■ ;. MUR R A Y*S HANDBOOKS. 1. THE CONTINENT, &c. HANDBOOK—TRAVEL TALK, in Eng¬ lish, French, German, and Italian. 3j. 6 d. HANDBOOK — NORTH GERMANY, Holland, Belgium, Prussia, and Rhine to Switzerland. Map. 10#. HANDBOOK — SOUTH GERMANY, Tyrol, Bavaria, Austria,Salsburo, Styria, Hungary, and Danube from Ui.m to Black Sea. Map. 1<>#. HANDBOOK — GERMAN, FLEMISH, and Dutch Schools of Painting. Illustrations. 2 vols. 24#. HANDBOOK—SWITZERLAND, ALPS of Savoy and Piedmont. Maps. i).i. KNAPSACK GUIDE TO SWITZER¬ LAND. Map and Plans. 5s. HANDBOOK — FRANCE, Normandy, Brittany, French Ali>s, Dauphine, Provence and Pyrenees. Maps. 10s. HANDBOOK—PARIS AND ITS En¬ virons. Map. 5s. HANDBOOK — SPAIN, Andalusia, Grenada, Valencia, Catalonia, Galucia, Madrid. Maps. 2 vols. 80s. HANDBOOK — PORTUGAL, Lisbon, &c. Map. 9 s. HANDBOOK — DENMARK, Norway, Sweden, and Iceland. Maps. 15s. KNAPSACK GUIDE TO NORWAY. Map. 5 s. HANDBOOK — RUSSIA, St. Peters¬ burg, Moscow, Finland, ). Under these cir¬ cumstances the traveller had better take bank notes that are current in the countrv he intends visiting. d. PASSPORTS: ENGLISH. XVil in London or in any other part of the United Kingdom, or on the recommendation of the mayor or chief magistrate of any corporate town in the United Kingdom, or of any magistrate or justice of the peace, physician, surgeon, solicitor, notary, or minister of religion, who shall certify, in writing produced by the applicant, that he is really the person he professes to be. Such recommendation must be addressed to “Her Majesty’s Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs, Passport-office, Downing-street, London,” and forwarded by post; and should be made in the following form, signed and sealed by the person giving the recommendation :— “ (Date of place and day of the month.) “ The undersigned, Mayor of Chief Magistrate of Magistrate for Justice of Peace for , recommends A.B. (Christian and surname to be ivritten at length), < a Bntish subject , 1 J J 1 a naturalized subject J for a passport to enable him{£ 2j n lo fc Continent}’ “comprmM, as the case may be, by his icife and children, with their tutor,named C.D. (Christian and surname to be written at length), f a ^ itish subject l J J ( a naturalized British subject I and governess, and maidservant (or servants) and man-servant (or servants ) IF 7 7 / a British subject (or subjects). 1 ime • I a naturalized British subject (or subjects'). “ Signature (Christian and surname to be ivritten at length). “ (Seal).” The word 11 Passport” must be written conspicuously on the envelope. If any person so recommended be a naturalized British subject, his certificate of naturalization, with his signature subscribed to the oath printed on the third page of his certificate, must be forwarded with the application for his passport. The passport so applied for will be transmitted by return of post, if possible, to the mayor, chief magistrate, magistrate, or justice of the peace, or other person, who may have given the recommendation, to be delivered by him to the person requiring it. The charge on the issue of each passport, whatever number of persons may be named in it, is 2s. ; and that sum must be forwarded with the application for the passport; and if the remittance be by Post-office order, such order is to be made payable to the “ Chief Clerk of the Foreign- office,” at the Post-office, Charing-cross.* If, however, a person recommended from the country for a passport * Any information or further explanations will be given by Messrs. Lee and Carter, West Strand, or by Messrs. JJorrell & Son, 15, Charing Cross, Passport Agents and Booksellers. d. passports: Austrian. xviii prefers it, he may obtain his passport at the Foreign-office on the day following the receipt of the application, and pay the charge on the passport being delivered to him; but in this case the words “Passport will be applied for at the Foreign-oflice ” must be added to the letter of recom¬ mendation. The form of application heretofore adopted by banking firms will con¬ tinue to be used by them. It is requisite that the bearer of every passport granted by the Foreign- office should sign his passport before he sends it to be vised at any foreign Mission or Consulate. The passport of a traveller ought to be countersigned (vise) by the Ministers or Consuls of the countries which he intends to visit—before leaving London. The great advantage of the Foreign Office passport is that the Ministers of Austria and Prussia will countersign it, which they will not do in the case of any other passport. A Foreign Office passport granted for one journey may be used for any subsequent journey, if countersigned afresh by the Ministers or Consuls of the countries which the bearer intends to visit. As a general rule, the utmost care should be taken of the passport. It should always be carried about the person, in readiness when called for; and, to preserve it from being worn out, which it is likely to be from friction in the pocket, and being thumbed by the horny fingers of so many police agents and gensdarmes at each successive vise, it is convenient to have it bound up in a pocket-booh* with blank leaves to receive signatures when the vacant space on the passport itself is covered. Travellers in Holland, France, Belgium, Switzerland, and Germany, are not much troubled about their passport; but it is useful to have one to show at the Post-office when asking for letters—the sight of it will procure admission to many foreign galleries and collections—and it is still indispensable in Austria, and the States belonging to her. The different members of a family can have their names included in one passport, but friends travelling together had better provide themselves with distinct passports. Male servants should also have separate pass¬ ports, distinct from their masters’. This, however, adds something to the expense of having the passports vise , especially in Italy. N.B.—The signature which the bearer of a passport must attach to it when it is delivered to him ought to be written as clearly and distinctly as possible, that it may be easily read. Austrian Passport. The Austrian ambassador in London will countersign a passport issued by the British Secretary of State. The Austrian signature is esseritial for the traveller bound to any part of the Austrian dominions , or to Italy. It is prudent to obtain it, if not * Such pocket-books are made by Lee, 410, West Strand, and kept in readiness bv him : also by Dorr ill A Son, 15, Charing Cross , Coblenz. . 2 Mayence. 2~ Frankfurt (Railway) . . If Basle (Railway) .... 8^ 4-3 o <1 E. —London to Trieste, by Berlin, Leipzig, Dresden, Prague, and Vienna. London to Ostend by Dover Aix-la-Chapelle Ruhrort. Minden . Hanover Magdeburg Berlin Dresden Prague Vienna Trieste c3 O '<3 Hours. 8 7 3i 5f 3i 3* 54 5 m 22 Another Route is, London to Hamburg by steamer ... 52 [Magdeburg ) £ . . . . 7f Berlin >-g . . . . 7 Dresden J P3 . . . . 5f - 71 * Berlin is connected with Vienna by 2 lines of railway. The one by Dresden and Prague, as above, 24f hrs. The other takes 23f hrs., viz.— Breslau.10| Ratibor.4 Vienna.9 -23* F.—London to Munich, Salzburg, and Vienna. Hours in Hays of Travelling. Sojourn. To Frankfurt . . . . M~est ( railwa y)> and thence down the Danube Berlin by Cologne and Min den. —- by Rotterdam, Oberhausen, and Minden - by Hamburg. Brussels by Calais or Ostend. Cologne via Calais, or Ostend, or Rotterdam Copenhagen. Como by Bale and St. Gothard. Cracow by Breslau (railway) ....... Dresden by Rotterdam, Oberhausen, and Leipsig . Florence by Paris, Mt. Cenis, and Turin .... Frankfurt-on-the-Main by Cologne ..... Geneva by Paris and Macon. - by Neuchatel. Hanover by Cologne or Rotterdam. -- by Hamburg. Interlachen by Bale and Berne ...... Leipsic by Cologne or Rotterdam. Leghorn by Marseilles. Lyons by Paris. Madrid by Paris and Bayonne (railway) .... Marseilles by Paris and Lyons ( Exp. railway) Milan by Macon, Geneva, and Mount Cenis .... -by Zurich and the Spliigen . . .... Munich by Frankfurt, Wurtzburg, and Augsburg . - by Paris, Strasburg, and Stuttgart .... Naples by Marseilles ........ Paris by Folkestone and Boulogne. Paris by Brighton, Dieppe, and Rouen. Pest by Dresden and Vienna (railway). Rome by Marseilles. Stockholm.. Strasburg by Paris. St. Petersburg by Berlin and Dunabourg .... --by Liibeck. Trieste by Dresden and Vienna (4 days and nights) Turin by Paris, and Mont Cenis (44 hours) .... Venice by Dresden, Vienna, and Trieste * .... ■-by Munich and the Tyrol ...... -by Mont Cenis, Turin, and Milan .... -— by Zurich, the Spliigen, and Milan .... 9 15 hours • 15 33 • 15 33 • 21 33 • 24 33 • 44 » • 28 33 \ 6 days / 12 33 • 36 hours • 30 33 • 61 JJ • 14 33 • 20 33 2-1 days • 60 hours • 3 days 40 to 42 hours • 72 33 30 to 36 33 • 26 33 • 23 33 26 to 27 33 • 48 33 • 44 33 • 36 » 72 to 82 33 • 20 33 • 52 26 to 28 33 • days • 91 “ 2 33 • 45 hours 9 35 33 9 41 days 0 10 hours 9 12 33 9 70 • • 9 3f days 4 or 5 „ 9 22 hours • 5 days 0 6 or 7 „ • 82 hours 0 2 * days j 0 33 • 5 33 0 33 • 2 f }>' xxxiv 71 . SKELETON TOURS. Vienna by Frankfurt and Ratisbon, and thence down the Danube . -by Cologne, Magdeburg, and Dresden (railway) —;-by Paris, Strasburg, Munich, Salzburg [Exp. 50.] Warsaw by Preslau (railway) ....... 97 hours 60 „ 60 „ 3^ days Hours. Paris to Cologne.1J ± to Berlin.24 to Milan.39 to Venice.51 to Florence.56 to Turin ..35 Hours. -to Genoa.40 •-to Kbnigsberg .... 43 -to St. Petersburg—Road to Berlin and Brief Post . . 140^ Berlin to Vienna.24£ -to St. Petersburg (Post) 1 lo *** Those among the above routes which belong to Southern Germany are described in the second Volume of the Handbook. The Swiss routes will be found in the Handbook for Switzerland. ( XXXV ) o. Table A. Various Foreign Measures of Length, reduced to English Measure. English mile. Eng. m. Furl. Yards. 1 Dutch mile . . = 3*634= 3 5 16 or 19* =1° 1 Belgian post . = 4*66 = 4 4 61 14* 83=1° 1 Germ. Geogr. mile= 4*6 - 4 4 176 15* =1° 1 Prussian mile . = 4*68 = 4 5 96 14*77=1° 1 Saxon mile . . = 4-66 = • 4 5 61 14*83=1° 1 Hanoverian mile = 4*6 = 4 4 176 15* =1° 1 m. Hesse Darmst. = 4-66 =» 4 5 61 14*83=1° The Prussian or Rhineland foot, which is divided into 12 inches = 12*356 English inches, or 0*31382 metre. The Prussian ell is 25§ Prussian inches = 26*256 English inches, or 0*6669 metre. The ruthe is 12 Prussian or Rhine¬ land feet = 4*118 English yards. A Prussian mile is 2000 ruthen = 7*532 kilometres. The Dresden foot = 11*24 English inches, or 14 Dresden feet = 13 English feet, nearly. 1 Dresden ell = 2 Dresden feet = 1 ft. 10| inch. English, nearly. 21 Dresden ells =13 English yards. 1 Dresden ruthe = 8 Dresden ells = 4*996 English yards. There are two kinds of feet generally used in Holland, viz. the Amsterdam foot and the Rhineland foot. The Amsterdam foot is divided into 11 inches, and each inch is divided into quarters and eighths. This foot = 11*147 English inches, or 0*283133 metres. The value of the Rhineland foot is given above. There are three ells used in Holland, viz. the ell of Amsterdam = 27*0797 English inches; the ell of the Hague = 27*333 English inches; and the ell of Brabant =27*585 English inches. In Belgium, since 1820, the French decimal system, founded on the metre, is generally used. 1 metre = 39*37079 English inches; 1 kilometre = 1093*6331 English yards; 1 myriametre = 6 miles 5 furlongs 176 yards, English measure 1610 metres = 1 English mile. ( xxxvi ) Table B. English Money reduced to an equivalent Value in the 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 English Money. Hamburg, l United States. Germany. Prussia. 2 £. s. d. Mar. Sch. Dols. Cts. Th. S. Gr. 0 0 1 0 B 0 02 0 0 0 2 0 2f 0 04 0 Is 0 0 3 0 3f 0 06 0 n 0 0 4 0 4| 0 08 0 3 § 0 0 5 0 5f 0 10 0 h 5. 0 0 6 0 61 0 12 0 5 0 0 7 0 8 0 14 0 H 0 0 8 0 0 16 0 H 0 0 9 0 102 0 18 0 7 f 0 0 10 0 Ilf 0 20 0 8f 10. 0 0 11 0 124 0 . 22 0 0 1 0 0 13* 0 24 0 10 0 2 0 1 Hf 0 49 0 20 0 3 0 2 4 0 73 1 0 0 4 0 3 6f 0 97 1 10 15. 0 5 0 4 4 1 21 1 20 0 6 0 5 2 f 1 46 2 0 0 7 0 6 o 1 1 70 2' 10 0 8 0 6 13f 1 94 2 20 0 9 0 7 Hf 2 18 3 0 20. 0 10 0 8 9} 2 43 3 10 0 11 0 9 6, 6 2 67 3 20 0 12 0 10 2 91 4 0 0 13 0 11 2f 3 16 4 10 .. 0 14 0 12 0 3 40 4 20 25. 0 15 0 12 13f 3 64 5 0 0 16 0 13 Hf 3 88 5 10 0 17 0 14 9 7 4 13 5 20 0 18 0 15 9f 4 37 6 0 0 19 0 16 44 4 61 6 10 30. 1 0 0 17 2f 4 86 6 20 2 0 0 34 4| 9 71 13 10 3 0 0 51 6f 14 57 20 0 4 0 0 68 4 19 42 26 20 5 0 0 85 nf 24 28 33 10 35. 6 0 0 102 13* 29 13 40 0 7 0 0 120 0 33 99 46 20 8 0 0 137 24 38 84 53 10 9 0 0 154 44 43 70 60 0 10 0 0 171 64 48 56 66 20 40. 20 o o 342 13| 97 11 133 10 30 0 0 514 7 44 145 67 200 0 40 0 0 685 Ilf 194 22 266 20 50 0 0 857 2 f 242 78 333 10 1 16 Hamburg Shillings =r to 1 Marc. 2 30 Silver Groschen = to 1 Thaler. 3 60 Kreutzers = to 1 Florin. 4 20 Stivers = to 1 Guilder. 5 100 Venetian Centi = to 1 Lira. ( xxxvii ) Table B. Money of various States on the Continent of Europe. Austria.s Frankfort.. 3 Bavaria. Holland. 4 Venetian Lombardy.5 France.6 Belgium. Switzerland. FI. Kr. FI. Kr. Gui. Stiv. Lira. Cts. Fr. Cts. 0 91 " cy 0 3 0 1 0 12 f 0 10 T2 . 0 5 0 6 0 2 0 25 0 23tS . 0 7 1 0 9 0 3 0 37± 0 31t 3 2 0 10 0 12 0 4 0 50 0 41* ... 5 0 12 | 0 15 0 5 0 62± 0 52* 0 15 0 18 0 6 0 75 0 62* 0 17| 0 21 0 7 0 87| 0 72* 0 20 0 24 0 8 1 0 0 83* 0 224 0 27 0 9 1 12 | 0 93?., ....10 0 25 0 30 0 10 1 25 1 4* 0 274 0 33 0 11 1 37 b 1 14* 0 30 0 36 0 12 1 50~ 1 25 1 0 1 12 1 4 3 0 2 50 1 30 1 48 1 16 4 50 3 75 ....15 2 0 2 24 2 8 6 0 5 0 2 30 3 0 3 0 7 50 6 25 3 0 3 36 3 12 9 0 7 50 3 30 4 12 4 4 10 50 8 75 4 0 4 48 4 16 12 0 10 0 ....20 4 30 5 24 5 8 13 50 11 25 5 0 6 0 6 0 15 0 12 50 5 30 6 36 6 12 16 50 13 75 6 0 7 12 7 4 18 0 15 0 6 30 7 48 7 16 19 50 16 25 ....25 ' 7 0 8 24 8 8 21 0 17 50 7 30 9 0 9 0 22 50 18 75 8 0 9 . 36 9 12 24 0 20 0 8 30 10 12 10 4 25 50 21 25 9 0 10 48 10 16 27 0 22 50 ....30 9 30 11 24 11 8 28 50 23 75 10 0 12 0 12 0 30 0 25 0 20 0 24 0 24 0 60 0 50 0 30 0 36 0 36 0 90 0 75 0 40 0 48 0 48 0 120 0 100 0 ....35 50 0 60 0 60 0 150 0 125 0 60 0 72 0 72 0 180 0 150 0 70 0 84 0 84 0 210 0 175 0 80 0 96 0 96 0 240 0 200 0 90 0 108 0 108 0 270 0 225 0 ....40 100 0 120 0 120 0 300 0 250 0 200 0 240 0 240 0 600 0 500 0 300 0 360 0 360 0 900 0 750 0 400 0 480 0 480 0 1200 0 1000 0 500 0 600 0 600 0 1500 0 1250 0 6 100 French Centimes = to 1 Franc. If more be received for a pound sterling than is expressed on this scale, it will be so much gain by the exchange ; if less, it will be so much loss. (This is not for the use of merchants, but travellers.) [N.G.] C 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 ( xxxviii ) Table C. PRUSSIAN MONEY, Reduced to its Value at par in the Money of Prussian Dollars courant of 30 Silver Groschen. Frankfort, Nassau, Bavaria, $c. Florins of 60 Kreutzers. France and Switzerland. Francs containing 100 Centimes, United States. England. Pound Sterling of 20 Shillings, or 240 Pence. Th. G. FI. Kr. Fr. C. Dols. Cts. £ s. d. — 1 — —r 12 — 02 0 0 1 * — 2 -- 7 — 25 -- 05 0 0 2 \ — 3 — lot — 37 — 07 0 0 3* — 4 — 14 — 49 — 09 0 0 4 i — 5 — 17-1 — 62 — 12 0 0 5 § — 6 — 21 — 74 — 14 0 0 7 — 7 — 24i — 87 — 16 0 0 — 8 — 28 — 99 — 19 0 0 9* — 9 — 31| 1 11 — 21 0 0 10 ± — 10 — 35 1 23 — 23 0 0 n § — 20 1 10 2 46 — 48 0 1 n 4 1 - 1 45 3 69 . - 71 0 2 li 2 — 3 30 7 39 1 41 0 5 10 3 — 5 15 11 8 2 12 0 8 9 4 — 7 — 14 78 2 83 0 11 8 5 — 8 45 18 47 3 54 0 14 7 6 — 10 30 22 17 4 25 0 17 6 7 — 12 15 25 86 4 96 1 0 5 8 — 14 — 29 55 5 67 1 3 4 9 — 15 45 33 25 6 38 1 6 3 10 i 17 30 36 94 7 08 1 9 2 20 — 35 — 73 88 14 16 2 18 4 30 — 52 30 110 82 21 24 4 7 6 40 | - 70 — 147 76 28 32 5 16 8 50 — 87 30 184 71 35 40 7 5 10 60 _ 105 _ 221 65 42 48 8 15 0 70 — 122 30 268 59 49 57 10 4 2 80 — 140 — 295 53 56 55 11 13 4 90 — 157 30 332 47 63 73 13 2 6 o o tH | 175 — 369 41 70 CO 14 11 8 ( xxxix ) Table D. MONEY OF NASSAU, FRANKFURT, BADEN, WURTEMBERG, BAVARIA, &c. FLORINS, reduced to the Value at par of the Money of Florins (an pied de 24 fl.) of 60 Ereutzers. France. Francs of 100 Centimes. United States. Dollars of 100 Cents. North Germany. Prussia. Dollars courant of 30 Silver Groschen. England. Founds Sterling of 20 Shillings or 240 Pence. FI. Kr. Fr. C. Dols. Cts. T. Gr. s. d. — 1 — 4 — 01 -- -,S 0 0 0 * — 2 — 7 — 01 — -, 6 0 0 Of — 3 — 11 — 02 — -,9 0 0 1 — 4 — 14 — 03 _ 1,1 0 0 1 ] — 5 — 18 — 03 — 1,4 0 0 If — 6 — 22 — 04 — 1,7 0 0 2 — 7 — 25 — 05 — 2 ,- 0 0 2 ^ — 8 — 29 — 05 — 2,3 0 0 2 J — 9 32 — 06 — 2,6 0 0 3 — 10 — 36 — 07 — 2,9 0 0 3 3 — 20 — 72 — 13 — 5,7 0 0 6 § — 30 i 8 — 20 — 8,6 0 0 10 — 40 i 44 — 27 — 11,4 0 1 H — 50 i 80 — 33 — 14,3 0 1 n 1 _ _ 2 15 _ 40 _ 17,1 0 1 8 2 — 4 31 — 81 1 4,3 0 3 4 3 — 6 46 1 21 1 21,4 0 5 0 4 — 8 62 1 62 2 8,6 0 6 8 5 — 10 77 2 02 2 25,7 0 8 4 6 — 12 93 2 43 3 12,9 0 10 0 7 — 15 8 2 83 4 — 0 11 8 8 — 17 24 3 24 4 17,1 0 13 4 9 — 19 39 3 64 5 4,3 0 15 0 10 — 21 55 4 04 5 21,4 0 16 8 20 — 43 10 8 10 11 12,9 1 13 4 30 — 64 65 12 14 17 4,3 2 10 0 40 — 86 20 16 19 22 25,7 3 6 8 50 — 107 74 20 23 28 17,1 4 3 4 60 — 129 29 24 28 34 8,6 5 0 0 70 — 150 84 28 32 40 — 5 16 8 80 — 172 39 32 37 45 21,4 6 13 4 90 — 193 94 36 42 51 12,9 7 10 0 100 215 49 40 46 57 4,3 8 6 8 LIST OF PLANS. Amsterdam.. Antwerp. Brussels. Battle of Waterloo .... Liege. Bonn. Coblenz. Treves. Environs of Treves. Hamburg. Berlin. .Dresden. New Picture Gallery, Dresden . Frankfurt a. M. Castle of Heidelberg. Travelling Clue Map of Germany PAGE to face 49 „ 141 „ 158 . . 167 . 178, 179 . . 266 . . 278 . . 310 . . 311 to face 332 „ 345 „ 468 . . 474 to face 523 . . 561 . at end. A HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS ON THE CONTINENT. SECTION I. HOLLAND, or THE NETHERLANDS. Introductory Information. 1. Passports .— 2. Money .— 3. Custom-house .— 4. Travelling in Holland: Railroads, Posting , Diligences , Roads , Maps. — 5. Travelling by Water , Trekschuiten. — 6 . Drinking Water .— 7 . Inns. —8 . General View of Holland. — 9. Dykes. — 10. Canals, —11. Polders, Turbaries , and Peat. —12. Dunes. —13. Gat'dens and Summer¬ houses. — 14. Dutch School of Painting ; Picture Galleries in Holland. —15. Some Peculiarities in Dutch Manners. — 1G. Music , Organs .— 17. Agriculture. Routes. (In the Table of Contents throughout this hook the names of places are printed in italics only in those Routes where they are described .) route page | 1. London to Rotterdam .... 24 2. Rotterdam to Amsterdam, by Delft , the Hague , Leiden , and Haarlem—Rail (ITollandsche- Spoorweg) .28 3. Amsterdam to Broek, and the Great North Holland Sh ip Canal. Amsterdam to Saardam . . 60 4. Haarlem to the Helder, by Alk- maar and Het Nieuwe Diep, and back to Amsterdam . . 64 5. Amsterdam or Rotterdam, by Utrecht and Arnhem (Railway), to Nijmegen .70 6. Amsterdam or Rotterdam, by Utrecht and Arnersfoort , to Zwolle and Kampen. Rail . 74 7. Amsterdam to Enkliuizen and Harlingen (Steamer), Leeu- vearden (Rail), Groningen , A ssen, Meppel , and Zwolle (Diligence); visit to the Pauper Colonies of Frederik- soord .75 :OIJTE page . Groningen to Embden and Leer 78 . Arnhem to Zutphen, Deventer, and Zwolle.79 0. Rotterdam (by Gouda) or Am¬ sterdam to Utrecht, Arn¬ hem, Cologne, and Ger¬ many .80 1. Tiie Rhine in Holland (A) 82 (a) Rotterdam to Nijmegen by the Waal branch . . 82 (1>) Rotterdam to Arnhem by the Lek branch . . . 85 12. Rotterdam to Antwerp, by Breda and Moerdijk (Rail¬ way) (Boisle Due, Tilburg) or by Steamer, passing Ber- gen-op-Zoom .86 13. Boxtel to Eindhoven, Venlo, Roennond, and Maestrecht. 90 N.B.—The Rhine from Nijmegen to Cologne and ATayence is described under Germany. 1. Passports. It is well for an Englishmen to be provided with a Foreign Office passport, but passports arc not required from British subjects travelling in Holland. [n. G.] li 2 2. MONEY.— 3. CUSTOM-HOUSE.— 4. TRAVELLING. Sect. I. 2. Money. Accounts are kept in guilders and cents. The guilder, or Dutch florin, is worth Is. 8c?. English. It is divided into 20 stuiyers, and into 100 cents: 1 stuiver = 5 cents, is worth 1 penny English. Silver Coins. The guilder (or Dutch florin) = Germ, florin guilder 4 guilder (called Vijfjes or Quartjes) guilder or dubbeltje Stuiver or Cents. : 100 : 50 : 25 i guilder Rixdollar (Rijksdaalder) p (Munt-Biljet (Mint-notes) of 10, ,< Bank-Biljet (Bank-notes) of 25, 50. Stuivers. = 20 = = 10 = 10 = 5 = 250 and 100 guilders. 5 1 50 s. 1 0 0 0 4 d. 8 5 2 1 2 Money. guilders. 40, 60, 100, 200, 300, 500, and 1000 By the above table it will be seen that, at par, the sovereign is worth 12 guilders ; the value of gold, however, being depreciated in Holland, the average exchange is not more than 11 guilders 60 cents. The difference between cents and centimes should be borne in mind. Cent, a Dutch and Belgian coin, is the of a guilder, or of Is. 8 d. Centime, a French coin, is the part of a franc, or of 10c?. The cent is equal to 2 centimes, and is worth 1 of a penny English. The guilder is worth 2 French francs 5 sous, and is the same as the German florin (24 to the mark of silver). Travellers should provide themselves with Dutch money at Rotterdam, or at the first town of Holland they enter, as French coins arc not current here as they are in Belgium. The new Dutch coins are current also in Belgium, and up the Rhine as far as Cologne. 3. Custom-house. The Dutch custom-house officers are usually civil, and by no means trouble¬ some in examining the baggage of persons not travelling with merchandise. A small fee here, as elsewhere, to the subordinate officer may expedite and tend to lighten the search in the traveller’s portmanteau, but civility and a readiness to lay open the baggage is better still. As a general rule in this and other countries of the continent, persons travelling in their own carriage are subjected to very little inconvenience from the custom-house officers. § 4. Travelling in Holland—Railroads, Diligences, Roads, and Maps. The English and French languages are generally understood at the best inns and by the inhabitants of the principal Dutch towns. Let the stranger, how¬ ever, be on his guard against the voluntary guides and hotel-touters who infest railway stations, steamboat wharves, &c. They are, for the most part, consum¬ mate blackguards (many are Jews), and will at least fleece the traveller, if they do not lead him into disreputable places. The Inns v:hich they recommend should be carefully avoided. Railroads (Ijzeren-spoorweg) arc opened from Amsterdam to Haarlem, the Hague, arid Rotterdam; Amsterdam to Rotterdam by Gouda and Arnhem to Utrecht; Alkmaarto theHelder; Amsterdam to Utrecht and to Arnhem ; thence to Germany cither rid Emmerich and Oberhausen to Hanover, or by Scvenaar and Cleves to Cologne ; Rotterdam by steamer to Mocrdyk, and thence by rail to the Belgian frontier, to Antwerp and Breda. From Breda to Tilburg, Boxtol, and Bcrgen-op-Zoom. From Arnhem to Zutphen and Deventer, thence (1866) to Zwolle; from Harlingen to Leeuwarden, thence (1866) to Groningen, Leer, and Zwolle : Ilasselt to Roermonde and Macstricht. The Dutch railways are generally well managed, and the station-houses well arranged. 2nd-class Holland. 4, 5. TRAVELLING IN HOLLAND. 3 carriages are"protected from the weather. Vigilantes (cabs) and omnibuses ply to and from the stations. Travellers, however, must he on their guard against Dutch cabmen, who generally make an extortionate demand on foreign fares : they should he made to produce their tariff ( tarief ), which they often remove from sight when strangers hire their cabs. The porters on the Dutch railways are not by law entitled to any gratuity. On the Dutch railways only 40 lbs. of luggage allowed; all above this must be paid for. The lines from Rotterdam to Amsterdam deserve the attention of the engineer, from the number of canals which they have to cross, which presented considerable difficulties, overcome by ingenious expedients, such as rolling and swing bridges. A large part of the lines is founded on piles, often under water, and the road¬ way is laid on faggots bound together by stakes and wattles. Posting, —The posting regulations introduced into Holland by the French have been abolished, owing to’the increased facilities of railway travelling. Job carriages and horses can be hired in the large towns, as in England, but in such cases, as there are no government regulations, a bargain must be struck before¬ hand, according to the distance. The charge per post for 2 horses and driver ought not to exceed 2 guilders. The Dutch post is somewhat less than 5 English miles. The Dutch league (ure gaans), or the distance a man will walk in an hour, is 5555 metres = 3-*- English miles. Diligences. —On all the great roads, which have no competing railroad, nume¬ rous diligences run several times a-day. They are very precise in the time of starting. They belong to private individuals or companies licensed by Government. The best are those of Van Gend and Loos; they are roomy and convenient, and travel at the rate of about G miles an hour. If more persons apply for places than can be accommodated in the coach, an additional car¬ riage, or “ by-chaise,” is prepared, by which the passenger may proceed at the same rate of fare as hy the main diligence. A job carriage (glaswagen) with 2 horses may be hired for 14 guilders per diem. The average expense of a hired carriage and horses is about one-fourth less than in England. Roads. —The high roads .connecting the principal towns and villages of N. and S. Holland are generally paved with bricks, and are excellent. The cross roads consist merely of loose sand, and are wretchedly bad, and in wet weather barely passable. There are no stones in a large part of Holland; but the want of stones is supplied by a small and tough kind of brick called klinker, which, after the foundation of the road is levelled, are placed edgewise close together, and the interstices filled with sand, so as to form a hard, smooth, and level highway, very pleasant to travel over. The average cost of making such a road is about 17,000 guild., more than 1400/., per English mile. As all heavy goods are conveyed by water or rail, the wear and tear on the roads, traversed almost entirely by light carriages, is not very great. In many parts the roads run on the tops of the dykes; and, as there are no parapets or railings, there is at least the appearance of danger, and accidents sometimes happen. The tolls are very high, sometimes equalling in one stage the expense of one post-horse. A carriage with 4 wheels and 2 horses pays from 6 to 8 stivers at each turnpike; and a toll generally occurs every 3 miles English. The passage money for crossing ferries is also high. The best English Map of Holland and Belgium is that published by Mr. John Arrowsmith. 5. Travelling by Water—Trekschuiten. The canals of Holland are as numerous as roads in other countries, and afford the most abundant means of conveyance in every direction. B 2 4 5. TRAVELLING BY WATER—TREKSCHUITEN. Sect. I. Barges, called Trekschuiten (drag-boats), navigate the canals, and convey passengers and goods: they are nearly filled by a long low cabin, divided by a partition into two parts; the fore-cabin, called mini, appropriated to servants and common people; and the after-cabin, or roef ', set apart for the better classes, and a little more expensive; it is smaller, and will contain 8 or 10 per¬ sons. The roef has a small open space at the stern, where you can stand upright and breathe the air beside the steersman. It is generally fitted up with neatness, and may be engaged by a party exclusively for their own use. The barge is more commodious for night travelling and less fatiguing than the diligence, and the traveller may enjoy a comfortable sleep, provided the gnats permit. It must, however, be understood that Dutch people of any station rarely resort to the trekschuit. The towing-horse is ridden by a lad (hot jagertje), who receives a few cents at each stage, and is well paid with a stiver. It is amusing to observe how quickly and neatly he passes the numerous bridges, disengaging the towing-rope, and fastening it again, without impeding the progress of the vessel. Whenever the barge approaches another coming in a contrary direction, the boatmen ex¬ change the two monosyllables “ huy” and “ vull,” indicating which is to go to the right and which to the left, and the one drops his rope for the other to pass over. The advantages of the trekschuit are principally its cheapness. The usual cost of travelling by it is about a stiver a mile. Its disadvantages are—1st, That it rarely travels faster than 4 miles an hour; 2ndly, Though the banks of the canal are often enlivened by gardens and villas, yet it sometimes happens that they are so high as to shut out all view, which is very tiresome and monotonous; 3rdly, The annoyance of tobacco smoke and bad smells from the water in hot weather; and 4thly, The trekschuit almost invariably stops on the outside of the town to which it is bound, and does not enter it: hence you have sometimes to walk more than a mile to reach an inn, and are compelled to intrust your luggage to porters, who, though they do not deserve the character of thieves, which Mrs. Starke bestowed on them, are at least exorbitant in their charges; so that you are compelled to pay sometimes twice as much for the carriage of a portmanteau and bag into a town as for the whole passage by the boat. Passengers proceeding to Germany via Rotterdam should not be induced by the cheapness of the fare to take through tickets by the Rhine steamers, as they leave early in the morning, so that passengers will probably have to wait a whole day at Rotterdam. On board the steamers of the Netherlands’ Company passengers are not allowed to sleep at night, but must go on shore (unless they have hired a private cabin), so that the expense at the journey’s end is as great as if they had travelled by rail. It is seldom, however, that the London steamers arrive in the summer too late for the express train to Germany (12*15), so that passengers can, if they wish, proceed at once without entering a Dutch hotel, and arrive at Bonn the same evening. Here commences that portion of the Rhine which ought not to be missed; between Bonn and Rotterdam the river journey is generally considered wearisome and monotonous. The railways now established and extending through Holland will gradually divert much of the traffic from the old channel of the slow canal and trekschuit; still, notwithstanding all the drawbacks, for the mere novelty of the thing, no one should visit Holland without making trial of this, the national con¬ veyance. On a fine day it is a very agreeable mode of travelling. Excepting on the lines where railways are opened, the communication is kept up constantly between all the great towns of Holland and the intervening places by treksehuits. A boat sets out several times a day, starting with the greatest punctuality; and if a passenger be not on board at the stroke of the clock, he runs a risk of losing his passage. Holland. G. WATER. —7. INNS.—8. GENERAL VIEW. o 6. Drinking Water . In the provinces of the Netherlands bordering on the sea the water is generally very bad, not drinkable; and strangers should be careful to avoid it altogether except externally, or they may suffer from bowel complaints, and he delayed on their journey. In many parts good drinking water is brought in large stone bot¬ tles from Utrechtso that Utrecht water must he asked for at inns. As a sub¬ stitute for spring water, the effervescent waters of Seltzer, Geilnau, and Fachin- gen, all coming from the Brunnen of Nassau, are much drunk at meals; a large bottle costs about 5 d. A very agreeable beverage is formed by mixing these waters with Rhenish or Moselle wine and sugar: some consider red Bordeaux wine, or a little lemon-juice and sugar, added to the Seltzer water, a more palat¬ able drink. 7. Inns—Cafes. Holland is an expensive country to live in; the florin (guilder) nere does not go much further than the franc in Belgium or France ; the wages of labour and taxes are very high; the iims are consequently nearly as dear as in England. Notwithstanding this, they are, on the whole, inferior to those of most other countries of Western Europe. Dutch inns and beds are, however, generally clean. Charges. —A bed-room, which may also be used as a sitting-room, costs, on an average, from 1 to 3 guilders; dinner at the table-d’hote, If to 2 guilders; ditto in private, 2 to 3 guilders; breakfast with tea or coffee, 60 cents. A German traveller rates them thus: bed, 1 guilder; breakfast, 10 to 15 stivers; tea, ditto; dinner, with wine, 2 guilders. The dinner-hour, at tables-d’hote, is usually 4 o’clock. The waiter is called Jan throughout Holland. From f to f a guilder is charged in the bills for the servants daily; but the cleaning of shoes and clothes is done by commissionaires , who also serve as laquais do place. They are amply paid with If or 2 guilders for a whole day’s services, and with 1 guilder for f a day. The Porter (Kruijer), who carries luggage from the coach or railway office to the inn, or vice versa, is well paid with 10 stivers. Cafe's in Holland are not resorted to by ladies. If you want an ice you must repair to the confectioner, where they are good and moderate. 8. A GENERAL VlEW OF HOLLAND. There is not, perhaps, a country in Europe which will more surprise an in¬ telligent traveller than Holland. Although so near to our coasts, and so easily accessible, it is too often passed over by the English in their haste to reach the picturesque scenes of the Bhine and Switzerland. The attractions of Holland are certainly of a different kind; but they are of a character so entirely peculiar, that, whether a traveller visit this country at the outset or termination of his tour, he will be equally sure to find in it what he has not seen before. The routes from Rotterdam to Amsterdam, and thence to Cologne, described in the following pages, may he fully explored in a week or ten days ; and there are few roads in Europe which in so small a space have so many curiosities to show, and upon which lie so many cities, great in commerce and renowned in history. To a stranger Holland appears hardly endurable as a country to reside in, but for a journey of a week the universal flatness and the monotony of scenery are not tiresome. The aspect of the country is too strange to fatigue, and, indeed, in sunny weather, is very fertile in picturesque effects. A large part of Holland is a delta, formed of the alluvium deposited by the 0 8. GENERAL VIEW OF HOLLAND. Sect. T. Poll in c and other rivers, in tlie same manner as the Delta of Egypt has "been formed by the Nile. The greater portion of it has been perseveringly rescued from the water, to whose dominion it may almost be said to belong, by the con¬ tinual efforts and ingenuity of man, and in a long scries of years. Much of it is mud driven up by the sea, in return for what it carries away from some parts of the coast. Were human agency and care removed but for 6 months, the waves would, without doubt, regain their ancient dominion—so much of the land lies below the level of the sea; and an extensive tract of the country would he reduced to the state of those vast wastes, composed of sand and mud-banks, quite unfit for human habitation, which now lie at the mouths of the Nile and Mississippi. And yet these fields, gained with such difficulty, and preserved by constant watchfulness, from the waters, have been, in more instances than one, inundated by then- owners during their contests with foreign foes; and Dutch patriotism has not hesitated to subject the land to temporary ruin in the desire of preserving liberty. The cutting of the dykes, and opening of the sluice-gates, which was resorted to in order to free Holland from Spanish tyranny, was a desperate resource, and in itself a national calamity, entailing beggary for some years upon a large portion of the population, owing to the length of time and the very great expense which a second recovery of the land from the sea required. This glorious sacrifice, however, served to show that it needs not the mountains of Switzerland nor the fastnesses of Tyrol to enable a brave people to defend their native land. Holland may be considered in many respects as the most wonderful country, pei'haps, under the sun : it is certainly unlike every other. What elsewhere would be considered as impossible has here been carried into effect, and incon¬ gruities have been rendered consistent. u The house built upon the sand” may here be seen standing ; neither Amsterdam nor Rotterdam has any better foun¬ dation than sand, into which piles are driven through many feet of superincum¬ bent bog earth ; and to form a correct idea of these and other wonderful cities and towns standing on the morass, one must not forget the millions of solid beams hidden under ground which support them. We speak contemptuously of any¬ thing Avhich is held together by straws, yet a long line of coast of several pro¬ vinces is consolidated by no other means than a few reeds intermixed with straw wisps, or woven into mats. Without this frail but effectual support, the fickle dunes, or sand-hills, would be driven about into the interior, and would over¬ whelm whole districts of cultivated land. In Holland the laws of nature seem to be reversed; the sea is higher than the land; the lowest ground in the country is 24 feet below high-water mark, and, when the tide is driven high by the wind, 30 feet! In no other country do the keels of the ships float above the chimneys of the houses, and nowhere else does the frog, crqaking from among the bul¬ rushes, look down upon the swallow on the house-top. Where rivers take their course, it is not in beds of their own choosing; they are compelled to pass through canals, and are confined within fixed bounds by the stupendous mounds imposed on them by human art, which has also succeeded in overcoming the everywhere else resistless impetuosity of the ocean : here, and nowhere else, does the sea appear to have half obeyed the command, “ Thus far shalt thou go, and no farther.” In a very extensive district the canals are brimful of water, which can hardly stir, and, when in motion, flows with a current barely perceptible. There is not a stone or pebble to be found, and there are no hills, save such as are raised by the winds; unless, indeed, we take into consideration those vast artificial moun¬ tains of granite, which have been brought at enormous expense from Norway and Sweden, and sunk under water to serve as barriers to the sea. Excepting the eastern provinces, the parks of Haarlem and the Hague, and the avenues leading from one city to another, the land does not produce much wood; but then entire Norwegian forests have been buried beneath the mud in the shape of Holland. 8. GENERAL VIEW OF HOLLAND. 7 piles. “ The total of the hydraulic works between the Dollart and the Schelde hare been estimated by a competent judge to have cost 300,000,OOOL sterling and form in so small a country a most astonishing monument of human industry?' — Telford. The constant attention which a Dutchman has been obliged to give to main¬ taining in perfect order the great works on which his safety depends, and the artificial nature of the country itself which he has formed for his residence and support, has given a formal and methodical direction to his tastes in cases where Nature would have been better left to herself. Thus trees are often found grow¬ ing, not in the natural way, but as they have been arranged by the plummet and line, in rank and file in straight rows and avenues. Their branches are not allowed to spread abroad as nature intended, but are cut and clipped till they are transformed into green walls, or are even trained into more grotesque shapes. By way of improving still further upon nature, the trunks and lower branches are sometimes painted over with bright colours in North Holland, partly for the sake of cleanliness, partly to preserve them from insects. The Dutchman may be said to have made even the wind his slave. It might be supposed that the universal flatness, and the absence of those elevations which afford shelter to other countries, would leave this at the mercy of every blast that blows, to sweep everything before it. So far is this from being the case, that not a breath of air is allowed to pass without paying toll, as it were, by turning a windmill. These machines are so numerous, that they may be said to be never out of sight in a Dutch landscape. In the suburbs of great cities they are congregated like armies of giants spreading out their broad arms, as if to protect the streets and houses which they overlook. With us they are rarely used except to grind corn: in Holland they are employed almost as variously as the steam-engine; they saw timber, crush rape-seeds for oil, grind snuff, beat hemp, &c.; but the principal service which they perform is in draining the land; and here the Dutch have most ingeniously set the wind to counteract the water. At least one half of the windmills have water-wheels attached to them, which act as pumps, and, by constantly raising the water into the canals, alone keep the low land dry and fit for cultivation and the habitation of man. As, however, experience has shown that a first-rate mill is advantageously applied to raise water only 1 ell (=3*28 ft.) at once, 3 or 4 are often planted in a row on stages one above the other, each pumping up the water to the stage above it. They are constructed of much larger dimensions than with us: a single sail is often 120 feet long, and the usual length is 80 feet. There arc said to be 9000 windmills in Holland, and the annual cost of them is valued at 3,600,000 dollars. It will, indeed, be soon discovered, while visiting either the towns or the country parts of Holland, that the inhabitants do not subject themselves to the unceasing menial labour which characterises the Flemings, Germans, and even the English. A windmill pumps the water out of the polders; a horse drags passengers and merchandise to and fro on the canals ; a street porter is scarcely ever seen carrying a burden. He uses first a wheelbarrow, and, when he becomes rich enough to buy a horse, he has it harnessed to a sledge, on which he drags the burden along the streets. To sum up all, to such an extent do paradoxes prevail in Holland, that even the coirs’ tails , in other countries proverbial for growing downwards, and descend¬ ing in the world as they advance in age, here grow upwards: for, with the view of promoting the cleanliness of the animal while in the stall, the tail is tied up to a ring in the roof of the stable. This may be seen in Brock and elsewhere in Holland. (See Boute 3.) Many authors have exercised their wit or spleen in describing this singular country. Thus, Voltaire took leave of the land and people in these sarcastic words: “Adieu! canaux, canards, canaille.” 8 8. GENERAL VIEW OF HOLLAND. Sect. L The following verses are from the works of Andrew Marvel:— “ Holland, that scarce deserves the name of land, As but the olfscouring of the British sand, And so much earth as was contributed By English pilots when they heav’d the lead ; Or what by the ocean’s slow alluvion fell, Of shipwreck’d cockle and the muscle-shell; This indigested vomit of the sea Fell to the Dutch by just propriety. “ Glad, then, as miners who have found the ore, They, with mad labour, fish’d the land to shore, And div’d as desperately for each piece Of earth, as if’t had been of ambergris; Collecting anxiously small loads of clay, Less than what building swallows bear away; Or than those pills which sordid beetles roll, Transfusing into them their dunghill soul. “ How did they rivet with gigantic piles, Thorough the centre their new-catched miles! And to the stake a struggling country bound, Where barking waves still bait the forced ground ; Building their watery Babel far more high To reach the sea, than those to scale the sky. “ Yet still his claim the injur’d Ocean lay’d, And oft at leap-frog o’er their steeples play’d ; As if on purpose it on land had come To show them what’s their mare liberum. '* A daily deluge over them does boil; The earth and water play at level coil. The fish ofttimes the burgher dispossess’d. And sat, not as a meat, but as a guest; And oft the tritons and the sea-nymphs saw Whole shoals of Dutch serv’d up for Cabillau ; Or, as they over the new level rang'd, For pickled herring, pickled herring chang’d. Nature, it seem’d, asham’d of her mistake, Would throw their land away at duck and drake.” The author of (Hudibras) describes Holland as “ A country that draw’s fifty feet of water, In which men live as in the hold of nature. And when the sea does in upon them break, And drowns a province, does but spring a leak.” And its inhabitants— “ That always ply the pump, and never think They can be safe, but at the rate they sink : That live as if they had been run aground, And when they die are cast away and drown’d: That dwell in ships, like swarms of rats, and prey Upon the goods all nations’ fleets convey ; And when their merchants are blown up and crack'd, Whole towns are cast away in storms, and wrack’d, That feed, like cannibals, on other fishes, And serve their cousin-germans up in dishes. A land that rides at anchor, and is moor'd, In which they do not live, but go aboard.”— Butler. Ho hooks can be read with greater pleasure or advantage by a stranger about to visit Holland, desiring information respecting the history, than Motley's ‘ Rise of the Dutch Republic,’ and ‘ United Netherlands.’ Holland. 9. DYKES. 9 9. Dykes. Holland includes some of the lowest land on the continent of Europe. To keep out the ocean from the sea-hound provinces, and prevent its acquiring territory which seems to he its own, immense dykes or ramparts of earth and stone are raised along the coast, so broad and strong as to prevent the water passing tlmough them, and sufficiently lofty to hid defiance to inundation at high tide. The rivers and inland lakes in many parts of the country are quite as dangerous as the sea, and their waters require to he restrained by dykes nearly as extensive as the sea-dykes. The first thing necessary in the construction of these bulwarks is, to secure a solid foundation, sufficiently strong to support the immense weight to he laid upon it, by ramming down the soil, and by laying a substratum of clay, or by driving in piles when it is incoherent. Were the foundation porous, the water would undermine it, and the dykes sink down into a hollow. The foundation of a sea-dyke is from 120 to 150 feet in width. The rampart itself is composed, as far as possible, of clay: whenever that material is difficult to procure, the face of the dyke is made of clay, and the interior of earth, sand, and clay; hut clay alone is preferred, as being water-proof. The face of the dyke on the water side is made to slope very gradually: in river dykes generally rising 1 foot in 4 or 6, and in the great sea-dyke of Kappel still more gradually, or 1 foot in 13. This very gradual slope is owing, both to the loose nature of material used, and to an opinion that it is better to allow the force of the wave to expend itself over a long incline. The dyke is protected, or in a manner thatched, by willow twigs interwoven so as to form a sort of wicker-work, and the interstices are filled up with clay puddled to render it compact. This wicker-work is renewed every three or four years, occasioning a considerable consumption of willow houghs, and the willow-tree is cultivated to a great extent for this purpose. The dykes are frequently planted with trees, as their spreading and interlacing roots assist greatly in binding the earth together. The base is often faced with masonry, and protected by vast heaps of stones usually brought from Norway, and by rows of piles 16 feet long, projecting 6 or 7 feet above ground, connected by timber, and filled in with fascines weighted with stones : the upper part of the dyke is covered with turf, and rises sometimes to the height of 40 feet. A road runs along the top, or immediately within it. “The dykes, when seen only at one spot, may probably not strike the merely cursory observer as very extraordinary; but when it is recollected that the greater part of Holland is fenced in by similar bulwarks equally massive and costly, they will appear wonderful.”— I. W. C. The most stupendous of these embankments are the Dykes of the Ilelder (see Route 4), and of West Kappel, at the W. extremity of the island of Walcheren (see Route 18). The annual expense of keeping in repair each of them alone amounts to 75,000 guilders (about 6400/.) ; while the sum total annually expended throughout Holland in the repair of dykes and regulation of water-levels varies from 5,000,000 to 7,000,000 guilders (nearly 600,000/.). A special corps of engineers called Water- stciat , including among them many men of science, having received a special instruction in the new college at Delft, are employed entirely in watching the state of the waters and guarding against all accidents from irruptions,—a most important duty, upon which the national welfare, and, indeed, existence, of Holland may be said to depend. During the winter they are stationed near those spots where danger is most to be apprehended, and magazines are erected, provided with the necessary stores and implements, so as to be ready at a mo¬ ment’s notice. The winter is the season most liable to accidents, when it not unfrequently happens that long prevailing S.W. winds, acting on the surface of the Atlantic, drive an accumulation of waters round the north of Scotland into the German Ocean. If these are succeeded by very violent tempests blowing from the N.W., B 3 10 9. DYKES. Sect. I. the effect is, to propel the sea with great violence southward through the British Channel: hut the straits of Dover are too narrow to admit the augmented body of water readily to pass, and in consequence it falls hack upon the coast of Hol¬ land. At such moments the “ broad ocean” may truly be said “to lean against the land,” and the strength of the dykes alone preserves it from submersion. To guard against such an assault the utmost energy, activity, and skill are required. Watchmen are posted day and night along the lino of threatened attack, to give instantaneous warning if symptoms of weakness are anywhere observed in the ramparts ; and workmen are appointed by the authorities to he i n readiness in the neighbouring villages. It may easily be imagined with what intense anxiety the rising tide is, at such times, observed. The accumulation of waters in the ocean causes them to ascend far above the ordinary high-water mark; and if they only surmount the top of the dyke so as to flow over it, its ruin is inevitable. When such a calamity is anticipated, the alarm bell is rung, and every man hastens to his post. With the utmost rapidity, an upper rampart is constructed upon the top of the dyke, to keep out the waters. It is incredible in how short a time a bulwark of this kind is elevated; it is a race between the tide and the embankment. If the strength and solidity of the dyke be doubtful, and a breach be apprehended, large sheets of sailcloth or mats of woven straw and rushes are laid on the out¬ side, in the same manner as a leak is sometimes stopped in a ship. This prevents the earth’s being washed away by the action of the waves. It must be remem¬ bered that the works, raised at such an emergency, vast as they are, are only temporary, and are removed whenever the danger is past. Instances are not rare in which these precautions have proved quite ineffectual; and whole dis¬ tricts have been overwhelmed and lost for ever in the sea, or in the Rhine and its branches. The greater part of the space now occupied by the Zuider Zee was dry land down to the 13th century. In the time of the Romans the IJsscl emptied itself into the lake Flevo. Beyond this lake, to the S. and W., the Zuider Zee, then also a fresh-water lake, discharged itself by a river, the Ylie, which followed nearly the present channel of that name, entering the ocean between what are now the islands of Ylicland and Tcr-schoiling. The action of the waters gradually destroyed the tract of land which divided these lakes. In 1170, during a groat flood, the waters of the southern lake rose to the gates of Utrecht, and the lake was greatly extended, especially towards the N. "West Friesland, it is said, however, still stretched across the Zuider Zee from Petten and Medemblick to the Lauwcr Zee. From that time, for upwards of 200 years, i t continued to increase, swallowing up “ whole forests and many thousand acres of land, so that large ships might be navigated where carriages used to travel.” At last, in 1396, Lake Flevo entirely disappeared, the existing islands were formed, or completely separated from the mainland, and the Zuider Zee con¬ verted into an arm of the German Ocean. The Gulf of Dollart, in the province of Groningen, was the result of the inundation of 1277, which swallowed up 44 villages. Similar calamities have several times produced the same effects in that province. Even so late as 1717, 1560 habitations disappeared beneath the waters of the ocean, which had thus broken its bounds. The Bicsbosch, near Dort, and the sandbanks near South Bevoland, called Yerdronkcn Land (drowned land), are two other examples of submerged districts. Of all the united provinces, Friesland and Groningen have suffered, and continue to suffer, most from floods. The annals of Friesland present the most extraordinary series of disasters from the ocean, and these, better than anything else, will serve to show by what an unstable tenure the Dutch hold the land. “ Friesland was inundated in 533, 792, 806, 839, 1164, 1170, 1210, 1221, 1230, 1237 (this year the island called Ylieland was formed), 1248, 1249, 1250 (the consequence of this inundation was a pestilence, which destroyed several thousand persons), 1277 (this year the Gulf of Dollart was formed)—in 1287 the Zuider Zee assumed its present ex- Holland. 11 9. DYKES.-INUNDATIONS OF THE DIIINE. tent and shape, and 80,000 persons lost their lives in the inundation_1336 1400, 1421, 1429, 1516, 1524 (three inundations in this year), 1530, 1532 155o’ 1570. On Nov. 1 an inundation occurred which covered even the heights called Wieren, and cut off, in different parts of Holland, 100,000 persons, 30 & 000 of whom were Frieslanders. From this year the inundations are less frequent • as an improved method of constructing the dykes was then introduced by the Spanish governor Robles, who at the same time passed a law that they should in future be kept up by the owners of the land. Those recorded since 1570 were in 1610, 1675, 1717, 1776, Feb. 5, 1825, and Mar. 1 , 1855.”— Gauthier , Voyagenr dans les Pays-Bas. Rut Holland is exposed to far greater danger from internal inundations than even from inroads of the sea, arising from the stopping up of the rivers by the ice when the thaw sets in. All the ice of the Rhine and Meuse must necessarily pass the Dutch rivers ; if then it happens that the ice on the German Rhine get loose before the Dutch rivers are free, or if the ice is stopped in its course in a narrow part, it forms itself into one solid dam, stretching across from one bank to the other, sometimes 2 miles or more in length, adhering closely to the bed of the river and rising in icebergs high above its surface, so as to arrest the passage of the water, which, as it rises, must necessarily overflow the dykes behind it. In 1799, when the very existence of a large part of Holland was threatened by an inundation from this source, more formidable perhaps than any other on record, the Rhine rose at Nijmegen 7 feet in one hour ; and when the accumulated waters at last broke the ice-dam, they hurried down icebergs so tall as to conceal the houses of Nijmegen from the view of those on the opposite bank. At the mo¬ ment the dam burst, the river was filled with ice to the bottom, which, as it scraped along, carried off the gravel with it. So extensive and numerous were the dyke ruptures that a large part of Holland on both banks of the Rhine and Waal was laid under water; the icebergs crossed the polders, sweeping away houses built on the dykes, and the loss of life of men and cattle was enormous. Holland is much more liable to river inundation since the improvements in the course of the Upper Rhine and the removal of the impediments at the Ringen Loch, as more water now passes in a given time than formerly. The danger now recurs every winter, especially when a hard frost, during which much snow lias fallen in Germany, is followed by a sudden thaw. The arms of one of the United Provinces is a lion swimming, with the motto, Luctor , et emerge, “ I strive, and keep my head above water.” It might be generally applied to the whole country, which has to maintain a perpetual struggle for existence against difficulties never to be entirely removed. The inhabitant of the provinces bordering on the sea or the Rhine, constantly threatened with the danger of submersion, is not more secure than he who dwells on the side of Etna, or at the foot of Vesuvius, with a volcano 1 leaving beneath him. A stranger can have a full impression of this only when he walks at the foot of one of those vast dykes, and hears the roar of the waves on the outside, 16 or 20 feet higher than his head. Some parts of the country lie several feet below the actual bed of the Rhine; as, for instance, the Ablasserwaard, near Gorcum. Indeed, the industry of the early inhabitants of Holland in restraining their rivers between dykes, so as to prevent periodical inundations, threatens their descendants with a serious calamity at no distant period. It is the nature of all rivers liable to inundation to deposit great part of the sullage on their immediate banks, and raise them higher than the morass behind. Their beds, too, are continually raised by the deposit of the earthy particles mechanically suspended in the water. Hence the Rhine and other great rivers now flow along the ridges of great causeways or natural embankments formed of the deposit brought down by them in the course of ages, and far higher than the surrounding country. This must in all pro¬ bability be broken through some day or other, and the Rhine will find a now outlet to the sea. The same effect may be seen in the Po and Adige. See Handbook for N. Italy , 12 10. canals.— 11. polders. Sect. I. The expense of maintaining the dykes is supported by taxes levied by com¬ missioners appointed for the purpose. 10. Canals. Holland is so intersected with canals, that to a person looking down upon it from a balloon they would have the appearance of a network extending from one end of the country to the other. They serve, 1st, as the means of communica¬ tion ; every little town and village having its own system of canals, which con¬ nect it with all the places around. 2dly, as drains to carry off the superfluous water of the country. 3dly, in the place of walls and hedges: fields, gardens, and houses are surrounded by canals or moats, as in other countries by fences ; and they afford an equally good protection. The canals differ considerably from those of England, which are measured out so as barely to admit two narrow barges to pass, and interrupted at short dis¬ tances by iocks. In Holland, as the canal is the drain as well as the highway of the country, and rids the land of its superabundant moisture, there is no re¬ striction to its breadth; and as there is little variation of level, few locks are required: but those canals which empty themselves into the sea are provided with sluice-gates to prevent the influx of the tides, which are often higher than the waters of the canal itself. The several heights of the waters of Holland are referred to the Amsterdam Pile, which is considered to have been the mean height of the water in the JJ in the century before last, but high water in those days was 2 or 3 inches above the present level. The principal canals are 60 ft. broad and 6 ft. deep. Not only the surface, but even the bottom, is frequently higher than the adjoining land. The North Holland ship canal is truly one of the marvels of the country, and should be viewed by every traveller who visits Amsterdam. In its dimensions it is the largest not only in Holland but in Europe (Route 3). The discovery of the lock, an invention altogether modern, and which has given an entirely new feature to the inland navigation of Europe, has been claimed both by the Italians and the Dutch. “ There is strong reason to believe that in Holland the lock was known, and in use, at least a century before its application in Italy .”—Telford : Ed in. Cycl. Inclined planes for transferring vessels from one level to another, similar to those in China, under the name of rolling bridges , have been long known in Holland. The object seems to have been, not so much to overcome a difference of level', as to prevent the transfer¬ ence of water from one tract of country to another, on account of the jealousy of drainage. One of the most remarkable of this kind is the Ocertoom , between Amsterdam and the Haarlem Meer, which is preferred on account of the interest which the city of Haarlem has in continuing the ship navigation through the ancient sea sluices of Sparendam. (On the subject of this section see the article ‘ Navigation Inland ’ in the Edin. Cgcl. by Telford.) 11. Polders, Turbaries, and Peat. Polder is the name given to a piece of ground below the level of the sea or river, which, having once been a morass or lake [plas , Anglice plash), has been surrounded by embankments, and then cleared of the water by pumps. So large a part of Holland and Belgium was originally in the condition of morass, that whole districts are composed entirely of polders partitioned off by dykes or ramparts; and the ground thus drained is usually remarkable for its richness and fertility. Many of the polders in the Rijnland, or district around Leiden, are 32 ft. below the sea. Besides the natural lakes, the extent of surface covered by water has been much increased by digging for fuel. The natural fuel of the Netherlands is Holland. 11. POLDERS. 13 peat, the brown spongy peat obtained from the higher hogs (hooge veenen or fens) of Friesland, and the black, solid, and more earthy peat of the low mosses (laage veenen) of N. and S. Holland, whose surface is rarely above the level of the sea. From Rotterdam to the Holder they cover a very large area, and have proved rich mines of fuel for many ages. The annual consumption at present is estimated at 10 million tons. The peat is conveyed through the canals and across arms of the sea in barges, called turf-potten. The Dutch drove the Spanish beet out of the Zuider Zee in vessels of this kind. The landing and conveyance of turf on shore is the privilege of a peculiar corporation of porters. But where the peat was extracted stagnant water took its place. Scooped up from beneath this gathering water as long as any available turf existed, or as long as it could easily he reached, the quaking hogs were succeeded by lakes, often from 12 to 20 ft. deep below low Avater,— sometimes of considerable extent, scattered in numbers OA r er the country, and frequently separated only by narroAV intervals of unsteady land between. In draining one of these morasses, or inland seas, and rendering it tit for cul¬ tivation, the first operation consists in damming it in with a rampart of earth sufficiently strong and high to prevent foreign water from flowing into it. Out¬ side this rampart or dyke a ringsloot or surrounding drain is made, of dimensions sufficient to he a navigable canal. Windmills are then erected on the edge of the dyke, each of which works a water-wheel. Pumps are very seldom used in draining, as the water is usually highly charged with silt, and is not required to be raised a very great height. Steam-power is of late and partial introduc¬ tion. The instruments employed are, the scoop-Avheel, the screAV of Archi¬ medes, and the inclined scoop-wheel, or Eekhardt Avhecl. When a great undertaking of drainage is going on, houses are erected in a convenient situation on the dyke, Avhere the engineers and a committee of the pro¬ prietors constantly reside, and carefully Avatch the progress which the wind¬ mills are making. In most cases the undertakers are compelled by government regulations to complete the drainage at a certain period of the year, for the very obvious reason that, if the ground were not cleared of the Avater until the beginning of the summer heat, the exhalations Avoulcl materially increase the marsh fevers Avhich generally prevail in the first years of an extensive drainage. The mills raise the Avater from the marsh to the ringsloot or canal, Avhich con¬ veys it to a river or to the sea. But most frequently the Avhole of this great operation cannot he performed at once : and where the marshes are of too great a depth heloAv the surrounding country, two or three dykes and as many canals are made, at different levels, rising by degrees to the upper canal, in which the whole terminates. In the Schermer-Meer, for instance, there are four stages of canals. Every piece of ground forms a long parallelogram, separated from the next by a broad deep ditch, Avhich, in reality, is a first canal. This serves to convey part of the harvest; to carry off the Avater Avhich, hut for this, would continue on the ground; but, above all, as an enclosure, which renders it un¬ necessary to guard the flocks, Avhich seldom attempt to pass over this obstruc¬ tion. The canals communicate, by means of the above-mentioned mills, Avith those of the second stage along the roads; lastly, tAvo or three upper canals traverse the Avhole of the polder, like great arteries, carrying all these loAver waters into one grand canal made bcloAV the dyke, and immediately connected with the sea. These canals, on four different levels, are, in general, com¬ pletely separated, hut are made to communicate AvheneA’er it is desired, and the precise proportion Avhich is thought necessary may be established betAveen them. “ It is easy to conceive the extreme fertility acquired by land managed in this manner. Formed originally of mud, which Avas itself rich, it is covered almost all the year round Avith herbs which contribute to its fertility. All the Avater Avhich might be injurious is draAvn off at pleasure, by means of the mills, and a regular and gradual irrigation is introduced at the most favourable moment. 14 11. POLDERS. Sect. I. u The appearance of the polder itself, when yon have got into it, is very dif¬ ferent from the upper country; and, though more remarkable, it is decidedly less agreeable. Each object reminds you that you are at the bottom of a lake, on a factitious soil, where everything is calculated. When the draining is finished, the undertakers have very regularly portioned out the conquest they have made from the waters ; they have divided and subdivided it into perfectly equal parts : they have dug canals, made roads, planted trees in perfect right lines, proscribed all curves, all variation in the distance, and placed at the head of each farm a square habitation, which is always similar to its neighbour. Very accurately surrounded with 20 trees, often fine, but never graceful, these re¬ doubts resemble neither farm-houses, which would be less carefully kept, and more animated, nor country seats, where something could be dedicated to plea¬ sure. Their large roofs, coming down nearly to the ground in four equal slopes, rest upon brick walls, which are always neat, but never elegant. They look as if they had just sprung up like mushrooms among the tufted grass which sur¬ rounds them, and which seems never to have been trodden under foot .”—A Journey in North Holland. In forming an idea of the power which will be required to bale out the water from a lake, or to maintain it in the state of a polder, three considerations are to be taken into account: 1st, The depth of water in the lake at its mean level, which indicates the power necessary merely to drain the lake ; 2ndly, The ave¬ rage yearly fall of rain and average yearly evaporation, the difference being to be removed by pumping ; lastly, The quantity of spring or ooze water likely to make its way into the hollow land. An excellent opportunity will be afforded to the traveller to view the results and processes of a drainage on the very largest scale in the empty and now cul¬ tivated basin of the great Lake of Haarlem (Route 2). The better class of polders, with a good soil, when richly manured and care¬ fully cleared of weeds, especially those recently redeemed from the sea, are of great value, and highly productive as arable land ; but the greater part furnish pasture or hay for the cattle, and are by no means of inferior value in this graz¬ ing country. Many polders are subjected to annual inundations in the winter time, which, however, do no harm, if the water which covers them be not salt, and provided it can be removed by the end of May. The proprietors of the polders pay a cer¬ tain sum to be permitted to discharge the water pumped out of them into the neighbouring canals. It may, at first sight, appear singular that the polders, the source of agricul¬ tural wealth, should be equally important to the country in a military point of view; this is, however, the case. By opening the sluices, cutting the dykes, and inundating the low meadows they enclose—a measure fraught with ruin, and therefore only resorted to at the last extremity—the Dutch may bid defiance to the strongest force brought against them: as, though the depth of water and mud upon a submerged polder is sufficiently great to check the advance of an army, it is too shallow to admit the passage of any but small boats. It is true that a hard frost sometimes converts the water, which serves as a defence in summer, into a bridge for the invading foes in winter. By availing themselves of the desperate resource of drowning the land to save it, the Dutch purchased their freedom from the yoke of Spain ; and Europe beheld with astonishment the most powerful monarch in the world, upon whose dominions the sun never set, baffled by the hardy efforts of the inhabitants of a country which in extent is not much greater than Yorkshire. In a following age, 1672, at a time when most of the provinces had opened their gates in consternation to Louis XIY., Holland opened to him her sluices, and was thus preserved from French tyranny. She has made the same sacrifice with equal success at various other periods of her history ; and even in 1830-32 everything was prepared to inundate the country, in the event of an inroad of the French army into Holland, which was at that time threatenedi Holland. 12 . dunes.— 13 . gardens and summer-houses. 15 12. Dunes. The Dunes, or sand-hills, which extend along the coast of Holland from Dun¬ kirk, nearly without interruption, to the Holder, varying in breadth between 1 and 3 miles, and rising sometimes to 40 or 50 ft. in height, are formed en¬ tirely by the action of the wind blowing lip the sand of the sea-shore ; they are a source of good and evil to the country; they serve as a natural barrier to keep out the ocean,—a benefit which, but for the ingenuity and contrivance of man, would be more than counterbalanced by the injury done by their progress inland. On the sea-shore they are mere loose heaps, driven about by every blast, like snow-wreaths on the Alps; and, were they not restrained, would move onward year after year and inundate the country. In passing over a desert of this kind at Schevening, on a windy day, the atmosphere appears dim with the particles of sand blown like smoke through the air. The height of the dunes depends upon the fineness of the sand, as the wind has, of course, the most power in transporting the minuter particles. Camperdown, memorable in the naval annals of Britain, is one of the loftiest on the whole coast, owing to this cause. To check the dispersion of the sand, and the evil attending it, the dunes are sowed regularly every year with plants congenial to it, for even sand has a vege¬ tation peculiar to itself, which may be called luxuriant: but a species of coarse reed-grass, or seabent, which grows near the sea (Arundo arenaria), whose roots sometimes spread to a distance of 30 ft., is principally employed, and to greatest advantage. In a short time the roots spread and combine, so as to hold fast the sand, and cover the surface with a succession of verdant vegetation, which, growing and decaying on it, accumulates upon it a layer of earth capable at length of producing a crop of excellent potatoes, and even of supporting plan¬ tations of firs. Most of the plants thus cultivated on the dimes may be seen, in the Botanic Garden at Leiden. Before the attempt was made to arrest the progress of the sand, it had ad¬ vanced, in the course of centuries, far into the interior ; and it has recently been found worth while, in some instances, to dig away and remove the superincum¬ bent hillocks, and lay bare tho good soil buried by them : since, on being again exposed to the air and light, it is found to bo still fertile and productive. (As to the subjects treated of in Sections 8-12, see Art. VI., Edin. Eev., Oct. 1847, vol. lxxxvi. p. 419.) 13. Gardens and Summer-Houses. Though tho charm of variety of aspect and inequality of surface has been denied by nature to Holland, compensation is made for this, in a certain degree, by the high cultivation of its fields and gardens. In whatever direction the traveller passes through the country, and whether by road or canal, he will find the way enlivened by country seats (buiten plaatscn) and pleasure-gardens ; in the laying out and maintaining of which great wealth is expended, though they do not always show much taste. They present tho most perfect pictures of prettiness, with their meandering walks and fantastically cut parterres, filled with fiowers of gaudiest hue. If possible, each garden is provided with a fish-pond ; and, if it be wanting, the first step which a Dutch proprietor invariably takes, upon entering a newly-acquired demesne, is to dig a large hole that he may convert into a pond; so great an attachment does he appear to have for that element which surrounds him on all sides, which is never out of his sight, and which invariably stagnates before his door in the shape of a canal. At the ex¬ tremity of the garden a pair of iron gates is erected, often more for ornament than use. Through these, or through a gap made purposely in the hedge, tho passer-by is admitted to spend his admiration on the beauties within,—on the pyramids of fiower-pots, trim box borders, and velvet lawns and grass-plots. At the very end of the garden, overlooking the high road or canal, a summer-house 16 13. GARDENS AND SUMMER-HOUSES. Sect. I. is always placed, called zomerhuis (summer-house), tuinhuis (garden-house), or koepel (cupola); this is the resort of the family in spring and summer after¬ noons. Here the men smoke their pipes and sip their beer, coffee, or tea; the old ladies ply the knitting needle, and the young ones amuse themselves with eyeing and criticising the passers-by. In the neighbourhood of all the large towns, the citizens and tradespeople, who have their shops and counting-houses in the crowded and narrow streets, generally have such a pavilion in a small garden on the outskirts, even though they have no house attached to it, to which they can retire when the business of the day is over. Very frequently, on enter¬ ing the town, the traveller passes through a whole street of such gazabos. By a peculiarity of taste, they are invariably placed in a stagnant ditch, which is usually covered with a luxuriant crop of green duckweed, and often offends the nose by the noisome odours which it exhales. The consequence is, that ere the sun goes down, however warm the evening, these ditch-bestriding pleasure- houses must he abandoned to the neighbourly frogs; and they who should venture to prolong their evening recreations beyond a certain hour might pay for their temerity with a fever produced by the unwholesome exhalations which then begin to rise. “ These little buildings are so very numerous as to form a characteristic feature of the country. Each villa has its name or some motto inscribed over the gateway, the choice of which is generally meant to bespeak content and comfort on the part of the owner; and they afford a source of amusement to the stranger as ho passes along. Thus, among others, we read, ‘ Lust en rust/ Pleasure and ease ; ‘ Wei tevreeden/ Well contented; ‘ Mijn genegenheid is voldaan/ My desire is satisfied; 1 Mijn lust en leven/ My pleasure and life ; ‘ Niet zoo kwaalijk/ Not so bad; ‘ Gerustclijk en wcl tevreeden/ Tranquil and content; ‘ Yriendschap en gezelschap/ Friendship and sociability; ‘ Hot vermaak is in’t hovenieren/ There is pleasure in gardening. And over the entrance to one of the tea-gardens near Rotterdam was inscribed, ‘ Do vleesch potten van Egypte/ The flesh-pots of Egypt. Some of the larger gardens abound with fruits and vegetables, and beds and borders of flowering shrubs and plants arc laid out in all the grotesque shapes that can be imagined. It must be confessed, however, that an air of comfort presides over these villas. Most of the dwelling-houses are gaily painted in lively colours; all the offices and out-houses arc kept in neat order; while the verdant meadows are covered with the finest cattle, most speckled black and white.”— Family Tour in South Holland. The following description proceeds from the sarcastic and dashing pen of the author of u Yathek,” and maybe regarded as an amusing caricature of Dutch taste :—“ Every flower that wealth can purchase diffuses its perfume on one side ; whilst every stench a canal can exhale poisons the air on the other. These slug¬ gish puddles defy all the power of the United Provinces, and retain the freedom of stinking in spite of any endeavour to conquer the filthiness. But perhaps I am too bold in my assertion, for I have no authority to mention any attempts to purify these noxious pools. Who knows but their odour is congenial to a Dutch constitution ? One should be inclined to this supposition by the numerous ban- queting-rooms and pleasure-houses which hang directly above their surface and seem calculated on purpose to enjoy them. If frogs were not excluded from the magistrature of their country (and I cannot but think it a little hard that they are), one should not wonder at this choice. Such burgomasters might erect their pavilions in such situations. But, after all, I am not greatly surprised at the fishiness of their sight, since very slight authority would persuade me there was a period when Holland was all water and the ancestors of the present inhabitants fish. A certain oysterishness of eye and flabbiness of complexion are almost proof sufficient of this aquatic descent; and pray tell me for what purpose are such galligaskins as the Dutch burthen themselves with contrived, but to tuck up a flouncing tail and thus cloak the deformity of a dolphin-like termination ? ”— Beck ford. Holland. 14. DUTCH SCHOOL OF PAINTING. 17 14. Dutch School of Painting*—Picture-Galleries in Holland. One point to which the traveller in Holland ought certainly to direct his at¬ tention is the collections of pictures of the Dutch school. Though specimens of its masters are dispersed through all the galleries of Europe, they are nowhere seen in greater perfection than in the museums of the Hague and Amsterdam, and in the numerous private cahinets in these and other Dutch towns. The great excellence of the criticisms on art and descriptions of paintings given hy Sir Joshua Eeynolds in his ‘ Tour in Holland and Flanders,’ and their utility and value to all who would form a correct taste and accurate estimation of paint¬ ings, have induced the editor to incorporate in this work the greater portion of them. The quotations are marked by the letter E. By way of introduction, his remarks on the Dutch school are inserted here; while those on the Flemish school, and especially on Euhens, are reserved for the description of Belgium. On quitting Holland he observes— u The account of the Dutch pictures is, I confess, more barren of entertainment than I expected. One could wish to he able to convey to the reader some idea of that excellence, the sight of which has afforded so much pleasure ; hut as their merit often consists in the truth of representation alone, whatever praise they deserve, whatever pleasure they give when under the eye, they make hut a poor figure in description. It is to the eye only that the works of this school arc ad¬ dressed ; it is not, therefore, to be wondered at that what was intended solely for the gratification of one sense succeeds hut ill when applied to another. “A market-woman with a hare in her hand, a man blowing a trumpet, or a hoy blowing bubbles, a view of the inside or outside of a church, are the subjects of some of their most valuable pictures ; hut there is still entertainment even in such pictures : however uninteresting their subjects, there is some pleasure in the contemplation of the truth of the imitation. But to the painter they afford like¬ wise instruction in his profession. Here he may learn the art of colouring and composition, a skilful management of light and shade, and, indeed, all the me¬ chanical parts of the art, as well as in any other school whatever. The same skill which is practised by Euhens and Titian in their large works is here ex¬ hibited, though on a smaller scale. Painters should go to the Dutch school to learn the art of painting as they would go to a grammar-school to learn languages. They must go to Italy to learn the higher branches of knowledge. “We must he content to make up our idea of perfection from the exceEences which are dispersed over the world. A poetical imagination, expression, cha¬ racter, or even correctness of drawing, are seldom united with that power of colouring which would set off these excellences to the best advantage; and in this, perhaps, no school ever excelled the Dutch. An artist, hy a close examina¬ tion of their works, may, in a few hours, make himself master of the principles on which they wrought, which cost them whole ages, and perhaps the experience of a succession of ages, to ascertain. “ The most considerable of the Dutch schools are Eembranclt, Teniers, Jan Steen, Ostade, Brouwer, Gerard Douw, Mieris, Metzu, and Terburg: these excel in small conversations; for landscapes and cattle, Wouwermans, P. Potter, Berchem, Euysdael, Hobbema, Adrian Vandervelde, Both, and Cuyp ; and for buildings, Vanderheyden; for sea views, W. Vandervelde jun. and Backhuy- sen; for dead and live game and birds, Weenix and Hondekoeter; for flowers, Do Heem, Vanhuysum, Each el Euisch, and Breughel; and for inte- * To enter fully into the history of the different schools of art is beyond the purpose and scope of this work : but the excellent Handbooks of Painting by Kugler (Italian schools edited by Sir Charles Eastlake, P.lt.A., and German and Dutch schools edited by Sir Edmund Head), and that of the Spanish and French schools by Sir E. Head, may safely be recommended as indis¬ pensable companions to those who visit the picture-galleries of the Continent. 18 14. DUTCH SCHOOL OF PAINTING.-— 15. PECULIARITIES. Sect. I. riors and perspectives, Peter de Ilooghe. These make the hulk of the Dutch school. “ I consider those painters as belonging to this school who painted only small conversations and landscapes, &c. Though some of those were horn in Flanders, their works are principally found in Holland: and to separate them from the Flemish school, which generally painted figures large as life, it appears to me more reasonable to class them with the Dutch painters, and to distinguish those two schools rather by their style and maimer than by the place where the artist happened to be born. “ Rembrandt may he considered as belonging to both, or either, as ho painted both large and small pictures. “The works of David Teniers jun. are worthy the closest attention of a painter who desires to excel in the mechanical knowledge of his art. His man¬ ner of touching, or what we call handling, has, perhaps, never been equalled. There is in his pictures that exact mixture of softness and sharpness which is difficult to execute. “Jan Steen has a strong manly style of painting, which might become even the design of Raffaelle ; and he has shown the greatest skill in composition and management of light and shadow, as well as great truth in the expression and character of his figures. “ The landscapes of Ruysdacl have not only great force, but have a freshness which is seen in scarce any other painter. What excellence in colouring and handling is to be found in the dead game of Weenix ! “A clearness and brilliancy of colouring maybe learned by examining the flower-pieces of De Heem, Huysum, and Mignon; and a short time employed in painting flowers would make no improper part of a painter’s study. Rubens’s pictures strongly remind one of a nosegay of flowers, where all the colours are bright, clear, and transparent.” So many changes have taken place in the situation and condition of the pic¬ tures described by Sir Joshua, both in private and public collections, since 1781, when he travelled, more especially in consequence of the French revolution, as to detract from the value of his work as a guide; and it would only confuse the reader to present it entire and in its original form. A careful arrangement and selection of the descriptions has therefore been made, after comparing them on the spot with the pictures as they exist; and they are here distributed in the places where the paintings are now to be found; while a great many works of art of the highest excellence, not seen by Sir Joshua, but added to the various collections since his time, are likewise enumerated. 15. Some Peculiarities in Dutch Manners, etc. A voyage round half the globe would scarcely transport the English traveller to a scene more strange and enlivening, or more different from what he sees at home, than that presented by the streets of a Dutch town. They are so thoroughly intersected by canals ( : grachten ), that most of them might properly be termed quays, lined with houses and bordered with rows of tall trees. The canals swarm with the picturesque craft whose gilt prows, round sterns, and painted sides are rendered so familiar beforehand by the paintings of Cuyp, Yandervelde, and other Dutch artists. At intervals the canals are crossed by drawbridges (ophaalbniggen ), by which a communication is kept up between one part of the town and another. The intermixture of trees, water, shipping, and houses ; the bustle of loading and unloading vessels in front of the owners’ doors ; and the tall red brick houses, with variously pointed gables and variegated tiles, so highly polished that they glitter in the sunshine, have a pleasing as well as novel aspect. Mirrors .—One of the first things that wiU strike a stranger’s eye in a Dutch town are the little mirrors ( spiegels ) projecting in front of the windows of almost 19 Holland. 15 . peculiarities in dutch manners, etc. all the houses. They consist of two pieces of glass placed at an angle of 45° to each other, the one reflecting up, the other down the street. By means of this contrivance the Dutch lady may see all that passes outside, without the trouble of going to the window, or the necessity of exposing herself to the vulgar gaze ; and, while she sits ensconced behind the gauze blind, may continue her knitting- or sewing uninterruptedly. Cleanliness .—It may appear paradoxical to say that cleanliness is carried to excess in Holland; but the passion for purifying really runs to such a height among Dutch housewives that the assertion is by no means groundless : every¬ thing has an air of freshness, and the stranger in vain looks for a particle of dust. It will be productive of some amusement to issue out into the streets of a Dutch town early on a Saturday morning. It is on the last day of the week that an extraordinary schoonmaken (cleaning) takes place,, Every house door presents a scene of most energetic activity—the brushing and mopping, the scrubbing and scraping, are not confined to steps and doorways—the pavement, wall, windows, however guiltless they may be of impurity, are all equally subjected to the same course of ablution. Those spots which are out of the reach of hand or broom do not escape a well-aimed stream from the pipe of a small engine-pump, which is always reserved for such service. The unsuspecting stranger who walks the streets early in the morning is subjected to the danger of perpetual wettings. Ho looks up to ascertain whence the shower descends, and he perceives a diligent servant girl, stretched out of a window two-thirds of her length, and, with eyes intently turned upwards, discharging bowls full of water upon some refractory stain, imperceptible to all but herself. Spiders must stand a worse chance here than in any other country of the globe. Assiduous war is waged against them, the weapon in use being a broom as long as a boarding pike; and the forlorn attempt of a solitary spinner to establish himself in the corner of a window, to which elsewhere he might be supposed to have a prescriptive right, is immediately de¬ tected and scattered to the winds. The purification does not end without sub¬ jecting the instrument of cleanliness, the broom itself, however worn out or old, to a course of cleansing. Within doors equal purity and precision reign. In some parts of Holland, when a farmer or peasant of the better class receives a visitor, he is obliged to put off his shoes before he enters the house ; but he is every¬ where expected to clean them most carefully before admission is granted. In the dairies of North Holland, and especially in the far-famed village of Brock, the traveller will have the best opportunity of appreciating the full extent of Dutch cleanliness. It does not, however, require a long acquaintance with the Dutch to remark that this persevering and almost painful cleanliness is not always extended to their persons, especially among the lower orders, who indeed are not more cleanly than the same class in England. One of the essentials of comfort for a Dutch lady is the Vuur Stoof , a square box, open on one side to admit an earthen pan filled with hot embers of turf, and perforated at the top to allow the heat to ascend and warm the feet: it serves as a footstool, and is concealed under the dress. The use of it is rarely dispensed with, whatever be the season, in doors or out—the citizen’s wife has it carried after her by her servant to church or the theatre. Hundreds of these fire-pots may be seen piled up in the aisles of the churches. To announce that sickness is in a house, the knocker is not tied up as with us, but a paper is stuck upon the door, containing the daily bulletin of the invalid’s health, drawn up by a doctor, which prevents the necessity of ringing and the chance of disturbing the sick person when friends come to inquire after him. In two of the towns of Holland, Haarlem and Enckhuysen, when there is a “ lady in the straw,” a silk pincushion covered and fringed with plaited lace is exposed at the door—the sex of the infant is marked by the colour; if a boy red, if a girl white. The house which shows in this manner that the number of its inhabit¬ ants has been increased by a birth enjoys by ancient law and custom various 20 15. PECULIARITIES IN MANNERS, ETC.— 1G. MUSIC. Sect. I. immunities and privileges. For a certain number of days nothing which is likely to disturb a lady so situated is allowed to approach it. It is protected from legal executions; no bailiffs dare to molest its inmates ; no soldiers can be billeted in it; and, when troops pass it on the march, the drums cease to beat. A sort of basket decorated with evergreen, ears of corn, bits of silk and tinsel hung out over a shop door, denotes the recent arrival of herrings, much prized as a delicacy by the Dutch. Before a traveller has been many days in Holland he will probably meet in the street a man dressed in black, with a cocked hat and wig, a long crape hat¬ band, and a short cloak: he is called the Aanspreker, and his duty is, on the death of any one, to announce the event to the friends or connections of the deceased. The stranger, on first arriving in some of the Dutch towns, is liable to be roused out of his slumbers at night by a strange clatter in the streets. This is nothing more than the clapper of the Dutch watchman, a wooden board with a flexible hammer or tongue attached to it, which he strikes from time to time to give warning to all thieves to get out of his way. The Kermis (wake or fair) is a sort of Dutch carnival, and exhibits many peculiarities of character. The servant-girls, when being hired, always stipulate with their masters for a certain number of holidays or kermis-days. They swarm at these festivals in company with their “ sweethearts indeed, sweethearts are sometimes hired for these occasions, so that the damsels who have not one for love may have him for money. The Stork. — One of the peculiarities of Holland is the sort of veneration in which the stork (called ooyevaar) is held by the peasant inhabitants. These birds are not only never injured or disturbed, but a cartwheel or some other contri¬ vance is often placed on the house-top for their use, if not expressly to invite them to settle, at least to prevent their becoming a nuisance, since otherwise the bird, attracted by the warmth of the fire, would naturally deposit the materials of its nest on the chimney-top itself, so as to stop it up, dirty the house, and perhaps set it on fire, which the owner prevents by a stand or rest so placed as to allow the smoke to escape from beneath it. Their huge nests may be seen perched on the roofs of farm-houses, and even in the town, on the edge of a gable, or near a chimney: it is considered a good omen to a dwelling and its inmates if the stork select it for its habitation ; and to kill one of these birds is looked upon in hardly any other light than a crime. The main army of storks migrate to a southern climate about the middle of August, taking with them the young brood which they have reared. They return in the spring about the month of May. The old ones never fail to seek out their former nests. During a great fire, which, in 1536, destroyed a large part of the town of Delft, the storks were seen bear¬ ing away their young ones from their nest through the midst of the flames, and, where they were unable to effect this, perishing with them rather than abandon them. Several of the Dutch poets allude to this well-authenticated fact. Kightingales, and singing birds in general, are also protected from molestation in Holland; and bird-nesting, and every other injury to the melodists of the wood, is severely punished by local laws. 16. Music— Organs. “ The lover of music fares meagrely in Holland. National melody and native composition seem alike to have disappeared from the country. The operatic theatres at Amsterdam and the Hague are principally occupied (when open) by third-rate German, JFrench, and Italian companies, which may be also met with in the smaller towns, shorn, of course, to provincial dimensions. But those who are ‘ curious in organs ’ will find much to interest them in Holland. The taste for mechanical devices, which has planted bleating clockwork sheep in Mijnheer’s pleasure-garden, has indulged itself, with more dignity, in commissioning for the Holland. 21 16. MUSIC—ORGANS. — 17. AGRICULTURE, churches instruments grand in scale, and curious in the variety of tlicir com¬ ponent parts. If Holland cannot he said to have possessed a school of organ- builders analogous, for instance, to the famous Alsatian family of the Silbcr- manns, yet the land possessed, during the last century, several men of renown, such as Batti of Utrecht, Christian Muller of Amsterdam (the builder of the Haarlem organ), and Hess of Gouda. The organs at Haarlem, Rotterdam, Am¬ sterdam, Gouda, Delft, and Utrecht (and I have been told also at Lecuwarden, Bevcrwijk, and Nijmegen), are all worthy of attention. There are many treatises on organ-building in Dutch. The players seem generally in no respect worthy of their instruments, yet the powerful and unisonal psalmody sustained by the full organ, and filling the lofty churches with a volume of rich and robust sound, treats those attending public worship to a musical effect such as I, at least, have heard in no other place.”— II. F. C. 17. Agriculture. Owing to the peculiar situation and the nature of the soil of Holland the agriculturist has to contend with many difficulties, and consequently to resort to many methods and resources not much attended to in other countries. Travellers, therefore, who take an interest in agriculture may observe much deserving of their attention. Dutch dairy-farms, too, have long been famous. A few of the more remarkable peculiarities and features of the agriculture of the Netherlands are here pointed out. Those who wish for further information on these subjects may consult the following works, from which these observations arc extracted :— On the Agriculture of the Netherlands , Agric. Journal , vol. ii. pp. 43-64 ; vol. iii. 40-263. Outlines of Flemish Husbandrg—Library of Useful Knowledge. British Husbandry , vol. iii. The climate of the Netherlands, from the borders of France to the northern part of Holland along the coast and for 50 or 60 miles inland, differs little from that of Kent or Essex. It is warmer in summer and colder in winter than the central part of England. The quantity of rain which falls there is not so great, especially in winter, as in those parts of England which lie on the opposite coast; but the snow covers the ground for a much longer time. Hence a ma¬ terial difference exists in the time of ploughing and sowing. The quality of the soil is various. Towards the northern part of Flanders and Antwerp, and the southern part of Holland, it is almost as barren as the sand of the sea-shore. If it were not for a small portion of mud occasionally mixed with this soil, the water would freely percolate through it, and no vegetation could be supported. In proportion to the quantity of the mud, which is a very fine clay, with a portion of decayed shells and organic matter, the soil is more or less fer¬ tile ; and when the mud enters largely into it, a rich compact loam is formed. In many places there are alternate narrow strata of sand and loam, which being mixed together form a very productive soil. When the sand is deep, with little or no loam near the surface, it is a tedious process to bring the land into cultivation. Much of the sandy heaths which lie between Antwerp and the Maas remain in a state of nature, producing nothing- hut scanty tufts of heath interspersed with a few very coarse grasses. Some spots have been brought under cultivation by the most indefatigable industry. By trenching and levelling, mixing the heavier soils with the sand, by a careful addition of manure both solid and liquid, and by first sowing such plants as will grow on this barren soil, a stratum of productive soil is gradually collected. If manure cannot be had, broom is first sown. This grows on the most barren soils; in three years it is cut for fagots for the bakers and brickmakers. It has some¬ what improved the soil, which is next sown with buckwheat, or even with rye. After this, clover and potatoes follow; and these crops furnishing manure, im¬ provement goes on rapidly. If about 20 small cart-loads of dung can be brought 22 17. AGRICULTURE. Sect. I. on each acre of the newly-trenched ground, the progress is much more rapid. Potatoes are then the first crop. Then follows rye, after the land has been manured to the same extent as before. In this clover is sown in the succeeding spring. After rye comes buckwheat, without any manure ; then potatoes again, manured as at first; and the same rotation of crops follows. It is evident how important a good supply of manure is to success in cultivat¬ ing such land The most rapid improver of loose sands is liquid manure. Ac¬ cordingly, the greatest attention is paid to the collection and preparation of manure, more especially of liquid manure. Every farm has one or more capa¬ cious tanks, whose construction will he found worthy of the attention of the agri¬ culturist. The instruments of tillage are few and simple, especially the ploughs, which, however, are well adapted to the light soil of the country. An instru¬ ment, called a traineau in Belgium, is used to level the surface of the light soils, without too much compressing them.' A rodded hurdle is also used for the same purpose. The harrows are mostly triangular, with wooden teeth set at an acute angle forwards. The mollcbart , which is used in the levelling of newly-trenched land, is an instrument peculiarly Flemish or Dutch : it is a very large wooden shovel, in form like a housemaid’s dustpan, with a stout long handle. To fully understand its use, it must be seen worked by a skilful hand. The spade and shovel are also largely used in the tillage of the Netherlands. Considerable attention is paid in the Netherlands, hut especially in Flanders, to a proper rota¬ tion of crops. The rotations observed are founded on long experience. Manure, both solid and liquid, is applied constantly to the soil in great abundance. It is by this means that the character of the poor soils becomes in a few years entirely changed. Great attention is paid to the choice of seed. The quantity of seed on a given extent of land in the Netherlands is much smaller than it usually is in England. This is owing to the greater attention paid to prepare the land for receiving the seed. The surface is brought to a finer tilth, by repeated harrow¬ ing with light wooden harrows. Mixed seed is sometimes sown, as a mixture of wheat and rye, which, indeed, is known in Yorkshire, where it is called meslin. In Flanders it is called meteil. The sowing of carrots amongst a growing crop is peculiar to the Netherlands. The Friesland oats are well known in England as of a very good quality for brewing, and great crops of them are raised in the rich alluvial soils of Holland. Chicory is much cultivated, the dried roots of which are roasted and used instead of coffee. The root contains a strong bitter, and is used instead of hops in beer. It is sown about the beginning of April, and the roots are taken up in September, and are then of the size of a small carrot. The leaves, if eaten by cows, give a bad taste to their milk. Flax, hemp, and the oily seeds, especially colza or rape, are also extensively cultivated in the Netherlands. In many parts of the Netherlands, owing to the constant presence of water, the soil is better calculated for meadows than arable land. In these meadows, especially in N. Holland and Friesland, a very fine breed of milch cows and oxen is fed. The quantity of butter exported (chiefly to England), and its value in foreign markets, prove that the operations of the dairy are well conducted. The rich soil, no doubt, gives a good quality to the butter; but this is not the only cause of its superiority. The extraordinary cleanliness of every part of a dairy, and its furniture, show the unremitted attention of the dairywoman. Besides this, the stables, the cows, and even the litter, are kept so clean that it is a pleasure to walk through them; and the family often make one end of the cow-house their usual sitting-room, having a fire-place at one end, and always at least one comfortable bed for a labourer or servant, who always sleeps in the cow-house. The arrangement of a Dutch dairy is as follows:—The building is generally like a large barn, with a roof coming to within 7 or 8 feet of the ground, some¬ times tiled or slated, but more often thatched with reeds, which make it warm in winter. Through the middle, from end to end, is a space 10 or 12 feet broad, Holland. 17. AGRICULTURE. 23 paved with hard bricks. The heads of the cows arc placed towards this middle space, from which all their food is given to them in a shallow trough made of bricks, with a gentle fall from end to end to allow of sweeping and washing. As straw is scarce, the cows lie on smooth bricks laid sloping, and slightly hollow in the middle ; and their beds are made of such a length, that when the cows stand their tails hang over a gutter to receive the dung and urine. The clean¬ liness is carried to such a degree, that in many cow-houses there are pulleys, and lines over them, with a weight at one end, the other being fastened to the end of the tail of a cow to keep it up, and prevent its dipping into the gutter behind. Everything which falls from the cow is swept away immediately, and the water arising from the constant washing of every part of the cow-house runs into a tank, and serves to dilute the dung, which, after a time, is pumped up, and either carried in water-carts to the meadows, or mixed up with earth and the litter of the horses into compost. The cows usually come into their winter quarters in November, and arc put out to graze in May, if the weather is mild. When first the cows are let out into the meadows, a piece of coarse cloth is put over their loins, and tied round their bodies, to prevent the injurious effects of cold dews and fogs ; when the air is warmer this is discontinued. The milk-room is almost always vaulted, and sunk somewhat under the level of the ground. The floor is laid with porous tiles, and, being kept wet, the eva¬ poration keeps the cellar cool. The milk is brought from the cow-house in large brass vessels in the shape of the Etruscan water-cans, which, when full, carry the milk without much shaking. Salt is added to the butter as soon as made : no Dutchman would touch butter which had no salt in it, however fresh it might he. The butter made in summer, when the cows feed in the pastures, is of a very fine golden colour and agreeable taste. When the pastures are not so rich, this colour is sometimes given artificially, hut the natural colour cannot he imitated so as to deceive any hut the inexperienced. The best Dutch cheese is a new milk cheese made near Gouda, and called Gouda cheese. The little round cheeses are made near Edam. Some of the cream has been subtracted and made into butter, and the cheese is what would he called half-meal cheese in England. It is very strongly salted by soaking it in brine. The common skim-milk cheeses have seeds of cummin mixed with the curd, and are made of the size of our Cheshire cheeses. It is a poor cheese, and seldom exported. Yery large oxen are fatted in the rich meadows of N. Holland. They have large hones, and are deficient in some points considered essential by the feeder for a cattle show; hut the chief object of the breed is milk. The meat is ex¬ cellent. Large quantities of oxen and sheep are exported to England, in steamers which take no other cargo, chiefly from Harlingen. The -sheep of the Netherlands are almost universally large, long-legged animals, with dropping ears, which have nothing but their size to recommend them. The horses in the Netherlands may he divided into two distinct breeds,—the heavy Flanders horses, which are either light chesnut coloured, with white tails and manes, or roan. They are bulky and inactive, and inferior to the Suffolk punch, which breed, no doubt, came originally from Flanders, hut has been improved by care in breeding. The Friesland horses are mostly black, and some of them are very strong and active, and will do much work and draw very heavy loads. A breed of very fast trotters is encouraged by trotting matches. The Dutch waggons are light, with a very narrow track, to accommodate them to the narrow roads on the tops of the dykes. A pole would he a great incumbrance in tinning within a very narrow space ; hence a curious substitute has been adopted. A very short crooked pole rises in front, and the driver directs it with his foot. A person unaccustomed to its use could never drive a Dutch waggon, which re- 24 ROUTE 1.—LONDON TO ROTTERDAM. Sect. I. quires great skill and judgment to steer it. A drunken driver is discovered a long way off by the oscillations of his waggon, which frequently runs off the dyke, and is overturned into the ditch on either side, the horses having no power to keep it straight when the crooked pole has not a steady foot to guide the front wheels. The Dutchmen usually make their horses trot in the waggon when not heavily loaded. ROUTES THROUGH HOLLAND. ROUTE 1. LONDON TO ROTTERDAM. Steamers 4 times a week in summer. The General Steam Navigation Com¬ pany’s vessels run from St. Katherine’s Dock, at 11 a.m. precisely, every Tues¬ day, Thursday, and Saturday, returning also on those days. The Netherlands Steamer , the Batavier, leaves Black- wall Pier every Sunday at 11, returning on Tuesday, landing her passengers at Thames Haven, whence a special train takes them to London; average passage 15 hrs. One of the steamers of the Great Eastern Ely. Company is adver¬ tised to leave Harwich for Rotterdam every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. This is a tidal service, and passengers can book through from Bishopsgate Station. Steamers also from Hull and Newcastle to Rotterdam. The average passage from London to Rotterdam is 16 to 18 hours, from Hull 22, from Newcastle 36. The Maas (French Meuse) is the estuary through which a large portion of the combined waters of the Rhine and Meuse find an outlet to the sea 14 m. below Rotterdam. The bar at its mouth is difficult to pass at low tide, when there is but 7 feet water upon it. The first appearance of Holland exhibits nothing but a strip of land on each side, literally “ a willow-tufted bank,” barely raised above the water. The low sandy mud bank projecting into the sea on your left as you enter the Maas is called the Iloek van Hol¬ land (corner of Holland). 1. The small fortified town of Brielle , on the left bank of the river (right hand in ascending), soon appears in sight. Here custom-house officers come on board to fasten down the hold of the ves¬ sel, to examine the ship’s papers and the passengers’ luggage. There is a ferry over the Maas at this place, and the pilots, who carry vessels up the river, reside here. It was the birthplace of Admirals Tromp and de Witt, and is historically remarkable as the first place which fell into the hands of the Dutch ; having been taken from the Spaniards, 1572, by a bold attack of the Water Guesen, under the command of William de la March, who had been expelled from the ports of England by Queen Eliza¬ beth. It may thus be considered as the nucleus of the Republic of Hol¬ land. This exploit was the first in¬ stance of open resistance to the power of Philip II. of Spain, and led the way for the liberation of the country from the Spanish yoke. In 1585 Brielle was delivered up to Queen Elizabeth as one of the cautionary towns, and re¬ mained in the hands of the English till 1616. About 5 miles above Brielle is the entrance to the New Canal of Voor- den, crossing the island of Voorn, by which large vessels pass from the Maas to the spacious harbour of Ilellvoctsluis, and avoid the shallow I bar at the mouth of the Maas. The Holland . ROUTE 1.—ROTTERDAM. 25 largest Indiamen reach, the sea in two days from Rotterdam. At Hell- voetsluis is a royal dock and arsenal. It is the principal naval station of the Dutch on the S., being to Rotter¬ dam and the mouths of the Rhine and Maas what the Helder is to Amster¬ dam and the Zuider-Zee. William III. embarked there for England in 1688. rt. Higher up is Ylaardingen, the head-quarters of the Dutch Herring Fishery, for which it fits out annually from 100 to 150 vessels; the total number from the whole of Holland in the present state of the fisheries falls short of 300. On the 10th or 11th of June the officers employed in the herring fleet repair to the Stadhuis, and take an oath to obey the laws of the fishery; on the 14th they hoist their flags, and go to church to pray for a prosperous season; on the 15th they set sail, and the day is kept as a holiday by the townspeople. The fishery lasts from June 2 till October 30. The fish first caught are sent off in swift - sailing yachts to Holland, where their arrival is awaited with the most anxious expectation. Watchmen are set on Ylaardingen steeple to look out for the vessel; the cargo usually sells for 800 florins, and the first kegs of herrings are sent to the King of Holland and his ministers. Still nearer to Rotterdam, though not at the river side, is Schiedam (14,600 Inhab.), famous for its distilleries of the finest Geneva, of which there are not less than 174 in this small town. The town, surrounded by windmills, is never free from the smoke issuing from its nume¬ rous tall chimneys. At a turn of the river Rotterdam comes suddenly into sight. The Maas in front of the town is from 30 to 40 ft. deep, so that the largest India vessels approach close to the houses, and the steamers land their passengers on one of the fine quays forming the frontage of the fiver. The first of these is the Willems or Weste-kadc (West-quay); the second, the Old Quay, is called the Boompjes (from a row of young elms, boompje signifying little tree ), and the third, the Ooste-kade (East-quay) — the three extending upwards of 2 m. [n. G> ] The Boompjes may, perhaps, recall to mind Cheyne Walk, at Chelsea, though on a larger scale, with the advantage of having deep water close in shore. Some of the best houses are situated on these handsome quays. J /9c <3 Rotterdam.— Inns * New Bath Hotel, on the Boompjes, near the steamers ;— Hotel Yerhaaren and Hotel Weimer, Spaansche Kade ;— St. Lucas and Arend (Eagle), in the Hoogstraat, commercial houses—good table - d’hote ; — Adler’s Hotel des Pays-Bas in the Korte Hoog¬ straat. (See Introd., § 4). N.B.—A good new hotel is much wanted here. Rotterdam, the second city of Hol¬ land in population and commerce, lies on the rt. ba nk of the Maas ; it has 110,000 Inhab., and is distant about 18 m. from the sea. It is built in the form of a triangle, one side of which rests on the Maas; it consists of as many canals as streets; the three prin¬ cipal ones called Leuve, Oude, and Nieuwe havens (harbours), open into the Maas, and communicate with the various canals which intersect the town; thus not only affording a con¬ stant supply of water to the canals, but, by the ebbing and flowing of the tide, keeping up a circulation, and preserving the water from becoming stagnant and putrid; the tide rises commonly 10 or 12 ft. The communication between different parts of the town is maintained by a great number of handsome iron ba¬ lance bridges, and a few clumsy draw¬ bridges suspended by heavy beams of wood overhead. The canals serve as docks, being deep enough to admit vessels of large burden close to the doors of the houses and magazines of their owners, so that they can discharge their cargoes with little trouble and cost. Its ready access to the sea gives Rotterdam a great advantage as a port; and since the separation from Belgium it has been rapidly rising in wealth and population, at the expense of its rival Antwerp. Indeed, since steam has aided inland navigation, the position of Rotterdam has become superior to that of Amsterdam, and it and Hamburg now form the great inlets and outlets of C 26 ROUTE 1.—ROTTERDAM. Sect. i. Germany. The foreign commerce of Rotterdam now chiefly depends on the connection with Java, and that trade at present employs nearly 200 of the finest class of merchant-ships. The West India trade, carried on with Surinam, is reviving. The trade in provisions is very great: much corn is brought down the Rhine from the interior of Germany, mostly for re¬ shipment to England. Nearly a million bales of Java coffee are sold here, and at Amsterdam, annually, chiefly to Russian and German houses. A stranger who has never seen a Dutch town before will find more amusement in merely walking through the streets than in any of the sights which guide - books are usually con¬ tented to enumerate. lie will be struck with the novel and picturesque combination of water, bridges, trees, and shipping, in the heart of a city. He will remark the quaint buildings with gables facing the street, and often overhanging the foundation more than a foot; the canals traversed by innu¬ merable drawbridges opening and shut¬ ting to allow the passage of vessels; the cart running upon sledges instead of wheels, with barrows of water placed in front, which is jerked out through several small holes, so as to sprinkle the pavement as the horse moves on, and diminish the friction. The shoes of the horses, which it is not improbable he may compare to pattens ; the wooden sabots of the peasants; the brass milk- pails, glistening like polished armour; the little mirror fastened before the window of every house (§ 15); and the rude busts of Turks’ or Moors’ heads in front of the druggists’ shops, called, from their open mouths, Gapers, are all novelties not to be met with in his own country. An enormous dyke or dam, erected at the junction of a small stream called the Rotte with the Maas, whence comes the name Rotterdam, passes through the centre of the town. It originally protected the country behind it from inundations during high tides of the Maas. The Iloogstraat (High Street) stands upon this bam ; and the newest part of the town is built on the ground 1 extending between it and the Boompjes, | and gained from the Maas since the | dam was erected. The handsome block of buildings, in¬ cluding the Yacht Club, at the W. end of the town, Weste or Willems Kade (here many of the steamers land their pas¬ sengers), stands on what was a mudbank before 1850, while at the E. end, be¬ yond the new bi'idge, a piece of ground taken from the river no longer ago than 1858 is occupied by the Rhenish and Antwerp Railway Stations and other buildings. Here also is the wharf for inland steamers. The new dock for E. Indiamen and other large ships is at the W. end, near the park. The objects worthy of observation are, The statue of Erasmus, who was a native of this place. It is of bronze, and stands on a wide bridge over a canal, which serves the purposes of a market-place, called the Groote Markt, near the centre of the town. Eras¬ mus’s real name was Gerrit Gcrritz, which, in accordance with the custom of the learned of his time, he translated into Desiderius Erasmus. The house in which lie was born (1467) still exists ; it is turned into a gin - shop, and is situated in the Breede Kerk Straat, leading to the Great Church. It bears a small statue of the scholar, with the inscription, “ IIsec est parva domus, magnus qua natus Erasmus.” X The Great Church of St. Lawrence, Groote Kerk (built in 1472), of brick, contains the monuments of the Ad¬ mirals do Witt and Cortenaer, and Vice - Admiral (Schoutbijnacht) van Brakel, all erected to their memory by the States General, and bearing epi¬ taphs in old Dutch verse. The very fine Organ, finished about 1840, accord¬ ing to some is superior in size and tone to that of Haarlem, the largest metal pipe being 36 ft. long and 17 inches in diameter, and the number of stops 90, and of pipes 6500! It is 90 ft.- high. The organist plays every Thursday at 2 for an hour, when the cli. is open to the public: he will play at any time in consideration of a fee of 10 guilders for the hour. They who do not intend to visit Haarlem will do well to hear this Holland. ROUTE 1.-ROTTERDAM. instrument. In this and otlicr Dutch churches it will he remarked that the coats of arms on the monuments are all defaced: this was the act of the Frcnch republicans during their occupation of Holland. The tower affords an exten¬ sive view of the country around, which, in the direction of Delft and Gouda, as in many other parts of Holland, is almost equally divided between land and water. It is truly debateable ground—intersected in all directions by canals, and trees in straight avenues, its flat surface dotted with farm and summer houses, while an occasional steeple and a number of windmills, with the towers of Delft, Hague, Utrecht, and Amsterdam in the far distance, alone break the level line of a Dutch horizon. Charge for ascending 30 cents. The other public buildings are, the Exchange , where business is transacted daily at 1 (scientific persons visiting Rotterdam should see the collection of philosophical instruments, and the library, in the room above it ;— the Stadhuis or Town Ilall , a large building with a Composite portico ;— and the house formerly occupied by the East India Company, on the Boompjes, turned into warehouses since the company was broken up ; but none of them deserve either minute descrip¬ tion or examination. The philosopher Bayle, when exiled from France, ended his days here, in one of the houses on the Boompjes. M. Nottebohm and M. E. Jacobson, possess excellent private collections of the modern Dutch and Flemish schools ; especially the works of Ary Scheffer, belonging to M. N., deserve inspection. One day will suffice to see all that is remarkable in Rotterdam. The English Episcopalian church, at the end of the Haringvliet (service at 11 and 6 every Sunday), was erected 1706 by subscriptions from English residents of 8000/., to which Queen Anne contributed 500/., and the Duke of Marlborough 100/. It was used by Napoleon as a stable for his horses. There is a Scotch Presbyterian church on the Schottsche Dijk, erected by the Scotch residents in the 17th centy, (service 10 • 3 0), and an j 27 | English Presbyterian church in the middle of the Haringvliet (service at 10 a.m.). This, though served by ministers from Great Britain, forms part of the Nationa Church establishment, the salary be¬ ing paid by the Dutch government. The water of the Maas, which is drunk here, sometimes causes consider¬ able annoyance to persons unaccustomed to it: travellers should avoid it (§ 6) and drink Selzer water. In the suburbs are many places of entertainment, with Gardens , not un¬ like tea - gardens in England, except that some of them are frequented by the higher classes of citizens, and par¬ take of the nature of a club. Here are found billiard and ball rooms, skittle- grounds, refreshments of various kinds, and much smoking. X At the W. end of the town is the New Park —beautifully laid out grounds, much frequented by the public during the summer. On Wednesday evenings military concerts, as also on Sundays at 1, when the ladies of Rotterdam come forth in all the glories of dress and parade. Within this park is a statue , in white marble, of the Dutch popu¬ lar poet—the poet-merchant— Pollens. Outside the Delft gate, and adjoining the rly. stat., arc the Zoological Gardens (50 cents admission). Physicians: Drs. Van der Pant and Maury. English and Foreign Boohs, including Maps and Handbooks, will be found at Mr. Kramers’ s Library , Geldersche- kadc. There are several Clubs (Amicitia, Doelen, Lees Kabinet) here, where Eng¬ lish and continental newspapers are taken in; a stranger may be introduced by a member. This was the native place of Adrian van der Werf, van der Necr, Netscher, and Zachtleeven, painters, and of James Crofts, Duke of Monmouth, son of Charles II. by Lucy Waters. The Post Office (het Postkantoor) is in the Wijnstraat. Trekschuiten (§ 5) start every hour in the day to Delft and flic Hague: the fare to the Hague is 12 stivers; Delft, 8 stivers. G 2 28 ROUTE 2. —ROTTERDAM TO AMSTERDAM. DELFT. Sect. I. Railways. — Hollandsche Spoorweg (Stat. outside of Delfsche Poost), to Leiden, Hague, Amsterdam ; — from Moerdijk on Hollands Diep to Antwerp and Breda. (Bte. 13.) Bijn Spoorweg (Stat. on tlie Quai above the town), to Gouda, Utrecht, Amsterdam, Emmerich, Oherhausen, and all parts of Germany. Ptes. 9 and 34. Steamboats daily to Nijmegen in 8-10; to Moerdijk in 2 hours; to Middelburg, in Zealand, in 9 ; nearly every hour to Dort in l\ hr.; to Gouda and hack daily; weekly to Havre and Dunkirk; to London every Tues., Tliurs., and Satur¬ day; to Antwerp daily, in 65 hours (see Ete. 18); to Bois le Due (Hertogenbosch) daily, in 8 hours ; to Hull every Wed¬ nesday and Saturday; to Newcastle, Glasgow, and Leith every Saturday. Cabs , vigilantes, await the arrival of every train and steamer; fare , to or from the stat., 1 gr.—baggage 15 cents extra. A steam ferry-boat plies across the Maas to Katendrecht every \ hour, starting from a point a little below the town: the fare is 10 cents. The island of IJssclmondc, which here forms the l. bank of the Maas, though but 15 m. long by 7 wide, is said to be surrounded and intersected by dykes meastuing 200 m. in length. The annual Kermis, or fair, begins on the second Monday in August, and lasts a week. xx ROUTE 2. ROTTERDAM TO AMSTERDAM, BV DELFT, THE HAGUE, LEIDEN, AND HAARLEM. —RAILROAD—(HOLLANDSCHE-SPOOR¬ WEG). About 52^ Eng. m. 9 trains a day; to the Hague, 13 m., in 45 min.; to Amsterdam in 2 | hrs. This railway, the first that was con¬ structed in Holland, is due to the en¬ terprise of a public company, called “ The Eailway Company of Holland.” The difficulties of construction arising from the peculiar physical character of the locality were the least that the company had to contend against, owing to the hostility of the proprietors of the land. The part between Haarlem and Amsterdam was opened 1839. The engineer was the Chevalier F. W. Conrad. The cost of each Eng. mile of single line of railway laid was 2394L 10s. Trekschuiten to Delft in 2 hrs. The old road to Delft is pleasantly varied with villas and gardens, and runs for a considerable distance alongside of the canal, as, indeed is the ease with most roads in Holland. Terminus at Botterdam outside the Delft gate; rt. Overschie; 1. lies Delf- shaven on the Maas. Schiedam Stat. —(Inn, none.) The town is on the 1 ., surrounded by wind¬ mills, and enveloped in everlasting smoke, rising from its 300 distilleries of gin (jenever, i. e. juniper). Though of little interest to the passing traveller, Schiedam is one of the wealthiest cities of Holland, arising from the great ex¬ tent of its shipping and manufactories. The human population of the city is 15,000, whilst its porcine population is 40,000. (See Bte. 1.) Delft. Stat. — Inn, Den Bolk. On the Schie, 8 m. from Botterdam, 20,000 Inhab.; and said to derive its name from dclven, to dig. This town, “the parent of pottery,” has been supplanted, even in Holland itself, in its chief article of produce, to which it has given a name (Delft-ware, in Dutch plateel), by Holland. 29 ROUTE 2. —DELFT. CHURCHES. the superior manufactures of England, and the improved taste introduced by Wedgwood in the making of pottery. All the earthenware now made here is of the coarser kind, and employs very few persons. The government has a school here for training candidates for the East Indian engineering and civil service. The streets appear empty and dull, hut there is enough to amuse a traveller for an hour or two. The Stadhuis, in a tine market-place, is a picturesque building, in the Dutch style (17th centy. ?), of stone, richly de¬ corated with cornices, obelisks, pedi- mented windows, and pilastered gables. In the centre of the roof rises a square tower.— PI, The New Church (b. 1381) in the great square contains the costly monu¬ ment, clustered with columns and rich in marble, but in very bad taste, erected by the United Provinces to the me¬ mory of William I., Prince of Orange, who was assassinated at Delft, 10th July, 1584. Pepys styles it ‘' a stately tomb of marble and brass, wherein, among other varieties, there are the angels with their trumpets, expressed as it were crying.” William’s statue in marble, in his robes, with sword and sceptre, reclines upon the tomb ; and at his feet is the figure of his favourite little dog, whose affection saved his master’s life from the midnight attack of some Spanish assassins, who had planned to murder him while asleep in his camp, near Mechlin, 1572. The Spaniards, advancing stealthily under cover of the darkness, had nearly reached the tent, when the vigilance of the dog, whose instinct appears to have told him that they were enemies, detected their ap¬ proach. lie instantly jumped upon the bed, and, by barking violently and tearing off the clothes with his teeth and feet, roused his master in time to enable him to escape. The faithful animal pined to death after his master’s decease. The inscription on the tomb makes mention of the dog’s attachment. There is a second and better statue of the prince under the arch at the head of the tomb, seated, in full armour. Beneath is the burial-vault of the present royal family of Holland. Here also is the simple monument of Grotius, who was a native of Delft, and is interred in this church. This church contains a fine organ. In the Old Church (Oude Ivcrk), which has a leaning tower, is the mo¬ nument of Admiral Tromp, the veteran of 32 sea-fights, who conquered the English fleet under Blake, in the Downs, 1652, and afterwards sailed through the channel with a broom at his mast¬ head, to signify that he had swept the sea of the English. lie was killed at last in an engagement, represented in bas-relief on his tomb, between Sehevcn- ing and the mouth of the Maas, in which the English were victorious. “ His epitaph is concluded thus:—‘ Tan¬ dem bello Anglico tantum non victor, ccrte invictus, vivere et vincere desiit.’ There is a sea-fight cut in marble, with the smoke the best expressed that ever I saw in my life.”— Pepys. In the same church are buried Piet Hein, who from a fisher-lad of Delsliaven rose to be admiral, captured the Spanish silver fleet, and died for his country; and Leeuwenhoek, the naturalist, also a native of Delft. The Grand Pensionary Heinsius, the friend and fellow-coun¬ cillor of Marlborough and Eugene, was also born here. The house in which William Prince of Orange (born at Dillenburg in Nassau) was assassinated July 10, 1584 is nearly opposite to the W. end of the Old Church; it is called the Prinsenhof, originally the Convent of St. Agatha, and is now a barrack. After crossing the court, a small door on the rt. leads to the spot where the murder was committed. The identical staircase which he was about to ascend after din¬ ner, and the passage where the mur¬ derer Balthazar Gdrard stood,—so near to his victim that the pistol must almost have touched his body,—will assuredly be looked upon with interest by every traveller. An inscription, on a stone let into the wall, records the evont; and 3 holes, bored in another stone below it, pass for the actual marks of the poisoned bullets which killed him. Pie expired in the arms of his sister, and his wife (daughter of Coligny who had been murdered in her sight, 30 Sect. I. ROUTE 2. — at the St. Bartholomew massacre). The last words of the hero were, “Mon Dicu, aye pitie de moi et de ce pauvre peuple! ” The assassin was a native of Burgundy, and an avowed agent of Philip II. of Spain, and of the Jesuits. William had escaped 8 successive mur¬ derous attempts, all coming from the same quarter. In the month after his assassination the states of Holland met at Delft, and placed his son Maurice, then a youth of 17, at the head of affairs. On an island surrounded hy canals, near the entrance of the town, is the State Arsenal of Holland , an extensive and gloomy building, looking like a fortress, and ornamented with the arms of the ancient Dutch republic. It was originally the Dutch East India House. Here is a College, where the engineers of the Water-Staat receive instruction in all matters relating to the dykes, dams, and drainage of Holland—an im¬ portant branch of the national service. Okey, Barkstead, and Corbet, the regi¬ cides, settled at Delft. They were seized in an alehouse here hy Sir George Down¬ ing, the English envoy at the Hague, sent to London, and executed at Tyburn. Between Delft and the Hague (about 4f m.) the trekschuit will he found an agreeable and good conveyance. The canal from Delft to Leiden is hy many considered as being the Fossa Corbulonis, and probably a part of the ancient excavation has been adopted. Corbulus employed his soldiers in exca¬ vating this canal in order to unite the Bliine and the Maes. ( Tacitus , Annal., 11 , 20 .) The country is even more thickly spread over with cottages, villas, coun¬ try seats, and gardens (§ 13), than on the other side of Delft. On the left of the canal and high road, hut on the right of the railroad, appears the spire of the church of Byswyk, near which the famous treaty of peace was signed (1G97) between England, France, Hol¬ land, Germany, and Spain, in a house of the Prince of Orange, now removed; its site is marked hy an obelisk. 24 m. The Hague St at. (La Ilaye, in French; S’Gravenhage in Dutch; Haag in German.) Inns u Hotel Belle- THE HAGUE. vne, well situated, facing the park, near the Museum and English Chapel; bed, 1 gr. 56 c.; table d’hote at 5, 2 gr.; tea, 60c.; breakfast, 70 c.; wax lights, 40 c. Hotel de VEurope , Lange Houtstraat, close to the Museum : bed, 1 fl.; break¬ fast (without meat or eggs), 60 c. ; table d’hote, l|r A. Hotel Paidez (Heercn- logement) opposite Theatre, comfort¬ able; good table-d’liote. *Oude Doelen, very comfortable. (Doel is the Dutch for the hull’s eye in the target, derived from times when archery was the fa¬ vourite amusement, and the inn the place of resort for the various companies or guilds of marksmen when the con¬ test was decided.) Nieutce Doelen; Marechal Turcnne; Keizershof (Imperial Hotel); Ticee Steden (Two Towns). The population is 88,000: 25,000 Bom. Cath. Though long the residence of the Stadtholders, and now of the King of Holland, up to the beginning of the present century the Hague ranked only as a village, because it had neither corporation nor walls, and did not re¬ turn members to the States General; Louis Bonaparte, however, during his rule, conferred on it the privileges of a city. Other Dutch cities owe their rise to commerce or manufactures; this to the residence of a court, the presence of the Government and States General, and the abode of foreign ministers. Its origin may he traced to a hunting-seat of the Counts of Holland, built here in 1250 ; and its name to the Counts’ Hedge (S’Gra¬ ven Hage ) surrounding their park. Few continental cities have made since 1850 so much perceptible progress in comfort and luxury as the Hague. Canals have been drained and con¬ verted into handsome streets, palatial residences; handsome mansions and villas have been erected, and gardens and parks been laid out with an expen¬ sive profusion. The principal streets are, the Yoor- hout, lined with trees and bordered with splendid hotels ; the Prinsen- gracht, Kneuterdijk, and Xoord Einde. The Yijverberg (the fish-pond hill) is a square or place, with avenues of trees forming a shady promenade on the one side, and a piece of water on Holland, it. 2 .—the hague. BINNENHOF. MUSEUM OF PICTURES. 31 the other. It is in Holland alone that so gentle a rise in the ground as is here perceptible would he dignified with the name of a hill. On the S. side of the Vijverberg stands the Binnenhof , so called because it formed the “ inner court ” of the Count's palace, an irregular building of various dates. The Gothic hall in the centre of it, now used for the drawing of the lottery ( Loterijzaal ), and criminal court {Iloog Gcregtshof), is the oldest building in the Hague, and the only re¬ maining fragment of the original palace of the Counts of Holland. It is a fine room, with a pointed roof, supported by a Gothic framework of wood, somewhat in the style of that of Westminster Ilall. It possesses some interest in an histo¬ rical point of view; since, upon a scaf¬ folding erected opposite to the door, on a level with the top of the steps, the virtuous and inflexible Barncvcld, Grand Pensionary of Holland, was be¬ headed in 1618, at the age of 72. This event is a stain on the character of Prince Maurice of Nassau ; hut it is not true, as some have asserted, that he looked on from a side window during his rival’s execution. The people be¬ held it with tears; and many came to gather the sand wet with his blood to keep it carefully in phials. The Chambers of the States General or Dutch parliament, and several of the public offices, arc situated in the Bin¬ nenhof. The public are freely ad¬ mitted to the debates of both Chambers. Between the Buitenhof (Outer Court) and the Vijverberg is an old gate-tower, called Geoangenpoort (prison-gate), re¬ markable as the place in which Corne¬ lius DeWitt was confined, 1672, on a false charge of conspiring to assassinate the Prince of Orange. The populace, in¬ cited to fury by the calumnies circu¬ lated against him and his brother J ohn, the Grand Pensionary, broke into the prison at a moment when the latter had been enticed hither by a report that his brother’s life was in danger, dragged them forth, and literally tore them to pieces, with ferocity more befitting wild beasts than human beings. The ! State Prisons, besides the interest they possess from historical associations, are curious, on account of “ the tortures in¬ flicted on the prisoners (within the last two centuries), not surpassed in cruelty even at Venice in its worst times : the rack, the pulley, the oubliettes, &c., are still shown.”— L. Fm. A few yards from the spot where the Dc Witts were murdered, in the Kneuterdijk, opposite the Hertogstraatje, may be seen the mo¬ dest mansion of the Grand Pensionary De Witt, who, though the first citizen of the richest country in the world, and perhaps the profoundest statesman in Europe, baffling the encroaching policy j of France, and frightening London with the roar of his cannon in the Thames, was never seen in public but in the most homely dress, kept only a single servant, and rarely made use of a coach. Barneveld lived in a house which now forms part of the hotel of the Minister ! of Finance in the Lange Voorhout. The Picture Gallery and Museum are situated in the building called the Maurits Huis, from Prince Maurice of Nassau, Governor of Brazil, and afterwards of Cleve, by whom it was built. It is between the Plcin and | the Vijver. They are open to the pub- i lie daily, except Sunday, from 9 to 3, on Saturday from 10^ to 1. At other times, when the Gallery is opened ex¬ pressly for strangers, it is usual to give the door-keeper a guilder. X The Picture Gallery is almost entirely confined to the works of Dutch mas- ! tors, and contains some of their finest works. It is not possible to point out the rooms which contain the works here mentioned, as there is nothing to dis¬ tinguish the rooms. % The most remarkable pictures are i arranged in alphabetical order in the : following list,—- Berghem: An Italian View. — Ban- i ditti robbing a Caravan: excellent. Ferdinand Bol: Portrait of Admiral I deBuyter. John Breughel: “Two pictures of flowers and fruits, with animals ; one serves for a border to a bad portrait (?), the other (called the Flight into Egypt) 32 ROUTE 2 . —THE HAGUE. MUSEUM OF PICTURES. Sect. I. to a picture of Rottenhamcr.: the frames are much better than the pictures.”— B. Figures hy Bubens. Paradise. The largest and best of Breughel’s pictures on this subject: see Kugler. Gerard Douw: A Woman sitting near a window, with a child in a cradle; a very pleasing picture. — “A woman with a light.” B. Very highly finished. Albert Barer : Two portraits, said to be of Laurence Coster, the inventor of printing, and P. Are tin. Be Heem: “Fruit, done with the utmost perfection.” Begnolds. Van der Heist: Portrait of Paul Potter, taken a few days before his death. Hoekgeest (a rare master): The tomb of William Prince of Orange in the New Church, Delft. “ It is painted in the manner of Do Witt, but I think better.” B. Holbein: A small portrait of a man with a hawk; on it is written Bobert Cheseman, 1533. “Admirable for its truth and precision, and ex¬ tremely well coloured. The blue fiat ground behind the head gives a general effect of dryness to the picture: had the ground been varied, and made to harmonise more with the figure, this portrait might have stood in compe¬ tition with the works of the best por¬ trait painters.” B. —Jane Seymour.—A portrait called Sir Thomas More; on it is the date 1542: it is quite unlike Sir T. More, who was beheaded 6 July, 1535 :—fine portraits. Hvndelioeter &f Weenix: One or two admirable specimens of these masters, representing birds and game alive and dead. Van Huissum: Fruit and flower pieces. Keyzer: Four Burgomasters of Am¬ sterdam deliberating on the reception of Mary de Medici into their city. “A very good picture.”—A small full- length of a Magistrate in black: excel¬ lent. Lingelbach : The Departure of Charles II. from Scheveningcn for England in 1660. Metzu: Emblematical representation of Justice. F. Mieris: Boy blowing bubbles. “ Dutch gallantry: a man pinching the ear of a dog, which lies on his mistress’s lap.” B. Called in the catalogue, The Painter and his Wife. A. Van Ostade: “ The exterior and interior of a cottage.” ^ Paul Potter: Young Bull,—his mas¬ terpiece, remarkable as one of the few examples in which the artist painted animals as large as life. “ There can¬ not be a greater contrast to a very ge¬ neralised mode of treatment than that displayed in the celebrated picture of ‘ The Bull,’ by P. Potter, which ap¬ proaches the nearest to deception of any really fine work of art I have seen. The painter seems to have omitted no¬ thing that ho saw in nature which art could represent, and yet its reality is free from any still-life unpleasantness. It is admired for its truth, but to a cultivated eye it has that something more than mere truth that is indis¬ pensable to a work of art; it has great taste throughout—displayed no less in the general arrangement of the masses and forms than in the most minute particulars. The grandeur of the sky, and the beautiful treatment of the distant meadow, show that the painter had the power of seizing the finest characteristics of the large features of nature, while the exquisite manner in which the beautiful forms of the leaves of a dock, and their colours, com¬ pose with one of the legs of the young bull, display as fine an eye for her most intricate beauties. Throughout the picture, indeed, we see that the hand has been directed by the eye of a consummate artist, and not merely by a skilful copyist.” C. B. Leslie , B..A. This picture was carried to Paris by the French, and was classed by them fourth in value of all the paintings then in the Louvre; the Transfiguration, by Ra¬ phael, ranking first; the Commu¬ nion of St. Jerome, by Domenichino, second; and Titian’s Peter Martyr, third. They who know those three great works will probably be startled at the place thus assigned to this picture. Paul Potter’s Bull has been valued at 5000/.; the Dutch government, it is stated, of¬ fered Napoleon 4 times that sum if he would consent to suffer it to remain at the Hague.—The Cow drinking; “ finely 33 Holland. route 2.—the hague. painted, remarkable for the strong re¬ flection in the water.” R.* Poussin : Venus asleep: a Satyr drawing off the drapery. R. The painting to which Sir Joshua alludes is probably described in the catalogue as the Dream of Astolpho, from Ariosto, by one of Rubens’s scholars. X Rembrandt: A Surgeon, Professor Tulp, attended by his Pupils, pro¬ ceeding to dissect a Dead Body. Though an unpleasing subject, it is a most wonderful painting, and one of the artist’s finest works. “To avoid making it an object disagreeable to look at, the figure is but just cut at the wrist and fore-arm. There are 7 other portraits, coloured like nature itself, fresh and highly finished; one of the figures behind has a paper in his hand, on which are written the names of the rest. Rembrandt has also added his own name, with the date, 1632. The dead body is perfectly well drawn (a little fore-shortened), and seems to have been just washed. Nothing can be more truly the colour of dead flesh. The legs and feet, which are nearest the eye, are in shadow; the principal light, which is on the body, is by that means preserved of a compact form.” R. Physicians assert that they can ascer¬ tain that it is the body of a person who died from inflammation of the lungs. This picture formerly stood in the An¬ atomy School (Snijkamer) of Amster¬ dam, but was purchased by the King for 32,000 guilders (2700/.)—Portrait of an officer with hat and feathers: “for colouring and force nothing can exceed it.” R. —St. Simeon receiving the Infant Jesus in the Temple.—“A study of Susanna for a picture. It appears very extraordinary that Rem¬ brandt should have taken so much pains, and have made at last so very ugly and ill-favoured a figure; but his attention was principally directed to the colouring and effect, in which, it must be acknowledged, he has attained the highest degree of excellence.” R. Rubens : His first wife, Catherine Brintes; and his second wife, Helena * The quotations marked R. are derived from Sir Joshua Reynolds’ ‘ Tour in Holland and Flanders.’ MUSEUM OF PICTURES. Forman : i 1 both fine portraits ; but the last by far the most beautiful and the best coloured.” R .— Portrait of his confessor. Schalken: A Lady at her Toilette. A beautiful candlelight effect. — Portrait of William III. Snyders: “A large hunting piece, well painted, but it occupies too much space. His works, from the subjects, their size, and, we may add, from their being so common, seem to be better suited to a hall or ante-room than any other place.” R. The landscape is by Rubens. Jan Steen : The Menagerie, one of his best works. In the distance the house at Hondsholredijk.—Human life (see Ivug'ler, German and Dutch Schools); and other very good pictures. Teniers : “An alchemist.” — “A kitchen.” R. Terburg : A Woman seated on the ground, leaning her elbow against a man’s knee, and a trumpeter delivering a letter.” R. Unknown: Portrait of the Emperor Charles Y.; a sketch. Vanderwerf : The Flight into Egypt: “ one of his best.” R. X Van Dyh: Six portraits of the Huy¬ gens family. — Portrait of Simon, a painter of Antwerp. “This is one of the very few pictures that can be seen of Yan Dyk which is in perfect preser¬ vation; and, on examining it closely, it appeared to me a perfect pattern of portrait-painting; every part is dis¬ tinctly marked, but with the lightest hand, and without destroying the breadth of light: the colouring is per¬ fectly true to nature, though it has not the brilliant effect of sunshine such as is seen in Rubens’s wife: it is nature seen by common daylight.” R .— Two fine portraits of a Gentleman, and “a Lady with a feather in her hand;” R.: called, incorrectly, the Duke and Duchess of Buckingham; from the coat of arms in the corner, they are probably either Dutch or Ger¬ man.—“ A Virgin and Infant Christ, coloured in the manner of Rubens, so much so as to appear, at first sight, to be of his hand; but the character of the child shows it to be Yan Dyk’sj” c 3 34 ROUTE 2. —THE HAGUE. MUSEUM. Sect. I. R. The only picture in the gallery j answering to this description is one at¬ tributed (and to all appearance cor¬ rectly') to Murillo. Velasquez: Portrait of a hoy: said to ho Charles Balthazar, son of Philip IV. of Spain. A. Van de Velde: The seashore at Scheyening. Vernet: A storm at sea. Wouvermans: A Battle-piece ; u The Hay Cart; ” and “ The Manege three excellent specimens of this artist. ‘ ‘ Here are many of the host works of Wouver¬ mans, whose pictures are well worthy the attention and close examination of i a painter. One of the most remarkable of them is known by the name of the Hay Cart: another, in which there is a coach and horses, is equally excellent. These pictures are in his three different manners : his middle manner is by much the best; the first and last have not that liquid softness which charac¬ terises his best works. Besides his great skill in colouring, his horses are correctly drawn, very spirited, of a beautiful form, and always in unison with their ground. Upon the whole, he is one of the few painters whose ex¬ cellence, in his way, is such as leaves nothing to be wished for.” - A. X The Royal Cabinet of Curiosities, a highly interesting collection, is placed in the lower story of the Maurits Huis. Several apartments are occupied en¬ tirely with objects of curiosity from China and Japan, and rare productions brought from the Dutch colonies; one division is devoted to historical relics of distinguished persons. Some of the most remarkable objects are here enumerated, but a catalogue is almost indispens¬ able. The costumes of China, illustrated by figures of persons of various ranks, in porcelain, as the Emperor, a Bonze or Priest, Mandarins, &c., each in his pe¬ culiar dress. An immense variety of articles manufactured by the Chinese in porcelain. Figures and other objects elaborately carved in ivory, mother-of- pearl, and soap-stone or steatite. A chess-board, differing but little from that of Europe ; articles in daily use amongst the Chinese, as the chopsticks, which serve instead of knives and forks; the calculating table (swampon, or abacus), with which they cast accounts; speci¬ mens of visiting cards 2 feet square, Ac.; and a view of the palace of the Emperor of China at Pekin. The rarities from Japan are unique , as the Dutch, previously to the Treaty of 1858, were the only European nation admitted into that country, and had therefore alone opportunities for procuring curiosities. They give a most satisfactory insight into the manners and habits of that remote and highly civilised country. A plan of Jeddo, the metropolis of Japan, a city of at least 2,000,000 Inhab., and 20 leagues in circumference. A curious model, made by the Japanese, with the most minute attention to details, of the island of Decima, the Dutch Factory in Japan. Several hundred figures are in¬ troduced into it, giving a precise idea of the occupation of the people, the furni¬ ture of their houses, their dress, &c.— The Deities of China and Japan in porce¬ lain, &c. A whole wardrobe of Japanese dresses, made of silks and other stuffs. A large collection of Japan ware, as boxes, trays, tea-chests, &c., of far finer workmanship and more elaborately painted than the ordinary specimens commonly met with in Europe. Japan¬ ese weapons, particularly various species of krits or dirks, and swords, of remark¬ ably fine steel, which in temper arc said to surpass anything which Birmingham, or even Damascus, can produce. The Japanese arc tremendously expert in the use of this their favourite weapon: with one blow they can sever a man’s body in twain. The upper classes of society claim the privilege of wearing two swords at once. The matchlock barrels deposited here are excellent in the quality of the steel and in the beauty of the workmanship. Among the articles of military equipment is a coat of Ja¬ panese mail, with a steel visor formed into a grotesque face, and ornamented with mustachios of bristles and horns of brass. A Norimon, or Japanese palan¬ quin. The needles and other apparatus with which the operation of acupunc- Iture is performed by the Japanese Holland. ROUTE 2.—THE HAGUE. ROYAL LIBRARY, ETC. 35 physicians, arc deserving the attention of medical men. Many cases are entirely filled with dresses, arms, implements, canoes, and household utensils of savage nations, from various parts of the world. Hero is a model of Fieschi’s infernal machine, and a Russian knout. Among the Historical Belies are the armour of Admiral de Ruiter, with the medal and chain given him by the States General. The baton of Admiral Piet Hein. The armour of Admiral Tromp, with the marks of more than one bullet on it. The chairs of Jacqueline of Hoi- j land, and of Barneveld, brought from j his prison. The portrait and sword of i Yan Speyk, who blew up his vessel before Antwerp, 1831; and the chair on which General Chasse sat during the siege of the citadel. A portion of the bed on which the Czar Peter slept in his hut at Zaandam. The shirt and waistcoat worn by 'William III. of Eng¬ land the last three days of his life. A : specimen of the beggar’s bowl (jatte de Gueux) which formed a part of the in¬ signia of the confederate chiefs who freed Holland from the yoke of Spain, worn by them along with a wallet, as symbols of the name of beggar (gueux), with which their enemies intended to have stigmatised them. Aballofwood, full of nails, each driven in by one of the confederates when they swore to be faithful to one another and stedfast in the enterprise. The dress of William Prince of Orange on the day when he was murdered at Delft by Balthazar Geraarts. It is a plain grey leathern doublet, sprinkled with blood, pierced by the balls, and showing marks of the j powder. By the side of it is the pistol used by the assassin, and two of the fatal bullets. A model of the cabin in which Peter the Great resided while a shipbuilder at Zaandam. A large baby- house, fitted up to show the nature of a Dutch menage, intended by Peter as a present to his wife. Opposite to the Palace of the King of Holland, in the Noord Einde, is the Hew Palace , built in the Gothic style by the late King (who died 18 49), and since his death has been uninhabited. The Royal Library in the Voorhout consists of about 100,000 vols., open to the public on Mon.,Wed., and Fri. Here may be seen the prayer-books, richly adorned with miniatures, of Philip lo Bon, of Catherine de’ Medici and Catherine of Aragon, and a Bible presented to Wil¬ liam and Mary of England at their coronation, with these words in the title-page, in the Queen’s own hand: “ This book was given the king and I at our crownation. Marie R.” Among the MSS. is a copy of the Treaty of Utrecht; the original is in the Archives. The collection of medals (to the num¬ ber of 35,000) and of gems in the same building is very extensive and rich. There are 300 cameos, the greater part antique—among them, the apotheosis of Claudius, one of the largest known, and of fine workmanship. Among the modern cameos, a portrait of Queen Elizabeth is very fine. The lover of the fine arts ought not to quit the Hague without visiting the Pri¬ vate Cabinets of M. Weimar (chiefly miniatures), Noordeinde and of M. Steengracht, on the Yijverberg, which contains fine works of Teniers , Jan Steen , Mieris , Van der Velde , Metzu , Backhuysen , Rembrandt ; 2 portraits by Van der Heist , 2 by C. Netscher , a Paul Potter , 2 portraits by Gerard Dow , a De Hooghe ; and in the first room are some good modern Dutch pictures. The cabinet of the late Baron de Westreenen, bequeathed by him to the nation, in his house, now Museum Meermanno-Westreenen, Princessen-Gracht, contains, besides a fine collection of coins and antiquities, several works of early art. There are specimens of Byzantine art and works of Cimabue , Giotto , Duccio , Ambrogio Lauratti , J. van Dyck, and of the early schools of Florence, Pisa, and Sienna. Statues. —A fine bronze Statue of William I., Prince of Orange, by M. Royer, stands in the middle of the Plein , near the Museum. His faithful dog bears him company (see Delft). Statue of William II., King of the Netherlands, in the Buitenhof, erected by the nation, 1853. Equestrian Statue 36 ROUTE 2. —THE HAGUE. BOSCH. SCHEVENINGEN. Sect. I. of William I. (the Silent), Prince of Orange, opposite the King’s Palace, erected 1854. English Ch. service on Sundays at 11 and 7, in an iron ch. brought over from England and set down in the Kazernc Straat, 7 min. walk from the Bellevue. Huygens, the inventor of the pendu¬ lum clock, and William III. of England, were natives of the Hague. A number of tame storks may be seen stalking about in the Fish Market, where a small house like a dog-kennel has been built for them. They are kept at the public expense for the same reason that bears are kept at Berne and eagles at Geneva—because the arms of the Hague are a stork. The Stadhuis, though small, is interest¬ ing (b. 1564), its fa 9 ade ornamented with carving and statues, surmounted by a tower. The Post Office (Postkantoor ) is in the Place, adjoining the Stadhuis and the Groote Kerb. Telegraph Office, Bin- nenhof. In the Theatre (Schomvhurg , at the angle of the Wijde Voorhout ) French operas are performed twice a week, and Dutch twice, in autumn and winter. There is a brass-cannon foundry at the Hague, opposite the Malihaan. P)e Boer's Bazaar , Zee Straat, on way to Scheveningen, has a wonderful col¬ lection of Chinese and Japanese cu¬ riosities, bronzes, jewels, &c. Persons are admitted on laying out a small trifle. At Enthoven’s Antiquity shop ladies will find a large collection of old lace , porcelain, &c. Things are cheaper at Hotter dam. At the Hague the water is more stag¬ nant than in almost any other part of Holland. Though so near the sea, the canals and streams do not empty them¬ selves into it, on the contrary flow from it. A steam-engine outside the town raises up water from the Dunes and con¬ veys it to the Yijverberg, whose stagnant water it displaces into the canals, and, at last, effecting a feeble current through the Hague, pushes out a portion into the canal leading to Delft. From Delft the water barely flows to the borders of the Meuse, above Rotterdam, where it is again pumped up and discharged into that river. This may be well seen in a clear day from the top of St. James's church. X On the outskirts of the town, about a mile distant, at the side of the road to Haarlem, lies the palace called the House in the Wood (’T lluis in’t Bosch), now the private residence of the Queen of the Netherlands. The billiard-room is hung round with family portraits— among them the Governor of Friesland by Van Dyk, and the children of Charles I. by Netscher. The great hall, called Oranje Zaal (Orange Hall), Avas built by a Princess of Solms, grand¬ mother of our William III., and deco¬ rated Avith paintings in honour of her husband, Prince Frederick Henry of Orange. “ It is painted on eA r cry side, and every recess and corner has some allegorical story by Jordaens, Yan Tul- den, Licvens, or Ilondthorst. The dif¬ ferent hands that haA r e been here em¬ ployed make variety, it is true, but it is variety of wretchedness. A triumphal entry, by Jordaens, is the best, and this is but a confused business : the only part which deserves any commendation is the four horses of the chariot, which are well painted. It is remarkable that the foremost leg of each horse is raised, which gives them the formality of trained soldiers.”— P. The picture no doubt displays much bad taste and drawing ; but the group of female prisoners and that of Yenus and her nymphs have all the brilliant transpa¬ rency of Rubens’ colouring. The next in merit is that of Neptune stilling the tempest—“ Quos ego,” also by Jordaens. The apartments which surround this hall were added afterwards. Some of the rooms are hung with Chinese silk. The Bosch, or Wood , a dull park, nearly 2 m. long, abounds in forest- trees, and is one of the feAV spots in Holland Avhere they are allowed to grow as nature intended them, undip¬ ped, and in their natural luxuriance. A military band plays here on Wed. and Sun. afternoons. Scheveningen, about 3 m. from the Hague, on the sea-shore, is a fishing Holland. ROUTE 2. —HAGUE TO LEIDEN. 37 village of 6000 Inliab. It is much frequented by the aristocracy of Hol¬ land, though it is perhaps the dearest and least satisfactory of bathing- places in Europe. The carriages of the Dutch Tramway Company leave the Hague every half-hour for Schcvcn- ingen. Fare 20 and 30 cents. The road from the Hague to Schcveningen passes through a long avenue of trees, and is one of the most pleasant walks in Holland. A little to the right of the road on returning is Zorgvliet, once the residence of the poet Jacob Cats : a stone tablet at which he used to write, with a hole cut in it for an inkstand, is shown in the garden. The costume worn by the fishwives of Schcveningen is not a little singular; the bonnet can be compared to nothing so appropriately as a coal-scuttle. The fishermen convey their fish to the Hague in carts drawn by dogs ; in returning the master supplies the place of the fish, and may be seen, to use the words of the facetious author of Yathek, u airing himself in a one-dog chaise.” The sand-hills thrown up by the wind along the beach conceal all views of the sea till the traveller is close upon it. Scheveningen was the place from which Charles II. embarked for England at the Restoration ; and here the Prince of Orange landed in 1813, some months before the downfall of Buonaparte. The village originally extended some way beyond the church towards the sea; but that portion of it was swallowed up by a dreadful inundation, 1570. To the right of the village, in the midst of a desert of undulating sand¬ hills (see Dunes, § 12), is a pavilion of the late Queen of Holland; and, be¬ yond it, the Old and New Bathing Establishments , which unite the accom¬ modations of an Hotel and Cafe with warm baths ; while bathing- machines are provided on the shore for those who prefer a cold bath in the sea. The old house belongs to the Corpora¬ tion of the Hague, and prices are fixed by tariff. The charges are very high; those of the New Bath-house more moderate. Apartments let at 3, 2, and 1 guilders per diem; but an allow¬ ance is made to persons who take up their abode for several weeks. Tablc- d’hote (open Tafel) at 4, 2 fl.; a bottle of vin ordinaire, 1 fl. 50 c; dinner in private, from 1 fl. 50 c. to 2 fl. 50. c.; breakfast with tea or coffee, 60 c.; a warm bath, 1 fl. 10 c.; a bathing- machine, 1 fl. Fish may be had here in great perfection, and are generally eaten at breakfast. Railway, Hague to Leiden. —Trains 5 times a day to Leiden, 10 miles (£ hour), Haarlem, Amsterdam, and 6 times to Rotterdam. rt. See the spire of the ch. of Voor- burg , a small hamlet E. of the Hague, near the site of the Forum Hadriani of the Romans. Remains of Roman build¬ ings, baths, broken pottery, utensils, and other articles of much interest, have been dug up here, and arc now to be seen in the museum at Leiden. Near Voorburg isHofwyk, the house where the brothers Huygens lived. (See Rte. 10.) Between the Hague and Leiden are many country houses and gardens, with their meandering walks, formal clipped hedges, and parterres cut in patterns filled with flowers. There is an undu¬ lation in the surface of the ground, which shows that this part of the coun¬ try was originally in a great degree composed of Dunes (§ 12) similar to those now forming along the sea-shore. Nieuwer Oosteindo St at. Voorschoten Stat. The narrowed stream of the Rhine is crossed near Vink, before reaching Lei¬ den, by a timber bridge with 5 openings, one of which is furnished with sliding- platforms, in order to allow the masts of vessels to pass. The Leiden station stands on such bad ground that it was necessary to construct a raft, placed upon oak piles, to receive the foundation of the building. 37 m. Leiden Stat. —No good Inn. Hotel Verhaaf, or Burg. Linden may 38 ROUTE 2. —LEIDEN. THE SIEGE. Sect. T. be seen by non-scientific travellers in 3 or4 hrs., leaving luggage at the stat. Take a vigilante at 1 gr. the hr. Leiden, situated on that branch of the Rhine which alone retains its ori¬ ginal name as far as the sea, and which here resembles an artificial canal, has 38,300 Inhab., but is built to hold 90,000. In its present name may still be traced that which the Romans gave it— Lugdunum Batavorum. In the centre of the town is the fragment of a round tower, de Burg, built on a mound of earth: it is said to have been raised by Drusus, though attributed by some to the Anglo-Saxon Hengist. There is a walk round the top of it, but it is not suffi¬ ciently high to afford a good view of the town. It stands in a tea-garden, and 10 cents, or 2 stivers, is charged to each person for admission. Leiden has 8 gates, and is surrounded by a moat, and ramparts which have been tastefully ar¬ ranged as public walks. It is divided by the Rhine into 50 islets joined by 145 stone bridges. The Town Hall (Stadhuis ), in the Breedstraat (Broad Street, the prin¬ cipal and longest in the town), is a singular but picturesque old building, erected in 1574. In the council and audience chambers, on the first floor, are several pictures: among them the Last Judgment, by Lucas Van Leyden , an extraordinary composition, but which must be judged with reference to the period when it was done—it has been much injured; a Crucifixion, by Corne¬ lius Engelbrecht; several good portraits of the city guard, by Vanschooten. There is a picture by Van Tree, a modern artist, together with a portrait, by Govert Flinch , of the burgomaster, Peter Van- derwerf, who so bravely defended the town during the memorable siege of 1574, and here, with inflexible forti¬ tude, resisted the summons to surrender made by the starving and tumultuous mob of townsfolk, when they broke into the council-chamber. Here is the shop- board of Jan Beukeler, the Anabaptist leader, better known as John of Leiden. Leiden has been rendered celebrated in the annals of the Low Countries, I and, indeed, in the history of the world, by the siege which it endured from the Spaniards under Yaldcz in 1573-4. The defence of the place was intrusted to John Vanderdoes; the burgomaster of the town was Pieter Adrianzoon Van- derwerf; and the example of heroism and endurance afforded by the citizens under their guidance has not been sur¬ passed in any country. When Vander- does was urged by Valdez to surrender, he replied, in the name of the inhabit¬ ants, that “ when provisions failed them they would devour their left hands, re¬ serving their right to defend their liberty.” For nearly four months the inhabitants had held out without mur¬ muring ; every individual, even to the women and children, taking a share in the defence. For seven weeks bread had not been seen within the walls; provisions had been exhausted, and the horrors of famine had driven the be¬ sieged to appease their hunger with the flesh of horses, dogs, cats, and other foul animals ; roots and weeds were eagerly sought for. So strictly was the block¬ ade maintained, that every attempt on the part of their friends to throw in pro¬ visions had failed. Pestilence came in the train of famine, and carried off at least 6000 of the inhabitants, so that the duty of burying them was almost too severe for those who were left, worn out by fatigue, watching, and emacia¬ tion. At length two carrier pigeons flew into the town, bearing tidings that relief was at hand. The Prince of Orange had finally adopted the deter¬ mination of cutting the dykes of the Maas and IJssel, to relieve the heroic town. As this fearful alternative could not be resorted to without involving in ruin the whole province of Holland, it is not to be wondered at that it was only adopted after much hesitation and as a last resource. But the inundation, even when the water was admitted, did not produce the anticipated results; although the country between Gouda, Dort, Rot¬ terdam, and Leiden was submerged, it only rose a few feet. The flotilla of 200 boats, built by the Prince of Orange at Rotterdam, and manned by 800 Zealand¬ ers under Boisot, destined for the relief of the town, was thus prevented ap- Holland . ROUTE 2.—LEIDEN. UNIVERSITY. 39 pro aching it, though the inhabitants coulcl easily descry it from their walls. Then it was that, driven frantic by dis¬ appointment as well as suffering, they approached, in a tumultuous mob, the burgomaster, and demanded from him, peremptorily, bread or the surrender of the town. “ I have sworn to defend this city,” answered the heroic governor, “ and by God’s help I mean to keep that oath. Bread I have none ; but, if my body can afford you relief and enable you to prolong the defence, take it and tear it to pieces, and let those who are most hungry among you share it.” Such noble devotion was not without its effect: the most clamorous were abashed, and they all retired in silence; but, for¬ tunately the misery of the besieged was now nearly at an end, and another power above that of man effected the relief of the town of Leiden. The wind, which had for many weeks been in the N.E., changed to the n.w., driving the tide up the river ; it then suddenly veered to the s., and one of those violent and continued storms which, even when the dykes arc entire, cause such anxiety for the safety of the country, acting with accumulated violence upon the waters, widened the breaches already cut in the dykes, and drove in the flood upon the land with the force of an over¬ whelming torrent. The inundation not only spread as far as the walls of Leiden, but with such suddenness that the ram¬ parts thrown up by the Spaniards were surrounded, and more than 1000 of their soldiers were overwhelmed by the flood. The same tide which swept them away carried the flotilla of boats of the Prince of Orange, laden with provisions, to the gates of Leiden. An amphibious battle was fought among the branches of the trees, partly on the dykes, partly in boats, and in the end the Spaniards, who had boasted that it was as impossible for the Dutch to save Leiden from their hands as to pluck the stars from heaven, were driven from their palisades and entrenchments. This almost miraculous deliverance took place on the 3rd of Oc¬ tober, 1574, a day still commemorated by the citizens. As an additional proof of Divine interference on this occasion, the Dutch historians remark that the wind from the s.w., which had carried the water up to the walls, after three days turned to the n.e., so as effectually I to drive it back again. Thus it might I well bo said that both wind and water fought in the defence of Leiden.—(See Motley’s ‘Rise of the Dutch Republic.’) The spirit which then animated the Dutch nation is by no means extinct, as i their patriotic exertions after the sepa- ; ration of their country from Belgium, in 1830, have shown. At the first call the whole of the students of this and other Dutch universities quitted their studies, and, enrolling themselves into j a corps, marched to the frontier, and I not only distinguished themselves in j the conflicts that took place, but re- i mained in arms for the space of one year as volunteers. The University is remarkable, not only as one of the most distinguished schools of learning in Europe, and for the interesting and valuable museums attached to it, but also on account of its origin and foundation, which dates from the time of the siege. The Prince of Orange, with the view of rewarding the citizens for the bravery they dis¬ played on that occasion, gave them the choice of two privileges—either an exemption from certain taxes, or a uni¬ versity : much to their credit they chose the latter. It at one time at¬ tained so high a reputation for learning, that Leiden earned the appellation of the Athens of the "West. In the list of its distinguished professors and scholars it numbers Grotius and Descartes, Sal- masius, Scaliger, and Boerhaave, who was professor of medicine. Evelyn, Goldsmith, and many other celebrated Englishmen, studied here. Arminius and Gomarus, the authors of the rival doctrines in religion named after them, were professors here, and the memor¬ able controversy between them com¬ menced in the University. Leiden still affords excellent opportunities to the student of medicine or natural history, from the extent and value of its collec¬ tions in all departments. The building of this University is not distinguished for its architecture. The Academical j Senate Hall, in which degrees are con- 40 ROUTE 2.—LEIDEN. MUSEUM. Sect. I. ferred, contains over the mantel-piece a likeness of the founder, and its walls are ; covered from top to bottom with more than 100 portraits of professors, from the time of Scaliger down to the pre¬ sent. There are at present about 400 students, mostly of law. The Museum of Natural History in the Papengracht (open daily from 12 to 3) is one of the richest and most exten¬ sive in Emope, especially in all the productions of the Dutch colonics in the East, Java, Japan, the Cape, Surinam, and West Indies : there are many rare specimens not to be found elsewhere, very excellently preserved, and the whole is admirably arranged, under Professor Yan der Iloeven. The department of Birds is enriched by the collection made by M. Tem- minck, perhaps the finest in Europe. The cabinet of Comparative Anatomy is one of the most complete in Europe. It contains preparations and skeletons of animals from the camelopard down to the mouse, and is well arranged, but is interesting only to the student and man of science. Among the shells are specimens of those which produce pearl, and of the pearl itself in all its different stages of formation ; also portions of the wooden piles which support the dykes on some parts of the Dutch coast, perforated by the teredo to such an extent that the total ruin of the dykes was at one time apprehended. Luckily the danger did not spread very far, and the threatened scourge disappeared. It is supposed that the worm had been brought over from the tropical seas in the timber of some vessel, but that it had been killed in a few seasons by the rigour of a northern climate. Means have been taken since its appearance to guard against the danger in future. The dykes arc now protected at their base by stones brought from Norway or Toumay, and the lock-gates are coppered. Among the minerals a mass of native gold, from the island of Aruba, weigh¬ ing 17 lbs., a large crystal of emerald, and an unset topaz, of a brownish- yellow colour, from Ceylon, the largest in Europe, should not be overlooked. Among the insects are various spe- | cimens of spectrum, nearly a foot long ; also the leaf insect. The Egyptian Museum (het Museum van Oudlieden), in the Brecdc Straat, under the able direction of Dr. C. Lee- mans, includes numerous valuable and highly interesting monuments, partly historical, partly illustrative of the mode of life of that ancient people. The Papyri, some musical instruments, in¬ scriptions, numerous fine stone tablets of a very early period, a monolithic temple, cut out of a single huge block of red granite, many sarcophagi and mummies, as well as rich ornaments in gold and precious stones, offer abundant interest to the learned antiquary and to the curious traveller. Of jewellery and trinkets, once, doubtless, the delight of the ladies of Thebes, and such as were borrowed by the children of Israel on their departure from Egypt, there is a large assortment. A massive armlet of solid gold bears the name of a king (Thotmes II.), who is supposed to have been the oppressor of the Israel¬ ites ; if so, it may possibly have been seen by Moses himself. The Museum also embraces many ancient objects of Roman art; an Etruscan statue of a boy holding a goose in his arms is curious for the style of art. Six monu¬ mental fragments, bearing Punic in¬ scriptions, were brought from the ruins of Carthage. There are, besides, a number of colossal Indian statues and other objects here. A heap of broken pottery and other objects discovered at Yoorburg, near the Hague, are curious relics of the Roman settlement in this country. The Agricultural collections in Leiden are very eminent. The Library is very extensive, and contains some of the rarest oriental MSS. known, collected in the East by Golius in the 17th century. The * Japanese Collection, in the Breede Straat, under the care of Dr. C. Leemans (open daily, 9 to 3 ; fee for each person ^ guilder) is decidedly the finest and most extensive in Europe, and was formed by Dr. Siebold, a German physician, in. Holland. 41 ROUTE 2. —BOTANICAL the course of a residence in Japan of 8 years, some of which were spent in prison. It is interesting not only from the number of the articles, but from their careful and judicious arrange¬ ment. It unites everything from the most common to the most rare and j valuable objects relating to the mode of life, manners and customs, &c., of the Japanese. It contains implements of husbandry; whatever is used for ordinary domestic purposes; dresses, arms, tools, vases—many of them re¬ markable for their workmanship as well as their antiquity; models; well-exe¬ cuted sketches ; coloured drawings ; a library of printed books, MSS., and maps ; a complete set of musical instru¬ ments ; idols, and even the sacred ob¬ jects appertaining to their worship, an altar, and the furniture of the temple ; a series of Japanese coins and medals, and a complete set of Chinese coins, from the 2nd century before our era. The Botanical Garden is famous for its early directors—Linnaeus, Boerhaave, Clusius, and others—and is still a use¬ ful and instructive school of botany. Those who look for fine hothouses and pretty gardens will be disappointed. The collection of plants is very ex¬ tensive, and is preserved in excellent order, under the care of Mr. 'Wette. In the conservatories are reared the cinnamon, cinchona (from which come bark and quinine), coffee, cotton, ma¬ hogany, &c., and a fine collection of orchids. Ohs. out of doors, a Salishuria 50 ft. high; a Gliditschia and Catalpa of great size; also the trunk of a tree, which has been sawn asunder, and shows in the very centre an iron tri¬ dent or fork buried in the middle of the wood. The large open space, called de Ituinc, in the street named Rapenhurg , now planted with trees, was formerly covered with houses, 300 of which were demolished in 1807 by the fearful ex¬ plosion of a barge laden with gun¬ powder, while lying in the canal, in the very heart of the town. 150 persons were killed. The accident is said to , GARDEN. CHURCHES. j have been caused by the bargemen ; frying bacon on the deck. In the Church of St. Peter , built 1315, of brick, is the monument of Boer¬ haave, the physician, with the modest j inscription, “ Salutifero Boerhaavii | Genio sacrumsurrounded by others in memory of the most distinguished worthies of the University, as Dodo- noeus, Spanheim, the two Meermans, Clusius, Scaliger, Camper, and others. Among them is one of a professor J. Luzac, killed by the explosion of 1807, representing him in bas-relief, in the state in which he was found after his death. Here is a flamboyant rood- screen ; wood, with brass mullions. In the Church of St. Pancras , called the Hooglandsche Kerk, remarkable for its long transepts, is the monument of the brave burgomaster Vanderwerf, who refused to yield up the town to the Spaniards. The most frequented Promenade is without the walls, close by the side of that branch of the Bhine which waters and surrounds the town, shaded by a double row of trees. In the neighbour¬ hood of Leiden are the retreats of several distinguished men. In the Chateau of Endegeest (on the way to Katwyk) Descartes wrote many of his works; and the country seat of Boerhaave still bears his name. Leiden is surrounded by windmills ; but they who inquire for that in which Benibrandt was born will learn that the one in which the painter is said to have been born, 1606, has long since been removed. It is recorded that his father, Herman Gerretz van Bhyn, was owner of a corn-mill, situated between Layerdorp and Koukerk. Otto Ven- nius, master of Bubens, 1556, Jan Steen, 1636, Gerard Douw, W. Yande- velde, Mieris, and many other distin¬ guished painters, were born here; as were the Elzevirs, famous printers, known by the editions of the classics bear¬ ing their name, and printed in Leiden. [About 8 m. from Leiden, on the sea¬ shore, is Katwijh , where the expiring Bhine is helped to discharge itself into the sea by means of a canal with gi- 42 ROUTE 2. — RAILROAD FROM LEIDEN TO HAARLEM. Sect. I. gantic sluice-gates. The mouth of the filmic had remained closed from the year 840, when a violent tempest heaped up an impenetrable harrier of sand at its embouchure, until 1809, when the sluices were formed. As long as the river was left to itself, it was lost before it reached the sea in the vast beds of sand which it there encountered, and which either lay below the level ot the tides, or were so flat that water could hardly pass through or drain off them. Thus only a small part of the Rhine, dribbling into insignificant streams, ever found its way out: the rest settled into stagnant pools, con¬ verting the whole district into a pesti¬ lential morass. To remedy this evil, and also to give a new outlet to the Haarlemmer Meer and to the super¬ fluous waters of the district of the Rijnland, a wide artificial channel has been formed, provided with a triple set of sluices; the first having 2 pair, the second 4 pair, and the last, nearest the sea, 7 pair of gates. When the tide flows the gates are shut to prevent the entrance of the sea, which at high water rises against them 12 ft., and the level of the sea on the outside is equal if not above that of the canal within. During ebb-tide the flood-gates are opened by means of machinery for 5 or 6 hours, to allow the accumulated streams to pass out, and, in their passage, to clear away the sands collected by the waves on the outside. It has been calculated that the volume of water passing out in a second equals 100,000 cubic ft. When the sea is much agitated, and the wind, blowing towards the shore, pre¬ vents the tide retiring to its usual dis¬ tance, it is impossible to open the gates at all. The dykes which have been raised at the entrance of the canal, and on the sea-shore, are truly stupendous ; they are founded upon piles driven into the loose sand, and faced with solid masonry of limestone from Tournay. These hydraulic works were executed during the reign of King Louis Buo¬ naparte by an engineer named Conrad ; his name has been erased (because the inscription contained some praise of his master) from the work which does him so much credit, and confers so great a benefit on the surrounding district. But his services have not been forgotten by the powers that be, since, after his premature death, his three infant sons were educated and provided for at the public expense. This exit of the Rhine presents nothing very striking to the eye. The sight of a set of flood-gates, even though they surpass in strength and ingenuity any similar construction in Europe, will hardly repay a traveller who docs not take a particular interest in such subjects for making a detour to Katwijk. Besides, there is hardly sufficient iden¬ tity with the Rhine in this diminished stream to arouse the imagination. This channel, it is true, retains conventionally the name of the Rhine; but the great river whose infant stream rises from under the glaciers of Mount Adula, and which, after collecting from a thousand tributaries the melted snows of the Alps, forms a barrier between mighty nations, and pours its full stream among the sunny and vine-clad slopes of the Rheingau, and beneath the frowning and bristling crags of the Lurley and Ehrenbreitstein, now finds its way to the ocean by other channels. Close to the shore are salt-works and evaporating houses, where the sea-water is pumped up to the top of a large building with open sides, and allowed to trickle over faggots with which it is filled. It is thus treated several times, losing each time many of its watery particles, by the exposure to the air and sun, until at last it is converted to strong brine, and is transported to Leiden to be boiled.] Railroad from Leiden to Haarlem and Amsterdam :—trains 9 times a-day in 1 hr. to Haarlem, 18 m. to Rot¬ terdam, 23 m., 5 times a-day. Warm on d Stat., rt. see the College for Rom. Catholic priests. Travellers interested about the draining of the Haarlem lake or machinery should stop at Warmond, and take a carriage from the inn there and go and see the Leegh- water-engine (see further on). Those who stop at Leiden will do better in taking a carriage thence, as the distance is not much greater from Leiden than Holland. ROUTE 2. —IIAARLEM. ORGAN. 43 from Warmond; and, after having- seen the Leeg-hwater, they may either return to Leiden or proceed to War¬ mond stat. About two-thirds of the distance from Leiden to Warmond the railway crosses the “ Warmonder Lecde,” one of the navigable canals, which at the same time act as drains for conveying water from the interior of the country into the sea by the dykes of Katwijk, The centre opening of the bridge here is of a novel construction, on the system of a sliding-bridge. The nature of the soil between Leiden and the “ Warmonder Leedc ” was such as to render it neces¬ sary to form the railway on fascines or faggots. The line is partly cut through bare sand-hills, the E. extremity of the Dunes (§ 12). Piet-Gyzenbrug Stat. Veenenburg Stat. Ilillegomcrbeek Stat. Vogelenzang Stat. Here is the steam- engine for pumping up the fresh water from a reservoir of 7 acs., among the dunes of Haarlem, to supply the city of Amster¬ dam , a work effected by British capital in 1855. The conduit passes under nu¬ merous canals in flexible or jointed pipes, and crosses the great sluices at Halfweg. Near Bennebroek.the canal of Leiden and the high road are both crossed by a trelliswork bridge, 177 ft. in length, and at an angle of 30° with the canal. Linnseus resided long in the house of Hartekamp, near Benncbroek, then in¬ habited by the rich merchant Clifford, whose name and collection he has immor¬ talised in his work, the Hortus Clitfor- dianns. Ho also composed his ‘ System of Natural History’ while living there. On approaching Haarlem the num¬ ber of country scats greatly increases. About 3 m. before reaching Haarlem, a little off the high road, is the ruined castle of Teilingen, the residence of the celebrated and unfortunate Jacqueline. 61 m.— Haarlem Stat., N. side of town. Here refreshments may be ob¬ tained, and baggage left. An hour or two will suffice for II aarlem. A street leads N. and S. from the station through the town, passing the market-place and the great Church, to the Houtpoort (gate of tho wood), ^ hr’s. walk. Within the park or public garden, called the Ilout (wood), which is one of the boasts of Haarlem, 10 min. walk outside the gate, is the Pavilion , a house built by M. Hope, the banker, of Amsterdam, sold afterwards to Louis Buonaparte. It now belongs to the King, and the lower story is converted into a picture- gallery to contain the works of modern Dutch artists, formerly at the Hague. There are some fine pictures in this collection, among which may be noted the following:— Bosboom. —Interior of the church at Breda, with the mausoleum of Count Engelbert II. of Nassau. Davidson .— Italian Ladies. Kruseman. —A view of the Hague. Eeckhout. —A sick lady vi¬ sited by her physician ; the Marriage of Jaqucline of Bavaria and John IV., Duke of Brabant. Jolly. —An interior; a woman stanching the wounds of a soldier. Verboehhoven. — Landscape with cattle. Kruseman. —Elijah and the Shunamite woman; Philip II. taking- leave of William of Orange, 1559 ; Girl sleeping; the Descent to the Tomb. Maas .—The Good Samaritan. Meyer. —Wreck of the William I. on the coral rock of Lucipara, 1837. Navez .—The meeting of Isaac and Pebecca. Noel. —A Vintner caressing a young girl. Pieneman. —De Pijk, be¬ fore the Governor Itequesens ; Heroism of Hambrock on the Isle of Formosa, 1663; Battle of Waterloo, the Prince of Orange wounded by the side of the Duke of Wellington at Waterloo. Ve- rolvet. —The Church of St. Peter, Pome. Waldorp .—Marine views. Payen .— Views in Java. Godercharle. —(Sculp¬ ture) Venus taking water with a shell. OpcnTues., Thurs., Sat.,and Sun., from 10 till 4. On other days admission may be had by strangers on paying a fee of 25-50 cents. Haarlem. Inns: Lion d’Or (Gouden Leeuw), Zyl Straat; good; — Crown (in tho Market-place opposite Great Ch.). Haarlem is situated on the Spaarn: it has 29,500 Inhab., just half of what it once contained. The most remarkable thing hero is the * Organ in the Great Church of St. Bavon. “ This has been long one of the best established lions of 44 ROUTE 2.—HAARLEM. ORGAN. PRINTING. Sect. I. the Continent, and must he owned alike 1 by the few and by the many to merit 1 its high reputation. It was built by Christian Muller of Amsterdam, in 1738, and was for many years assumed to be the largest and finest organ in the world. Recently it has been surpassed in scale by our own instruments at York and Birmingham, and, it is said, by the new organ at Rotterdam, and rivalled, if not outdone, as to quality, by Mooser’s capital organ at Fribourg in Switzerland. The number of pipes is 5000, the number of stops 60; it has 3 manuals (rows of keys for the hands) and a pedal-board (for the feet). The organist’s fee is 12 guilders (17.), and 1 gl. for the blower, for his performance at private hours (precisely double his honorarium in Dr. Burney’s time) : it matters not how large the party. At this private performance the player makes a liberal but tasteless exhibition of the solo stops in turn, including that which imitates bells and the far-famed vox lmmana stop, and winding up with ‘ The Storm,’ a piece of clap-trap music in the obsolete stylo of ‘ The Battle of Prague.’ When 1 The Storm ’ is over strangers are invited to ascend into the organ-loft to examine the instrument; they may also pro¬ cure a specification of the stops, &e., from the organist. Every Tues. and Thm's., from 1 to 2, a selection of music is played, to which all the world is admitted gratuitously. The supre¬ macy of the Haarlem organ lies in its great and general beauty and sweetness of tone ; since, without dis¬ paragement of the marvels so dear to the valets-de-place, every musician must agree with Burney, who remarked (a propos of this very instrument) that ‘ all these enormous machines seem loaded with useless stops, or such as contribute to augment noise and to stiffen the touch.’ The vox lmmana stop is to be heard in as great perfection at Gouda, and in more eminent and speaking beauty at Fribourg. In any case such travellers as are unwilling to expend a sovereign for their solitary delectation may content themselves with the public exhibition, for in this the exhibited without their being put through the puppet-show antics dis¬ tasteful to every true musician. Pro¬ bably a slight fee will procure for thoso desiring it the inspection of the instru¬ ment. But neither in public nor in private must the amateur expect to be regaled by a great player interpreting the great music befitting such a great organ.”— II. F. C. There are 5000 pipes in this, and 4500 in the York organ. The greatest metal pipe at Haarlem is 15 inches in diameter, that of York 20 inches; the Haarlem organ lias only 2 pipes 32 feet in length and 8 of 16 feet, while that of York has four of 32 feet and 20 of 16 feet. The church itself is very high ; the nave is divided from the choir by a very fine rood-screen of brass and wood, orna¬ mented with curious grotesque figures (opossums with pouches buckled on their backs) and foliage. In one of the walls a cannon-ball still remains imbedded, a relic of the memorable siege by the Spaniards in 1572. Here are monu¬ ments to Conrad, who built the Katwyk sluices (d. 1808\and to Bilderdijk, the Dutch poet and friend of Southey (d. 1831). The Dutch nation, and the inhabit¬ ants of Haarlem in particular, are very anxious to obtain for their townsman, Laurence J anszoon Coster, the credit of the invention of Printing, grounding his claims upon a dubious local tradi¬ tion, which cannot be traced farther back than the middle of the 16th cen¬ tury, and upon this passage in the Chronicle of Cologne (date 1499) :—- u Before the art of printing was in¬ vented at Mainz, they had printed in Holland, as is proved by the Donatus but no mention is here made of Coster. His statue is placed in the open market¬ place, near St. Bavon, fronting the house where he lived. In the Stadhuis are pre¬ served one or two small folios without date or printer’s name, of the kind called block books, each page being printed in a common ink from a single block, said to be of 1428 (twelve years before Gutem- ; another, “ Spiegel der ehoudenisse (Speculum Salvationis),” in double co- berg’s attempt) | Menschelijke B organ and its component stops are fairly j humanoe Holland. route 2. HAARLEM. TULIPS. 45 lurnn and printing ink, is referred to the year 1440. Along with them are 1 shown specimens of the original blocks, or wooden types, invented and used by j Coster. He may possibly have origin¬ ated the idea of taking otf impressions with ink upon paper from solid wooden blocks. His attempts were made, it is said, as early as 1420-25, and may have led the way to the perfection of the invention. This seems to he the exact extent of his claim to the discovery. The merit of forming moveable metal types , or single letters cast in a mould, capable of being employed in many books successively—in fact, the art of printing—is now proved, almost beyond a doubt, to belong to John Gutemberg, of Mayence. The Dutch, however, do not abate their claims, and a controver- j sial war is still waged on the subject. The arguments in favour of Coster may be seen in Ottley, History of Engraving , vol. i. Haarlem still possesses a type- foundry, celebrated especially for He¬ brew and Greek types cast in it. Tiie Stadhuis, an edifice older than the siege (although 1630-33 is inscribed on it), also contains a collection of cu¬ rious paintings, formerly dispersed in hospitals and convents in Haarlem,— including 8 excellent portrait-pictures of officers of archers, governors of hos¬ pitals, &e., by Franz Hals , a painter whose high eminence is little known in England, but who may here be ap¬ preciated ; Heemskirh , St. Luke paint¬ ing the Virgin; and C. Cornelisz, portraits of archers, &c. Here is also a collection of antiquities, among them the first efforts of Koster in printing; and a Flag carried at the siege of 1573. Admission \ 10 to 3; fee 25 cents. Haarlem is also famous for its *hya- j cinths , tulips , and other flowers, which grow not only in gardens, but in open fields of many hundred acres, in the utmost luxuriance and beauty, in a soil particularly congenial to them, viz. an artificial combination of light sand with rotted cow-dung; while water lies so near the surface that their roots readily find nourishment during the time of growth, the dry season. The hya- j cinths are at their best during the first 1 half, the tulips during the second half; of April: then the beds are in their greatest beauty; but it is at other seasons worth while to visit one of the numerous Nursery Gardens (Blocmcn Tuin) in the S. outskirts of the town where there is at all times something to be seen, and where roots and seeds may be purchased. The gardens of a great part of Europe are supplied from Haar¬ lem ; but the trade in tulips is not carried on as in the days of the Tulipo- mania , and 100 florins is now a very large sum for a root. “ The enormous prices that were actually given for real tulip bulbs, of particular kinds, formed but a small fraction of the extent to which the mercantile transactions in this gaudy flower were carried. Beckman states on Dutch authorities that 400 perils in weight (something less than a grain) of the bulb of a tulip named Admiral Leif- ken , cost 4400 fl. ; and 200 of another, named Semper Augustus, 2000 fl. Of this last, he tells us, it once happened there were only two roots to be had, the one at Amsterdam, the other at Haarlem; and that for one of these were offered 4600 fl., a new carriage, two grey horses, and a complete set of harness; and that another person offered 12 acres of land. The truth is, that these tulip-roots were never bought or sold, but they became the medium of a systematised species of gambling. The bulbs, and their divisions into perits , became like the different stocks in our public funds, and were bought and sold at different prices from day to day, the parties settling their account at fixed periods; the innocent tulips all the while never once appearing in the transactions. ‘ Before the tulip season was over/ says Beckman, 1 more roots were sold and purchased, bespoke and promised to be delivered, than in all probability were to be found in the gardens of Holland; and when Semper Augustus was not to be had anywhere, which happened twice, no species per¬ haps was oftener purchased and sold.’ This kind of sheer gambling reached at length to such a height, that the go¬ vernment found it necessary to inter¬ fere and put a stop to it.”— Family Tour in South Holland. Sect. I. 46 ROUTE 2.— HAARLEM. MUSEUMS. SIEGE. The Teylerian Museum , an institution for the promotion of learning, founded by an opulent merchant, after whom it is named, contains a few good paintings of modern Dutch artists, a remarkable collection of prints, especially rich in works of A. Ostade; and a collection of coins and fossils : among the latter are one or two specimens described by Cuvier, including the jaw of a fossil saurian, brought from the celebrated quarries at Maestrieht, 1766, and a la¬ boratory well stored with philosophical instruments. The Haarlem Society possesses a Museum of Natural History. Several Cotton Factories were esta¬ blished in this neighbourhood, under the patronage of William I.: they have increased both in number and the quan¬ tity of goods they manufacture since the separation of Holland from Belgium. There are extensive Bleacheries of linen here : they owe their reputation to some peculiar property supposed to exist in the water. Before the dis¬ covery of bleaching by chlorine, the fine linens made in Silesia, as well as those of Friesland, were sent hither to be bleached; and being then ex¬ ported direct to England, were named after the country from whence they were embarked, not that in which they were made. Such fabrics are still known in commerce by the name of Holland. Haarlem is the birthplace of the painters Wynants, Ostade, Wouver- rnans, Bcrghcm, and Ruisdael. In the environs of Haarlem are nu¬ merous tasteful villas of Amsterdam capitalists and some agreeable Walks, especially those constructed on the site of the ancient Ramparts, which no one should leave unseen. 3 m. N.W. of Haarlem is Bloemendaal (Inn, Zomerzorg) a village of country- seats, at the back of the Dunes (§ 12), which enjoy so mild a climate that small vineyards are planted upon them. The range of sand-hills, 3 m. wide, is one vast rabbit-warren. The highest eminence is the Brederodsehe Berg, or Blue Stairs, 20 min. walls from the Zomerzorg—behind the great Lunatic Asylum. The view from it is very peculiar, extending over Haar¬ lem, the Wyker Meer, the Y, Amster¬ dam, and the windmills of Saardam. At the foot of this hill lie the ruins of the Castle of Brederocle, a brick build¬ ing—seat of the Brcderod.es, one of whom was the leader in the struggle which freed Holland from the yoke of Spain. The citizens of Haarlem even sur¬ passed their neighbours of Leiden in their brave resistance to the Spaniards. The siege of Haarlem preceded that of Leiden; and as the distinguished con¬ duct of its defenders served as an ex¬ ample of patriotism to their fellow- countrymen, so the bloody tragedy which followed it, and the sacrilegious breach of faith on the part of the con¬ querors, lighted up a spirit of resist¬ ance and abhorrence of the Spaniards, which led the way to a long series of martial exploits performed by the Dutch in the sieges of Leiden and Alkmaar, and occasioned in a few short years the total expulsion of their op¬ pressors from Holland. Haarlem was by no means strongly fortified; indeed, its external defences were weak in the eyes of an engineer, and even its re¬ sources within were but small. The garrison was limited to 4000 soldiers, among whom were some Scotch; but every citizen became a soldier for the occasion; nay, not men alone, but even women, bore arms ; and a body of 300, under the guidance of the heroine Kenau Ilasselaer, enrolled themselves in a company, and did duty with shouldered pike and musket. Though the Spaniards had made formidable breaches in the walls near the gates of the Cross and of St. John, two assaults on them had failed; and, after seven months of fruitless hostilities and a loss of 10,000 men, they were com¬ pelled to turn the siege into a blockade. In order to maintain it with the utmost strictness, and to cut off all approach from the water, a fleet of war-boats was introduced upon the Lake of Haarlem • Several attempts on the Holland * route 2.—haaelem. part of their friends to throw in sup¬ plies totally failed; the garrison, having consumed everything within the walls down to the grass which grew between the stones of the streets, and seeing no alternative hut to die of starvation, de¬ termined to place the women and chil¬ dren in their centre, and cut their way through the enemy’s camp. The Spa¬ niards, however, having heard of this, and fearing the effects of their despair, sent a flag of truce, and offered terms of pardon and amnesty, on condition of surrender of the town and 57 of the chief inhabitants. A condition so hard would not have been granted, had not these 57 devoted citizens voluntarily yielded themselves up. "When the Spaniards entered, they found the gar¬ rison of 4000 reduced to 1800. Three days passed, and the promise given by the Spaniards was kept, and the arms of the townspeople were surrendered; hut when all suspicion of treachery was lulled, the bloodhounds of the cruel Alva, and his son Ferdinand of Toledo, were let loose on the unsuspecting and now unarmed citizens. Ripperda, the go¬ vernor, and the 57 were first sacrificed; and afterwards four executioners were called in and kept constantly at work, until 2000 persons, including the Pro¬ testant ministers, the soldiers of the garrison, and many citizens, had been inhumanly butchered in cold blood. Towards the conclusion of the tragedy the executioners hecaine so exhausted, that the remaining victims were tied two and two, and thrown into the Lake of Haarlem. The siege lasted from December, 1572, to July, 1573. Four years after the town again fell into the hands of the Dutch. The excursion through North Holland (Rte. 4) commences here; by following it the traveller may see the most interest¬ ing and primitive part of the country, and reach Amsterdam in 2 or 3 days. Diligence to Alkmaar twice daily. Railroad, Haarlem to Amsterdam, 12 m. Trains 10 times a-day, in 30 min. Omnibuses convey passengers to and from the station at Haarlem APPROACH TO AMSTERDAM. 47 j f° r 15 c. = 3A, and at Amsterdam for 20 c. = 4 cl. The railway bridge over the Spaarne, at Haarlem, is of iron, with six open¬ ings ; the two middle openings have a swing bridge of a very simple and solid construction, which opens and shuts both openings at the same time, to ren¬ der the passage of vessels as rapid as possible, as between 14 and 15 thousand pass through annually. The principal beams are each 75^ ft. long, and were cast in a single piece : the whole bridge weighs upwards of 110 tons, and the machinery for moving it is so perfect, that one man turns it easily in 2 min. The bridge is only shut dur¬ ing the passage of the train: a self¬ acting signal is attached to it. The line throughout, between Haarlem and Amsterdam, is formed on fascines. In marshy spots all the earthworks are laid on beds of fascines more or less extensive according to the nature of the ground. Where the railway tra¬ verses pools of water, the fascines alter¬ nate with beds of rubble, and are held together by stakes and wattles, until the weight of the earth laid upon them becomes settled and the mass consoli¬ dated. The earthwork is chiefly com¬ posed of sand from the sea-beach, and is covered with turf. The road to Amsterdam leads out of a venerable gateway, a relic of the ancient fortifications of the town, which probably withstood the attacks of the Spaniards during the memorable siege. Outside of the gates the traveller has before him a singularly monotonous prospect. The high road to Amster¬ dam runs as straight as an arrow as far as the eye can reach; on one side of it is the equally straight canal, and nearly parallel with it the Railroad; on the other a uniform row of willow- trees. The causeway, elevated above the surrounding country, is carried along the summit of a dyke, originally constructed of prodigious strength, to restrain the waters of the Haarlemmer Meer, which pressed on it on the rt. hand, and divided it from the IJ, an arm of the Zuider Zee, on the 1. 48 ROUTE 2. —LAKE OF HAARLEM. Since the 15th cent, a body of water called the Lake of Haarlem spread itself over, and, in fact, swallowed up, a large portion of the districts known as the Ilijn and Amstel-land. Previous to that time the lake can scarcely he said to have existed, except that a spot in the middle of it, and deep below the surface, was then occupied by a marsh of considerable extent. Several villages, originally at a distance from the water, were surrounded by it, and compelled to assume a sort of amphibious existence, half in and half out of the water. The lake at length expanded over an area of ground 11 leagues in circumference. Nothing hut the strength and perfection of the dykes prevented the bordering districts, already partly below the level of the waters, from being swallowed up in ruin. The annual expense of keeping them in repair was enormous. The States General of Holland at length sanctioned a plan for converting the bed of the lake into arable and pasture land. Operations were commenced in the spring of 1840, by forming a water¬ tight double rampart or dyke and ring canal round the lake, into which the water was pumped up, and discharged through the Katwijk, the Spaame, and the sluices at Halfweg, into the sea. Three enormous pumping engines have been erected, one near Warmond, another opposite the old entrance of the Spaarne into the lake, and the third to the S.E. of Halfweg, and between it and Slooten. The average depth of the lake was 13 ft. below the general level of the surface water of the canal and water-courses conducting to the sea- sluices. The area was-45,230 acres; the estimated contents to he pumped out about 800 or 1000 million tons. At the end of 4 years’ pumping, in¬ terrupted at times by the difficulty of expelling the water through the canal into the sea whenever the wind blew strongly from the N. and N.W., the lake-bed was laid entirely dry in 1853 ; as dry as any land in South Holland can he. In that year 7798 acres were sold, at- an average of 21/. per acre ; 23,423 acres in 1854, for 15/.; and 10,349 acres in 1855, for about the same price. No hones of men or animals, Sect. I. nor any objects of human workmanship, were found in the bed. The Haarlem lake is now converted into a Polder, and its basin is covered with rich crops—meadow and grass— and occupied by numerous hamlets and farm-steadings. Its population amounts to 7250. It maintains 2000 horses, 5786 horned cattle, 9000 sheep and pigs. It is kept dry by the aid of three monster steam-engines, at a cost not much ex¬ ceeding 2s. an acre per ann. They maintain the surface of the water in the drains at 18 in. below the general level of the bottom. The district then laid bare, however, is subject, especially in summer, to low fever, owing to the exhalations from the soil, which has lessened the value of the land in the market. The engine called the Leeghwater (in honour of a celebrated Dutch en¬ gineer, who first proposed to drain the lake in 1623), which is near Warmond, was the first erected. It lifts 11 pumps, each of 63-in. diameter; each pump is furnished with a cast-iron ba¬ lance beam, and, except 3, the balance beams are placed opposite to each other in pairs, with a lift of 13 ft. The engine easily worked the 11 pumps simultaneously, the net load of water lifted being 81 ’7 tons, and the dis¬ charge 63 tons per stroke. The other two engines, called the Cruquius and Van Lyndcn, after two celebrated men who at various periods interested them¬ selves in promoting the drainage of the lake, have about 100 h.p. more than the Leeghwater. The engines were constructed at Ilayle Foundry in Corn¬ wall. A visit to that engine, which stands where the Spaarne entered the Haarlem lake, may be easily made by getting a boat at Haarlem and rowing up the river. Those who don’t like a boat may walk along the path on the eastern bank of the river, at the end of which is a ferry over to the dyke on which the engine stands. The approach to Amsterdam, over causeways traversing a broad expanse of water, resembles that which leads to Mexico. Another coincidence is that the Spaniards were engaged in a nearly UtrecUlj finihrdjr Station 1 The Palace. D 2 Stailhui* .D 3 New Exchange D 4 4 (huh' Eerie .D 3 5 JVieUH'e Kerb C 6 Fnyl.Episc. ih .E 4 7 Scotch J)vjtb Ob... D 4 8 Ibrtiut s . r Synay. . F 4 9 Museum. E 4 ID Fciir Mentis C 6 11 Zeetmaishoop E 3 12 Eiirinppalckety C 2 13 JSieutce Stacie Herbert) ..D 2 14 Amstel bridge F 5 15 Dutch Theatre D 6 16 German Theatre .. E 4 17 French Theatre E 4 18 Salon Jes Varietee 'Ses). D4 19 S. des Tarietes lAmstdstV. E 4 20 Vaudeville Francois..... . I) d 21 Frascati ..D 4 22 Past Office ....... . C4 23 Ealvcr Strxzat D4 D 5 24 Amstel Sluice .. F 5 25 Figure Dylo _ C3 D3 26 Slieutre Marht .. E 3 27 Hoarder JHarht B 3 28 Warmoee Stoat I) 3 29 Schixyet'* Toren . D 2 30 Flower Market D-4 31 XjLlhuul (anal D 1 32 Botanic Garden F 4 Published by John Murray Albemarle Street London Engraved bv J.& C . Walker< Holland. ROUTE 2. -AMSTERDAM. similar contest in both places. During the siege of Haarlem there were fre¬ quent combats of an almost amphibious character, partly in boats, partly on the causeways, between the Dutch and the Spaniards, exactly like those which took place between Cortez and the Mexicans. The Dutch had a second time occasion to resort to the like ex¬ pedient of hooding this part of the country, to resist the armies of Louis XIV.; and, more recently, the same thing was done in the war of the French revolution, Jan. 1795. At Halfweg — half-way between Haarlem and Amsterdam—there is a portage in the canal, here interrupted by the enormous sluices which pre¬ vious to the drainage separated the waters of the I] from those of the Haarlem Lake. The effect of open¬ ing them, and allowing the waters of the to enter the Haarlem Mcer, would have been to submerge a great part of the province of Holland to a distance of 30 m., with an inundation covering not only the meadows, but even the dykes themselves. “ The height of the water is regulated by means of sluices and gauge-posts, marked with very minute divisions; and the greatest attention is paid to the state of the waters at this particular spot: it is one of the principal stations of the AVater- staat (§ 9). The safety of Amsterdam and the surrounding country from in¬ undations depended upon the manage¬ ment of these sluices.” The railroad passes near the sluices, close to an old chateau called Zwanen- burg; it then makes a bend, after which it continues in a straight line on to Amsterdam. The most conspicuous objects, on ap¬ proaching the town from the land side, are the windmills, one of which is perched on each of the 26 bastions, now no longer of use as fortifications; they serve to grind the flour which supplies the town. The fosse surround¬ ing the town is 80 ft. wide. 75 m. Amsterdam Terminus is near the harbour, outside AVillcms-Poort, a long way off from the centre of the town. Omnibuses convey passengers for 4 sti- [n. g.] 49 vers'as far as the dam. It is best to take a vigilante for 1 guilder. Amsterdam.— Inns: H. desPays-Bas (commercial) ; ^Brack’s Oude Doelenx (family)—both good, and nearly of equal merit; Doelen Straat, Keizers- kroon, Kalverstraat. The Old Bible, a quiet house frequented by English and Americans;—H. du Vieux Comte, in the Kalver Straat, a quiet house. Good drinking-water, from Haarlem, is now laid on in all the best hotels, from the English company’s waterworks. Bolander is a trusty valet-de-place and courier, to be heard of at Brack’s Hotel, Oude Doelen. The principal city of Holland is situated at the Confluence of the river Amstel with the arm of the Zuider Zee called the IJ (pronounced Eye), which in front of Amsterdam is from 8 to 9 fathoms in depth, and forms a well- sheltered road. It has 260,000 Inhab., of whom 35,000 are Jews. Its ground- plan has somewhat the shape of a half-bent bow; the straight line, repre¬ senting the string, rests on the 1J, and the curved line forms its boundary on the land side. It has also been com¬ pared to the cross section of an onion, the concentric curves representing canals. Its walls arc surrounded by a semicircular canal or wide fosse, and within the city are 4 other great canals, all running in curves, parallel with the outer one. They are called Prinsen Graeht, Kcizers Graclit, Ilceren Gracht, and Singel, the last being the inner- i most. The Kcizers Gracht is 140 ft. wide. They are lined with handsome houses ; each of the first 3 is at least 2 m. long, and in their buildings as well as dimensions may bear comparison with the finest streets in Europe. The various small canals which intersect the town in all directions divide it into 90 islands, and are traversed by 250 bridges. It has been calculated that the repair of bridges, cleansing and clearing canals, and repairing dykes, in Amsterdam alone, amounts to several thousand guilders daily. This will be better un¬ derstood when it is known that, were it not for the most skilful management of sluices and dykes, the city of Amster- D too . 50 ROUTE 2. —AMSTERDAM. PALACE. Sect. I. dam might be submerged at any mo¬ ment. All things considered, it is one of the most wonderful cities in Eu¬ rope. It is said to be between 7 and 9 m. in circumference. In the strange intermixture of land and water it may be compared to Venice ; and the splendour of some of its buildings, though not equalling that of the Sea Cybele, may be said to approximate to it, but the bouses are almost all of brick, and the canals differ from those of Venice in being lined with quays. The whole city, its houses, canals, and sluices, are founded upon piles; which gave occasion to Erasmus to say that he had reached a city whose in¬ habitants, like crows, lived on the tops of trees. The upper stratum is literally nothing more than bog and loose sand; and until the piles are driven through this into the firm soil below, no struc¬ ture can be raised with a chance of stability. In 1822 the enormous corn warehouses, originally built for the Dutch East India Company, ac¬ tually sank down into the mud, from the piles having given way. They contained at the time more than 70,000 cwt. of corn: a weight which the foun¬ dation beneath was incapable of sup¬ porting. A kind of hackney-coach called Sleepkoets, still seen, though rarely in Amsterdam, consists of the body of a coach or fly, mounted upon a sledge drawn by one horse, while the driver, walking beside him, holds in one hand a bit of cloth or rag dipped in oil and fastened to the end of a string; this he contrives to drop, at inter¬ vals, under the runners of the sledge to diminish the friction. It has been often said that a police regulation restricts the use of wheels, from fear lest the rattling of heavy carriages over the stones should shake and injure the foundation of the buildings : this, how¬ ever, is not true. Heavy burdens are almost entirely transported along the canals, and from thence to the ware¬ houses on similar sledges. Omnibuses ply between the Dam, or Palace-plain, and the railway stations. Fare, 20 cents. The havens and canals arc shallow, being about 8 ft. deep at ordinary water. They are, therefore, fit for the Rhine vessels and Dutch coasters, but do not admit vessels for foreign trade. These lie along the booms and in front of the town, and the goods are transferred by means of the numerous canals of the city. There is a good deal of mud deposited at the bottom of the canals, which when disturbed by the barges produces a most noisome effluvia in hot weather, when the water is said to “grow.” Machines are constantly at work to clear out the mud, which is sent to distant parts as manure. Mills have also been employed to give an artificial motion to the waters, and prevent their becoming stagnant; but the same object is now attained by more simple means. To effect a circulation in the canals is most essential to the health of the inhabitants. The Arnstel at its entrance into the city is 11 in. below the mean level of the German Ocean, the lowest tide is only 1 ^ ft. lower than the Arnstel. It is therefore evident that the canals can be emptied, and that partially, only at low water. The Damrak is the point of discharge. At high water the sluices which admit the Arnstel into the town are closed for a short time, and the sea-water allowed then to circulate through the town, until it is again expelled by the river. The vast dams thrown up since 1851 in front of the town, for a great distance along the side towards the I]", resist the influx of the sea into the mouths of the canals, and are provided with flood-gates of the strongest construction, to with¬ stand the pressure of high tides. They also form 2 great basins, Ooster- and Wester-Dock, capable ofreceiving 1000 vessels. A Canal from Amsterdam direct to the North Sea through the isthmus of Holland is being constructed. The 1J will ho drained on^oth sides of the canal, which will be only 14 m. in length, available at all tides for the largest ships, and forming a harbour of refuge. See Rte. 4. X The Palace (net Taleis), on the Dam, formerly The Stadhuis , is a vast and im¬ posing edifice of stone, standing upon 13,659 piles driven 70 ft. deep into the ground. The architect was Van Campen; Holland. ROUTE 2. -AMSTERDAM. CHURCHES. tlie first stone was laid 1648, and the building finished 1655. It was originally occupied by the magistracy, for town councils, judicial tribunals, and the like. During the reign of Louis Buonaparte it became his palace, and the late King- resided in it whenever ho visited Amsterdam. The main entrance is be¬ hind. The treasures of the once cele¬ brated bank of Amsterdam, which used to regulate the exchanges of Europe, were kept in the vaults below the building, which are still used for the same purpose by the bank of the Nether¬ lands. It is chiefly remarkable for one grand Hall, occupying the centre of the building, lined with white Italian marble, 120 ft. long and - 57 ft. wide, and nearly 100 ft. high. The sculp¬ tured bas-reliefs which adorn the build¬ ing are by Arthur Quellin, and deserve notice as works of art, those especially which adorn the two pediments; many of those in the interior are appropriate and well executed: thus over the door of the room which was the secretary’s is a dog watching his dead master, and a figure of Silence with her finger on her lips, as emblems of fidelity and secrecy. The Bankrupt Court contains a group representing Daedalus and Icarus—in allusion to rash speculations and their ruinous consequences. In the Audience Chamber is a large picture, by Wappers, of Yan Speyk blowing up his ship. It is worth while to see the View from the tower on the summit of the building. This is the best place to obtain a tolerably correct idea of this wonderful city, with its broad canals, avenues of green trees running through the heart of the town, houses with forked chimneys and projecting gables, many ©f them bowing forward or lean¬ ing backwards, from subsidence in their foundations. These form the fore¬ ground of lift picture. The horizon extends on the N. side over the Zuider Zee, over the IJ, to the numerous wind¬ mills and red roofs of Zaandam, the 1ST. Holland canal and the towers of Alkmaar ; S. over the site of the Haar¬ lem Meer, now ploughed by the share and no longer by the keel; S.E. appear the towers of Utrecht and Amcrsfort; and AY. the spire of Haarlem, with the 51 straight canal and railway pointing: towards it. 6 t In the middle of the Dam rises the Ci oss of Metal, a national monument to the Dutch soldiers who fell in the cam¬ paign of 1830-31. The present Stadhuis , or Town Hall on the Achtcr Burgwal (formerly the Admiralty), contains good pictures—- portraits of burgomasters and citizens of Amsterdam, by Van der Heist , Frans dials , Covert Flinch , See .; also a capital Lingelbach , a view of the palace while building; and a view of it finished by Van der Ulft. The New Exchange , built 1845, is a handsome edifice in front of the palace : its construction was a work of great difficulty on account of the looseness of the soil, a mere turbary or bog, which caused the foundations to give way. 3 o’clock is the daily hour of high change. Amsterdam has lost ground in commerce since the introduction of free trade and steam navigation ; her merchants have sunk into a stockjobbing aristocracy, investing enormous capital in state loans. The Churches of Amsterdam, stripped of almost every decoration at the Reformation, are in themselves rather barren of interest, forming a complete contrast to the richly ornamented struc¬ tures of Belgium. The Oude Kerb (Old Church), in the AYarmoes Straat, has 3 fine windows of painted glass, executed between 1549 and 1648; the tombs of several Dutch admirals; a list of the persons killed in Amsterdam by the Anabaptists, 1535; and a fine set of chimes. The organ is esteemed by many not inferior, as to tone, to that of Haarlem. “It is as gorgeously framed as if it had been con¬ trived for some Jesuits’ church. The gallery in which it stands is richly in¬ laid with porphyry and white marble : its case is florid, with the most heavy and profuse carving and gilding. The tones arc rich, firm, and brilliant. It has 68 stops, 3 rows of keys, and a full complement of pedals. In short, it is a first-rate instrument, finished about 1760, by Batti, of Utrecht, in comple¬ tion of an organ begun in 1736.” — II. F. C. D 2 62 ROUTE 2 . —AMSTERDAM. PICTURE GALLERY. Sect. I. The Nieuwe Kcrli (so called, though built in 1408), on the Damrak, close to the palace, is one of the finest churches in Holland: it has a fine open screen of brass. It contains, among many public monuments, those of Admiral de Ruiter, the commander who sailed up the Med¬ way and burnt the English fleet at Chatham, who at different times con¬ tended with the English admirals Blake, Monk, and Prince Rupert, and who commanded the Dutch at the battle of Solcbay. He is styled, in his somewhat pompous epitaph, “ immensi tremor Oceani.” There are also monuments to Captain Bentinck, killed in the battle of Doggerbank, 1781, to the poet Yon- del, and to Van Speyk, who blew up himself and his ship, in the Scheldt, 1831, rather than yield to the Belgians. (Rte. 18.) The splendidly carved pul¬ pit, with its huge sounding-board, was executed by Albert Vincken Brinck, in 1649. The churches in Holland are, per¬ haps, more numerously and regularly attended than even in England. The sermons to be preached on Sunday are announced beforehand in placards, like playbills with us. The congregation sit during the sermon with their hats on or off, indifferently, just as the mem¬ bers in our II. of Commons. In most of the churches service is performed 3 or 4 times. There is an English Episcopal Church here on the Groene Burgwal; service at 1 Orj a.m. A Scotch Presbyterian Church has long been established here, service at 10. The Jews, who form a large part of the population, being 60,000 in number, and reside in a particular quarter, have 4 Synagogues: the most splendid is that of the Portuguese, in the Muidcrstraat, which is worth visiting. The streets leading to it seem but a repetition of Monmouth Street, St. Giles’s—the same dirt and filthy smells, the same old clothes, with odds and ends, heaped up, as it were, from all quarters of the world. The lower class are not excelled in filthy habits and mean practices by any rabble in Europe. The German and Portuguese Jews hate each other with rancour intense. Nevertheless the Jews of Amsterdam are, from their wealth, a very influential body. Ba¬ ruch Spinosa, the metaphysician, was a native of Amsterdam, and son of a Portuguese Jew (1632). X The * Museum or Picture* Gallery —- placed in the Trippenlmis (a name de¬ rived from its former owner), in the Klovcniersburgwal— is open to the pub¬ lic from 10 to 3 daily: on Saturday, when it is not open to the public, it is usual to give a guilder to the keeper for admission for a party. Many of the pictures are attached to shutters, which admit of being drawn forward upon hinges in order that they may be seen under the most favourable lights. It is completely a National Gallery, being composed almost entirely of works of the Dutch school, of which it contains many chefs-d’oeuvre. One of the most noteworthy pictures is that painted by Van der Heist , “the miracle of the Dutch school,” representing the City Guard of Am¬ sterdam met to celebrate the Treaty of Munster, 1648; an event which, as it first confirmed the independence of the Dutch nation, was justly considered a subject worthy the pencil of the artist. The figures, 25 in number, are portraits; the names are inscribed above, but there are no persons in any way distinguished among them. One of them represents the lieutenant of the company, and his dress is the uniform of the Dutch schutterij (militia) of that period. “ This is, perhaps, the first picture of portraits in the world, com¬ prehending more of those qualities which make a perfect portrait than any other I have ever seen. They are cor¬ rectly drawn, both head and figure, and well coloured, and have a great variety of action, characters, and countenances; and those so lively and truly expressing what they are about, that the spectator has nothing to wish for. Of this pic¬ ture I had heard great commendations; but it as far exceeded my expectation as that of Rcmbrand, the Night Watch, fell below it.” R. The preference of Sir Joshua hardly agrees with the * A new Museum is in progress. Holland. 53 ROUTE 2 . —AMSTERDAM. PICTURES. estimate of the best Art critics of the present dajq who esteem “the Night Watch” more. Portraits of 3 mem¬ bers of the Archers’ Guild, seated at a table, holding- the prizes for the best shots, a sceptre, a goblet, and a chain; a fourth man, said to he the painter, a wotnau, and a dog. In the back¬ ground 3 young marksmen. “ An admirable picture.” J. R. Portrait of Mary, daughter of Charles I., wife of William II., P. of Orange, and mother of William III. of England. Van der Heist is a scarce master, and his works are nowhere to he found in equal per¬ fection with those at Amsterdam. Backhuysen. —The Pensionary John de Witt embarking on board of the Fleet in 1665. A view of Amsterdam. Berghem. — Several fine Landscapes; one particularly, called an Italian Land¬ scape. Ferdinand Bol. —Portrait of Ad¬ miral de Puiter. Gaspar Crayer. —The Adoration of the Shepherds. A Descent from the Cross. Cuyp and Both. —Some admirable land¬ scapes. X Gerard Douw.— The Evening School, a painting in which the effect of candle¬ light is wonderfully portrayed : no less than 5 different lights are introduced into the picture, and variously thrown upon the 12 figures which compose it. A Hermit in a Cave before a Crucifix, surprisingly finished. Hondekoeter . — Several pictures of fowls, game, rare birds, &c., unequalled in their class probably in the world. One of the most remarkable is that known as “the Floating Feather,” in which a Pelican is introduced with Ducks swimming. Van Huy sum. — Fruit and Flower pieces. Carl du Jardin. — Portraits of the 5 Governors of the Spinhouse at Amster¬ dam. “ They are all dressed in black; and, being upon a light background, have a wonderful relief. The heads are executed with a most careful and masterly touch, and the repose and har¬ mony of colouring spread over the whole picture are admirable.” R. The por¬ traits of this artist are rare, as he is generally looked upon as a painter of landscapes, sheep, and small figures. Ihere are 3 other good pictures by him, and no other collectionprobably possesses works of his showing equal excellence. Lievens .—Portrait of Vondel, the Poet. Miereveld .—Portraits of William I. and Maurice, Princes of Orange. Ostade , A .—The Painter in his Study. Ostade , J .—A laughing Peasant with a jug in his hand. Paul Potter .—A Landscape with Cat¬ tle, and a Woman suckling a Child. Orpheus charming the Beasts. A Bear Hunt, one of the few paintings by this master in which the figures are as large as life. A part of the ori¬ ginal painting has peeled off the canvas. ^ Rembrandt .—The picture called the Night Watch probably represents a com¬ pany of archers, with their leader, Captain Kok, going out to shoot at the butts. It appears to have been much damaged, “but what remains seems to be painted in a poor manner.”—“So far am I from thinking it deserves its great reputation that it was with difficulty I could persuade myself that it was painted by Bcmbrand: it seemed to me to have more of the yellow manner of Boll. The name of Rembrand, however, is certainly upon it, with the date, 1642.” R .—This unfavourable opinion of Sir Joshua is not confirmed by judges of art in the present day, who consider that lie does injustice to one of the finest and most wonderful productions of the great painter. Another first-rate paint¬ ing is the portraits of 5 Masters of the Drapers’ Company and their servant. They are seated round a table, appa¬ rently conversing on matters of business. The heads are finely painted, particu¬ larly the one nearest to the right. There are parts of this painting which, in force of execution, the painter pro¬ bably never surpassed. Ruisdael .—A magnificent waterfall. The castle of Benthcim. The same subject is to be found at Dresden. Sclialken .—William III., a portrait by candlelight. II. Walpole says that the artist made the King hold the can¬ dle until the tallow ran down and burnt 54 ROUTE 2. —AMSTERDAM. PICTURES. his hand. Two Boys; one eating soup, the other an egg, with his face slobbered over by the yolk; called u Every one to his fancy;” which motto is written on the picture. Jan Steen is, perhaps, no¬ where seen to greater advantage. A Baker at a Window, and a Boy blowing a Horn to let the neighbours know that the rolls are ready. A Village Quack. The Fete of St. Nicholas, an occasion when the Dutch every year make pre¬ sents of bonbons to their children w T ho behave well, while the naughty ones' are left without anything, or receive a whipping. The story is admirably told in this picture, which is a chef-d’oeuvre of the master. Snyders. —Dead Wildfowl. Teniers. —Temptation of St. Anthony. A Peasant drinking and smoking. Terburg. —A Lady in White Satin talk¬ ing with a lady and gentleman. Her hack only is seen, but the whole atti¬ tude shows that she is struggling with her feelings. (See Kugler, § LV. 5.) The Ministers at the Congress of Munster. A. Vander Venne. —Portrait of William I., taken after his death. TP. Vande- velde. —View of Amsterdam, from the Sehreijershock Tower; dated 1686. u One of the most capital works of this artist.” T. Paintings of the Sea Fight between the Dutch and English, which lasted 4 days, and in which the Dutch were victorious: one represent s the battle between De Ituiter and General Monk, in which 4 English linc-of- battle ships were taken. Calms at Sea, painted with the most exquisite clear¬ ness, and with that wonderful effect of distance over the surface of the water which is the peculiar excellence of Vandcvelde. Vandyk. —Portraits of the Children of Charles I.: one of them, the Princess Mary, became the wife of William II., Prince of Orange. Francis Van der Borght, a masterly portrait. Weenix. —Dead Game. Wouvennans. —A Stag Hunt, in this artist’s best manner. The Chasse au Vol, Hawking Party. A picture representing officers plundered and bound by peasants. The horse is exquisitely painted. All three arc very line : there are others of great Sect. I. excellence, as, a Landscape, with a. white Horse. The Museum also contains one of the most remarkable collections of prints in Europe, particularly rich in the Dutch and Flemish masters, formed by Mr. Van Leyden, and purchased by fiouis Buonaparte, K. of Holland. It occupies 200 portfolios. A fine Statue of Rembrandt was erected in the Botcrmarkt, 1851. In the Spin-house , or prison for female offenders, in the Nieuwe Prinsen Gracht, are several pictures and portraits of directors of the establishment, by Ru¬ bens and Vandyk , exceedingly fine, and well worth notice. The cabinet bequeathed to the Boyal Academy by the late M. van der Hoop , shown for a small fee (50 cents), now in the Oudc Man Huis, is also first-rate: it has an excellent Landscape by H. Van- dervelde, with figures of the painter and his family ; and one of the finest Ostades known, from the cabinet of the Duchcsse de Berry; fine Adrian of Utrecht, Roth, Mieris, Jan Steen. There are several first-rate Private Collections of pictures in Amsterdam : that belonging to M. Six (Heerengracht, bij de Vijzelstraat, X. No. 397) contains Rembrandt'’s \ length sketch of the Burgomaster Six, painted with great power and effect; and of Madame Six, a wonderful picture.— G. Rouw, A Girl with a Birdcage, exquisitely finished. — M'etzu , A Fishwife. — Cuyp, Sunny Landscape, ships and water; and a moonlight view.— V. der Neer, Moon¬ light.— Hobbema , Landscape.— Ruisdael , ditto.— Wynants , ditto.— Raul Rotter, Cattle; good.— Jan Steen, A Jewish Marriage. Weenix , Dead Game. The gallery of Mrs. van Loon contains fine specimens of the Dutch school. This gallery may, perhaps, be seen by ap¬ plying, by letter, to the owners. The Fodor Museum on the Kcisers- gracht, bequeathed to the city by a Mr. Fodor, contains a very valuable collection of modern paintings, ancient and modern drawings, etchings, and engravings. They arc preserved in a handsome building erected with every convenience and arrangement desirabl Holland . route 2.— Amsterdam. CHARITIES. INSTITUTIONS. 55 for giving due effect to the extensive collection it contains; charge for ad¬ mission, 50 cents. The Historic Gallery of Pictures, con¬ tributions by the principal Dutch artists of the day, in one of the rooms of the Artist’s Club, Arti et Amicitise, on the Kokin, is open to the public on pay¬ ment of 25 cents, and is well worth a visit. Amsterdam is remarkable for the number and extensive bounty of the Charitable Institutions which it supports, for the most part, by voluntary contri¬ butions of its benevolent citizens. It is recorded that, when some one in con¬ versation with Charles II. prognosti¬ cated speedy ruin to the city from the meditated attack of Louis XIV.’s armies, Charles, who was well acquainted with the country from a long residence in it, replied, “ I am of opinion that Provi¬ dence will preserve Amsterdam, if it were only for the great charity they have for their poor.” This city alone, it is said, numbers no fewer than 23 insti¬ tutions of benevolence, including hos¬ pitals for the reception of the aged and infirm, the insane, orphans and widows, foundlings, &c., some of them attached to the churches of peculiar religions, others open to all sects without distinc¬ tion. At one time more than 20,000 poor people received their daily bread and board from charity. Some of the almshouses, such, for in¬ stance, as the hospital for Protestant old men and women, on the Amstcl, look more like princes’ palaces than lodgings for poor people. The Burgher Orphan Asylum receives 700 or 800 children, boys and girls, until they arc 20 years of age; and before they arc sent out into the world they are instructed in some trade or profession. They arc well taken care of, and arc very healthy. The orphan children of the different asylums are generally distinguished by a particular dress : those of the Protes¬ tant Burgher House (in which Van Spcyk was brought up) wear black and red jackets; the girls of the Homan Catholic Orphan House wear black, with a white band round the head : the orphans educated in the Almosoniers’ Orphan House are dressed in black, and wear round the left arm the colours of the town—a black, red, and white band, with a number. The intention of these costumes is to prevent their entrance into playhouses, gin-shops, or other improper places; a severe penalty being inflicted on persons who should admit children thus attired. There is also a class of Provident In¬ stitutions here and in other Dutch towns, called Proveniers Huizen (providers’ houses), for the reception and comfort¬ able maintenance of old men and women, who pay a comparatively small sum, proportioned to their ago (e. g. from 50 to 55 years, 2000 guilders; 55 to 60, 1500; 70 years and upwards, 500 guil¬ ders), for admittance, and are supported in respectability to the end of their days. They form a very suitable retreat for domestic servants, who by timely sav¬ ings may obtain an entrance; indeed, masters and mistresses sometimes re¬ ward old and faithful domestics by pay¬ ing for their admission. The poor throughout Holland are generally supported by voluntary con¬ tributions. In all the churches collec¬ tions are made every Sunday by tbs deacons, who go round to all present, carrying a little bag attached to the end of a stick, like a landing-net, with a monitory bell fixed to it, into which every person drops something suited to his means. There arc also good institutions for the blind, and deaf and dumb. The Prisons of Amsterdam were placed upon a good foundation before those of other countries in Europe, and originally surpassed all others. They arc now, however, in many respects, inferior to similar improved establishments in Eng¬ land and America. There is now but one prison in Amsterdam, built on the cellular sys¬ tem in 1845, outside the Leidcn-gate. Though very extensive, and fully be¬ traying its character by its lofty walls and windows, it contains only 208 cells; but it is essentially a model prison, and seems to answer very effectually both the corrective and 56 ROUTE 2.—AMSTERDAM. SOCIETIES. PROMENADES. Sect. I. ameliorating objects for which it was instituted. The wilder class of pri¬ soners are generally tamed down in the provincial prisons before they are ad¬ mitted to this. The Dutch are not altogether ab¬ sorbed in commerce, so as to be able to devote no time to literature and the arts; witness the society called Felix Mentis, from the first words of a Latin inscrip¬ tion placed upon the building, which is founded and supported entirely by mer¬ chants and citizens. The building is situated in the Ivcizers Gracht. In its nature it bears some resemblance to the Loyal Institution in London. It con¬ tains a library, museum, collections of casts of ancient statues, of chemical and mathematical instruments, a reading- room, and a very fine concert-room and observatory. Lectures are given in various branches of art, science, and literature. Though there is little in the building, perhaps, to take up the time of a stranger merely passing through the city, any intelligent individual, about to reside here, would find it an agreeable resource. The Lees Museum, or Subscription Beading-room , is on the Lokin. The principal English, French and German papers and periodicals arc found here. Strangers can be introduced by mem¬ bers. There are many other useful societies, the most prominent being the Associa¬ tion for the Promotion of the Public Weal (Maatschappij tot nut van’t algemeen). It was established in 1784, hy a simple Baptist clergyman named Nieuwen- huizen, at Monnikendam, and it now numbers 200 offsets or branch societies, and 13,000 members, extending all over Holland. Its object is the instruction and improvement in condition of the lower classes : 1. By promoting the education of the young, improving school books, establishing Sunday schools, and providing for the children after quitting school—establishing book societies and libraries for the poor. 2. By extending information to adults by popular writings, public lectures, and the institution of banks for saving. 3. By the distribution of public rewards to the industrious and virtuous among the poorer classes; bestowing medals on such as have risked their lives in pre¬ serving those of others, &c. The head¬ quarters of this admirable society are at Amsterdam, where an annual meeting of the members is held on the second Tuesday of August. A subscription of 5 or 6 guilders yearly constitutes a member. Its influence had begun to extend to Belgium before the revolution of 1830, but has since been checked and totally suppressed by the priests, v ' The Promenades are the Plantaadje , or Plantation , at the end of the Ileeren Gracht, surrounded by canals, and not far from the dockyards. Near this is the Zoological Garden, which deserves a visit (admission 75 cents). It is a place of general resort with the upper classes on Sunday afternoons and Wednesday evenings. It has a spacious and excellent Museum of shells, mine¬ rals, and skeletons well arranged, as also of Japanese curiosities. Not far off is the Park , a private club, to which strangers may be admitted by a member. A people’s park has been laid out outside the Lcyden-gate. The Arnstel river is a great trunk of navigation. It is embanked, and navi¬ gable 11 m., to the boundary of the district at Amstel-mondhard, where it divides into 2 branches, which unite with numerous canals, both in this district and that of Lijnland. The banks of the Arnstel, outside the Utrecht gate, are much resorted to. The want of spring-water, formerly severely felt in the city, is now supplied by a Water Company , established by Bri¬ tish capitalists, who have conveyed into Amsterdam pure water from the Dunes, near Haarlem. It is already laid on in the principal streets, and the good Hotels are abundantly furnished. A portion of the poorer inhabitants live entirely in the cellars of the houses. There is also a class who live constantly upon the canals, making their vessels their home. “ In this and in main" other respects the Dutch bear a strong resemblance to the Chinese: like that 57 Holland . route 2.—amsterd industrious and economical race, they keep their hogs, their ducks, and other domestic animals constantly on hoard. Their cabins display the same neatness as the parlours of their countrymen on shore ; the women employ themselves in all the domestic offices, and are assi¬ duous in embellishing their little sitting- rooms with the labours of the needle; and many of them have little gardens of tulips, hyacinths, anemones, and various other flowers. Some of these vessels are of great length, hut generally narrow, suitable to the canals and sluices of the towns.”— Family Tour. “This mode of living is a good example of Dutch industry and thrift. A man marries—he and his wife possess or purchase a small boat that will carry 1 to 3 tons. They live and cook on hoard, move about, carry articles to and from markets; and their first, if not second child is horn, or at least nursed, in this puny vessel. The wife nurses the children, mends, and often makes, all the family clothes, cooks, and assists in navigating the craft, especially in steering; when you may, at the same time, observe the husband with a rope over his shoulder dragging the boat along a canal or river when the wind is adverse. In process of time they buy a larger vessel, probably of 6 or 7 tons, and, if the smaller one ho not unfit for use, sell it to a young beginning couple. In the second vessel their family grows, until they are probably strong enough to manage together, with perhaps an additional hand or two, one of those large vessels, carrying from 200 to 400 tons, called Rhine boats: on hoard of all which the population live in the manner before described.”— Commerc. Statisc. One of the most interesting spots in Amsterdam, from the bustle displayed on it, is the Harbour and the Quay , along the hank of the IJ. The two enormous dykes or dams constructed at vast expense, nearly parallel with the shore, serve the double purpose of pro¬ tecting a part of the town from inunda¬ tions to which it was previously ex¬ posed, and of gaining from the river a considerable space forming capacious basins or docks ( Oostelijk and Westelijk Dok ), capable of holding nearly 1000 AM. MODES OF LIVING. vessels, and closed by large sluice-gates. Between the two dams two rows of strong piles (bearing the singular name of Due d’Alben) extend. Openings are left at intervals between them to allow ships to enter and depart; these are closed at night by booms, so as to sepa¬ rate the harbour from the IJ. At the extremity of the western dam, near the fish-market, formerly stood the Herring Pachery Tower. It received its name from a row of small houses occupied by rope-sellers, dealers in marine stores, &c., in front of which, dining the season of the herring fishery, all the business connected with the examining, sorting the fish, and repacking them for foreign markets, is transacted in the presence of officers appointed by the authorities. Every proceeding with respect to the herring fishery is regu¬ lated by a committee of managers, or shareholders, called commissioners of the Great Fishery (by which is meant the herring fishery), approved of by the government, and under the inspection of officers appointed by them. These regulations are exceedingly minute and precise. “ The period when the fishery might begin is fixed at 5 min. past 12 o’clock on the night of the 24th June ; and the master and pilot of every vessel leaving Holland for the fishery are obliged to make oath that they will respect them. The species of salt to be used in curing the different sorts of her¬ rings is also fixed by law; and there are endless rules with respect to the size of the barrels, the number and thickness of the staves of which they were to he made, the guttings and packing of the herring, the branding of the barrel. These regulations are intended to secure to the Hollanders that superiority which they had early attained in the fishery, to obtain for the Dutch herrings the best price in foreign markets, and to prevent the herrings being injured by the bad faith of individuals.”— McCul¬ loch's Dictionary of Commerce. The fishery, however, is sadly fallen off at present; scarcely 200 herring vessels are sent out from the whole of Holland, instead of 2000, the number employed in former days. Still the arrival of the herrings is looked for D 3 58 ROUTE 2. -AMSTERDAM. DOCKYARD. MANUFACTURES. Sect. I. Avitli eager anticipation at Amsterdam : a premium is given to the first buss which lands a cargo; small kegs are then sold at a high price ; and a single herring often fetches as much as 5s. The art of curing herrings was invented hy one William Beukels, of Biervliet, a Fleming; hut it is not the fact that the Dutch and English derive from his name the word pickle ; which is no¬ thing more than the Dutch pekel (brine). In veneration for one who had conferred so great a benefit on his country, the Emperor Charles Y. made a pilgrimage to his tomb. Close to the Haringpakkerij is a bridge stretching across the harbour to the tavern called Nieuwe-Stads-IIerberg , which is the starting - place of the steamers to Saardam, and of the ferry¬ boat to Buiksloot. (Rte. 3.) Further on, hy the side of the harbour, stands the Schreijerstoren (Weeper’s Tower), so called because, being situated near the quay from which vessels used to set sail, it was a constant scene of lamenta¬ tion and tears, which were shed by friends, wives, and children, at the departure of their husbands, fathers, or other relatives and connections. The humble dwelling of the heroic De Ruiter still exists on the Quay of the IJ. On the Dam stands the house of the Zeemanshoop (Seamen’s Club), an asso¬ ciation of 300 members, chiefly ship captains, with which a charitable foundation for the benefit of their widows and orphans is connected. Many of the first people of Amsterdam are enrolled as members. Near the E, dock is the Naval Academy (Kweek-school voor de Zoe- vaart), in which the sons of sailors are provided by the government with an education fitting them for the naval profession. In the yard attached to the building is a frigate fully rigged, to make the pupils acquainted with the details of a ship’s equipment. Their dormitory also is fitted up like the be- tween-decks of a man-of-war ; every boy sleeps in his hammock, suspended from the roof, above his locker or chest in which his clothes, &c., are kept. Further E., beyond the quay of the IJ-gracht, a long bridge leads to the island of Kattenburg, on which is situated the National Dockyard (Lands, or Rijkswerf). It is now separated from the IJ by the eastern dam. It is the largest naval depot and arsenal in Holland; there are usually several vessels of war on the stocks. Admis¬ sion may be obtained by showing a written order from the British or Ame¬ rican consul to view it—its slips, rope- walks, model-room, in which are pre¬ served specimens of the worm - eaten piles alluded to in p. 40; but an Englishman will find that it is not to be compared with the dockyards of his own country. In the latter part of the 13th cent. Amsterdam was still a cluster of fisher¬ men’s huts, in a salt marsh. Its great advance in wealth and importance took place in the 16th cent., after the siege of Antwerp, when the persecu¬ tions of the Spaniards in the Flemish provinces drove so many valuable sub¬ jects, active merchants, and clever manu¬ facturers, to seek for safety and the free exercise of the Protestant faith in Hol¬ land and England. Many wealthy in¬ habitants of the city also are descend¬ ants of refugees driven out of France on the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. It is supposed that Fenclon had Am¬ sterdam in view while describing Tyre in his Telemaquc. Its prosperity for a long time depended on its shipping, which engrossed the carrying trade of the whole world, and likewise had the effect of rearing a bold race of sailors, ready to fight the battles of their coun¬ try, and to brave storms and tempests, in every sea under heaven. At one period the trade in butter and cheese brought 1,000,000 ducats annually to Amsterdam. The Bank of Amsterdam , described by Adam Smith, no longer exists: another, the present Bank of the Netherlands on the Rokin, was set up by King William I., and the ca¬ pitalists here still continue the hauliers of a large part of Europe. The Manufactures of Amsterdam com¬ prehend, besides those of cotton and woollen stuffs, which are to be found elsewhere, one or two which arc almost Holland, route 2.— Amsterdam. peculiar to the spot; for example, the refineries of borax, a salt which is pro¬ duced from the mud of large lakes in Thibet, Persia, Tuscany, and South America; of camphor, the coagulated sap of a tree, found principally in China: it is used extensively in medi¬ cine ; while borax is an ingredient for making the solder used by jewellers. Smalt manufactories.— Smalt is a blue glassy substance produced from cobalt: the artificers of Amsterdam alone know how to refine it in the best manner, by grinding it minutely, and by other methods, which are kept secret. They produce a great variety of shades in the colour, which is chiefly employed in painting china. Many other articles are manufactured here, by methods believed to be known only in Amster¬ dam ; such as cinnabar or vermilion, rouge, white lead, and aquafortis ; gold lace, and a great variety of scents and perfumed oils, are also objects of com¬ merce. The art of cutting diamonds was for a long time confined to the Jews of Amsterdam and Antwerp. It is supposed not to have been known in Europe earlier than the 15th cent. The diamond mills at Amsterdam are numerous, and are exclusively the pro¬ perty of Jews, consequently arc closed on Saturday, but not on Sunday. They are worked by steam-engines, setting in motion a number of small wheels, whose cogs, acting on regular metal plates, cause them to revolve 2000 times in a minute. Pulverised diamond is placed on these; and the stone to be polished, fastened in a metal cap, by means of an amalgam of zinc and quicksilver, is sub¬ mitted to the friction of the adamantine particles: each wheel can operate on 4 stones at once. In order to cut the diamond, diamond-dust is fixed on metal wire that is moved rapidly backwards and forwards over the stone to be cut. Each perfect stone has 64 facets, each rose 32. M. Coster’s mills, which employ nearly 500 men, can be visited on obtaining, through the landlord of the hotel, a card of introduction. A fee of a florin for a small party, for the workmen’s sick-funcl, is expected. MANUFACTURES. THEATRES. 59 Theatres. Open alternately every day in the week but Sunday; per¬ formances begin at 6 or half-past 6.— 1. L he Dutch Theatre (Stads Schouw- burg, near the Leiden-gate), open in winter with Italian operas, Dutch tragedy and comedy. 2. The German Theatre , in the Amstel Straat, for German representations only. There is also a smaller theatre where vaude¬ villes are represented, called The Salon des Varietes: it is much frequented, as smoking is allowed. Entrance 15 stivers. Concerts are given at Fras¬ cati’s, in the Nes. Cafe's .— Cafe Frangais , Cafe Polonnais , and Cafd Suisse, in the Kalver Straat. The finest shops are in the Kalver Straat, which is also the most frequented thoroughfare ; in the Nieuwedijk—both leading out of the square in which the palace is situated; and in the Warmoes j Straat. Excellent curaqoa is made at Am¬ sterdam at two-thirds of the English price; it may be purchased very good at Wynand Eocking’s, in de Pijl Steeg, near the Exchange. Anisette is another good liqueur manufactured here: the best may be got of Pols, in hot Loosje. Physician , Dr. Davids, Y. 237, Heercn Gracht, is an English physician. The Flower-market , held on the Singel, on Monday, is worth a visit. The annual Kermis or Fair (f 15) takes place at the beginning of Sep¬ tember, and, while it lasts, attracts hither multitudes from the northern provinces. It may be styled the Dutch Carnival. At the neat village of Muider- berg there is a remarkable echo on the property of Mr. E. J. Koch. Railroads (Ilollandsche Spoorweg)— to Haarlem, Leiden, Hague, and Rot¬ terdam—terminus outside the AVillcms or Haarlem gate :—Rijn Spoorweg, to Arnhem and Rotterdam, via Utrecht; also to Dusseldorf, Cologne, Hanover, Berlin, &c. — terminus outside the 60 ROUTE 3.—AMSTERDAM TO BROEK. Sect. I. "VVeesper gate. (Etc. 5.) Not far from the terminus of the Rhenish lily, is the Amsterdam Crystal Palace, opened 1864, for the exhibition of the indus¬ trial productions of all nations, flower- shows, concerts and public meetings. As a specimen of architectural skill this building is well worth a visit, but it is only on rare occasions that any¬ thing is exhibited worth seeing. Steamboats to Zaandam nearly every hour ; Alkmaar 3 times a day ; Holder twice (Rte. 3). To Harlingen 3 times a week ; Enlchuizen 3 times ; Kampen once (Rte. 7). A steam ferry - boat is constantly plying to Buiksloot and the mouth o' the Texel canal. Rte. 3. The Post Office is on the Voor Burg- wal, behind the palace. Consuls from Great Britain and the U. S. ROUTE 3. AMSTERDAM TO BROEK, AND THE GREAT NORTH HOLLAND SHIP CANAL. AM¬ STERDAM TO ZAANDAM. Broek. —A steam ferry-boat plies every hour from the tavern called Nieuwe Stads-IIerberg, rising on piles in the midst of thelj, to the S. point of the opposite shore of Waterland, 1£ m. from Buiksloot. Trekschuits ply from the same house to Brock 4 times a-day. The best way is to take the steamer to Zaandam, there hire a caniage for Broek, which will bring you back to Buiksloot ferry, where you embark for Amsterdam. The harbour of Amsterdam is fenced in with 2 long lines of piles driven into the mud, having open spaces at intervals to allow vessels to enter and depart. These openings are closed at night with booms, or large trees co¬ vered with iron spikes, which are drawn across and fastened with chains. Not many years ago it was discovered that some moUuscous animal had committed such extensive ravages in the wood¬ work, that, though the piles were of the . inest heart of oak, they were in a short ;;ime reduced to a state resembling loneycomb, so as to require constant renewal. In traversing the harbour long rows of little pavilions, raised upon wooden liers, are remarked, stretching far out : rom shore, several feet above the water. These are summer-houses belonging to Holland. ROUTE 3. —BUIKSLOOT. SHIP CANAL. 61 the citizens, the owners of pleasure- boats, who delight to come hither and smoke their pipes and sip their wine, beer, or coffee. From the landing-place Amsterdam is seen to great advantage, stretching along the opposite shore of the IJ. It is by far the best view of the city, and is a picture of wealth and industry, hearing witness to the extent of the trade which is still carried on with almost all parts of the globe. The IJ is frozen over in severe win¬ ters. In the winter of 1794-5 the Dutch fled lying in the IJ, opposite Amster¬ dam, was captured by a French corps of cavalry and flying artillery! The vessels were frozen up in the ice at the time, and the detachment from the in¬ vading army crossed the ice to attack them. Buiksloot is a large village at the "Watcrland dyke, abounding in spacious inns, with numerous apartments for the reception of guests from Amsterdam. Inns : De Boer’s and Geritzen’s. Carriages may be hired here to go to Broek (4 m.) and return for 6 grs.; to Zaandam for 4 grs. ; Monnikendam 4i grs.; Edam 5 grs. The longer tour by Broek, Monnikendam, Edam, Pur- merende (where is the only tolerable inn on the route, at which travellers may dine), to Saardam, costs 15 grs., and will occupy a whole day. No one should omit to view the Grand Ship Canal of North Holland , which commences here directly oppo¬ site Amsterdam, and extends to Helder and the Texel, a distance of 51 m. It is one of the greatest undertakings of the land ever executed. At the surface it is 124 It. wide, at the bottom 31 ft., a breadth sufficient to admit two frigates to pass, and probably greater than that of any other canal in the world; and it is 21 ft. deep. It has locks only at each end. The lock-gates exceed in dimensions the largest in the docks of Liverpool; they are founded upon piles driven through the mud into sand. The level of the canal at Buiksloot is 10 ft. below the mean height of the sea, and of course many feet below high tides. As a work of utility this canal deserves the highest praise, since it enables vessels to enter and quit the port of Amsterdam with safety, and without any delay, in defiance of con¬ trary winds, and unimpeded either by the storms or the thousand sandbanks of the dangerous Zuider Zee : at the same time avoiding the trouble and risk of passing the bar at the mouth of the IJ, called the Pampus, over which lay the only outlet to the sea before this canal was made. Large vessels were formerly obliged to discharge their cargoes on the outside of the harbour of Amsterdam, and were then lifted out of the water and floated over the bar by means of a machine called a camel, a species of double chest of wood, the 2 halves of which are shaped to fit the hull of a ship. Being filled with water and sunk, they are attached to the side of the vessel to be lifted. The water is then pumped out of them, and of course, as they become buoyant, they raise the ship with them. The time employed in tracking the fly-boats from Amsterdam to the Helder, by the canal, is 10 hrs.; moderate sized vessels in about 18 hrs.; and large East Indiamen are tracked in 2, 3, or 4 days, according to the wind. Such vessels were not unfrequently detained as many weeks by tempestuous weather and other obstacles before they could make this short voyage by sea. The difficulties which opposed the formation of this canal, through ground consisting of low swamp and loose sand, increase our admiration of the skill and perseverance by which it was planned and executed. The original sea-shore, which is the only firm ground in New Holland, was found by boring to be 43 ft. under the present surface, and the foundations of the locks were laid at that depth. One principal difficulty which occurs is the preventing the loose and silty soil which forms the banks of the canal from sliding down into the bottom and filling up the channel. Blanken was the engineer; it was begun 1819 and finished in 1825, at a cost of nearly 1^ million sterling. The only disadvantage to which it is liable is that of being choked up by ice in winter. Some years ago 35,000 62 ROUTE 3.— BROEK. Sect. I. tiles of different colours : the habita¬ tions of the poorer classes are usually only of one story; those of the rich are for the most part of the style which has been appropriately called “ the florid Cockney,” something between [ Grecian, Chinese, and Saracenic : one has a pasteboard-looking front, in¬ tended to represent a temple ; another is painted with such various colours as to call to mind the scenery of a theatre. Many of them are planted at the edge of canals and are approached by bridges formed of planks. Yet Brock has an inanimate and listless appearance, owing to the custom of keeping the front door and windows always closed, save for the entrance of the bridal pair after marriage, and for the exit of a corpse for burial. No one should visit Broek without entering one of the houses, as the interior is far more curious than the outside. The greater part of them are private dwellings, and of course strangers are not admitted without an introduction to their owners. Before almost every house in the place we had remarked a large collection of shoes and sabots, for the inmates usually put them off at the door, Idee the Turks, and walk through the house in slippers or stockings ; and even the Emperor Alexander, it is said, on visiting Broek, was compelled to comply with this usage.” “ On entering one of the numerous dairy-farms where cheese is made, we found a stable for the cows in winter running round three sides of it, the centre and remaining side being set apart for human beings. The cows were all absent from home in their summer quarters—the fields. I am sure that f 0 of the poor people of England, and a much larger proportion of the Irish, are not so well and cleanly lodged as the brutes in this country. The pavement was of Dutch tiles, the walls of deal boards, not painted or rough sawn, but as smooth and as clean as a dining-table in an English farm-house. From one end of the stable to the other runs a prevails. The houses are mostly of j gutter, and above it, over each stall, a hook is fastened in the ceiling. When the cattle are within doors their tails, from motives of cleanliness, that they guilders, about 3000/., were expended in cutting a passage through the ice for several outward-bound vessels. The road to Broek is dull; it runs through a flat country of meadows by the side of the N. H. Canal, as far as half way, and at the 2nd bridge quits this and follows the Broek Canal, along j which men and women, harnessed like horses to the towing rope, may be seen submitting to the drudgery of tracking- barges laden with fruit and vegetables for the Amsterdam market. The habi¬ tations passed on the way are mostly cottages of one story, surmounted by roofs nearly twice as high as the walls; these servo as storerooms for the winter stock of hay. (f .' a. ■' A' in wood. Many fine forest-trees are seen : here, and scarcely anywhere else in Holland. The canal connecting Utrecht with the Lek is crossed by the Rly. Dricbergen Stat.—About 3 m. N.W. of this is Zeist (6 m. from Utrecht), re¬ markable for a Moravian colony settled in it, which deserves to be visited. The whole establishment is distinguished for the order and neatness maintained in it, and is supported by the manufactures of the brothers and sisters. Hear this the dykes were broken through by the | ice-burst, March, 1854, in breaches more than a mile wide, and part of the rly. was laid under water. On the N.' of the road, near Zeist, is a mound of earth, erected in 32 days by the French army of 30,000 men, under Marmont, on the occasion of Napoleon being made emperor. The other stations are Maars- bergen, Veencndaal, Edc, Wolfhezen. Arniiem Stat. — Inns : The Sun (Do i Zon), near the station, fine view; Zwijnshoofd (Boar’s Head) ; near the railway and the steamer ; New Bellevue Hotel; Cour de HoUande; Hotel des PaysBas. Arnhem, chief town of Gnelderland, j on the rt. bank of the Rhine, 3 m. below the point where the IJssel branches off from it, has 25,000 Inhab., half Rom. Ca¬ tholics. It was fortified by Coehorn, but j the ramparts are now turned into walks. SirPhilip Sydney died here, Oct. 1586, of the wound received in battle near Zut- j phen: his wife had come over to soothe his dying hour. The Groote Kerb contains the fine monument of Charles d’Egmont Duke of Gueldrcs, 1513, altar-tomb with j effigy, while on a niche, against the N. wall of the choir, is the armour which he wore. The II. de Ville is called the Devil’s House , from the sculptured masques and caryatids which adorn its front. Though Arnhem itself has no attrac¬ tions to detain the traveller, its neigh¬ bourhood abounds in villas, parks, and gardens, the finest being that of the Baron van Heekeren, Hartjesberg —the entrance close to the railway station. The pleasure-grounds and park arc fine, and the view from the Belvedere tower strik¬ ing. Farther off, near the village of Yelp (4 m. E. of Arnhem), are several fine country scats, Biljoen, Beekhuiscn, Roozendaal, Middacht, Ridderoord, &c., to the gardens of which the public are allowed admittance. The finest view of Arnhem and the surrounding country is from the grounds of the country seat of the Baron van Brakell. Many of the grounds of the country seats are open ; but some have notices—only in Dutch —of man-traps and spring-guns. This part of Guelderland may, indeed, he termed u the Dutch paradise ; ” but its chief attractions, besides those which it derives from art, are, the abundance and purity of its flowing streams, to which the native of other provinces of Holland is a stranger, and the beauty of the trees. Railways to Emmerich, Oberhausen, Minden, Dusseldorf, Cologne, and all parts of Germany. (Rte. 34.) (A shorter line to Cologne, via Cloves, Rte. 35). Diligences 4 times a day to Nijmegen (1| hr.). The road to Nijmegen crosses the Rhine by a floating bridge, and tra¬ verses the district called the island of Bctuwe (see p. 86), passing through the villages of Eldcn and Elst. At Lent, a small village on the Waal, with a tolerable inn, opposite Nijmegen, a flying bridge conveys carriage and passengers across the Waal to— 2 Nijmegen. (Germ. Nimwegen). — Inns (none good, and all dear) : Plaats Royal; Ville de Rotterdam, near the Q.uai. Nijmegen is situated on the 1. bank of the Waal: it has 22,000 Inhab. The Romans called it Noviomagus. It is a frontier fortress of Holland. ROUTE 5. —NIJMEGEN. 73 Holland, strongly defended, and built on the side and slope of a hill called the Hoenderberg, on which the Romans formed a permanent camp to protect their Belgic possessions from inroads of the Germans. The Town Hall (Raadhuis), a build¬ ing in the style of the Renaissance (1554), ornamented in front with 2 rows of statues of German emperors, benefactors of the town, is chiefly re¬ markable as the place where the Treaty of 1678, between Louis XIY., Charles II. of Spain, and the States of Holland, was signed. It contains portraits of the ambassadors upon this occasion, and a few Roman antiquities, dug up in the neighbourhood, where the ground is constantly disclosing similar relics of the Roman settlement here. The sword with which the Counts Egmont and Horn were beheaded is also shown here. The Church of St. Stephen, begun 1272, is an interesting Gothic building of brick, in the form of a Greek cross, and contains, in the centre of the ancient choir, the monument of Cathe¬ rine de Bourbon, wife of Adolphus of Egmont, Duke of Gueldres. Her effigy is engraved on a plate of copper, and upon smaller plates at the sides are figures of the Apostles and coats of arms. Upon an elevation, which for Holland is considerable, stood the Castle of* I al- kenhof , commonly called het Ilof, said to have been built by Julius Csesar, and inhabited afterwards by Charlemagne. It was demolished in 1794 by the French. The only parts now remaining are a fragment of the church and a very perfect Chapel or Baptistery (16-sided) near the brow of the hill: it is probably of the 12th or 13th cent. The space of ground adjoining it, once a part of the ramparts of the town, is planted with trees, and serves as a public walk, over¬ looking the river and quay. On another eminence a little higher up rises the * Bel¬ vedere , a lofty summer-house built by the town, on the foundation of a tower, said to be part of a chateau of the Duke of Alva, now converted into a cafe. The view from its top is pleasing, com¬ prehending the rivers which branch off at the head of the Delta of the Rhine, viz. the Rhine, the Waal, and the IJssel, [n. G.] with the Maas flowing on the S. This is the most interesting spot in Nijmegen, and, together with the few other sights, may be seen in two hours. The views from Berg-en-dal , Beek, and Upbergen , in the neighbourhood, will also leave agreeable impressions. Nijmegen remained long in the hands of the Spaniards. A bold attempt made in 1589 by Martin Schenk van Nijdek, a Guelderland nobleman, to surprise the town, failed, and he was drowned. His body, when found by the Spaniards, was quartered and hung in chains to the principal gates, but was afterwards interred in the Great Church. One of these chains is preserved inthetownhall. In 1672, Marlborough, then Captain Churchill of the grenadiers serving under Turenne at the siege of Nijmegen, attracting that great general’s praise by his bravery, was called by him the handsome Englishman. Diligences , 4 times a day, in 2 hrs., to Arnhem (meeting the railway trains to Utrecht and Amsterdam) ; daily to Cleves, whence a Rail, to Cologne. Steamers to Cologne (see Rte. 34) and down the Rhine (Rte. 11) to Rotter¬ dam in 8 hrs. daily. 74 ROUTE 6.—AMSTERDAM TO ZWOLLE AND K AM PEN. ROUTE 6. AMSTERDAM (OR ROTTERDAM), BY UTRECHT AND AMERSFOORT, TO ZWOLLE AND KAMPEN. Rail —Amsterdam to Utrecht, in Rte. 5, Centraal Spoorweg. Soest Stat. (Pop. 3300). Omnibus to Soestdyli , the summer residence of Prince Henry of the Netherlands, presented by the States of the Nether¬ lands to the late King, William II., when Prince of Orange, in recogni¬ tion of his skilful generalship at the battle of Quatre-bras. The mansion is an extensive whitewashed building, with no pretension to architectural display, but it is comfortably and luxuriously furnished, very prettily situated, and encircled by a wood many miles in extent. It contains several valuable paintings, &c., and may be viewed when the Prince is not in re¬ sidence. Immediately opposite this mansion is a splendid avenue of beech- trees ; at the bottom of this is a handsome obelisk erected by the nation in “grateful memory’' of the achieve¬ ments of the valiant Prince of Orange. Within the railed area are 2 cannons taken by the Dutch from the French at the battle of Quatre-bras. This pretty village is much resorted to on fine summer afternoons by tea and other parties. There is an Inn (with very inferior sleeping accommodation) with a garden where visitors can obtain usual refreshments. By a characteris¬ tically pretty walk of 3 m. through the wood of the same name we reach the village of Baarn (Pop. 2500), the summer abode of many of the wealthier inhabitants of Amsterdam and Utrecht. The houses, almost all of which are of modern erection, are elegantly com¬ fortable mansions, and surrounded by gardens such as the Dutch love to cultivate. Two of them attract great attention, and are certainly more worthy of it than are the childish absurdities of Broek “ peculiarities.” These are hand¬ some Chinese villas, and are respectively Sect. I. called Pekin and Canton. There is a good Inn in the village. Amersfoort Stat.— (Inn: Utrechtsche Wapen) 12,700 Iuhab., on the Eem— is noted as the birthplace of John Olden Barneveld, Grand Pensionary of Hol¬ land. The college for the education of Janscnist priests (see Utrecht) is esta¬ blished here. There are manufactures of bombazeen here, and much tobacco is cultivated and dried in the neigh¬ bourhood. Hardewijk Stat. (Pop. 5000). Here are the head-quarters and training- schools for recruits for the Dutch East Indian Service, an unruly and violent class of youths. Ilattcm Stat., an uninteresting and sleepy country town. Zwolle Stat. (Inns ; Iveizerskroon;— Heerenlogement), the capital of Over- ijssel, a prosperous commercial town of 20,000 Inhab., remarkable for its cleanliness, situated on a small stream called the Zwarte Water. The entrance from Deventer, through an old gateway with peaked turrets, is picturesque. There are good streets and spacious places. The reformed Ch. of St. Michael , a Gothic edifice with aisles as high as nave, contains a handsome carved pulpit (1625). Fine organ. The gardens and walks about the town are very agreeable. A convent, which once stood on the hill of St. Agnes, 3 m. dis¬ tant, was the residence, for 64 years, of Thomas a Kempis, whose work on the ‘ Imitation of Christ ’ is translated into almost every living language. He died here in 1471. The hill is now a cemetery , where the richer classes are buried: no graves can be dug on the low ground without coming to water. G. Terburg, the painter, was bom at Zwolle, 1608. On the canals may be seen barges filled with rushes—many persons live by platting them into baskets and mats. Kampcn Stat. (Inns: Hotel des Pays- Bas; the Dom Van Keulen. This seaport on the Zuider Zee lies at the mouth of the IJssel, here crossed by a fine bridge. It has 12,500 Inhab. Anciently one of the most flourishing Hanse Towns, it is now utterly without commerce. The Town-hall , a Gothic building, with Holland. ROUTE 7. -AMSTERDAM TO GRONINGEN, &C. statues of Charlemagne, Alexander, and of the Cardinal Virtues, and 2 fine Churches , bespeak its former prosperity. Count Horn, beheaded by Alva, was buried here. This is the only city in this heavily taxed country whose citizens live tax- free, the wealth of the municipality, the accumulations of past centuries of prosperity, rendering taxes unnecessary. Kampcn, like our Channel Islands, is consequently inhabited by numbers of small capitalists and pensioned officials, whose object is to make a little money go a long way. The traveller may here vary his journey by taking the daily steamer over the Zuider-zee to Amsterdam. EOUTE 7. AMSTERDAM TO HARLINGEN, LEEUWAR- DEN, GRONINGEN, ASSEN, MEPPEL, AND ZWOLLE—PAUPER COLONIES OF FREDERIKSOORD. Steamers from Amsterdam, from the Nieuwe Stads Iierberg, every morning to Enkhuizen (see Itte. 4), and 3 times a week in C>T hrs. to Harlingen (Inn : Ileerenlogement), a small but busy shipping place on the Zuider Zee, whence a large proportion of Friesland agricultural produce (but¬ ter, &c.) is exported to England. Pop. 10 , 000 . It stands on the site of a town swallowed up by the sea in 1134, and is itself protected by one of the largest dykes in Holland, 40 ft. high, fenced in at its base with 3 rows of piles driven into the ground. The monument erected by the Dutch to the Spanish Governor Tobias, who first introduced (1570) an improved method of con¬ structing these sea-walls, still exists S. of the town; gratitude for the benefits conferred having proved stronger than national hatred against a Spaniard. IO Steamers to London 2 or 3 a week • to Amsterdam 3 times a week. Itlj. o times a day in an hour to Leeuwarden by Francker Stat. {Inn: Heerenloge- ment): had a University , suppressed by Napoleon I., 1810, of which Vitringa, Heincccius, Hemsterhuis, Valckenaer, &c., were professors. Leeuwarden {Inn, Nieuwe Doelcn, very good), chief town of the pro¬ vince of Friesland, with a population of 25,000 souls. In one of the churches are monuments of the Stadholders of Friesland, which the French de¬ faced. The fortifications are turned into plantations. Leeuwarden possesses a large and handsome Townhouse. The facade of the House of Correction (Huis van Burgerlijke cn Militaire Verzeker- ing), with the date MD., is worthy of observation. It is a rich specimen of mixed brick and stone work, with 7 statues representing Virtues, &c., upon the steps of the quaint gable. Just within the Harlingen gate stands a fine old leaning clrurch tower, of red bricks and grey stone: the body of the church was destroyed by a storm. From the top of the tower is a fine view over the rich pastures of Friesland to Harlingen. No province of Holland has pre¬ served, to the same extent, its ancient manners and costumes as that of Fries¬ land. The head-dress of the women, the gold hoops and pendants, and the beautiful lace caps, are especially de¬ serving of remark. Such a head-dress sometimes costs 2000 guilders. These costumes may be seen in perfection at Leeuwarden on market-day (Friday). The women are celebrated for beauty. Many of the towns, villages, and even farmhouses, and all the old churches, are built on mounds (teepen) raised above the surface, which originally afforded refuge to the inhabitants from inun¬ dation, before the country was properly dyked. The Frieslanders pride them¬ selves on having been from the earliest times a free and independent people, governed by laws of their own, enacted at their legislative assemblies during the middle ages. Frisic is still the language of the inhabitants of Ileligo- E 2 76 Sect. I. ROUTE 7. —GRONINGEN. ASSEN. MErPEL. land and the holt of islands that extends along the coast from the Zuider Zee to Jutland, and is also spoken in some villages and districts of E. and W. Friesland and Sleswick. Diligences 3 times a day in 6 hrs. to Groningen ( Inns : Doelen ; Nieuwe Munster: both good), a fortified town (Coehorn) and prosperous seaport, very regularly built, at the junction of the Idunse and Aa ; the most important in the N. provinces of Holland. 36,500 Inhab. The University , founded in 1615, is frequented by about 300 students, and has an excellent museum of natural histoiy. The finest buildings are the great Church of St. Martin , a handsome pointed Gothic structure, grand and lofty choir, noble tower like that of Utrecht 1627); and the Hotel de Ville, modern 1810), faced with Portland stone; both situated in the Brecde Markt, one of the grandest squares in Holland. On the Oxenmarkt is the monument of Guyot, the founder of an institution for the deaf and dumb, which is still flourishing. By means of a canal called Schuiten- diep, large vessels come up from the sea to the town. Diligences 3 times a day to Assen. A town of only 5000 In¬ hab., though the chief place in the pro ince of Drenthe. It has two Inns; both execrable : the Post is the least had. (Gobbler Homer.) Near Assen, at Ballo and Suidlaaren, occur examples of those very singular sepulchres of an ancient people, commonly called Hi'me- beddcn : they are usually large stones placed upright in the ground, in rows, surrounded by circles of smaller stones, or covered by others laid across, and open at the end; some are 80 feet long. Urns, hatchets, hammers, and other articles of wood and stone, but none of metal, have been found in them. Dili¬ gences 3 times a day to Meppel. — Inn , Ilcerenlogement. [About 15 m. from Meppel, and 3 from Steenwijk, are the Pauper Agri¬ cultural Colonies of Frederiksoord and Willemsoord. There is a tolerable inn on the spot. Pop. 6700. The great increase of mendicity in Holland after the years of scarcity, 1816 and 1817, led to the formation of a So¬ ciety of Charity (Maatschappij van Wel- dadiglieid), for the purpose of rescuing from beggary able-bodied labourers and their families, by settling them on waste lands, employing them in rendering these wastes productive, and by educating their children. The society was esta¬ blished at the Hague, which is still the seat of the direction, under the patronage of the King, and under Prince Frederick as President. In a short time more than 20,000 subscribers were en¬ rolled, who contributed in all 70,00011. (about 5850/.) With these funds and other resources the society commenced operations by the purchase of 3000 acres on the borders of Drenthe and Overijssel, a small part arable land, the rest barren heath, upon which were founded in 1818 the Free Colonies of Frederiksoord, Wilhelms, and Williel- minasoord. Hoads were constructed to the estate, and the river Aa, which flows past it, was rendered navigable to the Zuider Zee. The estate was then divided into lots of 7-f„ acres, each of which was calculated to be able to sup¬ port a family of 6 persons—father, mother, and 4 children — who were offered a well-built house, a milch cow, free schooling for their children, and medical aid gratis, in return for a payment of 1700 guilders (141/. 13s. 4 d.), to be advanced by the parish, almshouse, or individual relieved of the pauper family. This sum, whose payment might be spread over 16 years, was in¬ tended to defray the cost of house, im¬ plements, and furniture, and the main¬ tenance of the family until the land should be brought into condition to maintain them, after which it was ex¬ pected they would be able to pay the society a small rent, equal to the in¬ terest of the capital expended. The population averages 2542 persons, or 425 families, each occupying a separate house. The able-bodied men and women are employed in agricultural labour; those unfitted for such work, including chil dren above 13, are employed in weaving; and the cloth produced by 400 looms, situated in 4 factories and in private houses, defrays, by its sale, part 77 Holland . route 7 . —society of charity : penal colonies. of the expenses of the colony, producing nearly 20,000 1. a-year. The result of this benevolent experiment, as far as regards making the colony self-maintain¬ ing, has not been successful. Out of the whole number of colonists not more than from 16 to 20 at one time have freed themselves from debt to the so¬ ciety, and are able to pay the small rent demanded of 50 guilders (4/. 3s. Ad.). This is the more remarkable, because on farms immediately contiguous to the co¬ lony—of equally barren land—there are peasants who pay their landlords rents of 70 and 80 florins, without the advan¬ tages of the colonists, and yet succeed. The reason—as Sir John McNeil, who visited the colonies in 1852, explains— is that the colonists have no self-reliance. The certainty that the society will main¬ tain them blunts their exertions, leaves them in arrear, while the cotters outside the colony pay rent and prosper. The idle are compelled to work, or, if they refuse, are sent off to the penal colony of Ommerschans. The children are in¬ structed in the schools, and are kept entirely in the schools until they are 12 years old, or, if backward, 13; they then commence work at weaving or out- of-door work, &c., until they reach 20 to 23 years of age, when they are desired to provide for themselves. There are places of worship for Lutherans, Catholics, and Jews. The education of the children is intrusted to the care of the managers. The houses are built with bricks formed from the clay dug on the spot, cemented with lime produced from shells brought from the sea-shore, and burnt with turf found on the land. The houses are built at intervals along the side of broad roads crossing each other at right angles, and are all on one plan, and are well adapted for the comforts of a family. They are thatched with reeds, which are said to be more durable than straw or heather, lasting from 20 to 30 years. The general aspect of the colony is pleasing and thriving; the land is brought under good tillage, and forms a sort of oasis in the desert. Besides these two free colonies, two others, having much the character of Penal Colonies, have been established one at T eenhuizen, 15 m. from Lrc- deriksoord and 9 from Assen, but situated on the same uninterrupted heath. One establishment here is de¬ voted to the reception of orphans and foundlings from the different asylums in the towns of Holland, for whoso maintenance the government pays to the society a stated sum annually. In other respects it is a mendicity colony. It corresponds nearly in its character, arrangements, and discipline with that of Ommerschans , a few miles from Mep- pel. This was a dilapidated fortress, situated also in the midst of a heath. It serves as a penitentiary for refractory free colonists, and for the amendment of beggars and idle persons, but not criminals, sent by their parishes or the government for a certain number of years, to reform idle habits. They are compelled to work either as field la¬ bourers or in the workshops. Punish¬ ments of various kinds are inflicted on the refractory. A value is put on their daily work, and they receive a certain portion for themselves. The colony is not self-supporting. The number of detenus in Ommerschans and Veenhuizen amounts to about4520, including women and children. Their escape is pre¬ vented partly by a canal which sur¬ rounds the building, partly by a cordon of watchmen established in 25 cottages built in a circle, at the distance of 5 minutes’ walk from one another. The experiment has been tried now for 30 years, and though, in point of profit, it has not realized the sanguine expectations of its projectors, nor is likely to do so, yet it has succeeded in the benevolent obj ect at which it aimed, by rescuing many hundred individuals and families, previously paupers and friendless, from vice and destitution, making them useful members of society; and in rendering fertile and profitable large tracts of land previously desert and useless. The expenses of these co¬ lonies have indeed become so great a burden, that the government has been seriously contemplating their abolition, and is only withheld from such a step by not knowing how to provide for the persons supported on them. It has been calculated by Sir John McNeil ROUTE 8.—GRONINGEN TO EMBDEN AND LEER. Sect. I. H Q ( o that each pauper costs the Dutch go¬ vernment 6/. 13s. 4c?., while in Great Britain each pauper costs the state less than hi. per annum. Moreover the Dutch society is in debt, and its estates would not suffice to clear it. It is, therefore, evident that the pauper co¬ lonies cannot compare in utility or suc¬ cess with the Poor Law system of our own country. The founder and originator of these institutions was the late General Yan den Bosch, who was the first di¬ rector. While serving in the Dutch colonies in the East, he purchased an estate in the island of Java, and devoted much of his time to improvements in agriculture. It did not long escape his observation that the estate of a native mandarin, which lay next to his own, and resembled it in soil and situation, never failed, in spite of all the pains he took with his own land, to produce far finer crops. This induced him to form an acquaintance with his neigh¬ bour, from whom he learnt a system which proved so beneficial, that the estate, which he purchased in Java for 25,000 rix dollars, fetched 150,000 when sold, on his departure from the country. The secret of the mandarin’s luxuriant crop appears to have been the attention he paid to obtaining a good stock of manure for his land; to this the efforts of the colonists are studiously directed,] Diligences twice a day from Meppel to Zwolle, where the traveller can either take the Central rly. (Ete. 6) or the diligence to Deventer (Ete. 9). From Zwolle steamers daily to Harlingen, Deventer, Zutphen, Arnhem, and Nijmegen. Barges to Appeldoorn (Ete. 9). Weener on the Ems, here a broad river, crossed by a ferry for horses and carriages. ROUTE 8. GRONINGEN TO EMBDEN AND LEER. On this route the traveller can vary the monotony of his diligence journey by taking the steamer, barge, or Trek- schuit (here called snikken ) to Apping- adam (pop. 4000), a flourishing little town, hut possessing- little interest for the passing traveller; thence he can proceed, by similar conveyance, to Delfzijl, a village of 1800 Inhab., situated on the Ems (Am, De Beurs). Here there are steamers daily that cross the Dollartin about 1J hr. to Embden. Embden Stat. (Ain, The White House), a fortified town, capital of the Hano¬ verian province of E. Friesland, con¬ tains about 12,500 Inhab. It has the most extensive trade in oats of any port in Europe. It lies in a marshy situation; hut the land around it is of great fertility, yielding, besides oats, much butter and cheese. In the Rath- haus , a budding in Eenaissance style, 1570, is a collection of ancient arms and armour, especially rich in early fire-arms—part of the spoils, it is said, of Count Ernst of Mansfeld, captured in a vessel freighted for England with the booty of the Thirty Years’ war. The town lies below the level of the Ems, and is defended against it by strong dykes , notwithstanding which it has suffered from repeated inunda¬ tions. A canal between strong dykes connects Embden with the deep water of the Dollart, and protects the town by a high and strong embankment against the incursions of this estuary. In 1826 the water stood in the streets for 3 months up to the first floor of the houses. On the ramparts were buried many thousand British officers and soldiers who died here from the sufferings they endured in the re¬ treat of the Duke of York’s army from Holland, in the dreadful winter of 1795. The relics of that force, and among them Arthur Wellesley, em¬ barked here. Holland . ROUTE 9. —ARNHEM TO ZUTPHEN AND ZWOLLE. Backhuisen and Moucheron, painters, were born here. Steamers to Delfzyl in Groningen every day during the bathing season. A Railway , opened 1856, to Leer, and by Papenburg, Meppen, and Lingen, to Rheine, where it joins the lines to Osnabriick and Munster. (Rte. 69)-. Leer ( Inn ; Prinz v. Oranjen), a town of 7000 Inhab., with a considerable trade to England in agricultural produce. Between Leer and Oldenburg, in the middle of the swamp, is a little pri¬ mitive district called Saterland, where the old Frisian language is still spoken. Travellers bound for Oldenburg and Bre¬ men may proceed on at once by dili¬ gence from Leer to Oldenburg, a jour¬ ney of 8 or 9 lirs. Steamers proceed up the Ems beyond Leer. Meppen Stat. (Hotel Biinger.) Rheine Junct. Stat. Buffet. (Hotel, Schulze.) ROUTE 9. ARNHEM TO ZUTPHEN, DEVENTER, AND ZWOLLE. Arnhem (Rte. 5). Trains 5 times a day to Zutphen. Rail in progress to Zwolle. Zutphen Stat. (Inn: Kroon), a strong fortress and ancient grand-looking town, 13,100 Inhab., at the junction of the Berckel with the IJssel. The chief Protestant Church (of St. Walburga) is a very fine Gothic building (1105) ; its great tower has been rebuilt since 1600, when the original one was destroyed by lightning. Within are mo¬ numents of the Counts of Zutphen, over one of which is hung a Gothic chan¬ delier of iron gilt, and a modern monu¬ ment to the family Yan Heekeren. 79 There is a curious Gothic font of copper, and the bas-reliefs on the pulpit merit notice. In the church is a library of old books, many of them fastened to the shelves hy chains. The Roman Catholics and the Ana¬ baptists have churches here. The Chimes are placed in the tower of the Weighing House : there is an¬ other large square tower called Drogenass. It was on the battle-field of Warns- feld, a little to the E. of Zutphen, that the gallant Sir Philip Sidney received his death-wound, Sept. 22, 1586, after an action in which the English had sig¬ nally defeated the veteran Spaniards under the Marquess of Guasto. Stretched on the ground, bleeding and parched with thirst, the English hero displayed the well-known instance of humanity, in desiring that the cup of water in¬ tended for him should be given to the dying soldier at his side. A Steamer goes every day to Am¬ sterdam, in summer. Yelp Stat. A pretty village (3000 pop.) much resorted to as a summer residence by the wealthier classes. Here the traveller may spend a very pleasant day of rest, and will find him¬ self supplied with all the conveniences of good hotels. Steeg. 1 Dieren. > Stats. Brummen. j Deventer Stat. Deventer ( Inns; Nieuwe Keizers Kr oon (Imperial Crown), best, but bad; ’t Wapen van Overijssel), a thriving town on the bank of the IJssel, 16,862 Inhab., and a considerable iron-foundry and carpet manufactory. The Church of St. Luben is a vast and interesting edifice, in the early Gothic style,, hav¬ ing 3 aisles of equal height, surmounted by a handsome W. tower; it has a Romanesque crypt, with twisted and channeled piers ; it contains some good painted glass. In the Town-hall is a picture by G. Terburg , representing the Town Council assembled. The English forces under the Earl of Leicester gained possession of Deventer in 1586. The Berg Kirk retains many cannon-balls, re¬ lics of that siege. Col. Wm. Stanley, who was appointed governor, treacherously 80 ROUTE 10. -ROTTERDAM TO yielded it to the Duke of Parma in 1587, taking over with him his regi¬ ment of 1300 men, believing his duty to his country to be incompatible with that which he owed to the Romish faith ! This is the native place of the philologer Gronovius; and Erasmus was educated here at a school kept by the monks, and hence derived his hatred of religious brotherhoods. Deventer is ce¬ lebrated for its gingerbread , of which many thousand pounds are annually exported; and with a view to keep up its reputation, an officer, appointed by the magistrates, inspects the cakes before they are baked, in order to ascertain that, the dough is properly mixed. Tra¬ vellers should ask for the Deventer Koek, at the shop of W. J. Smies, called the Allemans Gading, in the Groote Kerkhof E., No. 1354. From Deventer the traveller can pro¬ ceed to Zwolle (Rte. 6, 7) by diligence or steamer, until the railway thither be completed. Within a pleasant drive from De¬ venter is Appeldoorn, a pretty village. (7000 Inhab.) Not far from it is the Palace of the Zoo, the summer residence of the King of Holland: the gardens are ex¬ tensive, but flat; they contain fine sheets of water. It was the favourite retreat of "William III., who repaired hither to hunt. There is a good Inn near the palace. UTRECHT, COLOGNE, &C. Sect. I. ROUTE 10. ROTTERDAM (BY GOUDA) OR AMSTERDAM TO UTRECHT, ARNIIEM, COLOGNE, &C. Trains 10 times a day from Rotterdam. Travellers on taking their tickets to Cologne should be careful to state by which route they wish to proceed—via Emmerich or via Cleves. By taking the latter route, they will save about an hour on the journey. 10 Eng. m. to Gouda. 10 trains daily. 11m. Gouda Stat. or Tergouw. Inns ; Ilerthuis, good; Salmon (Zalm). A decayed town of 15,000 Inhab.; with a large grass-grown square. The large Gh. of St. John {.Ians Kerk, fee 4 stivers) is famous for its painted glass windows, considered to be nearly the finest in Europe. They are for the most part 30 ft. high (2 are nearly double that height), and finished with great attention to the details, but are of various degrees of merit. They were executed, be¬ tween 1560 and 1603, by 2 brothers, Dirk and Wouter Crabeth , and their pupils and assistants. One (No. 10), having been destroyed by a storm, was restored in 1655, and by its inferiority proves the art to have been then on the decline. The finest are by the Crabeths, and are pointed out by their initials in the following enumeration. They were presents from towns or wealthy indi¬ viduals, made on the rebuilding of the church after a fire, about the year 1560. Very elaborate drawings of them, by Christoph. Pierson , are preserved in the vestry. A small book, very diverting, from its quaint English and mis-spell¬ ing, is sold by the verger for 5 stivers, intituled “ Explanation of the famous and renowned Glas-worlc or painted Windows, in the fine and eminent Church at Gouda, for the use and com¬ modity of both Inhabitans and Foreign¬ ers that come to see this artificial work.” The subjects of the windows arc as fol¬ lows, beginning on the left hand on entering the church by the door under the steeple:—1. An allegorical repre- Holland. KOUTE 10. —GOUDA. 81 sentation of Liberty of Conscience. 2. The taking of Damietta by the Emperor Frederic Barbarossa in the 3rd Crusade. 3. The Virgin of Dort. 4. Justice and Valour with the Arms of the Lords of Rhineland. 5. The Queen of Sheba visits Solomon, by W. Crabeth. 6. Siege of Bethulia : Beheading of Ho- lofemes, by D. Crabetli . 7. The Last Slipper, with Queen Mary of England and Philip II. of Spain, the donors, kneeling. The upper part of this window was destroyed by a hailstorm. By D. C. 8. The Sacrilege of Helio- dorus, by W. C. 9. The Angel appear¬ ing to Zach arias. 10. The Annuncia¬ tion. 11. Birth of John the Baptist. 12. The Nativity, by W. C. 13. Christ among the Doctors. 14. John the Bap¬ tist Preaching, by D.C. 15. The Bap¬ tism of Christ, by D. C. 16. Sermon on the Mount, by P. C 17. John the Baptist rebuking Herod, 18. John the Baptist’s Disciples questioning Christ, by D.C. 19. Beheading of John the Baptist. 20 and 21 represent the Suf¬ ferings, Resurrection, and Ascension of Christ. 22. The Money-changers driven from the Temple, by D. C. 23. The Offering of Elijah before the Priests of Baal, by W. C. 24. The Angel send¬ ing Philip to baptize the Ethiopian, and Peter and John healing the Lame Man, by D. C. 25. The Relief of Lei¬ den, and Raising the Siege. 26. The Relief of Samaria. 27. The Pharisee and Publican in the Temple. 28. The Woman taken in Adultery. 29. Nathan reproving David. 30. The Whale cast¬ ing forth Jonah. 31. In the S. tran¬ sept, Balaam and his Ass. Besides these, there are 13 windows above the choir, representing Christ and his Apostles. The church contains a very power¬ ful and sweet-toned organ, in which the vox humana stop is especially fine. The Hotel de Ville was the residence of Jacqueline of Bavaria, whose part was taken by the citizens during the civil wars of the Hoeks and Kabel- jauws (Hooks and Codfish, the names of two factions, like Whig and Tory with us). It was of fine old red brick and stone, but has been whitewashed. There are large manufactories of bricks here. The clay for bricks is scraped up out of the bed of the IJssel, with a sort of hoe having a sack at¬ tached to it, and is particularly well adapted for the purpose, Tobacco-pipes were also made here in large quantities. The clay for them was brought from the banks of the Moselle, and the neighbourhood of Namur. The pipes are shaped in moulds of brass ; but the most difficult operation, the boring, is done by the hand, with a piece of iron wire blunt at the extremity, and re¬ quires great dexterity in the workmen. The trade has fallen off, owing to the prevalence of cigars. Very few people are now employed in it. The best cheese in Holland is a new- milk cheese called Gouda cheese, being- made near this town. The Rhine communicates, for ship navigation, with the IJssel and Meuse, by Gouda. A ship-lock at the Gouda Sluis passes the vessel across the dyke of the Rhine into a spacious canal connected with the Kromme Gouda river. This last was made in 1281 as a slaker to the Rhine. It is 9 m. long, and has an excellent tide-lock at Gouda, 153 ft. long and 25 ft. wide. Oudewater Stat. ) places memora- Woerden Stat. J ble as the scenes of the atrocities committed by the French army, under Marshal Lux¬ emburg, in 1672. Their cruelty, as described by Voltaire, is not exagge¬ rated : so great was the aversion which it inspired in the minds of the Dutch, who were witnesses of their conduct, that descriptions of the war, called “ Fransche Tyranny,” were written and printed as school-books for their chil¬ dren to read, calculated to hand down an inheritance of hate for their enemies to future generations. Pop. 4300. Here is a large military prison. Harmelen Stat. Utrecht Junction Stat. j Driebergen Stat. / Rte. 5. Arnhem Stat. J The train, via Cleves, crosses the Rhine a few miles above Zevenaar on fleet steamers worked by powerful en¬ gines, and secured on both shores by stranded iron cables of great strength (Rte. 35). E 3 82 ROUTE 11. —THE RHINE. Sect. I. ROUTE 11. THE RHINE, A, FROM ROTTERDAM TO NIJMEGEN. Travellers, whether in search of amusement or pressed for time, should avoid the voyage up the lower part of the Rhine, below Cologne, because there are two other very interesting routes from England to Cologne; one by Rotterdam, Hague, Amsterdam, and Utrecht (Rtes. 2 and 5); the other by Ostend, or Antwerp, and Brussels (Rtes. 17, 21, and 23). The best way to visit the Rhine from England is to go by Belgium and its railways, and return by Holland down the Rhine. The Rhine below Cologne is a most uninteresting river , with high dykes on each side, which protect the flat country from in¬ undations and intercept all view, save of a few villages, church steeples, and farm-houses, painted of various colours, which are seen peering above them. Between Rotterdam and Nijmegen there is a risk of sitting on a sandbank for an hour or two till the tide rises, and there is always a detention of some hours at the Prussian frontier. Steamboats leave Rotterdam every morning at 5 and 10 in the summer, and every day in the latter part of the sea¬ son. They reach Nijmegen or Arnhem in about 10 hrs. For Fares refer to the printed hills of the company. The best and fastest steamers ascend in 2 days from Rotterdam to Cologne, stopping for the night at Emmerich. The steamers of the Netherlands Com¬ pany have glass cabins on deck, so that passengers in rainy weather can look around them under shelter. They have also sleeping apartments, each contain¬ ing 2 beds and a sofa, which can he hired, for the whole passage, for 6 florins including the steward’s fee. Passengers unprovided with sleeping- berths are compelled by the police regu¬ lations to leave the boat, when she stops for the night, at Emmerich, and to sleep on shore. The State Cabin has the advantage over the first cabin, that it is private ; it is, therefore, often convenient to secure it for a party in which there are several ladies. The Railway from Rotterdam to Co¬ logne, by Gouda, Utrecht (Rte. 10), and Emmerich or Cleves, will be preferred by most travellers to the voyage up the Rhine. The Rhine , flowing out of Germany into Holland, descends in an undivided stream as far as the point of the Delta (the Insula Batavorum of the Romans). At a place called Pannerden it splits into two branches. From this division of its stream, Virgil applies the epithet bicomis to the Rhine (/En. viii. 727). The left-hand branch, called the Waal or Vahal, directing its course W., passes Nijmegen, joins the Meuse, and, in conjunction with it, assumes the name of Merwe. The other branch, which, after the first separation, retains the name of Rhine, turns northward; \ a league above Arnhem it throws out an arm called IJssel, known to the ancients as Fossa Drusi , because it was formed by Drusus in the reign of Augustus : it falls into the Zuider Zee after passing Zutphcn, Deventer, and Campcn. The river after this continues on past Arn¬ hem to Wijk by Duurstede, and there again divides, throwing off to the 1. an arm called the Lek, which falls into the Maas a little above Rotterdam. The other arm, still retaining the ori¬ ginal name of Rhine, after this sepa¬ ration, divides for the last time at Utrecht; the offset is called the Vecht, and flows into the Zuider Zee. The old Rhine, the sole remnant of the once mighty river which carries its name to the sea, assumes the appearance of a canal, and, after passing sluggishly the town of Leiden, enters the ocean through the sluice-gates of Eat wijk (see Rte. 2). a. THE WAAL. The Waal is the largest and most important of the 4 branches into which the Rhine divides its stream on reach¬ ing Holland. On quitting Rotterdam the guard- 83 Holland, route 11. —the Rhine : waal branch, dort ship is passed, and (/.) Fijenoord, the largest engineering establishment, steamboat-builder’s yard, and foundry in Holland. Numerous country seats of rich Rotterdam merchants are scat¬ tered along the banks. The narrow arm of the Maas, called Spaniard’s-Diep, is lined with shipyards, cottages, and windmills. The river Lek here falls into the Maas. A short distance higher up lies— l. Dort or Dordrecht (Inns : Rellevuc, near the steamers; Goudo Leeuw), one of the oldest towns in Holland, with 23,500 Inliab., and con¬ siderable trade, on the expanse of the Maas, formed by the inundation of 1416, which separated Dort from the mainland. The depth of water is sufficient to admit deeply laden East Indiamen. The first Assembly of the States of Holland, held after their revolt from the yoke of Spain, met at Dort in 1572, and declared the Prince of Orange Stadholder, and the only lawful Go¬ vernor of the country. In an ancient Gothic building, stand¬ ing in a back street, and now degraded into a poor public-house, called Klove- niers Doelen , the famous assembly of Protestant divines, known as the Synod of Dort , was held, 1618-19. It lasted 6 months, during which there were 152 sittings, unprofitable occupied, for the most part, in discussing the incom¬ prehensible questions of Predestination and Grace. At the conclusion the pre¬ sident declared that u its miraculous labours had made hell tremble.” The result of its labours was to declare the Calvinistic doctrines respecting predes¬ tination the established faith, and to condemn Arminius and his followers as heretics. The ordinances then passed were long the law of the Dutch national church. The apartment in which the Synod met is still preserved unaltered; but is converted into a ball-room, or temporarily into a theatre ! The Gothic Church (date 1339), con¬ spicuous at a long distance, owing to its tall square tower, contains carved stalls, a sculptured pulpit of white marble (date 1756), numerous monu¬ ments, (and some church plate of massive gold, presented by an East India mer¬ chant. Within this ch., in 1793, was in¬ terred Lieut. John Western, R.N in the presence of the Duke of York ; '’tho Grenadier Guards attending as firing- party. This young officer was killed at Moerdyk, March 21. 6 days pre¬ vious he had succeeded, while in com¬ mand of 3 gunboats, each containing 4 12-pounders and 16 men, in compelling a French army 5000 strong to abandon the siege of Willemstadt, so that the garrison were enabled next morning to march out and take possession of the French camp, guns, and ammunition. The Mint , though no longer used as such, it having been transferred to Utrecht, is a building of the 15th cent. Dort serves as a haven for the gigantic rafts of wood, the produce of the forests of Switzerland and the Schwarzwald, which are brought down the Rhine by crews of from 400 to 500 men each, and are here broken up and sold. A single raft sometimes produces 30,000h A description of them will be found in the route from Cologne to Mayence. The brother statesmen De Witt were born here; also Cuyp, Schalken, and Ary Scheffer (to whom a statue was raised 1862), the painters; and Vossius. After a general survey of the town, which is truly Dutch in its combination of sluices and canals, and a visit to the old church, the timber-ponds where the raft-wood is collected, the windmills where it is sawn into planks, and the ship-builders’ yards, there is nothing to detain a traveller here. A constant communication is kept up by steam¬ boats with Rotterdam and Moerdijk, which is the terminus of the railroad from Rotterdam to Antwerp (Rte. 13). Dort stands on an island formed by a terrible inundation in 1421, when the tide in the estuary of the Rhine, excited by a violent tempest, burst through a dyke, overwhelming a populous and productive district, which it at once converted into a waste of waters, called the Biesbosch (i. e. rushwood, from bies, rush, whence the English besom), part of which still exists. 72 villages and 100,000 human beings were swal- 84 ROUTE 11.—THE RHINE. LOEVESTEIN. GROTIUS. Sect. I. lowed up by tbe waves. 35 of the vil¬ lages were irretrievably lost, so that no vestige, even of tbe ruins, could after¬ wards be discovered. The only relic preserved from tbe waters is a solitary tower, called tbe house of Merwede. By this inundation the number of the mouths of the Bhine was increased, and the Waal was made double its former size. Many maps, as well as guide¬ books, represent this district as still under water, but a large part of it has been recovered; still the river here spreading out bears the aspect of a lake interspersed with numerous islands, un¬ inhabited, but producing hay in abun¬ dance. The country about Dort seems choked with water; every hollow is full, and the fear is excited lest, by the rising of the Bhine a foot, or even an inch or two, the whole should at once be over¬ whelmed by the waters. The Ablasser Waard, near Gorcum, lies considerably lower than the bottom of the bed of the Bhine ! There are numerous and in¬ tricate sandbanks between Dort and rt. Gorcum, orGorinchem (Pop. 9000), an old walled town, at the junction of the Merwe and Linge, and one of the first places taken by the Water Gueux from the Spaniards in 1572 ; but they sullied their victory with the murder of 19 Catholic priests, for which their com¬ mander, Lumey, was disgraced by the States General. The anniversary of the Holy Martyrs of Gorcum is still ob¬ served in the Bomish calendar. The canal of Zcderick connects Gorcum on the Merwe with Yianen on the Lek. Nearly opposite Gorcum is (l.) Woud- richem, or Worcum. (1.) The Castle of Loevcstein , situated on the west point of the island of Bom- mel, formed by the united streams of the Meuse and the Waal, was the prison of Grot-ins in 1619. The history of his escape in a box, March 22, 1621, gives an interest to the spot:—“ He beguiled the tedious hours of confinement by study, relieving his mind by varying its objects. Ancient and modern lite¬ rature equally engaged his attention. Sundays he wholly dedicated to prayer and the study of theology. He com¬ posed the greater part of the ‘ Jus Belli et Pads’ here. 20 months of impri¬ sonment thus passed away. His wife now began to devise projects for his liberty. She had observed that he was not so strictly watched as at first—that the guards who examined the chest used for the conveyance of his books and linen, being accustomed to see nothing in it but books and linen, be¬ gan to examine them loosely; at length they permitted the chest to pass without any examination. Upon this she formed her project for her husband’s release.” She accommodated the chest to her purpose, by boring some holes in it to let in air. She intrusted her maid with the secret, and the chest was conveyed to Grotius’s apartment. She then re¬ vealed her project to him, and, after much entreaty, prevailed on him to get into the chest, and leave her in the prison. The books which Grotius bor¬ rowed were usually sent to Gorcum, and the chest which contained them passed in a boat from the prison at Loevestein to that town. Big ydth the fate of Grotius, the chest, as soon as he was enclosed in it, was moved into the boat, accompanied by the maid. One of the soldiers ob¬ serving that it was uncommonly heavy, the maid answered, “It is the Arminian books which are so heavy.” The soldier replied, apparently in joke, “ Perhaps it is the Arminian himself;” and then, without more ado, the chest was lodged in the boat. The maid accompanied it to Gorcum, and, when fairly afloat, made a signal with her handkerchief to her mistress that all was right. The window where Grotius’s wife stood is still pointed out in Loevestein. The passage from Loevestein to Gorcum took a considerable time. At length it reached Gorcum, and was deposited at the house of Jacob Daatzelaar, an Ar¬ minian friend of Grotius. The maid flew instantly to him, and told him that her master was in the box; but Daat¬ zelaar, terrified for the consequences, declared he would have nothing to do with so dangerous a matter. Luckily his wife had more courage; she sent away the servants on different errands, opened the chest, and set Grotius free. He declared that while he was in the 85 Holland. R. 11.-—THE RHINE : LEK BRANCH. SCHOONHOVEN. chest, which was not more than 3§ ft. long, he had felt a little faintness and much anxiety, but had suffered no other inconvenience. Having dressed him¬ self as a mason, with a rule and trowel, he went through the hack door of Daat- zelaar’s house, accompanied by Daatze- laar’s wife’s brother, a mason by trade, along the market-place, to a boat en¬ gaged for the purpose. It conveyed them to Waalwijk, in Brabant, where he was safe. In the mean time every precaution had been taken by Madame de Groot to conceal her husband’s de¬ parture from the governor and his jailors. She took particular care to light the lamp in the room where Gro- tius was in the habit of studying ; and the governor, upon his return home in the evening, remarking the light in Grotius’s window, concluded that his prisoner was quite safe. Madame de Groot was not detained long in prison, and rejoined her husband soon after in Paris. There is usually a frigate in the Dutch navy bearing the name of Gro- tius’s wife, Marie van Beigersberch : history has rescued from oblivion the name of the trusty maid-servant also— it was Elsje van Houwening. 1. Bommel— Inn, Ilof van Guelder- land—once a fortress, was besieged in vain by the Spaniards 1599, and taken by Turenne 1672. Its fortifications were destroyed in 1629. (Pop. 3500.) The island of Bommel, Bommeler Waard, between the Waal and the Meuse, which here unite their waters, is defended on the E. by Fort St. Andre, and on the W. by Fort Loevestein. 10 m. S. of Bommel lies Hertogen- bosch (Bois-lc-duc). (See Bte. 13.) rt. Tiel, a pretty town of 6000 Inhab., and birthplace of General Cliasse, the defender of Antwerp cita¬ del. 66 m. above Botterdam lies— l . Nijmegen. Bte. 5. Steamers daily to Arnhem, Doesburgh, Zwolle, and Kampen. Dilvjences daily to Arnhem, Breda, Bois-le-duc, and Tilburg. The voyage from Nijmegen to Co¬ logne by water, about 125 m., is de¬ scribed in Bte. 34, b. THE LEK FROM ROTTERDAM TO ARNIIEM. Steamers rarely take this course : the Lek is often so low as to preclude the passage of a steamer altogether. rt. Xrimpen aan de Lek. rt. Lekker Iverk. rt. Schoonhoven ( Inn: Hcerenloge- ment), about 20 m. above Botterdam, is famous for its salmon fisheries. 1. Nieuwpoort, about a mile Bom Schoonhoven, opposite to it. rt. Yreeswijk is the landing-place for passengers going to Utrecht and Am¬ sterdam. 1. Yianen, which is opposite to Yreeswijk, is said to be the Fanum Fiance of Ptolemy. It formed part of the patrimony of the patriot Count of Brederode, who fortified it for the Prince of Orange on the outbreak of the revolt of the Netherlands. Between Yianen and Kuilenburg there are sluices in the banks of the river, designed solely for laying the country under water in case of foreign invasion. If they were opened, the in¬ undation would at once spread as far S, as the Waal, as far as Dort to the W., and to the Noort in an opposite direc¬ tion. A military inundation of this kind is a mode of defence peculiar to Holland. It effectually cuts off the means of approach from an army either by land or water; it covers both roads and canals, leaving an enemy in igno¬ rance of their direction and course; and, while it is deep enough to check the march of troops or cannon, it is so interrupted by shallows and dykes, as to render its navigation by boats equally impracticable. 1. Kuilenburg. Inns: Bose; Yer- gulde Ilooft. A town of 5000 Inhab. rt. Wijk by Duurstede. The branch of the Bhine which alone retains that name to the sea here separates from the Lek, and under the name Kromme Rijn (winding Bhine), descends to Utrecht, where again dividing, it sends one branch, the Yecht rt. to the Zuider Zee, while the other, the Oude Bhin, enters the German Ocean after passing Leiden to Katwijk, where it is now discharged into the ocean by means of sluice-gates 80 ROUTE 12.—ROTTERDAM TO ANTWERP*. RAIL. Sect. T. (Rte. 2.). The Lek was originally a canal dug by the Romans to unite the Rhine and Maas; its bed became sud¬ denly enlarged by an inundation in 839, by which the main stream was thrown into it. 1. Eck and Wiel, near rt. Amerongen. Amerongen itself is situated at a little distance from the river. Lord Athlone has a seat near here. rt. Rheenen [Inn, Koning van Bo- heme, had) is a town of 1600 Inhab., on the middle branch of the Rhine. There is nothing to he seen here hut an old Gothic church with a handsome tower. A large quantity of tobacco is cultivated in this district. Frederick, K. of Bohemia, lived here in retirement, under the protection of his uncle P. Maurice of Orange. A little out of Rheenen, 1. of the road to Amerongen, at the entrance of a meadow, under some willow-trees, the English tra¬ veller will remark the mounds under which the hones of some hundreds of his countrymen are mouldering. In 1794 the hospital for the prisoners taken in the Duke of York’s army was at Rheenen, and, the mortality being very great, this spot became the cemetery of the hospital. rt. Wageningen, 14 m. from Arn¬ hem [Inn, Hof van Guelderland, not good), an inconsiderable town, of about 4500 Inhab., supposed to ho the ad Vada of the Romans: it is connected with the Rhine by a short canal. On the opposite side of the river to Wagen- ingen is a flat district of meadow-land, called the island of Betuwe, because isolated by the Lek and Waal; it re¬ tains in its name a memorial of the ancient inhabitants of this country, the Batavi. 1. Heteren. rt. Arnhem. (Route 5.) Rly. Stat. rt. 3 m. above Arnhem the IJssel (pron. Eyssel) branches off from the Rhine, and flows into the Zuider Zee at Kampen. It is also navigated hv steam. (Rte. 12.) 1. Huissen. Near Tollhuis the ar¬ my of Louis XIY. crossed the Rhine, 1672, an exploit much vaunted by the French poets (Boileau, See.) and histo¬ rians of the time, though little risk was incurred hut that of drowning, as there were very few, if any, Dutch troops immediately on the spot to oppose the passage. The river was then much reduced by the drought of summer, though not entirely fordable, and many regiments had to swim across. The Great Conde was here wounded in the wrist, and his nephew was killed by his side. rt. Pannerden. Here the Waal first branches out from the main trunk of the Rhine, which above this spot flows in one undivided stream. By the management of the Waterstaal, only one-third of the waters of the Rhine pass through the channel of the Pauner- den, here strongly dyked, while two- thirds are conducted into the Waal. The voyage to Cologne is described in Rte. 34. ROUTE 12. ROTTERDAM TO ANTWERP, BY MOERDIJK AND BREDA, RAILWAY (BOIS-LE-DUC —TILBURG), OR BY WATER, PASSING BERGEN-OP-ZOOM. 59j Eng. m. Railway opened 1854 and 1855 between Moerdijk and Ant¬ werp. 4 trains daily from Moerdijk (22f m.), the terminus of the railway —to Antwerp, 37f m., in If hrs. Steamers three times a day in con¬ nexion with trains between Rotterdam and Moerdijk in 24 hrs. These steamers start from the wharf immediately oppo¬ site the Stat. of the Dutch-Rhenish Rly., Holland. ROUTE 12. —MOERDIJK. BREDA. 87 and correspond with the trains to and from Amsterdam and Germany. In travelling by road 3 ferries require to he crossed,—at Rotterdam, over the Maas; at Dort, over the Merwe; and at Moerdijk, over the HoUands-Diep. The ferry-boats are steamers, and are very well managed. 11 j Dort. In Route 11. On leaving Dort the steamer turns out of the broad Maas into a narrow channel, the Dordsclie Ifil , at the outlet of which, into the Hollands-Diep, another broad arm of the Maas, stand a few scat¬ tered houses called AVillemsdorp, oppo¬ site to which lies 23 Moerdijk , present terminus of the Rly. A steam-ferry plies across the Maas in 20 min. from Dort. 26 Zevenbergen Stat. Oudenbosch Stat. 36f Roosendaal Junct. Stat. rt. AY. 12 m. lies Bergen op Zoom. [Hence a Branch Rly. diverges by Etten Stat. to 15 Breda Stat. Inns: Kroon, com¬ fortable ; Zwaan. Breda is a fortress on the rivers Merk and Aa, whose waters, together with the surrounding marshes, render it al¬ most inaccessible to an enemy, but very unhealthy. 15,500 Inhab. The principal Protestant Church has a lofty and graceful octagon tower, in¬ jured by being surmounted by a Dutch bulbous spire. AYithin it are some interesting monuments : that of Count Encjelbrecht II. of Nassau , favourite ge¬ neral of the Emp. Maximilian (d. 1505), and his wife, resembles in plan the mo¬ nument in AYestminster Abbey of Sir Francis A r ere. The effigies, of Italian alabaster, repose upon elaborately carved mats; while 4 statues of Julius Caesar, Regulus, Hannibal, and Philip of Ala- cedon, in a half-kneeling posture, sup¬ port on their shoulders a table of stone, on which lies the armour of the prince carved in marble. It has been attributed to At. Angelo ; but the awkward pose of some of the figures, the feeble¬ ness of the anatomical details, the mean¬ ness and angularity of the drapery, and the minute finish of some of the acces¬ sories, prove that Al. Angelo could have had no hand in the execution. Obs. among other interesting monuments’ some memorials of the days of Spanish rule, with their ornaments, elegant, and in plataresco style : one of Count Henry of Nassau, with kneeling figures ; another, bearing the date 1536, to the memory of the Sieur de Borgni- val, chief engineer to Charles Y. Behind the high altar is an altar tomb of the Knight of Rcnesso and his lady. At the end of the N. aisle is a fine monu¬ ment to some of the Asehendaal family, with a vigorous and excellent relief of the Last Judgment. Alany of these monuments have been injured by vio¬ lence. In the choir is a highly orna¬ mented brass, commemorating AVilliam of Gaellen, a Dean of the chapter ; and curious and well-executed carvings in wood, representing monks in ludicrous attitudes, intended to satirise the vices of the clergy. There is also a very fine brass font, the cover of which is raised by a crane. The old castle was built, 1350, by Count Henry of Nassau; the modern Chateau by AVilliam, afterwards the Third of England. It is a square sur¬ rounded by the waters of the Alerk. Here is a military academy for infantry, cavalry, artillery, and engineers, capable of accommodating 192 cadets. It is exclusively from this academy that the Dutch army is now officered. Here are good stables and an ample stud, a swimming school, and an extensive plateau, with cannon of every calibre, which supplies the means of drill ap¬ plicable to each branch of the service. It contains also a good library, a well- stocked model-room, and a small mu¬ seum of arms. Breda was taken from the Spaniards, in 1590, by means of a singular stratagem concerted between a brave veteran cap¬ tain of Prince Maurice’s army, named Heraugiere, and one Adrian Yanden- berg, owner of a barge which supplied the garrison with turf for fuel. On Thursday, Feb. 26, Heraugiere, and 80 picked soldiers, entered the barge, and were carefully covered over with a cargo of turf. Though the boat had not many miles to go from the place where it was laden, it was so much im¬ peded by contrary winds, and by the 88 ROUTE 12. —ROTTERDAM TO ANTWERP. BOIS-LE-DUC. Sect. I. frost wliich had covered the water with a thick coat of ice, that the third day passed before it arrived within ~ league of the town. To add to the perils of the crew the vessel sprung a leak; the soldiers stood up to their knees in water; and one of them, named Matthias Kelt, began to cough so violently that for fear ho should cause their detection he en¬ treated his companions to run him through with his sword. Luckily they were not rigorously examined by the guard, and the sacrifice of the brave soldier was not required. It was not till midnight on the 3rd of March (5 days after they had embarked) that the sluice-gates of the citadel were opened, and the boat was dragged in through the ice by the very garrison who were so soon to suffer from its entrance. They carried off so much of the turf for their use, that the boards which covered the concealed band were nearly laid bare; but, by another piece of good fortune, they did not inspect the cargo very minutely; and Yandenberg, with con¬ siderable cleverness, contrived by his wit and jokes to turn away their atten¬ tion, and, lulling all suspicion, finished by making them drunk. As soon as they were asleep, Captain Ileraugiere and his soldiers issued forth from their miserable retreat; the sentinels were killed, and the rest of the garrison, terrified at the sudden and unexpected attack, abandoned the castle without even the precaution of breaking down the drawbridge leading from it into the town, which was entered a few days afterwards by Prince Maurice and his army. After several fruitless attempts on the part of the Spaniards to regain Breda, it was taken in 1625 by Spinola, who burnt the famous barge which, like the Trojan horse, had contributed to its capture by the Dutch in 1590. The surrender of Breda to Spinola has been commemorated by Velazquez in his finest picture, “ Las Lanzas,” now in the Madrid gallery. (Spanish Handbook.) Charles II. resided at Breda during part of the time of his exile from Eng¬ land. Railway from Breda to Boxtel, thence by diligence to Bois-le-duc (den Bosch or Ilertogenbosch), a fortress and chief town of N. Brabant, with 23,500 Inhab. (Inn, Goude Leeuw.) The Ch. of St. John (1312) is one of the finest eccle¬ siastical edifices in Holland. It is well preserved, and has double aisles and apsidal chapels (date 1260-1312), an earlier chapel at the NAY. end, a Lady- chapel N. of the choir, and a very rich marble choir-screen. The Stad- huis, surmounted by a tower with a fine set of chimes, contains paintings and armour. At Breda the traveller can take the train and proceed, as he pleases, east¬ ward to Bergen-op-Zoom (p. 89) west¬ wards to Tilburg and Boxtel (Rte. 13), both busy manufacturing little towns, or go on direct to Antwerp.] The Belgian frontier is crossed before reaching Esschen Stat. Campthout Stat. 52j Capellcn Stat. Eekeren Stat. Custom-house search. A desolate tract of heath forms the border-land of the 2 countries. [At Hooglistraetcn, 10 m. E. of Campthout, so called from the Roman highway which passed through it, the very large and handsome Ch. of St. Anthony and Eliz. contains monuments to the noble family of La Laing, one of whom built the steeple, 364 ft. high, of brick and stone, richly ornamented, 1546. It has 12 painted windows, old tapestry, a brass font, &c. The chateau of the La Laings is now the Poor-house .] 59£ Antwerp Stat. In Rte. 22. 2. ROTTERDAM TO ANTWERP BY WATER. Steamers daily in summer by Dort, Fort Batz, and the Scheldt. The dis¬ tance is about 80 miles. The time taken is 7 hrs.; the return passage is longer, as the tide does not serve to pass the banks, which it does in go¬ ing, and therefore a circuit must be made to avoid them. The voyage is pleasant in fine weather; but the broad estuaries dividing the islands which form the province of Zealand are nearly as much agitated as the open sea Holland, route 12. —Rotterdam by storms. Since the Ely. was opened, the train is generally preferred to steamboats. After quitting Dort (Rte. 11) the vessel threads a narrow channel, having the appearance of an artificial canal, called Dordsche Kill, leading into the wide estuary of the IIollands-Diep, and Yolke Rak, arms of the Maas, flowing between the islands of Zealand. The places passed on the voyage from Dort are S’ Gravendeel, Willemsdorp, the fortress of Willemstad, forts Ruiter, and Ooltgensplaats, 2 block - houses covered with red-tiled roofs, erected by the French to defend the entrance of the IIollancls-Diep against the English, Philipsland, and Stavenis. On the l. lies Tholen, and on the rt. the island of Schowen, with its port, Ziericksee, memorable for the daring exploit of the Spaniards, under Requesens, 1575, who forded the channel called Iveeten, by a passage 6 m. long, and before untried, wading for the most part up to their necks in water, and in the face of a fleet of boats manned by the Zea¬ landers, who annoyed the Spaniards by a deadly fire, and actually cut off their rear-guard. They thus gained posses¬ sion of the island, and soon after of Ziericksee. At Zijp an omnibus is sta¬ tioned to convey passengers to or from Ziericksee [Inn, Hof van Holland), less than an hour’s drive; its square tower is conspicuous from the steamer. Passengers bound for Flushing, Mid- delburg, and Goes (Rte. 18), are set down at Jerensdam. Emerging from the narrow channel of Tholen, the steamer calls at the jetty 3 m. distant from the town and fortress of Bergen-op-Zoom ( Inn , Hof van Hol¬ land), one of the strongest and dullest places in Holland, considered the master¬ piece in the art of fortification of Coehorn; 8500 Inhab.; situated in a marshy country which can easily be laid under water. Among the numerous sieges and attacks which it has endured, the most interesting to the English is the attempt by Gen. Graham to carry the place by storm, on the night of the 8th of March, 1814, which was nearly successful. Two of the 4 attacking columns suc- TO ANTWERP BY WATER. 89 cceded in establishing themselves on the ramparts, with very trifling loss. No. 1, the 1. column, attacked be¬ tween the Antwerp and Waterport gates; No. 2 attacked the rt. of the New Gate; No. 7 Avas destined only to clraAv attention by a false attack near the Steinbergen gate; No. 4, the rt. column, attacked at the entrance of the harbour, which could be forded at low Avater. They Avere ultimately repulsed, by a bold attack of the garrison, with very severe loss.—The names of the British officers who fell on this occasion may be seen in the church recorded on a monumental tablet erected by their brother officers. In the great Protest¬ ant Ch ., the remnant of a fine building, which has suffered much, is the tomb of Lord Edward Bruce, killed in a duel, 1613, Avith Sir EdAV. Sackville (after- Avards E. of Dorset), to fight which they came over from England. ( Guardian , Nos. 129, 133.) A line of posts and branches of trees point out to the pilot the very narrow channel called de Kreek Bak, close to the edge of the extensive sandbank called Verdronken, or DroAvned Land, because OA r erwhelmecl by an inroad of the sea, and thus cut off from the island of Zuid Beveland. We enter the river Schelde abreast of Fort Batz. The de¬ scription of the voyage up the Schelde to Antwerp Avill be found in Rte. 18. Bergen - op - Zoom is a bad place to land at in wet Aveather; a long jetty and dyke has to be traversed before reaching the toAvn. If the traveller should not find the steamer at Moerdijk, he may cross to Willemsdorp by the steam-ferry, and proceed thence to Dort, Avhere steamers going to Rotterdam are easily found. Ascent of the Schelde to .Antwerp, Rte. 18. 9a ROUTE 13. BOXTEL TO MAESTRICHT. ROUTE 13. BOXTEL (RTE. 12) TO EINDHOVEN, VENLO, ROERMOND, AND MAESTRICHT. Boxtel (rly. in progress). Diligence in two hours to Eindhoven , a busy little manufac¬ turing town (Pop. 3300). It lies on the confluence of the Gender and the Dommel, and possesses many manufac¬ tories worked by steam or water-power. Pleasantly situated, it is surrounded by well-cultivated fields, gardens, and pictty villas. Rly. (in progress) to Venlo, a small fortified town on the it. bank of the Maese, celebrated in history for the many sieges it has withstood (Pop. 7700). r Steamers to JNymwcgen and Rotterdam (Rte. 11), and Roermond {Inn : De Goudcn Leeu- wen) an ancient and once populous city Sect. I. (Pop. 8500). At the period of the 80 years’ war, this city was frequently taken and retaken by the contending armies. The Minster is one of the finest and most remarkable ecclesiastical buildings in the Netherlands. It con¬ tains many ancient monuments and tombs—among the latter those of Gerard III., Count of Gucldres, and of Mar- garetha, his wife. The Roman Catholics, who are numerous in Roermond, propose restoring this dilapidated church to its original architectural beauty. The parochial ch., dedicated to St. Chris¬ topher, is a large and handsome build¬ ing, with 3 large and 14 small towers, a fine organ, carved oaken pulpit, and confessionals. It contains several fine paintings, the principal of which are the Ascension of Christ, by Willebroodt ; the Descent of the Holy* Ghost, by De Witt; the Four Evangelists, with St. Peter and St. Paul, by Van Helmont; a Christ, by Rubens ; and a Holy Family, by Linssen. Steamers by Venlo to Nymwegen (Rte. 12) and Rotterdam. Rly. to Maestriciit Stat. (See Rte. 24). ( 91 ) SECTION II. BELGIUM. Introductory Information. 18. Passports. — 19. Money. — 20. Posting. — 21. Diligences; Hired Carriages: Barriers; Roads. — 22. Railroads ; Vigilantes. — 23. Inns.- —24. General View of Belgium. —25. Belgian Cities and Architecture. — 26. Chimes ( Carillons) and Clocks. —27. Works of Art i Schools of Van Eyck and Rubens .—28. Tour of the Meuse; the Ardennes. Routes. ROUTE PAGE 15. Dover to Calais and Brussels, by Lille, Douai, and Valen¬ ciennes , by Courtrai, or by Tournay — Railway . . 103 16. Calais to Courtrai, by Dunkirk and Ypres — Rail . . . 113 17. Calais to Bruges, by Furnes and Licbtervelde . . . 116 18. London to Antwerp, by the Schelde ....... 117 19. Ghent to Brussels, by Alost— Rail.121 20. Voyage from London or Dover to Ostend .122 21. Ostend to Bruges , Ghent, Termonde, and Mechlin— Rail .123 21a. Bruges to Com'trai— Rail . 139 22. Ghent to Antwerp — Rail . . 140 22a, Antwerp to Turnhout and the Belgian Pauper Colonies, and round to Louvain . . 154 23. Antwerp to Brussels, by Mech¬ lin — Railway . . . . 155 24. Brussels to Liege , by Waterloo and Namur. — Descent of the Meuse, Namur to Maestricht .165 25. Liege to Aix-la-Chapelle, by Venders, Railway. —Visit to Spa .183 ROUTE PAGE 26. Mechlin or Brussels to Liege, by Louvain —Railway . 187 27. Brussels to Aix-la-Chapelle, by Louvain, Landen, Ilas- selt, and Maestricht —Rail* way.191 28. Calais to Cologne, by Lille, Douai, Valenciennes, Quie- vrain, Manage, Charleroi, Namur—R ail . . . . 193 28a. Sambre and Meuse Rail¬ way—C harleroi to Virieux and Morialme . . . . 194 29. Brussels to Luxemburg and Treves, by Ottignies, Na¬ mur, and Arlon —Great Luxemburg Railway . . 195 30. Namur to Dinant and Givet, by the Meuse —Rail . . 198 31. The Ardennes. — Dinant to Hans sur Lessc, St. Hubert, and Bouillon .200 32. Brussels to Paris, by Hal, Mons , Maubeuge, Haut- mont, St. Quentin—R ail . 202 32a. Mons to Valenciennes. . . 204 33. Brussels to Paris, by Otti¬ gnies, Charleroi, Erquelin- nes, St. Quentin, and Creil —Rail.205 92 19. MONEY.— 20. POSTING. Sect. II. 18. Passports. English, travellers should take a Foreign Office passport (see Introduction), but no visa is required. Passports are now seldom required by the police in Belgium, yet it is not advisable to travel without one. 19. Money, French money is current throughout Belgium; indeed the currency of Bel¬ gium has the same coins and divisions as the French, except that the Belgian coinage includes a piece of 2| frs. The smaller Dutch coins are also met with, and travellers should beware of confounding cents with centimes. At Brussels, even in good shops, cents are charged. A cent, being ^ of a guilder, is equal to 2 centimes. BELGIAN AND FRENCH MONEY. 1 franc = 100 centimes = 20 sous = 9 ^d. English. Silver coins :— s. d. ~ franc = 25 centimes . . , . = 0 2|J English. ^ ditto =50 ditto . . . . = 0 4~ 5 ditto =.= 40 Gold coins:— Louis d’or = 24 fr.=19 0 Leopold d’or, Napoleon, or 20 -franc) ^ r ^ piece.J J FOREIGN COINS REDUCED TO FRENCH CURRENCY. English Sovereign.. Crown.— f r - 25 6 c. 50) 25 An English sove- Shilling .= 1 25 reign is at least Prussian Dollar.— 3 75 worth 25 frs., > or 6 thalers 20 Frederick d’or. . . . = 21 00 Bavarian Florin = 20 pence English = 2 15 s. gr. in Prus- Ivron Thaler . . . . = 5 81 sia. Austrian Florin = 2 shillings English= 2 57 J The Bank of Belgium issues notes of the value of 1000, 500, 100, 50, and 20 francs. All gold coin, both Belgian and foreign, has been withdrawn from cir¬ culation. 20. Posting. Posting is now nearly obsolete in Belgium, except on cross roads where no railways exist. Two Belgian or French leagues make a post (equal to nearly 5 miles English, or about 1 German mile). The precise length of the lieue do posto is 3898 metres = 4263 yds. English = 2 English m. 743 yds. 1600 metres = 1 Belgium. 21. modes of travelling.—22. railroads. 93 English, mile. In many places the roads are measured in kilometres. A kilo¬ metre = 1093 yds., or 4 furlongs and 213 yds., or 5 furlongs less 7 yds.; in round numbers | of an English mile. Posting in Belgium is arranged nearly upon the old French footing. The charge for each horse per post is 1 fr. 50 centimes, or 30 sous. The charge — postilion — 75 centimes, or 15 sous. It is tLsual to give at least 11 franc per post to the postilion, indeed, it is custom¬ ary with English travellers to allow him 2 francs, or 40 sous, per post. He may, however, he restricted to the sum fixed by the tariff, when he has conducted himself improperly. (Posting in France is now regulated by kilometres : the charges per kilometre are, for 2 horses at 4 sous each, 8 sous for a horse, for a third person, 3 sous. Postilion 16 sous.) 21. Travelling by Diligences, or hired Carriages.—Barriers.—Hoads. Diligences are conducted nearly on the same footing as in Holland (§ 4); they belong to private individuals or companies. They are frequently ill-managed and uncomfortable. Hired Carriages .—Persons not travelling in their own carriages, and unwilling to resort to the diligence, may have a voiture with 2 horses at the rate of about 25 francs a-day, and 5 francs to the driver; but they must, at the same time, pay 25 francs per diem back fare, making 50 francs per diem for carriage and horses. Barrieres .—There is usually a toll-gate every league in Belgium. The tolls are fixed at 10 centimes for a 4-wheeled carriage, and 20 centimes for each horse, including the return. The barrier is marked by a lamp-post at the road-side. It is customary to pay the tolls to the postboy instead of stopping at each, by which much time is saved. Roads .—Most of the Belgian roads are paved, which renders travelling over them very fatiguing, especially for ladies. The effect produced by them on carriage wheels is most destructive : a single day’s journey over these chaussees will sometimes cause them to split and staid, unless they are made very stout. The postilion should be desired to drive on the unpaved ground at the side as much as possible (cdlez sur le cliemin de terre ). After rain, however, when the side of the road is a mass of mud, and in frosty weather, when the deep ruts are as hard as stone, it would be difficult for him to comply. Private carriages are now taken on the railroad. 22. Railroads.—Vigilantes. Belgium, owing to the level surface of the country, is peculiarly well suited for railroads, which can be constructed at much less cost, here than in England, and have in consequence extended their ramifications through all parts of the king¬ dom. Mechlin is the point at which the 2 main lines intersect— one travers¬ ing Belgium from E. to W., the other from N. to S. Most of them have been constructed at the expense of the government of Belgium, but with much economy. 94 22. RAILROADS.—VIGILANTES. Sect. II. The rate of travelling is only 12 or 15 m. an hour ; hut the fares, even in the first-class carriages, arc less than in England, not exceeding 1 d. a mile; indeed, travelling in Belgium has been rendered exceedingly cheap by the railways for those who have no carriages and very little baggage. Baggage .—Only 50 lbs. are allowed free to each passenger; all above that weight is weighed and charged for separately, except such small packages as may go under the passenger’s seat. If the traveller wants to stop at several towns in succession, it saves much time and expense of porterage to send on the baggage to the farthest point to await his arrival. The delay caused by weighing the baggage at every station, which is considerable, owing to there being only one weighing machine, is also avoided. A receipt is given for the baggage, referring to a number affixed to each article, on producing which at the point of destina¬ tion, the whole is safely delivered to the owner. A small charge of 10 centimes is made for booking the baggage. Baggage sent on to Cologne will not be detained at the frontier of Prussia, but will await the arrival of the owner at Cologne before being searched. The charges for conveying carriages are also high, especially for short distances. For a 4-wheeled carriage from Ostend to Liege 129 francs; from Antwerp to Liege 71 francs. It would save expense to send on a carriage under charge of a servant at once from Ostend to Liege, and vice versa. There are 3 Classes of Railway Carriages: 1. Diligences , or 1st class, roomy, and provided with stuffed cushions and glass windows. 2. Chars-a-banc , very superior to the 2nd class in England : they afford ample accommodation, and contain 30 people, have cushioned benches and glass windows. 3. Waggons .— Better than 3rd class in England : have wooden benches. The management of the railroads is well conducted. Travellers will act wisely in looking carefully to sec that the change they receive in paying for their tickets is correct. As the stations are placed in the suburbs of the different towns, a good deal of time must usually be allowed for going to and from the station. The Omnibuses which traverse the streets of the towns to collect passengers set out so long before the time of the starting of the train, tarry so long in the streets, and arrive often so much before the time of starting, that they increase rather than remove the evil. At the same time it must be said that it is necessary to reach the station about a quarter of an hour before the train starts, at least at the stations where there are many passengers, owing to the delay arising from weighing the luggage. The fare is 4 a franc, or 1 franc with luggage. Most of the Station-houses at the minor stations are small and inconvenient, and without any accommodations. At Brussels, Ghent, and Bruges, however, large and handsome stations have been built. There is frequently no separa¬ tion in the waiting-rooms between the passengers of different classes; and the traveller, locked in until the moment when his train arrives, must often cndiu’e the society of Belgian boors, redolent of garlic and tobacco. The moment of departure and arrival is marked by hurry, crushing, and confusion. Sometimes, too, a first-class passenger who has paid for his ticket is thrust into a second-class carriage, because there is no room for him elsewhere. Whenever the train arrives at a branch rail a portion of the passengers arc transferred to other carriages. Travellers, therefore, should be attentive to the notice given by the conducieur at Bruges, Ghent, Malines, and Mouscron. At Mechlin , where four lines converge, the confusion and delay from the crossing of trains, the changing of carriages, and shifting of baggage, is very great. Tra¬ vellers must take care, first that they are not run over, and next that they arc not carried off by the wrong train in a direction opposite to that in which they intended to go. In all the Belgian towns, and at the Railway stations, a species of Cab , called Vigilantes , may be hired, which for 1 franc, or, before 7 o’clock in the morning, Belgium. 23. INNS.- 24. GENERAL VIEW OF BELGIUM. 95 for li fr., will convey the traveller and his baggage to any part of the town, and release him from the pestilent myrmidons and commissionaires of the inns. The tariff of charges is throughout Belgium, 5 centimes, or 1 franc the course; or by time, 1\ franc the first hour, 1 franc all after. Two or more persons had better take a vigilante rather than the omnibus—money as well as time is saved. 23. Belgian Inns. The average charges are—in the first-class hotels —for a bed, 2 to 3 francs. Dinner, table-d’hdtc, 3 to 4^ francs, without wine. Dinner a-part, 5 to 6 francs. Supper, tablc-d’hote, 1 franc 50 cent, to 2 francs. A bottle of Bordeaux (ordinaire) wine, 3 francs. Breakfast, with eggs and meat, 2 francs; tea or coffee and bread and butter, 1 franc to franc ; servants, 50 centimes to 1 franc per diem. Prices have risen in Belgium since 1850. 24. General View of Belgium. In many respects the preliminary description of Holland (§ 8) will apply to Belgium; the long connection between the two people having produced simi¬ larity in the habits of both, though, it must be confessed, there arc great distinc¬ tions in character. The northern and eastern provinces of Belgium, in their flatness, their fertility, and the number of their canals (§ 10) and dykes (§ 9), can be geographically regarded only as a continuation of Holland. This portion of Belgium teems with population, so that in traversing it it has the appearance of one vast continuous village. The southern provinces, on the contrary, including the Ardennes, consist, in a great degree, of a rugged district of hills covered with heath, or dense forests, which still harbour the wolf and the boar, intersected by rapid streams, and abounding in really picturesque scenery, the effect of which is increased by the frequent occurrence of old feudal castles. It is but a thinly peopled district; and its inhabitants, called Walloons, arc a rough and hardy race. The northern provinces are further distinguished from the southern by their language. A line drawn nearly due E. from Gravelines to the Lys, and down that river to Menin, and from Menin again nearly due E., passing a little to the S. of Brussels and Louvain to the Meuse, between Maestricht and Liege, marks the boundary of the French and Flemish languages. The people living on the N. of this line speak Flemish, those on the S. French. Another, though some¬ what more undulating line, drawn from Menin, passing between Valenciennes and Mons, to the frontier near Chimay, would mark the boundary of the two French dialects spoken in Belgium; the people on the W. of this line speaking the Picard dialect, those on the E. of it the Walloon. The population of Belgium exceeds 5,600,000 ; of which about ^ speak French (the Picard and Walloon dialects), the other \ Flemish. In the provinces, sepa¬ rately, there is generally a vast excess of either race or language. In respect to race Brabant docs not probably differ much from the other provinces, but in respect to language it is an exception to the rule, about \ of its inliab. speaking French and § either Flemish or some other dialect of the Dutch language. The French Belgians arc, in general, more civilised than their neighbours. Having the immense advantage of the use of a great literary language spoken by all travellers and foreigners, they keep nearly all the shops and hotels, and conse¬ quently have a larger intercourse with the world. In Belgium every acre maintains 3 men; wealth, as in France, is pretty equally distributed. The class of employers, with their families, counts nearly a third of the whole inhabitants. 96 25. BELGIAN CITIES. Sect. II. The late kingdom of the Netherlands was "built up of the fragments of other states, and ‘ ‘ kept together rather by the pressure of surrounding Europe than by any internal principles of cohesion.” The Belgians differ from the Dutch in two essential points, which are quite sufficient to make them incapable of any per¬ manent union: they are French in inclination and Roman Catholics in religion. Their history exhibits none of those striking traits of heroic patriotism which have distinguished the Dutch annals; there is nothing marked in their cha¬ racters ; and though free from that dull plodding patience and cold calculation of gain which belong to their phlegmatic neighbours, they are equally devoid of the high-minded courage and ceaseless perseverance which have distinguished them. Though lovers of liberty, the Belgians have been dependent on a succession of foreign masters, Burgundian, Spanish, Austrian, or French. The mania of the Crusades having possessed with especial fervour the nobles of Flanders, they were incited to make every species of sacrifice in furtherance of their favourite pm-pose. Lands, political powers, and privileges were parted with, on the spin 1 of the moment, to furnish means for their expedition. Their wealthy vassals, the burghers of Bruges, Ghent, and other great towns, were thus enabled, by their riches, to purchase their independence. They forthwith formed themselves into communes or corporations, and began to exercise the right of deliberating on then- own affairs; elected bailiffs (echevins); obtained a jurisdiction of their own, and with it a great seal; and evinced their sense of these advantages by building a huge belfry, or a vast town-hall, as atrophy or temple of their liberties. But though the Flemish burghers gained their freedom from their feudal lords much sooner than most other nations, they threw away the boon by their petty jealousies and quarrels among one another. To use the words of the most dis¬ tinguished living British historian, “ Liberty never wore a more unamiable coun¬ tenance than among these burghers, who abused the strength she gave them by cruelty and insolence.”— Hallam. They have suffered from their faults; their government has been subject to perpetual changes, and their country has been the scene of war for centuries : a mere arena for combat—the Cockpit of Europe. The natural consequence of so many revolutions has been a certain debasement of the national character, evinced in the lower orders by ignorance, and a coarse¬ ness of manners which will be particularly apparent to every traveller. He that would travel with the full pleasure of historical associations should be well read in Froissart ere he visits Belgium ; and when he repairs to Ghent, let him not fail to carry Henry Taylor’s 1 Philip van Artcvelde ’ in his hand. Motley’s Histories of ‘ The Pise of the Dutch Republic,’ and of ‘ The United Netherlands,’ 1861, apply as much to Belgium as to Holland. Delepierre’s 1 History of Flemish Literature,’ London, 1860, is the latest and best authority on that subject. John Arrowsmith’s or Keith Johnston’s maps of Belgium are good and clear. 25. Belgian Cities, and their Architecture. Belgium contains a multitude of interesting examples of architectural skill in the middle ages, eminently worthy of careful study, and sufficient, from the diversity of the epochs they mark and the character they bear, to illustrate fully a history of the rise and progress of Gothic architecture, and the re-birth of Italian art. “ It is in the streets of Antwerp and Brussels that the eye still rests upon the forms of architecture which appear in the pictures of the Flemish school—those fronts, richly decorated with various ornaments, and terminating in roofs, the slope of which is concealed from the eye by windows and gables still more highly ornamented; the whole comprising a general effect, which, from its grandeur and intricacy, at once amuses and delights the spectator. In fact this rich intermix- Belgium. 25. Belgian cities, and tiieir architecture. 97 ture of towers and battlements, and projecting windows highly sculptured, joined to the height of the houses, and the variety of ornament upon their fronts, pro¬ duces an effect as superior to those of the tame uniformity of a modern street as the casque of the warrior exhibits over the slouched broad-brimmed beaver of a Quaker.”— Sir Walter Scott. In England, Gothic architecture is almost confined to churches; in the Nether¬ lands it is shown to be equally suited to civil edifices, and even for dwelling- houses. The Town Halls (Hotels do Yille, Halles, &c.) at Yprcs, Bruges, Ghent, Oudenarde, Brussels, and Louvain, are especially worthy of attention: they are most perfect examples of the Gothic style; and it may truly be asserted that nowhere else in the whole of Europe arc any civic edifices found to approach in grandeur and elegance those of Belgium. Amongst the privileges granted to the towns when they first acquired communal rights none seem to have been deemed greater, or were more speedily acted upon, than the right of huilding a helfry to call together the citizens, and a hall as a general meeting-place. “ The domestic architecture of Belgium offers an infinite variety, and numerous hints for present application. Within a very small circle, in some cases even in a single city, examples may be found of the different styles of building which have prevailed at intervals, say of 50 years, from the 11th or 12th cent, to the present time. At Tournay, a most interesting old town, there are several exceedingly ancient houses ; Ghent and Malines display similar ancient houses. The opulent burghers of these cities, once the most flourishing in Europe from their commerce and manufactures, were little inferior to princes in power and riches ; and the municipal structures which they founded may compete with the ecclesiastical in point of taste, elegance, and magnificence; they arc in fact civic palaces, destined either for the residence of the chief magistrate, for the meeting of guilds and corporations of merchants and trades, or for assemblies of the mu¬ nicipal government, and sometimes of courts of justice. Belgium also possesses noble Gothic cathedrals at Mechlin, Brussels, Louvain, Liege, Tournay (the finest Itomanesque edifice in Belgium), and, above all, at Antwerp. Of early churches the most remarkable are, St. Vincent at Soignies, 10th centy. ; St. Gertrude atNivelle ; St. Bartholomew, Liege ; St. Gervais, Maestricht, all of the 11th centy. Of Early Pointed churches may bo mentioned St. Martin’s at Ypres, St. Leo¬ nard’s at Leau, and St. Paul’s at Liege. Middle Pointed examples exist in the churches of Aerschot, of St. Martin at Hal, Mechlin, and Louvain. The finest 3rd Pointed churches are St. Bavon at Ghent, St. Martin at Alost, St. James at Antwerp and Liege, St. Gommaire at Lierre, the chiuches of Hoog- straeten and St. Hubert, St. W altrude’s at Mons. The churches are usually open till noon; but as the side chapels, the choir, and the finest pictures are locked up, it is necessary, even at the open hour, to resort to the Suisse, or sexton, to see them. The most remarkable Feudal Edifices and Bums are the castles of Bouillon, Mircourt, Yianden, Antoing, and Grimbergh; and the Abbeys of Villars, of Orval, and Echternach. The characteristics of the cities of Belgium are given in the following verses iu monkish Latin:—- u Nobilibus* Bruxella viris, Antverpiaf nummis, Gandavumi laqueis, formosis Burga§ puellis, Lovanium|| doctis, gaudet MeckliniaH stultis.” * Brussels was the seat of the Court, and therefore the residence of the nobility. -j- Antwerp was, perhaps, at one time the wealthiest city in Europe. J The magistrates of Ghent were compelled to wear a halter round their necks by Charles V. $ Bruges still retains its reputation for pretty girls. || The University of Louvain, in former days, rendered it the resort of the learned. The joke about the wise men of Mechlin is explained in the description of that town. Tn. G.l F 98 2G. CHIMES.— 27. WORKS OF ART. Sect. II. 26. Chimes (Carillons) and Clocks. Chimes, or carillons, were invented in the Low Countries ; they have certainly been brought to the greatest perfection here, and are still heard in every town. They are of two kinds ; the one attached to a cylinder like the barrel of an organ, which always repeats the same tunes, and is moved by machinery; the other of a superior kind, played by a musician, with a set of keys. In all the great towns there are amateurs or a salaried professor, usually the organist of a church, who perform with great skill upon this gigantic instrument, placed high up in the church steeple. So fond arc the Dutch and Belgians of this kind of music, that in some places the chimes appear scarcely to he at rest for ten minutes, either by day or night. The tunes are usually changed every year. Chimes were in ex¬ istence at Bruges in 1300—thus the claim of the town of Alost to the invention, a.d. 1487, is disposed of. The public clocks in Belgium strike the hour half an hour beforehand : thus, at half-past 11 the clock strikes 12. 27. Works op Art in the Low Countries.*—The Schools of Van Eyck and Rubens. It is not in architecture alone that the artists of Belgium have attained an eminent degree of perfection. The art of sculpture, in stone, wood, and ivory, was carried on here in perfection from the middle ages, as is shown by triptichs and other relics preserved in sacristies of churches and museums down to Nicholas Faiclherbe (17th centy.), Duquesnoi, Quellin, &c.; hut above all this country has had the rare distinction, at two distinct periods, of producing two different Schools of Painting; the founders of which, in both instances, equalled and even surpassed their contemporaries throughout the whole of Europe in the excellence of their works. The founders of the two schools of painting were Van Eyck and Rubens. The numerous works produced by them and their scholars, still existing in Belgium, and nowhere else to he found in equal perfection, form another great attraction of a journey through this country, and will be highly appreciated by every traveller of taste. The brothers Hubert and John Yan Eyck, the founders of the early school, are believed to have flourished between 1370 and 1445. The painters were enrolled at Bruges as early as 1358 into a guild, which enjoyed the same privileges as any other corporation, and attained the highest reputation under Philip the Good, Avhose court at Bruges was resorted to by men of learning and science, as well as artists of the first eminence in Europe, in whose society he took great delight. It was in consequence of this patronage that the brothers Hubert and John Yan Eyck (the latter sometimes called John of Bruges) settled there, and have left behind them so many proofs of their skill as painters, some of which still remain at Bruges. In the clays of the Yan Eycks the cor¬ poration consisted of more than 300 painters, who were enrolled on the books, and formed the most celebrated school of art of the time. Yan Eyck, though not, as is sometimes stated, the original inventor of oil painting, may, at any rate, be justly termed the father of the art , as he introduced some improvement, either in the material or the mode of mixing and applying the colours, which produced a new effect, and was immediately brought into general use. Although oil painting had been previously practised in Italy, Giotto having mixed oil with his colours nearly 200 years before the time of Van Eyck, we find that an Italian artist, Antonello of Messina, made a journey to Flanders on purpose to learn this new method; and it is also recorded that Andrea del Castegna, to whom he imparted it, murdered a brother artist through whom the secret had been conveyed, in order to prevent the knowledge extending * See Kugler’s Handbook of Painting; German and Dutch Schools. Belgium. 27. works or art: van eyck And rubens. 99 further. The depth and brightness of Yan Eyck’s colours, which if they can he equalled, are certainly not to he surpassed in the present day, and their perfect preservation, are truly a source of wonder and admiration, and prove with what rapid strides these artists had arrived at entire perfection in one very important department of painting. The works of the brothers Yan Eyck are rare, and scarcely, for this reason perhaps, appreciated as they deserve in England. With them must be associated Hans Memling, of the same school, whose masterpieces exist at Bruges in the hospital of St. John and in the Academy: no traveller should omit to see them. If lie have any love for art, or any pretension to taste, he will not fail to admire the exquisite delicacy and feeling which they display, their brilliancy of colouring, and purity of tone. In contemplating the works of the early Flemish school, it must he borne in mind that the artists who attained to such excellence at so early a period had none of the classic works of antiquity to guide them, no great masters to imitate and study from: the path they struck out was entirely original; they had no models hut nature, and such nature as was before them. Hence it happens that their works exhibit a stiffness and formality, and a meagreness of outline, which are unpleasing to the eye, combined with a want of refinement which is often repugnant to good taste. Still these defects are more than counterbalanced by truth and force of expression, and not unfrequently by an elevation of sentiment in the representation of sacred subjects. The progress of the Flemish School may be traced, in an uninterrupted course, through the works of Quentin Matsys, Frans Floris, de Yos, the Breughels, and a number of artists little known in England, down to Otto Yennius and Rubens. School of Rubens. —The ruling spirits of the second epoch of Flemish art were Rubens and his distinguished pupil Yandyke. And here we shall again avail ourselves of the excellent observations of Sir Joshua Reynolds, being fully con¬ vinced of how great value they will prove to the young traveller. They will induce him not to rest satisfied with the name of a painter and the subject of a picture ; they will point out to him the Jbeauties, the reason why such works arc esteemed, and induce him to examine for himself, thus enabling him to form his taste, and to carry with him a perception of excellence by which he may exercise a critical judgment of painting in general. Character of Rubens. —“ The works of men of genius alone, where great faults are united with great beauties, afford proper matter for criticism. Genius is always eccentric, bold, and daring; which, at the same time that it commands attention, is sure to provoke criticism. It is the regular, cold, and timid com¬ poser who escapes unseen and deserves no praise. “The elevated situation on which Rubens stands in the esteem of the world is alone a sufficient reason for some examination of his pretensions. His fame is extended over a great part of the Continent without a rival; and it may be justly said that he has enriched his country, not in a figurative sense alone, by the great examples of art which he left, but by what some would think a more solid advantage,—the wealth arising from the concourse of strangers whom his works continually invite to Antwerp. To extend his glory still further, he gives to Paris one of its most striking features, the Luxemburg Gallery ; and if to these we add the many towns, churches, and private cabinets where a single picture of Rubens confers eminence, we cannot hesitate to place him in the first rank of illustrious painters. Though I still entertain the same general opinion both with regard to his excellences and defects, yet, having now seen his greatest compo¬ sitions, where he has more means of displaying those parts of his art in which he particularly excelled, my estimation of his genius is, of course, raised. It is only in large compositions that his powers seem to have room to expand themselves. They really increase in proportion to the size of the canvas on which they are to F 2 100 27. RUBENS AS A PAINTER. Sect. II. be displayed. Ilis superiority is not seen in easel pictures, nor even in detached parts of his greater works, which are seldom eminently beautiful. It docs not lie in an attitude, or in any peculiar expression, but in the general effect,—in the genius which pervades and illuminates the whole. “ The works of Rubens have that peculiar property always attendant on genius,—to attract attention and enforce admiration in spite of all their faults. It is owing to this fascinating power that the performances of those painters with which he is surrounded, though they have, perhaps, fewer defects, yet appear spiritless, tame, and insipid; such as the altar-pieces of Grayer, Schut, Sogers, Huysum, Tyssens, Van Balen, and the rest. They arc done by men whose hands, and indeed all their faculties, appear to have been cramped and confined ; and it is evident that everything they did was the effect of great labour and pains. The productions of Rubens, on the contrary, seem to flow with a free¬ dom and prodigality, as if they cost him nothing; and to the general animation of the composition there is always a correspondent spirit in the execution of the work. The striking brilliancy of his colours, and their lively opposition to each other ; the flowing liberty and freedom of his outline ; the animated pencil with which every object is touched,—all contribute to awaken and keep alive the attention of the spectator; awaken in him, in some measure, correspondent sensa¬ tions, and make him feel a degree of that enthusiasm with which the painter was carried away. To this we may add the complete uniformity in all the parts of the work, so that the whole seems to be conducted and grow out of one mind : everything is of a piece and fits its place. Even his taste of drawing and of form appears to correspond better with his colouring and composition than if he had adopted any other manner, though that manner, simply considered, might have been better. It is here, as in personal attractions, there is frequently found a certain agreement and correspondence in the whole together, which is often more captivating than mere regular beauty. “ Rubens appears to have had that confidence in himself which it is necessary for every artist to assume when he has finished his studies, and may venture in some measure to throw aside the fetters of authority ; to consider the rules as subject to his control, and not himself subject to the rules; to risk and to dare extraordinary attempts without a guide, abandoning himself to his own sensa¬ tions, and depending upon them. To this confidence must be imputed that originality of manner by which he may be truly said to have extended the limits of the art. After Rubens had made up his manner, lie never looked out of himself for assistance : there is, consequently, very little in his works that appears to bo taken from other masters. If he has borrowed anything, he has had the address to change and adapt it so well to the rest of his work that the thief is not discoverable. “ Besides the excellency of Rubens in these general powers, he possessed the true art of imitating. He saw the objects of nature with a painter’s eye ; he saw at once the predominant feature by which every object is known and distin¬ guished ; and as soon as seen, it was executed with a facility that is astonishing : and, let me add, this facility is to a painter, when he closely examines a picture, a source of great pleasure. How far this excellence may be perceived or felt by those who are not painters I know not: to them certainly it is not enough that objects be truly represented; they must likewise be represented with grace, which means here that the work is done with facility and without effort. Rubens was, perhaps, the greatest master in the mechanical part of the art, the best workman with his tools, that ever exercised a pencil. “This power, which Rubens possessed in the highest degree, enabled him to represent whatever he undertook better than any other painter. His animals, particularly lions and horses, arc so admirable, that it may be said they were never properly represented but by him. Ilis portraits rank with the best works of the painters who have made that branch of the art the sole business of their Belgium. 27. character of rubens. 101 lives ; and of these lie has left a great variety of specimens. The same may he said of his landscapes; and though Claude Lorraine finished more minutely as becomes a professor in any particular branch, yet there is such an airiness and facility in the landscapes of Bubens, that a painter would as soon wish to be the author of them as those of Claude, or any other artist whatever. “ The pictures of Bubens have this effect on the spectator, that he feels him¬ self in nowise disposed to pick out and dwell on his defects. The criticisms which are made on him are, indeed, often unreasonable. His style ought no more to be blamed for not having the sublimity of Michael Angelo, than Ovid should be censured because he is not like Yirgil. “ However, it must be acknowledged that ho wanted many excellences which would have perfectly united with his style. Among those we may reckon beauty in his female characters; sometimes, indeed, they make approaches to it; they are healthy and comely women, but seldom, if ever, possess any degree of ele¬ gance : the same may be said of his young men and children. His old men* have that sort of dignity which a bushy beard will confer; but he never pos¬ sessed a poetical conception of character. In his representations of the highest characters in the Christian or the fabulous world, instead of something above humanity, which might fill the idea which is conceived of such beings, the spec¬ tator finds little more than mere mortals, such as he meets with every day. “ The incorrectness of Bubens, in regard to his outline, oftener proceeds from haste and carelessness than from inability : there are in his great works, to which he seems to have paid more particular attention, naked figures as eminent for their drawing as for their colouring. He appears to have entertained a great abhorrence of the meagre, dry manner of his predecessors, the old German and Flemish painters ; to avoid which, he kept his outline larg and flowing: this carried to an extreme, produced that heaviness which is so frequently found in his figures. Another defect of this great painter is his inattention to the foldings of his drapery, especially that of his women; it is scarcely ever cast with any choice of skill. Carlo Maratti and Bubens arc, in this respect, in opposite extremes : one discovers too much art in the disposition of drapery, and the other too little. Bubens’s drapery, besides, is not properly historical; the quality of the stuff of which it is composed is too accurately distinguished, resembling the manner of Paul Veronese. This drapery is less offensive in Bubens than it would be in many other painters, as it partly contributes to that richness which is the peculiar character of his style, which we do not pretend to set forth as of the most simple and sublime kind. “ The difference of the manner of Bubens from that of any other painter before him is in nothing more distinguishable than in his colouring, which is totally different from that of Titian, Correggio, or any of the great colourists. The effect of his pictures may be not improperly compared to clusters of flowers : all his colours appear as clear and as beautiful; at the same time he has avoided that tawdry effect which one would expect such gay colours to produce ; in this respect resembling Barocci more than any other painter. What was said of an ancient painter may be applied to those two artists,—that their figures look as if they fed upon roses. t “It would be a curious and a profitable study for a painter to examine the difference, and the cause of that difference, of effect in the works of Correggio and Bubens, both excellent in different ways. The difference, probably, would be given according to the different habits of the connoisseur: those who had received their first impressions from the works of Bubens would censure Cor¬ reggio as heavy; and the admirers of Correggio would say Bubens wanted solidity of effect. There is lightness, airiness, and facility in Bubens, his advo¬ cates will urge, and comparatively a laborious heaviness in Correggio, whose admirers will complain of Bubens’s manner being careless and unfinished, whilst the works of Correggio are wrought to the highest degree of delicacy; and what 102 28 . TOUR OF THE MEUSE. THE ARDENNES. Sect. II. may be advanced in favour of Correggio’s breadth of light will, by his censurers, be called affected and pedantic. It must be observed that we are speaking solely of the manner, the effect of the picture; and we may conclude, according to the custom in pastoral poetry, by bestowing on each of these illustrious painters a garland, without attributing superiority to either. “ To conclude,—I will venture to repeat, in favour of Rubens, what I have before said in regard to the Dutch school (§ 14),—that those who cannot see the extraordinary merit of this great painter, either have a narrow conception of the variety of art, or are led away by the affectation of approving nothing but what comes from the Italian school .”—Sir Joshua Reynolds. Belgium possesses at the present day a School of Living Painters, whoso works have high claims to attention, and may be seen at the yearly exhibitions at Ghent, Antwerp, Brussels, as well as in the palaces, museums, and churches of the principal towns. The historical pictures of Mappers, do Kcyzer, Biefvc, Maes, Gallait, Brakelaer, the animals of Verboekhoven, the woody landscapes of Hellemans, are worthy of being placed by the side of the best productions of any existing school. 28. Tour of the Meuse.—The Ardennes. Belgium is not remarkable for its cities alone ; it possesses most picturesque scenery, especially in the valleys of the Meuse and its tributaries. That river, between Thionville in France and Liege, makes a wide sweeping semicircle, and receives from the country on its rt. bank its tributaries the Semois, Lesse, Ourthc, and Amblevc. Each of these rivers is remarkable for its winding course and interesting scenery, and all more or less deserve to be explored, the banks of the Meuse itself being the most interesting. The centre of this district, from which most of these rivers take their rise, is the Ardennes ; a wild country of healthy heathy highlands ; but intersected by valleys of great beauty. It deserves the notice of English travellers far moro than it has hitherto received. Without the sublimity of Switzerland, it has great beauty and picturesqueriess, and, for those who are limited for time, it presents a fine field for pedestrian or carriage excursions, within 24 hours’ reach of England. It is very accessible, cither by the river Meuse and the rly. along its banks, or by the Grand Luxemburg Rly., which intersects it. On its borders are the towns of Liege, Spa, Namur, Dinant, and Luxemburg, any one of which forms an excellent starting-point. It is intersected by good roads, the result of con¬ stant labour since 1850. Still it is the fit and proper country for the pedestrian, especially if he bo an angler, since many of the rivers afford a prospect of good sport. Their course is so winding, and bridges are so scarce, that be must be pre¬ pared to wade them from time to time; but by the occasional aid of a guide, to indicate the fine points of view, and the short cuts by which he may diverge from the high road and avoid the loops of the rivers, ho may make a very interesting tour of a week to 3 or 4 weeks, according as his leisure may allow. The characteristic features of the Ardennes is wildness ; heathy and rocky hills, with dark rapid streams winding round them ; vast forests of oak stretching over the plains and crowning the bills, peopled with deer, wild boars, and wolves; villages at long intervals, dirty and poor; cottages thinly scattered among the valleys, and castles frowning from rocky heights, embosomed in woods. Tlie Inns, small, simple, homely, for the most part, are mere village cabarets; yet they are generally clean, and the traveller may live well on the fine mutton reared on the heathery hills, on wild boar and tame pig fed on acorns of the forest. Venison, roe, hare, and other game are common fare. The rivers afford small trout and grayling, on which the angler may exercise his skill, and craw¬ fish. Nowhere is richer milk or more delicious honey. 103 Belgium. route 15 .— dover to Calais and Brussels. Th e Plan of a Tour , which wo would suggest, might commence with the course ot the Meuse from Liege to Namur, and from Namur to Dinant. Ascent of the Lessc to Rochefort—the Trou de Han—Abbey of St. Hubert—Ely. to Arlon— A’alley of the Semois to Bouillon and Mezieres—Rly. to Luxemburg—Ely. to Diekirch, Vianden, Echternach. From Diekirch either across the hills to Stavelot and Spa, or return to Luxemburg, and by rly. to Aye, and down the Ourthe to Liege. A. Valley of the Semois. Arlon. Ete. 29. Airton. Ete. 31. Abbey of Orval—ruins. Etc. 31. | m. Florenvillc (II. do Commerce). Con (pics (ruined Abbey). Ilerbeumont (Cheval Blanc). Bouillon. Rte. 31. Alle ( Inn : Chez Hoffman). Bohun, dirty village. Tliilay Suspension Bridge. Montherme, at junction of Semois with Meuse—Slate Quarries— Abbey of Val Lieu. Mezieres, in France-—Ely. stat. B. Valley of the Lesse . Dinant. Walzin Castle—ford Lesse to Chalais. Ardenno —through, the Eoyal grounds. Ford Lesse. Houget (? Inn). Yillars-sur-Lessc {Inn poor), Epraves junction of L’Homme and Lesse. Rochefort. Ete. 29. Han-sur-Lesse—Cave. Etes. 29- 31. Minvart Castle. St. Hubert Abbey. Ete. 29. Poix Stat. C. Valleys of the Ambleve and Ourthe. Spa. Etc. 25. Stavelot (Couronne). Trois Fonts (Chez Renard) junc¬ tion of Salm with Ambleve. Cascade of Coo. Chesneux. . Quarreaux or Correaux (Yalley strewn with rocks). Rcmouchamps (H. des Etrangers). Cave. Ete. 25. Path by the Ambleve, or boat. Aywelle. (Post.) Comblain auPont (Chez Ninane), Suspension Bridge. Douflammc. Junction of Ambleve and Ourthe. Esneux. (Diligence to Liege.) Tilf. (H. d’Amiraute.) Liege. Rte. 25. D. From Spa , by Stavelot and Alt-Salm, to Houffalize. {Inn: H. des Arden¬ nes.) La Roche (H. du Nord). St. Hubert. Poix Stat. ROUTES THROUGH BELGIUM. ROUTE 15. DOVER TO CALAIS AND BRUSSELS, BY r LILLE.—RAIL. Many persons, especially in the winter season, prefer the shortest sea-voyage between England and the continent, on which account the following route through France is given here. Calais is connected by railway with Brussels and all the principal towns of Belgium. Steamers between Dover and Calais, twice daily each way, morning and evening, in 11 to 2 hrs. Steamers direct to London in 11 hrs. Calais.— Inn : II. Dessin (formerly Quillac’s). The Buffet at the Rly. Stat. affords refreshments, and is at the same time an Hotel —good beds. The Railway 'Terminus is on the quay where passengers land, under the same roof with the Buffet and Custom-house. Baggage is taken thither at once, and may be cleared by a commissionaire. 104 ROUTE 15. —CALAIS. Sect. II. (Introd. i.) Travellers not intending to remain in France—but merely passing through, on their way direct to Belgium —should inform the custom-house offi¬ cers, who will plomh their baggage for a small fee, instead of searching it, and mark it for transit. Persons going to Paris have the option of being searched there. Calais has 12,508 Inhab. ; it is a | fortress of the 2nd class, with a large and strong citadel , situated in a barren and unpicturesque district, with sand¬ hills raised by the wind and the sea on the one side, and morasses on the other, contributing considerably to its military strength, but by no means to the beauty of its position. Since 1840 it has been re-fortified, and the strength of its works greatly increased, especially to the seaward. An English traveller of the time of James I. described it as “ a beggarly, extorting town; monstrous dear and sluttish.” In the opinion of I many this description holds good down to the present time. The harbour, formed of 2 long parallel wooden piers , lengthened by 282 yards since 1830, is not so deep as that of Boulogne. Except to an Englishman setting his foot for the first time on the Continent, to whom everything is novel, Calais, has little that is remarkable to show. After an hour or two it becomes tire¬ some, and a traveller will do well to quit it as soon as he has cleared his baggage from the custom-house. The Pier of Calais is an agreeable promenade, nearly f m. long. It is decorated with a pillar, raised to com¬ memorate the return of Louis XVIII. to France, which originally bore this inscription:—“ Le 24 Avril, 1814, S. M. Louis XVIII. debarqua vis-a-vis do j cette colonne, et fut enfin rendu a I’ amour des Francais ; pour enperpetuer lc souvenir la ville de Calais a eleve ce monument.” u As an additional means of perpetuating this remembrance, a j brazen plate had been let into the pavement upon the precise spot where j his foot first touched the soil. It was ! the left; and an English traveller noticed it in his journal as a sinistrous omen, that when Louis le Desire, after his exile, stepped on France, he did not j put the right foot foremost.”— Quart. Rev. At the revolution of July, 1830, both inscription and footmark were obliterated, and the pillar now stands a monument merely of the mutability of French opinions and dynasties. The principal Gate leading from the sea-side into the town is that figured by Hogarth in his well-known picture. It was built by Cardinal ltichelieu, 1635. No one needs to be reminded of the interesting incidents of the siege of Calais by Edward III., which lasted 11 months, and of the heroic devotion of Eustace de St. Pierre and his 5 companions. Few, however, are aware that the heroes of Calais not only went unrewarded by their own king and countrymen, but were compelled to beg their bread in misery through France. Calais remained in the hands of the English more than 200 years, from 1347 to 1558, when it was taken by Francis II., Duke de Guise, with an army of 30,000 from a forlorn garrison of 500. It was the last relic of the Gallic dominions of the Plantagenets, which, at one time, comprehended the half of France. Calais was dear to the Eng¬ lish as the prize of the valour of their forefathers, rather than from any real value it possessed. In old times it was rendered nearly impregnable by the power of inundating the country round. Ardrcs, 10 m. off, was the French, and Gravelines the Imperial frontier fort¬ ress. The English traveller should look at the Hotel de Guise, at the end of Hue de la Prison, originally the guild¬ hall of the mayor and aldermen of the “ Staple of Wool.” established here by Edward III., 1363. It has a good gateway and other vestiges of English Tudor architecture. Ilenry VIII. used to lodge in it. In the great Market Place stands the Hotel de Ville (Town Hall). In it are situated the Police Offices. In front of it are placed busts of St. Pierre; of the Due de Guise, who conquered the town from the English ; and of the Car¬ dinal de Richelieu, who built the citadel on the W. of the town; above it rises a belfry, containing the chimes. The principal Church was built at the ROUTE 15. ST. OMER. 105 Belgium. time when tlie English were masters | of Calais. It is a tine church in the [ Dec. Gothic style, with a tower and j short steeple ; a modern circular chapel has been thrown out behind the choir. It is surmounted by a stately tower and short steeple, which merit notice. Lady Hamilton (Nelson’s Emma) is buried in the public cemetery outside the gate, on the road to Boulogne; she died here in great misery. A pillar marks the spot. The old town is in plan an oblong- square surrounded by old walls, having a gate to the sea, and one to the land. To this liaA r e been attached large modern suburbs , filled with busy fac¬ tories, lace-mills (for bobbin-net = tulle ), and steam-engines. The walls and the pier are admirable promenades, and com¬ mand a distinct view of the white cliffs of England—a tantalizing sight to the English exiles, fugitives from creditors or compelled from other causes to leave their homes; a numerous class both here and at Boulogne. There are many of our countrymen besides, who reside merely for the purpose of economising; so that the place is half Anglicised, and our language is generally spoken. The number of English residents in and about Calais amounts to about 4000. There is an English chapel , Buc dcs Pretres; service on Sundays, 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. Holy Trinity Church , in the suburb St. Pierre le Calais, was built to receive the English workpeople and masters. There is a small theatre here. Diligence daily to Boulogne and Gravelines. Calais to Brussels — Bailway —6 trains daily in 2 to 3 hrs. In going from Calais to Brussels, the traveller, on leaving Lille, may proceed by railway to Brussels, either (a) by Douai, Yalenciennes, Mons, and Braine le Comte, 162kilom. = 101-j; m.; or (b) by Courtrai, Ghent, and Mechlin, 150 kilom. = 93f m.; or (c) by Tournay, Ath, and Braine le Comte, 134 kilom. = 84 m. In any course he will he liable to frequent and most inconvenient change of carriages. Calais to Lille , 104 kilom. = 65 m. _ The Ely. station is at the end of the pier, on the Quajr. 2*5 St. Pierre Stat,, a suburb of Calais, having many bobbin-net-lace mills, and many Nottingham lace- makers employed in them. English ch. here. The Ely. ascends the course of the Aa, and crosses the Canal de St. Omer near the Pont sans Pareil. 01 • 9 Ardres Stat., a small fortress on the canal named after it. Between Ardres and Guisnes, a little to the W. of the road, took place, in 1520, the meeting between Henry VIII. and Francis I. The spot was called the Field of the Cloth of Gold , from the cloth of gold with which the tents and pa¬ vilions of the monarchs and their suites, consisting of 5696 persons, with 4325 horses, were covered. Guisnes with a garrison of 1000 men surrendered to the French a fortnight after Calais, 1558. 7 • 6 Audruicq Stat. 11*5 Watten Stat. 8*7 St. Omer Stat.—Inns : H. d’An- gleterre; Grande Ste. Catherine. A 3rd-rate fortress, whose strength arises more from the marshes which sur¬ round it, and the case with which three- fourths of its circuit can be flooded by the river Aa, than from its fortifications. It is a dull place, with 22,000 Inhab. The * Cathedral, at the upper end of the llue St. Bertin, is a fine building, showing the transition from the round to the pointed style. The E. end is a good example of a polygonal termina¬ tion, with projecting chapels. The in¬ terior is good. At the opposite end of the same street stand the scanty remains of the famous * Abbey Church of St. Bertin , once the noblest Gothic monument of French Flanders. Its destruction has been per¬ petrated since 1830. At the outbreak of the last revolution but two (1792) the monastery was suppressed: the Conven¬ tion spared it; and though, under the Directory, it was sold for the materials, unroofed, and stripped of its woodwork and metal, yet its walls remained com¬ paratively uninjured, until the magis¬ trates, in 1833, pulled it down in order to give some unemployed work¬ men something to do. The fragment F 3 106 ROUTE 15.—LILLE. Sect. II, remaining consists of a stately tower, built 1431-14G1, displaying the orna¬ ments of florid Gothic in the mutilated panelling on its walls, and bits of tra¬ cery in its windows ; a small portion of the nave remains attached to it. The tower has been carefully restored. The town is well seen from the top, but there is nothing else of interest in the view. Within the walls of the Abbey of St. Bertin the feeble Childeric III., the last of the rois faineans of the Merovingian race, passed the last 4 years of his life, and died in 754. Here, also, Becket sought refuge when a fugitive from England. A seminary for English and Irish Catholics exists here: it succeeded the Jesuits’ College, founded in 1596, by Father Parsons, for English refugee priests. Many of the intriguers against Queen Elizabeth, and of the conspirators in the Gunpowder Plot, were brought up here. Daniel O’Connell, a pupil of the same school, was educated hero for the priesthood. At present there are only 15 or 20 students. Dr. Alban Butler, author of ‘ Lives of the Saints/ died here, 1773, and was buried in a chapel now removed, whose site is oc¬ cupied by a military hospital. About 400 English reside here. Eng. Chapel , Hue du Bon Pasteur : Sunday, 11 and 3. 10 • 3 Eblinghem Stat. 10 Ilazebrouck Junction Stat., marked by a tall open stone steeple. Here the lines to Dunkirk and to Paris, through Bethune and Arras (54 kilom.), diverge. 6'3 Strazeele Stat. 8*6 Baillcul Stat.— Inn: Faucon. 1 • 9 Steenwerck Stat. 9 * 5 Armentieres Stat. 7 * 1 Pcrenchies Stat. The Illy, skirts the fortifications on the N. and E. of Lille, and joining the line from Bel¬ gium enters within the walls. 9-3 Lille (Flem. Rijssel) Stat.— Inns: II. dc Flandres et d’Angleterre, comfortable and not dear — II. de 1’Europe—FI. du Buffet at the Stat. This city contains, including the im¬ mediate suburbs, 131,827 Inhab., and is important both as a fortress of the first order for its strength, forming the cen¬ tral point of the defence of France on her N. frontier, and as a populous and industrious seat of manufacture, ranking seventh among the cities of France. It is chef-lieu of the Dept, du Nord, and wasformerly capital of French Flanders. The streams of the Haute and Basse Deule traverse the town, fill¬ ing its moats and turning the wheels of its mills; and they are connected by a canal, by means of which the country for 1^ m. around the walls can bo laid under water. The prosperity of the town being injured by the limits placed by its ramparts, a decree was passed 1858 for the removal of those y on the S side, and the formation of a new system of fortified outworks on an en¬ larged circle, and upon the most modern scientific system. There are no fine public buildings proportioned to the size and wealth of the city; its monuments have been levelled by bomb-shells, and its objects of interest for the passing traveller, unless he be a military man, are few :— Its Citadel is considered a masterpiece of the skill of Vauban, wbo was go¬ vernor of it for many years. It is a regular pentagon, furnished with all the accessories which engineering skill can suggest, especially since the siege of 1792, and so strong, because commanded by no point, and capable of isolation by breaking the canal dykes, and filling its wide moats, that it is deemed impreg¬ nable. A great deal of misery, how¬ ever, and enormous destruction of pro¬ perty and injury to agriculture, would follow an inundation. The citadel is separated from the town by the Espla¬ nade , a wide drilling-ground, which serves also as a public walk, being planted with trees and traversed by the canal. Lille was captured from the Spaniards by Louis XIY. in 1667, in whose honour the Triumphal Arch at the end of the Rue de Paris was erected. At different periods, and under different masters, it has stood seven distinct sieges; the one most memorable for an Englishman was that by the allied armies of Marlborough and Eugene, in 1708, of three months’ duration, during which the war was not merely waged above ground, but the most bloody combats were fought below the surface between the miners of the opposite armies, each endeavouring to Belgium. sap and undermine the galleries of his opponent. Boufflers, the French com-, mander, after a masterly defence, was compelled to capitulate, hut upon the most honourable terms. It was finally restored to France by the peace of Utrecht, 1715. In the Grande Place is a column and statue in memory of the citizens who fell in the siege and bom¬ bardment of 1792, of 9 days, by the Austrians, under the Duke of Saxe Coburg, who was compelled to raise the siege. The Bourse , a richly ornamented Spanish building, erected 1652. In the court is a statue of Napoleon I., the protector of the Industrie Nationale. The Hotel de Ville was mostly re¬ built 1849, but retains portions of 15th centy. in a brick gatehouse and tower, which belonged to a palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, built by Jean Sans-Peur, 1430, and inhabited by the Emperor Charles V. The Council chamber was painted by A. de Vuez, 1724. One division of the building, appropriated to a * Museum and school of art , contains a most interesting and valuable collection of drawings by old Italian masters , including 74 by Raphael, others by Masaccio, Fra Bartolomeo , and nearly 200 (mostly architectural) by Mich. Angelo , well worthy the inspec¬ tion of all who take an interest in art. They were left to the city by Chev’r. AVicar. Among a number of bad pictures, is one by Rubens , St. Catherine rescued from the AVheel of Martyrdom, painted for a chm-ch in the town. St. Cecilia and St. Francis are by Arnold de Vuez (a native artist of considerable merit, born 1642); and there is a series of portraits of the Counts of Flanders by De Vuez and Watteau. They arc open to the public. Les Archives, built 1844, contains deeds, charters, and documents con¬ nected with the history of the depart¬ ment and town from the earliest times. The Church of N. D. de la Trsille et St. Pierre was founded 1855, from de¬ signs of the English architects, Glutton and Burges, in the pointed style of the 13th cent., and is the largest eh. here. The Church of St. Maurice, close to the Illy. Stat., is in the Gothic style 107 of the 16th cent., resting on slender piers. It has 4 aisles; the outermost added 1626. The huge storehouses for corn, at the extremity of the Hue Boy ale, a street nearly a mile long, deserve notice. There are some very handsome shops in the Rue Esquermes. The tall chimneys of numerous mills, even within the walls, announce the active industry which is working here, and show the unusual combination of a fortress and manufacturing town; while the country around, and indeed a large part of the Departement du Nord, is like a hive in population and activity, not unworthy of being compared with parts of Lancashire and the AVest Riding. The chief manufacture is that of flax (which is cultivated in the vicinity). 200,006 spindles and 6000 females are employed in the spinning of flax. The spinning of sewing thread (fil pour la couture = la feltose) employs 4000 or 5000 hands. The manufacture of cot¬ ton (spinning) occupies 7000 persons (413,000 bx-oches or spindles). In the spinning of cotton Lille is a formidable rival of the English. The making of tulles and cotton lace has fallen off. The extraction of oils from colza and the seeds of rape, poppies, linseed, &c., and the manufacture of sugar from beetroot, are very important, having given a great impulse to agriculture, as well as employing many hands and hundreds of windmills. English Ch. Service , 7, Rue du Cure St. Etienne, by a resident chaplain. Of the three following Routes from Calais to Brussels, that marked (c) is the shortest. Lille to Brussels (a) by Douai, Valen¬ ciennes, and Mons, 162 kilom. —101^ Eng. m. 12 Seelin Stat. 8 Carvin Stat. 6 Leforest Stat. 7 Douai Stat. (Inns: H. de Flunclres -—du Commerce) is a town of 20,000 Inhab., surrounded by old fortifications, seated on the Scarpe, defended by a detached fort about 1^- m. distant on the 1. bank. Here is a 1 st-class Arsenal of ROUTE 15.-LILLE TO BRUSSELS. DOUAI. 108 ROUTE 15.—LILLE TO BRUSSELS. COURTIIAY. Sect. II. construction, and one of the 3 great cannon-foundries of France. It is the least thriving place in the Dept, du Nord; and though it covers more ground than Lille, does not contain half as many inhab. Like the Flemish towns, it has a picturesque Beffroi close to its market-place, rising above the Gothic Hotel cle 1 Glle, built at the end of the 15th cent. In an old Jesuits’ convent, near the Place St. Jacques (not far from the Stat.), are:—1. The Public Library , 35,000 vols., besides near 1000 MSS. from suppressed convents, includ¬ ing the English and Scotch convents at Douai; 2. a Museum of Antiquities (old records of the family de Lalaing, See.) and Pictures (old Flemish school, &c.). In the Ch. of Notre Dame is a very remarkable early Flemish altar- piece (by an unknown artist), consisting of a variety of subjects—the Trinity, the Virgin, Saints, &c., with figures innu¬ merable : it well deserves notice. The Artillery Barrack aux Grands Anylais (close to the Ply. Stat.) was originally the English College , or semi¬ nary, founded in 1569 by an English¬ man, Cardinal Allen, to educate Bom an Cath. priests for England and Ireland. There were other English, Scotch, and Irish seminaries here, one alone of which (the Benedictines) remains. O’Connell studied here. There is a con¬ siderable trade in flax here. Every year, in the early part of July, a procession parades the streets of Douai, consisting of a giant of osier, called Geant Gayant, dressed in armour, 30 ft. high, attended by his wife and family, of proportionate size; the giant doll is moved by 8 men enclosed within it. Hence a branch line to Anzin coal-mines. 8 Montigny Stat. 7 Somain Stat. 9 Wallers Stat. 6 Baismes Stat. 5 Valenciennes Junct. Stat. (Inns : La Poste;—H. des Princes, very good, comfortable, and well furnished; — H. du Commerce), a fortress of the second class, with a strong citadel constructed by Vauban, is an ill-built town, lying on the Schelde, and has a population of 22,000 souls. In 1793 it was taken by the Allies, under the Duke of York and General Abcr- cromby, after a siege of 84 days and a severe bombardment, which destroyed a part of the town: it was yielded back next year. In the grand square, or Place d’Armes, are situated the Theatre and the Hotel dc Yille, a fine building, half Gothic half Italian in style, built 1612, and containing 3 pic¬ tures by Bubens, brought from the Abbey of St. Amand les Eaux; St. Stephen preaching; a Banker, by Q. Matsys, &c.; the Beffroi, 170 ft. high, built 1237, fell 1843, and caused a serious loss of life. The Church of St. Gerg is the principal one. The cele¬ brated Valenciennes lace is manufac¬ tured here, and a considerable quantity of fine cambric. This is the birthplace of Watteau, the painter; of Froissart, the historian (his statue is in the Place St. Gery); and of the minister D’Ar- genson. At Bavay (Bavacum Nerviorum) is a Roman Circus and other remains. At St. Amand des Eaux are ruins of a Benedictine Abbey and a fine church. For the railway hence to Brussels, see Bte. 32. Lille to Brussels (b) bg Courtrai and Ghent , 150 kilom. = 93'| Eng. m. 9 Roubaix Stat. This industrious town, of 24,000 Inhab., has considerable cotton manufactories. Near it the Eng¬ lish, under the Duke of York, met with a severe defeat from the French under Pichegru, May 18, 1794, losing 1000 killed, 2000 prisoners, and 60 cannon. 3 Tourcoing Stat. (Thn, Cygne, dirty.) This town, with 20,000 Inhab., is famed for its manufacture of carpets and wool¬ len yarn. In 1794 the Duke of York’s force was here surrounded by the French, and 1500 men, witli fifty guns, cap¬ tured. The Duke escaped only by the fleetness of his horse. 5 Mouscron Junct. Stat. Buffet not good. 7244 Inhab. Belgian custom¬ house, and junction of the railway from To urn ay. 12 Courtray, Stat. (Flemish Ivor- tryk). Inns : Aigle Noir;—Damier, good and cheap;—Lion d’Or, in the Great Place. A manufacturing town of 22,500 In- ROUTE 15.—COURTRAY. 109 Belgium. hah., on tlie Lys, remarkable for its i cleanliness and for the table damask and other linen made here, which is sent to all parts. An immense quantity of I flax of vciy fine quality is culti- ! vated in the surrounding plain, and j supplies not only the manufactories of the town, but many of the markets of Europe. There are largo bleaching- grounds in the neighbourhood, the waters of the Lys being supposed to possess qualities favourable for bleaching i as well as for the steeping of flax. The first Flemish cloth manufacture was established here in 1260. The principal buildings arc the Hotel de Ville in the market-place, a Gothic edifice, built 1526, restored 1860. It contains two very singular carved chimney-pieces, containing figures of the Virtues and Vices, bas-reliefs of subjects relating to the municipal and judicial destination of the building, and to events in the early history of the town, including a procession of women on horseback, holding a ban¬ ner in one hand and a dagger in the other. Many of them may be styled caricatures in bas-relief. They bear the J date of 1587 and 1595. The statues of Charles V., and of the Archduke Albert and Archduchess Isabella, occupy con¬ spicuous places. The Church of Notre Dame is a Gothic edifice, founded 1238 by Baldwin Count of Flanders and Empr. of Constantinople, but modernised. It contains behind the high altar a celebrated painting by Vandyh, the Raising of the Cross. The drawing is bold and powerful, re¬ minding one of Rubens; only the colouring is inferior to his in freshness. Vandyk’s autograph letter, acknow¬ ledging with thanks the receipt of the money for the painting, as well as of some gauffres , a thin sweet cake, for : which Courtrai is still celebrated, pre¬ sented to him by the canons, is still in existence. In the Count's Chapel, an elegant Gothic structure, built 1374, attached to this ch., the spurs of the French knights killed at the battle of Courtrai were formerly suspended to j the roof. Curious bas-reliefs, represent¬ ing the 7 mortal sins, run round the wall, under the windows. In St. Martin's Ch ., N. side of choir, is a beautiful tabernacle or shrine of carved stonework, in the richest Gothic style- date probably end of the 15th cent.— for holding the sacrament; also a carved pulpit. These escaped a con¬ flagration caused by lightning 1862, which destroyed great part of the ch. It is being restored. There is a Museum.i of modern paint¬ ings, Rue do Chaussee, near the Bcffroi. Two ancient Towers (Broelen Toren) of solid masonry(datcs 1413-65) alone were left standing on the banks of the lys, when the fortifications were des¬ troyed by Louis XIV. in 1684. The old bridge and its flanking towers make a picturesque group. Under the walls of Courtrai was fought the Battle of Spurs, 1302 (not to be confounded with the “ Battle of Spurs ” in which Henry VIII. put the French chivalry to flight, 1513), gained by an army of 20,000 Flemings, prin¬ cipally weavers of Ghent and Bruges, under the Count de Namur, over the French under the Count d’Artois, brother of Philip lc Bel and Constable of France, in which the latter was slain, and with him 1200 knights, while several thousand common soldiers were left dead on the field. 700 gilt spurs (an ornament worn only by the French nobility) were gathered on the field from the dead, and hung up as a trophy in the church of the convent of Grocniguen, now destroyed: from this circumstance the battle receives its name. A small chapel, built 1831, on the rt. of the road, a little way out¬ side the Porte de Gand, marks the centre of the battle-field. Excursion , by rail, to Ypres (Rtc. 16.) Bail roads to Ghent, to Lille (see Rtc. 15), to Tournay and Ypres. Railway Courtrai to Bruges, in Rtc. 21 a. ; also to Fumes. Ileule Stat. 6 Haerlebeke Stat. 9 AVaereghem Stat. 4 m. N.AV. of this is the village of Roosbecke, near which Philip van Artcvelde, the brewer of Ghent, was defeated, in 1382, by the French, and, with 20,000 of his country¬ men, perished in the battle.—See Tay¬ lor’s Philip van Artevelde. 110 ROUTE 15. —OUDENARDE. TOURNAY. Sect. II. 5 Olsene Stat. On Sun., Mon., Fri. 7 Deynze Stat. This town (4000 In- hab.) is situated on the 1. bank of theLys. On the opposite bank, between the rail¬ road and the river, is Petcghcm. The old castle here was the residence of the French kings of the second race. A carriage may be hired at Deynze to [Oudenarde (Flem. Audenaerde) — Inns: Pomme d’Or; Lion d’Or—12 rn. from the rly. It is a town of 6300 Inhab., on the Schelde, containing one of the handsomest * Town Halls in the Nether¬ lands, though small in size, built 1525- 30, in the flamboyant Gothic style. In front runs an arcade of great elegance, supporting a balcony, above which rises a tower not unlike that of Brussels, but smaller. The entrance to the Council chamber is a beautiful specimen of wood carving in the style of the Renaissance, executed 1530, by Paul van der Schcl- den. The Ch. of St. Walburga is also handsome, possesses an Assumption by Grayer, and the tomb of Claude Jalon : N. Dame de Pcimele is of elegant Gothic (date 1239), and contains 2 old monu¬ ments. The tower called het Sacchsen , and the bridge of the Porte d’Eyne, are very ancient structures. This is the birthplace of MargaretDuchess of Parma, governess of the Low Countries under Philip II., and natural daughter of Charles V., by Margaret van Geest, a lady of this place. The battle of Oude- nardc, fought under its walls in 1708, was gained over the French by the English, in a great measure through the personal prowess and exertions of Marl¬ borough.)] 5 Nazareth Stat. 12 Ghent Stat. Hence to Mechlin, see Rte. 21; and for the Railway from Mechlin to Bruselss, see Rte. 23. Lille to Brussels (c), by Tour nay, 134 kilom.—84 Eng. m. 9 Roubaix Stat. 3 Tourcoing Stat. 5 Mouscron Stat. See previous Rte. (b). Travellers from Lille to Tournay, and vice versa , here change carriages. Nechin Stat. Templeuve Stat. Tournay Stat., on the rt. bank of the Schelde. (Flem. Doornik). Inns: II. de Plmperatrice, clean; Singe d’Or, good. A fortified town of 33,000 Inhab., on the Schelde, whose banks are faced with masonry, so as to contract the river into a navigable channel, and form at the same time handsome Quais on each side. It is a flourishing and increasing town, a place of great manufacturing industry. The workmen labour chiefly at home, not in large factories, which gives the town a more cheerful character. The car¬ pets , commonly called Brussels, come in fact from Tournay ; the art of weaving them was brought hither, ac¬ cording to tradition, from the East by Flemings, who served in the Crusades, and learned it from the Saracens. The principal manufactory (called la manu¬ facture royale ), though fallen off, still occupies 90 looms and about 2400 per¬ sons. Its products cannot be purchased here, but at Brussels. Stockings also arc made here. Tournay is supposed to be the Civitas Nerviorum mentioned by Caesar in the Commentaries. Immense sums have been expended on the fortifications since the peace, and a new citadel constructed. It was considered one of the strongest fortresses on the outer line nearest to France, and endured many sieges from English, French, and Spaniards. The most memorable, perhaps, was that of 1581, by the Prince of Parma, when the defence was conducted by a woman, Philippine, Princess d’Espinoi, of the noble family of Lalaing. She is said to have united the skill of a prudent gene¬ ral to the most intrepid bravery. Though wounded in the arm, she refused to quit the ramparts, and at length only yielded to capitulation when three-fourths of her garrison had fallen around her. A bronze Statue of her, by Dutricux, has been erected on the Grande Place. Henry VIII. took Tournay, 1513; and bestowed the see on his favourite VVolsey, who, bribed by the offer of Ill Belgium. route 15 .- Francis I.’s interest in obtaining for him the papacy, not only yielded up the bishopric, but induced his master to sell the town to the French King in 1518. The most interesting edifice in the town is the * Cathedral, the largest in Belgium, conspicuous from all sides with its 5 stately towers: it is exceed¬ ingly fine, especially in its interior. It was founded by King Childeric, whose capital Tournay was. The existing edifice is in great part Romanesque, and is undoubtedly the finest of the style in Belgium. It is 400 ft. long. The nave consists of a double tier of arches—the upper forming a grand gal¬ lery—nearly equal in height, massive and grand, surmounted by triforium and clerestory in the same style. The transepts, built about 1146, terminate in apses, the most beautiful feature of the ch. “ Notwithstanding a certain rudeness of detail, they arc certainly the finest productions of their age, and as magnificent a piece of architecture as can bo conceived. The choir, 110 ft. high, as it at present stands, was dedi¬ cated 1338 ; and though displaying a certain beauty of proportion, and the most undoubted daring of construction, its effect is frail and weak. It was found necessary to double the thickness of the piers after they were erected.”— Fergusson’s Architecture . The W. front has been disfigured by various altera¬ tions ; a groined porch in the Pointed style extends the whole length of the front, and above it a large rose window has been introduced. The N. and S. portals, adjoining the transepts, enriched with antique sculptures, deserve notice. The choir is separated from the nave by a roodscreen (date 1566), an incon¬ gruous composition of varied marbles in the Italian style, with bas-reliefs of the Passion, &c., inserted, surmounted by a statue of St. Michael. The old painted glass is attributed to Steucrbout; that of the choir is modern, by Capronnier. At the side of the high altar is placed the Gothic shrine of St. Eleutherius (Bp. of Tournay in the 5th cent.), of silver gilt, of very rich workmanship (date 1247), and adorned with pre¬ cious stones, surrounded by figures of the 12 apostles. At the first French -TOURNAY. revolution this church was not only stripped of its revenues, but pillaged and defaced. 1 he shrine escaped through the zeal of a citizen of the town, who buried it. The chapter is now sup¬ ported by the Government, which has also laid out 20,000 1. most judiciously in restoring the building. There is a painting by Rubens, the Souls in Pur¬ gatory, in the master’s characteristic style; and in the Sacristy, among a gorgeous collection of priestly robes, is the mantle of the Empr. Charles V., worn at the 20th Chapter of the Golden Fleece, held in this church 1531; and an embroidered silk chasuble of St. Thomas Becket. King Childeric I., the father of Clovis, and whom some consider the real founder of the French monarchy, died in 482, and was buried in the church of St. Brice, on the opposite side of the Schelde. In his coffin were found (1655) a clasp of gold bearing his head, still preserved here, and many other curiosities now deposited in the Biblotheque du Roi at Paris; among them the “ Golden Bees,” with which his royal robes are supposed to have been studded. They were, in consequence, adopted by Buonaparte in his coronation vestments, in preference to the fleurs cle Us, as symbols of the imperial dignity. St. Quentin, in the triangular Grande Place, is a very elegant Church in the transition style, from round to pointed. At the end of the Grande Place is the Beffroi, the oldest in Belgium, a fine tower of the 12th century, on a base said to be Roman. Spire modern. One of its bells is inscribed— “Banclocque suis de commune nominee Car pour effroi de guerre suis sonnee.” Post Office, Rue du Cure Notre Dame. The Convent of St. Martin (b. 1770), is converted into an Hotel de 1 ille. In it arc a few modern paintings, including the dead bodies of Egmont and Horn, by Gallait, a native of Tournai. Ad¬ joining it is a shady walk called the Park, and the Botanic Garden. There are some interesting specimens of do¬ mestic architecture in Tournay. Perkin Warbeck, the pretender to 112 ROUTE 15.—ATH. ENGHEIN. Sect. II. the throne of Henry VII., who gave himself out as one of the princes mur¬ dered in the Tower, was, by his own con¬ fession, the son of a Jew of Tournay. At Vaulx, famous for its stonc-quar- l’ics, on the hanks of the Schelde, 2 m. from Tournay, is a square structure with turrets in the corners, said to he of ltoman origin, probably of the 11th or 12th centy. The valley of the Schelde around Tournay is very fertile, producing much corn. Lime is found in abundance : it is quarried in many places and exported far and wide. [About 5 m. S.E. of Tournay lies the battle-field of Fontenoy , where the English under the Duke of Cumber¬ land, with the Dutch and Austrians, were defeated in 1745 by the French under Marshal Saxe, who was at the time so ill as to be unable to sit on horseback or to wear armour, and was therefore carried in a litter. Though the result was unfavourable to the Eng¬ lish, the skill shown by their com¬ manders and the bravery of the troops were highly creditable to them. The fortune of the day was in some measure decided by the Irish battalions in the pay of France. Louis XV. had his head¬ quarters in *the Castle of Antoing , 4-1 m. from Tournay, the picturesque ruins of which remain, including a lofty keep tower, whose top commands the best view of the battle-field. It belongs to the Prince do Ligne. In its church are some curious monuments in black stone with effigies of Counts of Melun. Inn , Cigne.] 14 Bary Stat. 6 Leuze Stat. A town of 5700 Inhab. 6 Ligne Stat. 5 Ath Junct. Stat. — {Inns: Cigne, good ; IT. du Commerce.)—Ath on the Lender, with 8500 Inhab., was a fortress upon which Vauban employed his utmost skill, and its works were strengthened after 1815; but, as it could not be made very strong, it is now dismantled. It is a flourishing manufacturing town. The principal buildings are the Hotel dc Ville , a structure of the time of the Archduke Albert (1600), and the Church of St. Julien , founded in 1398, destroyed by lightning, except its E. 1 end, in 1817, and since rebuilt, but i without its tall steeple. The most ancient monument in the town is a tower called Tour du Burbard , which probably dates from 1150. Railway by Grammont and Ninovc to Alost, Brussels, andTermonde (Bte. 19). About 6 m. from Ath, on the road to Mons, is Belceil , the patrimonial estate of the Princes de Ligne since 1394. The celebrated diplomatist, soldier, and au¬ thor of this family gives in his letters a long description of his country seat and gardens: they were laid out in the formal French taste by le Notre, and excited the admiration of Delillc, who mentions this spot in his poem ‘ Les Jardins,’ as— “ lielceil tout a la fois rnagnifique et cham- petre.” Both Voltaire and Delille visited the Prince in his retirement here. The Castle, founded 1146, surrounded by wa¬ ter, has been rebuilt in indifferent taste. It contains a fine Library; some interest¬ ing historical relics and works of art; paintings by Diirer, Holbein, Van Dyk, Velazquez, L. da Vinci, Salv. Bosa; portraits of more than 100 Princes de Ligne ; the swords with which Egmont and Hoorn were beheaded; also a collec¬ tion of firearms, from their invention. The number and length of the avenues and high hornbeam hedges, with win¬ dows cut in them, intersecting the grounds in all directions, form the sin¬ gular and characteristic feature of the Park. The Conservatories contain a first-rate collection of rare plants. [About 12 m. from Ath, onthepost-road to Brussels, is Enghien , a town of 3680 Inhab. It was an ancient possession of the houses of Luxemburg and Bourbon, but was sold by Henry IV., King of France, to the Duke d’Aremberg, in 1607, and still remains in the posses¬ sion of his family. The chateau was destroyed at the French Bcvo- lution; but the beautiful park and gardens deserve notice. They served, it is said, as a model for the famous DUNKIRK. 113 Belgium. route 16.—Calais gardens of Versailles, and are laid out in the same formal style, with avenues, temples, statues, canals, basins, a line conservatory, &c. 7 avenues of beech and horse-chestnuts diverge from a temple in the park.] 3 Maflles Stat. 3 Attre Stat. 2 Brugelette Stat. 5 Lens Stat. 4 Jurbise Junct. Stat. Here the railway joins that from Valenciennes and Mons. For the rest of the route to Brussels see Bte. 32. ROUTE 16. CALAIS TO COURTRAI, BY DUNKIRK AND YPRES. 58 kilom. and 13 Belg. posts = 83 Eng. m. Road good, hut paved. Railway by Lille to Dunkirk. 24 Gravelines. A fortress and deso¬ late-looking small town, with grass growing in its streets : it has 3000 Inhah. “ It is,” to use the words of an old writer, “ very strong, by reason that they can drown it round in 4 hours, so as no land shall be within a mile of it.” It is surrounded by a plain, once a vast marsh, below the level of the sea, nearly 20 m. long by 12 broad: almost all this can be laid under water in case of need, to ward off a hostile invasion on this side of France. It is a very un¬ healthy place at times, owing to the quantity of stagnant water around it. TO COURTRAI. At present this district supports a popu¬ lation of 60,000. It is protected fi ■om the sea by the dunes or sand-hills, and is gradually being drained by its inha¬ bitants. It would cost the arrondisse- ment 10 millions of francs to repair the damage caused by admitting the waters upon the land. The Empr. Charles V. here paid a visit to Henry VIII. on his return from his interview with Francis I. at the Field of the Cloth of Gold, 1520. Beyond Gravelines the road is paved. 20 Dunkirk ; Fr. Dunkerque (Inns: Chapeau Rouge, very good) ; a con¬ siderable fortified town and seaport, with 30,000 Inhah. Large sums have been expended in endeavouring to clear the mouth of the harbour from the bar of sand which obstructs it, by means of basins and sluices, which are filled by the flowing of the tide and dis¬ charged at low water, so as to scour a channel through the mud. They are said to have failed in producing the results anticipated. Dunkirk, nevertheless, is the best harbour which France possesses in the N. Sea, and ranks fourth in the value of its exports and imports of all the seaports in the kingdom. It serves as the outlet for the manufacturing dis¬ trict of the Dept, du Nord. “It is one of, the cleanest towns in France, with wide streets, well paved—living cheap —baths very good.”— I). C. The Quai, usually crowded with ves¬ sels, and Pier extending far into the sea, are worth seeing; so is the Corinthian portico of the church of St. Eloi, a handsome but most incongruous frontis¬ piece to a Gothic building: in front of it is a fine detached Gothic belfry con¬ taining the chimes. The interior of the church is fine : it has a double side aisle. There is an English Protestant church, Rue des Soeurs Blanches—proof of a number of British residents—and a Bri¬ tish Consul. A statue (by David d’Angers) of Jean Bart, a famous sea-captain, born here (temp. Louis XIV.), stands in the great market-place. Dunkirk owes its origin to a chapel built by St. Eloi in the 7th cent. 114 ROUTE 16.— DUNKIRK. CASSEL. Sect. II. among the dunes or sand-hills, and thence conies its name—“ Church of the Dunes.” Here was equipped the Flemish division of the Spanish armada, designed to combine in the invasion of England under the command of the Prince of Parma; hut that skilful general, per¬ haps foreseeing the result, refrained from putting out to sea. Dunkirk, after hav¬ ing been hardly won by the English, under Oliver Cromwell, from the Spa¬ niards, 1658, was basely sold by Charles II. to Louis XIV. for 6 millions of livres, in 1662. By the Treaty of Utrecht (1715) the French were compelled to demolish the town and fortifications ; and an English commissioner was actually sent hither to ascertain that the stipulations of the treaty wore complied with to the letter -—a source of deep humiliation to French pride, but of more immediate misery to the poor inhabitants. The port and fortifications were not restored until 1740. The country around is little better than a dreary waste of sand-hills thrown up by the wind. It was in the neigh¬ bourhood of them that Turcnne defeated, in 1658, the Spanish army under Don Juan of Austria and the great Conde, who had sided at that time with the enemies of France, in the battle of the Dunes. The siege of the town had been commenced by Mazarin, at the dictation of Cromwell, whose fleet blockaded it by sea. The Spaniards, unprovided with ar¬ tillery, advanced to meet the French, by marching close to the sea. Conde remonstrated in vain with Don Juan against a measure so perilous: “ Yous no connaisscz pas M. do Turennc,” said he; “on ne fait pas impuncment des fautes devant un si grand homme and just as the action began he turned to the young Duke of Gloucester and asked if he had ever been in a battle be¬ fore. “ No,” answered the Duke. “ Then you will sec one lost in half an hour.” The action was commenced by 6000 English soldiers of Cromwell, command¬ ed by Lockhart, his ambassador, who formed the left wing of the French army, and distinguished themselves eminently : their charge carried everything before it, and contributed not a little to the result. The Duke of York (afterwards James II.) fought in the opposite ranks, at the head of a regiment of cavaliers; and it was from them that their fellow- countrymen suffered most. The Spani¬ ards lost 4000 men, and Dunkirk surren¬ dered 10 days after in consequence of this defeat. There is a canal from Dunkirk to Fumes, Ostend, and Bruges, traversed daily by a barge. Diligences daily to Ostend. Steamers to London; to St. Petersburg and Ham¬ burg. A railway connects Dunkirk with Lille and Paris, passing by Bcrgues, Cassel, and Hazebrouck. Its length is 41 kilom„ = 25§ m. 8 Bcrgues Stat. (see below). 9 Esquelbecq Stat. 7 Arneeke Stat. 7 Cassel Stnt. —(Znws: H. duSauvage; II. du Lion Blanc.) Cassel is an an¬ cient town of 4234 Inhab. on a hill 500 ft. high. It is worth while, in fine weather, to stop here for a short time to enjoy the view, one of the most extensive in Europe. Although it has no striking features, it cannot be con¬ templated without deep interest, as exhibiting on a clear day an unusually extensive tract of highly cultivated and productive country. Its most remark¬ able feature is that the horizon is almost equally distant in every direc¬ tion, as no rising ground interrupts the sight. It extends over the flat and fer¬ tile plains of Flanders and as far as the white cliffs of England, into 3 different kingdoms; includes 32 towns and 100 villages. St. Omer, Dunkirk, Ypres, Ostend, and the beautiful steeple of Hazebrouck are the most prominent ob¬ jects: no freshwater is visible in this vast expanse. Mount Cassel was one of the principal signal stations of the great trigonometrical survey carried on during the reign of Napoleon. A small map of the country visible may be purchased on the spot for 20 sous. The gardens and grounds of the late ROUTE 16. —YPRES. ilENIN. 115 Belgium. General Yandamme, who was born liere, are no longer kept up. “ Flemish is the general language of the entire population in the N. parts of the Dept, clu Nord. It is spoken at Cassel, and as far as Watch” lOHazebrouek Stat. (See Etc. 15.) Dunkirk by Ypres to Courtrai, either by rail or post road as far as Bergues Stat, {Inn : Poste ; small but cheap), a small and poor fortified town of 6000 Inhab., situated on an elevation surrounded by marshes and salt lakes, called Moeren, formerly waste and insa¬ lubrious ; but having been drained with¬ in a few years, by the construction of hydraulic works, they arc now becom¬ ing more productive and less unwhole¬ some. Though only a fortress of the third class, the possession of Bergues has been deemed of such consequence in every war that it has been 8 times taken and retaken and 9 times pillaged in the course of 8 centuries. It has a pictur¬ esque beffroi 150 ft. high. A very im¬ portant corn-market is held here every Monday. The gates are closed at 10, after which neither ingress nor egress is allowed. The French frontier and custom-house is reached at Oest Cappel. The country through which the road passes is most fertile, enclosed with hedges and abounding in wood, which gives it, though flat, a pleasing English character. Large quantities of hops are cultivated in this district. If Bousbrugge, a Belgian village. Poperinghe , a decayed town of 11,000 Inhab. Trades in Hemp. From this a railroad is open to Ypres Stat. ( Inn : Tetc d’Or), a fortified town of 17,600 Inhab., in a fertile plain on the Yperle. The marshes around it have been drained, and it is consequently less unhealthy than formerly. The kind of linen called diaper , that is, d’ Ypres , was made here. Thread and thread-lace arc the principal articles made here at present. The extent and prosperity of its manu¬ factures had raised the number of its Inhab. to 200,000 souls in the 14th cent., at which period 4000 looms were con¬ stantly at work. Its importance has long since departed, and the only relic which remains to prove its former greatness is the Town House , called *Les Halles , in the great market-place, a low building of brick, 436 ft. long, and in a rich style of Gothic architecture, surmounted by a stately belfry tower in the centre. It was begun in 1230, and continued till 1342. The 44 statues, in front, of Counts of Flandres down to Charles V., are modern. The E. end, supported on pillars, was added in 1730. It was, in fact, a cloth hall, devoted to the service of the cloth manufacturers in olden times. Close to it. is the Cathedral of St. Martin, a Gothic edifice of con¬ siderable size, but not of great beauty. Date of choir, 1221; the rest more recent. It contains a carved pulpit, and a picture representing, in com¬ partments, the story of the Fall of Man, attributed to Van Eyck, but bearing the date 1525, and probably by Peter Porbus. It is well coloured, and a faith¬ ful representation of the human form, but without grace or beauty. A fiat stone in the cloister marks the tomb of Jansen, founder of the sect called Jansenists, so long persecuted by the Jesuits. He was Bishop of Ypres, and died 1683. Pailway (West Flanders) from Ypres to Bruges by Comines Stat. (in the ruined Castle was born, 1445, Philip dc C., author of the Memoirs). Werwicq Stat. Fine ch. 14tli cent. c >\ Menin Stat. {Inn: Faucon), on the Lys. The works of this frontier fortress are now demolished. With its 9640 Inhab., it is very dismal and lifeless. The boundary line of France actually touches the glacis. On the way to Courtrai is the village of Bisseghem, near which the Duke of York was defeated in 1793 by General Souham, and lost 65 pieces of cannon. Courtrai Stat, 116 ROUTE 17. —CALAIS TO BRUGES. Sect. II. ROUTE 17. CALAIS TO BRUGES, BY FURNES, DIX- MUDE, AND LICHTERVELDE. 66 kilom. to Fumes; Fumes to Bruges, Rail. A very uninteresting route: the road is improved, but 2 leagues of sand near the frontier, a drive of 2^ hrs., remain unpaved. 20 “r }*•.«•. A well-appointed omnibus runs daily from Dunkirk to Ostcnd, in direct com¬ munication with the railway trains, in 5 hrs. Avoid the trekschuit from Dun¬ kirk to Ostcnd. The nearest way from Dunkirk to Fumes, when the state of the tide per¬ mits, is across the sands by the sea-side; but they are sometimes quick. At the extremity of the sands, about 4 m. from Furnes, is the boundary of France and Belgium, and the station of the custom¬ house. At a place still called Bloed- Pannc , in the midst of sand-hills, was fought, 1658, the Battle of the Dunes, between the Spaniards under Don Juan of Austria, with whom was Conde, and Marshal Turenne (see Dunkirk). 22 Furnes Stat. (Flemish, Veuren). Tan: La Noble Rose. A sickly town, owing to the malaria from the sur¬ rounding marshes—4600 Inhab. A great part of the linen manufactured in Belgium is sold here at large fairs held three times a year. The Hotel de Ville is in the Renais¬ sance style, 1596-1612. It has 2 rooms i hung with Spanish leather. Adjoining are the Palais de Justice, and the Beffroi , I a tower of brick, completed 1629. The Ch. of St. Walburge is the choir j of a stately Gothic structure, begun early in the 14th centy., and left unfinished. The oaken pulpit, carved with St. i John in Patmos, and the choir stalls are of 17th centy. work. In the sacristy is a fragment of the true Cross brought by Count Robert of Flanders from Jerusalem 1099. Between Furnes and the sea stood i the famous Cistercian Abbey of the Dunes, founded 1107-1237 : remains of I it may be seen on the farm called Ten Bogaerde. It was destroyed by the Grueux 1560. Dixmude Stat. {Inn: la Porte d’Or.) 4100 Inhab. Here is a fine and large Gothic church , containing a stone Pood- screen of elaborate and beautiful work¬ manship, in an excessively florid (flamboyant) style. Over the high altar hangs a chef-d’oeuvre of Jordaens , the Adoration of the Magi. [Between Furnes and Ostcnd is | Nicuport, a desolate, unhealthy town, I and port nearly sanded up. The de¬ tached tower, between it and the sea, was a lighthouse, built 1284 by Count Guy Dampierre. In the Grande Place j are the Halles with a beffroi. This strong fortress is memorable for the ; victory gained on the sand-hills out¬ side its walls at Westende, by Prince Maurice of Nassau, in 1600, over the i Spaniards. His brother, Prince Fre¬ deric Henry, then only 15, and several ! young English noblemen, led on by Sir ! Francis and Horace Vere, served under ■ him. When the action was about to commence, Maurice, who foresaw that it would be a bloody engagement, and had made up his mind to conquer or perish, recommended the youthful band to return to Ostend and reserve them¬ selves for some other occasion. They scorned to accept the suggestion, and determined to share all the perils of the contest. In the first onset Sir Francis Yere was desperately wounded, and the i English volunteers suffered severely, 117 Belgium, route 18 . —London to Antwerp, the sciielde. though they gave an eminent example | of courage. The good generalship of 1 Prince Maurice was never more con- j spicuous than on that day, and the arms of the patriots were eventually triumphant.] Handzaemc Stat. Lichtcrvelde June. Stat. (Etc. 16). [Ghistelles is a pretty village, named from the stable or stud of the Counts of Flanders, which was situated here, attached to the old Castle , now re¬ moved. In the modern Church is the monument of St. Godalieve , wife of Bertulf Lord of Ghistellcs, in the 11 th cent., who was strangled by her hus¬ band through jealousy, and is now worshipped as a saint. Her skull lies in a shrine of silver, before which a lamp burns night and day. Above her altar is a pair of angels, as large as life, bearing plains and a crown, typical, of martyrdom.] 2 j; Bruges Stat. See Etc. 21 . EOUTE 18. LONDON TO ANTWERP, BY THE SCIIELDE. About 210 m. A Belgian and 2 Eng¬ lish steamers go from London every Sun., Tues., and Thurs.; from Antwerp every Sun., Wed., and Fri. Fares: chief cabin, 21. 2s .; second cabin, 11 .; a carriage, 4-1. The voyage occupies from 20 to 24 hrs., 7 of which are taken up in descending the Thames and G in as¬ cending the Schelde. The course from the Thames to the Schelde is almost a straight line. It was the situation of the Schelde, immediately opposite the mouth of the English river and the port of London, that caught the attention of Napoleon, who saw what advantageous use might be made of such a harbour to annoy the English in war or rival them in commerce. The Schelde dues were abolished by treaty between Holland and Belgium in I 860 . O 11 entering the mouth of the river called the Hond, or West Schelde, the land on the 1. hand is Walchercn, the largest of the 9 islands which form the province of Zealand, or Zeeland (Sea land). The district is most appropriately named, since the greater part of it lies many feet below the level of the sea ; it may, therefore, truly be said to appertain naturally to that element. The isles of Zealand, separated from one another by the different branches of the Schelde, are protected from the inroads of the ocean, partly by natural sand-banks or dunes (§ 12 ), partly by enormous dykes or sea-walls (§ 9), which measure more than 300 in. in extent, and cost annu¬ ally more than 2 millions of florins to keep them in repair. Of the great dyke at West Ivappel, in the island of Wal- : cheren, it is said, that, had it been ori¬ ginally made of solid copper, the first cost would have been less than the sums j already expended in building and re¬ pairing it. The polders, or drained and dyked meadows, are divided by the water engineers into two classes—those ! nearest the sea or river, which are of ; course most exposed to inundation, are I called polders calamiteux; the more dis¬ tant arc distinguished as non calamiteux. The first class requires stronger dykes, j the maintenance of which is considered j so important that they are kept up partly I at the expense of government; those ! further inland, not being equally cx- | posed to danger, arc maintained by the province or by private individuals. A large portion of the country being thus partitioned out, as it were, by dykes, even should the outer or sea- | dyke break, the extent of the disaster 118 ROUTE 18. —WALCHEREN. FLUSHING. Sect. II. is limited by tlieso inner defences, and the further ravages of the flood are pre¬ vented. Notwithstanding the care with which they are continually watched, a rupture took place, in 1808, in the great dyke of West Kappel, by which a great part of the island of Walcheren was in¬ undated; the sea stood as high as the roofs of the houses in the streets of Middelburg, and the destruction of that town wasprevented solely by the strength of its walls. The whole province is most fertile and productive, especially in corn and madder, which may be considered the staple. Its meadows, manured with wood ashes, bear excellent grass. It is also exceedingly populous, abounding in towns and villages; but, owing to the embankments which enclose them, the only indications of their existence are the summits of spires, roofs, and tall chimneys, seen at intervals over these artificial mounds by those who ascend the Schelde. The industry of the Zea¬ land peasant, and the economy with which he husbands his resources, are very remarkable, and might furnish a good example to the same class in our own country. As an instance of the mode in which he makes a little go a great way, it may be mentioned, that even from the rushes and reeds on the river banks he gains a meal for his cattle. When boiled, mixed with a little hay, and sprinkled with a little salt, they are much relished by the cows, who thrive upon them and yield abundance of milk. The island (rtf.) opposite to Whi¬ ch eren is Cadsand, memorable in the English expedition of 1809. Cadsand had been, at an earlier period, the scene of a glorious victory gained by the valiant Sir Walter Manny and Henry Plantagenet Earl of Derby, at the head of the chivalry of England, over a large body of Flemings, in the pay of Philip de Valois, King of France, in 1337. The English, effecting a land¬ ing in the face of the enemy, drove them from the sand-hills on which they were posted, and took, burned, and : razed the town. The cloth-yard shafts ! of the English archers did great exe¬ cution, and the personal prowess of the ! two leaders contributed not a little to the issue of the day. The first town which is perceived on the 1. of tho spectator, and rt; bank of the river, is (rtf.) Flushing (Dutch, Vlissingcn). Inns : Due de Wellington ; H. de Commerce. A fortified town of 11,000 Inhab., with Dockyard and Naval Arsenal: 2 large and deep canals, communicating with the sea, enable the largest merchant vessels to penetrate into the town, and unload their cargoes on the quays, close to tho warehouses. Along with Brill, it was handed over to Queen Elizabeth, as security for the subsidy and armed force sent over by her to assist the Dutch under Sir Philip Sidney. They were ealled “ cautionary towns.” It was bombarded and taken by the English, under Lord Chatham in 1809, when a great part of the town was destroyed, and 300 of the inhab. pe¬ rished. This unprofitable and cruel exploit was the sole result of the Walcheren expedition, the largest and best-equipped armament which ever left the shores of Britain, consisting of 37 ships of the line, 23 frigates, and 82 gun-boats, containing a force of 100,000 men, who might have carried Antwerp by a coup-de-main. Since then the works of Flushing have been greatly strengthened, and in com¬ bination with the Fort of Ramme- kens, lying to the E., and those of Breskens, on the opposite side of the Schelde (here from to 3 m. broad), completely command the entrance of the river. Admiral de Buffer was born here, the son of a rope-maker; a statue has been erected to him by his townsfolk. The fine Stadhuis (Town Hall), 2 churches, and more than 100 houses, were destroyed by the bombs and Con¬ greve rockets of the English. Within the walls there is nothing but the usual singularities of a Dutch town (§ 10) to excite the attention of a stranger, but at West Kappel the construction of tho dykes is seen in the greatest perfection. At this point there is a gap in the Dunes, and the country behind would be at ] 19 Belgium. route 18. —London to Antwerp. the mercy of the sea, were it not de¬ fended hy a dyke 4700 yds. long and 30 ft. high, upon the stability of which the safety of the whole island depends. [5 m, inland from Flushing (diligence every hour) is Middelburg , capital of Zealand. (/>m, Heerenlogement, not had.) 14,000 Inliab. A remarkably clean town, with a splendid Town Hall, built, 1468, by Charles the Bold, ornamented with 25 colossal statues of Counts and Countesses of Flanders. In the New Church is the monument of John and Cornelius Evertsen, admirals slain fighting against the English, 1666. The telescope was invented at Mid¬ delburg, in 1601, by one Ilans Lipper- shey, a spectacle-maker.] The climate of Walcheren is most un¬ healthy in spring and autumn, when even the natives are liable to ague, or a species of marsh fever called the koorts. This disease is far more fatal to stran¬ gers, as was proved by the deaths of 7000 English soldiers, who perished here during the disastrous and ill-con¬ trived expedition of 1809. The fever, however, is not contagious, and may be avoided by protecting the person with warm clothes against the sudden transi¬ tions of temperature, and by careful diet. Many of the inhabitants are very long-lived ; and the mortality among the English became so great from the circumstance of their arriving during the most unhealthy season, from their being exposed in tents to the night-air, and from their incautious consumption of green fruit. The distance from Flushing to Ant¬ werp up the river is reckoned to be about 62 m. The island next to AYal- cheren, forming the rt. bank of the river, is Zuid Beveland. On the 1. bank, but at some dis¬ tance off, is Biervliet, a small town, only deserving of mention because a native of this place, named William Beukels, invented in 1386 the art of curing herrings. A monument was erected in the church to him as a bene¬ factor to his country; and it is related that Charles Y., and his sister the Queen of Hungary, visited his tomb, out of respect to the memory of the fisherman to whom Holland owes a large part of her wealth. Biervliet was detached from the con¬ tinent by an inundation in 1377, which submerged 19 villages and nearly all their inhab. Hutch industry and per¬ severance have long since recovered every acre. (/.) Terneusen.—Hear this are the sluice-gates which close the entrance of the new canal extending to Ghent, which gives that city all the advantages of a seaport, as it is 16 ft. deep, and wide enough to admit vessels of very large burthen. It serves also as a drain to carry off the water from the district through which it passes. At Sas van Gend are sluices, by means of which the whole country can be laid under water. The artificial embankments on each side of the Schelde are protected against the current, and masses of floating ice brought down in winter, by piers and breakwaters of piles driven into the river bed, or by masonry brought from a considerable distance in the interior, principally from Namur. Below this both banks of the Schelde belong to Holland; but, after passing the termination of the island of Zuid Beveland, the river flows through Bel¬ gian territory. The strait or passage called Ivreek Bak, which separates Zuid Beveland from the main land, is commanded by the very strong Fort Batz, which lies on the limits of the Dutch territory. Bte. 13. On approaching Forts Lillo (rt.) and Liefkenshoek (L), the city of Antwerp j with its tall spire appears in sight, j These two strong works remained after the Belgic revolution in the hands of the Dutch down to 1839, when they were dismantled and given up to the Belgians in exchange for Yenloo in Limburg, and abandoned in conformity with the Treaty of the Quadruple Al¬ liance. They completely commanded the passage up and down the Schelde, which here puts on the appearance of a river; lower down it is more an arm of the sea, flowing between the islands of Zealand. The polders (§ 11) above Fort Lief- 120 ROUTE 18.—LONDON TO ANTWERP. THE SCHELDE. Sect. IT. ken shock, on the 1. bank, were laid i under water during the contest with the Dutch, by cutting the dykes, and down to 1838 an extensive tract of country remained in consequence de¬ solate and useless. 5 or 6 other forts are passed on either side of the river previous to arriving at Antwerp. Be¬ tween (7.) Calloo and (rt.) Oordam, in 1585, the Duke of Parma threw across the Schelde his celebrated bridge* 2400 ft. long, which, by closing the naviga¬ tion of the 3'ivcr, and preventing the arrival of supplies of provisions to the besieged city of Antwerp, mainly con¬ tributed to its surrender. The bridge was so strongly built that it resisted the floods and ice of winter; 97 pieces of cannon were mounted on it, 2 forts guarded its extremities, and a protect¬ ing fleet was stationed beside it to assist in repelling any attack. The besieged, who, at first, laughed to scorn the notion of rendering such a structure permanent, when they found that all communication with their friends was cut off by it, began to tremble for the result, and every effort was made by them to effect its destruction. One night, the Spaniards were surprised by the appearance of 3 blazing fires float¬ ing ' down the stream, and bearing directly towards the bridge. These were fire-ships invented by a Mantuan engineer (Gianibelli) then within the walls of Antwerp. The Prince of Parma rushed to the bridge to avert the threatening danger, and nearly lost his life; for one of the vessels, reaching its destination with great pre¬ cision, blew up with such tremendous force as to burst through the bridge in spite of its chains and cables, and de¬ molished one of the stockades which connected it with the shore. 800 Spanish soldiers were destroyed by the explosion, and Parma himself was struck down senseless by a beam. Had the Zealand fleet been at hand, as pro¬ posed, the city might have been re¬ lieved. Some untoward mistake pre¬ vented its co-operation at the right moment, and allowed the Spanish * See Motley’s inimitable description of the sieges in his * History of the United Nether¬ lands.’ general time to repair the damages, which, with his usual activity, he effected with incredible celerity. An¬ other attempt to destroy the bridge, by means of an enormous floating ma¬ chine called the “End of the War,” an unprophetic name, was entirely frus¬ trated by the vessel running aground ; and Antwerp, reduced by famine, was compelled to surrender. * In February, 1831, while hostilities were in progress between Holland and Belgium, one of the Dutch gunboats, in sailing up the Schelde during a heavy gale, twice missed stays. In spite of all the exertions of the crew, the vessel took the ground close under the guns of fort St. Laurent, below the town, and within a few yards of the docks. The helpless situation of the gunboat had been marked by crowds of Belgians from the shore; and the moment she was fast, a body of volunteers leaped on board, in haste to make a prize of the stranded vessel. The commander, a young officer named Yan Speyk, was called on, in a triumphant tone, to haul down his colours and surrender. He saw that all chance of rescue, and of successful resistance against unequal numbers, were alike vain ; but he had repeatedly before expressed his determination never to yield up his vessel, and he proved as good as his word. He rushed down to the powder magazine, and, falling on his knees to implore forgiveness of the Almighty for the crime of self-destruc¬ tion, he calmly laid a lighted cigar upon an open barrel of gimpowder. In a few moments the explosion took place ; and, while the vibration shook the whole city, the dauntless Yan Speyk, and all but 3 out of his crew of 31 men, were blown into the air. Yan Speyk was an orphan; he had been edu¬ cated at the public expense in an orphan house at Amsterdam: thus nobly did he repay his debt, and his country and king were not unmindful of him. A monument was set up to his memory by the side of that of Dc Buiter, and it was decreed that henceforth a vessel in the Dutch navy should always bear the name of Yan Speyk. Antwerp. See Bte. 22. Belgium. 121 ROUTE 19.- GHENT TO BRUSSELLS. EOUTE 19. GHENT TO BRUSSELS, BY ALOST.—RAIL. 5 trains daily, in 1 hr. 40 min. to 2 hrs. The Ghent-Mechlin Ely. (Ete. 21) is followed to Wetteren Junct. Stat., where the line to Termonde branches 1. Lede Stat. Alost Junct. Stat. (orAalst).— Inns ; II. Pays-Eas; Trois Eois. A town of 19,000 Inhab., on the Dender. The name sig¬ nifies “to the east,” i. e. of the Imperial province of Flanders, of which it was the frontier town in that direction. The Ch. of St. Martin is unfinished, and limited to choir, transept, and 3 hays of a nave erected 1498 after a fire ; it is very beautiful. The choir-stalls are by Geerts, of Louvain. In the chapel of St. Sebastian is the grave of Thierry Martins, a learned printer of Alost, d. 1534: his epitaph is by Eras¬ mus. Here is a celebrated ^picture, St. Eoch interceding with our Saviour to ap¬ pease the plague at Alost, by Rubens. It is one of his most sublime works, and was carried to Paris by the French. “ The composition is upon the same plan as that of St. Bavon at Ghent. The pic¬ ture is divided into two parts. The Saint and Christ are represented in the upper part, and the effects of the plague in the lower part of the picture. In [N. G.] this piece the grey is rather too predo¬ minant, and the figures have not that union with their ground which is ge¬ nerally so admirable in the works of Bubens. I suspect it has been in some picture-cleaner’s hands, whom I have often known to darken every part of the ground about the figure, in order to make the flesh look brighter and clearer, by which the general effect is de¬ stroyed.”— Sir J. R. Near the H. cle Yille, rebuilt by Boc- landt, is the ancient Maison de Commune , a fine Gothic edifice, founded in 1210; its tower and balcony in front date from 14S7. Alost is a great hop-market, and has considerable cloth manufactures. Chimes were introduced here 1460, earlier than in any other town of Bel¬ gium. [About 7 m. from Alost is Assche, a small town of 4000 Inhab., trading in flax and hops. “ A particular sort of cake is made here: the Flemish name of it has a marvellously uncouth appearance; it is suikerkoekjes; never¬ theless they are good cakes, and sold by Jodocus de Bischop, next door to the auberge La Tete de Boeuf.”— Southey.] Dendleeuw Junct. Stat. The line to Brussels proceeds by Ternath Stat. Brussels Stat. (See Ete. 23.) The line to Ath continues from Den- dleeuw Stat. by Ninove Stat .— Inn: H. de l’Etoile. Santbergen Stat. Grammont Stat, on the Dender; 8700 Inhab. No good Inn. [In a vault under the ch*. of Sottegham are buried Count Egmont Lamoral, beheaded by Alva, his wife, and his 2 sons, Here are some remains of his castle.] Lessines Stat.— Inn: Paon d’Or. Eebaix Stat. Ath Stat., in Ete. 15. 122 Sect. II. ROUTE 20 .— LONDON ROUTE 20. FROM LONDON OR DOVER TO OSTEND. Steamers from London (136 m.) in summer twice a-week. The average passage is 10 to 11 hrs., 5 of which are occupied in descending the Thames. Fares: chief cabin, 18s.; fore cabin, 14s. Between Dover and Ostend there are first-rate iron mail steamers, corre¬ sponding with trains from London Bridge and Victoria, morning and even¬ ing. They perform the voyage in 5 hrs. The distance is 63 m. Fares: chief cabin, 15s. ; fore cabin, 10s.; children half-price. Carriages, 2 wheels, 1?. 11s. 6du Regent, and de 1’Observatoire, be¬ tween the gates of Schaerbeck and d’An vers;—the* Botanic Garden , near the Porte de Schaerbeck, which is very prettily laid out, and is open to the public Tucs., Tliurs., Sat., from 10 to 3. Excursions. —a. to Laeken. A fiacre costs 5 fr. to go and return, provided it be not detained more than 2 hrs. Laeken is a rly. stat. (see p. 158). From the fields near Laeken is the best view of Brussels. b. The Excursion to Waterloo 124 m. from Brussels (see Rtc. 24) will oc¬ cupy about 8 hrs., allowing 3 hrs. for Belgium. [ route 23. —Brussels—excursions. 24. —to liege. 165 the horses to rest and for surveying the field. You should not start later than 9 a.m. The fare is too high, 7 fr. ; so it is better for a party to hire a coach. A carriage with 2 horses (voiturc de remise), to go and return, ought not to cost more than 20 fr., driver and turnpikes included. A vigi¬ lante (cab) may be hired for 10 fr. It is necessaiy to stipulate that you shall he taken to Mont St. Joan and Hougoumont; or, what is better, let the agreement he to convey you to any part of the field you please, otherwise you will he set down at the village of Waterloo, 2 m. short of the most in¬ teresting points in the field of battle, or he compelled to pay 2 or 3 fr. extra for going farther. The hire of a saddle- horse ought not to exceed 8 or 10 fr. The Grocnendacl Stat. of the Great Luxemburg My. (Btc. 29) is only 5 m. from Waterloo. You may go by an early train in the morning, and return by another in the afternoon, taking omnibus to and from the Field. The high road to Namur (Bte. 24) runs through Waterloo, and across the field of battle. Suffell runs stage-coaches daily from Brussels. Fare to Waterloo and back, 5 fr. It starts from H. dc Y Univers, Longue Hue Neuvc, at 9 and 10 a.m., and takes 15 or 1G passengers. It makes rather a short stay—so that the visit to the field is hurried. Those who would see it thoroughly and leisurely must hire a carriage for themselves. c. About G m. from Brussels, a little to the 1. of the road to Louvain, is the ■village church of Saventhem. It contains an admirable copy by Yandgck , of Bubens’ picture of St. Martin dividing bis cloak with the beggar, now at Windsor, which was re¬ stored to the church from the Louvre in 1817. Vandyek is reported to have fallen in love with a young girl of Saventhem, Anna van Option, and there to have lost his time and money in pursuit of his passion. To show his devotion to her, and to comply with her request, ho painted 2 pictures for the parish church—one, a Holy Family, in which he introduced portraits of his mistress and her parents; the other, this copy of St. Martin. lhe villagers have twice risen up to prevent the removal of this cherished work of art; first by a Dutch picture-dealer to whom it had been clandestinely sold by the priest, and again by the French. The Holy Family has gone no one knows whither. d. About 8 m. from Brussels is Tervueren (Inns: Le Benard and l’Empercur). Here there is a summer Palace of William II. King of Holland. It was the gift of the nation to him when Prince of Orange, in gratitude for his bravery at Waterloo. It is now occupied by the Duke of Brabant. Its extent is not great, and there arc no paintings of note in it, but it is very elegantly fitted up, with gardens in the Italian style around it. The Church, contains some tombs of the Dukes of Brabant. ROUTE 24. BRUSSELS TO LIEGE, BY WATERLOO AND NAMUR.—DESCENT OF THE MEUSE, NAMUR TO MAESTRICIIT. To Liege 1G posts = 78 Eng. m. The Great Luxemburg Bailway (Btc. 29) passes within 5 m. of Water¬ loo at Grocnendacl Stat. Omnibuses thence in 1 hr. to Mt. St. Jean. The quickest way to Liege is by the Railroad through Louvain (Btc. 2G). ■ Suffell’s English Stage-coaches go daily to Waterloo; Diligence to Nivclles. 166 ROUTE 24. —WATERLOO. Sect. II. Near the village of Ixelles a good view of Brussels and of the country far and wide is obtained, on which account it is a crowded place of resort with the citizens upon Sundays. About 2 m. from Brussels the road enters or skirts the Forest of Soigne , or Soignies , now much curtailed and partly converted into cornfields. Byron, by a poetical licence, has identified it with the ancient Forest of Ardennes. The march of the British troops through it, on their way to the battle, is described by him in these beautiful lines:— “ Ardennes waves above them her green leaves, Dewy with nature’s tear-drops, as they pass, Grieving, if aught inanimate e’er grieves. Over the unreturning brave,—alas! Ere evening to be trodden like the grass Which now beneath them, but above shall grovv In its next verdure, when this fiery mass Of living valour, rolling on the foe, And burning with high hope, shall moulder cold and low.” The forest is about 9 m. long and 7^- broad. 2 Waterloo. — Inn : II. de Y Ar- genteuil. This village, on the outskirts of the forest, about 10 m. from Brussels, was the head-quarters of the English army on the days before and following the battle to ivliich it has given its name (June 17 and 19, 1815). The Duke’s quarters were in the Post-house opposite the church. Here, after 16 hrs. in the saddle, he dismounted from his faithful steed Copenhagen (long afterwards a pensioner in the paddocks of Stratfieldsayc), and the spirited ani¬ mal, conscious of the termination of his labours, is stated to have kicked out in a manner which had nearly proved fatal to his rider. The moment a traveller conies in sight of Waterloo he will he assailed by guides and relic-venders, claiming the honour of serving him in the capa¬ city of guide. The only mode of ap¬ peasing the clamours, and rescuing him¬ self from the annoyance, is to fix upon one or other, informing him at the same time what will he his remuneration. 3 or 4 francs will he enough for his services over the whole field; hut if this he not settled beforehand, he will not hesitate to demand at least double. English travellers seeking a guide to the Field may safely resort to Serjt. Mun- day, late of the 7th Hussars, who lives half way between the village and the Field of Waterloo. lie may also he heard of at the Waterloo Museum , formed by the late Serjt. Cotton opposite the Hotel du Musee, at the Mound of the Lion, which contains some really in¬ teresting objects. He is far superior to any of the Belgian peasant guides, who bribe the coachman to recommend them. The little Church and churchyard of Waterloo are crowded with memorials of English officers: they contain nearly 30 tablets and monuments to those who fell. “ Many a wounded Brifon there was laid. With such poor help as time might then allow From the fresh carnage of the field convey’d ; And they whom human succours could notsave Here in its precincts found a hasty grave. And here on marble tablets set on high, In English lines by foreign workmen trac’d, Are names familiar to an English eye ; Their brethren here the fit memorials plac'd, Whose unadorn’d inscriptions brietly tell Their gallant comrades’ rank, and where they fell.” Southey. Among the curiosities of Waterloo, to the examination of which the most strenuous persuasion is used to invito the passing stranger, is the grave of the late Marquis of Anglesea’sleg, the house in which it was cut off, arid where the hoot belonging to it is preserved! The owner of the house to whose share this relic has fallen finds it a most lucrative source of revenue, and will, in spite of the absurdity of the thing, probably bequeath it to his children as a valuable property. He has interred the leg most decorously within a coffin, under a weeping willow, and has honoured it with a monmnent and an epitaph. Waterloo is now nearly joined to Mont St. Jean , a long straggling village (the Hotels are decent little Inns), though once almost a mile from it, and lying on the edge of the field of battle. Here the road divides: the branch on the rt. leads to Nivelles; the other, continuing straight on, is the high road to Genappe and Namin’. Travellers ought not to leave their Belgium , ROUTE 24.— WATERLOO 167 168 ROUTE 24. —WATERLOO. Sect. II. carriage at Waterloo, or even at Mont 1 St. Jcan, as it is still a mile short of the centre of the field, and this mile will considerably increase the long walk which they must at any rate take in order to see the ground to advantage. It is more prudent to drive on to Hou- goumont, 1^ m. Leaving the village of Mont St. J can, the road reaches an open country, almost entirely without trees; it ascends a gentle rise, and passes the large farm¬ house with offices called Ferme de Mont St. Jean, which during the battle was filled with wounded British, and served as a sort of hospital. The Mound sur¬ mounted by the Belgic Lion , by far the most conspicuous object in the field of Waterloo, now appears in sight. It marks the spot which may he consi¬ dered the centre of the conflict. The field had been examined by the Duke of Wellington in the previous year. In a 1 Memorandum on the de¬ fence of the frontier of the Netherlands ,’ addressed to Lord Bathurst, 22nd Sept. 1814, he says, “About Nivelle, and between that and Binch, there are many advantageous positions for an army, and the entrance to the foret de Soignies by the high road which leads to Brussels from Binch, Charleroi, and Namur, would, if worked upon, afford others.” —Despatches , xii. 129. Though not a strong position, it was the best between Quatro Bras and Brussels available for the protection of that capital. On arriving at the end of this ascent, the traveller finds himself on the brow of a hill or ridge extending on the rt. and 1. of the road, with a gentle hol¬ low or shallow valley before him, and another ascent and nearly correspond¬ ing ridge beyond it. Along the ridge on which he stands the British army was posted, while the position of the French was along the opposite heights. The road on which we are travelling intersected the 2 armies, or, so to speak, separated the 1. wing of the British and rt. wing of the French from the main bodies of their respective armies. To render the declivity more gradual, the road has been cut through the crest of the ridge several feet deep, so as to form a sort of hollow way. At this point 2 Monuments have been erected close to the roadside; that on the right ( 4 in the plan), a pillar to the memory of Col. Gordon, bearing a most touching epi¬ taph, well worth perusal; that on the left ( 5 ), an obelisk in honour of the Hanoverian officers of the German Legion who fell on the spot. Hereabouts the high road is traversed nearly at right angles by a small country cross-road. During the first part of the action the Duke of Welling¬ ton stood in the angle formed by the crossing of these 2 roads, and on the rt. of the highway, at a little distance from a solitary elm (‘ in the plan), called the Wellington Tree, from an unfounded report that the Duke had placed himself beneath it during the action. The Duke knew better than to post himself and his staff close to an object which must inevitably serve as a mark for the enemy to fire at. Upon the strength of this story, however, the elm, after being mutilated and stripped by relic-hunters, was cut down and sold, some time after the battle, to an Englishman. About half-way down in the hollow which separated the 2 armies, and in which the most bloody combats took place, is the Farm of La Ilaye Sainte ( 6 ) close to' the roadside on the rt. It was occupied by the soldiers of the German Legion, and gallantly defended till their ammunition was exhausted, when they were literally cut to pieces : the French “ got possession of it about 2 o’clock, from a circumstance which is to be attributed to the neglect of the officer commanding on the spot, and were never removed from thence till I commenced the attack in the evening ; but they never advanced further on that side.”— Despatches , xii. 610. A terrible carnage took place in the house and garden, and the building was riddled with shot. Close to this house a spot is shown as the grave of Shaw the valorous Life- guardsman, who killed 9 Frenchmen with his own hand in the battle. Not far off, on the opposite side of the road, a vast accumulation of bodies of men, intermixed with horses, were buried in I one common grave. It was near this ROUTE 24. -WATERLOO. Belgium. spot that the hrave General Picton -was killed, and Colonel Ponsonby wounded. 5 Scotch regiments were engaged in this part of the fight. If we now proceed across the valley and up the opposite slope, we reach the farm of La Belle Alliance , a solitary white house, on the 1. of the road (7), now a poor public-house. It was occu¬ pied by the French, whose lines were drawn up close behind it; though towards the end of the engagement Napoleon in person marshalled his im¬ perial guards in front of it for the final charge. Napoleon’s place of observa¬ tion during a great part of the battle was nearly on a line with La Belle Alliance, at some distance on the rt. of the road. The Prussians have erected a cast-iron monument ( 9 ) at a short dis¬ tance on the left, in memory of their fellow-countrymen who fell here. Their loss in the battle amounted to nearly 7000 ; it occurred chiefly in the vicinity of Planehcnoit, a village on the 1. of the road, beyond La Belle Alliance, which was stormed and retaken 3 times. It has been erroneously stated that Blucher met the Duke after the battle at La Belle Alliance; but the fact is, that he did not overtake the Duke till he was 2 m. beyond the field, at Maison Rouge, or Maison du Roi, on the road to Genappe, at 10 p.m. Here, the Duke gave orders for the halt of his troops. In spite of the fatigues of the day, he had pursued the French in person till long after dark ; and when Colonel Harvey, who accompanied him, pointed out the danger he ran of being fired at by stragglers from behind the hedges, he exclaimed, “Let them fire away: the victory is gained, and my life is of no value now.” Gros Caillou (*°), a farm-house in which Napoleon slept, was burnt in consequence by the Prussians next day. The foregoing enumeration of the various localities of the field has been made in the order in which a traveller would pass them in following the high road from Brussels. If intend to turn aside and examine the field more minutely, the following description may assist him:— [N.G.] 169 The Mound of the Belgic Lion ( 2 ) is by far the best station for surveying the field. At its base is the Museum of the late Sergt.-Major Cotton, and the Hotel. It is a vast tumulus, 200 ft. high, beneath which the bones of friends and foes lie heaped indiscriminately together. A flight of steps leads up to the top. The lion was cast by Cockerill of Liege, and is intended to stand on the spot where the Prince of Orange was wounded. “ The mound and the lion have equally been the subject of ill-natured censures, but would appear appropriate enough, since they serve at once as a memorial, a trophy, and a tomb.”— Family Tour. The present appearance of the field differs considerably from what it was at the time of the battle, owing to the exca¬ vation made along the front of the British position, to obtain earth for this arti¬ ficial mound. The ridge of Mont St. Jean has been considerably reduced in height; and the spot where the Duke of Wellington stood is quite cut away ; the ground near being lowered several feet by the removal of the earth. From the top of the Mound it will be perceived that the ground is a per¬ fectly open and undulating plain. The British force was disposed in 2 lines along one of these undulations: the foremost line occupied the brow of the eminence, and was partly protected by a hedge , running from Mont St. Jean to Ohain, Avhich gave the name to the farm of La Haye Sainte ( 6 ); the second stood a little way behind, on the re¬ verse of the slope, so as to be partly sheltered from the enemy’s fire. The British were separated by the shallow valley above mentioned—varying from 500 to 800 yards in breadth—from the French, who were posted on the oppo¬ site ridge. The situation of both armies was in many parts within point blank range of their opponents’ artillery. The position of the British from rt. to 1. did not much exceed a mile and a half,—“ small theatre for such a tra¬ gedy ;” yet on this limited front did its commander place and manoeuvre an army of 54,000 men, a remarkable in¬ stance of concentration of force. It I 170 ROUTE 24. —WATERLOO. Sect. IT. was drawn up in a sort of curve, to suit the ground along the heights, and the rt. wing extended as far as Merbe Braine. The rt. flank of the centre stood 400 yards behind the house of Hougoumont ( 3 ), which was very strongly occupied ; the 1. of the centre was posted at a considerable distance behind the farm-house of La Haye Sainte ( 6 ), which stood nearly midway between the 2 armies, and was also occupied and fortified as well as its small size and the time would admit. The distance between the 2 farms of Hougoumont and La Haye Sainte is 1300 yards. The French columns could not pass between them without being exposed to a flank fire, nor did Napo¬ leon think it prudent to leave 2 such posts in his rear in the possession of his enemy; and his first efforts, previous to advancing against the English line, were to make himself master of them. " The British army remained during the whole day firm in its position; and, formed into squares, received on this ridge , in front, and on each side of the ground now occupied by the Mound, the furious charges of the French cavalry, who were on the plateau be¬ tween the 2 high roads nearly f hr., all firing having ceased on both sides. At the time of the appearance of the Prussians not a square had been broken or shaken; the British had not swerved an inch backwards, hut were rather in advance of their first position. The Duke says, 'writing to Lord Beresford, July 2, 1815, “Napoleon did not ma¬ noeuvre at all. He just moved for¬ ward in the old style in columns, and was driven off in the old style. The only difference was, that he mixed cavalry with his infantry, and sup¬ ported both with an enormous quantity of artillery. I had the infantry for some time in squares, and we had the French cavalry walking about as if they had been our own. I never saw the British infantry behave so well.” Far on the 1., in the direction of "SVavre, are seen the woods through which the Prussians first advanced to the battle. The Chateau of Hougoumont or Gou- mo7it ( 3 ), about 3| nr. from "Waterloo ch., l^m. from Mont St. Jean, and 4 m. from La Haye Sainte, is decid¬ edly the most interesting spot in the field of Waterloo, not only for its importance in the history of the bat¬ tle, hut because it still exhibits marks of the dreadful conflict. It formed, in fact, the key of the British position, and the possession of it would have enabled Napoleon to turn the English flank. It was on this account that he directed his utmost efforts towards it. At least 12,000 men, commanded by his brother Jerome, were brought at dif¬ ferent times against it, and the fierce attacks continued with hardly any in¬ termission during the whole of the day. It was an old-fashioned Flemish cha¬ teau, with walled gardens and farm offices attached to it. Had these build¬ ings been formed for a fortress to resist the kind of assault which they endured, they could scarcely have possessed greater advantages; being surrounded on all sides by strong walls, which the Duke himself caused to he further for¬ tified by breaking loopholes in them, through which the garrison, if it may he so called, directed the fire of their musketry. But, notwithstanding its strength, so furious were the attacks, and so disproportion ably great the num¬ ber of assailants, that it could not pos¬ sibly have held out, but for the bravery of the troops by whom it was main¬ tained. The wood, orchard, and kitchen- garden were several times in the pos¬ session of the French, hut they never succeeded in forcing the walled enclo¬ sures which surrounded the house. This little citadel, though set on fire by the howitzers and almost gutted by the flames, was maintained to the last by the Coldstream Guards. At the beginning of the battle the house stood in the centre of a wood; but the trees were so mutilated by can¬ non-shot during the action, that few remain. The old house set on fire by French shells has been entirely re¬ moved, and a new one occupies its place; some of the outhouses, how¬ ever, still, exhibit a shattered and patched-up appearance; and the walls of the orchard retain the loopholes formed by the English; whilst on the ROUTE 24. -WATERLOO. Belgium. outside they present a broken surface crumbling to tbe touch, from the effect of the French musketry so long and vainly directed against them. “ The Bel¬ gian yeoman’s garden wall was the safe¬ guard of Europe, whose destinies hung on the possession of this house.” In the little chapel is shown a crucifix, saved (as the peasants say) by miracle from the flames, which, after destroying all about it, stopped on reaching the foot of the cross. Though it is not intended to give a history of the fight, the following addi- tionaf facts will not he inappropriately introduced here:—the force which Na¬ poleon brought into the field amounted, by his own confession, to nearly 75,000 men : 54,000 men composed the whole of the Duke of Wellington’s army ac¬ tually engaged; of these only 32,000 were British or of the German Legion. It has been often asserted that the Duke of Wellington was taken by surprise at Waterloo, and that he first heard the news of the advance of the French in a ball-room. This is not the fact: the intelligence was brought to the Duke on June 15, by the Prince of Orange, who found him within 100 yards of his quarters in the park at Brussels, about 3 o’clock; and by 5 the same evening orders had been sent to all the divisions of the British army to break up their cantonments, and move on the 1. of Quatre Bras. A proposal was made to put off the ball intended to be given by the Duchess of Richmond that evening at Brussels; but it was thought better to let it proceed, and thus to keep the inhabitants in ignorance of the course of events: the Duke therefore desired his principal officers to be pre¬ sent, but to take care to quit the ball¬ room as soon after 10 as possible: he himself stayed till 12, and set off for the army at 6 next morning. On the morn¬ ing of the 16th, the Duke, having finished the disposition of his forces, rode across the country to Blucher, at Ligny, being unwilling to trust to any one the important point of concerting measures for the co-operation of the Prussians. Blucher then promised to support him with 2 divisions of his army, in case Napoleon should direct 171 his principal attack against the British. This fact is important, and not generally known. Another common error respect¬ ing this battle is, that the British were on the point of being defeated when the Prussians arrived: this is sufficiently refuted by the testimony of the Prussian general, Muffling, who expressly says that “ the battle could have afforded no favourable result to the enemy, even if the Prussians had never come up.” The Prussian army was expected to join the British at 2, but it appears from Bliicher’s despatch that it washalf-past 4 before a gun was fired by them, and that it was half-past 7 before they were in sufficient force to make any impres¬ sion on the French rt. At that hour Napoleon had exhausted his means of attack. He had no force in reserve but the 4 battalions of the Old Guard. These gave way on the advance of the British line. The story of the Duke’s having thrown himself into the middle of a square of infantry during the charges of the French cavalry is also a pure fiction. The fertility of the ground on which the battle was fought increased greatly for several years after it took place. Nowhere were richer crops produced in the whole of Belgium, and the corn is said to have waved thickest, and to have been of a darker colour, over those spots where the dead were interred, so that in spring it was possible to dis¬ cover them by this mark alone. “ But when I stood beneath the fresh green tree, Which living waves where thou didst cease to live. And saw around me the wide fields revive With fruits and fertile promise, and the Spring Come forth her work of gladness to contrive, With all her reckless birds upon the wing, I turn'd from all she brought to those she could not bring.” Byron. “ Was it a soothing or a mournful thought, Amid this scene of slaughter as we stood, Where armies had with recent fury fought, To mark how gentle Nature still pursued Her quiet course, as if she took no care For what her noblest work had suffer’d there?” Southey. The stranger arriving at Waterloo is commonly set upon by a numerous horde of relie-huuters, who bother him I 2 172 ROUTE 24. —WATERLOO TO to buy buttons and bullets. The fur- j rows of tlie plough during many suc¬ ceeding springs laid bare numberless 1 melancholy memorials of the fight— half-consumed rags, bullets corroded and shattered, fragments of accoutre¬ ments, bones and skulls ; but when the real articles failed, the vendors were at no loss to invent others ; so that there is little fear of the supply being ex¬ hausted. Beggars, too, a most perse¬ vering class of tormentors, beset every path, in many instances apparently without the pretext of poverty. In 1705 the Duke of Marlborough was within an inch of fighting the French nearly on the same ground as Wellington. His head-quarters were at Frischermont, and the French were posted across the Brussels road. He was thwarted, however, by the pig¬ headed obstinacy or cowardice of the Dutch commissioners who accompanied his army. Waterloo to Namur. The part of Belgium through which our route lies has been called the “Cockpit” of Europe, and has been for ages the ground upon which the powers of Europe have decided their quarrels. Besides the fields of Water¬ loo and Qnatrc Bras, through which the road passes, Wavre, Fleurus, Ligny, and the little village of Bamillies, where Marlborough gained one of his most fa¬ mous victories over the French and Bava¬ rians, lie within the province of Brabant, or only a short distance off our road. 15 Genappe Stat.— Inn : Hotel Marti- neau, indifferent, 17 m. from Brussels: 1800 Inhab. It was on the road, a little way out of the town, that the Prus¬ sians captured the carriage of Napoleon, and nearly took him prisoner in it, on the night after the battle. [A Railway from Louvain and Wavre i by Genappe to Nivellcs and Manage here crosses our road. rt. Nivclles is 11 m. distant [Fan : Couronne), a town of 7844 Inhab. The Ch. of St. Ger¬ trude, consecrated 1048, is a very noble edifice of Romanesque architec¬ ture, externally unaltered. It pos¬ sesses the relics of St. Gertrude, daugh¬ ter of Pepin, Maire du Palais, in an NAMUR. QUATRE BRAS. Sect. II. I elaborate shrine in the form of a church, with all the most minute Gothic details, 1 of metal gilt. It is placed over the high altar. Also two pulpits carved by Delvaux; one, of wood, represents Elijah in the Desert; the other, of marble, the Good Samaritan. Under the massive W. tower is a fine crypt of Romanesque style, much resorted to by pilgrims to St. Gertrude’s shrine, who squeeze themselves through between one of the pillars and the wall, as a cure for illness. This practice arises from a legend that St. Gertrude, when pursued by a prince, who sought her in marriage, escaped from his impor¬ tunities through a gap in a wall, in order to preserve her vow of perpetual virginity. The smaller tower of the church contains the chimes : the hours are struck by a colossal figure of an armed knight known as Jean de Ni- velles. The cloister adjoining the church appears from its style to be of the 1 1th or 1 2th cent. The chapter con¬ sisted of 36 canons and 42 canonesses; but the whole community was under the rule of the abbess, whose qualifica¬ tion for election depended on a descent which could show arms with 16 quar- terings: the Dukes of Brabant soon encroached on their authority and pri¬ vileges.] Between Quatre Bras and Nivelles is the estate presented by the King of the Netherlands to the Duke of Wel¬ lington, in gratitude for his great services. [3 m. E. of Genappe, on the rail from Louvain via Ottignies to Charleroi, is the extensive Abbey of Villers in ruins. (See Rte. 33.) About 1 ^- m. from Genappe is the village of Baisy, where Godfrey of Bouillon, the leader of the first crusade, was born, 1129.] Nearly 3 m. from Genappe our road passes Quatre Bras , so called because 4 roads, from Brussels, Charleroi, Ni¬ velles, and Namur, meet at this spot. An ingenious innkeeper of the place has discovered a different meaning for Quatre Bras, and kindly translates it, for the benefit of the English, by the words “ Three Legs!” Here was fought that “desperate battle”— W., in which the brave Duke of Brunswick fell, at ROUTE 24. —NAMUR. 173 Belgium. the head of his devoted black hand (June 16, 1815). This position was highly important to the Duke of Wel¬ lington, as being the key of all the roads in the neighbourhood. He commanded in person during the engagement, and repulsed Marshal Ney, enabling the British to retire at leisure upon Waterloo, a step which had been ren¬ dered necessary by Bliicher’s defeat at Ligny, in the face of the superior cavalry of Napoleon. The Duke was at one mo¬ ment surrounded and nearly made pri¬ soner in the farm-house which stands in the N.E. angle of the 4 roads, by an unexpected charge of French cavalry, who dispersed 2 regiments of the allies, but were in their turn driven back by the English infantry, and none of the foremost of the pursuers were allowed to escape. The road which continues to the S. leads through Gosselies to Charleroi, 2 ~ posts from Genappe: that which bears to the S.E. leads to 2 Sombreffe. 4 m. S.W. lies Fleur us, and 2 m. further Ligny—both scenes of victories gained by the French. (See Rte. 33.) The road is uninteresting until, after crossing a small stream, it reaches the height overhanging Namur, which com¬ mands a fine view of its rock-built citadel and the valley of the Meuse. 2^ Namur Stat. (Inns : H. de IIol- lande ; II. de Harscamp, first rate ; H. Bellevue—all 3 good.) Namur is the capital of the province of Namur, and a strong fortress, with 25,900 Inhab., pic¬ turesquely placed at the junction of the Sambre and Meuse. It was capital of the Atuatici. Csesar (B. G. 2, 29) well describes its situation, and its capture by him. Owing to its numerous sieges and bombardments, it possesses few old buildings, except the belfry tower, of the end of 14th cent., and it has scarcely any objects of interest, unless perhaps the traveller, calling to mind “ my uncle Toby,” be induced to pay a visit to Porte St. Nicholas , at the S.E. angle of the ramparts. Namur was taken by Louis XIV. in 1692. Racine has written an account of the siege, and Boileau celebrated its capture in a worthless ode; it was retaken by the English under William III. from the French, after a siege of 10 weeks, in 1695. It was in this memorable siege that “my uncle Toby ” was supposed to be engaged. The Cathedral of St. Aubain, one of the handsomest modern churches in Belgium, with a Corinthian facade, was finished in 1766. Behind the high altar is the mausoleum of Don John of Austria, the conqueror at Lepanto, who died in the camp at Bouges, a mile from Namur, in 1578, not without suspicion of poison from the jealous}^ of his brother Philip II. It was raised by Alex. Farnese, Prince of Parma. On the rt. of the altar is a monument to Bishop Pisani, by a sculptor of Ghent, 1829. A pulpit, erected in 1848, from the designs of Gcerts, of Louvain, deserves notice. Beneath the pulpit is a group representing the Virgin guarding the City of Namur from the Demon of Pestilence. A The Ch. of St. Loup, built by the Jesuits, 17th cent., is highly enriched internally with marble. It has a roof elaborately carved in stone by a brother of the order. In a Museum, established 1857, is a large and interesting collection of glass, pottery, and objects in bronze, gold, bone, &c., found in several Roman and Gallo-Roman cemeteries near Namur. In the Convent of the Sceurs de Notre Dame is a valuable collection of Church Plate , &c. ; a reliquary (1220), gilt, with niello figures of the Virgin, St. Lambert, &c., containing a rib of St. Peter ; the Gospel, in a binding of silver, with hunting scenes and filigree work; a Chalice ; a portable Altar-cover, with niellos and enamels; a Crucifix of Greek work, with 8 medallions; an abbot’s staff; several mitres, &c. &c. Works of Father Hugo d’Oignies : this treasure is not easily seen. The situation of Namur is most beautiful, and the best view is from the heights occupied by the commanding Citadel, rising between the Sambre and Meuse. The view can be seen with¬ out entering, for which an order of admission must be obtained from the commandant in the town. Namur and Huy arc among the number of for¬ tresses greatly strengthened after the 174 ROUTE 24 . -NAMUR. THE MEUSE. Sect. II. war, under the inspection of the Duke of Wellington, and partly at the ex¬ pense of Great Britain. They form part of the great harrier on the side of France; the work of centuries to erect, at the cost of vast sums of money, and as vast an expenditure of blood. Namur is the Belgian Sheffield;— its cutlery is celebrated. The mines of coal, iron, and marble, situated in the neighbourhood, give employment to an industrious population. The crawfish of the Meuse are celebrated, and the trout of the Sambre not to be despised. A dam of masonry is thrown across the Sambre at Namur, with the view of rendering it navigable. Namur has a bridge over the Sambre, and 2 (one for the Rly.) over the Meuse. From the rt. bank of the river the view of Namur, and its lofty citadel standing on a high promontory, at whose foot the 2 rivers unite, is very picturesque. 2 towers of the old castle still remain on the height above Rue Notre Dame. 3 m. from Namur is the Eremi- tage do la Montague, cut in the rock by Carmelite monks. The valley of the Meuse above Namur, towards Di- nant (Rte. 30), is even more picturesque than below the town. Steamer to Di- nant daily. Railroads to Charleroi (Rtes. 28 and 30). To Arlon, Luxemburg, and Treves (Rte. 29). To Dinant. Railroad to Liege , 384 m. opened 1850. Cost about 1,200,000^., chiefly of British capital. It is a fine work; the en¬ gineer is G. Rennie, Esq. It runs close to the river nearly the whole way, and on the 1. bank. The length is 381 Eng. m. Trains run in 2 hrs., but much of the beauty of the scenery is lost in a train. Far better to descend in the steamboat. The Namur station is outside the Porte de Fer. Steamers, liable to be stopped at some seasons, ply on the Meuse, between Namur and Liege. They take 4 hrs. from Namur to Liege, 6 or 7 hrs. to ascend. It may be worth while to hire a boat and drop down the stream for short distances, as the banks of the Meuse are imperfectly seen from the railway. The banks of the Meuse between Na¬ mur and Liege are hardly surpassed in beauty by any river scenery in N. Europe: rock, wood, and water have I done their utmost, yet the scenery is not | properly mountainous. The Meuse has been compared to the Wye ; but is even more romantic than the English river. “What lovelier home could gentle fancy choose ? Is this the stream whose cities, heights, and plains, War’s favourite playground, are with crimson stains Familiar as the morn with pearly dews? The morn, that now, along the silver Meuse, Spreading her peaceful ensigns, calls the swains To tend their silent boats and ringing wains, Or strip the bough whose mellow fruit bestrews The ripening corn beneath it. As mine eyes Turn from the fortified and threatening hill, How sweet the prospect of yon w atery glade, j With its grey rocks clustering in pensive shade, That, shaped like old monastic turrets, rise From the smooth meadow'-ground, serene and Still! ” WOKDSVVOHTH. The Meuse affords a pleasing mix¬ ture of cultivation and wildness, of ac¬ tive industry and quiet nature, smoking steam-engines and naked and abrupt cliffs of limestone, ruined castles and flourishing villages, with huge many- windowed mills and factories, which give an agreeable variety to the road. The district swarms with population all the way to Liege, and the soil is in the highest state of culture; the lower grounds occupied by the richest corn¬ fields and hop-grounds, or the most verdant meadows. These, with the winding river flowing between them, form the features of a most beautiful landscape. The numerous quarries in the limestone cliff along the river banks afford a very excellent marble, which is cut into blocks, and sent down the river to Holland, where it is used for flag-stones, and even for finer purposes. On the banks are seen the red stains of the earth which furnishes alum to numerous works; also heaps of iron ore, and zinc (calamine). rt. Not far from Namur the chateau of Brumagne is passed, and (/.) beneath some romantic and precipitous cliffs,— /. 8^ Marche les Dames Stat., the mansion of the Due d’Arembcrg, close to some iron-works. It occupies the site of an abbey founded, in 1101, by 139 noble ladies, whose husbands had 175 ROUTE 24. —IIUY. ENGIS. Belgium. gone to the crusade along with Godfrey of Bouillon. 1. 2j Nameche Stat., a pretty village, shrouded hy orchards. Zinc and lead works (Sart Co.). rt. Schlayen. — The neighbourhood abounds in coal-mines. A tunnel. 1. Seilles Stat., a straggling village, with marble quarries and limekilns, is the stat. for l. Andenne (an iron bridge leads across to this town on the rt. bank), a manufacturing place, having potteries ; a paper-mill, sending large supplies to England since 1860 ; cotton-mill, &c. Clay for tobacco-pipes is exported hence to Holland. 6312 Inhab. 1. 6'f Bas Oha Stat., a restored castle. The culture of the vine begins here, hut it produces a poor wine. rt. On the heights are the ruins of Beaufort Castle, ruined hy the Hutois, 1429. Before reaching Huy Stat., the railway is carried through a tunnel, in order to avoid a bend of the river: some fine scenery is thus shut out of view. rt. 3f Huy (pronounced We) Station. Inn: Poste, at the water-side, table- d’hote at 1. This town and fortress, with 10,600 Inhab., is romantically situated on the Meuse, which divides it, and is traversed hy an ancient stone bridge. It was anciently capital of the district named Condroz, from the Condrusii, to whom Caesar alludes. Here the Meuse is joined by the little river Hoyoux, the scenery of which, for many miles above the junction, is very picturesque. Near Huy is the cul¬ minating point of the beauties of the scenery of the Meuse. The Citadel , repaired and strengthened on the most approved plans of modern fortification, under the direction of skilful English engineers, since 1815, commands the passage up and down the valley of the Meuse. The works are partly excavated in the solid rock, and high walls of most massive masonry have been added to the natural precipices on which it stands. Strangers are allowed to see the fortifications. The Collegiate Ch. of Notre Dame, founded hy St. Maternus, situated under the citadel, is approached on the S, side by a detached gateway, surmounted with sculptures in relief, from the life of the Virgin. The date of the present church is 1311-77; the interior is of a graceful style of Gothic, 82 ft. high. The tower at W., crowned hy an open spire, is pierced with a fine rose window. In the sacristy are 4 remarkable shrines —goldsmiths’ work of the 11th and 12th centys. In one of the suburbs stood the abbey of Neufmoustier (i. e. Novum Monas- terium), founded hy Peter the Hermit, on his return from the first Crusade and the capture of Jerusalem, (d. 1115), who was himself buried in it. His remains and monument were re¬ moved to Rome in 1634: part of the cloisters remain; the church is gone. The site is in the property of M. Godin, the paper manufacturer, who has raised a monument over the Hermit’s burial- place—a cruciform vault in the present garden. Neufmoustier was one of the 17 convents which existed here, together with 14 parish churches, while the town was under the dominion of the Prince Bishop of Liege, though the total popu¬ lation at the time did not exceed 5000! The view looking back on Huy is not surpassed in Belgium. The hills be¬ low are less lofty and precipitous than above Huy. Zinc and calamine works of considerable magnitude may be seen in full activity near (1.) Ampsin Stat., and at other places along the valley, particularly on the Liege side of Huy. They are marked by the red stains of the refuse along the banks. 1. Corphalie, an extensive zinc ma¬ nufactory ; there are mines of calamine near this. rt. Chateau de Neufville, in the old French style, with 2 turrets. 85 Amay Stat. 1. The stately old abbey of Flono, a red brick building. Here arc zinc and lead furnaces of “ the Vieille Montagne Company.” At Engis Stat., close to the railroad, there are alum-works. At Engis is a cave in which a human skull and other hones have been found, along with a tooth of a mammoth, much relied on by geologists to prove the antiquity of man. Is it not probable that man was 176 ROUTE 24 . —CHOKIER. SERAING. LIEGE. Sect. II. the instrument for extirpating the mammoth ? There are other bone-caves at Enghehoul and Chokier. 1. Chokier Stat. ; on a high preci¬ pitous rock rises the Chateau of Chokier , an old building, with a modern front, of Italian architecture, surmounted by a red tower. It is the cradle of the family Surlet de Choquier, one of whom was Regent of Belgium before the election of King Leopold. It was once taken and burnt by the Huitois. The scarped rock is skirted by the railway. Hereabouts the Meuse passes from the limestone into the coal formation—into a region of steam-engines, smoking- chimneys, and furnaces. 1. At Flemalle Stat. the rly. divides ; passenger trains continue along the 1. hank of the Meuse, and join the Mechlin and Aix-la-Chapelle Station (Guillemins) on the 1. bank. [The rt. branch of the railway which runs into Liege, Stat. of Longdoz, after skirting the great iron-works, crosses the Meuse on a bridge of 5 arches, 82 ft. span. Opposite, rt., isVal St. Lambert, where are the largest glass-works on the Con¬ tinent. 11 m. lower down is rt. 4A Seraing Stat. (H. de la Bruy ere), a populous village, stretching nearly a mile along the bank of the Meuse, and occupied by workmen, connected by a handsome suspension bridge thrown over the Meuse with (1.) Jemeppe Stat. It is a focus of industry, iron furnaces, forges, and coal mines; the chief being the esta¬ blishment formed by the late John Cockerill, 1816, perhaps the largest manufactory of machinery in the world. It occupies the former Palace of the Prince Bishops of Liege, which now serves but as the facade or vestibule of the other constructions since added to fit it for its present purpose, ex¬ tending ~ m. back from the river, over the space once the Episcopal gar¬ dens, now blackened with coal and piled up with iron. Amidst the smoko and flames issuing from its 40 or 50 tall chimneys, its palatial and ecclesi¬ astical character have alike nearly dis¬ appeared. The vast pile of building forms a little town of itself; iron and coal are extracted from mines within : its walls, which also enclose a canal and railroad leading down to the river, 4 blast furnaces, 15 puddling furnaces, rolling-mills, and forges, where iron is wrought into articles of all sorts from penknives up to steam-engines and locomotives, inferior only to those made I in England. A locomotive costs 37,500 fr. The Lion, on the field of Waterloo, ! was cast here. 20,000 souls form the present population of Seraing. Here are numerous steam-engines, of say 2500-horse power. Mr. Cockerill was originally in partnership with the late King of Holland; but after his expul¬ sion from Belgium, in 1830, Mr. C. pur¬ chased his share. Seraing has been disposed of to a company, styled “La John Cockerill Societe,” by whom it is now worked. The place is not shown, except to persons bearing letters of introduction, which may be obtained in the office at Liege. 2 Ougree Stat. Cross the Cologne Rly. Lie'ge ( Longdoz ) Station. The branch which continues from Flemalle, along the 1. bank, is 11 kilom. —6 m. 7 furlongs, in length. The stations are, 3^ kilom. Jemeppe Stat., opposite to Seraing, with which it is connected by an iron suspension bridge. 2 Tilleur Stat. 5g Guillemins Junct. Stat., onthemain line of railroad to Aix-la-Chapelle, and on the 1. bank of the river above Liege, is about § m. from the hotels. Omnibus, 50 c. At Val Benoit is the bridge by which the rly. to Aix crosses the river. LifiGE (Flemish, Luik ; German, Luttich.)— Inns: 1st class: II. Bellevue, on the Meuse, opposite the Pont de la Boverie, good, but dear; H. de Suede, [ first-rate; *11. d’Angleterre, very good; II. de TEurope. 2nd class: Pommelette, Rue du Souverain-Pont, noisy ; Grand Cerf; IT. de France; H. de TUnivers, close to the Railway, good. Liege is finely situated at the junc¬ tion of the Ourthe with the Meuse, in a fertile valley most productive in vege¬ tables; it has 98,000 Inhab., and no other Belgian town appears to be so thriving. The clouds of smoke usually I seen from a distance hanging over it Belgium. proclaim tlie manufacturing city,—the Birmingham of the Low Countries; and the dirty houses, murky atmosphere, and coal-stained streets, are the natural consequence of the branch of industry in which its inhabitants are engaged. The staple manufacture is that of fire¬ arms ; Liege is, in fact, one great ar¬ moury, and has produced at the rate of a million firearms annually for some time past. The saddlery is also very good here, and a particular kind of coarse cloth is manufactured in large quanti¬ ties. There is a Royal Cannon Foundry in the suburb of St. Leonhard, and the Cockerill Company manufactures spin¬ ning machinery and steam-engines to rival the English. The cause of this commercial prosperity is, as might be conjectured, the presence of coal in great abundance close at hand. The mines are worked upon very scientific principles : some of them are situated so near to the town that their galleries are carried under the streets, so that many of the houses, and even the bed of the river, are in some places under¬ mined Liege once contained 40 religious houses, 32 parish churches, and 7 col¬ legiate churches, besides the cathedral. 21 churches remain. The buildings best worth notice in Liege are, the Church of St. Jacques , and the court of the * Palais de Justice , formerly palace of the Prince Bishop, built by the Cardl. Bishop Erard de la March. 1533, a most interesting edifice. The stunted pillars of the colonnade which surrounds it bear a resemblance to those of the ducal palace at Venice, and have a striking effect. Each pillar is carved with a different pattern. The front of the palace is modern, but in the rear remains much good Gothic of the 16th cent. A tower of brick rising- over the roof, now a prison, was origi¬ nally the Bishop’s watch-tower. A new wing has been built in the olden style, to serve as a Government House, 1852. In front of the Bishop’s palace stood the cathedral of St. Lambert; utterly destroyed by the French revolutionists. Here now stands an equestrian statue of Charlemagne , by Jehotte, surrounded by statues of some of his successors. 177 It cost nearly 8000/., of which the city contributed half. Plie present Cathedral , formerly the collegiate ch. of St. Paul , was founded, in 967, by Bp. Heraclius. It is a fine building, 82 ft. high, of good propor¬ tions, painted roof, with turrets at the angles (the choir of the 13tli cent., the nave 1557). The carved wooden pulpit, with 5 marble statues beneath it, of Religion, with SS. Peter, Paul, Lambert, and Hubert, is by Geefs. The Tresor contains ecclesiastical antiquities: reliquary of Holy Cross, 1058, partly gold; bust of St. Lambert, silver gilt, with reliefs; St. George and Dragon, with kneeling figure of Charles the Bold, its donor, 1471; cup of silver gilt, 15th cent.; numerous vestments. St. Jacques (date 1513-28), restored by the government, is the finest of the existing churches : the pier-arches are elegantly fringed ; it possesses wide windows (filled with painted glass), elegantly muUioned; net-work screens; reeded pillars, branching into rich tra¬ cery, spreading over the roof, studded with embossed ornaments, containing within them gay arabescoes, medaRions of saints, sovereigns, and prelates innu¬ merable, all most gorgeously, yet har¬ moniously,* painted and gilt.— Hope. The painted glass in the choir (date, early in the 16th cent.) is very good for the period. This church may be visited on the way to or from the railroad. Liege contains many churches of great antiquity. St. Bartholomew’s Ch. of 5 aisles, built 1015, surmounted by 2 W. towers of brick, but modernized within, contains a font of brass, cast at Dinant 1112 ; a basin resting on 10 oxen, adorned with bas-reliefs of Holy Bap¬ tism. St. Denis was consecrated in 990; it is chiefly Romanesque; the choir is Gothic. St. Croix is very anci¬ ent, with a tower in a Moorish style. There is a good view from the tower of St. Martin’s , on a steep height. A provincial Museum is commenced in an old church in the market-place. It contains pictures by De la Roche, * The painting of the roof is nearly the same as that of St- Anastasio, Verona, as given in Gruner’s great work on Art in Italy. i 3 ROUTE 24. —LlfiGE. CHURCHES. Sect. II. 178 ROUTE 24. -LIEGE. PLAN OF LIEGE. 1. St. Paul. 2. St. Jacques. 3. St. Bartkelemy. 4. Ste. Croix. 5. Palais de Justice. 6. Hdtel de Ville. 7. University—Library—Museum. 8. Muse'e. 9. Theatre. 10. Gymnase. 11. Prison. 12. Market. 13. Cannon Foundry. 14. Manufactory of Arms. 15. Zinc Works (Vieille Montague). 1G. Post Office. 17. Statue of Gr£try. Botanic Garden. Belgium. ROUTE 24. -LIEGE. 179 180 ROUTE 24. —LIEGE. UNIVERSITY. HISTORY. Sect. II. Ingres (portrait of Napoleon), &c. &c.; a carved chimney-piece which belonged to Bp. Erard de la Mark. The University is a handsome build¬ ing, erected by King William I. of Hol¬ land in 1817. There are 46 professors, who lecture to about 7 00 students in the various faculties. It contains a Museum , which, though not very complete or well arranged, possesses some objects of interest, as illustrating the natural his¬ tory of this part of Belgium ; such as the collection of fossil bones from the numerous caverns near Liege, which have acquired celebrity from the abun¬ dant and remarkable animal remains they have afforded, and the interest attached to them is heightened by the discovery of human bones and skulls in the same cave with hones of hears, hyaenas, the elephant, and rhinoceros. The principal caves are those of Engis, Chokier, Ramioul, Engihoul, Iluy, Fond de Foret, Gof- fontaine.” ( T . T.) The library con¬ tains 80,000 vols. and 469 curious MSS. collected from suppressed monasteries. A Botanic Garden , well stored with plants, and beautifully kept, is attached to the University. Post Office , Place St. Denis, No. 4. Vigilantes , § 22 A. There are 3 bridges over the Meuse : —the Pont des Arches , the lowest down the stream, rebuilt. During the sack of Liege by Charles the Bold, women and children were hurled into the river by hundreds from the old bridge;—the Pont de la Boverie , of 4 arches; and one over the Ourthe, a truly handsome struc¬ ture, built 1848; and the Pont du Val Benoit , for the passage of the railroad. The Casino , on the S. side of the Meuse, near the Longdoz Rly. Stat., in the midst of some ornamental grounds, is worth a visit (§ 40) on account of the view from them. English strangers are admitted, on the introduction of a mem¬ ber (the hotel-keeper), to the gardens and to the balls given here. Outside the walls, in the convent of St. Julian , Sir John Mandeville, the English traveller, who died here 1372, was buried. The chapel exists, and a number of indiscriminate bones, but there is nothing to mark his grave. Gretry, the composer, was born here, in a house marked by an inscribed tablet on the front, in the Rue des Recollets, on the rt. bank of the Meuse. A statue of him, in bronze, 13 ft. high, by Geefs , is set up in the Square facing the University, which is called after him Place Gretry. The florist should visit Makois’ nur¬ sery garden near Liege, one of the most celebrated in Belgium : from it there is a fine view of the town. Liege, in mediaeval Latin, was called Leodium, and is the capital of the Walloons, who spread from this to Longwy in Franco and to Mons, and are very anxious not to be supposed Flemish, claiming a descent from the Eburones. The Walloon language, spoken by the lower orders, is a dia¬ lect, or rather idiom, of the French, and resembles the old French of the 13th cent., but contains many Celtic and some Teutonic words unknown to French of any age. The Walloons, like the Swiss, served in former times in the armies of Spain, Austria, and France; they were generally enrolled into cavalry regiments: a regiment of 700 men composed the standing army or body-guard of the Ecclesiastical Princes of Liege. The German Emperors, as early as the 10th cent., raised the Bishops of Liege to the rank of sovereign and independent princes, and bestowed ter¬ ritory upon them, which they held as a fief of the empire. The government of the bishops was never strong, and the history of Liege is little better than a narrative of a suc¬ cession of bloody revolutions, in which a discontented populace struggled for freedom and power and licence with a despotic and often incompetent ruler. Liege, nevertheless, remained under the dominion of its bishops down to the time of the French invasion, 1794. A visit to Liege, and the ancient Bishop’s palace, will call to the mind of an Englishman the vivid scenes and descriptions of Quentin Durward. He will, however in vain endeavour to identify many of the places there spoken of with the spot. The Bishop’s “ Castle of Schonwaldt, situated about 10 m. Belgium. route 24. — liege, quentin durward. 181 from the town,” cannot be Seraing, as I it was not built till a much later period. | Sir Walter Scott never visited Liege, j so that his localities are purely ima¬ ginary ; yet from the vividness of his description of the town, and the perfect consistency of all his topogra¬ phical details, few readers would doubt that he was personally acquainted with it. He has also made a slight variation in the romance from the real facts of history, as far as relates to Liege : and as the events on which he founded the novel are of the highest interest, and serve to illustrate the story of this ancient “ imperial free city,” it may not be amiss shortly to relate them. The citizens of Liege, puffed up, as Philip de Comines says, by pride and riches, gave constant proofs of their boldness and independence by acts of insubordination, and even of open re¬ bellion, against their liege lord, Charles the Bold of Burgundy, and against the bishops, who were his allies or sup¬ ported by him. He had inflicted severe chastisement upon the Liegeois after his victory at St. Trond (when many thousands of them were left dead on the field), by abridging their privileges and taking away their banners ; and when they submissively brought him the keys of the town, he refused to enter by the gates, but compelled them to batter down the city wall for a distance of 20 fathoms, and fill up the ditch. He 1 then entered by the breach, with his j visor down, his lance in rest, at the | head of his armed bands, as a con¬ queror ; and further, to disable the bold | burghers from mutiny, ordered all their ! fortifications to be demolished. This punishment was inflicted in 1467 ; but it was so little regarded, that the very next year they again broke out into open revolt, at the instigation of secret j emissaries of Louis XI., seized upon the person of their bishop in his castle j at Tongrcs, and brought him prisoner to Liege. They were headed by one John de Yilde, or Villc, called by the French Le Sauvage : it is not improbable that he was an Englishman, whose real name was Wild, and that he was one of those lawless soldiers who at that time served [ wherever they got best pay, changing sides whenever it suited them. The Liegeois, under this Y ilde, committed many acts of cruelty, cutting in pieces, before the bishop’s eyes, one of his attendants, and murdering 10 others who were canons of the church, on the road to Liege. In Sir Walter Scott’s romance William de la March plays nearly the same part as Wild; but in reality this bishop succeeded soon after in making his escape. In 1482, 14 years after the events narrated in the novel, and long after the death of Charles the Bold, William de la March, The Wild Boar of Ardennes, wishing to obtain the mitre for his son, murdered the Bishop of Liege, Louis de Bourbon, whom Charles the Bold had supported. When tidings of the proceedings of the men of Liege were brought to Charles the Bold at Peronne, he im¬ mediately laid Louis under arrest, exactly as described in the novel, and compelled him to march against the rebels, at the head of his soldiers, while he led on his own Burgundians. Louis showed little hesitation to comply with the proposal, though the citizens were his allies, and he had in fact fomented the rebellion. Nothing, however, ap¬ pears to have damped the courage of the Liegeois : they made 3 separate sallies out of their breaches and over their ruined walls. They were led on by the same Yilde, who in one of these attacks was slain, but not before he had laid low many of the bravest among the Burgundian guards. Their last sally was planned at a moment when the invad¬ ing forces, tired out with long watch¬ ing, had taken off their armour and retired to rest, previous to the grand assault on the town, which Charles and Louis had arranged for the following morning. The foremost in this enter¬ prise were 600 men from a town called Franchimont, on the road between Liege xmd Spa, firm allies of the citi¬ zens, and considered their bravest sol¬ diers. Like the Spartans and Homans of old, these 600 devoted themselves to the enterprise of seizing or slaying the 2 princes, as they lay in their quarters before the town, “ or agreed to perish 182 ROUTE 24. —LIEGE TO MAESTRICHT. Sect. II. in tlic attempt. About midnight the Scotch archers and Burgundian guards attached to the persons of the 2 sove¬ reigns were roused by a terrible alarm of the enemy, who had penetrated al¬ most up to the 2 houses in which the princes were lodged, without discovery. The attack was so sudden, and the con¬ fusion which ensued so much aug¬ mented by the jealousy which subsisted between the Duke and the King, each believing the other to be concerned in the plot, that the enterprise had nearly succeeded. But having recovered from the surprise, and hastily put on their armour, they succeeded at last, with the aid of their guards, in driving back the assailants, and the brave men of Franchi- mont were for the most part cut to pieces. The next day the city, already de¬ prived of its fortifications, which Charles had caused to be razed to the ground, was entered at various points by the invading army, and no resistance was offered. Either exhausted by their exertions, or lulled in their suspicions, the citizens were no longer ready to resist. So unprepared were they in¬ deed, that the besiegers found the cloth laid in almost every house which they entered, as it happened to be dinner¬ time. Many were slaughtered at once, to appease the vengeance of Charles ; a great number fled to the woods, only to perish there of cold. The city was condemned by him to destruction; given up to unrestricted licence, plunder, and bloodshed, without respect to age, sex, or condition; and no sooner had he quitted it than it was set on fire in various places ; the fires were renewed every day for 7 weeks, until every building, except churches or convents, was burnt to the ground and levelled with the dust! * These events took place in Oct. 1468 ; before that time the number of inhabit¬ ants exceeded 120,000. Environs. —Very extensive prospects may be obtained from the heights above the town, especially from the *old Citadel on Mont St. Walbiu’g, on the 1. bank of the Meuse, command¬ ing the windings of the river, the * See Kirk’s ‘ Charles the Cold,’ vol. ii. distant Ardennes, &c. Another good point of view is the Fort Chartreuse, an eminence on the opposite side of the valley. The junction of the 3 valleys of the Meuse, Ourthe, and Yesdre, close to Liege, with the outline of the Ar¬ dennes in the distance, forms a land¬ scape of no ordinary beauty. At Bohermont, a height above the Chartreuse, the Austrians, under the i Prince of Coburg, suffered a defeat (1794) from the French under Jour- dain, which wrested the Pays-Bas for ever from the house of Austria. Ilerstal, see below. Excursions to Spa and Chaud Fon¬ taine, described Rte. 25, and to the caves of Maestricht, Rte. 27. In order to gain admittance to see the Iron Works at Seraing , a written order must be obtained from the Coclce- rill Societe’s office in Liege. An omni¬ bus goes thither every hour. Steamers ply, when there is water i enough, daily to and from Namur; daily to Rotterdam, by Maestricht, stop¬ ping for the night at Venloo. — Lidge to Maestricht.—Railway opened 1861 (4 trains daily, in 1 hr.), along the rt. bank of the Meuse. Terminus at Longdoz. Travellers making the ex¬ cursion to the quarries at Maestricht had better leave their baggage at Liege, and avoid custom-houses. Steamers twice a-day, in 2 hrs., return¬ ing in 4 hrs. The landing-place of the steamers is below the Pont des Arches. The river Meuse has been canalised between Liege and Maestricht, and the canal furnished with locks, so as to maintain a passage for vessels at all seasons. The first objects to remark are— 1. The Mont de Piete, of red brick with stone quoins, and the Royal Can¬ non Foundry, backed by the hill of the citadel. 1. A round tower; the stump of a burnt windmill. rt. Jupille Stat., peeping from among the trees, with its ch., was the favourite resort of King Pepin, who died here 714. rt. Souverain Wandrc. 1. Lleristal or Ilerstal, birthplace of ROUTE 25.—li£ge to aix-la-chapelle. 183 Belgium . Popin le Gros, Maire du Palais to the last Merovingian Kings of France, is a long village of workmen’s houses, stretching nearly 3 m. up to Liege. There are some fragments of a Frankish (?) Palace with 2 turrets near the Town-house. rt. Argenteau Stat. : the chateau belongs to the wealthy Count Mercy; it is finely placed on the summit of a rocky height. The castle is con¬ nected by a bridge with- another rock occupied by gardens. rt. Vise Stat., once a fortress, was the head-quarters of Louis XIY. in 1673, during the siege of Maestricht. The fortifications were razed by the inhabit¬ ants, 1775. 1. Lixhe : Belgian custom-house. rt. Eysdcn Stat. : Dutch custom¬ house. The summit of the Pietersberg is crowned by the Chateau Caster, be¬ longing to M. de Brouckere. The ruins of a Roman fort, called Lichten- berg, arc also visible, and near it the entrance to the subterranean Quarries. On the N. slope of the hill run the walls of the citadel. 1. Maestricht (R. 27). The Inns are a good way from the waterside, but the guide fo the quarries of the Pietersberg (Courtens) lives a little way within the gate, near the Arsenal. ROUTE 25. LIEGE TO AIX-LA-CIIAPELLE, BY VER- VIEIIS, RAILWAY.—VISIT TO SPA. 55 kilom. = 34§ m. This Railway was finished in 1843- 44 . Trains, in 2£ hrs., exclusive of a stoppage at the custom-house of Yer- viers. Travellers bent on a pedes¬ trian exclusion would be well repaid by ascending the valley of the Yesdro on foot as far as Dolhain. The country between Liege and Aix- la-Chapelle presented serious obstacles to the formation of a railway, which have been overcome only by the utmost skill and arduous exertions of the en¬ gineer. The cost exceeded one million sterling; there are 19 tunnels in the Belgian part of the line alone, so that it has been compared to a needle run through a corkscrew. It is con¬ ducted across the Meuse by a fine bridge (Pont du Val St. Benoit) of 7 arches, 469 ft. long, a little way above Liege. It afterwards follows nearly the same line as the high road as far as Limburg, crossing the Yesdre by 17 bridges, and repeatedly piercing the rock. Soon after crossing the Meuse the zinc-works of the Vieillc Montagne Company are passed, and the river Ourthe is crossed by a bridge of 3 arches at 4 Chenee Stat.—a place of manufac¬ ture at the junction of the Ourthe with the Yesdre (the s is pronounced in this word). The railway enters the agree¬ able valley of the Yesdre, one of the most charming in Belgium, crossing the windings of the stream all the way to Limburg. The scenery is enlivened by neat villas and gardens interspersed with orchards and green pastures, alter¬ nating with large manufactories, prin¬ cipally of cloth, giving to it an English character. 3 Ciiaudfontaine Stat .—Inns : II. des Bains, a large bathing establish¬ ment. The hot spring which supplies the baths rises in an island in the midst of the Yesdre. The water is pumped up by a large wheel turned by the stream. This little village is a favourite Sun¬ day resort of the Liegeois : its situation is charming; the scenery around bears some resemblance to that of Matlock, and the wooded heights which enclose it abound in shady walks leading to points of extensive view when the summit is reached. The Yesdre was a good fishing stream, but the grayling have been destroyed in this part by the erection of zinc-works. 184 ROUTE 25 . —FRANCHIMONT. SPA. Sect. II. 4 Trooz Stat. Old castle. Cross the *Vesdre: pass 2 tunnels. 4 Nessonvaux Stat. 5 Pepinsterre Junction Stat. rt. is a modern Gothic castle of the Yicomte do Biollay, a manufacturer of Verviers, said to occupy the site of King Pepin’s hunting lodge. Excursion to Spa. [rt. Here the Branch Railroad (opened 1854) to Spa (8 m.) turns off, up the valley of the Hoegne, which is equally pleasing with that of the Yesdre, clothed with meadows of the brighest verdure, and enlivened by many country-houses, be¬ longing principally to the manufac¬ turers of Yerviers. Long lines of cloth hung out in the sun proclaim the staple manufacture of the district. 4 Juslenville Stat. 1 Theux Stat. A little beyond the village of Theux, famous for its quarries of black marble, are seen “ The Towers of Franchimont, Which, like an eagle's nest in air, Hang o’er the stream and hamlet fair. Deep in their vaults, the peasants say, A mighty treasure buried lay, Amass’d through rapine and through wrong By the last lord of Franchimont. The iron chest is bolted hard, A huntsman sirs, its constant guard; Around his neck his horn is hung, His hanger in his belt is slung ; Before his feet his bloodhounds lie : An ’twere not for his gloomy eye, Whose withering glance no art can brook, As true a huntsman doth lie look As bugle ere in brake did sound, Or ever halloo'd to a hound. “ To chase the fiend, and win the prize In that same dungeon, ever tries An aged necromantic priest; It is an hundred years at least Since ’twixt them first the strife begun, And neither yet has lost Or won. And oft the conjuror's words will make The stubborn demon groan and quake, And oft the bands of iron break, Or bursts one lock that still amain Fast as ’tis open’d shuts again. Thus magic strife within the tomb May last until the day of doom, Unless the adept shall learn to tell The very word that clench'd the spell, When Franchimont lock'd the treasure cell. An hundred years are pass’d and gone, And scarce three letters has he won.” Walter Scott. During the siege of Liege by Charles the Bold and Louis XI., 600 inhabit¬ ants of Franchimont banded themselves together with the design of seizing the persons of these two monarchs as they lay encamped before the walls. They failed in their bold attempt, as has been already related, and paid for their heroism with their lives. An inscrip¬ tion on the face of the rock, by the road¬ side, still keeps alive the recollection of the deed. 3 La. Reid Stat. 4 Spa Stat.— Inns: H. d’Orange.—■ H. de Bellevue, in an airy situation.— II. dcs Pays-Bas.— H. de Flandres.— H. de York, best family hotel. These are superior hotels. Table-d’hote (at 4) 4 frs.; dinner in private 5 frs. ; bottle of Bordeaux 3 frs.—H. de 1’Eu¬ rope.—II. d’Angleterre.—IL des Stran¬ gers : table-d’hote 2^ to 3 frs. There are several good restaurants , whence dinners arc sent out to private lodgings. The best is the Rocher de Cancale, Place Royale, a first-rate cuisine. Spa is almost made up of inns and lodging-houses, many of which receive lodgers at much reduced rates in winter. The number of permanent Inhab. is 5000. The number of visitors amounts to about 10,000. It has become a very expensive place, and is much over¬ grown with buildings. It is prettily situated in a sort of semi-basin, in the midst of hills forming part of the Ardennes chain; the heights overhanging it are covered with shrubberies, and intersected by healthful and airy walks, with pleasing prospects at intervals. Spa is the most fashionable watering- place in Belgium, and has for 2 cen¬ turies been frequented by distinguished visitors from all parts of Europe. Our Charles II. repaired hither, when in exile, 1654, and the Czar Peter was restored to health—shaken by constant dissipation—by the use of Spa waters in 1717. It stands 1000 ft. above the sea-level, and the purity of its air is proved by the fact that the cholera has never visited it. A large annual grant of money for the improvement of the town, and erection of new baths, pump- room, &c., has been made by the Bel¬ gian government. A handsome new 185 ROUTE 25.' —SPA. SPRINGS. PONIES. Belgium. Bathing Establishment was exacted 1865. It is the only place in Belgium where public gaming is allowed. The chief edifices here are—1. The Bedoute , a large building (date 1769), plain without, hut handsome within, which includes, under one roof, a cafe, a Theatre open 4 times a week, ball¬ room, and gambling-rooms, where rouge et noir and roulette are carried on nearly from morning to night. The profits of this establishment exceed 40,000^. a year. On Wednesday and Saturday a ball is given here during the season. In former times the gaming-houses belonged to the Bishop of Liege, who was a partner in the concern, and de¬ rived a considerable revenue from his share in the ill-gotten gains of the manager of the establishment, and no gambling tables could be set up with¬ out his permission. 2. The handsome edifice called Vauxhall, built 1770 as a second Bedoute, and much frequented in former times, is now little used. A Band plays twice a day, either on the Place Boyale , or in the avenue of fine lime-trees called Promenade de Sept Ileures , or, during bad weather, in the gallery of the Bedoute. The Mineral Waters of Spa are sup¬ plied from 7 springs, all chalybeate, in which the delicate quantities of iron and of alkaline salines which they con¬ tain are so admirably combined by nature with the appropriate volume of carbonic acid gas, that they are not only agreeable to the palate, but are easy of digestion. They are all cold, bright, and sparkling, and are effica¬ cious in chronic affections of the liver, nervous diseases, dyspepsia, and in that general relaxation of the system which a long residence in hot climates causes. The springs, alike in general pro¬ perties, and differing slightly in their specific action on the human economy, are—1. The Pouhon (pouher, in Wal¬ loon, is the same as puiser, to draw), situated in the centre of the town, under a colonnade built by the King of the Netherlands in honour of Peter the Great. From this spring comes the Spa water, which is sent to the ends of the earth for the benefit of invalids. 2 . The Tonnelets, old and new, so called because the water was first collected in little tubs: now almost deserted, distant IT m. 3 . The Sauveniere, on the road to Malmedi in a little plantation of trees, about 1^ m. from Spa. Near it, in the shrubbery, is a monument set up (1787) by the D. de Chartres (L. Philippe) and his 3 sisters in remembrance of their mother havingreceived her cure from the use of these waters. The inauguration of it is described by Mad. de Genlis in her momoirs. It was destroyed by re¬ publican soldiers, 1792, and restored, 1841, by Louis Philippe. 4. The Groes- beck , close to the Sauveniere. 5. The The Geronstere; it is very beautifully situated, at a height of 470 ft. above the Pouhon, and nearly 2 m. distant from it. The Sauveniere and Geron¬ stere are surrounded by extensive plea¬ sure-grounds, in which, during the fine weather, visitors breakfast, or dine, or take other refreshments furnished on the spot. 6 . The Barisart , 1 m. from Spa, first brought into notice by Dr. Cutler, and now the most fre¬ quented of the distant springs, its waters being well suited for weak di¬ gestive organs. All these springs may be visited in succession, or any one may be reached at once by agreeable roads and paths bordered by avenues of limes, or cut through shady and picturesque ravines traversed by streams and water-falls, rising by gentle ascents. The entire tour of the springs forms a circuit of about 5| m. The healthy pleasure of exploring the walks and rides of the neighbour¬ hood is promoted by a great number of well-appointed carriages for hire, espe¬ cially pony-chaises called Ame'ricaines. It is the custom here for everybody to ride on horseback. There are more than 500 ponies for hire , chiefly the hardy and surefooted ponies of the Ardennes. The , charge is high, and no tariff. They ma) r likewise be en¬ gaged at the rate of 35 frs. per week. When a visitor finds out a tolerable one, he had better secure it for the whole period of his stay. 186 ROUTE 25 . —SPA. REMOUCHAMPS. Sect. II. Pony-chaises charge the course 5 or 6 frs. Two-horse carriages, from 8 to 10 frs. The tour of the springs counts as a 11 course.” There is a fine large Swimming-Bath in the town, built of limestone, through which a constant stream of fresh water flows. Ladies’ hours, 10 to 12 a.m. The English Physicians at Spa are Dr. Cutler, and Drs. Lezaaek and Jules Lezaack. English Ch. Service on Sundays, at 11 and 3, by a resident English clergy¬ man. There is an English Club, to which members of the chief London clubs are readily admitted. There m much game in the neighbour¬ hood, and good trout and grayling fish¬ ing. There are Races in Aug. or Sept. Spa is famous for a peculiar manu¬ factory of Wooden Toys , somewhat like the Tunbridge ware. The wood of which they are formed is stained by being steeped in the mineral waters, and receives a dark grey or brown tint from the iron. A considerable number of hands, and some artists of no mean skill, are employed in decorating them with paintings of flowers, &c. The Cascade de Coo , about 9 m. S. of Spa, 3 m., is one of the customary excursions of the visitors at Spa. The road thither passes the Geronstere and the villages Ru and Roanne. A more pleasant but longer way is by Stavelot, where you descend the pretty Valley of the Ambleve, which forms the Cascade de Coo , descending 30 or 40 ft. At Trois Ponts the Salm, a good fishing-stream, falls in. {Inn, at Yieux Salm, Belle¬ vue, resort of sportsmen.) From Sta¬ velot (Rte. 44) you may reach St. Hubert by cross-roads, via La Roche {Inn, Hotel du Nord, comfortable old- fashioned house ), on the Ourthe, with a fine ruined castle, Beausaint, Champ¬ ion (8 m.— Inn, Chez Robinet), to St. Hubert (8 m.), Rte. 29. The limestone mountains which com¬ pose the chain of Ardennes abound in natural caverns. One of these lies about 7 m. SAY. of Spa, at a place called Remouchamps. It contains some fine stalactites ; but the views and descrip¬ tions published of it are on the whole exaggerated. The way to it is over a very stony cross-road, difficult to find without the aid of a guide. It passes the village of La Reid, up several steep hills, and across a wild heath, and thence descends into a rugged ravine, in which lie the cave and village of Re¬ mouchamps. At the little Inn, H. des Etrangers, the visitor is provided with a blouse to keep his dress clean, with can¬ dles, and a guide. The entrance is closed by a door, the keys of which are kept in the village, and it is shown for the benefit of the commune. The path is wet and slippery. The grotto is traversed by a stream which is supposed to be the same as that which buries itself in the ground near Adseux, and which must pursue a subterranean course of some miles before it arrives at Remouchamps. This cave is situated in the mountain limestone. It alternates with clay slate. Nearly opposite the cave stands Mont- jardin, an old castle on the top of an escarped rock, still inhabited, and sur¬ rounded by gardens. 3 m. W. of Remouchamps, 8 m. from Spa, is the little village of Ambleve; and overhanging it the scanty ruins of an¬ other old castle, called les Quatre Fils Aymon (after these preux chevaliers of the nursery story-book). It was the residence of William de la Marck, the Boar of Ardennes, so called from the ferocity of his disposition, who figures in Scott’s novel of Quentin Durward. Some subterranean apartments, cut in the rock beneath the castle, are curious. A different road may be taken in re¬ turning to Spa, by Adseux, near which a river precipitates itself into a natural arch or cavern, and thence to Haute Beaumont (or Hodebomont). ^ The traveller may proceed at once from Spa to the Rhine by way of Malmedi (Rte. 43) and Treves, and thence descend the Moselle to Coblenz by steam; or he may post from Mal¬ medi to Priim, and there turning aside explore Eifcl and its extinct volcanoes (Rte. 45), and descend upon the most beautiful part of the Moselle, near the baths of Bertrich and Alf, in about 4 days. It is easy to reach Malmedi from Liege in one day, and Treves in a second day. The borders of the Moselle abound in Belgium. r. 25. —verviers. 20. —Brussels to li£ge. 187 objects of interest, combining- pictu¬ resque scenery, wonderful geological phenomena, and remarkable Homan remains. In going from Spa to Verviers we retrace our steps as far as Pepinsterre .] From Liege to Aix , continued. The valley presents a succession of large cloth factories, alternating with the neat and handsome country houses and gardens of their proprietors. The railway crosses the Vesdre twice before 3 Ensival Stat. 2 Verviers Stat., “ Buffet Restau¬ rant.” The baggage of travellers enter¬ ing- Belgium from Prussia is examined here, and the carriages are changed. The Inns near the station are so bad and exorbitant that it is preferable to repair to those in the town, although 1 m. off. Verviers (Lins: H. de Flandres; II. des Pays-Bas; H. de France), on the Vesdre : its population already ex¬ ceeds 29,000; an instance of recent and rapid growth, chiefly owing to the flourishing state of its cloth manufac¬ tories, which are said to produce se¬ cond-rate fabrics cheaper and better i than those of England and France. There are about 60 cloth-mills in and around Verviers, employing 40,000 i hands and 155 steam engines, and cloth to the value of 3 millions sterling is exported. The Belgian army is clothed from the looms of Verviers. The water of the Vesdre is said to possess proper¬ ties which fit it admirably for dyeing. After traversing 5 more tunnels, a high i embankment, and a deep cut, the rly. j is carried over the valley of the Vesdre, i on a viaduct of 21 arches, 65 ft. high, j Dolhain, once a suburb of Limburg, J is now the town. On an eminence to the rt. above it a church tower and . some crumbling walls are seen: this is ■ Limburg, formerly capital of the duchy of Limburg, now united to the province of Liege. The town, once flourishing and strongly fortified, is reduced nearly to ruin. Its outworks were blown up by the French in the time of Louis XIV. ( 1675 ), and various calamities of war and fire have made it little better than a heap of ruins. Even so Jate as 1833—4, a fire consumed 40 houses. The Oh. of St. George , gutted by it, but re- j stored since, contains an elegant Gothic tabernacle (date 1520), and a monument ! to a princess of Baden (1672). The I view into; the valley is pleasing, but there is nothing here worth stopping for. There are mines of zinc and coal in the neighbourhood, and much cheese is made in the district. The railway on leaving Dolhain quits the valley of the Vesdre. The first Prussian station is 7 Herbesthal Stat., where passports are called for no longer, but the car¬ riages are searched; the baggage is examined at Aix or Cologne. The rail- road is carried on a bridge of 2 rows ; of 17 arches, 120 ft. high in the centre, 1 over the Valley of the Geule; passes through 2 tunnels, the second of which is 2220 ft. long, pierced through a sand¬ hill, and finally reaches Aix-la-Chapelle down an inclined plane. 15 Aix-la-Chapelle Terminus.— Close to (rt.) Borcette.—(Rte. 36.) ROUTE 26. MECHLIN OR BRUSSELS TO LIEGE, BY LOUVAIN.—RAILWAY. Brussels to Liege 114 kilom. = 71J m. The journey to Liege by express train requires 2 ^ h. In order to reach Louvain from Brussels by railway it is necessary to go round by Mechlin. Brussels to Mechlin 20 kilom. = 12 ^ m. Bee Rte. 23. Mechlin to Liege 94 kilom. = 58| m. Soon after leaving Mechlin you pass 1. Rijmenant, where xn 1578 Don John of Austria was defeated by 188 ROUTE 26. —LOUVAIN. HOTEL DE VILLE. CHURCH. Sect. II. the Protestant Confederates, in whose j ranks fought some Scotch regiments, who threw off their clothes during the action for the sake of coolness ! 11 Ilaecht Stat. 2 Wespelaer Stat. Near this is a park and pleasure ground, laid out in the French style, which is the delight of the cockneys of Brussels. The railway crosses the Pyle, and runs not far from the Antwerp canal, which is lined ! with a treble row of trees, before reach¬ ing 11 Louvain Stat., outside the town— omnibuses and vigilantes. (§ 22 a.) The H. de Ville is only \ h. walk from it through the Hue de Diest. Louvain. (Flem. Loven ; Germ. Lowen). — Inns : II. de Suede, Place du Peuple, near to the stat.; good and mo¬ derate. Cour de Mons.—Louvain, on the Dyle, with 32,000 Inhab., is a city of very ancient origin. The old Castle, of which a small fragment remains out¬ side the Mechlin gate, goes by the name of Chateau de Cesar, though it did not exist till 890, when the Empr. Arnold caused it to be built as a barrier against the invasion of the Normans. Edward III. of England lived for one year in the castle, and the Empr. Charles V. and his sister were educated here by Andrien Boyens, afterwards Pope Adrian VI. A high earthen rampart encloses the town on one side, and is cut through by the roads to Brussels and Mechlin. It has a deep dry fosse on the outside, and is from 80 to 100 ft. high. The old Porte de Diest dates from 1526. The ground-plan of Louvain is nearly cir¬ cular. The * Hotel de Ville is one of the rich¬ est and most beautiful Gothic buildings in the world. Every part of the ex¬ terior is elaborately decorated by the chisel. It was begun 1448, and finish¬ ed 1469, by M. de Laycns, master mason of Louvain, and has been re¬ paired at the joint expense of the town and government. The delicate and rich masonry of the exterior, which had suffered from time and the weather, has been renovated entirely. The sub- ; jects of the sculptured groups are, j for the most part, taken from the Old | Testament. The common council has decided that statues (in number about 250) shall be placed in the niches of the 3 facades and the towers. The niches on the ground floor are reserved for celebrated persons born at Louvain, or who have been domiciled there, and for persons who have rendered eminent services to the town. The pictures within the Town Hall are generally of little consequence. A few are curious from their antiquity. The * Church of St. Peter, near to the Town Hall, is also well worth see¬ ing. It was founded in 1040 ; but hav¬ ing been twice destroyed by fire, the existing building is not older than 1430. An original drawing of the W. front (date 1507) is preserved in the Town Ilall, with a singularly lofty tower and spire in the centre, 500 ft. high, and another on either side of it. A highly ornamented Roodloft, between the choir and nave, is in the richest flamboyant Gothic (date 1440). In front of it hangs a 12-branch chandelier of wrought iron —the Avork of Quentin Matsys, Avho Avas probably born at Louvain about 1450. Under the arch which separates the choir from its side aisle, on the N. side of the grand altar, is an elaborate Tabernacle of sculptured stone to contain the host. It is a hexagon in plan, tapering up- Avards to a point, and is about 30 ft. high. See, in 2 of the choir chapels, 2 altarpieces by Steurbout —the Martyr¬ dom of St. Erasmus (Patron contre le mal du ventre, “ Patroon tegen to Buykpyn”) a horrible subject, but treated Avith great propriety by the painter, and the Last Supper, a work of high merit. A Holy Family, by Quen¬ tin Matsys, in a side chapel at the back of the high altar, is considered the great ornament of the church. It was earned to Paris during the Bevolution. On the shutters are painted the Death of St. Anne, a beautiful composition, and the Expulsion of Joachim from the Temple. In one of the nave chapels a picture by I. van Billaer (?) represents a cook with his apron on, chosen bishop (St. Evortius ?) in consequence of the miraculous descent of a dove upon his head. In the fore¬ ground he appears to refuse the mitre, but behind preparations arc making for PICTURES. 189 Belgium. route 26.' —louvain - . his installation. Sir Joshua Reynolds says of it—“ It is a composition of near a hundred figures, many in good atti¬ tudes, natural and well invented. It is much more interesting to look at the works of these old masters than slight commonplace pictures of many modern painters.” The Pulpit of wood (date 1742) represents St. Peter on a rock and the Conversion of St. Paul, sur¬ mounted by palm-trees. The stricken horse and fallen rider are finely exe¬ cuted both in form and expression. The carved woodwork of the main por¬ tals in the inside is remarkable. The font, of bronze, at the AV. end of the nave, has an elaborate Gothic crane of iron attached to the wall near it, for the purpose of supporting the cover, now removed. One of the chapels in the N. aisle of the nave has a low screen of coloured marbles sculptured in the style of Louis XIV. The chapels con¬ taining the pictures by Steurbout and Matsys are locked; to see them, apply to the custode. The University , founded 1426, sup¬ pressed by the French, was re-esta¬ blished by the King of Holland in 1817. Since 1836 it has once more become the nursing mother of Romish priests for Belgium. There are about 600 students. In the 16th cent, it was considered the first university in Europe, and, being especially distin¬ guished as a school of Roman Catholic theology, it was then frequented by 6000 students. There were formerly 43 colleges, variously endowed by pious founders, dependent upon the Univer¬ sity : of these only about 20 now re¬ main, and their funds have been much reduced. The Colleges du Pape, dcs Philosophcs, du St. Esprit, du Faucon (now a military hospital), &c., are sumptuous edifices of 18th cent, archi¬ tecture. The Halle aux Draps of the weavers, erected in 1317, was appropriated to the service of the University , after its first owners were banished for their re¬ fractory conduct. It still exhibits traces of the opulence of its founders, but is scarcely worth entering if the traveller be pressed for time. Far more inter¬ esting is UNIVERSITY. The Cabinet of Paintings , belonging to MM. Vandenschrieck, Rue de Paris, Ho. 8b, one of the most select now in the Netherlands as regards native masters. It contains 2 fine portraits by Memling, of Wm. Morel and his wife ; Head of the Virgin, by Clayssens ; the Martyrdom of St. Catherine, and 3 sketches, by Rubens ; good specimens of Cuyp, Vandyck, v. der Heyden, the Ostades, Rembrandt, Ruysdael, Teniers, the Van dc Veldes, AVouvermans, &c.; besides some good works by modern artists. *The carved wooden stalls in St. Ger¬ trude’s Church , which was originally the chapel of the Dukes of Brabant, are re¬ puted the finest in Belgium; they are of oak, in flamboyant style, with de¬ tached groups and statues, and beauti¬ ful bas-reliefs. They have been re¬ stored by Goyers. The modern paint¬ ings by the Belgian artists AVappers, Matthieu, and de Keyser, in St. Mi¬ chael’s , also deserve mention. The Tower of Jansenius , in which that celebrated theological writer com¬ posed the works which gave rise to those doctrines of grace and free-will, named after their author Jansenism, exists no longer. Louvain may easily be seen in a day ; and there is no inducement to remain longer, as the city has a deserted aspect, the more striking when contrasted with its ancient prosperity and swarming population. Its walls, now in part turned into boulevards, measm’ed 6 m. in circumference ; and in the 14th cent., when it was the capital of Brabant and residence of its princes, its Inhab. amounted to 100,000. Nearly half of them lived by the woollen manufac¬ tures established heie. The weavers here, however, as elsewhere, were a turbulent race ; and their rulers, being- tyrannical and impolitic, banished, in 1382, a large number of them from the town, in consequence of a tumult in which they had taken part, and during which they had thrown 17 of the ma¬ gistrates out of the windows of the Town-house. Many of the exiles took refuge in England, bringing with them their industry and independence ; and, very much to the advantage of our 190 ROUTE 26.— AERSCHOT. country, established in it those woollen manufactures which have left all others in the world far behind. Louvain is famed at present for brewing the best Beer in all Belgium. 200,000 casks are made here annually : a great deal is exported. It may be tasted at the Maison des Brasseurs , the Brewers’ Guild, a fine mansion, in the Elizabethan style, opposite the II. de Ville. Two fine houses in Hue de Namur, and several on the canal called La Leyc, are good specimens of domestic Gothic. Railroads. —To Wavre, Ottignics, and Charleroi; to Aerschot, Diest, and Ilerenthals, [12 m., to Aerschot on the Diemcr ( Inn : H. do l’Ange), 4162 Inhab., in whose parish ch. (date 1336) is a rood-screen or Juke, re¬ markable for its elaborate execution, and for the excellent preservation of not only the tracery but even its numerous bas-reliefs and statuettes, all in a good style of art. The chandelier in front of the screen is a work of Quentin Matsys, presented by him to the church as a memorial of his wife, to hang over her grave in the aisle in which she is buried. It is a frame of metal rods, set with flames or flowers of hammered metal.] The Railroad to Liege from Louvain leaves on the rt. the Abbey of Parc, still inhabited by monks, and furnished with 3 fish-ponds. 11 Yertryk Stat. 7 Tirlemont Stat. (Flem. Thiencn.) — Inn: Le Plat d’Etain ; tolerable. A town of 12,000 Inhab.: formerly much more considerable. The space within its walls S. of the railway includes very few houses, owing to the devasta¬ tion of a fire in 1604, not yet repaired: the gates are old. In the centre of it is a very extensive square. The Ch. of St. Germain , on a height visible from the railway, was founded in the 9 th cent.; the W. tower and vestibule are of the 12th. The choir is Transition, the nave and transepts Gothic. It has a lectern of brass, 15th cent., and an altar- piece by Wappers. The Jesuit J. Bol- landus, editor of the Acta Sanctorum, was born here. Outside the gate lead¬ ing to Maestricht are 3 large barrows, supposed to be Gallo-Roman graves. TIRLEMONT. LEAU. Sect. II. They are visible from the railway,—to the 1. The railroad, after leaving the station, overlooks the town from an embankment. rt. The Lion on the Field of Water¬ loo, and the Prussian Monument, are visible at a great distance. 6 Esemael Stat. On approaching Landen the rail¬ way traverses the plain of Necnmnd.cn, celebrated for 2 great battles: in 1693, when the English under William III. were beaten by Marshal Luxemburg and the French; and in 1793, when the Austrians defeated the Revolutionary army, and drove it out of Belgium. [/. Leau, between Tirlemont and St. Trond, 5 m. to the N. of the railroad, was in the middle ages a fortified town, and part of the wall still remains. The Ch. of St. Leonard (date 1231) has 2 W. towers, and a Gothic choir, whose apse is surrounded by an external arcade, like the Rhenish churches. It possesses several carved altarpieces; a fine Pas¬ chal candlestick of brass, 17 ft. high, ornamented with figures of Saints, made at Dinant; and a Tabernacle, sculptured in the style of the Renaissance, of ala¬ baster, with canopy nearly 90 ft. high, erected at the cost of the Seigneur Martin van Wilre, 1558. lie is buried in the tomb opposite it.] 7 Landen Junct. Stat. Buffet; H. Quatrc Saisons. A branch railway runs hence, by St. Trond and Hasselt, to Maestricht. (Rte. 27.) 3 Gingelom Stat. 5 llosoux Stat. 6 War cm me Stat. (8 m. from Ton- gres, Rte. 27.) Warcmme was capital of the district called Ilesbaie, lying on the 1. of the Meuse. The old Roman road from Bavay to Tongres is crossed ; it is in good preservation, and is called by the people of the country the road of Brunehaut (Brunehilde). 11 Fexhe Stat. rt. Castle of Bierset. 8 Ans Stat. is 450 ft. above the level of the Meuse, and the trains de¬ scend by 2 inclined planes, about 2^ m. long, in 15 min., being drawn up by ropes attached to stationary engines, in 12 min. The view, looking down upon Liege, is most striking. Belgium. route 27. —Brussels to aix, by maestricht. 191 6 Liege Terminus (Guillemins Stat.) I is on tlie 1. bank of the Meuse, close to the Quai d’Avroy. The railway crosses the Meuse by the bridge of Yal St. Benoit, of 7 arches. (Rte. 24.) ROUTE 27. BRUSSELS TO AIX - LA-CIIAPELLE, BY LOUVAIN, LANDEN, HASSELT, AND MAESTRICHT.—RAIL. As far as Landen the Railroad is described in Rte. 26. From Landen to Aix is 58 m. The line branches 1. across the plain of Iies- bayc by 5 Velm Stat., in prov. of Limburg. 5 St. Trond Stat. {Inns : L’Europe ; Le Sauvage, tolerable), a town of 11,500 Inhab., receiving its name from St. Trudon, who founded a monastery here, and gained great fame by the working of miracles. N. Dame is a cruciform 3rd pointed cA., 3 aisles; tower and spire added by Rolland. In¬ terior restored 1858, painted by artists of Liege, Tubemailc, &c.; statues by Geerts and Geefs. Dome on the chan¬ cel arch 16th cent. At Brustem, near this, a great battle was fought, in 1467, between Charles the Bold and his rebellious subjects of Liege. 3000 of them, who had posted them¬ selves in the town, were compelled to surrender it to Charles, to destroy the gates and ramparts, and to deliver up to him 10 of their number, whom ho caused to be beheaded. To Leau is 4 W m - 7 Cortenbosch Stat. 5 Aiken Stat. 5 Hasselt Stat., a town of 9785 Inhab. On the plain between Haelen and Herck la Ville the Franks were encamped when they chose Pharamond for King, 406. The spot is still called Frankryk. [ At Bevcrloo is the permanent mili¬ tary camp for exercise and instruction of the Belgian army, capable of re¬ ceiving 15,000 men.j 15 Munster-Bilsen Stat. [About 10 m. S. of this lies Tongres (Inn : Paon), a very ancient city of 6800 Inhab., site of a fort built by Drusus, but long before mentioned by Ciesar in his ‘ Commentaries.’ The CA. of Notre Dame was the first dedicated to the Virgin on this side of the Alps. The existing Gothic edifice dates from 1240, but the cloister behind was built in the 10th cent., and is the oldest of the kind in the country. The Tresor of this church is very rich in antiqui¬ ties, plate, enamels, reliquaries. The AVai'cmmc Station on the Liege rail¬ way is 8 m. from this. (Rte. 26). Near the town, on the estate of Betho, there exists a mineral spring, mentioned by Pliny in these words :— “ Tungri, civitas Galliae, fontem habet insignem, pluribus bullis stillantcm, ferruginci saporis quod ipsum non nisi in fine potus intelligitur. Purgat hie corpora, tertianas febres discutit, calculorumque vitia. Eadem aqua, igne admoto, turbida fit, ac postea rubescit.” It still retains its ancient properties, answering exactly to the description, and is known as the fontaine de Pline or de St. Gilles.] 5 Lanncken Stat. Cross Dutch fron¬ tier. 5 Maestricht Stat., outside the Bois- le-Duc Gate. Maestricht.— Inns: Levrior (Grey¬ hound) ; good, with certain defects. II. Bonn; au Casque (Helmet); both 192 ROUTE 27. —MAESTRICHT. Sect. II. good, but far from the stat. Tables- d’hote at I 5 . Maestriclit, tbc capital of the Dutch portion of the province of Limburg, has 28,000 Inliab. It lies on the Maas, and is united by a bridge of 9 arches to the suburb called Wyck. It is one of the strongest fortresses in Europe; its works are very extensive, and partly undermined, with capabilities for lay¬ ing under water great part of the land around, by opening the sluices. To¬ gether with Yenloo and Hoermon.de, it still belongs to the King of Holland, having been ceded to him by the treaty of 1831 : it is garrisoned by 2000 Dutch troops. It was called by the Homans Trajectum superius (the upper ford), or Trajectum ad Mosam. The great strength of this town has subjected its inhabitants to the misery of numerous sieges. Among the most memorable was that of 1579, when the Spaniards, under the Duke of Parma, took it by assault, at the end of 4 months, after having been repulsed in 9 separate attacks by the garrison, which included a few English and Scotch soldiers : they were all put to the sword, and nearly 8000 of the townspeople massacred to satisfy Spa¬ nish vengeance. It was taken by Louis XIY.; but William III. of England failed before it. Maestricht was pre¬ served to Holland by its brave garrison Sept. 1830, and was the only place which resisted effectually the insurgent Belgians. There is an arsenal and a military magazine in the town. The Stadhuis , in the centre of the great market-place, is in a modern style of architecture (date 1662). The * Ch. of St. Servais is a fine edifice with 5 towers, and a W. porch or narthex, retaining little, except the pillars of the nave and the pier arches, of the original ch. of the 10 th cent. The apse and 2 towers are of the 12 th cent. It has a splendid S. portal of 14 orders, with statues and rich foliage (1230) ; the nave of 8 bays, with late pointed roof, and flamboyant side-cha¬ pels, curious W. transept, and a cloister of the 15th cent. The interior has been painted and restored (1860). It contains a Descent from the Cross by Vandyh; the shrine of St. Servais—a curious work of the 13th cent, in copper gilt; and several reliquaries, pastoral staves, plate, &c., in the sacristy. The Ch. of Notre Dame rises from Homan substructions, and lias a curious crypt. The square called Vnjthof, in which St. Servais stands, was the place where William de la Marck, nicknamed “ le Sanglier des Ardennes,” was beheaded, 1485. Some pretty Public Gardens, called the Park, were laid out in 1838. The Porte de Jaar, near the Meuse, is an ancient gateway, part of the original fortifications of 6 th or 7th cent. The most remarkable thing about Maestricht are the * Subterranean Quar¬ ries under the hill called the Pietersberg , on which the Citadel or Fort St. Pierre stands. The entrance is not quite 3 m. from the Inns, outside St. Peter’s gate : the hire of a carriage is 6 fr. ; the fee of a sworn guide 4 fr. The entrance is in the house of the burgomaster of St. Pierre, who keeps the key, which he hands over to a sworn guide on pay¬ ment of a fee of 1 fr. The walk through the caverns takes up 1 hr. to 1 ^ hr., and you make your exit at the top of the hill near the Casino or Tea Garden of Slavanden or Slavente. From the terrace here you command an ex¬ quisite view over Maestricht and the valley, 300 ft. above the river. In places the ground has fallen in, leaving tremendous gaps and holes. Some of the passages are wide enough to admit horses and carts. They cover a space of 13 miles by 6 m.: the number of pas¬ sages amounts to 16,000, 20 to 50 ft. high and 12 broad, and a large part are now rarely explored. They are sup¬ posed to have been first worked by the Homans. The galleries, running gene¬ rally at right angles, and lined by many thousand massive pillars, 40 ft. square, left by the excavators to support the roof, cross and intersect each other so as to render it exceedingly difficult to find the way out; and it is dangerous to enter this singular labyrinth without a guide. Many lives have been lost from the want of this precaution; among others, 4 Becollet monks perished in 1640, in attempting to form a her¬ mitage in a remote spot. They had 193 ROUTE 28.^-calais to cologne. Belgiurii. provided themselves with a cine, wliicli they fastened near the entrance, hut the thread on which they depended broke. They died of hunger, and their bodies, though they were diligently sought for, were not found till 7 days after. The only persons competent to conduct strangers through the maze are a few experienced labourers who have spent a large portion of their lives in these caverns, and who assist their memory by marks made on the pillars and sides. In time of war the peasantry of the surrounding country have frequently sought refuge in the caves, along with their flocks and herds. The rock is a soft yellowish calcareous sandstone, not unlike chalk, and of the same geological age. It is cut out with a saw, and is used for building, but is ill adapted for the purpose, being much affected by the atmosphere ; it docs not make good lime, but when reduced to sand is very serviceable as manure for the fields. It abounds in marine fossil remains. Be¬ sides shells and crabs, large turtles are found in it, together with the bones of a gigantic lizard-like reptile, more than 20 ft. long, called the fossil Monitor. The caverns arc very cold, but are re¬ markably free from all moisture, and hence their temperature scarcely ever varies. Steamers daily to Liege, in 2 hrs. (Rtc. 24) :—to Rotterdam, stopping for the night at Venloo. ( Inn : Zwyns- hoofd.) Not far from this is Ruremonde , whose Ilomanesque Ch. of W. Dame (1218-24) ' contains monuments of its founders, a Count and Countess of Guel- dres. See Rte. 13. Railway to Liege (Rtc. 24); 4 trains daily in 1 hr. Railway from Maestricht to Aix-la- Chapelle. Station at Wyck, on rt. bank of the Meuse. 22 Eng. m., 4 Trains daily. 6 Meerscn Stat. 5 Valkeriburg Stat. 7 Wylre Stat. 7 Simpelveld Stat. Custom-house. 11 Aix-la-Chapellf, Stat. (Iltc. 36). [n. g.] ROUTE 28. CALAIS TO COLOGNE, BV LILLE, BOUAT, VALENCIENNES, QUIEVRAIN, MANAGE, CHARLEROI, NAMUR.—RAILWAV. This is the most direct line of route from Calais to the Rhino; but the trains are not in correspondence, and are changed 5 times between Lille and Liege. Calais to Douai and) See Valenciennes / Route 15. Quievrain, Belgian custom-house. Mons Stat. (Rte. 32). 4 trains run dailv, in 14 hr., to Manage. 15.4 Eng. m. Nimy Stat. Obourg Stat. Havre Stat. Bracquegnies Stat. Branch line to Bascoup. 9^ La Louviere Stat. Manage Junction Stat. Branch lines to Brussels by Hal; to Wavre by Nivclles. The Canal do Charleroi is crossed. There arc coal-mines near this. On the Wavre Rly. 1. lies Sencffe , where the Prince of Orange (Wil¬ liam III.), scarce 24, ventured to mea¬ sure his strength (1674) with the veteran Conde. It endpd in a drawn battle, with 27,000 dead left on the field! 7 G-ouy-lez-Pieton Stat. 3 Pont-a-Celles Stat. 2 Luttre Stat. 5 Gossclies Stat., a picturesque town (1.) on a height; 6108 Inhab. The railway cuts through several beds of coal. 3 Roux Stat. Coalpits and tramways. The most interesting portion of the route lies between 3 Marchiennes-au-Pont (Stat.) on tlic lv 194 it CUTE 28 A.—CHARLEROI TO VIRIEUX. Sect* II* Sambre, Pop. 4500. The country is picturesque, and enlivened hy manu¬ factories, chimneys, iron-works, fur¬ naces, coal-mines, and villages. The Brussels and Charleroi canal runs parallel with the railway, and enters the Sambre, which it joins to the Schelde, 2 m. above Charleroi. The railway crosses the Sambre 16 times before reaching Namur. 4 Charleroi Junction St at, Ians: Pays-Bas, small, but good; II. Da¬ rin. Charleroi is a fortress on the Sambre, originally founded by the Marquis of Castel Rodrigo, governor of the Low Countries, 1666, and named after Charles II. of Spain; its walls were razed 1795, and restored 1816, under the direction of the Duke of Wellington. It has 13,000 Inhab. Though itself fettered and confined within ramparts which prevent its in¬ crease, it is the nucleus of a flourish¬ ing manufacturing district, almost de¬ serving the name of one vast town, though covering an area of many miles, whose industry is fed by the productive Charleroi coal-field, the largest in Belgium. In the vicinity about 6000 nail-makers ply their trade, and there are said to be 70 high furnaces, 50 iron foundries, and 90 coal-pits. The Glassworks are the largest in Belgium. There are exten¬ sive iron furnaces at Couliers, near this. The surrounding district abounds in coal; 8345 miners and 118 steam-en¬ gines are employed in the collieries. The Sambre and Meuse Railway branches S. from Charleroi. (Rte. 28 a.) Charleroi to Paris through Maubeuge and St. Quentin. Trains in 8 hrs.; or express 6j hrs. (Rte. 33.) 7 Chatelineau Stat.) Fror Ironworks. 3 Farciennes Stat 5 Tamines Stat. 2 Auvelais Stat. 6 Mouslier Stat. m Charleroi to Namur the railway descends the beautiful val¬ ley of the Sam- hrp. 5 FlorcfFe Stat. The village, of 1500 Inhab., stands on the rt. bank of the Sambre. On a commanding height above rises the picturesque Abbey of Floreffe, founded by Godfrey Count of Namur, 1121. It is now a seminary for priests. The cloisters and hall of the Counts of Namur are worth notice* On the 1., in a woody gorge, lies the Abbey of Malonne, and further on the 1. the new ch. of Beausse. 9 Namur Junction Stat. outside the Porte de Fer, which leads to Louvain (Rte. 24). Liege. (Rte. 24). Aix-la-Ciiapelle (Rte. 36). Cologne Stat. ROUTE 28 a. SAMBRE AND MEUSE RAILWAY—CHAR¬ LEROI TO VIRIEUX AND MORTALME. Length of trunk line about 42 Eng. m. This railway turns off from the Brus¬ sels and Namur Railway between Char¬ leroi and Marchiennes-au-Pont. It passes through the richest mineral dis¬ trict in Belgium, and has a great traffic in coal, coke, iron, and zinc ore. It connects the valley of the Sambre at Charleroi with that of the Meuse a few miles above Givet. 2| La Sambre Stat. (Marchiennes.) 13| Hameau Stat. 18 j Berzee Junct. Stat. (Here a branch railway turns off by 2 Thy-le- Chateau Stat. to 4\ Lancffc Stat.) 2If Walcourt Junct. Stat. Here is a fine 5-aislcd Church, rebuilt 1317 ; the W. tower Rom. 1024-27. See the carved stalls (Renaiss.) with caricatures of monks; confessionals; rood-screen, 1531; font; a baptistery of the 16th .cent.; a miraculous image of the Virgin, Belgium, route 29.— Brussels to Luxemburg and treves. to which. 20,000 pilgrims resort on Trinity Sunday; some line old church plate in the sacristy; reliquaries, monstrances, a throne of silver for the Virgin, &c. [Branch lines diverge to Morialme 12^ Idiom.; to Philippc- ville, Florenne; to Romedennc and Givct in France.] 4 Silenrieux Stat. 7 Cerfontaine Stat. 14 Maricmhourg June. Stat. Branch railways to 1, Couvin; 2, Momignies; 3, to Givct on the Meuse : thence rail to Heims. 9 Vierves Stat. 7 Virieux Stat. on the Meuse. (IT. du Chemin do For.) Diligence to Bocroy, Mcziercs, and Givct. ROUTE 29. BRUSSELS TO LUXEMBURG AND TREVES, BV OTTIGNIES, NAMUR, AND ARLON, —GREAT LUXEMBURG RAILWAY. Great Luxemburg Rly.—opened 1858 and 1861. A very interesting route. It reduces the distance from Brussels to Namur to 35 m., instead of G8 m. by Braine-le-Comte. It is the best mode of approaching the wild and little-trodden district of the Ardennes (Rte. 31), Treves, and the Moselle, which may he descended from Treves. Terminus, Quarticr Leopold. 6 Boitsfort Stat., a village oil the skirts of the Forest of Soignies. 195 4 Groenendael Stat., also in the forest. An hour’s drive to Waterloo 5 m. S. W. Omnibus meets the trains daily (Rte. 24). 5 La Ilulpe Stat., village with paper-mill; near it is a scat of the Marquis do Bethunc. G Ottignies Junct. Stat. Here the lines from Louvain, Charleroi, AYavro, and Manage meet the great Luxemburg line. The country becomes more undulating beyond 5 Mont St. Guibert Stat. Near this are ruins of an old castle within the grounds of M. Deman. 9 Gembloux Stat. The town lies in the hollow: it has some trade in cutlery. Near the Stat. is a large brick building —a Benedictine convent down to 1792 —now a Government stud-house, with largo stables. Near this is the battle field of Ligny. 8 St. Denis Bovesse Stat. Near this iron-ore is quarried to supply the fur¬ naces on the Sarnbre and Meuse. 4 Rhisnes Stat. Through several deep rock cuttings the Rly. approaches Namur, emerging on a lofty embankment into the beau¬ tiful valley of the Sarnbre, which it crosses, as well as the Rly. from Charle¬ roi. (Fine view.) G Namur June. Stat. Here converge the Rlys. from—1. Charleroi (the State line) ; 2. from Liege (Rte. 24) ; 3. from Brussels and Luxemburg; 4. from Di- nant. (Rte. 30.) Namur is described in Rte. 24. The Luxemburg PJg. (to Arlon is 831 m.) crosses the Meuse, from Namur Stat., on a handsome bridge of 3 timber arches resting on stone piers, com¬ manding a fine view. Nannine, Assesso, Natoyo Stats. 1. see the residence of M. d’Omalius, the geologist. 18 m. Ciney Stat., a town of 2000 Inhab. {Inn, Postc.) 9 m. on rt. lies Dinant (Rte. 30). A coach runs thither daily in 1^ hr. Through rock-cuttings to Aye Stat. 1. 8 m. lies Marche {Inn, Cloche d’Or; intolerable), a pretty town (2178 Inhab.), which stood on the march , or limit, between the Duchy K 2 196 ROUTE 29, —ST, HUBERT, Sect. it. of Luxemburg and tlie Principality of Liege; it was capital of the Famenne, j a fertile com district, named after its ancient inliah. the Phcemanni, men¬ tioned by Ccesar. [ rt. The country between Marche and St. Hubert presents very fine forest scenery. This is Shakspeare’s “Forest of Arden;” and so well do parts of it agree with his description of its wood¬ lands that the traveller might almost expect to meet the “banished duke” holding his sylvan court under the greenwood tree, or to surprise the pen¬ sive Jaques meditating by the side of the running brook.] Jemelle Stat. [An omnibus in 20 | min. takes you to rt. Rochefort, an ancient and pictu¬ resque town, partly surrounded by old walls and surmounted by a ruined Castle , where Lafayette was made prisoner by the Austrians, 1792. It commands a fine view over the valley of the Lomme (Inn, II. de l’Etoilc). One hour's drive (3 m.) from Rochefort is Ilan sur Lesse. Guides to the “ Grotto ” will be found near the Church. The ford across the river is not always passable, but there is a foot-bridge. The grotto is situated in the grounds of M. Lejerme, who for access to it exacts payment of 5 fr. each person. You may penetrate its vaulted chambers, hung with stalactites, for a distance of lj m. (See Rte. 31.) ] 22 Grupont Stat. The Rly. enters the picturesque valley of the Lomme, and passes in a curve round the grand old Castle of Mierwart , 1., with 4 towers at the angles, and a donjon on the S. side. It was twice destroyed by the Bishops of Liege on account of forays on their territory committed by its owners. It belonged to the De la Marcks. Poix Stat. [1. Diligence to the Abbey of St. Hubert. 4^m. St. Hubert (Inn, II. de Luxembourg, poor), a miserable little town of 2497 Inhab., originally planted in the midst of the grand forest of St. Hubert, now cleared. The Abbey Church, erected 1538, in Flamboyant-Gothic style, is defaced by an Italian AY. front, elate 1702. It has 5 aisles, vaulted through¬ out ; the choir ends in a chevot, and is considerably raised aboye a crypt of older date: it is internally adorned with precious marbles. St. Hubert, the patron of hunters and sportsmen, was born about 656, of princely rank, and a kinsman of Pepin d’Herstal, the founder of the Abbey. He was guilty of the profane act of hunting on the holy fast of Good Friday. But, while engaged in his favourite diversion on that day, a stag sud¬ denly presented itself to him, bearing a cross growing between its horns. The apparition, which he believed to be miraculous, and to be sent from heaven, recalled him from His evil mode of life. Renouncing the world and its plea¬ sures, he passed the rest of his days in penance and prayer; and, devoting his fortune to the church, acquired such a degree of sanctity as to work miracles, not merely by his hands, but by his garments; so that even a shred of his mantle possesses virtue to cure mad¬ ness and hydrophobia, if placed on the patient’s head: the consequence was an immense resort of pilgrims, conti¬ nued to the present clay, and great influx of wealth. The body of St. Hubert was deposited in the abbey, 825, but is supposed to have been burnt in the conflagration caused by the French Calvinists, 1568. Never¬ theless a handsome altar-tomb, with 8 bas-reliefs of events from his life, and a reclining effigy in marble—one of the finest works of G. Geefs—was erected 1850 by King- Leopold. In the Tre'sor is the Saint’s miracle-working Stole, the application of which still cures about 100 patients in a year, and other relics — his horn, crozicr, and comb. In ancient times the abbot of St. Hubert paid an annual tribute of 3 couple of hounds to the King of France, to signify his dependence on the French crown. The remaining Convent buildings are now occupied as a governmental Reformatory .] Longlier Stat. 1. about 1 m. lies Neuf- chateau, an uninteresting town of 1790 Inhab., a market for cattle and grain, near which are large slate quarries. Diligence in 5 hrs. to the Castle of Bouillon, 10 m. AY. (See Rte. 31.) 43T Avion Junct. Stat. (Inns: II. du Norcl, clean;—H. Schneider)—a rapidly 1 Belgium, increasing town of 5455 Inhab., sup¬ posed to be the Roman Orolanum. By the partition of the Duchy of Lux¬ emburg, in conformity with the Treaty of 1831, two-thirds of it have fallen to the share of King Leopold, and Ar- lon is become the capital of the Belgian part of the province. Fine view from the terrace of the Capucin convent. Diligences down the valley of the Scmoi to Florcnville (Rtc. 31) ; to Liege ; to Spa. Railways to Longwy ; to Luxemburg. Stcrpenich Stat. The Dutch frontier commences at Bettingen Stat. From Arlon to the frontier German is the language of the inhabitants. Bertrange Stat. oh Luxemburg Junction Stat. (Buffet, 20 min. halt— Inns : H. de Cologne; H. de l’Europe), a strong fortress of the German Confederation, with 12,000 Inhab., and a garrison of 6000 Prussians; is capital of a duchy belonging to Holland. It will well repay a halt of several hours, or a night’s sojourn. A carriage to drive about it (2 hrs.) costs 10 fr. The situation of Luxemburg is very sin¬ gular ; it has been compared with that of Jerusalem. Its extent and the ex¬ traordinary character of its fortifications combine to make it highly picturesque. The traveller from the side of Brussels comes upon it unawares, so completely is it wedged in between high escarped rocks. The upper town occupies the top of a rocky peninsula, joined to the neighbouring country only on theW., or side of the Neu-Thor. On the other 2 sides it is isolated by rocky gorges 200 ft. deep, crossed by several viaducts, and watered by the streams of Pcters- burn and Alzctte, in whose depths the industrious lower town, or suburbs of Grund, Clausen, and Pfaffenthal (with mills and dye-works), nestle. On en¬ tering from the German side it is diffi¬ cult to comprehend how these are to be surmounted, or the drawbridges reached, which appear to hang sus¬ pended in the air. The communication between the upper and lower towns is by flights of steps, and by streets carried 197 up in zigzags, so as to be passable for a carriage. The defences, partly exca¬ vated in the solid rock, have been in¬ creased and improved by the successive possessors of Luxemburg, by the Spa¬ niards (1697), Austrians (1713), French (1684 and 1795), and Dutch, rendering it, in the words of Carnot, “ la plus forte place de 1’Europe apres Gibraltar : —lc seul point d’appui pourattaquer la France du cote de la Moselle.” Under the direction of the German Diet, it has been entirely repaired and greatly strengthened since 1830, and anew fort has been built outside the gate to Treves. The most remarkable part of the forti¬ fications is that called Lc Roue , a pro¬ jecting headland of rock, hollowed out from top to bottom, and commanding with its loopholes and embrasures, ob¬ servable in every part, the 2 valleys which it separates up and down. Its casemates in 3 stories, one above the other, entirely excavated in the solid rock, are capable of holding 4000 men, and resemble those of Gibraltar. It is divided into 3 parts by 2 deep ditches, and is mined in all directions. From the Schlossbriicke, which connects it with the upper town, there is a striking view. Other good points of view are the Garden of the Military Casino , Fontaines Garden outside the New Gate, and the Fetschenlxof at the Treves Gate. The Grand Duchy of Luxemburg was given to the King of Holland, at the Treaty of Vienna (1815), in considera¬ tion of his abandoning bis claim upon Nassau. The House of Luxemburg is highly distinguished in history; it gave 5 emperors to Germany, kings to Bo¬ hemia, Poland, and Hungary, several queens to France, and numerous exalted prelates to the church. The Ch. of Notre Dame was built by the Jesuits in the 16th cent. It con¬ tains a miracle-working image of the Virgin. Here is the mausoleum of John the Blind, King of Bohemia, killed by the English at the battle of Cressy, from whom our Prince of Wales gains his motto (Ich dicn). He was binned here; but his body, having been 6 times removed, and at the French Revolu¬ tion transferred to a museupi ? was at ROUTE 29. —LUXEMBURG. 198 ROUTE 30.—NAMUR TO DINANT. Sect. II. length confided to the Iving of Prussia, and by him deposited in a grave at Castel on the Sarre, in Prussia. The modern Jesuits' Church deserves notice for its carved woodwork pulpit and painted windows. In the lower town is a Gateway , sole relic of the palace of the Spanish Stadt- holder, Count Peter Ernest of Mansfeldt (1515 -1G04). The two sides of the gorge of the Alzettc are now united by the grand Viaduct of the Treves Illy., which passes astride the suburb of Grand. „A walk through the valley called Pul- vermuhlen Thai , through the Porte do Pisse, will well repay the traveller. Railways. —To Treves; to Namur; to Thionville and Metz ; to Dickirch. [The Railway to Dickirch (22 m.) is carried across the valley on a colossal viaduct. Trains in If hr. to Dickirch Stat. (Inn, II. des Ardennes). 5 m. from this is Vianden ( dun, H. de Luxem¬ bourg), an old town of 1G00 Inhab., with a very extensive Castle in a pic¬ turesque position, an ancient possession of the House of Nassau, on a rock above the Our river. It was in good pre¬ servation until 1820, when it was sold for 32,000 £L, and unroofed, but was bought back by the King of Holland, who is Count of V., in 1840, for less. It has a triple circuit of walls; an octagon chapel of 2 stories, above for the seigneur, below for the retainers. In the hall are 2 fine Romanesque windows. 13 m. from Vianden, ascending the Our to its junction with the Sure at Wallendorf, and crossing the Sure to P>eaufort Castle, is Echtcrnach (Inn, Hirseh). The ancient Abbey Church is in miserable plight, roofless, and blackened with the smoko of a kiln. The arches of the nave rest on quasi- Corinthian columns. On Tuesday after Whit-Sunday there is a pilgrimage hither, and procession, in which old and young, men and women, each separated, perform a curious dance. St. Willebrocl is a basilica of the 11th centy. (1017-31). See an old painting of St. W., with the abbey in the back¬ ground. The road is continued along the Sure to Wasscrbillig Stat. on the rly. to Treves, 3 m. from the monument of Igch] The rly. follows for some distance the course of the river Sure as far as its junction with the Moselle at Wasscrbillig Stat. The Prussian frontier is crossed at the bridge over the Sure, close to which is the custom¬ house. (§ 47.) G m. above Treves the road passes the very remarkable Roman monument of Tgel , described in Rte. 41. The village stands opposite to the junction of the Saar (Savarus) with the Moselle. Conz, a village near its mouth, derives its name from the Emperor Constantine, who had a summer palace here, traces of which still exist in the foundations of brick walls, towers, &c. The Roman bridge over the Saar was blown up by the French, 1G75. Conz Janet. Stat., where the Rly. from Saarburg, Saarbruck, and Saarlouis falls in. 2 Treves, Terminus near the bridge (Rte. 41), on 1. bank of the Moselle. ROUTE 30. " NAMUR TO DINANT AND GIVET—THE MEUSE.—RAIL. Railway, about 30 Eng. m. 4 trains daily, 1^ to 2 hrs. Steamers twice a day in summer, from Dinant to Na¬ mur, in 2 hrs., returning in 3 hrs. The Meuse above Namur is not less interesting, though less visited, than ROUTE 30.— DISTANT. 109 Belgium. below it. For a considerable distance tlie river is hemmed in by magnificent escarpments of limestone, resembling in height and form the banks of the Avon at Clifton, and the vales of Derbyshire. The cultivation of the graceful hop here supplants that of the vine. The road ascends the 1. bank as far as Di- nant, where it crosses the river by a stone bridge. Several villas and pretty chateaux are passed. Jambcs Stat. Lustin Stat. Godinnc S tat. (rt.) Between 2 and 3 m. below Di- nant rises the Castle of Poilvache (i.e. Pille-vache, its owners being foragers of cattle), once “ la terreur des Dinan- tois,” now in ruins, of great extent, and finely situated. It was taken and destrovod by Bp. Jean do Heynsberg, 14-29. ‘ 1. Upon the top of a rock, ^ m. be¬ low Dinant, stands the ruined castle of Bouvignes. During the siege of this place by the French under the Due de Nevcrs (1554) 3 beautiful women re¬ tired with their husbands into the tower of Crevecmur, hoping to assist and en¬ courage the garrison by their presence. The defence was obstinate, but at last all were slain but the 3 heroines, who, unwilling to submit to the bru¬ tality of the conquerors, threw them¬ selves from the top of the tower, in sight of the French, and were dashed to pieces on the rocks. Yvoir Stat. rt. Dinant Stat. {Inns: Post, best; Tete d’Or), a town of 7136 Inhab., ro¬ mantically situated at the base of lime¬ stone cliffs, to which the fortifications and the chapel on their summit add in¬ terest. There are caverns in the con¬ torted convolutions of the limestone strata. Winding stairs, cut in the rock, render the cliffs accessible from terrace to terrace nearly up to the walls of the fortress. The pretty walks behind the Casino are readily opened to strangers. Permission to enter the citadel is also given. The Church is distinguished by a singular bulb-shaped steeple, its in¬ terior is interesting, chiefly first Pointed, and good. The door of the baptistery, and another which is blocked up, are of the 10th or 11th cent, The inhabitants of Bouvigne were livals of those of Dinant in the manu¬ facture of articles of brass and copper, kettles, &c. (called from the place dinan- deries) , and the animosity thus created led to bloody and long-continued feuds between them. In defiance of their neighbours, the men of Bouvigne built the castle of Crevecoeur, and those of Dinant, to annoy them in return, erected that of Montorgueil, which they were afterwards compelled to destroy. Philip the Good, irritated by some act of aggression, besieged Dinant with an army of 30,000 men. The inhabitants, when summoned to surrender, replied by hanging the messengers sent with the proposals. The Duke, enraged at this outrage, was preparing to take the town by assault, when it surrendered. Ho gave it up to pillage for 3 days, and then set fire to it; and while the flames were still raging, ordered 800 of the inhabitants, bound two and two, to bo thrown into the Meuse. Though weak from illness, he was carried in a litter to a spot whence he could feast his eyes on the conflagration and horrible exe¬ cution ; and, not satisfied with this act of vengeance, he sent workmen to pull down the ruined walls after the fire, that not a vestige of Dinant might remain. Ilis son, Charles the Bold, who succeeded 3 years after, allowed the town to be rebuilt; but it was again sacked, burnt, and demolished, in 1554, by the French under the Due de Nevcrs, — a misfortune occasioned principally by the insolence of the townspeople in replying to the summons to surrender by a message to the effect that, if the Duke and the King of Franco fell into their hands, they would roast their hearts and livers for breakfast. Omnibus to Ciney Stat. on the Luxemburg Ply. (Rte. 29). Excursions from Dinant: a. to the grotto of Hans sur Lesse, a drive of 4 hrs., described in Rte. 31;—6. to the ruined Castle of Montaigle , near Som- miere, 1. side of Meuse, beautifully situated in the rocky valley (5 m.) of the Floye : from Montaigle you may walk down the picturesque vale of the Sausaye to the ruined Castle of Poilvache;— c. to the ^Chateau do Walzims, upon the 200 ROUTE 31. —THE ARDENNES. Lessc (Rtc. 31);— d. to Chalcux , a group of hovels, where some extra¬ ordinary rocks rise above the Lessc, projecting like spires, and one, LaChan- delle, like a pillar from the face of the rock. About Jfm. above Dinant the high road goes through a kind of natural portal, formed by the abrupt termination of a long narrow ridge or wall of rock, pro¬ jecting from the precipitous cliffs on the h, and on the rt. by a pointed and bold isolated mass of rock, called the * Roche a Bayard , from the horse of the Quatro Fils d’Aymon, who left the print of his hoof on the rock, when he plunged into the Ardenne forest in search of his masters. The cleft was widened by order of Louis XIV., to facilitate the passage of the road up the valley. Near this are quarries of black marble. Immediately above lies Anseremme, a pretty town with over¬ hanging cliffs. Here the Lesse falls into the Meuse; its rocky valley is very picturesque and well deserves to be explored. The Lesse descends, 400 ft. from the Trou do Ilan, in a series of falls called Buttes. “ The finest point on the road to Givet is about 3 m. above Dinant, at the Cha¬ teau of Freyr, a country seat belonging to the Duchcsse de Beaufort-Spontin, on 1. bank of the river, at the base of cliffs and richly-wooded hills, which are fur¬ rowed by ravines. Within the grounds is a natural grotto, abounding in stalac¬ tites, and singularly lighted by an aperture in the rock. Here a Treaty of Commerce was signed between Louis XIV. and Charles II. of Spain, 1675. Opposite to Freyr the cliffs of limestone rise directly from the Meuse, much broken up, presenting striking forms and outlines; occasionally the upper part of the rock projects beyond the per¬ pendicular, so as completely to overhang the river. The banks present lofty cliffs and romantic scenery as far as Flamignoul. The view of Givet from the top of the hill, surmounted by the road in approaching it, is very pic¬ turesque ; the fortifications and wind¬ ings of the river appear to great advan¬ tage.”— T. T. Rail, Dinant to Givet— 4 trains, in Sect. II. 35 min. The line runs at a distance from the Meuse. At Ilastiercs Stat. is the 12th cent. Church of a ruined abbey, containing 2 miracle-working Virgins ! To see the fine scenery of the Meuse, you ought to take a punt at one of the neighbour¬ ing hamlets, and float down to Dinant. It is lost to those who run by road or rail. Agimont Stat. 21 kil. Givet Junct. Stat. — Inns’. Lc Mont d’ Or; good beer. — Givet and Charlemont may be regarded as parts of one town, prettily situated on oppo¬ site banks of the Meuse, but connected by a bridge. They belong to France, lying just within the frontier : the po¬ pulation is 4000: the fortifications were constructed by Vauban. The for¬ tress of Charlemont (on the 1. bank) is placed on a high and commanding rock of limestone, which is sometimes of so fine a texture as to be quarried for marble. (See Handbook for France.) Railways— to Charlevillc, Heims, and Paris ; to Charleroi by Yiricux and by Morialme. ROUTE 31. THE ARDENNES.—DINANT TO HANS SUR LESSE, ST. HUBERT, AND BOUILLON. From Namur up the valley of tho Meuse by rail or steamer (ltte. 30) to Dinant. Hence ascend the picturesque valley of the lesse —which flows in a series of step-like falls called Buttes, by 201 Belgium. route 31. —-dinant Chateau de "Walzens (Yalsain), Chaleux (Chalais), where the rocks assume the forms of obelisks and spires. The high road continues through Celles, where is a curious and well-preserved Church of the 11th cent., with W. tower and octagon spire; beneath are crypts. Ardenne, a simple villa (or hunting- seat) of King Leopold, situated on the slope of a charming valley, the natural beauties of which have been enhanced by the taste of its royal owner. Be¬ yond Almars, at Avenaye, travellers turn aside if they intend to visit the cavern called Trou de Han , about 20 m. S.E. from Din ant (3^ hrs. drive; a carriage to and fro costs 25 fr.). The excursion occupies a day going and returning from Dinant. The proprie¬ tor levies a tax of 5 frs. from each person. The valley of the Lesse is stopped up at Han by a rocky harrier stretching across it, hut the river preci¬ pitates itself into a cavern at the foot of this rock, called le Gouffre de Belvaux, and forces a passage through it. The cavern is accessible through the natural arch out of which the Lesse issues, in a boat kept by a man residing hard by, who serves as a guide, and provides torches. It is a wild scene as the boatman lights wisps of straw, and as each burns down flings the lighted end into the stream. The cave consists of a series of chambers opening into one another—some high, others Ioav, some shaped like a syphon upright or inverted; in places it contains some fine stalactites. The first hall or chamber is lighted by the reflection cast from the surface of the water up to the roof. The effect is very brilliant at 8 or 9 o’clock in the morning, when the sun is opposite to the entrance. After you leave the boat there is some scrambling to get through. You should borrow one of the blouses of the country to protect the clothes from being covered with mud. It takes about 2 hrs. to explore the cave: you come out at the opposite side. The straw used by the guides to light up is quite insufficient. On the whole, many will not think the grotto worth the time and expense. At all events it is best to enter by the nearest entrance, and not to allow the guides to drag you over the hills 2 m. TO HANS SUR LESSE. to the distant one. Carriage and pair from Rochefort and back' 10 francs. There is no tolerable inn at Lesse. From the Trou de Han a vile cross¬ road touches Lomprctz and Nieupont (Madame Randollet’s inn), about 16 m. from Dinant. A cross-road leads from Hans sur L., by Wavrulle, Grupont, and Bure, a dis¬ tance of 12 or 15 m., to St. Hubert. Rte. 29. There are cross-roads from St. Hu¬ bert to Poix station on the railroad from Namur to Luxemburg (Rte. 29); thence by Libin, Yillance, and Paliseul to Bouillon is about 25 m. ; road unin¬ teresting. Bouillon (Inns : Poste, very good; charges fair: D. 2 fr., Br. 1 fr. H. du Nord, homely, hut comfortable. This is a very interesting and picturesque town of 2500 Inhab. ; it is beautifully situated at the bottom of a long valley washed by the Semoi, which winds round a rocky promontory crowned by the extensive Castle of Bouil¬ lon, repaired and restored since 1827, and converted into a military prison. It will well repay a visit, being nearly as much an excavation as a building. The dungeons are hewn out of the rock. A recess cut in the rock is called the “ Chair of Godfrey de Bouil¬ lon.” There is a spring near the top of the rock, and a well descending to the level of the Semoi. 2 bridges connect the ancient Availed town with the modern toAvn. The walks in the Avoods around the toAvn are A r ery pleasing. The best view of Bouillon is from tho Florenville road. Bouillon, once capital of the duchy of the same name, Avas pawned by Godfrey of Bouillon to the Bishop of Liege, to raise funds for the first Crusade. In after times the bishops refused to alloAV it to be redeemed, Avhich gave rise to a long series of feuds and fights be¬ tween them and Godfrey’s descendants, so that the territory of Bouillon became truly debateable ground. At length Louis XIY. directed Marechal Crequi to take possession of the toAA r n, “ not,” says his published declaration, “ for the purpose of prejudicing the Bishops of Liege, but for the protection of France, K 3 202 ROUTE 32.— BRUSSELS TO PARIS. Sect. II which is not sufficiently fortified in that quarter.” Louis, having thus realised the fable of the Oyster, protested, be¬ fore the Congress of Nimwegen, that he was prepared to resign the province as soon as the umpires had decided to which of the contending parties it ought to belong. The dispute, however, was never settled, and the House of La Tour d* Auvergne assumed the sove¬ reignty and title of Dukes of Bouillon, with the consent of Louis (1696). The town was ceded to the Netherlands by the Treaty of Vienna. Diligence daily to Libramont and Longlicr Stats. It is 15 m. by Herbeumont and Aignan, above which is fine rocky scenery, from Bouillon to Florcnvillc. Inn: IP. du Commerce; good and com¬ fortable quarters ; landlady English. 2000 Inhab. 5 m. from Florenville is the ruined Abbey d’Orval , destroyed by the French army under Loison, who spent 10 days on its pillage in 17 94. The remains arc not of great architectural interest, but are extensive, and their situation very pleasing. They stand close to the French frontier, in a narrow secluded dell, overgrown with brushwood and trees, skirted on the AY. by a beech forest. It is enclosed by a range of terraces, which on E. and AY. rise into tiers one above the other, 20 to 30 ft. wide, each about of a mile long. The boundary wall, 20 ft. high, is still perfect. The key must be got from a cabaret near the ruins, \ m. distant from them ; charge J fr. On one of the highest terraces to the AY. stands the original Romanesque Chapel. The Church , a later specimen of the same stylo, not large, and plain, with a rose window in the S. transept, stands on a level with the conventual buildings. The Kitchen , an oblong, larger than that of Glastonbury, was furnished with two chimneys, and lighted by two early pointed windows. The largest pile of building, probably of 17th century, may have been the refectory: sec beneath it a well-lighted crypt forming enormous cellars. The Abbey belonged to the Benedictine Order, who carried on ex¬ tensive and useful ironworks. They were famous locksmiths. To furnish motive power they dammed up tho stream which traverses the enclosure and fills the fish-pond, forming a tank m. long, filling up tho valley from sido to sido. At Yirton, a thriving town on the way to Arlon, is a good Inn (Cheval Blanc). Neufchateau is an uninteresting town (25<00 Inhab.). Inns , wretched. ROUTE 32. BRUSSELS TO I’ARIS, BY HAL, MONS, MAUBEUGE, 1IAUTMONT, ST. QUENTIN, —RAILWAY. 197 Eng. m. Two express trains daily, in 6£ hours. This is the shortest way to Paris. Terminus at Brussels, Station du Midi, near the S. Boulevard. On quitting the station the Boule¬ vard is crossed, the Port de Ilal is seen on the 1., and the river Sonne is passed near Foret. Good view of Bruxelles. 6 Ruysbroeck Stat., birthplace of AYm. de Rubruquis (de Ruysbroeck), a monk sent by St. Louis to the Khan of Tartary, who has left an account of his travels; also of the architect of the tower of Brussels town-hall. The railway runs side by sido with the Canal de Charleroi, whose bed is in some places higher than it. There are many cuttings on this line, 3 Loth Stat, 'Belgium. c route 32.- 5 Hal Stat. (Inn: II. clcs Pays-Bas.) Hal is a town of 7800 Inliab. on the Sonne and tlie Canal de Charleroi. Visit, by all means, the Church of Notre Dame (formerly of St. Martin ), a rich Gothic edifice (1341-1409), containing a chapel resorted to by pilgrims on ac¬ count of a black miracle-working- image of the Virgin, of wood, 2 ft. high, which lias acquired enormous wealth from the offerings of pious devotees, including gold plate and other gifts from Charles V., Maximilian I., Pope Julius II., Henry VIII. &c. In a recess under the tower, railed off, are 33 cannon¬ balls, which, having been aimed at the church during the bombard¬ ment, were caught by the Virgin in her robe spread over the town to protect it! The High Altar has a re- redos carved by Mone, a native artist, 1533, unequalled in the Netherlands. It is of marble, in the best style of the Renaissance. Its base is the deposi¬ tory for the Host: on the next stage is St. Martin dividing his cloak: the 2 lower rows of bas-reliefs represent the 7 Sacraments, admirable as works of art; the whole is surmounted by the pelican. In the octagon baptistery attached to the ch. is the gorgeous font of brass, covered by a spire studded with sta¬ tuettes and groups in high-relief, of the Baptism of Christ, St. Martin, &c. It was cast at Tournay, 1467, by an artist named Lefebvre. The sacristy contains old votive plate— e. g. a silver monstrance given by Henry VIII. on the capture of Tournay, before he seceded from Popery, &c., and much curious furniture. 5 Tubise Stat. A tunnel precedes 11 Brainc le Comte Stat.—a town of 4400 Inhab., named after Count Baldwin, who bought it from the monks of St. Waudru, at Mons, 1158. See, in the Church of St. Gery , an altarpiece with rich carvings in Renaissance style (1577). The district around furnishes some of the finest flax which is anywhere produced : it is employed in the manu¬ facture of Brussels lace. A few miles to the N.W. is Stecnkerke , where Wil¬ liam III. was defeated by the Duke of -HAL. MONS. 203 Luxemburg, in 1692, with a loss of 7000 men. Hotel Garin. A railway is carried hence to Manage, Charleroi, and Namur, 38f- m. (Rte. 28.) 6 Soignies Stat. {Inn ; H. des 3 Rois). This town of 6800 Inliab. has perhaps the oldest Ch. in Belgium, St. Vincent Maldegaire , founded 965, and still retaining- portions of 10th centy. work. It is a basilica on the plan of a Latin cross. The nave has a lofty triforium. Ohs. the tomb and shrine at the end of the choir, and a tabernacle of marble, in the style of the Renais¬ sance, in a side chapel. There are tombstones of the 13th and 14th centy. in the cemetery. Soignies has given its name to the forest which reaches to Waterloo. The railway makes an abrupt bend W. to reach 13 Jurbize Junction Stat. About 5 m. W. lies Bclceil, chateau of the Prince de Ligne. (Rte. 15.) Here a railway branches off to Ath, Tournay, and Calais. (See Rte. 15.) To reach the Mons Station, the fortifications are cut through to admit the passage of the railway. 12 Mons. (Bergiien in Flemish.) —Inns: Couronne, best; Aigle Noir. good. Mons, the capital of the pro¬ vince of Hainault (German, Ilenne- gau; Flemish, Hennegouw), is a for¬ tified town of 26,500 Inhab., owing its origin to a castle built here by Julius Csesar during his campaign against the Gauls. After the siege in 1680, the King of Spain, to whom the town belonged, rewarded the citizens for their courageous resistance, by con¬ ferring a peerage on every member of the corporation. The fortifications were razed by the Empr. Joseph II., but have been renewed and strengthened since 1818. The facilities for laying the country round the town completely under water, by admitting the river Trouille, add greatly to its defensive capabilities. Nevertheless their demo¬ lition has been decreed. Mons derives great advantages from the numerous and productive Coal¬ mines by which it is surrounded; a great many steam-engines are employed to pump up the water and extract the coal, which is exported in large quan- 204 Sect. IT. ROUTE 32a. —MONS TO VALENCIENNES. titles to Paris. In 1840, 26,000 per¬ sons were employed in 37 6 coalpits of the coalfield of Mons. There are also in the neighbourhood extensive bleaching grounds. The principal building is the Church of St. Waudru (Waltrudis), a handsome Gothic edifice, begun in 1450, but not completed till 1580, on your 1. hand as you enter Mons from the railway. The interior is well worth notice. It is 80 ft. high. Dates: choir, with fine polygonal apse, 1502; transepts, 1519; naves, aisles, 1521-89. The elegant and lofty reeded piers without capitals send forth a network of ribs over the roof. The high altar is decorated with marble bas-reliefs from the New Testament, cut by an Italian artist, 1556, which were mutilated at the French revo¬ lution. Here is also a Tabernacle. Some good stained glass of 16th centy. in the windows of choir and transepts. On the highest ground in the city, not far from St. Waudru, is a tower or beffroi built in 1662 on the site of Caesar’s Castrum, as is reported. The castle to which it belongs is now a lunatic asylum. The Gothic Town Hall was begun in 1458 ; the tower is a later addition, and the whole ranks far below other municipal edifices of Belgium. Mons was the native place of Or¬ lando Lassus, the celebrated musician of the 16th cent., and has erected a sfafin? of him in bronze, 1853. A com¬ munication is opened between Mons and the Schelde by the Canal de Conde; a new branch, called Canal d’Antoing, has been cut to avoid the French ter¬ ritory altogether, and to enter the Schelde lower down, at a point where both banks of that river belong to Belgium. [About 10 m. S. from Mons, within the French frontier, was fought the bloody battle of Malplaquet , 1709, where the Duke of Marlborough and Prince Eu¬ gene beat the French, though with a loss of 20,000 men : a murderous con¬ flict and a useless victory.] The stations beyond Mons are— Cuesmes Stat.—Framcries Stat. Quevy Stat.—Belgian frontier. Feignies Stat.—French frontier. (See Handbook of France.) Maubeuge Janet. Stat. Here the ex¬ press trains to Paris from Brussels and Cologne unite. Hautmont Stat. St. Quentin Stat. Paris Terminus. (Sec Handbook of Paris.) ROUTE 32a. MONS TO VALENCIENNES. The Pail wag, on quitting Mons, crosses the river Trouille, and runs not very far from the Canal de Conde and the sluices of St. Ghislain, by means of which the whole country around might be inundated. 4 Jemappes Stat. This village is celebrated for the victory gained by 50,000 French, under Gen. Dumouriez and the Duke de Chartres, afterwards King Louis-Philippe, 6th Nov. 1792, over 22,000 Austrians. Three coalpits were filled with dead bodies of men and horses after the battle. The result of this victory was to make the French masters of Belgium. A stone has been set up close to the post-road to mark the scene of the battle. 5 Saint Ghislain Stat. Near this is Hornu , a mining village of 5448 In- hab., founded by the late M. Degorge Lcgrand. It is composed principally of miners and iron-forgers, who are main¬ tained by the mines of coal and iron Belgium. hero. Steam-engines arc manufactured to a considerable extent here. The village is built with straight streets on a uniform plan, the houses being of the same height, around 2 squares, in the centre of one of which is the steam- engine which drains the mine and supplies the houses with hot and cold water. This country resembles much the neighbourhood of Manchester and Holton : the roads are black with coal- dust, which in windy weather begrimes the face and garments of the traveller, and the dwellings partake of the same hue. Every cottage seems as populous as a hive. 2 Boussu Stat. In the fine Church surmounted by a spire is the chantry of the family of Hcnin, lords of Boussu, and a monument in alabaster of Jean de H. and his lady. The chateau be¬ longs to the Marquis de Caraman. 4 Thulin Stat. 4 Quievrain is the station of the Belgian custom-house. About ^ m. farther on, the small river Aunellc marks the boundary of France. Blanc Misseron Stat. 1^ Valenciennes (Etc. 15). For the Railway hence to Paris, see Hand¬ book for Travellers in France. From Brussels to Paris takes 11 hrs. ROUTE 33. BRUSSELS TO PARIS, BY OTTIGNIES, CHARLEROI, ERQTJEL1NNES, ST. QUEN¬ TIN, AND CRE1L. 215 m.—2 trains daily—the express in 8 hours—starting from the Great Luxemburg Railway terminus, Q.uartier Leopold. That line is described in Rte. 29, and is followed as far as Ottignies June. Stat. 205 Here branch Railways—from AVavrc and Louvain; from Ni voiles ; from Manage and Mons ; and from Charleroi —meet the Great Luxemburg Rly. 3 Court St. Etienne Stat. 5 La Roche Stat. 3 Yillers la Ville Stat. is close to the extensive ruins of the Abbey of Tillers, founded by St. Bernard 1146, suppressed by the French 1796. The rly. is carried through the boundary wall and skirts the abbot’s garden, leaving on rt.— The * Church, begun 1225, dedicated 1272, 338 ft. long, and built with all the purity of the Early English Gothic; the tracery is imperfect (see Fergusson ). Many of the conventual buildings, the Cloisters, Refectory, &c., remain, very interesting to the student, and agreeable to the wayfarer to saunter among. rt. 3 m. lies Genappe. Rte. 24. 4 Tilly Stat. This was the birthplace (1559) of Count Tzerclas do Tilly, general of the 30 years war ; opponent of Gustavus Adolphus. 3 Marbais Stat. 2 Ligny Stat. Near this occurred the repulse of the Prussians, under Bliicher, by Buonaparte, who drove them, after an obstinate resistance, from their position at the village, on the road to Sombreffe, 2 days before the battle of AVaterloo, June 16, 1815. The Duke of AVellington visited Blii¬ cher a short while before the com¬ mencement of the action at the AA 7 ind- mill of Bry, and here concerted with him measures of future co-operation on the 18th. The Duke’s practised eye perceived at once the faulty disposition of the Prussian army, and, fearing mischief, he rode back to bring up supports. The battle raged for 5 hrs. in and around St. Amand and Ligny. After the French had broken through the Prussian line, Bliiclicr headed a charge of cavalry in person; but, his horse having been shot under him, he was thrown to the ground, and 2 French regiments of Cuirassiers rode over him. In spite of his defeat, however, he rallied his army within 1£ m. of the held of battle. The French did not dare to follow, and he maintained his ROUTE 33. — BRUSSELS TO PARIS. 206 ROUTE 33. —BRUSSELS TO PARIS. Sect. II. communications with the English, and made good his retreat to Wavre: no beaten army ever rallied quicker. Two other battles had been fought on nearly the same ground in 1622 and 1690. 4 Fleurus (Stat.) has been a constant battle-field. In 1623 the Spaniards under Gonzales beat the forces of Mansfeld and the Duke of Brunswick ; in 1690 the French under Marshal Luxemburg defeated the Prince of Wal¬ do ck ; and it gives its name to another victory gained by the French (under Jourdain) over the Austrians in 1794. 5 Bansart Stat. 3 Lodclinsart Stat. 5 Charleroi Junction Stat. Etc. 28. 4 Marchienncs (Zone) Stat. in vale of Sambre. 6 Landelics Stat. Hums of Alno Abbey. 6 Tiiuin Stat. 4100 Inhab. 2 Lobbes Stat. Burned Abbey. 6 La Buissiere Stat. 4 Solre-sur-Sambre Stat. 2 Erquelinnes Stat. Belg. Cust.- house. 1 Jeumont (frontier) Stat. 9 Maubeuge Stat. Hautmont Stat. Landrecies Stat. St. Quentin Stat. Creil Stat. Paris Stat. See Handbook of France. ( 207 ) SECTION III. GERMANY, 28. Passports. — 29. Inns ancl Expenses. —30. Beds. — 31. Valcts-dc-Placc. — 32. Custom-house League, Zollvercin; Coinage. — 33. Distances, Travelling Maps .— 34. Modes of Travelling, Posting, Laufzettel. ■ — 35. Diligences, or Eilvc'dgcn. — 36. Voiturier, or Lohnkutscher. — 37. Railroads. — 38. Baggage. — 39. Succinct Account of Germany. —40. Some Peculiarities of German Manners, 'Titles, Saluta¬ tions, Recreations, Public Gardens, Kirmes, The Tumpikemen, Travelling Journey¬ men .— 41. German Watering-places. — 42. Music. — 43. Clubs \ and Reading- rooms. — 44. Burial-grounds. [N.B.—The information contained in this Section is of a general character and applicable to the whole of Germany. The details peculiar to different states of Germany will he found respectively under the heads—Prussia, Saxony, Bavaria, Austria, &c.] 28. Passports and Police Regulations. Travellers should he prepared to show their passports to the police on de¬ mand. Few eases now-a-days occur in which this is required. Innkeepers are compelled to submit to the inspection of the police the daily arrivals and departures of their guests ; and not merely the name, surname, and country, hut frequently the age, condition, whether married or single, pro¬ fession, religion, motives for travelling, and other particulars, arc required. A hook (called das Fremden Buch, Stranger’s Book), ruled into columns, and methodically classed, is presented to the traveller for him to fill up. Rather more attention to the passport is necessary in the Austrian dominions ; it may he prudent to obtain an Austrian minister’s signature before entering the country. 29. Inns. Great care has been taken in this work to furnish the traveller with the names of the best inns throughout Germany and the North of Europe, derived princi¬ pally from personal experience, or that of friends, and trusting as little as possible to the usual recommendations of Guide Books, unless they were ascertained to be well founded. As it is the first information which a traveller requires on reaching a place, the names of the inns in all instances stand first. German Innkeepers arc, on the whole, of a higher class, and hold a superior 208 29. INNS. Sect. III. position in their respective towns, to that occupied by persons of a similar calling in England. They usually preside at their own tables-d’hote, entering familiarly into conversation with their guests. It is rarely necessary to make a bargain beforehand with a German landlord, a precaution almost indispensable in Italy. When, however, a traveller intends to take up his residence for several weeks, or even 6 or 8 days, in a hotel, it is a good plan, as well as customary, to come to an agreement with the landlord, who, under these circumstances, is usually willing to make an abatement of one-third from his usual charges. It is also a common practice to purchase a dozen or twenty tickets for the table-d’hote, which, when taken in such a number, are charged at a lower rate. The apartments are classed, as to price, according to the stories on which they are situated, the size, and the look-out—the highest and those turned to the hack being least expensive. Average charges of inns in Northern Germany:— In Prussia. Frankfort-, Thalers. Silvc, r gros. Nassau, 13aden, &c. Booms, varying ac- j cording to size > from 1 to 10 or 12 = from 1 f. 12 kr. to 36 kr.. and situation - - j Beds ----- - H Dinner at tahle-d’hote ... 16 to 1 th, i —. — 1 f. to 1 f. 48 kr. •-in private room from 1 to 1 10 = 1 f. 24 kr. to 2 f. 20 kr. Tea or coffee, a portion for one 6 to 12 = 24 kr. to 30 kr. Breakfast a la fourchette - - - 15 r - 36 kr. to 48 kr. Half a bottle of wine - - 5 *—~ 18 kr. Servants - - - - - - - 5 to 7 These prices do not apply to Austria and Southern Germany. For those countries refer to Handbook for South Germany. Persons who travel for pleasure must expect to pay liberally, and any attempt on their part to make close bargains will generally fail; there is a sort of ordinary charge, which the traveller soon finds out, and, with common tact and judgment, he may manage to visit most parts of the Continent without being entangled in annoying squabbles ; hut should a hill contain items of an unreason¬ ably high price, instead of pointing them out to the waiter, and clamorously insisting on an immediate reduction, he should go himself to the master’s room, and speak to him when no servants are by : a remonstrance founded on reason, and politely made, will then generally have its effect: this mode cannot be too strongly recommended. Travellers intending to set out early in the morning shoidd cause their hills to he made out and delivered to them over night, that they may examine the items at leisure ; hut they should not pay them until the moment of starting. It is indispensable, to prevent fraud, to examine inn-hills and to understand them before paying them ; he who neglects this offers a pre¬ mium to dishonesty, and will scarcely escape being cheated. Servants in German inns.—A charge for service (Bcdienung) of 5 to 7 s. gr. is usually made in the hills. The Hausknecht (hoots) sometimes expects an extra gratuity. The English give much more trouble to the servants than the natives, and something more is expected of them. Tables-d’hote .—The usual hour for dining (Mittagsessen) is 1 o’clock; in thoNorth of Germany it is as late as 2 or 3 ; in the South it is even as early as 12. The tahle-d’hote is frequented by both ladies and gentlemen, and,'especially at the watering-places, by persons of the highest ranks, from Grand Dukes and Princes downwards. The stranger will find much more general urbanity than in a simi¬ larly mixed assemblage in England; the topics and news of the day are discussed without restraint; and if the traveller he anxious to gain general or local infor¬ mation, he will frequently succeed at the tahle-d’hote; and should his visit to a Germany. 30. german beds. 31. vAlets-de-place. 209 town or place be somewhat rapid, perhaps he will have no other source to "o to. Added to this, the best dinner is always to be had at the table-a’hote. It answers the landlord’s purpose to provide sumptuously, en gros , for a large com¬ pany, and he therefore discourages dining in private. Those however who dis¬ like the noise and bustle of a public table may dine perfectly well in the sallo-a- manger, or in their own room, a la carte, choosing their own dishes. German innkeepers have become accustomed to Englishmen’s habits of dining late ; and in the hotels of the larger towns and watering-places there is a second table-d’hotc at 4 or 5 o’clock, to accommodate the English. Those who intend to dine at the table-d’hote in a frequented inn at a full season should desire the waiter to keep places for them. The guests are usually seated according to priority of arrival, the last comers being placed at the foot of the table. Supper, which, owing to the early hour of dinner, is a usual meal in Germany, is ordered from the Carte (Speise-Cartc). Travellers on the Rhine during May should inquire for Maitrank, a spiced wine, or cup flavoured with an aromatic herb (Asperula odorata). In Gorman inns the best apartments, even on the lower floor, though furnished elegantly as a parlour, serve as bed-rooms, and contain one or more beds. The price of a room depends upon the number of beds in it, but the double-bedded rooms are invariably superior to those with only one bed. The partitions dividing the rooms of German inns are often very thin, and the rooms usually open into each other; the tenant should, therefore, remember that what he says and does is liable to be overheard. 30. German Reds. One of the first complaints of an Englishman in the remote parts of Germany will be directed against the beds. It is therefore as well to make him aware before¬ hand of the full extent of misery to which he will be subjected on this score. A German bed is made only for one; it may be compared to an open wooden box, often hardly wide enough to turn in, and rarely long enough for any man of moderate stature to lie down in. The pillows encroach nearly half-way down, and form such an angle with the bed that it is scarcely possible to lie at full length, or assume any other than a half-sitting posture. Curtains are almost always wanting. The place of blankets is sometimes supplied by a light puffy feather-bed, which is likely to be kicked off, and forsake in his utmost need the sleeper, who, on awaking in cold weather, finds himself frozen : should it remain in its position in warm weather, the opposite alternative is that of suffocation beneath it. Mr. Coleridge has recorded his abhorrence of a German bed, declaring “ he would rather carry his blanket about him, like a wild Indian, than submit to this abominable custom.” The Germans themselves say that they use the feather-bed merely to cover their feet in cold weather. “ The stranger who appreciates this nuisance to its full extent is recommended to ask the chambermaid for a counterpane (bctt-decke), instead of the usual federbett. 31. Yalets-de-place ; or, Loiinbedienter. It has been the custom of many travellers who have published tours to speak very contemptuously of the class of guides who go by the name of valets-de- place, though it may fairly be suspected that they owe much of the best part of their books to that despised caste. The fact is, that when a traveller arrives for the first time at a spot which he is desirous of seeing thoroughly, and at the same time does not intend to remain long in it, a valet-de-place is indispensable, unless he has friends who will perform the part of ciceroni for him. There aro qlways a certain number of persons experienced in the duties of a guide attached 210 31. VALETS-DE-PLACE. 32. CUSTOM-HOUSE.LEAGUE. Sect. III. to every inn; and if the traveller, instead of engaging a person nominated by the landlord, for the sake of sparing a franc or two, put his trust in the boys who may accost him in the streets, lie runs the risk of falling into had hands, or of finding himself in situations in which it will bo neither agreeable nor creditable to he placed. The utility of a valet-de-place consists in his knowledge of the hours at which each church, picture-gallery, palace, or other sight, is open, or visible; how to procure tickets of admission, and where to find the keepers of them, which spares the traveller much time in running about in search of them, and, if he have a spare hour, furnishes the means of spending it advantageously. The valct-de- place will also know the residences of all the ambassadors, and the mode of obtaining passports, and will undertake to have them properly vise. Nothing is so annoying as to have to traverse the streets of a large town in search of ministers and consuls, and, on arriving, perhaps to find you have come at the wrong time, or at least to he compelled to dance attendance for hours. It is far preferable to promise your valet-de-place a franc or two, if he secure the proper signatures within a fixed time. At the same time, it is necessary to put the traveller on his guard against the tricks of a valet-de-placc. For his own advantage, and the interest of the inn¬ keeper his patron, he will often endeavour to detain the traveller by framing excuses—that collections are not open—that the passport office is closed, or— the minister out of town. It is better to state beforehand to the man what objects you desire to see, and how much time you can devote to seeing them; to ascertain from him at once at what hours different sights are thrown open to the public, and to make him arrange the order of proceeding accordingly. With respect to passports, it may he borne in mind that the hours of attendance at police offices arc, with very few exceptions, so regulated as never to detain per¬ sons who are anxious to proceed; and if the valet-de-place maintains there is any impediment, the best way to settle the matter is by calling in the landlord, or, if that will not do, by going in person to the police-office. The fee paid to a valet-dc-place varies in different parts of Germany; and it will bo found particularised in the description of almost all the great cities. It is not always necessary to engage him for the whole day : he may he hired by the hour, and paid accordingly. Travellers are warned on no account to take a valet-dc-place with them into a shop where they wish to make purchases, since it is an acknowledged practice of the valet-de-place to demand of the tradesman a fee of 5 per cent, on the sum laid out by the stranger whom he conducts, and this is, of course, added to the price paid by the purchaser. Another practice, in towns Avhere palaces or churches arc exhibited by fixed attendants, is for the valet-de-placc to name a larger sum than is necessary as the fee to he paid to the attendant, part of which he receives hack himself: unless the traveller ascertains that the fee named is fixed by tariff or usage, it is usually advisable to disregard altogether the sum mentioned by him. 32. German Custom-house League, Zollverein.—Coinage. Down to 1833 almost every state in Germany had its own tariff and system of duties, and the traveller was subjected to the inconvenience of custom-house visitations on the frontier of each state, however insignificant; while the vexa¬ tious impediments throAvn in the way of trade were enormous. Some states, situated in the interior of the Continent, Avere compelled to pay 10 or 12 different transit duties for every article they imported or exported. An Association, called Zoll-Yerein (Toll Union), headed by Prussia, is now formed for the furtherance of trade by consolidating the different states of Ger¬ many, and uniting them under one system of customs. The members of this league have agreed to adopt the same scale of duties, to abolish all intermediate Germany. 32. custom-house league. 33. distances. 211 custom-houses, and to divide the profits among the states of the union propor¬ tionately to the population of each. In consequence of this, the restraints which impeded the communication from one part of Germany to the other have been removed. The conforming states arc—Prussia (the head of the league), Bavaria, Saxony, Hanover, Wiirtcmberg, Baden, Brunswick, Hesse-Darmstadt, Cassel, Nassau, Frankfurt, the Duchies of Saxony and Mecklenburg, and Prin¬ cipalities of Anhalt, Oldenburg, and Schaumburg Lippo (Hanover and Oldenburg did not join until Jan. 1854). Holstein and the Ilansc Towns, &c., form a minor dissenting league of their own. Thus the traveller who has crossed the outer line is freed from the vexations of the Douanier in every part of Central Germany, and may proceed without interruption from Belgium to the frontier of Bussia, and from Tyrol to the Baltic, a distance of 700 or 800 m., including a popu¬ lation of 70 millions: and a small transit duty enables goods to pass all the states of the Union. Austria still follows the ancient regulations in all the states belonging to her. This Confederation has effected another object, viz., unity in the currency. A money convention was entered into by the States forming the Union in 1837, who agreed on a new basis of valuation under the term Siicl Deutsche Wdlirunj (S. D. W.), at the rate of 244 gulden to the marc of fine silver, the marc of fine silver weighing 233 grammes. i The German monetary system is based no longer on the Cologne mark, but on a new pound = exactly 500 grammes. 30 Prussian thalers, j 45 Austrian florins, > arc contained in 1 lb. fine silver of 500 grammes. 524 German ditto, j The florins coined by the Customs Union arc: 1 fl.=19y/., making the par of exchange with London 120|- fl. S. D. W. — 10Z. 4 Prussian thalers = 6 Austrian florins = 7 Bavarian florins. Bavaria, Wiirtemberg, Baden, Frankfurt, and Saxony have issued coins at this rate : piece of 2 thalers=3|- florins, or ) of the marc. It bears on one side the head of the sovereign, on the other the words “ Vereins Miinze .” 1 centner of the Zollverein=50 French kilogrammes=1104 lbs. avoirdupois. The ton of 4 scheffels=G imp. bushels, nearly 1 per cent. more. 33. Distances.—Travelling Maps. 1 German m. =4| Eng. m. (say 5 Eng. m. on an average), or about 1 French post. 15 Germ, m., or 14‘77 Prussian, make a degree. 1 Germ. m. = 22,803 Rhenish feet. 2 Germ, m., or 4 stunden (hours), make one post = 91 Eng. nr. The German post stunclc is not quite 2 a Eng. nr.; the Stuncle zu Fuss (hour walking) is about 3 nr., or as much as a man can walk in an hour without much exertion. In Rhenish Prussia the mile is divided into 100 parts, which are marked by small stones set up at the roadside. These stones are therefore 82 yards Eng. apart, and 211 of these hundredths make an English mile, nearly. This subdivision of the German mile is used to express distances on the railroads. German post miles compared with English. j\ n „ Q er< j 7 n , r> 1 Prussian, Bavarian, Hanoverian, New Saxon, Hessian = 43 or 5 = 23 1 Austrian - -- --.. 4f — 5 = 23f 1 Old Saxon.. 5|3 _ 5 = 28 a 1 French Poste - - - - - - - - - - - - - = 4 i •— 5 = 24 1 French Myriametre - - * - - - - - - - - = 61 — 5 = 31 The most clear, accurate, and portable Travelling Maps of Germany arc, 1. Hendschel’s Post Map (published by Jligel, Frankfurt) for the roads ; 2. Wieland’s Zollyercin Kartc for the Custom-houses ; 3. Bernhard’s Sprachkartc for the Dia- Sect. III. 212 34. posting. 35. diligences. lects. 4. Hendschcl’s Eisonbahn Telegraph for the Railways. 5. Hendschel’s Rhein-Panorama. There is a very good travelling map of Germany, with separate maps of the several railways, "by Diez, published by Justus Perthes : Gotha. It costs, when mounted on linen and in a case, 3 thalers = 9s. 34. Posting, or Extra Post.—Laufzettel. Posting throughout Germany has become nearly obsolete since the introduc¬ tion of railways. Postilion's Trinkgeld (drink-money). The best general rule is to pay him as a horse, or double the tariff, if the traveller is satisfied with the postilion. He is never restricted to the sum which he can legally demand, except when he has not given satisfaction. A post-caleche costs about as much as a third horse. The Wagenmeistcr (coachmastcr), a kind of superior ostler, who superintends the postboys, is sometimes entitled to a small fee on putting the horses to. Schmiergeld (grease-money). On driving up to the posthouse, the traveller is often addressed with the words, “ Wollen sie schmicrcn lassen? ” (Will you have the wheels greased ?) Whether this is done or not, in some countries the fee is exacted; but more frequently it is only paid when the grease is actually applied. 2 Horses. Postilion. Total. s. d. d. s. d. /In Austria 0 5 2| 0 7f Comparative expense (exclusive Bavaria 0 2f 0 8i of turnpikes) of Posting per < Prussia 0 Gh 2f 0 9i; English mile ----- | Belgium 0 64 0 101 l England 1 6 3 1 9 L. S. Laufzettel .—Travellers pressed for time, and desirous of avoiding all delay at post-houses, may bespeak relays of horses along the road they arc about to travel, on application at the Poste aux Chevaux or the post-office of the town from which they set out. They must apply at least 12 hours before the time they intend to start, must state in writing when they intend to depart, the route they propose to follow, and the number of horses they require; and the post¬ master will send on beforehand and make arrangements accordingly. This order is called a Laufzettel, and may be obtained at a trifling expense wherever a diligence or schnellpost travels. It is in use, I believe, throughout Germany, The value of this in short days, and when you wish to get rapidly over an uninteresting country, is very great; and in the harvest, when post-horses and postilions are constantly employed in the fields, you will sometimes find it difficult to get through 70 or 80 English miles in 2 days without a laufzettel. Tolls .—The practice of including the tolls in the charge for the horses is general in Germany. 35. Diligences (called in Prussia Schncllpostcn, in Austria Eiludgcn) are now almost superseded by Railways, except on bye roads. The post-office and public conveyances belong to the Government, and arc managed by its officers, with very few exceptions, in all the German states. The Schnellpost, or Eilwagen, is placed under the care of a guard, called Conductcur, or Schirrmeister. In most cases the seats are numbered, and passengers are placed in the order in which their places are engaged. The first numbers are affixed to the corner seats, which of course are more desirable than those in tho Germany . 35. diligences. 36. voiturier. 213 middle, especially for night travelling. On this account, it will ho perceived how advantageous it is to engage the place as long as possible before the time of Starting. The fare must be paid beforehand, and a receipt is always given for it, and for baggage, whether the passenger takes it with him or sends it by the waggon. The greatest care is taken of the baggage of travellers all over the Continent: instances of loss are very rare. Every package must be distinctly addressed, with the name and destination of the person to whom it belongs; otherwise the post-office will not be responsible for it if lost. Passengers cannot be called for at their own houses, but must meet the diligence at the coach-office, and must send their luggage at least an hour before. Every article is weighed and entered in a book. A certain weight is allowed to each passenger; all above that must be paid for: large trunks must be sent by a baggage-waggon. The Conductcur is usually a superior person to the English guard ; and, besides his duties, has the charge of paying postilions, and is responsible for the baggage of his passengers. He is not entitled to any remuneration from them ; indeed, in many cases he is forbidden to acccept any. Bate of Fares per Germ. m. 8 to 10 S. gr. = 28 to 36 kr. = 9 \d. to 11 ~d. Bate of travelling. —In Prussia, on the best roads, 8 English m. an hour; in other parts, and in Austria, 6 m.; but sometimes only 1 Germ. m. per hour. Postwaggons. —Besides the Eilwagen, there is another species of public con¬ veyance of an inferior kind, not so well appointed, and much slower, called Fabr- post, or Postwagen. It is so tedious, usually on account of the long stoppages which it makes at every stage, that the traveller might get to his journey’s end nearly as soon on foot. On those roads where there are eilwagen, the postwagen should be decidedly avoided, as these arc commonly crowded by inferior persons ; but there are other roads which are only traversed by a postwagen. For ladies, or for a family, a diligence is by no means a desirable conveyance, and is not nearly so economical as a Lohnkutscher’s carriage. In many cases, where a party amounts to 3 or 4, it will be less expensive to buy a carriage and travel post than with the diligence. 36. Tiie German Yoiturier—Loiinkutsciier. The advantages of Vetturino travelling consist, first , in its being cheaper than posting, or even than the Schnellpost, when 4 persons join in taking a carriage ; secondly , it is more independent than the diligence, as it allows the traveller to stop on the road, by having a previous understanding with the driver; thirdly , as there are many roads on which German schncllposts and eilwagen do not travel every day of the week, it is often the only mode of proceeding unless the traveller take post-horses; fourthly , it is almost the only available mode of travelling upon cross or side roads which are not post roads; fifthly, it allows the traveller an opportunity of resting at night. At the same time it must be remembered that, as the Lohnkutscher travels with the same pair of horses, it is not an expeditious mode of conveyance; 40 or 50 m. being the utmost extent of a day’s journey; and 1 or 2 halts of an hour or two’s duration arc necessary to refresh the horses each day. It will therefore not answer for the traveller who is pressed for time. The usual Vetturino carriage is a light sort of caleche, capable of being shut in with leather curtains or glass windows, and of accommodating 4 or 5 persons, and 1 on the box. The coachman undertakes the care and transport of baggage without any additional charge. Attached to the footboard behind is a large wicker basket for holding luggage, which is secured in its place by a chain. The usual cost per diem for the entire use of a caleche, drawn by 2 horses, is from 6 to 7 dollars in Prussia and the X. of Germany, and 8 or 10 florins in the near the Bhine ; and along much trayersed roads the rate is sometimes even 214 36. GERMAN VOITURIER. 37. RAILWAYS. Sect. III. higher. The driver, if lie behave well, receives a trinlcgcld of 12 groschcn, or a zwanziger, per diem. In this is included every charge for tolls, barriers, ferries, &c., and the driver provides for himself and horses. When forage is dear or tolls heavy, some little difference may be made; but the above may be considered an average of the charges. As a further scale by which to calculate a Lohnkutscher’s charge it may bo mentioned that the hire of a carriage for 4 persons should not exceed § or § the fare of 4 for the same distance in the eilwagen. Upon much frequented roads the German Lohnkutschcr has no right to claim hack fare, as he hardly fails to pick up passengers on his return ; and indeed lie will not hesitate to go to the most distant corner of Europe if he meets with a good offer. Before hiring a carriage expressly for a journey, it is advisable to ascertain whether there be no return carriages (retour cliaisen) about to take the same route, as such may be engaged at a very reduced rate. A single individual has no occasion to take a whole coach to himself; ho may secure a single place, paying proportionately; but then he must take his chance of the company lie may have to encounter as fellow-passengers. He should make his bargain and secure his place over night; if he wait till the morning, ho will probably find that all the Lolmkutschers have departed before lie was up, as they set out betimes, and he will either be compelled to remain on the spot till the following day, or to hire a carriage expressly for himself. When the journey will last for several days, it will be well not to engage the coachman at once for the whole distance, but, if satisfied, to take him on day by day. It is better not to employ a driver upon a road which he has not travelled before, but to seek out one who will serve as a guide, and be able to give some information about the inns and country through which he has to pass. In Germany it is not customary or necessary to draw up a written agreement with the driver, as in Italy ; but it is sometimes the practice for him to deposit in the hands of the person who has engaged him a small sum of money ( hand - or darauf-geld; in Italy, la caparra) as a surety that he will not fail in his engage¬ ment, and run off, in case he can make a better bargain elsewhere. The receipt of this money is also binding on the part of the employer, who cannot afterwards put off the driver without paying him a consideration. Before engaging the whole carriage a verbal stipulation should be made with the driver, that he is to take up no person by the way without his employer’s con¬ sent ; that he is to stop when and where he is bid; and, though it is an under¬ stood thing that he is to pay all tolls, &c., a foreigner had better mention this also. The time of starting and the length of the day’s journey should also bo fixed. The German Yoiturier docs not engage to provide you with meals, as the Italian; but he expects to be allowed to stop at inns of his own choosing—a condition to which travellers are not compelled to agree, though they rarely ob¬ ject. lie never fails to regulate his daily journey so as to make his mid-day halt at some place where there is a good dinner just ready to be served up. This mid-day halt of 2 or 3 hours’ duration will often suffice to enable the traveller to sec as much as he can desire of many places whore he would have no inclina¬ tion to spend a whole day, and which lie would merely drive hurriedly through in the public diligences. 37. Railways. Railroads have extended rapidly in Germany within the last few years. The map, and the following routes, will show what lines are now open, or about to open. Many of the German rules and regulations arc in the highest degree cumbrous, frivolous, vexatious, and useless; none more so than those relating to overweight 215 Germany . 37. railways. 38. baggage. (iibergewicht) of baggage. 50 lbs. weight is Hie usual allowance free; if you have 51 lbs. you pay as for 100. Travellers should be at the station, if they have some time before the train starts, as the weighing, ticketing, and navin°' for the luggage is a very tedious process. 1 7 ° _ Numbered tickets are affixed to every article, and a corresponding receipt is given to the. owner, which he must produce at the end of his journey in order to reclaim his property. _ There is a sort of German Bradshaw, ‘ Ifcndschell’s Eisenbahi Telegraph * pub¬ lished by Jiigel of Frankfort, giving Time Tables of the German lines, which is very serviceable, price 10 s. gr. The Germans seldom travel in the 1st class carriages, the 2nd class being very good. The English who object to smoking may obtain seats in a separate carriage (often marked nicht rauchen) by applying to the guard. 38. Baggage. The Homans showed they fully appreciated the nature of baggage in de¬ signating it by the appropriate word “ impedimenta ,” and truly the traveller will find it an impediment at every step. It is a source of much anxiety, trouble, and expense; and he alone can bo called independent who can carry all his chattels on his back. Ladies should bo cautioned not to encumber themselves with supernumerary cap and band boxes ; even if they travel post in their own carriage, it will bo less trouble and expense to buy such articles in the great towns, than to have to take an extra horse in consideration of the number of packages. A person about to travel, not in his own carriage, but in public conveyances , if he require much baggage, should distribute it into small packages; and, instead of taking one large box or trunk of wood (koffer), had better provide himself with two portmanteaus (felleisen) of leather, or with a carpet-bag. Throughout Germany, passengers by the schnellpost or eilwagen are very strictly limited as to the quantity of baggage; in general, one is allowed no more than 30 lbs. free of expense—all above that is called over-weight (iibergewicht), and must be paid for. But even payment will not enable the passenger to take his baggage with him if it weigh more than 50 lbs., in case the eilwagen happen to be full. Where there is room it is commonly received, but, if not, the di¬ rector of the post-office cannot be compelled to take it, should it exceed by a few pounds the prescribed limits. It must, in that case, be sent by a separate con¬ veyance, a baggage waggon (packwagen), which, being a much heavier and slower vehicle, usually sets out some time before the schnellpost or eilwagen, and arrives after it. A traveller loaded with heavy trunks, and ignorant of this regulation, may be subjected to great inconvenience by being separated for several days from them; while he that is aware of it will deposit the articles immediately wanted in a light bag or valise, and send off liis heavy baggage beforehand, some days before he starts himself. A receipt is given for every article forwarded in this manner, on presenting which at the post-office at the place to which the traveller is bound, the luggage is delivered to him as soon as it arrives. When about to plunge into a mountainous country, where there arc no car¬ riage roads, it is indispensable to diminish the baggage to the utmost. Trunks, boxes, and parcels may bo safely forwarded by the government or private cil- wiigen from one capital to another, or even across a frontier into the territory of another sovereign. In the latter case they should be addressed to the owner at the custom-house (Haupt Mauth, or Zollamt) of the place to which he wishes them sent, where they will be taken care of, and kept till called for. At the same time a letter of specification (frachtbricf) should be despatched fry post, bear- 216 39, SUCCINCT ACCOUNT OF GERMANY. Sect. HI. ing the same address as the parcel, and stating the nature and value of the con¬ tents, so as to identify them when the owner arrives. When he comes to claim them, he will he required to show his passport, and to open the packages in the ordinary manner in the presence of a custom-house officer. When a parcel is not sent beyond a frontier, hut is merely forwarded from one town to another, if the traveller have no friend or agent in the town to whose care he can consign it, all that is required is, that he should address it paste restante, and it will he kept at the post-office till called for. 39. Succinct Account of Germany.* It will heighten the interest of a tour, and spread a more general acquaintance with the German people, whose character, manners, and language nearly ap¬ proach our own, to give a short outline of the geography and history of their country. A. Geography and Statistics, &c. &c. —Germany, situated in the centre of Europe, reaching from the Adriatic to the Baltic and North Sea, borders towards the S. upon Switzerland and Italy, towards the N. upon Denmark, on the E. upon Hungary, Poland, and Russia, on the W. upon France and the Netherlands ; and contains 11,556 German square miles. Physical Geography. The central group of mountains, which may he termed the heart of Germany, is the Fichtclgebirge. From this branch out, crosswise, 4 principal chains of mountains, which influence the rivers, climate, and popu¬ lation. They stretch diagonally; the Thiiringerwald to the NAY., the Erzge¬ birge to the N.E., the Bohmerwald to the S.E., and the Rauhalp to the SAY. Each has its branches and prolongations, and, singularly enough, each quarter of lower country comprehended between the chains above mentioned has a sepa¬ rate group of mountains in it except the southern. In the North the Harz stands out alone, in the East the Eicsengebirgc, in the West the mountains of West¬ phalia and the Rhine. The Schwarzwald, running from N. to S., is exceptional. The population , chiefly spread in small towns, there being hut 4 of more than 100,000 inhabitants (Vienna, Berlin, Prague, and Hamburg), amounts to 42 millions. By race and language , 35 millions are of the Germanic, and, with the exception of 320,000 French and Italians and 380,000 Jews, the remainder of the Slavonic race. By religion , there are 22 millions Catholics, most of them in the S.; and about 19^ millions of the Lutheran and Calvinist (now in Prussia and almost everywhere united) or Protestant persuasion, mostly in the N. The language , not beautiful in sound, hut very rich, manly, and expressive, well suited to poetry and all other styles of writing, is the mother tongue of Hol¬ land, England, Switzerland, Denmark, and Sweden. It so nearly resembles English that the hulk of our most necessary words for eating, drinking, for the limbs, colours, elements—in fact, words indispensable to a first state of society— are even now nearly the same. The best German is spoken by the higher classes in Saxony and Hanover. The climate is temperate, and, the weather being steady, it is in summer often very warm; in winter severe, hut then with a clear sky. The great rivers, Rhine, Danube, &c., are very often frozen over from November to March. The most fertile parts are the great valleys of the Danube and the Rhine. “ So many leave England for climate, and expect to find an improvement as soon as they cross the Channel, that a few words on the climate of Germany may he useful. The NAY. is the dampest quarter, the SAY. the mildest, the S.E. the driest, the N.E. the coldest. In general the whole basin of the Rhine enjoys a better climate, winter and summer, than the rest of Germany. The alterna¬ tions are almost as frequent as in England, except in very cold winters, and they * Furnished to the Editor of the Handbook by a very intelligent friend. Germany. 39. succinct account of germane. 217 are more sudden, and range between higher and lower extremes, daily and yearly. The neighbourhood of Heidelberg, Carls rube, and Freiburg, is perhaps the best climate in Germany.”— F. S. Living is about as cheap again in the S. as in the N. A thaler in the N. will not procure more than a gulden there. The common necessaries of life arc one-third cheaper than in England; and in many other things, education, doctors, law, &c., the difference is much greater. Agriculture* flourishes: in the N. there arc yet many large estates; not so many in the S., where a free peasantry till their own soil. Although the too numerous subdivisions are felt as an evil, this is preferred to the opposite ex¬ treme of overgrown estates, cultivated by mere labourers. Produce for exportation is—corn, wool, iron and other metals, timber, wine, and mineral waters. The Manufactures , vigorously reviving since the peace, and only surpassed by the genius, capital, and machinery of England, supply—linen, cloth, cotton goods, silks, paper, leather, hardware, china, glass, toys, beer, &c. Importations : chiefly colonial produce and articles of British manufacture. Germany takes more of the last than any country in the world except the United States. The principal Seaport , almost the first of the Continent, is Hamburg; the second is Trieste. The chief Fairs are held at Lcipsig and Frankfurt-on-the-Maine. The golden era of German Commerce , when, along with that of Venice and Genoa, it became the most flourishing of Europe, was in 1364, at the time of the Hanseatic league , which comprised GO towns on the Rhine, the German Ocean, and Baltic Sea. They were so powerful as to equip, on one occasion, a fleet of 248 ships, with 12,000 troops. They conquered Denmark and Sweden, forced France to stop its trade with England, and made England purchase peace at the price of a tribute. After the discovery of the Cape of Good Hope and America, and in conse¬ quence of the ravages of the 30 years’ war, German commerce died away; and it is but just beginning to assume greater importance. Down to the time of the French Revolution, the German Empire consisted of more than 300 distinct states, greater or smaller, which were divided into Ten Circles: — 1. Austria. 2. Burgundy (including Belgium, Luxemburg, Limburg, &c., belonging to Austria). 3. Westphalia. 4. Electoral Rhine, including the ecclesiastical principalities of Mayence, Treves, and Cologne, and the Palatinate. 5. Upper Rhine, chiefly the territory of the Landgrave of Hesse Casscl. 6. Swabia , the larger part made up of the domains of the Duke of Wiirtemberg and the Margrave of Baden. 7. Bavaria. 8. Fran¬ conia, including the bishoprics of Bamberg and Wurzburg, the principalities of Baireuth and Ansbach, the free city of Nuremburg, &c. 9. Lower Saxony, including Magdeburg, Brunswick, Mecklenburg, Holstein, &c. 10. Upper Saxony , or Pomerania, Brandenburg, Anhalt, Saxony (Electoral and Ducal), Ac. The German Confederation now comprises 38 independent states: — One Empire —Austria, with a population of 12 millions (but 37 millions if we include the provinces which are not German). Five Kingdoms —Prussia, with 1 IT millions (and 3f millions not Germans); Bavaria, with 4h millions; Saxony, Hanover, Wiirtemberg, each 1^ million. Seventeen Duchies and Grand Duchies —Baden, 2 Ilcsscn, Holstein, Luxemburg, 4 Saxon Duchies, Bruns¬ wick, 2 Mecklenburg's, Oldenburg, Nassau, f> Anhalts. Eleven Principalities — 2 Schwarzburgs, 2 Hohcnzollern, Liechtenstein, 2 Rcuss, 2 Lippc, Waldeck, * Reiclienbacli’s ‘ Flora Excursoria,’ guides to the travelling Botanist. I ' [N.G.] and Koch’s ‘ llora Germania!,’ will be found useful h Sect. Ill* 218 39. SUCCINCT ACCOUNT OF GERMANY. Hombul'g. Foilr Free Towns —Frankfurt-on-the-Maine, Liibeck, Bremen, and Hamburg. The Army of the Confederation is, in peace, about 300,000 men; of whorri 40,000 are cavalry. The finest forests are in the centre: in Franconia, Hesse, Westphalia; near the Rhine they arc rarer. Enclosed countries are chiefly in the N., as in Hol¬ stein, Mecklenburg, &c., and near the Alps. Gentlemen’s country seats are confined to a few districts, of which the favourite ones seem to be—the Rhein- gau—the environs of Constance — Holstein — Mecklenburg and Pomerania— Silesia, western part—and, of course, the neighbourhood of some of the towns. Among the finest are—Muskau, Lusatia; Pommersfelden, Franconia (Count Schonborn) ; Johannisberg, Nassau; Konigswart, Bohemia (Prince Metternich); Heiligenberg, Baden (Prince Fiirstenberg); Eisgrub, Moravia (Prince Liechten¬ stein) ; "VValdleiningen, Osenwald (Prince Leiningen); Ileubach, on the Maine (Prince Lowenstein). B. History.— The German nations were never conquered by the Romans : at the grand migration they, on the contrary, broke down the Roman empire, and prevailed in Italy, Spain, France, and England. The Germanic Empire , founded by Charlemagne, A.d. 800, was dissolved under Francis II., who, in 1806, exchanged the title of Emperor of Germany for that of Emperor of Austria, confining himself to his hereditary dominions—Austria, Bohemia, Hungary, &c. In the olden time the Germanic Empire was a league of barons, counts, and dukes. Seven of the most powerful (nine in later times) bore the titles of Electors , from their privilege to elect the Emperor. The Electors were—the Archbishops of Mayence (the Archbishop and Archchancellor of the Empire), Treves, and Cologne ; the Palatine of the Rhine, Arch-steward of the Empire; the Margrave of Brandenburg, Arch-chamberlain; the Duke of Saxony, Arch-marshal; and the King of Bohemia, Arch-cuphearcr: to these were afterwards added Bavaria (1623) and Hanover (1692). At first those nobles held their dominions merely as vassals of the Empire; in course of time they kept them by inheritance. Nearly the same occurred with the title and office of Emperor (although the form of election was observed to the last); and it continued, almost uninterruptedly, in the Habsburg family, longer than in any other, from 1273 to 1806. After the extinction of the line of Charlemagne the Emperors were chosen from the Saxons (in 919, Henry I. and Otho I.); from the Franks or Salians (in 1039, Henry III.); from the Suabians or Hohenstaufen (in 1152, Frederick I. and II.); from the Austrians or Habsburgs (in 1273, Rudolph I., Maximilian I., Charles V., and Joseph II.) ; of whom, those named are the most distin¬ guished. The long line of 50 Emperors exhibits not one tyrant, nor did any one of them fall by the fury of the people. The Empire was by far the most powerful state in Europe, extending its sway over the Netherlands, over a great part of the eastern provinces of France, over Bohemia, Hungary, and Italy. This mighty state, which had existed paramount in Europe longer than any in ancient or modern times, in spite of the dangerous system of elected instead of hereditary Emperors, received its death-blow from the discord which followed the Reforma¬ tion. It sickened, undermined through foreign jealousy; till, divided as it had been, it was dissolved under the influence of Napoleon. The more powerful princes, who, at the dissolution of the Empire, had with the titles of dukes and kings become independent sovereigns, afterwards coalesced together to the number of 38, Austria and Prussia at their head, 4 free towns at their tail, under the name of the German Confederation. This took place on the 8th of June 1815 ; and the princes had, by their ambassadors, a permanent Congress or Diet, at present at Frankfurt-on-the-Maine, in order to concert Germany. 39-. succinct account of Germany. 219 measures for the welfare or defence of their joint Fatherland. Germany, with the dependencies of Austria and Prussia, presenting the mass of 60 millions of people, in the heart of the Continent, might, if well united, always command the first position in the affairs of Europe. The Constitution of Germany of 1815 may he called an Act of Confederation by which the princes pledged themselves to maintain each other in independence: and by the 13th article they promised their people to re-establish, or to consti¬ tute, legislative chambers! Law. —By the most ancient Germanic law, there existed a kind of parliament (“ the May folder”), trial by jury, and a public administration of justice. The Roman law has supplanted the Germanic, and is now the basis of the administra¬ tion of justice—in Prussia, with important improvements by Frederick II. In the Plienish provinces of Prussia, Ilesse, Bavaria, on the left bank of the Rhine, the Code Napoleon , with open courts and trial by jury, is still in force, and rooted in the attachment of the people. The same Code has partly been adopted by some of the southern states. Education. —The Germans flatter themselves that scientific education is more universally diffused amongst them than anywhere else. They possess 23 Uni¬ versities ; scarcely a town of a few thousand inhabitants is without a lycoeum, where, besides the ancient, the modern languages, history, geography, mathe¬ matics, &c., are taught. The people are actually obliged to send their children to school up to a certain age. The national education and medical affairs are not left to chance or free trade, but are everywhere placed under the care of an especial minister of state. Prussia here takes the lead again. The system of the German Universities is radically bad. The professors are not placed in a state of independence, and must court popularity by advocating political opinions which may make them popular among their pupils. They too often become bad politicians, and few of them possess even the groundwork for the career of men of the world— common sense. Their pupils take advantage of their release from home-influence to commit all sorts of childish extravagances. Oxford and Cambridge have many detractors—at least the members of our uni¬ versities, on the whole, are gentlemen , and will well support (with all the faults that can be alleged against them) a comparison with German students. They delight neither in swilling beer, wearing jack boots and goat’s beard, nor in taking part with the mob in revolutionary riots, bad imitatations of the Faubourg St. Antoine—excesses which would be properly coerced by the exercise of the ferule. Character of the Germans. —Tacitus, even in his time, praises them for their bravery, good faith, good nature, and chastity. Their bonhomie has been ridiculed by the French, perhaps from their too great simplicity or modesty of deportment, and the negligence they are apt to show to externals. The Southern Germans are perhaps more guilty of this than the Northern, but then they pos¬ sess more cheerfulness, and hilarity too, than the latter. They are sober, religious without austerity or show, moral and generous, and of persevering industry and steadiness. With them the most rigid economy must be and is observed, as, by the old Germanic law of inheritance, property is equally dis¬ tributed amongst the children. The translator of Schiller’s 1 Song of the Bell,’ a beautiful picture of German life, lays particular stress upon—“The serious character of a people who begin . the common business of every-day life with prayer, who attach importance *hs well to the manner of performing an action as to the action itself,—the custom of travelling, either in their own or in foreign countries, in the interval between the completion of their education and their settlement in life,—the household manners, where great attention is paid to the minutiae of domestic economy.” Society is yery pleasant, the Germans being frank and sociable, and as, from 220 39. SUCCINCT ACCOUNT OP GERMANY. Sect. 111. the constant divisions of property, there are not such vast differences between man and man as elsewhere, most have a little, few too much. Their general information, the resources drawn from their passion for reading (about 8000 books are annually published), their love of music, furnish ample materials for rational entertainment. Perhaps an additional charm of domestic life is the kindly apostrophe of Du (thou), amongst the members of a family, old friends, and schoolfellows; which endearing term marks the more intimate circle of society. We conclude with some of the great names in literature and the line arts. Philosophers: Leibnitz, Puffendorf, Kant, Mendelssohn, Jacobi, Herder, Fichte, Schelling, Hegel. Astronomers: Copernicus, Kepler, Herschel, Olbers, Gauss, Schottcr, Littrow. Mathematicians: Euler, Lambert, Vega. Historians and Critics: Johannes von Muller, Niebuhr, Heeren, Kanke, Paumcr; (in art), Winckelmann, Kuglcr, Waagen, Hotho, Kinkel. Natu¬ ralists: Haller, 0. Gessner, Werner, Klaproth, lilumcnbach, Gmelin, Hum¬ boldt, Oken, Mitcherlich, Liebig, Fraunhofer. Lawyers: Hugo, Thibault, Savigny. Humanists: F. A. Wolf, Heyne, Ernesti, Kunkenius, Wytten- bach, Hermann, Bockh, Muller, Weleker, Forchammer Theologians: Schleiermacher, Lticke, Nitsch, Olshauscn, Ncander, Umbreit, Ewald. Poetry and Works of Fiction :— Klopstock (1748), Lessing, Gessner, Wieland, Gleim, Gellert, Yoss, Burger, Uz, Ilolty, Stolberg, Gothe, Schiller, J. P. Pichter, Schlegel, Zschokke, Heine, Tieck, Tiedge, Hoffman, Korner, Uhland, Kiickert. In Painting , Germany maintains a very respectable position with the following names ^ Lucas Kranach (1472), Schoreel, A. Diirer, Holbein, Memling, Rubens, Lingelbach, Ostade, Kraft, Mengs ; and the living artists, Overbeck, Rott- man, Cornelius, Hess, Schnorr, Kruger, Bendcmann, Lessing, Hildebrand, Kaulbach, Steinle, Magnus, Schraudolph. Sculptors are— P. Yischer (1500), Danneckcr, Rauch, Tieck, Schaller, Scliwanthaler, and / Kiss. As for Music , Germany claims the palm for¬ th e family Bach, Handel, Gluck, Haydn, Mozart, Beethoven, Winter, the Rombergs, Fesca, Wcigl, Weber, Hummel, Rics, Mendelssohn, Meyerbeer, Spohr, Marschner, Lindpaintner, Mayscder, Strauss. German Inventions are— Gunpowder, by Berthold Schwartz at Freiburg, 1348. Watches by Heele, at Nlirnberg, 1510. The air-pump, by Guericke at Magdeburg, 1G50. Lithography, by Senefelder, at Munich, 1800. Steam-press, by Konig, 1812. The two greatest blessings Germany conferred upon the rest of Europe are—- The Art of Printing , by Gutcmbcrg, at Mentz, 143G ; The Reformation , by Luther, at Wittenberg, 1517.— A. J. n. For a history of the countries upon the Rhine under the Romans, and during the middle ages, see Yogt, Rheinische Geschichtcn und Sagen, 3 vols. 8vo. Frankfurt-a-M. 1817. 40. Some Peculiarities op German Manners. A fondness for titles, orders, and high-sounding forms of address, which was ever the characteristic of the Germans, though perhaps less intense than formerly, has by no means yet disappeared. The German is scarcely happy until ho can Germany. 40. peculiarities of german manners. 221 hang- a little bit of striped riband from his button-hole, and every effort of in- teiest and exeition is made to increase the number ot them, and of the crosses and stars which dangle from them. This is the eagerly coveted object of every placeman. “ There are two things,” says the Eckensteher, u that a Beamte cannot avoid— Death , and the third class of the Red Eagle.” At one of the diplomatic meetings during the Congress at Vienna, when all the members were assembled in the hall of conference, a foreign envoy ap¬ proached Prince Mettemich, and begged him to point out Lord Castlercagli. The Prince indicated to him the English minister, who Avore neither star nor uniform. “ Comment ?” said the doubting diplomatic ; “ il n’a pas dc decora¬ tion ?”— u Ma foi,” replied Prince Mettemich, 11 e’est bien distingue.” One habit of German society, which cannot fail sometimes to occasion a smile to an Englishman, though it costs him some trouble to acquire it, is the necessity of addressing everybody, Avhcthcr male or female, not by their oavu name, but by the titles of the office which they hold. To accost a gentleman, as is usual in England, Avith Sir (Mein Ilerr), if not considered among the Germans themselves as an actual insult, is at least not complimentary; it is requisite to find out his office or profession. Madame and Mademoiselle, addressed to German ladies, arc equally terms of inferiority. The commonest title to Avhich everybody aspires is that of Councillor (Path), which is modified and extended by various affixes and prefixes : there is a rath for every profession: an architect is a Baurath; an advocate a Justizrath, &c. &c.; and a person Avith no profession at all contrives to be made allofrath (court councillor), a very unmeaning title, Avhich is generally borne by persons Avho were never in a situation to give advice to the court. The dignity of Staatsrath (privy councillor) is given to members of the administration ; some real dignity is at¬ tached to it, and the persons bearing it are further addressed by the title of excellency. The title Professor is much abused, as it is certainly appropriated by many persons who haA r e no real claim to it by their learning or office. It is better, in conversing Avith a Gorman, to give a person a rank greater than he is entitled to than to fall beneath the mark. Geheimrath, for example, is higher than Professor. It is upon this principle that an Englishman is sometimes ad¬ dressed by the common people, to his great surprise, as Herr Graf (Mr. Count), and often as Eucr Gnaden (Your Grace). u Every man A\ r ho holds any public office, should it be merely that of an under clerk, with a paltry salary of 40/. a year, must be gratified by hearing his title, not his name. Even absent persons, when spoken of, arc generally designated by their official titles, however humble and unmeaning they may be. The ladies are not behind in asserting their claims to honorary appellations. All over Ger¬ many a Avife insists upon taking the title of her husband, Avith a feminine termi¬ nation, There is Madame general-ess, Madame privy councillor-ess, Madame daybook-keeper-ess, and a hundred others.”— Pussel. Lead and see Kotzebue’s amusing ridicule of this, in his Comedy called Die Deutschcn Kleinstadter. These titles sometimes extend to an almost unpronounceable length; only think, for instance, of addressing a lady as Frau Oberconsistorialdirectorin (Mrs. Directress of the Upper Consistory Court). This may be avoided, hoAveA r er, by substituting the Avords Gnadige Frau (Gracious Madame) in addressing a lady. It must at the same time be obseiwed, that this fondness for titles, and especially for the prefix von (of, equivalent to the French de, and originally denoting the pos¬ sessor of an estate), is, to a certain extent, a vulgarity from Avhich the upper classes of German society are free. The rulers of Germany take advantage of the national vanity, and lay those upon whom they confer the rank under obligation; Avhile they, at the same time, levy a tax upon the dignity proportionate to its eleva¬ tion ; thus a mere Hofrath pays from 30 to 40 dollars annually, and tfio higher dignities a more considerable sum. If, liOAveyer, the title is acquired by merit, no Sect. III. 222 40. PECULIARITIES OF GERMAN MANNERS. tax is paid, but merely a contribution to a fund for tlie widows and children of the class. Certain forms and titles arc also prefixed on the address of a letter: thus a Count of the high nobility and ancient empire must be addressed Erlaucht (Illus¬ trious) ; a Count of the lesser noblesse, Hochgeborener Ilcrr (High-born Sir); a baron and a minister, even though not of a noble birth, is called Hochwohls geboren ; a merchant or roturier must content himself with being termed AVohl- (well) geboren; while Hochcdel (high noble) is ironically applied to trades¬ men. “ In one respect, in Germany, I think politeness is carried too far—I mean in the perpetual act of pulling off the hat. Speaking ludicrously of it, it really be¬ comes expensive , for, with a man who has a large acquaintance in any public place, his hat is never two minutes at rest.”— Nimrod’s Letters from Holstein. A curious instance of the extent to which this practice of bowing is carried occurred to the writer in a small provincial town in the S. of Geimany. At the entrance of the public promenade in the Grande Place he observed notices painted on boards, which at first he imagined to contain some police regulations, or important order of the magistracy of the town; upon perusal, however, it proved to be an ordonnance to this effect:—“ For the convenience of promenaders, it is particularly requested that the troublesome custom of saluting by taking off the hat should here be dispensed with.” It is not to friends alone that it is necessary to doff the hat, for, if the friend with whom you are walking meets an acquaintance to whom he takes off his hat, you must do the same, even though you never saw him before. German civility, however, does not consist in outward forms alone, and a tra¬ veller will do well to conform, as soon as possible, to the .manners of the country, even down to the mode of salutation, troublesome as it is. If he continue unbend¬ ing, he will be guilty of rudeness: and on entering any public office, even the office of the schnellposts, the underlings of the place, down to the book-keeper, will require him to take off his hat, if he does it not of his own accord. An Eng¬ lish traveller repaired to the police-office at Berlin to have his passport signed, and, having waited half an hour, said to the secretary to whom he had delivered it, “ Sir, I think you have forgotten my passport.” “ Sir,” replied the man of office, “ I think you have forgotten your hat!” In thus recommending to travellers the imitation of certain German customs, it is not meant, be it observed, to insist on the practice prevalent among the German men of saluting their male friends with a kiss on each side of the cheek. It is not a little amusing to observe this, with us feminine , mode of greeting, exchanged between two whiskered and mustachioed giants of the age of 50 or GO. “ Smoking is a most important branch of the business of life of almost every German of every condition; and to say the truth, I am rather inclined to think it a good thing for the common people. If they did not smoke, they would probably drink more.”— Lord Dudley. Universal as is the practice of smoking throughout Germany, it is entirely prohibited by tlie police in the streets of the great capitals ; and persons ignorant of this regulation, or wilfully infringing it, arc often stopped by the sentinels on duty, and compelled to remove the pipe or cigar from their mouths. Public Gardens and Taverns. —The outskirts of every German town abound in gardens and houses of public recreation, whither the inhabitants, not merely of the lower orders, but of the most respectable classes also, repair on summer afternoons, and especially on Sunday, to breathe the fresh air and forget the cares of business in the enjoyment of coffee, ices, beer, and the never-absent pipe. A band of excellent music is not wanting; indeed it forms the great attraction, and is usually advertised in the papers for a day or two beforehand ; it performs for the entertainment of high and low, and the exciting tones of the waltz seldom fail to originate a danco, in which the citizens’ wives and Germany. 40. peculiarities of german manners. 223 daughters, with their husbands and sweethearts, whirl round for horn's in the dizzy maze. It is true the time when these places arc most frequented, and when the music and dancing are kept up with the greatest spirit, is the Sunday afternoon, which may, perhaps, shock the feelings of an English or Scotch man, accustomed to the rigorous Sabbath-keeping of his own country. A dispassionate examination, however, of the two systems, and of the effects produced by each, will probably induce him to pause before lie gives unqualified approbation and preference to that of his own country. 1 These places of amusement do not open till after the hours of morning service in the churches, and most of the persons who resort to them have previously attended a church. A large portion are tradesmen who have been shut up in their shops, and artisans who have been working hard, all the week. They come ill their best clothes, and accompanied by wives and children, who, he it observed, are always made parties in these amusements; they content themselves with coffee, beer, or wine, in moderate quantities; spirits are never seen, and instances of noisy turbulence and drunkenness are almost unknown on these occasions. Such recreation, even with the mirthful exercise of dancing superadded, is surely harmless in comparison with the solitary orgies of the pot-house and gin-shop, to which the same class of persons but too often devote their Sundays in our country, squandering in loathsome intemperance the earnings of the week, which ought to be devoted to the wants of the starving and neglected wife and family, who are left behind in their close and miserable home. A certain intercourse and intermixture, also, is kept up between the upper and lower classes at these meetings, which cannot fail to have an advantageous influ¬ ence in the relation between the different members of German society. The artisan does not jostle his superiors, or strive to imitate them dress and appear¬ ance, nor is he looked down upon as an intruder by them. All classes, high and low, mix together on an equal footing, and without restraint. The fact is, in Germany, perhaps more than in any other country, not only the privileges of nobility, but of all grades, are so clearly understood and kept distinct, that all parties, however intimate they may seem to be in public, know the exact bound¬ aries of their position in society, and act accordingly; hence the noble feels at ease, and is conscious that his urbanity will not be abused; and the rest arc influenced by a similar feeling. K irmes .—“ The Germans are not ashamed of being pleased with trifles, nor of being pleased in very humble company; they think only whether they enjoy; and if their enjoyment costs little money and little trouble so much the better. They love their old customs and traditional festivals much better than we do, and keep to them more faithfully. Formerly, in England, many days were days not only of religious observance, but of festivity for the people; and each had its appro¬ priate shows and pastimes : but these are nearly all forgotten; and the few which are remembered are turned into days of importunate begging, or coarse riot; and the pleasures are such as people of refinement and taste can take no share in, nor love to witness: and thus they sink lower and lower, and the chasm between rich and poor grows wider and wider, for want of some common enjoyment to which the high might give order and refinement, and the low cordiality and sim¬ plicity : and such an enjoyment is Kirmes.” “A yearly festival is held in every village, when the poor people, who work hard all the year, meet together as on a Sunday, go to church together in their gayest clothes, and then make merry and enjoy themselves. It was, originally, the anniversary of the day on which the village church was consecrated;—[in some parts of Germany it is called Kirchweihe, the dedication of the church;] —but as it was found that these anniversaries often fell at inconvenient times for the country people, they are, by common consent, held in autumn, just after the vintage. At this joyous season, the country poople are in high spirits, and have 224 40. PECULIARITIES OF GERMAN MANNERS. Sect. III. more leisure and rather fuller purses than usual, and arc well disposed to rejoice together in the blessing of their harvest. Every morning gay parties walk about on those beautiful hills, and those who can afford it dine at the inns, at every one of which is an excellent table-d’hote at 1 o’clock; and after a merry dinner and a cup of coffee they adjourn to the hall-room. The Kirmes at considerable vil¬ lages draws people from all the towns and villages for miles and miles round; the tables-d’hote, as well as the halls, are of several degrees, so that even the poorest peasants may sit down to a good and social dinner adapted to their humble means. In the small villages there is most likely only one inn, and consequently only one table-d’hote; hut almost all have more than one ball-room, even though the village consists hut of a few poor cottages. This hall-room is often a large shed without windows, hut always with an excellent floor, and a little orchestra at ono end: and this, when lighted up, and filled with happy faces, and with such a company of musicians as many a fashionable assembly in England cannot boast, is no despicable scene of festivity.” * **• #-*-** * u I have nothing to tell you about the beauty and grace [of the rustic dancers], except that they had none; they had, however, cheerfulness and perfect absence of affectation, which are always agreeable. The kind and familiar deportment of their superiors inspires them with such confidence that they never seem to conceive that their innocent pleasures can excite disgust or ridicule; and you may be sure they take care not to do anything which may drive away those who share in their amusements. * * * The scene of the ball-room was one of hearty enjoyment; hut I saw not the slightest approach to rudeness, indecorum, or drunkenness; it was the merriment of people who feel that others have a good opinion of them, and an interest in their comfort.”— A Letter from Bonn. The Turnpikemcm. —A characteristic feature of the German character is the love of warmth in their clothes and habitations, and an unwillingness to expose them¬ selves to the air. This effeminacy prevails even among the lower orders, who seem to breathe with reluctance when removed from the favourite atmosphere of their stoves, their tobacco-smoke, and the fumes of their beer. It is shown in the great unwillingness which an Englishman experiences, on the part of his fellow-passengers in the cabins of steamers, and in public coaches, to allow a window to be open, even in warm weather; but it is most characteristically exhibited in an ingenious contrivance by which the turnpike-keeper avoids the necessity of leaving his chimney-corner, or exposing more than the extremity of his nose to the cold. A scene like the following occurs at the barriere in some parts of Germany :— u On the horses stopping, which they seemed most loyally to do of their own accord, the person whose office it was to collect this road- money, or chaussee-geld, in process of time appeared at a window with a heavy pipe hanging in his mouth, and in his hand an immense long stick, to the end of which there was affixed a small box containing a ticket, in exchange for which I silently dropped my money into this till. Not a word was spoken, hut, with the gravity of an angler, the man having drawn in his rod, a whiff of tobacco was vomited from his mouth, and then the window, like the transaction—closed.”— Bubbles from the Brunncn. Travelling Journeymen or Handwerlis-Burschen. —No one can travel along any of the great roads in Germany without meeting, almost at every mile, a number of young men journeying on foot. The characteristics of the class are, a pipe in the mouth without fail, and generally a stick in the hand, with an enormous knapsack on the hack, from the sides of which a pair of hoots arc usually seen to project. They are often respectably dressed, wearing a blouse (smockfrock), and having then' hats carefully covered with an oil-skin, so that the traveller is sur¬ prised when, as his carriage comes in sight, they take off their hats, and coin-. Germany. 41. german watering-places. 225 mcncc begging for alms. These arc wandering journeymen; they are often not undeserving objects of charity; and a German will generally put a few kreutzers or groschcn in the cap which is held out, to help the owner on his way. Uy an ancient regulation prevailing very generally throughout Germany and Switzerland, no apprentice can obtain his freedom and become a master until lie has passed a certain number of years in travelling, and in exercising liis call in g in foreign parts. The intention of this is, that he should gain experience in his craft, and learn the methods practised in other countries besides his own, as well as some knowledge of the world. When he first sets out he receives from the corporation or trade to which he belongs a book in which lie keeps a diary of his wanderings (wanderbuch), and in which those from whom he may receive employment also write certificates of good and bad conduct. As soon as the novice reaches a place where he proposes to stop, he applies to the members of his own trade, and shows his credentials. If work is to bo had, he takes up his residence till it is finished; if not, lie is pro¬ vided with clean straw and a roof to shelter him, with now and then the scanty pittance of a kreutzer or two from the funds of the guild, and next morning must trudge forward on his way to some other place where his services may be wanted. It will easily be understood that if work is scarce, and the apprentice have nothing of his own, ho must often be reduced to great straits, and compelled to have recourse to the charity of the more wealthy : fcchten, literally to fight, struggle, is with the journeymen the slang phrase for begging. (Sec Gothc’s Wilhelm Meister.) Though there are many inducements to idleness in this system, it is not sur¬ prising that it produces an intelligent set of tradesmen. The writer of this has frequently conversed with common shoemakers and bakers, speaking 3 or 4 dif¬ ferent languages, well informed as to the state of most of the countries of Europe, and possessing a general fund of knowledge far superior to what is found in per¬ sons of the same class in England. When the period of their wanderings (wanderschaft) is expired, the apprentice returns home, produces a specimen of his skill, and, if it is approved of, receives his freedom, and is allowed to set up for himself. 41. German Watering-places. With the Germans an excursion to a watering-place in the summer is essential to existence, and the necessity of such a visit is confined to no one class in par¬ ticular, but pervades all, from emperors and princes down to tradesmen and citi¬ zens’ wives. The number of bathing-places and mineral springs in Germany alone now amounts to several hundred : and every year adds to the list names which, though seldom heard in England, arc not without their little sets and coteries. The royal and imperial guests repair to them not merely to get rid of the trammels and pomp of sovereignty, though it is universally the case that they move about with no more show than private individuals, but they also seek such occasions for holding private congresses, for forming secret treaties, alliances, &c.; family arrangements and matrimonial connections are also not unfrequently there concocted. The minister repairs thither to refresh himself from the toils of office, but usually brings his portfolio in his travelling carriage, nor does he altogether even here bid adieu to intrigue and politics. The invalid comes to recruit his strength—the debauchee to wash himself inside and out, and string his nerves for a fresh campaign of dissipation—the shopkeeper and the merchant come to spend their money and gaze on their betters—and the sharper and black¬ leg, who swarm at all the baths, to enrich themselves at the gaming-tables at the expense of their fellow guests. 'I’he watering-places in Germany seem naturally grouped according to the vol¬ canic soil or other peculiarities of the mountain chains near which most of them arc situate. The principal groups arc the following:— T Q L o 226 41. GERMAN WATERING-PLACES. Sect, III. A. The Cis-Rhenane Baths, round the Eifel, and its cognate hills the Ardennes, viz.—1. Aix-la-Chapelle, or Aachen; 2. Burtschcid, or Borcette; 3. Bcrtrich, near the Moselle; 4. Krcutznach, on the Nahe; 5. Neuenahr, on the Ahr. Spa, the German Spa par excellence, is hardly to he counted, as it is now no longer in Germany. B. The Baths of the Taunus, round which they circle in Nassau and Hesse, viz. — 5. Ems; G. Schwalbach; 7. Sclilangenhad; 8. 'Wiesbaden; 9. Weilbach; 10. Soden; 11. Selters Fachingen (waters); 12. Homburg; 13. Nauheim; 14. Wilhelmsbad. C. The Baths of Franconia, at the foot of the Rhongcbirge, viz.—15. Brack - cnau; 16. Kissingcn; 17. Bocklet. H. The Baths of the Black Forest, viz.—18. Baden-Baden; 19. Wildbad; 20. Rippoldsau; 21. Cannstadt. E. The Baths of Bohemia, viz.—22. Carlsbad; 23. Marienbad,—Licbcwcrda ; 24. Franzensbad, or Eger; 25. Tcplitz. F. The Baths of Silesia, viz.—26. Charlottenbrunn; 27. Warmbrunn; 28. Landeck, county of Glatz ; 29. Rcincrz, county of Glatz. (Grafcnberg Wasser- kur ? Austrian Silesia.) G. The Baths of the Alps, viz.—30. Gastcin; 31. Isclil; 32. Baden, near Vienna; 33. Ileilbrunn, Bavaria; 34. Kreuth, Bavaria. H. The Baths of Westphalia and Central Germany, viz.—35. Driburg; 36. Pyrmont; 37. Eilsen; 38. Hof-Geismar; 39. Ncundorf; 40. Rehburg; 41. Alcxisbad. I. Sea Baths, viz.—42. Nordemey, Wangeroog, and Heligoland; 43. Dobbc- ran; 44. Travcmiinde; 45. Putbus; 46. Swinemiinde. Carlsbad, Tcplitz, and Briickenau are the resort of emperors and kings; Baden and Ems of grand dukes, princes, and high nobility. Wiesbaden is a sort of Margate, whither the overflowing population of Frankfurt repairs on Sunday afternoon; whilst other baths, like Schlangenbad, Ivissingcn, are frequented by those whose business is to be cured, and who are strenuously endeavouring, by a few weeks of abstinence and exercise, to relieve themselves from the effects of over eating and drinking. About the end of May the annual migration begins; in June the whole re¬ spectable population of Germany may be said to be in motion; July is usually the height of the season ; the baths arc then crammed, and it is necessary to be¬ speak accommodation beforehand. There is but little fluctuation till the end of August; then the tide of visitors begins to ebb ; but if September be fine, many linger behind; and a few remain till the end of October, unless a succession of rainy weather put them to flight earlier. “The effect of this natural passion for periodical bathing is, that throughout Germany the Kurzcit (curing-time—season) of the baths, about three months in the summer, forms that sort of general break up , to use a familar phrase, in the system of town life, which the rising of Parliament and the pursuit of partridges and pheasants effects in the season of the British capital. The capitals of the princes are deserted—court entertainments cease—the ambassadors and general officers obtain leave of absence from their posts—‘ the weary statesman ’ quits his bureau, and the merchant his counting-house—and the cumbrous retinue of the princes and their courts are put in motion about the month of July for some favour¬ ite scene of picturesque beauty—where nature has placed her fountains of health amidst the wildest and most beautiful features of landscape—as if to mark out the spot at once for the solace and invigoration of the sick and debilitated, and the recreation and indulgence of the sons of pleasure and of toil. During three months all that is distinguished in Germany is busied in the pursuit of health and dissipation at Tcplitz, Carlsbad, Baden, Tyi-mont, Wiesbaden, Ems, Schwal¬ bach, and Aix-la-Chapcllc. Festivity and forgetfulness of care arc the general order of the day. State and ceremony, and titled hauteur, arc in a great degree Germany. 41. german watering-places. 227 thrown aside in the easy intercourse of the bathing-place ; all ranks meet at the balls, the concerts, the saloons, and the wells. The prince and the tradesman lay down their stakes side by side at the Rouge-et-Noir table. A princess docs not disdain a donkey-ride on the mountains, and a sovereign duke may be seen at the table-d’hote side by side with a merchant or subaltern officer. All the machinery of amusement is to be found here—all the artists and artificers that contribute to the enjoyments and the follies of indulgence—actors from Vienna—gaming-table keepers and cooks from Paris—money-lenders from Frankfurt—singers from Ber¬ lin—shopkeepers, voituriers, pastry-cooks, mountebanks, dancing-masters, donkey- lenders, blacklegs, mistresses, lacqueys—all bustling and contriving in their seve¬ ral vocations to reap the short harvest of profit which the season affords. The scene of bustling and vivacity, occasioned by the concentration of several thou¬ sands of gay strangers, the greater part of some style and consideration, with all the proportionate cortege of accessories and dependents, in a little village of 500 inhabitants, may be easily imagined—the arrivals, the equipages, the varied costumes and physiognomies of different nations—the uniforms, the deco¬ rations, the crowded promenades, the tables, the balls, the fetes champetres , the theatres, the concerts, and the effect of all this revelling and exuberant dissipa¬ tion, infinitely heightened by the scene being laid in some deep sylvan valley, where the silence and serene beauty of nature contrast strongly with the artificial enjoyments and agitating pursuits of the busy denizens. Perhaps you will think that the mere circumstance of nature having so lavishly bestowed on the Ger¬ mans these Ilygeian fountains, with their picturesque scenes, is of itself a suffi¬ cient cause to account for the fondness with which they are frequented. But other causes will be probably found. The pleasures of a country life are as yet almost unknown in Germany ; those mingled pleasures of enjoyment of scenery and rural beauties, domestic tranquillity and fire-side comforts, which so many of our own poets have enthusiastically described, and which every Englishman relishes. With the exception of the chateaux of a few nobles, and the villas near a few mercantile towns, a gentleman’s country house is hardly to be seen in Ger¬ many. The picturesque scenes, which are so abundant, never appear habited or habitable. Nature has here always a character of wildness and loneliness. The Germans likewise have no one great capital, possessing all those attractions which a metropolis affords. The provincial townsman has no Paris or London to fly to for amusement or change of scene. The summer season at the baths is thus the great object of desire, the rendezvous of friends, the indulgence to the young, and the relaxation of the busy and the care-worn. “ Gaiety has a more decided character at a German watering-place—pleasure is more the avowed business of everybody ; and if ennui may be the motive of as many visits to Aix-la-Chapelle as to similar places in Great Britain, the remedy here appears more succesful; for you can rarely read in a single countenance, as you often may in the libraries of Brighton or Cheltenham, the inveterate disease of which persons come to be cured. The system of the day commences with a bath taken before breakfast. Afterwards follow exclusions in the environs, walks in the gardens, visits to the cafes and billiard-rooms, and, above all, the pleasures of the Redoubt,- or Grand Saloon, which occupy the gay world till dinner, 2 or 3. This last-mentioned place of rendezvous is the greatest centre of attraction ; and, with the exception of much more gaiety, more avowed vice, and the absence of all pretence at rational resources, acts the part of the library at an English watering- place. The Redoubt is a large handsome building, the ground-floor open, with a colonnade in front, appropriated to prints, toy-shops, &c. After depositing your hat and stick with the gendarmes at the door, you enter the grand saloon—in¬ variably a splendid room. On one side a crowd of motley but well-dressed and gay-looking persons (I regret to say of both sexes) are pressing over each other’s heads, round large banks of Rouge et Noir. An anxious silence reigns, only interrupted by the rattling of the roulette, the jingling of the Napoleons and 228 41. WATERING-PLACES, GAMING-HOUSES. Sect. III. francs, and the titters and jokes of the few whose speculations arc a matter of mere frolic. The play is frequently very high, hut the hank does not refuse the stake of a solitary franc. Pretty interesting women were putting down their Napoleons, and seeing them swept away, or drawing them in doubled, with a sang froid which proved that they were no novices in that employment .”—Autumn near the Rhine. These German assembly-rooms arc usually the property of the sovereign of the state in avIioso territory the watering-place is situated, and the gaming-houses are tolerated by him, upon the principle that, as it is almost impossible to prevent the scandal altogether, it is better to control it by taking such establishments under his own surveillance, and to render them beneficial to the country by levying a high tax on them, than to prohibit them entirely. The Licensed Gaming-houses at the German watering-places are a disgrace and shame to the minor princes, who not only tolerate them, but derive revenue from granting the permis¬ sion, to the destruction of morality and honesty among their own subjects, as well as among thousands of strangers. The Austrian and Prussian governments are a noble exception, prohibiting all gaming within their dominions. English travel¬ lers should be placed especially on their guard against the sharpers who haunt the continental watering-places. The chances of being robbed arc much greater than was formerly the case in Paris, as none of the precautionary measures are taken to prevent cheating in Germany. The princes who tolerate such a system must be content to bear the reproach of avarice and cupidity. The evening’s entertainment concludes with a ball once or twice a week. A gentleman may ask any lady to dance, without the formality of being presented to her; but this kind of introduction docs not entitle him to approach her as an acquaintance on future occasions when he may meet her. To be properly enjoyed, a German, like an English watering-place, should be visited in company with friends, and there is little society to be found out of your own circle ; so that a solitary traveller, after having gazed about him for a day or two, will commonly not hesitate to take flight, in order to escape from ennui. This work does not pretend to describe the medical properties and sanitary powers of the various mineral springs; those who repair to them with a view of taking the waters or the baths should consult their own physician before leaving home. It is also prudent and customary to ask the advice of the physician resi¬ dent at the baths as well before commencing a course of waters. Physicians* Fees .—The usual fee to a foreign physician, from an English patient, is 5 fr. a visit. The mode and extent of using the waters, whether internally or externally, can only be regulated by a medical man acquainted, if possible, with the case and constitution of each person, and decidedly experienced in the qualities of the particular waters ; but as a rule the resident physician must be consulted before drinking or bathing. „ Those who travel in a party with the intention of repairing to any fashionable watering-place, in the height of the season, should not omit to write beforehand either to the keeper of some hotel, the bad-meister, or the physician, to secure rooms for them, if -they wish to avoid the inconvenience of finding, on their arrival, that every bed and room in the place are engaged, an occurrence by no means unfrequent. 42. Music. “Music naturally makes too large a figure in the expectations of many pleasure- travellers to be passed over here; the more so because what they will find, and where they will find it, have not been stated with any completeness, fair com¬ parison, or adequate knowledge of the subject, since the days of Burney; and lie 42. music. Germany. 220 wrote at a period when German music had hardly taken its peculiar form and colour. “ The tourist will find an Opera in almost every town; its prices of admission moderate, and its performances on the average very good as regards orchestra and chorus. The musical establishments of Berlin, Dresden, Hamburg, Bruns¬ wick, Frankfort, Cassel, and Hanover, are the most eminent among those within the range of this volume. Most of the above theatres are court dependencies, presided over by composers of some note, and implying life-appointments for the principal artists engaged. Hence very mature vocalists are a phenomenon more common than engaging. Further, the preference of the general public for translated Italian or French musical dramas, and the limited number of classical German operas which keep the stage (a dozen at most),—add to this the admitted disregard of many among the classical composers for the refinements of vocal science,—have destroyed the possibility of a school of singing being formed; and kept that branch of art at a level, the lowness and unrefinement of which will strike cars used to Italian and French execution. One or two of the master- works of Gluck, Beethoven, Weber, Mozart, and Spohr, however, in most cases, form a nominal part of every theatrical repertory. The summer and autumn are generally ‘ the flat seasons 5 of Opera in the large towns,—save in cases like the Frankfort and Leipzig fairs, where the managers endeavour to secure some groat attraction to entertain the concourse of guests expected. The traveller, however, has always the chance of encountering some favourite singer or actor on 1 a starring’ excursion ; or, as they phrase it in Germany, playing gastrollcn. It was not thought strange in recent years for the fanatico who longed to hear any particular opera in the theatrical repertory of a given town to advertise his wishes in the local newspaper,—of course in a complimentary fashion,—with a fair chance of their being acceded to within a few days. “ In orchestral music the Germans are generally far in advance of all other people. This pleasure too is more easily accessible than in any other country ; — it is best to be enjoyed in the late autumn and winter, when the world of artists and \ audiences has come home ‘ from the baths.’ The Symphonic Concerts of Berlin, and the subscription concerts at the Gewand Haus of Leipzig, will give the tra¬ veller'the ‘ true reading ’ of the works of the great German symphonists, and afford him also a chance of hearing the best solo players, home and foreign. They arc also of a wise brevity, as compared with- our more cumbrous and costly enter¬ tainments. The ‘ high places’ of chamber-music were recently Berlin, Leipzig, and Brunswick, each of which towns possessed a resident quartett of stringed instrumentalists, possessing very high renown. But all periodical music is more or less interrupted by the fine weather, which tempts the world from home. il From June till September the tourist has the chance of falling in with some celebration or festival, akin to our own provincial ‘ music meetings,’ but different, inasmuch as the chorus mainly consists of amateurs. These meetings are, on the average, interesting in the music selected, excellent as regards execution from the heartiness, zeal, and patience in co-operation which pervade it, and most pleasantly social. It is the fault of bad English manners, if any Englishman, having claims on the good society of his own country, finds himself 1 a stranger amongst strangers’ on these occasions—a very slight introduction (and of course some power of communication) securing him a good-natured welcome. Those who winter in Berlin will of course make an effort to attend the meetings of the Sing Academic. This may bo called the best and most renowned amateur vocal society in Europe, and its members occasionally, for purposes of charity, give public performances on a grand scale. Gentlemen, too, will do well to gain access to such meetings of the Lieder-tafel societies as may fall in their way These are singing parties of gentlemen only, who execute the part-music ot German composers with great spirit and energy ; both the music and the exc- 43. CLUBS AND READING-ROOMS. 230 Sect. III. cution calculated, by tlicir difference of style, especially to interest those who care for glees and madrigals at home. “ The best orchestral mass, probably, now to be heard in Europe, is that performed in the cathedral at Cologne. The organs in Dresden, in the Sophien Kirche , the Catholic Church, and one or two others, built by the Silbermanns, are well worth an effort to hear. “ Lastly, for those who search less scientifically than the traveller to whom the above hints arc addressed, most attractive cheap music abounds in Germany. Almost every town has its Casino or private subscription club; its pleasure garden, and other public resorts, to which every one is admitted, where a good band, often of wind-instruments alone, may be heard to play good music to good company for a very small price of entrance. And these unpretending concerts (the very absence of pretension of which is an evidence of popular taste, as dis¬ tinct from fashion) are sometimes diversified by very fair quartett singing. For the characteristic of German musical execution is, that generally every one occupied in its production takes pains in its production because he likes it. In most of the above matters the traveller has hotter chance of gaining available and precise information from the landlord of his hotel than in the place where he would naturally seek it—at the music-sliop. The want of accuracy and back¬ wardness as regards the amusements of the day, to be complained of on the part of those managing the latter establishments, will often puzzle and inconvenience a prompt and impatient Englishman.”— II. F. C. 43. Clues and Leading-rooms. In all the principal German towns Societies corresponding nearly with a London club, and known by such names as the Casino, Museum, Harmonic, or the like, arc to be found. “ They are very rational establishments, fitted up with a commodious elegance, which make their resources doubly attractive. The reading-rooms are stocked with a profusion of journals, reviews, and pam¬ phlets, literary and political, from all parts of Germany; besides the French, and sometimes English and Italian newspapers. There is often a library of books of reference, and a conversation-room, where talkative quidnuncs may be relieved from the silence prescribed in the reading-rooms, besides billiard-tables and card-rooms, and sometimes a good table-d’hote provided by a restaurateur of the establishment. The assembly-rooms, which form part of the edifice, are only open on occasions of balls, concerts, and evening societies : to these ladies are admitted, and they are kept sacred from the fumes of tobacco, which fre¬ quently perfume and tinge the other handsome apartments. The casinos are supported by subscriptions,—noblesse and bourgeoisie, including common trades¬ men, being alike members. A foreign traveller obtains easy access to them by means of his banker, and very often through the landlord of his hotel, and finds much sociable respectability, as well as convenience aud resources, in them.”— Autumn near the Rhine . 44. German Burial-grounds. One of the peculiarities which distinguish Germany from England is the different light in which the abodes of the dead are regarded by the living. Before a traveller completes his survey of a German town, it will not be unpro¬ fitable or uninteresting to visit the public burial-ground—the “ court of peace,” or “God’s Acre,” to give the German names literally translated. In England the churchyard is generally a small space in the precincts of the church, which is regarded as little else than a passage leading to it; or where it is separated, as it happens in many of our populous cities, it is a large enclosure overgrown with weeds and rank grass, which would indicate that it was “by the world Germany . 44. GERMAN BURIAL-GROUNDS. 231 forgot,” except for the high walls, which serve the double purpose of keeping out nightly depredators (almost the only class who take an interest in its con¬ tents), and of screening the hateful object from the sight of the rest of the world. The French appear to introduce the national frivolity even into their burial-grounds, and have given to Pere-la-Chaise the air of a cimetiere ornee which is hardly befitting the silent city of the dead. In Germany the public cemetery is a spot in which the community seems to take much interest. It is a place of public resort at all hours,—its gates stand always open. It is planted with a few trees, so that its aspect may not be altogether cheerless; but it is more thickly planted with crosses, gravestones, and monuments, congregated together, thick as a forest, slowly advancing foot by foot, year after year, to occupy all the vacant space. The inventions of the mason and carpenter in fashioning a tombstone rarely go beyond a cross or an urn, a broken pillar or stone sarcophagus ; the grave of the soldier is sometimes marked by a sword or helmet; but there arc other tokens of honour and respect which show a con¬ tinuance of attention on the part of the living. Gravestones of various shapes, with lengthy epitaphs, are common among us : here, however, the more touching and trustworthy symptoms of continued recollection are everywhere observed in the fresh chaplet or nosegay, the little border of flowers newly dug, the basin of holy water, all placed by the side of the funereal hillock. At one end of the enclosure is usually a cloister or arcade, under which repose, beneath more sumptuous monuments, the rich and the noble. Communicating with it also is generally a building where the bodies of the dead arc placed, in conformity with a police regulation adopted in most German towns, within 12 hours after death. At the appointed time the dead-cart calls at the door of high or low; and the only distinction made is, that the former repose in an apartment better fitted, hung with black, and lighted by a dismal lamp. In this gloomy chamber, the dead bodies, deposited in their coffins, await the time appointed for interment. In many places, particularly at Frankfurt, a peculiar precaution is adopted to guard against the accident of burial in cases of suspended animation. The fingers of the prostrate corpse are placed in the loops of a string or bell-rope attached to an alarm clock, which is fixed in the apartment of an attendant appointed to be on the watch. The least pulsation in the body would give the alarm, and medical aid would instantly be called in. It is melancholy, but impressive, to walk round the Fricdhof until you come to the spot where the ground has been fresh turned up; for every inch is disposed of systematically, and the vacant space is encroached on only as it is needed. Here may be seen the fresh-painted, newly-gilt monument; then the grave on which the turf has been replaced, and has not united ; beyond it the heap of bare mould, the grave of yesterday; and last of all, the open chasm with boards at its sides, gaping in readiness for those who are lying stiff hard by. ( 233 ) SECTION IV. PRUSSIA—NORTHERN GERMANY—THE RHINE, &c. Introductory Information. 45. Passports. — 46. Custom-houses. —47. Prussian Money. — 4S. Travel- liny in Prussia; Posting or Extra Post; Roads; 'Pulls. — 49. Schnellposts .— 50. Inns , Routes. (The names of places are printed in italics only in those Routes where they are described.) route tage 34. The Rhine (B). Arnhem to Co¬ logne, by Emmerich, Wesel , Oberhausen , Duisburg , and Dusscldorf — Railway - 237 35. Nijmegen or Arnhem to Co¬ logne by Clcvcs, and Gcl- dern or Xanten — Rail - 241 36. Aix-la-Chapelt e to Cologne — Railroad- - - 243 36 a. Aix-la-Chapelle, by Diissel- dorf, to Minden, Hanover, and Berlin —Railway - 260 37. The Rhine (C). Cologne to Coblenz - - - 261 38. The Rhine (D). Coblenz to Mayence - - - 283 45. Passports. Passports arc seldom demanded in the Prussian dominions from Englishmen. Tickets of Leave to reside in the towns (Aufenthalts-Seheinc) were abolished 1863. 46. Custom-houses. The onc-hoaded black eagle, and the alternate black and white stripe on toll-bars, doors, and sentry-boxes, invariably announce the Prussian frontier, and the vicinity of the douanc (Zollhaus). -LvVA U L Ij J. ii.U lb 39. The Ahr Valley — Remagen to Ahrweiler and Altenahr - 303 40. The Lower Eifel—Brohlonthe Rhine to the Lake of Laach , Mayen, and Liitzcrath - 306 41. Coblenz to Treves — Bert rich - 308 42. The Moselle— Treves to Co¬ blenz - - - 317 43. Aix-la-Chapclle to Treves - 323 44. Spa to Coblenz - - 325 45. The Upper Eifel—Priim to Gerolstein , Daun , and Liit- zerath - - - 326 46. Bingen to Treves - - 328 47. Cologne to Frankfurt a. M., by Siegburg and Giessen - 329 234 47. PRUSSIAN MONEY. Sect, IV. The Prussian custom-house system (§ 32) now prevails in the greater part of Germany, excepting Austria, and is sometimes administered by Prussian officials, even in the states of other princes. The examination is strict without being vexatious. The Prussian douanier (often an old soldier invalided) is above taking a bribe, or rather, government regulates matters so as to prevent his taking one. The person offering a bribe is even liable to punishment by law. Strangers are treated with invariable civility, provided they conduct themselves becomingly. The Hanse Towns, Hamburg and Bremen, and the Duchy of Ilolstcin, have not acceded to the Prussian tariff. 47. Prussian Money. The Prussian Silver Coins in use are— The Dollar (Thaler), containing 30 silver groschen (S. gr.), or 24 gute (good) groschen, = about 3s. English. (In Brunswick and Hanover accounts are still kept in good groschen).—The Double Dollar. The Dollar is divided into pieces of Marked containing gd, 3 cincn thaler - 10 silver groschen ’th, 6 - 5 - 12 th, 12 - - 2i - sV-h, 24 <* 3 ' g th, cin silber groschen. Copper Money:— 12 Pfenningc Pieces of 4, 3, 2, and 1 Pfenninge are coined. Taper Money (Kassen Anweisungen or Scheme), the most convenient, portable, and extensive currency in N. Germany, is issued in notes of the value of 1 thaler, 5 thalers, 10 thalers, 50 thalers, and upwards. As they are often called in, tra¬ vellers should not retain them in their possession, as they might do, for another journey, as there is no chance of obtaining value for them afterwards. Onc- dollar notes (value 3s.) are very useful. , Accounts must now be kept in Silver Groschen (S. gr.). Prussian Gold Coins are- Mivrked Double Friedrichs d’or 10 thaler =11 dol. 10 S. gr. = 1/. 13s. 7 \d. Single Friedrichs d’or 5 =5 dol. 20 S. gr. = 16s. 9 \d. Half Friedrichs d’or 24 =2 dol. 25 S. gr. = 8s. 4d. The Silver Dollars of Prussia go through all the states of the Zollverein (§ 32). The paper money is not always accepted out of Prussia; it is refused at the Saxon Post-office, and at many Railway Stations. The gold coins and the sub¬ divisions of the dollar are current in Prussia only. The coins of one German state (including Austria) are now a legal tender in any other. The exchange is fixed at the following scale :—4 Prussian dollars — 6 Austrian florins = 7 Bavarian or Frankfurt florins. The Kassen Scheine of other states do not pass readily in Prussia. “ It may be useful to warn English travellers that the values marked on German coins are sometimes not the value at which the coin passes. Thus the double Friedrichs d’or (not of Prussian coinage), though current at 11 dollars 10 S, gr., are marked X thaler; and the silver pieces marked 10 and 20 kreut- zers, and which are current at that value in Austria, arc worth 12 and 24 in English value - = Is. - = 6d. - = 3d. - = lfr Prussia. 48. TRAVELLING. 1 235 Bavaria, Baden, Wiirtemberg, Frankfurt, and wherever the currency consists of gulden of the value of 20c/. English. Value of Foreign Coins in Prussian dollars and S. gros. :— An English sovereign - shilling French Napoleon piece of 5 francs 1 franc - Dutch Willem = 10 guilders Dutch ducat guilder - German Kronthaler (crown) Conventions thaler Bavarian or Rhenish gulden Zwanziger, or piece of 24 krs. Doll. S. gr. = 6 20 = 0 10 = 5 10 = 1 10 = 0 8 = 5 20 = 3 5 = 0 17 = 1 16 = 1 11 = 0 17 = 0 8 48. Travelling in Prussia—Posting or Extra-post.—Roads.—Tolls. Posting or Extra Post. —A copy of the printed Posting Regulations for Prussia may be obtained at every post-office. The traveller will find them very much in his favour, and in no country is he better protected against imposition. The posting establishments of Prussia are managed by the government, and are very well conducted. The postmasters are a respectable class of men, often retired officers : in any disputes with postilions, &c., the traveller may generally refer to them with safety. At every stage the postmaster must present (without its being asked for) a printed receipt ( quittung ), including the charge for horses according to the number, for greasing wheels (schmiergeld), ostler (wagen- meister), and tolls (Chaussee, Damm, and Bruckc-geld), which must be paid in advance before setting out. Every horse costs 12L S. gr. per Germ. m. in the provinces bordering on the Rhine, and in Westphalia, which is the same rate as in France, but the Prussian horses are better. In other parts of Prussia the charge is only 10 S. gr. per shore. Postilions' Trinkgeld. —The postilion is entitled by the tariff to receive, for 2 horses, 5 S. gr.; for 3 or 4 horses, 7^ S. gr.; and for 5 or more horses, 7b S. gr. for each postilion per Germ. m. The postilion is not allowed to ash for anything above the tariff, but he expects something extra. In the Rhenish provinces they are usually paid at the rate of 1 horse; in Old Prussia they get from 8 to 10 S. gr. per Germ. m. Post Caleches. —Travellers not having a carriage of their own can be accommo¬ dated with a caleche (equivalent to our post-chaise), but open, and not equally good at every post station. The charge for such a carriage per stage varies from 7 ■} to 10 S. gr. Travellers desirous of getting over their ground expeditiously should without fail have recourse to the Laufzettel (§ 34). Tolls. —In posting, all charges for roads and barriers are included in the posD master’s ticket, and paid to him—a great convenience. 49. SCIIXELLrOSTS. The Prussian mail-coaches are called Schncllpostcn (§ 35); they arc generally well managed, being under the direction of the government, and the coach-office and post-office arc usually in the same building ; they go at the rate of about 6 236 49. SCHNELLPOSTS. 50. INNS. Sect. IV. m. an hour on an average, and are on the whole roomy and comfortable vehicles. The usual cost of travelling by them is 9 or 10 S. gr. per Germ, m., including postilions and everything else. It is entirely optional to give anything to the conductcur. The passport, properly signed, must be shown before a place can he taken, and the fare must he paid beforehand: a receipt is given in acknowledg¬ ment of it. The Prussian coaches have no outside places; and no difference is made in the price of the front or back part of the carriage, as is done in France. The places are all numbered, and those who apply first have the corner scats. In most cases, when all the places in the coach arc taken, a traveller will be forwarded in a bye-chaise, which starts at the same time, even if there be only one person to be conveyed in it. Smoking is not allowed, unless the passengers themselves permit it. The allowance of luggage is very small—indeed, too small; usually only 30 lbs. may be taken free of expense, and 201bs. more by paying for it. The regula¬ tions respecting over-weight (§ 38) are very strictly enforced at the Prussian post- offices. Every article is weighed before it is placed on the coach, and a heavy charge is made for extra weight. Large wooden boxes are generally rejected, and must be sent by the packwagen. The luggage must be conveyed to the office one hour before the coach starts, in order to be weighed and packed. Each package must bear the name and address of the owner. Great care is taken of the luggage the moment it has been consigned to the post-office, and the porters be¬ longing to the establishment will convey it to and from the owner’s lodgings at a charge fixed by government, and never exceeding 5 S. gr. (Gd.) Throughout the Prussian dominions, at every inn or post-house where the Schnellpost stops, a room, called Passagier Stubc, is provided for the reception of passengers, where they can obtain such refreshments as bread and butter (butter- brod), a sandwich, and a cup of coffee. A tariff fixing the prices of refreshment is hung up in the travellers’ room, and a control-book is kept for entering com¬ plaints should it be found ncccssaiy. 50. Inns. Travellers in Prussia arc protected by a regulation of the police from the impo¬ sitions of innkeepers, who are compelled to hang up in every apartment, or at least in the public room, a tariff , or list of charges for lodging, food, fuel, servants, valets-dc-place, &c. This is inspected periodically by a proper officer, who regu¬ lates the price of each article, and ascertains that none of the charges arc exor¬ bitant. The rule of hanging up the tariff is generally infringed on the Rhine, but the traveller may insist on seeing it if necessary. It is a good custom to order your bill to be sent in to you every day; it checks imposition and prevents mistakes. The usual charges arc—for a room on the first floor, 15-20 S. gr. to 1 thaler; 2nd or 3rd floor, 10-20 S. gr.; table d’hote, 15 S. gr. to 1 thaler; breakfast, coffee or tea, with bread and butter, 7-12 S. gr. (beefsteak or eggs, G S. gr.); tea, 8 S. gr.; valet-de-place, 15-20 S. gr., or 1 florin, per diem. 237 Rhenish Prussia, route 34. —arnhem to cologne. ^ (s-vaj C(tfeRrh& ; .j/f, h^iuu vZc/t y / _ (/ R ROUTES IN RHENISH PRUSSIA. ROUTE 34. the RHINE (b) : ARNHEM to cologne, BY" EMMERICH, WESEL, OBERIIAUSEN, DUISBURG, AND DUSSELDORF.—RAIL¬ WAY. * * * For general information respect¬ ing the Rhine below Cologne, read Rte. 11. A steamer leaves Arnhem every day at G a.m., and reaches Cologne at 11 f.m. As there is nothing to see in the lower part of the Rhine, it is best to proceed as far as Arnhem and Cologne by rail. Hallway. Trains 4 daily, in 4 h. Duiven Stat. Zcvenaar Stat. The Prussian terri¬ tory is entered before reaching Elten June. Stat. {Tan, not good) a village with an old abbey. Custom¬ house. Here the rly. to Cologne by Cloves and Crefeld (Rte. 35) diverges. The Rhine is crossed by a steam ferry. About 8 m. above Arnhem, and about the same distance above Nij¬ megen, the 2 branches of the Rhine— the Waal, and the Lower Rhine, or Lck—unite. Before entering the un¬ divided stream, it is worth while to give some little attention to the hydrau¬ lic works erected on the apex of the delta. They consist of dams, dykes, and jetties, constructed of earth, and faced with wicker-work, which are thrown up, along the shore or into the Rhine, to regulate its course and the direction of its waters, the object in view being so to distribute its current that in all states of its flood, both when high and when low, § of the water which it brings down may be conveyed into the "Waal, and only ^ into the Lek. It is the duty, therefore, of the water- engineers to watch every variation of the current and level of the Rhine, and to guard against changes, and preserve the equilibrium, by constantly throwing out new works. These constructions are of the highest importance, since, in point of fact, the physical existence of Holland in a great degree depends on them: and had not the necessary pre¬ cautions been taken to strengthen them in 1774, the country would, in all probability, have been overwhelmed by the inundations which occurred in 1784. At a place called Aart, a dam is drawn across an ancient arm of the Rhino, strengthened by the Dutch with thick plantations of willows. It is intended that this abandoned channel should serve as a safety-valve in case of very great increase in the waters of the Rhine; and by a convention with the Prussian government it is settled that, when the river attains a certain height at the gauge at Arnhem, it shall be allowed i an outlet through this dam. This is by no means an impossible contingency; and were it to happen, the dam would be washed away in 5 minutes after the water had begun to flow over it, and a new passage would be opened for the Rhine to the sea. The frontier of Holland and Prussia is marked by the situation of rt. Lobith, the station of the Dutch custom-house. The steamer, in descend¬ ing the river, brings-to here for an hour or more, and is boarded by the officers. Opposite Lobith stood Sclicnkenschanze, once a strong fortress, constructed by Martin Schenck of Nijdeck, 158G, and considered the key of the Netherlands, taken by Fred. Henry Prince of Orange 163G, and by Turenne 1672. It owed its importance to its position on the tongue of land formed by the forking of the Rhine, but the river has completely 238 ROUTE 34. —WES EL* DUISBURG. changed its bed in the course of centu¬ ries, and the separation of the Rhine and Waal now takes place considerably below the fortress, which has fallen to decay, and is now scarcely discernible. 1. The spires and towers of Cleves (Rte. 35) may be seen near this, at a little distance from the river. It takes 4 hrs. steam to reach rt. Emmericii Junction Stcit. Inn: II. do Holland, best. This is the first Prussian town; it is fortified, and has a garrison and 7550 Inliab., and considerable manufactures. It has a Dutch character of cleanliness. At its upper end rise the stunted Gothic tower of St. Aldegund’s Ch .; at the lower appears the Minster , the oldest ch. on the rt. bank of the Rhine ; choir and crypt Romanesque of 11th cent. The custom-house ofiiccrs here make a slight inspection of the baggage of a traveller (§ .46, 47). Bail to Dusseldorf in 3 hrs. rt. Bees. (Inn: Krone.) A small town with high walls. 1. Xanten, distinguished by its double- spired church (see Rte. 35), lies at a short distance from the Rhine, which appears to have flowed close to it in former times. The ancient bed is dis¬ tinctly traceable. rt. Wes el Stat. Inn: Dornbusch’s, best. This is a fortress of the first class, forming the bulwark of Prussia on her N.W. frontier; it lies at the junction of the Lippe with the Rhine, and has 13,600 Inhab. including the garrison. A bridge connects the island Biiderich with Fort Bliichcr , the tete- du-pont of Wesel, on the 1. bank. The Gothic Bathhaus (date 1396) is a handsome building: its front orna¬ mented with modern statues. The town carries on a considerable trade with Holland, and its commerce has increased since the Lippe was made navigable. Much wood and salt are transported out of Westphalia by that river. The Rhine is here divided into 2 branches by the island of Biiderich, also fortified by block-houses, and is crossed by a bridge of boats. A monument has been erected on the parade near the Stat. to the Prussian Sect. IV. ofiiccrs engaged in Schill's revolt at Stralsund, who were mercilessly shot here by the French, 1809. In the Ch. porch of St. Willebrod was born (1555) Peregrine Bertie Ld. Willoughby d’Eresby; his father and mother, flying from the Marian persecution, were re¬ fused lodgings by the inhabitants of Wesel as vagabonds of evil repute. The register and an inscription in the choir record the event. Wesel never¬ theless served as an asylum to many English Protestants, its inhabitants having early adopted the principles of the Reformation. Rapin here wrote his History of England, and died here. 1. Immediately opposite Wesel lies Fort Bdicker, formerly called Fort Na¬ poleon, while it belonged to the French. A small town was swept away to make room for it, and has since been rebuilt about 3 m. off. Dinslaken Stat. The Illy, turns away from the Rhine. Oberhausen June.Stat. (Buffet.) Rlys. diverge hence to Hanover, Berlin, Leipsig, and all parts of N. Germany; also a short branch Rly. runs to rt. Ruhrort (Hacks Inn, Clever Hof), at the opening of the Ruhr into the Rhine, the depot for the coals brought down the Ruhr from the coalfield on its banks. Nearly 3,000,000 tons are exported annually, chiefly to Holland. There are very large boat-builders’ yards here. Near the lower (E.) end of the town is a considerable Castle. Travellers bound for Cologne or Berlin will gain time by quitting the steamer here, or at Duisburg, and taking the railway. By means of Armstrong’s hydraulic crane, Rly. carriages arc lifted into and out of a steam-ferry crossing the Rhine to 1. Ilomberg. Terminus of the Rail¬ way from the Rhine to Aix-la-Chapelle. (Rte. 36 a.) rt. Duisburg Stat. Inns : Post; Rheinischer Hof. (Drusiburgum of the Romans.) A manufacturing town of 14,000 Inhab., near the Ruhr,which falls into the Rhine 3 m. below the town. St. Salvator?s (1415), 1 \ m. distant from the Rhine, is a fine ch. The University, Rhenish Prussia. ROUTE 34. —dusseldokf. artists. founded here 1655, was suppressed 1802. The Minden and Cologne Railway con¬ nects this town with Cologne; trains take 2 hrs. (Rte. 66.) The Valley of the Ruhr is distinguished not only for its active industry, its coal mines, &c., but also for its very pictu¬ resque scenery. It deserves exploring; the most interesting points being IIo- lien Siegburg, Blankenstein, Worden, Kettwig, and Miihlheim. 1. Uerdingen, marked by the poplars round it. At Eichelskamp, near this, the French revolutionary army under Lefebvre, 25,000 strong, first crossed the Rhine, 1795, and, by violating the neu¬ trality of the Prussian territory turned the position of the Austrians. rt. Calcum Stat. [1^ m. from this is rt. Kaiserswerth, originally, as its name implies, an island, long the residence of the German Emperors. Pepin d’Heristal built here a castle, now in ruins ; from which the Emperor Henry IY., when a child 12 years of age, was secretly carried off from his mother Agnes, by Hanno Archbp. of Cologne. There still exist remains of a more recent Castle , built by the Emp. Frederick I. The Church (13th cent.) con¬ tains the curious silver shrine of St. Suibert, an English monk, who preached Christianity here in the 8th cent. Here is a remarkable charitable institution founded by the late Protestant pastor, Fliedner, consisting of a Hospital, Schools, a Penitentiary, all under the charge of Protestant deaconesses or nurses.] rt. DUsseldorf. (Stat.) Inns: In the town:—Breidenbacher Hof, very good; Hotel Domhardt; Drei Reichs- kronen (3 Imp. Crowns). Near the Rly. :—Europaischer Hof (good), and Prinz von Preussen. Post-office, a hand¬ some Florentine building, near the Stat. Dlisseldorf, capital of the duchy of Berg, is situated on the rt. hank of the Rhine, here about 1200 ft. broad, and traversed by a bridge of boats, at the junction of the small river Diissel, which gives its name to the town. It has 50,000 Inhab., and was a fortified town down to the peace of Luneville ; but at present is surrounded by gardens and pleasant walks in the place of ram- 239 parts. It is the seat of the Provincial Estates, or Parliament of the Rhenish 1 lovinces. It is divided into 3 quar¬ ters—the Altstadt, with narrow and dirty streets ; the Karlstadt, and the Neustadt, which are the finest quarters. Dlisseldorf, though a neat town, con¬ tains nothing remarkable at present except its school of living artists, who occupy the Palace near the Rhine, built by the Elector John William, whose bronze statue stands in the mar¬ ket-place on horseback. The main edi¬ fice, with many other buildings, was destroyed by the bombardment of the French, 1794, save one wing, and has only recently been rebuilt. It con¬ tained, down to 1805, the famous col¬ lection of pictures now at Munich. One large painting of inferior excel¬ lence, the Ascension of the Virgin, by Rubens , was left behind. The old pictures which now fill the gallery are not good for much. Tasso and the 2 Leonoras by Carl Sohn is a charming modem work. There is a very remarkable Collection of 1400 Drawings by the old masters, including several by Raphael , A. Man¬ tegna , Giulio Romano (designs for the Palazzo del T.), Domenichino , M. Angelo , Titian , &c. Also 300 drawings in water¬ colours, copies of the finest works of Italian painters of all schools from the 4th cent, by Ramboux. Below the gal¬ lery is the public Library. The Diisseldorf school of painting , which, curiously enough, has had its rise since the removal of the picture gallery, was founded in 1828, under the direction of Cornelius (a native of the town), in whose studio many clever artists have formed themselves. In the historical branch of art it is particularly strong. Every summer, usually in July and August, there is an exhibition of paintings here by native and living artists, which continues open till the month of September, after which the pictures are dispersed. The studios of the artists in a wing of the Palace are shown from 12 to 2. The Ch. of St. Andrew ( Hofhirche) contains some pictures by Diisseldorf artists : in it and the Ch. of St. Lambert are several monuments of former princes. 240 ROUTE 04.—DU3SELDOEF. JIUIILHEIM. * In the cli. of the Jesuits is a good spe¬ cimen of Reger's painting. It is over the altar in the S. aisle, and represents the Virgin standing on clouds, support¬ ing the infant Saviour. The *Hofgartcn is one of the finest public gardens in Germany, much va¬ ried in surface, having groves and water, and commanding a good view of the Rhine; it is a very agreeable promenade. There is a Theatre here, and music is very much cultivated. Diisseldorf derives its chief import¬ ance and prosperity from its situation on the Rhine ; it serves as a port for the merchandise sent from the indus¬ trious manufacturing districts of the Duchy of Ecrg. Cottons and cloths are brought down hither from Elber- feld, iron-ware from Solilingcn, and limestone from Ratingen, to be shipped and exported. English Ch. Service on Sunday at the German Protestant Ch., 18, Berger- Strassc, at 10^ a.m. Pempclfort , in the vicinity of the town on the E., was the residence of the philosopher Frederick Jacobi, and the resort of Gotlic, Wieland, Herder, Stolbcrg, and a host of distinguished literary men of the last cent. The mansion of Count Spec, at JTelldorf, about 12 m. from Diisseldorf, near the Calcum stat., on the railroad to Duisburg, contains Frescoes by modern German artists of great excel¬ lence : — 1. The interview of Pope Alexander III. and the Emperor, in St. Mark’s, Venice, by Cornelius; 2. Hen¬ ry the Lion, the head of the Guelphic party, submitting to the Emp. Bar¬ barossa ; 3. The Humiliation of the Milanese to Barbarossa—both by Mucke; and, 4. Barbarossa seizing with his own hand the Saracen standard, by I Lessing ; two other designs by Miieke | and Lessing. D/lsselthal, 3 m. from Diisseldorf, is a sequestrated Abbey, converted into an asylum for destitute children by the benevolent exertions of Count von dcr Reeke, who with his family resides on the spot and devotes his time and attention to the institution. About 140 children of both sexes receive a plain, useful education, and arc taught some Sect. IV trade by which they may maintain themselves respectably. Railroads —from Diisseldorf to Co¬ logne; trains in 1J h. (Rte. GG)—to Aix-la-Chapelle, by Ncuss (Rte. 36 a)— to Elberfeld, Minden, Hanover, Mag¬ deburg, and Berlin (in 9 h.) (Rte. G7). The Steamer takes 5 h. in ascend¬ ing, 2^ in descending the Rhine between Diisseldorf and Cologne. The Rhine winds so much as to render the distance by water about one-fourth greater than that by land. By rly. to Cologne takes 1J hr. 1. Soon after quitting Diisseldorf the steeple of Neuss (Rte. 35) is visible. Drusus is said to have thrown a bridge over the Rhine here : at present there is a flying bridge at Iletdorf. rt. Benrath Stat., a handsome cha¬ teau, built by the Electors of Cleves and Berg, and inhabited by Murat while grand duke, is seen at a distance. 1. Zons, a town of many towers. The river Wuppcr is crossed. rt. Miihlheim Stat.,aflourishingtown. Close to it is Stammheim, the seat of Count Fiirstcnberg, with its modern Gothic chapel near the Rhine. 1. Cologne Stat ion . (Rte. 3 G). In descending the Rhine from Cologne to Rotterdam, a steamer reaches Arn¬ hem in 12 lirs., and Rotterdam in 17 hrs. Rhenish Piussia, hie* 55.-—-nijmegen to cologne, cleves. 241 ROUTE 35. NIJMEGEN OR'ARNHEM TO COLOGNE, BY CLEVES, AND GELDERN OR XANTEN. Emmerich to Cologne ; rail up the 1. bank of the Rhine, 73 Eng. m. 4 trains daily, in 4 to 6 hrs. [N ijmegen to Cleves by post-road; diligence in 2 h hrs. About G m. from Nijmegen the Dutch frontier is passed, and the Prussian custom-house (§ 43) is reached at If Kranenburg. Before entering Cleves the road passes through the beautiful park called the Tliiergarten.] Arnhem. See Rte. 5. Duiven Stat. Zevenaar June. Stat. Dutch frontier. Here the line to Cleves diverges from that to Dtisseldorf, and passengers cross the Rhine by a steam-ferry. If Cleves Stat. (Germ. Kleve). Inns: Maiwald, S. of the town; * Rob¬ bers, N.; Konig von Preussen. Cleves is about m. from the Rhine, but is connected with it by a canal; it has 8687 Inhab., and is capital of the duchy of Cleves, an ancient possession of the house of Prussia. It is built upon 3 gentle hills, and perhaps re¬ ceived its name from the Latin word climm , a slope. The country around is charming from its beauty and fer¬ tility, and the pleasing variety of hills and valleys clothed with wood and verdure. In the centre of the town rises the old castle called the Schwanen- burg, formerly the residence of the Dukes of Cleves, in which the ill-fated Anne was born, whom Henry VIII. termed a “ Flanders mare,” now con¬ verted into public offices. The oldest part of it is a massive and pictu¬ resque Tower , 180 ft. high, built 1439, on the top of a rock, and overlooking the country far and wide. There is a very extensive view from it. It de¬ rives its name of “ the Swan’s Tower” from a traditional story of a strange knight who appeared to a Duchess of Cleves in a vessel drawn by a swan; she fell in love with him, and married him, but after 10 years the swan re¬ turned and bore him away from his [N. G.] wife, who never saw him more. The tale forms the subject of one of Mr. Southey’s poems. The Ch. (1345) con¬ tains several monuments of the Counts of Cleves—effigies of Adolph I. of Guel- dres and wife ; engraved brasses of John I. (1481) and II. The Prinzenhof is a handsome building, erected by John Maurice Prince of Nassau-Siegen, 1663, now occupied by the Count von der Lippe : and at Berg und Thai, 2 m. off, on the road to Xanten, within a grove of trees, is the prince’s iron tomb. The Thiergarten is an agreeable pleasure- ground, containing a mineral spring, and commanding a fine view. There is a fine panoramic view from Clevesberg, which is near the Hotel zum Thier¬ garten, and only a pleasant walk from the Hotel Prinz Mauritz. Cleves is about 4J m.from Emmerich. Eilwagen daily to Nijmegen in 3 h. If Goch Stat. If Kevelaer Stat. If Geldern Stat. Inn: Schwarzer Adler, 4668 Inhab. Kempen Stat., once a fortress, besieged times out of mind, and levelled with the dust 1703, by Prussian cannon. A fine Pfarrliirche of 13th and 14th cents. It is thought by some to be Thomas a Kempis’ birthplace. 1 Aldekerk Stat. 2j Crefeld June. Stat. (Tans: Ober- heims; Goldner Anker), a flourishing town of 52,000 Inhab. (13,000 Protes¬ tants), with straight spacious streets and handsome houses, which, by their neat¬ ness, give to this place all the appearance of a Dutch town. It owes its pros¬ perity to the manufactures of silk and velvet, which employ 6000 per¬ sons. Part of the silk goods intro¬ duced into England as French arc in fact manufactured here, and are equal in quality to the French. The annual produce of the looms amounts to 1^ million sterling. Railways to Aix-la-Ohapelle and to Oberhausen and Hanover. Osterath Stat. 2^ Neuss June. Stat. Inns: Drci Konige ; Itheinischer Hof. It is sup¬ posed tobetlicNovesiumof the Romans, M 242 ROUTE 35. —CALCAR. X AN TEN. mentioned by Tacitus, and built by Drusus, -who threw a bridge oyer the Rhine here. The Cologne gate, still called the Drusus Thor , is Itoman in the lower part, the upper being of the 14th cent. : some cannon-balls from the siege of Charles the Bold, who besieged the town in vain 48 weeks in 1474, have been built into it. The town is men¬ tioned by Tacitus; in his time it lay close to the Rhine, which at present Hows li m. from it. It has 7000 Inhab. The Ch. of St. Quintals, a splendid edifice, appears, from an inscription in the wall on the S. side of the interior, to have been built in 1208. It, espe¬ cially the highly ornamented W. end and tower, is one of the most remark¬ able specimens of the transition from the round to the pointed style. Inside, although most of the side arches are pointed, the vaulting of the nave is round. Observe the oblong cupola, and the peculiar form of the windows in the nave, aisles, transepts, and cupola. The cupola is ornamented with some early paintings by Cornelius , in chiaro oscuro. Neuss is a station on the Ely. from Aix to Dusseldorf (Rte. 36 a). Leaving Neuss, the Railroad tra¬ verses the abandoned bed of the Rhine. 2 Horrem-Dormagen Stat. AVorringen Stat. (Roman Burancum). 2f Cologne Stat., in Rte. 36. [The antiquarian or architect may he disposed to diverge from the rly. 1. to visit If Calcar. In the Gothic Ch. (14th cent.) are several elaborate altar- pieces, choir-stalls, &c., of carved oak, representing Scripture subjects and le¬ gends, of good execution, the produc¬ tions of a school of art 'which floui’ished here in the 15th cent., when Calcar was scat of a great cloth-trade. Some of these are the works of a family of carvers named Boegel, who seem to have furnished other Rhenish cities with similar carved screens, &c. Here is an altarpiece, the best painting of the artist Johan van Calcar. There is also a stately Town-hall. Frederick the Great’s general of cavalry v. Seydlitz Sect. IV. was born here. There is a monument to him in the Market-place. 2 Xanten (Inn, Niedcr-Rheinisclier Ilof), a town of 3600 Inhab., the Castra Vetera of the Romans. The Praetorian camp of Varus, from which he led the Roman legions across the Rhine, was on the neighbouring hill called Fiirstenbcrg. According to one version of the legend, the Emp. Max¬ imum, about 290 a.d., caused St. Ge- reon and the Theban legion, amounting to 6000 men, to be executed here be¬ cause they had become Christians. The scene of this legend is also placed at Agaunum, now St. Maurice, in Switzerland ; hut of course this version is not received at Cologne, where the traveller may see the bones of the legion in St. Gere on’s Church. The Ch. of St. Victor, surmounted by twin spires, is a beautiful structure of trass (or tuff), in the pointed style (elate 1383), except the AV. front, pro¬ bably built 1128. The whole was re¬ stored 1486-1522. The roodloft dates from 1400. Over the high altar is the antique silver shrine (enamelled) of St. Victor. The Altar of the Virgin is of carved oak, like those at Calcar. The altarpiece is the best work of Barth, de Bruyn, a Cologne painter, 1534. On the S. side of St. Victor is the Chapel of St. Michael, the oldest building in Xanten. In the churchyard an obelisk erected by Napoleon, 1811, marks the grave of the learned antiquary Corn, dc Paw. The country around affords abundant traces of its ancient masters, in the variety of Roman antiquities every day brought to light. At Xanten stood the castle of the Niebelungen, the heroes of the old German epic, and here Siegfried, the slayer of the dragon, was born, accord¬ ing to it. Beyond Xanten the road is heavy sand and gravel. Xanten is about 15 m. distant from Geldern Stat.J Rhenish Prussia, route 3G. AIX-LA-CHAPELLE TO COLOGNE. 243 ROUTE 3G. AIX-LA-CHAPELLE TO COLOGNE.— RAILROAD. 9] Prussian m.=43| Eng. in. Aix-la-Chapelle (Germ. Aachen). Inns: Grand Monarque, close to the new Bath-house; tables-d’liotc at 1 and 5;—Nuellen’s Hotel, in a good situation, close to the Fountain. These arc both excellent houses, managed by Drcmel. II. d’Empereur;—Dubigk’s Grand Hotel, good and moderate, close to the Baths ;—Bellevue, good and well situated. 2nd Class .—Konig von Spanien; II. Royal; both conveniently near to the rly. Cab, vigilante , from Stat. into town, with luggage, 5 s. gr. Aix-la-Chapelle, a town of 60,000 Inhab. (2500 Protestants), was known to the Romans under the name of Aquis Granum. The warm springs induced that bath-loving people to settle on the spot, and remains of their baths are constantly found in digging. It is to Charlemagne, however, who was horn here, that the city owes its eminence, lie died here, 814. He raised it to the rank of second city in his empire, and made it capital of his dominions N. of the Alps, appointing it the place of coronation for the kings of Germany and of the Romans, his successors, 37 of whom were crowned here between 814 and 1531. In the middle ages it flourished with the privileges of a Free Imperial City, and attained great eminence in its ma¬ nufactures, especially in that of cloth, for which it is celebrated even to the present day. It was the scene of many Diets of the Empire, and of several councils of the Church ; and in later times it has been distinguished by the Congresses held here :—1. In 1668, when a treaty of peace was concluded between France and Spain ;—2. In 1748, when a gene¬ ral peace was signed by the sovereigns of Europe; and—3. In 1818, at which the Emperors of Austria and Russia, and King of Prussia, were present in person, and Ambassadors were sent from George IV. and Louis XVIII., to decide on the evacuation of France by the Allied armies. After the Peace of Paris in 1815, Aix was separated from France, to which it had been united by Napoleon, and added to the dominions of the King of Prussia. The handsome streets and fine buildings erected since that event, as well as the increase of population, show a return to its ancient prosperity. In¬ deed it has rapidly risen into import¬ ance as a manufacturing town. The huge chimneys starting up on all sides, and the clouds of smoke, are evidence of this. Since the days of the Romans and Charlemagne it has been celebrated as a watering-place, and is annually frequented by many thousand visitors. The Hotel de Ville (Rathhaus), in the market-place, is a large and. somewhat imposing building, erected 1353, on the site of the Palace of the Frankish Kings, in which Charlemagne was born. The Tower of Granus , at the E. end, was built 1215. The semicircular tower on the W. side is the only part remaining of 9th cent. The Rathhaus has been splendidly restored, and a new stair¬ case added. It is remarkable as the place of meeting of the two Congresses of 1748 and 1818. In the grand saloon (Kaisersaal), on the 3rd floor, are some modern frescoes—scenes from the life of Charlemagne—by Bethel and Keliren. In the Chamber of Conferences are numerous portraits of Sovereigns: among them the oldest known of Char¬ lemagne ; Napoleon, Josephine, Maria Theresa. In the centre of the square is a foun¬ tain surmounted by the bronze statue of the Empr. Charlemagne , erected 1620. The Grasshaus in the Fischmarkt, once a prison, has a good front with statues of the 7 Electors, built 1257-72. The *Miinster or Dom is one of the M 2 244 ROUTE 06.—AIX-LA-CHARELLE. CATHEDRAL. Sect. IV. oldest, if not the oldest eh. in Ger¬ many. The nave , an octagon within, hut having externally 16 sides, with round arches, was erected by Charle¬ magne (796-804). It is “the chapel,” after which the city was named, lie designed it to he a burial-place for himself, causing it to he con¬ structed in the form of the Church of . the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem. It was consecrated by Pope Leo III., “ with a ceremony worthy of its splen¬ dour ; 365 archbishops and bishops were to he present at the solemnity, hut, unluckily, 2 were missing; and there is no knowing what might have re¬ sulted if 2 reverend prelates of Tongrcs, quietly reposing in their graves at Maes- tricht, had not been so kind as to walk out and supply the vacant seats at the ceremony. So says the tradition of the place.” The original church was in part destroyed by the Normans, and repaired by the Emp. Otho III. in 983 ; hut much of the original fabric still stands, of rude masonry, though partly encased, and modernised. The W. porch (the core of it), and the solid bronze doors, are also old. The brazen wolf and fir-cone, on either side of it, belonged to an old fountain. The position of the Tomb , in which once reposed the mortal remains of Charlemagne, is marked by a large slab of marble under the centre of the dome, inscribed with the words “ Ca¬ ro r.o Magno.” There is no crypt or vault underneath, so it is probable the Emperor’s body was placed in a sort of mortuary chapel, above ground. A mas¬ sive brazen chandelier (the candlesticks are modern) hangs above it, the gift of the Emp. Frederic Barbarossa. This tomb-house was opened in 1165, after the anti-Pope Paschal III. had made Charlemagne a saint. The body was found, not reclining in his coffin, as is the usual fashion of the dead, but seated in his throne as one alive, clothed in the imperial robes, bearing the sceptre in his hand, and on his knees a copy of the Gospels. On his fleshless brow was the crown, the imperial mantle covered his shoiflders, the sword Joyeuse was by his side, and the pilgrim’s pouch, which he had borne always while liv¬ ing, was still fastened to his girdle. All these venerable relics were removed, and used in the coronation ceremonies of succeeding Emperors of Germany. They are now deposited at Vienna. The throne , in which the body of Char¬ lemagne was seated, alone remains here: it is placed in the gallery (Iloch Munster) running round the octagon, facing the choir. It is an arm-chair, in shape somewhat like that of Edward the Confessor in 'Westminster Abbey, but made of slabs of white marble, which, during the coronation, were covered with plates of gold. It is pro¬ tected by wooden boards, which the sacristan will remove to satisfy a stranger’s curiosity. The arches of the triforium gallery are now once more adorned with some of the 32 pillars of marble and por¬ phyry brought by Charlemagne from the Exarch’s Palace at Ravenna, and partly from Rome. These were some¬ what wantonly removed by the French : a part of them only were returned from Paris, the rest have been re¬ placed by modern pillars given by the King of Prussia. In the side chapel of St. Nicholas stands an antique Sarco¬ phagus of Parian marble, the work of Roman or Greek artists, ornamented with a fine bas-relief of the Rape of Proserpine : the feet of the dead Charle¬ magne originally rested in it, within his tomb. The Choir of Charlemagne was pulled down to make way for the present one 1353. It was finished 1413, “is of prodigious height (114 ft.) and light¬ ness, having the appearance of a stu¬ pendous lantern all of glass.” Its windows, 85 ft. high, are filled with modern painted glass from designs by Cornelius—gifts of Fred. William IV. and others. It contains a pulpit, or arnbo, a gift of Emp. Henry II., covered with plates of silver gilt, ornamented with antique carvings in ivory, gems, and precious stones : this is con¬ cealed by a wooden case, which the sacristan will remove. The Emp. Otho III. was buried in front of the high altar. Full musical mass every Sun¬ day, at 10a.m. The * Treasury or Sacristy of the $ali*® 11 EhrenThor Stixun 34 Post Oft 35 Police 0 L*ytruUn» floating Bail in Cologne ami Mi mien Kailvrcty Station 1000 ./ ostles' Church , in the Neu- markt, was begun in 1020, and finished in 1035, It suffered from fire in 1098 and 1199, and was partly rebuilt in the beginning of the 13th cent. It has a double transept. To the earlier build¬ ing belong the choir, the eastern tran¬ sept and octagonal cupola, the 2 small towers, the lower part of the nave, and the great tower. The western transept and upper part of the nave are the parts rebuilt in the 13th cent. The vaulting of the nave, which had be¬ come ruinous, has been restored in wood, after the old pattern. This church has u 3 absides, or 3 circular cupolas, with slim octagonal steeples between them, rising undiminished to the top, from the transepts and the choir. Their common centre is crowned by an octagonal cupola, which, as well as the 3 absides, is belted, imme¬ diately under the cornice, by galleries of small arches, on small columns, 256 - ROUTE 36. —COLOGNE. ST. PETER. STA. MARIA. Sect. IV. coupled in the depth of the arch, rest¬ ing on a panelled balustrade, such as is displayed by all the other churches here and on the Rhine of the same period, and covered with a low ribbed roof of lead, so as to present a striking resem¬ blance to some of the oldest Greek churches in some of the remotest parts of Asia Minor; and at the same time in its proportions as airy and elegant, and calculated to magnify its apparent size, as the heavy, clumsy, English-Saxon roof often does the contrary.”— 1lope. The Church of St. Peter contains the famous altarpiecc of the Crucifixion of that Saint, with his head downwards, by Rubens, who was baptized in this church. The picture usually exposed to view is a copy made when the original was carried to Paris; hut for a fee of 15 S. gr. (for a party) the sacristan will turn the picture round, and display the original at the hack of the copy. On Sundays and festivals the original is turned outwards. “ It was painted a little time before Rubens’s death. The body and head of the Saint are the only good parts in this picture, which is finely coloured (broad light and shade), and well drawn ; hut the figure bends too suddenly from the thighs, which are ill drawn, or rather in a bad taste of drawing; as is likewise his arm, which has a short interrupted outline. The action of the malefactors (execu¬ tioners) has not that energy which he usually gave to his figures. Rubens, in his letters to Gildorp, expresses his own approbation of this picture, which he says was the best ho ever painted: he likewise expresses his content and happiness in the subject, as being pic¬ turesque ; this is likewise natural to such a mind as that of Rubens, who was, perhaps, too much looking about him for the picturesque or something uncommon. A man with his head downwards is certainly a more extra¬ ordinary object than in its natural place. Many parts of this picture are so feebly drawn, and with so tame a pencil, that I cannot help suspecting tliat Rubens died before he had com¬ pleted it, and that it was finished by some of his scholars .”—Sir J. Reynolds, “The composition is the best part of this picture : the bringing of the figures together is most original and skilful, and presents the difficulty of a bad sub¬ ject overcome. Still the painting, ex¬ cept in the left shoulder and breast of the Saint, is below the usual run of this great master ; though done indeed with great power, yet in the drawing of the figures the indication of anatomy is far from good.”— Wilkie. The 3 painted E. windows are fine, repre¬ senting—1. Christ bearing his Cross ; 2 . Crucifixion; 3. Descent from the Cross. They were executed 1528-1530. The brazen font in which Rubens was baptized still exists in this church. Maria do’ Medici died, 1642, in the house, No. 10, Sternengasse ; her re¬ mains, except the heart, were carried to F ranee. Rubens lived in this house until he was 10 years old. He was born 1577, at Sicgen (Rtc. 47). Santa Maria in Capitolio, so called from its occupying the site of the capitol of the Roman city, stands on a height surmounted by flights of steps. The Frankish kings had a palace here, to which, in 696, riectrndis, the wife of Pepin of Heristal, retired, having sepa¬ rated from her husband on account of his attachment to Alpais, the mother of Charles Martel. She, in 700, removed the capitol, and built a church and a nunnery on its site. It has been con¬ tended that the existing church is nearly entirely of that period. It is more pro¬ bable that the greater part at least was built about 1000. Observe the upper circuit of the choir, both inside and outside. Inside, the coupled columns, with their rich arabesque capitals, are in the style of the lltli or 12th cent, outside, the wall is crowned by a row of arches on small pillars. The transepts arc in an older and plainer style. The lower windows of the choir have been filled with tracery of the latest period of the pointed style. The pointed vaulting of the nave is appa¬ rently a restoration of the latter part of the 14th cent. “ Externally, in the same style with the Ch. of the Apostles ; internally resembling a Greek church still more, and, in fact, a counterpart Rhenish Prussia, route 36. —cologne, town-hall, museum. 257 of one existing among tlie ruins of Seleucia, since round its semicircular absides and east end run internally semicircular rows of columns support¬ ing round arches.”— Hope. The effigy of Plectrudis, a very early work (10th cent.), is let into the wall outside of the choir. The doors of the N. transept, carved with scriptural subjects in relief, executed at the end of the 12th cent, at the latest, are very curious (compare the doors at Ilildesheim). The walls of the Harderirath chapel are covered with paintings by an old German master (1466); and the windows have some good stained glass. That of the Schwarz family, with groined vaulting, contains the brass Font (1594), surmounted by a figure of St. Martin on horseback. The walls of the crypt, once a salt depot, are covered with ancient paint¬ ings nearly effaced. The tower was built after 1637, when the old one fell. The convent has disappeared. A clois¬ ter of the 10th cent, remains and has been restored. The House of the Templars , in the Rheingasse, No. 8, supposed to bo of the 12th or 13th cent., was repaired, 1840, and now serves as the Exchange and Chamber of Commerce. The Ca¬ sino is a handsome building, near the theatre, provided with ball and reading rooms, where newspapers are taken in. The Regierungs Gehdude is also a hand¬ some edifice. In the ancient Kaufhaus or Giirzc- nich (so called from the person who gave the ground on which it stands), finished in 1474, restored 1857-59, several Diets of the Empire were held, and many German Emperors enter¬ tained at the hospitable board of the patrician magistrates, in the huge hall which occupies the 1 st floor: here the car¬ nival balls are given, and the Art-Union exhibition takes place in July. It has two remarkably fine Gothic fireplaces. The Rathhaus (Town-hall), fronting the Alton Markt and Stadthaus-platz, was erected at different periods; the Gothic tower, containing the Archives, in 1414; the very pleasing marble porch of 2 stories, in style of the Renaissance, in 1571; the ground-floor dates from the 13th cent. In the Gothic Hansa Saal were held the meetings of that mercantile confederation which at one time carried on the commerce of the world. Gross St. Martin , on the Rhine, was dedicated 1172, but its lofty tower, rest¬ ing on arches nearly 100 feet high, was not added until the beginning of the 16th cent. Its site, originally an island in the Rhine, was occupied by an earlier church, which, in 980, Bishop Warm gave to the Scotch Benedictines. The interior w r as modernised in 1790. In the church is an octagonal font of white marble, a Roman work of 13th ccnty., gift of Pope Leo III., and having ap¬ parently been a labrum of a bath. In the Church of the Minorites , whose pointed Gothic choir, 13th centy., nearly cotemporary with that of the Dom, has been restored along with the W. front, is the tomb of John Duns Scotus , philo¬ sopher and divine (died 1309). The late Pointed cloister is included in the adjoining Museum. The Museum is a Gothic edifice near the Ch. of the Minorites, erected at the cost of a private citizen (Wallraff Ricliartz), 1855-59 (admittance fee 7^ S. gr. each person ; on Sundays, Wed¬ nesdays, and holidays it is open free from 10 to 12±). The staircase is painted by Steinle. It is chiefly occu¬ pied with works of art bequeathed by Prof. Wallraff to his native city, consisting of early specimens of the School of Cologne.* Among the more remarkable are—the Last Judgment, by Master Stephan Lothenar, painter of the Dombild (1410), (the angels are painted of the brightest ultra-marine by this master and others of the same school) ; the Death of the Virgin, by Schoreel; and a Descent from the Cross, by Israel von Mcchenen (1488) ; also a Virgin and Child, and several others, by Master William of Cologne (1380). A fine Memling, * See Kugler’s Handbook of Tainting, $ xi. 258 ROUTE 3G. —COLOGNE. EAU DE COLOGNE. Sect. IV. These pictures deserve attention as monuments of a school whose very existence was almost unknown till the present cent. We are now aware that, nearly simultaneously with the revival of painting in Italy, thei'e sprang up a race of artists on the hanks of the Bhine, and in the Netherlands, who succeeded in raising art from the de¬ gradation into which it had fallen in the hands of the Byzantine painters, to a comparative state of excellence ; and maintained that peculiar style which is seen in the greatest perfection in the works of Van Eyck, Memling, and Schoreel. One wing is devoted to pictures by modern artists. Observe the Captive Jews at Babylon, by Bendemann , “no less remarkable for the simple beauty of the composition, than for the depth and earnestness of feeling it expresses the Convent Court, in a snow-storm, by Lessing , is also good. In the lower story are rooms con¬ taining old armour, furniture, painted glass, pottery, &c.; also many Boman antiquities, some of which were found in or near Cologne ; besides these arc several busts and statues, and one specimen of sculpture, distinguished as a work of Grecian art, of great beauty and value—it is the Head of Medusa , resembling the famous “Medusa Bon- dinini,” in the Glyptothek at Munich, but larger, and it is said to be even finer. Those who take interest in Art will find many private collections of pictures here ; the most interesting being those of Messrs. Merlo (Untcr Fettenhcnnen), Weyer (Perlengraben), Essingh (Neu- markt), Engels (Glockengasse), &c. ; they are, for the most part, limited to works of the Old German masters. St. Pantaleon , S. side of the city, near the gate named St. Pantaloon’s, is in part the oldest Christian structure in Cologne, since the lower part of the great tower, and the walls connected with it, are probably not later than 980. It was built by Archbishop Bruno, with the materials of the Boman bridge and Castle of Deutz. The greater part of the present ch. is oftheyear 1622. It is used as the garrison ch. Against the piers hang lists of soldiers who fell in the war of 1813-15. Eau de Cologne , so renowned all over the world, is an article of considerable commerce for the city. There are 24 manufacturers, and several who bear the same name; but the original Jean Marie Farina, the rightful heir of the inventor (1670-1680), the best fabri¬ cator of Eau de Cologne, is to be found opposite the Jiilichs Platz. Za- noli, Ilochstrasse, also may be recom¬ mended. Another kind, invented by the nun Mary Clementina Martin, was honoured with a prize in the Great Ex¬ hibition, and may be had opposite the Dom. A box (6 bottles) costs 2 th. 10 S. gr. The value of this manufac¬ ture cannot fail to be appreciated on the spot. One of the peculiarities of Co¬ logne, its filthiness, will not long escape the attention, or the nose, of the stranger; it occasioned the following verses of Coleridge :— Ye nymphs, who reign o’er sewers and sinks, The river Rhine, it is well known, Doth wash your city of Cologne:— But tell me, nymphs, what power divine Shall henceforth wash the river Rhine? Dumont - Schaubourg, Ilochstrasse 133, has a good store of guide-books, &c.; so lias C. Eisen, book and print- seller, 2, Friedrich-Wilhclm Street. Physicians. Dr. Edw. Metz, 55, Iloch¬ strasse, and Dr. Sticker : both speak English. On the rt. bank of the Bhine, oppo¬ site Cologne, stands Deutz (Inns: Hotel Bellevue, sur¬ passes in excellence all its rivals on the 1. bank). It is connected by the iron bridge and bridge of boats with Cologne, and strongly fortified as a tete de pont: it is a favourite place of resort in summer evenings. The gardens at the river side afford the amusements of music, dancing, and beer-drinking to the citizens. An old Benedictine abbey has been converted into an artillery depot, and there is also a great cavalry barrack. Deutz is said to owe its rise to a castle built here by Constantine the Great, Rhenish Prussia. 259 ROUTE 36. —ABBEY OF ALTENBERG. From the extremity of the Bridges , the finest view of Cologne and its ranges of buildings, extending for 3 m. along the opposite bank, is obtained. The tubular Suspension Bridge (see above) rests on piers sunk in the bed of the river, so strong as to resist the floods and ice of winter. The boat-bridge requires to be opened to let vessels pass, by which passengers and carriages are often delayed 15 or 20 minutes: it is removed in winter. The Minden and Berlin Big. Terminus is in Deutz, but express trains start from the Central Stat. at Cologne. £An exceedingly interesting excursion may be made from Cologne to the Cis¬ tercian Ahbeg of Altenberg , 14 m. dis¬ tant, 2 ^ hours’ drive, off the post-road to Lennep. The Abbey lies about a mile from the post-house at Strasserhof, to the S. of the road, in the midst of beech forests, buried in the pretty re¬ tired valley of the Dhiin, and close to the rushing stream. There is no car¬ riage road to it, but a pathway turns off from the road, a little short of Stras¬ serhof, through a glen. The distance is a very long mile, and parts of the way are ankle deep in very wet weather. The church is a most beautiful specimen of Gothic, the choir finished in 1265, the rest in 1379; it is 84 ft. high, and of graceful proportions. The windows contain some beautiful painted glass ; and remains of frescoes may be traced on its walls. The high altar, richly ornamented with carvings, the pulpit, and numerous curious monuments of abbots and monks, knights and noble ladies, are in a tolerably perfect state. Among them are several of the Counts of Altena, and the Counts and Dukes of Berg, an ancient family allied to the reigning house of Brandenburg. It has been supposed that this church was designed by tl e architect of Cologne cathedral; but the simplicity and so¬ lidity of the columns seem to indicate an artist of an earlier style. Observe the free and natural foliage of the capi¬ tals ; it is well executed, and with great taste. The choir windows are narrow, and tall out of all proportion; hidden on the outside by the projecting but¬ tresses, and rather poor when seen within. The conventual buildings, from which the monks were turned out only about 1799, were built about 1214*: they were converted into a manu¬ factory of Prussian blue, and were destroyed in 1815 by a fire which be¬ gan in them, and reduced part of the church to a state of impending ruin. In 1836 the Crown Prince of Prussia undertook its restoration. This ex¬ quisite relic of Gothic architecture has thus been saved,though at a great cost, from the destruction which was imminent. A dinner, with trout from the Dhiin, may be had at Schmitz’s Inn at Engclrath near Strasserhof.] Railroads —to Aix-la-Chapelle (Rte. 36) (express train to Paris by Charle¬ roi and St. Quentin in 11 hrs.);—to May- ence, by Bonn, Coblenz, and Bingen, in \\ to 5| hrs. (Rte. 37);—to Crefeld and Cleves (Rte. 35) ; — and the express trains to Minden and Berlin,—all start from the Central Bahnhof , near the Ca¬ thedral. Ordinary trains to Minden and Berlin;—to Diisseldorf and Arnhem ;— to Siegburg and Giessen (Rte. 45 a) ; Terminus in Deutz. Steamers several times a-day, up the Rhine to Coblenz (Rte. 37), and down to Nijmegen and Arnhem (Rte. 34), and thence to Rotterdam (Rte. 12) ; to Muhlheim many times a day. Schnellposts (§ 50) ; to Priim and Treves. 260 E. 36A. —AIX-LA-CIIAPELLE TO DUSSELDORF. Sect. IV. ROUTE 36 a. AIX-LA-CIIAPELLE TO MINDEN, HAN¬ OVER, AND BERLIN, BY RUIIRORT OR DUSSELDORF. Aix-la-Chapelle to Dusseldorf, by Gladbach andNcuss. Hail. 11^ Germ, m. 4 trains daily, in 2^ to 3 hrs. Travellers bound to Hanover, Berlin, or N. Germany, from England or Bel¬ gium, should proceed direct from Aix to liulirort by this railway. They will save time and expense by taking places from Ostend only to Aix-la-Chapelle, instead of going round by Cologne. They should take care, on arriving at Calais or Ostend, to have their luggage booked for Aix, and not for Cologne. This rly. has 2 Stats., one near the Marschier-Thor (near the Bhenish Ely.); the other near the Pont-Thor. It breaks through the old walls of Aix, near a lofty watch-tower, and skirts the Lousberg, and soon leaves (on 1.) the line to Maestricht (Iite. 27), through a rich coal-field. IT Kohlscheid Stat. 1'8 Herzogenrath Stat. (French Bol¬ duc), a small town, with an old Castle. See 1. former Abbey Klosterrath, now a boys’ school. 3‘3 Geilenkirchcn Stat. 4-2 Lindern Stat. The rly. crosses the river Boer. 5’2 Baal Stat. 5‘9 Erkelenz Stat. has a picturesque Castle in ruins, and a fine ch., 14th cent. [About 8 m. up the valley rt. lies Juliers (Germ. Jiilich). Inn: DrciKonigen— civil people, and clean beds. A melan¬ choly-looking fortress, with 3000 Inliab., in the midst of a plain, surrounded by marshes and stagnant ditches, which render it very unhealthy. The sur¬ rounding district, however, is so fertile that it has received the name of the Granary (Ivornkammer) of the Bhinc- land.] 7T "Wickrath Stat. 7‘6 Blieydt Stat. (Ixruscman’s Inn). 8 T Gladbach Junction Stat., close to a gigantic Gothic cotton-mill (Hcrfs Inn). The Minster dates from the 12th cent., except the crypt of the 10th, and the choir, pure Gothic, of 1275. Cotton- spinning was established here 1807, while England was shut out from the Continent, and flourishes greatly. [1. A branch railway diverges to Cre- feld , and to the Bhinc by Uerclingen and Ilomberg, opposite Buhrort, whither a steamer plies across the river (Bte. 34). From Buhrort runs a short branch railway to Oborhausen June. Stat., on the Cologne, Hanover, and Berlin Bly. (Bte. 65).] 9T Kleinenbroich Stat. G m. E. of Bheydt, rt., stands the Scliloss Dyck, residence of the family of Salm-Dyck, which once bore the title Altgraf; the principality was mediatised 1812. The Castle is modernised, and offers little for observation, but the gardens are famous for a curious and rare collection of cactuses. 10‘4 Neuss June. Stat. (Bte. 35). The Bhinc is crossed by a flying bridge. 11'3 Diisscldorf Stat. (Bte. 34.) Phen. Prussia. route 37.— the iuiine (c). 261 THE RHINE (c). FROM COLOGNE TO COBLENZ. rt. denotes tlie right, 1. tlie left bank of tlie Rhine, according as they would lie on the right or left of a person looking down the stream. exulting and abounding river! Making thy waves a blessing as they flow I lirough banks whose beauty would endure for ever. Could man but leave thy bright creation so, Nor its fair promise from the surface mow With the sharp scythe of conflict,—then to see Thv valley of sweet waters, were to know Earth pav’d like Heaven ; and to seem such to me, Even now what wants thy stream?—that it should Lethe be. The Rhine. “ On the banks of the majestic Rhine, There Harold gazes on a work divine, A blending of all beauties; streams and dells, Fruit, foliage, crag, wood, cornfield, moun¬ tain, vine, And chielless castles breathing stem fare¬ wells From grey but leafy walls, where Ruin greenly dwells. “ And there they stand, as stands a lofty mind, Worn, but unstooping to the baser crowd, All tenantless, save to the crannying wind, Or holding dark communion with the cloud. There was a day when they were young and proud, Fanners on high, and battles pass’d below; Rut they who fought are in a bloody shroud, And those which wav’d are sliredless dust ere now, And the bleak battlements shall bear no fu¬ ture blow. “ A thousand battles have assail’d thy banks, Rut these and half their fame have pass’d away, And Slaughter heap’d on high his weltering ranks; Their very graves are gone, and what are they ? Thy tide wash'd down the blood of yester¬ day, And all was stainless, and on thy clear stream Glanc’d with its dancing light the sunny ray ; But o’er the blacken'd memory’s blighting dream Thy waves would vainly roll, all sweeping as they seem. “ Adieu to thee, fair Rhine I How long de¬ lighted The stranger fain would linger on his way ! Thine is a scene alike where souls united Or lonely contemplation thus might stray ; And could the ceaseless vultures cease to prey On self-condemning bosoms, it were here, Where Nature, nor too sombre nor too gay, Wild but not rude, awful yet not austere, Is to the mellow earth as Autumn to the year. “ Beneath these battlements, within those w r alls, Power dwelt amidst her passions ; in proud state Each robber chief upheld his armed halls, Doing his evil will, nor less elate Than mightier heroes of a longer date. What want these outlaws conquerors should have Rut History’s purchas’d page to call them great, A wider space and ornamented grave ? Their hopes were not less warm, their souls were full as brave. “ In their baronial feuds and single fields, What deeds of prowess unrecorded died ! And Love, which lent a blazon to their shields, With emblems well devis'd by amorous pride, Through all the mail of iron hearts would glide ; But still their flame was fierceness, and drew on Keen contest and destruction near allied, And many a tower for some fair mischief won Saw the discolour’d Rhine beneath its ruin run. “ Adieu to thee again I a vain adieu ! There can be no farew ell to scene like thine: The mind is colour’d by thy every line ; And if reluctantly the eyes resign Their cherish’d gaze upon thee, lovely Rhine ! ’Tis with the thankful glance of parting praise: More mighty spots may rise—more glaring shine, Rut none unite in one attaching maze The brilliant, fair, and soft,—the glories of old days. “ The negligently grand, the fruitful bloom Of coming ripeness, the white city's sheen, The rolling stream, the precipice’s gloom, The forest’s growth, and Gothic walls be¬ tween The wild rocks shap’d as they had turrets been In mockery of man’s art; and these withal A race of faces happy as the scene, Whose fertile bounties here extend to all, Still springing o’er thy banks, though Empires near them fall.” Bykon. To tkc above accurate description of the poet is added another in prose, 262 ROUTE 37. —THE RHINE (c). RAFTS. from the pen of a German, because it serves to illustrate tire feelings of pride and almost veneration with which the Rhine is regarded in Germany; it is indeed looked upon as the national river. “ There are rivers whose course is longer, and whose volume of water is greater, but none which unites almost everything that can render an earthly object magnificent and charming in the same degree as the Rhine. As it flows down from the distant ridges of the Alps, through fertile regions, into the open sea, so it comes down from remote antiquity, associated in every age with momentous events in the history of the neighbouring nations. A river which presents so many historical recollections of Roman conquests and defeats, of the chivalric exploits in the feudal periods, of the wars and negotiations of modern times, of the coronations of emperors, whose bones repose by its side; on whose borders stand the two grandest monuments of the noble architecture of the middle ages ; whose banks present every variety of wild and picturesque rocks, thick forests, fertile plains ; vine¬ yards, sometimes gently sloping, some¬ times perched among lofty crags, where industry has won a domain among the fortresses of nature; whose banks are ornamented with populous cities, floiuishing towns and villages, castles and ruins, with which a thousand legends arc connected, with beautiful and romantic roads, and salutary mineral springs ; a river whose waters offer choice fish, as its banks offer the choicest wines ; which, in its course of 900 miles, affords 630 miles of uninter¬ rupted navigation, from Basle to the sea, and enables the inhabitants of its banks to exchange the rich and various products of its shores; whose cities, famous for commerce, science, and works of strength, which furnish pro¬ tection to Germany, are also famous as the seats of Roman colonies and of ecclesiastical councils, and are associ¬ ated with many of the most important events recorded in the history of man¬ kind ;—such a river it is not surprising that the Germans regard with a kind of reverence, and frequently call in Sect. IV. poetry Father or King Rhine.” — Dr. Lieber. Rafts on the Rhine. —Every tra¬ veller on the Rhine should have his attention called to the vast floating islands of timber which he will con¬ stantly meet with on that river. They are the produce of the forests which cover the remote hills and mountains traversed by the Rhine and its tribu¬ taries,—the Ncckar, the Murg, the Main, the Moselle, &c. &c. They are first hurled down, in single logs, from the almost inaccessible heights where they have grown, and, having been felled, are committed to some rushing mountain rivulet, whenever its waters, swelled by rain or melting snow, suffice to float them. If the tree escape un¬ shattered from the rocks against which it is dashed by the stream, it is caught, bound together with other logs, and again set afloat, till it is conveyed by the tributary rivulet into the recipient river, and reaches other stations on its banks, where it is again enlarged, and intrusted to the care of boatmen to navigate. It may thus bear the same motto as the snowball, vires acquirit eundo , until, on reaching the lower part of the Rhine, it is carefully built into one prodigious fabric, which is then navigated to Dortrecht, and sold. These constructions have the appearance of a floating village, composed of 8 or 10 little wooden huts, on a large platform of oak and deal timber. The rowers and workmen sometimes amount to 400 or 500, superintended by pilots, and a proprietor, whose habitation is superior in size and elegance to the rest. The captain places himself upon a raised platform or stage, from which he can survey the float from end to end, and direct, by words and signs, its movements. It is steered by means of anchors and the immense oars or sweeps of a quadruple row of rowers, placed fore and aft. The vast fabric bends and twists like a snake, when passing- near dangerous eddies and narrow straits, such as are met with in the Rhine under the Lurlei and the Bingen Loc-h. The raft is composed of several layers of trees, placed one on 263 llhen. Prussia, route 37. —the riiine (c). steamers. the other, and strongly fastened to¬ gether by chains and rivets, planked over with rough deals so as to form a deck, which is sunk nearly to the level of the water. Several smaller rafts are attached to it by way of protection, besides a string of boats loaded with anchors and cables, and used for the purpose of sounding the river and going on shore. The domestic economy of an East-Indiaman, or an English man- of-war, is hardly more complete. The boatmen are often accompanied by their wives and families, and spinning, knitting, tailoring, dressmaking, are carried on; poultry, pigs, and other animals are to he found on hoard— and several butchers are attached to the suite. A well-supplied boiler is at work night and day in the kitchen; the dinner-hour is announced by a basket stuck on a pole, at which signal the pilot gives the word of command, and the workmen run from all quarters to receive their messes. The con¬ sumption of provisions in the voyage is almost incredible. It has been stated to be, from the time the construction of the raft commences until it is sold at Dort, 45,000 lbs. of bread, 30,000 lbs. of fresh and dried meat, 15,000 lbs. of butter, 10,000 lbs. of cheese, 50 sacks of dried vegetables, 500 tuns of beer, 8 butts of wine, and several other articles in proportion. The expenses are so great that a large capital is necessary to undertake a raft. Their navigation is a matter of considerable skill, owing to the abrupt windings, the rocks and shallows of the river; and some years ago the secret was thought to bo mo¬ nopolised by a boatman of Itiideshcim and his sons. At present the rafts are not so largo as formerly; instead of 900 feet in length, they are now commonly not more than 600 or 700 ; they never ex¬ ceed 250 in breadth, and are subjected to be measured at Caub, to ascertain that they do not exceed this width ; if larger they could not pass through the narrow channel between the rocks at Obcrwesel. They do not draw more than 2 or 3 ft. of water. The smaller rafts, which still often require 400 men to navigate them, are both more easily managed, and can also set out from a higher point up the river than the larger floats. A single float is com¬ monly the property of a great number of shareholders. The timber is sold at the end of the voyage, and sometimes produces from 300,000 to 350,000 florins (25,000/. or 30,000/.). During the years 1839, 1840, and 1841, the average quantity of timber imported into Holland by the Ehine amounted annually to 110,500 tons Eng. weight, consisting principally of wood suited for ship and house building, wainscot logs, spars, weals, staves, and firewood ; the whole of which is consumed in Holland, with the exception of some trifling quantity sent to the colonies. The value of the Rhenish timber con¬ sumed annually in Holland amount to about 170,000/. The voyage from Bingen to Dort may be performed, under favourable circumstances, in 8 days ; but it sometimes takes up 6 weeks. It is curious to find that the boatmen who navigate the Rhine still call the 1. bank of the river Franken- land, and designate the rt. Hessen- land,—though these names no longer apply to the present possessors of either bank. Steamboats on the Rhine. —• (See Rte. If.) 1. Belonging to the Amalgamated Cologne and Diisseldorf Company. 2. The Netherlandish or Dutch Company, between Rotterdam and Mannheim. At the rate of 10 or 12 m. against the stream, and of 15 m, with it. Steamers daily in summer. Mannheim to Mayence . 2 or 3 Mayence to Cologne . . 4 to 6 Cologne to Rotterdam, several. There are also night-steamers , fur¬ nished with sleeping-berths for passen¬ gers. As the hours of departure and arrival are constantly changing, the traveller is referred to the Companies’ printed bills, which he may obtain at their offices, and find in every inn or steam¬ boat he enters; or to the numerous little books, with time-tables, fares, distances, &c., published in France, Belgium, and Germany. The best as« 264 ROUTE 37. —THE RHINE (C). SCENERY. those compiled by Hendschel, and pub¬ lished by Jiigcl, at Frankfurt a. M. Carriages are embarked and landed free of charge. The steam-boats are divided into 3 cabins:—1. The pavilion. 2. The chief cabin. 3. The after-cabin, for servants and inferior persons. The pa¬ vilion differs from the chief cabin only in being more expensive; and unless a person wishes to bo very exclusive, be lias no occasion to take any other place than the second cabin. Meals are provided on board, at prices fixed by a printed tariff bung up in the cabin. Dinner at the table- d’hdte, at 1 o’clock, 17 S. gr.; at other times, apart, 1 dollar; half a bottle of wine, 6 S. gros.; tea or coffee, with bread and butter, 7 S. gr. Caution .—Places are booked at all parts of the Bhine and at Frankfurt direct for London, daily , but the tickets so issued are available only for one set of steamers plying between Botterdam and London. One of the Bhcnish com¬ panies corresponds with the Batavier, which sails only once a week ; conse¬ quently the unwary traveller may be detained 7 days at Botterdam, unless he choose to sacrifice the money which he has paid, and take a passage in the other company’s steamers. Even upon the Bhine it is scarcely worth while, for the sake of a small saving, to bind oneself down to go by the boats of a particular company. If the hour of departure happen not to suit the traveller, or he arrive too late for the boat to which he is engaged, he must either forfeit his money, or wait till the next day. If he pay the money in advance, he has probably only one chance in a day; if he is free, he has three or four up and down the river. In 1827, when the Cologne company commenced, 18,000 passengers were conveyed up and down, between Cologne and Mayence; the number had increased to 800,000 in 1851, and is now not less than 1,000,000, The completion of the Railways along both hanks of the Bhine has diminished the use of steamers up the stream, except in that portion between Bonn and Mayence, where the deck of the Sect. IV. steamer affords the best means of en¬ joying the scenery. The traveller who confines himself to the Bhine, and the routes contigu¬ ous to and branching off from it, will find that, with very few excep¬ tions, he may make his way very well without knowing any other language than French, which is generally spoken in the inns, passport and coach offices, and public conversances, from Cologne to Mayence and Frankfurt, and thence to Baden. The money current upon the Rhine is, in Prussia, Dollars and Groschcn (§ 4-8); higher up, in Nassau, Frankfurt, and Baden, Florins and Krcutzcrs. (Sec¬ tion VII.) Scenery of the Bhine. —The glo¬ ries of the Bhine commence about 20 m. above Cologne with the beautiful cluster of mountains called the Siebcn- gebirge; and the banks of the river afford, nearly up to Mayence, a succes¬ sion of scenes of equal beauty and variety. English travellers are often under the erroneous impression that they have seen the Bhine in passing up and down in a steam-vessel, and they hurry onwards to something beyond the Bhine. It may be said of them, in the words of a homely phrase, that they “ go farther and fare worse.” The views in many places, looking down upon the Bhine from its lofty banks, far surpass those from the river itself; and the small valleys, which pour in their tributary streams on the rt. hand and 1., have beauties to unfold of which the steam-driven tourist has no conception, which arc entirely lost to him. At the same time, to avoid disappointment at first, he should remember that below Bonn or Godesbcrg he will find no¬ thing to admire in the ‘scenery of' the river. In order thoroughly to ex¬ plore and appreciate the Bhine, it is necessary every now and then to make a halt, and the following places appear the most appropriate stations to remain at:— Goclesberg, or Konigs- winter; Coblenz; St. Goar ; Bingen; or Riidesheim. Bailroads — Cologne to Coblcnzby Botin T Remagen , and Rolandsech , about 47 Eng. Rhen. Prussia, route 37.—the Rhine (c). cologne to bonn. 265 m. Trains in 1^ hr. Terminus at Cologne (Central Bahn-hof), near the Dom. Express trains, Cologne to Mayence in 4f hrs.; ordinary trains 6 hrs. The seats on the 1. side of the carriages alone command the view. Quitting Cologne, the train leaves rt. the line to Aix (Rte. 36), passes the goods depot, and skirts the city Avails on the W. side. Distance by the Rhine 54 Eng. m. The line at first runs through a plain of corn-fields, at some distance from the Rhino, and near a chain of hills called Vorgebirge. 1 . Kalscheuren Stat. '5. Briihl Stat., in front of the Cha¬ teau built by the Episcopal Elector, Clement Augustus, 1728 : it was the residence of Marshal Davoust in the time of Napoleon, and now belongs to the Prussian Government. The King of Prussia received Queen Victoria here in 1845, during the Beethoven fes- tival at Bonn. It contains some por¬ traits of Electors and old German princes, and has a garden and an old-fashioned park attached to it. The ancient Franciscan commit is now a seminary for schoolmasters. Briihl contains about 2000 Inhab. {Inns: Pavilion and Belvedere). 1 . The hunting-seat of Falkenlust, united to Briihl by aA r enues of trees, also belonged to the Electors. •7. Sechtem. At Waldorf are remains of a Roman aqueduct, which, extending up to the course of the Erft, conveyed its Abaters to the Rhine. •8. Roisdorf Stat. Here are mineral springs resembling the Seltzer Avatcr. The outline of the Seven Mountains be¬ yond the Rhine is a pleasing feature in the vieAV. The Kreuzbcrg, Avith its ch., and the village of Poppclsdorf, are seen rt. before reaching- •9. Bonn Stat., close to the horse- chestnut avenue leading to Poppclsdorf. Omnibus from the stat. to the steamers. Several steamers start every morning from Cologne to Coblenz, making the A r oyage in 8 hrs., descending in 5. [N. 0.] At the upper end of Cologne, at the margin of the river, rises the Bayen- thurm , a stately and picturesque Gothic tower of the 14th cent. From its position, projecting into the river, it serves in winter to stave off the ice- shocks from the city below. From Cologne to Bonn the banks of the Rhine are as flat and uninteresting as in Holland, and the A'illages which lie on them do not require any notice. On nearing Bonn, the picturesque out¬ line of the Sicbcngebirge (7 mountains) on the rt. bank, rivets the attention. rt. The castle of Siegburg, rising con¬ spicuously on an eminence above the Sieg, about 3 m. E. of the Rhine, is noAv a lunatic asylum. rt. Mouth of the river Sieg. Tho Sicambri (Sieg - ambri), an ancient people, lived upon its banks. rt. At Schwarz-Rheindorf, opposite Bonn, about ^ m. beloAV the Flying- Bridge, there is a curious architec¬ tural monument, The Stiff Kirche —a church of 2 stories. It was erected by Arnold von Weld, Archbishop of Co¬ logne, in 1151, yet it is entirely in the Romanesque style, shoAving no traces of the pointed Gothic. The upper church, now restored for divine worship, is surrounded by an open gallery or arcade, supported by more than 100 little pillars, whose bases and capitals exhibit a prolific variety of ornament. It will interest none but architects and antiquaries. * 1. Bonn Stat., Buffet. Inns: Goldner Stern (Star), good and comfortable, in the market-place ; Colnischer Hof (Cour de Cologne) ; Konig-licher Hof (Royal Hotel) outside the Coblenz gate; Hotel Klcy—these have gardens doAvn to the water-side;—Deutscher Hof (II. d’Allemagne), near the Raihvay, good and moderate. Boarding House: Chateau du Rhin, close to the river, quiet, comfortable, and well kept, by an English lady, Mrs. Livermore. The I red AA r incs called Walporzheimer and Ahrbleichart, produced in the neigh¬ bouring valley of the Ahr, are very good here. Bonn, a town of 19,425 Inhab., on i the 1. bank of the Rhine, is chiefly re- N 266 BOUTE 37. —THE RHINE (c). BONN. Sect. IV. markable for its University, established by the Xing of Prussia in 1818. Prince •Albort was a student here. The students of the present day must beware lest they obtain the character of ruffians —1865. Among those who hare filled chairs here, the most distinguished are Niebuhr and A. W. Schlcgel, both dead. . Tllc Electors of Cologne formerly re¬ sided here, having removed their court hither from Cologne in 1268. Their huge palace, built 1730, nearly i m . long, now serves to contain the Univcr- s ity ; and includes the Lecture-rooms, Library of about 150,000 vols., and the ■Academical Hall, decorated with modern fiescoes, painted under the direction of Cornelius by his pupils. The subjects are the four faculties, Philosophy, Juris¬ prudence, Medicine, in which Cuvier and Linnaeus are conspicuous, and -theology, where Luther, Calvin, AVick- liffe, St. Jerome and the Fathers, Igna¬ tius Loyola, and other divines, both liken. Prussia. ROUTE 37.— THE RIIINE (c). BONN. Catholic and Protestant, arc intro¬ duced. The same building contains the Mu¬ seum of Rhenish Antiquities , a small but interesting assemblage of local remains discovered on the banks of the Rhine, and relics of Roman settlements in this part of Germany, in three small rooms, but not named nor catalogued. The following seem to be the most remark¬ able objects :—A Roman altar, dedicated to Victory, which formerly stood in the square called Romcrplatz, and is sup¬ posed by some to be the identical Ara Ubiorum mentioned by Tacitus (Annal. I. 39). A bronze vase, bearing figures of Hercules, Mars, and Venus, in a pure style of art, found at Zlilpich. Nume¬ rous weapons, trinkets, vases, glass ves¬ sels, a winged head of Mercury, found at Haddcrnhcim ; the gravestone of one M. Cselius, w'ho fell in the great battle of Varus against Arminius, very interesting from the event it com¬ memorates, as well as for its re¬ presentation of Roman military cos¬ tume; Jupiter’s wig and a thunderbolt of bronze, from the Hundsriick; tiles stamped with the numbers of several Roman legions (xxi. xxii.) stationed in these parts ; a Roman millstone of Mcn- dig tufa, and an ancient German shield of wood, dug up at Isenburg, in "\Vcstpha- lia, besides 200 bronzes. The Univer- setatspcdell shows the hall—fee 5 S. gr., for the Museum 8 S. gr. The collec¬ tions are opened to the public Wed. and Sat., 12-1 ; the library on the same days, 2-4. A double Avenue of chestnuts , about 2 m. long, forming an agreeable walk, con¬ ducts to the Chateau of Poppelsdorf , con¬ taining the Museum of Natural History. The collection of minerals and fossils is extensive and good, and especially in¬ teresting, as illustrating the geology of the Rhine, and of the volcanic deposits of the Siebcngebirge and Eifel, arranged by Prof. Goldfuss. Among the fossil remains may be seen a complete series from the brown coal formation of Fries- dorf, near Bonn. A set of fossil frogs, from the most perfect state down to that of a tadpole, discovered in the shale called paper-coal, descrycs notice. At- 267 tachcd to the Chateau is the Botanic Garden , very spacious, very rich, and beautifully, situated. f hour’s good walking brings you from this garden to the church on the Krcutzberg. The Minster , a fine building exter¬ nally, surmounted by 5 towers, was 'founded, it is said, by Helena, mother of Constantine the Great, and contains a bronze statue of her, in the style and of the age of Louis XIV. The circuit of the choir and its 2 towers were apparently built in the 10th cent. : the rest, including the middle tower, about the year 1177. The more re¬ markable parts are the central tower and the windows of the nave formed of 5 small pointed arches. The interior is very plain. It contains 2 good mo¬ numents of ecclesiastics. To the Reading-Rooms of the Univer¬ sity admission may be obtained by a Professor’s order. The English Ch. Service is performed on Sunday by an English clergyman, in the Electoral Chapel of the Schloss. There is a very good club (§ 40) here, called Lose- and Erholungs- Gesellschaft. Hr. Wolff is a clever and safe phy¬ sician ; also Dr. Ungar: both speak English. Beethoven, the composer, w r as bom (1770, d. 1827) in the house No. 934, Rheingasse. A bronze statue by Hahncl was erected to him in 1845, in the Munster-platz. In the Churchyard , outside the Sterncn Thor, Niebuhr the historian is buried. His monument, placed on the wall against the road, is by Rauch. Also A. W. Sehlcgcl. Here also are the graves of several students killed in duels. A small Romanesque chapel (d. 1200), brought from Romcrsdorf, has been set up here. The most notable events in the annals of Bonn are its capture after a long siege, in 1584, by Arclibp. Ernest of Bavaria, from Gebhard Truchsess, who had been deposed from the see because he had become a Protestant; and its surrender to the English and Dutch army under Marlborough, in 1703, after a siege, the operations of which were conducted by the celebrated Cochorn. N 2 268 Sect, IV. R. 37.- —THE RHINE (c). In the course of it a great part of the town was burnt. Bonn is mentioned by Tacitus as Castra Bonncnsia, and was the spot where Claudius Civilis, the rebel leader of the Batavi, was defeated by the Bomans, a. i>. 70. (Ilist. iv. 20.) At Bonn the beauties of the Bhine may he said to have already commenced. There are several most agreeable excur¬ sions round about it, and the view of the Seven Mountains on the opposite side of the river is strikingly grand. They are seen to great advantage from the Bastion, or terrace , called Alte Zoll , overlooking the Bhine, outside the Cob¬ lenz gate. On the summit of the Kreuzberg, one of the hills behind Poppelsdorf, 1^ m. from Bonn, is a church formerly attached to a convent of Servites, built 1627. In a chapel behind the altar are shown the Sacred Stairs which led up to Pilate’s Judgment Hall, still bearing stains of the blood which fell from the wounds caused on the Saviour’s brow by the Crown of Thorns ! They were built of Italian marble by the Elector Clement Augustus (1725), in imitation of the staircase at Borne called the ScalaSanta; andnoone is allowed to ascend them except on his knees. A trap¬ door in the pavement leads into a small vault under the church, remarkable for having preserved, in an undecayed state, the bodies of the monks buried in them. These lie in 25 open coffins, with cowl and cassock on. The flesh in some is preserved, though shrivelled up to the consistence of a dried stockfish—they are in fact natural mummies, and their preservation is attributed to the dryness of the sandy soil. They have been in¬ terred here at various times, from 1400 to 1713. The church is annually visited by numerous pilgrims, chiefly the rude peasants of the Eifel. The other agreeable expeditions which may be made from Bonn are to—1. Godcsberg, on the road to Coblenz, and the Alum Works at Friesdorf; 2. The Drachenfels and Siebengebirge, with the ruins of Heisterbach on the oppo¬ site side of the Bhine, described further on; 3. The Lower Eifel (Bte. 40); 4. BONN TO COBLENZ. The valley of the Ahr (Bte. 39). A direct carriage-road leads over the hills to Altenahr, 18 m. Steamer, Bonn to Coblenz, 4^ lirs. Omnibus to Siegburg Stat., Bte. 47, beyond the Bhine; crossing it by the flying bridge. BONN TO COBLENZ. Railway , traversing the Poppelsdorf Avenue, runs at first across the plains at a little distance from the Bhine. (1.) After leaving Bonn about 3 m., see 1. a Gothic Cross called Hochkreuz , erected by an Archbishop of Cologne, 1331. 49 [About 1 m. from this, to the rt. of the road, are the brown-coal mines and alum - works of Friesdorf. The stratum here worked is, in fact, a forest, buried in an early period of the world’s existence, and now converted into lignite or broAvn coal. The trunks of trees are intermixed with clays and sands, and exhibit all the stages from fossil wood, in which the vegetable fibre and texture arc quite discernible, down to bituminous earthy coal fit for burning as fuel. Many fossil fishes and freshwater 'shells are found in these beds. Associated with the coal is a stratum furnishing the ingredients for extensive alum-works. The alum of commerce is a compound of sulphuric acid, potash, and aluminous earth, and all these sub¬ stances are obtained on the spot, from materials found in contact with the alum clay. The sulphuric acid is formed by the action of air and moisture upon iron pyrites (sulphuret of iron), previ¬ ously gently roasted, and the potash from the ashes of the brown coal used as fuel in evaporating and crystallising the alum salt. The same mine fur¬ nishes a fine potter’s clay, which is used in making the conical moulds employed in refining beet-root sugar, which is extensively manufactured hereabouts. At Putzburg, near Friesdorf, gigantic trunks of trees, sometimes 10 or 12 ft. in diameter, occur embedded in the strata. The earthy brown coal worked here affords the valuable pigment known Uhen. Prussia. 269 R. 37. —THE RHINE (c). GODESBERG. by the name of burnt umber, or Co¬ logne earth.3 1. Plittersdorf, a village of quaint houses fronting the river. Here the steamer stops for passengers to or from Godesberg, 1| m. distant from the Rhine, and 5 from Bonn. Hero is a ferry to Niedcr-Dollendorf (fare, lS.gr.). [About 2 m. inland S.E. from Nieder- Dollendorf lie the ruins of the Cistercian Abbey of Heisterbach. A carriage-road leads to it. The pedestrian, after pass¬ ing Ober-Dollendorf, will proceed by a wooded path into the Petersthal, a se¬ cluded valley at the base of the Peters- berg, one of the Seven Mountains, in which the Abbey lies. A fragment— the apse of the choir—alone remains to attest its ancient magnificence. It is a beautiful specimen of the finest style of the transition from the round to the pointed styles—begun in 1202, finished 1233. The building was sold for the mere value of the materials by the French in 1806, and the greater part was pulled down and removed to form the fortifications of Wes cl. The beau¬ tiful fragment which still exists is care¬ fully preserved from further decay by the Count zur Lippe-Biesterfcld, its present owner, and well deserves the stranger’s attention. ] Godesberg Stat. Inn: Blinzler’s Hotel—very good. The Bellevue was built as a Ivursaal by the last Elector of Cologne, who projected making Godesberg a watering-place, but was prevented by the French Revolution. Table-d’hote, 15 S. gr.; in private, 1 th.; table wine, 15 S. gr. ; breakfast and tea, 10 S. gr.; bed, 15 S. gr. Visitors may board at 5 frs. a day, exclusive of wine. Donkeys ply near the hotel, to convey personss up to the castle, or for other excursions in the neighbourhood. Godesberg, a village of 1000 Inhab., on the high road, is, on account of its situation, near the Rhine, an agreeable summer residence. Many rich mer¬ chants of Cologne, Elbcrfeld, &c., have villas here. Hear it is a mineral spring, called Draitschcr Brunnen, where there arc baths, 10 S, gr, each, 3 m - from the stat., to be reached by numerous paths winding round the hill, is the ancient Castle Keep. It was built by the warlike Archbishops of Cologne, 1212 , on the site of a Roman fort, and served them long as a stronghold, till the Bavarians took it and blew it up, 1583, because it held out for the Pro¬ testant Archbp. GebhardTruchscss. The cylindrical Donjon tower (100 ft. high, built 134-0) commands a beautiful pros¬ pect over the Rhine. The key is kept at the v'ell below. The interior of the castle is now the village eh.-yard. Godesberg is l-j m. distant from the Rhine : persons staying here may make exciu’sions to—1. The volcanic hill of Roderberg. 2. The Seven Mountains. The nearest way to them is to cross the Rhine by the Flying Bridge to Konigs- winter, at the foot of the Drachenfels. This excursion maybe lengthened profit¬ ably, by ascending the 1. bank of the Rhine as far as Rolandseck, and, after exploring its ruined castle, crossing in a boat to Nonnenwerth and then drop¬ ping down the river to Konigswinter. The excursion v r ill not take up more than a day, and is decidedly a very in¬ teresting one. 3. The short tour up the valley of the Ahr (Rte. 39). 4. “A visit to the abbey of Heisterbach may be combined with the tom 1 of the Seven Mountains, but is better made sepa¬ rately, crossing the Rhine by the ferry from Plittersdorf (1.) to Niedcr-Dollen¬ dorf. Mehlem Stat. is 5 min.’s walk from the Rhine, and from the ferry (flying bridge) across it to rt. Konigswinter ( Inns: H. de 1’Eu¬ rope, comfortable—Hotel de Berlin ; both overlooking the Rhine), a village of 1500 Inhab., at the foot of the Dra¬ chenfels, which is most conveniently ascended from this in 50 min. Hein¬ rich Becher is a good guide to the 7 mountains. Asses for the ascent of the mountain cost 10 S. gr.; to Hei¬ sterbach, 2 a m., 20 S. gr. Boats to Nonnenwerth and back, 20 S. gr.; to Bonn, 15 S. gr. \ rt. The Seven Mountains (Sieben- gebirge), This group of hills, in reality 270 Sect. IV. ROUTE 37.— THE RHINE more than 7 in number, forms a grand commencement to the beautiful scenery of the Rhine. They are the highest and wildest on its banks, entirely of volcanic origin, and consist of lava, trachyte, and basalt, ejected through the rocks, which form the basement of the surrounding country, by subterra¬ neous eruptions which took place pre¬ vious to the existence of any human re¬ cord or tradition. The names and heights of the 7 principal summits (for there are many minor heights) arc as follows:—Stromberg, 1053 ft. ; Nie- derstromberg, 1066 ft.; Oelberg, 1453 ft. (the highest) ; Wolkenberg, 1055 ft.; Drachenfels, 1056 ft.; Lowenberg, 1414 ft. (commanding a view considered by some superior to that from the Drachen¬ fels) ; and Ilcmmerich. They are al¬ most all crowned with a chapel or the ruin of some ancient tower or hermit’s cell, which adds much to their pictur¬ esque features. The trachyte rock of the 'Wolkenberg is quarried to a considerable extent as building stone. It abounds in the mi¬ neral called glassy felspar. The most interesting of the whole group, from its shape and position, but more than all from the verses of Byron, is the famed Drachenfels (Dragon Rock), whose precipices rise abruptly from the river side, crowned with a ruin. “ The castled crag of Drachenfels Frowns o’er the wide and winding Rhine, Whose breast of waters broadly swells Between the hanks which bear the vine; And hills all rich with blossom’d trees, And fields which promise corn and wine, And scatter’d cities crowning these, Whose far white walls along them shine, Have strew’d a scene which I should see With double joy wert thou with me. “ And peasant girls with deep blue eves. And hands which oiler early flowers, Walk smiling o’er this paradise ; Above, the frequent feudal towers Through green leaves lift their walls of gray, And many a rock which steeply lowers, And noble arch in proud decay, Look o’er this vale of vintage-bowers; But one thing want these banks of Rhine,— Thy gentle hand to clasp in mine! “ The river nobly foams and flows, The charm of this enchanted ground. And all its thousand turns disclose Some fresher beauty varying round : The haughtiest breast its wish might bound (c). DRACHENFELS. Through life to dwell delighted here ; Nor could on earth a spot be found To nature and to me so dear, Could thy dear eyes in following mine Still sweeten more these banks of Rhine!” Bybox. y The summit of the Dracbenfels com¬ mands a noble view, and it may be reached in about half an hour from Konigswinter. The slopes are covered with brushwood, through which the path winds, except near the summit where the rock break through. Tho traveller is shown the quarry from which the stones were originally taken to build the cathedral of Cologne, called, in consequence, Dombruch, and tho cave of the Dragon (from which tho mountain was named) killed, as it is reported, by the horned Siegfried, the hero of the Niebclungcn Lay. On a platform a little below the top is a toler¬ able tavern, where people may dine. The ruined fragment on the top of a tall keep-tower, reduced to 3 sides of wonderfully solid masonry, is of remote origin, and was once the seat of a noble race, long since extinct, named after the mountain on which they dwelt. They were dependent upon the Archbp. of Cologne as feudal superior, and seem to have chosen this airy situation for their castle from the facilities it afforded them for spying at a distance the merchant’s laden boat or labouring waggon, and for sallying down to pillage or exact tribute. Tho View hence extends down the river as far as Cologne, 20 m. off; up¬ wards, the Rhine is soon shut in by rocks, which, however, are very grand, while Bonn and its University, with old castles, villages, and farm-houses almost beyond number, till up the foreground of the landscape. The principal objects are Remagen and Apollinarisberg, the volcanic chain of the Eifel behind, Obcr- winter and the island Nonnenwcrth, the ruined arch of Rolandseck, the ex¬ tinct crater of Roderberg, and the don¬ jon of Godcsberg. Scarcely less interesting is the view in the rear of the Drachenfels, over the Seven Mountains and their interven¬ ing valleys. The ruins on several of their summits are remains of castles of the Archbishops of Cologne, In Jihen. Prussia. 271 E. 37.—THE RHINE (c). EOLANDSECK. that which crowned the Lovcenberg the reformers Melancthon and Bucer passed some time with the Archbp. Her¬ man yon Wied, who afterwards adopted the reformed faith; and his successor, the Protestant Archbp. Gebharcl Truch- sess, took refuge here, with his beauti¬ ful wife, Agnes von Mansfeldt, 1585. The view from this summit extends back over part of the "Westcrwald and of Westphalia. 1. Near Mehlern is the Iioderberg, one of the most interesting extinct volcanoes on the Ehine. Its crater is circular, nearly 1 m. in diameter, and 100 ft. deep. It is now covered with fields of corn. The sides are composed in many places of tufa and scoriae, exactly similar to those found on Vesuvius. From this crater you may walk through the gorge called Eliasschlucht to the ridge on which stand the ruined arch and turrets of (1.) the Castle of Eolandseck, an admirable point of view for surveying the Ehine. This ruin receives its name from a tra¬ dition that the famous nephew of Char¬ lemagne chose this spot because it com¬ manded a view of the Convent of Non- nenworth, within whose walls his be¬ trothed bride had taken the veil upon hearing a false report of his having fallen at Eoncesvalles. He lived here a lonely hermit for many years, accord¬ ing to the story, which has furnished the subject of one of Schiller’s most beautiful ballads, “ The Knight of Tog- genburg.” The scene, however, has been transferred by Schiller from the Ehine to Switzerland, and the tale to the time of the Crusades. The castle is called, in the oldest records where it is mentioned, Itulcheseck, and the con¬ vent Eulchcsworth. The former was, at one time, a nest of robbers, whose depredations rendered them the terror of the vicinity. X Eolandseck Stat. Buffet, good. Inns : II. dc Eoland, with pretty garden, at foot of the rock: II. dc Eolandseck, often full in summer. The bold and precipitous rock of Eolandseck, composed of prismatic basalt, with its scanty and mouldering baronial fortress and desolate arch, is a very striking object from the river. Its summit, § m. from the Stat., 340 ft. above the Ehine, commands a view less extensive but more picturesque than that from the Drachenfels on the opposite bank. Eolandseck projects so far forward, that the rad and high road have barely room to pass between its foot and the brink of the Ehine. Exactly opposite, in the middle of the stream, is the island of Nonnenvcerth (Nun’s island), so called from the large building upon it, embowered in trees, an Ursuline nunnery, built 1673, on the site of that which was once the asylum of the bride of the unfortunate Eoland. The amiable intercession of Josephine with Napoleon, on behalf of the liuns, is said to have preserved to them the possession of their ancient retreat, at the time when the other re¬ ligious establishments on the Ehine were secularised by the French. It still remains in the condition in which it was left by its former inmates, and has been again converted into a nun¬ nery for Sisters of Charity. 1. Obcrwinter, a village through which the road passes. The greater part of the road from Eolandseck to ltemagen may be said to be literally quarried in the rock. It was begun by the Bavarians, continued by the French, and completed by the Prussians. The Eomans, however, have the credit of laying the founda¬ tions of this noble highway, as was proved by remains turned up by the modern road-makers, such as coffins, coins, and a Eoman milestone, the in¬ scription of which proved, that under Marcus Aurelius and Lucius Verus, a.d. 161-180, a road had been already formed here. 1. Opposite the village of ITnkel, whose market-place abounds with pic- turesque houses, is the Unkelstein, a hill composed of basaltic columns, re¬ sembling those of the Giant’s Cause¬ way. They are found both in a hori¬ zontal and vertical position, and extend far into the bed of the Ehine, where They formed an obstacle to the passage of timber-rafts, until the rock was blown up by the French. As it is, the current 272 of the Bhine sweeps with great force past the Unkelstoin. The basalt affords the best material for roads and pave¬ ments, on which account it is exten¬ sively quarried. In 1846 a landslip in the basalt lifted up the high-road 40 ft. above its former level. 1. Apollinarisberg , a wooded height, named after a Saint, whose head is pre¬ served here, bears on it a Gothic Church , built from designs of Zwirner (the restorer of the Dom of Cologne), by Graf Fiirstenberg of Stammheim; it is surmounted by 4 pinnacled spires, and decorated internally with Fres¬ coes. These, as some of the best of the works of the German fres¬ co-painters, arc well worth the tra¬ veller’s attention, and especially of all English artists. The subjects and artists are as follows:—Entering by the W. door : on the 1. are scenes from the life of Christ, by Deger. In the N. transept, St. Apollinaris destroying, through prayer, the statue of Jupiter in the presence of the Boman Empr., by A. Muller. Figures of Saints, by Ittenbach. The Crucifixion, and, be¬ neath, the Passion of Christ, by Deger. Justice, Prudence, Fortitude, and Tem¬ perance, by Ittenbach. Martyrdom of St. Apollinaris, by A. Muller. In the choir: on the 1. the Besurrection of Christ, by Deger. Noli me tangere, and Delivery of the Iveys to Peter, by Ittenbach. On the arch of the apse, the Adoration of the Lamb, and the Sacra¬ ments, by C. Muller. In the apse, Christ among the Saints of the old and new Covenant, by Deger. On the rt. of the choir, the Coronation of the Virgin, by C. Muller. In the S. transept, the episcopal ordination of St. Apollinaris, by A. Muller. SS. Theo¬ dore, Sophia, Francis of Assisi, and V. Paula, patrons of the founder and his family, by Ittenbach. Annunciation, Marriage, and Visitation of the Virgin (close to the window), by C. Muller. Faith, Love, Hope, and Humility, by Ittenbach. St. Apollinaris raises the daughter of the Governor of Bavenna, by A. Muller. On the rt. on entering by the V r . door, Scenes from the Le¬ gends of the Virgin, by Ittenbach. There Sect. IV. is a very good distant view of the 7 mountains from the Apollinarisberg. Ch. open 9| to 12 and 2 to 4. At the foot of the hill lies 1. 2~ Bemagen Stat. {Inns: Hotel Ftirstenberg; Kdnig von Preussen) ; the Bigomagus of the Bomans, a town of 1400 Inhab. It has nothing to interest the traveller, except the Bo- manesque Gateway, part of the Palace of the Frankish kings, now leading to the Pfarrhof, close to the church. The sculptures on it are quaint and difficult to explain ;—on the 1. jamb, a warrior trampling on another man; griffins; a man in a tub, &c. On the arch, figures male and female with fishes’ tails and birds, a sow with 3 pigs, &c. A Boman milestone dug up here proves that the Boman road passed this way to Cologne. Excursions may conveniently be made from this—1, to Ahrweiler, Neuenahr, and Altenahr, in the Ahr valley (Btc. 39) ; 2, to Brolil and the Lake of Laach, returning by Andernach. A carriage with 2 horses—to Ahrweiler, 2 thr. ; to Altenahr, 3 thr. (to and fro 44 to 5 thr.); to the Lake of Laach and back (a day), 4§ thr. ; but see the tariff. The Railway above Bemagen quits the side of the Bhine, crossing a flat plain to avoid a great bend which the river makes, to Aiederbreisig. On the way the bed of the Ahr, nearly dry in summer, is crossed. rt. A little beyond Bemagen, on the opposite bank, rise the basaltic preci¬ pices, 700 ft. high, called Erpeler Lei , hollowed into quarries of paving stones. The ingenuity of man has converted these barren rocks, which are almost inaccessible, into a productive vine¬ yard. The vines are planted in baskets filled with mould, and inserted in cre¬ vices of the basalt. By this means alone can the earth be preserved from being washed away by every shower. rt. The blackened Avails of the ruined castle of Ockenfels. A little further on is rt. Linz [Inn: Hassauer Hof), an ancient fortified toAvn, partly sur- ROUTE 37. —THE RHINE (c). REMAGEN. Wien. Prussia, route 37 . —the Rhine (c). sinzig. broke. 273 rounded by walls of basalt; it has i 2200 Inhab. An Archbp. of Cologne, in 1365, built the tower, still standing, near the Rhine gate, to enforce the pay¬ ment of tolls on the river, and to defend the place from the Burghers of Ander- nacli, who were engaged in almost per¬ petual feuds with him and the towns¬ people of Linz. The Pfarrkirche , on the height behind, commands a fine view; it contains some curious monu¬ ments of the noble families of the neighbourhood, and a picture of 7 compartments, probably of the school of Cologne, bearing the date 1463. A cross 40 ft. high has been placed on the top of the Hummelsberg, a hill be¬ hind Linz, as a memorial of the battle of Leipzig. About an hour’s walk from Linz are extensive and picturesque * Quarries of columnar basalt, like that of the Giant’s Causeway, or Fingal’s Cave in the Isle of Staffa, near the summit of the Minderberg; carriage- road to within 300 yds. of the top ; fine view. The basalt quarries of Datten- berg are only 20 min. walk from Linz. 1. The river Ahr issues into the Rhine opposite Linz. As its mouth is passed, the black conical summit of the Landskrone is seen up the Ahr valley. 1. IT Sinzig Stat. (Lins : Stem ; Krone), an old walled town, about 1^ m. from the Rhine, was the Scntiacum of the Romans. The Parish Church is an interesting building, of the time of the transition from the round to the pointed style, dating probably from the beginning of the 13th cent. The deco¬ ration of the AY. front, and of the ends of the transepts, resemble, on a smaller scale, those of the ch. at Neuss. The transition style is seen in the polygonal form of the choir, with a gable over each side. The interior resembles the ch. at Andernach, in having both pointed and circular arches, and over each aisle a gallery, called here the Mannhaus. According to an obscure tradition, near this spot the Cross appeared in the sky to Constantine, on his march to attack Maxentius. There is a rude painting representing this event in the church ; and in an adjoining chapel a natural mummy, called the Holy Vogt, carried to Paris by the French. Out of the ruins of the Reichs-Pfalz (Palace of the Empire), rt. of the stat., a Gothic castle has been raised by a merchant of Antwerp. Diligence to Alirweiler in li hr. rt. The gable-fronted chateau of Ar- genfels or Ahrenfels, the Stammhaus, or cradle of the family von der Leyen, is seen in the distance behind the an¬ cient village of Ilonningen. It has been restored by Graf AYesterholz, and a chapel with spire added. 1. Niederbrcisig Stat. Further from the river lies Obcrbreisig, with a curious ch. of the 14th cent. 1. The train passes under the Castle of Pheineck , an ancient watch-tower, 65 ft. high, to which a modern castellated residence has been added at a lavish expense, by Lassaulx , for Professor Betliman - Hollweg, of Bonn. The architectural taste displayed in this edifice is very questionable ; but it contains some modern pictures, and in its chapel are frescoes of the Beatitudes by Steinle. It is shown to strangers when the owner is absent. Its garden commands a fine view. 1. Brohl Stat., a small village (Nonn’s Inn, tolerable), at the mouth of the stream and valley of the Brohl. It possesses a paper-mill, and several others moved by the streams of the Brohl-Bach for grinding tuff-stone into trass (Dutch tiras— i. e. cement) ; and there are very singular cave-like quar¬ ries of tuff-stone about a mile up the stream. This rock resembles the tufa formed at the present day by Etna, Vesuvius, and other active volcanoes, and is probably the result either of a torrent of volcanic mud discharged from some extinct crater into the val¬ ley, or of showers of pumice and ashes, thrown up by one of the volcanoes of the Eifel, falling into a lake, mix¬ ing with the mud at the bottom of it, and now consolidated into a soft stone. This, when quarried and ground into powder, is called trass, and from its possessing the valuable property of hardening under water is in great request as a cement. Large quan- i tities are exported from this to dis- N 3 274 ROUTE 37. —THE RHINE (c). ANDERNACH. Sect. IV. tant countries, especially into Hol¬ land, where it is employed in the con¬ struction of the dykes ; it resembles the puzzolana of Naples, and the imi¬ tation of it, Roman cement. The an¬ cients made use of this kind of stone for coffins; and from its property of absorbing the moisture of the dead body, gave them the name of sarcophagi, i. e. flesh consumers. Votive tablets, bearing Roman inscriptions, have been discovered in the Rhenish quarries, proving at how early a period they were worked. Trunks of trees reduced to the condition of charcoal, and even land-shells of various species, are em¬ bedded in the substance of the rock. The mineral spring called Tonnisstein lies 4g m. up the valley. (See Rte. 40.) [The pleasant day’s excursion to the Lake of Laach, described in Rte. 40, may be made from Brohl, returning to the Rhine at Andernach.] The rly. cuts through the lava stream descending from the Fornicher- kopf. rt. On the summit of a bold, black, precipitous rock, opposite to an island in the river, stand the broken walls of Ilammerstein castle , built in the 10th cent., the refuge in 1105 of the Empr. Henry IV., when persecuted by his son, and the place of deposit for the time of the regalia of the Em¬ pire. It was besieged by the Swedes in the 30 years’ war, and destroyed by the Arclibp. of Cologne in 1660. The ; small old clr. within it is interesting. 1. Namedy has a pretty church. The rly. passes by the side of the Rhine, under the old walls of Ander- naeh; and at a distance of a mile from the town is f (1.) Andemach Stat. [Tan: H. Ilack- enbruck), one of the oldest cities on tire Rhine, 3000 Inhab. It was called by the Romans Antonacum, and originated in one of Drusus’ camps pitched on the spot. Most of the present fortifications date from 1577-83. The picturesque telescope Watch-tower , at the lower end of the town, by the water-side, round below, and eight-sided above (date 1520), and the Crane , a little lower down the stream, built 1554, add to its air of picturesque antiquity. There are 2 articles of traffic pe¬ culiar to this spot: millstones obtained from vcrysingular quarries ncarNicder- Mendig, and exported to England, Russia, the East and West Indies, and to other remote parts of the world. They were used by the Romans, and have been found among Roman ruins in England, and are spoken of as Rhe¬ nish millstones by Latin authors. The stone is a species of basaltic lava which separates into columns, and is used as door-posts, window-sills, and side-posts at the corners of the streets, &c. (Rte. 40.) Another volcanic production is the trass, or cement, brought from the neighbouring quarries of Brohl and Kruft. A species of pumice called Oven-stone, because, from its resisting heat, it is used for lining ovens, is also obtained from 14 quarries at Bell near Nieder-Mcndig, 5 m. "NV. of Andernach. The Parish Church has 4 towers; those at the W. end tall and much or¬ namented, built, together with the nave, in the beginning of the 13th cent., but the choir, the tower on its N. side, and the lower part of that on its S. side, belong probably to a preceding church of the 10th, which so far es¬ caped the destruction of Andernach by Philip of Hohenstaufen about 1200. A bas-relief over the S. door, the carv¬ ings of the capitals which support it, and the ornaments on the W. facade, are interesting specimens of sculpture. The interior is supported upon 2 tiers of arches of nearly equal height; behind the upper tier runs a spacious gallery, intended for the male part of the congregation, and called the man¬ ner chor, or mannshaus; the women sate below. The pulpit once belonged to the abbey cli. at Laach. The Franciscan cli. 1414-63, now a stable, has only 1 aisle attached to the nave. Beneath the Rathhaus is a Jews* Bath , of considerable antiquity (per¬ haps Roman). It has not been used since the Jews were expelled from the town, 1596; they have never since been allowed to settle here. The Coblenz Gate is an elegant Gothic JRhen. Prussia. 275 ROUTE 37. —TIIE RHINE (c). NEUWIED. portal. Adjoining it, on the rt. of tho road, arc the extensive ruins of tho castellated Palace of the Archbishops of Cologne, built about the end of the 15th cent. Not far from tho Stat., on the rt., are the noble remains of the Abbey of St. Thomas, a convent for ladies of rank, which was burnt in 1795. It is now turned into an asylum for incur¬ able lunatics. The architecture of St. Michael’s chapel, attached to it, is in¬ teresting : it was built in 1129. Excursions to the lake and abbey of Laach (ltte. 40) may be made in a carriage from hence, as a tolerable road leads thither through AYassenach (6 m.), also to Schloss Elz. At Andcrnach the mountains on both sides of the Rhine again approach the river, and form a majestic defile. rt. At the water’s edge stands the ruined castle of Friednchsstein , or the Teufelshaus, i. e. Devil’s House; so called probably by the peasants, or serfs, who were compelled to build it by forced labour. It was begun in the 17th cent, by a prince of Neuwied, but never finished. From Andcrnach to Coblenz the banks of the Ithine are flat. rt. Just above the village of Irrlich the river AYied issues out into the Rhine. A long avenue, partly of tall poplars, joins Irrlich with Neuwied. 1. The small river Nctte is crossed by the rly., which a little further on reaches Neuwied Stat., named from the town on the opposite side of tho Rhine, with which it is connected by a ferry. X rt. [ Neuwied (Pins: Briider-Geraeinde [ Moravian Hotel ] ; Golden Anker ; Wilder Mann), a neat and uniform town of straight streets, crossing each other at rt. angles (7000 Inhab.), the capital of the principality of AVied, now mediatized, and attached to Prussia. It was founded in 1653 on the site of a small town destroyed in the Thirty Years’ war, by Prince Frederick of AYied, who invited colonists of all persuasions, from all parts, to come and settle, ivith a pro¬ mise of perfect toleration. The wisdom of such liberality has been proved by the flourishing condition of the indus¬ trious manufacturing town which has sprung up in consequence, and by tho harmony in which Jews, Catholics, Protestants, and Herrnhuters live all together. The Palace of the prince is at the lower end of the town, on the Rhine. Here is a collection of Roman antiquities, derived from the buried city of Victoria, near the village of Niederbiber, 2 m. N. of Neuwied. The objects brought to light comprise a bronze genius nearly 2 feet high, helmets, weapons, a plough-share, tools of various trades, a sacrificial knife, pottery, coins, and hand-mills; bones of deer, pigs, dogs, and a large quantity of oyster-shells; proving that the garrison of a remote colony in the 3rd cent, sent all the way to tho sea for the luxuries of the table. Many tiles have been found stamped with the names and numbers of the legions quartered here. In the Pheasantry (Fasanerie), a detached building in the park, is the Museum of Natural History , remarkable for the collections made by Prince Maxi¬ milian of Neuwied during his travels in Brazil and North America. The Colony of Moravian Brothers exceeds 400, who occupy a distinct quarter of Neuwied: their establish¬ ment, church, schools, and workshops are worth seeing. Visitors are expected to make some purchase at the magazine. The park and gardens of the chateau of Monrcpos, situated between the AYied and the Rhine, 6 m. N.N.E. from Neu¬ wied, form a pleasant exclusion, and afford beautiful prospects. There is a flying bridge over the Rhine at Neuwied.] (1.) Tho train passes between the Rhine and the village of Weissenthurm (AYhite Tower), so called from the square watch-tower built by the electors of Treves to mark the frontier of their domain. Its modern church is decorated with frescoes. Here the French crossed the Rhine in spite of the opposi¬ tion'of the Austrians in 1797. On an eminence behind, to the rt. of the 276 Sect. IV. ROUTE 37. —THE RHINE (c). MUHLHOFEN. road, stands an Obelisk , erected to the memory of the French general Hoche, who achieved that memorable exploit by throwing a bridge across to the island in the middle of the river. The monument hears the simple inscription, “ L’Armee de Samhre et Meuse a son General Hoche.” Byron says of it, “This is all, and as it should he; Hoche was esteemed among the first of France’s earlier generals, until Napoleon mono¬ polised her triumphs. He was the destined commander of the invading army of Ireland.” (1.) Beyond Weissenthurm the rail¬ road quits the side of the Bhine. (rt.) Engcrs, a small village, with an old-fashioned Chateau , built 1758 by the Elector of Treves, facing the river. This is supposed to he the scene of Caesar’s second passage of the Bliine, de¬ scribed in his Commentaries, by means of a bridge which his army threw across the river. A short way above this the remains of a Boman bridge¬ head are discoverable near the river. (rt.) Miihlhofen, a village at the mouth of the river Sayn, rising out of which appear the furnaces of the Boyal Iron-works and Cannon Foundry (Sayner Ilfitte). fA good road strikes up the valley behind the village of Bendorf, and leads, in 3 m. from En- gers, and about 8 m. from Coblenz, to the village and modern Chateau of Sayn, belonging- to the Prince of Sayn- AVittgenstein-Berleburg. It is hand¬ somely furnished, and contains a good collection of modern paintings—shown in the absence of the family (on Thurs¬ day). Pleasant walks lead through the grounds behind to the picturesque ruins of the old Castle of Sayn, destroyed by the French in the 30 years’ war, crowning the point of the hill, and com¬ manding a fine view. Further up the valley is the romantic Park of Bcnne- berg. At the upper extremity of the valley is the castle of the Counts of Isenhurg, whence they used to sally forth and plunder the merchants upon the Bhine. The whole valley is beau¬ tiful ; the stream of the Sayn gives it verdure; its woody sides afford a cool shelter even in summer, and are inter¬ sected with walks, and provided with seats and summer-houses. It is a favourite excursion of the people of Coblenz. N. of the valley, about 1§ m. N. of Sayn, and as far N.E. of Engers, on the slope of a hill, stands the ruined abbey Rommersdorf. The church was consecrated in 1210 ; the chapter- house and cloister were built between 1214-1236. The abbey has become the property of the Due d’Aremberg, and is well preserved.] (rt.) The walls and buildings of the Castle of Ehrcnbreitstein, on the top of its massive and commanding rock pe¬ destal, are visible long before Coblenz appears behind the green slopes of the 1. bank. 1. Neuendorf. Here the compara¬ tively small timber-rafts from the upper Bhine and its tributaries, and from the Moselle, are formed into the large rafts which descend to Holland. (1.) Near Kcsselheim are remains of the chateau of Schonbornlust , originally a palace of the Elector of Treves, and only remarkable because it was the residence of the Bourbon princes and their supporters who were exiled from France during the first revolution. It became the head-quarters of the army of the refugees and their allies, and their plans of invading France were here concocted. The part of the build¬ ing- now standing serves as an inn. The plain between Andernach and Coblenz becomes every 3 years the scene of very extensive military re¬ views of the Prussian army ; 25,000 men are manoeuvred on these occasions, usually in August or September, for the space of one month. (1.) Near the junction of the Mo¬ selle and Bhine, the railway skirts the fortified height of Petersberg, crowned by the strong Fort Franz, AVithin its walls, on the 1. as you enter, a plain marble slab with 4 corner-stones marks the Grave of the French General Hoche , who died at AVetzlar. Not far off is the “ Monument of General Marceau, lihen. Prussia. 277 ROUTE 37. — THE RHINE (c). COBLENZ. killed at the battle of Altenkirchen, in attempting to cover the retreat of Jourdan, on the last day of the 4th year of the French republic.” (Sept. 21, 1796.) “ By Coblentz, on a rise of gentle ground, There is a small and simple pyramid, Crowning the summit of the verdant mound ; Beneath its base are heroes’ ashes hid. Our enemy’s—but let not that forbid Honour to Marceau! o’er whose early tomb Tears, big tears, gush’d from the rough sol¬ dier’s lid, Lamenting and yet envying such a doom, Falling for France, whose rights he battled to resume. “ Brief, brave, and glorious was his young career,— His mourners were two hosts, his friends | and foes; And fitly may the stranger lingering here Pray for liis gallant spirit’s bright repose ; j For he was Freedom’s champion, one of those. The few in number, who had not o’erstept The charter to chastise which she bestows On such as wield her weapons ; he had kept The whiteness of his soul, and thus men o’er him wept.” Byhon. Byron adds : “ The inscriptions on his monument are rather too long, and not required: his name was enough. France adored, and her enemies ad¬ mired ; both wept over him. Ilis funeral was attended by the generals and detachments from both armies.” It was in allusion to the last circum¬ stance that the words of the Imperial captain, in whose arms Bayard breathed his last under nearly similar circum¬ stances, were inscribed on the monu¬ ment: “ Je voudrais qu’il m’eut coute le quart de mon sang, et vous tinse cn sante, mon prisonnier ! quoique je sais quo l’Empereur mon maitre n’eut cn ses guerres plus rude ni fachcux ennemi.”— Memoires de Bayard. On another side of the monument were inscribed the words, “ Qui que tu sois, ami ou ennemi, de ce jeune heros respecte les cendres.” This injunction has not been exactly complied with. The monument ori¬ ginally stood at a little distance from its present position; but as it interfered with the line of fortifications, it was removed in 1819, along with the re¬ mains of the General, to the spot which they now occupy, where the tomb was I rebuilt at the command of King Wil¬ liam III. of Prussia, on its present site, \ hr.’s walk from the Moselle Bridge. 1. After passing under the works of the Fort Kaiser Franz , which the French commenced and called Fort Marceau, the railroad crosses the Mo¬ selle, a little above the old stone bridge , some distance above its confluence with the Ithine, and penetrating the walls reaches 0 / ^ a A .. v* '* r ? v ' w v —^ ‘••'*1^'' Coblenz Stat., from which little is seen of the town. The breaking up of the frost is some¬ times attended with danger to the town of Coblenz. In the spring of 1830 the ice on the Moselle came down while the Rhine was still frozen over; and being- forced on by the current, while there was no outlet for its discharge, was raised into vast heaps near the junction of the river, so as to overtop the stone bridge across the Moselle, and the quays along its banks. Indeed, but for these quays, then recently built, it is pro¬ bable some of the houses in the lower town would have been injured, as the icebergs were piled up against them to a height of 10 ft., and the boats moored in front of them were crushed by the weight. The water of the Moselle rose so high as to break over the tongue of land on its 1. bank, threatening de¬ struction to the village of Neuendorf, whose inhabitants took to flight; and it even floated np the Rhine on the top of the ice as far as Boppart! The fields between the 2 rivers were covered with ice, and all communication by the road cut off. The vast Palace of the Electors of Treves (now the King’s), the Govern¬ ment-house, and a long row of stately houses, hotels, &c., extending along the 1. bank of the Ithine, are conspi¬ cuous as the steamer reaches her moor¬ ings. Porters receive 2 S. gr. for every box, 1 S. gr. for every smaller package, from the steamer to the hotels ; 3 S. gr. to the midst of the town. 2^ 1. Coblenz Stat. — Inns: the * Giant (Riese), nearest to the landing- 278 HOUTE 37. —THE RHINE (c). COBLENZ. Sect, IV. place of the steamers, is good and moderate, frequented by English.; *H. 13cllevue, quiet; both excellent esta¬ blishments, both facing the Bhine: table-d’hote, with wine, 24 S. gr.; tea 10 S. gr.; br. 12 S. gr. ; beds 15 to 21 S. gr. Trierischer Hof (Poste), in the Square, good and quiet; Anker, next to the Giant, good. At Ehrenbrcitstein the White Horse (Zum Weissen Boss— Cheval Blanc) one of the best managed hotels on the Bliine. Moselle wines may be had good here. Coblenz is a strongly fortified town, the bulwark of Germany and Prussia on the side of France, on the 1. bank of the Bhine, and rt. of the Moselle (Germ. Mosel). The Bomans called it Con- fluentes, modernised into Coblenz, from its situation at the confluence of these 2 rivers. It is the capital of the Bhenish provinces of Prussia, and its population, including that of Ehrenbrcitstein and 5000 men in garrison, is 32,000. Fortifications, which occupied nearly 20 years to complete, defend the town on 279 Jxhen. Prussia, route 37 . —the Rhine (c). coblenz. the land side, extending from the 1. bank of the Rhine to the rt. of the Moselle. These are less important than the works round the town, external and de¬ tached—the Fort Kaiser Franz below it, on the 1. bank of the Moselle, which commands the approach from Cologne and Treves ; the forts Alex¬ ander and Constantine, above the town, on the site of the convent of the Chartreuse, command the roads to May- ence and that over the Hundsriick mountains; and lastly, the many- mouthed batteries of Ehrenbreitstein, with some important works on neigh¬ bouring- heights, sweep the stream of the Rhine and the road to Nassau. These vast defences form a fortified camp, capable of containing 100,000 men, and are unique in their way, com¬ bining the 2 systems of fortification of Carnot and Montalembert. The presence of the military and civil government, and of an extensive garrison; the situation of the town in the centre of the great highway up and down the Rhine, nearly equi-distant from Cologne and Maycnce, at the point of junction of the roads to Frank¬ furt and by Treves to Paris ; its vici¬ nity to the fashionable watering-place Ems; and the number of persons daily arriving and departing by coaches, car¬ riages, rail, and steamboats, render Coblenz a lively and bustling place, especially in summer. A walk round Coblenz , including the most interesting objects.— Start from the Rhine Bridge to the mouth of the Moselle, through the gate to sec St. Castor’s ch. and Fountain, thence to the Moselle Bridge, and through the town to the Lohr and Maycnce gates, massive specimens of modern military archi¬ tecture ; cross the drawbridge and ascend the Ivarthause for the view ; return by the Schloss-Platz. The Ch. of St. Castor, at the very confluence of the 2 rivers, distinguished by its 4 towers, and boasting of Louis the Pious (83G) for its original founder, in its actual structure dates from 1208, and is an early instance of the appear¬ ance of tire Lombard stvlc in the Rhenish [ : provinces. It was the place where the | grandsons of Charlemagne met (843) to | divide his vast empire into Germany, j France, and Italy. The exterior of the | choir dates from 1201; the nave and j transept from 1208 ; the vaulting from 1 1498. In 1830 the church was restored. On the 1. of the chancel stands the beau¬ tiful tomb of Cuno of Falkenstein, Archbp. of Treves (d. 1388); it is ornamented with a painting of the Crucifixion, attributed to the old Ger¬ man master, AYilliam of Cologne. 2 modern frescoes in the choir are by Scttegast. In 1 338 King Edward III. repaired | to Coblenz to meet the Emp. Lewis 1 of Bavaria, who installed him, in front ! of this church, Vicar of the Empire, in order that lie might secure the succour of the Crown-vassals on the 1. bank of the Rhine, to aid him in his designs | against France. In the square in front of St. Castor stands a Fountain , erected by the French in 1812, bearing an inscription to com¬ memorate their Invasion of Russia, affixed to it by the French Prefet of the Departement, at the time of Na¬ poleon’s expedition. This inscription had not stood many months before the Russians, pursuing the army of Na¬ poleon, arrived here on their way to Paris. Their commander, St. Priest, instead of erasing the obnoxious words, contented himself with the following- sarcastic addition, which remains to the present time: “Ah et approuve par nous, Commandant Russe dc laAhllc de Coblcncc, Janvier l cr , 1814.” The Liebfrauenkirche has early pointed arches and scalloped windows in the style of Cologne. It was originally built in 1259; the choir 1404-1431; the vaulting about 1500; the upper parts of the towers after the siege of 1688. The Moselle Bridge (b. 1344) com¬ mands a pleasing view up and down the river, and along the picturesque old buildings which line the quay. [ Below it, on the rt., rise the ancient 280 Sect. IV. ROUTE 37. —THE RHINE (c). COBLENZ. Town Hall , and the original Castle of the Electors of Treves, built 1280, now a manufactory of Japan ware. One of the first buildings on the 1. hand, after passing through the archway from the bridge, is the “ Stammhaus” (family house) of Prince Mettcrnich, the late Austrian Prime Minister, who was born in it. There arc many other seats of the ancient nobility of the empire, as that of the Princes von der Lcyen, Counts Bassenheim, Elz, &c. The Hos¬ pital is under the exemplary manage¬ ment of the “ Soeurs de la Charite.” The principal building in the New Town is the Palace, fitted up for the sum¬ mer residence of the King of Prussia. Its long facade extends along the Rhine, above the Bridge of Boats; its prin¬ cipal front is turned towards the Great Square, near which the parade is held between 12 and 1 o’clock, when the band plays. It was built by the last Elector of Treves, Clement Wenceslaus, Prince of Poland, Duke of Saxony, and uncle of Louis XVI., 1778-1788. The building was degraded by the French into barracks. The Service of the Church of England is performed in the beautiful Palace Chapel by an English clergyman twice every Sunday, by permission of the Queen of Prussia. The Palace of Justice contains the Law Courts, which arc open to the public. Justice is administered by judges in gowns, but without wigs, and by trial by jury. The assizes are held every 3 months. The Casino , or town club, is of chaste I architecture; it has an elegant ball- j room, good reading-rooms, and gardens. Close at hand is an ancient Convent of Jesuits , now the grammar-school, I The Cellars beneath it well deserve to be visited from their vast extent; they are so lofty and wide that a stage-coach loaded might easily drive round them. They belong to Mr. Antony Jordan, banker and wine-merchant here, and contain about 300 vats of the choicest | Rhine and Moselle wines, each equal to 7 ohms, or all together to about 400,000 bottles. A very agreeable sparkling wine is made from the grapes of the Rhine and Moselle; and the vines which grow under the very guns of Ehrcn- breitstein furnish, under skilful ma¬ nagement, a highly flavoured wine, which is no bad substitute for Cham¬ pagne. Coblenz is a free port, and carries on an active commerce up and down the 3 rivers, Rhine, Moselle, and Lahn, supplying the country around with colonial produce. From its vicinity to the wine districts it forms the na¬ tural staple place of the Rhine and Moselle wines, going down the river to Great Bi'itain, Holland, and other parts of the world. About a million jars of Seltzers and other mineral waters from the duchy of Nassau are shipped annually from hence. Com and the excellent iron of the neigh¬ bourhood are exported up the Moselle into France. The volcanic produc¬ tions of this country form very peculiar articles of trade; such are the lava itself, in the shape of millstones, and the ashes, or pumice-stone, ground to form Dutch tiras: these, as well as potter’s clay from the Moselle, bark from the forests of the Eifel and Huns- druck, and stoneware from the Sauer- land, a mountainous and poor district of Westphalia, N. of the Duchy of Nassau, arc much in request in Hol¬ land. No town on the Rhine surpasses Coblenz in the beauty of its situation: from whatever side you approach, by land or water, it presents a beautiful picture. The views from the centre of the bridge of boats, from the heights of Ehrenbreitstcin, of Pfaffendorf, or of the Chartreuse, arc all fine. The most interesting object in the vicinity, on account of its towering and majestic appearance, for the glorious view of the junction of the Rhine and Moselle, and of the course of the Rhine from Stolzenfels down to Andemach, which it commands, and for the vast extent of its fortifications, is the rock and fortress of liken. Prussia. ROUTE 37. THE RHINE (c). EHRENBREITSTE1N. 281 (rt.) Ehrenbreitstein (honour’s broad stone), the Gibraltar of the Rhine, connected with Coblenz by a bridge of boats. An order to see it must be ob¬ tained from the junior commandant (Thal-Ehrenbreitstein), at the foot of the fortress (fee 2|r S. gr.), which a valet-de-place will easily procure on presenting the passport. This fortress was, during the middle ages, the refuge and stronghold of the Electors of Treves, who, in later times, occupied the Palace at the foot of the rock, before the erection of their more princely residence on the opposite side of the Rhine. It was in vain besieged by the French in 1688, under Marshal Bouf- flers, notwithstanding the celebrated Vauban directed the works against it, and although Louis XIY. repaired hither in order to be the eye-witness of its surrender. Rut it fell into their hands in 1799, after a siege, in which the garrison was reduced to such ex¬ tremities from want of food, that a cat sold for 1 j florin, and horse-flesli rose to 30 kreutzers per pound. It was blown up by the French when they evacuated it after the peace of Lune- ville. ** Here Ehrenbreitstein, with her shatter’d wall Black with the miner’s blast upon her height, Yet shows of what she was, when shell and ball Rebounding idly on her strength did light : A tower of victory ! from w hence the llight Of baffled foes was watch’d along the plain; But Peace destroy’d what War could never blight, And laid those proud roofs bare to Summer’s rain, On which the iron shower for years had pour’d in vain.”—B yron. It has long ceased to be a ruin. Since 1814 the Prussians have spared no pains or cost in restoring it, and adding new works. Prussia devoted to the re-con¬ struction of this fortress 15 millions of frs., her share of the contribution which France was compelled to pay the Allies after the war: but 1,200,000/. have been expended on it by the Prussian govern¬ ment. The works on both sides of the Rhine at Coblenz, although they may be converted into a fortified camp holding 100,000 men, are so constructed as to be defensible by a garrison of 5000. The magazines are capable of containing provisions for 8000 men for 10 years. Ehrenbreitstein is defended by about 400 pieces of cannon. The escarped rocks, or steep slopes, on 3 sides, would bid defiance to almost any assault: its weak point is on the NAY. Here, however, art has done its utmost to repair a natural defect, and 3 lines of defences present themselves, one within another, which would require to be taken in succession before the enemy could enter in this direction. The great platform on the top of the rock, serving as a parade, covers vast arched cisterns, capable of holding a supply of water for 3 years, furnished by springs without the walls. There is, besides, a well, sunk 400 ft. deep in the rock, communicating with the Rhine: the Rhine water, however, is very un¬ wholesome from the quantity of vege¬ table matter decomposed in it. Those who reach Coblenz too late to get an order to see Ehrenbreitstein may content themselves with the view from the Pfaffendorfer Hohe (a hill on the same side of the Rhine), which is nearly as fine. (1.) Hill of the Chartreuse. — The view from Ehrenbreitstein is, perhaps, even surpassed by that from the heights of the Karthauserbcrg, on the 1. bank of the Rhine, about ^ m. above Coblenz. It is named from an old convent, re¬ moved to make way for Fort Constan¬ tine, standing on the lower slope of the hill, while Fort Alexander crowns its top. The stranger may walk round the forts. Ehrenbreitstein’s rock and citadel form the grandest feature of the view. By approaching the verge of the hill, on one side the Rhine is seen, with the fortified heights of Pfaf- fendorf beyond it, and on the other side the Moselle flows at the gazer’s feet. A platform halfway up, shaded with trees and furnished with seats, called “ Die Sclione Aussicht,” may satisfy those not strong a-foot. There arc so many interesting spots near Coblenz, to which Excursions may be made, that it deserves to be cliosen 282 E. 37. —THE MIINE (c). COBLENZ. EXCURSIONS. Sect. IV. as a halting-place for some days, (a.) To the Castle of Stolzenfels , 3 m. up, on tlio 1. bank of the Rhine, where is a station on the railroad to Mayence, Rte. 38; vehicles (einspanner, with one horse) may be found near the Mainzer Thor to take you there and back for one thaler—with 2 horses 1 th. 10 S. gr.: (6.) to the top of the Kuhkopf , the wooded hill, 1160 ft. high, rising S. of the Chartreuse, about 11 m. from Coblenz: (c.) to Lahnstein Stat., on the rt. bank of the Rhine, Ete. 38 : (d.) to Sayn, and the Abbey of Rom- mersdorf. Tours of a day may be made to the Abbey and Lake of Laach (Rte. 40) ; to the Castle of Liz (Rte. 41); to Neuwied, below Engcrs; to the Castle of Marksburg , Rte. 38—taking the train, or a carriage to Niedorspay, opposite Braubach (2 dollars), stopping to see Stolzenfels and Konigsstuhl. Cross the ferry at Niederspay, ascend to the Marksburg. The numerous forests around abound in game—roes, stags, wild boar, and even wolves. The preserves of the Duke of Nassau and Prince of Vied are richly stocked, but they are not known to be liberal in admitting foreigners to their shooting parties. The Rhine , above Coblenz. —Some of the finest scenery of the Rhine lies between Coblenz and Bingen. Its beauties are better seen from the steamer than from the railroads, which run up both banks. The voyage up to Bingen takes 4 hrs., 2 lirs. down; up the valley of the Moselle by carriage. Excursion from Coblenz to Ems, and the Castle of Nassau, 6 m. beyond it (see Rte. 95), by railway or carriage. Ascend the hill above Ems (ladies may mount a donkey): enjoy the view. Those who have a week to spare may make from Coblenz the tour of the beau¬ tiful Moselle to Treves (Rte. 41), return¬ ing by the river in the steamer (Rte. 42). N.B.—The Moselle steamer is liable to run aground in summer. They who cannot afford time to go all the way to Treves will find it worth their while to devote 1^ or 2 days to an excursion to the castle of Elz, and the village of Alf, situated on the Moselle, at a spot where its scenery is most beautiful, and to the Baths of Bertrich, returning by the Moselle ; and in this short space the traveller may enjoy some of the most beautiful scenery that river presents. (Rte. 42.) The Moselle Excursion of 1 day. By carriage or diligence in 3 hrs. to Miinster-Mayfeld ; thence 3 m. to Schloss Elz , one of the most picturesque and best preserved castles in Germany. The pedestrian may descend the valley of the Elz, often wading the stream, to Moselkorn, where it joins the Moselle, and descend that river by steamer (if the time suits), or in a punt, to Cobern and Coblenz. The young peasant girls in the coun¬ try around Coblenz wear before mar¬ riage a very elegant cap richly em¬ broidered, with a silver-gilt knife or stiletto stuck through their hair. First-rate physicians arc Dr. Soest, Dr. Baermann, and Dr. Ch. Yelten, who understand English. (For Fees see § 41.) The pharmacy of Mr. Mohr is excellent. Swimming Baths on the Rhine below the Boat Bridge belong to Government; on the Moselle, opposite the Crane, reached by ferry-boat. A bath costs 5 S. gr. Steamers on the Rhine several times a-day up to Maycnce and down to Cologne; up the Moselle daily (in summer) to Treves, in day, return¬ ing in 10 hrs. (Rte. 41.) Schnellposts (§ 50) to Treves. Railways to Cologne; to Bingen and Maycnce ;—to Ems, Lahnstein, Rudes- heim, and 'Wiesbaden, along the rt. bank of the Rhine. (Rte. 38.) Omnibus to Ems several times a-day. Droshies (cabs) are much cheaper than, carriages hired at the hotels. Rhen., Prussia. 283 * ROUTE 38. —RHINE (o). STOLZENFELS. ROUTE 38. THE RHINE (d). COBLENZ TO MAYENCE. RAILWAY OR STEAMER. Railways along Loth banks of the Rhine, 56 Eng. m. Steamers (5 or 6 daily) : up in 8 hrs., down in 5 hrs. 1. The Iikenish Railway along the 1. bank of the Rhine. 5 trains daily in 1A hr. to Bingerbruck ; to Maycnce in 3 hrs.; express in 2^ hrs. rt. The Nassau State Railway , from Coblenz and Lahnstein to Wiesbaden, along the rt. bank of the Rhine : 6 trains daily in 2 J to 3 hrs. Immediately above Coblenz the mountains close in upon the Rhine, which flows through a contracted gorge extending as far as Bingen. The dark shadows of the mountains, the nume¬ rous feudal castles in ruins, and walled and turreted towns, are the prominent features of its unrivalled scenery, the effect of which is heightened by his¬ torical associations and the charms of romance and chivalry. (1.) On (putting Coblenz the Left Bank Railway passes rt. under Fort Constantine. On the rt. bank rises another fort, crowning the heights of Pfaffendorf, above a village of that name. They have been fortified with as much care and expense as the citadel itself. The rly. rejoins the Rhine opposite the island Ohcrwerth, upon which stands the country-house of Count Pfaffcnhofen, formerly a nun¬ nery. The Nassau or Right Bank Railway, passing inside the Lohr and Maycnce gates, crosses the Rhine by a perma¬ nent bridge just above the Palace, to rt. Ilorcheim Stat.,the last Prussian village. (1.) Stolzenfels Stat., at Capellcn, a little village at the foot of the Stolzenfels, a castle, finely placed on a jutting rock overlooking the Rhine, and nearly opposite the confluence of the Lahn, 3 m. above Coblenz. Its picturesque outline and commanding position seem to justify its name of the Proud Rock , and render it one of the most imposing feudal castles on the Rhine. It is one of the numerous for¬ tresses built by the Archbishops of Treves, and was a favourite residence of several of those princely Prelates. 1 The Princess Isabella, sister of Henry i III. of England, and bride of the Emp. ! Frederick II., was lodged here with a splendid retinue in 1235. It was de¬ stroyed by the French in 1688, and had been abandoned to decay, until it was presented by the town of Coblenz to the present King of Prussia, while Crown Prince, by whom it has been restored at a cost of more than 50,000/. A carriage road has been formed, partly by bridging a ravine, up to the castle, 300 ft. above the Rhine, and is carried thence in zigzags to the top of the neighbouring hill. Pretty plantations and walks have been laid out around it. The view over the Rhine from castle and grounds is unsurpassed. The chapel is painted by E. Deger; the Rittersaal by Stilke, with frescoes re¬ presenting the knightly virtues and ac¬ complishments by scenes from history. 1. Courage : the death of the blind King John of Bohemia at the battle of Crecy, after having fastened his horse to those of two knights. 2. Fidelity: Herman von Siebcneiclien saves the Emp. Fred. Barbarossa, by exposing himself to the Guelph assas¬ sins, having compelled the Emperor to fly. 3. Love: the Empr. Fred. II. receives his bride Isabella Plantagenet, sister of Henry III, 4. Music : Philip 284 route 38. —the rhine (d). rhense. rraubach. Sect. IV. of Swabia and bis wife Irene sailing down the Rhine, surrounded by the most famous minstrels of their day. 5. Justice: Rudolph of Habsburg re¬ establishes general peace. 6. Persever¬ ance : Godfrey of Bouillon hangs up his arms in the Church of the Holy Sepul¬ chre. On the window side are St. Gereon, St. George, St. Maurice, and St. Reinhold. In another room is an ar¬ moury, where are preserved the swords of Tilly, Bliicher, Napoleon, Murat, &c. The King of Prussia received Queen Victoria here in 1845, and the apart¬ ments occupied by II.M. are osten¬ tatiously shown. The castle is often resorted to by the Coblenzers on account of its fine view. Near the Inns at the foot of the rock (Stolzenfels, Bellevue) donkeys swarm to convey the strangers up it. Both banks of the Lahn and the rt. bank of the Rhine, nearly all the way hence to Mayence, belong to Nassau. (rt.) Below the mouth of the Lahn stands the Church of St. John , built about 1100, but reduced to a ruin through a lawsuit about the liability of the titheowner to repair it, which lasted 40 years. The choir is square outside, but curved within: the sa¬ cristy has elliptical vaulting : a tower is raised very boldly upon columns: the great tower is the oldest. Beyond it is the village of Nieder-Lahnstcin, on the rt. bank of the Lahn. Here the Russians, under St. Priest, crossed the Rhine in 1814. Douquet’s Inn , at Lahnstein, is a good dining place, and its small court-yard commands fine views. There is a steam-ferry over the Rhine from Capellan to Oberlahnstein Stat.; a good carriage-road leads up its rt. bank to Ems (Rtc. 95), and a Railway along the 1. bank. (rt.) Above the mouth of the Lahn, on the top of a rock, are the ruins of the Castle of Lahneck, which gave rise to Gbthe’s verses ‘ Geister Grass/ It belongs to an Irish gentleman, and has been refitted. rt. Oberlahnstein (II. Weller; II. Lahneck), an old unaltered walled town, whose most conspicuous edifice is the red I Castle of the Electors of Mayencc, on the margin of the Rhine. Just Avithout its walls a little white chapel is visible among the trees; it is memorable as the spot where the Electors met to pronounce the deposition of the weak and indolent Emperor Wenceslaus, and to elect Rupert emperor in his stead (1400). 1. The railroad passes (1.) the Kiiniys- stuhl (King’s Seat), A\ r here the Electors used to meet to deliberate on affairs of the Empire. It is an open vaulted hall Avith 7 arches and 9 pillars, 1 being in the middle, and Avith 7 stone scats round the side for the 7 Electors. Here many treaties of peace were concluded, emperors dethroned and elected, and here the Emperor Maximilian appeared in person to take the oaths. It was alloAved to go to ruin under the French government, and Avas pulled doAvn 1807, but has been rebuilt in its original shape, and partly out of the old ma¬ terials (1843). This situation Avas selected from its vicinity to the ter¬ ritories of the 4 Rhenish Electors. The toAvn of Rhense belonged to the Elector of Cologne, Lahnstein to Mainz, Capellen and Stolzenfels to Treves, and Braubach to the Palatinate. Thus j each could repair to this spot, or retire from it into his own dominions, in a feAA r minutes’ time. The Rly. passes through the midst of (1.) Rhense (Inn , Zum Konigs- stuhl), one of the least altered toAvns on the Rhine; its timber houses, feAV of which are newer than the 16th cent., and some even of the 14th cent., retain entirely the mediaeval German aspect. (rt.) Braubach Stat., a small toAvn, with a Chateau, at the Avater-side (noAV turned into an Inn, zur Phillipsburg), stands at the foot of a high and almost conical rock, surmounted by the impos¬ ing Castle of Marksbury, an unaltered specimen of a stronghold of the middle ages, and on this account deserving of a visit. It is sometimes used as a prison, Ritterschloss, with mysterious narrow passages, winding stairs, vaults heAvn in the living rock, Avhicli served in former days as dungeons; among them the Rhen. Prussia. 285 ROUTE 38. -THE RHINE (d). BOPPART. horrible pit called Hundloch (Doghole), into which prisoners were let down, as a bucket into a well, by a windlass ; and above all, a chamber of torture (Folter- kainmer), whence the rack has been only lately removed. Here is shown the cell in which the Emp. Ilenry IV. was confined. A secret passage is said to pass down through the rock to a tower on the borders of the river. The view from the top of the Donjon keep (called AVimpel) will please the lover of the picturesque. Braubach is about 7 m. from Ems. A tolerable road connects the two places (Etc. 95). Just out of the town, at the roadside, is a delicious spring of mineral water, re¬ sembling that of Setters. (1.) Three small villages close toge¬ ther, called Mittelspay, Peterspay , and Oberspay. The Rhine here makes a very great bend, and docs not recover its former direction till Boppart is passed. (rt.) Ostcrspay Stat. 2 m. beyond Braubach, nearly opposite Oberspay, is a mineral spring called Dinkholder Brunnen. (rt.) Above the little village of Os- terspay rises the Castle of Liebeneck, with white walls. (1.) Boppart Stat., behind the town. (Lins: Post; RheinischerJIof; Spiegel), a very ancient walled town, with 3500 Inhab. and dark narrow streets, no better than lanes. It was the Homan Baudo- briga, and, like many other places upon the Rhine, it owed its origin to a castle built by Drusus, and the walls of this Castrum, an oblong square of Roman masonry, still exist in the heart of the town: the outer walls date from the middle ages. Boppart was made an Imperial city, and many Diets of the Empire were held in it. The Haupt- kirche, built about 1200, and distin¬ guished by its twin pointed spires j! united by a gallery like a bridge, is an interesting specimen of the Roman¬ esque style, with inside galleries over the aisles [inannerchdre], small round- headed arches, supported on twin co¬ lumns, and enclosed in larger ones: wall-plates with arches, some round, : some pointed. A door at the E. end, ' surmounted by 3 concentric arches of 1 peculiar arrangement, is worth the architect’s notice. The Carmeliterkirche contains a monument of the family von Elz,—rich specimens of sculpture of the 16th cent., but mutilated. Within the picturesque streets the antiquary and ' artist will find much to interest them, j The Tempelhof preserves the recollection of the Knights Templars of Boppart, who first mounted the breach at the storming of Ptolcmais in the 3rd Cru¬ sade. The large Convent of Marienbitrg, built 1738, behind Boppart, once a cotton-mill, afterwards a girls’ school, is now converted into a medical board- ing-liouso for the Water-cure. The Mlihlbad near the river is also a Water- cure. Excursions. —(a) The Miihlthal, run¬ ning up from the Rhine at Boppart, is i one of the prettiest of its lateral valleys, j (b) From the Fleckerts-hohe, 1663 ft. above the sea, 6 m. distant (1J m. on 1. : of the road over the Hundsriicken), a most extensive view, extending to the j 7 Mountains, but commanding only ! a glimpse of the Rhine. (c) From another eminence nearer Boppart 4 different glimpses are caught of the winding of the Rhine, hence called Tin Four Lakes. ( d) To Schloss Ehren- barg and the Moselle at Pundcrich, a walk of 9 m., requiring a guide, by the village of Buchholz. Before reaching Salzig (1.), famed for its cherry orchards, the mountains recede somewhat from the banks of the river, and give place to corn-fields and meadows. (rt.) Ivamp Stat. A little higher up than this village, immediately above the ancient Convent of Bornhofen (where is a 2-aislcd ch. exhibiting some bold construction), and opposite Salzig, rise the mouldering towers of the twin castles of Sternberg and Liebenstein, crowning the double summit of a lofty rock, covered with vines. They go by the name of the Brothers, and are inte¬ resting from their picturesqueness and the talc of their owners, two brothers, 286 R. 38.— THE RHIXE (d). ST. GOAR. GOARSItAtfSEtf. Sect. IV. who, having fallen in love with the same fair maid, became foes, settled their rivalry by the sword, and fell by each other’s hands. The castles belonged to the Electors of Treves. (rt.) Ehrcnthal , a hamlet occupied by miners, where arc silver and lead works. A little above this is Wel- mich , a small village at the foot of a mountain, surmounted by the ruined castle of Thurnberg or Kunoberg, built by Kuno v. Falkcnstein, the Archbp. of Treves (1363), called “the Mouse,” in contrast to “ the Cat” another castle above St. Goarshausen. The Mouse, however was generally the stronger of the two, so that the Cat trembled be¬ fore it. It is one of the most perfect castles on the Rhine; thlf wood-work alone is wanting; the walls arc entire. Fine view. (1.) Just before reaching the town of St. Goar the rly. skirts the base of the Fortress of Pheinfels, the most extensive ruin on the Rhine, 368 ft. above it. The original castle was built by a Count Diether of Katzenelnbogen (1245), as a stronghold where he could reside, and also exact toll, or, as we should say at present, levy transit duties, upon all merchandize passing up or down the Rhine. An attempt, however, on his part to increase these duties roused the indignation of his neighbours, and his castle was besieged in vain for 15 months by the burghers of the adjacent towns. This unsuccessful resistance gave rise in the latter part of the 13th cent, to the extensive confederacy of the Ger¬ man and Rhenish cities, to the number of 60, whose more numerous and for¬ midable armies reduced and dismantled not only the castle of Rheinfels, but also most of the other strongholds, or robber- nests, upon the Rhine. The castle after¬ wards came into the possession of the Landgrave of Hesse, who converted it into a modern fortress, with bastions and casemates. It was besieged in 1692 by an army of 24,000 French, under Mar¬ shal Tallard, who had promised the fortress as a new year’s gift to his master, Louis XIY.; but, through the brave defence of the Ilessian general Gortz, was compelled to break his word and draw off his forces. His example was not followed in 1794, when, though its works had been greatly strengthened, it was basely abandoned by the Hessian garrison, without firing a shot, on the first appearance of the revolutionary French army, by whom it was blown up, and rendered useless. There is no interest in the ruins, and the view is limited. Under Rheinfels lies the town of •'-/ / , < ' •• • (1.) St. Goar St at. — Inn, Zur Lilic (the Lily), good. St. Goar lies in the midst of the linest scenes of the Rhine ; it is, therefore, well placed for a day’s halt. The views in its vicinity are among the most picturesque in the whole course of the river, and the rocks which hem it in are peculiarly wild and precipitous. The castle of Rheinfels, magnificent in appearance, and interesting from its history, hardly rewards the trouble of the ascent by the view which it com¬ mands. The Protestant Ch ., near the centre of the town, of pleasing architecture, built 1468, contains monuments of Hessian Princes; it stands over the crypt of the old Ch. of St. Goar. In the Catholic Ch. of St. Goar is the rude imago of that holy hermit, who in the 7th cent, settled here to preach Christianity to the rude inhabitants, and who after¬ wards gave his name to the town. It is recorded that once, to prove his sanc¬ tity, he hung up his cloak on a sunbeam, to dry. His shrine, after his death, in 647, became a place of pilgrimage, and is still famed for working miracles, and his help is supposed to have rescued many a poor boatman who prayed to him from the perils of the Gewirr (a whirlpool in this part of the river), and the enchantments of the Nymph of the Lurlei. (rt.) The Nassau bank of the Rhine hereabouts also affords pleasant excur¬ sions and points of view. Boats are always ready at St. Goar to transport visitors across the river to rt. Goarshausen Stat. (/an, Adler— Aiglc; the steamers will set you down here). A neat little town at the water¬ side, near the opening of the so-called Swiss Yallcy, and surmounted by the very picturesque rt. Castle of the Cat (a contraction of ! i Men. Prussia, n. 38. —the rhire (t>). lurlei. orerwesel. 287 Katzenelnbogen, Cat’s Elbow, tbe name of its original possessors), from whom j it passed to the princely house of Ilesse, but the Elector abandoned the district in 180G to the French, and it is now private property. The view from it | is not inferior to that from the 1. bank. J Those who feel an ardour to climb still j higher may reach the brow of the | Lurlci, and gaze upon the Rhine from ! the brink of this lofty precipice. [At Goarshauscn mules may be hired to explore the pretty Schweitzer Thai (Swiss Valley), traversed by a limpid stream descending in numberless small cascades between precipitous walls of rock, and turning many water-mills, j Ascending it for 3 m. you reach the j ruined Castle of Reichenberg , one of i the most interesting in the vicinity of the Rhine, built 1284, ruined in 1802, but shortly after restored by Raid win of Treves in an Asiatic style, traces of which may he observed in the gateway. It was destroyed by Tilly in the 30 years’ war. Return by the village of Patersberg, whence by far the finest view of the Rheinfels is to bo obtained. It requires about 4 hr. to ascend to the summit of the Lurlci from St. Goars- liausen.] (rt.) A short way above St. Goar, but on the rt. bank, rises abruptly from I the water’s edge the bare, black, and perpendicular precipice called the Lur- lei. (1.) At the side of the high road, opposite this colossal cliff, is a grotto occupied by a man whose em¬ ployment it is to awaken by pistol or bugle, for the gratification of travellers, the remarkable Echo of the Lurlci, which is said to repeat sounds 15 times. 1 The aspect of the Lurlei from this j point is very grand. The German st.u- I dents amuse themselves by asking the echo, “ Who is the Burgomaster of Oberwesel?” Answer—“ Esel ” (the German for Ass) : a joke of which the burgomaster highly disapproves. There is a fishery of salmon in this part of 1 the-river. At the bend of the Rhine between j St. Goar and the Lurlci rock a whirl¬ pool (Wirbel) called the Gexdrr formerly existed, and above it a rapid called the Bank, formed by the stream dashing over a number of sunken rocks, now for the most part blown up. The passage of the large rafts which navigate the Rhino over this spot was thus rendered diffi¬ cult and dangerous; the crews were plunged up to their necks in water, and men have been washed overboard. The perils of this spot, taken in con¬ nection with the mysterious echo, no doubt gave birth to the superstition that the Lurlei was haunted by a beauteous hut wicked nymph or Syren, who dis¬ tracted and beguiled the passing boat¬ man with her magical voice only to overwhelm and drown him in the waves of the whirlpool. Above this, in the middle of the river, and visible when the water is low, are the rocks called the 7 Sisters (see below). 1. The Rly. train immediately above St. Goar enters a tunnel 1200 yards long, emerging from which a view is obtained of the Lurlei precipice, which is also traversed by a tunnel for the rt. bank railway. Two smaller tunnels are passed before reaching 1. Oberwesel.— Lins: Rheiniseher Ilof; — Trierischcr Hof; — Goldcncr Rfropfenziehcr (Golden Corkscrew— the sign painted by one of the Diis- seldorf artists, Schrodter). Oberwesel (the Vesalia of the Romans), a small town of 2300 Inhab., one of the most charming spots on the Rhine, is highly pictiucsque from its lofty round tower ( Ochsenthurm ) at the water-side, its many-turreted walls, and Gothic build¬ ings. Among the latter is the Ch. of our Lady (Liebfraucnkirche), outside the town at its upper end, and near the station, a simple but elegantly proportioned Gothic ch.; its roof is 80 ft. high, and rests on plain square piers (date 1338). It was consecrated in 1331. Its porches are richly sculptured, and the vaulting of the cloisters is singular. It contains 2 objects of mediaeval art well deserving of study. The rood-loft (Lettner) is a rich specimen of Gothic, resting on marble shafts, and having its arches on the side of the choir filled with elabo¬ rate tracery. The altarpiece, of carved wood, richly gilt and coloured, opening as a triptych, consists of a series of niches, filled with the figures of prophets, 28S ROUTE 38. —RHINE (d). GUTENFELS. PFALZ. Sect. IV. patriarchs, and saints; it is of the same age as the church, and is the perfection of elegance and delicacy. In a side chapel are many monuments of the Schomberg family, hearing rudely- carved effigies of knights in armour, ladies in stomachers and ruffs, and babies in swaddling clothes, like mum¬ mies or the larva? of insects. The older Ch. of St. Martin, with a large square tower and octagonal lan¬ tern, is also interesting from its ar¬ chitecture. In it is a Deposition from the Cross by Diepenbcck. In some period of the dark ages a hoy named Werner is said to have been | most impiously crucified and put to death by the Jews in this place. A similar story is told in many other parts of the world; even in England, at Gloucester and Lincoln (vide Chau¬ cer). It is probable that the whole was a fabrication, to serve as a pretext for persecuting the Jews and extorting money from them. A little Chapel , erected to the memory of this Werner, stands upon the walls of the town, close to the Bhine. (1.) Schonberg. This ruined castle on the rock was the cradle of an illus¬ trious family of the same name. The English Schombergs are a branch of it, and the hero of the Boyne, Marshal Schomberg, sprang from the same stock. It receives its name (Beautiful Hill), as the story goes, from 7 beau¬ teous daughters of the house, who by their charms turned the heads of half the young knights far and near; but were, at the same time, so hard-hearted that they would listen to the suits of none of them, and were therefore changed into 7 rocks, which are seen even to this day projecting out of the bed of the Bhine below Obcrwesel,whcn the water is low. (rt.) Gutenfels , a ruined castle above the town of Caub, traditionally (?) said | to be named after a fair lady called , Guda, who was beloved of Bichard of i Cornwall, Empr. of Germany, and bro- j ther of our Henry III. In the 30 ! years’ war Gustavus Adolphus directed an attack upon the Spaniards, posted on the opposite bank, from its battle¬ ments, but, after 6 days of unceasing hostilities, was unable to effect a pas¬ sage in the face of the wary General Spinola. The castle remained in habit¬ able condition down to 1807, when, owing to the expense of keeping it up, the roofs and wood-work were sold by auction, and the building converted into a ruin. (rt.) Caub Stat. ( Inns : Nassauer Hof; Griinewald) has slate-quarries under¬ ground, and is principaUy remarkable as the spot where Bluclier’s army crossed the Bhine on New Year’s Night, 1814, by means of a pontoon-bridge. It was from the heights above that the view of the Bhine first burst upon tlio Prussians, and drew forth one simul¬ taneous and exulting cry of triumph. “ To the Germans of every age this great river has been the object of an affection and reverence scarcely inferior to that with which an Egyptian con¬ templates the Nile, or the Indian his Ganges. When these brave bands, having achieved the rescue of their native soil, came in sight of this its ancient landmark, the burden of a hundred songs, they knelt and shouted The Rhine! the Rhine ! as with the heart and voice of one man. They that were behind rushed on, hearing the cry, in expectation of another battle.”— I. G. L. A toll was here paid, by all vessels navigating the Bhine, to the Duke of Nassau, the only chieftain remaining on the river -who exercised this feudal privilege down to 1861. In the middle ages no less than 32 different tolls were established on the Bhine. In the middle of the river, opposite Caub, rises the quaint castle called the Pfalz, built by the Empr. Lewis the Bavarian, previous to 1326, as a convenient toll-house; it now belongs to the Duke of Nassau. To this little island Louis le Debonnaire retired to die, worn out with the cares of empire, 840, “ desiring that a thatched lodge or leafy hut, such as had served him while hunt¬ ing in the forest, should be prepared.” Here, “lying on his couch, lulled by the soothing music of the gurgling waters,” he breathed his last.*— S. Ac- * See Palgrave’s eloquent History of Nor¬ mandy, 1851. liken. Prussia, route 38.— rhin cording to a popular tradition tire Pfalz served in former times as a place of refuge and security whither the Countesses Palatine repaired previous to their accouehements, which, were it true, would be a proof of the insecure life led by princes as well as peasants in the turbulent times of the middle ages. Such an occurrence may have actually taken place in a single instance, hut it is very unlikely that a rude toll¬ house should repeatedly have served as a princely abode. There are dungeons under it below the level of the river, in which state-prisoners of rank were once confined. The castle is accessible by means of a ladder, and the only entrance is closed by a portcullis (Fallthiir). The well which supplies it with water is filled from a source far deeper than the bed of the Rhine. (1.) Bacharach Stat. is at the side of the Rhine {Inn, Post), and is en¬ circled by antique walls, and defended by 12 towers, of strength in former days, of picturesque and ornamental appear¬ ance in the present. They are singular in their construction, having only 3 walls, the side towards the town being open, probably to prevent their com¬ manding the town in the event of an enemy gaining possession of them. The name, Bacharach, is only a slight al¬ teration of the words Baccki arci, the altar of Bacchus; a name conferred upon a rock in the bed of the river, ad¬ joining the island a little below the town, usually covered with water, hut in very dry seasons appearing above the surface. The sight of it is hailed with joy by the owner of the vineyard, who regards this as a sure sign of a fine vintage. As a proof of the goodness of the wine of this neighbourhood, we are told that Pope Pius II. (JEneas Silvius) used to import a tun of it to Romo every year ; and that the city of Nuremberg obtained its freedom in return for 4 casks of it, which her citizens presented annually to the Empr. Wenzel. Down to the 16th cent. Bacharach was, jointly with Co¬ logne, the staple place for the wines of the Rhine. (1.) The truncated walls of the old castle of Stahleck , till 1253 the seat of 3 (d). bacharach. lorcii. 289 ; the Electors Palatine, now the property of the Dowager Queen of Prussia, their descendant, crown the high hill behind Bacharach. Between them and the town stand the ruins of St. Werner’s Ch., an exquisite fragment of the florid Gothic style, built of hard red sand¬ stone in 1428. “ It was demolished by the Swedes in the Thirty Years’ War, but still shows in its E. end a lantern, the highest and most elegant lancet style existing.”— Hope. The body of the child Werner, fabled to have been thrown by the Jews, his | reputed murderers, into the Rhine at Oberwesel, instead of descending with the current, as all other bodies would have done, is reported to have ascended the stream as far as Bacharach, where it was taken up, interred, and afterwards canonized. To do honour to his relics, this beautiful chapel was built over them. An hour or two should be devoted by the traveller to Bacharach, to en¬ able him to enjoy the view from the castle of Stahleck, and to visit St. Werner’s chapel, and St. Peter’s Ch., just below St. Werner’s, and close to the road. It was “ formerly a Templar ch., and an early example of mixed Round and Gothic style, resembling the churches of Limburg and Neuss. (rt.) Lorchhausen is traversed by the railway. Two stone gallows near this formerly marked the boundary line which divided the ancient territory of Mainz from the Palatinate. A little higher up the river is the ruined castle of Nollingen. (1.) The round Keep-tower and shattered walls of Furstenburg rise above the village of Rheindiebach. The castle was reduced to a ruin by the French in the war of the Orleans suc¬ cession, 1689. (rt.) Lorch Stat. {Inn, Sell wan) is one of the oldest towns on the Rhine (Lau- rcacum ?), and is situated at the mouth of the picturesque valley of the Wis- per, on the rt. bank of which rises the rocky height called the Devil’s Ladder, whose top is occupied by the ruins of the castle of Nollingen. It was an¬ ciently inhabited by a knot of noble (knightly) families, many of whose 0 290 Sect. IV. ROUTE 38. —THE RHINE (f)). CASTLES. castellated mansions remain. Among them is the Burghaus of John Hilgen of Loreh, a contemporary of Franz of Sickengen, who fought against the Turks, date (1548). He is buried in the Ch., a handsome edifice of the 12th cent, (with more recent addi¬ tions), containing an elaborate altar- piece of carved wood. Before the ch. stands a carved stone cross (date 1491). Here commences the district called the Rheingau (district of the Ithinc), which extends upwards along the rt. bank as far as Walluf, and is remark¬ able as including all the most famous vineyards in which the best Bhenish wiues are produced. 1. The ruins of the castle of Ilcim- burg appear above the top of the houses of Nieder-Heimbach village, close on the shore. Higher up is the very pic¬ turesque turreted ruin of Sonneck ; it was originally a robber-castle, and de¬ stroyed as such by the Emperor Bu- dolph, 1282. It is now restored. The river, on approaching Bingen and Assmanshausen, is truly “ the cas¬ tellated Bhine.” 1. The castle of Beichenstein or Falkcnburg stands on the summit of a rocky spur of the hill, and a little farther up on the same bank is that of Bheinstein, on a pro¬ jecting crag which rises almost perpen¬ dicularly from the bank of the river. Not far beyond Falkcnburg, and be¬ tween the high road and the river, is the interesting Gothic Ch. of St. Clement , admirably restored from a state of ruin by the Prince Frederick of Prussia. Most of these residences of knightly highwaymen fell before the strong arm of the law in 1282, having been con¬ demned as robber strongholds. The forces of the League of the Bhine exe¬ cuted the sentence of the Diet of the Empire by storming and demolishing them, and thus put an end to the arbitrary exactions and predatory war¬ fare of their owners. At Trechtingshausen, under the ruins of Falkenburg is an iron-mine. The system of pillage which pre¬ vailed throughout Germany among the rulers of these almost inaccessible for¬ tresses, until the vigorous opposition of the towns on the borders of the Bhine put an end to it, is well illustrated by the following anecdote. An archbishop of Cologne, having built a castle, ap¬ pointed a seneschal to the command of it. The governor, previous to entering upon his office, applied to the bishop to know how and whence he was to maintain himself, no revenue having been assigned to him for that purpose. The prelate, by way of answer, merely desired him to observe that his castle stood close to the junction of 4 roads. A practice very similar to the arbitrary mode of levying tolls and custom duties adopted by these feudal tyrants pre¬ vailed up to the last century in our own country, in the black-mail exacted by the Highland chiefs and nobles from merchants on their way to and from the fail’s or markets of the north. f 1. The Castle of Bheinstein , one of these ruins, has been restored as far as possible to its original condition, but only to serve the peaceful purpose of a slimmer residence for Prince Frederick of Prussia. The interior has been fitted up as a knightly dwelling of the days of chivalry ; the walls hung with paint¬ ings ( Barer , Cranach, Holbein, Ilagen), and armour, the windows filled with painted glass, and the furniture either collected from ancient castles or con¬ vents, or made conformably to the fashions of former days. It is liberally shown to strangers, who are conducted round the castle by a domestic, who bears the ancient title of Schlossvogt. At the narrow pass below Bheinstein, which even now, after having been widened by French and Prussian engi¬ neers, leaves barely room for the road be¬ tween the rock and the river, there ex¬ isted till very recent times a Jew’s Toll, where certain fixed dues were levied upon all the Hebrews who passed. It is said that the contractors kept little dogs, who were trained to single out and seize the Jews from among the passing crowds! Wines and Vineyards of the Rhine. Opposite to Bheinstein is the village (rt.) of Assmannshausen Stat. {Inn, Hotel de l’Ancre), which has a warm mineral spring, and may be added to Rhen. Prussia, route 38 . —the Rhine (d). rhine wines. 291 the number of the Brunncn of Nassau by the construction of baths and ho¬ tels : it gives its name to a red wine of high reputation and price. The hills behind and around the hamlet which produce it are so very steep that it is only by artificial means, often by plant¬ ing the vines in baskets, that any soil can be retained around their roots. The ' vineyards are nothing more than a succession of terraces or steps, extend- J ing from the top to the bottom of the hills, some of which must be nearly j 1000 ft. high. In some places more than 20 terraces may be counted, rising i one above the other. They are sup- I ported by walls of masonry from 5 to , 10 ft. high, and the breadth of some of the ledges on which the vines grow is | not more than twice the height of the walls. To reach many of these narrow j plots, the vine-dressers, female as well as male, must scale the precipices, and hang as it were from the face of the , rocks, while a great deal of the soil itself and every particle of manure must be carried up on their shoulders. This will give some idea of the labours j and expense of such cultivation, and ; of the great value of every inch of ground in these narrow strips to re¬ pay it. The life of the Rheinland vine¬ dresser indeed presents a rare example of industry and perseverance. Though by no means rich, they are generally the proprietors of the vineyards which they cultivate; and though their ap¬ pearance does not altogether verify that ! which painters draw and poets describe, ! they at least exhibit an aspect of cheer- j fulness and intelligence. Independently of the hardness of the j labour of cultivating the vine, which i is not confined to any one season, J but must be earned on perseveringly through the whole year, and is most j severe during the heat of summer, the j vine is a delicate plant,—frost, rain, or ! hail may in a few hours annihilate the j produce upon which the cultivator dc- j pends solely for subsistence. One or j two successive seasons of failure will ! ruin even an opulent family; but when j the vintage is good, few of the small proprietors arc rich enough to be able j to wait until they can obtain a favour¬ able market, but must part with the wine soon after it is made to the rich speculators, who buy up the whole pro¬ duce of a district, and take the chance of its turning out good or bad. Beyond the point on which Ass- manshausen stands, the Rhine, whose course has hitherto been from S.E. to NAY., changes materially its di¬ rection, and flows from E. to AY., pursuing this direction from Mayence hither. From the advantageous exposure produced by this bend in the river arises the excellence of the Avines of the district of the Rheingau, as the rays of the midday sun, instead of being received obliquely, fall full butt upon the vineyards situated on the rt. bank of the river, and all the best wines are confined to that side. The slaty soil of the hills seems peculiarly fa¬ vourable for retaining the intense heat of the sun’s rays, so necessary for bring¬ ing the grape to perfect maturity ; and, in addition, this favoured portion of the valley of the Rhine is sheltered from N. and E. winds to a great ex¬ tent by the intervening barrier of mountains. The Rheingau is divided into the Upper and Lower Cantons (Gemar- kung), relatively to the position of the vineyards near the summits of the hills, or on the margin of the river: the high grounds produce the strongest wine, while that of the lower ground has an earthy taste; that which grows at a moderate height between the two extremes is considered the most whole¬ some, and the best ; though much depends on the season, which is some¬ times favourable to the produce of the heights, sometimes to that of the in¬ ferior slopes. Among the Rhine wines (improperly called Hock in England), the Johan- nisberg and Steinberg rank first, and on an equal footing, for their exquisite flavour and evanescent bouquet. Next folio av Riidesheim (Berg), Markobrun- ner, and Rotherbcrg, which possess much body and aroma. Ilochheim (which groAVS on the banks of the Maine, not in the Rheingau) ranks O 2 292 Sect. IV. ROUTE 38.— THE RHINE (u). EHRENFELS. with, the best of these second-class wines. Of the inferior wines, those of Erbach and Ilattenheim are the best. The lighter wines, however, are apt to he hard and rather acid, as table wines. The Lanbenheim and Nierstein, from the Palatinate above Mayence, and the delicately-flavoured Moselles, are much preferred to them as table wines in Germany. The best red Bhine wine is the Assmannshausen, produced from vines originally brought from Bur¬ gundy. The vine chiefly cultivated on the Bhine is called Biesling ; it yields a wine of fine flavour; the Orleans grape produces a strong-bodied wine. The vintage on the Bhine used to take place in the middle of October; but, by the present system, it is de¬ layed, in the best vineyards, till No¬ vember : in fact, it is put off to the last moment the grapes will hang on the bunches. To make the best wines, the grapes are sorted, and those only of the best quality employed. The riper bunches are first selected, and the rest loft to hang for days or weeks longer. The culture of the vine was intro¬ duced on the Bhine and Moselle by the Emperor Probus. The Bossel (rt.), a little tower stand¬ ing on the brink of the heights above Assmannshausen, and just discernible- from the river below, is situated within the verge of the Forest of Niederwald , and commands one of the most magni¬ ficent views upon the whole course of the Bhine. Assmannshausen is a good point from which to commence the as¬ cent of the Niederwald, though Bingen or Biidesheim, where the inns are bet¬ ter, should be made the head-quarters. We have now reached the upper limit of the gorge of the Bhine, com¬ mencing near Boppart, and affording so much grand scenery. Between Bin¬ gen and Boppart the Bhine cuts across a chain of mountains running nearly at right angles to the course of its stream. There are good grounds for supposing that at one time (before hu¬ man record) this range entirely stopped its further progress, damming up the waters behind them into a lake which extended as far as Basle, and whose existence is further proved by numerous freshwater deposits, shells, &c., to be found in the valley of the Bhine, above Mayence. Some vast convulsions, such as an earthquake, or perhaps even the force of the accumulated waters alone, must have burst through this moun¬ tain-wall, and made for the river the gorge or ravine by which it now obtains a free passage to the ocean. A species of dyke or wall of rock, running obliquely across the river at this spot, is perhaps a remnant of this colossal barrier. It is passable for ves¬ sels only at one spot, where a channel called Finger Loch (Hole of Bingen) has been cut through it by artificial means. The impediments occasioned by it in the navigation of the river have been reduced from time to time. In 1830-32 the Prussian government widened the passage from 20 to 210 ft. by blasting the sunken rocks in the bed of the Bhine. 1. A small monument by the road¬ side commemorates this; the pedestal of the obelisk is formed of the stones extracted from the bed of the river. rt. This navigable channel, 3 ft. deep, lies near the rjt bank, under the shattered walls of the castle of Ehren- fels , an ancient stronghold of the Arch¬ bishops of Mayence, built in 1210, to which they retired with their treasures in time of war and peril. It was stormed by Bernard of Saxe Weimar in the 30 years’ war, but was destroyed by the French, 1689. Sometimes when the river is low in autumn, a strong team of horses stands ready on the rt. bank to assist in drag¬ ging the steamer up the rapid by the aid of a tow-rope. Near to the 1. bank, surrounded by the river, and not far from the spot where the waters of the Nahe unite with those of the Bhine, rises the little square Mouse Tower , renowned for The Tradition of Bishop Hatto. The summer and autumn had been so wet, That in winter the corn was growing yet ; ’T was a piteous sight to see all around The grain lie rotting on the ground. 293 Rhen. Prussia, route 38 . —the rhine (d). mouse tower. Every day the starving poor Crowded around Bishop Hatto’s door, For he had a plentiful last year’s store ; And all the neighbourhood could tell His granaries were furnish’d well. At last Bishop Ilatto appointed a day To quiet the poor without delay : lie bade them to his great barn repair, And they should have food for the winter there. Rejoic’d at such tidings good to hear, The poor folk Hock’d from far and near; The great barn was full as it could hold Of women and children, and young and old. Then when he saw it could hold no more, Bishop Ilatto he made fast the door ; And while for mercy on Christ they call, He set lire to the barn, and burnt them all. “ I’ faith ’tis an excellent bonfire !” quoth he, “ And the country is greatly oblig'd to me, For ridding it, in these times forlorn, Of rats that only consume the corn.” So then to his palace returned he, And he sat down to supper merrily, And he slept that night like an innocent man ; But Bishop Ilatto never slept again. In the morning, as he enter’d the hall Where his picture hung against the wall, A sweat like death all o’er him came, For the rats had eaten it out of the frame. As he look’d there came a man from his farm; He had a countenance white with alarm. “ My Lord, I open’d your granaries this morn, And the rats iiad eaten all your corn.” Another came running presently, And he was pale as pale could be: “ Fly ! my lord bishop, fly,” quoth he f “ Ten thousand rats are coming this way; The Lord forgive you for yesterday l” “ I’ll go to my tower on the Rhine,” replied he, “ ’Tis the safest place in Germany ; The walls are high, and the shores are steep, And the stream is strong, and the water deep !” Bishop Ilatto fearfully hasten’d away, And he cross’d the Rhine without delay, And reach'd his tower, and barr’d with care All the windows, doors, and loopholes there. He laid him down, and clos’d his eyes ; But soon a scream made him arise. He started, and saw two eyes of flame On his pillow, from whence the screaming came. He listen’d and look’d : it was only the cat: But the bishop he grew more fearful for that; For she sat screaming, mad with fear At the army of rats that were drawing near. For they have swum over the river so deep, And they have climb’d the shores so steep, And now by thousands up they crawl To the holes and windows in the wall. Down on his knees the bishop fell, And faster and faster his beads did he tell, As louder and louder, drawing near, The saw of their teeth without he could hear. : And in at the windows, and in at the door, And through the walls by thousands they pour, And down through the ceiling and up through the floor, . From the right and the left, from behind and before, | From within and without, from above and below; And all at once to the bishop they go. They have whetted their teeth against the stones, And now they pick the bishop’s bones ; They gnaw’d the flesh from every limb, For they were sent to do judgment on him. Southey. Haying- given tlio romantic tradition, it is proper to add the prosaic history | of the little tower. It appears to have ! been built in the loth cent, by a Bishop j Siegfried (full 200 years after the death ! of Bishop Ilatto), along with the oppo¬ site castle of Ehrenfels, as a watch- tower and toll-house for collecting the duties upon all goods which passed the spot. The word maus is probably only an older form of mouth, duty or toll: and this name, together with the very un¬ popular object for which the tower was erected, perhaps gave rise to the do¬ lorous story of Bishop Ilatto and the rats. The tale, too, may have been fixed on Bp. Ilatto (originally Abbot of Fulda), because, though one of the most distinguished statesmen of his time, and the constant friend and councillor of the Empr. Otho the ; Great, he must have been remembered I for his cruel perfidy. He died 970. 1. Bingerbriick Stat. is close to the | mouth of the Nahe, near the stat. of i the Bhine-Nahe Ely. (leading to , Kreutznach, llte. 100), and in full view of the Maus-Tower. Steam-ferry from this to Budesheim. 1. The confluence of the Nahe and the Bhine. — Tacitus mentions the bridge of Drusus over the Nahe : the existing structure, erected 1011, and many times renewed, perhaps rests on ; Boman foundations. The Nahe di- | vides the territory of Prussia from that j of Hesse-Darmstadt. The Illy, crosses 1 the Nahe on an iron lattice bridge, 294 ROUTE 38. —RHINE (d). BINGEN. NIEDERWALD. Sect. IV. below the old stone bridge, and keeping along the side of the Rhine passes the town to Bingen Stat., under the Rochusberg. // 1. Bingen .— Inns: Victoria, close to the Rhine; Bellevue; Weisses Ross (White Horse), facing the river: in the town, Riese. The very interesting scenery in this neighbourhood is lost to those who merely pass up and down the river in a steamboat or railway train. Bingen has 7000 Inhab., many Jews, and considerable trade in wine. It was raised to great prosperity in the 14th cent, by certain Italian families of mer¬ chants, from Asti: the Ottini, Montesia, Broglio, Pomario, &c., who settled here. In the town itself there is not much to be seen. The ruin called Klopp , or Drusus’ Castle, above it, though not itself Roman, probably occupies the site of one of the forts built by Drusus. The ruins, now enclosed within a pri¬ vate garden, command a very interest¬ ing view. Entrance behind the Weisses Ross. From Bingen the traveller may ex¬ plore the Rochusberg, Rheinstein, and the Niederwald, in one day. A very pleasant excursion may be made up the Nahe to Kreuznach and Oberstein (Rte. 100). Railway to Kreuznach and Saarbriicken. 1. The white Chapel of St. Roch (Rochus Capelle) occupies the summit of the hill above Bingen, at whose foot stands Villa Landi, opposite Riide- sheim. The ascent to it takes half an hour—it may be made in a light carriage. There is a pleasant walk to it from Bingen, at first along the new x’oad on 1. bank of Nahe, and through woods whose shade is highly refreshing to one ascending a stiff hill on a hot day, to the summit of a knoll called Scharlachkopf, which commands an interesting view of the valley and windings of the lovely Nahe ; the ho¬ rizon is bounded by the Hundsruck mountains and the Mont Tonnerre (Donnersberg), while immediately under the spectator lie the bridges and town of Bingen. The slopes at the back of the hill have nearly the same exposure as the vineyards of the Rheingau, and produce a wine, the Scharlachbcrger, not much inferior to them. The chapel of St. Roch is easily reached from the Kopf. The terrace behind the chapel almost overhangs the Rhine and commands a prospect not only up, but down the river. The Sunday after 16th of August is St. Roch’s day, when many thousand- pilgrims assemble from all parts to pay their vows and offer their prayers to the saint, who is regarded as the averter of plague and pestilence. Gdthe has written a very pleasing description of one of these festivals. He presented to the chapel the altar-piece which deco¬ rates its interior. You may descend by a different road, overlooking the Rhine. l£ hour will suffice for this walk, which, instead of a single view, pre¬ sents a complete panorama of the sur¬ rounding country. The favourite excursion, however, from Bingen is to the heights above Riidesheim and Assmannshauscn, called the Niederwald , which may be made in 3 or 4 hours, but which well deserves to have half a day devoted to it. The following plan of the excursion, having been already tried, may be considered worth adopting by others. Take a boat (or the rly.) from Bingen, and descend the Rhine in 20 min. to the castle of Rheinstein. If you go on foot you will save a mile by cross¬ ing the Nalie at the ferry under the church, instead of going round by the stone bridge. After seeing the castle, cross the Rhine to Assmanns- hausen. This wine-producing village supports a troop of donkeys for the express purpose of transporting visitors to the top of the heights of the Nieder¬ wald. The charge for a donkey to Riidesheim is 1 fl. 15 kr. (22 S. gr.). Those who prefer walking may expe¬ rience some difficulty in finding their way among the numerous paths through the woods without a guide. After ascending the gully behind the village for about a mile, as far up as the vine grows, a path will be found to the right, which leads to the Jagd- Schloss , hunting seat of the Count Basscnheim, the proprietor of the Niederwald, where refreshments niay be had, This may be reached in | hr. Rhen. Prussia. ROUTE 38. —RHINE (d). rudesheim. 295 from Assmansliausen; 10 min. more | will bring you to the Bezauberte Hohle (magic cave). Within the space of a few feet, three vistas, cut through the trees, disclose three beautiful land¬ scapes of the Rhine, each different from the other, and having all the effect of a diorama. At no great distance from the cave is the Rossel, an artificial ruin, perched on the very verge of the precipice, which at a great height overlooks the black pools and turbulent eddies of the Bingerloch. The ruin of Ehrenfels appears half way down, hanging as it were to the face of the rock. The view is not surpassed by any in the whole course of the Rhine. “ One of the most remarkable features in it is the distinction in the stream of the river below of the waters of the Rhine in the centre (clear green), the Nahe, near the 1. bank (dirty brown), and the Maine, near the rt. bank (dirty red). The Maine joins the Rhine about 20 m. above Bingen, yet the three rivers do not mix, it is said, until they reach the deep pool of the Lurlei.”— P. From this point the path again dives into the wood, and at the end of about a mile emerges at rt. The Temple , a circular building supported on pillars, planted on the brow of the hill, which commands another and quite different prospect, extending up the Rhine and across to the hills of the Bergstrasse and Odenwald. The author of Pelham calls this “ one of the noblest landscapes on earth.” The agreeable shade of the beech and oak trees composing the forest of ' the Niederwaid completely excludes the ! sun, and renders this excursion doubly i pleasant in summer time. To descend to Rudesheim from the 1 Temple will not take more than half an hour by the path leading through the vineyards which produce the fa- i mous Rudesheim wine. Late in the ! autumn, when the grapes begin to , ripen, the direct path is closed up, and 1 a slight detour of an additional quarter of an hour must be made. ASCENT OF TIIE RHINE CONTINUED. rt. Rudesheim Stat. Inns: Darm- stadter Ilof; Krone; Rheinsticn. The excursion to the Niederwald, which is not more than a mile distant, may bo made from hence quite as well as from Assmannshausen. The traveller will generally find donkeys or mules ready saddled to convey him. Paths strike off from the Temple rt. to the Jagd Schloss, and 1. to the Rossel. At the upper end of the town rises a picturesque round tower, and at the lower extremity, close to the water’s edge, stands the Bromserburg , a singu¬ lar massive quadrangular castle of the year 1100, consisting of three vaulted stories, supported on walls varying be¬ tween 8 and 14 ft. in thickness. Though a ruin, it is carefully preserved from further decay, and several rooms have been neatly fitted up in it by its present owner, Count Ingelheim. The tall square tower adjoining it is called Roosenburg. Another castle, the Brom- serhof , near the middle of the town, was the family residence of the knightly race of Bromser, long since extinct. “ Tradition says that one of these knights, Bromser of Rudesheim, on repairing to Palestine, signalised him¬ self by destroying a dragon, which was the terror of the Christian army. No sooner had he accomplished it than he was taken prisoner by the Saracens; and while languishing in captivity he made a vow, that, if ever he returned to his castle of Rudesheim, he would de¬ vote his only daughter Gisela to the church. He arrived at length, a pil¬ grim, at his castle, and was met by his daughter, now grown into a lovely woman. Gisela loved, and was beloved by, a young knight from a neighbouring castle ; and she heard with consterna¬ tion her father’s vow. Her tears and entreaties could not change his pur¬ pose. He threatened her with his curse if she did not obey: and, in the midst of a violent storm, she precipi¬ tated herself from the tower of the castle into the Rhine below. A fisher¬ man found her corpse the next day in the river by the tower of Hatto : and the boatmen and vintagers at this day fancy they sometimes see the pale form of Gisela hovering about the ruined tower, and hear her voice mingling ! its lamentations with the mournful 296 whistlings of the wind.”— the Rhine. The Bromserhof is now turned into common dwelling-houses, and the anti¬ quities it contained are partly removed to Johannisberg. They consisted of old furniture, family pictures, &c., together with the chain which hound the knight Johann Bromser while a prisoner in Palestine. The best quality of the famed Rudes- heim Wine grows upon the terraces over¬ hanging the Khine, close to Ehrenfels. There is a tradition that Charlemagne, remarking from his residence at Ingel- keim that the snow disappeared sooner from these heights than elsewhere, and perceiving how favourable such a situa¬ tion would prove for vineyards, ordered vines to he brought hither from Bur¬ gundy and Orleans. The grapes are stilled called Orleans. Close behind the houses of Rildesheim grows a very good wine, called, from the position of the vineyard, Hinterhauser. 1. The Hessian - Ludwig Railroad from Bingen to Mayence runs away from the Rhine by Ingelheim (Rte. 98). rt. Railway —Rildesheim to Bibcrich, opposite Mayence, 16 J Eng. m. 5 trains daily, in less than 1 hr. (Opened 1856.) Those who wish to visit the Brunnen of Nassau, on their way cross over by the steam-ferry from Bin¬ gen to Rildesheim and take this more interesting road along the rt. bank of the Rhine. They should stop at Riides- heim to see the Niederwald (if they have not visited it before) ; at Jo¬ hannisberg to see the chateau and vineyard; at Hattenheim to see the old convent of Eberbach, 2 m. out of the road. If they are bound to Schlangenbad (Rte. 95), they may turn to the 1., away from the Rhine, at Eltville; if they are going to Wiesbaden they proceed on to Bieberich before they quit it; and if they wish to reach Castel and Mayence they continue by its side. Above the Niederwald and the Ro- chusberg the mountains subside into gentle slopes, and the taller ridges of i Tamms recede to a distance from the riyer. Although the succeeding dis- | trict appears tame in comparison with ! that already passed, when viewed from ' the river, yet, when seen from any of the heights which command the Rhein - gau, it will be found to possess beauties of a softer kind, combined with a rich¬ ness and cheerfulness which are well calculated to draw forth admiration. (rt.) Geisenheim (Inns: Schone Aus- sicht; Stadt Frankfurt), a town of 2400 Inhab., distinguished by the twin Gothic towers and spires of open work (b. 1839) of its old Church —in which is a monument to the Elector John Philip von Schonborn, 1675. There is another famous vineyard near this, upon the hill called the Rothenberg, which is much frequented on account of its fine view. The country seat of Baron Zwierlein contains a fine collection of stained glass from the commencement of the art to the present time ; and in his garden grow 500 varieties of the vine ! rt. Winked Stat. (Yini Celia, so called because Charlemagne’s wine-cellar was situated here) and Oestrich, 2 unim¬ portant villages. At Mittclheim, near Winkel, is a curious church, date 1140, with a nave and 2 aisles all under one roof, and with a portal built of white and grey stone, in a mixed style of Moorish and middle-Italian. rt. The very conspicuous white man¬ sion on the heights, at some little dis¬ tance from the river, is the Chateau of Johannisberg , the property of Prince Metternich, standing in the midst of the vineyards which produce the most famous of the Rhine wines. The house, built 1716, though seldom in¬ habited, was enlarged by its late owner, long prime minister of Austria. It is not remarkable, but the view from the balcony and terrace is very fine. In the Schlosskirche is a marble monument to P. Metternich’s tutor, Nic. Yoght. It is difficult to obtain admit¬ tance to the cellars : they are very ex¬ tensive. The first owners of the vineyard of Johannisberg were the monks: it was originally attached to the abbey and convent of St. John, afterwards secularised. In the beginning of the present cent, it belonged to the Prince of Orange ; but before it had been in his possession 3 years Napo¬ li. 38. —THE RHINE (d). RAILWAY. JOHANNISBERG. Sect. IV. Autumn near Rhen. Prussia. 297 ROUTE 38.— RHINE (u). JOHANNISBERG. Icon made over the vineyard as a gift to Marshal Kellermann. At the close of the war it again changed hands, and in 1816 was presented by the Empr. of Austria to Prince Metternich, to he held as an imperial fief. The ground around is too precious as a vineyard to he laid out in gardens : no trees are allowed, as they would deprive the vines of the sun’s rays; hut on the 1ST. side of the house there is a sort of wilderness planted with trees. The best wine grows close under the chateau, and indeed partly over the cellars. The species of vine cultivated here is the Riesling. The management of it at all seasons re¬ quires the most careful attention. The grapes are allowed to remain on the vines as long as they can hold together, and the vintage usually begins a fort¬ night later than anywhere else. The vine-grower is not satisfied with ripe¬ ness, the grape must verge to rotten¬ ness before it suits its purpose ; and al¬ though much is lost in quantity by this delay in gathering, it is considered that the wine gains thereby in strength and body. So precious are the grapes that those which fall are picked off the ground with a kind of fork made for the pur¬ pose. The extent of the vineyard is about 70 acres, and it is divided into small compartments, the produce of each of which is put into separate casks : even in the best years there is considerable difference in the value of different casks. Its produce amounts in good years to about 40 butts (called stficks), each of ohms, and has been valued at 80,000 fl. A cask of 1350 bottles has been valued as high as 2200 florins: the highest price ever paid was 18,000 fl. for 1350 bottles, or rather more than 1/. 2s. a bottle. The purchasers were, in moieties, George IV. and the King of Prussia. The wine is deposited in the cellars of the chateau in cask, but al¬ ways delivered in bottle, with the prince’s signet. In bad years the juice of the grape never goes into the cellars at all, but is forthwith sold off for what it may fetch. The Rhine here attains its greatest breadth, 2000 ft., spreading itself out to about double the width which it has below Riidesheim; at Cologne it is only 1300 ft. broad, and at Wesel only 1500 ft. In the middle of its channel are numerous small islands extending all the way up to Mayence. 5J Oestrich Stat. 7 TIattenheim Stat. rt. Count Schonborn’s chateau, Rei- chartshausen , a short distance below the village of Hattenheim (1000 Inliab.), contains an interesting collection of paintings, chiefly modern. Among them are a capital work of our own Wilkie, called 11 Guess my namea Holy Family, by Overdeck , in the cha¬ pel ; Telemaehus and Eucharis, by David ; the Dying Robbers, by A. Robert; Italian Peasants, P. Hess ; Raphael and the Fornarina, Picot ; &c. rt. A little higher up the river, upon the hill of Strahlenberg, grows the famous Markobrunner wine, so named from a small spring or fountain close to the high road, which here runs on the borders of the river. The nobles of the Rheingau, once so numerous, rich, and powerful, are greatly diminished in number and wealth. The chief of those ancient families still re¬ siding on its banks are the Counts Ingel- heim, Schonborn, and Elz; these, with Prince Metternich and the Duke of Nassau, possess the best vineyards on the Rhine. [(rt.) An excursion may he made either from TIattenheim (2J m.), or from Erbach (3 m.), (Inn, Engel), a small village, to the Cistercian Convent of Eberbach , once the most considerable monastic establishment on the Rhine. It is prettily situated at the foot of the hills, in a sheltered nook, nearly sur¬ rounded by woods, which, sweeping down the slopes, spread themselves like a mantle around it. It was founded by St. Bernard do Clairvaux in 1131. It is now the property of the Duke of Nassau, and is converted into a prison and lunatic asylum, for which it is well calculated by its vast extent. These establishments are exceedingly well managed, but they are not readily shown to strangers. More accessible and in¬ teresting to those who take pleasure in architecture are the Churches , very pure specimens of the Romanesque style, derived doubtless from Cologne. The o 3 298 R. 38. —THE RHINE (p). RAIL. STEINBERG. ELTVILLE. Sect. IV. oldest of these, a small building, sup¬ ported by 2 rows of slender columns, is probably part of the first foundation of St. Bernard, erected 1131. It is now occupied by wine-presses, and some of the best Ithine wines are made in it. The larger Church, Kloster Kirche, was built 1186: it is of severe architec¬ ture. There are many curious monu¬ ments, especially of the Katzenclnbo- gen and von Stein (do Lapide); one of a knight, “ amicus fidelis hujus monast.” MCCC.; also of Abbots and Archbishops of Mayence, Ger- lacb (1371), and Adolph II. von Nas¬ sau (1474). The long dormitory , in the pointed Gothic of the 14th cent, imposed on round work, and the Chapter-house of the 15th, also merit notice. The vaults under these buildings are used by the Duke of Nassau as cellars, to contain what he calls his Cabinet of Wines , comprising a collection of the choicest productions of the vineyards of the Itheingau. The celebrated Steinberg vineyard , once the property of the monks of Eber- hach, now of the Duke of Nassau, lies upon the slope of the hill, close to the convent. The wine produced from it is esteemed quite as much as Johannis- berg; and the culture of it is managed with even greater care and cost than that vineyard. It consists of about 100 valuable acres, enclosed within a ring fence : the high wall is passed in going to Hattenheim or Erbach. In the spring of 1836 half of the finest wines in the Duke’s cellars were sold by pub¬ lic auction. The cask which was con¬ sidered the best, the flower, or, as the Germans call it, the Bride (Braut) of the cellar, being cabinet Steinberger of 1822, was purchased for the enormous sum of 6100 fl. = about 500/., by Prince Emile of Hesse. It contained 3£ ohms, about 600 bottles; and the price was therefore equivalent to 165. 4 d. a bottle. From the Moss-house on the Boss , a neighbouring height, a view is obtained which the author of the Bubbles calls u the finest he had witnessed in this country.”] T. In the distance, on the top of the hill, nearly opposite, or on a line with Hattenheim, may be discerned Ingcl- heim, the favourite residence of Char¬ lemagne, now a poor village. (Bte. 98.) Charlemagne used to resort to the low islands in the middle of the Bliinc from Ingelheim to fish. Ilis unfortu¬ nate son Lewis, pursued by his own im¬ pious sons, ended his days (840) on one of them, a fugitive. rt. The large building between Er¬ bach and Eltville is the Draiscr Ilof, once an appendage to the convent of Eberbach. rt. Eltville Stat. (Alta villa) — Bins: Bheinbahn Hotel, at the stat.; Hirsch ; Engel—is the only town of the Bheingau. It has 2000 Inhab., is conspicuous from its situation, and picturesque from its Gothic towers. The lofty watch-tower surmounted hy 4 turrets, at the upper end of the town, is part of the castle built in the 14th cent. Here Gunther of Schwarz burg, besieged by his rival Charles IV., resigned the crown, 1349, and died, probably of poison. Around the town are many handsome villas and country-seats of the German noblesse. In that of Graf von Elz are some good pictures—a fine Domenichino , Susanna in the Bath. In the pretty valley be¬ hind Eltville lies the village of Kidrich, a place of pilgrimage, with a beautiful Gothic Chapel of St. Michael , huilt 1440, conspicuous for its turret open¬ work. In the Ch., St. Valentin, is curi¬ ous woodwork and original galleries coeval ivith the building. The tower of Scharfenstein, once the residence of the bishops of Mayence, rises above Kidrich. The Grdfenbcrg wine is pro¬ duced here. Omnibus twice a day from Eltville Stat. to Schlangenbad and Scliwal- bach. A bridle-path through the woods, 6 m. to Schlangenbad. rt. 12 Nieder-Walluff Stat. (Inn, Schwan). At the end of the 'W’all- daffthal, about 4 m. N.W., lies Bauen- thal, famous for its wine and its view. rt. Schicrstein Stat. is a village with more than 1300 Inhab. The Picture Gallery of Habel contains many works by the old masters. Here ends the Bhein¬ gau, “ the Bacchanalian Paradise,” Rlien. Prussia, r. 38. —the Rhine (d). biberich. mayence. 299 which, hounded by the Taunus hills on one side, and by the Rhine on the other, extends along the rt. hank of the river as far down as Lorch. It was given to the Abps. of Mainz hv a Carlovingian king, and was protected by a wall and ditch, some portion of which may still he seen near Biberich. A road turns off here to Schlangenbad, 8 m. (Rte. 95.) [rt. About 4 m. behind Schierstein is the village of Frauenstein , with ruined castle and enormous lime-tree.] 1. Mosbach Stat., close to the Duke of Nassau’s park. Passengers proceed to Wiesbaden direct, also to Frankfurt. | m. on rt., at the river’s side, is rt. Biberich (Inns: H. Bellevue ; H. de 1’Europe). The Chateau of the Duke of Nassau, of red sandstone, with a circular projection in the centre, is one of the handsomest palaces on the Rhine, though now somewhat dilapidated. The interior is remark¬ able only for the splendour and taste with which it is fitted up, and for the views up and down the Rhine. The gardens behind are of great extent and very pretty, and are liberally thrown open to the pub¬ lic. They are famous for their white and red chestnuts, and contain some fine ornamental timber. In the minia¬ ture castle of Mosbach, within their circuit, on the bank of a small artificial lake, a number of Roman antiquities are preserved. Biberich, united with Mosbach, now forms a considerable town, standing on the limits of the Duchy of Nassau. Above this, the rt. as well as the 1. bank of the Rhine belongs to Hesse- Darmstadt. English Ch. Service on Sundays in the Ducal chapel. Pas¬ sengers bound for Frankfurt or Wies¬ baden may disembark here, and take the train to Wiesbaden in 10 min., and to Frankfurt in 1- hr., saving thereby half an hour’s detour by the river and detention at Mayence. The train is drawn by horses along a short branch from Biberich to the main Taunus line. (Rte. 95.) The red towers of Maycnce (1.) now appear in sight, surrounded by fortifica¬ tions, connected by a bridge of boats over the Rhine with rt. The fortified suburb of Castel Junct. Stat. (Barth’s Inn, good; Tau¬ nus II., both close to the railway). Castel forms the tete de pont to 1. Mainz (Fr. Mayence). Inns: 1st class: *11/ d’Angleterre, very good suited to English travellers (Mr. Specht, the landlord, is recommended as althine- wine merchant) ; *Rheinischer Hof ; *Hollandischer Hof: these 3 hotels are on the Quay, facing the Rhine. 2nd class : Landsberg; Mainzer Hof. At Castel, on the rt. bank of the Rhine, near the Railway Stat., *Barth’s Taunus Ho¬ tel. The landing-places of the steamers of the Upper and Lower Rhine are nearly a mile apart from each other. Porterage: 6 kr. for a trunk under 501bs.; 9 kr. for one of greater weight; small parcels 3 kr. each. Florins and kreutzers here come into use (Sect. VIII.) ; but Prus¬ sian dollars are also current. Mayence, the Moguntiacum of the Ro¬ mans, belongs to the Grand Duke of Hesse-Darmstadt, and is the most con¬ siderable and important town in his dominions; but, as the chief and strong¬ est fortress of the German Confedera¬ tion, it is garrisoned by Prussian and Austrian troops in nearly equal num¬ bers, and is commanded by a governor elected alternately from either nation for a period of five years. It lies on the 1. bank of the Rhine, nearly opposite the junction of the Main. It has 42,000 Inhab., including a garrison of 5000 Austrians and 5000 Prussians, which is doubled in time of war. Upon the Quai, where the steamer stops, very near the English Ilof, are 4 large red buildings—the Kurfurstliche Schloss , or ancient Palace of the Electors of Mayence, now the Museum (see be¬ low) ; the Grossherzogliclie Schloss, ori¬ ginally Deutsches Haus (Teutonic House) —it was occupied by Napoleon I., and is now the occasional residence of the Grand Duke of Darmstadt and of Prince Louis, and has now become the palace of the governor of the fortress; an Austro-Prussian Barrack , a huge edi¬ fice, forming one side of the Schloss Platz ; and the Arsenal. The most remarkable objects in Mainz —the * Cathedral, a vast building of red sandstone, blocked up on all sides 300 Sect. IV. ROUTE 38. —THE RHINE (i)). MAINZ. DOM. but tlie E. by mean bouses, in tbe massive round-arched style, interest¬ ing for its great antiquity, having- been begun in the 10th and finished in the 11th cent. The building, however, has suffered so much at different times from conflagrations, from the Prussian bombardment of 1793, and afterwards (1813) from having been converted into a barrack and magazine by the French, that the only portion of the original structure remaining in a tolerably per¬ fect state is the E. apse, flanked by 2 cir¬ cular towers (978-1137). T he octagonal tower (Pfarrthurm) at the E. end has been surmounted with a cupola of cast- iron 70 ft. high, designed by Moller. This ch., as well as those of Worms, Treves, and Spire, has a double choir and high altars both at the E. and W. ends, and transepts. The W. choir dates from 1200—1239 : the side chapels on the N. side were added 1291, those on the S. 1332. The most beautiful of them, that of All Saints, containing a very fine window, was built 1317. The double chapel of St. Gothard, adjoining the N.W. transept, was built 1136. The interior, well restored and richly painted, 1864, at the cost of the citizens, is tilled with Monuments of Episcopal Electors of Mainz; the greater num¬ ber, placed upright against the piers and walls, are interesting illustrations of the progress and decay of the temporal | power of the German church. The Arch¬ bishops of Mainz had the right of plac- j ing the crown on the head of the Gcr- j man Emperors, and they are sometimes ! represented on their tombs in that act. j That of Archbp. Peter von Asfeldt (1305 j —1320) bears, in addition to his own effigy rudely carved, those of the Em¬ perors Henry VII., Louis the Bavarian, and John King of Bohemia, all of whom he had crowned ; but, while his figure is on a scale as large as life, theirs arc only half the size, and appear like children beside him: also Archbishop Siegfried v. Eppstein (1249) is crown¬ ing King William of Holland and Kaspo of Thuringia. The Egyptians in their sculpture resorted to the same method of giving importance to their chief personages, and Sesostris appears a giant among pigmies. The monuments best worth notice in point of art are the following, dating at the end of the 15th or beginning of the 16tli cent.: Prince Albert of Saxony, 1484; Canon Bernhard von Breidenbach, 1497, executed with great truth of ex¬ pression and most delicate finish; Archb. Bcrthold von Henneberg, 1504, still more pure in style; Archb. Jacob of Liebenstein (1508), and Uriel von Gemmingen. Among those of later date we may mention that of General Lamberg (1689), in a full-bottomed wig, being squeezed down into a sort of trunk by Death! Three other monu¬ ments deserve mention on account of the persons whose memories they re¬ cord. One is that of Fastrada, third wife of Charlemagne (794), by the side of the Beautiful Doorway leading into the cloisters (date 1397-1412), and has been restored. Another is the tomb of the Minstrel or Minnesanger Frauenlob, “Praise the Ladies,” so called from the complimentary charac¬ ter of his verse. His real name was Heinrich von Meissen. He was a canon of Mainz cathedral, and so great a fa¬ vourite of the fair sex, that his bier was supported to the grave by 8 ladies, who poured over it libations of wine at the same time that they bathed it with their tears. His monument, a plain red tombstone, stands against the wall of the cloisters. It bears his portrait in low relief, copied (1783) from the original, which was destroyed by the carelessness of some workmen. A more worthy monu¬ ment from Schwanthaler’s chisel was erected in 1843 to the “Ladies’ Min¬ strel,” by the ladies of Mayence. On the 1. side of the nave is a red sand¬ stone monument, erected 1357, to St. Boniface , the apostle of Germany, and first Archbp. of Mayence. He was an Englishman named Winfried, born at Crediton, in Devonshire, of noble and wealthy parents ; and became a monk in the Benedictine Abbey of Nutsall, near Winchester, in which, in the be¬ ginning of the 8th cent., he taught poetry, history, rhetoric, and the Holy Scriptures. He left his country, with 11 other monies, to preach the gospel to the barbarous nations of Germany ; in the course of his mission he converted 301 Rhen.Prus. k. 38 . —the Rhine (d). mainz. museum. more than 100,000 heathens ; his mis¬ sionary labours, interrupted only by 3 short visits to Rome, lasted more than 30 years, and extended from the Elbe to the Rhine, and from the Alps to the ocean. Observe also the Easter-Sepulchre, figures life-size, a fine specimen of me¬ dieval sculpture—the pulpit , a modern restoration; the figures of the apostles are copied from those by Peter Yischer at Nuremberg. An ancient font of lead, formerly gilt (1328), behind the eastern altar, and the brazen doors opening into the Market-place (called Speise Markt), on the N. side of the cathedral, also de¬ serve notice ; they were brought from the ruined Liebfrauenkirche, and are as old as the 10th cent. In 1135 Bp. Adalbert I. caused to be engraved on the upper valves of the doors an edict, by which he conferred various import¬ ant pi’ivileges upon the town in consi¬ deration of the aid which the citizens, his subjects, had afforded him, in res¬ cuing him out of the hands of the Em¬ peror. They procured his release from prison by seizing on the person of the Emperor, and detaining him as a host¬ age until their own sovereign was de¬ livered up. In the sacristy are preserved two very ancient chalices, probably of the 10th cent. ; one, the gift of Archbishop Willigis, is a curious sample of Byzan¬ tine art. The Elector of Mainz, who was also Archbishop, was premier prince of the German empire; he presided at Diets, and at the election of Emperor, where he exercised very powerful influence ; so that one Primate, Werner, on pro¬ posing a candidate, is reported to have added, “ I have others in my pocket.” ITis dominions comprehended 146 Ger¬ man square miles, with a population of 400,000 souls, and a revenue of l|r mil- i lion of florins. He maintained a body- ' guard of 2000 men and a squadron of hussars. The canons of the Cathedral, sup¬ ported by its enormous revenues, lived a jovial life, as may be gathered from the answer they returned to the Pope, who had reproved them for their worldly and luxurious habits : “We have more I wine than is needed for the mass, and not enough to turn our mills with.” Ihe Dom is open in the morning down to 11 *30, and from 2 to 6 p.m. St. Stephen’s Ch. (in the S.W. part of the town), built 1317, has a nave and 2 aisles of nearly equal height: the clois¬ ter is of the 15th cent. It contains some old paintings on gold grounds and numerous monuments. Its tower com¬ mands the best view of Mayence. If you ring the bell at the bottom, the kuster who lives above will let down the key in a slipper by a line, so that you can let yourself in. Museum , in the ancient Ivurfurstlichc Schloss (close to the Rhine, and at tho end of the long street called Die grosse Bleiche). The collections consist of, 1. Paintings , of no great excellence. Tho best works are,—Christ and the Four Penitents, David, the Magdalen, the Prodigal Son, and the Penitent Thief, by Otto Vennius; —A Carmelite Monk receiving the chess of his order from the Virgin, A. Caracci; —St. Francis receiving the Stigmata (five wounds), Guercino ; — Virgin and Child, Lo¬ renzo da Credi , the gem of the collec¬ tion ; — St. Apollonia, Domcnichino ; —St. Andrew and St. Ursula, by Lu¬ cas van Leyden , or some old German master.—The Life of the Virgin, by M. Grunewdld , is curious: also Adam and Eve, by Albert Diirer , but so much injured and painted over as to show few traces of the master. 2. An- tiquities , curious, because for the most part found in the neighbourhood, such as Roman altars, votive tablets, and in¬ scriptions bearing the names of the le¬ gions stationed on this spot; also several capitals of columns from the palace of Charlemagne at Ingelheim, in the style of Roman architecture, being, perhaps, the plunder of ancient buildings in Italy; some fragments of sculpture from the venerable Kaufhaus, pulled down with¬ out cause in 1805 ; and a model of the double stone bridge which Napoleon proposed to throw over the Rhine here. Tho Town Library is a very respectable collection (100,000 vols.), where are preserved some interesting specimens of the earliest printing, 1459-62. The Theatre is a handsome building 302 ROUTE 38. —MAINZ. TOWER OF DRUSUS. Sect. IV. designed by Holler, after the classical model of the theatres of the ancients, in which the outer form hears some relation to the interior. The Public Gardens (die neue Anlagen) outside the fortifications, on the S., be¬ yond the Neue Thor, and nearly oppo¬ site the mouth of the Main, are highly deserving of a visit, on account of the beautiful view they command of the junction of the Main and Rhine, of the town of Mayence, the fine rly. bridge, with passing trains, the vineyards of Hochheim, Wiesbaden with its golden pinnacles, the Rheingau, and the distant range of the Taunus. To add to the attractions of this spot, the ex¬ cellent military bands of the Austrian and Prussian regiments play here on Wednesday, between 4 and 8 p.m. There is a cafe at one extremity of the garden, forming the favourite evening- resort of the inhabitants in summer. The music of the Austrian and Prus¬ sian military bands may be heard also on parade almost every day in the week during summer. Another good view may be had from the top of the Tower of Drusus , an an¬ cient Roman structure, believed to be the tomb of Drusus, son-in-law of Au¬ gustus, and founder of Mayence, whose body was brought hither after his death, raised to his memory by the 2nd and 14th Legions, b.c. 9, 8, 7 (exer- citus honorarium tumulum excitavit— Sucton., Claud, i.). From mutila¬ tion or decay, its base is now reduced to smaller dimensions than the upper part, and it is vulgarly known by the name Eichelstein. All the external ma¬ sonry has long since been stripped off, and the passage for the staircase lead¬ ing to the top was drilled through the solid mass in 1689. It stands within the Citadel , but is readily shown by one of the soldiers. Excavations made in form¬ ing new fortifications have laid bare the foundations of the original Roman Castel~ lam Moguntiacum of Drusus, and show that it was an oblong square, with flank¬ ing towers, planted on the eminence overlooking the confluence of the Main. Mayence has been from very early times a frontier fortress. It owes its existence to the camp which Drusus pitched here, which he immediately afterwards converted into a permanent bulwark against the Germans. It soon became the most important of that chain of fortresses which he built along the Rhine, and which were the germs of most of the large towns now existing on that river. Though reduced from its former wealth and splendour by the fortunes of war, and still showing, in its irregular streets and shattered and trun¬ cated buildings, the effects of sieges and bombardments, it ought not to be regarded merely as a dull garrison town. Europe is indebted to this city for two things which have had the greatest influence in effecting human improvement—the liberation of trade from the exactions of the feudal aristo¬ cracy, and the Printing Press. It was a citizen of Mayence, Arnold von "Wal- boten, who first suggested the plan of freeing commerce from the oppression of the knightly highwaymen, with whose strongholds the whole Continent was overspread at the beginning of the 13tli cent., hy a confederation of cities which led to the formation of the Rhenish League, 1247. This same Walboten deserves to be held in grateful remembrance by every Rhine tourist; since many of the ruined castles which line its banks were re¬ duced to their present picturesque con¬ dition at his instigation, and under the energetic rule of the Emperor Rudolph of Habsburg, as being- the haunts and strongholds of tyranny and rapine. Mainz was the cradle of the art of Printing , and the birthplace and resi¬ dence of John Gensfleiscli, called Gutemberg, the discoverer or in¬ ventor of moveable types. In 1837 a bronze statue of Gutemberg , mo¬ delled by Thorwaldsen, and cast at Paris, was erected in the open space opposite the Theatre, by subscriptions from all parts of Europe. Gutem- berg’s house no longer exists ; hut upon its site stands the Civil Casino , a club or reading-room at the end of the Schuster Gasse, the members of which have erected a small statue of him. Gensfleisch (literally, goose-flesh) was born between 1393 and 1400, in the comer house between the Emmeran Rhenish Prussia. 303 ROUTE 39. —THE AHR VALLEY. Str. and the Pfandhaus Sti\, which still exists, and his first printing-office, from 1443 to 1450,'is the house called Hof zum J ungen, or Farberhof. A Statue of Schiller has been set up in the Schiller Platz (formerly Thier- markt), now comiected by a broad avenue with the height called Kastrich, opened out by the explosion of a powder magazine in 1857, and now covered with fine buildings. The English Church service is performed every Sunday by a clergyman licensed by the Pishop of London, in the Lycee, formerly Jesuits’ College. Near the village of Zahlbacli, about a mile beyond the Gauthor, on the rt., are considerable remains of a Roman aqueduct nearly 3000 ft. long, which conveyed water to supply the garri¬ son from a spring 5 miles off; 62 piers, some 30 ft. high, remain, but it is said to have originally consisted of 500. In a grove near these piers some Homan tombstones mark the site of a cemetery. Mayence carries on a great trade in corn brought out of Bavaria and Central Germany, and shipped down the Rhine ; also in timber. Very good and cheap furniture is made here. Excellent Hochheimer and Rhine trine may be procured at the house of Hoff¬ man. A bridge of boats, 1666 ft. long, over the Rhine, unites Mainz to Cassel, or Castcl (Castellum Drusi), a busy and flourishing faubourg, strongly fortified as a tete de pont. At the extremity of the bridge a bomb-proof block-house serves in time of peace as a barrack; but in case of war the roof can be re¬ moved, and the upper platform mounted with cannon. There is a heavy toll for carriages passing the bridge. A permanent Railway-bridge was thrown across the Rhine 1862, to con¬ vey across the line to Darmstadt and Aschaffenburg, to the tongue of land called Mainspitz. It is 1212 ft. long, and cost 3 million florins. Railway to Frankfurt in 1 hr. to Wiesbaden by Bibcrich in 16 min.; Stat. at Castel on rt. bank of the Rhine (Rte. 99);—to Mannheim and Heidelberg, by Worms and Speier;— to Forbach and Paris (Rte. 101) ;— to Bingen, Coblenz, and Cologne; to Darmstadt and Aschaffenburg. Station for all these trains on the Rhine Quai, at the upper end of the town. The excursions to be made from Ma¬ yence are,—to Frankfurt by railway ; to Wiesbaden ditto (6 m.), visiting the Chateau and Garden of Biebrich on the way. (Rte. 99.) To Worms: Cathedral, and Luther’s Monument. Steamboats go from Mayence several times a day to Coblenz and Cologne, twice a day to Mannheim during summer (see Rte. 102). N.B. 5 hrs. to Mann¬ heim instead of 2 hrs. by rly. ROUTE 39. TIIE AHR VALLEY.—REMAGEN TO AlIR- WEILER AND ALTENAHR. To Alirweiler, 9 m.l Dil. several times Altenahr, 1\ m.J a day in 3 hrs. From Sinzig on the Rhine. Diligence to Alirweiler. The scenery of the Ahr valley, be¬ tween Ahrweiler and Altenahr, is by many esteemed equal in beauty to that of the Rhine. By means of excellent roads it may be explored with the ut¬ most ease and convenience. A carriage may be hired at the Preus- sischer Hof in Remagen, with 2 horses, to Altenahr and back, for 4^ to 5 that., tolls and driver included. A passenger leaving the railway or steamer at Remagen, after seeing the 304 ROUTE 39. —THE AHR VALLEY. AIIRWEILER. church on the Apollinarisberg may Avalk over the shoulder of the hill, and join the carriage-road at Heppingen, 4 ^ m. The road on the 1. hank of the Rhine as far as Remagen is described Rte. 37. Between Remagen and Sinzig the Ahr in summer often chics up to a mere thread, but, swelling in winter to a furious torrent, enters the Rhine. A carriage road, turning off abruptly at the bridge of Sinzig, ascends the valley along the 1. bank of the stream, passing- through Bodenclorf and Lohrsdorf; and under the basalt-capped hill of Lands- hrone. The ruined walls on its sum¬ mit are those of a castle, built 1205 by Philip of ITohenstaufen during the war between him and Otho of Brunswick for the Imperial crown, 1198-1208. It was destroyed by the French 1689 ; only its chapel escaped, partially built over a cave lined with basaltic columns, which serves as sa¬ cristy. There is a good view from this hill of the winding of the Ahr. Near Wadenheim, between Heppingen and Ahrweiler, a warm mineral spring has been discovered, re¬ sembling those of Ems and "Vichy, and baths ( Bad-Neuenahr , a large hotel) have been erected on the opposite bank of the Ahr. The waters are very effi¬ cacious in diseases of the lungs, gout, and scrofula. The Hotel and Bath Establishment are well provided for the wants of invalids. Dr. R. Schmitz is physician here. 1000 visitors already resort hither in one season. 1000 ft. above the baths rises the ruined Castle of Neuenahr. Ahrweiler is 2L m. from this. Below Ahrweiler the valley is tame and open, though rich and well cultivated. 9 m. Ahrweiler {Inns: Krone; Stern), a cheerful town of 2500 Inh'ab., whose chief occupation and wealth are derived from their vineyards, which cover the slopes of the valley. The situation is pretty; it is still surrounded by old walls, and is approached by 4 gates. The church is a beautiful Gothic edifice, Avith a triple choir (date 1245-74). The town was burnt by the soldiers of Turenne, 1646, and suffered again from Sect. IV. j the French in 1688. The picturesque Calvarienberg , on the opposite side of the Ahr, is an Ursuline nunnery, and occupied by sisters from Montjoie, who keep a ladies’ school {fine view). The gate tower at the entrance of the town from Walporzheim is a picturesque object, well preserved externally. At Walporzheim, the 'first village traversed by the road after leaving- ! Ahrweiler, the Burgundy grape is cul¬ tivated, and produces a strong red wine, which is highly prized.—Ahrbleichart {i. e. Bleich-roth, pale-red). Here the valley contracts, and is hemmed in by rocky cliffs, and the wild and beautiful scenery begins. Above the road rise singularly formed, jagged precipices, 200 feet high, from which an isolated block, called die bante Kuh , projects over the road. At Marienthal, to the rt. of the road, are the ruins of a convent. A footpath leads over the hills from behind the village of Dernau to Altenahr ; the carriage road, now continued uninterruptedly along the 1. bank of the Ahr, passes in sight of the picturesque village of Bech, and under a rock crowned by the ruined castle of Saffenburg, to Maischoss. The heights above Rech command beautiful views. They are crossed by a road to Kcsseling. The patient toil exerted in cultivating the vine on every accessible shelf of rock up the declivities of the hills around is not surpassed in the most valuable vine¬ yards on the Rhine. Here and at Lochmuhle is the principal fishery of Biimpchen (minnows), the Cyprinus phoxinus of naturalists, which are taken in baskets placed in weirs or dams of the river. They should not exceed an inch in length, and, having been boiled in salt water, arc packed in baskets made of willow bark, which imparts to them the bitter flavour for which they are esteemed. The Ahr is also celebrated for its crawfish and trout, which, how¬ ever, are taken chiefly in its tributary streams. Beyond Lochmuhle the road avoids a bend of the river by a cutting, 40 ft. deep, through the rock (granwacko). Before reaching Altenahr n most striking scene opens out: precipices Rhenish Prussia, route 39. THE AHR VALLEY. ALTENAHE. 305 of slate-rock rise to a height of 350 ft., partly wooded, partly covered with vines, and on their highest peak are perched the ruins of the Castle of Alt- enahr , the finest object in the whole valley. A footpath strikes off to the rt. above Reimerzhofen, and leads through vine¬ yards to the Cross , f m. walk, 350 ft. above the Ahr, the best point of view in the valley, whence the castle is well seen. A path on the opposite slope leads up to the castle, or down into Altenahr. The traveller should send on his carriage from, this to Altenahr, and walk up to the cross. hT.B. During the vintage, Sept, and part of Oct., this path is shut. The precipitous rock, crowned by the castle, seems to deny all passage up the valley; the river sweeps round its base, and forms so complete a curve, that, after a course of a mile and a half, it almost returns to the same point. 74 m. Altenahr (Tims: Ulrich’s, at the entrance of the town, and Caspari’s are good and clean) is a village of 400 Inhab. Ascend to the ruined Castle of Altenahr , above the town; the view will richly reward the trouble of the ascent. The traveller should then ascend the hill on the W. side of the valley, be¬ yond the bridge of Altenahr, in order to command a full prospect of the wind¬ ing course of the Ahr ; the path, how¬ ever, is steep. Travellers having come to Altenahr in a carnage, or being unable to walk, will retrace their steps to the Rhine. A moderately good walker may cross the hills by a bridle-road, which, by the directions given below, he can easily find without a guide, provided he can speak a little German, from the vale of the Ahr to the abbey of Laach (7 stunden=20 miles) (Rte. 40), whence he should return to the Rhine through the pretty valley of Brohl, which ought not to be missed. The carriage road from Altenahr up the valley proceeds by way of Alten- burg, situated under a singular isolated rock, formerly crowned by a castle of the lords of the Ahr. The castle of Kreuzbcrg, with the village of the same name, presents a striking point of view, and the church of Putzfold, perched up in the rocks, with a singu¬ larly high steeple, is also very pictur¬ esque. The road continues through Brack and Honningen to 6 m. Diimpelfeld, where the road leaves the Ahr, and the traveller pro¬ ceeding to Treves quits that river. 2| Adenau (Am, Halbcr-Mond), a town of 1200 Inhab., on one of the tri¬ butaries of the Ahr, under the two high¬ est hills of the Eifcl, both capped with basalt—the Hohe-Acht, 2434 ft., and the Niirberg, 2118 ft. About 4 m. dis¬ tant are the ruins of the castle of Niir- berg, the finest and most extensive feudal stronghold in the Eifel. From hence the traveller may find his way to Mayen (Rte. 40), passing another old castle, Vimeburg , whose lords in ancient days, besides other possessions, were the pro¬ prietors of 23 villages. The carriage-road to Laach (104 m.), and Andcrnach (15 m.) crosses the shoulder of the IIohe-Acht bv Kalten- born (3 m.), Leembach (3 m.), and Kempenicli (3 m.). A carriage from Adenau costs 7 thalers. 306 ROUTE 40. —THE LOWER EIFEL. lake of laacii. Sect. IV. ROUTE 40. TI1E LOWER EIFEL.—•BROIIL ON THE RHINE TO THE LAKE OF LAACII, MAYEN, AND LuTZERATII. Tonnisstein, 4^ m. Wassenach, 2fm. Abbey of Laach, 3 m. Niedermendig, 3 m. [Mayen, 3 m.] or Andernach, 10 m. This tour may be made in a car¬ riage from Andernach in 5| hrs. The traveller may leave the Rhine at Brohl or Andernach (see Etc. 37). If he starts from Brohl (where Nunn’s inn is good), a cross-road, but cal¬ culated for light carriages, ascends the beautiful valley of Brohl, passing in succession Nippes, a hamlet named from the Dutch Nieuwe Huis, the paper-mill and trim garden, the Trass mills and quarries. The nature of the tufa rock composing this valley is described under the head of Brohl in Rte. 37. It lines the valley in cliffs, rising 20 to 50 ft., and resembles the spongy texture of pumice. The quarries formed for extracting it are driven into the rock in open galleries, supported by pillars of rock, draped with ivy and other shrubs. The Castle of Schweppenburg , once belonging to the counts of Mettcrnich, rises on a knoll in the midst of the valley. Numerous jets of carbonic gas issue out of the rocks, and impregnate the water of the springs which feed the Brolilbach. One of these is 4^ m. The spring of Tonnisstein, whose agreeable mineral water re¬ sembles those of Selters, but is more effervescent. Mixed with Rhenish wine and sugar it is very palatable. Some of these springs have been in¬ geniously collected by the owner of a chemical manufactory, and are em¬ ployed in his works. Before reaching Tonnisstein the road to Laach turns out of the Brohlthal, diverging 1. into a winding side valley, whose scenery is very pleasing, as far as 2 i m. Wassenach, a small village lying at the foot of the hills, whose interior includes the lake of Laach, and having an humble inn, Laaclier Hof, where pike from the lake may generally be had. A continued ascent of about 1 m. from the village leads to the margin of the Laaclier See , a very singular lake, of a neai'ly circular form, supposed to occupy the crater of an extinct volcano, and nearly resem¬ bling the crater lake of Bolscna, in Italy. It lies 666 ft. above the Rhine, is about If m. long, and about If broad, its area being 1300 acres. The depth is great, increasing towards the centre, where a plumb-line sinks to 214 ft. There is a popular notion similar to that attached to the lake Avernus, in Italy, that no bird can fly over the Laachcr See, in oonsequence of the poi¬ sonous vapours arising from it. This belief seems to have originated from the circumstance that a jet of carbonic acid gas issues from a scarcely percept¬ ible opening on the N. E. side of the lake. It is the only remaining symp¬ tom of the volcanic action once so powerful in this district. Bodies of birds, squirrels, bats, toads, &c., have been found in a pit near this jet, killed by the noxious vapours, which resemble those of the Grotto del Cane, in Italy. The Laachcr See is fed by numerous springs below the surface, which keep Rhenish Prussia, e. 40. —the lower eifel. hieder-mendig. 307 its basin constantly filled. It lias no natural outlet ; but the superfluous waters are carried off through a subter¬ raneous canal or emissary , nearly 1 m. long, cut by the monies in the 12th century, after an inundation which threatened to overwhelm the abbey. The appearance of the deep blue lake, hemmed in on all sides by a ridge of hills completely covered with luxuriant wood down to the water’s edge, is ex¬ ceedingly imposing as well as singular. On a near examination its banks will be found to be scattered over with masses of scoriae, cinders, ashes, and pumice, and other volcanic products. At the opposite extremity, in a quiet secluded nook, shut out as it were from the whole world, lies the deserted 3 m. Abbey of Laach, a picturesque object, with its 5 towers. It was ori¬ ginally a very wealthy Benedictine Convent with more than 200 chambers. There were 52 monks at the time of its suppression by the French. Its revenue having been sequestrated at the time of the French Be volution, it was sold, together with the lake and woods adjoining, for only 40,000 thalers. Since 1863 it has become the property of the Jesuits by purchase ; they have established a clerical seminary in it. The Church , a Bomanesque building complete in plan, with a choir at both E. and W. ends, apsidal terminations, surmounted by 5 towers and a dome, was built between 1093 and 1156. It is entered at the W. end through a cloister, The tomb of the founder, Pfalzgraf Henry II., stands at the W. end, sur¬ mounted by his effigy in wood. He is represented in his princely mantle and hat, and bearing in his hand the model of the ch. There is a small Inn in the abbey close, which will fur¬ nish refreshments, and provide 2 or 3 bed-rooms. There is a picturesque view of the abbey and lake from the hill about ^ mile on the road to Mayen on the first ascent from the shore of the lake. The traveller may return to the Bhine by way of Wasscnach to Andernach along a tolerably good carriage road, a drive of about 24 h.; but if he has time, from Klostcr Laach ho should visit the great Millstone quarries of Nieder-Mendig , 3 m. S.E. of the abbey, which have been worked, it is supposed, for 2000 years. The hard porous lava, which was probably a stream from one of the neighbouring volcanoes,extending near¬ ly 5 m. in length by 3 in breadth, has here been hollowed out by the quarriers into funnel-shaped pits, from the bottom of which spacious subterraneous caverns ramify, deserving by all means to be explored. The lava separates into gigantic columns from 15 to 40 ft. high, by natural seams or fissures, and some of them are left to support the roof The small additional expense of torches to light up these caverns will be well repaid. Their temperature is icy cold. From Mendig (where there is no good inn) the traveller may return to the banks of the Bhine at Andernach (6 m.) by a bad road. There are, however, many other objects of interest, both for the lover of the picturesque and for the geologist, in this district. About 2 m. S. W. of Laach arc the cave-like excavations of Bell, whence oven-stone (pierre au four) is obtained. The direct road from Mendig to Cob¬ lenz (14 m.) passes the Ch. of St. Genovefa. A tolerable road leads from Mendig to Mayen, along the banks of the Nctte, passing the interesting and well-pre¬ served * Castle of Burresheim , retaining much old furniture, tapestries, &c., under the Iloch Simmer, a volcanic mountain. There are many other fine old ruined castles in the Eifel, as Vir- neburg, Olbriick, a noble ancient for¬ tress: its donjon measures 45 ft. by 30 at its base, and it has a tower 170 feet high. Werncrseck and Manderschcid (Btc. 45) are two more remarkable castles. 3 m. Mayen {Inns : Muller’s; Post; Stern) is a picturesque and ancient town, 6 m. from Laach, through Bell and Ettringen, with a castle surrounded by walls and gardens. There are many j millstone quarries near it. Schnellpost I twice daily to Coblenz in 3 hrs. 308 ROUTE 41. —COBLENZ TO TREVES. Sect. IV. From Mayen the traveller has the choice of the following routes :—1. By Polch to Miinster-Maifeld, Schloss Elz, Treis, and Carden, where he will find himself in the most beautiful part of the Moselle, and may ascend that river to Treves, or descend to Coblenz. Starting from Mayen very early in the morning, and proceeding through Collig to Pillig and Schloss Pyrmont in a car¬ riage, the traveller may, after inspect¬ ing Schloss Pyrmont, walk across the country to Schloss Elz, see that, and, descending the valley of the Elz, reach Moselkern in time for the steamer de¬ scending to Coblenz. 2. The high post¬ road to Treves and Coblenz (Rte. 41). 3. If he take an interest in geology, he may proceed by a rough cross-road to the mountain called u Ilohc Acht,” near Kaleborn, 2200 feet above the sea, com¬ manding from its summit a most exten¬ sive view. He will find a road leading thence to Liitzerath and Bcrtrich (Rte. 41), to Ahrwciler (Rte. 39), and to the Upper Eifcl (Rte. 45). ROUTE 41. COBLENZ TO TREVES — BERTRICII BATHS. 15f Pruss. m. = 71 Eng. m. Schnellpost daily in 16 hours; with extra post the distance may be travelled easily in 12. Schnellposts daily to Mayen and Miinster-Maifeld. The road, though very hilly, is good, and the country (especially in the neigh¬ bourhood of Liitzerath) not unpictu- resque. Within a short distance, be¬ tween the road and the Moselle, there are some charming scenes. As there is no post-road along the banks of the Moselle, the best way to explore its beauties is to ascend or descend it in the steamer. (Rte. 42.) Upon the first stage from Coblenz to Treves lie many unimportant villages ; but the first of them, Metternich, gives its name to a family now known all over Europe. 3j Polch. [The small town of Miinster-Maifeld (Inn: Mayfeldcr Hof; no good inn) lies on the left of the road, about 5 m. off, in a beautiful situation. By some it is said to have been the birthplace of Caligula (?) The Ch. of St. Martin , standing on a Roman foundation, is handsome in the interior : the choir restored in gaudy colours. It contains a marble group, nearly life-size, of the Deposition, and 2 fine sculptured Triptyehs, or folding altar-pieces, painted. The W. end is castellated. About 3 m. distant, in the midst of one of the most picturesque of all the tributary valleys of the Moselle, stands the very interesting old Castle of Elz y described in Rte. 42. The castle is about 3 m. distant from the Moselle. About 3 m. higher up the valley is Wien. Prus, ROUTE 41. -BATHS OF BERTRICH. another castle, Pyrmont, in ruins, haying- been burnt by the Swedes in 1641; near it is a cascade.3 Halfway between Ivehrig and Dun- genheim the road crosses the picturesque valley of the Elz. The traveller coming from Treves, and wishing to explore the Lower Eifel (Etc. 40), would turn off to the left at Ivehrig, towards Mayen, instead of proceeding at once to Coblenz. 2^ Ivaisersesch. Cross the picturesque Martenthal. 2-j Liitzerath. Inn: Post; not good. This is the best starting-point for an excursion to the volcanoes of the Upper Eifel. (Rte. 45.) Diligence from Liitzerath twice a day to the Laths of Bertrich. [An excellent road leads through most interesting scenery from Liit- zerath to Alf on the Moselle, about 10 m., passing the Baths of Bertrich , nearly half-way. They lie in the depths of the narrow valley of the Ues, or Issbach, distinguished for its sinuosities, which present a succession of scenes, varying every few yards, and for the umbrageous foliage of the woods, which clothe its sides from top to bottom. Just before the road descends into the valley, it passes near the Falkenlei, 4§ m., a conical hill cut in two as it were, crested with basalt, in the crannies of which the falcons nestle. It was probably a vol¬ canic crater, from which a stream of basalt, occupying the lower part of the valley above the slate rocks which form its sides, may have issued, though the lava current has not been absolutely traced to this source. Its gloomy cre¬ vices and grottoes, glazed with black, are well worth exploring. A mile farther, at the junction of a little rivulet with the Iss, another basaltic current enters the valley. It appears to have been cut through by the stream, which, falling in a small cascade, has laid open a singular grotto, the sides, roof, and floor of which consist of small basaltic columns, worn away at the joints, so as to re¬ semble cheeses. This has obtained for the cave its common name of cheese cellar (Iviisekeller). The junction of 309 the clay-slate and lava is very dis¬ tinctly seen in the bed of the rivulet. The Baths of Bertrich con¬ sist of an assemblage of inns and boarding-houses, and a handsome Bath¬ house of stone (12 baths) (Lins : Post; Klering’s), in a romantic and retired spot, shut in by Hills, and almost canopied by woods intersected by agreeable walks. The waters are warm (90° Fahr.), alkaline, and abound in Glauber salts. A Protestant chapel was built here 1849. The sea¬ son lasts till August; but Bertrich is a quiet rather than fashionable water¬ ing place. It is well situated as head¬ quarters for travellers intending to ex¬ plore the Moselle. The steamboat from Coblenz to Treves touches at A//, a village at the junction of the Issbach and Moselle 5 m. below the Baths (Rte. 42). A capital road leads thither. Carriages are kept here. From Bert¬ rich to Treves, a well-engineered road, over the mountains, falls into the high road at Wittlich (8 m.); see below.] About 2 m. out of Liitzerath the road crosses what is called the Liitzerathcr Ivchr (from kchren, to turn), one of the valleys peculiar^ characteristic of the Eifel district, and remarkable for their wonderful windings and contortions. Every projection on the one side of it corresponds with a bay or recess on the other, so that the stream of the Ues or Issbach, which flows through it, driven from one side to the other by these ad¬ vancing and retreating buttresses, is seen at one time in 7 different bends or turns, taking at every bend which it makes an exactly opposite direction to that in which it had previously flowed. It is altogether a singular scene. 2| Wittlich (Inn: Post; abominable), a town of 22000 Inliab. A hilly road leads hence to Bertrich baths (8 m.). The descent into the glen on this side is very fine. Diligence to Treves daily. 2 Hetserath. Beyond Schweich the Moselle is crossed by a ferry, and the road pro¬ ceeds by the rt. bank to Treves, passing, near the entrance of the town, the Porta Nigra, or Black Gate. 310 ROUTE 41. —TREVES. Sect. IV. PLAN OF TREVES. 1 Casino. 2 Law Courts. 3 Basilica. 4 Dom. 5 St. Giugoulph. 6 Lieb Frau Ch. 7 Library. 8 Post Office. 9 Roman Baths. | 10 Museum. 11 12 Theatre. 13 Koman Tower. 14 Stadtliaus. Rhen. Pruss. ROUTE 41. -TREVES. ROMAN REMAINS. 311 ENVIRONS OF TREVES. amphi theatre ; 6TPAULSC; "TIHEILIC. \ \jKREUZ ^CONVENT IsTiMA^rKfAS. PORTA Ml CRA ilOWCNSBRVCKEi jLlroaoTO T^saarbrock MA1THEVAI MAAR miPm mr&mgSrmk UtQARBELN! k ZUR MAIELW .LUPlLAUBEN»S^>^v; •7< g!D^ PALLIEN'” RAl LWAY STATION 2~ Treves (Fr. Treves; Germ. Trier). Tuns : Trierischor Hof, very good, table d’hote at 1^ ; *Das Rothe Haus (the Red House), comfortable and well situated. 2nd class: Luxemburger Hof, good 2nd class ; H. do Yenise, near the steamer. This very ancient city stands on the rt. bank of the Moselle, in a valley of exuberant richness, surrounded by low, vine-clad hills; it has 17,240 Inhab. An inscription on the wall of the Rothes Haus (formerly the Town-hall) asserts that Treves was built before Rome— “ Ante Romam Treviris stetit annis MCCC.” Without giving credit to this, it may fairly be considered the oldest city in Germany. Julius Caesar, when he first led the Roman armies into this part of Europe, found Treves (b. c. 58) the flourishing capital of a power¬ ful nation, the Treviri, who, as allies of the Romans, rendered them great as¬ sistance in conquering the neighbouring tribes. The Empr. Augustus esta¬ blished here a Roman colony, under the name of Augusta Trevirorum , and be¬ stowed on it the privileges of having a senate and magistrates of its own. It became the capital of First Bclgic Gaul (which, it must be remembered, com¬ prised not only Gaul, properly so called, but the whole of Spain and Britain) ; and in later times it was the residence of the emperors Constantins, Constantine the Great, Julian, Yalcn- tinian, Yalens, Gratian, and Theodosius, and became so eminent in commerce, manufactures, wealth, and extent, and withal so advanced in learning and the arts, that Ausonius the poet, who lived here, calls it the second metropolis of the empire. It was indeed the capital of the Roman empire N. of the Alps. Although almost annihilated during the invasion of the Goths, Huns, and Yan- dals, it arose to a height of splendour nearly equalling its former state, under the rule of the Archbishops of Treves, who were Princes and Electors of the empire, and made Treves their residence for more than 1000 years, until 1786, when the last Elector Clement Wenzel removed to Coblenz. Many of them aimed more at temporal than spiritual sway. They maintained large armies, 312 ROUTE 41. —TREVES. CATHEDRAL. Sect. IV. which, after the fashion of the times, they did not scruple to lead in person, clad in armour. The ambition and talents of many of these episcopal rulers increased their dominions so much as to obtain for them considerable political influence in Germany. Treves was taken by the English under Marlborough in the War of the Succession, 1702-4; and at the French Revolution suffered the usual fortune of having its churches and convents stripped of their wealth, and the buildings turned into stables or warehouses. Before that event Treves boasted of possessing more ecclesiastical buildings than any other city of the same size. Treves is at present a decayed town, owing the chief interest it possesses for the traveller to the Roman remains still existing in and about it. No other city of Germany or northern Europe pos¬ sesses such extensive relicts of the mas¬ ters of the world. They are not, it is true, in the best stylo of art, and arc remarkable rather for vastness than beauty ; and in this respect bear no comparison with the Roman remains in the S, of France or in Italy. They have likewise suffered severely, not only from the Vandalism of the Vandals themselves, but from the prejudices of the early Christians, who believed they were doing good service to their reli¬ gion by effacing all traces of Paganism from the earth. Many of the buildings have been demolished, to furnish ma¬ terials for modern constructions. In the Market-Place stands a pillar of granite , surmounted by a cross, raised to commemorate the appearance of a fiery cross in the sky, seen, according to an obscure tradition, in 958. The * Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Helen. Peculiar interest attaches to this ch., exhibiting, as it does, succes¬ sive developments of the Romanesque style, from its original germ—a Roman building, erected by the Empress Helena, Constantine’s mother—down to its ultimate completion in the 12th cent. For several centuries after its foun¬ dation it consisted of two distinct buildings: 1st, a circular baptistery; 2nd, an oblong ch., the latter divided into 3 compartments—an atrium, or cloistered court, open in the centre to the sky; eastward of this the nave; terminating in a small semicircular apse. This is all that remains of Helena’s original construction, com¬ prehending the greater portion of the present cathedral, the baptistery having been taken down in the 13th cent., and replaced by the neighbouring ch. of St. Mary. The cathedral remained in its original condition until Archbp. Poppo in the 11 tli cent, rebuilt nearly the whole edifice, encased the Roman pillars with stone, roofed the atrium, added it to the nave, and then completed his work by attaching a western apse, so that, after the German fashion, there is an apse at each end. During the latter portion of the 12th cent, a much larger apse was built at the eastern extremity, enclosing the original one, and exhibiting the various characteristics of the latest Roman¬ esque, just before it merged in the first Pointed style. The building abounds with beautiful Romanesque details, among which may be specified a very elegant doorway of the 11th cent, in the S. aisle of nave. In the tympanum our Lord is represented seated, holding an open book, with the Virgin on his rt. and St. Peter on the 1. These figures are said to be of the 8th cent. The ch. is 314 ft. long, 90 ft. high. It contains several monuments of its electoral archbishops. See those of John v. Metzenhausen (d. 1540), and of Richard v. Greifenklau (d. 1530), the violent opponent of the Reformation, who defended Treves against Franz v. Sickingen. An antique sarcophagus, which served the purpose of a font. Cloisters of extreme beauty, 13th cent., stand on the S. side of the cathedral. In them may be noticed a stool, on which evil-doers, who had fled to the sacred precincts for sanctuary, had to sit. Here too may be seen a Gothic stone lantern of exquisite beauty, supported by a spiral shaft, and crowned by a finial. The Vestry contains some interesting jR hen.Prus. r. 41. —treves. liebfrauenkirche. palace, baths. 313 specimens of mediaeval art, among them a crozier of the 14th cent., which was saved from the French, when they pillaged the ch. during the Bevolution, by being concealed in the straw mattrass of a monk. The far-famed Holy Coat is said to he formed of camel’s .hair and hark of trees. It is 5 ft. long, and when not exhibited is walled up inside the high altar, spices being put into the chest which contains it, to prevent its being eaten by moths. The first mention of it occurs 1190. In 1844 it was publicly exhibited to a million of devotees, who flocked from all parts to see it. The carving of the marble pulpit is good, as far as the mutilations caused by the French leave the means of judging. The seats of the choir are inlaid with ivory and wooden mosaic (marqueterie). Adjoining the cathedral stands the far more graceful Church of our Lady (.Liebfrauenkirche ), built in the most elegant Pointed style, between 1227 and 1243; and being one of the earliest specimens of pure Gothic, to he com¬ pared with the similar and contempo¬ raneous churches of Marburg in Hesse, Altenberg near Cologne, and the ca¬ thedrals of Amiens, Salisbury, and Co¬ logne. The semicircular portal is richly ornamented with sculpture, and the in¬ terior, in the shape of a Greek cross, is supported by 12 pillars, each bearing the picture of an apostle. A little black stone in the pavement near the door is the only spot whence all these can be seen at once. The monumentof Archbp. Jacob von Sirk is a fine work of an un¬ known sculptor. A doorway in the N. transept also is well worth attention. The portal of the Jesuits’ Church is very good. The Palace of the Electors and Bishops , a very handsome and extensive build¬ ing, is now a barrack. The principal staircase displays much rich and elabo¬ rate carving. This palace stands partly upon the site of an enormous Boman edifice, only a fragment of which re¬ mains ; the larger portion having been demolished to make way for the episco¬ pal edifice, erected in 1614. This co¬ lossal fragment has been included in the palace, and goes with the vulgar by the [n. g.] name of the Heathens’ Tower ( Heiden - thurm ). It was probably the * Basilica or imperial hall attached to the Palace, the semicircular termination or apse at the E. end having been the tribunal; and the whole perhaps at one time turned into a church ; as was the case with similar halls in Borne. Be this as it may, the proportions of this Boman edifice, whose walls are more than 90 ft. high and 10 ft. thick, give a veiy good idea of the dimensions of the whole when entire. It is at the same time a masterpiece of architecture; as the bricks and tiles of which it is wholly composed remain to this day perfect and compact, and the walls, after the lapse of ages, are without a crack. King Frederick William IV. caused it to be cleared out and restored, and consecrated as a Protestant ch., 1846. Additional interest attaches to these old walls, if we consider them as the favourite residence of Constantine, and that out of them issued the de¬ crees which governed at the same time Borne, Constantinople, and Britain. In front of this building extends an open space of ground, now used for chill¬ ing troops; at its further extremity stand the shattered remains of the *Baths, Thcrmce ( B'dder-Palast ). They were long included in the S.E. angle of the fortifications of the town, and were half buried in the earth; so that the windows on the first story, being on a level with the ground, served as an entrance into the town, and were barbarously broken away at the sides, in order to admit the market- carts of the peasantry : from this the building got the name of the White Gate. Under the direction of the Prussian government these ruins have been opened out and the thorough¬ fare stopped. They resemble, on a small scale, the Thermae of Caracalla and Domitian at Borne. Vaulted rooms, reservoirs, remains of a hypocaust, sudatorium, earthen pipes, and channels for the passage of hot as well as cold water, have been brought to light, and explain the original destination of the building. The massiveness of the well- turned arches, and the thickness of the walls, will excite admiration at the skill P 314 ROUTE 41. —TREVES. AMPHITHEATRE. BLACK GATE. Sect. IV. of the builders who raised them, and surprise at the violence which has reduced them to so utter a state of dilapidation. Through a wicket in the town walls opening at the baths you may walk directly to the *Roman Amphitheatre , about 1 m. to the E. of the baths, out¬ side the walls, on the road to Ole- wig. It comes unexpectedly into sight, being scooped out of the side of the Marsberg, a hill covered with vineyards, which but a few years ago extended over the arena itself. The Prussian Government purchased the ground, and cleared away the earth which covered it to the depth of 20 ft. It is interesting in an historical as well as an antiquarian point of view, as it was upon this spot that Constantine entertained his subjects with a spectacle which he called Frank¬ ish sports (Ludi Francici), and which consisted in exposing many thousand unarmed Frankish prisoners to be torn in pieces by wild beasts. Ho twice exhibited these diversions (a. d. 306 and 313), and the fawning chroniclers of the time have not scrupled to call it a magnificent sight, “ magnificum spec- taculum,—famosa supplicia.” So great was the number of victims, that the savage beasts desisted of their own ac¬ cord from their work of destruction, and left many alive, fatigued with slaughtering. Those who survived were made to fight as gladiators against one another; but they are said to have spoiltthe amusement of the hard-hearted spectators, by voluntarily falling on each other’s swords, instead of contend¬ ing for life. The arena itself, excavated out of the solid rock, and carefully le¬ velled, is 234 ft. long, and 155 broad: deep channels for water run round and through the centre : they were supplied by an aqueduct from the stream of the Ruwer. Horns, tusks, and bones of wild animals have been discovered in digging, and one or two cave-like vaults in the side walls were, it is supposed, the dens in which they were confined previously to exhibition. This Amphi¬ theatre, capable of holding about 20,000 persons, was of humble pretensions in comparison with those of Nismes, | Verona, or the Coliseum, as, instead of being surrounded by several ranges of vaulted arcades of masonry, the sloping banks of earth, thrown up in excavating the arena, served to support the seats for the spectators. All traces of these have disappeared. The stones were probably used for building houses, as the amphi¬ theatre was long regarded no otherwise than as a quarry. Archways of solid masonry flanked by towers (no part of which now remain) formed the main entrances to the arena at the N. and S.E. extremity ; in addition to which, 2 vaulted passages (vomitoria), bored through the hill, led into the arena from the side of Treves, and still remain in tolerable preservation. One of them has been converted into a cellar, and contains the wine which grows imme¬ diately over it. It is commonly called the Kaiserkeller (Caesar’s cellar), because it is supposed to have led to the Roman Emperor’s private box. The other is not yet cleared out. The Roman Aque¬ duct, which conveyed water to Treves from the Ruwer, still exists in those places where it passed under ground ; it was 3 or 4 ft. broad, and nearly 6 ft. high, The part which was supported upon pillars across the valleys had en¬ tirely disappeared. The **Black Gate, Porta Nigra (Schwarzes Thor), called also Porta Martis, is the most interesting monu¬ ment of antiquity in Treves ; and has all the massive simplicity of the Roman style. Neither its age nor use has been satisfactorily ascertained, but it is re¬ puted (with much probability) to have been built in the days of Constantine the Great, between 314 and 322. Kug- ler, indeed, regards it as a work of the Franks, dating not from classic times, but from the middle ages. Its front is decorated with rows of Tuscan columns, its lower story is very massive, and it was probably the entrance gate on the N. line of the city waU. Some have fixed the date of the building prior to the arrival of the Ro¬ mans, and have called it the Forum, Capitol, or Council-house, of the Bel- gse; but the style of architecture favours the belief that it was a work of tho Lower Empire. Rhen.Prus. route 41. —treves. bridge, abbeys. In the 11th cent, an anchorite named Simeon of Syracuse, who had been a monk in the convent of Mount Sinai, on his return from the Holy Land posted himself on the top of the build¬ ing, in imitation of his namesake Simeon the Stylite. His ascetic and eccentric life gained for him the repu¬ tation of sanctity ; and in consequence he was enrolled in the calendar. Not long after his death the building was consecrated and dedicated to St. Simeon by Archbp. Poppo. To lit it for the service of religion, he added a semi¬ circular apsis to one end, which still remains a curious specimen of architec¬ ture, and formed 3 chinches in it, one above the other, in which service was regularly performed down to the begin¬ ning of the present century. Like most ancient structures, the lower part of it, as far as the tops of the gateways, had become buried beneath earth and rub¬ bish, so that the entrance to it was by a long flight of steps, leading to the first floor. In this state Napoleon found it on his arrival at Treves. It is in¬ sinuated that a want of ammunition, as much as a taste for art, induced him to free the building from its incumbrances, as he went no further than tearing off the thick lead from the roof, which he melted into bullets. The work of im¬ provement has been executed by the Prussian government; the building has been divested of its ecclesiastical cha¬ racter, and restored, as far as possible, to its original condition, the earth having been cleared from its base. It exhibits various marks of the dilapida¬ tions of barbarous ages and people. The masonry, of vast blocks of sand¬ stone, averaging 4 or 5 ft., but in some instances 8 or 9 ft. long, rough on the outside, was originally so neatly fitted together, without the aid of cement, that the joints of the stones could scarcely be discerned; but they have been chipped and mutilated at their angles, in order to extract the metal clamps which united them, and now seem to hang together by their corners. The interior serves to hold a few shat¬ tered fragments of antiquity, of no great interest, dug up in the neighbour¬ hood : the most curious pieces are, a 315 bas-relief of gladiators foimd in the amphitheatre, a mermaid with 2 tails, several earthenware pipes from the baths, and 2 Roman milestones from Bitburg. Besides the Roman remains already enumerated, there is within the town (in the Dietrichs Strasse, not far from the Rothes Haus), a Tower or Propug- naculum, in an excellent state of pre¬ servation. The Bridge over the Moselle is most probably the oldest Roman monument in Treves, and founded in the time of Augustus ; it is mentioned by Tacitus, and the date of its construction has been fixed by a learned antiquary about 28 years b.C. It originally stood near the middle of the town, which has gradually dwindled away till it has left the bridge at one extremity. Having resisted the storms of barbaric invasion, and the wild times of the middle ages, it was blown up by the French during the wars of Louis XIV.! In consequence, the only ancient parts remaining arc the piers of large stones, brought from the lava quarries at Men- dig, near the lake of Laach. Many single blocks are from 6 to 9 ft. long, 3 broad and 3 thick. There were anciently 4 abbeys at Treves, celebrated for their riches and extent all over Germany; hut of their wealth nothing now remains, and even the original edifices, destroyed by fires and violence, are replaced by modern structures. They are — St. Matthias , about a mile above the town, now con¬ verted into a school. The ch. (partly ancient) is actually visited by many thousand pilgrims. St. Maximin , at one time perhaps the richest Benedictine monastery in Germany, is now used as a barrack ; it occupies the site of a palace of Constantine, but possesses no other interest. St. Martin’s on the Moselle is a china manufactory. St. Mary of the Four Martyrs , below the town, stands where the residence of the Roman Prefect stood, and where 4 soldiers of the Theban legion suffered martyrdom, according to the tradition. In the Gymnasiums Gebaude (formerly a University, now removed) is the Town Library of 94,000 vols., contain- p 2 316 ROUTE 41. —TREVES. IGEL, Sect. IV. ing many literary curiosities, the chief of them being the Codex Aureus , a MS. of the four Gospels written in golden letters, formerly in the abbey of St. Maximin, to which it was given by Ada, sister of Charlemagne. It is bound in plates of silver gilt, on which are embossed figures in high relief, interspersed with precious stones; and in the centre is a splendid cameo, said to represent Augustus and his family. There is also here Archbishop Egbert’s copy of the Gospels, as well as other MSS., and many printed books of great value ; among them Gutembcrg’s first Bible, 1450. There is also a largo col¬ lection of ancient coins and medals, and Roman remains, principally found at Treves. The Fathers of the Church , St. Am¬ brose was born here, and St. Jerome studied here. The Environs abound in delightful points of excursion, fine views, &c. Pallien , a village on the 1. bank of the Moselle, at the mouth of a ravine up which the road to Aix-la-Chapellc is carried, is worth visiting on account of the picturesque character of the rocky dell, of the water-mills enclosed be¬ tween its cliffs, and of its brick bridge of a single arch thrown over the ravine by Napoleon. (Rte. 43.) At Zur- lauben, at the lower end of the town, is a ferry across the Moselle; and § m. beyond, on the height, stand Cafes, much resorted to in summer—Schnei¬ ders Hof and 'YV’ettendorfs Hauschcin. They command a good general view of the valley of the Moselle and of the town of Treves. Igel, a small village, with an inn, about 6 m. from Treves, on the high road to Luxemburg, and upon the an¬ cient Roman highway, is particularly deserving of a visit from all who take an interest in remains of antiquity, on account of the Igel Saule (monument of Igel), a beautiful Roman structure, standing in the midst of it, close to the road. It is a four-sided obelisk of sand¬ stone, more than 70 ft. high, bearing carvings, inscriptions, and bas-reliefs, but so mutilated in parts, that neither its age nor destination has yet been precisely ascertained. 4 or 5 different explanations have been given of it, and at least as many readings of the inscriptions by the antiquaries. One states it to have been raised to com¬ memorate the marriage of Constantine and Helena; another, that it records the birth of Cah'y?//a, tracing some re¬ semblance between his name and that of the place, Igel. A third considers it to allude to the apotheosis of some person of imperial rank. The plain matter of fact seems to be, that it was set up by two brothers named Secundi- nus ; partly as a funeral monument to their deceased relatives ; partly to cele¬ brate their sister’s marriage, which is represented on one of the bas-reliefs by the figures of a man and woman joining hands. The Secundini were a rich and powerful family, who, it appears from the inscription, in addition to other offices, held those of postmaster and chief of the commissariat, and supplied the Roman army with food, accoutre¬ ments, and carriages, which is further denoted by the figure of a chariot, filled with armour, &c., the subject of ano¬ ther bas-relief. From the style of the architecture and carvings, the monu¬ ment has been referred to the time of the Antonincs : some imagine it to be¬ long to the era of Constantine. It has excellence as a work of art, and as a successful example of the combination of monumental architecture with sculp¬ tural decoration; as a whole, its pre¬ servation is also remarkable. Schncllposts daily from Treves to Coblenz in 14 hours; to Cologne; to Bcmcastel and Kreutznach; to Aix-la- Chapellc in 19 hrs. (Rte. 43). Steamboats on the Moselle diming summer; 4 times a-week between Treves and Coblenz (Rte. 42.). Railways to Luxemburg and Namur; to Saarbrucken (Rte. 100 a). Station on 1. bank of the Moselle. Voiturier. — Buchholz, 239, Brod- strassc. JRhen. Pniss. R. 42. -THE MOSELLE. TREVES TO COBLENZ. ROUTE 42. TIIE MOSELLE.—FROM TREVES TO COBLENZ. Distance, about 150 Eng. m. :—more than double that of the land journey, owing to the windings of the river. Steamers 3 or 4 times a-week :— up to Treves in 1 \ day, starting from Coblenz at G a.m. for Berncastel or Trarbach, and proceeding on the following day to Treves; down in 12 or 15 hrs., starting from Treves at 5 a.m. When the river is low, which frequently happens in summer, the steamers are delayed or stopped, and the traveller must then resort to row-boats , which may be hired at every village to cross or drop down the river for short distances. Becker’s ‘ Map of the Course of the Moselle,’ and Delkescamp’s ‘Pano¬ rama,’ may be useful. 3 or 4 days may be very agreeably spent on the banks of the Moselle. This river offers a new and pleasing route to travellers visiting the Rhine, who have hitherto been content to go and return by Cologne, thus retracing their steps over ground they have seen before. The Moselle is equally accessible; by taking it, they will add variety to their jour¬ ney, and make a better use of their time. Some of the finest scenery on the Moselle may be explored in 2 days , from Coblenz, thus : Take the steamer up to Alf; proceed thence in a post-chaise to the Baths of Bertrich, 3 m. off {Inn: Post); explore the walks to the Falken- lei,&c., and return to Alf to sleep. Next day ascend the hill called Prinzenskopf- chcn, then take the descending steamer and return to Coblenz, or, if time will allow, stop at Carden, and walk or drive to Schloss Elz, returning to Carden to sleep. Next morning hire a row-boat to Aiken, and walk thence in 2 h. up a side valley to the interesting castle of Ehrenburg, returning in time for the steamer to Coblenz, or proceeding thither by the carriage road down the rt. bank of the Moselle. In order fully to appreciate the beauties of the Moselle, it is necessary to land at certain points indicated in the j 317 following route, and view it from its high banks. The Pedestrian alone can reach by by-paths and cross-roads, not passable for carriages, the finest points of view ; at one time creeping along the margin of the river, at another surveying it from the heights above. In every village he may find a boat in which he may embark when tired, and may thus shift about from one side of the river to the other. By crossing the narrow necks of land he may often save 6 or 8 miles, and reach in ~ hour a spot that a boat would require 3 or 4 to arrive at. In making these short cuts, however, he may sometimes miss fine scenes on the river. The Inns upon the Moselle have rather deteriorated of late, and will by no means satisfy fastidious travellers. The usual Charges at the Inns, seen and confirmed annually by the magis¬ trates, are, for dinner 15 S. gr., tea or coffee 5, supper 10, a bottle of wine from 5 S. gr. to 1 Th., a bed 8 to 15 S. gr., bottle of Seltzer water 5 S. gr. Good Moselle wine is hardly to be got in the inns, or elsewhere on the river than at the wine-merchants’ in Coblenz. The banks of the Moselle, though on the whole inferior in beauty to those of the Rhine, by no means present a repetition of the same kind of scenery. It is generally of a less wild and barren character; instead of black bare ravines and abrupt precipices, it is bordered by round and undulating hills, covered not merely with vines, but often clothed in rich woods, such as the Rhino can¬ not boast of. It is much enlivened with picturesque towns and villages, of which there are more than 100 be¬ tween Coblenz and Treves, while ruins of old castles, watch-towers, and Gothic church steeples are not wanting to give a religious or romantic tone to the landscape. The Moselle is particularly remarkable for its very complicated windings, which in several parts of its course form projecting promontories, almost isolated by the river. Some of the side valleys, too, which merge into the Moselle, are in the highest degree picturesque; and the yiew of the ex- 318 TRAREACH. Sect. IV. -THE MOSELLE. ROUTE 42. traordinary windings of the river, from j the heights above it, is as singular j as it is enchanting. The Moselle is not deficient in classical associations : | it is even the subject of a poem by Ausonius, written probably during his residence at Treves ; and traces of the Homans may be discovered in almost every village along its banks, if not above ground, at least wherever the soil is turned by the spade. The first part of the voyage from Treves to Berncastel presents nothing of great interest: and it is not worth while to enumerate names of unimport¬ ant villages. 1. The tall chimneys in the recess of a valley, and the wreaths of smoke proceeding therefrom, proclaim the iron¬ works of Quint. rt. Ncumagon is the Roman No- viomagus, 'where Constantine had a palace, the u inclyta castra Constan- tini ” of Ausonius, of which few frag¬ ments now remain. The Church was built 1190, partly with the materials of the Roman palace. (Clement’s Inn.) 1. Piesport (Pisonis Porta) : Plain’s Inn. One of the most famous vine¬ yards on the Moselle. 1. Opposite Dusemond is another vineyard, producing the capital wine called Brauneberger. rt. Miihlheim. Here the scenery improves in beauty. rt. Berncastel {Inn: *Drei Ivonige, clean and good fare—try the “ Doc¬ tor’s” wine), a dirty town of 2000 Inhab., on the way from Bingen to Treves (Rte. 46), picturesquely si¬ tuated under a ruined castle ( Lcindshut ) perched on a ledge of the Hundsriick mountains, which here approach close to the Moselle. There is a ferry here. Di¬ ligence to Treves in 6 hrs., and Kreutz- nach. Travellers tired of a boat should cross the hills to Trarbach, a walk of 2 hrs. (5 m.—by water 15), stony path and steep ascent at first, from Bern¬ castel. The inn at Trarbach is bad. 1. Directly opposite Berncastel lies Cus. The Hospital was founded by Cardinal Cusanus, who was born here, the son of a poor fisherman, and raised himself to that dignity by his talents. Attached to it is a Gothic chapel con¬ taining the very fine monument of John of Neuberg (1569). The rt. bank of the Moselle is here draped with vine¬ yards from top to bottom, (rt.) A little below Graach is the Priory of Mar- tinshof, now secularized. rt. Zeltingen.—De Wilde’s Inn, toler¬ able. This may be said to be the centre of the wine district of the Moselle, in which all the best sorts are produced. 1. Uerzig. (Post.) Below this village, in the face of a tall red cliff called Mi- chaelslei, a castellated wall is visible. It covers the mouth of a cave which once served to harbour a band of robber- knights, and afterwards to shelter a hermit. It was accessible only by means of high ladders. rt. Trarbach (the derivation of the name, from “Thronus Bacchi,” is pro¬ bably fanciful).— Inns: not good. The best red wine of the Moselle may be had here. The situation of this most dirty little town, of 1300 Inhab., is very beautiful, but it has lost much of its picturesqueness since the fire of 1857; it lies in the mouth of a side valley, opening upon the Moselle : but it is not otherwise interesting, and its narrow and dirty streets offer no temptation to penetrate within its gates. A neat Townhall , in modern Gothic style, has been built. The castle above it, called Grdfinburg, was one of the strongest between Treves and Coblenz, commanding entirely the pas¬ sage of the Moselle. It was the family residence of the noble Counts of Spon- heim, and was built in the 14th cent. (1338) with an Archbishop’s ran¬ som. A long and deadly feud had existed between the Archbishops of Treves and the Counts of Sponhcim, when, in 1325, the death of Count Henry held out to the reigning Arch¬ bishop, Baldwin, the prospect of enrich¬ ing himself at the expense of the widowed Countess; taking advantage, therefore, of her unprotected position, he made inroads into her domain, plun¬ dering her subjects, and laying waste her lands. The Countess Loretta, how¬ ever, was gifted with a manly spirit, and was not a person to submit tamely to such insults and injury: so, calling Rhen. Pruss. 319 ROUTE 42. -THE MOSELLE. TRABEN. ALF. together her vassals, she boldly ex¬ pelled the intruders with loss and disgrace; equally to the surprise and indignation of Baldwin, who little expected such opposition from a female. The very same year, as the bishop was quietly and unsuspectingly sailing down the Moselle to Coblenz, with a small retinue, his barge was suddenly arrested nearly abreast of the Castle of Starken- burg, by a chain stretched across the river below the surface; and before he had time to recover from his surprise, armed boats put off from the shore, and he was led a prisoner into the Castle of the Countess. She treated her perse¬ cutor with courtesy, but kept him fast within her walls until he agreed to abandon a fort which ho had begun to build on her territory, and paid down a large ransom. The finest scenery of the Moselle lies between Trarbach and Cobern. 1. Traben.— Inn, H. Claus, unpre¬ tending ; boat to and from steamer. Tra¬ ben, it is said, comes from Lat. Taberna. Opposite Trarbach rises a high hill, con¬ verted into a promontory by the wind¬ ings of the Moselle. On the summit of it Yauban constructed for Louis XIY. (1681), in the time of peace, and upon German territory, a strong for¬ tress, completely commanding the river up and down. The pretext for this proceeding was the unjust claim urged by Louis to the domains of the Counts of Sponheim. After 8000 men had been employed in constructing it, and an ex¬ penditure of many millions of francs had been incurred, it was razed to the ground, in conformity with the treaty of Ityswick, 16 years after it was built, and a few broken walls and shattered casemates alone mark the site of Fort Mont royal. The view from it is grand. rt. Starkcnburg, a village on an emi¬ nence, which once bore a castle of the same name, belonging to the Counts of Sponheim, and mentioned above. Its outworks extended down to the water¬ side, and some towers and walls still remain. rt. Enkirch, a village of 2000 Inhab.; near it are fragments of shafts of pillars, which go by the name of the Temple, and are perhaps Roman. On approaching (rt.) the village of Piindorich, the ruins of (1.) Marienburg , alternately a nunnery and a fortress, appear in sight; and from their posi¬ tion, on the summit of a high dorsal ridge, which the Moselle by its wind¬ ings converts into a promontory, remain long in view. The distance to Alf, from (1.) the village of Reil, near which a steep footpath (Rothenpfad, from the red colour of the soil) strikes upwards through the vineyards across the Isth¬ mus, is under 3 nr.; by the winding Moselle it is 12 m.; a voyage in ascend¬ ing, of 2 hrs. ; in descending, of 1 hr. Travellers intending to stop at Alf may land here, opposite Piinderich, and walk across the neck to Marienburg and Alf, which may be done in an hour, with tolerable certainty of catching the steamer at Alf. **The view from the eminence a little to the W. of Marien¬ burg, called Prinzenskopfehen , is the most surprising and pleasing that the whole course of the Moselle presents. It is a little like that from Symon’s Yat on the Wye, but is on a much grander scale. Owing to the excessive sinu¬ osities of the river, 4 different reaches appear in view at once, radiating as it were from the foot of the rock on which you stand. A waving amphitheatre of hills, covered with dark forest, occupies the horizon, and nearer at hand vine- clad slopes, villages at the water-side, and old castles, with the Fort Arras on the Issbach, to the W., are the acces¬ sories of this beautiful panorama. There is a little inn within the ruins of Marienburg, where you may breakfast or dine. rt. Zell (Melchior’s Inn) is a little town of 1800 Inhab. opposite the point of the promontory on which Marien¬ burg stands, overlooked by a guardian watch-tower. 1. Alf ( Inns: Zum Bade Bertrich (Mentjes) ;—Theisens—good fishing), on the Mosselle, is a village prettily situated at the mouth of the winding valley of the Issbach; above it stands the church, and farther up the valley rises the picturesque hill fort of Arras , which stood out for a long time, in 1138, against Adalbert, Archbishop of Treves, who swore not to shave till 320 ROUTE 42. -THE MOSELLE. COCHEM. CARDEN. Sect. IV. he liad taken it, and kept his word. Under Arras, 2 m. np the valley, are the extensive iron forges and fur¬ naces of M. Kemy, constructed accord- to the English method. The iron is brought from Bendorf on the Rhine, the coal from the mines of Saarhruck. About 6 m. up this sylvan valley are the retired *Baths of Bertrich (Rte. 41); an excellent carriage road leads to them. There are several Inns, where carriages are kept. No one should quit Alf without enjoying the very extraordinary prospect from the Prinzenskopfchen near the Marienburg mentioned above—half an hour’s walk. Soon after leaving Alf there is a very remarkable echo. 1. Bremm (Amelinger’s Inn ), a wide and solitary spot, enclosed by huge dark hills. It is difficult to guess how the river finds its way out; indeed it has very much the appearance of the head of a lake. The steep slopes be¬ hind the village resemble somewhat the cliff of the Lurlei in boldness, but they are covered with vines to the very top. rt. On the pretty green meadow op¬ posite stood, until the time of the ■ French Revolution, the nunnery of j Stuben; the massive wall of a ruined j chapel, pierced with pointed windows, | still remains. 1. There is a path from the village of , Eller over the hills to Cochem, only j 4 m. long. The windings of the river 1 between these two places cannot he less j than 12 m., hut those who avail them¬ selves of this short cut will lose some of the prettiest scenery on the river. 1. Ediger is charmingly situated. 1. Senhals. Little else than vines visible hereabouts, rt. Senheim at a little distance from the river. rt. Beilstein. Inn execrable. Tra¬ vellers should on no account think of stopping here. One of the most pic¬ turesque ruined castles on the Moselle, ; surmounted by a square donjon-keep, overlooks Beilstein. It belonged to the Electors of Treves, who deputed their I noble vassals, the Metternichs and ‘W’inneburgs, to hold it for them. The small village nestles at the foot of the rock on which it stands. 1. Cochem.— Inns: Ivchrer’s; II. de T Union. The distant view of this ancient town of 2500 Inhab., guarded as it were by the 2 picturesque castles aloft upon the hills behind, is most romantic and attractive. But Jet the stranger be satisfied with admiring it at a distance, since, within, it surpasses in the filth and closeness of its streets all other towns on the Moselle. The Castle at the upper end was an imperial fortress ; in 1689 it held out, together with the town, for a long time against the forces of Louis XIV., but being at last, after 4 separate assaults, taken by storm, the greater portion of the garrison, consist¬ ing of 1600 Brandenburgers, and many of the citizens, were inhumanly put to the sword, and the houses and castle burnt. This atrocious act was ordered by the French Marshal Boufflers, and executed by his subordinate officer, M. de Grignan, the son-in-law of Madame de Sevigne. The lower castle of Winneburg is lost from view until you draw close to the town, being situated some way up the glen of the Endertbach. It is the most ancient family seat of the Metternichs; the head of the house at present being the late Austrian Prime Minister, who has repaired it and fitted it up. The large building seen above the spire of the church, near the lower end of the town of Cochem, was originally a Capuchin convent, and is now a school. 1. Clotten, a small village, with a church on an eminence, in the gap of a valley overlooked by a ruined castle. Monotonous hills intervene for a con¬ siderable distance between Clotten and rt. Treis, situated within a little amphitheatre of hills, from which, at a short distance from the river, 2 castles look down: one of them, 'Wildburg, was won in hard fight by an Archbishop of Treves, in the 12th cent. An elegant modern church hasbeen erected at Treis. 1. Carden (Brauer’s Inn. N.B. No good inn between this and Coblenz) is a picturesque old village, in one of the most lovely situations on the Moselle. The Church, conspicuous with its 3 towers, was built in the 12th cent., in honour of St. Castor, whose body was buried here, and after- Rhen. Prussia. R. 42. —the moselle, the elz. moselkern. 321 wards removed to Coblenz. The ex¬ terior and E. end are in the Roman¬ esque style of architecture. The Clois¬ ters are worth notice. Within, there is a curious antique font, and a represen¬ tation of the Entombment; the figures are of stone, as large as life. At the lower end of the town, by the water¬ side, stands the Old Post-house, a pic¬ turesque castellated building, with pro¬ jecting turrets, surrounded by a red fringe-like ornament, and surmounted by peaked roofs; it bears the date 1562. Behind it is a Romanesque building, of the 12th or 13th cent., free from alterations and interpolations, which has been unaccountably neglected by draughtsmen and antiquaries. It is said to have been a tithe-barn of the Archbp. of Treves. [Schloss Elz. N.B.—No Inn ; take provisions. An intricate path runs from Carden to the very interesting old * Castle of Elz , the beau-ideal of a feudal fortress of the middle ages ; but the walk to it is still further shortened by landing at the village of 1. Miiden, from which it is not more than 2 m. distant, but the way is not easy to find. A steep path ascends the hill, behind the village ; then, striking through fields and orchards to a farm-house, reaches a pretty green meadow, from which the winding vale of the Elz is visible, and out of which peer the singular peaked turrets of its castle, which no traveller should pass without visiting. The little stream of the Elz, remark¬ able for its excessive windings, almost encircles the tall bold rock on which the castle stands. A narrow isthmus of rock prevents its being an island, but this has been cut through, and over the ditch thus formed a bridge is thrown, forming the only approach. The banks of the river are thickly grown over with trees and brushwood; and a second and rival castle, rising opposite to Schloss Elz, and within bow-shot of it, contri¬ butes to the beauty of this romantic valley. The Castle of Elz is a singu¬ larly irregular building, or group of buildings, adapted to the form of the rock on which it stands. The whole pile rises so abruptly from the preci¬ pitous sides of the rock that its pedestal appears scarcely large enough to hold it. I he path leading up to the main entrance is cut in the rock, and is steep and slippery. It is the cradle of one of the most ancient and noble families in this part of Germany, and is an almost solitary example of a feudal residence spared by fire, war, and time, and re¬ maining in nearly the same condition that it was 2 or 3 centuries ago. It has been repaired, and is inhabited. The interior is a labyrinth of passages, turret-stairs, and chambers, many of which are of irregular shapes. Many of the apartments are hung round with family portraits. There are curious ornamented fireplaces (not stoves), and some rooms are paved with monastic¬ looking tiles, with patterns impressed, not coloured. In one room there are a few pieces of armour, and one or two morsels of painted glass. The stream of the Elz is seen from the pro¬ jecting turrets, flowing in its snake¬ like course in the depth of the wooded gorge 80 or 100 ft. below. The rival castle before alluded to, Trutz-Elz , on the opposite rock, was built to defy the Lords of Elz, by Baldwin Bishop of Treves, who besieged them for many months, and cutting off, by this counter castle, the approaches to their strong¬ hold, at length compelled them to sur¬ render. They afterwards held this castle also as a fief from the Bishop, whose vassals they became. About 3 m. higher up the valley stands another castle, Schloss Pyrmont , burnt by the Swedes in 1641 ; and near it is a cascade. A good carriage-road leads to Coblenz (Rte. 41) by Munster - Maifeld. The Elz falls into the Moselle at Moselkern, about 6 m. below the Castle, but the path down the picturesque val¬ ley is veiy bad, fording the stream, or crossing it on stepping stones, 12 or 13 times in that short distance. Another •but not easier way to Moselkern is to cross the hill, or follow the heights along the brink of the glen, which com¬ mand noble views.] 1. Moselkern (Zhn, Anker), a village at the mouth of the picturesque vale of Elz. p 3 COBERN. PIEBELICH. Sect. IV. 322 ROUTE 42.' —THE MOSELLE. 1. The Castle of Bischofsstein was a stronghold belonging to the Archbishops of Treves. Its tall cylindrical donjon tower is girt round with a white streak, and a ruined chapel adjoins it. It was built 1270. 1. Hatzenport. Moritz’s Inn. rt. Brodenbach stands near the mouth of the Ehrenbach. The ravine out of which it issues should by all means he explored. At first gloomy and dark, it in a short while opens out, and discloses a lovely valley with green meadows, vineyards, and water-mills closed up in front by a rocky height, on the summit of which, only 2 m. distant from the Moselle, stands the * castle of Ehrenberg , towering above the tree tops. It is a splendid monument of old times, still in a tolerable state of preservation; as it owes its decay to time and neglect, not to violence. It may be said to surpass in beauty any individual castle on the Bhine, and is well worth visiting. It now belongs to the v. Stein family. There is a way over the hills from Ehrenberg to Boppart, on the Bhine, 9 m., hut a guide will be needed. rt. Aiken, an ancient town, connected by a chain of towers with Schloss Thurand , a picturesque castle on the height above. It nas two circular keeps, and the green ivy creeps along its walls. It was built in 1209, and was held in 1246 by a robber knight, the Pfalzgrave Zorn. Having committed depredations in the territory of his neighbours, the Archbishops of Treves and Cologne, he was besieged for 2 years by their com¬ bined forces, who, during that time, emptied 3000 butts of wine. The garrison, having consumed all their provisions, surrendered the castle ; but Zorn cut his way through the enemy. 1. The village of Catenes is said to derive its name from a chain (catena) formerly stretched across the river at this point, to arrest boats and compel them to pay toll. 1. Gondorf. The conspicuous build¬ ing at the upper end of this village, by the water-side, is the family mansion of the Coimts von der Leyen, another of the oldest and most noble races on the Moselle; which numbers among its members many generals in the Imperial armies, and 3 Electors of Treves and Cologne. The building was repaired in 1814, and has since passed out of the possession of the Leyens. At the lower end of the village stands a gable-faced house, connected with a tall tower of defence, built 1350, and said to have belonged to the Knights Templars. A large quantity of potters’ and pipe clay, obtained from pits 3 m. off, at Hreschenich, is here embarked, and sent to Holland, to form pipes for the Dutch¬ men. It is quite white, and of good quality; it is dug out from beneath a bed of gravel. l.Cobern (Schwab’s Inn). The heights behind this little town are crowned by 2 ruined castles—the lower, or Nicderburg, and the Oberburg. Within the enclosure of the upper castle stands the very re¬ markable Chapel of St. Matthias. The way to it passes the new church, and the house of the pastor, who keeps the keys of the, chapel, and Avill lend them to discreet persons. A steep footpath strikes up from a mill, through the vineyards, and behind the lower castle, which it leaves on the right. The view from the top is fine, and it takes about 20 min. to reach it. St. Matthias’s Chapel is an elegant little Gothic struc¬ ture, in the form of a hexagon, sup¬ ported within iipon 6 clusters of co¬ lumns, each formed of 5 detached marble pillars. The exact date of the building is unknown, but the style of the architecture is that of the first half of the 13th cent., and its founders are supposed to have been Crusaders, who caused it to be erected on their return from the Holy Land. This may account for the somewhat Saracenic aspect of its interior. All the arches are rounded, except those which sup¬ port the central tower, which are pointed and slightly horse-shoed; the lower windows are in shape like the ace of clubs. The effect of the interior is ex¬ tremely light and graceful, and this chapel deserves to he visited by all who interest themselves in architecture. It has been repaired by the architect Las- saulx. rt. Diehelich ( quasi Diabolich) is famous for witches, who in the middlo Rhenish Prussia. 323 R. 43. —AIX-LA-CHAPELLE TO TREVES. ages were believed to haunt peculiarly this spot, and to hold meetings for mid¬ night revelry on the top of a neigh- homing mountain. At the end of the 15th century, a bishop, who had written a book upon witchcraft, caused 25 per¬ sons to be burned here for that crime l This is a pretty spot, surrounded by orchards and walnuts, with fine wooded banks opposite. 1. "Winningen is a Protestant village, though all around are Popish. A neat modern school-house faces the river. rt. Ley. At the breaking up of the frost in the Moselle in 1830 this village was buried nearly 30 feet deep in ice, which broke the timber framework of many of the houses, and entirely swept away several; overspreading all the lower vineyards. 1. GUIs, distinguished by its modern twin spires, is surrounded by orchards, which furnish cherries and walnuts in large quantities for exportation to Hol¬ land. A very narrow and dangerous carriage-road has been completed along the rt. bank of the Moselle, from Mosel- weiss to Niederfell. When improved and extended farther upwards, it will become equally conducive to the con¬ venience of the tourist, and to the pros¬ perity of the valley. 1. The spire of the Ch. of Metternich is seen above the trees. rt. Moselweiss, a small village sup¬ posed to be the Yicus Ambitianus of the Romans, and the spot where Agrippina gave birth to Caligula. The tower of tho church is of great antiquity, and is mentioned in records of the year 1209. Above Moselweiss rise the fortifications of Fort Alexander, one of the outworks of Coblenz, situated between the Moselle and the Rhine. rt. Coblenz (Rte. 37). ROUTE 43. AIX-LA-CHAPELLE TO TREVES. 20 Pruss. m. = 93 £ Eng. m. Schnellpost daily in 21 hrs. The accommodation for travellers -is on a very low scale. The only tolerable sleeping quarters are at Prum, but they arc indifferent. This excellent macadamised road was completed in 1836, by the Prussian go¬ vernment, to open a communication along the Belgian frontier; its design seems rather military than commercial. It lies through a country wild and dreary in parts, in others very beau¬ tiful ; in all most interesting to an English botanist, Avho will find in the wild heath between Treves and Mont- joie, and in the latter town itself, some of the rarest plants of his own country. The road on leaving Aix-la-Chapelle is carried under the Cologne railway, and past the picturesque fragment of aruined castle, Schonforst , near which is a very large lime-tree. About 7 m. from Aix is the village of Corneli-Munster, with 750 Inhah. The extensive remains of its ancient convent, founded 815, by Lewis the Pious, are turned into a cloth manufactory. 2~ Konigsberg. 2| Montjoie, a small town of 3000 Inhab., on the Roer, manufactures much cloth. (Bauer’s Inn is the best.) Its fine and nearly perfect Castle was almost entirely pulled down 1836. There are slate-quarries outside the town. The village of Kaltenherberg (1370 Inhab.) lies at the foot of the mountain 324 ROUTE 43. —ROMAN HIGHWAY. BALESFELD. Sect. IV. range called Hohe Veen (Fr. Hautcs Fanges, The High Fen). Their high¬ est summit is 2200 ft. above the sea: this is a wild and sterile district, abounding in bogs and marshes. The inhabitants are chiefly Walloons. 2 j Biitgenbach (Ann, Poste), a village of 500 souls. A cross road hence to Spa, by Malmedi (Etc. 44). This stage lies over a wild dreary track, part heath, part forest, which is burnt for charcoal, to 2 Losheim, ( Inn ; *Post), a small vil¬ lage. Its Church contains some relics : the cloth with which our Saviour girt himself and dried the apostles’ feet—a part of his winding-sheet—fragments of the skull of St. Cornelius !! Hear this a good cross road, on the 1., leads from Losheim to Hillcsheim, in the Eifel (Ete. 44). Here begins the chain of hills called Schneifel, Schnee Eifel (Snow Eifel). 2| Priim — Inn, Goldner Stem; the best sleeping quarters between Aix and Treves, but indifferent.— D. G. Cheap and dirty. Bed, 15 S. gr.; tea, 8 S. gr.; breakfast, 8 S. gr. This small town lies at the S. extremity of the Schneifel, immediately beneath a beau¬ tifully wooded hill, and has 2100 Inhab. A portion of the old convent alone survives, and is now converted into a school. The church near it, in the Ita¬ lian style, and uninteresting, replaces the magnificent original church of the once famous Abbey Sancti Bencdicti ad Pratum (whence the modern name Priim), of which no vestige now re¬ mains. In the burial-ground , outside the town, a stone cross is planted on the spot where the high altar stood. The walls of this edifice were pulled down to furnish materials for rebuilding the houses of the town after it had been destroyed by fire in 1769. The excur¬ sion to the Upper Eifel (Ete. 45) may be made from Priim. The distance to Gerolstein is about 12 m. The road is practicable only for light carriages. Hereabouts the modern road falls in with the great Roman highway from Treves to Cologne. It is proved, by an inscription found at Marmagen, that Agrippa was the director of this, the greatest work of the Eomans in their Ehenish provinces. It was carried through a country still wild and un¬ peopled, but in their days as little trod¬ den as the backwoods of America are now. It appears by the Eoman Itiner¬ ary, that, besides numerous post-houses ( 'mutationes , for changing horses), there were 6 mansiones along this line of road, serving at the same time as military posts, garrisoned with troops ; as hotels, in which the emperors themselves were accommodated on their journeys; and as stations of relays of horses for couriers. The first of these was at Tolbiacum (Zulpich, the spot where Clovis and the Franks defeated the Alemanni), the last at Bseda3 Vicus (Bitburg). All the stations seem to have been carefully supplied with water, judging from the remains of subterraneous conduits or i aqueducts which have been discovered along the line of the road. 4-2 m. beyond Priim is Schonecken, a small village of 1538 Inhab. The ruined castle on a height originally belonged to the family of the Counts of Vianden. It was destroyed by the French in 1802. 2| Balesfeld. Between this and Bit¬ burg the road docs not pass a single village. The country is a tract of high land, with a rough climate and a barren soil, but abounding • in woods, and fre¬ quently opening into beautiful views. The inhabitants are rude and unpolished, their houses and persons alike slovenly, in proportion as the land they inhabit is wild and remote. They are also ig¬ norant and superstitious ; and, not con¬ tented with keeping the usual holidays and festivals of the Church, almost every village has a patron saint of its own, in whose honour festivals are celebrated. Each saint is supposed to have a pecu¬ liar province and to preside over some particular class of diseases. Thus St. Apollonia is invoked in cases of tooth¬ ache ; St. Blaize, to avert sore throats ; St. Lambert, to cure epilepsy; St. Odi- i lia, for sore eyes; St. Lucia, for other : complaints ; St. Gertrude is engaged to I drive away rats ; and St. Wen del in is looked upon as the protector of cattle. On their anniversaries the people flock in crowds to the churches dedicated to these medical saints so rich in remedies, bringing offerings not only of money, Rhenish Prussia. 325 -SPA TO COBLENZ. ROUTE 44. but also of butter, eggs, pigs’ heads, See., which give the church the appear¬ ance of a market-place rather than a place of worship. Upon those days no work is done, and the evening- concludes usually in drinking and gambling. 2 Bitburg (Inn, Poste, not good), a town of 1700 Inliab., anciently a Ro¬ man station, Boedoe Yicus. [About 10 m. W. of Bitburg, within the frontier of Luxemburg, but scarcely accessible by roads, stands Vianden, a castle exceeding in extent almost any on the Rhine. 13 m. further is the ruined Abbey of Echternach (described in Rte. 29).]| At Fliesscm, about 3 m. from Bitburg, on the road to Priim, and not more than § m. from the road, is a Roman villa. It contains very perfect and beautiful mosaics and a hypocaust in excellent preservation, curiously illus¬ trating the mode of heating buildings and apartments by the Romans. Two Roman milestones were dug up in a wood near Bitburg; they stood on the ancient high road, a short distance from the new post-road. They bear the name of the Empr. Hadrian, in whose reign they were set up, and the dis¬ tance marked upon them was 22,000 paces (M. P. XXII.) from Treves. Be¬ tween Bitburg aud If Helcucubcrg- there is not a single village ; but traces of the Roman road appear in sight from time to time. The very beautiful church at Helenenberg- (called also the hospital) is now turned into a barn. Near Pallim, a village whose inhabitants live partly in caves cut out of the rocks, the roacl is carried over a deep ravine upon a bridge of a single arch, built by Napoleon (p. 306) ; and a passage has been hewn for the road itself in the solid rock, for a con¬ siderable distance, until it reaches the bank of the Moselle, immediately oppo¬ site the city of 2\ Treves (see Rte. 41), The view of Treves in descending is very strik¬ ing. ROUTE 44. _SPA TO COBLENZ. 20f Pruss. m. = 93f Eng. m. Two easy days by post—to Hilles- heim the 1st day. Diligence daily-— Spa to Malmedi—in 3 hrs. Though hilly, the road is so well laid out that 8 m. an hour on an average may be made. Passing through a volcanic coun¬ try, it offers very varied scenery—hill and vale, beech forests, heaths, corn, and grass-lands. A gradual ascent of nearly 4 m., shaded by an agreeable avenue of trees, leads out of the valley of Spa: passing the mineral spring of Sauveniere, situated in a clump of trees, the road emerges upon a high, level, and bare district of barren heath, resembling Dartmoor, called Les Fanges. [At the village of Francorchamps the road to Malmedi, turning to the 1., leaves that to Stavelot (Inn, FI. d’Orange), a town of 4000 Inliab., owing its origin to an abbey (Stabu- lum Fidelium), founded 651 by Sige- bert, on the advice of St. Remade. In its church is preserved the very curi¬ ous Shrine (Chasse) of St. Remacle. It is 6 ft. long, of copper plates, gilt and enamelled, the sides hanked by 14 canopied niches, containing silver-gilt statuettes 1 ft. high of the 12 Apostles ; with St. Remade and St. Lambert rather larger. At the ends, under the gables, are seated figures of our Lord, the Virgin and Child. The sloping roof is divided into 8 panels of reliefs in repoussec work, containing subjects from the life of our Lord. The sides, cornices, gables, &c., are encrusted with precious stones, beryl, opal, tur¬ quoise, &c. During the French Revo¬ lution, the shrine (said to contain still the saint’s bones) was placed in a large cask and sunk under water. It is pro¬ bably a work of the 14tli cent. The only remains of the abbey ch. is part 326 Sect. IV. ROUTE 45. —UPPER EIFEL. of a Romanesque tower. Its abbots were princes of the Germ. Empire, and had a seat in the Diet, with right of coining money. There are 73 tanneries here. Pretty drive from Stavelot to Vieux Sahn, where is a clean little inn, II. de Bellevue, at which you may board and lodge for 4 frs. a day, with privilege of shooting for a fortnight.] About I 5 m. further runs the Prus¬ sian frontier, where baggage is slightly examined (§47). A fine view is gained on winding down the steep hill, of red sandstone, from the table-land into Mal¬ medi. Malmedi (Inn, Cheval Blanc, an humble inn), a small town of 4000 Inhab., famous for the manufacture of sole leather for shoes, there being 50 tanneries here in active work. The hides arc derived from South America. The Ardennes forest furnishes the best bark. The greater part of Germany is supplied from Malmedi and Stavelot, and many of the tanners are very wealthy. The fantastic houses and gardens, in and around the town, chiefly their property, are somewhat in the Dutch style. The most remarkable of them, Montbijou, lies on our road a little way out of the town. The road enters the great highway from Aix to Treves (Bte. 43), about 8 m. from Malmedi, a little beyond 2 Biitgenbach (Bte. 43). 2 Losheim, in Bte. 43. Here a road branches off to the E., passing under the ruined castle Kronenburg, to 1 | Stadtkyll [Inn, Post), on the road from Aix-la-Chapelle to Coblenz by Mayenco, which is traversed daily by a schncllpost. 2 Hillesheim (Inn, Post; comfort¬ able, with civil people, who make high charges), a curious old town, surrounded by walls from which there are fine views. From a hill near it a fine view is obtained of the Eifcl. The country hence to Ivellberg and Mayen presents fine forests and patches of beech, and some oak, with hills of volcanic forms in all directions. 3 Ivellberg.— Inn f Post. A public carriage runs between the Ahr valley and Ivellberg, meeting that between Coblenz and Losheim. Views of the castle of Nurberg. Through an inte¬ resting country, passing many dome- topped hills—from whose egg-shape perhaps the district is called Ei-fel (?)— and near to the picturesque castle Vir- neberg, to 3g Mayen (see Btes. 41 and 40), on the post-road to 3^ Coblenz (Rte. 37). ROUTE 45. THE UPPER EIFEL—PRuM TO GEROL- STEIN, DAUN, AND LuTZERATII. The country of the Eifel Gebirge is particularly interesting to the geolo¬ gist, from the traces of volcanic agency which it exhibits in its lava currents and numerous extinct craters, many of them now filled with lakes or tarns. Apart from this consideration, the scenery of the Eifel has many fea¬ tures of no inconsiderable beauty and interest to induce the ordinary traveller to visit it. “ The high ground consti¬ tuting this tract of country is much diversified with finely formed emi¬ nences, which are often conical or crater-shaped, and frequently wooded ; the valleys are remarkable sometimes for their bold and rocky sides, frequently capped with old castles, and contracting into narrow glens ; sometimes for their softer or wooded and verdant character ; above all, the great peculiarity of the district is the secluded, often much concealed, and singular ‘ maars ’ or crater-lakes .”— T. T, Meres in Eng¬ lish. Permission may be obtained to fish in the lakes for roach and pike—trout are rare ; also for boar-shooting. Per¬ haps the finest and most picturesque scenery in the whole Eifel is presented by the course of the Kyll between Rhen. Prussia. ROUTE 45. —GEROLSTEIN. DAUN. Pclm, at the foot of the Casselburg, and Gerolstein, where the valley is lined by lofty and picturesque cliffs of Dolomite. The region of the Eifel is still the haunt of wolves and wild hoars ; the former not unfrequently approach hu¬ man habitations in the winter, and commit depredations on the flocks. The traveller visiting the Eifel from Aix-la-Chapelle or Spa will proceed by the roads described in Btes. 43 or 44 as far as Priim (Pte. 43). A post¬ road runs hence to Bonn and Cologne. At Priim we may turn aside to enter upon the district of the Eifel. The roads throughout it are almost inva¬ riably had, especially in wet weather, and the country hilly. Gerolstein (Inn, Schreiber’s, tolera¬ ble), where the tour of the Eifel pro¬ perly begins, is about 10 m. from Priim. It is a picturesque town on the Kyll, in a valley running between cliffs of limestone and dolomite, which, more particularly on the N. side, often pre¬ sent precipitous and striking escarp¬ ments, and peculiarly formed, and sometimes isolated, rocky eminences. Above the town are the ruins of a Castle. An interesting excursion, and one that may easily be accomplished in a forenoon, is to start by the footpath leading to the clear carbonated spring at the bottom of the valley, to cross the river Kyll, and ascend the hill opposite (to the N. of the town). On the summit is a perfectly formed dry crater called the Pfaffenkaul. The surface of the hollow is now cultivated, but traces of volcanic action are everywhere apparent. A little to the W. is a stream of lava which divides into 2 branches, and includes a hollow space termed the Hagelskaul. Near it, to the S., there is a considerable cavern, situated in the cliffs termed the Buchen- loch, formed by one of the numerous fissiires in the strata, but probably en¬ larged by art. Thence the field may be crossed to the Ice grotto of Both, in order -to see which lights and a guide may be procured at a farm-house and inn near the ch. of Both. In this cavern, which is a sort of natural ice¬ house, ice is always to be found during 327 the summer, but it is said to disappear in winter. In returning to Gerolstein, the road may bo varied by crossing the base of the Auberg, where innumerable fossil shells, corals, &c., are found strewed over the surface of the fields. Several persons in Gerolstein form col¬ lections of them for sale.— T. T. One of the curiosities of the neighbourhood is a mineral spring, called Brudeldreis, opposite Birresborn, on a hill within the Gerolstein wald. In the summer it dries up ; but if a cupful of water be thrown into the basin of rock from which it issues, a rattling is heard, and a jet of water spilled out. Dead bodies of birds and other small animals are often found near it, destroyed by having alighted within the range of the noxious vapour issuing from it (carbonic* acid gas), but it is a fable that birds arc killed in flying over it. Peasants stoop¬ ing down to drink are repulsed by the suffocating vapour, which, being heavier than the air, lies along the surface of the water, in a stratum more or less deep as the atmosphere is agitated or calm. The road from Gerolstein to Kirch- weiler (3 m.) passes the Casselburg, a picturesque stronghold, surmounting a mass of basaltic rock. Dochweiler, 3 m. farther, is a village built of lava. Near it, to the N.W., is a large basin¬ shaped crater, called Dreiser-Weilicr, which, though now a meadow, was evidently at a former period filled with water, and is still remarkable for its numerous mineral springs. Dreis, in the dialect of the Eifel, means a mineral spring. Olivine, a comparatively rare mineral, is found at the S. side of the crater, sometimes in masses 18 in. in diameter, and augite is also met with. Glassy felspar is found at IIo- henfels, near this. Some of the highest hills in the Eifel surround the Dreiser- Weiher. 5 m. from Dochweiler lies Daun; (Grethen’s Inn.) Carriage to Gerold- stein, Manderscheid, or Lutzerath (on the high road to Coblenz), 2j thalers. The castle was the family residence and the birthplace of the Marshal who led the Austrian armies in the Seven Years’ War, and defeated Frederick the Great 328 ROUTE 46. —BINGEN TO TREVES. Sect. VI. at Kolin. On the summit of a steep acclivity near this lie 3 crater lakes: — 1 . We inf elder-Maar, said to he the highest in the district—a perfect basin scooped out of rock; on the precipice above it stands a rude small church. 2 . Separated from 1 by a narrow isth¬ mus of slaty rock is the Shalkenmchrer- Maar , embanked only on two sides, on the others hounded by a wide flat meadow alternating with peat hog. 3. ^ m. removed from the others is the gem of all the lakes, deep set in a hollow surrounded by copsewood, the Gmunden- Maar, very beautiful. From Daun, a detour should be made by Stadfeld to Manderscheid (Inn: Pantenburg’s), in order to see its two old castles (the larger one is very interesting), and the Meerfelder Maar, another considerable crater-lake in a perfectly circular basin, 100 fathoms deep ; the water does not occupy the whole of it. Close to it rises the hill of Mosenberg, remarkable for its 4 volcanic cones of slag; 3 of them arc perfect; 1 is broken down on the S. ; from one of them a current of basaltic lava descends into the valley. A pleasant pedestrian excursion from Manderscheid to Neumiihl, through the valley of the Kyll. Gillenfeld (Klasen [Otto] Inn), on the road to Liitzcrath, passing Hcders- dorf, is the next point of interest. On the height 1 m. E. lies the Pulvcr- maar, one of the largest and most beau¬ tiful crater-lakes of the Eifel, 330 ft. deep: large pike in it. On the way from Gillenfeld to Liitzerath is the village of Strotzbusch, built in the hollow of a crater-lake, and near it there are remains of another crater, formerly perhaps a lake. There is a post-road from Liitzerath to Daun, 2} 2 Germ, m., but it does not pass through Gillenfeld or Strotz¬ busch ; and from Daun through Doch- weiler to Hillesheim, 2± Germ. m. Liitzerath is distant from Daun, by the direct road, about 12 Eng. m. We have now entered upon Route 41. ROUTE 46. BINGEN TO TREVES. 16J Pruss. m. == 76 Eng. m. Treves may now be reached by rail via Saarbriick. Diligence daily from Kreutznach to Treves by Berncastel. The chief part of this road is excellent, though hilly; it is carried out of the valley of the Nahc by well-constructed zigzags, and at one point, where seats have been erected, commands a charm¬ ing view. There is considerable beauty in the gorge leading down to the village of lj Stromberg, with the ruins of Castle Goldenfels , which was bravely defended against the French, 1793, by the Prussian Lieut, v. Gauvain, with 35 men. A monument commemorates the event. 3 Simmern (Inn, Post), on the Ilunds- riick, or Hunsriick. We follow the line of the old Roman road as far as Ivirchberg. 2| Biichenbeuern. From this to Berncastel the road is very hilly, run¬ ning over the high table-land of the Hundsriick (Dog’s Back) which ex¬ tends between the Rhine, Moselle, and Nahc. For a considerable distance neither house nor human being is to be seen. The country is a bleak uncul¬ tivated waste of moor and moss, with forest interspersed. Here and there a distant view over hills and valleys ap¬ peal's. We again follow the line of the old Roman road, called in the country Steinstrasse. By the side of it is seen a small truncated tower (Stumpfer Thurm), said to be (?) a Roman work. It is supposed indeed, that the Ro¬ man station Belginum, or Tabernce, may have stood upon this spot. A little farther on, the road descends through a narrow and winding ravine (the Tiefcnbacherthal), whose sides, formed of ragged slate rocks, are ex¬ ceedingly picturesque, in many places Rhenish Prussia. 329 ROUTE 47. —COLOGNE TO FRANKFURT. overhanging the road, and sprinkled j over with trees and underwood. Con¬ siderable mines have been driven into these rocks, and roofing slate is obtained from them. Many of the entrances to them open close upon the road¬ side. At the bottom of this steep de¬ scent lies 3^ Berncastel , on the Moselle.— Inn, Three Kings. Rte. 42. The Moselle is here passed by a ferry¬ boat ; a good road leads to 3^ Hctzerath, on the high road from Coblenz to Treves. 2f Treves. Route 41. ROUTE 47. COLOGNE TO FRANKFURT A. M., BY SIEGBURG AND GIESSEN. 23f Germ. m. = 105 Eng. m. The Cologne-Giessen Railway, opened to Wissen I860, to Giessen 1862— 3 trains daily to Giessen in 5| hrs.; Terminus at Deutz—ascends the valley of the Rhine, hut at some distance from ' the river, until it enters the tributary valley of the Sieg, not far from 34 Sicgburg Stat. {Inn, Stern, toler- ■ able), a town of 2500 Inhab., on the I Sieg, about 4 m. above its junction with the Rhine. Upon the rock of St. Michael, j in a singularly beautiful situation, im¬ mediately overhanging the town, stands ; the ancient Benedictine Abbey, founded in 1060 by Archbishop Hanno, who is i buried within the tine Church. It is now a Lunatic Asylum. Diligence j daily to Bonn, crossing the Sieg by a { ferry some way below Siegburg, and the Rhine by the flying bridge. Ilenncf Stat. Near this the Sieg is crossed by the rly.; the valley con¬ tracts ; several bridges and a tunnel arc passed, rt. Castle of Blankenburg. Another tunnel before Eitorf Stat. Burg - Welterath is the property of Count Nesselrode. Schladern Stat. Pretty scenery—deep cutting—falls of the Sieg : Castle of Windeck restored. Wissen Stat. On 1. bank of Sieg rises the Schonstein, the handsome chateau of Prince Hatzfeld-Wilden- burg. [7 m. S.W. is Altenkirclien, where General Marceau (the Bayard of the French republic) received his death wound in an action with the Austrians under the Archduke Charles. Rte. 37.] Betzdorf Stat. [Near this the Sieg Valley Rly. diverges 1. from our line, passing by Siegen Stat. ( Inn: Goldener Lowe), Pop. 7100. In the lower of the Two Castles of the Prince of Nassau-Siegen is a monument to P. Maurice of Nassau (d. 1625). Siegen is the birthplace of Rubens 1577. This Rly, is carried into the valley of the Ruhr by Altena and Hagen {Inns: Deutsches Haus; II. Liinenschloss), where it forms a junction with the rly. from Dusseldorf to Elberfeld (Rte. 67), near the Castle Hohcn-Syburg.] The Giessen Rly. is carried through the valley of the Dill by Dillenburg (Nassau). The great statesman and hero, William Prince of Orange, as well as his son P. Maurice, were born in the Castle. Stations— Herborn, Sinn, Ehringhausen. Wetzlar Junct. Stat., in the valley of the Lahn (Rte. 96). Railway to Giessen Junct. Stat. (Rte. 70). 2 ^ Frankfurt a. M., Rte. 95. . ■ ( 331 ) SECTION V. PRUSSIA, continued.— MECKLENBURG—HANOVER—BRUNSWICK— HESSE CASSEL—THE HANSE TOWNS, &c. PAGE 331 ROUTE 56. London to Hamburg .... 57. Hamburg to L'ubeck and Tra- vemiinde —Railway . . . 337 58. Hamburg to Stralsund, by Schwerin , Dobberan , and Ros¬ tock .340 59. Hamburg to Hanover, Bruns¬ wick, or Ilildesheim—R ail. 342 60. Hamburg to Bremen and Oldenburg.343 61. Hamburg to Berlin —Rail . 344 62. Berlin to Magdeburg, by Potsdam and Brandenburg — Rail.364 63. Berlin to Leipzig, by Witten¬ berg, Kothen, Halle , Worlitz, and Dessau —Rail 64. Magdeburg to Leipzig, by Ivo- tben— Rail . 65. Berlin to Dresden—R ail . 66. Cologne to Berlin, by Minden , Hanover, Brunswick , Magde¬ burg —Cologne and Minden Railway . 67. Diisseldorf to Berlin, by El- berfeld, Cassel, Eisleben, and Halle. ROUTE PAGE 68. Cologne to Cassel and Bruns¬ wick, by Soest and Paderborn —Rail. 69. Diisseldorf to Munster and to Osnabriick (Rail) . . . 69 a. Paderborn to Hanover, by the Grotenberg , Extersteine, Det- mold, Pyrmont. 70. Frankfurt-a.-M. to Cassel — Rail. 71. Descent of the Weser from Hanoverian Miinden to Hameln , Minden, and Bre¬ men ( Pyrmont ) .... 72. Cassel to Hanover, by Got¬ tingen . 72 a. Diisseldorf to Bremen — Rail.406 373 ' 73. The PIarz. — Gottingen to 373: Clausthal, Goslar, the Broc¬ ken, the Rosstrappe, Vale of the Bode, and Alexisbad . . 408 ' 74. The Harz. — Nordhausen to 374 ; Magdeburg.416 i 74 n. Hamburg to Leipzig, by Magdeburg—R ail . . .418 384 I 368 388 390 393 394 399 403 ROUTE 56. LONDON TO HAMBURG. Steamboats start from London and from Hamburg Wednesday and Satur¬ day mornings : they set off so early in the morning that it is advisable to sleep on board the night before. The average passage is about 52 h., though it some¬ times takes 60 or 70. About 25 m. from the mouth of the Elbe lies the island of Heligoland (Germ. Helgoland), on which it is supposed stood the temple of the Frisic god Fosete, destroyed by St. Ludger in the 8th century on the conversion of the Frisians to Chris¬ tianity. Heligoland was ceded to Great Britain in 1807, and is now much frequented by the Germans for sea¬ bathing. Its pop. amounts to 3000. At the time when Napoleon had excluded England from the continent it was important as a war-station; and from its situation near the mouths of the rivers Elbe and Weser, it then be¬ came a considerable smuggling depot. Its male inhabitants are chiefly fisher¬ men, sailors, and pilots. The destruc¬ tion of its shores by the sea has been much exaggerated. It appears that ‘‘ the destruction in a century, for the whole circumference, was not more than 3 ft.” It appears also that in the time of Adam 332 ROUTE 56. —CUXHAVEN. ALTONA. HAMBURG. Sect. V. of Bremen, whose description is extant, the island was only a little larger than at present. 1. At the month of the Elbe stand the lighthouse and town of Cuxhaven , on a small angle of territory belonging to Hamburg. Vessels lie at anchor off this place waiting for favourable winds. It is a watering-place frequented by the inhabitants of Hamburg for sea¬ bathing. In winter, when the Elbe is frozen over, it is necessary to proceed from Hamburg by land to meet the steamers at Cuxhaven, a tedious and expensive journey, crossing the Elbe to Harburg, and descending its 1. hank. Is ext the sea, between the Elbe and the Elder, extends the district anciently called Ditmarschen , celebrated for its privileges and republican institutions ; resembling Holland in its marshes and sea-dykes, which preserve it from the inroad of the ocean. Beyond Cuxhaven, the 1. hank of the Elbe belongs to Hanover. At Stade, an Hanoverian town, a toll was levied by Hanover in virtue of an ancient imperial grant on vessels and cargoes passing up the Elbe, down to 1861, when it was abolished by treaty, on payment of compensation. The land on the rt. bank is the ter¬ ritory of the Duchy of Holstein; it rises in gentle slopes, covered, for some dis¬ tance below Hamburg, with wood, in¬ terspersed with handsome villas and gardens belonging to opulent merchants. On this side lies the small town of Gliickstadt, with 6000 Inhab., once a strong fortress, besieged in vain by Tilly and Torstenson, connected with Altona by Bailway. Higher up, the little fishing village of Blankenese, with its houses scattered along the slope and among the trees one above another, is passed; and above it, the town of rt. Altona ( Inn: Ilolsteinisches Haus), which joins Hamburg, and from the river seems to form a part of it. It has risen to great mercantile prosperity, perhaps to the prejudice of its neigh¬ bour, so that the Hamburgers say that its name agrees with its situation, as it is All-zu-nah (All too near). In commercial respects it is a perfectly free town, no duties being levied, and the custom-house line for Holstein runs outside of it. It is the most commercial and populous town in Holstein, having 45,600 Inhah. A Railroad runs from Altona to Kiel on the Baltic. (See Handbook for N. Europe , Denmark , &c.) A handsome Quag lias been con¬ structed at Hamburg along the Elbe, and the harbour has been deepened, hut passengers by sea-going steamers usually embark and disembark in boats to and from the vessel. rt. Hamburg. — Inns: Hotel de 1 ’Europe, very good—first-rate table- d’hote ; Hotel St. Petersburg, well situated ; Victoria Hotel; Streit’s Hotel; Zingg’s Hotel, opposite the Exchange; Alster Hotel. These are on the old and new Jungfernstieg and the Alsterdamm. Charges: bed and dinner 32 sch. each, breakfast 12 sch. i a bottle of wine 16 sch. Service 12 sch. Cafes: Alster Pavilion and Alster Halle, on the old and new Jungfern¬ stieg ; Zingg’s Cafe, cup of coffee 2 sch. Restaurant : Grubo Alt Jungfern¬ stieg. Hamburg is situated about 80 m. from the mouth of the Elbe, on its N. (rt.) bank, at the junction of a small stream called the Alster with the Elbe. Being a Free Town, the duties levied are so small that travellers are not bothered with any Custom-house examination on landing. Its Pop. is 180,000 (10,000 Jews, 3000 Bom. Cath.). The Current Coins are— \j U gr[ Mark C our ant ( = 16 Schil¬ lings) = 1 21 — 12 Double Mark — 2 5 Pieces of 8 Schillings =07 -4 Sch. = 0 3| 1 Schilling (9 pfg.) near = 01 Bix dollar (specie) =47 Mark Banco (imaginary) = 1 5f = 15 Most of these coins are so much worn that care is required in taking them: even the natives are sometimes puzzled to know what they are. Many of them are valueless out of Hamburg. The landlords at the hotels will generally change English money. The regular flciliJjefnqeisi, Obser Millet'll / Klblmht Lznduuf plo re < rCthe Steamer v -KuuiultI Haviep || Gv.G. (jtXtSJfC. IrlWlt f} M. Mai -ict, Mar'bri jj StSt+Stiwsse. Street Jh.TTitrt \ Gate IHAMBU 3 S.S . References 1 St Peter ... . . E c 2 SlHicholas . E d 3 St Michael. . C cl 4 Parse -Escchanqe. E d 5 S f . Catherine . E d 6 SfJacobi F o 7 JoTuumeum . E d 8 Poduigs Museum F 1) b 14 Thalia Theatre E c 15 Elbe Pavilion Re 16 Hew Post Office . I) c 17 Engl. Eiriscdpal Ch. C e \\" Elbhohe ., R e. % < ij \ ) pub * 1 c . Cemeter* eter' ie & |SXE 3 _ C-l i LJ Kn.gyavrd.cFk' J. & C .Waiter. Published by John Jlunsiy Albemarle Street London ' . Prussia. ROUTE 56. -HAMBURG. 333 money-changers arc very extortionate. The English sovereign usually realises 17 marks. Money accounts arc kept in marks and schillings. The marc banco and rix dollar banco are imaginary coins. The mark banco is to the current mark as 20 to 16. There arc pieces of 2 schil¬ lings, ^sch. (called a Sechsling), ~ sell. (Dreiling). The Pruss. dollar = 2 * i marks = 40 sch. 1 Danish mark =r 5 schillings. Piece of 8 Bigsbank skillings = 2 ^- sch. Hamburg is one of the four remain¬ ing Free Towns, and is chiefly remark¬ able for its excellent harbour, render¬ ing it the first trading seaport of Germany. It is intersected by canals, called Fleethen (Fleet ditches?), and in this respect, in the antiquated ap¬ pearance of its houses, and in the trees growing in its streets, bears a resem¬ blance, in the old part of the town, to the towns of Holland. The trade of Hamburg has enormously increased: its imports amount to 29,000,000/., and its exports to nearly 28,000,000/. sterling ! The average number of ves¬ sels entering the port in a year is nearly 5000, more than one-third of which arc British. The Elbe is navi¬ gable thus far for ships of consider¬ able burden, which can enter the har¬ bour and transfer their cargoes in barges to the merchants’ doors, whose ware¬ houses and dwellings generally adjoin. There are no docks. Much banking and funding business is done here ; be¬ sides which it is the depot for a large part of the exports and imports of the North of Europe. The sugar refineries have diminished of late. By the dreadful fire of 1842 Ham¬ burg sustained a calamity unequalled in extent in any European city since the fire of London. The conflagration broke out in the Deichstrasse, near the Elbe, on Thursday, May 5, from what cause is unknown, and raged until the following Sunday in spite of all efforts to oppose it; widening as it advanced until it had involved in destruction 2 sides of the Alster Basin, levelling almost all the buildings, public and private, over an area of many acres, nearly in the form of a triangle, sweep¬ ing down 1749 houses, 61 streets, be¬ sides courts and alloys, and even cross¬ ing the broad canal of the Alster. The churches of St. Nicholas, St. Peter, and St. Gertrude were consumed; the New Exchange, though surrounded by the flames, escaped uninjured. The sym¬ pathy caused by this event in all parts of the globe was proved by the voluntary subscriptions raised for the sufferers, amounting to near 400,000/., of which England contributed 41,000/. Besides this, immense sums were raised by loan, so that Hamburg has now the largest national debt, in proportion to its population, of any continental state, and is in this respect nearly on a par with Great Britain. Hamburg has profited by the calamity in the improvements introduced in lay¬ ing out the new buildings, the widening of streets, the establishment of water¬ works, the construction of sewers, and the filling up of stagnant ditches. A new and handsome Rathhaus (from G. G. Scott’s design) is to be built on one side of a new square fronting the Borse. The finest of the new buildings are near the Alster. The foundations are mostly of granite — the superstructure of brick and stucco. The designs show great variety, and sometimes beauty. The Breite-stmsse , one side of which alone was consumed, presents a curious con¬ trast of old and new houses. The Arcade opening out of the Jungfernstieg is deserving of attention for its extent and beauty. The objects chiefly calculated to at¬ tract a stranger’s attention arc, first, the Costumes seen in the streets of Ham¬ burg ; they arc not a little singular. Servant-girls, housemaids, and cooks, according to the custom of the place, rarely appear in public except in the gayest attire; with lace caps, long kid gloves, and a splendid shawl. The last article is elegantly arranged under the arm, so as to conceal a basket shaped like a child’s coffin, containing clothes, butter or cheese, or other articles pur¬ chased at market, as the case may be. The peasants who frequent the'market wear a very picturesque attire ; the}' are chiefly natives of a part of the Ham¬ burg territory bordering- on the Elbe, 334 ROUTE 56. —HAMBURG. JUNGFERNSTIEG. Sect. V. called Vierlandcn, which, is principally laid out in gardens, and supplies the j market with vegetables. Other peasant | women of the neighbourhood are dis- | tinguished by a small cap at the back of the head, covered with gold or silver embroidery, and a gaily decorated boddice. Funeral processions in Hamburg are not composed of friends of the deceased, hut of hired mourners, called liciten Diener , dressed in black, with plaited ruffs round their necks, curled and j powdered wigs, short Spanish cloaks, and swords. The same persons, whose number is limited to 16, attend at mar¬ riage-festivals, and form also a sort of body-guard to the magistrates. Their situations were formerly purchased at a high price, in consideration of the per¬ quisites and fees attached to them. Upon the death of a burgomaster or other personage of importance in the town, the town trumpeter, a civic officer, is set to blow a dirge from one of the steeples. The churches have little architectural beauty, excepting *St. Nicholas , in the Hopfenmarkt, a noble modern Gothic structure, built of stone from Osterwald and wdiite brick. It is to have a tower and spire at the W. end, of open work, intended to rise 452 feet high, and a smaller tower of rich architecture. The design is by the English architect G. G. Scctt. The altar, pulpit, and font are richly sculptured in white marble. St. Peter's has also been rebuilt, and is a fine lofty Gothic church. St. Michael's has one of the loftiest steeples in Europe, 456 ft. high, about 100 ft. higher than St. Paul’s in London (340 ft.), from which the town and the Elbe, nearly as far as the sea, Holstein on the N., and Hanover on the S., present themselves advantage¬ ously to view. It is also the station of the fire-w r atch (§ 43). The *Bdrse (Exchange ), a fine build¬ ing on the Adolphs Platz, is well de¬ signed. It was completed just before the fire, and escaped uninjured. It forms a noble hall 48 paces by 26, exclusive of the surrounding colon¬ nade. On the first floor are reading- I rooms, offices, &c., corresponding with j Lloyd’s in London, and called the Bor - j senhalle. A stranger can he introduced to read the papers and journals of all quarters of the globe. It is also the seat of the Commercium, or Board of Trade, of the Chamber of Commerce ( Handels - gericht ), presided over by 2 lawyers and 9 merchants as judges. Change com¬ mences at 1 o’clock, and it is worth while to see the crowd that comes thronging in at that hour. Opposite the Burse is the Bank of Hamburg. The Schulgebdude , erected 1834 on the site of the ancient Dom, includes the Johanneum , a college under the care of excellent professors, where a good classical and commercial education is given for 120 marks per annum. The Town Library , consisting of about 200,000 vols. and many curious MSS., has been removed to this building. The charitable institutions of Ham¬ burg are on a very munificent scale. The Orphan Asylum (AVaisenhaus) pro¬ vides for 600 children, who are received as infants, reared, educated, and bound apprentices to some useful trade. The Great Hospital (Krankenhaus), in the suburb of St. George, is capable of con¬ taining from 4000 to 5000 sick. The yearly cost of supporting this admirable institution is nearly 17,000h Its utility is not confined to the poor alone, as even persons of the higher classes resort to the hospital to avail themselves of the advantages of the excellent medical treatment which they may here obtain. Such patients are admitted as lodgers, on payment of a sum varying from 8 d. to 8s. a day. The Chapel contains a painting by Overbeck. The subject is Christ’s Agony in the Garden, with the 3 disciples sleeping below. The ar¬ rangement and attitudes are Giottesque, the colour thick and low. Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy, the lamented composer, was born here, 1809. The House of Klopstock the poet (1774-1803), No. 27 in the Konig- strasse, is rebuilt. The old and new *Jungfernstieg (Mai¬ den’s Walk) and the Alsterdamm arc broad walks around the sides of a basin of water formed by damming up the small river Alster. Here is the fashion¬ able promenade, especially resorted to Prussia. ROUTE 56. -HAMBURG. 335 in the summer evenings, when the sur¬ face of the water is covered with gaily painted boats filled with water parties. It is flanked on 3 sides by handsome rows of houses, and has a broad terrace all round its margin. At the j waterside are the two most frequented | cafes in the town, called Pavilions. There are floating baths on the Alster. The Stacit Theater is one of the largest in Germany, and the perform¬ ances and music generally very good. The play begins at 6^ and usually ends before 10. The Thalia Theater , Pferde Markt, is chiefly famed for comic pieces, and is a popular resort. The public * ball-rooms in and about the town, though not frequented by the most respectable classes, being often the resort of low company, deserve to be looked at as one of the peculiarities of the place. The best are the Elbe Pavilion, Apollo Saal, Peter A hr in’s Salon. Some of the cellars for sup¬ pers, beer, &c., are worth a visit. . The Hamburg hung beef is celebrated. The Ramparts no longer exist, being- levelled and converted into delightful boulevards or gardens, neatly laid out, which extend nearly round the town, and between the two Alster basins. The most pleasing view of the town and river, the shipping and opposite shore of the Elbe, presents itself from the eminence, at the extremity of these walks nearest to Altona, called the *Elbhohe, or Stintfang. In some parts of the town a portion of the poorer inhabitants live in cellars j under the houses. In winter, and after a prevalence of W. winds, which drive the waters of the German Ocean into the mouth of the Elbe, the tides rise to a great height (sometimes 20 ft.), some¬ times inundating the streets near the river. The tenants of these cellars are then driven from their habitations by the water, which keeps possession of them for days, leaving them filled with ooze, and in a most unhealthy condition from the moisture. The upper part of the house is let under condition that the occupiers of the cellars are to receive shelter at such seasons of calamity. Outside the Damm Gate, not far from the Jungfemstieg, is the public Cemetery , which deserves a visit, as ex¬ hibiting the customs and usages of Germany with regard to the resting- place of the dead (§ 45). Hamburg had once the misfortune to be a fortified town, and in conse¬ quence Avas subjected to the horrors of a siege from the French, and was twice occupied by their armies, who, under Davoust, in 1813, exercised the most cruel severities and atrocities upon the inhabitants. Here is a monumental sarcophagus to 1138 men, women, and children, who perished of cold and staiwation on that occasion, driven out of the toAvn in the depth of winter. The merchants of Hamburg are cele¬ brated for their hospitality and the goodness of their dinners, as all stran¬ gers can testify who arc well introduced. It is customary to give vails to servants in private houses ;—they expect at least tAvo marks from each visitor. The English residents here are very nume¬ rous, and their language is almost uni¬ versally understood 0A ? en by the Ger¬ mans. They have erected, with partial aid from the British Government, a Church for themselves, near the harbour. Reading Rooms .—Besides the Borsen- halle , mentioned already, at the Athe¬ naeum, Biicherstrasse, more than 150 newspapers and journals arc taken in. Entrance for a week, 1 mark. The best shops are upon the S. side of the Jungfemstieg, and the adjoining street, Neuer Wall. The principal Booksellers are Perthes, Bcsser, and Mauke, 13, Jungfemstieg; Behrendson, Alster Arcade, keeps Guide-books, Dictionaries, local prints, and photographs. Post Office .—The City post (the office for letters to and from England), the Thum and Taxis, the Hanoverian, and the Nonvegian and Swedish post- offices, are in a large building with a lofty tower, in the Poststrasse; the Prussian is close at hand in the Giinsemarkt; Mecklenburg and Den¬ mark P. 0. in the Grosse Bleiche. Consuls .—All the states of the NeAV and Old World are represented here. A British Charge d’Affaires and Consul- General and Vice-Consul, also a Consul- 336 ROUTE 56. —HAMBURG. ENVIRONS. Sect. V. General from the United States , reside | here. Most of the Consulate Offices are near the harbour. Hackney-coaches are called Drosldes. Fares: A drive in the town (1 or 2 persons) 8 sch.; by the hour, 1 marc; to the Harburg Steam-ferry, 14 sch.; every trunk, 4 sch.; to the Altona Stat., 12 sch. ; from the Berlin Stat. to Altona Stat., 1 marc. Omnibuses ply through the town by various routes, from the Schweine- markt to Altona and Bainville’s gar¬ den, fare 4 sch. Environs .—It is a very pleasant drive to descend the rt. bank of the Elbe from Altona to Blankenese. The slopes bordering on the river are studded with country seats of merchants, and possess considerable natural beauty. Between Hamburg and Altona runs a narrow strip of suburb called Vorstadt St. Pauli , partly occupied by low taverns and dancing-rooms: in fact, a sort of Wapping, extending to the gate of ' Altona. At the further end of Altona is the suburb of Ottensen , where the brave Duke of Brunswick died, in 1806, from the wound he had received in the battle of Jena. In the church¬ yard, by the side of the road, and under an umbrageous elm, is The Tomb of Klopstoch , author of the ‘ Messiah. ’ Here is also a monument to the 1138 Hamburgers who perished in 1813-14, during the siege and occupation of Hamburg by the French, and arc in¬ terred here in one common grave—the subject of a pretty poem by Buckert. Farther on is Rainville’s Tavern and garden, overlooking the Elbe—“ The Star and Garter” of the Hamburgers. The house itself was inhabited succes¬ sively by Dumouriez and Bourrienne. The view is fine, the cuisine very toler¬ able, and in fine summer afternoons very respectable company repair hither to dine or take coffee. On the hills sloping towards the Elbe are the country seats of the Hamburg Senators •—the Jenischs, Parishes (Nieustadten), and Godeffroys (Dockenhuden)—with beautiful grounds. Siillberg is a fine point of view. At Blankenese, about 9 m. from Hamburg, Mr. Bauer’s Plea¬ sure Grounds , laid out in the Dutch taste, thrown open to the public, are a frequented resort of the Hamburgers. In an opposite direction, about 3 m. N.E. from Hamburg, lies the Holstein village of Wandsbeck , in a very pretty situation. Tycho Brahe the astrono¬ mer lived in the chateau, now pulled down, and Yoss the poet also resided here. In the churchyard is the grave of Claudius. The Rauhe Haus at Horn, founded by Dr. AVichcrn, is a Befonnatory for unprotected children, carried on with benevolence and success, 3 m. from Hamburg, on the road to Bergedorf. Steamboats across the Elbe to Har¬ burg 8 times a day (Bte. 59) ;—to London, Tuesday and Friday at night; in winter they start from Cuxliaven;— to Hull, 4 times a week, average pas¬ sage 42 hours ;—to Havre, once a tveek, in 50 or 60 hrs.;—to Cuxhaven, 4 times a week, in 6 or 8 hrs.;—to Heli¬ goland, 2 or 3 times a week. Schnellpost daily to Bremen (Bte. 60). Railroads to Berlin (Bte. 61) ; —to Lubeck ;—to Kiel, Bendsburg, Ton- ning, Schleswig, and Flensburg, (from Altona) ( see Handbook of N. Europe'). Care should be taken to allow plenty of time for reaching the station of the Kiel railway, which is a considerable distance from Hamburg, and the dros- kies are very slow and uncertain con¬ veyances.— To Hanover. (Bte. 59). Travellers are conveyed by steamer to the station at Harburg for the Hanover line. Prussia. ROUTE 57. —HAMBURG TO LUBECK. 337 ROUTE 57. HAMBURG TO LUBECK AND TRAVEMuNDE. —RAILWAY. About 56 Eng. m. Trains in 2A hrs. A direct line of rail through the territory of Holstein is in progress. The quickest way to Liibeck is to follow the Berlin railway as far as Biiclien Stat. (Rtc. 61), whence a branch railway is carried up the valley of the Stecknitz, passing Molln on a lake traversed by the railway (where Till Eulenspiegel is reported to have breathed his last, 1350, and his grave is shown). Ratzeburg Stat. This town (not seen from the stat.) was once a bishop’s see, and is situated on an island in the midst of a lake connected with the shore by a causeway, the slopes around richly wooded with beech. The Cathedral is entirely of brick of the 12th century. The territory belonging to Liibeck begins about 6 m. from its walls: it is limited, comprehending altogether 53,000 Inhab., and is bounded by Hol¬ stein, Lauenburg, and Mecklenburg. Liibeck Stat. is close to the * Holstein Thor , which is approached by a bridge over the Travc. It is flanked by 2 conic-roofed round towers of red and glazed brick in patterns, with arcades. The outer gate was built 1585; the inner gate, an interesting specimen of feudal fortification, unaltered, but dila¬ pidated, in 1477. The rly. has caused the removal of part of the old walls. Lubeck.— Inns: Stadt Hamburg; very good : bed, 1 mark 8 schillings; breakfast, 12 scliill.; dinner, with bottle of wine and coffee, 2 marks 12 sch.;— H. de l’Europc, also good : table-d’hote at 3 o’clock, 1 mark 8 sch.; — Fiinf Thiirme (5 towers);—Stadt London. [N. 0.] Money. Accounts are kept in marks courant and schillings as at Hamburg, except banking accounts, which are in marks banco. The small current coin is as much worn as at Hamburg, and is valueless out of Liibeck. The Casino has a reading-room well supplied with papers, to which strangers can obtain access. The Free Ilansc Town and seaport of Lubeck is built on a ridge between the rivers Trave and Wackenitz, which en¬ tirely surround its walls, and has a population of 31,000 souls; including its surrounding territory, 53,000. Lu¬ beck was built by the Emp. Conrad, a.d. 1066. It was repeatedly destroyed by the Danes. In the commencement of the 13th cent, it was declared a free Imperial city by the Emp. Frederick II. At a later period it entered into, and subsequently became the most con¬ siderable of the towns forming tho Hanseatic League, and as such de¬ served the name of the Carthage of the North. For full 4 centuries, from 1260 to 1669, Lubeck maintained that pro¬ minent position, the seat of the govern¬ ment of the Confederation, the re¬ pository of its archives, and the station of its fleet, to the command of which she was entitled to appoint one of her own citizens. From the dissolution of the League, however, her importance diminished, and her commerce decayed, until she dwindled into tho existing state of insignificance, and which is made evident to tho stranger by the deserted and grass-grown streets and the numerous empty houses. After the fatal defeat of Jena (1806), Blucher, retreating with the wreck of the Prussian army, and hotly pursued by 3 French generals, Bernadotte, Soult, and Murat, threw himself into this unfortunate.town, in spite of the remonstrances of its senate and citizens, and thereby involved it in his own ruin. A bloody engagement com¬ menced outside the walls, but con¬ tinued through the streets, and ended in the expulsion of the Prussians, and in the sacking and pillage of Liibeck for 3 days. Tho French army of 75,000 men was long quartered upon the town to complete its ruin and misery. Q 338 Sect. V. ROUTE 57. —LUBECK. THE DOM. It is an interesting town, prettily situated. Its haven, enlivened by ships and steamers, is hounded on one side by the quay and its picturesque or gro¬ tesque old houses and magazines, and on the other side by the lofty Ramparts , probably some of the largest mounds of earth ever raised; planted with avenues and laid out with walks and chives, from which the eye looks down on the water and shipping. Liibcck is one of the most picturesque old towns in Germany, its buildings being almost entirely of brick, and deserves more attention than is usually given to it by travellers. In external appearance its buildings have undergone little change since the 15th cent. Its houses, dis¬ tinguished by their quaint gables, and often by the splendour of their archi¬ tecture, its feudal gates, its Gothic chinches, and its venerable Rathhaus, all speak of the period of its prosperity as an imperial free city. Principal Buildings: —The *Dom or Cathedral , at the S. end of the town (begun 1170, and finished, after inter¬ ruptions, 1341), almost entirely of brick, is surmounted by 2 W. towers with spires 300 ft. high. The N. porch is of rich moulded brick: Dec. in style. It contains, in its side chapels, the monuments of many of the patrician families of Liibeck, and, in the choir, the tombs of numerous bishops and canons. The screen of the choir is perhaps one of the best existing specimens of wood carving of the early German school, about the period of Lucas Cranach. The figures are the size of life, full of expression, and ad¬ mirably executed. Rut the finest work of art in Liibeck is in one of the cha¬ pels in the N. aisle. It is an altar- piece with wings, covered with a double set of shutters. Outside the outer pair the Annunciation is represented in gri¬ saille. The first pair of shutters being- opened, St. Blaize, St. John, St. Jerome, and St. TEgidius are seen—noble and grave figures, executed in the most finished manner, and with the richest colours. When the second pair of shut¬ ters is opened, the Pictures of the Pas¬ sion are seen in 3 compartments, each having a principal subject; but Mending, as was usual with the early masters, both German and Italian, has introduced, in no less than 23 distinct groups placed in the background, many of the events previous and accessory to the principal event set forth. The main group on the shutter on the left hand of the spec¬ tator represents Christ bearing his Cross, and the preceding events, beginning with the agony in the garden, are de¬ picted in the background. In the centre is the Crucifixion; and on the other shutter on the rt. are two groups nearly equally important, the Entombment and the Resurrection; the subsequent events until the Ascension being seen in the background. It is a marvel of art, wonderful for composition, expres¬ sion, colour, and finish. The picture is dated 1491, and not signed, but there can be no doubt of its being one of the best works of Memling. It is in the finest state, and was carefully washed and revarnished in 1845. It escaped a journey to Paris by being concealed in the roof of the Cathedral. The stone pulpit , with panels of ala¬ baster (1568), and brass font (1455), are both of excellent workmanship. According to a tradition, this church is built on the spot where Henry the Lion, while engaged in the chase, fell in with a stag- having a cross growing between its horns, and a collar of jewels around its neck, with the produce of which the first church here was built. The legend is commemorated in two rude frescoes on the S. side of the nave. Among other curiosities is the bronze effigy of Bishop Bockholt in a reclining position, which adorns his monument, and a richly engraved Brass of 2 bishops who died 1317 and 1350. It is pro¬ bably the finest specimen extant of Flemish Brass engraving of the 14th cent. Observe likewise here the circular vaulting in the nave and cross, under¬ pinned and pointed; pews, cloister and hall, the N. porch, and the rooclloft. The finest building in Liibeck is the *Marienhirche, date 1304, of elegant pointed Gothic, the most part of brick, even to the reeded piers, which are of moulded brick. It is surmounted by 2 W. towers 50 ft. square at the base, supporting timber spires 344 ft. 339 Prussia, route 57 . —lubeck. maiuenkirche. rathhaus. high. It has three aisles, and the centre roof rises to the unusual height of 134 ft. The objects to he noticed in it are the Chapel at the E. end, resembling Bechet’s Crown at Canter¬ for Lubeck antiquities, is a fine ch., and retains many altars and ornaments untouched, a good rood, and old paint¬ ings ; also old ch. plate, embroidered altar-cloths and vestments of 13th and bury; a handsome brass screen all round the choir; a Dance of Death , dated 1463, curious for the costumes of the period represented in it, as well as for its being painted 35 years before the time of Holbein; the organ and carved woodwork of the Burgomasters’ seats ; the beautiful brass font (date 1335) and sacrament house; a crocketted pinnacle of bronze about 40 ft. high (date 1472). Obs. a chapel on the S. side, whose vault is supported by slender shafts of granite, each a single stone 38 ft. long; and the painted glass of the windows, by an Italian artist, Fr. Livi, who afterwards (1436) furnished those for the Duomo in Florence. Observe behind the altar, against the N. wall, a very fine oldpainting attributed to Jan Mostraet (date 1518), in three divisions with shutters: on the outside Adam and Eve; within, the Nativity, the Adoration of the Magi, and the Flight into Egypt. Another triptych displays, when opened, elabo¬ rate carvings in wood of figures and Gothic tracery,—all gilt except the flesh,—representing events from the Gospel history. Here are several en¬ graved Brasses , Flemish and German —one of Bruno v. Warcndorf, Admiral of the Hanse fleet (d. 1369). The lion of the valets de place is a clock, behind the high altar, constructed in 1405, which sends forth at noon figures of the 7 Electors, who march in review before the statue of the Emperor: each as it passes makes a reverential obeisance, and then disappears. Overbeck is a na¬ tive of Liibeck, and two of his most esteemed pictures are in this church— Christ’s entry into Jerusalem, painted in 1824; and an Entombment, in 1845. The Ileiligengeist Spital , a hospital of the 14th cent., consisting of a group of tenements under one huge roof, founded 1312 for 80 poor persons, has a singular but pretty W. front, and ante- chapel with curious old paintings, pul¬ pit, &c. The Katharinen Kirche , though now desecrated and turned into a receptacle and 14th centuries, and a fine Brass of the Luneburg family (1461-74). The Crypt , unusually lofty, and above ground, is laid open. The architect should visit the Jacobs and Egidi Kit¬ chen (with the ruined Ivloster). The * Gothic Rathhaus , on the market¬ place, close to the Marienkirche, is a sin¬ gular building of brick. Its fronts are formed by lofty screen-walls, in courses of red unglazed and dark-green glazed bricks, completely hiding the roofs, and supporting pinnacles at intervals. The N. end is probably as old as the 13th century. The E. front, of the 14th. It has been much altered. The street en¬ trance is by a vestibule of very neat and elegant design. The bronze figures on the door (added 1352) are very curious ; upstairs is a gallery with good elliptic vaulting. Within its walls in ancient times the deputies from 85 cities in Ger¬ many, who composed the Hanseatic League , held their deliberations. Here were concerted those wise measures which raised the confederation from humble beginnings to a height of power and wealth which not only enabled it to establish factories in all the great cities of Europe, including Bergen, Novgo¬ rod, Bruges, and London, but obtained for it the supremacy of the ocean, enabling it to wage successful war against neighbouring states, with an army of its own 50,000 strong, to depose powerful monarehs and form treaties with great kingdoms. The beautiful Hall of the Hansa, in which this coun¬ cil met, is divided into small rooms ; and the Rathskeller, (date 1443), is modernised by the Restaurateur who occupies it, but has a fine vaulted roof. The senate of the town now assemble in the lower story. The presiding Burgomaster rejoices in the title of u your Magnificence,” the learned Senators are addressed “ high wise,” and the merchant Senators “ well wise Sirs.” In the Marketplace is a stone upon which Mark Meyer, an admiral of Lii- Q 2 340 ROUTE 58. —HAMBURG TO STRALSUND, Sect. V. beck, was beheaded for running away from the Danish fleet. One of the most curious buildings in the town is the *Schiffer Innung , (1535), or shipowners’ guild, nearly unaltered inside and out, and still in use. The lower story is entirely oc¬ cupied by one large hall with curious carvings, divided into 3 aisles by rows of stalls, with models of famous ships of Liibeck, old chandelier, &c., sus¬ pended from the roof. Besides Overbeck, mentioned above, Sir Godfrey Kncller and the brothers Adrian and Isaac van Ostade were born here ; their houses are still pointed out, as well as that in which Count Struensee lived, near the Cathedral. The Hospital zum Ileiligcn Geist is a well-managed institution dating from 13th cent., and the handsome edifice contains fine wood-carvings. Well-executed carvings in wood (1573-85), by an unknown artist, orna¬ ment one of the rooms in the house of the Kaufleute-Compagnie, No. 800 in the Breitenstrasse. The Burg Thor is a very curious and at the same time ornamental building. Until the French gained possession of Liibeck, no Jews were tolerated within the town; they were banished to the neighbouring village, Moisling, which they still occupy almost exclusively. The trade of the town is con¬ siderable, chiefly consisting in the ex¬ port of grain produced in the neigh¬ bouring districts, and in imports of wine, colonial produce, and manufac¬ tures of its own consumption, and that of the surrounding countries. Great trade is also carried on in goose-quills for pens. A handsome new town has risen up on the N. since 1854. The depth of the Trave at Liibeck has been greatly increased by dredging, so that the large steamers to St. Peters¬ burg, Copenhagen, Stockholm, and Dob- bei’an, start from hence. There is a fine avenue of lime-trees for some distance from the town on the Travemunde road. 10 m. below Lii- beclc (steamers twice a day) is Travemunde (i. e. the Mouth of the Trave), the former port of Liibeck, ft pretty small bathing-place, much re¬ sorted to in summer by Germans of the upper classes. Inns: II. de Rus- sie; Stadt Liibeck, a bath-house with reading-room and library ; Stadt Ham¬ burg ; both good and having restaurants attached. There are bathing-machines on the shore in the English fashion (called English bath-coaches), and warm sea-baths, which cost 24 schillings. Steam-boats. — Berths may be secured at the offices at Liibeck :—to St. Peters¬ burg once a week, from the middle of May to the middle of October;—to Copenhagen thrice a week, in about 20 h.; and to Stockholm once a week. Persons going by steam to St. Peters¬ burg must have their passports signed by the Russian Consul before they can secure a berth. For all particulars re¬ specting a journey in Northern Europe, see Handbook for Denmark , Norway , Sweden , and Russia. Eilwagen daily in 10 hrs. to Kiel . (See Handbook of Denmark .) ROUTE 58. HAMBURG TO STRALSUND, BY SCIIWERTN, DOBBERAN, AND ROSTOCK. 36 Germ. m. = 172 Eng. m. Rail to Rostock in 65 hrs. ; thence Schnellpost daily to Stralsund in 8 to 9 hrs. The railway from Hamburg to Berlin (Rte. 61) is followed as far as 12^ Ilagenow Junct. Stat., whence the Mecklenburg Railway leads in £ hour to 4g Schwerin Stat. (Inns: II. du Nord; Stadt Hamburg; Stern’s Hotel), capital of the Grand Duchy of Mecklenburg- Prussia. 341 ROUTE 58. —HAMBURG TO STRALSUND. Schwerin, 22,920 Inhab., prettily situ¬ ated on the Lake of Schwerin, which is 14 nr. long. The Bom is one of the finest Gothic churches in N. Germany ; begun 1248, finished in the 15th cent., restored 1853. The chapel of the Sacred Blood—the burial-place of the Grand Ducal family—has been orna¬ mented with paintings by Cornelius, and stained glass windows. The monument of the Duchess Helena (1524), of bronze (the arms of Mecklenburg and the Palatinate), was cast by Peter Vischer. Here are 2 very fine engraved brasses of Flemish work, each of them to 2 bishops of the family Biilow, 1314-75. One of these is the largest known, measuring 14 ft. The Duke’s picture gallery , Alcxan- drinen St., No. 1025, consists chiefly of Dutch and French works, and is shown daily (except Tues. and Sat.) 11-2. Rubens , 2 daughters; P. Potter , 2 cows ; G. Dow , the Dentist; 8 por¬ traits by Benner. The Antiquarium contains objects of antiquity found in Mecklenburg. The Palace (Schloss), a vast edifice on an island, built 1845-58 on the site of an old castle, is of sumptuous archi¬ tecture. The gardens behind serve as a public 'walk. A grand Arsenal and barrack was built 1844, near the Stat. The Railway quits the lake on leaving Schwerin, to return to its mar¬ gin at Ivlcinen Junct. Stat. [Whence a branch line diverges (1.) to 2 Wismar Stat. (Inn, Post), a sea¬ port, with 13,130 Inhab., and lying- at the extremity of a bay which forms one of the best harbours in the Baltic. The 3 churches are large, and fine specimens of brick-work. In St. Mary is a curi- ous bronze font, within a railing of iron, wrought, it is said, by the devil. Obs. close to it some ornamented buildings of brick-work; the Furstenhof date 1554. Rennaissance ornaments in brick-work and several houses of the 14th cent. Steamer to Copenhagen twice a week in 14-1G hrs.] [Between Wismar and Rostock lies 2 Robberan ,— (Runs : Grosse Logier- haus ; Lindenhof,) Dobberan is a small market-town of 2200 Inhab., in sight of the Baltic, in a pretty country. It is a sea-bathing place, in a quiet rural situation, but has fallen off of late. It contains a Palace of the Grand Duke of Mecklenburg-Schwerin, sur¬ rounded by a park and garden, and an old Gothic Church , in which are monuments of the Grand Ducal family. The Gesellschaftshaus contains ball and concert rooms, adjoining the Pavilion in which the great dining-room is situated. Omnibus daily to the Baths , about 3 m. distant, on the sea-shore, at Der Pkeilige Bamm , so called from a huge bank of shingle, on which a bath-house and lodging-houses have been built for those who prefer residing on the spot.] The Rostock railway is carried near to Biitzow, on the Warnow, and fol¬ lows the course of that stream to Rostock Stat.—Inns ; H. de Russie ; H. du Nord, good and cheap. This is the largest and most populous town in Mecklenburg—a flourishing seaport, with much trade and shipbuilding ; it stands on the Warnow, has 26,400 In- | hab., and resembles Liibeck somewhat ! in the antiquity of its buildings. It is the birthplace of General Blucher; his statue of metal is placed in the square named after him, Blucher’s Platz. The house in which he was born, 1742, still exists in the Alt-bet- telmonchstrasse. The great Ch. of St. Alary is very light and tall, date ; about 1300 ; its curious brass font, supported on kneeling figures, dates from 1390. Inscriptions on each side of S. door in low German and Latin barely intelligible. The house in which Grotius died, 1645, is in one corner of the market-place, close to tkcRatkhaus. The Rathhaus , with its 7 pinnacles, is a singular building, resembling that of Stralsund, but is much altered. Obs. in the Hopfenmarkt an old house with bas-reliefs of baked clay in its front. The ramparts on the S. side are curious and form pleasant walks. The Uni¬ versity of Rostock was founded in 1419 ; there are not more than 150 students. Kcppler was professor here for a short time, appointed by Wallenstein, then Duke of Mecklenburg. A pleasant walk of § hour leads from 342 Sect. V. ROUTE 59. —HAMBURG TO HANOVER. the quay, by the side of the harbour, along the old town walls, and round the deep ditches of the ancient fortress: against the S. wall rises a tower, erected 1618, by Tycho Brahe, for an Observatory. Warnemiinde, on the shore of the Baltic, at the mouth of the "Warnow (9 m.), is the port of Bostock, and is frequented by about 4000 visitors in summer for sea-bathing. Schnellpost daily to Stralsund in 10^- hours. Fine forests. The road is good as far as 3£ Ribnitz, on the backwater called Saaler-Bodden. tj Dammgarten, on the Rechnitz river, which forms the boundary-line between Mecklenburg and Prussian Pomerania. 3£ Stralsund in Rtc. 76 ROUTE 59. HAMBURG TO HANOVER, BRUNSWICK, OR HILDESHEIM. Railway from Harburg. Trains twice a-day, in 5 hrs. The country over which it passes is desolate and monotonous, chiefly heath. Steamers. —8 times a-day, in 1 hr., from Hamburg across the Elbe, to Ilarburg (Inns .‘ Konigvon Schweden, good; Bahnhofs Restauration), on its left bank, a rapidly increasing town of 4000 Inhab. Passengers are landed from the steamer about a mile from the station upon an island, united by a wooden bridge to the town, which they do not enter. The Anew from the Sell Avar zo Berg, behind Harburg, is fine. Diligence to Bremen, Stade, and Verden. Bardowieck, skirted by the railway, was the most important trading town in the N. of Germany before Hamburg arose. Only a fragment of its ancient Dom ch. is preserved. Win sen Stat. Liineburg Stat.—Inns: Iloffnimg ;—• Stadt Hamburg; — Deutsches Haus, clean and moderate. L. 67.—This is a most interesting old town: though de¬ cayed and little visited, it was formerly the capital of a duchy, has still 14,800 Inhab., and retains the aspect of its pri¬ mitive antiquity. The *Rathhaus, though altered outside, is a real museum of art. The interior abounds in fine glass paint¬ ing, carved chandeliers, tapestry, embroi¬ dery, frescoes. The most important feature is the new Council Chamber , en¬ tirely covered with fine compositions from sacred and profane history, by Albert of Soest (1566-68), of very great merit. Here is preserved a curious specimen of goldsmith’s work, the Biirgcreid crystal, an enamelled relic- box, with a rock crystal on the top, upon which the burghers of Liineburg placed their thumb when required to take an oath. It is the work of Hans v. Lift art, 1444. In another apartment is preserved, under lock and key, the corporation plate ; many of the vessels are master¬ pieces of goldsmith’s work of the 15th cent., and there is a Madonna of silver 2 ft. high. The Church of St. John , an interesting Gothic edifice, 14th cent., composed, as well as the lofty spire which surmounts it, of brick or terracotta, contains many relics of better days. Many of the gable-faced houses are lino specimens of domestic Gothic; many of them retain in front the orna¬ mented posts, with coats of arms, which marked the residence of the magis¬ trates, Prussia. ROUTE 60.—HAMBURG TO BREMEN', 343 Here are salt springs and salt-works. Old walls. Bienenbiittel Stat. Bevensen Stat. Uelzen Stat. Suterberg Stat. Escbedc Stat. Celle Stat.-— Inns, Hannoverisclier Hof; Sandkrug. A town of 14,000 Inliab., on the Aller, in the midst of a sandy plain. The Poj/al Palace , repaired, has a fine chapel. In the French garden stands a mediocre monu¬ ment to Matilda Queen of Denmark, sister of George III., who died here. The ancient Parish Ch. contains the burial-vault of the house of Brunswick - Liineburg. From one of its dukes, Ernest of Celle, who is buried here, the two houses of Hanover and Bruns¬ wick, including the Royal Family of England, are descended. The King of Hanover has a splendid Stud here. 3 m. from Celle is the old Convent "Wienhausen, containing in its c-h. curious tapestries and painted glass. Burgdorf Stat. Lehrte June. Stat.—Here 4 lines meet, from Harburg, Hildesheim, Hanover, and Brunswick, and passengers are transferred from one train to another : they must therefore take care that they get into the right one. For the route from Lehrte W. to Hanover, or E. to Brunswick, see Rte. 66. The railway runs southward to Hildesheim Station, Rte. 72. Much moorland (the Luneburger Heidc) is passed. ROUTE 60. HAMBURG TO BREMEN AND OLDENBURG. 22f Germ. m. = 109^- Eng. m. A good road, traversed by a schnell- post daily, in 12 hrs. to Bremen. You may go round by rail, via Harburg and Hanover, in 9 hrs.; fare, 7 thalers. 14 Harburg. See preceding Route. 3| Tostedt.—Inn small, but tolerable. 3;f Rothenburg. — Inn clean and comfortable. 2i Ottersberg. 3^ Bremen, in Rte. 690 tvv _v_4 Diligence to Delmonhorst Sandersfeld. 1 -LAAIl^CJJLUU l j Oldenburg. 2 Oldenburg.—Inn : Erb Gross-IJer- zog, best. A very dull town, in a flat country, on the small river Ilunte, which is navigable up to the town. Capital of the Grand Duchy, with 8000 Inhab. The chief buildings are the Grand Duke’s Palace , of antique architecture, furnished in a moderate style, and containing some very poor paintings by Tisclibein. In a detached building behind the palace is a gallery of pictures, some of which bear great names ; but it is difficult to fix on any which make the collection worth a visit. Near the palace is a beautiful garden and park, and the Church of St. Lambert. Eiliivagen to Bremen daily in 4 hrs. Communication between Oldenburg and Bremen is kept up iji summer by steamers, and considerable works have been executed on the 'NYeser below Bremen, in order to increase the depth of water. A small steam-boat leaves Oldenburg early in the morning, and descends the Ilunte to Elsfleth, where the passengers are transferred to larger boats, going up to Bremen and down 344 ROUTE 61. —HAMBURG TO BERLIN. Sect. V to Bremerhafen: having received the passengers who have arrived from those places, it returns to Oldenburg. The steamer which meets that from Olden¬ burg at Elsfleth leaves Bremen early in the morning. ROUTE 61. HAMBURG TO BERLIN.—RAILWAY. 38 Pruss. m. = 178 Eng. m.—Trains in 8 or 9 hrs. rt. on leaving Hamburg Stat., sec the tower of the waterworks. The line is carried across the marsh¬ land on the north of the Elbe through the district of Vierland (four lands, so called from its having 4 villages), re¬ markable for its market gardens, and the picturesque costume of its peasantry, who are believed to be the descendants of a Dutch colony. 2*1 Germ. m. Bergedorf Stat.—A village on the confines of the Ham¬ burg territory. The country traversed is, for the most part, entirely flat. It is a portion of that great plain of sand which extends almost uninterruptedly from Holstein to St. Petersburg. Generally speaking, it has a character of extreme barren¬ ness, producing little but heath and scanty plantations of fir. The whole of this vast plain is scattered over with rounded fragments of slate and granifi rocks, such as nowhere exist in situ be¬ tween the Elbe and Baltic, nor any¬ where nearer than the mountains o' Norway and Sweden, from whence they must have been torn, and transported over the Baltic, but whether by some vast current of water, or by icebergs oi glaciers, are questions on which geolo¬ gists arc not agreed. These boulders occur above and below the surface, from the size of a pebble to that of a house. •5 Reinbeck Stat. • 9 Fricdrichsruhe Stat. 1 *4 Schwarzenbeck Stat. ; a great deal of fir forest. 1 • 4 Biichen Stat.—1. [The branch Railway to Liibeck (Rte. 57). A branch line is carried S. from here to the Elbe! at Lauenburg. — Inns: Rathskeller; ; Schwan. A town of 3400 Inhab. upon the Elbe, where the K. of Denmark used to levy tolls on all vessels passing the ! Elbe.] The canal of the Stecknitz, joining i the Elbe to the Baltic, crossed by the railway near Btichen Stat., is one of the oldest in Europe. We enter the terri¬ tory of Mecklenburg-Schwerin, a few miles before reaching 1*8 Boitzcnburg Stat. (KLepper’sInn is tolerable), a small town upon the Elbe. Here, and at the small fortress of Domitz, the Duke of Mecklenburg exacts a productive toll, though only a narrow slip of his territory touches the river at these points. A large part of Mecklenburg is fer¬ tile corn-land, contrasting remarkably with the sandy deserts of Lauenburg, near Hamburg, and the dreary waste around Berlin. Upon the heaths and commons numerous flocks of geese are fed, which furnish a large portion of Europe with quills, and the inhabitants of this country with a delicacy called goose-breasts, consisting of that part of the bird smoked and cured like bacon. 1 • 8 Brahlsdorf Stat. 2 • 6 Hagenow Junct. Stat. Hence the Mecklenburg Railway diverges N. to Schwerin, Wismar, and Rostock. (Rte. 58.) 2*8 Ludwigslust Stat. {Inn, II.de Weimar), a town of 4000 Inhab., the summer residence of the Grand Duke TE> Ttp 3 iEj 1 Hoy at Palace . 2 Late- King# . private residence 3 Museum . 4 Royal Library ... . 5 University . Arsenal 7 Guard house 8 Pal. of Montyoiv 9 P. of Pr. of Prussia 10 P. of Pr. Carl. . 31 P of Pr. Albert C 4 H .LI SI 12 RaczinsTd Picture . A 3 13 Cathedral . D 3 (14 Garrison Ch .. D 3 lb Catholic Ch . C 4 16 S'Nicholas . D 4 17 FriedrichswercLer Ch.C 4 18 French Ret'. Ch . ..C 4 19 Ihe Rene Kirche ,.C 4 20 CPeters Ch .. D 4 21 Taubstummerv Inst. C 2 22 R. Iron foundry . B 1 23 R. China mctnufS... B 5 24 Fine Arts AcacLJ.... ..C 4 25 Architect} Acad f . ..C 4 |26 Gewerbe Schule ... C 6 27 Opera house... C 4 28 R. Play-house . ..C 4 29 Konigstadlisches ThJL 3 HOLaqet'haus . E 3 Cornelius Studio _A* 3 General Post office D 3 Statue of Frederick the Great . C 4 34 Bethany .F 6 John. Murra Street London 1 Mile J. Sr CJPfaDoer Sculp. 1 i! Prussia. route 61 . —gadebusch. spandau. 34o of Mecklenburg-Schwerin, whose Pa¬ lace is the principal building. It con¬ tains a small cabinet of pictures , among them some good specimens of the Dutch school, and a collection of Slavonic antiquities, chiefly found in Mecklen¬ burg. Many were dug up on the site of the Temple of Radegast. Attached to the palace are a spacious park and garden. The Russian chapel, contain¬ ing the mausoleum of the Archduchess Helena, might interest those who have never before seen a chapel dedicated to the service of the Greek Church. The Stables of the Grand Duke are extensive. He possesses a fine stud, and pays great attention to the im¬ provement of the breed. At the village of Wobbelin, on the road to Schwerin, is a cast-iron monu¬ ment to Komer, the German Tyrtreus, poet and warrior, who fell in an action near Gadebusch, fighting against the French, 1813, a few hours after com¬ posing his celebrated u Schwerdtlied.” llis remains rest under an oak, where they were interred by his brothers in arms, and a monument of cast-iron marks his grave. [At Gadebusch, said to be named from the Grove of the God (Gottes-Busch) Radegast, which stood here, is a curi¬ ous brick church of the 12th cent. The circular W. window has tracery of bronze, and is called Radegast’s crown, from a tradition that it was made out of the idol’s crown. In the king’s chapel is buried Albert of Mecklenburg, King of Sweden until defeated at Fal- koping by Margaret of Denmark, 1388. Obs. a picture of him and a brass of his wife Helena of Brunswick.] 1 Grabow Stat., a small town of Mecklenburg, containing large store¬ houses for butter, which is sold in great quantities at 6 fairs held here annually. The Prussian frontier is crossed a little way beyond Grabow, but the Custom-house examination takes place at Berlin. The railway then bends S. towards the Elbe, which it reaches at 4*9 Wittenberge Stat. (not to be confounded with Luther’s burial-place, Rte. 63). From Wittenberge a Rly. branches off to Magdeburg and Leipsic, crossing the Elbe. (Rte. 74b.) 1 • 8 Wilsnack Stat. Very old ch. here. 1 • 5 Glowen Stat. 2 Zernitz Stat. (for Kyritz and Witt- stock.) 1 Neustadt on the Dosse Stat. [About 12 m. E. of this, near Neu Ruppin, is the Chateau of Rheinsberg , where Frederick the Great spent many of his youthful years, and, according to his own account, the happiest of his life. Ziethen, one of the generals of the Seven Years’ War, was buried at Wustrau.] 1 • 8 Friesak Stat. [At Fehrbellin, 9 m. N.E. of Frie- sack, the great Elector of Brandenburg, in 1675, gained a decisive victory, with 5000 cavalry, over the Swedes, 11,000 strong, by which he laid the foundation of the future greatness of the House of Brandenburg.] 1 • 7 Paulinenau Stat. 1 * 8 Nauen Stat.— Inns: Stadt Ham¬ burg ; Golden Stern. A town of 3050 inhab. The greater part of it was destroyed by fire in 1830. 3 * 2 Spandau Stat. — Inn: Rother Adler. A strongly fortified town of . 7000 Inhab., at the junction of the Spree with the Havel, which is here crossed by the railway. These rivers afford the means of inundating the surround- " ing country, in the event of a hostile attack. Its citadel stands on an island. The Church of St. Nicholas , a Gothic edifice of the 16th cent., contains several curious monuments, and a very ancient metal font. The Peniten¬ tiary , once the Palace of the Electors of Brandenburg, is admirably managed, and is capable of containing 500 pri¬ soners. rt. About 3 m. before reaching Ber¬ lin the railway crosses the Spree, and near this are the Palace and Gardens of Charlottenburg. (Seep. 350.) Berlin Stat. near the Cemetery of the Invalids, outside the Neu Thor, and not far from the Model Prison (Zcllen- Gefangniss). 1*5. Berlin. — Inns: *H. du Nord, one of the best;—H. de Romo (Stadt Rom);—*11. de Petersburg, very good; Q 3 346 ROUTE 61. —BERLIN. INNS. EXHIBITIONS* Sect. V. —Mcinhart’s Hotel, highly respectable and moderate ; — H. Victoria ; — H. Royal; — British Hotel: all situated Unter den Linden. H. do Russie et d’Angleterre, near tho Bau-Academie, highly recommended;—II. des Princes, Behrenstrassc;—II. do Brandenburg, comfortable;—H. de 1’Europe, 2nd class inn. Charges , &c., see § 51. Table- d’hote, without wine, 20 Sgr.; rooms, from 20 Sgr. upwards ; breakfast, 8 or 10 Sgr. Cafes. —Krauzlcr, 25,Linden; Stehcly, Charlottenstrasse (many newspapers) ; Josti, Stechbahn. Restaurants. —Dinner hour generally before 4. Meser, 23, Linden;—Cafe Royal, 38, Linden : both resorted to by ladies;—Maison Doree, 14, Schadow- strasse ;—Belvedere, at the back of the Rom. Cath. Ch. Rost office , Spandaucrstrasse, No. 19, is open from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. Letter¬ boxes in various streets, as in London. Schnellpost office, No. 60, Konigs- strasse. Droschkies (open or shut carriages) ply for hire in the principal streets. Fares for 1 or 2 persons: a drive 6 Sgr. ; 3 or 4 persons, 10 Sgr.; by the hour, 15 and 17§ Sgr., 1 or two horses alike. Every person is presented by the driver with a printed ticket, bearing his number and the date of the month. Omnibuses tra¬ verse the city. A Valet de place receives usually 1 dollar per diem ; 15 Sgr. for half a day. Tho best baths are 19, Schutzenstrasse, and 19, Neue Friedrichsstrassc. Omnibuses traverse the city in all directions : Schlossplatz to Brandenburg Gate; from the Kreutzberg, through the Friedrichsstrasse, to the Panke ; from the Molken-markt to the Botanic Garden; from the Lustgarten to Moabit. English Church.—Service every Sun¬ day at 11 in a hall of the Montbijou Palace (granted for the purpose by the king), aided by the British minister. The chaplain depends a good deal upon casual visitors and travellers for stipend. Time-Table of Sights. —N.B. Refer to the Tags- Telegraph , a daily paper. Dailg , except Sunday : Royal Pa¬ lace, 10—4. Daily , except Tuesday : Museum of Pictures, Sculpture, &c. New Museum, 10—4. Public Library, 9— 1. Cabinet of Engravings, 10—*4. Raczynski Picture Gallery, 10 — 3. Zoological Garden. Bethanien, 10—4. Changing Guard, 11 a.m., and Military Band opposite the Guard-house. Sunday .—Waterworks at Sans-Souci, 3—6. The two Museums, 12—2. Monday .—Models of Fortresses, 9—2. Tuesday .—Gems and Coins, and Me¬ diaeval Collection in Museum, 10—4. Cabinet of Natural History, 12—2. SchinkeTs Museum, 11—1. Pictures in Bellevue, 10—1 and 2—6. Sans- Souci Waterworks. Wednesday .—Vases and Bronzes in Museum, 10—4. Anatomical Mu¬ seum, 4—6 summer ; 2—4 winter. Royal Library, 9—12. Arsenal, 10—4. Thursday .—Models of Fortresses, 9 — 2. Wagner’s Picture Gallery, 10— 1. Waterworks at Sans-Souci, 3—6. Friday .—Gems and Coins and Me¬ diaeval Collection in Museum, 10—4. Cabinet of Natural History, 12—2. SchinkeTs Museum, 11—1. Pictures in Bellevue, 10—1 and 2—6. Botanic Garden. Saturday. — Royal Library, 9—12. Anatomical Museum, 4—6 summer; 2—4 winter. Arsenal, 2—4. — JlAu.. Berlin, the capital of Prussia, stands on the Spree, a small stream with a very sluggish current; which, however, by means of canals, communicates with the Oder and the Baltic on tho one hand, and flows into the Elbe on the other. Population, 547,500 ; of whom 22,600 are soldiers of the garrison, 16,000 Jews, 6000 French Protestants driven out of France by the religious intolerance of Louis XIV., and 20,000 Rom. Catholics. It is the residence of the King, and of tho foreign ministers, and the seat of government. The great number of soldiers gives to Berlin almost the air of a camp. Prussia. ROUTE 61. —BERLIN". SOCIETY. The city is situated in the midst of a dreary plain of sand, destitute of either beauty or fertility. It is surprising that the foundation of a town should ever have been laid on so uninteresting a spot; hut it is far more wonderful that it should have grown up, notwith¬ standing, into the flourishing capital of a great empire. Previous to the reign of Frederick I. it was an unimportant town, confined to the rt. bank of the Spree, and to the island on which the Palace and Museum now stand. Since that time, in 150 years, its population has increased tenfold, and its limits have extended until its walls are 12 miles in circumference. Owing to the want of stone in the neighbour¬ hood, the larger part even of the pub¬ lic buildings are of brick and plaster. The flatness of the ground and the sandy soil produce inconveniences which the stranger will not be long in detect¬ ing. There is so little declivity in the surface, that the water in the drains, instead of running off, stops and stag¬ nates in the streets. In the Friedrichs- strasse, which is 2 m. long, there is not a foot of descent from one end to the other. In the summer season the heat of the sun reflected by the sand becomes intolerable, and the noxious odours in the streets are very un¬ wholesome as well as unpleasant. A third nuisance is, that’ the streets are only partially provided with trottoirs, and many are infamously paved with sharp stones, upon which it is excru¬ ciating pain to tread. The mere passing traveller in search of amusement will soon exhaust the sights of Berlin, and find it dull and less attractive than most of the great European capitals. The stranger com¬ ing to reside here, provided with good introductions, may find an agreeable literary society among the professors of the University. The names of Savigny the jurist, Ranke and Raumer the histo¬ rians, Ehrenberg the naturalist, Yon Buch the geologist, Boeckh the classical antiquary, Schelling the metaphysical writer, Cornelius the painter, mostly re¬ sidents of Berlin, enjoy a European cele¬ brity. The society of the upper classes is on the whole not very accessible to stran¬ 347 gers, nor is hospitality exercised to the same extent among them as in Eng¬ land, chiefly because their fortunes are limited. The hotels of the diplomatic corps are an exception, and in them the most agreeable soirees are held in the winter season. The finest buildings in Berlin are concentrated in the very small space of f m. between the Palace (Schloss) and the Brandenburg Gate, or very near it. Few European capitals can show so much architectural splendour as is seen in the colossal Palace, the beautiful colonnade of the Museum, the chaste Guard-house, the great Opera, and the University opposite. These, with the Arsenal, by some considered a most per¬ fect specimen of architecture (?), in the city, and the Academy of Arts, are all within a stone’s throw of one another, and the greater part may be seen by turning round on one’s heel, while the two churches and theatre in the Gen¬ darmes Platz are not many paces off. Most of these buildings are situated in the street named Unter den Linden , from a double avenue of lime-trees , which form a shady walk in its centre, while on each side of it runs a carriage road. It is the principal and most frequented street in this city. The view along it is terminated by the magnificent Brandenburg Gate. The * Brandenburg Gate (built 1789-* 92) is an imitation of the Pro- pylaeum at Athens, but on a larger scale. The car of Victory on the top was carried to Paris as a trophy by Napoleon, but it was recovered by the Prussians after the battle of 'Water¬ loo, who bestowed upon the goddess, after her return, the eagle and iron cross which she now bears. A French authority (Malte Brim) describes it thus :—“ Le quadrige de cuivro qui fut enleve par les Franqais lors de la premiere campague de Prusse, et qui a ete a Paris depuis 1806 jusqu’a 1814, nc decora jamais aucun des monumens de cette capitale ; — chef-d’oeuvre de patience plutot que de l’art, il fut execute par mi chaudronnier de Ber¬ lin ; ce n’est point un ouvrage de ciselure, mais un simple releve en bosse sur du cuivre lamine.” !! 348 HOUTE 61 .' —BERLIN. The Prussians have exhibited their gratitude and respect to the memory of the worthies of their country, in the statues of them erected in the streets and squares of the capital. Those to whom this honour has been paid are, without exception, military heroes. The Government lias rendered only tardy justice to the greatest of them all, * Frederick the Great , to whom an eques¬ trian statue in bronze, modelled by Rauch , was erected in 1851, in the Unter den Linden, opposite Prince Wil¬ liam’s Palace and the University. It is probably the grandest monument in Europe. It consists of a granite pedestal ‘25 ft. high, presenting on each face bronze groups of the great military commanders of the Seven Years’ War, on foot and horseback, all the size of life, and all portraits in high relief. The most prominent figures are those of his four best generals, the Luke of Brunswick, afterwards the commander of the allies against Lumouriez and the forces of the French Convention, Prince Heinrich of Prussia, General Scydlitz, and General Ziethen. The standing figures are not selected wholly accord¬ ing to their rank, hut have been taken on account of the honourable record of their deeds or sendees in the letters, despatches, and works of the King him¬ self. They include all the military celebrities of the period. One of the faces of the pedestal contains, between the statues of Seidlitz and Ziethen, the figures of three statesmen, Count Finck von Finckenstein, Frederick’s minister of foreign affairs; von Schlaberndorf, the chief of the ministerial departments, who did so much to keep the finances in order during the worst periods of the war; and Count von Carmer, the state chancellor, who completed the code known as the Allgemeine Landrecht, and reorganised the whole legal system. Three other names connected with the arts and science are also found in this division—Graun, Frederick’s favourite musical composer, Lessing, and Kant. The whole number of portrait figures, the size of life, on the four faces of the pedestal, is thirty-one. To reproduce them correctly the best authorities have been consulted, and authentic drawings, FREDERICK TIIE GREAT. Sect. V. busts, and medals of the period, have been strictly followed. This has in¬ volved an immense amount of labour, but the value of the monument, as an historical work, is thereby increased tenfold. The costumes and arms of the time are given with equal accuracy. Beneath the figures arc two tablets inscribed with the names of 80 distin¬ guished soldiers of the age of Frederick, whose portraits could not be given. Tire third side bears the names of 16 statesmen, artists, and men of science of the epoch. The fourth or front tablet has the following simple inscrip¬ tion :— “ To Frederick the Great, Frederick William III., 1850 ; completed by Fre¬ derick William IY., 1851.” Above the figures there is at each corner a female figure representing the four cardinal virtues—Prudence, Jus¬ tice, Fortitude, and Temperance. Be¬ tween them are bas-reliefs, emblematic of different periods of the monarch’s life; by a mixture of the ideal and reality, his birth, his education—civil and mili¬ tary—and his career before and after he became king, arc represented with simplicity and neatness. In the second relief a muse is teaching the young prince history, pointing out to him the names of the commanders he most ad¬ mired—Alexander, Coesar, and Gustavus Adolphus. In the third Minerva is giving him the sword. In another an historical event is embodied; it pre¬ sents the King after his defeat at the battle of Ivolin, sitting on a waterpipe, looking earnestly on the ground, on which he is drawing the lines of a plan with his cane. The subject has been so often engraved that it is familiar to every German. In the background of the tablet are allegorical figures of Triumph and Victory, intimating that the defeat was retrieved. The other reliefs exhibit him encouraging the arts of peace ; he is in the hut of a Silesian linen-weaver examining his ’web ; or playing the flute, on which instrument he was a proficient; or walking in the gardens of Sans Souci, surrounded by his favourite greyhounds. The last tablet contains his apotheosis. The equestrian statue itself is 17 ft, Prussia. 349 ROUTE 61 . —-BERLIN. 3 in. high; it represents the monarch “ in his habit as he lived and, diffi¬ cult as it must have been to deal with the costume of the period, and impart to it the dignity necessary in a monu¬ ment, the task has been perfectly ac¬ complished. Even the queue , to our ideas not only unsightly but unnatural, has been grappled with boldly. An ermine mantle hangs loosely from the monarch’s shoulders, although, as he never wore one, Rauch has been blamed for this addition, but excuses himself on the plea that, without it, the figure would have appeared puny and insigni¬ ficant at such an elevation. In every other detail the figure is true to life. The stick carried by a band from the right wrist, the three-cornered hat, the pistol holsters, and all the accoutre¬ ments of the horse are minutely copied from the relics preserved of the Great King. On the long bridge leading from the Konigsstrasse to the Schloss Platz is the equestrian statue of the Great Elector Fred . Wm., in bronze, designed by Schltiter, and possessing consider¬ able merit as a work of art. Opposite the Grand Guardhouse (Haupt-wache) stands the bronze statue of Bliicher , a spirited figure, well exe¬ cuted ; the pedestal is decorated with good bas-reliefs ; on his right is Gncisenau, on his left York. Facing him, on each side of the Guardhouse, are the marble statues of Generals Billow von Dennewitz and Scharnhorst , the reformer of the Prussian army after the battle of Jena, and the founder of the present military system of Prussia. These three statues are by the sculptor Rauch. The cannon and mortars behind the Guardhouse were brought from Paris, 1816 ; the mortars were cast in France, to be employed in the siege of Cadiz, and are the fellows of the one in St. James’s Park. The cannon originally came from Liibeck, and was carried off by the French in 1806. In the square called Wilhelms Platz, near the Potzdam Gate, are the statues of six heroes of the Seven Years’ "War, the Prince of Anhalt-Dcssau, Generals Ziethen, Schwerin, Winterfeld, Keith, and Scidlitz. They arc for the most STATUES. CHURCHES. part of little merit as works of art, and the classical togas and armour in which some of them are dressed out are incongruous and in bad taste. The Churches are not the objects which will attract the most notice in Berlin. In St. Nicholas , a Gothic edifice of different periods, in the old town, is the tomb of Puffendorf , who died here in 1690. He was historio¬ grapher, privy counsellor, and judge at the court of Frederick William, Elector of Brandenburg. The Cathedral (Horn) between the Palace and the Exchange, built 1747, is ugly in its exterior, and within has hardly the air of a church. It is the burial-place of the Royal Family, and contains the remains of the Great Elector, and of Frederick I., King of Prussia, in gilded coffins. The bronze effigy of the Elector John Cicero, cast by a Burgundian artist, in 1540,—that of the Elector Joachim, made by one Adam Vischer of Nuremburg,—and a mosaic of St. Peter, given by Pope Pius VII. to the late King, on one side of the altar, deserve notice. The “ Berlin Choir” who sing Mendelssohn’s Psalms, unaccompanied by instrumental music, on Sunday (10 a.m.), should be heard by all lovers of sacred music. Con¬ tiguous to the Dom, a cloister on the plan of the Campo Santo at Pisa is intended for a royal burial-place, and is to be adorned with frescoes by Cor¬ nelius. The two churches in the Gen¬ darmes Platz are admired for their architecture. The Catholic Church of St. Hedwig is a poor imitation of the Pantheon. The Garnisonkirche is at¬ tended by the soldiers of the garrison: the music is good. It contains paint¬ ings by Rhode, of no great merit, and very inappropriate to a church, repre¬ senting the death of some of the gene¬ rals of the Seven Years’ War. Against the walls are hung tablets bearing the list of names of those who fell in the war of liberation, 1813-15—a similar memorial will be found in almost every parish church in Prussia, with the simple inscription, 11 They died for their King and Fatherland.” The Church of Friedrichsu-erder is a modem Gothic 350 ROUTE 61. —BERLIN. THE ROYAL PALACE. Sect. V. structure, designed by Schinkel. It is of brick, and tbe mouldings, window tracery, cornices, corbels, and other ornaments usually cut out of stone, are of clay moulded and burnt into brick, an important application or revival of the use of that material to the purpose of ornamental architecture. St. Peter's is another fine Gothic Church , also of brick. The Schlossbriicke is decorated with 8 groups of marble statues : Victory, by E. Wolf; Minerva, by Schievelheim ; Minerva arming a warrior, by Moller; Victory crowning the victor, Drake; Victory supporting a wounded warrior, Weihman; Minerva exciting to com¬ bat, by A. Wolf; Minerva protect¬ ing a combatant, Blaser ; Iris convey¬ ing to Olympus a fallen warrior, by Wredow. The open space laid out with walks and flowerbeds, and planted with trees, called Lustgarten , is surrounded on three sides by the Palace, Museum, and Cathedral. In front of the Museum is a gigantic basin of polished granite 22 feet in diameter. The block out of which it was formed was a vast isolated boulder, known as the great Markgra- fenstein, and lay at Fiirstenwald, nearly 30 m. from Berlin. At the Palace gate, on the side of the Lustgarten, stand bronze horses and grooms, imitated from those on the Monte Cavallo, Rome, gifts of the Ernpr. Nicholas. The Berliners have nicknamed them Gelicmmter Fort- schritt, and Beforderter Riickschritt. * The Royal Palace , or Schloss, is in¬ debted to its vast size for the marked air of grandeur which its exterior pos¬ sesses. Within it is sumptuously fur¬ nished ; the state apartments arc shown by the castellan , who lives in the 2nd court on the 2nd floor. The principal features are the Chapel , built and fitted up 1848-54, decorated with paintings by living artists, including portraits of princes of the royal house and other re¬ markable Germans. In the Rittersaal (Knights’ Hall), is the throne and a side¬ board covered with massive old plate of gold and silver. In the White Half sump¬ tuously fitted up at great cost (120,000/.), * Progress checked—Retrogression encouraged. and decorated with the statues of the .12 Brandenburg Electors, and 8 alle¬ gorical figures representing the Prus¬ sian provinces, the first meeting of the Prussian Parliament was held, April, 1847. The most interesting rooms are those which were inhabited by Frederick the Great, at the corner of the building facing the Schloss Platz, and nearest to the long bridge on the first floor. The best paintings have been removed by the King’s permission to the Museum: among those that remain are Charles I. and his Queen Henrietta, by Vandyck — Marriage of St. Catherine,by Giulio Romano —Virtue quitting the Earth, Mars and Venus, by Rubens — Napoleon crossing the Great St. Bernard, by David —and in the White Hull a portrait of Frederick William III. of Prussia, by Sir Thos. Lawrence , a present from Geo. IV.— Queen Victoria, by Hayter. There are some good works of the modern German school: Lconore (Burger’s), by Les¬ sing. In former times, according to vulgar belief, this building was haunted by a ghost called the White Lady , who ap¬ peared only to announce the death of a member of the royal family. The Palace of the Crown Prince Frederick William of Prussia , and his consort the Princess Royal of England, is a handsome edifice, with portico and wings, opposite the Zeughaus, fitted up for the royal pair 1857. It was pre¬ viously the residence of King Frederick William III., in which he lived and died; and 100 years earlier Frederick the Great, when Crown Prince, lived in it. The Museum , facing the Lustgarten. —This very handsome edifice was fi¬ nished in i830, from the designs of the distinguished architect Schinkel ; its foundations are laid on many thousand piles, as the spot on which it stands was previously a branch of the Spree, which has been filled up. At the rt. side of the staircase is the well-known magnificent group in bronze, representing the combat of an Amazon with a tiger by Kiss. On the 1. side a horseman contending with a lion, by Rauch. Prussia. ROUTE 61.—BERLIN. MUSEUM. 351 The walls of the noble colonnade, run- [ ning along the front, have been adorned with frescoes executed under the direc¬ tion of Cornelius from the somewhat fan¬ tastic designs of Schinkel. They are in a style of composition common in German art, and require an explanation of the obscure allegories which they contain. They profess to illustrate alle¬ gorically the history of the formation of the universe and the intellectual de¬ velopment of mankind. On the 1. of the entrance, on ascending the steps, are represented “the sun in his chariot rising from the sea to give light to the world. In the clouds which reflect his glory are the Graces. A choir of harpers in the clouds announce the rising of the sun. The life of the day is represented by various allegories. The grand and beautiful female who spreads over her¬ self a mantle, under which several groups of sleepers repose, is the Night. Selene shedding light drives her chariot through the night. Saturn and the Titans withdraw into the gloom of past time. Lastly, Uranus is leading the dance of u the starry host.” On the right of the entrance the spring of Ima¬ gination rises up under the stroke from the hoof of Pegasus. Morning and Spring of Life :—shepherd races in the enjoyment of nature by poetry, and games of strength and activity. Be¬ ginnings of art in the outlines of shadows. Summer and Midday :—the harvest and its joys. Behind the water¬ fall from the fountain of poetry, re¬ sembling a veil, sit the Fates in the lap of the earth; while everything draws animation and strength from the fountain. Evening and Autumn:— vintage, workshops of artists, and dis¬ covery of the Corinthian capital. War¬ riors return home, and Age is delighted by the visit of the Muses. Night and Winter:—the wise man watched by Psyche investigates the course of the stars. The moon descends into the sea. The grey-headed old man is absorbed in .considering the elements. The sea¬ man launches out into the ocean over which the moon sheds its light. The collection which the Museum contains consists of—1. The Antiqua- rium, on the ground floor. — 2, The Sculpture Gallery, on the 1st floor.—3. The Picture Gallery, on the upper story. A catalogue is almost indispensable. 1. The Antiquarium (Entrance under the bridge at the back of the Museum) consists of—a. Collection of Vases , Bron¬ zes, fyc. — Admittance , Wed., 10 to 4, The Vases amount in number to 1600. They are exceedingly well classified, according to country and shape, and those bearing designs on the lower side, arranged upon tables of looking- glass. The contents of this portion of the Museum are principally derived from the collections of Bartholdy, Prus. minister at Pome, Baron Koller, Austrian commander at Naples, and from that formerly in the Palace. From its nature it is better calculated to in¬ terest the antiquarian than the general observer. Among the most remarkable objects in bronze arc the following:-—An extensive scries of Eoman Penates, or Household Gods; Boman arms, armour, spear, back and breast plates, greaves for the legs, and various utensils ; a sacrificial axe, a large circular shield, a small statue of an elephant, of good workmanship. There are numerous articles in terra¬ cotta, and various inscriptions on stone and metal. b. Collection of Gems and Coins .— Admittance , Tues. and Fri., 10 to 4. Among the 2814 gems, are many first- rate works, from the collection of Storsch; acarnelionwith the Seven before Thebes; portrait of Pompcy; young Hercules, Jupiter, Serapis, and Ceres. c. Mediaeval Collection. — Admittance , Tues. and Fri., 10 to 4. Here are some fine specimens of the painted and glazed earthenware called Maqolica , made in the duchy of Urbino in the 15th and 16th cent., and other objects of a higher order of art, also in baked clay painted and glazed. Among these may be noticed—(668, 674, and 675) busts of Pier Soderini, Lorenzo de’ Medici, and Machiavelli; a Virgin and Child, school of Michael Angelo ; and a large altar- piece by Luca della Robbia , a beautiful high relief of clay gilt, representing the Trinity. Other objects deserving of attention are—the golden shrine of St, 352 ROUTE 61. — BERLIN. TAINTINGS. Sect. V. Patroclus, brought from Soest, of very beautiful workmanship (date 1313?); a richly embossed silver dish of cinque cento work, possibly by Benvenuto Cel¬ lini ; and some painted glass. There is a catalogue costing 7^ Sgr. 2. The entrance to the Sculpture Gallery is through a grand circular hall extending the whole height of the building, and very imposing from its size and proportions. Around it are antique statues, while above hang 9 original tapestries worked from the cartoons of Raphael; they once be¬ longed to Henry VIII. and were pur¬ chased on the sale of Charles I.’s effects by the Duke of Alba. The antiqui¬ ties, principally composed of the col¬ lection of Cardinal Polignac, are with few exceptions not above me¬ diocrity as works of art, and a large part of them are much indebted to modern restorers. There is, how¬ ever, at least one exception. The Boy praying is one of the finest antique bronze statues in existence; it was found in the bed of the Tiber (140)— Apollo restraining Hercules from car¬ rying away the Delphic tripod, a bas- relief (81).— A Venus (113).—Daughter of Niobe (217).—A Wrestler (129).— A Bacchante (130).—The procession of Bacchus and Ariadne (146).—Bust of Julius Caesar ; it used to stand on the table of Frederick the Great (295) ;—a hero or Mercury, found at Syra, 1831, the head and arms modern; — Bust of Pericles (396);— Canova's Hebe — are almost the only others worth notice. 3. The * Picture Gallery , on the upper story of the building, is divided into numerous small compartments, by par¬ titions or screens extending from be¬ tween the piers of the windows nearly to the opposite walls. The collection is composed of, 1st, a selection from the paintings formerly in the Royal Palaces of Berlin, Sans Souci, and Charlottenburg, which the late king allowed to be removed to the Prussian National Gallery. They are marked in the Catalogue K. S. The Giustiniani collection (marked G. S.), from Venice, and the pictures of Mr. Solly, an English merchant (marked S. S.), besides valuable works collected by v. Rumohr and others, which have been purchased by the Government. The Berlin Gallery ranks below the Galleries of Munich and Dresden in works of first-rate excellence, but it has good specimens of a great number of masters, especially of the early German and Italian schools. For those who are desirous of studying the history and progress of the art, from the By¬ zantine schools, through those of Flo¬ rence and Sienna, to its period of ex¬ cellence, and thence to trace its gradual decay, there can be no better oppor¬ tunity than is here afforded them. The Director Waagcn has prepared an instructive catalogue, with a short introduction to explain the origin and character of each school. His arrange¬ ment, combining the chronological or¬ der with the classification according to schools, is admirable, and the whole collection complete and most instruc¬ tive. The 1st division contains the Italian, French, and Spanish schools; the 2nd, the Dutch, Flemish and German. The gallery is divided into 37 ca¬ binets or compartments, each distin¬ guished by a number over the entrance. In the 4th cabinet, on the 1. of the entrance, begin the Italian schools ; on the one next to it, i. e. the 5th from the entrance, begin the Flemish schools. These two cabinets therefore may be considered as points of departure. If the spectator continue on to the 1. he will pass in succession through the cabinets devoted to Flemish art, com¬ mencing with the Van Eycks and end¬ ing with the followers of Rembrandt and Rubens; if he take an opposite direction, to the rt., he will find in regular order the works of the schools of Venice, Lom¬ bardy, Rome, Bologna, &c. The gallery is by no means deficient in fine works of the great Italian mas¬ ters, but it is particularly rich in the Flemish and Dutch schools. Among the pictures which appear most deserving of attention are the following :— Italian School. — Andrea Mantegna; 28, Angels weeping over Christ. 'Titian; Prussia. 353 ROUTE 61. —BERLIN. PAINTINGS. 166, portrait of his daughter Lavinia. 167, Moroni, fine. Correggio; 218, Leda and the Swan; 216, Io and the Cloud, a repetition of that at Yienna, but inferior to it, as the flesh seems to have faded, and the shadows to have become black. These 2 pictures formed the gems of the gallery of the Regent Duke of Orleans; his son, from prudish mo¬ tives, cut out the heads of Io and Leda, and burnt them, and cut the picture of Leda to pieces ; luckily they were pre¬ served, and purchased by Frederick the Great for Sans Souci. The existing heads are insertions; that of Io was painted by Prudhon, a French artist. The Leda was injuriously retouched by the French, who removed the picture to Paris, but has been restored to its original condition, and a new head painted for it by a German artist. Pinturicchio; 133, the Adoration of the Magi. There is an interesting altar- piece by Raphael’s father, Giovanni Santi. 139, the little child with folded arms, opposite to St. John, is supposed to represent Raphael at the age of 3 years. Raphael; 247, Virgin and Child, called Madonna di Casa Colonna; in his best manner. Another Holy Family, with the Adoration of Magi, called Ma¬ donna Ancajani, from a family of that name at Spolcto, its former owners, is the largest picture by Raphael in Ger¬ many, after the San Sisto at Dresden ; but unluckily it is half destroyed ; in many places the colour is so far gone as to show the outline and contour of the figure, and the various layers of colour¬ ing in proportion as they are worn away. Instead of retouching the de¬ fective parts, by which the original composition would have been entirely obliterated, a finished copy has been made by a skilful artist, to give an idea of what the picture was when perfect. (The original, 150, in the 3rd divi- vision, is in a side room, of which the door is locked, but the attendant of the gallery will open it on application.) And. del Sarto ; 246, Sta. Julia, in his best manner. Fra Bartolomeo; 249, the Assumption of the Virgin. Fran¬ cesco Francia; 122, the Virgin in Glory worshipped by 6 Saints. Giacomo Fran¬ cia ; 287, the Virgin and Child, with St. I John the Baptist, the Magdalen, S. Agnes, S. Dominic, and S. Francis. Vittore Carpaccio ; 23, St. Peter or¬ daining Stephen and 6 other Deacons. Filippo Lippi; 69, The Infant Saviour adored by the Virgin. Luini; 217, Vir¬ gin and Child. Tintoret; 316, St. Mark and 3 Procurators of Venice. Sabbat- tini da Bologna; 335, the Virgin on a throne with 3 Saints. Ludovico Caracci; 371, Christ feeding the 5000. Guido Reni; 373, the Hermits Paul and An¬ thony discoursing. Spanish School. — Murillo ; 414, St. Anthony of Padua embracing the Infant Christ ; Port, of Card. Azzolini. Zur- baran ; 415, Christ bound to the Pillar. Alonzo Cano ; 414 b, St. Agnes. MichaelAngelo Caravaggio; 359, Christ in the Garden. Sassoferrato; 419, Joseph and the Infant Christ. Carlo Dolce ,* 423, St. John the Evangelist. Luca Giordano ; 441, the Judgment of Paris. French School. — Nicolas Poussin: 463, Landscape, with the story of Juno and Argus. 467, the Education of Jupiter. Lesueur ; 466, St. Bruno. Flemish and Dutch Schools.—John and Hubert Van Eyck; 12 paintings which formed the side wings or shutters of the famous altar-piece known as “The Worship of the spotless Lamb,” in the Ch. of St. Bavon, at Ghent, where the central portion still remains. (See Rtc. 21.) They are decidedly the finest works which the Berlin Museum pos¬ sesses. They represent, 512, the Just Judges; the man on the white horse is the painter Hubert Van Eyck; the figure in black, looking round, is his brother John. 513, The Soldiers of Christ: here are introduced portraits of Charlemagne and St. Lewis. 514, 515, Angels singing and playing. 516, The Holy Hermits. 517, The Holy Pilgrims. At the back of the above 6 pictures arc painted the 6 follow¬ ing. (Once every day the shutters are reversed by the guardians of the museum; so that those which were exposed in the morning are turned to the wall in the afternoon, and visitors have an opportunity of seeing both.)— 518, John the Baptist. 519, Portrait of Jodocus Vyts, Burgomaster of Ghent, 354 ROUTE 61. —BERLIN. NEW MUSEUM. Sect. V. for whom the picture was painted; the expression of piety and devotion in the countenance is most truthfully depicted. 520 and 521, The Annunciation, the Angel Gabriel, and the Virgin. 522, Elizabeth, wife of Jodocus Vyts. 523, St. John the Evangelist. These ad¬ mirable pictures were finished 1432.— Roger v. d. Weyden. 534, Descent from the Cross : nothing can exceed the soft¬ ness and minute finish of the female faces, while the expression of grief in the Virgin and Magdalen is most true to nature. — An altar-piece in 3 com¬ partments. 535, The Birth of Christ.— The Sibyl of Tibur announcing the Birth of Christ to Augustus.—The 3 Kings adoring the Saviour.—A triptych, subjects from life of John Baptist. Mem- ling; 533, Elijah fed by Angels. 539, a Jewish family eating the Passover.— Quentin Matsys ; 561, Virgin and Child. Lucas Cranach; 593, The Fountain of youth. 619, portrait of Melancthon. 618, portrait of Luther, with musta- chios, as the Junker (Squire) George, taken while he was concealed in the castle of the AVartburg : interesting.— Christopher Amberger; 583, portrait of the geographer Sebastian Munster.— Hans Holbein; 586, portrait of George Gyzen, a merchant of London. Rubens; 763, The Daughter of the painter.— 783, The Besurrection of Lazarus.— 781, St. Cecilia.—758, Helena Forman, his 2nd wife.— Van Dyh ; 782, portrait of Prince Thomas of Carignan. 786, portrait of a Daughter of Chai’lcs I. in a blue dress, with a white lace apron, beautifully painted. 799, St. John Bap¬ tist and St. John Evangelist. 787, The Three Penitent Sinners, the Magdalen, the Prodigal Son, and King David, be¬ fore the Virgin and Child.—790, por¬ traits of the Children of Charles I. with a Dog.— Teniers; 856, Peasants in an Alehouse. 859, The Temptation of St. Anthony, a very humorous picture: there is a great deal of whim and drol¬ lery in the devils. Under the figure of the Saint, Teniers has portrayed him¬ self ; the younger woman is his wife, with a little bit of a devil’s tail peeping from under her gown ; the old woman was his mother-in-law, a more decided devil, with horns and claws, — Rem¬ brandt ; 802, portrait of Duke Adolph of Gueldres, shaking his clinched fist at his father; a masterpiece of the artist; a powerful representation of uncurbed passion.— Jacob Ruisdael; 884, a sea-piece, with Amsterdam in the distance.— Jan Both ; 863, a landscape with a hunting party.— Be Heem ; 963, a flower and fruit piece. — Francis Snyders; 974, a bear hunt.— Balthazar Benner-, 1014, a portrait of a man, elaborately executed, was purchased for 10,000 dollars (about 1500/.). The third division of the gallery is occupied with works of the earliest period of art, which may be regarded as the antiquities of painting, and are interesting, almost exclusively in an historical point of view, as illustrating the progress of the art. They consist of Byzantine, Italian, and early German and Flemish works. In the rear of the Museum, and con¬ nected with it by a covered bridge car¬ ried over the street upon columns, is the *New Museum, designed by Stiller. The exterior is not very remarkable, but in internal decoration it is the most splendid building in Berlin. Besides the peculiar decorations of the Hall and grand staircase described further on, each apartment is ornamented more or less with fresco paintings having refer¬ ence to the objects contained in it. On the ground floor are arranged—1st. The Northern A ntiquities —relics of the early Sclavonic and Teutonic races, dug up in N. Germany and Scandinavia—celts, arrowheads, and other arms—while the walls are covered with subjects derived from the mythology of the Edda, &c. 2nd. Ethnological Collection, illustrative of the manners and customs of different parts of the world, especially of savage nations; such are a cloak of feathers, presented by Tamehameha, K. of the Sandwich Islands, with a complimentary letter, to the lateK. of Prussia, in return for which he received the full uniform of the 2nd Begt. of Prussian Guards—a model of a Chinese lady’s foot, to show the manner in which they are pinched and contracted—a filligree silver case, like a claw, nearly three inches long, worn by ladies of rank in China to pro¬ tect their finger-nails, which it is Prussia. ROUTE 61. —BERLIN. NEW MUSEUM. 355 the fashion to let grow to that length I —coloured pieces of paper used instead of napkins at dinner—a variety of Chi¬ nese dresses, among them the military uniform of a captain—a lasso from S. America—a cigar smoked by the ladies of Lima, I 5 foot long and thick in pro¬ portion—large disks of wood inserted by the Botocudos Indians in their ears and under-lips—tattooed head of a New Zealander — weapons brought from Africa, by Ehrenberg the traveller— an Australian necklace of human teeth —staves covered with Runic inscrip¬ tions carved on them, and a Runic almanac cut on 12 tablets of wood— the costumes of Mexico, in a series of coloured wax figures—copies of two of North cote’s pictures, by Chinese native artists, very well executed—a vast assortment of Chinese musical in¬ struments ; the modern invention of the mouth harmonica was taken from one of them—Japanese weapons: one of the most formidable is a sort of scythe fixed vertically upon the end of a long- pole—saddle of the Pasha of Shumla. The Asiatic collection was chiefly formed by Kruger. 3rd. On the rt. of the great staircase, Egyptian Antiquities , occupying 5 apartments, decorated with imitations of genuine examples of Egyptian paintings. The collection was commenced by M. Passalacqua and General Minutoli, and is one of the most curious in Europe. To this have been added the acquisitions made by Lcpsius, in Egypt, 1845. The inner court is arranged as the court of an Egyptian temple, sur¬ rounded with pillars, and within are statues of gods and kings, Rhamses, &c. The Chamber of Tombs is a restoration of part of the Necropolis of Memphis. Three tombs also from the pyramids, brought away by Lcpsius, have been rebuilt. In addition to mummies, sca- rabpei, statues of Apis, coins, &c., which may be found in other cabinets, there exists here a collection of arms, imple¬ ments used in various arts, utensils of all sorts, &c., laying open the whole household economy of the Egyptian nation, as it existed some thousands of years ago, all in such perfect preserva¬ tion as to give a wonderful insight into the state of arts and habits, condition and civilization of the Egyptians at that remote period. Specimens of the produce of a great many trades are here to be seen. Gar¬ ments nearly as fine as muslin ; a pair of braces ! said, by Cliampollion, to have belonged to an Egyptian monarch ; san¬ dals ; a medicine chest filled with drugs, in alabaster phials, is also supposed to have belonged to a king. By the side of the figures of the various Egyptian deities are placed the symbols belonging to each, worn, it is supposed, as amulets on the person. Among them is a beetle, with the head of a sphinx. An assortment of the vari¬ ous kinds of cloth and linen found upon the mummies shows great perfection in the art of spinning and weaving. The objects for the decoration of the person include mirrors of brass, pins of brass and ivory, necklaces, one of which was borrowed by the Duchess of Berry to wear at a Parisian fancy ball. Spe¬ cimens are shown of the various balsams and asphaltum used in embalming. It is a curious fact that mummies are now imported into Europe for the use of apothecaries and painters, on account of the bitumen they contain. The instru¬ ments used in embalming, the Ethi¬ opian knives of sharpened flint, and the brass hooks with which the brain was extracted through the nostrils, are per¬ haps peculiar to this collection. It would bo tedious to give more than a slight enumeration of other objects, such as arms, spears, bows, and arrows, &c.; a plough; a spindle ; distaff, and comb for flax; measures of rope and wood divided by knots or notches ; a painter’s palette and paint-box with sliding lid. 7 different colours are preserved here. Herodotus mentions only 4. Part are placed in small shells, as is the modern practice. Writing materials ; archi¬ tect’s apparatus ; dice ; weights ; san¬ dals, and shoes of leather and palm- leaves ; fishing-nets, with floats formed of calabashes ; musical instruments; the flute and sistrum; mummies of the sacred animals worshipped by the Egyptians, as cats, fish, serpents, young crocodiles, frogs, ibises, lizards, all em¬ balmed and wrapped in cloths ; a human 356 ROUTE 61.— BERLIN. NEW MUSEUM. Sect. V. monster, without brain or spine, em¬ balmed—it has been described by Geof¬ frey St. Hilaire. Perhaps the most curious objects in the whole collection are the contents of the tomb of an Egyptian high priest, discovered and opened by Passalacqua in the Necropo¬ lis of Thebes. The body was enclosed in a triple coffin. By the side of it were deposited the sacred wand or priest’s rod, the skull and leg-bones of an ox, branches of sycamore, and 2 models of Egyptian vessels (such as navigated the Nile 3000 years ago), neatly finished and completely rigged, having on board a dead body, and a party of mommers accompanying it to the tomb. “ Broad stairs lead in a single flight from the ground floor of the New Museum to a lofty hall in the middle of the building. Here the pupils of Kciulbach , Echler and Muhr, have painted after his designs:*—1. The Destruction of Babel and Dispersion of the Nations. 2. Greece in her prime. 3. Destruction of Jerusalem, by Titus : —in the centre, the High Priest killing his family and himself; rt., a Christian family taking to flight, an ex¬ quisite group. 4. Battle of the Huns. 5. Conversion of Wittikind to Christi¬ anity, by the agency of Charlemagne. 6 . Crusaders before Jerusalem. A new method of painting in water-colours, called Stereo-chromic or Wasserglass- Malerei, has been tried. The wall is first saturated with ‘ Wasserglass,’ a solution of silica or flint in alkali; on this ground the painting is executed with ordinary water - colours; when finished it is again varnished with the same preparation, which forms, as it dries, a thin transparent coating — a true glass, capable, it is said, of resist¬ ing the action of acids, and having somewhat the appearance of china¬ painting.”— It. The rooms on the first floor contain a valuable and extensive collection of casts of works of sculpture from the earliest Greek down to Thorwaldsen, all beauti¬ fully arranged. One half of the upper floor is devoted to the cabinet of Draw¬ ings and Engravings , including several * Engravings of these have been published by Alexander Duncker. designs for cartoons of Raphael, tho original sketch for the Dom of Cologne. The other half is set apart for the works of art composing the *Kunsthammer ( Chamber of Art). Its collections, in beautiful galleries, the chronology of the specimens being marked on the cases, are admirably arranged, and are well worth seeing; they are open to the public from 10-4 every day but Monday and Saturday. The Historical Collection is highly interesting, as illustrating in many in¬ stances the characters and lives of re¬ markable men, and it is for the most part undoubtedly authentic. It con¬ tains the model of a windmill made by Peter the Great, with his own hands, while working as a ship-carpenter in Holland.—The Robes of the Orders of the Garter given by George IV., and of the Holy Ghost given by Louis XVIII., to Frederick William III.: between the two is the scarlet dress of a Doctor of Civil Law given to him by the Uni¬ versity of Oxford, on the occasion of his visit in 1814. The hussar dress and cap, surmounted with a black eagle’s wing, worn by the Prussian General Ziethen;—two camion balls, each with one side flattened, are said to have been fired by opposite parties in the siege of Magdeburg, and to have met together in the air! Some of the relics here preserved are peculiarly national, such as — a cast taken after death from the face of Fre¬ derick the Great,—the bullet which wounded him in the battle of Rossbach, 1760,—a wax figure of him clothed in the very uniform he wore on the day of his death ; the coat is rusty and tar¬ nished, the scabbard of the sword is mended with sealing-wax by his own hand; his books and walking-cane, his baton, and the favourite flute, his solace in hours of relaxation, are carefully preserved here along with his pocket- handkerchief, which he used to the last; it is a dirty rag, very tattered, though patched in many places. This confirms the description of Dr. Moore, who visited the palace in Frederick’s life-time. u The whole wardrobe con¬ sisted of two blue coats, faced with red, the lining of one a little tom ; two Prussia. 357 R. 61 . —BERLIN. NEW MUSEUM. ROYAL LIBRARY. yellow waistcoats, a good deal soiled with Spanish snuff; three pairs of yel¬ low breeches, and a suit of blue velvet embroidered with silver, for grand occa¬ sions. I imagined at first that the man had got a few of the king’s old clothes, and kept them here to amuse strangers; but, upon inquiry, I was assured that what I have mentioned, with two suits of uniform which he has at Sans Souci, form the entire wardrobe of the king of Prussia. Our attendant said he had never known it more complete.” Near the figure of Frederick is a glass-case containing the stars, orders, and decorations presented to Ponaparte by the different sovereigns of Europe, one of the most conspicuous being the Prussian black eagle : Eng¬ land alone, it appears, contributed none. They were taken by the Prussians after the Battle of Waterloo, in his carriage, from which he escaped so narrowly that he left his hat behind him, which is also preserved here. Not far off are Bliicher’s orders. A cast in wax from the face of the beautiful queen Louisa of Prussia. A cast of Moreau’s face, taken after death. The camp chair of the great Gustavus Adolphus. Fre¬ derick the Great’s father’s collection of well-used tobacco-pipes. The cap and sword worn by the Great Elector at the battle of Fehrbellin. A white dress that belonged to Murat is so fantastic in shape, and gaudy in gold lace, \ s fully to explain and justify the nick¬ name of Fran coni, given him by Bona¬ parte. Two executioner’s swords, re¬ markable on account of the persons whose heads have been cut off by them. A rich and elaborately ornamented cabinet, called the Pomeranian Chest , was made at Augsburg, 1617, for Phi¬ lip II. Duke of Pomerania, and is a mine of art in itself. A great variety of articles made of amber, and many specimens, rough and cut, of this mi¬ neral, which is found in great quantities within the Prussian dominion. Among the works of art in this mu¬ seum are a head carved in wood, by A. Purer. A bas-relief of Orpheus and Eurydico, in bronze, by Peter Vischer. An ivory crucifix, attributed to M. Angelo. A large basin with bas-reliefs in ivory. The Descent of the Fallen Angels, an elaborately minute carving of many figures in ivory. The whole Life of Christ minutely carved in wood. A battle piece, by A. Purer. An ex¬ tensive collection of carvings and reliefs in ivory, gold and silver plate, cups and vases enriched with bas-reliefs and pre¬ cious stones. An elephant’s tusk carved with hunting scenes, probably a work of the 10th cent., is curious for its anti¬ quity. The old ivories and enamelled reliquaries are very fine. Here are some red cups of Bottcher’s original Dresden china-ware, and 2 pale ones with Gothic patterns, very rare spe¬ cimens. Baron Trench’s drinking cup, engraved by him while in prison. Lu¬ ther’s beer jug, very largo measure. A very beautiful series of miniature por¬ traits ; among them Gustavus Adolphus and his daughter Christina. The Royal Library (entrance in the Opcrn - Platz), a tasteless building, which owes its shape, it is said, to a whim of Frederick the Great, who desired the architect to take a chest of drawers for his model, contains about 500,000 vols. and nearly 5000 MSS. It is shown to strangers on application to the Librarian, Wed. and Sat., 9— 12 . Among its curiosities are — Lu¬ ther’s Hebrew Bible, the copy from which he made his translation, with marginal notes in his own hand. The MS. of his translation of the Psalms, with his corrections in red ink. The Bible and Prayer-book which Charles I. carried to the scaffold, and gave be¬ fore his death to Bishop Juxon : Gu- temberg’s Bible of 42 lines in a page (on parchment, date 1450-55), the first book on which moveable type was used. A consular diptych of ivory with re¬ liefs, date 416, one of the earliest known. The Codex Wittekindii, a MS. of the 4 gospels, given, it is said, by Charlemagne to Wittekind (?); it is of the 9tli or 10th cent., and the ivory carvings in the binding are in the style called Byzantine. Several Ivories (dip- tychs) of the earliest Christian times, and of Homan work. An album , with 6 beautiful miniature portraits, by Luke Cranach ; among them arc his friends 358 R. 61. —BERLIN. PUBLIC READING-ROOM. ARSENAL. Sect. V. Luther, Melanchthon, and the Elector John Frederick of Saxony. 3G vols. of engraved portraits of distinguished men of various times and countries, accom¬ panied by autographs in alphabetical order. Two hemispheres of metal, with which Otto Guericke made the experi¬ ments which led him to discover the air-pump, are also preserved here. When he had exhausted the air be¬ tween them, he found that the force of 30 horses was unable to separate them. The Public Heading-room of the Li¬ brary, where hooks may he consulted, is open daily. Inhabitants of Berlin, and even resident strangers properly recom¬ mended, are allowed to take hooks home with them under certain restric¬ tions. There is a private reading-room on the ground-floor, in which the new hooks and principal journals of Europe are deposited. Admission can he ob¬ tained by a ticket from one of the head librarians, which is only given to per¬ sons known to them. It is open daily from 10 to 12. The University (Unt. den Linden) established in 1809, possesses a high re¬ putation from the talent of its teachers and a better system of discipline than Jena and Heidelberg. It ranks among the first academical establishments in Germany, especially as a medical school, and is the most numerously attended (after that of Vienna), the students amounting to 1500. The Museum of Natural History is within the 1. wing of the building. The Zoological Collection is open Tuesdays and Fridays from 12 to 2 ; tickets are given out the day previous by the Di¬ rector of the Museum. This collection is one of the richest and most extensive in Europe, especially in the department of Ornithology; it includes the birds collected by Pallas and Wildenow, and the fishes of Bloch. The best specimens are those from Mexico, the lied Sea, and the Cape. The whole is exceedingly well arranged and named for the convenience of students. The Minerals are shown at the same hours, by tickets given by the director, who resides in the house. Among the curiosities of this collection are—a piece of amber weighing 13 lbs. 15 oz., the largest known, and worth 10,000 dols. It was found at Schlappackcn, 20 Germ, m. from the Baltic. Malachite from Russia. Topazes of 2 distinct colours, yellow and amethystine. A mass of j platina, weighing 1088 grains, and a splendid fiery opal, both brought from South America by Alex, von Humboldt. 1 A large portion of the collections made ! by him during his travels in America and Asia are deposited here. The Anatomical Museum in the rt. wing will be highly appreciated by the medical student—it is one of the best in Europe, particularly rich in prepara¬ tions of human and comparative ana¬ tomy. It is shown Wednesdays and Saturdays, from 4 till 6 in summer —2 to 4 in winter, by tickets. The Botanic Garden , belonging to the University, outside of the town, is de¬ scribed further on. The Arsenal (Zeughaus), esteemed a building of almost faultless architecture, w r as erected in 1695. Above the win¬ dows round the inner court are 22 masks, admirably carved in stone by Schluter, representing the human face in the agonies of death. On the ground- floor are cannon and artillery of various kinds, such as 2 leather guns, used by the GreatGustavusin the 30 years’ war; a field-piece named die schbne Taube (beautiful dove) ; a damasked cannon ; 2 Turkish pieces. On the first floor are ranged 100,000 stand of arms. These apartments form a kind of Military Museum. Specimens of the arms and accoutrements used in every army in Europe are deposited here. There are fire-arms, from those used at the first invention of gunpowder to the most perfect made in the present day. 7 bunches of the keys of captured for¬ tresses—some taken from the French. A standard, and the key of Adrianople, taken from the Turks by the Russians in the war of 1828-29, presented by their emperor. Against the walls and pillars are hung nearly 1000 stand of colours, chiefly French, and bearing Jhe dates and emblems of the Revolution. They were captured by the Prussians in Paris, 1815. In consequence of the plunder of the arsenal during the riots Prussia. 859 ROUTE 61. —BERLIN. PALACES. ACADEMIES. of March, 1848, some of the interesting objects formerly to he seen here may be missing. Admission by tickets, which may he had of the Commandant opposite the Zenghaus, and which the valet de place will procure. The Palace of Prince Karl , 9, Wil- helms-Platz, fitted up by Schinkel, contains a very choice and valuable col¬ lection of armour. A shield of beaten silver, with raised groups in the style of 13. Cellini, and the Kaiserstuhl, an arm¬ chair of bronze, from the Dom in Goslar, deserve mention. The Palace of Prince Albert , 102, Wilhelms Strasse, also arranged by Schinkel, is a handsome building, and it is shown to strangers. Count RaczynsM s Gallery , in a man¬ sion on the Exercier-Platz, outside the Brandenburg Gate, contains interest¬ ing specimens of modem German art —the finished Sketch of Kaulbach’s Battle of the Huns ; a Sposalizio, by Overbeck; Solin’s Two Leonoras; Leopold Robert’s last work; Cornelius’s Christ in Limbo, &c. Also fine specimens of Bellini , Francia , Luini, Steinle, Ben- deman , and Fuhrich. The Collection of Modern Paintings bequeathed to the Government by Consul Wagener , placed temporarily in the Academie, contains choice works by Achenbach , landscape : Adam , a stable : Biefvc, the Compromise; Gallait Ca- lame , &c. The Ravene' Cabinet, Neue Griin-str., is a small select collection also of modern paintings. The Iron Foundry (Eisengiesscrei), outside of the Oranienburg-gate, where the well known black cast-iron orna¬ ments are made, was much damaged by Republican violence during- the at¬ tempted revolution of 1848. A great variety of articles, as busts, statues, bas-reliefs, copies of pictures, monu¬ mental slabs, joists, beams, and rafters for houses, and even bells, are cast here. At the time when the final struggle commenced between Prussia and Napo¬ leon, the patriotism of the Prussian ladies was particularly conspicuous. They sent their jewels and trinkets to the royal treasury to assist in furnishing funds for the expense of the campaign, Bings, crosses, and other ornaments of cast iron, made in this manufactory, were given in return to all those who had made this sacrifice. They bore the in¬ scription “ Ich gab Gold um Eisen” (I gave gold for iron), and such Spartan jewels are, at this day, much treasured by the possessors and their families. The black varnish with which the iron ware is covered, to prevent rust, is made of amber dissolved, and linseed oil mixed with lamp black. The China Manufactory was founded by Frederick the Great: the painting is very good, but the porcelain is rather thick and heavy. The quality of the clay is not good, but great pains are taken to purify it by passing it through a number of vats. The Taub-Stummen-Institute Institu¬ tion for instructing the deaf and dumb , situated in the Linien Strasse, Nos. 81 and 82, is a very interesting establish¬ ment. The Academy of Fine Arts , Unter den Linden, was placed by Frederick the Great above the Boyal Stables ; hence some one proposed to inscribe over the door “ Musis et Mulis.” An exhibi¬ tion of modern works takes place here annually between September and De¬ cember. The Gevoerbe Schule , School for Trade, is an establishment of a kind only re¬ cently introduced into Great Britain. It is a school for instructing gratuitously promising young artisans in drawing, modelling, and other branches of the fine arts calculated to bo of practical use in their trade, with a view of improving the designs of articles of furniture and patterns in stuffs of all sorts, and the like. The Architectural Academy (Bau- schule) S. of the Schlossbrucke, esta¬ blished under the direction of Schinkel, is one of the most original constructions of that skilful architect, now no more. It is of red brick, and the external or¬ naments are of the same material, i. e. of terracotta, or clay moulded and baked. Within may be seen some paint¬ ings and sculpture, also by Schinkel. The Studios of some of the Berlin artists deserve to be visited. They are situated in the Xhiergarten, outside the r lu t s u " ju - (7 300 ROUTE 61.—BERLIN. THEATRES. WINTER GARDENS. Sect. V. Brandenburg Gate. Cornelius’ studio close to the Raczynski Palace. Theatres. —1. Italian Opera House, rebuilt 1845, after a fire, is a building of great splendour near tbe Linden. In it German and Italian operas, tlie na¬ tional drama, and tragedy and comedy, are performed, generally 3 or 4 times a week alternately with the Schauspiel- haus, though in winter the Opera isopen every day. It holds 2000 spectators. The Box-office of the Opera House is not in that building, but in the lower story of the Schauspielhaus, where tickets are given out for both theatres. Opera be¬ gins at 6j, and is over by 10. 2. New Play House (Schauspielhaus) built by Schinkcl, in 1819, lies between the two churches in the Gens d’Amies Platz. It is decorated with a good deal of sculpture, by Rauch and Tieck, re¬ presenting mythological subjects. The performances consist of German and French plays alternately : an excellent French company resides here perma¬ nently. It is a great treat to see a Greek tragedy, such as the Antigone of Sophocles, performed here, the stage ■ and theatre being fitted up as nearly as possible in the ancient Grecian classic style. The stage is on the second floor of the building, so that it is necessary to go up stairs even into the pit. Adjoining it is the Concert Boom, holding 1200 persons, much admired for its architectural proportions and the taste of its decorations. Besides Con¬ certs, a certain number of Subscription Balls take place here in winter. The king and royal family are often present. Begins at 6. 3. Konigstadt Theater, 90, Char- lotten Str. 4. Fried- Wilhelm-Stddti- sches Theater , 14, Schumann Str. Begin at 6. The Sing Academic (see § 42) is a private association of from 200 to 300 amateurs, male and female, of the re¬ spectable and upper classes, who meet together to practise every week during the whole year, and give annually several delightful concerts, to which the public are admitted, in the tasteful Grecian building of the Academy, designed by Ottmar, behind the Grand Guard¬ house. The performance of sacred vocal music is probably not carried to greater perfection in any part of Europe —the strength of the chorus, and the perfect precision and unity of so many voices is very striking. This institu¬ tion has been imitated in the Exeter Hall Association in London. In the new quarter of the town, ris¬ ing on the S. side of Berlin and ap¬ proached by the Ivdpnickerstrasse, is Bctlianien (Bethany), a castellated edifice erected 1850, and devoted to the chari- ; table purposes of an hospital for the sick, | who are attended by Deaconesses, “charitably-minded Christian maidens.” Both the architectural and economical arrangement of this institution are on the most liberal scale, and it well merits notice. The Coliseum, Commandanten -strasse, No. 57, is a very handsome ball-room, designed principally for the Bourgeoisie to dance in, but often visited by the upper classes as lookers on. The Winter Gardens are coffee-houses under glass—conservatories filled with exotic plants, provided with tables for refreshments, and newspapers. They are splendid and popular establishments, where excellent dinners, music, Ac., arc provided. The best, *NroU’s in the Tliiergartcn (rebuilt since a fire, 1850), contains a dining and concert hall, 336 ft. long, 95 ft. wide, and theatre. Ad¬ mission, 5 Sgr. ; best places, 15 Sgr. extra. In the Beer Tunnel below, smoking is allowed. The ices are good. There is a table-d’hote on Sun¬ days, at 15 Sgr. a head. Restaurateurs, where dinner and sup¬ per are served a la carte. The best are Mielentz’s (formerly Jagor’s), No. 28, and Mcinhardt’s, or Cafe Royal (very superior cuisine), No. 33, Unter den Linden. (Meinliardt’s is now an hotel, with an excellent table d’hote.) Tietz, 25, U. de Linden. Stagge (Cafe Belvedere), near the Catholic Ch. Cafe de la Gaite, Charlotten Strasse, 60. Peculiar delicacies of the Berlin cuisine are the Sandra, or pike-perch, a very delicate fresh-water fish ; Teltower Ru¬ ben (very small and sweet turnips, resembling parsnips in shape, from Teltow, a neighbouring Tillage), 3 Prussia, ROUTE 61.—BERLIN. ENVIRONS. or 4 is the fashionable hour of dinner in Berlin. The Merchants ’ Club is over the Ex¬ change, to which a banker will intro¬ duce you to read the papers. An introduction from the English minis¬ ter will procure admission to the Club of Nobles. Newspapers of all coun¬ tries may be seen at the Zeitungs Halle Oberwall Strasse, No. 12 and 13. The Confectioners’ shops (Condito- reicn), corresponding nearly with the cafes of Paris, supplying ice, coffee, newspapers, See., become the general lounge and resort about 1 or 2 o’clock, it being a usual practice hero to take a cup of chocolate in the middle of the day. The best are Stehelys, 36, Ckar- lotten Strasse, behind the Schauspicl- haus, where French, German, and Eng¬ lish journals, including the Times and Galignani, are taken in. Josti, 1 . Steckbahn (good bonbons) ; — Ivrans- ler, 25, U. d. Linden (capital ice); Spargnapani, U. d. Linden, 50. The lower classes resort to the ivine and beer-houses (Bicrlokalc), which, in splendour, may vie with the gin palaces of London, and are nearly as much crowded, and as injurious to public health and morals. The best are (where men sup after the theatre),—for Berlin "Wcissbier, Yolpi, Stechbahn, 3, and Mokren Strasse, 37 a. ; Ivlausing, Zim¬ mer Strasse, 80;—for Bavarian beer, Llappold, Griin Strasse, 1 ; Wallmuller, Jtiger Strasse, 33. The best shops are in the Untcr den Linden, Schloss Platz, Breitc Strasse, in the Bauscliulc, and between the Schloss and the Opera House, Konigs Strasse, and Behren Strasse. Among the articles peculiar to Berlin, and best worth purchasing, are the trinkets, ornaments, busts, bas-reliefs, See., of cast-iron; the pictures in transparent China (Lithophanics) ; amber trinkets, Ilirsch, 26, Linden. Pistor and Martins, the best makers of philosophical instruments, 34, Mauer Strasse, sell admirable microscopes. MM. Asher and Co., booksellers, 20, Enter den Linden, have a large stock of English, French, and German works; Guido Books ; besides old and rare books. [n. g.] Railroads' Termini — to Potsdam, Magdeburg, and Hanover, outside the Potsdam Gate;—to Leipzig and Dres¬ den, outside the Anhalt Gate ; — to Hamburg, outside the New Gate;—to Stettin, outside the Oranicnburg Gate ; —to Frankfurt on the Oder, Danzig, and Breslau, near the Stralauer Platz; to Danzig, Konigsberg, Posen, Rostock. Schnellposts. —The office (Meldczim- mer, § 33, 46), in the inner court of the Post-office, Ktfhigs St., No. 60, and Spandauer St., 19—22, is open from 7 a. m. to 8 P. M. Environs .■—The gates of the city were originally named after the places to which they led, but the great lines of high roads have been so much changed, that it is not now the Halle Gate, but the Potsdam Gate, which leads to Halle, nor the Hamburg Gate which leads thither, but the Branden¬ burg Gate ; and to proceed into Silesia you issue out of the Frankfurt, not the Silesian Gate. At Tec;el, 9 m. beyond the Oranien- burg Gate, long seat of ’W’m. von Hum¬ boldt, the statesman and philologcr, he and his illustrious brother, Alexander von Humboldt, the traveller (died 1859, aged 90), are buried. In the garden is a monument to his wife, a statue of Hope upon a pillar, the work of Thorvcaldsen. In the churchyard outside of the Ora- nienburg Gate, are buried Fichte, Ilegel, and Schinkel. About 1 1 mile outside of the Pots¬ dam Gate, near the village of Schbne- berg, is the Botanic Garden. The con¬ servatories and palmhouses arc on a large scale. Palms arc seen growing in them to a height of nearly 30 ft. It is open to the public on Friday. Strangers may obtain admission at other times. Outside the Konig’s Thor (King’s Gate) rt. is the New Park, the prettiest pleasure-ground near Berlin; and 1. tire very beautiful Cemetery. Close to the Halle Gate, which termi¬ nates on the S. the avenue of the Fried¬ richs Strasse, a street 3 m. long, in the Belle-Alliance-Platz, rises the Friedens Denhnal, a pillar of granite, surmounted by Victory, by Rauch, erected 1840, to commemorate the Peace which bad then lasted 25 years, R 362 R. 61. —BERLIN. THIERGARTEN. CHARLOTTENBURG. Sect. V . About ^ a mile beyond the Ilalle Gate is a low sandhill called the Kreutz- berg, almost the only eminence near Berlin, and commanding a tolerable view of it. It is named from a Gothic Cross of cast iron, 160 ft. high, upon its summit, called Voiles Denkmal (People’s Monument), erected by the late king, as a memorial of Prussia’s recovery of independence from the French, and thus inscribed : “ The King to his peo¬ ple, who at his call nobly offered life and property to their country ; a monu¬ ment to the fallen; an acknowledgment to the living; an example to posterity.” Schinkel designed it, and ltauch and Tieclc executed the statues of Prus¬ sian warriors in the niches, and the bas-relief medallion heads having re¬ ference to victories gained by the Prussians—as Gross-Gorschen, Leipzig, Katzbach, Paris, Belle Alliance. The whole was cast in the Boyal Iron Foundry. Churchyards. —In that of the Alt Dorathienstadt are buried Fichte (1814); Hegel (1831); F. Ancillon, the minister (1837); Buttmann the philologer; Gans the lawyer (1836) ; Bauch and Schadow, sculptors. Felix Mendelssohn Bar- tholdy, the amiable and accomplished composer, is buried in the old Drei- faltigkeits ch.-yd., outside the Halle Gate. In the new Dreifaltigkeits ch.-yd. are the graves of Schlciermacher (1834); Neander (1850). Divines: Ludwig Tieck, poet (1853) ; Varnhagen v. Ense (1858), In the Invaliden-Kirchhof ', close to the Hamburg Bailway terminus, are the graves of Scharnhorst, Tauentzicn, Pircli, Witzlebcn and many other brave Prussian soldiers who fell in the war with France. A Corinthian pillar sur¬ mounted by an eagle, called National Krieger Denkmal , has been set up in the Invalids’ Garden, as a monument to the 475 soldiers whose names are inscribed on marble tablets around its base, who fell in defending Berlin and their sove¬ reign from the brutal revolutionary rioters of 1848 and 1849 ; or in fighting against revolutionists in Posen, Dres¬ den, Mainz, Baden, Frankfurt, and other parts of Germany, at that period. Immediately beyond the Branden¬ burg Gate commences the Park ( Thier - garten ), an area nearly 2 m. long, by nearly 1 m. broad, shaded by tall trees, interspersed with shrubberies, with open spaces here and there, and ponds, coffee-houses, &c., among them. It is dull, except when thronged with people on a fine Sunday afternoon. Here are situated KrolVs Winter Garden , and the Painters’ Studios (Maler-Gabaude). A statue of King Frederick Wil¬ liam III., by Drake, with fine bas- reliefs, is erected near the Louisen Insel, —a site which that prince converted from a wilderness into a park. Drake’s studio is in the Thiergarten, and de¬ serves a visit. About 1 m. beyond the Brandenburg Gate is the royal palace of Bellevue , con¬ taining many paintings by modern Ger¬ man artists, such as— Lessing, Hussite Sermons;— Kohler , David’s Triumph;— Beg as, Death of Abel;— Sohn, Bape of Hylas ;— Hasenpflug, the Erfurth and Magdeburg Cathedrals ; — Hermann, Chateau of Stettin; — Catel, Boman Pfifferari; — Fiedler, Amphitheatre at Pola ;— Schmidt, Hallstadt in the Salz- kammergut;—Jeremiah, by Bcndeman, &c. &c. Half an hour’s drive beyond the Bran¬ denburg Gate, behind the Ilofjagers, is the Zoological Garden , containing the Boyal Menagerie. It resembles that in the Begent’s Park. It is open daily ; admission 5 Sgr. The excursion from Berlin to Pots¬ dam, about 19 m., should on no account be omitted. Bailroad trains go thither 6 times a-day in 30-45 min. (Bte. 62.) X Excursion to Charlottenburg will not take more than 3 hrs.; the road thither, about 3 m. long, passes through the Brandenburg Gate, and forms a long straight avenue through the Thiergar¬ ten, bordered by many country houses of the citizens. Charlottenburglms grown from a small village on the Spree, made up chiefly of villas and taverns, into a town of 12,000 Inhab., the summer residence of the rich, and the summer resort of the humbler classes from Berlin. The Palace (Schloss) was built by Fre¬ derick I., who married an English Prussia. 863 ROUTE 61.—CHARLOTTENBURG. REVIEW. princess, Sophia Charlotte, daughter of George I., which will account for the English aspect of its interior. Many rooms are furnished with taste and magnificence. Here are several good pieces of sculpture, as a head of our Saviour by Rauch. The Gardens behind it are open to the public. The entrance to them is through the Orangery, at the extremity of which is the Theatre, where the Berlin com¬ pany performs generally twice a-week, in summer. The gardens are the great resort of Sunday strollers from Berlin. They are prettily laid out, varied by the windings of the Spree, and by sheets of water, abounding in carp of large size and great age. Visitors are in the habit of feeding them with crumbs, and collect them together by the ringing of a hell, at the sound of which the fish may be seen in shoals, popping their noses out of the water. The only object of interest at Charlottenburg is the monument of Louisa Queen of Prussia, the most beautiful and amiable, and at the same time unfortunate princess of her day. She is buried within a small Doric Temple at the extremity of a shady walk, in a retired part of the garden. The Castellan residing in the palace keeps the key, and will show the mo¬ nument to strangers. It is a master¬ piece of the sculptor, Rauch, but perhaps surpassed by the replica at Potsdam. The figure of the queen re¬ poses on a marble sarcophagus. It is a form and face of the most exquisite beauty, but, at the same time, a most perfect resemblance. “ The expression is not that of dull cold death, but of undisturbed repose. The hands are modestly folded on the breast; the atti¬ tude is easy, graceful, and natural. Only the countenance and part of the neck are bare, the rest of the figure is shrouded in an ample and extremely well-wrought drapery. The great charm of the figure is the decent, sim¬ ple, tranquil air, without any striving after effect. I observed no inscription —no pompous catalogue of her titles— no parading eulogy of her virtues ; the Prussian eagle alone, at the foot of the sarcophagus, announces that she be¬ longed to the house of Hohenzollern, and the 7 withered garlands which still hang above her were the first offerings of her children at the grave of their mother.”— Russell. The late king is buried here by the side of his queen. A recumbent statue of him “ with his martial cloak around him,” by Rauch, is placed beside that of his queen. On either side is a white marble candela¬ brum, that with the Fates by Rauch, that with the Three Muses by Tieck. In the course of the autumn, gene¬ rally in September, a Grand Review of the garrison takes place in the neigh¬ bourhood of Berlin; 20,000 troops are sometimes collected, and the ma¬ noeuvres last several days. To see the reviews to advantage a uniform is desirable, though not absolutely neces¬ sary. The reviews are generally held on the ground near the Krcutzberg. The field manoeuvres usually take place between Charlottenburg, Spandau, and Potsdam. They last several days, the regiments bivouacking at night. The operations begin each day about 9. Ladies in carriages are enabled to see the whole by the good arrangement of the gendarmerie. A carriage with a pair of horses may be hired for the day at 5 thalers (15s.). R 2 364 ROUTE 62. —BERLIN TO MAGDEBURG. Sect. V. ROUTE 62. BERLIN TO MAGDEBURG, BY POTSDAM AND BRANDENBURG.—RAILWAY. 18j Pruss. m. == 85^ Eng’, m. Trains to Potsdam six times a day, in 45 minutes. To Magdeburg 3 trains daily in 3 to hours ; Terminus (Bahnhof) outside the Potsdam Gate. The line proceeds past country-seats, taverns, and coffee¬ houses, the resort of the citizens, leaving- on the rt. the Botanic Gardens and village of Schoneberg, in sight of the iron cross on the Kreutzbcrg on the 1 . to 2 Zehlendorf Stat.—Beyond this the road passes through a wood of firs. About 2 m. before reaching Potsdam, on the rt., is the Peacock Island (Pfauen-Insel), surrounded by the Havel. It was a favourite summer retreat of Frederick William III., ori¬ ginally a rabbit-warren, converted into pleasure-grounds, but fallen into neg¬ lect since the death of the king. The scenery of the lake itself is picturesque, more especially when contrasted with the monotonous sandy plains round Berlin. 3£ Potsdam Stat.— Buffet. Inns : Einsiedler (Hermit) ; Deutsches Ilaus (German House). There is a good Restaurant at the Bahnhof. The hotels have greatly fallen off. Persons ap¬ proaching Berlin from Magdeburg may stop for a few hours at Potsdam, leaving their luggage at the Stat. until they have seen all that is worth seeing; or they may visit it from Berlin, taking a return-ticket, but it is a long day’s work. The best plan is to take a carriage from the station for the whole tour; it ought not to cost more than 2 thalers (ask for the tariff and settle beforehand), and a pourboire to the driver, He will driye you in succession i to all the sights, palaces, &c. Besides the station near the town close to the Long Bridge on the E. side of the Havel, there is another at the Wildpark , W. of the Havel. The visitor may begin at Wildpark Stat. and end at the other: thus, to the new Palace through the gardens — to Charlottenhof — the Japanese House—Sans Souci—Sicilian Garden, Windmill, Obelisk, Churches and Palaces in Potsdam—cross the Long Bridge to Potsdam Stat.—thence drive to Babelsberg and back. Potsdam, the Prussian Versailles, lies on the rt. bank of the Havel, which here expands into a lake with finely wooded, picturesque, sloping banks ; it has 42,000 Inhab., including a large garrison. Founded by the Great Elec¬ tor of Brandenburg, it became the re¬ sidence of the Prussian Princes during the rising fortunes of the Royal house, but it owes all its splcmkmr to Fre¬ derick the Great. It may be called a town of palaces, not only from the 4 Royal residences in and about it, but because even the private houses are copied from celebrated edifices, each of which may comprise within it the dwellings of many families. The dull¬ ness of the streets, indeed, often con¬ trasts singularly with the splendour of their architecture. The principal buildings are — The Garnison Kirchc (Ch. of the Garrison). Frederick the Great is buried beneath the pulpit, in a plain metal sarcophagus above ground. His sword, originally laid upon it, was carried off by Napoleon, and all traces of it are lost; but over the tomb, on each side of the pulpit, now hang the eagles and standards taken from Napoleon’s armies by the Prussians ; a fitting retribution, and as it were an atonement, to the shade of the hero for this paltry theft. The other coffin, of marble, in the same vault, is that of William I. Around the walls of the church are tablets in¬ scribed with the names of the brave soldiers who distinguished themselves and perished during the war of Libe¬ ration. The Nicholaikirche , opposite the Schloss, built, 1830-37, by Schinkel, is of the Co¬ rinthian order, surmounted by a dome. Prussia. ROUTE 62. —POTSDAM, SANS SOUCI. 365 The fronton of the portico, and the soffit of the chief door, are ornamented with bas-reliefs of the Besurrection and Ser¬ mon on the Mount, but the outside is not very successful. The interior is splen¬ did, decorated with fresco paintings on a gold ground, of the 12 Apostles, &c., by the first artists of Berlin and Diisseldorf. The ornamental cornices, the capitals of the columns, the pulpit, and the balustrades, arc of zinc. Close to the long bridge which leads from the stat. into the town is the Lustgarten, and contiguous to it the Residenz or Royal Palace , built 1660- 1701. It contains little worth seeing, except the apartments of the Great Fre¬ derick, which remain nearly as they were when he was alive. Here are shown his writing-table blotted all over with ink, his inkstand, music-stand, piano, with music composed by himself in his own writing, green eye-shade, book-case filled with French works, and the chairs and sofa which lie used, their silken covers nearly torn off by the claws of his dogs, and stained with the marks of the plates from which they were fed. The truck bed on which he slept, despising any more comfortable couch, stood behind the silver balus¬ trades, but has been removed because it was worn out, and almost pulled to pieces by relic-hunters. Adjoining the bed-room is a small cabinet with double doors provided with a table which as¬ cends and descends through a trap-door in the floor, while plates and dishes were removed by another trap-door. Here the monarch could dine tete-a-tete with a friend, without being overheard or overlooked, while the dinner was served without requiring the presence of a servant. The singular smoking club, or Tabacks-Collegium, established by Fre¬ derick the Great’s father, used to hold its eccentric and boisterous meetings in the building called Haus am Bassin. Potsdam is the birthplace of King Frederick William III,, to whom a statue by Kiss has been set up in the Wilhelmsplatz; and of the distinguished traveller and philosopher Alexander von Humboldt. The view from the Brauhausberg in¬ cludes Potsdam and all its numerous palaces, the intricate windings of the Havel, and the beautiful green islands which it encircles — a very pleasing- prospect. Sans Souci. — The Gardens begin a few hundred yards outside of the Bran¬ denburg Gate, W. of Potsdam. The entrance is about \ an hour’s walk from the stat. Near it is the Friedenskirchc, a Basilica, with detached campanile, partly copied from that of Murano near Venice, built 1850 from the plans of Persius. It contains an ancient Mosaic from the ch. of St. Cyprien at Murano; and a monument to Fred. William IV., the statue of the Angel of the Besur¬ rection, copied from one in Borne. The gardens are laid out in the stiff formal French taste, with alleys, cut hedges, statues, basins, &c., and are kept in perfect order. A broad avenue runs through them; at the extremity of it lies the New Palace. Near to Potsdam, and on the rt. of the avenue is the Palace of Sans Souci , b. 1745-47, by Frederick the Great, on the top of a flight of step-like terraces. They are fronted with glass, beneath which grow vines, olives, and orange-trees. Fre¬ derick, who took much pride in his gardens and hot-beds, complained once to the Prince de Ligne of the climate and soil under which his orange-trees and vines were pining. “ She,” re¬ plied the courtier, “it appears that with you nothing thrives but your laurels.” The Palace , restored and fitted up as a residence for Frederick William IV., but without altering- its original character, stands on the highest terrace; it is a low, and not a handsome building, but the colonnade behind is fine. At the extremities of this terrace are the graves of Frederick’s favourite dogs, and of his horse that carried him through many of his battles. By his will he directed that he himself should be buried among them, an injunction which was not complied with. This spot was the favourite resort of the old warrior ; here he was brought out in his arm¬ chair, surrounded by his dogs, a short while before his decease, to bask in the sun. “ Je serai bientot plus pres de lui,” were nearly his last words. With¬ in the building may be seen his bed- 366 ROUTE 62. —POTSDAM. SANS SOUCI. WINDMILL. Sect. V. room where he breathed his last; a clock, which he always wound up with his own hand, hut which, being for¬ gotten at last, stopped at the moment of his death, and still points to the hour of his decease, 20 minutes past 2. A portrait of Gustavus Adolphus hangs on the wall, its sole ornament; the bed and arm-chair of Frederick have been removed. Voltaire’s apartment is also pointed out at some distance from that of his Royal host; its walls are co¬ vered with figures, which are pictorial epigrams on Voltaire’s character or habits; e. g. a monkey, meant as a portrait; parrots from his volubility ; stork, from his migrations, coming in summer, quitting in winter. In the gallery hang some paintings by Watteau. On the rt. and 1. of the palace, hut in se¬ parate buildings, are the state apartments and the Picture Gallery ; hut as all the best pictures are removed to Berlin, much time need not he wasted upon it. Among those that remain is one tolerable picture, a Virgin and Child, by Rubens, and there are many by his pupils and imitators, Van Tulden and the like, of inferior merit and value. The Salle de Raphael, in the New Orangerie , is a very elegant apartment. Frederick the Great was not satisfied with his reputation as a general; he must he considered a man of taste, and a judge and patron of art; and as he knew nothing about it, and still would possess a picture gallery, he was most egregiously cheated and imposed upon by the agents and picture dealers whom he employed; paying enormous sums for worthless pictures, and re¬ jecting others of veiy high merit. Thus a painting of Lot and his Daugh¬ ters, sold to him for 30,000 ducats, as a Raphael of the highest excellence, turned out to be the work of a second-rate Fle¬ mish master, Floris, and worth not more than 50 1. He rejected the Holbein now in the Dresden Gallery, which is es¬ teemed the best work of that master. A handsome and lofty Belvedere com¬ mands a panorama of the surrounding- country. The famous Windmill of Sans Souci stands close behind the palace, sepa¬ rated from it only by the road i and still belongs to the descendants of the miller who refused to yield it up to Frederick, when he wanted to pull it down and include the ground in his own gardens, which are rather confined on that side. The original mill was a very small one ; hut after Frederick lost the law¬ suit against the miller, he erected for him the present one on a much larger scale. Some years ago adverse circum¬ stances compelled the owner of the mill to make up his mind to part with it. He in consequence offered it for sale to the late king, who, instead of availing himself of the opportunity, generously settled on the miller a sum sufficient to extricate him from his difficulties, and enable him to maintain himself in his property ; saying that the mill now belonged to Prussian history, and was in a manner a national monument. The broad walk, before mentioned, leads from the foot of the terraces of Sans Souci to the New Palace (Neue Palais), about 2 m. from Potsdam, now residence of the Princess Royal of England and the Crown Prince, who have apartments above the state-rooms. The flower-garden in the English style is the work of H.R.H. This vast brick building was erected at enormous cost by Frederick, by way of bravado, at the end of the Seven Years’ "War, to show his enemies that his finances were not exhausted. It was built in six years, between 1763 and 1769, on a spot pre¬ viously a morass. It contains 7 2 apart¬ ments, exhibiting faded remains of gaudy magnificence. Marble has been pro¬ fusely lavished on the walls and floors; and one large apartment is lined en¬ tirely with shells and minerals, in very had taste. There are still some toler¬ able paintings by Schneyders , and one or two very excellent Luca Giordanos. The most interesting room is that con¬ taining in a small * Library a copy of the works of Frederick the Great, ‘ Dcs (Euvres Melees du Philosophe de Sans Souci. Avec privilege d’ Apollon.’ This copy is a curiosity, as it contains many notes in the hand-writing of Vol¬ taire, some of them severe and cutting- criticisms. Thus, finding the word plat in three or four consecutive lines of the same poem, he writes “\oici Prussia. 367 ROUTE 62. —POTSDAM plus de plats quo dans un tres bon souper.” At another place he writes, “ S’il faut conserver cette epigramnte, il faut la toiu'ner tout autrement.” He points out a piece of false grammar thus, “ On no dit pas louer a.” The remarks, however, are not all in this cutting tone, and in other parts the margin is plentifully sprinkled with “ admirable,” “ ricn de mieux while at the end of one of Frederick’s letters is written, “ Que d’esprit! de grace, d’imagination ! qu’il est doux de vivre aux pieds d’un tel homme ! ” The offices for servants, contained in the building called Communs, facing the New Palace, are now converted into barracks for the trained infantry ■— a draft from every regiment in the Prus¬ sian service—who are instructed and replaced every year by fresh corps, the old ones being distributed through the army to introduce uniformity in the drill and regulations. In the building called the * Antique Temple , close to the New Palace (N.), is a statue of Louisa Queen of Prussia. It is an improvement on that at Char- lottenburg, the result of 15 years’ thought and study on the part of the sculptor, Rauch: it is even more beautiful and touching. It is no larger than life, and represents her asleep. Sans Souci. Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday the Waterworks play. The main fountain rises in a jet 130 ft. high. At the S. side of the gardens, 20 min. walk S.E. of the New Palace, stands Charlottcnhof , a villa built by Frederick William IV., when crown prince, in the style of a Pompeian dwell¬ ing ; following as nearly as possible the arrangement and dimensions of the houses of Pompeii. It exhibits the utmost taste and elegance. In the beautiful garden is an exact imitation of a Pompeian bath, built for use as well as ornament, and decorated with frescoes. The fountains, an antique altar, and several statues and bronzes, were brought from Herculaneum or Pompeii. From Potsdam Stat. you may drive to * Babelsberg , the modern castle of the King of Prussia, built by Schinkel. As it is separated from Potsdam by the . CHARLOTTENIIOF. broad Havel, the visit to* it may be made either before or after that to Potsdam and Sans Souci; it is £ hr.’s drive from the stat. The beautiful grounds, with their terraces and foun¬ tains, were laid out by Prince Piickler Muskau. The rooms have an air of the highest taste and refinement, and contain portraits of our Royal Family, and others connected with Prussia, besides some exquisite specimens of art from the pencil of our Princess Royal. Alex, von Humboldt’s study is kept as he left it. Hence, crossing the Havel by a long bridge, you reach The Marble Palace , erected byFrede- rick William II. on the bank of the lake, adorned by Frederick William IV. with modern paintings, &c. A glance at the exterior of this may suffice. From the Marble Palace you may ascend the Pfingstberg , where the king has erected a huge structure, in imita¬ tion of a villa at Tivoli, the towers of which command a panorama of Pots¬ dam and its environs. On the way from it to Sans Souci you pass through the Russian Colony , or village. It con¬ sists of 11 houses, built entirely after the Russian fashion, and given, with a piece of land, to a party of Russians sent hither by the Emperor Nicholas. The little Chapel belonging to the colony, surmounted by three bulb-shaped domes, is fitted up and adapted to the Greek Church service. It is inferior to the Greek chapel at Wiesbaden. On quitting Potsdam the railroad crosses the Havel, leaving the palace and gardens of Sans Souci on the right. The country between Potsdam and Genthin is varied by the lakes formed by the Havel, some of which are skirted, others traversed by the railroad. Werder Stat., a small town in a lake formed by the Havel. Gross-Kreutz Stat. 4 Brandenburg Stat. — Inns: II. de Brandenburg; Schwarzer Adler; Re¬ staurateur at the Station. A town of 23,700 Inhab. on the Havel, the quarter called the Burg, in which the Cathedral stands, being on an island in the river. It is the seat of considerable commerce. 368 ROUTE 63.— BERLIN TO LEIPZIG. Sect. V. The Dom. A late Romanesque ch., 1170-94, of which date are the crypt and part of choir walls: the rest was built about 1307. It was badly restored in 1836 by Schinkel. On the richly recessed AV. portal are reliefs satirising the monks, such as a fox preaching to a congregation of geese. The interior is ornamented with antique statues and paintings. The high altar (1518), of wood, carved and painted, represents the Coronation of the Virgin, Peter, Paul, &c., figures life-size, with paint¬ ings, the Fathers of the Church, in the style of Mat. Griinewald. Here are the tombs of Episcopal Margraves, some of them of terracotta , incised and in relief, of 13th and 14th centuries. The Font (15th centy.) bears reliefs of the youth of our Saviour, but they have been painted over. In the crypt is the bishop’s throne, 13th cent. The clois¬ ters deserve notice. In the chamber of antiquities adjoining the Ch. is a model of the Marienkirche, of Byzan¬ tine architecture, 12th cent., destroyed 1722, various carvings, altar-pieces, paintings. In a second chamber arc some relics once held in great venera¬ tion here, c. g. a stud from the bedstead of the Virgin; the manger out of which Joseph’s ass fed in the flight into Egypt; the pocket of David’s sling ; the head of Goliath’s staff and his purse, &c. The Ch. of St. Katherine , built 1401, is one of the richest examples of German brick architecture. At the upper end of the transepts are immense screens of rich open tracery, formed of clay, baked and glazed, in colour dark green, with statuettes of the same in the niches. Here is a richly carved altarpiece of wood, a brass font adorned with many figures, by F. Morner, 1440, and on 1. a monument of the Scliulcnburg family, 1595. The Altstadt Eathhaus is a fine Gothic monument, 1350; and several of the town gates, especially the Muhlen-Thor (d. 1440), the Stein-Thor, and the Rath- enower-Thor (1375), have picturesque towers of brick, and deserve notice. In the market-place is a Rolandsdule 18 ft. high (date 1404), 1| AVusterwitz Stat. On the lake of Plauen, which is connected with the Elbe by a canal. The rail runs near the canal on its S. side. 2.2 Genthin Stat. Inn , Goldene Stern. Giisen Stat. 3T Burg. Stat. Inns kept by Roland and Schroeder. A busy and flourishing town of 15,000 Inhab., ^th of whom are engaged in the manufacture of cloth, established here originally by French Protestant emigrants. Hohenwarte Stat. The Elbe spreads itself out, and forms several islands, which are crossed by the railway on iron lattice-bridges. It traverses the Tete du Pont on the rt. bank. 3 j Magdeburg Stat. Rte. 66. f\ ROUTE 63. BERLIN TO LEIPZIG, BY WITTENBERG, KOTHEN, HALLE, WoRLITZ, AND DESSAU.—RAILWAY. 29 Prus. m. =137 Eng. m. Trains in 6-J; hours. Terminus outside the Anhalt gate. On quitting Berlin the Krcutzberg is passed on the left, soon after The tower of Teltow rises on the right. 2T Gross-Bccrcn Stat. The Church, with its seven turrets, is seen on the left. A cast-iron Obelisk , ornamented with a cross, commemorates the victory of Aug. 23, 1813, gained here by the Prussians under Billow, over the French under Oudinot. Ludwigsfeldc Stat. 2 (rt.) Trebbin Stat., a town of 1400 Inhab. Prussia. 369 ROUTE 63. —WITTENBERG. LUTHER’S HOUSE. 2 (1.) Luckcnwaldc Stat., a town of 5000 Inhab., on the Xu the, famed for its manufacture of broad cloth. (1.) In a wood, near the convent of Zinna, the monk Tctzcl was waylaid and robbed of the money he had ob¬ tained by selling indulgences. If (1.) Jliterbog Junct. Stat. Inn , Post. This ancient Wendic town of 5000 Inhab. is 1 m. from the railroad. In the handsome Gothic Ch. of St. Nicholas is preserved the Indulgence-box (Ab- lasskasten) of Tctzcl, Luther’s anta¬ gonist, who was waylaid by a robber knight, Hans von Hacke, as he was returning with it filled with gold, the produce of the pardons he had sold. Tctzcl had previously granted the knight an indemnity for any sins he might commit. It is a large wooden alms-box, hooped with iron, having a slit on the top. See also a carved box for Mass robes; and a Tabernacle for the Sacrament. The antique walls and gates—especially the Frauenthor , de¬ serve notice. The direct Railroad to Dresden (Etc. 05) turns off here. A little beyond Jiitterbog, on the 1., is JDennewitz, another battle-field where the Prussians under Eiilow were successful, Sept. 6, 1813, against the French, under Xey and Ouclinot. 10,000 French were taken prisoners, and Berlin saved from falling into their hands. A monument of the battle has been erected near Nieder-Gorsdorf. 2'f (1.) Zahna Stat. If Wittenberg Station. The Bahnliof Rcstauration affords lodging as well as refreshment to hungry passen¬ gers. Wittenberg {Inns: Weintraubc, and Stadt London) is a fortified town on the rt. bank of the Elbe, 11,000 In¬ hab., dirty and ill paved. 3 or 4 hours will (suffice to see it. It has been termed the Protestant Mecca. It was the cradle of the Reformation, since it was in this place that Luther openly engaged in opposition to the Church of Rome, and denounced its evil prac¬ tices and abuses. He was professor of theology and philosophy at the once famous University founded here by the Elector of Saxony, now re¬ moved and incorporated with that of Halle. It is mentioned by Shakspeare as the school where Hamlet studied. Luther and his friend Mclancthon arc both buried in the Schloss Kirche; two tablets of bronze inserted in the pavement mark their graves. Here are also the tombs of Frederick the Wise and John the Steadfast, Elec¬ tors of Saxony, the friends of Luther and of the Reformation. The monu¬ ment of Frederick is a fine work of art, by Peter Vischcr , 1527 ; his bronze statue is full of life, and of a noble character, while the Gothic work of the niche in which it is placed also deserves notice. Here is a Coronation of the Virgin, also by P. Vischer, in relief—a duplicate of that at Erfurt. Against the doors of this church (burnt by the French, re¬ placed by bronze gates from Qucist’s design) Luther hung up his 95 theses or arguments condemning the doctrine of papal indulgences, which he offered, after the fashion of the times, to defend against all comers. Luther’s house or lodging in the old University Buildings, formed out of the ancient Augustine Convent, where he lived after his marriage, still remains almost unaltered. In it are kept his chair and table at which he wrote, the jug from which he drank, his stove made according to his own directions with peculiar devices, his professor’s chair, 2 portraits of him by Cranach , and a very curious cast of his face after death. Over one door is the auto¬ graph, in chalk, of Peter the Great, now covered with glass to protect it. These two places are shown by the same person, who lives near the Post, and arc at opposite ends of the town. In the way between are pointed out the houses of Cranach and Melanchtlion, and at the Elster Gate, immediately beyond the house of Luther, is the Oak Tree planted on the site of that under which Luther burnt the Papal Bull, Dec. 10, 1520. In the Market Place in the middle of the town, beneath a Gothic canopy of cast iron, is a bronze statue of R 3 370 ROUTE 63. —WITTENBERG. DESSAU. Luther, by Schadow , erected 1822: on one side of the pedestal are the lines “ Ist’s Gottes Werk, sowird’s bestehen, 1st’ sMenschenwerk, wird’s untergehen.” (If it be the work of God, it will en¬ dure ; if of Man, it will perish.) On another— “ Eine feste Burg ist unser Gott.” Close to this is the Hathhaus. It con¬ tains portraits of Luther and Mclanch- thon, with their contemporary profes¬ sors, by Cranach , who was burgomaster here ; also a singular picture painted by him 1516, illustrative of the 10 com¬ mandments, according to the old divi¬ sion ;—also an original portrait of Gustavus Adolphus; his sword, which he left as a present after a visit to the sights of Wittenberg; and among other relics and curiosities illustrating the history of the Reformation, the top of Luther’s sacramental cup, and his rosary which he carried when a monk. In the Stadt Kirche , close at hand, is the handsome bronze font by Herman Yischer, 1457, at which Luther and Me- lancthon baptized. Here also (though not from the existing pulpit) Luther preached. Here are two curious but poor pictures by Cranach (?)—1. The altar-piece representing the 4 sacra¬ ments ; the Lord’s Supper, in which the painter himself appears as a servant; Baptism, in which Mclancthon offi¬ ciates ; Preaching, in which Luther addresses a congregation of which the two foremost figures are his wife and son; Penance, administered by Bugenhagen. 2. In one of the aisles a painting represents the Vineyard of the Lord as misused by the Pope and his followers, and well cultivated by the Reformers. The Castle in which lived the Electors of Saxony down to 1542, is now the Citadel. Wittenberg has suffered severely from sieges. In 1760, the chief public buildings and one-third of the town were destroyed by the Austrian bom¬ bardment. It was taken by the Prus¬ sians under Tauentzien, from the French, by storm, in 1814, after a siege Sect. V. of ten months, during which the sub¬ urbs were laid in ruins. The railway, proceeding along the rt. bank of the Elbe, enters the terri¬ tory of Anhalt-Bernburg. 1| Coswig Stat. An old town of 2800 Inhab., on the rt. bank of the Elbe, well placed, but behind it is a sandy desert. [3 m. from this, on the opposite bank of the Elbe, is Worlitz, (Inn, Eichencranz,) the , Prince of Anhalt Dessau’s summer residence, famed for its Gardens , or Park as it is termed, which arc among the finest in Germany, and, though in a flat, are worth a visit. The great beauty of the trees, many fine speci¬ mens of American oaks, and the good keeping of the place, arc remarkable. They may be reached from Coswig by a ferry, 1 m. below the town. The gardens arc separated from the Elbe by a high embankment which is ren¬ dered ornamental by plantations, and commands a good view; their great feature is a fine lake, from which streamlets and canals are conducted to all parts : temples, bridges, and other buildings, are profusely scattered through the grounds. The Neumark garden occupies 3 islands. In Schoch’s garden is a Gothic house, containing paintings by old German masters, L. Cranach, &c., a bas-relief carved in wood by A. Diirer, some old ar¬ mour, and other curiosities. In order to visit Wbrlitz the railway should bo left at Coswig, and a car¬ riage hired as far as Dessau, another railroad stat. (or vice versa if the tra¬ veller is going to Berlin). Oranien- baum, a ducal palace, may be seen be¬ tween Worlitz and Dessau.] 2^ Roslau Stat. A town of 1000 Inhab., at the junction of the Rossla with the Elbe. Here is a ruined Castle of the princes of Anhalt-Kothcn. The railway is next carried over the Elbe by a bridge 721 feet long, ap¬ proached by several smaller bridges, and shortly afterwards it crosses the Mulde. § Dessau Station, outside the Aken gate. Dessau, capital of the dukedom of Anhalt-Dessau, is a town of 18,864 Prussia. ROUTE 63. —KOTHEN. HALLE. Inhab., on the left hank of the Mulde, which enters the Elbe a little below it. (/mis: Beutcl; Eing; Hirsch.) Owing to a conflagration which consumed the town (1467), it has no ancient build¬ ings. The Ducal Palace is the prin¬ cipal edifice; it was built 1748, and contains a Library , in which are many MSS. of Luther, a cabinet of curiosi¬ ties, jewels, antiques, &c. ; and a Pic¬ ture Gallery , with many Italian pic¬ tures, including one which calls itself a Raphael , but without just claim. In the lower story curiosities and relics— the sword of P. Leopold of Anhalt; Napoleon’s silver basin and plate cap¬ tured at Waterloo. In the Schloss Kirche , a building of the 16th cent., is a celebrated Last Supper by Cranach , who introduced into it portraits of the chief promoters of the Eeformation. Here the ducal family are buried. Moses Mendelssohn was born at Dessau. The vicinity of Dessau, originally a sandy waste, has been converted into gardens, which form its chief orna¬ ment : these are called Georgengarten , Louisium , and Sieglizerberg : but more remarkable are those of Worlitz, 7 m. from Dessau ; see above. KoThen, or Cothen , junction sta¬ tion. Here the lines from Berlin, Magdeburg (Ete. 64), Bemburg, and Leipsig meet. Trains are here changed. The station-house, built by the Duke of Anhalt-Kbthen, includes a refresh¬ ment room, where a good dinner may be obtained, and a Gaming-house , where passengers may lose their time and cash during the half-hour that some trains wait here. Kothcn is a town of 6000 Inhab. (Inn: Prinz Jvon Preussen), and resi¬ dence of the Duke of Anhalt-Kbthen. [A branch railway to Bemburg, 2~ Pruss. m., in \ hr. Bemburg (Inn: Goldnc Kugel), capital of the duchy of Anhalt-Bernburg, with 7000 Inhab., on the river Saale. The Schloss stands on the summit of a height rising precipitously from the Saale ; its oldest part is a keep tower called Eulenspiegcl , more than 120 ft. high ; the rest of the 371 edifice was erected in the 15th and 17th centuries. It is now the residence of the Erbprinz, and contains a collection of family portraits. The Marienkirche was founded in the 10th cent., but re¬ paired internally in 1811; above the choir are statues of 8 princes of the house of Anhalt. St. Nicholas, in the new town, is also an old ch. A coach twice a day to Quedlinburg.] The line to Leipzig leaves, a little on the 1., the old Wenclic town of Zbrbig, near to 2| Stumsdorf Stat.; and on approach¬ ing Halle, passes, on the rt., the ruined castle Giebichenstein , once a state prison of the emperors of Germany, out of which the Landgrave Louis of Thurin¬ gia, imprisoned by the Empr. Henry IV., escaped by leaping from a window. 2£ IIalle Stat. — Inns: Zum Gol- denen Kugel, kept by Mentes, close to the Stat.; *Stadt Hamburg, near the Post-office, best. A town of 27,000 In¬ hab., on the Saale, principally remark¬ able for its University , founded in 1694, by Frederick I. of Prussia, to which that of Wittenberg was transferred in 1815. The average number of students at present is 750. It is especially renowned as a school of Protestant theology. Its professors, Tholuck and Gescnius (lately dead), rank as the 2 most eminent Hebrew scholars of the age. The handsome University building was erected 1834. Near it is the new Zuchthaus (Penitentiary). Halle is an antiquated town, possess¬ ing several curious architectural monu¬ ments, among them the Red Tower , standing isolated in the market-place; and not far from it a colossal bronze statue of Ilandel the composer, born at Halle 1685, erected 1859, from Heidel’s design, by his admirers in England and Germany. The Markthirche , an elegant Go¬ thic building, completed 1554, flanked by 4 towers, 2 of which, joined by a bridge, are inhabited by the custos. It contains a remarkable picture by Lucas Cranach , turning on a pivot, and opening with 4 shutters : the chief subjects are the Annunciation, and 372 ROUTE 63. —HALLE. Sect. V. the Madonna and Child on the crescent, surrounded by angels, with the Cardl. Albert of Brandenburg (for whom it was painted, 1528) in the corner, and a back ground of landscape. The wings or shutters bearing figures of saints. [Apply to the Kfister, who lives in the house next the ch., to open thispicture.] The altar-piece (the Sermon on the Mount) is by Hubner, an artist of the Diisseldorf school. The Marriage of St. Catherine is likewise by Cranach. High up against the triforium is a coloured medallion head, probably of terra cotta, of Luther, inscribed u Sanc- tus Doctor M. Lutherus, Prophcta Ger- manice.” The font of bronze ; date 1430. The Moritzkirche, in the lower part of the town, near the Salt Works (built 1156, choir 1388, restored 1840), a small but fine Gothic church, elabo¬ rately vaulted, with stone pendants de¬ scending from the roof, has a very remarkable altar-piece of carved work, 20 feet high, in the style of the Cus- todias of Israel von Meckenen , date 1488. The centre opens and discloses niches, each filled with a bas-relief from our Lord’s Passion, painted and gilt. On the outside are 10 paintings of the Westphalian school, also on shutters. The pulpit is of sandstone, elaborately carved in the stylo of a later period (1588) and gilt. The stem bears the representation of Sin, Death, and the Devil (the Temptation of Eve) ; the other carvings are scriptural subjects from the Creation to the Crucifixion. In the Residenz, once palace of the Archbishop, occurred the humiliation of Philip Landgrave of Hesse, who was here obliged to throw himself at the feet of the Emp. Charles Y., after the defeat of the Protestants at Mlililberg, 1547. It is now attached to the Uni¬ versity, and contains a collection of Antiquities. The Orphan House (Waisenhaus), in the suburb of Glauca, called from its founder (1698), who was a clergyman and professor of Halle, Franke’s Institute is a liberal and munificent establish¬ ment. It embraces also schools for the education of children of both sexes, and of various stations, though chiefly of the poorer classes, to the number of 2220 ; a Laboratory , where medicines are prepared and distributed, and a Printing Office for Bibles, which are sold at a low price. Frankc began without funds of his own, with no resource but a reliance on Providence. The building is now ornamented with an admirable Statue in bronze of the Founder, by Rauch, raised to his memory by a public subscription, to which King William Frederick III. of Prussia largely con¬ tributed. The name Hallo (Greek a\s ?) is derived from the Salt Springs, which have been known from very remote times. The labourers employed in them are a peculiar and distinct race, called Ilalloren, supposed to be the descend¬ ants of the Wends, who anciently peo¬ pled this country. They are said still to preserve the physiognomy, customs, and even costume of their ancestors. Some of the springs rise within the town, and are boiled there, but the Royal Salt Works ( Salinen ) are situated without the walls on an island in the Saale. The brine is pumped up by a steam-engine, and is conveyed to them in pipes; it is strong enough to be fit at once for boiling; the fuel used is the brown coal, which abounds in this neighbourhood. The annual produce is 220,000 cwt. of salt, valued at 125,000 dollars ; it forms almost the sole article of commerce, excepting porcelain earth, found near Halle, and used in the China works at Berlin. Outside the walls, on the E., is an elegant monument to the soldiery who died here of the wounds received in the battle of Leipzig, 1813. Here is buried Gesenius, the Hebrew scholar, not far from the Cathedral. The old castle of Moritsburg was reduced to a ruin during the Thirty Years’ war. 72 mile outside the gate is the castle of Giebichenstein (see above), and near it the Wittekind Bad, about 1 m. from Halle, much frequented in summer for its brine baths. Carding thistles and carraways are largely cultivated in this neighbourhood: it also furnishes the greater portion of what are called Leipzig Larks, which are caught by the Halloren, and sent to Leipzig as dainties for the table. Prussia. 373 ROUTE 64. -MAGDEBURG TO LEIPZIG. Railway to Weissenfels, Weimar, and Eisenach (Route 86). An interesting excursion may be made from Halle to Krbllwitz. 2^ Schkeuditz Stat. Ascending the valley of the Elster, we pass (1.) the battle-field of Breiten- feld , where Gustavus Adolphus defeated Tilly, 1631. On the highest ground upon the field, 2 m. from the Railway (1.), is a monument surrounded by 8 fir trees. Mockern, close to the line (rt.), distinguished by its ch. spire, was a fiercely contested point during the battle of Leipzig, between the troops of York and Marmont, until Blucher drove back the French. Tf Leipzig. (Rte. 86.) Terminus between the suburbs of Hallo and Grimma, close to that of the Dresden Railway. ROUTE 64. MAGDEBURG TO LEIPZIG, BY KoTIIEN.— RAILROAD. 15g German m. = 73 English m. Trains 3 times a day, in 3£- hours. Terminus in Magdeburg, at the FiirstenwaU, close to the Elbe bridge. Magdeburg is described in Rte. 66. The train, on quitting the fortifica¬ tions, passes near the Fort Sternschanze, 2 Schoncbeck Stat., a flourishing town. [rt. Branch Railway to Strassfurt (Buffet), where, as w r ell as at Gross Salza, there arc salt-works. Schnell- post to AscJierslcben (Schwarzer Ross), a town of 13,000 Inhab., whence coaches to Harzgcrode in the Hartz.] (1.) Gnadau is a Moravian colony. The most considerable work on this line is the'bridge, 1370 ft. long, resting on 30 piers, by which the railroad is carried over the river Saale near Grizena. 1§ Saale Stat., situated 1 m. below Kalbe, an old town of 4000 Inhab. rt. The towers of Bernburg (Rte. 63) are just visible from the railroad. (1.) Alien, a Prussian town of 3200 Inhab., near the Elbe, is seen before reaching 2| Kothcn June. Station , where the lines to Berlin and Leipzig meet (see Rte. 63), and where the train stops half an hour. Leipzig Station. (Rte. 86.) ROUTE 65. BERLIN TO DRESDEN.—RAILWAY. 25| Germ, m: = 117 Eng. m. Trains twice a day each way, morn¬ ing and afternoon, in 6 hours. As far as 8jj Jtiterbog is described in Rte. 63. From Jtiterbog the railway (10| Germ, m.) runs W. of the old post road, pass¬ ing by (1.) Herzberg and (rt.) Miihl- berg, the battlefield, 1547 (see Rte. 87), and falls into the Leipzig and Dresden railway, at Roderan, near Riesa, close to the viaduct. See, for the railroad thence to 64 Germ. m. Dresden, and descrip¬ tion of Dresden, Rte. 87. 374 ROUTE 66.—COLOGNE TO BERLIN. Sect. Y. ROUTE 66. COLOGNE TO BERLIN, BY MINDEN, HANOVER, BRUNSWICK, MAGDEBURG —COLOGNE AND MINDEN RAILWAY. To Minden, trains in Of hrs.; express 6f lirs.— Hanover 43j Germ. in.— Brunswick, 53. — Magdeburg, 66f. — Berlin, 8= 403 Eng. m.— Express in 14^- hrs. to Berlin, allowing time for refreshment at Minden. The Station is in Deutz, on the op¬ posite side of the river to Cologne; but express trains start from the Central Bahnhof, in Cologne, crossing the Bliinc by the permanent iron bridge. 5 Miilheim Stat. llte. 34. 1^ Kiippersteg Stat. 1 Langenfeld Stat. The AYupper is crossed. 1 Benrath Stat. 1 Diisseldorf Stat. See Rte. 34. 1 Calkum Stat. £ m. from Ivaisers- werth, the asylum of Pastor Fliedner, and not far from Schloss Heltorf, Etc. 35. 1 Grossenbaum Stat. 3 Duisburg Stat. See Ete. 34. After leaving Duisburg, the line, which has hitherto run in nearly a N. direction, turns to the E., and crosses the river Ruhr, about half-way between Duisburg and 1 Obcrhausen Junct. Stat. (Buffet). Railways to Emmerich and Holland (Rte. 34) ; to Ruhrort on the Rhine, and thence direct to Aix-la-Chapellc (Rte. 36 a). About 80 trains pass this stat. daily. Near Oberliausen arc the Iron-works of Jacobi and Co., nearly the largest in Germany. There arc extensive coalfields on the banks of the Ruhr, and about 4 m.’ S. of this station lies Muhlheim on the Ruhr, an industrious town of 6400 Inliab., where steam engines are made. It is con¬ nected with the main line by a branch railroad. 1 Bcrge-Borbeck Stat. A coal stat. 1 Essen Stat. The town, 1^ m. from the Railway (Schmidt’s, Sauer’s, and Berghaus’s Inns'), is not seen from the line. It was a Free City down to 1563, when it was placed under a Princess Abbess; it has now become a manufac¬ turing town of rapid rise : has already 20,800 Inliab. It lies in a productive coal-field. Its handsome *Minstcr, re¬ built 1265-1316, retains Romanesque portions. Its AY. front and choir, forming 3 sides of an octagon, are a copy of the Dom of Aix. Here is a huge bronze 7-armed candlestick, gift of Mechtildis, sister of the Emperor Otho III., 998. In the sacristy arc precious reliquaries, crosses, &c. The Protestants have had a Ch. here since 1561 ; the building is of the 11th cent. Chimneys rise on all sides. Those of Krupp’s Cast-steel Factory is the most conspicuous : his breech-loading cannon are famed, having been tried in Russia and other parts of the world, but arc not equal to Armstrong’s. After leaving this, until the next station but one is reached, the line passes over a rich coal¬ field. 1 Gelsenkirchen Stat. 1 Herne-Bochum Stat. 1 Kastrop Stat. 1 Mengede Stat. 1 Dortmund Junct. Stat. Inns: Romis- cher Kaiser ;—Bellevue, near the Stat. 23,400 Inhab. This ancient walled city was once a free Imperial Hanse town, and chief seat of the Yehme. In the Bahnhof itself was the place of meeting of the most celebrated of all the tribunals held in the district of the “ Red earth.” Under the venerable lime-tree still growing on the AY. side of the station (the second was blown down 1859) the naked savoiR of justice and the willow-wythe Averc laid upon a Prussia. ROUTE 66.—DORTMUND. IIERFORD. 375 stone table before the assembled judges. | In 1429 the Emp. Sigismund was ini¬ tiated in “ the Konigshof under the lime-tree at Dortmund,” kneeling on his right knee bared, with head un¬ covered, before the Frcigraf, his 2 fore¬ fingers of right hand on the cord, 2 swords laid crosswise before him. Thus he took the oath to keep the secrets of the Yehme, and received the watch¬ word “ Strick, Stein, Grass, Grein,” the meaning of which, as well as of the Nothwort “ Reinir dor Fcweri,” has been so well kept that its meaning is no longer understood. In the process of time the Yehme degenerated into a sort of police court, and the last meeting was held here 1803. See the Ch. of St. Reinhold— a rich Pointed Gothic choir (1421-50), attached to a nave of 1250; it has good painted glass. Ohs. the carved altar-stalls ; 2 wooden sta¬ tues of St. Reinhold and Charlemagne; a bronze font; lettern, eagle, and chan¬ delier. St. Mary's (12th cent., with Pointed choir) and the Catholic Churches contain much that is worth notice. The Rathhaus (13th cent.) is one of the oldest town-halls in Germany. The Marienhirche also contains 2 re¬ markable altarpieces by painters of the Westphalian school, while in the Gath. Ch. is a very large altarpicce of the brothers Victor and H. Diinwegge (1521), natives of Dortmund. Dort¬ mund is now a place of considerable manufacturing industry. Here the Railway from Elbcrfeld and the Duchy of Berg to Hagen and Soest joins the Minden line. (See Rte. 67.) The railroad next passes through the extremely fertile district called thellell- weg, the 1ST. part of the Grafschaft Mark. 2 Kamcn Stat. [A little to the S. of this lies Unna.— Inn, Konig von Preus- sen. Between this town and the station are the very extensive salt works, sup¬ plied by brine springs, and the newly opened baths of Konigshorn. Here was the head-quarters of the Vehmgericht (sec Rte. 67).] 2 Hamm Junction Stat. (Inn : Prinz v. Preussen, at the Stat.) Here branch Railways turn off N. to Munster (see Rte, 69), and E, to Paderborn and Cassel (Rte. 68). Hamm on the Lippe is the principal town of the Grafschaft Mark, and has 10,000 Inhab., 3 Pro¬ testant churches and 1 Catholic. Across the Lippe.- . 3 Beckum Stat. 1 Oelde Stat. 1 Rheda Stat. The Ems, which falls into the sea at Emden, is crossed. 1 Giitersloh Stat.— Inn , Rieter’s. His Westphalian hams (the best cost about 4 groschcn a-pound). and the spirit ex¬ tracted from wacholder berries, called steenhager, are celebrated. The black bread (pumpernickel) is peculiar to Westphalia. 2 Brackwede Stat. 1 Bielefeld Stat. — Inns : Dreikro- nen; Ravensbergcr Hof. The centre of the Westphalian linen trade; a town of 15,000 Inhab. In St. Martin's Ch. are 2 old monuments and some paintings. On a neighbouring hill rises the round tower of the Castle Sparenberg , erected 1545 and fortified according to A. Dii- rer’s system, on the site of an older Guclphic fortress : it is now a prison. The surrounding country of the Teuto- burger Wald and the walks around the town are pretty. A coach goes hence to Pyrmont daily in summer. There is a good road to Detmold from Bielefeld, 3 G. m. It is supposed that Hermann (Ar- minius) fought the great battle against the Romans (Clades Varana) some¬ where on the banks of the Senne : and the numerous tumuli on its banks, with the urns and other funeral remains found in and about them, confirm the be¬ lief. (See Rte. 68 and 69 a.) Hear Brake a Viaduct 1200 feet long is crossed. 2 Ilcrford Stat.— Inns: Stadt Ber¬ lin; Wcsscl’s Hotel. On the Wcrre, a small stream; 10,000 Inhab. The Mini¬ ster Kirche , a vast Romanesque build¬ ing (13th cent.) resembling the Dom of Paderborn, was formerly attached to a nunnery, whose abbess was a prin¬ cess. St. John’s contains good painted glass of 15th cent. The Stiftshirche (. St. Marien auf dcr Berg), outside the town, is a beautiful Gothic edifice, 14th cent., composed of 3 aisles of equal breadth. A carved altar-piece of open work deserves notice. In the streets 376 ROUTE 66.—MINDEX. BUCKEBURG. Sect. V. are several curious and picturesque houses, stone and wood, of 16th cent. £ In the Ch. of Engers, 5 m. to the E., is shown the tomb of Witte kind, chief ! of the Saxons, 12th cent. This now I obscure village was the seat of the government of AYittekind, the most formidable opponent of Charlemagne. About 20 m. S.E. lies Dctmold. (See | Iite. 69 a.) 1 Rehme Stat,— Inn, A'ogcler’s. Here are considerable salt-works belonging to J the Prussian government; the salt water obtained from an artesian well bored to a depth of 3220 ft., perhaps the deepest in the world. It is converted into brine, tit for boiling,by causing it to evaporate in trickling over stacks of faggots. The ! brine rises with a temperature of 92° Eahr., and possesses valuable medicinal ] iroperties: it is much used in brine- baths, which have been established at the new watering-place, called Oe;/n- haitsen. ( Inns : Yogeler’s ; Victoria). Physician, Dr. Alfter; speaks English. The waters arc efficacious in rheuma- t ism and lameness. The railroad here crosses the river AVeser. Lohne June. Stat. Here the Ply. from Osnabriick and Emden (llte. 69) falls in. 2 Porta Stat. AVithin about 2 m. of A linden the railroad traverses the pass called Porta Westphalica. It is a wide rent in the undulating chain of mountains called AYiehengcbirge, through which the river AVeser finds a passage to the sea, traversing a plain above as well as below the pass. The hills on cither side of this breach, the “ door-posts,” as it were, of the gates, showing at their base rocks of red sandstone, are called Jacobsberg and AVittekindsberg; the last is named from a castle of the Saxon hero which once stood oil it, and is now replaced by a Belvedere or stone tower. Near it is a ruined chapel in which, according to the tradition, AVittc- kind was baptized by Charlemagne. The view from the tops of these hills is j very extensive. The AVeser, the high road on its 1. bank and the railroad on its rt., fill up the pass. Here are quar¬ ries of red building-stone (sandstone). 1 Minden Stat. Minden (Prcussisch)— Inns, Eiscn- bahngasthof, tolerable ; Twietmaycr’s II., near the Stat.; A’ictoria; Stadt London—is a strong fortress, belonging to Prussia, with 15,500 Inhab. in¬ cluding garrison, on the AVeser, which is crossed by a stone bridge, 600 ft. long, built in 1518, separating the Prus- sianterritory from the domainsof Lippe- Schaumburg. It was the residence of several early German Emperors, and many Diets were held here. The Ca¬ thedral is a cruciform building, of 13tli cent. Gothic, not very large, but con¬ taining 6 large windows in the aisles, remarkable for their fan-shaped tracery —truly magnificent—“ running riot in its foliations.” The plain and massive AV. end and tower (lltli cent.) and chancel arch arc Romanesque. The cloisters good and perfect. Near them is a curious house of Romanesque architecture. In the Ch. is a painting by II. Aldegrever, a AVcstphalian artist, early in the 16th cent., of AYittekind coming to Charlemagne to be baptized. St. Martin's, on a height approached by steps, commands a pleasing view. Obs. the delicate tracery in its apse, and the carved stone seats. The fortifications were blown up by Frederick the Great at the end of the Seven Years’ AYar, but have since been renewed and lately enlarged on account of the railway. The French blew up one arch of the stone bridge 1813, and it is replaced by a wooden one. N. of the town, around the village of Todtenhausen, lies the field of the Battle of Minden, gained by Prince Ferdinand of Brunswick over the French in 1759. A Gothic monument since 1859 marks the spot. Steamers on the AVeser, down to Bre¬ men, and up to Minden. (Rtc. 74 a.) rt. Between Minden and Hanover the AYescrgebirge, a fine range of hills, bounds the horizon. Biickeburg Stat. (Inns : Deutsches Ilaus; Berliner Hof) is the chief town of the little principality of Schaumburg- Lippe, and contains 2000 Inhab. The prince resides in a large and ugly Palace, with a pretty garden and park. [[About 9 m. from Biickeburg, through Eilsen (a sulphur bath), Arusburg, and Prussia. ROUTE 66.—HANOVER. 377 Bernscn, rises tlie Pascheriburg , one of the highest hills on the Wcscr (1115ft.), surmounted by an Inn: a very extensive view—looking down upon the old castle of Schaumburg , the course of the Wcscr discerned in 19 different spots, the Brocken, the Grotenberg, and about 100 towns and villages.] Stadthagen Stat. The handsome mausoleum of Prince Ernest, attached to the church, deserves notice. Haste Stat. [About 4 m. S. of this lies Nenndorf, a watering-place belong¬ ing to the Elector of Hesse, who has a chateau, here. Strangers are accom¬ modated in the three bath-houses, and there is a table-d’hote daily, during the season, in the Arkaden Saal, The waters are cold and sulphureous, and are used for drinking as well as for baths.] 'Wunstorf Junction. Stat. Here is the junction of the Pail road from Bremen (Etc. 72 a). The Lcine river is crossed; rt. is Herrenhausen Palace (see next page). / « / V* Hanover Station, a handsome build¬ ing. — Hanover (Germ. Hannover).— Inns, near the Stat.: British Hotel, civil landlord; first-rate B. ; 1st floor, 15 S. gr.; service, S. gr.; table-d’hotc at 1 and 4, 20 S. gr. without wine ;— II. Royal (room and light, 16 g. gr.; dinner, 12 ; breakfast, 6 ; service, 4 g. gr.);—H. de Bussie, moderate;—Union H.: all first-class hotels;—'Victoria H.; —H. de T Europe. In the town : H. de Ilannovre; Romischer Kaiser: good and moderate houses. The capital of the kingdom of Hanover is situated in a plain on the Leine, a small stream, and has 76,000 In hah. Great improve¬ ments have taken place since the per¬ manent residence of the Court, in 1837. It is now a beautiful town. A new quarter, of scattered houses, gardens, and terraces, not unlike the Eegent’s Park, has risen up near the Ely. Stat. The old town, though dull, is remark¬ able for considerable quaintness and picturesqueness of its house architec¬ ture, but many of the Gothic houses are pulled down. The *Poyal Palace (Schloss) is a handsome building, overlooking the Waterloo Platz, and is fitted up in a style of considerable, splendour. The Bitter Saal is a fine apartment. There is a large collection of portraits: among them are those of Elizabeth Queen of Bohemia; Geo. I., II., III., and IV. ; Wm. IV.; the Duke of Wellington on a grey horse, by Lucas; Pitt, by Law¬ rence; Napoleon before Ratisbon, Adolph Adam ; and numerous other pictures of the modern German school. The Plate- room (Silborkammer) is also shown : it contains old and modern plate of great value and rare workmanship. The Reliquarium , a small chamber near the Schlosskirche, is filled with relics in shrines and cases of silver and enamel, of early date and curious art, which once formed the treasure of the Dom at Brunswick. This remarkable collection of mediaeval antiquities is under the charge of the Ober Hof-Commissar, and is shown by tickets, obtained at the office in the W. wing of the Palace, on payment of 5 S. gr. Some of the relics were brought from the Holy Land by Henry the Lion. Among 6 or 8 port¬ able altars, chiefly of champ-levee enamel, is one of more rare cloi- sonnee enamel, beautifully wrought with columns and arches ; 10 cases, in the shape of arms and hands, chiefly 14th century; a vase, worked with dragon’s heads; a chasse, in the form of a church, with a dome covered with enamels ; many small figures carved in walrus-tusk ivory; other ivory carv¬ ings ; one Byzantine of 12th or 13th century, very fine. The departure of George I. from Han¬ over to ascend the throne of England occasioned little or no alteration in his court; the same number of chamber¬ lains, and an equally large stud of horses, were maintained at the expense of the country. Even court levees were held regularly every Sunday, with this difference—that, instead of the Elector, his portrait was placed on the state chair at the end of the apartment. Every courtier, as he entered, bowed to it as he would have done to the original; and while the ceremony lasted no one spoke louder than a whisper. Some of the finest buildings are col¬ lected aroundthe square called * Waterloo PlaU, which serves also as a parade- 378 ROUTE 66.—HANOVER. Sect. V. ground. N. the picturesque Sehloss, en¬ circled by the Leine; S. the Waterloo Column , 162 ft. high, surmounted by Victory, and inscribed with the names of the Hanoverians, privates as well as officers, who fell in the battle : on either side barracks. E., in the background, the Cadettenhaus. On the IN’, side of the square stands a statue of Gen. Count Alten, commander of the Hanoverian Legion in Spain (d. 1840). Opposite is the great Arsenal, built 1S46. W., on a hillock, stands a circular Temple , en¬ closing Leibnitz’s bust. The new Theatre (1851), of Italian architecture, near the Ely. Stat., is one of the most striking modem buildings in Germany. The * loyal Stables retain the black and cream-coloured horses, of the stock from which are derived those which draw the state carriage of the Queen of England. In the old town, the Bathhaus is a curious specimen of brickwork (1455), ornamented in front with coats of arms and full-length figures in baked clay. The Markt Kirche opposite, built of red brick (1350), is worth notice; carved pul¬ pit, seats, &c., and modern painted glass. In the Egidien Kirche are a carved altar- piece, painted and gilt, with reliefs of the Passion of Christ (? 1500), and a very fine bronze font, date 1450, supported on 5 lions, and adorned with 10 figures of saints. The streets of the old town abound in picturesque domestic archi- turc—gabled houses. Leibnitz’s house, with stone ornaments and scriptural bas-reliefs of terracotta in its front, is in the Schmiedc Gasse, No. 10, a corner house. In the vaultsbcncath the Sclilosskirche , a brick edifice with handsome interior, repaired 1852, arc buried George I., and his mother the Electress Sophia. The Boyal Library contains 120,000 volumes—2000 MSS. Leibnitz’s arm¬ chair, in which he studied and breathed his last, and a great number of his MSS. and some unconnected notes, scribbled on scraps of paper of all sizes, are also preserved here. Among the books are ‘ Cicero’s Offices,’ printed on vellum by Fust, at Mayence. At the end is the date, 1465, with a statement that the hook was executed “ neither with a pen, nor a pen of brass, but by a certain art.” The 1 Biblion Pauperum,’—an illuminated missal, given by Charles V. to Henry VIII. ‘ The Book of Esther,’ written with a pen, and illustrated by costly drawings, deserves notice. A large collection of autograph letters of remarkable persons arc also included in this library. In the Wolf Museum, 3, Adolphs-str., is the collection of Celtic and old Ger¬ man antiquities, formed by the late John Kemble from diggings in the Luneburg Heath. In the Mediaeval room are pre¬ served many instruments of judicial torture. The Picture Gallery of BaurathHaus- mann,4, Holzmarkt, is important; it con¬ tains a genuine Giorgione , and several works of the Westphalian master Ba- plion; it is liberally shown to strangers, on presenting their cards. It has been purchased by the king. The Estates of Hanover assemble in an elegant modern building called Landschaftliches Haus. The handsome opera-house was built by George V. Herschel, the astronomer, was born here ; he was originally musician in the royal band ; Leibnitz and Zimmermann died here ; Zimmermann is buried in the public cemetery, Leibnitz in the Neustadter Kirche. The brothers S chic - gel and lffland were also natives of Hanover. A prettily laid out park, intersected by drives, and by a grand double avenue of limes more than 2 m. long, extends from the town to the Eoyal Palace of Herrenhausen. It is a low tasteless building, and is now deserted and out of order, but contains some royal portraits connected with English history. It was the favourite residence of George I. and II., and was built by the former for his mistress, Countess Platen: his smoking-room is still preserved. The Gardens , resorted to on Sundays, are laid out in a formal style, with straight walks, lined with high clipped hedges (which in one place are made to form a sylvan theatre), and carpeted with turf, contain statues, palm-house, hot-houses, and splendid icts-d’eau. The Electress Sophia, mother of George I., and grand- Prussia. ROUTE 66.—BRUNSWICK. MUSEUM. 379 daughter of James I., dropped down dead while walking in these gardens. In the Eoyal Mausoleum, erected 1846, are monumental effigies of the late Queen of Hanover, Frederica, and of King Ernest Augustus (Duke of Cum¬ berland), by Rauch. . Mont Brilliant, \ m. out of the town, on the rt. going to Herrenhausen, is the summer residence of the present King. Railways: to Bremen, Etc. 72 a ; to Hamburg, Ete. 59 ; to Hildesheim ; to Cassel. Schnellposts to Pyrmont; to Hameln. Lehrte Junction Stat. Here is the junction of the Eailways from Harburg (Ete. 59) and Hildesheim. (Ete. 72.) Peine Stat. 1. see the spire of Sie- vcrshausen , where Maurice of Saxony, rival of Charles V., fell in battle, 1553. Yechelde Stat. Brunswick Station (Germ. Braun¬ schweig).— Inns: *H. d’Angleterre ; * Deutsches Haus; H. de Prusse; Prinz Wilhelm. The capital of the Duchy and residence of the Duke of Bruns¬ wick is a very ancient town on the Ockcr, with 41,635 Inhab.; cleanly in its streets, and displaying much pic¬ turesque architecture in its antique houses, many of wood, with dates on them of 1488-91-92, The latter half of the 14th, and beginning of the next century, was the golden age of Bruns¬ wick, when it became a place of great commercial importance, and a leading member of the Hansc League. It is no longer fortified, but surrounded by plan¬ tations and pretty Walks, which occupy the site of the former ramparts. The Palace or Residenzscliloss, a mag¬ nificent and tasteful building, erected from the designs of Ottmer, was burnt down by accident in 1865, a preceding Palace, called Graue Hof, having been burnt in 1839 by the mob. It is to be rebuilt at the expense of the State. The * Museum , in the Zeughaus (Ar¬ senal), near the Cathedral, well arranged and kept, consists of—1. Gallery of Paintings, containing many works of high merit, particularly two Jan Steens , the best pictures by that artist, pro¬ bably, existing—one represents a Mar¬ riage Contract, the other a Musical Party; Van der Heist, a woman and child; Holbein, Sir Thomas More; Luc. Cranach, St. John in the Wilderness (Mclancthon’s portrait); Rembrandt, two excellent portraits, in his clear manner, of Grotius and his wife, and a good landscape ; Mierevclt, fine portraits of a Count and Countess of Nassau ; Gior¬ gione (?) Adam and Eve, a very good picture, though it is more probably a work of Palma Veccliio ; Steenwyk, the Deliverance of St. Peter, a large picture ; a fine Guido, 391 ; a portrait said to be by Raphael; Teniers, sen., a Chemist; Schwartz, an Old Man; 162, Ruysdael, a Waterfall; G. Don, his own Portrait ; 314 and 327, Alb. Purer, 2 Portraits ; 473, Rembrandt, with his Wife and 3 Children; ditto, 466, an Entombment; 449, Honthorst, Boy with Flute. 160 pictures out of this collection were transported to Paris by the French. The greater part were originally in the gallery at Salzdahlum. 2. A collection of Natural History of second-rate excellence: it includes some very perfect fossil bones of the Cave Bear from the Harz. 3. Classical Antiquities. — Statues, bronzes, &c.,from Greece and Italy. The famous Mantuan Vase of onyx was car¬ ried away by the former Duke Charles. 4. Antiquities, and Works of Art of more recent times. At the head of them must be placed an exquisite carv¬ ing in steatite by AJbert Purer, repre¬ senting *St. John preaching in the Wil¬ derness. It is a masterpiece of its kind. Some of the figures are detached and finished all round, and in one or two instances, where their backs are turned outwards, it will be found that the faces arc made out with the utmost delicacy and beauty, though there is barely room to pass the blade of a knife behind them, a fact which increases our ad¬ miration of the dexterity of the artist. Here are preserved the uniform of Frederick the Great, worn at Mollwitz, in the Seven Years’ War; uniform and. sword which the Duke of Brunswick carried at Quatre Bras; and Luther’s ring. There arc many other valuable 380 ROUTE 66.—BRUNSWICK. CATHEDRAL. Sect. V. objects of art and vertii : rich silver plate ; carvings in ivory, amber, wood ; an ivory casket of Byzantine work, of 11th or 12th century ; another of bone, with Runic inscriptions ; the skull and armbone of St. Blaize, with 14 antique rings on the fingers; also a crucifix by M. Angelo, with bas-reliefs in silver by Ben. Cellini; and a collection of Majo¬ lica , amounting to 1100 pieces, chiefly of late date and coarse execution. This collection suffered by its trip to Paris ; as many of the finest specimens were missing on its return. Limoges enamels, collected by Tavernier to take to Persia —very fine. Kosciusko’s cup carved in prison. Fine MSS. of the Gospels, 1000 or 1100; others with rich gold and ivory covers. The Museum is open to the public daily, except Monday, from 11 to 1 ; at other times, and in winter, admittance can only be obtained by special appli¬ cation to the Director, and by payment of a fee of 2% dols. The *Dom or Cathedral of St. Blaize (patron of Brunswick) is a plain, solid Romanesque structure of great anti¬ quity, 1176-1250, begim by Henry the Lion, one of the most illustrious princes of the House of Guelph (from whom the royal family of England are descended), alter his return from a pil¬ grimage in the Holy Land. It has been repaired and cleared of white¬ wash, by which some German frescoes of the 13 th century have been laid bare in the transepts. The N. aisle is of much more recent date (1469), and is supported by lythe, twisted, or screw pillars, of the utmost elegance, and very unusual. The altar in front of the rood- loft is a slab of Purbeek marble, sup¬ ported by 5 bronze pillars; it was pre¬ sented by the Duchess Matilda. The seven-branched brass candlestick (a copy of that in the temple of Jerusa¬ lem), on a pedestal ornamented with gro¬ tesque monsters, was made for Henry the Lion, and in the Byzantine style of art. Henry himself, and his wife Matilda, an English princess (daughter of Henry II. and sister of Richard Coeur do Lion), are buried in this church. Their effigies recline upon a sarcophagus in the central aisle. The Vaults beneath the church are the burial-place of the Ducal family. No fewer than 9 of the princes here in¬ terred perished on the field of battle. The most remarkable among this range of coffins, in the eyes of Englishmen, are those containing the bodies of the Duke, who was mortally wounded at the fatal battle of Jena, and of his son, who fell at Quatre Bras, having nobly avenged his father’s death, at the head of his devoted black band. u Two small (black) flags, the one an offering from the matrons, the other from the maidens of Brunswick, are suspended above his coffin, still sprinkled with the brown and withering leaves of the garlands which the love of his people scattered on his bier, when at midnight he was laid among so many of his race who had fought and fallen like himself.”— Has¬ sell. Beside the coffins of these two heroes is placed that of Caroline of Brunswick , consort of Geo. IV. The silver plate, sent from England, bore the words, dictated by herself, 11 Mur¬ dered Queen of England,” but it was removed and replaced by another, in¬ scribed simply with the name, dates, and titles, in the usual form; the marks of the nails which fastened the original plate are still visible. Some of the relics brought by Henry the Lion from Palestine, which cost him vast sums, are preserved in an ante¬ chamber leading into the Royal vault; one of them, which the monks had palmed upon his credulity as a “ Grif¬ fin’s claw,” and which long passed for such, turns out to be the curved horn of a particular species of antelope! Here are also shown the ivory horn and pipe of St. Blaize ; a statue of Henry the Lion made pro¬ bably in his lifetime; a singular pillar of wood, bearing the emblems of the Passion of Christ , as the spear, nails, crown of thorns; St. Veronica’s hand¬ kerchief; St. Peter’s sword; the high priest’s servant’s car; the cock which crew, &c. &c. The bone of a whale or mammoth, in this vault, long passed for one of Goliath’s ribs ! In the centre of the square near the Cathedral stands an ancient bronze Lion , of stiff Byzantine workmanship, set up on this spot 1166 by Henry the Lion. 081 Prussia. route 66.—Brunswick—wolfenbuttel. In tlie *Alt Stadtmarkt is a ricli Gothic fountain of bronze, ornamented with figures, devices, and coats of arms: date 140S. The Mansion House ( Alt- stadt Rathhaus) , a beautiful specimen of German architecture (about 1393), hav¬ ing statues of Guelphic princes in front. | The Rathskeller opposite, also a remark¬ able Gothic building, is deserted and de¬ cayed : its dungeons are turned into wine- cellars. The Churches are all interesting. *8t. Martin's, opposite the Rathhaus, is of the 13th cent., except St. Anne’s chapel, at the S.W. angle, a gem of late Gothic (1441), not unlike the Lady Chapel at Ely. Its brass font has been styled the finest in Europe, supported on 4 figures, its sides panelled with 7 bas- reliefs. Observe also the pulpit and 4 altars with sculptures. * Barfilsser, or B ruder-Kir che, perhaps most j worth notice after the cathedral, on account of its Font of bronze (1450). Its basin is carried by statues of the 4 rivers of Paradise ; around it 16 compartments in relief—the Crucifixion, Virgin, Apostles, Saints, &c.; and its altarpiece, a triptych of carved wood painted—in the centre the Crucifixion, and in the shutters 2 canopied rows of saints. Petri Kirche contains a bronze font and a brass of an ecclesiastic. St. An¬ drew's Ch. (1200-1340, finished in the middle of the 16th cent.) is ornamented externally on the S. side with figures of cripples (d. 1400). St. Catherine's Ch. (latter half of 13tli cent., choir finished 1450) resembles St. Andrew’s, and is an ornament to the town, Here are some fine monuments of the 16-18th cent., and painted glass, 1553. The old houses, Nos. 772, 773, in the Breiten St., and No. 456, Stein St., have curious carvings of the 15th cent. Close to the August Thor, on the finest site that the levelled ramparts afford, a cast-iron obelisk , 60 ft. high, has been set up by the citizens to the memory of their two dukes, who fell at Jena and Quatre Bras. About a mile outside the Stein Thor a monument and chapel have been erected to the memory of the brave but luckless Schill (Ilte. 76) and his companions in arms, 14 of whom were shot here by the French. Schill’s head, formerly pre¬ served in spirits at Leiden, is now buried under the monument along with his body, and his bust, a gift of the King of Bavaria, is deposited in the chapel, along with many other relics of the War of Independence. Schill headed a patriotic rising against the French in 1808, which, though pre¬ mature, and quickly suppressed, led the way to the well-concerted opposition to Napoleon, which, in 1814, freed Ger¬ many from his thraldom. The famous corps of Black Bruns- wickers, remarkable for their bravery and devotion to their princes, as well as for their sable uniform, black horsehair plume, and ominous death’s head and cross-bones, are the Duke’s body-guard. A celebrated Fair is held at Brunswick. Spohr the composor was born 1784, at No. 7, Monchs Street, corner of. GEgidicn-Kirkhof. In the Lessings Platz is a fine statue of Lessing by Rietschel. In the small Magni ICirchhof is his grave (d. 1781), marked by a simple stone. A handsome Theatre was erected 1861, near the Stein-Thor. The Railroad from Brunswick to Mag¬ deburg runs near the Ducal chateaux of Richmond and Williamscastle, to 1J Wolfenbiittel Junction Stat. (Bin, Golden Lowe), a town of 9000 Inhab., on the Ocker, remarkable for its Library of 220,000 vols., containing some of the finest missals in Europe and a vast number of Bibles, among them Luther’s Bible, with notes in his own hand. His marriage ring, doctor’s ring, spoon, drinking glass, and his portrait by Cranach , arc also preserved hero. A missal, with miniatures by Albert Barer, carried off from Munich by Gust. Adol¬ phus. MSS., Ma3so-Gothic, Icelandic, Latin of 12th and 13th cents., Cufic, Greek; Sachsenspiegcl (Saxon laws) full of figures. Lessing lived a long time here, as librarian to the Duke. [A branch railroad is carried from Wolfenbiittel to Harzburg, 6 Germ. m. = 28j Eng. m., in the vicinity of Goslar. By means of it the excursion to the Harz (Rte. 73) may be con¬ veniently made from Brunswick. At Harzburg Stat. is a good restaurant 382 ROUTE 66.—MAGDEBURG. CATHEDRAL. Sect. V. and hotel; Braunschweiger Hof. Car¬ riages, guides, and asses may be hired here. Harzburg consists of a few scattered houses at the foot of the mountains.] 25 Schoppenstadt Stat. If Jerxheim Junct. Stat. Branch Ely. to Helmstadt (Inn: Deutsches Haus). 2 Wegersleben Stat. The wooded hills of the Harz (the Brocken) appear against the S. horizon. If Gross-Oscherslebcn Junct. Stat. (A branch railway hence to Halber- stadt, 2 f Germ. m. Etc. 74.) 1 Hadmersleben Stat. 2 Langenweddingen Stat. Within a circle of a few miles from Magdeburg lies some of the most fertile corn-land in Germany. It is, however, an open and unpicturesque plain, scarcely a hedge or tree visible. Much chicory. is cultivated in this district; as well as beetroot for sugar, and pota¬ toes for brandy; and the forest of chim¬ neys belonging to these works give Magdeburg the aspect of a manufactur¬ ing town rather than a fortress. Most of the churches of Magdeburg have twin towers nearly alike, so that seven pair of steeples may be perceived on ap¬ proaching it, rising above the level lines of green ramparts. 2 Magdeburg Stat. —Inns : Edel’s Hotel; * Erzherzog Stephan, close to the Stat., bad smells. The capital of the Prussian province of Saxony is built on the Elbe, and has 86,000 Inhab., including the garrison (7600) and 3000 E. Catholics. It is a fortress of the first class, and from the augmentation and improvement in its defences since the war is considered one of the strongest in Europe. Owing to its vast extent, it could not be in¬ vested by an army of less than from 50,000 to 100,000 men. The Citadel , on an island of the Elbe, one of the oldest parts of the fortifications, serves also as a state prison; Lafayette and Carnot were confined in it. The famous Baron Trenck was long imprisoned in the Stern Schanze (Star Bastion) out¬ side the Sudenberger Thor: it is con¬ sidered one of the strongest points. The latest erected defences are Fort Scharnhorst and the Thurm Schanze. In spite of, or rather in consequence of, the strength of its bulwarks, M agdeburg has endured the miseries of war at dif¬ ferent times, and to a terrible extent, especially during the Thirty Years’ War. It resisted the army of Wallenstein for 7 months (1629), but was taken at the end of 2 years (1631) by the ferocious Tilly, who carried it by assault, sacked it, and massacred 30,000 of its inha¬ bitants witho\it distinction of age or sex, with accompaniments of brutality and atrocity which alone will serve to affix for ever the above epithet to his name. The church of St. John, in which many hundred women had taken refuge, was nailed up and burnt, and the troop¬ ers, fastening to their saddle-girths the wives and daughters of murdered citi¬ zens, dragged them off to the camp. In the despatch in which Tilly an¬ nounced the capture, ho says, “ Since the destruction of Jerusalem and Troy, such a victory has not been.” The gate by which he entered the town still con¬ tinues walled up, and upon the House of the commandant, whom he beheaded, may bo still read the words, “Eemcm- berthe 10 th of May, 1631.” After this calamity only 139 houses were left standing. In 1806 the Fortress, though garrisoned by' 20,000 men, was sur¬ rendered to the French by General Ixleist after 14 days’ siege. The last siege was the long and obstinate one which it endured in 1813-14. Magdeburg, from its position on the Elbe, is the entrepot of the merchandize which enters Germany by that river, and is a place of considerable manufac¬ turing industry, as well as of active commerce. A canal, commencing 20 m. below the town, unites the Elbe with the Havel. The chief street is the Breite- weg, running N. and S. through the town ; and the only fine building is The * Cathedral , surmounted by 2 pair of towers, one of the noblest Gothic edi¬ fices of N. Germany, date 1211 to 1363. It was shamefully injured, and turned into a warehouse and stable, by the French, but has been repaired, atthe cost of 300,000 dollars, by the Prussian go¬ vernment. All the lower part of the Prussia. 383 ROUTE 66 .- building dates from about 1 200. It suc¬ ceeded an. older Dom, erected by the Empr. Otho I., of which a curious model is preserved in a side chapel. 3 imposing colossal statues behind the choir, various marble and granite columns, and perhaps the small figures now in the walls of the choir, belonged to the old Dom. This ch. is 364 ft. long. The roof of the nave is 110 ft. high. The tomb of the Empr. Otho I. and his queen Editha (daughter of Edmund King of the Anglo- Saxons) is of the 14th cent. Observe the elegant horseshoe arches of the E. end; the apse with beautiful marble shafts; the stone roodloft (begun 1443), rich in carved foliage and other ornaments of good design; and the carvings of the stalls. The pulpit of alabaster, now sadly mutilated, is the work of one Sebastian Extel, 1594; there is a monu¬ ment by the same hand in the church. The variety and beauty of the Ro¬ manesque capitals and tympana are remarkable. The dog-tooth ornament occurs in the triforium, and on the exterior at the W. end. The cloisters deserve a visit. In a chapel at the W. end, singu¬ larly placed between the two towers, where the principal entrance ought to be, is the monument of Archbp. Ernest (1495), executed in bronze by the celebrated artist of Nuremberg, Peter Vischer. The figures of the 12 Apostles around it are worthy of mi¬ nute examination as works of art of great excellence. A branched bronze candelabrum and 2 chandeliers, as well as the iron screen, are of ancient work. Among other remarkable monuments is that of one Bake, a canon of the cathedral, who saved the building from destruction by interceding on its be¬ half with Tilly, whose schoolfellow he had been; also that of the Frau von Asseburg, who returned home the night after her burial, and lived with her husband for 9 years after her first in¬ terment ; a story which the sexton will not fail to tell. Tilly’s helmet and gloves are shown here. Against the walls are placed tablets bearing the names of the men of Mag¬ deburg who fell in the War of Libera¬ tion, with this simple heading:—“ Aus -MAGDEBURG. dieser Stadt starben fur Konig und Vaterland.” In order to see the fine view of the town from the top of the towers 350 ft. high, permission must be obtained from the commandant, and is not always granted; but you can ascend as far as the roof with the Dom-Custos. In St. Sebastian’s Church is the grave of Otto Guerike, the inventor of the air-pump. In the Alte Marht , opposite the Rathhaus, stands an equestrian statue , in sandstone, of the Empr. Otho , with his two queens, one on either side. It is the oldest monument in Magdeburg, erect¬ ed by the grateful citizens after his death (973). The * Public Gardens , called Frie¬ drich Wilhelms Garten, outside the Sudenberger gate, and by the side of the Elbe, are really tastefully laid out, command fine views, and are a great resource to the townspeople. The Fiirs- tenwall (. Prince’s Pampart), a sort of terrace and parade-ground running along the margin of the Elbe, was named from Prince Leopold of Dessau. Beneath it are casemates, whose chimneys pro¬ ject through the ground among the trees. They are now partly occupied as railway offices attached to the Ber¬ lin Terminus. Luther went to school at Magdeburg, and has recorded in his writings that while a poor scholar here he often sang in the streets and at rich men’s doors (as is still the custom with poor cho¬ risters) to earn a scanty pittance, which helped to support him. The French republican General Car¬ not is buried in the churchyard outside the Krokenthor ; ho received an asylum here from the Prussians after being ban¬ ished from France, in consequence of the restoration of the Bourbons, and d. 1823. There is a Theatre here. For the Railway from Magdeburg to Berlin, see Rte. 62. 384 ROUTE 67. —DUSSELDORF TO BERLIN. ELBERFELD. Sect. V. PtOUTE G7. DUSSELDORF TO BERLIN, BY ELBERFELD, CASSEL, EISLEBEN, AND HALLE. 83T Pruss. m.= 389g- Eng. m. Railway from Diisseldorf (stat. at end of Konigs Allee) to Dortmund, where it enters the Minden rail¬ way (Ptc. 66). Trains in 1 hr. to El- herfeld, in 2 more to Dortmund. This railway connects the flourishing manu¬ facturing districts of the Wuppertlial, and county of Mark, with the Cologne- Berlin line. It is interesting alike from the industry and picturesque beauty of the country it traverses, as well as for the engineering skill dis¬ played in its construction. Gerresheim Stat. This old town once contained a Nunnery for noble ladies. The fair Agnes of Mansfeldt eloped from it with Gebhart Truchsess, Archbishop of Cologne, in 1582. The Church is a fine Gothic edifice of the 12th cent. Erkerath Stat. Beyond this is an inclined plane, which the carriages as¬ cend by the weight of a descending train coming in the opposite direction. Hochdahl Stat. is 1 m. distant from a cavern called the Neanders Holile, where human remains are said to have been found. Voliwinkel Junct. Stat. A branch rly., called Prince William's Railway , runs N. from Voliwinkel to Steele. [A few miles S. of this lies the town of Solin- gen {Inns: Baerischcr Hof; Stadt Iio- nigsberg), 10,684 Inhab., famous for its extensive manufacture of sword- blades, foils, scissors, and other articles of cutlery and ironware.] Near the village of Sonnborn the train crosses the vale of the Wupper on a bridge of 6 arches, and along the shoulder of a hill reaches Elberfeld Stat. Omnibus (5 Sgr.) into the town. 3i Elberfeld. — Inns: Kurpfalzer Iiof (Cour Elcctoralc) ;—Widen Hof; —Post. This is one of the most im¬ portant towns in the Prussian domi¬ nions, from its extensive manufac¬ tories. It has a population of 56,277, and is joined to another town, Barmen, with 45,000 Inhab., forming an uninterrupted street 6 miles long. Its situation in the pretty valley of the Wupper is picturesque, healthy, and advantageous to its commerce, but the town itself is dirty and not prepossess¬ ing. It owes its rise to a settlement of industrious refugee Protestants, driven from the Netherlands 1527, who here found protection. It has rapidly risen to its actualheight of prosperity within the present century. Its principal manufactures consist of cottons, silk ribbons, and the dye called Turkey red, which is produced here of so excellent a colour, and so very cheap, that cotton yarn is actually exported to a consider¬ able extent from Glasgow and else¬ where, and is afterwards reimported from Elberfeld, dyed. In 1829 the annual produce of the manufactures here was valued at more than 3 millions sterling. Few districts in Europe exceed in manufacturing enterprise, wealth, and population, that part of the Bhenish provinces of Prussia which anciently composed the Duchy of Berg. It may be nearly included within a tri¬ angle drawn from Cologne, along the Rhine to the mouth of the Ruhr, and from these two points to Ilagcn. The valleys of the Wupper, and of the streams pouring into it, arc scenes of the most active and intelligent industry, and their manufactures of cotton, iron, cutlery, and brass rival those of Eng¬ land, while they surpass them in cheap¬ ness. The prosperity of the country is visible at every step : coal, the source of all manufacturing prosperity, is found Prussia. 385 ROUTE 67. —DOKT in abundance; water-power is fur¬ nished by the numerous streams; steam-engines have been erected every¬ where, and the hills are covered with habitations even up to their summits. The Rathhaus is ornamented with frescoes by modern Diisseldorf artists. The object best worth visiting here is the Belvedere (Elisenhohe auf der Haardt), a round tower on the top of the hill of Hardt, surrounded by plea¬ sure-grounds, a charming point of view, overlooking the Wupperthal, ac¬ cessible in less than J an hour from the Hotel. Schnellposts daily to Iserlohn. Elberfeld is united to Barmen by a bridge, so that they seem to form but one town, both animated by the same spirit of industry. Barmen is a long straggling street, with manufactories and human dwellings on either side. At every step the country displays the most agreeable signs of industrious prosperity,— indeed this portion of the Duchy of Berg may be looked on as one vast workshop. It is the most po¬ pulous district of Prussia. The railway crosses the frontier of Berg and Mark, the ancient line of demarcation between the Franks and Saxons, before reaching l! s Schwclm {Inns: Rosenkrazz ; Pr. v. Preussen), an active little town of 3400 Inhab. After passing through a considerable cutting in the mountain the railway gains an elevated point (Milspe) from which you look down upon the broad vale of Ennepe, swarm¬ ing with life and industry. Tillages occur at every few miles of road, chiefly busied in various manufactures of iron. Machetes, here called Sack- hauer, for cutting the sugar-cane in the West Indies, &c., are made here. 2~ Hagen {Inns: Deutsches Ilaus; H. Liinenschloss), a manufacturing town of 3500 Inhab., with iron, and Turkey red dye-works. The Ruhr- Sieg Illy, runs hence by Siegen to Cologne. (Rte 47). Near Witten (Glitz’s Inn ) the railway quits the valley of the Ruhr. Dortmund Junction Stat., in Rte. 66. Here this railway enters the Cologne, Minden, and Berlin line. The post-road [n. g.] MUND. ISERLOHN. between Hagen and Unna runs near to the coal-mines, the chief source of pros¬ perity to the surrounding district. The road makes a considerable bend to cross the Lenne, approaching the small town of Limburg {Inn, Bentheimer Hof, beautifully situated), and the chateau of the Prince of Bentheim-Tecklenburg- Rheda, which is in a very picturesque situation. At the point where the Lenne joins the Ruhr, N.W. in the distance are seen the ruins of Hohen- Syburg, the old castle of Wittckind, last Duke of the Saxons, who was here con¬ quered by Charlemagne and compul¬ sorily baptized. A round tower on the top of the hill was erected as a monu¬ ment to Baron L. v. Vincke, President of Westphalia. After passing near the Griirmannshohle, at Grime, a colossal cross of iron is discernible, a memorial of the War of Liberation. The valley of the Lenne as far as Aliena, 6 m. from Grime, and the Plettcnberg, is very picturesque. 2T Iserlohn {Inn, Q.uinkc’s Hotel), one of the most considerable manufac- turingtowns in Westphalia, with 13,467 Inhab. : it may be regarded as the Birmingham of Prussia, where steam- engines, cutlery, and all sorts of brass ware, buttons, needles, pins, wire, &c., are made. The country round abounds in workshops, forges, paper-mills, &c., is rich in picturesque rocks, ruined castles of antiquity, and romantic valleys and glens. At Hcmar, 3 m. on the high road, the traveller, by turning rt. to the village Sundwich, may see the Sundwich Hohle, a cave containing fossil bones, and the Sea of Rocks {Felsenmcer). We are now in the ancient duchy of Westphalia, the country of the red earth, over which, in former times, the jurisdiction of the mysterious Vehm Gericht, miscalled the Secret Tribunal, extended. The na¬ tional food of Westphalia is brown rye bread, commonly called pumpernickel, described by Voltaire as “ certaine pierre dure, noire, et gluante, composee, a ce qu’on pretend, Time espece de seigleit is found on the tables of rich and poor, and horses are fed on a coarse sort of it, as well as men. 2T Wimbern.— Inn , Schliinder’s.— s 386 ROUTE 67. —ARNSBERG. WITZENHAUSEN. Sect. V. Hence to Werl, on the high road to Munster and Paderborn, is only 1 Germ, m. The road approaches the Ruhr, and continues along its banks for many miles, crossing it at Nchcim. 2f Amsberg. — Inns , Linhof’s ; Wei- pert’s.—A town of 4000 Inhab., prettily situated on an eminence half encircled by the Ruhr. On one of the gates are groups of stags and boars not ill exe¬ cuted. There is an extensive view from the ruins of the Old Castle , in the Court of which (Baumhof), or in a field on the 1. of the road to Iscr- lohn, the judges of that which has been called the Secret Tribunal used to assemble for deliberation. The holy Yehm numbered in Westphalia (which anciently comprehended the country between the Rhine, Wcser, and Ems) 100,000 Wisscnden or initiated. This ancient court of justice, now errone¬ ously regarded as a sort of German in¬ quisition, was in truth only a separate jurisdiction ; its meetings were held in public places, and in open day; and its proceedings were neither secret nor tyrannical. The words Secret Tribunal are in fact a mistranslation of the words “ Separatum judicium.” At the foot of the hill lies the suppressed Benedictine Abbey Weddinghausen. Schncllpost to Munster. Pretty country to 2f Meschede, a pretty town on the Ruhr. Schaffer’s Inn. Laer is the domain and seat of Graf von West- phalcn. 3 Brilon (Inn, Khoper’s) is one of the oldest towns in Germany, and has 3000 Inhab. The Great Parish Ch. was built, it is said, by Charlemagne, in 776 (?). This stage lies over a lonely heath (Thurlerheide), with scarcely a house in sight. 2 Bredclar on the Diemel. The post- house was once a monastery, now turned into an iron-work. The tower and castle Marsberg , on a conical hill, was destroyed by the Swedes in the Thirty Years’ war. The old road goes by Arolscn (2 : |), residence of the Prince of Waldcck. Pop. 2000 (Inn: Romcr). In the Palace arc a collection of antiquities from Pom¬ peii, and a replica of West’s Death of General Wolf. Rauch the sculptor, and Kaulbach the painter, were bom at Arolsen. The Stadt Kirche contains 3 statutes by Rauch. Volkmarsen, 11;—Westuffeln, 2 : but the new road, made as far as possible within the Prussian territory, skirts Waldcck, and passes through 3| Ossendorf. Beyond, however, it is necessarily carried across a portion of the Electorate of Hesse, which, in conjunction with Waldcck, separate the Westphalian and Rhenish provinces of Prussia from the rest of her em¬ pire. 2^ Westuffeln. The Elector of Hesse has a country-seat at Wilhelmsthal. 2^ Cassel. —In Rte. 70. By the Thuringian railway to Halle, 26 Germ, m. in 8 hrs. 2 Helsa. Near Almcrode, the Mount Meissner , 2500 ft. above the sea-level, chiefly of columnar basalt, is seen to the S., and it maybe conveniently ascended from that place. Scenery, pretty and varied, to 2f Witzenhausen (Inns : Kbnig v. Prcussen; Goldno Krone), prettily placed on the Werra, 2500 Inhab. ; the last station in Ilesse Cassel. There is an elegant Gothic chapel , with elaborate open-work turret, near the bridge : it deserves being drawn. “ There is a charming drive along the rt. bank of the Werra, both up to Allcndorf, and down to Munden in Hanover; through woods the greater part of the way. The forests in Helse arc among the finest in Germany, owing to the large trees they contain, which are no longer found in those nearer the Rhine.”— F. 8. 3 Heiligenstadt (Inns : Preussischer Hof; Deutsches Haus) has 4000 Inhab. ; it was formerly the capital of the principality of Eichsfelcl, hut now belongs to Prussia. The Ch. of the Apostles has 2 octagonal towers, and in the churchyard is an octagonal chapel, intended apparently for a Baptistery. 3 Wiilfingerode. A hilly stage to 3 Nordhausen (Inns : Romischer Kaiser; Berliner Hof; Englischer Hof; Deutsches Haus, outside the town, good), a flourishing town of 17,500 Inhab., at the S. extremity of the Harz mountains, in a country very fertile in Prussia. ROUTE 67. —NORDHAUSEN. EISLEBEN. 387 corn. It has the most extensive dis¬ tilleries in Germany. In the Ch. of St. Blazius are two paintings by Luke Cranach; an Eccc Homo, and the bu¬ rial of the young man of Nain, painted to adorn the tomb of a friend of the painter, who has introduced among the mourners portraits of Luther and Me- lancthon. Near the Bathhaus is a Eo- landsdule under a roof. (See Bremen.) Wolf the philosopher was horn here. The walks and gardens on the upper side of the town are beautiful. There are many interesting points in the neighbourhood, such as the castles of Hohenstcin and Ebersburg. The road from hence to Magdeburg and the Harz is described in Ete. 74. Near Nordhausen begins the fertile valley called Goldene Aue, watered by the winding Helme. It extends to Eossleben and Sangerhausen, near which it falls into the Unstrut. 11 m. S. of Nordhausen lies Sondershausen {Inn, Erbprinz), capital of the small principality of Schwarz burg-S. In the palace is a small collection of an¬ tiquities, among them a bronze image, said to be an idol of the Sorbic-Wends called Piisterich, very old. At 2 - | Eossla on the Helme, 1200 Inhab., Count Stolberg has a chateau. On the rt. of the road rises the hill called Kyff- hduser (1353 ft. high) : on it may he seen ruins of a tower, said to he the remains of an imperial castle, built by the Empr. Barbarossa, whose spirit is fabled still to haunt its chambers, and some among the peasants and miners affirm they have seen him with his head resting on his arm, and his red heard growing through the stone table at which he sits ! 2^ Sangerhausen.— Inn, Lowe. In the Ch. of St. Ulrich (date 1079) is the tomb of Louis the Leaper, who vowed to build a church to St. Ulrich, provided he succeeded in jumping safely out of the window of his prison near Halle : from this circumstance he ob¬ tained a nickname, and the saint a church. Near the town are mines of brown coal and copper. 2f Eislebcn (Inn , Goldcncs SchifF). A town of 10,000 Inhab. on the Bose, a small stream. It is only remarkable as the native place of Luther. The house in which he was born, Nov. 10 or 22,1483, is not far from the gate leading to Hallo, a few doors from the Post-office; his portrait is placed over the entrance. The original building was partly con¬ sumed by fire in 1689, but there is still enough of it left to give interest to it. The font in which he was baptized remains in the Petri-Paul-kirche. In St. Andrew’s ch. is the pulpit from which he preached, and other relics of the great reformer, and some tombs of the Counts of Mansfeld ; a fine brass monu¬ ment, and 4 brass chandeliers, produce of the mines. The Path bans was ori¬ ginally roofed with copper. A pulpit cloth, worked by a Countess of Mans¬ feld, is a remarkable piece of em¬ broidery. Luther was the son of a poor miner here, and the greater part of the inhab. still follow the same occu¬ pation, working in the neighbouring copper-mines. The ground around Eisleben is turned up in stony hillocks and mounds, the miners’ refuse, so as to look like a great graveyard. [8 m. from Eisleben is the small town of Mansfeld {Inn : Stadt Keller), where Luther spent his childhood, from the end of the 1st to the 15th year at the parish school. On a neighbouring hill is the chief castle of the Counts of Mansfeld. It is well preserved, and retains its old tilt-yard , chapel, &c.J The road traverses an open country bare of wood, passing 2 small lakes ; the one on the rt. is salt, the other fresh. 2~ Langcnbogen. There are brown coal-mines near this. 2 Halle. See Pte. 63„ lailway hence to Berlin. S 2 388 ROUTE 68.—COLOGNE TO CASSEL, Beet. V. ROUTE 68. COLOGNE TO CASSEL AND BRUNSWICK, BY SOEST AND PADERBORN—RAILWAY. liailway trains in 6^ hrs. to Cassel. See Rte. 66 for the railway from Cologne to Hamm Stat. The Westphalian Eisen- hahn diverges from this point to 2 Werl. (Inn very had.) Here are salt-works, and a miraculous image of the Virgin, to which many thousand pilgrims repair annually. 2j Soest Stat. ( Lins: Bei Overweg, comfortable and clean). A singular antiquated walled town, a sort of northern Nuremberg, with 10,500 Inhah.; reckoned the cheapest place in Germany. It contains 10 or 12 very curious churches, some in utter decay. The *Dom (St. Patroclus), an unal¬ tered Romanesque edifice, of which the choir, transepts, and nave date from the 11th cent.: the porch and W. end of nave belong to the end of the 12th. The W. front is very imposing. A massive tower (a.d. 1200), 244 ft. high, rises above the porch, or open arcade, running along the ground-floor. One story of it was the town armoury, and still contains heaps of cross-bows and bolts. The interior of the church shows remains of early fresco. The * Wiesen-Kirche (1330-43) is a bold and elegant specimen of pure Point¬ ed Gothic, with 2 unfinished W. towers (1429) and 3 rich portals (restored 1850). The choir 76 ft. high, with very tall windows nearly full of painted glass (14th cent.), and supported by slender reeded piers, is extremely striking. The nave, later in date, has fine glass of 15th century. Obs. a noble Gothic Tabernacle (15th cent.), and 2 smaller; a stone altar, with carved stone candelabra; 2 richly carved altarpieces (triptychs) of wood, the Joys and Sorrows of the Virgin (1437). St. Peter’s Ch ., near the Dom, is Romanesque in nave; choir Pointed, ending (like the Wiesen-Kirche) in an apse of 7 sides of a decagon; peculiar i construction, and very elegant (date end of 13th cent.). Obs. an altarpiece of the Crucifixion carved in wood, very fine ; the wings painted. The Petri- kirche, Thomas Kirclxe (both with apses good, in style of 13th century), and Sta. Maria zur Hohe, are all of the transition period and good in style : the last the least altered. St. Paul’s and Grauehloster are of the 14th century. Nicholai Kirche is a small Romanesque building, divided through the centre by piers and arches, the walls covered with coeval paintings. They all deserve much atten¬ tion from the architect and the antiquary. See the Osthoven Thor , a fine example of old fortification. During the middle ages Soest was a most flourishing and populous town, lying on the great commercial high road from Bruges and Antwerp, across Germany, by Cologne to Brunswick and the Baltic. In the 15th cent, it withstood a memorable siege from Dietrich Archbishop of Cologne, an ambitious prelate, who sought to sub¬ ject Westphalia to his rule. In spite, however, of the long train of princes and nobles whom ho gained over to his cause, and in spite of his army of 60,000 men, including a horde of 20,000 Bohemian mercenaries, the Bishop was compelled to raise the siege and retire from the walls, so bravely were they defended by the citizens, who served the artillery, and by their wives, who wielded pots of boiling pitch. Sir Peter Lely was a native of Soest. About a mile off, on the 1. of the road, are the salt-works and baths of Sas- sendorf. Lippstadt Stat., on the Lippe (Kop- pelmans Inn). St. Mary's is a fine Ch. with a massive W. tower, and 2 towers attached to the transepts; the body Prussia. ROUTE 68.—PADERBORN. 389 Romanesque, 1189 ; the choir, of late Pointed Gothic (1478-1500), is the host part. Of the same age and equal beauty is a pyramidal tabernacle of Gothic work, with bas-reliefs in stone. There are 3 other churches. If Gesecke Stat.— Inn , Post. 1 Salzkotten Stat. (Preussens Inn), a town of 1500 Inhab., with considerable salt-works. If Paderborn Stat. [Inns: Preus- sischer Ilof; Romischer Hof, dirty ; Sell wan ; none good). A very ancient and gloomy town of 11,000 Inhab., for¬ merly capital of an ecclesiastical prin¬ cipality, and seat of a University, the oldest bishop’s see in Westphalia, founded by Charlemagne, full of cu¬ rious old houses. The Cathedral is a large and curious, rather than handsome, edifice. At the W. end rises a tall plain and massive tower, destitute of portal or door, but pierced with a wheel window, surmounted by G rows of small windows. The date early in the 11th cent. The crypt also belongs to this period; the style of both is Romanesque. The body of thech., erected 1143, but having Gothic windows of late insertion, is 345 ft. long and 66 ft. high. Ohs. the 2 richly sculptured portals on the N. and S. side (Paradies). Within are 3 engraved brasses of Bishops Bernard V., 1341; II. v. Spiegel, 1380 ; and Rupert v. Berg, 1391. In the N. transept is the old high-altar , en¬ riched with good sculpture of 14th cent. There are numerous episcopal monu¬ ments of later date. The silver shrine of St. Liborius, at the high altar, was made 1627, the original one having been stolen by Duke Christian of Brunswick, and coined into dollars. Not far from the Dom, to the N., stands St. Bartholomew’s chapel, a much older building of Bp. Meinwerk, erected by Greek workmen, 11th cent. (1020). Below the Dom rises the stream of the Pader, out of 5 sources, in suffi¬ cient copiousness to be able to turn a mill at the distance of a few yards. The ground on which the town stands teems with springs of water, bursting forth in the very streets; it is said there are not less than 300 in and about it, some of them warm. The Ilathhaus is a very picturesque building, a mixture of styles, 1615. The University is now replaced by a Catholic Seminary. There is a fine walk round the town. N. and E. of Paderborn stretches the Teutoburger Wald ,—the Saltus Tcuto- bergicus of the Romans,—covered with oaks and beech. This high land is supposed to be the scene of the defeat of the legions of Varus by the German chief Arminius (Her-mann, the leader of the army). Allowing the Romans to advance across the plains of West¬ phalia, he awaited them in the first difficult country, on the skirts of the Great Hercynian Forest, a strong po¬ sition, covering the district up to the Weser, where, Roman discipline being of no avail, the invaders suffered one of the most serious defeats recorded in their annals, which arrested for ever their progress in this direction. The battle-field is supposed to lie between Driburg and Bielefeld (Rte. 66). Many of the present names of hills, forests, streams, and villagesin this district cor¬ respond with those mentioned by Ta¬ citus, near the scene of the battle. On quitting Paderborn, the rly. crosses the viaduct of the Dune, 13 arches, 85 ft. high, and that over the Becke, of 24 arches, 110 ft. high. Buke Stat. [About 3 miles from this, and 12 miles from Paderborn, is Driburg ( Inns : Kothe, in the town; better at the Wells), a town of 2000 Inhab. A little to the E. of it, on the road to Hoxtcr, beneath the old castle of Yburg, lie the Baths , supplied by a chalybeate spring, one of the strongest known. It consists of 4 large lodging- houses, with Baths, and a Kur-saal accommodating 200 visitors, chiefly ladies. The sulphur mud-baths are efficacious in complaints of the joints.] The railway penetrates into the pic¬ turesque highlands of Westphalia, fol¬ lowing first the valley of the Alme, next the winding course of the Sauer, by Etteln, Atteln, and Ebbinghausen. The line is carried along a steep slope overlooking the valley, constantly rising until it pierces through the Egge-gebirge chain in a cutting 80 ft . 390 Sect. V. ROUTE 69.—DUSSELDORF TO MUNSTER. deep, 600 ft. above Padcrborn. This is the summit-level. Warburg Stat. (Bracht’s Inn). Here is the frontier of Prussia. An old and decayed town, in a picturesque site on the. Diemel. The 3 churches deserve notice, and the castle has a double chapel, 13th cent. 1. a conical hill is surmounted by the ruins of Castle Desenberg, the property of the Spiegel family. The river Diemel is crossed, and at Hiimme Junction Stat., on the frontier of Electoral Hesse, our railway reaches the line from Cassel to Karlshafen (Rte. 71). 3 Hofgeismar Stat., a town of 3200 Inhab., having warm chalybeate springs, not much frequented. The Bath-houses lie in a valley about mile off. There are pleasant walks in the neighbour¬ hood, and at a short distance a chateau of the Elector’s, called Schonberg. Handsome barracks have been built here. It was at Geismar that St. Boni¬ face bold]y hewed down the oak sacred to the Thunderer, in the sight of thou¬ sands of shuddering Pagans, who on its fall hastened to become Christians. Grcbenstein Stat. A town with old watch-towers and ruined castle. Monchshof Stat. Cassel Station. Rte. 70. r I he Rly. from Cassel to Brunswick follows the Hanover line (Rte. 72) as far as KreicnsenJv.net. Stat. ; then turns l.by Gandersheim Stat. 1-jy Seesen Stat.—Stcigerthal’s Inn is the best. The town has 2000 Inhab. 1 Rutter Stat., where Tilly gained a victory over the Protestants under Chris¬ tian IV. of Denmark, so decisive that ho received for it the thanks of the Holy See. Rutter, Salzgitter Stat., and Rcinum lie 'within the Hanoverian territory. Borsum Junct. Stat. Here the Harzbahn falls in. Wolfenbuttel Junct. Stat. Brunswick. See Rte. 66. ROUTE 69. DUSSELDORF TO MUNSTER AND TO OSNABRuCIv (RAILWAY). For the Railway as far as Hamm Stat. (20 Germ, m.), see Rte. 66. At Hamm a branch line turns off to Munster. Trains in 1 hr., 4^ Germ. m. Stats, at Drensteinfurth and Runker- ode. The many towers of Munster have an imposing appearance at a distance. Munster Stat. (Inns : Ivonig von England, in the market-place ; Rhein- ischer Hof), the capital of the province of Westphalia, has 27,300 Inhab., and is a place of considerable trade and commerce. It was formerly ruled by archbishops, who were princes independent of the Empire ; it is now a Catholic bishop’s see. It is one of the most curious old towns in Germany, though it has not the high antiquity or fine situation of those on the Rhine and Danube. Along the ground floor of the houses of the main streets (Principal and Kom-Markt, chiefly of loth and 16th cents., run arcades, supporting the upper stories, reminding the tra¬ veller of Padua and Bologna. There are some fine mansions of the West¬ phalia noblesse, e.g., the Erbdrostcn Hof, the Rombergcr Ilof, dating from the 18th cent. The Gothic buildings are remarkable for their good taste and picturesque beauty, and, spite of the disorders of which Munster has been the scene, for their good preservation. The most remarkable Prussia. ROUTE 69. -MUNSTER. 391 are, the * Cathedral, of mixed Ro¬ manesque and Gothic architecture (date 1225-61), surmounted by 2 pyramidal spires, with 2 transepts and very low side aisles. The parts of it most worth notice are, the S. Transept (outside), and the S. porch, within the Narthcx, or Para¬ dise as it is called, with Byzantine pillars and sculptures. Inside, the Roodloft, here called “ Apostelgang,” and its staircases of stone, 16th cent.; the Sacrament’s house, the brass font , and stained glass. The body of the church was gutted by the Anabaptists. The choir, the handsomest portion, has been vilely daubed with peach-colour and green and miserable arabesques. Observe a Last Judgment, a huge sculpture in stone, 1692, in the S. transept; a Biota, of marble, under the organ, by Ach- tcrnian, a living sculptor, a native of Munster. Behind the choir is the tomb of Bishop Galen , who, notwithstanding his ecclesiastical title and profession, spent a life of perpetual warfare, main¬ taining an army of 42,000 foot, 18,000 horse, and 200 cannoneers. He is ap¬ propriately styled in his epitaph “IIos- tium terror,” but he was equally dreaded by his friends, for, being offended soon after his accession by the con¬ duct of the townsfolk, he mercilessly bombarded the town until he was ap¬ peased by promises of submission. In order, however, to make sure of obedi¬ ence, he erected the very strong Citadel. The English government considered him a person of so much importance that they sent Sir Wm. Temple, in 1664, to negotiate an alliance with him ; but the Bishop had previously sold him¬ self to the Dutch. The * Ueberwasser Kir die (date 1340), especially its massive square tower, is a fine specimen of Gothic art, which seems to have flourished in its best state in Westphalia during the 14th and 15th cent. The spire was de¬ stroyed by the Anabaptists, 1533-35, on the principle that “ high things shall be laid low.” The Ludgeri Kirche is the oldest in the town. The nave has massive piers supporting circular arches, 12 th cent. The lower portion of the tower is also Romanesque. The airy choir and the graceful octagonal lantern of the tower are in the pure Pointed stylo, 15th cent. This ch. was restored and de¬ corated with paintings, carvings, and stained glass, 1860. At the end of the principal market place is *St. Lambert'’s Ch., in the best Gothic style of the 14th cent. One of the windows, S. side, is filled with a tree of Jesse , carved in stone; very elegant. From its leaning tower still hang the iron cages in which the bodies of John of Leyden, the Tailor King, Knipperdolling, and Krechting, his two ministers and col¬ leagues—the leaders of the Anabaptists —were suspended, after they had been cruelly tortured for the space of an hour with red-hot pincers, previous to their execution in the Great Square. These fanatics, after expelling from the town, in 1534, all the respectable and rational inhabitants, and filling it with ignorant peasants and enthusiasts, who flocked hither from Holland, Friesland, and Westphalia, proclaimed Munster to be the Hove Jerusalem mentioned in the prophecies. They appointed them¬ selves its sovereigns, and maintained possession of it for the space of many months, establishing a community of goods and of women, attacking all con¬ stituted authorities, as the only means of rooting out evil from the earth (!), committing the most horrid atrocities, substituting polygamy for marriage, and the like. The house of John of Leyden, orna¬ mented with curious carvings, still ex¬ ists behind the Post-office (Dom Curie). The *Rathhaus is a singular and beau¬ tiful specimen of Gothic, 14th and 15th cent. Under a colonnade running round the lower story arc exposed the tongs and pincers with which the Anabaptists were tortured previous to their exe¬ cution. In the Friedenssaal , which is well preserved and well worth seeing, the Peace of Westphalia , which ended the Thirty Years’ War, was signed May, 1648. It contains paintings of the am¬ bassadors and sovereigns who took part in the Congress, some of them by Terburg. The cushions they sat upon still cover their seats. Here also 392 ROUTE 69 . —OSNABRUCK. Sect. V. are shcnvn John of Leyden’s hand, cnt off before his execution, shrivelled and dried, his carved bedstead, Sec. A grand Gothic Hall was added from Salzenberg’s design, 1860, when the Rathhaus was restored. The Schloss , formerly Palace of the Bishop, now the residence of the com¬ mandant, is handsome, and has a fine staircase, but is fast falling to decay. Behind it there are pretty gardens, oc¬ cupying the site of the old citadel. The fortifications, now levelled and planted, form agreeable walks round the town. On the Dom Platz, near the Bishop’s residence, is a Museum of Church antiquities, and not far off the Stande- haus—House of Assembly of the Estates of Westphalia. The church of St. Ignatius , built by the Jesuits, 1858, contains painted glass by Didron, &c., and carved work ; St. Aegidins (Giles) was painted in fresco by Steinlc, Settigast, and Mosier; St. Martin's, Romanesque, of 12th cent., was restored 1859, in good taste. The Catholic University , which for¬ merly flourished here, is supplanted by that of Bonn, and reduced to a College of the theological and philosophical fa¬ culties. The building, originally a con¬ vent, contains a small collection of na¬ tural history. The Provincial Museum and Kunst Verein , in the Stadtheller , corner of Clemens-str., possess ancient paintings of the Westphalian school. There is a considerable trade in West¬ phalian hams here. Munster is connected with the river Ems by a navigable Canal. Railway to Leer and Emdcn (Rte. 7); to Osnabriick Sclinellpost daily to Wesel. The Railway to Osnahriick passes over a flat of cultivated and heath land by stats. Greven, Mesum, and makes an acute bend near Rheine Jnnct. Stat. (Inns: Bahnhofs Rest"- ; Hotel Schulze), a flourishing Prussian town, on the Ems, with a handsome Gothic ch. and tower ; many new buildings. Rail to Emden (Rte. 7). Here carriages are changed. The Hanoverian Railway turns E. through llorstel, Ibbenbuhren (a mining dis¬ trict), and Velpe stats. Enter Hanover. The secularized nunnery of Gertrudcn- berg, now a military hospital, is seen 1. before entering the Osnabriick Stat. (Inns: Schaumbcrg’s, near the stat. ; Hutting’s Hotel), capital of a Hanoverian province (or Landrostei) of the same name, has 14,855 Inhab. (^Catholics); since 1858 a Roman Catholic Bishop’s See, pre¬ viously Protestant. Formerly the go¬ vernor, nominated by the King of Hanover, bore the title of Bishop, with¬ out sharing the ecclesiastical dignity: thus the late Duke of York was made Bishop of Osnabriick while an infant. The Cathedral , a fine Romanesque edifice, chiefly of the 12th cent.; 2 square W. towers, and an octagonal tower at the crossing; square E. end, and chapel, with ti'iple windows ; side screens to choir; sacristy 1150-1200; cloisters. In the Treasury are preserved an ivory comb of Charlemagne, richly carved. Five Shrines of Gothic work, which contained the relics of SS. Crispin and Crispian, 12th cent.; St. Regina, 13th cent.; St. Cordula, &c.; a gold crucifix, set with antique gems ; others of silver. A cylindrical Font of bronze, with reliefs and inscriptions of 12th cent. In front of the dome, a statue of Justus Moser (d. 1794), “ The Frank¬ lin of Westphalia.” Johanniskirche , evidently copied from the Dom, but a cent, later, square E. end; old altar now at the end of N. aisle ; a Gothic Tabernacle , rich in sculpture and tracery; fine old silver crosses in the sacristy. The Rathhaus , a castellated building, 15tli cent., in which the negotiations for the peace of West¬ phalia were partly carried on, contains a collection of portraits of the princes and ambassadors engaged in the con¬ gress, old plate, some of fine models. Fine freestone for building is obtained here. The rly. is continued to Hanover by Melle Stat. 2 m. N. lies the Cha¬ teau of Dietrichburg, belonging to the Count Schulenburg-Wolfsburg. Brachmuhlcn Stat. Lohne Janet. Stat., on the Cologne- Minden line (Rte. 66). Prussia. route 69 a.—paderborn to hanover. ROUTE 69 a. PADERBORN TO HANOVER, BY THE GRO- TENBERG, EXTERSTEINE, DETMOLD, PYRMONT. 16| Germ. m. = 78f Eng. m. Paderborn. (See Rte. 68.) The principal posting-road, and the shortest, from Paderborn to Hanover, is an interesting and very good road, which leads from Paderborn to Pyrmont by Horn and Meinberg, crossing the range of the Tcutoberger Wald, and passing on the 1. the Tout hill, on which stands the colossal Hermanns Denkmal (see below), Avhence most ex¬ tensive views open out over Westphalia and the principality of Dctmold. It then, descending a long and steep hill covered with wood, and threading a gorge, passes through the Extersteine , a cluster of bold but grotesque rocks of sandstone, rising out of the woods, pic¬ turesquely situated by the side of a sheet of water, with trees growing from many parts of them. One of these rocks, excavated into a hermitage, is the work of Benedictine monks of the Convent of Abdinghof, to whom it belonged in the beginning of the 12th cent.; other rock-hewn chambers seem to have been chapels. On the face of the cliff has been carved a rude bas-relief of the Crucifixion, dating probably from the 12th cent. These rocks have been rendered accessible by steps with railings, and a bridge thrown across one of the chasms, so that you may ascend to all the sum¬ mits and enjoy an extensive view. The loftiest mass is 125 ft. high. The grounds about are laid out in gar¬ dens. This is a favourite rendezvous for picnic parties from Pyrmont, Det- 393 mold, and Meinberg. Close at hand is an inn. 2 m. farther lies Horn {Inn, Wit- tenstein), where horses are changed during the winter, but at other sea¬ sons at 4 Meinberg. Inns: Zur Pose (Post), and zum Stern. This is a small but very pretty watering-place, with sul¬ phur and other baths, besides gas-ex¬ halations, which are used in cases of weak eyes. The gardens are extensive and neatly laid out. The Grotenberg may be ascended from Meinberg by taking a light car¬ riage with 2 horses from thence. The road thither lies through Detmold, and the ascent from Meinberg occupies 2hrs. and the return If hr.: the hire of a carriage will be about 6 thalers . It is about 3 m. to the top of the hill from Detmold. It is not very steep, and is in tolerable order. On the Grotenberg (Teut), the highest summit of the Tcutoberger Wald, 1200 ft. above the sea level, a monument to the old German hero Hermann, or Ar- minius, Chief of the Cherusci, who de¬ feated the Roman legions under Varus, has been begun. It was intended to be a colossal statue of hammered copper, 45 ft. high and 80 ft. to the point of the sword. The pedestal, alone finished, is a circular Gothic temple of sandstone 90 ft. high. The statue was made at the copper-works in Lemgo, and lies in disjointed portions in a shed at Det¬ mold. From want of funds the works have been suspended for many years, and are not likely to be resumed. The projector and architect is Mr. Bandel. The hill overlooks the spot where the battle is supposed to have been fought. The view from it is truly magnificent, and will repay the trouble of as¬ cending the mountain. There is a large rampart of loose stones and several bar- rows (Hunengraber—Huns’ graves— as they are called in N. Germany) near the spot. The schneUpost from Paderborn, in¬ stead of passing through the valley of the Extersteine, goes round by Detmold to Meinberg. 3 s 394 ROUTE 70. —FRANKFURT A. M. TO CASSEL. Sect. V. 4 “ Detmold (Inn , Stadt Frankfurt, tolerable), 4000 Inhab., is the capital of the principality of Lippe Detmold. The Palace is a fine old castellated building, somewhat in the stylo of the castle of Glammis in Scotland, having a vast round corner tower or Donjon, with additions of an Elizabethan character. The best view of it is from the upper windows of the /nn, which is opposite to it. The prince is very rich, being the owner of almost all the large estates in his do¬ minions, and all the forests, which are as abundantly stocked with game as any in Germany. He is consequently able to support all the expenses of the go¬ vernment, so that the inhabitants are required to pay hardly any taxes, and are much envied by their neighbours, who are not equally exempted. The Palace Gardens are prettily arranged. The Marstall is a very fine stable, re¬ markably well kept, and worth the in¬ spection of those who take an interest in horses. It contains in general 60 horses, all of the Senncr race, which are bred at the prince’s establishment of Lobshorn, about 5 m. from Detmold. This breed of horses is peculiar. They are allowed to run wild in the Senner Wald (from whence they take their name), which is of great extent, and possess in consequence great endurance, and are very hardy, but, on the other hand, very shy and troublesome to break. They are taken up on the 1st of November and turned out again on the 1st of May, without any reference either to their condition at the time or the state of the weather. The race is of Arabian origin, and has been occa¬ sionally refreshed by new Arabian blood. There is evidence of a stud having existed here since the 15th cent., and it is supposed to be still older. Experiments have recently been made for the first time in crossing this race Avith the best English blood. The es¬ tablishment possesses about 120 mares.” L. S. b. e. (Nearly N. of Detmold, and 1^ Germ, m. distant, on the road to the Ilerford Stat., on the Cologne and Minden rail¬ way, is the curious old town of *Lemgo, containing singular specimens of Gothic architecture, among which arc a pic¬ turesque Rathhaus and the fine Church of St. Nicholai. Lemgo is 2~ Germ. m. from the Ilerford Stat., Etc. 66.) 1 Meinberg. Beyond Meinberg the road passes through a beautiful country to 3~ Pyrmont. For an account of Pyr- mont and the rest of the road to Hano¬ ver, see Rte. 66, 71. ROUTE 70. FRANKFURT A. M. TO CASSEL (RATLW.). 124j Eng. m. This interesting lino of Railway (the Main-Weser Eisen- bahn) was opened Aug. 1851 and 1854. Trains in 8 hrs., express in 4§. Ter¬ minus close to the Taunus Rahnhof in Frankfurt. Bockcnhcim Stat. Old watch tower. Bonames Stat. m ' (Omnibus thither. Yilbel Stat. Niederwollstadt Stat. About 2 m. to the E. of this, in the valley of the Nidda, the Basilica Ch. of Ilbenstadt, with towers of the 12th cent., belonging to Count Leiningen, is seen. Friedberg Stat. ( Bins ; II. Trapp; II. Simon), a very quaint old town of Hesse Darmstadt, with 3300 Inhab. The situation on a hill, and the old walls, with one lofty round tower, are very fine. It has an old castle , and two handsome Gothic churches ; one in Prussia. 395 ROUTE 70. -NAUHEIM. MARBURG. the town ruinous, the other in the castle. The so-called Jews’ Bath, a vault of Roman construction, deserves special notice. A railway viaduct 70 ft. high. At Nauheim Stat. (Inns: II. de I’Europe; Kursaal), a little heyond Friedberg, in an enclave of the elec¬ torate of Cassel, there arc extensive Salt-works. They were so valuable even in the time of Napoleon that he granted them to Kellcrmann, who held them for 4 or 5 years. The proprietors had been for some time endeavouring to bore into a bed of natural salt which the geologists asserted to exist here. Their efforts, however, had not been attended with success, until one night, in the winter of 1855, during a slight shock of earthquake, a column of strong brine, at a temperature of 90 Falir., rose from the bore-hole, and has ever since discharged every 24 hrs., with groat velocity, a column of water nearly 12 inch, in diameter. This most won¬ derful fountain has been enclosed in a brick shaft to a height of about 40 ft. ; but it rises in a white jet, from 12 to 15 ft. above the top of this. The water is conducted into a bath-house, where also the carbonic acid gas which rises from these intensely saline springs is medi¬ cally applied. There is a resident phy¬ sician, Dr. Bode. Gaming tables have been set up here. 1-| Butzbach Stat. The German va¬ grants, known in London as Bava¬ rian broom-girls (Fliegenwedel-handler) come, not from Bavaria, hut from villages in this neighbourhood, to the N. of Frankfurt, in Nassau and Hesse. AValdburg, near Butzbacli, is a very beautiful spot. 2 ruined castles, Fetz- berg and Gleiberg , on separate eminences near 2^- Giessen Jnnct. Stat. — Bins: Rappe, good; Post; Einhorn (Unicorn), a good and clean country inn. This, the chief town of the province of Upper Hesse, is beautifully situated on the Lahn; it has 8000 Inhab. The University , founded in 1607, has an excellent li¬ brary ; a large barrack has been con¬ verted to the uses of learning, in addi¬ tion to the building of the University itself. Liebig the chemist, now at Munich, was long professor here. Railway hence, down the vale of the Lahn, to Wetzlar, Ems, and Coblenz, is very agreeable (see Rte. 96.)—to Fulda. Railway to Cologne, down the valley of the Sieg (Rte. 47). From Giessen to Marburg the course of the railway is down the valley of the Lahn. 1. appear the ruined castles of Fetzberg and Gleiberg on a conical height. Fronhausen is the first station in Hesse Cassel. Cross the Lahn. 1^ Marburg Stat. — Inns: Hotel Pfeilfer; Ritter. Marburg is an in¬ teresting town of 7600 Inhab., on the Lahn ; picturesquely situated on the side and slopes of a hill; 5 hrs. by rail from Frankfurt. Its streets, though narrow, some mere flights of steps, abound in subjects fit for an artist’s pencil, both in costumes and buildings. N.B. A few hours spent here in visiting cli. and castle will be well spent. The University was the first founded in Germany after the Reformation (1527) ; it has 40 professors, but not more than 200 students ; it has a good library. The *Ch. of St. Elizabeth , begun 1235, and completed in 48 years, is a most elegant and interesting edifice, as a specimen of early purity in the Pointed Gothic style, and in perfect preserva¬ tion. It is siirmounted at the AY. end by 2 spires 303 ft. high. In many parts it exhibits the transition from the Round into the Pointed style. It was begun 1235, and finished 1283, by the Landgrave Conrad, Grand Master of the Teutonic Knights, as a ch. for his order, and to contain the richly ornamented Gothic Chapel of St. Eliza¬ beth, who died here, 1231, after making a vow to build a Ch., which was shortly after accomplished by the Knights of the Teutonic order. She was daughter of Andrew, King of Hungary, a Land¬ gravine of Hesse, and was canonised for the sanctity of her life in 1235. The chapel is in one arm of the transept. The stone steps around it are worn hollow by the knees of pilgrims, who resorted to it for 300 years, until Philip of Hesse, the Reformer, put a stop to 39G ROUTE 70. -CASSEL. Sect. Y. the practice, 1539. Within is a carved tablet, representing the saint lying on her coffin surrounded by cripples and sick persons, the objects of her bounty : her soul is seen hovering above her head, on its way to heaven, whence Christ extends to her his hand. The Shrine which contained her body is now placed in the sacristy; it is of oak covered with plates of copper gilt, and ornamented with bas-reliefs of solid silver gilt, a fine work of 13th century art. It is richly inlaid with pearls, antique cameos, and costly gems, but 80 of these were stolen in 1810, when the shrine was removed by the French to Cassel. In the opposite transept are the monuments of some of the Land¬ graves of Hesse in stone, with the orna¬ mental parts of brass, in relief, and handsome in their way, quite different from English brasses. The painted glass in the windows of the choir is very beautiful. Here are the stalls of the Teutonic Knights, and the buildings behind the ch. were the Commandery or Convent of the Order. On the Sclilossberg rises proudly the Castle of the Landgraves of Hesse , a structure of the chivalrous ages, now a Penitentiary. It commands a very fine prospect. It is worth seeing for its architecture, perfect preservation, and situation, particularly the Gateway, the Chapel, and the Knights’ Hall, a vaulted chamber supported by pillars, 116x49 ft., remaining just as it was when Luther and Zioingli discussed in it the question of Transubstantiation, in the presence of the Landgrave (Philip the Magnanimous) of Hesse, 1529. Luther preached from the pidpit in the castle chapel, and the desk still shows a crack caused by his forcible fist. The Lahn is again crossed. 2~ Kirchhain Stat. Neustadt Stat. Treisa Stat. Borken Stat. Wabern Stat. The elector has a country-seat here containing some pic¬ tures. [1 Germ. m. W. is Fritzlar (Inn, II. d’Angleterre) on the Eder, from whose sands gold is washed. The beautiful Stiftskirche is Gothic, of the 12th cent.] The railway crosses the Fulda by a viaduct of 13 arches. Guntershausen Junct. Stat. (Inn: II. Bellevue, comfortable, clean, and well managed. Near this the Railway to Eisenach (Etc. 92) diverges from that to Frankfurt. Our line crosses the avenue to Wilhelmshol/e (Stat.) be¬ fore reaching , //" j M*' nnU Mm* / ^ Cassel Stat. — (Inns : Kbnig von Preussen (in the Konigs Platz, an oval Place , remarkable for the echo in the centre); Kbmiseher Kaiser; Hotel Schirmer)—the capital of the Elector¬ ate of Hesse Cassel, is situated on the Fulda, and contains 38,900 Inhab. It is the residence of the Elector (who retains the title, though there is now no » Emperor of Germany to elect), and scat - of the government. The old town lies low down, close to the river banks, and u | consists of narrow but picturesque ^ { streets, while the new part, built . upon an elevation formerly occupied 7* by a fortress, is airy and agreeable. In the Friedrichs Platz, the largest square in any German town, stands the Elec¬ tor’s Palace , a building of no very im¬ posing appearance, surpassed indeed by the hotels of several bankers in Frank¬ fort. Next to it is the Museum , the handsomest building in Cassel; beyond it are the government offices. One side of the square, on the brow of the hill, is very judiciously left open, to admit the view of the valley, the windings of the Fulda, and the distant Mount Meiss¬ ner. On this side a light gateway leads to the Public Garden (Augarten), a very handsome park, abounding- in fine trees (observe the Weymouth pines), but subject to inundations. In the middle of the square is placed the statue of the Elector Frederick II., after whom it is named. To this prince Cassel owes its principal embellishments and collections of art, &c. &c. His wealth was acquired by trafficking in the lives of his subjects, whom he lent to the King of Great Britain to fight his battles in America and elsewhere ; 5000 Hessian troops were hired, with the consent of Parliament, against the Pretender in Scotland. More than 3 millions sterling were paid for 12,000 Hessians sent to America 1776-84. The Museum , not now readily shown Prussia. 397 ROUTE 70. -CASSEL. to the public, includes, 1, A Library of 90,000 volumes, useful, but not cal¬ culated to interest a passing traveller. 2, A Cabinet of Curiosities in art and nature. One room is nearly filled with watches and clockwork, from the ear¬ liest invented watches made at Nu- remburg, shaped like eggs, and wound up with a piece of catgut, instead of a chain, to the most perfect chronometers. One of the Electors was an amateur watch-maker, and several specimens of his work are here preserved. Here are also a great variety of agates from the mines near Marburg, in the Elector’s dominions, now abandoned; one single mass is formed into a staff 3 or 4 ft. long. Among many elaborate carvings in wood and ivory is one attributed to Albert Purer. An enamelled dagger hilt is believed to be by Benvenuto Cellini. A sword given by Pope Iimo- cent VIII. to a Landgrave of Hesse. Many cases are entirely filled with objects of art and vertii, in amber, ivory, precious stones, gold and silver plate. Antiquities. These were chiefly brought from Herculaneum. A little bronze statue of Victory, 20 in. high, known by casts all over Europe, is the gem of the collection; an exquisitely shaped bronze vase also merits notice. Many of the remains are interesting, from having been found in Germany or Hesse Cassel itself: a Roman Eayle of the 21st Legion, and a helmet, were dug up at Wiesbaden. The coins, medals, and cameos are well arranged for general inspection, under glass cases. Antique Statues. A Minerva, a bas- relief of the Triumph of Bacchus, and a bronze head of Mars, are the best; they were purchased from the Pope for 40,000 dollars. Among modern works are several busts by Canova , of Napo¬ leon, of his son when a child five years old, and of his family. The Cork Models of ancient buildings are good. The Collection of Natural History is not very extensive or excellent. Be¬ sides the usual quantity of stuffed birds and quadrupeds, there are specimens of the woods of 500 different European trees, made up in the form of a library ; j each specimen lias the shape of a | MUSEUM. PICTURES. volume ; the back is formed of the bark; the sides of the wood. A trunk of a laurel which grew in the orangery here, 58 ft. high and 2 ft. diameter, is another botanical curiosity. Among the fossils are two specimens of the gigantic Chama shell dug up by the side of the road to Frankfurt; this shell exists at present only in tropical seas. The Museum is shown by the Director, who receives a fee of 2 dollars, and one dollar for a single person; but when the party is numerous 8 or 10 S. gr. are enough for each person. The * Picture Gallery , in the Belve¬ dere, open Wed. 10—12, and at other times on payment of a fee of 1 thaler to the Custode, contains some very good pictures, very ill arranged. It will well repay a visit, but is not always accessible. The best pictures are of the Dutch school: they include a remarkable series of 18 or 20 fine works of *Rembrandt, including portraits of Kroll the poet; of Burgomaster Six (whole length) ; of the writing master Coppenol; of a halberdier; of Rem¬ brandt, his wife in red satin; of Nic. Bruynink, an ensign of militia ; also Samson seized by the Philistines; Jacob blessing Joseph’s children; a small winter landscape ; a ruined castle on a height, bridge in the foreground, one of his finest landscapes, &c. &c. By Paul Potter , a cattle-piece, 2 cows and 2 sheep, with a man and woman, all life-size ; Van der Lys , a company of soldiers and women, very large and forcible. There are some excellent portraits by Vandyck , a remarkably fine Rubens —the Meeting of Abraham and Mclchisedec, figures life size; Vandyck , portrait of Syndic Mostraeten, and a family group; Mabuse , Triumph of Christianity; Titian , whole length of Don Alphonzo; Holbein , himself, his wife, and children, a family picture ; Teniers , Peasants at a Kirmes ; Silenus by Jordaens , nearly equal to Rubens; and a good piece by Terburg. Many of the best pictures have been removed to St. Petersburg. In the Gothic Ch. of St. Martin, nave 14th cent., choir beginning of 15th, well restored, are several monu¬ ments of the Electoral family, whose 398 ROUTE 70. —CASSEL. WILHELMSHoHE. Sect. V. burial-vault is beneath it. That of Philip the Magnanimous occupies the place of the high altar (d. 1567); that of Landgrave Moritz (1662), and of Landgravine Christine (1549) in bronze. A little below the Friedrichs Platz may be seen the foundation and first story of a vast Palace , called Kattenburg , begun 1820, by a former Elector, and stopped by his death 1821, now over¬ grown with moss and weeds. The Marble Bath, in the Augarten , is a sumptuous piece of extravagance. Though it really contains a bath, this was introduced merely as a pretext for spending money and employing marble, with which its walls are covered. It is stocked with statues and bas-reliefs, by Monnot, an artist of the last cent., whose works, deficient in elevation and purity, have been termed the u Dutch School ” of sculpture. Near this build¬ ing is the Orangery. The Theatre , at the corner of the Friedrichs Platz, is generally open 4 times a-week ; the Opera is tolerably good. Spohr the composer resides here. Cassel and its rulers afforded an asylum to the fugitive Flemish Pro¬ testants, driven from their country by the persecutions under Alva; and after¬ wards to the French Huguenots, exiled by the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. These colonists contributed much to the wealth and prosperity of the town by their industry, as well as to its extent. —One part of it is still called, after them, the French quarter. Johannes von Muller, the Swiss his¬ torian (died 1809), is buried in the old churchyard , outside the Tocltcn Thor. Railways —to Frankfurt; to Eisenach and Gotha ; to Ivarlshafen, Paderborn, and Koln ; to Meiningcn and Coburg (Tliuringian line); to Brunswick, Got¬ tingen, and Hanover; to Dusseldorf. No one should quit Cassel without visiting the famous Gardens of Wtl- iielmsiioiie, the German Versailles. The Elector’s summer palace, within them, is only 3 m. from Cassel, but they extend behind it to the top of a high hill, which is a good hour’s walk in addition. "Wednesday and Sunday are the best days for going thither, as the waterworks then play, generally at half-past 2 in the afternoon. They cease after the end of Sept. A day may be agreeably spent here in explor¬ ing the fine views and natural beauties of the spot, setting aside its artificial marvels ; and there is a very good Inn close to the palace to accommodate visitors. Near the Inn is the New Waterfall 130 feet high. A straight avenue of limes leads from the Wilhelmshohe-Gate of Cassel, where carriages stand for hire to convey pas¬ sengers. (rt.) On quitting the town is a huge edifice built by Jerome Buona¬ parte, while King of "Westphalia, as a barrack, now turned into a mamifactory and poor-house. The vista is termi¬ nated by the figure of the Colossal Her¬ cules on the top of the hill behind Wilhelmshohe. The Palace lies at the foot of the hill; at the side of it stands the Theatre , built by King Jerome Buonaparte, in which he used himself to act; it is now turned into a ball-room. Behind it is the Foun¬ tain, , the highest in Europe, except that at Chatsworth, which throws up a jet of water, 12 inches in diameter, 190 ft. It is supplied from reservoirs 300 ft. higher up the hill. At the back of the pond out of which it rises, is an arti¬ ficial waterfall descending from a tall aqueduct. Both it and the Fountain remain inactive and empty, except on Sundays and "Wednesdays. Their per¬ formances do not continue more than 50 minutes. The more ancient Cascade of the Karlsburg consists of a flight of stone steps, 900 ft. long, leading up to the colossal statue ; over which a stream of water is at times admitted to fall. A carriage road conducts by the side of this gigantic staircase, in zigzags, to the very top of the hill. Upon a sort of landing-place or platform, half-way up the stairs, is a rude representation of the Giant Enceladus, lying on his back, with a mountain of rocks heaped on his breast; it was the intention of the artist who formed him that ho should spout from his mouth a jet of water 50 feet high ; this is now dried up. The staircase of this chateau d’eau (imitated, it is said, from that in the Prussia. 399 ROUTE 71. —HANOVERIAN MUNDEN TO BREMEN. villa d’Este) is surmounted by an oc¬ tagon building 1312 ft. above tlie Fulda, surmounted by a pyramid, serving as a pedestal to tbe Colossal Hercules, 31 ft. high, of beaten copper. It is possible to mount up into the figure ; 8 persons can stand at one time in the hollow of the club, and, out of a little window formed in it, enjoy a prospect extending nearly as far as the Brocken. But the delightful view can be obtained from the top of the hill without so much trouble. The aquatic staircase, and the octagon Temple of the Winds, as it is called, on its summit, with the statue, and other extravagances connected with it, are reported to have employed 2000 men for 14 years. When their labours were completed the cost was found to be so enormous that the accounts were burnt, to destroy all records of it. In descending, a visit may be paid to the Lowenburg , a toy castle, huilt to imitate a stronghold of the middle ages, with drawbridges, battlements, towers, and ditches. Among the rusty suits in the armoury is one which belonged to the Great Conde; there is also a very curi¬ ous collection of drinking - glasses, a series of portraits of the Tudors and Stuarts, and a library filled with ro¬ mances alone. The Elector who built this castle is buried in the chapel. Those who have no taste for the follies above enumerated, will at least be gra¬ tified with the charming and various prospects from the slopes of the Lowen¬ burg, and its agreeable gardens and pleasure-grounds. ROUTE 71. DESCENT OF THE WESER FROM HANO¬ VERIAN MUNDEN TO HAMELN, MIN- DEN, AND BREMEN [PYRMONT], Steamers navigate the Weser be¬ tween Hannoverisch Miinden and Min- den 3 times a week, descending to Ilameln, 18 Germ, m., in 10 hrs., and thence to Prussian Minden (9 G. m,), in 6 hours. They have ceased to run to Bremen. The banks of the Weser (Yisurgis, clade Romanorum nobilis amnis— Velleius ) are picturesque, with¬ out being grand ; the scenery has been compared with that of the Wye, and abounds in finely wooded hills, often descending to the water’s edge. Below Minden the banks of the river are flat and uninteresting. The Weser has a course of 62 Germ. m. = 285 Eng. m., with a fall of 397 ft. to the North Sea. Hannoverisch Miinden , situated at the junction of the Fulda and Werra, whence the steamer starts, is described Rte. 72. Stat. on Ely. from Cassel to Hanover. rt. The wooded hills of the Bram- wald, or Soiling. 1. Reinhardswald. 1. Veckerhagen. 1800 Inhab. Hero was formerly a castle of the Electors of Hesse, now Chemical Works : in the neighbourhood are iron-mines. The Weser makes a great bend round the ruins of the castle of Bramburg, rt., which remain long in sight. rt. Bursfelde. Here was a Benedic¬ tine abbey of the 13th cent., now an estate of the King of Hanover. The church is a well-preserved monument of Byzantine architecture. 400 ROUTE 71.—HOXTER. CORVEY. Sect. V. rt. Lippoldsberge, 650 Inhab., and rt. Bodenfelde, 2 picturesque vil¬ lages. The banks of the river are here covered with a thick forest, part of the romantic scenery of the Solnick: the river forces its way among- high rocks. 1. Karlshafen (Inn: Schwan), 1600 Inhab., at the junction of the Diemel with the Weser, in a picturesque situa¬ tion, with cliffs of red sandstone. A railway was opened 1849, between Casscl and this town, which it is in¬ tended to raise into a place of great com¬ merce. The large magazines were built by the Landgrave Charles in 1700. The town was founded 1699 for French Huguenots exiled from the valleys of the high Alps, who were hospitably re¬ ceived by him and settled here. In the neighbourhood, higher up the river, are two settlements, named by them in the style of the Puritans, Gottestreue, and Gewissenruhe (Truth of God and Pest of Conscience). The inhabitants still preseiwe their French features. Pail way to Cassel (Pt.c. 70), 25 Eng. m. Trains in If hr. A little below Karlshafen the Prus¬ sian territory begins on the 1. bank. 1. Herstelle, a stronghold of Charle¬ magne, where, in 797, during his campaign against the Saxons, he re¬ ceived the ambassadors of the Avars, and of Arragon and Castile. It is named after the cradle of his family, —Ileristal, on the Meuse. No trace of the original castle remains. In its place a modern Gothic chateau lifts its roof above picturesque groups of trees. Below is the village of the same name. 1. Bcverungen, a Prussian village marked by an old prison tower. rt. Lauenforde, a Hanoverian vil¬ lage. 1. Blankenau. Formerly a fortress of the Abbot of Corvey, built in the 13th cent., afterwards a stronghold of the robber knight of Falkenberg. Now a Prussian public office. Opposite is the village of rt. Meinbrexen, in Brunswick. 1. Godelheim, at the foot of the Brunsbcrg : here are mineral springs. Opposite is rt. Fiirstenberg. A castle of the Duke of Brunswick, upon a spur of the Soiling-. Since 1753 it has been a china manufactory. rt. Bofzen. 2^ Iloxter (Inns : Berliner Hof; Stadt Bremen). An old walled Hanse town, 3500 Inhab., the last in Prussian Westphalia, on the 1. bank of the Weser, here crossed by a bridge. The Ch. of St. Kilian is of interesting Romanesque architecture. Near it Charlemagne fought one of his hardest battles against the Saxons. The watch- tower on the Brunsberg is said to be a relic of the strong Saxon fortress built by Bruno , brother of Wittekind. In 1673 Turenne fixed his head¬ quarters here. A fine avenue of chestnuts, 1 m. long, leads to the suppressed (1805) Benedictine Abbey of Corvey (Corveia), (no inn), one of the most ancient ecclesiastical establish¬ ments in Germany. It was founded in 823, by Louis the Pious, and received from Paris, in 836, the relics of St. Vitus ; it became the missionary centre from which Christianity and civiliza¬ tion were spread over a large part of N. Germany and Scandinavia. Ansgar, the Apostle of the N., was a missionary from Corvey, and Pope Gregory V. was abbot here. The only existing MS. of the first 5 books of Tacitus was discovered in the convent library, 1514, and published 1515 by Pope Leo X. The Convent, a plain, square, modern edifice, is now a seat of the Prince of Hohenlohe-Schillingsfurst, Fiirst v. Corvey, but too vast for any private family of whatever rank, and void of interest. The only remains of the old Abbey are in the W. front of the Church , surmounted by twin spires ; the lower story and substruction, with the columns of single blocks in the vestibule, are attributed with some probability to the age of Charlemagne (a.d. 885); the body is of the 15th cent. The Weser winds excessively near rt. Holzmindcn, a town of Bruns¬ wick at the N. extremity of an offset of the Sollinger-wald hills. It has con¬ siderable iron and steel works, mills for cutting paving-stones, an article of Prussia. ROUTE 71. -HAMELN. PYRMONT. 401 export to Bremen, and a celebrated school or gymnasium dedicated “ Deo et litteris.” Near the town are the ruins of Eherstcin, a stronghold of the Counts of that name (Buntrock’s Inn). 1. Ileinsen. Below this the Weser makes a great bend to 1. Polio: here are the ruins of a castle destroyed in the Thirty Years’ War. It had been the principal castle of the counts of Eherstcin. rt. Dolmc. A singular cliff goes by the name of the Pastor you Dolme. Opposite, L, in a narrow gorge, a small stream descends and turns the wheel of the Teufelsmuhlo (the Devil’s mill), mentioned in legends of the 13th cent. rt. Bodenwerder. A small Hano¬ verian town on an island with a boat bridge. The red sandstone displays itself in a peculiar manner on the rt. bank. 1. Kemnade, with a flying bridge. It was the site of a nunnery founded in 1025. The old ch. contains the tombs of many noble families. 1. Hchlcn. The stately chateau, surmounted by 4 towers, was built in 1560, by Count Schulenburg, in whose family it still remains. One of this family, as Field Marshal in the ser¬ vice of the republic of Venice, bravely defended Corfu in 1716 against the Turks. Turkish arms and horse-tail standards, his trophies, are still pre¬ served here. rt. Hagenossen, with a mansion, formerly belonging to the Counts of Eherstcin. rt. Tiindern. At Hastenbeck, 2 m. on the height, the allies, commanded by the D. of Cumberland, were defeated by the French, July 27, 1757. The Convention of Kloster Seven Avas the consequence. 1. Ohr has a modern church inscribed u Der Gcist ist frei, und ohno Zwang der Glaube.” From the top of the Ohrberg, above the village, there is a beautiful view towards the high land about Pyrmont. rt. Hameln ( Inns: Sonne; Stadt Bremen), a Hanoverian town of 6293 Inhab., in a pretty situation on the Weser, here crossed by an iron suspen¬ sion bridge, 816 ft. long, hanging from a pier which rises from an island in the middle. It is a very old place, full of wooden houses in the old German style, and has one fine Church , the Minster , now desecrated and falling to ruin. The octagonal central tower and crypt, the oldest parts, are of 12th cent. The large building near the river is a Penitentiary (Zuchthaus). The Legend of the ‘ Hats of Hameln ’ is well told in one of Browning’s poems. The hill on the opposite side of the river is laid out in public walks, and here is a grotto celebrated for its beer. Hameln was once a strong fortress, and on this hill stood a strong citadel, the Bastille of Han¬ over; but the French blew up its works in 1808. Agreeable excursions may be made up and down the charm¬ ing valley of the Weser. Ohr, a coun¬ try-house, with pretty grounds, is worth a visit. [Coaches daily in summer from Hameln to Pyrmont , 14 Eng. m. to the W. Pyrmont. Inns: Notting’s Hotel; Hemmerich, the best; the Crown (Krone); Stadt Bremen;—Caffe-haus, in which arc inferior Gambling-Tables. The principal gaming-tables are in the Concert Saal. There is a daily table- d’hote during the season in the above- mentioned inns. Pyrmont, situated at the foot of a range of wooded hills, is one of the oldest watering-places in Europe; it was frequented by Charlemagne. Its mineral waters were so high in repute, in 1556, that 10,000 visitors collected here to use them; and as there was no accommodation for such a number in the town, a camp Avas formed on the outside of it, Avhcre they spent a quarter of a year under tents. It noAV belongs to the Prince of Waldeck, who has a Palace here, in which he resides in the season. The concourse of visitors has fallen off 1 , and does not exceed 5000. The season is in July and August. The principal street, lined with a double row of limes, is called the Grosse Alice : it forms a shady walk, extend¬ ing from the Spring (Trinkquelle) to the Schloss, and is the morning pro- 402 ROUTE 71. —OLDENDORF. WEDIGENSTEIN. menado for tliose who drink the waters; at that time a band of music plays. The Palace Garden is surrounded by a rampart and moat: on one of the bastions grows a lime of great size and apparent age. 12 different mineral springs rise in and about the town. The Trinkquelle is the one most in repute : its water is chalybeate—possessing valuable medi¬ cinal properties. It produces an exhi¬ larating or even intoxicating effect, when several glasses are taken together; it is highly impregnated with carbonic acid gas. The gas Douche, or pipe by which the gas arising from the water is inhaled, or directed to any part, is tre- mendouslypowerful. These chalybcates require great caution, and do much harm if improperly taken. The Well-house , above the Trinkquelle, is an octagonal building, surmounted by a clock-tower. The Augenbrunnen is said to be good for sore eyes. The principal baths are das neue Badhaus, and das Badhaus fur Eisenbdder (for chalybeate baths). There are other springs here of saline and acidulous water ; one of the latter is totally without gas, an unique ex¬ ample of the kind. The Gas Grotto (Diinsthohle) is an artificial cavity in the Buntersandstein, from which rises a stream of carbonic acid gas, which, if breathed, is fatal to animal life. Babbits or dogs exposed to its vapour are stifled or killed, as in the Grotto del Cane in Naples. There is a Theatre here, two Ball¬ rooms, and numerous tables for rouge ct noir, hazard, &c. A small congregation of Quakers maintains itself here. Schnellposts daily to Herford (Bte. 66), on the Cologne and Berlin Kail¬ way—to Hanover, in 7 hours. The Extersteine , a picturesque as¬ semblage of rocks, 16 m. distant (Bte. 69a). The Bomberg is worth a visit on account of its view : it is accessible for carriages. Some antiquaries have placed the “ Saltus Teutoburgicus,” the forest in which the Boman legions under Yarns wore defeated by Hermann (Ar- minius) (Bte. 68), between Pyrmont and Detmold. Hermann’s Castle is said Sect. V. to have stood on the Hermannsberg , 5 m. from Pyrmont.] rt. Fischbeck, in a fertile country: here is an ancient church and nunnery, founded 954, now a school for young ladies of noble families. rt. Oldendorf. Inns : Stadt Cassel, Rathskeller. 1400 Inhab., a town of the Elector of Hesse. 1 m. E. rises the Hohenstein, a table rock 1075 ft. high, with precipitous sides. NAY. from Oldendorf is the castle of Schaumburg, built 1030, the family scat of the Counts of that name. In one part of the castle is a gate called “the gate of Heaven,” so named from the beautiful view suddenly opened to the visitor. The hill, called Paschenburg, 1200 ft. high, hangs over the castle (see p. 377). An hotel, much resorted to, is found on this elevated spot, the resi¬ dence of the ranger of the surrounding forests. 1. Binteln. ( Inns : Stadt Bremen, Rathskeller.) 4000 Inliab., capital of the Hessian county of Schaumburg, with a stone bridge over the Weser. Until 1809 there was an university here. A beautiful road leads hence to the watering-place of Eilsen , to the Ludncrklippe, 3 m. off, a cliff from which there is a fine view; and to the Arnsburg , a castle belonging to the Prince of Schaumburg-Lippe, with a collection of antiquities, a picture gallery, and furnished in the style of the midfile ages. It is shown to strangers. 1. Mollcnbeck, formerly a convent, containing a Gothic ch. 1. Yarcnholz, with a castle, dating from 1595, picturesquely situated on the slope of a hill. 1. Ylotho, a Prussian town of 2200 Inhab., with considerable trade. 1. Behme, containing salt-works be¬ longing to the Prussian government. (See Bte. 66.) Here the Minden and Cologne railroad crosses the Weser. 1. Wcdigenstcin, with a ruined Saxon castle, the residence of the Saxon Duke Wittekind, the successful op¬ ponent of Charlemagne, rt. The range of the Siintel; and 1. that of the Wedcn- berg, approach and form the Wesers- Prussia. route 7 2 .—cassel charte— the Porta Westphalica , through, which the Wescr enters the plain of N. Germany. (See Rte. 66.) The hills imme¬ diately above the pass are called, 1. Witte- kindsberg, on the rt. Jacobsberg. On the former, 780 ft. high, is a tower 60 ft., dedicated, 1830, “to the admirers of nature,” and not far off from it is St. Margaret’s chapel, built in the 14th cent. Jacobsberg was formerly called Mt. Anthony, hut the present name was given by Frederick the Great, from one of his old soldiers, who settled here as a vintager, and supplied the king with excellent grapes. At the foot of the Jacohsherg is rt. Ilaus- bergc. 1. Minden. See Rte. 66. Below Minden down to Bremen the shores of the river are flat. No steamer. 1. Todtenhausen, scene of the battle of Minden, 9 Aug. 1759. Rte. 66. 1. Petershagen: the former residence of the Bp. of Minden. 1. Schlusselburg, with an ancient house, containing public offices, for¬ merly an episcopal stronghold. 1. Stolzenau. Inn : D. of York. First Hanoverian place on the lower Weser, a pretty village, with an old castle, formerly the residence of the Counts of Iloya: afterwards an occa¬ sional resort of George II. of England. 1. Liebenau, also a castle of the Counts Iloya. rt. Nienburg, a station on the Bre¬ men and Hanover railroad. Rte. 72 a. rt. Drakenburg : here the Smalkaldic League defeated the Imperialists, 23 May, 1547. 1. Hoya. Inn , Stadt Hanover. 2000 Inhab. An iron bridge here crosses the Weser. In the neighbourhood is the Holy Mount, covered with trees, where from time immemorial vast numbers of herons have built nests. rt. At a distance above the junction of the Aller with the Weser is seen the town of Verden, with its cathedral. Rte. 72 a. rt. Arbergcn is the birthplace of Olbers the astronomer, and Heercn the historian. Bremen. Rte. 72a. TO HANOVER. MUNDEN. 403 ROUTE 72. CASSEL TO HANOVER, BY GoTTINGEN. Railway — Hanoverian Sud-Bahn. Trains daily in 4^ and 5 hrs. It turns out of the line to Paderborn (Rte. 68). See rt. Wilhelmshohe. It follows for some distance the windings of the pic¬ turesque valley of the Fulda. Miinden (Hannoveriscli) Stat. — Inns: Goldener Lowe ; Bahnhofs Rc- stauration. A town of 6000 Inhab., situated between the Fulda and Werra. These two streams unite immediately below the town, and, losing their names, become the Weser , which is navigated hence to Minden by steamers (Rte. 71). The Schloss , or old castle, built 1566, by Duke Erich II., formerly a residence of the Guelphic ancestors of the Royal Family of England, is turned into a magazine, and its windows walled up. The Ch. of St. Blaise is a fine building of the 14th century, and contains a monument of Erich II. From the public walk called the Andreas Berg, there is a good view of the town and the surrounding country. The scenery round the town is pleas¬ ing, and has been compared with that of the Yale of Llangollen, in N. Wales. Fine view from Andrees’ garden, be¬ yond the Werra bridge. The Rly. crosses the Werra on a bridge of 6 arches, and begins a gradual ascent—overlooking the vale of Weser—to the plateau of the 404 ROUTE 72. —GOTTINGEN. Lome, a district fruitful in oats, but dreary. It reaches its summit level on passing through a short tunnel at Dransfeld Stat. The village was burnt in 1834, except 2 or 3 houses. Gottingen Stat. — Inns: Krone ; Stadt London ; Englischcr Hof. Hone very good. Gottingen lies on the Leine, and has 11,400 Inhab. It is remark¬ able only for its University. It is des¬ titute of fine buildings, and the houses, though old, are neither venerable nor picturesque in their antiquity, except, perhaps, the Rathhaus , a castellated edifice. The Ramparts , now planted with trees, serve as a walk, resembling the walls of Chichester. There is an air of solitude about the town, which even the number of students cannot remove. They may be distinguished in the streets by the almost inseparable pipe and port¬ folio with which each is provided. Commerce seems to be confined to lite¬ rature and tobacco; and the only flourishing trades are the booksellers and pipe-sellers, as their shops out¬ number all others. The University (Georgia August a) ranks high in Germany. It was founded in 1737, by Geo. II., at the suggestion of his minister Munchausen. It is re¬ garded as the national university of Brunswick, Mecklenburg, and Nassau, as well as of Hanover. The colour of the cap distinguishes the country of each student. The number of students is about 750, and of professors 60 or 70. William IV., to whom a statue has been raised, gave 3000/. towards erect¬ ing a building for the University , which was completed and opened in 1837. Here the Council of the University meets. The Aida, in which degrees are conferred, &c., is an apartment some¬ what like the Senate-house at Cam¬ bridge, but not so large. Though gaudily painted, it is on the whole a handsome and effective room. The prison (kerker), in which stu¬ dents are confined by the authority of the Pro-rector of the University and the Senatus Acadcmieus, shows, by the in¬ scriptions on the walls made by these Sect. V. culprits, that imprisonments of 10 days are not unusual. Duels take place almost every day, sometimes 4 or 5 per diem, at a house a short distance outside the gates. The beadle of the University, who shows the museum, told the writer that even his son had fought 27 since his academical studies began. The first week after entering he received a gash on the cheek; and before the wound was healed he was brought home with his nose slit. But what could the beadle do ? His son’s antagonist, the perpetrator of this, was the son of the Pro-rector of the University! The Library , situated in what was once a handsome church, is excellent, and very extensive, having 500,000 printed volumes and 5000 MSS., and better arranged than that of the British Museum. It is very rich in modern literature and in scientific works. The collection of paintings belonging to the eh. contains a curious altarpiecc, by John Raphon of Eimbeck, 1506. The Museum of Natural History is not worthy of the University; but the late Trof. Blumenbach bequeathed to it his valuable collection, including human skulls of the natives of all quarters of the globe. Hero are some dresses brought from the South Seas by Capt. Cook, and a few paintings. The Botanic Garden is very good. The Observatory is under Professor Gauss. The Gottingen sausages possess some reputation among epicures. Bologna, Oxford, and Cambridge, all university towns, enjoy a similar celebrity. The excursion to the Harz is very conveniently made from Gottingen, by way of Nordheim and Osterodc. (Bte. TA.) 2‘| Nordheim, Stat. (Bte. 73.) Post¬ waggon 3 times a day to Osterode. Salzderhelden Stat. 3 m. NAY. lies Eimbeck, a town of 5000 Inhab., on the lime. New church well re¬ stored old church also good: Rath¬ haus , date 1593. The vale of the lime is pretty and fertile ; it leads to Ahlefcld, agreeably situated; handsome tower, with 4 turrets; a had road to Hildesheim, but through a pretty country. Hanover. ROUTE 72. -HILDESHEIM. 405 Kreienscn June. Stat. Here the Illy, to Brunswick branches rt. (Rte. 68.) Alfeld Stat., a town with a double, spired ch. and watch-tower, at the foot of the Sieben-Brlider. Banteln Stat. Seat of Count Bcn- ingsen. Else Stat. ( Inn, Post.) The river Leinc is crossed near Nordstemmen June. Stat. [Hence a branch line diverges to Hildesheim Stat. {Inns: Blicinischer Hof; H. d’Angleterre; Wiener Hof), an ancient episcopal city, with 16,000 Inhab., many interesting antiquities, and some manufactures. The * Cathedral is a remarkable build¬ ing of the 11th cent.; the Gothic porch added 1412; its bronze gates, 16 ft. high, arc a valuable specimen of early art, made for Bp. Bernward, 1015; the subject of the bas-reliefs is the First and Second Adam. (See St. Paul’s Epistles.) The ch. con¬ tains the gilt shrine of St. Godehard, 4 ft. long, date probably 1131; also a bronze font with bas-reliefs, 6 ft. high, including the cover, supported by 4 figures representing the rivers of Para¬ dise, of the 12th cent.; and an Ir- minsaule , a pillar of coloured alabaster, now surmounted by the cross, in the centre of the ch., looked upon as an idol of the Pagan Saxons. (See note under Bremen, Bte. 72 a.) “ The rood- loft is a fine specimen of Renaissance (1546) carving and tracery. In a side altar, S. aisle, are some curious enamel figures, Byzantine style. The Treasury is rich in antique ch. plate. The cloister is small, but of great antiquity; a pretty small chapel, St. Anne, in the centre.”— F. S. A rose-tree growing on the wall of the crypt is said to have been planted by Charlemagne. On the Dom Platz or close stands Bishop Bernward’s brazen pillar, 14 ft. high, bearing, in bas-relief, 28 repre¬ sentations of the events of our Lord’s Life and Passion, winding round it like a scroll, from the base upwards, after the manner of those of Trajan’s column. Date 1022. St. Godehard , founded in 1133, built on the same plan as the Dom, is much more curious as being in its original state. The style is plain, perfect Ro¬ manesque ; but the capitals are very rich, in high relief, and the N. door is much ornamented. St. Michael's , similar to it, even grander in its proportions than the Dom, is a nearly unaltered basilica (dates 1022 and 1186). It is upon the Bene¬ dictine plan, with 2 apsiclal choirs, 2 transepts, 2 crypts, and originally 6 towers. Observe the carving of the capitals and wooden stalls, and the series of scripture subjects painted on the nave-roof. It has a fine cloister; the wall of the choir is ornamented with figures of apostles, &c., in re¬ lief. The neighbouring convent is now a Narren-Anstalt. The Church on the Moritzberg is very ancient. The Churches of St. Andreas and St. Lambert are also worth a visit. In the very rich Treasury are a silver model of the Tower of the Dom in 1367, the shrine of St. Oswald; a silver cross and chalice, a crucifix 20 in. high, covered with gold plates, set with precious stones, and ornamented with filigree, the work of Bishop Bernward (d. 1122), who was a great promoter of the art; also 2 candelabra of bronze, ornamented with bas-relief. Obs. the Rathhaus , having portraits of the Bishops on its walls, and Tempelhaus; the House of Auditor Wyncken in the Langenhagen, front entirely of carved stone-work (17th cent.). The Square, Altmarkt- strasse, and street behind, abound in curious specimens of old domestic architecture, timber-framed houses, &c. The Georg's Stift, a sort of lay Nun¬ nery, its inmates not being bound by vows, was founded 1829 by George IV., for 12 daughters of men who had served the state, eligible without reference to birth or religion. There is a good post-road from Hildesheim to Goslar, in the Harz. (Rte. 73.)] From Nordstemmen the Hanover Rly. proceeds to Sarstedt, Rethcn, "VVulfel Stats, to Hanover Station. (Rte. 66.) 400 ROUTE 72 A.—DUSSELDORF TO BREMEN. Sect. V. sembling Decorated. Ohs. several mo¬ numents of Bishops, the Bishop’s Throne (14th cent.), and some old glass. In the adjoining small Ch. of St. Andrew is the earliest brass known in Germany or England, to Bp. Yso., d. 1231. Langwcdel Stat. Achim Stat. Sehaldsbruck Stat. EOUTE 72 a. DUSSELDORF TO BREMEN-. RAILWAY. The Cologne, Minden, and Hanover Railway is followed as far as Wunstorf Junct. Stat.—seo Rte. 66 . Wunstorf to Bremen, 63 Eng. m. 3 trains daily in 2 T hours. It is for the most part over a dreary country. 1. in the distance is seen the Steinhuder Meer, a large mere or lake: on an island in the midst Count Wm. v. der Lippe huilt a toy fortress and erected a military school, in which General Scharnhorst began his education. Some miles farther W. are the remains of the Abbey of Loccum, consisting of a fine pointed ch. repaired since 1850, cloister, chapter-house, refectory, and other buildings, founded by the Cistercian Order i240-50. The E. end of the ch. is square, and is flanked on each side with a pair of curious chapels. Neustadt Stat. Nienburg Stat. Inn, Stadt London. The fortifications of this town were razed in 1807 by the French. Verden Stat., on the river Aller, the seat of a bishopric founded by Charle¬ magne, who slaughtered here 4000 of the Pagan Saxons. The Bom , 274 ft. long ; choir, and transepts date 1291-1390 : the nave, 1473-90, de¬ serves examination ; it is part of brick, part of stone. The windows of the transepts and E. end show good tra¬ cery of brick moulded in a style rc- Bremen Stat., on the N. side of the town and of the Weser. Bremen. Inns: Stadt Frankfurt; Lindcnhof—both in the Domshof. II. do TEurope ; Hillman’s Hotel—both near the railway. Droschkies ply at the railway Stat., and in the town. Money.-— Local accounts are kept in Grote. The Truss. Dollar = 63 Grote ; Dutch Gulden = 36 Grote ; 2 Grote = 1 S. gr. Bremen is a beautiful, flourishing town, as clean as those of Holland, surrounded by gardens and new white houses, and containing many curious buildings within. It was an¬ ciently a Free City of the Empire, and is still one of the 3 Hanse Towns. It has 70,000 Inhab. (4000 It. Cath.). The old town lies on the rt. bank of the Weser, and the new town on the 1. They are connected by a handsome bridge. The dyke of the Weser causes some apprehension to the town. No dredging being used to deepen the chan¬ nel, the bottom of the river rises by degrees, and the dyke is raised year after year in consequence, so that in time the bed of the liver will be on a level with the town itself; and, were the dyke to break, immense injury would ensue. The dyke gave way during the winter a few years ago, and the water overflowed a large tract of land, besides washing away many houses. The entire territory of Bremen is about 8-5 Germ, square m. iu extent, consisting chiefly of drained marsh-land, intersected by ditches and canals, affording good pasturage to cattle. It is surrounded by the territories of Hanover and Oldenburg. It is go¬ verned by a senate, which enjoys the dignified title of Die Witthcit (The Wisdom). It has some manufactures, but its prosperity depends chiefly on its shipping and trade with France, Great Prussia. ROUTE 72 A.—BREMEN. Britain, N. America, the Baltic, and Spain. A greater quantity of tobacco is imported here than in all the other ports of Germany put together, averag¬ ing more than 24 million lbs. annually. The improvements in the navigation of the Weser and its confluents have ex¬ tended the relations of Bremen into the heart of Germany. Almost all the objects of interest arc comprised within a limited area E. of the town and not far from the stat. In the Dom (Lutheran), originally a Romanesque building, 12th cent., with additions resembling in parts the E. English style (it is 100 ft. high), Ohs. the square E. end, and the open gallery in the N.E. aisle. The organ is one of the finest in Germany. In front of it are some fragments of a beautiful roodloft with bas-reliefs (1500). See the bronze Font, supported by 4 antique figures riding on lions, and en¬ circled with small bas-reliefs; an cn- grayed brass in the sacristy (1477); and some carved stalls, now in a side chapel. Under the eh. is a,crt/pt(Blcikellcr) which has the property of preserving free from decomposition, after the lapse of cen¬ turies, several bodies interred in it. The sexton who shows them to the curious stranger recounts their names and his¬ tories, as though he were describing a gallery of pictures. St. Ansgar is a eh. of 13th cent., E. end flat, with lancet windows of brick; body of the ch. stone. Tower 324 ft. high. The Eathhcius, in the Market-place, has the side facing the Dom of good late Gothic (1410), but its S. fagadc, added 1612, is an equally good example of the Renaissance style, much en¬ riched with fantastic sculpture, statues of the 7 Electors and Emperor, &c. See in the great Hall (always open) the marble statue of Burgomaster Schmidt; the ladies’ balcony (Guldenkammer) and carved staircase leading to it. On the W. side is the entrance to the Cellars beneath. In a particular compartment are casks called the Ease, and the 12 Apostles , filled with fine hock, some of it a century and a half old. It is sold in glasses or bottles. 407 This nectar was at one time valued at a ducat a glass. Good oysters may be had here; an abundant supply of excellent Rhenish is close at hand, and admirable cigars may be procured in Bremen. In the market-place, opposite the Rathhaus, is a Eolandsdnle ,* a stone statue of a man 18 ft. high, a symbol of the rights and privileges of the town, erected 1412 in the place of a wooden one. The drawn sword and the head and hand at the feet of the figure refer to the power of life and death in crimi¬ nal causes enjoyed by the magistrates. A new Exchange (Ncue Borse), a handsome building, was erected 1864-5. 1 o’clock is the hour of business. In the same place is the Schiiiting, a Chamber of Commerce, where the head merchants meet to transact bu¬ siness. The Museum in the Domshof is a club where newspapers are taken in, and to which a good collection of natu¬ ral history is attached. The Kunsthalle is a largo building devoted to the purposes of art, holding the collections of the Art Union. Within are a Psyche, by Steinhauser, and some modern German pictures. Mr. Albers has a small but choice col¬ lection of ancient and modern pic¬ tures. Others, the astronomer, who discovered in his observatory here the planets Yesta and Pallas, was a native of this place, as well as Heeren the historian. A statue of Olbers, by Steinhauser, a Bremen sculptor, has been erected on the Boulevard ; and one of Gustav Adolph, by Fogelberg, a Swede, on the Domshaide. The Artists' Club (Kunstlerverein) is a Gothic building, loth cent., carefully restored. It includes coffee- and con- cert-rooms. Strangers may be intro¬ duced by a member, here or at the Union Club. Pleasant Walks, on the site of the rampart or Stadt Wall round the town. # These Roland-columns are found in several towns of N. Germany, and were no doubt first erected after the conversion of the Germans to Christianity, to replace the sacred trees and columns around which the chief men of the nation used to hold their assemblies. 408 ROUTE 72 a.—BREMEN. 73. —THE HARZ. Sect. V. There is a Theatre for German plays and operas. Railroads to Brcmerhafen, Wunstorf, Lchrte, Hanover, Berlin, Diisseldorf, Munster, Osnabruck, and Cologne ; Oldenburg, 1865. Eilwagen to Hamburg, Diepholz. Steamers from Bremerhafen to Lon¬ don twice a week; to Hull once in about 40 hrs. ; to New York, touch¬ ing at Southampton, twice a month, in 12 to 16 days. Bremen to Bremerhafen. Rail in If hr. Steamer several times a day, in 6 hrs. The depth of water in the Weser at Bremen is only sufficient to admit small vessels drawing 7 ft. Ships of burthen unload their cargoes at the port of Bre¬ merhafen (Inns , Steinhof’s and Lloyd’s Hotels), near the mouth of the Weser, 30 m. below Bremen, opened in 1830, and built on a piece of ground ceded by the government of Hanover. It is rising rapidly into importance (6000 nhab.). Every year from 40,000 to 60,000 German emigrants embark here for America. The Auswanderer Hans , built 1849, is a useful establishment, capable of receiving 2500 persons, and of feeding 6000 per diem from its kitchen. Steamers ply in 13-15 hrs. 3 times every week in summer to the island Nordernei , one of the chain of broken dimes, or sand islands, which skirt the coast of Germany from Holland to Denmark. It is frequented as a watering-place by the Germans. ( Bins: Logirhaus, generally taken for the King of Hanover and his suite; Kruse’s; and Schutte.) At low water the island may he reached on foot or in a carriage from the mainland. A guide, called Strandvogt, shows the way. The Weser is usually accessible in winter, and the landing is in a commo¬ dious dock at Bremerhafen. The King of Prussia has purchased at Jahde a piece of land on the rt. hank of the Weser from the Grand Duke of Oldenburg, in order to form a dock¬ yard and naval arsenal. ROUTE 73. the harz.—Gottingen to claus- THAL, GOSLAR, THE BROCKEN, THE ROSSTRAPPE, VALE OF THE BODE, AND ALEXISBAD. The Harz, the most northerly range of mountains in Germany, is about 70 m. long, and 20 to 28 broad; it lies on the confines of Hanover, Brunswick, Anhalt, Bernburg, and Prussia; and is divided among them, though the largest share belongs to Hanover. The Brocken, the loftiest summit, is lower than the highest British mountains, hut the Harz chain rises alone, immediately out of a level plain extending all the way to the Baltic, whose inhabitants, accustomed to an uninterrupted flat, exaggerate both the elevation and the beauties of the onty range of hills that falls within their observation. Their scenery would appear tame, and their height inconsiderable, to one accus¬ tomed to the Alps, in comparison with which the Harz is a mere molehill. This statement is made with the view of counteracting the exaggerated praises of some of the guide-books ; indeed, it is hardly worth the while of the hunter after the picturesque, who has seen other parts of Europe, to go far out of his way to explore the Harz, unless he he, at the same time, a geologist, or interested in mining operations, as these branches of knowledge may be profit¬ ably studied here. Prussia . ROUTE 73. —TIIE IIARZ. 409 The points usually visited are, the Brocken , on account of its view, which is rarely seen, owing to the mists which envelop it, and the constant rain at most seasons ; it is also famous for the superstitions connected with it, and for the phenomenon called Spectre of the Brocken. The Rosstrappe and valley of the Bode are more interesting than the Brocken, from their fine and pecu¬ liar scenery. Between these two places arc the curious caves of Baumanns and Bielshohle , interesting to geologists on account of the fossil hones found in them. The principal mines are at Clausthal , Andreasberg , and Goslar. For the Germans this district has a peculiar historical interest, as it is sup¬ posed to he the land of Hermann (Ar- minius), the formidable antagonist of j the Romans, and among its woods and rocks were the fastnesses of the indomi¬ table Cherusci. A carriage with 2 horses costs 4 thalers the day—a guide is well paid with 1 thaler. Plan for an abbreviated Tour of the Harz. —“ Start from Gottingen in the morning by the diligence for Nordheim, and, posting to Andreasberg, reach that place by two o’clock. The stage from Harzluirg (where the Harz properly commences) to Andreasberg is woody and picturesque. A short time being allowed for dinner, to visit the mouth of Samson’s Mine and the stamping- works adjoining, abundance of time re¬ mains to pursue the agreeable walk which leads to the top of the Brocken, hut for which, in part, a guide is desir¬ able, on account of the swampy nature of the ground. The traveller follows during this walk a watercourse called the Rehbergcrgraben, which conveys a stream to the works of Andreasberg from a place called Oderteich, and passes through one of the most charac¬ teristic and picturesque valleys of the Harz. “ After sleeping at the Brocken an excursion should he made down the valley of the Ilsc to the point called Ilsenstein, and the traveller, then re¬ tracing his steps for some way, passes across the N.E. shoulders of the Broc- [n. G.] ken, under the Zetter-klippen, to Schierke, where he may dine, and reach Elbingerode in the evening, and he might even visit the open iron-mines of Buchberg the same day. “ Next day should he devoted to a visit to the Rosstrappe. The caves at Riibeland are scarce worth visiting, hut thence a guide may he procured to point out the shortest woodland path to the Rosstrappe, 12 m. distant, which displays the greatest variety of charm¬ ing scenery. The walks round the Rosstrappe might occupy some hours, and the small new bathing establish¬ ment might afford accommodation ; or two hours’ walk will take the traveller to Blankenburg, at the extremity of the Harz.”— Pr. F. From Brunswick the Harz is now readily approached by the Harzburg Railway (Rtc. 66), which terminates at Harzburg or Neustadt-Harzburg, as it is also called, 6 m. from Goslar. Rly. from Ilalberstadt by Ditfurth and Quedlinburg to Thale. The Roads in the interior of the Harz arc very bad indeed, especially in wet weather. You plough with the carriage wheels through the sand and mud rather than drive over the country. A good mac¬ adamised carriage road runs between Gottingen and Goslar; but between Goslar, AYernigerode, and Ilalberstadt, it is only tolerable. From AYernigerode to Elbingerode and Blankenburg, the same. A good macadamised road has been constructed from Clausthal to Andreasberg over the Bruchberg; it extends to Braunlege, Rothehlitte, and Elbingerode. A good road leads from Harzburg to the Torfliause, at the foot of the Brocken, and thence past the Oder Teich to Oderbruch and Konigskrug. From AVernigerode to the Brocken there is a carriage road, practicable, however, only for light car¬ riages or horses beyond Ilsenburg. All deviations from these lines, to visit the Brocken, Rosstrappe, &c., must be made in carriages of the country, on horse¬ back, or on foot. The following excursion may be easily made in 4 days, thus:— T 410 ROUTE 73.—THE HARZ. CLAUSTHAL. Sect. V. 1 st, from Gottingen to Goslar. 2nd, Goslar to the Brocken. 3rd, Brocken to Blankenburg. 4th, to Bosstrappe and Alcxisbad. From Gottingen to Goslar is half a day’s journey. We follow the Bailroad from Gottingen to Hanover and Bruns¬ wick (Bte. 72) as far as 2~ Nordheim Stat. (Inn: Sonne, good) ( Gothic Ch. 1519, old carved altarpiece and painted glass); and there turn off by a road which passes the village and old castle of Kattenburg, and threads the valleys of the Bhume and Sose. Schnellpost daily in 2^ hrs. to Ostcrode, in 4§ to Clausthal, to Goslar daily in 7 h. The district abounds in gypsum, of which there are quarries at the road-side. 2 '| Osterode. Inns ; Englischer Hof; Krone; Kronprinz. A town of 5000 Inhab., on the Sose, supported by various manufactures of wool, cotton, &c. It contains enormous corn ware¬ houses, from which, by a provision of the government, the miners of the dis¬ trict and their families are supplied with com at a fixed low price, even in times of scarcity, and when it rises in other districts. The Harz itself, from its elevation and barren soil, produces scarcely any grain. There are some curious old monuments in the Church. In front of the Eathhaus hang, at¬ tached to chains, a knife and a long bone: their origin or meaning is not satisfactorily explained. A few miles beyond this the ascent of the Harz begins; the two stages hence to Goslar are so hilly, that the postmasters’ regulations allow them to put on additional horses to carriages. The hills are clothed with dark pine- woods ; glimpses of the Brocken may be obtained on the right. The goitre is not uncommon among the inhabitants of Lerbach. 1 \ Clausthal.—Inns : Goldene Krone ; Stadt London. This is the principal mining town (Bergstadt) of the Harz ; it has 9070 inhab., and the adjoining town of ZeUerfeld 4176, chiefly miners or persons connected with the mines and smelting-houses. It lies in a bare bleak region, on the top and slopes of a hill, 1860 Eng. ft. above the sea, an ele¬ vation where corn ceases to ripen. There is a desolate look about it; its houses arc chiefly of wood, and even its prin¬ cipal church is of the same material. It was destroyed by fire, 1844. In order to visit the School of Mines, Mint, Mines, and Furnaces, strangers must apply to the chief of the mines, Bcrghauptman, for a permission (Er- laubnisschein), which is readily granted, and which the landlord of the inn will procure. The School of Mines (Bergschule), in a corner-house of the market-place, is destined for the gratuitous education of young miners, and is supported by the King of Hanover. It contains an ex¬ tensive collection of models of mines, and of the machinery and buildings used in mining and smelting, very in¬ structive for those who wish to obtain some knowledge of the processes in use. Also a very good cabinet of the minerals found in the Harz. Collectors may purchase specimens here. The Mint (Miinze). Here the pre¬ cious metals produced in the Hano¬ verian district of the Harz are assayed and coined to the extent of about 14,000 dollars weekly, and of 600 or 800 gold ducats (chiefly from the Bamme^sberg near Goslar) annually. The miners’ wages, to the amount of 5000 dollars, are usually paid at the Eathhaus every Saturday, with silver dollars coined during the week. For 5 days out of the 7, a miner in full employment works 12 hours under ground. The Mines principally visited are the Caroline and the Dorothea , as they are the cleanliest and best ventilated. The entrance to them is about half an hour’s walk from the town, at two great black¬ ened buildings, where the stranger, who has secured his permission from the Director of the mines, is provided with a miner’s dress, a stiff felt cap, without a brim, to resist knocks on the head, a leather apron tied on behind, and a coarse grey jacket and trowsers; also with guides to attend him, bearing lights. The descent is by a series of ladders; it is dark, damp, and fa¬ tiguing, but not dangerous : the miner clings fast by his hands, and never Prussia. 411 ROUTE 73. —THE HARZ. GOSLAR. minds his feet; he holds on hy the steps, and not hy the side of the ladder, and this ensures safety. Arrived at the bottom, the visitor sees little except wheels and ropes, hy which the ore is raised, and water pumped out: he hears a rattling of machinery, and here and there finds a solitary miner, plying the pickaxe and chisel, to extract the ore. A general idea of the process of mining is best learned from models above¬ ground. In the mine called Silberse- gen is a perpendicular shaft, 176 fathoms deep, with a pump moved hy a water column, which draws up the water 688 ft. A subterranean canal , 2339 fathoms long, has been constructed to convey the ore from some of the shafts. The mine called Herzog Georg Wilhelm contains one of the deepest shafts in the Harz ; it reaches down 2000 ft., which is below the level of the Baltic. The mines of Clausthal are drained hy a subterranean tunnel, cut through the mountain, 6 m. long, which empties itself at the small town of Grand ; it is called Georgstollen. As the machinery for pumping water out of the mines, as well as for the forges, tilt-hammers, and stamping- mills, is all put in motion hy water¬ power, the utmost attention is paid to collecting an adequate supply for this purpose. Every little rill in the neigh¬ bourhood of Clausthal is dammed up and formed into a reservoir. There are more than 50 of these ponds to supply the works about Clausthal and Zcllerfeld alone; they set in motion 170 water-wheels, and the water is con¬ ducted from the reservoirs to the mills in canals or aqueducts, the entire length of which is not less than 125 Eng. m. About 2 m. W. of Clausthal is the Silver Smelting Foundry, called the Frankenschamer Silberhiitte; the neigh¬ bourhood of it is literally a blasted waste, owing to the destructive effects produced upon vegetation hy the vapours of lead and arsenic which issue from the smelting-houses. The stream puts in motion 13 stamping-mills, where the ore is crushed and washed in readiness for the furnace. There is a cross-road from Clausthal to Goslar, practicable for a light car- | riage with 4 horses, and far more in¬ teresting than the post-road, through the Vale of the Oher , one of the most romantic in the Harz. The finest points are the Studcnten and Fichten- klippe. It passes hy the smelting- houses of Schulenbcrg, and through the village of Oker, 6 or 7 m, lower down, and only 3 m. from Goslar; from Oker to Goslar the road is good. The post-road passes near some enormous Slate Quarries on approach¬ ing Goslar. The rock has been exca¬ vated into a cleft of tremendous depth, in order to drain off the water. The mountain on the rt. is the Eammclsberg. Out of its bowels precious and useful metals, gold, silver, copper, lead, zinc, have been dug for nearly 800 years. So many different minerals are rarely found within so small a space. The mountain is penetrated through and through in all directions hy miners’ shafts and galleries, and its riches are not yet exhausted. The produce at present, however, barely repays the outlay ; hut the works are continued hy the Hanoverian government not¬ withstanding, on account of the large population depending entirely on the mines for subsistence. The ducats coined from the gold derived from this mine have the inscription 11 Ex auro Hercynice.” The ore is not extracted by blasting, hut by the following un¬ usual process. Large stacks of wood are raised within the mine, against the surface of the rock, where it abounds with metal. They arc then set on fire, and allowed to burn for 48 hours to¬ gether, during which time all the open¬ ings and passages of the mine are closed, and no one enters it. At the end of that time the rock is found cracked and shattered hy the heat to the depth of several feet, so that the ore is easily extracted from it. 2 Goslar. Inns: Kaiserworth, a curious old house in the market-place (15th cent.), once the hall of a Guild, or Corporation ; Bomischer Kaiser.— Goslar is 900 Eng. ft. above the sea. It was once a free Imperial city of great importance and antiquity, as it certainly existed in the 10th cent., and T 2 412 ROUTE 73.—THE HARZ. GOSLAR. Sect. V. was the residence of the Emperors of Germany, and seat of the Diet. It is named from the Gose, a small stream flowing through it. It is now a dull and deserted-looking provincial town, with 6800 Inhab., and belongs to Hanover. It is still interesting, how¬ ever, for its history, and for the pecu¬ liarly picturesque air of antiquity dis¬ played in its buildings ; among which the Gothic Eathhaus (15th cent.), con¬ taining some antiquities, and Armenhaus may be specified. The sole relic of the old Imperial Eom is the porch (Vorhalle, date 1150), now used as a Museum ; it was pulled down 1820. This fragment is of early Ro¬ manesque architecture ; on the front are some colossal statues. It contains the Altar of Krodo , a curious antique monu¬ ment of metal, believed at one time to be an altar of the early Saxons, but more probably a shrine or relic chest, of early Italian workmanship (? 11th cent.) The sides and bottom of bronze gilt seem alone to be original; the filigrees and marble top arc of Charlemagne’s time, as perhaps are the bronze frame and kneel¬ ing figures, like some of those which sup¬ port the metal fonts in Germ, churches. It was carried off to Paris by the French. In the same place are deposited some ancient paintings of no great value, and a Crucifixion carved in wood: the windows contain painted glass of the 14th cent. A fragment of the Kaiserhaus — * Emperor’s Palace —2 stories high, stands near this chapel; it resembles the gatehouse at Gclnhausen, but it contains interesting portions of Roman¬ esque architecture,—windows, doors, pillars, capitals,—well worth the study of architect and antiquary. It dates probably from 11th and 12th cent. It is now converted into a corn ware¬ house. The Ch. in the Marhet-place is a good plain Romanesque edifice, founded by the Emp. Henry II. The Neuwerks Kirche (1200-50) is a perfect and plain Romanesque ch., with pointed vaulting, windows 2 and 2 ; curious open pro¬ jections of vaulting pillars; 2 have a ring or snake inserted loose. Apsis curiously ornamented outside. Brass font and candelabra (? date). 2 octa¬ gonal towers. Pulpit with sculptures. Tomb of the Wittgensteins, 1400. The Zimnger, one of the old towers which formed the outer defences of the city, is now fitted up as a place of en¬ tertainment, in which beer caRed Gose is sold; its walls are 21 ft. thick. Marshal Saxe, son of the celebrated Aurora von Konigsmark, mistress of Augustus of Saxony, was born at Goslar, Oct. 28, 1696. His birth is registered here as “ Meurice , son of a great lady, born in Winkel’s house,” without the name of father or mother. Near the Roscnthor. The Ch. of the Neuworli (date 1178-86) shows the tran¬ sition from round to pointed. In a private garden, outside the Rosenthor, are a portion of the ruins of the Church of Richenberg, a crypt of 3 aisles, built 1131. In order to visit the Mines in the Eammelsberg a permission must be obtained from the Chief of the mines in the town. The entrance to them is about a mile out of the town; inti¬ mation of the visit should be sent the evening before. They may be explored without the necessity of descending any ladders. The best time to see them is between 4 and 8 on Saturday morning, when the fires are first lighted. After that time the mine is closed, and no one enters till Monday morning. The guides receive 15 Sgr. or 10 Sgr, each from a party. Outside of the Broad Gate of Gos¬ lar is a singular isolated rock of sand¬ stone, called the Claus , which has been excavated into a comfortable dwelling; it was once a hermitage and chapel. The distance from Goslar to the top of the Brocken is about 28 m. In going thither we pass Oker at the mouth of the valley of the Oker, one of the most beautiful in the Harz, and N eustadt- Harzburg. At Harzburg a very copious brine¬ spring issues out of the Keuper sand¬ stone and muschelkalk limestone. Railroad from Harzburg to Bruns¬ wick. (Rte. 66.) Near Eckerkrug we pass out of Hanover into Prussia, to Prussia. 413 ROUTE 73. -THE HARZ. THE BROCKEN. Ilsenburg, about 14 m. from Gos- lar.— Inn, Itotho Forelle (Red Trout, for which it is famed). This is a small village 890 Eng. ft. above the sea-level at the mouth of the pretty valley of the Use, up which runs the road to the Brocken. A carriage may be sent round to await the traveller at Schicrko, while the ascent is made in a light car or on mule- back. A carriage holding 4 may be hired from the landlord of the Forelle for 8 dollars, or 10 if it be kept on the sum¬ mit all night. A mule costs 2 dollars. Before setting out for the Brocken it is worth while to mount to the top of the Ilsenstein , a projecting precipice of bare rock, towering above the woods on the 1. side of the valley, surmounted by an iron Cross , erected as a monument of the War. Commodious winding paths lead up to the summit, where a grand prospect over some very wild scenery rewards the climbers. The distance from Ilsenburg to the Brocken, in a direct line, is not more than 6 m. The carriage road is more than twice as much; it passes up the course of the Use, through dark woods occupied by charcoal burners, and amidst masses of rock. The whole way is a series of wild sylvan scenes, recalling to mind the remarkable description of the ascent to it in Gothe’s Faust. The Brockenhaus is the name of the Inn on the platform of bare rock which forms the summit of the Brocken : the accommodations and provisions arc very fair, considering that every ar¬ ticle is carried up on the back of mules a distance of 12 or 15 m. The charges are settled by tariff, according to the Prussian police regulations. The walls are thick, the windows small, and the house is heated by stoves all the year round. The host is very obliging and highly intelligent: he lives here constantly. The Brocken, or Blocksberg (Mons Bructerus), the highest of the ITarz Mountains, is 3700 Eng. ft. above the level of the sea. In a cleft called Sclineeloch, about a mile from the inn, snow lies almost all the year round. The summit and framework, as it were, of the mountain, is granite, round which the other rocks are wrapped, enveloping it like a mantle. It has long enjoyed the reputation of being haunted. The district may indeed be considered the cradle of innumerable superstitions, some of them even now not extinct, of Gnomes and Cobolds, witches, and the headless horseman. Several odd-shaped masses of granite around the summit of the Brocken are named after the witches ; for example, the Devil’s Pulpit, the Witches’ Altar, and, not far off, the Witches’ Lake and Wash-hand Basin . According to the well-known legend, the witches hold their sabbath on this spot once a year, upon the eve of May-day, called in Germany Walpurgisnacht, from the name of a saint who converted the Saxons to Christianity. At this annual conventicle (such is the common belief) all the evil spirits in the world assemble to offer allegiance to their unmention¬ able master, celebrating the festival with unholy orgies. Mortals who are bold enough to venture up during this night have the privilege of beholding their own ghosts on the top of the Brocken, with a billet pinned to their backs bearing the name of those who have wished them there. The curious optical phenomenon called the Spectre of the Brocken , occa¬ sionally seen from this spot, may have contributed to strengthen the belief of its being haunted. It is not very rare, as it occurs usually 8 or 9 times a year, and is not confined to any particular season. It appears at sunset or sun¬ rise, whenever the mists happen to ascend perpendicularly out of the valley on the side opposite to the sun, and leave the mountain top itself free from vapour. The shadow of the mountain is reflected against the perpendicular face of the rising vapour, as it were against a wall, of gigantic dimensions. The inn then becomes a palace in size, and the human beings on the summit appear giants. The size of the figures increases or diminishes as the fog is driven farther from or nearer to the Brocken top by the wind. “ If the fog is very dry, you see not only yourself but your neighbour; if very damp, only yourself, surrounded by a rain- 414 ROUTE 73.—THE HARZ. BLANKENBURG. Sect. V. bow-coloured glory, which becomes more lustrous and beautiful the damper aud thicker the fog is, and the nearer it approaches.”— Howitt. The Panorama from the top of the Brocken is fine, and very extensive when it can be seen , though at the best inferior to that from the Winterberg in the Saxon Switzerland. The ho¬ rizon is rarely quite free of cloud, and nine times out of ten no good view is to be had at sunrise. It is therefore prudent for those who make up their minds to pass a night on the Brocken, in order to see the view, to reach the summit before sunset, so that, if the weather be clear, they may have two chances of seeing something. There is a char-road from the Brock¬ en to Wernigerode {Inns: Weisser Hirsch ; Deutsches Haus; Goldener Lei we), an antiquated town of 6000 Inhab., belonging to Count Stolberg, which suffered from fire in the spring of 1847. Its picturesque timber-houses — e. <]. the Frankenfeldhaus and the Eathhaus in the Market, will delight the eye of an artist, being picturesque and curious. Thence to Elbingerode is a macadamised road. The foot¬ path descends directly to Elbingerode, a distance of about 14 m. It passes through the desolate region of Elend (Misery) by Schierke, a village with 5000 Inhab., at an elevation of 1860 Eng. ft. above the sea. The rocks around it assume singular shapes, and receive the strangest names,—as Hell, the Firestone,theSnorters(Schnarcher). Many of these are mentioned or alluded to in Gothe’s Faust, and it was up this road that Mephistophiles conducted his hero to the top of the Brocken. By broad daylight, however, and in the sunshine, the landscape of which they form part has a merely picturesque character, free from all horrors. Elbingerode.— Inn , Blauer Engel; Bischbieters. Here horses and car¬ riages may be hired for the ascent of the Brocken. This is a Hanoverian town of 2500 Inhab. (1580 Eng. ft. above the sea), “ large, naked, and bleak-looking.” In the vicinity are numerous iron-mines, or rather quarries, for the ore occurs in such large masses that it is quarried out in the open air. It is smelted in the neighbourhood.— N.B, The termination rode , so often occurring in the names of places in the Harz, signifies a spot where roots of trees have been grubbed up. About 2-5 m. below Elbingerode, in the gorge of the Bode, close to the cheerful village of Riibcland ( Inn , Goldener Lowe), are the two Caves of Baumannshohle in the clifis on the 1 . bank, and Bielshohle in the preci¬ pice on the rt. bank opposite. The Baumannshohle has the largest cham¬ bers, and is interesting to the geologist, because bones of the Great Cave Bear, now extinct, have been found in it. The Bielshohle has the finest and whitest stalactites. They are both under the charge of guides residing in the village, who receive about 4 gro- schen from each person for showing them, with something extra for addi¬ tional lights. They are scarcely worth visiting. A band of local musicians is in readiness to awaken the echoes of the Baumannshohle. From Rlibeland (fine limestone rocks in the Bodethal), through a large oak forest in the Schleifergrund, with pic¬ turesque distant views of the plain, on approaching Blankenburg (6 m.) {Lin: Weisser Adler, best in the Harz), a town of 3000 Inhab., belonging to the Duke of Brunswick, who has a Palace here. It is an ungainly building, but the situa¬ tion and view from it are beautiful. The best pictures have been removed, but there still remains one of the White Lady , who haunts this palace as well as that of Berlin, and other royal residences in Germany; and two por¬ traits, painted by the father of Frederick the Great with the point of his finger ! one of our King- William IV. in his midshipman’s dress, and a small col¬ lection of old glass and armour. Louis XVIII. lived here, 1796-98, under the name of Comte de Lille, in perpetual fear of assassination by the French republicans. Omnibus twice a-day to Halberstadt. It takes ^ of an hr. to walk up to the ruined castle of Eeinstein, or Re- Prussia. 415 ROUTE 73 . -ROSSTRAPPE. ALEXISI3AD. gcnstein, built by the Empr. Henry the Fowler 919. It has many chambers excavated in the solid rock. The view hence is admired. There is a refreshment house, with a dining-room, at Reinstein. Blankenburg is but 6 m. distant from the Prussian village of Thale {Inns not good), near the foot of the Rosstrappe. There is a good Inn 1 m. near the Rosstrappe called Hubertus Bad, supplied with warm, sulphur, and saline baths. The Bode is here hemmed in between the Ross¬ trappe on its 1. bank and the Devil’s Tanzplatz (ball-room) on the rt.; two lofty mountains, whose precipitous granite cliffs rising on each side give a character of the utmost grandeur to this gorge or ravine. A steep foot¬ path leads from the river-side to the top of the Rosstrappe. A carriage may ascend half-way, by a circuitous road, as far as the Bude (Boothie, Scotch), a station where refreshments may be had, including a peculiar liquor called Birken Wasser (birch-water), extracted from the birch. The Rosstrappe is a vast precipice of granite, isolated on 3 sides, rising 1380 Eng. ft. above the sea, and 54-0 above the Bode, and projecting over the valley like a bastion. Its sum¬ mit is a platform of rock, 5 or 6 ft. square. Its name comes from a mark in the rock bearing a distant resem¬ blance to a horse’s hoof , and according to the traditional story was caused by a Princess Brunhilde, who, being pur¬ sued by a giant, leaped her horse (which had previously been endowed with supernatural strength) across the gorge to the opposite cliff, where the charger, as he alighted, left the dint of his footmark. The view into the depths below is very grand. A different path leads in zigzags down to the river-side. The defile here displays a scene of the most romantic and gloomy character. It is perhaps the wildest and most interesting spot in the whole district of the Harz. The granite needles remind one of the Alps on a small scale ; the profusion of beautiful wood in the valley of the Bode adds to its attractions ; one fine beech called Ko- nigsbuchc is well worth notice. After threading the gorge, by the water-side, back to the Blechhiitte, some persons ascend by a steep path to the Tanzplatz (1590 Eng. ft. above the sea-level), on the rt. side of the river, from which there is a view not inferior to that from the Rosstrappe, whose gi¬ gantic precipices appear to great ad¬ vantage from hence, 11 challenged from the other side of the narrow rift by many no less wild and lofty crags.” At the extremity of the gorge lies the Bode Kessel , or 'caldron, whence the river boils up, its sides worn and smoothed by the action of the torrent and stones ; a very striking scene. The walk to the Rosstrappe from Thale and back to Blechhiitte takes up 3 or 4 h. In the plain, at a short distance from the foot of the Harz, is the Teufelsmauer, a gigantic natural wall of sandstone lying between Blankenburg- and Quedl inburg. From the Blechhiitte 5 minutes’ walk brings you to the Bahnhof of the Thale Halberstadt Rly. (Inn ; Hotel Zehnpfund). A cross road from Blechhiitte leads to Gernrode, 5 m. off, on the high road from Nordhausen to Magdeburg (Rte. 74). About 9 m. S. of Gern¬ rode, and about 2 to the W. of the post-station of Harzgcrodc, lies the watering-place of Alexisbad , which may be adopted as night-quarters, if the traveller be going S. A good road leads from Gernrode to Ballenstadt (Inn, Stadt Bernburg, good). The Ducal Schloss , on a height, contains a fine collection of pictures. If the traveller be bent on making the entire tour of the Harz, he may proceed from Blankenburg, by Elbingerode, to Andreasberg , at the S. foot of the Brocken, a town of 4100 Inhab., at an elevation of 1900 Eng. ft. above tlie sea, and interesting only to miners and mineralogists. (Inns: Scliiitzenhaus and Rathskeller.) The silver-mines are situated in rocks of clay-slate. The shaft of the Samson mine is 2333 ft. dee}); the tilt-hammers, forges, and water-engines of Andreasberg are all put in motion by the supply of water from the great reservoir under the Brocken, called Oderteich. The dam which retains 416 ROUTE 74. —NORDHAUSEN TO MAGDEBURG. Sect. V. the water is a construction of granite masonry. The distance hence to Clausthal is 16 m. From Ballenstadt a very had road, hut through charming scenery, com¬ parable with that of the Troshachs, leads to Alexisbad. “ A pedestrian should go by the Selkethal, to see the fine old Castle of Falkenstein. The footpath shortens the distance; hut, by going round to Meisdorf, a road prac¬ ticable for light carriages may he fol¬ lowed up the Selkethal.”— G. Alexisbad .— Inns: Das Logirhaus, containing 60 apartments; Das Trai- teurhaus, with about 30. Alexisbad consists of a small group of buildings for the accommodation of visitors, erected in the romantic valley of the Sclke (at an elevation of 1166 Eng. ft. above the sea), by the Duke of Anhalt- Bernburg, after whom it is named. He has a small hunting-box, like a Swiss cottage. Wooded hills rise on each side, and completely hem in the little cluster of houses; and nice paths are cut through the woods in all directions. Besides the buildings enumerated above, there is a bath-house , and a saloon, in which the table-d’hote takes place every day ; also used as a hall-room, with adjoining apartments for gambling, &c. Two mineral springs supply water for the baths, and for drinking. The water is a very strong chalybeate. Most of the resources of a German watering-place (§ 38) are to he found here: but Alexisbad owes its great at¬ traction to its agreeable situation, and the excursions in its neighbourhood, to Magdesprung, Magdetrappe, Kloster- miihle ; the Victorshohe, &c. See the following Boute. ROUTE 74. THE HARZ—NORDHAUSEN TO MAGDEBURG. 14f Pruss. m. = 69 Eng. m. Diligence to Quedlinhiu-g. Rail thence to Halberstadt and Oscherslehen: 4 trains daily. This road nearly forms the E. boundary line of the Harz. Nordhausen is in Rte. 67. 2f Stolberg.— Inns: Weisses Ross; Deutsches Haus. A town of 2000 Inhah. belonging to the Count Stol¬ berg, a mediatised prince, whose terri¬ tory is now included in that of Prussia. His Castle , on the height above, con¬ tains a library, a small armoury, and the statue of an idol (Krodo), dug up under the walls. Thomas Miinzer, the fanatic leader of the rebel peasants in the 16th cent., was horn here, in a house still standing near the market¬ place. From the Josephshohe, 2 m. from Stolberg, in a most picturesque situation, surmounted by a Belvedere and Inn, a fine view is obtained. 2~ Harzgerode.— Inns: Weisses Ross ; Drei Thurme. A town of 2400 Inhah., belonging to the Prince of An- halt-Bernburg. About 2 m. to the west of Harzgerode lies the watering- place of Alexisbad (p. 397), where a traveller, not pressed for time, may spend one or two days very agreeably, in exploring the beauties of its neigh¬ bourhood. About 3 m. N. of Harzgerode our road is joined on the 1. by that from Alexisbad to Magdeburg, and crosses the river Seiko at the iron-works of Magdesprung, consisting of a number of iron forges, furnaces, and miners’ houses scattered along the hanks of the river, over a distance of nearly 2 m. The situation is very romantic, and the distance from hence to Alexisbad is about 3 m. On a neighbouring height a tall obelisk of cast iron has been erected as a monument to a Duke Prussia. 417 ROUTE 74.- of Anhalt. The hill called Magde- trappe (Maid’s foot-print) receives its name from the legend of a giantess who once haunted this district, and, in one of her wanderings, leapt over the valley from the opposite hill, called Rambcrg, leaving the marks of her feet upon the spot where she alighted. In proof of this story, they are still visible in the rock ! The summit commands a fine view. Leaving Magdesprung, the road passes, on the L, the ruined castle of Heinrichburg, built by the Counts of Stolberg. The Schlosskirche here probably dates from 960. Gemrode.—See the Church , a very curious and ancient Romanesque one, with Choirs at both E. and AY. ends, and crypts ; that under the E. choir dates from 960. A curious side chapel is covered with bas-reliefs of the 12th cent. About 5 m. from this place is the Rosstrappe, one of the most in¬ teresting points in the Harz (Rte. 73). A detour from the road of 2 days would suffice to enable a traveller to see it and to ascend the Brocken. The latter part of the excursion is only advisable when the weather is settled. Railway from Thale (Rte. 73) by Ditfurth Stat. to 2J Quedlinburg Stat. (Inns : Deutsches Haus; Schwarzer Bar), a dull coun¬ try town, formerly belonging to Saxony, now Prussian, of 15,700 Inhab., on the Bode. It was originally a free Impe¬ rial city of much consequence. Many German Emperors of the Saxon line resided here in the 13th cent., and several councils of the church were held in the town. It is still sur¬ rounded by turreted walls, and abounds in grand and picturesque old houses. The Castle , on an eminence above the town, was the residence of the Abbesses of Quedlinburg, who were Princesses of the Empire, independent of all spiritual sovereigns save the Pope, having a vote in the Diet and a seat on the bench of Rhenish bishops. They were generally members of royal or noble families. The town itself, many convents and nunneries, and very extensive domains, belonged to the Ab¬ bess, and she numbered among her QUEDLINBURG. vassals many nobles of high rank. At the Reformation the Abbesses adopted the Lutheran faith, lost their feudal sovereignty and the greatest part of their estates, while the number of nuns was reduced to 5. The right of pre¬ sentation belonged to the King of Prussia down to 1802, when the con¬ vent was sequestrated. It is now falling to decay, stripped of its splendour, and in part converted into a school. The Schlosskirche is a very curious basilica, partly of the 10th cent., for, although the upper chinch dates from 1129, the choir from 1320, the lower or crypt is perhaps the original one founded by Henry the Fowler. The arabesques on the outside are con¬ sidered the oldest works of sculpture in N. Germany. The once beautiful Aurora Maria, Countess of Konigs- mark, who was prioress of the nunnery, although mistress of Augustus the Strong, King of Saxony, and mother of Marshal Saxe, is buried in a vault beneath. The sexton does not scruple to open her coffin at the demand of the curious, and to display a body now reduced to the condition of a brown mummy. The Emp. Henry I., the Fow- ler, his Empress Matilda, daughter of Otho I., the founder of the nunnery, and many abbesses of the monastery, are also buried in the lower church or “ Old Minster,” in front of the high altar. Ohs. the Zither in N. transept ; the Sacristy, a wonderful treasury of mediaeval art, well worth notice. It contains MSS. of the Gospels, relic- shrines adorned Avitli bas-reliefs in ivory, silver, niello, and precious stones, one of them said to be the gift of Henry the FOAvler; his ivory comb ; tapestries Avorked by the nuns (Abbess Agnes, 1200) ; a water-jar of travertine, said to be one of the vessels from Cana ! Outside the toAvn, in a farm-yard, are the ruins of the convent of St. Wipertus; the crypt of the Romanesque church, now a barn, may date from the 10th cent. The architect should examine this relic ; the arches of the main aisle are not circular, but straight-sided, like those of the Saxon churches in Eng¬ land, and the chapel at Lorsch. T 3 418 ROUTE 74B.— HAMBURG TO LEIPZIG. Sect. V. The poet Klopstock was born in a small house at the foot of the castle hill, in the Schlossplatz, recognisable by the 2 antique pillars which support its porch. A monument has been erected to him in the garden called Briihl. In the Rathhaus is preserved, among other mnsty curiosities, the oaken cage in which the citizens of Quedlinburg imprisoned a Count of Reinstein in 3 336, for nearly 2 years, on account of numerous acts of tyranny and oppres¬ sive exactions which he had committed against them. Not satisfied with this barbarous punishment, they were on the point of executing him, when the emperor demanded that his life should 1)0 spared, on condition of his paying a fine of 3000 dollars, and adding seven new towers to the town walls. Railway to 2 Ilalherstadt Stat.— Inns: Eisenbahn- Gasthof; Hotel Royal; Prinz Eugen. A very ancient city of 22,800 Inhab., on an arm of the Holzemme. The Dom , on a height approached by flights of steps, is a very remarkable Gothic edifice, chiefly in the pointed style, erected between 1235 and 1491, except the lower part of the west front, which is older (restored 1850). The interior is lofty, and marked by elegant proportions. The bishop’s throne, rich in pointed ornaments, a fine window over the altar, the monument of Margrave Frederick of Brandenburg (1558), the carved work of the Bishop’s throne and roodloft (1508), a store¬ house of late Gothic ornament, the stalls in the choir, old tapestries, and an altarpiece by John Raphon , of Eimbeck, all deserve notice. In the Chapter-house above the cloisters are a carved altarpiece and bronze font. The Treasury is richer than almost any other in North Germany in Gothic art. Obs. an ivory Consular Diptych (4th cent.), a MS. of the Gospels—a gift of Charlemagne. The collection of epis¬ copal and priestly robes, from 12th to 16th cent., is perhaps the finest in N. Europe. The Ch. of Unsere Liebe Frau (Our Lady), in the Byzantine style (date 1005-1147), restored and painted 1850, has a series of bas-reliefs of that age, monuments of bronze, brasses, &c., and some wall paintings which are curious. There are some curiously ornamented old timber-framed houses on the Markt Platz —Rathskeller (1440) and Schuhhof (1580). Near the * Rath¬ haus (Gothic, of various dates) is a Rolandsdule (see Bremen), and opposite is the Bischofshof , now turned into a custom-house. The best view of the town is from the Spiegelsberg , 590 Eng. ft. above the sea. An excursion may be conveniently made from hence to the Rosstrappe, in the Harz. (Rte. 73.) Railway from Halberstadt to Mag¬ deburg, 7~ Germ, m., by Thale Stat. l£ Nicnhagen Stat. 1^ Gr. Oschersleben Stat. For the rest of the line to Magdeburg, see Rte. 66. ROUTE 74 b. HAMBURG TO LEIPZIG, BY MAGDEBURG —RAILWAY. This railway saves the long circuit by Berlin to travellers from Hamburg to Leipzig or Bavaria. It leaves the Hamburg and Berlin Railway at the Wittenberge Station (see Rte. 61), not to be confounded with the Wittenberg of Luther and Hamlet (Rte. 63). Trains reach Magdeburg in about 4 hrs. from Wittenberge. The line immediately crosses the Elbe by a bridge resting on an island; part of it of stone and brick, part on the lattice or suspension principle. Prussia , ROUTE 74 B.—STENDAL. 419 Scehausen Stat. Osterburg Stat. Golbeck Stat. StendalStat. ( Inns: Adler; Schwan.) This ancient town of 6300 Inhab. was formerly a fortress and flourishing Hanse town, capital of the Altmarkt, and residence of the Margraves of Brandenburg. It has several interest¬ ing churches: St. Nicholas , of Pointed Gothic, a good specimen of brickwork of the 15th cent., with coloured win¬ dows executed 1480 ; a roodloft, 1450 ; stalls in the choir, 1430; bas-reliefs of the Passion outside the choir, cloisters, &c. ;— St. Mary's , late Gothic, font, wood screen work, and stalls;— St. Jacob. The Eathhans, an interesting building- in the market-place, late Gothic, has some carved screenwork, and in front stands a Rolandsdule , 1525. See also the town walls , originally of granite, repaired with brick and rich terra-cotta work in the 15th cent;—the Uenglinger Gate , 87 ft. high, with turrets, moulded brick ornaments; — the Tangermtinde Gate, 1460, raised on a much older basis of granite. In the 14-th cent, it contained 20,000 Inhab. Winckclman, the antiquary, was born here 1717 ; d. 1768. Demkcr Stat. Mahlwinkel Stat. Rogatz Stat. Wollmirstadt Stat. Hero are the ruins of an ancient castle, and near here, at Sommereschonburg, is a monument to F. M. Gneisenau, who died 1831. Magdeburg Stat. See Rte. 66. ( 420 ) Sect. VI. SECTION VI. PRUSSIA- ROUTE PAGE 75. Berlin to Stettin , Railway— Stettin to Danzig, Road . 420 76. Stettin to Stralsund , ancl the Island of Riigen—the Baths of Putbus .423 77. Berlin to Danzig or Posen, by Frankfurt on the Oder— Rail. :.426 78. Danzig to Konigsberg , by Marienburg —Rail. . . . 429 79. Konigsberg to Memel, by Tilsit 433 80. Stettin to Danzig, by Brom¬ berg ; to Posen and Breslau —Railway .434 81. Berlin to Frankfurt on the Oder and Breslau — Railway . 436 82. Dresden to Breslau— Rail. . 439 - continued. ROUTE PAGE 83. The Riesengebirge — Bunz- lau to Hirschberg , Warm- brunn , Schmiedeberg , and Landeshut. Excursion to Adersbach .441 84. The Riesengebirge — Bres¬ lau to Schweidnitz , Landes¬ hut, Adersbach, and by Trautenau to Prague in Bo¬ hemia . .446 84 a. Dresden to Zittau and Reichenberg, by Hermhut 448 85. Breslau to Glatz and Prague, by the Heuschcuer . . . 449 85 a. Breslau to Oracoio — Rail¬ way .450 85 b. Breslau to Vienna —Railway 451 ROUTE 75. BERLIN TO STETTIN—RAILWAY; STET¬ TIN TO DANZIG—ROAD. Railroad to Stettin, 18 Germ. m. = 85 Eng. m. 2 trains daily in 4A hrs. Terminus outside the Oranienburg Gate. The line makes a bend at first, passing the village of Louisenbrunnen, Pankow, &c., to 3 Bernau Stat., a town whose inhab. defended themselves stoutly against the Hussites 1432, and captured some of their armour, still preserved in the Rathhaus. 3 Aeustadt-Eberswalde Stat.— Inns: II. de Prussc; Sonne. A manufac¬ turing town, of 3500 Inhab., on the Finow canal, which connects the Oder with the Havel. There are very ex¬ tensive paper-mills near this. 2 Germ, m. E. of this lies Freyenwalde, a water¬ ing-place on the Oder. (Inns: Konig v. Proussen; Adler.) In the next stage the Finow canal is crossed, and (rt.) the sequestered Cis¬ tercian Abbey Chorin, a good specimen of A. German Gothic, in tolerable pre¬ servation, now a tavern, and several small lakes, (Paarsteiner See), are passed. 3 Angenniinde Junct. Stat., a very old town, with an old high church; 3000 Inhab. Here branches 1. rail to Anclam and Stralsund (Rte. 76). [2-| Germ. m. from this, on the Oder, lies Schwedt—(Z'ww: Deutsches Haus) —a town of 4600 Inhab. : many of them are descendants of French emigrants, and a portion are Jews. The Palace was originally the residence of a branch of the family of Margraves of Branden¬ burg, now extinct. Their summer palace Montplaisir lies at the termination of an Prussia. 421 ROUTE 75. —STETTIN. SWINEMUNDE. avenue 2 m. from the town. One of the Margraves and his wife are buried in granite coffins in the French Ch. ] 3 Passow Stat. Schnellpost to Stral- sund (Rte. 76). Germ. m. NAY. of Passow is Prenzlow (Inns. H. de Prusse; Deuts¬ ches Ilaus), on the N. end of the Lake called Ucker See, a town of 13,000 In- hab., formerly capital of the Uckermark. The Marienkirche (1325-40) is one of the most remarkable brick buildings of N. Germany. Ohs. the E. gable of open tracery formed of clay baked and glazed. The organ is said to rival that of Haarlem.] 3 Tantow Stat. The railway is car¬ ried partly on embankments along the valleys of the Pandow and lYclse. On the rt. views are obtained of the lake of Damn , formed by the Oder spreading out into a broad sheet of water behind it. The railway is carried through the fortifications to reach the terminus at 3 Stettin Stat. ( Inns: H. de Prusse, in the Louisen Strasse; Drei Kronen), a flourishing town, where there is little to see; it is the capital of Pomerania, upon the bank of the Oder, but con¬ nected by 4 bridges within the suburb Lastadie on the rt. bank. It has 65,000 Inhab., excluding the garrison, and is remarkable as a strong fortress and the first commercial port of Prussia, being the outlet for the manufactures of Silesia conveyed down the Oder from Frankfurt and Breslau, and the depot for foreign goods required to supply that province as well as the metropolis of Prussia. The value of the annual imports and exports is 11,000,000/. About 2000 vessels enter the port yearly, and 200 belong to it. The Schloss Kirclie contains the tombs of the old Dukes of Pomerania, a carved wooden monument of Duke Bogislaus. The Schloss , built 1577, official resi¬ dence of the Ober-President of Po¬ merania, and in part converted into government offices, was the residence of the Dukes of Pomerania, who died out 1637. At the Peace of Westphalia Stettin was given over to Sweden, and by that of Stockholm, 1720, transferred to Prussia. Fine view from the Trap- penthurm of the Schloss. The Rathhaus dates from 1245. In the Konigsplatz is a marble statue of Frederick the Great , by Schadow. Since 1854 a new town (Neustadt) has sprung up within the fortifications, with fine broad streets, containing several handsome public buildings : the Artillery Barracks , a Prison, and Johanneskloster (a kind of almshouse^, the Friedrich Wilhelm's School. Two Empresses of Bussia were born here—Catherine the Great (1729), and Maria Feodorowna, wife of the Empr. Paul (1759). There is a hand¬ some new Borse and a Theatre here. The best view of the town is from the Militair-Friedhof , not far from the Ely. Stat. An English Consul resides at Stettin. The Oder, after flowing past Stettin, in four branches, discharges itself into a large lake called the Haff: this again communicates with the Baltic by 3 mouths, which form the 2 large islands, Usedom, on which lies Swinemundo, and Wollin. Schnellpost to Danzig;—to Stralsund. Steamers once a week to Copenhagen in 24 hrs.;—twice a-week to Stralsund by Swincmiinde and to Putbus in Biigen (Itte. 76) ; — to Ystad in Sweden. Steamers daily in summer, in 4 hrs. to Svoinemunde.—Inns : Olthoffs; Kron Prinz. This town, of 3500 Inhab., has latterly acquired importance from the improvements made in its harbour, which have rendered it the outport of Stettin. The entrance to it is unluckily very shallow, but extensive moles and works have been erected, and dredging machines are constantly employed in deepening the bed of the Oder to re¬ medy this defect, and it is now capable of admitting vessels drawing 18 or 19 ft. water to unload their cargoes, and in seeming a depth of 12 to 16 ft. even up as far as Stettin. Swinemundo stands on the shores of the Baltic, upon an island between it and the salt lake called Stettiner Half, separated from the main land by the Swine and other mouths or channels through which tbc Oder empties itself into the sea. 422 Sect. VI. ROUTE 75. —STETTIN TO DANZIG. About 1 ^ m. from the town, and separated from it by a wood, lie the Sea Baths of Swinemiinde, consisting of a Bath-house and an Assembly-room (Gesellschaftshaus), in which there is a daily tablo-d’hotc, dinner at one. Visitors usually lodge at the inns in the town. Distinct spots, separated by consider¬ able intervals, are marked out on the sea-shore as bathing-places for ladies and gentlemen. At the one extremity men are allowed to bathe without bath¬ ing-machines or covered cabinets; at the opposite end the females enjoy the same privileges; and between these re¬ mote spots are ranged bathing-machines for either sex. At a very early period, the Vends (Wendeii), a Slavonic tribe occupying the whole of the southern coast of the Baltic from the Elbe to Esthonia, had a seaport called Julin (Jumneta) in the island ofWollin, at the mouth of the Oder. It is described by chroniclers as the greatest commercial city of Europe in the 11th cent. Near it was Jomsburg, the stronghold of Palnatoki, a celebrated Scandinavian sea-rover and chief of a kind of piratical republic which he founded here at the latter end of the lOtli cent. From the hill called Streckelberg, about 14 m. N.W. of Swinemiinde, there is a very fine view. It was upon this island of Usedom, June 24, 1630, that the Champion of Protestantism, Gustavus Adolphus, landed with an army of 17,000 Swedes. As soon as he reached the shore, he fell on his knees, and, after a short prayer in sight of his soldiers, directed them to entrench themselves, seizing a spade with his own hand to show them the example. When tidings of this event were brought to the Emperor Ferdinand, he made light of the mat¬ ter, sarcastically terming the Swedish leader “ a snow-king, who would melt as the summer drew near, and as he advanced towards a more southern climate.” The following year 6000 English volunteers (amongst v'hom must have been Dugald Dalgetty) arrived on this spot to reinforce Gustavus. Stettin to Danzig. Those who travel by the rly. from Stettin to Danzig (trains in about 4 hrs. to Koslin) must proceed along the rly. to Posen, crossing the low lands formed by the deposits of the branches of the Oder, by Dainm Stat., a fortress; Carolinenhorst Stat.; to Stargard Junct. Stat. (Dm, Prinz von Preussen), chief town of Further Pomerania (Pop. 16,000), on the Ihna, surrounded by old w r alls. It has a very fine ch., the Marienkirche , Gothic of 14th and 15tli centy., and a Rathhaus of 16th centy. Here the Pomeranian Rly. turns E. by Freienwalde, Lubes, Schicvelbein. Belgard Janet. Stat. [Hence a branch line diverges to Colberg or Kolberg (Inn, Konig von Preussen), a fortress bravely defended against the French in 1806-7, close to the sea. The modern Rathhaus, built by Zwirner, the restorer of the Dom of Cologne, and the Marienkirche, a 5-aisled church of 14th cent., Gothic, with its roodloft, bronze 7-branched candelabrum (1327), its font, a basin borne on the backs of 4 lions, and surrounded by reliefs, and chandelier of richly carved wood (1523), the roof covered with paintings, merit notice.] 3 - | Koslin Stat. (Inn: Diirre’s II.), 4 m. from the Baltic, the largest town on the road. Pop. 10,000. Koslin to Danzig, post-road, 26-^ Germ. m. Schnellpost daily in 22 hrs. 21 Pankenin. 2^ Schlaw r e. 3£ Stolpc. Inns: Muller’s; Mundt’s. (1500 Inliab.) In the Schlosskirche is a marble monument to the Duchess Anne de Croy, and her son (1781). 3^ Poganitz. 3^ Lauenburg. (H. dc Prusse.) 2 Klein- Ankcrholz. 2Jr Neustadt. Adlerhorst , wooded promontory. 3| Katz, on the Baltic J shore. Convent of Oliva. > in Etc. 80. 24 Danzig. ) Prussia. 423 ROUTE 76. —STETTIN TO STRALSUND. ROUTE 76. STETTIN TO STRALSUND AND THE ISLAND OF RuGEN—THE BATHS OF PUTBUS. Riigen, the largest island belonging to Germany, is situated in tlie Baltic, sepa¬ rated only by the narrow strait of Gel- len, or Strela-sund from Prussian Pome¬ rania, in which province it is included. It abounds in romantic scenery, on ac¬ count of which, and of the advantages of sea-bathing which it affords, it is frequented in summer by visitors from all parts of Northern Germany. It may be termed a German Isle of Wight, and indeed bears some resemblance to the English island in the conforma¬ tion of its lofty clialk-cliffs, though it is better wooded, and is further dis¬ tinguished by the narrow bays or bights which penetrate far inland. Steamers from Stettin to Swinemiinde daily in 4 hrs.; —in summer from Swine- miinde to Putbus, in 5 to 6 hrs., 3 or 4 times a week. The steamer, on quit¬ ting Swinemiinde, enters the open sea between stone dams raised upon fas¬ cines, extending, in a direct line, 4000 ft. into the sea; constructed in 1849. Railway to Stralsund, 2 trains daily, by Loclmitz Stat. Pasewalk Stat. An old town, retain¬ ing its walls, towers, and gates. The Marienkirche is of brick. Passing the fine Rothmuller Wald, to Anclam Stat. (Inns: Goldenc Traubc, good; Bohmer’s Hotel), a small port of 11,000 Inliab., on the Peine. The Stein Thor is a picturesque gate tower of brick, and a group of houses in the square are good specimens of the peculiar style of the Hanseatic architecture. The churches , St. Mary and St. Nicholas, also brick, are large and curious. Greifswald Stat. (Inn: Deutsches Haus), a venerable seaport town of 15,700 Inhab., founded in the 13th cent., has the streets set at right angles, and many brick houses ; three in the great square or markt-platz are the best examples of the 14tli and 15th | cents. The churches also merit notice, j especially the Marienkirche. The Uni- | versity, founded 1456, numbers about 200 students. There are 2 Ferries across the Strait separating Riigen from the mainland:— 1st. From Stahlbrode, about 12 m. W. of Greifswald, called Glewitzer Fdhre. At Glewitz, the landing-place (2| Germ, m.), conveyances may usually be hired to Putbus, 2| Germ, m., by Garz. 2nd. From Stralsund by the Alte Fdhre, a shorter and safer passage in stormy weather, the strait not being more than a mile broad here; the other ferry is 2 m. Stralsund Stat. (Inns, Lowe (Lion), in the Alt Markt; II. de Brandeburg), an interesting and nearly unaltered town and fortress, 24,300 Inhab., was, in the 14th cent., a chief town of the Hansa ; in 1648, by the peace of Yfest- phalia, it became capital of Swedish Pomerania. It was ceded to Prussia in 1815. It is entirely surrounded by water, and approachable from the S. only by 3 bridges, connecting it with the Knieper-, Triebsee-, and Franken-Suburbs. The Strela-sund, a strait 2 m. broad, separates Stralsund from the isle of Riigen. About a gun¬ shot from the shore is the circular island Danliolm, occupied by fishermen and sailors, reminding one of Holland by its clean houses, gardens, &c. The Nicolai Kirche (1311), and the Marien Kirche (15th cent-.), both of brick, are handsome edifices, in the style of the churches of Ltibeck. In St. Nicolas, obs. a fine brass of the Proconsul Albert Hovener (1357), a richly carved altarpiece enclosing a painting of the Crucifixion, and the monument of ZacheryRotmann (1673). The lofty tower of the Jacobikirche is one of the best preserved bits of brick architecture on the Baltic. The 424 ROUTE 76. — STRALSUND. PUTBUS. Sect. VI. view from the towers is remarkable. The Rathhaus , a fine edifice surmounted by 7 pinnacles, was built 1316, but has suffered much from modern restora¬ tions. Near the Frankcnthor, built into a wall, is shown the stone on which the indefatigable Charles XII. was found, by the sentinel on duty outside the walls, fast asleep, before the gate, on his return from Bender. SchiU, the brave but imprudent soldier who took up arms in 1808, in the hope of freeing Germany from the French, was shot in attempting a sortie, in the Fahrstrasse: a stone in the pavement marks the spot. The public fountain is named after him, Schills- brunnen. A simple plate of iron, with¬ out his name, bearing the inscription “ Magna voluisse magnum,” marks the spot, in the Dnieper Burial-ground, where the remains of that brave soldier, robbed of the head, are interred. The head, long preserved in spirits at Leyden, has been removed to Brunswick. The Johannishof was once a Beguin- age like those at Bruges and Ghent; it is now a hospital for poor persons. Dining the Thirty Years’ War (1628) Stralsund was the place which first checked the career of the previously ir¬ resistible Wallenstein. He had sworn to take Stralsund, “ even though it were fastened by chains to heaven,” vowing vengeance upon the child unborn when he should gain possession. This impi¬ ous boast, however, was not destined to be fulfilled, for through the brave de¬ fence of its citizens, aided by a party of Scotch mercenaries in the pay of Den¬ mark, he was at last compelled to raise the siege, after a loss of 12,000 men be¬ fore its walls. In 1715 the town was besieged by the allied army of the Prus¬ sians, Danes, and Saxons. Charles XII., then recently escaped from Turkey, con¬ ducted the defence for a considerable time. At length he was obliged to retire, and the town surrendered to Denmark. Steamers to Ystad and Stockholm twice a week, in 8 or 10 hrs. {Handbook for Denmark.) Bail to Berlin and Stettin ; Eilwagen to Bostock. In going from Stralsund to Putbus the Old Ferry is crossed. 2| Garz. Busch’s Inn. 1-j; Putbus — Inns: Fiirstenhof, best; Bellevue; Hotel du Nord, nearer the sea, good and not dear. A bed-room costs 20 Sgr.; dinner, 12^ Sgr. Putbus is a watering-place with 700 permanent Inhab., belonging to the Prince of Put¬ bus, a very wealthy nobleman, said to be the lineal descendant of the ancient Kings of Biigen. His Palace (Schloss) is a handsome Italian edifice, and the principal building in the place. It con¬ tains a chapel (date 1583), library, some good paintings and statues (3 by Thonoaldsen ), and a collection of anti¬ quities found in the island. Adjoining the Palace is the Eursaal or dining¬ room, where there is a daily table- d’hote, and the Pavilion , containing assembly and music rooms for the use of the visitors ; and the Theatre. At¬ tached to the palace is a Park , with gardens and pleasure - grounds open to the public. As a watering-place, Putbus has fallen off since the death of the late Prince. A mile from Putbus, on the sea-shore, is the Badhaus , supplied with warm sea- baths. It furnishes board and lodg¬ ings at moderate rates. There are also bathing-machines for those who prefer the open sea. The season is over by the middle of September, when the baths are shut up. The great attraction of Putbus is its beautiful situation near the borders of a bay with the island Vilm in front. High wooded banks and long indented promontories shelter it from the Baltic. On one of these is a statue of the Great Elector, who drove the Swedes out of Biigen, 1678. Putbus is the best head-quarters for those who intend to explore the island. All charges are fixed by printed tariff. The Prince’s agent lets out horses and carriages for hire. The Steamer from Swinemiinde lands its passengers on the boat-pier at Lau- terbach, 2 m. from the Baths. Passen¬ gers arriving by the boat, and intend¬ ing to return by it, had better hire for 1 or 2 days one of the carriages waiting on the spot, set out at once on the ex¬ cursion round the island, and leave Putbus till their return. Prussia. ROUTE 76.-RUGEJST. STUBBENKAMMER. 425 The most interesting objects in Eiigen are Stubbenkammer and Arkona, nearly 18 m. apart, and the same distance from Putbus, and the country between them is comparatively tame. The following sketch of a tour round the Island includes all the most remark¬ able objects, starting from Putbus to the 1 ^ Jagdschloss ( Inn in summer), a handsome hunting-lodge built by Scliin- kcl for Prince Putbus, commanding a delightful view. Thence over the hills called Prora, on the narrow isthmus called the schmale Heide, which unites the promontory Jasmund to the main island—to Sagard — Inn, Fiirstenkrone. Near this is the Tumulus of Dubberworth, 30 ft. high. The N. extremity of the island Rii- gen consists of a long narrow peninsula, or rather of 2 peninsulas—that of Jas¬ mund, and beyond it that of AYittow— connected with each other and the main island by 2 narrow necks of land. The length of this united promontory is about 25 m. The bay or firth which it encloses is crossed by one or two ferries, at which carriages and foot passengers can be transferred from one side to the other, thus avoiding the necessity of retracing the same road in returning from Arkona. Beyond Sagard the road enters the ancient beech wood of Stubbenitz. Here the goddess Hertha was worshipped by the Pagan Saxons; within it is the Herthaburg, a rampart of earth 50 ft. high. It abounds in stone sepulchres, called Hunengraber, in which skele¬ tons and jars full of bones and ashes have been found. The whole district is likewise celebrated in Scandinavian, poetry and mythology. Buried in the recesses of this mysterious grove lies the Hertha See, called the Black Lake , from the dark shadows of the beech woods around. Tacitus (Germ. c. 40) describes an untrodden wood (castum nemus) in which the car of the goddess Hertha was kept, drawn by cows and washed in a secret lake. It is still looked upon with veneration by the inhabitants. It is about 300 paces long, and 48 ft. deep in the centre. These localities, and various ancient remains existing upon the island, such as tumuli and cromlechs, possess additional interest, if we regard them as the relics of a nation by whom Rome was overthrown after an existence of 12 centuries. Odoacer, who finally captured the Imperial city, was king of the Riigii, and the cradle of the barbarian hordes who formed his army was this remote and insignificant island, and the neighbouring coast of Pomerania. Less than a mile from the Hertha See and the wood of Stubbenitz, is the foreland of the Stubbenkammer , a chalk cliff, 440 ft. high, rising out of the sea, somewhat like Shakspeare’s Cliff at Dover. A large Inn , wfith 80 beds, has been built at Stubbenkammer, on the verge of the forest. A staircase of 600 steps cut in the rock leads from the shore to the highest summit , called Konigsstuhl. Hither travellers repair to see the sun rise and set, and to enjoy the view. On the AY. the promontory of Arkona, the most northern point of Rligen, stretches far out into the sea. The grandest view of the cliff is from below. The Stubbenkammer is about 18 m. from Putbus, and 15 m. from Bergen. At Quoltitz is the Stone of Sacrifice, a rude block traversed by a groove or channel, to collect, it is conjectured, the blood of human victims. Spieker, a country-seat of Prince Putbus, is a fanciful castle, built by Baron AYr angel, after the Thirty Years’ AYar. The way from Stubbenkammer to Arkona lies along another narrow tongue of land, called Die Schabe, which unites the promontory Jasmund to that of AYittow. At the village of Altenkirchen (Haas’s Inn), the poet Kosegarten, who was its pastor, is buried. For 8 successive Sundays, during the season of the herring fishery, the minister preaches upon the shore to the fishermen assembled around him in their boats, from the neighbouring is¬ lands. A figure, said to be of the idol Swantewit, is built into the wall of the Church , of 12th cent., one of the oldest in Pomerania. 4 Arkona , the most northern promon¬ tory of the island, partly a chalk cliff, 426 ROUTE 77. —BERLIN TO DANZIG OR TOSEN. Sect. VI. 173 ft. above the sea, is surmounted by a lighthouse, which furnishes accom¬ modation to travellers. The view from it extends over the coast of the promontory Jasmund to the island Hiddensoe, and to the more distant Danish island Moen. Upon Arkona stood the ancient For¬ tress of the Vends, who at one period inhabited this island, called Burgring. It was a circular entrenchment, from 30 to 40 yards high, with an opening to the N.W. Within it stood the temple of the 4-headed god Swantevit, destroy¬ ed by the Danes under King Waldemar, ■who took it by storm 1168, earned off its treasures to Denmark, and introduced Christianity into the island. Saxo Grammaticus, the historian, was present at the capture. Travellers must now cither return by Altenkirchen and Wiek to the Wittow Ferry, and, after crossing it, proceed direct to Otj Bergen, or they may prolong their tour by taking boat and making an ex¬ cursion to the neighbouring island Hid¬ densoe, whose inhabitants, a poor and primitive race, not much raised above the condition of Esquimaux, live chiefly in turf-covered huts, and support them¬ selves by fishing. Many of them spend their whole lives on the spot, and never set foot even on Bfigen. There is not a bush on the whole island. For fuel the people have recourse to peat or cow- dung ; yet, with so few attractions, the island is said to be dear to its children, who call it “ dat sotelanne,” the sweet little land. Bercjen (Inns : Prinz von Preusscn; Adler) is the chief town in Riigen, and has 3500 Inhab. To the N. of it rises the hill of Rugard, the highest in Riigen, surmounted by the ruins of the ancient, fortress, destroyed 1316. From this spot the whole island, with its deeply indented shores, may be surveyed as a map laid open at the spectator’s feet. The distance hence to Stralsund is about 16m., including the ferry. Schnell- post twice a-day. From Bergen to Putbus is 6 m. Plan for ah excursion of 1 day round Riigen, starting from Putbus: to the Jagdschloss, Sclimaeler See, Prora, and the Schanzenberg, by Lankcn and the new wood-road to Stubbenkammer— return by Sagard, the Jasmund ferry, and Bergen, to Putbus. Distance about 45 m. ROUTE 77. BERLIN TO DANZIG OR POSEN, BY FRANKFURT ON THE ODER.—RAIL. 270 Eng. m. Eastern Railway (Ost- bahn); 2 trains daily, in 85 hrs. (ex¬ press 1\ hrs.) to Posen; 12 hrs. to Danzig. The route, as far as Frankfurt on the Oder Junct. Stat. is described Rte. 81. The country is uninteresting. Podelzig Stat. Ciistrin Stat. ( Inns: Kron Prinz; Adler). A strong fortress and town of 4700 Inhab., surrounded by marshes, at the junction of the Warthe with the Oder, over which a bridge 875 ft. long is thrown. Frederick the Great was confined in the old castle by his imperious and crazy father, and com¬ pelled to look on while his friend Katte was executed on the ramparts. 6 m. N. of Kiistrin is the village of Zorndorf , where Frederick the Great, with 30,000 Prussians, defeated 50,000 Russians, under Fermor, in 1758. A monument marks the spot where the king stood. The road runs nearly parallel with the Warthe. Landsberg Stat. Inns: Konig v. Preusscn; Balmhof Rest. A flourishing small town, of 16,800 Inhab. Driesen Stat. Kreutz Junct. Stat. Buffet. Here the Rly. from Stettin to Posen and Breslau Prussia. ROUTE 77. —DANZIG. CATHEDRAL. 427 (Ete. 80) crosses that from Berlin to Danzig and Konigsberg. Filehne Stat. Schonlanke Stat., on the river Netze. Schneidemuhl Stat. (Inn: Goldcner Lowe.) Miasteckzo Stat., through sand hills and fir woods. Bialoslime Stat. Ossiek Stat. ("Wirsitz is near this). 3~ Nakel Stat.— Inn, the Post. A town of 2000 Inhab. on the Netze. 4 Bromberg Junct. Stat.—Inns : H. Moritz ; Eios H. A town of 22,500 Inhab., on the Brahe, without interest to the traveller. It owes its prosperity to the canal made by Frederick the Great, to whom a statue is erected. [From Bromberg a Ely. runs to War¬ saw by Thorn, 31 m. S. E., on the Vis¬ tula, the birthplace of Copernicus, to whom a bronze statue was erected 1853.] The railway to Danzic is car¬ ried down the valley of the Vistula, but at some distance from it, through places of slight importance. Kotomiers Stat. Terespol Stat. [Near this is the ancient town of Schwetz, containing an old Ch., a lofty watch-tower, and the modern lunatic asylum for W. Prussia—a vast edifice.] Laskowice ) Warlubin I Stats, in the valley Czerwinsk ( of the Vistula. Pelplin J [On the rt. bank of the Vistula lie Culm ( Inn : Schwarzer Adler) a town of 5600 Inhab. (truffles abound here), and the strong fortress of Graudenz, with 9000 Inhab. It was not yielded up to the French.] 4 Dirschau Junction Stat. Inn: Kronprinz. Here the branch line to Danzig diverges 1. out of the rly. to Marienburg and Konigsberg. (Etc. 78.) Crossing ditches and walls of the fortifications, you reach 4i Danzig Terminus , on the Spoicher- Insel, near the Lege Thor. Danzig (in Polish, Gdansk). Inns (none very good): Englisches Haus, the old ITall of the English Merchants of the Staple, best; H. do Berlin, near the Ely.; II. de Thorn. Danzig, one of the oldest cities in Prussia, u the Nu¬ remberg of the North,” abounding in picturesque old buildings, is situated near the 1. bank of the W. arm of the Vistula, or Weichsel, about 5 m. above its influx into the sea. It is tra¬ versed by 2 tributaries of that river, the Motlau and Eadauno, and has 82,765 Inhab. (13,500 Eom. Cath.). It is a fortress of the first class, and the principal seaport of Prussia. It was anciently a leading member of the Han¬ seatic League, and a free city. It is still a place of great commerce, espe¬ cially in wheat brought down the Vis¬ tula from Poland, and other corn-pro¬ ducing countries, and shipped from hence to all parts of Europe. The exports of wheat are greater than from any other port in the world. Here are extensive distilleries of brandy, which hence gets the name of Danzig. The granaries, of enormous dimensions, capable of hold¬ ing 500,000 quarters of corn, are situ¬ ated on an island called Speicher Insel. To avoid the risk of conflagration, no lights or fire are ever admitted. The timber trade is also very con¬ siderable. The great depot for it is in the Langgarten , to the E. of the Speicher Insel. Amber is exported chiefly hence. The * Cathedral (or Marienkirche), begun in 1343, by a grand master of the Teutonic knights, but not finished till 1503, is one of the finest churches on the Baltic; it is of brick, and 358 ft. long. The vaulted roof, sup¬ ported by 26 slender brick pillars, is 98 ft. above the pavement. Around the interior are 50 chapels, originally found¬ ed by the chief citizens as burial-places for themselves and their families. It possesses a brass font, cast in 1554, in the Netherlands, and an astronomical clock, which has long ceased to move. The great ornament of the Dom is the celebrated Last Judgment, attri¬ buted to J. Mending (see Kugler, § xvii., note by Sir E. Head); the inside by Memling; the exterior portraits by van der Goes, a pupil of Van Eyck, known as the Danzig Picture. It was painted, according to tradition, for the Pope, and while on its way from Bruges to Home was intercepted by pirates, but was retaken by a Danzig vessel and 428 ROUTE 77. —DANZIG. LANGGASSE. HISTORY. Sect. VI. deposited in the Cathedral, where it remained till 1807, when the French transported it to Paris. “ On its re¬ turn, after the war, the King of Prussia was very anxious to retain it at Berlin, and offered 40,000 dollars as a com¬ pensation, hut yielded to the press¬ ing instances of the rightful owners for its restoration.” The picture hears about it the date 1467. A cru¬ cifix , carved on wood in a very ad¬ mirable style of art, and with great truth of expression, is the second curi¬ osity of this ch. It has been here since the middle of the 15th cent., but the artist’s name is unknown. Three mo¬ dern painted windows were given by the King of Prussia, 1843-45. In a side chapel the poet Martin Opitz is buried (d. 1639). The Ch. of St. Katherine has chimes in its steeple. Trinity Church , of red brick, has a richly ornamented gable, date 1514, which merits attention. The glory of Danzig is the Langgasse; the principal street, intersecting it from E. to W., and prolonged into the Lange Markt, or Long Market , which abounds in antique buildings of splendid and fantastic architecture, mostly from the 16th to 18th cents., many of the carv¬ ings and ornaments having been brought from Venice and Portugal. At its W. end rises the Hohe Thor, a stately brick tower, built 1588, as an entrance into the town, with an additional gate at one side (date 1612). At theE. end the street terminates with the Griine Thor, leading to a quay enlivened with booths, groups of sailors, &c., the busiest scene in Danzig. The most consider¬ able building in the Langemarkt is the *Bathhaus, erected in the 14th cent., with a slim and elegant tower, added 1556. See the interior—the Rerater and Picture Gallery. Not far from it is a Fountain , with figures of Neptune drawn by sea-horses, probably by some Augsburg artist of the 17 th cent.—very good as a work of art. Behind it stands the *Artus, or Junker Hof [the chief mer¬ chants in the middle ages were here styled Junkers), erected about the middle of the 16th cent. On the facade (altered in recent times) are medallion heads of the Ernpr. Charles V. and Don John of Austria, above allegorical figures. In its great hall, now the Exchange , the vaulted roof of which is supported by 4 slender pillars of granite, the guilds and corporations formerly met. Their laws, in rhyme, are still hung up in it; and its walls are further decorated with the most singular carvings, old armour, and pictures; one is a representation of the Church under the form of a ship, sailing to heaven full of monks, who are throwing out ropes, hooks, &c., to haul on board a few miserable sinners. O&s.Actceon and his dogs, a combination of painting, relief, and stags’ horns ! Procession of knights and soldiers on the march; also 2 pictures by Danzig artists, a Last Judgment, by A. Muller , a pupil of Baphael, 1601, and a Ma¬ donna and Christ, by Andreas Stech . In the Raths-keller , under the Artus Hof, is a restaurant. There is a theatre. A British consul resides here. One quarter of the town is called Schott- land, from a colony of Scotch weavers who settled here in the 14th cent. By means of the gigantic sluice-gates (Stein Schleuse), near the Ply. Stat., the country around three sides of the town can be laid under water, so as to contri¬ bute materially to its defence from an hostile attack. The key of the position is the Holm, an island formed by 2 arms of the Vistula, N. of the town. There are besides strong external forts, the Hagelsberg and the Bischofsbcrg; the last has been greatly strengthened, and completely commands the town on the W. side. Fahrenheit the optician, who invented the thermometer named after him, was born here. History. —When the rule of the Teu¬ tonic Order ceased in the 15th cent., Danzig became a free city, 1454, under the protection of the Kings of Poland. From the 2nd partition of Poland (1793) to the Peace of Tilsit the city fell under Prussian rule. Marshal Lefebvre, Na¬ poleon’s general, was created by him Duke of Danzig, in consequence of his having taken the town in 1807. At the peace of Paris it was yielded back to Prussia. 429 ROUTE 78. —DANZIG TO IvONIGSBERG. the Prussians after an obstinate resist¬ ance, maintained by the French under General Rapp for many months, in 1813, until the town was reduced, by famine and pestilence, to the lowest depth of distress. Amber-ware may be purchased of Hoffman, 32, Johanncsgasse, and C. W. v. Roy, Breites Thor, 4. The port of Danzig is Neufahrwasser , at the mouth of the W. arm of the Vistula. In 1841 an Ice-burst on the Vistula forced a new passage for the river to the sea near Neufahr. It is defended by the fort, Weichselmunde; has a lighthouse and an extensive pier at the entrance of the channel. Steam¬ boats thither every hour, daily, except Sundays. Schnellposts to Coslin. Railways —to Stettin, by Stargard ; to Berlin, by Bromberg; to Konigs- berg. Rte. 78. Excursions .—An avenue leads from the Olivacr-Thor, in 2J m. N.W., to the Johannisberg , from whose top, 311 ft. above the sea, is a very fine view over Danzig, the Baltic, the tongue of land called TIela, at whose extremity rises the lighthouse. 3 m. further, at the foot of the Carlsberg (which also com¬ mands a fine view), stands the Convent of Oliva (suppressed in 1829.) The Church is a stately edifice (date 1581). Around the choir hang portraits of 6 Kings of Poland and 5 of Didees of Po¬ merania. The refectory is supported by 3 granite pillars. In the Friedenssaal, near the cloisters the treaty of peace betw r cen Sweden and Poland was signed 1G60. The Abbot’s Castle now belongs to the Queen of Prussia, and has fine grounds. The sandy downs are clothed with rich beech woods. ROUTE 78. DANZIG TO KoNIGSBERG, BY MARIEN- BURG—RAILWAY. 24 Pruss. m. = 113j Eng. m. Railwayhcgun 1855, finished by com¬ pletion of the Vistula bridges, 1857. Praust St at. Ilohenstein Stat. See Rte. 77 for 4| Dirschau Junct. Stat. It is a place of modern growth, owing its origin to its position at a ferry over the W. arm of the Vistula, which was formerly very diffi¬ cult and dangerous to pass in winter. The bridge of boats, which afforded a passage in summer, is replaced by a sub- stantial Railway Bridge on the suspension principle, one of the finest of the kind in Europe, in length 2500 ft., in breadth 63 ft. It rests on 6 piers, 4 of them in the river, each strongly protected against the ice, supporting iron lattice arches each of 397 ft. span. The cost exceeded 500,000/. Embankments tra¬ verse the fertile triangular plain, or Delta, deposited by the river, which is bounded at the further extremity by the E. arm, called Nogat, now bridged likewise by the Rly., on 2 lattice spans of 321 ft., and one of 53 ft. The country between these rivers lies below the level of the Baltic, and is protected from inundations solely by dykes and windmills, as is the case in Holland. On the rt. bank of the Nogat stands 2^ Marienburg Stat. {Inns: Konig v. Preussen; Hochmeistcr), an ancient town of 5400 Inhab., on the Nogat, chiefly remarkable as the seat of the once powerful Knights of the Teu¬ tonic Order, to whom this country was ceded in the 13th cent, by the King of Poland. After a struggle of 53 years the knights effectually subdued the pagan and then barbarous Prussians. The germ of the present Prussian empire sprang, in fact, from them. The Castle , or Palace of the Grand Masters, a vast imposing edifice, of brickwork, beautiful 430 ROUTE 78. —MARTEN BURG. ELBING. Sect. VI. in construction, in a style of Gothic peculiar to the vicinity of the Baltic, was huilt at different periods; the Alte Schloss, now much decayed, in 1276; the Middle Castle in 1309, at the time when the seat of the Order was removed hither from Venice ; and the Niedere Schloss in 1335. In 1457 it was surrendered to the Poles, after having been in the possession of the Order 148 years, and having been go¬ verned by 17 Grand Masters. Since 1815 the central building has been rescued from ruin, and admirably re¬ stored, by the aid of the archives of the Order, now at Konigsberg, which have been carefully consulted by the architect. It consists of 3 stories, vaulted; the cellar, ground floor, and master’s dwelling. The apartments have been richly decorated with frescoes, painted glass, tiles, wood panelling. The Meistcrs Rerater (Chapterhouse of the Grand Master), a square chamber with fan roof, in which assemblies of the Order were held, and foreign am¬ bassadors received, rests on a single pillar of granite in the centre. The Poles, while besieging Marienburg in 1410, endeavoured to aim a cannon- ball so as to shoot away this pillar, and overwhelm at one blow beneath the ruins the Grand Master and all his knights, whom they knew, from the information of a deserter, to be at the time assembled in conclave. The ball missed its aim, but lodged in a corner of the chimney, where it still remains. The Ordens Rcmter, in the N. wing, has fan roof supported on 3 granite pillars. The Church , in a very chaste style, and tolerably perfect, is decorated ex- tcrnally with a figure of the Virgin, in relief, of stucco covered with coloured and gilt mosaic, 26 ft. high ; it displays considerable skill and knowledge of art. Many of the Grand Masters of the Order repose in vaults beneath the Church, in simple coffins. Many cells of the knightly monks, and their sub¬ terranean dungeons, still exist. The building has been rescued from ruin, and partly restored by the taste and munificence of the King. The Butter¬ milk Tower is so called, because, accord¬ ing to the tradition, the peasants, com- I polled to build it by forced labour for the Order, were also obliged to slake the lime with buttermilk! The rly. is carried through the j Outer Castle ( Vorburg ). Beyond Marienburg the road passes through a populous country, abounding in villages, and showing evidences of prosperity and improvement. Altfelde Stat. Griinau Stat. 4^ Elbing Stat.— Inn , Stadt Berlin. A decayed trading town, with a popu¬ lation of 25,600, on the Elbing, a navi¬ gable stream emptying itself into the Frische Haff, an extensive lake sepa¬ rated from the Baltic by a narrow strip of land, and receiving a large portion of the waters of the Vistula. The Marion - kirche contains some curious sculptures, date 1500. The Bly., quitting Elbing, makes a bend to avoid the hills. The stations are Giildenboden, Schlobitten, Miil- hausen, Ticdmannsdorf, to Braunsberg Stat. (Inn: Deutsches Ilaus), a town of 7300 Inhab., on the Passarge; then by Ileiligenbeit, Sand- krug, Ludwigsarth, Kobbelbudc, to 8^ Konigsberg Terminus , inside the fortifications; on the S. (1.) bank of the Pregel. Steamer three times a week be¬ tween Elbing and Konigsberg , in 8 hours. It descends the Elbing, into the Frische Haff, separated from the Baltic by the narrow sandbank (Neh- rung), passing the convent of Cadienen , and in 2^ hours reaches Frauenberg (Inn: Zum Copernicus), a small and poor town on the Haff, residence of the Bishop of Ermeland, whose modern Palace crowns the hill. Copernicus, the great astronomer, died here (1553), and is buried in the Cathedral , a hand¬ some building of brick on a height (erected 1342). His tomb is a simple tablet bearing a globe. Copernicus was a canon of the cathedral, and lived in one of the houses which surround it. Within the enclosure is a well, fur¬ nished with water by an aqueduct and hydraulic works, constructed by him. The machinery which he erected has Prussia. ROUTE 78. -KONIGSBERG. 431 long since disappeared, but a model of it is still preserved in the cathedral, and is supposed to have been imitated in the waterworks at Marly, near Versailles. The tower which contained it still stands near the cathedral, and is called Kunst Thurm. The Papal excommunication of Co¬ pernicus, for publishing his System of the Heavens, was revoked in 1821. The steamer now steers direct for the lighthouse of Pillau —the port of Ko- nigsberg for large vessels—a flourish¬ ing town of 4000 Inliab., and a fortress. On the shores of the Half, near this, are the Castle of Lochstadt, whither the Grand Master of the Teutonic Order, Henry von Plauen, was banished, 1413 ; and on the shore of the Baltic, the Adalberts Kapelle , erected on the spot where St. Adclbert suffered martyrdom, 997, at the hands of the heathen Preussi, while preaching Christianity to them. A narrow channel connects the Half with the Baltic at Pillau. The steamer skirts the sand-hills, and in 2^ hours enters the Prcgel; ^ hour longer and it reaches Konigsberg,] Konigsberg (Polish, Ivrolewiec; Latin, Begiomontum). Inns: Hotel de Prusse, near the Borse ; Deutsches Haus, near the Schloss ; H. du Nord. Konigsberg, once the capital of Prussia Proper, and long the residence of the Electors of Brandenburg, still ranks as third city in the Prussian do¬ minions in extent of population, having 94,000 Inkab. It has been strongly re- fortified, on the plan of detached forts, since 1843. The river Pregel, passing through it, ends in the Frische Haff, 4 m. below the city. Its Palace (Schloss), a large ugly building, part converted into a go¬ vernment-house, and rarely occupied by royalty, was founded by Otto- kar King of Bohemia, after leading a crusade against the heathen Preussi, 1257. It afterwards became the re¬ sidence of the Grand Masters of the Teutonic Order, and of the Dukes of Prussia, by whom the E. front was built 1532, the W. in 1594, the S. in 1551. It was the residence of Fredk. Wm. III., King of Prussia, and his queen Louisa, when driven by Napoleon’s arms from Berlin. In the Schlosshirche Frederick Elector of Bran¬ denburg in 1701 placed the crown on his own head, assuming the title of Frederick I., King of Prussia. The tablets on the walls, covered with close- written lists of names, show how many brave men of the province lost their lives in the War of Liberation, 1813. Above the church is a vast hall, 265 ft. long, 60 broad, and only 19 high, destitute of ornament, called Mosko- untzer Saal , from the Muscovite ambas¬ sadors of the Grand Duke Basilius, who were received here by Margrave Albert. The inner court once served as a tilt- yard. The cellars beneath once served as a dungeon and places of torture for criminals. The Parade Platz, not far from the Schloss, is lined on 2 sides by the New University and Theatre ; in the midst is a bronze gilt equestrian statue of King Frederick William III., a very suc¬ cessful work by Kiss, erected 1851. The bas-reliefs relate to events in the life of the King, who resided here after the Battle of Jena, 1809-13, and here set on foot the enrollment of the land- wehr and the Prussian rising against the French. The Schloss- Teich is a pretty sheet of water, bordered by gardens, extend¬ ing from the Schloss nearly to the Rossgarten-Gate. It is the chief or¬ nament of the city, and place of public resort. It stands much higher than the river. A foot bridge leads across it from the Parade Platz. The Pregel, lined with warehouses and crowded with shipping, runs through the midst of the city, and dividing forms an island called Kneiphof, the oldest quarter, abounding in old houses. It is joined to either bank by 5 bridges, and on it stand the Cathe¬ dral and Exchange. The Cathedral, begun 1332, deserves notice. It is an interesting Gothic building, and contains in the choir the marble monument of Margrave Albert of B., bearing his kneeling effigy, 1568. Here are other tombs of many Teutonic Knights, the chancellor v. Ivospotli, and the grand-master Duke 432 ROUTE 78. —KONIGSBERG. Sect. VI. Luther (1385). Kant the metaphysician, author of the System of Pure Reason, as it is called, who died here in 1804, is buried in a porch, or stoa, outside of the church. The house in which he lived still exists, No. 3 in the Prinzessin Strassc; a statue of him in cast-iron has been set up before it; directly opposite is the large Post Office, built 1849. The Altstadt Kirche, built from Schinkel’s design 1839-43, is so full of pillars that you camiot see the preacher for them. In the Konigs-Strasse, No. 57, is the Stadt-Museum , containing some modern German paintings. No. 66, same street, is the Library of 160,000 vols., including several MSS. of Luther. At the end of the street is the Konigs Thor , built 1846, and beyond it, near the Herzogs-acker, the Defensions Caserne , a fortified bar¬ rack, completed 1851, and forming part of the fortifications. On the whole Konigsbcrg contains few remains of antiquity, considering its age as a city, and is far inferior to this respect to Danzig. Near the Dom is the Old University, founded 1544, by the Margrave Albert, and called the Albertina; it has about 350 students. A bust of Kant, by Scha- dow, is placed in the Academic Ilall. The Observatory, which obtained re¬ nown under the direction of the late Prof. Bessel, occupies an old bastion W. of the town. A British Consul resides here. The chief journals of Europe arc to he found at the Bdrsenhalle. The royal park of AVarnichcn on the Baltic is pleasing and worth a visit. The river Pregel, on which Konigsbcrg is built, is not sufficiently deep to admit large vessels, which, therefore, unload at Pillau, The trade of Konigs- berg consists of corn, for receiving which there are vast ranges of Warehouses, hemp, flax, linseed, tallow, bristles, wax, &c.; but it has fallen off since the end of the last cent., when it had reached the height of prosperity. There is a con¬ siderable fishery of sturgeon at Pillau. An extensive trade in Amber was for¬ merly carried on at Konigsbcrg ; there were at one time 70 amber-turners in the town. That substance is still one of its exports; the chief consumption of it being in the Levant, where it is sold for pipe mouth-pieces. Amber is found all along the coast of East and West Prussia. It is obtained from the sea, which, after high winds, especially those blowing from the N., throws up a vast accumulation of sea-weed. The amber-fishers stationed on the shore wait till the floating seaweed ap¬ proaches near to it. They then send in their people up to their necks in water, provided with nets, by which they draw the weeds to land. The am¬ ber is found adhering to, or entangled in them, and is collected and sorted. Amber is also obtained by digging up the soil even at a considerable distance from the sea. It usually occurs near the sur¬ face, but in some instances shafts have been successfully sunk. The trade in amber was first appropriated by the Grand Masters of the Teutonic Order, who often paid the entire expenses of their court out of the revenue derived from this source. It afterwards became a royal monopoly, and was guarded in early times by laws of the utmost se¬ verity. Coastguards (strand-riders) were stationed all along the coast, and the peasant who concealed or attempted to dispose of any pieces he had found was condemned to be hung up to the nearest tree. Afterwards a range of gallows was set up on the shore in terrorem. Since the commencement of the present cent, the government has let out the right of collecting amber to private contractors. Dealer in Amber goods, Schlesinger, Franzosische St. About 22 m. S. of Konigsbcrg lies Dylan, where Napoleon fought the Russians under Benningsen, in the snow, and compelled them to retreat, though with a severe loss of 10,000 on his side, Feb. 8th, 1807. About 12 m. N.E. of this is Friedland on the Alle—scene of another French victory over Benning¬ sen, June 14th, 1807, when 25,000 Russians were slain and 80 pieces of cannon taken. This led to the Treaty of Tilsit. Prussia. ROUTE. 79. —KoNTGSBERGr TO MEMEL. 433 Steamers daily to Tilsit and Memel. Rigs. to Dunaburg, Riga, and St. Petersburg; to Berlin. ROUTE 79. KONIGSBERG: TO MEMEL, BY TILSIT. 29| Pruss. m.= 137 Eng. m. Rail as far as Insterburg. Trains in 3 hrs. Thence Schnellpost daily to Tilsit. Tlic Rly. from Konigsberg to Riga pro¬ ceeds due E. on the side of the Pre¬ gel, by Lindenau Stat. 2^ Tapiau Stat., a town of 3000 In- hab. The castle, built by the Teutonic Knights, is now a poor-hQusc. The rly. crosses the Allc by an iron lattice bridge near Weblan Stat. Norkitten Stat. Insterburg Stat. (Buffet), a commer¬ cial town of 11,000Inhab., on2 streams, which after their junction form the Pregel. [The Riga lino continues E. by Stal- luponen Stat., Eydtkuhnen Stat., Prus¬ sian frontier, to Diinaburg and Riga.] Schnellpost daily to Tilsit by Aulo- wohnen. 3 Mehlawischkcn. 2^ Kelmienen. 2g Tilsit (Cronopolis).— Inns: Prinz Wilhelm ; II. do Russie. A town of 16,000 Inhab., named from the Tilse, a small stream which falls into the Memel, here crossed by a bridge of boats 1150 ft. long. Upon a raft, moored a little below it, in the middle of the river, Napoleon, the Empr. Alexander of Russia, and the King of Prussia met, July 9, 1807, to sign the [>. G.] treaty of Tilsit, by which half the ter¬ ritory of Prussia was severed from her. From Tilsit to Memel the road is bad. 3£ Szameitkehmen. 2| Werdcnberg. 1~ Norkaiten. 2^ Prokuls. 3 Memel.—Inns : British Hotel;— H. de Russie;—W. Ross. This is the most northern town of Prussia. It lies at the entrance of the Kurische Half, and has 17,000 Inhab. It is the central point of the Baltic timber trade, and exports also a vast quantity of raw hides. A British Consul resides here. There is a more direct road to Memel along the Strand, a narrow tongue of sand between the Baltic and the Kurische ITaff; but, as it is very ill kept, and not provided with post- horses, it is little used. It was for¬ merly the most frequented, and, were it not insufferably tedious, with an awkward ferry across the port of Memel at the end, would be worth travelling for its singularity. There are 3 posts between Konigsberg and Memel. As it is impossible to make a firm road, the carriage must be driven with one wheel almost in the sea, and it requires 1 or 2 additional horses. The Nehrung, as the sandbank is called, is like the Dunes of Holland, but it seems difficult to con¬ ceive that such broad, high, and steep hills can be all drift sand. The name Kurische Haff is derived from the Kurs , inhabitants of the neighbouring Cour- land. The traveller obliged to walk by the side of his carriage will hare plenty of time to seek for amber. U 434 ROUTE 80. —STETTIN TO DANZIG. Sect. VI. ROUTE 80. STETTIN TO DANZIG, BY BROMBERG ; TO POSEN AND BRESLAU.—RAILWAY. Trains from Stettin to Dir sell an i n 10 hrs. Thence to Danzig in hrs. 58 Pruss. m. = 271 Eng. m. The Railway is carried from Stettin across the Oder, and on wooden via¬ ducts, resting on piles, over the shallow and marshy borders of the lake of Damm, to Alt Damm, and by the shore of the Madue lake. Stargard Stat. (Tm, Prinz v. Preus- sen.) This is the principal town of Farther Pomerania, Pop. 16,000, on the navigable Ihna, surrounded by perfect ramparts and watchtowers, furnished with gates. The Marienkirche (14th and 15th cents.), a fine Gothic building, a work of the Templars, simple in plan, is worth study. The Rathhaus (16th cent.) deserves notice. Dolitz Stat. Arnswalde Stat. ; by a chain of small meres or lakes, to Augustwalde Stat. Woldenberg Stat. (Rte. 77.) Kreutz Junction Stat. —4 Railways meet here—1, from Stettin; 2, from Bromberg and Danzig; 3, from Posen, rt. ; 4, from Kustrin. The Rly. hence to Danzig is described Rte. 77 ; that to Posen (122 m. from Stettin), trains in 6 hrs., proceeds by Wronker Stat., on the Warthe river. *Samter Stat. The country in this part of Poland is dreary, and the common people look miserable : horse¬ flesh is a staple of food. Rockietnica Stat. Posen Stat. Posen (Inns : IT. de Rome, in the Wilhelm’s Platz ; H. du Nord; My- lius H.; H. de Dresde). This very ancient seat of the Polish Kings be¬ came in 1815 the capital of the pro¬ vince of Prussian Poland, since which time the largest and handsomest part of the town has been built. It is a cheerful town of 51,343 Inhab., more than half Germans, including 12,000 Protestants and 10,000 Jews, situated on the river Wartha. The very in¬ teresting and picturesque Falsifications constructed since 1828 render it a first-class fortress on the frontier of 1 Russia. They are well worth seeing. Passing through them from the Rly. by the Berlin Gate, the stranger reaches the Wilhelms Platz, in which stand the Stadt- Theater and the Raczinsky Library , in a building faced with a portico of 24 cast-iron columns ; 20,000 volumes presented to the town by Count R. The Pom, in a suburb (Wallischei) inhabited by Poles of the lower orders, on the rt. bank of the Wartha, is a modern¬ ised building (1775), but contains some works of art:—4 large engraved brasses (15th cent.), to members of the De Gorta family, especially to Lucas de G., Way- wode 147 5, in low relief, and 2 bishops; also several recumbent effigies of bishops. The Golden Chapel , erected in a style (Byzantine) of great splendour 1842, by the society of Noble Poles at the insti¬ gation of Count Edwd. Raczinski, with painting and rich gilding and mosaics, contains 2 bronze statues of the first Kings of Poland, by Rauch, which merit notice. The Rathhaus is one of the oldest buildings in the town, in a peculiar Sclavonic-Romanesque style (1512-20), not unlike that at Breslau, painted with frescoes of the Kings of Poland, now nearly effaced, and furnished with oriental-looking pinnacles and parapets; above it rises the loftiest tower in the town (date 1730). A con¬ siderable wool fair is held here in June. The best view of Posen may be gained from the roof of * Fort Winiary , the citadel of the new works. Admis¬ sion may be obtained at the Bureau of the Platz-Major. Railways to Stettin (Rte. 80). To Breslau. See below. Posen lies on the direct road from Berlin to Warsaw, but for about 40 m. to the Russian frontier there is no chaussee but a deep sand. [“ Posen to Gniesen, by Kostreyn, 7 £ Germ. m. Through undulating country, with occasional small lakes, and some forest. Prussia. ROUTE 80.' —GNIESEH. 435 “ Gniesen (Polish, Gniesno) : (Hotel de Varsovie ; very middling) a small town, said to have been the earliest seat of the Polish monarchy, and founded by Lekh the First, on the spot where he found an eagle’s nest (gniesno, whence the name) on the ground. In later times its importance was due to its being the seat of an archbishop, the Primate of Poland. During an inter¬ regnum he was the head of the republic, and held greater power than was en¬ trusted to the king. “ The cathedral is a large building, with two brick towers capped by spires at the west end. It would appear to date from the latter part of the 14th century; but not much of the original work is left, many alterations, casings of parts with marble, &c., having been made in the 16th and succeeding cen¬ turies. The chapels which surround the building beyond the aisles are in many cases superbly decorated with marble columns and sculptures, and contain magnificent monuments of archbishops and canons. The effigies and other sculptures of many of these are extremely good in style and of the 16th and 17th centuries. There are also some bronze effigies in low relief, dating from about 1500, and a very large engraved brass of Archbishop Jacobus de Senno, ob. 1480, a very singular specimen of art. The most remarkable objects in the church are, however, the bronze valves of the S. doorway, and the shrine of St. Adalbert, which stands in the middle of' the nave. The first are no doubt of the 12th cent.,and contain in 18 panels subjects from the history of that saint. St. Adalbert, or St. Wojciech, was born about 956, became Abp. of Prague, but was eventually driven away from thence by his unruly flock, baptized Stephen of Hungary, afterwards king, and event¬ ually canonized, aided in the conversion of Poland, and was martyred in 997 at Fischhausen, near Dantzic, in an at¬ tempt to convert the pagan Prussians. He is one of the patron saints of Poland, and has been, and indeed still is, very much venerated in all the countries adjacent to the Baltic. He was the composer of the celebrated hymn to the Virgin, beginning,— 4 Boja rodzica dziewica. Bojiem wslaviona Marya. i . e. 4 Virgin mother of God. Mary glorified by God,’— which was sung by the Polish armies before engaging in battle, and prefixed to the treaties of the Polish kings. It is believed to date from the 14th cent., and to be the earliest written monument of the Polish tongue. “It is still sung here by tens of thousands of pilgrims on the 23rd of April, St. Adalbert’s day, when a great fair is held at Gniesen. The shrine is of solid silver; the sides decorated with bas-reliefs, representing events of the life of the saint; and on the top is his recumbent effigy, of life- size, also in silver. Over the shrine and the altar which stands before it is a baldachin, 40 Polish ft. in height, with twisted columns of marble, a copy of that over the high-altar in St. Peter’s, Rome. This, and probably the shrine also, was made at the expense of Matthew Lubienski, Dean of Gniesen, in 1767. In the wall of the nave is some curious sculpture, which seems to have formed part of the monument of St. Adalbert, erected by Archbishop James, of Senno.—1ST.”]] A Railroad, finished 1850, leads from Posen to Breslau. Trains in 5£ hrs. The stations are— Kosten. Lissa. Rawicz. Trachenberg. Obernigk. Breslau Stat., see Rte. 81. U 2 436 ROUTE 81. —BERLIN TO FRANKFURT. Sect. VI. ROUTE 81. BERLIN TO FRANKFURT ON THE ODER AND BRESLAU.—RAILWAY. 471 Truss, m. = 222 Eng. m. Trains to Frankfurt in 24 h.: to Breslau in Ilk. Terminus in Berlin, near the Stra- lauer Platz. l£ Kopenik Stat. on an island in tke Spree. The Schloss was, about 1830, used as a prison for riotous students. The line now skirts the lake called Miiggelsee. if Erkner Stat.; lime-works near this. 3 Furstenwalde Stat. The Marien- kirche , a brick church of the 14th cent., with a modern roof, is worth notice. It has a beautiful Gothic Sacrament - shauschen (date 1510) of sandstone; monuments of several bishops — part stone, part brass — before the altar. Near Rosengarten the line crosses the watershed between Elbe and Oder. 2 Briesen Stat. 2 j Frankfurt on the Oder Junct. Stat. — Inns: Adler ; Deutsches Haus. A city of 36,500 Inhab., no longer forti¬ fied. A bridge of wood, loaded with heavy stones to prevent its being washed away by floods, connects the old town on the 1. bank of the Oder with the suburb on the rt. bank. The prosperity of the town arises from its situation upon the great Silesian highway, and upon a navi¬ gable river communicating by canals with the Vistula and the Elbe, which combine in causing the greater part of the manufactures of Silesia to pass through it; and from three consider¬ able Fairs held here annually. It is far inferior, however, in commercial activity, to its namesake on the Maine. The University was transferred to Breslau in 1810. The chief buildings are the Oberkirche , or Ch. of St. Mary , a brick building of the middle of the 13th cent., with 5 aisles to the nave. It has a splendid altarpiece of carved woodwork, richly gilt, with 8 paint- ings, date 1517. The stained-glass windows, a bronze 7-branched candle¬ stick 12 ft. high, with bas-reliefs of the 14th cent., and a font also with bas- reliefs, deserve notice. The Rathhaus , 1607, retains portions of moulded brick¬ work of the 13th and 14th centuries, though large part is later. A monu¬ ment has been erected, beyond the bridge, to Prince Leopold of Brunswick, who was drowned here in 1785, while attempting to rescue an unfortunate fa¬ mily from an inundation of the Oder. The battle of Kunersdorf , one of the most memorable of the Seven Years’ War, in which Frederick the Great encountered the united forces of Aus¬ tria and Russia, amounting to 80,000 men, and, though worsted, did not sustain a serious defeat, was fought within 3 m. N.E. of the town, in 1759. The poet Kleist died at Frankfurt of a wound received in that engagement. A monument has been set up to his memory. Frankfurt is connected by Rail with Danzig, Posen, and Stettin (Rte. 77). 1 Krebsjauche Stat. 1 Furstcnbcrg Stat. 1 Neuzcllc Stat. 2 \ Guben Stat. A town of 16,000 Inhab., on the river Neisse, whose banks are here planted with vines. It has an extensive manufacture of cloth. 14 Starzeddel Stat. 14 Sommerfeld Stat. 3 Sorau Stat. {Inn, Stern). A town of 5000 Inhab., in a sandy plain. Manufacture of wax candles. A road leads hence W. to Muskau, Rte. 82. 1 Hansdorf Junct. Stat. [A branch railway runs from this to Glogau, distance 9 Germ, m., and Posen, by 2 Sagan Stat. Inn , Ritter St. Georg. A town of 5500 Inhab., on the Bober. The Chateau was begun by Wallen¬ stein ; attached to it is a fine garden and park. It now belongs to the Prince of Ilohenzollern-IIechingen. 2 Sprottau Stat. {Inn, Deutsches Haus), a town of 3000 Inhab. Beyond, the road runs not far from the Bober. Gloomy fir-woods, rarely enlivened by a woodman’s hut, a pitch oven, or an iron forge, spread themselves over the district. 3 Quariz Stat. Prussia. route 81 .—bunzlau. 2 Glogau Stat.— Inns ; Deutsclies Haus ; Westphal’s Hotel. A fortress of the 2nd rank on the 1. hank of the Oder, 17,000 Inhab. The Doni upon an island dates from 1120, and contains a madonna by Cranach, sen., his master¬ piece.] 1 Ilalbau Stat. ) Through unin- 1^ Rausche Stat. j terrupted forests. 1^ Kohlfurt Junct. Stat. Here the railway is joined by that from Dresden. (Rte 82.) 2^ Siegersdorf Stat. The Qucis is crossed, and afterwards the Bober, on a Viaduct 1550 ft. long, 76 ft. high. 2 Bunzlau Stat. — Inns: Kron Prinz ; Deutsches Haus. A small well-built town, of 5000 Inhab., on the Bober, situated on the verge of the most pic¬ turesque as well as industrious district of Silesia, which extends as far as the mountains. In the market-place is an Iron Obelisk, by Schinkel and G. Sclia- dow, to the memory of the Russian General Kutusoff, who died here, 28th April, 1813. The father of German poetry, Opitz, was born in a house in the Ring, No. 66. A brown pottery is made here. About 2 m. off lies the Moravian colony of Gnadenberg. 3f Hainau Stat. 2tj Liegnitz Stat.—Inns: Rauten- kranz, good; Schwarzer Adler. This town, of 18,600 Inhab., is handsomely built, and prettily placed on the junction of the Katzbach and Schwarzwasser. The Schloss, nearly rebuilt after a fire in 1834, but retaining 2 fine brick towers which date from 15th cent., has been converted into a Museum of Art, In¬ dustry, and Manufactures, ancient and modern, of considerable interest, ar¬ ranged by Baron Minutoli. In the Furstencapelle, which is poor, are the monuments of the Piast Dukes: the family became extinct 1675, after having given 24 kings to Poland, and 123 dukes to Liegnitz, dating from 775. The building of the Ritter Academie, an institution for the educa¬ tion of the sons of Silesian nobles, is handsome. The New Cemetery for Protestants and Catholics, outside the LIEGNITZ. BRESLAU. 437 town, on the rt. of the road to Breslau, should be visited. Railway —Liegnitz to Reichenbach. The Katzbach, though a small stream, is memorable in history from the battle named after it, gained over the French in 1813 by Bliicher, who received, as a reward for his services, the title of Prince of Wahlstatt {Battle¬ field) from a small village of that name, with a convent, now suppressed, S. of Liegnitz. It had rained for four days in succession previous to the battle, and continued to rain while it lasted, so that powder was useless; and the victory was gained by the bayonet and the butt-end of the musket: 102 French cannon were taken. The fiercest part of the battle raged between Wahlstatt and Eichholz, near which a monument has been erected by the King of Prussia. The convent of Wahlstatt was built to commemorate the triumph of the Christian chivalry of Europe over the barbarous hordes of Asia, in a great battle, fought near the same spot in 1241, between the Duke of Silesia and the army of the Mongul Tartars. On quitting Liegnitz Stat. the Katzbach is crossed. 1t| Spittelndorf Stat. l^Malsch Stat. The railway here approaches the Oder. 1 Ncumarkt Stat.— Inns : Die Hoff- nung-; Ilohes Haus. A town of 3000 Inhab. The Zobten mountain is visible. 1^ Nimkau Stat. 1 -.j Lissa Stat. After the famous battle of Lissa (Leuthen), 5th Dec. 1757, in which Frederick the Great, with 30,000 men, defeated the Aus¬ trian army of 90,000, he unexpectedly rode on to the castle of Lissa, a small village on the approach to Breslau, which still remained in the hands of the Austrians. A party of Austrian officers were not a little surprised when their conqueror entered the room where they were assembled, modestly inquiring, “ Have you any room for me here, gentlemen ?” IT Breslau Stat. in the Schweidnitz suburb, on the S. side of the town, not far from Taucntzicus Plate.— Inns: 438 Sect. VI. ROUTE 81.' —BRESLAU. CHURCHES, ETC. Goldene Gans (Golden Goose) ; Hotel Zedlitz, near the railway, well situated and well managed; landlord speaks English; cheap, and good; Goldener Lowe; Hotel de Silesie; the White Eagle. Breslau, a fine flourishing town, is the capital of Silesia, and the 2nd city in Prussia in point of popu¬ lation, having 145,000 Inhah. (45,000 Homan Catholics, 10,000 Jews). It is built on both banks of the Oder, which is split into branches and crossed by several bridges. The fortifications were partly demolished by the French in 1806-7, and since then have been levelled, and converted into Boulevards for the recreation of the inhabitants. They have been tastefully planted, and laid out in gardens and pleasure grounds; so that the whole forms a delightful belt of verdure, separating the old town from the suburbs. From the Tas- chen Bastei the town is best seen; and from the Ziegel Bastei there is a good view of the Oder, which, though rarely picturesque below Breslau, here assumes a pleasing character. Breslau is interesting to passing tra¬ vellers, not only as a commercial town —bustling, prosperous, and wealthy— but also on account of various objects of art and antiquity contained in it. The principal streets are the Schweid- nitzer Strasse, leading N. from the Tauenziens Platz to the Grosse-Ring, and the line is continued N. in the Schmiede Gasse to the Oder and Sand Insel, where the 3 principal churches are grouped together. The Churches , divided between Pro¬ testants and Catholics, are exceed¬ ingly interesting, from the number of mural monuments and other works in alto-rilievo , which decorate their porches and exterior walls. The Cathedral of St. John, begun 1170, continued through later centuries, and now much modern¬ ized, stands upon the Dom Insel. It is distinguished by its quaint and not ungraceful architecture of red brick. In the Lady Chapel, which has a square end, is the marble effigy of Bp. Pretz- laus, its founder, d. 1376, with a herse of iron, having lanterns in the angles and brasses. The monument of Card. Bp. Fredk. Landgrave of Hesse. The fine bronze relief of Bp. Johann v. Rothcr (1496) is by Peter Vischer. In the chapel of St. John is Lucas Cranach's altarpiece, the “ Madonna unter Tan- nen.” The monument having 2 Turks for supporters is that of Duke Christian of Holstein, who fell fighting against the Turks in Hungary, 1691. The Kreutzkirche , close to the Dom and much less altered, is a singular and pic¬ turesque building, with 2 towers at the W. end, founded 1288. It is of lofty proportions, and raised upon a lower eh. or crypt. See the monument of Duke Henry IV., its founder (1290), with his effigy of terra-cotta, supported by angels and priests, and set round with bas- reliefs. There is a good view of the town from the top of the tower. St. Elizabeth's Ch. possesses the highest tower in Prussia (364 ft. high). It is remarkable for curious monuments of all sorts, pictures, enamels, altars, sculp¬ ture, &c. The very handsome Ch. of Our Lady on the Sand has aisles higher than the nave, vaulting alternate ; it is of good Gothic, 1330-1336. In the Square, called Grosser-ring, stands the antique Eathhaus, a large and quaint structure, very remark¬ able for its architecture within and without; founded by King John of Bohemia, but as it now stands, show¬ ing, for the most part, the Gothic of the 15th cent., restored 1862. In the apartment called Fiirstensaal the alle¬ giance of the states of Silesia was ten¬ dered to its princes, and among them to Frederick the Great. Under it runs a great vaulted chamber—the Schweid- nitzer Keller. W. of the Rathhaus, on the parade- ground of the Grosse Ring, is an eques¬ trian statue of Frederick the Great, by Kiss , erected 1847 ; and on the opposite side a similar statue of Fred. William III., also by Kiss. Behind Frederick the Great’s statue is the Stadthaus, built 1863, from Stiiler’s design; destined for public offices, and to hold an exten¬ sive public Library. The Government House, formerly the Palace of Count Hatzfeld, is a fine building ; the Palace (Schloss) scarce deserves the name. Prussia. ROUTE 82. —DRESDEN TO BRESLAU. 439 The Square, named after Bliicher, S.W. of the Grosse Bing, is ornamented with a colossal bronze statue of him, by Bauch. The Tauenziens Platz bears a statue of the general of that name, the brave defender of Breslau against the Austrians, under Loudon, 1760. The University, transferred hither from Frankfurt on the Oder in 1811, numbers about 900 students. The building, originally an Imperial palace, and afterwards a Jesuits’ college, con¬ tains one very fine apartment called Aula Leopoldina. Connected with the University are the following collec¬ tions :— A Museum of Natural History; the Central Library of 300,000 volumes, open daily from 9 to 12; the Cabinet of Antiquities —the larger portion are German and Slavonic; the Picture Gallery , made up of 700 paintings, chiefly trash. The Botanic Garden, close to the Dom, is rich, and well looked after. The Theatre is a handsome building. It is not surprising that Breslau, situated in the centre of the most pro¬ ductive manufacturing province of the Prussian dominions, concentrating also the trade of a large portion of Poland and Bussia, should enjoy extensive and in¬ creasing prosperity. The articles of com¬ merce are various and important. Corn, metals of many sorts from the Silesian mines, cloths, linen, timber, and fire¬ wood are the principal. There are nearly 100 distilleries in the town. In addition to this, Breslau is the first market for wool on the continent. Wool-fairs are held here twice a-year, June and October. In March 1813 the youth of Prussia here rallied round their king ; and here began that patriotic resistance to the French which led to the liberation of their country, and to the occupation of Paris. Breslau is a city of Slavonic origin, having been occupied by the Poles and Bohemians alternately for 800 years. When the Silesian dukes died out it was transferred to Austria, from whom it was taken by Frederick the Great, 1742. Poles are very numerous, and their language so prevalent that many of the shop-boards are inscribed with it. Silesia has a considerable Slavonic population. Pailroads —to Freiburg and Schweid- nitz, 7? Germ. m. (Bte. 84)—to Berlin —to Cracow (Bte. 85a)—to Batibor and Vienna (Bte. 856). To Dresden; to Posen and Danzig (Bte. 80) ; to Warsaw. To Hirschberg. 18 m. E. of Breslau is Oels, chief town of the mediatised principality of Brunswick-Oels, with 6000 Inhab., and a chateau. At the village of Krieblowitz, 14 m. from Breslau, Marshal Bliicher died, in 1819. (See Bte. 84.) EOUTE 82. DRESDEN TO BRESLAU.—RAILWAY. 35 Pruss. m. = 163^ Eng. m. Trains to Gorlitz in 3, to Breslau in 8 h. To the Saxon frontier the country is very picturesque. Badeberg Stat. Near here the rail¬ way crosses the Boder. 5 Bischofswerda Stat. Inn, Engel. 2f Bautzen (Budissin) Stat. (Bins : Goldene Krone, comfortable; Das Lamm, in the suburb), the capital of Upper Lusatia (Ober Lausitz) is a very picturesque town, surrounded by tur- reted old walls, beautifully situated on the Spree, and has 12,000 Inhab., who carry on flourishing manufactures of cloth and cotton. The parish Ch. of St. Peter is shared between Catholics and Protestants. The Estates of the province hold their meetings in the Standehaus, A vast modern - Gothic 440 ROUTE 82. —LOBAU. GORLITZ. Eathhaus lias been built. Close to tlie town lies the old castle of Ortenburg, formerly the residence of the Margraves of Meissen, ancestors of the Saxon Royal Family. Seidow, on the 1. bank of the Spree, is almost entirely inha¬ bited by Wends. In the neighbour¬ hood was fought the battle of Bautzen , May 1813, when Napoleon compelled the allies to retire, after dreadful slaughter on both sides, and very little advantage on his. On the following- day, May 22, at the entrance of the village of Mcrkersdorf, near Reichen- bach, Duroc, the most faithful and attached friend perhaps that he ever had, was killed by a cannon-ball, at the close of a skirmish. After quitting Bautzen the valley of the Spree is crossed by the railway on a long bridge. About 1 m. S. of Pommritz Stat. rises the steeple of Hochkircli , seen on the rt., marking the scene of one of the most bloody battles of the Seven Years’ War. It wasfought in 1746, by night. Marshal Keith, one of Frederick’s best generals, by birth a Scotchman, was killed in it; a monu¬ ment erected to him by Sir Robert Keith, English Ambassador at Vienna, 1776, still remains behind the altar of the village church, though Frederick removed his body to Berlin. About 30 m. N. of Bautzen is Muskau , once the seat of Prince Piickler-Muskau, who wrote a coxcombical book about England. The park is laid out in the English style, with considerable taste. Muskau is now the property of Prince Frederick of the Netherlands. 2~ Lobau Junct. Stat. Buffet. ( Inn , Lamm, tolerable); a town of 2500 Inhab. In the ancient Eathhaus the deputies of the 6 towns of Lusatia met, during 5 cents., from 1310 to 1814. Besides the German churches, there is a Wendie church here ; 50,000 of the inhab. of Lusatia are Wends (Vends) of Slavonic origin, differing- from the Germans even in the present day in speech, dress, and manners. A Bailway runs from Lobau by Herrnhut to Zittau. Length 3| Germ, m. Herrnhut lies about 6 Eng. m. S. of Lobau, (See Rte, 84 a.) j Sect. YI. The first place within the frontier of Prussia is Reichenbach Stat. (Inn : Sonne.) A simple block of sandstone marked with the name Duroc , on the 1. of the high road, marks the grave of the friend of Napoleon, who left 1000 francs to set up a monument to him. The ball which killed him was fired from a Russian battery. 3j Gorlitz Stat. (Inns: Rheinis- cher Hof, at the Stat.; Preussischer Hof; Krone), a flourishing little town, which belonged to Saxony previous to 1815, and is now capital of the Prussian province of Upper Lusatia. It is well situated on the slope of a hill, at whose base flows the Neisse, and has 28,000 Inhab. It retains many marks of antiquity; its old gates sur¬ mounted by towers, the finest of which is called Kaiscrtrutz (1490). Its houses, like the towns to the E. and those of Italy, are furnished with arcades. Much cloth and linen are made here. The Ch. of St. Peter and St. Paul (1428- 1497) is one of the largest in Saxony, and has 5 aisles ; the windows of the N. side, as well as the triple altar end, are hand¬ some. The subterranean chapel, hewn in the rock, is the oldest part, and cu¬ rious. The Kreuzkirche , outside the town, on the road to Muskau, is a representation of the events of our Lord’s Passion and the localities of the Holy Sepulchre. The ch. is 2 stories high ; in the upper one is a representa¬ tion of the Last Supper. Behind this is a miniature copy of the Holy Sepul¬ chre itself. It was built (1480-89) by a burgomaster of Gorlitz, who tra¬ velled to Jerusalem with an architect and a painter, to copy exactly the original. The Gardens (Anlagen) outside the walls, between the Weher Thor and Muhlbergen, command a pleasing view of the vale of the Neisse and the viaduct. About 3 m. off, in the valley of the Neisse, rises the picturesque hill of Landskrone , surmounted by basalt, and commanding a fine view. General von Winterfeldt, another favourite officer of Frederick the Great, fell in battle against Prussia. ROUTE 83. -THE RIESENGEBIRGE. 441 the Austrians on the Holzberg, near Gorlitz : a monument marks the spot. [From Gorlitz an excursion may he made into Bohemia, to the Baths of Liebwerda, distant about 18 m. S.E., ro¬ mantically situated, and provided with good accommodation, though retired and not much frequented. The waters re¬ semble those of Spa. There are some beautiful valleys around it, and hi the neighbourhood the convent of Haindorf, and the old Castle of Friedland, from which the celebrated Wallenstein re¬ ceived his title of Duke. It was pre¬ sented to him, with its dependent estates, by the Emperor Ferdinand, as a com¬ pensation for the property he had sacri¬ ficed in his cause. It now belongs to the Count Clam Gallas, and still contains some relics of Wallenstein, his portrait, and his sword, with collections of armour, pictures, &c. The Upper Castle was built by Wallenstein. The dun¬ geons beneath the thick round tower are horrible. Inn, am Schloss, good. The ascent of the Tafelf elite, 3400 ft. high, may be made from Liebwerda, from which it is about 4 m. distant. 14 m. S. of Friedland is Reichenberg (Rte. 84 a).] The Viaduct over the valley of the Neisse, near Gorlitz, 1500 ft. long, resting on 30 piers, and raised 112 ft. above the river, is one of the finest works of rail¬ way engineering in N. Germany. Penzig Stat. 34 Kohlfurth Junct. Stat. Here this railway joins that from Berlin to Breslau, and for the rest of the way see Breslau Terminus. Rte. 81. ROUTE 83. THE RIESENGEBIRGE. BUNZLAU TO IIIRSCHBERG, WARMBRUNN, SCHMIEDEBERG, AND LANDESIIUT; EX¬ CURSION TO ADERSBACH. The range of mountains separating Silesia from Bohemia is called Rie- sengebirge (Giant Mountains). The chief of this chain is the Schneekoppe (Snow-head), the highest mountain in Germany 1ST. of the Danube, being 4983 ft. above the sea. The outline of the chain is rather swelling than bold, but within its valleys are scenes of great beauty, enhanced in the eyes of the Germans of the N. by being contrasted with the wearisome flatness and mono¬ tony of their oWn country. It must be understood that the scenery of the Rie- sengebirge will bear no comparison with that of the Alps, either in elevation, grandeur, or beauty. Its beauties are limited to a pleasing variety of hiU and dale, wood and water, rich verdure and fertility of soil, numerous towns and villages planted in romantic valleys by the sides of rivers, inhabited by an in¬ dustrious population and enlivened by prosperous manufactures. These fea¬ tures give to the country an agreeable aspect; and, in conjunction with its Mineral Baths, render it annually the resort of a multitude of strangers. The best approaches to the Riesenge- birge are from Bunzlau, on the Berlin and Breslau railway, Rte. 81; or from Breslau by the railway to Freiburg, Rte. 84. The following are some of the most interesting points proceeding from W. to E., and passing from the Saxon and Prussian into the Austrian territory. The Moravian colony of Ilerrnhut (p. 430), though not within the Riesenge- birge, lies at a short distance from their W. extremity. The Baths of Liebevoer- da, and WaUenstein’s castle of Fried¬ land, under the Tafelfichte, one of the highest of the range of the Rie- sengebirge, may bo visited by making short detours from the high road. u 3 442 ROUTE 83. —LOWENBERG. HIRSCHBERG. Sect. VI. The tour of the Biesengebirge pro¬ perly begins at Hirschberg and Warm - brum (see below), which are the most central points for making excursions, and the best head-quarters, as affording tolerable accommodation. Owing to the changeablencss of the weather, the ascent of the Schneekoppe , which is usu¬ ally made from Hirschberg or Schmie¬ deberg, very often does not repay the trouble. The river Elbe rises from the S. base of this mountain at the head of a beautiful valley. The country be¬ tween Hirschberg, Schmiedeberg, and Landshut, is the Paradise of Silesia. No one should quit the Giant Moun¬ tains without exploring the Labyrinth of Adersbach, the most singular spot in the district, but lying within the Bohemian frontier. It may be visited from Landshut or Waldenburg: the nearest towns to it are Liebau and Trautenau. Between Schmiedeberg and Breslau rises the Zobten , an isolated mountain, the advanced guard, as it were, of the Biesengebirge towards the N., commanding a very extensive view. The Biesengebirge are the theatre of the exploits of the mischievous spirit called Rubezahl , whose name is well translated into English by that of Num¬ ber Nip (i. e. turnip numherer). There is hardly a mountain or a glen in the country without its legend of this popu¬ lar demon. There are very good Inns at the towns of this district; and in remote spots on the mountains the traveller, not over fas¬ tidious, may be tolerably well accommo¬ dated, without any luxury,in the build¬ ings called Baude (Scot. Bothie), resem¬ bling somewhat the chalets of the Alps. Guides are indispensable. They are appointed by the local authorities in the Prussian territory, and receive 1 thaler a day, for which they carry the bag¬ gage. In Austria they are not licensed, nor is their charge fixed. Detailed in¬ formation respecting the most remark¬ able spots in the Biesengebirge is given in this and the following Boutes. j The traveller coming from Berlin or Dresden should proceed by the railways described in Btes. 81 and 82, as far as the Bunzlau Stat. From thence an excellent macadamised road runs S. to Lowenberg. The country displays at every step increasing natural beauties, a dense population, and a fertile soil. A constant intermixture of wood and verdure, hill and dale, give a peculiar charm to the landscape. 2^ Lowenberg. Inns: II. du Boi; Weisses Boss. A town of 4000 Inhab. on the high road from Dresden to Bres¬ lau, and in a beautiful situation. It possesses an interesting Bathhaus of the beginning of the 15th cent. ; and the Palace of the Prince of Hohenzol- lcrn-Heeliingen containing a collection of paintings. At N euland, in the vicinity, are considerable quarries of gypsum and of millstones. When about four-fifths of the stage are accomplished a slight eminence over which the road passes displays to the view of the traveller the fertile and populous valley of Hirsch¬ berg, bounded by the distant range of the Giant Mountains, “ a ravishing prospect in any country.” The Schnee¬ koppe is seen rising in the centre. 4f Hirschberg. Inns : In the town, Deutsches Haus, good; Weisses Boss, outside the town and close to the Post; Drei Bcrge, good, but noisy. This, the principal town of the district, is beauti¬ fully situated at the foot of the moun¬ tain, at the junction of 2 small streams, the Bober and Zacken, 1000 ft. above the sea, and has about 7000 Inhab. Its flourishing linen manufacture is reduced from what it was in the middle of the last cent., though a large quantity is still made here ; and this is considered the central point of this branch of in¬ dustry. It is an ancient town, still sur¬ rounded by a double line of walls. The market-place is surrounded by arcades like some of the Italian towns. The chief building is the very handsome and large Gothic Protestant Church, reserved for the reformed worship by Charles XII. of Sweden by a special article of the Treaty of Alt-Banstadt. It has some military monuments in its cemetery. The Kavalierberg , S. of the town, aamed from some strong works thrown up in the 7 Years’ War, and a low fir- clad eminence called Mount Helicon , are 2 agreeable places of resort in the neigh¬ bourhood. 443 Prussia, route 83 . —the riesengebirge. warmbrunn. About 4 m. S. W. from Hirschberg lies Warmbrunn. Inns: Schwarzer Adler, good; H. de Prusse, good, extensive assortment of wines, among which some Hungarian wines arc good ; Das lange Haus, near the springs, contains good accommodations. This is a pretty, retired, quiet watering-place, lying in one of the most romantic valleys of the Riesengebirge. The visitors usually amount to between 2000 and 3000 annually. July and August are considered the height of the season. The company is not so aristocratic as that which frequents the baths of Teplitz and Carlsbad. Good Prussian society is to be found ; and the owner, Count SchafFgotsch, is strenuous in his efforts to improve the place, and is anxious that it should become more known to English travellers. The lukewarm sulphureous springs resemble those of Aix ; in temperature they vary from 97° to 99° Fah. They are consi¬ dered efficacious in cases of gout and rheumatism, &c., and owe their virtues to the presence of sulphur and alkaline salts : their odour is fetid and not agree¬ able. The principal Public Baths are Das Grafliche Bad (the Count’s bath), and the Propstei Bad (Prior’s bath). They are capable of containing 30 or 40 persons, and it is not uncommon to see them full of bathers of both sexes. In order to accommodate the great number of bathers they are divided into classes. The first class bathe first, paying 2 dol. a week; the 2nd pay 1 th. 10 sg., and follow them ; and the 3rd, chiefly poor people, come last, and pay very little. In order to enter them, a ticket of ad¬ mittance must be obtained from the master of the ceremonies. There are also private baths. The Russian Baths are the newest and best fitted up, and are provided with vapour baths in the Russian fashion. Warmbrunn origin¬ ally belonged to the Convent of Giis- sau, but is now the property of Count Schaffgotsch. The building called Galleria, or Gesellschaftshaus, comprises a ball or assembly room, and dining¬ room, where the best daily table-d’hote is to be found. The adjoining gardens and Park of Count Schaffgotsch, and the allee of poplars, afford agreeable walks to invalids and water-drinkers. Gaming of every sort is strictly forbid¬ den. There is a library of standard works open to the public in the Propstei- Gebaude, and a pretty little Theatre. Very beautiful glass of various colours, manufactured in Silesia, and numerous half-precious stones, found in the vici¬ nity, and cut by lapidaries on the spot, may be purchased here, and will serve as memorials of the Riesengebirge to friends at home. Warmbrunn is, from its centrical situation, the best point for making ex¬ cursions amongthe Riesengebirge. There are public conveyances many times daily in f hr. hence to Hirschberg. At Bruckenberg, on the way to the Schneekoppe, is an old Wooden Church of the 12th cent., which was purchased by Fred. William IV. King of Prussia 1844, and transported hither from Wang, near Drontheim, in Norway, bit by bit, and is a curious specimen of a style peculiar to Scandinavia, every part be¬ ing of timber, much curious carving, particularly about the doors, and is also worth visiting on account of its situation and view. The stone towers are new. The small river Zacken is remarkable for a phenomenon not satisfactorily ex¬ plained. At times its waters suddenly disappear and cease to flow for several hours, after which they again burst forth and assume their usual level. 2^ m. up the valley of the Zackcn, above Warmbrunn, is Hermsdorf, a village with Inns, and a Chateau of Count Schaffgotsch, the head-quarters of the Guides to the Schneekoppe, Ac. Immediately above Hermsdorf, on the summit of a wooded cone of granite, rise the stately ruins of the Castle of Kynast , founded 1292, burnt down 1657 by lightning. It is perhaps the most agreeable excursion from Warmbrunn, and is accessible by a carriage road, which is beset by beggars offering- stocks, stones, fruits, and flowers for sale. It is perched on a rock detached from the main body of the mountains, and its walls rise grandly from the brink of almost perpendicular precipices, so that it is accessible only on one side by a drawbridge. The view from its keep tower is very extensive and pleasing. 444 ROUTE 83.' —THE RIESENGEB1RGE. SCHNEEKOPPE. Sect. VI. In ancient times the daughter of a lord of this castle, named Kunigunde, who was as cold and hard-hearted as she was beautiful, made a vow to accept no one, as a lover, who should not previ¬ ously ride round the castle on the top of the outer wall. She had many suitors, hut upon this announcement the greater number retired. A few made the attempt, and were dashed to pieces in the frightful abyss. The lady showed no signs of compunction or pity •—she desired to remain single, and was glad to he relieved from the importuni¬ ties of so many lovers, all of whom were equally indifferent to her. At last a knight presented himself to try the perilous adventure, whose manly beauty and engaging manners interested her so much that she repented of her vow, and beheld him with fear and trembling mount the wall upon his steed. To her great joy he performed the exploit in safety; hut, to her surprise, when she advanced to throw herself into his arms as her destined bridegroom, instead of a kiss he gave her a box on the ear and a smart reproof, and then, leaping on his steed, left her in shame and amaze¬ ment. It was the Landgrave Albert of Thuringia, a married man, who, wishing to avenge the death of a younger bro¬ ther, had previously practised his steed in this dangerous exercise. The story is the subject of a poem by Korner. The Schneekoppe (snow-head), or liie- senkoppe , the highest summit of the Bie- sengebirgc, 4983 ft. above the sea-level, may easily be ascended in 5 or 6 hrs. from Warmbrunn. The ascent, how¬ ever, from Schmiedeberg is shorter than from Warmbrunn, and the road is good. The traveller who makes the ascent should be prepared, if he intend to pass the night on the mountain, to sleep on hay, and he will act wisely in taking provisions with him, as the accommoda¬ tion of the haucle is far from good, and not suitable for ladies. He should also be prepared for mist, rains, and the probability of not seeing the view in consequence. The road usually taken leads by Seidorf, 1 hr. 10 min. walk, where guides may be found, and chairs, asses, and mules are kept for hire; thence to the Brod Baude, 1 hr. 5 min. ; thence to Briickenberg, 15 min. (see the Norwegian Church, above) ; and from it in 1 hr. 10 min. to the Hempelsbav.de , a humble inn or chalet (where very tolerable refreshment may be had), only 20 min. walk from the summit. Those who choose to pass the night on the mountain, for the sake of seeing the sun rise, will find better accommodation in the Grenzbaude (called also Bohmisclie Baude). Hiibner’s affords the best ac¬ commodation. The Hungarian wine is good and cheap. The top of the moun¬ tain of granite, underlying gneiss and mica schist, is crowned by a small chapel, now converted into an Inn, standing on the frontier line of Austria and Prussia. The prospect is extensive when the state of the weather allows it to be visible. On the side of Silesia the slope is most abrupt, but the scenery is rich and populous. On the S., towards Bohemia, it is wild and descends more gradually in a series of terraces inter¬ sected by the rugged glen of the Biesen or Aupengrund, 2000 ft. below. Bres¬ lau, 45 m. off, is sometimes seen from hence, it is said. The want of water, however, is a great drawback in the landscape. In descending, the traveller may vary his walk by proceeding from the Hempelsbaude across the Biibezahl’s (N umber N ip’s) skittle-ground, in 1 ^ hr., to the Graber Stcine, 5 min. walk from St. Anne’s Chapel, where the forester’s house affords good refreshment, and return thence to Warmbrunn in 1| hour. The sources of the Elbe are situated under the S. roots of the Schneekoppe, which lies right S. from Hirschberg. The Weisswasser is regarded as the proper source of the Elbe, and its foun¬ tain-head is a strong spring, which never fails, rising close to the Wiesenbaude, 4380 ft. above the sea in the Weisse Wiese. Another stream from the val¬ ley, called the Nawarer Wiese, unites with it in the Elbegrund. These are troublesome to reach, surrounded by marshy ground; but the vale of the Elbe is very picturesque. The pedes¬ trian has the choice of descending from the Schneekoppe into Bohemia, and pro¬ ceeding at once to Adersbach and its wonderful rocks, S.E. by Klein Aupe Prussia. ROUTE 83. -THE HIES ENG EBIRGE. to Schatzlar (about 4 hrs.), where tlie Burgomaster’s inn is good, and near which the Bober rises from a well in the forest. Thence to Adersbach is a walk of 6 hrs., a beautiful and gratify¬ ing excursion. Or, if he prefer it, there are paths direct from the Schneekoppe to Schmiedeberg ; the time occupied in walking thither is about 5 hrs. The post-roacl from Hirschberg thither passes near the mine of felspar, which supplies material for the Berlin china. Half way between Hirschberg and Schmiedeberg lies Schloss Erdmannsdorf ( Inn , das Schweitze Hans), scat of the late General Gneisenau, now the pro¬ perty of the King of Prussia, who has recently given an asylum and allotted land here to about 400 Tyrolese Pro¬ testants, who were driven out of their native valley, tlie Zillerthal, on account of their faith, by the intolerance of the Bomish priesthood. The houses form- _ iug the colony are built by the Tyrol¬ ese themselves in their own peculiar and picturesque architecture, but the colonists have the character of being lazy and dirty. The Church was built from a design of Schinkel. Here is a large Linen Mill moved by steam. Per¬ sons visiting Erdmannsdorf—and it is well worth visiting—will do well to do so from Warmbrunn and not from Hirschberg. The distance is nearly the same both ways—a walk of 1^ hr.— but the former road is very agreeable, passing through the pretty village of Stohnsdorf, while the latter is a dead flat and rather uninteresting. Fischbach is the beautiful seat of the Prince Win. of Prussia, in a charming situation, about 4 m. E. of Erdmanns¬ dorf. Upon the neighbouring Marianne’s rock is a colossal lion (cross), of cast iron. Further on, near Schmiedeberg, about 1 m. to the rt. of the road, is the Ruhcberg, a country-house of Prince Raclzevil. 2 Schmiedeberg. Luis : Schwarzes Boss, good ; Goldene Sterne ; Deutsches Haus. A manufacturing town, in a pleasant situation, with 3500 Inliab., owing its prosperity chiefly to its ex¬ tensive iron furnaces, mines, &c., with a market-place surrounded by an arcade. FISCHBACH. 445 This is a favourable point from which to ascend the Schneekoppe. The road hence to Landeshut is the highest in Prussia practicable for car¬ riages, rising 2233 ft. It passes through a delightful country, and there are very fine views from near the summit, to¬ wards Schmiedeberg and the Schnee¬ koppe on one side, and towards Land- shut on the other. At the summit, to the northward, and within hr. walk from the road, is the Friesenstein, a group of rocks 2888 ft. above the sea level. The view is magnificent. 2j Landeshut. Inns : Schwarzer Babe, good ; Drci Berge ; Goldener Lowe. Romantically situated at the foot of the Riesengebirge, on the Bober; has 3500 Inhab., considerable bleaching- grounds and manufactures of linen. A bad road from Landeshut to Aders¬ bach by Kloster Griissau, 1 h.’s drive; Sehonberg [Lins, Golden Lowe, small but fair) 1 h. ; Adersbach, If h.; Friedland, 1 h.; Waldenburg, about 9 m. The Ch. of the suppressed Kloster Griissau, is a large 16th-cent. building, containing a large organ and 2 14th-cent. effigies of Bolco Duke of Schweidnitz. Near this the Prussians received a severe defeat June 1760, and 10,000 of them were made prisoners of war, with their General, Fouque, by the Austrians under Mar¬ shal Loudon. [The Rock Labyrinth of Adersbach is situated within the frontier of Bohemia, about 19 m. from Landshut, 17 from Waldenburg, and 12 from Trautenau. The Prussian Custom-house, on the road to it, is at Liebau; the Austrian at Konigshain. Tlie road from Liebau is very bad, and only narrow axles can traverse it at all. Adersbach. Inn , Traiteur Haus, good and clean, but small—delicious mountain trout may be had here. The Rocks of Adersbach are a wonderful as¬ semblage of masses of sandstone, ex¬ tending- in all directions over a space 3 m. broad and 6 or 8 long, separated into fragments of various sizes by openings, gulfs, and fissures. “ They resemble those of the Heuscheuer and Saxon Switzerland, but far surpass them in 446 ROUTE 84. —BRESLAU TO SCHWEIDNITZ. Sect. VI. size and number. You walk, as it were, in a narrow street, with immense smooth walls on each side of you, open¬ ing here and there into squares, whence is obtained a view of the countless num¬ ber of giant rocks which surround you on all sides. This locality does not present the extraordinary natural figures existing at the Heuscheuer: the won¬ der of Adersbach consists in the vast size and number of rocks here clustered together ; and it is very annoying to have the attention diverted every mo¬ ment from the contemplation of them by the pertinacity with which the guide is determined to acquaint you with the names of various rocks, none of which bear the least resemblance to the ob¬ jects after which they arc called, ex¬ cept, perhaps, the ‘ Burgomaster,’ which is curious.”-— T. E. R. The entrance to the rocks is closed by a door, which is opened on payment of 2^ Sgr., and the guide receives from a party 7 or 8 Sgr. The path is in places so narrow that you can walk only in Indian file. A rivulet, clear as silver, traverses the intricacies of the labyrinth, and at the end, or spot where travellers usually turn back (after an hour’s walk), it forms a pretty waterfall, which plays by opening a sluice (!). Near the en¬ trance is a fine echo. By moonlight the aspect of the rocks is highly roman¬ tic. In number the rocks amount to many thousands, and often rise to a height of more than 200 ft., the highest being 280 ft. So numerous and intri¬ cate are the passages among them that they form a complete labyrinth, among which there is danger of losing one's way without a guide. There can be little doubt that the whole was at one time a continuous and solid stratum of sandstone, and that it owes its present form to the passage over it of floods or currents of running water, which, hav¬ ing found their way into the crevices and clefts, have gradually worn down the softer parts into gutters and chan¬ nels. The rocks, like those of the Saxon Switzerland, belong to the formation called by the Germans Quadersandstein, corresponding with the green sand of England. Something of the same sort occurs in the “High Rocks” near Tun¬ bridge Wells. Adersbach is certainly a curiosity without parallel in Europe, and well deserves to be visited.] Landeshut is on the road between Breslau and Prague, described in llte. 84. ROUTE 84. THE MESENGEBIRGE. BRESLAU TO SCHWEIDNITZ, LANDESHUT, ADERSBACH, AND BY TRAUTENAU TO PRAGUE IN BOHEMIA. Railroad from Breslau to Freiburg, 7f Germ. m. = 35^ Eng. m. long, with a branch to Schweidnitz. Trains in 2 hrs. Schnellpost daily from Freiburg. The road is macadamised. Kanth Stat. 14 m. from Breslau, and a few m. to the rt. of the road, is Krieblowitz, where Marshal Blucher lived and died (1819). He is buried in the open air by the roadside, under the shade of 3 lime-trees, as yet without a monument. E. is seen the Zobtenberg, an isolated mountain, rising out of the plain, and commanding a wide prospect over Silesia. Ingramsdorf Stat. Metkau Stat. A personenpost runs daily from the Stat. to Rosenthal (a good and moderate Inn), near Goskau, about 15 m. off, at the foot of the Zob¬ tenberg, the Rigi of Silesia, whose top may be reached in 1-^ hr. walk: it is covered with shattered blocks of granite. The view commands the Moravian and Silesian mountains, the Schneeberg, the Heuscheuer, fortress of Silbcrberg, Rie- senkoppe, and a more picturesque, though not so extensive a panorama as that from the Schneekoppe. Prussia. ROUTE 84. -FREIBURG. ARNAU. 447 Konigszelt Junct. Stat. [Hence the branch Railway runs to Schweidnitz ( Inns : Krone ; Lowe), a beautifully situated town on the Weis- tritz, with 15,300 Inhab. It was for¬ merly a strong fortress, but the greater part of its works were demolished by the French in 1806. The parish Ch., a Gothic building (date 1330), is sur¬ mounted by a tower 320 ft. high. The Castle, formerly the residence of the Piast Dukes, has now become a poor-house.] Freiburg Stat. ( Inn : Burg), a town of 2000 Inhab., having a large steam flax-spinning mill. Omnibus runs from the stat. to Fiirstenstein and Salz- brunn. The Fiirstenstein Grand or Glen is a very picturesque narrow rocky valley, hemmed in by wooded cliffs 300 ft. high, traversed by the Hollen- bach, and not unlike the scenery of the Rosstrappe in the Harz. A winding path leads up to the Alte Burg , an imi¬ tation castle built at the beginning of the present century, containing some old tapestry, armour, and family por¬ traits. Ascending the valley, you come to the modern Schloss Fiirstenstein , seat of Count Hochberg, surrounded by gardens and pleasure-grounds. 9 m. N. is the battle-field of Striegau, gained by Frederick the Great in 1745 ; in the vicinity was his fortified camp of Bunzelwitz. 5 m. from Freiburg are the Baths of Salzbrunn (Tims: Kursaal; Krone ; Sonne), a long village, frequented on account of its alkalo-saline spring, but dull, and scarcely worth stopping at. Waldenburg Stat., 6 m. S. ofFreiberg, is a good station for visiting the rocks of Adersbach , about 17 m. distant. A coach and pair (zweispanner) from Salzbrunn and back costs 4 dollars — to go and return—time 4 h. to and 4 h. back. It is a hilly road, passing 1. the castle of Neuhaus , ruined 1418 in the Hussite war. Beyond Frieclland the road to Adersbach turns 1. W., and the Bohemian frontier is crossed. The Austrian customhouse is at Merkelsdorf. Passports are not required. Riegel’s Inn at Merkelsdorf is fair and cheap; fine trout and good Hungarian wine. Fihcagen to Hirschberg daily, by Landshut, 71 Germ. m. The road from Freiburg to Landeshut is hilly. lj Reichenau. 2 Landeshut ( Inn : Drei Berge). The Austrian and Prussian frontier is crossed beyond Liebau, where the Prussian custom-house stands; the Austrian custom-house is at Kbnigshain. 4 Trautenau.— Inn: Weisses Ross, best, but not very good. The first town in the Austrian territory; Pop. 2400. Much linen is made here. Adersbach is about 12 m. off, in a direct line. 2 Arnau (or Niedcr Ocls) has 2300 Inhab., chiefly weavers. It lies on the Elbe, which takes its rise about 25 m. N. of this, among the roots of the Schneekoppe. A pleasant ex¬ cursion may be made to the source, fol¬ lowing its banlcs, and passing the pretty town of Hohenelbe ( Inn: Schwarzer Adler, middling), and the cascades of Elbfall and Wcisswasser. 2 Neu Paka; the Post. 2 Gitschin.— Inn ; Goldener Lowe. The castle was built by Wallenstein, 1610. 2 Sobotka. 3 Jung-Bunzlau. This town of 5000 Inhab., on the Iser, manufactures much printed cotton. Tycho Brahe died, 1601, in the small town of Non Bena- tek, not far from 2 Alt-Benatek. In the town of Alt Bunzlau, opposite Brandeis, is an image of the Virgin, which attracts many pil¬ grims. At the door of the Collegiate Church, Boleslaw, King of Bohemia, murdered, at the instigation of Drabo- rnira, his brother Wenceslaus, who was afterwards canonised, and now ranks as a patron saint of Bohemia. Beyond this the road crosses the Elbe by a bridge to 2 Brandeis. 3 Prague. Handbook of S. Germany. 448 ROUTE 84 A.—DRESDEN TO ZITTAU. Sect. VI. ROUTE 84 a. DRESDEN TO ZITTAU AND REICIIENBERG, BY IIERRNIIUT. The railroad from Dresden to Bres¬ lau (Itte. 82) is followed as far as Lobau Stat., where a branch railroad, of Germ. m. long, strikes off S. to Herrn- hut, Zittau, and Rcichenberg. lie rrnhut Stat. (Lm, Gemcinlogis; very good) is the mother colony of the sect of Moravians, or Herrnhuters. It was established by fugitives, driven from Austria by the persecution of the Jesuits, 1721-25. They were received by Count Zinzendorf, a Saxon noble¬ man, who granted them an asylum and lands on this spot, and is considered as their founder. Near the highway, in the midst of a wood intersected by pleasant walks, a monument marks the place where he caused the first tree to be felled in 1722, to clear ground for the settlement, the country being then a vast forest. The community derives its name of “ Herrnhuter,” i. e. u the Lord’s watch,” from a passage in the 84th Psalm, “ Den Thiir hiiten in meines Gottes Hause,” — u to watch the door in the house of my God.” It is now a flourishing little formal town, of 1400 Inhab., distinguished by the order, stillness, and cleanliness which prevail in it; situated in the midst of a somewhat tame country of undulating hills, now nearly cleared of wood. It is the seat of a bishop, and the central point of the government and commerce of the sect, which, in 1332, numbered 42 settlements in dif- fci'cnt parts of the world. The Mora¬ vians profess the doctrines of the Con¬ fession of Augsburg; but, excepting their love for music and toleration of dancing, they bear some resemblance to the Quakers, especially in the plain¬ ness of their dress. The female cos¬ tume is distinguished by variously ] coloured ribbons. The girls wear deep > red ; unmarried women pink; married, blue; and widows, grey or white. The meeting-house, the sale-rooms for the articles manufactured here, and the Cemetery of the community on the Ilutbcrg, all deserve to be visited. The ! Cemetery is a very interesting spot, commanding a lovely prospect. It is surrounded by a tall hedge of horn¬ beam, and intersected by avenues of the same, between which are laid the flat gravestones, quite plain, and bearing merely the name, and dates of birth and death. Those of the Zinzendorf family, in the centre, alone are dis- tinguished from the rest by their larger dimensions. That of the founder bears an inscription commemorating his bounty. Above the Friedhof rises the Hutberg , or watch-hill, a sort of cliff or group of rocks, surmounted by a temple or look-out house, commanding a fine panorama,—a wide prospect over the town, the estate bequeathed by Count Zinzendorf to the colony, Berchtolds- dorf, containing the house where he died, and in the distance the hill called the Saxon Crown. The Museum of natural history, col¬ lected by Moravian missionaries in the most distant corners of the earth, is interesting. The Herrnhuters are an industrious community : the linen ma¬ nufacture of Saxony may be said to owe its development to them. Zittau Stat. (Inns ; Sonne, good; Saxischer Hof), a fine and prosperous manufacturing town of 11,000 Inhab., on the Neisse. It is the centre of the linen trade of Saxony ; and in its im¬ mediate vicinity cotton and woollen manufactures are extensively carried on. A splendid modern Rathliaus (1844). and the Byzantine Ch. of St. John , fi¬ nished 1836, are objects of interest. From its proximity to the Bohemian frontier it enjoys a considerable traffic with that country. The mountains which here form the Saxon boundary rise to a commanding height. Less than 5 m. SAV. of Zittau, on the summit of a hill shaped like a bee¬ hive, called Oybin , placed in the midst of a caldron-shaped valley, stand the ruins of a castle and the extensive Prussia. JtOUTE 85.- BRESLAU TO PRAGUE. 449 monastery of Oybin. Here is a beau¬ tiful chapel in the best pointed style, partly cut in the rock, but now a ruin. It stands in a cave or recess in the face of the cliff, and commands an extensive view over forest and valley. The ruins arc easily found, as they are visible from Zittau, and may be reached by a fair walker in about 2 hrs. From Zittau excursions may be made to Wallenstein’s castle Friedland , 9 m. to the E., and to the Baths of Lieb- werda. The Bailway is continued from Zittau up the industrious valley of the Neisse, within Bohemia, to 31 Reichenberg Stat. ( Inn : Goldener Lowe ; middling), the most rising manufacturing town in Bohemia, second to Prague alone in population, having 15,000 Inhab. Its manufac¬ ture of linen is very flourishing and of great importance. This town is connected with Vienna and Prague by Rail, by Beichenau, Turnau, Josephstadt, Koniggratz, and Pardubitz. ROUTE 85. BRESLAU TO GLATZ AND PRAGUE, BY TIIE HEUSCHEUER. 27 Pruss. m. = 125| Eng. m. to the Pardubitz station on the Prague and Vienna railway. Railway branching to Waldenburg and Frankenstein, but the distance between these stations and Glatz and Nachod must bo travelled by coach. The country is pretty and fertile, rt. I he Zobtenberg (see Bte. 81) is con¬ spicuous ; it is about 10 m. distant from Kanth Stat. Konigszclt Janet. Stat. Here railways branch to Liegnitz ; 1. to Freiburg and Waldenburg; rt. to Bcichcnbach and Frankenstein. At Kosemitz are Chryso- prase Mines (now disused), and near Protzen there is a mine of opal. 2 Frankenstein Stat.— Inns : Deut¬ sches Haus; Schwarzer Adler. A town of 6000 Inhab., burnt 1858. 7 m. W. is the mountain fortress of Silberberg; it may be called the Gibraltar of Prussia, in so far as its defences, bastions, case¬ mates, &c., are almost entirely hewn out of the solid rock. They were con¬ structed by Frederick the Great, to guard the passage from Bohemia, at an expense of 4^ millions of Prussian dols. The Bom. Cath. Church , in the mar¬ ket-place of the little town of Wartha (through which the road passes), con¬ tains a miracle-working statue of the Virgin, to whose shrine, in some years, 40,000 pilgrims repair to offer up their vows and prayers. A steep road, marked by chapels, leads up to the chapel on the Wartberg, at a height of 1772 ft. above the sea ; the view from thence is fine. The banks of the river Neisse are very picturesque; near the town it forces a passage through the rocky gorge called Warthapass. After a steep ascent and descent, the road enters Glatz over a wooden bridge, be¬ tween the ancient and modern fortress. A fine view over the basin-shaped val¬ ley forming the county of Glatz, and of Bohemian mountains beyond. 34 Glatz. — Inns: Weisses Boss; Krone ; both in the suburb. A strong fortress on the Neisse, having about 11,000 Inhab., garrison included. A permission from the commandant is ne¬ cessary to view the works. The statue of St. John Nepomuk was placed upon the donjon, by order of Frederick the Great, after he had taken the fortress. Baron Trenck escaped from its dun¬ geons by jumping from the ramparts. 15 m. S.E. of Glatz are the baths of Landeck , in a picturesque country, with an excellent trout-stream running 450 ROUTE 85 A.—BRESLAU TO CRACOW. Sect. VI. through it. Inns: Weisser Lowe; Schlossel; Goldene Krone. The waters are tepid, sulphurous. The town is a mile distant from the Baths; it is a good station for visiting the Sudetic mountains, at the head of which is the Schneeberg , 4412 ft. above the sea- level. 36 m. beyond Landeck, through Jawornik (a had road), is the Water- Cure Establishment of Vincent Priess- nitz at Grafenberg , a village in the Austrian territory, 18 m. from Neisse. 3 Reinerz.— Inns: Goldene Krone ; Schwarzer Bar. A small town of 2100 Inhab., surrounded by mountains. About a mile off, in a secluded valley, are some mineral Baths , not now much frequented. A few miles N. of Reinei’z rises the Heuscheuer , or Heuscheune (Hay-barn, so called from its shape). A vast assemblage of detached masses of rock, many of them formed into the most curious shapes, from the sculp¬ turing of nature, and named after various objects, to which they bear a very exact resemblance. The most perfect likenesses are those of a “ bear,” a “camel,” a “seal” (See- hund), a “Moor’s head,” and a “ laugh¬ ing profile,”—all natural productions. The highest point is the Grossvatersstuhl (Grandfather’s Chair), 2800 ft. above the sea: from it the Carpathians are visible. The key of this very curious mountain is kept at Karlsberg, a little village on the W. side of it. Good ac¬ commodation may be found at the new Schweitzer Haus on the N. slope. Not far from this is the village of Albendorf, remarkable for containing a much frequented Pilgrimage Church, with several minor chapels and sta¬ tions, ornamented with figures of saints, and rude paintings representing the his¬ tory of Christ. In the printed de¬ scriptions of this town it is called a second Jerusalem; and in order to make out a resemblance to the real Jerusalem it has twelve gates; while a stream running through it is called Brook Kedron ; and the pool of Bethesda, the house of St. Anne, and the palace of the High Priest, all have their repre¬ sentatives within the walls. The tra¬ veller puts up or is taken in at the Judgment-hall of Pilato ! The last Prussian village is Lewin; beyond it is the Austrian custom-house. About 4 m. from Lewin, off the road, lies Cudowa, whose mineral springs furnish a chalybeate, very strongly im¬ pregnated with carbonic acid gas. There are 2 lodging-houses and an as¬ sembly-room on the spot. The inha¬ bitants of the village are chiefly de¬ scendants of Bohemian Hussites. 3 Nachod.— Inn : Lamm. The first town in Bohemia; it has 2200 Inhab., chiefly weavers. Its Castle is said by some to be the birthplace of the re¬ nowned Wallenstein; it belonged to his brother-in-law, Terzki, and at their death was confiscated, and bestowed upon the traitor Piccolomini. It com¬ mands a fine view of the whole range of the Riesengebirge. Nachod is a good starting-point to explore these mountains. Near it runs a branch rail¬ way to Pardubitz by, Jaromicrz Stat., on the Elbe. Near this, on the 1. bank of the river, stands the fortress of Josephstadt. — Inn: bei Wesseley, very good. 2\ Koniggratz Stat., ( Inn: Das Goldene Lamm), another frontier fortress, with large barracks for a garrison, and 7500 Inhab., lies on the Elbe. The Ca¬ thedral, and the Church and Convent , which formerly belonged to the Jesuits , are the most remarkable buildings. Much cloth is made here. Koniggratz is only 3f Germ. m. distant from the Pardubitz Junct. Stat. on the Prague and Vienna Railway, whence trains run in 4 hrs. to Prague. Handbook of S. Germany. ROUTE 85 a. BRESLAU TO CRACOW.—RAILWAY. 34£ Germ. m.=160 Eng. m. Trains to Myslowitz in 5—to Cracow in 8 h. This railway, as far as the Prussian and Austrian frontier, is called the Prussia. 451 ROUTE 85 B.-BRESLAU TO VIENNA. Upper Silesian Railway (Oberschlesische Eisenbahn.) Breslau. Route 81. 14 Cattcrn Stat. lit ascends the val- lj Leisewitz Stat. J ley of the Oder. £ Ohlau Stat. (Inn\ Goldeue Krone), on the 1. bank of the Oder, has a palace and a picture gallery. 2£ Brieg Stat. Inn : Goldenes Kreutz. On the 1. bank of the Oder, with 12,000 Inhab. The palace here was formerly the residence of the Dukes of Brieg. A little to the W. is the battle-field of Mollwitz , where Frederick the Great defeated the Austrians, 10 Apr. 1741. From Brieg a branch Ely. runs to the town of Neisse (18,750 Inhab.) Inns: Stern; Krone. 6^ Germ. m. The stations are 3 Grottkau, 3^ Neisse. 4 Germ. m. S. of this on the post-road is Frciwaldau ( Tuns : Kronprinz; Silber Krone), near which is the celebrated Water-Cure Establishment of Grafen- berg , founded by the late V. Priessnitz. There are 5 lodging-houses; charges for rooms 1^ to 3^ florins a-week. Board is charged 42 kr. a-day. 14 Lossen Stat. 1 Lowen Stat. After leaving this the railroad crosses the Neisse and the Oder, just before reaching 3 Oppeln Stat. ( Inns : Schwarzer Ad - ler, good; Sachsischer Hof), the capi¬ tal of Upper Silesia, with 6800 Inhab. ; formerly the residence of the Dukes of Silesia. Here is an old Church. 2f Gogolin Stat. About 1 Germ. m. beyond this station, and at about the same distance from the railroad, is the Annaberg, on the summit of which stands a building, formerly a Franciscan convent, containing a miraculous image. It is a greatly frequented place of pil¬ grimage, especially on St. Anna’s day. The railroad crosses the river Klod- nitz and its canal to 2| Kandrzin Stat. On the opposite bank of the Oder, which is crossed by a wooden bridge, lie the town and fortress of Kosel, 2900 Inhab. At this station the railway which connects the Upper Silesian Railway with the Prague and Vienna Railway turns off S. to Ratibor. (See Rte. 85 b.) The railway to Cracow runs E. up the valley of the Ivlodnitz to 2 Rudzienietz Stat. 2 5 Gleiwitz Stat. (Inn : Adler.) An old town of 9000 Inhab. on the Klod- nitz, in the mining district of Upper Silesia. There are considerable iron¬ works in the town and in the neigh¬ bourhood, also many iron mines. The railway passes on the 1. Zabrzc, where are iron-works, to 2 Konigshiitte ( King's foundry) Stat.: here are large iron-works. The steel- iron works are celebrated in Germany for smelting iron ore by means of coke. There are 80 furnaces, besides 30 zinc furnaces, coal-mines, &c.; rolling mills, foundries. Chimneys rise on all sides. 3 Myslowitz Stat. Beyond this the railway crosses the river Schwarze Przemsa, which was the boundary of Silesia and the territory of the republic of Cracow, and now divides Silesia from the Austrian dominions. At Szczkowa the Railway to Warsaw branches N. 8^ Cracow Stat.— Inns: La Rose Blanche; H. deRussie; Goldener Anker; Konig v. Ungarn. 37,000 Inhab. Since 1846 this has been an Austrian city be¬ longing to the province of Galicia. Up to that time it was a Free Town, and the last remnant of the once great king¬ dom of Poland. (See, for description of Cracow, Handbook of S. Germany.) ROUTE 85 b. BRESLAU TO VIENNA.— RAILWAY. Proceed by the Upper Silesian Rail¬ way (Oberschlesischc Bahn) as far as the Kandrzin or Kosel Stat. (16 Germ, m., 4£ lirs.), as in Rte. 85 A. At Kandrzin a railway, which between this and the Austrian frontier is called 452 ROUTE 85 B.—BRESLAU TO VIENNA. Sect. YI. the Wilhelm's Balm , branches off to the | S. Its length is Germ, m., which is | traversed in 1^ hr. Those parts of Si¬ lesia and Moravia which arc traversed by the railway are very pretty. 2 (Germ. m. from Kandrzin) Ham¬ mer Stat. 2 It at ib or Stat. Inn, Prinz von Preussen. A town of 6000 Inliab., on the Oder, which here becomes navi¬ gable. Persons wishing to divide the journey between Breslau and Vienna may make Itatibor their sleeping quar¬ ters. The Prince of Prussia there is the best hotel. From Breslau to Itati¬ bor will occupy about 6 hrs., from Itatibor to Vienna 12 or 13. 3T Oderberg Junct. Stat. Here is the Austrian frontier. The railway, called the Kaiser-Ferdinands-Nordbahn, con¬ nects this with Vienna. The distance is 37 Germ, m., and the time occupied in the journey 10 hrs. At Prerau this line joins that from Prague by Olmiitz to Vienna. (See, for the rest of this Route, Handbook of S. Germany.) ( 453 ) SECTION VII. SAXONY. Introductory Information,— 52. Money. —53. Posting. ROUTE PAGE 86 . Frankfurt on the Main to Leipzig, by Fulda , Eise¬ nach, Gotha, Erfurt , and Weimar - - - - 454 87. Leipzig to Dresden — Rail¬ way - - - - 466 88 ; The Saxon Switzerland and the Elbe (A). Dresden to Pillnitz , the Bastei, Schan- dan , Kuhstall , Prebischthor, andHirniskretschen— Rail¬ way - - - - 488 90. Dresden to Ilof in Bavaria, by the Valley of Plauen, Frei¬ berg, and Chemnitz — Kail 495 ROUTE PAGE 91. Leipzig to Hof, by Altenburg and Werdau— Railway - 499 91 A. Leipzig to Carlsbad - - 501 92. Cassel to Coburg, by Eisenach and Meiningen — Railway - 501 93. Gottingen to Gotha, Coburg, and Bamberg; the Thnrin- gian Forest:—Baths of Lie- benstein, and Schmalkalden - 504 94. Leipzig to Coburg, by Jena, Rudolstadt, JSonneberg, Pau- linzelle, &c. - 505 94 a. Weimar to Carlsbad, by Jena, Altenburg , and Gera - 507 94 b. Erfurt to Coburg - - 507 52. MONEY. Saxony has now adopted the same currency as Prussia and the other States of the Zollverein (§ 47), of which the dollar is the unit. See § 47. Accounts must be kept in Neugroschen = silver grosehen of Prussia, of which 30 make a thaler. { 2 thaler (j mark silver) | 1 do. (,' T do.) - > See § 47. |—\l of a dollar - J Ilassen Scheme .—Notes of Saxony are in use as well as those of Prussia. The Leipzig and Dresden Railroad Company has also been allowed to issue paper money, but it is not taken at the public offices nor at theatres. Prussian copper money is not current in Saxony, and Prussian notes are refused at the Dresden post-office. Gold Coins. s. d. Augustus, or piece of 5 dollars, = 16 5J Half do. 8 2f Ducat - 9 5 53. POSTING TARIFF. The posting tariff is now the same as in Prussia (§ 48, p. 235). 12 i Neu¬ groschen per horse each German m., and 15 N. gr. for a courier’s horse. The long miles of Saxony are also abandoned for the Prussian mile. 454 ROUTE 86.—FRANKFURT TO LEIPZIG. Sect. VII. ROUTES. ROUTE 86. FRANKFURT ON THE MAIN TO LEIPZIG, BY FULDA, EISENACH,GOTIIA, ERFURT, AND WEIMAR. Post-road from Frankfurt to Eisenach, 23 Germ. m. = 107^ Eng. m. Eilwa¬ gon daily in 21 hrs. By railway from Frankfurt to Cassel and Cassel to Eisenach (Rtes. 70, 92), the journey may he made in 10 hrs., spite of the circuit. Thuringian Railway from Eisenach to Leipzig, 25 Germ.m. = 116§ Eng. m. A rly. is in progress from Hanau, by Fulda, to Gotha. Between Frankfurt and Leipzig this road passes through the territories of 7 different states. About 4 m. from Frankfurt it enters the Electorate of Hesse Cassel. rt. 1 m. The Elector has a chateau near Hanau, called Phillipsruhe , on the banks of the Main. There is a railway from Frankfurt to Hanau ,—trains in £ hr. by the Baths of AYilhelmsbad, oc¬ cupying a deserted chateau in the midst of neglected gardens. They are resorted to by the Frankfurters; their chief attractions are the walks in the wood. 2 Hanau.—Inns : Karlsburg ; Post. This is the most considerable town of Hesse after Cassel, having 15,000 In- hab.; it is situated near the junction of the Einzig with the Main in the most fertile part of the Wet ter au. It was defended by Ramsay, a Scotchman, for 9 months, against the Imperialists in the 30 Years’ War. On quitting the town, the road passes the Battle-field of October 30 and 31, 1813, where Napoleon, retreating from Leipzig with the wreck of his army, cut his way through the Bavarians and Austrians. The loss of the allies exceeded that of the French; it would have been greater, but for the manoeuvre of a miller, who, observing the German infantry hard pressed by a body of French cavalry, suddenly let the water into his mill- stream, between the twopartics, and thus secured the retreat of his own friends. Dollars and groschen here take the place of florins and kreutzers (§ 55), and the posting is paid for in them. 3 Gelnhausen — {Inns: Hirsch ; Ilessischer Hof, a clean country inn) stands on the Ivinzig, and has 3700 Inhab. It was once an Imperial city of note, having been chosen as a residence by the Emp. Frederick Bar- barossa. The ruins of his Palace , built about 1144, still exist on an island in the Einzig, in the lower part of the town, but are fast going to decay. The massive masonry exhibits traces of By¬ zantine architecture; arcades of round arches supported by short pillars with foliated capitals and panelling re¬ sembling basket work. The Imperial Chapel and Reichssaal, where the Diet of 1180 was held, are shown; also “ the throne of Barbarossa,” which appears to be nothing more than the supporting- shafts of a large fireplace which had a projecting hood. The Cathedral also is interesting in an architectural point of view, as it was built 1210-1220, and shows the transition from the Round into the Pointed style, and proves the late introduction into Germany of the Pointed style. It has many peculiar¬ ities, as—a twisted spire, a cupola, a mixture of round and pointed arches, wood-work, and old triptychs, a stone screen, with altar towards the nave. The doorways and capitals of the co¬ lumns are richly ornamented, and the windows are filled with fine stained glass. In the outer wall are inscrip¬ tions recording remarkable events, as the price of grain in years of scarceness, earthquakes, floods, &c. The pass of Gelnhausen is one of the most important military points in Central Germany. ROUTE 8G.—EISENACH. WARTBURG, 455 Saxony. The greater part of the next stage lies through a corner of Bavaria. 2 j Saalniiinster. Inn: Post. 2 Schliichtern. Inn: Goldcne Sonne. [14 m. to the E. lie the Baths of I Briickenau , a much frequented water¬ ing-place. (See Handbook of South Germany, Bte. 169.) The road thither is improved, hut is very hilly. The stage of 3 Germ. m. takes 3^ hrs.; or 11 hrs. from Frankfurt.] 2 Neuhof. 1 | Fulda. — Inns: Kurfiirst (Elector), Post. A town of 14,000 Inhab. (2000 Protestants, 600 Jews), on the Fulda. The principal buildings are, the Ca¬ thedral, a handsome modern edifice, the 4th church which has stood on this site. Nothing remains of the old building hut the crypt, containing the shrine of St. Boniface, in which was once deposited the body of the saint, a much revered relic, now reduced to a fragment of his skull. Here are two old figures of Charlemagne and of a Scottish princess on horseback, said to have been converted and brought over to Germany by St. Boniface; also, in the sacristy, his crosier of ivory, and the dagger with which he was murdered by the Frisians, A. d. 754. The Palace was formerly the resi¬ dence of the prince-bishops, to whom Fulda belonged. A statue of St. Boni¬ face has been erected in the open space before it. St. Michael's is a very curious round church , of high antiquity, founded 822. The existing crypt, probably of that age, is supported in the centre by a stunted column, with a rude Ionic capital; a circular passage surrounds it. The tower and nave were built in 1092. Most of the monasteries have been turned to secular purposes. Eilwagcn daily to Briickenau in 41 lirs., to Cassel, and to Giessen. 2 Hiinfeld. Near the end of this stage the road quits Hesse Cassel, and enters Saxe Weimar. 2 j Buttlar.— Inn , Post; neat and good. Fine views of the broken ridge of the Bhongebirge from this. li Yacha, an old town on the Werra. 21 Marksuhl (Krone). The road now enters upon a portion of the Thiiringerwald (Thuringian Forest); a great portion of the country is covered with unbroken wood. On descending the last hill, to enter Eisenach, the castle of the Wartburg, Luther’s prison, is seen on the summit of a hill on the right. 2 Eisenach. June. Stat.— Inns: *IIal- ber Mond, good; Bautenkranz (Bue Garland). This is the principal town of the Thiiringerwald; it is clean,thriving, and industrious (Pop. 12,000), and is prettily situated, encircled by wooded hills. Sebastian Bach was horn here. The oldest building is the Nicolaithurm, a tower and gate, the arch of which re¬ sembles Boman work, near the railway. The Gardens of M. Eichel are pretty, and command fine views; tickets to see them may he had at his office in the town. A good carriage road, to be sur¬ mounted in ^ hr.’s walk, of con¬ tinued ascent, of 600 ft., leads to the Castle of Wartburg, the ancient residence of the Landgraves of Thuringia, but more remarkable as the asylum of Lu¬ ther from May 4, 1521, to March 6, 1522. It was while returning from the Diet of Worms, where he had so nobly stood forth in defence of his faith, unmoved by threats or cajoling, and had thereby incurred the papal excom¬ munication, that, on reaching the borders of the Thuringian forest, he was way¬ laid by a party of armed and vizored knights, his attendants dispersed, and himself made prisoner. So secretly was the capture effected, that no one knew for a time what had become of him; even Luther himself, it is believed, at the moment of his seizure, was not aware that the whole was merely the device of his friend the Elector of Saxony, adopted with the view of rescuing him from the dangers which at that moment threatened his life. He was silently conveyed away to the Wartburg, where he passed for a young nobleman, wearing a suitable dress, allowing his mustaches to grow, and taking the name of Junker Georg 1 (Squire George). During the time which he spent in this solitude, which he often calls his “ Patmos,” he wrote several works, and completed a large portion of his translation of the Bible. 456 ROUTE 86.—AVARTBURG. GOTHA. Sect. VII* The AVartburg, whose oldest portion, restored to light since 1847, including a long range of Romanesque arcades, dates from 1150, is an extensive, if not picturesque castle, visible from far and near, overlooking a wide range of wild forest-clad hills. The chamber which Luther inhabited is pointed out. His bedstead and chair have been car¬ ried away in chips by visitors as relics. Ilis table lias been preserved from sharing the same fate by a strong iron band. Ho has himself described in his writings the attacks to which he was here sub¬ jected, in his solitary hours, from the Evil One, whom he is reported to have repulsed by throwing the inkstand at his head. The windows of his cell command a beautiful view. Here are portraits of his parents, by I. Cranach the elder, wonderfully truthful. In another division of the castle is a very curious Armoury , in which are several beautiful suits of the 16th and 17th cent., and some attributed to the 13th or 14th. Many of the suits are assigned to great persons, such as Pope Julius II., and Henry II. of France, both finely worked; that of “Frederick with the bitten cheek” (so called because his mother, in the anguish of parting with him when a child, bit his cheek till the blood came), and of Lewis the Leaper. Here are shown the armour of Ivunz of Kau- fungen, a robber knight of gigantic stature, who stole away two of the Saxon princes, and was beheaded at Freiberg; two suits, said to have been worn by Kunegunde and Agnes, Saxon princesses and heroines; the Constable de Bourbon’s armour, which he wore at the moment of his death, while in the act of scaling the walls of Home ; that of Feige von Bomsen; and of many dukes and landgraves of Thu¬ ringia. The AVartburg was the resi¬ dence of the pious St. Elizabeth of Thuringia, who, being discovered by her stingy husband distributing victuals to the poor from her apron, and being asked what she had there, replied, “ Flowers.” The husband, thinking to detect her in a falsehood, tore open the garment, and lo ! flowers fell out. By a miracle, to cover the pious fraud, and reward the lady’s charity, the bread and cheese had been turned into roses and lilies ! In 1207 the Minnesangers (Northern Troubadours) assembled on the AVartburg to hold a trial of skill. In 1817, 500 riotous students collected here from different German universi¬ ties, chiefly from Jena, with several professors, and made some seditious and revolutionary speeches, which led to several arrests. The old castle has been splendidly restored, but to the detriment of its antique character; a curious gallery of arches in the upper story has been opened out, and the interior, its halls and corridors, have been covered with modern fresco-paint¬ ings, by M. v. Schwind, relating to its history. If a pedestrian, you will easily find a handy lad to show you the way, 2 m. from Eisenach, close to the Coburg road, to the Annenthal , a narrow, ro¬ mantic, moss-grown glen, where walls of rock on either hand leave barely room for one person to pass, while beneath gurgles a threadlike stream. The nai'rowest part of the gorge is called Drachenschlucht. Returning a little way, a path on 1. leads up to the AVartburg, from which you descend, on the other side, in half an hour to the town. This walk and the visit to the castle will take up 3 or 4 hrs. It is also accessible in a carriage. Longer excursions , on foot or by carriage, to Landgrafenloch, Hirschstein, AVach- stein. Though the country of Saxe-Eisen¬ ach belongs to AVeimar, it is separated from the rest of that duchy by Saxe- Gotha and a part of Prussia. From Eisenach Railways run to Halle; to Leipzig (Thtiringische Eisen- bahn); to Cassel, to Meiningen, Coburg, and Lichtenfels (Rte. 92). Frottstedt Stat. Gotha Stat.; capital Restaurant, and very clean. Luggage may be left here while the traveller devotes 2 or more lirs. to explore. Inns: Der Mohr (Moor), good, on the outskirts of the town; Deutscher Hof; Der Riese, in the market-place. Gotha, the chief town of the duchy, and, alternately with Coburg, the resi- Saxony. route 86.— gotha. dencc of the Duke of Saxe-Coburg, has a population of 15,856 souls (250 Ro¬ man Catholics). Schloss Friedenstein is a large, but not a handsome building, conspicuous on a height, 1150 ft. above the sea- level, surrounded by terraces com¬ manding fine views. It contains, 1 st, a Picture Gallery , not of first-rate ex¬ cellence, but including many good by Cranach , who lived in the corner house in the Market-place; portraits of Luther and his wife, and Melancthon; Holbein , 2 portraits of the Sulzer family; V. Eyck , portrait of Philip of Burgundy; L. v. Leyden , Judith and Holoferncs; and Dutch pictures, particularly a female portrait by Van cler Heist; Rem¬ brandt's Mother; Rubens' sketches for the Borromeo Ch. at Antwerp; Van Dyk's portrait of himself and of Rubens’ wife; G. Dow, an old woman spinning ; P. Potter , a cattle - piece ; views of Flushing and Fort Lillo, by Van Goyens ; 2 little Saxon princes, supposed to be Ernst and Albert; a screen, with 72 subjects from the Gospels, of A. Diirer’s school; some good small specimens of ancient Florentine painting; and a portrait of Agnes von Mansfeld. The cabinet of engravings is large and excellent. In the Kunstkammer may be seen the swords of Charle¬ magne and Sobieski; the prayer-book of James I. and Anne of Denmark, bound by Cellini; a ring of Mary Stuart; Louis XIY.’s head on an ame¬ thyst ; fine gold-mounted nautili; and some capital figures executed in wood. Among the gems is a Medusa’s head in sardonyx, a cameo with Jupiter and Ceres ; carvings in ivory and wood, &c. 2nd, a Library of 150,000 vols., in¬ cluding a copy of the Gospels, presented by Emp. Otho II. to the convent of Echternach (a.d. 973), remarkable for its Byzantine miniatures and binding ; 2000 MSS. collected in the East by Seet- zen. 3rd, a Museum of Natural History, interesting: the specimens of cheirothe- rium, mammoth, and amber are fine. 4th, Coin and Medals , very extensive and complete; one of the finest collec¬ tions of the kind in Europe. 5th, a Japanese and Chinese Museum , contains many curiosities seldom seen in Eu- [n. g.] EEINHARDSBRUNN. 457 rope; such as rare Chinese and Japan¬ ese books, articles of furniture, wea¬ pons, &c. Among the porcelain are specimens of BotticheFs (of Dresden) first attempts. These collections are shown gratis on Tues. and Frid., 9 to 1 , from April 1 to Oct. 31 : at other times for a fee of 1 dollar. At these times the Gardens and Terraces adjoining the palace, and the Boulevards round the town, are agreeable promenades. In the Ducal Palace is a collection of modem pictures; among them Wapper's (theBel- gian) Charles IX. firing on the Hugue¬ nots, &c. Near it is the Stable (Marstall). The Almanach de Gotha is the title of a pocketbook printed here, which gives the names, ages, and pedigrees of all the reigning princes of Europe and their families. Berghaus’s maps and charts, pub¬ lished by-Perthes, are very excellent. A porcelain manufactory, formerly in some estimation, is carried on hei’e. There are many pleasant Excursions in the neighbourhood. A visit to Reinhardsbrunn (9 m.), a ducal country seat, in the form of a Gothic chateau, erected on the site of an ancient Benedictine abbey, destroyed in the Peasants’ War, 1525, is particularly recommended to strangers who can spare 5 or 6 hours to such a detour. A short way on the road you have a fine view of the Thuringian range. Several curious old monuments of Saxon princes are placed in the Chapel. The country about it resembles a beautiful park. The Lnselsberg, hrs’ walk from this, commands from its top a finer view than any other mountain of the Thuringian range. Schnepfenthal, the celebrated institution for education (Erziehungs Anstalt) of Mr. Salzmann, is on the road. At Siebleben, about m. out of the town, on the way to Erfurt, Grimm, author of the ‘ Correspond¬ ence,’ is buried. On the summit of a hill to the right is seen the Observatory of Seeberg , formerly the residence of Baron Zach, the astronomer. The railway skirts the foot of the hill crowned by the Dietcndorf Stat.: here is a Moravian colony. The Hamster rat increases at times to X 458 ROUTE 86.—ERFURT. LUTHER’S CELL. Sect. VII. such, an enormous extent in the Thii- ringerwald as to become a plague. In 1817-18, 200,000 were taken in the neighbourhood of Gotha. On the rt. may he seen the 3 castles called the Drei Gleichen. They are of great antiquity, and belonged to differ¬ ent owners, hut were all struck with lightning in 1250. Muhlberg is a total ruin, except its donjon tower. Gleichen is in a better state of preservation, the roof remaining in part: the Wachsenburg is still entire. They are situated in the most beautiful part of Thuringia. Beyond this, about half-way between Gotha and Erfurt, we cross the bomi- dary of Prussia. At a little distance from the walls of Erfurt the strong- citadel of Cyriaksburg is passed. Erfurt Stat.— Inns : *Silber’s Hotel; am Bahnof, near the Stat., good and well conducted; zum Kaiser, great civi¬ lity ; Weisses Boss. This very old town was at one time capital of Thuringia (Thiiringen); it now belongs to Prus¬ sia, and is a fortress of second class, very important from its situation on the great high road of Central Europe. The fort Petersberg within the walls, and the citadel of Cyriaksburg without, contribute to its strength. It stands on the Gera (famous for watercresses), over which are several bridges. Its streets are wide and full of interesting old houses, with carved fronts. It has 8 Roman Catholic, and 9 Lutheran churches, yet its population has shrunk to 37,000; little more than half of what it once possessed (7000 Rom. Catholics). It has a garrison of 4000 men. The Dorn (Cathedral), on an eminence, is a fine Gothic structure, well restored. It occupies the site of a wooden Ch. built by St. Boniface 752. The chief feature is the choir, b. 1353, wider than the central aisle of the nave, and not on a line with it. The nave, h. 1472, has side aisles wider than the centre, and is partly separated from the choir by the 2 stately towers of the 12th cent. In the N. one hangs the famous hell, called Grosse Susanna, weighing 27 5 cwt., much ornamented and dated 1447. Observe the N. portal, leading into the tran¬ sept, and forming a triangular porch, resembling the porch of Ratishon, en¬ riched with statues, reliefs, and tracery —the altars on the 1. as you enter are very elegant—a bronze bas-relief, at¬ tached to the monument of Canon Hen¬ ning Goden (d. 1522), of the Coronation of the Virgin, by Peter Vischer of Nu¬ remberg, a highly finished work—the monument of Ernst Count von Gleichen with his 2 wives, 12th centy. The floor is inlaid with monumental stone carved in relief, with effigies of monks and abbots, now barbarously covered with pews. Within the choir is very fine painted glass and an old bronze candelabrum, representing a penitent holding tapers, with an inscription not satisfactorily explained. The stalls are partly ancient. The pulpit is modern, by Schinkel. There is a very good Holy Family, by L. Cranach , and another painting, with date 1534, on the door of a reliquary in the wall. The cloisters display a range of tracery of 13th and 14th cents. The view from the top of the tower will well repay for the ascent. In the Barfusset'hirche is a carved and painted altarpiece of the Coro¬ nation of the Virgin, with statues of the Apostles. In the Church of St. Severus , distinguished by its 3 spires, near the Dom, over an altar, is a fine high relief of the archangel Michael, of excellent workmanship, and a richly decorated font, with a tall cover 30 ft. high, a remarkable example of inter¬ penetration or stump tracery, date 1467. One object of particular historic in¬ terest here is Luther’s Cell in the Augustine convent. The building is now converted into an Orphan House, called Martinsstift , but bis apartment is preserved as nearly as possible in its original condition, and contains his portrait, Bible, and other relics. He entered the convent as a monk, July 17, 1505, in consequence of a vow madd 14 days before, on the death of a friend who was struck by lightning at bis side. Here be spent several years of his life: at the altar in the chapel ho read his first mass, and here, per¬ haps in this very cell, he first studied the Bible, of which he neycr saw a Saxony . route 86.—weimar. copy until he was 20 years old, when he picked one up, by accident, in a corner of the library. In the Fishmarket, in front of the Rathhaus (erected 1259,) stands a Ro- landsdule. The fortifications, and the Walks outside of these, command fine views of the town and its numerous spires. The Steiger is the most fre¬ quented walk; you reach it through market-gardens, singularly irrigated. Schropp’s models of Gothic build¬ ings, &c., are worth seeing. The University of Erfurt was sup¬ pressed in 1816, and of the numerous convents which existed here till very recently one only remains, the Ursuline Nunnery. It is worth visiting, as an interesting specimen of a monastic esta¬ blishment. The sisters employ them¬ selves in teaching a school. From the 14th to the 16th cent. Erfurt was a Hanse Town, and a staple place of the trade of a great part of Europe. The main commercial high¬ way between the Baltic and the Hanse Towns on the one hand, and Italy and Venice on the other, lay through Augs¬ burg, Nuremberg, Erfurt, and Bruns¬ wick, to Lubeck and Danzig. A congress of sovereigns was assem¬ bled at Erfurt , 1807, by Napoleon, who resided in the palace of Count Dalberg. The Electors of Mayence were Stadt- holders of Erfurt at one time. Erfurt is entered and quitted by 2 short tunnels under the fortifications. Shortly after the railroad leaves the Prussian dominions, and enters Saxe- W eimar. Weimar Stat.— Inns: Erbprinz, im¬ proved; Itussischer Hof, best; Ele¬ phant. Weimar, situated on the Ilm, is the residence of the Grand Duke of Saxe-Weimar, and capital of his do¬ minions; it has 14,000 Inhab. To a stranger it will appear a dull and provincial-looking town. It has no trade to give it activity, nor can the presence of a court supply this want. ■ It has also lost its claim to its former appellation of The Athens of the North since the deaths of Schiller, Gothe, Wieland, Herder, and other men of genius and learning, who, though not palace. Library. 459 natives of the duchy, resided here by invitation of the former Grand Duke, and conferred a lustre on his court and capital. There are few sights at Weimar to detain a traveller. The chief buildings are the Stadtkirche (town ch., built 1400). The altar-piece of the Cruci¬ fixion, by Lucas Cranach , is one of his finest works; it contains portraits ot the artist himself near the cross, and of his friends Luther and Melanchthon : 44 members of the Ducal Family of Saxe Weimar are interred here. The most illustrious among them is the Grand Duke Bernard, the brave general of the Thirty Years’ War, the ally of Gustavus Adolphus, and second to him only among all the Protestant leaders. His grave has no other distinction than a simple brass plate. A tablet in the pavement bearing the name of Herder , marks the spot where that eminent writer is buried, and a bronze statue of him, by Schaller, stands in front of the Ch. He lived in a corner house, close to (N. of) the Ch. In the Cemetery of the Schloss Kirche, or Ch. of St. James , is the tomb of Lucas Cranach (d. 1553). The mason who carved his epitaph has written pictor celerrimus , instead of celeherri - mus; it can hardly be said by mistake, because both epithets are equally de¬ served. In the same place are the graves of Musseus the poet (d. 1787), and of Bodoeus. The Palace is a handsome building, tastefully furnished, but not otherwise remarkable. A suit of apartments has been decorated by modern artists, Neher, Preller, &c., with frescoes, illustrating the works of Schiller, Gothe, Herder, and Wieland. Duke Bernard’s armour is kept in one of the rooms; and be¬ side it, in a box, one of his fingers, which was cut off in an encounter with an enemy, and afterwards preserved and carried about by its owner. Near the palace is the Public Library , in a circular tower, once a powder- magazine. Within it are several por¬ traits of eminent persons by L. Cranach and other artists; colossal busts of Schiller, by Dannecker , and of Gothe, by David ; busts of Herder and Wie- 460 ROUTE 86.—JENA. KOSEN. Sect. VII. land. There are also a few relics of great men, such as the black gown worn by Luther w’hen a monk; Gus- tavus Adolphus’s leather belt, pierced by the bullet which caused his death at Liitzen. In the market-place is a hand¬ some Gothic Rathliaus, built 1841. The house of Gothe, in which he died (1832), is in the Gothe- or Frauen- platz. It has been let by his family, and is closed to the public. The interesting relics of him, and the col¬ lections which he left behind, are shown however on Friday. His furniture was of a homely descrip¬ tion : in his study were a common deal table (at which he wrote, which be¬ longed to Schiller), his desk, and stool. He never had an arm-chair until he was 80. His drawing-room was deco¬ rated with casts from the antique, with models and drawings by the old mas¬ ters. The small house of Schiller is also in the Esplanade, or Schillerstrasse. The Statues of Gothe and Schiller, erected 1857, opposite the theatre, are by Rietschel —that of Herder by Schaller, near the Stadtkirche—that of Wieland by Gassert, on the Frauenplatz. There is also an imposing monument to the Duke Carl August, by Hdhnel. The Theatre was once under Gothe’s and Schiller’s management. The per¬ formances and music are still tolerable. The audience has the character of a large family party: females come and go unattended, and ladies need appear in no finer costume than a bonnet and morning dress. The play is generally over by nine. In the New Churchyard , beyond the Frauenthor, beneath a small chapel, is the Grand Ducal burial-vault. Gothe and Schiller are here interred. The Duke Charles Augustus, their patron and friend, intended that their re¬ mains should have been deposited on each side of him, but it appeared that courtly etiquette would not permit this proximity, and they have therefore been placed in one corner, at a respectful distance. Hummel the composer is also buried here. The apparatus used to prevent premature interment is curious (§ 45), and should be seen. The grounds belonging to the Palace are laid out in a Park and Gardens , ex¬ tending along the pleasant banks of the Ilm. They are much esteemed by the inhabitants as a promenade. Within them is situated the summer residence of Gothe. The park communicates, by an avenue, with the summer villa called Belvedere (2 m.), commanding a fine view, and having a hothouse, con¬ servatory, and fine garden attached to it. Another chateau of the Grand Duke is prettily situated at Tieffurt: It is worth a visit. It contains an im¬ mense quantity of rococo of all descrip¬ tions. The kitchen is lined with old Dutch tiles, and the dressers covered with all sorts of game, fruit, fish, &c., in porcelain, delf, and papier-mache. Eilwagen daily to Jena, Gera, and Altenburg. About 12 m. E. of Weimar is Jena , remarkable for its University . (See Rte. 94 a.) The river Ilm is crossed, and rt. in the hollow is seen Ossmandstadt , where Wieland the poet lies buried in his garden (d. 1813) by the side of his wife and his friend Sophie Brentano. Apolda Stat. A modern manufactur¬ ing town, where cotton stockings are made. Omnibus and coaches to Jena. The field of the battle of Auerstadt, or Jena , so disastrous to Prussia, 14 Oct. 1806, lies near Hassenhausen, 3 m. S. of the railroad, between the Apolda Stat. and Naumburg. A small pillar has been erected by the King of Prussia in a field to the S. of the road, between Eckhardsberge and Naumburg, to mark the spot where the Duke of Brunswick was mortally wounded. Suiza Stat. Some way beyond this the Duchy of Saxe Weimar terminates, and Prussia is entered. Between Suiza and Naumburg the Railroad traverses the narrow and pic¬ turesque defile of the Saale. In it are situated the salt-works, baths, and mineral springs of Kosen Stat., where is a good re¬ staurant (Inn, Bitter), the approach to which is singular and picturesque; on the right, high above the Saale, is the Castle Saaleck. The baths are sup¬ plied from the brine, or mother liquor, left in the pans when nearly all the salt has been extracted. 461 Saxony, route 86.—naumburg. Close to the railroad lies the curious village Scliulpforta, whose Church is a noble Gothic building (the choir, 1251- 68), and in whose School , 300 years old, Klopstock and Lessing were educated. 2~ Naurriburg Stat., at some distance from the town. Inns: Sachsischer Ilof, in the town; Preussischer Hof, good, in the suburbs. Naunflmrg is an industrious town of 14,000 Inhab., beautifully situated in the valley of the Saale, in the midst of an amphitheatre of hills covered with vines and dotted with country-houses. The Cathedral is a remarkable Gothic edifice, with double choir at the E. and W. ends. The nave (b. 1209-42), transepts, crypt, and part of towers are Romanesque. The W. choir is Pointed in the purest style; the statues of the founders against the pillars are very fine works of the 13th century. The W. roodloft is also of the best period of the pointed Gothic. The crucifix is placed underneath, in the doorway ; the front is ornamented with bas-reliefs. The E. choir is Dec. in style, later than the W. end, and con¬ tains a Romanesque Roodloft with round arches, a rare example of the style. The whole Ch. and its contents, monuments, sculptures, painted glass, and books, are well worth study. In the Ch. of St. Wenzel (Stadtkirche) is a picture of Christ blessing the chil¬ dren, by Cranach. Naumburg was a place of great im¬ portance during the Thirty Years’ War, and in the campaigns of 1806 and 1813. Here were the Prussian magazines. Napoleon having turned the flank of the Prussian army, seized the town, and this proved one of the main causes of the disastrous defeat at Jena. This town was again occupied by the French, previously to the battle of Liitzen, 1 May 1813, and its possession was long and fiercely contested between the French and Russians. After the rout of Leipzig, the Allies having occupied Naumburg, Napoleon was obliged to turn aside towards Freiburg, on the Unstrut, out of the main road, the de¬ files near Naumburg being occupied with cannon. Naumburg and Weissenfels are among the most northern points in WEISSENFELS. ROSSBACH. Europe where Vinegar as are planted; but the greater part of the wine pro¬ duced from them so nearly resembles vinegar, that it is chiefly profitable when sold as such, or when distilled to make brandy. The castles of Schonburg and Go- seck are seen on the left, before reach¬ ing 2J; Weissenfels Junct. Stat. In a country-house near the Stat., marked with an N., Napoleon slept the night after the battle of Leipzig. Inns: Drei Schwane, good ; zum Scliiitzen, good. A town of 11,000 Inhab., on the Saale. The many-windowed Schloss on the height to the S.W. of the town, formerly the residence of the Dukes of Weissenfels, is now a barrack. The dead body of Gustavus Adolphus was brought hither after the battle of Liitzen, and embalmed in a room of the Town-house (Amtshaus ), in the presence of Bernard of Saxe Weimar. It is re¬ corded that his heart weighed 1 lb. 2 oz. ; that the body bore the marks of 8 wounds, i. e. 5 gunshots, 2 cuts, 1 stab. A part of the wall, which was stained with his blood, is still preserved from external contact. His widowed queen repaired hither to receive the body. The heart was instantly con¬ veyed to Stockholm. [Branch Rly. to Gera, a manufac¬ turing town of 12,000 Inhab., by Zeitz and Kostritz.] Corbetha Junct. Stat There is a Railway direct from Weissenfels to Leipzig. About 5 m. W. of this is Rossbach , the scene of one of Fre¬ derick the Great’s most memorable and unexpected victories, which he gained with an army of only 22,000 Prussians over 60,000 French and Austrians under Soubise, Nov. 5,1757. The King directed his manoeuvres, previously un¬ rivalled in military tactics, from the castle of Rossbach. From the ridge on which it stands he despatched Sedlitz, at the head of his cavalry, to sweep down the French in successive charges, so as to drive them from the field in less than half an hour. The enemy, previously certain of victory, had directed their chief efforts to prevent the escape of Frederick, and had 462 ROUTE 86.—LUTZEN. Sect. VII. weakened their line by so doing, which caused their defeat. [From Corbetha a lily, branches to Halle by 2£ Merseburg Stat. {Inns: Sonne, Arm; Hof.) A town of 12,000 Inhab.; has a picturesque Castle , chiefly of the 15th centy., once the residence of the Saxon princes, overlooking the river. Within it stands the Cathedral , chiefly of plain early pointed, lancet windows, but the nave is late; piers without capitals. It is rich in monuments ; that of Hudolph of Swabia (d. 1080), a bronze plate in low relief, re¬ presenting him in imperial attire, is probably the oldest mediaeval effigy ex¬ tant. In the N. transept the altar-tomb of Bishop Tilo v. Throthe (d. 1514), bearing a brass effigy, and on the wall above, one kneeling in prayer. The bishop is said to have wrongfully put to death a servant for stealing a ring, whereas the real thief was a raven. For this cause he took the raven and ring as his crest, and for this a live raven is still maintained in a cage in the castle- court. On the wall of the ante-nave is a bronze of Bishop Lindenau, by Peter Vischer , and a font on which are figures of the Prophets carrying the Evange¬ lists on their shoulders. In the choir are pictures by Cranach , and in the sacristy Empress Ivunigunda’s mantle and the dried hand of the Emperor Rudolph, cut off in the battle of the Elster, where he was slain. 2 Halle Junction Stat. Railroad thence to Leipzig. (See Rtc. 63.)] The Railway to Leipzig from Wcis- senfels, avoiding the circuit by Halle, passes near Liitzen. In the defile of Rippach, 3 m. from Liitzen, Marshal Bessieres was killed in a skirmish the day before the battle of 2nd May, 1813. Liitzen. Inns not good. A small village, whose name would never have been heard of, but for the great battles fought in its vicinity.' About a mile out of the town, by the side of the high road to Leipzig, a rude unsquared block of granite, one of the most south¬ ern of those mysterious boulders which have been transported from the moun¬ tains of Scandinavia, is set up, shaded by a few poplars, and further distin¬ guished by a Gothic canopy of cast iron, raised over it in 1838. This is called the stone of the Swede ( Schwe - denstein ), and marks the spot where Gustavus Adolphus fell, in the midst of the battle of Liitzen, 6 Nov. 1632. This was one of the most fiercely con¬ tested engagements recorded in history. In the course of it, riccolomini had seven horses killed under him, and Pappcnheim was mortally wounded, and died the next day at Leipzig, while their colleague, the Imperial General¬ issimo Wallenstein rode unhurt through a shower of balls. The Swedish cavalry fought long and bravely for the possession of the corse of their sove¬ reign, and at last bore it off triumph¬ antly to the church of the neighbouring village of Meuchen. Liitzen is also memorable for a more recent battle, fought on the 2nd of May, 1813, between Napoleon and the Allies. The former maintained possession of the field, but gained no other material advantage, after a bloody engagement. The Prussian General Scharnhorst died of a Avound received on this occasion ; Bliicher was also severely wounded. The Prussians have named this battle after the village of Gross-Gorschen, a little to the S. of Liitzen, and near which the field of battle lies. This was the first occasion in which they measured their strength successfully with the French, after the fatal battle of Jena. The campaign of 1813 was fought over a great portion of the same ground as that of 1806 ; the same posts were contested and defended, but with very different results. Napoleon, who was successful in the first instance, suf¬ fered, in the neighbourhood of Leip¬ zig, the most decisive defeat, on the 2nd occasion. The operations of that memorable battle of the 17th, 18th, and 19th of October, 1813, extended to a distance of nearly 10 m. on all sides of Leipzig. The river Saal is crossed. Diirrenberg Stat.—Near this are salt¬ works. ROUTE 86.—LEIPZIG. UNIVERSITY. 463 Saxony. The Prussian territory terminates. Markt-Ranstadt Stat. is the first town in Saxony. In the castle of Alt- Ranstadt Charles XII. fixed his head¬ quarters after the conquest of Saxony by his army and the dethronement of Augustus. Hence he called on the cabinets, of Europe to acknowledge Stanislaus Lcczinsky, the monarch whom he had placed on the throne. The Duke of Marlborough here visited the youthful monarch on a secret mis¬ sion, and complimented him by ex¬ pressing a wish to serve a campaign under so great a general. Leipzig Thuringian Rly. Terminus. Leipzig. — Inns : H. deRussie, good; H. de Baviere: H. de Prusse, Na¬ poleon’s quarters 1813, perhaps the best; is well situated. 2nd-class inns : Stadt Rom, near the Dresden Rly.; During the Fair the charge for a room is doubled. Felsche’s Cafe Francais on the Augustus Platz. Omnibuses from the different inns to the railways—charge 5 s. gr. Fiacres ply also. Leipzig is built on the small rivers Elster and Pleisse, and has 80,000 Inhab. ; it is a place of considerable historical celebrity, and of greater commercial importance, and more real business than most continental towns; evidence of which is seen in its bustling- streets by the traveller, especially if he happens to visit it during the Fair. The town, formerly confined within walls, has removed its gates, and thrown out fine suburbs beyond— proof of increasing prosperity. About 1000 new houses were built between 1840-51. There is nothing more agreeable here than the Garden Walks , (Spazier- gange) which occupy the site of the old city walls, and divide it from its modern suburb. These shady walks are beset with statues and monuments of eminent men, and in some instances they expand into squares ; such is the Augustus Platz , the most spacious in Leipsig. Here are the Augusteum or University , the Post-office , the Mu¬ seum, Sc c. Leipzig is celebrated for its University , the oldest in Germany after that of Prague, having been founded in 1409 by German seceders from thence. The University building, called Augusteum , on the Augustus Platz, is the finest in Leipzig: it was finished 1836, from Schinkel’s design. The Hall {Aula) is decorated with some fine sculptures, statues, busts, and a scries of bas-reliefs } illustrating the progress of civilization, by Rietschcl, and contains the Library of 100,000 vols., including a beautifully illuminated Hebrew MS. 12t.h cent., a collection of autographs (letter of Sir T. More to Erasmus), early woodcuts and block books. The museums of natural history and anatomy are depo¬ sited in the Paulinum. The University numbers about 60 professors, 70 private teachers, and 800 students. It is one of the few scholastic establishments on the Continent which has retained its own landed estates, most of the others having been stripped, and being now supported by annual grants. In other respects, also, it resembles our English universities; “commons” being kept for 300 students, who demand it on the plea of poverty, with a small additional subscription of 2 gros. a week 11 for pepper , vinegar , and salt ” from those who participate. The Town Library , in a very long and striking room, besides European works, has a remarkable collection of Oriental MSS. ; many Turkish books obtained by the Germans in their vic¬ tories over the Turks in Hungary, such as pay lists, officers’ commissions, dating from 1683, when Sobieski res¬ cued Vienna; a portion of an almost unequalled Koran which belonged to a mosque at Sultanieh, and another brought from a mosque at Buda, when that city was Mahommedan. The churches are not remarkable. St. Nicholas dates from 1525, but its architecture is of questionable taste. It has palm-tree piers and pointed arches. In a corner, thrust aside, is a fine Gothic stone pulpit. The pictures of tUser are not very interesting. The Catholic Ch., from designs of Heideloff, 1846, is a fair specimen of modern Gothic, The altarpiece is by Vogel, 464 ROUTE 86.-LEIPZIG. BATTLE. Sect. VII. The GreatMarket-place is picturesque, from the quaint architecture of its buildings, particularly of the Town House (Eathhaus) built 1556, on one side of it. In this square the allied sovereigns met after the battle of Leip¬ zig. The Konigshaus , formerly in¬ habited by the Electors and Kings of Saxony on their visits to the town, was occupied by Napoleon during the battle ; here he had his last interview with the king, who was afterwards de¬ tained prisoner in it by the Allies as an adherent of Napoleon, and here Marshal Schwarzenberg, the general of the allied army, died in 1820. Auerbach's Cellar , a vault under an old house in the Grimmaische Str., near the market-place, where beer and wine are sold, and where, according to tradi¬ tion, the famous magician, Dr. Faustus, performed his feats, which are repre¬ sented in paintings on the walls, of the XVIth cent. Gothe has laid in this cellar a scene of his tragedy of Faust, in which the drunken students are sup¬ plied by Mepliistophiles with various kinds of wine, out of holes bored with a gimlet in the table. It is said that the poet, as well as his hero, not un- frequently caroused here while a stu¬ dent. The lover of art may visit with plea¬ sure the collection of pictures in the Stacltische Museum , a handsome build¬ ing on the Augustus Platz—open Sun¬ days and holidays, 11-3; Tuesdays and Fridays, 10-4; at other times by tickets. Obs. Lucas Cranach’s Nullity of Good Works, a curious effort of a Protestant painter. The collection is strong in works of the modern French and German schools: P. Delaroche, Na¬ poleon at Fontainebleau; 4 fine land¬ scapes by Calame , Storm at Sea, by Gudin; Cattle, by Brascassels ; Flock of Sheep, by Verbockhoven; and some works of the old masters, Murillo , Kembrandt, and others. Here is also a fine collection of engravings and prints. The Castle of Pleissenburg, the an¬ cient citadel which occupied the S.E. angle of the city walls, withstood the attacks of Tilly during the Thirty Years’ War, several weeks after the town had surrendered. The lower part of it is now turned into a wool warehouse, and the tower into an Observatory , from the top of which a good view may be obtained of the town. The surrounding country is flat, but it is interesting as the scene of the memorable Battle of Leipzig , distinguished by the Germans as the Volkerschlacht, “ Battle of the Na¬ tions,” fought on the 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th October, 1813. It was one of the longest, sternest, and bloodiest ac¬ tions of the war, and one of the largest battles recorded in history, from the number of ti’oops engaged, amounting to 176,000 on the side of Napoleon, and 300,000 on that of the Allies, with 1600 cannon, and the space of ground over which the operations extended; and it decided the fate of Europe. After the conflict had raged for 3 days in the vicinity of Leipzig, on the 19th it reached up to the very walls, and cannon-balls fell in showers in the streets. On the morning of that day Napoleon and part of his army passed through the toAvn, quitting it on one side almost at the moment when the Allies entered it on the other. Indeed it is doubtful whether the emperor himself would have escaped, but for the bravery of Macdonald and Ponia- towski in covering his retreat, and for the premature blowing up of the bridge over the Elster beyond the Banstadt gate, at the moment when many of the French troops were in the act of passing, and 25,000 remained behind. This event, whether designed or accidental, caused the death of Poniatowski, and many hundreds of less note. The spot where he was drowned may be discerned from the tower, in a Garden , near the Fleischer Platz, now nearly sur¬ rounded by houses. It is marked by a humble stone monument close to the margin of the Elster, a mere ditch in size, but at the time of the battle so choked up with bodies of men and horses, dead, dying, or strug¬ gling to cross, that the sorry steed on which he was mounted, his own having been killed under him, was unable to swim among them. The brave Pole, already twice wounded, and borne down ROUTE 86.—LEIPZIG. 465 Saxony. in the throng, sank in attempting the passage. Macdonald, better mounted, passed it in safety nearly at the same spot. In another part of the garden is a stone tomb, with inscriptions in Polish and Latin, erected by the soldiers of his regiment to their commander, on the spot where his body was found 4 days after. Here is a model of Thorwald- sen’s statue of him; the original, set up at Warsaw, has disappeared. The road to Grimma (towards the S.E.) leads over the most interesting portion of the field of battle. Napoleon remained the whole day on an eminence rt. of the road, near Stotteritz, now marked by a clump of trees. Propstheide, a village 1 m. further, was the key of the French position. An iron obelisk on a mound marks the place of meeting of the 3 allied monarchs, and a block of granite on another not far off was raised to the memory of Prince Schwarzenburg. Na¬ poleon carried off to the Rhine only 90,000 of his army. The Austrians lost 7000, the Russians 22,000, and the Prussians 15,000 killed and wounded. 1600 guns were brought into the battle on both sides. The Allies were aided by a British rocket-corps, whose commander, Captain Bowyer, R.A., was killed, and is buried in the ch.- yard of Taucha. The keeper of the Observatory will give every information respecting the battle, and point out all the interesting spots. The best account, with plans of the battle, is that by the late Sir Geo. Cathcart. In the Johcmnis Kirchoff , behind the Ch. of St. John, to the E. of the Augustus Platz, are the graves of many who fell in the battle on this spot, the Ch. and churchyard having been con¬ tended for at the point of the bayonet. Here also is the grave of Gellert the poet (against the Ch. wall), of Spohn the oriental scholar, Rosenmuller, Politz, &c. In the Gardens round the town, or boulevard, (the entire circuit of these walks may be made in of an hour) are placed monuments of Prof. Gel¬ lert (a bas-relief), statues of Hiller, composer; and of Thaer the agriculturist. In the Kbnigsplatz, a statue of Ring Frederick Augustus of Saxony (d. 1827); of Sebastian Bach the composer, erected near St. Thomas’s school, of which he was precentor, by Felix Men¬ delssohn;—and on the Theater Platz, a sitting bronze figure of Hahnemann the homoeopathist.* Rosenthal , a park outside the town, to the N.W., is much frequented in summer, when concerts are given almost daily in the two cafes. Leibnitz, the philosopher, who was a native of Leip¬ zig, used to study and meditate here. Leipzig is famed for 2 delicacies of the table, larks and apples; the last are named from the neighbouring village of Borsdorf. A British Consul - General resides here (Mr. Crowe). Three Fairs are held here annually ; —at Easter (Oster Messe, beginning on the 2nd Sunday after Easter), which is the most important. At Michaelmas (beginning 1st Sunday after Michaelmas day), and the Neujahr Messe (begin¬ ning on New Year’s day), the least im¬ portant. They last three weeks, and while they continue, Leipzig is the mart and exchange of central Europe, and is visited by merchants and foreigners from the most distant parts of the globe, sometimes to the number of its actual population. The money transactions at one time amounted to 80 millions of dollars annually, though of late they have fallen short of this sum. The streets and squares are then occupied by temporary booths, in addi¬ tion to the ordinary shops, in which goods of all kinds are exposed for sale. Every hotel and lodging-house is filled to overflowing; the streets are thronged with strange costumes and faces ; Jews from Poland, Tyrolese, Americans, and even Persians from Teflis, Armenians, Turks, and Greeks, are mingled to¬ gether as in a masquerade, and most of the countries of Europe send representa¬ tives hither with their produce. 300 or 400 guests sit down daily to the tables- d’hote of some of the principal hotels; gardens and coffee-houses are thronged. The sale of books forms one of the most important branches of commerce here; it alone is said to amount to 10 * N.B.—Homoeopathic medicines may be bought here far cheaper than in England. x 3 466 ROUTE 87 . — LEIPZIG TO DRESDEN. Sect. VII. millions of francs yearly. In fact, the whole hook-trade of Germany is centred on the spot, and every bookseller in Germany and the adjoining- countries has an agent here. 600 booksellers sometimes assemble at the Easter Fair, to settle their annual accounts and pur¬ chases, and there are 130 residents and 40 printing-offices. They have an Ex¬ change of their own, called the Deutsche BuchJiandler Borse, where they meet and transact business. The sale of pianos is also enormous, one considerable quarter being occupied by the manufacturers of these instru¬ ments. The shop of Mr. Friedrich Fleischer is well situated, and furnished with the best European literature in various lan¬ guages, including Guides for Travellers. Baron Speck , at his seat Liitzschena, 5 m. from Leipzig, possesses some very fine pictures:—a repetition of Raphael’s Joanna of Aragon ; Fr. Francia , Ma¬ donna and Child; Hemling's (?) Saluta¬ tion ; Rubens , Portrait of a Prior ; Rem¬ brandt, a portrait; Y. dcr Heist, por¬ trait of a female ; Murillo , Madonna and Child; Diirer, portrait of a young woman, 1497. Many good pictures of the Dutch and modern German schools. Railroads. —Termini on the N.E. side of the town—1. to Magdeburg; 2. to Berlin; 3. to Dresden ; 4. Thuringian Ply., to Eisenach and Cassel. Termi¬ nus on the S. side of the town— (Baierischcr Bahnhof)—to Hof, Bam¬ berg, Zwickau, and Nuremberg. POUTE 87. LEIPZIG TO DRESDEN.—RAILROAD. 15| Germ. m.=72 Eng. m. Trains in 3 hours. Express in 2~. Terminus Bahnhof Strasse, at the N.E. side of Leipzig. The Railroad, on quitting Leipzig, traverses a portion of the Battle-field of 1813 (Pte. 86). During an engagement between Ney and the Crown Prince of Sweden, near the village of Paunsdorf on the post-road, the Saxons went over to the side of the Allies. 1. Borsdorf, famed for its apples, is passed. The river Mulda is crossed by a bridge of 19 arches, shortly before reaching 3^ Wurzen Stat., a town of 3000 Inli ah. 24 Luppa Dahlen Stat. The vale of DOllnitz is traversed on a lofty viaduct on approaching- lj Oschatz Stat. (Am, Lowe), a town of 5000 Inhab., surrounded by ancient fortifications. Its Church —rebuilt after a fire in 1842, from HeidclofF’s designs —has two tall towers with open spires, 276 ft. high. In the neighbouring Chateau of Hubertsburg the treaty of peace, which terminated the Seven Years’ War, was concluded, 1763, be¬ tween Frederick the Great and the Em¬ press Maria Theresa. The building is now a Penitentiary. 2 Riesa Junction Stat. (Good Re¬ staurant.) Here is the junction of the railway to Chemnitz (Pte. 90). This little town lies on the 1. bank of the Elbe. On quitting the station we traverse the Elbe on a bridge of 9 arches, and then follow the rt. bank of the river for a short distance, crossing the long- viaduct of Poderau, which rests on 64 piers. Here the Direct Berlin and Dresden Rly. (Pte. 65) falls in. Saxony. route 87 .— meissen. 467 [About 10 m. N.W. of Ricsa, on the Elbe, is Miihlberg , where the battle was fought, in 1547, when the Protestants under John Frederick, Elector of Sax¬ ony, were defeated by Charles V., and their leader made prisoner, and com¬ pelled to throw himself at his con¬ queror’s feet.] 2^ Pristewitz Stat. A tunnel, the only one on the line, about 500 yards long, is traversed at Oberau. Near this (rt.) a glimpse is obtained of the town of Meissen, on the opposite side of the Elbe, 4 m. off. A branch rly. runs thither from Niederau Junct. Stat. But Meissen is most pleasantly visited from Dresden by steamer, down the Elbe. ' [Meissen. (Inns: Hirsch ;—Sonne.) A town of 5000 Inhab., prettily situated on the S. bank of the Elbe, which is here crossed by a bridge. The old Castle on the precipitous rock above the town, entered by a bridge thrown across the road in a cleft below, was formerly the residence of the Saxon princes. The view from it on all sides is charming, and its Cfothic architecture presents much that is worthy of admiration, especially in the two elegant corkscrew staircases, the vaulting of the ceilings, the cross room, and a polygonal turret room; the windows are of a peculiar late Gothic, inclining in shape to those of Batalha and St. Mary’s Bedcliffe. Contiguous to the castle is the Worn, the finest Gothic Ch. in Saxony, begun in the 13th and continued to the 15th cent., with an exquisite spire of open work. From an ante-nave, the Fiirstengruft , b. 1423, with curious groined vaulting, you enter, by a door enriched with many figures and reliefs, into the nave, having graceful piers and aisles of equal height (14th cent.), late Dec. The choir is earlier, being of 13th cent. Gothic. The stone roodloft of 7 rich arches (1342-70) commands a good view of choir and nave. The recep¬ tacle for the sacrament near the altar is very elaborately carved in stone. The painted glass in its windows, the Descent from the Cross by L. Cranach , in which are introduced the portraits of Luther, his wife, and his friend the Elector, are worth notice. In the Prince’s vault (at the W. end) many princes of the Saxon house, of the Wettin line, are interred, including Ernest and Albert, founders of the Royal and Ducal lines of Saxony. Here are 10 or 12 fine brasses engraved with their effigies and arms, those of about 1500 are finer than any in England or Flanders. The best is that of Sidonia, daughter of George Podiebrad (d. 1510), a work not unworthy of the burin of Alb. Diirer. On a sarcophagus of bronze in the centre of the chapel is an effigy in bas- relief of its builder, Frederick the War¬ like (der Streitbar). Do not leave un¬ seen an early altarpiece with wings, of our Saviour between the Virgin and St, John, by L. Cranach. The Porcelain Manufactory , formerly in the castle, now occupies a handsome building expressly designed for it, nearly a mile from the town. China ware, or porcelain, was ori¬ ginally brought from the country after which it is named, and was first made in Europe at this place, in 1710, by one Bottichcr, an alchemist, who, after wasting a great deal of the gold of his patron (Augustus I., King of Poland and Elector of Saxony) in his search for the philosopher’s stone, stumbled, by accident, upon a more sure method of producing the precious metals by the discovery of an art which has served to enrich his countrymen. This manu¬ factory, so celebrated in the time of Augustus II., received its death-blow in the Seven Years’ War, being then plundered, and its workmen and models, along with the archives, carried away by Frederick the Great. It continued to enjoy royal patronage at a heavy expense to the private purse of the Saxon Sovereign, hut the King has lately ceded it to the Government. It is now carried on for profit, and cheap¬ ness being the object, it now makes a revenue, but the articles made are very inferior to those of former times. The managers of the establishment are very civil in showing it to strangers, who will find here a very large assortment of articles for sale or inspection. A Tunnel —24 m. long—has been in progress many years from the level of 468 ROUTE 87. —DRESDEN. COLLECTIONS. Sect. VII. the Elbe at Meissen to Freiberg, in order to drain the silver-mines around that town, which have been for ages choked with water.] Beyond Niederau as far as Dresden the railway runs at the foot of a range of hills, covered with vineyards, slop¬ ing down to the Elbe, producing, under skilful management, a tolerable wine, and dotted over with elegant villas and country-houses. The high road from Meissen to Dresden is crossed at Koswig. rt. On a height is seen the tower of the castle of Weistrupp, retreat of the Duke of Lucca, who abdicated in favour of his son 1849. 1. lies Lossnitz, where is a large manufactory of champagne ! 2 Dresden Terminus in the Neu- stadt, on the rt. hank of the Elbe, not far from the Japanese Palace, but 20 min. drive from the hotels in the Altstadt. Fiacres and droschkies are ready to convey passengers to all parts of the town, for 10 and 5 neu groschen. / . Dresden. — Inns? victoria, good ; an enormous building; makes up 200 beds;—*H. de Saxe, in the Neu Markt, very good;—II. de Bellevue, by the river ;—H. de Pologne, Schlossgasse ; table d’hote good ;—British Hotel;— H. de l’Europe;—H. de France, Wils- drutfer Gasse, good; table d’hote, 20 S. gr.;—Stadt Berlin, good. In the Neustadt, Stadt "Wien, over¬ looking the river, one of the best;— H. zum Kronprinz. At night, in the summer time, the inns overflow with travellers; and to secure beds it is best to order them by telegram (cost 8 N. gr. for 20 words.) Boarding-houses: Frau von Zschii- schens, Backnitzer St., and that of Madame Maltzahn, are recommended as comfortable. The Misses Lindner receive ladies and families only, 24, Liitticliau St., very comfortable and moderate. The house of Madame Dillon, widow of an English gentle¬ man, is admirably kept, and highly recommended, in the Burger Wiese. The capital of Saxony, residence of its sovereign of the Albertine line, and seat of the government ( Population 130,000—6000 Bom. Cath.), is situated on the Elbe, which divides the old town from the new. Dresden was named by Ilerder “the German Florence;” and in its pleasing situation, in the number and excellence of its collections, and more especially in its richly stored Pic¬ ture Gallery, it may deserve to be com¬ pared, at a respectful distance, with the Florence of Italy. Few European capi¬ tals contain a greater number of objects calculated to gratify the curiosity of an intelligent traveller. It is the residence of many men of learning and talent, who contribute much to render society agreeable. The opera is good, and music is much cultivated; the climate is generally mild and agreeable, food and lodgings are not dear. It has been much resorted to since 1830 by the English for education and economy. The town itself is more pleasing at a distance, than striking when examined in detail; it has neither fine streets nor imposing public buildings, but its situ¬ ation is pretty, and its environs are delightful. The most healthy localities are the Neustadt and the S. streets of the old town, Waiscnhaus Strasse, Halbe Gasse, sometimes called the English quarter. The Post and Diligence offices are included in one handsome building in the Wilsdruffer Platz. A letter to or from England reaches in 36 hrs. Fiacres , or 2-horse carriages, at 1 thaler the hour; and Cabs, called Droschken , at 4 gros the course, if not taken across the Elbe. Bridge toll not included. If bridge be crossed, 5 gros; 6 gros by the £ hom-, 12 by the hour. For longer drives make a bargain. They are stationed in the public places. An excellent job-carriage may be hired at 4 or 5 thalers for the day, and a trinkgeld to the driver. All the collections may be seen dur¬ ing the months, the days, or hours, when they are not open to the public , by paying a fee of 2 dollars for a ticket (Einlasskarte), which admits 6 persons, and also secures the attendance of the directors; but an appointment must be made with them beforehand. The directors of the collections are men of intelligence, possessing and willing to 469 Saxony. route 87 . —Dresden. impart every information respecting the objects of which they have charge. The services of a valet de place (who usually receives 1 dollar per diem) are particularly required at Dresden, to procure tickets for the open collections, and to make appointments during the close months, and for those collections which are shown only on payment of a fee. If a foreigner were to undertake this for himself, he would sustain a great loss of time. The tickets are usually all engaged along while before¬ hand, so that a stranger pressed for . time has little chance of obtaining them exactly at the moment when he wants them, except by the agency of a valet de place. By his aid, also, the solitary traveller is enabled to join parties about to visit the collections; and, instead of paying the entire fee, which is onerous for one or two persons, may contribute only his share, by which considerable expense is spared. Bays and hours of admission to the Collections in Dresden: Antiquities, Saxon, daily, fee- 5 N. gr. Antique Sculpture (Antiken) in Ja¬ panese Palace, from May 1st to Oct. 31st, Wednesday and Saturday, 10—2. At other times fee 5 N. gr. China and Pottery (Japanese Palace), on Wednesday from 2—6 from May 1st to Oct. 31st. At other times fee 2 dollars admits 6 persons. Green Vault (Griins Gewolbe), daily, fee 2 dollars 1 to 6 persons. Historical Museum (Armoury), daily any hour, fee 2 dollars admits 6 per¬ sons. Library in Japanese Palace, gratis daily, 9—1. Strangers are shown round by an attendant, fee 5 X. gr. Picture Gallery, open free on Sundays and holidays from 12—3, and Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday, 10—4 p.m. Fee on Monday and Wednesday (10—4), 5 N. gr.; on Saturday, fee 15 N. gr. Natural History Museum (Zwinger), free Tuesday and Friday, 8—10. On Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday, 9—12, fee 5 N. gr. Prints and Drawings, free Tuesday and Friday, 10—2. COLLECTIONS. RRIDGES. Monday , Plaster Casts, 10—1. Tuesday. —Picture Gallery, 10—4, gratis. Collection of Engravings and Drawings, 8—12. Gems, 8—12. Ca¬ binet of Minerals, 10—12; of Zoolo^v 8 — 10 . Wednesday. —Antique Sculpture, 9—1 (tickets). Collection of Porcelain, 2—6. Thursday. —Picture Gallery, 10—4, gratis. Historical Museum, 8—12 and 2—6 (tickets). Meng’s Plaster Casts, 8—12. Friday. —Picture Gallery; Cabinet of Minerals, 10—12. Cabinet of Zoo¬ logy, 8—10. Saturday. —Antique Sculpture, 9—1. Cabinet of Minerals, Cabinet of Zoo¬ logy, 9—12, fee 5 N.gr. Tickets of Admission to the Green Vaults, Armoury, Engravings, and Col¬ lection of China, cost 2 thalers, and admit 6 persons. N.B. The ‘ Dresdener Anzeiger’ newspaper gives a ‘ Tagebuch,’ or list of the sights open every day, with the modes of obtaining admission. The Old Bridge over the Elbe, entirely of stone, commands an excellent view of the town and valley of the Elbe. It was originally built with money raised by the sale of dispensations from the pope for eating butter and eggs during Lent. It is of a very solid construction, in order that it may resist the force of the stream (which often rises 16 ft. in 24 h., when the snow begins to melt), and the shocks of floating masses of ice in the spring, during the months of January and February the river is usually frozen over. The fourth pier from the side of the Altstadt was blown up by the French general Davoust, in 1813, to facilitate his retreat to Leipzig, and the two adjoining arches fell. N.B. Foot passengers in crossing the bridge always take the path on the right hand, “a rule of the road,” which is enforced by the police, and prevents collision and confusion. The Marien Brucke , a still finer Bridge , 5 mile W., lower down the river, carries over the railway which connects the Leipzig with the Prague line. This bridge has also a carriage and foot way. The cost was 150,000L Its 12 large arches arc of 100 ft. span; 470 R. 87. —DRESDEN - . CHURCHES. GREEN VAULT. Sect, VII. the 2 smaller of 50 ft. It is 1420 ft. long, 54 ft. wide, and 40 ft. above the river. The Frauenkirche (Ch. of our Lady) is a very handsome Italian edifice, entirely of stone, even to the dome, which is of such solid construction that the shells and halls directed against it by Fre¬ derick the Great (in 1760) i-ebounded from its surface, without doing it any injury. The inside is fitted up just like a theatre, with boxes, pit, &c. A good view may be had from the out¬ side of the cupola, and an easy staircase leads up to it. The Catholic or Court Church between the bridge and the palace is a profusely decorated but tasteless building, in the Italian style. It is connected with the palace by a bridge thrown over the street, and is attended by the royal family. They profess the R, Catholic faith, though their subjects are Lu¬ therans, since the time of Augustus II. (1697), who, as the price of obtain¬ ing the crown of Poland, adjured the religion of which his ancestors had been the earliest and most faithful sup¬ porters. The music in this church is celebrated. It is under the superin¬ tendence of the director of the opera, who merely transfers his band from the orchestra of the theatre to the organ loft. High mass is performed on Sun¬ days and festivals, from 11 to 12, and no stranger should miss hearing it. The evening service at 4; likewise fine music. During service, the male and female parts of the congregation are arranged on opposite sides of the church. The organ, made by Silbermann, is con¬ sidered very good. The altar-piece is by Raphael Mengs, a native artist. The Terrace of Briihl , approached by a grand flight of broad steps from the foot of the bridge, runs along the 1. bank of the Elbe, and commands a de¬ lightful view. It is a deservedly fa¬ vourite promenade and lounge of the inhabitants, who resort much to the places of entertainment situated on it, that is, to the Cafe Reale for ices in the afternoon, and to the Belvidcre Cafe and Restauration in the evening for supper, tea, beer, and music. The Palace of Briihl, contiguous to the terrace, was the residence of the profli¬ gate minister of Augustus II. Near it is the Academy of Fine Arts. Here are the Studios of Bendemann and Hiibner. The Queen Dowager occupies part of this palace. The Royal Palace ( Schloss ), opposite the bridge, is an ancient building, of very ungainly architecture and great extent. Within, it possesses a great attraction for the lovers of modem art in the frescoes, by Bendemann , in the Thron Saal. A scries of scenes painted on gold grounds, representing the various conditions of life, its occupa¬ tions and labours from the cradle to the ' grave, form a frieze round the room. At the lower end are figures of law¬ givers, from Moses downwards, heroes and great men; at the upper, four largo compositions from the history of the Emperor Henry the Fowler, bearing upon the 4 estates of the realm, Peasants, Citizens, Nobles (defeat of the Hun¬ garians at Merseburg), Clergy. These paintings are superior to most of the modern German frescoes. The Ball¬ room is painted with subjects from the mythology and private life of the an¬ cient Greeks. The state rooms are shown, when the court is absent, by an officer called Bettmcister. / T\xq** Green Vault (dasgnine Geirolhe), a range of vaulted apartments, on the ground floor of the Palace, arc so called, probably, from the colour of the hang¬ ings with which the chambers were originally decorated. They form a separate and curious exhibition, and are shown on week-days from 8 to 12, and from 2 to 6. An -appointment must bo made previously with the in¬ spector, who conducts parties not ex¬ ceeding 6 in number, and explains every thing to them. He receives a fee of 2 dollars. The Saxon princes, besides being far more powerful and important in former times than at present, were also among the richest sovereigns of Europe; the Freiberg silver-mines alone were an immense source of wealth, previous to the discovery of America. The nu¬ merous and valuable collections of various kinds, still existing in the capital, are proofs both of their riches and their taste. One mode by which Saxony. they showed their magnificence, and expended their money, was in the accu¬ mulation of all kinds of rare objects, such as jewels and exquisite carvings, in the precious metals, and in other costly materials, which were deposited in a secret strong room under their palace, where it is believed that vast treasures of money were also accumu¬ lated. This is the origin of the cele¬ brated collection now known as the Green Vault, the costliest objects dating from the time of Augustus the Strong, 1724. It is probably the richest which any European monarch at this time pos¬ sesses; indeed, the treasures remind one rather of the gorgeous, dazzling mag¬ nificence of oriental despots, or the magic productions of Aladdin’s lamp in the eastern tale. The value of the whole must amount to several millions. A large portion of the objects are in the highest degree worthy of atten¬ tion as works of art,* while others are at least wonderful as the elaborate pro¬ ductions of patient toil and skill, and of arts which in the present day" may be said to be almost extinct, or at least to have degenerated. The treasures are contained in 8 apartments, each exceed¬ ing the previous one in the splendour and richness of its contents; the whole has been re-arranged within a few years. The objects are so numerous, that it is quite impossible to allude to more than a few of the most striking in each chamber. 1 st room contains objects in bronze, as, a Crucifix, by John of Bologna, , a masterpiece — a little dog scratching itself, by Peter Vischer —a copy of the Farnese bull—the Rape of Proserpine. A statue of Charles II. of England on horseback, in the character of St. George, cut out of a piece of solid cast iron. 2 nd, or Ivory Cabinet; a Crucifix attributed to Michael Angelo , and not unworthy of him—a battle-piece by Albert Biirer (?)—a number of beau¬ tiful vases, some of large size, cut out of a single piece of ivory—a cup, on which is carved the story of the Foolish Virgins—the Fall of Lucifer and the Wicked Angels, a most wonderful group * See Lewis Gruner's ‘Illustrations of the Green Vaults, a beautiful work. 471 of 142 figures, carved in one piece of ivory, 16 inches high—2 horses’ heads in relief, by Michael Angelo. There is an interesting work of the present day, a goblet of ivory and stag’s horn, cut in the manner of a cameo with figures representing a hunt, by Schulz , an artist of Meiningen. 3rd contains Florentine mosaics ; en¬ graved shells; ostrich eggs, carved and ornamented: No. 41 is an egg said to have been laid by an ostrich kept in the menagerie of Moritzburg; objects in amber, particularly a cabinet, entirely of this precious material—a chimney- piece of Dresden china (1788), orna¬ mented with precious stones, all of them the produce of Saxony; paintings in Enamel , especially a Madonna and Ecce Homo, by Raphael Mengs when young—portraits of Peter the Great and Augustus the Strong, by Pinglinger —a fruit dish, with a battle-piece, by Noel Landin of Limoges. 4th is filled with gold and silver plate which adorned the banquets of the Saxon palace. A part of this collec¬ tion was carried to Frankfurt at the coronation of the Emperors by the Electors of Saxony, who held the hereditary office of Arch-Marshal of the empire. A baptismal dish, made at Nuremberg 1620, has served at all the roy r al christenings. 5th. Vessels formed of half-precious stones, such as agates, chalcedony, rock crystal, lapis lazuli, &c.;—2 gob¬ lets composed entirely of cut gems (some of them antiques), arc valued at 6000 dollars each. An antique onyx cameo, bearing the portrait of Augustus. The cups of Moss agate are particu¬ larly" beautiful. Here may be seen the largest enamel knoAvn, a Magdalen, by — Pinglinger. A set of vessels cut out of solid rock crystal are valuable for their size and brightness ; the modern manufacture of crystal glass, however, has attained such excellence, as nearly to equal them in appearance. 6 tli room contains a large assem¬ blage of cleverly cut figures in ivory and wood, also numerous caricature figures of men and animals formed of single pearls, of odd shapes and un- ROUTE 87. —DRESDEN. GREEN VAULT. 472 ROUTE 87. —DRESDEN. GREEN VAULT. Sect. VII. usual size, chiefly found in the Elster, a Saxon river. For instance, the body of a court dwarf of the King of Spain is represented by a pearl as large as a hen’s egg. Besides these, there arc a num¬ ber of other most costly jewels and trinkets, on which a vast deal of inge¬ nuity and wealth must have been ex¬ pended. Two old watches, called Nu¬ remberg eggs (there is a finer one in the Bustkammer) from their shape and the name of the place where they were first made, in 1500. Among the carvings in wood are two combats of knights, by that emi¬ nent sculptor, Colin of Mechlin , who executed the reliefs on Maximilian’s tomb at Innsbruck; others are attri¬ buted to A. Diirer. The 7th room. The regalia used at the coronation of Augustus II. as King of Poland. The 8th and last apartment sur¬ passes all the others tenfold in the va¬ lue and splendour of its contents. Among the wonders of this cabinet are the works of Dinglinger , an artist who may be fairly termed the Saxon Benvenuto Cellini. He and two re¬ latives of inferior skill were almost entirely employed by the Electors of Saxony; and a close examination of the workmanship displayed in his per¬ formances will show that they are the productions of no mean artist. One of these pieces is called the Court of the Great Mogul, and represents the Emperor Aurengzebe upon his throne, surrounded by his guards and courtiers, in the most appropriate costumes ac¬ cording to the description of Taver¬ nier, to the number of 132 figures, all of pure gold enamelled. The variety of character, and the true expression of each of the figures, deserve the mi¬ nutest inspection. This elaborate trin¬ ket, begun in 1701, employed Dinglin¬ ger 8 years, and cost 58,400 dollars. Another piece, by the same artist, portrays artizans of different trades, all remarkable for the delicacy and per¬ fection with which they are executed. There are many other specimens of Dinglinger’s skill; he flourished be¬ tween 1702 and 1720, and was court jeweller at Dresden. Other things to be noticed in this room are — an immense specimen of uncut Peruvian emeralds, given by Kudolph II. to the Elector of Saxony; a portion of a mass of solid native sil¬ ver from the Himmelsfurst mine at Freiberg. It is recorded, that no less than 2176 cwt. of silver were ob¬ tained in the course of 50 years from that mine alone. The Saxon Regalia include—the Electoral sword borne by the Saxon princes at the Imperial Coronations; the decorations belong¬ ing to a miner’s uniform, made for the Elector John George, 1676; a large collection of chains, collars, and orders; among which are the Garter, Golden Fleece, Polish Eagle, &c., worn by Saxon princes. The largest sardonyx known, 6J inches long, and 4 \ broad; it is oval, and beautifully regular. Last of all comes a glass case filled with most precious suits of the most costly jewels;—the 1st division con¬ tains Sapphires; the largest of them, an uncut specimen, was a gift of Peter the Great;—the 2nd, Emeralds ;— 3rd, Rubies; the two largest spinels weigh 48 and 59 carats;—4th, Pearls; one set of native Saxon pearls, from the Elster in Voigtland, are of course inferior to the oriental. Among 63 rings there are two which belonged to Martin Luther; one a cornelian bearing a rose, and in its centre a cross; the other his enamelled seal ring, bearing a death’s head, and the motto, “ Mori sa?pe cogita.” The 5th division is devoted to Dia¬ monds. The diamond decorations of the gala dress of the Elector consist of buttons, collar, sword hilt and scab¬ bard, all of diamonds; the 3 brilliants in the epaulette weigh nearly 50 carats each. But the most remarkable stone of all, which is considered unique, is a green brilliant, weighing 160 grains = 40 carats. 6th division, also fitted with diamonds, includes the Saxon order of the Rue Garland, and 7 orders of the Golden Fleece, &c., &c., &c. Nearly opposite the Schloss stands the handsome Theatre (built by Semper, 1841), and between it and the gardens is a statue of Carl von Weber, by Biet- schel. 473 Saxony. route 87. —Dresden. ^X **The Picture Gallery,* the finest collection of paintings in Germany, is open to the public every day from 10 to 4, but on Sundays 12 to 3. On Sunday, Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday gratis: on other days on paying a fee of 5 to 10 N. gros. A German f catalogue costs 25 N. gr., a French one 1 thaler. It is well warmed and furnished with seats. The New Gallery, occupying the 4th side of the Zwinger (see below), was begun 1846 and opened 1855. It is a handsome edifice of red sandstone with Corinthian columns in front, and sculp¬ tured decorations by Rietschel and Hanoi of Dresden. The architect was Semper. On entering the central arch¬ way from the side of the river, the door on the 1. leads into the Gallery of Casts. Passing into the Grand Hall, through the doorway on the rt., the entrance to the Print Boom is facing you. The rudiments of a collection of paint¬ ings were made in the reign of Duke George, the friend of Lucas Cranach; but Augustus II. may be regarded as the founder of the Gallery. It was greatly increased, and received some of its brightest ornaments, in the reign of Augustus III., who purchased the col¬ lection of the Duke of Modena, and the famous Madonna di San Sisto of Raphael. “ While lingering among the great productions of a captivating art, it is a pleasant feeling that they have had the rare fortune to be treated with reverence by every hostile hand. Frederick the Great bombarded Dresden, battered down its churches, laid its streets in ruins, but ordered his cannon and mortars to keep clear of the Picture Gallery. He entered as a conqueror, levied the taxes, administered the go¬ vernment, and, with an affectation of humility, asked permission of the cap¬ tive electress to visit the Gallery as a stranger. Napoleon’s policy, too, led him to treat Saxony with much con¬ sideration, and was the guardian angel * Sec Kugler's Handbook of Painting, Part I., Italian School, edited by Eastlake: Parts II. and III Germany and Netherlands, edited by Dr. Waagen: Part IV., France and Spain, by Sir Edmund Head, Bart. f Director Hiibner’s Catalogue is useful and jnstructiye. PICTURE GALLERY. of her pictures. Not one of them made the journey to Paris.”— Russell's Germany. It is much to be regretted that many of the pictures of this gallery, includ¬ ing the Raphael and the Correggios, have suffered greatly, first from neg¬ lect, and afterwards from injudicious cleaning. There is room in the New Gallery only for a portion of the large collec¬ tion of the Saxon sovereign. All the finest works of the old mas¬ ters are arranged in the 2 upper stories of the building. In the centre, under the dome, are hung 5 tapestries after Raphael’s Cartoons. A feAV of the choicest works are here set down, with the view of guiding the eye of the spectator, and saving him from the mortification of having passed over any of acknowledged merit. Italian Schools. No collection out of Italy contains a finer Raphael, or can compete with this in the works of the Venetian masters and Correggio. One room (A) is set apart for Raphael’s masterpiece, the Madonna di San Sisto, and another at the further extremity (N) for Holbein’s Madonna. Raphael’s Madonna di San Sisto, 1020 , is the gem of the Dresden Gallery; a capital painting scarcely surpassed by any work of Raphael’s existing in Italy, and equalled by none out of it. It is thought to be almost en¬ tirely by his own hand, and is in his latest and best manner, and was exe¬ cuted only a few years before his death. The sainted Pope Sixtus, from whom the picture is named, is represented on the one side gazing with pious and trembling awe upon the figure of the Virgin, who is soaring up to heaven in all the majesty with which the Roman Catholic religion has surrounded her, bearing in her arms the divine child. “ The head of the Virgin is perhaps nearer the perfection of female beauty and elegance than anything in paint¬ ing ; it is truly impressive and beau¬ tiful.”— Wilkie. Opposite to the Pope kneels St. Barbara; her youthful beauty and fervour contrast admirably with his aged form. Below this group are two angelic children, their coun- ZWINGER. 474 ROUTE 87. —DRESDEN. PICTURE GALLERY. Sect. VII. S-H o o r H Pm fl 0 ) '■d m o Sh « . £-3 J- d *—< ^ c3 u O £ Q5 C3 S-, C£ d ^ t3H s 0 ) £ o o c3 5 tenances beaming with innocence and intelligence, their eyes up-turned to¬ wards the central figures of the pic¬ ture ; they are among the happiest efforts of art. This picture was pur¬ chased from a convent at Piacenza for 17,000 ducats (about 800CB.). Albctno —A Dance of Cupids. Baroccio —Hagar in the Desert. Giovanni Bellini —Christ : a whole- length figure, of great majesty. Por¬ trait of the Doge Loredano. Caravaggio —The Card-players : full of truth and nature. Annibal Caracci —Fame soaring up¬ wards : very spirited. — St. Matthew writing his Gospel under the superin¬ tendence of the Virgin, with St. John and St. Francis. Carlo Cignani— Joseph and Potiphar’s Wife : a masterpiece. Carlo Dolce —St. Cecilia ; one of the best pictures of the painter. — Our Saviour blessing the bread, the same as the picture of Burleigh. Correggio. —Excepting at Parma, so many and such excellent works of this artist are to be met with nowhere in Europe. The following 6 paintings are arranged here according to the periods of the artist’s life at which they were executed, as it is peculiarly interesting to watch the change in style and the progress to perfection made by so great a master in his art :—■ The Virgin and Child with St. Francis , painted, it is said, at the age of 18. —Portrait of a Man, supposed to be the physician of the artist. — The far-famed picture of the Virgin and infant Jesus in the Manger, known by the name of “ La Notte,” the Night. u Correggio has here converted the literal representation of a circumstance of sacred history into a divine piece of poetry, when he gave us that emanation of supernatural light streaming from the form of the celestial child, and illuminating the ecstatic face of the Virgin mother, who bends over her infant undazzled ; while another female draws back, veiling her eyes with her hand, as if unable to endure the ra¬ diance. Far off through the gloom of night we see the morning just breaking along the eastern horizon—emblem of Saxony. the ‘ day-spring from on high.’ ” Mrs. Jamieson. —“The Notte of Correggio is what I expected the most from, and the condition of which has given me the greatest disappointment. Yet, how beautiful the arrangement! All the powers of the art are here united to make a perfect work. Here the sim¬ plicity of the drawing of the Virgin and Child is shown in contrast with the foreshortening of the group of Angels; the strongest unity of effect with the most perfect system of in¬ tricacy. The emitting the light from the child, though a supernatural illu¬ sion, is eminently successful; it looks neither forced nor improbable. What¬ ever the Notte may have been, the hand of the picture-cleaner is here manifest; and those who like bright day-light effect will have it here to their heart’s content. Correggio did not, like Rem¬ brandt, in these effects attempt to give the colour of lamplight; the phospho¬ rescent quality of light was more his aim, as in his ‘ Christ in the Carden.’ But here the light on the Virgin and Child is white, chalky, and thin; and the rest of the picture has somewhat the poverty of a copy. The group of shepherds indeed appear, in character and in the beauty of painting, infe¬ rior to the general run of Correggio’s figures; the man at the side is even coarse. Still, however, the matchless beauty of the Virgin and Child, the group of Angels over head, the day¬ break in the sky, and the whole ar¬ rangement of light and shadow, give it the right to be considered, in con¬ ception at least, the greatest of his works. * * For the conception, pur¬ pose, and originality,—as an arrange¬ ment of colour, effect, and of sentiment, -—I consider it one of the first works the art of painting has to boast of; and, in the adaptation of light and. shadow to the illusion of the subject, one of the triumphs of modern art.” Wilkie .— This picture was begun about the year 1522, and is one of the most admirable specimens of that masterly manage¬ ment of light and shade in which Cor¬ reggio is unrivalled.—Virgin and Child, with St. George. The figures of the children and woman are particularly 475 admired for their grace and sweet¬ ness of expression. — The recumbent Magdalen , one of the sweetest and most pleasing, as well as the most faultless pictures ever painted. It is distin¬ guished for its peculiar softness of out¬ line, and is executed in the artist’s best manner. “It is in its pristine con¬ dition ; almost as left by the master, without even varnish. The head, neck, and arms are beautiful; the face and right arm one of the finest pieces of painting I have witnessed. The sha¬ dows are extremely loaded ; the lights, though painted flat and floating, are, compared with them, thin and smooth. The background and darks of the pic¬ ture, even the blue drapery, want rich¬ ness and transparency.” Wilkie. — The Virgin and Child with St. Sebastian, painted about 1528, is one of the most striking examples of the master’s magic chiaro-scuro, remarkable, to use the words of an eminent artist, for the “ exquisite truth of tint in the passage from light to dark; so that in this pic¬ ture, as in nature, the spectator is soon unconscious of the presence of shade.” Dosso Dossi — The Fathers of the Church, SS. Gregory, Augustine, and Jerome, meditating on the immaculate Conception of the Virgin; a grand work. Francia —Adoration of Shepherds.— The Baptism in Jordan. Garofalo ( Benvenuto ) — The Virgin kneeling before the infant Saviour, an Angel standing opposite. Gimignano ( Viccnzio di San )—A Vir¬ gin and Child; an exquisite little picture, Giorgione — Meeting of Jacob and Rachel (The Embrace). Guido —Bacchus as a Child.—Venus. Palma Vecchio —The Virgin and in¬ fant Saviour with St. John: a work of fascinating beauty. — Palma’s 3 Daughters. — Two Holy Families with St. Catherine. Parmigiano — Virgin and Child, known as the Madonna della Rosa. Giulio Romano —Virgin and Child, with a basin. A good copy of the Madonna della Seggiola, by Raphael. ROUTE 87. —DRESDEN. PICTURE GALLERY. 476 ROUTE 87.— DRESDEN. And. del Sarto —Sacrifice of Isaac. Titian —The Tribute Money, known as “ II Christo della Monetaremark¬ able for the richness of colour, fine ex¬ pression, and high finish. —• The Virgin and Child, the Baptist, St. Jerome, and St. Paul. Some of the colour is very beautiful. — Portrait of Pietro Aretino. — A reclining Venus, like that in the Fitz william Museum. It has suffered dreadfully from cleaning. — Portrait of a young woman dressed in white, with a fan, called Titian’s Mistress. Paul Veronese —The Finding of Mo¬ ses. — The Adoration of the Wise Men : a glorious combination of colour. — Christ with his Disciples at Em¬ in aus. — The Virgin and Child en¬ throned between St. John the Baptist and St. Jerome. Three female figures, representing Faith, Love, and Hope, are presenting to the Virgin a Mem¬ ber of the Venetian family of Concina, who had been reconciled to the Church after having listened to the doctrines of the Reformation. The other members of the family accompany him: a mas¬ terpiece of the artist. — The Marriage in Cana. German , Flemish , Dutch, French, and Spanish Schools. The works of the early German and Flemish masters here, are far inferior to those at Munich, Berlin, and Vi¬ enna ; hut in the productions of the later period of these schools the Dres¬ den Gallery is very rich indeed. One room at the extremity of the gallery is set apart to contain the mas¬ terpiece of German art by Holbein , the younger—**Jacob Meyer, burgomaster of Basle, with his Family, kneeling before the Virgin, and praying for the recovery of his sick child. The Ma¬ donna has laid down the infant Saviour, and has taken in her arms the sickly infant. This is, without doubt, Hol¬ bein’s chef-d’oeuvre. Berghem — Landscapes — Cattle re¬ turning from the Mountains, crossing a swollen brook — A rocky Scene, mountains in the distance. PICTURE GALLERY. Sect. VII. Backhuysen —Sea-fight between the English and Dutch Fleets. Ferdinand Bol — Joseph presenting his Father Jacob to Pharaoh: worthy of Rembrandt. —» The Repose in Egypt. Both —Landscape: in the foreground, two men on horseback. Ilans Burghmayer —St. Ursula and the 10,000 Virgins, a curious work by a rare master. Claude —The Flight into Egypt.— Acis and Galatea. L. Cranach —Christ on the Mount of Olives.—Portrait of a Saxon prince. Denner Balthazei -Head of an old Woman, with white drapery around it. Gerard Dow —A Dentist drawing a Boy’s Tooth. — Portrait of G. Dow painting. — A Hermit in a Cave at prayer. — The Artist, as a young man, playing on the Violin.—Here are 16 pictures of this rare master ; all capital pieces. A. Dure- -Drawing of a Rabbit, in water-colours—Portrait of a Man in black; probably of Lucas van Leyden. Karl Dujardin —Cattle-pieces. John van Eyck —The Virgin. Holbein — Besides the Virgin and Family of Meyer, described above, por¬ traits of Morett, an English goldsmith, formerly attributed to L. da Vinci, and of a Citizen’s Wife. Memling- —Portrait of Antony of Bur¬ gundy, natural son of Philip the Good, a fine head, attributed to the master. Metzu —The Poultry-woman. F. Mieris —A Soldier smoking.—An old Man mending a Pen.—A travelling Tinker scrutinising a worn-out Kettle : one of the artist’s finest works.—The Artist in his Studio. Netscher —The Artist’s own Portrait. — A Lady playing, while a Man by her side is singing. — Portraits of Ma¬ dame de Montespan: in the latter is her son, the Duke of Maine. Ad. v. Ostade —The Tap-room.—The Painter in his Studio, Saxony. route 87.— Dresden Paul Potter and A. Van de Velde — j Cattle in a wooded landscape. Nic. Poussin —A Sleeping Bacchante. Rembrandt —Portrait of his Mother; she is weighing gold.—The Entomb¬ ment of Christ.—Landscape.—His own Portrait, with his Wife sitting on his knee, and a glass of wine in his hand. —His daughter, holding a carnation : a charming picture. Rubens —A Picture known by the name of the Garden of Love, or Love punished.—The Judgment of Paris, a small, highly finished study, or nearly a repetition of the picture in our Na¬ tional Gallery.—The Boar Hunt: a very animated sketch. — Neptune stilling the tempest (called the “Quosego”), upon the passage of the Cardinal Fer¬ dinand of Austria from Spain to Italy. —A Sketch for the large picture of the Last Judgment, at Munich.—Portrait of a young woman in black, with flowers in her left hand: a charming picture, lights well arranged, flesh color exquisite.—The Vintage.—Charles V. crowned by France. Ruisdael —The Hunt: a wooded scene, with a piece of water in the foreground. The figures are by Van de Velde. One of the finest pictures Ruisdael ever painted.—The Chateau of Bentheim. —Landscape, known as “ the Jews’ Burial-ground. ’ ’ Schalken —A Girl examining an Egg at a Candle. Slingelandt —A Poultry-man, deal¬ ing with a young Woman. Teniers —Two Village Fetes.'—Temp¬ tation of St. Anthony ; in which, as in the same subject at Berlin, the painter’s wife and mother-in-law appear.—The Alchemist’s Laboratory. — A Guard Room. A hoy and armour in the fore¬ ground ; soldiers playing at cards. One of the most perfect of his pictures : clear, delicate, and free in execution.— Boors smoking, drinking, and gambling. —Peter brought out of Prison by the Angel: oddly treated. Terburg —A Soldier writing a letter, for which a trumpeter is waiting.— A young Lady in white, before a table. . PICTURE GALLERY. 4^7 Van der Werff —Judgment of Paris. — Abraham and Hagar.—The Artist and his Family. Van Dgck —Charles the First.—His Queen, Henrietta Maria.—Their Chil¬ dren, Charles II., James II., Mary, afterwards Princess of Orange.—Por¬ trait of Old Parr, at the age of 151. — Portrait of the painter David Rykaerts, in a fur pelisse, sitting in an arm-chair: a fine portrait; low and brown in tone, but broad and powerful. Wouvennanns — There are no less than 55 pictures by him, among which are many of his best works, as The Horse Market.—The Camp.—Horsemen at an Inn.—A Fair.—The Halt.—The Mill. —Skirmish of Cavalry, and several battle-pieces. On the ground floor of the Picture Gallery, are a series of 50 landscapes by Bernardo Canaletto, many of them Views of Dresden and its vicinity; the greater part possess no high merit. Also a large series of drawings in crayon (pastel). The best are the following, by Raphael Mengs : — Cupid sharpening his Arrows, is ex¬ cellent ; — and His own Portrait. —La Belle Chocolatiere, a waitress at a coffee-house in Vienna, and a celebrated beauty of the last century, who married into a high Austrian family (the Dietrichsteins), by Liotard , in crayons. The remainder are, for the most part, by Rosalba Carriera , a female artist of Venice, and of inferior merit. Below the Picture Gallery also is a Collection of Plaster Casts of the most famous antique statues. They are called the Mengsischen Abgiisse , having been made by and under the superintendence of the artist Raphael Mengs. Amongst other interesting objects is a group representing Menelaus carrying away the body of Patroclus, put to¬ gether and restored from antique frag¬ ments in the Pitti Palace at Florence. The exertion and muscular display of the one figure, contrasted with the im¬ potent lifeless limbs of the other, are not to be surpassed. The Boy on the Dolphin, by Raphael (?) : the original is preserved in Ireland; cast of Venus, 478 ROUTE 87*— DRESDEN and colossal bust of Juno (Ludovisi), also deserve attention. Print-Room.—Cabinet of Engravings (Kupferstich-Sannulling), also in a range of vaulted apartments, on the ground-floor, is shown to the public on Tuesday and Friday, 10 to 2, gratis; on Thursday to artists. A series of 1000 choice engravings and drawings, framed and glazed, are displayed on the walls, chronologically arranged. The rest of the collection, amounting to 250,000 engravings, is stowed away in portfolios. Mr. Lewis Gruner, so well known in England as an accom¬ plished artist, engraver, and author, is the director. He has prepared a com¬ plete and instructive catalogue of the whole. That amiable and erudite gen¬ tleman will give every information respecting it. This is “ one of the most complete collections of copper-plates in Europe, containing everything that is interest¬ ing in the history of the art, or valuable from practical excellence, and forms a supplement to the Picture Gallery. The oldest is of the date 1466, and is said to be the earliest yet known. Whoever wishes to study the history of this beau¬ tiful art, and to be initiated in the mys¬ teries of connoisseur ship , can find no better school than the cabinet of Dres¬ den. It overflows with materials, and is under the direction of a gentleman who not only seems to be thoroughly master of his occupation, but has the much rarer merit of being in the highest degree particularly attentive and com¬ municative.”— Russell. The collection is rich in the early German masters, Mechenen, Schoen- gauer, Albert Diircr, Wohlgemuth, &u., and has some valuable Marc Antonios. The 90 portfolios of Bravcings bg the old masters , especially of the early Ger¬ man, Flemish, and Dutch schools, form a very interesting and prominent por¬ tion of this cabinet. Besides 300 choice examples of chefs-d’oeuvres of all schools exhibited under glass, there is a valuable series of 450 portraits, unique probably of its kind, of all the most distinguished characters of the 19 th GALLERY. ZWltfGEfl. Sect. VII. cent, in Europe—sovereigns and royal families, statesmen and generals, artists and men of eminence in science and literature—taken from the life, chiefly by Prof. Vogel , and drawn with a mas¬ terly pencil. The Zioinger. —This building, erected in 1711, was intended merely as the fore-court and entrance-yard to a new and magnificent palace, designed by Augustus II., but never carried fur¬ ther. It is an enclosure consisting of an arcade, which, with the portal in front, are original and picturesque, but surmounted by heavy and inelegant pavilions at the sides. The whole is an extravaganza. In the centre stands a bronze statue of Frederick Augustus, d. 1827, by Rietschel. During the street revolt of May, 1849, the S.E. angle of the Zwinger was burned down, but has been rebuilt, 1855, in the same style, and covered with a copper roof, and with the Museum forming its 4th side composes a handsome quadrangle. The body of the building is now occupied by the following collections : — 1. The Historical Museum. 2. Museum of Natural History. 1. The * Historical Museum ( Rust - hammer or Armoury ) is well arranged in the W. and S. wing of the Zwinger. It is opened to the public only on Thursday, from 8 to 12, and 2 to 6, by tickets. On other days the way to see it is to pay the fee of 2 dols., which admits 6 persons, and make an appointment with the inspector for a private view. This is undoubtedly one of the finest collections of the kind in Europe. Though less interesting, as an histo¬ rical collection, it surpasses the Am- bras collection at Vienna in armour of rich and studied workmanship, and leaves the Armoury in the Tower of London very far behind. It contains all the weapons, offensive and defensive, of chivalrous warfare ; all the trappings and accoutrements of the tournament and other wild sports of feudal ages. Wealth and skill appear to have been exhausted in the materials and deco¬ ration of the armour. The elaborate workmanship in gold, silyer, and ivory 479 ROUTE 87.— DRESDEN. ARMOURY* Saxony. expended on the smaller arms, as the hilts of swords, stocks of guns, hits and stirrups, the rich damasking of the plate armour and gun-barrels, and the carving and inlaid work so profusely bestowed, are sufficient to excite wonder and admiration. There are no suits in it older than the time of our Henry VIII.; but several of Queen Elizabeth’s period, for man and horse, are covered with reliefs executed in the richest style. The 1st room contains specimens of painted glass of the 16th and 17th centuries; portraits of the Saxon princes of the Ernestine and Albertine dynas¬ ties. Those of Albert and his wife are by L. Cranach: the rest are for the most part copies. Around the room are arranged many articles of old furniture, cabinets, &c., almost all of which are ascertained to have belonged to the worthies whose effigies now decorate the walls. The work-table of the Electress Anne (1585) may interest the ladies. A cabinet given to Martin Luther by his friend the Elector John Frederick, containing relics of the great reformer ; together with a small sacramental cup, of silver gilt and ebony, which was presented to him by the Elector; his sword which he wore when shut up in the "Wartburg. A great number of ancient drinking vessels, horns, goblets, cups, for all varieties of potations :— the reader of Walter Scott will be pleased to discover among them the type of the blessed bear of Bradwardine. The 2nd room is filled with imple¬ ments of sports, pastimes, the chase, gardening, turning, &c. ; spears, knives, bows, hunting-horns, and game-bags. A carved hunting-horn of ivory (12th cent. ?) ; the hunting-knife and horn of Henri IY. of France; the cross¬ bow of the Elector Maurice (d. 3 653) ; of John Frederick, 1554, ornamented j with a representation of Orpheus on one j side, and a chase on the other. Game- bags embroidered by princesses ; a col¬ lection of dogs’ collars, arranged in chro¬ nological order from the time of Henry the Pious, 1541, to John George I., 1656. < 3rd. Gallery of Tournament , occu¬ pied almost entirely with parade arms and armour, employed in the tilts and tournaments of the times of chivalry. Of a collection of swords here shown, the oldest is a French blade, bearing the date 1293. The labour and skill bestowed on the ornaments of some of the sword-hilts should not be over¬ looked. In this gallery of iron statues , horse and foot, the most remarkable suits are—one, probably of the 16th cent., a present to the Elector from Philip Emanuel, Duke of Savoy. Near it is a black suit worn at the burial of the Elector, Augustus I. A knight, in black armour, on horseback, usually formed part of the funeral procession of the Saxon princes; several black suits in the collection have been made or used for this purpose. In the same way, on gala-days and at great festi¬ vities, such as the accession, marriage, or the like event in the life of a Saxon prince, a knight in a suit of gold and silver armour, as gaily and as splendidly decorated as possible, made part of the show. On these joyous occasions, the horse was called Gala Horse (Freude Pferd), and on the more mournful, Mourning Horse (Trauer Pferd). A suit of armour (No. 316) for man and horse, manufactured in Italy, is hardly to be surpassed in the elabo¬ rate workmanship with which it is decorated. Its surface is covered with reliefs, representing the Labours of Hercules, the Golden Fleece, Theseus and Aa’iadnc, and similar mythological subjects, all evincing the hand of a masterly artist. Another suit, of iron and copper gilt, was made, 1599, by Column, an armourer at Augsburg, for Christian II. Several shields and helmets of iron, beautifully chased and ornamented with reliefs, such as are usually employed only in decorating plate or other ar¬ ticles formed of the precious metals. It is well known that the invention and taste in design of the most talented artists was called in to aid the skill of the armourers of those days. Near the end of the room are several tilting suits. Two of these in par- 480 ROUTE 87. —DRESDEN. ARMOURY. Sect. VII. ticular deserve notice. They are the complete equipment of two knights on horseback for the more earnest species of tournament, the duel (Scharfrennen, Germ.), which sometimes ended in the , death of one of the parties. The j weight of each of these tilting suits is nearly 2 cwt. They are so ponderous and unwieldy, that the slightest motion was hardly possible; the wearer could not even turn his head, hut must con¬ tent himself with looking straight for- j ward through the scanty opening of his ; heavy helmet. The suits consist of a breastplate, to which is attached a shield, and over it a black target of wood, still hearing the dents of the lance, and a hack-piece. To this was screwed a sort of hook, serving as a rest for the lance, attached to the saddle behind. Without this provision it would have hardly been possible to support, in a horizontal position, the heavy lances used in the tournament. The thighs were not encased, but pro¬ tected by two shields, or pieces of iron, projecting from the saddle on each side. The inspection of these very interesting suits will give a far better insight into the nature of a tournament than the best description. The two different kinds of lance in use at the tournament are here exhibited, one pointed, and intended to pierce through both armour and wearer, and used only in the com¬ bat for life and death; the other ending- in several small spikes, and intended to attach itself to the outside of the ar¬ mour, when driven against it. The 4th room. Another long gal¬ lery is filled with warlike arms for use in the field, not for show, less pon¬ derous and unwieldy than the pre¬ ceding. A large part have been worn in battle. Many of the suits were made for Saxon princes, and other historical characters, and are chronolo¬ gically arranged. The first is that of George the Bearded, Duke of Saxony. Near it is the sword of Thomas Miinzer, the leader of the rebellious peasants in Thuringia, in 1525 ; a character who united the knavery of Jack Cade with the religious madness of the chiefs of the Covenanters in Scotland. The armour of Henry the Pious; of John Frederick the Magnanimous, worn by him when taken prisoner at Miihlberg, 1547. There are 3 suits of the Elec¬ tor Maurice; near them is preserved the blood-stained scarf which he wore at the battle of Sievershausen, and the bullet fired (according to tradition) by a traitor on his own side, which killed him, 1553. The fluted armour of Christian I. is very handsome. Near it is the sword with which the Chancellor Crell was beheaded, in spite of Queen Eliza¬ beth’s intercession on his behalf. It bears the motto, “ Cave Calviniane.” The figure which stands 11th in the row of Saxon princes is that of the Elector John George, who was a leader in the Thirty Years’ War. The 15th, a brown suit, is the armour of Gustavus Adolphus, which he left at Weissenfels before the battle of Liit- zen (in the fight he wore a suit of buff leather, now preserved at Vienna). The marshal’s staves of his opponents, Counts Tilly and Pappenheim, are also preserved here. Among the most interesting histo¬ rical relics is the scale armour worn by the heroic John Sobieski at the siege of Vienna in 1683 ; near it are dis¬ played the trophies, arms, horse-tail standards, &c., gained by the detach¬ ment of Saxon troops who fought under the Duke of Lorraine on that occasion. Their commander, the Elector of Sax¬ ony (whose armour is also here), was the first who planted a Christian flag in the Turkish camp. Farther on is the cuirass of Augustus II., surnamed the Strong, weighing 100 lbs. It would be difficult to find a man at present who could walk in his armour, “ which you can hardly raise from the ground; or wear his cap, which encloses an iron hat, heavier than a caldron. But Augustus, if you believe the Saxons, was a second Samson.” He is said to have “lifted a trumpeter in full armour and held him aloft in the palm of his hand—to have twisted the iron banister of a stair into a rope—and to have made love to a coy beauty by pre¬ senting- in one hand a bag of gold, and breaking with the other a horseshoe.” — Bussell’s Germany. Saxony, Against the walls and pillars of this room are arranged a variety of swords and other weapons, many of which are remarkable for their workmanship, others for their history. Battle-axes and maces of various dates and patterns. A dagger which, after being thrust into the body, separates into three parts on touching a spring, so that it would be impossible to extract it from a wound. A short sword, notched on one side, in¬ tended to catch the blade of an adver¬ sary, and break it short off before it could be disengaged. The dagger of Rudolph of Swabia, who lost his hand while raising it to wound his brother, the Emperor Henry IV., in a single combat at Merseburg, 1080. t The workmanship is very tine. The weapons with which the Bohe¬ mian peasants armed themselves during the Hussite War consist of flails shod with iron; a Polish battle-scythe, of the period of Kosciusko’s revolution —a most fearful weapon, which with one blow might cleave horseman and horse in twain; the sword of Don John of Austria, who commanded at Le- panto. The 5th room contains fire-arms , from their earliest invention in Europe. One of the oldest weapons of this kind is a rude sort of pistol, supposed to date from the end of the 15th cent., a mere iron barrel, 11 \ inches long, with a touchhole in the side. It was fired not by a flint falling upon steel, but by the friction of a file upon a piece of firestone (pyrites). The file was inserted in a groove by the side of the touchhole, it was then covered with powder, and the firestone screwed down tightly in contact with it. When the file was smartly drawn out, the friction served to ignite the powder. The first step of improvement after this was a pistol fired by means of a piece of lighted tow; then came the wheel-lock, and afterwards the falling-lock with flint and steel. Specimens of all these va¬ rieties are preserved here; also the pistols of Maurice of Saxony, splen¬ didly inlaid with silver and ivory. Another pair, remarkable for their plainness, belonged to Charles XII. of [n. g.] 481 . Sweden, and were borne by him on the day of his death at Erederickshal. 6 th. This room is filled with costly stuffs used at the coronations and other festivities of Augustus II. and III., Kings of Poland; trappings and harness for horses, of most rich materials; splendidly embroidered bits and stir¬ rups, and housings for sledge-horses, &c., on which the most elaborate orna¬ ments have been expended. One set of harness is of gold, splendidly ena¬ melled, set with rubies; another of silver set with pearls. In the 4 large cabinets are the state costumes of princes from the 16th to the 18th cent., and in 2 smaller ones are shoes of dif¬ ferent nations ; also those of Kant and Wieland, and the boots of Murat; likewise mitres worn by the bishops of Meissen. The 7 th room is fitted up with a Turkish tent, taken at the siege of Vienna, 1683 ; and its contents are chiefly Turkish and Eastern arms. 8 th. Includes an ethnographical col¬ lection; the garments and weapons of various barbarous and savage nations, partly formed by Prof. Poppig in S. America,—as hammocks, clubs, poi¬ soned arrows, shooting tubes, dresses of coloured feathers, teeth, and claws, arms of the S. Sea Islanders, &c. 9th. Contains riding equipments and parade trappings. Among the historical relics in the last and splendidly orna¬ mented apartments are, the robes worn by Augustus the Strong at his corona¬ tion as King of Poland. By the side of them, as it were to show his claim to the by-name of “ the Strong,” is kept the horseshoe which he broke in two between his fingers ; together with the written testimony of those who were witnesses of this feat of strength. The swords deposited here are among the chief ornaments of the collection; the iron hilts being of carved work, exe¬ cuted at Nuremberg with surprising correctness; there are several hundred of them. The little cocked hat of Peter the Great, and a wooden bowl, turned with his own hand, are among the curi¬ osities hero, Last of all, here may be Y ROUTE 87 . —DRESDEN. ARMOURY. 482 ROUTE 87. —DRESDEN. MUSEUM. ANTIQUITIES. Sect. VII. seen a saddle of red velvet, which be¬ longed to Napoleon; the hoots which he wore at the battle of Dresden, which seem to have sadly needed cobbling; and the satin shoes worn by him at his coronation. Electrotypes of the objects of this c ollection are made of various sizes by the inspector, Mr. Buttner. There is also a collection of 2000 guns of va¬ rious fashions and ages, which may interest sportsmen and soldiers, and a series of twenty pictures representing tournaments, with dates and descriptions. The Museum of Natural History, oc¬ cupying the lower story of the Zwinger, is shown to the public gratis (May 1 to end of Oct.), every Tues. and Fri.; the Zoology, from 8 to 10; the Minerals, 10 to 12. Payment of 5 N. grs. each person will procure admission Mon., Wed., and Thursday, from 9 to 12. This collection is not on a par with many others on the continent, ex¬ cepting the departments of Mineralogy and Geology, which contain objects which a person interested in science would be sorry to have missed. When the Opera-house of the Palace was burnt, during the insurrection of 3rd to 9th May, 1849, a cabinet of stuffed birds, and the valuable Herbarium of Prof. Peichenbach, were burned. The loss has been replaced by the very valuable Botanical Collections of the late King Frederick Augustus, the gift of his widow. Minerals. —The specimens from the Saxon Mines, of the ores of silver, co¬ balt, lead, and iron, are very complete, especially those from Freiberg and the Erzgebirge. One specimen of native sil¬ ver formed part of a mass of pure metal large enough to serve as a dinner-table for the Elector, when he visited the Schneeberg mine, in which it was found. The Fossils are arranged in the 1. wing of the Zwinger. Obs. Bones of the cave bear, from Sundwig; cave hyaena, deer, horse, elephant; rein¬ deer, from Oelsnitz; hippurites, from Lebanon; insects, from the lithogra¬ phic slate; Icthyosaurus trigonodon, from Banz in Bavaria ; Trematosaurus brauris, a colossal lizard, from Bern- burg; fishes of the Kupfer Schiefer; fossil trees, from the Bochtodtliegende of Chemnitz, one a trunk of 5^ ft. diam. ; Cycadeae, from Cracow ; Flora of the coal-field of Saxony and Bo¬ hemia, described by the Director Geinitz. The Japanese Palace, situated in the Neustadt, on the rt. bank of the Elbe, close to the Leipzig gate, was built by Augustus II., as a summer residence. It receives its name from some grotesque oriental figures and ornaments with which it is decorated. It now serves only the purposes of a Museum, and contains the following collections:—- 1. The Museum of Antiquities ( Anti - hensammlung'). 2. The Library. 3. The Collection of Porcelain and Terra Cot¬ tas. 1. The Antiquities, open Wednesday and Saturday, from 9 to 1, from the 1st of May to the 31st of Oct., are placed on the l.-hand side of the entrance hall, on the ground-floor. A traveller fresh from the galleries of Home and Florence may perhaps be disposed to despise this collection, which indeed ranks after that at Munich, &c., and has moreover suffered both from the ignorant mutilations of a barbarous age, and from the reparations and restora¬ tions of a more enlightened period. Nevertheless, there are many objects of high interest, both in point of art and as illustrations of antiquity. A new catalogue is promised. The num¬ bers stood as follows in October, 1849. In the 1st hall are modern works in bronze, and marble, and copies. In the 2nd hall are one or two modern works which deserve notice, as, 53. A bronze bust of Gustavus Adolphus, made from a cast taken after his death —55. A bust of Charles I. of England —54. A bust of Cardinal Bichelieu, of bronze, a characteristic likeness, of good workmanship— 99. Deianira carried off by the Centaur, in bronze, the work of John of Bologna , Saxony. Third Hall. No. 115. A head of Niobe, like the one at Florence, and, though inferior to it, showing that beautiful expression of intense mental agony, of which, it is said, the masters of the Bolognese school sometimes availed themselves in their representa¬ tions of the Virgin, especially in those paintings of the Descent from the Cross, or burial of the Saviour, in which the body lies in the Virgin’s arms. 116. A female bronze head, bust of coloured marble, called the eldest daughter of Niobo. 142. A quadrangular altar with niches for Lares. 143. A Torso of Pal¬ las Promachos, known as the Dresden Minerva. She is clad in the peplus, woven for her by Athenian virgins. A strip in front, representing rich em¬ broidery, is divided into 11 compart¬ ments, the subjects being the battles of the Goddess with the Titans. 141 is a restoration of 143, in clay, by Prof. Rauch of Berlin. Fifth Hall. 169. Cupid playing with a Lion is not very remarkable for exe¬ cution, biit the design is captivating and the expression pleasing. 191. Mi¬ nerva represented as the goddess who presided over the intellectual part of warfare, Greek strategy, and tactics. (Mars was the god of wild combats and battles.) The figure is somewhat masculine in its shape and proportions —there is more of manhood than wo¬ manhood in the appearance of her broad shoulders and narrow hips. The JEgis is thrown on carelessly and awry. 201. A triangular pedestal of a candelabrum, of Pentelic marble. The relief carved on one side represents Hercules with¬ held by Apollo from carrying off the sacred tripod from Delphi; on another side is the reconsecration of the restored tripod; on the 3rd is the consecration of a sacred torch. They are executed in the style called Eginetan. This speci¬ men is curious, as showing the early progress of the art. The faces are all alike, and without expression; the dra¬ peries are stiff, and the hair resembles a coil of rope. 209. A Young Wrestler. 210. Ampelos, or Satyriscus, in the attitude of pouring wine. There are 3 other statues of the same Faun in the 483 collection. This far surpasses the others in beauty of workmanship. Sixth Hall. 260,261,262. A Lady of Herculaneum and her 2 Daughters, found in an almost perfect state in the theatre of Herculaneum—very fine and noble figures. They are interesting as showing the costume of a Roman lady, still more so as specimens of the perfect treatment of draperies by ancient artists. Seventh Hall. 28 3. Torso of a wounded Gladiator, nearly in the attitude of the Dying Gladiator. This is a fragment of great value. It is executed in the most finished style of art; and the ana¬ tomy, especially of the back, is acknow¬ ledged to be unequalled for accuracy. 303. One of the sons of Niobe lying dead. A fine repetition of a well-known statue. Eighth Hall. 349-352. Statues of 4 Romans engaged in the game of Ball (pila). They were at one time errone¬ ously called Gladiators, and are so re¬ stored, with sword-hilts in their hands ; but these are nobles of the time of Hadrian, not slaves. 351 represents the Empr. Hadrian. Ninth Hall. 359. Bust of Caligula in red porphyry. The effigy of this emperor is rare, as most of his statues were destroyed after his death from hatred of his cruelty while living. 383. Venus in the attitude of the Medicean. The upper part down to the knees, ex¬ cept the hand, is antique. The back of this statue is considered by good judges little inferior in exquisite finish to that of the far-famed Venus at Florence. 384. An Athlete anointing himself. 386. Ariadne, abandoned by Theseus, is regarding him with reproachful looks as he departs. The head is modern, but the expression of it is good. The shoulders are exquisite. The end of the 10 th Hall represents one side of a Columbarium, and here and in the adjoining room are some Egyptian, Etruscan, and Roman anti¬ quities. The Collection of Porcelain (Porzellan 5 annulling), on the sunken floor of the Y 2 ROUTE 87. —JAPANESE PAL. ANTIQUITIES. 484 ROUTE 87. —DRESDEN. CHINA. LlRRARlT. Sect, VII. Japanese Palace. It consists of more than 60,000 pieces of china, occupies 20 ill-lighted apartments, and the MS. catalogue of it fills 5 folio volumes. Admission gratis hy tickets on Wednes¬ day afternoon: at other times hy fee of 2 dollars. Besides a large collection embracing the earliest as well as the finest produc¬ tions of native Saxon manufacture, there is an immense quantity of Chinese and Japanese specimens of an old date, hut a deficiency in the later and finer quali¬ ties. Some of the earlier "brown ware was turned in a lathe and polished. There is some Italian and Sevres ware, hut the European porcelain is chiefly that of Meissen. This collection con¬ tains the earliest attempts of Botti- cher, the alchymist, who is said to have made the discovery whilst seeking for the philosopher’s stone. The ware which he produced, and which led to the discovery of true porcelain, is an imperfect opaque porcelain, coloured, hy means of oxide of iron in the clay, of a hrown or reddish hue. * At the entrance near the staircase are 2 leopards as large as life, a colossal bust of Augustus the Strong, and a nose¬ gay. The Chinese and Japanese Porce¬ lain occupies 11 rooms—a part consists of figures of animals of all sorts, grotesques, &c. &c. The Japanese vases are of great size and price, the antiquities of Chi¬ nese porcelain manufacture highly curi¬ ous. Two plain yellow plates, and one of the same colour broken, are of the greatest rarity, since this class of ware is made for the use of “ His Celestial Majesty” alone, and the exportation of them is prohibited under pain of death. A number of beautiful objects in biscuit , such as busts, figures from the antique, groups, the model of a monument to Augustus III. A nosegay of flowers of very delicate workmanship, of a more recent date, and of European origin. Several specimens of French china from Sevres were the gift of Napoleon ; among them are splendid vases, with paintings illustrating the events of his life, &c. &c. * A very full account of tlie curiosities of the Dresden China Gallery will be found in Marryat’s ‘ History of Pottery and Porcelain.’ The Italian earthenware (Majolica) is ornamented with paintings founded on the designs of Baphael, though not actually executed hy him. One set of china contained in this collection was given to the Elector Augustus II., hy Frederick I. of Prussia, in exchange for a company of grenadiers fully j equipped. In the 17th room are Etruscan, Greek, and Homan vases ; German urns from tumuli; Persian and American pottery. | In the 18th, specimens illustrating the I history of the art of pottery in Europe from the 12th to the 19th cent. There is a depot for the sale of Dres¬ den China in the town (in the Augustus Strasse). The Jews get rip fictitious ware, forging the royal mark. Beware of such articles : the painting is had, and does not stand. The best security is to purchase from the royal depot. The manufactory is at Meissen, q. v. The Library , in the first floor of the Japanese Palace, contains about 400,000 volumes, 2800 MSS., and a very large collection of maps. It is open every week-day from 9 to 1, and is exceedingly well arranged. All persons are allowed to consult and peruse hooks in the reading-room. The inhabitants are permitted to take hooks home with them, a privilege also extended to strangers who can get some respectable inhabitant of Dresden to come forward as security for them. Strangers may see the curiosities of this library any time they please, hy sending a previous intimation of an hour to the librarian. There are about 2000 early printed hooks, from the invention of printing to the end of the 15th cent. Among the MSS. are—a Greek MS. of the lOtli cent., interlined with Latin, supposed to have been written in Ireland, one of the greatest curiosities. Alb. Diirer’s Treatise on the Proportions of the Human Body, in his own hand-yvriting, and ornamented with his sketches (1528), a work deserving the notice of every artist. 3 volumes, representing the tournaments held in Dresden from 1487 to 1564, are curious. A volume filled with miniatures of the most celebrated 485 Saxony. route 87. —Dresden. and learned men of the 15th. and 16th cent., drawn, it is conjectured, by the younger Cranach. Several volumes of autograph letters, among which are some of Luther, Mclanchthon, Grotius, Sixtus V., and Bianca Capello. Among the Oriental MSS. is an 8-sidcd Koran, and another which belonged to Sultan Bajazet. A Mexican MS., with hierogly¬ phics, curiously painted on aloe-leaves. The Gospels, written in the 12th cent., with vignettes in the style of Greek art. Fragment of the Zendavesta, MS. of the 15th cent. A collection of Fables in Ara¬ bic, with miniatures. A collection, in 19 vols. folio, made by Fred. Augustus II., of portraits of the princes and prin¬ cesses living in the 17th cent., most carefully coloured, with maps of various countries, and plans of the principal towns, said to have cost 20,000 dollars. King Rene of Anjou’s work on Tour¬ naments, with drawings. The Bible translated into Bohemian, in the 14th cent., and written upon parchment in the middle of the 15th. Item Dr. Faustus’s conjuring book. A very large apartment is occupied by European History : that of Saxony is particularly complete. The Gardens attached to the Japan¬ ese Palace are >very agreeable. They are open to the public, and extend down to the margin of the Elbe, whence the view is pleasing, including the bridge and many of the finest buildings in the town. In the Schloss, at the end of the Grosser Garten, SAY. of the town, is a collection of Mediaeval Antiquities (Alterthumer Museum ), chiefly brought from the Saxon churches, such as altar- pieces of wood carved and gilt, mass- robes, bishops’ mitres, medals, abbatial seals, church plate, relics, &c. Monumental Statues. — Augustus II. on horseback, in the new town, near the end of the bridge, made of ham¬ mered copper. The Elector Maurice in the Boulevard in the Altstadt, nearly opposite the Zeughaus (Arsenal). King Frederick Augustus, of bronze, in the centre of the Zwinger, by Rietschel, Carl Maria von Weber , in front of the STATUES. THEATRES. theatre. In the promenade in the Anton Stadt is a colossal bust of King Anthony. The Theatre near the Catholic Ch., from the designs of Professor Sem¬ per. It holds 1700 persons, and is one of the handsomest in Germany. It is open daily, beginning in winter at 6, in summer at 6^, and ending between 9 and 10. Cercle, best place for gentle¬ men, 1 th.; amphitheatre 1 th. 10 n.-gr. The opera here is good (see § 42). There is a Minor Theatre during winter in the Gewandhaus—Comedy : begins at 7 ; during summer, in the open air in the Grosse Garten. Since 1830 the meetings of the two Chambers of Estates (Landstande), which form the parliament of Saxony, have been open to the public. The Chambers (Landhaus ) are situated in the Pirnaische Gasse. Admittance to read the newspapers at the reading-room ( Literdrisches Mu¬ seum} , Waisenhaus-str., No. 31, first floor, costs 2 n.-gr., or 10 n.-gr. the week. The best shops are in the Schloss and "Willsdruffer Gasse, Moritz-Strasso, Ncu Markt, and Alt Markt. Cafe’s. Those on the Briihl Terrace, especially the Cafe Realc and the Bel¬ vedere, are much frequented in summer. Very fair instrumental music may often be heard at the Belvedere in summer evenings.—N.B. The best on Saturday afternoon. Still finer music at the Linksche Bad , Cafe Fran§ais, 'Waisen- haus Str. Gardens and Restaurants of Public Resort. — Linkisches Bad ; Schiller- schlosschcn; 'Waldschlosschen: all on the rt. bank of the Elbe ; fine views. In the Grosser Garten, Grosse AVirth- schaft. Railroads : Station in the Neustadt, on the rt. bank of the Elbe—To Leipzig and Cologne—to Berlin in 64 hrs.—to Bautzen and Breslau. Station on the S. side of the Old Town—To Prague in 6-7 hrs. — to Vienna in 20 hrs.—to Tharand and Freiburg. 486 ROUTE 87. —DRESDEN. OUTSKIRTS. Sect. VII. Steamers ply up tlie Elbe, in summer, daily: 2 or 3 times a day to Pillnitz and Schandau (in the Saxon Switzer¬ land), twice to Tetscben, and once daily to Lcitmeritz. Steamer , down the Elbe to Meissen, daily 2 or 3 times. English Church Service every Sunday, in the Johannis Kirche, near the Pir- naische Platz, at 11J a.m. and 3J p.m. Physicians .—The principal arc—Dr. "Whither, first physician to the King of Saxony; Dr. Faust; Dr. Seiler,Seegasse: all these speak English. Surgeon. —F. Leonardi. Herr Hollander, 3 Halbe Gasse, and Fraulein Anna Hammer, Addresse Bu¬ reau, are recommended as good teachers of the German language. Ernst Arnold, printseller , Schloss- gasse, has published engravings of the finest pictures in the Dresden Gallery. Promenades. There is no lack of pleasant walks in and about the town. Besides the Terrace of Briihl and the gardens of the Japanese Palace, there are a sort of boulevard, which surrounds the town in the direction of the levelled fortifications, and another pleasant small garden adjoining the Zwinger. Outskirts and Environs. At the dis¬ tance of l m. from the barrier of the town, on the 1. bank of the Elbe, on the way to Pirna, lies the Grosse Garten. a large park filled with fine trees, tra¬ versed by shady walks and drives, con¬ taining several coffee-houses, to which people resort in summer, especially when attracted by a very good band, which often plays here. About a mile S.E. of the town, and •3 m. from the Great Garden, are the fields and slopes which were the ‘ ‘ scenes of the combats and bombard¬ ment preceding the retreat of the French to Leipzig.” The allied force extended all round the old town, from the barrier of Pirna on the Elbe to the marsh of Priesnitz on that river below the town. Immediately behind the small village of Racknitz is the Monument of Moreau. He was struck by a shot from a battery at the angle of the wall now occupied by Dr. Struve’s garden. Napoleon caused the distance to be measured, and it was found to be not less than 2000 yards. A large square block of granite, surmounted by a helmet, has been erected on the spot where he re¬ ceived his mortal wound. His two legs, which were separated from his body by a cannon-ball, are buried here, but his body was conveyed to St. Petersburg. The inscription says, “ Moreau, the hero, fell here, by the side of Alexander, 27th August, 1813.” The view of Dres¬ den from this point is very good. About 4 m. from the Silenau Ply. Stat., on the outskirts of the Neustadt, in the Churchyard (Neustddter Kirchhof ), is a representation of the Dance of Death (Todtentanz), a procession of 27 figures, in several groups, each headed by the skeleton king, who drags on rather roughly, and with a triumphant air, the unwilling throng, composed of per¬ sons of all ranks, ages, and professions. This rude carving, in relief, is of no greater antiquity than 1534. An obe¬ lisk of granite serves as a memorial to 40 soldiers and officers shot down by the Republican rioters in the streets of Dresden, May 1849. Tiedge the poet, and Adelung the phi¬ lologist, are buried in this churchyard. "Weber the composer, who died in Lon¬ don, and whose body was removed from Moorfields in 1844, and Fred. Schlegel, lie in the Catholic churchyard in the Friedrichstadt. The rt. bank of the Elbe, above Dresden, rises in picturesque hills from the edge of the river. These are topped with rich woods, while their lower slopes, turned to the southern sun, are covered with vineyards, and form a continuation of the Saxon wine district, which begins at Meissen, and extends up to Pillnitz. These sunny slopes arc dotted over with neat white villas, in the midst of pleasure- grounds— the retreats of opulent in¬ dustry. Here the venerable and respected Moritz Betsch, the well-known illustrator of Goethe, Schiller, and Shakespeare, had a pretty villa. Here also are several places of public resort, somewhat be¬ tween a tea-garden, cafe, and tavern, 487 ROUTE 87. -DRESDEN. OUTSKIRTS. Saxony . holding out the attraction, irresistible to Germans, of “ a good beer,” such as arc always to be found in the neighbourhood of a German large town. (§ 40 .) Such are the Baths of Link (Linkes Bad), situated about a mile from the bridge in the Schiller Str. in the new town, on the borders of the Elbe, with a garden abounding in alcoves; a Theatre , where dramatic performances take place in summer; and baths. In summer afternoons, especially on Sundays, many hundred persons assem¬ ble here to take their ice, beer, or coifee—to dance, or listen to the music of an excellent band (Thursday). The Wolfshiigel , an eminence rising above the road, commands one of the best views of Dresden. 5 m. walk from the Linkesche Bad is the largo Waldschlosschen brewery, carried on by a company: the beer brewed here is celebrated. The build¬ ing, a striking object from the end of the Briihl terrace, contains rooms for visitors, and there is a terrace much frequented owing to the tine view from it. About a mile further, on the top of the hill beneath which the Elbe flows, on the site of Findlater's House, so called from a Scotch nobleman who resided here, Prince Albert of Prussia has built a splendid residence, Al- brechtsburg. Paths lead from the rear to the Wolfsberg, a hill commanding one of the best views of Dresden. Another modern villa, belonging to Mr. Souchay, is distinguished by its 3 towers. About 3 m. from the Baths of Link, and Itj m. from the point where the post-road to Bautzen turns off on the 1. above Loschwitz , a small red-tiled, dilapi¬ dated country-house is seen, in the midst of a vineyard close to the road. This was for some time the retreat of Schiller, who wrote the greater part of his ‘ Don Carlos ’ in it. The build¬ ing was lent to him by his friend the elder Korncr (father of the poet, who resided in the house below). The view from it is very pleasing. The village immediately opposite Loschwitz, called Blascwitz , has been rendered famous by Schiller, who has named the female suttler in the camp of Wallenstein, Gustel of Blasewitz — the said Gustel being a real person who, in the poet’s time, used to sell cakes at the inn close to the ferry. Following the carriage-road, you pass the Konigs Weinberg , the elegant residence of the late King of Saxony (now of his avMoav), remarkable for the plantations of foreign trees and plants laid out by its founder. Before reaching Pillnitz, near the village of Hosterwitz, is the house in Avhich C. M. von Weber composed his operas of ‘ Der Freischiitz’ and ‘ Oberon.’ It is the first house on the rt., close to the road, after you pass an avenue of poplars running at rt. angles to the road. It is surrounded by Availed vineyards. The excursion by road or Kail to the romantic Plauensche Grand and the vil¬ lage of Tharand is described in Kte. 90. The most interesting of all the ex¬ cursions round Dresden is that to the Saxon Switzerland. (Rtes. 88, 89.) A traveller pressed for time, and unable to make the Avhole tour, should at least devote a day to visit the Bastei , Otto- Avalder Grand, and Konigstein, which might easily be accomplished by starting by the railroad in the morning, so as to breakfast in the inn at the Bastei, pro¬ ceeding thence along the rt. bank of the Elbe to Schandau, crossing the Elbe by ferry at Schandau, dining at Konigstein, and returning by the even¬ ing train to Dresden. By aid of steamer and railway a good deal of the Saxon Switzerland may be visited in afternoon excursions from Dresden, leaving the quiet morning hours to be devoted to the arts. 488 ROUTE 88.——SAXON SWITZERLAND. Sect. VII. ROUTE 88. THE SAXON SWITZERLAND AND TIIE ELBE. (A.) — DRESDEN TO PILLNITZ, TIIE BASTEI, SCHANDAU, KUHSTALL, PRE- BISCHTIIOR, AND HIRNISKRETSCHEN. —RAILWAY. The easiest and most profitable way of visiting Saxon Switzerland, parti¬ cularly for those who cannot devote much time to it, is to set out from Dresden at 7 or 8 o’cl. mom. by rail, with a ticket for the stat. Potscha; there to leave the train, cross the river Elbe to AVehlen, ascend to the Bastei rock, and go on as far as the little town of Schandau, and dine there. In the afternoon, or next day, take a carriage and drive to the AVasser- fall, where hire ponies for Iviihstall and AVinterberg; thence descend to the Elbe by the Prebischthor to Hirnis- kretschen, where you meet the steamer for Dresden, and reach that city at 8 in the evening. Ascertain at Schan- dau the hour at which the steamer leaves Ilirniskretschen. General Information. — The district called the “ Saxon Switzerland” begins about 8 m. above Dresden, and extends beyond the Bohemian frontier. The name of “Switzerland” is not alto¬ gether appropriate, as the scenery of the two countries is very different, and it may perhaps lead to exaggerated ex¬ pectations, and comparisons disadvan¬ tageous to the Switzerland of Saxony. It has none of the glaciers, or snows, serrated ridges, and granite peaks of the real Switzerland, and its mountains are of very inferior height; but it has scenery so peculiar, and so unlike what is found elsewhere, that though it falls short, in sublimity, to that country, the Saxon Switzerland may be visited with surprise and gratification even by those who arc acquainted with the other. The river Elbe flows through the centre of it, and its banks are more interesting in this part of its course than in any other between its source and the sea. “About 4 m. beyond Pillnitz the valley of the Elbe closes; the moun¬ tains become more lofty and bare; the majestic river, quitting at length the rugged and mountainous course which has hemmed him in from his birth in the Mountains of the Giant, and des¬ tined to visit, throughout the rest of his career, only scenes of industry and fertility, comes forth rejoicing from the gorges which you are about to enter. From this point up to the frontiers of Bohemia, the rocks in the neighbour¬ hood of the river, principally on the rt. bank, consisting of a coarse-grained sandstone, are cut in all directions into gorges, as if the chisel had been used to how passages through them. They should rather be called lanes, so narrow are they, so deeply sunk, and so smoothly perpendicular do the gigantic walls of rock rise on both sides. The walls themselves are cut vertically into separate masses, by narrow openings reaching from the summit to the very bottom, as if a cement, which once united them, had been washed away. These perpendicular masses, again, are divided and grooved into layers, or apparent layers, like blocks regularly laid upon each other to form the wall. They generally terminate in some singular form. Some have a huge rounded mass reclining on their sum¬ mit, which appears scarcely broad enough to poise it; others have a more regular mass laid upon them, like the astragal of a Doric pillar; others assume the form of inverted pyramids, increasing in breadth as they shoot higher into the air. Occasionally they present a still more singular appearance; for, after tapering in a conical form to a certain elevation, they begin to dilate again as they rise higher, as if an inverted truncated cone were placed on a right ROUTE 88.—DRESDEN TO PILLN1TZ. 480 Saxony. truncated cone, resembling exactly, but on an infinitely greater scale, what often occurs in caverns, where the descending stalactite rests on an ascend¬ ing stalagmite.” —Russell's Germany. The rock of this district, which ex¬ hibits these phenomena, is the Qua- de'rsandstein of German geologists, agree¬ ing with the green-sand formation of England. “ It crumbles down into a soil soft to the feet, and of sufficient consistency not to be deep or heavy, affording the easiest and least fatiguing walking to the pedestrian. It is dif¬ ficult to tire in such a country, where there is also abundance of shades and delicious water in every valley. Many of the gorges, or narrow val¬ leys, above described, are inaccessible in carriages, so that the entire tour of the Saxon Switzerland can only be made on foot. Nevertheless, most of the finest scenes lie within the distance of a short walk from a railway stat., from the Elbe steamers, or from some car¬ riage-road ; and notice is taken in the following route of those spots where travellers may leave their carriage, and of others to which it may be sent round to meet them. MEANS OF CONVEYANCE. Railway: Dresden to Prague. —Ter¬ minus in the Altstadt, Dresden, S. bank of the Elbe. Trains 5 times a-day, in 7 hours. This line, as far as Aussig, in Bohemia, traverses the whole length of the Saxon Switzerland, being carried along the 1. bank of the Elbe. From its stations, by means of ferries across the Elbe, all the most interesting spots are easily accessible. Thus Potscha is the Stat. for the Bastei; Konigstein for that fortress; Krippen for Scliandau and Kuhstall; Niedergrund for Hemn- skretschen and Prebisch Thor; Boden- bach for Tetschen. Steamers also from Dresden ascend the Elbe to Leitmeritz in Bohemia, tra¬ versing the same beautiful district. In summer they start 2 or 3 times a-day, touching at Pillnitz, Pirna, Konigstein, Scliandau; twice a-day at Tetschen, and once at Leitmeritz. The scenery of the banks of the Elbe is far better seen from the deck of the steamer than from the railway train ; and the excursion may bo pleasantly varied by taking the railway up the Elbe valley, and descending in the steamboat. Good Inns , with comfortable sleep¬ ing accommodation, may be found at the Bastei, Schandau, Gross Winter- berg. Guides abound at the principal inns of the district, who will conduct strangers to the most interesting spots, by the shortest ways. The paths are not difficult to find, however, by any one who can speak German, so as to ask his way. A thaler a day is the usual trinkgeld. Donkeys , ponies , and chaises-a-porteurs may be hired at all the principal stations at moderate charges fixed by tariff. Boats, called Gondeln , may be hired in the towns and villages along the banks. PLAN OF A TOUR OF THE SAXON SWITZERLAND. 2 days, or at the outside 3, sleeping at Schandau and Gr. Winterberg, are amply sufficient to see all that is best worth notice by a person who does not object to rise early, and is moderately strong a-foot. Start from Dresden by an early train of the Prague Eailway with ticket for Potscha Stat. Cross the Elbe in ferry to lhr. Wehlen. Walk up Ottowaldcr Grand to Tcufels Kiiche, Das Thor, &c. Return to T. Kiiche. {Inn: Sachish Schwutz). Take the 1. hand path to 2 The Bastei to breakfast. Descend the path to Rathen. Take a char or a carriage to 2 Schandau. j in char Haidemuhle. On foot to rr Kuhstall. 1 \ Grosser Winterberg. 1 Prebisch Thor. lJr Hermskretschen. (To Tetschen.) Descend the Elbe in boat to 4 1 Krippen Stat. (or in steamer). 3 Konigstein. Walk from stat. up to Fortress, see it, retmn, and dine. Y 3 490 ROUTE 88.—PILLNITZ. Sect. VII. Dresden by rail or steamer. N.B. Travellers passing through the Saxon Switzerland, on their way to Prague or Teplitz, should visit Ivbnig- stein (a chief object in the tour) from Schandau. The Railway to Prague starts from the Altstadt in Dresden, on the 1. bank of the Elbe, and, sweeping past the S. side of the town, skirts (1.) the great Garden; (rt.) passes Moreau’s monu¬ ment; and thence follows the wind¬ ings of the Elbe, along the 1. bank of that river. 1. 1-5 Pima Stat.— Inns: Weisses Boss; Schwarzer Adler, outside the walls. This small and unimportant town of 5500 Inhab. lies on the high road from Dresden to Teplitz, and on the br mk of the Elbe. Carriages and boats are kept for hire here. 1. A little above Pima stands the Castle of Sonnenstein , on an elevated rock, at the back of which the high road passes, before it descends into the town. It was originally a fortress and a state prison. Patkul, afterwards so cruelly murdered by Charles XII., was confined in it. It was obstinately de¬ fended by the French in 1813. It is now a Lunatic Asylum. [rt. Pillnitz (Lin: Goldener Lowe) in summer is the residence of the Court of Saxony from May to Sep¬ tember. The Palace, built 1818, in the place of a previous one destroyed by fire, is not very imposing externally, but it contains some very good modern frescoes by the Saxon artist Vogel: those in the Great Saloon represent the Arts — Painting, Sculpture, Architec¬ ture, and Music. The chapel is adorned with several subjects by the same artist, exhibiting more of the refined conception and bold execution of the old masters than is usually found in modem works of this class. Pillnitz was the place of meeting of a Con¬ gress of Sovereigns, in 1791, includ¬ ing the Empr. Leopold II., Frederick William II. of Prussia, the Due d’Artois (afterwards Charles X.), Ca- lomie, and many French exiles, who projected a crusade against reyolution- ary France as the means of reinstating the Bourbons on its throne. There are gardens and hot-houses attached to the palace, and agreeable walks along the heights above pleasure-grounds. The Porsbcrg, an hour’s walk to the X.E., commands fine prospects. The road to Lohmcn lies by the side of one of those glens or gorges for which this country is remarkable, called Liebethaler Grand. Though pretty, it is inferior in beauty to many others; so that persons pressed for time may re¬ serve themselves for the Ottowalder Grund on the other side of Lohmen. It takes about 2 hrs. to walk through the Liebethaler Grundy and carriages may be sent round to Lohmen. A clear stream runs, or rather rolls, down the glen, leaving scarcely room to walk by the side. The path passes large quarries, from which millstones are obtained, and leads up the glen as far as the Lochmiihle, a mill sunk deep in the gorge, and wedged in between per¬ pendicular cliffs. The path lies through the miller’s house, where refreshments may bo obtained ; and then, ascending out of the gorge by a flight of some 180 steps, proceeds along the top of the cliffs, by Dauba, to Lohmen, a small village with a poor country inn, and an old castle on the brink of a precipice, from which a peasant is said to have fallen while asleep into the depth below, and to have recovered from his injuries. After traversing the greater part of the long village of Lohmen, a footpath turns off suddenly to the rt. to Otto- walde, or Uttewalde, distant 2 m. The Ottowalder Grund , another ravine, also to be traversed only on foot, and which no one should omit to explore, is remarkable for the height of its sides and the narrow space separating its walls asunder, so that the sun scarce penetrates into its depths. It possesses some remarkable objects: 1st. Das Thor, “the gate;” where3large cubic-shaped masses of rock, having fallen from above, arc jammed in between them so as to form a natural roof, under which, as under an arch, the traveller must pass. Then comes the “ Stone House,” being- various large masses of rock exactly 49 i ROUTE 88.—SAXON SWITZERLAND. THE RASTER Saxony. resembling the roof of a house. 3rdly. Teufels Kiiche, or “Devil’s Kitchen,” a large natural excavation, which puts one in mind of the Abbot’s Kitchen at Glastonbury. Shortly after this the ravine divides into 2 ways : the rt. leads to Wehlen; the 1. hand path, emerging from the depths of the Ottowaldcr Grand, crosses the carriage-road from Dresden and Lohmen, and brings you at the end of ^ hr’s. walk to the verge of the gigantic precipice called The Bastei, or Bastion; close to which there is a tolerable Inn, much thronged, however, in summer. The Bastei, from which is obtained one of the finest views in the dis¬ trict, “'is the name given to one of the largest masses of rock which rise close by the river on the rt. bank. One narrow block, on the very summit, projects into the air. Perched on this, not on, but beyond , the brink of this precipice, you command a prospect which, in its kind, is unique in Europe. You hover on the pinnacle, at an eleva¬ tion of more than 600 ft. above the Elbe, which sweeps round the bottom of the precipice. Behind, and up along the winding river on the same bank, rise similar precipitous cliffs, cut and intersected like those already described. From the farther bank, the plain gra¬ dually elevates itself into an irregular amphitheatre, terminated by a lofty but rounded range of mountains. The striking feature is, that in the bosom of this amphitheatre, a plain of the most varied beauty, huge columnar hills start up at once from the ground, at a great distance from each other, overlooking, in lonely and solemn grandeur, each its own portion of the domain. They are monuments which the Elbe has left standing to comme¬ morate its triumph over their less hardy kindred. The most remarkable among them are the Lilienstein and Konigstein, which tower, nearly in the centre of the picture, to a height of about 900 ft. above the level of the Elbe. They rise perpendicularly from a sloping base, formed of debris , and now covered with natural wood. The approach to the summit is so difficult, that an Elector of Saxony and King of Poland thought the exploit which he performed in scrambling up to the top of the Lilien¬ stein deserving of being commemorated by an inscription. The access to the Kdnigstein is artificial, for it has long been a fortress; and, from the strength of the situation, is still a virgin one. Besides these, the giants of the terri¬ tory, the plain is studded with many other columnar eminences of the same general character, though on a smaller scale; and they all bear, from time im¬ memorial, their particular legends—for the mountains of Saxony and Bohemia are the native country of tale-telling tradition, the cradle of Gnomes and Kobolds. In the deep rents and gloomy recesses of the Lilienstein , hosts of spirits still watch over concealed trea¬ sures. A holy nun, miraculously trans¬ ported from the irregularities of her convent to the summit of the Non- nenstein , that she might spend her days in prayer and purity in its ca¬ verns, is commemorated in the name of the rock; and the Jungfernsprung , or Leap of the Virgin, perpetuates the memory of the Saxon maid, who, when pursued by a brutal lustling, threw herself from the brink of its hideous precipice, to die unpolluted.”— Russell’s Germany. These stiff bare rocks, rising from the earth, manifest, though now disjoined, that they once formed one body, all the softer parts of which have mouldered away, and left only the naked, inde¬ structible framework. The scene beheld from the Bastei will most assuredly detain the traveller for hours. The view over the plain, however, is not the only wonder of this remarkable spot. Behind, and at one side of the Bastei, numerous gigantic pinnacles of rock, separated from the main body by rents and chasms of tre¬ mendous depth, shoot upwards to a great height, in every variety of fan¬ tastic forms. So slight and slender are these natural pillars and obelisks, that it is difficult to understand how they maintain themselves upright at a height of several hundred feet. Numerous tufts of large trees have struck root in the crannies of these rocks, where there appears not an 402 ROUTE 88. —IlOCHSTEIN. HOHNSTEIN. LILIENSTEIN. Sect. VII. incli of earth to nourish them. These slender pinnacles have been rendered accessible from the main land by slight bridges of wood and stone spanning the chasms. A band of robber knights in former times set up a nest-like castle upon some of the loftiest and apparently most inaccessible of them; it was called Burg Neurathen , and scanty remains of its masonry are still visible. The entrance on one side was through a natural arch and over a drawbridge; the approach on the other lay through a cleft 3 ft. wide, and was closed by a portcullis formed of a slab of stone, which ran in grooves still visible in the rocky walls. The narrow planks with which the robbers bridged the chasms around them were easily removed when danger threatened, and their stronghold was then impregnable. From this lofty eyrie they watched the approach of vessels on the Elbe, and dashed down to pillage or make captive, being long enabled by their position to bid defiance to legal authority. This fortress was at length destroyed in 1468; but in 1639, during the horrors of the Thirty Years’ War, many poor refugees, driven out of their houses in the plain, sought shelter from the enemy among these crags. There is a carriagc-road from the Bastei to Schandau , leaving Hohnstein, on the opposite side of the ravine, on the 1., and winding down a long and gradual descent towards the Elbe, among rocks and thickets, commanding magnificent views, by turns into the ravine on the 1., and into the valley of the Elbe, including the noble rock of Lilienstein, on the rt. It is one of the finest landscapes in the Saxon Switzer¬ land. From the Bastei a steep path also descends by a stone bridge of 7 arches, resting on the rocky obelisks or pin¬ nacles by way of piers, through the narrow cleft above mentioned, to the margin of the Elbe and the village of llathcn, at the foot of the Bastei, 2 hour. rt. At Bathen a ferry takes you over the Elbe to Botscha St at., and the tra¬ veller bound for Teplitz or Prague, and not intending to descend the Elbe again, may cross here and follow the 1. bank as far as Konigstein, after which, re¬ crossing the river higher up, opposite to Schandau, he may either retrace his steps down the rt. bank as far as the Tiefer Grund, and proceed through it to Hohnstein and the Brand, or go at once to Schandau. [From the foot of the Bastei at Rathen a path threads the bottom of other ravines as far as Ilochstein. The waterfall of the Amsel Grund, though much praised by the natives, is but a sorry affair, especially after the cataracts of Switzerland; indeed, there is not one waterfall in the whole of this dis¬ trict worth the trouble of stepping 2 yards aside to see it. * Ilochstein is a projecting promontory of rock, 400 ft. high, commanding a very striking view, approachable by a frail bridge thrown over a deep dark gulf, or yawning abyss, called Wolfsschlucht. It is made accessible by ladders and by steps cut in the sides; and, from traces of walls and iron hooks fastened in the rock, it is probable that there was once a fort here, serving as a watch-tower or outwork to the castle of Hohnstein on the opposite side of the valley. Hohnstein [Inn, Hirscli) is a village of 900 Inhab., with a Castle, which is sur¬ rounded on all sides by precipices. The fearful dungeons were once used as state prisons. A carriage-road leads from Hohn¬ stein to the Brand , another very good point of view, but inferior to the Bastei. The road then passes down the Tiefer Grund , a valley so narrow that the sun appears rarely to penetrate it, to the banks of the Elbe, which it follows for about I-5 m., till it reaches Schandau.] The course of the Elbe above the Bastei is very tortuous, nearly encircling the singular tabular hills. rt. Lilienstein is the highest of the 12 isolated table mountains of the Saxon Switzerland, surpassing by 168 ft. its opposite neighbour Konigstein. Its summit, 1254 ft. above the sea, is accessible from the village of Ebcnheit, by narrow paths cut in the rock, and by scaling-ladders placed against the precipice. These moans of access were ROUTE 88.—KONIGSTEIN. 493 Saxony. first prepared in 1708, by order of Augustus II. of Saxony, after having- himself made the ascent; an exploit of which he was so proud, that he set up an obelisk, which still re¬ mains, to commemorate it (p. 491). The view from the top extends down the Elbe as far as Dresden and Meis¬ sen, and upwards to the Bohemian mountains. The French laid out around the base of Lilienstein, in 1813, a fortified camp, the ramparts of which still remain in part; it communicated by 2 bridges of boats with Konig- stcin. During the Seven Years’ War (1760) an army of 17,000 Saxons laid down their arms here to Frederick the Great, in sight of Augustus, their so¬ vereign, who was shut up at the time in the fortress. Konigstein Stat. 1. Konigstein ( Inn: Blauer Stern) is a small town of 1300 Inhab. on the Elbe. Above it, at a height of 779 ft. from the river, 864 ft. above the sea, rises the virgin fortress of Konigstein , almost the only one in Europe never yet taken. Viewed from a distance it bears a strong resemblance to one of the “hill forts” of India, and will give an European an exact idea of those singular strongholds. It is deemed impregnable from its lofty situation, surrounded on all sides by perpendi¬ cular escarpments of several hundred feet, which have been improved by artificial cuttings, while the weaker places have been filled in with masonry; but more than all from its isolated position, so far removed from any other height—the Lilienstein and Pfaffenstein, on opposite sides, being each 3000 yards distant—that before Armstrong’s invention it could not be commanded by artillery. Napoleon endeavoured to batter it from Lilien¬ stein ; but, after raising 3 pieces of cannon with great difficulty to the summit, ho found that the balls fell short. His guns were only 6-i>ounders, and Lilienstein has since been battered from Konigstein with 12 and 24- pounders. The approach to it is most ex¬ traordinary, through a steeply sloping- way cut in the living rock, which rises on cither side like a wall, and partly by a sloping- wooden bridge, which, when removed in time of war, leaves the gateway unapproachable, high up in the face of the cliff. Besides this, it is defended by outworks and drawbridges, after the manner of many Indian hill forts. The platform on which the fortress is built is several acres in extent, and a mile in circuit. This space is partly cultivated in fields and gardens, and includes a wood of forest-trees; it produces a little corn, and pasturage for one or two cows, so as to suffice in part to support a garrison of 1200 men, the war com¬ plement, for whom 2 years’ provisions are always kept in store. In time of peace not more than 200 are stationed here. A well , cut to the depth of 613 ft. in the solid rock, supplies them with water from an inexhaustible spring; and enormous casemates, also excavated, serve as storehouses for provisions. To this fortress Saxony owes the preserva¬ tion of her priceless collection of works of art, virtu, and antiquity, her picture gallery and Green Vault. Cases for every article of value in the “ Green Vault ” are kept ready at hand, to pack them in, and send them to Konigstein in case of war. The treasm-es of the Saxon monarchs have frequently been deposited here, to be out of harm’s way; and indeed Frederick Augustus II. himself took refuge here during the Seven Years’ War, and the late King- lived here 3 months in 1849. A ledge projecting- over the precipice has the name of the Page's Bed , from the cir¬ cumstance of a drunken page of the Elector John George having been found on it fast asleep. II is master, to warn him of the risk he ran, and to frighten him, caused him to be tied down, and then awakened by a pistol fired close to his ear. This fortress served once as a state prison: it was scaled for the first time in 1848 by a chimney-sweep, at mid-day; he reached the top half dead with fatigue. Strangers are admitted on showing their pass¬ ports and on paying a fee of 1 thaler, which admits 8 persons: nothing should prevent the traveller visiting it. In¬ dependently of the fortress itself, the yiew from its walls is most beautiful, 494 ROUTE 88. —SCHANDAU. KUHSTALL. WINTERBERG. Sect. VII. being panoramic, and is one of the most striking in the Saxon Switzer¬ land. 1. Krippen Stat. Here is a ferry oyer the Elbe, leading to rt. Schandau. Inns: *Forsthaus, best; Dampfscliiff; Deutsches Haus ; all 3 on the Elbe. Badhaus, an inn out of the town about £ m. up the valley of the Kirnitsch, at a spot where a mineral spring supplies some baths, much frequented by Dresdeners in summer, rather dear. Schandau is a town of 1000 Inhab. on the rt. bank of the Elbe, here crossed by a ferry at the junction of the streamlet called Kirnitsch. From its central situation, Schandau is convenient head-quarters for those who propose to explore at their ease the Saxon Switzerland; and Krip¬ pen stat., on the Dresden and Prague railway, is only about -| m. after cross¬ ing the ferry. A good walker, setting out early from Schandau, might visit in one clay the Kuhstall , Winterberg, Prebischthor, and Hcrrnskrctschen, and return by steamer or rail to sleep at the Baths. Excursions. —a. To the Pfaffenstein and Konigstein, crossing the Elbe in ferry —a delightful drive of 6 or 7 hours. Carriage can approach near to the top of the Pfaffenstein, then a short sharp climb brings you to the top—grand view. b. To Kuhstall and Winterberg ; car¬ riage-road, traversed by omnibus. [A carriage-road runs up the beau¬ tiful valley of the Kirnitsch, to the Haidemuhle, about 6 m. from Schan¬ dau. Beyond this the paths must be tra¬ versed on foot, or on ponies or chaises a porteurs for ladies, which must be ordered beforehand. A path turns abruptly to the rt., across a brook and up a steep wooded hill, and, after a mile of ascent, brings you to the Kuhstall. The Kuhstall (cow-stall) is a natural arch or cave in the rock, 30 ft. high and 40 wide, 800 ft. above the sea, under which one passes to a sort of terrace commanding a most striking view of the valley far below. During the Thirty Years’ War the peasants drove their cattle hither for safety, ? whence its name. Many of the per¬ secuted Protestants, expelled from Bohemia by the Emp. Ferdinand II. and the Jesuits, took refuge here with their families. This cave forms the frame to a singular picture. The traveller sees around him rocks heaped upon rocks, many crowned with fir- trees, reminding an Englishman of the scenery near Tunbridge Wells, only on a much grander scale. A narrow fissure in the sandstone, which can just bo ascended by a person of moderate size, leads to a platform on the top of the Kuhstall. The Wochenbett is a cavern so named, because the “women in the straw” were placed there for greater security when this spot was an asylum for the persecuted. An abrupt descent through a chasm, literally a crack in the rock, on the 1. of the Kuhstall, leads into the valley, where a sand-strown and easily dis¬ cernible path traverses fields and forests as far as the foot of the hills called Lesser and Great Winterberg. The Lesser Winterberg is the steeper of the two, and more tiresome to surmount. The Great Winterberg , 1768 ft. above the level of the sea, and 1628 above the Elbe (3 m. from Kuhstall), is a knob of trap piercing through the sandstone, and one of the highest mountains in the district; in ascending it, the guide points out a projecting rock, to the veiy verge of which one of the Electors of Saxony was driven by an infuriated stag which he had wounded in the chase. Just as the animal was bending- down its antlers to toss him over the precipice, the prince succeeded in shoot¬ ing it through the heart. On the sum¬ mit there is a good inn, where travellers may obtain decent fare and beds, if they make up their mind to pass a night here for the sake of seeing the sun rise over the Bohemian mountains. The view is very striking, extending to the mountains of Silesia; the various isolated hills nearer at hand rise up like pillars out of the valley of the Elbe, whose winding course is commanded for a long distance. From the Winterberg the path plunges down amidst the seared remains of the forest, and soon crosses the Bohemian frontier, An hour’s walk 495 ROUTE 90. -DRESDEN TO HOF. Saxony. brings yon toth e*Prebisch Thor , another natural arch, hollowed out of the rock, but more remarkable, and of much more colossal dimensions, than the Kuhstall. It is 66 ft. high, 98 broad, 1402 ft. above the sea. The Thor itself is very grand ; but the view from the platform on the top is magnificent, finer even than that from the Bastei. The scenery near at hand is exceedingly wild, and the distant outline of the Erzge¬ birge borders the horizon. A steep path descends from this, and follows the course of the Biel, a small brook, and afterwards of the Kamnitz, a larger stream, turning several saw-mills, until it enters the Elbe.] Niedergrund Stat. See 2 of the singular columnar hills peculiar to the district, the Zirkelstcin and Kahlstein. rt. Herrnskretschen, or Himiskretschen , a small village on the estate of the Bohe¬ mian prince Clary, having an Inn on the Elbe, 2 h. easy walk from the AYinterberg. Large timber rafts are constructed here, and are floated down the Elbe when the water is high. Here is a ferry, by which the railway may be reached by the traveller should he fail to catch the steamer to take him to Dresden or Prague. 1. Several tunnels are driven through the rock near Bodenbach Stat. Here the Austrian frontier is crossed. Directly opposite, on the rt. bank of the Elbe, is the small town of Tetschen (Inn: Silver Star) and the handsome chateau of Count Thun ; the scenery of the Elbe hereabouts is very interesting. (Sec Bte. 263 in Handbook for South Ger¬ many.) Boats (gondela) may be hired on terms fixed by a printed tariff at Herrnskretschen, to ascend or descend the Elbe. rt. The Schrammstein, a bold per¬ pendicular promontory of sandstone, overtops the neighbouring hills. Near the river it has a columnar fracture, but inland it assumes the form of a gigantic Cyclopean wall. BOUTE 90. DRESDEN TO IIOF IN BAVARIA, BY THE VALLEY OF PLAUEN, FREIBERG, AND CHEMNITZ. RAIL. 24 Germ. m. = 116 Eng. m. A railway to Tharand, Plauen, and Freiberg. 4 trains daily to Freiberg in 1^ hr. It is called Alberts-Bahn. Terminus, outside the Willsdruff suburb of Dresden. The railway to Chemnitz from the Biesa Stat. of the Leipzig and Dresden railway (Bte. 87) opens another com¬ munication between Dresden and Chemnitz. Trains in 5 hours (Bte. 91). On leaving Dresden the railroad crosses the small river AYcisseritz, and follows its coiu'sc for about 2 m. to Plauen Stat ., a village of a few houses and water-mills, at the entrance of the very picturesque glen called the Plauensche Gr-und, with precipitous rocky sides or slopes, overgrown with underwood. It has been compared to the scenery of Ilackfall, in York¬ shire. The Railroad passes through it by the side of the AVeisseritz, a stream very useful in turning the wheels of many mills, which give a lively air to its banks. The valley opens out into a broad green meadow, near the industrious village of Potschappel Stat., close to which there are coal-mines, iron-forges, glass-works, &c. Agates are found in the rocks around, and in the beds of the streams; coke is made here to supply the smelt¬ ing furnaces at Freiberg. 2 i Tharand Stat. ( Inns: Deutsches Haus; Ilirsch), a watering-place and village with 1000 Inliab. : its mineral baths are much frequented in summer by the inhabitants of Dresden. It is 496 ROUTE 90. —FREIBERG. CATHEDRAL. Sect, VII. romantically situated on a spot where 3 valleys meet, 2 of them sending forth streams which unite and flow through the Plauensche Grand into the Elbe. It takes hut 10 min. to ascend from the inn to the ruins of the Old Castle, perched on a promontory of rock, from which you look down into the deep and picturesque valley on either side. The ruin is the remains of a hunting-seat of the ancestors of the present King of Saxony. It is worth while to take a guide to explore some of the other pretty walks in this neighbourhood, such as the Forstgarten , from which there is a tine view, and the beech avenue called the Hcilige Hallen. The Forstgarten is a nursery forest, containing 1000 species of trees and shrubs attached to the Forst-Academie subsisting here, in which a certain number of students are instructed in the forester’s art, and in everything relating to planting trees and rearing timber. On the banks of the river Mulde, which the railroad crosses on approach¬ ing Freiberg, on a viaduct 78 ft. high, are several silver-mines; the chief is that called Himmelfahrt (Ascension), producing 8000 lbs. of pure silver, worth 200,000 dollars, per annum. The tra¬ veller's attention is arrested by the ceaseless tinkling of a bell. This is attached to the works of the mines, and its use is to give notice to the miners that all is right in the works below. If a rope break, or any other accident befall the machinery, the bell ceases to ring, and attention is thus instantly called to it. 21 Freiberg Stat.— Inns: II. do Saxe; Schwarzes ltoss (Black Horse) — an ancient and decayed imperial city, still surrounded by its old walls and ditch. It contained 40,000 Inhab. in the days of its prosperity; it has now only 17,500. It is the capital of the mining district of Saxony, and its rise and fall have kept pace with the productiveness of its silver-mines, which were dis¬ covered and worked as far back as the 12 th cent. They have of late much Mien off, owing in a great degree to the richest veins being worked out, or to the shafts being driven so deep that it is impossible to chain off the water from them. A project for clearing them, by piercing a tunnel through the mountains to the Elbe at Meissen, is in progress, and is certainly one of the most stupendous undertakings of the kind in Europe, its length being about 24 m. It has been calculated by Brcitliaupt, that the Freiberg mines have produced, in the 640 years during which they have been worked, down to 1825, 82,000 cwt. of silver, or the worth of 240 millions of dollars. The amount of silver gained in 1850 equalled 800,000 dollars. Freiberg was long the residence of the Saxon princes, who bestowed on it many immunities and privileges, and several of whom are interred in the *Dom Kirclie ( Cathedral ), a handsome Gothic building, dating from 1484. In the choir behind the altar is the tomb of Maurice of Saxony, a lofty sarco¬ phagus, richly adorned with sculpture and marble in the Italian style of the 16th cent., surmounted by his kneeling effigy, by one Floras, an artist of Ant¬ werp. Above it, in a niche, is placed the armour worn by him at the battle of Siovershausen, where he was killed, after gaining the victory, by a shot from behind; the hole made by the bullet is still visible. The standards taken in the battle were hung over his grave; they have dropped to pieces with age, and the wormeaten staves will not long outlast them. In the Lady Chapel adjoining are buried Henry the Pious and his successors down to Christian I., by whom it was built, 1503. It is enriched with Saxon marble and serpentine, and contains some fine bronze gilt statues by P. Boselli; the pavement is inlaid with 29 very fine brasses, not unlike those of England. The cloisters arc converted into a sort of Museum of Antiquities. Other curiosities of this church are two pulpits of Gothic workmanship, curiously carved in stone ; one, in the form of the cup of a flower, is sup¬ ported by figures of the master mason and his apprentice who executed it; and a fine organ by Silbermann. Most deserving of notice, however, is the Golden Gate, a richly ornamented, deeply recessed, round-arched portal, 497 Saxony. route 90 .—freiberg in the Romanesque style, date 1175-89, which belonged to the Frauen- kirche, destroyed by fire in 1484; the sculpture shows very good feeling for art: it is well worth notice. Beside it is the tomb of the celebrated geolo¬ gist Werner, who died here in 1817. Once a quarter a sermon is preached in this church to the miners, who all attend in a body. The liathhaus, near the chm’ch, is a good specimen of N. German Gothic (built 1410). The old houses are en¬ tered by an ornamental arch with a niche and scat on either side, a fashion prevalent r .in Saxony and Silesia. In the market-place , opposite the Rath-house, a flat round stone in the pavement marks the spot where Kunz of Kaufungen, the robber-knight, who stole the two young Saxon princes, Ernest and Albert, from their father’s palace, was beheaded, 1455. The School of Mines (Bcrcj- Academic') is the most renowned in Germany, and students repair hither for instruction in the art of mining from all quarters of the globe. Humboldt, Werner, Jameson of Edinburgh, Mohs, and many other eminent mineralogists and geologists, were pupils in this institu¬ tion. Instructions are given by pro¬ fessors both in the practice and theory of the art; in surveying, mining, and the preparation of ores, as well as in geology, mineralogy, &c. The Museum of the School of Mines is very rich in remarkable specimens of all the mineral productions of Saxony, and includes the splendid and useful collection of Werner himself. It is not deficient in the geological depart¬ ment and in fossils. The Collection of Models of the Mines , and the Machinery used in them, will give an uninitiated person a clear idea of the nature of a miner’s operations, or at least will pre¬ pare one who purposes visiting them for understanding the processes when on the spot. There is an office for the sale of minerals attached to this esta¬ blishment. There are said to be about 130 Mines of silver, copper, lead, and co¬ balt, round Freiberg: the prevailing rock in which they are situated is a . MINES AND MINERS. primary gneiss. To see a mine tho¬ roughly will occupy about 3 h. A permission must first be obtained from the Bergmeister, in Freiberg. Stran¬ gers are provided with a miner’s dress at the entrance of the mine. Most of the mines are distant a mile or two from the town, and proper guides are appointed to conduct persons thither. The mine most conveniently visited, perhaps, is that called the Kurfiirst (Elector), because it is large and dry; it lies near Gross-Schirma. The Alto Mord Gnibe (Old Murder Mine) has very remarkable hydraulic pumps for extracting the water. The principal ores of silver are, argentiferous sulphuret of lead, native silver, and red silver. The Amalgamir - Werk at Ilalsbriick, about 3 m. out of the town, where the pure silver is obtained from the less productive ores by amalgamation with quicksilver, is well worth seeing. The process is carried on hero upon the most scientific principles. At Ilalsbriick are also situated many smelting-furnaces. What is called the Hebehaus , a sort of crane (like the staiths on the Tyne), by which boats are raised out of the Mulde into a canal, is a guide-book wonder not worth the trouble of the walk. The Miners of the Saxon Erzgebirge are a somewhat primitive class. Their form of salutation is by the words “ Gluck auf.” They are enrolled in a sort of semi-military corps, of which the common workmen are the privates, and the superintendents and managers the officers. They are called out se¬ veral times a year for inspection or parade, and in addition assemble in a body at certain stated times to attend miners’ prayers in the church, at the funeral of a superior officer, during the visit of a royal personage, and on days of rejoicing for the discovery of a rich vein. On these occasions they appear in uniform, their leather aprons fastened on behind, leather pockets in the place of cartouclie-boxes, and a large knife stuck in the girdle. The common miners march with their pickaxes shouldered, the carpenters with their axes, and the smiths with their ham¬ mers borne in the same fashion. These 498 ROUTE 90. —CHEMNITZ : MANUFACTURES. Sect. VII. processions have a martial appearance, are headed hy a hand playing a miners’ march, and accompanied hy flying co¬ lours. The officers have similar uni¬ forms, distinguished according to their rank. All, up to the chief, or Berg- Hauptman, whether in working cos¬ tume or in full dress, wear the singular /u'ncfer-apron, which, from its position, hears a very significant name. Even the sovereign, were he to appear on the spot, as head miner of Saxony, could not dispense with this appendage. To he deprived of it is the greatest disgrace to which the miner can he subjected ; he thereby loses his privilege, and the dishonour is equal to that of knocking off the spurs from a knight’s heels. The road from Freiberg to Carlsbad hy Joachimsthal is described in Hand¬ book for South Germany. (Etc. 259.) The Ely. is in progress to Chemnitz. Meanwhile diligences daily. After quitting Freiberg, our road leaves on the rt. the hamlet of Gross Schirma, and passes the mines of Neu- Gottes-Segen (New Blessing of God), and farther on of Himmclsfurst (Prince of Heaven), once the richest in the district, and one of the most productive mines in Europe, about 2 m. S.E. from Freiberg. 2 | Oederan {Inns: Post; Hirsch), a manufacturing town of 3130 Inhab. The little village Flohe is remarkable as the birthplace of the eminent states¬ man and lawyer Sam. Puffendorf, whose father was the minister here. On the rt. of the village of Flohe rises the castle of Augustusburg , built 1572 hy the Elector Augustus. It has a well 286 yards deep, cut in the rock ; and a lime-tree 400 years old is still growing in its garden. The chapel contains 2 pictures by L. Cranach. 21 Chemnitz Stat. {Inn, Bomi sober Kaiser; Blauer Engel) is the prin¬ cipal manufacturing town in Saxony (45,400 Inliab.), situated in a beau¬ tiful and well-watered valley. The cotton goods, especially stockings, for which it is chiefly celebrated, and to which it owes its present prosperity, rival even the English in quality and cheapness. In the quantity of hosiery produced Saxony already equals Great Britain. The spacious factory of Becker and Schraps, the largest in Saxony, has 18,600 spindles. Stock¬ ings for the American market, which are almost exclusively supplied hence, are made here at the low rate of 3s. 4 cl. a dozen. u The chief inferiority to the British lies in their want of elasticity. The stocking-weavers for the most part are not congregated into manu¬ factories, hut live in cottages of their own, the fee-simple of which they have purchased by their own earnings. They cultivate in their own gardens the potatoes and other vegetables which form their usual food, and support from the same source the animals which pro¬ vide them with the small quantity of meat they consume; they live com¬ monly with great frugality on potatoes and coffee. When the demand for manufacture is slack, they employ themselves in the field and garden; when it is active, they devote them¬ selves to their frames and looms. The state provides them with gratuitous instruction, which has the happiest effect botli on their industry and fru¬ gality.” Bowring. — Chemnitz is also famous for the manufacture of spinning machinery, which is sent to all parts of the Continent. For 400 years it was a free imperial city, and still displays in its buildings marks of its antiquity. The ancient Avails have been pulled doAvn, and their site converted into a pleasant Boulevard connecting the old town with its fine thriving suburbs. The Great Church , Stadtkirche , has a richly carved portal, imitating a framework of boughs, carved in stone, 1525; Avithin, a stone pulpit with bas-reliefs, 1536, and an altar-piece of which the original centre is destroyed, but the wings, painted with 4 saints, are probably by Wohlgemuth. Next to it the chief buildings are the Rathhaus and Gewandhaus (cloth hall). Railways to ZAvickau and Hof, to Eiesa, on the Leipzig and Dresden line. (Ete. 87.) 21 Lungwitz, a long village filled Avith stocking-Aveavers. Beyond Lich¬ tenstein the road traverses the valley of Mulsengrund, whose 8000 Inhab. are chiefly stockingers, 499 Saxony . rte. 90. —zwickau. rte. 91. —Leipzig to hoe. Glauchau Stat. 2 | Zwickau Stat. ( Inns: Tannc, best; Post), a picturesque town, partly surrounded by an old wall, on the banks of tbe Zwickauer-Mulde, lias 20,500 Inliab. St. Mary's Ch ., tbe finest Gothic edifice in tbe Erzgebirge, date 1453-1536, is distinguished by its tall tower, which Luther often ascended on account of the pleasing view it coni* mands. Within the ch. is a very fine altar-piece by the old German master Wohlgemuth , representing the Virgin and 9 life-size figures of female saints, surrounded by a richly carved Gothic frame-work, executed 1479, sculptured in wood. The Holy Se¬ pulchre, in the sacristy, is an elaborate piece of carving. In the Baptismal Chapel is a good picture by Cranach , “ Suffer the little Children.” In the ch. of St. Catherine (date 1465), the high altar-piece, the Feet Washing and other subjects, is by Hans v. Culmbach, an artist of the Nuremberg school. There is a good road from Zwickau to Carlsbad, through Schneeberg and the Erzgebirge. (Etc. 91 a.) Coal-beds are extensively worked in the neighbourhood of Zwickau. About 15 m. S.E., at Aue, there are extensive cobalt-mines and smalt-works. Near this also is dug the porcelain earth from which the china manufactory of Meissen is supplied. The serpentine stone, which is turned in the lathe and manu¬ factured into various articles, comes from the quarries at Zoblitz. A branch railway, 1 Germ. m. in length, connects Zwickau with the Leipzig and Ilof Pailway (Pte. 91), at the Werdau station. See Pte. 91 for the remainder of the way to Hof. ROUTE 91. LEIPZIG TO IIOF, BY ALTENBURG AND WERDAU. RAILWAY. 19 Germ. m. = 91 ^ Eng. m. This Railroad was completed 1851 from Leipzig to Ilof (with a branch to Zwickau). It ascends the valley of the Pleisse, crossing that stream. H Kicritsch Stat. 2$ Altenburg Stat. (Lins: Stadt Gotha, good ; H. de Pussie), the capital of the Duchy of Saxe Altenburg on the Pleisse, has 16,000 Inliab. The Palace (Schloss ), on an escarped rock, was often the residence of Charlemagne, who here invested Otto of Wittclsbach with the Duchy of Bavaria. It con¬ sists of an older part dating from the 13tli cent., and a modern portion ; it is worth visiting, and contains an ar¬ moury. Out of one of its apartments the Pobber Knights, Kunz of Kauf- ungen and William von Mosen, stole the young Saxon princes, Ernest and Albert, in 1445. The ducal family reside in the modern part, built in the 18th cent. The Rathhaus in the market-place is a picturesque specimen of Penaissance style, 1564. Von Lindenaus Museum , in the old mansion called Pohlhof , contains some really good pictures of the Italian school. The Gothic Ch. (Stift St. Georg), 1412, containing exquisitely carved stalls, &c., of that date, deserves notice. The Mantel Thurm and Schloss Gate are very ancient. The Damm is the name of an agree¬ able promenade around a sheet of water on the S. side of the town. The inhabitants of the Duchy of Altenburg, by descent Wends, a branch of the Slavonic family, are distin¬ guished by their very peculiar and old-fashioned costumes handed down to them by their ancestors. The petti¬ coat^ of the women, like a Highlander’s 500 ROUTE 91. —PLAUEN. HOF. Sect, VII. kilt, reach no further than the knee; their bodies are enclosed in a cuirass of basket-work, and their heads are sur¬ mounted by a conical cap of portentous dimensions. The people have lost their language and speak German, but retain many old customs as well as their dress. Near Altenburg and Gera the Saxon tin-mines are situated. For the road from Altenburg to Dresden see Bte. 94 a. 2 Gossnitz Junct. Stat. Branch rail¬ way to Chemnitz. If Krimmitschau Stat. If AVerdau Junct. Stat. Beyond this station a branch railway, 1 Germ. m. long, turns off to Zwickau. (Itte. 90.) 1. rises the castle of Schonfels on a wooded height. Neumarkt Stat. Beichenbach Stat. ( Inns : Dass Lamm; Engel) is a thriving manu¬ facturing town; it has 4500 Inhab., who are chiefly employed in the manufac¬ ture of muslin, and in spinning and weaving cotton and wool into kersey¬ meres, merinos, flannel, and “English thread.” A tire in 1833 destroyed a great part of the town. Beyond Beichenbach Stat. the Bail¬ way is carried over the deep Goltsch- thal on a high level bridge 2046 ft. long Q m.) and 278 ft. high, where the valley is deepest. It is composed of 4 tiers of arches, one over the other, but in the centre the stream is crossed by 2 arches, one above the other, 90 ft. span. There are 80 arches in this structure— the grandest of its so)d in Germany. Nearer to Plauen the river and vale of the Elster are bridged by another viaduct of a different and more elegant design, 891 ft. long and 225 ft. high, consisting of a lower tier of 2 arches, 93 ft. span, surmounted by an upper tier of 6 arches. It is chiefly of brick-work. 3 Plauen Stat. (Inns: Deil’s Hotel; Deutsches Haus), a town of 16,000 Inhab., also deriving prosperity from manufactures of linen, cotton, and muslin. It is irregularly built on uneven ground, and is traversed by the stream of the AVhite Elster, which waters a romantic valley, and produces pearls; a royal fishery is established at Oelsnitz for collecting them. A great part of the town has been rebuilt since a fire in 1844. The old Castle (called Badschin), rising high above the town, was in ancient times the residence of the Bailiff, or Voigt (Advocatus regni), from whom the surrounding district got the name of Voigtland ; it is now con¬ verted into public offices. The railway passes over the high land which forms the watershed of the Elster and the Saale. The country is rather pleasing, partly cultivated, and partly covered with fir woods. Mclthcucr Stat. Beuth Stat. About 4 m. beyond this the railway crosses the Bavarian frontier. JlofStat. — Inns: Hirsch, attherly., good; Lamm ; Brandenburger Hof; Buffet. This is the first Bavarian town; it contains 8000 Inhab., and possesses important manufactures of cotton and woollen goods. Its situa¬ tion is so elevated that only the hardier kinds of fruits come to per¬ fection. The country around is bleak and barren; the rock is primary lime¬ stone abounding in fossils; and there arc many iron-mines in the district. The town of Jlof was burnt down for the tenth time recorded in its annals in 1832, and consequently a large part is newly built. A handsome Rathliaus and a church were erected in 1833, but the place has nothing to detain the tra¬ veller. The frontiers of Saxony, Beuss, Prussia (the town of Gefall is Prussian), and Bohemia, are not more than 10 m, distant from Ilof. An extensive smug¬ gling trade is carried on with Bohemia. The Railway connects Hof with Nu¬ remberg and Augsburg, passing Kulm- bach, Lichtenfels, and Bamberg. (See Handbook for South Germany , Bte. 172 .) Schnellpost to Carlsbad. Saxony. ROUTE 91 A.—LEIPZIG TO CARLSBAD. 501 ROUTE 91a. LEIPZIG TO CARLSBAD. Proceed by the Railway described in Route 91, as far as Zwickau, to Schwarzenberg, or to Schnecbcrg Stat. (Inns: Sachsischer Hof, good; Fiirstenhaus), an import¬ ant mining town of 7500 Inhab., chiefly engaged in the mines, and in preparing the ores of silver, cobalt, &c., obtained from them. There is also a consider¬ able manufactory of smalt here. That used in the Dresden china is prepared here from the cobalt. The town was founded 1471, in consequence of the discovery of the mines. The Parish Church is a very fine building, in the latest Gothic, 1516-40. Its altar-piece is the finest work of the elder Cranach , the Crucifixion, and at the back the Last Judgment, with 8 wings or shut¬ ters ; they are interesting as specimens of Protestant art, and the treatment of sacred subjects after the Reformation. Schneeberg snuff, a preparation of herbs found on the mountains of the Erzge¬ birge, taken as common snuff, is said to be good for sore eyes, and to cure head¬ aches. In the neighbourhood are the picturesque castles of Stein, Eisenburg, and AViesenburg. The mining district of the Erzge¬ birge (ore mountains) displays the bounty of nature less on its surface than below ground, where she has stored away, for the use of man, vas# supplies of silver, lead, tin, iron, cobalt, and coal. The soil is poor, and vegetation is partly checked in the vicinity of the mines by the vapours from smelting furnaces; still the country is varied with hills, well wooded and generallv pretty. The road passes through Eiben- stoclc ( Inn , Sachsischerd Ilof), a mining town of 4400 Inhab. ; in and about it are furnaces, foundries, and tin-mines. 3 AVildenthal. (Inn, Post.) Hence to Carlsbad there are two roads. (See the other described in Rte. 94 a.) On the road here described there are no relays of post-horses between AATlden- thal and Carlsbad. Ip Johann - Georgenstadt (vulgarly called Hansgdrgenstadt). — Inns : Rath¬ skeller; Scliiesshaus. A mining town, named after the Elector John George, in whose reign it was built as an asylum for the Protestants driven out of Bo¬ hemia by Ferdinand II., 1654. It has about 3400 Inhab. It stands in a rough and very elevated district, a sort of Saxon Siberia, whose produce lies be¬ neath the barren surface, and consists of silver, tin, lead, iron, cobalt, bismuth, uranium, &c. The men are chiefly miners, the women employ themselves in making bobbinet. ITence to the Bohemian frontier is not more than ^ a mile. 4 Carlsbad , in Handbook for South Germany (Rte. 260). The nearest road from Carlsbad to Dresden is by Joachimsthal, Annabcrg, and Freiberg. South Germany (Rte. 259). ROUTE 92. CASSEL TO COBURG, BY EISENACH AND MEININGEN.'—RAILWAY. The Friedrich - Wilhelms Nordbahn connects Cassel with Eisenach. Trains in 4 h. Eisenach to Coburg, 14§ Germ. m. = 68^ Eng. m. Rail, opened 1862. Gunterslmuscn Junction Stat. Here the railway from Eisenach and Halle meets the Frankfurt and Cassel line. Rte. 70. Picturesque country. Melsungen Stat. The Fulda is crossed. Morschen Stat. Rothenburg Stat. Bebra Stat. on the Fulda; Tunnel. Gerstungen Stat. This town is in the Duchy of Weimar, on the river AYerra, along the valley of which the railway runs, crossing it 3 times, to Eisenach (Rte. 86). Ely. to Meiningen and Coburg—the AVerra-Bahn. Trains in 3T hrs. The yalley of the AYcrra, below 502 ROUTE 92.— ALTENSTEIN". schmalkalden. Sect, VlT. Eisenach, to Kreuzberg and Eschwegc, is picturesque and fertile; the Meissner hill is a fine object. From Eisenach the rly., passing in a tunnel 1670 ft. long under the Wart- burg Hill, runs nearly S., traversing a hilly district, almost covered with the woods of the great Thuringian Forest. Marksulil Stat. Salzungen Stat. {Inns: Kurbans, Siichsischer Hof), a prettily situated watering-place on the shore of a lake, with salt-works. In the village Mohra, the cradle of the family of Luther, a bronze statue of him has been set up. Immelborn Stat. [About 3 m. off lies the Bath of Liebenstein [Inns: Kur- haus; Muller’s H.), charmingly situ¬ ated on the skirts of the Thuringian Forest. The court of Saxe Meiningen passes a portion of the bath season here, in the building called Furstenhaus. The spring furnishes one of the strongest chalybeate waters in Germany, more used for bathing than drinking. Lic- benstein affords the usual amusements of a watering-place— daily music on the walks, balls, concerts, gaming¬ tables, and theatrical performances during the season. A little way behind the baths is the Erdfcill , a deep recess in the mountain side, piled round with masses of rock, somewhat resembling a colossal Cyclopean wall, overgrown at the top with trees, so as to form an agreeable retreat in hot weather. Plea¬ sant walks lead from thence along the heights to the Old Castle of Liebenstein , the cradle of the family of Saxe Mein¬ ingen. It is founded on the rock, and parts of its foundation walls fill up the chasms in the limestone. Its towers command a delightful view over the forests of Thuringia, along the vale of the Werra, and as far as the Rhonge- birge. About 3 m. from Liebenstein is the Duke of Saxe Meiningen’s chateau Altenstein, very finely situated on the brow of a hill, with a grassplat and fountain in front, and surrounded by a beautiful park. A crucifix is planted on a projecting rock, marking, accord¬ ing to tradition, the spot from which St. Boniface , the apostle of Germany, preached Christianity to the pagan in¬ habitants of the country. an hour’s walk from the castle, in the midst of the forest, but not far from the road, stood until 1841, when it was blown down, “ Luther's Buche ” (Luther’s Beech), so called from the tradition that it was beneath it that the bold Reformer, on his return from Worms, after the Papal bull had been uttered against him, was surprised by a party of armed men in masks, who mounted him on their horses and carried him away a prisoner to the castle of Wartburg. This sur¬ prise was concerted by his friend and patron the Elector Frederick the Wise of Saxony. A memorial Pillar at¬ tached to a well called Luthersbrunnen records the event of the capture, and the place where it occurred.] At Gliicksbrunn, a village half way between Liebenstein and Altenstein, is one of the most remarkable of the Ca¬ verns in which the limestone (dolomite) of this district abounds. Wernshausen Stat. [About 3 m. off lies Schmalkalden. This ancient and unaltered town, of 5400 Inhab., still preserves its double row of antique ramparts, and its fosse. Its houses are mostly built of wood, with timber framework, and, like those of Chester and Shrewsbury, have a highly picturesque character. Most of its inhabitants are smiths, and follow their trade in shops on the ground floor. In the market-place stand the Gothic Church and the two chief Inns , Adler and Krone; the latter comfortable: in it the famous Protestant League of Schmalkalden was signed, 1531. In the Sannersche Haus, the articles of the League were drawn up by Luther, Me- lanchthon, Agricola, and other divines. On a height above the town rises the old Electoral castle, Wilhelmsburg. The valley in which Schmalkalden stands may be regarded as one great smithy; its inhabitants are chiefly workmen in metal, cutlers, makers of gimlets, &c. The iron ore is supplied from numerous mines in the vicinity. Below the town are extensive salt-works.] The pretty valley of the Werra di¬ vides 2 of the boldest mountain ridges 503 ROUTE 92. —MEIHIHGEU. COBURG. Saxony, in central Germany—the Thiiringerwald and the Hohe Bhon. The land is fer¬ tile, and much tobacco is cultivated. Wasungen Stat. "VValldorf Stat. rt. On a height above the Werra stands the modern ducal castle, Schloss Landsberg , ornamented with frescoes and glass paintings by Munich artists, in good taste. It commands beautiful views. Meiningen Stat. {Inns Sachsischer Hof; Hirsch), a town of 6000 Inhab., built in the form of a harp, on the rt. bank of the Werra, encircled by wooded hills. It is the capital of the Duchy of Saxe Meiningen, and residence of the Duke. The principal building is the Palace , containing various collections of art, paintings of the Italian schools, and by modern artists, and natural history. There are an agreeable Park and gar¬ dens attached to it, and within these a modern Gothic Chapel with painted glass from Munich. The Jews form an important quota of the community, and have built a handsome new quarter. The Church is ancient, but defaced by pews and galleries. Behind the altar are some monuments of knights, and in the sacristy some specimens of chinch plate, vestments, &c. [A road strikes off from Meiningen to Ivissingen, by Mellrichstadt (2^ G. m.), through part of the forest, to Neustadt (2 G. m.), an old walled town on the Franconian Saal, overhung by the in¬ teresting and extensive remains of the castle of Salzburg. Here is a neat clean Inn. Miinnerstadt (1 G. m.) to Kissin- gen (1^ G. m.). See Handbook for South Germany .] 2^ Themar Stat. Inn , Post. 1^ Hildburghausen Stat. Inns : H. d’Angleterre, comfortable; Sachsisches Ilaus, fair. The Palace was, down to 1826, the residence of the Dukes of Saxe Hildburghausen, until the ex¬ tinction of the line of Gotha, when they removed to Altenburg, and Hild¬ burghausen was united to Meinin¬ gen. The town contains about 4000 Inhab., many Jews. It is a lifeless place. The older quarter is of consi¬ derable antiquity. [9 m. ~W. is Pomhild , in whose Church are remarkable monuments of the Counts of Henncberg, cast in bronze in 1520, by Peter Vischer and his sons.] Eisfeld Stat., famed for beer. 2 -^ Coburg Junct. Stat. Inns : Hotel Leuthauser, very good; Goldner Lowe ; Griiner Baum (Poste). This is one of the residence towns of the Duke of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha, the other being Gotha. Pop. about 11,000. It is re¬ markable for its clean and opulent- looking- houses. In the market-place are some picturesque old houses, and a statue of the late Prince Consort, modelled by Theed, cast at Nuremberg, and erected to his memory in the presence of the widowed Queen Vic¬ toria, 1865. The Palace called Ehrenburg , the town residence of the Duke, built 1549, is a Gothic edifice, forming 3 sides of a quadrangle, with a turreted entrance. It contains portraits of the Coburg family, some modern paint¬ ings, and a collection of Engravings , which are not shown, and has some handsome apartments. There are some fine specimens of marqueterie in the doors, and Coburg is to this day cele¬ brated for that manufacture. The Moritz-Kirchc contains several ducal monuments—bronze reliefs of the 16th and 17th centuries. The Park and Pleasure-grounds are very pleasing. The Theatre belongs to the Duke, and is extremely well conducted. In the Arsenal (Zeughaus ) there is some fine armour and arms of all ages, and some Turkish trophies, won by the Prince of Coburg, Austrian field-marshal. The ancient *Castle of the Dukes of Coburg, situated on a commanding- eminence, 523 ft. above the town, half an hour’s ascent, is well worth seeing. - The views from it extend over the Thiiringerwald as far as the Franconian Switzerland. It has been repaired, decorated with modern frescoes, and in part converted into a Museum for art and antiquities ; but some of the chambers remain in their original con¬ dition, especially those occupied by Luther (1530), who passed 3 months here in retirement, during the Diet of 504 Sect. VII. ROUTE 93. —GOTTINGEN TO GOTHA. Augsburg, and finished hero his trans¬ lation of the Prophets and Psalms, and composed the famous hymn ‘ Eine feste Burg est unser Gott.’ The bed¬ stead he slept upon during his conceal¬ ment here, and the pulpit from which he preached in the old Chapel , are shown. The collections arc shown to the public, fee to the Castellan 1 fl. for a party. They include paintings, carvings in wood, portraits of the Reformers, cannon and firearms of all ages. The “ horn room,” is panelled with oak inlaid with woods of different kinds, and enclosing mosaic pictures. Another room contains portraits of persons en¬ gaged in the Seven Years’ War. There is much valuable armour hero. The Castle was besieged in vain by Wal¬ lenstein in the Thirty Years’ War (1632). Outside the Avails may still bo seen the remains of the chains to Avhich a traitor, who attempted to betray the place, was hung in full view of the besieging army. Among the many country-houses be¬ longing to the Duke, the hunting-seats of Rosenau , 4 m. N. of Coburg, and Kallenberg , 2 m., most deserve notice for the elegant style in which they are fitted up, and the beauty of their situation. The parks and forests around them abound in game of every description. An avenue 2 m. long leads to Rosenau, a Gothic manor - house gabled and battlemented, on a wooded hill commanding wide forest views. Here the great and good Prince Albert Avas bom 1819, and here Queen Vic¬ toria has resided at various times. Branch Rly. to Sonnenberg, Bte. 94. The Railway is continued from Co¬ burg to the Lichtenfels St at. on the Hof and Nuremberg railway (9 m.), by Niederfullbach Stat. Ebendorf Stat. Lichtenfels Junct. Stat. (Rte. 93), in the A r alley of the Main. Handbook for South Germany , Rte. 172. ROUTE 93. GOTTINGEN TO GOTHA, COBURG, AND BAMBERG ; THE TIIURINGIAN FOREST : •— BATHS OF LIEBENSTEIN, AND SCHMALKALDEN. 32 Germ. m. = 151'Eng. m., a mac-, adamised road. Schnellpost daily. About a mile from Heiligcnstadt the Prussian frontier is crossed. 3'| Heiligcnstadt. — Inns: Preus- sischcr Hof; Deutsches Ilaus. (See Rte. 67.) This Avas formerly capital of the district called Eichsfeld. 2 Dingclstadt. 2~ Muhlhausen (Inns : ScliAvan ; Konig von Preussen), an ancient walled town of 12,000 Inhab., plea¬ santly situated in the midst of a A r ery fertile country on the Unstrut. It was anciently a free city of the empire. The Marienkirche in the Oberstadt is the finest church, in pure and bold Gothic of the 14th cent. Its nave has 5 aisles. Miinzcr, the fanatic preach¬ er, Avho excited the Thuringian peasants to revolt in 1524-25, made Miihlliausen his head-quarters, and col¬ lected around him a misguided host of 30,000 men, expelling the legitimate magistrates. His undisciplined bands, hoAvever, were soon dispersed in the battle of Frankenhausen; he himself was brought hither a prisoner, and, after being tortured, Avas publicly executed. 2 ^ Langensalza (Inns: Mohr; Sonne), an industrious manufacturing toAvn, with a pop. of 7000. About 2 m. out of the toAvn is a saline sulphureous spring of some re¬ putation, supplying Baths , much re¬ sorted to in summer. 2J Gotiia.— In Rte. 86. Eilwagen daily in 10 lirs.; hilly road. 2 Ohrdruf (Inn, Anker or Post), an old and industrious toAvn, 4500 Inhab., seat of the family of Ilohenlohc- Obergleiclicn. The road iioav begins to ascend the highest ridge of the Thuringian mountains, by easy tra- A"erses, admirably constructed. 2 Oberhoff, a hamlet of 46 Avoodcn RQtfTE 04. —LEIPZIG TO COBURG. Saxony* «/ £ •j 05 houses occupied by wood-cutters, with post-house and Inn, close to the Duke’s Hunting Lodge. The forest here may almost he called primaeval; the pines often attain the height of 280 ft. It yields a yearly revenue of 100,000/. in building-timber alone. Game of every description abounds; the red deer are of an enormous size; and that elsewhere rare bird the bustard occurs here in great numbers. Between 700 and 800 stags are killed in a year ; and 20 or 30 of these noble animals may be seen from the road in passing in the evening. The Duke of Saxe Coburg is allowed to have the finest chasse in Germany. At the little town of Zella a road strikes off on the rt. by Benhausen (2 G. m.) to Mciningen (2^ G. m.). See Bte. 92. Soon after leaving Oberhoff the road attains its highest elevation. An obelisk, at the summit-level, commemorates its construction. The view here is truly magnificent, over a great extent of this noble forest, the dark abyss of its valleys, and its mountains clad with pines, except their often craggy sum¬ mits. From this point we descend to 2 Suhl ( Inns: Deutsches Ilaus,best; Krone), the principal town of the Prus¬ sian county of Henneberg, prettily situated in the valley of the Lauter, at the base of the Domberg, a cliff of which, the Ottilienstein, a grand rock of por¬ phyry, appears to overhang the town, and commands a fine view. Pop. 7118, chiefly weavers of linen or woollen, or gunsmiths. Suhl has long been cele¬ brated for its fire-arms , and for centuries was the only manufactory of them in Germany. 2 Schleusingen.— Inn. Griiner Baum. Bte. 94 b. HUdbnrghausen. l Rai i wa y. « 1 a, Bodaeh. fin Bte 92 2£ Coburg Stat. J in 1U0 - ’ The Bailway to Bamberg and Hof by Leipzig is an important line of com¬ munication between N. and S. Ger¬ many ; and there is much traffic of merchandise upon it. It enters the territory of Bavaria about half way between Coburg and 2 Lichtenfels Junct. Stat. on the Railroad from Leipzig to Nuremberg , by [N. G.J Bamberg {Inns: Krone, dear and dirty; Kreutz),—a town of 2000 Inhab., on the Main, carrying on some trade in timber floated down the river. Staffelstein Stat., a village pos¬ sessing a celebrated pilgrimage Church of the Vierzehn Ileiligen , under the Staffelberg, a remarkable table hill, which hems in the river on the 1., while on the rt. rises a height, crowned by the suppressed convent of Banz, now residence of Prince Max, brother of the King of Bavaria. The Main, on issuing from this opening in the hills, flows past the small town of Zapfendorf Stat., to Bamberg Stat.—in Handbook of South Germany. BOUTE 94. LEIPZIG TO COBURG, BY JENA, RUDOL- STAPT, SONNEBERG, PAULINZELLE, ETC. 25f Germ. m. = 120^ Eng. m. Eil- wagen daily. Gj Naumburg, in Bte. 86. 2 Hamburg, on the Saale. It was through the defile in the rear of the castle of Dornburg that the French marched to outflank the Prussians at the battle of Jena, 1806. Bad road. Itj Jena , in Bte. 94 a. The road continues to follow the pretty valley of the Saale ascending it along the 1. bank of that river. 2 Kahla {Inns: Stern; Lowe), a town of 1200 Inhab. On the opposite bank of the Saale stands the castle of Leuchtenburg , now a prison. The next object worth mentioning is the ruined castle Orlamunde , on a hill beneath which the road passes. 3 Budolstadt— Inns: Bitter; Lowe; Adler. Outside the town, in a beau¬ tiful situation, is the Bathhouse ; good, plain accommodation, very mo¬ derate— Baths of A/r-leaf (Fichten- nadelbad),—the chief town of the prin¬ cipality of Schwarzburg-Budolstadt. Pop. 4000. A beautiful country, sandy soil; charming rides and walks; good roads and carriages. On the summit of an eminence nearly 200 ft. above the river stands the residence of the prince, Z 506 ROUTE 94. —SAALFELD. SONNEBERG. Sect. VII. the Castle of Ileidehsburg, containing some pictures and a library. The Lud- wigsburg in the town contains a cabinet of natural history, rich in shells. Oppo¬ site Volksstadt a bust of Schiller has been set up to commemorate the poet’s residence here in 1788. At Schwarza (Inn, Bremer Hof.), 3 m. above Rudolstadt, the river Schwarza joins the Saale. 5 m. from Itudolstadt, above the small town of Blankenburg (Inn, Schwazburger Hof or Chrysopras, ^ m. out of the town, is best), rise the picturesque ruins of the castle of Greif- enstein , birthplace of the unfortunate JEmpr. Gunther of Schwarzburg. 5 m. farther up this winding valley, one of the most beaut iful in Thuringia, on the summit of a bold precipitous rock, stands the Castle of Schwarzburg. The greater part of the building is modern, erected after a conflagration, 172G. It presents little worth seeing except the Kaiser Saal, a relic still preserved of the old castle. It contains portraits of Homan emperors, from Julius Caesar to Charles IV., miserable daubs, and some ancient armour, including a suit attri¬ buted to the Empr. Gunther. Inn, Weisser Hirsch, near Schwarzburg. Travellers should ascend the Tripstein, 1 ^ m. from the castle, for the sake of the unrivalled view. There is a cross road from Blankenburg to the interest¬ ing ruins of the Abbey of Paulinzelle , 9 m. distant. It was founded, 1105, by Pauline, daughter of the cupbearer of the Empr. Henry IY. It is finely situated in the depths of a forest. The church is a very interesting monument of the plain Byzantine or Bomanesque style ; date, the close of the 11 th cent.; the E. end is gone. Near the abbey are the monks’ fish-ponds, and a good Inn. 1 Saalfeld. Inns ; Hirsch, best ; Goldener Anker, one of the oldest inns in Germany—the Empr. Charles Y. put up here, along with his prisoner the Elector John Frederick, June 27, 1547. Saalfeld is a very ancient walled town, in the midst of the Thuringian forest, and contains 4800 Inhab. The Rathhaus in the market-place is a vene¬ rable Gothic edifice. The Gothic Ch. of St, John vas built 1212, out of funds produced by the neighbouring gold¬ mines of Reichmannsdorf; the painted glass, and a colossal wooden statue of St. John in the interior, deserve no¬ tice. Near the town wall, at the side of the Saale, are the ruins of the Sor- benburg , a fort dating from the 8th cent., built, according to tradition, to defend the frontier from inroads of the Slavonic barbarians, the Sorbic-Vends. The old Ducal Castle, also within the town, is now the Mint. In the suburb outside the walls is the more modern Chateau or Palace of the Dukes of the extinct line of Saxe*- Saalfeld, with fine gardens attached to it. The road now quits the banks of the Saale, and begins to ascend the central ridge of the Thuringerwald. The battle of Jena, so fatal to Prussia, began near Saalfeld. A cast-iron monu¬ ment has been erected to Prince Lewis of Prussia on the spot where he fell. 2 t | Grafenthal (Inns: Post; Weisses Ross). Near this you have a fine view of Wespenstein, an old castle of the Pappenheims, in ruins. otj Sonneberg (Inns : Post; Bar). This town, of 3200 Inhab., is chiefly remarkable for the peculiar manu¬ facture of toys, dolls, boxes of va¬ rious kinds, including pill-boxes, boot-jacks, chess-boards, and the end¬ less variety of articles for the amuse¬ ment of children which fill the toy¬ shops of every quarter of the globe, and are commonly called Dutch toys. There are several manufactories of papier mache, to make dolls’ heads, and of pipe-heads; and one or two mills for grinding boys’ marbles. Hones for sharpening knives are prepared hero out of a species of slate ; and there is also a quarry producing slate-pencils in the neighbourhood.. Altogether the trade in toys is supposed to produce 400,000 fl. yearly. The Duke of Mein- ingen has established a School of Design for the improvement of the workpeople. Adolph Fleischman is the chief manu¬ facturer. Here is a pretty modern Gothic Church built from Ilcideloff’s designs ; the vaulted roof is of wood. A branch Railway is made to Coburg. 2 Neustadt Stat. Inn, Ilalbe Mond. Coburg Junct, Stat, (In Rte, 92.) Saxony. ROUTE 94 A.—WETMAR TO CARLSBAD. 507 ROUTE 94 a. WEIMAR TO CARLSBAD, BY JENA, ALTENBURG, AND GERA. Posting, 1st day to Altenburg, 68 Eng. m. in 11 h.; 2nd day to Carlsbad, 76f Eng. m., in 13^ h. This is a good post-road through beautiful and richly cultivated country, and may afford a variation of the journey to those acquainted with the usual route by Leipzig. The first part of the road traverses some singularly bare-looking ravines, one of which leads down into the broad valley in which stands 1 ^ Jena {Inns: Bar; Sonne), a dull, dingy, antiquated town, in a hollow sur¬ rounded by naked hills, having nothing- worth notice but its University , founded 1550 by the Elector John Frederick of Saxony, of whom there is a bronze statue by Drake. It numbers at present about 500 students. “Groups of them, in falling collars not particularly clean, and flowing hair not remarkably glossy, may be seen swaggering about with foils, masks, and cudgels.” L. R. G .— The University Museum is valuable to students. The Garden of the Observatory was Schiller’s favourite resort while Pro¬ fessor of History, between 17 89 and 1799, and he composed in it his ‘Wallenstein.’ An old tower ( Fuchsthurm ) on the Haus- berg,behind Jena, commands a fine view. The road, somewhat narrow and very serpentine, but not bad, takes its course among clear streams and liappy-looking villages, and afterwards through forests of pine, to 1 3 Kloster Launitz, a clean village inn. There is a new and better road from Jena to 3 Eisenberg. 2 ^ Gera {Inn, Reussischcr Hof, very ! good), a picturesque, clean, and thriving modern town, of 11,000 Inhab., on the Elster, belonging to tne sovereign princes of Reuss-Sclileitz andEbersdorf. The Castle of the Prince of R, Ebers- dorf, backed by hanging woods, rises over against the town, and adds much j to its picturesque appearance. Rail to Weissenfels and Leipzig. Itoneberg, a small modern toAvn and watering-place, is passed, and the road traverses a country not particularly in¬ teresting, abounding in mines. 1 ^ Sehmollen. Smelting-house. 2 Altenburg. — Inn, Stadt Gotha; good. (Sec Rte. 91.) A railroad runs hence to Leipzig, and by Zwickau (Rte. 91) to Schnee- berg. Beyond this the road enters the Erzgebirge. 3 Sohneeberg Stat. (Rte. 91 a). 3 Wildenthal {Inn, Post), a neat vil¬ lage at the foot of the Auersbcrg, where a good deal of lace is made and sold. The Bohemian (Austrian) Custom¬ house and Passport-office (§ 86) is at Hirschenstand. After following for a long way a wooded gorge, you at length emerge from the hills a little beyond 2 ^ Neudeck {Inn, Stadtischer Gast- hof). Here you find yourself in the undulating a 7 alley of the Eger. 2~ Carlsbadflnn , Prinz vonPreussen), in Handbook for South Germany. There is a road from Altenburg to Dresden by Rochlitz, 3^. Waldheim, 21 . Nossen, 3. Wilsdruff, 2§. Dres¬ den, 2|. Or by way of Freiberg to Penig, 2-A Chemnitz, 3; and thence as in Rte. 90. ROUTE 94 b. ERFURT TO COBURG. 15 Germ m. = 69 Eng. m. A good road, but not furnished Avith post-horses, connects Erfurt Avitli Schleusingen on the road from Gotha to Coburg. The country is very pretty from Erfurt to Z 2 508 ROUTE 94 B.—ERFURT TO COBURG. Sect. VII. 2 ^ Arnstadt.— Inns: Die Henne ; Der Greif. 5300 Inhab. The Lieb- frauenkirche, a capital specimen of Ger¬ man Gothic of the 12th and 13th cent., displays peculiar sculpture on its ex¬ terior, and some interesting monu¬ ments within. The finest is that of Giinther v. Schwarzburg and his wife, 1368. The Schloss, formerly the resi¬ dence of the Schwarzburg family, des¬ cended, on the failure of that line, to the Sondershausen family. Of the old Schloss there only remain a tower, and some walls of 1554. [A road 4| Germ. m. in length has been opened between Arnstadt and Budolstadt through a beautiful coun¬ try.] After leaving Arnstadt the road runs through a narrow valley amidst beechwood, and then rises, passing through the vale of the Gera, by Plaue, with the stately ruins of Ehrenburg Castle, and by Martinsrode (huge oak- tree) to 2 4 Ilmenau {Inn, Lowe). This town of 2700 Inhah. belongs to Weimar. Here are mines of manganese and iron. Near it is Elgersburg, romantically situated, and an establishment for the cold-water cure. The road after leaving Ilmenau ascends for 2 m. to a height of 2500 ft., and then descends with many windings through a forest be¬ longing to the King of Prussia to 4 Schleusingen {Inn, Grtiner Baum, 3000 Inhab.), a town formerly belong¬ ing to the Counts of Henneberg, now to Prussia. The old castle of Bertholds- burg, prettily situated on a hill, has been repaired by the King of Prussia. In a chapel built 1723, adjoining the Stadtkirche , are the tombs of the Counts of Henneberg; and in the neighbourhood a suppressed Prannon- strant Abbey, an interesting monument of German architecture of the 12th cent. If Hildburghausen. If Bodach. 24 Coburg. i Bailway. Bte. 92. ( 509 ) SECTION VIII. NASSAU. — FRANKFURT. — HESSE-DARMSTADT. — RHENISH BAVARIA. — BADEN. — THE RHINE FROM MAYENCE TO STRASBURG. Preliminary Information.— 54. Money. — 55. Posting. ROUTE PAGE 95 . The Baths and Brunnen of Nassau. Coblenz to Frank- furt-on-the-Main , by Ems , Schwalbach , Schlangenbad , and Wiesbaden . . .511 96. Giessen to Coblenz, by Wcil- burg, Limburg , and Enis— Rail. .... 529 97. The Taunus Mountains— "Wiesbaden to Frankfurt, by Eppstein, Konigstein , and Homburg . . .531 98. Bingen to Mayence, by Ln- gelheim — Rail. . . . 534 99. MayencetoFrankfurt— Rail. 534 99a. Mayence to Darmstadt and Asckaffenburg —Railway . 535 100. Bingen to Kreuznach and Saar- briick — Nabe— Railway . 535 1 00a . Saarbriicken to Treves (Saar- louis ). .... 538 101. Mayence to Metz, by Kaisers¬ lautern, Homburg (Zwei- briicken), Saarbriick, and Forbacb— Rail. . . 539 102 . The Rhine (E). Mayence to Strasburg, by Worms,Mann¬ heim, and Spires — Rail. . 540 ROUTE PAGE 103. Mannheim (Ludwigskafen) to Metz and Paris, by Ilom- burg, Kaiserslautern, Saar- briicken, and Forbacb—- Railway of the Palati¬ nate .... 549 104. Mannheim to Strasburg, by Neustadt and Landau — Railway. Excursions to Diirkheim , Annweiler , and Trifels . . ... 549 105. Frankfurt to Basle, by Darm¬ stadt , the Bergstrasse and Odcnwald , Heidelberg , Carls - ruhe, and Freiburg — Rail¬ way .... 552 106. Carlsruhe (Oos) to Baden- Baden —Branch Railway . 570 107. Baden to Strasburg — Rail. . 576 108. Offenburg to Schaff hausen and Constance , by the Kinzig- thal and Donaueschingcn . 580 109. Freiburg in Breisgau to Schaffhausen, by the Hol- lenthal .... 584 110. Heidelberg to Wurzburg, by Mosbach .... 586 § 54. MONEY. In Nassau, Baden, Darmstadt, Frankfurt, &c., accounts are kept in Florins or Gulden. 1 Florin (= Is. 8 c?.), contains 60 kreutzers. 3 kr. = lc?. Gold Coins (rare). FI. hr. Caroline (or French Louis d’Or) . . . = 11 6 to 12 . Ducat.= 5 24 to 36. The States of Southern and Western Germany, including Bavaria, Wurtem- berg, Baden, Hesse, and Frankfurt, haye recently combined to issue a uniform coinage. (See § 32.) 510 55. rosi'iNG. Sect. VIII. New Silver Coinage. Vereins Thaler — 3 florins 30 kr. = 2 Prussian dollars. hr. Florin , , = 60 = Is. 8 c?. = 2 Fr. francs 15 cents. •5 Florin . . = 30 = 10 c?. i Florin . . = 15 = 5c?. Pieces of 6 kr., 3 kr. or groschen, and 1 kr. Old Silver Coins. Crown, Kronthaler, or Brabant FI. kr. Thaler >. . . . = 2 42 = 4s. 1-^c?. Pieces of two and one florin . = 3s. 4cl. and Is. 8c?. Zwanziger . . . . = 0 24 = 0 s. 8 c?. (N.B. 2 ^ zwanzigers make 1 florin.) Zwanziger . . . . = 0 12 = 0 s. 4c?. £ Zwanziger . . . . = 0 6 = 0 s. 2 c?. Formerly the florin was an imaginary coin, and did not exist as a piece of money. The name zwanziger properly applies to Austria alone, where this coin goes for 20 kreutzers, and bears upon it the figure 20 , the ^ zwanziger or zehner passes for 10, and the £ for 5 kreutzers ; while in Bavaria and Wurtemberg the same coins pass respectively for 24, 12, and 6 kr. Value of foreign coins in florins and kreutzers :—• FI. hr. French Louis d’or =11 6 to 12 Napoleon = 9 30 to 20 English Sovereign = 11 45 to 36 Kron or Brab. Thaler = 120 Conventions Thaler = 2 24 FI. hr. Prussian Frederic d’or = 9 48 Thaler = 1 45 French 5-franc piece = 2 20 1 -franc = 0 28 Brabant dollars (originally struck by the Emperor of Austria in the Low Countries) are a very common coin, current without loss throughout S. Ger¬ many. The table (A) at the beginning of this volume for reducing them into florins and kreutzers may be found useful. § 55. POSTING. Tariff per post of 2 Germ. m. Frankfurt-A. -J\T. Nassau Darmstadt Each Horse. Postilion. FI. hr. 2 3 , — — < 1 30 40 kr. 50 kr. 1 15 40 50 1 30 45 55 4 horses. Tfl. 1 1 5 kr. The postmaster in Mayence is authorised to charge 52^ kr. for each horse per post. Baden . . 1 30 36 45 1 10 The charges for horses vary from time to time with the price of forage. The charge for barriers ceases on entering this duchy. The usual rate of travelling is a post in 1 J to 1 ^ h. when the road is not very hilly. The distances to all the adjoining post stations are hung up in front of every post- house. Nassau. route 95.-— the brunnen of Nassau, ems. 511 Travellers usually pay tlie postilion 1 fl. for 2 horses per post, which, is quite enough. On some roads 1 fl. 12 kr. (3 zwanzigers) is given, which is high pay. KB. An extra charge of 30 kr. per' post is made by the postmaster when a postboy, driving only 2 horses, is obliged to ride, and camiot sit on the box of the carriage. A light open carriage, holding 4 without heavy baggage, may be drawn by 2 horses : a heavy trunk counts as one person. A postchaise or caleche costs from 50 kr. to 1 fl. a post. The Wagcmneister, when entitled to be paid separately, usually receives 12 kr., and 12 more when he greases the wheels. Charges at Inns :—Booms on 1st floor, 1 fl. to 1 fl. 12 kr. ; 2nd or 3rd floor, 36 kr. ; table-d’hote, 1 fl. 12 kr.; 73 bottle of wine, 30 kr. ; breakfast (coffee or tea, with bread and butter), 20 kr. Beds, 1 1- florin. ROUTE 95. THE BATHS AND BRUNNEN OP NASSAU. COBLENZ TO FRANKFURT-ON-THE- MAIN, BY EMS, SCHWALBACH, SCIILAN- GENBAD, AND WIESBADEN. 14 Germ. m. = 64 Eng. m. Railway, Lahnstcin to Ems, along the 1 . bank of the Lahn—finished 1858— and thence to Nassau and Limburg. N.B.—Since the Bly. up the rt. bank of the Rhine was opened, it affords the readiest access to Schlangenbad, Schwalbacli (by Eltvillo), and Wies¬ baden. The Railroad from Coblenz to Ems crosses the Rhine by a permanent bridge a little above the town, and fol¬ lows the rt. bank of the Rhine, passing orchards and vineyards, to Nieder- Lahnstein (Rte. 38), at the mouth of the Lahn; and thence up its rt. bank through the village of Nievern, Ahl, and the iron-works of Hohenrain. The distance is nearly 12 m., a most agree¬ able drive of 2 hrs. through varied and beautiful scenery, There is a footpath over the hills by Arzlieim and Eachbach, a walk of 2 hrs. 2 Ems Stat., 1. bank r of Lahn.— Inns and lodging-houses : —*11. d’Angleterre, at the W. end of Ems, comfortable for families;—II. do Russie, good, near the centre of the town ;—Darmstadter Hof (Post), near the Old Kurhaus. On * the l. hank of the Lahn , near the Kursaal: Vier Jalireszeiten ;—EuropaischerHof; —IP. Gutemberg, in a pleasant garden, good and quiet;—Baierischerllof, in the Obere Alice, remote from the bustle, and recommended as alodging-house. Tahles- cTliote at 1 in all the hotels, and in the Kurhaus, 1 fl. 24 kr.; also at 4 or 5 p.m., chiefly for the English, 1 fl. 45 kr.— Lodging-houses : Britannia, on the 1. bank of the Lahn, quiet ;— Pariser Hof;—Prince of Wales ;—Dio Panorama, good, on the S. side of the river, and therefore preferable in hot weather ;—the Burg Nassau, next door to the II. d’Angleterrc. The houses on the 1. bank of the Lahn are cheaper and quieter than those on the rt. The watering-place (§ 41) Ems is very prettily situated on the banks of 512 ROUTE 95. —EMS. KURSAAL. SPRINGS. Sect. VIII. the Lahu, the older part hemmed in be¬ tween it and the cliffs of the Baderlei, and a more modern and airy quarter Spreading out over the open ground on the 1. bank. It is neither town nor vil¬ lage, hut a collection of lodging-houses with the Kurhaus in the midst. In front of them runs the high road, and between it and the river a long narrow strip of garden, forming a sort of ter¬ race by the river-side, and serving as a promenade for the guests. A hand plays here during the season from 7 to 8^ A.M., and from 6 to 8 P.M., when the guests digest their potations of spa- water. Six o’clock in the afternoon is the hour at which Eras appears in full glory: all the world is then abroad, the promenade is crowded with visitors of all nations, and some of the highest rank, in the gayest costume. Those who arc ambitious to extend their walks beyond this, unless they confine them¬ selves to the borders of the beautiful Lahn, must begin immediately to as¬ cend, so near at hand are the hills. Close to the little bridge of boats, and along both sides of the river, squadrons of donkeys are posted with their drivers. By their assistance every visitor, male or female, has the means of scaling the wooded and vine-clad heights, and of exploring the really beautiful scenery with which the neigh¬ bourhood abounds. Every donkey is numbered; and on fine afternoons the asses of reputation, strength, and beauty, being in great request, are usually engaged beforehand. Many persons, therefore, retain a particular number, which they know to be good, for the period of their stay at the baths. The hire of a donkey is 40 kr. an hour ; but it is better to engage the animal for the excursion according to the terms of a printed tariff , which fixes the charges for all the usual excursions around Ems, whether made on horses or asses, or in carriages. Ems is hot in summer, from being so shut in with hills; but the woods around afford shade, and in a quarter of an hour the tops of the hills may he scaled, whence the rambler may en¬ joy the purest breezes and the most* expanded views ever the Rheinland. The rich woods which cover the sides of the vale of the Lahn, and the ver¬ dant pastimes which form its banks, give Ems a more pleasing aspect than Schwalbach, which is surrounded by naked round-backed hills, with few trees upon them. The principal building is the very handsome Kursaal , built by the Grand Duke 1839, at the side of the Lahn : it contains a cafe; gambling-rooms, pro¬ vided with hazard-tables, open from 11 A.M. to 11 p.m.; and a ball-room, supported on marble columns, in which weekly balls are given. It is open at all times, gratuitously to strangers. The interior, though gorgeous, is in very bad taste. Immediately under the Old Kur¬ haus rise 2 of the principal Springs , the waters of which are used for drink¬ ing, and likewise supply the baths. The ground-floor of the building is a large vaulted gloomy hall, which serves at the same time as pump-room and place of promenade for the guests in wet weather. The chief source is the Kesselbrunnen (11G° Fahr.),and within a space railed off around it stand young girls (Brunnen Madchcn) to disti'ibuto the water to the drinkers, giving to each one his or her own peculiar glass. An elegant open hall connects this building with the Kursaal. During the season it is occupied by itinerant shopkeepers from all parts of the Con¬ tinent, who here display their wares in a sort of bazaar. There are hardly any other shops in the place. In the lower story of the Kurhaus are Baths —prices : 1 fl. to 1 fl. 30 kr. for the better class. Douche Baths (i. e. a stream of water descending from a height upon some part of the body), 48 kr. Tickets for a certain number of baths are purchased beforehand from the Badmeister, who fixes the hour for taking them, which should be punctually kept, or the bather may lose his turn. N.B. The most comfortable baths are those in the Neue Badhaus on the 1. bank of the Lahn, erected 1854, connected with the walks on the other side by a coyercd Suspension Bridge. The building forms 2 quadrangles, the Nassau. ROUTE 95.— EMS. BATHS. EXCURSIONS. 513 courts being gardens. The water is pumped up by steam from 2 mineral springs rising within the building. There are other baths in the Vier Thiirme. The waters of Ems were known as early as the time of the Homans, who called the place Embcisis. They are warm, and are furnished by 2 springs, haying respectively a temperature of 23° and 37° Reaumur. They are agreeable to the palate and easy of digestion. The springs rise out of the grauwacke rock, which forms the sub¬ stratum of the surrounding hill. There are many other springs here besides those which supply the baths ; some on the 1. bank of the Lahn, and others rising up in the middle of the Lahn itself, which at these places is used as a horsc-batli. Many jets of gas also emanate out of the bed of the stream ; and one of them is so copious in car¬ bonic vapours as to destroy life in animals held over it, in the same man¬ ner as the Grotto del Cane in Italy. The waters are taken in the morning before breakfast, and after dinner. From 3 to 6 goblets in the early part of the day, and 1 or 2 in the afternoon, are the usual allowance. Nearly everybody, high or low, dines here at the table-d’hotc; the dinner hour is 1 o’clock; after which the com¬ pany adjourn and take coffee on the walks, listening to the music, or amus¬ ing themselves in walking or riding. There is music for 1 h. morning and evening—the time varies according to the season. Ems seems essentially a ladies’ watering-place: it is much frequented by the fair sex, and its waters are considered peculiarly efficacious in the complaints of females. It is on the whole a quiet place, but dear. The public gaming-tables are not much frequented. Another of the amusements which this place affords is the sport of roe¬ buck-shooting in the Duke’s pre¬ serves ; it is easy to purchase a per¬ mission from parties who rent a portion of them. The society at Ems is usually more select than that at Schwalbach, Wies¬ baden, or Baden-Iladen. The season begins in May, and is generally over by the middle of September. The number of visitors in the season a- mounts to 5000: in 1823 there were only 1200. Ems lias 3000 permanent Inhab. Physicians. —Dr. Soest, who speaks English, comes over from Coblenz to Ems 2 days in every week to see pa¬ tients. (§ 41.) Dr Vogler, who also speaks English, and Dr. Busch, reside here. The English Ch. Service on Sunday mornings in the English Church, 1. bank of the Lahn. The walks over and among the hills near Ems, for instance, up the Bd- derlci , to the Schweitzer Ilaus (a plea¬ sant Cafe', commanding fine views), to the Forsthaus , to the Lindenbach Valley by the silver-smelting furnace, to the ruined castle of Sporkenburg , to Balduin- stein, and in general up and down the Lahn, arc very agreeable, and afford many unrivalled prospects. For short walks, you may choose the Marien- Weg, on the further side of the Lahn or the Henrietten-Weg, and Mooshut overlooking Ems, whence there is a fine view. Kcmmcnau is ■ a fine point of view at the top of the mountain behind Ems. The Roman rampart called Pfahlgraben (see Index) passes along the crest of the hills above Kemmenau, and, descending into the valley of the Lahn, crosses that river near Ems, and pro¬ ceeds towards Hcinrichshof. Braubach, and the Castle of Clarks¬ burg, on the Rhine, distant about 7 m., will form a pleasant day’s excursion. (See Rtc. 38.) The camage-road runs past the Forsthaus; a footpath at the back of Heinrichsbad leads through the wood to Becheln. Braubach is also accessible by the Lahn Railway. By means of the same Lahn Valley Railway, visits may bo made to the z 3 514 ROUTE 95. —NASSAU. Sect. VIII. castles of Nassau and Stein , 6 m.Jhigher up the Lahn valley, on the high road to Limburg, another particularly agree¬ able excursion. These ruins serve as the rendezvous of many a picnic party. The Convent of Arnstein , and the Chapel of Winden , both command¬ ing beautiful views, and only 3 m. above Nassau, may he visited on the same day from Ems. (Sec Rte. 96.) After leaving Ems on the way to Nassau, the road passes the old walled town of Dausenau, behind which runs a footpath leading up the ravine and over the hills to Ems, descending at the hack of the Kurhaus, commanding fine views. The high road follows the windings of the Lahn through a beau¬ tiful valley as far as Nassau Stat, — Inn: Krone—by rly. 5 m. from Ems. A chain bridge has been erected here over the Lahn, on the 1. hank of which rises the old and picturesque Castle of Nassau, the cradle (Stamm- schloss) of the families of Nassau and Orange. It was built by a Count of Laurenburg in 1101. In the 13tli cent. the family divided into 2 branches, from the elder of which springs the present Duke of Nassau, while the younger is represented by the King of Holland. The castle stands on the summit of a conical rock, and a little lower down is the less extensive ruin of the Castle of Stein , the baronial scat of another very ancient family, who have held for 500 years their estates and castle on the hanks of the Lahn as a fief from the Emperor of Ger¬ many. The present owner, the Grafin von Giech, is still of the same race, and resides in the modern chateau situated in the valley hard by, which is also shown to strangers, and contains ancient armour, trophies of the war, and other curiosities. She is the daughter of the enlightened and patriotic Prussian minister, whom Napoleon contemptu¬ ously designated “ Un nomme Stein.” He had the merit of introducing into the Prussian government those re¬ forms which have contributed largely to raise that country to its present eminence. The minister y. Stein, the last male of his family, is buried at the village of Friicht, 3 m. SAY. of Ems. Agreeable and easy paths have been cut through the woods leading to and around these 2 ruins. The views from them, and from the Gothic tower erected by the Baron von Stein on a command¬ ing point, arc as pleasing as the ruins themselves arc picturesque. Strangers are freely permitted to roam about and enjoy themselves in these grounds. In short, a day devoted to a visit to Nassau from Ems will assuredly not he con¬ sidered misspent. There is a very agreeable walk from Nassau to Ems up the valley of Diene- thal, and by Sulzbach, on the S. side of the Lahn. The beauties of the Lahn valley continue upwards beyond Arnstein (3 m.) and Limburg (Rte. 96), along hanks decorated with picturesque castles in ruins, and smiling indus¬ trious villages. Since the opening of the Rly. along the rt. bank of the Rhine (Rte. 38), travellers go to Schwalbach andSchlan- genbad from Eltville Stat., and public conveyances from Nassau to Schwal¬ bach have ceased to run. Travellers can post from Ems or from Dietz Stat. higher up the Lahn Valley, whence (it is probable) a diligence runs to Schwal¬ bach and Wiesbaden in summer. Beyond Nassau the post-road to Schwalbach ascends a steep hill, and quits the Lahn. The view from the height, looking down upon it and its castles, is most beautiful; but after that, adieu to picturesque scenes. The road passes over a bleak tract of high land, very scantily peopled, the villages and habitations in general being snugly nestled in the narrow and steep ravines which intersect in all directions this upper country. There is some fine wooded country near 2 Singhofen. . l-£ Ilolzhauscn. About 25 m. from Ems lies 2 Langen-Schwalbach .— Inns: Alice Saal (II. du Promenade), largest and Nassau. 5 15 ROUTE 95. —SCHWALBACH. SPRINGS, best situated; table-d’hote at 1 ; in tlie evening the rooms serve for dancing on Sundays, as well as for music—in fact, become the Assembly-rooms. II. du Due de Nassau, clean and good ; table- d’hote at 1 and 3. II. des Postes, well managed, fair prices and cleanliness. Lodging-houses: Maison Tivoli, clean; Pariser Hof, clean ; II. Boyal; Engli- i scher Ilof, where the author of the ‘ Bubbles’ lodged. At the lodging- houses there are no tables-d’hote ; but visitors can be provided with breakfast and tea, and have their dinners sent in to them from one of the hotels. Schwalbach (in English, Swallows’- brook), though elevated to the dignity of a town (Pop. 1800), has still the appearance of a long straggling village. All the most considerable buildings are inns or lodging-houses. It has been for centuries frequented by Germans ; but until the appearance of the ‘ Bub¬ bles from the Brunnen’ our country¬ men had passed through it year after year without taking any notice of it. heading-room in the Allee Saal. In order to enter into the spirit of the Brunnen of Nassau, no visitor can dispense with the ‘ Bubbles;’ lie must take the book in his hand. Travellers are referred to it for all general de¬ scriptions. Schwalbach has the advantage over Ems and Wiesbaden of being more free from bustle and formal restraint, which, with those in search of quiet and retire¬ ment, will gain for it the preference over these 2 watering-places. The season is usually over by the end of August; it begins in June. The winter and spring are cold, and full 3 weeks later than at Wiesbaden and in the Bheingau. The town is appropriately called Long Schwalbach , from the arrange¬ ment of its houses in one extended line § m. It contains a Bom. Cath. and 2 Protestant Churches , and a Synagogue for the Jews. Near the upper end of its long street are situated the principal Hotels, the Promenades, the Wells (Brunnen), and the Bath-house (Bad- haus). The three principal springs , which supply water for drinking as well as bathing, are—1. The Weinbrunnen, so named from some fancied resemblance to wine in its taste; and, 2. The Stahl- brunnen: both of these contain iron and carbonic acid gas in slightly va¬ rying proportions; but the Weinbrun¬ nen is more largely impregnated with iron than the Stahl (steel) Br unn en.—. 3. The Pauline , a spring which has been more recently discovered, and is named after the Duchess of Nassau, containing less iron than the other two. The Pauline spring has been traced to its fountain head at the upper end of the valley, where its water bursts out in greater quantity, and more bub¬ bling with gas. The Badhaus is a handsome build¬ ing, supported by an open colonnade, which serves as a walk in wet weather, and as a shelter for a great many itine¬ rant traders, who set up their stalls here in the season. There are scarcely any other shops in Schwalbach. The baths are much in request, and during the height of the season are occupied from 0 in the morning till 1 r. m. Every hour of the day is bespoken beforehand, and allotted to some one or other, whose name is entered in a book opposite to the hour. Those who arc not punctual to their time run the risk of losing their turn. The baths on the upper story are filled from the Pauline, those on the lower from the Stahl and Wein¬ brunnen, the waters being previously heated artificially. The price of a single bath is 1 fi. The water in which the patient prepares to immerse himself is, to use the u Old Man’s” words, “ as thick as a horsepond, and about the colour of mulligatawny soup.” Gar¬ ments immersed in it contract stains as deep as red ochre, and they who im¬ merse their heads will find that “ their pillow in the morning looks as if a rusty 18 lb. shell had been reposing on it.” The qualities of the water, how¬ ever, are bracing and strengthening in a high degree. ROUTE 95. —SCIIWALBACH. EXCURSIONS. Sect. VIII. 51(5 The diurnal proceedings of the vi¬ sitors at the baths are nearly as follows : they rise as early as 6 , and resort to the wells to drink their allotted po¬ tions, keeping themselves in constant motion backwards and forwards be¬ tween every glass. After 2 or 3 hrs. of this exercise they have fairly earned their breakfasts. The business of the bath will occupy an hour of the fore¬ noon ; and before dinner another course of water is usually prescribed. The dinner-bell sounds at 1 , and the irksome table-d’liote is rarely over in less than an hour and a half: when it is concluded, the Ger¬ mans usually allow themselves a short time to ruminate, to drink their coffee, and to smoke their pipes. At this time of day the donkeys, the slaves of the visitors at the baths, whose lives are spent in carrying, are to be seen in long array, ready to be engaged. The charges for horses, asses, and carriages are fixed by tariff, according to the length of the excursions. Donkeys, inferior to those at Ems, 36 la 1 , the hour. At 6 o’clock the ceremony of drinking the waters begins again. In the evening the Allee Saal is lighted up, and music on most days of the week serves to amuse the visitors. On Sundays the English Service is performed in the upper Protestant ch. in the Lange Gasse, soon after 11 A. M. The steep round-backed hills which hem in the town of Schwalbach and its Brunncn are intersected in all di¬ rections with paths. From the summit of the heights a number of pleasing- views are obtained. One of the most interesting is that from the little rustic wooden pavilion which stands on the top of the hill, by the side of the road leading from Schwalbach to Wies¬ baden. This agreeable “ point de vue ” is not much more than 20 min. walk from the Pauline, and those who fear to face the hill on foot may make the ascent on the back of a donkey. About -5 an lioxu-’s walk from Schwal- bach is Adolplisech , a ruined castle, said to have been built by Count Adolph of Nassau, before he became Emperor, as a residence for a fair lady, his fa¬ vourite. The excursion, however, which sur¬ passes all others around Schwalbach, is that to the Castle of IJohenstein. The carriage-road leading to it is dusty and monotonous ; the better way is to follow the windings of the little stream called the Aar, on foot or upon donkeys, passing first under the castle of Adolph - seck, and then threading the valley up¬ wards for a distance of 6 m. Its great charm is the variety of scenes it un¬ folds, its changes at every turn, its openings and closings ; at times ex¬ panding- into broad verdant meadows, then contracting- to a narrow strait with overhanging- masses of rock on both sides. At last the grand old castle of Hohenstein appears in sight, in a very romantic situation, perched on the sum¬ mit of a high black precipice, and forming a termination of the vista. This imposing feudal stronghold of the Counts of Katzenelnbogen was taken and sacked in the Thirty Years’ War, and is now totally dismantled, though some precautions have been taken to preserve it from further decay. A village composed of a few poor cottages crouches at the foot of the rock; and a small Inn will furnish the traveller with a dish of trout or crawfish from the Wiedenbacli brook, or a bottle of sour wine, if needed; but it is well to take provisions with you. There are many other old castles among the valleys of the Taunus, each of which may be made the object of a day’s excursion, particularly those of Katzenelnbogen (Cat’s Elbow), built by the Counts of that name, who an¬ ciently possessed the country between the 1thinc and the Lahn ; it is situated in a wild and solitary district, Burg Schwalbach , and Artcck. Pleasing- excursions are, 1 . to Frankfurt by Neuhof, Idstein, Esch, and Konigstein (Rte. 97); 2 . to Dietz Stat. on the Lalm Railway, and Limburg (Rte. 96), by Ilolzhauscn; 3. down the Wisperthal to Lorch on the Rhine (Rte. 38)—a tolerable carriage road, 21 m. Nassau. 517 ROUTE 95 .' —SCHLANGENBAD. BATHS. Nieder-Selters , the spring which pro¬ duces the far-famed Seltzer water, may¬ be visited from Schwalbach, but it is a long day’s journey, by cross-roads, which even in the best season are very rugged. The spring itself is situated on the high post-road leading from Limburg to Frankfurt, and it is of course most easily accessible in that direction. The admirable description of the author of the ‘ Bubbles ’ will probably afford more gratification than even a visit to the spot. The road which he took led him past the Eisen- hammer , an immense hammer, lifted by a water-wheel, which forges iron by its fall (one of the lions generally visited by the water-drinkers of Schwal¬ bach), through the villages of Neuhof and A\ r urges, both of which are post- stations, where fresh horses may ho had, to the spring of Setters, situated about \ m. from the village of Set¬ ters, which is also a post-station, and provided with a small inn. About a million and a half of bottles are ex¬ ported annually, and the quantity is increasing. Instead of returning to Schwalbach by the same road which brought him, the traveller may make an agreeable variation by descending the valley of the Lahn by rail to Nassau or Ems. (See Bte. 96.) Diligence , Schwalbach, by Schlangcn- bad, to Eltville Stat., on the Ely. to Biideshcim and Coblenz; and to Frankfurt. A capital macadamised road ( diligence daily in summer), hut very hilly, leads from Schwalbach to Schlangenbad (about 4 m.), another Brunnen of Nassau ( Inns: Nassaucr Hof; H. Victoria), in a delightful though retired situation, almost buried amongst wooded hills. It is neither a town nor village, hut consists of a group of lodging-houses. Two of these enormous buildings, resembling cotton- mills in their size and number of win¬ dows, called the Old and New Badhaus , furnish accommodation for visitors. The price of each room, marked on the door, varies from 36 kr. to 3 or 4 fl. daily. Table-d’hotc, at 1, costs 1 fl., and, for 1 fl. 45 kr., the same dinner is served in private. The Baucnthaler wine is good here. It is generally necessary to bespeak rooms by letter beforehand, from the Badmeister, an officer appointed by the Duke of Nassau, who has the charge of both houses. This place receives its name of Schlangenbad (Serpent’s Bath) from the great number of snakes and vipers, as well as the harmless kind, which not only abound in the neighbourhood, but even haunt the springs themselves, for the sake of the warmth yielded by the water, or for the frogs, the food of the viper. Though in a wooded valley, it lies high, and is constantly refreshed by cooling breezes, even in the midst of summer. The Baths are situated in the ground floor of the Old and New Badhaus , and have a somewhat dark and gloomy air. The temperature of the water is only 80° Fahrenheit, so that it needs to he heated for bathing. The sequestered little valley of Schlangenbad affords more complete retirement than any of the baths of Nassau. It is annually visited by about 800 guests, including many princes and persons of distinction from all parts of Germany and Bussia. “No part of the building is exclu¬ sively occupied by these royal guests ; but, paying for their room no more than the prices marked upon the doors, they ascend the same staircase, and walk along the same passages, with the hum¬ blest inmates of the place. The silence and apparent solitude which reigned in this new badhaus were to us always a subject of astonishment and admiration. The cell of the hermit can hardly he more peaceful.’’— Bubbles. “ The baths of Schlangenbad arc the most harmless and delicious luxuries of the sort I have ever enjoyed; and I really quite looked forward to the morning for the pleasure with which I paid my addresses to this delightful clement. The effect it produces on the 518 ROUTE 95. —SCHLANGENBAD. BATES. Sect. VIII. skin is very singular: it is about as warm as milk, but infinitely softer : and after dipping the hand into it, if the thumb be rubbed against the fin¬ gers, it is said by many to resemble satin. I must say that I never remem¬ ber to have existed in a place which possessed such fascinating beauties ; be¬ sides which (to say nothing of breathing pure dry air), it is no small pleasure to live in a skin which puts all people in good humour—at least with themselves. But besides the cosmetic charms of this water it is declared to possess virtues of more substantial value : it is said to tranquillize the nerves, to soothe all in¬ flammation ; and from this latter pro¬ perty the cures of consumption which are reported to have been effected, among human beings and cattle, may have proceeded. “ The effect produced upon the skin by lying about 20 minutes in the bath I one day happened to overhear a short fat Frenchman describe to his friend in the following words :—‘ Monsieur , dans ces bains on dement absolument amoureux de soi-memeV I cannot exactly cor¬ roborate this Gallic statement, yet I must admit that limbs, even old ones, gradually do appear as if they were converted into white marble. u The Schlangenbad water contains the muriates and carbonates of lime, soda, and magnesia, with a slight excess of carbonic acid, which holds the car¬ bonates in solution. The celebrated embellishment which it produces on the skin is, in my opinion, a sort of corrosion, which removes tan, or any other artificial covering that the sur¬ face may have attained from exposure and ill-treatment by the sun and wind. In short, the body is cleaned by it, just as a kitchen-maid scours her copper saucepan.”— Bubbles. Schlangenbad is a “ ladies’ bath.” It has a wonderful effect in calming the mind, invigorating the limbs, and smoothing wrinkles from the skin. The invalid who has imbibed in his skin the ferruginous particles of the Schwalbach water, usually repairs hither afterwards, in order to wash away the rust by a course of bathing at the Ser¬ pent’s Spring. There is nothing extra¬ ordinary in the mineral contents of these waters which would enable chemists to account for their virtue; it probably proceeds from some peculiar admix¬ ture derived from the chemistry of nature, which at present art is unable to explain, and equally incapable of imitating. Tradition relates that the spring was discovered some hundred years ago by a sick heifer, who every day sepa¬ rated herself from the herd to drink of it. The herdsman, surprised both at the periodical absence of the animal, and at the improvement in her con¬ dition, traced her foosteps one day, until he discovered her chinking at the warm spring, which now affords the same relief to human invalids which it did in the first instance to the quad¬ ruped. Schlangenbad is provided neither with a gaming-table nor a ball-room; those who seek such amusements must repair to Schwalbach or Wiesbaden. A band of music plays on the walks, to enliven the daily promenade of the water-drinkers; but the chief attractions of the place are the more natural and secluded walks among the woods and hills of the neighbourhood. Donkeys are the favourite means of conveyance, for gentlemen as well as ladies, here as elsewhere, among the baths of the Tannus. 1 English Church Service , during the season, at 5 p.m., in a chapel belonging to the Duke of Nassau. Schlangenbad is situated within a few miles of some of the most beautiful scenery of the Rhine, overlooked for the most part by the great herd of tra¬ vellers, who content themselves with steaming up and down the river. Within the distance of a day’s excur¬ sion are situated the following inter¬ esting spots :— 1. Georgenborn , a village on the car¬ riage-road to Wiesbaden, 1152 ft. above the sea-level, which commands a beau- Nassau. ROUTE 95. —EBERBACH. WIESBADEN. 519 tiful prospect over the Rhine and the Main; and Frauenstein, a small hamlet, with an old castle, and a very ancient 1 and large lime tree. 2. The Monastery of Eberbaeh, in a highly picturesque situation, at the j bottom of a wooded dell, described Rte. 38. In the way to it the stranger will pass Rauenthel, a small village, with famous vineyards in its neigh¬ bourhood ; and the chapel of Buben- hausen, a magnificent point of view; the ruined castle of Scharfenstein (once a stronghold of the Archbishops of Mayence); and the beautiful Gothic chapel (1449) of Kiedrich (Rte. 38). Eberbaeh was founded in 1131, by St. Bernard, the preacher of the Cru¬ sades. While he rambled about in doubt where to fix his holy establish¬ ment, a boar issuing out of a thicket indicated with his snout the spot upon which the church was afterwards reared. The monks of St. Bernard were famed for their riches and hospi¬ tality;—the order possessed in the Rheingau, and within a space of 3 leagues, no less than 6 convents — Zufenthal, Eberbaeh, Gottesthal, Ei- bingen, Nothgottes, and Maricnhau- sen; they were besides the owners of the Steinberg vineyard, and used to export its produce in vessels of their j own down the Rhine to Cologne. ; The vineyards, the wines, and the con¬ vent, with its estate and cellars, now belong to the Duke of Nassau. The destination of the building has been changed to a prison and lunatic asy¬ lum ; but he retains the cellars in their ancient use; they are stored with the most precious wines: some sorts sell on the spot for 7, 9, or 11 florins the bottle, and even higher. The archi¬ tecture of the church is much admired. The Swedish minister and general, Oxenstierna, took up his winter quar¬ ters in the convent, 1631. The view from the height called the Foss, near the convent, is one of the finest in the Rheingau. Immediately below it is the famed Steinberg vineyard. 3. To the castle and vineyard of J oliannisbcrg, and the Niedcrwald, described in Rte. 38. The carriage- road lies aloug the highway to May¬ ence, as far as the village of Neudorf, where it turns to the rt., and follows for a couple of miles a lane leading to Eltville Stat., on the railroad, along the rt. bank of the Rhine, to Rudesheim. There is a bridle-road direct from Schlangenbad to Eberbaeh and the Niederwald, through the woods; but a guide would be necessary to find it out. Road from Schivalbach to Frankfurt. The post-road, on quitting Schwal- bach, at once begins to ascend. The way to Schlangenbad and Mayence turns down a valley to the rt. before you surmount the hill called Ilohe Wurzel , from whose top there is a very remarkable prospect, stretching over the Rhine and Main, with Mayence in the middle distance, and the Bergstrasse in the background. On the 1. is seen the village of Klarenthal, with its ci-devant convent, and further in the distance the Platte , a hunting-seat of the Duke’s : both favourite points of excursions for the inhabitants of Wiesbaden. 2£ Wiesbaden has been justly called u a city of lodging-houses,” almost every building being appropriated either to the reception or entertainment of visitors. Inns : ls£ Class : II. des Quatre Saisons, very grand building, but too large to be comfortable ; H. do Nassau, comfortable, quiet, and re¬ spectable, well situated in the great square, near the Ivursaal ; Rose, reasonable, clean, and quiet ; Post (Eagle), noisy and bustling ; Taunus Hotel, near the rly. stat. 2nd Class — II. de France ; Griinerwald. There are besides more than 20 houses licensed to afford lodgings only, where meals are not provided ; but there are restaurateurs in the town who will send in dinners. Englischer Ilof has baths in the house; Europaischer l 520 ROUTE 95.—WIESBADEN. KUR 5 AAL. SPRINGS. Sect. VIII. Hof; Komcrbad. Charges vary ac¬ cording to the season ; a bedroom which may be had for 5 fl. a week in May and September, costs 7 fl. in June and August, and 9 fl. in July; while from October to April no more than 2 fl. is asked for it. Reading-room , in the Kursaal, well furnished with English and American newspapers. Wiesbaden is the capital of the Duchy of Nassau, and has 20,797 Inhab. It is the residence of the Duke and the seat of his government. To these cir¬ cumstances, however, it is in nowise indebted for its present prosperity, but to the celebrity of its baths and mineral waters. (§ 41.) The number of visit¬ ors attracted to this spot in search of health and pleasure amounts to 30,000 annually. Wiesbaden has a “ season” of longer duration than most of the other baths, and is almost always full from June to September, and even later, if the autumn prove fine. A handsome wide street, the Wil- helmstrasse, 4 m. long, lined with rows of trees, loads from the rly. stat., along the E. side of the town, to the Theater Platz and the Kursaal. The mast remarkable edifice is the Kursaal , occupying the E. side of a square, the N. and S. sides of which are lined by colonnades filled with gay shops, serving as a promenade in wet weather and as a sort of bazaar during the whole of the season. Opposite the Kursaal, in one corner of the square, is the theatre, in the other the huge hotel of the Vier Jahreszeiten. The Kursaal serves the purpose of ball, reading, and gaming room, and forms the centre of attraction and gaiety. It consists of a very splendid saloon of large dimensions, surrounded by pillars of Limburg marble. On Sunday the Kursaal is numerously attended. On Saturday it is open for dancing ; tickets are required. On Friday concerts arc given. On the rt. hand of the sallc are the gambling-rooms, where gaming is car¬ ried on almost from morning to night. A Frenchman pays 43,000 florins yearly rent for the privilege of opening gaming¬ tables. The public lose at them 275,000 fl. per annum on an average !! On the 1. are supper-rooms, which are usually fully occupied in the evening. Supper is served a la carte. When dinner is over every one be¬ takes himself to the garden behind the Kursaal, to sip coffee or ices. Tables are placed out in the open air, within hearing of a band of music, which always plays on these occasions; and while the gentlemen indulge in a pipe, the ladies, in the homely and industrious fashion of Germany, generally occupy themselves by knitting while they chat. At such times the space behind the Kur¬ saal is so completely filled with com¬ pany, and the tables are so crowded together, that there is barely room to pass ; high and low arc promiscuously mingled together, and the whole forms the most pleasing and characteristic scene of “ Wiesbaden Life.” The hours of chinking the waters arc from 5 or 6 to 8 in the morning, and again partially in the evening about 6 or 7. A short interval is allowed to elapse between the morning draught and the bath. A long avenue of mop-acacias serves as a promenade for the water-drinkers, and leads up to the principal spring, the Kochbrunnen (boiling spring). It has all the appearance of a caldron in violent ebullition, and its temperature is 56° of Keaumur, equal to 156° of Fahrenheit. Its waters are used both for drinking and to supply the principal baths in the town ; but so copious is the source that after all this consumption a vast quantity runs over and escapes through the gutters and drains. A stranger is astonished at first, as he walks along the streets, to perceive clouds of vapour arising on all sides out of the ground. This may be sup¬ posed to add somewhat to the warmth of the place in summer : if other places are hot, Wiesbaden may be said to be boiling hot. There are 13 other springs in the town, all of a high temperature. The spring next in heat and volume is that rising in the garden of the Adler hotel (48° Keaumur). The water-drinkers repair to the well Nassau. ROUTE 95. —WIESBADEN. PFAHLGRABEN. 521 at 5 or 6 o’clock a.m., and, receiving their portion scalding hot, walk about, glass in hand, until it is cool enough to be drunk. In taste it has been com¬ pared to chicken broth, but it is more like boiled sea-water. By 8 o’clock the promenade is usually cleared, and the business of bathing begins. The water in the bath is covered with a greasy film or scum, which collects on the surface while cooling : and which, however uninviting it may appear, is the test of its being quite fresh, and not having been used before. After the ceremony of the bath, the doctors allow their patients to take their breakfast, which they have thus in a manner earned. The hot springs and their medicinal properties were well known to the Itomans, who called them Fontes Mat - tiaci. Pliny the naturalist says of them, that they retain their heat for the space of 3 days :—“ Sunt ct Mattiaci in Germania fontes calidi quorum haustus triduo fervet.”— Nat. Hist. lib. 31. c. 2. The waste waters from the springs, retaining for a length of time a warm temperature, are carried off to the Bhine, where they not only never freeze, but, by their warmth, even preserve that part of the river where they enter free from ice. They serve as a nursery or stew for carp, which, fostered by the heat, grow to an enormous size in them. They deposit a copious calcareous sedi¬ ment or stalactite, which would in a short time choke up the pipes and channels in which they are carried through the town, were they not regu¬ larly cleared out. The Romans established a station here—they built a fort or castle on the hill to the N.AV. of the town, still known as the Pomerberg, which was for a long time garrisoned by the 22nd Legion, as is proved by inscriptions on stones and stamps upon the tiles found near the spot. In the 3rd cent, the barbarian Germans attacked and de¬ stroyed the Roman fortresses on the rt. bank of the Rhine, and Wiesbaden shared the fate of the rest. Ashes and calcined bones still dug up on the Romerberg attest its ruin. In after times Charlemagne used constantly to repair hither from his favourite resi¬ dence at Ingelheim, to enjoy the baths. He built himself a palace (Sala) in the street which still retains the name of Saal Gasse, though the building has dis¬ appeared. In the town at the bottom of the Heidenberg Strasse, and behind the Ad¬ ler hotel, is a piece of stone wall, 650 ft., long, 10 ft. high, and 9 ft. thick, called the Heidenmauer (Heathen’s Wall). A few miles to the N. of Wiesbaden are the remains of a fortified wall, pass¬ ing through a great extent of country. It is called the Pfahlgraben. Before the Romans quitted the country N. of the Rhine, they raised this stupendous barrier along their frontier. It was begun, ac¬ cording to Tacitus, by Drusus, stepson of Augustus, to defend his conquest from the inroads of the Germans, and was finished by Hadrian and Caracalla. It resembles the Piets’ wall in England, but surpasses it in extent. It consists of a rampart from 12 to 18 ft. high, strengthened by towers at regular dis¬ tances, and with a fosse originally lined with palisades, whence its name. It commences at Neuwied on the Rhine ; it runs thence by Montabauer to Ems, across the Lahn by Miehlen, Schwal- bach, Wehen, Idstcin, and Heftrich to the foot of the Feldberg, and from thence may be traced in a N.E. direc¬ tion, by Wehrheim, towards Butzbacli. Several of the summits of the Taunus are crowned by forts or circular ram¬ parts. This waU, raised to protect the Mattiaci against the inroads of the Catti, has been supposed, but erroneously, to form part of the great stone wall con¬ structed by the Empr. Probus from the Danube to the Rhine, to guard the provinces of the empire against the Alemanni. (See Gibbon, ch. xii.) The Schlosschen (little palace), in the Wilhelm’s Strasse, contains a very good Public Library of 60,000 volumes, includ¬ ing among the MSS. the Vision of St. 522 ROUTE 95. —'WIESBADEN. MUSEUM. Sect. YIII Ilildegard, on parchment, with remark¬ able miniatures of the 12th cent., and a Museum or Cabinet of Antiquities , chiefly local, or derived from the Duchy of Nassau. The most curious relic, per¬ haps, is a bas-relief found at Heddera- heim, near Frankfurt, representing the youthful god Mythras, in a Phrygian bonnet, in the act of sacrificing a pros¬ trate hull, surrounded by symbolical figures, and surmounted by the 12 signs of the Zodiac. The worship of Mythras was introduced by the Bomans from Persia, and set up by the Pagan priest¬ hood in opposition to Christianity, then in its infancy. Here is also the bronze top of the standard of a cohoi’t of the 22nd Legion; a curiously carved altar- piece (25 ft. long and 9 ft. high), from the sequestrated abbey of Marienstadt, near Hachenburg, dating from the 13th cent.; the monuments of Diether and Eber- liard von Katzcnelnbogen brought from the convent of St. Clara, and some painted glass. There is also a collection of Pictures , but few of them answer to the names attached to them. The Theatre begins at 6^ p. m. One of the most prominent buildings in the town is the Protestant Church , opposite the palace, of smooth brick, surmounted by five towers, finished 1860. A handsome B. Catholic church has been built, with 2 towers of open -work, in the Louiscn Platz. The traveller should not fail to visit the superb Russo-Greek Chapel , on the hill called Neroberg (from a tradition that that emperor dwelt there), about 1 m., 30 min. drive, from the Kursaal. It was raised by the Duke of Nassau, at a cost of 30 million florins, to contain the remains of his first wife, a Bussian princess, and her recumbent effigy in marble by Hopfgarten, a touch¬ ing work of art. It is lined with costly marbles, and is surmounted by 5 gilt cupolas. It well deserves to be seen. English Church Service is performed every Sunday by an English clergyman, at 11 a.m. and 6 p.m., in the handsome English Church , built by subscription in the 'W’ilhelmstrasse. It was finishec 1864 ; its material red brick and sand¬ stone. It cost 2500/., and visitors are invited to contribute towards paying off a portion of debt still remaining. Eilwagen daily to Dietz Stat. ; to Limburg; to Schwalbach. Railways to Mosbach (Biberich) and Mayencc ; to Frankfurt; to Blidesheim, Lahnstein, and Coblenz. Terminus near the end of the ’Wilhelmsstrasse. Wiesbaden differs from the other, watering-places of Nassau, in being a ! regularly built town. It is also some¬ what noisy and bustling dining the I season, but has the same advantages | with the rest in beauty of situation, and a picturesque neighbourhood, affording agreeable walks and rides, and the most , complete retirement within a few hun- i dred yards of its precincts. By ascend- j ing any of the adjacent heights, ele¬ vated only a few hundred ft. above the I town, a charming prospect is disclosed to view, of the Bliine and fertile Bheingau, I in which the spires and boat-bridge of Mayence form a prominent object; and the horizon is backed on the E. by the Odenwald and by the Mclibocus sur¬ mounted by its white tower; on the S. by the ridge of the Donnersberg or MontTonnere, inBhenish Bavaria. From the Geisberg, about a mile from the town, this view is seen to great advantage. One of the pleasantest walks, and nearest at hand, is through the shrub¬ beries, which begin behind the Kursaal, to the Bietenmuhle and ruined castle of Sonnenberg, a distance of 2 m. A more extensive and beautiful view, however, is obtained from the Platte , a hunting-seat of the Duke of Nassau, about 4 m. off; an excellent carriage- road leads up to it. It is a plain white building conspicuous from all sides, situated on the verge of a hill 1300 ft. above the Bhine, overlooking the plain, and backed by thick woods ; within, it is tastefully and appropriately fitted up ; part of the furniture is ingeniously formed out of buck-horn. It is shown to strangers at all times. The view is A | l Cathedral F | 2 SfMeonhaixl .£) 3 S!Peter* .F 4 Liehtix men kirth e E ; 3 StXidiolns . £ 6 St ft ml £ 7 t>? Catherine D 3 Homer* ThwnTxdH ) .. E 9 Saalhof ... E 10 Dil.or Teutonic order. V 11 Palace or' Prince of Thnm & Taxis. . D 12 Stddel Museum ft 13 SenJcenbery Mils.. D 11 Public Library .jj ;15 M. hethmann .G 16 E.rchancte .. £ 17 Post office . E 18 Theatre .. ..C 19 Casino . D 20 ( '.Jiipels shop .£) ! 21 House in which ifoethe was horn ..D 22 Goethes Statue .C . 23 Mem* ofHessians .G . 21 Police ten and .F < 25 Svncuyocfue .. .F * 26 Rothschilds _ ..f 1 i 0/0 \ \ Hotels 27 H.de Russie . . E c 28 Romischer Juriser ..E c 3f) JJ,d Aiipletene .... D d 30 Weisse Schwcax . C c 31 W&denbiisch .C c 4JUr Jews farmer Burial Ground Ro s s Markt VpperMdin Gate Main* iCkm^k Scale ftiblished b} f John Murray Hlbemarle Street London . Engraved br J .& C.Walker ROUTE 95. —FRANKFURT ON THE MAIN. 523 Nassau. best seen from the platform on the roof. The neighbouring woods abound in herds of deer: many of them assemble round the Platte in the evening to be fed. The pedestrian may find a short cut over the Goisberg, and past the weeping oak, to the Platte. Ihe road is quite direct, and the pedestrian has only to avoid turning off either to the % rt. or 1. into the cross-roads which occur at intervals. A little to the left of the road to the Platte lies the convent (now se¬ cularised) of Klarenthal , and the Fa- sanerie (Pheasantry), a shooting-box of the Duke’s, which also deserves a visit. At Biberich , the palace of the Grand Duke of Nassau, close to the railroad to Mayence and Piidesheim, lies plea¬ santly by the side of the Rhine. The numerous interesting spots situated in the Rheingau between Biberich, Riidesheim, and above all the Nie- derwald, all within the distance of a morning’s ride from Wiesbaden, are described in Rte. 38. An agreeable ex¬ cursion of a day or two may be made through the part of the range of the Taunus lying between Wiesbaden and Ilomburg. (Rte. 97.) liaiFoay^^om Wiesbaden to Mayence in 16 min.; thence in 1 hour (see Rte. 99) to Frankfurt a. M. Station. Fiacres , 1 or 2 persons 24 kr., 3 persons 30 kr.; 6 kr. extra for every box. Omnibus 12 la-.; 6 kr. extra for every box. Frankfurt on the Main (in Ger¬ man Frankfurt-am-Main).— Inns: *11. de Russie—table-d’hote, 2\ fl. with¬ out wine ; Romischcr Kaiser : botli good family hotels: tablc-d’hote at 1, 1 fl. 45 kr.; at 4, 2 fl. (wine extra);— II. d’Angleterre ;—West-end-hall, out¬ side the town, near the Taunus and Main-Weser Stat.;—Der Weisse Schwan (White Swan), good cuisine ; and opposite to it II. de 1’Union.— 2nd class : Pariser Ilof;—Landsberg, near the Zeil, good and moderate: table-d'hote at 1, 1 fl. Cafe, Milani, close to the Theatre. Frankfurt is a Free Town, and the seat of the German Diet; it lies on the rt. bank of the Main, and is connected by a stone bridge with the smaller quarter or suburb of Sachsenhausen on the 1. bank. It has 82,600 Inhab., of whom 4500 are Jews. It is one of the most lively as well as handsome cities in Germany. Many of the houses in the New Town , especially in the prin¬ cipal street, called Zeil, in the Neue Mainzer and Taunus-Strasse, and on the quays facing the Main, inhabited by rich merchants, bankers, or diplo¬ matists, are palaces. The Old Town , on the other hand, with its narrow streets and quaint wooden buildings, with gables over¬ hanging their basement stories, forms a complete contrast to the new. Many of the houses are of great antiquity, especially in the quarter around the Cathedral and Romerberg; they pre¬ serve all the character of “ the ancient Imperial Free City.” The curiosities of Frankfurt arc— X The Cathedral (Dom) ; chiefly re¬ markable on account of the coronation of the Emperors of Germany having taken place within it. The church is not much distinguished for beauty of symmetry of architecture (the nave, low and short, the oldest part, dates from the 13th cent., and the choir from 1338). The finest portion is its tower, begun 1415, and carried on for nearly 100 years to its present condition, and still unfinished. It has also a fine S. doorway, which is blocked up by sheds. The interior is very plain, whitewashed, and with a vile modern gallery running- round one side of the transepts and the aisles. It contains one or two curious monuments, especially that of the Em¬ peror Gunther of Schwarzburg (on the rt. of the choir), who was killed (1349) by his rival Charles IV., and that of Rudolph of Sachsenhausen abundantly ornamented; a curious group of old painted sculpture of the 12th cent, representing the DeatlUof the Virgin (in tlie chapel on the 1. side of the choir); and a remarkable clock, 1460, close to the N. door. St. Bernard preached the Crusade to an enthusiastic audience, and performed miracles, in 524 ROUTE 95. —FRANKFURT. ROMER. Sect. VIII. this church. In the Election Chapel (Wahlkapelle) the Emperor was chosen: and 46 Emperors, after having here gained their election, have been after¬ wards crowned in front of the high altar. Here are shown the chair in which the Emperor sat in church, and two of the stools for the Electors. X The Town - house , called Bomer, a building of the 15th cent., has also far less of architectural beauty to re¬ commend it than of historical interest, as the scene of the ceremonies attend¬ ing the Election of the Emperors, and the place where the festivities succeed¬ ing their coronation were celebrated. The walls of the banqueting-room or Ivaisersaal, an irregular apartment, in the shape of a rhomboid, where the Emperors were entertained, and waited on at table by kings and princes, are covered with their portraits (52) in the order of succession, from Conrad I. to Francis II., recently painted by Lessing , Bendeman , Bethel , and other eminent living artists, in the place of some vile daubs of the sign-post school. Under nearly every one is the motto which the Emperor adopted at his coronation, like sergeants-at-law when called to the degree of the coif. At the end of the Hall is the Judgment of Solomon by Steinle. These paintings are the gifts of different royal, noble, and private persons, citizens of Frank¬ furt, &c., and many have great merit. The Hall has been restored in adherence to the ancient style, the decoration of the ceiling being copied from the ori¬ ginal design. In the election chamber (Wahlzimmer), the Senate of Frankfurt now holds its sittings. Here is pre¬ served the famous Golden Bull, or deed by which the Empr. Charles IV. (1356) settled the mode of Election of the German Emperors, and the number of the Electors. It is shown for the extra¬ vagant fee of a ducat, which many will consider the sight of a dusty parchment hardly to deserve. The Kaisersaal, which is on the 1st floor, is open to the public every Mon., Wed., and Friday from 11 to 1 : at other times admission may be gained by ringing the bell of that door of the antecham¬ ber of the 'Wahlzimmcr which is op¬ posite to the door by which it is en¬ tered. In the Market-place, called the Bomerherg , in front of the building, (which, down to 1700, no Jew was ever allowed to cross), upon the oc¬ casion of the Imperial coronation, an ox was roasted whole, from which the Arch-Steward (Erb-Truchscss) cut a slice for the Emperor: a fountain flowed with wine from which the Arcli- Cupbearer (Erb-Mundschenk) fillod his glass, and the Arch-Marshal distri¬ buted corn from a silver measure; and the populace enjoyed the privilege of appropriating the scarlet cloth upon which the Emperor walked from the cathedral. So greedily was it cut away behind him as he passed onwards, that he ran the risk of having his heels cut also. The ceremonies observed at an Imperial coronation may be seen in some old prints on the staircase of the public library, and in the election chapel at the cathedral. Drawings of the re¬ galia too are hung up on the library staircase. St. Leonhard’s Ch. (1323), near the river, occupies the spot where the pa¬ lace of Charlemagne stood: no traces of it now exist. lie assembled the Bishops ancFTFrinces of the Empire here at ^rankoiiofurd (the Frank’s Saalhof , a gloomy modern build¬ ing (1717), near the Main, retains the name alone of the palace of his son and successors. The Gothic chapel, however, appears to be as old as the 10th cent. Sachsenhauscn , the Southwark of Frankfurt, on the 1. bank of the river, is, as its name implies, a Saxon colony —a different race from the Franks on the rt. bank of the Main, and is under a distinct jurisdiction. Immediately above the old Bridge over the Main, which is crowned by a modern statue of Charlemagne, on the side of Sack- senhausen , stands the ancient Palace of the Knights of the Teutonic Order. Close to the bridge are remains of the old palace of the Counts of Isen- berg; one side is of good Elizabethan Gothic. There are two institutions for the encouragement of arts and sciences, ford). The Nassau. ROUTE 95. —FRANKFURT. MUSEUM. 525 Which reflect the highest credit upon the town of Frankfurt. X 1. The *Stadel Museum of Pictures , a handsome building, in the Ncue Main- zer Strasse, is named after its fomider, a citizen of Frankfurt, who bequeathed his collections of paintings, drawings, and engravings to the city, along with a largo sum, amounting to about 83,000d, for building and maintaining a Public Gallery and School of Art. The sum annually available for the purchase of pictures is about 800 guineas. The secretary is M. Passa- vant, the biographer of Raphael. The collection is open to the public gratis, from 11 to 1 daily, except Sunday, when it is open from 10 to 1. At other times a fee of 30 kr. will pro¬ cure admission. The pictures which it contains con¬ sist of some curious specimens of the early masters of Germany and the Low Countries, of a not very numerous or remarkable collection of Dutch and Italian masters, and of some of the best works of the modern German School. The following are perhaps the most worthy of notice :— 1st Room. Italian School. 1, Perugino -—Virgin and Child. 19, Gio. Bellini — Holy Family. 398, Moretto —Virgin and Child, with the four Fathers of the Latin Church (from Cardinal Fesch’s collection : cost 30,000 fl.), -a very re¬ markable work, perhaps the finest by the master on this side the Alps. 400, Paris Bor clone — Sketch for his great picture at Venice, representing the Fisherman presenting St. Mark’s Ring to the Doge. ( Handbook for A r . Italy, p. 389.) 2nd Boom (Grosser Saal). Here arc the following works of modern German artists:—96, Ilubner — Job with his Friends. 99, Lessing —Huss before the Council of Constance. Very carefully composed and elaborately finished ; los¬ ing, indeed, much of its power by its minute finish. 100, Achenbach —Storm on the coast of Norway. 103, Bethel . —Daniel in the Lions’ Den. 104, Schnon —The Good Samaritan. 106, Lessing —Ezzclin in Prison, after the Battle of Cassano. 3rd Boom. Ovcrbech —The Triumph of Christianity in the Arts. Considered a chef-d’oeuvre of the artist: all the heads are portraits of persons renowned as authors, divines, or artists. In this production of elaborate pedantry the traveller will easily discover how much the artist has borrowed from Raphael’s School of Athens and Dispute of the Sacrament. 111. A remarkable altar- piece, consisting of a centre and two wings, representing the events of the Crucifixion, by a Cologne artist of the beginning of the 15th cent.; formerly attributed to Schoreel. In this room are some curious w r orks of the early German School, and a portrait by Q. Metsys, 138, erroneously called Kuip- perdolling 4th Boom. Dutch and Flemish Schools. A poor collection. 186, Hobbema — Landscape. 194, Buysdael —Storm clear¬ ing off. Wood and Waterfall. 201, Wynants —Landscape. 221, Rubens— Portrait of his infant Daughter, who afterwards became a nun. In the Q>th Boom are the following- works : — 344, Schadow —- The wise and foolish Virgins. 347-356, Steinle — 10 coloured cartoons, for the frescoes at the Castle of Rlici- neck. 357-361, Schnorr —Cartoons of subjects from Orlando Furioso. 362-371, Ramboux —10 coloured draw¬ ings from the Divina Commedia. In a room opening out of the 3rd room, and called the Frcsco-Saal, is a fresco by Veit, representing the introduction of the arts into Germany by Christianity, with two allegorical figures of Italy and Germany at the sides. Here are casts of the latest of Ghiberti’s 2 cele¬ brated bronze doors of the Baptistery, Florence ; and of parts of the other, and of that by Andrea Pisano; and a singular and very remarkable composi¬ tion, in terra-cotta, representing the Virgin and Saints, by Giorg. Andrioli , 1511, from the Cli. of the Madonna del Rosario at Gubbio, in the province of Urbino. The very interesting collec¬ tion of engravings contains some etch¬ ings by Flemish masters not to be met with in any other cabinet. 526 ROUTE 95. —FRANKFURT. MUSEUM. LIBRARY. Sect. VIII. 2. The Senhenberg Museum of Na¬ tural History (close to the picturesque Eschenheim Gate, a building of the 14th cent.) contains very good col¬ lections in the various branches of na¬ tural history, tolerably well arranged. Many rare specimens, not to be found in other museums, were brought to Europe by the enterprising traveller Riippell, a native of Frankfurt, from Egypt, Nubia, the shores of the lied Sea, and Abyssinia. They are the re¬ sult of several arduous and interesting journeys undertaken by him, at his own expense, for the benefit of this museum. A small annuity has been settled on him for life by the city of Frankfurt since his return. There is a small ethnological collection at the top of the house. The Museum is opened to the public gratis, twice a week, for 2 hrs.; Wed. 2 to 4; Frid. 11 to 1. Members have access every afternoon. A small fee to the keeper will procure admission for a stranger from 8 to 1 and 3 to 6 on other days, to this collection. * BanneclicP s Statue of Ariadne , placed in a Museum , erected expressly for it, in the villa of Mr. Moritz von Bethman, outside the Friedberg Gate, is the great boast of Frankfurt, and deserves to be ranked among the distinguished productions of modern art. The artist, whose works are little known in England, was a native of Wurtemberg. The statue is placed in a Grecian temple, built for its reception, and is usually shown from 10 to 1 daily : fee 24 kr. Here is preserved a mask from the face of the unfortunate Prince Liclmowsky, so basely and cruelly murdered by the Republicans on Sept. 19, 1848, near this spot. Close to the Friedberg Gate stands the monument erected by the King of Prussia to the memory of the Hessian soldiers killed in the siege of Frank¬ furt, 1792. The Public Library , in a handsome building, facing the Main, close to the Ober Main Thor, is a useful collection of books. In the entrance-hall is a marble statue of Gothe, by Marchesi. The Library possesses a few curi¬ osities, among which are portraits of Luther (by L. Cranach ?), and of his wife Cath. a Bora; 2 pair of Luther’s shoes, two missals with curious old carvings in ivory on the covers, and a tine copy of the first edition of the Bible printed by Faust at Mainz. The Library is open, Tues. and Thurs. 11 to 12 ; "Wed. and Frid. 2 to 4. The poet Gothe was born at Frank¬ furt, in the house marked F. No. 74, in the Hirschgraben , 1749. His father’s coat of arms, which, by a curious coincidence, bears the poetical device of 3 lyres, still remains over the door. The poet’s room, a garret, contains relics of him, his portrait, autographs, a washstancl, &c. A monumental statue of him by Schicanthaler of Munich stands in the Alice, facing the Theatre; it is of bronze, pedestal and figure, and is a fine work: the subjects of the bas- reliefs are taken from Gothe’s works. There is also a statue of Schiller by Dielman, in the Schiller Platz, behind the grand guard-house (Hauptwache). In the midst of the Rossmarht , which is crossed on entering the town from the rly. stat., is placed the Gutenburg Denhnal; a colossal group of statues of Gutenberg, Faust, and Schoffer, the inventors of printing. Round the base are ranged heads of 13 eminent printers. Luther resided in a corner house in the Bom Platz , now marked by his por¬ trait and the inscription, u In silentio et spe erit fortituclo vestra.” Frankfurt is the cradle of the Roth¬ schild family; the house in which they were born is in the Judcngassc (Jews’ Street), which long retained the pri¬ mitive air of antiquity, and the usual rags and refuse of a Jews’ quarter, but is gradually becoming modernized. The Jews, who form no inconsider¬ able portion of the community here, have till very lately been treated with great illibcrality by the Free Town. The gates of the quarter to which they were exclusively confined were closed upon them at an early hour every night, after which ingress and egress were alike denied. This arbitrary municipal. regulation was enforced, until Marshal Jourdan, in bombarding the town (179G), knocked down the gate of the Nassau. ROUTE 95. —FRANKFURT. EXCHANGE, ETC. Jews’ quarter, along with many houses near it, and they have not been re¬ placed since. Another tyrannical law, not repealed until 1834, restricted the number of marriages among the He¬ brews in the town to 13 yearly. The Synagogue , ail old and curious Gothic building, is situated in the Judengasse. The Jews are no longer compelled to live in this street, but may hire or pur¬ chase houses in other quarters. The principal business carried on at Frankfurt is banking and jobbing in the funds. A new Exchange (Borse) has been built on the Neue Krame, behind the Bomer. It is in the style which at Munich is called Byzantine ; and built of a brown stone, with stripes of red stone arranged in the fashion of the Cathedral at Sienna. The architect is Stiller , of Berlin; the statues in front represent Hope and Prudence, the quarters of the Globe, Commerce, &c. The interior is a curious mongrel style of semi-mauresque, but worthy notice. The Braunfels , which formerly served that purpose, is an old building in which the Empr. Maximilian and Gus- tavus Adolphus resided; it is filled with traders at the fair time. Near the Borse is the modern Ch. of St. Paul , in which the would-be German Parlia¬ ment of 1848 met. Frankfurt has hitherto been a staple place, or entrepot, for central Europe, receiving the productions and manufac¬ tures of all parts of the world, to dis¬ tribute them in detail over the whole Continent. In 1836 it acceded to the Prussian Custom-house league (§ 32), which may perhaps influence the ex¬ tent of its commercial transactions in future. The Frankfurt Fairs are held at Easter, and 3 weeks before Michael¬ mas. They are less important than formerly. While they last, and during the week preceding their commence¬ ment, the inns in the town are thronged to excess, so that it is difficult to obtain accommodation. The articles exposed for sale are mostly inferior to English manufactures, but at the same time cheaper; about one-fifth of the booths are pipe-shops and one-third toyshops! Fr) 7 O-j { The territory of Frankfurt does not much exceed 10 Eng. sq. m. in extent; its limits are marked by ancient watch- towers erected on the high roads. The Germania Diet meets at the resi¬ dence of the Austrian Ambassador, in the building formerly the Palace of the Prince of Thurn and Taxis. Ministers from Great Britain, the United States, and almost all the states of Europe, reside here ; and travellers going to Austria or Italy should not neglect this opportunity of having their passport properly vise. British Consul resides here. The English Service is performed every Sunday at 11 a.m. and 3 p.m., in the ch. on the Goethe Platz, by the resident chaplain of the embassy. Physicians. —Dr. Spies has a wide¬ spread reputation. Dr. F. Funk, some¬ time physician to the Duke of Hamilton, is physician to the British Legation. He visits Homburg regularly during the season. The Theatre , not very good, is usually open every day; it begins at 6 or and ends at 9. There is a summer theatre at Bockcnheim, a village near Frankfurt on the NAY., and the first stat. on the Frankfurt and Cassel Bailway (Bte. 70). The Post-office is No. 52 in the Zeil, a few doors from the Hotel de Bussie, on the same side of the street. The Casino is one of the best clubs (§ 44) in Germany; nearly 100 dif¬ ferent papers are taken in; among them most of the French papers, Galig- nani’s Messenger, the Times, and one or two other English journals. The Burger Verein is a new Club established by the citizens, Eschenheim St., a very handsome edifice, furnished with a capital Beacling-room and restaurant. To both these Clubs strangers are libe¬ rally admitted upon the introduction of a member, and even ladies on certain days. The Cafe Milani, Theater Platz, No. 13, is on the plan of French and Italian Cafes, and has a room for ladies, where no smoking is allowed. Baths. —Grebs’ warm, cold, vapour baths, &c., Main Kay, J 45, close 523 ROUTE 95.— ‘FRANKFURT ON THE MAIN* Sect, VIII. to the Leonhards Thor and St. Leon¬ hard’s Ch., are good. The shop of M. Jiigel , the bookseller , opposite the great guard-house, is a pleasant lounge. Besides guide-hooks, maps, and views likely to be useful and interesting to travellers, there are usually some very tolerable pictures, or other objects of art, for sale here. Ilis Circulating Library contains all the new books, French, German, and English, as they appear. Mr. Jiigel is the Ga- lignani of Frankfurt; he speaks Eng¬ lish, and is very civil and obliging in furnishing all sorts of information to strangers. Mr. Schmerber’s (opposite the Ildtel de Bussie) shop possesses similar ad¬ vantages. Bohemian or Bavarian glass may be had at Tacchi’s, No. 44 in the Zeil, and at Vogelsang and Sons’, Liebfrauenberg, who have a manufactory near Strakonitz. The reliefs cut in stags’ horn (Hirsch- horn), after the manner of a cameo, are very pretty. They may be had at Bolder’s manufactory , 54 Zeil, and at Bing’s, also in the Zeil, and elsewhere. The bronze copy of the Ariadne of Dannecker is to bo had here, and at Ihlee’s, 63 Zeil. Pillot and Sohn, 35 Zeil, opposite the Hotel de Bussie, is a good shop for canvas work in wool, and embroidery (Stramin and Stickerei). Mr. S. Gands, 24 Bronncr Strasse, is recommended to the editor as a teacher of German. lie is a native of Hanover. J. J. Weiler and Sons , 41 Zeil, are respectable money-changers. Public Gardens. — The agreeable belt of gardens which encircles the town of Frankfurt is one of its most pleasing and ornamental features. No stranger should omit to visit them. They occupy the site of the ancient fortifications. Bands play twice a-week here in summer. The Old and New Cemeteries , about 1^ mile from the Friedberg Gate, are worth visiting (§ 45). The ground com¬ mands a charming view of Frankfurt and the Taunus. Among the monu¬ ments under the arcade at the N. upper end, that of the Bethman family, with beautiful bas-reliefs by Thorwaldsen } is well worth notice. A costly monu¬ ment has been set up to the Countess Beichenbach, who was married to the late Elector of Hesse. Sommering the naturalist, and Feuerbach the lawyer, are buried here. Here is a Monument to the Prince Lichnowsky and Gen. Auerswald, Prus¬ sian deputies to the Diet, so dastardly murdered by Be volutionary assassins, Sept. 18,1848. Also to several Prussian officers who lost their lives in storming the barricades on that occasion. Many pleasant Excursions may be made from Frankfurt. 1. To Wies¬ baden and the Brunnen of Nassau by railway (Bte. 95). 2. To the Tau¬ nus mountains by railway as far as Hbchst and Soden (Bte. 97). 3. To Homburg. By rail or by omnibus” 8 or 10 times a day (Bte. 97). 4. To the Baths of Nauheim, taking the same railway (Bte. 70). The Prince of Thurn and Taxis enjoys the right of managing the Posts of some of the minor German states. His head post-office is at Frankfurt. Railroads :—1. to Mayence and Wies¬ baden ; 2. to Darmstadt and Heidel- burg ; 3. to Cassel (Main-Weser-Bahn) —from Frankfurt to Paris , via Mainz, Mannheim, Saarbrucken, and Forbach, in 18 hrs., by express train ; to Budes- heim, Lahnstein, and Coblenz. The 3 Termini are situated close together out¬ side the Gallus Thor. To Wurzburg and Nuremburg by Ilanau (terminus outside Allerheiligen Thor, on the E. side of the town). Steamers on the Main —to Mayence and Cologne daily. ROUTE 96. 529 Nassau. —GIESSEN TO COBLENZ. WEILBURG. ROUTE 96. GIESSEN TO COBLENZ, BY WEILBURG, LIMBURG, AND EMS—RAILROAD. 60 Eng. m. 4 Trains daily in 3^ hrs. Giessen lies on tire railroad from Frankfurt to Cassel. (Rte. 70.) Wetzlar June. Stat. Buffet.—/nw, Herzogliclies Haus; tolerable. This was anciently a free Imperial town, and scat of the Imperial Chamber from 1698 to 1806; but at the Peace of Paris, it, together with the iso¬ lated territory attached to it, was made over to the King of Prussia. It is old and badly built, but is charm¬ ingly situated in the Lahn valley, sur¬ mounted by the ruined hill fort Kals- munt ; it contains about 5500 Inhab., and has a Cathedral or Bom, amicably di¬ vided between Catholics and Protes¬ tants. It is a curious mixture of dates and styles of architecture and sculp¬ ture. The tower, constructed of rough blocks of basalt and sandstone, with its singular portal and sculpture are Ro¬ manesque. The choir is Pointed of 13th and 14th cent. It has an elegant Roodscreen —among the sculptures on which are odd sphinx-like figures, the monuments are well preserved. Wetzlar derives some celebrity from being the scene of Gothe’s romance, ‘ The Sorrows of Werther,’ founded on events which actually occmTcd here. The hero was a Legations Secretary, named Jerusalem ; he is buried in the churchyard outside the Walbach Gate. In front of that gate is Charlotte’s Fountain, and the house .of her father, whose name was Amtmann Buff. The author has described, under the name of Walheim , the village of Garbenlieim, 2 m. distant. The French General l>. G.] Iloche died at Wetzlar of consumption. 2 m. below Wetzlar is the fine Gothic ch. of Altenberg , originally attached to a convent. It contains curious monu¬ ments. Rail to Cologne, by Sicgburg, Rte. 47. The next stage lies at some distance from the river, passing the town of Braunfels Stat. On the height above is the Chateau of the mediatised Prince of Solms-Braunfels. Immediately be¬ yond it the Prussian territory ends, and that of Nassau begins. 3 Weilburg Stat. (Inns: Schwan, good, with a fine view; Traube) is beau¬ tifully situated on a high bank above the river, being built on a peninsula, which is joined to the 1. bank by a narrow node of land, and has a Castle , an¬ ciently the residence of the Ducal family of Nassau-Weilburg,—removed since the extinction of the line of Nassau-Usingen to Biberich. The gardens extend down to the river. The Dukes of Nassau are buried in a church here. In the vicinity there is an ex¬ tensive park. The view of Weilburg is surpassed by few scenes in N. Ger¬ many, the principal features being the old castle on a rock, the bridge, and the winding river. The hill on which Weilburg stands has been perforated by a Tunnel for the passage of the waters of the Lahn. It was at Weilburg that, in 1836, Mr. Ilollond, M.P. for Hastings, Mr. Monde Mason, and Mr. C. Green, descended in the “ Nassau Balloon,” having made the voyage from London to this place in 18 hrs., starting at IT p.m., and arriving here at 7% on the following morning. [There is a road hence by Usingen, over the Taunus, and down upon Homburg to Frankfurt, 8 Germ, m. = 38^ Eng. m. It passes through some fine forests, mostly belonging to the Duke of Nassau, whose park is passed. At Usingen is a palace be¬ longing to the Duke. From the top of the hill, before descending into Hom¬ burg, there is a fine view of the Oden- wald, as far as the Duchy of Baden.] This part of the valley of the Lahn is picturesque, enclosed by wooded hills, and is interesting to the geologist. It was formerly partitioned out between 2 A 530 ROUTE 96. —LIMBURG. THE LAHN. RIET2. Sect. VITl. the 4 reigning houses of Solms, Isen- hurg, Nassau, and Konigstein. Runkel Stat., an ancient town and castle of the prince of Wicd. A little above Limburg, on the rt. hank of the Lahn, is the very old Church of Dietkirchen, standing on a rock, and containing hones of St. Mat¬ thew and St. Lubentius, as it is re¬ ported. Limburg Stat. {Inns: Nassauer Ilof; Deutscher Hof; Preussischer Hof), a very ancient town on the Lahn. The superb Cathedral of St. George , with its 5 towers, rises pre-eminently above the other buildings. A ch. was built here 909, but the existing edifice is not older than 1213-42. Its architecture is particularly interesting, as it ex¬ hibits the latest character of the Byzantine style, mixed with the com¬ mencement of the Pointed Gothic. It contains several monuments of princes of Nassau, one of the Emp. Conrad I. (the founder, d. 918), and a very old font, but is sadly disfigured by white¬ wash. The views of the winding Lahn from this church and from the picturesque bridge, and that of the church itself, from a mill on the bank of the river, are very fine. The MS. called Lim¬ burg Chronicle is one of the oldest sources of German history. A boat may be hired at Limburg to descend the river to Ems and Coblenz. Limburg is con¬ nected by good macadamised roads with Frankfurt, 8T Germ. m. (lttc. 47); and Wiesbaden, 6 Germ. m. Nieder- Selters is about 9 m. off. [About 5 m. from Limburg is Montabaur {Inn: Weisses Ross), a very picturesque town ; its old castle, originally belonging to the Elector of Treves is now a R. C. seminary.] The Lahn between Limburg and Ems is very picturesque. Dietz Stat. ( Inns: Hof von Holland, good and clean; Adler) is romantically situated on the Lahn, which is crossed by a bridge 600 years old, overlooked by the castle of its ancient counts, of Nassau-Dietz, built on the summit of a rock, now the principal prison of Nassau. Not far off is Oranienstein , a chateau of the D. of Nassau, not inhabited nor remarkable. The Lahn is not unlike the Wye, though at first the scenery exhibits a sameness of beauty, the hills on both sides being covered with wood, and not distinguished by much variety of shape; but the numerous villages and ruined castles on its banks contribute to em¬ bellish the views. A few miles below Dietz is the mineral spring of Fachingen Stat. on the 1., and, about as far again lower down, Geilnau on the rt. bank of the Lahn. Many thou¬ sand bottles of the water are exported annually: it is very like that of Sellers. At a little distance from the Lahn, on its 1. bank, half-way between Fachin¬ gen and Geilnau, arc the castles of Balduinstein Stat., built 1325, by a bishop of Treves, the most interesting object on the road; and Schaumburg, once the residence of the princes of Anhalt-Bernburg, extinct since 1812, now belonging to the Archduke Stephen. A mile beyond Geilnau, and about 14 from Ems, is Holzappel {Inn, Bar), a small and uninteresting town, sur¬ rounded by fine mountains. Not far from it, close to the river, stand the ruins of the castle of Laurenburg Stat., the original resi¬ dence of the Nassau family, who boro the name of Counts of Laurenburg down to the middle of the 12th cent. rt. Further on are the village of Obernliof, and the small but very per¬ fect old castle of Langenau, with its walls, gates, towers, and external for¬ tifications complete, but filled with vile modern buildings, seated on a flat which seems to have been once an island. 1. The Abbey of Arnstein, standing conspicuous on the side of a mountain, opposite Langenau, presents a many- windowed picturesque front to’ the gaze of the passenger. It was the feudal seat of a long line of counts, the last of whom, Louis of Arnstein, having no son, married and portioned off his 7 daughters, dividing among them a part of his estates; then converting his castle into a convent, he endowed it with the rest of his property, and finally became a monk himself. It is now a Nassau . ROUTE 97. —THE TAUNUS MOUNTAINS. 531 Penitentiary for Rom. Cath. Priests! There are no remains of the original castle. The Church is entire; its 2 towers date from 1359. When the Lahn is low, it is fordable opposite to Arnstein; at other times those who come from Nassau must cross by the ferry at Obernhof, higher up. Nassau Stat.\ /T ), EmsStat. } ( Kte ' 95 >’ The Rhine is crossed by a bridge to Coblenz Station. ROUTE 97. THE TAUNUS MOUNTAINS, FROM WIES¬ BADEN TO FRANKFURT, BY EPPSTEIN, KONIGSTEIN, SODEN, AND IIOMBURG. The E. extremity of the Taunus chain of hills, though little known to English tourists, will w r ell repay those who may be tempted to explore it. The district here referred to might be nearly included within a triangle drawn between the towns of Wiesbaden, Frankfurt, and Homburg. This part of the chain presents in its narrow pas¬ toral valleys, clear purling streams, and wooded heights, scenery of the utmost beauty, differing from that nearer to the Rhine in its character of sylvan solitude, and perhaps surpassing it in variety. The post road from Wiesbaden to Frankfurt passes considerably to the S. of these hills; but that from Frankfurt to Limburg crosses them. There is a carriage road direct from Wiesbaden to Konigstein through Eppstcin, though it is bad in some places, as between Nau- roth and Brcmthal, after wet weather. Plan of a Carriage Tour from Homburg. To Konigstein 2 hrs. (visit Konigstein Schloss and Falkenstein) ; through the valleys of Fischbach, Eppstein, and Lorsbach, returning to Konigstein, un- der the hills by Soden, in about 3 lirs.; or, instead of returning by Soden, you may continue on to Wiesbaden. The whole way good (though not post) road. Pedestrians may explore the finest parts of this fertile and picturesque hill-country district in 2 days, by adopt¬ ing the following course. Take the Taunus Bailway (Rte. 99) to Ilat- tersheim Stat., walk thence to Hofhcim (2 m.), ascend to the chapel (^ hr/s walk) to Eppstein (5 m.), visit the castle;—to Konigstein (5 m.). In the evening explore the castle, and Falken¬ stein. Early next morning ascend the less and greater Fcldberg (5 m.), then walk to the Altkdnig (4 m.), back to Konigstein (4 m.), dine there. In the afternoon take the diligence to Soden, whence a branch railway runs tollochst. (Rte. 99.) At Hattcrsheim (Nassauer Hof) a tolerable country road, but destitute of shade, txu'ns off to the N.W., and leads to the pretty village of Hofheim (2 m.). The chapel on the height commands a view which will well repay the trouble of ascending to it. The valley of Lors¬ bach, above Hofheim, as far as Epp¬ stcin (5 m.), is very beautiful indeed. Eppstein (/wn, The Oil Mill), de¬ lightfully situated at the junction of 4 valleys. The wild and sequestered village is wedged in a narrow defile between rocks and mountains. The massy towers and donjons of the old baronial castle , perched like an eagle’s nest on the most accessible point of rock, overhang it. The family of Eppstcin seems nearly as old as that of Nassau; many of its members were chancellors of the em¬ pire and archbishops of Mayence. One of them crowned the Empr. Fredk. Barbarossa, at Aix-la-Chapelle, and afterwards was made Patriarch of Jeru¬ salem. The line became extinct in the 16th cent.: several of their monuments still exist in the village Church. The Castle now belongs to a gentleman of taste and knowledge of antiquities, who takes care of it, and has planted the little terraces with flowers, and made every part accessible. The castle is cut 2 A 2 532 ROUTE 97. —KONIGSTEIN. HOMBURG. Sect. VIII. off from the mountain by a deep dry trench, evidently artificial. Konigstein is about 6 m. N.E. from Eppstein; the way thither lies through the pretty vale of Fischbach. “ The whole landscape, the hanging woods, variously tinted by autumn, the jutting rocks, the sombre sequestered recesses in the glen, and the lonely stillness which pervaded the scene, sometimes reminded one of some of the least wild of Salvator’s romantic scenes, or of the cool and lovely valleys of Gaspar Pous¬ sin .”—Autumn near the Rhine. From Fischbach to Schneidhain the way lies across the open table-land—thence it ascends to Konigstein. — Inns : Post, or Stadt Amsterdam, good; the landlord has a trout stream : Lowe (Lion), which has a garden attached to it. This village is a post station on the high road from Frankfurt to Limburg. Above it, on the height, rises the ruined Castle of Konigstein, a modern fortress with bastions and casemates, engrafted on a feudal stronghold of the middle ages, with battlements and watch-towers. It belonged originally to the Counts of Falkenstein, and afterwards to the Barons of Eppstein; was taken by Gustavus Adolphus in the Thirty Years’ War, and by the French, who dis¬ mantled it and blew up its works in 1796. There is a fine view from it over the valleys of the Main and Bhine, while the neighbouring castles of Falk- enstein and Kronberg are most pic¬ turesque objects in the foreground. It is an agreeable walk hence to the Castle of Falkenstein , about a mile N.E. from Konigstein. This bold and picturesque ruin is an imposing relic of e feudal stronghold and baronial resi¬ dence of the days of chivalry, and the exquisite view from it renders it one of the most interesting points of the tour. It was the cradle (Stammhaus) of a noble family named Kurin gen, before it was added to the possessions of the house of Nassau. An excellent carriage-road goes from Konigstein to Soden, whence there is a branch railway to the Hochst station on the Frankfurt and Mayence Railway. 3 m. S.E. of Konigstein lies the water¬ ing-place of Soden ( Inns: Europaischer Hof, good and moderate ; Hotel Franz), well provided with lodging-houses: brine springs rise near it. Here is a handsome Kursaal with garden and pleasure-grounds attached, and many villas of Frankfurters in the neighbour¬ hood. There is a good road down the hill from Konigstein eastward to Kron¬ berg, 2 m., a village of about 1400 Inhab., prettily situated, surrounded by orchards and nursery gardens. Here is another ruined Castle; its owners, a knightly family, were engaged in con¬ stant feuds with the city of Frankfurt. Soden is 30 min. by rail from Frank¬ furt. By hiring a carriage here yon may explore Konigstein, Eppstein, Fisch¬ bach, and Lorsbach, in a few hours’ drive, and return by rail in the evening to Frankfurt. The Great Feldberg, the highest of the Taunus mountains, rises imme¬ diately to the N. of Falkenstein and Kronberg. The summit, 2600 ft. above the sea, is accessible for carriages, and is about 3 m. distant. It commands one of the most extensive panoramic views to be met with in N. Germany, including the Bhine and Main, the great cities and towns on their banks as far as Strasburg, whose spire is said to be visible in clear weather, and the mountain ranges of the Black Forest, Yosges, Mont Tonnerre, Odenwald, and Taunus. A huge fragment of quartz rock at the top of the Feldberg is called Bi’unc- hilda’s bed, from a tradition that a beautiful Frankish queen of that name took refuge here from her enemies. Upon the Altkonig (2400 ft.), the near¬ est neighbour S.E. and the mountain next in height to the Feldberg, are the remains of ancient entrenchments, of unknown origin, composed of vast heaps of stones piled up in circles. There is a direct road from Kronberg to Frankfurt; but the journey may bo agreeably extended by continuing on¬ wards through a pretty country to Ober- Ursel , where the old church is curious, and thence to Homburg. — Inns : H. Quatre Sai- sons, table-d’hote at 5; II. Bellevue, overlooking the gardens, satisfactory; Nassau. ROUTE 97. —HOMBURG. 533 II. do Russie; Europaischer Hof, good table-d’hote ; H. d’Angleterre, well stiuated; Hessisclier Hof, moderate. 2nd class Inns : Goldener Adler, plain, but clean and moderate ; Engel; H. de Frankfurt. The rent of good lodgings in good situations varies from 50 to 60 florins per week for 3 or 4 rooms; and for large apart¬ ments 80 to 100 fl. are charged, and from 5 to 7 fl. for a single bedroom, from June to Sept. House-rent has risen considerably. The newest and best houses arc on the Promenade. Ilomburg, a small town of 3500 Inhab., prettily situated on an eminence in the midst of cultivation, and half sur¬ rounded by projections fromthe'Taunus, consists of a long main street, chiefly of new houses, on one side of which are the wells and Kursaal , and on the other at the end the gloomy Schloss. The discovery of Mineral Springs , partly by boring Artesian wells, has converted Homburg, since 1844, into a frequented watering-place. The waters arc very valuable in cases of disordered liver and stomach. There arc 5 springs: that of Elizabeth , compared with the Rakoczy at Kissingcn, contains more carbonic acid than any other saline spa known, and on that account sits lightly on the dyspeptic stomach; the Stahl- brunnen , like the ferruginous water of Spa; Kaiserbrunnen , similar to the Carlsbad water; Bade quelle, a salt spring like that of Krcuznach; and Ludwigs - brunnen. Dr. Lewis is the resident English physician. On the reputation of these waters some French speculators have built, at a cost of 20,000/., a Kurhaus , one of the most splendid in Germany, decorated internally with frescoes, &c., by artists from Munich. It contains halls, dining (table-d’hote at 2 and 5), coffee, and smoking rooms; also a reading room , where English and foreign papers and periodicals arc taken in. The real de¬ stination of the building is as a gaming¬ house, that disgrace to the minor princes of Germany, and it furnishes the chief source of revenue to the state of Hesse Homburg. Let those who are disposed to risk their money inquire what is the character of the managers, and be on their guard. The expenses of such an enormous and splendid establishment amount to 10,000/. a year, and the shares have for some years paid a hand¬ some dividend, the whole of which must be paid out of the pockets of tra¬ vellers and visitors. It is only fair to observe that an admirable band, pro¬ vided by the managers, plays thrice a day on the walks, and that the estab¬ lishment affords great accommodation to strangers. The chief building is the gloomy Palace of the Prince of Hesse Homburg, or Schloss. Its most conspicuous feature is a lofty detached tower in the prin¬ cipal comb, resembling an old Scotch castle, a remnant of a former building. Over the inner gateway peers forth an equestrian figure of Prince Frederick of Hesse, who by a bold charge decided the victory of Fchrbellinn over the Swedes for the Great Elector of Brandenburg. It contains a collection of Roman an¬ tiquities dug up on the Saalburg, 3 m. off. The gardens immediately attached to the castle were laid out in the style of English pleasure-grounds by the late Landgravine Elizabeth (daughter of George III.), but are neglected. Between these and the foot of the Taunus extends a long avenue of fine Lombardy poplars. Beyond this lies the Park , and on the slopes of the hills are many pleasant walks and drives cut through the woods which clothe the sides of the Taunus. The only manufacture is that of black stockings; articles in very great request, no doubt, b 3 r the gentlemen who most numerously resort hither every summer, 5 m. N. is the Saalburg ruins of a Roman station, a member of the great line of defence — “ Limes Imperii Romani ”—raised against incursions of the Germans by Drusus, and strength¬ ened by Germanicus. It is reduced to the foundations of a wall 705 ft. long by 465 ft. wide, surrounded by a double fosse. The salt-works of Nauheim , with the interesting boiling fountain, are distant IThr.’s drive N.E. from Homburg. The road runs through Fricdbcrg. (See Rte. 70.) English Church Service every Sunday. 534 ii. 98, 99.— bingen to mayence and frankfurt. Sect. VIII. Homburg is 9 m. from Frankfurt, Rte. 95. A Railway —8 or 10 trains run daily to and fro. The Bonames Stat. of the Rhine-Weser Illy, is 3 m. distant. ROUTE 98. BINGEN TO MAYENCE, BY INGELHEIM. 3^ Germ. m. = 16 Eng. m. There are 2 railways from Bingen to Mayence ; one along the rt. hank of the Rhine, the most interesting, de¬ scribed in Rte. 38; and the following, on the 1. bank, but at some distance from the river side. On quitting Bingen Stat. it skirts the base of the Rochusberg, but soon di¬ verges from the borders of the river. On the post-road stands a small obelisk erected by the French, bearing the inscription, “Route de Charle¬ magne, terminee cn l’an I. du regne de Napoleon.” From this point, and from the heights a little further on, the view is most charming, extending over the Rhine, through the whole of the Rhein- gau, as far as the distant range of the Taunus. In such a situation it was that Charlemagne built his favourite residence of Ingelheim Stat., now reduced to a miserable village, about 1^ m. from the bank of the Rhine. Charlemagne loved to dwell here, and built himself (768 to 774) a magnificent palace, winch he decorated with 100 columns of marble and porphyry,the spoilsof Romanbuild- ings, and with rich mosaics, sent to him by Cope Hadrian from Ravenna for that pm-pose. The site of the edifice is now occupied by mud hovels and dung- heaps, and partly by a Jews’ burying- ground. It stood near the smaller of the two churches—the one nearest to Mayence; and the only relics remain¬ ing of it are a few mutilated fragments of pillars within the church, and a column of granite inserted in a corner ot an old ruined gateway. In the church is also shown the monument ui one of Charlemagne’s 4 queens, a rudely carved stone, on which a female figure, crowned and in regal attire, is discernible. The ornaments round the stone in the pointed style indicate clearly that it is of a much later time than the reign of Charlemagne. The red wine of Ingelheim is very tolerable. Budenheim Stat. Mombach Stat., opposite Bieberich. The railway now returns to the Rhine, and runs by its side, and through the fortications to 2 Mayence Stat. (Rte. 38). ROUTE 99. MAYENCE TO FRANKFURT.—RAILWAYS BY THE RIGHT AND LEFT BANK OF THE MAINE. 4tj Germ. m. = 2 Of Eng. m. The Railroad along the rt. bank of the Maine, or Taunus-Bahn , was opened in 1810. The Terminus is in Castel, opposite to Mayence, on the rt. bank of the Rhine. {Inn, Barth’s.) Omnibuses ply to and fro for 12 kr. £The branch line to Wiesbaden (6 trains daily, in 16 min.) is carried through the fortifications of Castel, passing fort Montebello to Mosbach Stat., whence a branch lino leads to Bieberich on the Rhino, j Trains go 6 times a-day in 1 hr. to Frankfurt. A bridge-toll (bruckengeld) of 30 kr. is paid for a carriage with 2 horses, in crossing the bridge of boats from Mayence to Castel. Castel belongs to Hesse Darmstadt; but a little Avay out of the walls 2 painted posts, by the road-side, mark the frontier of Nassau. The railway is carried at first along the rt. bank of the Main, along the slope of the vineyards. About 4 m. on the road is Hochheim Stat., a village on the summit of a hill of moderate elevation. In its immediate vicinity, and along the sunny banks sloping down to the Main, for a space of 3 m., are the vine¬ yards which produce the wine called Hod;, — a name improperly given by the English to Rhenish wines. The Nassau . k. 99 a.'—mayence to darmstadt. 100 . —the naiie. 535 Lest wine is grown in the vineyards below the church, which are sheltered from cold winds by the houses of the town. They were anciently the pro¬ perty of the Chapter of Mayence, but now belong to the Duke of Nassau, and are highly valuable. The narrow strip of ground upon which the railway passes through them was very costly. Florsheim Stat. 2^ Ifattcrsheim Stat. (Nassauer Ilof); a starting-place for an excursion to the Taunus Mountains (Etc. 97). Hochst Junct. Stat., on the Nidda, which is crossed by a bridge. The chief building in it is the deserted Palace of the Elector of Mainz, now property of Bolongaro, a rich tobacconist, erected in the last cent. At Hochst there is a very old Church. Branch Railway from this to Soden (3 m.) at the foot of the Taunus, and diligence thence to Konigstein. (Ete. 97.) The Feldberg, the highest of the range, and the Castle of Falken- stcin at its foot, are visible near this. The boundary of the territory of Frank¬ furt is marked by an ancient watch- tower on the post-road to the 1. 2 Frankfurt-a-M. (Etc. 95.) Ter¬ minus , outside the St. Gallus Thor, between the Weser Blv. on the 1., and the Neckar Ely. on rt. The Hessian-Ludwig Railway , com¬ pleted 18(52, has its terminus in May¬ ence itself, on the 1. bank of the Ehine; and the trains (daily in 1 hr. to Frank¬ furt) cross the Maine at once by a permanent iron bridge to Bischofsheim Stat. (see Ete. 99 a.), where the line to Darmstadt branches rt. Thence by Eiisselsheim, Keltersbach, Schwanheim, and Forsthaus Stats., it reaches Frank- furt-on-the-Maino (Etc. 95.) EOUTE 99 a. 5IAYENCE TO DARMSTADT AND ASCHAF- FENBURG.—RAILWAY. 7 trains to Darmstadt in 1 hr. ; to Aschaffenburg in 2 to 3 hrs., 5 trains. Mayence Terminus. (Ete. 38.) A permament bridge of iron lattice, 1212 ft. long, of 4 great spans, and 16 smaller land arches, constructed 1862, carries the railway across the Ehine from Mayence to the Mainspitz, or tongue ot land between Maine and Ehine. On it are remains of a star fort erected by Gustavus Adolphus, not far from a modern bomb-proof fort, which commands both rivers. Eischofsheim Junct. Stat., over a flat and uninteresting country 1. the Ely. to Frankfurt. Nauheim Stat. Gross-Gerau. Darmstadt Stat. (Ete. 105.) Babenhausen Stat. Aschaffenburg Stat ., on the Maine. (Sec Handbook of South Germany.) EOUTE 100. THE VALE OF THE NAHE.—BINGEN TO KREUZNACII AND SAARBRuCK. 19| Germ. in. = 91 Eng. m. Rail - icay (Ehein-Nahe-Bahn) opened to Kreuznaeh 1858 ; to Saarbriicken 1860. Trains in 4f hrs. Terminus on the 1. bank of the Nahe, close to the Elienish Ely. Stat. of Bingerbriick, about 2 m. below from Bingen. The most beautiful scenery of the Nahe is confined to the vicinity of Kreuznaeh and Oberstein. The Nahe pours itself into the Ehine at Bingen, through a portal formed by the Bochusberg on the rt. side, and the Bupertsberg on the 1., after a course of scarcely 60 m., during which it bathes the territories of 5 different sovereigns—Oldenburg, Hesse Homburg, Prussia, Bavaria, and Hesse Darmstadt. The railroad runs along the 1. bank of the Nahe, which is Prussian; the rt. belongs to Darmstadt: it passes the viUages of Munster, Laubenheim, and Brezenheim, before it reaches 2 Kreuznaeh Stat. (Anns.- Pfalzer Hof, next the Post-office ; Adler ; both in the town ; — Berliner Hof, near the I Bath Island ;— Boarding houses or Hotels for persons taking the waters, Oranien- hof, Englischer Hof, Iihein- stein, Kauzenburg, Hollandischer Hof), a thriving town 10,000 Inhab., belong¬ ing to Prussia, in a picturesque situa¬ tion, which has risen into great repute as a watering-place since 1840, on 536 ROUTE 100. —KREUZNACH. EBERNBURG. ' Sect. VIII. account of its mineral waters, which, contain iodine, and especially bromine, in larger proportions than any other known, and are singularly efficacious in female complaints, and in cases of scrofula. The number of visitors already exceeds 5000 annually. The springs rise in and near an island in the Nahe, close to the bridge. Here stands the Kurhaus, or assembly and reading rooms, around which invalids collect morning and evening, to drink the water of tho Elizabeth Brunnen , under the shade of acacias and poplars. Here are also Brine Baths , the brine (Mullerlaugc) being used sometimes with the mineral water combined. The ruined choir of the Church , near the bridge, is picturesque and of a good style (date 1332). It has been fitted up for the English Service. A good view of Kreuznach may be had from the pleasure-ground on the top of the Schlossberg, rising on the 1. bank of the Nahe, and crowned by the ruined castle of Kauzenberg, which belonged to the Princes of Sponheim from the 13th to the 15th cent., and afterwards to the Electors Palatine. In 1632 Kreuznach was taken by assault by the troops of Gustavus Adolphus. A party of English volun¬ teers serving under him was most in¬ strumental in its capture. The attack was led by Lord Craven, the champion of the Queen of Bohemia; and not only he, but every English officer present, was wounded on this occasion. Bookseller. —Voightlander, has also a Beading Boom , with English papers. Physicians. — Dr. Engelman speaks English, &c. The stranger should walk or drive to the Gans, to Bheingrafcnstein (1J hr.), and to Ebernburg. Dhaun Castle is 1 hr. by rly. See below. There is a carriage-road to the top of the Bheingrafenstein , on the rt. bank of the Nahe, which commands a fine view up the river, and may be reached in Jr an hour’s time. The Ely. on quitting Kreuznach stat. crosses the Nalie, passing in sight of The Salinen , or Saltworks, of Tlieo- dorshalle, 1 m. above Kreuznach ; and ! on the rt. bank those of Karlshalle, be- i longing to the Grand Duke of Darm¬ stadt. They consist of a collection of very long sheds, filled with faggots, through which the salt water is made to trickle, after being raised by pumps, in order to evaporate it, and convert it into saturated brine, fit for the boiling- house. The springs naturally contain but 1^ per cent, of saline particles, which require to be raised to 18 per cent, to convert it into saturated brine. Miinster-am-Stein Stat. (3 m. from Kreuznach) is another extensive salt- work belonging to Prussia, built on a flat, nearly encircled by the Nahe, at the foot of the magnificent precipice of red porphyry, 420 ft. high, which is crowned by the Castle of Bheingrafcn- stein , an ancient stronghold of the Bheingraves, destroyed by the Erench in 1689. It is literally perched, like an eagle’s nest, on a pinnacle of the rock, and is accessible from the salt¬ works by a ferry and a very steep foot¬ path, but more easily by descending upon it from the hill above. The modem chateau and farm-house have been built by the Prince of Solms- Braunfels. From a neighbouring and still higher peak, 1070 ft. above the Nahe, called the Gems (Goose), the best view over the Nahe is obtained. The rly. skirts the base of this pre¬ cipice. [A little above (j m. N.E. of) the Bheingrafcnstein, at the junction of the Alsenz with the Nahe, rises Ebernburg , a castle Avhich belonged to Franz of Siekingen, the last of the knights errant, the terror of "Worms and Frankfurt, who, though but a simple knight, besieged the cities of Metz and Treves with an army of 2000 horse and 17,000 foot, bidding defiance to the Emperor. In this stronghold he sheltered from persecu¬ tion many of the early Beformers, who were his bosom friends. Melanchthon, Bucer, and CEcolampadius, took refuge here under his roof; and Ulric von Hutten composed several of his works in this retreat. Its defences were so much augmented and strengthened, that it was thought capable of bidding Nassau. ROUTE 100. — OBERSTEIN. 537 defiance even to the armies of the em¬ pire. After Sickingen’s death, how¬ ever, his castle, though stoutly defended at first, was at length surrendered to the Electors of Hesse and of Treves, who carried off all the spoils, and then burnt it. The castle is turned into an Inn. The valley of the Alsenz con¬ tains some picturesque scenes and se¬ veral ruined castles. Near Obcr- moschel, an interesting place with fair Inn, is the quiclcsilvcr-mine of Landsberg, now unproductive. Be¬ tween Obermoschel and Meisscnheim there are coal-mines, which extend all the way from the Gian to the borders of the Alsenz; the quicksilver is also situated in the coal formation.] The rly. runs at the foot of the porphyry cliff of the Bothenfels, and through two tunnels. Waldbockelheim Stat. 2 m N. of this lie the Castle and Abbey of Spon- heim , the cradle of one of the noblest and most ancient families on the Rhine. 1. near Staudernheim Stat. (Inn: Sal- men) lie the extensive ruins of the convent of Dissibodenberg , founded by an Irish monk (Dissibodus), who preached the Gospel in this district in the 6th centy. A little below Sobernheim the Nahe receives the waters of the Gian. Sobernheim Stat. ( Inns: Post; Ad¬ ler), an old town, pop. 2300. In the 10th cent, the inhabitants, aided by the Pope, who granted them an indulgence for 2 years, built a bridge over the Nahe ; since then the river has changed its bed, and left the bridge on dry land. Monzingen Stat. Inn: Pflug. At Martinstein a basin-shaped valley opens out, at whose extremity rise the majestic ruins of the Castle of Dlxaun , commanding a fine view. A path leads down from them, past the village of Dhaun and Johannisberg, into the Nahe valley again, in about 4 m. to Kirn. Kirn Stat. Inn: Post. A little town, with a curious old Church (ta¬ bernacle, and monuments of Pfalz- graves). Above it rises the Castle of Kyrberg. The scenery of the vale of the Nahe from the Castle of Dhaun to Oberstein is magnificent. The Nahe has been bridged several times for the rly. before it reaches Oberstein Stat., at some distance from the town ( Inns: Ilcindls, on the rt. bank ; Post, on the 1. bank of the Nahe. Oberstein is one of the dirtiest small towns it is possible to conceive. “ It is very picturesque from its old ruined wooden buildings, and beautifully situ¬ ated on the Nahe, shut in by high and romantic cliffs, chief!}" of porphyry or amygdaloid, abounding in agates and crystals. The existence of these pro¬ bably gave rise to the importation of other half-precious stones, of finer quality, from the East Indies and Bra¬ zil, in the rough , which are here cut and polished. This business occupies a con¬ siderable number of the 3000 Inhab. The stones are ground and polished by means of grinding-stones of red sandstone, moved by water - wheels in numerous small mills scattered along the neighbouring streams. There are large polishing mills at Idar, m. off. Close to Oberstein are 2 fine precipitous isolated rocks. On the summit of each are remains of an ancient castle; one still in¬ habited by peasants, the other quite a ruin. Immediately under the latter, in the face of the precipice, about ] of its height above the valley, a large cavity has been hollowed out, in which the ancient Lutheran church may be said to be embedded.”— T. T. It is approached by stairs cut in the rock. The living rock forms the roof and one side of the building; the other side is built up with a wall of masonry, in which arc 2 large windows to light the interior. A spring of water gushes out of the floor. The locality is interesting to the mineralogist, as, in addition to very fine and large agates, the poi’phyry rocks here furnish many other rare minerals and crystals, as chabasite, harmotomo, &c. Oberstein belongs to the distant duchy of Oldenburg. The territory on the opposite side of the river for¬ merly belonged to Saxe Coburg, but has been sold to Prussia. The difficulties in making the rly. above Oberstein hereabouts were very 2 A 3 538 ROUTE lOOA.—SAARBRUCKEN TO TREVES. Sect. VIII. great: 20 bridges and 10 tunnels occur between Fischbacli and Birkcnfeld, and in several places tlie bed of tlie Nake has been turned. Kronweiler Stat. Birkcnfeld Stat. (Inn, Emmerich’s) is the chief town of the principality of that name, belonging to Oldenburg, and contains a plain whitewashed Ducal Chateau. The stat. is 3 m. from the town. [A hilly, but well macadamised road, provided with post-horses, leads over the bleak high land of the Ilochwald, from Birkcnfeld, by Hermeskeil, to Treves, about 32 Eng. m.j The summit level of the line is at Wallhause, whence it descends in the Vale of the Saar. St. Wendel. Stat. A fine Church here. Ottweiler Stat. Along tunnel. Neunkirchen Junct. Stat. Here the rly. to Mannheim (Ludwigshafcn) di¬ verges. (Rte. 103.) At Duttweiler, about 3 Eng. m. N. of Saarbrucken, is a seam of coal which has been on fire for 140 years. It is called “ dee brennende Berg.” Saarbrucken Station. (Inn : Zix’s), a Prussian town of 8000 Inhab. on the Saar, which here begins to be navigable, and is crossed by a bridge connecting the town with the su¬ burb of St. Johann. The Schloss was, down to 1793, the residence of the Princes of Nassau-Saarbrucken ; and in the Schlosshirche are some monu¬ ments of them. There are several coal¬ mines in the neighbourhood. About 2 m. S. of Saarbrucken, and higher up the valley of the Saar, is Arnual, with a fine Gothic church (1315), in which are some remarkable monuments of the Nassau-Saarbriicken family. Steamboats run daily between Saar¬ brucken and Saarlouis. Bailways to Metz in 2§ lis., and Paris in 12 hs.;—to Mannheim by Kaisers¬ lautern, Rte. 103;—to Treves, by Saar- burg. ROUTE 100 a. SAARBRUCKEN TO TREVES (SAARLOUIS.) 12 j Germ. m. = 56j Eng. m. Railway opened 1860. Trains in 2£ hrs. The railroad from Saarbrucken (see Etc. 100) to Treves descends the beau¬ tiful valley of the Saar, touching the stats. Louisenthal, Bouss, Ensdorf. Fraulautern Stat. [2 or 3 m. distant lies Saarlouis (Inns: Rheinischcr Ilof; Zwci Mohren), a strong frontier fortress of Prussia, with a long stone bridge over the Saar, which flows half round the town, and sometimes during the winter lays part of it under water. The fortifications, constructed by Yauban, in the course of 1 year, for a bet with Louis XIV., may be inun¬ dated by sluices. Its name ivas changed during the first French revo¬ lution to Sarrelibre. The Inhab. (7000) are partly descended from English prisoners placed here by Louis XIV. It is the birthplace of Marshal Ney, whose father’s house is marked by a tablet. By the peace of Ryswyk, France was left in possession of Saar¬ louis, but it was transferred to Prussia by the treaties of 1814-15.] Dillingen Stat. Merzig Stat. (Inn: Rheinischcr Hof). A long tunnel before reaching Mettlaclx Stat. (Inn: Saarstrom). The extensive buildings, a Benedictine ab¬ bey, founded in the 7th cent., are now a pottery. The ruins of a castle Mont¬ clair peer down upon the valley from an almost inaccessible cliff. About 3 m. before reaching Saarburg, high above the river and road, rises a cliff, partly excavated in chambers, called Castel , originally a Roman castle , hang¬ ing like a bird’s-nest against the face of the rock, repaired in 1838 by Fred. Wm. IV., King of Prussia, as a chapel in which to bury the remains of his ancestor King John of Bohemia, only ! son of the Emp. Henry VII., w r ho was killed in the battle of Crecy, 1346. At ; the village Nennig is a Roman villa, retaining fine Mosaic pavements, a ! combat of gladiators, &c. 1 Saarburg Station (Inn : Post), a Nassau. 539 ROUTE 101. —MAYENCE TO METZ. dirty and picturesque town of 2000 Inhab. on the slope of a hill on the Leuk, which in traversing it forms a cascade near the Post, just before join¬ ing the Saar. Above rise the pic¬ turesque ruins of a Castle which be¬ longed to the Elector of Treves. The Saar is crossed near its junction with the Moselle at Conz; date of bridge, 1782. Ausonius alludes to a very old one on this spot. “ Qua bis tenia fre- munt scopulosis ostia pilis.” Near here are scanty remains of a summer palace of the Lower Empire. The Monument of lyel is about 1^ m. from Conz. The rly. crosses the Moselle to reach the stat. on its 1. bank. 3 Treves Stat. (Rte. 41). ROUTE 101. MAYENCE TO METZ, BY KAISERSLAU¬ TERN, IIOMBURG [ZWEIBRUCKEN], SAARBRUCK, AND EORBACH—RAIL¬ WAY. By railway from May once to Ludwigs- hafen, Forbach, and Metz (ltte. 103), Paris may be reached in 18 lirs. by Alzei. In consequence this high road, made by the Emp. Napoleon, is seldom followed. The distance by it is 21^ Germ. m. and 7f French posts = 146 Eng. m. 1^ Niederolm. J 4 Worrstadt. lvj Alzei ( Inns : Darmstadter Hof; Poste; zum Iiaiser), a very ancient town (3500 Inhab.), known to the Ho¬ mans as Altiaia. The Castle , an ex¬ tensive ruin, was destroyed by the French in 1689. The road quits Hesse Darmstadt and enters Bavaria at the village of Morschheim. 1^ Kirchheim Boland (Inn, Poste), a town of 3200 Inhab., having iron¬ works in its vicinity. [The Mont Tonnerre (Donnersberg) is about 6 m. distant. The road leaves it on the rt., winding round its base. It is mentioned by Tacitus, who calls it Mans Jovis. During the French do¬ mination it gave the name to a De¬ partment, of which Mayenco was the chief town. The mountain is 2090 1 ar. ft. above the sea, and is composed of porphyry. The plateau at the top is planted with trees. It is en¬ circled by a wall, whose origin is un¬ known, though it is supposed to be Roman. The best view is obtained from the point called Hirtenfels, or from the signal tower which was erected for a trigonometrical survey, but it is not so fine as that from the Melibocus on the opposite side of the Rhine.] 14 Standebiihl. 2 m. E. of Dreisen lies Gbllheim (Inn, Hirsch), where the Empr. Adol¬ phus of Nassau was slain by the lance of his rival the Empr. Albert, 1298 ; a stone cross under an open chapel marks the spot. 2^ Sembach. The Ch. of Otterberg, a little to the N.W. of Sembach, is a beautiful Gothic structure, begun by the Empr. Conrad II., 1040, but com¬ pleted at a much later period. 14 Kaiserslautern Stat. (Inns : Don¬ nersberg, very good ; Baierischer Hof, dear ; Post), a town of 6500 Inhab., in a very pretty situation. Its antiquity is very great. The Empr. Barbarossa built a strong castle here, which was destroyed by the French in the War of the Suc¬ cession, and a prison now occupies its place. Three successive engagements took place near this in 1793-94, be¬ tween the French and Germans, in which the last gained some advantage. There are considerable woollen manu¬ factories here. Railway to Ilomburg, Mannheim, and Saarbriick, called the Pfalzer-Ludwigsbahn. Our road here strikes upon the railway from Mannheim to Saarbriick, Forbach, and the French frontier, now completed by Metz to Paris. (Rte. 103.) Eilwagen to Alzei. 2 Landstuhl Stat. (Inns: Engel; Baierische Krone; Post), a town of 1500 Inhab., which formerly belonged to the Counts of Sickingen, whose Castle in ruins overhangs the town ; its walls are 24 ft. thick, and many of its chambers are hewn out of the rock. The brave and chivalrous Franz of Sickingen, the Cid and Bayard of Germany, the friend of Luther and of Gotz of Berlichingen, lost his life ROUTE 102. —MAYENCE TO STRASBURG. Sect. VIII. 540 in it, in a bold struggle to defend it I from the besieging forces of his deadly and powerful enemies, the Bishop of Treves and the Elector of Hesse. His death was caused by a heavy beam de¬ tached by a cannon-ball from the roof, which fell on him and crushed him. He was buried under the altar of the Catholic church , where his monument, mutilated by the French, may still be seen. 1-i Bruchmulilbach Stat. id Homburg Junct. Stat. {Inn, Karls- berg), a town of 2840 Inhab., has a handsome church, built 1840. The for¬ tress upon the Schlossberg, celebrated in the history of the Thirty Years’ War, was razed 1714. Branch Ely. in ^ hour to 21 Zweibriicken ( French , Deux Fonts). — Inns : Post; Zweibriicker Hof. A town of 7300 Inhab., in a very picturesque situation, once the capital of the duchy of Zweibriicken, or Deux Pouts. The dukes resided in the Palace , partly destroyed by the French, and the remains are now con¬ verted into a Catholic cli. The name of this place is supposed to be derived from the two bridges leading across the river Erbach to the palace. The Principality was added to the crown of Sweden, on the accession to the throne of Charles Gustavus Duke of Deux Pouts, but fell by inheritance to the King of Bavaria, to whom it now belongs. The series of the Classics known as “ The Bipont Edition ” was printed here by a so¬ ciety of learned men in 1779.] 2 Rohrbach. A productive coalfield is reached at Bexbaeh Stat. and Neunkirchen Junct. Stat. Railway to Saarbrucken and Treves. At Renderich is the Bavarian frontier. 2 Saarbrucken Stat., Prussian. Rte. 100 . ]i Forbach Stat. is the first place within the French frontier. Railway from Forbach to Metz Stat. {Inns: II. le Jcune, good; II. des Yictoires) and Paris. See Handbook for France. ROUTE 102. THE RHINE(E). MAYENCE TO STRASBURG, BY WORMS, MANNHEIM, AND SPIRES. Railway on 1. bank to Ludwigshafen, opposite to Mannheim. 3 trains daily, in about 2 hours, while the steamer requires 5 or 6 hrs. Rly. from Ludwigs- haven to Strasburg by Ilagcnau, Rte. 104. Ely. from Mannheim to Kiel and Strasburg, on the rt. bank of the Rhine, preferable to that on 1. bank. The Rhine, above Mayence, loses all its beauty; the wide plain through which it flows, bounded by the very distant chains of the Yosges and Hardt on the W., and the Odenwald and Black Forest on the E., is as dull and nearly as flat as Holland. The river does not fall more than 22 ft. between Spires and Mannheim. The following route passes through the territory of Hesse as far as Worms, thence through Rhenish Bavaria to Mannheim ; it conducts the traveller to the ancient Imperial cities of Worms and Spires, so interesting in an histo¬ rical point of view, and so dull and desolate in their present state. Those who prefer pretty scenery should take the route by Darmstadt and the Berg- strasse (Rte. 105). "Whichever route is followed, the traveller should not omit to visit Heidelberg and Baden. Steamers ascend the Rhine from Mayence to Mannheim twice a-day, in G hrs., returning in 4. The river winds very much in this part of its course, and the ascending voyage is tedious and slow. Of late years many canals have been formed across the isthmuses created by the turns of the river, and thus its course is being shortened. Still it is prefer¬ able to travel upwards by railway, though the fares by rail are double those of the steamer. The E. bank of the Rhine, along which the railroad runs from Mayence, is at first a succession of gentle hills planted with profitable vineyards, the best among them being those of Lauben- heim Stat. and Bodenheim Stat. The soil of the low ground of the Rhine valley, all the way to Switzerland, is fertile in the extreme. Darmstadt. ROUTE 102. —OPPENHEIM. 541 1 . Hier stein Stat. [Inn, Anker), a small town of 2200 Inhab., gives its name to a very good second-class wine, produced in the surrounding vineyards. The Sironabad , near Nierstein, was known to the Romans: not far from it, at the Yellow House Inn , is a flying bridge over the Rhine. The Chapel of the family v. Herding is decorated with frescoes by Gotzenberger, a .mo¬ dern artist, representing the Adoration of the Shepherds—the Coronation of the Virgin — penitent Magdalen— Faith, Hope, and Charity. 24 1. Oppenheim Stat. Inn: Zum GelbenHause (theYellow House), men¬ tioned above, outside the town, tolerable. On a hill to the NAY. of this town (of 2400 Inhab.), under the stately ruins of the ancient Imperial Castle of Landskron , stands the Ch. of St. Catherine , a build¬ ing worthy to arrest the attention of all who pass this waj r . It is a pure ex¬ ample of the Gothic style, displaying at the same time the utmost richness of decoration consistent with elegance and propriety. The towers are in the style of the 12th cent. ; the nave and E. chancel, begun 1262 by Richard of Cornwall, Empr. of Germany, were completed in 1317 ; the W. chancel, now a ruin, in 1439. The nave is re¬ markable for its lightness and beauty ; the painted glass of the windows must have been splendid; in one of them it still remains nearly perfect. Some of them have a species of fan-shaped tra¬ cery. The rose window is one of the finest specimens in Germany, and most elaborate in its tracery. There are some curious monuments in the church of the Dalbergs and Riedesels, a family of the Wctterau, who bore asses’ ears for their crest; but, like the painted win¬ dows, they are sadly mutilated ; indeed it is melancholy to see what was once so fine a building, and still possesses so much beauty, fallen into such a state of decay and neglect. The roof of the nave is gone, and within its walls is a wilderness of grass and weeds. These injuries owe their origin to the French, who bimit down a part of the church during the war of the Palatinate. It has happily undergone some repair recently, at the expense of the town; its complete restoration is out of the question, as it has been left too long to go to decay, and the Grand Duke lends no assistance to the praiseworthy undertaking. A ruined chapel within the church¬ yard is half filled with the skulls and bones of Swedes and Spaniards, who fell here in battle, 1631, champions of the causes of Protestantism and Popery. rt. Gustavus Adolphus recorded his passage of the Rhine, in the winter of Dec. 7, 1631, by a monument on the rt. bank at Erfelden, a little above Oppenheim, but not seen from the steamer, which traverses an artificial cut. It consists of a pillar with a Hon on the top. The Swedes crossed the Rhine singing a psalm; and there is a tradition that their sovereign and leader was ferried over on a barn door. The field of battle still goes by the name of the Spaniards’ churchyard, from the number of bones found in it. The road now' quits the borders of the river, which winds exceedingly. A canal, cut across an isthmus formed by its bendings, saves the boatmen a circuit of several miles. rt. At Gernsheim [Inn, Lamm, Ivarpfen), on the rt. bank of the Rhine, a colossal statue of sandstone, 12 ft. high, of Peter Schbffer, the partner of Faust in the discovery of printing (1457), v r ho v r as born here, has been erected, and is fresh painted every year on his birthday ! Guntersblum Stat. (Pfalzer Hof), a town belonging to the Count v. Lciningen, who has a Schloss here. The election of an Empr. of Germany (1024), which ended in the choice of Conrad II. (the Salic), was held on the great plain between Oppenheim and Guntersblum : the various German races, who had a voice, encamped on either side of the Rhine, no city being large enough to hold them. Alshcim Stat. Mittenheim Stat. Osthofen Stat. 1. Immediately below "Worms, out¬ side the walls, though once in a flourish¬ ing suburb, utterly destroyed by the Swedes (1632) and French (1689), is the fine Gothic * Church of Our Lady (Licbe Frau), date 1467, restored 1863. 542 ROUTE 102. —THE RHINE. WORMS. Sect. VIII. On cacli side of its entrance are curious carvings representing the Wise and Foolish Virgins. It is situated within the vineyard which produces the plea¬ sant wine called after it Liebfrciuenmilch (our Lady’s milk). It is the property of Mr. P. J. Valckenberg, who resides in the old Capuchin Convent. The finest quality of wine is grown close to the ch. The steamer brings to off Worms; the town is about 1 m. dis¬ tant from the Rhine, which anciently washed its walls. It is partly concealed from view by trees. Inn on the Rhine, Rheinischer Hof, near the Crane. 1. 2| Worms St at. — Inns : Alter Kaiser, near the Dom; Rheinischer Hof, near the steamer’s landing-place, 1 m. from the town. 10,726 Inhab. (3500 Rom. Cath., 900 Jews) is the actual amount of the pop. of Worms, which once contained 40,000. It still retains its old Walls, flanked at intervals by handsome and massive towers, probably of the 13th cent. This once important Imperial Free City is still venerable even in its decay from historical associations connected with it, such as few other cities in Europe can boast of. It was called by the Romans Augusta Vangionum and Borbetomagus. In the times succeeding their dominion it was the residence of many Frankish and Carlovingian kings; Charlemagne himself was married here, and held, near "Worms, those rude legislative assemblies of the Franks, called, from the month in which they were con¬ voked, Mai Lager (Champs de Mai). Worms was the seat of many Diets of the German Empire : two of them are particularly important in the history of Europe; that of‘1495, which, by abolish¬ ing the right of private war (Faustrccht), first established order in Germany; and that of 1521, when Luther appeared before the young Empr., Charles V., and the assembled princes, to declare his adhesion to the Reformed doctrines, which the Diet finally declared to be heretical. Since the infamous burning and demolition of Worms by the incen ¬ diary Melac (1689), the ruffian instru¬ ment of Louis XIV. and Louvois, the city has never regained its prosperity. The only fine edifice in the town is the Domliirche or Cathedral; —a plain and massive Romanesque building of red sandstone, dedicated 1016 in the pre¬ sence of the Emp. Henry IV., though little probably remains of that age, as the ch. was consecrated anew in the 12th cent., and the E. apse is the only part now referable to the structure of 1110 , while the pointed arch makes its appearance in the W. end of the nave, It has 2 towers at each end, and within has 2 choirs and 2 high altars, one for the chapter, the other for the laity. The interior, 470 ft. long, has been re¬ paired in a very gaudy style. The side chapels date from the 14th and 15th cent. On the S. side is a magnificent pointed portal , whose sculptures deserve exa¬ mination, date 1472. In the Baptistery , close to the S. door L, are placed some very remarkable sculptures (date 1487), removed from the cloister, now de¬ stroyed: they represent, 1. the Annun¬ ciation ; 2. the Nativity; 3. the Genealo¬ gical Tree of the Virgin; 4. the Descent from the Cross; 5. the Resurrection. The traces of faded painting on the walls and piers are among the earliest productions of German art. Here are many gravestones, with figures in relief; the monument of Eberhard of Hep- pingen; akneeling figure is of good work. The red stone walls to the N. of the Dom are substructions of the ancient Bischofshof, destroyed by the French in 1689, and again in 1794. In it was held the diet of 1521, at which Luther appeared before Charles V. Some have incorrectly supposed that this event occurred in the Rathhaus, which stood where the Lutheran church now stands, in the market-place, and in which a poor picture representing the Diet is hung up. A grand Monument to Luther, a group of statues of his chief contemporaries, surround the great Reformer, raised on a lofty pedestal. The W. end and choir of St. Paul's Ch. are interesting for the antiquity and beauty of their architecture. They date probably from the year 1016 ; the rest of the church is recent. The Synagogue near the Mainz Gate is said to be more than 800 years old, and certainly displays in its structure Baden. ROUTE 102. — FKANKENTIIAL. LUDWIGSHAFEN - . the style of the 11th cent.: 2 doorways, and a circular building (Thora) for holding the books of the law, deserve the architect’s attention. The Jews have been established in this spot from a very early period, and enjoyed privi¬ leges denied them in most other parts of Germany. They have a very an¬ cient burial-ground like that at Prague (Judenldrchhof). The country round Worms was the favourite theme of the Minnesanger, who speak of it under the name ot Wonnegau (Land of Joy). It is partly the scene of the Nib elun genii ed ;* and the island facing the Rheinischer Hof is called Rosengarten , a name which often occurs in the Heldenbuch. Hear Pfiffligheim stands Luther’s Elm Tree , under which the reformer is re¬ ported to have reposed on his way to the Diet, when, in reply to the warn¬ ings of friends who wished to deter him, he said that ho “ would go to Worms, even though there were as many devils within its walls as there were tiles on its houses.” At Ilernshcim, about 2 m. out of the town, are the Chateau and Park of the Dalberg family, and a church of the 14th cent-., containing several of their monuments. N. B.—Travellers proceeding down the Rhine, and acquainted with its scenery between Mayence and Bingen, may vary their route in an agreeable manner, and avoid going twice over the same ground, by leaving the Rhine at Worms and proceeding through an in¬ teresting country by Alzei (Rte. 101), 3 Germ. m. to Kreuznach on the Nahe (Rte. 100), 3f Germ. m.—road excellent, but hilly. The beautiful scenery of the Nahe is described in Rte. 100: they should ascend it as far as Oberstein, and may then either return to the Rhine at Bingen, or proceed on by Birkenfeld to * Tliis fine old German poem was written towards the latter end of the 12th century, but ihe traditions ou which it is founded appear to have been handed down, probably in popular lays, from very lemote times, and to have been common to all the tribes (German, Saxon, and Scandinavian) of the Teutonic race. No less than 20 poems of the Edda, which, as it has been satisfactorily shown, must have been composed prior to the year 863, contain the same tragical story of the mythic-heroic per¬ sonages who figure in the Nibeluugen. 543 Treves, whence they may descend the Moselle to Coblenz. As far as Worms both hanks of the Rhine belong to Darmstadt. A few miles above it commence the territories of Baden on the rt. bank, and of Rhenish Bavaria on the 1., across which our road lies. The railroad passes— 1 . Frankenthal Stat. (Inn, Hotel Olto), originally a colony of Fle¬ mings, driven out of their country by religious persecution in 1562, who introduced manufactures not before known in Germany, and raised this small town by their industry to a state of great prosperity. It was held for some months in 1622-23 by the scanty English force under Sir Horace Yere, sent over by James I. to support the cause of his son-in-law the Elector Palatine : hut neither in number nor in the skill of their commander were they fit to cope with a veteran general like Spinola, to whom and his army of “ tough old blades” they were opposed, and they were accordingly obliged to surrender the town to the Spaniards It has now 5000 Inliab. A canal con¬ nects it with the Rhine 3 m. off. 21 . OggersheimStat. Tim, Pfalz er Hof. rt. The Neekar enters the Rhine about 4 in. below Mannheim. A bridge of boats over the Rhine leads into Mannheim from 1. Ludwigshafen, Juno. Stat. (Inn : Deutsches Haus, near the Stat.) A flourishing trading town, which has risen up since 1813 on the site of the Tete-du- Pont forming part of the outworks of Mannheim while it was a fortress. It was the scene of many fights during the war of the French Revolution, and in 1811 the Russian division of Gen. Sackcn here forced the passage of the Rhine. Railways connect Ludwigshafen with Forbach, Metz, and Paris, with Saar- briick and Homburg, also by Neustadt with Hagenau and Strasburg. There is a branch line to Spires. (Rte. 103.) Lnd- wigshafen was much injured by the guns of the Baden insurgent mob, June 1819. The landing-place of the steamer is just below the bridge of boats, f m. distant from Mannheim, near the bonding warehouses ( Fmhafen ), 544 ROUTE 102. —MANNTIEIM. Sect, VIII. a handsome building by Iliibsch, erected at the waterside. 1. Mannheim. Inns: H.del’Europe, close to the landing-place of the steamers, a large house with 100 bed-rooms, from 1 fl. upwards (servants 24 kr. daily). The hotels within the town are quite as good as this. La Cour du Palatinat (Pfalzer Hof), in the town, very good; Bheinischer Hof, small, hut good. The situation of this town, on the rt. hank of the Phine, and between it and the Neckar, is low. A high dyke pro¬ tects it from inundations. The Phine here, at 317 Eng. m. from the sea, is 1200 ft. in breadth. Mannheim was formerly the capital of the Palatinate, and has 26,900 Inhab. It has become a place of considerable trade since 1846. Nearly 300 English reside here, chiefly on account of the cheapness of living and of the agreeable society. It was once strongly fortified, and was in consequence several times ruined and twice literally reduced to ashes and levelled with the dust by sieges and bombardments—first in the Thirty Years’ War, afterwards by the French in the war of the Orleans succession. It did not exist as a town till after 1606, and, within a century, was twice rebuilt, after which it was again bom¬ barded by the French in 1794, and by the Austrians in 1795; indeed, from the first moment of its existence it ap¬ pears to have been an object of struggle. The French general who took the town in 1689 called the townspeople together and informed them that it was the un¬ alterable determination of his master, Louis le Grand, to raze Mannheim with the ground; hut, as a special favour, he would intrust the work of destruction to themselves, and would allow them 20 days to complete the work. As the inhabitants could not bring themselves to put into execution this diabolical sentence, the duty was performed by the soldiers, who drove out the lingering tenants, set fire to the houses, blew up the fortifications and churches. During the siege of 1795 half of the palace was burnt, and only 14 houses remained un¬ injured—26,000 cannon-balls and 1780 bombs were thrown. At length the French garrison of 9700 men surren¬ dered to General Wurmser. Fortunately for its future welfare it is now defenceless, owing to the removal of its ramparts. To the cause stated above the modern town owes its present rectangular and monotonous regularity. It consists of 11 straight streets, crossed by 10 other streets at right angles to them, and at equal distances. “The streets are not named, and the system by which houses are identified is so singular that it merits explanation. Each block of houses is distinguished in the following manner : The town is divided into two parts by the great street leading from the palace to the suspension bridge over the Necicar. The first row of blocks of houses parallel to this street, on each side, is numbered 1 ; the second row of blocks of houses on each side, parallel to the first, is numbered 2, and so on. But taking the blocks in cross rows, on one side of the above-mentioned great street, the row nearest to the palace is lettered A, the second B, and so on; and on the other side the street, the row nearest the palace is lettered L, the second M, and go on. Thus a letter and a figure are necessary to de¬ fine any block of houses. In each block the houses are numbered 1,2,3, &c. Thus, in looking in the Mannheim Directory for a person’s residence, you will find (for instance) C 3, 6. This means No. 6 in the block which is de¬ fined by the mark C 3. The letter C shows in which row of blocks it is as taken one way, and the figure 3 shows in which row of blocks it is as taken the other way.”— G. B. A. In the public squares are fountains which want only water to render them useful as well as ornamental; indeed, good water is scarce here. The town is remarkable for its cleanliness. Gbthe calls it “ Das freundliche, reinliehe Mannheim.” Mannheim does not possess many ob¬ jects of interest, and need not detain a traveller long. The principal building is the Palace , a huge structure of red sandstone, more remarkable for size than architecture, erected by the Elector Palatine Karl Philip, when he removed his court from Heidelberg and made Mannheim his capital (1720). A Theatre in one wing, Rhenish Bavaria. ROUTE 102. —SCHWETZINGEN. 545 which, was reduced to a mere shell by the Austrian bombardment, has been repaired and rebuilt. A part of the palace serves as a Museum to contain the Gallery of Paintings , the majority of which, except some speci¬ mens of the Dutch school, are very mediocre ; a Collection of Plaster Casts , and a Cabinet of Natural History , with some good specimens of minerals and fossils. The best part of all the Mann¬ heim collections were transferred to Munich in 1778. The Gardens behind the palace, end¬ ing in a raised terrace (Rheindamm) upon the brink of the Rhine, and the Planken , a broad street, planted with trees, between the Heidelberg and Rhine gates, are the promenades of the inhab. The private gardens along the banks of the Neckar are a great orna¬ ment to the outskirts of the town. A pretty chain bridge has been thrown across the Neckar. If we except the Jesuits' Church , which, after all, is not of first-rate archi¬ tecture, and, though imposing, is over¬ loaded with marble inside, there is no remarkable building here. The Theatre is on a good footing. The orchestra is not surpassed in this part of Germany. Here Schiller’s ‘ Robbers ’ was first brought out in 1782. Opposite the principal entrance to the theatre is the house of Kotzebue, where he was assassinated by the mad student Sand ; the victim and murderer are both buried in the Lutheran church¬ yard. Schiller lived on the Parade Platz, in the house called Zum Karlsberg. English Church Service on Sundays. The reading-room of the club called the Harmony , in the Planken, is thrown open to strangers properly introduced. A very agreeable lounge here is the establishment of Messrs. Artaria and Co., where all the productions of the fine arts and literature in Germany and Italy are to be met with, and a tourist can supply himself with all sorts of maps, views, &e., indispensable on a foreign journey. M. A. has a fine collection of original paintings. \_Schvoetzingen should be visited from Mannheim for the sake of the gardens, about 9 m, distant (1 hr. to Friedrichs- fcld Rly. Stat., f hr. thence in Eins- panner). Inns: Erb Prinz; Hirsch. It is a small town of 2500 Inhab. Its Chateau had been from early times a seat of the Electors Palatine, when the Elector Charles Theodore made it his summer residence in 1743, and em¬ ployed the 20 following years, and vast sums of money, in converting into an orna¬ mental garden a fiat sandy desert, in¬ debted to nature for no favour but the very distant prospect of a picturesque chain of hills. Those who desire to see all the sights here may prolong their walk for 2 or 3 hrs.; at any rate it is well to take a guide at the gate. The objcctsbestworthnoticc are the Mosque, the temples of Mercury and Apollo, the Bath, the Roman aqueduct, and the Temple of Pan. The vista looking over the great basin towards the Yosgcs Mountains has the pleasing effect of a natural diorama. The Gardens them¬ selves are perhaps the finest in Germany, laid out in the formal French style, carried to perfection by Le Notre at Versailles, with straight basins edged with stone, and ruffled by ever-spurting fountains, with prim parterres, peopled with statues, flanked by cropped hedges, and intersected by long avenues. They extend about 114 Eng. acres. The Botanic Garden , included within their circuit, contains a fine collection of Al¬ pine plants. The conservatories and the orangery are worth notice. The Chateau , originally a small hunt¬ ing-lodge, augmented from time to time by wings, orangeries, and other addi¬ tions to accommodate a court, is ho¬ noured with few and short visits from the reigning Grand Duke, and is not worth notice ; but the grounds are kept in good order, and well deserve a visit.] Omnibus from the Ludwigshafen Stat. on the 1. bank of the Rhine to the Frankfurt and Heidelberg Stat., a drive of 20 min. ; fare 22 krs.; also Droschkies. Railroads to Heidelberg, 15 Eng. m. Trains in 1 hr. to Baden and Strasburg; —to Frankfurt and Carlsruho (Rtc. 105);—from Ludwigshafen to Spires;— to Kaiserslautern, Homburg, Bexbach, and Saarbruckcn;—to Ilagenau and 546 ROUTE 102. —SPIRES. HISTORY. Sect. VIII. Strasburg;—to Metz and Paris in 1G hrs. (Etc. 103) ;—to Mainz. Steamers go several times a day to Mayence and Coblenz. There is no inducement to follow the Bliine above Mannheim, as Spires may now be visited by railway from Lud- wigshafen. The traveller going south¬ ward had better proceed by Heidelberg along the Baden railway. (Bte. 105.) Railway from Ludwigshafen to Spires , —trains in f hr. After leaving the stat. the Castle of Heidelberg is seen in the distance, under a red scar on the hill side of the Kaiserstuhl. Mutterstadt Stat. Scliifferstadt Junct. Stat. [Hero the branch railway to Spires diverges from the line which runs W. to Neustadt, to Kaiserslautern, and Bexbach. (Itte. 103.) 1. Spires (Germ. Speier) Stat .— Inns : Post ( Wittelsbacher Hof ) ; llheinischer Hof. This ancient and venerable city, one of the oldest, and originally one of the chief, cities in Germany, lies upon the 1. bank of the Bhine. Its population, which in the 14th cent, amounted to 27,000, is now reduced to 11,000 (3-5ths Protestants), and it is in all other respects a mere shadow of its former self. It received from the Homans the name Civitas Nemetum , or Noviomagus; but in their time it was only a fortified outpost on the Bhine to resist the attacks of the neighbouring Allemanni. Charlemagne, however, and the Emprs. of Germany who followed him, especially those of the Franconian and Swabian lines, made it their chosen place of residence and the scat of the Germanic Diet, bestow¬ ing upon it, at the same time, the pri¬ vileges of a Free City of the Empire , which made it the centre of a flourishing trade, and poured wealth into its walls. The Charter (Freibrief), conferred by Henry Y. in 1111, gave to its citizens a monopoly of the carrying trade up and down the Bhine, and entitled them to destroy any baronial castle which might be built within 3 Germ. m. of their gates—an enactment intended effectually to secure them from troublesome and rapacious neighbours, The history of Spires during the period of the middle ages is an alternate record of Imperial festivities and courtly show, and of scenes of tumult and violence within its walls, and deadly feuds and combats without. Its citizens, in those unquiet times, were as well versed in the use of arms as in the arts of trade. At one time they were called upon to issue from their walls in order to chastise the lawless rapacitjr of some feudal baron, who had waylaid their merchants and pillaged their property on the high road, and who often paid for his insolence by hav¬ ing his castle burnt about his ears and levelled with the ground; at another they were engaged in a quarrel with a neighbouring town, or in a feud with their bishop, or even with the Empr. himself. On several occasions armies of 20,000 men, composed of the levies of more than 100 different barons and towns, each marshalled under their own banners, in vain laid siege to Spires, being repulsed by the bravery of the citizens. Now and then fortune de¬ clared against them, and they suffered from the plundering inroads of hostile armies. In the 14th cent, the city maintained in its pay an army of knights and soldiers, to whom it partly intrusted its defence, and whom it engaged to fight its battles. At length the Imperial edict, which abolished the right of private war, in 1530, restored peace to Germany. The Imperial Chamber , Beichs-Kammer- gericht, by which its enactments were enforced, and all infringements of them punished, was established at Spires. This tribunal, the paramount court of appeal in Germany, existed here 200 years, until removed to Wetzlar 1689. The trade and prosperity of Spires began to decay in the 17th cent. ; but the final blow and the greatest injury was inflicted upon it by the atrocities of the French under Louis XIY., during the Orleans Succession War, called by the Germans “ Mordbrenner Krieg.” In 1689 the town was taken by the French, who shortly after issued a proclamation to the citizens, commanding them to quit it, with their wives and children, within the space of 6 days, and to be¬ take themselves into Alsace, Lorraine, or Burgundy, but upon pain of death lihenish Bavaria . route 102 . —spires, cathedral. not to cross the Rhine. To carry into execution this tyrannic edict, a provost- marshal, at the head of 40 assistant executioners, marched into the town ; they bore about them the emblems of their profession, in the shape of a gal¬ lows and wheel, embroidered on their dress. On the appointed day the miser¬ able inhabitants were driven out by beat of drum, like a flock of sheep. The French soldiers followed them, after having plundered everything in the de¬ serted town, which was then left to the tender mercies of executioners and in¬ cendiaries. In obedience to the com¬ mands of Montclair, tho French com¬ mander, trains of combustibles were laid in the houses and lighted, and in a few hours the seven-and-forty streets of Spires Avere in a blaze. The conflagra¬ tion lasted 3 days and 3 nights ; but the destruction of the town _ did not cease c\ r en Avith this. Miners Avere incessantly employed in bloAving up the houses, Avails, fountains, and convents, so that tho Avliole might be levelled with the dust and rendered uninhabitable. Tho Cathedral Avas dismantled, the graves of the Emprs. burst open and their re¬ mains scattered. For many years Spires lay a desolate heap of rubbish, until at last the impoverished inhabitants re¬ turned gradually to seek out the sites of their ancient dAvellings. Since that time tho toAvn, although rebuilt, has never raised its head. This, however, Avas not tho last of the calamities Avhich this ill-fated city Avas destined to endure and from foes of the same nation. In 1794 the revolution¬ ary army under Custine burst upon the town, and, after G different assaults, carried it by storm, and repeated all the wanton acts of atrocity and cruelty Avhich their predecessors had enacted a century before. Previous to the siege of 1683 tho town had 5 suburbs en¬ closed within ramparts, 13 gates, and 64 toAvers of defence provided with ar¬ tillery. After tAvice suffering desola¬ tion so complete, it can hardly be ex¬ pected to display many marks of its antiquity and former splendour in its buildings. From 1794 to 1822 the cathedral Avas desecrated and turned into a Avarehouse, In 1816, however, 547 Spires came into the possession of the crown of Bavaria, and it Avas once more fitted for divine service, by King Maxi¬ milian of Bavaria; and his successor, the present king, has restored it with a splendour only equalled by the modern churches of Munich : Avith some injury, hoAvever, to the antique cha¬ racter of the edifice. The **Dom or Cathedral , whose twin towers present a noble appearance from the Rhine, is almost the only edifice Avhich has bid defiance to the attempts to destroy it; the French undermined it, and tried to bloAV it up ; but the Axmerable structure remained unshaken by the explosion. In point of dimen¬ sions it is perhaps the most stupendous building in the Romanesque style ex¬ isting. The 2 tall, pointed towers and the semicircular termination at the E. end date from the 12th cent. : the crypt , under choir and transept, is pro¬ bably the only remaining portion of the original edifice, founded in 1027 by Conrad II. the Salic. The upper part of the church, as it hoav stands, arose after 1165, AA T hen a conflagration de¬ stined the earlier building. The Yv r . front, tower 225 ft. high, and the Porch (Kaisers Halle) under it, Avere re¬ built 1854-58, by Hlibsch—and modern statues of tho emperors interred hero have been placed in it. All that Avas consumable in the W. end, cupola, naA’O, and choir, Avas burnt by the French, 1689, although they had promised to respect the building, and had thereby induced the citizens to fill it with their A r aluable goods and chattels, which, after being plundered by the spoilers, served as fuel to assist in consuming it. Tho interior, originally severe in style of architecture and Avithout orna¬ ment, has been decorated with frescoes by artists of the modern German school, including 30 large compositions by Joh. Schraudolph. The Aviclth and height (105 ft.) of the naA’C strike the beholder. The ch. is 474 ft. long. In the King’s choir, betAveen the naA r e and transept (or hauptchor), is the Imperial Vault , in Avhich 8 Emperors of Germany Avere buried; among them Henry III., IV., and V., Rudolph of Habsburg, Adolph of Nassau, and Albert of Austria, Since 548 ROUTE 102. —SPIRES. PHILTPSBURG. Sect. VIII. their graves were sacrilegiously broken open and plundered by the French in 1689 and 1794, it is difficult to say who remains behind. The Empr. Charles VI., the last of the male line of Habsburg, caused search to be made for the bones of his ancestors; some were found and rein- terred, but to whom they belonged was not ascertained. The Duke of Nassau has raised to his ancestor Adolph a modern monument by Ohmacht; it con¬ sists of a kneeling figure of the Em¬ peror in armour, on a Byzantine sar¬ cophagus of black Nassau marble. A statue of Rudolph of Habsburg has been erected by King Lewis of Bavaria; executed by Schwanthaler of Munich. The 32 frescoes of scriptural and legendary subjects by Schraudolph and his scholars, covering the walls of choir and nave, are among the finest modern works in Germany. The Crypt , under the choir, supported by short massy columns, deserves a visit. Traces of the mines formed by the French in their ineffectual attempt to blow up the building may still be perceived here; and here is placed the original gravestone of Rudolph of Habsburg, bearing his effigy care¬ fully copied from the life. The font dates from the 9 th or 10th cent. In the Sacristy are a set of priest’s robes of the 14th cent., beauti¬ fully embroidered with subjects from Scripture, figures of the apostles, &c.; they were brought from Aschaffen- burg. The treasures of the sacristy dis¬ appeared at the Revolution. In the Chapel of St. Afra, of which a beautiful fragment exists on the N. side of the building, the remains of the Empr. Henry IV. were laid by his faithful subjects, the citizens of 'Worms, and remained 5 years unburied, until the removal of the papal ban of excom¬ munication opened for him the Imperial vault. The Dom is surrounded by agreeable pleasure-grounds extending down to the Rhine; on the S. side is the Oelberg, an emblematical repre¬ sentation of the Mt. of Olives in stone, date 1441. Under the trees is a rude vase of sandstone (the Dornnapf ), which every new bishop, after pledging him¬ self to respect the liberties of the citi- | zens, was bound to fill with wine for j them to drink. In the Hall of Antiquities , an open hall, N.E. side of the Dom, are de¬ posited Roman remains found in Rhenish Bavaria, chiefly at Rheinza- born; pottery, with the moulds in which they were shaped, bas-reliefs in stone and terra-cotta, glass vessels, lmnps, votive tablets, spear-heads, sword-blades, a bronze statue of Mcr- cury, and the eagle of a Roman legion. Also, some mediaeval antiquities—a mutilated sculpt me of the Mount of Olives, with scenes from the Passion; Gothic tracery and foliage in sandstone (1411), formerly in the cloisters. The broad Maximilian Strasse extends W. from the Dom to the Alt Portal , an almost solitary relic of the old imperial city. A ruined and unsightly wall, near the Protestant church (built 1717), is the only remaining relic of the Betscher , or Imperial palace, in which 29 Diets were held. It will be remembered that the “ protest ” of the reformed princes and cities against the decree of the Diet held here in 1529 gave rise to the name of Protestant. There arc pleasant walks round the town. A good road leads to Landau, and the Castle of Trifels , the prison of Richard Coeur-de-Lion, described in Rte. 104.] Following the Rhine, above Spires, we pass (rt.) Philipsburg, named after Philip von Sotern, Archbp. of Spires, who founded it at the beginning of the Thirty Years’ War; it was formerly a fortress of the empire, and makes an important figure in the campaigns of Turennc. Its works were razed in 1800. Marshal Berwick was killed under its walls, 1734. Large and un¬ wholesome morasses, below the level of the Rhine, overspread the country about 2 1. Germersheim. — Inn, a filthy hole, not fit for a dog. It is a mile distant from the Rhine. This is a miserable small town of 2000 Inhab., of which a barrack and a church spire rising above the ramparts are alone visible from the river. It was founded by the Empr. Rudolph of Habsburg, liken. Bavaria, n.103. mannheim to Paris. —104. to strasburg. 549 who died here, 1291. It is converted into a Fortress of the German Confe¬ deration, and strong military defences have been in progress since 1834. There is a gold-washery here, in the sands of the Rhine. Ducats of Rhine gold are not uncommon in Baden. Bridge of boats over the Rhine here. 1. Near Lauterberg, the Lauter river enters the Rhine, the boundary (since 1815) between Alsace and the Palatinate. rt. Leopoldsliafen (formerly called Schrock), a poor village without proper accommodation for travellers. rt. Knielingen {Inn, Zum Rheinbad). Boat bridge here. Here is a villa of Margrave Max, of Baden. The rt. bank of the Rhine, all along the territory of Baden and Darm¬ stadt, is lined with stone dykes, for the protection of the banks. More than 100,000 acres of good meadow-land have thus been gained. rt. Iffetsheim is 6 m. from Baden Baden. 1. Fort Louis, a fortress raised by Vauban, on an island, taken and razed by the Austrians 1793. The spire of Strasburg is visible from this (27 m. off) in clear weather ; and perhaps the best view of it is from the Rhine, higher up. Like Mt. Blanc, its height is not appreciated when you are near it. A small quantity of gold is found in the sand and gravel of the Rhine in this part of its course. A few persons occupy themselves in gold-washing, but the gain is small and very precarious. It occurs chiefly along the banks. 1. Strasburg. In Rte. 107. 1. Below the bridge of Ivehl a canal opens into the Rhine, connecting it with the Ill, and enabling steamers to penetrate into the heart of Strasburg. ROUTE 103. MANNHEIM (LUDWIGSIIAFEN) TO METZ AND PARIS, BV IIOMBURG, KAISERSLAU¬ TERN, SAARBRuCKEN, AND FORBACII: RAILWAY OF THE TALATTNATE. 18| Germ. m. to Forbaeh. This Railway —the Pfalzer-Ludwigs- eisenbahn—was opened 1847, 48, and i 54. Terminus at Ludwigshafen on 1. bank of the Rhine, opposite Mannheim. Trains 3 or 4 times a day, in 5^ hrs. Fast trains in 18 hrs. to Paris. A tra¬ veller familiar with the Rhine may agreeably vary his route by going from Mannheim to Treves, and descending the Moselle. Mutterstadt Stat. Schifferstadt Junction Stat. Here a branch Railway diverges (1.) to Spires. Ilasloch Stat. 4 Neustaclt Junct. Stat. Hence a Rly. branches to Edcnkobcn and Landau (Rte. 104). The Rly. now enters the Haardt mountains, and penetrates for 6 m. up the narrow winding valley of the Speicrbach, through whose red sand¬ stone rocks 11 short tunnels have been driven. Frankenstein Stat. 8 £ Kaiserslautern Stat. 10^ Landstulil Stat. 1 Itj Bruchmuhlbacli Stat. The road quits the Bavarian territory and enters that of Prussia. 13 Hamburg Stat. (See Rte. 101.) A productive coalfield is reached near Bexbach Stat. 15f Neunlurchen Junct. Stat. (Jochum’s Inn). Rly. down the Nahc to Kreutznach and Bingen (Rte. 100). 17^ Saarbriicken Junct. Stat. — Rail¬ way to Treves (Rtes. 100, 100a). 18f Forbaeh Stat. on French frontier. Metz Stat. 1 In Handbook of Paris Terminus. I France. ROUTE 104. MANNHEIM TO STRASBURG, BY NEU- STADT AND LANDAU—RAILWAY. EXCURSIONS TO DURKHEIM, ANN- WEILER, AND TRIFELS. 15 Germ. m. = 69 Eng. m. As far as to Neustadt Junct. Stat., sec Rte. 103. [The circle of the Rhine (Rhein Kreis) includes much pleasing scenery among the chains of the Ilaardt and Vosges mountains, and many old towns and castles, interesting from their history. The following route, not much traversed ) See Rte. / 101 . 550 ROUTE 104. —DURKHEIM. KEtTSTADT. Sect. VI1L hitherto hy English travellers, lays open some of the most interesting objects in this part of the country, and will conduct to the prison of Hicliard Cceur- de-Lion, an object of interest for all Englishmen. They must not expect to meet with a good road, or very capi¬ tal accommodation off the Railway. From Mannheim as far as Oggersheim Stat. {Inn : Pfalzcr Hof). Here is a plush-mill. SeeRte. 102. [Either from Oggersheim, or better still from Ludwigshaven, where public and private conveyances may be pro¬ cured (distance 12 m.), an excursion may be made to Diirkheim. — {Inn, Hotel Reitz.) This town, of 5500 Inhab., was once the residence of the Princes of Lein- ingen-Hardcnburg, whose palace was burnt by the French, 1794; it was originally a strong fortress, but its works have long since been razed. It is now chiefly remarkable as a place of resort with invalids, who take the grape-cure (Trauben-Kur), and for its agreeable situation at the foot of the hills on the skirts of the plain of the Rhine, and at the entrance of the valley of the Isen- ach, up which runs the road to Kaisers¬ lautern, and for its pleasing environs. The chief beauties of the Rheinpfalz begin at Diirkheim, on the borders of the Ilaardtgebirge. The proper way —indeed the only one—to explore its heights and valleys is on foot, guided by a good map—such as Reizmann’s map of Germany, sheets 199 and 218, price 15 Sgr. each. Within a short distance lie the salt¬ works of Phillipshall. The summit of the nearest height, the Kastanicnberg, is crowned by the Ileidenmauer (Pa¬ gan’s Wall), a rampart of loose stones 8 to 10 ft. high, 60 or 70 wide at the base, enclosing a space of about 2 m. The Romans are said to have built it to keep in check the barbarians: and Attila is reported to have passed the winter in it, after having expelled the Romans, and when on his way to take possession of Rome itself. It has given a name to a novel of Cooper, the American. Near it is the Devil’s Stone, a natural rock, bearing the im¬ pression of a gigantic paw, on which the pagans are said to have sacrificed. The view from it over the plain of the Palatinate, along the Rhine and Neckar as far as Heidelberg, and the near prospect of fertile and industrious val¬ leys, is highly pleasing. At the entrance of the Isenaclithal, at the top of a hill nearly encircled by the stream, stand the graceful ruins of the Abbey of Limburg, with its vast church, founded 1030, by Conrad the Salique, in the style of the Dom of Spires, and destroyed by the Swedes 1632. The height on which it stands commands fine views, and is now converted into gar¬ dens. A crypt and part of the cloister remain. Within sight of the ruins of the abbey are those of Hardenburg, the castle of the Counts of Leiningen, its greatest enemies, who were engaged in constant feuds with the monks, and burnt the abbey in the 15th cent. One of the Raugrafs of Hardenburg, having made the abbot his prisoner, built his head into the wall of the castle, with his face towards the abbey, that he might sec the conflagration. The railroad from Diirkheim to Neu- stadt (9 m.) passes by Wachenlieim Stat., Forst, and Deidesheim Stat. {Inn, Baierischer Hof), all famous for the wines produced in the neighbouring vineyards. It is a most delightful ride. Geologists will remark with interest the eruption of basalt, proceeding from the mountain called Pechstein-Kopf : the basalt as¬ sumes the shape of balls.3 Neustadt an der Haardt. Junct. Stat. — Inns: Lowe, near the Rly. ; Krone. This town of 8000 Inhab. is old and un¬ inviting within, but its situation at the foot of the Haardt mountains is delight¬ ful. Its Church , finishedin the 14th cent., contains curious monuments of the Pfalzgraves. In the fore-court, called the Paradise , some remains of ancient fresco paintings may be traced. The neigh¬ bourhood abounds in ruined castles, many of which were reduced to their present condition in the Peasants’ War (1525). Railroads to Metz and Paris hy For- bach, to Kaiserslautern and Saarbriick- en, to Weissemburg and Strasburg. On the hill above the town rise the Rhenish Bavaria, route 104. —landau. Ann wet Lee. ivy-clad ruins of the Castle Winzingen , called Haardter Schlosschen (originally the summer residence of the Electors Palatine, now attached to a modern villa), and Wolfsburg, destroyed in the Thirty Years’ War. It commands a fine view, extending as far as Heidel¬ berg castle. About 2 m. S. of Neustadt is the Maxburg, formerly Castle of Hambach , built by the Emp. Henry IV., who is said to have set out from hence on his disgraceful pilgrimage to Pome barefoot, in 1077, to appease the anger of the haughty Pope Hildebrand. It was presented to King Maximilian II. of Bavaria, on his marriage, by the Bheinkreis, and he has restored and re¬ built it under -the name of Maxburg. The view from it is fine, but inferior to that from the Madcnburg. Near Neustadt very extensive quar¬ ries are excavated in the Buntersand- stein and Muschelkalk ; the latter abounds in fossils. The railroad passes Edenkoben Stat. (Inn, Schaaf, good), a town of 4500 Inhab., surrounded by vineyards, producing a wine of inferior quality. Near it is the Boyal Villa Ludwigshohe, and the eh. and tower of the ruined convent Heilsbruck. The river Queich, which formed the ancient boundary between the Pala¬ tinate and Alsatia, and was defended by ramparts called the Landau lines, is crossed. Landau Stat.— Inns: Schwan; P fal¬ ser Hof. This strong fortress of the Germanic Confederation (more than a mile from the Stat.), is occupied by a garrison of 4500 Bavarians, and num¬ bers 7000 Inhab. It is situated on the Qucich, which fills its fosse with water. It has been an object of contest in every great European war from the 15tli cent., and consequently its his¬ tory is nothing but a succession of sieges, blockades, bombardments, cap¬ tures, and surrenders. During the Thirty Years’ War it was taken 8 times, by the troops of Count Mansfeldt, by the Spaniards, Swedes, Imperialists, and French. In the 17th cent, it fell into the hands of the French, was for¬ tified by Vauban, and was considered impregnable until 1702, when it was taken by Margraye Lewis of Baden. 551 From 1713 to 1815 it remained in the hands of the French. It stood a siege of 9 months in 1793, in the course of which 30,000 shells, See., were thrown into it. In the following year the pow¬ der magazine blew up. On the tower of the arsenal (a desecrated eh.), hangs the tin cap of liberty, painted red, stuck up by the French, 1793. The only church is decorated (?) with a monument to the Baron de Montclair. The gates of the fortress are shut at an early hour. Railway. Landau to Strasburg. [An agreeable excursion may be made to the Madcnburg, near Eschbach (Gun¬ ter’s Inn), the most perfect castle in the Bheinpfalz, which long was the property of the Archbishops of Spires, ruined by the French 1680. The view from it is the finest in the district. A guide should be engaged at Eschbach to cross the hills to Trifcls, 6 m. to the E. The walk from it through the woods to Annweiler, taking Trifels by the way, is about 8 m. The post-road from Landau to Zwei- briicken runs up the pretty valley of the Queich, a beautiful pass of the Vosges, to 1^ Annweiler. —Inn, Post. This is a town of 2600 Inhab,, on the Qucich. The ruined castle of Trifels, memo¬ rable as the prison of Richard Cceur-de- Lion, is 5 m. distant. It is now a total ruin. It occupies the summits of three distinct conical rocks, as its name im¬ plies, called Trifels, Ancbos, and Schar- fenburg. An agreeable path, 1^ hr’s. walk, leads up to it from the town. The chief remains arc a tower, of large blocks of stones 80 ft. high. The sub¬ terranean dungeon, in which, according to tradition, ho was confined, and watched night and day by guards with drawn swords, is still pointed out. After being captured by his treacherous ene¬ my, Leopold of Austria, on his return from the Holy Land, Bichard was sold by him for 30,000 marks of silver to the Emp. Henry VI., who basely detained him a prisoner from 1192 to 1194. It was probably beneath these walls that the song of the faithful minstrel Blon- del first succeeded in discovering the prison of his master, by procuring the vocal response from the royal trou- 552 ROUTE 105. —FRANKFURT TO BASLE. "badoiu 1 . In 1193 Ms jailor, the Enrp., brought Richard in chains before the Diet at Hagenau, to answer the charge of the murder of Conrad of Montferrat, which he repelled with such manly and persuasive eloquence, and proved so clearly his innocence, that the Diet at once acquitted him, and ordered his chains to be knocked off. In 1194 he was released from Trifels in consi¬ deration of a ransom of 130,000 marks of silver. The castle of Trifels stands on the summit of a singular mountain of sandstone (Buntersandstein) called the Sonnenberg, 1422 ft. above the sea- level. It was a favourite residence of the German emperors, and must have been a place of great magnificence as well as strength. Frederick Barba- rossa, and many of his predecessors and successors, held their court here, and the Regalia of the empire were depo¬ sited within its walls for security. It was also used as a state prison for many unfortunate captives besides Richard of England. It has remained a ruin ever since the Thirty Years’ War, when it was taken by the Swedes; but it has something imposing even in its present state. The chapel has been stripped, and the marble pillars removed from it to the ch. of Annweiler. On the top of Scharfenburg rises a tower 100 ft. high; the ditch around it is hewn out of the rock. Ann weiler contains nothing remark¬ able, but the scenery of the valley of the Queich, for 12 m. above it, should not be left unseen. The scenery be¬ tween Annweiler and Dahn is particu¬ larly interesting from the extraordinary forms assumed by the sandstone rocks (Buntersandstein), which have been split and fissured in all directions. At Willgartswiesen (/aw, Lamm; good and cheap) is a pretty new Ch. with twin towers. A walk of 2 hrs. by Hauenstein, with a guide, brings you to Dahn (/ww, Ritter St. Georg), near which rises the overhanging rock called Jungfernsprung.] Railway : Landau to Strasburg. AYinden Stat. This is the stat. for Bcrg-Zabern. Sect. VIII. Schaidt Stat. Here is the Bavarian customhouse. The Lauter forms the boundary of Bavaria and France, and is crossed be¬ fore reaching Weissenburg Stat., a town of G000 Inhab. (Inn: II. de l’Angc.) Soultz-sous-Foret Stat. Walburg Stat. Through forests. Hagenau Stat. (Inn, Post), a town of 11,000 Inhab. (3000 Jews), once a free city of the German Empire, and a fortress. The Ch. of St. George dates partly from the 13tli century. Bischweiler Stat. Wendcnheim Junct. Stat. on the line from Paris to Strasburg. (Handbooh of France.) Strasburg Terminus. (Rte. 107). ROUTE 105. FRANKFURT TO BASLE, BY DARMSTADT, THE BERGSTRASSE AND ODENWALD, HEIDELBERG, CARLSRUIIE, AND FREI¬ BURG.'—RAILWAY. Frankfurt to Heidelberg or Mann¬ heim 7 trains daily—express in 2£ hrs., slow train 4 7 }, by the Main-Neckar Fisenbahn, 55 E. m. Heidelberg to Basle, in 7 hrs., by the Badische Staatsbahn .—35 Germ. m. = 160 E. m. Terminus in Frankfurt outside the Gallus Thor. The line crosses the Main at Frank¬ furt by an iron bridge, and passes 1. on the height the watch-tower of Sachsen- hausen , whence the view over Frank¬ furt, the Main, the distant Taunus, and the immediate foreground of neat villas and vineyards is very pleasing. At Sachsenhausen the railway to Offenbach turns off to the E. Langen Stat. The country, as far as Darmstadt, is flat and uninteresting. Cross the Rly. from Mayence to Darmstadt and Aschaffenburg. Darmstadt Junct. Stat. — Inns: //. Darmstadt . ROUTE 105. —DARMSTADT. 553 Darmstadter Ilof; Traube (Bunch of Grapes); Kohler’s, near the rly.stat., out¬ side the Bheinthor. Darmstadt, the capi¬ tal of the Grand Duchy of Ilesse Darm¬ stadt, the residence of the Grand Duke, and scat of the government and cham¬ bers, has a Pop. of 32,000 (chiefly Pro¬ testants). It is a dull, uninteresting town, which need not detain the tra¬ veller long. The appearance of tor¬ pidity is increased by the extent of surface over which it is spread. The streets are straight and very wide, the squares numerous; and many of the houses are built singly, with intervals between them. The old town, with its dark and confined streets, is very pro¬ perly kept in the background, and none of the great thoroughfares pass through it. Near the end of the Pheinstrasse, leading from the railway, rises a Column , 134 ft. high, surmounted by a statue of the Grand Duke Louis, founder of the new town, by Schwanthaler. The Catholic Ch. built by Moller, a native architect, is worth notice. Its exterior is of brick; the interior, a ro¬ tunda, 173 ft. in diameter and 123 ft. high, surrounded by pillars, 50 ft. high, is imposing, though simple. The Grand Duke lives in a New Palace of no great architectural preten¬ sions, next door to the Traube Plotcl. The Old Palace (Altes Schloss) has been fitted up as a residence for the Hereditary Grand Duke (Erb-Gross Herzog). It is a structure of various ages, from the 16th to the 18th; still surrounded by a dry ditch, now con¬ verted into a shrubbery and garden. It contains likewise the Museum of Paint¬ ings and of Natural History. Among the 700 pictures which fill the gallery, the following seem best worth notice :— The Purification of the Virgin, by William of Cologne , a rare master.— Schoreel , the Death of the Virgin.— L. Cranach , portrait of Albert of Branden¬ burg, Abp. of Maycnce, as St. Jerome with his lion; and of Luther and his Wife. — Portraits of Louis XIV. and XV., Cardinal Mazarin, Maria Lec- zinsky, Marie Antoinette, Cardinal Floury, and Madame du Barry, by French artists. —In the Dutch School: Schalken , portrait of William III. of [N. 0.] England.— Vandgk , Virgin and Child ; sketch of the portrait of Lord Pem¬ broke.— P. Potter (?), Cow and Herd, with a horn.— Fchhout , a Man’s Head. — Teniers , Peasants, — P. de Hooge , Dutchman and his Wife.— Rembrandt, portrait of his Second Wife.— Italian School : P. Veronese, sketch of the great picture in the Louvre of the Marriage in Cana.— Titian (?), a Venus (doubt¬ ful).— Velasquez, a Child in a white frock. — Domenichino , David and Na¬ than.— Raphael (?), St. John in the Wilderness, varying slightly from the paintings of the same subject at Flo¬ rence, and in the Stafford gallery ; the Archangel Michael. St. Genoveva by a modern German artist, Steinbruck. There is some very curious painted glass in this gallery, and numerous an¬ tique ivory carvings, enamels, See. In the Collection of Coins are many of the thin and barbarous Bracteatse of the middle ages. Museum of Natural History. The most valuable and interesting part of this collection are the fossils , found in the neighbourhood of the Bliine, such as remains of the whale and elephant, some from the bed of the Pdiine : seve¬ ral very perfect skulls, and numerous other bones of rhinoceros from Oppen- heim; of Sus antiquus and Mastodon from Eppclsheim: numerous perfect jaws and other remains of the Deinothe- rium, an extinct amphibious animal, equalling the elephant in size, and feeding like the Dugong upon herbs and weeds growing in the water. These unequalled specimens were found in sandpits at Eppelsheim, near Alzci, along with marine shells. The fossils of this museum have been de¬ scribed in a work published by Dr. Kaup. The Palace also contains a good Public Library of 200,000 vols. ; the inhabitants of the town are allowed to take books home. The Theatre (Ilof-Opernhaus), near the Palace, was built in 1819 from the designs of Moller. Near the theatre is the Exercire Haus (Drilling House), a sort of large riding-school. It was built for the purpose of drilling the garrison under cover in bad weather, and is rc- 2 B 55 4 ROUTE 105.—ODEN WALT). Sect. VIII. markable for the great size of its roof, 157 ft. broad, and 319 ft. long; con¬ structed, it is said, by a common car¬ penter, after architects of pretension had declared the task impossible. The building now serves as a depot for artillery. The Gardens of the Palace (Bosquet, or Herrngarten) are very prettily laid out, but sadly neglected; one lofty white poplar is remarkable; within them is the grave of Margravine Henrietta Caro¬ line, great-grandmother of the present King of Prussia. The spot was chosen by herself in her lifetime, and Frederick the Great engraved upon her urn the words, “ Sexu foemina, ingenio vir.” The landlord of the inn will intro¬ duce the traveller to the Casino club. The House of Commons of the duchy assembles under the same roof, and, at particular seasons, balls, concerts, and assemblies take place in it. There is very little commerce at Darmstadt; the inhabitants depend in a great measure on the court. A mile or two out of the town is the preserve, where wild boars are kept for the ducal chasse. Strangers are often taken in the evening to see the animals fed. Kranichstein , a shooting seat, 3 m. dis¬ tant, is the summer residence of Prince Lewis and the Princes Alice of Eng¬ land. Pretty walks lead to it. Railways to Mayence Germ, m.), by Gross-Gerau, crossing the Ithine by a bridge (Rte. 99 a) ;—to Asschaf- fenburg and Wurtsburg. Eberstadt Stat. A little beyond this (1.) is the ruined castle of Frankenstein. The picturesque district called the Odenwald (forest of Odin) begins a few m. S. of Darmstadt, not far from this station. It lies to the E. of the railroad and of the high road to Hei¬ delberg, and some of its most inter¬ esting scenes, particularly the Melibo- cus, may be visited on the way thither. The entire excursion may not suit the taste or convenience of all travellers; but the ascent of the Melibocus mountain cannot fail of affording gratification by its fine panoramic view. very good but hilly road leads from Darmstadt to Heidelberg, through the heart of the Odenwald, amid scenery of great interest. The stats, are Brens- bach, Erbach (see next page), and Hirschhorn. The distance, 55 m. The best sleeping place is Michelstadt, but as the Inn (Lion) is not good it is better to push on.3 The Railroad, for the greater part of the way, runs near the old post-road from Darmstadt to Heidelberg, which is celebrated for its beauty. It is called Bergstrasse (mountain road, from the Latin strata montana , although, in fact, perfectly level), because it runs along the base of a range of hills, which form the E. boundary of the valley of the Rhine. Its chief beauty arises from the fertility and high cultivation of the district it overlooks, rich in its luxuriant vegetation of vines and maize, enlivened by glimpses of the Rhine, and bounded by the outline of the Yosges mountains in France. (1.) The wooded and vine-covered range of mountains, with their old castles, form¬ ing the boundary of the Odenwald, runs parallel with the railroad and at a short distance from it; rt. stretches a vast sandy flat, through which the Rhine wanders, bounded by the heights of Mont Tonnerre and the Yosges at 50 or 60 m. distance. The villages and towns are beautifully situated at the foot of the mountains, overhung by vine-covered slopes, and embosomed in orchards, which extend in cheerful avenues along the road from one town to another. “Almost every mountain of the Bergstrasse, and many of those in the Odenwald, are crowned by a castle ; which, embosomed in the woods of beech, or surrounded by vineyards, adds the interest of its anti¬ quity and chivalrous associations to the charms of the landscape.” — Autumn near the Rhine. Zwingenberg Stat. close under the woody Melibocus. [Those who wish to ascend the Meli¬ bocus should leave the railroad here (/mi, Lowe). Take refreshments with you—none are to be had above—and ask for the key of the tower. The visit, including ascent and descent by Schloss Auerbach, the best way to return to the road, occupies 3 hrs. walking. H. Darmstadt, route 105. —the melibocus. ERBACH. 555 The tower alone commands the view on the side of the Odenwald, over its forest-clad hills; the keys are kept at Auerbach, and at Alsbach. The whole excursion to the Melibocus, Felsberg, Felsenmcer, and through the valley of Schonberg hack to Auerbach and Zwingenberg, occupies about 6 hrs. The Melibocus, or Malchen , is a conical hill of granite, 1632 Paris ft. above the sea: it is the highest of the Odenwald chain of hills, and is conspicuous far and wide, on account of the white tower on its top, erected 1772, as a Belvedere. The view from it is most extensive, owing to the vast expanse of flat in the valley of the Bhine below. “ The more distant objects are, Spires, and Mannheim with its slated dome, to the 1.; Worms and its Gothic cathedral, opposite; and the dark towers of Mayenee, lower down. The tower is built on the very edge of the declivity. The smoking villages, the gardens, vineyards, and orchards of the Bergstrasse, appeared immediately be¬ neath us. We traced the course of the Bhine, which now gleamed in the bright sun, and appeared little removed from the base of the mountain, from above Mannheim, almost to Bingen, a distance of nearly 60 Eng. m. At Bingen it loses itself in the defiles of the Bheingau mountains, which bound the view on that side. The course of the placid Neckar and its junction with the Bhine are very visible, as also that of the Main. By the help of a good tele¬ scope, in a clear day, you may distin¬ guish the tower of Strasburg cathedral, at a distance of above 100 Eng. m. Towards the N. the view reaches the mountains in the neighbourhood of Giessen, in Hesse, 60 m. distant. To the E. lies the Odenwald, over the chaotic wooded hills of which the pro¬ spect stretches as far as the vicinity of Wurzburg—a distance of 60 or 70 m.; while on the W., across the Bhine, the eye ranges over the smooth plain, till it is bounded by the blue broken tops of the Mont Tonnerre and the Yosges mountains, at a nearly equal distance.” Autumn near the Rhine. [Those who intend to extend their walk through the Odenwald continue by a convenient path to another moun¬ tain, the Felsberg, 3 m. off, surmounted by a hunting-lodge (Jagerhaus), which also commands a fine view. The valley which separates it from the Melibocus is one of the wildest in the Odenwald. A little way from the Jagerhaus, on the declivity of the hill, by the side of the path leading to Beichcnbach, lies the Riesensaule (Giant’s Column), a gi¬ gantic column of hard syenite, similar to the rock of which the mountain is composed, and without doubt quar¬ ried on the spot; it is about 30 ft. long, nearly 4 in diameter, and taper¬ ing towards one end. Its origin and use are unknown, hut it must he of great antiquity. Not far off lies a vast block of the same stone, called Riesenaltar , hearing on it incisions and marks of the saw. The appearance of these vestiges of human power and art in the depths of a sequestered forest is peculiarly striking, and not easily ac¬ counted for. Some have supposed that they are of German origin, and were intended to form part of a temple of Odin. It is more probable that they are the work of Boman artificers, during the time they were established in this part of Germany, which was included in the Agri Decumates. It was at one time proposed to erect the column on the field of Leipzig, as a monument of that victory—a project more easily started than executed. The Felsenmeer (Sea of Bocks) is a singular accumulation of fragments of syenite, some of vast size, heaped upon one another, and extending from near the top of the Felsberg almost to Beichenbach. They are of the same kind of rock as the mountain itself, so cannot have been transported from a distance. They appear like an avalanche of stones, hurled by some convulsion of nature from the summit. From this point again the traveller has the choice either of returning to Zwingenberg Station, by way of Beichenbach and Auerbach, or of proceeding about 18 m. from Auer¬ bach, along a tolerable road, passing through Schonberg, Beichenbach, the hill of Wintcrkasten, and Beicliels- heim, to Erbach {Inns: Burg Wilden- 2b2 5 56 ROUTE 105.— ERBACH. CASTLE OE RODEUSTEIU. Sect. VIII. stein; Krone). This small town is situated in a yalley lying upon the now red sandstone (Buntersandstein) and muschelkalk of geologists. The Castle of the Counts of Erbach , a modem building, erected on the site of an ancient baronial residence, the greater part of which, except the donjon tower, was removed in the last cent,, contains a very interesting Ar¬ moury, highly deserving of a visit. There are many suits, arranged, some on horseback, in the attitude of the tournament, others on foot. The histor)^ of every one is known: many have belonged to ancestors of the family,others have been worn by robber knights (Baublitter), not a few of whom expiated their crimes on the wheel or scaffold. Those which have a more general historical interest are, the suits of Philip the Good of Bur¬ gundy, the Empr. Frederick III., Maximilian I. of Austria, Gian Gia¬ como Medici, Margrave Albert of Brandenburg, Gustavus Adolphus, and Wallenstein. The last two, with many other suits in the collection, were brought from the arsenal at Nurem¬ berg. Here is besides the panoply of Franz of Sickingen, and his friend Gotz of Berlichingen, with the iron hand, brought from Ileilbronn, and a small suit made for Thomele, the dwarf of the Archduke Ferdinand of Austria, and worn by him on some festive occa¬ sion when he was presented in a pie to the company seated at table. There are other curiosities in the castle, such as fire-arms of various periods, painted glass, antiques, vases, &c.; in short, it is highly worthy of a visit from strangers. In the chapel are the coffins in which Eginhard, secretary and son- in-law of Charlemagne, and the faith¬ ful Emma his wife, were buried ; they were removed from the church in Seli- genstadt in 1810. Eginhard was an ancestor of the Erbach family. Erbach is connected by a very good post-road with Darmstadt; the dis¬ tance is . r >i Germ, m., and the country is very beautiful. There is also a way from Erbach to Heidelberg by Bcer- felden and Eberbacli on the Neckar, from whence the descent of that river may be made in a boat, or the road along the banks may be followed. About 9 m. N.W. from Erbach, between Beichelsheim and Bilstein, and near the former place, in a wild and secluded mountain district, surrounded by forests, lies the Castle of liodenstein , the scat of the singular superstition of the wild Jdyer, the Knight of Itoden- stein, who, issuing from out the ruined walls of the neighbouring castle of Schnellert, his usual abode, announces the approach of war by traversing the air with a noisy cavalcade, to the Castle of Itodcnstcin, situated on a solitary mountain opposite. “ The strange noises heard on the eve of battles are authenticated by affidavits preserved in the village of Beichelsheim; some are of so recent a date as 1743 and 1790, and there are persons who profess to have been convinced by their eyes as well as their ears. In this manner the people assert that they were fore¬ warned of the victories of Leipzig and Waterloo. If the spectral host return at once to Schnellert, nothing mate¬ rial occurs ; but if the huntsman tarry with his train, then some momentous event, threatening evil and calamity to Germany, is expected by the people to occur. The flying army o i Boden- stein may probably be owing to a sim } le cause. The power of the wind is very great, and its roar singularly solemn and sonorous in these vast districts of forest. In the pine forests it some¬ times tears up thousands of trees in a night.”— Autumn near the Rhine. The legend of the AVild Huntsman has been attributed, with some proba¬ bility, to another cause—the passage at night of vast flocks of the larger birds of passage, as cranes, storks, &e., through the air in their annual migra¬ tions. The rustling of so many wings, and the wild cries of the fowl, heard in the darkness of night and in the | solitude of the forest, may easily have furnished the superstitious peasant with the idea of the aerial huntsman and his pack. Since the dissolution of the German empire, the spectre, it is said, has given up his nocturnal chase; at , least, the inhabs. of the farm-house | standing directly under the Bodenstcin 557 H. Darmstadt, route 105. —auerbacii. starkenburg. Tiic holy monies who founded the have not, for many years, been dis¬ turbed by noise or sight that can be traced to a ghostly origin. There is a road from Reichclshcim by Furth to AVeinheim Stat. on the Bergstrasse.] The Railroad runs nearly parallel with the Bergstrasse from Darmstadt to AYeinheim, where it diverges to cross the Neckar at Ladenburg, be¬ yond which it joins the railroad be¬ tween Mannheim and Heidelberg half¬ way between those towns. Auerbach Stat. [Inns: Krone (Crown), good), one of the prettiest villages on the Bergstrasse. It is sometimes re¬ sorted to as a watering-place, on account of a mineral spring in the neighbourhood. In the village itself there is nothing remarkable, but it is worth while to explore the beauties of its neighbourhood. A gradual as¬ cent, practicable for a light char, leads in 2 m. past the Brunnen to the ruins of the Castle of Auerbercj , one of the most picturesque in the Odenwald. It was dismantled by the French under Turenne, 1674, and time is fast com¬ pleting the work of destruction begun by man ; one of its tall slender towers fell in 1821, and the other threatens to follow it. The hill on which it stands is composed of granite and gneiss. A shady and easy path conducts from the ruins to the Melibocus, 2 m.; guides and mules arc to be hired by those who require them, and carriages can safely ascend. Bensheim Stat. [Inn, Sonne), a town of 4000 Inhab., with a new ch. in the round style, built by Moller. [About 3 m. AY. of Bensheim, otf the road, is the ruined Abbey of Lorsch , the oldest Gothic edifice in this part of Germany. A fragment of a portico, which served as an entrance into the original church, consecrated in 774, in the presence of Charlemagne, his queen, and two sons, still exists : it is a spcci men of the debased Roman style. A part of the building, at present used as a storehouse for fruit, dates from 1090. Lorsch is now only interest¬ ing to the antiquarian and architect. abbey not only spread civilisation and religion through the surrounding coun¬ try, but redeemed it from the state of a wilderness, like the back-woods of America, and brought it under culti¬ vation. In process of time the priory surpassed in wealth and extent of pos¬ session many bishoprics and principali¬ ties. Duke Tkassilo of Bavaria, deposed by Charlemagne, for treason, ended his days here as a monk. 3 Ileppenheim Stat. — Inn , Halber Mond (Half Moon), good, capital trout, and wine of the country. This small town of 3700 inhab., like most others on the Bergstrasse, has an ancient and decayed appearance, but is prettily situ¬ ated. The church was built by Charle¬ magne. On a commanding height be¬ hind (1^ m.) rise the towers of Starh- enbury Castle , built 1064 by the abbots of Lorsch as a defence against the at¬ tacks of the German Emperors. It afterwards belonged to the Archbishops of Mayence, who considered it their strongest fortress, and maintained a garrison in it down to the time of the Seven Years’ AYar. It was taken by the Spaniards under Gon. di Cordova(1621), by the Swedes under Gustavus Adol¬ phus (1631), and was twice fruitlessly ' besieged by Turenne (1645 and 1674). The ascent—4. an hr.’s drive by a j rough road—from Ileppenheim is not ' very difficult, and is well repaid by 1 the beautiful view. The ground round these picturesque ruins is tastefully ' laid out in a garden. Upon a hillock, surmounted by 3 trees, in the middle of a field, called Landbery , in ancient ! times the Burgraves of Starkenburg held, in the open air, their tribunal called Gaugericht. A little way out of Ileppenheim the railroad crosses the frontier of Darmstadt into Baden. Hcmsbach Stat. Near here is the country scat of M. Rothschild of Frank¬ furt, surmounted by 2 towers. He has large estates here. Weinheim Stat. ( Inns: Der Karls- berg, in the market-place ; Pfalzer Hof, j m. from stat.) is an ancient town, surrounded by towers and a ditch ; it lies on the AYcschnitz, and has 4900 Inhab. A handsome modern 558 ROUTE 105. —HEIDELBERG. Sect. VIII. Church. Its wealth consists in the orchards and vineyards around. The best wine of the Bergstrasse is the Hubberger, which grows near Wein- heim. Above the town is the castle of Windeck , remarkable for its cylindrical donjon tower. The railroad beyond Weinlicim takes a bend to the S.W. away from the Berg¬ strasse, and makes direct for the Neckar. Gross-Sachsen Stat. Beyond this Ladenburg Stat., old town with walls and towers, and a handsome church (St. Gallus), on the rt. hank of the Neckar, which the Bailway here crosses by a fine bridge. Inn , Adler. Friedrichsfeld Stat., Junction with the Bailway from Mannheim to Hei¬ delberg, from which places this stat. is nearly equally distant. Omnibus to Schwetzingen Gardens, m. off (Bte. 102 ). The ruined castle of Stralilenberg , above the town of Schriessheim, may he discerned on the 1. Heidelberg is hidden from view until you are just opposite to it. Under theKonigstuhl lies TTeidelberg Stat., about \ m. out¬ side the Mannheim Thor.—Omnibus into the town.— Inns: Near the stat., H. Schrieder, kept by Kiihne;—Mul¬ ler’s (Victoria) Hotel, perfectly clean and comfortable: in the Market-place and near the Castle, Prinz Karl, good; —Badischer Hof;—Adler, near the P. Ivarl, clean and moderate;—H. de 1’Europe, kept by Schrieder, an at¬ tentive host;—H. de Bussie, 2nd class ; —Darmstadter Hof;—Bayrischer Hof. If pressed for time, you may walk in hr. from the railway, ascending the hill at once to the Anlagen ,—pretty gardens, lined with villas, on a terrace formed on the hill side, above the town; thence to the Castle , and the Garden Terrace ; returning down the footpath (Burgweg) into the Kornmarkt, and through the town back to the Bail¬ way. From the great Ch. a street leads N. in 5 min. to the Bridge , which is a fine point of view. The Kanzel , a projecting rock, and the Rondel , a sum¬ mer-house still higher up the hill than the Castle are fine points of view, but will extend the walk by about A an hour. Carriages are waiting at the Bailway, which, at the rate of 1 fl. or 1 fl. 12 kr. the hour, will drive you to the Castle, up the Neckar, to the top of the Konigstuhl, and back, in 3 or 4 hours, giving ample time to see the Castle. Carriage to the Castle 2 fl. The beauty of the Bergstrasse has been perhaps exaggerated; that of Heidelberg cannot be too much ex¬ tolled ; it is charmingly situated on the 1. bank of the Neckar, on a narrow ledge between the river and the castle rock. It is almost limited to a single street, nearly 3 m. long, from the Bail¬ way Stat. to the Heilbronn gate. It has 16,500 Inhab.,one-third Bom. Catholics. Few towns in Europe have experienced to a greater extent, or more frequently, the horrors of war, than the ill-starred Heidelberg. Previous to the Thirty Years’ War it displayed in its buildings all the splendour arising from flourish¬ ing commerce and the residence of the court of the Electors Palatine of the Bhine. It has been 5 times bom¬ barded, twice laid in ashes, and thrice taken by assault and delivered over to pillage. In 1622 (the fatal period of the Thirty Years’ War) the ferocious Tilly took the town by storm after a cruel siege and bombardment of nearly a month, and gave it up to be sacked for 3 days together. The garrison re¬ treated into the castle, headed by an Englishman named Herbert; but the death of their commander, who was shot, compelled them to surrender in a few days. The Imperial troops retained possession of the place for 11 years ; after which it was retaken by the Swedes, who were hardly to be pre¬ ferred as friends to the Imperialists as foes. But Heidelberg was destined to suffer far worse evils from the French. In 1674 the Elector Charles Louis incurred the displeasure of Louis XIV.; and a French army, under Turenne, was in consequence let loose upon the Palatinate, carrying slaughter, fire, and desolation before it. The Elector be¬ held with distress, from the castle in which he had shut himself up, the inroads of foreign troops, and flame and smoke rising up along the plain from burning towns and villages. Unable to oppose the French with equal force at Baden 559 ROUTE 105. —HEIDELBERG. UNIVERSITY, ETC. the head of an army, hut anxious to avenge the -wrongs of his country, he resolved, in a spirit which some may deem Quixotic, others chivalrous, to endeavour to end the contest with his own sword. Accordingly he sent a cartel to Marshal Turenne, challenging him to single combat. The French general returned a civil answer, but did not accept it. The ambition of Louis XIV. led him, on the death of the Elector, to lay claim to the Palatinate on behalf of the Duke of Orleans ; and another French army, more wicked than the first, was marched across the Rhine. Heidelberg was taken and burnt, 1G88, by Mclac, a general whose brutality and cruelty surpassed that of Tilly. But it was at the following siege, under Chamilly, in 1693, that it was reserved for the French to display the most merciless tyranny, and prac¬ tise excesses worthy of fiends rather than men, upon the town and itsinhab., paralleled only in the French Revolu¬ tion, and which will ever render the name of Frenchman odious in the Palatinate. The castle was betrayed through the cowardice or treachery of the governor, with the garrison, and many of the townspeople who had fled to it for refuge. The cruelty of the treatment they met with was, in this instance, heightened by religious intol¬ erance, and no mercy was shown to the Protestants. On this occasion the castle was entirely ruined. The University , founded 1386, is one of the oldest in Germany : the number of students is about 700. It is as a school of law and medicine that Hei¬ delberg is most distinguished. Many of the professors at the present time are men of great reputation—Mittermeyer in criminal law. Gervinus and Schlosscr reside here in retirement. As an edifice the University is not remarkable. It is a plain and not very large house in the small square (Lud¬ wigs Platz) near the middle of the town. The Library , in a building by itself, consists of 120,000 volumes, be¬ sides MSS. A portion of the famous Palatine Library , which was carried off by the Bavarians in the Thirty Years’ War, and sent to the Vatican as a present to the Pope, and as a trophy of the success of the Catholic cause, was restored to Heidelberg by Pope Pius VII. in 1815. The volumes sent back, 890 in number, relate principally to German history. It is related "that Tilly, being in want of straw after taking the castle, littered his cavalry with books and MSS. from the library of the Elector, at that time one of the most valuable in Europe. The curiosi¬ ties of this collection as it at present stands are,—a Codex of the Greek Anthology, 11th cent.; MSS. of Thucy¬ dides and Plutarch, of the 10th and 11 th, and many autographs of remark¬ able persons; Luther’s MS. translation of Isaiah ; his Exhortation to Prayer against the Turks; and a copy of the Heidelberg Catechism, annotated by him ; the Prayer-book of the Electress Elizabeth (James I.’s daughter); a Mass-book, ornamented with minia¬ tures, by John Dentzel of Ulm, 1499. The library is freely open to all per¬ sons for 2 hrs. daily, except on Sundays. Several professors have good Private Collections; the best are Creuzers’ ca¬ binet of antiquities; Leonhard’s fossils and minerals, particularly rich in spe¬ cimens illustrative of the geology of this part of Germany; and Professor Bronn’s fossils of the neighbourhood of Heidelberg. The Museum Club (§ 44), opposite the University, contains reading, ball, and concert rooms, well supplied with papers and journals. Neither the public nor private build¬ ings in the town are at all remarkable in an architectural point of view, chiefly owing to the destruction caused by repeated sieges. One house, however, escaped, which in the richly decorated fi^ade, ornamented with statues, coats of arms, &c., may give some notion of former splendour; it is the inn called Zum Ritter , from the figure of a knight on the top: it was built in 1592. It stands in the market-place, near the Church of the Holy Ghost, in which many electors and counts palatine were buried. Their fine monuments were destroyed by the French in 1793, when neither reverence for the dead nor the 560 Sect. VIII. ROUTE 105. —HEIDELBERG CASTLE. saeredness of tlio building prevented it becoming the scene of slaughter and sacrilege. The church is divided by a partition wall between the Catholics and Protestants, and the two services are performed under the same roof. The resistance of the townspeople to one of the electors, who wanted to deprive the Protestants of their half of this church, occasioned him to remove the Electoral court from Heidelberg to Mannheim in 1719-20. To the door of the Ch. of St. Peter , on the hill at the end of the Anlagen, Jerome of Prague, the companion of Huss, attached his celebrated theses , which he maintained, at the same time expounding the Reformed doctrines to a multitude of hearers in the adjoining churchyard. Here also is the simple tomb of Olympia Morata, who com¬ bined the feminine grace and beauty of a woman with the intellect and learn¬ ing of a philosopher. Persecuted as a heretic in Italy, the land of her birth, she was forced to fly, along with her husband, a German, and at length settled at Heidelberg, where she de¬ livered lectures to a largo and admiring audience. Her extraordinary acquire¬ ments in learning, her beauty, misfor¬ tunes, and early death, shed a peculiar interest upon her grave. The objects of greatest interest here are the Castle, and the views of the Rhine and He clear valley. The **Castle, anciently the residence of the Electors Palatine, presenting the combined character of a palace and a fortress, is an imposing ruin. The building displays the work of various hands, the taste of different founders, and the styles of successive centuries : it is highly interesting for its varied fortunes, its picturesque situation, its vastness, and the relics of architectural magnificence which it still displays, after having been three times burnt, and having ten times experienced the horrors of war. Its final ruin, how¬ ever, did not arise from those causes ; but after the greater part of the build¬ ing had been restored to its former splendour in 1718-20, it was set on fire by lightning in 17G4; and since the total conflagration which ensued, it has never been rebuilt or tenanted. It is at present only a collection of red stone walls, and has remained roofless for nearly a century. It is approached by a carriage-road from behind, and by a winding foot-path on the side of the Neckar. The oldest part remaining is probably that built by the Electors Rudolph and Rupert. It has all the character of a stronghold of the middle ages, and the teeth of the portcullis still project from beneath the archway leading to it. The Friedrichsbau , named from the Elector, who built it in 1607, is distinguished by excessive richness of decoration: its faos ^ ouse (B a- densche Hof), the best on the line, good, is at a little distance from the village, of 800 Inhab., which lies j off the road in a very romantic situa- I tion, hemmed in by high precipices, Baden. 581 ROUTE 108.— VILLINGEN. DONAUESCHINGEN. from one of which, 1^- in. distant from the Post, a pretty waterfall (the finest in Germany) descends. Near it is another Inn, Lowe. Triherg is the i centre of a manufacture peculiar to the Black Forest, that of wooden clocks, exported to the number, it is said, of 200,000 yearly, under the name of Dutch clocks, not only throughout Europe, but even to America and China. The sulphur-coloured straw- hats worn by the peasantry are also made here. Beyond Triherg there is a very long hut easy ascent. The Briegach, one of the head¬ waters of the Danube, rises within a short distance of !•£ St. Georgen. Here is a Bene¬ dictine convent of great antiquity, one of the focuses of the civilization of the surrounding district. It was burnt by a Duke of 'Wurtemberg because the monks refused to adopt the Reforma¬ tion, hut was soon succeeded by ano¬ ther. Ruins of the old convent exist. The new road, which is excellent, ends at Peterzels, about a mile beyond St. Georgen. An almost continuous de¬ scent leads to 2 Villingen — Inns, Post; Blume ; neither good—a market town, 3600 Inhab., surrounded by bleak hills. It has the appearance of having been built on the site of a Roman encampment. It is a square crossed by 2 main streets at right angles, one passing through the centre of the square, the other some¬ what on one side of it. There are 4gates, one at each end of these streets. About 4 m. E. of Villingen, near a village called Swenningen, is the Source of the Neckar. This is indeed a land of fountains and of watercourses ; and though the height of the mountains is not great, and they have no glaciers or perpetual snow, yet the reservoirs of the Black Forest feed with large sup¬ plies the two principal rivers of Eu¬ rope. The flakes of winter snow which descend upon some of the ridges, nay, even the drops of rain falling on oppo¬ site sides of a house, in some situations, are destined to end their career at the two opposite extremities of a continent; and, while part find their way to the German Ocean, others, which reached the ground within a few feet of them, take an opposite course, and fall into the Black Sea. 1 % Donaueschingen. — Inns: Schutze ; Falke. This town is the chief place of the small Landgraviate of Baar, and contains 3053 Inhab. The principal building is the Palace of the mediatised Prince of Furstenberg, a plain modern edifice. In a corner of the garden, and be¬ tween the walls of the palace and the church, is a round basin filled with clear sparkling water, which may be seen bubbling up from the bottom. Its waters, running out of the basin, are conducted for about 50 yds. in a subterranean channel into the Brieg¬ ach, which from that point receives the name of the Danube. This little basin, under the castle window, goes by the name of the Source of the Da¬ nube. The real origin of that river seems to have been involved in a por¬ tion of the same mystery which con¬ ceals the source of the Nile. The claims which the basin in the court¬ yard has to be considered the source are, that the name of Danube is not given to the river until the waters of this little rill are received into it, and that the two upper streams, the Brege, whose fountain-head is at the solitary chapel of St. Martin, about 5 m. N.W. of the village of Furtwangen, and 25 m. from Donaueschingen, and the Briegach, rising near' the convent of St. George, 20 m. off, in spite of the previous length of their course, are both liable to he exhausted by drought, until supplied by the rill from the castle garden of Prince Furstenberg. The whole coimtry round Donaues¬ chingen may be compared to a wet sponge, so abundant and numerous are the sources of water in springs, riUs, ponds, and marshes, all of which go to swell the tide of the Danube. About a mile out of Donaueschingen, at the village of Hiilfingen, the road crosses the Brege, which in regard to its previ¬ ous length may be looked on as the main stream of the Danube; the Briegach falls into it about a mile lower down. 582 ROUTE 108.— SCHAFFHAUSEN. CONSTANCE. Sect. VIII. Eilwagen , in 9 hrs., direct from Donaueschingen to Constance by Gei- singen (1-J Germ. m.). Engen (2), where Moreau beat the Austrians, in 1800, with a loss of 7000 men on either side. The height of Hohenhowen, an extinct volcano, once more vomited forth flames; but in spite of the tre¬ mendous fire of the Austrian artil¬ lery planted on it, it was carried by the French. Radolfzell(3). Constance (2^). In the midst of the bare open coun¬ try, interspersed with tufts of furze traversed on the way to Schaffhausen, a ruined castle is seen on a hill, with a village on the slope beneath it, at a little distance to the 1. of the road. This is Fiirstenberg , which gives its name to the principality, now media¬ tised. Riedbohringen is a small village. 2\ Blumberg ; a desolate-looking post-house. Custom-house near. This stage is almost entirely occu¬ pied in the ascent and descent of a steep hill called the Rande. The view from the top, near a wooden crucifix, is charming. On the 1. are seen 3 singular mountains, which from their shape may at once be known as ex¬ tinct volcanoes; they are called Ilohen- stoffeln, Hohenkrahe, and Hohen- twiel. Further on, in the distance, a wide expanse of the Lake of Con¬ stance, with the towers of Constance itself, backed by the snowy mountains of Switzerland , rises to view. Half way down the hill is a row of small houses; these are the Douane of the Baden frontier (§ 32). Immediately beyond them the traveller reaches Swiss ground, and the road passes through a little valley, completely Swiss in aspect as well as situation, to 3 Schaffhausen (see Handbook for Switzerland). Inns : at the Falls— Schweitzer Hof, best, w.cs .; and Schloss Laufen, good. In the town—Couronne, good, and not expensive. Railway from Schaffhausen to Con¬ stance. 4 or 5 trains daily in 2 hrs. See Handbook for Switzerland. Near Singen {Inn poor and extor¬ tionate) you pass at the foot of Hohen- twiel. The castle is now dismantled. The lofty rock upon which it stands gives it the appearance of an Indian hill fort. l^r Radolfzell (Post, good inn), a desolate town situated at the ex¬ tremity of the branch of the Lake of Constance called Unter See, with a fine cA., in the true German Gothic style. In the broad part of the Rhine, where it is still rather a lake than a river, is the Isle of Reichenau , anciently famed for a monastery, founded by one of the successors of Charlemagne, of which the Ch. (partly Romanesque) and Treasury remain. In the Treasury are to be seen, the shrine of St. Fortunata, an ivory ciborium, a cope, a crozier, and a missal of the 10th cent. The scenery of the road which runs along the 1. bank of the Rhine from Schaffhausen to Constance is more pleasing than the above road. The Rhine here, suddenly contracted from a lake to a river, is crossed by an iron railway- and rood-bridge into 2 t £ Constance Stat., near the lake and steamers .—Inns : Brochet ( Hecht ), best and excellent, looking over the lake, with very attentive landlord, who has extensive water privilege in and around Constance ; excellent rods, nets, punts, and all appliances for fishing, trolling, &c., which he lets out on moderate terms. This is capital head-quarters for fishing. Hotel d’Au- triche;—Goldner Lowe, at Kreutzlin- gen, in Swiss territory, about 1 m. distant. Constance, a decayed city of 8000 Inhab., instead of 40,000, which it once possessed, is remarkable for its an¬ tiquity, since its streets and many of its buildings remain unaltered since the 15th cent. Although situated on the 1. or Swiss bank of the Rhine, it belongs to Baden. It is connected with the opposite shore by an iron bridge, and occupies a projecting angle of ground at theW. extremity of the Bodensee, or lake of Constance ; its agreeable position and interesting historical associations make amends for the want of life perceptible within its venerable walls. It has ot late, however, revived considerably , Baden. ROUTE 108. —CONSTANCE. MINSTER. COUNCIL. 583 tlie government have formed, at a large expense, a port on the lake, which fa¬ cilitates the navigation, while it is an ornament to the town. The * Minster is a handsome Gothic structure, begun 1052, with fine open¬ work turrets in the AY. end; the doors of the main AY. portal between the two towers are of oak, curiously carved in compartments, with a representation of the Passion of our Lord, executed in 1470 by one Simon Bainder. The nave is supported by 16 pillars, each of a single block, 18 ft. high, and dates from the 13th cent.; it is flanked by circular arches in the Romanesque style, and is very wide; the aisles are pointed. The spot where the “Arch¬ heretic IIuss ” stood, as sentence of death by burning was pronounced on him by his unrighteous judges, is still pointed out as a stone in the centre of the nave near the pulpit. Robert Hal- lam, Bishop of Salisbury, who presided over the English deputation to the council, is buried here, in front of the high altar, under a tomb, which is very remarkable, as being of English brass ; which is fully proved by the workman¬ ship. It was probably sent over from England by his executors. He wears the Order of the Garter.. The choir and its side aisles were rebuilt end of the 13th cent. The carved woodwork of the stalls of the choir is very fine. In the N. transept is a representation of the death of tlie Virgin in figures of life size. The crypt is of the 10th or 11th cent. Two sides of the ancient cloisters, whose arches are filled in with beautiful tracery, are yet standing. In an angle of the cloisters is a curious circular building in the pointed style, in the centre of which is a Gothic rotunda, used for Good Friday cere¬ monies, which is curiously ornamented with Scriptural figures. There are some curious relics in the Sacristy , as, one of the arrows which pierced St. Sebastian, skull of St. Con¬ rad enclosed in a silver figure, piece of the true Cross, &c.; also much fine Brabant lace, and a beautiful Gothic fireplace and piscina, superior to those at Courtray. In the Vestry-room, above are a range of singular cupboards or presses of carved oak, none of a later date than the 15th cent. There is a beautiful view from the tower of the cathedral, E. over the lake and moun¬ tains of Tyrol, and AY. over the valley of the Rhine. The Dominican Convent , now a Turkey red cotton-printing establishment, is the place where IIuss was confined, but all that remained of the stone chamber itself has been removed to the Kauf- haus. The church forms a pic¬ turesque ruin, in the early style of German Gothic. The chapter-house is even older. The cloisters are perfect. The little island upon which this build¬ ing stands was fortified by the Romans, and a portion of the wall, towards the lake, can yet be discerned. In the Hall of the Kaufhaus (built 1388), looking towards the lake, the Great Council of Constance held its sit¬ tings, 1414-18, in a large room sup¬ ported by wooden pillars. That famous assembly, composed, not of bishops alone, like the ancient councils, but of deputies, civil and ecclesiastical, from the whole of Christendom, including princes, cardinals (30), patriarchs (4), archbishops (20), bishops (150), pro¬ fessors of universities and doctors of theology (200), besides a host of am¬ bassadors, inferior prelates, abbots, priors, &c., was convened for the pur¬ pose of remedying the abuses of the church; and as those abuses began with its head, the proceedings were prefaced by a declaration that a council of the church has received, by Divine right, an authority in religious matters, even over that of the Pope. It exerted its influence in curbing the Papal power, by deposing the infamous John XXIII. and Benedict XIII., and by electing in their place Martin A r . But there is one act of this council which fixes lasting and odious celebrity on it—the trea¬ cherous seizure and cruel murder of John IIuss and Jerome of Prague, in spite of the safe-conduct granted to the former by the Emperor Sigismund, the president of the assembly. The chairs occupied by the Emperor and Pope; the Bible of Huss; a model of the dungeon, now destroyed, in which he was confined, of the same 584 ROUTE 109. -FREIBURG TO SCHAFFHAUSEN. Sect. VIII. .size as the original, and in which the actual door and other fragments have been incorporated; a car which is said to be that in which he was drawn to execution; the figure of Abraham which supported the pulpit in the Minster, and which the people mistook for IIuss, and defaced accordingly; and some other relics of the council, still remain in the hall, besides a collection of Homan and German antiquities, dug Tip in the neighbourhood. 1 F. fr. is charged for admission. The house in which Huss lodged, hearing a rude likeness of him, is pointed out in the Paul’s Strasse, near the Schnetzthor. He was thrown into prison, soon after his arrival, in the Franciscan Convent , now a ruin, whence he was removed to a more irksome dungeon, affording scarcely room to move, in the before-mentioned Do¬ minican Convent. The field outside of the town, in the suburb of Briihl, in which he suffered martyrdom, with a fortitude which moved even his judges and executioners to admiration—nay, even the place where the stake was planted,—are still pointed out: rude images of Huss and Jerome, formed of clay taken from the spot, are offered for sale to the stranger. In 1415a perpetual treaty of peace (signed at Aarherg, 24 July, 1415) | was negotiated at Constance, between Sigismund of Austria and the Swiss Confederation, which put an end to the contest for the liberty of the Swiss can¬ tons, which began with the fight of Morgarten (15 Nov. 1315), and was decided by that of Sempach (9 July, 1386). Behind the Hecht inn is the house, distinguished by an elegant Gothic hay window, in which the Emperor Sigismund lodged. Constance belonged to the crown of Austria from 1549 to 1805, when, by the treaty of Presburg, it was transferred to Baden. Since 1802 it has ceased to he a bishop¬ ric. The spirit of industry is reviving, and several manufactories of cotton, two of muslin, and one of silk, have sprung up. Excursions .—To Beichenau—to the island of Meinau , about 4 m. N. of Constance, well cultivated, yet with no want of trees, forming a nice little estate. The house was once a com- mandery of the Knights of the Teu¬ tonic Order. From the terrace of the garden there is a magnificent view over the lake, of the mountains of the Vorarlberg and Appenzell, among which the Sentis is pre-eminent. Meinau is approached by a wooden foot-bridge £ m. long, connecting it with the shore ; there is an inn on the island. Railways to Zurich from Bomans- horn—to Schaffhausen in 2 hrs. Diligences to Donaueschingen, in 8 hours. Steamers daily between Constance and the different ports of the lake. They correspond with the trains to Coire at Borschach, with the Bail¬ way for Stuttgart at Friedrichshafen, and with that to Augsburg and Munich at Linclau — thus maintaining a daily communication between Constance and these cities. A steamer to Schaffhausen in 3 hrs., returning in 4 or 5, every day from April to October. The Lake of Constance is described in the Handbook for Switzerland. BOUTE 109. FREIBURG IN BREISGAU TO SCIIAFF- HAUSEN, BY THE HOLLENTIIAL. 11 Germ. m. = 51 Eng. m. Eilwd- gen between the towns: none direct. Omnibus from Freiburg to the Stern Inn daily in 4 hrs., returning in the after¬ noon. A new road from Freiburg to Schaffhausen has been for some time projected. The stages are so hilly that at least 13 hrs. are occupied on the road travelling post, exclusive of stoppages. 585 ROUTE 100. —FREIBURG TO SCHAFFHAUSEN. Baden. The valley of the Dreisam, up which the road is carried, is at its commence¬ ment near Freiburg a level and fertile plain of considerable width, bounded by gently sloping wooded hills. In the neighbourhood of l^j Burg, it begins to ascend, and in this part is styled Himmelreich (Hea¬ ven), in reference to its elevation, and in contrast to the frowning gorge which succeeds, commonly known as the Holle (Valley of Hell), which about 9 m. from Freiburg assumes a character of ro¬ mantic beauty and grandeur. Its charm lies in the rich foliage of the woods covering its steep sides, out of which project buttresses and pinnacles of bare rock, at the foot of which runs the Dreisam, bordered with turf and studded with frequent water-mills. Even here, its scenery, though wild, exhibits none of those horrors which its name would seem to imply. The narrow pass extends little more than a mile. Perhaps the most remarkable spot is that called the Hirschsprung. Through this valley Moreau executed his famous retreat of the Black Forest, with an army, in 1796, and gained by it as high a reputation for military talent as he would have acquired by a victory. The French Marshal Villars declined attempting this pass in 1702, saying he was “ not devil enough.” f Steig.— Inn , Post or Stern (Star) ; a solitary house, clean, and good fare, including capital trout, at a cheap rate. Immediately beyond the Star the road begins to ascend a steep slope, which carries it out of the Hollenthal, leaving behind it the finest scenery. 1 fl. 12 kr. is paid for an extra horse up the Hollen- stcig. At the top the road divides into 2 branches; that on the 1. goes to Donaueschingen: we continue to follow the shortest and most direct. A small lake, called Titisee ( Inn , Bessie), is passed on the rt., and another equally steep hill succeeds, which must be sur¬ mounted before reaching If Lenzkirch. — Inns: Post, best house on this road; Cheval Blanc, good. Here many wooden clocks, for which the Black Forest is famed, are made : one may be bought for 4 fl. Yorspann going to Steig. • There is a good road from Lenzkirch to Albbriick or AValdshut Stats, on the rly. from Basle to Schaffhausen, by the Lake of Schluch (7 m.), to 7 m. St. Blasien (Hotel AVeisshaar). The magnificent Benedictine Abbey of St. Blaize, now sequestrated, and turned into a factory, where spinning-jennies and fire-aims are made. The Church, built by Ixnard 1768-80, is a rotunda of somewhat larger dimensions than the Pantheon at Borne. On the dissolution of the monas¬ tery the monks removed into Carinthia, taking with them the bones of some ancestors of the house of Habsburg, who had been buried here. 2 hrs. walk is Menzenschwand, birth¬ place of the painters AVinterh alter. {Inn.) Fine panorama from the Hill of Hochenschwand. 5^ m. below St. Blasien, at Immen- eich (small Inn), begins the grand new road, the Albstrasse, through wild, rocky scenery, penetrating the cliffs in 5 or 6 tunnels, carried above the rush¬ ing Alb. At length the road converges on the valley of the Bhine at 9 m. Albbriick Stat. (See Handbook of Switzerland.) 2 Bondorf. Inn: Poste, homely, but clean. This village was burnt down in 1827. Vorspann going to Lenzkirch. At the summit of the ascent which the road makes in this stage the Lake of Constance may be descried in clear weather. Near the end of this stage is the castle of Hohenlupfen, belonging to Prince Fiirstenberg, but inhabited only by a peasant. It occupies a most commanding position on the brow of a hill, at whose foot lies 2 Stiihlingen. — Inns: Post and Hirsch. Vorspann going to Bondorf. A little further on, the AVutach, a small stream, is crossed, which forms the boundary of Switzerland. 2T Schaffhausen. — Inns : in town, Couronne; Schweitzerhof at the Falls, 2 m. from town, best. (In the Hand¬ book for Switzerland.) The l.-hand road, leading out of the Hollenthal, conducts from Steig to 1 post—Neustadt {Inn, Post; good), a town of 1500 Inliab., on the AVutach. Here and in the neighbourhood are 2 c 3 586 ROUTE 110. —HEIDELBERG TO WURZBURG. Sect. VIII. manufactured numbers of the woodon clocks for which the Black Forest is famous. The inhabitants, an indus¬ trious race, employ themselves also in polishing garnets and crystals, as well as in rearing singing birds. A very excellent cheese, sold as Swiss, is pro¬ duced in this district. 1J post—Loppingen;—thence by 1£ Donaueschingen (Rte. 108) to Schaffhausen. ROUTE 110. HEIDELBERG TO WURZBURG, BY MOSBACH. 18^ Germ. m. = 85 Eng. m. Railway open to Mosbach; 4 trains daily in 2 hrs. There is nothing of particular inte¬ rest on the way except the scenery within a few stages of Heidelberg, along the Neckar to Neckar-Gemiind Stat. Neidenstein Stat. Helmstadt Stat. Asbach Stat. Mosbach Stat. (several Inns , which appear respectable), the most consider¬ able town on the road, prettily situated on a tributary of the Neckar. Here is a fine large church. Eilwagen hence daily, in about 10 hrs., to Wurzburg. The road is very well kept, but hilly and badly engineered. There is no good sleeping- place. The distance hence to Wurz¬ burg is too great for a single day’s journey with the same horses, except in the height of summer. 2 Ober-Schefilenz.— Inn , Post; bad. 2 Buchen. 2 Hardheim.— Inn, zum Ochsen. 2^ Bischofsheim.— Inn, Badenscher Hof. “The Bavarian frontier (§76) is crossed within about 6 m. of Wurz¬ burg. A fine view is obtained of the town in approaching it. It bears some resemblance to Prague, though very inferior.”— Pr. F. 4 W urzburg, in Handbook for South Germany . (Rte. 167.) ( 587 ) INDEX. * # * In order to facilitate reference to the Routes, most of them are inserted in the Index twice ; thus the road from Hamburg -to Berlin is also mentioned under the head Berlin -* to Hamburg. Such reversed Routes are marked in the Index with an asterisk ( # ) to dis¬ tinguish them. AA. Aa, river, 87, 105 Aachen, 243 Aart, 237 Abcoude, 70 Achern, 567 Achim, 406 Adalbert, St., 435 Adenau, 305 Adersbach, rock labyrinth of, 445 Adseux, 186 Aeltre, 129 Aerschot, 190 Agimont, 200 Agriculture in Holland, 21 Ahlefeld, 404 Ahr, river, mouth of, 273 -excursion up the valley, 303 Almveiler, 304 Ahrbleichart wines, 304 Aignan, 200 Aix-IiA-Chapeli.e, 243. Con¬ gresses of, 243. Hotel de Ville, 243. Cathedral, 243. Theatre,245. Mineral springs and baths, 246. Kurhaus, 246. Boulevard, 246. -to Cologne, 243. -to Diisseldorf, 280 - * to Brussels, by Maes¬ tri cht and Louvain, 191 •- * to Liege, by Verviers, 183. —— to Treves, 323 Aken, 373 Alb, river, 585 Albbriick, 585 Albendorf, 450 Alberts Bahn, 495 Aldekerk, 241 Alexisbad, 415, 416 Alf, 309, 319 Alfeld, 405 Aiken,191,322 Alhmaar , 66 Aller, river, 406 Allerheiligen, 567 Alost, 121 Alsenz valley, 537 A lster, river, 332 Alt-Benatek, 447 ANTWERP. Alt-Breisach, 569 Alt-Bunzlau, 447 Alt-Damm, 422 Altena, 329, 385 Altenahr, 305 Altenberg on the Lahn, 529 Altenberg, abbey of, 259 Altenburg in Saxony, 499 Altenkirchen, 329, 425 Altenstein, 502 Altfelde, 430 Altona, 332 Alzei, 539 Amand, St., 108 Amay, 175 Amber fishery on the Baltic, 432 Ambleve, valley, 186 Amerongen, 86 Amersfoort, 74 Amsterdam, 49-60. Palace, 50. Town-hall, Exchange, 51. Churches, 51, Picture Gal¬ lery, 52. Charitable institu¬ tions, 55. Prisons, 55. Felix Meritis, 56. Socie¬ ties, 56. Modes of living, 56. Harbour and quay, 57. Herring fishery, 57. Dock¬ yard, 58. Manufactures, 58. Theatres, 59. Railroads, 59. Steamers, 60 -to Broek and Saardam, 60 -- * to Texel and Helder, 64 - to Utrecht and Nijme¬ gen, 70 -to Kampen, 74 -to Groningen and Frede- riksoord, 75 Anclam, 423 Andenne, 175 Andernach, 274 Andreasburg, 415 Angermunde, 420 Annaberg, 451 Annenthal, 456 Annweiler,—Castle of Trifels, 551 Ans, 190 Anseremme, 200 j Antoing Castle, 112 j Antwerp, 141-154. Cathedral and works of Rubens, 142. ARNSTADT. Spire, 145. Churches—of St. Jacques, 146 ; St. Paul, 146 St. Andrew, 147 ; Augustins, 147 ; St. Anthony, 148 ; Je¬ suits, 148 ; Museum of pic¬ tures, 148-151. Docks, 151, Citadel and siege, 152. Ho¬ tel de Ville, 152. Bourse, 153. Railways, 154 Antwerp, siege by the Duke of Parma, 120,141 -.* to London, 117 - * to Rotterdam by land, 86 -* by water, 88 -to Brussels, 155 -* to Ghent, 140 -to Turnhout, 154 Apolda, 460 Apollinarisberg, 272 Appeldoorn, 80 Appenweier, 567 Arbergen, 403 Ardenne, seat of King Leopold, 201 Ardennes, the country of, 102 ; forest of, 200 -Tour of the, 200 Ardres, 105 Argenfels, 273 Argenteau, 183 Arkona in Riigen, 425 Arlon, 196 Armentieres, 106 Arminius, 375, 389; colossal statue of, 393 Arnswalde, 434 Armouries : - Berlin, 358 - Dresden, 478 -Erbach, 556 -Wartburg, 456 Arnau,447 Arneelce, 114 Arnhem, 72 -to Cologne, 241 -* to Utrecht, 72 -to Wesel, 72 -to Zutphen, 79 Arnsberg,386 Arnsburg, 402 Arnstadt, 508 588 INDEX ARNSTEXN. Arnstein Schloss, 530 Arnual, 538 Arolsen, 386 Art, works of, in the Low Countries, 98 Artevelde, James van, 134, 135 -Philip van, 109, 135 Ashach, 586 Aschersleben, 373 Assche, 121 Assen, 76 Assesse, 195 Assmannshausen, 290 Ath, 112 Attre, 113 Audeghem, 138 Audenaerde, 110 Audruicq, 105 Auerbach, 557 Aueistadt, 460 Augustwalde, 434 Aunelle, river, 205 Auvelais, 194 Avenaye, 201 Aye, 195 B. Baal, 260 Baarn, 74 Babelsberg, 367 Bacharach, 289 Bacon, Lord, on Travel, ix Baden, duchy of, 558, 565 Baden-Baden, 570. Inns, 570. Beauties of situation, 570. Hot springs, 571. Con- versationshaus, 572. New Schloss and its dungeons, 572. Secret Tribunal, 573. Church, 574. Convent, 574. Physicians, Post Office, 574. Excursions around : Alte Schloss, 574. Ebersteinburg, Lichtenthal, Murgthal, 575. Gernsbach, 576. -to Wildbad, 576 -* to Curlsruhe, 570 -to Strasburg, 576 Badenweiler, 570 Baggage,94, 215 Bailleul, 106 Baisy, 172 Balesfeld, 324 Ballenstadt, 415 Bamberg, 505 Banteln, 405 Bardowieck, 342 Barmen, 385 Barneveld, execution of, 31 Barv, 112 Bas'Oha, 175 Bastei, The, 493 Baths : Aix-la-Chapelle, 246 - Alexisbad,416 -Baden-Baden, 570 - Badenweiler, 570 -Bertrich, 309 •-Briickenau, 455 BERLIN. Baths : Cudowa, 450 - Dobberan, 341 -Driburg, 389 - Ems, 5 11 1 - Hofgeismar, 390 -Homburg, 532 - Landeck, 449 -Liebenstein, 502 - Liebwerda, 441 -Oeynliausen, 376 -Putbus, 425 i -Pyrmont, 401 - Reinerz, 450 -Salzbruun, 447 -- Schandau, 494 -Scheveningen, 36 -Schlangenbad, 517 -Schwalbach, 514 -Swinemiinde, 421 - Warmbrunn, 443 -Wilhelmsbad, 454 Baumanns and Biels-IIohle,414 Bautzen, 410. Battle, 440 Bavarian (?) broom girls, 395 Bavay, 108 Bebra, 501 Beckum, 375 Beds, 209 Beemster in N. Holland, 69 Beilstein, 320 Belgard, 422 Belgium, 91. Introductory in¬ formation, 92-103. Pass¬ ports, 92. Money, 92. Post¬ ing, 92 ; other modes of travelling, 93. Railroads, 93. Vigilantes, 94. Inns, 95. General view of, 95. Cities of, and architecture, 96. Chimes and clocks, 98. Works of art, 98. Tour of the Meuse, 102 Belle Alliance, la, 169 Ben rath, 240 ! Bensheim, 557 I Berg, ancient duchy of, 384 Berge-Borbeck, 374 ! Bergedorf, 344 Bergen-op-Zoom, 89 Bergen, 426 Bergstrasse, 554-558 Bergues, 115 i Berlin, 345. Inns, 345. Post- office—droschkies, 346. Time¬ table of sights, 346. So- J ciety in, 347. Unter den Linden, 347. Brandenburg gate, 347. Monuments, j 348. Churches, 349. Schloss- briicke, 350. Royal Palace, 350. Prince Fred. William’s j palace, 350. Museum : vases and bronzes, 351. Sculptures, 352. Pictures, 352-354. New Museum, 354. Egyp¬ tian Museum, 355. Kunst cabinet, 356. Royal Library, 357. University, 358. Mu¬ seum of natural history, 358. BINGER. Arsenal, 358. Iron-foundry, 359. The Gewerbe Schule, 359. Theatres, 360. Music, Sing-Academie, 360. Coli¬ seum, 360. Winter gardens, 360. Restaurateurs, 360 Confectioners, 361. Best shops, 361. Post-office, 361. Environs, 361. Tegel, 361. Botanic garden, 361. Kreuz- berg, 362. Chyards, 362. Bellevue, 362. Park, 362. Reviews, 363. Berlin* to Hamburg, 344 - to Magdeburg by Pots¬ dam, 364 -to Leipzig, 368 -to Dresden,373 --* to Diisseldorf, by Hesse Cassel and Elberfeld, 384 -* to Hanover, 374 -* to Cologne, by Minden, Hanover, Brunswick, and Magdeburg, 374 -to Stettin and Swiuemiiti- de, 420 -to Danzig or Posen, 426 ; to Konigsberg, 429 - to Bromberg, 434 -to Frankfiirt-on-the-Oder and Breslau, 436 ■- to the Riesengebirge, Ilirschberg, and Warm¬ brunn, 441 Bernau, 420 Bernbtirg, 371 Berncastel, 318, 329 Bertrange, 197 Bertrich baths, 309 Berzde, 194 Bettingen, 197 Betuwe, 86 Betzdoif, 329 Bevensen, 243 Beveren, 140 Beverloo, 191 Beverungen,400 Bevervvijk, 65 Bexbach, 540 Bialoslime, 427 Biberich, 299, 522 Bieberach, 580 Bielefeld, 375 Bienenbiittel, 343 Bienvelde, 140 Biervliet, 119 Biesbosch, 83 Bingfn, 294. St. Roch’s Cha¬ pel, 294 -excursions from, 294 -to Mayence, by Ingel- heim, 534 -to Mayence up the Rhine, 295 - to Kreuznach and Saar- briick, 535 -to Treves, 328 -* to Coblenz, 294 Binger Loch, 292 INDEX 589 BINGERBRtjCK. Binger brack, 293 Birkenfeld, 538 Biscliofsheim, 535, 58G Bischofswerda, 439 Bisseghem, 115 Bitburg, 325 Black Forest at Baden, 574 -the Kinzig, 580 -sources of the Danube in, 581 Blaize, St., abbey of, 585 Blanc Misseron, 205 Blankenau,400 Blankenburg (Belgium), 129 -(Prussia), 414 - (Saxony), 506 Blankenese, 332 Blauen hill, 570 Blasewitz, 487 Blasien, St., 585 Bleichart wine, meaning of,304 Bloed-Panne, 116 Bloemendaal, 46, 129 Bliicher, 337, 341, 437, 439. His grave, 446 Blumberg, 582 Bockenheim, 394 Bode, 414 Bodenbach, 495 Bodenfelde, 400 Bodenwerder, 401 Bofzen, 400 Bois-le-Duc, 88 Boitsfort, 195 Boitzenburg, 344 Bommel, 84, 85 Bonames, 394, 534 Bondorf, 585 Bonn, 265. University, 266. Museums, 267. Poppelsdorf, 267. Minster, 267. Kreuz- berg, 268 -to Coblenz, 268 -to the valley ofthe A hr, 303 -to the Eifel, and Lake of Laach, 306 Boppart, 285 Borcette, 246 Borsdorf apples, 465 Bovsum, 390 Bouillon, 201 Boulder stones, 344 Boussu, 205 Bouvignes, 199 Bowel, 154 Boxtel, 90 -to Maestricht, 90 Brachmiihlen, 382 Brackwede, 375 Bracquegnies, 193 Brahlsdorf, 344 Braine le Comte, 203 Brandeis, 448 Brandenburg, 367 Brasses, engraved monumental, at Bruges, 125. At Gade- buseh, 345. Liibeck, 338. Nijmegen, 73. Schwerin, 341. Paderborn, 389. Posen, BRUGES. 434. Meissen, 467. Verden, 406 Braubach, 284 Brauneberger wine, 318 Braunfels-Solms, 529 Braunsberg, 430 Breda, 87 Bredelar, 386 Brederode, 46, 65 Brege river, 581 Breisach, Alt, 569 Breisgau, 568 Breitenfeld, 373 Bremen, 406. Money, 406. Territory and commerce, 406. Cathedral, Bleikeller, Rathhaus, 407. Museum, &c., 407 -* to Munden, 399 -* to Hamburg and Olden¬ burg, 342 Bremerhafen, 408 Bremm, 320 Bresi.au, 437. Churches, 438. University, 439. Commerce, wool fairs, 439 - * to Dresden, 439 -- to the Riesengebirge, 441 -to Glatz and Prague, 449 -to Schweidnitz and Lande- shut, 446 -* to Berlin, 436 -to Cracow, 450 -to Vienna, 451 Breukelen, 70 Brieg, 451 Briegach, 581 Brielle, 24 Briesen, 436 Brilon, 386 Brockedon’s Advice to Travel¬ lers, xiii, xix, xxv Broclten, ascent of 413. Spec¬ tre of the, 413. Witches, 413. View from, seldom seen, 414 Brodenbach, 322 Broek, 62 Brohl, trass-mills of, 273 -valley of, 273, 306 -to the Lake of Laach, Mayen, and Liitzerath, 396 Bromberg, 427 -to Danzig and Berlin, 429 Bromserburg, 295 Bromserhof, 295 Broom girls, 395 Bruchsal, 563 Briickenberg (Norwegian Ch.), 443 Bruckman, 455 Brudeldreis, 327 Brugelette, 113 Bruges, 124. Churches, 124. Paintings of Memling at, 125, 126, 127. Hotel de Ville, 126. Palais de Jus¬ tice, 127. Academy, 127. Les Halles, 128 BUTZBACII. Bruges* to Calais, 116 -- to Courtrai, 139 -to Ghent, 129 Briihl, 265 Brummen, 79 Brunnen of Nassau, 511-523 Brunsberg, 400 Brunswick, 379. Palace, 379. Museum, 379. Albert Dii- rer’s St. John in the Wil¬ derness, 379. Cathedral, 380. Black Brunswickers, 381. -to Berlin, by Magdeburg, 374. Brussels, 158-165. Park, 159. King’s Palace, 159. Palace of the Duke of Brabant, 159. Chambers, 159. Museums, 159, 160, 163. Library, 160. Hotel de Ville, 161. Brood- lmis, 161. Cathedral of St. Gudule, 161. Notre Dame de la Chapelle, 162. Prison des Petits Carmes, 162. Eng¬ lish church, theatre, post- office, 163. Railroads, 163. Carriages, 164. Shops, 164. Lace, 164. Promenades and environs, 164. Excursion to Waterloo, 165 ; to Tervueren, 165 -- * to Calais, by Lille, 103] -*to Malines and Ant¬ werp, by railroad, 155 - to Liege, Waterloo, Na¬ mur, &c., 165 -to Liege, by Louvain, 187 -to Aix-la-Chapelle, by Maestricht, 191 -to Luxemburg, bv Namur, 195 -to Paris, by Mons, 202 -to Paris, by Ottignies, &c., 205. Brustem, battle of, 191 ‘ Bubbles,’ utility of the, 515 Biiclien, 337, 344, 586 Biichenbeuern, 328 Biiekeburg, 376 Biiderich, 238 Buhl, 566 Buiksloot, 61 Buir, 249 Buissiere, la, 206 Buke, 389 Bunzlau, 437 - to Hirschberg, Warm- brunn, and Landeshut, 441 Burg, 368, 585 Burgdorf, 343 Burial-grounds, German, 230 Burresheim, 307 Bursfelde, 399 Burtscheid, 247 Biitgenbacli, 324 Buttlar, 455 Butzbach, 395 590 INDEX CADSAND. c. Cadsand,118 Calais, 103 -to Brussels, by Lille, 105 -to Courtrai, by Dunkirk and Ypres, 113 -to Bruges, 116 -to Cologne, 193 Calcar, 242 Calkum, 239, 374 Camperdovvn, 66 Camptliout, 88 Canals in Holland, 12 Canal, Great, of North Hol¬ land, 61 Capelle-aux-Bois, 139 Capellen, 88, 283 Carden, 320 Carlsbad, 501, 507 Carlshafen, 400 Carlsruhe, 564. Its origin, palace, 564. Bleithurm, 564. Theatre, other buildings, 564 -to Baden, 570 •-to Strasburg, 576 -to Basle, 563 - * to Heidelberg, 563 Carolinenhorst, 422 Carriage travelling, xxi Carvin, 107 Cassel in France, 114 Cassel, Hesse, 396. Palace, museum, 396. Pictures, 397. Marble bath, 398. Wil- helmshohe, 398 -to Berlin, 384 -to Hanover, 403 -to Gottingen and the Harz, 403 -* to Diisseldorf, 384 -- * to Frankfurt, 394 ——• to Coburg, by Eisenach and Meiningen, 501 Castel on the Rhine, 299, 534 Castles on the Rhine, 290 Catenes, 322 Caub,288 Caxton, William, 128/251 Celle, 343 Celles, 201 Cerfontaine, 195 Champion, 186 Charity, Society of, 76 Charlemagne’s grave, 244 Charlemont, 200 Charleroi, 194 -to Virieux and Morialme, 194 Charles V., 136 Charlottenburg, 362 Chatelineau, 194 Chaudfontaine, 183 Chemnitz, 498 Chenee, 183 Chimes, or carillons, 98 Chokier, 176 COLOGNE. Churches, English, abroad,— Rotterdam, 27. Amsterdam, 52. Ghent, 137. Brussels, 163. Hamburg, 335. Wies¬ baden, 522. Homburg, 533. Heidelberg,563. Baden, 574. Ciney, 195. Circles of Germany, 217 Circular notes, xiv Claustha!,4l0. School of Mines, 410. Mint, 410. Reservoirs, smelting-houses, 411 Cleves, 241 Clothes for travelling, xxiii Clotten, 320 Clubs, 230 Cobern, 322 Coblenz, 277-282. Fortifica¬ tions of, 278. Good head¬ quarters for travellers on the Rhine, 281. Church of St. Castor, and fountain, 279. Courts of justice, 280. Plea¬ sant excursions from, 281 -to Mayence,up the Rhine, 283 -to Miinster-Maifeld and Elz, 308 -to Treves, by post-road, 308 -, # up the Mo¬ selle, 317 -to Frankfurt, by the Brunnen of Nassau, 511 Coburg— described, 503 -* to Eisenach, 501 -*to Gotha and Gottingen, 504 - * to Leipzig by Rudol- stadt, 505 Cocliem, 320 Coins, tables of foreign, xxxvi —xxxix Cologne, 249. Historical as¬ sociations, 250. Decline and revival, 251. Cathedral, 252. Shrine of the three kings, 253. Dom-bild, 254. Church of St. Cunibert, 254. St. Ursula and 11,000 Virgins, 254. Jesuits, 254. St. Gereon, 255. Apostles, 255. Church of St, Peter, and Rubens’ Crucifixion, 256. Santa Maria, 256. Other churches and build¬ ings, 257, 258. Museum of pictures, 257. Eau de Co¬ logne, 258 -to Frankfurt, by Siegburg and Giessen, 329 -to Altenberg Abbey, 259 -* to Aix-la-Chapelle, 243 --to Bonn and Coblenz, up the Rhine, 261 -- * to Diisseldorf, 237 -to Berlin, by Elberfeld, , 384 ! -—- to Berlin, by Minden, 374 DARMSTADT. Cologne to Brunswick, 388 -to Hanover, 374 -* to Nijmegen or Arn¬ hem, 237, 241 Comines, 115 Commissionaire, xxv Constance — described, 582. Minster, 583 - council of, 583 -* to Schaffhausen, 584 Contich, 155 Continent, landing on the, xxv Conz, 198 Copernicus at Frauenburg, 430 ; his birthplace, 427 Corbetha, 461 Corneli-Miinster, 323 Corplialie, 175 Correggio’s “ Notte,” 474 Cortenbosch, 191 Corvey, 400 Cdslin, 422 Coster, 44 Coswig, 370 Cot hen, 371 Couriers, xix Court St. Etienne, 205 Courtrai, 108 Cracow, 451, and S. Germ, Handbook Cranach, L., his grave, 461 Crefeld, 241 Creil, 206 Cudowa, 450 Cuesmes, 204 Culm, 427 Cus, 318 Custom-houses abroad, xxv; in England, xxvi -German, 210 -of Prussia, 233 Ciistrin, 426 Cuxhaven,332 D. Dahn,552 Damme, 129 Dammgarten, 342 Danholm, 423 Dannecker’s Ariadne, 526 Danube, source of the, 581 Danzig, 427. Granaries, ca¬ thedral, 427. Picture by J. Memling, 427. Artus Hof, fortifications, 428. Lang- gasse, 428. Duke of, 428 -to Marienburg and Ko- nigsberg, 429 -- * to Berlin, 420, 426 -* to Stettin, by Brom¬ berg, 434 Darmstadt, 552. Catholic church, palace, pictures, 553. Fossils, 553. Theatre, Exercier Haus, 553. Gar¬ dens, Casino, wild boars, 554 INDEX 591 DARMSTADT. Darmstadt to the Odenwald, 552 -to Heidelberg and Carls- ruhe, 552 -* to Frankfurt, 552 Daun,327 Dausenau, 514 Deidesheim, 550 Delft, 28 Delfzijl, 78 Delmonhorst, 343 Demker, 419 Dender, river, 121, 138 Dendermonde or Termonde, 138 Dendleeuw, 121 Denis, St., Bovesse, 195 Dennewitz, 369 Denzlingen, 568 Dessau, 37 0 Detmold, 394 Deutz, 258. Good inn, 249, 258 Deux Ponts, 540 Deventer, 79 Deynze, 110 Dhorn, 248 Diebelich, 322 Diekirch, 198 Diemel, river, 390 Diemer, river, 190 Dieren, 79 Dietkirchen, 530 Dietz, 530 Dill, valley, 329 Dillenburg, 329 Dinant, 199 -to Givet,'.2 00 - to Hans-sur-Lesse and Bouillon, 200 Dingelstadt, 504 Dinglingen, 567 Dinslaken, 238 Dirschau, 427, 429 Ditmarschen, 332 Dixmude, 116 Dobberan, 341 Dochweiler, 327 Dolhain, 187 Dolitz, 434 Dollars, Prussian, 234 ; Saxon, 453 Dollart, river, 78 Dollnitz, vale, 466 Dolme, 401 Dommel, river, 90 * Donaueschingen, source of Danube, 581 - * to Offenburg, 580 -to Schaffliausen, 582 -to Freiburg, 584 Donnersberg, 539 Dort, or Dordrecht, 83 --Synod of, 83 Dortmund, 374 Dossenhein, 563 Douai, 107 Dover to Calais and Brussels, 103 -to Ostend, 122 Drachenfels, 270 DUTCH. Drakenburg, 403 Dransfeld, 404 Dreisam valley, 585 Dreiser-Weiher, 327 Dreschenich, 322 Dresden," 468. Post-office, 468. Elbe bridges, 469. Churches and church music, 470. Terrace of Bril hi, 470. Palace, 470. Collections— mode of obtaining admission, 468, 469. Green Vault, 470. Picture gallery, 473. Plaster casts, 477. Print Room, 478. Zvvinger, 478. Armoury, 478. Museum of natural history, 482. Japanese pa¬ lace, 482. Antiquities, 482. Porcelain, 483. Library, 484. Theatre, 485. Shops, cafes, gardens, 485. Envi¬ rons, 486. Moreau’s monu¬ ment, 486. Dance of Death, 486. Baths of Link, 487. Schiller’s summer-house, 487. Weber’s house, 487. - to the Saxon Switzer¬ land, 488 - # to Berlin, 373 -to Breslau, 439 -* to Leipzig and Frank¬ furt, 454, 466 -to the Bastei, 488 -- to Schandau, 488 - to Hof, 495 -to Plauensche Grund and Tharand, 495 —— to Zittau and Reichen- berg, 448 Driburg, 389 Driebergen, 72 Driesen, 426 Duffel, 155 Duisburg, 238 Duiven, 237 Dumpelfeld, 305 Dunes of Holland, 15 -battle of the, 116 Duns Scotus, tomb, 257 Dunkirk, 113 -to Bruges, 116 Duren, 248 Diirkheim, 550 Durlach, 563 Durrenberg, 463 Dusemond, 318 Dusseldorf, 239. School of painting, 239 -to Berlin, by Elberfeld, 384 -to Cologne, 240 -* to Arnhem, 237 -to Osnabrilck, by Munster, 390 -*to Rotterdam, 240 -- to Bremen, 406 Diisselthal, 240 Dutch manners, peculiarities of, 18 EMBDEN. Dutch clocks, 581,586 Dutch school of art, 17 Duttweiler, 538 Dykes of Holland, 9 Dyle, river, 155, 188 E. Eberbach, 297,519. Cellars of, 298 Ebersteinburg, 575 Ebernburg, Sickingen’s Castle, 536 Eblingham, 106 Echternach, 198. Abbey, 198 Eck, 86 Eckliardsberge, 460 Edenkoben, 551 Ediger, 320 Eekeren, 88 Eger, valley, 507 Egmont, ruins of, 66 Ehrenbreitstein, 281 Ehrenberg, 322 Ehrenfels, 292 Ehrenthal, 286 Eibenstock, 501 Eichelskamp, 239 Eichsfeld, 504 Eifel, the Upper, 326 -the Lower, 306, Inhabit¬ ants of, 324 -excursions in, 306 Eilsen, 376 Eimbeck, 404 Eindhoven, 90 Eisenach, 456. Wartburg, 456 Eisfeld, 503 Eisleben, Luther’s birthplace, 387 Eitorf, 329 Elbe, mouth of the, 332. Islands formed by, 368. Sources of, 444. In Saxony, the most beautiful parts of its course, 488 -from Schandau to Dres¬ den, 494. Elberfeld, 384 -to Berlin, 384 -to Hanover, 342 -* to Cologne, 388 Elbing, 430 Elbingerode, 414 Elder, river, 332 Electors of Germany, 218 Elend,414 Elewyt, 157 Elgersburg, 508 Eller, 320 Elsfieth, 343 Elten, 237 Eltville, 298, 519 Else, 405 Elster, valley, 373. River, 465 Elz , valley, 309, 321. Castle of, 321 Embden, 78 592 INDEX, EMMENDINGEN. Emmendingen, 568 Emmerich, 238 Ems, 511 -to Frankfurt, 511 Engen, 582 Engers, 276 -(Westphalia), 376 -river, 78 Engliien, 112 Enghien, Duke, his treach¬ erous seizure, 567 Engis, 175 English Church on the Conti¬ nent, xxvii Enkhuisen, 69 Enkircli, 31 9 Ensival, 187 Eppstein, 531 Erasmus, 26 Erbach, 297 Erbacli in the Odenwald, 555 Erdmannsdorf, 445 Erft, valley, 249 Erfurt, 458 -to Coburg, 507 Erkelenz, 260 Erkerath, 384 Erkner, 436 Erpeler Lei, 272 Erquelines, 206 Erzgebirge, 501 Eschede, 343 Eschweiler, 248 Esemael, 190 E-quelbecq, 114 Essclien, 88 Essen, 374 Etten, 87 Ettenbach, river, 567 Ettenheim, 567 Ettlingen, 565 Ext.ersteine, 393 Extra post, 212, 233 Eyck, Van, school of, 98. Paintings of, at Berlin, 353. At Ghent, 132 Eylau, 432 Eysden, 183 F. Facliingen, 530 Falkcmlei, 309 Falkenstein, 532 Farcienne-, 194 Fees of Prussian physicians, 228 Felirbellin, 345 Feignies, 204 Feldberg, 532 Felsenmeer, 555 Fexhe, 190 Field of the Cloth of Gold, 105 Filehne, 427 Fischbach, 445 Fischbeck, 402 FREIBURG. Flemalle, 176 Flemish school of painting, 98-102 Fleurus, 206 Fliessem, 325 Flohe, 498 Floreffe, 194 Florenville, 202 Flushing, 118 Fontenoy, 112 Forbach, 539, 549, 576 “ Forest of Arden,” 196 Forst, 550 Forum Hadriani, site of, 37 Frameries, 204 Franchimont, 184 Francorchamps, 325 Franeker, 75 Frankenstein, 449, 549 Frankenthal, 543 Frankfurt on the Main, 523. Inns, Old and New Town, 523. Cathedral, 523. Rdmer, 524. Saalhof, 524. Stiidal Museum of pictures, 525. Senkenberg Museum, 526. Dannecker’s statue of Ariadne,526. Public library, 526. Birthplace of Gothe and of the Rothschilds, 526. Jews, 526. Fairs, 527. Diet, 527. Theatre, 527. Casino, 527. Shops, public gardens. 528. Cemeteries, 523. Ex¬ cursions, 528 -to Leipzig, by Gotha, Erfurt, Weimar, 454 - to Cassel and Berlin, 394 -to Cassel and Hanover, 394 -* to Coblenz and the Brunnen of Nassau, 511 - * to Mayence, 534 -* to Homburg and the Taunus, 531 -to Basle, by Darmstadt, Heidelberg, Carlsruhe, 552 -to Baden-Baden and Stras- burg, 570, 576 Frankfurt on the Oder , 436 -* to Breslau, 436 -to Hirschberg and Warm- brunn,441 Frauenberg, 431 Frauenstein, 299, 518 Frederich the Great, at Rheins- berg, 345. At Lissa, 438. At Rossbach, 463. Relics of, at Berlin, 356. His tomb and sword, 364. His palace of Sans Souci, 365. His death, 365. Frederiksoord, pauper colony of, 76 Freiberg, 496. Church, 496. School of Mines, 497. Mines and miners, 497 Freiburg, 447 GERMANY. Freiburg in Breisgau, 568. Beautiful Minster, 568. Uni¬ versity, 569 -to SchafThausen, by the Valley of Hell, 584 -to Basle, 569 Freiwaldau, 451 Freyenwalde, 420 Freyr, 200 Friedberg, 394 Friedland, battle, 432 - Wallenstein’s castle, 441 . Friedrichsfeld, 558 Friedrichsruhe, 344 Friedrichsstein, 275 Friesak, 345 Friesdorf, 268 Friesland, 75 Fritzlar, 396 Froissart, 135 Fronhausen, 395 Fulda, 455 Furnes, 116 Fiirstenberg, 400, 436 Filrstenherg, 582. Palace of Prince, 581 Fiirstenstein Castle, 447 Fiirstenwalde, 436 Fynoord, 83 G. Gadebusch, 345 Galen, Bishop, 391 Gaming-houses, German, 228 Gandersheim, 390 Gardens, Dutch, 15 Garz, 424 Geilenkirchen, 260 Geilnau, 530 Geisenheim, 296 Geldern, 241 Gelnhausen, 454 Gelsenkirchen, 374 Gembloux, 195 Genappe, 172 Gender, river, 90 .< Gengenbach, 580 Genthin, 368 Georgen, St., 581 Georgenborn, 518 Gera, 461, 507 Germany. — Preliminary in¬ formation, 207-231. Pass¬ ports and police regulations, 207. Inns, 207. Tables- d’hute, 208. Beds, 209. Va- lets-de-place, 209. Custom¬ houses, 210, Coinage, 211. Distances, travelling - maps, 211. Modes of travelling, posting, 212. Schnellposts, 212. Voiturier, 213. Rail¬ ways, 214. Baggage, 215. Ac¬ count of, 216. Peculiarities of German manners, 220. Public gardens and taverns, 222. Kirmes, 223. Turn- INDEX 593 GERMAN. pikemen, 224. Handwerks- burschen, 224. Watering- places, 225. Music, 228. Clubs and reading-rooms, 230. Burial-grounds, 230. German doctors’ fees, 228 Germersheim, 548 -to Strasburg, 549 Gernrode, 417 Gernsbach, 576 Gernsheim, 541 Gerolstein, 327 Gerresheim, 384 Gerstungen, 501 Gesecke, 389 Geule, valley, 187 Gheel, 154 Ghent, 129-138, Belfry, 131. Cathedral of St. Bavon, 131. Paintings of Van Eyck, 132. University, 133. Hotel de Ville, 134. Museum, 134. Marche au Vendredi, 134. The English at Ghent, 135. Charles V., 136. Citadel, 136. Beguinage, 137. By- loque, 137. House of Cor¬ rection, 137 -* to Bruges, 129 -to Antwerp, 140 -* to Oudenarde, 110 -to Brussels, 121 Ghislain, St., 204 Ghistelles, 117 Oiessen, —University, &c., 395 -to Coblenz, 529 -descent of the Lahn from, 529 Gillenfeld, 328 Gingelom, 190 Gitschin, 447 Givet, 200 Gladbach, 260 Glatz, 449 Gleiwitz, 451 Glewitz, 423 Glogau, 436 Glowen, 345 Gliicksbrunn, 502 Gliickstadt, 332 Gnadau, 373 Gnadenberg, 437 Gniesen, 435. Cathedral, 435. St. Adalbert, 435 Goar, St., 286 Goarshausen, 286 Goch, 241. Godelheim, 400 Gudesberg, 269 -to the Seven Mountains, 269 -to the Ahr Valley, 303 Godfrey de Bouillon, 201 - Godinne, 199 Gogolin, 451 Golleck, 419 Goldene Aue, 387 Gollheim, 539 Gondorf, 322 Gorcum, 84 HAARLEM. Gdrlitz, 440 Goslar, 411. Relic of Cathedral and altar of Krodo, 412. Rammelsberg, 41 2 Gosselies, 193 Gossnitz, 500 Gotha, 458 Gdthe, the poet’s birthplace, 526. House and collections, 460 Gottingen, 404. University, 404. Library and Museum, 404 -to the Harz, 408 -* to Cassel, 403 -to Gotha, 504 Gouda, 80. Painted glass at, 80 Gouy-lez-Pieton, 193 Granch, 313 Grabow, 345 Grafenberg, 450, 451 Grafenthal, 506 Grammont, 121 Graudenz, 427 Gravelines, 113 Grebenstein, 390 Greifenstein, 506 Greifswald, 423 Groenendael, 195 Groningen, 76 -to Leer, 78 Groschen, 234. Netigroschen, 453 Gross-Beeren, 368 Grossenbaum, 374 Gross-Gerau, 554 Gross-Gorschen, battle of, 462 Gross-Kreutz, 367 Gross-Oschersleben, 382 Gross-Salza, 373 Grotenberg, 393 Grotius, escape from prison, 84 Griinau, 430 Grupont, 195 Guben, 436 Guilders, Dutch, 2 Guillemins, 176 Gujsnes, 105 Gills, 323 Guntersblum, 541 Guntershausen, 396, 501 Giirzenich, 248 Giisen, 368 Gustavus Adolphus landing in Germany, 421. His death at Liitzen, 461. On the Rhine, 541 Gutemberg, the inventor of printing, 302 Gutenfels, 288 Giitersloh, 375 H. Haarlem, 43-49. Organ, 43. Tulips, 45, Museum, 45. Siege, 46. Lake of, 48 -to Amsterdam, 48 HANOVER. Haarlem to Alkmaar and the Helder, 64 Hadmersleben, 382 Haecht, 188 Haerlebeke, 109 Half, river, 431 Hagelskaul, 327 Hagen,329,385 Hagenau, 552 Hagenossen, 401 Hagenovv, 340, 344 Hague, 30-36. Binnenhof, 31. Picture gallery, 31. Ja¬ panese Museum, 34. His¬ torical relics, 35. Royal library, 35. Medals, 35. Private cabinets, 35. Statues, 35. Storks, 36. Theatre, 36. House in the Wood, 36. Scheveningen, 36 ( -to Leiden, 37 Hainau, 437 Hal, 203 Halbau, 437 Halberstadt, 418 Halfweg, 49 LIali.e, 371. University, 371. Orphan House, 372. Salt springs, 372 - Ilalloren, 372 | Hameau, 194 I Hambach, 551 I Hamburg, 332. Money, 332. j Trade, 333. Fire of 1842, 333. Costumes, 333. Build¬ ings, 334. Institutions, 334. Jungfernstieg, 334. Theatres, 335. Ramparts, 335. Eng¬ lish church, 335. Environs, 336 -* to London, 331 -to Liibeck, 337 -to Bremen, 343 -to Hanover, 342 -to Stralsund, 340 -to Dobberanand Rostock, 340 -to Berlin, 344 -to Leipzig, 418 | Hameln, 401. t Hamilton, Capt., on Travel, xii ! Hamm, 375, 388 j Hammer, 452 j Hammerstein, 274 Hanau, 454 Handscliuhsheim, 563 Handwerksburschen, 224 Handzaeme, 117 Hanover, 377. Palace, 377. Waterloo monument, 378. Leibnitz’s monument, 378. Church, 378. Library, 378. Picture Gallery, 378. Herr- enhausen, 378 -to Bremen, 406 -to Brunswick, 342 -* to Hamburg, 342 -* to Gottingen, 403 -* to Frankfurt, by Cassel, 403 594 INDEX HANOVER. Hanover* to Berlin, 374 - * to Cologne, by Minden, 374 IPan-sur-Lesse, cave of, 196 Hansbeke, 129 Hansdorf, 436 Hanseatic League, 339 Harburg, 342 Hardevvijk, 74 Hardheim, 586 Harlingen, 75 Harmeten, 81 Hartekamp, 46 Harz, the, 408-418. Gene¬ ral account of, exaggerated descriptions of its scenery, 408. Points usually visited, 409. Plan for tour of, 409. Roads, 409. Mines, 410, 411 Ilarzburg, 381, 412 Harzgerode, 416 Hasselt, 191 Hasslach, 580 Haste, 377 Hastenbeck, 401 Hastieres, 200 Hattem, 74 Hattenheim, 297 Hatterslieim, 531, 535 Hatto, Bishop, and the rats, 292 Hatzenport, 322 Hausach, 580 Hautmont, 204] Havel, river, 345, 367 Havre, 193 Haye Sainte, la, 168 Ilazebrouck, 106 Hedersdorf, 328 Helilen, 401 Heidelberg, 558. Its mis¬ fortunes, 558. University and library, 559. Club, 559. Churches, 559. Olym¬ pia Morata’s grave, 560. Castle, 560. Tun, 562. Gar¬ den, walks, 562. Hirschgasse, 562. Kdnigstuhl, 562. Wolfs- brunnen, 563 -to Carlsruhe and Baden, 563 -* to Schvvetzingen and Mannheim, 545 -* to Darmstadt and’Frank- furt, 552 -- to Wurzburg, 586 Heidenmauer, 550 Heiligenstadt, 386, 506 Heimburg, 290 Heinsen, 401 Heisterbach, ruined abbey of, 269 Helder, 67. Great dyke of, 67 -to Amsterdam, 6S Helenenberg, 325 Heligoland, 331 Hell, Valley of, 584 Helldorf, 240 Hellvoetsluis, 25 Helme, river, 387 HOLZMINDEN. Helmstadt, 382, 586 Hemsbach, 557 Hennef, 329 Heppenheim, 557 Heppingen, 304 Herbesthal, 187 Herbeumont, 202 Plerenthals, 154 Herford, 375 Hermsdorf, 443 Herne-Bochum, 374 Herring fishery, 25, 57 Herrmann’s Monument, 393 Herrenhausen, 378 Herrnhut, 448 Herrnskretschen, 495 Herstal, 182 Herstelle, 400 Hertliaburg, 425 Hertogensbosch, 88 Herzberg, 373 Herzogenrath, 260 Hetseratli, 309, 329 Heteren, 86 Heule, 109 Heuscheuer, 450 Hiddensoe, 426 Hildburghausen, 503 Hildesheim, 405 Plillesheim, 326 Hillegomerbeek, 43 Hirschberg, 443 Hirschenstand, 507 Hoche, obelisk to, 276 Hochdahl, 384 Hochheim vineyards, 534 Hochkirch, battle of, 440 Hochst, 535 Hochstein, 492 Hoegne, valley of, 184 Hof, 500 Hofgeismar, 390 Hohenelbe, 447 Hohen Siegburg, 239 Hohen Syburg, 368 Hohentwiel, 582 Hohenwarte, 368 Hohnstein, 431, 492, 516 Holland, introductory infor¬ mation, 1-24. Passports, 1. Money, 2. Custom-house, 2. Railroads, posting, diligen¬ ces, roads, tolls, 2. Trek- schuiten, 3. Drinking water, 5. Inns, Cafes, 5. General view of, 5. Dykes, 9. Canals, 12, Polders, turbaries, and peat, 12. Dunes, 15. Gar¬ dens and summer-houses, 15. Paintings, picture-galleries, 17. Manners of the inha¬ bitants, 18. Music, 20. Agri-. culture, 21. Pierring fishery, 2o, 5 i • Holland, North, 60-70 Hollenthal, 584 Holm, 428 Holzappel, 530 | Holzemme, river, 418 J Holzminden, 400 JEMAPPES. Homberg, 238, 260 Homburg, Hesse, 532 -Carriage tour from, 531 -in Rhenish Bavaria, 540 Hondsbosclie, 66 Hooghstraeten, 88 Hoorn, 69 Horcheim, 213 Horn, 393 Hornberg, 580 Hornu, 204 Horrem, 249 Horrem-Dormagen, 242 Hougoumont, 170 House in the Wood,Hague, 36 Hoxter, 400 Hoxter to Pyrmont, 400 Hoya, 403 IPubbad, 566 Hubertsburg, 464 Hubert, St., 196 Hudibras, author of, his de¬ scription of Holland, 8 Huissen, 86 Hulpe, la, 195 Hiimme, 390 Hundsrilck, 328 Hiinfeld, 457 Hunte, river, 343 Huss, John, trial and execu¬ tion of, 583, 584 Huy, 175 I. Idar, 537 Igel, Roman monument at, 316 Ihna, river, 422 Ilbenstadt, 394 lime, river, 404 Ilmenau, 508 Ilsenburg, 413 Inde, river, 248 Ingelheim, palace of Charle¬ magne, 534 Ingelmunster, 139 Ingramsdorf, 446 Inns and Innkeepers, xxvi Insterburg, 433 Interment, prevention of pre¬ mature, 231 Irrlicli, 275 Iseghem, 139 Iserlohn, 385 Ixelles, 166 J« Jabb eke, 124 Jager, the Wild, legend of, 556 Jahde, 408 Jambes, 199 Jausenists, 71 Jansenius, 189 Jaromierz, 450 ! Jemappes, 204 INDEX, 595 JEMELLE. Jemelle, 196 Jemeppe, 176 Jena, battle-field, 462 ; uni¬ versity, 507 Jersheim, 382 Jeumont, 206 Jews of Amsterdam, 52 -at Brussels, 162 -at Frankfurt, 526 -at Strasburg, 579 -at Worms, 543 Johann-Georgenstadt, 501 Johannisberg, 296. Wine, 296 Josephstadt, 450 Juliers, 260 Julin, 422 Jung-Bunzlau, 447 Jupille, 182 Jurbise, 113, 203 Juslenville, 184 Jiiterbog, 369 Kahla, 505 Kaisersesch, 309 Kaiserslautern, 539 Kaiserswerth, 239 Kalbe, 373 Kalscheuren, 265 Kaltenherberg, 323 Kamburg, 505 Kamen, 375 Kamp, 285 Kampen, 74 Kandrzin, 451 Kanth, 446 Karlsberg, 450 Karlshafen, 400 Kastrop, 374 Katwijk, the Rhine at, 41, 85 Katz, 422 Katzbacli, 437. Battle of the, 437 Kehl , 576. Steamboat from, 549 Kellberg, 326 Kelmienen, 433 Kemnade, 401 Kempen, 241 Kenzingen, 567 Kesselheim, 276 Kevelaer, 241 Kidricli, 298 Kiel, 336 Kinzig, valley of the, 580 Kippenheim, 567 Kircheim Boland, 539 Ivirchweiler, 327 Kirchberg, 328 Kirmes, 223 Kirn, 537 Klarenthal, 519 Klausthal, 410 Klein-Ankerholz, 422 Kleinen, 341 Kleinenbroich, 260 Klopstock’s grave, 336. Birth¬ place, 418 LANDECK. Kloster Launitz, 507 Knielingen, 549 Kohlfurt, 437, 441 Kolilscheid, 260 Kolberg, 422 Koln, 249 Ivoniggratz, 450 Konigsberg, 430. Palace, Ca¬ thedral, 431. University, 432. Pillau, sturgeon and amber fishery, 432 -to Tilsit and Memel, 433 -* to Danzig, 429 Konigsborn, 375 Konigsdorf, 249 Kdnigshiitte, 451 Konigstein in Saxony, 489-493 Konigstein in the Taunus, 532 -to Soden,532 Konigsstulil, 284, 425, 562 Kbnigs Weinberg, 487 Konigswinter, 269 Kbnigszelt, 447, 449 Kbpenik, 436 Ivork, 576 Korner’s grave, 345 Kosel, 451 Kosen, 460 Koslin, 422 Kostritz, 461 Kotlien, 371, 373 Kotomiers, 427 Kranenburg, 241 Kreiensen, 390 Kreutz, 426, 434 Kreutzers, 509 Kreuzberg, near Bonn, 268 -in the Ahr valley, 305 Kreuznach, 535 -to Worms by Alzei, 543 Krieblowitz, grave of Bliicher at, 439 Krimmitschau, 500 Krimpen, 85 Krippen, 494 Krotzingen, 569 Kuhstall, 494 Kuilenburg, 85 Kunersdorf, battle of, 436 Kuppersteg, 374 Kyffhauser, 387 Kyll river, 327 Kynast, castle and legend, 443 Laach, Lake of, 306. Excur¬ sion to, 306. Abbey of, 307 Lace manufacture, 157, 164 Ladenburg, 558 Laeken, palace of, 158 Lahn, the river, mouth of, 284, 511. Descent of, from Gies¬ sen to Ems, 529 Lahnstein, 284 Lahr, 567 Landau, 551 Landeck, 449 LIGHT AERT. Landeghem, 129 Landelies, 206 Landen,190 Landeshut, 445, 447 Landrecies, 206 Landsberg, 426 Landskrone, castle of, 304, 541 Landstuhl, 539 Langenbogen, 387 Langenbriicken, 563 Langenfeld, 374 Langensalza, 504 Langen-Schwalbach, 514 Langenweddingen, 382 Langerwehe, 248 Languages, value of foreign, to the traveller, xiv. Langwedel, 406 Lanneken, 191 La Roche, 186 La Trappe, 155 Lauenburg, 344, 422 Lauenforde, 400 Laufzettel, 212 Laurenburg, 530 Lausitz, Lusatia, 439 Lautenbach, 567 Lauter, river, 549, 552 Leau, 190 Lede, 121 Leer, 79 Leeuwarden, 75 Leforest, 107 Lelirte, 343, 379 Leiden, 37-42. Siege of, 38. University, 39. Museum of Natural History, 40. Egyp¬ tian Museum, 40. Library, 40. Japanese Museum, 40. Botanical garden, 41 -to Haarlem and Amster¬ dam, 42 Leine, river, 377, 405 Leipzig, 463. University, 463. Auerbach’s cellar, 464. Gar¬ dens, 465. Fairs, 465. Book- trade, 465. Battle of, 464 -* to Berlin, 368 - to Dresden, 466 -* to Frankfurt, 454 - to Hof, by railway to Altenburg, 499 -to Carlsbad, 501 -to Coburg, 505 Lek, 83, 84, 237 ; from Rotter¬ dam to Arnhem, 85 Lekker Kerk, 85 Lemgo, 394 Lenne, 385 Lens, 113 Lenzkircli, 585 Leopoldshafen, 549 Leopoldsliohe, 570 Lesse, river, 206 Lessines, 121 Leuze, 112 Lewin, 450 Ley, 323 Lichtaert, 155 596 INDEX LICHTENFELS. Lichtenfels, 504, 505 Lichtenstein, 498 Lichtenthal, 575 Lichtervelde, 117, 139 Liebeneck, 285 Lieber.stein, 285 - Baths in the Thiiringer Wald, 502 Liebethaler Grund, 490 Liebewerda Baths, in Bohe¬ mia, 441 Liebfrauenmilch, 542 Liege, 176. Coal-mines, 177. Bi¬ shop’s palace, 177. Clmrches, 177. University, 180. Wal¬ loon dialect, 180. Localities and events of‘Quentin Dur- ward,’ 180. Historical notice, 181. Environs, 182 -to Chaudfontaine and Spa, 183 -to Aix la-Chapelle, by Verviers, 183 -* to Louvain, 187 -*to Namur, 174 Liegnitz, 437 Lierre, 154 Ligne, 112 Ligny, 205 Lilienstein, 491, 492 Lille, 106 -- to Brussels, 107, 108, 110 Lillo Fort, 119 Limburg in Belgium, 187 - on the Lalin, 530 -- on the Lenne, 385 Lindern, 260 Linge, river, 84 Lingen, 79 Link, 487 Linnaeus’s residence in Hol¬ land, 4 3 Linz on the Rhine, 272 Lippe, river, 238 Lippe Detmold, 394 Lippstadt, 388 Lippoldsberge, 400 Lissa, battle of, 437 Lixlie, 183 Lobau, 440 Lobbes, 206 Lobitb, 237 Lobshorn, stud at, 394 Lochmiihle, 304 Loccum Abbey, 406 Lodelinsart, 206 Loevestein, Grotius’s prison, 84 Lohmen, 490 Lohnbedienter, 209 Lohne, 376 Lolinkutscher, 213 Lokeren, 140 Lomme, valley, 196 Lompretz, 201 London to Rotterdam, 24 -to Ostend, 122 - to Antwerp, 117 -to Hamburg, 331 Longlier, 196 MAASTRICHT. Loo, the, 80 Loppingen, 586 Lorch,289 Lorchhausen, 289 Lorsch, 557 Losheim, 324 Lossnitz, 468 Loth, 202 Louvun, 188, Magnificent Hotel deVille, 188. Church, 188. University, 189. Pic¬ tures, 189. Tower of Jan- senius, 189. Beer, 190 -to Maastricht and Aix- la-Chapelle, 191 -to Liege, 187 -* to Brussels, 191 Louviere, la, 193 Lowen, 451 Lowenberg, 442 Lubeck, 337. Historical notice, 337. Cathedral, 338. Ma- rienkirche, 338. Rathhaus, 339. Other buildings, 340. Trade, 340 Luckenwalde, 369 Ludwigsfelde, 368 Ludwigshafen, 543 Ludwigslust, 344 -to Schwerin and Dobbe- ran, 344 Luneburg , 342 Lungwitz, 498 Luppa Dahlen, 466 Lurlei, 287 Lustin, 199 Luther at Eisleben, 387 . Mag¬ deburg, 383. Erfurt, 458. Wittenberg, 369. Capture of, 455, 502. At Schmal- kalden, 502. At Coburg, 503. His beech tree, 502. Worms, 542. Wartburg, 455. Frank¬ fort, 526. His elm, 543. Lutter, 390 Liittich, 176 Luttre, 193 Lutzen, 462. The Swede’s Stone, 462. Campaign of 1813, 462 Lutzerath, 309 Luxemburg, 197 -* to Namur, 195 Luxemburg Railway (Great) 195 Lys, river, 110, 115, 130 M. Maars, or crater lakes, of the Eifel, 328 Maarsen, 70 Maas, 24 Madenburg, 551 Maese, river, 90 Maestricht, 191. Citadel and caves of the Pietersberg, 192. -to Aix-la-Chapelle, 193 MAYENCE. Maestricht* to Brussels, 191 Maffles, 113 Magdeburg, 382. Fortifica¬ tions, 382. Cathedral, 382. Gardens, 383. Luther at, 383 -* to Berlin, by railroad,364 -to Leipzig, 373 -* to Hanover and Cologne, 374 -* to Nordhausen and the Harz, 416 -* to Brunswick and Pa- derborn, 388 -to Wittenberge, 418 Magdesprung, 416 Mahlwinkel, 419 Main-Weser-Bahn, 394 Mainz, 299 Malderen, 139 Malines, 155. Cathedral, 155. Paintings, 156. Church of Notre Dame, 157. Lace, 157 Malmedi, 326 Malplaquet, 204 Malsch, 437, 567 Manage, 193 Manderscheid, 328 Mannheim, 544. Its history, 544. Has few objects to detain travellers, 544. Pa¬ lace, 544. Gardens, theatre, club, 545 -to Heidelberg and Schwet- zingen, 545 -to Spires, 546 -to Saarbriicken, 549 -to Strasburg, by Landau, 549 Mansfeld, 387 Maps, travelling, of Germanv, 211 -of Holland, 3 Marbais, 205 Marburg, 395. Church of St. Elizabeth, 395 Marceau, monument of, 276 Marche les Dames, 174 -en Famenne, 195 Marchiennes, 193, 206 Mariembourg, 195 Maricnburg on the Vistula, 429 -- on the Moselle, 319 Marken, isle of, 70 Markt-llanstiidt, 463 Marksburg, 284 Marksuhl, 455 Marvel, Andrew, verses on Holland, 8 Matsvs, Quentin, 146, 148, 190 Maubeuge, 204 Mayen, 307 Mayence, 299. Cathedral, 299. Museum, 301. Public gardens, 302. Tower of Drusus, theatre, 302. Print¬ ing invented here, 302. Gutemburg’s statue, 302 - * to Coblenz and down the Rhine, 283 INDEX 597 MA FENCE. Mayence* to Bingen by Ingel- heim, 534 -to Frankfurt, by railway, 534 -to Darmstadt and Aschaf- fenburg, 535 -to Mannheim and Heidel¬ berg, 540, 549 -to Metz, 539 -by the Rhine to Worms, Mannheim, Spires, and Stras- burg, 540 Measures, Foreign, Table of, XXXV Mechlin, 155 -to Liege, 187 Medemblik, 69 Meerfelder Maar, 328 Meersen, 193 Mehlem, 269 Meinau, isle of, 584 Meinberg, 393 Meinbrexen, 400 Meiningen, 503 Meissen, 467 ; cathedral, 467 ; china manufactory, 467 Meissner mountain, 386 Melibucus, 555 Melle, 138, 392 Memel, 433 Memling, Hans, 99, 125, 427 Mendelssohn, birthplace of, 334 Mendig quarries, 307 Mengede, 374 Menin, 115 Menzenschwand, 585 Meppel, 76 Meppen, 79 , Merk, river, 87 Merkelsdorf, 447 Merode, 248 Merseburg, 462 ; cathedral, 462 Merwe, river, 84 Merzig, 538 Meschede, 386 Metkau, 446 Metternich, birthplace of Prince, 280. Village, 308. Castles, 320 Mettlach, 538 Metz, 540 -* to Mayence, 539 Meuse, the river, from Namur to Liege, 174 -from Namur to Dinant and Givet, 198 -, tour of, 102 Miasteckzo, 427 Middelburg, 119 Minden or Miinden, 376. Battle of, 376 Mines of the Harz, 410 Mittelheim, 296 Mittelspay, 285 Mbckern, 378 Moerdijk, 87 Mohra, 502 Mdllenbeck, 402 Mdlln, 337 NAKEL. Mollwitz, 451 Monchshof, 390 Money, best mode of taking abroad, xiv. Tables of fo¬ reign, with the English value, xxxvi-xxxix. Dutch, 2. Belgian, 92. Prussian, 234. Saxon, 453, Of Nassau, Frankfurt, See., 509 Monnikeudam, 70 Mons, 203 -to Valenciennes, 204 -*to Brussels, 202 Montabaur, 530 Montignv, 108 Montjardin, 186 Montjoie, 323 Montroyal, 319 Mont St. Guibert, 195 Mont St. Jean, 166 Mont Tonnerre, 539 Monzingen, 537 Moravian colony, 72, 275, 448 Moreau’s monument, 486 Moritzburg, 3 72 Mosbach, 299, 534, 586 Moselle river, 198. Junction with the Rhine, 276. Ice on the, 277. Descent of, 317. Wines, 317. Steamers on the,317 Moselkern, 321 Moselvveiss, 323 Mouscron, 108 Mouse Tower, 292 Moustier, 194 Miiden, 321 Muggensturm, 565 Muhlberg, 467 Muhlheim on the Rhine, 240 -on the Moselle, 318 Miihlhausen, 504 Miililhofen, 276 Miihlthal, 285 Mulda, river, 370, 466 Miilsengrund, 498 Miilheim, 374, 569 Miinden, 403 Mungersdorf, 249 Munster, Anabaptists, 391 -to Osnabruck, 390 -- to Detmold, 393 Munster-Bilsen, 191 Miinster-am-Stein, 536 Miinster-Maifeld, 308 Music, in Holland, 20. Ger¬ man, 228 Muskau, 440 Murg, valley of the, 575 My Uncle Toby, 138, 173 Myslowitz, 451 N. Nachod, 450 Nahe, river — mouth of, 293. Excursion up the, 535 Nakel, 427 NIENHAGEN. Nameclie, 175 Namedy, 274 Namur, 173. Cathedral, 173. Church of St. Loup, 173, Citadel, 173. Cutlery, 174. -to Dinant and Givet, 198. -to Liege, 174 -to Luxemburg and Treves, 195 Nannine, 195 Nassau : Coins, 509. Posting, 510. Castle of, 514. Baths and Brunnen, 512-523 Natoye, 195 Nation, 345 Nauheim, 395, 533 Naumburg, 461 Nazareth, 110 Nechin, 110 NecJtar, source of, 581 - junction with Rhine, 543 -at Heidelberg, 563 Neerwindeu, 190 Neethe, river, 155 Neidenstein, 586 Neisse, 451. River, 436, 419 Nenndorf, 377 Nennig, 538 Nessonvaux, 184 Nette, river, 275 Neudeck, 505 Neuenahr, 304 Neuenburg, 570 Neuendorf, 276 Neuenheim, 563 Nenfahrwasser, 429 Neufchateau, 196, 202 Neu-groschen, 453 Neumagcu, 018 Neumarkt, 437 Neunkirchen, 538, 540, 549 Neu Paka, 447 Neu Ruppin, 345 Neustadt-Ebersw aide, 420 Neustadt an der Ilaardt, 549, 550 Neustadt in Prussia, 345, 422 j Neustadt in Saxony, 506 I Neustadt on the Wutaeh, 585 ! Neuss, 241 j Neuwied, 275 | Nicholas, St., 140 Nidda, valley, 394 Niedeggen, 249 Niederau, 467 Niederbiber, 275 Niederbreisig, 273 Nieder-Dollendorf, 269 Nieder-Ileimbach, 290 Niederlahnstein, 284 Nieder-Mendig, 307 Niederselters, 517 Niederspav, 282 Niedervvald, the, 294 Nieder-Walluff, 298 Niederwollstadt, 394 Nienburg, 403, 406 j Nienhagen, 418 598 INDEX NIERSTEIN. Nierstein vineyard, 541 Nieupont, 201 Nieuport, 116 ; battle of, 116 Nieuwesluis, 70 Nieuwpoort, 85 Nieuvve Diep, 67 Nieuwer Oosteinde, 37 Nijmegen, 72 ■-* to Amsterdam, 70 - * to Rotterdam, 82 —;— to Cologne, 241 Nimkau, 437 Nimy, 193 Ninove, 121 Nippes, 306 Nirm, 248 Nivelles, 172 Nogat river, 429 Nonnenwerth, 271 Nordernei Isle, 408 Nordhausen, 386 -to Halle, 387 -to Magdeburg and the Harz, 416 Nordheim, 404,410 Nordstemmen, 405 Norwegian church of wood, 443 Niirberg, 305 Nylen, 154 0 . Oberbeuern, 575 Oberbreisig, 273 Oberliausen, 238,374 Oberhoff, 504 ou^ahnstein, 284 Ober-^cliem^-. Oberspay, 285 Oberstein, 537 Ober-Ursel, 532 Oberwerth, 283 Oberwesel, 287 Oberwinter, 271 Obourg, 193 Ocker, river, 381 Odenwald, excursion in the, 554-557 Oder, river, 420 Oderberg, 452 Oederan, 498 Oels, 439 Oest Cappel, 115 Oestrich, 297 Oeynhausen, 376 Orenburg, 567, 580 - to Schaffhausen, by the vale of the Kinzig and Do- nauescliingen, 580 Oggersheim, 543, 550 Ohlau, 451 Ohr, 401 Olirdruf, 504 Oker,;vale of, 411. Village, 412 ° ’ Oldenburg, 343 Oldendorf, 402 Oliva, 429 PEAT. Olsene, 110 Omer, St., 105 Ommerschans, penitentiary colony at, 77 Oos, 566 Oppeln, 451 Oppenau, 567 Oppenheim, beautiful Gothic church, 541 Organs in Dutch churches, 20 Orval, abbey, 202 Oschatz, 466 Oschersleben, 382 OsnabrucJi, 392 Ossendorf, 386 Ossiek, 427 Ossmandstadt.Wieland’s grave, 460 Ostend, 122 -- to Bruges and Ghent, 123 -*to Calais, 116 Osterath, 241 Osterburg, 419 Osterode, 404, 410 Osterspay, 285 Otterberg, 539 Ottersweier, 566 Ottensen, 336 Ottersberg, 343 Ottignies, 195, 205 Ottowalder Grund, 490 Ottweiler, 538 Oudenarde, 110 Oudenbosch, 87 Oudenburg, 123 Oudewater, 81 Ougicc, 17G2 Ourthe, river, 176, 183, 186 P. Pader, river, 389 Paderborn, 389 -to Hanover, 393 Pallien, 316, 325 Pankenin, 422 Pannerden, 86 Pardubitz, 450 Paris * to Brussels, by Mons, 202 -* to Brussels, by Ottignies, &c., 205 Paschenburg, 377 Pasewalk, 423 Passarge, river, 430 Passow, 421 Passports, English,xvi. Aus¬ trian, xviii. Belgian, 92. Dutch, 1. German, 207, 233 Patersberg, 287 Paulinenau, 345 Paulinzelle, 506 Pauper agricultural colonies, 76,155 Pays de Waes, 140 Peacock Island, 364 Peat fuel in Holland, 12 POPPELSDORF. Peculiarities of manners Dutch, 18; German, 220 Peine, 379 Penipelfort, 240 Penzig, 441 Pepinsterre, 184 Perck—Teniers’ house, 157 Perenchies, 106 Peteghem, 110 Peter the Great, 64 Petershagen, 403 Peterspay, 285 Pfahlgraben, 513, 521 Pfalz, 288 Philippeville, 195 Philipsburg, 548 Philipsland, 89 Phillipsliall, 550 Physicians’ fees in Germany , 228 Picture Galleries :— -Amsterdam, 52 -Antwerp, 148 -Berlin, 352 -Breslau,'439 -Bruges, 127 - Brunswick, 379 -Brussels, 159 -Cassel, 397 -Cologne, 257 -Darmstadt, 553 -Dresden, 473 -- Frankfurt, 525 -Ghent, 134 -Gotha, 457 ■ -Haarlem, 43 ■ -Hague, 31 ■ -Hanover, 378 -Leipzig, 464 •-- Louvain, 189 ■ -Liitzschena, 466 -Mayence, 301 -Potsdam, 366 -Schwerin, 341 Pierre, St., 105 Piesport, 318 Piet-Gyzenbrug, 43 Pietersberg, near Maestricht, caves of, 183, 192 Pillau, 431, 432 Pillnitz, 490 Pirna, 490 Planchenoit, 169 Plasschendael, 123 Platte, the, 522 Plauen,495,500 Plauensche Grund, 495 Plittersdorf, 269 Podelzig, 426 Poganitz, 421 Poix, 196 Polcli, 308 Polders, 12. In N. Holland, 68 Polle, 401 Pommritz, 440 Poniatowski’s death, 464 Pont-a-Celles, 193 Poperinghe, 115 Poppelsdorf, 267 INDEX 590 PORTA. Porta Westplialica, 370, 403 Posen, 434 ■-to Gnesen, 434 -to Breslau, 435 Posting — in Holland, 3 ; in France and Belgium, 92 ; in Germany, 212 ; in Prussia, 235 ; in Saxony, 453 ; in Nassau, Hesse, &c., 510 Potscha, 489 Potschappel, 495 Potsdam, 364. Tomb of Fre¬ derick the Great, 364. Pa¬ lace, 365. Sans Souci, 365. New Palace, 366. Charlot- tenhof, 367. Russian colony, 367 -to Magdeburg, 367 -to Dresden, 373 -* to Berlin, 364 Praust, 429 Prebisch Thor, 495 Pregel, river, 432 Prenzlow, 421 Priessnitz’ Water Cure Estab¬ lishment, 451 Printing, invention of, 44, 302, 578 Pristewitz, 467 Priim, 324 -to Gerolstein, Daun, and Lutzerath, 326 Prussia —Passports, 233. New custom-house system, 233. Monev of, 234.' Travelling in, 235. Posting in, 235. Schnellposts, 235. Inns, 236 Prussian commercial league, 210 Puflendorf’s birthplace, 493 Pumpe (Eschweiler), 248 Pumpernickel, 385 Piinderich, 319 Purmerende, 69 Putbus baths, 424 Putzburg, 268 Putzfeld, 305 Pyrmont, watering-place, 401. Mineral springs, 402. Gas Grotto, 402 -to Hanover, 393 -*to Frankfurt, 394 -*to Cologne, 374 Q. Quariz, 436 Quarterly Review on Travel, xii Quatre Bras, 172 Quatre Fils Aymon, 186 Quedlinburg, 417 Queich, river, 551 Quentin Durward, 180 Quentin, St., 204 Quevy, 204 RAILROADS. Quievrain, 193, 205 Quint, 318 Quoltitz, 425 E. Radeberg, 439 Radolfzell, 582 Rafts on the Rhine, 262 Railroads: -Rotterdam to Amsterdam, 28 -Plague to Leiden, 37 -Amsterdam to Plaarlem, Leiden, the Hague, and Rotterdam, 42, 47 -Amsterdam to Utrecht and Arnhem, 70 -Rotterdam to Antwerp, by Breda and Moerdijk, 86 -Arnhem to Emmerich, Co¬ logne, Minden, and Cleves, 72 -- Calais to Brussels, 103 -Belgian, 93, 12!, 123, 155, 187 -Great Luxemburg, to Na¬ mur by Groenendael, Ottig- nies, Gembloux, and Rliisne Stats., 165, 195 -- Mechlin to Liege and Aix-la-Chapelle, 183, 187 -- Arnhem to Cologne, 237 --- A i X la Cha pol 1 p t n ('n logne, 243 -Cologne to Coblenz, 264 - Riidesheim to Biebricli, 295 -Mayence to Frankfurt, 303, 522, 528 -Cologne-Giessen, 329 -Berlin to Potsdam, 364 ——- to Kothen and Leipzig, 368 --to Stettin, 420 -to Frankfurt on tlie Oder, 436 --Breslau to Cracow, 450 -Breslau to Vienna, 451 -Cassel to Eisenach, 501 -Diisseldorf to Elberfeld, 384 -Brunswick to Wolfenbiit- tel and Harzburg, 381 - Brunswick to Hanover, 342 -Brussels to Namur, by Charleroi, 193 -Louvain to Charleroi, 194 -Charleroi to Paris, 193 - Magdeburg to Leipzig, 462 -Leipzig to Dresden, 466 -Leipzig to Hof, 499 -to Carlsbad, 501 -Frankfurt a. M. to Cassel, 394 RHENSE. Railroads : -Frankfurt to Mayence and Wiesbaden, 523, 528, 534 -Mannheim to Heidelberg, 545 •-Frankfurt to Heidelberg, 552 -Mannheim to Forbach Railway of the Palatinate, 649 -Heidelberg to Carlsrulie, Baden, Strasburg, and Basle,. 552,563 Raismes, 108 Ilammelsberg mines, 411, 412 Ransart, 206 Raphael's Madonna di San Sisto, 473 Rastadt, Palace, 565. Con¬ gresses of, 565 Ratibor, 452 Ratzeburg, 337 Rauenthal, 298 Rebaix, 121 Rech,304 Rechnitz, river, 342 Rees, 238 Rehme, 376, 402 Reichartsliausen Scliloss, 297 Reichenau, 447, 582 Reichenbach, 440, 500 Iteiclienberg, 449 Reichenberg castle, 287 Reid, la, 184 Reil, 319 Uoinbeek, 344 Reinerz, 450 llcinhaiBislauiiiij ‘JUO Reinhardswald, 399 Remagen, 272 -to Ahrweiler and Alten- ahr, 303 Rembrandt, pictures, 33, 53 ; mill, 41 ; statue of, 54 Remouchamps, 186 Renderich, 540 Reynolds, Sir J., description of the Dutch school, 17 -School of Rubens, 99 - pictures at the Hague 31 -at Amsterdam, 52 -at Alost, 121 -at Ghent, 133 ---at Mechlin, 156 -at Brussels, 160 -at Antwerp,142-151 -at Cologne, 256 Rheenen, 86 Rheindiebacli, 289 Rheine, 79, 392 Rheineck, 273 Rheinfels, 286 Rlieingau, 290 Rheingrafenstein, 536 Rheinsberg, 345 lllieinstein, castle of New 290 Rhense, 284 600 INDEX RHEYDT. Rhevdt, 260 The Rhine, mouth of, at Kat- vvijk, 41, 85 -(A) in Holland, 82-89 -ascent of, not recom¬ mended, 82 - Waal branch, Rotterdam to Nijmegen, 82 -Lek branch, Rotterdam to Arnhem, 85 -IJssel branch, 86 -(^B) Arnhem to Cologne, 237 -(C) Cologne to Coblenz, 261 •-Byron’s description of 261 -a German account of, 262 -bridge over, 251 -rafts on, 262 --steamers on, 263 -scenery of, 264 -best mode of seeing, 264 -(D) Coblenz to Mayence, 283 -castles, 290 -wines and vineyards, 290, 296 -scenery near Bingen, 294 -(E) from Mayence to Strasburg, 540-549 ■-scenery dull, 540 -gold washed from its sands, 549 Rhine, caution as to taking places in the steamers direct from London, 264 Rhisnes, 195 Richard .Inn’s 'ori¬ son, 551 Riesa, 466 Riesensaule, 555 Riedbohringen, 582 Riesenoebiroe, 441-447. Ge¬ neral account of the, 441. Sketch of a tour in, 442 Rijmenant;, 187 llinteln, 402 Roche, la, 186, 205 Rochefort, 196 Ilodenstein castle, 556 Roderberg, 271 lloer, river, 248, 260 Roermond, 90 Rogatz, 419 Rogers on Travel, x Rohrbach, 540. Roisdorf, 265 Rolandsaule, 36S, 407, 459 Rolandseck, 271 Romhild, 503 Roneberg, 507 Roosbecke, battle of, 109 Roosendaal, 87 Rosenau, Prince Albert’s birth¬ place, 504 Rosenthal, 446 Roslau, 370 Rosoux, 190 Rossbach, 461 SALZUNGEN. Rossla, 387. River, 370 Rosstrappc, 415 Rostock, 341 Rotte, river, 26 Rotterdam, 25-28 -to the Hague and Amster¬ dam, 28 -to Arnhem, Cologne, &c., by Gouda and Utrecht, 80 - to Nijmegen, by the Waal, 82 -to Arnhem by the Lek, 85 -to Antwerp, by Rail, 86 -to Antwerp, by water, 88 -ascent of the Rhine from, 86 Roth, 327 Rothenburg, 343 Roubaix, 108 Roulers, 139 Rousbrugge, 115 Roux, 193 Itiibeland, 414 Rubens’s chair, 148. Birth¬ place, 256, 329 -chateau at Steen, 157 -pictures at Ghent, 133 -Antwerp, 142, 147, 149 -Cologne, 256 -Mechlin, 157 - school and character of, 99 Rudesheim, 295. Wine, 296 Rudolstadt, 505 R'iiqen , isle of, 423 Ruhrort, 238 itunr river, 238. Valley, 239, 329 Rumpchen, 304 Runkel, 530 Ituremonde, 193 Rustemburg, 68 Ruysbroeck, 202 Ryswyk, 30 s. Saal, river, 462 Saale, 373, 505 Saaler-Bodden, 342 Saalfeld, 506 Saalmiinster, 455 Saar, river, 193 Saarbriicken, 538 -to Treves, 538 Saarburg, 538 Saardam, Peter the Great’s house, 63 Saarlouis, 538 Sachsenhausen, 524 Sagan, 436 Sagard, 425 Salm, river, 186 Salzbrunn, 447 Salzderhelden, 404 Salzig, 285 Salzkotten, 389 Salzungen, 502 SCHULPFORTA. Sambre, la, 194. River, 194, 195 Sambre and Meuse Railway, 194 Samter, 434 Sandersfeld, 343 Sangerhausen, 387 Sans Souci, 365 Santbergen, 121 Sassbach, death of Turenne, 566 Saterland, 79 Saventhem, Vandyck’s adven¬ ture at, 165 Saxon Stvitzerland, 488-495 Saxony, 453-487. Money, 453. Posting, 453 Sayn valley, and iron-works of, 276. Castle, 276 * Schaffhausen, 582, 585 * - to Freiburg, 584 * - to Offenburg, 580 Schagen, 68 Schaidt, 552 Schandau, 494 -to Dresden, 488 Schatzlar, 445 Schaumburg Lippe, 376 Schelde, 89, 108, 112, 117, 130, 140 Schenkenschanze, 237 Schermeer Hoorn, 68 Scheveningen, 36 Scbie, river, 28 Schiedam, 25, 28 Schierke, 414 Scliierstein, 298 Schiflerstadt, 546, 549 Schiller’s house and grave, 462 Sclikeuditz, 373 Schladern, 329 Schlangenbad, 517 Schlawe, 422 Schlayen, 175 Schleusingen, 507, 508 Schliengen, 570 Sell loss Elz, 321 Schluchtern, 457 Schlusselburg, 403 Sclimalkalden, 502 Sclimiedeberg, 446 Schmiergeld, 212 Schmdllen, 507 Schneeberg, 501 -the, 450 Schneekoppe, 444 Schneidemiihl, 4 27 Schnellposts, 212, 235 Schoffer, 541 Schonberg, or Schomberg, 288, 445 Schdnebeck, 373 Schonecken,324 Schdnbornlust, 276 Schonlanke, 427 Schdnmiinznach, 576’ Sclioonhoven, 85 Schoppenstadt, 382 . Schowen, 89 Schrdck, 549 Scliulpforta, 461 INDEX G01 BCHWALBACH. Snhivalbacfi, 514. ‘The Bub¬ bles,’ 515. Springs, 515. Excursions, 516 Schwarzenbeek, 344 Schwarza, 506 Schwarzburg castle, 506 Schwarz-Rheindorf, 265 Schwarze, river, 451 Schwedt, 420 Scliweidnitz, 447 Schweitzeithal, 287 Schwelm, 385 Schwerin, 340 Schwetz, 427 Schwetzingen, 545 Sebaldsbruck, 406 Sechtem, 265 Seclin, 107 Seehausen,419 Seesen, 390 Seilles, 175 Selke valley, 416 Selters, 517 Seltzer water, 517 Sembach, 539 Seneffe,193 ‘ Senhals, 320 Senheim, 320 Senne, river, 202 Senner Wald, 394 Seraing, 176 Seven Mountains, 269 S'Gravendeel, 89 Sidney, Sir Philip, 79 Siebengebirge, 269 Sieg river, 265, 329 Siegburg, 329 Siegen, 329 Siegersdorf, 438 Sievershausen, 379 Silberberg, 450 Silenrieux, 195 Silesia, 436 Simpelveld, 193 Simmein, 328 Singen,682 Sinzig, 273 Skeleton tours, xxviii-xxxiv Slate quarries of the Harz, 411 Sluys, 129 Sobernheim, 537 Soden, 532 Soest, 74,388 Soestdyk, 74 Soignies, forest of, 166 - town, 203 Solingen, 384 Solre, 206 Somairi, 108 Sombreffe, 173 Sommerfeld, 436 Sondershausen, 387 Sonneberg—its manufactures of toys, 506 Sorau, 436 Sdse, river, 410 Sottegliam, 121 Spa, 184. Iledoute, 184. Mineral springs, 185. Caves near, 186 [n. g.J STERNBERG. •Spa to Liege, 183 -to Verviers, 186 --to Malmedi,the Eifel,and Coblenz, 325 Spandau, 345 Speier, 546 Speyk, Van, 120 Spires, 546. Its eventful his¬ tory, 546. Atrocities of the French. 546. Cathedral, 547. Antiquities, 548. Alt portal, Retsclier, 548 ■ -to Strasburg, 540, 548 ■ -* to Mayence, 540 Spittelndorf, 437 Spree, river, 345, 440 Sprottau, 437 Spurs, battles of, 109 Stade, 332 Stadel Musem, 525 Stadthagen, 377 Stadtkyll, 326 Staffelstein, 505 Stargard, 422, 434 Starkenburg, 319, 557 Starzeddel, 436 Staudernheim, 537 Stavelot, 186, 325 Stavenis, 89 Steamboats from England to the Continent, xxiv -- London to Rotterdam, 24 ---Antwerp, 117 -Ostend, 122 -Hamburg, 331 -Harlingen, 75 - at Rotterdam, 28 - Dover to Calais, 103 -Amsterdam to Harlingen, 75 • -Rotterdam to Nijmegen, up the Rhine, 82 ■ - Amsterdam to Saardam and Alkmaar, 60, 64 • - on the Meuse, 174 - Dinant to Namur, 198 • - Arnhem to Cologne, 237 - Cologne to Coblenz and Mayence, 263 • -on the Moselle. 317 - Liibeck to St. Petersburg, 340 --on the Elbe, 342 -on the Weser, 399 --Mayence to Mannheim and Strasburg, 540 Stecknitz, valley, 337 Steeg, 79 Steen, Rubens’ chateau at, 157 Steenkerke, 203 Steenwerck, 106 Steig, 585 Stein, castle of, 514 Steinbach, 566 Steinberg vinevard and wine, 298 Steinhuder Meer, 406 Stendal, 419 Sternberg, 285 TENIERS. Sterne’s Advice to Travellers xii Sterpenich, 197 Stettin , 421 -to Sw inemunde,421, 423 -to Stralsund and Riigen, 423 -* to Berlin, railroad, 420 - to Danzig, Posen, and Breslau, 434 Stolzenau, 403 Stolberg, 416 Stolbcrg in Rlien. Prussia, 248 Stolpe, 423 Stolzenfels, 282, 283 Morks in Holland, 20 Stralsund, 424 Strasburg, 577. Monument to Dessaix, 577. The Rhine at, 577. Miinster, 577. Spire, 577. Marshal Saxe’s monu¬ ment, 578. Invention of printing, 578. Museum and library, 579. Arsenal, 579. The Jews’ Synagogue, 579. Pates de foies gras, 519. Ru- prechtsau, 580. —— to Paris, 580 --* to Mayence, 540 -to Schaffhausen and Con¬ stance, by Donauescliingen, 580 - * to Baden, 576 -* to Frankfurt, by Carls- ruhe and Heidelberg, 552 Strassfurt, 373 Strazeele, 106 Streckelberg, 422 Striegau, 447 Stromberg, 328 Stiotzbusch, 328 Stubbenkammer, 425 Stiihlingen, 585 Stultz, Baron, hospital founded by, 565. His birthplace, 567 Stumsdorf, 371 Suhl, 507 Suiza, 4 60 Sulzburg, 570 Summer-houses in Holland.15 Sundwich, 385 Sure, river, 198 Suterberg, 343 Swenningen, 581 Swinemiinde, baths, 421 - to Riigen, 423 T. Tables-d’liote in Germany, 208 Tafelfichte, 441 Tamines, 194 Tantow, 421 Tapiau, 433 Taunus mountains, 531 Tegel, 361 Templeuve, 110 Teniers, 157 2 D 602 INDEX TERGOUW. Tergouw, 80 Terespol, 427 Termonde, 138 Ternath, 121 Terneusen, 119 Tervueren, 165 Tete de Flandre, 140 Teufel’s Kiiclie, 489 Tetschen, 495 Texel, 68 Thale, 415 Thalers, kron, xxxviii Tharand, 495 Tliemar, 503 Theux, 184 Thielen, 155 Tholen, 89 Thom as-h-Kem pis, 74 Thorn, 427 Tliorout, 139 Thuin, 206 Thulin, 205 Th urn berg, 286 Tiefer Grund, 492 Tieffurt, 460 Tiel, 85 Tilburg, 88 Tilleur, 176 Tilly’s birthplace, 205. Atro¬ cities at Magdeburg, 382 Tilsit, 433 Tirlemont, 190 Titisee, 585 Titles, German, 220 Todtenhausen, 376 Tolbiacum, 249 Tollhuis, 86 Tougres, 191 Tonnerre, Mont, 539 Tonnisstein, 306 Tostedt, 343 Tourcoing, 108' Tours, sketches of,xxviii-xxxiv Tournay, 110 Traben, 319 Trarbach, 318 Trappe, la, convent of, 155 Trass, 273 Trautenau, 447 Travemiinde, 340 Travelling, maxims and hints for, ix-xiv - requisites for, xxiii Trebbin, 368 Treclitingshausen, 290 Treis, 320 Trekschuiten—in Holland, 4 Treves, 311. History of, 311. Antiquities, 312. Cathedral, 312. Church of our Lady, 313. Heathens’ tower, 313. Roman baths or White Gate, 313. Amphitheatre, 314. Black Gate, 314. Bridge, 315. Librarv, Codex Aureus, 316. Jgel, 316 -* to Coblenz, 308 -down the Moselle, 317 -* to Aix-la-Chapelle, 323 VERDEN. •Treves to Bingen, 328 Triberg, 580 Trier, 311 Trifels Castle, prison of Richard Cceur-de-Lion, 551 Trinkgeld, 212 Trois Pouts, 186 Tromp, Admiral, 29 Trond, St., 191 Trooz, 184 Trou de Han, 201 Trouille, river, 204 Tubise, 203 Tulip mania in Holland, 45 Tiindern, 401 Turenne, death of, 566 Turnliout, 155 Turnpikemen, 224 Tyrolese Protestant exiles in Silesia, 445 u. Uelzen, 343 Uerdingen, 239, 260 Uerzig, 318 , Ues, river, 309 Unkel, 271 Unkelstein, 271 Unna, 375 Ursula, St., 254 Usedom, 422 Usingen, 629 Utrecht, 70. Treaty, 71. Stad- huis, 71. Cathedral, 71. Uni¬ versity, 71. Maliebaan, 71 -* to Amsterdam, 70 -to Arnhem, 72 -to Nijmegen, 70 •-* to Rotterdam by Gouda, 80 V. Yacha, 455 Val Benoit, 176 Yal St. Lambert, 176 Valenciennes, 108 Valets-de-place, 209 Yalkenburg, 193 Vandyk, 109, 147, 150, 165 Varenholz, 402 Vaulx, 112 Vechelde, 379 Vecht, river, 70 Veckerhagen, 399 Veenenburg, 43 Veenliuizen, mendicity colony at, 77 Yelim Gericht, 374, 386, 573 Yelm, 191 Velp, 72, 79 Yends, 422, 426 Venlo, 90 Yenloo, 193 Verden, 406 WARTBURG. Vertryk, 190 Verviers, 187 Yesdre, valley of the, 183, 187 Yianden, 198, 325 Vianen,85 Yictoria, Roman remains of,275 Vierves, 195 Yierland, 344 Vieux Dieu, 155 -Salm, 186, 326 Vigilantes, 94 Yilbel, 394 Villers la Ville, 205 Villingen, 681 Vilvorde, 157 Yink, 37 “ Virgin’s kiss,” 573 Virieux, 195 Virneburg castle, 305 Virt.on, 202 Vise, 183 Vistula, 427, 429. Mouth of the, 429 Vlaardingen, 25 Vlissingen, 118 Vlotho, 402 Yogelenzang, 43 Vohwinkel, 384 Voigtland, 500 Yoorburg, 37 Voorn, island, 24 Voorschoten, 37 Vreeland, 70 Vreeswijk, 85 w. Waal branch of the Rhine, 82 86, 237 Wabern, 396 Wachenheim, 550 Wadenheim, 304 Waereghem, 109 Wageningen, 86 Wahlstatt, 437 Walcheren, 117 Walcourt, 194 Waldburg, 395 Waldenburg, 447 Waldorf, 265 Walker’s ‘ Original’ on Travel, xii, xiv Wallers, 108 Walloon language, 95, 180 Walporzlieim, 304 Wandsbeck, 336 Warbeck, Perkin, 111 Warburg, 390 Waremme, 190 Warmbrunn —Baths, 443. River Zacken, 443. Kvnast, 443. Schneekoppe,444 Warmond, 42 Warnemiinde, 342 Warnow, 341 Warnsfeld, 79 Wartburg, Luther’s prison, 455 INDEX 603 WARTHA. Wartha, 44 9 --, river, 434 Wassenach, 306 Wasserbillig, 198 Wasserglass painting, 356 Watering-places, German, 325 W'atergueusen, 24 W ate HLOO, 166-172. Plan of, 167 - to Namur, 172 Watten, 105 W’edigenstein, 402 Weener, 78 Wegersleben, 382 'Weiclisel, or Vistula, 427 Weilburg, 529 Weimar, 459. Palace, library, 459. Theatre, churchyard, 4 60. Gothe’s house and grave, 4 60. Schiller’s house and grave, 460 *- to Carlsbad, 507 Weinheim, 557 Weiss on the Moselle, 323 Weissenburg, 552 Weissenfels, 461 Weissenthurm, 275 Welmich, 286 Wendel, St., 538 Werdau, 500 Werder, 367 Werl, 388 Wernigerode, 414 Werra river, 386, 403, 501 Werther, scene of his “ Sor¬ rows,” 529 Werwicq, 115 Wesel, 238 W’eser river, 331, 376, 399-403 Wespelaer, 188 Wespenstein, 506, West Kappel, dyke of, 117,118 W’estmael, 155 'Westphalia, 375 Westufl'eln, 386 r Wetteren, 121, 138 Wetzlar, 529. ‘ Sorrows of Werther,’ 529 Wichelen, 138 Wickrath, 260 Wied, river, 275 <■> Wiel, 86 Wiesbaden, 519. Inns and baths, 519. Kursaal, 520. Kochbrunnen, 520. Tem- perature of the springs, 520. Homan remains, 521. Pfahl- graben, 521. Museum, theatre, 522. Platte, 522, Biberich, 523 WURZBURG. Wiesbaden* to Coblenz, 511 ■-to Frankfurt, by railway, 523 —— to Eppslein, Falkenstein, and the ’1 aunus, 531 Wiesloch, 563 Wijk, by Duurstede, 85 Wildenthal, 503, 507 Wilbelmsbad baths, 4 54 Wilhelmsbahn, 452 WilhelmsMhe, palace and gar¬ den, 398 Willemsdorp, 87, 89 Willemsoord, pauper colony of, 76 Willgartswiesen, 552 William I. of Orange, statue of, 29 ; murder of, 29; relics of, 35 Wilsnack, 345 Wimbern, 385 "Win den, 552 Windmill of Sans Souci, 366 Windmills in Holland, 49 Wines and vineyards of the Rhine, 290 Winkel, 296 Winningen, 323 Winsen, 342 Winterberg, 494 Wirsitz, 427 Wismar, 341 W issen, 329 De W itt’s death, 31 Witten, 385 Wittenberg, 369 W ittenberge, 345 Wittlich, 309 Witzenhausen, 386 Wobbelin, 345 Woerden, 81 Woldenberg, 435 Wolfenbiittel, 381 Wollin, 422 Wollmirstadt, 419 Worlitz, 370 Worms, 542. Present state and former greatness; seat of imperial Diets, 542. Ca¬ thedral, 542 Worms to Kreuznacli, by Alzei, 543 Worringen, 242 W'ortel, pauper colony of, 155 Woudrichem, 84 W’ronker, 434 Wullingerode, 386 W unstorf, 377 W'upper, valley of the, 384 Wurzburg, 586 ZWYNDRECI1T. Wurzen, 466 Wusterw itz, 368 i Wutach, river, 585 Wvck, 193 Wylre, 193 X. Xanten, 238, 242 Y Yburg, 389, 570 Ypres, 115 1.1, river, 4 9, 60 IJssel river, 79, 82, 86 IJsselmonde, island, 28 Yvoir, 199 z. Zaan, river, 63 Zaandam, 63 Zabrze, 451 Zacken,443 Zahlbach, 303 Zahna, 369 Zahringen, 568 Zand,the, 67 Zealand, 117 Zehlendorf, 364 Zeist, 72 Zeitz, 461 Zell, 319 Zella, 505 Zeltingen, 318 Zernitz, 345 Zevenaar, 237, 241 Zevenhergen, 87 Ziericksee, 89 Zijp, 89 Zittau, 448 Zollverein, 210 Zons, 240 Zorbig, 371 Zorndorf, 426 Zuid Beveland, 89, 119 Zuider Zee, 67, 74 Ziilpicli, 249, 324 Zutphen, 79 Zwan/.iger, coin, 235, 510 Zweibrucken (Deux Ponts) 540 Zwickau, 498 Zwingenherg, 554 Zwolle, 74 Zwyndrecht, 140 THE END London: r*R I VTED BY It. CLOWES AND SONS, STANIFOPO STREET, AND CHARING CROSS. m - MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 1865. T HE best Advertising Medium for Steam, Railway, and other Public Companies, Landlords of Inns, Tradesmen, and others, desirous of attracting the attention of English and American Tourists in France, Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, Italy, Spain and Portugal, Sweden, Norway, Denmark, Russia, the East, and other parts of the world. Annual Circulation, 15,000. Advertisements must be paid in advance and received by 10th April. INDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS. Page I | Alicante—G rand Hotel Bossio . 48 j | Angoulkme—G rand Hotel du Pa¬ lais .48 ! Antwerp—H otel de l’Europe . 7 Hotel St. Antoine.44 Hotel du Grand Laboureur . . 46 I Baden-Baden—H otel de Hollande 48 Victoria Hotel.64 Bagneres de Luchon — Grand Hotel Bonne-Maison .... 61 Bellaggio—G reat Britain Hotel . 53 Berne—P ension Mattenhof . . 36 . Biarritz—H otel de France . . 48 Bonn—G olden Star Hotel ... 31 Bordeaux—H otel de Nantes . . 19 I Brienz—G rossrnann's Wood Sculpt. 6 Brussels—C arter’s Hotel . . 40 | Grand Hotel de Saxe .... 61 Cannes—G ray’s Hotel .... 53 Chambery—H otel de France . . 53 Cologne—F arina’s Eau de Cologne 9 Dieppe—G rand Hotel Imperial . 41 Dresden—L adies’ School ... 56 Florence —Bianchini’s Mosaic . 6 Brizzi’s Musical Establishment. 58 Costa and Conti, Artists ... 12 Lega, Artist.28 Romanelli, Sculptor .... 26 Zileri, House Agent .... 26 Frankfort —Taochi’s Glass Ware¬ house . 8 Roman Emperor Hotel . . .12 Bohler’s Manufactory of Stag¬ horn .14,15 Union Hotel.44 Fribourg —Hotel de Fribourg . 43 Geneva —Baker, Chemist . . . Hotel des Bergues .... Hotel Beau Itivago . . . . Hotel de la Couronne . . . Hotel de l’Ecu. H6tel de la Metropole . . . Pension Anglaise. Genoa —Hotel des Quatre Nations Gervais, St., Baths ... 68 69 60 53 60 68 33 11 42 Heidelberg —Court of Baden Hotel 44 j Hotel Victoria.28 j Interlaken— Hotel Belvedere . 57 Muller’s Carvings. 57 Lausanne— Hotel Gibbon ... 40 Madame du Sue’s Pension . . 40 Pension d’Etrangers .... 57 Page | Leghorn —Micali’s Marble Works 7 Lisbon —Articles from Madeira . 36 Luxembourg —Hotel de Cologne . 69 Lyons —Grand Hotel de Lyon . . 46 Madrid —Hotel de los Principes . 61 Marienberg —Hydropathic Estab. 40 j Mayence —Hotel d’Angleterre . 19 Metz —Hotel de l’Europe ... 45 Milan —Hotel Cavour .... 45 Hotel Grande Bretagna ... 61 Mont Cenis —Borgo’s Carriages . 43 Munich—W immer’s Magazine . 7 Namur —Hotel de Bellevue . . 61 Naples —Casalta, Jeweller... 28 Beedle, Agent.40 Nice —Pensions Anglaises ... 33 Paris —Hotel des Deux Mondes . 63 Kirkland and Co., Agents . . 44 Pau —English Bank.54 Grand Hotel.54 Pisa —Andreoni, Sculptor ... 6 Prague —Hoffman’s Glass Manu¬ factory . 10 Rome— Shea, House Agent . . 13 Fabri, Forwarding Agent . . 24 Rotterdam —Kramers, Bookseller 26 Spa—H otel de Flandre .... 47 Thun —Hotel de Bellevue ... 69 Tours—G rand Hotel de Bordeaux 45 Treves —Hotel de la Maison Rouge 47 Turin —Grand Hotel de l’Europe 49 Venice —Rietti’s Antiquities . . 12 Vevay —Hotel Monnet .... 56 Vichy —Grand Hotel du Parc . . 42 Vienna —Lobmeyr’s Glass Manu¬ factory. 10 Grand Hotel National ... 45 Ullrich’s Glass Warehouse . . 11 Wiesbaden —Hotel d’Angleterre . 40 Wildbad —Hotel Klumpp ... 47 Zurich —Hotel Bellevue ... 68 ENGLAND. Agents—M'Cracken .... 2-5 -Olivier and Carr ... 16, 17 -Catchpool. 68 Annual Register.64 Athenaeum.51 Page Bedford Hotel, Brighton ... 69 Bennett’s Gift Books .... 34 Books—Foreign. 33 —-— on Health-Resorts '. . .56 -of Common Prayer ... 62 -Family Testament ... 28 - New Works of the Season. 06, 67 Brown and Poison’s Patent Flour 23 Burrow’s Malvern Glasses ... 26 Cary’s Telescope.10 Chubb’s Locks and Safes . . .18 Continental Express Agency . . 21 Couriers and Servants .... 35 -English and German ... 52 Galignani’s Paris Guide . . .26 Handbook for London .... 22 Heal’s Bedsteads.29 Ireland — Antrim Anns Hotel, Portrush.54 Lee and Carter’s Guide Depot . . 72 Letts’ Maps for Tourists ... 26 Locock’s Pulmonic Wafers . . .19 London and Westminster Bank . 22 London, Chatliam, and Dover Rail¬ way . 37 Maynard and Co.. Outfitters . . 30 Measom’s Guide-Books ... 38, 39 Mudie’s Library.25 North British Insurance ... 20 Parr’s Life Pills.64 Passport Agency—Adams . . .21 Passport Agency—Dorrell . . . 51 Passport Agency—Letts ... 28 Passport Agency—Stanford . . 22 Portmanteaus—Allen’s .... 27 Portmanteaus—Smith’s ... 64 Public Schools Calendar ... 42 Rowland’s Perfumery .... 62 Salom’s Opera and Field Glass . 55 South-Eastern Railway .... 32 South-Western Railway ... 50 Spiers’ Ornamental Manufactures, Oxford.26 Student’s Manuals.65 Swiss Couriers’ Society . . ■ . .60 Tennant, Geologist. 55 Thorley's Compound .... 10 Thresher’s Essentials for Travelling 22 APPEAL TO TRAVELLERS BY THE COMMITTEE OP COUNCIL ON EDUCATION. . See pp. 70 and 71. B May, 1865. 2 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, NEW BRITISH TARIFF, 1865. London, May 1, 1865. MESSRS. J. & R. M C CRACKEN, 38, QUEEN STREET, CANNON STREET WEST, E.C., AGENTS, BY APPOINTMENT, TO THE ROYAL ACADEMY, NATIONAL GALLERY, AND GOVERNMENT DEPARTMENT OF SCIENCE AND ART, GENERAL AND FOREIGN AGENTS, WINE MERCHANTS, AND AGENTS GENERALLY FOR THE RECEPTION AND SHIPMENT OF WORKS OF ART, BAGGAGE, &C., FROM AND TO ALD PARTS OF THE WORLD, Avail themselves of this opportunity to return their sincere thanks to the Nobility and Gentry for the patronage hitherto conferred on them, and hope to he honoured with a continuance of their favours. Their charges are framed with a due regard to economy, and the same care and attention will he bestowed as heretofore upon all packages passing through their hands. J. and R. M c C. have the advantage of DRY AND SPACIOUS WAREHOUSES, Where Works of Art and all descriptions of Property can be kept during the Owners’ absence, at most moderate rates of rent. Parties favouring J. and R. M c C. with their Consignments are requested to be particular in having the Bills of Lading sent to them DIRECT by Post, and also to forward their Keys with the Packages, as, although the contents may he free of Duty, all Packages are still examined by the Customs immediately on arrival. Packages sent by Steamers or otherwise to Southampton and Liverpool also attended to; but all Letters of Advice and Bills of Lading to bej addressed to 38, Queen Street, as above. MESSRS. J. AND R. MCCRACKEN ARE THE APPOINTED AGENTS IN ENGLAND OF MR. J. M. FARINA, GEGENUBER DEM JULICIIS PLATZ, COLOGNE, FOK HIS CELEBRATED EAU DE.'COLOGNE. 18G5. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER 3 PRICE LIST OF J. & R. MCCRACKEN’S WINES. Ingham’s Virgin Marsala, as drunk in Italy . Ditto Ditto London Particular Ditto very old Bouyier Freres’ Prize Medal Champagne . Champagne, Moet’s, Pommery’s, Clicquot’s . Clarets (First Class Shippers) Burgundies ditto . . Hock (Sachs & Hocheimer’s) . . Moselle ditto . . . Sparkling do. ditto . . . . Ports (First Class Shippers) . . . Sherries ditto . . . Baron Ricasoli’s Brolio Brandies (Hennessey’s, &c.), per dozen case • Per Dozen. 24/ J per Quarter Cask, 11/. 99 10/. . 22/ 99 13/. . 30/ • . . 42/ • 48/ to 84/ • 16/ 18/ 20/ to 150/ • . 20/ to 100/ • . 24/ to 150/ • . 30/ to 50/ • . 42/ to 70/ • . 38/ 42/ to 100/ o . 30/ to 70/ • . . 18/ • . 48/ to 84/ Ports, Sherries, Clarets, &c., in Wood, at reduced Prices. Italian Wines, Liqueurs, $c., of every description, as per Price List. Wines and Brandies Shipped Free of Duty to all parts of the World, LIST OF DUTIES. All kinds of Merchandise, Works of Art, Antiquities, Curiosities, &c., are now- admitted into England FREE OF DUTY, except the following (and a few others not of sufficient interest to enumerate here), which are still liable to Duty, viz.:— £ s. d. Arquebusade Water . . • • • the gallon 0 10 5 Cigars and Tobacco, manufactured (3 lbs. passenger’s baggage) only allowed in a • • the lb. 0 5 0 Tobacco, unmanufactured (with 5 per cent. additional) ditto 0 3 0 Coffee • • • • • • ditto 0 0 3 Confectionery (Sweetmeats and Suceades) • • ditto 0 0 1 Cordials and Liqueurs • • the gallon 0 14 0 FiAU de Cologne, in long flasks • • each 0 0 6 .-- in other bottles . • • the gallon 0 14 0 Maccaroni and Vermicelli . • • the cwt. 0 0 4 Perfumed Spirits ... • • the gallon 0 14 0 Plate, of Gold ... • • the oz. troy 0 17 0 -of Silver . . • • ditto 0 1 6 Tea . . • • • • the lb. 0 0 6 Wines in Cask, under 26° of strength • • the gallon 0 1 0 „ above 26° and under 42° of strength ditto 0 2 6 „ „ 42°, for every degree of alcoholic stren gth ditto 0 0 3 in Bottle (6 bottles to the gallon) • • ditto 0 2 6 Spirits in Cask and in Bottle • • ditto 0 10 5 Spirits in Casks must contain not less than 21 gallons. B 2 4 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, May, MESSRS. J. AND R. MCCRACKEN’S PRINCIPAL CORRESPONDENTS ARE AT ALEXANDRIA. The Egyptian Commercial and Trading Company—late Briggs & Co ALICANl’E. Mr. P. R. Dahlanper. ANCONA . Messrs. Moore, Morellet, & Co. ANTWERP S F. Mack & Co# .(Mr. P. Van Zeebroeck, Picture Dealer, &c., Rue des Recollets, 2076. ATHENS, PIRAEUS T* a tii?m r, a S Messrs. Stuffer & Binder. Mr. F. Pelikan’s Successor. BADEN BADEN ... j Messrs. Mellerio Freres. BAD EMS. Messrs. Becker & Jung. Mr. II. W. Thiel. BAGNERES DE BI-, GORRE (Hautes l Mr. Leon Geruzet, Marble Works. Pyrenees). J * Q, T tt, ( Messrs. Jean Preiswerk & Fils. Mr. Jean Thommen, Fils. BASLh .( Mr. J. Frey. J Messrs. Schickler Brothers. Mr. Lion M. Cohn, Comm re . Expediteur. Messrs. C. Harsch & Co., Glass Manufacturers, 67, Unter den Linden. BERNE. BEYROUT. Mr. Henry Heald. BOLOGNA. Messrs. Renoli, Buggio, & Co. Sig. L. Meni. .. BOMBAY. Messrs. Leckie & Co. ( Messrs. A. H. Sabatier & Co. Mr. Gremailly Fils Aine. Mr. Leon Geruzet, 44, Allies de Toumy. Messrs. Riviere & Co., Place du Palais, 4. BOULOGNE S. M... Messrs. Mory, Pere, Fils, & Vogue. Mr. A. Sire. CALAIS. Messrs. Mory, Pere, Fils, & Vogue. CALCUTTA. Messrs. Gillanpers, Arbuthnot, & Co. CARLSBAD. Mr. Thomas Wolf, Glass Manufacturer. CARRARA. Sig. F. Bienaime, Sculptor. Sig. Vincenzo Lrvy, Sculptor. CATANIA. Messrs. Jeans & Co. CIV1TA VECCHIA . Messrs. Lowe Brothers, British Vice Consulate. COBLENTZ. Messrs. Sachs & Hochhf.imer, Wine Merchants. rm nr \rp S Mr. J. M. Farina, gegeniiber dem Julichs Platz. J J .( Messrs. Gme. Tilmes & Co. Mr. P. J. Cassinone. CONSTANCE. Mr. Fred. Hoz. CONSTANTINOPLE Messrs. C. S. Hanson & Co. Mr. Alfred C. Laughton. COPENHAGEN. Messrs. H. J. Bing & Son. CORFU. Mr. J. W. Taylor. [ Messrs. H. AV. Bapsf.nge & Co. Mr. E. Arnold, Printseller. The DR ESTYFT.'l'tf J Director of the Royal Porcelain Manufactory Depot. Mr. J. Kreiss, J .) Glass Manufacturer. Madame Helena Wolfsohn, Schossergasse, | No. 5. Mr. Moritz Mayer, Moritz Strasse. 'Messrs. EMMie. Fenzi & Co. Messrs. French & Co. Messrs. Ma- quay & Pakenham. Mr. E. Goodban. Mr. J. Tough. Messrs. e't.drtt'.impv. ) Nesti, Ciardi, & Co. Mr. Ant°. di Luigi Piacenti. Mr. S. J J . .* * ' Lowe. Mr. Gaet°. Bianchini, Mosaic Worker. Messrs. P. Baz- zanti & Fig., Sculptors, Lungo l’Arno. Sig. Carlo Noccioli. Sig. Luigi Ramacci. ( Mr. P. A. Tacchi’s Successor, Glass Manufacturer, Zeil D, 44. FRANKFORT 0. M.< Messrs. Bing, Jun., & Co. Mr. F. Bohler, Zeil D, 17. tMr. G. A. Zipf. FRANZENSBAD.... Mr. C. J. Hofmann. GENEVA. Mr. Augm. Snell. Mr. F. Pelikan’s Successor, Grand Quai, No. 171. ( Messrs. Granet, Brown, & Co. Messrs. G. Vignolo & Figl Mr. A. Mossa, Croce di Malte. Mr. G. Gibelli. ciirmt j Messrs. I)e Buyser Freres, Dealers in Antiquities, Marche au . I Beurre, No. 21. GIBRALTAR. Messrs. Archbold, Johnston, & Powers. Messrs. Turner & Co. HAM BURG. Messrs.S chaak & Clauss. Mr. G. J. F. Rode. HAVRE. Messrs. Louepin, Pfere, Fils jeune, and G. Capron. HEIDELBERG. Mr. Ph. Zimmermann. 18(35. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER MCCRACKEN’S LIST OF CORRESPONDENTS — continued. HONFLEUR. Mr. J. Wagner. INTERLACKEN.... Mr. J. Grossmann. Mr. Clement Sesti. LAUSANNE. Mr. L. Longchamps. Mr. Dubois Renou, Fils. /■Messrs. W. Macbean & Co. Messrs. Thomas Pate & Sons M essrs. Maquay & Pakenham. Messrs. Giac°. Micali & Fig®., LEGHORN.< Sculptors in Alabaster and Marble. Mr. M. Ristori. Mr. Carlo j Carocci, Uffizio della Strada Itnata. Messrs. G*°. Galliani & l Co. Mr. Ulisse Cotreman. LEIPZIG. Mr. J. E. Oehlschlager’s Successor. t tqront i Mr. Arthur Van Zeller, in the Peninsular and Oriental Steam . I Navigation Company’s Offices. LUCERNE. Messrs. F. Knorr & Fils. MADRAS. Messrs. Binny & Co. MALAGA. Mr. George Hodgson. i Mr. Emanuel Zammit. Messrs. Josh. Darmanin & Sons, 45, Strada MALTA.< Levante, Mosaic Workers. Mr. Fortunato Testa, 92, Strada StR t Lucia. Mr. Carmelo Dimech. Mr. L. Francalanza, 123, Strada MANNHEIM ...... Messrs. Eyssen & Claus. [St. Giovann i MARIENBAD. Mr. J. T. Adler, Glass Manufacturer. tvt t dcvtt tuo f Messrs. Claude Clero & Co. Messrs. Horace Bouchet & Co. MARSEILLES.j Mr . Philigret, 8, Rue Suffren. MAYENCE ........ Mr. G. L. Kayser, Expediteur. Mr. W. Knussmann, Cabinet Maker MESSINA. MTT A ^ 5 Messrs. Buffet & Beruto, Piazzale di S. Sepolcro, No. 3176. . I Messrs. Fratelli Brambilla. MONTREAL. Thompson, Murray, & Co. mttvtplt i Mr. Hy. Wimmer, Printseller, Theatinerstrasse, 35. Heirs of Seb. . \ Pichler. Messrs. L. Negrioli & Co. NAPLES ...... Messrs. Iggulden & Co. Messrs. W. J. Turner & Co. Tvri?w vmr S Mr. J. W. Price. Mr. Thomas Scott. Messrs. Austin, Baldwin NEW FORK.| &Co ( Messrs. A. Lacroix & Co., British Consulate. Messrs. E. Carlonk I Sc Co. r Mr. Paolo Galimberti, at the Red Horse, Dealer in Antiquities. NUREMBERG.< Mr. John Conrad Cnopf, Banker and Forwarding Agent. I Mr. A. Pickert, Dealer in Antiquities. OSTEND. Messrs. Bach & Co. Messrs. Mack and Co. PALERMO. Messrs. Thomas Brothers. PARIS. Mr. L. Chenue, Packer, Rue Croix Petits Champs, No. 24. PAU. Mr.BERGEROT. PISA. Messrs. Huguet & Van Lint, Sculptors in Alabaster and Marble. „ c Mr. W. Hofmann, Glass Manufacturer, Blauern Stem. Pit AD U E. j V • Lebeda, Gun Maker. QUEBEC. Messrs. Forsyth & Pemberton. Messrs. Macbean & Co. Messrs. Freeborn & Co. Messrs. Maqitay, „ j Pakenham, & Hooker. Messrs. Spada, Flamini, & Co. Messrs. ROME.< p l owden, Cholmeley, & Co. Mr. E. Trebbi. Mr. Luigi Bran- v chini, at the English College. Mr. J. P. Shea. . ,, f Messrs. Preston & Co. Messrs. C. Hemmann & Co. ROTTERDAM.{ Messrs. Boutmy & Co. SCHAFFHAUSEN .. Mr. Fred Hoz. (Mr. Julian B. Williams, British Vice-Consulate. SEVILLE.| Don Juan Ant. Bailly. SMYRNA. Messrs. Hanson & Co. ST. PETERSBURG . Messrs. Thomson, Bonar, & Co. Mr. C. Kruger. SYRA .. Mr. Wilkinson, British Consul. THOUNE. Mr. A. H. J. Wald, Bazaar. Mr. N. Buzberger. TRIESTE. Messrs. Moore & Co. TURIN. Messrs. J. A. Lachaise & Ferrero, Rue de 1’Arsenal, No. 4. / Messrs. Freres Schielin. Mr. Antonio Zen. VENICE.-I Messrs. S. & A. Blumentiial & Co. 1 Mr. L. Bovardi, Campo S. Fanlino, No. 2000, rosso. VEVEY. Mr. Jules Getaz. C Mr. H. Ullrich, Glass Manufacturer, am Lugeck, No. 3. VIENNA.Messrs. J, & L. Lobmeyer, Glass Manufacturers, 940, Karnthner VOLTERRA .. Sig. Otto. Solaini. [Strasse. WALDSHUTT. Mr. Fred. Hoz. ZURICH. Messrs. Weiss zum Bracken. 6 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, FLORENCE. G. BIANCHINI, MANUFACTURER OF TABLES AND LADIES' ORNAMENTS OF FLORENTINE MOSAIC, LUNG’ ARNO NUOVO, 1, TNVITES the English Nobility and Gentry to visit his Establishment, where "*• may always be seen numerous specimens of this celebrated and beautiful Manufacture, in every description of Rare and Precious Stones. Orders for Tables and other Ornaments executed to any Design. G. Bianchini’s Agents in England are Messrs. J. & R. M‘Cracken 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street West, London. BRIENZ — 1NTERLAGKEN. M m,t rn > 1 in M l J. GROSSMANN, SCULPTOR IN WOOD, AND MANUFACTURER OF SWISS WOOD MODELS AND ORNAMENTS, AT Z¥TEELAC£E17. TTIS WAREHOUSE is situated between the Belvedere Hotel and Schweizerliof, where he keeps the largest and best assortment of the above objects to be found in Switzerland. He undertakes to forward Goods to England and elsewhere. Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. McCRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street West, London. PISA. GIUSEPPE ANDREONI, Sculptor in Alabaster and Objects of Fine Art, NO; 872, VIA SANTA MARIA, WHERE A GREAT ASSORTMENT OF FINE ARTS, SCULPTURE, Ac., CAN BE SEEN. 1865. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 7 ANTWERP. HOTEL DE L’EUROPE, Next to the Post Office. The Most Agreeable Situation in the Town. Formerly Hotel du Parc. This Hotel has been rebuilt, a magnificent Salle a manger added, as well as many Bed and Sitting Rooms, entirely new furnished and redecorated; and the present Proprietor spares no exertion to render it one of the most popular hotels on the Continent. Excellent Table d’Hote. Hot and Cold Baths. Stabling and Coach-House. English and French Newspapers. LEGHORN. ■ — 4 ■ " IIIACINTII MICALI AND SON, St a. Francesco, No. 20. Manufactory of Marble, Alabaster, and Scagliola Tables, and Depot of objects of Fine Arts. Their extensive Show-rooms are always open to Visitors. THEIR AGENTS IN ENGLAND ARE MESSRS. J. AND R. M'CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street West, London. MUNICH. HENRY WIMMER’S GALLERY OP PINE ARTS. PROPRIETOR, AUGUST HUMPLMAYR, 35, THEATXNER STREET, Invites the Nobility and Gentry to visit his Gallery of Fine Arts, containing an Extensive Collection of MODERN PAINTINGS by the best Munich Artists, PAINTINGS ON PORCELAIN AN® ON G JL A S S, all sorts of PHOTOGRAPHS, ENGRAVINGS, LITHOGRAPHS, ETC., including the complete Collections of the various Galleries. Correspondents and Agents in England, Messrs. J. & R. M $ CRACKEN, r 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street West, London. 8 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, FRAN KFORT O. M. « ■ « '■ P. A. TACCHPS SUCCESSOR, ZEIL, So. 11, BOMEMLfitU FAM5Y ©LASS AMD) (CRYSTAL wAET&mmEo P. A. TACCHI’S SUCCESSOR, Manufacturer of Bohemian Glass, begs to acquaint the Public that he has always an extensive Assortment in the Newest and most Elegant Designs of ORNAMENTAL CUT, ENGRAVED, GILT, & PAINTED GLASS, BOTH WHITE AND COLOURED, In Dessert Services, Chandeliers, Candelabras, Articles for the Table and Toilet, and every possible variety of objects in this beautiful branch of manufacture. He solicits, and will endeavour to merit, a continuance of the favours of the Public, which he has enjoyed in so high a degree during a considerable number of years, P. A. Tacciii’s Successor has a Branch Establishment during the Summer Season at WIESBADEN, in the Old Colonnade, Where will always be found an extensive Selection of the newest Articles from his Frankfort Establishment. Visitors to Frankfort should not fail to pay a visit to the Show Rooms of Mr. P. A. Tacciii’s Successor. His Agents in England, to whom he undertakes to forward Pur¬ chases made of him, are Messrs. J. & R. M‘Cracken, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street West, London, 1865. 9 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. COLOGNE ON THE RHINE. ' ■ -♦ —— JOHANN MARIA FARINA, GEGENUBER DEM JULICII’S PLATZ (Opposite the Julich’s Place), PURVEYOR TO H. M. QUEEN VICTORIA; TO H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES; TO H. M. THE KING OF PRUSSIA; THE EMPEROR OF RUSSIA; THE KING OF HANOVER, ETC. ETC., OF THE ONLY GENUINE EAU DE COLOGNE. fFHE frequency of mistakes, which are sometimes accidental, hut for the most J- part the result of deception practised by interested individuals, induces me to request the attention of English travellers to the following statement:— The favourable reputation which my Eau de Cologne has acquired, since its invention by my ancestor in the year 1709, has induced many people to imitate it; and in order to be able to sell their spurious article more easily, and under pretext that it was genuine, they pro¬ cured themselves a firm of Farina, by entering into partnership with persons of my name, which is a very common one in Italy. Persons who wish to purchase the genuine and original Eau de Cologne ought to be parti¬ cular to see that the labels and the bottles have not only my name, Johann Maria Farina , but also the additional words, gegeniiber deni Julich’s Flatz (that is, opposite the Julich’s Place), without addition of any number. Travellers visiting Cologne, and intending to buy my genuine article, are cautioned against being led astray by cabmen, guides, commissioners, and other parties, who offer their services to them. I therefore beg to state that my manufacture and shop are in the same house, situated opposite the Julich’s Place, and nowhere else. It happens too, frequently, that the said persons conduct the uninstructed strangers to shops of one of the fictitious firms, where, notwithstanding assertion to the contrary, they are remunerated with nearly the half part of the price paid by the purchaser, who, of coui'se, must pay indirectly this remuneration by a high price and a bad article. Another kind of imposition is practised in almost every hotel in Cologne, where waiters, commissioners, &c., offer to strangers Eau de Cologne, pretending that it is the genuine one, and that I delivered it to them for the purpose of selling it for my account. The only certain way to get in Cologne my genuine article is to buy it personally at my house, opposite the Julich’s Flace, forming the corner of the two streets, Unter Goldschmidt and Oben Marspforten, No. 23, and having in the front six balconies, of which the three higher ones bear my name, Johann Maria Farina. The excellence of my manufacture has been put beyond all doubt by the fact that the Jurors of the Great Exhibitions in London, 1851 and 1862, have awarded to me the Prize Medal, and that I obtained honourable mention at the Great Exhibition in Paris, 1855. Cologne, January, 1863. JOHANN MARIA FARINA, GEGENUBER DEM JULICH’S PLATZ. *** My Agency in London is at Messrs. J. & R. M‘Cracken, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street West. 10 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, PRAGUE. WILLIAM HOFMANN, BOHEMIAN GLASS MANUFACTURER, TO IIIS MAJESTY THE EMPEROR OF AUSTRIA, HOTEL BLUE STAR, Recommends his great assortment of Glass Ware, from his own Manufactories in Bohemia. The choicest Articles in every Colour, Shape, and Description, are sold, at the same moderate prices, at his Establishments. Agents in London, Messrs. J. and R. M‘CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Stieet W est. Goods forwarded direct to England, America, fyc. CARY’S IMPROVED POCKET TOURIST’S TELESCOPE. (See ‘ Murray’s Handbook.’) Manufacturer of all descriptions of Mathe¬ matical, Surveying, and Optical Instruments, for the use of Ntival and Military Officers, &c. Also the new Binocular Reconnoitring Field Glass, in Aluminium of exceeding lightness and durability, so highly spoken of by officers and other gentlemen ; price, with best sling- case, 51. 5s. Cary’s improved Achromatic Microscope, with two sets of choice lenses, capable of defining the severe test objects; from 4 1. 4s. Travelling Spectacles of all kinds. Mathematical and Optical Instrument Maker to the Admiralty, Trinity House, Royal Military College, Sandhurst, Royal Geographical Society, Christ’s Hospital, and East India College, Agra, &c.; and Optician to the Royal London Ophthalmic Hospital. 181, STRAND, LONDON. Established upwards of a Century. TH OR LEY'S delicious It will Coax the Appetite when all other means have failed. Cases, 448 penny packets, 34s. Half Cases, 224 .. 17s. Quarter Cases, 112 8s. 6d! Only to be had in Four-ounce Packets, ONE PENNY EACH. Sold by all Cornchandlers, Grocers, and Druggists. Spice Mills, Thornhill Bridge, King’s Cross London, City Depot., 145, Fleet Street. VIENNA. Bohemian White and Coloured Crystal Cnlass Warehouse. J. & L. LQBMEYR, GLASS MANUFACTURERS, * No. 940, KARNTHNERSTRASSE, Beg to inform Visitors to Vienna that they have considerably enlarged their Esta* blishment. The most complete assortment of all kinds of Bohemian White and Coloured Crystal Glass, and of all articles in this branch of industry, in the newest and most elegant style, is always on hand. The rich collections of all Articles of Luxury, viz. Table, Dessert, and other Services, Vases, Candelabras, Lustres, Looking-glasses, &c. &c., will, they feel assured, satisfy every visitor. The prices are fixed at very moderate and reasonable charges.—The English language is spoken. Their Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and R. M‘Cracken, No. 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street West, London, will execute all orders with the greatest care and attention. 1865. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 11 VIENNA. ■■■ —» BOIIEilIIM CULAS9 AN© BRONZE WAREHOUSE. HEN RICH ULLRICH, LATE WILLIAM HOFMANN, GLASS AND BRONZE MANUFACTURER, No. 3, LUGECK, Recommends liis great assortment of Glass and Bronze Ware In the choicest articles, in every colour, shape, and description, specially adapted to the English and American taste from his own manufactories in Bohemia and Vienna (for the Bronze). The prices are fixed at very moderate and reasonable charges. He received at the last London Exhibition the Prize Medal for excellent execution and very cheap prices. HENRICH ULLRICH has a Branch Establishment during the Summer Season at BADEN-BADEN, NEW PROMENADE, 418, where will always be found an extensive selection of the newest articles from his Vienna warehouse. The English language is spoken, and every information given with pleasure to travellers. He sells only real Bohemian Glass, and not Hungarian Glass, which in many places is sold in substitution. Agents in Paris and New York. Agents in London, Messrs. J. and R. M'CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street West. GENOA. — » — HOTEL DES QDATEE NATIONS. /THIS HOTEL is one of the oldest in Genoa, and is situated in the most central part of the Town. The splendour of its Apartments and the renown of the cuisine are such that it has fully sustained its old reputation. The Proprietor, M. CEVASCO, Has a magnificent Palace within a few Miles of Genoa, Much frequented during the Hot Season by Families who desire the advantages o i SEA-BATHING. The Charges are considered to be very moderate. 12 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISE! May, FLORENCE. MESSRS. COSTA & CONTI, ARTISTS, No. 1318, VIA DEI BARDI (Studio on the First Floor). Messrs. Costa and Conti keep the largest collection in Florence of original Ancient and Modern Pictures, as well as Copies of all the most celebrated Masters. N.B.—English spoken. Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and R. M‘CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street West, London. VENICE. --K>®- M. D. RIETTI, Dealer in Antiquities and Objects of Art, S. GIO. GRISOSTAMO, CAMPIELLO REMER, 5703, NEAR THE RIALTO, ON THE GRAND CANAL, Invites the English Nobility and Gentry travelling on the Continent to visit his Establishment, where he always has a large Assortment of Antiquities and Objects of Art on Sale. Correspondents in London, J. and R. M‘CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street West, E.C. FRANKFORT O. M. MR. C. A. LOHR, PROPRIETOR OP THE ROMAN EMPEROR HOTEL, Begs to recommend his House to English Travellers. This large and well-situated Establishment is conducted under the immediate superintendence of the Proprietor, and newly furnished with every comfort, and a new splendid Dining-room. The “ Roman Emperor” is often honoured by Royal Families and other high personages. The following have lately honoured this Hotel— H.M. THE KING AND QUEEN OF WURTEMBERG. H.M. THE QUEEN OF HOLLAND. H.R.H. THE CROWN PRINCE AND PRINCESS OLGA OF WURTEMBERG. H.I.H. THE ARCHDUKE OF AUSTRIA. &c. &c. &c. Table-d’hdte at 1 , Ifi. 30kr. Breakfast, &2kr. „ „ 5, Zfl. Tea, 42kr. Bed Rooms, from Ifl. to 3fl. 1865. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 13 ROME. J. P.^SHEA, ENGLISH HOUSE-AGENT, FORWARDING AGENT TO H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES. 11, PIAZZA DI SPAGNA. At this Office persons applying for Large or Small Furnished Apartments . invariably obtain correct and unbiassed information on all matters connected with Lodging-Houses, Boarding-Houses, and Household Management, while * Low and Fixed Charges for practical services offer safe and satisfactory assistance to Proprietor and Tenant, as testified by the increasing confidence of English and American Travellers since the opening of the establishment in 1852. Plans and Lists of Apartments sent by Post to persons who wish to secure accommodation, or avoid inconvenience at the approach of Carnival or the Holy Week. AS CUSTOM-HOUSE AGENT, Mr. Shea clears and warehouses Baggage and other effects for travellers who, to avoid the expense of quick transit, send their things by sea or luggage-train, directed to his care. He also superintends the Packing of Works of Art and other Property intrusted to his care, and the forwarding of the same to England, &c. ; and being^ Agent for Messrs. Burns and M cl vers’ Italian line of steamers, can offer facilities on the freight of packages between Italy and England. CORRESPONDENTS- LONDON.Messrs. J. & R. M'ORACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street West. Messrs. OLIVIER & CARR, 37, Finsbury Square. LIVERPOOL.Messrs. STAVELEY & STARR, 9, Chapel Street. FOLKESTONE.Mr. FAULKNER. BOULOGNE SM.Mr. BERNARD, 18, Quai des Paquebots. PARIS .Messrs. KAHN & CO., 8, Place de la Bourse. MARSEILLES .Messrs. GIRAUD FRERES, 44, Rue Sainte. NEW YORK .Messrs. AUSTIN, BALDWIN, & CO., 72, Broadway. 14 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER Slay, FRANKFORT O. M. PRIZE-MEDAL, SILBEME •J U i'J. LONDON, 1802. . STEMPEL. b e w i 11 i g t vom Sen at der freien Stadt, FRANKFURT. FRIEDRICH BOHLER, MANUFACTORY OF STAGHORN, Zeil No. 54 (next door to the Post-Office). Furniture op every description, as Sofas, Chairs, Tables, &c. &c. Chan¬ deliers, Table and Hand Candlesticks, Shooting-tackle, Inkstands, Paper- knives, Penholders, Seals, &c. Knives, Riding-whips, Cigar-cases and Holders, Pipes, Match-boxes, Porte-monnaies, Card-cases, Thermometers, Goblets, Candle-screens, Figures and Groups of Animals executed after Riedinger and others. Brooches, Bracelets, Earrings, Shirt-pins, Studs, and Buttons. Stag and Deer Heads with Antlers attached to the Skull. Sofa- rugs or Foot-cloths of Skins of Wild Animals with Head preserved. Orders for a Complete Set or for any quantity of Furniture will he promptly executed. The Agents in London are Messrs. J. and R. M c Cracken, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street West. 1865 15 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. FRANKFORT O. M. FBIEDRICH BOIILEK, SPendules (Ornamental Clocks) of every description, Vases, Goblets, Antique and Modern Statuettes and Groups, Groups of Animals, Inkstands, Paper-weights, &c. &c., in Bronze, Cast Iron, Galvano-plastic, &c. Crown-chandeliers ; Branch, Table, and Hand CandlesticKS, in Bronze, &c.; Lamps of every description. Porcelain and Britannia-metal Goods, Liqueur-chests. Travelling Dressing-cases, Railroad Companions, Picnic-baskets, Tra¬ velling Bags, Brushes, Combs. Work-tables and Boxes, Tapestries, Fans, Ball-books, Smelling-bottles, Opera-Glasses, &c. &c. Superior Copies of the Ariadne by Dannecker, and the Amazon by Kiss. Genuine Eau de Cologne of Jean Maria Farina, opposite the Jiilichsplatz. The Agents in London are Messrs. J. and R. M c Cracken, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street West. ml . raTumiiEiniTC 16 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, May, TO VISITORS TO THE CONTINENT. - —— ♦ ——- OLIVIER At CAT? R, 37, Finsbury Square, London, (Mr. Olivier established in 1830,) COMMISSION MERCHANTS AND GENERAL AGENTS For Shipment and Reception of Goods to and from all Parts of the World, and Importers of Wines, fyc. /ALIVIER & CARR liave tlie honour to inform ^ VISITORS TO THE CONTINENT that they undertake to receive and pass through the Customhouse in London, Liverpool, Southampton, &c., WORKS of ART, BAGGAGE, and PROPERTY of EVERY DESCRIPTION, which are attended to on arrival with, the utmost Care in Examination and Removal, under their own personal superintendence. They beg to call particular attention to their Moderate Charges, which have given universal satisfaction. Many Travellers having expressed a desire to know in anticipation to what expenses their Purchases are liable on arrival in England, the following Rates of Charges on the Reception of Packages may be relied upon, for Landing from the Ship, Clearing, Delivery in London, and Agency:— On Trunks of Baggage.about 9s. each. On Cases of Works of Art, &c., of moderate size and value . about 15s. ,, „ ,, ,, of larger ,, „ 20s. to 25s. „ On very large Cases of valuable Statuary, Pictures, &c., on which an estimate cannot well be given, the charges will depend on the care and trouble required. When several cases are sent together the charges are less on each case. OLIVIER & CARR undertake the FORWARDING OF PACKAGES OF EVERY KIND to the Continent, to the care of their Correspondents, where they can remain, if required, until the arrival of the owners. Also THE EXECUTION OF ORDERS FOR THE PURCHASE OF GOODS of all kinds, which, from their long experience as Commission Merchants, they are enabled to buy on the most advantageous terms. Residents on the Continent will find this a convenient means of ordering any¬ thing they may require from London. N.B.—The keys of locked Packages should always be sent to Olivier & Carr, as everything, although free of duty, must be examined by the Customs on arrival. INSURANCES EFFECTED, and Agency Business of every description attended to. 1865. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER 17 OlilVIEB & CAER’S principal Correspondents are—• At Aix-la-Chapelle .... Messrs. A. SOUHEUtl and CO. ,, Alexandria .Mr. J. W. BROWNE. ,, Antwerp . *.Mr. F. YERELLEN BEERNAERT. ' ,, Basle .Mr. J. J. FREY. Bordeaux .Mr. F. BEYERMAN. ,, Boulogne .Mr. L. BRANLY. 1 ,, Brussels .Mr. G. LUYCKX, 24, Rue des Fabriques. Mr. L. STEIN, 22, Montagne de la Cour. ,, Calais .Messrs. MORY, Pere, Fils, and VOGUE. ,, Cologne .Messrs. C. H. VAN ZUTPHEN and CO. 1 Messrs. G. TILMES and CO. ,, Constantinople .... Messrs. VALSAMACHY and CO., Galata. ,, Dresden .Messrs. KRAETSCHMER and CO. ,, Florence .Messrs. HASKARD and SON. Messrs. W. H. WOOD and CO.; Mr. J. TOUGH. ) ,, Frankfort .Mr. MARTIN BECKER, 5, Bleidenstrasse. Mr. MORITZ B. GOLDSCHMIDT, Banker. j» Geneva .Messrs. JOLIMAY and CO. ,, Genoa .Messrs. G. B. PRATOLONGO and CO. Messrs. P. CAUYIN, DIAMANTI, and COSTA. ,, Hamburg .Messrs. JULIUS WUSTENFELD and CO. & ,, Havre .Messrs. CHR. EGLIN and MARING. ,, Interlacken .Messrs. RITSCHARD and BURKI. ,, Leipzig .Messrs. GERHARD and HEY. ,, Leghorn .Messrs. HENDERSON BROTHERS. Mr. MARIO GIOVANNETTI, 13, Scali della Darsena. ,, Malta .Messrs. ROSE & CO. ,, Marseilles .Messrs. GIRAUD FRERES. Messrs. HORACE BOUCHET and CO. ,, Milan .Messrs. GIO. CURTI & FIG 0 . ,, Munich .Messrs. GUTLEBEN and WEIDERT. V ,, Naples .Mr. THOS. RAGLAND. [le Port). ,, Nice .Messrs. LES FILS DE CH. GIORDAN, Quai Lunel, 14 (sur ,, Ostend .Mr. J. DUCLOS ASSANDRI. [Trevise. ,, Paris .Messrs. VICTOR GRAND and CO., Bankers, 14, Rue de Messrs. LANGLOIS FILS FRERES, Rue des Marais St. Martin, 43. M. HECTOR L’HERBIER, 18, Rue de la Douane. ,, Pau .Mr. BERGEROT. ,, Prague .Mr. J. J. SEIDL, Hibemergasse, No. 1000. ,, Rome .Mr. J. P. SHEA, 11, Piazza di Spagna. Messrs. A. TOMBINI & CO. ,, Rotterdam .Messrs. P. A. VAN ES and CO.; Mr. J. A. HOUWEN3. ,, Trieste .Messrs. MARTIN FRERES. ,, Turin . .... Mr. CHIABODO PIETRO, Via Dora Grossa, 13. Venice .Mr. HENRY DECOPPET. ,, Vienna .Mr. ANTON POKORNY. ^ Any other houses will also forward goods to 0. & C. on receiving instructions to do so. Travellers are requested always to give particular directions that their Packages are consigned direct to OLIVIER & CARR, 37, FINSBURY SQUARE. PRICES OF 1 N ES IMPORTED BY OLIVIER AND CARR, AGENTS TO GKOWERS. Claret, Shipped by F. Beyerrhati, Bordeaux .... Burgundy „ Dumoulin aine, Savigny-soUs-Beaune Hock & Moselle, Jodocius Freres & Co., Coblentz . „ Sparkling, • „ Champagne. Marsala, in Qr. Casks, .£11 ; Hhds. £21. Sherries, Pale, Gold, or Brown, in Qr. Casks, £15 to £35, delivered Clabet, Burgundy, and Hock, in the Wood, at Growers’ Prices. Detailed Price Lists may be had of 0. & C., 37, Finsbury Square, per doz. duty paid. 18S., 24s., 30s., 36s., to 12 Os. 24s., 28s., 36s., to 84s. 24S., 30s., 36s., to 120s. 48s. to 60s. 48S. to 72s. 26s. 42s. to 60S 18 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, CHUBB’S LOCKS and SAFES. For perfection of workmanship and construction of Locks, also for the manufacture of Iron Safes.’ PRIZE MEDAL AWARDED, INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1862. -*-o~«-- CHUBB & SON, BY APPOINTMENTS, MAKERS TO THE QUEEN, AND TO 52.BS.BS. THE PRINCE OF WALES. flHUBB’S PATENT DETECTOR \J LOCKS, the most secure from picklocks and false keys, are strong, simple, and durable, and made of all sizes and for every purpose to which a Lock can be applied. Trunks, Portmanteaus, Travelling Bags, Dress¬ ing Cases, Writing Desks, &c., fitted with only the usual common and utterly insecure Locks, can have the place of these supplied by Chubb’s Patent without alteration or injury. Travellers’ Lock-Protectors and Port¬ able Scutcheon Locks for securing Doors that may be found fastened only by common Locks. CHUBB & SON have always in stock a variety of Writing and Despatch Boxes in Morocco or Russia Leather and japanned Tin; the latter being particularly recommended for lightness, room, durability, aud freedom from damage by insects or hot climates. Best Black Enamelled Leather Travelling Bags of various sizes, all with Chubb’s Patent Locks. Cash, Deed, and Paper Boxes of all dimensions. C HUBB’S PATENT SAFES are constructed in the very best manner, of the strongest wrought-iron, fitted with Chubb’s Patent Drill- preventive and their Gunpowder-proof Steel-plated Locks, are the most secure from fire and burglary, and form the most complete safeguard for Books, Papers, Deeds, Jewels, Plate, and other valuable property. CHUBB & SON have also Safes not fireproof, but equally secure in all other respects, intended for holding plate where protection from fire is not an object, and affording much more room inside than the Patent Safes. They are recom¬ mended specially in place of the ordinary wooden cases for plate, which may so easily he broken open. Complete Illustrated Priced Lists of Chubb's Locks, Poxes, Safes, and other Manufactures, gratis and post-free. CHUBB and SON, Makers to the Bank of England, 57, St. Paul’s Churchyard, London, E.C. 1865 . MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 19 PERFECT FREEDOM from COUGHS in 10 MINUTES AFTER USE, And INSTANT RELIEF and a RAPID CURE of ASTHMA, CONSUMPTION, INFLUENZA, COLDS, and all DISORDERS of the BREATH, THROAT, and LUNGS, I WHICH HAVE 7 A MOST L AGREEABLE |) TASTE. Moke Cures of Consumption, Coughs, Asthma, and Diseases of the Chest and Lungs. —Extract of a Letter from Mr. C. Ward, Stationer, &c., Market Place, Heckmondvvike, Yorkshire.—“ The cures of consumption, asthma, and other diseases of the chest and lungs, are regularly occurring. One person in Liversedge, a village adjoining this town, named James Richardson, who has been an asthmatical man for nearly twenty years, declares that they are worth 1Z. a box (using his own words). He feels quite a new man through this truly valuable medicine.” To Singers and Public Speakers they are invaluable for clearing and strengthening the voice.— They have a pleasant Taste. Price is. lid., 2s. 9d„ and lls. per box. Sold by all Medicine Vendors. INDIGESTION AND aBILE. The only effectual and pleasant-tasting Stomachic Aperient and Antibilious Medicine'is DR. LOCOCK’S EXCELSIOR WAFERS, which enjoys the highest patronage. It acts promptly, effectually; tastes delightfully, and requires no restraint in diet or habits. The bilious and dyspeptic will find the most effectual benefit, as it immediately relieves all Disorders of the Stomach and Bowels. As a Medicine to be taken at THE CHANGE OF SKASONS, it is unequalled for old or young. Sold at Is. lid. and 2s. 9d„ by all Druggists, or sent free by post for Is. 3d., 3s., or 4s. I0d„ by the Proprietors’ Agents, Da Silva & Co., 26, Bride Lane, Fleet Street, Loudon, E.C. AVOID PILLS. BORDEAUX. HOTEL d!£~ NANTES, QUAY LOUIS XVIII., No. 6* First-class Hotel, most delightfully situated, facing the Port, in the centre of the City, near the Promenades, the Exchange, and Theatres, is fitted up in a most superior style, has a good Restaurant, and a large Stock of Wines. Large and Small Apartments for Families and Gentlemen, Sitting Room for Conversation, fyc. «-— L. Fabri, Commissionnaire and Forwarding Agent, undertakes the forwarding ot Works of Art, Pictures, Statuary, and Baggage, the expense of which can be paid at through rates on arrival of the packages at their destination. M. Fabri, in order to save trouble to travellers and others who wish to forward articles, attends to their removal, packing, shipping, and marine insurance at mode¬ rate fixed rates, and fulfils all the formalities required by the Roman Customs on exportations. M. Fabri employs skilled workmen for packing Statuary, Marble, and fragile articles, and has correspondents in all the principal Cities of the World, to whom packages are consigned, and who pass them through the Customs with the greatest possible care, and deliver them to the Consignees. Messrs. LIGHTLY & SIMON, 123, FENCHURCH STREET, LONDON, are M. Fabri’s Correspondents in Great Britain. M. Fabri also undertakes the purchase of Pictures, &c., and payments to Artists or others, as well as any other commission business. M. L. Fabri has commodious warehouses specially adapted for the reception of Pictures and other works of Art. RATES BY SAILING VESSELS : I’or Cubic Foot. From Ripa Grande (Rome) to New York.40 cents. Boston . . . . , 50 „ Philadelphia .... 50 „ London, Dublin, and other English Ports 1 s. 9 d. By Steamer . 3 s . 55 95 5* 59 55 55 55 95 55 5 ? 55 5 ? 1865. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER 25 MU DIE’S SELECT LIBRARY. TOWN AND VILLAGE BOOK CLUBS. Book Societies in direct communication with MUDIE’S LIBRARY are now established in nearly every Town and Village of the Kingdom. Two or three friends in any neighbourhood may unite in one Subscription, com¬ mencing at any date, and obtain a constant succession of the best New Books as they appear, on moderate terms. Prospectuses, postage free, on application. MUDIE’S SELECT LIBRARY (Limited), New Oxford Street, London. MUDIE’S SELECT LIBRARY. FREE DELIVERY OF BOOKS. MUDIE’S LIBRARY MESSENGERS call on appointed days to deliver Books at the Residences of Subscribers in every part of London and the immediate neighbour¬ hood, on a plan which has given general satisfaction for many years. Prospectuses, postage free, on application. MUDIE’S SELECT LIBRARY (Limited), New Oxford Street, London. MUDIE’S SELECT LIBRARY. CHEAP BOOKS. Purchasers of Books for Public and Private Libraries, Merchants, Shipping Agents, intending Emigrants, and others, are invited to apply for the REVISED LIST of Books withdrawn from MUDIE’S LIBRARY for SALE. This List contains more than One Thousand Books of the Past and Previous. Seasons, at the lowest current Prices. MUDIE’S SELECT LIBRARY (Limited), New Oxford Street,London. MUDIE’S MANCHESTER LIBRARY. NOTICE. All the New and Choice Books in circulation or on Sale at MUDIE’S SELECT LIBRARY, New Oxford Street, London, may also be obtained, with the least possible delay, by all Subscribers to MUDIE’S LIBRARY, 74 and 76, Cross Street, Manchester. Prospectuses, postage free, on application. 26 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER May, MESSES. LETTS, as Agents to l'i- H.M.’s Board of Ordnance and the Geo¬ logical Society, have daring the last 40 years been unceasingly collecting the BEST MAPS from every approved source, both at home and abroad. The Tourist, Engineer, Railway Promoter, Merchant, and Gentleman, have all been equally considered, and the Adver¬ tisers believe their Collection will repay inquiring into its merits. The productions of France, Austria, Switzerland, and Prussia, with some others, deserve especial notice. The following Catalogues and Lists (any one of which will be forwarded on applica¬ tion) of Maps embrace the selection of every good Publisher in this and Foreign Countries, regardless of price or scale :— Condensed List of the Ordnance and Geo¬ logical Publications, with Maps, Domesday Books, General, Tourist, Geological, Library, Office, and Foreign Maps, English and Fo¬ reign Guides, Atlases, Globes, and Ga- ; zeteers, sold by Letts, Son, and Co. Post free, price 2d. Letts’s Catalogue of Tourist, General, Geo¬ logical, Library, Office, and Foreign Maps, giving size in inches, scale of miles to the inch, number of sheets, and prices. Post free, price Id. Letts’s Condensed Catalogue of Ordnance Maps of England, Ireland, and Scotland. \ Price Id. Letts’s List of English and Foreign Guides, and Dictionaries and Interpreters. Id. Letts’s List of Foreign Government Maps, embracing the most important. Id. Letts, Son, and Co., Royal Exchange, E.C. FLORENCE. M. ZELERI, HOUSE AGENT, For Furnished and Unfurnished Apartments, Villas, &c. General Commission for forward¬ ing Works of Art. Palazzo Carrega, Via de'Panzani, No. 4. M. Zileri begs to inform the Public that he i has opened the above office by the advice of j several influential English, American, and [ Italian Gentlemen. He will do his utmost to | merit the patronage and confidence of all who employ him. Charges fixed and moderate. FLORENCE. P. ROMANELLI, Sculptor, Pupil of, and Successor to, the late Professor Bartolini, has opened a Gallery, Lung’ Arno Guicciardini, No. 7. The intelligent amateur will find there a Collection of Statues, both originals and copies, artistically executed.) OXFORD. SPIERS AND SON, 102 & 103, HIGH STREET, Stationers, &c., by Appointment to H.R.1I. The Prince of Wales. Respectfully invite TOURISTS to VISIT their Extensive Warehouses for Useful and Ornamental Manufactures, suitable for Pre¬ sents and remembrances of OXFORD. Copies of every published GUIDE-BOOK and MAP of Oxford and its neighbourhood kept in stock, as well as Photographs, Stereo¬ scopic Pictures, Articles of Vertu, &c. At the Great Exhibitions in London, 1851-1862, Paris, 1855, and New York, 1853, Honourable Mention or the Prize Medal was awarded to their Ornamental Manufactures. Information relative to Oxford afforded to strangers visiting their establishments. THE MALVERN GLASSES (Eye - pieces Stamped “ W. and J. Burrow, Malvern.” — No others genuine). BURROW’S MALVERN GLASSES Are the most charming Tourists’ Binoculars for viewing Scenery, &c. They are light and handy, exquisitely clear, very powerful, and do not fatigue the sight. Price T3 13s. 6tf., in Sling Case, complete. Larger size, <£6 6s. „ ,, Sent on Receipt of Post Office Order. Address—W. and J. BURROW, Malvern. N.B.—An Illustrated Catalogue of Binocu¬ lars and Telescopes post free on application. GALIGNANPS NEW PARISGUIDE. Compiled from the best authorities, revised and verified by personal inspection, and ar¬ ranged on an entirely new plan, with Map and Plates. Royal 18mo. 10s. 6 d. hound; or without Plates, 7s. 6 d. bound. London : Simpkin, Marshall, & Co. R OTTE RD A M ~ H. A. KRAMERS, Importer of Foreign Books. Mr. Murray’s ‘ Handbooks for Travellers, Bradshaw’s Monthly Railway Guides, Bae¬ deker’s ‘ Reischandbiicher,’ and Joanne’s ‘ Guides pour les Voyageurs,’ alw r ays in Stock. English, French, and German Books im¬ ported Weekly, and a great variety of New Books kept in Store. 47, GELDERSCHE KADE. 1865 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER 27 93t[ Jlppamiinrnt fa 1. ft. 1. ®ljc |Jrinrt nf BMts. 37, WEST STRAND, LONDON, W.C. ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUES of 500 ARTICLES Post Free. ALLEN’S PATENT ALLEN’S PATENT ALLEN’S PATENT BAG. Quadruple Portmanteau. DESPATCH-BOX DESK. SOLID LEATHER DRESSING-CASE. ALLEN’S NEW DRESSING BAG. PORTMANTEAU. RAILWAY PORTMANTEAU, ALLEN’S SOLID MAHOGANY DRESSING-CASE, ALSO Allen’s Barrack Furniture Catalogue, for Officers joining, POST TKtSE. PRIZE MEDAL AWARDED, 1862, FOR GENERAL EXCELLENCE. 28 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, NOTICE Tourist’s & Passport Agency, 8, ROYAL EXCHANGE, LONDON, E.C. | ESSRS. LETTS undertake to supply | intending Travellers either through i this or Foreign Countries with every informa¬ tion that can be of service to them on their route—relative to times and means of Convey- j ance, Couriers, Currency, &c.—and to provide PASSPORTS with the requisite vises with the utmost promptitude and regard to eco¬ nomy. TRAVELLERS to INDIA or the CONTINENT may be provided with the Newest Editions of ENGLISH, FRENCH, AND GERMAN GUIDE BOOKS, as well as the most approved selection of Maps, both English and Foreign (see separate List), and with Polyglot Washing-Books, Books of Travel-Talk, and Dictionaries. Trustworthy Couriers will be recommended by giving sufficient notice. X.ETTS, SON, &. CO., 8, ROYAL EXCHANGE, LONDON, E.C., Stationers, Travelling Desk Manufacturers, Lithographers, and Agents to H.M. Board of Ordnance and the Geological Society. NAPLES. LOUIS CASALTA, LARGO CAPPELLA A CHIAIA, No. 1, By appointment to H.R.H. the Prince of Savoy-Carignan, Manufacturer of Articles in Coral, and in Lava from Vesuvius, Retail and for Exportation. Bijouterie in 18-carat Gold. Accurate copies of Objects of Art found in the Ruins of Pompeii. FLORENCE. SIGNOR LEGA AND DAUGHTER, ARTISTS, No. 32, VIA DE’ BARDI (Studio on tiie First Floor), Keep a large Collection of Original Pictures, ancient and modern ; also Copifes of the most Celebrated Masters. Portraits painted of any required size. English spoken. Correspondents in England, J. and R. M‘Cracken, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street West, London. HEIDELBERG. HOTEL VICTORIA, Situated close to the Railway Station upon the Promenade. Table-d’Hote at 1 and 5 o’clock. Cuisine Frangaise. Greatly patronised by Englishmen. Apartments elegantly furnished. ILLUSTRATED FAMILY TESTAMENT. Now ready, beautifully printed on Toned Paper, with more than 100 Illustrations, 2 vols. crown 8vo., 30s. Of Our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ. Edited, with a short Practical Commentary, explanatory of difficulties and for the removal of doubts. By EDWARD CHUETON, M.A., Archdeacon of Cleveland and Prebendary of York; and W. BASIL JONES, M.A., Prebendary of York and of St. David’s. With Views of Subjects and Places mentioned in the Sacred Text, from Sketches and Photo¬ graphs made on the spot by Rev. S. C. Malan, M.A., and James Graham, Esq. ‘ Mr. Murray’s New Testament is a noble commencement of the new 7 ora of illustration which we desire for the Scriptures.’— Athenaeum. JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 1865. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 29 THE FURNISHING OF BED-ROOMS. TTEAL and SON have observed for some time that it would bo advantageous to their customers to see a much larger selection of Bed¬ room Furniture than is usually displayed, and that to judge properly of the style and effect of the different descriptions of Furniture, it is necessary that each de¬ scription should be placed in a separate room. They have therefore erected large and additional SHOW ROOMS, by which they are enabled not only to extend their show of Iron, Brass, and Wood Bedsteads, and Bed-room Furniture, beyond what they believe has ever been attempted, but also to provide several small rooms for the purpose of keeping complete suites of Bed-room Furniture in the different styles. Japanned Deal Goods may be seen in complete suites of five or six different colours, some of them light and ornamental, and others of a plainer description. Suites of Stained Deal Gothic Furniture, Polished Deal, Oak, and Walnut, are also set apart in separate rooms, so that customers are able to see the effect as it would appear in their own rooms. A Suite of very superior Gothic Oak Furniture will generally be kept in stock, and from time to time new and select Furniture in Various woods will be added. Bed Furnitures are fitted to the Bedsteads in large numbers, so that a complete assortment may be seen, and the effect of any particular pattern ascertained as it would appear on the Bedstead. A -very large stock of BEDDING (Heal and Son’s original trade) is placed on the Bedsteads. The stock of Mahogany Goods for the better Bed-rooms, and Japanned Goods for plain and Servants’ use, is very greatly increased. The entire Stock is arranged in eight rooms, six galleries, each 120 feet long, and two large ground floors, the whole forming as complete an assortment of Bed-room Furniture as they think can possibly be desired. Every attention is paid to the manufacture of the Cabinet Work; and they have just erected large Workshops on the premises for this purpose, that the manufacture may be under their own immediate care. Their Bedding Trade receives their constant and personal attention, every article being made on the premises. They particularly call attention to their Patent Spring Mattrass, the Sommier Elastique Portatif. It is portable, durable, and elastic, and lower in price than the old Spring Mattrass. heal am® soars illustbatkd catalogue or BEDSTEADS, BEDDING, AND BED-ROOM FURNITURE Sent free by 1’vst. 106, 107, 108, TOTTENHAM COURT ROAD. 30 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, MAYNARD, HARRIS, & GRICE, Military, Naval, and General Outfitters and Agents, 126 , LEAQENHALL STREET, LONDON, [ Adjoining the Office of the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company. 1VTAYNARD, HARRIS, & GRICE, beg to draw the attention -1*1- of Travellers proceeding to the East to their Establishment, so long and favourably known for the superior quality of their supplies. Every description of Supplies required by Travellers always ready, BULLOCK TRUNKS, OVERLAND TRUNKS, PORTMANTEAUS, &c. PORTABLE BEDSTEADS, with Bedding, &c., complete, in Waterproof Valises. PORTABLE LAMPS. SADDLERY. WEARING APPAREL of every description, manufactured especially for Hot Climates. M., H., & G. would especially solicit an inspection of the following articles, specially adapted for Tropical Climates. LEVINGE’S ANTI-MOSQUITO CURTAINS. The above apparatus was originally made by M., H., & G., under the personal directions of Mr. Levinge, and improved by the suggestion of Sir Charles Fel- lowes, and should be examined by all travellers to the East, where some pro¬ tection from insects is quite indispens¬ able. See Murray’s Handbook to tiie East. Price :—Curtains and Canes, complete, 25s.; Extra Canes, 6d. each; Waterproof Bags, 4s.; Cork Mattress, covered water¬ proof leather-cloth, into which the cur¬ tains may be rolled, 20s. 6 d. OAK CANTEENS, containing Breakfast Service complete for Two Persons, 3 1. 10s. to 5 1. OAK CANTEENS, containing Breakfast and Dinner Service complete for Two Persons, 6/. 10s. to 9/. INDIA GAUZE UNDER-CLOTHING, manufactured specially for wear in Hot Climates. FLANNEL OR SILK AND WOOL SHIRTS, FLANNEL OR TWEED SUITS. AIR-CHAMBER HATS & HELMETS. Fall Particulars and Priced Lists upon application. 126, Leadenhall Street, London, E.C. 1865. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. fil BONN ON THE RHINE. MR. SCHMITZ, PROPRIETOR of the golden star hotel, Begs leave to recommend his Hotel to English Travellers. The apart¬ ments are furnished throughout in the English style ; the rooms are carpeted; and the attendance, as well as the kitchen and the wine- cellar, is well provided. Mr. SCHMITZ begs to add that at no first- rate Hotel on the Rhine will be found more moderate charges and more cleanliness. The STAR HOTEL has been honoured by the visits of the following Members of the English Royal Family - 1857. Oct. 16 { 1857. 1857. 1857. 1857. 1857. 1856. Aug. 20 Aug. 8 July 29 July 29 July 15 Nov. . { F H, 1846. June 18 ■ 1818. 1825. and 1834. 1836. 1837. 1839. 1840. 1841. 1841. 1844. 1845. 1847. May . . March Sept. . July. . Aug. July. Nov, Nov. • • • ■ • • • • • June July { H. R. H. the Prince of Wales, accompanied hy General Sir W. Codringtok, Colonel Ponsonby, Sir Frederic Stanley, Dr. Armstrong, Rev. F. C. Tarver, Mr. Gibbs, etc. ■ H. R. H. the Prince of Wales and hi3 Suite paying a visit at the Golden I. Star Hotel to His Majesty the King of the Belgians. H. R. H. the Prince of Wales and his Suite. ' T. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Princess Mary of Cambridge, accompanied by the Baron Knesebeck and Suite. H. R. H. the Prince of Wales paying a visit at the Golden Star Hotel to T. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Princess Mary of Cambridge. H. R. H. the Prince of Wales, accompanied by the Right Honourable C. Grey, General Major, Colonel Ponsonby, Sir Frederic Stanley, Dr. Armstrong, Rev. F. C. Tarver, Mr. Gibbs, etc. R. H. Prince Alfred of Great Britain, accompanied by Lieutenant- General Sir Frederick Stovin and Lieutenant Cowell. M. Adelaide, Queen Dowager of Great Britain, accompanied by His Highness Prince Edward of Saxe Weimar, Lord and Lady Bar¬ rington, Sir David Davies, M.D., Rev. J. R. Wood, M.A., Captain Taylor, &c. &c., honoured the above establishment with a Three Days’ Visit. H. R. H. the Duke of Cambridge and Suite. H. R. H. the Duke and Duchess of Clarence (King William IV. and Queen Adelaide) and Suite. H. M. Queen Adelaide, accompanied by the Earl and Countess of Errol, Earl and Countess of Denbigh, Earl and Countess Howe, &c. H. R. H. the Duchess of Gloucester and Suite. H. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite. H. R. H. the Prince George of Cambridge and Suite. H. R. H. Prince Albert of Saxe Coburg Gotha, accompanied by Prince Ernest of Saxe Coburg Gotha, and their Suite. H, R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge, accompanied by the Princess Augusta of Cambridge, and their Suite. H. R. H. the Duchess of Kent and Suite, accompanied by H. S. H. the Prince of Leiningen. H. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite. H. R. H. Princess Carolina of Cambridge. H. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite. H. R. H. Princess Mary of Cambridge. H. R. If. the Duchess of Kent and Suite, accompanied by H. S. H. the Prince of Leiningen. T. R. H. the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, with their Family and Suite. 32 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, N.B .—The NEW STATION at CHARING CROSS, WEST-END, is NOW OPEN for Traffic, and the Continental Mail Trains and Tidal Trains run to and from that Station, calling at London Bridge each way. LONDON AND PARIS IN 10 HOURS, By the Accelerated Special Express Daily Direct Tidal Service , Via FOLKESTONE and BOULOGNE. THE CHEAPEST, QUICKEST, AND SHORTEST ROUTE. A Through Night Service between London and Paris, Via FOLKESTONE and BOULOGNE. For Hours of Departure (ivhich are variable'), of both the above Services, see Time Book and Bills, SIX THROUGH SERVICES BAEX.Y BY THE SHORT SEA imn KAIL ROUTES. The Mail Trains of this Company, conveying by special appointment the Continental Mails, run to and start from the Mail-Packet Side on the Admiralty Pier at Dover. To avoid inconvenience from examination en route, Passengers should be careful to order the registry of their Baggage to Charing Cross per South-Eastern Railway. Rates for Through Tickets. LONDON AND PARIS RETURN TICKETS. FIRST CLASS. SECOND CLASS. By either Boulogne or Calais. £4 7 0 . £3 7 0 Third-Class Through Tickets by Night Service, 20s. BELGIUM, GERMANY, HOLLAND, &c. &c., By the appointed Continental Mail Trains. FOUR SERVICES DAILY. Leaving Charing Cross and London Bridge at 7-25 a.m. and 8-30 p.m. daily, via Dover and Calais, and 7*25 a.m. and 8'30 p.m., via Ostend, every day except Sunday. THROUGII^TICKETS ISSUED AND BAGGAGE REGISTERED (With a free allowance of 56 lbs. each Passenger), To and from the Principal Continental Cities and Towns. NEW ROUTE TO THE EAST. THE PARCELS EXPRESSES convey Parcels to nearly all Continental Destinations, at through Rates, as quickly as the Mails. A Reduced and Revised Scale of Through Rates for Parcels and Merchandise, of any weight, between London and Paris. A New Through Tariff, between London and Paris, for Bullion and Value Parcels; also. Rates for Value Parcels between London and Belgium MERCHANDISE FORWARDED TO BOULOGNE. THE OVERLAND AND MAIL ROUTE TO INDIA, CHINA, &c. LONDON BRIDGE STATION, SEASON, 1865. C. W. EBOEALL, General Manager. 1865. 33 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. FOREIGN BOOKS AT FOREIGN PRICES. Travellers may save expense and trouble by purchasing Foreign Books in England at the same prices at which they are published in Germany or France. WILLIAMS & NORGATE have published the following CATALOGUES of their Stock:— 1. CLASSICAL CATALOGUE. 2. THEOLOGICAL CATA¬ LOGUE. 3. FRENCH CATALOGUE. 4. GERMAN CATALOGUE. 5. EUROPEAN LINGUISTIC CATALOGUE. 6. ORIENTAL CATALOGUE. 7. ITALIAN CATALOGUE. 8. SPANISH CATALOGUE. ANY CATALOGUE SENT P WILLIAMS & NORGATE, 9. SCIENTIFIC CATALOGUE. Natural History, Chemistry, Mathe¬ matics, Medicine, &c. 10. FOREIGN BOOK CIRCU¬ LARS. New Books, and New Purchases. 11. SCIENTIFIC-BOOK CIRCU¬ LARS. New Books and Recent Purchases. )ST-FREE FOR ONE STAMP. Importers of Foreign Books, 14, Henrietta Street, Covent Garden, London, and 20, South Frederick Street, Edinburgh. NICE AND SWITZERLAND. PENSIONS ANCrEASSES (iTIAISONS «le PIlEHIffEE. ORDRe), THE MARINE VILLA, PROMENADE DES ANGLAIS, NICE; GRAND VILLA GARIN, CIMIES, NICE, Removed from the Villa Visconti; and THE GRAND CHATEAU DE PRANGINS, &e. &e., FORMERLY THE RESIDENCE OF KING JOSEPH BUONAPARTE, NYON, LAKE OF GENEVA, Thirty minutes by rail from Geneva, and 200 feet above the Lake, in full view of Mont Blanc. The Chateau is very spacious, the apartments large and lofty, and the accommodation is of the first order. EXCELLENT CUISINE. All the above Establishments are conducted by the Proprietors, MR, AND MES. SMITHEES, At Nice in winter, and in Switzerland in summer, from 1st May. D 34 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER May, A. W. BENNETT’S GIFT BOOKS, ILLUSTRATED BY PHOTOGRAPHY. Crown 4to., handsome binding, gilt extra, cloth, 42s.; morocco, 55s. HYPERION : A ROMANCE. By Henry W. Longfellow. Illustrated with Twenty-four splendid Photographs, ? inches by 5, of the Rhine, Switzerland, the Tyrol, &c„ taken expressly to illustrate the scenery of the Story, by Francis Frith. ‘ Many of the views make excellant pictures, and are better than the best engravings.’— Times. ‘ So well as photography can illustrate a book—and for the exercise of its powers it would be hard to find an apter field than this romance offers—it is perfect.’—A thenaeum. ‘ The book is printed with much taste, and Mr. Frith’s twenty-four photographs are the very best, as a series, that ever decorated a book.’— Publishers’ Circular. ‘ The book, which is of lasting value, will be a frequent source of enjoyment in every room that it adorns. Such photographs as that of the Devil’s Bridge, the Staubbach, the Rhone Glacier, the Valley of Meyringen, the several studies of Heidelberg, of Innsbruck, and the Tomb of Maximilian there, in the Franciscan Church of the Holy Cross, with others as well worthy of special mention, represent the perfection of the sun as a painter of landscapes and architecture.’— Examiner. Ornamental binding, fcap. 4to., cloth, 21s.; morocco, 31s. 6 d. RUINED ABBEYS AND CASTLES OF GREAT BRITAIN. By William and Mary Howitt. The Photographic Illustrations by Bedford, Sedgfield, Wilson, and Fenton. ‘ Among illustrated books, the newly-published volume entitled “ The Ruined Abbeys and Castles of Great Britain,” is at once the most conspicuous and the most beautiful. As a gift-book the volume is in every respect to be commended, and, better than most gift-hooks, it will repay whoever [shall carefully examine and peruse t.’— Westminster Review. Ornamental binding, fcap. 4to., cloth, 21s.; morocco, 31s. 6<3. RUINED ABBEYS AND CASTLES OF GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND. By William Howitt. Second Series. The Photographic Illustrations by Thompson, Sedgfield, Ogle, and Hemphill. ‘ We have seen nothing finer in the way of photographs than these old ruins, every stone, and bit of lichen, and green spray coming out sharp and clear, in a manner quite wonderful in its truth and beauty. This honld lie the Christmas book of the season.’— Bookseller. Small 4to., handsome binding, cloth, 18s.;. morocco, 25s. OUR ENGLISH LAKES, MOUNTAINS, AND WATERFALLS, as seen by William Wordsworth. Photographically Illustrated. ' A beautiful, refined, and tasteful volume.'—M orning Post. ‘ The idea is excellent, and has been ably carried out.’—L ondon Review. New edition, small 4to., elegant, cloth, 18s. ; morocco, 25s. THE LADY OF THE LAKE. By Sir Walter Scott, Bart. Illustrated with Photographs by T. Ogle and G. W. Wilson. ‘ The photographs show many a lovely scene.The idea of so illustrating the “ Lady of the Lake ” is an excellent one.'—A thenaeum. • The photographs aie certainly among the best in every way that we have ever seen, and most liberally bestowed, nearly every scene of special interest being given.’— Spectator. Demy 8vo., cloth gilt, 21s. NORMANDY : Its Gothic Architecture and History, as Illustrated by Twenty-five Photographs by Cdndall and Downes, from Buildings in Rouen, Caen, Mantes, Bayeux, and Falaise. By F. G. Stephens. 1 Of small dimensions, but of great beauty, is the volume modestly styled “ A Sketch,” by Mr. Stephens, con¬ taining twenty-five exquisite small photographs of some of the finest buildings of Normandy, and a concise, well-compiled summary of the historical events connected with them, and a short account of their architec¬ tural history.’— Westminster Review. LONDON; ALFRED W. BENNETT, 5, BISHOPSGATE WITHOUT, E.C 1865. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 35 THE CONTINENT. COURIERS AND TRAVELLING SERVANTS OF DIFFERENT NATIONS. Society of Couriers and Travelling Servants. Established 13 Years. Patronised by the Royal Family, Nobility, and Gentry. 12, BURY STREET, ST. JAMES’S. This Society is composed of Members of different Nations, all of well-established reputation, great experience, efficiency, and respectability. Couriers suitable for any country can be obtained. Italians, Germans, Swiss, French, and Men of other Nations, compose this Society; some of whom, besides the usually required languages, speak Spanish, Russian, Swedish, Turkish, and Arabic,—in fact, every Continental and European language. Travellers for any part can immediately meet with Couriers and Travelling Servants on application to the Secretary. COURIERS AND TRAVELLING SERVANTS OF DIFFERENT NATIONS, 12, BURY STREET, ST. JAMES'S. n 2 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 36 May, BEENE (Switzerland). PENSION MATTENHOF, IN THE IMMEDIATE VICINITY OF THE VILLETTE BERNE (Switzerland). Proprietor: J. STAKE), 'THIS Establishment, delightfully situated, will prove itself ' ' worthy of the patronage of families and tourists desirous of making an agree¬ able stay in Berne. Comfortable Apartments. Extensive Gardens. Baths in the house. English Cooking, Moderate Charges. Further information will be gladly supplied by F. W. Heintz, Esq., 13, Wal- brook, City, London, E.C. LISBON. ARTICLES FROM MADEIRA. A. €. RIBEIBO, 41, RIJA DO CORPO SANTO, Under the Hotel Central, Lisbon, Has on sale all the Articles in which he deals at Funchal, No. 10A, Rua da Carreira, including— Feather Flowers. White Lace Shawls. Black Silk Shawls. White D’Oyleys. Mats op Aloe Thread. Embroidery. Hair Chains and Bracelets. White Leather Boots. Wax Fruits. Wicker Chairs. Fancy Baskets. Machetes. Bracelets and Brooches Silver Mounted, With SILVER CHARMS. Red Pepper. Arrowroot. Figures of the Peasantry in Wood and Baked Clay. Inlaid Wood Workboxes, Book¬ stands, &c. Views of Madeira. Collide Hooks to the Island. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK OF PORTUGAL. *** English Spohen. ! 1865. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 37 THE DIRECT MAIL ROUTE TO THE CONTINENT. LONDON, CHATHAM, AND DOVER RAILWAY. LONDON and PARIS via DOVER and CALAIS. SHORTEST SEA PASSAGE, 80 MINUTES, Breeze,’ and * Wave,’ built expressly for this Service TWO SPECIAL EXPRESS SERVICES DAILY. By tiie splendid new Boats ‘ Samnhire,’ ‘ Maid of Kent , 5 Victoria Station, West End Central Terminus; Blackfriars Bridge, City Terminus. Express Daily Direct Fixed Service. Mail Steamers and Special Express Trains. Day tight Sea Passage in Eighty Minutes. First and Second Class throughout. DAY SERVICE. MAY, 1885. PARIS VICTORIA (West End Station) - - dep. ( BLACKFRIABS BRIDGE (City Stat.) dep. J 7 DOVER.arr. 30 A.M. dep. AMIENS., - arr. C A I, A IS - -- -- -- - dep. DOVER.arr. about DOVER.dep. 7‘ 20 A.M. yi 4 ,, I*IO ,, 3’2o ,, 3’45 .. VICTORIA (West End Station) - arr. 1 BLACKFRURS BRIDGE (CityStat.)arr. f 5 45 g-25 r.M. DOVER -.dep. 9*35 CALAIS ------- arr. about i2'Io ,, AMIENS.dep. 3-35 ,, PARIS - -- -- -- -- arr. 6(0 ,, Passengers have the option of proceeding from or to Dover by any other train of the London, Chatham, & Dover Railway, The S'-a Passage between Dover and Calais is the shortest between England and the Continent. Baggage can be Registered from London to Paris daily during the month, and vice versa. Clearing Baggage.— The Company employs nn Officer, to pass Baggage at Dover, icithout charge, when free of duty. Omnibus at Dover and Calais.-No charge is made for the conveyance of Passengers with Through Tickets between the Boats and the Stations. *#* Passengers are requested to be careful to Register their luggage LONDON, f HATHAM, and DOVER RAILWAY, in order that no inconvenience may arise en route. NIGHT FIXED MAIL EXPRESS SERVICES. LONDON and PARIS via DOVER and CALAIS. $3 S m Oo 3 O CLi Flares from LONDON (Victoria) dep. 1 * Ex press. 8-30 P.M. 02 (Blackfriars) dep. J 1-1 O op I DOVER . arr. IC-30 ,, Ditto ----- dep. I0-40 ,, < CALAIS. dep. 1*30 A.M. p © AMIENS --- - dep. 4*55 >> p 1 PARIS. arr. 7-20 ,, Places from PARIS. AMIENS - - - - CALAIS - - - - Ditto - - - - - DOVER - - - - LONDON (Victoria) - (Blackfriars) dep. dep. arr. dep. dep. arr. arr. ^Express. 7'45 p.m. 9*35 ,, I'35 A.M. 1*40 ,, 4 ' 3 ° 6' 30 „ * 1st Class only. Mail and Express Services to Belgium, Germany, and the Rhine Via DOVER and CALAIS. 5 z< © Places from Day Service. Night Service. R hr London - dep. 7*25 A.M. 8-30 P.M. Dover - - - arr. 9" 2 5 io- 3 ° >, 0 Dover - - dep. 9"35 ,> 10-40 ,, M Calais 12*20 P.M. I *30 A.M. Lille - - 3'20 ,, 5 ' 3 ° „ P O Brussels - - arr. 6-55 ,, 9‘55 ,, U Antwerp - - }» - io- 7 ,, pJH Aix-la-Chapelle >» 3-25 A.M. 2- 5 P.M Cologne - *» 5" 0 ,, '* 9 >• © P © P o H * Places from Night Service. Day Service. Cologne - - dep. 10-30 p m. 10-45 a.m. Aix-la-Chapelle ,, ji2* o mid. 12-15 ,, Antwerp Brussels Lille - Calais - Dover - Dover - London. arr, about dep. arr. 6-15 A.M. I 0 - 3 O ,, 1- 2 o r.M. 2- 50 „ 3 45 ,1 5‘45 11 3-30 P.M. 5- 20 ,, 11-20 ,, 1-30 A.M. 3 ‘f° 4 ’ 3 ° 6- 30 ,, Via DOVER and OSTEND. & © P Sz< © P a o u * Places from Day- Service. dep. | arr. London Dover Dover Ostend arr. about Ostend - - dep. Brussels (N.Sta.) arr. Antwerp - - ,, Ai.-la-Chapelle ,, Cologne - - ,, 7-25 A M. 9‘ 2 5 - dep. j+9* 35 >, 3* o r.M. 4 * 4 ° ,» 6-55 >, 8 ‘i 5 >> 3*25 A M. 5* o Night Service. 8*30 P.M. 10-30 ,, +10-40,, 4-30 A.M. 7 ‘I° >> 10-15 ,, ii’3° ,, 2*5 », 4- o ,. + Sunday excepted. w t*., m F S a VJ a o W 3 9 > S .5 o ® x P Cl g ~ 5 _ ~ 5 tfl ® Z. H O - J •»>'P (0 ’?£ C 2 >,w* CL . © • Places from Night Service. Day Service. © Cologne - - dep. 10*30 P.M. 10-45 A.M. R Aix-la-Chapelle ,, I 2 * O MID. 12-15 ,, © Antwerp ~ - ,, 1 & 2 class. 3 30 P.M. Brussels - - ,, 6-i5 a.m. 3 4° .. Ostend * - ,, 3:8-22 ,, §6-35 ,, O Dover arr. about 2* 0 P.M. 2* C A.M. it Dover- - - dep. 3-45 .. 4 - 3° ,, London - - arr. 5-4; 6-30 ,, X Sunday excepted. § Saturday excepted. j §-- B.S o % a t£ r <\z r. - n c -- r '°'~ o-g © ' - — CT *2 JZ G © £ *■* ^4 zj , fess £ o s -T *-1 c n zi ,2-> & <£ c 52 — O rSiiOp u ~ © a 00 'S’- — 4 ) p . ce si w ~ ri £ a r> C Q, 9) 5 -o C T • ^ ■ _* * g ~ E L’EUROPE. MR. MONIER, PROPRIETOR. This first-rate Hotel, much frequented by Families and Gentlemen, situated in the finest part of the town, near the Railway Station and Promenade, is replete with every comfort: the apartments are tastefully and elegantly furnished. It is celebrated for its cleanliness, good attendance, and reasonable prices. Saloons, Reading, and Refreshment Rooms; Table d’Hote at 1 and 5 o’clock; Breakfasts and Dinners at all hours. Advantageous arrangements made with Families during the Winter Season. In front of the Hotel there is a fine extensive garden and large court-yard. Baths and carriages in the Hotel. Omnibuses and carriages belonging to the Hotel convey passengers to and from the Railway Station. English, French, Italian, and German spoken. Moderate prices. M I LAN. Hotel Cavour, Place Cavour, Opposite the Public Gardens. PROPRIETORS-J. SUARDI AND CO. This new and magnificent Establishment is fitted up with every modern appliance, and situated in the finest and most pleasant part of the City, close to the Station, the Grand Theatre, the National Museum, and the Protestant Church. The interior is perfect, and com¬ prises Baths on each floor, a Smoking and a Reading Room supplied with foreign newspapers. Excellent i’able-d’Hote. Charges very moderate and affixed in each room. The Manager will spare no endeavours to make travellers comfortable. Omnibus of the Hotel at the arrival of all trains. To be opened in May, Manager—Gh VALLETTA. TOURS, GRAND HOTEL DE BORDEAUX. PROPRIETOR—MR. FLEURY. This First-class Hotel is situated on the Boulevard, opposite the Railway Station. The accommodation at this Hotel is most comfortable, and suitable for Families or single Gentlemen; and no efforts will be spared by the Proprietor to render his Patrons’ stay at his Hotel both pleasant and satisfactory. Baths in the Hotel. English spohen. VIENNA. GRAND HOTEL NATIONAL, LEOPOLDSTADT. Contains 200 richly furnished Apartments, varying in price from 6 Florins to 50 Reich- thalcrs, together with Coffee, Billiard, and Smoking Rooms, also Saloons for Reading and Recreation, provided with all the best Journals of England, Germany, and France. Post Office, Government Telegraph Office, and Photographic Studio on the Premises. Restaurant a la carte, at fixed prices at all hours. Elegant carriages always ready for the convenience of travellers, and Omnibuses constantly running to the Railway Stations. This Hotel, the largest in Vienna, offers the most desirable advantages to travellers, as, irrespective of its excellent accommodation, it is situated in the most pleasant and finest part of the town. llBanagtrs and Proprietors, Much ami Mayer. 4(5 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER May, ANTWERP. UR, PLACE DE MEIR, 26 . - o q’ CX * ■ ■ T HIS old-established and liighly-recommended Hotel, which has been considerably enlarged, is situated in the finest and healthiest square of the city of Antwerp; its cleanliness and the excellency of the table-d’hote and wines, added to the attention and civility shown to all visitors, have made it deservedly popular. HOT AND COLD BATHS. ENGLISH AND FRENCH NEWSPAPERS. LYONS. GRAND HOTEL DE LYON, RUE IMPfiRIALE, AND PLACE DE LA BOURSE. rilWO HUNDRED BEDROOMS, and TWENTY SALOONS, in every Variety; Large and Small Apartments for Families, elegantly furnished; Saloons for Official Receptions; Conversational and Reading Rooms; Coffee and Smoking Divan ; Baths; Private Carriages, Omnibuses, Restaurant; Service in the Apartments, a la Carte, or at fixed prices. A languages spoulew. The GRAND HOTEL DE LYON is too important and too well known to require inju¬ dicious praise : it suffices to state that it cost nearly THREE MILLIONS OF FRANCS, and that the accommodation is of so comfortable and luxurious a character as to attract the notice of all visitors. Although the GRAND HOTEL DE LYON affords the most elegant accommodation for the highest classes, it is frequented by visitors of the humblest pretensions. Rooms at 2 frs. very comfortably furnished. TABLE D’HOTE at 4 frs. In consequence of the Proprietors having contracted with the Bordeaux and Burgundy Wine-growers for supplies of their Best Wines, qualities of the first vintages may be had at this Hotel at moderate prices. Since the Hotel has been in the hands of new Proprietors, instead of a Company, the reduction they have made in the prices precludes them from paying Fees to the Cab and Coach Drivers at the Railway Station. Travellers are therefore requested to bear in mind that the Grand Hotel de Lyon is situated in the centre of the Rue Imperiale near the Bank of France, and opposite the Palace of the Bourse. 1865. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER 47 WILDBAD. (Five Leagues from Pforzheim.') — XX- Hotel Klumpp, formerly Hotel de l’Ours, Mr. W. KLUMPP, Proprietor. 'V. v/VA \y-\ r PHIS First-class Hotel, containing 36 Salons, and 170 Bed- 1 rooms, with a separate Breakfast and Reading Room, as well as a very- extensive and elegant Dining Room, Artificial Garden over the River, is situated opposite the Bath and Conversation House, and in the immediate vicinity of the Promenade. It is celebrated for its elegant and comfortable apartments, good cuisine and cellar, and deserves its wide-spread reputation as an excellent hotel. Table-d’hote at One and Five o’clock. Breakfasts and Suppers a la carte. EXCHANGE OFFICE. Correspondent of the principal Banking-houses of London for the payment of Circular Notes and Letters of Credit. During the season it is the office of the Diligence to Pforzheim Station of the Baden Railway, which leaves Wildbad for the Courrier and Express Trains, and returns from Pforzheim after the arrival of these trains. Through Tickets issued, and Baggage Registered, to and from most of the principal towns. SPA; BELGIUM. —— *o* - HOTEL DE FLANDRE, Mr. STJRY, Pere, Proprietor. ontains One Hundred and Fifty Bedrooms and Twenty-Five Sitting Rooms, furnished in modern style and taste. T HIS Establishment enjoys the patronage of the best Families on the Continent, and of England. It is situated in the most healthy part of the town ; and recommends itself from its EXCELLENT CUISINE and the politeness of its proprietor. From its numerous and vast Apartments, Mr. Sury is able to receive the largest Families at any time during the season. A GOOD CELLAR. Fine Garden. Omnibus for arrivals and departures. ‘ The Times' newspaper taken in. TREVES; ON THE MOSELLE. ———®o«- HOTEL DE LA IYJASSON ROUGE (Rothes Haus in Trier). Proprietor, Mr. JOSEPH BECKER. S INCE 1861 this Hotel has been greatly enlarged. It is situated in the principal market-place, and offers to Tourists and large Families every comfort and convenience. ‘The Times’ and ‘ L’Independance ’ taken in during the season. Apartments from If. 50c. to 5f. 48 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, ALICANTE (Spain). GRAND HOTEL BOS&EO, Paseo de la Reina. 'THUS fine Establishment, so much patronized by Travellers, is situated in the centre of the town, in front of the Theatre. Entirely remodelled in 1802 by its Proprietor, Mr. Bossio, it offers to Travellers every advantage, as much for its elegant apartments as for its comforts. Rooms at all prices. Cafe on the Boulevard. ANGOULEME (Charente, France). GRAND HOTEL DU~PALAIS, Place du Murier, Mb. VALLENTIN, Proprietor. r PHIS first-class Hotel for Families and Gentlemen is admirably situated, and affords excellent accommodation at reasonable prices. BADEN-BADEN. —— tO* - Hotel de Hollande : Proprietor, A. Roessler. r FHIS favourite and first-class Hotel, situated near the Kursaal, Pro- menade, and Theatre, commands one of the most charming views in Baden. The increase of business rendering it necessary to enlarge the Hotel, it now consists of more than a hundred sleeping apartments, elegant sitting-rooms, and a garden for the use of visitors. It is conducted under the immediate superin¬ tendence of the Proprietor, who endeavours, by the most strict attention and exceedingly moderate prices, to merit the continued patronage of English visitors. Galignani's and other Journals. The Wines of this Hotel are reputed of the best quality in Baden. Fixed moderate charges for everything. Breakfast, Cafd, 86 kreutzers; Tea, 42 krs. Table d'Hftte at One, 1 fl. 24 kr.; at Five, 1 fl. 48 kr. Mr. Roessler, remaining sole Proprietor, will spare no pains to deserve the confidence of English Travellers English is spoken. Open during the Winter. BIARRITZ. HOTEL DE FRANCE, And the magnificent Maison Garderes. Proprietor, Mr. GARDERES. rpHESE two first-class Establishments are delightfully situated on the Beach, in front of the Imperial Chateau, the Baths, and in the centre of the Promenades. They are furnished in a most superior style, with every comfort and convenience that can he desired by English or American Tra¬ vellers. Moderate charges. The Proprietor speaks English. Carriages for Excursions in the Pyrenees and Spain. Table-d’Hote. 1 The Times ’ newspaper. 1865. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 49 TURIN. PROPRIETORS— MESSRS. BORATTI AND CASALEGGIO. Situated, Place du Chateau, opposite the King’s Palace. r ipHIS unrivalled and admirably conducted Hotel has been entirely refurnished to afford great comfort, and in the very best taste, and thus peculiarly recommends itself to the notice of English travellers. EXCELLENT TABLE D’HOTE, at o’clock. Without Wine, 4 fr.; Dinner in Apartments, 6 fr.; Breakfast, with Tea or Coffee and Eggs, 2 fr. Interpreters Speaking all the European Languages. CHARGES MODERATE. THE TIMES NEWSPAPER. An. Omnibus from the Hotel will be found at every Train. E 50 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, London and South-Western Railway, LONDON STATION, WATERLOO BRIDGE. The Cheap and Picturesque Route to PARIS, ROUEN, HONFLEUR, AND CAEN, Via SOUTHAMPTON and HA VRE. (For Days and Hours of Departure, which vary, see Monthly Time Bills.) Fares throughout (London and Paris)— First Class, 28/0 5 Second Class, 20/0- Return Tickets (available for one month)— First Class, 50/0 j Second Class, 36/0* JERSEY, GUERNSEY, AND ST. MALO, MAIL SERVICE, Via SOUTHAMPTON—'The favourite Route. Every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. Fares throughout (London and Jersey or Guernsey)— 31/0 First ; 21/O Second Class, Return Tickets (available for One Month)— 45/0 First ; or 35/0 Second Class. The Last Train from London in time for the Steamers leaves at 8.30 p.m. For further information apply to Mr. Howe, 3, Place Vendome, Paris.—-Mr. Langstaff, 47, Grand Quai, Havre.—Mr. Enault, Honfleur.—Mr. E. D. Le Couteur, Jersey.—Mr. Barbet, Guernsey.—Captain Gaudin, St. Malo.—Or to Mr. E. K. Corke, Steam Packet Superintendent, Southampton. SWISS COURIERS’ AND TRAVELLING SERVANTS’ SOCIETY, T)EG to inform the Nobility and Gentry, should they require the services of a Courier or Travelling Servant, only those whose characters have borne the strictest investigation, both as regards sobriety, honesty, and general good conduct, have been admitted into the Society, and who are capable of fulfilling their duties efficiently. The Society therefore ventures to solicit your patronage, and hopes to deserve your future favours. All information may be obtained of the Secretary , HENRY MASSEY, Stationer, 103, TABK STREET, GROSVENOR SQUARE, Established 1856. 1865. 51 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. DORRELL & SON’S PASSPO RT AGENCY, 15, CHARING CROSS, S.W. ft/NAAAA/VAAA/'AAAA/VNAA/VAA/' Every Information given respecting Travelling on the Continent. French and Italian spoken, and Correspondence carried on in either Language. British Subjects visit¬ ing the Continent will save trouble and expense by obtaining their Pass¬ ports through the above Agency. No personal attendance is required, and country residents may have their Pass¬ ports forwarded through the post. A ‘Passport Prospectus,’ containing every particular in de- Fee, Obtaining Passport, Is.; Visas, is. each. Cases, is. tail, by post, on applica¬ tion. Passports Mounted, and enclosed in Cases, with the name of the bearer impressed in gold on the outside; thus af¬ fording security against injury or loss, and pre¬ venting delay in the frequent examination of the Passport when tra¬ velling. 6 d. to 5s. each. THE LATEST EDITIONS OF MURRAY’S HANDBOOKS. English and Foreign Stationery, Dialogue Books, Couriers’ Bags, Pocket- books and Purses of every description, Travelling Inkstands, and a va¬ riety of other Articles useful for Travellers. TITLE athen^um. EVERY SATURDAY, OF ANY BOOKSELLER OR NEWS AGENT, PRICE THREEPENCE. Each Half-Yearly Volume complete in itself , with Title-Page and Index. q THE ATHENJEXJM JOURNAL OF ENGLISH AND FOREIGN LITERATURE, SCIENCE, AND THE FINE ARTS. Contains :—Reviews of every important New Book— Reports of the Learned Societies— Authentic Accounts of Scientific Voyages and Expeditions — Foreign Correspondence on Subjects relating to Literature, Science, and Art —Criticisms on Art, Music, and Drama—Biographical Notices of dis¬ tinguished Men— Original Papers and Poems—Weekly Gossip. THE ATHENJEUM is so conducted that the reader, however distant, is, in respect to Literature, Science, and Art, on an equality in point of information with the best-informed circles of the Metropolis. Subscription for Twelve Months, 13s.; Six Months, 6s. 6d. If required to he sent by Post, the Postage extra. Office for Advertisements— 1 20, WELLINGTON STREET, STRAND, LONDON, W.C. E 2 S3 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, ESTABLISHED 1854. ENGLISH AND GERMAN SOCIETY OF COURIERS AND TRAVELLING SERVANTS, 440, WEST STRAND, LONDON, W.C. f|\LIE NOBILITY and GENTRY are most respectfully informed that, deeply impressed with the responsible duties devolving upon Couriers aud Travelling Servants, a limited number of respectable Englishmen and Germans have formed themselves into a Society, to which no Member is eligible unless of strict integrity, general information, experience, and good behaviour in previous engagements, which can be authenticated by reference to Employers. At the same time they beg to inform the Nobility, Gentry, and Families that experienced Servants of the above class, of the highest character and integrity, may be engaged at LEE & CARTER'S GXJIDE AJST> TRAVELLING 13JEI?*6 r T% 440, WEST STRAND, W.C., where a large collection of MURRAY’S AND OTHER GUIDES, MAPS, DICTIONARIES, DIALOGUES, &c., IN ALL LANGUAGES, And everything required by Travellers, is kept in great variety, AND ALL INFORMATION ABOUT " PASSPORTS CAN BE OBTAINED. 1865 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 53 LAKE OF COMO, BELLAGGXO. GREAT BRITAIN HOTEL. L ARGE and Small Apartments, Reading, Billiard, and Smoking Rooms, Baths in the Hotel and on the Lake. Divine Service accord ing to the Established Church throughout the year. This Hotel is beautifully situated, enjoying at once a full and splendid view of the Lake and of the villas Melzi, Serbelloni, and Sommariva. The Hotel, having been recently enlarged, will afford every possible comfort to strangers during their stay on the Lake. Proprietario: A. MELLA, CANNES. GRAY’S FAMILY HOTEL. THIS favourite establishment (which is open all the year) A is situated on the beach, commanding a beautiful view of the Mediterranean, and combines the quiet and comfort of a private house with the elegance of a First- class Hotel. ‘ The Times,’ ‘ Illustrated London News,’ and ‘ Punch ’ are taken in. Facilities for Sea-bathing. Direct communication by rail with Marseilles in 5J hours, and with Nice in 1 hour.—N.B. The Proprietor is English. CHAMEEEY, HOTEL 13E FRANCE. Mr. CHIRON, Proprietor. A NEW Establishment, situated upon the Quay Nesin, in an open, airy situation, close to the Railway Station, Large and small Apartments, scrupulously clean. Table d’Hote at 11 and 6 o’clock, GENEVA. HOTEL X>E LA COURONNE. Proprietor, Mr. CARL ALDINGER. THIS ESTABLISHMENT, of the FIRST RANK, newly A furnished throughout, situated in front of the magnificent bridge of Mont Blanc and the English Garden, enjoys a most extended view upon Lake Leman and Mont Blanc. English and American newspapers. Table d’Hote at 1, 5, and 7 o’clock. Omnibus of the Hotel to meet all Trains. 54 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, P A U, THE ENGLISH BANK, Established in 1852, “ MUSCRAVE CLAY & CO., late WM. TAYLOR & CO., 19, R XT E Xj A T A PIE, Agent to all the London Bankers. London Agents, The Union Bank of London. P A U. TjE grand hotel. AVENUE GRAND HOTEL. AN the FIRST of SEPTEMBER, 1865, Opening of the Ay Grand Hotel. Large and Small Apartments. 140 Bed Rooms; 14 Large Saloons; 12 Small Saloons; 12 Dining Rooms. Southern aspect, facing the magnificent panorama of the Pyrenees. Strictest attention to comfort. Near the English and Scotch Churches. Furnished-— VILLA MON PAYS, opposite the Chateau Henri IV. IRELAND. ANTRIM ARMS HOTEL, PORTRXJSH. | TPWARDS of 100 APARTMENTS. Noble Coffee Room ^ and Saloon. Billiard and Smoking Rooms. Most of the Apaitments face the Sea. Table d’Hote daily. Vehicles to the Giant’s Causeway and back daily from the Hotel. An Omnibus attends all Trains and Steamers to convey Visitors to the above Hotel Free. Bed Rooms, 2s., 3s. ; Sitting Rooms from 3s. to 5s. Attendance, all Servants included, Is. per day. Breakfasts from Is. 6d. Dinners from 3s. French Spoken. BADEN-BADEN. V I C T O R, I Jl HOTEL. Proprietor, Mr. FRANZ GR0SH0LZ. r jPHIS is one of the finest built and best furnished First-class a. Hotels, situated on the new Promenade, near the Kursaal and Theatre ; it commands the most charming views in Baden. It is reputed to be one of the best Hotels in Germany. The Table and Wines are excellent, with prompt attendance and great civility. Prices very moderate. English and other Journals. 1865 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 55 QALOM’S NEW OPERA and FIELD GLASS, and THE Lj RECONNOITERER GLASS, price 10s. lOrf., 6ent free. This ‘Tourist’s Favourite, through extraordinary division of labour, distinctly shows small windows 10 miles off, land¬ scape at 30 miles,- Jupiter’s moons, &c. The Marquess of Caermarthen: “The Reconnoiterer is very good.’’ Rev. Lord Scarsdale “ approves of it.” Lord Gifford, of Ampncy: “ Most useful.” Lord Garvagh : “ Remarkably good.” Sir Dig by Cayley, of Brompton : “ It gives me complete satisfaction, and is won¬ derfully good.” Major Starkey, of Wrenbury Hall, Nant- wich: “Quite as powerful as that for which I gave 5 1. 5s.” Cart. Sindey, Royal Small Arms Factory, Enfield Lock, “presents his compliments to Messrs. Salom & Co., and begs to enclose 10s. lOd. for a Reconnoiterer Glass, having just tried that sent to Lieut. Hopkins, and found it effective at the 1000-yards range.” F. II. Fawkes, of Farnley Ilall, Esq.: “ J. never before mot an article that so com¬ pletely answered the recommendation of its maker; nor, although I have tried many a Glass, combining so much power for its slzo with so much clearness.” The Field: “We have carefully tried it at an 800 -yard rifle range against all the Glasses possessed by members of the Corps, and found it fully equal to any of those pre¬ sent, although they had cost moro than four times its price.” Notes and Queries : “ What intending tourist will now start without such an indis¬ pensable companion to a pleasure trip?” The celebrated “ HYTIIE” GLASS shows bullet-marks at 1200 yards, a man at .‘H miles, price 31s. (id. All the above Glasses respectively, bearing the registered trade-marks, “ Salop),” '* Reconnoiterer,” and “Hythe,” are only to be had direct from SALOM & CO., 98, Princes Street, Edinburgh. No Agents of any kind anywhere. ITR. TENNANT, GEOLOGIST, 149, STRAND, LONDON, III. W.C., gives Practical Instruction in Mineralogy and Geology. He can also supply Elementary Collections of Minerals, Rocks, and Fossils, on the following terms:— 100 Small Specimens, in cabinet, with three trays.£2 2 0 *200 Specimens, larger, in cabinet, with five trays. 5 5 0 300 Specimens, larger, in cabinet, with eight drawers.10 10 0 400 Specimens, larger, in cabinet, with twelve drawers .... 21 0 0 More extensive Collections, to illustrate Geology, at 50 to 100 Guineas each, with every requisite to assist those commencing the study of this interesting science, a knowledge of which affords so much pleasure to the traveller In all parts of the world. * A Collection for Five Guineas which will illustrate the recent works on Geology by Ansted, Buckland, Jukes, Murchison, Phillips, and especially the new edition of Lyell’s ‘.Elements,’ contains 200 Specimens, in a cabinet, with live trays, comprising the following, viz.:— Minerals which are either the components of Rocks, or occasionally imbedded in themQuartz, Agate, Chalcedony, Jasper, Garnet, Zeolite, Hornblende, Augite, Asbestus, Felspar, Mica, Talc, Tourmaline, Calcareous Spar, Fluor, Selenite, Baryta, Strontia, Salt Cryolite, Sulphur, Plumbago, Bitumen, Jet, &c. Native Metals or Metalliferous Mine¬ rals: these are found in masses, in beds, or in veins, and occasionally in the beds of rivers. Specimens of the following Metallic Ores are contained in the Cabinet:—Iron, Manganese, Lead, Tin, Zinc, Copper, Antimony, Silver, Gold, Platina, &c. Rocks: —Granite, Gneiss, Mica-slate, Porphyry, Serpentine, Sandstones, Limestones, Basalt, Lavas, &c. Palaeozoic Fossils, from the Llandeilo, Wenlock, Ludlow, Devonian, and Carboniferous Rocks. Secon¬ dary Fossils, from the Trias, Lias, Oolite, Wealden, and Cretaceous Groups. Tertiary Fossils, from the Woolwich, Barton, and Bracklesham Beds, London Clay, Crag, &c. In the more expensive Collections some of the Specimens are rare, and all more select. INTERESTING and EXTENSIVE COLLECTION of MINERALS for SALE. Mr. Tennant bought at the Stowe Sale the Duke of Buckingham’s Collection of Minerals, which he has greatly enriched by a Collection of Coloured Diamonds, Gold from Canada, Wales, California, Australia, and many other specimens of great vulue obtained from the Exhibitions of 1851 and 1862. The Collection, consisting of 3000 Specimens, is in two cabi¬ nets, each containing thirty drawers, with a glass case on the top for large specimens, price 20001. This collection is well adapted for any public Institution, or persons engaged in Practical Geology. 56 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, WORKS ON HEALTH-RESORTS, CLIMATES, AND WATERS, BY EDWIN LEE, M.D., Member of Several Medical Academies and Societies. NICE AND ITS CLIMATE. Price 3a. 6d. NICE ET SON CLIMAT. Second Edition. Nearly ready. MENTON AND SAN REMO. Price la. THE SOUTH OF FRANCE (IIyeres, Cannes, Patj), Second Edition, Price 3s. SPAIN AND ITS CLIMATES. Price 3s. 6d. BATHS OF GERMANY. 4th Edition. Price 7s. BATHS OF NASSAU (separately). Price 2s. Qd. BATHS OF FRANCE AND SWITZERLAND. (Fourth Edition, pre¬ paring for Publication.) WATERING-PLACES OF ENGLAND. Fourth Edition. Price 7s. fid. London: W. J, Adams, 59, Fleet Street, E.C.; Churchill & Sons, New Burlington Street, W. Paris: Galignani & Co., Rue de Rivoli. VEVAY (Switzerland). h 6tel MONNET, Dit des 3 Couronnes. Messrs. SCHOTT & CO., Proprietors, and Successors to Mr. Monnet. T HIS Large and First-class Establishment, situated close to the Lake, affords superior accommodation for Families and Gentlemen. It is extensively patronised for its comfort and cleanliness. Persons remaining some time will find this a most desirable Residence ; and from October 15 to June 1 they can live here moderately en pension. Reading-room well supplied with papers. All languages spoken. CONTINENTAL SCHOOL, DRESDEN, 7, Struve Strasse, TN a First-Rate ESTABLISHMENT for YOUNG LADIES, A conducted by Madame Dutel, there are now a few vacancies in consequence of several Pupils having finished their Education. The house is situated in one of the healthiest parts of Dresden, and combines more of the comforts of an English home than are to be generally met with in a Continental School. Eminent Masters regularly attend; German, French, and English are alike well spoken; and the best classical music is taught. References may be made to, and Prospec¬ tuses obtained from, Mr. A. Ramsay, 45, Norland Square, London, W. May, 1865. 1865. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 57 INTERLAKEN. Kept by J, MULLER, ——OHD^OC—- 'THIS First-class Establishment has long been renowned as one of the most comfortable and best managed Hotels in Switzerland, Beautifully situated, with splendid views of the Jungfrau. Large and small apartments. The principal European newspapers, including the ‘Times’ and ‘ Galignani,’ Good Table and active Attendants. INTERLAKEN. MULLEK, Jim., O NE of the largest and finest Stocks in the country. Every attention paid to orders. Goods forwarded to every part of the world. Workshops and fchow-rooms close to the Belvedere Hotel. MONT-RIANT, Chemin de Georgette, pres la Gare, LAUSAIKE. TENUE PAR Mme. LARGUIER. Chambres an Midi, et Vue magnifique sur le Lac, les Alpes, et le Jura.—Facilite pour les Omnibus de la Gare et des Bateaux. Agreables Promenades dans les Environs. 58 MURRAY’S 'HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. [May, FLORENCE. BEIZZI AND NICCOLAPS Musical K stablishmeut. PIANOFORTES, OF THE BEST MAKERS, FOR SALE AND ON HIRE, GENERAL DEPOT FOR WIND INSTRUMENTS. Italian and Foreign Music. Musical Lending Library. PIAZZA MADONNA, I BRANCH HOUSE (Music DeiAt), PALAZZO ALDOBRANDINr. | 12, VIA CERRETANI. ZURICH. HOTEL BELLEVUE AU LAC. Proprietor: C. GUYER. r ]^HIS splendid and admirably conducted establishment, situ¬ ated on t,he shore of the Lake, commands, by its unsurpassed position, the best view of the Lake, Alps, and Glaciers, and offers, by its superior internal arrangements, the comforts of Private Apartments and Public Parlours, with careful, civil, and quiet attendants—all desirable attractions to travellers as a place of residence or of temporary sojourn. Pension at reduced prices, and arrangements made for families from, October to July. Notice.-125 Apartments facia" the laikc. FOR THE RECEPTION AND FORWARDING OF LUGGAGE, Or the Purchase and Sending Out of British Goods. Tourists and English Residents in all parts of the world will find great advantage in applying to (L CATCHPOOL, SHIPPING AGENT, .63, GREAT TOWER STREET, London. 1865. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER* 59 BEDFORD HOTEL, BRIGHTON, ESTABLISHED 1837, Offers the quietude and comforts of a Private Residence. Jft ls a du antacq eanshq. and canuenienthf. situated on the Oldest $Liff, nemo tied, plain the. noise oft the taum. THIS FIRST-CLASS ESTABLISHMENT, hJjtJ- cansidecahLe autlatj. and cacepnt o.cfqanhq.a- tion, has heen cendeced equal to. the tequine - merits op the dcuq., Jft mitt he pound to he eq.uaLhj economic uiith minac establishments, combined, uiith the ceclainltj. op compact and. attention, THE COFFEE-ROOM IS SPACIOUS AND APART, THE WINES ARE CF THE BEST QUALITY, And the Cuisine is under the management of an experienced Chef from Paris. SMOKING AND BILLIARD-ROOMS are provided for the use of Residents and their friends; and Sea-water Service, fresh with the Tide, is available. Telegraph News is supplied to the Hotel several times a-day, There being a Special Office on the Premises, as well as a Post-office. EDWIN TAYLOR, Secretary and Manager. 60 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. GENEVA. (Switzerland). HOTEL ~XLE L’ECU. New Proprietor, GUSTAVE WOLFF; ALSO Proprietor of the BOTBIa BYBOftr, near Villeneuve. T HIS unrivalled and admirably-conducted Hotel, newly restored by Mr. Wolff, has long enjoyed an extensive and high reputation among Travellers. Situated in the finest part of the Town, and facing the Lake, it commands a beautiful View of the Mountains and Environs. Its accommodation is of so superior a character that Tourists will find it a highly desirable place of residence or of temporary sojourn. Charges very Moderate. Pension for the Winter Season. Excellent Table-d’Hote: at 1 o’clock 3 fr., at 5 and 7 o'clock 4 fr. New Reading and Smoking Rooms. » GENEVE. Hotel Bean Rivage et Angleterre. Kept by Messrs, MAYER and KUNZ. T HIS splendid Establishment, just constructed on a grand Scale, has the advan¬ tage of being o o THE MOST PLEASANTLY SITUATED HOTEL IN GENEVA, ON THE QUAI DU MONT BLANC, Near the English Church, the Steamboat Landing, and the Railway Station, surrounded by the Jardin des Alps and delightful Promenades. It contains 130 well-furnished Bed and Sitting Rooms in every variety, and has 15 Balconies; from its delightful Terraces, and from each Window of the Hotel, Mont Blanc, the Lake, the new Bridge, and the Town can be seen in their fullest extent. The Charges are Moderate, and a reduced price for a 'protracted stay. Pension in the Winter Months. Omnibus to and from the Station for every Train. Table-d’Hote 1, 5, and 8 o’clock. 1865. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 61 BAGNERES DE LUCHON, PYRENEES. Grand Hotel Bonne-Maison et de Londres, Mr. VIDAL, Jun., Proprietor. Situated opposite the Thermal Establishment or Bath-rooms. This favourite and first-rate Hotel affords extensive accommodation of the best description for a large number of visitors. It is delightfully situated, and will be found most comfortable for Families or Gentlemen. BRUSSELS. (THE GRAND HOTEL DE SAXE, Rue Neuve, 77 and 79, X is admirably situated, near tbe Boulevards, Theatre, and Railway Stations. Fixed pricesBreakfast, Ilf.; Table-d’hote at 5 o’clock, 3f.; Sitting-rooms, 3f. to lOf.; Bedrooms ljf. to 3f. Excellent wines and good attendance. The English four-horse mail-coach starts from this Hotel for Waterloo every morning at half-past nine. KETtVAND, Proprietor. M 1 LAN. HOTEL GRANDE BRETAGNA, COjRSIA belle valla, Near the Cathedral, in the centre of the City. This old-established Hotel, much improved of late, is clean, comfortable, and with moderate charges. Newspapers, Table-d’hote, and Baths. English spoken. N.B.— The Omnibus of the Hotel is always in attendance at the Railway Station. MADRID. TTOTEL DE LOS PRINC1PES, Nos. 11 and 12, Puerta del X1 Sol. In this establishment, one of tile first in Europe, and frequented by the nobility of Spain, France, and England, the Table-d’hote is of the most superior description, and the apartments, which are elegantly furnished and decorated, with 140 balconies, have a good View of the celebrated Puerta del Sol, and the Reading Room is supplied with the principal papers. NAMUR. H OTEL DE BELLE VUE.— Mr. Henri FroHlich, Pro- prietor.—Among the Hotels for which Belgium is celebrated, the Hotel de Belle Vue de Namur has always been considered as one of the best. The Proprietor spares no pains to render it deserving of this character, and to make English Travellers comfortable on reason¬ able terms. Fixed pricesBedrooms, If. 50c. to 2f., according to the floor; Breakfast, If.; Table-d’hote, 2f. This hotel is situated in the most healthy part of the town, commanding a fine view of the citadel and adjacent country. N.B.—-There is an elegant drawing-room, with piano and music for the special use of visitors. Hot and cold baths in the bour-e. The Cuisine department will be found excellent, and the Wines very superior. An Omnibus belonging to the Hotel conveys passengers to and from the Railway Station and Steamboats. (12 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, © &U- —- C-\ -sVAE O* and Visitors to the Seaside, and others exposed to the scorching rays of the Sun and heated particles of Dust, will find HOWLANDS’ RALYDOR a most refreshing preparation for the Com- plexion, dispelling the cloud of languor and relaxation, allaying all heat and irritability, and immediately affording the pleasing sensa¬ tion attending restored elasticity and health¬ ful state of the skin. Freckles, Tan, Spots, Pimples, Flushes, and Discolouration, fly before its application, and give place to delicate clearness, with the glow of beauty and of bloom. In cases of sunburn, or stings of insects, its virtues have long been acknowledged. Price 4s. 6d. and 8s. 6d. per Bottle. The heat of summer also frequently com¬ municates a dryness to the hair, and a ten¬ dency to fall off, which may be completely obviated by the use of HOWLANDS’ MACASSAR OIL, a delightfully fragrant and transparent pre¬ paration, and as an invigorator and beautifier of the Hair beyond all precedent. Price 3s. 6 d., 7s., 10s. 6 d. (equal to four small), and 21s. per Bottle. WHITE AND SOUND TEETH are indispensable to Personal Attraction, and to health and longevity by the proper mas¬ tication of food. ROWLANDS’ 0D0NT0, OR, PEARL DENTIFRICE, a White Powder, compounded of the choicest and most fragrant exotics. It bestows on the Teeth a pearl-like whiteness, frees them from Tartar, and imparts to the Gums a healthy firmness, and to the Breath a pleasing fragrance. Price 2s. 9 d. per Box. SOLD AT 20, HATTON GARDEN, LONDON; And by Chemists and Perf umers. V Ask for “ROWLAND’S” Articles. HANDSOME PRESENT. -*< 4 - Now Heady, One Volume 8vo., 18s. cloth; 31s. 6 d. calf; 36s. morocco, THE BOOK op COMMON PRAYER. Illustrated with Borders and Initial Letters printed in red and black, and Historical Engravings to illustrate the Gospels. Edited "with Notes explaining the Order and History of the Offices. BY REV. THOMAS JAMES, M.A. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Christ’s Entry into Jerusalem Any.da Fiesole. St. John in the Wilderness . . Overbeclc. Christmas Day—The Nativity . Raphael. Stoning of St. Stephen .... Raphael. St. John Evangelist. Raphael. Flight into Egypt . . . Any. da Fiesole. Adoration of the Magi .... Raphael. Infant Jesus in the Temple . . Overbeclc. Christ healing the Blind . . . Foussin. Mary Magdalen. Raphael. Judas receiving the Money Any. da Fiesole. The Last Supper. Raphael. Christ before Pilate. Overbeck. Good Friday—The Crucifixion . Raphael. „ „ Christ bearing the > ,- Cross ... | uapuaet. The Entombment. Raphael. Easter Day—The Resurrection . Raphael. The Good Shepherd. Overbeclc. Day of Pentecost. Raphael. The Ascension. Raphael. Miraculous Draught of Fishes . Raphael. The Widow’s Son of Nain . . Overbeclc. Tribute Money. Naeke. The Raising of Jairus’s Daughter Overbeck. St. Andrew. Raphael. St. Thomas’s Incredulity . . . Raphael. St. Paul. Raphael. Conversion of St. Paul .... Raphael. Presentation in the Temple Fra Bartolomeo. Annunciation of the Virgin . . Raphael. St. Mark. Fra Bartolomeo. St. Peter. Raphael. St. Bartholomew. Raphael. St. Matthew. Raphael. St. Michael. Raphael. St. Luke. Overbeck. St. Simon and St. Jude .... Raphael. ‘ Not surpassed by the life-engrossing, la¬ borious productions of those good old tran¬ scribers in cloistered cells of the past.’— Morniny Post. JOHN MURRAY,'ALBEMARLE STREET. 1865.] i MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 63 PARIS. -o-o^g^oo- HOTEL DES DEUX MONDES ET D’ANGLETEliRE, 8, RUE D'ANTIN, Near the TiiilericS) Place Vets dome, ami the Boulevards. This magnificent first-class Hotel, recently constructed and elegantly furnished in tlie newest and most fashionable style, surrounded by gardens, justifies the preference accorded to it by Families and Gentlemen for the splendour and comfort of its Apartments, its excellent Cuisine , and the care and atten¬ tion shown to all who honour the Hotel with their patronage. LARGE AND SMALL APARTMENTS, AND SINGLE ROOMS, AT MODERATE CHARGES. PRIVATE RESTAURANT. SPLENDID COFFEE-ROOMS, SALOONS, READING AND SMOKING ROOMS. LETTER-BOX. INTERPRETERS. HORSES, ELEGANT CARRIAGES, OMNIBUSES FOR THE RAILWAYS. 6 4 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May HISTORY OP THE YEAR 1864. Just published, in 8vo., price 18s., THE ANNUAL REGISTER; A REVIEW OF PUBLIC EVENTS AT HOME AND ABROAD, FOR THE YEAR 1864; Being the Second Volume of an Improved Series. The following Critiques upon the Volume for 1863 have been selected from a number of favourable Notices :— « This is the first of a new and improved series, upon which a most favourable judgment may be pronounced. Tile value of a book of this kind cannot be over-estimated.”— Press. “ There is abundant assurance about the manner and method of its arrangement to prove that persons well up in literature have been employed to put it together, the result of which is, that as a work of reference it will be invaluable.”— Pell's Messenger. “ In its improved form, the ‘Annual Register’ will be welcome to all who wish for a good and trustworthy record of the past year.”— Reader. ir “ The ‘ History of England’ has been transformed into a continuous narrative from a mere abridgment of Hansard, and the notices of foreign countries are as careful as ever.” —Spectator “ This, the latest volume, presents many improvements.Of great value to all who take an interest in the affairs of Nations .”—Rally News. London: RIVINGTONS, Waterloo Place; and the other Proprietors. F AMILY MEDICINE. — The most healthy Families are visited, at times, with some ailments, and at such times no medicine can be resorted to with more perfect confidence than This esteemed Medicine gives immediate relief, without the slightest pain or inconvenience. May be had of any Chemist. 1865. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 65 Mr. Murrays Student's Manuals FOR ADVANCED SCHOLARS. ‘ This series of Students’ Manuals, edited for the most part by Dr. Wm. Smith, possess several distinctive features which render them singularly valuable as educational works. While there is an utter absence of flippancy in them, there is thought in every page, which cannot fail to excite thought in those who study them, and we are glad of an opportunity of directing the attention of such teachers as are not familiar with them to these, admirable schoolbooks .’— The Museum,. - - oO^CH)-- ENGLAND AND FRANCE. THE STUDENT’S HUME: A History of England, from A the Earliest Times. By DAVID HUME, corrected and continued to 1858. Woodcuts. 1’ost 8vo. Is. Gd. THE STUDENT’S HISTORY OF FRANCE. From the Earliest Times to the Establishment of the Second Empire, 1852. By W. H. PEAR¬ SON, M.A. Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 7s. 6 d. GREECE AND ROME. THE STUDENT’S HISTORY OF GREECE. From the Earliest Times to the Roman Conquest. By WM. SMITH, LL.D. Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 7s. 6 d. THE STUDENT’S HISTORY OF ROME. From the Ear¬ liest Times to the Establishment of the Empire. By DEAN LIDDELL. Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 7s. 6 d. THE STUDENT’S GIBBON : An Epitome of the History of the Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire. By EDWARD GIBBON. Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 7s. Cd. GEOGRAPHY. THE STUDENT’S MANUAL OF ANCIENT GEOGRA- PHY. By REV. W. L. BEVAN, M.A. Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 7s. Gd. LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE. THE STUDENT’S MANUAL OF THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE. By GEORGE P. MARSH. Edited, with additional Chapters and Notes. Post 8vo. 7 s. 6 d. THE STUDENT’S MANUAL OF ENGLISH LITEEA- TUBE. By T. B. SHAW, M.A. Edited, with Notes and Illustrations. Post 8vo. 7s. Gd THE STUDENT’S SPECIMENS OF ENGLISH L1TERA- TURE. Selected from the Chief Writers. By THOMAS B. SHAW, M.A. Edited with Additions. PostSvo. 7s. Gd. GRAMMARS. THE STUDENT’S GREEK GRAMMAR. By Professor CURTIUS. Translated under the Revision of the Author. Post 8vo. 7s. Gd. THE STUDENT’S LATIN GRAMMAR. By Wm. Smith, LL.D. Post 8vo. 7s. Gd. JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 66 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, May, Albemarle Street, May, 1865. THE NEW WORKS OF THE SEASON. THE ILIAD OF HOMER, rendered into English Blank A Verse. By the EARL OF DERBY. 5th Edition, revised. 2 vois. 8vo. 24s. II. LIFE AND TIMES OF SIR JOSHUA REYNOLDS, with Notices of his Contemporaries. By C. R. LESLIE, R.A., and TOM TAYLOR. Portrait and Illustrations. 2 vols. 8vo. 42s. III. THE ZAMBEZI AND ITS TRIBUTARIES, together with the Discovery of Lakes Shirwa and Nyassa ; 1858-64. By DAVID and CHARLES LIVINGSTONE. Map and Illustrations. 8vo. IV. THE GOTHIC ARCHITECTURE OF SPAIN ; from Personal Observations in that Country. By G. E. STREET, F.S.A. With 25 Plans and 100 Illustrations. Medium avo. 60s. V. THE THIRTY YEARS’ WAR; Lives of the Warriors of the 17th Century. By LIEUT.-GEN. HON. SIR EDWARD CUST, D.C.L. 2 vols. Crown Svo. 16s. VI. THE HOLY SEPULCHRE AND THE TEMPLE AT JERUSALKM; Two Lectures delivered at the Royal Institution, in 1862 and 1865. By JAMES FERGUSSON, F.H.S., &c. Woodcuts. 8vo. 7s. (id. VII. THE ILLUSTRATED FAMILY TESTAMENT. Edited with a short practical Commenary. By ARCHDEACON CHURTON, M.A., and Rev. W. BASIL JONES, M.A. With 110 Views of Subjects and Places mentioned in the Sacred Text, from Sketches and Photographs, 2 vols. Crown 8vo. 30s. vm. DOG-BREAKING: the most Expeditions, Certain, and Easy Method. With Odds and Ends for those who love the Dog and Gun. By Major-General HUTCHINSON. Fourth Edition. With additional Illustrations by Ketl. Crown 8vo. ix. ELEMENTS OF GEOLOGY; or, the Ancient. Changes of the Earth and its Inhabitants, as illustrated by Geological Monuments. By Sir CHARLES LYELL, Bart., F.RJ5. Sixth Edition. With 770 Woodcuts. 8vo. 18s. [Continued. 1865. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 67 THE NEW WORKS OF THE SEASON - continued. x. ADVENTURES OF ARMINIUS VAMBERY IN TURK- ISTAN, WHILE travelling in the Disguise oe A Dervish, in 1863. Map and Illustrations. 8vo. 21s. XI. RESEARCHES INTO THE EARLY HISTORY OF MAN- KIND, and tlie Development of Civilization. By E. B. TYLOR. Illustrations. 8vo. 12s. XII. EPHEMERA. By LORD LYTTELTON. Post 8vo. 10s. 6d. XIII. THE MODERN VASARI; A New History of Painting in ITALY, from new materials, recent researches, and personal inspection of the Works of Art in that Country. By J. A. CROWE and G. B. CAVALCASELLE. With 70 Illustrations. 2 vols. 8vo. 42s. XIV» THE SIBERIAN OVERLAND ROUTE, FROM PEKING TO PETERSBURG. By ALEXANDER M1CHIE. Map and Illustrations. 8vo. 16s. XV. MODERN WARFARE AND MODERN ARTILLERY. By Colonel MACDOUGALL. With Plans. Post 8vo. 12s. XVI# POEMS. By The Right Hon. SIR E. BULWER LYTTON, Bart., M.P. New Edition. Post 8vo. 10s. Qd. XVII. THREE MONTHS’ RESIDENCE AT NABLUS; with an account of the Modern Samaritans. By Rev. JOHN MILLS. Illustrations. Post 8vo. 10s. 6 d. XVIII. THE MUSIC OF THE ANCIENTS; particularly of the Assyrians, Egyptians, and Hebrews. By CARL ENGEL. With 100 Illustrations, 8 vo. 16s. XIX. A NEW HISTORY OF MODERN EUROPE; from the Taking of Constantinople by the Turks, to the Close of the War in the Crimea— 1453-1857. By THOS. H. DYER. With Copious Index. 4 vols. 8vo. 60s. XX# THE BRITISH ARMS IN NORTH CHINA AND JAPAN. By Staff Surgeon RENNIE. Post 8vo. 12s. JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 68 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, GENEVA. No. 2, PLACE DES BEEGUES. GEO. BAKER, ENGLISH CHEMIST & DRUGGIST. PRESCRIPTIONS CAREFULLY PREPARED. ALL KINDS OF PATENT MEDICINES AND PERFUMERY. Homoeopathic Preparations. Soda and Saratoga Water. Owing to the facilities accorded by the ‘ Posies Federates ,’ Medicines and Preparations of all kinds are forwarded with the greatest despatch and safety to all parts of Switzerland and the Continent. GENEVA. •-o- * HOTEL DE LA METROPOLE. CONDUCTED BY MR. WILLIAM WOLBOLD. This large and excellent Establishment, situated in the most favour¬ able quarter of the town, opposite the English Garden, and near all the principle edifices, enjoys the finest view of the Lake, in its full extent, and contains 200 most elegantly furnished Bed and Sitting-rooms in every variety. A beautiful Reading-room, where all the chief English, American, French, and German Newspapers are to be found, with a spacious Coffee and Smoking-room ; in short, every comfort travellers may expect from a first-rate Hotel, is at their disposition. The House, by its good ventilation, is exceedingly cool in summer, and in winter is well heated by large stoves. Charges very moderate, and Pension during the winter. Table-d’hote three times a day, at 4 fcs. each person, at 1, 5, and 7 o’clock. Omnibuses belonging to the Hotel to and from the Station for every train. Private Carriages and Cabs always ready. 1865. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 69 GENEVA. HOTEL D E S BERGUE8. The Hotel has a splendid and uninterrupted view of THE LAKE, MONT BLANC, AND THE ALPS. MESSRS. WACHTER AND ADRION, Grateful for the patronage they have enjoyed for the last four years from all classes of tra¬ vellers, beg to inform their friends that the experience gained in that time has enabled them to improve the accommodation and arrangement of their hotel in such a numne r that few similar establishments can compete with it in comfort. The cellar is unrivalled for the quality of the wines and the moderation of the prices. The kitchen department, placed under the care of one of the most celebrated cooks from Paris, is not surpassed in Europe, while the charges for table-d'hdte and dinners h la carte are fixed at the lowest scale com¬ patible with the excellence and variety of the viands supplied and the elegance of the service. The principal object Messrs. Wachter and Adrton desire to attain, under their constant personal superintendence, is to render the HOTEL DEB BERGUES, by the comfort it affords, both to families and single travellers, one of the best on the Continent. The Omnibus of the Hotel is in waiting at the Railway Station at the arrival of all the trains, and the Commissioner of the Hotel is at the same time in attendance to take charge of the baggage of travellers. Comfortable Bath Establishment in the Hotel. Geneva, May , 1865. THUN (Switzerland). HOTEL DETELLEVUE. T'HIS old and celebrated Establishment is situated in the midst of a magnificent Park, surrounded by most picturesque glaciers and mountains, at the foot of which extends the beautiful lake of Thoune. The Park contains the English Chapel, as well as Reading and Billiard Rooms, and the Exhibition of the objects of Swiss Sculpture and Art from the Studio of Mr. Wald ; so that families who desire to make a lengthened stay at Bellevue will find there every comfort belonging to a first-class establishment. Director, Mr. WALD, Successor to Mr. Knechtenhbfer. LUXEMBOURG. HOTEL dFcOLOGNE. Proprietor, Mr. WURTH FENDIUS. rpHIS Hotel centre of the is of the first class, and is situated in the town. The ACCOMMODATION is both COMMODIOUS and COM¬ FORTABLE, and the prices on the most moderate scale. Excellent Cuisine and fine Wines. Private Carriages belonging to the Hotel. An Omnibus of the Hotel at the Station for the arrival of all Trains. 70 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, SCIENCE AND ART DEPARTMENT OF THE Cummitte of (Counxil oh (SbimtlbiT, SOUTH KENSINGTON, -+ 0 +- rpHE Lords of the Committee of Council on Edu¬ cation Dave passed the following Minute on this subject, and invite the attention of travellers and tourists to it. The object which the Department has in view would be much aided, if such travellers would have the kindness to send notes of any remarkable objects which may not be described in * Murray’s Handbookthe notes being made out in the following form, and sent in a letter addressed to the ‘ Secre¬ tary, South Kensington Museum, London, W.letters so officially addressed may be sent unpaid; and printed forms will be supplied, if written for.— Form —1. Subject; 2. Lo¬ cality ; 3. Site ; 4. Description; 5. Date; 6. Condition; 7. Dimensions; 8. Reference to any fuller account published or otherwise. At South Kensington , the first day of December , 1864. By the Right Honourable the Lords of Her Majesty’s Most Honourable Privy Council on Education.’ Reproduction of Examples of Architectural Decoration. I. My Lords take into consideration what additional examples of Archi¬ tectural Decoration, as well of British as of Foreign origin, it is desirable should be obtained to complete the collections in the South Kensington Museum, and with this view they desire to have the advantage of the advice and suggestions of the Institute of British Architects, the Archi¬ tectural Museum, and the architectural profession generally. 1865. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 71 SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM — continued. II. The objects of Decorative Art especially referred to are:— a. Ornamental Sculpture in Marble, Stone, or Wood. b. Wall Decorations in Painting, Mosaic, &c. c. Hammered and Chased Metal-work. d. Ornamental Pavements in Mosaic, Encaustic Tiles, &c. e. Examples of Stained Glass. III. It is desirable that the objects should bo the finest specimens of their class, complete in themselves, and not too large for exhibition; and, by way of illustration, it may be stated that casts have been obtained of Archbishop Grey’s Tomb from York Cathedral, the Priors’ Gateway in the Cloisters of Norwich Cathedral, the Singing Gallery in Exeter Cathedral, the Pulpit of Giovanni Pisano from the Baptistery at Pisa, the Ghiberti Bronze Gates at Florence, and the like. IV. The finest typical works in Stained Glass and Mosaics might possibly be reproduced in materials like the original, and the same observation applies to Hammered Iron-work. Other reproductions may be obtained by means of Casting, Electrotyping, and large copies by Painting and otherwise. V. In respect to objects of Northern Mediaeval and Kenaissanco Art, in which the varieties of style are very numerous, it would be desirable to form in the first instance a list of a few of the finest examples which illustrate each epoch of the Art and each class of Art. And in the formation of such a list, the experience of the different Architectural Societies and Architects would be of the highest utility. VI. Besides making a collection of such reproductions as proposed, to be exhibited in the Museum, My Lords will cause to be compiled general Art Inventories, briefly naming the most remarkable objects which are known to exist, and showing the locality and site where they may be seen and studied. Photographs may be added occasionally to illustrate these inven¬ tories. VII. These inventories will be kept in type to admit of revisions and additions, and only a few copies will be printed from time to time. Copies will be sent to the Architectural Societies, and to any Architects who may apply, and be willing to contribute notices in aid of their completion. By order of the Lords of the Committee of Council on Education. HENRY COLE, Secretary. 72 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 1865. THE ORIGINAL PASSPORT AGENCY. LEE’S POLYGLOT WASHING BOOXS, (To save the trouble of translating Washing Bills). For Ladies or Gentlemen. IN English