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Post 8vo. 6s. *** The above are small volumes, convenient for hand or pocket. May, 1900. » >5 •-v HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS HAMPSHIRE. FILE COPY Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2019 with funding from University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill https://archive.org/details/handbookfortraveOOking A HANDBOOK FOB TRAVELLERS HAMPSHIRE. FIFTH EDITION. WITH MAPS AND PLANS, LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET, 1808. LONDON : PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS. P R E F A C E. The Handbook for Hampshire, formerly combined with those for Surrey and the Isle of Wight, is now for the first time published in a separate volume. Scope has thus been given for the much more complete treatment which so interesting a county fully deserves. The book has been thoroughly revised, extended, and in part re-written, and every old parish has now at least been touched upon, and it is hoped that no place of any interest will have been found passed over. Special attention is called to the numerous new and care¬ fully made maps which illustrate the book. I must here record my special obligations to the Rev. G. N, Godwin, late Vicar of Woodmancote with Popham, author of ‘The Story of Basing House,’and other local antiquarian works, who has personally visited every church and earthwork in the county, many of them expressly for the purpose of making this new edition as complete as possible. I would also express my thanks to those distinguished antiquaries, the Very Rev. Dean Kitchin, and W. II. St. John Hope, Esq., Assistant Secretary of the Society of Antiquaries of London, for having most kindly revised the proof sheets of Win¬ chester and Silchester respectively, and to General Nichol¬ son, R.A., who has kindly made some corrections in and additions to the account of the Portsmouth defences. The section on the Southampton and Isle of Wight Waters, which follows the Introduction, has been contributed by an ex¬ perienced yachtsman. G. E. Jeans. Shorwell Vicarage , Isle of Wight. PRINCIPAL ABBREVIATIONS, Ac., USED. ante — referred to earlier in the xame route. A.-S. = Anglo-Saxon. h. = (born) date of birth. cent., centy. = century. c. = (circa') about. Ch. = Church. ch.-yd. = churchyard. d. = (died) date of death. Dec. — later Decorated style. E. E. = Early English style. Geom. Dec. = Geometrical (earlier) Decorated style. 11. Bk. = Handbook. l. = left hand. m. = mile, miles. min. = minute. Norm. = Norman (earlier) style. Perp. = Perpendicular style. pod = referred to later in the same route. rt. — right hand. Rte. = Route. Ely. = Railway. temp. = (tempore) in the time of. Trans.-Norm. = Trans, (or later) Norman style. An asterisk (*) attached to a place signifies that it is of special interest; to a hotel, &c., that it is specially worthy of recommendation. MAPS AND PLANS. Plan of Portsmouth . . . . Map of Portsmouth and Southampton . ,, Aldershot (in 2 parts) Plan of Winchester . . . . ,, Southampton. . . . ,, Silchester Map of the New Forest to face page 5 y ? ? 99 j 16 32 44 96 112 126 176 ft % fc v! \ HANDBOOK FOR HAMPSHIRE. INTRODUCTION. PAGE Extent and History .. [7] Antiquities .. .. [10] Products and Manufactures [12] PAGE Geology and Traveller’s View .. .. .. [13] The Southampton and Isle of Wight Waters [15] Extent and History. Hampshire, the eighth English county in respect of size, comprises, including the Isle of Wight, an area of 1,037,764 statute acres, or about 1,650 square miles, and had at the census of 1891 a population of 690,097 ; 78,672 of whom were in the Isle of Wight. This is a very large increase, no less than 97,000, on the census of 1881, the increase being chiefly in the three large towns, Portsmouth, Southampton, and Bournemouth. Its surface is much varied. By far the greater part consists of an immense mass of chalk, extending into Wiltshire and Berkshire, and sending off eastward two long chains of hills, which traverse Surrey and Sussex respectively, and are known as the North and South Downs. At the N.W. corner of the county the chalk rises into lofty and very picturesque heights of about 800 ft., from which noble views are commanded. It is everywhere intersected by valleys and deep hollows, through which numerous streams find their way into the sea. The northern portion of Hampshire forms a part of the “basin of London,” and was anciently covered with forest. So too was nearly the whole of the southern district, in which are included the Forest of Bere, Waltham Chase, and the New Forest. The great wood of Anderida, which stretched across the Wealds of Kent and Sussex, extended beyond the Hampshire border, and seems to have terminated about East Meon. It there met a country of open downs, known in the British period as the “Gwent” or Champaign [8] Introduction.—Extent and History. (see History , Winchester, Rte. 6). This, together with portions of the woodland on either side of it, was the district first occupied by the Belgrn, who landed from the opposite shores of Gaul, and being more civilised than the Celtic tribes they encountered, gradually drove them out, and made themselves masters of the whole of Hampshire, Wilt¬ shire, and Somersetshire. This was only accomplished, however, by degrees; and the “Belgic ditches,” as they are called—lines of ancient fortification, with a fosse on the northern side—are supposed to mark the varying boundary of the conquerors. It has also been suggested that the great intrenchments in the N.E. part of Hampshire (see Bury Hill and Quarley Mount, Rte. 8) may have played no unimportant part in the long contest between invaders and invaded. The Belgje brought with them a knowledge of agriculture, and the district they occupied became one of the most productive in Britain. Their chief town was Venta Belgarum—the modern Winchester—well suited from its position, and from its neighbourhood to the sea, to form a centre of commerce, and of communication with the allied tribes on the continent. It continued to be the capital of the province after the conquest of the Belga3 by the Romans under Vespasian, when its importance considerably increased. Lines of Roman road connected it with Sorbiodunum (Salisbury), Calleva Attrebatum (Silchester), Clausentum (Bittern, near Southampton), and Portus Magnus (Port- chester). The city itself was richly adorned with public buildings. The first settlement of the West Saxons—the race which was eventually to become the most powerful in the island, and whose chiefs were afterwards the true “ Bretwaldas ”—monarchs of all England—took place, according to the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle, in 495, when “two aldermen came into Britain, Cerdic and Cynric his son, with five ships, at the place which is called Cerdic’s-Ora, and the same day they fought with the Weals” (Brito-Romans). Cerdic’s-Ora was most probably at the head of the Hamble Creek, a long arm of the Southampton Water which runs inland as high as Botley (Rte. 4), but is placed by some at Calshot (Southampton Water, Rte. 6). The Jutish leaders, Stuf and Wihtgar, are said to have landed at the same place in 514; and whether the statements of the Chronicle be accepted as authentic or not, the Hamble Creek, which is the natural inlet of the country, must, no doubt, have received some of the earliest Saxon arrivals. Winchester speedily fell into their hands, and in the year 508, according to the A.-S. Chronicle, the British Prince Natanleod, “ and 5000 men with him,” were killed in battle with the Saxons. Natanleod is either a proper name, or more probably a .title signifying “ the Prince of Nate”; and it has been suggested that the person thus designated was Aurelius Ambrosius, the “last of the Romans,” “who seems to have upheld the cause of civilisation in the West of Europe with more success, and for a longer period than any other individual that appeared after the death of Aetius” (see Dr. Guest's paper on the “ Early English Settlements in South Britain”—‘ Proceedings of the Archaeological Institute,’ Salisbury volume). The site of the battle in Introduction.—Extent and History. [9] which Natanleod fell is unknown, but it must have been either on the western border of Hampshire or close beyond it. The subjugation of the country was completed in 519, when “Cerdic and Cynric fought with the Britons at Cerdicsford” (probably Charford,. Rte. 15); “ and sithen from that day have reigned the kingly family of the AVest-Sexe.”— A.-S. Citron. From this time Winchester became “the proper constitutional capital” of the kingdom of AA 7 essex. Birinus, the first preacher of Christianity throughout Western England, was received here in 635, when he converted the King Kynegils and all his people (see AVinchester, Bite. 6, for further details of its history during the Saxon period). The present name of the county, “ Hamtunscyre,” first occurs in the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle, 755, when Sigebert, King of Wessex, is said to have lost all his dominions with this exception. The name is derived by some from that of the Ann or Anton river, but it is far more probably a combination of the two ordinary elements in A.-S. local names, “ Ham,” a dwelling, and “ tun,” an inclosure—the town giving its name to the shire. Hamptun in the A.-S. Chron. stands both for Northampton and Southampton. (Hampshire is legally known as “the county of Southampton,” but only from the time of Henry A 7 III.) Ancient traditions, both of the British anti Saxon races, clustered about this part of AVessex and its capital; and AA 7 in- chester continued to be the chief place at which “ the King wore his crown ” until the reiun of Edward the Confessor. The entire county was frequently harried by the Northmen. Southampton and AVin- chester were more than once plundered; and at Basing, rEthelred and his brother Alfred the Great were defeated by them in 870. The importance of AVinchester, and the deep forests which covered so much of the county, and offered such admirable pastime to the Norman “ lords of the deer,” caused Hampshire and its capital to retain no small portion of the royal favour even after the Conquest. (The story of the New Forest will be found at length in Bite. 14.) The many small Norman churches scattered throughout the county indicate the wealth and the care of its new lords. The cathedral at AVinchester was rebuilt by its Norman bishop, AValkelin, a cousin of the Conqueror; and Winchester Castle continued to be one of the great royal residences, as in the days of the Saxons. The fair on St. Giles’s Hill, which had not impossibly been held on the same spot even from the Belgic period, kept up, for several centuries, the reputation and importance of the county; but Winchester itself never regained its- ancient prosperity after the sack of the city by the younger De Montfort in 1265. The seaports of Southampton and Bortsmouth, from both of which great military expeditions frequently set out during the reigns of the Edwards and Henrys, contributed their full share to the reputation of Hampshire ; and the special naval importance which Bortsmouth began to assume in the reign of Henry A 7 1II., and which has ever since been steadily increasing, has enabled it to maintain its place throughout in the first rank of English counties. Do] Introduction. — Antiquities. The coasts of Hampshire, like those of Sussex, were frequently attacked by the French ; and the Isle of Wight was more than once plundered by them. During the Civil War the most remarkable event which occurred within the borders of the county was the siege of Basing House (Rte. 6). Charles I. was imprisoned for a short time at Hurst Castle (Rte. 14) after his removal from Carisbrook Castle in the Isle of Wight. Antiquities. The great intrenchments on the N.W. borders of Hampshire, which are probably of the British period, have already been mentioned. The most important are Beacon Hill and Ladle Hill (Rte. 9), Bury Hill and Quarlev Mount (Rte. 8), and Danebury and Worldbury Mount (Rte. 10), as also Old Winchester Hill (Rte. 3)—if this latter be not ■rather Roman. In Homan remains Hampshire is unusually rich. The country was rendered accessible by numerous roads; villas seem to have been scattered over it in all directions ; and it contained at least two large •towns and several important stations. At Silchester (Rte. 7) are the venerable relics of Calleva Attrehatum , the ancient capital of the Segontiaci, the most complete in England; and at Portehester (Rte. 4) the Roman walls of Portus Magnus , the predecessor of Portsmouth, still inclose the mediaeval castle which was built within them. Venta Belgarum, lies buried under the modern Winchester, but at Bittern, ■near Southampton (Rte. 12), walls and other relics of Clausentum are to be traced. A station no doubt existed at Broughton ('Rte. 10); and Egbury Hill, near Whitchurch (Rte. 8), is considered by some authorities the site of the ancient town of Vindomis. In Ecclesiastical architecture the county is of high importance, owing to the possession of one church quite of the first rank in its ■Cathedral, and three others of very great beauty and interest, the two great monastic churches of Christchurch and Romsey, and the Hospital Church of St. Cross. But it must be admitted that the gap after these is singularly wide. The average of the parish churches is decidedly low, nor do they even possess any special local feature, except perhaps the frequency of wooden belfries. Of the Churches , and their adjuncts, the following will best repay attention :— Pre-Norman (all valuable). ROUTE 6. Chilconib. 13. *Christchurch, nave and transept. 10. Clatford, Upper (very curious). 3. Droxford. 3. East Meon. 12. IIamble. ROUTE 4. Boarhunt. 15. Bream ore. 3. Corhampton. G. Headbourne Worthy. Norman, a.d. 1066-1135. 5. Bishop’s Sutton. 14. Brockenhurst. 9. Kingsclere. © 6. Nately Scures. 4. *Portchester. 11. *Piomsey, choir and transepts. Introduction.- KOUTE 5. Tichborne. 6. * Winchester Cathedral, transepts and crypt. Late or Transition Norman, a.d. 1135-1189. 5. Alton. 5. Binsted. 6. Easton. 1. Portsmouth, St. Thomas (chancel). 11. *Romsey (nave). 6. Southampton, God’s House. 6. *St. Cross. Also the four remarkable fonts in Winchester Cathedral, St. Mary Bourne (Rte. 8), East M eon (Rte. 3), and St. Michael’s, Southampton (Rte. 6). Early English, a.d. 1189-1272. 9. Barton Stacey. 14. Beaulieu (formerly Refectory of Abbey); *pulpit. 5. Cheriton. 5. Crondall. 8. Grately. Antiquities . [11] ROUTE 3. Hambledon. 2. Hayling, North and South. 13. Milford. 1. Portsmouth, Garrison Chapel. 8. Thruxton. 6. ^Winchester Cathedral, eastern part. Decorated, a.d. 1272-1377. 8. Amport. 15. Fordiugbridge. 3. Meon Stoke. 6. Winchester Cathedral (choir- stalls, &c.). Perpendicular, a.d. 1377-1547. 6. Basing. 6. Basingstoke Ch., and Holy Ghost Chapel (late). 13. ^Christchurch (choir). 5. Selborne. 3. Soberton (tower ; late). 6. Southampton, St. Michael. 4. Titchfield (and monuments). 2. Warblington. G. * Winchester Cathedral (nave). 6. ^Winchester College. Of Monastic Houses , the chief remains are those of Netley (Rte. 12) and Beaulieu (Rte. 14), both E. E. and of great interest; their sites, too, are very beautiful. The Brasses are not very important. The most interesting are at Crondall (Rte. 5); Eversley (Rte. 3); Headbourne Worthy (Rte. 6) ; Ringwood (Rte. 15); St. Cross (Rte. 6); Stoke Charity (Rte. 9) ; Thruxton (Rte. 8); and Weeke (Rte. 6). There are several at Alton (Rte. 5) ; Basingstoke (Rte. 6); and Sherborne St. John (Rte. 6). Of Stained Glass there are few remains, except in some windows of Winchester Cathedral, especially the great W. window. At Grateley (Rte. 8) are some savings from the wreck of Salisbury by Wyatt. At Mottisfont (Rte. 10) there is a fine window from the Holy Ghost Chapel at Basingstoke, and at Deane (Rte. 7) a Flemish window. The windows in Winchester College Chapel are very remarkable copies of old designs. The Military remains are but few : Portcliester (Rte. 4) is Norm., within a Roman enceinte, and Wolvescy Castle, Winchester (Rte. 6), has some Norman remains. Parts of Odiham Castle (Rte. 3) are Edwardian. Hurst Castle (Rte. 14), built by Henry VIII., has been almost entirely reconstructed. In Domestic architecture may be noticed, Norman houses at South- [12] Introduction.—Products and Manufactures. ampton (Rte. 6), a late Norm, house at Christchurch (Rte. 13), aocl another, called King John’s, at Warn ford (Rte 3); the hall of Win¬ chester Palace, temp. Henry III. (Rte. 6) ; the ruined hall of the episcopal palace, Bishop’s Waltham (Rte. 4) ; Place House, Titchfield (Rte. 4), and the Yine (Rte. 6), both temp. Henry VIII., and Bramshill, temp. James I. (Rte. 3). Products and Manufactures. “ Ilantshire,” says Fuller, “ is a happy countrey in the foure ele¬ ments, if culinary fire in courtesie may pass for one, with plenty of the best wood for the fuel thereof; most pure and piercing the aire of this shyre ; and none in England hath more plenty of cl< ar and fresh rivulets of troutful water, not to speak of the friendly sea, conveniently distanced from London. As for the earth , it is both fair and Iruitful and may pass for an expedient betwixt pleasure and profit, where by mutual consent they are moderately accommodated.” This description is, no doubt, sufficiently accurate; and, although Hampshire has always maintained a considerable rank as an agricultural county, “ profit” is upon the whole but “ moderately accommodated” within its boundaries. “ In traversing the whole county it will be observed that the poorer soils predominate. There are a few fertile spots, and some very valuable water-meadows along the principal rivers, especially the Avon, which runs through the western part of the county, bordering on Dorsetshire. Where a farm has a portion of water- meadow and a run for sheep on the downs, the occupier generally thrives; but the greatest agricultural skill is displayed in the cultivation of the poorer soils, where manure must be made on the spot, and the cattle and sheep kept on the produce of the arable land.” Most of the modern improvements have been introduced into Hampshire, and there are extensive model farms in different parts of the county. The great forests of Hampshire formerly supplied much wood for the purposes of the navy; but the New Forest (the only one remaining) is not now drawn upon to any great extent. The special products of the county are three:—bacon, the New Forest pony, and honey. For notices of two of these see also Rte. 14. “Charles 1.,” says Gilpin, “ I have heard, was at the expense of procuring the wild boar and his mate from the forests of Germany, which once certainly inhabited the forests of England. I have heard too that they propagated greatly in New Forest. Certain it is there is found in it at this day a breed of hogs, commonly called ‘ forest pigs,’ which are very different from the usual Hampshire breed, and have about them several of the characteristic marks of the wild boar.”— Forest Scenery , ii. It is also said, however, perhaps with more probability, that the peculiarities of the forest pigs (the wild pigs, if they ever existed, have long ceased) only result from their being allowed greater liberty and a more unrestricted range. The excellence of the bacon is owing, besides the beechmast Introduction.—Geology and, Traveller s View. [13] on which the swine are fed, to the care with which it is cured. It is not now the custom to smoke it so much as formerly : hut those who can appreciate the flavour conferred by a due “ exhibition ” of peat- smoke, will take care that their flitches are prepared after the ancient and orthodox fashion. The New Forest pony no doubt belongs to the aboriginal race of Northern Europe; and nothing need here be added to what is said in Rte. 14. The honey of the county has long been celebrated. “ It hath,” says Fuller, “ the worst and best honey in England ; worst, on the heath, hardly worth five pound the barrel; best, in the champain, where the same quantity will well nigh be sold for twice as much. And it is generally observed, the finer the wheat and wool, both which are very good in this county, the purer the honey of that place. . . .We may observe three decrees, or kindes rather, of honey. 1. Virgin honey, which is the purest, of a late swarm which never bred bees. 2. Chaste honey—for so I may term all the rest which is not sophisti¬ cated with any addition. 3. Harlot honey—as which is adulterated with meal and other trash mingled therewith. Of the first and second sort I understand the counsel of Solomon, ‘ My sonne, eat honey, for it is good ’ (Prov. xxiv. 13)—good absolutely in the substance ; though there may be excess in the quantity thereof.” The county is almost purely agricultural; and no manufactures of any importance are carried on in it. The great naval Dockyard at Ports¬ mouth, with its Victualling Office at Gosport, and the busy Docks at Southampton, are the only establishments which require to be men¬ tioned in this place. Geology and Traveller’s View. The great mass of chalk which covers nearly the whole of Wiltshire and Dorsetshire, and extends eastward into Berkshire and Hampshire, is bounded, in the latter county, on the N. “ by a line drawn from Inkpen Beacon, just outside the county (954 ft. above the sea—the highest point in all the chalk formation of England), by Kingsclere and Basingstoke, to Odiham; on tlieE. by a line drawn from Odiham, by Alton, and along the Farnham road, to the neighbourhood of Bishop’s Waltham ; and on the S. by a line drawn from the neigh¬ bourhood of Bishop’s Waltham and N. of Bishopstoke into Wiltshire. The extent of this chalk district, from N. to S., is about 20 or 22 m.; from E. to W. its Hampshire extent varies from 22 to 32 m.; but its whole extent through Hampshire and Wiltshire together is much greater.” The whole district presents the rounded summits and sweeping valleys characteristic of the chalk; and the usual chalk fossils are found. To the geologist perhaps the most interesting portion is that in the neighbourhood of Kingscleie (Rte. 9), where a miniature “valley of the Weald” may be studied. “The upper and lower chalk and the upper greensand dip in opposite directions from [14] Introduction.—Geology and Traveller s View. ail anticlinal axis which passes through the middle of the valley. . . . On each side of the valley we find escarpments of chalk, the strata of which dip in opposite directions, in the northern escarpment to the N. and in the southern to the S. At the eastern and western extremities of the valley the two escarpments become confluent, precisely in the same manner as do those of the North and South Downs, at the eastern end of the Weald district, near Petersfield. And as, a few miles E. of the town last mentioned, the firestone, or upper greensand, is laid open in the sharp angle between the escarp¬ ment of the Alton hills and the western termination of the South Downs; so in the valley of Kingsclere the same formation is seen to crop out from beneath the chalk.”— Lyell. The same causes which seem to have produced the elevation and denudation of the Weald were no doubt in operation here also. The tourist will find the most picturesque district of the chalk in the NW. corner of Hampshire (Rte. 8), where the hills are lofty and command very striking views. The central part of the county, the ancient “ Gwent,” or champaign, is nearly level, and offers very little of interest. There is a more attractive corner in the neighbourhood of Alton; and the views from Butser Hill (Rte. 1), and Portsdown Hill (Rte. 1; the last an outlier of the main mass of chalk), are very grand. The greater part of the tertiary formations which extend N. of the chalk, and constitute a portion of the so-called “basin of London,” here consist of the plastic clay. The scenery is occasionally very pleasant; but the best points in this district are beyond the Hampshire borders, in Berkshire and Surrey. South of the chalk extends the “basin of Hampshire,” a tract of tertiary formations, resembling in all its characteristics the London basin on the N. (see Introd. to Surrey). The cliffs which encircle Christchurch Bay (Rtes. 13, 14) abound in fossils, consisting of teeth of several species of sharks and rays, bones of turtles, and a great variety of shells. The New Forest (Rte. 14), from the Boldre Water to the Southampton Water, is covered with a sand closely resembling that known in the London Basin as the Bagshot sand. The rest ot the New Forest, the banks of the Southampton Water, and the line of coast as far as Hayling Island, consist of London clay ; the plastic clay occurs along the banks of the Avon, on the western border. It is in the New Forest that by far the most interesting scenery will be found. The tourist in search of the picturesque should by no means neglect this very striking corner of England, though unfortu¬ nately it is fast losing its ancient romantic character. Lyndhurst and Brockenhurst are its chief centres. The principal Views throughout the county—for all of which the tourist should look out—are from Butser Hill (Rte. 1), the hills about Selborne (Rte. 5), Hawkley Hanger (Rte. 3), Beacon Hill (Rte. 9), Portsdown Hill (Rte. 4), St. Catharine’s Hill, Winchester (Rte. 6), the Introduction.—Southampton and Isle of Wight Waters. [15] hills at Highclere (Rte. 9), Quarley Mount (Rte. 8), the New Forest (Rte. 14), and St. Catharine’s Hi] I, near Christchurch (Rte. 13). The principal Art collections are at (Rte. 8) Hurstborne Park (Lord Portsmouth), and (Rte. 15) Somerley (Lord Normanton). Bournemouth (Rte. 13), with its combination of sea and pine-woods, is one of the most beautiful and striking health-resorts to be found anywhere. Southsea (Rte. 1) is a crowded and popular bathing-place, which has some advantages in its close neighbourhood to Portsmouth, and its easy access to the Isle of AVight. The smaller bathing-places have not many attractions ; Hayling Island (Rte. 2) is perhaps the best of them. No visitor to the county is likely to omit a visit to Win¬ chester (Rte. 6), one of the most historical cities in the kingdom. Southampton (Rte. b) is also a town of great historical interest. The interest of Portsmouth (Rte. 1) is mostly of much more recent date. Silchester (Rte. 7) is most easily visited from either Basingstoke or Reading. The Southampton and Isle of AATght AVaters. There is no doubt that one of the chief attractions for visitors to Southampton is the noble sheet of water at the head of which it is situated, affording as it does even to the landsman a lovely series of views, thoroughly characteristic of our island kingdom. Including the Southampton AVater, the form on the map of this landlocked sea is that of an inverted Y; the left arm of which, when inverted, is known as the Solent, and is some 15 m. long from the Needles (the extreme westerly point of the Island) to Calshot lightship at the mouth of Southampton AA T ater. The width of this portion averages about 2f m., the water having a depth of from 8 to 10 fathoms and being on the Island side steep to, while on the Hampshire side large mud flats are uncovered at low water. The right hand arm of the inverted Y is generally known as Spithead, though strictly speaking Spithead is the area lying between Portsmouth Spit and the Ryde Sand. This arm is rather wider than the other, and though somewhat deeper, is in places obstructed by long narrow sandbanks which have as little as 2 fathoms of water upon them at low water spring tides. The “ Brambles ” is a nasty patch lying at the mouth of Southampton Water with scarcely 3 feet of water upon it at low water spring tides. “ Ryde Middle” Sand extends for about 2y m. in a line parallel to the shores and about half-way between them, from Old Castle Point, just to the east of Cowes, splitting the Channel in an E. and W. direction. Extending from Osborne to beyond Ryde, the “ Mother Bank ” lies parallel to the shore about a mile distant from it; while just to the eastward of Ryde, the “ Ryde Sand” dries out at low water to a distance of fully a mile from the island shore. In the shallow water at the extremity stands the circular armour-plated tower known as “No Man Fort,” one of the chief defences of these waters. Except on these banks, however, the average depth of water [16] Introduction.—Southampton and Isle of Wight Waters. everywhere is from 9 to 12 fathoms, giving to our largest men-of-war plenty of room for movement, while the leviathan Atlantic liners steam at speed through the fine open roadway. The spring tides in these confined waters run with great rapidity, ranging from 2f knots an hour off Cowes to as much as 5 knots in the narrows between Hurst •Castle and the Island. A most curious feature may be noticed also in the double High AVater in the Southampton AVater, which arises from the fact that the last of the flood running up the English Channel, sweeps round the east end of the Isle of AA r ight into Spithead, and there meeting the water already ebbing out of Southampton Water, drives it back, and banks it up in the form of a second high tide. It will be readily understood that so fine a sheet of protected water has always been greatly used by a seafaring people. Spithead has always been the assembling place of England’s great fleets. It was here that Nelson’s wooden walls lay at anchor; from here the last of England’s wooden ships under Napier defiled before the Queen on their way to the Baltic during the Crimean War. Of late years these waters have been the scene of the magnificent displays of England’s battle¬ ships, which stretched at the Jubilee Naval Review (1897) in five long- lines from No Man Fort as far as the East Bramble buoy. It is doubtful, however, whether, in time of war, ships will ever be able to lie in these open roadsteads again, owing to the danger they would be exposed to from the attacks of torpedo boats at night, which, if not endangering the ships, would so harass the crews that all rest would be impossible; booms have in consequence been made of spars studded with spikes interwoven with steel hawsers, which in war time will be stretched across the entrances to Southampton Water and Portsmouth Harbour, behind which our men-of-war will lie, thus effectually closing these retreats to the enemy’s torpedo boats. In the summer time, these waters afford the best and most popular centres for the yachting of England. The Royal Yacht Squadron at Cowes, the Royal Victoria Yacht Club at Ryde, the Royal Southern at Southampton, the Royal Albert at Sonthsea, the Royal London at Cowes, the Castle Club at Calshot, and the Portsmouth Corinthian, all have their headquarters here, and cover the water with their white sails. During the “Cowes week,” early in August, a concentration takes place of yachts from all round the coast. Every type is repre¬ sented, from the magnificent 1500-ton steam-yachts, veritable palaces, to the tiny “ eighteen footers.” Cruising yachts of all kinds and sizes lie in the roads, while the daily competitions give the finest fleet of racers in the world an opportunity of spreading their euorrnous wings. No more interesting and beautiful sight can be witnessed than a start of these magnificent racers with their clouds of snowy canvas on a sunny morning, as, heeling to the breeze with foam flying from their bows, they twist and turn, each jealously manoeuvring for the best position, until the boom of the last gun sends them on their course. Yachtsmen will find Ryde rather an exposed anchorage for anything under a 20-tonner to lie snugly at for any length of time; stores and Introduction.—Southampton and Isle of Wight Waters. [17] provisions are also most expensive here. Cowes Creek is more comfortable for a small boat, though much crowded at regatta time; stores are notoriously high-priced here too. Cowes roads are rather exposed for small craft and the tide sluices through them, so that a shift is often necessary if the wind hauls round to the N.E. or N.W. By far the most comfortable berth for a longer stay is Southampton. Here there is good shelter and plenty of room, and the wise moderation of the Southampton tradesmen is tempting more yachtsmen every year to make this their headquarters from which to cruise daily in the beautiful waters which separate the Island from the mainland. Small boats for day sailing, and watermen’s boats, may be hired at Southampton or Ryde, from which Portsmouth Harbour may be conveniently visited; oilskins should, however, be taken, as a weather¬ going tide will rapidly knock up a short steep sea at Spithead, where a few hours before it was quite smooth. Bembridge, owing to its being- cheaper, has also of late become very popular as the home for small boat sailing, and the “ Redwing ” one design class here have their headquarters. Southampton and Cowes are perhaps the best starting-points for day excursions; the Southampton water or the picturesque Hamble river opening out of it affords delightful excursions, while if the tides be properly worked, the winding Beaulieu river running up into the New Forest, which is only equalled by the Devonshire Dart in its * exquisite beauty, can be made the goal of a most pleasant summer day’s sail. "Boats of all kinds will be found for hire at Southampton and Cowes, and—except during the regatta time, the charges for them may be considered fairly moderate. [Hants.'] b . I" «, • •; « HANDBOOK FOR HAMPSHIRE. ROUTES. *** The names of places are printed in black only in those Routes where the places are described. ROUTE PAGE 1. London to Portsmouth, by Guildford, Petersfield, and Havant . 2 2. London to Portsmouth, by Chichester, Emsworth, and Havant [Hayling Island] 22 3. London to Portsmouth, by Alton and Fareham (road) 24 4. London to Gosport and Portsmouth, by Botley [Bishop’s Waltham], Fare- ham, and Portchester .. 34 5. London to Winchester, by Aldershot, Alton, and Alresford. 44 6. London to Southampton, by Basingstoke and Win¬ chester . 59 7. Basingstoke to Reading [Stratfield Saye, Silchester] 122 ROUTE PAGE 8. Basingstoke to Salisbury, by Whitchurch and Andover 131 9. Didcot to Winchester [Highclere, Burghclere] .. 141 10. Andover to Southampton, by Stockbridge and Rom- sey .147 11. Eastleigh to Salisbury, by Romsey .153 12. Southampton to Fareham, by Netley .158 13. London to Bournemouth, by Southampton, Brocken- hurst, and Christchurch .. 164 14. The New Forest; Lyndhurst, Brockenhurst, Lymington 179 15. Bournemouth to Salisbury, by Ringwood [or Wim- borne] and Fordingbridge 196 [Hants.'] B 2 Ttoute 1 .— Liphook. Bramshott Ch., 1 m. N.W., was in great measure rebuilt in 1872. It is cruciform, originally E. E., with ROUTE 1. LONDON (WATERLOO STAT.) TO PORTSMOUTH, BY GUILDFORD, PETERSFIELD, AND HAVANT. (L. AND S. W. ELY.) The Direct Portsmouth line, which, running from London via Guildford, joins the Brighton and S. Coast line at Havant, is about ten miles shorter than the Mid-Sussex line of the Brighton Company (Rte. 2), but, owing to the steep gradients, the gain in time is slight. Both lines, however, pass through varied and picturesque districts with many ob¬ jects of interest ; and as return tickets to Portsmouth and the Isle of Wight by either route are available for returning by the other line , variety can be given to the journey. Fqr the railway by Guildford as far as Haslemere, see H.Bk. to Surrey. Several of the stations on this line afford agreeable centres for exploring the country round, at which the tourist w T ill do well to halt on his journey, as at Liphook, Liss, Petersfield, and Howland’s Castle. The line skirts the Sussex border, and even the deep cuttings are picturesque, from the bright colours of the strata",'and the abun¬ dant foliage that clothes them. The first Stat. in Hants is ‘ "• • hr • • 47 m. (from Waterloo), Liphook. The village (a large hamlet of Bramshott) was’formerly well known to travellers to Portsmouth for its excellent Inn (the Anchor'), which was often used as a halting-place for the night. Pepys found “ good honest people” here in 1668. Wilkes used to “lie at Liphook” on his journeys to and from San- down. The Allied Sovereigns once dined here, and the Queen, when Princess Victoria, has visited it. low tower and spire. Headley Ch., 44 m. from Liphook, was rebuilt, except the tower, in 1859. Headley Park is the residence of Sir R. S. Wright, Judge of the Queen’s Bench. Prof. Jowett, the Master of Balliol College, Oxford, died here, 1893. Liphook is a good point from which to visit the ancient Forest of Wolmer, one of those tracts of which Gilbert White has discoursed so de¬ lightfully in his ‘Natural History of Selborne,’ or it may be taken, with Selborne, from Alton (Rte. 5). His minute Dutch word-painting, however, no longer applies to the condition of the forest, much of which has been converted from a waste of fern and heather, “ without a single tree,” to a region of com¬ parative cultivation, divided hy hedgerows and interspersed with numerous patches of plantation, but still allowing sufficient open space for the temporary encampment of a flying force from Aldershot every now and then. White’s book, how¬ ever, should here be in the hands of the tourist, who will be enabled by its means to trace the changes which have taken place during the last hundred years. Wolmer Forest, which has been in the hands of the Crown from a period before the Conquest, is about 7 m. in length by 24 in breadth, running nearly from N. to S. On the N. it nearly adjoins the forest of Alice Holt; S. it extends into Sussex at Rogate. It is “ somewhat diversified with hills and dales,” but of no great height or depth, and can scarcely be called picturesque. Bin’s Pond, on the N. verge of the forest, which White describes as “ affording such a safe and pleasing shelter to wild ducks, teals, and snipes, that they breed there,” has been drained, and cattle now graze Route 1 .— Liphooh. upon its bed. The “ three consider¬ able lakes” — Hogmere (probably “ high pond ”), Cranmere (“ crane’s pond,” so also on Dartmoor), and Wolmere (“hollow pond,” or “Ulf’s pond”?)—still remain within the limits, and are still “stored with carp, tench, eels, and perch.” Wolmer pond, from which the forest itself is most probably named, is about m. in circumference. Like Alice Holt (Rte. 5) and the Forest of Bere (post), Wolmer Forest was anciently included within the limits of the “ Andred’s-weald,” the great wood which covered much of Kent and Sussex, and extended for some distance into Hampshire. Although Wolmer itself was tree¬ less until very recently, trunks of large trees have been found in its morasses, indicating the ancient presence of wood. “ I have myself seen,” says White, ‘ ‘ cottages on the verge of this wild district, whose timbers consisted of a hard, black wood, looking like oak, which the owners assured me they procured from the bogs by probing the soil with spits or some such in¬ struments ; but the peat is so much cut out and the moors have been so well examined that none has been found of late.” These trees, however, may not have been standing during the his¬ toric period; and the Andred’s Forest must have included many open tracts of heath and fern within its borders, well fitted for the sup¬ port of wild animals, and resemb¬ ling the treeless wastes of Dartmoor or Ettrick. Wolmer was most probably in this condition even when the Plantagenets used to hunt here, and when Edward II. ordered 20s. to be given “ to Morris Ken, of the kitchen, because, when hunting in the forest, he rode before tho king, and often fell from his horse, at which the king laughed exceed¬ ingly.” Like other royal forests it had its wardens and verderers, and abounded in red deer, which, as White tells us, “although unre¬ strained by any fences more than a common hedge,” never wandered among the fallow deer of the Holt, nor were the latter in their turn ever seen within the limits of Wol¬ mer. (The soil of the two forests is completely different.) About 500 head of red deer remained in Wol¬ mer Forest at the beginning of the last centy., and were seen by Queen Anne when on her way to Ports¬ mouth. She left the main road at Liphook— “ And, reposing herself on a bank smoothed for that purpose [lying about 5 m. to the E. of Wolmer pond, and still called Queen’s Bank J, saw with great complacency and satis¬ faction the whole herd of red deer brought by the keepers along the vale before her, consisting then of about 500 head. A sight this worthy the attention of the greatest sovereign ! ” •— White. The herd was almost destroyed by the “ Waltham Blacks ” or deer- stealers (see Bishop's Waltham , Etc. 4), and the few that remained were removed to Windsor by the Duke of Cumberland about 1755. The forest has since been held (by numerous proprietors) on lease from the Crown. During the great drought of Aug. 18G4, an extensive fire took place in Wolmer Forest, which was only extinguished by the exertions of more than 1000 persons employed incessantly for three days and nights digging trenches, &c. Property to the amount of many thousands was destroyed. About 4 m. W. of Liphook is Wolmer Pond , in the bed of which a discovery of Roman coins was made in 1741. There had always, says White, been a tradition that “the bottom of the lake contained great stores of treasure ”; and, as it had become entirely dry during the b 2 4 Boute 1 .— Petersfield. summer, a search was made by “ all the labourers in the neighbourhood,” who found “great heaps of copper coins, the one lying on the other as if shot out of a bag, many of which were in good preservation.” There were many hundreds altogether; the greater number of those which White saw being of Marcus Aurelius and Faustina. They were probably from an army-chest. The line turns W. soon after leaving Liphook, which is its high¬ est point, and descends to 511 m., Liss Stat. (Us, Celtic, — fort). The village stands on a very pretty green. The old Ch. (St. Peter), mostly Dec., was re¬ stored in 1869. A new Ch. (St. Mary) was built (by Sir A. Blomfielcl ) in 1892. Liss Place (F. Coryton, Esq.) has some ancient features. Selborne (Rte. 5) is 5 m. N.W. At Greatham, 1| m. N., the Ch. is modern, but some ruins of the old Ch. remain near, and contain a Jacobean monument. Empshott, 4 m. from Liss, has a small but interesting Trans.-Norm. Ch., with old oak belfry, rood-screen, and early font. It is a pleasant walk S. to Bawhley Hanger (see Rte. 3), and thence to Liss Stat. Hawkley Ch. is modern, on the site of the old one. The view from the Hangers is extensive. Skirting the Hanger of Adhurst St. Mary , a modern Elizabethan house (J. Bon¬ ham Carter, Esq.), we overlook the hamlet of Sheet, with a modern Ch., before arriving at 55| m., PETERSFIELD Stat. (Junct. for Midhurst). Petersfield is an ancient borough, to which a charter was granted by Wm,, Earl of Gloucester, in the 12th centy., and confirmed by his widow, the Countess Hadwisa. Both charters still exist. Petersfield was once the seat of a considerable woollen manu¬ facture, and still boasts of a good corn and cattle market. It formerly returned two members to Parlia¬ ment. The tourist will find Peters¬ field a good centre for exploring the surrounding country, but lie will not be much detained by anything in the town itself. The Ch., originally a chapelry of Buriton, has a Norm, chancel- arch, and some E. E. windows, but has been much modernised; it was completely restored in 1874. In the market-place stands a leaden equestrian statue of William III., once richly gilt, presented by William Jollifi'e, Esq., M.P. for the borough in 1724, as a proof of his admiration for “ the avenger of liberty.” Adjacent to the town is The Heath , a wide tract with some tumuli diversifying its surface, and a fine piece of water of 23 acres. Heath House , belonging to Lord Hylton, is the residence of Capt. the Hon. W. S. Hylton Jolliffe. The Borough Hills, two large tumuli to the W. of the town, formerly com¬ manded a fine view of the surround¬ ing country, but the railway has been carried through the centre of one, and the excellence of the sand of which it is composed is fast lead¬ ing to the demolition of the other. Excursions. i (1.) The field w r alks and drives from Petersfield are very attractive. To the S.E., the Sussex border is accessible through a very pleasant country. The pedestrian should follow the stream of the Rother, and visit Trotton Church , where are some remarkable Brasses. (See H.Bk. for Sussex .) The chalk range (the S. Downs), climbed about 2 m. S. of Petersfield, may be fol- Boute 1 .— Buriton. 5 lowed throughout its whole course eastward from this point, a delight¬ ful tour for a pedestrian. A Branch Railway runs eastward in the valley of the Rother to Mid¬ hurst (9m.), and Petworth (15 m.). where it joins the Mid-Sussex line. (See H.Bk. for Sussex.) (2.) Another excursion may be by the modern parish of Langrish to Froxfiald, a very pretty village, 4 m. N.W. The Ch. has been rebuilt on a new site, but retains three Norm, piers and capitals from the old building. From Stoner Hill, E., where many traces of Homan occu¬ pation have been discovered, there is a fine panoramic view, including even the sea, through gaps in the Downs. We may return by the Alton road through Steep, where the Ch. is partly late Norm. (3.) From Petersfield the very interesting Norm. Ch. and Manor- house of East Meon , 4 m.W. (Rte. 3), may be visited, and the antiquary may continue his excursion to the most interesting places of Rte. 3, Warnford and Corhampton. The return may be over Stoke Down into the Portsmouth road 1 m. S. of Petersfield. This will be a long round (about 20 in.). A very picturesque “cross-coun¬ try ” walk may be taken by Hawldey and Empshott {ante) to Selborne (Rte. 5), 12 m. there and back. (4.) The old Portsmouth road from Liphook to Petersfield affords some magnificent prospects. The road passes over a high ridge, from whence wide views are commanded over a very picturesque corner of Sussex, towards Midhurst and Pet- worth. Leaving Petersfield, the line ap¬ proaches the South Downs, through which it passes by a short tunnel under Head Down , passing the farm¬ house of Mapledurham, on W., where was formerly a noble mansion, the residence of the last Lord Stawell. .Before entering the tunnel we see on E. the village of Buriton, which has an interesting Ch., with Trans.- Norm. nave and E. E. chancel, containing a fine sedile, with pis¬ cina and aumbry. The rood-screen is a re-erected copy of the old one, of Perp. work. Among the rectors of Buriton were Benjamin Laney, Bp., after the Restora¬ tion, successively of Peterborough, Lincoln, and Ely; andWm. Lowtli, the commentator, father of the greater commentator, Bp. Lowtli of Oxford and London, who was born at the rectory, 1710. Behind the Ch. may be seen the red-brick Manor-house , where Gibbon the his¬ torian (who was born at Putney) passed many of his early years under his father’s roof. About 1761 he became captain of a battalion ot the Hampshire Militia, in which capacity he “ for 2| years endured a wandering life of military servi¬ tude,” but gained practical experi¬ ence, which, as he states in his Auto¬ biography, he afterwards turned to good account in his History. The railroad now passes E. of the Portsmouth road, and strikes due S. to Havant. After passing through the tunnel (480 yds. long) the line begins its descent to Row¬ land’s Castle, passing the woods of Ditcham Park (L. T. Cave, Esq.) on E. The house was burnt down in 1888, but has been rebuilt. Be¬ yond the Downs on W. are the village and picturesque Ch. of Chal- ton (i.e. Chalk-town). It has a low- side window. Clanfield Ch., W. of it, was rebuilt by B. J. C. Jones , but retains the old font and W. window. Idsworth Park , E., the seat of Sir A. Clarke-Jervoise, has been rebuilt in modern Elizabethan style on higher ground, W. of the line, a mile from the old site. 6 j Route 1.— Havant . Idsworth Ch., which stands pictur¬ esquely among some old yews in the park, on the E., deserves a visit for the wall paintings on its N. wall, representing a scene from the life of St. Hubert, and two from that of St. John the Baptist. 1 m. W. is Blendworth, a village commanding magnificent views. The Ch. is modern, but the old Ch. is still used as a mortuary chapel. Passing the hamlet of Finclidean, we reach at 63J m., Rowland’s Castle Stat., on the borders of Sussex. The village takes its name from an intrenched mound close to the gates of Stansted Park on E. (see H.Bk. for Sussex ), in and near which many Roman coins have been found. The surface soil of the “ castle ” consists of a black mould, full of fragments of Roman pottery, including much Sa¬ mian ware. Roman bricks were certainly made here. It adjoined the line of Roman road from Chichester (Regnum) to Portchester (Portus Magnus), and was, no doubt, a small frontier fortress or “ castellum,” guarding the edge of the, great woodland. Perhaps the name of Roland, the famous paladin of ro¬ mance (he is said to have lived here), which has been given it, indi¬ cates that the remains were of suffi¬ cient importance to attract attention in days when the royal chase was frequently led through the Forest of Bere. On the green at Rowland’s Castle are some handsome alms¬ houses, styled Stansted College, erected by a London merchant (the late C. Dixon, Esq., of Stansted Park), for “ his less fortunate brethren.” Six “ decayed mer¬ chants” of London, Liverpool, or Bristol find an asylum here. The woods of Stansted and Up Park, and the remarkable scenery about Bow Hill and Kingley Bottom are within reach. The gate of Stansted Forest, in Sussex, is only a few minutes’ walk E. from Rowland’s Castle Stat. The “ forest ” of 1666 acres has a fine central avenue of beeches, 2 m. long. Beyond is Stansted Park, the drives in which are not open (see H.Bk. for Sussex, Rte. 7 ; Excursions from Chichester). The Forest of Bere ( bearo , A.-S., woodland), W. of the line, once, like other wooded tracts in the county, a royal hunting ground, contains 16,000 acres, and has been entirely inclosed. It had two great divisions, the east and west walks ; and still affords some good scenery, although great part of it has been cleared and cultivated. The district, however, is comparatively level, and by no means so attractive as that lying to the N. and E. The parish of Den- mead, with a modern Ch., is partly formed out of the forest. There was an ancient chapel here, of which part remains in a farm-house. 66J m., HAVANT Stat., the junc¬ tion with the L. B. & S. C. line, and for Hayling Island (Rte. 2). A short loop line also connects Havant with Cosham (Rte. 4), 4 m., by which passengers from the Brighton line can travel to Eastleigh Junction (Rte. 4), for Southampton or Salisbury, without having to enter Portsmouth. A fine old tim¬ bered manor-house near the Stat. was pulled down in 1881. Havant (styled Haveliunt in Domesday, and then belonging to the monks of Winchester) mainly consists of two long streets, and has a large cruciform Ch., the nave and tower of which were almost re¬ built in 1874-5. It still, however, retains a venerable appearance, and is of some interest. The low chancel is vaulted with chalk, the groining ribs being carried on shafts of Pur- beck, and has two good E. E. win¬ dows discovered at the restoration. 7 Boute 1.-— Bedhampton. A Purbeck font, with a carving of a griffin, and a window with paintings in the splays, were also then disclosed. In the pavement is the brass, with effigy in cope, of Thomas Aylward, 1413 (the secretary of William of Wykeham), who was long rector of this parish. The Perp. E. window has been replaced by an E. E. trip¬ let, with painted glass, by Clayton and Bell. The learned Bingham, author of the Origines, died rector of Havant, in 1723. 1| m. N. of Havant is Leigh Parh (Gen. Sir F. W. Fitzwygram, Bart., M.P.), a very fine seat, on the edge of the Forest of Bere. It was long the residence of Sir George Staunton, who accompanied Lord Macartney on his embassy to China, and on his return published his well-known narrative of the expedition. The house was rebuilt in 1864. The hot¬ houses and conservatories contain some very rare plants, and there is a tract of 700 acres of woodland, called The Thicket , and a lake with several islets planted with rhodo¬ dendrons. At Bedhampton, 1 m. W. from Havant, E lizabeth, Countess of Kent, widow of John Plantagenet, grand¬ son of Edward I., who in spite of her vow of widowhood had married Sir Eustace Dabrieschescourt as her 2nd husband, died in 1411. (See E.Bk. for Kent , Wingham.) The manor formed part of her dower. The Ch. has a Norm, chancel arch. The Ch. of Farlington, N. of the line, was restored and the chancel rebuilt by Street. It has an E. E. piscina and a cross-legged effigy. Skirting Langston Harbour (the eastern harbour of Portsmouth) on S., the Rly. proceeds through the fortifications of Hilsea, across Port- sea Island to 73 m., Fratton Stat. This is the junction for East Southsea, to which the Rly. was opened 1885. The great new Ch. of St. Mary’s, Port- sea {post), is conspicuous on rt. 73J m., Portsmouth Town Stat., in Landport, for Portsmouth High Street, and the Clarence Esplanade and Pier, Southsea, to which tram- cars run. 74 m., Portsmouth Harbour Stat., for Portsen, the Dockyard, and the the Isle of Wight boats. FROM PETERSFIELD TO PORTS¬ MOUTH, BY ROAD. If the tourist prefers to travel from Petersfield to Portsmouth by the Turnpike road, he will, about 2 m. S. of Petersfield, enter on the chalk district, and commence the ascent of the Downs. The road here crosses Butser Hill (889 ft.), the highest ground in Hampshire, form¬ ing the western termination of the S. Downs, which here unite with the broader massof chalk stretching over the greater part of Hampshire, Wilts, and Dorset, from which the N. and S. Downs extend eastward in two long and narrow chains. The view from Butser Hill is a magnificent one, though perhaps scarcely so manage¬ able for the artist as others which are obtained from the same range of hills further E. The ridge crest¬ ing the hill is unusually narrow, overhanging a deep valley on either side; N. are seen the chalk hills about Highclere and Andover; E. the eye ranges over much of the Weald of Sussex, with its boundary¬ line of downs; W. the spire of Salis¬ bury cathedral (40 in. distant) is visible in clear weather; and S., beyond Portsdown Hill, are Ports¬ mouth, Spithead, and the Isle of Wight. A good general idea of the surface of the county may be ob¬ tained from this spot. 8 Route 1.— Portsmouth. 1 m. beyond Butser Hill Ditcham Park (ante) is seen on E. Descend¬ ing the slope of the Downs, pleasant with short turf and patches of wood¬ land iu the hollows, we reach the hamlet of Horndean (10 m. from Portsmouth), on the edge of the old Forest of Bere. On the hill, W., stands Catherington Ch. (St. Cathe¬ rine — the dedication shows the origin of the name), a good speci¬ men of early Norm., in which are tine marble effigies of Sir Nicholas Hyde (uncle to Lord Clarendon), Chief Justice of England, and his wife (d. 1631). In the ch.-yd. is buried Admiral Sir C. Napier, who died, 1860, at Merchiston House (Mrs. Doudney), 1 m. distant, at the S. end of the village of Horndean. The view from the ch.-yd. is very tine, Catherington House (F. J. Douglas, Esq.) was built by Admiral Lord Hood. Queen Caroline was here before her trial in 1820. Hinton House (H. S. Whalley-Tooker, Esq.), which is modern, replaces an old seat of the Earls of Clarendon. A course of about 4 m. through the Forest of Bere brings the tourist first to the modern village, called Waterloo, and then to the hamlet of Purbrook; and 1 m. further he passes the E. end of Portsdown Hill, a long outlier of the chalk, rising to a height of 400 ft. Toe view from it is very striking, though closed in to the N. by the higher ground of Butser, toward which you look across the Forest of Bere. At 13 m. from Petersfield we reach the village of Cosham, with a Stat. on the S. W. line to Fareham (Rte. 4). Passing on, we cross Portsdown Bridge, where there is a good view of Portchester Castle on the low ground W., with the line of Forts on the range of the hills, and on E. Hilsea Lines, with the wide expanse of Langston Harbour in the distance. Hence it is about 3 m. to Portsmouth, making the distance from Petersfield 17 in., or 2 m. less than by the rly. PORTSMOUTH. Portsmouth consists of four distinct portions, viz.: Portsmouth, central; Portsea, N. ; Southsea, S. and S.E.; and Landport, E. and N.E. Across the harbour is Gosport. The older Barracks are mainly in Portsmouth, but the newer ones are on Southsea Common; the Garrison Chapel is near the Victoria Pier; the Dock¬ yard is in Portsea, near the Harbour Stat. The Victualling Yard and Haslar Hospital are at Gosport. Southsea, quite a modern creation, is a fashionable bathing place, with many handsome houses. The older parts of the other towns abound in mean and narrow streets, but yet have little of real antiquity. INDEX. PAGE (a) History of Portsmouth .... 8 (b) Portsmouth Town—Churches, Town Hall, &c.11 (c) Southsea.12 (d) Dockyard and Extension Works . 13 (e) Gosport — Clarence Yard, Haslar Hospital.15 (/) Portsmouth Harbour.16 ( g ) Spithead, the Defence Works, and Sea Forts.18 (h) Portsea Island.21 ( i ) Excursions from Portsmouth . . 21 (a) History of Portsmouth. —Ports¬ mouth is of far more recent origin than Southampton, and its real im¬ portance only dates from the reign of Henry VIII. Portchester Castle (Rte. 4) was the guardian of this part of the coast during the middle ages, but a small town existed at the entrance of the harbour—‘ ‘ Ports¬ mouth”—from a period soon after the Conquest. Robert, Duke of Nor¬ mandy, landed here in 1101, when he passed into England to dispute the throne with his brother Henry I., who himself “wore his crown” here at Whitsuntide, 1123, instead of at Gloucester, where the festival was 9 J Route 1.— Portsmouth. usually kept. The Empress Matilda landed at “ Portesmue ” in 1140; but the town was as yet but small, and had no church until the canons of Southwick (Rte. 4), about 1180, founded the present parish Ch. Richard I. gave the town its first charter. The first oranges ever seen in England—at all events the first recorded — were brought to Ports¬ mouth by a Spanish vessel in 1290, and purchased for the Castilian queen of Edward I. (Household Expenses of Edward I.). The town was burned by the French in 1372, after which it was either fortified for the first time, or the older defences were much improved. The harbour was evidently of considerable im¬ portance in 1449, when Adam de Moleyns, Bishop of Chichester, keeper of the king’s privy seal, was killed here by the sailors, whose wages he was paying, for his * ‘ boister langage and abriggyng of their wages.” In 1540, when, Portsmouth was visited by Leland, the mouth of the harbour was defended, as was then the case at Plymouth, Dart¬ mouth, and elsewhere, by a “ mighty chain of iron” stretched between two round towers, which had been begun by Edward IV. and finished by Henry VII., at the instance of Bishop Fox. “The town,” accord¬ ing to Leland, “ was bare, and little occupied in time of peace.” The “great dock for ships” was, how¬ ever, already one of the most im¬ portant in England; and in it Leland saw the ribs of the Harry Grace de Dieu, the great ship built at Erith (see H.Bk. for Kent), which had conveyed Henry VIII. from Dover to the ‘ ‘ Field of the Cloth of Gold.” The English fleet was col¬ lected at Portsmouth in July, 1545, when it was attacked by the great French armament, under the admiral Claude d’Annebault. An indecisive action, lasting two days, took place off Spithead, in which the English fleet was commanded by Lord Lisle. During the action the Mary Rose, one of the largest of the English ships — a four-castled, 6o-cannon vessel — was overpowered by the weight of her own ordnance, heeled greatly, and was sunk by the water rushing into her portholes ; 600 men, with her commander, Sir George Carew, w 7 ere drowned in her. Some portions of this ship have been re¬ covered by divers, and may be seen in the Museum of the United Service Institution, London. We can form some idea of the equipment of the “jolly tars” of that period by the huge yew bows which were found in the wreck, and with which evidently 9-ioths of the crew of the Mary Rose were armed. After plundering a portion of the Isle of Wight, and attacking the Sussex coast without much result, the French fleet retired. See, for an admirable picture of the action at Spithead, and for the subse¬ quent events, Froude, ‘Hist. Eng.,’ iv. The watchword of the English fleet at night on this occasion was perhaps the origin of the National Anthem. The challenge was ‘ ‘ God save the King.” The answer was, “Long to reign over us. ”— Froude. Henry was himself at Portsmouth during the action, and is recorded to have * ‘ gently comforted ” Lady Carew on the loss of her husband. Portsmouth was visited by Ed¬ ward VI. in 1552, who found the “ Bulwarks chargeable, massy, and ramparted ; but ill-fashioned, ill- flanked, and set in remote places, the town great in comparison of what it ought to be, and within the walls fair and large closes and much vacant room.” Elizabeth increased the strength of the fortifications, to which little was afterwards done until the reign of James II. He inciosed Gosport with its present lines, and began those lately destroyed at Ports¬ mouth, but a gate bearing his name still remains, having been re-erected near the Officers’ Recreation Ground. Those of Portsea, also now removed, were built during the American war. These fortifications remained sub¬ stantially unchanged during the French revolutionary war, and the long peace that succeeded it ; but at length it began to be acknow¬ ledged that they were quite unfit to contend with the rifled guns of the present day. 10 Route 1.— Portsmouth. In 1628 James Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, the “ Steenie ” of King James, and the evil genius of Charles I., was killed here by John Felton, “aprotestant, who had been a lieutenant in the army, but had retired from the service because on two occasions junior officers had been advanced over his head, and the sum of 80/., the arrears of his pay, had been withheld. The Remon¬ strance of the House of Commons, he said, had convinced him that Buckingham was the cause of the national calamities, and that to be¬ reave him of life was to serve his God, his king, and his country. . . . Otherwise he felt no enmity to the Duke. Even as he struck he had prayed, ‘ May God have mercy on thy soul! ’ ”— Lingard. Buckingham was on the point of departing with the armament for the relief of Ro¬ chelle, then besieged by Richelieu. The murder took place in a house, part of which still remains (now No. 12, High Street , three doors from the Cambridge Barracks) , then a large inn, and known as the “Spotted Dog.” “The Duke had left his dressing-room to proceed to his car¬ riage. He had entered the hall, when Colonel Friar whispered in his ear. He turned to listen, and at the moment received a wound in the left breast from a knife, which was left sticking in his heart. Exclaim¬ ing the word ‘villain,’ he plucked it out, staggered backwards a few steps, and, falling against a table, was caught in the arms of his atten¬ dants. . . . The noise was heard by the Duchess in her bedchamber, who, with his sister, the Countess of Anglesea, ran into the gallery, and saw her lord below weltering in his blood.”— Lingard. Felton was exe¬ cuted at Tyburn, but his body was afterwards hung in chains on South- sea Common. A part of the gibbet is inclosed in the obelisk on the common. The knife or dagger with which he killed the Duke is now in the possession of the Earl of Denbigh, at Newnham Padox in Warwick¬ shire. When the civil war was on the eve of breaking out, Portsmouth was, according to Lord Clarendon, “the strongest and best fortified town in the kingdom,” so that Henrietta Maria thought of taking refuge in it when the king went to the north. It was well for her that she did not do so, as Goring, the governor, after loud professions of defending the place to the last extremity, soon surrendered it to the Parlia¬ ment. In 1662 the marriage of Charles II. with Catherine of Braganza was cele¬ brated at Portsmouth, where the bride had arrived, escorted by the squadron commanded by Lord Sandwich. The ceremony took place in the hall of what was then known as the ‘ ‘ King’s House,” now the garrison church. Two other historical events are, the execution of Admiral John Byng, and the sinking of the Royal George. The Trial of Admiral Byng took place in January, 1757, on board the Monarque, then lying in Portsmouth harbour. He was unjustly accused of having been the cause of the loss of Minorca to England in the former year. The excitement against him at home was very great, and he was basely sacrificed to it by the ministry, headed by the Duke of Devonshire, then in power. After a long trial he was found guilty of not having “ done his utmost,” and sentenced to be shot; he was unanimously recom¬ mended to mercy, but no attention was paid to this recommendation. On the 14th of March, Byng, having taken leave of his friends, appeared on the quarter-deck of the Monarque. He then, sitting on a chair, bandaged his own eyes, gave the signal to the marines, and fell, pierced by five bullets. Only three minutes had elapsed from the time of his first coming on deck. ‘ ‘ Dans ce pays-ci il est bon de Bier, de temps en temps, un amiral, pour encourager les autres. ”— Voltaire, 1 Candide. ’ But the Loss of the Royal George is the event that most powerfully appeals to the recollection of the visitor to Portsmouth. In August, 1782, Lord Howe’s squadron had returned here, after protecting the Jamaica convoy from the combined JEtoute 1 .— French and Spanish fleets ; and was preparing for another expedition in aid of Gibraltar. Among the ships of the squadron was the Royal George, of 108 guns, commanded by Rear-Admiral Richard Kempenfelt, then deemed the finest ship in the British navy. She had borne a con¬ spicuous part in the celebrated action of Lord Hawke on the coast of Brit¬ tany ; and since that time had been repeatedly the flag-ship of nearly all our great commanders. In order to stop a slight leak, previous to a new expedition, it became necessary to incline the vessel slightly on her side. But so little risk was anticipated from the operation, that the Admiral, with his officers and men, remained on board. Indeed, as is usually the case on coming into port, the ship was crowded with people from the shore, especially Jews, women and children ; the number of the women has been computed at 300. At noon of the 29 th of August, the Admiral was writing in his cabin, and most of the people were between decks. It is supposed that the carpenters may have inclined the ship a little more than they were ordered, when a sud¬ den squall of wind threw her fatally upon her side, and, her gun-ports being open, she almost instantly filled with water and went down. A victualler, which lay alongside, was swallowed up in the whirlpool which the plunge of so vast a body caused, and several other craft, though at some distance, were in the most imminent danger. About 300, chiefly sailors who had the watch on deck, were able to save themselves by swimming and the aid of boats ; but the persons that perished, men, women, and children, though they could not be accurately reckoned, amounted, it is thought, almost to 1000. Of these, no one was more deeply or more deservedly lamented than Admiral Kempenfelt himself. A monument in Portsea churchyard and another at Alverstoke have been raised to his memory. He was the son of a Swedish gentleman who, coming early into the English service, followed the fortunes of his master, James II., and was held, both at Portsmouth. 11 home and abroad, to be one of the best naval officers of his time. The enormous wreck of the Royal George lay full in the roadstead, and was in no small degree dangerofls to shipping. Various attempts were made to remove it, but with very slight success, until in the summer of 1839 Colonel Pasley, R.E., under¬ took the work, with a detachment of his corps, and in the course of'six seasons effected its entire demolition and removal. The wreck was bloWn up by large cylinders filled with powder, and fired by means of a voltaic battery. The operations were not concluded till the summer of 1844. See United Service Journal , 1844, for a full account of the opera¬ tions. ( b ) Portsmouth Town affords but few attractions in itself to the tourist, the chief points of interest being the Harbour, Dockyard, and Garrison Church. What now remains of the old ramparts commands some pleas¬ ing views of the ships at Spithead and the Isle of Wight beyond. On the land side the ramparts are planted with trees, and form an agreeable terrace walk. From the Saluting Platform , near the Victoria Pier, one of the best views of Portsmouth, with the harbour and Spithead, is obtained. At the waterside, N. of it, are the Queen’s Stairs, at which royal personages and high officials land and embark, and hard bv, at the end of the High Street, is the Victoria Pier, once the chief place of em¬ barkation for Ryde, but of little importance since the opening of the Harbour Stat. Between the two stairs is the Point Battery, a huge stone bastion; in a niche of the land-face of which, facing the High Street, is a gilt bust of Charles I., set up by Lord Wimbledon, to whom it had been presented by the king in commemoration of his landing here, Oct. 5, 1623, on his return from Spain, “having passed many perils by sea and land, but with¬ out the Infanta.”— Carlyle. Con- 12 J Route 1.— Portsmouth. nected with the Battery are the erected, St. Mary’s Church, Portsea, remains of one of the round towers, and the new Town Hall. Sir W. called “ King Edward’s Tower,” to Besant’s novel, By Celia's Arbour , which the chain that defended the is a pleasant companion for tracing harbour was attached. out Old Portsmouth. The Barracks of the district are as follows. In Portsmouth, the Cambridge (Line Regts.), High Street; the new Clarence (Artillery), and the new Victoria (Line), to¬ wards Southsea Common; Colewort (Army Service), towards Portsea; Milldam (Engineers), Portsea; Gun Wharf and Broad Street , near Cus¬ tom House (Artillery). The Marine Artillery Barracks are at Eastney, beyond Southsea. In Gosport are the New Barracks (Rifle Depot) ; and the Marine Light Infantry Barracks at Forton, 1 m. N. The Anglesea Barracks at Portsmouth are now absorbed in the Dockyard. Portsmouth was the birthplace of Jonas Hanway, the philanthropist, 1712 ; Isambard K. Brunei, the engineer, 1806; and Charles Dickens (who was born at 387 (west side), Commercial Road, Landport, on Feb. 7th, 1812). In the middle of Broad Street, which leads from the Victoria Pier to the Floating Bridge, for¬ merly stood the Blue Posts , familiar to the readers of ‘ Peter Simple ’; it was burnt in May, 1870, and has been rebuilt as a private house. Another noted Portsmouth inn, the Fountain , in High Street, has been converted into a Soldiers’ and Sailors’ Institute. Few towns have been more im¬ proved in appearance than Ports¬ mouth of late years. Handsome new barracks have replaced) some of the ugly ones that before were an eyesore; the dreary spaces left by the demolition of walls and forts have been filled up by well-kept public parks and recreation-grounds for different regiments, &c.; and two fine public buildings have been The *Town Hall, standing on a fine open site nearly opposite to the Town Stat., is a very striking build¬ ing, designed by W. Hill, of Leeds, adapted from that at Bolton, and well deserving the attention of all students of modern architecture. In it is the Public Library. Close to the Town Hall and Town Stat. is the Victoria Park of 15 acres, where a band often plays. On the N. side is the unfinished red-brick Bom. Cath. Cathedral. High Street is the principal street in Portsmouth Town, though more shopping is now done in Palmerston Road, Southsea. In it is the public Museum. The collections are of no great importance, but there are some interesting drawings and photo¬ graphs of the destroyed gates and ramparts. At the George Hotel Nelson stayed for the night before his last voyage. (c) Turning out of High Street by Pembroke Street, or by the Grand Parade and Garrison Chapel, or else taking a tramcar at the Town Stat., we soon reach the extensive suburb of Southsea, comprising many handsome terraces, large hotels, and villas facing the sea, and largely inhabited by naval and military officers. It is much visited in summer as a watering-place, and has tolerable bathing. Southsea Common, a sandy plain, on which are handsome new barracks, is used for reviews, inspections, &c., and begins immediately outside the site of the old walls of Portsmouth. Here the English armies en¬ camped under Edward IV. in 1475, under Henry VIII., and when Route 1.— Portsmouth. 13 the expedition against Rochelle was preparing in 1628. The last force of importance collected here was in 1801. After Rodney’s victory in 1782, Count de Grasse, the French commander, whom he had captured with six of his ships, landed with his suite on Southsea Common (Aug. 5), and was sumptu¬ ously entertained at the George by Vice-Admiral Sir Peter Parker. Upon the beach are the Roijal Clarence Rooms and Baths , with a promenade and reading-room, &c. Close adjoining is the Clarence Pier, where a military band often per¬ forms. For about 1 m. a handsome Esplanade runs eastwards, along which are disposed numerous co¬ lumns, chiefly raised in memory of the officers and crews of various ships, as the ‘ Chesapeake/ the ‘ Trident/ the ‘ Aboukir/ * Sir W. Peel/ &c., the anchor of the ‘Victory/ a Russian gun, others from Japan, and two large blocks of granite, surmounted by mortars taken by Adm. Sir C. Napier from Bomarsund. The Pier, at which several of the Ryde steamers touch, affords a pleasant pro¬ menade, with varied views of the Isle of Wight and Spithead. An obelisk, at no great distance, marking the boundary of the borough, incloses a fragment of Felton’s gibbet (History, ante). Further S., at the end of the Esplanade, is Soutlisect Castle (see Defences, post), beyond which a promenade is continued as far as Bast Southsea Pier (If m. from Clarence Pier). Palmerston Road at Southsea is now the principal shopping quarter of Portsmouth, and the shops are very good. There are several Churches at Southsea, but of little interest. St. Jude’s, in Palmerston Road, is the most important. The tramcars to Beach Mansions (East Southsea) cross Palmerston Road. (d) The main entrance to the *Dockyard(with the date 1709 beside it) is by the Common Hard (i.e. a quay or sea-terrace) at Portsea. The hours for admission are from 10 to 12. and from 1.30 to 3. (12 to 1 is dinner-time.) Native Eng¬ lishmen require no introduction. Foreigners must have an order from the Admiralty. The Dockyard of Portsmouth, said to be the largest in the world, is in fact a town in itself, having in¬ creased from 8 acres in 1540, 95 in 1790, 115 in 1848, to 294 acres in 1890. Since then a large addition has been made, the Admiralty having purchased the Anglesea Barracks and the Military Hospital. It is situated on the E. side of the harbour, and is supplied with all the necessary means for building, repairing, and fitting out ships of war. Great additions and altera¬ tions are constantly being made, for which the tourist should inquire of the very intelligent Dockyard police, who act as guides. Within its walls are 15 available dry docks (3 roofed over), 5 covered slips for building and launching ships, 62 acres of enclosed basins, affording over 12,000 ft. run of wharfage, in addition to 1000 ft. fronting the harbour, about 10 miles of railway, stores and workshops innumerable, besides a Naval Col¬ lege for sub-lieutenants, Admiralty House, where the Commander-in- chief resides, residences for the Admiral Superintendent and 17 of the chief officers of the yard, an observatory, and a Church , in the cupola of which is the bell of the ill-fated ‘ Royal George/ and also a Russian bell, a relic of the Crimean War. Entering by the main gate, on the rt. is College Road , leading to the far end of the yard. Past the College and Admiralty House (which faces an open square, in the centre of which is a statue of William III. cast in lead), and other residences, 14 Route 1.— Portsmouth. to the 1. are the old Mast-Houses (now No. 4 storehouse), at the far end of which is Camber Road, lead¬ ing to the S. Railway Jetty of timber 720 ft. long, on which trains run over a swing bridge from the Harbour Stat. On the opposite side of the main road from the entrance is the Boat Pond, communicating with the har¬ bour by a tunnel under the road with a tidal gate, and surrounded by storehouses, in which ships’ boats are built, repaired, and stored ready for use. Above one of these store¬ houses (No. 8) are the Schools for the instruction of the engineering students and dockyard apprentices, with an excellent Library for the use of officers and men in the dockyard. Looking down the main road to the 1., over an archway leading to the S. Railway Jetty, is the Signal- tower with the Semaphore, crowning the lofty Rigging-store and Sail-loft. To this tower the Commander-in- chiefs orders are telephoned, and thence semaphored by day and flashed by night to the various ships afloat. The next turning rt. is Anchor Lane , appropriated to anchors not in use; the heaviest weigh about 7 tons, 3 of them being allowed to the largest ironclads. Passing a row of offices rt.—containing amongst others the offices of the Admiral Superin¬ tendent and also the Surgery, where medical officers are always in readi¬ ness to attend to cases of sudden illness or accident—the site of the original dockyard is reached, of which there still remains the Old Basin (covering about 3 acres), once known as the Great Basin, surroun¬ ded by 6 dry docks, its entrance marked by 2 pairs of giant shears, each capable of lifting 40 tons, and flanked on each side by a jetty for ships to lie alongside. Of these 6 dry docks, the first was constructed in 1698, before which time ships were sent to Woolwich and Chatham for repairs; opposite the ends of Nos. 3, 4, and 5, which are roofed over, is a range of covered saw-pits, and behind them a large timber- yard, flanked by shops and stores, whilst opposite the end of No. 6 are the Wood Mills. These mills contain circular and other saws, boring machines, &c., all moved by steam, by which the timber required for the navy is formed and fashioned. Here the block machinery, invented by Sir Marc Isambard Brunei, 1802-1808 (the engineer of the Thames Tun¬ nel), may be seen in operation. By a series of most ingenious machines, 12 or 14 in number, a tree is intro¬ duced at one end of the shed, is cut, squared, drilled, bored, and turned into the shape required. The introduction of iron as a ship¬ building material has greatly altered the appearance of the dockyard, but still the forging of the anchors is a sight of great interest, and visitors are fortunate who happen to arrive at the time when such a work is in progress. An anchor of the smaller kind is formed of a bundle or sheaf of iron bars, which when heated red-hot in the furnace is moved by a crane on to the forge, and is there hammered by Nasmyth’s wonderful steam-hammer, so power¬ ful as to weld an anchor, and yet so nicely regulated as to crack a nut and not crush the kernel. Passing Nos. 7 and 10 docks, which also give access to the Steam Basin , the 5 Building Slips are reached; these slips occupy about. 15 acres reclaimed from the mud- land in 1765, and are covered with enormous roofs under which ships in every stage of construction may be seen, but no strangers are allowed to enter ships on the stocks. E. of these is the Steam Basin, 900 ft. 15 Houte 1.— Gosport. long by 400 ft. broad, opened by the Queen in 1848. The Extension Works occupy about 180 acres, one-half reclaimed from the harbour, stretching as far as Fountain Lake on the N. and to the Portsea gas-works on E. They include four new basins—(1) the Tidal Basin (9 acres), opening otf the Harbour with a width of 280 ft. at its mouth ; in it are entrances to the Old Basin, the other 3 basins, and the new Dry Dock, which is 458 ft. long, and said to be the largest in the world. None of the entrances are less than 80 ft. wide, with a depth of 27 ft. at lowest spring tides, so that the largest ironclads can enter at all states of the tide: (2) the Repairing Basin (22 acres), separated from the Tidal Basin by the deep dock and two lock-gates arranged for use as extra dry-docks: (3) the Rigging Basin (15f acres), which also has one entrance from Fountain Lake. At the E. end of this basin a pair of 80-ton shears tower into the air, and in its S. wall are the entrances to the dry docks: (4) the Fitting Basin (151 acres) entered from the Tidal and Rigging Basins; at its W. end is Coal Point , where large stores of coal are kept in readiness for use on the ships or in the dock¬ yard. Of the mud excavated from these basins the bulk has been deposited on the small island in the harbour, known as Whale Island, which, originally 11J acres in extent, lias now increased to nearly 90. On this a gunnery establishment, co¬ vered gun-drill, battery 900 ft. long, rifle range, pistol gallery, and gun¬ proving cell have been established. Besides this, a great deal of the mud has been used to fill up the old Mill Pond, lying between Portsmouth and Portsea, and to rectify inequalities on Southsea Qommon. From 700 to 800 convicts were constantly employed on the works, and all the bricks required were made by them from clay ob¬ tained on the spot. The total ex¬ pense of the extension is 2,250,000Z., and when the whole is completed, Portsmouth, it is considered, will be the finest establishment of its kind in the world. The Dockyard has 3 times been greatly injured by fire: in 1760 from the effect of lightning; again in 1770; and in 1776 from the attempts of an incendiary, John Aitken or “ Jack the Painter,” who was cap¬ tured at the ‘ Raven Inn ’ at Hook, tried for the crime at Winchester, and hanged on a gibbet of unusual height at the gates of the Dock¬ yard. (e) Across the harbour, 5 min. by Floating Bridge or steam-launch, is the town of Gosport, where, be¬ sides large Barracks, are the Boyal Clarence Victualling-yard , and Has- lar Hospital. There are two railway stations here, called Gosport and Gosport Road (see Rte. 4). God’s Port, contracted to Gosport, was the name given in 1158 to the spot where King Stephen found shelter from a storm, by Bp. Henry de Blois, the founder of St. Cross (Rte. 6). It occupies a sort of peninsula between 2 inlets of Ports¬ mouth Harbour, called Forton Lake, N., and Alverstoke Lake, S., and stands on rather higher ground than the opposite towns. A line of earth¬ works and ditch constructed by Charles II. incloses it. The only church of any interest. Holy Trinity, S. of the Hard, was built in 1696, but has a modern campanile tower, and handsome in¬ terior with a good pulpit, and a screen designed by Sir A. Blomfield, a memorial to Sir Andrew Clark. The organ was bought by the town for 117Z. 12s. from the Duke of Chandos, at the great break-up of 1G Boute 1.— Portsmouth. Canons in Middlesex, 1747, having been in the private chapel there at which Handel was organist. At the N. end of the town is tlio Royal Clarence Victualling-yard, removed here from Portsmouth in 1827-8. It contains vast store¬ houses, in which are laid up supplies of rum, tea, wine, tobacco, cocoa, salt-meat, flour, oatmeal, &c. There is also an enormous bread-store, and a brewery on an equally large scale. Clothing of all sorts is stored here. The great reservoir for the supply of ships with fresh water is fed from a well 360 ft. deep. A powerful steam-engine forces the water into raised tanks, from which it is run to the edge of the wharf and thence into the reservoirs of the vessels. The most interesting part of the Victualling establishment, however, is the Bakery , where sea-biscuits are made for the supply of the navy. They are made of the finest wheat, with a small admixture of bran. The process is exceedingly remark¬ able. In the upper part of the building the wheat is ground by steam and the flour sifted. It is transmitted, in quantities of 280 lbs., through a wooden pipe to the bakehouse, where it is mixed with 13J gallons of water. A revolving wheel, set with knives, converts the whole mass into dough, which . is cast in lumps under cylinders nearly a ton in weight, like garden- rollers, moving to and fro over iron tables. The dough is thus spread out into large blankets, which are doubled and refolded and rolled again until the texture be¬ comes smooth and even throughout, and not a lump is left. The blanket of dough, properly kneaded, cut into squares, and reduced to the thickness of a biscuit, is next stamped by a frame divided into a network resembling the cells of a honeycomb, which, without cutting through the crust, indent it with lines, by which it is afterwards broken into 52 biscuits. The blan¬ ket is jerked into the oven, how¬ ever, without breaking; 12 minutes suffice to bake the biscuits in 9 ovens, at tlie rate of 10 tons of biscuit in an hour. It is then broken into the proper shape, dried for 3 days, and finally packed in sacks. In the bread-loft may bo seen at times a store of biscuit sufficient for 10,000 men for 18 or 20 months. Adjoining the bakery are 4 commodious granaries, capable of storing away 6000 quarters of corn. About 1 m. S. of Gosport, across a toll bridge and behind the Block¬ house Fort, is Haslar Hospital (in the older form, Haselworth ), a large building of red brick, erected be¬ tween 1746 aud 1762 at the earnest recommendation of Lord Sandwich (“Jemmy Twitcher”), then First Lord of the Admiralty. It is the chief establishment of the kind in Great Britain, and can accommodate nearly 2000 sick or wounded officers, seamen, and marines. Within the walls are a chapel, and a natural history museum, chiefly formed by the medical officers, of objects from various parts of the world. Adjoin¬ ing is the Haslar Yard , in which is an extensive range of covered sheds, under which gunboats and torpedo- boats not in use are stored away and undergo slight repairs. At the far end of the yard is a long low building known as “ Froude’s Ex¬ perimental Works,” where experi¬ ments are made to ascertain the resistance to motion through the water offered by models of various vessels proposed to be built, with a view to fixing upon the best lines for stability and speed. For the Gosport Stations , Alverstoke Church, and Stokes Bay , see Ttte. 4. ( f ) Portsmouth Harbour, upon the excellence of which both town and dockyard depend for their im- 1 2 I filling' Basin Rigging' Basin ! \V, FidaJ 3 a sin Basin Stearaf~ T ~_3 Basin j p;fp| Roygl > \\Rurrow I V A ROYAL DOCKYARD Royal Clarence Vied l all in^ Yard rHcnJIa},k / v s 51 \ Waiting }in< m is »T Ynitinq > it VictoriiL\A Pajrk ^ Termini litdtew # * li V FORT 'Old Out i Mcnfs \eorcation Cnrunasium. Ground, lllli rIo'nobS- i§PHI ■ > KING EDWARDS) TOWER Fou it B aiuoh-K star Bridge i ak e Queens Sftwy\ "Victoria. Pier SalutingBatt* t)arrLson' •"Cltfpel /er /W.\ slar .// JettV StJoflii Clarence Clarmce ^ Esplanade Pier /HaslarK QucensH 61 PILAR PORTSMOUTH From the. Ordnance Survey Scale 1 : 21,120 r 3 Indies to 1 Mil* iOOOFeet 4000 1000 2000 Stn/'Jbrds Geog:EstabhshnientLoridon, L London: John Murray Albemarle Street. ■ J Route 1.— Portsmouth. 17 portance, affords good anchorage throughout, and is quite free from sunken rocks. It is less than 300 yards wide at the entrance, but expands into a noble basin, 4 m. long, by half that width. The posi¬ tion is unusually convenient, being in the centre of the British Channel, close to the anchorage of Spithead, and opposite to the great French arsenal of Cherbourg. The harbour extends, by a navigable creek, to Fareham, on W., washes the walls of Portchester (Rte. 4), and com¬ municates with Langston Harbour on E. On entering, we have on E. the Saluting Platform and the Point Battery, the latter heavily armed, and on the opposite shore the bat¬ tery on Blockhouse Point; these last are the modern representatives of the forts which Henry VIII. erected. Between Portsmouth and Portsea is the Gun-wharf, a space 14 acres in extent, upon which are carefully arranged the guns, mortars, &c., required for arming the British army and navy. Shot and shell of various patterns are also piled here in pyramids. Opposite to the mouth of the harbour, between it and the Isle of Wight, expands the famous roadstead of Spithead (post). The white towers of Osborne House (H.Bk. for Isle of Wight) are seen beyond, gleaming among the trees on the coast of the island. The Harbour is crossed by a floating bridge from Portsmouth Point to Gosport Hard, which leaves each side every half hour and crosses in 7 min. Small steam launches leave five times an hour, and do the passage in 5 min. Off the Dockyard lies the Victory , a fine specimen of the old “ wooden walls,” but especially interesting as being the ship in which Nelson died at Trafalgar. Frequent repairs have somewhat marred her identity, but of late much pains have been taken to replace sails, guns, &c., actually in use in the action. The spot on the [Hants. J deck where the hero fell is marked, and the dark corner of the cockpit where he breathed his last is pointed out. On the anniversary of Trafal¬ gar (Oct. 21) the ship is decorated with laurel. The Queen’s yachts, when not in attendance on her Majesty, are commonly at anchor in Portsmouth harbour, and may be seen on appli¬ cation. There are some 20 churches in and about Portsmouth, but the only ancient one (beside the Garrison Chapel) is that of St. Thomas of Canterbury, in High Street. The E. E. chancel and transepts, though disfigured, manifestly belong to the original building, and date from the time of Henry II. The Ch. was founded by the prior and canons of South wick near Portchester (Rte. 4), about 1180, with the advice and encouragement of Richard Toclive, Bp. of Winchester, 1174-1188. To¬ clive had been one of the chief opponents of Becket, and was ex¬ communicated by him. After the archbishop’s murder he made atone¬ ment by dedicating new churches to the martyr of Canterbury; others are at Lymington, and Newport, Isle of Wight. The Ch. was turned into a store-house under the Tudors, but was restored to sacred uses by Charles I., and the ugly tower and nave were rebuilt as we now see them about 1698. The font is E. E. The bells are interesting, as having been brought from the Roman Pharos in Dover Castle at the instance of Sir George Rooke and recast into 5 ; these were presented by Prince George of Denmark, then Lord High Admiral, and 3 were added later. The vane is in the form of a ship, 6 ft. 10 in. long, of copper gilt, put up in 1710, also by Prince George. On the S. side of the chancel is a hideous memorial (for¬ merly used as the altar-piece!) for the murdered Duke of Buckingham, 18 Route 1- erected by liis sister, the Countess ot‘ Denbigh, in 1631. The Duke’s heart is said to have been placed in the central marble urn. In the vestry is preserved the register, on vellum, of the marriage of Charles II. to Catherine of Braganza, May 22, 16G2. The organ, by Father Smith, is tine; it is said to have been built for Toledo Cathedral, but that the vessel conveying it was wrecked on Hayling Island. Tire ^Garrison Church, on the Grand Parade, S. of the Victoria Pier, is a very interesting building. Its chancel was the chapel, and its nave the hall of the Hospital of St. Nicholas, or “ God’s House,” founded by Peter de Eupibus, Bp. of Win¬ chester, c. 1280. In it Adam de Moleyns, Bp. of Chichester, was killed—see History, ante. After the Dissolution the buildings of the hospital were known as “ the King’s House,” and were occupied by the Governor for the time being. Still something of a religious character was preserved; and the marriage of Charles II. and Catherine of Bra¬ ganza was celebrated in the grand hall, or the presence-chamber, May 22, 1662. “ All the ribands on her Majesty’s dress,” says Sir K. Fan- slrawe, “were cut to pieces, and every one present had a fragment.” The royal pair remained here till May 27th. In after years the ex¬ terior was patched and plastered in the vilest manner, and the in¬ terior also suffered, though not so much. In 1866 its restoration was begun by G. E. Street, B.A., and has been most successfully accom¬ plished. It is now seen to be a very line E. E. building, with numerous memorial windows, and with 42 stalls of carved oak, in memory of Wellington, Nelson, the Napiers, and other distinguished officers, and also of 12 military chaplains who died in the Crimean War. The sacramental plate was the gift of Queen Anne, and the very handsome service books that of George III. (it being considered a chapel royal); the pulpit was presented by officers of the navy. Close outside the W. door is a monument to General Sir C. J. Napier, the conqueror of Scinde in 1843, and just beyond the in¬ closure, an Iona cross commemo¬ rates the officers and men of the 8tli Kegiment who fell in the Crimea. St. Mary’s, the great new Church of the parish of Portsea, often called Kingston Church, can be reached by tramear from the Town stat. to the end of Lake Road, whence it is 2 min. on rt., or it is | m. N. of Fratton Stat. The former Ch., which was pulled down in 1885, was only built in 1843, except the tower, and quite worthless. The present Cli., by Sir A. Blomfield , cost nearly 50,000L, half of which was given by the late Eight Hon. W. H. Smith. It consists of a nave of the Suffolk Perp. type, seating 2000 people, and a chancel of one bay. It is of Portland cement concrete, faced with flint, and dressed with Doulton quarried stone, The tower, which is 156 ft. high, affords a fine view from the summit. The stained windows are all by Burlison and Grylls. In the S. chapel is a Flemish picture of the Crucifixion. The alabaster font, pulpit, lectern, reredos, and other fittings should be noticed. (The old font, in which Dickens was baptized, is now in the Ch. of St. Stephen, Buckland Eoacl.) In the cli.-yd., S.E. corner, is a monument to those lost in the Royal George. (g) The famous roadstead of Spit- head (named from the “ Spit,” a sandbank about 3 m. long, which stretches S.E. from Gillkicker Point), lying between Portsmouth and the Isle of Wight, is a well- known rendezvous of the British navy, and the point from which the Boute 1. Portsmouth. 19 fleets of Nelson, Howe, St. Vincent, and Rodney have so often set forth to gather fresh laurels. The Baltic fleet, under Sir Charles Napier, was reviewed here by the Queen in 1854 ; in 1857, at the close of the war, a still more magnifi¬ cent naval display took place at Spit- head ; and in 1873 there was a grand review in honour of the Shah. A grand Naval Review was held here before the Queen at her Jubilee in 1887, but by far the greatest of all, the most magnificent assembly of ships ever witnessed, was the Naval Review in honour of the Queen’s “ Diamond” Jubilee, June 26, 1897, when 3 miles of ships, in 5 lines, were assembled. It was at Spithead that the famous mutiny occurred on board the Channel fleet in April and May, I 797> during the revolutionary war. Up to that time the pay and allow¬ ances of the seamen had remained the same as in the time of Charles II., although prices had, of course, greatly increased, and they had further ground of complaint in the short weight and measure dealt out to them. These, however, went un¬ heeded by the Admiralty, and at last, on the 15th of April, when Lord Bridport, who commanded the Channel fleet, made the signal to prepare for sailing, “ the crews of all the‘ships replied by three cheers, and declared they would not weigh anchor until their just demands were com¬ plied with — ‘ unless the enemy’s fleet should put to sea.’ ” Delegates were appointed from each ship, who preserved perfect order, and carried on a formal nego¬ tiation with Lord Howe, the repre¬ sentative of the Government. Most of their demands were conceded, and on the 14th of May the crews re¬ turned to their duty. The mutiny at the Nore, caused by doubts of the good faith of the concessions, succeeded this at Spithead. Parker, the seaman to whom the command had been given at the Nore, was tried by a court-martial and hanged. W. of Spithead is the Motherbank, a second roadstead formerly assigned to merchant ships, but now used as a quarantine station. Off St. Helen’s, on the E. shore of the Isle of Wight, is a third roadstead, the vessels assembled in which are visible from Portsmouth. The Defence Works of Ports¬ mouth Harbour will be of interest to the military tourist, and a short history and account of them will not be out of place here. In 1859 a Defence Commission was appointed, and reported that works mounting 987 guns, with barrack accommoda¬ tion for 7320 men, and costing, for building alone, the sum of 2,400,000?., were absolutely necessary to place our great naval arsenal in security. The works comprise the defence of the Needles passage on the one hand, and of the entry to the Spit¬ head anchorage on the other. They include forts on the Isle of Wight, a chain of works encircling Ports¬ mouth Harbour, from Browndown on W. by Portsdown Hill on N. (Rte. 4), to Southsea Castle on E., and the erection of 5 forts on the shoals between St. Helen’s and Portsmouth. After some demur, the recommendations of the Com¬ missioners were adopted, and have been gradually carried out. To understand the importance of these works, a trip by boat round Portsmouth Harbour is recom¬ mended. Starting, say from the Victoria Pier, you have on the E. side the Saluting Platform, an open work with trees on the remnant of the old ramparts, and the strong Point Battery ; opposite is the Blockhouse Fort, with Fort Monck- ton, the scene of so many torpedo experiments, in the distance. Next you have the Clarence Victualling- vard on the left hand, and the Dock- yard on the right, the Extension works appearing a scene of busy labour, with steam cranes and loco¬ motives traversing the mudlands in every direction, on what look very slight timber framings. The harbour now widens, and you have on 1. the c 2 20 Route 1.— Portsea. Priddy's Hard Magazines, with the villages of Hardway and Elson, a short distance N.; Forts Elson and Brochhurst are close behind. As the harbour widens, it becomes shallower, and is soon divided into navigable channels between mud banks; one of these, on W., leads up to Fareham, another nearly due N. to Port- chester, an excursion to which by water is very pleasant in summer. Before we reach the old Roman fortress, we pass on E. Tipnor, a fortified magazine, with barracks. Full in view extends on N. the long line of Portsdown , with its Forts, described in Kte. 4. The south, or seaward face of Portsea Island, is defended by 4 works. The most easterly of these is Fort Cumberland !, erected to pro¬ tect the entrance of Langston Har¬ bour, here only 300 yds. across, and intended originally to form part of a great scheme of defence, pre¬ pared by the Duke of Richmond when Master-General of the Ord¬ nance near the end of the last century. Westward of this, the old Fort Eastney has been replaced by a large fortified barrack for the Marine Artillery, with earthen batteries on either flank (notice the neatly kept garden allotments of the men, 40 acres in extent); and between this and Southsea Castle, Lumps Fort, which was washed away by the sea, has been replaced by a formidable sea-battery, mount¬ ing guns of very heavy calibre. Southsea Castle , at the extreme S.W. angle of Portsea Island, com¬ pletes the defences of this face. It has been almost reconstructed of late years, and now forms the keep to heavy batteries erected on its E. and W. flanks. The Castle was originally one of the forts erected by Henry VIII. along the southern shore of Eng¬ land. It was taken by the Parlia¬ mentary forces in 1642, and the town of Portsmouth capitulated next day. Evelyn was present oil this occasion. He writes, “Oct. 3, 1642. Went to Chichester, and next day to see the siege of Portsmouth ; the day of its being rendered up to Sir William Waller, which gave me an opportunity of taking my leave of Col. Goring, the Governor, now embarqueing for France.” The Gosport Forts begin beyond Haslar, and near the extreme point of the W. side of the harbour (known as Gilllciclcer Point). The first is Fort Monchton, con¬ nected with which by an earthwork and ditch is the casemated fort of Gillkicker , and the line of defence is continued as far as Browndown (nearly 2 m.), with occasional batteries, until it approaches the most southern of a line of 5 forts, which stretch across the low, marshy ground between the Solent and the Fareham Lake. Going northward, these are Forts Gomer, Grange, Rowner, Broclthurst, and Elson. They are about 3000 yds. W. of the Gosport lines, are armed with 3 tiers of guns, and are intended to co-operate with the Portsdown lines (Rte. 4), but the distance is by some authorities considered too great, and the question of adding another fort is from time to time discussed. To block the eastern passage to Spitliead, beside works on the Isle of Wight, four large Forts have been constructed on shoals in the anchorage itself. These are, Spit- bank, a short remove from Southsea Castle, and Ryde Sand, not far from the Pier, with Horse Sand (N.) and No Man's Land (S.) between them. The fixing of the foundations for these vast structures was a work of great difficulty. Though the forts differ in size, the mode of operation has been much the same in each. At a depth of 11 ft. in one case and in another of 20 ft. below low water, a foundation has been constructed of a ring of Route 1.— Portsea. 21 masonry about 50 ft. thick, inclosing an area of from 400 to 700 ft. in diameter, which is filled up with concrete lo 18 inches above high water. On this is built the fort itself, whicli on the Spit and Ryde Sands is of granite, faced with iron on the sea side; but in the other two, which are much larger, is wholly constructed of iron. This iron fort, 30 ft. high and 200 ft. in diameter, is mounted on a platform of masonry, 14 ft. G in. thick, faced with iron, which contains the bar¬ rack for the garrison, and has numerous heavy guns level with its top. It has on its top four turrets, intended to revolve, and each con¬ taining two monster guns. These sea forts are spoken of by foreign engineers and architects as marvels of constructive science, and they are regarded as so firmly built, that the outer wall might be breached with¬ out in any way affecting the safety of the iron citadel within. (7a) Portsea Island, on the W. shore of which the great naval arsenal of Portsmouth is placed, is a level tract, about 4 m. from N. to S., and 2| m. from E. to W. It lies between Portsmouth and Langston Harbours, which are con¬ nected on N. by a shallow arm of the sea called Portbridge Creek , or “ Lake,” the local name for creeks. Except at the S. extremity, which is sandy, it is very fertile, and every spot not occupied by roads and buildings is cultivated by market gardeners, for the supply of the adjacent towns. We enter the island from the London road by a handsome iron bridge, and pass by a defensible gateway through the Hilsea Lines (Rte. 4). The large Artillery Barracks are on 1. The village of Hilsea is soon succeeded by Buckland, Kingston, and Fratton, and 3 m. from Portbridge we reach Landport, the E. suburb of Portsea, formerly mainly occupied by the dockyard artificers, and then known as the Half-way Houses. At the angle with the Edinburgh road, which leads direct to Portsea and the Dockyard, is a pillar erected by the seamen and marines to the memory of Admiral Sir Charles Napier (d. 18G0). A short distance S. we have the Town Rly. Stat. on 1., and opposite to it the new Town Hall and Victoria Park, over which the rly. to the Harbour is carried on an embankment. Near Cumberland Fort, at the extreme S.E. corner of Portsea Island, about 2 m. from Southsea, is a steam-ferry across the mouth of Langston Harbour to Hayling Island (Rte. 2). («) Excursions from Portsmouth. Portsmouth is more limited in this respect than most great towns. The principal are— 1. To the Isle of Wight. The passage to Ryde, from the Harbour or Southsea Piers, takes about half-an-hour. 2. To Hayling Island (Rte. 2), by Rly., or walk across from Southsea to the ferry near Fort Cumberland. 3. To Portchester, by Rly. (Rte. 4), or by a pleasant boat excursion up the harbour {ante). 4. Stokes Bay (Rte. 4) is about 2 m. from Gosport, and can be reached thence by train, from one or other of the two stations. Lee-on- the-Solent (Rte. 4) has a steam tramway from Fort Brockhurst Stat., and two or three excursion steamers also run daily to it in summer from the Harbour and Southsea Piers. 5. Chichester {II.Bk. for Sussex ), can be reached iu about 35 minutes (see Rte. 2). 22 Route 2.— Emsworth . ROUTE 2. LONDON (VICTORJA OR LONDON BRIDGE STATS.)’ BY CHICHES¬ TER, TO HAVANT [HAYLING ISLAND] AND PORTSMOUTH. (l. b. and s. c. ely. 84J m.) j Return tickets from London to Portsmouth and the Isle of Wight are available for the return journey by the direct Portsmouth Illy. (Rte. 1), and those for the Isle of Weight via Stokes Bay also (Rte. 4). This route is 10 miles longer, but the time occupied is much the same. The Mid-Sussex line of the L. B. & S. 0. Rly. passes through some of the most beautiful parts of Surrey, at Leatherhead, Box Hill, Dorking, and Holmwood, where the great mass of Leith Hill is con¬ spicuous, rt. Sussex is entered about 4 m. before reaching Horsham, where the fine Ch. is seen close to the Rly., rt., beyond the Stat. 17 m. further, Amberley Castle is close on 1.; and for the next few miles there is a fine view of the castled steep of Arundel, towering over the level fields by the Arun. At Ford, the Junct. for Little- hampton, which is just visible, this line joins that from Brighton to Portsmouth. At Chichester there is a fine view of the Cathedral, rt., beyond the Stat.; and from the next Stat., Bosham, its most interest¬ ing Church, which is represented in the Bayeux tapestry, can be seen, 1 m. 1. (See II.Bk. for Sussex.) For 4 m. further, the tourist has generally in view the wide but shallow expanse of Chichester Har¬ bour, a sight pleasant or the reverse according to the state of the tide. The work of reclamation by the “mudmen,” as they are locally termed, has caused Thorney Island to be connected with the mainland by an embankment. Crossing the little border stream of the Ems, we enter Hampshire, and reach at 74 m., Emsworth. Stat. The town, until 1840 a chapelry of Warbling- ton (post), is a thriving little place, at the head of the creek by which the Ems reaches Chichester Har¬ bour. Though the navigation is difficult, it has a considerable trade in coal and timber, and builds many small vessels ; but its chief business is the oyster fishery. The Ch. is of the debased style prevalent in 1840, but the chancel has been rebuilt by Sir A. W. Blomfield. Westbourne, 1 m. N. (in Sussex), has a Trans.-Norm. and E. E. Ch. with a good Perp. tower. It contains many monuments, and possesses a 15th-cent. chalice. 1 m. W. of Emsworth (or about the same E. from Havant) is Warb- lington, the ancient Ch. of which (St. Thomas of Canterbury) will repay a visit. It was, says tradi¬ tion, built by “ two maiden ladies,” the last representatives of the ancient family of Warblington. It has a central tower, partly of Norm, work, but no transepts. The clustered columns (early Perp.) on the S. side of the nave are very graceful. In the chapel terminat¬ ing the S. aisle is an altar-tomb, with an effigy said to represent one of the foundresses : and a stone coffiiD with a second effigy was discovered many years since in a niche outside the wall of the N. aisle. Many stone coffins which have been found here at different times are preserved in the Ch.; and some of the original flooring tiles remain in the chancel, which has been well restored. The ruins of the Castle, a single tower, date from the reign of Henry VII., though they perhaps occupy 23 Monte 2 .'—Hayling Island . the site of an older fortress. It seems to have been a quadrangular building, including a court, and surrounded by a deep moat. At the N. angle there are traces of a kind of outwork, inclosed by a bank and ditch. The castle was for some time the residence of the unfortunate Countess of Salisbury (mother of Reginald Pole), who was examined here by Lord Southampton in November, 1538. It being thought well that she should remain under surveil¬ lance, she was removed to South¬ ampton’s own house at Cowdray. "Surely,” he wrote, "there hath not been seen or heard of a woman so earnest, so manlike in counte- ; nance, so fierce in gesture as in words.” In this castle was born Henry Cotton, Queen Elizabeth’s Bp. of Salisbury, whose father, Sir Richard Cotton, was comptroller of the household to Henry VIII. Elizabeth when very young had been the bishop’s godmother, and on advancing him to the see of Salisbury she remarked, says Fuller, " that formerly she had blessed many of her godsons, but never before had she a godson that should bless her. ” 76 m., Havant Junction (Ete. 1) for Hayling Island (post ) and Cos¬ ham (Ete. 4). HAYLING ISLAND. [From Havant a Branch Line of 4^ m. runs, with Stats, at Langston and North Hayling, to South Hay¬ ling, a rising watering-place in Hayling Island. The rly. was constructed in 1867. It was originally intended to be carried on an embankment in ad¬ vance of the W. side of the island, whereby 1000 acres of land would be reclaimed, and the depth of water in Langston Harbour increased; also to construct docks at the Sinah Lake, and to run steamers from Hayling beach to the Isle of Wight; but the scheme did not meet suf¬ ficient support, and the rly. alone has been completed. The journey of 20 min., command¬ ing a wide sea view (on rt.) nearly all the way, is pleasant enough. But the tourist who is not pressed for time will do better to walk or drive from Havant Stat. Walking due S., and leaving the Ch. on W., a shady lane leads in 1 m. to the primitive fishing village of Langston, where the visitor may indulge in cockles, a speciality of the district. Next, across a timber swing-bridge of 860 ft. long, Hayling Island (4 m. long by 2 m. broad) is entered. The coun¬ try is quite level and well culti¬ vated, with fine timber. The island belonged to King Harold, and was by William given to the great Benedictine Abbey of Jumieges, who established a cell therein. It was, on the suppression of alien priories, granted to the Carthusians of Sheen (Richmond), and afterwards was exchanged by them for other lands with the colle¬ giate church of Arundel. At the Dissolution it was granted to the Duke of Norfolk, and it remained the property of the Howards until 1825, when it was sold to Mr. Pad- wick, whose family still possess a large part of it. The small scattered village of North Hayling has an E. E. Ch. (St. Peter), restored in 1881, which is worth a visit. Some distance S.E., on the sea shore, and almost insulated by “ rytlies is a circular intrenchment inclosing about 10 acres, called Tunorbury, possibly commemora¬ tive of the Saxon deity Thunor, traces of whom are not very numer¬ ous in England. On the S. side of it stretches a broad sheet of water called My Lord’s Pond, at the S.E. entrance of which are the Salterns, the only remaining ones of several 24 Route 3. Yciteley. mentioned in Domesday as belong¬ ing to the Abbey of Jumieges. Returning to the central part of the island we reach, at 3| m. from Havant, South Hay ling Ch. (St. Mary the Virgin), a very interest¬ ing building. It is E. E., with the exception of some Trans.-Norm, work at the E. end, and the chancel arch, which is early Dec. The E. window is a fine one, of 5 lancets, and the side windows still have some fragments of painted glass; there is also a double piscina in the chancel, and another in the S. aisle. The Norm, font was dredged up at the Church Rocks, and is conjec¬ tured to have belonged to the earlier Ch. In the ch.-yd. is a noble yew, 31 ft. in circumference, and spread¬ ing its branches over a space of more than 60 ft. in diameter. The Manor House (Misses Pad- wick) is believed to occupy a part of the site of the Priory; an ancient dove-cot remains in the grounds, which are of large extent, with many noble trees. The Manor-barn also is noticeable for its great size, and is said to have been built from a cargo of oak wrecked on the shore. Hence several well-wooded lanes lead down to the beach, which offers a fine expanse of firm sand, nearly 4 miles in extent, and commands an excellent view of Spithead, the Sea Forts, and the Isle of Wight. The air is very mild and pure. Hayling also has the attraction of a Golf Club, the links being on the beach common. The Stat. is in West Town, f m. from the beach. Southsea may be reached by a pleasant walk of 4 m. along the beach W., to the ferry across the mouth of Langston Harbour to Fort Cumberland.] ROUTE 3. LONDON TO GOSPORT AND PORTS¬ MOUTH, BY ROAD, THROUGH ALTON AND FAREHAM. This road traverses the eastern half of the county from end to end. It v r as once a famous coach-road, and having for the most part a good surface is now much used by cyclists. There is one remarkable cluster of villages in the Meon valley, but otherwise the distances between the places are unusually long. The route from London (Hyde Park Corner) is through Hounslow, Staines, and Bagshot. At the Jolly Farmer (27£ m.) the shortest road to Alton, by m., through Aldershot and Farnliam, diverges on 1.. but the road through Hartley Bow has a better surface. It enters Hants at (30f m.) Blackwater Stat., on the S. E. Rly. from Reading to Aldershot and Redhill, before which, at York Town, rt., is Sandhurst , the Royal Military College. Yateley, 2^ m. from Blackwater, has a Trans.-Norm. Church; the aisle is 14th cent., the tower about 1500. It has several late brasses : Wm. Lawerd, 1517; Wm. Rygg, 1532; Elizabeth Smythe, 1578 ; a civilian, c. 1590; and an inscription to Joan Hewlot. There are traces of a Hermit’s cell adjoining the Ch. One of the 8 bells is dedicated to St. Katharine. Monteagle Farm, in the parish, is said to have been the country house of Lord Monteagle, who received the anonymous letter which led to the disclosure of the Gunpowder Plot. Hartford Bridge Flats, farther on, is so good a level, that it used to be a trial place for the speed of coaches. Route 3.— Bramshill. 25 36^ rm, Hartley Row, a small town, pleasantly surrounded by pine-woods, which has grown into favour as a summer resort from its healthy situation. It has a modem Cl). The old parish Ch. of Hartley Wintney, picturesque but of no particular interest, £ m. S., is used as a mortuary chapel. It has re¬ mains of a rood-loft. There was a small Cistercian nunnery here, of which few traces remain. At Mattingley, 2 m. W., is an interesting old Perp. chapel, now made a parish Ch. [About 2 m. N. of Hartley Row is *Bramshill (Sir Anthony Cope, Bart.), one of the most striking Jaco¬ bean mansions in England, although only a portion (the centre) of the ori¬ ginal plan remains. It was built by the 11th Lord Zouche, in the reign of James I., and was, it is said, in¬ tended to have been the residence of Henry Prince of Wales, whose death prevented its completion. The Queen visited Bramshill from Stratfieldsaye in 1817. The house stands high and commands good views: “ looking out far and wide over the rich lowland from its eyrie of dark pines.” — Kingsley. Its great charm lies in the air of un¬ profaned antiquity which surrounds it. There are no modern additions; but broad balustraded terraces, quaint gardens, and venerable oaks and yew-trees whose branches over¬ shadow the walks. The wings were of brick, with stone dressings: the centre is entirely of stone, and pro¬ fusely decorated witli Renaissance ornaments. The parapets of open work are especially good. Above the central pediment is the “ Ich dien ” crest of the Prince of Wales. The porch and the arcades covering the ends of the terrace are unusual and very picturesque. The interior has been little changed, and con¬ tains some good old tapestry, dated 1450, ancient furniture, and pic¬ tures, the last, however, of no great importance as works of art. Re¬ mark, in the hall, the picture of “ a meet ” at Bramshill, which contains portraits of Sir John Cope and his neighbours. During some repairs a few years since a letter of Oliver Cromwell’s was found behind the wainscot. The house is not usually shown to visitors, and permission to view can only he obtained by ivriting. It was in this park, during the occupation of Bramshill by its builder, Lord Zouche, that Abbot, Arclibp. of Canterbury, accidentally killed a keeper, Peter Hawkins, whilst shooting at deer with a cross-bow (1621). He was, says Fuller, “ much humbled ” thereby, and was compelled to abstain for some time from all episcopal functions, retiring first to Guild¬ ford and then to Ford in Kent (see H.Bk. for Surrey — Guildford). For the rest of his life the arclibp. kept a monthly fast on Tuesday, the day on which the accident hap¬ pened. The Scotch firs in the park (600 acres) are among the oldest and finest in England: “ James the First’s gnarled giants up in Brams¬ hill Park, the only place in England where a painter can learn what Scotch firs are.”— Kingsley. It is held traditionally that the, Scotch fir was first introduced into England by James I. at Bramshill. Brams¬ hill is in the parish of Eversley. Adjoining is the Rectory, long the residence (1844-75) of the Rev. Charles Kingsley, who is buried in the ch.-yd. In the Church, which is mostly of brick, with a higli- pinnacled tower, is an inlaid sepul¬ chral brass cross of singular design, in memory of Richard Pendilton (d. 1502), in the service of Giles, Lord Daubeney. Notice also the punning epitaph, by himself, of Alexander Ross, The Cheguen Inn at Ever- 26 Route 3 .— Odiham. sley lias some well carved 15tli- cent. beams. There is some pleasant country beyond Bramshill on the Berkshire border. The Blackwater (so named from the tinge given to it by the peat moors through which it passes) rises near Farnham, and forms the boundary first between Hampshire and Surrey, and then between Hampshire and Berks, until about 2 m. N. of Bramshill it turns off to join the Loddon. Stratfield Saye (distance 6 m. N.W.) may be reached from Winch- field Stat., but is much nearer (34 m.) to Mortimer Stat., between Basingstoke and Reading (Rte. 7).] 38£ m., Winchfield Stat., on the main line of the L. & S. W. Rly. Winchfield Church (see Rte. 6), on 1. beyond the Stat., is interesting. 404 m., Odiham. This small market town, beyond the park S.W., lies in a gently undulating country, among the remains of the woodland (the name = ivood ham) with which it was formerly covered. The kings of Wessex had a royal “ ville ” at Odiham ; and a Castle was built soon after the Conquest, which had a somewhat eventful history. It was besieged at the close of John’s reign, A.D. 1216, by the Dauphin Louis of France, and held out for 15 days, when its little garrison of 13 was compelled to capitulate. Simon de Montfort, to whose wife thejcastle was afterwards granted, maintained here a large hunting establishment of dogs (canes leporarii, harriers) and men ; and his countess made it her place of retirement for some months during the contest between her brother Henry III. and the barons. Among the expenses entered in her household book (parts of whicli have been preserved) are two visits from “ the barber of Reading ” in order to bleed her daughter Eleanor (see Blaauw's Barons’ War). Hither Earl Simon sent hjs young royal prisoners, Prince Edward and his cousin Henry of Germany, March 17, 1265, for safe custody ; and here, on April 1, he took leave of his coun¬ tess, whom he was destined never to see again. Two months later Eleanor fled from Odiham Castle by night, under the guidance of her “parker” Dobbe, and made her way to Portchester Castle, of which her son Simon was constable. Edward I. granted Odiham Castle to his 2nd wife, Margaret of France ; and it formed part of the dower of Margaret of Anjou. It was one of the prisons of David king of Scot¬ land (son of Robert Bruce), who was taken at the battle of Neville’s Cross in 1346, and detained for 11 years in England. Queen Elizabeth visited the castle more than once in her progresses. It was granted by James I. to Lord Zouche, from whose descendant it passed by pur¬ chase to the Mildmays. Tlio Ch., originally E. E., but disfigured with stucco, contains Dec. and Perp. portions. There are some interesting Brasses, in¬ cluding a civilian, c. 1480, two ladies with families, a knight, c. 1540, and one to a six-weeks-old infant, Margaret Pye, 1636, in swaddling-clothes and plaited bib. The carved pulpit is Perp.. The font, circular, of the 14th centy., is extremely interesting. The inscription round it is ciuxilium meum a domino qui fecit celum et terram (Ps. cxxi. 2). On the upper rim is an oblong projec¬ tion with ‘holes in it. This, it is now proved, was for letting the water after baptism by affusion fall on the floor. Examples are very rare in England (there is one at Youlgreave, Derbyshire, which is E. E.), but are commoner in France, especially in Brittany (see Hants Field Club Papers, i. 84). The Grammar School, founded in the reign of William III., numbers two bishops among its scholars, Huntingford of Hereford, and Houte 3 .—- Chawton . 27 Burgess of Salisbury, the last a native of Odiham. A more famous native was William Lilly, the gram¬ marian, the friend of Erasmus and Sir Thomas More, who was born here in 1466. The stocks and whipping-post are still preserved in the town. French¬ man'’s Oak , on the Winchfield road, marks the bounds of the French prisoners in the Castle, many of whom are buried in the ch.-yd. At the George Hotel is a tine Jacobean panelled fireplace. Odiham Castle is 1 m. N.W. of the town, in the hamlet of North Warn- borough, on the banks of the Basingstoke Canal. The remains consist merely of a 14tli-centy. octagonal tower, either the Keep or a Gateway Tower. 1^ m. from the Castle, across the Canal, which here passes through a long tunnel, is the Ch. of Grey well, or Grewell, a flint building, origi¬ nally E. E., but much restored. It has a wooden tower and fine rood- loft. Dogmersfield Park (Sir H. St. John Mildmay) is 1 m. from Odiham, N.E. Dogmersfield once belonged to the see of Canterbury, and the archbishops had a palace here, the foundations of which have been traced. At the Reformation it passed into the hands of Wriothe- sley, Earl of Southampton, and after many changes was purchased by Ellis Mewe, Esq., who took the name of St. John. His grandson assumed that of Mildmay in 1790. The park, which is nearly encircled by the Basingstoke Canal, is well wooded, and varied with two fine sheets of water, and from the house some good distant views are com¬ manded. In the hall is a full- length of Prince Rupert, by Sir Peter Lely; the drawing-room contains some good Italian pictures: and in the dining-room are 4 full-length portraits presented by Charles I. to an ancestor" of Lady Mildmay— Gustavus Adolphus, James I., Yil- liers, Duke of Buckingham, and Horace Yere, Lord Tilbury. There is also a remarkable picture of Sir Henry Mildmay, the regicide, taken after his death. In the library is a very beautiful Italian vase, of sculp¬ tured marble. Outside the park, S., is a broad tract of common. A Ch. (in the park), which was built 1806, is now disused ; its place is supplied by a handsomer one, erected on the E. side of the park in 1843. 43 in., South Warnborough was anciently known as Subberic or South Burgh. The Ch. has a fine Norm, doorway, and some interest¬ ing monuments of the White family, including Sir Thomas Whyte, 1566, a brass to John White, 1512, and one of Elizabeth (Whyte) Lady Paulett. E. of this is Long Sutton, but the Ch. is not of any interest. 48| m. (47J by way of Aldershot and Farnham), Alton , on the branch line via Farnham, to Winchester. For account of Alton, see Rte. 5. Selborne (Rte. 5) is to the 1. of this road. Beyond Alton the mileage given in this route is from London by way of Aldershot. 48£ m., Chawton, where the great novelist Jane Austen lived. She was born at Steventon (Rte. 6). The Ch. was burnt down, except the chancel, in 1871, and has been re¬ built by Sir A. IF. Blomfield. It contains some monuments of the Knight family, including a good 17th-centy. monument, with recum¬ bent effigy, for Sir Richard Knight (d. 1679), of Chawton Park (M. G. Knight, Esq.), the woods of which are seen rt. beyond the village. The house is Elizabethan, but has been a good deal added to. 28 jRoute 3 .—East Tisted. 50 m., Lower Farringdon. Far¬ ringdon Ch ., £ m. E., is an E. E. building. Gilbert White was curate of it, 1761-1785. 51 m., a road turns off W. to Sel- borne (Rte. 5), which passes near the secluded village of Newton Valence, where there is an E. E. Oh. 52 m., East Tisted, with Bother- field Parle (Lady Mary Scott) stretching along rt. of the road. It long belonged to the Morton family. The house was built about 1810, and is very mixed in styles. The Church (almost rebuilt 1848) con¬ tains a monument to Sir John Norton (d. 1686), the well-known Parliamentarian. [Between East Tisted and Peters¬ field or Liss (Rte. 1) is some re¬ markable scenery worth exploring. To Hawkley by way of Colmer and Prior’s Dean (the prettiest road) is about 5 m. Colmer (or Colemore), 1£ in., has an interesting little Trans.-Norm. and E. E. Ch., which was formerly cruciform, but has lost its S. transept. It has an oak chancel-screen and Norm. font. Prior’s Dean Ch. (3 m.) is also interesting Norm, and E. E. It has, moreover, some 16th-centy. monuments for the families of Tich- borne and Compton, including a brass, 1605. In the ch.-yd. is an enormous yew. From here begins the ascent of Hawkley Hanger, upon the top of which the tourist will emerge unexpectedly from a high-banked lane, commanding a noble view. “The lane,” says Cobbett, in the account of his day’s journey from Hambledon across the Hampshire hills to Thursley in Surrey, ‘ ‘ had a little turn toward the end, so that out we came, all in a moment, at the very edge of the Hanger. And never in all my life was I so surprised and so delighted. I pulled up my horse, and sat and looked; and it was like looking from the top of a castle down into the [sea, except that the valley was land and not water. I looked at my servant to see what effect this unexpected sight had upon him ; his surprise was as great as mine, though he had been bred among the N. Hampshire hills. Those who had so strenuously dwelt on the dirt and dangers of this route had said not a word about the beauties, the matchless beauties of the scenery. From the summit I looked down upon the villages of Hawkley, Greatham, Selborne, and some others.” Gilbert White (Letter XLV. to Barrington) gives a very interesting account of a great landslip which occurred here in March, 1774, when “ a considerable part of the great woody hanger at Hawkley was torn from its place and fell down, leaving a high freestone cliff naked and bare, and resembling the steep side of a chalk-pit.” “About 50 acres of land suffered from this violent convulsion.”] From East Tisted to West Meon there is a stretch of 6J m. without any village. At Hedge Corner (53| m.) a good road leads (7 m.) to Petersfield. About half-way the road enters upon one of the most beautiful miniature mountain passes to be seen in the S. of England, known as Stoner Hill. The zigzag road is skilfully engineered through a wooded ravine. Ashford Lodge (Mrs. Hawker) seems almost under the feet of the traveller. After descending the hill, the tourist should enter the park by the lodge to view the pass from below before proceeding on his way to Petersfield. 54J in., a road turns off W. to West Tisted (Rte. 5). On the E. are the grounds of Basing Park (W. Nicholson, Esq.), not to be confused with Basing near Basingstoke. S. 29 Route 3 .— West Meon. of the park, turning at 55J in., is the noble modern Cli. of Privett, built at a cost of 22.000Z. by W. Nicholson, Esq., from the designs of Sir A. W. Blomfield. It has a tine tower and spire, 160 ft. high, with 8 bells, and is richly lifted throughout. 58£ m., West Meon. Here the road begins to descend the valley of the Titchfield river. The Church was rebuilt in 1846, by the late Archdeacon Bailey. The stained glass, carvings, &c., are worth notice. The old font of this Ch. is now in St. Edmund’s, Lombard Street, London. The tourist here finds himself in the ancient country of the Meonware, whose name is preserved in those of E. and W. Meon, and Meon Stoke. The province of the Meonware, to¬ gether with the Isle of Wight, was, according to Bede, bestowed by Wulfhere of Mercia upon Edilwalch, first Christian King of the South Saxons, about 68i. (H. E., iv. 13.) Whether the Meonware themselves were of Jutish kin, as Bede seems to imply ( H . E., iv. 16), when describing the course of the Hamble river, which flows through part of their district; or whether, as has been suggested, they were the remains of a Romanised British tribe, is dis¬ puted. Between W. and E. Meon, S., is Westbury Park (H. Le Roy-Lewis, Esq.), where the lovely Cephalan- thera grandiflora, a kind of orchid, with large cream-coloured flowers, abounds in the month of June. In the park is the ruined Chapel of St. Nicholas, apparently of early Dec. date, which contains a plain circular font, and a slab of a knight, pro¬ bably of the Le Ewer family, 14th centy. The Church of *East Meon, about 3 m. S.E. from West Meon, should not be left unvisited. It is an inte¬ resting restored Norm, and E. E. structure, cruciform, with a central tower. The spire is a later addition. The tower and doorways are un¬ altered ; but one only of the original small windows remains, at the N.W. angle of the nave. The S. aisles of nave and chancel are E. E. The manor, at the Domesday survey, belonged to the see of Winchester; and the Ch. is supposed to have been built by Bp. Walkelin, founder of the Norm, portion of Winchester Cathedral, and cousin to the Con¬ queror. Remark a straight-sided arch in the S. transept, and the font , of black marble, very interest¬ ing and curious. On the sides are carved the expulsion of Adam and Eve. from Paradise, with their sub¬ sequent instruction in the arts of husbandry and spinning. The carving so strongly resembles that on the better-known font in Win¬ chester cathedral as to make it highly probable that it is the work of the same sculptor. (Comp, also the font in St. Michael’s Church, Southampton, Rte. 6, and at St. Mary Bourne, Rte. 8.) The pulpit is Perp. and of stone. The Sanctus bell, which used to be hung in the S.W. window of the tower, was stolen at the restoration of the Ch. in 1870. In the pavement of the S. transept may be seen the stone with the curious inscription “ Amens Plenty,” which continues to exercise the ingenuity of archreologists to discover its meaning. S. of the Ch. stands “ Court House” where the Bishop of Win¬ chester’s courts were held. The hall, used as a wood-house, retains its original roof and square-headed transomed windows. There are some corbel heads which deserve notice. The village of East Meon lies in a long valley among the chalk hills that here sweep round from Peters- field. 30 Route 3 .— After West Meon we come to a singular cluster of interesting vil¬ lages. They are at present very remote from railways, but a line from Fareham to Alton is rpro¬ jected. 60 m., Warnford, where the arch¬ aeologist should visit the *Church, and the remains of the Manor-house of the St. Johns, popularly called “King John’s House.” These are in Warnford Park (W. Woods, Esq.), and are late Norm., c. 1200. The ruins are not extensive, but are sufficient to show that the hall was divided by two rows of pillars, the bases and capitals of which remain. Two of the pillars themselves are still standing, of unusual height and very curious. The walls are built of flints set in “ grout,” with semi¬ circular windows and doors. This house, which w T as the old manor- house of Warnford, and is very inte¬ resting as a relic of early domestic architecture, was no doubt built by Adam de Port, ancestor of the St. Johns, lords of Basing, and himself descended from Hugh de Port, who held this manor at the Domesday survey. Adam de Port was out¬ lawed for treason by Henry II., but was restored. William, son of Adam de Port, took the name of St. John from his mother, heiress of Roger de St. John. The Church, which closely adjoins the ruins, was founded by Wilfrid of York, who preached throughout this district after his shipwreck on the Sussex coast, about 665 (II.Bk. for Sussex — Selsey), and was restored by Adam de Port, as appears from two remarkable inscriptions, one in the S. wall, within the porch, the other in the N. wall. They run thus. (N. wall.) “ Adam hie de Portu, solis beuedicat ab ortu Gens cruce signata, per quern sum sic renovata.” Warnford. (S. porch .) “ Fratres, orate, prece Vestra sauctilicate Templi factores, seniores et juniores. Wilfrid fuudavit, bonus Adam sic reno- vavit.” The tower (Norm., with the origi¬ nal circular windows, two in each face) is the earliest existing portion. The chancel arch is Trans.-Norm., the rest E. E. In the S. wall is either a consecration-stone or a sun¬ dial, with lines radiating from the centre, like that at Corhampton (post). A monument for the family of Neale, 1610, should be noticed. Warnford Park , a seat of Lord Clan- ricarde till 1824, was originally Eli¬ zabethan, but has been Thoroughly modernised. Beyond Warnford, rt., is Beacon Hill , one of the loftiest in the country (660 ft.). A fine view of the Isle of Wight is commanded from it; with prospects extending rt. over the New Forest into Dorset¬ shire, and 1. over much of the Weald of Sussex. Crossing the river Meon, which, rising in the valley of E. Meon, falls into the sea just outside the mouth of the Southampton Water (the fishing is very good, but strictly preserved), we reach at 61J m. the three closely adjoining villages of Exton, Corhampton, and Meon Stoke. Exton Ch., on rt., was al¬ most rebuilt in 1847, and contains little of antiquity but a piscina in the chancel, the axis of which deflects considerably from the nave. There is a tablet with a chrono¬ gram to James Young, Dean of Winchester. ^Corhampton Ch., on the contrary, is singularly well preserved, and has long been known to archaeo¬ logists as a good example of the primitive Romanesque architecture. Neither Ch. nor manor, however, is mentioned in Domesday. Its dedication is unknown. On the exterior the Ch. is stone-ribbed, like Worth and Barnack. The ribs 31 Dtoute 3 .—Dr oxford. project about 2 in. from the wall. The rude corbels on the S. side, and another on the N. in the centre of a ribbed archway, should be noticed. In the S. wall is a square stone, with a trefoil-like ornament at the angles, engraved with a circle inclosing lines radiating from a central hole. It was probably a sun¬ dial. (Comp, one at Bishopstone, Sussex, and at St. Michael’s, Win¬ chester.) The bells used to hang in two square-headed openings in the gable wall, but have been moved to a small wooden turret on the roof. The chancel arch is depressed and segmental. In the chancel is The well-known stone chair, which for¬ merly occupied part of the altar steps, but has now been placed within the rails. The font is a singularly small cylinder, with a ring of cable moulding. In the cb.-yd. is a very fine yew-tree, believed to be 1000 years old. The original altar-slab, marked by its crosses, which long formed part of the chancel pavement, is now placed under the altar-table. From Corhampton a road branches off rt. to (4 m.) Bishop’s Waltham (Rte. 4). The Church of Meon Stoke, which forms practically one village with Corhampton and Exton, £ m. E., deserves a visit. It is princi¬ pally Dec., with some Norm, and E. E. portions. The nave, of 4 bays, has alternate round and octagon piers, with foliated circles over the arches. By the S. door is a stoup. A panel of Flemish carving, Jacob wrestling with the angel, is let into the pulpit. The font, of black basalt, is late Norm., and though much mutilated is interesting. The E. part of the chancel has been assigned to William of Wykeham, whose “ rose ” occurs at the inter¬ sections of the canopied niches, on either side of the E. window. In the chancel are 2 coffins of Purbeck marble, with the processional cross on them. There exists in the ch.- yd., about 3 ft. below the surface, a curious deposit or petrifaction, specimens of which arc kept in the Oh. The water of the brook near at hand encrusts with a coarse accretion the pebbles and edges of brickwork in contact with it. In a meadow on the bank of this stream, near the old Rectory, grows one of the noblest willow-trees that ever flourished by the watercourses, unfortunately much damaged by a hurricane in 1886. The girth is 23 ft. Beyond Meon Stoke, 1| m. E. of the road, is seen Old Winchester Hill , a lofty mass of chalk, crested with an earthwork which, it has been conjectured, was the “ Roman sum¬ mer camp ” for the troops stationed within the country afterwards in¬ habited by the Meonware. That it was at least occupied during the Roman period is proved by the discovery of a terra-cotta lamp within the camp (now preserved in the Museum at Winchester), as well as by that of a silver denarius of Antoninus marked LEG. vin., and with the standards erect, besides fragments of pottery found in neigh¬ bouring barrows. The tradition which has named the hill, and which asserts that it was the original site of the city of Winchester, is perhaps a proof of its former importance. On this hill Charles II. is said to have been met by Col. 'Wyndham with greyhounds; and, under the show of coursing, to have passed a day just before he escaped from Shoreham. 63^ in., Droxford ( Drohinsford ), a large village of town-like character. The Ch. is interesting. It has two Norm, doorways, of which the S. is richer, with the pelleted cable moulding, and a Norm, chancel arch. The nave arcades are on 32 Route 3 .— Hambledon. heavy square piers, and a similar arch opens from the chancel to its N. chapel. In this is a large effigy of a woman, found about 1820 in an adjoining field, the supposed site of a Priory (late 12th cent.?); she holds a heart-shaped locket, a sign of widowhood. There are remains of Norm, arches in the chancel wall. The canopied niches at the E. end of the S. aisle resemble those of Meon Stoke, and also have Wyke- ham’s rose. Bp. Wykeham left a chalice and cope to this Ch. Some old works of divinity belonging to the Ch. are preserved at the Rectory. On 1. of the road, 1 m. from Drox- ford, is seen the handsome tower of *Soberton Ch., which is of con¬ siderable interest. This tower is very late Perp. (c. 1525), but of very good work in chequered flint. On the W. front are a woman with a pail and a man with a key, repre¬ senting, according to tradition, a butler and maid of the Anson family (ancestors of Lord Anson, the famous circumnavigator), who left money for building the tower. It has been appropriately restored by a special subscription from domestic servants in Hampshire. Three arches within form the base into a sort of narthex. The nave arcade N. is Trans.-Norm., with a square and a circular pier ; the S. is later. The chancel has early Dec. windows and a cinque- foiled piscina. In the N. aisle is a handsome monument to Thomas Lewis, 1736, by Sclieemahers. The arms of Cardinal Beaufort appear in some old glass in the low-side window. Bp. Curie, of Winchester, 1617, is buried in this Ch. In the S. transept, which forms a separate chapel, variously called the Curie or the Minchin chapel, is a curious stone bracket of Dec. date, carved with three heads. Over it is some interesting arcading in the E. wall, injured by a monument to Sir Walter Curl, 1678. In the splays of the windows are remains of paintings in fair preservation. A large squint opens to the chancel, and in the N.E. corner is a square piscina with shelf. A large black marble monument here formerly had brasses. In the chapel is a huge sandstone coffin found in a field ; it contained a skeleton encased in cement. The Ch. owns a valuable set of altar vessels, given in 1615, and a linen altar-cloth of the same date, on which is worked the parable of the Good Samaritan. In the British Museum are 2 signet rings of gold, which, with some 250 silver coins of Edward the Confessor, Harold, and William the Conqueror, were found in an earthen vessel at Soberton. A massive Roman stone coffin, now in the Ch., was found here in 1880. 3 m. S.E., in a valley among low hills, is the straggling and remote village of Hambledon, 8 m. from any stat. ; Bishop’s Waltham, Havant, and Cosham being the nearest. The “Hambledon Hunt,” which has since gained much celebrity in the annals of sport, was established in 1800 ; the open down country, which stretches away from here towards Petersfield, affording excellent rid¬ ing ground. Broad halfpenny Down , which adjoins the village, was long the grand cricketing centre for Hants, Surrey, and Sussex, and many celebrated matches have been played on its smooth green turf. Indeed, tradition claims the inven¬ tion of cricket for this place. Charles II., on his way from Somerset to Shoreham, whence he escaped to Fecamp, passed the night of October 13, 1641, at Hambledon, at the house of a brother-in-law of Colonel Gunter (at that time the king’s guide). The master of the house, ‘ ‘ who had been all day long playing the good fellow at an alehouse in the town,” came in at supper, and declared the RStoruliauy- itoue.luun " •••' > Kno* It-IliL iushqbs inr.niAM Chalton, Do tvn Micllinoton rapper b II I 111 1/1 Of'I' ClArLflehl Dnadej l60 /S Sober ton r ASwtuimore V v t *%?/ /.< Bassett, Windmill-, Bo HTJ Qakliimls Bo. Ghaltc trove SWAYTHLING ST; e Croft f (Buy o l 37 sy " uumu K - jkTixnniinf WhitrAiri II Ri/'U \, ' // jhtn V 'llllpound ' Q 'hirt/f! Stivet ‘JRyhJ’L-Ul T> ■* . i\>rbiuoo R°/, \K‘PC Oldpiyotih fffihupiMinoi' y ; t'XZ s ~South <\V UL IpW r d', 'Wnul'paJ. /■ Himtboarn, v< wwikiWXfF • /\ , T V* fCM \ I -> Fithill "Curdridge CommonS JfiULem ^Shid field, Jk-Hp- B titles $%07'nc&in> > worth E* .BOTLEY STA ^StCurdridi* 'EaTl Court Vi * ulai >uj ton Thomjhll CrSErj I Herijrieiui II J I SB am Gi'een r, , Jl 4 Woo (Dun use > Sling ,jyNx - rjirn \*~S 'd -• ? 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"/Hamit ‘Froeh CFtmley Reacon, C.GSta [ji i auli ct Heath Stonvtbrd, P.miC / BolbwhH™ A K '’Jieaidieulo AMett / T ^ . > - y '', l RoOkont I". u ~ i - i =£==> - ^ii’uahtttnrn Ihuih.i I oninton. OumvooJ GataroodFT' Lanyley ' ^ Stanswood 1 laolehwst Stansw Bay \u -neh ill Storu'F 33 Uouie 3 .— WicJchdtn. king looked like “some round-headed rogue’s son,” but was soon appeased. Afterwards, “in the time of enter¬ taining his guests, he did by chance let fall an oath ; for which Mr. Jackson” (the name by which the king went) “ took occasion modestly to reprove him .—Boscobel Tracts. The house at that time belonged to one of the Symonds family; it is now used as a gardener’s cottage. French officers on parole were in¬ terned at Hambledon during the war. The Church of Hambledon is a fine one. It is mostly E. E., but has 4 Norm, arches. 68| m., Wickham, a large and picturesque red-tiled village, lies chiefly on the rt., but the Church is on the main road. It is of flint, with shingled broach spire, and has a long S. transept of brick. The W. door is Norm., the long aisleless nave has late Dec. windows. The N. transept has 4 lancets and an early Perp. window. The Ch. was much restored and altered in 1862. In a chapel opening out E. from the transept is a line monument of Sir William Uvedale and wife, 1615, recumbent on side, one above the other, children kneeling below. There is also a monument of Wm. Uvedale, 1569, and an old chest with good ironwork. The manor- house of the Uvedales stood near the Ch. The parish, however, de¬ rives its principal interest from having been the birthplace (1324) of William of Wykeham, the famous Bp. of Winchester, “ whose bene¬ faction to learning is not to be paralleled by any English subject, in all particulars.”— Fuller. His colleges at Winchester and Oxford, and the glories of his own cathedral, sufficiently bear out Ful¬ ler’s eulogy. His original position and that of his parents are unknown ; nor have any particulars of his early life been ascertained before his pre- [ Hants.~\ sentation, at the age of 23, to Ed¬ ward III., by Sir Nicholas Uvedale, Governor of Winchester Castle. Wykeham’s only advantages at his time were, his skill in architecture (however that may have been proved), and the “courtly attribute of a comely person.” He was made surveyor of the new buildings at Windsor Castle, including the Round Tower and the Winchester Tower, on the latter of which is the inscription Hoc fecit Wykeham. He only assumed the tonsure at the age of 33, and in five years was Bp. of Winchester and Lord High Chancellor. His monument is in a chantry in his cathedral. At Wickham resided Lutterloh, the German spy of Thackeray’s un¬ finished ‘Denis Duval,’ who fur¬ nished the French court with secret intelligence of the English navy. He ' ‘ kept a pack of hounds, and was considered a good companion, and was well received by the gentle¬ men of the neighbourhood.”— Ann. Reg. 1781. There is a flour-mill at Wickham called Chesapeake Mill, because it was originally built from the timbers of the 4 Chesapeake,’ taken by the 4 Shannon ’ in 1813. On 1. of the road is the park of Booksbury (J. Carpenter - Gamier, Esq.). Before Fareham there is a long and pleasant descent for cyclists. 72 m., Fareham, described in Bte. 4. 77 m., Gosport (Rtes. 1 and 4), passing Forts Elson and Brockhurst. The nearest way to Portsmouth is by the floating bridge across the harbour from Gosport (Bte. 1). From Fareham to Portsmouth round the harbour (a more interesting road) is 10 m., by Portchester (2f m.) and Cosliam (5^ m.). (Rte. 4.) D 34 Route 4. ROUTE 4. LONDON (WATERLOO STAT.) TO GOSPORT, STOKES BAY, AND PORTSMOUTH, BY BOTLEY [BISHOP’S WALTHAM], AND FARE- HAM. (S. W. ELY.) Tlie distance from London to Gosport by this line is 89 in.—to Portsmouth, 944 m. The night mail trains between London and Portsmouth use this route, though it is 20 m. longer than the direct Portsmouth line (Rte. 1). For the line from London as far as the great junct. Stat. of Eastleigh (73£ in.), formerly called Bishop- stoke, see Rte. G. Here the trains are usually divided into several sections. The line, branching 1. from East¬ leigh, passes through a pleasant corner of Hampshire, marked by low wooded hills, green meadows, and open chalk downs. 79 m., Botley Stat.; Junct. for Bishop’s Waltham (post). Botley is a small market town at the head of Hamble Creek, and has a large corn-mill and some shipping business in corn and timber. The Ch. was built in 1836, with an aisle and a chancel of later addition. It pre¬ serves an ancient font from the old Ch., part of the nave of which is still standing, 1 m. E. A British canoe is preserved in the Market House. A handsome Ch. for the new district called Curdridge, E. of the Stat., is by T. G. Jackson, R.A. William Cobbett occupied for —Botley. some time Fairthorn Farm (about 300 acres) in this parish. The house in which he resided has been replaced by a modern red-brick mansion. The direct road (11 m.) from Winchester to Botley (where it joins the turnpike road from Southampton to Portsmouth) was made at Cobbett’s suggestion. It passes through a picturesque wooded country. Shedfield, 2§ m. E., has a modern Ch.; the older tower stands in the ch.-yd. Wickham (Rte. 3) is 2 m. further. Durley, 3 m. N., has a small cruciform Ch., mostly E. E. Sir Wm. Jenner, Bart., M.D., has a residence here at Greenwood House. The Hamble Creek, a long arm of the Southampton Water, termi¬ nates here; it receives the stream of the Hamble river (which the railway crosses by a viaduct), flow¬ ing from Waltham Pond. The head of this creek is probably the “ Cerdics-ora ” of the A.-S. Chron. (placed, however, by others on the opposite bank of the Southamp¬ ton Water at Calshot), the place where, A. D. 495 , Cerdic and Cynric landed, and effected the first settle¬ ment of the West Saxons. The Jutish leaders, Stuf and Wihtgar, disembarked at the same place in 514 ; and the Hamble river [flumen Homelea ), according to Bede ( H.E . iv. 16 ), flowed through the country which they afterwards acquired (Dr. Guest). The Hamble Creek is at all events the natural inlet of the country, and probably received some of the earliest Saxon colonists. The shores of the creek are in many places pleasantly wooded. For Bursledon and Hamble , lower down the creek, see Rte. 12. 35 Route 4 .— Bishop's Waltham. From Botley a branch line runs to Bishop’s Waltham (5 m.). This clean little town is de¬ serving of a visit on account of the remains of the episcopal Palace, erected by Bp. Henry de Blois, brother of King Stephen, and almost rebuilt by Wykeham. The name of the town ( Weald-ham, the dwelling in the wood), as with others in Essex and Lincolnshire, indicates the ancient character of the country ; and the bishops had a park of iooo acres surrounding the castle, where, as well as in the wilder thickets of Waltham Chase, they might ‘ * see their hawk fly, or their greyhound run.” Henry II. held a great council here in 1182, when supplies were granted for his pro¬ jected crusade. His son Coeur-de- Lion was entertained here in great state, after his coronation at Win¬ chester, on his return from his Ger¬ man captivity, when one of the many disputes for precedence be¬ tween the Abps. of Canterbury and York occurred. William of Wyke¬ ham did much for the palace, and died here at the age of 80, Sept. 27, 1404. Cardinal Beaufort bequeathed to Queen Margaret of Anjou “his blue bed of gold and damask wherein the queen used to lie when she was at the palace of Waltham.” Bp. Langton, who succeeded to the see in 1493, made many alterations and additions ; but Waltham was alien¬ ated by Bp. Poynet (under Edw. VI.) to the first Marquis of Winchester, and was finally “demolished” and the manor sold, during the civil war. At the Restoration it came back to the Church, but the palace has not been restored. The original form of the building was a parallelogram, divided into two courts, in the second of which were the hall (on the W. side) and chapel (on the E.). At the angles were square towers. The most im¬ portant portion now remaining is the front of the hall, 65 ft. long, the 5 large windows of which are shrouded in ivy. This is possibly part of Wykeham’s work. The ruined tower, 17 ft. square, is per¬ haps earlier. Beside these, a part of the refectory exists, now used as a barn. In front is a large sheet of water, called the Abbot’s pond, which affords good fishing, made by dam¬ ming up one of the small streams which unite to form the Hamble. There was formerly a second pond in the meadows below. The Church of Bishop’s Waltham, recently restored, dates for the most part from the 17th centy., but the Perp. chancel is possibly of Wyke¬ ham’s building. Dr. Ward, one of the translators of the Apocrypha, was rector, and is buried in the chancel. Admiral Villeneuve, a prisoner of Trafalgar, and other officers, were interned on parole at Bishop’s Waltham. About 1860 a bed of potter’s clay was discovered, and a scheme for large works was promoted by Sir Arthur Helps, who resided at Ver¬ non Hill House , once the seat of Admiral Vernon but it "proved a failure. Waltham Chase, formerly a rough common of about 1300 acres, lies S.E. of the town. It was well stocked with deer until the beginning of the last century, when the “Waltham Blacks,” a famous gang of (deer-stealers, so called from the black stain with which they smeared their faces be¬ fore setting out on their expeditions, destroyed the greater part of the stock, besides attacking the deer which lay farther off in the forests of Wolmer and Bere. Their depreda¬ tions at last led to the passing of the “ Black Act” (9 Geo. I.), which, says White, ‘ ‘ comprehends more felonies than any law that ever was framed before.” The Waltham Blacks are said to have included among their ranks ‘ ‘ many members of the most respectable families.” The whole country “was wild about deer-stealing; and unless he was a D 2 36 Route 4. — Fareham. hunter, as they affected to call them¬ selves, no young person was allowed to be possessed of manhood or gallantry.”— White. Bp. Hoadly, when urged to restock Waltham Chase, replied that ‘' it had done mischief enough already.” On the Chase, about 1| m. from the town, is a Ch. for the modern parish of Swanmore. Swcinmore House (W. H. Myers, Esq., M.P.) is famed for its gardens; the head gardener is Mr. Edwin Molyneux, whose name is well known. ' Leaving Botley, the rly. passes through a country of low, wood- covered hills, well seen from the embankments. The Tichfield river, locally known as the Aire, is crossed by a viaduct, close to which, at Knowle, is the large County Lunatic Asylum, with a farm attached, on which many of the inmates are em¬ ployed. A good view of Fareham is gained as the line crosses the road from Tichfield. 811 m., FAREHAM Stat. Junct. of the lines to Portsmouth and Gosport (Stokes Bay). A branch also runs to Southampton by Netley (Rte. 12). The town, which stands on a creek at the N.W. corner of Portsmouth Harbour, has a considerable local trade, easily admitting to its quay vessels of 300 tons burthen. There are a large tannery—one of the few in which bark is still used—and ex¬ tensive potteries (for draining-tiles, llower-pots, &c.), the material for which is supplied from the imme¬ diate neighbourhood. It is a clean¬ looking town of tw T o long streets : West Street , extending from the Stat., and High Street, of substantial old houses crossing it at right angles. Fareham deserves credit among srnal 1 towns for the adoption throughout of electric light. There is a pretty view of the town across the bridge at high tide. The parish Church , in High Street, retains only the E. E. chancel of the old Ch.,now admirably made into a chapel for week-day services by Sir A. Blomfield, who has built an excellent and lofty chancel of red brick in E. E. style. The hideous nave of 1813 will be replaced, when funds allow, by a building similar to the chancel. The old chancel has two good E. E. piers to the arch, some lancet-windows, and a low-side window. The modern reredos and alabaster pulpit are handsome. At Fareham Thackeray spent some of his boyish days, and remi¬ niscences of the place will be found in his writings. There are several good houses with parks near the town, especially Cams Hall , with fine grounds ex¬ tending to the shore, and Roche Court (Rev. G. Sloane-Stanlev), by the side of the London road. At Cams Hall used to be the great picture by Reynolds of Lady Betty Delme and her children, which was sold in 1894 for 15,000 guineas. At Funtley , on the Titchfield river, 2 m. N. of the town, the first iron- mill was erected by Henry Cort, de¬ scribed by Mr. Smiles as “ the author of our modern iron aristocracy, who still manufacture after the processes he invented or perfected.” *Titchfield (2 m. W.) should not be left unvisited. The points of interest are the Church , with its monuments, and the remains of Place House. Titchfield is a place of some anti¬ quity, since it is mentioned as “ an ancient market town ” in the will of the 1st Earl of Southampton; and the neighbourhood of a considerable abbey no doubt increased its im¬ portance. The manor, which at the period of the Domesday Survey be¬ longed to the king, was granted by Henry III. to Peter de Rupibus, Bp. 37 Houte 4.— Titchfield. of Winchester, for tlie foundation of Titchfield Abbey, by which house the greater part of the existing jiarish Church was built. The Church is a large and interest¬ ing one, of various dates. It has a low tower and shingled spire, some¬ what of the Sussex type. Under the tower is a rich Norm, door of 3 orders. The nave is flanked by very broad aisles, of which the S. is modern; the Perp. N. aisle (much later than William of Wykeham, to whom it is popularly attributed) has an arcade of slender clustered shafts. The chancel arch has low Norm, piers with square caps. Over it is a painting of The Crucifixion, and over the W. door is The Miraculous Draught of Fishes, in sgraffito work. On the N. side of the sanctuary is a monument of Wm. Chamberlaine, 1608, which is important as having, at that date, the inscription “ on whose soule our Lord have mercy.” The original Norm, walls of the chancel are pierced (E. and N.) with Perp. windows. On the S. side are E. E. sedilia, and then a door and two remarkable E. E. arches cut through the wall, which forms a base; they open into a chantry chapel, which has been made the burial-place of the Southampton family. This chapel is good Dec., and lias ogee double piscina and sedilia. In it is a sumptuous monument, erected in accordance with the will of the 2nd Earl of Southampton (d. 1581), for his father, his mother, and himself. The principal place is assigned to the effigy of the Countess, which is of full size, and on the top of the tomb. On lower shelves, on either side of her, are smaller figures of the 2 Earls. On the S. side are 2 daughters of tho 1st Earl; on the N. a son and daughter of the founder. The monument is in good preservation, and is a fine specimen of the elaborate work of Elizabeth’s time. A replica of it was made for Sir Anthony Browne, of Cowdray, 1st Viscount Montague, and father-in-law of the Earl of Southampton, for Midhurst Ch. in Sussex; it stands now, but in a mutilated condition, in Easebourne Ch., near Midhurst. The cost of this chapel and the tomb, including the funeral expenses, was no less than 1000 Z., equal to about 12,000Z. at the present day. The 1st Earl (Lord Chancellor Wriothesley) had been buried in the Ch. of St. Andrew’s, Holborn ; but his body was removed here by his son’s directions. The coffins of the Earls were opened about 50 years ago. The bodies were almost intact, and were pre¬ served in a fluid resembling new- run honey. On the S. wall is a pretty little monument of Lady Mary Wriothesley, 1615, aged four. The monument for Miss Hornby, 1832, is by Chantrey. The (ruins of Place ( = Palace) House, on the site of Titchfield Abbey, are about \ m. N. It was also sometimes called Funtley Abbey, from a small manor on which it stands. The Abbey was a house of Pre- monstratensian canons, from Hales¬ owen in Shropshire, placed here by Bp. Peter de Rupibus, 1232. Ac¬ cording to most of the earlier chroniclers, Henry VI. was married in this Abbey to Margaret of Anjou, 1445, but the distinction is also claimed for Southwick Priory [post), and there is a curious conflict of evidence on the subject. The revenue of the abbey, at its sup¬ pression, was 249/. ( Dugdalc) ; the abbot who surrendered it was John Sampson, Bp. of Thetford. It was then bestowed on Thomas Wriothes¬ ley, the Lord Chancellor and favourite of Henry VIII. He built here, in Leland’s words, “a righte statelie house embatayled, and having a goodlie gate, and a conducte (con¬ duit) castelid in the middle of the court of yt, in the very place where 38 j Route 4.— Titchfield. the late monastery stood.” Wriothes- ley was one of the 16 executors of the will of Henry VIII. ; and on the accession of Edward VI. was created Earl of Southampton. He retained the Chancellorship, which he had held in the former reign ; but was in less than a month compelled to re¬ sign it, though he retained his seat in the council. He retired to this house, where he died in the year 1550. His son, the 2nd Earl, re¬ ceived Edward VI. in great state at Titchfield, during his progress through the southern counties. Shakespeare not improbably stayed here, the 3rd Earl being his patron, to whom the Sonnets are dedicated. The house received a second, but less happy, royal visit in 1647, when Charles I., after his escape from Hampton Court, took refuge here, intending to sail from the coast, but was prevented by the error of Ash- burnham, who brought Colonel Ham¬ mond, governor of the Isle of Wight, to Titchfield, thereby “undoing” the king. Charles passed from here, in Hammond’s custody, to Caris- brook. (See for the whole remark¬ able scene at Titchfield, Askburn- ham s Narrative, vol. ii.) Titchfield was also the birthplace, and the residence before her marriage, of Lady Rachel Wriothesley, the heroic wife of William, Lord Russell. The remains of the house are stately and picturesque. Admission is not readily given, but the exterior can be seen from the road. The S. front closely resembles Cowdray in Sussex, which was built by Wrio- thesley’s friend, Fitzwilliam, who, curiously enough, bore the title of Earl of Southampton, which became extinct at his death, and was revived for liis friend. The house was castellated, and of considerable strength, as was still thought neces¬ sary so near the coast. It became the property of Mr. Delme, who about 1781 pulled most of it down to enlarge his new house, Cams Hall, at Eareliam (ante). The chief existing feature is a large and lofty gatehouse flanked by 4 turrets, and a fine brick stepped gable, sur¬ mounted by pinnacles and columnar chimneys. Behind the house are a few remains of the Abbey itself and its chapter-house. The Ch. was 200 ft. long, and, as is usual in Premonstratensian houses, cruci¬ form without aisles. The chapter- house and domestic buildings were on the N. side. In the grounds are the remains of the abbey fish-ponds, and some distance W. of the house are the remains of the stables. From the high ground E. of Titchfield a wide prospect may be obtained over Portsmouth to the Isle of Wight. At Titchfield Mr. Pepys has recorded the comfort he obtained from “ seeing at one view 6000Z. a year.” “We observed,” he continues, “ a little churchyard ” (probably not that of the parish church), “ where the graves are accustomed to be all sowen with sage.” St. Margaret’s (Gen. E. C. A. Gordon) is a house with some ancient portions, and is said to have been a hunting-lodge of King Stephen. Near Fareham begins the line of Forts, as yet incomplete, that stretch along the ridge of Ports- down Hill, a distance of nearly 7 m., and are designed to prevent its occupation by an enemy, who, if in possession, might destroy Ports¬ mouth. “In arranging the defence of the dockyards,” says Capt. O’Brien, R. E., “ the two antagonistic condi¬ tions of a long line to defend, and a minimum number of defenders, re¬ quired to be reconciled. An enemy having once landed in England, the whole of the regular troops, as well as a large body of militia, would be needed for the field army, and the defence of the dockyards would de¬ volve on a relatively small number of reserves, and on the garrisons and marine artillery. The object of the 39 Route 4.—Fort Brochhurst. works is to prevent the enemy either taking them easily or passing between them, and at the same time to render it impossible for him to burn the dockyards by a distant bombard¬ ment. The enormous range of rifled guns obliged the circle on which the guns are placed to be a very large one, with a radius of not less than 4000 or 5000 yds., and the necessity of preventing an enemy in force pass¬ ing between them rendered it advis¬ able to place them within easy artil¬ lery range of one another. The works are thus mutually supporting, and form, as it were, a series of closed bastions, no one of which can be attacked without engaging two or more collateral forts. The inter¬ vals can easily be further strength¬ ened by batteries and field-works placed somewhat in rear of the main line. As compared with Continental examples of detached forts, they are small, being intended for defence by small bodies of troops ; their profile, however, is a formidable one, cal¬ culated to enable them to make an obstinate resistance.” ( Military Manuals , Fortification.') The Forts already built or build¬ ing are the following, proceeding from W. to E., but engineers main¬ tain that the intervals between them are in some cases too great, and that at least 2 more works must be erected. The number and weight of the guns to be mounted in each is also still sub judice. (1) Fare- ham, a very strong hexagonal work. (2) Wallington, distant 1 m. (3) Nelson, § m. (4) Soutliwick , If m. (5) Widley , 2 m. (6) Purbrook , If in. These are of horseshoe shape, facing to the N., with wide and deep ditches, and are built in a very massive manner of brick. They occupy from 15 to 20 acres each, and have a total barrack accommo¬ dation for about 3000 men. At a very short distance E. of Fort Nel¬ son is the Pillar, “ consecrated,” as the inscription runs, “ to the me¬ mory of Lord Viscount Nelson by the zealous attachment of all those who fought at Trafalgar, to per¬ petuate his triumph and their re¬ spect. Erected 1805.” On the back of the base is the statement that the British ships at Trafalgar numbered but 19, and the French and Spanish 33, “19 of which were taken or de¬ stroyed.” The pillar, being intended to serve as a sea-mark, is placed at a spot where the hill is 294 ft. high, and is itself 120 ft. in height. The laue beside it leads to *Boar- hunt Ch., 1 m. N.W. (3 m. from Fare- ham), which is chiefly Trans.-Norm.; but the chaucel arch is probably a good deal earlier. On each side of it is a recess for an altar, with a segmental arch, and in the side wall a recessed half-arch connected with it. The pilaster strips on the E. wall resemble those at Corhampton. There is a curious and very early window in the N. chancel wall, blocked by a 16th-centy. tomb of the Henshawe familv. The font is a large plain cylinder of early date. In the ch.-yd. is a noble yew, like that at Corhampton. At the foot of Portsdown Hill a great fair was formerly held on July 26. Stokes Bay Line. From Fareham the Stokes Bay branch proceeds through the low ground on the W. of Portsmouth Harbour to 87! m -» Brockhurst Stat. Hence there is a light railway , like a steam-tram, to Lee-on-the-Solent hr.), with intermediate Stats, at Privett and Browndoivn Forts. Lee-on-the-Solent is a small, new watering-place in the parish of Crofton, near the mouth of South¬ ampton Water, and almost opposite to Calsliot Castle, about 3 m. N. of Stokes Bay. It has a pier, and ex¬ cursions run daily in summer from 40 Route 4.— Portchester. Portsmouth Harbour and Southsea. The parish Ch., at Crofton, is modern; the old Ch. is used as a mortuary chapel. At Rowner, near Brockhurst, is an E. E. Ch. with a Norm, arch, now re-set as the vestry door, and some slight remains of mural paint¬ ings in the present chancel, which was formerly the Boune chapel. 89 m., Gosport Stat., not far from the Clarence Victualling Yard. (For description of Gosport, see Rte. 1— Portsmouth.) The majority of the trains, how¬ ever, now leave the Gosport Stat. to 1., and proceed by a loop 1o a Stat. at the S.W. end of the town, in Stoke Road, called Gosport Road and Alverstoke. Gosport was till 1845 a part of the parish of Alverstoke, the Church of which, originally Norm., was re¬ built on a larger scale, 1863, in Dec. style, by Woodyer. Notice the rich chancel arch and reredos, and the monumental tablet to the memory of the officers and men of the unfortunate 44th Regi¬ ment, which perished so miserably in Cabul. This tablet was erected by the few survivors of the regi¬ ment, and above it is suspended the tattered colour which Lieut. Souter preserved by wrapping it round his body. The manor of Alverstoke (Al- warestoke) was bestowed on the “ Church of St. Swithun ” at Win¬ chester by a noble Saxon lady named Alwara, for the benefit of her husband’s soul: hence the name of the parish, which still, including Gosport, is in the hands of the Bishop of Winchester, as lord of the manor. Many privileges were granted by the bishops to the in¬ habitants of Alverstoke, who pos¬ sessed a common seal, impressions of which still exist (Arehseol. Inst it., Winchester vol., 1845). Beyond Alverstoke is Browndown, with 2 batteries, where there is a Stat. on the light railway to Lee- on-Solent. The ground is now covered with rifle ranges, and on it the German Legion was encamped during the Crimean war. 89 m., Stokes Bay (Terminus of the line). This is the shortest pas¬ sage to the Isle of Wight, the dis¬ tance to Ryde Pier Head being only 2f m. (15-20 min.). The pier, however, is much exposed, and in rough weather the steamboats not infrequently are suspended for tho day, so that the route via Ports¬ mouth is generally much to be pre¬ ferred. There is also but miserable accommodation on the pier; no re¬ freshment-room, and no covered way to the boat. In Stokes Bay, from Fort Monk- ton, is the measured mile for testing the speed of men-of-war steamers. W. of Stokes Bay Stat. is the watering-place called Anglesey (so named from the first stone having been laid by the Marquis of Angle¬ sey, 1826), consisting of terraces facing the sea. A tall pier of stone and brick-work behind Angle¬ sey is raised as a sea-mark ;to guide vessels entering the harbour, and is called the Gillkicker; it gives its name to the casemated Fort on the beach. Portsmouth Line. The Portsmouth branch from Fare- ham runs E. near the head of the harbour, commanding a pleasant view at high water. 87£ m., Portchester Stat. The vil¬ lage lies S. of the line, between it and the gray, massive walls of the **Castle, which, standing out boldly 41 Route 4.— Portchester. on a projecting tongue of land, re¬ calls the days in which the legions of ancient Rome guarded, by their stronghold here, the approach to this part of the coast of the “ re¬ mote Britain.” Portchester, correctly so spelt, is in fact the predecessor of Portsmouth, and the original “ fortress ” of the “ port.” The castle itself has portions ranging from the Roman period to the 14th centy., and, though terribly mutilated, is still one of the most interesting ruins in England. It can be easily reached by boat from Portsmouth, about 5 m. ; a steam-launch runs daily in the summer. Portchester in all probability re¬ presents the “ Portus Magnus ” of the Itineraries. It was connected by Roman roads with Regnum (Chi¬ chester), Venta Belgarum (Win¬ chester), and Clausentum (Bittern, near Southampton). The sea has, no doubt, much receded from its walls, under which the Roman galleys were once moored ; but the strength of its position was not overlooked by mediaeval builders, who formed here, as at Pevensey (the ancient An- derida), a Norman castle within the area of the old Roman walls. The site had, however, been well known during the Saxon period, and it was here that, according to the Ang.-Sax. Chron., Port or Portha landed in 501, and established him¬ self as lord of the surrounding dis¬ trict. No castle, however, but only an "aula” or hall, is mentioned as existing at the period of the Domes¬ day survey—a sufficient proof that the present keep is of more recent date. It is probably of the time of Stephen, and at all events not later than the reign of Henry II. King John paid frequent visits to Port¬ chester, and often made it his point of departure for the Continent. The castle was also used as a state prison. Eleanor, wife of Simon de Montfort, took refuge here in 1265, after her escape from Odiham (Rte. 3); her son Simon was constable of the Castle, and here raised troops in support of his father. Edward II. often visited it. In 1445, according to one account, Margaret of Anjou landed here, and was married to Henry VI. either at Titchfield Abbey ( ante ), or Southwick Priory [post ); but from that time to the period of the revolutionary war—- when it was crammed with French prisoners, said to number 8000, Dutch sailors from De Winter’s fleet, taken at the battle of Camper- down, and galley-slaves who had been cast on shore in Pembroke¬ shire—Portchester has but little his¬ tory. The importance of the castle naturally declined as that of Ports¬ mouth rose. The general plan of the entire fortress is quadrangular. At the N.W. angle is the Norm. Keep, towering high above the rest of the walls; buildings of a later date are ranged round three sides (W., S. and E.) of the inner court, the entrance to which was under two portcullises. The outer court, or ballium, is formed, as at Pevensey, by the walls of the original Roman fortress. In this court is the parish Ch., possibly covering the site of the Roman sacel- lum (compare the remarkable cruci¬ form foundations within the area of Rutupix, Richborough—see H.Blt. for Kent). To this outer court there are two gates or entrances, fronting one another, in the E. and W. walls. A ditch, double on the E. side, sur¬ rounds the whole of the walls, the area within which is about 9 acres, now converted into tea-gardens, much patronised by holiday-makers from Portsmouth. The Outer Walls should first be examined. These have been patched and repaired at many different times (very extensively in the reign of Henry III.), but still exhibit suffi¬ cient proofs of their Roman origin. As at Richborough, Pevensey, and Burgh, the line of wall is broken by circular towers, 18 in all, including 42 Route 4.— Portchester. those of the keep. In this instance the towers are hollow instead of solid: a mode of construction, how¬ ever, which occurs in other Roman fortresses, as in the town walls of Bourges. The walls are from 8 to 12 ft. thick, and about 18 ft. high. There is little or no tile used, and what does occur (on the N. side) is probably not Roman. Nor is the red mortar found here, which is gene¬ rally so marked a feature of Roman remains. The bonding-courses of the walls are formed of a coarse limestone, which is also used at Sil- chester (Rte. 7), and the composi¬ tion of the cement is the same at both places. This resemblance to Silchester, the age of which is well ascertained, as well as the general arrangement of the walls and towers, are the chief reasons which have induced archaeologists to assign a Roman origin to the outer walls of Portchester. The original gates have been replaced by others of much later date. Abreast of the old water-gate lies Little Horsea Island, a gunpowder depot, with the Tipnor Magazines E., on the mainland. Leaving the Ch. for the present, we pass through a barbican, with many arches in succession, grooved for 2 portcullises, into the inner baily, in which stands] the Keep. Fragments of Roman inscriptions found here are built into the wall rt. of the entrance. The keep itself in its arrangements resembles those of Rochester and Dover. It is quad¬ rangular, and divided by a party wall running from the bottom to the top. The walls are ft. thick, faced wdth Caen stone, and filled in with rubble. A change takes place in the masonry about half-way up the building, possibly indicating that the work is of two periods, both of which, however, must be within the 12th centy. Within, the keep is divided into four stories. * ‘ The rooms are more than com¬ monly dark, being lighted in the three lowest tiers merely by small narrow loops ; and the uppermost floor, the one of most consequence, is but little better provided. The way in which light and air are alike excluded gives us a curious insight into the domestic inconveniences of the early English kings, who, when compelled to stay within doors, must have passed much of their time in a dim and murky twilight.”— Hartshorne. From the top of the keep a fine view of Portsmouth with its harbour is gained; in the extreme distance are visible Chichester spire and bell- tower; and N. is Portsdown Hill, with Nelson’s monument. Here the names of many French prisoners are carved. Sir Walter Besant’s story, “ The Holy Rose,” deals with the time of this imprisonment. The building adjoining the keep W. is of late Dec. character. That on the S. has some Norm, portions, and some very good specimens of Tudor architecture. On the E. side the buildings are later. The use of all these buildings is quite uncertain, and it can only be conjectured that parts of them are referred to as the “Queen’s” and “Knyghton’s” chambers in the Ministers’ accounts of the reign of Edw. III. The *Church, in the outer baily, should next be visited. It possibly occupies the site of a Roman build¬ ing, but the present Ch. was that of a priory of Augustinian canons, founded within the walls of the castle by Henry I. about 1138, but removed, within 20 years of its foundation, to Southwick (post). The canons probably found the castle no tranquil place of residence during the troubles of Stephen’s reign. The Ch. (restored in 1871 and 1888) was originally cruciform, with a low tower at the intersection. The S. tran¬ sept has been destroyed, and a part of the Ch. has been rebuilt (the E. window is very late Perp.), but it still contains some very interesting por¬ tions of the original Norm, structure. Monte Southwick . 43 The W. front is very good and entire, showing 3 circular-headed windows above a much-enriched doorway. Amongst the mouldings are those of “ Sagittarius ” (the Archer), the badge of King Stephen. This is interesting as marking the fact that the Ch., begun in the reign of Henry I. (1133), was finished in that of his successor Stephen. Along the walls of the chancel and remaining transept run a stone bench-table and an arcade, the un¬ finished state of which may be ac¬ counted for by the sudden removal of the canons. The priory buildings were on the S. side, as usual, but some building stood on the N., from which a door opens high in the wall. A curious double arch is exposed in the wall by the pulpit, and near it is a low-side window. In the chancel are a sarcophagus, and some coffin slabs. The font should be especially noticed ; it is ornamented with an intersecting arcade, and has on one side a representation of the baptism of Christ, in which the original Byzantine type is fol¬ lowed. Southwick lies about 2 m. N. of Portchester, on the borders of the ancient forest of Bere. The park of Southwick House( T. Thistlethwayte, Esq.) is large and varied, and from the house (built on the site of one burnt down in 1840) fine views are commanded toward s Portsmouth and the Isle of Wight. Numerous wild-fowl frequent the lake in the park. The Church is mostly a Pcrp. building with a modem tower. It has a brass of John White, “ fyrst owner of the priory and manor of Suthwicke after the surrender and departing of the Chanons from the same” (1567), and his wife and family; but the figures were pro¬ bably engraved 40 or 50 years earlier. The Priory , of which the only remains now are the foundations of a few walls, stood about J m. distant from the present Southwick House, where the evidences relating to it are still preserved. It increased rapidly in importance after its re¬ moval from Portchester, and obtained grants of numerous churches and lands throughout the county (among other works, the canons built the parish Ch. at Portsmouth, Bte. 1). This priory was the first place in the diocese benefited by William of Wykeham, who founded in it five chantries:—for the prosperity of Edward III., for the soul of Ed¬ ward III., for his own soul, and for the souls of his father and mother, John and Sibyl, who were buried here. In the church of the priory Henry VI. is said by some of the later chroniclers to have been mar¬ ried to Margaret of Anjou (1445). Large privileges and immunities—- among the rest free chase in all the royal forests in the neighbourhood of their lands — were afterwards granted to the canons by that king. Soon after the Dissolution the priory of Southwick passed from the Whites to the Norton family, of which the last prior was a member. Charles I. was visiting Sir Daniel Norton here at the time of Bucking¬ ham’s assassination by Felton at Portsmouth (see Rte. 1). The king was at prayers in the chapel, when Sir John Hippesley entered and whispered in his ear the fatal tidings. Charles, says Lord Clarendon, took no notice until after the conclusion of the service, when he retired and broke into the most passionate lamentations. 1 m. N.E. of Portchester is Pauls- grove Quay, the extreme navigable point of Portsmouth Harbour, and 1 m. farther E., near Cosliam Stat., Wymering, with a restored Clr., originally Norm. Notice in the ch.-yd. the coped sepulchral slab, with elegant floriated cross, probably 13th centy. Widley Ch., m. N. of Cosham, has been rebuilt, but 44 Boute 5.— retains some mouldings, &c., of the old building. 89f m., Cosham Stat., whence a loop line joins at Havant (Rte. 1) the South Coast Railway. At a short distance S.E. of the junction the rly. crosses Portbridge creek, and passes through the Hilsea Lines , which replace the old earthworks erected during the French war. These lines, 2800 yds. long, consist of 3 great bastions, and terminate in demi-bastions at either end, fur¬ nished with casemated flanks. The rly. then advances through the low, flat island of Portsea, given by jFthelfla3da to the monks of Win¬ chester, to 93§ m., Fratton Stat., Junct. for East Southsea. 94 m., Portsmouth Town Stat. 94^ m., Portsmouth Harbour Ter¬ minus. For Portsmouth , see Rte. 1. ROUTE 5. LONDON (WATERLOO STAT.) TO WINCHESTER, BY ALDERSHOT, FARNHAM, AND ALTON. (S. W. kly. 65 J m.) This line is 1| m. shorter to Winchester than the main line (Rte. 6), but is in part only a single line, and has no fast trains, so that it is little used except for interme¬ diate traffic. It is a pretty line, however, for the explorer, and opens -Aldershot. up the eastern-central part of tho county. The main line of the South- Western by Surbiton and Woking is quitted beyond Brookwood Stat. (28 m.), and the next Stat. is (32J m.) North Camp and Ash Vale, within the borders of Surrey, for the North Camp of Aldershot. The S. E. Rly. from Reading to Redhill, which is crossed immediately afterwards, has another Stat. called Aldershot, North Camp, which is somewhat nearer to the Camp. The county of Hants is now entered, and at 35 m., ALDERSHOT (Town Stat. ) is reached. A loop from the Stat. to Ash Stat., on the S. E. Rly., affords direct communication with Guild¬ ford (10 m.). Aldershot Camp and town lie wholly in Hants, but in a nook of the country projecting into and almost enclosed by Surrey. There are several railway stations within or near the Camp limits : (1) Aldershot Town, the most central, S. W. Rly., with S. E. Rly. branch to Ash; (2) North Camp, S. E. Rly., on the line from Reading to Guildford; (3) North Camp and AshVale, S. W. Rly. (ante); (4) Farnborough, on the main line of the S. W. Rly., and therefore sometimes convenient; about 2 m. from North Camp and 4 from the town; (5) Ash Stat. (S. E. Rly.), on the line from Aldershot and Guild¬ ford ; and (6) Ash Green, \ m. S. of it, between Farnham and Guildford. Aldershot Heath is the southern termination of the Bagshot sand which forms so large a part of Surrey, and reaches its highest ele¬ vation here, about 400 ft., though some higher hills are also capped with Bagshot sand. The greater part of the higher hill of Caesar's Camp is of chalk, and forms an outlying bastion of the North downs of Hampshire. FARNBORQi poleon JlTMauso leiun Coombs •vers Arms 'oleford Bridge 0 MALPLAQUET ,, £ OUDENARDE ,, F RAMILLIES G ALBUHERA H BARROSA J CORUNNA K MAI DA A i B SQUARES C SQUARE N D SQUARE 0 A. S. C BARRACKS ? MANDORA BARRACKS Cj^R. E. ESTABLISHMENT Rectory 'l It op lets Church 271 /- Old Trunk T f Tarn Park (loleforc (V)\T /{WhitrSall.T ' -tv'' ^ - • Siuttkwood '/'hr Sycamores Brook Ho. I' Fishpomh.FJC hitehmd Ton (/full T- l hillhor Mitrhet I lively FT Stratford's T Ball UHL 269 Fa rn boro ut do vim on o m m o n lock Hill -' . I jrrislBri L vn chAp ? AXDERSHO! NORTH CAMP S l Moor Wood Eel mo nr Marshy Danger Hut- La ffants Plain Government Bo, (meat lint f am Farris Mi 300 < ir‘J.1 >or ou^Ii xoirniCAMi ^ T • 1 x Lines (attorn Miles Hr. k 30 C Hr! moor ° K J ' Pn - l r\ bhPfwjis f jEfursery n C ** Church liecoEvah Redoubt path vale Hrl Tied Hhowles\ Eelmaor Hill Forth Queen's Pea 'tide Frocks Hill W Gymnasium, SmaUshofl X ®' 2 / 9 Army Athletic Club a 9 azxn \ Si Vl O' ^-LuJlduid Cocked, Rut 1 Tiood | limbs Tool Hill Stony Mill Magazine IWe-selilvn n Hill '374 lon q Hill 360 ' SOUTH CAM! , Thorn Rill / y 362 ‘ 2 ; , MZiSff London ALDERSHOT CAMP (NORTHERN SECTION) ■ . ■ ■ , . * ALDERSHOT CAMP (SOUTHERN SECTION) oniLiri ')r,l/ih rn n h 'WeOj/uTton Stat. (fill 1 Tub He e HUI 433 - Artillery Exercising Ground s \ - - ReAnn JUA - 0 ^ynrirrv \ Relitxny> ~ fiaii/yyjii ^ ^ i/xlieti/inUtT Try BoiMtiey l/R Wn Dul&& Ifanoi'JTo. Hale Park\ TM Folk Si.Johns Cit r\ PoytehilLHo- a run am Pa rli itr way semi Ho. The Gri uiy AxL ; /, ./ Tariiuaja r^\Cfisrl<- Boar) armer \ T _ ■Parch GA,i Tandy Cross in ton BADAJOS BARRACKS SALAMANCA TALAVERA ROYAL HORSE ARTY” P? CONSORT’S LIBRARY Button. F’P Cul-verlaruisn 'ooksb, Copyright J, Bartholomew. Ediii r N HA M STA I M 1 l E London. Join Murray; ALbemaiTe Street. 0 Route 5 .— Aldershot> 45 The Camp was permanently esta¬ blished here in the summer of 1854. It lies almost wholly on the E. side of the Portsmouth Road (Rte. 3), and the two parts, north and south, are divided by the Basingstoke Canal. The plateau on which they stand is on an average 250 ft. above the sea, and the situation is singularly healthy, suffering only from a plague of dust in summer, not so much as formerly, but still to a degree very unusual in the British Isles. The town of Aldershot, which was but an inconsiderable village before the establishment of the Camp, contains scarcely anything of interest. The old parish Ch. (St. Michael) stands S. of the railway. It is partly E. E., though badly “ restored,” and contains one or two monuments of the Tichborne family. The cupola with clock near the Stat., on hill to rt., is that of the Cambridge Hospital. The red-brick Ch. with a tall spire, near the Canal, is St. George's (military). All Saints' Ch., further W. (military), by Hard- wich , also has a tall spire. Both these churches have some interest¬ ing military memorials. Holy Trinity , Victoria Road, is of brick with stone facings. The excellently conducted Soldiers’ Institute is interesting. The entire reconstruction of both North and South Camps was com¬ menced in 1890, and the wood huts, so long the characteristic feature of the place, have disappeared, and have been replaced by serviceable red-brick barracks, the officers quarters of which are surrounded by bright and well-tended gardens. For the old designations North Camp, South Camp, and Permanent Barracks,have now been respectively substituted Marlborough Lines, Stanhope Lines (after the late Secre¬ tary of State for War under whom the reconstructions were commenced), and Wellington Lines. The dif¬ ferent Infantry barracks are dis¬ tinguished by the names of cele¬ brated English victories. Thus in Marlborough Lines are the following barracks, named after the Duke of Marlborough’s battles :— Malplaquet. Touruay. Oudenarde. Ramillies. In Stanhope Lines— Albuhera. Maudora. Corunna. Maida. Barossa. In Wellington Lines— Talavera. Badajos. Salamanca. Each of these barracks holds a battalion of Infantry, who are housed in detached buildings, each holding a company. Laffan’s Plain, the ordinary show- parade ground, is about m. from either the Town or North Camp Stats. The road to it turns 1. on the N. side of the canal. Where the road to the North Camp Stations turns off from the Farnborough road is the Queen's Hotel , to which an establishment for pine-batlis and inhalations is annexed. Government House , the residence of the General commanding the district, is among pine-trees to the 1. For Farnborough , which lies to the N., see Rte. 6. Across the Farnborough road, W. of the town, is the Queens Pavi¬ lion (not shown to the public), a wooden building in an enclosed fir- plantation, and surrounded by shrub¬ beries. It has sometimes been used by the Queen on the occasion of great field-days. Not far from it, on a knoll, the equestrian statue, by Wyatt , of the Duke of Wellington which used to stand on the arch at Hyde Park Corner has been set up, 1885. The great flat sandy waste, known as the Long Valley, is the scene of the great field-days. At 4 G Route 5.— Farnham. the end of it is a steep hill, i 600 ft. high, the intrenchments at the top of which bear the name of Caesar’s Camp. Roman coins have been found here, but the intrenchment, which is of irregular shape with triple vallum, is probably British ; and it [has been suggested that it may have been occupied by Alfred, before his defeat of the Northmen at Farnham in 894. Together the camps cover an area of about 7 sq. m.; and they commonly contain about 15,000 troops, beside women and children. Of late the garrison has been much increased, owing to the concentration of troops from outlying stations. According to the official return there is accom¬ modation for 585 officers, 19,647 men, and 4358 horses ; or including Woking and Pirbright, which are also in the Aldershot command, 21,200 officers and men. When, as at the summer drills, militia and volunteers are also present, they are usually placed under canvas on Cove Common, near the Farnborougli Stat., at Bourley, Tweseldown Hill, and along the W. side of the Win¬ chester road. In the Officers’ Club, situated on the Farnborougli road, are held the balls and other entertainments which from time to time enliven the camp, whilst during the summer months cricket matches take place on the grounds below. Usually a military band plays in the grounds two or three times a week. The house contains a fine club-room and 16 other apartments. A little further on, to the rt., are the Royal Engineers’ barracks and establish¬ ment which includes the Balloon House, an object of curiosity to many. Their fine recreation-ground is also here. An amply supply of water has been brought from a distance, avenues of trees have been planted, and convenient recreation-grounds formed. A well-appointed fire-brigade has its stations all over the camps, and there are post-offices and telegraph- offices inside, and cabstands outside the gates. Taken as a whole there is much to interest a visitor in this military centre of England, where in summer the constant movement of troops, the tramp of cavalry with fluttering pennons, or the stern rumbling of the guns drawn by their smart teams, afford an unusual spectacle to the English civilian eye. The show parades are always held on Laffan’s Plain, the larger reviews generally in the Long Valley, and the Field days either on the well-known Fox Hills or on the stretch of waste country lying to the W. of the camp. To witness a Field day, it is best to follow the troops on horseback. The Fox Hills are too rough for a bicycle, but a good deal can be seen of manoeuvres about the canal if one is provided with a good map of the country. Beyond Aldershot the line passes again for a short distance into Surrey, in an outlying loop of which Farnham is situated, though both by position and its ancient con¬ nexion with! the see of Winchester it would seem rather to belong to Hants, and may fitly also be de¬ scribed here. 37f m., FARNHAM Stat. Farnham has its name [from the ferny heaths in its neighbour¬ hood. The manor has since 860 belonged to the Bps. of Win¬ chester, on whom it was bestowed by iEthelbald of Wessex. The chief feature of the town is still the stately moated * Castle of the old bishops, dating from the days when they knew how to handle the sword as well as the missal. The Park is open to the public; to see the keep Foate 5 .— and chapel, an order from the chap¬ lain in residence is required. The original fortress was built in 1136, by Henry of Blois, Bp. of Winchester, the powerful partisan alternately of his brother Stephen and of the Empress Matilda. It was taken by Lewis of France in June, 1216, who marched there from Guildford in pursuit of John ; it was razed by Henry III. on account of its having “become a retreat for rebels,” but was afterwards rebuilt by the bishops. For its present form it is mainly indebted to Bp. Morley, after the Restoration, who during his tenure of the See, from 1662 to 1684, is said to have expended 11,000Z. in its renovation and improvement. The servants’ hall, with its circular pillars, is part of the original struc¬ ture ; the apartments above, with the exception of a fine hall, now used as a dining-room, are of little interest, though good and well arranged. The Chapel contains some panels carved in festoons of fruit and flowers by Gibbons. On the opposite side of the court is the ancient Keep, to which a long flight of steps ascends, carefully guarded by covered archways at the top. The keep is multangular, and is strengthened by thick but¬ tresses without. Together with its arched entrances it is mainly of the 13th cent. There are remains of apartments, however, above the entrance, of a much later date. The area is laid out as a flower- garden, pleasantly contrasting the Old World with the New. Here a fine tea-tree may be seen flourish¬ ing in the open air. From the walls a good view of the park is obtained. This is 3 m. in circum¬ ference, and is crossed by a fine avenue of ancient elms. “ Certain white clay ” found in Farnliam Park was “ in great Eliza’s days ” much in request “for the making of grcne Farnliam . 47 potts usually drunk in by the gentle¬ men of the Temple.” On the lawn below the keep are some noble cedars. Queen Elizabeth paid many visits to Farnham. In 1569 the Duke of Norfolk, then plotting a marriage with Mary of Scotland, dined at the castle with her majesty, who on rising from the board ‘ ‘ pleasantly advised the duke to be careful on what pillow he laid his head.” The warning was of no avail; Norfolk was decapitated three years after. The castle suffered much during the civil wars, when it was taken by Sir W. Waller. George Wither, the poet, was afterwards appointed its governor for the Parliament. On the Restoration it was again de¬ livered to the See of Winchester, and Bps. Duppa and Morley ‘ ‘ repaired its waste places.” The late Bp. Thorold expended a large sum on improvements. In descending Castle Street, 1., are the Almshouses, erected by An¬ drew Windsor, Esq., in 1619, “for the Habitation and Relief of eight poor honest old Impotent Persons.” The Parish Ch. of Farnham is dedicated to St. Andrew. The earliest portion is Trans.-Norm., the pillars of the nave E. E. The side- aisles, lighted by 5 Dec. windows, terminate in chantry chapels, be¬ yond which the chancel projects some feet; this is Perp., and was restored in 1848 as a memorial of the Rev. John Menzies, long curate of Farnham. The E. and 2 side windows illustrate subjects from the history of our Lord and from that of St. Andrew. In the chancel are a fine credence-table and a piscina. The tower is late, and was very ugly; but in 1865 it was rebuilt, and carried up 50 ft. higher, so as to be in all 120 ft. high ; pinnacles of a better form were placed at the angles, and its general character much improved. The Ch. was re- 48 Route 5.— Farnliartl. stored in 1862 and also considerably enlarged in 1886. It contains a good Monument, by Westmacott, to Sir Nelson Rycroft, of Callow, in York¬ shire : the design is a pilgrim rest¬ ing, with his “ fardel ” for a pillow. In the ch.-yd., near the N. porch, is a large altar-tomb for William Cobbett, erected by his son. A new Church (St. James) was built in 1876 as a memorial to Bp. Sumner (d. 1869). The Market House and Town Hall, at the corner of Castle Street, was erected (1865) in place of the old Market House, and has a lofty clock- tower. The Grammar School, in West Street, was endowed (1611) by Dr. Harding, President of Magdalen College, Oxford, and further en¬ dowed (1679) by Bp. Morley. It was re-established in 1849, and enlarged in 1872. The Bush Hotel , a fine old house with good garden, is mentioned in Thackeray’s ‘Virginians’ as over 300 years old. The distinguished natives of Farnham are: Nicholas of Farn- ham, Henry III.’s favourite leech, and afterwards Bp. of Durham; the Rev. Augustus Toplady, author of “ Rock of Ages ” ; and William Cobbett, who was born at a public- house, near the Rly. Stat., called the Jolly Farmer , in 1762, and died in 1835 at Normandy Farm, in the adjoining parish of Ash. Farnham has greatly changed its character of late years, and from a peculiarly retired country-town, has through the establishment and near neighbourhood of the camp at Aider- shot, become remarkable for its bustle and activity. Many officers lodge in the town ; several taverns have sprung up between the camp and the Rly. Stat.; and what may be described as a new town has arisen on Farnham Common, to the S. The principal trade of the town is in hops, once more celebrated and highly prized than at present, though Farnham hops still main¬ tain a high reputation. Pains have been taken to maintain their good quality by regulations established among the cultivators, who form themselves into a society called “ the Farnham Acre,” the members of which are bound under a heavy penalty to cultivate only one sort, the white bine (although it is less productive than the black), to dry the hops without sulphur, and to place none but the approved hops in the sacks or pockets bearing the mark of the society, this device being changed every year. To the good management induced by these regu¬ lations the Farnham hops ow r e their excellence, and generally command the best price in the market, though, from the increase of land now under hop culture in other parts of Eng¬ land, the prices are less than for¬ merly. The principal sale of Farn¬ ham hops takes place at the Wehilly fair (Rte. 8) on Oct. 10 and five following days. In the vicinity of Farnham there are about 1000 acres of hop-ground. Behind the town, and between it and the castle, they form an uninter¬ rupted garden of 3 m. in length at least, which in the autumn offers a sight well worth seeking for. The sandy soil of the district (on the upper beds of the lower greensand) seems peculiarly favourable to the hop. (For a general notice of the growth and harvest of the hop, see H.Bk.for Kent, Introduction.) 1| m. E. of Farnham Stat. is Moor Park (Sir W. Rose), the famous seat of Sir William Temple when Swift was his secretary; and | m. beyond it are the ruins of Waverley Abbey, the first Cistercian 49 Route 5 — house in England. For description of these, see H.Blc. for Surrey. At Crondall, 4 m. N.W. of Farn¬ ham, some fine mosaic pavements and Roman coins were discovered in 1815. The pavement was pre¬ served until 1855, when it was much mutilated and finally destroyed. About 100 Merovingian gold coins were discovered on a heath here in 1828, near an earthwork called (like most other intrenchments in this district) Csesar’s Camp; these were probably from a purse dropped by some early French traveller on his way from Southampton to London. The *Church, Trans.-Norm. and E. E., is very fine (restd. 1871). In the chancel is a fine brass of a priest in full eucharistic vestments, probably Nicholas de Kaerment, rector 1360- 1381; also one on altar-tomb of JohuGyfford and family 1571, and a skeleton with inscription, John Eager, 1631. An ancient road passes near Cron¬ dall in the direction of Bagshot, worth notice on account of its name, which curiously perpetuates an old British word. It is known as the “ Maulth way,” i.e. the Sheep way, Mollt being the Celtic equivalent which the Saxons banished, and which the Normans, acquiring it from their Gallicised neighbours, brought back to us in the word “ mutton.” After Farnham the line re-enters Hants, following very closely the line of an ancient road, probably of Roman origin, which passed west¬ ward in the direction of Winchester. Foundations and pavements of more than one Roman villa have been discovered in its neighbourhood. The Rly. advances through a broad valley, watered by a branch of the Wey, with woods and hop¬ gardens along the rising ground on either side. This was called by Arthur Young, who regarded [Hants.] -Bentley . it with the eye of an agriculturist, the finest 10 m. in England; but Cobbett, in spite of his birth at Farnham, has bestowed the palm upon the district between Maid¬ stone and Tunbridge, no doubt a far richer one. It was in former days a favourite haunt of the out¬ laws who frequented the great Hampshire woods, and who here kept a good look-out for the mer¬ chants, with their trains of sumpter- horses, travelling to or from Win¬ chester. “ In the 14th century the wardens of the great fair of St. Giles ” (at Winchester) "paid 5 mounted ser¬ geants-at-arms to keep the pass at Alton during the fair, ' according to custom.’ ” In the previous century, after the battle of Evesham, in which Simon de Montfort, leader of the barons against Henry III., fell, Adam de Gurdon, a most active partizan of De Montfort, fortified himself in this pass, and was attacked here by Prince Edward, afterwards Edward I., who leapt over the intrenchments of his camp, singled out Gurdon, wounded and made him prisoner. The same night Gurdon was sent to the Queen at Guildford, with letters of strong recommendation. The king subsequently pardoned him, restored his lands in the neigh¬ bourhood of Alton, which were of considerable extent, and made him keeper of Wolmer Forest. 42 m., Bentley Stat., on the Wey. Some distance beyond the village is the late Norm, and E. E. Ch re¬ stored by Ferrey, which has a Norm, font. It is approached by a long avenue of yew-trees. In this parish, the pavements of a Roman villa have been discovered. S. of the Rly. is Alice (or Ayles ) Holt (called Aisholt, “the Ash wood,” in an inquisition of Edw. III.). It is a district of about 2 sq. m., and like Wolmer (Rte. 1) has always been a royal forest. Unlike Wolmer, however, it was E 50 Route 5.— Alton . always thickly wooded, and still contains some valuable timber, in spite of many clearings and in¬ closures. The fallow deer, which once abounded here, have long since disappeared. Rude pottery, no doubt British, has been discovered in some quantities w T ithin the forest, where it was probably made. The Great Lodge (Mrs. Milward) is the property of the Commissioners of Woods and Forests. All the places in this neighbourhood are naturally well wooded. N. of the line, half-way between Bentley and Alton is Froyle, where the Ch. was rebuilt, 1812. Froyle Parh (C. F. Wood, Esq.), belonging to the Miller family, is a 17th*centy. house, lately much al¬ tered, and has tine elms in the park. 2 m. from Bentley is Binsted, where Edward I. sojourned more than once on his southern progresses, which has a restored Trans.-Norm. Church (Holy Cross) well worth a visit. The capitals of the columns deserve particular notice; there are two side chapels attached, and evi¬ dences of a third having existed. In the Westcott Chapel is a fine monument supposed to be of Richard de Westcott (c. 1330). At Wheatleys , in this parish, a stone sepulchral cist, containing a skeleton and several terra-cotta vessels of Roman date, now in the British Museum, was discovered. Kingsley Ch., 24 m. further, annexed to Binsted, is modern, but the old Ch. is used for funerals. The chalice is dated 1569. 14 m. short of Alton, rt., is the village of Holybourne, with an E. E. Ch., dedicated to the Holy Rood, restored by Christian. It stands on a steep bank, below which a copious spring, giving the name, bursts forth, and hurries along to meet the Wey. 46| m., ALTON Stat. The town consists for the most part of one long and steep street. Alton ale is famous, and brewing is still the chief activity. There is also a large paper mill. Alton contains little else to detain the tourist, except the restored Church (St. Lawrence), partly , Trans.-Norm., which deserves a visit. It is but the fragment of a large cruciform edifice, with central tower and spire. The tower, now used as a baptistery, stands on the S. side of the Ch., owing to the loss of the S. aisle, and is an interesting piece of Norm, architecture. Some late brasses are affixed to the wall at the W. end of the Ch. Some wall paintings of the 15th cent., illustrating the life of our Lord, besides a portrait of Henry VI., were discovered here some years ago. In 1643 this Ch. was the scene of a severe struggle between the royal¬ ists and parliamentarians. Colonel Boles, the royalist leader, was stationed in the town, with his own regiment of infantry and 2 troops of horse. Sir William Waller, who was besieging Farnham Castle, marched suddenly to Alton with a body of 6000 men, and completely surrounded the town. Colonel Boles found means of sending intelligence of his situation to Lord Hopton at Win¬ chester ; but before assistance could arrive he was compelled to retreat into the Ch. with 80 of his men, 60 of whom, with Colonel Boles himself, were killed before the evening. Charles I., on hearing of his death, is said to have exclaimed, “Bring me a mourning scarf, for I have lost one of my best commanders.”— Moody. The doors, which were riddled by the shot of the parliamentary troopers, still remain in the Ch., and were strongly backed with oak to pre¬ serve them at the late restoration. There is a Brass with an inscrip¬ tion to the memory of Colonel Boles, Boute 5.— Bentworth. 51 a facsimile of one removed from here and placed near the steps leading to the choir in Winchester Cathedral. Alton has a small Museum of local natural history, containing some personal relics of White of Selborne. William de Alton, a Dominican of some note, temp. Edw. II.; John Pitts, born 1560, author of the hook ‘ De Illustribus Anglioe Scriptori- bus and William Curtis, born 1746, author of the beautiful ‘ Flora Lon- dinensis,’ were born at Alton. In 1665 the Plague visited Alton with such severity that whole houses were left emptied : memorials of this remain in old houses still held by “Key Hold tenure.” People took possession of the tenantless cottages to which their only title is the hold¬ ing of the key. The little village of Bentworth is 4 m. N.W. of Alton. George Wither, the poet, was born here in 1588, his father having had an estate here, which the poet himself sold at the commencement of the civil war in order to raise a troop of horse for the Parliament. In liis ‘ Abuses Stript and Whipt ’ he more than once alludes to the “ beechy sha¬ dows” of “our Bentworth.” The Ch. is E. E., with a small gabled tower. Abbot Stephens, who sur¬ rendered both Netley and Beaulieu Abbeys to Henry VIII.’s Commis¬ sioners, was for his compliance pre¬ sented to the living of Bentworth. Burliliam House (A. F. Jeffreys, Esq., M.P.), and Thedden Grange (J. G. Wood, Esq.), are seats in the neighbourhood. Shalden Ch., E. of Bentworth, has been rebuilt. Lashani Ch., on the Basingstoke road, was rebuilt by Woodyer . 2i m. S. of Alton is the Ch. of East Worldham, rebuilt on the site of a Norm, church, with the stone¬ work of windows and doors carefully replaced. Under the nave of the old Ch. a monument was discovered, the recumbent figure of a lady, pro¬ bably early 14th cent. f m. S.W., the old Ch. of West Worldham is used for funerals. ^ m. beyond it is the interesting little Ch. of Hartley Mauditt, which has a well-preserved Norm, chancel arch, somewhat horse - shoed in shape, a Norm, font, and some monu¬ ments of the Stuart family. For Chaivton, on the Gosport road, see Rte. 3. 6 m. N.W. of Alton (and 8 m. from Basingstoke) is the village of Bradley. The Ch., mostly rebuilt (1876), has an E.E. arcade and some lancet windows. There is a stone coffin in the ch.-yd. In the woods near is a British earthwork called The Castle. One of the most interesting Ex¬ cursions in Hampshire is that to Gilbert White’s * Selborne. Selborne (the name no doubt indi¬ cates the deep wood with which all this district, on the W. border of the great Andred’s Weald, was originally covered; Sel, signifying wood, covert, being one of those roots which, according to Kemble, are common both to Celts and Saxons) lies among a cluster of hills about 5 m. S.E. of Alton. It may be also reached from Liss, on the direct Portsmouth line, 5 m. (Rte. 1). The S. part of the parish con¬ sists of chalk; the N. and N.E. ex¬ hibit the upper greensand, the gault, and the lower greensand, which everywhere crop out from beneath it. It is to this variety of strata that the parish is indebted for its picturesque charms. The first view of the village, in approaching it from Alton, is a striking one. It lies nestled among trees in a long valley, overhung on one side by the “ Hanger ,” covered with beeches, “the most lovely of all forest trees,” says White; “ whe- e 2 52 Route 5.— Selborne. ther we consider its smooth rind or bark, its glossy foliage, or graceful pendulous boughs”; and beyond again by the Nore Hill, also covered with wood. The white gabled house, rising clpse by the low church tower, and under the fir wood, is the Yicarage. A wooded park stretches away from the garden of White’s house to the foot of the Hanger. Descending into the village, you enter the main “street,” in which beech and fir trees contend for pre¬ cedence with the houses. On the rt. is the old house of Gilbert White, called “ The Wakes,” long worthily occupied by Professor Bell, the dis¬ tinguished naturalist, who brought out a fine ed. of the famous work. Strangers are courteously allowed to visit the house. The older part has scarcely been altered since White’s death ; and the new wing which has been added is in excellent keeping with the rest. Both street and garden fronts are much covered with ivy and various creepers, and the steep, many-tinted roofs form combinations not a little picturesque and attractive. In this house Gil¬ bert; White was born, July 18, 1720, the eldest of five brothers. His grandfather had been the vicar of Selborne, and the property here was held successively by Gilbert’s father, John White, a barrister ; by Gilbert himself; and by his brother Benjamin, the publisher. Gilbert White early retired here from Oxford, where he had taken orders, and been elected Fellow of Oriel. His long life, spent in the tranquil pursuits which have im¬ mortalised his own name and that of his native parish, was closed here in 1793. The room in which he was born, and died, is still pointed out. The house itself contains few relics of its old proprietor, beyond the pleasant rooms which he inhabited. In the very pleasant garden, opening at the back of the house, are a sundial set up and used by Gilbert White, and “ the great spreading oak,” round which he describes the fern owls “ showing off in a very unusual and entertaining manner.” Here is also the large American juniper, which, “ to its great credit,” stood uninjured throughout the “ rugged Siberian weather” of 1776. Anar- row brick wall in the garden is said to have been made by the natural¬ ist’s father. The Church should next be visited. In proceeding to it you will pass through the “ PlestorC or “Play-stow,” an open space partly surrounded by houses, granted to the Priory of Selborne by Adam de Gurdon in 1271. The prior held his market here; and under an enormous oak which stood in the centre, the old “ sat in grave debate on summer evenings, whilst the young frolicked and danced before them.” This oak was blown down in 1703, but has been replaced by a vigorous sycamore. The Ch. has a Trans.-Norm. nave, with E. E. S. aisle, mostly re¬ built, and Dec. N. transept, it was partly restored in 1863, and more completely in 1883 by W. White , F.S.A., who is of kin to the natu¬ ralist. A marble tablet has been placed in the chancel to the memory of Gilbert White. His brother, Ben¬ jamin, the publisher, in 1793, pre¬ sented the early German or Flemish diptych, attributed to Mabuse , re¬ presenting the Adoration of the Magi, which is now placed above the altar. The quiet beauty of the ch.-yd. with its noble yew-tree, de¬ scribed by White, and still flourish¬ ing, well fits it for the last resting- place of the tranquil old naturalist, whose grave, with a simple head¬ stone bearing his initials, is on the S. side of the chancel. The swifts still shriek round the tower, and the white owl haunts the overhanging roofs, just as when he paid “good Houte 5 .— Medstead. 58 attention to tlieir manner of life,” a house, and some encaustic tiles on century ago. the floor of the summer-bouse. After seeing White’s house and the Cli., the visitor who is pressed for time will do best to climb the Hanger , whose wooded slopes close in the village towards the W. A wide view is here commanded over great part of Surrey and Sussex; and the general character of the district which surrounds Selborne is well seen. From the Nore Hill, “ a noble chalk promontory” (White), which adjoins the Hanger, a stream breaks out S., which finds its way to the Arun ; and a second N., which be¬ comes a feeder of the Wey. The “ rocky hollow lanes ” with their ferns and overhanging coppice, leading, one towards Alton, and the other to Wolmer Forest, are still in existence, as are the “ well-head ,” breaking out of the land at the foot of the Hanger, and the “ steep abrupt pasture field, interspersed with furze, close to the back of the village, and w’ell known by the name of Short Lithe” (hlithe, Ang.-Sax. a hill). Through this field, abounding in White’s time with the field cricket, the tourist may walk to the Priory Farm, occupying the site of the house of Augustinian canons founded by Peter de Rupibus, Bp. of Win¬ chester, in 1232. William of Wyke- ham found it in an indifferent con¬ dition when he visited it in 1373, and especially condemns certain of the canons who were “ professed hunters and sportsmen.” It continued in this state, notwithstanding his efforts to improve it; and was entirely abandoned, without canons or prior, when its estates were made over by William Waynflete to his newly founded college of St. Mary Magda¬ len at Oxford, about 1459, to which they still belong. Of the Priory itself the only traces are, a stone coffin in the garden of the farm- At Temple Farm, S.E. of the village and overlooking Wolmer Forest, was apparently a preceptory of Knights Templars. The land here at all events was granted to them by Adam de Gurdon, whose own residence is said to have been on this spot. The farm-house con¬ tained some ancient portions in White’s time. A short distance E. is the beauti¬ ful little Ch. of Blackmoor, by A. Waterhouse, B.A ., with parsonage, schools, and labourers’ cottages, built in 1869 by Sir Roundell Palmer (the first Lord Selborne) on the Blackmoor estate, before his own mansion was begun. Roman re¬ mains, vases, and a large number of coins (ranging from a.d. 238 to 296) have been found here. Beside Wolmer Forest (Rte. 1), which may be visited from Selborne, a very pleasant excursion may be made by Empshott to Hawhley Hanger (Rte. 3). Liss Stat. (Rte. 1) is easily reached from thence. 51 m., Medstead Stat., the sum¬ mit of the line, 697 ft., 1| m. S. of the village. The Ch. has a good Norm, arcade. The small Norm, and E. E. Ch. of Wield (or Weald), 2 m. N. of it, is chiefly noticeable for a fine alabaster monument of William Wallop, in armour, and his third wife. He was of the family from whom the Wallop villages near Andover (Rte. 8) derive their name. 54J in., Ropley Stat., 1£ m. N. of the village. The Ch. was repaired and enlarged in 1848, and restored with more care in 1897, but is not of much interest. A fine Roman toique was found here (figured in Arch. Inst. vol. for 1845). A Roman villa was found at Bighton Wood, 2 m. N. Bighton Ch., 2 m. from 54 Houte 5.— Alresford. Alresford Stat., has several interest¬ ing Norm, portions remaining, in¬ cluding a squint, and a fine Pur- beck font. West Tisted, 3 m. S.E. of Ropley Stat., has an E. E. Ch., in which Sir Benjamin Tichborne (see Tich- horne, post ) lies buried. In the cli.-yd. is an immense yew, and in an adjacent field the stump of an oak in which Sir Benjamin is said to have hidden after the battle of Cheriton. At the Manor Farm is a carved oak bedstead of Elizabethan date, and some good panelling. There are several tumuli in the parish, known as the “ The Jumps.” S. of the line, m. from Alres¬ ford Stat., is Bishop’s Sutton; once a manor of the Bps. of Winchester, who had a palace here, the only existing trace of which is the so- called site of the bishop’s .kennel— a portion of the ancient episcopal establishment by no means neglected, especially in so forest-clad a county as Hampshire. Charles I., when escaping from Hampton Court, made for Bishop’s Sutton, but found the village inn occupied by a Parlia¬ mentarian Committee. The Ch. is partly Norm., with a nave, lighted by the original four small windows, good N. and S. doorways, and early Dec. chancel. The wooden arches and posts supporting the belfry are probably of the 15th cent., having moulded capitals and good chamfer terminations. There is a good Brass of an unknown knight and lady (c. 1520). 5G£ m., Alresford Stat. There are two Alresfords, Old and New, both named from their situation on a ford of the Arle river. The district is said to have been included in the grant of Kynewalch, 2nd Christian King of Wessex, to the newly established Ch. of Winchester. At any rate Alresford has v been in the hands of the bishops from a very remote period. New Alresford is a small cor¬ porate and market town, and in very early times it was a borough also. Although the more important place, it was until 1850 merely a chapelry attached to Old Alresford, the superior antiquity of which, however, is not considerable, since its “newer” offset existed at the period of the Conquest. The town, which had fallen into decay, was restored by Bp. de Lucy (1189- 1204), whore-established its market, built the interesting bridge , and formed 4 the great pond (then covering 200 acres—now about 60), as a reservoir for the Itchen, which he made navigable from Southampton to Alresford. ‘ ‘ By means of this the pellucid and troutful streams—the ‘ Dulcia pis- cosae flumina aquae ’ of the old monkish poet—are kept always full and flowing, not shrunken by drought, or mischievously swollen in rainy seasons.”— Woodward. Alresford shared in the prosperity and decline of its greater neighbour, Winchester. It was at one time important as a clothing place, and had many fulling-mills on the ad¬ joining stream. Few towns have suffered more from fire. It was always being burnt down. The first conflagration recorded was in 1610. Ten years later great part of West Street was destroyed. It was burnt by the retreating troops of Lord Hopton (whose headquarters it had been) after the defeat of the Royalists at Cheriton (post), and suffered again from fire in 1678, 1689, 1710, and 1736. It is now the centre of an important agricul¬ tural district. In 1850 it was separated from Old Alresford, and formed into a separate incumbency. The Ch., recently restored, was re¬ built after the fire of 1689. A small 55 Route 5 .—Godsfield. crucifix of stone, apparently of great antiquity, built into the W. tower, merits notice. The Church of Old Alresford (St. Mary), about J m. N., was rebuilt in 1753; the tower in 1769. In 1862 a transept was added, and architectural features introduced, which gave it a much more eccle¬ siastical appearance. The chalice is the earliest known example (1563) of the conical shape intro¬ duced after the Reformation in place of the ancient hemispherical form. That of New Alresford is of the following year (1564). Lord Rodney, the naval hero, was buried here in 1792. New Alresford was the birthplace of Abp. Howley, and also of Miss Mitford, the well-known authoress of ‘ Our Village.’ Colonel Richard Norton of Southwick, the “idle Dick Norton ” of Cromwell’s letters •—“ given to Presbyterian notions ; purged out by Pride; dwindled ultimately into a Royalist ” ( Carlyle ) *—resided in early life at the Manor House of Old Alresford. Peter Heylyn, Laud’s biographer and historian of the Reformation, was rector of Alresford in the troublous times of the Rebellion. Llis library, valued at 1000Z., was seized by 'Waller’s troops, and his living sequestrated. After the Restora¬ tion, he returned to Alresford, but he died very soon after. 4 m. N.E. is Armsworth House (T. A. Houghton, Esq.), a handsome mansion in the Italian style, built 1862 on the site of a house that belonged to the Rodney family; it is surrounded by extensive woods. At Godsfield, W. of it, and nearer to Alresford, are some remains of a preceptory of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, built c. 1150 by Bishop Henry de Blois, and pre¬ sented by him to the Order, in whose possession it remained until the Dissolution. The remains consist of a small late Dec. chapel, with a priest’s house at the W. end. The most interesting place near Alresford is Tichborne Park (Sir H. A. J. Doughty-Tichborne, Bart.), 2 m. S., which from a period of unknown antiquity, probably before the Conquest, has been in the hands of a family of the same name. The name is derived from the “Ticceburn,” which appears as a boundary stream in several A.-S. charters. Like most families which can claim a Saxon origin, the Tich- bornes have a remarkable legend attached to their history. Sir Roger Tichborne, in the reign of Henry I., married Isabella, heiress of Limerston, in the Isle of Wight. The charities of this lady were unbounded ; and when she lay on her death-bed, at the end of an un¬ usually lengthened life, she prayed her husband to grant her as much land as would enable her to establish a dole of bread to all comers at the gates of Tichborne on every succeed¬ ing Lady-day. Sir Roger took a flaming brand from the hearth, and promised his wife as much land as she could herself encircle whilst it continued burning. She caused herself to be carried from her bed to a certain spot, and began creeping round it on her hands and knees. Before the brand was consumed she had encircled a plot of 23 acres, near the entrance to the park, still known by the name of “Crawles.” The house, says an ancient prophecy, will fall, and the family of Tichborne become extinct, should any of the Lady Isabella’s descendants be dar¬ ing enough to divert her charity. The “Tichborne dole,” in the shape of 1900 small loaves, was regularly distributed for ages, and morsels of the bread were carefully kept as a sovereign remedy against ague and other ailments. It was not until the middle of the last century that the custom was abused ; when, under the pretence of attending Tichborne 56 Houte & .—Cheriton ♦ Dole, vagabonds, gipsies, and idlers of every description assembled from all quarters, pilfering throughout the neighbourhood ; and at last, the gentry and magistrates complaining, it was discontinued in 1796, but money to an equal amount is still annually given to the poor of the parish. The first baronet, Sir Benjamin, was high sheriff of the county at Queen Elizabeth’s death, and received his baronetcy from James I., together with the grant of the castle of Winchester, in fee-farm, as a reward for the zeal with which he hastened to proclaim the new monarch on his own responsibility. James I. often visited at Tichborne, usually spending Aug. 29 there. In the civil wars Sir Richard, the 3rd baronet, garrisoned the castle of Winchester as a royal fortress, and served there till its surrender to Cromwell, Oct. 8, 1645. Sir Henry, the 4th baronet, was imprisoned in the Tower on suspicion of being implicated in Titus Oates’ plot. In 1869 the title and estates were claimed by a man who pretended to be Roger Tichborne, nth baronet, who had been lost at sea. The claim was resisted by the family in one of the most celebrated trials on record, lasting altogether from 1872 to 1874, when the claimant was proved to be one Arthur Orton, a butcher, of Wapping, was convicted of perjury, and condemned to 14 years’ penal servitude, after mulct¬ ing the estate of 80,000/. in law ex¬ penses. The present house of Tichborne is modern and uninteresting; a very ancient one having been pulled down in 1803. The Ch., seen on a hill at some distance, has an early Norm, chancel worth notice, and very early font. The E. window is Dec. The memorials of the Tich¬ borne family in the N. aisle will repay a visit; one with recumbent effigies is of 1621. About 1£ m. S. of Tichborne is the pretty village, with a fine E. E. Ch., of Cheriton. The very lengthy chancel is especially good, and has many of the original lancets remain¬ ing. The chancel arch is large and lofty, with shafted piers. The upper part of the tower is modern; the arch below Trans.-Norm. Re¬ mark the encaustic tiles, some very good, on the altar platform. It has been conjectured that Bp. Edyngdon (1346-1366) materially improved this Ch., of which he was the rector before his elevation to the bishopric of Winchester; but no part of the existing structure can be of his time. The nave and tower were much injured by a fire in 1744. N.E. of the village, extending from Lamborough Field (in which note a tumulus) to Cheriton Wood, is the site of a hard-fought battle (March 29,1644) between the Royal¬ ists under the Earl of Forth and Lord Hopton, and the Parliamen¬ tarians under Sir William Waller, the former of whom were defeated, but retired in good order ; an event which ruined the king’s cause in the West, and was celebrated by a public thanksgiving in London on the following Sunday. “The king’s horse,” says Lord Clarendon, “ never behaved themselves so ill as on that day. It broke all the measures, and altered the whole scheme of the king’s counsels.” Winchester at once fell into the hands of Waller, 900 of whose troops are said to have been killed or wounded in the Cheriton fight, and 1400 Royalists ; most of the Irish neither giving nor receiving quarter. Several of the slain were buried in the churchyard. Lord Hopton retreated to Basing House. Hinton Ampner Ch., 4 m. from Alresford, has been rebuilt, but retains some traces of long and short work at the angles of the nave, two early Norm.j doorways, a plain E. E. font, a low-side window, and a curious double piscina. Hinton House (H. I. Dutton, Esq.) is modern, in a small park, in which Route 5 .—-Preston Candover. 57 are some tumuli; the old house was notorious as being haunted. Bram- dean Ch., E. of it (3J in. from Ropley Stat.), has an E. E. chancel with Trans.-Norm. arch. It has the rather unusual dedication to SS. Simon and Jude. At Woodcote, 1 m. E., is the site, though little more, of an important Roman villa which was discovered in 1823. Two pavements, one of which has a head of Medusa in the centre, and the other the combat of Hercules and Antaeus, were removed to the Museum at Winchester. Broohwood House (Hamilton Fletcher, Esq.), in Hinton Ampner parish, but a long way from it, was the residence of Charlotte Smith, the once popu¬ lar author of “ The Old Manor House,” &c. 2 m. beyond it is West Meon (Rte. 3). There are small churches at Kilmeston and Beauworth, S. of Cheriton, of which Ch. both were chapelries, but they are of little interest. The name Beauworth is from beo-wyrthe = bee-farm. Here, in 1833, a leaden casket was found containing more than 6000 pennies of the Conqueror and Rufus, appar¬ ently fresh from the mint. Between Alresford and Basing¬ stoke are three villages bearing the surname of Candover ( = head of the water), which is also given to the stream, the largest source of the Itchen on which they are situated. Preston Candover, the most northerly of these, 6 m. from Alresford, and 8 from Basingstoke, has a good mo¬ dern Ch. The chancel of the old Ch. is used as a mortuary chapel, and has a brass with effigy of Catherine Dabridgecourt, 1607. The Ch. of Chilton Candover, 1| m. S.W., was pulled down in 1876, and not rebuilt. There is a fine avenue of yews in the village, probably 500 years old. A mansion of the Wors- leys formerly stood here. Brown Candover Ch., f m. further, built in 1S45, has a small brass of a priest, John Latihall, c. 1520, and of a man and wife, early 16th cent., and a curiously carved chair, represent¬ ing the Temptation of Eve, from Chilton Candover Ch. There arc many large sarsen stones on the downs about here. 4 m. N.W. of Alresford is The Grange (Lord Ashburton), a stately mansion, built by Henry Drummond in place of an old house, originally built by Inigo Jones, and called one of his best productions by Horace Walpole. It has, however, been greatly enlarged and altered by the second Lord Ashburton, and little trace of the older building remains, either within or without. The architect of the existing house was Wilkins , the builder of the National Gallery. It is one of his best Grecian elevations, the grand por¬ tico, copied from the Parthenon, being especially worthy of notice, though completely out of place as an adjunct to a modern English mansion. The park, about 500 acres, is picturesquely wooded, and the gardens and conservatory are very beautiful. In the grounds is a piece of water formed by the Can¬ dover branch of the Itchen. The first house was built by the family of Henley, who acquired the estate early in the 17th cent., and was greatly improved by Robert Henley, the celebrated Lord Chancellor, who, in 1764, took his title of Earl of Northington from the parish in which the Grange is situated. On the extinction of the title in 1786 the Grange was purchased by Henry Drummond, Esq., and while in his possession was for some time occu¬ pied by the Prince of Wales, after¬ wards George IV. It was purchased by the second Lord Ashburton from Mr. Drummond. Its name indicates that it was, like all the surrounding district, a part of the monastic 58 'Route 5.— Avington, possessions attached to Hyde Abbey, Winchester. Northington Ch., N. of the park, is good modern Perp., by T. G. Jack- son, built at the expense of Lord Ashburton. It has a monument of Lord Chancellor Northington. There was once a Ch. at Abbotston, S. of the park, which has entirely perished. Abbotston belonged to Hyde Abbey, Winchester. It passed to the Mar¬ quis of Winchester, and was granted by Parliament to Oliver Cromwell. The little Ch. at Swarraton, on the E. side, was pulled down in 1851. An entrenchment on the downs is known as “ Oliver’s Battery.” Some remains of the mansion of the Dukes of Bolton are still visible. S. of the line, half-way between Alresford and Itchen Abbas, is the handsome modern Ch. of Itchen Stoke, built by H. Conybeare, at the expense mainly of the late rector, the Rev. C. R. Conybeare. It is both rich and in good taste, and deserves notice among modern churches, especially for the narthex and belfry at the W. end, the encaustic tiles, and the complete set of stained windows. This Ch. belonged to St. Mary’s Abbey, Win¬ chester. Abp. Trench was once rector. J m. S. of it is Ovington (not to be confused with Avington, post), which also has a handsome modern Ch., built on a site adjoining the old one, at the sole expense of Mrs. Hewson, of Ovington Park (Capt. Hewson). 60J m., Itchen Abbas Stat. The Ch. was rebuilt in 1863, but retains the Norm, chancel arch. It belonged to Romsey Abbey (whence the name), and the rector held a prebend’s stall there. Avington is close by, on the other bank of the Itchen. The three feeding rivulets of the Itchen, the Arle, the Candover stream, and the true Itchen, unite here. Avington House (Sir Charles Shelley, Bart.) is a large modern brick house, occupying the site of a mansion which with the estate passed in the reign of Elizabeth to the family of Brydges, through whom it became the property of the Dukes of Chandos and Buckingham. The first George Brydges of Aving¬ ton married the infamous Countess of Shrewsbury, whose first husband was mortally wounded in a duel with the Duke of Buckingham, during which she is said to have held the Duke’s horse disguised as a page. Charles II. visited her at Avington whilst the court was at Winchester, and the old house contained a closet called “Nell Gwynne’s dressing-room.” The park (380 acres) is well wooded, contrasting pleasantly with the high bare downs that inclose it ; and advantage has been taken of the stream of the Arle to form a large sheet of water in front of the house. The ivy-covered Church , in the park, was built in 1739 by a bequest of Margaret, Marchioness of Carnarvon. All the interior fittings are of mahogany, taken from a Spanish prize. The service-books are beautifully illustrated. S. of Avington Park is Hampage Wood, the scanty remains of a royal forest which once existed here. In the year 1086 the Conqueror granted to Bishop Walkelin, then engaged in rebuilding the Cathedral of Winchester, as much wood from the forest of Hampage (Hanepinges) as his carpenters could take in 4 days and nights. ‘ 1 But the bishop, ” says the annalist, “ collected an innumerable troop of carpenters, and within the assigned time cut down the whole wood and carried it off to Winchester. Presently after, the king, passing by Hanepinges, was struck with amazement, and 59 Houte 6.— Farnborotigh. cried out—* Am I bewitched, or have I taken leave of my senses ? Had I not once a most delectable wood in this spot; ’ but when he understood the truth he was violently enraged. Then the bishop put on a shabby vestment, and made his way to the king’s feet, humbly begging to resign the episcopate, and merely request¬ ing that he might retain his royal friendship and chaplaincy. And the king was appeased, only observ¬ ing, ‘ I was as much too liberal in my grant as you were too greedy in availing yourself of it.’” ( Willis , from the Annales Eccles. Winton.) After Itchen Abbas the Rly. passes near to a close group of villages in the Itchen valley, Martyr Worthy, Easton, Abbot’s Worthy, King’s Worthy, and Headbourne Worthy. (See Excursions from Winchester, Rte. 6.) It joins the main line of the S. YV. Rly. just where the G. W. Rly. from Didcot to Southampton (Rte. 9) passes underneath, and leaches at 65 in., WINCHESTER (S. W. Rly.) Stat. The G. W. Rly. Stat. in Cheesehill Street is 1 m. distant, at the opposite end of the city. (For Winchester , see Rte. G.) ROUTE 6. LONDON TO SOUTHAMPTON, BY BASINGSTOKE AND WINCHES¬ TER. (l. and s. w. ely. 78f m.) The main line of the S. W. Rly. enters Hants shortly before reaching at 33 m., Farnborough Stat., one of the gates of Aldershot Camp. Just on the borders a network, of lines is passed: first the line (S. W. Rly.) from Aldershot to Ascot, and then the S. E. branch from Reading to Guildford and Redhill, together with various loops uniting the different lines. Farnborough has a second Stat. on the S. E. Rly., nearly 1 m. distant from the S. W. Stat. Nearer to it is the Frimley Stat. (in Surrey) of the Ascot branch. Just before entering Farnborough Stat. on 1. is seen the Memorial Chapel to the late Prince Imperial of France. This chapel stands on a lovely site in full view of Farnborough Fill, the residence of theex-Empress Eugenie. The building is cruciform, in Renais¬ sance istyle, with cupola, and is built almost entirely of Bath stone : the lofty proportions of the interior are most striking. Beneath the altar is a crypt for the French Imperial family, the floor of which is paved with Italian marbles of choice colours: on one side of the altar is a sarcophagus for the late Prince Imperial, on the other that of the late Emperor, which was given by the Queen. The architect is M. Detailleur, celebrated in France. Close adjoining the chapel, and connected by a subterranean passage, is the Monastery of the order of the Premonstratensians, the monks of which, in their quaint mediaeval 60 Route 6.— white robes, contrast strangely with the modern red-brick building. This monastic order claims to be the second oldest in the world. Up to the year 185G it was nearly extinct, but it has since been re¬ vived, and after undergoing a memorable siege in Paris on account of the decrees against monastic order in 1880, has taken up its quarters here. Farnborough has greatly in¬ creased in size since the formation of Aldershot camp, part of which stands in the parish, and towards which groups of villas extend, but in itself it contains little calling for notice. The Ch., which is in the grounds of Farnborough Park (C. R. Lupton, Esq.), is a plain building, originally E. E., with a wooden tower, and fine Perp. wooden S. porch. Beyond Farnborough the Rly. passes over a wide, heath-covered level, with a range of low hills rising about 2 m. distant N., along which the old western high road is carried. On S. the heaths stretch away across Aldershot to Farnham. 36J m., Fleet Stat., formerly called Fleet Pond, so named from one of the largest of the many lake- lets that glisten among the heaths of Surrey and Hampshire. The monks of St. Swithun, Winchester, were partly supplied with fish from it. The line passes through a corner of it on a high bank of sand. ‘ ‘ This presented a problem of con¬ siderable difficulty and anxiety, the conditions of which were satisfied by the engineer in the following manner. The slopes were first faced with sods, then thatched over with hazel rods, and pinned down with willows, which have since taken root and matted the turf on the sand.” The scene here, with the line of the Fox Hills in the distance, is Winch field, not unpicturesque. The Ch, of Fleet is good red brick, with a noticeable W. narthex. It contains a tomb with recumbent effigies of thefdonor, C. E. Lefrov, Esq., and his wife. About 1 m. beyond Fleet Pond, and § m. N. of the Ely., is Elve- tham, a scattered village, with a Ch., originally Norm., but consider¬ ably altered when restored and en¬ larged, 1841. j Elvetham Hall (Lord Calthorpe) is mostly modern Eliza¬ bethan, but parts are ancient. It was here that the Earl of Hertford in 1591 entertained Queen Elizabeth with a series of “ princely pleasures ” almost worthy to take place by the side of those of Kenilworth. Various new buildings were raised for the use of the queen and her attendants ; among the rest a presence chamber with the roof “of work of ivy- leaves,” and the outside walls hung with boughs and “clusters of ripe hazel nuts.” A “poet,” clad in green, with a laurel crown on his head, saluted her Majesty with a “ Latin oration in heroicall verse.” Nereus and Neptune appeared on the great pond, conducting a pinnace in which * ‘ were 3 virgins who played Scottish jigs” ; and “plea¬ sant songs of Corydon and Phillida ” delighted the ears of the queen when she opened her gallery window in the morning. Elvetham was one of the Earl’s principal residences : his name is still preserved in that of the neighbouring hamlet of Hartford Bridge. Pleasant tree - dotted meadows here succeed the heaths, before the line reaches at 39J m., Winchfield Stat. 1 m. S. is the * Church, which the archaeolo¬ gist should not miss. It is Norm, and E. E. The W. door is Norm., recessed, and very rich. The Norm, chancel arch is unusual. The chancel is E. E. The Ch. was restored and a new N. aisle built in 61 Route 6.— BasingstoJce. 1850, when some wall paintings were discovered. If m. N. of Winchfield Stat. is Hartley Row, a modern town in the parish of Hartley Wintney (Rte. 3), from which Rramshill Parle and Eversley Church (Rte. 3) can be visited. S. of the Stat., beyond Winchfield Cli., are Dogmersfielcl Parle (2 m.) and Odiliam (2f m.), for which see Rte. 3. Hoole, the next Stat., is J m. nearer to Odiham town, and m. nearer to Odiham Castle. H m. after leaving the Winchfield Stat. the Rly. passes on a high embankment over the valley of the Whitewater, a stream that runs N. from the chalk country to join the Loddon, as the Blackwater does through the peat. 42 m., Hook Stat. This is | m. nearer to Odiham (Rte. 3) than Winchfield Stat., and the road passes near to the Castle. There are omnibuses for certain trains to both Stats. Hook is in the parish of (2 m. W.) Scures, or Nately Scures (from scora, a coppice). It is late Norm, with apse, and a remarkable enriched trefoil-headed N. door. The Ch.. dedicated to St. Swithun, is only 18 paces long, but some mounds of ruin in front of the tower seem to intimate that it was once larger. There is a 17th-cent. brass. At the Priory Farm, S., are some small remains of the alien Priory of Andwell, a dependency of the Cistercian Abbey of Thirou, near Chartres, secured by William of Wykeham for Winchester College. At Up-Nately and Maplederwell, on the other side of the canal, are small flint churches, the former of which retains a Norm, doorway, and the latter a Perp. font, a 15th-cent. brass of John Turner, and remains of a rood-screen. At Newnham, on the rt. of the line, 1| m. from Hook, the Ch. has been rebuilt, but retains a massive Trans.-Norm. chancel arch. There is an incised slab here, with head and bust. The view from the ch.-yd. is fine. Rotherwick, 2f m. N., has an E. E. Ch. with brick tower, and a monument to Frederick Tylney, 1725, and one to Anthony More, 1682. Tylney Hall (C. E. Harris, Esq.), which stands in a good sized park, has been rebuilt in Tudor style near the site of the old house. At 46 m., on 1. (no Stat.), the line passes close to Old Basing Church and the ruins of Basing House , described further on. Here “ The Loddon slow with verdant alders crowned ” is crossed, on its way to swell “ with tributary urn ” the flood of the Thames at Wargrave. 47 f m., BASINGSTOKE Stat. At this important junction the main line traffic of the S. W. Rly. divides into two: rt. to Andover (Rte. 8), Salisbury, and Exeter ; 1. to South¬ ampton, Bournemouth, and Wey¬ mouth. There is also a terminus of the G. W. Rly. branch from Reading, adjoining the S. W. up platform (Rte. 7). The picturesque ruins of the Holy Ghost Chapel are close on the rt., at the W. end of the Stat. Basingstoke is a place of great antiquity, mentioned in Domesday, and has grown out of Old Basing (post). Several Roman urns, now in the British Museum, were found here in 1839. In 871 Aithelred and Alfred were defeated by the Danes in a battle at Basing. There are many prehistoric remains, and several ancient intrenchments in the neigh¬ bourhood, one of which ( Winkles- bury Circle ), about 1100 yards in circumference, with entrances E. and 62 Route 6.— Basingstoke. W., lies about 15 m. N.W. of the town. The vallam is formed of flints. This intrenchment was used by Cromwell as a station for sur¬ veying Basing House before the attack. Basingstoke had at one time a large share of the silk and woollen trade, but when this declined it be¬ came a very dull, stagnating place, only enlivened by the passing of the West of England coaches, many of which stopped here for the pas¬ sengers to dine. The Basingstoke Canal, which joins the Wey at Wey- bridge, and was meant to give a water carriage to London, is now being cleaned out and repaired for traffic; but its important situation on the S. W. Rly. has revived the town, which has a clean and thriving appearance, and is the centre of a large agricultural district. The *Church (St. Michael and All Angels) lies in a hollow, on the rt. of the road from the Stat. to the town. It is a large and handsome specimen of a late Perp. town Ch. The chancel and a chapel on the S. side are considerably earlier than the rest, but have been much altered. The graceful clustered pillars of the nave belong to the later portion, said to be the work of Bp. Fox, temp. Hen. VIII. The tracery of the windows is peculiar, and resembles work in the chantry of Bp. Fox in Winchester Cathedral. Some old glass, from the Holy Ghost Chapel, is in the windows. The chancel arch was restored in 1850, and in the tower entrance hangs a drawing of the decorations found on the wall, above the arch, under the whitewash. These are Elizabethan—a red and white rose and Prince of Wales’ plume, with the mottoes “Deum Time” “Begem Honora.” There are three late brasses, Robert Stocker, 1606; John Hilliard, a child, 1621; and Roger Ryve, inscription. The Ch. contains a parochial library, kept in the par- vise over the S. porch, founded by Sir George Wheler, the Eastern traveller, at the beginning of the last centy., when he was vicar of Basingstoke, and since increased by other donors. On the chancel wall is the monu¬ ment of Thomas Warton, vicar (d. 1745), “ father of two distinguished sons—Joseph, head-master of Win¬ chester ; Thomas, the poet (laure¬ ate), and the historian of English poetry.” Close to the Ch., across the tiny Loddon, stands the Rectory, with its trees and red-brick walls, upon which the literary tourist will look with interest for the sake of the two Wartons, who were born here. W. of the Ch. is an old building, on the door of which is a fine lock worked into the initials of William, Lord Sandys. Adjoining the ch.-yd. formerly stood a hospital for aged priests, founded in 1261 by Walter de Merton, who is said to have been born at Basingstoke. The site belonged until lately to Merton College. Other Basingstoke worthies are Richard White, temp. Jas. I., author of a History of Britain, praised by Selden ; Sir James Lancaster, died at Basingstoke, 1618 , the celebrated navigator who opened the trade with India, and gave his name to Lancaster Sound in Baffin’s Bay; and John of Basingstoke (d. 1252 ), one of the earliest Greek scholars in England, who, after long studies in Athens under Constantina, daughter of the archbp., a lady profoundly skilled in all the mysteries of the “trivium ” and “ quadrivium,” came back to England laden with Greek MSS. and learning. (See Matt. Paris for all that is known of him ; he discovered the ‘ Testament of the 12 Patriarchs,’ afterwards translated by his patron, the famous Grostete, Bp. of Lincoln.) Above the town and close to the Stat. are the picturesque remains of what is known as the Holy Ghost Chapel. This was the chapel of a 63 Route 6 .—Basing House. guild or fraternity of the Holy Ghost, founded in 1525 by the first Lord Sandys, of The Vine (post), and Bp. Fox—a society bound by no vows, but instituted for the “ promotion of works of piety, reli¬ gion, and charity.” It was dissolved under Edward VI., but re-established in 1556, under Philip and Mary; the brotherhood became extinct under .Tames I., and the estate was seized by the Parliament during the civil wars. Bp. Morley obtained its restoration in 1670, and it still supports a school. This was put under new regulations in 1862, when it was removed from the old site to one on the Andover road, and the old school-room, which had been built on the remains of an E. E. chantry of the Holy Trinity, was pulled down. Gilbert White (Antiq. of Selborne, Letter 26) acknowledges having undermined a “ vast fragment ” while a boy at the school. There was an ancient chapel and ch.-yd. on this site, before the foundation of the guild. Of the later Holy Ghost Chapel, the E. end of which is apsidal, parts of the E. and S. walls are standing, with a hexagonal tower in the S.W. angle, in which was a stair¬ case. All is very late Perp., with debased and Italian details. Be¬ tween the windows, and at the angles of the tower, are canopied niches. Camden mentions the “ holy history of the Bible, painted most artificially with lively portraits on the arched and embowed roof.” The exterior lead is said to have been stripped off for casting bullets during the siege of Basing House. It then gradually fell into complete ruin. At Mottisfont Abbey, near Bomsey (Bte. 10), which belongs to a descendant of the Sandys family, are still preserved several relics ot this chapel in its better days. Among them are a purple velvet altar frontal, richly worked with gold and silver figures, pulpit hang¬ ings, with the date 1633, and book coverings, all with the bearings of the Sandys, and their motto, “ Aide Dieu.” The surrounding burying-ground is known as the “ Litten ” (Ang.- Sax. lie, dead body; tun, inclosure). It is said to date from the Interdict of 1207. Two recumbent figures have been found here, one a cross-legged knight, among fragments of walls and glazed tiles, indicating the site of an earlier chapel than the existing ruined one. The family of Sandys were buried in this chapel until about 1700. In the ch.-yd. are several monuments of the Cufauds of Cu- faud, a very ancient Hampshire family, claiming cousinship with the Tudors and Plantagenets; and some of the B1 undens—one of whom, a Madam Blunden, was, says tradi¬ tion, twice buried alive in this ground. More interesting than anything at Basingstoke are the fragments of ^Basing House, well known for its famous siege and capture during the Civil War. They lie about 2 m. E. of the town, close to the village of Old Basing, and are seen from the rly. “ The Story of Basing House,” by the Rev. G. N. Godwin, which gives full details of the siege, is unfortunately out of print. There was very early a castle of Basing, held by the family of De Port from the Conquest till the reign of Richard II., when it passed by marriage to the Poynings, and thence, under Hen. VI., to the Paulets. Sir William Paulet, created Marquis of Winchester by Edward VI., rebuilt the castle in a style so magnificent, that according to Cam¬ den it was “overpowered by its own weight,” and his posterity were forced to pull down a part of it. Here this great lord (who, “being no oak but an osier,’’ retained his 64 Boute 6 .—Basing House. Lord - Treasurership during four reigns, Henry VIII., Edward VI., Mary, and Elizabeth) entertained this last queen in 1560 so sumptu¬ ously, that, “By my troth,” she ex¬ claimed, “if my Lord Treasurer were but a young man, I could find it in my heart to have him for a hus¬ band before any man in England.” John, the 5th Marquis, the subject of Dryden’s epitaph on his tomb at Englefield, near Reading— “ He who in impious times undaunted stood, And ’midst rebellion durst be just and good,” —was the illustrious defender of Basing House for King Charles. The house commanded the great western road, and had ‘ ‘ long in¬ fested the Parliament in those quarters, and been an especial eye- sorrow to the trade of London with the Western parts. It had stood siege after siege for four years, ruin¬ ing poor Colonel This, and then poor Colonel That, till the jubilant royalists had given it the name of Basting House.” — Carlyle. 100 musqueteers from Oxford were at first the only additions to the mar¬ quis’s own household ; but Basing gradually became an important re¬ fuge for distressed royalists. Fresh troops were from time to time thrown into it by the king, whose soldiers, “passing through the country for Parliament men, with orange tawny scarfs and ribands,” more than once dislodged the besiegers, possessed themselves of Basingstoke, and sent from thence provisions of all sorts to Basing House. Once, too, a body of 1000 horse under Colonel Gage, each man carrying before him “a sack of corn or some other pro¬ vision,” succeeded in relieving the garrison. After sundry fights in the park, skirmishes ‘ ‘ between hedges thickly lined with musqueteers,” and the discovery by the marquis of a cor¬ respondence ‘ 1 for the surprise of the house ” between the Parliamentary General Waller and his own brother, Lord Edward Paulet, the time ar¬ rived for the downfall of Basing. In September, 1645, after Fairfax had taken Bristol, Cromwell was despatched from thence, with a brigade of three regiments of foot and three of horse, for the taking of certain royalist garrisons, “which,” says Master Joshua Sprigg, “like vipers in the bowels infested the midland parts.” — (‘Anglia Redi- viva,’ ed. 1854, p. 138.) Of them Basing was the chief, and on the 14th Oct., Cromwell, writing to Speaker Lenthall, was able to “thank God that he could give a good account oj Basing.” It was taken on that day, the Parliamentary troops ‘ ‘ storming it like a fire flood,” with but little loss on their part. Of those within the house 75 were killed, and 300 made prisoners ; but during the four years Basing held out, more than 2000 had fallen in skirmishes round it. Many too perished in the vaults of the house after the storm, where they were heard crying for quarter, but could not be rescued from the ruins. “ Our men,” writes Peters, ‘ ‘ could neither come to them, nor they to us.” A ‘ ‘ relation ” of the taking was made to the House of Commons by Hugh Peters, who was present at it. According to his report, the works were above a mile in compass. The Old House, a “nest of idolatry” (the marquis was a Romanist), and the New, surpassing it in beauty and stateliness, were either of them “fit to make an emperor’s court.” Both contained provisions “for years rather than months—400 quarters of wheat, bacon divers rooms full, cheese proportionable, beer divers cellars full, and that very good, Popish books many, with copes and such utensils.” In one room was a bed with its furniture which cost 1300/. What, asks Walpole, could it have been made of? But the marquis had been a lover of the arts,—“of the upholsteries,” says Carlyle,” perhaps still more.” The plunder was enormous, and con¬ tinued till night. “ One soldier had 120 pieces of gold for his share, others plate, others jewels. Among the rest, one got 3 bags of silver, which (he not being able to keep his 65 Route 6. own counsel) grew to be common pillage among the rest, and the fellow had but one half-crown left for him¬ self at last.” “ Tha wheat and the household stuff” they sold to the country people, who ‘ ‘ loaded away many carts.” Owing to neglect “in quenching a fire-ball ” the entire house was soon in flames, which left ‘ ‘ nothing but bare walls and chim¬ neys in less than 20 hours ” ; and the Commons, following Cromwell’s advice to have the place ‘ ‘ utterly slighted,” ordered the ruins to be carted away:—“whoever will come for brick or stone shall freely have the same for his pains.” Only one woman was killed during the storm, the daughter of Dr. Griffith, who, “by her railing against the soldiers ” for their rough carriage towards her father, ‘ ‘ pro¬ voked them into a further passion. ” Thus fell “ Loyalty,” a name by which Basing House was known among the royalists, from the motto of the Paulets, “ Aimez Loyautt ,” which it is said the marquis had himself written with a diamond in every window. A Puritan scandal, repeated on many other occasions, declared that the garrison was sur¬ prised at cards; and “Clubs are trumps, as when Basing House was taken,” is said to be still a Hamp¬ shire saying. Peters carried to the Commons the marquis’s colours, the motto on which was ‘ ‘ Donee pax redeat terris ,” “the very same as King Charles gave upon his coronation money when he came to the Crown.” Cromwell’s letter was ordered to be read in all pulpits the Sunday following, and a thanksgiving offered. Among the prisoners were — beside the mar¬ quis himself, whose life was saved by Colonel Hammond, the Parliament¬ ary officer carried prisoner to Basing a day or two before the storm, and Sir Robert Peake, who commanded the garrison under him—Inigo Jones the architect, who was carried away in a blanket, having lost his clothes ; and Hollar the engraver, who pub¬ lished a view of Basing House, now very rare (it is reproduced in a reprint of “The Siege of Basing [ Hants.'] — Basing. Castle,” 1644, which can be pur¬ chased of J acob, bookseller, Basing¬ stoke). Thomas Johnson the bota¬ nist was mortally wounded. Six Romish priests were also among the killed, and Robinson a player, who after he had laid down his arms was shot by the fanatic Harrison, with the words “ Cursed is he that doeth the Lord’s work negligently. ” Fuller the Church historian, after Lord Hopton’s defeat at Cheriton, took refuge at Basing, and complained that the noise of the cannon dis¬ turbed him whilst at work on his ‘ Worthies,’ and describing the “troutful streams” and “natural commodities ” of Hampshire. After such a destruction it is no wonder that the remains of Basing House are but slender. The Parlia¬ ment declared that it might be a quarry, and it was never restored. In digging the canal, which occu¬ pies the site of the moat, and has obscured the outer works, skeletons, cannon-balls, coins, &c., were found in great numbers. The principal remaining fragment of the old house is the N. Gate-house, of brick, of the 16th cent., the ivy covering of which half conceals the 3 swords in pale, the bearing of the Paulets. Round about are a few brick walls, ivy- covered, the great mound of the keep, and terraces overgrown with brush¬ wood. An old chalk pit, N. of the village, is still known as Oliver Cromwell's Dell , and a field near the bridge over the canal is called “Slaughter Close.” Of the fate of the plunder, which is said to have exceeded 200,000/. in value, little is known. Mrs. Cromwell, the Gene¬ ral’s wife, is reported to have had a voracious appetite for such “pretty things,” as well as for Westphalia hams and similar articles with which “the middle sort” presented her; and many of the marquis’s treasures are said to have found their way to her hands. Not far from tlie ruins of Basing House is tlie fine *Ch. of Basing, with a triple line of red-tiled roof, and broad red-brick 17 tk-cent. tower, F 66 'Route 6. very conspicuous from tlie Illy. Both nave aucl chancel are flanked with wide aisles of equal length, forming a complete parallelogram. The nave arcades are lofty, of Transitional character, but like the E. and W. tower arches are of brick and plaster, which seems to indicate a 17th-cent. rebuilding, or at any rate a restoration. The N. and S. tower arches are Norm., and the lower part of the tower also. The nave aisles are good Perp., but the N. doorway, E. E. or early Dec., is retained. The chancel opens N. and S. to two fine chantry chapels. The N. chapel, according to the inscription over the W. arch of it, was built by Sir John Paulet (1519) ad laudem Xti et Mariee matris ejus , but this probably refers only to its dedica¬ tion, the work being c. 1480-1190. The S. chapel is later, early lGth cent. Two altar-tombs on either side divide the chapels from the chancel: N., Sir John Paulet and Eleanor his wife(1488),and Sir John Paulet and Alice his wife (1519); S., Sir Wm. Paulett, 1st Marquis of Winchester, and John, 2nd Mar¬ quis (1576). Narrow doorways open between the tombs, in each of which is a small squint. The besieged Marquis, the 5th, is not buried here, but at Englefield in Berks. In the chapel are mural monuments to the six Dukes of Bolton, that to the 6tli and last Duke, Admiral of the White (1794), being by Flaxman. Lavinia Fenton the actress, who married the 3rd Duke (see Hack- wood, post), is buried at Basing. The helmets on the walls are of no value. In the nave are a wooden pulpit and a Perp. octagon font. Over the W. window outside is a niche with a figure of the Virgin and Child. How this was allowed to remain with Cromwell so near, meditating, as we are told he did the night before the storm, on the verse, “ They that make them are — Basing . like unto them,” is a mystery. Near it is a remarkable grotesque. The Ch. suffered considerably at the siege of Basing House. After the Restoration the tower was repaired, the arcades recased, and the windows reset, all in brick, and in very good work for the date. The Ch. was restored in 1874 by T. jET. Wyatt. The interior effect is very stately, but much too cold and bare. There are some interesting ex¬ cursions N. of Basingstoke (besides the very important one to Silchester , Rte. 7), especially to the Sherbornes and The Vine (this is the correct spelling, and “Vyne” merely an absurd modern attempt at archaism). The Ch. of Sherborne St. John (2 m.) is interesting. It has a brick tower and copper-covered spire. A late Perp. S. porch covers a plain Norm, doorway, over which are effigies of the porch builders, James Spyer and wife (1538). The nave has wide Perp. arches. The font is Trans.-Norm., a square bowl scal¬ loped, on a circular stem with shafts. The pulpit was “ made by Henry Sly, 1634.” In the aisle is a book¬ stand with some chained books. On the E. wall of the sanctuary is a monument with good bust of Richard Atkins (1635). Between the chancel and the N. chapel is a fine altar-tomb with effigies of Ralph Pexsall, in chain armour, with feet on a pair of gauntlets, and Edith Brocas of Beaurepaire, his wife. In the chapel are several interesting Brasses: (1) on wall of arch, Raulin and Margaret Brocas (c. 1360), with French inscription; (2) on slab, Bernard Brocas, in tabard, with skeleton below, and mutilated Lat. inscr. (c. 1490); (3) on slab, John Brocas and two wives with families (c. 1490); (4) on same slab, John Broca3, kneeling, with Holy Trinity (1492); (5) on Route 6.— Monks’ Sherbot me. 67 wall, William Brocas, kneeling: (1510). 1 m. N.E. is the beautiful and historical house called “ The Vine,” a name variously derived from the possible vineyards existent here, and from the uncertainly placed Roman station of Vindomis. It has been since the Commonwealth the pro¬ perty of the Chute family, who derive their name from the Forest of Chute in this district, but is now occupied by F. D. Leyland, Esq. It was long the seat of the Sandys family, the head of whom was raised to the peerage in 1523 (see Holy Ghost Chapel, Basingstoke, ante), from whom it was purchased by Clialoner Chute, Speaker of the House of Commons during the Commonwealth. The house, a long;- fronted brick building on low ground, was originally built by Lord Sandys in the early part of the 16th cent., but was greatly altered by Inigo Jones and his son-in-law Webb. It has a tine long picture gallery, and very effective staircase. Readers of Horace Walpole’s letters will re¬ member the occasional comparisons of Mr. Chute’s “Vine” with his own g“ Strawberry,” not always to the advantage of the former. The Cha/pel, however—the work of the first Lord Sandys, who founded the Chapel of the Holy Ghost at Basing¬ stoke—met with Walpole’s decided approbation. “At the Vine is the most heavenly chapel in the world; it only wants a few pictures to give it a true Catholic air.” ... “ I carried down incense and mass-books, and we had most Catholic enjoyment of the chapel.” This still remains, with its richly carved stalls, and its stained glass, brought from Boulogne by the second Lord Sandys after the capture of the town in 1514. The lower compartments of the windows contain the figures of Francis I. and his two wives, attended. by their tutelar saints. The flooring-tiles were brought from Urbino. Notice a fine old alms- box, and the great lock of the door. The Mausoleum adjoining the chapel was built by John Chute, the friend of Walpole. It contains an altar-tomb, with a fine effigy of his ancestor, Chaloner Chute, Speaker of the House of Commons (1659), sculptured by Banks, after a portrait by Vandyck , still preserved in the house. In the ante-chapel is a Last Supper by Ferretti , given by Horace Walpole. There are some other portraits of interest at the Vine. The Bark is well timbered. Beyond is Beau- repaire Park; see Bramley (Rte. 7). Monks’ Sherborne, 1 m. W. of Sherborne St. John, has also a Ch. of some interest, restored in very good taste, mostly Norm, and early Dec. At the W. end is a sort of narthex with wooden belfry. There is a fine wooden N. porch, in which is a Norm, doorway with plain tympanum, retaining traces of colour, and door with good iron¬ work. The chancel arch is Norm., and Norm, mouldings are built into the E. wall. The bowl of the font, with waved outline, on which are heads, is peculiar. The chancel is Perp., the pulpit Jacobean. On a mural brass is the will of Thomas Sympson, 1674, directing the distribution of a charity “on the feasts of St. Thomas the Martyr and St. Thomas a Becket.” The observance of the latter day at this date is very noticeable. 2 in. N. is the chapel of a small Benedictine Priory, founded (c. 1120) by Henry de Port, and afterwards attached to the Abbey of Cerisy (diocese of Bayeux) in Normandy, suppressed in 1416, granted by Edward IV. to the “Domus Dei” at Southampton, and now belonging to Queen’s College, Oxford. ° In f 2 68 Route 6 .—Haclcwood Park. 1847 the priory chapel was restored by Sir G. G. Scott as a parish Ch. for the scattered parish of Pamber, which has no Ch. of its own. It contains an altar-tomb with a cross- legged effigy in carved oak, pro¬ bably one of the De Ports. The present ivy-clad Ch. consists of the Norm, central tower and the choir of the monks. There are several interesting coffin-slabs of monks. In the heath country, beyond this arc several remote villages, but none of them have churches of much importance. Tadley Ch. has a good oak pulpit, dated 1650. Baughurst Ch., which has been mostly rebuilt, has a late Perp. screen, said to have been given by Abp. Warham. Wolverton has a cruciform red¬ brick Ch., interesting as being, it is said, the work of Wren himself. Hannington has a small Ch., part of which is ancient. Ewhurst Ch. has been rebuilt. Ewhurst Manor House (Gen. Lord Alex. Russell) is in a park with a lake of 11 acres. Beyond these places is the Kings- clere district (Iite. 9). The chief point of interest S. of Basingstoke is Hackwood Park (the property of Lord Bolton, now occu¬ pied by Mrs. Hoare), about 1| m. S. of the town. The original name is said to have been “Hawk Wood,” and the site of the present house was occupied by a sort of “ sylvan lodge,” to which the hawking party retired after the sports of the day. This Hawk Wood was the property of the Paulets, and some time after the destruction of Basing House the Marquis of Winchester much enlarged the lodge here, and made it his occasional residence. The pre¬ sent house was built, from a design by Inigo Jones , by the 1st Duke of Bolton (son of the famous marquis), about 1688, which date appears on various parts of it. The hall con¬ tains some good carvings by Gib¬ bons. Of the pictures , the most in¬ teresting are full-length portraits of the marquis who defended Bas¬ ing, and of his 2nd wife, who was with him during the siege, and kept a journal of all the proceedings. (His first wife, the daughter of Lord Savage, had the honour of an epi¬ taph by Milton, and of an elegy by Ben Jonson.) In front of the house is an equestrian statue of George I., given by himself to the Duke of Bolton, to whom he also presented the marble pillars sent to Charles II. by the Grand Duke of Tuscany, and originally destined for his palace at Winchester. In the grounds, Spring Wood should be visited, where the ivy has been allowed to grow unchecked, and hangs from the highest branches of the beech-trees, in long festoons, like those of a tropical creeper. There is also an amphitheatre, bounded by a wall of elms, with a lawn of fine turf for a stage, and grassy seats rising in successive elevations at the back. It is on a somewhatgiganticscale,yet reminds us not unpleasautly of the “ green plot ” stage and the “ hawthorn brake” tiring-room of Master Bottom and his companions. A marble- paved room in the French garden is said to have been the favourite music hall of Lavinia Fenton, the original “ Polly Peachum ” of the “ Beggar’s Opera,” who married the 3rd Duke of Bolton. The park, of 700 acres, was, according to tradition, at one time connected with Basing House by two long avenues of chestnut- trees. It is picturesque and much varied, and abounds with noble trees, among which are some very ancient whitethorns, and contains about 500 head of deer. Cliddesden Ch., outside the park, W., is almost wholly modern, but on the old site. Winslade Ch., between the two large parks of Hackwood and Her- riard, was the rectory of Thomas 69 Route 6.— Wot ting. Warton, who often refers to it. It was nearly rebuilt in 181G, but has some monuments. 5 m. from Basingstoke the fine large park of Herriard House (F. M. E. Jervoise, Esq.) contains 1100 acres and is well timbered. The bouse is of Queen Anne date. Herriard Ch. is on the W. side of the park. It lias some Trans.-Norm. and E. E. work, fragments of stained glass, an aumbry and piscina, and some carved panels. Tunworth Ch., at the N.E. corner of the park, has been mostly rebuilt, but lias a low Norm, chancel arch. Upton Grey Ch., 1J m. E., is Norm, and E. E. In this parish are Upton Grey House (Sir It. B. Martin) and Hoddington House (Lord Basing), Georgian, but recently enlarged. Weston Patrick Ch., S., was rebuilt by T. H. Wyatt. Further W., Farleigh Wallop, 44 m. from Basingstoke, is named from the great Wallop family, an¬ cestors of the Earls of Portsmouth, from whom several villages near Andover are named. They ac¬ quired this manor by marriage with the heiress of the De Yaloynes in 1414. The Ch., which is cruciform, was built about 1750, but has a modern tower. The Portsmouth family vault is here. In the ch.-yd. is a fine yew. At Farleigli House (Mrs. Routli) Sir Henry Wallop entertained Queen Elizabeth in 1591. It was burnt down in 1G61, but rebuilt by the 1st Earl of Ports¬ mouth about the same date as the Ch. at Ellisfield, 1 m. S.E., which is said to derive its name from iElla, King of the South Saxons. The Ch. is mostly E. E., with modern tower. A little S.W. of it is a circular camp, almost over¬ grown with wood. Nutley Ch., beyond, is of no interest. From Basingstoke to Winchester the lily, passes through the centre of Hampshire, a somewhat dreary chalk district, with very little to attract the tourist on either side. About 49| m. the little village r of Worting, with a modern Ch., is seen on N., soon after which the Rly. to Salisbury branches oft' rt. (Rte. 8). 1 m. further the Rly. cuts through the park of Oakley Hall (W. W. B. Beach, Esq., M.P.). The churches in this district offer little or nothing to tempt the archaeologist. They are almost always of flint, with stone dressings. At 52J m. there is a pleasant view on E. of the Ch. and village of Steventon, the birthplace, in 1775, of Jane Austen, whose father was rector there for more than 40 years. The old manor-house is now converted into stables. 1J m. E. is the rebuilt Ch. of North Waltham, which has a Perp. font, taken from Popliam Ch. Dummer Ch., 1| m. further, is mostly E. E., with Perp. W. porch and wooden belfry; it has a low- side window. The wooden pulpit and a curious wood canopy are Perp. There is a brass with rhym¬ ing inscription for William Atmore of Dummer, 1593, “Comptroller of the Chamber of London for above 50 years.” George Whitfield was curate of Dummer when he began his ministerial life, and, as he tells us, “ mourned like a dove ” for his Oxford friends. Near the Ch. is the old manor-house. Some very ancient burial urns were found near Dummer Clump, and are in the Museums of Southampton and Reading. Kempshott House (Sir R. N. Rycroft, Bart.) in this parish was built about 1774, but has been much added to. It was a hunting- box of the Prince Regent. At 54 m. we reach the highest point of the line, 392 ft. above the level of Waterloo Stat. The rise has been very gradual throughout the whole distance. E. of the line, shortly before reaching Miclieldever 70 Route 6 .— Micheldever. Stat., and before passing through the two tunnels, is seen Popham Beacon (460 ft.), of no very striking appearance, but commanding a wide view over all this part of Hampshire. The Wiltshire hills are seen N.W., and E. rise the chalk downs be¬ tween Alton and Alresford, far more attractive than the country through which we are now passing. Popham Beacon, on which are several tumuli, is worth a walk from the Michel¬ dever Stat., from which it is distant about 1 \ m. The road called “ Pop¬ ham Lane ” was the Roman road, almost as straight as an arrow, from Winchester to Silcliester. Popham was the home of the ancient family of which Chief Justice Popham (see Littlecote, II. Bk. for Wilts') was the most distinguished member. The Ch. was built by the late Lord Ashburton. Woodmancote Ch., 1 m. S., was built in 1856, but improved in 1897. Beyond the short tunnels we reach 58 m., Micheldever Stat., 3 m. N. of its village. It is on the road from Andover to Basingstoke, and in the early days of railway was called Andover Road Stat. Michel¬ dever Ch. has a good Perp. tower. The Ch. was almost rebuilt by Sir Francis Baring at a cost of 10,000b in 1806. The central part is an octagon, of which the E. bay forms the chancel, with a hand¬ some marble reredos, by Colson , of Winchester, 1883; also a monument to Lady Baring, with alto and bas- reliefs by Flaxman, which deserve notice ; and a statue by Boehm. Over the monument hangs a flag belonging to H.M.S. Captain , on board which the Hon. A. T. N. Baring, a midshipman, perished with nearly all the crew, Sept. 7, 1870. A memorial clock-tower has also been erected in the village. The chalice, 1703, was given by Rachel, Lady Russell. 2 m. S.E. of Micheldever Stat. is Stratton Park (Earl of Northbrook), once famous for its superb collection of pictures, formed by Sir Francis Baring, and still possessing a good one, mostly formed by the present Earl. The manor belonged, from a very early period, to Hyde Abbey at Winchester, and at the dissolution became the property of Sir Thomas Wriothesley, Earl of Southampton, in whose family it continued until the marriage of Rachel, one of the daughters and co-heiresses of the last Lord Southampton, to the unfortunate William Lord Russell, who was beheaded in 1683. From his family it passed by purchase into the hands of Sir Francis Baring, designated by Erskine “ the first merchant of the world,” who almost rebuilt the house and greatly improved the grounds. There are some long and very fine avenues in the park, one of which is still known as Lady Rachel’s walk. The Marquis de Ruvigny, the 1st and only Earl of Galway, cousin of Rachel, Lady Russell, died at Strat¬ ton Park, 1720. East Stratton Ch., S. of the park, is good modern Perp., by T. G. Jackson. A cross in the park marks the site of the old Ch. The Rly. now runs nearly due S., in one place on an embankment 100 ft. high, and thus commands a view on W. of three or four villages on the banks of a tributary of the Test, Hunton , Wonston, and Stoke Charity , which can be reached from Sutton Scotney Stat. (Rte. 9). An intrenched camp, known as Nosbury Bings, is about 1 m. W. At Weston Farm swords, spear¬ heads, knives, and other ancient objects have been found, marking the site of some skirmish in ancient times. Emerging from a long cutting in the chalk, we pass over an embank¬ ment, rt. of which rises Worthy Down, on which is the Winchester racecourse. Then the G. W. Rly. Route 6 .— Winchester. 71 f rom Didcot and Newbury to Win¬ chester is crossed, and at the same point the line from London by Alton and Aldershot (Rte. 5) falls in on 1. 662 m., WINCHESTER Stat. The S. W. Stat., on Station Hill , at the end of Jewry Street, is at the N.W. coiner of the city, and about 1 m. from the Gr. W. Stat., Cheese- hill Street, at the opposite corner. WINCHESTER. INDEX. PAGE 1. History.71 2. Tlie Cathedral.74-89 City Cross and St. Lawrence Ch. . 74 The Close.74, 87 3. The College.89-94 Kingsgate and St. Swithun’s Ch. . 89 4. Wolvesey Castle.94 5. Other Churches, &c.95 6. Guild Hall, High Street .... 96 7. Hyde Abbey.97 8. West Gate—Hall of the Palace—• The Castle ....... 97 Excursions :— (а) St. Cross .... 100-104 (б) St. Catharine’s Hill . . .104 (c) Chilcomb.104 (d) Week, Crawley, &c. . . . 104 (e) The Worthys.105 (/) Hursley.106 Winchester, one of the great his¬ torical cities of England, covers the side of a hill arising from the valley of the Itchen, and running west¬ ward; the Cathedral, and some of older portions of the city, occupying a space of level ground on each side of the little river. 1 . History of Winchester. The tourist who is making any¬ thing like a thorough study of the famous city, should by all means pro¬ cure Dean Kitchin’s charming little volume, ‘Winchester,’ in the ‘His¬ toric Towns Series’ (price 35. 6 d. ; to be had at the booksellers here). A British city no doubt existed here before the arrival of the Romans, the situation, nearly at the point where the Itchen ceased to be navi¬ gable, resembling those of other Celtic towns in different parts of Britain. Its Roman name, Venta Belgarum, has been variously ex¬ plained ; but is most probably a Latinisation of the Celtic word “ Gwent,” i.e. Champaign, the general name of the downs west of the great Andred’s wood. ‘ ‘ There seem to have been several of these Gwents in Britain ; and the Romans obtained their names for the capital towns by turning Gwent into a feminine substantive, and then adding the name of the race which inhabited the particular district, as, Venta Belgarum, Venta Icenorum, Venta Silurum, &c.”— Guest. Venta Belgarum was a place of consider¬ able importance. Roman roads (whose course is for the most part followed by the railways) connected it with Portus Magnus (Portchester), Clausentum (Bittern, near Southamp¬ ton), Sorbiodunum (Salisbury), and Calleva (Silchester). The town itself contained temples to Apollo and Concord, occupying the sites of the present cathedral and its adjacent buildings. Roman altars and other remains have from time to time been found here ; and at least one Chris¬ tian church existed in it at the time of its taking by the Saxons. This occurred in the year 495, when Cerdic and his son Cynric landed at the head of the Hamble Creek, and speedily established themselves within the walls of the old Roman city. In their hands “Venta” be¬ came a feminine substantive, Wint-e, gen. Wint-an ; and the town itself, Wintanceaster, or Winte-ceaster, “ the city of the Wint-e,” Win¬ chester. — Guest. Winchester seems to have been for some time occupied by the Saxons merely as a fortress in the midst of a hostile country ; since it was not for 70 years after the landing of Cerdic that the Britons of Hants and Berks were finally subdued. It then became the ‘ ‘ proper constitu¬ tional capital” of the kingdom of Wessex : and it was here that Biri- nus, the first Apostle of Western 72 Itoiite 6 .— Winchester. England, was received, when in 635 (38 years after the coming of St. Augustine) he converted the King Kynegils and all his people to Chris¬ tianity. The succeeding kings of Wessex were crowned and buried in the cathedral, which was now begun, and finished in the days of Kynewalh, son of Kynegils; and as Wessex gradually became predominant over the other king¬ doms, the importance of Win¬ chester rose with that of the state. Here Ecgberht, with the consent of his 7 vitan, imposed the general name of England (Anglia) on all the king¬ doms he had united under his sway. It was here that Alfred sat in the midst of his “ witan,” and sent forth many of his laws. During the reign of /Ethelstan 6 mints were established in Winchester (London had but 3). Eadgar (959-975) made the ‘ ‘ Winchester measure ” the stan¬ dard throughout his dominions ; and it was in the cathedral of Win¬ chester that (if Rudborne’s testi¬ mony is to be received) Cnut hung up the crown which he refused to wear after the famous scene on the seashore with his courtiers. Cnut’s numerous benefactions to the church here were probably made, as else¬ where, in expiation of the Danish ravages to which Winchester had more than once been exposed. It was here, while sitting at table with Edward the Confessor, that the great Earl Godwin was seized with the fit of apoplexy of which he died. Among the old Saxon traditions, which, side by side with those of King Arthur and his knights, gathered about the ancient capital of Wessex, was a story that, whilst the city was besieged by the Danes in the reign of ./Ethelstan, a single combat, which was to decide the event, took place in a meadow outside the eastern gate (the place is still pointed out), between Guy of War¬ wick, the Saxon champion, and a gigantic Dane named Colbrand. Like Valerius Corvus in his fight with the Gaul, Earl Guy was assisted by a friendly crow, which fluttered about the Danish giant, and assisted in his overthrow. The host of the Northmen withdrew accordingly. A turret projecting from the city wall (now destroyed) was long called “Athelstan’s chair,” and said to have been the place from which he overlooked the combat. After the conquest Winchester still continued to be one of the cities in which the king “wore his crown” during the great yearly festivals. Many of our early sovereigns went through the rite of coronation at Winchester. William the Conqueror was crowned here for a second time in 1069, Stephen on his usurpation in 1135, and Richard I. in 1194, after his return from his German prison. During the siege of the city, under Bp. Henry of Blois, by the Empress Matilda in 1141, a fire destroyed the greater part of it, including, it is said, 40 churches and 2 abbeys. After her flight the Londoners with the king’s troops sacked what re¬ mained ; ‘ ‘ after ruining and pil¬ laging houses and cellars, and not a few churches, all returned home, carrying with them a quantity of costly spoil, and a multitude of pri¬ soners. Gesta Stephani. In 1184 the city was incorporated by Henry II. In 1207 Henry III. was born here ; he spent a considerable part of his minority in the city, and by its name he was commonly known. In 1213 his father, John Lackland, was here formally reconciled to Abp. Langton and the prelates with whom he had quarrelled, and at the chapter-house received absolution from the metro¬ politan. In 1265 Winchester was sacked by the younger De Montfort during the Barons’ War. After the fall of De Montfort it obtained a re¬ duction of its fee-farm rent in conse¬ quence of its “poverty and ruined state ” ; but this did not compensate it for the injury that it received when Edward I. abandoned it as a royal residence. Up to this time the trade of Winchester had rivalled that of London. A great fair, the original licence for which was granted to Bp. Walkelin by the Conqueror, was annually held on the hill of St. Giles (across the Itchen, beyond Eastgate Bridge, where, in 1076, Earl Waltheof was beheaded for conspiring against 73 Route 6 .— Winchester. Ihe Conqueror), which, owing to the close vicinity of the port of South¬ ampton, attracted merchants from every part of Europe. For several centuries the fair of Beaucaire, on the Rhone, was the only rival of that of Winchester. (Hudson Turner .) The hill was divided into streets of booths, named after the merchants of the different countries and districts who exposed their wares in them, as the street of the Flemings, of Caen, of Limoges, and of the Genoese, as well as after the commodities sold, as the drapery, the pottery, the spicery, the stannary, &c. The transaction of business was strictly prohibited at Southampton, and every place within 7 leagues of the city. The passes through the great woody districts, which merchants coming from London or the West would be compelled to traverse, were on this occasion carefully guarded by mounted “sergeants at arms,” since the wealth which was being conveyed to St. Giles’s Hill attracted bands of outlaws from all parts of the country. A parliament was held in the city in 1285, when the ordinances known as “the Statutes of Winchester” were passed. Winchester attained celebrity in very early times as the seat of weaving and drapery in general. Camden and others assign to the textile fabrics of this city an antiquity coeval with the Notitia Imperii. According to Sir Matthew Hale, the woollen cloth trade princi¬ pally flourished in the reigns of Henry II. and Richard I., and de¬ clined in subsequent reigns. From 1 333 to 1363 Winchester was the “staple,” or general wool-mart of the kingdom ; but its importance as a place of trade had already much declined, and by the reign of Henry VIII. its manufacturing and com¬ mercial prosperity were gone. (See Smirke, ‘ Consuetudinary of Win¬ chester,’ Arch. Journ ., vol. ix.) It still, however, received numerous royal visits. Taylor, the water poet, in 1623, found it “like a body without a soul,” with “almost as many parishes as people.” The marriage of Henry IV. with Joan of Navarre, Duchess of Brittany, was solemnised in the cathedral, Feb. 7, 1403. In 1415, Henry V., before his departure for Agincourt, received the French ambassadors in the castle, and feasted them at the royal table. Prince Arthur, son of Henry VII. and Elizabeth of York, was born here in 1487, and received his name in accordance with the old traditions of the place, as well as with the assumptions of his father, who, anxious to set forward every possible claim to the crown of England, professed to be descended from Cadw'allader, ancestor of the great British chieftain. Henry VIII. and the Emperor Charles V. were here together in 1522 ; and James I., who had been proclaimed here by the sole authority of the sheriff, Sir B. Tichborne, anticipating the com¬ mands of the privy council, in 1603. Winchester was taken, with the exception of the castle, by the troops of Sir William Waller, after the fight at Cheriton in 1644 ; and in the following year the castle sur¬ rendered to Cromwell himself, Oct. 6, 1645, after a siege of 8 days. (See Cromwell’s letter giving an account of the affair, Carlyle, vol. i. 251.) Hugh Peters, who brought the letters, received 50/. ‘ ‘ for his good news.” His own verbal narra¬ tive may be read in Sprigg, p. 41, ed. 1854. In little more than three years later Charles I. passed through Winchester on his way from Hurst Castle to Windsor, whence in a few weeks he was led to the scaffold at Whitehall, and the mayor and cor¬ poration waited on him with an address of condolence^ After the Restoration Winchester received a final gleam of royal favour, the open downs and fine hunting country w r hich surround it having induced Charles II. to begin building a palace here, designed by Wren, only part of which was finished at his death, and which is now burnt down ; and though Prince George of Den¬ mark, who visited Winchester in 1707, accompanied by Queen Anne, was so charmed with the neighbour¬ hood as to propose to finish the palace, death again interrupted the 74 Route 6 .— Winchester. design. From this time the town, which had been fearfully devastated by the plague in 1666, decreased both in size and population ; and the main sources of its prosperity were, and still are, the cathedral establishment, and the famous school founded by William of Wykeham. The county business is still trans¬ acted here ; and the city returned two M. P. ’s from the time of Edward I. till the Redistribution Act of 1885, under which it has but one. It has had but few eminent natives for its long history, but among them may be mentioned Wolstan, Bp. of Wor¬ cester, Dean Pace, Bp. Bilson, one of the revisers of King James’ Bible, and Dr. Lingard, the Roman Catho¬ lic historian of England. 2. **The Cathedral. (a) History, (b) West Front, (c) Nave, (c?) Font, (e) W. Chantries. (/) Choir. lg 0 Tomb of William Rufus, (/t) Tower, (i) Presbytery. (J) Mortuary Chests. (7c) Feretory. (7) N. Transept, (m) Lady Chapel, (ft) E. Chantries. ( 0 ) S. Transept. (p) Crypt. ( 5 ) Close. (?•) Deanery, (s) Library. This is, of course, the first point to which attention should be directed. The tourist will find his way to it from the S. W. Stat. by descending Jewry Street into High Street (the “ Cyp,” or “ Cheap Street/’ of Anglo-Saxon charters), to the City Cross, toward the centre of the High Street. This is a beautiful specimen of the early 15th cent., restored in 1865 by Sir G. G. Scott. It was actually sold to the Paving Commissioners in 1770, but was fortunately saved by the indignation of the townspeople. The only old figure, apparently a king, is probably Henry VI. The “ piazza ” here, with overhanging gables and barge - boards and moulded ridge-tiles, is very pictur¬ esque. An archway by the Cross leads into the N.W. corner of the Close. At the entrance of the Close, nearly buried in houses, is the Perp. Church of St. Lawrence, of little interest. It is commonly said to be the mother church of Winchester, on slight evidence ; but a bishop on his enthronement always rings the bell of St. Lawrence, a custom dating from Norman times, when the bishop went to the royal palace to which this Ch. was attached. (a) The architectural history of the cathedral has been treated at length by the late Professor Willis , in an admirable paper read at the meeting of the Archaeological Institute at Winchester in 1845, and published in their vol. of Proceedings for that year. The visitor who desires fuller information than can here be given should refer to that volume. Tradition assigns the building of the first Christian church at Win¬ chester to the British King Lucius, the same shadowy monarch who is also said to have been the founder of the church at Canterbury assigned to Augustine by /Ethelbert. This primitive church, with the monas¬ tery attached to it, was, it is said, destroyed during the persecution under Aurelian, and reconstructed A.D. 293, “by the faithful,” in honour of St. Amphibalus, one of those who then suffered, though some have denied his personal ex¬ istence, and converted him into the abbot’s amphibalum or cloak. (There is a shrine of St. Amphibalus in St. Alban’s Abbey.) Cerdic, the founder of the kingdom of Wessex (519), converted this church, says the old chronicler, into a “temple of Dagon,”and it was entirely removed by Kynegils (635), on his conversion by Birinus. Kynegils granted “the whole of the land for the space of 7 m. round the city,” long known as Barton Manor, for the support of the monks, who were again established here. A church was now begun, and completed by Kynewalh, son of Kynegils, by whom, on the division of the see of Dorchester, founded by his father Kynegils, Winchester was made an episcopal see, 662. Succeed¬ ing bishops, especially St. Swithun (852-862) and Aithelwold (963-984), Route 6 .— Winchester. 75 greatly enlarged and repaired this cathedral church, which, at its dedi¬ cation after the completion of the works of the latter bishop, was con¬ secrated to SS. Peter and Paul. Here were interred most of the Saxon kings of Wessex. King Alfred, and some of his successors, were first buried in the cathedral, and then in the new Minster, founded by King Alfred himself as a burial-place for his family, only a few yards N. of the present cathedral, whence their bodies were removed to Hyde Abbey. Here, too, King Cnut the Dane was laid to rest, having already offered his crown before the high altar. The great patron of the church and of Win¬ chester was the sainted Bp. Swithun, whose relics were removed from their original place of sepulture before the N. door of the nave, and placed by his successor, PEthelwold, in a golden shrine of the richest workmanship. Edward the' Confessor was crowned in this Saxon church ; and in its nave, according to an old tradition, his mother Emma, who had been accused of incontinence, underwent the ‘ ‘ fiery ordeal,” and passed safely blindfold, over nine red-hot plough-shares. Of this cathedral no portion re¬ mains. It is thought to have occu¬ pied a site somewhat N. of the present building, and the N. transept possibly covers a part of the old foundations, but it may have been further E. Following the custom of the Norman bishops, Bp. Walkelin (1070-1098) began a new cathedral ‘ * from the foundations ” in the year 1098. For this work the freshwater limestone of Binstead, in the Isle of Wight, and the oaks of Hampage Forest, were used ; see the story in Rte. 5, Hampage Wood. It was completed in 1093, when the monks entered it in solemn procession ‘ ‘ in presence of nearly all the bishops and abbots of England.” The shrine of St. Swithun, and other relics, were removed into the new cathedral; and the old church was then entirely pulled down. Bp. Godfrey de Lucy (1189-1204) made considerable addi¬ tions to the eastern part of Walkelin’s cathedral; and Bp. Edingdon (1346- 2-366), besides other works, began the reconstruction of the nave, which was continued by his successors, Wykeham (1367-1404), Beaufort (1405-1447), and Waynflete (1447- 1486). The present cathedral con¬ sists of these recorded works, ranging from Walkelin to Waynflete, together with others of less importance, whose history is not so certain. The dimensions of the Cathedral are:— ft. in. Extreme length from E. to W. . . 555 8 Extreme breadth at transepts . 208 0 Length of nave. 0 Breadth of nave and aisles . 86 0 Height of nave. . IS 0 Length of choir. 0 Height of tower. 0 The length of Winchester exceeds that of any other mediaeval Cli. in the world; St. Albans (548 ft.) being next, and Ely (587 ft.) third. The longest church in the world is St. Peter’s at Rome (613 ft. 6 in.). The visitor should by all means enter by the great western door. The effect of the great length, 390 ft. of which (as far as the end of the choir) are visible from the W. door unbroken by the organ, which is placed under the N. tower arch, is in the highest degree grand and impressive. The stringcourse of corbel heads, and the light balustrade of the triforium in the nave, should here be noticed as aiding remarkably the general effect. ( h ) The W. front, restored 1860, is the work of Bp. Edingdon, c. 1360, and is fairly good early Perp., but of a character better suited for a large parish church. The absence of western towers, and of any elaborate screen to compen¬ sate for them, deprives it of fitness for its great position. Above the door is a balcony for episcopal bene¬ dictions. Figures of SS. Peter and Paul formerly occupied the taber¬ nacles between the porches; and a modern statue of William of Wyke- 76 Boute G.— Winchester. liam appears hi the niche at the top of the- gable above the window. The ancient figure, supposed to be St. Swithun, is preserved in the Feretory. (c) The Nave “exhibits one of the most curious instances of transfor¬ mation from one style of architec¬ ture to another that has been pre¬ served to us ; for although at present a complete and perfect specimen of the 14th and 15th cents., it is yet in the heart and core of its structure, from the ground to the roof, the original Norman build¬ ing commenced, if not completed, by Bp. Walkelin.”— Willis. “It is perhaps the most beautiful nave of a Oh. either in England or else¬ where, wanting only somewhat in¬ creased dimensions compared with its length.”— Fergusson. Bp. Walke- lin’s Norm, nave extended about 40 ft. in advance of the present one. This extreme western portion seems to have been in a ruinous state when Bp. Edingdon (1345-1366) pulled it down, and built the present W. front, with the great window and porches, together with the two first bays of the nave on the N. side, and one on the S. A careful examination will show many differ¬ ences between this part and the rest of the nave. The two first windows, for example, in the N. aisle, are of a different design, far inferior to those beyond them. “They are singularly heavy, and from the ex¬ treme depth of their exterior mould¬ ings have a most cavernous and gloomy appearance.” The heads of the panels and lights in Edingdon’s work also differ from those of the rest of the nave. The points of the cusps in the first are ornamented each with a small leaf; in the other work they are plain. The design of the great W. window is very simple, “ reducing itself to the merest stone grating.” The glass with which it is filled was, it is said, collected from different parts of the building after the destruction of the rest by Crom¬ well’s troops. It is, however, “ un¬ doubtedly the earliest Perp. glass in the cathedral, and may be the work of Bp. Edingdon,” like the window itself.— C. Winston. On either side of the W. door are statues of James I. and Charles I., by Le Sueur. Edingdon’s work was continued by his successor, William of Wyke- liam (1367-1404), who purchased for this purpose the stone-quarries of Quarr, in the Isle of Wight, from which Walkelin had originally built the cathedral. He began the transformation of the nave from Norm, to Perp. “ I use the word advisedly, instead of rebuilding , for the Norman core still remains in the piers and walls up to the parapet, and in many places the Norman ashlaring as well.”— Willis. Thus the 8 westerly piers on the S. side retain the Norm, ashlaring, upon which the new mouldings have been wrought. The Norm, arches still remain behind the triforium; Norm, shafts remain above the present vault; and on the outside of the clerestory the Norm, masonry and flat buttress may be seen running up between the Perp. windows. In the S. side aisle part of the lower extremity of a Norm, shaft appears, having probably been covered by some shrine or altar-work. The Norm, shafts and capitals remain in situ in the second bay from the crossing on the N., where they were hidden by the rood-screen, and therefore left unaltered. For ample and most interesting details of the very curious manner in which the original Norm, work was partly cut away, and partly worked into the new Perp., the tourist must be referred to Professor Willis’s paper. The nave should be compared throughout with that of Canterbury, which was in building at the same time. There, however Route 6.— Winchester. 77 the old Norm, nave was entirely- pulled down, and the pier arch mouldings are consequently much lighter, and the piers more slender, than those of Winchester. Both naves have lierne vaults ( i.e . with cross-ribs not rising from the impost), the invention of which has some¬ times been ascribed to Wykeham, but which were really in use long before his time. The balcony above the pier arches at Winchester, which serves for a triforium, beau¬ tiful in effect, was to some extent a necessity arising from the thick Norm, wall, which had to be dealt with and disguised. The design of the windows throughout the nave (except Edingdon’s) is very elegant and peculiar, and should be specially noticed. The great iron hooks be¬ tween the piers were used for sup¬ porting the tapestry with which the church was decorated on high festivals. At Wykeham’s death, in 1404, the S. side of the nave was completed, and the N. begun. The works were carried on and finished by his two successors, Cardinal Beaufort and Bp. Waynflete (1405-1486). Less of the original Norm, work seems to have been worked into the walls on the N. side than by Wykeham on the S. On the bosses of the vault of the nave, and on the tablet under the triforium, appear the arms and busts of Wykeham, the device of Cardinal Beaufort and his father (the white hart chained), and the lily of Bp. Waynflete. At the W. end of the N. aisle is a square stone gallery, called the Tribune. It is part of Edingdon’s work, and was intended to serve as a gallery for minstrels on extra¬ ordinary occasions. The episcopal registers are now deposited here. In the aisle below is a door of very early iron grill - work, probably 12tli '"cent., which formerly closed the S. choir-aisle from the S. transept, to protect the shrine of St. Switliun. (d) The black marble Font, in the N. aisle of the nave, is now known to be late 12th cent., pro¬ bably of the time of Bp. Henry de Blois, and of Belgian work. (See paper by Dean Kitchin, Journ. Brit. Arch. Assoc. I., 1.) It should be compared with those at East Meon (Rte. 3), St. Michael’s Church, Southampton (post), and St. Mary Bourne (Rte. 8). There are only three others of the group in England, Lincoln Minster, Thornton Curtis, Lincolnshire, and St. Peter’s, Ipswich. All were apparently the work of the same sculptors. The designs on the four sides of the Winchester font are partly baptismal symbols (the salamander and the drinking doves), and partly repre¬ sent events from the life of St. Nicholas of Myra—(1) restoring the nobleman’s son from drowning; (2) giving back life to the poor students murdered by an innkeeper ; (3) giving dowers to an impoverished nobleman’s daughter. The nave pulpit on the S. side is a wooden structure in the Jaco¬ bean style. It was formerly in the chapel of New Coll., Oxford, but was strangely given by the Warden and Fellows to Dr. Charles Mayo, formerly a Fellow, and pre¬ sented by his family to the cathe¬ dral in memory of his sister, who died in 1884. (e) On the S. side of the nave, and near the choir, is Bp. Edingdon’s Chantry (1345-1346), the first of a very fine series of chantry chapels contained in the cathedral, most of which were erected during the life of the persons by whom they were founded. This chantry was, how¬ ever, altered when Wykeham re¬ modelled the piers against which it stands,—and is later in style than 78 Route 6.— Winchester. Edingdon’s genuine work. Eding- don is said to liave rejected the archbishopric of Canterbury; and upon that occasion to have used the well-known saying, “ Canterbury is the higher rack, but Winchester the better manger.” Opposite to Edingdon’s chantry is the base of Bp. Morley’s Altar-tomb, never erected, bearing an epitaph com¬ posed by himself in his 80th year. On a small brass plate on the pier to the W. is an interesting inscrip¬ tion to the heroic Col. Boles, killed with 60 of his men in Alton Oh. (Iite. 5). Edingdon’s chapel is of inferior design and interest to the Chantry of William of Wykeham (1404), which occupies the entire space between 2 piers of the nave, on the same side, lower down. It is now adorned with statues given by old Wykehamists in memory of the 500tli anniversary of the College foundation. They were executed by Mr. Erampton, A.It.A., under the direction of Mr. Micklethwaite. This chantry, like the College, was happily saved from outrage, owing to the Parliamentary Colonel, Nathaniel Fiennes, being an old Wykehamist. This chapel, to which Wykeham refers in his will, was built by him on the site of an altar dedicated to the Virgin, his especial patroness, the mass at which he had always been accus¬ tomed to attend when a boy at school, and which stood, it is said, “ in that part of the cross precisely which corresponded with the pierced side of the Saviour.” (This, how¬ ever, is hardly the case, even allow¬ ing for the extra length of the Norm, nave.) The design of Wyke- ham’s chantry is very beautiful; and it is one of the best specimens remaining of an early Perp. monu¬ mental chapel. The foundation of the altar is still visible. The bishop’s effigy, the “ comeliness ” of which, it has been suggested, may have induced Anthony Wood to describe him as having a “ courtly pre¬ sence,” reposes on an altar-tomb in the centre, arrayed in cope and mitre. The pillow at the head is supported by 2 angels. At the feet 3 monks are represented offering up prayers for the repose of the' de¬ parted soul. (They are said, but questionably, to represent Wyke- ham’s 3 assistants in the cathedral works—William Wynford, his archi¬ tect ; Simon de Membury, his sur¬ veyor of the works ; and John Wayte, comptroller.) The tomb is kept in repair by the members of the great bishop’s two foundations “of St. Mary Winton,” Winchester College, and New College, Oxford. The W. window of the S. aisle is filled with stained glass, in memory of the officers and men of the 97th who fell in the Crimea, among whom the name of Hedley Vicars will be read with interest. Their colours are affixed to the wall on either side of the S.W. door. Among the monuments in the S. aisle, commencing from the W., remark those of the wife of Bp. Nor Hi, by Flaxman ; of Dr. Wart on, head master of Winchester College (d. 1800), with epitaph by Dr. Parr, by Flaxman , and graceful in design, although the boys whom the doctor is instructing must have been chosen for their peculiar ugliness; Bp. Tomline (d. 1820), by Richard West- macott,jun.; Dean Clieyney (d. 1760); Bp. Willis, by Cheere (d. 1734), with the head, contrary to custom, to the E.; Sir George Prevost (d. 1816), by Cliantrey. Against the pier nearest the choir door, on the N. side, is a medallion of Bp. Hoadly (d. 1761), exhibiting Magna Charta side by side with the Bible, and the cap of liberty jostling the pastoral staff. Opposite to the font in the N. aisle is the monument of the famous Mrs. Montague, foundress of the Blue-stocking Club, and the chim- Uoute 6.— Winchester. 70 ney-sweeper’s friend (d. 1800); and here is a plain memorial slab to Jane Austen , the novelist, 1817, with a brass in honour of her on the wall. (/) From the nave we pass into the Choir, through an oak screen designed by Sir G. G. Scott, as a memorial of Bp. Wilberforce and Dean Gamier, which has taken the place of a stone screen formerly standing there. On the N. side is placed the jewelled pastoral staff of the bishop ; and the central arch is fitted with gates of metal work. The choir itself consists of the E. bay of the nave, the old choir of the monks, under the tower, and the 'presbytery beyond it. This portion of the cathedral is of various dates ; the tower itself, late Norm. ; the piers and arches of the presbytery, Dec. (by Bp. Edingdon, about 1350); the clerestory, Perp.; the screen, late Perp. (the work of Bp. Fox, about 1524); the vaulting of the presbytery is also the work of Bp. Fox; the ceiling under the tower dates from 1634. In the centre of the choir now stands the plain sarcophagus, with coped Purbeck marble cover, which has been claimed as the Tomb of William Rufus, in spite of the in¬ scription on the mortuary chest in the presbytery. The king’s body, after his death in the New Forest (Rte. 14) was, we are told by William of Malmesbury, brought by ‘ ‘ certain rustics ” in a cart ( rheda cabcillaria) to Winchester, the blood dropping from the arrow- wound throughout the whole dis¬ tance, and buried in the choir, within the circuit of the tower. Though the fall of the tower soon after was regarded as a judgment for the in¬ terment of such a man in so sacred a place, his tomb seems not to have been removed, for it is spoken of as still under the tower, as Malmesbury had stated, by Rudborne, who wrote c. 1440. This tomb, however, was in front of the high altar. Its posi¬ tion being of late years found very inconvenient, it was determined to remove it, but first to ascertain whether it contained the remains of the king, or was a mere cenotaph, for an old tradition asserted that they had been transferred elsewhere by his nephew, Henry de Blois. The examination was accordingly made, Aug. 27, 1868, in the presence of the Ven. Archdeacon Jacob and others, and the remains of a man apparently 5 ft. 8 in. high were found, which had evidently been before disturbed, the bones being thrown together in a promiscuous manner. From frag¬ ments of each found, it was inferred that the body had been clothed in a red cloak embroidered with gold thread, and swathed in lead ; there were also a dozen pieces of wood, from 2 to 3 in. long, and two pieces of iron, which together formed an implement a yard long, but whether a sceptre or an arrow, opinions differed. Beside these things, a turquoise as large as a haricot bean, and a small ivory carving of some creature’s head (possibly a serpent’s), were found. These are preserved in the Cathedral Library, but all the rest were care¬ fully replaced, and the tomb was then moved to a position between the Beaufort and Waynflete chan¬ tries, but was again removed more recently to its present situation in the choir, most probably the exact spot of the original interment. A full report of the examination was drawn up, the result of which is thus stated : ‘ ‘ We have here almost a conclusive proof of the truth of our constant and cherished tradition, that the remains of the Red King are in their ancient resting-place.” But according to Gale, the tomb was violated by the Parliamentarians, who, he says, found in it a large sapphire ring and a silver chalice, beside human remains. There is no reason to doubt Gale’s statement, and, if it is correct, it must be the tomb of a bishop, pro¬ bably Henry de Blois himself, on whom Rufus is thus avenged. 80 Route 6.— Winchester. ( [h ) The Central Tower, the enor¬ mous piers of which at once attract attention, is the successor of that of Walkelin, under which William Rufus had been buried; and many thought, according to the old chro¬ niclers, “that the fall of the tower was a judgment for his sins, since it was a grievous wrong to bury in that sacred place one who all his life had been profane and sensual, and who died without the Christian viaticum.” The great size and massiveness of the piers are probably owing to the panic caused by the fall of their predecessors. “ They are at present most unwieldy and intrusive, from their excessive size and awkward squareness of form, and are the largest tower piers in England in proportion to the spans of the arches that rest on them.”— Willis. The very narrow arches opening to the transepts should be remarked. It is not uncommon in churches with a central tower to give the greater span to the arches opening E. and W., in order to leave the view from one end to the other of the Ch. unobstructed, but the system is here carried to a very unusual excess. The tower was originally a lantern, but was ceiled in the reign of Charles I. In the centre is an emblem of the Trinity, surrounded by the sentence, “ Sint Romus liujus pii reges nutritii, re- ginse nutrices pise ” (Is. xlix. 23). The letters painted red form the date 1634. Medallions of Charles I. and Henrietta Maria, with their arms and devices, also appear on this ceiling. The Choir-stalls, which extend from the eastern tower piers to the first pier of the nave, are of oak, as black as ebony, and exceedingly rich and beautiful in design. “ They are early Dec. work, and their canopies and gables bear considerable re¬ semblance to those of the tomb of Edmund Crouchback inWestminster Abbey.”— Willis. This would place their date about 1296. The desks and stools in front of the upper range bear the initials of Henry VIII., Bp. Stephen Gardiner, Dean Kings- mill, and the date 1540. The rich pulpit on the N. side bears the name of its donor, “ Thomas Silkstede, prior ” (c. 1520), on different parts of it. The Bishops’s throne is modern, from a design of the late Mr. Gar- bett. The organ, a very fine one, which figured in the Great Exhi¬ bition of 1851, and has recently been enlarged and improved, by Willis, is placed under the N. transept arch. (i) Passing into the Presbytery, we find the piers and arches are Dec., the extreme eastern portion (the N. arch and the eastern arches) dating from about 1320, the rest from about 1350 (Bp. Edingdon). Bp. Lucy’s work, beyond the presby¬ tery, E., to be afterwards noticed, had been already completed; and the new work of the presbytery was connected with it in a manner worth notice. It may be examined at the back of the raised platform beyond the reredos. The magnificent Great Screen or reredos, which rises behind the altar, 43 ft. 9 in. high by 39 ft. 5 in. wide, is of the same character as those in St. Alban’s Cathedral, St. Saviour’s, Southwark, and Christ¬ church Priory (Rte. 13). It is of the end of the 15th cent., and must have been finished by 1501, the date of the roof above it. It has doors on either side of the altar, and a passage on the top opening only to the clerestory of the S. side. The principal parts of the ancient carving remaining are the beautiful tabernacle-work of the top, with a projecting central spire, and the four interesting spandrils of the doors representing the Annunciation and the Visitation. Houte 6.— Winchestef . 81 'This screen was in a fearfully mangled condition, and denuded of all its statues (probably by order of Bp. Horn, 1560-1580), until, in 1884, a fund started as a memorial to Archdeacon Jacob was given a wider scope; and, after many difficulties, the renovated screen, in something like its original beauty, was dedi¬ cated at the enthronement of Bp. Thorold, March 3, 1891. The total cost was 5,400L The architects were, at first, J. D. Sedding, and after¬ wards G. H. Kitchin. Of the statues, 56 in all, 36, including most of the finest ones, are by T. Boulton , of Cheltenham; others by Nicholls , Geflowsld, and Miss M. Grant. For fuller study of this fine collection of modern sculpture a monograph on the screen by Dean Kitchin (Warren, Winchester ), should be procured. Above the altar is a tolerably good picture of the Raising of Lazarus, by West. The east window of the choir, best seen from the part under the tower, is filled with Perp. glass a little earlier than 1525, and is the work of Bp. Fox, whose arms and motto, “ Est Deo Gratia” are intro¬ duced in it. “ The only part of the glass, however, now in its original position, consists, as I think, of the two figures which occupy the two southernmost of the lower lights, and of that in all the tracery lights, except the top central one and the three immediately below it. The top central light is filled principally with some glass of Wykeham’s time, and all the rest of the window with glass of Fox’s time, removed from other windows.” “In point of ex¬ ecution it is as nearly perfect as painted glass can be. In it the shadows have attained their proper limit. It was at this period that glass-painting attained its highest perfection as an art.”— Winston. The presbytery is closed at the [ Hants .] sides by screens of stone tracery, mostly erected by Bp. Fox (1500- 1520), and bearing his motto. There are also the initials of Cardi¬ nal Beaufort, with his motto, “In Domino confido”; and the initials W. F., with his motto, “ Sit Laus Deo,” belonging to some unknown contributor. The date 1525 also occurs here. O) Upon these screens, on either side and under each pier arch, are placed the very remarkable Mor¬ tuary Chests (also the work of Bp. Fox, but restored after the great rebellion), containing the bones of West Saxon kings and bishops, originally buried in the crypt of the old Saxon cathedral, and removed into Walkelin’s church by Bp. Henry de Blois, who, it is said, mingled the bones together, since there were no inscriptions on the old monuments by which kings could be distinguished from bishops. By him they were placed in leaden sarcophagi. The present chests, six in number, are of wood, carved, painted, and gilt, and in the style of the “ Renaissance,” which was beginning to appear in England in Fox’s time. The names in¬ scribed on the chests are (begin¬ ning from the altar on the N. side, and returning to it on the S.)—1. Kynegils (first Christian king) and Eadulph (or Ethelwulf, father of King Alfred), kings. 2. Kenulph (or Kenwalli, son of Ky¬ negils) and Egbert (the so-called consolidator of the Anglo-Saxon monarchy), kings. 3 and 4 (oppo¬ site each other), Cnut and Rufus [almost certainly an error, ante]. Queen Emma, and the Bps. Wini and Ahvyn. 5. Edmund, king, perhaps Edmund Ironside. 6. Edred, king. The chests were broken open during the rebellion, and the con¬ tents, in the words of Evelyn, who wrote in 1685, “scattered by the sacrilegious rebells, and afterwards G 82 Route 6.— Winchester. gathered up again, and put into new chests ”; hence it would be unsafe to rely on the identity of the contents of each chest, although the visitor may fairly believe that the actual relics of the West Saxon kings are laid up within them. On the S. side near the altar is a tomb of Caen stone erected in 1887 in memory of Bp. Courtenay, of Winchester, who died in 1492. The top is the lid of the leaden cist in which the remains were buried. The timber vaulting of the pres¬ bytery is also the work of Bp. Fox ; and displays on its bosses a mass of heraldry, besides (at the E. end) the various emblems of the Passion, to¬ gether with a number of faces, re¬ presenting Pilate and his wife, Herod, Annas and Caiaphas, Judas, Malchus with the sword of Peter dividing his ear, Peter himself, and many others. All are curious, and are best seen from the tri- forium. ( 1c ) On either side of the altar a door in the screen opens to the space behind the reredos, forming the polygonal part of the choir, standing on the foundations of the Norm, apse. This was the Feretory, a place for the feretra or portable shrines of the patron saints ; and before the construction of the reredos it must have been visible from the extreme western end of the Ch. This arrangement of the shrines, at the back of the high altar, was the usual one, both in England and on the Continent. At the E. end of the feretory is a raised platform, 7 ft. broad, and extending quite across. It was originally much higher than at present; and “ in front are the remains of a hollow place, which, from the piers and other in¬ dications that remain on the floor, evidently had an arcade in front of it.” On this platform was no doubt the shrine of St. Switliun, and that of St. Birinus, who converted Kynegils. Smaller relics were possibly dis¬ played in the arcade below. There is a vault beneath the platform, called “ the Holy Hole,” to be after¬ wards noticed. St. Swithun , Bp. of Winchester from 852 to 862, was a great bene¬ factor to the city as well as to the cathedral, and was regarded as the especial patron of both. His re¬ mains were originally interred, by his own desire, in the ch.-yd.; and a small chapel was afterwards erected in his honour outside the N. door of the nave of the earlier Ch. It is traditionally asserted that the re¬ moval of his relics from his grave to their golden shrine was pre¬ vented by 40 days of continued rain; hence the popular belief that if St. Swithun’s day (July 15) be marked by a fall of rain, “ twice twenty days shall clouds their fleeces drain” ; or, as the old rhyme ran: “ St. Swithun’s day, if thou dost rain, For forty days it will remain ; St. Swithun’s day, if thou be fair, For forty days ’twill rain na mair.” It is obvious, however, that no conceivable weather could have hindered the translation of St. Swithun’s remains from their rest¬ ing-place, near the W. door of the Cathedral, to the shrine, for more than a few hours at most. The tradition arose, doubtless, from the violation of his curious direction to be buried “where passers-by might tread on his grave, and the rain from the eaves might fall upon it.” A similar legend in France and Belgium attaches to St. Gcrvais (June 19). (Z) We now enter the North Transept, where the visitor at once finds himself carried back to the days of Bp. Walkelin. With the exception of some of the windows, which are Dec. insertions, all here is plain and rude Norm.: massive and grand in effect, and very im- Route 6.—- Winchester. 83 pressive. The arches, both of trifo- rium and clerestory, are square edged, like the pier arches below them ; “ hence arises the peculiarly simple and massive etfect of this part of the church.”— Willis. Both transepts have E. and W. aisles; and in addition, at each end, “ an aisle which rises only to the pier arch level, and consists of two arches only, which rest in the middle on a triple bearing shaft instead of the compound pier which is employed about the rest of the work.” This kind of gallery is rare in England, but not unusual in the churches of Normandy. Both transepts are of two periods, the earlier part being indicated by the plain groined vaults and smaller piers; the later having ribbed vaults, and piers (those towards the N. and S. ends) which have been en¬ larged to strengthen turrets that once flanked the transepts, of which a fragment remains externally in the half-arch at the N.E. angle of the W. transept. The earlier part is no doubt Bp. Walkelin’s (1070-1098), and is, together with the crypt, the oldest portion of the Cathedral. The later dates from about 1107, when the central tower was rebuilt. The transepts should be compared with those of Ely Cathedral (the work of Walkelin’s brother Simeon), with which they are nearly identical. “ It is worth observing, in comparing Winchester and Ely, the contemporary works of the brothers Walkelin and Simeon, that they were both erected on different sites from their previous Saxon churches, and moreover, that the central towers of both of them fell in after ages, Walkelin’s in 1107 (?), and Simeon’s in 1321.”— Willis. In this transept is the altar- tomb with effigy, a somewhat daring attempt by Chantrey , of the Rev. F. Iremonger , Prebendary of Win¬ chester (d. 1820). Under the organ- loft, fronting the transept, is the Chapel of the Holy Sepulchre; the walls of which are covered with rude wall-paintings of the 13th centy., illustrative of the Passion, and of the martyrdom of St. Thomas of Canterbury. They are curious although coarse paintings, and deserve notice. They are well described in the Winchester volume of the Archaeological Association. Ascending the steps from the transept, the N. aisle of the pres¬ bytery is entered, the N. side of which is Perp. The view beyond this, on entering the extreme eastern portion of the church, is very striking. From more than one point, seven chantries and chapels, each one the last resting-place of a prelate whose name was once a “ tower of strength,” are visible at once. “ How much power and ambition under half-a- dozen stones ! ” wrote Walpole. “ I own I grow to look on tombs as last¬ ing mansions, instead of observing them for curious pieces of archi¬ tecture.” The attention, however, should first be directed to the architecture of this eastern portion. With the exception of the extreme E. end of the central or Lady Chapel, it is throughout the work of Bp. Godfrey de Lucy (1189-1201), and conse¬ quently a very early example of E. E. The design and details are of great beauty, and deserve the most careful notice. The 3 aisles or alleys (called “procession paths”) are separated from each other by 3 arches on each side, and terminate eastward in chapels. “ The peculiar arrangement of these low eastern aisles may be compared with those of the cathedrals of Hereford, Salis¬ bury, Chichester, St. Alban’s, Wells, and Exeter. Of these Winchester is the most extensive, and Hereford the earliest.”— Willis. All these aisles were formed in order to facilitate the circulation of proces¬ sions. An arcade passes round the ground wall. In the N. aisle stands G 2 84 Itoute 6.— Winchester. an altar-tomb with 41. E. effigy, doubtfully assigned to Bp. Peter cle Bupibus. The N. Chapel (part of De Lucy’s work) is called that of the Guardian Angels, from the figures of angels, still remaining in the vaulting. Bp. Adam de Orlton (d. 1345), is said to have established a chantry here. On the S. side is the fine tomb of Weston, Earl of Portland, Charles I.’s Lord High Treasurer (d. 1634) ; the bronze recumbent statue is by Le Sueur, who modelled that of Charles I. at Charing Cross. Oppo¬ site is the tomb of Bp. Mews( d. 1706), with a crozier and mitre, but not his, suspended above it. Against the N.E. wall of the aisle, outside the chapel, is a half figure holding a heart, traditionally said to represent Bp. iEthelmar,half-brother of Henry III., whose violence and rapacity are said to have excited the storm against the Poitevins which led to his expulsion from the country, by the Parliament called by Earl Simon at Oxford, 1258. He died in Paris, 1260, but his heart was brought to this church. The newel staircase at this angle, and the passage to it, deserve notice from the singular excellence of their workmanship. ' (m) The Lady Cliapel is singu¬ larly mixed in style. The N. and S. walls, as far as the E. walls of the 2 side chapels, are De Lucy’s work, and retain his rich E. E. arcade. u The eastern compart¬ ment on each side, as well as the E. wall, have respectively a large Perp. window of 7 lights, with transom and tracery of a peculiar kind of subordination, or rather interpene¬ tration of patterns, well worth a careful study. The vault is a com¬ plex and beautiful specimen of lierne work.” The capitals and bases of the vaulting shafts are unusual, and very beautiful. The carved panelling of the western half of this chapel, the seats, desks, and screen of separation, are all excellent, and should be noticed. All this Perp. work is due to Prior Hunton (1470- 1498), and his successor Prior Silk- stede (1498-1524). On the vault, round the 2 central keys, one repre¬ senting the Almighty, the other the Blessed Virgin, are the rebuses of the 2 priors : the letter T, the syl¬ lable Hun, the figure of a ton, for “ Thomas Hunton,” and the fig. 1, for (t Prior ” ; the letter T, the syl¬ lable Silk, a steed or horse, and the figure 1, for “ Thomas Silkstede, Prior.” The walls of this chapel are covered with the remains of some very curious paintings illus¬ trating the legendary history of the Virgin. Bern ark the procession of Bt. Gregory through the streets of Borne during the plague, bearing a picture of the Virgin, painted by Bt. Luke :—the drowning monk saved by the Virgin ;—the woman who died without confession, but, by the intercession of the Virgin, was restored to life, till she had confessed and been absolved;—the thief whom the Virgin saves from hanging :—and the painter who, when his scaffold falls whilst he is at work on the figure of the Virgin, is saved by an arm extended from the picture. These are all the work of Prior Silkstede, whose por¬ trait, with an inscription, is still faintly visible over the piscina. A modern reredos of Italian marble and alabaster was erected here by the late Dean Bramston ; by the side of it is a fine statue, but in a very inappropriate position, of Bp. North (d. 1820) by Chantrey. The glass of the E. window was inserted in memory of the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee : that in the S. in memory of Bp. Thorold, both by Kempe. The S. Cliapel (De Lucy’s work) was fitted up as a chantry by Bp. Route 6.— Winchester. 85 Langton (d. 1501). The woodwork is very rich and beautiful, and the vault most elaborate. Remark the rebuses on it; the musical note termed a long inserted into a tun for Langton; a vine and tun for his see, Winton ; and a hen sitting on a tun for his prior, Hunton. The dragon issuing from a tun is a rebus for Winton, to be explained from the Vulgate, Frov. xxiii. 31, 32. The altar-tomb here is that of Bp. Langton. Here is kept the chair or faldstool, covered with faded velvet, used by Queen Mary on the occasion of her marriage to Philip of Spain. The ceremony was performed in this chapel July 25, 1554, on the festival of St. James, the patron saint of Spain. The Marquis of Winchester and the Earls of Pem¬ broke and Derby gave the queen away, and among the great lords in Philip’s train were Alva and Egmont •—the future scourge of the Low Countries and his noblest victim. At the succeeding banquet in the episcopal palace Bishop Gardiner alone dined at the royal table. The boys of Wykeham’s College recited Latin epithalamia after the banquet, and then came a ball, “at which the English acquitted themselves well.” The modern stained glass which has been placed in some of these chapels, and in other windows, is bad, and by its hot tints rather in¬ terferes with than aids the general effect. Tn front of the Lady Cliapcl is a plain slab of grey marble which no doubt marks the tomb of Bp. de Lucy (1189-1204), the builder of all this part of the Cathedral. ( 11 ) Between the pillars are two beautiful chantries, which bear a general resemblance, but have dif¬ ferences that are worth notice, chiefly on account of their well- ascertained dates. That on the S. side is Cardinal Beaufort’s Chantry (1405-1447), the famous cardinal, whose misrepre¬ sented death-bed scene will at once occur to the memory of all readers of Shakespeare. The placid counte¬ nance of his effigy is in striking contrast to “the dark portraiture which has reached us from the poetry of Shakespeare and the pencil of Reynolds,” but has no support from real history. The death of his nephew Gloucester was not his work; and so far from “dying and making no sign,” his death-bed was peculiarly calm and collected. “ Utinarn cib alas ,” says one who witnessed it, “ mircindum, factum gloriosi et catholici viri .” ( Cont. Oroyland.) The special charge against him seems to have been his great wealth. ' ‘ Firm of purpose, fertile in re¬ sources, unscrupulous in the choice of his instruments, unbounded in the confidence he accorded them, he must be regarded as one of the first statesmen of his age, if he does not, after the 4th and 5th Henrys, stand at their head.”— E?igland and France under the House of Lancaster. Opposite is Bp. Waynflete’s Chantry (1447-1486), the beauty and delicacy of the canopy of which should be noticed; but great part of the effigy is modern. The lily is his device. Magdalen College, Oxford, which was founded by him, keeps this chantry in repair. The wall at the back of the Feretory is decorated with a scries of nine tabernacles, which are “beau¬ tiful specimens of Edwardian work, and well deserve study.”— Willis. Each tabernacle contains two pedes¬ tals, under which are inscribed the names of the persons whose images once stood on them. Beside our Lord and the Virgin, the list includes all the kings before the Conquest who were either buried 86 Route 6.— Winchester. in, or benefactors to Winchester Cathedral. The 13th-cent. effigy of a knight in chain mail here is be' lievecl to be Sir Arnold de Gaveston, father of the notorious favourite of Edward II. A low arch, under the tabernacles, opens to the vault called “ the Holy Hole ” (under the plat¬ form of the Feretory), probably from a mass of various relics which it once contained, as well as from its vicinity to the great shrine of St. Swithun. The famous shrine, de¬ stroyed at the Reformation, stood between the chantries. Its position is still traceable. Beyond the pier which connects De Lucy’s work with the presbytery, on the N. side, is the Chantry of Bp. Gardiner (1531-1555), the famous “ hammer of heretics,” “ a man,” says Fuller , “to be traced like the fox, backwards.” The Renaissance style is here mixed with Perp. Within the chantry is the tomb¬ stone of Edmund, perhaps the son of vEthelred, whose remains are in one of the chests in the presbytery. On the opposite side of the pres¬ bytery, and parallel with that of Gardiner, is the Chantry of Bp. Fox (1500-1528), the most sumptuous and elaborate, though perhaps not the best in design, in the Cathe¬ dral. It has been restored through¬ out by Corpus Christi College, Ox¬ ford, the bishop’s foundation. The pelican was Fox’s device. In an arched recess below is the “ cadaver,” wrapped in a winding-sheet. All the details, pedestals, string-courses, and niches, deserve careful attention. The series of chantries in the Cathedral begins with that of Bp. Edington (in the nave), and ends with Bp. Gardiner’s. The tourist should compare the whole series, carefully marking their dates, and ob¬ serving the gradual changes of style. The statue in a full-bottomed wig, with an amusing air of self¬ importance, against the S. wall of the Cathedral, in a line with Beau¬ fort’s chantry, is that of Sir John Clohery (d. 1686), who rendered “ ex¬ traordinary services ” in bringing about the restoration of Charles II. The S. wall of the S. aisle of the presbytery is late Perp. as far as the transept. On the opposite wall an inscription records that within it is the heart of Bp. Nicholas Ely (d. 1280), “ whose body is at Waverley and another above a marble tomb, marks the resting-place of Bichard , son of William the Conqueror. The “ Dux Beornie” of the inscription is an error. Beorn, nephew of Cnut, was also buried here; and his name was turned (in the 14th centy.) into the title of Richard. Like his brother Rufus, lie was killed in the New Forest, and his death was looked upon as one of the many judgments which befel the Norman “ lords of the chase” in that place (see New Forest, Rte. 14). (o) The S. transept , which is now entered, resembles that on the N. side in every respect, and is of the same date. In the eastern aisles are two chapels, formed by screens of stone tracery work. The S. is called Prior Silkstede’s Chapel, 1524, The lettersof his Christian name, Thomas, are carved on the cornice of the screen, the M.A. (forming the mono¬ gram of his patroness, the Virgin), being distinguished from the rest. Remark also the skein of silk, which is his rebus. The beautiful iron-work of the N., or Venerable chapel (of late character) should also be noticed. In the transept is a bench of very rude construction and simply ornamented ; it may possibly be coeval with the transept itself. Here is also the monument of Sir Isaac Townsend (d. 1731); and a plain black marble slab, in Prior Silkstede’s chapel, marks the tomb of Route 6.— Winchester. 87 another Izaak, whose name is better known, Izaak Walton (d. Dec. 15, 1083), “the prince of fishermen.” The inscription on the slab runs thus:— “ Alas ! Ilee’s gone before, Gone to return noe more; Our panting Breasts aspire After their aged Sire, Whose well-spent Life did last For ninety yeares and past; But now he hath begun That which will ne’ere be done. Crown’d with eternal blisse, We wish our souls with his.” “ Yotis modestis sic flerunt liberi.” Walton died at the house of his son- in-law, Dr. Hawkins, prebendary of Winchester. In this transept now stands the Monument of Bp. Samuel Wilberforce, who was killed by a fall from his horse in July, 1873. It consists of a life-sized effigy of the Bp. wearing his mitre and cope, with the pastoral staff. The slab is supported by 6 kneeling angels, and at the angles of the base are couchant lions. Over the effigy is a rich canopy. The architectural design is by Sir G. G. Scott, the figure by H. H. Armstead, AM. A. This monument is curiously unlike its surroundings. The ancient sacristy, in the W. aisle of this transept, is now used as the Chapter-house. S. of it is the entrance to the Slype, or S. passage, where was the “ calefactory ” for the censers, and N. of it Henry de Blois’ Treasury, now the boys’ vestry, which has a beautiful doorway. The arclneologist should visit the Roof of the Cathedral, especially that of the nave and its aisles, where ho will find the upper part of the original Norm, work remaining, though much repaired and altered, probably by Bp. Wykeham. About 15,000h has lately been expended on the roof, under the careful direc¬ tion of J. B. Colson, architect to the Dean and Chapter. The noblo lantern of the tower should also bo seen. From the leads of the tower there is a very striking view over the city and its environs. (p) The Crypts are entered from the N. transept, and extend to the eastern extremity of the Cli. Tho first two divisions arc rude Norman, of precisely the same character as the transepts, and of the same date. Like other crypts, this serves to show us the original plan of the Norm. Church, which, it thus appears, “was terminated eastward by a circular apse, round which the aisles of the Norm, presbytery were con¬ tinued : and a small round-ended (Lady?) chapel extended as far as the western arch of the present one.” All this part of the upper Church was of course removed when Bp. de Lucy’s work and the sub¬ sequent Dec. piers of the pres¬ bytery were built. The third and easternmost division is rectangular, E. E., and was built by Bp. de Lucy. The crypt itself, dark and massive, is even more suggestive of a remote age than the transepts, and contains a Roman well. (q) Leaving the Cathedral by tho western door, the tourist should pass into the Close, on the S. side, where the bright, smooth-shaven turf, and the fresh leafage, contrast finely with the worn grey stone of the Cathedral. Upon the buttress at the S.W. corner is an anagram form¬ ing the words \i ac ^tov, ambula”: and in the “ slype ” or short passage in front, another, with the date 1G32, when the slype was opened, before which the S. aisle of the nave was used as a public thoroughfare. The words here run— 88 Route 6.— Winchester. Above it is the inscription:— “ Cessit Communi proprium. Jam pergite qua fas.” The Close occupies the site of the monastic cloisters, which with the chapter-house and other buildings were taken down by Horn, the first Elizabethan bishop, in 1563. Traces of these, however, exist, and consider¬ able remains of other parts of the priory, the principal of which is the present Deanery, formerly the prior's house. The foundation consisted of a prior and from 40 to 60 monks (Benedictines). Its annual revenue, at the Dissolution, amounted to 1500Z., and was then applied to the support of the new Chapter, consist¬ ing of a dean, prebendaries, and canons. The site of the Cliapter-liouse , de¬ stroyed, according to Milner, for the sake of the lead, was between the garden of the deanery and the S. transept. It was in the chapter-house that Abp. Langton absolved King John, to whom he had been pre¬ viously reconciled on Magdalen Down ( ante ), and then, proceeding to the choir, celebrated the Eucharist, which had been suspended for six years during the interdict. The row of Norman arches , which now open to the close, formed the original entrance from the cloister. There is another arcade, tolerably perfect, on the N. side, within. (r) The entrance to the Deanery, beyond, dates from about 1250, and consists of 3 sharply pointed arches, forming a sort of vestibule to the house; they were probably connected with the cloisters. The niches above are curious, and should be noticed. The prior's hall , within the house, still remains, with a fine roof and windows, but has been divided into several apartments. It is of the 15th cent. Charles II. lodged at the Deanery during his occasional visits to Win¬ chester, whilst watching the progress of his own palace on the hill. It was on one of these occasions that Ken (then a prebendary of Win¬ chester) refused to let Nell Gwynne have his house, which had been marked for her by the king’s “har¬ binger.” A small building, it is said, was then put up for her at the S. end of the Deanery, by the courtly Dean Meggot, which was always afterwards known as Nell Gwynne’s house, and was only pulled down within the present century by Dean Reynell. The house in St. Peter Street, now the Probate Office, sometimes called hers, was really built by Sir Chris¬ topher Wren for the Duchess of Portsmouth. The house Nelly actually occupied was in Colebrook Street, near the back gate of the precinct. The king characteristi¬ cally bore no ill-will to Ken on account of his refusal; and when the Bishopric of Bath and Wells became afterwards vacant, he is said to have asked, “ Where is the good little man who refused his lodging to poor Nell?”—and to have appointed Ken accordingly. "What is now the Dean's stable , S. of the Deanery, is “a curious wooden” structure, originallv the Hospice or Pilgrims’ Hall, with its original wooden hammer-beam roof of the time probably of Edward III. It is now divided by a floor and partitions, but must have been originally one large room. The corbel heads repre¬ sent, as usual, a king (young) and a bishop. The work is of rude character, more like a good barn roof than that of a hall.”— J. II. Parher. At the S.W. angle of the cloister area, opposite to the Deanery, under one of the canons’ houses, are some vaulted apartments, said to have been the substructure of the Monks’ Kitchen and Buttery. The walls of this house are of the 13th cent., and in the S. gable is a graceful rose window, In what is now the kitchen 89 liunte 0,— Winchester. arc the carved legs of a stone table of the 13tli cent. (s) Over the passage between the S. transept and the old chapter-house is the Cathedral Library, the great treasure of which is a superbly illu¬ minated Vulgate, in 3 folio volumes. It has been usually considered the work of different periods; but Dr. Waagen is “inclined to pronounce it, judging from forms and execution, entirely the work of the first half of the 12th century.” It much re¬ sembles another Vulgate in the library of St. Geneviere at Paris, the writer of which styles himself “Manerius scriptor Cantuariensis.” This latter, however, is of the first half of the 13th century.— Waagen , vol. iv. There are several other valuable MSS. and charters, in¬ cluding one of iEthelwulf, 854, the sapphire ring from the so-called Tomb of Bufus, and other objects of interest. Bp. Morley bequeathed his books to this Library. 3. **The College. After the Cathedral, the great point of interest is the College, to which you pass from the close through Kingsgate, and under St. Swithun’s Church, turning 1. into College Street. The gate is of the 13th cent.; it has its old doors, and against it are two huge sarsen stones. The small Ch., formerly used by the monastery servants, was rebuilt in the 16th cent. Such an application of the upper part of a gateway was not uncommon. It still exists at Salisbury, Bristol, and Warwick; and the Church of the Holy Cross at Canterbury for¬ merly stood above the W. gate there. A tablet on a house in College Street, rt., marks the last dwelling- place of the novelist Jane Austen (d. 1817). Passing the new house of the headmaster, the College is entered through the great gateway. In this, rt., is the lodge of the porter, who will supply a conductor. “ The College of St. Mary of Win¬ chester” was founded by William of Wykeham in connexion with the “ College of St. Mary Winton in Oxford” (New College), in further¬ ance of a plan for the advance of learning, which he seems to have conceived long before his elevation to the see of Winchester. The school here established, preparatory to, and co-operating with, a higher course of instruction in his college at Oxford, was the first school of the sort in England , and was a most im¬ portant innovation on the old sys¬ tem, which had left all early teach¬ ing entirely in the hands of the monks. Wykeham’s example was followed by Henry VI. at Eton and Cam¬ bridge ; and by his successor, Bp. Waynflete, in the foundation of Mag¬ dalen College, Oxford. Long before this, Winchester had been known as a school of kings. There Egbert had placed his son /Ethelwulf under the teaching of Bp. Helmstan, and there the great Alfred had sat at the feet of St. Swithun. TEthelwold, whose praise was in all the churches, a true saint and scholar, was in all pro¬ bability educated there; and his biographer, Abp. Adfric, has an evident pride, near 900 years ago, in writing himself down “ Wintoni- ensis alumnus .” A small grammar-school, attached to the priory, had existed near Minster Gate; and Wykeham had himself received his early educa¬ tion there by the liberality of his patron, Sir Nicholas Uvedale. This was falling to decay, and Wyke¬ ham’s first idea seems to have been simply to re-establish and endow his own school. In 1373 (six years after he became bishop) he began his new teaching, for which he gathered his scholars under tem¬ porary roofs on St. Giles’s Hill, 90 Boute 6.— Winchester. where the school remained for 20 years. It was not until 1386 that he obtained full possession of the ground known as Otterbourne Mead (said to have been the site of the Temple of Apollo in the clays of Roman Win¬ chester), and began his college. The first stone of the chapel was laid in 1387. The buildings were com¬ pleted and occupied in 1396. The number of their occupants, de¬ termined by Wykeham himself, was symbolical. The warden and 10 fellows represent the 11 apostles, and the 70 scholars are the 70 disciples. The 3 chaplains and 3 inferior clerks are the 6 faithful deacons; Nicholas, having aposta¬ tised, has no representative. Lastly, the 16 choristers are the greater and lesser prophets. So Dean Colet, at a later period, ordained 153 scholars to St. Paul’s School in London, referring to the “ Draught of fishes.” This scriptural symbolism survives in the very curious and copious argot of the college boys. Thus the washing place is known as “ Moab,” and the shoe-cleaning place as “ Edom ” (Ps. cviii. 9) ; the under-porter always bears the name of one of the minor prophets,— Joel succeeds Hosea, and Amos Joel, in unbroken succession. Winchester College has 'received nearly all our sovereigns as visitors. Henry VI. frequently attended the chapel service, and made liberal offerings, finding here the model for his own foundation at Eton. Ed¬ ward IV., if he did not pay the scholars a visit in person, showed a kindly sympathy with boy nature by sending them down a lion to look at, Jan. 1471. When Prince Arthur was born at Winchester, Henry VII. visited the college in state, and was received in the Warden’s lodging. The society also received two visits from his burly son, accompanied on the first time by the Emperor Charles V. Some years later, when the sickly Edward VI. visited the college, he was welcomed with no less than 45 copies of Latin verses, a score more than welcomed the next royal visit, that of Mary and her Spanish bridegroom, a day or two after their marriage. Elizabeth was here in 1570, and the number of compli¬ mentary effusions rose to 40, all to be seen by the curious among the Ashmolean MSS. at Oxford. Winchester, like other schools of its sort, has two classes of pupils ; those on the original foundation, “ collegers,” and the boarders of the head and assistant masters, here known as Commoners. It has always ranked among the most eminent of the great public schools of England. Among the dis¬ tinguished persons who have been educated here are—Abps. Chichele, Warham, and Howley; Bps. Wayn- flete, Lowth, Maltby, Mant, and Wordsworth; the nonjuring pre¬ lates Turner and Ken, and Lloyd their fellow-prisoner in the Tower ; Sir Thomas Browne (author of the ‘Religio Medici’); Sir Henry Wot- ton; Anthony Trollope; the poets Otway, Collins, Young, Warton, Somerville, Whitehead,and Phillips ; Sydney Smith; Dr. Arnold; Dean Plook; the lawyers, Lord Cottenham, Chief Justice Erie, Lord Hatherley, Lord Selborne, Lord Northbrook, and many of lesser note. The buildings, for the most part of the age of the founder, form two quadrangles and a cloister, besides the houses for the commoners. Above the exterior gateway is a statue of the Blessed Virgin, to whom the college is dedicated. In the Outer court are, E., the warden’s house, a modern interpolation (the warden originally resided over the gateway between the two quadrangles, so that he could see every movement in each); N. the brewhouse; W. the warden’s stables; and S. the residence of the second master, and the gateway already mentioned. Remark the beauty and grace of Route 6 . Winchester. 91 the statues—the Virgin, the angel Gabriel, the founder, &c.—in the niches of the tower above this gate. The chief room in the tower is known as “ Election Chamber.” The original arrangements of the outer court provided for all the domestic economy of the college. Besides the brewhouse, which re¬ mains, it contained a bakehouse, malt and flour rooms, and a slaugh¬ ter-house toward the brook, E., where stands the warden’s house, built by Warden Harmar in 1579, and refronted in questionable taste in 1832, The Inner Quadrangle contains the most important buildings, and is very striking in effect. Beside the figures on the tower, remark the gro¬ tesque carvings above the windows round the court, all which have re¬ ference to the uses of the different apartments ; and the site of the conduit on the W. side, where, within living memory, the collegers had to wash under an open pent-house, at all seasons, and in all weathers. The range fronting the gate “ comprises all the most dignified offices of the college in one great outline, about 200 ft. long. The same artistic con¬ trivance (peculiar to Wykeliam’s works) is exhibited at Windsor, and at New College, Oxford, with a degree of symmetry unusual in co¬ temporary buildings of this kind. A variety of offices are combined into one imposing architectural whole, with the utmost convenience, taste, and effect, and economy of space and cost.”— C. It. Cockerell. The proportions of the Chapel, at the S.E. corner, are admirable, and the whole building will repay the most careful attention. It is ap¬ proached through a vestibule be¬ neath the hall and leading to the cloisters and ante-chapel, in which latter are placed the stalls removed from the chapel by Dr. Nicholas in 1681. It once had a fine collection of Brasses, but at the restoration in 1877 they were all stolen. Facsimiles made from rubbings have been placed in the ante-chapel, including one of Bp. White (1556-60), in cope, probably cut while he was still Warden. A fragment of the original of this brass is in the keeping of the Warden. It is a palimpsest having on the reverse the figure of a widow (c. 1440). This vestibule has been decorated by “William of Wyke- ham’s sons,” with an arcade by Butterfield, and marble tablets to the memory of their thirteen brethren who died in the Crimean war. At the entrance of the chapel itself the visitor “ will note the beau¬ tiful ceiling, and curious fan tracery in wood,” afterwards executed in stone by Close, the architect of Henry VI., in King’s College Chapel, at Cambridge. The glass in the great E. window, however, together with that in all the side windows of the chapel, is modern, w r ith the ex¬ ception of some fragments in the tracery lights. The whole was completed in 1824, and, “consider¬ ing the time of its execution, it must be admitted to be a very good copy of the old designs, which have been preserved with consider¬ able fidelity.”— C. Winston. The windows are thus still of great value, and of very remarkable beauty. Observe, in the E. window, the small figures of the carpenter, the mason, the glass-painter, and the clerk of the works (Simon de Mem- bury). The side windows are filled with figures of saints, kings, and bishops, to be recognised by their respective emblems. The reredos , executed by Eardley of Westminster, was the gift of Chief Justice Erie, and was completed in 1877. The statues represent S. Peter, S. John the Divine, S. Stephen, S. Augus¬ tine of Hippo, S. Benedict, S. Paul, S. James, S. Alban, S. Augustine of Canterbury, S. Boniface, Alfred the 92 Route 6.— Winchester. Great, and William of Wykeham. The organ was improved and rebuilt by Bishop in 1875. Wykeliam’s original chapel was the simple oblong, 93 by 31 ft., and 58 ft. high, which still forms the main chapel. To this Thorburn, the second warden, added a side-chapel, to the S.W., in 1482, above which, with more daring than wisdom, a lofty tower was erected, wholly, it would seem, at the expense of Bp. Waynflete. The immense weight of the tower, resting on the columns dividing Thorburn’s chapel, even¬ tually crushed the superstructure, and entailed its own ruin. The crazy walls were sustained for a season by the erection of a solid wall across the side-chapel; but in 1862 the whole had become so ruinous, that it was taken down and rebuilt, as a memorial to the much-esteemed Warden Williams of New College, and Warden Barter of this college, a fact recorded by its new name, “ the Tower of the Two Wardens,” as well as by the tablets in the arcade at its base. The stained window, by Waites , is a memorial of the connexion of Bp. Charles Words¬ worth with the college. At the N.E. corner of the chapel are the sacristy and muniment tower above it, both vaulted and fire-proof. The ceiling of this room is admirably groined in stone. Here have been placed the font, a gift of Bp. Moberly (once Head Master), and the tablets removed from the chapels beneath the tower. A new stone archway with iron gates forms an approach to the Chapel from the S.W. It was erected in memory of Gen. Sir Herbert Stewart, who fell in the Soudan campaign, 1885. The original schoolroom, under the hall, is now used as a dormitory. A flight of stone steps leads to the Hall, 63 ft. by 30, formerly ventilated by a charcoal fire and a lantern above. The roof is open and enriched. The dais is used for the high table at dinner on the day of the election; at other times the scholars assemble on it after dinner to sing the grace. Many of the old customs long retained here have now been judiciously al¬ tered : the square wooden trenchers are no longer used for dinner plates, and knives and forks are now supplied; each scholar formerly brought his own. The old black leather jack formerly used for beer may still be seen here. The intro¬ duction of plates has rendered the widening of the old tables neces¬ sary ; the square trenchers are still used for bread. At the entrance of the hall remark the tub, a peculiar Wykehamist institution, having for¬ merly a prefect of its own among the boys, in which the broken meat is deposited after dinner. The por¬ tions of meat dealt out are knowu as “ dispars ” ( clispertio ). From this hall a winding stair¬ case leads to the cellar in the base¬ ment, groined from a central pillar, and to the audit-room, paved with Flemish tiles (the bill for which is still in the muniment room), and hung with Arras tapestry, temp. Hen. YI. In an ancient locker, and suspended above the door, are the coats of mail which encased the “ plump of spears ” to which the warden was entitled as an escort. Over the chimney is the functior for lights during the night. In the roof above was the original Library, the door and bolt of which should be noticed. The Kitchen, the whole height of the building, is at the foot of the stairs leading to the hall. Here, in 1410, they cooked a pair of por¬ poises to feast their visitor, the Bishop. The College still brews its own beer. In the entry is the curious picture known as the Route 6.— Winchester*. 93 Trusty Servant, probably, in its present shape, of the time of Queen Anne, though Sir F. Madden has shown (Notes and Queries, vol. vi.) that a similar figure, with the same designation, was formerly painted in halls in France. The figure is compounded of a man, a hog, a deer, and an ass. The inscription runs:— “ A trusty servant’s portrait would you see, This emblematic figure well survey. The porker’s snout not nice in diet shows ; The padlock shut, no secret he’ll disclose ; Patient the ass his master’s rage will bear; Swiftness in errand the stag’s feet declare. Loaden his left hand, apt to labour saith ; The vest, his neatness; open hand, his fa ;lh : Gir t with the sword, his shield upon his arm, Himself and master he’ll protect from harm.” The remainder of this quadrangle consists of the dormitories of the scholars, 7 in number. Their ar¬ rangements are worth notice. Some few of the old oak bedsteads given by Dean Fleshmonger still remain. The beds of the scholars in old times were nothing better than bundles of straw with a coverlet. To this day clean sheets are known in college as clean straiv. To the S. of the chapel are the Cloisters, which though usually as¬ signed (together with the oratory in the centre, which was really his work) to John Fromond, Wykeham’s steward, are proved by entries in the Bursar’s accounts, brought to light by the late Rev. W. H. Gunner, to have formed part of Wykeham’s original plan, and to have been con¬ secrated by his commissary, Simon, Bp. of Aghadoe, July 17, 1396, at the same time with the chapel. The Cloisters resemble those of New College, and have long served as the college burial-place. They contain some brasses, but of no very great interest. Among the “ autographs” which decorate llieir walls are those of many distinguished Wykehamists. Not the least interesting is that of the excellent Bp. Ken, on the buttress of the N.W. corner. His friend Turner’s, afterwards Bp. of Ely, is near it. Ken was educated here, and became a fellow of the college in 1666. The Evening and Morning Hymns with which we are all familiar first appeared in the Manual of Prayers written by Ken for the use of Winchester scholars. His own organ remained for many years after his death in his room here, over the “ 3rd chamber.” The building in the centre, completed about 1430, was intended by Fro¬ mond to serve as a chantry in which daily masses might be said for the repose of those buried in the cloisters. For some time it was used as a library, but has now been restored to its original purpose, and is used as a chapel for the junior boys. The glass in the E. win¬ dow is of the time of Edward IV., and was removed here from the small chapel on the S. side of the college chapel. Above the chantry is a small room ceiled with oak, which may perhaps have been the dormi¬ tory and cell of the first chaplain. A passage between the hall stairs and the chapel leads to the Old Schoolroom and playground. The schoolroom is a plain brick build¬ ing, erected in 1687 by the sub¬ scriptions of former Wykehamists. Over the door is a bronze statue of Wykebam cast by Cibber (father of Colley Cibber), and presented by him in 1692. The room is 90 ft. by 36 ft. Remark the “ Tabula leguin” on the E. wall, and on that opposite the sentence “ Aut disce, aid discede; manet sorstertia csedi .” The devices are a mitre and crozier, the reward of learning; an ink- horn, instruments, and a sword, emblems of a civil or military life; and the Wykeham rod of 4 twigs, the.“ sors tert’a.” The coats-of-arms 94 Route 6.— Winchester. round the cornice are those of the chief contributors to the erection. What in other schools are known as 44 forms ” or “ classes ” are here termed “ books.” The oak benches on which the boys sit astride are said to have been removed from the original schoolroom. In the play¬ ground, known as Meads , is the In¬ firmary, called by its founder, Warden Harris, Bethesda , also dating from the' reign of Charles II. At the N.E. corner of “ Meads ” is “ non-licet gate,” the great oaken leaves of which bear marks which are shown as those of Oliver Crom¬ well’s shot. The buildings which were erected as the offices and apartments of the Commoners , behind the house of the head master and near the schoolroom, have now been altered into class-rooms. They were rebuilt in 1810, principally from the sub¬ scriptions of old Wykehamists, and have since been greatly improved. A certain number of the boys are annually elected scholars of New College, Oxford. Formerly only boys on the foundation were elected, a certain preference being given to founder’s kin. These privileges are now abolished, and the foundation scholarships themselves are thrown open to public competition. The election takes place on the Tuesday after the festival of St. Thomas of Canterbury (July 7), when the Warden of New College and two “ Posers” arrive from Oxford, and are greeted with an 44 ad portas ” oration by the senior scholars, and, together with the warden, sub-war¬ den, and head master, conduct the examination. This lasts for a week. On the day of election the college entertains all Wykehamists who come for the occasion ; the boys being regaled, besides other dainty fare, with an ancient dish—a kind of mincemeat—highly popular among them by the name of “studding.” The evening before the Midsummer vacation the Latin song of Dulce Domum is sung by all the boys in the courts of the college. Its origin is unknown; but tradition gives it to a boy who was detained at school during the holidays, by way of pun¬ ishment. It can be traced back for more than a century. The mediaeval hymn, 44 Jam lucis orto sidere ,” is also sung in procession round the chamber court on the last morning of the summer half-year, on coming out of chapel, by the whole body. Half-holidays, known here as “half¬ remedies ” (remissionis dies), are given on Tuesdays and Thursdays, but, by a singular exception to the general practice of schools, not on Saturdays. 4. Returning into College Street, the tourist should next visit the re¬ mains of Wolvesey Castle, which lie beyond the brook, on the opposite side of the street. The castle (the old palace of the bishops) was built by Bp. Henry de Blois in 1138. The walls of the keep, and a great part of the outer walls, are nearly perfect, and of good Norm, character. They were close to the old city wall; and probably, before that was built, themselves served as part of the ex¬ ternal defences. (The city walls themselves are of much later date.) Remark the curious string-courses in the Norm, walls, which take the place of Roman bonding-tiles, and probably served the same purpose, of bonding together the nibble wall. The interior is little more than a picturesque ruin; but there are several very perfect Norm, windows and other details which deserve examination. The chapel is Perp. Tradition asserts that the tribute of wolves’ heads exacted by King Edgar from the Welsh was delivered annually on this spot, whence its name, but the castle probably de¬ rives its name from some Ulf or “Wolf,’’ an old Saxon lord of the “ey” or island here. Part of the Houte 6 .— Winchester. 95 Anglo-Saxon Chronicle was written at Wolvesey, some of it by Alfred himself. The Castle sustained more than one long siege, and has received more than one royal visit. Here Queen Mary was lodged before her marriage ; here she received Philip of Spain ; and here, after the ceremony, the ball took place at which the English danced less “ tristement ” than usual. The castle was entirely demolished after the surrender of Winchester to Crom¬ well in 1645. Bp. Morley after the Restoration built a new palace on its site, from designs by Sir C. Wren, who was then also building the royal palace. This was pulled down, with the exception of one of the wings, by Bp. North, about 1800. Since its destruction the Bps. of Winchester have had no official house in the city, Farnham Castle (another of Bp. de Blois’ strongholds) being their diocesan residence. At the instance of Bp. Thorold, Wolvesey has been fitted up as a Diocesan Church House, for meetings, &c. 5. On the N. side of the Cathedral, beyond the close, is Bp. Morley’s College, founded by him in 1672, in imitation of that of Bp. Warner at Bromley in Kent, for the benefit of 10 widows of clergymen. Between this college and the cathedral was the original site of Hyde Abbey , then called “ the Newan Mynster,” founded by King Alfred as a last resting-place for himself and his successors. He was himself buried here, and the buildings were com¬ pleted by his son Edward the Elder. In the reign of Henry I. the Abbey was removed to Hyde Meadow (post). Passing into the jHigh Street, a short distance below, rt., is St. Mau¬ rice’s Church, a poo - modern build¬ ing, retaining the old Perp. tower, a Norm, doorway, and an old sun¬ dial. At the lower or E. end of the High Street, 1. is St. John’s Chapel, late E. E., with a triple lancet at the E. end, belonging to the hospital of St. John, said traditionally to have been founded by Bp. Beornstan (d. 934), but really founded by Richard Devenish (1289), for the reception of sick and lame soldiers and other necessitous travellers. It has been restored by Street. The hospital now consists of several neat red-brick houses, erected 1852, inhabited by 46 almspeojile. Built into the wall is a head of Christ, with a nim¬ bus (14th-cent. work), erroneously called the head of John the Baptist in a charger. In the large hall are portraits of Col. Brydges, of Aving- ton, by whose bequest the rooms were fitted up, the first Marquis of Winchester, &c. The site of the East gate is now an open space, with a Russian gun in the centre, and surrounded by good modern houses. The Soke Bridge, which here crosses the Itchen, stood beyond the old E. gate. The first bridge was built here by St. Swithun, who once miraculously restored the eggs in an old woman’s basket which had been rudely broken by the workmen. St. Giles’s Hill, which rises oppo¬ site the bridge, was the scene of the great fair of Winchester, so famous during the early part of the middle ages (see History, ante). A. relic of this great fair still survives, and is held on St. Giles’s Day, O.S. (Sept. 12). Here is the G. W. Rly. Stat. A more important fair is held on St. Mary Magdalen’s Hill, further E., on her festival (Aug. 3, O.S.). The hill has a wide stretching view. On N. is the site of the ancient hospital, harried by the king’s troops in the great rebellion, 96 Route 6 .— Winchester. dismantled by the Dutch prisoners sent here by Charles II., in 1G65, and pulled down by Bp. Thomas in 1778. For views of the very interest¬ ing Trans.-Norm. buildings see Vetusta Monumenta , vol. iii. The gateway of it now forms the en¬ trance to the Rom. Cath. Chapel in Peter’s Street, and beside it is a huge sarsen stone. Near is the ground of the great Magdalen fair, still held, though on a very reduced scale, at which the master of the hospital is entitled to hold a booth for his own sole use and profit. This hill was a frequent encampment ground of the last century. It was on Magdalen Hill that the reconciliation between John and Abp. Langton and his suffragans took place, July 20, 1213. The king fell prostrate at the primate’s fl»et, who raised him, and the united parties marched through the city to the chapter-house of the cathe¬ dral, where the king received abso¬ lution. St. John’s Street, the 2nd turning 1. beyond the bridge, leads to St. John’s Ch., which the arcliteologist will find worth a visit. It lias portions from Trans.-Norm. to Perp. The plan is very unusual, the aisles being wider than the nave, and the E. wall, following the line of the old road, not being at rt. angles to the N. and S. The arches are Trans.-Norm. (c. 1150)'; the walls and roof corbels E. E. (the latter deserve notice). The tower is Perp., and projects at the end of the S. aisle, giving the W. front a remarkably picturesque appear¬ ance. A tall Perp. screen runs across nave and aisles, and the two sides of the chancel are inclosed by wooden screens of the 14th cent., which should be remarked. On each side of the chancel arch (with¬ in the screen) are squints, one look¬ ing from the S. aisle toward the altar, the other toward the Easter sepulchre in the N. aisle. The niche by the piscina is of an unusual form. The Easter sepulchre is at the E. end of the N. wall, and has on it shields bearing the emblems of the Passion. Near the E. end of the S. wall is a good early Dec. window. The fragments of painted glass in the S. windows are of the 15th cent. The pulpit is Perp. Traces of wall-paintings were found here. The Ch. has an old chalice and paten. Before returning to the city, St. Peter’s Ch., Cheesehill (A.-S. ceosel = gravel), may be visited (in the street which opens nearly oppo¬ site to St. John’s Street). The plan is nearly a square, with no distinct chancel. The nave is divided from the aisle by 3 Trans.-Norm. arches with massive pillars. Remark the curious E. E. window in the ringing-loft (the lower part of the tower is Norm.), the Dec. niches at the end of the aisle, and the roof corbels. The windows at the E. end of the Ch. are Perp. Cheesehill Street, in which is a’good 15th-cent. timbered house (restored), will conduct us by Wharf Hill, Wharf Bridge, and College Walk, to Wolvesey and the College. Lower down the Itchen on the 1. bank is Vomum Wharf, where stood the legendary Domum Tree . 6 . In the lower part of the High Street stands the handsome Guild Hall, built in 1873 by Sir G. G. Scott. It is of Bath and Mansfield stone, in Dec. style. In it is a good portrait of Charles II., by Lely, presented by him together with four silver-gilt maces, on receiving the freedom of the city. Near it is a Public Garden, on the site of St. Mary’s Abbey. In them is a bronze statue of Queen Yictoria, 1887, by A. Gilbert, A.B.A. The Museum (open every week¬ day, 10 to 4), built 1897, con- ZlJv) xq.ftonH* o. i car c ; IlydeSch r^NaJJ, V\ Hiqhfield l^iWihol.ojnew'/ ,'Oronn d 5 x.; 5 *Roebuck Inn 1 l/red $ GATKJ HYDE AJiBF.Y ; Kenuu/zs of Jfydt Abbey Do- G OO Os IRA U.WAV 'STAtr&M FISH ! OM) ■'/.V Dutton S!Martjjis Olimph / \ 0 Tf // Laurel ibtb^H } Fulflno m’ByileJBrewery \V?>iRttx)n*ari Morel r " "fJ'emalc hJteTufre /// \ ! union \ / AVorkkouse i mi all DANKMARK MEAD i-Ttcramy GasWorlcs ‘'A ' ORAMS ARBOUR & >Wi 3 b r j Mount/*j m 4^ 91*il Ho. ■■* ;/ Holv^W / /// Trinity Ch/ GasWork# j l7u«' Vjvi W llcq<' p Town S^Thoinas/-£*/ c* ^ -^5 ChurcH ^ * Royal — | County Hospital Cathedral Jt Officers ,Quarters M Cerneter• > 'sTOaES’SHILL ’/station- :S- j-L ill Spvet gl felE'R OTIEESIEMillLIL irritCh^^^ ectory J Plcuy (Arctunf \ hi Diocesan Training, 'Deanery Close WOESESBT CASTLE MLchaclst Sett, i I friary lecto/yQ .¥Cv V. SEY NVm.VfcSEY PALACE, tVIl Saints t ti Milntht ii l vet'’s Cl o s e •* ' a S’. Mirii ael s Ch. j j S. Swithun: IPILAF (OF THE CIT Y ofWI N C1 i E S T E R ST -VM A.Tt V S CO W.E c r PRECI N C ,/Infu-nutri' I From the Ordnance Survey Scale 1 10560 , 6 Inches to L Mile, 880 Flip 1 Inch Euiqsqate\ 1 KoA l /2 M 1 LE 'Z 500 FfcET 2000 1500 lOOO London . John Murray. AILeraarle Street — IV . • m I ■ ■ Route 6 *— Winchester. 97 tains Some interesting local anti¬ quities and natural history speci¬ mens, including a fine collection of flint, implements, lent by Lord Nortliesk. Here are preserved a series of standard measures formed of mixed yellow metal. They com¬ prise a Winchester bushel of the reign of Henry VII., gallon and quart measures, a standard yard and a weight of the reign of Elizabeth. The old Town Hall, higher up the street, is converted into shops, but retains Sir W. Paulet’s quaint clock (l r ,1) and the statue of Queen Anne. God-begot House (101, High Street) is a fine Tudor house with rich woodwork, on the site of a religious house founded by Emma, Cnut’s Queen. 7. Jewry Street, rt., by the George Hotel (a Hostelry has ex¬ isted here since the 14th cent.), leads to the suburban parish of Hyde and the site of Hyde Abbey, which was originally' founded by King Alfred on the N. side of the present cathedral {ante). Alfred was himself for a time buried there, as were many of his successors; but when, in the reign of Henry I., the monks removed to the later building in Hyde meadow, they took with them all the royal tombs and remains. A county Bridewell was erected here in the latter part of the last cent., and was in use till 1850, when it was pulled down, and a number of small houses built on the ground. Many objects of interest were found here in digging the foundations of the Bridewell; among others, the head of a pastoral staff (c. 1250), and a slab, which probably formed part of the tomb of Alfred the Great, and is inscribed with his name. This is now at Corby Castle, Cumberland. Three stone coffins, discovered at the same time, [ Hants.'] and on good grounds believed to be those of Alfred himself, iElswitha his queen, and his son Edward the Elder, were actually broken up to mend the roads, and their contents huddled into a pit in the Bridewell garden. The 2nd Abbey of Hyde was built by Henry I., and many of the neighbouring parishes belonged to it. Its head was one of the mitred abbots; and its annual income, at the Dissolution, was 8Q51. It then passed to Wriotliesley, Earl of Southamp¬ ton, who became lord of so much monastic property in Hampshire. In Hyde Abbey School a remarkable number of men of distinction at the beginning of the century re¬ ceived their early education, in¬ cluding Lord Liverpool, Admiral Lord Lyons, Deans Gaisford and Gamier, Wolfe the poet, General Sir P. Maitland, and George Canning. The remains of the Abbey are very scanty. There are some por¬ tions of tiie walls, a good Perp. gateway, and some small 15th-cent. doorways, beside a curious piece of diaper-work built into one of the neighbouring walls. The Church of St. Bartholomew, with low W. tower, which adjoins, is said to have been built from fragments of the Abbey itself; but the fine (restored) Norm. S. doorway, the lancet trefoil-headed windows in the nave, and the two Norm, arches in the N. aisle,, are certainly in their original positions. A very pleasant pathway, still known as “ the Monks’ Walk,” leads from here to King’s Worthy. (See Exc. g.) 8 . Returning to the High Street, and still ascending, we reach the *West Gate, a valuable specimen of military architecture of the time of Henry III., and tolerably perfect, although later windows have been inserted. Only this gate and King’s Gate, S. of the Close, remain of the old city gates. Just beyond H 98 Route 6 .— Winchester. the gate, on the road to Koinsey, is an obelisk, marking the spot where the market was held outside the walls during the plague of 1666. On the 1. of the West Gate is Castle Hill, the site of the old Castle or Boyal Palace , which should be visited. The Castle itself (of which the hall and the fragments of a sub¬ terranean passage, or sally-port, are the sole remains) was originally built by the Conqueror, and continued one of the habitual residences of the kings of England until the end of the reign of Henry III. He was known as “Henry of Winchester,” having been born here in 1207; and, 1232-1235, he rebuilt the ex¬ isting hall, and other parts of the castle. Many subsequent repairs are noticed; but they were for the most part confined to this hall (the bosses in the roof are temp. Edw. IV.) and to the fortifications. The castle seems to have afforded no suitable apartments on the occasion of more recent royal visits to Win¬ chester, since either the bishop’s palace (Wolvesey) or the Deanery was then placed in requisition. It was entirely dismantled after the siege by Cromwell in 1645. The open space in front of the castle was the scene (March, 1330) of the beheading of Edmund, Earl of Kent, brother of the unhappy Edward II., who had been murdered at Berkeley Castle 3 years before Kent fell a victim to the treachery of Mortimer. The Earl’s popularity is said to have been so great, that he was kept waiting a whole day before a headsman could be found ; a con¬ victed felon at last undertook the office of executioner on promise of pardon. It was in Winchester Castle that the conspirators implicated in the plot called the “Bye” were ar¬ raigned, Nov. 15, 1603 (the plague having driven the courts of law from London), and there too Raleigh was tried and condemned to death upon the “Main.” (His execution, it will be remembered, did not take place till 15 years afterwards.) On Nov. 29 the priests Watson and Clarke were executed, both “very bloodily handled ; being cut down alive.” On the 5 th of December, Brooke was brought to the scaffold, and “ beheaded like a gentleman ” ; his companion, Markham, Grey, and Cobham, being respited at the block, after sickening suspense. The *Hall of the Palace, built in the 13th cent., by Henry III., long served as the County Hall, and was divided by partitions into civil and criminal courts. New courts were erected in 1874, and the hall re¬ stored to its original dimensions, by H. F. Wyatt; the windows have also been fitted with heraldic glass. The hall is a remarkably fine speci¬ men of the domestic architecture of its time, and is divided by pillars and arches like the nave and aisles of a church (Comp, the hall at Oak¬ ham, and the beautiful Salle des Chevaliers at Mont St. Michel— Smirke; see also Parker , ‘ Dom. Arch.’ vol. i.). The windows are of two lights, with a quatrefoil in the head, and with seats formed in the sill in the interior, an unfailing dis¬ tinction between domestic and church windows. The upper parts alone were glazed originally, the lower portions being fitted with wooden shutters. At each end, in the gable, is a triple lancet window. At the W. end of the hall, above what was formerly the royal seat, hangs the famous Bound Table of King Arthur —an illustration of the venerable legends which made “Caer Gwent ”—Winchester—the capital of the old British Kings, as well as of King Alfred. I 11 its present form the painting of the table is not earlier than the beginning of the 16th cent. In the centre is a double rose, red and white; above which is the figure of King Arthur, seated Route 6 .— Winchester. 99 &nd crowned. The rest of the table is divided into 24 particoloured rays, each of which has the name of one of the world-renowned knights written in the border. There are bullet-marks in different parts, the alleged work of Cromwell’s soldiers. The table is said to have been re¬ painted on the occasion of the passage of the Emperor Charles Y. through Winchester in 1522, when he and Henry VIII. visited it to¬ gether, and this verse is said to have been placed below it—* “ Carolus, Heuricus vivant; defensor uter- que, Henricus fidei, Carolus ecclesiaa.” The earliest know T n reference to the table is that of Hardyng, temp. Hen. VI., who alludes to it as “ hanging yet ” at Winchester. “ La table ronde, fabrique par Merlin,” is mentioned also by Diego de Vera, a Spaniard who was present at the marriage of Philip and Mary at “ Hunscrit,” his attempt at phonetic spelling of the name of the old city. There is a notice, as early as the reign of Henry III., of a “rota for- tunas” or wheel of fortune, painted on the gable of this hall, toward the E.; and it seems not improbable that the rotct itself may have been converted into the table of King Arthur. At any rate it is not un¬ likely that the table itself may be of far greater antiquity than its present form would seem to indicate. In the Hall many early parlia¬ ments were held. In restoring it a curious shaft was discovered, one end of which can be seen in the W. wall below the table. It leads in the direction of the former royal palace, and was probably used by the king with the object of hearing the proceedings in the hall. The late Barrachs, adjoining the castle, S., were the only finished portion of the palace began by Charles II. in 1683. Walpole describes the palace as “ a mixture of a town-hall and a hospital; the worst thing I ever saw of Sir Christopher Wren; not to mention the bad choice of situation in such a country, all ups that should be downs.” This criticism is hardly fair. The palace would not only have commanded fine views over the valley of the Itcben, but it was proposed to form a noble street, leading in a direct line from its principal entrance to the great W. door of the cathedral. The destruc¬ tion by fire of the king’s house at Newmarket “ made him,” says Evelyn, “more eager for Win¬ chester.” The new palace was modelled on that of Versailles ; and the works were proceeded with for two years, until the death of Charles stopped them altogether. The only part completed was occasionally used as a depot for prisoners of war, and after giving shelter to a large colony of French refugee priests, was con¬ verted into permanent barracks in 1796. These were burnt to the ground in 1894. The views from the city Cemetery across the railroad, are very beauti¬ ful. The valley of the Itchen is commanded, with the gray towers of St. Cross rising above thick masses of foliage. Near the cemetery is the Diocesan Training School, a con¬ siderable pile of building, erected at a cost of about 8000Z. The building crowning the hill on the Eomsey road is the County Gaol, conducted on the separate system. The County Hospital, adjoining (the first esta¬ blished out of London, 1736), is a highly ornamented red-brick build¬ ing, by Butterfield; it was removed from the town below in 1865. The other churches are of little interest. St. Thomas’s Ch., in Southgate Street, on the road to St. Cross, is a striking modern building, with h 2 100 Boute Cross. a tall spire. Holy trinity, at North Walls, by Woodyer, 1855, is in purer taste. St. Michael’s, in Kingsgate Street, is chiefly modern and very bad, but has a carious 13th-cent. sundial built into its wall. Near the barracks, on West Hill, stands Christ Church, by Christian. The number of churches and chapels formerly existing within the walls of Winchester, according to Milner, was 65; other authorities fix it at 48; either statement is almost in¬ credible, but the number was cer¬ tainly very large. All but nine have now disappeared, to which the new churches of Christ Church and Holy Trinity are to be added. Excursions. (a) The principal excursion from Winchester is to the famous ^Hos¬ pital of St. Cross, distant rather more than a mile S. It may be reached either from the High Street, through Southgate Street (which leads direct to the village), or, far more pleasantly for pedestrians, by proceeding down Kingsgate Street to the site of the Church of St. Faith (post), and thence by a meadow path near the bank of the Itchen. A pleasant waterside path leads from the College to St. Cross. There is no foundation of the sort in England which can be compared in point of interest with St. Cross. The original hospital of St. Cross was founded in 1136, by Henry de Blois, Bp. of Winchester, for 13 poor men, “ decayed and past their strength.” A hundred other poor were to receive a certain allowance daily; and what remained of the revenues was to be distributed in general charity. After much per¬ version of the founder’s design during the 13th cent., the charity was duly restored by William of Wykeham. His successor in the bishopric, Cardinal Beaufort (1404- 1447), greatly Increased it, and added a distinct establishment, called “The Almshouse of Noble Poverty,” for the support of 2 priests, 35 brethren, and 3 nuns, who were to act as Sisters of Charity, and wait on the sick. The second establish¬ ment, however, rapidly merged into the first ; and the greater part of the estates with which Beaufort had endowed it having been purchased from Henry VI., were re-claimed on the accession of the House of York in 1461, on the plea that crown lands could not be alienated. The hospital remained untouched throughout the period of the Refor¬ mation ; but its ancient charters and grants were, it is said, destroyed during the 16th cent, by the widow of a steward, in order to cover her husband’s defalcations. Long disputes followed between the master and the brethren, which endured until 1696, when a Custumary was drawn up which all agreed to ob¬ serve. The mastership fell into lay hands during the great rebellion ; and the tragical end of the regicides, John Lisle, and Cook, Solicitor- General to the Parliament, who successfully filled the office, would point a moral for Spelman’s ‘ History of Sacrilege.’ After the Restoration the post was held by the ex-cornet of horse, Henry Compton, afterwards Bp. of London, the crowner of William and Mary, and by the learned and amiable Bp. Porteus. The mastership was held for many years by a former Earl of Guilford, whose administration of the affairs of the hospital gave rise to much dissatisfaction, and after long litiga¬ tion a new distribution of the revenues was arranged. Anthony Trollope’s “The Warden” is really a description of St. Cross. At pre¬ sent the management is in the hands of 12 trustees, who elect the brethren. The hospital now supports 13 breth¬ ren, no longer bound to celibacy, who wear long black gowns with a silver cross on the left breast. Each has s s. a week, with a house of two rooms, a garden, and a daily allow¬ ance of meat, bread, and beer, besides an extra supply on the chief festivals, Route 6 .— St. Cross. 101 when the brethren are regaled on “ plum porridge ” and gigantic mince-pies. On Good Friday, after morning service, they partake of a kind of pudding, known as "Judas' sop.” Cardinal Beaufort’s founda¬ tion of " Noble Poverty ” has lately also been revived. These brethren wear plum-coloured gowns, with a badge of a cross and a cardinal’s hat. The charity of " the Hundred Men’s Hall ” is now represented by a small quarterly payment to certain poor of the parish of St. Faith, of which the living (there is now no church) is held with the mastership of St. Cross. The general doles of wheaten bread on the Feast of the Holy Cross (May 3), the obit of the founder (Aug. 10), and the eves of the great festivals, which had been much abused, are now confined to the members of the hospital. The charity, however, which will most interest the visitor, is the "Wayfarer’s Dole,” which is given, in the shape of a horn of beer and a slice of bread, to all who demand it at the porter’s lodge, until the two gallons of beer and two loaves of bread to which the "support” is now limited are expended. This is now nearly the last relic in England of the old-world charity, which could afford to provide indiscriminately for all comers. The hospital is entered by a plain gate on the N.; within which is a small court, having 1. the remains of a large building, said, but probably inaccurately, to have been the “ Hundred Men’s Hall ” ; and rt. some of the ancient offices, now used as a stable. Immediately in front is the Gatehouse, the work of Cardinal Beaufort, whose arms and devices appear in different parts of it. The massive square tower rises above the high roofs on either side, “and is well supported by buttresses and by an octagonal turret in one corner, which gives much character to the outline.” Remark the arch of the gateway itself, with its rich span- drils, Above arc 3 niches, in one of which the kneeling figure of the cardinal still remains. In this gate¬ way, 1., is the porter’s lodge, where the wayfarer must ask for his bread and beer, and obtain admission tickets, at 6d. for one, Is. for three. Is. 6d. for a party, the amount being equally divided between the “ Brother Exhibitor ” (an officer changed every month), the library, and the burial fund. The view which opens after pass¬ ing through this gate much resembles that of an Oxford quadrangle. The buildings occupy 3 sides of a square ; the 4th, toward the S., being partly closed by the Ch. A group of fine trees, and glimpses of green, quiet meadows are caught beyond. The grand old Ch., grouping so picturesquely with the lower masses of building, full of variety and changeful outline, carries back the mind at once to ages which were “ as lavish of architectural beauty on what modern habits would deem a receptacle for beggars, as on the noblest of royal palaces.” A low cloister, of the 16th cent., forms the E. side of the quadrangle, and connects the porter’s lodge with the Church. This is almost through¬ out Trans.-Norm., and one of the best examples of that period (the middle of the 12th cent.) remaining in this country. The Ch. is cruciform, with aisles to the nave and choir (but not to the transepts) and a N. porch. The original high roofs remain; and from the centre rises a massive square tower, reaching only one story above the roof. Full architectural details will be found in Mr. Freeman’s paper on this Ch., in the Win¬ chester vol. of the Proceedings of the Archxol. Institute. The exterior should first be noticed. The Ch. seems to have been in building from the time of Bp. Henry de Blois (d. 1171) to about 1292. It exhibits two periods of Trans.-Norm, (ope a little later 102 Route 6 .— St. Cross. than the other, but both before 1200), forming the mass of the Ch.; some E. E. in the nave; and fully de¬ veloped Dec. in the clerestory, and in the great window of the W. front. The doorway here, “ with the splen¬ did W. window, the graceful lancets at the ends of the aisles, and the small gable lights, all form one of the most beautiful and simple com¬ positions imaginable.” The clere¬ story windows, of 2 lights, differ on the N. and S. sides. Passing round to the S. side of the Ch., remark the windows in the nave, varying from E. E. to Trans.- Norm. At the end of the S. transept, the only remaining portion of De Blois’ hospital is attached to the Ch. This is a mere fragment, but sufficient to prove that the original buildings were here, and to account for the comparative plain¬ ness of the Ch. on the S. side. (Winchester Cathedral and Komsey also had their conventual buildings on this side, which in both is much plainer than the N.) At the angle of the choir aisle and the S. transept is a much enriched and very remarkable triple arch. It is probable that it was a doorway into the cloister, though it has been questioned whether it was a door¬ way at all, and not rather “ a sort of buttery hatch, whence the dole was given out.” The external walls and windows of the choir aisle, and the lower story of the transept, belong to the late Norm, period. At the E. end of the Ch* remark the square turrets, rising from the pilaster buttresses; and the arrangement of the windows, in sets, ranging with those of the clerestory, the triforium, and the aisles. Above, in the gable, are two small circular openings intended originally to air the timber roof, but now glazed. On the N. side of the Ch. the far greater richness of the windows should be observed. The N. porch is E. E. The. Interior of the Ch. deserves the most careful and lengthened notice in all its details. It has been restored by Butterfield, with a dubious application of colour at the E. end. Two fine original win¬ dows that had been hidden by the modern reredos were discovered and laid open, and several memorial windows have been given by various benefactors. The massive pillars of the Nave are in fact E. E.; but some Norm, adaptation may be traced in the capitals and some of the ornaments of the bases. A small bunch of foliage in the string-course indi¬ cates the point at which the Trans, ceases and the E. E. begins. The stained glass in the W. window is partly modern, and partly consists of ancient fragments of different dates, collected from different parts of the Ch. At the W. end of the S. aisle is now placed the Norm, font from the destroyed Church of St. Faith. In the Transepts observe the gradual approach to E. E. in the upper range of windows (lancet shaped) and in the Vaulting. A lower window in the N. transept exhibits a very remarkable variety of the beak-head moulding, developed into the complete form of a bird. In the N.E. angle of this transept is the base of a pillar, probably the only fragment of the first period remaining in the interior. One of the original Trans, windows above now opens into the infirmary of the hospital, so that the sick might, in effect, he present at the services; an arrangement made probably at the time of the alterations by Cardinal Beaufort. In the -S. transept re¬ mark the curious brackets support¬ ing the clustered vaulting shafts. Here are remains of wall-painting, a Route 6 .— St. Cross. 103 Descent from tlie Cross, and Martyr¬ dom of St. Thomas of Canterbury. A plain door in the S.E. corner opens into the vaulted chamber noticed from without as the only remaining fragment of the first hospital. At the angle between the transept and the choir note the very perplexing arrangements with¬ in the triple arch (ante). The recesses may perhaps have served as aumbries. The Choir has the “ pointed arch introduced as an arch of construc¬ tion throughout, while the semi¬ circular form is retained as an arch of decoration.” Remark the rich “ Coriutliianising ” capitals. Above is a fine triforium of intersecting arches. Whether the triforium was ever open as a gallery seems un¬ certain. There is now no passage except at the E. end. The details are very rich. It belongs, together with the clerestory and vaulting of the choir, to the 2nd period, after the death of De Blois. The original altar-slab of Purbeck marble, with its five consecration crosses, remains in perfect preservation as the base of the present communion table. On either side of the altar are stone screens with tabernacle work, which probably belong to the latest period of Perp., when all sorts of mixtures were in use. On the S. side of the altar is a small credence table, bearing on one of its sides an eagle with a scroll, the emblem of St. John, and no doubt referring to the Knights of St. John, or “Hospital¬ lers,” who were appointed by the founder, guardians, and administra¬ tors of the charity. The motto “Have mynde” on many of the encaustic tiles, was probably that of one of the former masters. Those with the initials “ O. Z.” commemo¬ rate an anonymous donation of 500Z. towards the restoration of the choir in 1863. The stalls are modern. The choir, like that of Romsey, is inclosed by a stone wall (perhaps of later date). The windows here (all the details of which are of the 2nd date) should be noticed. The E. end of the S. aisle has been fitted up, with the stalls removed from the chancel, as a morning chapel of the community. They have carved pendents of great beauty, and are probably early 16th cent. The very fine Brass of John de Campden, warden 1382 (the friend of William of Wykeham), lies in the choir. In the S. aisle is the monument of Mr. Speaker Cornwall (d. 1789). The Hall, on the N. side of the quadrangle, is part of Cardinal Beaufort’s work. Remark the high- pitched timber roof; the graceful windows of 2 lights, with the car¬ dinal’s arms in stained glass, sur¬ mounted by his hat, and with his motto on small scrolls in the quar¬ ries ; the minstrels’ gallery at the W. end; the central hearth, and the black jacks, saltcellars, and curious candlesticks still preserved. On certain festival days the brethren assemble and dine in this hall, when the scene at dusk, with the firelight glancing on the grave figures, in their dark monastic gowns, resem¬ bles some picturesque “ interior ” by Rembrandt or Ostade. Against the E. end of the hall is fastened a curious early German triptych (cer¬ tainly not by Albert Durer as is sometimes asserted), the principal subject being the Adoration of the Magi. In the windows of the pas¬ sage which leads from the W. end of the hall to the kitchen will be noticed the motto of Robert Sher¬ borne, “ Dilexi sapientiam ,” with the date in archaic numerals, 1497. The kitchen and offices should be inspected ; they belong to Beaufort’s work. At the S.E. end of the hall a staircase ascends to the founder’s chamber; beyond which, in a second 104 Boute 6 .— St. Catharine’s Hill. room, arc some carved oak presses, and on the W. side the initials and motto of Robert Sherborne, master of the hospital in 1503. The stairs on the S. side of this room lead to the “Nuns’ Chambers,” a long range above the cloister, designed to serve as an infirmary, and with a window at the end opening into the Ch. The master’s house, which adjoins the hall, W., probably formed out of the Hundred Men’s Hall, has been modernised on the exterior, and to a great extent within; but still con¬ tains some fragments of old work and stained glass in the passages at the back. The houses of the brethren form the W. side of the quadrangle. ( b ) After seeing St. Cross, the visitor should turn eastward, pass the Itchen, and climb to the top of St. Catharine’s Hill, a down marked by its clump of trees. The summit is surrounded by a deep fosse, and was probably the original strong¬ hold which kept watch above the old British city of Winchester (Caer Gwent). From it there is a fine view of the “downs and the clear streams,” and of the city itself, which, “ with its associations of Alfred’s capital, and its tombs of kings and prelates,” Dr. Arnold regretfully remembered “as com¬ pared with Rugby and its 13 horse and cattle fairs.”— Life , p. 384. On the highest points are the founda¬ tions of one of St. Catharine’s hill¬ top chapels (built on high ground in commemoration of her remains having been carried by angels to the top of Sinai). It was suppressed by Wolsey in aid of his foundations at Ipswich and Oxford. Near the clump of trees is the square labyrinth, or “ mizmaze,” which used to be kept in order by the boys of Winchester College, who have long appropriated this hill as a supplementary play¬ ground, Having become very in¬ distinct, it was recut by sub¬ scription. The maze was said to have been originally cut by the boy who was kept at school during the holidays, and who wrote the song of “Dulce Domum.” After cutting the labyrinth he pined away and died, breathing his last under a a great elm, long known as the “ Domum ’’ tree, by the river side, where “ Domum Wharf” still keeps up the tradition. Matter-of-fact archaeologists, however, assert that this labyrinth had an ecclesiastical origin. Such intricate composi¬ tions, of which examples still exist in England (as at Eockbourno (Rte. 15), Asenby, near Eipon, Alkborougli in Lincolnshire, Saffron Walden, &c.,) and abroad (as in Chartres Cathedral, St. Quentin, Ste. Maria in Trastevere, Rome), were formerly very frequent, and were used as instruments of penance for the non-fulfilment of vows of pilgrimage, and hence were known as “ Chemins de Jerusalem.” (See Arch. Journ., vol. xv.) 2 m. be¬ yond St. Cross is Twyford (post). (c) The little Ch. of Chile omb (2 m. S.E. of Winchester) deserves a visit on its own account, as well as for the sake of its picturesque situation, in a combe or valley under the chalk downs. The Ch. is of the earliest Romanesque, with a very singular E. window; two square-headed lights with a quatre- foil over them are inserted in the original opening. There is an early low-side window; and some encaus¬ tic tiles remain in the pavement. ( d ) In the Ch. of Week (or Wike), 1 m. from Winchester on the Stockbridge road, is a curious Brass of Wm. Complyn (1498), with a rude representation of St. Christopher, and a mural tablet for Dr. Nicholas Harpesfield, a former rector, and a noted official of the Winchester dio¬ cese, under Bps. Fox and Gardiner. 105 Route 6 .—The Worthys. Littleton Ch. (2 m. N.) is Norm., with two E. E. lancets and a very good Trans, font. The bells were originally hung in the western gable. Crawley Ch., beyond (5 m. from Winchester, 4| from Stockbridge), has an E. E. tower, a nave with wooden pillars, as at Old Alresford, a Trans.-Norm, chancel arch, with a squint on the N. side, in the sill of which is a piscina, and an E. E. chancel. In the chancel is the brass of a rector, Michael Ren- nijer (1609), chaplain to Queen Elizabeth. In the ch.-yd. is an epitaph beginning, “ The world’s a city with many a crooked street.” Crawley Court, which was in ruins, has been rebuilt. It has a tennis- court, built for the use of George IV., who sometimes resided at Rookley, 3 m. S.W. Some Roman remains have been found in the parish of Sparsholt, lj m. S.W. of Littleton, where is a small E. E. Ch., restored by Butterfield, with a Norm. S. arcade and picturesque wooden tower. In the ruined Ch. of Lainston, in 1745, Walpole’s “ iElia Lcelia Chudleigh ” married Capt. Hervey, afterwards Earl of Bristol, and began the curious his¬ tory which ended in her trial for bigamy, in 1776, as Duchess of Kingston. (e) The valley of the Itclien as far as Martyr Worthy is worth exploring. A causeway, still known as the Monks’ Walk, leads from Hyde Abbey to Headbourne (Hyde Bourne ) Worthy (formerly belonging to the Mortimers, Earls of March), the first of the four Wortlrys (Aug.- Sax. weorth, a homestead), granted by Egbert to Winchester Monastery in 825, all of which are on the rt. bank of the stream, and are very pleasant and picturesque. Head- bourne Worthy Ch. (2 m.), origin¬ ally founded, according to tradition, by St. Wilfrid, well deserves notice. It has bepn restored, but pregents some primitive Romanesque indica¬ tions, “pilaster strips of long-and- short work, a rude W. doorway, and a straight-sided chancel arch, which may probably be of the time of Edward the Confessor.”— J. II. Parker. At the W. end is a much mutilated sculpture of the Cruci¬ fixion (larger than life), originally external, but now contained within a 15th-cent. chapel, and a small room above it. The altar was placed at the foot of the cross. The chamber above “ was possibly the dwelling of an anchorite.” Remark the encaustic tiles in the Ch.; and an interesting lotlr-cent. Brass of John Kent, a Winchester scholar, in his college dress (the same as now worn). In the ch.-yd. the plain high tomb of the learned Bingham, author of the ‘ Origines Ecclesiastics, ’ who was once rector of this parish, and whose remains were brought hither from Havant (Rte. 1), should be noticed. A lich¬ gate, carved by the rector, has recently been erected. A great Witena-gemote was held here by King JEthelstan, June 21, 931. King’s Worthy Ch., £ m. higher up the stream, has a near!yPerp. chancel and font, and a curious stone cross inlaid in the flint work at the E. end. N. of the village is Worthy Park (Capt. C. G. Fryer). Abbot’s Worthy is united with King’s Worthy. The Ch. of Martyr or Earl’s Worthy, 1 m. beyond, has good Norm, door¬ ways, and a rich coped tomb in the ch.-yd. The Ch. of Easton, seen across the stream, deserves a visit; and the return to Winchester may be made from it, through pleasant field-paths coming in by Winnall. It is Trans.-Norm., with apsidal chancel. The chancel arch is of the horse-shoe form, and very richly ornamented. The S. doorway should especially be noticed for its indica¬ tions of the rapidly approaching E. E. The crest-tiles on the roof are very good and unusual. Notice 106 j Route 6.— Hursley. the monument to worthy Mrs. Bar- view is commanded from the site ol low, widow of Bp. Barlow of Chi- the castle. Chester, one of the earliest married The manor of M erdon was sur- bishops (d. lo95), whoso hve daugh- rendered to the crown by Bp. ters were married to as many bis- p 0 ynet, temp. Edward VI. ; and hops — Margaret to Overton of toward the middle of the 17 th cent. Lichfield; Ann to Westfaling of it became the property of Richard Hereford; Elizabeth to Day of Winchester ; Frances to Tobias Matthew of York; Antonina to Wickham, Day’s predecessor at Winchester. “ Prole beata fuit; plena annis, quinque suarnm, Prasulibus vidit, praesulis ipsa, datas.” The old rectory was pulled down a few years ago, and a Tudor fire¬ place was removed to the new rectory. (/) Hursley is mostly visited from Winchester (4| m.), but the nearest Stat. (3 m.) is Chandler’s Ford (Rte. 11) between Eastleigh and Romsey. A round of about 14 m. may be taken from Winchester to Hursley and Ampfield, returning by the Ch. at Otterhourne. The tourist will thus visit a very pleasant corner of Hampshire, full of low, wooded hills, and beautified by the good farm-houses and cottages built by the late Sir William Heathcote. The road from Winchester is the llomsey road, by the gaol and obelisk. 1 m. beyond it on Compton Down is a tumulus with a clump of trees, called Oliver Cromwell’s Bat¬ tery, having been occupied by him before the siege. At the hamlet of Standon, 1 m. short of Hursley, the archmologist should turn to the rt., to visit (J m.) the scanty architec¬ tural remains and huge Celtic earth¬ works of Merdon 'Castle (at the N. extremity of Hursley Park), built by Bp. Henry de Blois (c. 1138) on one of the manors said to have been granted to the see by Kynegils. Little now remains beyond frag¬ ments of walls and part of the ex¬ terior fosse, about which some fine yew-trees are growing. A wide Cromwell, son of the Protector, through his marriage (May 1, 1649) with Dorothy, the daughter and heiress of Richard Major, Esq., a “pious prudent man.” His resi¬ dence was at Hursley Park, where, it is said, he would occasionally seat himself on an old oaken chest, and boast that he had beneath him the lives and properties of the best men in England. The chest contained the addresses which had been made to him on succeeding his father as Lord Protector. After the Restora¬ tion Richard Cromwell retired for some years to the Continent, his wife continuing to reside here, where she died Jan. 5, 1676. After her death his daughters retained posses¬ sion of Hursley, and on his return, in 1680, refused to restore it, offer¬ ing their father a small annuity instead. During the trial which followed (and which terminated in his favour), Cromwell wandered into the House of Lords, where one of the officers who was present pointed out to him the various objects of interest, asking him whether ‘ ‘ he had ever been in that house before.” “ Never,” replied Cromwell, “since I sat in that chair,” pointing to the throne. At his death his daughters sold the manor to the first Sir William Heathcote, who pulled down the old house, it being past repair. The present house of Hursley Park (J. W. Baxendale, Esq.) is of red brick, with stone basement and dressings. The park in which it stands is large and well wooded. Hursley Ch. (All Saints) was rebuilt in 1848, by the Kev. J. Keble, out of the profits of the ‘Christian Year.’ The stained glass, a free-will offering from the Route 6 .— admirers of the work, especially deserves notice. Among the monu¬ ments here are two from the old Oh. One is to the widow of Thomas Sternhold, 1559, he lived at Slackstead, 2 m. W., and with Hopkins wrote the “ old version” of the Psalms), who had taken as her second husband Wm. Hobby, brother of Sir Philip Hobby, the then owner of Merdou. On a side wall near the W. entrance a family monument of marble is in¬ scribed to the memory of “ Kichard Cromwell, father of Elizabeth Crom¬ well, died 12th July, 1712.” The ex-Protector died at Cheshunt, aged S6, and was buried in this Ch. The gabled vicarage w r ill be viewed with interest as for many years the residence of the saintly John Keble. He died at Bournemouth in 1866, but is, with his wife, buried in this ch.-yd., and has a Brass in the chancel. 2£ m. S.W. from Hursley lies the district Ch. of Ampfield, built in 1S41, in the midst of woods, and surrounded by a model ch.-yd. Passing Cranbury Park (T. Cham- berlayne, Esq.), where there are some valuable pictures, the Church of Otterbourne (post) is reached. The return to Winchester can be made by Compton and St. Cross. The rly. from Winchester to South¬ ampton leaves the Stat. on a high embankment between cuttings, after which there is a momentary view of the city below on 1., and soon afterwards of the picturesque build¬ ings of St. Cross. Beyond this the G. W. line from Didcot falls in on 1. (Rte. 9). 69| m., Shawford and Twyford Stat. Shawford is only a hamlet. The large and very pretty village of Twyford. 107 Twyford lies on 1., and affords numerous subjects for an artist. The path through the meadows from the village to the Ch., rising in the midst of its fine old elms, is especially pleasant. The Church itself was rebuilt in 1878, by A. Waterhouse, R.A., and contains nothing of much interest. There is a bust by Nollehens of Dr. Shipley, Bp. of St. Asaph (d. 1788). In the ch.-yd. is a magnificent yew. Pope was for some time at a school in the village of Twyford (now called Seager’s Buildings), kept by one John Bromley, sometime curate of St. Giles-in-tlie-Fields, who had turned Romanist in James II.’s time. A satire on his master is said to have been the cause of the youthful poet leaving Twyford. At Twyford House (Mrs. Smith Dampier), an old brick mansion, Franklin is said to have written much of his autobio¬ graphy while on a visit to Dr. Ship- ley. A Roman villa has been found at Twyford. Shaivford House (Sir C. E. Frederick, Bart.), almost sur¬ rounded by the forks of the Itchen, was long the seat of the Mild- mays. Brcimbridge House, once the property of the Roman Catholic family of Smythe, to which Mrs. Fitzherbert belonged, is in this parish. The old chapel attached to the house has an undeserved local reputation as the supposed scene of the private marriage be¬ tween her and George IV. when Prince of Wales. (See Bed Bice House , Rte. 10.) Here is a fine avenue of beech-trees. The Marian martyr, Philpot, archdeacon of Win¬ chester, was a son of Sir Peter Philpot of Twyford. 2 m. S.E. from Twyford is Owsle- bury Ch., which is early Dec., cruciform, with Dec. central tower, and plain Dec. font. It was, says tradition, the last Hampshire church in which mass was sung. 108 Route 6 .- The priest persisted in adhering to the old service, and was dragged from the altar by Sir Thomas Seymour, of Marwell Hall (the brother of the Lord Protector, who had enriched him from the spoils of the Bishopric of Winches¬ ter), and by his servants, “ cruelly served,” and at last murdered. Marwell Hall , built in 181G, is one of the many traditional places, found in most counties, of the scene of “ the lost bride,” locked up in a chest. The “ identical chest ” in which the unhappy lady hid herself, used to be in the possession of a former rector of Upham. At Long - ‘wood House (belonging to the Earl of Northesk) are some very fine bcech-trees. At Marwell Manor Farm the Bishops of Winchester had a resi¬ dence from the time of Henry de Blois, but it originally belonged to Hyde Abbey. Hither Henry VIII. and Jane Seymour repaired shortly after their marriage. Nothing is now to be seen but the moat, and a few plain doorways of the 14th and 15th centuries. The chapel is now a cow-house. Upham, 2 m. S.E., on the high downs which stretch towards Bishop’s Waltham (which is only 3 m. further), was the birthplace (1681) of Edward Young, author of ‘ Night Thoughts.’ His father was then rector of the parish. The Ch., not of much interest, was restored by G. E. Street , B.A. In 1849 remains of Roman buildings were discovered at Wickes Boiv, in this parish, close to the Roman road from Winchester to Portchester. At Morestead, 2 m. E. of Twyford, is a small early’' Norm. Ch. At Compton, J m. W. of the Stat., there is also a small Norm, church of some interest, with a rich N. door¬ way, and plain Trans.-Norm. font, -Eastleigh. with detached shafts. A carved standard for a desk may be noticed. In the Ch. is a monument to Dr. Huntingford, Bp. first of Gloucester and then of Hereford, and Warden of Winchester College. Compton was his first curacy. Near the line, rt., 2 m. from Shaw- ford, is the Ch. of Otterbourne (the otters’ stream), which was built in 1838, but has been remodelled and improved by T. H. Wyatt, at the cost of Miss Yonge, author of the ‘ Heir of Redclyfie,’ &c., who re¬ sides at Elderfield , in this parish. In the beautifully kept ch.-yd. is a memorial cross to the Rev. John Iveble, who was formerly rector of this Ch. as well as of Hursley. 73£ m., Eastleigh Junct. Stat., formerly called Bishopstolce , till it was found that puzzled travellers persisted in confusing it with Basing¬ stoke. At this important junction trains are mostly divided up, to Southampton Docks and Pier for the Isle of Wight, Southampton West, Bournemouth, and Wey¬ mouth ; and to Stokes Bay, Gosport, and Portsmouth. A branch line also runs W. (Rte. 11) to Romsey and Salisbury. Eastleigh is a hamlet of Bisliop- stoke, which has grown into a con¬ siderable town of about 7000 people, owing chiefly to the removal hither in 1891 of the S. W. Rly. carriage- works from Nine Elms, which em¬ ploy about 1400 hands, and cover about 43 acres. The Church , by G. E. Street, B.A., to which Miss Charlotte Yonge largely contri¬ buted, is handsome. The Railway Institute has been recently enlarged. The pretty village of Bishopstoke lies 1 m. E., on the banks of the Itchen, here full of picturesque points. The ugly Ch. of 1825 is disused; a new Ch. was built in Houle C.— Stoneham. 100 1891. Tile “ foul-moutlied ” Bale, “ tlie angry wasp stinging all ” (Fuller), was rector of this parish, whence he was advanced to the see of Ossory in 1552. Here was long the residence of Dean Gamier of Winchester (d. 1873), famed for its beautiful grounds. These, planted by the Dean with rare conifers, are now attached to The Mount (T. Atkinson Cotton, Esq.), and contain some remarkably fine pines, and cypresses 50 ft. high ; there is also an evergreen or winter garden, charmingly arranged. Visitors in¬ terested in horticulture should apply for permission to see these grounds, plans of which will be found in Loudon’s ‘ Encyclopedia of Garden¬ ing.’ The house also contains a fine collection of British birds. 75| m., Swaythling (or Swathling) Stat. ; a pretty hamlet of South Stoneham, close by, on 1. South Stoneham House (Sir S Montague, Bart., M.P.) is a large, red-brick Queen Anne mansion, which passed from the Sloanes to the Stanleys, and afterwards to the Flemings. South Stoneham Ch. is mostly E. E., with a tower thickly veiled in ivy, a Norm, font, a coffin- lid with floriated crosses, brought from St. Denys Priory, and a Jacobean monument to Edmund Clarke (d. 1632). The Ch. of the new parish of West End, 2 m. E., is by Sir A. W. JBlomfield , A.B.A. 1 m. N. is Stoneham Parh (long a seat of the Flemings, but now un¬ occupied), where the rhododendrons and double blossoming furze in the drives are magnificent. The Church of North Stoneham is on the edge of the park; and, with the foliage in which it is embowered, makes a very agreeable picture from the Ely. The side windows are filled with glass displaying the arms and quarterings of the Fleming family, together With Scripture sub¬ jects. In the Ch. are 2 fine monu¬ ments. One is to Sir Thomas Flem¬ ing, Chief Justice of England (d. 1613), who purchased the estate of the representatives of Wriothesley, Earl of Southampton, to whom it had been granted on the suppression of Hyde Abbey. Fleming, the son of a small mercer at Newport, Isle of Wight, Bacon’s rival, declared by James I. to be “ a judge to his heart’s content,” is now chiefly known by his decision in the great case of impositions (1606) — in Lord Campbell’s opinion “fully as important as Hampden’s case of ship-money ”—to the effect that the king might impose what duties he pleased on imported goods. Another is to Admiral Lord Hawke, the hero of Quiberon Bay, of Swathling House, now demolished (d. 1781). In the floor a slab with the inscription in Lombardic characters, “ Sepul- tura de la Schola de Slavonic, a.d. mcccclxxxi. ,” marks the com¬ mercial connexion of Southampton with Venice, whose Slavonian sailors had selected N. Stoneham as the burial-place of their confraternity. (See an interesting paper, by Dean Kitchin, in Archseologia , liv.) It is boarded over, but the cover has been hinged for inspection, at the instance of the Hants Field Club. An interesting tablet is that to the memory of the late Bev. Canon Beadon, who died at the age of 101 years, and was for 68 years rector of the parish. Stoneham is in all probability the “Ad Lapidem” of the Itineraries, a small intermediate station between Vent a Belgarum and Clausentum (Bittern, near Southampton). It was still known by its Roman name in the time of Bede, who tells us (Hist. Eccles., iv. 16) that the young sons or brothers of Arwald, King of Wight, were carried hither to be con¬ cealed from their enemies, probably among the ruins of the old Roman 110 Route 6.— Southampton. town, but were discovered and put to death by Caedwalla, after having received baptism at the hands of the Abbot of Redbridge. 77 m., St. Denys Stat. (formerly called Ports wood). Hence a line goes off on E. to Netley and Fareham (Rte. 12 ). The scanty ruins of the Priory of St. Denys, on 1 ., are in a field on the rt. bank of the Itchen. It was a house of Augustinian canons, founded by Henry I., and increased in import¬ ance by succeeding kings. Nearly all the churches of ancient South¬ ampton were placed by Henry II. under the control of this priory, whose canons performed the offices. It was never, however, of great size or wealth, the annual revenue at the Dissolution being only 80Z. An ivy- covered wall, with a piscina (perhaps a fragment of the chapel), and a few stone coffins, &c., in the grounds of Priory House, are all that remains. A cartulary of this priory, full of local information and well worth notice, is in the Additional MSS. of the British Museum. St. Denys Ch., of red brick, is by Sir G. G. Scott. A free bridge here crosses the Itchen to Bittern. Skirting the Itchen on an em¬ bankment, and passing through the manufacturing suburb of 78| m., Northam Stat., just before which the line to the West Stat. and Bournemouth goes off on rt., we reach at 78f m., Southampton Docks Stat. Passengers for Cowes are conveyed in through railway carriages, on rails laid in the streets, as in Continental ports, to the Royal Pier, \ to., where the steamboats are in waiting. Those for foreign mail steamers, or for Havre or the Channel Islands, are conveyed alongside the steamers in the Dochs. Southampton West Stat., for Bourne¬ mouth, &c., is about 1| m. distant. A few trains westivards start from the Docks Stat. also. SOUTHAMPTON. INDEX. PAGE (a) History. 110 (b) Modern Commerce.113 (c) Objects of Interest:— High St., Churches, &c. . . . 115 The Bar.116 Old Walls, &c.117 Docks.120 (d) Excursions.121 (e) Southampton Water.121 Southampton, the great com¬ mercial port of Hampshire, and also a county of itself, is in an admirable situation for commerce, on a penin¬ sula near the head of the South¬ ampton Water, where two famous trout-rivers, the Itchen, E., and the Test, W., form estuaries into it. Like,other seaports, it has its low dirty quarters, but of late years what may be considered a new town has sprung up, and all around is an air of bustle and activity befitting a place at and from which many of the finest ocean-going steamships arrive and depart daily. It is as a packet station that it is now so important, and it would deserve a visit on that account, even if it had nothing, instead of much, to interest the antiquary. The large packet- ships lying in the docks are usually shown for a small fee, which goes to the town Infirmary. (a) History of Southampton. Southampton is a town of almost equal antiquity with Winchester, to which it served as the port, even in the time of the Romans, who established a “castellum” at Bittern (Clausentum) on the 1. bank of the Itchen, about i m. higher up the river than the present town (see post, Bittern, where Roman remains stiff Ill Route 6.— Southampton. exist). Roman roads connected Clausentum with Portchester and Winchester. The latter of these was a branch of the Ermyn Street. The fortress here, however, seems to have been neglected by the Saxons, who founded a new settle¬ ment on the tongue of land between the two rivers, the site of modern Southampton—naming it, possibly, Suthamptuna (the town of the south hams, or dwellings), from its situa¬ tion with regard to the older Clau¬ sentum. The name has also, with less probability, been derived from that of the river Anton, and the Southampton Water has been con¬ sidered the Antona of Tacitus. The town seems subsequently to have given name to the shire, the original extent of which is, however, quite uncertain. Southampton itself, or the “ burgus de Hamton,” was first made a “county” by Henry VI. ; and the judges sat here occasionally till 1825, when at the request of the inhabitants it was included in the commission of the Western Circuit, “ Hamtun-shyre ” is first mentioned in the Ang.-Sax. Chron., 755, when Sigebert of Wessex is recorded to have lost his dominions with this exception. That it was a place of some note during the Saxon period is certain ; although the Saxon origin is doubtful (see post), which has been claimed for its famous hero, the pride of “ Ytene’s oaks, beneath whose shade Their theme the merry minstrels made Of Ascapart and Bevis bold.” (Prologue to Marmion.) yEthelstan established a mint in Southampton, which was a frequent landing-place of the Danes, attracted by the wealth of the neighbouring Winchester. Under /Ethelred II. the town was held by Swegen of Denmark as a pledge for the pay¬ ment of the sum with which the Northmen were to be bought off from future ravages. His son Cnut made a longer stay here. The fa¬ mous rebuke to his courtiers is said to have been given by him on the shore at this place ; and the very spot of the king’s lesson has been amusingly fixed near the docks, where we find Canute Road, and a public-house with the sign of the “ Canute Castle.” The Norman conquest, instead of injuring, added to the prosperity of Southampton. There was a ready transit to Normandy from this point, which seems to have been fully appreciated by the Normans, 63 of whom had houses in the town at the period of the Domesday survey, while there were only 31 tenanted by Englishmen. A charter was very early granted to the town, the earliest which exists being that of King John, which was subsequently confirmed and much extended by Henry III. Into the harbour came the “great ships” of Venice and Bayonne, laden with Eastern pro¬ duce, the red silks of the East, the red leather of Cordova and Tunis, and the coloured sugars of Alex¬ andria, then in great esteem as stomachics ; and it was here that the merchants of Bordeaux and Rochelle landed their cargoes of wine, the importation of which was long con¬ fined entirely to this port. Troops of merchants, with wares of every kind, landed here on their way to the great fair of St. Giles at Win¬ chester, where they had an oppor¬ tunity of disposing of their cargoes without the cost and peril of a jour¬ ney to London ; and numberless pilgrims, from the south and from the western parts of France, dis¬ embarked at Southampton on their way to the famous shrine of Becket at Canterbury. The importance of the town must have been not a little increased by gatherings of a less peaceful character which frequently took place here. Part of Coeur-de- Lion’s fleet assembled at Southamp¬ ton before sailing for Palestine, when the Sheriff supplied 800 Hampshire hogs for provisioning the troops, and 10,000 horseshoes “with double sets of nails.” Du¬ ring the reigns of Edward III. and Richard II. Southampton was the favourite place of departure for Nor¬ mandy and Guienne, and large bodies of troops were frequently assembled here. The town itself 112 Route 6.— Southampton* was wealthy and populous enough to furnish 21 ships and 576 mariners towards the royal fleet in 1345, and in the summer of that year the army which was afterwards victorious at Crecy embarked here. In 1415 Henry V.’s great expedi¬ tion for the conquest of France set sail from this place, where most of the ships were built, and whilst it was detained in the harbour by contrary winds the treason of Cam¬ bridge, Scrope, and Grey was dis¬ covered (s ee post, Domus Dei). The swans that floated about the mouth of the Southampton Water as the ships passed out were, according to the old chronicler, foretokens of the great victory of Agincourt which was destined to crown the expedition. In Oct. 1338 Southampton was plundered, and a great part of the town burnt, by the combined French, Spanish, and Genoese fleet of 50 galleys : and in 1432 it was again alarmed by the presence of a French fleet, with which sundry skirmishes took place ; but it was unable to carry the fortifications of the town. The abandonment of Guienne and Aquitaine by the English no doubt greatly affected the prosperity of Southampton, which had been the mediceval 1 ‘ packet station ” for those provinces. Its commerce, however, could sustain the blow ; for the trade with Venice, which had assumed a regular and systematic form as early as the beginning of the 14th century, continued as yet in full activity. A little fleet, known by the name of the “ Flanders galleys,” sailed annu¬ ally from Venice, and after touching at some of the principal ports of the Adriatic, Sicily, and Spain, passed on to “ Hampton,” where the flag galley and the commodore remained, whilst the rest proceeded to Bruges and Antwerp. Their cargo (a Vene¬ tian word, a corruption of the Tus¬ can “ carico ” = burden) was the produce of the Levant, and all that had as yet reached our shores from the Indian marts ; also the ‘ ‘ fashions of proud Italy,” then the centre of taste and luxury ; wines from Greece and Tyre, Candia, the Morea, and Spain ; and lastly, bow-staves, owing to the goodness cf the Italian yew. In 1472 it was enacted that 4 bow- staves should accompany every ton of Venetian merchandise ; and by 12 Edward IV. the importation of merchandise from Venice is forbidden, “unless they bring with every butt of Malvesy and every butt of Tyre 10 bow-staves, good and able stuff” {Brown, Despatches of Seb. Giustiniani, Introd.). They, too, first introduced “Malmsey” to England ; the Venetians having ob¬ tained possession of Malvasia about 1208. In 1518 Henry VIII., “ being near to Hampton,” himself visited the Flanders galleys, which had just arrived there. He was served on deck with a grand “confection,” and the glass vessels used on the occasion were distributed among the company. Both the king and the cardinal “looked out anxiously” for the coming of the galleys, es¬ pecially after any unusual interval between the periods of their arrival. They brought Damascus carpets for the cardinal’s palaces, and sundry articles of luxury, “ gentillezze," for the king. In her turn, besides Eng¬ lish cloth and other merchandise, Southampton supplied Venice with the romantic story of her own hero. To this day, in the Venetian marion¬ ette ,or puppet-show threatres, the ‘ History of Sir Bevis of Hampton ’ is one of the stock-pieces (Kawdon Brown). It is worth asking how far Shakespeare himself may have been influenced by the reputation of the Venetian trade here, and whether Shylock is not in some sense an importation of the Flanders galleys. Remembering how punctually to an hour or two the great steamers now arrive at “Hampton” from the re¬ motest parts of the world, it is not a little curious to observe how many months the Flanders galleys were looked for before their arrival. In the middle of February (1517), Giusti¬ niani, the Venetian ambassador, thought that “ as the weather was in their favour they would soon be here.” They did not come, however, till the 19th of May. In 1522 the Emperor Charles V., after his second visit to Henry VIII., embarked here for h ill Farm Nertliam Bridge yon «/■ rtf Cricket Ground SprmghiftrEo. ^v£NOR TheFlms <64X4 wmt..... •w„mrwm County Wharf wav hampton KVaa - 7? - V Sttiti om [fj jBf'itannia/ f~~t\Vharf / ^ Maxvsn ' Arnt’ii,-an\ Wharf The Deanerv tsshoijse, iwidrvA Bridge -Baths^% BuyleHab Cliff Hotel, ^ration Depot House ](Wat di&Lighf(no, Clo s e THE D ock From the, Ordnance, Survey. Scale 1 • 17280, 3% laches to l Mile V2 ilxMile Deep Water Open Doek 1000 2000 3000 5000 Feet 4000 CcKLHtgucn-d > 113 ■Route 6.— Southampton. am. Here too came the sickly boy Edward VI. (1552), a few months before his death, during the southern progress vainly resorted to by his physicians after his attack of measles and small - pox, and was received with much state by the inhabitants. The connexion between Venice and Southampton was so intimate (see North Stoneham, ante ) that the latter, like Venice herself, suffered greatly after the discovery of the new passage to India. A petition is extant from the corpo¬ ration (1530-31), praying to be re¬ lieved from a yearly tax of 40 marks, on the plea that since “ the Kyng of Portyngale took the trade of spicis from the Venyzians at Calacowte,” their “ carrackis and galeis ” came less frequently to the port. The High Street, at this time, is described by Leland as 1 ' one of the fayrest streates that ys yn any towne of al England, and it ys well bylded for timbre bylding.” There were many “fair merchauntes’ houses” here; and the town continued in much prosperity and reputation through¬ out the reigns of Mary and Elizabeth. Philip of Spain landed here, Fri¬ day, July 20, 1554, escorted by the Spanish and Flemish squadron,— ‘ 1 coquilles de moules ” — mussel- shells — the latter were called by Lord High Admiral Howard, to their great indignation. The queen’s barge was sent off for Philip, to whom the Earl of Arundel presented the insignia of the Garter. He went at once to the church of Holy Rood, where mass was sung as a thanksgiving for the safe voyage. ! Philip showed himself much in public at Southampton, and here first tasted English beer “ et puis se fist apporter de la biere, de laquelle il beut ” ( Amb . de Noailles ). Philip remained at Southampton till the Monday, when, on a gray gelding, in a violent storm of wind and rain, and wrapped in a long scarlet cloak, he left to join the queen at Winchester. After this period Southampton began to decline. Portsmouth, over which Southampton formerly claimed jurisdiction, now rose into import- [Hants. ] ance ; and a terrible visitation of the plague, in 1665, seems to have given the final blow to Southampton, ex¬ posed like other seaport towns to especial danger from pestilence. The “ Black Death ” here first touched English ground in 1348, and was terribly fatal. The great houses are described after the plague as “dropping to the ground,” and the population as fearfully diminished. During the plague provisions were brought by the country people to the small stream at “ Four Posts,” which forms the boundary of the borough, and there exchanged, the money being passed through the water to avoid infection. The chief item of the scanty trade in the 18th centy. was the importa¬ tion of wine from Oporto, which was long generally known by the name of “Southampton port.” Another trade, which subsisted till compara¬ tively recent times, was that in run¬ away marriages. There were always swift vessels (smugglers) ready at Southampton to carry parties, at 5 guineas per couple, over to Guernsey, where a wedding might be managed as easily as at Gretna Green. Among distinguished natives of Southampton may be named Arthur Lake, Bp. of Bath and Wells, and his brother Sir Thomas, Secre¬ tary of State to James I.; Bp. Pococke, of Ossory, the traveller; Nicholas Fuller, the divine ; Isaac Watts, the hymn writer, who was son of a Nonconformist schoolmaster in the town (b. 1074); Charles Dibdin, the Nautical Song-writer (b. 1748); and Sir John Everett Millais, P.R.A. (d. 1896). ( b) The modern prosperity of Southampton dates from the begin¬ ning of the present century, when the Duke of York made it his occa¬ sional residence. Numerous villas sprang up in the neighbourhood ; the town itself was much increased, and large bodies of troops for foreign service were constantly embarked at Southampton, after having been for I 114 Route G.— Southampton. some time encamped on Shirley and Netley Commons. The improve¬ ment was, however, but gradual until the completion of the South Western Railway, in 1840, and the subsequent formation of the Docks (1842). Since this period the in¬ crease both of buildings and of com¬ mercial enterprise has been very great, and the growth of South¬ ampton rapid, though not equal to that of some towns in the North. The population in 1801 was but 7600; in 1821, 13.000; in 1861, 46,300 ; in 1891,65,325. The suburban parishes of Shirley, Millbrook, &c., contain about 20,000 more. Southampton now takes rank as one of the 12 chief ports of the British Isles, standing high both as regards ex¬ ports and the tonnage entered in¬ wards and cleared outwards in the same years. In 1840 the tonnage was but 185,412 ; but soon after the com¬ pletion of the railway and docks it had trebled, and it went on steadily increasing till it reached the amount of 1,869,135 in 1873; it then some¬ what declined again, but of late years has increased to more than 2 ,000,000 tons, and the docks are continually growing. Mail Steamers , &c., from South¬ ampton. The following are the principal steamship lines using this port (the Peninsular and Oriental Co.’s vessels start now from London, in¬ stead of, as formerly, from South¬ ampton, to which, it is quite possible, the Company may return):— The Union Co.’s vessels sail every Saturday, for Lisbon, Madeira, Te- neritfe, Cape Town, and the E. coast of Africa (Office, Canute Road, S. side). The North German Lloyd vessels sail every Wednesday for New York; and every 28 days for China and Japan ; or Australia and New Zea¬ land; or Monte Video and Buenos Ayres. The return vessels of this line also give a convenient route to Germany by Bremen ( Office , 3, Oriental Place). The Boyal Mail steamers start in alternate fortnights for the West Indies, San Francisco, Japan, China, and British Columbia, via Panama; or for Brazil and the River Plate ( Office , 7, Canute Road). The Castle Line steamers leave every Saturday for Cape Town, Natal, Madagascar, &c. ( Office , 4, Oriental Place). The magniticent American Line steamers leave every Saturday for New York ( Office , Canute Road, S. side). The Hamburg-American steamers leave on Thursdays for Hamburg, and on Fridays for New York ( Office , 4, Oriental Place). The South Western Bailway boats leave daily for the Channel Islands, and for Havre. There is also a regular service to Cherbourg, and to St. Malo. Steamers for Plymouth, Falmouth, Liverpool, Glasgow, and Ireland, and for London, leave once or twice a week. There is also steam communica¬ tion with Cowes, Ryde, and Ports¬ mouth from the Royal Pier about 5 times a day, aud a steamer for Hytlie (convenient for visiting Beaulieu and part (of the New Forest) about hourly. The South Western is the only rly. having direct access for South¬ ampton ; but running powers have been obtained by the Great Western (Didcot and Newbury) from their Stat. at Winchester (Rte. 9), and by Midland and South AVestern Junction (Cheltenham) from Ando¬ ver Junct. (Rte. 10). Considering the great importance of Southamp¬ ton to the S. W. Rly., the'passenger service to it is very badly treated, there not being a single express (i.e. making 40 m. an hour), except one on Sundays, from London to the Route 6.— Southampton. 115 good, and a great deal of trade Docks Stat., tlie principal one. Two Bournemouth expresses each way call at the West Stat. Passengers for the great steamers are better treated, and conveyed alongside them or their tenders in special expresses. (c) Few of our towns present so many relics of our ancient domestic and military architecture as South¬ ampton, and the archaeologist will find much to interest him in the decaying but picturesque back streets and alleys. The most inte¬ resting portions of ancient South¬ ampton, between St. Michael’s and the Quays, teem with sailors’ lodging- houses, and the alleys are not always pleasant to visit. A most commendable practice, well worthy of imitation in other towns, has been adopted by the Town Council of Southampton, of affixing notice-boards to the more interesting parts of the walls and other ancient buildings, giving their probable dates and history. Before visiting the town-walls and other ancient remains which linger in the skirts of the town, the tourist may be advised to take a rapid survey of the more inviting portions in the centre. Leaving the Docks Stat., and proceeding up Oxford Street and Bridge Street, the visitor will enter the High Street at Holy Hood Church. The end of High Street is near the Pier, and a glimpse of it is seen from the train between the Docks Stat. and the Pier. The High Street, anciently known as “ English Street,” is still, as in Iceland’s time, “one of the fairest streets that is in England,” though not, as has been claimed for it, comparable with the High Street of Oxford. It is more than a mile lone:, nearly straight, of fair width, and its monotony somewhat relieved by bow-windows. The shops are carried on. Holy Rood Church was almost entirely rebuilt in 1849, except the tower and spire. It has Dec. nave arches, and a Perp. panelled font. In the chancel is a monument by Bysbrach , in the bad taste of the time, with weeping Cupid, urn, and inverted torch, to Miss Elizabeth Stanley (d. 1738), with an epitaph by Thomson, who also commemorates her accomplishments and early death in the ‘ Seasons.’ On the W. front, two ornamental tablets record the names and sad fate of “ 22 brave and disinterested men” whoperished in the attempt to stay a destructive fire, Nov. 7, 1837. A little way off High Street, nearly opposite to Holy Rood Ch., we find *St. Michael’s Church, in the square of the same name. It has a low central tower on Norm, arches, curiously intruding on the Perp. chancel, and a disproportion¬ ately lofty spire erected in the middle of the last cent, as a sea¬ mark, and again raised 10 ft. in 1880. The Ch. was in 1826 entirely modernised, and its outline spoilt by raising the side wall and flatten¬ ing the gables. It contains a fine black marble font of the Winchester Cathedral type, and probably by the same hand. (See font in Winchester Cathedral.) On the wall is a tablet to Bennet Langton, Dr. Johnson’s friend. In the N.W. corner is the tomb, with effigy, of Chief Justice Sir Richard Lyster (d. 1554), long called, but erroneously, that of Lord Chancellor Wriothesley, whose real tomb and monument are atTitchfield (Rte. 4). There are several chained volumes in the Ch. An ancient house of the Plantagenet period, on the S. side of St. Michael’s Square, is said to have been occupied by Henry VIII. and Anne Bolevn ; and there are small Norman remains of the Woollen Hall , to the S. of the Ch. 116 Bonte 6 .— Southampton. The most interesting part of the walls (post) is just beyond this Cli. Higher up High Street are the churches of St. Lawrence and St. John, modern E. E., with a spire, and All Saints, a cold Grecian building, designed by Beveley , a pupil of Sir W. Chambers. There is a monument with one of Flaxman’s bas-reliefs, illustrative of the Lord’s Prayer. The Bargate (described below) here divides the street into “ Above Bar ” and “ Below Bar.” A detour should here be made from High Street to the magnificent modern *St. Mary’s Church, the principal Cli. of Southampton. It was built, at a cost of about 25,000Z., 1879-84, by G. E. Street, B.A. , as a memorial to Bp. Samuel Wilber- force, during the incumbency of his son, Cauon Basil Wilberforce. This is the mother Ch. of Southampton, and dates back to the 11th cent., but was in a ruinous condition before the rebuilding. Some interesting drawings of its state at the time are preserved in the vestry. The ex¬ ternal view is disappointing, the tower being as yet oDly half-built; but the interior and all the fittings are of the most dignified character. The spacious baptistery has a great marble font for use in cases of total immersion. All the windows are of stained glass, mostly good, though some are very inferior. The Bectory , which is known as the “ Deanery,” stands in large grounds. Returning to the High Street, below Holy Rood, and on the same side, is the Hartley Institute, with an extensive front, containing large lecture theatre, museum, library, reading-room, class-rooms, and pic¬ ture gallery, erected in pursuance of the will of Mr. H. R. Hartley, an old inhabitant (d. 1850), and on the site of his house, liberally enfran¬ chised, together with the property adjoining, by Queen’s College, Oxford. Of Mr. Hartley’s bequest, amounting to upwards of 100,000Z., more than 40,000Z. was consumed by legal expenses; 20,000Z. more went to effect a compromise with the testator’s relatives, and only 42,000Z. came into the hands of the corporation, who deserve all praise for the anxiety displayed by them to carry out the donor’s intentions in the best way. The museum (open free every day except Tues¬ day, then Gd.) contains the nucleus of a good natural history and econo¬ mic collection, and there is a School of Art in connection with South Kensington. It also has a fine library of Hampshire books, be¬ queathed by Sir Win. Cope, of Bramshill. The Chamber of Com¬ merce also occupies a part of the building. The records and regalia of the corporation are kept in the Audit House , a modern building on the other side of the High Street. Among them are a charter of John, and several ancient maces. The silver oar, the emblem of the town’s admiralty jurisdiction, is late (1708). Of the ancient town gates only 3 remain, South Gate and West Gate, both plain early Dec.; and *Bar Gate, across the High Street, the chief part of which is of later character and more enriched. (Bar is the old name for the gate itself; Gate — A.-S. geat — properly signi¬ fying the road, access to which was closed by the bar.) The Bar gate, though now in the centre of the town, was anciently the North gate, and was approached from without by a drawbridge across the wide moat that encircled the walls on the land side. It is a large handsome structure, 60 ft. broad and 60 ft. deep, and is in two stages. The shields of arms on it (among which occurs that of Scotland) are not ancient, and must all have been placed there after the accession pf Ill Route 6 .— Southampton. James I. It is of two periods ; the semicircular archway in the centre, with its round flanking towers, seen behind the machicolated N. front, being the original gate, and pro¬ bably of the same date (Edwardian) as the walls. The pointed arch, northward, is an addition of the 14tli cent. Two gloomy painted figures (temp. Charles il.) of Sir Beyis used to stand on either side, but were so much decayed that they have been taken down and are now in the Audit House. The two leaden lions “seiant” replace two that formerly kept watch in front of the bridge over the moat, and were the gift of William, son of Lord Chief Justice Lee, in 1704. The S. front of the gate, which had been atrociously modernised, and adorned with a wonderful figure of George III., “ in a Roman habit,” placed in a niche, has been passably well restored. Over the gate is an ancient apartment, now used as the Guildhall , which contains some early Dec. arches on the E. side. It was completely refitted in 1850. From the flat leads (which may be as¬ cended) a good general view of the town is obtained. The visitor may proceed from the Bar gate to inspect the remains of the *Town Walls, and the old houses connected with them. These are of no ordinary interest, and will repay close examination. Passing through the Bar and turning to the 1. down Bargate Street, which stands on the old ditch, traces of the N. front of the wall may be discovered among the houses in which it is buried. We soon reach the N.W. angle, where is the Arundel Tower, named from Sir John de Arundel, the governor of the castle at the time of the repulse of the French in 1377, and then turning S. pass a cylindrical turret, which rises above the houses, and come out on the shore of Southampton Water. The view here is a striking oiie. The long line of massive gray wall stretches itself out, very little changed since it assisted in repel¬ ling the French attack in 1377. It is probably a remnant of the town- walls, built early in the reign of John, who allowed the inhabitants 200 1. out of their, fee-farm rent, for their construction. The general character of what now exists is late Norm., but with many Dec. and Perp. additions. The road here, beneath the wall, known as the Western Shore Road, was constructed about 1850. To the rt. are the commodious new Baths, and the new and greatly improved West Stat. Before this road was made the sea washed the base of the walls; and, in making the road, it was discovered that these had been simply built on the shore without foundation, the only protection being a row of piles in front, to prevent the earth being washed away. Passing on, we reach the site of the ancient Castle, first mentioned in records in the 15th year of King John. The wall, a portion of which, curiously arcaded, resembling the Jewry Wall at Leicester, still remains, ran in a crescent shape, the town-wall form¬ ing the chord of the arc. At the S.E. corner stood the Keep, on a high artificial mound. The wall was some years ago threatened with destruction, but better counsels pre¬ vailed, and the houses that were to occupy its site have been built on the high ground in the rear. A fine vault has been carefully preserved. The ground in front of the castle is known as the “ Tin shore.” Engle- field mentions “ Tin Cellars ” as existing in his time, and Speed states that “all Cornish tin was once brought to Southampton and kept in the Tin-house,” and that there was “ an office for tin duties kept in a house near Holyrood Ch., built about 1552.” 118 Route G.— Southampton. Passing on, at the foot of Simnel Street, formerly the bakers’ quarter as its name (simnel = fine manchet bread) implies (a dirty lane, full of picturesque dilapidated tenements, containing some vaults and old rooms worth inspection, notably one oppo¬ site to Pepper Alley), was a low postern known as Biddlesgate , imme¬ diately beyond which is the most in¬ teresting portion of the walls, known as “the Arcade.” The town-wall here consists of a series of arches, 19 in number, carrying the parapet-wall and “ alure ,” or passage along it. Some of these arches are round, others pointed. The piers are con¬ nected with the wall of the house close behind, some of the windows of which are pierced in the inter¬ vening arches. The arrangement is very unusual in external fortifica¬ tions, and the arches seem to have been introduced in order to avoid the necessity of pulling down houses previously existing, the external windows being blocked up, and the arcade added to make a wall of suf¬ ficient strength and thickness to bear the alure, and afford space for the machicolations. The spaces behind, at the top of the arches, are open, and form a succession of wide machicolations, possibly in¬ tended for letting down beams, by which the action of the catapult might be resisted. (Remark the difference of masonry between the town-wall and the houses behind it, proving the greater antiquity of the latter.) The most interesting point is at Blue Anchor Lane, a steep alley leading to St. Michael’s Square, defended by a postern-gate. At the bottom of this lane are two houses of very remarkable age and charac¬ ter ; of one almost the only original feature is a Norm, door, but the second, called King John’s Palace, on the S. side of the lane, “ is pro¬ bably one of the oldest houses remaining in England, being of rather earlier character than any other known example of the 12th cent.”— Hudson Turner. Henry II. is said to have waited here for the arrival of the White Ship. It wants the roof, and one of its walls was blown down in 1866, but it deserves careful examination. The principal dwelling-rooms were on the first- floor, where the fireplace remains, with Norm, shafts in the jambs. The corbels hanging over the lane sup¬ port the chimney, which from with¬ out resembles a plain Norm, buttress. The doorway is here on the ground- floor, whereas in other examples of this period it is placed, for safety’s sake, on the first, with an external ladder or staircase. All the windows had two lights, like those which remain perfect. There is, as usual, a passage in the thickness of the wall on the first-floor, which possibly communicated with the town-walls. The old water-gate should be noticed. The house, which was formerly used as a coal-store, has lately been restored, and put in charge of a custodian. Several other houses in Blue Anchor Lane deserve attention, though much later than those already mentioned. We now come to Westgate, open¬ ing on to the West Quay, plain, but strongly fortified, with grooves for three portcullises. The arches arc pointed. Through this gate the French forced their way in 1338. An old house close by served as a mediaeval guard-room. Beyond this the wall makes a sweep to the S., and part is in a private garden. Proceeding along Cuchoo Lane , the visitor emerges by the stucco front of the Royal Southern Yacht Clubhouse. Close to this is the Eoyal Victoria Pier, built in 1832, and opened by her present Majesty when Princess Victoria, but recently much enlarged, which serves as a public promenade. 119 Haute G.— Southampton. Here the steamers leave for the Isle of Wight. At the corner of Bugle Street, an ancient storehouse, with singular cylindrical buttresses, known as the “ Spanish Prison,” merits notice. In the reign of Queen Anne a large number of Spanish prisoners were confined here, when fever broke out among them, and 200 of the poor wretches died, and were buried hard by. Passing French Street , we find ourselves at Water¬ gate Quay , taking its name from “ the Watergate,” at the bottom of the High Street, a small plain en¬ trance, pulled down in 1804. The Castle Hotel still incloses part of the ancient town-wall. Going along Porter’s Lane, near the site of the old Custom-house, we find another ancient house, called the King’s House, now used as a cow-shed, and traditionally said to have been a royal palace, though more probably a house for collecting the king's dues (c. 1150). ‘ ‘ The ancient frontage has been much mutilated, and the date of the house can only be determined from the very scanty architectural features which remain. There is a window with segmental arch and dripstone, having the usual Norm, abacus moulding at the imposts, continued as a string along the wall. The window is closed by wooden shutters, and was apparently never glazed ’’ (Hudson Turner). Continuing eastward, we enter Winltle Street, in which (1) stands the Domus Dei, or “ God’s House,” an ancient hospital or almshouse, of the same character, and bearing the same name, as those so frequent in old Flemish towns. It is dedi¬ cated to St. Julian, the patron of travellers, and is one of the earliest hospitals remaining in England, being of the end of the 12th cent. It was perhaps at first intended for the reception of pilgrims (there were similar establishments at most of the old seaports), and after it had been granted by Ed¬ ward III. to Queen’s College, Oxford, to which it still belongs, it became a kind of Sanitarium for sick fellows. It now supports and lodges 8 poor persons. The buildings, which were highly interesting and little altered, had become so completely dilapi¬ dated that it was necessary to pull them down. The present alms¬ houses were erected in 1860, and at the same time the allowance to the almspeople was increased. The chapel, which was the most inte¬ resting part, has been well and faithfully restored, but the charm of antiquity is gone. It is Trans.- Norm., with some very good work. Kemark the sculptured capitals of the chancel arch. The tower is of the same period, but has lost its original gabled roof. It was granted by Elizabeth to the Walloon refu¬ gees, who long kept up a scanty succession of representatives here, as they have done at Canter¬ bury, but is now ‘occupied by a congregation using the Anglican Service in French. In this chapel were buried (1415) the Earl of Cambridge, Lord Scroop of Masham, and Sir Thomas Grey, who suffered as traitors, outside the Bar gate, on account of a conspiracy against the life of Henry V., discovered whilst his army was waiting here to embark for France. Hen. V., Act it.., Sc. 2. Numerous stone cellars, with arched vaults, remains of the stately merchants’ houses which once abounded here, still exist in this S. part of the town. At the end of Winkle Street is the Bridewell Gate, attached to which is a picturesque tower called by Le- land a “ castelet,” traditionally said to have been built by Henry VIII., but manifestly of earlier date, in¬ tended for the defence of the sluices to the town ditch. The gate and tower were long used as the town gaol, but now as town stores. 120 Route 6.— Southampton. The wall here turned to the N., and traces of it are to be distin¬ guished in the uninviting lane known as “ Bach of the Walls.” The East gate was pulled down about 1770. The postern, in York Buildings, was opened about 1760. The Cross-house, or ancient wait¬ ing-place for passengers by the old ferry to Itchen (a little above the steam-ferry), is a very rare example of its kind. On The Platform, a raised prome¬ nade by the shore in front, is a piece of ordnance, said to have been re¬ covered from the 4 Mary Rose ’ (see Portsmouth, Rte. 1), bearing the date 1542, and Henry’s then new title of “ Fidei Defensor,” with two Russian guns, and others used for saluting. The pleasant open space here behind is known as Queen’s Park. In it is a statue of Gen. Gordon, killed at Khartoum, 1885, who was connected with Southampton. The town is well supplied with open spaces. On either side of Above Bar, the continuation of High Street, are the East and West Parks, and close to the latter a space called West Marlands, used for reviews and drills. A little further on is the beginning of The Avenue, lead¬ ing to the Common. The County Cricket Ground entrance is in North¬ lands Road, leading out 1. from the top of the Avenue. N. of the town, on the Winchester road, and approached by the Avenue of elms, is the Common, a park-like piece of ground of about 360 acres, covered with patches of thorn and fu. ze, with a large number of splen¬ did trees, which give it the appear¬ ance of a private domain. The Cemetery occupies 15 acres of the Common, and deserves a visit. About f m. above the Bar is the Central Office of the Ordnance Survey, ori¬ ginally built as an asylum for sol¬ diers’ children, which employs a staff of 750 here, out of about 2500 in all. Near this was Bevois Mount, the seat of the eccentric Lord Peterborough, the hero of the War of the Succession, and perhaps the most striking union of great wit and madness that the world has ever seen. Here he spent the last days of his life, with his wife Anastasia Robinson, building and gardening, entertaining Pope and Swift, and writing indignant notes on the margin of Burnet’s History. The Docks, close to the railway terminus, which have brought such a tide of prosperity to the town, were begun by a company in 1836, on the Mudlands, a tract of 200 acres, overflowed at high water, at the mouth of the Itchen. They were opened in 1842, but have been greatly enlarged since their purchase by the L. & S. W. Rly. They now comprise a tidal basin of 16 acres, and a floating basin of 10 acres, with 56 ft. width of entrance, and 5 dry docks or graving docks, one of which, the new one, is the largest dry dock in England, being 750 ft. long by 87 ft. wide. The fine Empress Dock, opened by the Queen, 1890, covers no less than 18| acres, and has a depth of 26 ft. of water at the lowest spring-tide. It is approached from Southampton Water by a passage 165 ft. wide. Further extensions also are con¬ tinually in progress. The iron shears for raising masts or heavy machinery into or out of ships are worked by steam, and can raise 100 tons. The dock wharves are tra¬ versed by more than 20 miles of rails. The hands employed on the estates number nearly 3000. Adjoin¬ ing the docks are the Royal Mail Packet Yard, workshops, and boiler factory. 121 Route 6 .-—Southampton Water. ( d ) Excursions. Southampton is an excellent centre for excursions, both by boat and railway, though the immediate neighbourhood of the town is much spoilt by its recent growth. The most interesting places in its out¬ skirts, Netley Abbey and Hospital, and Bittern (the Roman Clausen - turn) are described in Rte. 12. Beaulieu Abbey can be reached from Beaulieu Road Stat. (Rtes. 13, 14), or by crossing in the ferry-steamer to Hythe, and walking or driving thence. This gives access to the coast portion of the New Forest, a rarely visited district of much beauty and interest. The main part of the New Forest is most easily reached from Lynd- hurst Boad or Brockenhurst Stats. (Rte. 14), but is quite within a day’s driving excursion from South¬ ampton itself. The grand Abbey Ch. of Bomsey is reached by two lines; from the Docks Stat. via Eastleigh (Rte. 11), or from either the Docks or the West End Stat. via Redbridge (Rte. 10). Winchester, Salisbury, Portches- ter, Portsmouth, Christchurch, and Bournemouth, are quite within a day’s excursion to a tourist pressed for time. Coives is only 1 hr. distant by steamer, and a good deal of the Isle of Wight can be seen—with some exertion and careful saving of time —in a single day. The less hurried tourist will find an exceedingly varied and pleasant excursion for a summer day by chartering a sailing- boat at the Pier for a day round the shores of the Southampton Water. (e) Southampton Water is an es¬ tuary about 1£ m. wide and 10 m. long, extending from Calshot Castle to Eling and Redbridge, where the Test falls into it. The town of Southampton is about 3 m. from the head of the estuary. On the E. of Southampton Water, 3J m. from the Pier, is Netley Hospital (Rte. 12), with the mouth of the Hamble river lower down, and the Titchfield river at the extremity, where the coast bears round by Lee-on-the- Solent (Rte. 4), to Stokes Bay and Portsmouth Harbour. On the W. side, opposite to the Pier, is Crack- nor Hard , to which there is a ferry for Marclnvood barracks and maga¬ zines. Opposite to Netley Hospital is Hythe, with a long Pier, to which frequent ferry-steamers cross. Beau¬ lieu Abbey may be reached by this way. Hythe Ch. is modern. 1 m. W. of Hythe is the picturesque Ch. of Dibden (deep dene, or hollow), which is mostly E. E., with a modern tower. It has an ancient font. Below is the forest-like domain of Cadland Bark (A. C. Drummond, Esq.), with fine views over the water. The house, built in 1773, was much enlarged in 1836. Beyond, 8 m. from Southampton, is Fawley (Rte. 14). 2 m. below Fawley, standing on the very point of a projecting bar of shingle, at the mouth of Southampton Water, is Calshot Castle, which dates, like Net- ley Castle, from the time of Henry VIII. It was built with stones from Netley, and roofed with lead from Beaulieu Abbey. It is now occupied by the Royal Engineers. Calshot has been identified by some writers with Cerdices-ora, where, in 495, Ceidic and Cynric landed their invading force. The mediteval form of the name, Kalkes-ore, is in favour of this view. A short distance W. of Calshot rises the tower of Eagle- hurst, the residence of the late Count Batthyany, originally known as “Luttrell’s Folly,” from its builder, Temple Luttrell. The view hence across the Solent is very fine, taking in almost the whole N. coast of the Isle of Wight. A passing glance of 122 Route 7- all these places is obtained from tlie deck of the steamer from Southamp¬ ton to Cowes. ROUTE 7. BASINGSTOKE TO READING, [STRATFIELD SAVE, SIL- CHESTER]. (G. W. RLY. 15£ m.) A short hut very important branch line from Basingstoke (Rte. 6) to Beading connects the main lines of the Great Western and South Western Elys. This branch affords the easiest access to Strcitfield Sciye and Silchester. 5 m., Bramley Stat. Bramley Church, f m. W., is of considerable interest, especially for its wall- paintings, and may easily be com¬ bined with a visit to Silchester. Sil¬ chester is about equidistant (3J m.) from Bramley and Mortimer Stats., so that an excursionist from Basing¬ stoke can go by one and return by the other. *Bramley Church is of various styles, the oldest part being Trans.- Norm., of flint and tiles from Sil¬ chester. The red-brick tower is of 1640. The vanes on the S. transept, a Moor’s head crowned, are the crest of the Brocas family. Inside, an early Perp. window with some fragments of old glass, the Dec. S. chancel window with piscina in the sill, the rood-staircase, and Dec. priest’s door may be noticed. The -Bramley. font is Trans.-Norm., of Purbeck, with restored shafts. The W. gal¬ lery of 1728 still survives. The wooden panelled ceiling of the nave and sanctuary is of late Perp. date. The modern woodwork of the chancel is good, and deserves notice. In the chancel is a monument, like a pyramid, to Dr. Thomas Shaw, Principal of St. Edmund’s Hall, Oxford, the Oriental traveller, who died at Bramley, of which he was vicar, 1751. The wall-paintings were all dis¬ covered and most carefully treated by the Eev. 0. Eddy, vicar, 1869- 1892. They are of various dates from the 13th to the 17th cents., later work sometimes being painted over the earlier, and the whole of the walls, including the splays of the windows, must once have been covered with them. The most in¬ teresting, and valuable as an early record, is the Murder of Ah'p. Bechet on the S. wall, which is probably of the 13th cent. A paper copy of it, which can be much better seen, is hung in the chancel. In this Brito and Fitzurse are slaying the Abp., De Tracy in front is striking at his sacristan, while De Morville with sword erect stands behind. On the opposite wall is an elaborate St. Christopher (c. 1500), which should be compared with the finer treat¬ ment of the same subject at Shor- well ( H.Bk.for Isle of Wight), which is c. 1440, and with one recently dis¬ covered at Aldermaston , Berks, not far from here. Notice the mermaids below, with glass and comb. The S. transept , which belongs to Beaurepaire Park, was built by the Brocas family in 1801. The S. window is filled with fine glass of the Liege School, early 18th cent. In the centre of the transept is a large monument of Bernard Brocas, by Banks. There are also two Brasses , Gwen (More) Shelford (1504), and Bichard and Alexander Carter (1529). Route 7.— Silcliester. 123 Peaurepaire Park, J m. S.W., in the parish of Sherborne St. John (A. Welch-Thornton, Esq.), was the seat of the Brocas family from about 1300 to 1870. The park (280 acres) is well timbered, and the house, which is partly ancient, is sur¬ rounded by a moat, crossed by chain- bridges. Sherfield-on-Loddon, 2 m. S.E. of Bramley Stat., has a Dec. Ch. which formerly belonged to Merton Priory in Surrey. It has been richly restored at the cost of the Rev. A. G. Barker, formerly rector. The N. chancel-aisle belongs to Sher- field Manor (C. Lethbridge, Esq.). Hartley Wespall, 3 m. from Bramley Stat. (or from Hook Stat., Rte. 6), has a Dec. Ch. which embodies much of the timber of an earlier timbered Ch. It has an oak chancel-screen, and handsome ala¬ baster reredos. 8J m., Mortimer Stat. Carriages can be hired here for SilChester or Stratfield Saye. This Stat. is about 1 m. across the Berkshire border. The parish, in full Stratfield Mor¬ timer, has a handsome modern Ch., given by the late R. Benyon, Esq. On the S. wall of the chancel are brasses of Richard and Johanna Trevet (1441), and an incised slab. Excursion to Silcliester. One of the most interesting ex¬ cursions in England is to **Sil- chester , the Roman city of Calleva, which no one with archaeological tastes should omit. It is about equidistant (3| m.) from Mortimer and Bramley Stats', so that one can be used for going and the other for return; but a carriage is more readily procured at Mortimer, and all trains stop there, but not always at Bramley. From Aldermaston Stat., on the Reading and Newbury line, it is about 4 m. The drive from Basingstoke is about 8£ m. A pedestrian from Mortimer should take a footpath on the N. side of the Ch. The nearest Inn is on Sil- cbester Common, about J m. outside the W. gate, but the usual entrance is by the site of the E. gate, through the farmyard close to the Ch. “ It is,” wrote Lord Jeffrey, “about the most striking thing I ever saw; and the effect of that grand stretch of shaded wall, with all its antique roughness and over¬ hanging wood, lighted by a low autumnal sun, and the sheep and cattle feeding in the green solitude at its feet, made it a picture not soon to be forgotten.”— Life , by Lord Cockburn. But a tourist will only be courting disappointment if he goes expecting to see a Pompeii. The treasures of Silchester are for the most part underground, or in Reading Mu¬ seum. ‘ ‘ The first feeling is perhaps one of disappointment. The walls do not stand out in the same stately sort as the walls of Anderida (Pevensey). those walls which stood as they stand now when William landed beneath them. In a country where stone is precious, Silchester walls and Reading Abbey Ch. have alike been found useful as quarries.”—• Freeman. The objects to be seen are the ivalls, of whieh the circuit is nearly perfect, one plain corridor 'pavement left in situ , the museum, a few foundations, especially of the basi¬ lica, and the parish Church. The name, Silchester, “is of un¬ known meaning, related, perhaps, to that of the great earthwork, Silbury Hill , in Wilts. It has been variously referred to the A.-S. sel, * good,’ ‘ noble ’; to sigel, * the sun ’ ; to the people called the Silures; and to the Lat. silva, ‘a wood,’ being on the borders of Pamber Forest ; but it probably preserves a 124 Route 7. Silchcster. fragment of a more ancient name, as it is the Caer Segebit , or Segont of Nennius, and according to Henry of Huntingdon was called Segontium , while British coins with the legend Sego are assigned to it.” — Isaac Taylor , ‘ Names and Histories.’ 4 4 The name Calleva possibly meant a town in a wood (Rhys, Celtic Britain). An allied Welsh word is celli, a wood, and the simpler form, cell, a grove. The name in Domesday Book is Cilcestre, and the spelling Cilchestre occurs in official records as late as the 14th cent. Shore, Popular County His¬ tories, Hants. The history of Silchester is almost a complete blank, except so far as it is being skilfully interpreted from the excavations. The Roman walls are built within and perhaps partly upon earlier Celtic earth¬ works, the site of a vast British fortification. This, it is generally agreed, was Caer Segont , the chief town of the Segontiaci, a tribe in¬ habiting Hants and Berks. These were conquered by the Atrebates (or Attrebates), under whom ap¬ parently the name became Calleva , and hence by the Romans it was known as Calleva Atrehatum. Of the date of its Roman occupation we have no record whatever, but it must have been after the Roman Peace was established in Southern Britain. It was evidently more of a commercial and less of a military city than almost any other in Eng¬ land. It stood in the direct line of the great Roman road passing west to Bath from London ; branch roads connected it with Sorbiodu- num (Salisbury), and Venta Bel- garum (Winchester), and with the north. It is noticeable that while this road forms for some distance the boundary between Hants and Berks, and thus would bisect the city between the two counties, at Sil- chester a loop is made, enclosing the whole parish in the county of Hants. From the excavations it would seem to have been partly ravaged by fire, perhaps about 300 a.d., but coins of Honorius and Arcadius being found here show that it was occupied as long as the Roman occupation of Britain lasted. The Brito-Roman city is said to have been taken by the Saxon iElla, on his march to Bath, soon after the destruction of Andredesceastre (Pevensey) in 490; and like that, it seems to have been afterwards all but deserted. This may have been connected with the great repulse of the English by Arthur about 520. It is curious to find from the Itinerary of King John that he paid a visit to the site. May 19, 1215, on his way to Odiham Castle (Rte. 3), and, oddly enough, a silver penny of that king is the only post-Roman object found during the excavations now in progress. The city was planned, not very accurately, by Stukeley in 1722, and various coins and other relics were, of course, turned up from time to time by the plough, includ¬ ing a set of baths found in 1833; but no systematic attempt at explo¬ ration w r as made until 1864, when, with the aid of the 2nd Duke of Wellington (to whom the site belonged), the Rev. J. G. Joyce, F. S.A., Rector of Stratfield Saye, de¬ voted much time and labour to tho work. The results of his valuable labours are to be found in Archx- ologia, esp. vol. xlvi. After Mr. Joyce’s death little was done until 1890, when, with the concurrence of the present Duke, a Silchester Excavation Fund, under the auspices of the Society of Anti¬ quaries of London, was started for systematic exploration. The work has been entrusted to the competent hands of W. H. St. John Hope and G. E. Fox, Esqs., with several other able antiquaries, and the extremely valuable results of their labours are regularly recorded in the vols. of Archxologia, the publication of the Route 7.— Silchester. 125 Society of Antiquaries, illustrated ■with beautiful plates. The princi¬ pal discoveries are now deposited, on loan from, the Duke, in a special department of the Reading Museum, under the care of Dr. Stevens, the Curator, where they can he con¬ veniently examined. The architec¬ tural-room in particular deserves especial notice. For a full study of Silchester, a visit to Reading is therefore necessary. “Though the tide of Roman life,” wrote Mr. Joyce, “was not here arrested at a moment, yet it bears in one particular a curious similarity to Pompeii, and one in which scarcely any other Roman remains can be said to participate to the same extent. Silchester has never been lived upon, or built over, by any subsequent civilisation. It remains at this hour exactly as it was when the hand of destruction first overtook it. Hence almost every detail of plan and dimension is complete. It is need¬ less to add that so unique a relic possesses almost more than a national value, for it has a peculiar charm for every educated man, whatever may be the language he may use to express his thoughts.” Before entering the walls a visit should be paid to the Amphitheatre, which stands about 150 yds. from the N.E. corner. It is, perhaps, the largest in Britain, except Maumbury Bings, near Dorchester, which is about 73 by 46 yds., while this is 50 by 40, or about the same as that at Cirencester. It is thickly over¬ grown with trees and brushwood, but the vomitoria, or principal exits, are plainly visible. All traces of the ranges of seats have been destroyed. Some bone tablets have been dug up here which are thought to have been the tickets of admis¬ sion. In a field behind the cottage at the N.W. corner is a fine spring, with some remains of Roman stone coping near it. The Roman walls of Silchester are 2670 yds. in circuit, and inclose an area of 102 acres (about as large as that within the old walls of London). The parish Ch. and a farmhouse are now the only buildings within the area; the rest is divided into fields, along which, in dry weather, the lines of the ancient streets may be distinctly traced, and “ relics of imperial Rome ” may be seen at the farm in the form of sundry frag¬ ments of columns, one of which does duty as a horse-block. There were, as usual, 4 principal streets, with three of which the lesser ones ran parallel. The walls, which have lost several courses, are now in general about 12 ft. high and 9 ft. thick at the base, and, unlike Ihosc of Roman towns generally, form an irregular polygon, drawm -within the limits of the older British town: no tiles are used in them, but double courses of stone slabs supply their places, resembling the bondings at Portchester (Rte. 4). The mass of the walls is built of flint rubble, disposed so as to run in as regular courses as the material would allow. The wall is most perfect on the S. side, where it is about 15 ft. high, and retains a few traces of the facing of, dressed flints. The internal level is 8 or 10 ft. higher than the external, partly, no doubt, as at Pevensey, resulting from the original arrangement, and partly from the accumulations of centuries. The ditch, which was about 80 ft. wide and 12 ft. deep, cau be traced nearly all round the city ; it is most perfect on the S.W. side. There were of course four princi¬ pal gates, at the main points of the compass, besides at least two lesser gates, one on the N.E., opposite and leading to the Amphitheatre, the other on the W., a little to the S. of the West gate, discovered in 1896. The Nortf? and South gates were sin- 126 Route 7.— Silchester. gle, with a tower for defence through which the roadway passed, but they had no guard chambers. The en¬ trance arch of each gate was about 13 ft. wide. Two large Doric capi¬ tals and other important architec¬ tural fragments found at the S. gate, but not belonging to it, are now in the Beading Museum. Of the East gate tho mere footing of the masonry remains, underground, in the farm¬ yard, but this shows that an extent of wall about 29 ft. long was re¬ cessed 9 ft. between two towers, each about 12 ft. square, and pierced in the centre by two archways, each 12 ft. wide. Within and behind each flanking tower were two guard-rooms. Contrary to what is usually observed in Boman towns, the gate faces S.E., on account of the direction of the portion of the wall in which it is set. The base of the West gate was uncovered in 1890, and found to be in a much more perfect state than the East gate, to which it was similar in character. A beautiful model of it may be seen in the Beading Museum. A fine Corin¬ thian capital was found here, but does not seem to belong to the gate. It is now in the Beading Museum. The great size of the city com¬ pared with other Boman walled towns, except London, to which it is about equal, is made more striking by its total emptiness, except at the N.E. corner. Two roads, of course, traversed the city at right angles between the main gates, one passing on the W. and the other on the N. side of the Forum. The city was divided by intersecting streets into insulai or blocks. The larger houses seem generally to have been arranged round courtyards surrounded by corridors, out of which the rooms opened, as better suited to our climate than the Italian system, with which they had nothing whatever in common. Two ruined hypocausts of a large house are roofed over, close to the hut which serves as a Museum, and can be examined. One of the mosaic pavements dis¬ covered in this house has been removed to Stratfleld Saye for pre¬ servation. Very many coins were found in the various apartments, ranging from Claudius I. (a.d. 50) to near the time of the withdrawal of the Bomans from Britain. A much larger find of 253, all of them silver denarii, ranging from M. Antonius to Septimius Severus (a.d. 200), was made in 1894, not far from the W. gate. They were claimed by the Treasury, but after deducting 39 required for the British Museum the rest were re¬ turned, and are in the Beading Museum. In the centre of the city is the Forum, which, with its double ambulatory, shops, and the Basilica, occupied a space of 310 ft. by 275 ft. This is of very singular interest, as it remains entirely perfect in plan, and the original purposes of most of the various halls, chambers, and shops, have been approximately determined. The Forum occupied the eastern and larger part, having shops on the N. and E., and various public offices on S. From articles found therein, the shops have been assigned to, among others, money¬ changers, butchers, a dealer in poul¬ try and game, and a fishmonger, the latter because he had a complete stratum of oyster-shells on his pre¬ mises. This is a valuable instance of the danger of guess-work on such subjects. A vast stratum of oyster- shells is now found to underlie a whole block E. of the Forum. The probable explanation given is that they were used for making lime for fine stucco work, where in Italy broken marble would have been employed. On the whole W. side of the j Route 7.— Silchester. 127 Forum extends the Basilica, a noble hall flanked with aisles divided by rows of columns, 270 ft. long by 60 ft. wide, with one apsidal tri¬ bunal at its N., and another at its S. end, and a space for assemblies between. On the W. side is a series of 6 large chambers, presumably legal ofiices, except the large one in the centre of the range, which was probably the curia, or senate-house. Of all these spacious chambers, how¬ ever, nothing remains but the outline of their several floors. No statues, altars, or inscriptions have been found, nothing indeed beyond some fragments of Corinthian capitals of a very enriched style and excellent workmanship, such as might be assigned to the reign of Hadrian, and could not have been produced in the time of Diocletian or of Con¬ stantine the Great. The remains of the most perfect of these are in the Heading Museum. Not one pillar, nor even a base, has been found standing where the Eoman workman originally placed it. Everything here has not alone sustained the shock of time, but has also passed through an ordeal of violence and fire. A bronze eagle, presumably the head of a legionary standard, was found under a layer, 10 in. in depth, of burnt wood in the Basilica. This almost unique relic is pre¬ served at Stratfield Saye. In the insula S. of the Forum, the foundations of a Temple have been discovered. The cella was 35|- ft. in diameter, and circular within, but a 16-sided polygon on the outer wall. It stood upon a 'podium 65 ft. in diameter. No trace of the dedica¬ tion has been discovered, but it was almost certainly Pagan, though it may have been put to Christian use subsequently. In 1892 the supremely interesting discovery was made of an un¬ doubtedly Christian Church, near the S.E. corner of the Forum. It was of the basilican type, and aisled, 42 ft. long, externally, by 24 wide. The narthex, or porch, is at the E. end and the apse at the W. The W. ends of the aisles appear to have been walled off like quasi-transepts. The walls were certainly painted throughout, and the altar stood on a panel of fine tessellated mosaic. “ Had its foundations been found on any other but a Roman site, the building would very probably have been claimed as an early Saxon Church. There can, however, be no question, from its tessellated floor alone, that it is a Roman build¬ ing . . . The building of the church may safely be assigned to the period between Constantine’s Edict of Toleration, issued in 313, and the official withdrawal of the legions about a century later.” — Archceo- logia, vol. liii. p. 567. Near the S. gate were found the outlines of a large square building in connexion with a set of baths. This is, with much probability, judged to have been a Hospitium, or public Guest. House. What were the principal com¬ mercial industries of this consider¬ able [city is very doubtful, and will perhaps be further elucidated as the excavations proceed; but several small furnaces in the W. quarter are thought to be the remains of large dyeing works. Madder and woad would be the principal vege¬ table dyes, but woad can only be grown in the very richest soil, and would probably have to be fetched from the fenlands. In a wooden hut a very interest¬ ing Museum has been formed, chiefly of objects found in the earlier explorations. (A fee of 6d. is charged for admission, which goes to local charities.) The in¬ scribed stones, unfortunately, are very few, and no Eoman site has 128 Route 7.— Silchester. proved so barren of them. Of those recorded by early explorers, only one is now known to exist, a sepul¬ chral inscription mentioned by Cam¬ den as in the possession of Lord Burghley, and now in the library of Trinity College, Cambridge. An inscription to the Hercules of the Segontiaci is described by Dr. Ward in Philosophical Transactions , Dec. 13th, 1744, but is now lost. But if such remains are far more scanty than might be expected, the relics of another kind, belonging to do¬ mestic affairs, are abundant and highly interesting, in many cases showing the antiquity of some things usually considered of modern invention; this is especially notice¬ able with the locksmith’s art. Broken mill-stones have been dug up in large numbers, and the sup¬ ply of pottery is abundant, red Samian, Durobrivian, and gray Upchurch ware, but no perfect ves¬ sels occur. Many have, however, since been found in the excavations, principally in the rubbish-pits which abound. Of glass there is little: one drinking-cup, and some frag¬ ments of window glass. Coins have been found, from Augustus to Ar- cadius, a period of almost five cen¬ turies, giving the heads of sixty- four Imperial personages. Many tiles occur, some bearing the prints of the nailed boots of the makers, others the “ slots ” of wild animals, one with some fragments of hex¬ ameters, ending with “puellam,” and another on which is rudely scratched the name “ Birgilius ” (Virgilius). The greater part of the relics ex¬ humed are of iron or bronze. These include, of the first, hinges of various sizes, pairs of rings for the leaves of double doors (from the Basilica), many keys, especially from the shops in the Forum, spring lock- bolts with snap to close the end of a chain, the same to fasten the lid of a heavy chest, a variety of great nails and iron clamps ; also knives, chisels, axe-heads, and the small trimming hammer of a worker in mosaic floors, found along with a stock of tesserae. In bronze are some few enamelled brooches, many fibulae, of the ordinary type (some very perfect) ; children’s toys, such as a tiny chopper, a gridiron, an anchor, a game cock, a little horse like a rocking-horse; single and double studs, a lock-bolt, with in¬ tricate wards in the bolt itself, finger rings, two of which have keys forming a portion of the hoop; hair¬ pins, tweezers, and small toilette implements; and one very small statuette of a man wearing the Gabine cincture. It is remarkable that not a single gold coin has been found in these recent excavations (though some have occurred formerly), nor any trace of British occupation, except two coins and a very remarkable moulded pillar with Ogam inscrip¬ tion, lately found. This is now at Beading. After the ruins of the city, the tourist should certainly visit the parish Church, which stands in almost lonely dignity within the walls near the E. gate (key at the farmhouse close by). It was re¬ stored in 1877 by Wyatt. It has an E. E. doorway and nave arcades, and several early lancet and quatre- foiled windows. The belfry is sup¬ ported on a wooden frame intruded between the W. bay of the nave. Under a cinquefoiled arch in the wall is a fine 14th-cent. stone effigy of a lady. The oak screen is Perp., and has a curious perforated crest¬ ing. In the chancel are a piscina and two aumbries, and an oak 16th- cent. altar-table. The E. win¬ dow is by Clayton and Bell. The font is a plain octagon. In the ch.-yd. at the E. end are two coffin-slabs, one with a head in a quatrefoil, and the other of a 129 Houle 7 .—Stratfield Sage. knight and lady, probably early Dec. Upon Mortimer Heath, N. of Sil- chester, is a small square intrench- ment, the N.E. side of which forms the boundary between the counties of Hants and Berks. The boundary is marked in another place by a stone called the “ Imp Stone ” (pro¬ bably some portion of an inscription, imp., was once visible), by local tradition said to have been thrown from Silchester by a giant, whose finger-marks may still be seen on it. Two farms in this neighbourhood, called “Dane’s” and “Alfred’s” Acres, perhaps indicate the site of a battle. From Mortimer Stat. to Reading is 7 m. (For Beading see H.Blc. for Berkshire .) 3 m. S.E. of Mortimer Stat. is Stratfield Saye, the seat of the Duke of Wellington. Stratfield Saye is one of three parishes, the other two being Strat¬ field Turgis and Stratfield Mortimer (the last mainly in Berkshire), which derive their names from the great Roman road ( street ) running from Bath through Silchester to London. The road is still visible for much of its course, and is called the “ Devil’s Highway.” The sur¬ rounding country is pleasant, witli (on the Berkshire side) much waste heath dotted with fir plantations, among which hamlets and detached cottages occur at wide intervals. From Mortimer Stat. the Park will be entered on its N. side, by an avenue of Cornish elms 1 m. in length. “ These are the groves a grateful people gave For noblest service : and from age to age May they to such as come with listening ear Relate the story.”— Rogers. Few trees are more fitted for an [ Hants .3 avenue than the Cornish elm, and the general effect here is very fine. The park, about 1 m. broad by li long,* contains 1500 acres. It is much diversified and has some fine old trees, oaks, elms, and thorns, scattered over its heights and hol¬ lows. Through it flows the slow Loddon, which near the house is expanded into several sheets of ornamental water. Stratfield Saye, which belonged, soon after the Conquest, to the family of Saye, passed by marriage to the Dabridgecourts in the reign of Richard II. In that of Charles I. it was purchased by Sir William Pitt, Comptroller of the Household (ancestor of the great Lord Chatham, who resided here often, as did his son). The 4th in descent from Sir William was created Lord Rivers in 1776; and from his representative the estate was purchased and pre¬ sented by the nation to the duke in 1815. A first grant of 100,000?. for the purchase of an estate had been made to the duke in 1812, after the battle of Salamanca. It was fol¬ lowed by two additional grants, of 400,000?. and of 200,000?.; the last after the battle of Waterloo. The estate is held of the Crown by the annual delivery of a tricoloured flag at Windsor on the 18th of June. These are hung in the guard-room, above the duke’s bust. Blenheim is held by the Duke of Marlborough in a similar manner. The duke laid out the greater part of the rental in permanent improvements, draining, &c., rebuilding labourers’ cottages, schools, farm-offices; all plain and practical, nothing without use. The house (which is not ordi¬ narily shown to visitors) dates for the most part from the reign of Queen Anne. It lies low, and there is nothing striking or imposing about it, either without or within. The principal ornament of the spacious Entrance Hall is the fine picture, by Barker , of the duke, ac- K 130 j Route 7 .—Stratfield Saye. companicd by Lord Fitzroy Somer¬ set, descending the Pyrenees ; it is large and striking, with full-length ligures, and has been very beauti¬ fully engraved. Opposite is a picture of the duke’s triumphal entry into Madrid. Among other paintings is an interesting portrait of the horse Copenhagen, which carried the duke at Yittoria and "Waterloo. The hall is surrounded by fine busts mounted on cippi of the celebrated contemporaries, or the companions in arms, of the great duke—among these is a very striking bronze of Massena. The most interesting historic relic, how¬ ever, is the duke’s banner, which formerly hung over his stall in St. George’s Chapel, Windsor, as K.G. Two of the earliest found of the pavements from Silchester are pre¬ served here. The bronze legionary Eagle, which was one of the most interesting finds, is also at Stratfield Saye. In the Dining-room are fine por¬ traits of the two great leaders of armies, Marlborough and Washing¬ ton, with some large hunting-pieces ; and in this and the adjoining apart¬ ments is the series of portraits of the family of Charles V. of Spain, from the Duke of Alva’s collection. They are all copies, but of high interest, nevertheless. In the Library are many pictures, though none of conspicuous value. Over the fireplace is a half-length of the duke, as he looked at his prime, from the pencil of Sir Thomas Lawrence. This most interesting picture delineates a very different person from the traditional idea, and it is said to be regarded by his Grace’s family as the best like¬ ness extant of him at the period when he fought the battle of Water¬ loo. Beside the paintings, there are, in various rooms, numerous engravings, mostly of historical events, but including also choice portraits of George IV., of William IV. and Queen Adelaide, and of the Queen and Prince Consort, all of whom had been entertained at Stratfield Saye by the Great Duke. On the S. side of the house is the conservatory, containing some fine orange-trees. Here the duke used to read his letters; and at the back were his private apartments, very simply furnished. In the grounds N. of the house, which are well kept, are some fine cedars of Lebanon, and some tulip- trees, said to be the largest in Eng¬ land. The gardens contain exten¬ sive pineries and forcing-houses. In a paddock near the S.E. corner a circular railing encloses a spot, planted with Irish yews, beneath which is the grave of Copenhage r n, who spent the last 10 years of his life in this paddock, receiving a daily allowance of bread from the hands of the duchess. He died in 1825, and was interred with military honours. The duchess used fre¬ quently to wear a bracelet made of his hair. The Church of Stratfield Saye is in the park, at no great distance from the house. It was rebuilt in 1784, in the form of a Greek cross, and contains some monuments re¬ moved from the older Cli.: of these, the most important is that (with effigies) of Sir W. Pitt, the comptroller (d. 1636). It also con¬ tains monuments to the Very Eev. the Hon. Gerald Wellesley, dean of Windsor (d. 1882), whose tomb is in the ch.-yd., and to the late Duke of Wellington (d. 1884). In the chancel are two late Brasses of the Dabridgecourts (1558 and 1594). In the ch.-yd. is a quaint epitaph to “ honest, harmless and simple ” John Baylie (d. 1777). A drive leads from the Ch. to the S. lodge, opening into the little village of Stratfield Turgis. The Ch. was rebuilt in 1792. Outside 131 Route 8 .- the Hecklield lodges, on the Reading road, is a Monument to the duke, erected in 1866, as the inscription states, by “ his son, and the tenants, servants, and labourers on the estates.” It consists of a bronze statue of the hero in the uniform of a field-marshal, designed, modelled, and cast by Baron Marochetti , placed on a pillar of Cornish granite; the total height is 82 ft. A short distance E. of Stratfield Saye is Heckfield Place (Hon. Miss Shaw-Lefevre), in a small, but finely wooded park. Heckfield Ch., adjoin¬ ing Highfield Park, was restored in 1877 and contains some monu¬ ments, including a brass of Eliza¬ beth Hall, 1511 (the husband lost). Mrs. Trollope, the well - known authoress, was born at Heckfield. 3 or 1 m. beyond are Bramshill Park and Eversley (Rte. 3). ROUTE 8. BASINGSTOKE TO SALISBURY, BY ANDOVER. (L. AND S. W. ELY.— MAIN LINE TO EXETER.) Leaving Basingstoke (Rte. 6), and passing on N. the new Church of Worting, we travel for about 1 m. on the Southampton line. Then that line turns oft' in a S.W. direction, and we reach at 41 m., Oakley Stat. The village is generally called Church Oakley, although, contrary to the usual rule in such cases, the Cb. is not of great size or importance. It is mainly late Perp. (c. 1500), having been rebuilt by Abp. Warham; it was much restored in 1869 by Wyatt. The arms and crest of the Warham family, impaled with those of the See of Canterbury, are in the span- drils of the W. door. In the ‘ Malshanger aisle ’ are some monu¬ ments of the Warham family, in¬ cluding a brass, 1487, of the father and mother of the Abp., who was the eldest son, and some old glass in which is a figure of the Abp. himself. In the tower has been inserted a curious piece of sculpture, dug up in the vicinity, representing a man with a dog’s head sur¬ rounded by a halo, supposed to be Anubis. The register dates from 1559, and the fine chalice from 1569. Oakley Park (W. W. B. Beach, Esq., M.P.) is close to the village, though the Hall itself (modern) is in the parish of Deane. The park is of about 500 acres, and is partly cut across by the line to South¬ ampton. Deane Ch., on the other side of the park, was built in 1818. It has a fine E. window of Belgian glass, representing the Crucifixion. S. of Deane is Ashe Park (P. Mor¬ timer, Esq.), on a pleasant hill. A long avenue leads to it from Ashe village, where the Ch. was rebuilt by Sir G. G. Scott, B.A. , but re¬ tains the old rood-screen. The Test rises near here. 1 m. N. of Oakley Stat. is Mal¬ shanger (W. S. Portal, Esq.), a modern mansion on the site of the ancient residence of the Warhams (of which a lofty octagonal tower still remains), the birthplace of William Warham, Abp. of Canter¬ bury from 1503 to 1532. Farther E. are Manydown Park (Sir E. P. Bates, Bart.), and Tangier Park (G. H. Pember, Esq.), adjoining 132 Boutc 8.— Whitchurch. each other. Both houses stand in the midst of finely wooded grounds. Manydown is of various periods from the 13th cent, onwards. Tangier was bnilt by Sir Thomas Hooke in 1662. At Wootton St. Lawrence, E. of Tangier, is a re¬ stored Ch., mainly E. E., but with a fine Norm, doorway and arcade of 4 bays, and also containing an effigy of Sir Thos. Hooke (date 1677), pro¬ bably by Banks. There is a fine yew in the ch.-yd. At Woodgarston, near Wootton, is a Celtic entrench¬ ment. 7f m., Overton Stat. This large village formerly had a market, and at an early period sent two members to Parliament; afterwards it had a silk mill, which employed many of its people, but now it is “ chiefly and almost only attractive to fishermen, for the trout of the little stream, which are ex¬ tolled.” Its large sheep fair, one of the most numerously attended in the kingdom, is held on July IS. Overton is the centre of the Yyne Hunt. The Ch. was almost rebuilt in 1853, and has lately been re¬ roofed and improved. It has a Trans.-Norm. arcade, a line 13th- eent. chancel roof, and an incised slab (15th cent.) of William Savage, rector. The registers are interest¬ ing. Near the Stat. is Quidliampton , an old manor-house, with remains of a Norm, chapel, now a stable. Chalk hills here form the whole N.W. of the county, whose steep, camp-crested heights arc seen in the distance N. of the line. This pictur¬ esque country has received the special praise of Cobbett. 1| m. W. of Overton is Laver¬ stoke House (Melville Portal, Esq.), built by Joseph Bonomi , AM.A., at the beginning of the centy., and standing in a park of 275 acres. In the adjoining village of Laver¬ stoke—where Mr. Portal’s admir¬ able cottages attract the attention of every passer-by as models of elegance, convenience, and economy —is a mill at which the paper used for the notes of the Bank of Eng¬ land is manufactured ; it was esta¬ blished here in the reign of George I. by the Portal family, French Pro¬ testant emigre's. There are no less than three churches in or close to Laverstoke Park. The old Ch. (St. Mary) in the park is now used as a mortuary chapel ( Woodyear , Arclit.). The Priory Chapel (St. Cross) of Freefolk Syfrewast was for a time made the parish Ch., with added chancel and transepts, but proved inadequate. The conjoined villages of Freefolk (or Freefolk Priors) and Laverstoke have now a fine modern * Church with spire on high ground by the Test. It was built by J. L. Pear¬ son , B.A. , mainly at the cost of the brothers Melville and Wyndham Portal, Esqs., and is of great beauty. The stained glass throughout is by Clayton and Bell. The triptych over the altar, in place of an E. window 7 , is a copy from the fine work of Friedrich Herlen (1466), in the Jacobskirche at Rothenburg in Bavaria. Under the tower is an altar-tomb, from the old Ch., of Sir Richard Poulett, of Herriard (1614). Ill m 7 Whitchurch Stat. Here the line from Didcot to Winchester (Rte.9)crosses theS.W. Rly.,and has a Stat., f m. distant, closer to the town. Though little more now than a straggling village it is a borough by prescription, still electiug a titular mayor, and possessing a borough seal, and before the Re¬ form Act it returned 2 members. In coaching days it w 7 as a bustling little place, standing at the crossing of the great Salisbury and London, and Oxford and Winchester roads. It was here that Cardinal Newman began, he says, the ‘ Lyra Ap°sto- Route 8.— Hurstbourne , 133 lica’ with the lines to his Guardian Angel— “ Arc these the tracks of some unearthly friend ? ” while waiting for the down mail to Falmouth, Dec. 1832, when about to start with R. H. Fronde on his south¬ ern tour (Apologia). The Church , originally E. E., restored 1868, with W. tower and octagonal spire, con¬ tains some Jacobean monuments of the Brooks family, including a brass of Richard Brooks and family (1603) on a tomb, besides some stone effi¬ gies of that family, in the aisle. By the chancel arch is a very remarkable effigy of a lady, with the inscription, Hie corpus Frith- hurgae requiescit in pace sepultum. It was found built up in the N. wall in 1868, and is supposed to be a nun of Wherwell (Rte. 10), of very early date. A library be¬ queathed by the Rev. W. Wood contains some rare theological books. The E. gate of Hurstbourne Park (post) is close to the Ch. 1 m. S. of the town, across the Test, is the small Norm. Ch. of Tufton, which has a wall-painting of St. Christo¬ pher, a hagioscope and piscina, and a black slab in aisle, dated 1527. 131 m., Hurstbourne Junct. Slat. (Loop line to Fullerton Junct, see Rte. 10.) A short distance S. of the Stat. is the N. gate of the large and well- wooded park (700 acres) of Hurst¬ bourne Parle (Earl of Portsmouth), which stretches up to Whitchurch. The trees in the more recently planted parts are, for the most part, disposed in thick masses, but there are some fine single trees, beech, ash, and whitethorn, of great age and size. Deer abound in the ferny combes and hollows. The Louse, which was a large, plain, brick structure, built in 1785, was burned to the ground in 1891, and is now rebuilt in Elizabethan style. It stands well, and looks across the valley to a fringe of blue distance, seen between low wooded hills. It contains some pictures worth notice ; also the MSS. of Sir Isaac Newton, which came to the Portsmouth family through Sir Isaac’s niece, Lady Lymington, and have been used by Sir David Brewster in his Life of Newton. In the Hall arc 4 large mytholo¬ gical subjects by Luca Giordano, of no great interest. In the Dining Boom remark the following por¬ traits :—Col. Henry W allop : Van- dyck. Sir John Wallop: assigned to Holbein, but apparently much later. Sir Henry Wallop and Sir Oliver Wallop : Nicholas Hilliard — the latter (exhibited at Manchester) a rare specimen in large of this cele¬ brated miniature - painter. Alicia Borlase, wife of John Wallop, and mother of the 1st Earl of Ports¬ mouth : Kneller. Urania, Countess of Portsmouth: Hoppner. John "Wallop (1740) : Hudson. Sir Isaac Newton,head size, signed, G. Kneller, 1689. This picture (exhibited at Manchester in 1857) should be in¬ quired for. It is one of the best existing portraits of the great philo¬ sopher, whose career so nobly illus¬ trates the lines of Lucretius, selec¬ ted by Sir David Brewster as the motto for his volumes— “ Ergo vivida vis animi pervicit, et extra Processit longe flammantia mcenia mundi; Atque omne immensum peragravit mente animoque.” In the Drawing Boom remark :—■ a violin-player: Guercino. The De¬ scent from the Cross: Herri van den Bles. Hope and Charity : Giuseppe Chiari. Two military subjects by Vandermeulen (?). Paradise, and the Morning after the Deluge : Boe- lant Savery (1576-1639). In the Corridor is a cartoon in red and black chalk, which claims to be Bajfaelle’s original design for the I 134 Route 8 .'— St. “School of Theology” in the Vati¬ can. It is in fact a careful chalk study or copy, done in the last cen¬ tury, from the left-hand lower por¬ tion of the fresco, of the same size as the original, and is well deserving of notice. The Billiard Room contains another head of Newton, by Kneller (1702). Henry Bennett, Earl of Ar¬ lington : Kneller. The Annuncia¬ tion, assigned to Albert Durer, but earlier. The Five Senses : School of Guercino, indifferent. Two heads which hang below are much better. In the Library is the 1st Earl of Portsmouth, in blue velvet, by Reynolds; also a very interest¬ ing portrait of Newton without his wig, by Sir James Thornhill. The portraits and pictures throughout the house are named, but how far accurately is, in some instances at least, questionable. Hurstbourne Priors takes its name from its wooded position on the little stream which joins the Test, and from its having belonged to the Priory of St. Swithun’s at Win¬ chester, to which it was granted by Edward the Elder. At the Refor¬ mation it passed to the Duke of Somerset: on his attainder, to Sir John Gates, who was executed for high treason in the Duke of Nor¬ thumberland’s rebellion; and subse¬ quently by sale to the Oxenbridges and(1631) to the Wallops; it has been the seat of that family since the reign of Charles II., before which time they resided at Far- leigh Wallop, near Basingstoke. The family of Wallop is of great antiquity, and in all probability de¬ scended from a Saxon thane who was lord of Upper Wallop (post) at the time of the Domesday survey. Its various representatives filled high offices, and were always con¬ spicuous in their native county. Sir John Wallop, admiral of an Euglish fleet in 1515, made distin¬ guished reprisals on the coast of Mary Bourne: Normandy, after the French had been burning and plundering on that of Sussex. His nephew, Sir Henry Wallop, was active in Ire¬ land, where he died, 1589. His grandson, Sir Robert Wallop, was one of the regicides, and on the Restoration he was degraded from his honours and sentenced to be im¬ prisoned for life. He sent more than one petition to the king, beg¬ ging him to take pity on him, now old and diseased, and to grant him to breathe the pure air before he died ; but his petitions were refused, and he died in the Tower, Nov. 16th, 1667. In 1720 his grandson Sir John Wallop was created Vis¬ count Lymington and Baron Wal¬ lop, and was made Earl of Ports¬ mouth by George II. in 1743. His great-grandson, the 4th Earl, as¬ sumed the name of Fellowes, on succeeding to the property of his maternal uncle. The little Norm, and E. E. Church of Hurstbourne Priors, outside the park, has a Norm, doorway; it has been restored. There is a fine tomb, with the effigies of Sir R. Oxenbridge (d. 1574) and his lady. At his funeral Sir Robert willed that “ 2 bullocks and 6 sheep should be killed, a quarter of wheat made into bread, and a tun of ale brewed and given to the poor of Whitchurch, Longparish, &c.” There is a large yew in the ch.-yd. 1| m. N. of Hurstbourne Stat. is St. Mary Bourne, where the Church , restored in 1855, with Trans.- Norm. pillars and arches, deserves notice. The square font, of black marble, is of the same type as those of Winchester, St. Michael’s, South¬ ampton, and East Meon. See Font, Winchester Cathedral (Rte. 6). In the Wyke aisle, S., is a military effigy of one of the Dandely family (c. 1280), “ in its perfect state no doubt a beau¬ tiful specimen of the art of the period. Its chief interest now Houte 8.— Andover. 135 arises from tlie arms represented on the surcoat, a circumstance which rarely occurs at so early a period.”— Blore. In the ch.-yd. is a yew 21 ft. in girth. At the farm¬ house at Wylie, 1 m. W., are some remains of the Manor-house of the Oxenbridges. 1| m. N.E., upon Egbury Hill, is a remarkable intrenchment of an irre¬ gular pentagonal form, which some archaeologists are inclined to regard as the ancient Vindomis , one of the principal towns of the Segontiaci, a theory not borne out by the dis¬ tances on the itineraries. The Roman road from Old Sarum to Sil- chester, called the Portway , crossed the St. Mary Bourne stream about 250 yards of the S. of the Cli., where there is still a ford. This road may be traced through Bradley Copse to Freemantle Park, N.E., and passing to the N. of Andover by Monkston, Amport (where is the Foss Farm), and Grately, to the S.W. At the foot of Finkley Hill, near East Anton (identified with Yindomis by Sir R. C. Hoare) it was crossed by the Roman road from Winchester to Cirencester. At Chapmansford, 1J m. further, the stream is crossed by the ancient Oxendrove, used from time imme¬ morial by drovers from the W. of England to London. It is well marked in places, and only one gate is said to occur on it between An¬ dover and London. The ancient roads of this quarter all point in the direction of Silchester (Rte. 7). 1^ m. N. of Hurstbourne Stat. is Hurstbonrne Tarrant (formerly con¬ nected with the Cistercian nunnery of Tarrant Crawford, near Bland- ford), where the Cli. has an E. E. arcade with circular piers and pointed arches, E. E. font, and a wooden tower. Traces of wall- paintings are still visible. The Rly. from Hurstbourne pro¬ ceeds through an open country of downs, of no great height, but, if the tourist will see witli Cobbett’s eyes, not without a beauty of their own. ‘ ‘ The homesteads in the sheltered bottoms, with fine lofty trees about the houses and yards, form a beauti¬ ful contrast with the large open fields. The little villages, running straggling along the dells (always with lofty trees and rookeries), are very interesting objects even in the winter ; you feel a sort of satisfaction when you are out upon the bleak hills yourself at the thought of the shelter which is experienced in the dwellings in the valleys .”—Rtiral Rides. 18f m., ANDOVER Junct. Stat. The Midland and South Western Junct. Rly. here falls in from Chel¬ tenham and Marlborough on the N.W., and is continued by the S.W. Rly. through Stockbridge and Rom- sey to Southampton (Rte. 10). This has a second Stat., called Andover Town , nearer to the town, in Bridge Street. Andover stands at the head of the canal, constructed in 1789 to join the Southampton Water at Red¬ bridge, which, after proving a most unprofitable speculation, has been converted into a Rly. Andover is the agricultural centre for N.W. Hampshire, and is cheerful, bright, and broad-wayed, but contains nothing to detain the tourist. The Church (St. Mary), rebuilt in 1818 at the liberal expense (30,000L) of the Rev. Dr. Goddard, headmaster of Winchester, long resident here, is of considerable size and importance, with a lofty tower serving as a land¬ mark for miles round. The design is for the most part E. E., but the noble gift was unhappily made too early in the revival of architecture, and the architect employed did little justice to it. It is thin and poor in effect; much of the walls actually fell during the building. 13(3 Route 8 .—AndoVeYi At the E. efld of the aisles are monuments from the old Ch.; in the S., Rd. Venables and wife (1622), and brass of Nicholas Venables (1602); in the N., Lady Ann Lawson (1611) married 3 times; her two deceased husbands behind her, and her 3rd, Rd. Kemis (or Kemish), seated, with her skull on his knees. An oil painting of the old Ch. is happily preserved in the vestry, from which it appears to have been a dignified E. E. Ch., with a mas¬ sive central tower, a triple lancet E. window, and plate-traceried nave- windows, but to have lost its tran¬ septs. A much-enriched late Norm, doorway, which belonged to the old church, now forms the S.W. en¬ trance to the ch.-yd. A fragment of ivied wall in the ch.-yd. is a portion of the Priory founded by William the Conqueror as a cell to the abbey of St. Florence, near Sau- mur, to which the Church of An¬ dover belonged until the dissolution of alien priories, under Henry V., when it was conferred on the Col¬ lege of Winchester. It is uncertain whether Andover represents any Roman town or stat., although it stands near the Roman load from Salisbury to Silchester, at a ford of the Ann, or Ande (And- overa). There is a small Museum , with some local antiquities, in Eridge Street. Andover was a royal manor and residence during the Saxon period, and was the scene of the oft-told tale of King Eadgar’s profligate tyranny, when the out¬ rage intended for a maiden of noble birth was diverted by her mother’s artifice to a slave, whom the monarch, on discovering the trick, made free, and set her as mistress over her former lady. More than one witen- agemot was held here. Here also, in 994, the Norse king, Olaf Trygg- vesson, who, with Swegen of Den¬ mark, had been wintering at South¬ ampton at the cost of the people of Wessex, was royally entertained by jEthelred, at whose instance he was baptized and received confirmation, at the hands of iElfheali (St. Alphege) then Bp. of Winchester, and promised never again to visit England as an enemy. Andover was burnt in 1141 in the struggle between Stephen and Matilda. Henry VII. visited Andover on his return from the suppression of Perkin Warbeck’s rebellion. The Royalists drove out the Parlia¬ mentary troops from Andover in the Civil War. Here James II., lingering on his return from Salis¬ bury after the landing of William of Orange, was deserted by his son-in-law Prince George of Den¬ mark. The town, though now merged into a division of the county, occupies a notorious place in the electioneering annals of the last century. The races of the Bibury Club, of sporting notoriety, have been transferred to Stockbridge. The Anton river flows from the chalk hills N.W. of the town, and falls into the Test at Testcombo below Wherwell. The valley is prettily wooded, and contrasts strik¬ ingly with the bare downs rising above it. A few minutes’ walk from the centre of the town, is the Ladies’ Walk, a wide green terrace planted with trees, and commanding a wide sweep of country. It was bequeathed to the town by Catherine Anson, 1570. On the high ground, 1 m. S.W., is Balksbury (or Folksbury ), a large square, well-defined intrenchment, probably formed for the sake of securing the passage of the morass between it and Bury Hill opposite. The town and valley are well seen from *Bury Hill, about \ m. Route 8 .-^-Abbot's Ann. 137 further, which is crested with an ancient camp of unusual size and importance. The form is nearly circular, with an entrance at the S. side. Remark the great depth of the fosse, and the sharp cutting of the work, almost like an escarpment of Vauban’s. A wide view is com¬ manded N. toward the borders of Berks and Wilts; N.E. rise the camp-crested hills about Highclere, Egbury, and Beacon Hill; due W. is seen the remarkable intrenchment on Quarley Hill; and S. (marked by a clump of firs) is the great camp of Danebury. From this spot, but still better perhaps from Quarley Hill (post), the tourist overlooks a range of wild border country which must have been the scene of many fierce struggles as each successive wave of invasion broke upon the southern coast. The steep conical chalk hills afforded admirable sites for a long chain of fortresses, which became places of refuge for both invaders and invaded. Like other camps in this neighbourhood, Bury Hill is probably of British origin, though adapted by the Romans. The archaeologist will also find distinct vestiges of an ancient boun¬ dary to the E. of Andover called the Devil’s Dyke, which seems to have partly defended the heights between the Anton and the Test. (The greater part of this line was, however, covered by the thick woods of Harewood and Doles; the Devil’s Dyke closing in the open space of downland between.) The Dyke is best seen at a railway cutting about 2 m. E. of the town, close under Tinker Hill, which it ascends from the railway. From the section ex¬ posed at the cutting it appears that the ditch was about 8 ft. below the surface of the ground, and the ram¬ parts the same above it. The ditch is on the W., toward which quarter are all the openings. About half¬ way up Tinker Hill the Dyke sud¬ denly turns with a sharp angle, well preserved. A mound through which the dyke runs is called Canute's Grove. Under Bury Hill, W., lies Abbot’s Ann, the Ch. of which formerly belonged to Hyde Abbey, and other portions of the manor to the Abbey of Wherwell. The name has no doubt given birth to sundry monas¬ tic pleasantries; but the Ann here loved of abbots was the clear stream of the Ann, or Anton, with the rich green meadows that fringe its mar¬ gin. The present brick Ch. was built in 1716 in the debased classic style by Governor (or “ Diamond ”) Pitt, the ancestor of the great Lord Chatham and his still greater son, adjoining what was then the family residence. It is one of the churches in which paper gloves are hung on the arches at the funeral of a maiden, and some are still to be seen. At Knight’s Enham, 2 m. N. of Andover, was an ancient residence of the kings of Wessex, from which a collection of laws was promul¬ gated at some uncertain period during the reign of JEthelred the Unredy. The Ch. of Knight’s Enham is E. E., with an arch in the S. wall, which perhaps shows it to have been originally larger. In the E. end are 3 small lancets, that in the centre trefoil-headed ; all so low in the wall, that probably a circular window is built up above. The Norm, font, circular, with leaf¬ like ornaments at the sides, should be noticed. Eoxcott Ch. was rebuilt in 1855, and is of no interest. Tangley Ch., further on, near the border of Wilts, is also of little interest, but has a Perp. lead font. Weyhill, 3 m. from Andover, has a Stat. of its own (the only one in Hants. N. of Andover) on the 138 Route 8.— Thruxton. Midi, and S. W. Junct. Ely. from Southampton to Cheltenham. It is famous for its ancient six days’ fair (now four days), beginning on old Michaelmas Eve (Oct. 10), which was to the agriculturists and the West Country clothiers what the great fair of St. Giles at Winchester was to the general merchant. Part of the village stands on high ground, commanding wide views; and at its W. end, sheltered by large beech- trees, are a number of low slated buildings, for the use of the traders who attended the fair. The scene has something peculiar and un- English, and, although completely without visible relics of antiquity, carries back the imagination to an early stage of commerce. The period at which the fair began to rise into importance is uncertain, though it was probably one of the earliest. A line in 4 The Vision of Piers Plough¬ man ’ (c. I860), “ To Wy and Wynchestre I went to the fayre,” alludes probably to this fair. It must have been famous long before the reign of Elizabeth, by whom, in 1599, a charter was granted to the corporation of An¬ dover, conferring on them the right of holding it amongst other things, which was the cause of litigation for a century afterwards, and has been of no advantage to Andover. Horses, sheep, cheese, and hops are the principal things brought here for sale. As many as 150,000 sheep once changed hands in one day, now perhaps 15,000; and the hop fair (though much decreased) is still of great importance. The “ Farnham Row ” is reserved ex¬ pressly for the hops from that place, reputed the best in England. The 2nd day of the fair (old Michael- mas-day) is the great hiring day for farm servants and labourers in this part of Hampshire and the adjoining districts of Wilts; the carters appear with a piece of plaited whipcord fastened in their hats, the shepherds with a lock of wool. The parish of Weyhill is properly called Penton Grafton, a corruption of Grestein , the Norm, abbey to which the manor belonged. The Ch., mostly E. E., has been well restored. A monument by West- macott to one of the Gawler family of Ramridge deserves notice. Ram- ridge House (Col. Harmer) occupies the site of an ancient manor-house belonging to William de la Pole, Earl of Suffolk. The Cb. of Penton Mewsey, about 1 m. N.E., has been restored. At the W. end is a very good bell-turret, and it has an ancient font. At Appleshaw, 1J m. N. of Wey¬ hill (where the Ch. built in 1836, is of no interest), a remarkable find of between 30 and 40 Romano-British pewter vessels, dishes, bowls, cups, &c., was made in 1897 by the Rev. G. H. Engleheart, while trenching the supposed site of a Roman villa. Thruxton has the most interest¬ ing Ch. in the Andover neighbour¬ hood, and is only 1 m. W. from Weyhill Stat. It is mostly early Dec. with Perp. additions, but has a Trans.-Norm. tower-arch. There is a pillar piscina in the chancel. The monuments here, however, are more interesting than the Ch. itself. On the S. side of the chancel is the much-worn effigy of a knight, said to be Sir John de Cormaillies, temp. Rich. I., with a large shield on his breast. Opposite, on a Perp. altar-tomb, which is perhaps of later date than the figures themselves, are the, effigies of a knight and lady, c. 1450, probably of the Lisle family, and deserving of all atten¬ tion. The knight wears a collar of SS, from which is suspended 139 jRoute 8 .— Grately. (very unusually) a Latin cross. In spite of the armorial bearings on the surcoat, these effigies do not seem to have been satisfactorily appro¬ priated. On the floor, and gene¬ rally covered with matting, is the very fine brass of Sir John Lisle, lord of the manor of Wootton, in the Isle of Wight (d. 1407), but the brass is probably c. 1425. This is an early example of complete plate armour ( Haines , Mon. Brasses, p. 189). In 1823 a beautiful Mosaic pave¬ ment was discovered on the Thruxton Estate (at that time the property of the late Harry Noyes, Esq.). The pavement measured 16 ft. square. In the centre was a figure of Bac¬ chus riding on a panther, and an inscription on the upper part con¬ taining the words “ Quintus Natalius Natalinus et Bodeni ”; the letters Y. and O. being all that was trace¬ able in a lower line. The pavement belonged to a banqueting-room; and judging from the character of its design, and the dates of the coins found here, the villa must have been built between a.d. 260 and 340. It lay a short distance off the Roman road from Silchester to Salisbury, and was readily shown by the late owner: after some years, with a view to preserving it, it was covered up, and a mound erected over it, but since the land has passed from the late owners the site has fallen into neglect and, it is believed, has been ploughed over. For an excellent engraving of the pavement, see ‘ Proc. of the Archmol. Institute,’ Salisbury vol. Human remains, Roman coins, and other interesting relics were also discovered, many of which are still in the possession of the Noyes family. From Thruxton the pedestrian may pass by a field-path to Amport (or Amport St. Mary), which derives its name from the river Ann or Little Ann, If m. S.E. The Cli. is for the most part late Dec., with a central tower, the arches supporting which deserve attention. Remark the flamboyant tracery of the chancel side windows. The nave was re¬ built in 1857-8. It has Dec. sedilia and piscina. There are no monu¬ ments; but the 3 swords in pile and the “Aimez Loyaute” of the Paulets appear on hatchments hung round the walls. Amport House (Marquis of Win¬ chester), rebuilt after Elizabethan designs by Wm. Burn, 1857, stands in a pleasant, undulating park, much dotted with single trees. Amport, anciently Anam-le-port (so named from the great Norm, house of De Port, the common ancestors of the St. Johns and Paulets), has been in the hands of a branch of the latter family from a very early period. George Paulet of Amport succeeded to the Marquisate in 1794. Fyfield Ch., 1 m. N.W. from Wey- hill Stat., is of little interest. Kimpton Ch., 1 m. further, is cruci¬ form, and had altars in the transepts. It has, on the chancel wall, a brass of Robert Thornburgh with kneeling effigies, 1522, and several monu¬ ments of the Foyle family. Monkston Ch., If m. S.W. of Weyhill Stat., was rebuilt in 1857. It has two brasses; Alice Swayne, mt. 98, and daughter, 1599, and Richard Pore, 1660. After 2 m, the Midland and S.W. Junct. Rly. branches off rt., and then the line passes between the villages of Monkston and Abbot’s Ann. The line beyond Andover Junct. then passes through a country of open downs, with very little beyond their broad expanse in sight. 25 m., Grately Stat. Grately, 140 • Boute 8 .— immediately S. of the great Roman road from Old Sarum to Silchester, was a place of some importance during the Saxon period. A wite- nagemot was held here under iEtliel- stan. There is a tradition that Grately possessed 5 churches at that time. It is now a small vil¬ lage with an E. E. Ch., restored, and containing some very fine frag¬ ments of E. E. stained glass, re¬ moved here from Salisbury Cathe¬ dral at the time of its dreadful “restoration” by Wyatt. They con¬ sist of ornamental borders and scroll- work, a fragment of a medallion representing the Annunciation, and a very fine circular medallion (complete) with the Martyrdom of St. Stephen. The saint’s head is painted on a piece of light ruby glass, the usual mode of indicating the effect of wounds. Remark the countenances of the men at his back, both decidedly Jewish. Below is an inscription in Lombardic cha¬ racters, “ Stephanus orans expirat.” The date of this glass is the first half of the 12th cent., the same as that of the Jesse in the W. window of Salisbury Cathedral ( Winston). There is also the stand of an hour¬ glass to the pulpit. Both the bells are dated 1583. If m. N. of Grately is Quarley, with an ancient Cli., restored in 1882, which has Norm, and E. E. portions, and several monuments of the Cox family, of Crays Court. A short distance S.W. is Quarley Mount, crowned by one of the largest intrenchments on the Hampshire border. The form is irregular; and the vallum is double on the S. side. The main entrance is from the N. Remark traces of what seem to be hollow ways ascending the hill from Grately, and also on the N. side. Much of the area of the camp has been planted with beech. It is seen over half the county, and the view from it is worth seeking by the ■Quarley. tourist. A great extent of Hampshire and Wiltshire is visible. The view is finest toward the N.E., where it extends over a broad rich country, with patches of wood and corn- lands, sweeping away toward the foot of the distant chalk hills. Below, scattered villages and church- towers, and the peaked roofs of solitary farms, rise from the midst of their encircling trees—remains of the forest that once covered all this part of Hampshire. Amport woods and park are spread out beyond Grately. Toward the S. the view is barer, extending over the chalk hills on the borders of Wilts. The long ridge of Danebury, near Stock- bridge, the training-ground so well known to the sporting world, with dark firs marking the position of the camp on its summit, is here conspicuous. Shipton Bellinger Ch., 4 m. N.W. of Grately Stat., restored by Withers, is E. E., and has a very remarkable stone chancel-screen. The tract of open country with its curiously formed hills, stretching away S. from the Quarley Mount, is known as the “Wallop Fields,” a name in which Dr. Guest is disposed to recognise the “Gualoppum” of Nennius, the scene of one of the last battles of Vortigern with the invading Saxons. Over Wallop Ch., 2J m. S. of Grately Stat., has been entirely rebuilt, the nave in 1875, the chancel in 18G6. Nether Wallop Ch., H m. further, is interesting. It was a cruciform Norm. Ch., with central tower, altered in the 15th cent. The present W. tower was built in 1702. On the floor of the nave are a brass with Latin inscrip¬ tion, and an incised slab of a prioress, Maria Gose (1436). On the E. wall of the N. aisle are two canopied niches and a squint. A slab in the N. aisle of a Bp. or mitred abbot has lost its brass. The manor once Route 9 .—South Ted worth. 141 belonged to the famous Godgifu (Godiva). Cromwell was at Wallop two days after the taking of Basing House, on his way to Langford, near Salisbury, and despatched a letter thence to Fairfax, Oct. 1(1, 1645. A trout stream named the “ Wallop,” from the village in which it rises, empties itself into the Test at Bossington. The famous train¬ ing-stables at Danebury (Rte. 10) are in this parish. A flock of 25 bustards, probably the greatest number last seen together in England, was encoun¬ tered on the Wallop Downs by Mr. Chafin, author of the curious ‘ Anecdotes of Cranbourne Chase,’ toward the beginning of the century. The bustard formerly roamed in Hocks over all the chalk downs of the IS. of England, and was hunted with dogs; now it is totally extinct as a British bird, the last having been seen in 1880. (See Hart's Museum , Christchurch, Rte. 13.) 5 J m. N. of Grately Stat., and m. from Ludgershall Stat. (Wilts), on the line from Andover to Chelten¬ ham, is South Tedworth (or Tid- worth). A handsome Ch. with a spire has been built in the park by Sir John Kelk, and the small old Ch. has been made a mortuary chapel. Tedworth House (Sir J. W. Kelk) was rebuilt by the late Thomas Asslieton Smith, whose name is still great in hunting annals, and has been celebrated by “Nimrod.” Throughout the house (as also in the neighbouring model villages of North and South Ted¬ worth) slate from Mr. Smith’s Llan- beris quarries has been used when¬ ever it was practicable. The whole of the adjacent dis¬ trict teems with memories of this veteran of the chase, whose “ iron will and undeviating purpose” me¬ tamorphosed the formerly intract¬ able woodland country about Ted¬ worth—“nothing,” writes Nimrod, “ but beds of Hint, and dense and ungovernable tracts of woodland ”— into rideable fox - coverts. The farmers, we are told, “ began to preserve foxes as if they were pigs.” -—Life of T. A. Smith. The line beyond Grately passes through Hampshire Gap, a depres¬ sion in the hills, and enters Wilts. Near the border is Cholderton Lodge (H. C. Stephens, Esq., M.P.). 30| m., Porton Stat. Amesbury, of Arthurian legend, is about 4 m. N., and Stonehenge 2 m. beyond. Before reaching Salisbury there is a good view of the Cathedral on 1. 35f m., SALISBURY Stat. {see H. Bit. for Wiltshire). ROUTE 9. D!DCOT, BY NEWBURY AND BURGHCLERE, TO WINCHESTER. (DIDCOT, NEWBURY, AND SOUTH¬ AMPTON ELY.) This line, which is about 46 m. in length from Didcot to the junction with the L. & S. W. Rly. below St. Cross, is worked by the G. W. Rly. To the county explorer, both in Berks and Hants, this line is of con¬ siderable value, as opening up parts of both counties which before were ill-served by Rly. Through carriages are run from Didcot to South¬ ampton Docks, and a connexion is made with trains from Paddington at Newbury. 142 Route 9 .— Newbury. DIDCOT Janet. Stat., on the G. W. Ely. Main Line. The line thence cuts across the Berkshire chalk downs by the Stats, of Upton, Compton , Hampstead Norris, and Hermitage. to (17i m.) NEWBURY, where it effects a junction with the line by Devizes to Weymouth, which is also to be made the direct line of the G. W. Ely. from London to Exeter. For these places, see H.Bk. Berks. The line enters Hants just at 21J m. (from Didcot), Woodhay Stat. 1 m. W. of the Stat. is the modern Ch. and parish ofWoolton Hill. The Church of the large parish of East Woodhay, from which the Stat. takes its vague name, is 2J m. S.W. It is modern, but has a monument with standing effigies of Edward and Elizabeth Goddard, of Stargroves, 1724. The living, being one of the most valuable in the gift of the Bishops of Winchester, who formerly had a country-house here, has been held by a distinguished line of rectors, including the famous Ken, Hooper, of Bath and Wells, and Lowth, the learned Bishop of Oxford and London. The Goddard family, of Stargroves (now occupied by Col. Sir F. W. Carden), left a curious bequest to the Eectory, viz., a basin used by Cromwell when staying at Stargroves after the second battle of Newbury, 1644. In this parish are the springs of the Enbourne, which helps to form the Kennet, and is here the boun¬ dary between Hants and Berks ; and among the waves of down, N., is Inkpen Beacon (Berks), the highest point of the chalk downs in England (954 ft.). Below Inkpen Beacon, on the S. side, is the little Ch. of Combe (in Hants), which was attached to the Priory of Oakburn, a cell of Bee in Normandy, and was granted by Henry VI. to King’s College, Cambridge. Walbury Camp , on the chalk down above, the largest British earthwork of the county, is half in Berks. It measures no less than 2347 ft. by 1650 ft., and was one of the principal camps of refuge. It contains several dew- ponds. The Ch. of Newtown, about 2 m. from either Woodhay or Newbury, rebuilt in 1865, is only noticeable as the single Ch. occur¬ ring for 12 m. along the course of the Enbourne, a contrast to the banks of the Test and Itchen which are so thickly studded with churches; “ one proof, among many others, of the wild character retained by this district to a very late period ” (Moody). Across the bridge, to¬ wards Newbury, is Sandleford Friory (in Berkshire), a house of Augusti- nian Canons founded by Geoffrey, Earl of Perche, about 1200, and celebrated in the 18th cent, for the “ blue-stocking ” gatherings of Mrs. Montagu, who resided here (see H.Bk. Berks). 23J m., Highclere Stat. Highclere Castle is about equi¬ distant (2 m.) from this and from the next Stat., Burghclere. The way from Highclere is much the pleasanter, since it is nearly all through the Park. The tourist may find it convenient to use one Stat. for going and the other for returning. ^Highclere, the beautiful and celebrated domain of the Earl of Carnarvon, is one of the largest and finest parks in the south of England, being no less than 13 m. in circum¬ ference. It is a beautiful place at all times of the year, but is, perhaps, most striking in June, when the rho¬ dodendrons, which here are of unusual size, are in perfection. A very fine variety ( B. altaclerense) is named 143 j Route 9 .— Highclere. from this place, where it was raised. The cedars of Lebanon-also, mostly- sprung from those at Wilton, are numerous and picturesque. Two of them spring from a cone brought direct from Lebanon by It. Pococke, Bishop of Meath, who was grandson of Isaac Milles, Rector of Highclere, and a friend of Ken while he was a neighbour at East Woodhay (ante). The principal points of view in and about the Park are— Siddown Sill , at the S. end, nearer to Burghclere (see post), the highest point of Hampshire (872 ft.), which is covered by luxuriant woods, through which drives are cut to the summit; Tent Hill on the N. side, with a view towards Siddown; the two lakes, Milford Water and Dims Mere, embosomed in forest and their banks clothed with exotic vegeta¬ tion ; Clere Brow, with a westward view; and Penivood, the N. part of the Park, a wide tract of oaks and hollies. The Castle, which name was adopted by the 3rd Earl, when the mansion was altered in the Jacobean style, after the designs of Sir Charles Barry, —stands on a bold eminence 587 ft. above the sea-level. The interior is approached by an en¬ trance-hall paved and adorned with various coloured marbles, after the designs of Butterfield. The inner and larger hall, lighted by a roof of glass, is hung with old stamped- leather hangings. The rooms con¬ tain 6 pictures by Sir Joshua Bey- nolds, 5 of them portraits of members and friends of the Herbert and Acland families; two by Gains¬ borough, a portrait of the first Earl, and the celebrated Wood-gatherers ; 8 family pieces by Beechey, including one of his happiest works, a portrait of the first Earl; 2 by Kneller, one being Margaret Sawyer, Countess of Pembroke ; Philip Earl of Pem¬ broke, and his daughter the Coun¬ tess of Carnarvon, both by Vandyclc; some admirable copies of Vandyck by Brompton; a large equestrian figure of Charles I., attended by M. de St. Antoine, and also 2 children of Charles I., both works by Stone ; a reduced copy of Vandyck’s Wilton Family Group; Dead Swan and Peacock, by Weenix; 3 views of Venice by Canaletto; and many specimens of the English and Fo¬ reign Schools. There are a few busts of English statesmen, and a beautiful marble group of the present Earl, and his sister the Countess of Portsmouth, when children, sculp¬ tured by Tenerani at Rome in 1839. Plighclere was one of the many rural residences of the Bishops of Winchester. Here, on one occasion, William of Wykeham spent nearly four months, and on 17th February, 1397, delivered the pall to Roger Walden, the new Abp. of Canterbury. In the reign of Edward VI. the manor was resigned by Bp. Poynet to the king, who granted it, with Burghclere, to the Fitzwilliams; from them it passed through the Kingsmills and the Lucys of War¬ wickshire, until, by purchase from the latter, it became the property of Sir Robert Sawyer, Attorney- General to Charles II. and James II., honourably remembered for his defence of the seven bishops. His only child married Thomas Earl of Pembroke, Lord High Admiral of England, and their second son, the Hon. Robert Sawyer Herbert, in¬ herited Highclere and Burghclere. On his death without issue the estates passed to his nephew, who afterwards became the first Earl of Carnarvon. The Church, near the mansion, rebuilt by Sir R. Sawyer in 1688, contained a few monuments of in¬ terest, but had no architectural beauty. It has now been replaced by a very handsome E. E. structure built by the Earl of Carnarvon in 1870, from the designs of Sir G. G. Scott, outside the park, on a site 144 Boute 9 .—Bur glider e. nearer tlic village; it contains the monuments from the old Oh.; fine memorial windows for Mr. E. 0. Herbert, who was murdered by brigands in Greece, 1870, and the late Countess of Carnarvon ; and a beautiful reredos with copies by Fairfax Murray, from paintings of Era Angelico. At a short distance from the old Ch. in the park, and attached to the parish burial-ground, is a mortuary chapel, built at the cost of Henrietta, Countess Dowager of Carnarvon, after the designs of Mr. Allom. It contains an elegant mural brass to the memory of James Eobert Gowen, Esq., who did much, as an amateur, to promote the cultivation of rhodo¬ dendrons and azaleas, and to intro¬ duce new trees and plants in the Highclere domain. At the W. end of the chapel is the very handsome tomb of the first wife of the present Earl (d. 1875); it is of red granite, surmounted by a cross of white Sicilian marble. The olcl parish Ch. of Burgh- clere (All Saints) is a short dis¬ tance E. of Highclere Stat. It was disused for many years, but restored in 1861. It has fairly good windows and W. doorway. The Earls are buried in the Car¬ narvon vault here. Dean Field of Gloucester (d. 1616), the friend of Hooker, was also Eector of Burgh- clere, and chiefly resided here. 25J m., Burghclere Stat. The Church of the Ascension, close by, was built in 1838. The E. lodge of Highclere is about 1J m. distant. Near this Stat. are the two fine rival chalk Hills, Siddoivn Hill (870 ft.), in Highclere Park, the highest point of Hants, and Beacon Hill (800 ft.), nearer to the road and Ely. These hills are conspicuous from many points, especially from the Salisbury Ely. about Whit¬ church, and are in singular contrast to each other, Siddown being wooded to the very summit, while Beacon Hill is a bare down. Both command magnificent views, over Berkshire into Oxfordshire, and over Hampshire to the Isle of Wight. On the summit of Beacon Hill is one of the numerous intrenchments which attract the attention of the tourist throughout this part of Hampshire. The form is irregular, with a very deep trench ; some cir¬ cular elevations within the area have been called the foundations of huts, and are said to be pitched with flints. There are many tumuli on the neighbouring downs; and on Ladle Hill across the Ely. (1J m. E. of Beacon Hill) is a circular camp, inclosing an area of about 8 acres. This wild corner of Hampshire seems to have served as a march or frontier to many different tribes, at different periods—to the Belgic Britons, the Brito-Eomans, and the Saxons ; hence the number of strong¬ holds, the original constructors of which it would be difficult to ascer¬ tain, though they were probably occupied by each new-comer in turn. The little town of Kingsclere lies 4 m. E. from Burghclere Stat.,~or 5^ m. N. from Overtoil (Ete. 8). On the road from Burghclere (1 m.) is the Ch. of Sydmonton, formerly belonging to Eomsey Abbey, which was rebuilt in 1865, in flint with stone dressings, but retains its Norm. S. doorway and tower-arch. The living is united with that of Ecchinswell (the oak’s well), 1£ m. N., which has a good modern Ch. by Bodley and Garner, with a handsome lich-gate and chancel screen. Kingsclere, small as it is, is the largest of the three “ Cleres ” dis¬ tinctive of this district. The name = conspicuous, and is applied to im¬ portant royal or episcopal manors 145 Haute 9 .-— Litchfield. {Isaac. Taylor, Words and Places , pp. 126,333). The royal manor here was given by Henry I. to the Cathedral of Bouen, but given up to the Abp. of York in 1337. The town is on the N.E. edge of a valley, about 5 m. long by 2 m. broad, which is a miniature “Weald,” between two steep escarp¬ ments of the chalk, and is of con¬ siderable interest to a geologist. The bed of the valley, which is traversed from E. to W. by an anti¬ clinal axis, prolonged eastward beyond it, is formed of the upper greensand. Causes such as pro¬ duced the denudation of the Weald have no doubt been in operation here (see Lyell , iv. ch. 22). Charles I. lay at Kingsclere before the battle of Newbury, Oct. 21, 1644 ; the troops were at Newtown {ante). The *Church , which belonged first to Hyde Abbey, and afterwards to Bisham Priory, near Marlow, is a cruciform Norm, building with a stately central tower, on four arches, with enriched mouldings, and a long chancel of Trans, character. The Kingsmill Chapel, S. of the chancel, is Dec., and contains a monument of Sir Henry and Dame Bridget Kingsmill, of Sydmonton, 1670; a tablet to Dr. Edward Webbe, chap¬ lain to Charles If.; and several late Brasses; Win. Estwode, Vicar of Newnham, 1519 ; Ellen Goband (?), 1520; Elizabeth Hunt, 1606; and a long inscription to Sir — Kingsmill. a m. S. of the town are the well- known Parle House Pacing Stables , which have made the town famous in the annals of the Turf. Near it was the Park of Freemantle , now destroyed, a favourite hunting-lodge of the Plantagenet kings, at which John often resided, and which con¬ tinued a royal demesne till the reign of Elizabeth. In Domesday, “ Edwin the huntsman held two hides of the demesne in Clare, which the king gave him.” The lllartts .] Patent Bolls, May 31, 1212, record a gift of 5s. to the groom of Master Ernald de Auckland, for a wolf caught by his master’s dogs at Freemantle. The gift proves at once the rarity of the animal, and the wild character of the district about Kingsclere, the greater part of which was still covered by forest. The remote N.W. part of Hants can be reached from Burghclere Stat., or from Andover, but has not much of interest to offer. Crux Easton, 3| m. W. of Burgh¬ clere Stat., is so named from Croc the hunter (Croch venator), who pos¬ sessed it at the time of the Domes¬ day survey. It is now the property of Lord Carnarvon, whose park it adjoins. The Ch. was rebuilt in 1775. At Crux Easton Manor House lived Mr. Lisle, the friend of Pope, who often stayed here, and wrote some lines for the grotto of his nine literary daughters. Woodcot Ch., 1§ m. S. of it, was rebuilt in 1704, and has since been restored. Ashmansworth, 1| m. W. of Crux Easton, has a small Ch. originally Norm. Faccombe Ch., still farther W., is modern. The old Ch., which was at Netherton, 1 m. beyond, was demolished. Beyond it, and still further from any means of approach, is Linkenholt, where also the Ch. is modern, but retains a Norm, doorway and the font from the old Ch. Vernhams Dean, on the Wiltshire border, has also had its Ch. rebuilt. 28 m., Litchfield Stat. The name of this place should be, like that of the Staffordshire city, Lichfield, the field of corpses, from a traditional great battle of the Saxon period. It has an ancient Ch. with considerable Norm, remaii s, restored by Woodyer, 1871. There are 146 Boute 9 .—Sutton Scotney . numerous tumuli on the surrounding downs. The line then crosses the S. W. Ely. to Salisbury close to its Whitchurch Stat., but has a Stat. of its own nearer to the town, nearly 1 m. from the other. 32 m., Whitchurch Stat. For Whitchurch, see Rte. 8. The line from Whitchurch follows awhile the course of the Test, and passes close by Tufton Church (Ete. 8). 3 m. beyond, on 1., is a camp, called Tidhury Ring , where many coins have been found. 37J m., Sutton Scotney Stat. Sutton Scotney is only a hamlet of the smaller village of Wonston (formerly Wonsington), 1 m. E., where the Ch. is old, but was unhappily “restored” too early, in 1829. N. of it is the small Ch. of Hunton, a chapelry annexed to Crawley (Ete. 6). § m. E. of Wonston is the small but interesting Ch. of *Stoke Charity (named from Henry de la Charite, who held it in the 13tli cent.), where the monu¬ ments are of some importance. The Ch., originally Norm., is of flint, and has a low shingled spire. Under a recess in the S. wall of the nave is the tomb with a Brass of Thomas Wayte, 1482, over which is a repre¬ sentation of the Resurrection. Under the E. bay is a Perp. tomb, supposed to be of John de Hampton, and a smaller one close by it. N. of the chancel is the Hampton Chantry, and between it and the chancel a large tomb with shields, and brass effigies on the slab, of Thomas Hampton, Isabella his wife (upper part lost), and eight children, with the Holy Trinity above. In the floor of the chapel is an inscription, with two shields, being all that remains of the Brass of Richard Waller, 1552. Against the N. wall of the chapel is a very fine tomb, with a reredos crested by Tudor flowers, and having an elegant canopied niche in the eastern up¬ right. On the frieze is an inscrip¬ tion to John Waller and Johanna his wife, 1527. This tomb may have served for the Easter Sepulchre. In the chapel is a Jacobean altar- tomb of Sir Thomas Phelipps, 1st Bart., who married the Waller heiress, and several later monuments of this family. In 1849 a very in¬ teresting piece of sculpture (c. 1500) was discovered walled up for con¬ cealment. It represents the legend of our Lord’s appearance to Gregory the Great while celebrating mass. About J m. N. is a circular in¬ trenched camp, known as Norsbury Ring. At Weston Farm beyond it swords and spearheads have been found, marking the site of some battle in ancient times. On the other side of Sutton Scotney Stat., Bullington Ch., 1J m. N.W., is a small building, originally Norm.; and Barton Stacey Ch. is an interesting cruciform E. E. building, with early Perp. screen-work and tower. The coping of the ch.-yd. wall is original. About 3 m. before Winchester the line passes in a deep cutting under the S. W. Ely. (Ete. 6), just at the point where tiie line by Alton and Aldershot (Rte. 5) forms a junction, and passing close to Kings- ivorthy Church (Excursions from Winchester ) reaches at 44| m., WINCHESTER (St. Giles Hill Stat.). This Stat. is on the E. side of the city, about a mile from the S. W. Stat. For Winchester, see Ete. 6. The line from Winchester to Southampton by this route was opened in 1891, and is merely a short junction line, in place of the more ambitious competing route J Route 10. originally intended. It passes close under St. Catharine’s Hill, ]., and affords a fine view of the noble Ch. and Hospital of St. Cross from the E.: shortly after which it joins the S. W. line, a little before reaching at 47 1 m., Shawford and Twyford Stat. For the rest of the route to 57 m., SOUTHAMPTON DOCKS Stat., see Rte. G. ROUTE 10. ANDOVER (OR HURSTBOURNE) TO SOUTHAMPTON, BY STOCK- BRIDGE. (S. W. ELY. 28 m.) For Andover Junct. see Rte. 8. The Rly., which has superseded the Andover Canal, and for the most part is constructed on its bed, follows very nearly the line of the Anton River as far as Fullerton, and thence accompanies the united streams of the Anton and Test to Redbridge, at the head of the South¬ ampton Water. The archaeologist may make a pleasant round from Andover, visiting the churches of the Clatfords, Chilbolton, and Long- parish, returning to Andover from Hurstbourne Stat. § m., Andover Town Stat., on the W. side of the town; the Junction Stat. is on the N. side. The Rly. then passes under Balhsbury Camp — Clatford. 147 (see Andover) and by Upper Clat¬ ford Church (post) to 2f m., Clatford Stat. Near it, on 1., is the Ch. of Goodworth Clatford. The S. arcade of the nave has 4 sharply pointed arches on Trans.- Norm, piers with large caps moulded in chalk, one of which has tooth ornament; the S. arcade of 8 bays is E. E., and one capital is carved with heads. The chancel is also E. E. The font has a square black Trans.-Norm, bowl with arcading. The registers of the Ch. begin as early as 1538. 1 m. S.W. is Red llice House (H. A. Simonds, Esq.). The ave¬ nues of beeches were planted by a former owner, General Webb, one of Marlborough’s veterans, in com¬ memoration of the battle of Mal- plaquet. The drawing-room of this house is one of the reputed localities of the marriage of the Prince of Wales and Mrs. Fitzherbert, whose uncle, Mr. Errington, was then its owner. (See Brambridge House; Twyford, Rte. 6.) The marriage really took place in her drawing¬ room at Marble Hill, Twickenham. f m. N. (2 m. from Andover) is the curious Ch. of Upper Clat¬ ford, restored 1890, by Cotts, which the archaeologist should visit. The nave is (most unusually) sepa¬ rated from the chancel by tivo arches slightly pointed, resting on a massive circular pier in the centre, which has chain moulding round the abacus. Above them is a solid mass of wall. This work is apparently Trans.-Norm. ; but the windows and arrangements of the chancel beyond have been so altered that it is impossible to tell their original state. There are two plain round-headed doors to the nave, one of which is blocked, and the shell of the tower is probably Norm, also. The font is remarkable from l 2 148 Route 10. Wherwell. its date, 1629. The manor of Upper Clatford belonged to the king at the time of the Domesday survey. 5§ m., Fullerton Junct. Stat. Fullerton is a hamlet of Wher¬ well. [A loop line, opened in 1886, here falls in from Hurstbourne (Rte. 8), and shortens the journey from the Basingstoke direction. 4 m. (from Hurstbourne), Long- parish Stat. The Ch. is mainly Trans.-Norm, or E. E., with early Dec. windows and late Perp. tower. It has a Jacobean monument, and a good modern roof, and has been handsomely restored. Van Dyke, 1J m. S.E., is a bold entrenchment on the crest of the hill over Drayton Parle (Kirkman D. Hodgson, Esq.). 6£ m., Wherwell Stat. The valley of Wherwell, richly wooded, opens very strikingly from the bare fields on the hill-side above. At Wherwell Aflfthryth (El- frida), the widow of King Edgar, founded a Benedictine nunnery, of which she became herself the first abbess, in expiation of her two murders—that of her first husband /Ethelwold, killed at her instigation by Edgar, and that of her step-son Edward the Martyr, stabbed in her presence at the gate of Corfe Castle. Elfrida, who was buried at Wher¬ well, is also the reputed foundress of the abbey of Amesbury in Wilt¬ shire. It was to this abbey that Edith, wife of Edward the Confessor, was sent by her husband, and there committed to the custody of the abbess, his sister. The revenue of Wherwell Abbey at the Dissolution was 339Z. It was granted to the first Lord Delaware. The present house of Wherwell Priory (Admiral the Hon. Y. A. Montagu, B.N.) is entirely modern, with the exception of the cellars, which are the vaults of the old buildings. There is a small park, through which the Test in two or more streams sparkles plea¬ santly. The Church of Wherwell was rebuilt in 1858 : it contains several memorial windows, chiefly for the Iremonger family. Some figures found in digging the foun¬ dation of the Ch. are now in the Ch.-yd., as also a tomb of 1551, and a mausoleum of the Iremongers, built out of materials from the old Ch. Extending over the hills N. be¬ tween Wherwell and Andover are the remains of the old Forest of Harewood, a tract of open copses and intersecting green roads, among which the pedestrian may easily lose his way. In this wood, and in others about Andover, the beautiful Daphne mezereon grows wild, and may be tracked in the early spring by the powerful scent of its blossoms. In an open glade of Harewood Forest, on the side toward Andover, at a place called Dead Man's Placle, a short obelisk has been erected with an inscription that near here King Edgar slew Earl iEthelwold in 963. 1 m. from Wherwell, near the junction of the Anton and Test, is the picturesque but much restored Ch. of Chilbolton, mainly E. E. and Dec., with some good Perp. wood¬ work, and modern flint tower capped by a wooden spire. It has a brass of Thomas Tuft, without date. Chil¬ bolton, at the period of the Domesday survey, belonged to the Bp. of Win¬ chester, and is said to have been granted to that see by iEthelstan, in commemoration of the overthrow of the Danish giant Colbrand by Guy of Warwick (see Winchester ). iEthelstan’s grant is authentic. 8 m. Fullerton Junct. Stat.l «■ «•» 149 Route 10. Leaving Fullerton Junct. the line, 1 m. beyond, passes close to the small Ch. of Leckford, which is mostly of early Dec. date, but has a good black marblefont, Trans.-Norm. -with plain arcading. At the E. end of the N. aisle are two statue brackets, close to one of which is a much rarer bracket for a candle. The original altar-slab, quite perfect, is in the pavement of the sanctuary, and might easily be set on the present wooden table. Part of the rood-screen is worked into the porch. The 3 bells are dated 1583, 1620, and 1623. The living, a double incumbency, is one of those rare and interesting survivals where (as also at Shorwell, I. W.) a sinecure (not lay) rectory co-exists with a vicarage. The names of the three manors here, Abbess, Abbot’s, and Riches, are remarkable. The old manor- house, now made into cottages, was probably a monastic grange (of Wherwell ?). There is an early pointed arch of chalk in an upper room. Longstock Ch., on the opposite side of the river, was rebuilt in 1880 by Wm. White. Behind the altar, which is of very good design, are some encaustic tiles from the old Ch., and in the vestry are two bosses and a piscina. 8f m., Stockbridge Stat. Stock- bridge is a borough by prescription, which returned M.P.s from the time of Elizabeth till it was dis¬ franchised by the first Reform Act. It consists of one long, wide street, but contains nothing to delay the tourist unless he be a brother of the angle. The trout-fisliing in the Test is excellent; but, as throughout the county, it is strictly preserved. The Ch. was rebuilt by Colson, in 1866, in the centre of the town, the chancel of the old Ch. near the Stat. being used as a mortuary chape]. — Stoclcbridge. In the new Ch. are retained the square black Norm, font, and some of the windows. The E. window of S. aisle has recesses for images in the splays. In the vestry are some corbel heads. After the flight of the Empress Matilda from Winchester Castle in 1141, she was overtaken at Stock- bridge by the soldiers of Stephen, where her half-brother, Robert Earl of Gloucester, who fought despe¬ rately to cover her retreat, and then sought a refuge in the Ch., was taken prisoner. The Empress herself escaped to the castle at Devizes. Stockbridge, like Andover, is famous in electioneering story for the venality of the free and inde¬ pendent burgesses. Sir R. Steele was one of its members for one Parliament, but was advised not to present himself again, as he had failed to send “ an apple stuck full of guineas,” according to promise, to the wife of the bailiff. The Stockbridge races, organised by the Bibury Club, are well known in sporting circles. They are usually held towards the end of June, on Danebury Hill, about 3 m. N.W. of the town. In the neigh¬ bourhood are the famous Danebury training stables, with which the names of John Day, father and son, were for many years connected. The stables and training-grounds are now in the occupation of Mr. T. Cannon, the well-known jockey and trainer. On Danebury Hill, on the further side of the racecourse, is a well- defined camp. The intrenchment, which is of considerable size, resem¬ bles Quarley and the others in the neighbourhood; and forms one of a line of 3 forts (Tatchbury, Nursling, Worldbury) extending along the western border of the county. Some ancient implements, called, and pro¬ bably rightly, “armourer’s tpols,” 150 Bouie 10. found within this camp, are now preserved in the Museum at Win¬ chester. On the downs adjoining are some large harrows (one of 'which is called “ Canute’s ”) of un¬ certain date. A road winds westward between the hills from Stockbridge toward Salisbury, crossing the Hampshire border at the 6th milestone. About a mile from this point is the old coaching inn, the Winterslow Hut, where the Salisbury coach, as it was changing horses, was attacked by a lion, which had escaped from a travelling menagerie. A short dis¬ tance S. of this road is Broughton, lying on the old Eoman road be¬ tween Winchester and Salisbury, and representing the intermediate station of Brigis or Brigae, which is said to be still traceable in the woods. The Ch. is mainly Trans.- Norm., with good E. E. "west door. The font is worth notice. Anne Steele, the hymn-writer, is buried here. A valuable theological library is attached to the Baptist Chapel. Harmony Hall, near, was an attempt at founding a Socialist community, which failed as usual, owing to dissensions. On the 1. of the road to Win¬ chester, 1|- m., is Worlbury Ring , the summit of which is entrenched, and contains an area of about 20 acres. On the side of the hill a figure of a white horse is cut, but it is of no great antiquity. 2 m. S. of Stockbridge, or m. N.W. of Horsebridge Stat., is the interesting Ch. of Houghton (pro¬ nounced Hoton). It has been excellently restored, first by Sir G. G. Scott, and afterwards by J. 0. Scott. The S. arcade is of three E. E. bays with circular piers ; the N. has only two bays with a large piece of walling, beyond which was a chantry. During the restoration in 1875 two squints — Houghton. were discovered, the south one piercing the easternmost half pier of the nave ; the north one piercing diagonally the east wall of the north aisle. At the side of this is a piscina, and there is another largo one in the chancel. The E. window is by Burlison and Grylls. The base of the font is Trans.-Norm., with a Tudor bowl; part of the old bowl is in the ch.-yd. Ilf m., Horsebridge Stat. 1 m. E. is King’s Somborne, of which Horsebridge is a hamlet. The Ch. is Trans.-Norm. (nave) and Dec. (chancel), and has been thoroughly restored (1886). On the N. side of the chancel is a sepul¬ chral recess, in which is placed a stone coffin, with a figure in low relief, the head destroyed, but the trefoil canopy remaining. On the edge of the slab is the name William Briwere, 1186. The tower is of wood on 8 sides, but the W. wall of it is of stone, with an E. E. corbel table. The font is Trans.- Norm., octagonal, with curious trian¬ gular shafts round the stem. In the chancel are brasses of two civilians on one slab (c. 1380). The ruins of a large mansion once exist¬ ing near the Ch., but removed for the schools, are said to have been those of a palace of John of Gaunt. A large part of the parish is still attached to the Duchy of Lancaster. Very large and ancient yew-trees abound near the ruins. The Ch. of Little Somborne, 1£ m. N.E., is plain E. E., but with some pilaster buttresses on the N. side resembling those of Corhampton. Ashley Ch., about 1 m. E. of King’s Somborne, is Trans.-Norm., and retains most of the original small windows. In the W. gable are round-headed openings for 2 bells, with Norm, imposts (comp. 151 Route 10.— Mottisfont. Littleton, near Winchester, and Corhampton, Ete. 3). The chancel arch is very small, with an opening on each side more than half as wide as the arch itself. The font is Norm. The bench-end has the date 1595, and the curious poor-box is of the same date. W. of Horsebridge Stat., 1 m., is the village of Bossington, with a Ch., rebuilt in 1839, where, on the line of the Roman road, which here crosses the Test, a pig of lead, of nearly 156 lbs., now in the British Museum, was discovered in 1783. It hears an inscription referring it to the 4t.h consulate of Nero, a.d. 60 to 68. It is supposed to have been lost in the morass when on its way from the country of the Cangi, whose name it bears, to Clausentum (Bittern) for exportation. Bossing¬ ton House is a modem Elizabethan mansion (W. H. Deverell, Esq.). 14 m., Mottisfont Stat., E. of the village. Dunbridge Stat., on the Eastleigh and Salisbury line (Ete. 11), is not much farther from it S. Mottisfont Ch. has a rich Norm, chancel arch and a Norm, bowl to the font, and a good oak nave roof. There is a brass in the chancel floor of Lord Sandys, of the Vine (Ete. 6), 1628, with an inscrip¬ tion stating that, abandoning the vault of his ancestors at the Vine (ad Vitem ), he preferred to be buried in his own domain at Mottis¬ font (ad fontem -). On the S. side of the chancel is a much mutilated monument without name or date (of Lord Sandys ?). All the chancel windows have remains of good old glass. The beautiful E. window of Perp. glass was once in the Holy Ghost Chapel at Basingstoke (Rte. 6), and was given to this Ch. as a memorial to Sir J. B. Mill, of the Abbey, by his widow, 1860. Iu the centre is the Crucifixion, with SS. Peter and Andrew above, our Lord and the Virgin with St. John the Baptist and St. Katharine; at the top, God the Father supporting the Son on the Cross. Mottisfont Abbey (D. Meinertz- hagen, Esq.) has some remains of an Augustinian priory. A Saxon foundation probably existed here; but the priory was endowed after the Conquest, by Ralph Flambard, Prior of Christ Church, and afterwards Bp. of Durham, who has usually been regarded as its founder. Other authorities make the founder William Briwere, early iu King John’s reign. He had a brother known as “the Holy Man in the Wall,” famous for his miracles, who made large benefactions to the priory. Eleanor, Queen of Edward I., was also one of its principal benefactors. Henry VIII. exchanged the priory with Lord Sandys for the manor of Chelsea; and after the sale of the Vine the Sandys family continued to reside here until the beginning of the last century, when it became extinct in the male line. One of the sisters of the late Lord Sandys, to whom Mottisfont fell, married Sir John Mill of Nursling. (Leland says that Lord Sandys “ began to trans¬ late the old building of the Priory and to make a fair Manor Place, but the work is left onperfecte.” The house, 18th cent., is built on the site of the old priory. A vaulted crypt, with a slype or passage, is now a dairy. The springing of the arches of the cloisters is also pre¬ served. In the kitchen is a Tudor doorway covered with shields. In the dining-room are two fine tapes¬ tries; one, of the Last Supper, was once the altar-piece of the chapel at the Vine. The grounds, through which a branch of the river runs, are very pretty. The manor ' of Mottisfont belonged to the Abps. of York. 152 Route 10.— About 1J m. N. from Mottisfont is Pittleworth Farm, at which are the remains of a manorial chapel, once served by priests from the Abbey. At Upper Eldon, 2 m. E. of the Stat., there is another old manorial chapel, still used occa¬ sionally for services.. Michelmersh, 1 m. E., has a Ch. with a timbered belfry, an E. E. font, and some monuments of interest, including an effigy of a knight, probably a Cantelupe, on an altar-tomb. There is a brass (c. 1520) to Tristram Fauntleroy. At Awbridge, a large hamlet of this parish, the Ch. was built by Colson , of Winchester. The small and remote Ch. of Farley Chamberlayne, 3 m. E. of Michelmersh, has many monuments of the St. John family, including a recumbent effigy of Wm. St. John, 1600. Timsbury, S. of Michelmersh, has a small Ch. originally E. E., and an intrencliment of uncertain date. The Manor House, with large grounds, is now unoccupied. A short distance from Mottisfont Stat. the line joins that from Salis¬ bury to Eastleigh (Rte. 11). 18 m., ROMSEY Junct. Stat. The noble Abbey Ch. is seen on rt. For Hornsey, see Rte. 11. Close by Romsey Stat. the East¬ leigh line is again quitted, and the park of Broadlauds is skirted on rt. 22 in., Nursling Stat. The name is a corruption of its other form, Nutshalling , interesting as the “ Hnutscilling ” of the Life of St. Boniface. At the close of the 7th cent, a small Benedictine monas¬ tery existed here, in which Winfrid of Crediton, the future apostle of Central Germany, passed his earlier years, It seems to have disappeared -Nursling. (possibly destroyed by the North¬ men) before the Conquest, at which time Nursling belonged to the Bp. of Winchester. The Church (St. Bouiface) is mostly Trans.-Norm. or E. E., but with later additions. There is an ornate monument to Sir R. Mill and his wife (d. 1613). In this parish is Grove Place , a Tudor building, once the seat of the Mill family, with a fine panelled dining-room, and possessing a noble avenue of lime-trees. 1J m. E. of Nursling is Rownhams, the seat of the late Mrs. Colt, where there is a good Dec. Ch., built by her as a memorial of her husband. The windows are all stained, and include some good Flemish glass. 23J m., Redbridge Stat., junction with the line from Southampton to Bournemouth. After passing Mill- brook Stat., the line reaches at 26| rn., SOUTHAMPTON WEST Stat., and then through a tunnel to Northam, at 28 m., SOUTHAMPTON DOCKS Stat. (see Rte. 6). 153 Route 11. ROUTE 11. EASTLEIGH TO SALISBURY, BY ROMSEY. (S. W. RLY. 23| m.) Through carriages are run by several trains between Southampton and Salisbury , thus avoiding a change at Eastleigh. Leaving the great Junct. Stat. at Eastleigh (Rte. 6), we reach at 2 m., Chandler’s Ford Stat. On the high ground on N. is Cranbury Park (T. Chamberlayne, Esq.), and beyond it, N.W., Hursley Park (J. W. Baxendale, Esq.). Hursley, 3 m., is famous as the parish of John Keble. See Excur¬ sions from Winchester (Rte. 6). Beyond Chandler’s Ford (3 m.) is the picturesque little Ch. of North Baddesley, rebuilt in 1608, which has portions from Norm, to Perp. The Knights Hospitallers had a large Commandery here ; the building was burnt in the last cent., but the kitchen is preserved in the present manor-house. In the Ch. is a tombstone with the effigy of a Knight Hospitaller ; the porch, pulpit, and screen are Jacobean: there is a chained Bible. Chilworth Ch., S. of this, was rebuilt in 1812, and is of no interest. 4 7 i m., ROMSEY Junct. Stat. Here the line from Southampton to Andover (Rte. 10) is crossed. Thus Romsey is made very easy of access from Southampton, having actually a choice of routes, via Red¬ bridge or Eastleigh, and a double service of trains. It should on no account be left unvisited by the tourist in Hampshire; the great Abbey Ch. ranking with Winchester Cathedral, St. Cross, and Christ¬ church Priory, as a treasure of which q,ny county might be proud, —Romsey. Romsey lies on the Test, in which the trout-fishing is, as is well known, unsurpassed; a few salmon also are caught annually. The town re¬ ceived its charter from James I., and its woollen manufactories and paper-mills were at one time of im¬ portance, but have now quite dis¬ appeared ; it is supported by the rich agricultural district to which it serves as a centre. In the Market¬ place is a bronze statue of Lord Palmerston, by Noble, as also the Town Hall , a fairly good structure, built 1866. The surrounding coun¬ try is pleasantly wooded. But the only great object of iuterest at Romsey is the noble ** Abbey Church, which the archaeologist will make a point of seeing. According to tradition, yEthelwulf, the father of Alfred, died at his domain of Stanbridge {post), and it is certain that a religious house was founded here at the beginning of the ioth century by Edward the Elder, son and successor of Alfred. It was rebuilt by yEthelwold, Bp. of Winchester, during the reign of Edgar, and was then filled with Benedictine nuns ; but who were its former possessors is uncertain. From this time the abbey was greatly favoured by royal patrons. The Saxon Matilda, ‘ ‘ good Queen Molde,” the first wife of Henry I., was educated here under the care of her aunt, the Abbess Christina, sister of Edgar the Hstheling. Mary, daughter of King Stephen, was for some time Abbess of Romsey, but broke her vows to become the wife of Matthew, son of Theodore Count of Flanders. She had herself suc¬ ceeded, by the death of her brother, to the county of Boulogne. Certain of the later abbesses seem to have set a still more indifferent example. On two occasions their “ immoderate habits of intemperance” incurred the severe censures of the Bishops of Winchester. The abbey was very wealthy at the Dissolution, when its gross annual revenue amounted to 53 8/ - 154 Boute 11. Its lands were granted by Ed¬ ward VI. to Lord Seymour of Sude- lev. and are now mostly in the possession of the Rt. Hon. A. E. M. Ashley, of Broadlands, or of the Willis-Fleming family. Almost the only existing relic of the abbey is its venerable Church, dedicated to the Blessed Virgin and St. Elfleda, which was purchased at the Dissolution by the parishioners for 100b, and lias of late years been restored at great expense, owing to the indefatigable exertions of the Rev. E. L. Berthon, formerly vicar. This is approached from the town by the Abbey Gateway , a plain late building. The greater part (choir, tower, and transepts) is Norm.; the nave, Trans.-Norm. and E. E. Some Dec. and Perp. insertions also occur, but far less than in most great churches, and it is valuable as presenting the outline and general aspect of a purely Norman conventual Ch. more completely than any building of equal dimensions in England. An important paper by the Rev. J. L. Petit on the architecture of this Ch. is in the Winchester vol. of the Archaeological Institute (1846); but a great deal of excellent and most conservative restoration has been done since then. The Ch. is cruciform, with a very low lantern tower, only 92 ft. high, at the intersection, surmounted by a clumsy wooden belfry, which dam¬ ages the external effect of the Ch. Both nave and choir have aisles, those of the latter extending east¬ ward of its termination, and forming a transverse aisle behind the altar. The transepts have circular apses to the E., now blocked off from the Ch. The choir, as is usual with unaltered Norman churches, is short, extending only 3 bays (52 ft.) beyond the transept. The ritual choir, with the nuns’ stalls, extended some way into the nave. This arrangement explains the very slight projection —Bomsey. of the tower piers into the centre of the building, which may be observed in many large conventual churches beside Romsey. The interior length is 240 ft. (originally 314 ft.), the width of nave and aisles 74 ft. Some traces of ancient painting will be found in the E. aisle, behind the altar; and some cinquecento paintings on wood, which formed the altar-piece of the townsmen’s altar. An ancient green velvet frontal, of the early part of the 15th cent., should also be remarked. In the S. transept is the tomb (itself Dec.) of an unknown lady, but the effigy is probably much earlier. On the S. side of the choir is a plain slab, with the un¬ grammatical inscription “ Here lays Sir William Petty.” He was the founder of the Lausdowne family (b. 1623), the son of a clothier, and a native of Romsey. He became physician-general to the army of Cromwell in Ireland, was one of the fouuders of the Royal Society, and d. 1687. A monument to his memory, with recumbent effigy, was erected by the 3rd Marquis of Lans- downe at the W. end of the nave. Observe nearly opposite a tomb to Alice Francis Taylor, with a very graceful figure of a sleeping child, the work of her father, Dr. Taylor, of Romsey, suggesting to the spec¬ tator Chantrey’s famous Lichfield group, but with much independent merit. The West Front is remarkable, and very fine. The centre is occupied by a triplet of lancets, one 40 ft., the others 36 ft. high; they are filled with painted glass by Clayton and Bell, as a memorial of Lord Palmerston. There is no W. door. A wide pointed arch, reaching into the gable, and having in its head an elegant cinquefoiled opening, comprehends the whole. The aisles have each a pointed window of one 155 Route 11. light. There are massive buttresses, with a basement “ remarkably bold and characteristic.” The clerestory on the N. side forms a continuous arcade, and is singularly beautiful. The external pilasters , nearly the whole height of the building, which in the choir and transept fronts form the imposts of blank arches, deserve notice. T1 le Cloisters on the S. side of the nave are completely destroyed, but the corbels of the roofs, in two tiers, remain. There is a much enriched Norm, door in the S. aisle of the nave; and tine E. E. doors, with shafts and capitals of foliage, on the N. and S. side of the nave. Passing into the Nave, the first 4 bays are evidently still Norm, as high as the stringcourse under the clerestory. The arrangement of pier and triforium arch recalls that at Christ Church, Oxford. The clerestory above them is Trans.- Norm., passing into E. E., with pointed arches, but still retaining the square abacus, a strong Norm, characteristic. The 3 western bays of the nave are pure E. E.; but are made to assimilate, by rectangu¬ lar basements of piers, &c., with the older work, on the foundations of which it evidently rests. The arches are made segmental to corre¬ spond in height and breadth with the spaces already marked out for them, The points of correspondence and of contrast in the two adjacent bays, as well as the gradual transi¬ tion of one style to another, ought to be carefully studied. The coved timber roof is a good modern recon¬ struction. The Central Tower was origiually open as a lantern, and the old ar¬ rangement has been partly restored. It has two ranges of arches on the inside. “ Of the upper tier it may be remarked that they are as purely — Romsey. Korean in their design as any speci¬ men of antiquity.” From the top of the tower a beautiful view is obtained over the rich surrounding country. The choir, tower, and transepts were probably begun a little before the middle of the 12th cent.; and it would be difficult to find a purer, grander, or more characteristic specimen of the style. The piers in the choir and transepts are rect¬ angular, with engaged shafts. The triforium, a most original composi¬ tion, consists of a large round arch, under which are two, with a shaft between them: “ but the composi¬ tion presents this peculiarity, that from the common spring of these 2 arches, immediately above the shaft, rises a smaller shaft which runs up to the head of the principal arch, the subordinate arches being de¬ tached from the wall, and having, which is very unusual, an outside curve corresponding with the archi- volt ” ( J . L. Petit). The clerestory consists of a triplet with shafts, the central arch being pierced for light. The arrangement of the E. end is unftsual, and should be noticed. The space is divided by a central pier, to which a flat external but¬ tress corresponds, having a window on either side of it. This bisection of a front is common in the transepts of Norm, churches, and occurs occa¬ sionally at the W. end, but is rare at the E., where we usually find an apse. The choir aisles terminate in apses, curved only within, the out¬ side walls being flat. The apses of the transepts are circular without. An E. E. or early Dec. chapel (the Lady Chapel) was added at the E. end "of the choir, but is now de¬ stroyed. Two of its windows are inserted as the E. windows of the aisle. Two windows of the earliest Dec. character, with 3 lights, wide mullions, and geometrical tracery, ornamented with clusters of foliage, were inserted in the E. wall of the 156 Route 11.- choir in place of the old Norm, win¬ dows. In the apse of the N. aisle is a fragment of early Dec. stained glass, representing the Saviour bear¬ ing his cross. The mouldings and details all deserve careful attention. The capitals of the piers and shafts are richly sculptured; and the corbel tables form a valuable study. Against the W. outside wall of the S. transept, but now protected from the weather, is a sculpture of Norm, date, representing the Crucifixion. The Saviour has the full aureole; and an open hand is stretched from a cloud above his head. The weathering of the roofs shows that this sculpture stood in a small chapel, of which it formed as it were the reredos, at the E. end of the N. cloister walk. A much en¬ riched Norm, door leads from the S. aisle of the nave into this chapel. Above the crucifix is a remarkable Norm, triplet. Another rude bas- relief of the same sacred subject is inserted in the wall filling up the S. arch formerly leading into the Lady Chapel. There is a curious but mutilated Norm, piscina in the E. aisle, where are deposited several stone coffin-lids. There is a fine altar-tomb in the N. aisle of choir, and several memorials of the St. Barbe and Palmerston families. The Choir-screen incorporates the upper part of the screen formerly separating the N. transept, then used as the parish Ch. of St. Law¬ rence, set on a modern base. It was found in the triforium. The choir- stalls, with carved heads, are modern. The tiles of the pavement are copied from some of the 12th cent, still remaining. A remarkable industry of the town is the manufacture of the JBerthon collapsible boats (the yard is in Porter Bridge Street), which were patented by the Rev. E. L. —Romsey. Berthon, vicar 18G0-92. They are now supplied to many navies and lines of passenger steamers, and the process of making them is inte¬ resting. Romsey was visited by James I., Aug. 5, 1607, the anniversary of the Cowrie conspiracy, when a sermon was preached before the king and his court by Bp. Andrews. In 1615 Fairfax marched through the town with his model army, and hanged ai soldier on the sign-post of what was then the Swan Inn. Several skirmishes took place in the neighbourhood during the Civil War. Close to the town of Romsey, S., and on the E. bank of the river Test, is Broadlands (the Right Hon. A. E. M. Ashley), originally belong¬ ing to the St. Barbes. (Edward St. Barbe was the host of James I.) The house, of white brick, with stone dressings, was built from a design by “ Capability ” Brown, who laid out the grounds, and was improved by the 2nd Lord Palmerston, the father of the Minister, from designs by Holland, the builder of Carlton House. It contains a collection of pictures of some importance, also made by the 2nd Lord, among which are specimens of Salvator Bosa , Bubens, Vandyeh , Beynolds , &c. “ The Infant Academy,” bequeathed by Sir Joshua to Lord Palmerston ; “ the Children in the Wood,” also by Beynolds; “ the Forge,” by Wright of Derby; and a copy by Domenichino of Daniele da Vol- terra’s “ Descent from the Cross,” deserve special notice. Some an¬ tique statuary is also preserved here. The Premier’s favourite room overlooks the Test, and the lawn slopes from the house to the river, which abounds with trout. There are some pleasant walks in the grounds, but the park is small and little varied. At Stanbri&ge, 1. of the line he- Route 11.— Dean. 157 yoild Rornsey, a gabled and pinnacled house, with a porch dated 1G52, but with an early pointed arch to the windows in the rear, is supposed to occupy the site of JEthelwulf’s manor. About 2 m. W. of Romsey is Embley Park (W. S. Nightingale, Esq.), a place which will be re¬ garded with much interest as the home of Florence Nightingale. Her birthplace was the city after which she was named. It is Elizabethan, but of no very marked character. The gardens aro very beautiful, looking across to the low wood- covered hills on the Wiltshire border, and famous for their rhododendrons. The Ch. of East Wellow, 1 m. further, immediately on the border of the county, and serving also as the parish Ch. of West Wellow, in Wilts, contains some wall-paint¬ ings representing St. Christopher, the Martyrdom of Becket, and apparently two kings. They were discovered beneath the whitewash, and deserve notice. The Ch. has a low-side window, aumbry, and pis¬ cina. An ancient bell, c. 1450, is inscribed to St. Margaret. Col. Norton (Cromwell’s “Idle Dick”) lived at the Manor House. The Ch. of Sherfield English, N.W. of this, is modern red brick. 11 m., Dunbridge Stat., in the parish of Mottisfont, for which see Rte. 10. 1J m. W. is Lockerley, with a handsome modern Ch.; and 3£ m. N.W. is East Tytherly, with a small restored E. E. Ch. Lockerley Hall (Capt. F. Gr. Dalgety), in this parish, is a handsome modern Elizabethan mansion. There is a British circu¬ lar earthwork, called Dumcood, on the hill above School Farm, 1 m. from Dunbridge Stat. 4 m. N. of this Stat. and 1£ m. from the village of Broughton (Rte. 10) is Queenwood College, which has seen many changes. The wood is variously said to be named after Queen Philippa or Queen Elizabeth. The house was built by Robert Owen for a Socialist community, in 1841, called “ Harmony Hall,” which naturally soon failed. Then an agricultural college for boys was tried, but proved unsuccessful. It is now an ordinary boarding school. 14f m., Dean Stat. is just on the borders of Wilts. East Dean, 1 m. E., has a small E. E. Ch. West Dean, close to the Slat., is in Wilts; it has several interesting monuments of the Evelyns and Pierreponts. West Dean House, now pulled down, was the seat of the Evelyns, and afterwards of the 1st Duke of Kingston. It is mentioned in the letters of Lady Mary Montagu, his daughter. 21 m. N. of the Stat. is West Tytherly, where the Ch. was built in 1833. Beyond it, on the border of the county, is Norman Court (W. H. Baring, Esq.), a stately mansion built about 100 years since. The park is large, and is famous for the size and beauty of its beech- trees. This place, which lies on the line of the Roman road from Win¬ chester to Salisbury, is interesting as being, according to tradition, the spot at which the Conqueror re¬ ceived the homage of the “ men of Sarisberie.” The Saxon delegates from the western counties had as¬ sembled at Old Sarum, and came on here, where they became the “ liege men” of King William. The line approaches close to Salisbury on the E., affording a fine view of the Cathedral through a gap, before making a long circuit to reach at 23£ m., SALISBURY Stat. (JIMk. for Wilts). 158 Route 12.— Bittern. ROUTE 12. SOUTHAMPTON, BY NETLEY, TO FAREHAM. (S. W. ELY.) This Rly. was extended from Netley, the former terminus, to Fare- ham, in 1889, and affords an alter¬ native route, somewhat shorter in distance, though not always in time, to that from Southampton to Ports¬ mouth by way of Eastleigh Junct. From Southampton to Netley the course is curiously roundabout, in order to reach a practicable bridge over the broadening estuary of the Itchen, proceeding up the rt. bank to St. Denys, and then crossing and going down the 1. bank. Starting from either the Docks or the West Stat. (see time-tables), at Southampton the line to London is followed to If m., St. Denys Stat. (Rte. 6). The line then crosses the Itchen to 2J m., Bittern Road Stat. Bittern, nosv a suburb of South¬ ampton, has a modern Ch., 1 m. E. of the Stat. The remains of Glausentum , or, at least, its central fort, are in the grounds of Bittern Manor (Sir Stewart Macnaghten) between the Stat. and the river. Some portions of the walls are still standing in the grounds; and Roman remains of all descriptions have been found here at different times, some of which are in the British Museum. The walls, about 9 ft. thick, were composed of flint and small stones, with the usual Roman grouting. The station does not seem to have been large; and was probably intended to protect the ap¬ proach to Winchester (an important Roman city) by the stream of the Itchen. Among the numerous in¬ scriptions which have been found here, by far the greater part relate to Tetricus (one of the British usurpers after Gallienus), “whence we are justified, perhaps, in supposing his headquarters to have been at Clau- sentum and the neighbouring coasts.”— Wright. The greater part of these inscriptions may be seen on the spot. Bittern long belonged to the Bps. of Winchester, who had a residence here, in which Abp. Kilwardby kept his Christmas in 1274. Bevois Mount rises opposite ; and the mound may perhaps have been connected with the walled “ Castellmn,” but the more usual view is that it was a sepulchral mound. The walk, a pleasant one when the tide is up, may be continued along the 1. bank of the river as far as Itchen Ferry, where there is a floating bridge across to Southamp¬ ton. By means of this bridge the villages of Woolston and Weston have now been rendered mere suburbs of the town, to the great detriment of their former character, which was almost that of a wood¬ land solitude. 4 m., Woolston Stat. If the ferry across the Itchen be used instead of the Rly., this Stat. is not a mile from the Docks. Woolston is a mere suburb of South¬ ampton, and of no interest. Jems Chapel, on Pear-Tree Green, was consecrated by Bp. Andrewes in 1620, who drew up for it the form still chiefiv used for the dedication of churches. 4J m., Sholing Stat. Sholing is also a mere suburb, but more of the market-garden character. Between it and the Southampton Water is Weston, where a handsome Ch. was built at the sole expense of the Rev. W. P. 159 Route 12 Hulton, 18G6. An obelisk here was erected in honour of Charles Janies Fox. On the shore is a curious old sea-weed covered hut, used by fishermen. Gf m., Netley Stat. Netley is the favourite ex¬ cursion from Southampton, and is famous for the two most interesting places of very different character which it contains, the ruined Abbey, and the Royal Victoria Hospital; the latter J m., and the former 1 m. from the Stat. The pleasantest way of access in summer from South¬ ampton is by chartering a boat at the Town Quay. The walking distance across the ferry is under 4 m. The Abbey is open every day. Admission, week days, 2d.; Sun¬ days, G d. The Hospital can be visited on application there. The name Netley is probably “ Natanleaga,” or the “ wet leas,” a wooded district, which extended from the Avon to the Test and Itchen. There is another Netley within these bounds near Eling (Rte. 13). A Cistercian abbey was founded here in 1237, either by King Henry III., or by Peter de Roches, Bp. of Winchester ; most probably, however, by the former, since it was dedicated not only to the Virgin, the usual patroness of Cis¬ tercian houses, but also to Edward the Confessor, the especial patron of the king. The monks were brought hither from Beaulieu. Sub¬ sequent benefactors much enriched it, though it was by no means wealthy at the Dissolution, when its annual revenue was IGOh The site and manor were granted to the compliant Sir Wm. Paulet, the 1st Marquis of Winchester, from whom they passed to the Earl of Hert¬ ford, son of the Protector Duke of Somerset, who entertained Queen — Netley. Elizabeth here in 15G0. On a base of a pillar is an inscription begin¬ ning “ Elizabetha Rex (sic) Anglim.” By its new owner the abbey was fitted up as a private residence. The abbey afterwards passed to the Earl of Huntingdon, by whom a portion of the Ch. was used as a tennis-court, a small part still retaining its sacred character as a domestic chapel, while the nave became a kitchen and other offices. In 1700 the Abbey became the property of Sir Berkeley Lucy, who sold the materials of the great Ch. (till that time entire) to a builder of Southampton named Tay¬ lor. Of this person a remarkable story is told, which Spelman would have inserted with no small pleasure in his ‘ History of Sacrilege.’ After Taylor had concluded his contract with Sir Berkeley Lucy some of his friends warned him against touching the remains of the abbey, saying “ that they would themselves never be concerned in the demolition of holy and consecrated places.” Their remarks made a great impression on Taylor, who dreamt that, in taking down the roof of the Cli., the key¬ stone of the arch, above the window, fell from its place and killed him. He told his dream to Mr. Watts, a schoolmaster in Southampton, father of Dr. Isaac Watts, who gave him the somewhat Jesuitical advice *• to have no personal concern in pulling down the building.” This advice was not followed; and Tay¬ lor’s skull, it is said, was actually fractured by a stone which fell from the window.— Moody. The acci¬ dent had the good effect of staying the destruction of the abbey, which has since been uninjured except by time and tourists. The ruins are now the property of T. Chamber- lay ne, Esq., of Cranbury Park, and much has been done for their pre¬ servation. During the works several interesting discoveries were made, which are described by the Rev. 160 Route 12 .—^Netleij* E. Kell, Collect. Archseol ., vol. ii., pt. 1, 1863. Much of the wood which formerly closed in the ruins has been felled; but the scene still partly explains Walpole’s raptures. “ How,” he writes to Bentley, Sep¬ tember, 1755, “ shall I describe Net- ley to you? I can only by telling you it is the spot in the world which I and Mr. Chute wish. The ruins are vast, and retain fragments of beautiful fretted roof pendant in the air, with all variety of Gothic pat¬ terns of windows wrapped round and round with ivy. Many trees are sprouted up among the walls, and only want to be increased with cypresses. A hill rises above the abbey, encircled with wood. The fort, in which we would build a tower for habitation, remains, with two small platforms. This little castle is buried from the abbey in a wood, in the very centre, on the edge of the hill. On each side breaks in the view of the Southampton sea, deep blue, glistening with silver and vessels ; on one side terminated by Southampton, on the other by Calshot Castle ; and the Isle of Wight rising above the opposite hills. In short, they are not the ruins of Netley, but of Paradise. Oh ! the purple abbots ! what a spot had they chosen to slumber in ! The scene is so beautifully tranquil, yet so lively, that they seem only to have retired into the world.” A retired situation is the favourite one for Cistercian abbeys, and 30 years ago this was quite solitary. A road now passes close to the ruins, and the vicinity of the military hos¬ pital brings great traffic under the old walls. Villas have been built, rows of ill-favoured small houses have sprung up all round, and the charm of the place is lost. Until 1860 the ruins were utterly neg¬ lected, and the vicinity of South¬ ampton brought crowds of visitors, by whom the place w'as horribly desecrated. Since the ruins came into the possession of Mr. Chamberlayne they have been most carefully kept. An admission fee has been estab¬ lished, which is well expended. Extensive excavations have been made in the ruins ; tons of rub¬ bish have been carted away, and trees, which threatened the stability of the walls, have been felled, while young trees have been planted. Many windows which had been blocked up have been opened, and much of the brickwork, introduced by its lay occupants, removed. The area of the Ch. itself, however, ought to be kept free from picnics. The ruins consist of the outer walls of the Ch. with the excep¬ tion of the N. transept, which has entirely disappeared, though its out¬ line is marked; the cloister court, with the chapter-house, day-room, and other monastic offices to the E. and S. ; and the shell of the abbot’s house. All are in the same style, E. E., verging upon Dec., but not of one date. The visitor enters at the S., and crossing the greensward, which conceals the foundations of the refectory (here, as at the mother house of Beaulieu, projecting south¬ wards from the centre of the S. walk of the cloister), and passing through some modernised buildings, with the site of the monastic kit¬ chen to the rt. and the porter’s lodge (modern) to the 1., is ad¬ mitted into the Cloister, or, as it is often called, from a con¬ duit formerly existing in the centre, the Fountain Court , 11-1 ft. square, shaded by noble trees. The en¬ trance is by the old refectory door; one of the E. E. shafts may be seen peeping out of the later work. The view here is most striking. To the N. is the wall of the S. aisle of the Ch., with E. E. triplets. To the E., the S. transept, with its ivy-clad gable, and the 3 exquisite arches betw T een the cloister and chapter- house, and the adjacent buildings, 161 Route 12 .— Netley. form a most picturesque group. The narrow slits between the larger windows of the later occupants mark the monks’ dormitory, which ran over the buildings on this side. On the S. wall the remains of the lavatory may be traced. Two doors in the N. walk admit to the Church, 211 ft. long by 58 ft. wide. This is throughout E. E., but of more than one date. The choir and transept are the earliest. Then come the S. aisle, the N. aisle, and last, the W. front. The E. window, not unlike those of the chapter-house of Salisbury, was of 4 lights, with an S-foiled circle in the head, the arch 5 times re¬ cessed. The caps and bases of 4 shafts remain in each of the jambs. The shafts themselves, and the secondary mullions, are gone. The side windows of the choir and tran¬ septs are of 2 lancet lights, with a common arch within, having E. E. shafts in the jambs. Those of the S. aisle are triplets, the centre light foliated. In the N. aisle the de¬ tached lights have developed into a 3-light window with real tracery. The W. windoAV is the latest in the church. It has lost its mullions and tracery, but the arch remains. Of the arcade nothing remains but the stumps of the piers of the cross¬ ing, and one or two in the nave. The clerestory came down to the spring above the arches, and there was no distinct triforium. The church was vaulted throughout. In the S. transept the springing of a rich roof of late character, which was perfect up to a recent period, is still conspicuous. The nave was of 8 bays, the choir of 4, the transept of 3. The bases of the 3 chief altars remain, with piscina and aumbry. The E. aisle of the S. transept retains its plain quadripar¬ tite vaulting. The S. bay is said to have been the Lady Chapel. The clerestory here is perfect, and access is obtained to it by a spiral staircase at the S.E. angle of the choir. This [ Hants.'] is worth ascending for the sake of the view of the ruins it affords. The central tower is said to have served as a sea-mark. Leaving the transept, we enter the Sacristy (with the 1 Muniment- room above), plainly vaulted, where remark the altar-steps, the piscina, and aumbry. Further S. is the Chapter-house, 33 ft. square, with its 3 beautiful open arches and clus¬ tered shafts, and 3 tine E. E. win¬ dows of 2 lancet lights, with foliated circles in the he;ids. The arches are richly moulded with the round and fillet, deep hollows, and the scroll moulding. The bases of the 4 pillars which supported its vaulted roof are to be seen. Beyond this is the passage to the abbot’s house, which is succeeded by what is usually shown as the refectory, but was really the Monks’ Day Room, or locutorium, 70 ft. by 25 it. This was a vaulted room of 5 bays, divided down the centre by a row of pillars (the usual Cistercian ar¬ rangement, as at Furness and Beau¬ lieu). One lancet remains to the E.: the other windows have been altered, and are 2-light square¬ headed Dec., with transoms. Pro¬ ceeding still to the S. we are shown the Buttery and Kitchen, which, though they may have filled that character in the post-reformation days (when the buttery-hatches were opened) had a far different designation originally. The so- called kitchen, it is evident from the fireplace of domestic, not culi¬ nary character, the long drain which traverses if, and the small cells crossing the channel, was the monks’ calefactory and garderohe , a portion of the monastery always arranged with scrupulous care. It is a noble room, 48 ft. by 18 ft., with windows that deserve notice, and vaulted roof peeled to the grouting. The fireplace is a good example of 13th-centy, work. It is partly de¬ al 162 Route 12 .— Netley. stroyed; blit the trusses, part of the shafts, and a bracket remain, the chimney of which is carried up in the thickness of the wall to the corbel table, and terminates between two of the corbels, a mode of contri¬ ving the chimney of which many examples occur in Norman castles. The brickwork observed in the walls of the domestic buildings be¬ longs to the period after the Disso¬ lution. The Abbey garden is on the E. of the cloister court, and commands the best general view of the ruins. The Abbot’s House adjoins. The vaulted substructures are lighted by E. E. lancets. The Abbey was entirely surroun¬ ded by a moat, part of which may still be traced; and beyond it, E., are the hollows of two large fish¬ ponds. The modern Ch. of Netley is close to the Abbey. It has a handsome reredos, font, and pulpit, and a diminutive effigy of a knight from the ruins. The old parish Ch., at Hound, further E., is a small E. E. building. It has a huge yew-tree in the ch.-yd. Netley Castle (Col. the Hon. H. G. L. Crichton), to which Walpole alludes, originally the gate-house of the Abbey, is now occupied as a private residence. It is close to the water’s edge, and was, at the Disso¬ lution, strengthened from the mate¬ rials of the Abbey and converted into one of the many small forts built by Henry VIII. for the pro¬ tection of the southern coast. The tower was added in 1826, when it was altered into a dwelliDg-house. About a mile S. of the abbey, and connected with it by a straggling- line of mean houses, beershops, &c., is the great Victoria Military Hos¬ pital, established immediately after the Crimean war to supply a want then severely felt. It is one of the many legacies bequeathed to the country by the practical wisdom and active benevolence of the late Prince Consort. Many objections were made to the site, in Parlia¬ ment and elsewhere, on the score of the supposed unhealthiness of the mud-banks uncovered at low water. Experience, however, has proved that these objections are unfounded, and that the position is as salubrious as it is convenient. The first stone was laid by the Queen, May 19, 1856. It is built of red brick with a profusion of white stone dressings, and is strik¬ ing from its immense length, a little less than J of a mile, and the stateliness of its outline, broken by a central cupola and several strangely shaped turrets, though it is hardly calculated to enhance the credit of our country for architec¬ tural genius. The cost of the land and buildings was 334,172Z., or 294L per man, for the number of patients it is meant to receive. Yet, whatever be its artistic faults, its arrangements are excellent in every respect, and it has the merit of being admirably fitted for its pur¬ pose. It contains 138 wards and 1065 beds, with about 1700 cubic ft. of space for each inmate. A corridor of J m. in length, for in¬ door exercise, runs along each of the 3 stories, and in fine weather marquees are pitched on the lawn in front, well provided with seats for convalescents. Each wing contains 45 wards. In that to the N. are the sick wards. To the S. are those for convalescents. The centre con¬ tains the official departments and rooms for the officers and nurses. The chapel, a large cold-looking apartment of the concert-room order, stands in the rear of the main building. To the N., standing on higher ground, and injuring the effect of the main edifice, is a large detached and very plain building Route 12 .— Bursledon. 163 for the medical staff, the library, and museum. The visitor will ob¬ tain permission to inspect the in¬ terior, and the services of an intel¬ ligent sergeant as guide, by appli¬ cation at the orderly-room, at the N. end of the building. In front of the museum is an octagonal monumental cross in memory of the medical officers who died in the Crimea; the first stone was laid by H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, Aug. 1, 1861. 9 m., Bursledon Stat. (not much more than 4 m. by road over the ferry). Bursledon has a wharf on the Ramble Creek, a long arm of the Southampton Water, for the upper part of which see Botley , Rte. 4. Men-of-war were formerly built here. The Ch. was originally Norm., but has been much modernised, with transepts added. It has a Norm, font, and a curious monument to a shipbuilder, temp. George II. A ferry crosses the creek to Lower Swan wick on the opposite bank. In the summer of 1875, a vessel 130 ft. long, believed to be a Danish war galley, was here found imbedded in the mud. An examination of the vessel, under the direction of the Hartley Institute, Southampton, was attempted, but had to be abandoned. Some specimens of the timber are to be seen at the Institute. 2 m. lower down, and at the mouth of the creek, is the fishing village of Hanible (or in full, Hamble-le- Ilice). At Hamble was an alien priory, founded by Bp. Henry de Blois, and given by him to the Cistercian Abbey of Thiron, near Chartres. It was suppressed by Henry V., and its possessions were granted to Win¬ chester College; there are no re¬ mains. The Church has some Norm, por¬ tions, including a rich doorway. The tower was rebuilt in 1412, and in 1880 a south aisle was added; the rest of the Ch. is mainly Perp. Leland describes Hamble as “ a good fisliar town,” which it still is ; there is a lobster fishery, and crabs are brought here from the French and Irish coasts to be forwarded for the supply of the London market. On the adjacent shore of the South¬ ampton Water are some fragments of an ancient “ castelet.” There are pleasant walks in this neighbour¬ hood, which is worth exploring. Hamble can be reached by water from Southampton. At Hamble there is a ferry to Warsash, which with Hook is a parish formed out of Titclifield, and lias a modern Ch. Sarisbary Court (Sir E. Walter), higher up the Hamble, has beautiful grounds on the banks. lOf m., Swanwick Stat. Swanwick (probably = Swein- wic), with Sarisbury, is another parish cut out of the once large one of Titclifield, and has a modern Ch. The cultivation of strawberries is the chief industry here, many tons being sent daily in the season to Covent Garden. The line then passes close to the ruins of Place House (Rte. 4) and reaches at 14 1 m., Fareham Junct. Stat. (Rte. 4). M 2 164 Route 13 . ROUTE 13. LONDON AND SOUTHAMPTON TO BOURNEMOUTH. (S. W. KLY. 107£ m.) For the journey from London to Southampton, see Rte. G. Some of the local trains on this line start from Southampton Docks Stat. ; hut the trains from London to Bournemouth pass through a tunnel beginning near Northcim Stat., and issue from it on the western shore. The view here is pleasant, or very much the reverse, according to the state of the tide. 79£ m., Southampton West Stat. This once wretched Stat. has been rebuilt in red brick, witli a clock tower. As already noted, the busy Southampton Docks Stat. has not a single express ( = 40 m. per hour) on week-days from London ; but two of the three Bournemouth expresses stop at the West Stat. 80 £ m., Millbrook Stat. This sub¬ urb of Southnmpton has a fine modern Ch. by Woodyer, with a spire 150 ft. high. The parish is large, including Redbridge and the grow¬ ing suburb of Shirley and its common. 82 m., Redtridge Stat. Here the line to Romsey and Andover turns off rt. (Rte. 10). Redbridge, which stands at the junction of the Test with the Southampton Water, hero crossed by the rly. cn a new iron viaduct, £ m. long, is supposed Redbridge. to be the “ Hreutford ** and Vadurrt Arundinis of Bede, who describes a small monastery os existing therein the 7th centy., the abbot of which, by name Cynibert, failing in his attempt to save the lives of the two sons of Arvald, King of Wight, who had fallen into the hands of Cead- walla, delayed their death till he had brought them to Christian bap¬ tism. (Hist. Eccles. iv. 16.) It had quite disappeared before the Con¬ quest. Some men-of-war were built at Redbridge during the Napoleonic war. It is a great depot for railway sleepers, which are brought in large quantities by sea. 82| m., Totton Stat. Totton, a large hamlet of Eling, forms prac¬ tically one town with Redbridge on the opposite bank, enjoying a flourishing trade in corn and timber. 1 m. S. of Totton is Eling, called Edlinges in Domesday, where the Ch., on a hill overlooking South¬ ampton Water, restored by Ferrey , has some points of interest. It is chiefly Dec., “but there is a rude Romanesque arch at the E. end of the N. aisle of the nave, which probably was part of the Saxon church ; its simple form and cha¬ racteristic masonry prove it to be of very early date, and may be taken as a confirmation of the opinion offered by Mr. Wise, in his work upon the ‘ New Forest,’ that William was not guilty of the entire destruc¬ tion of churches traditionally as¬ cribed to him ” (B. Ferrey, in Gent.'s. Mag., Aug. 1865, p. 21 x). 2£ m. beyond Eling is March- wood, where are the Powder Maga¬ zines of the Naval Ordnance, with a hospital and barracks. The Ch. is modern. The magazines can only be visited by very special order. About 2 m. N.W. of Totton is Tutchbury Mount, with a well-marked intrencliment on its summit, one of Boute 13 .— Broclcenliurst. 165 a chain of camps which extended along the western border of the comity. On the further side of Tatchbury is Pciultons (R. C. Hans Sloane-Stanley, Esq.), containing a good collection of pictures. The park has a long lake formed out of the Cadnam stream. Leaving Totton, the rly. bends S., crosses Netley Marsh (distinct from the well-known Netley of Rte. 12), and enters the New Forest near 86 m„ Lyndhurst Road Stat. There are omnibuses in connexion with every train to Lyndhurst , 2f m. S.W. For Lyndhurst and the New Forest in general, see Rte. 14. From Lyndhurst Hoad to Sway the rly. is passing through the New Forest, and often affords charming glimpses of forest scenery on either hand. S8f m., Beaulieu Road Stat. This little Stat., on a bleak moor, remote from any village or hamlet, was closed for many years, but has been re-opened. There are many tumuli on the moor. An enclosure, rt. of the line, called the Bishop’s Purlieu , having been part of the episcopal Manor of Fawley, has a remarkable bank on its N. and E. sides, and encloses one of the largest bogs in the Forest. Beaulieu Abbey is about 3| m. S.E., and this remarkable but very inaccessible corner of the Forest is much helped by the re-opening of the Stat. See New Forest , Rte. 14. 92^ m., Brockenhurst Junct. Stat. Here in the heart of the New Forest, the trains are divided, or carriages changed for Lymington, or Dor¬ chester and 1 Weymouth. See Neic Forest, Rte. 14. ] m. beyond Brockenhurst the line to Lymington (Rte. 14) gives oft* on h, and that to Ringwood (Rte. 15), Dorchester, and Weymouth on rt. 95 \ m., Sway Stat. Sway is merely a hamlet of Hordle, now made a separate parish. The Ch. is of no interest. A tall tower 1. of the line, looking like a factory chim¬ ney, is conspicuous from the oppo¬ site downs of the Isle of Wight, and a most extensive view is commanded from the top of it. The key can be obtained at a cottage near. Hordle Ch., 24 m. S.,"is a red-brick building, with an unfinished tower by Giles. The old Ch. on the cliff, which was cruciform, has been swallowed up iu the sea. Near the line is Arne- wood Toivers (Gen. T. T. Turton), well known from Marryat’s ‘ Chil¬ dren of the New Forest/ 98J in., Milton Stat. Milton Ch., built iu 1831, is of no interest. Beyond it, about 1£ m. from the Stat., and not far from the sea, an old country house has been made into a very comfortable hotel, called Barton Court Hotel. About 34 m. S.E. (nearly the same S.W. from Lymington Stat.) is the village of Milford, where the Ch. deserves a visit. It contains some Norm, portions, including two good bays in the S. arcade, and plain early doorways to the transepts, the N. one of which has been formed into a trefoiled head, but is for the most part E. E. and early Dec. The tower (which deserves notice) is E. E., and has a low spire. Remark the exterior stringcourse with grotesque heads, and the long double lancets above. Iu the Ch. is a monument by Foley to Admiral Sir William Cornwallis, 1819; and one by Macdowel, It.A. (with bas- relief), to Sir James Rivett-Carnac, 1846. In the W. wall of the N. aisle is a curious recess, and in the ch.-yd. are the steps of a cross. A new quarter of villas and lodging-houses with a quiet and comfortable hotel (the Victoria ) has grown up on the shore, about f m. S.W., and calls itself Milford-on-Sea. The air is very good, and it com- 166 Boute 13 . Hordle. mauds a fine view of the closely confronting Isle of Wight, from Yarmouth to the Needles. Newlctnds Manor (Col. Cornwallis West), 1 m. N. of Milford, lias a fine collection of pictures. From Milford the pedestrian should proceed along the cliffs to Hordle Cliffs (2 m. W.). The locality is well known as one of high geolo¬ gical interest; but the view which the tourist will enjoy on gaining the cliffs beyond Milford is in itself sufficiently attractive. He here finds himself on the shore of Christchurch Bay, “a semi-elliptical excavation, about 11 m. long, formed by the action of the sea on the Hampshire coast, which is here composed of an extension of the eocene strata of the N.W. part of the Isle of Wight.”— Mantell. The sea is gaining on the land, and the beach is covered with enormous masses of cliff, tumbled in wild ruin among the shingle. At the W. end of the bay appears Hengistbury Head ; the E. end is formed by the long bar of shingle on which Hurst Castle stands. In front are the Needles, and the W. point of the Isle of Wight. The entire line of cliff, from this spot to its termination near Mudeford, is rich in fossils; but the marine fossil shells know r n as “Hordle fossils” are usually pro¬ cured from Barton Cliffs , toward the centre of the bay. The London clay here joins a series of freshwater beds, consisting of alternating marl, sand, and clay. The alluvial gravel which forms the subsoil of so large a portion of this coast appears at the top of the cliffs in a bed varying from 20 ft. to 50 ft. in thickness. The freshwater deposits , extend¬ ing from Hordle to Beckton Cliffs, contain shells of various genera, lacustrine and fluviatile; bitumi¬ nous wood and seed-vessels; remains of mammalia, of an alligator known as “ Alligator Hantoniensis,” of lizards, serpents, and birds. These remains are no doubt due to the deposits of an ancient river which flowed westerly into the sea (now represented by the beds of London clay). At Barton Cliffs, where the London clay joins this freshwater deposit, some species of marine shells are found mixed with the others; but are gradually replaced, as we proceed eastward, by those of fresh¬ water origin—just such a succession as we should expect to meet in trac¬ ing the course of a river upwards from its mouth. The marine or London clay strata, stretching westward, abound in fossils of the usual class. “ These are most conveniently ob¬ tained from the low cliff near Beckton Bunny ” ( bunny —the chine of the Isle of Wight, a word also used here—is the local name for a glen with a brook running into the sea), “ and occur in greatest abundance in the upper part of the dark green sandy clay. There are generally blocks of the indurated portions of the strata on the beach, from which fossils may be extracted.” (For more ample details see MantelVs ‘ Geology of the Isle of Wight and adjacent coasts.’) The cliffs are gradually melting into the sea; the old Ch. of Hordle has disappeared, and the ch.-yd. is within 100 yds. of the precipice. A fanatic community, called Shakers, established themselves in this parish about 1872 , and excited considerable attention by their strange doings ; they remained here, living in the greatest poverty, until by the death of the head of their sect, Mrs. Girling,in 1887 , they were finally dispersed. \ m. beyond Hordle, W., is Beclc- ton Bunny , once a great resort of smugglers, a bare wide gorge, with beds of heath and gorge fringing the cliff. At this point the brack¬ ish water beds end and the marine series begins. Continuing along the cliff, with grand views across to 167 Route 13 .— the white Needles and the coloured sands of Alum Bay, wo reach, 3i m. from Hordle, Chewton Bunny , a lovely glen fringed down to the very edge of the sea with oak coppice. The pedestrian may proceed along the coast to Mudeford by the cliff- path, commanding line and exten¬ sive views; or a more inland course may be taken by Milton. The cliff- path is preferable, for the land views here arc not very striking. 101 in., Hinton Admiral Stat. Hinton Admiral (Sir G. E. M. Tapps-Gervis-Meyrick, Bart.) is a house in Queen Anne style, in a line park of about 300 acres. Hin¬ ton Ch., on the edge of the park, was built in 1786, but has received many additions and alterations. Beech House (G. A. E. Tapps-Gervis- Meyrick, Esq.), N. of Hinton Ad¬ miral, in the modern parish of Bransgore (the church was built in 1822), is a 17th-cent. house in a pretty park with ornamental waters. 1 m. S. is Highcliffe, a modern parish growing into a summer bathing-place, where the Church was built, in 1813, by the 1st and only Baron Stuart de Rothesay. The stained E. window was designed by the talented Louisa, Marchioness of Waterford, who lived at Highcliffe Castle, the property of Major E. I. Montagu-Stuart-Wortley (now un¬ occupied). It is a very curious and inte¬ resting house, approached from the land side through a thick wood of firs. The estate belonged to Lord Bute (the Minister of George III.), who built a villa here, the site of which has long since been washed away by the sea. The present house, built by the late Lord Stuart de Rothesay at no great distance in¬ land, is said to be in danger from the same cause (the landsprings), although many years may elapse before its fantastic turrets are over¬ thrown. It is a modern Gothic Highcliffe. edifice, a mixture of castle, abbey, and church, picturesque enough in itself, the style being determined by a number of fragments brought from monastic ruins in Normandy. Many of the window-cases and arches, and the frame of an oriel window in the garden front, are from the abbey of St. Wandrille, on the Seine ; they are beautiful specimens of flamboyant tracery and carving. In the open¬ work of the parapet appear the two well-known lines of Lucretius—• “ Suave mari magno turbantibus tequora ventis, E terra magnum alterius spectare la- borem.” The house contains some antique fragments of interest. In the Hall remark some very fine oak carving of flamboyant character, brought from a convent in Normandy; the wall above is hung with good tapestry. The stained glass of the window (French and Flemish of the 16th cent.) also deserves notice. In the Library is a small cabinet, with a Crucifixion, attributed to Antonello da Messina. It is (like many of Antonello’s works) very Flemish in character. Here is also a portrait of the Earl of Lindsey, killed in the fight at Edge Hill. The Drawing Boom contains 2 fine tapestries (date 1783), after Berthe - lemy, representing the massacre of St. Bartholomew’s Day. In the Dining Boom is a copy of the well- known portrait of Joanna of Naples. From II ighcliffe you may proceed along the cliff, still commanding a noble view of the open sea, 2 m. to Mudeford—the ford of the Mude— a little village at the N.E. corner of the estuary that stretches up to Christchurch. There are two small Inns, lodgings are to be had in many of the houses, and the beach affords excellent bathing; the sands are level and extensive. The low, one- storied villa, at the extreme point 1. as the road turns up from the sands 168 Route 13 .— Christchurch. to the village, is Gundimore (Col. W. H. Surman), formerly the resi¬ dence of William Stewart Rose, who was visited here by Sir Walter Scott in 1807, and to whom Canto I. of ‘ Marmion ’ is addressed. Scott was at this time at work on ‘ Mar¬ mion,’ and several sheets of MS. and corrected proofs of the 3rd canto were despatched from here. Cole¬ ridge was in lodgings at Mudeford in Nov., 1810. Near Mudeford are Elmhurst (Hamilton Fletcher, Esq.), a small Strawberry Hill, and Bure Homage (F. Ricardo, Esq.), with very line grounds. Beyond Gundimore, to the W., is Wolhayes (A. Entwistle, Esq.), for¬ merly belonging to Sir George Rose, the elder brother of Sir Walter’s friend. In the grounds the arbutus, pinaster, and cistus flourish in pro¬ fusion, the sandy soil well suiting them. N. of the line lies Burton, with its “ Staple Cross,” where Southey and his wife, in company with Chas. Lloyd, spent the summerof1797, were introduced to Chas. Lamb, and made the acquaintance .of his correspon¬ dent and valued friend Rickman, “ the sturdiest of jovial companions.” He returned in 1799 with the pur¬ pose of settling here ; took a cottage, “ Southey Palace that is to be,” got his books about him, and wrote a considerable portion of his ‘ Thal- aba,’ but was driven away by sick¬ ness and “ the want of abler medical advice.” The Cli. is by Ferrey. 104 m., CHRISTCHURCH Slat. Here the old line, by way of Ring- wood, falls in on rt. The longest run of the S. W. Rly. without a stop is by the 2.15 from Waterloo to Christchurch. Christchurch stands at the head of the estuary that opens into Christ¬ church Bay, and between the two rivers, the Avon and the Stour, that descend, the one from Wiltshire and the other from Somersetshire, and here join the sea. Hence the Saxon name of the place, Tweonaeteam , from the island or peninsula formed by the two streams. The great Augustinian priory of Christchurch, however, founded here before the Conquest, soon superseded this earlier name, although the place was for long after occasionally called “ Christchurch-Twineham.” The Ang.-Sax. Chronicle alludes to it in the year 901, when, during the contest for the crown between Edward the Elder and his kinsman Hithelwald, the latter took Wimborne and ‘ ‘ Twe- oxneam. ” In Domesday it appears in the form Thuinam, obviously a Norm, phonetic rendering. The manor of Twineham belonged to the Crown, and was granted by Henry I. to Richard de Redvers, whose descendants continued to possess it until 1293, when the Countess Isa¬ bella de Eortibus sold it to Edw. I., together with the royalties of the Isle of Wight and the manor of Lambeth. A lease of the manor of Twineham was subsequently granted both to the Montacutes and to the Nevilles, Earls of Salisbury, whose descendant, the unfortunate Countess Margaret, mother of Car¬ dinal Pole, enjoyed it until her attainder in April, 1539. The town was visited by Edward VI., in his southern progress in vain pursuit of health, shortly before his death. Some sharp fighting took place here in the Civil War, the town being held for the king by Lord Goring. Christchurch is a borough by pre¬ scription. It returned members to Parliament under Edw. I. and II., but not afterwards until the reign of Elizabeth. It owes its present no¬ minal retention of this privilege merely to the inclusion of the greater modern town of Bournemouth. One of the favourite schemes of the great Lord Clarendon, who had property here, was to render the Avon navig¬ able to Salisbury, and to make the harbour an anchorage for men-of-war. The town consists for the most part of two long straggling streets. It lias a decayipg remnant of a Route 13 .— Christchurch. 169 curious manufacture, that of fusee chains for clocks and watches, which existed nowhere else in England, and formerly employed some hun¬ dreds of hands, mostly young women. The salmon fishing of the Avon estuary is celebrated. Warner, the Christchurch historian, says that he remembers as a boy having seen 95 taken at a draught. The great attraction of the town is, as it always has been, the grand Priori/ Ch but no archaeologist should omit to visit the very valuable Norm, home, by the Castle ruins, and for the ornithologist there is an unusually rich Museum. The town and Ch. have been fortunate in historians. Benjamin Ferrei/s ‘Antiquities of Christchurch,’ 1834, is a fine work, with full details, and several dis¬ tinguished archaeologists, Sir Gilbert Scott, F. A. Paley, Mackenzie Walcott, and E. A. Freeman ( Eng¬ lish Towns and Districts'), have written about them. The **Priory Church, one of the noblest not of cathedral rank in all England, stands at the extreme poiut of the meadows between two rivers, and its tower forms a noted sea-mark. The year in which the Saxon church was founded is unknown; but a religious establishment, con¬ sisting of a dean and 25 secular canons, existed here at the period of the Domesday survey, which in the year 1150 was converted into a priory of Augustinian canons regular, under the auspices of Baldwin de Redvers, Earl of Devon, whose descendants continued to be liberal benefactors to the house. Most of the succeed¬ ing kings also made large grants to the priory, the annual income of which, at the surrender, was 519/. The prior is described in the com¬ missioner’s report as a “very honest conformable person,” and the house, as “ well furnished with juellys and plate, whereof some be mete for the King’s Maiesties use.” Leland had before declared that the library was all but empty, containing only one small volume on the old English laws. The Chartulary is now in the Cottonian Library. The priory lands have had various possessors. The site and entire fabric of the Ch., together with all its appurtenances, were granted in 1540 for the general use of the parish. Up to this time the western part of the nave alone had served as the parish church, the eastern portion and the choir being reserved entirely for the canons. Various works of generally well- directed restoration have been carried on under the direction of Garbett of Winchester and Edmund Ferrey, and since their death, of Mr. Edgar Bur¬ ton. The Ch. is for the most part of two widely different periods, Norm, and late Perp., both of which afford excellent specimens of their respec¬ tive styles. The outline is somewhat disappointing, the single, inadequate western tower, without a central tower, and the slight projection of the transepts, giving it much of a parochial character. “ Christchurch, of all churches in the world, asks for a central tower, and does not get it.”— Freeman. That a central tower was designed is obvious from the great piers of the lantern, but whether it was ever carried up at all is uncertain. No documentary evidence exists on the point, but a consistent tradition asserts that the tower fell at an early period, destroying the vaulted roof of the nave. A church with central tower and spire is represented on a shield above the door of Prior Draper’s Chapel, on a boss above the reredos, and on the chapter seal. How much this great church loses externally by the want of it, can be seen by a com¬ parison with its smaller neighbour at Wimborne. The building, how¬ ever, affords one of the best remain¬ ing examples of the union of a monastic and a parochial church. The single "VV. Tower (120 ft. high) is good solid late Perp., and would have been handsome for an ordinnry Perp. town Ch., while it is quite inadequate for the vast building to 170 Route 13 .— Christchurch. which it is annexed. In a wall over the huge W. window is a figure of our Lord in benediction crowned with thorns. The tower, as at several other monastic churches, (Furness, Shrewsbury, Crowland, &c.), was completed not long before the Dissolution. There is a grand view from the summit. The most interesting external part of the Cli. is the Exterior of the N. Transept.with its beautiful semicircular, arcaded turret, one of the most graceful Norm, works in England. But the whole of the exterior will repay intelligent ex¬ amination. The visitor enters by a very grand Porch, which is on the N. or town side of the Ch. (the priory buildings were on the S. side). It is fine E. E., and of very unusual size, projecting more than 40 ft., and rising nearly to the parapet of the main building. This porch has been beautifully restored, and paved with encaustic tiles; the vaulting, which had been destroyed, has been replaced; and the Purbeck marble shafts made good and polished. The upper story may probably have served as a muniment- room, or for the school which was attached to the priory from a very early period. Remark especially the recessed arch opening to the Oh., and the ornament in the tympanum. A figure of our Lord no doubt occupied the central space. The windows and buttresses of the N. aisle are E. E., but the rest is of the original Norm, work with stone vaulting. The Nave, of 7 bays, which now serves as the parish Ch.,is Norm, to the top of the triforium; the clere¬ story above is E. E., and the stucco vaulting is modern. The Norm, portion is very probably the work of Ralph Flambard, the iniquitous minister of Rufus, called by Peter of Blois “ omnium virorum in terra eupidissimus et pessimus .” He is said to have been Dean of Christ¬ church before his elevation to the bishopric of Durham, and is known to have rebuilt the whole of the church and conventual buildings. According to the account, he swept away no less than ten small churches in one ch.-yd. to make room for his great building. The nave of Durham Cathedral, also built by Flambard , should be compared throughout, though the priority of date still remains uncertain. The S. Aisle retains its original stone vaulting, and has a fine Norm, arcade running the whole length of the wall, above which are Dec. windows, restored by Ferrey. The Monks’ door at the W., and the curious Prior’s door, very French in its character, at the E. end of the S. aisle, mark the positions of the cloisters. At the W. end the stairs which led to the dormitory remain in the depth of the wall, and a stoup opposite. Under the tower is a fine modern font, a copy of the original one, which still exists, much mutilated, in the N. chancel aisle. Here is also a memorial to Shelley the poet and his wife, placed here by their son, Sir Percy F. Shelley of Boscombe, by Weelces, A.R.A. The body of Shelley, relaxed in death, with sea¬ weed fluug over the arm, is held on the knees of his wife, who bends over it. Below are well- known lines from his own ‘ Adonais.’ The monument (though beauti¬ fully executed) is in the worst pos¬ sible taste, being painfully sug¬ gestive of an Italian pieta, where the Virgin supports the body of the Saviour, and is entirely opposed to the real facts of the poet’s death. The tracery of the great W. window was restored in 1860. It is filled with stained glass by Lavers and Barraud , illustrating the Te Deum. The N. Transept is perhaps earlier 171 Bout e 13 .— Christchurch. than the Norm, work of the nave, and has small circular arches with plain soffetes opening into the aisle. The roof here is modern, by E. Ferrey. The S. Transept has Perp. clustered pilas¬ ters at the angles, and just within the opening to the nave. The upper part is cut off by a modern flat roof. The stone vault was barbarously destroyed between 1788 and 1820. Some of the bosses remain in the N. chancel aisle. The arch west¬ ward into the aisle is E. E.; that opposite is Perp., with “ W. E.,” the initials of William Eyre, chosen prior in 1502, on the side panelling. Each transept had a Norm, apsidal chapel to the E. That in the S, transept remains; that to the N. has given place to two early Dec. chantries, erected by the Monta- cutes. Each transept stands on a Norm, crypt; that to the N. was once full of human bones, now removed ; and there are rooms over the chapels. A very rich Rood-screen (c. 1370, restored by Ferrey in 1848) divides the nave from the choir of the canons, which formerly included the first bay of the nave. After the fall of the central tower, of which the huge E. gable of the nave preserves some portions—two of the lantern windows may be seen between the vault and the timber roof of the choir—the ritual and architectural choirs were made to correspond, and the rood-screen was erected. This is throughout late Perp., with the ini¬ tials of Prior Eyre on the bosses of the roof, indicating, no doubt, that much of the new work was com¬ pleted in his time. This part of the Ch. is very lofty and fine, and de¬ serves careful attention. The rich groined roof, divided into 4 bays, has remarkable lantern-like corbels. Observe the manner and positions in which the colouring (much of which remains) was introduced, on the capitals of the slender pilasters run¬ ning up to the roof between the windows, on the figures under the brackets, on the roof bosses, and in the quatrefoils of the panels. The western part of the choir retains the ancient stalls (c. 1500), the style of which verges on the cinquecento. The great height of the high altar above the nave, and the lowness of the Lady Chapel altar, which retains its stone slab in position, should be observed. This slab is very interest¬ ing, ns having two sets of consecra¬ tion crosses, first as the high altar, and secondly when it was re-dedi¬ cated for the Lady Chapel. The present altar-table was, according to its inscription, “ made and presented to this church by Augustus Welby Pugin, a.d. 1831.” It is not a good specimen of the taste of its donor. Over the altar rises a most re¬ markable Reredos, one of the same type as those of Winchester, St. Albans, and St. Saviour’s, South¬ wark. It represents the stem of Jesse, who lies asleep above the altar, whilst a vine-stem proceeds upwards from him, and ramifies into the various niches, each of which has its statue. In the central com¬ partment is the Adoration of the Kings, in which is to be remarked a very curious peculiarity. The Virgin is represented reclining nearly at full length, and holding the Holy Child upright, St. Joseph leaning over her. The king, who is making his offering, almost crouches on the ground. The figures of David and Solomon, on either side of that of Jesse, should be noticed. The de¬ sign of the whole screen is better than its execution, but its preserva¬ tion is very remarkable. On the N. side of the altar is the Chapel built for her own last resting-place by Margaret, Countess of Salisbury, daughter of George Duke of Clarence (brother of Ed¬ ward IV.), and grand-daughter of Richard Neville the King-maker, Earl of Warwick and Salisbury. 172 Route 13 .— Christchurch. The Countess was the mother of Reginald Pole, and was involved in the catastrophe which destroyed so many of her family. She was attainted without trial in 1539, and after being confined for more than two years was beheaded within the Tower, May 27, 1541, when 70 years old, and buried in the chapel of St. Peter ad Yincula there. When the Commissioners for the suppres¬ sion of monastic houses visited Christchurch in the December after her death, they “ found a chapel and a monumet curiosly made of cane [Caen] stone, pr’pared by the late mother of Reynolde Pole for herre buriall, which we have causyd to be dcfacyd and all the Armis and Badgis to be delete.” The chapel is of course late Perp., indicating the approach of the “ Renaissance ” in its details, which are, however, not so Italian as those of the Delaware tomb in Boxgrove Ch., nearly of the same date. (See H.Bk. for Sussex.) The coats-of-arms in the fan-tracery roof are all defaced, but traces of the “ silver saltire upon martial red” of the Nevilles may still be de¬ tected by the heraldic eye. Some¬ what less damage has been done to the religious emblems, including a representation of the Holy Trinity on the central boss, with the countess kneeling. Her motto, “ Spes mea in Deo est ” is still legible below. On the S. side of the altar is the tomb, with recumbent effigies, in very bad taste, of the Countess of Malmesbury (d. 1876). The right of the Earl to erect this monument in memory of his late wife was dis¬ puted by the Earl of Loudoun as legal descendant and heir of Mar¬ garet, Countess of Salisbury, and owner of the Salisbury Chapel, at a Consistorial Court at Winchester Cathedral, in 1877, but the objection was not allowed. Further S. of the altar is a monu¬ ment by Flaxman (removed from Salisbury) for the Viscountess Fitz- liarris (d. 1815). She is seated and instructing her children. Below it are two ancient tombs, probably those of priors, one coped and the other plain, with a foliated cross. The choir is enclosed with a stone wall. In the N. Choir Aisle, a Perp. chapel, W. of that of the Countess of Salisbury, is not improved by a modern inscription to John Cook, Esq., placed above the door. Fur¬ ther W., and E. of the N. transept, is a small chapel of the Dec. period, with a very richly groined roof. Here also is an indifferent monu¬ ment by Chantrey for John Barnes of Fincliley (d. 1815). In a small chapel at the E. end of the N. choir aisle is a I5th-centy. altar-tomb with alabaster effigies, said to be those of Sir John Chy- dioke of Chydioke in Dorsetshire, and his wife. The figures are ex¬ cellent specimens of armour and costume. Sir John Chydioke is said to have fallen during the Wars of the Roses. Both figures retain much of their colour, but are sadly mutilated. Scrapings from the Chydioke tomb used to be preserved as having great medicinal value! Outside this chapel, and on the floor nearer the choir, are the grave- slabs of Prior Eyre (d. 1520) and of his mother, Joanna Cockrell. This is the prior whose initials. W. E., appear on the panelling and roof of the choir. In the S. Choir Aisle is the chan¬ try chapel of Prior Draper, with the date, 1529, and his initials J. D., and a shield with a church, over the door ; the details are somewhat Italian. In it is a fine piscina. John Draper, Bp. of Neapolis and suffragan of Winchester, was the “ honest con¬ formable person ” who resigned the priory to Henry VIII.’s commis¬ sioners, and who, dying at Somerford Grange, in 1552, was buried in or near this chapel, which he had built Botite 13 .—Christ church. 173 iii his lifetime. His grave-slab, which lay originally in the N. transept, now forms part of the pavement in front of it. On the N. side of this aisle is the chantry of Robert Hary (d. 1525), with his rebus, R. with a hare below it. On the cornice is the inscription : “The Lord King of blis have mercy on him that let make this; the which was me Robert Hary, 1525.” Two sculptured fragments have been placed on brackets in this part of the aisle. One apparently repre¬ sents the administration of the via¬ ticum, the other is the Coronation of the Virgin. At the corner of the aisle, near the entrance from the transept, is a chapel of Norm, character, which has been much altered. Returning to the extreme E. end of the Ch., we enter the Lady Chapel, completed before 1405, very rich Perp., with a groined vault. At the E. end are the remains of a screen, once of unusual splendour; the stone altar still exists; and under the windows is a rich Perp. arcading. The altar-tombs in the N. and S. walls are said to be those of Sir Thomas West, “ captain of the castle of Christchurch ” (d. 1405), and of his mother. The arcade-work of the former is very remarkable, though apparently of later date than his death. The colours hung up here are those of “the Loyal Christchurch Volunteers” during the French war. Over the Lady Chapel is an apart¬ ment called St. Michael’s Loft, ap¬ proached by a winding staircase from outside ilie Ch., and used as a schoolroom since the middle of the 17tli centy. On a tombstone in the eh.-yd., on the rt. of the path to the N. porch, is a mysterious inscription :— “ We were not slayne, but raysu— Raysd not to life, But to be buried twice By men of strife. What rest could tli’ living have When dead had none ? Atrree amongst you : Heere we ten are one. Hen. Rogers, died Aprill 17, 1641. I. R.” It is supposed that coffins were dug up, for the lead, during the Civil War, and that the remains of several were interred in one grave. W. of the Ch. is the Priory, with a long stretch of thick wall over¬ grown with ferns. This, with some walls, two round towers to the S., and a fragment of an old bridge leading to the meadow beyond, is all that now remains of the do¬ mestic buildings. The mill is men¬ tioned in Domesday. The Priory (the Misses Tighe), although per¬ haps built out of portions of the ruins, contains nothing worth special notice. The Priory was once in¬ habited by the Duke of Orleans, afterwards King Loui3 Philippe. After the Ch. the tourist should \isit the *Norman House on the bank of the stream opposite to and in the grounds of, the King’s Arms Hotel. This house was evidently in immediate connexion with the Castle, and the house may have served as theresidence of its governor. It stands on a branch of the Avon, which is made to serve as a mill- stream for the priory (the mill is lower down) and as a moat for the defence of the castle. The house itself (now little more than a shell) is of late Norm, character (c. 1150). It is about 70 ft. long by 24 broad. The ground-floor has a number of loopholes. Part of the stone stair¬ case remains, ascending to the upper floor, where was the principal apart¬ ment, apparently undivided. Near the centre of the E. wall, next the river, is a large fire-place, with a round chimney-shaft. The small tower overhanging the river may perhaps have served as a flank. 174 j Route 13.— Southboiirne-on-Sea. The Castle, close by, is the pro¬ perty of the Corporation. It was probably built by Baldwin de Bed- vers (c. 1100). The mound, with the shell of the Keep, remains, and affords a fine view of the great Ch. on its N. side, and of the estuary of the Avon, looking towards the Needles. Hart’s Museum, in High Street (admission Is.), contains one of the best local ornithological collections in the kingdom, and ought not to be passed over. The birds were nearly all shot in the neighbourhood, and are mounted with great skill and taste. A Great Bustard here was shot as late as Jan. 10, 1880, at Handley, in Dorsetshire. Excursions. (а) Southbourne-on-Sea, 1§ m. by road from Christchurch (for a pedes¬ trian a shorter and prettier way is by the ferry), is a rising watering-place, which from its healthy situation has promise of a considerable future. It is a favourite place for preparatory schools. It has a Pier and Espla¬ nade, and a good but unfinished Ch. (б) Passing down a lane to the W. of the Ch., you come to the ferry over the Stour, whence there is a pleasant walk of about 2 m. on the W. of the harbour to Hengistbury Head, the tract of high land form¬ ing the W. side of Christchurch Bay. This is entirely a mass of ironstone, of which the Priory Church and the Castle are partly built, and is the only point between Lyming- ton and Poole where any hard stony masses occur in the cliffs. The stone here consists of 5 layers of large ferruginous concretions, somewhat like the septaria of the London clay, which used formerly to be conveyed to Wales for smelting. The entire headland is cut off, from the sea to the Stour, by a broad trench with a lofty single Vallum. There are 3 entrances. Some irre¬ gular mounds flank the one nearest Christchurch; and a small barrow or two within might perhaps repay examination. The whole work is elaborate, and it perhaps formed one of the defences of the earliest Saxon colonists. Its name, Hengist¬ bury, seems a mere modern cor¬ ruption of “Pledenes buria,” by which it is mentioned in a charter of De Redvers. The headland itself is a broad tract of ground, covered with heather and rough herbage. From it a grand sea view is com¬ manded, with the Isle of Wight on one side, and Purbeck on the other. Below, N., is the great Priory Church, with the river windings, and a wide landscape N.E., stretching far into the New Forest. (c) St. Catharine’s Hill, about 2 m. N. of Christchurch, should be visited for the sake of its fine view. It is a mass of rolled gravel, much of which is exposed in white patches, where the hill-sides have been cut for turf. On the W. side of the hill are traces of two intrench- ments, the N. circular, the S. square, and 4 circular mounds (watch- towers ?) overlook the country from different parts of the hill. The Avon is seen winding through its broad green meadows below, and beyond it a wooded country with low elevations stretches away N. Lumps of clay marked with a cross, encaustic tiles, and fragments of Purbeck marble are found in the centre of the southern camp, and excavations made in 1862 laid bare the foundation of a chapel dedi¬ cated to St. Catharine (whence the name of the hill), founded in the 14th centy., but dismantled at the Reformation ; it was only 45 ft. 6 in. by 30 ft. 4 in. The pedestrian may descend through steep fir woods into the Poole and Bournemouth road, and return home by the hamlet Route 13.— Bournemouth. 175 of Iford. Not far from this is Holdenhurst Ch., the mother church of the greater part of Bournemouth, but it was rebuilt in 1834, and is of little interest. Plantations of Scotch fir are continued almost all the way to Bournemouth. They are the most extensive in the S. of England. Plots of 20 or 30 acres are sold at a time, for props in coal-mines and similar purposes. (cl) The archaeologist should make a point of visiting the Church of *Sopley, on 1. bank of the Avon, about 2rr m. N. from Christchurch, or 1J E. from Hum Stat., on the line to Bingwood. Near the road, by the hamlet of Wirikton , is some lovely quiet river scenery. The reach below Sopley should be especi¬ ally noticed; where the broad full stream is overhung by oaks, and bordered by green meadows. Sop- ley Ch. belonged to the priory of Christchurch, and the monastic infirmary is traditionally said to have been placed here. The Ch., cruciform, with a low W. tower and spire, is for the most part E. E., but has had extensive Perp. alterations. There is a deep N. porch, projecting as far as the transept, above which is a rude figure of St. Michael, with wings and cross, standing on a head-shaped corbel. The nave is Perp., with an E. E. chancel arch. The corbels of the roof have figures playing the rebeck, and the double pipes, or cornemuse. The N. tran¬ sept has a triple E. E. window toward the E., and on either side projecting brackets with heads. In the N. wall is an aumbry, and in the E. a piscina. The arch into the S. aisle of nave is E. E. In the S. transept is a squint. The E. E. chancel is small and narrow, with lancets, and a low-side window. Under the tower lie two monastic figures of stone, with foliage and canopies of late E. E. character. Close below is the mill of tfio monks. Salmon are plentiful in the river. About 2 m. above Sopley is Tyrrel’s Ford, where the supposed slayer of the Bed King is said to have ridden through the Avon on his way to Poole. Close by is Avon Tyrrel, and the blacksmith’s forge, built on the site of the one where the knight’s horse is said to have been shod, for which act a yearly fine of 3 1. 10s. is still paid to the Crown. 106 m., Pokesdown Stat., in a poor suburb. 106J m., Boscombe Stat., the eastern suburb of Bournemouth, to be described later on. 107£ m., BOURNEMOUTH EAST Stat. This Stat. is a handsome and convenient building (1884), and is approached by Holdenhurst Hoad, which, being continued by Bath Road, leads straight to the Pier (1 m.). The line is extended by a long circuit round the town, through the Talbot Woods, to 110J Ill., BOURNEMOUTH WEST Stat. This Stat., which is small and inconvenient, is at the top of the West Hill, close to the Poole Road, and about the same distance as the East Stat. (nearly 1 m.) from the Pier. The West Stat. is also the terminus of the Somerset and Dorset Rly., vid Templecombe to Bath, by which direct access is gained to Bath, Bristol, Birmingham, and the entire Midland system. Trains for Poole, Dorchester, and Weymouth usually start from it, though some pass over a loop direct from the East Stat. to Branksome Stat. on the line to Poole. 176 Route 13.— Bournemouth. BOURNEMOUTH. History and General Descrip¬ tion. Bournemouth was only incor¬ porated in 1890. It is the youngest of all the greater English watering- places, and has, naturally, no history beyond that of its own remarkable growth. Until well into the present century it was a place so solitary as actually to be the site of a duck- decoy, though the name, Burne- mouth, in the parish of Holdenhurst, is marked in the map of Camden’s Britannia, c. 1610. The centre of the town is a valley, through which the Bou?'ne, a mere brook from Kingston Heath, 6 m. N., finds its way through an open chine to the sea. The late Mr. L. D. G. Tregon- well, of Cranborne in Dorset, who owned most of the land, planted the valley and much of the adjoining coast with Austrian and other pines, formed a decoy for wild-fowl, and built himself a shooting-lodge here, on the site where now is the Royal Exeter Hotel. In 1838 Sir George Tapps-Jervis, father of the late Sir G. W. E. Tapps-Gervis-Mevrick, of Hinton Admiral [ante), who owned the land on the East Cliff founded the Bath Hotel, and employed the architect, Benjamin Ferrey (a native of Christchurch), to lay out the land for building purposes. For some time the place possessed scarcely any regular streets or roads, but only avenues cut through the pine- woods, in which villas of nondescript architecture were hidden from their nearest neighbours. The medical profession was not slow to discover the great sanitary advantages of the place, not only from its unusually favoured climate, but from the health-giving properties, especially for pulmonary diseases, of the pine-woods, with the incense of which the air is thoroughly impreg¬ nated. The great growth of the town has of course changed this character, though efforts are being made to preserve as much of it as possible by the replanting of pines to compensate for those destroyed by streets, and to keep frequent open spaces and shaded walks by the road¬ sides. It still has, and probably always will have, far more wood¬ land within its boundaries than any other large town in England. The Climate is unusually mild and favourable, varying only on the average from about 45 0 in January to 72 0 in J uly ; and hence may be considered as a continuous health- resort, not dependent on short seasons of either summer or winter. Hotels, boarding-houses, sanatoriums, and lodgings abound in every part, and of late years the town has greatly grown in favour as a place of permanent residence, especially on the West Cliff, in which direction the better class of houses are chiefly extending. Shops are mainly confined to one line, the Old Christchurch Road (virtually the High Street of the town), in which is the Arcade; the Square, and the Commercial Road, which leads to the West Stat. Cottages are hardly to be seen anywhere, the working classes mostly living some distance out at Moordown or WintoU on the Wimborne Road, or in the eastern suburbs of Boscombe and Pokes- down. The Drainage of the town and its water-supply are said to be good, and indeed it has every natural advantage for both. The lighting is exceptionally poor for a town of the size, and the roads are mostly left in total darkness after midnight. Bournemouth is situated in a bay, facing S., having for its W. boundary Purbeck Island, and, for its E., Hengistbury Head and the Needles. The view seawards includes the W. end of the Isle of Wight and the Needles to the 1 ., and on the rt. the eastern promontory of Purbeck Island, with Old Harry, a pinnacle of chalk detached from the main cliffs; between Purbeck and the mainland may be distinguished the entrance to Poole Harbour. On the top of the soft sandstone cliffs, from Boscombe Chine (E.) to Durley Chine (W.), a distance of 2 m., run well-kept roads, reserved o*j /// a f p It ■n / T'-t* r f f 1 V) _ ) t-1 177 Boute 13.— Bournemouth. for pedestrians or wheeled-chairs, and provided with shelters and seats. The faces also of the cliffs are scored with steps and foot-paths, which give access to the shore, but are too steep and exposed for in¬ valids. The little river Bourne, from which the place takes its name, is a shallow stream, making its way through the hollow between the two hills ; this hollow has been turned into pretty and sheltered Public Gardens, which, with the cliff roads, form a marked feature of the town, taking the place of the Esplanade at most other sea-resorts ; they extend'from the Pier to the Square, and inland for upwards of a mile beyond it. There is an Omnibus service from Pokesdown, the eastern suburb, to the County Boundary, W., nearly 4 m. An electric tramway is pro¬ jected. The bathing is good, the tides being slight, and the sands safe, firm, and extensive. The usual sea-side attractions are of course provided, though not—some persons may find this an advantage— so abundantly as elsewhere. But Bournemouth possesses one special feature in the excellent Municipal Band (30-40 performers), provided by the town at a cost of about 50001. a year, under the direction of Mr. Dan. Godfrey, jun., which plays on the pier twice a day in fine weather, and in the afternoon and evening in the Summer and Winter Gardens, where the performances are varied by vocal music, &c. During the winter months excellent and popular symphony concerts are given on Monday and Thursday afternoons (admission Is.). There are golf-links (18 holes, a short, easy course), and a cricket ground, in Meyrick Park on the W. of the Wimborne Road. There is also a cricket and football ground in Dean Park. Lawn-tennis courts are provided in many of the public gardens. [I/an f s.] The best sea-fishing is inside Poole Harbour. The trout and salmon- fisliing of the Avon is strictly pre¬ served; but bottom-fishing can be had at Muscliffe , on the Stour, 3 m. N. The neighbourhood abounds with attractive places for excursions (see Excursions, post). Bournemouth possesses no public buildings worth visiting, except its Churches, which are numer¬ ous, and offer a large study in modern ecclesiastical architecture. Among them are St. Peter’s, a fine Ch., with a beautiful churchyard in the centre of the town (by G. E. Street , R.A.) ; Holy Trinity (by O. J. Ferguson); St. Michael’s and All Angels (by R. Norman Shaw , R.A.); St. Stephen’s (by J. L. Pearson , R.A.); St. Augustine’s (by Butter¬ field) ; St. Swithin’s (by R. Norman Shaw, R.A.); St. Clement’s (by J. 1). Sedding); and St. John’s, Boscombe (by C. T. Miles). The R. C. Oratory of the Sacred Heart (by II. Clutton); the Richmond Hill Congregational Chapel near the Public Gardens, and St. Andrew’s (Presbyterian) may also be men¬ tioned. The lofty - terraced cli.-yd. of St. Peter’s is, though close to the main street (behind the arcade), probably the loveliest and most striking in all England. Mary Shelley, the 2nd wife of the poet, is buried here. There is a cross, as well as a stained window (E. end of S. aisle), to the memory of John Iveble, who died at Bournemouth on Good Friday, 1868, but is buried at Hursley (Rte. 6, Excursions from Winchester). The Pier (nearly 300 yds. in length) is at the centre of the coast line included in the town, and at the mouth of the old chine round which Bournemouth has sprung up. The first pier was only opened in 1861, rebuilt in 1880, and lengthened since. N 178 Boute 13.— Boscombe. The Bath Hotel , in a hue situation above the Pier, is unique among hotels for the very valuable collec¬ tion of pictures, statuary, and china with which it is adorned. Lord Beaconsfield held three Cabinet Councils in this hotel during his illness in 1879. Suburbs of Bournemouth, the Chines, &c. The growth of Bournemouth has rivalled in rapidity, while totally differing in character from, that of the northern industrial towns, such as Barrow and Middlesbrough. It now includes Branksome (in Dorset), and Westbourne W., and Boscombe, Pokesdown, and Springbourne, E., and it looks as if before many years there would be a continuous line of houses for 10 m., from Poole to Christchurch. The boundary be¬ tween Hants and Dorset touches the coast between Alum and Brank¬ some Chines, rather more than 1 m. W. of the Pier. The population, which 70 years ago was 20 or 30, and even in 1870 only 7000, was 37,781 in 1891, and may be estimated now at nearly 50,000. Boscombe is 1| m. E. of the Pier, and can be reached by the Cliff Path or the shore. Omnibuses also run to it and Pokesdown along the Christchurch Load. It has two huge hotels, the Boscombe Chine and the Burlington , two large Churches, and a Pier of its own, at which tlie Isle of Wight and Swanage steamers call. Bos¬ combe Chine is nearly spoilt by building; it is now spanned by a wooden bridge. Pokesdown, further E. (Puck’s or Pixies Down), is an uninteresting suburb. The Ch. is by Street , R.A. Southbourne (see Christchurch, Excursions ) is about 2 m. E. of Boscombe. Omnibuses run to it in summer from the Square. Taking the Cliff Path westwards from the Bournemouth Pier and passing the conspicuous Highclijfe Hotel on a lofty point, we first reach Durley Chine, which is laid out in walks with shelters, and at the foot of which are bathing-machines; next Middle Chine, which is still left wild; and then Alum Chine, a much larger one, winding inland to West- bourne, a new district of villas, S. of the Poole Road. Beyond the county boundary is Branksome Chine, one of the largest and most pictur¬ esque, especially in the rhododen¬ dron season. Overlooking it is Bran h- some Tower , charmingly situated, now made into a residential hotel. The part above is called Branksome Park. There is a Stat. at Branksome on the Poole line. Beyond the Chine are the Canford Cliffs. Next is Sugar-loaf Chine, where the contorted stratification should be noticed; then the small Flag-Head Chine,and Poole Head, whence the cliffs decline into a ridge of sand forming a southern breakwater to Poole Harbour. Poole Harbour itself, in which are Branlc- seci Island and its Castle (see H.Bh. Dorset ) is very pictur¬ esque, especially in the more misty lights, the outline being singularly broken in contour, but the sur¬ rounding hills are low. A return may be made by the pretty village of Parkstone, where there is a Stat. on the Poole line. Parkstone is now almost a suburb of Bourne¬ mouth. It has a fine but unfinished Ch. by J. L. Pearson , B.A. Moordown Ch. (unfinished), 2 m. N., was begun by G. E. Street, R.A., and added to by Sir A. W. Blom- field, A.R.A Excursions from Bournemouth. (a) Sea-trips. There are two Steamboat Companies. Some of their vessels are large and good; they start from the Pier, and gener¬ ally also call at Boscombe Pier. In 179 Route 14.— Holmsley. summer tlicre are 3 or 4 boats daily to Swanage (8 m.), and one at least to the Isle of Wight, Weymouth, Cherbourg, &c. An excellent round can bo made by taking the boat to Swanage, and thence by train or char-a-banc to Corfe Castle (6 m.); returning by train via Wareham , which is an interesting old town. For these places the H.Bk. for Dorset should be used. (b) The New Forest. Waggon¬ ettes and coaches leave the Square daily in summer for some point in the New Forest, Lyndhurst (17 m.), Mark Ash, Rufus Stone, &c. (see Rte. 14). (c) The beautiful minster of Wimborne is only 10^ m. by train from the West Stat. Poole, which is a quaint old sea-port, though with no great object of interest, is about half-way. (See II.Bk. Dorset.') (d ) The noble Priory Ch. of Christchurch (ante) is visited by great numbers of excursionists from Bournemouth. It can be reached on foot along the cliffs (about 5 m.). Visitors should, if interested in sport, prolong the excursion by walking, driving, or rowing to the Black House at the mouth of the Avon, in order to see the river netted for salmon, when the higii tide turns. The Museum is also worth a visit for its fine collection of British birds. Omnibuses run to it through Boscombe, and there are frequent trains from both Stats. In the neighbourhood of Christchurch are Hengistbury Head , with a splendid view, and the interesting Ch. of Sopley, higher up the Avon. (e) Talbot Village, 3 m. N., up the course of the Bourne, afiords a pretty walk. The so-called Talbot Woods, on rt., bisected by the rly. between the two Stats., are rather a park, and under strict regulations. ROUTE 14. THE NEW FOREST, (LYNDHURST, BROCKENHURST, BEAULIEU ABBEY)- The S. W. Rly. has four stations properly in the Forest, namely, 86 m. from London, Lyndhurst Boad Stat., 2j m. from Lyndhurst , the capital of the Forest. 88 f m., Beaulieu Boad Stat., the nearest for Beaulieu Abbey, but far from any village, and from the best parts of the Forest. 92J m., Brockenhurst Stat., an important Forest centre, the junc¬ tion for Bournemouth and for Lymington. For all these stations see also Rte. 13. 97 m., Holmsley Stat., on the Weymouth line only, which is on the S.W. border of the Forest, but is the nearest for Burley and some of the oldest woods. The New Forest is much visited by excursionists from Southampton, Lymington, Ringwood, and especi¬ ally Bournemouth, from the last of which places waggonettes start daily in summer for one or other of the prin¬ cipal tourist points. But a tourist wishing really to explore the Forest should stay a few nights at either Lyndhurst , its tiny “capital,” or Brockenhurst. Stony Cross, 4 m. N.W. of Lyndhurst, has a good inn and some lodgings, and may be convenient for the northern portion. The best book on the Forest is an excellent monograph by J. R. Wise (London, Sotheran; Southampton, Gilbert). The whole of the triangle be¬ tween the Southampton Water, the n 2 180 Route 14 .—New Forest. Avon river, ancl the border of Wilt¬ shire, seems to have been a densely wooded district from the earliest period. It is in all probability the “ Natan learja ,” the “ Leas of Nate,” of the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle, which asserts that the country was first so named after a battle in the year 508, of which Netley Marsh (near Redbridge, Rte. 13, not to be confused with Netley on Southamp¬ ton Water) is assigned as the site, when Cerdic and Cynric conquered the British chief Natanleod (Ambro- sius).— Dr. Guest. The name by which it was known during the later Saxon period was Ytene, or Ythene, the etymology of which is uncer¬ tain. Its present name, “ the New Forest,” dates of course from the Norman Conquest, when the entire district w T as afforested. Fictile ves¬ sels of the Roman period have been found in different parts of the forest, and the site of a kiln fixed ; it is supposed, therefore, that more than one pottery must have existed on the spot. No traces of ancient buildings have, however, been found. The formation of the New Forest, in 1079, just thirteen years after the battle of Hastings, is like the devastation of Northumberland, generally fixed upon as one of the most prominent instances of the Conqueror’s despotic cruelty. An examination, however, o£ the Domes¬ day record, in which the manors contained in each hundred are duly inserted, with their respective values at the time of the Confessor’s death, and after their afforestation by William, proves that the ordinary accounts of wanton destruction are not to be received without consider¬ able modification. The Anglo- Saxon Chronicler, who states that he was the Conqueror’s contempo¬ rary, says, “He planted a great preserve for deer (He screftc mycel deor frith), and he laid down laws there¬ with, that whosoever should slay hart or hind should be blinded. He forbade the harts and also the boars to be killed. As greatly did he love the tall deer as if he were their father.” The Norman kings, as w r e know from their records, were as avari¬ cious as they were tyrannical, and would not willingly sacrifice their revenue even for the sake of their sport. Hence they turned to their own use the thickly wooded parts of the district, without driving away the inhabitants of the rest, aud left the churches untouched, except, perhaps, a few that may have been likely to injure the hunting. Many of the churches in the forest still retain portions of un¬ doubted early work, and we know that soon after the afforestation, a Ch. was built at Boldre, in the very wildest part of the forest, and another at Iiordle. The Domesday record, moreover, proves that, al¬ though 30 manors in the very heart of the district ceased to be culti¬ vated after the afforestation, the great majority continued in tillage as before. Among the earliest writers who bring specific charges of absolutely wanton devastation against William are William of Jumicges and Or- deric Yitalis, who wrote 50 years or more after his death. After them the story increases in horrors and in minute detail, until at last Kuygliton, in the 14tli cent., informs us that 22 mother churches, with “ villas,” chapels, and manors, and, according to some, 52 parish churches, were destroyed and removed during the formation of the forest. Orderic had already asserted, what all his successors copied from him, that before the expulsion of the inhabi¬ tants the district was a very popu¬ lous one, covered with farms and fertile fields, from which abundant 1S1 Route 14 .—New Forest. supplies were conveyed to the city of Winchester. The geology of the New Forest shows that this cannot have been the case: and in the matter of the destroyed churches, it is enough to say that no trace or foundation of any one of them has ever been discovered, while the only two churches mentioned in Domes¬ day, Milford and Brockenhurst, stand to this day. The real griev¬ ance was the subjection of the entire district to the savage forest law jof the Normans, a law which regarded the life of a stag, in the forest, as of far more value than that of a peasant, and naturally brought all sorts of oppression and cruelty in its train. Much of the New Forest had been a royal hunting- ground in earlier times; but al¬ though the Saxon monarclis de¬ lighted in the chase, their forest laws never approached the severity of those introduced by the Normans. Their forest code, aggravating here the calamities resulting from the Conquest in every part of England, was the main cause of the bad eminence given to the New Forest in the stories of the chroniclers; and the deaths of the Conqueror’s two sons, William and Richard, within its bounds, supplied fresh reasons fur enlarging on the cruel¬ ties supposed to have occurred at its formation. Their deaths were naturally regarded by the conquered race as divine judgments. All the relics of Saxon heathendom which lingered under the shadows of the great forest oaks awoke to new life ; and it was commonly thought that the whole district was the especial haunt of evil spirits, of the arch fiend himself, and of the dwarfs and mischievous elves—the “ malfees ” of the rhyming chroniclers. For the story of the Red King’s death, see Stony Cross (post). As formed by William, the forest is supposed to have had an area of GO,000 acres, which was increased to 92,000 by his successors ( Wise), or to 140,000 according to others; but very large portions, both in the central parts and on the borders, have been alienated and disafforested at different times, and projects have been entertained of enclosing the whole. Defoe proposed to colonise the forest with the Palatine refugees from the banks of the Rhine; and the removal of the deer, in 1851, was avowedly meant as the first step to reducing what woodland still exists, either to arable and pasture or to new “intakes” (plantations). The present boundaries of the forest are comprised within a triangle formed by Calshot Castle on the E.; the Black Hill on the Wiltshire bor¬ der, N.W.; and Durley Chine, within 2 m. of Bournemouth, S.W. The highest points, on the Stony Cross ridge, are about 370 ft. above the sea. The scenery within this district, although wild and sylvan, where not marred by inclosures—open heaths spreading out where the oaks and beeches cease—presents strong local variations. The corner towards the Southampton Water and the Beau¬ lieu river contains some fine trees, and has a good sea-border, an im¬ portant element in the views. This part of the forest is generally called the most picturesque, a judgment first pronounced by Gilpin (‘ Forest Scenery ’), and echoed by his successors. It may be doubted, however, whether some parts of the district N. of the Rly., where heath is less predominant, are not better entitled to this distinction. About Boldre and Brockenhurst the trees close in thickly, and afford some excellent woody scenes. Farther W., and toward the coast, there is much fir plantation; but the most remarkable portions of the forest are those stretching N. from Lyndhurst towards Minstead, and thence W. to Ringwood. This part is the least affected by modern changes, always excepting the loss of 182 Houte 14 .—-New Forest. most of the deer. The wide extent of the scenes, the holts and deep woods clustering down the hillsides towards the valleys below, the stretches of open heath, and the absolute want of any background save that afforded by the forest itself, thus preventing the intrusion of any other association —all combine to carry back the imagination to the old days. ‘ ‘ The best advice which I can give to see the forest,” says Mr. Wise, “ is to follow the course of one of its streams, make it your friend and companion, and go wherever it goes. It will be sure to take you through the greenest valleys, and past the thickest woods, and under the largest trees. No step along with it is ever lost, for it never goes out of its way but in search of some fresh beauty.” The Act of 1868, which threatened to disafforest the whole district, has fortunately been overruled by public opinion, and many spots are to be found where the ancient trees remain untouched in all their mediaeval grandeur. The principal trees of the forest are oak and beech, with yews, hollies, and thorns of noble size, and there is an under-growth of holly and gorse that is very trouble¬ some now it is not browsed down by the deer. There are two kinds of oak in the forest —Quercus pedunculata , with the acorn on a long stalk (the staple tree of the country); and Q. sessijiora, with the fruit stalkless. The oaks for the most part ‘ ‘ have a character peculiar to themselves. They seldom rise into lofty stems, as oaks usually do in richer soils, but their branches, which are more adapted to what the shipbuilders call knees and elbows, are commonly twisted into the most picturesque forms. Besides, the New Forest oak is not so much loaded with foliage as the trees of a richer soil.”— Gilpin . “ Nothing,’’ says Mr. Wilkinson, “ strikes a stranger in the forest more than the absence of animal life. There is hardly a blackbird even on the wing. The cause, doubtless, is want of food. A few black game are found in the wdlder and more unfrequented parts.” The animals now to be found there are foxes, in great plenty ; badgers, but rapidly disappearing; squirrels in thousands; rabbits in equal abun¬ dance; the New Forest pig, the hams of which, properly cured, rival those of Westphalia or Bayonne; and the New Forest pony. The wild pigs, of which so many strange tales have been told, exist only in imagination. Any swine the tourist may happen to catch sight of are only the tame pigs of the villagers, which are regularly turned out dur¬ ing the “ pannage ” month, which begins at the end of September, and lasts for 6 weeks. The bor¬ derers on the forest have the right of doing this by paying a small annual fee in the Steward’s Court at Lyndhurst. The pigs luxuriate on the acorns and beech-mast (the low Latin word baco is no doubt formed from the Teutonic names of the beech, hoc). The Boldrewood walk, W. of Lyndhurst, affords thicker beech woods than any other part of the forest. The New Forest pony —“ no longer a pony, but an ugly galloway with a big head ”—( Wilkinson )—belongs to the original wild breed scattered over the whole of northern Europe, of which the diminutive pony of Shetland and the Hebrides, and that of Dartmoor and Exmoor, are only varieties. It is the “mcmwMS,” or small British horse, which used to figure in the amphitheatres of ancient Koine: and the herds of “ ecjui silvatici ” — wild horses — which the Domesday survey records as existing on various manors throughout the S. of England were no doubt of this breed. An attempt has been made to improve the breed by Arabian horses, which for some years were sent by the Crown into J Route 14 .—New Forest. 183 the forest, but they have lost the action and form for which they were once celebrated, and are still degenerating. Herds of 20 or 30 ponies are occasionally to be seen in the forest. They are to be bought at all the neighbouring fairs, where from 10/. to 15 1. is now the usual price. Since the death of Rufus the forest has not been the scene of any very remarkable event, but notices of its affairs are numerous among the public records. We see from them the ceaseless encroachments of the neighbouring landowners, the cutting down of the timber by the forest officers, who sold it for their own profit, and the complaints of the Navy Commissioners, who found it more difficult to deal with them than with private owners. In 1643 Charles I. mortgaged the forest, with other Crown lands, to Sir R. Spencer and others, but the Parlia¬ ment held possession and made great havoc alike with the oaks and the deer. In consequence, Charles II. issued an order that no deer should in future be killed except in his presence or by a warrant from the master of the buck-hounds, and he seems usually to have visited the forest when in the neighbourhood. During the 18th centy. the de¬ mand for navy timber was very great, and much unlawful destruc¬ tion also occurred, the greatest offenders, according to what appears to be trustworthy local tradition, being the forest officials themselves. They are accused of selling valuable timber at the price of firewood, beside giving 20 “sticks” (so the trunks, when lopped of branches, are called) to the dozen, to their confederates, who had timber-yards at Totton or Lymington, and sold the plunder at its full value to the Dockyard at Portsmouth. Poaching and smuggling were the main occu¬ pations of the poor, debtors aod criminals found a safe refuge, and became “ squatters ” on the waste ; many of their rude wattled huts still remain, now principally occu¬ pied by charcoal-burners, who also did their part in the destruction of the woods ; in short, the whole district gained a lawless character something like Waltham Chase (Rte. 4). No one, however, had any right to interfere with the Crown lands, and things remained much the same until 1831, when the subject of their management was brought before Parliament. About 1850 an official inquiry was made into the state of the New Forest, and in consequence the Deer Removal Act was passed, by which it was provided that the Crown should receive 10,000 acres of land as compensation for its forest rights, and a commission was ap¬ pointed for ascertaining the extent and nature of the rights of pan¬ nage, vert, and turf-cutting, claimed by the various estates and towns in and near the forest. The result has been very unsatisfactory. The officials in charge are stated to have since cut down the woodland on 11,000 acres, and to have condemned 5000 more, “including nearly all the old woods, and constituting the last relic of the virgin woodlands of England,” not only to the great detriment of the commoners, but to the regret of every lover of nature. The subject was brought before the House of Commons in March 1875, apd has been renewed several times since. In the meantime the axe of the destroyer is stayed, a Parliamen¬ tary committee having reported strongly in favour of preserving what still remains of the old woods, and giving unrestricted access thereto. Both red and fallow deer were formerly common in the forest, but they had become comparatively scarce in the southern part by the end of the last century, though they abounded in the northern part till the great reduction made in 1851. They have never been exterminated, 184 Route 14 .— though so far reduced as to do little damage to commoners’ rights. Fallow deer are the most numerous; red deer, of which a few remain, are scarcely to be found except in the wilder part to the north-west; there are also a few of the pretty roe-deer, which are said to have made their way in from Dor¬ setshire. The Queen’s hounds used to hunt the deer in the forest, and on one occasion upwards of 80 mas¬ ters of hounds, about 1500 redcoats, and at least 300 carriages of all sorts assembled at the meet. The New Forest is estimated now to contain about 66,000 acres, one- half of which is private property. Until 1850 it had its Lord Warden, but is now in charge of the Woods and Forests Department. The forest is divided into 9 bailiwicks and 15 walks, two or three of which, becoming somewhat populous, have been now made parishes, and had churches and schools built. The claim to forest rights is generally by an established household, sym¬ bolised by the hearth. Hence when a cottage is removed the hearth is left standing to preserve the right, and may frequently be seen in a garden or held. The gipsies, for the reclama¬ tion of wiiose children a school for¬ merly existed near Fordingbridge, are still numerous. There was once a long train of woodwards, re- garders, foresters, and under-fores** ters, but the number of employes has been greatly reduced. The chief local authority is the Deputy-Sur¬ veyor, who resides at the Queen’s House, Lyndhurst. There is also an Official Yerderer (the Right Hon. Evelyn Ashley), and six verderers elected by the commoners and their officers, who hold a forest court at the Queen’s House every 40 days. The name Lyndhurst (presumably from A.-S. Unde, hyrst — the linden, or lime-tree wood) suggests the idea that the lime-tree was known in some Lyndhurst. parts at least of England in very early days. It is mentioned in the A.-S. lay of the Battle of Brunan- burh, a.d. 937: (“ The board-wall they clove, they hewed the war- linden ”; explained by Thorpe, as “shields made of the lime or lindeu tree”). But an old form seems to have been Lindest, which suggests lin, a pool. The town contains nothing to interest the visitor, except the Church and the Queen’s House (Hon. Gerald Lascelles), a red-brick building, dating from the reign of Charles II. It was the official resi¬ dence of the Lord Warden when he visited the forest; and in it George III. spent a week in 1789, when on his road to Weymouth. The Hall attached to it, which is used as the Forest Court-house, is open to the public. It has a grim criminal dock of very massive timber. Some fine heads of deer, of all three kinds, are appropriately hung on the walls; and over the chimney is an ancient stirrup-iron of uncertain date, but probably not older than the reign of Henry VIII., tradition¬ ally said to be that used by William Rufus on the day of his fatal hunting. Lyndhurst * Church is remarkable and of great beauty, by W. White. It stands on high ground, and has a lofty spire, visible far over the forest as a landmark. It replaces a mean brick Ch. of about 1750, on the site of the original E. E. Ch. The chancel columns are of Plymouth marble, the window-shafts of Pur- beck. The flower-carving of the capitals of the pillars deserves notice; also the painted windows (E. and S. transept), by Morris and Marshall ; the memorial rood- screen ; an altar-tomb by Street , for Mr. Hargreaves of Cuffnalls, and the monument (from the old Church) by Flaxman to Sir C. P. Jennings; also a beautiful recum¬ bent ligure by the sculptor Coclcerell in memory of his wife. The most 185 Route 14.— Minstead . noteworthy feature of the Ch. is the magnificent *wall-painting, re¬ presenting the parable of the Ten Virgins, the gift of Sir F. Leighton, P.R.A., which covers the E. wall, a celebrated early work of the artist, of great beauty and power. The roads from Southampton and Salisbury unite at Lyndhurst, and run thence to Lymington, passing through very fine scenery. In par¬ ticular, the road to Brockenhurst (4 m.) passes between beech-woods of great beauty, which have a park¬ like character. But the finest beech-trees are at Mark Ash, about 3 m. W. of Lyndhurst, which, in the opinion of many, is the grandest point in the Forest. Lyndhurst is a favourite resort of summer visitors, and is remarkable for the number of gentlemen’s seats which surround it. Cuffnalls (R. G. Hargreaves, Esq.) was formerly the residence of the Rt. Hon. George Rose, the friend of Pitt. George III. was often here, making it a kind of half-way house on his visits to Wey¬ mouth. Near the house is one of the oldest and largest rhododendrons known in England, planted by the celebrated Earl of Bute. Others are Foxlease (W. G. Stevenson, Esq.), with fine oaks in the park ; Norther- wood House (E. F. Kelly, Esq.), from which a very wide view is com¬ manded of the Isle of Wight from Osborne to the Needles; Broohlands (Col. Powell); Wilverley Parli (Mrs. Richardson); Glasshayes (Col. Macleay); Canterton Manor (J. Jeffreys, Esq.); and Malwood, the modern residence, retaining an ancient name, of the Rt. Hon. Sir Wm, Harcourt, M.P. The neighbourhood of Lyndhurst is much resorted to by entomologists. Several rare butterflies and moths are met with in the forest. The botanist will also find some uncom¬ mon plants, especially the Spiranthes aestivalis, in a bog on the Christ¬ church road; and the Gladiolus Illyricus or communis , which abounds among the fern at the end of June, on Vinney Ridge, near Burley, and elsewhere. The tourist will find it also an excellent centre for walks and short excursions; or, if pressed for time, he may make in a single day one long round from here which will show him ail the most interesting parts of the forest N. of the railway. He should first proceed by Minstead to Stony Cross, and the scene of Rufus’s death ; thence along one of the main 'roads by Picket Post to Ringwood; from Ringwood he should return to Lyndhurst by cross roads through the forest, visiting Burley Lodge and Mark Ash in his way. The entire distance will be about 25 m., and the latter portion should not be attempted without a skilful driver or guide. Between Lyndhurst and Minstead, 1 m., lies the picturesque hamlet of Emery Down, where a church has been built from designs by But¬ terfield. About 1 m. N. of Lyndhurst, a cross road turns off on W. toward the pretty village of Minstead. The Ch., still wholly unrestored, retains some relics of the original structure, especially the E. E. north doorway, among red-brick accre¬ tions. The Trans.-Norm. font, square, with very worn figures, was found buried in the Rectory garden, and is set on a new base. The Manor House (H. F. Compton, Esq.) is celebrated for its rhododendrons, covering whole acres with their brilliant flowers in early summer, and seeming perfectly wild. The village inn bears the sign of the “ Trusty Servant,” with the curious figure so well known to Wyke¬ hamists. The scenery from this point, 186 Route 14. —Stony Cross. ascending toward Stony Cross, is perhaps as fine as any in the forest. The pedestrian will here have infi¬ nitely the advantage, since he can wander away into the remoter glades, in some few of which the scenery has been little touched. Near Stony Cross, on the N. side of the road, about J m. E. of the Compton Arms Inn, is Rufus’s Stone, which is said to mark the death spot of William Rufus. Two members of the Conqueror’s family had already fallen in the New Forest: Richard, one of his younger sons, and another Richard, an illegitimate son of Duke Robert. Both had been acci¬ dentally killed by arrow-wounds, the latter in May, 1100. On the 1st of August in the same year, William, with a long train of nobles and attendants, among whom was his brother Henry (afterwards Henry I.), arrived at Malwood, intend¬ ing to hunt the next day in the forest. Malwood Keep, one of the royal hunting castles, lay a short distance E. of Stony Cross. The moat may still be traced surround¬ ing a keeper’s lodge on the rt. of the road from Minstead. As with the narrators of the af¬ forestation, the particulars of the death of Rufus are all the more minutely supplied the further the writers are removed from the date of the event. The Ang. - Sax. Chronicler, a contemporary, gives the following brief account:— “ On the morning after Lammas Day (Aug. i), King William was shot with an arrow in hunting, by one of his men, and afterwards brought to Winchester, and buried in the Cathedral Church. . . . On the Thursday he was slain, and on the morning after buried.” This is much enlarged by Orderic Vitalis, William of Malmesbury, Matthew of Westminster, and others, who tell us, that terrible and mysterious appearances in the forest presaged the fate of William ; and that during the night of his arrival he was heard invoking the Blessed Virgin, an un¬ usual circumstance ; after which he called for lights in his chamber. He had been disturbed by a frightful dream, and ordered his attendants to pass the rest of the night by his bedside. In the morning an artisan brought him six new arrows, two of which he gave to Sir Walter Tyrrel, with the remark that ‘ ‘ good weapons were due to the good sportsman.” After dinner, at which the king “ate more meat and drank even more wine than he was wont to do,” and whilst the grooms and huntsmen were making ready for the chase, a messenger arrived from Serlo, the Norman Abbot of Gloucester, whose business it was to acquaint William with a dream in which one of the monks of his convent had been warned of the king’s approaching death. William despised the warn¬ ing. “Give the monk a hundred pence,” he said, “ and bid him dream of better fortune to our person.” “ Does he think,” he added, turning to Sir Walter Tyrrel, “that I shall imitate these English, who abandon their travel or their business because an old woman has sneezed or dreamt a dream ? ” The royal party rode at once into the forest ; and whilst the rest dis¬ persed, the king and Sir Walter Tyrrel kept together during the day. Toward sunset, as they were resting in the thickets below Stony Cross, a hart came bounding by, at which the king drew an arrow without effect. The hart paused and looked round startled ; and William, who had no second arrow, called aloud to his companion, “ Shoot, shoot, in the devil’s name ! ” Tyrrel drew his bow ; and the arrow, glancing against a tree (or “against the beast’s grizzly back,” according to Orderic), pierced the king’s left breast, and entered the heart. He fell and died with a single groan. Sir Walter, finding him dead, mounted his horse, and galloped at once to the coast, whence he escaped to Normandy ; he died many years after in the Holy Land. The body 187 Route 14 .—Stony Cross. of the king was found late in the evening by a charcoal-burner, who put it into his cart and conveyed it to Winchester. At the first report of his death, his brother Henry hastened to seize the royal treasures in the castle at Winchester, in which, after some dispute with William de Breteuil, who supported the claims of the elder brother, Robert, he succeeded. To this narrative local tradition has added some particulars. It was early asserted that the spot on which the lied King fell was the site of a Ch. destroyed by the Conqueror. The tree against which the fatal arrow glanced was pointed out; and a chapel, in which masses were oc¬ casionally offered for the repose of the king’s soul, existed near it in Leland’s time. The charcoal-burner who found the body was, says tradi¬ tion, named Purkess. He became the ancestor of a very numerous tribe, who always lived near Stony Cross. The name is still common in Minstead. Mr. Lower, in his ‘ Patronymica Britannica,’ throws doubt on the tradition. “ The family,” he says, “ may be ancient, and the tradition true ; but the name is certainly not older than the 13th or 14th centy., being an obvious corruption of Perkins.” It is said that Tyrrel, in his flight to the sea, stopped at a blacksmith’s at Avonford (now often called TyrreVs Ford , Bte. 13), S. of Ringwood, where he had his horse’s shoes reversed, and killed the smith for fear of discovery. The real circumstances of the king’s death have never been ascer¬ tained with certainty. Tyrrel him¬ self asserted on oath, before Suger, Abbot of St. Denys, many years after, when he had nothing to hope or to fear in relation to the matter, that he never saw the king on the day of his- death, nor entered the part of the forest in which he fell. All that is placed beyond doubt is, that \\ illiam fell by an arrow-wound in the forest; and that his body was hastily in¬ terred at Winchester. It is quite uncertain whether Tyrrel himself shot the arrow, designedly or other¬ wise; whether William’s brother and successor Henry had any hand in his death; whether the bolt was that of some outlawed Saxon; or whether the arrow was after all a chance one, the result of the wine and revelry at Malwood before the chase began. The oak-tree against which the arrow was said to have glanced was, by the direction of Charles II., en¬ circled with a paling. It has now completely disappeared; but in its place a stone, about 5 ft. high, was erected, with an inscription, by Lord Delaware, 1745, since enclosed in a hideous triangular iron case, to pro¬ tect it from the devouring tourist. The stone stands in an open glade, surrounded by picturesque oaks of some age. The ground about it is broken and varied. The tradition which fixes on this spot as the scene of the king’s death is evidently very ancient. A short distance beyond the stone is a ruinous thatched cottage, said to be that of Purkess, the charcoal-burner, into which the king’s body was carried. It may occupy the site. A little to the N. and W. of Eufus’s Stone the Bracklesliain beds, well known to geologists as the “ Shepherd’s Gutter, ” “ Brook,” and “ Hunting Bridge ” beds, are reached by sinking deep pits, and beautiful tertiary fossils obtained. The oak against which Tyrrel’s arrow glanced, so Camden asserts, used to send out its leaves in mid¬ winter. This was the case also with another remarkable tree at Cadnam, about 3 m. from Lyndhurst on the Salisbury road, not far E. of Stony Cross, which disappeared about the beginning of the present century. This oak, according to the popular 188 Route 14 .— Broelcenhirst. belief, became full of shoots and young leaves on old Christmas-day (Jan. 5), like the Glastonbury thorn. The Cadnam oak was a “ boundary tree ” of the forest. About 3 m. N. of Rufus Stone, on the borders of Wilts, is the Ch. of Bramshaw, which, though mostly a patchwork of red brick, like Min- stead, retains an E. E. window and arch. The picturesque ch.-yd., on a mound, contains a fine yew. The road from Stony Cross to Ringwood (9 m.) affords some very striking scenery; “holts ” and mossy hollows succeed each other in all directions ; and from every emi¬ nence the eye ranges over a sea of foliage, the tender green of which in the early spring, or the richer tint¬ ing of autumn, will amply repay the artist for any amount of laborious pilgrimage. About half-way, on S., is Boldreivood , through which the chase is said to have swept on the day of the Red King's death. Near Picket Post the geologist will remark some extensive sweeps of sand and gravel. The road passes at last into Ringwood through a more cultivated country. The tourist may either conclude his day’s work at Ringwood, or re¬ turn to Lyndhurst by cross roads through a more southern part of the forest. (These roads are somewhat intricate, and he should take care to ascertain that his guide or driver knows them.) He should leave Burley Manor (E. C. L. Lister-Kay, Esq.) on his rt., and make for Burley Lodge. Here, scattered over an open field, are the remains of 12 magni¬ ficent oaks, known as “the Twelve Apostles.” Five only are now stand¬ ing, 2 of which display very large and superb ruins. From the top of the hill beyond Burley there is a very fine view in the direction of Lyndhurst, distant about 4 m. N.E. Burley Ch. is of brick, by Butterfield. Holmsley Stat. (once called Christ¬ church Road) is in the S. part of this parish; it is 7 m. from Christ¬ church, and 3 from Burley. Brockenhurst by its name (A.-S. hrock, a badger) recalls the old days of the forest. It, like Lynd¬ hurst, is a very good centre for ex¬ cursions ; and it has the advantage or disadvantage, according to taste, as against Lyndhurst. of being an important rly. junction, at which most of the expresses stop. The village itself is shrouded in fine old trees, and the scenery immediately round it is very good. The Church stands on an artificial mound near the Stat., on the S. side, away from the village. It has a plain circular chancel-arch with chamfered edges, springing at once from the wall, without abacus, which is of the primitive Romanesque type. This Ch., like Milford, is men¬ tioned in Domesday Book, but its dedication is unknown. The chan¬ cel is E. E.; there is an arch (of an Easter sepulchre?) on the S. side. The S. door is late Norm., and its ornamentation should be noticed. The Norm, font is square, and of Purbeck marble. In the ch.-yd. is an enormous yew-tree, the hollow trunk of which is 17 ft. in circum¬ ference, and a grand ruin of an oak, covered with ivy, measuring 21 ft. There is the shell of a modern Ch. in the village, which for some reason has been left roofless, and is actually falling to ruin. Close adjoining the old Ch. is Brockenhurst Park (J. Morant, Esq.), in which are some very fine oak- trees. At Watcomhe (now a farm¬ house) Howard the philanthropist once resided. The views in this im¬ mediate neighbourhood are some¬ what confined; but occasional glimpses of blue distance open with very striking effect. On the road to Lymington, for 189 Route 14 .— some distance from Brockenhimt, the country is open heath. In descending toward Hayward Mill, on the Lymington river, a striking view is obtained in the direction of Boldre; a steep wooded bank rises in front, and beyond it is seen the Isle of Wight. At the bridge cross¬ ing the river the artist will find a different picture. The mill is be¬ low, with some old oaks overhanging the stream. At some distance are the ruins of Hayward House, now called “the Mill House,” covered with an enormous mass of ivy, from which rises a stack of moulded chimneys. The heaths now disap¬ pear, and are succeeded by meadows and oak coppices, covering low rising grounds. A road through the wood here leads upward to Boldre Ch. (“ y Byl- dwr,” the full stream), which stands on a hillock, but is so completely solitary and shrouded by trees that the tourist approaching from Brock- enliurst sees nothing of it until he is actually within the eh.-yd. The Ch. itself has been much restored, but has Norm, and E. E. details re¬ sembling those of Milford. The tower is singularly placed at the E. end of the S. aisle, and the organ has been fitted into it. Some arches of the S. aisle arc circular and quite plain, those of the N. aisle E. E. On the N. side of the ch.-yd. is buried the Rev. William Gilpin, the author of ‘ Forest Scenery.’ He was vicar of Boldre for 30 years, and died in 1804, aged 80. In Boldre Church, Southey married his second wife, Caroline Bowles. Notice a very fine maple-tree in the ch.-yd. From the Ch. the pedestrian may descend through the oak wood, and recross the river at Boldre bridge, thence gaining the Southampton road to Lymington. About 1 m. from the town, at a gate opposite a small cottage, is a striking view of the river and the Isle of Wight. ■Lymington. [From Broekenhurst there is a branch line of 5£ m. to Lymintjton , whence steamers run to Yarmouth (I. W.), giving the easiest access to the western end of the Isle of Wight. 97f m., LYMINGTON (Town Stat.). Passengers for the Isle of Wight proceed by a short extension across the river to 98 m., Lymington Pier Stat., whence boats cross to Yarmouth in tj hr., half of the time being taken in the muddy and winding exit of the Lymington river. Lymington is a picturesque old port, consisting mainly of one long street descending to the river, and situated, like most of the earliest ports, some little way (about 2 m.) inland for the sake of security. The approach by the river with its many windings between dangerous mud-banks is almost impossible except for a local pilot. In spite of its antiquity it has very little to detain a tourist. Lymington is a borough by pre¬ scription. Baldwin de Redvers, Earl of Devon, granted a charter in 1150. The name of the earliest recorded mayor, William Lyteltane, occurs in a deed of 1319. The early charters were confirmed by Queen Elizabeth, but the town was not formally incorporated until 1G05. It became a Parliamentary borough in 1578, and has the honour of ranking among its members the great historian, Gibbon, who was returned here after his rejection at Liskeard. The salt-works formerly at the mouth of the creek were perhaps of British origin, since large heaps of wood-ashes have been found on the shore adjoining. (The British mode of procuring salt was to set on fire a pile of wood, and to pour sea-water on the ashes.) Salt-making was once a flourishing trade here, upwards of 190 Route 14 .— Baddesley. 10 salterns being at work less than a century ago, when the amount of duty paid was very considerable. They were gradually reduced, until the last two were closed in 1866, and the site converted into an oyster- breeding ground. This project hav¬ ing failed, a still older one, to con¬ struct docks in their place, has been revived. Some timber is shipped at this port; but the har¬ bour is principally used as a station for yachts, and by outward-bound merchantmen and coasting vessels, during the prevalence of westerly winds. The manor of Lyrnington, called Lentune at Domesday, when Roger d’lvry held it, came through the De Redvers, and Isabella de Fortibus, the “ Lady of Wight,” to the Courte¬ nays, whose 3 bezants still figure in the town arms. The port was of considerable importance in early times. In 1301 it contributed 9 ships and 159 men to the fleet for coast defence, and in 1345 twice as many as Portsmouth for the inva¬ sion of France. When the Duke of Monmouth landed at Lyme, the Mayor of Lyrnington, Thomas Dore, proclaimed him king, and raised a hundred men to join his standard. It was near Lyrnington that the young King Henry II., who had narrowly escaped shipwreck, landed, Dec. 7, 1154, and twelve days after¬ wards was crowned at Westminster. The Church (St. Thomas of Can¬ terbury; see Rte. 1, Portsmouth, St. Thomas’’ Ch.), restored in 1874, is of little interest. It contains a monu¬ mental bust of Charles Colborne, Esq. (d. 1747), by Bysbrack; and a monument for Captain Rogers, by J. Bacon, B.A. The parish register contains the following entry, dated 20th May, 1736: “ Samuel Bald- wyn, Esq., sojourner in this parish, was immersed without the Needles, in Scratchell’s Bay, sans ceremonie.” His wife, says tradition, had threatened to dance over' his grave, and her purpose was thus ingeni¬ ously defeated. About 1 m. N. of the town is a large earthwork called Buchland Bings, forming an irregular circle, with deep trench and double vallum, and strong additional outworks N. and E. It deserves examination. The trench is now covered with wood—fir, holly, and oak; but has a path through it. The area en¬ closed is very considerable. The camp (British ?) commanded the creek, on the opposite side of which, about 2 m. S.E., is Mount Pleasant, a lofty mound of earth which may have served as a watch-tower. Excursions. For the tall tower near Sway, which is often ascended for its ex¬ tensive view (3 m.), and the interest¬ ing Ch. of Milford (4 m.) with the walk along Hordle Cliffs, see Rte. 13. (a) The tourist may make an ex¬ cursion to Beaulieu Abbey (post) from Lyrnington, 7 m. The road, which crosses Beaulieu Heath, is not very attractive, but the Abbey will make ample amends. There are also some pleasant drives along the coast, between the Lyrnington and Beaulieu rivers. Pylewell Parle (W. I. Whitaker, Esq.) commands a very fine view of the Isle of Wight. The village of South Baddesley, N. of it (the Ch. is modern and plain), became famous toward the middle of the last century for its “groaning tree”; an elm which sent forth a strange noise from its roots, “ like that of a person in extreme agony.” It continued to groan for about a year and a half; when a hole was bored in its trunk, and the noise ceased. There was a Preceptory of the Templars here.' (b) Yarmouth, Freslnoater Bay, and the Needles may easily be visited in a summer day’s excursion. Route 14 .—Hurst Castle. 191 (c) Hurst Castle may also be visited, though the approach is a matter of some difficulty. The best way is to go by the steamer to Yar¬ mouth and there take a boat, which will land you on the rough jetty in front of the castle. It is scarcely possible to drive or aide to the castle along the shingle; the walk is sufficiently laborious. Hurst Castle, which guards the Solent Strait, here but 1400 yds. across, is built on the extremity of a bar of shingle, that extends in a curve nearly 2 m. from the main¬ land, on the eastern shore of Christ¬ church Bay. This bank, formed much in the same way as the more famous Chesil Bank, consists of waterworn chalk-flints and gravel, derived from the alluvial drift which is so largely distributed over the coast district, and brought up by the strong tides, aided by violent westerly gales. “It is remarkable for its un¬ common solidity ; for it is merely a submarine cliff of shingle 200 ft. high, the depth of the channel close to the castle being 33 fathoms ; and the tide flows through it with a rapidity which, at certain times, no boat can stem ; yet this natural breakwater has remained unmoved for centuries.”— Sir H. Englejield. Hurst Castle itself was one of the many “ bulwarks ” built along the S. coast during the latter part of the reign of Henry VIII., a circular tower, with lunettes, resembling, though on a larger scale, those of San down (now nearly destroyed) and Heal. It and Cowes Castle further up on the Isle of Wight shores were mainly built from the materials of Beaulieu Abbey. What now remaius of the original castle forms a keep or central tower, on which is the date 1535. On each side extends a wall of granite, 1500 ft. in length, with numerous embrasures for heavy guns, fur¬ nished with iron shields. On the beach, beside storehouses, is a light¬ house, and also a signal station, connected with both the Isle of Wight and Lymington, by which means the approach of the great ocean-going steamers is notified to Southampton (If hour distant) even before the vessel enters the Solent. Almost opposite Hurst Castle are the modern fortifications on the Isle of Wight. From the Castle, which occupies its remote position in solitary dig¬ nity, with seagulls for its only com¬ panions, there is a fine sea view toward and beyond the Needles. It has always been considered an important post, and for an attempt to betray it to the French, in the reign of Mary, one of the Uvedales of Wickham (Rte. 3) suffered death. After the Restoration it was often used as a state prison, and a Francis¬ can monk, named Atkinson, died in it, 1730, after a confinement of almost 30 years. Charles I. was detained here for 18 days, before his removal to Windsor. He had been seized at Newport by Colonel Eure, in the name of the army, and on the 30th November, 1648, was removed to Hurst. An interesting account of the removal is given in the Memoirs of Colonel Fire brace, who was one of the king’s attendants. Charles remained at Hurst until the 18tli of December, when he was conveyed to London, and thence to Windsor. The room said to have been occupied by him at Hurst Castle is nothing more than a closet in the thickness of the wall, on the 2nd story of the keep, with a small window looking W.; the dimensions are about 8 ft. by 44; and in the face of Colonel Firebrace’s assertions of courteous usage, it is difficult to believe that this cupboard could have been more than his dressing closet, or at most his bed-chamber. “King Charles’s Golden Rules” used to hang in this room, and were 192 Route 14 .—Beaulieu Abbey. said to have been placed there by the king himself. The keep now consists of 2 great rooms or barracks, surrounding a central winding staircase. The most interesting architectural remains in the New Forest district are undoubtedly those of ^Beau¬ lieu Abbey (pronounced Bewley ), which is only less known than Netley because it is much more difficult of access, a fact which adds greatly to its charm. There are various ways of reaching it, in all of which the pedestrian has a considerable advantage. («) The nearest Stat. is Beaulieu Road (see Rte. 13), between Lynd- hurst Road and Brockenhurst, at which only the slower trains stop; from this it is 3f m. (no conveyance). The road is over open heath to Pennerley Farm, where we come upon the little stream of the Exe or Beaulieu River. (h) From Brockenhurst, the road (G m.) skirts Brockenhurst Park, after which there is a tine view W. and S. Lady Cross Lodge marks a boundary of the Sanctuary of the Abbey. Near this, on rt., are several barrows. Then the open Beaulieu Heath affords extensive views of the Isle of Wight. (c) From Lyndhurst to Beaulieu Road Stat. is 3J m.; thence 3* m.; see («). (d) From Southampton, an alter¬ native route is to take the steamer to Hythe from the Pier (steamers almost hourly), from which it is 4;j m. Conveyances can be hired at Hythe, for which see Southampton Water (Rte. 6). Beaulieu Abbey (now the property of Lord Montagu), and the quaint, old-fashioned village which has grown up about it, stand at the head of a long, narrow creek, stretching up from the Solent, and here re¬ ceiving the little forest stream, the Exe. " The site is exactly such an one as the Cistercians preferred, sur¬ rounded by deep woods, and on the banks of a stream, where there were meadows to be reclaimed and en¬ riched by the industry of the White Monks. The vine- and rose-covered cottages attest the sheltered warmth of the situation. Some years ago the village suffered much from low fever, owing to the unwholesome water drunk by the inhabitants. The late Lord Montagu constructed a large reservoir, and had water from the “ Abbot’s Well ” conveyed to every house in the village, which has effectually remedied this. Beaulieu Abbey (“Abbatia in Nova Foresta, quae vocitatur Bellus loetts”) was founded by King John circa 1204, and shares with Hales Owen, in Shropshire, and Faringdon, Berks, the distinction of being the sole religious houses founded or endowed by that monarch, who was far more anxious to “ shake the bags of hoarding abbots ” than to add to their contents. According to a story told in the Chartulary of the abbey (preserved among the Cottonian MSS)., John, who for some unex¬ plained reason had become fiercely enraged with the English Cistercians, ordered their abbots to attend a par¬ liament at Lincoln, and then threat¬ ened to have them trodden to death under the feet of wild horses. But during the following night a terrible dream came to visit the king on his couch. It seemed to him that he was led before a certain judge, be¬ side whom the insulted abbots were ranged in order. The judge, having heard their complaint, ordered them to inflict a severe scourging on the royal back. This they did ; and when the king woke the next morn¬ ing he declared that he still suffered from the effects of the punishment. Much alarmed, he consulted one of his chaplains, who persuaded him to forgive the abbots, and to make some further expiation for his crime. Route 14 .—Beaulieu Abbey. 103 He accordingly founded Beaulieu Abbey, and peopled it with a colony of 30 monks from the parent house at Citeaux. However legendary this story may be, it is certain that much land, both here and in Berkshire, was bestowed by King John on his foundation, which he designed to be his burial- place. The district surrounding the abbey was disafforested, and released from all ordinary “ suits and ser¬ vices,” whilst valuable rights of com¬ mon were bestowed. Innocent III. granted the right of sanctuary, and freed the abbey from episcopal juris¬ diction. It was not, however, until 1216 that the works were completed, and solemnly dedicated, in the pre¬ sence of Henry III. and his queen, Richard Earl of Cornwall, and a long train of prelates and nobles. The king, it is said, was so gratified with the splendour of the dedication feast, which cost 500 marks, that he remitted a considerable fine which the abbot had incurred by a tres¬ pass in the New Forest. Like other great abbeys, Beaulieu remained a sanctuary after the right had been greatly curtailed, and, according to the received account, it afforded refuge to two unfortunate royal ladies at the same eventful crisis. Ann Neville, wife of War¬ wick the King-maker, fled hither, Easter Eve, 1171, the day before the battle of Barnet, where her husband fell, and is said to have been joined by the unhappy Margaret of Anjou, who had landed at Wey¬ mouth on the very day of the battle; but this is an error. Recent re¬ searches have shown that Margaret proceeded from Weymouth to Cerne Abbey (see H.Bk. .for Dorset), and remained there with her son Edward, until the arrival of the Duke of Somerset and others, fugitives from Barnet, who persuaded her to set forth for the fatal field of Tewkes¬ bury. [Hants.'] In 1497 Perkin Warbeck, after landing at Whitsand Bay and be¬ sieging Exeter, suddenly fled from the army of Henry VII. which he had encountered before Taunton, and took sanctuary at Beaulieu. Lord Daubeney at once invested the abbey with a body of 300 men, so as to prevent all hope of escape ; and Warbeck, after remaining here for some time, was persuaded to deliver himself up on promise of life ; but after an imprisonment in the Tower he died a felon’s death at Tyburn. Less distinguished personages, how¬ ever, sheltered themselves from jus¬ tice in the sanctuary of Beaulieu ; and when in 1539 the abbey was suppressed, Langton, the monastic visitor, described the misery that would fall upon the “ 32 sanctuary- men who were here for debt, felony, and murder, if they were driven forth, or sent to other sanctuaries. They had here their wives and children, and dwelling-houses, and ground, whereby they live with their families. ” ( Froude , Hist. Eng. iii. 414.) At the Dissolution the annual revenue of the abbey was 326Z. It was granted to Thomas Wriothesley, Earl of Southampton, and passed into the hands of the Duke of Montagu through his marriage with a daughter of Lord Southampton, temp. Will. III. From the Mon¬ tagus it descended by marriage to the house of Buccleuch. The estate is 2S m. in circumference. The remains of the abbey stand very picturesquely on a reach of the Beaulieu Creek, near the jioint where the Exe river joins it and forms a lake-like sheet of water. Crossing the bridge (adjoining which is the modern representative of the old mill of the abbey), and passing through the gate-house, overhung, like the long wall of the precincts, with thick masses of ivy, you find yourself in front of the Gate Rouse , now called the Palace House (Lord Montagu). It has been restored o 194 Boute 14 .—Beaulieu Abbey* by Sir A. Blomjield. Immediately within the entrance is a groined hall, of good Dec. character. In the upper rooms is some good wooden Tudor panelling, with an unusual fringe to the napkin. Remark the grotesque heads of the exterior stringcourse. The moat and the turreted wall now surround¬ ing the building, are said to have been the work of “ John the Pian- ter,” 2nd Duke of Montagu (1709- 1749), who feared that, unless his house were thus defended, some French privateer might take advan¬ tage of the creek, and carry him off prisoner. A path across the meadow leads to the most interesting portion of the remains, the old Refectory, now converted into the parish Church. Very slight alteration was necessary, and it has very much the same appearance as if it had been built for the purpose, except that it stands N. and S., and has no chancel arch. It is throughout late E. E. In either wall is a line range of simple lancets, the space of two in the W. wall being occupied by the celebrated stone pulpit and its arcaded passage. The end window is a very fine triplet. The bosses of the roof deserve notice. Among the royal and ecclesiastical personages 3 epresented are John (the founder), Richard King of the Romans, and Pope Innocent III. The Ch. has been well cared for of late .years, especially the chancel, which is admirably arranged and fitted. The pulpit is that originally intended for the monastic reader (who edified the brethren, during their repasts, reading history, “rotundius,” and sermons, “ attractius ”), and is ap¬ proached by a staircase and passage in the thickness of the w r all, with a very beautiful open arcade in front, supported by slender shafts of Pur- beck. The pulpit is ornamented with tooth moulding and beautiful leafage. The only other one like it in England is in the Refectory at Chester Cathedral. The S. door of the Ch. has some very ancient iron¬ work, which should be noticed. Against the N. wall is a monument, with effigy, for Mary Do (d. 1051), with a curious acrostic:— ** M ! erciless fate, to our great griefe and wo, A ; pray hath here made of our deere Mall i I)o; R akte up in dust, and hid in earthe and | clay, Y et live her soule and virtues now and aye, D eathe is a debte all owe, which must l>e ! payde, O h! that she knew, and of’t was not l afraicio.” In the cli.-yd. formerly existed a tombstone with a curious inscription to the memory of Mary Dore (not “Mall Do”), a famous witch who died at Beaulieu in the early part of the last century. It was asserted that she could change herself into a hare at will, and possessed sundry other magical powers. The tomb¬ stone and inscription were placed here by direction of the Duke of Montagu, probably the only time that a village witch has been so distinguished. The X. door of the refectory opens into the ruined Cloisters. The walls are ruddy with Diantlius armeria, and fragrant with the esculent thyme, probably escaped from the monastic garden. The 3 fine arches on the E. side indicate the entrance to the Chapter-house. The pillars had small clustered shafts of Pur- beck interspersed, which have been removed. On the site of the chapter-house are a stone coffin and some sepulchral slabs. There are traces of adjoining buildings. To the 1. (N.) is the sacristy; to the rt. (S.) a passage to the abbot’s resi¬ dence, succeeded by the day-room of the monks, divided, as at Netley, by a row of columns down the centre. The base of one is visible, 195 Monte 14 .—Beaulieu Abbey. the others have been traced. The monks’ dormitory was above, and the stairs descending into the S. transept are to be seen. In the wall, near the refectory door, are the remains of the lavatory. Seven large arched recesses in the W. wall may have been the monks’ cells. Much of the old pavement remains. All this is of the same date as the refectory, late E. E. verging upon Dec. Along the W. side of the cloister is a long range of buildings, with vaulted substructure, and above, the dormitory of the “hos- pitium,” long used as a dwelling- house, afterwards as a carpenter’s shop, but now cleared of accumu¬ lated rubbish and incongruous brick and timber patchings, and having its ancient doors and windows re¬ stored. The staircase communicat¬ ing with the S. aisle, and the base of the S.W. tower of the Ch. have been laid open. In the cloister are stored many fragments of capitals, pillars, bosses, &e., collected from the walls and buildings around, and others from Park (post). Some brought from Hurst Castle, built by Henry VIII. from the ruins of the abbey, have been restored to their original site after 3 centuries of divorce. Two doors in the N. wall of the cloister opened into the great Church, of which the foundations were very carefully traced by the skilful hand of a late vicar, the Rev. F. W. Baker, by direction of the Duke of Buccleuch, and every pillar and buttress marked. It was about 335 feet long, consisting of a nave and two aisles, central tower, transepts with aisles, and a circular apse, with procession path and chapels beyond, forming a double aisle, a most unusual arrangement in Eng¬ land. All is marked out by a low stone fencing. Ancient graves are indicated by wooden posts. Among the great personages who were laid to rest in this Ch. was Isabella, first wife of Richard Earl of Cornwall, King of the Romans, and brother of Henry III. Her grave was dis¬ covered in 1862 in front of the high altar, and a stone still exists bearing her name. There is a tradition that Eleanor of Aquitaine, queen of Henry II., the mother of the founder and of Coeur-de-Lion, was interred here, but she was really buried at Fontevrault, where her tomb may still be seen. N. of the Ch. are the remains of a large building, traditionally called the brewery and winepress. Its true appropriation, however, is un¬ certain. The fields lying beyond it are still called “ the Vineyards.” A kind of long terrace is connected with the building, which contained an aqueduct, the water of which was led from a spring at some distance. The general situation is well seen from this spot. To the V. a broad green plot, called Clieaps ide, is the site of the old market. The monastic fish-ponds are seen E. of the Ch. The wall of the precincts, a considerable part of which remains, is 1J m. in circumference. The Beaulieu Creek, or Exe river, winds seaward picturesquely, with its shores overhung by low wood. Just below the village is the quay at which small vessels uuload, the earlier or monastic work being still traceable above it. Upon the W. shore of the creek, 2 m. from Beaulieu, is Buckler’s Hard, a place once famous for the shipbuilding yards of Henry Adams. From 1743 to 1812 many famous battleships were launched here; three, the ‘ Agamemnon,’ ‘ Euryalus,’ and ‘ Swiftsure,’ fought at Trafalgar. At Buckler’s Hard also John, second Duke of Montagu, Master General of the Ordnance to George II., pro¬ jected a town and docks, as a depot for the produce of the West India island of St. Lucia, then belonging to him, which was to rival Bristol 196 Route 15. itself. The duke died in 1749, his successor had not his enthusiasm, and when, at the peace of 1763, St. Lucia was ceded to France, the scheme was abandoned. On the same side of the creek there were formerly 3 granges on the abbey manor, witli chapels attached. No trace beyond the name remains of the most northern, Bouvery , the Ox-farm. At St. Leonard’s (2 m. S.) are the ivy- covered gables of a barn, 226 ft. long, the great “ spicarium ” of the monastery; and a picturesque ruin of a small Dec. chapel, in which is a canopied niche. At Sowley, on the Solent, 54 m. S.W., is a pond of 90 acres, anciently called Colgrim’s mere. It was oue of the monastic fish-ponds, but afterwards served as a head of water to work the great hammer of the Sowley ironworks, long since closed, where the iron¬ stone from Hordwell Cliffs was smelted. A chapel at Park (2 m. E.), about 42 ft. long, divided into 2 compartments by a stone division reaching to the roof, was destroyed about the beginning of the present century, but fragments have of late years been collected, and are now preserved at Beaulieu. The farm¬ house, which is ancient, should be noticed, and the views through the wood, across the Solent to the Isle of Wight, are very beautiful. On the 1. bank of the creek, near the mouth, is Exbury, a chapelry of Fawley , 3 m. N.E. The Oh. was built in 1827. Exbury House (H. W. Forster, Esq.) was once the residence of Col. Mitford, the historian of Greece. 2 m. E. from Exbury is the hamlet of Lepe, where traces of a Roman road, connecting it with Southampton in one direction and Eingwood in the other, may still be traced. In the time of Elizabeth “ the common passage of the Isle ” was between Lepe and Gurnard Bay, near Cowes, where the Roman road reappears at Rue Street, and passing W. of Carisbrook, makes its way to the S. of the island. On this side we find Rue Copse, Rue Common, and King’s Rue. The young King Henry II. landed near here, Dec. 7,1154, to take possession of the throne, having narrowly escaped shipwreck; and tradition asserts that Louis the Dauphin embarked here after the defeat of his army at Lincoln. A highly improbable tale brings Charles L here from Titchfield on his passage to the island, Nov. 13, 1647. Fawley Ch. stands very remote (8 m. from Southampton, 10 from Brockenhurst) near the shore of Southampton Water. It has a cen¬ tral tower, and a good Norm. W. door. Within are three piscinas and a squint. Calshot Castle (Rte. 6, Southampton Water ) is rather more than 3 m. distant, at the end of a long spit of shingle at the mouth of the Water. ROUTE 15. BOURNEMOUTH TO SALISBURY, VIA WIMBORNE(OF. RiNGWOOD), AND FORDINGBRIDGE. (34 m.) A line called the Somerset and Dorset affords direct communication with Bournemouth (West Stat.), joining the S. W. line to Dorchester at West Moors Junct., half-way be¬ tween Ringwood and Wimborne. It is possible, therefore, to travel via Ringwood instead of Wimborne, but the connexion of the trains from this direction is very bad. An un¬ hurried traveller will find it well worth while to walk or drive from Ringwood to Fordingbridge (64 m.), taking Ellingham and Moyles Court on the way. Route 15 . 197 From Bournemouth to Ring-wood the Ely. is the old line to London, until the direct line to Brockenhurst was opened. Between Christchurch and Ringvvood there is only one Stat. (3 in.) called Hum Stat. (Such is the railway spelling; really Hern = heron.) 1 m. W. is Heron Court (Earl of Malmesbury), which has some good pictures and a fine library, founded by James Harris, author of Hermes , father of the first Earl. The green of the park makes a pleasant break in the bare downs. The house is not usually shown. Nearer to the line is St. Catharine’s Hill, and on rt. of the line the interesting Ch urch of Sopley (see Excursions from Christchurch). There is a curious contrast between the bare downs W. of the line, and the green meadows by the Avon E. of it. At Si m. from Christchurch we reach RINGWOOD Stat., the junction with the S. W. line to Doicheater. Ringwood is the principal town in this corner of Hampshire, plea¬ santly situated on the E. bank of the Avon, which here divides into three branches. The Roman origin sometimes claimed for Ringwood may be set aside without hesitation ; the manor was, however, of some importance at the period of the Domesday survey. Woollen and cotton gloves are knitted in great quantities here. The town contains little to detain the tourist, except the large cruciform Church , ori¬ ginally E. E., which was almost rebuilt in 1854. It is of dignified exterior, and the chancel with its many lancets is tine, but the nave is spoilt internally by galleries. In the floor by the S.W. chancel stall is a fine but mutilated Brass to John Prophete (?), Prebendary of Lincoln, Dean of Hereford and York, 1416, in cope ornamented with saints. At the Grammar School, Stillingfleet, Bj>. of Worcester, author of the Origines, received his education. It was from the house now called Monmouth House, near the bridge, that the Duke of Monmouth ad¬ dressed his abject petitions for mercy to James II. and Catherine of Bra- ganza; he had been taken about 8 m. off, at Woodlands, in Dorset¬ shire. Lampreys and eels of great size abound in the Avon. Salmon and trout are also found. The woods of Somerley Park (Lord Normanton) are seen N., 2 m. The house stands high and com¬ mands pleasant views, whilst the close vicinity of stately trees is very peculiar and striking. It contains a fine collection of Pictures , gener¬ ally shown on application. The gallery in which they are arranged is very successfully lighted. “ No master is so well represented here, either in number or quality, as Sir Joshua Reynolds, so that it may boldly be asserted that no one who has not seen this gallery can judge of the powers of the great English master in their whole extent.”— Waagen. Remark especially the following pictures by Sir Joshua Sketch for the Adoration of the Shepherds (the picture, reproduced in stained glass for the W. window of New College, was destroyed by fire at Belvoir Castle). The Virgin and Child, St. John and Joseph, in a landscape. A gipsy fortune-teller. Una with the lion; the background a midnight sky; “ the whole picture highly poetical.” Seven allegorical figures, life size—models for the painted glass in the lower part of the W. window of New College Chapel, Oxford. “ There is no doubt that these figures are the most important works executed by Sir Joshua out of the field of por¬ trait-painting. Though the designs arc not near equal to the heads in 108 Mo ate 15.— point of finish, yet, as designs, they are very distinguished.”— Waagen. They represent Justice with the Scales, Temperance, Charity (“ the ]tower and warmth of the trans¬ parent colouring is extraordinary ”), Faith, Hope, Prudence, and Forti¬ tude (“ of extraordinary power of colouring ”). Portrait of Lady Hamilton. His own portrait, still youthf ul. Portraits of Mrs. Inchbald and of Lady Pembroke. Two or three nictures of children. Portraits 4. of Miss Gwyn, and of Nelson—the latter very fine; and the Infant Samuel; “ in the beauty of the head, in the reddish warm colouring, and the very careful execution, this is the finest example I know of this picture.”— Waagen. Among other noticeable pictures of the English school are—Portrait of Pitt, Gainsborough , one of the finest examples of the master. Por¬ trait of Lady Hamilton, Romney. Portraits of 2 girls, Hogarth. Por¬ trait of the Duke of Wellington, Simpson (an assistant of Laurence). Landscape, Morland; “one of the best pictures of this careless master.” Girl crossing a brook, Creswich. Of foreign schools remark—Portrait of the Princess Mary, daughter of Charles I., Vandyck. Virgin and Child and St. John, with SS. Jerome and Francis, Innocenzo da Tmola. Landscape, Aart van der Neer. Sea-piece, Willem van de Velde. Portrait called Lady Jane Grey, but inaccurately, Holbein , very fine. A Stormy Sea, Baelihuysen. A Fresh Breeze, Willem van de Velde. Sketch of Moses striking the Rock (picture at Seville), Murillo. Two landscapes, and scene in a picture gallery, Teniers. Virgin and Child, Carlo Maratti. Venus and Adonis, Titian. 2 landscapes, Adrian van Hiest, “ very poetical and success¬ ful.” Landscape, Wouvermans. Landscape with Tobit and the Angel, Domenichino. Moonlight landscape, Aart van der Neer. ElUngliam. Marriage of St. Catherine, Parme- gianino; “ One of the most beauti¬ ful pictures I know by the master.” — Waagen. Small landscape, Paul Brill. Moonlight, Albert Cuyp. Four Angels, life size (from a con¬ vent in Seville), Murillo. The Doge’s palace, Canaletto. A female figure holding a branch of roses, Guido. Slave with a basket of fiowers, Murillo. Landscape, Ruys- dael. The Infant Christ asleep, Murillo. Landscape with small waterfall, Ruysdael. The Annun¬ ciation, Le Sueur ; “ Seldom is such an important work of the master met with out of France.”— Waagen. 4 pictures of young girls, Greuze. Portrait of William III. as Prince of Orange, Caspar Netscher; this was the picture sent to the Prin¬ cess Mary in England, before her marriage. In the Library are—Portrait of the Mother of the 2nd Lord Nor- manton, Gainsborough; sketch for the picture of the Opening of the Will, Wilkie; and 2 Venetian views, Guardi. In the Dining Room is a dying lioness by Rubens , “of the utmost truth and mastery.” Here also is placed the statue of a girl about to bathe, by Bystrom, the Swedish sculptor. The road from Ringwood to For- dingbridge passes by the Ch., and is shaded by magnificent elms. At 2| m., turning down a lane to the 1., we reach the interesting *Ch. of Ellingham. where once was a cell of St. Sauveur-le-Vicomte, in Nor- mandv, founded in 1108, and given by Henry VI. to Eton College. The Ch., which has been carefully restored by T. G. Jackson, R.A ., is mainly E. E., with 18th cent¬ red-brick at the W. end. The chancel has a triple lancet E. window, formerly blocked, a double piscina and two slabs, probably of priors of the cell. On the S. side of Ixoute 15. the nave is, apparently, a priest’s chamber, having an external door also. The rood-loft is blocked up, but exists in the walling over the screen, and it is stated that the rood itself still exists there. On the W. wall is a late Flemish picture, of the Last Judgment, taken from a C’h. at Puerto Sta. Maria, near Cadiz, in 1702, and given by Admiral Lord 'Windsor, who then lived at Movies Court. It is in a fine carved frame, which appears to be of English, not Spanish work. In the nave is a remarkable canopied pew, which belongs to Moyles Court. On the pulpit is the iron frame for the hour¬ glass, and in the vestry are some in¬ teresting heads and other fragments. On the S. wall of nave is a slab to Alice Beconsawe (1022), who was Lady Alice Lisle’s mother. “ Dame Alicia Lisle ” is buried in a plain tomb, close to the S. side of the Ch., with an inscription merely stating that she “dyed the 2nd of Sept. 1685.” The burial register of this date has most unfortunately been lost. A gate of Somerley Park is close to Ellingham. Moyles Court, 1 m. E. (F. Fane, Esq.), the property of Lord Nor- manton, was the residence of the Beconsawe family, whose heiress Alicia in 1630 married John Lisle, the regicide, styled Lord Lisle as a member of the Council. He fled from Eugland at the Restoration, having rendered himself more odious than his follows by his barbarous conduct as President of the high courts of justice erected from time to time under the Com¬ monwealth, and he was assassi¬ nated in Switzerland in 1664. His estates had been forfeited on his attainder, but Moyles Court was regranted to his wife, on her peti¬ tion to James, Duke of York (1672). One of her sons, who had been disinherited by his father as a n yalist, fought on the king’s side *70 - - Ibbesley „ 199 at Sedgemoor; but his mother con¬ cealed in this house, among others, one John Hickes, a seditious preacher and adherent of Mon- • mouth, who was also implicated in the Rye House Plot, and being convicted before Judge Jefferies, she was beheaded at Winchester, Sept. 2nd, 1685. Her story, a very marked episode of the rebellion, and well known in Macaulay’s version, which, however, needs much correction (see Mr. Inderwick’s Side Lights on the Stuarts ), has been chosen as the subject of a fresco in the New Palace of Westminster, where she appears concealing the fugitives. Moyles Court, which derives its name from the family of Meoles (de Molis), is a Jacobean red-brick house, on the site of a larger one of much earlier date, amid charming forest surroundings. It has a beau- ful dining-room with a gallery over it, a long gallery with panelling said to have been in the chapel, and a mahogany staircase, evidently of the same work as the canopied pew in Ellingham Church. The preacher, Hickes, is said to have been concealed in the malt-house, and the other Sedgemoor fugitives in the large cellars, which have groined vaultings with heads, and are the remains of the older house. On the main road, 3 m. from Ringwood, is Ibbesley, where the bridge, just above the *veir, on a long winding reach of the river, forms a striking view. The small Ch. is modem, but contains a good monument to Sir John Constable and wife, 1627, and a brass of Edward Passion, 1599. \ m. from the bridge, on W., Harbridge Ch., rebuilt in 1839, forms a very pretty feature in the valley. A picturesque turret has been since added to the tower by Lord Norinanton. Near Ford- ingbridge, on an eminence, stands Hyde Ch., built for a district of Fordingbridge, in the Dec. 200 Route 15.— Breamore. style. It is worth visiting for the view. 6J m. from Elngwood is Fording- bridge, where there is a Stat. on the line to Salisbury. It is named in Domesday Book as Forde. The town once possessed a [market, now decayed, though it has some trade in flax and sail-cloth, and Neave’s Frame-food manufactory is situated here, close to the Stat. It is also a noted resort for anglers on the Avon, which here is crossed by a seven-arched bridge. The *Ch. is interesting. Though without transepts it has a cruciform effect, the tower being curiously placed over the E. bay of the N. aisle. The nave is early Dec., with slender circular piers, and a Perp. roof; the chancel E. E., with a re¬ markable triple lancet E. window, haviug singular flat headings. N. of the chancel, divided from it by an arcade of clustered piers, is a chapel with good Dec. windows (tilled with hideous green glass), and a flue early Perp. roof witli angel heads. There is a double E. E. piscina, with credence, in the chancel, and a Dec. piscina in the chancel. The arch to the rood- loft ; a brass, 1568, on the N. pier of the chancel-arcli; a stoup by the N. door; a sepulchral recess, ex¬ ternal, on the N. wall of the chancel- aisle; and the plain old font, exiled to the churchyard by the N. porch, may also be noticed. 3 m. N.W., in an outlying angle of the county, is Eockbourne, with the woods of West Park , belonging to the Coote family. The pillar seen on the high ground com¬ memorates the victories of Sir Eyre Coote, the captor of Pondichery (d. 1783). Bockbourne Ch. has an E. E. or early Dec. arcade and aisle, and a Norm, doorway leading to N. Chantry Chanel There a,re me¬ morials to Gen. Sir Eyre Coote (d. 1857) and a very beautiful alto- relief, by Gibson , to the memory of his son, who died at Naples in 1834, aged 28. Adjoining is Bockbourne Manor House , now a farm and partly ruined. It was the seat of Sir John Cooper, father of Anthony Ashley Cooper, 1st Lord Shaftesbury, who was born at Wimborne St. Giles (see H.Bk.for Dorsetshire). On the N. side of the Ch. are the remains of a hospital for lepers, with its hall and chapel. 2 m. beyond Fordingbridge is Breamore (pron. Bremmer) Stat. The ancient mansion of Breamore (Sir Edward Hulse, Bt.) was burnt down in 1856, except one wing datiug from 1572, which has been restored, and has been replaced by a modern Elizabethan structure. The *Ch. is very interesting as an instance of a cruciform church of the later Saxon period (10th or early 11th cent.). Its size is 97 ft. by 20 ft. During its restoration in 1897 by Mr. Purday, at the cost of Lady Hulse, the Saxon character of the entire shell of the building was clearly shown on stripping off the external plaster. The walls are of flint, with pilaster strips and quoins of greenstone. Several round- headed Saxon windows remain.. The N. transept has disappeared,, and also a western extension of it. On the external wall, above the S. door, are the mutilated remains of three life-sized figures of a Saxou stone rood, similar to one at Head- bourne Worthy. ( Excursions from Winchester, Bte. 6.) The S. porch is 12th cent.; its walls were raised in the 15th cent, so as to enclose the rood in a parvise ornamented with rough wall-painting, now opened to the porch below. The central tower originally stood on 201 Route 15 .—South Char ford. four Saxon arclies, of which only the S. one remains complete. This is a tall, narrow arch, with bold cable-moulding on projecting im¬ posts. Over it is an inscription in capital letters cut in the stone, which were found tilled with plaster, and coloured red. It is old-Eng. of about the 11th cent., her swutelath seo gecwydvaednes the ( = “ here becomes manifest the covenant to thee ”); denoting perhaps the fulfilment of some church-building vow. Another fragment indicates that the inscrip¬ tion was continued over the other arches. The S. transept has also a Saxon archway, probably a later insertion, below an original window in its E. wall. Wider four-centred arches of the 15th cent, have taken the place of the original E. and W. tower arches ; and remains of a low stone chancel screen and rood-loft entrance, of the later date, have been found under the W. tower-arch and preserved. The chancel, which was restored in 1874, has 14th-cent. priest’s door and window on S. side ; a 15th-cent. piscina with curious shelf in two compartments; and candle-brackets in the E. wall. It is of unusual length for pre- Norm. work. A yew-tree of great age stands in the ch.-yd., and there are some stone coffins from the priory. A Benedictine priory was founded at Breamore by Baldwin de Redvers, Earl of Devon, in the 12th cent. Here Isabella de Fortibus, the famous Lady of Wight, was buried, 1298. Traces of the foundations of the buildings, and a stone coffin, are still to be seen in “ Priory meadow,” on the W. bank of the Avon. On the downs about 1 in. N. of the Ch. is a circular “ Mizmaze,” or labyrinth 87 ft. in diameter, cut in the turf. (See Winchester , St. Catharine’s Hill.) It was pro¬ bably the work of the monks of Breamore in the 14th or 15th cent. 2 m. N., on the borders of Wilts., in Hale parish, is Downton Agri¬ cultural College (Prof. J. Wrightson, Principal), with a farm of about 600 acres, and accommodation for 45 students. Hale Ch. stands in the grounds of Hale Park (Lady Adelaide Goff). It has an Italian altar-tomb with effigies (1743), and some other monu¬ ments of the Archer family. On the N. side of Hale Park is South Charford, formerly Cerdeford, very probably the Cerdicesford of the A.-S. Chronicle, the scene of the great battle fought by Cerdic and Cynric. with the Romano-Britons, a.d. 519, by which the Celtic power in Wessex was finally broken. It once had a Ch., built in 1404 by Sir John Popliain, with the consent of the prior of Breamore, but this has entirely disappeared ; some mounds near Charford Farm are supposed to cover its remains. A MS. service-book, given to the Ch. by Sir John Popham, is now in the British Museum (Bibl. Reg. xxi.). Beyond Breamore the line passes into Wilts. At Downton is a fine large cruciform Ch., and a remark¬ able Mote or assembly-enclosure. The line then reaches SALISBURY, for which, as well as for Downton, see H.Bk.for Wilts. I Hants.'] p ( 203 ) INDEX AND DIRECTORY. This index is primarily of places only; but some of the more important persons aud subjects, specially connected with the county, are also entered, for cross-reference. Houses are not included, unless they are described, and not merely named in the text. The information as to conveyances, steamboats, &c., being subject to change, should always be compared with local time tables and information. The first number given after a name refers to the page where the place is described. The names of the most important places are printed in thick type. Figures in brackets refer to the Introduction. A. ABBOT’S ANN, 137. ABBOT’S WORTHY, 105; 59. ABBOTSTON, 58. ALDERSHOT, 44-6. Hotels : Royal, High St., near Town Stat.; Imperial, Grosvenor Road, near Ca¬ valry Barracks; Victoria (commercial), Victoria Road; Queen's , iu North Camp. Post Offices ; Town, Vic¬ toria Road; Camp (R.S.O.), Stanhope Lines. Railway Stats. : Town, S. W. R. aud S. E. R.; North Camp arid Ash Vale, S. W. R. (1± m. from •Queen’s Hotel); Aldershot North Camp , S. E. R. (1 m. from Queen's Hotel). Farn- boi’ough Stat., on the S. W. R. Main Line, is 11-2 m. from North Camp, and 3-4 from the town. Restaurant : Marsh’s, 51, High St. Refreshment Room at the North Camp Stat. Pop. ; 25,595, including 12,954 military pop. in [Hants,— vi. 98.] South Camp, and 3979 iu North Camp. ALICE HOLT, 2, 49, 50. ALRESFORD, NEW, 54-5. Inn : George. Pop. : 1464. ALRESFORD, OLD, 55, 105. ALTON, 50-1; 27, [11]. Hotel: Swan, High St. Pop. ; 4761. Market-day: Tues. ALUM CHINE, 178. ALVERSTOKE, 40; 15 (see Gosport). AMPFIELD, 107. AMPORT ST. MARY (Am- port House), 139, [11]. ANDOVER, 135-6, 147. Hotels : Star and Garter, High St. (omnibus to Junc¬ tion Stat.) ; White Hart (C.T.C.), Bridge St. Post Office : High St. Baths : Adelaide Road. Railway Stats. : Junc¬ tion, on main line to Salis¬ bury, N.W. of the town; Town, Bridge St., on branch, Andover to Southampton. Pop. : 5582. Market-day: Fri. ANDWELL, 61. ANGLESEY (see Stokes Bay), 40. APOSTLES, THE TWELVE (Burley), 188. APPLESHAW, 138. ARMSWORTH HOUSE, 55. ARNEWOOD TOWERS, 165. ASHE, 131. ASHLEY, 150. ASHMANSWORTH, 145. Austen, Jane, 27, 69, 79, 89. AVINGTON, 58. AVON TYRREL (Avon- ford), 175, 187. AWBRIDGE, 152. B. BADDESLEY, NORTH, 153. BADDESLEY, SOUTH, 190. BALKSRURY, 136, 147. BARTON CLIFFS, 166. BARTON COURT HOTEL (conveyances from Milton Stat., 1 m.), 165. Q 204 INDEX AND DIRECTORY BARTON STACEY, 146, [11]. BASING, Ch. and House (Siege of), 63-6 ; 61, [10], [ 11 ]. BASINGSTOKE, 61-3, 122, [ 11 ] Hotel: Red Lion, Lon¬ don St. Good Refreshment Room at Stat. Pop. : 8213. Market-day: Wed., and a smaller one on Sat. BAUGHURST, 68. BEACON HILL (Warn- ford), 30. BEACON HILL (Highclere), 144, [10], [14]. BEAULIEU (Abbey), 192-6 ; 121, 159, 179, 181, 190, [11], [15]. Inn: Montagu Arms. BEAULIEU ROAD STAT., 165, 179, 192. BE A UREPAIRE PARK, 123. BEAU WORTH, 57. BECKTON CLIFFS and BUNNY, 166. BEDHAMPTON, 7. BEECH HOUSE, 167. BENTLEY, 49. BENTWORTH, 51. BERE FOREST, 6, 7, [7]. BIBURY CLUB RACES, 149; 136. BIGHTON, 53-4. BINSTED, 50, [11]. BIRHOPSTOKE (see East¬ leigh ), 108-9 ; 34. BISHOP’S SUTTON, 54, [10]. BISHOP’S WALTHAM 35-6, [12]. Hotel: Crown. Pop.: 2842. BITTERN (see also Clausen- tum), 100-1, 121, 158. Omnibus from Bittern Park to Southampton hourly. BLACKMOOR, 53. BLACKWATER, 24. BLENDWORTH, 6. BOARHUNT, 39, [10]. BOLDRE, 189; 180. BOLDERWOOD, 188. BOSCOMBE (see Bourne¬ mouth ), 178 ; 175, 176. BOSHAM (Sussex), 22. BOSSINGTON, 151. BOTLEY, 34. [8], Inns : Dolphin, Railway. Pop. : 819. BOURNEMOUTH, 175-9, [7], [15]. Railway Stats. : East Stat., Holdenhurst Road (S. W. R.); West Stat., Poole Road, connected by a loop line with East Stat. (S. W. R. and Somerset and Dorset Rly., through carriages to Bath, Birmingham, and York); both Stats, about 1 m. from the Pier. Omnibuses every 10 min. from end to end of the town, from County Boundary, Westbourne, to Pokesdown, passing near to the W est Stat., and from Richmond Hill to Winton. Other omnibuses to trains at East Stat. Hotels : * Royal Bath, East Cliff, very good, and of special interest (see p. 178); also many other first-class hotels, the charges at which are naturally somewhat high ; *Mont Dore, high above the Public Gardens, with Turkish baths attached; * Hoy at Exeter, Exeter Park Road; Grand, Fir Vale, S. of Old Christchurch Road; * Imperial and Metropole, in centre^ of town. (Several hotels advertise themselves as on East Cliff; but this is 6tri 'tly true only of the Bath, which has a long monopoly.) On West Cliff, in high situa¬ tion, Highcliffe Hotel. At Boscombe there are two large first-class hotels, the Bur¬ lington and the Boscombe Chine. Hotels with a somewhat lower tariff: Central, Rich¬ mond Hill, behind the Square; Bellevue, nearest to Pier; Lansdowne, opposite to Im¬ perial ; Stewart’s Private Hotel, Richmond Hill; London and Victoria, Com¬ mercial Road; Pembroke, at E. end of Poole Hoad, “ Temperance” Hotels a- bound, owing to the strict¬ ness of the privileged licenses; the Midland, opp. to the West Stat., and Gran¬ ville, Yelverton Road, are among the largest. In Bos¬ combe there are two smaller hotel>, the Salisbury and the Tankerville. *Hrank- some Tower Hotel, with pen¬ sion, at Branksome Chine, is in a very plea-ant and quiet situation. Restaurants : Bungalow , The Square; Quadrant, The Quadrant; Criterion, Old Christchurch Road; Stone’s, Old Christchurch Road, &c. Refreshment Rooms at both Stats., and one close to Pier. Boarding - houses, or Hotels with pension at¬ tached, abound everywhere in the town; several of these are given in the Hotels named above. Among the best (the list is not exhaus¬ tive) are Bourne Hall, close to the West Stat.; West Cliff Hydropathic, West Cliff; South Cliff Hall, The Priory, Osborne, Elvaston, The Hawthorns, &c.; and at Boscombe, Linden Hall White Hall, he. Baths : Close to Pier. The Mont Dore and the West Cliff Hydropathic have pine baths, &c., attached. The Post Office is in Beck- ford Road, out of Old Christ¬ church Road. Telegraph to 10 P.M. The best Shops are mostly in Old Christchurch Road (the High St. of the town) and in the Arcade. Golf Links, he., in Mey- rick Park. Course, 18 holes. Two Golf Clubs, the Bourne¬ mouth and the Meyrick. The public may use the links (6 d. a round). Bowl¬ ing Green (3<2.) s and Cricket Ground in Park. Theatres, &c. : Theatre, Albert Road; Summer and Winter Gardens (Concerts, &c.), not far from the Pier; Band, under D. Godfrey, jun. (very good), frequently on Pier, and other Entertain¬ ments. There is a Theatre also at Boscombe. Club (good), close to Pier; visitors admitted for short periods on introduction. INDEX AND DIRECTORY, 205 Pop. : 37,781 in 1891; now probably 55,000 ; about 15,000 of these in Boscombe. Excursions: seepp. 178-9, and consult handbills. BRADLEY, 51. BRAMDEAN, 57. BRAMLEY, 122. BRAMSHAW, 188. BRAMSHILL, 25, 61, [12]. BRAMSHOTT (see Liphook ), 2 . BRANKSOME, 178. BRANSGORE, 167. BREAMORE, 200-1, [10]. Brigis (Brigae ), 150. BROAD HALFPENNY DOWN, 32. BROADLANDS (Romsey), 156; 152. BROCKENHURST, 188; 165, 179, 181, [10], [14]. Hotels : Morant Arms ; Bose and Crown 7nn. Re¬ freshment Room at Stat. Lodgings numerous. Pop, : 1298. BROOKWOOD HOUSE, 57. BROUGHTON, 150, [in]. BROWN CAN DOVER, 57. BROWNDOWN FORT, 20, 39, 40. BUCKLAND (Portsmouth), 21 . BUCKLAND RINGS, 190. BUCKLER’S HARD, i95. BURLINGTON, 146. Bunny (Chine), 166. BURGHCLERE, 144. BURITON, 5; 4. BURLEY, 188; 179. BURSLEDON, 163. BURTON, 168. BURY HILL, 136-7, [8], [10]. Bustard, the Great, 141, 174. BUTSER HILL, 7, [14]. c. CADNAM, 187-8. CiESAR’S CAMP (Alder¬ shot), 45. Calleva Attrebatum, 124, [8], [ 10 ]. CALSHOT CASTLE, 121, 196, [8], [15], CANDOVERS, The, 57. CANFORD CLIFFS, 178. Catherine of Braganza , Marriage of, 10, 18. CATHERINGTON, 8. Cerdices-ora, 34, 121, [8], CHALTON, 5. CHANDLER’S FORD, 153; 106. CHARFORD ( Cerdieesford), 201, [9]. Charles I. (see also Civil War), 38, 50, 65, 73, 191-2. Charles II., Marriage of, 10, 18. CHAWTON, 27. CHERITON, 56, [11]. CHESAPEAKE MILL, 33. CHEWTON BUNNY, 166. CHICHESTER (Sussex), 21, 22 . CHILBOLTON, 148. CHILCOMB, 104, [10]. CHILTON CANDOVER, 57. CHiLWORTH, 153 CHRISTCHURCH (Twineham), 168-174, [10], [ 11 ], [ 12 ]. Hotel: King s Arms, Castle Street (omnibus). Pop. : Of municipal borough, 3994; of parlia¬ mentary borough (which includes Bournemouth), 53,384. CHURCH OAKLEY, 131; 69. Civil War, The, 54, 56, 58, 61, 63-6, 73, 76, 95, 99, 106, 141, 142, 156, 168, 191. CLANFIELD, 5. CLATFORD, 147. Clausentum, 158; 109, 110, 111 , [ 8 ], [ 10 ]. Clere, 145. CLIDDESDEN, 68. Cobbett, Wm., 34, 48, 49, 135. COLMER (or Colemore), 28. COMBE, 142. COMPTON, 108. CORHAMPTON, 30-1; 6, [ 10 ]. COSHAM, 44 ; 6, 8, 33. Inn : George and Dragon. Pop.: 2473. Tram Cars to Portsmouth (4 m.), through Hilsea, every quarter of an hour. CRACKNOR HARD, 121. CRANBURY PARK, 107. CRAWLEY, 105. CROFTON (see Lee-on- Solent), 40. Cromwell, Oliver, 56, 58, 62-6, 73, 76, 95, 106, 141, 142. Cromwell, Richard, 106-7. CRONDALL, 49, [11]. CRUX EASTON, 145. CUMBERLAND FORT, 21. CURDRIDGE, 34. D. DANEBURY, 149; 140-1, [ 10 ]. DEAD MAN’S PLACK, 148. DEAN, EAST and WEST, 157. DEANE, 131, [11]. DENMEAD, 6. DEVIL’S DYKE, The, 137. DIBDEN, 121. D1DCOT (Berkshire), 141-2. DOGMERSFIELD, 27. 61. DOWN TON (Wilts.), 201. DROXFORD, 31-2, [10]. Inn : White Horse. Pop. : 2381. Carrier to Bishop’s Wal¬ tham Stat. daily. DUMMER, 69. DUNBRIDGE, 151, 157. DUNWOOD, 157. DURLEY, 34. DURLEY CHINE, 178. 206 INDEX AND DIRECTORY 22 . EAST ANTON, 135. EAST DEAN, 157. EASTLEIGH, 108 ; 634, 153. Hotel: Junction (managed by Spiers and Pond). Re¬ freshment Rooms at Stat. Pop. : In 1891, 3582 ; since then probably doubled. EAST MEON, 29; 5, [7], [ 10 ], [ 11 ]. EASTON, 105; 59, [11]. EAST S0UTHSEA (see Ports- mouth ), 7. EAST STRATTON, 70. EAST TISTED, 28. EAST TYTHERLY, 157. EAST WELLOW, 157. EAST WORLDHAM, 51. ECCHINSWELL, 144. EAST WOODHAY, 142. EGBURY HILL, 135, [10]. ELDON, UPPER, 152. ELING, 164. Elizabeth, Queen, 47, 60, 90, 15 9. ELLINGHAM, 198-9. ELLISFIELD, 69. ELSON, 20. ELVETHAM, 60. EMBLEY PARK, 157. EMERY DOWN, 185. EMPSHOTT, 4, 5, 53. EMSAVORTH, 22. Inn : Crown, High St. Pop.: 1881. EVERSLEY, 25, 61, [11]. EWHURST, 68. EX BURY, 196. EXTON, 30. F. F ACCOM BE, 145. FAREHAM, 36 ; 33, 163. Hotel: Red Lion , East St. (omnibus). Refresh¬ ment Room at Stat. Pop. : 7934. Market-day : Mon. FARLEIGH AVALLOP, 69. FARLEY CHAMBER- LAYNE, 152. FARLINGTON, 7. FARNBOROUGH (see also Aldershot), 59-60. The Queen’s Hotel, North Camp, is about 1^ m. dis¬ tant. Pop. : 4092. FARNHAM (Surrey), 46-49. Hotels; Bu h (see p. 4s *, omnibus); 1Aon and Lamb. Pop. : 12,367. Market-day : Tlmrs. FAKRINGDON, 28. F AAA 7 LEY, 196; 112. F1NCHDEAN, 6. FLEET (Fleet Pon»), 60. Fonts, the AV incheater group of, 77 ; 29, 115, 134. FORDINGBRIDGE, 200, [11], Inns : Greyhound (omni¬ bus), Crown i Railway . Pop. : 2400. FORT BROCKHURST STAT., 39. FORTON (see Gosport), 12. FOXCOTT, 137. FRATTON, 7, 18, 21, 44. FREEFOLK PRIORS, 132. FREEFOLK SYFREWAST, 132. FREEMANTLE PARK, 145. FR1MLEY STAT. (Surrey), 59. FROXFIELD, 5. FROYLE, 50. FULLERTON, 133, 147, 148. FUNTLEY, 36, 37. FYF1EL1), 139. 0 . GILLK1CKER, 20, 40. GODSFIELD, 55. GOODAVORTH CLATFORD, 147. GOSPORT (see also Ports- mouth), \5~\§, 33, 40, [13] Railway Stats. : Gosport (North St., near Barracks); Gosport Road and Aloer - stoke (Stoke Road, | m. AV.). Hotel : Star, High St. [Visitors may prefer to stay at the Portsmouth or South- sea Hotels, or at the Anglesey Hotel, 1 m. fiom Gosport Road Stat.] No Refresh - ment Room at either Stat. Tramway Cars from the Hard (Portsmouth Ferry) along High St. to Forton and Brockhurst every 10 min. Omnibus to Alverstoke and Anglesey every hour. Floating Bridge (Id.) to Portsmouth (Point, near High St.) every i hour. Steam Launches to Ports¬ mouth (id.)and Portsmouth Harbour Stat. (id.) about every 10 min. Post Office : 114, High St. Pop. (with Alverstoke); 10,731. GRANGE, The. 57. GRATELEY, 140, [11]. GREATHAM, 4, 5. GREYAVELL (or Gke- WELL), 27. GUILDFORD (Surrey), 46. GUNDIMORE, 16*. Gwent, 71, [7], [14]. INDEX AND DIRECTORY 207 H. HACKWOOD HOUSE, 68 . HALE, 2 1 . HAMBLEDON, 32, [ 11 ] (see Havant). HAMBLE (LE-RICE) and CREEK, 163 5 34, [ 8 ], [ 10 ], Dty HAMPAGE WOOD, 58, 75. HAMPSHIRE GAP, 141. HANNINGTON, 68 . HARBRIDGE, 199. HARD WAY, 20 . HAREWY)OD FOREST, 148. HARTFORD BRIDGE (see Hartley Row), 24. HARTLEY MAUDITT, 61. HARTLEY ROW (Hart- LEY WlNTNEY), 25, 61. Inns : Lamb (omnibus from Winch field Stat., lfm., 5 times a day) ; White Lion at Hartford Bridge. HARTLEY WESPALL, 123. Havant, 6 5 2 , 44 . Hotel: Bear, East St. Ref reshment Room at Stat. Post Office: West St. Omnibus, at 6.50 p.m. to Hambledon. Market-day: Tues. Pop. : 3474. HAWKLEY (Ch. and Hanger), 4, 5, 28, 53, [14]. HAYLING ISLAND, 23-4, [15], Railway Stat. : South Hayling (in West Town , $ m. from shore)? also a small Stat. at North Hay ling, Hotels : Royal, on shore , (omnibus from Stat.); West Town (near Stat.). Telegraph at Stat. and uear the beach. Post Office : Beach ; an¬ other Post Office (not tele¬ graph) at West Town. Baths : On the beach. Pop. : 1495. HEADBOURNE WORTHY, 105; 59, [10], [11]. HEADLEY, 2. HECKFIELD, 131. HENGISTBURY HEAD, 174, 179. Henry III,, Birth of, 72, 98. Henry IV., Marriage of, 73. Henry VI., Marriage of, 37, 41, 43. HERON (HERNE) COURT, 197 ; 175. H1GHCLERE (Castle), 142-4, [15]. HIGHCLIFFE, 167. HILSEA, 44. HINTON ADMIRAL, 167. HINTON AMPNER, 56. HODDINGTON HOUSE, 69. HOLDENHURST, 175-6. HOLMSLEY, 188; 179. HOLYBOURNE, 50. HOOK (near Odiham), 61; 15. Omnibus to Odiham at most trains. HOOK (on Hamble), 163. Hop-growing, 48, 138. HORDLE, 166, 190. HORNDEAN, 8. HORSEBRIDGE, 150. Hospitallers, the Knights, 55, 93, 153. HOUGHTON, 150. HOUND, 162. HtJNTON, 146; 70. HURN (HERNE), 197; 175. HURSLEY, 106-7, 153. 3 m. from Chandle ’s Ford Stat, ; 4} m. from Winchester. HURSTBOURNE PARK, 133-4, [15]. HURSTBOURNE PRIORS, 134, 148. HURSTBOURNE TAR¬ RANT, 135. HURST CASTLE, 191-2, [10], [11]. HYDE, 199. HYDE ABBEY Iscc Win¬ chester), 97 ; 58. HYTHE, 121, 192. Inn : Drummond Arms. Steam Ferry to Southamp¬ ton Pier about every hour. Yacht Club House on Pier. I. 1BBESLEY, 199. IDSWORTH, 5, 6 . 1FORD, 175. INKPEN BEACON, 112, [13]. ITCHEN ABBAS, 58. ITCHEN STOKE, 58. J. JESUS CHAPEL, 168. Jutes, The , 29, [8]. 208 INDEX AND DIRECTORY, K. Kempenfelt, Admiral, 11. KEMPSHOTT HOUSE, 69. Ken, Bp., 88 , 93, 142, 143. KILMESTON, 57. KIMPTON, 139. XINGSCLERE, 144-5, [10], [13]. Inn: Swan. Pop.: 1128. (From Burghclere Stat., 4 m.; from Overton Stat., 5£ m.) KINGSLEY, 50. KING’S SOMBORNE, 150. KINGSTON (Portsmouth), 18, 21 . KING’S WORTHY, 105; 59, 97, 146. KNIGHT'S ENHAM, 137. Knights Hospitallers (of St. John), 55, 93, 153. Knights Templar, 53. KNOWLE, 86. L. LADLE HILL, 144, [ 10 ]. LAINSTON, 105. LAM BOROUGH FIELD, 56. LA.\DPORT (6ee Forts- mouth), 5. LANGUISH, 6 . LANGSTON (Harbour), 23; 7, 8. LASHAM, 51. LAVERSTOKE, 132. LECKFORD, 149. LEE-ON-THE-SOLENT, 39; 21 , 121 . Railway (light) to Fort Brockhurst Stat. Steam Launoh about 4 times daily in summer to Stokes Bay, Portsmouth, and Southsea. Hotel: Victoria. The parish Ch. is at Crof- ton. LEIGH PARK, 7. LEPE, 196. LINKENHOLT, 145. LIPHOOK, 2 , 3. Inn : Anchor. Lisle, Lady Alice, 199. LISS, 4, 51, 53. Inns: Station, at Stat.; Spread Eagle , West Liss. LITCHFIELD, 145. LITTLE SOMBORNE, 150. LITTLETON, lu5. LOCKERLEY, 157. LONGPARISH, 148. LONGSTOCK, 149. LONG SUTTON, 27. LOWER FARRINGDON, 28. LUDGERSHALL (Wilts), 141. LYMINGTON, 189-90. Railway Stats.: Town; Pier (across the river). Steamers from Pier Stat. in i hour, 5-7 times a day, to Yarmouth, I. W.; in summer some of them ex¬ tended to Totland Bay and Alum Bay. Omnibus twice daily in summer to Milford from Town Stat., calling at Bugle Inn, High St. Hotels: Angel; Londes- borough, both in High St.; omnibus from both. Baths (sea-water): Bath Road. Pop.: 4551. Market-day j Sat. LYNDHURST, 184-5; 179, 192. 2 J m. from Lyndburst Road Stat.; omnibus from Crown Hotel to most trains. Carriages at Stat. Hotels: Crown , once a charming country Inn, now a large and rather noisy, but good Hotel; Grand, new, well spoken of; Fox and Hounds, smaller; New Forest, opp. to Lyndhurst Road Stat. (noisy, and over¬ run by trippers). Numerous Ref reshment Rooms. Pop.: 1867. LYNDHURST ROAD STAT., 165, 179. M. MALSHANGER, 131. MALWOOD, 185-6. MAPLEDERWELL, 61. MAPLEDURHAM, 5. MARCHWOOD, 164 ; 121. Margaret of Anjou , 37, 41, 43. 193. MARK ASH, 185. MARTYR WORTHY, 105; 59. MAR WELL, Hall and Manor Farm, 108. Mary, Queen, Marriage of 95, 113. MATTINGLEY, 25. MAULTH WAY, The, 49. Mazes, 104, 201. MEDSTEAD, 53. MEON STOKE, 31, [11]. Meonwaras (Mean Valley), The, 29, 31. MERDON CASTLE, 106. MICHELDEVER, 70. MICHELMERSH, 152. MILFORD-ON-SEA, 165, 181, 190, [11]. Hotels : Victoria, on beach, good and quiet; Red INDEX AND DIRECTORY 209 Lion Inn, in village. Dis¬ tance from Milton or Ly- mington Stats, about 4 m. Omnibus twice daily in summer from Lymington. MILLBROOK, 114, 164. MILTON, 165. Inn : Wheatsheaf; con¬ veyances can be had to Mil¬ ford or Barton Court Hotel. MINSTEAD, 185. MONKSTON, 139. MONKS (ok MONK) SHER¬ BORNE, 67. Monmouth, DuTce of, 197. MONTEAGLE FARM, 24. MOORDOWN, 178. MOOR PARK (Surrey), 48. MORESTFAD, 108. MORTIMER (Berks), 123; 26. MOTTISFONT, 151; 62, 157, [ 11 ]. MOYLES COURT, 199. MUDEFORD, 167. MUSCLIFFE, 177. N. NATELY SCURES, 61, [ 10 ]. NELSON COLUMN, The, 39. NETIIERTON, 145. NETHER WALLOP, 140. NETLEY, 159-162; 121 , [ 11 ]. Abbey (open every day), 1 m. ; Hospital, -£ m. from Stat. Abbey, 3 m. by Floating Bridge from South¬ ampton. Inn: Nightingale ; a Coffee Room in Victoria Roa<1. NETLEY MARSH (by Eling), 180; 159, 165. NEWNHAM, 61. NEWBURY (Berks), 142. NEW FOREST, THE, 179- 189 ; 164, [7]—[15]. NEWTON VALENCE, 28. NEWTOWN, 142. Nightingale, Florence, 157. NORMAN COURT, 157. NORSBURY RING, 146. NORTHAM, 110 , 164. NORTH BADDFSLEY, 153. NORTH CAMP STATS. (Aldershot), 44. NORTH HAYLING, 23, [11] (see Hayling Island). NORTHINGTON, 57-8. NORTH STONEHAM, 109, 113. NORTH WALTHAM, 69. NURSLING, 152. NUTLEY, 69. 0 . OAKLEY, Church, 131 ; 69. ODIHAM, 26, 61, [ 11 ]. Hotel : George. Omnibus 5 times daily to Hook Stat. (If m.), and 4 times to Winchfield Stat. (2i m.). Pop. : 2667. OLD WINCHESTER HILL, 31, [10]. OTTERBOURNE, 108 ; 106. OVERTON, 132. Inn : White Hart. Pop.: 1498. OVER WALLOP, 140. OVINGTON, 58. OWSLEBURY, 107-8. OXENDROVE, The, 135. P. Palmerston, Lord, 156. PAMBER, 68. PARK, 196. PARKSTONE (Dorset), 178. PAULSGROVE QUAY, 43. PENTON GRAFTON, 138. PENTON MEWSEY, 138. PETERSFIELD. 4: 2 , 7, 28. Hotels : Dolphin (omni¬ bus) ; Red Lion (C.T.C.); Railway, at Stat. Pop. : 2002. Market-day: Wed. (alter¬ nate). Philip of Spain, Marriage of, 95, 113. PICKET POST, 188. Pictures ( Galleries , dec.'), 36, 70, 107, 129-30, 133-4, 156, 197, 198. PI TTLEW ORTH, 152. PLACE HOUSE (Titch- field), 37, 163, [12]. POKESDOWN, 178 ; 175. POOLE (Dorset), 178, 179. POPHAM (Beacon), 70: 69. PORTBRIDGE CREEK (Lake), 21. P0RTCHESTER, 40-3; 8 , 21, 24, [8], [10], [11]. Inn : Railway. Steam Launch from Ports¬ mouth daily in summer. PORTON (Wilts), 141. PORTSDOWN (Hill and Forts), 19 ; 8, 38-9, [14]. PORTSEA ISLAND, 21. PORTSEA (see Portsmouth). 210 INDEX AND DIRECTORY. PORTSMOUTH, 8-21, 7, 43, 113, [7], [9]-[ll]> [13], [15]. See Index on p. 8. Railway Stats. : Town, in Commercial Road, Land- poit, close to Town Hall ; Harbour, on Portsea Hard, near Dockyard and Gun Wharf, with covered way to Isle of Wight boats; Fratton Stat., in E. part of the town, whtnce a branch line runs to Hast Southsea ; all be¬ longing jointly to the L. & S. W., and L. B. & S. C. Rlys. Steamers to Ryde, Bem- bridge, Southampton, &c., from the Harbour Stat. fre¬ quently. Some of the Rly. Companies boats to Ryde run direct, but the others call at Clarence Pier, South- sea. Steamers to London, Plymouth, and Dublin, twice weekly; to Liverpool once. Floating Bridge from The Point (end of Broad St.) to Gosport Hard every i hour; Steam Launches from the same every 10 min.; from Harbour Stat. to Gosport Hard every 7 min. Tramways run along most of the principal thoroughfares; from Dock¬ yard Gates, The Point, Clarence Pier, and Beach Mansions (near South Parade Pier), as far as to Cosham, whence there are omnibuses to Waterloo, Pur- brook, &c. The principal meeting-points are at the Town Stat., and at Cam¬ bridge Junction, E. end of High St. Omnibuses also from Town Stat. to Dock¬ yard, and from Cambridge Junction to Havelock Park, New Southsea. Hotels : George, High St.; Star and Garter, Broad St. (near the Point); Central, opp. to Town Stat. ; Kep- pel’s Head, Portsea Hard; TotterdelVs, Ordnance Row (both these near Harbour Stat.); York and Pier, High St.; Bedford, 13(5, Commercial Road; Speed¬ well (“ Temperance ”), opp. to Town Stat. For a stay of more than a night the hotels at Southsea (which see) are preferable. Restaurants, &c. ; Speed- tvell, opp. to Town Stat., and several others in the neighbourhood, and on the Hard. Refreshment Rooms at both Stats. Baths : Corporation, Park Road, near Gun Wharf (see also Southsea). Post and Telegraph Offices : Head Office, opp. to Town Stat., always open; Portsea Hard, and 87, High St., till 9 p.m. Clubs : Royal Naval, 23, Pembroke Road; Royal Corinthian Yacht Club, 33, High Sr. Visitors can be admitted on introduction. Theatres : Royal, Com¬ mercial Road; Prince’s, Lake Road, Landport; Em¬ pire Music Hall, Edinburgh Road, Landport. Cricket and Tennis Ground : United Service, Cambridge Road. Pop. : Of borough, both municipal and parliamen¬ tary, including the whole of Port-ea Island, 159,251. Of these only 8000 are in Ports¬ mouth proper; about 40,000 in Southsea, and 100,000 in Portsea, which includes Landport. PORTSWOOD, 110. Portus Magnus , 41, [8], [10]. PORT WAY, The, 135. PRESTON CANDOVER, 57. PRIDDY’S HARD, 20. PRIOR’S DEAN, 28. PRIVETT, 29 PRIVETT FORT, 39 PURBROOK, 8. Q. QUARLEY, 140, [8], [10], [15]. QUEENWOOD COLLEGE, 157. QU1DHAMPTON, 132. R. REDBRIDGE, 164; 147, 152. Inn : Ship. RED RICE HOUSE, 147. RINGWOOD, 197, [11]. Hotels : Crown, Friday’s Cross; White Hart, Market Place (omnibus from both). Pop. : 4028. Market-day : Wed. ROCKBOURNE, 200. Roman Remains, 3, 6, 31, 41, 42, 49, 71, 105, 109, 110, 123-9, 131, 135, 136, 139, 140, 146, 151, 158, [8], [10]. ROMSEY, 153-6; 152, [10], [ 11 ]. Hotel : White Horse , Market P ace (omnibus). Pop. : 5483. Market-day: Thurs. ROOKLEY, 105. ROPLEY, 53. ROTHERWICK, 61. ROWLAND’S CASTLE, 6; 2 . Inn : Fountain. INDEX AND DIRECTORY. 211 l ROWNER (Fort), 40 ; 20. ROVYNHAMS, 152. Royal George ,, Lass of, 10, 11; RUFUS" STONE, 186. §. ST. CATHARINE’S HIDE (Winchester), 104, 147, [14] . ST. CATHARINE’S HILL (Christchurch), 174, 197, [15] - ST. CROSS, 10fr-4, 1C7, 147, [ 10 ], [ 11 ]. 1 m troxii Wmche ter. ST. DENYS, llOi 158. ST. LEONARD’S PRIORY, 196. ST. MARY BOURNE, 134, [ 11 ]- St. Swithurt, Translation of, 82; 75. SA LISBURY (Wiltshire), 141. 157, 201. SANDHURST (Royal Mili¬ tary College), 24. SANDLEFORD PRIORI^ (Berks), 142. SARISBURY, 163. Scott, Sir Walter, 168. SCURES (Nateley Scares), 61. SELBORNE,-51-3 ; 4, 5, [11], [14]. Inn : Queen's Arms. From Alton byroad i early 5 m.; by footpath, 4 m. STIALDEN, 51.- SHAW FORD, 107, 147'. SHEDF1ELI) (Shideield), 34. SHEET, 4. SHERBORNE, MONK, 67'. [Hants.— vi. 98.] SHERBORNE ST. JOHN, 66 , [ 11 ]. SHERFIELD ENGLISH, 157. SHERF1ELD - ON -LODDON, 123. SH1PTON BELLINGER, 140 1 . SHIRLEY, 114, 164. SHOEING, 158. SIDDOWN HILL, 143-4. SILCHESTER, 123-9, [8], [10], [15]. Inn: Crown, on Common, i m. from the W. Gate. Distances : About 31 m. from either Mortilh r or Bromley Stat. ; 71 m. from Basingstoke. Conveyances call be hired at (he Railway Inn, Mortimer, and there are often brakes there in summer. SOBERTON, 32,- [11]. SOMERLEY PARK, 197, [15}. SOPLEY, 175, 179, 197. SOUTHAMPTON,- 110-122, 71-3, 147, 152, 158-9, 164, [73- [17], See Index on p. 110. Railway Stats. : Bocks, Terminus of S. W. R.; the carriages of the special boat trains are, however, carried on alongside of the vessels in dock; terminus also of t ie G. W. R. from- Didcot, and the Mid. & S. W. Junct, Rly.- from Chelt nbam ; West End, on Western Shore, about It m. from Docks, 1 m. from Pier, on S. W. R. main i ne to Bournemouth; the Mid. & S. W. Junct. trains pass thrOhgh it also to the Docks; Bier, to which the trains for Isle of Wight 1 Wats are con¬ tinued along the streets from' the Docks Stat. There are also smaller Stats, at Nor- tham, in- New Road, and St. Deny % the northern suburb. Tramways run from t' e Docks Stat. to High St’., some going along Commer¬ cial Hoad and near ike W est End Stat. to Freemantle and Shirley ; oihers by The Avenue to St. Denys Stat. and Portswood. Omnibuses from- Pier generally on arrival of the boats to West End Stat.; between the Floating Bridge and the Common every f hour ; from Bittern Park to the town hourly. Hotels : Southampton is particularly well provided with good hotels: South Western, at Docks Stat. ; Radley's, opposite to Stat. ; Royal, 12, Above Bar, and Crohn, 14, High St., loth belonging to Southampton Hotels Co;; Dolphin, 35, High St. (old established); Star, 26, High St.; Pier (small), close to Pier ; Kel- way’s Oriental, Queen’s Park, between the Decks and Hier. Restaurants : Swiss Cafe, 140, High St. (good); Re¬ freshment Rooms at both Docks and We t End Stats, Telegraph Office, opp. to Docks Stat. (always open); Head Post Office, 57, High St. Mail Steamers : see p. 117. Steamers to Cowes, Ryde, and Portsmouth, from Pier. Steam Ferry to Hytke, from West Quay , near Pier, nearly evet y hour. Floating Bridge to Woolston from Bridge Road (J m. E. of Docks Staff.) every 10 min. front' 5 a.m. to midnight. Baths : Corporation Pub¬ lic, n -ar West End Stat., on shore (good). Theatres : Prince of Wales, < gle Road, Ab >ve Bar; Pavilion Music Hall, Above Bar, <\c. Concerts, &c.-, at times iu Pier Pavilion. Hartley Museum and Library, High St., open daily (Tuesdays 6tL). Clubs : Royal Southern Yacht, close to Pier ; Royal Southampton Yacht, 61, Above Bar. County Cricket Ground, Banister Park, W. of the Avenue. Pop.: Of municipal borough 65,325 ; of parliamentary borough (which includes Millbrook, and the suburbs across the Ferry from Bit¬ tern to Netley), 93,589. Market - days : Cattle, Wed;; Corn, Frid. R 212 INDEX AND DIRECTORY SOUTHBOURNE - ON - SEA, 174, 178. Hotel: South Cliff ( good). Omnibus to principal trains at Christchurch Slot. (U m.)- Excursion Brakes fre¬ quently from the Square, Bournemouth, in summer. Pop. : 565. SOUTH HAYLING (see Hay- ling Island ), 24, [11]. SOUTHSEA, 12-13 ; 7, 20, 24, [15] (see also Portsmouth). Railway Stat. : East Southsea, Granada Road, on a branch from Fratton. Most of Southsea is, how¬ ever, best reached trom Portsmouth Town Stat. Tramways : From Clar¬ ence Pier and Beach Man¬ sions (near South Parade Pier) to PorGmouth Town Stat., Dockyard, Cosham, &c. Steamers to Isle of Wight, Bembridge, and Southamp¬ ton, from Clarence Pier. Excursion steamers in sum¬ mer also from South Parade Pier, and the Bembridge steamers call here. Hotels: Pier, on Com¬ mon, facing the Pier (good) ; Queen’s, on Common, end of Osborne Road (same man¬ agement) ; Grosvenor, also on Common; Beach Man¬ sions (with pension), near South Parade Pier ; Es¬ planade, adjoining Clarence Pier; Westminster, near Common ; Sandringham (Private Hotel and Boarding House), near Common. Refreshment Rooms on both Piers. Entertainments : Con¬ certs, and Band, on Clarence Pier frequently in summer; a Concert Room also on South Pier. Post and Telegraph Office: 7, Marmion Boad, near St. Jude’s Ch., open till 10 p.m. Swimming Club en¬ closures (ladies and gentle¬ men) on the beach ; visitors admitted by payment. Turkish Baths: 24, King's Terrace. SOUTH BADDKSLEY, 190. SOUTH CHARFORI), 201. SOUTH STONEHAM, 109. SOUTH TED WORTH, 141. SOUTHWICK, 43; 9, 37,42. SOW LEY, 196. SPARSHOLT, 105. SPITHEAD, 18 ; 9, 17. STANBRIDGE, 157. STANDON, 106. STANSTED, Park and Forest (Sussex), 6. STEEP, 5. ST EVEN TON, 69; 27. STOCKBRIDGE, 149. Hotel: Grosvenor (a Fish¬ ing Club here). Pop.: 879. STOKE CHARITY, 146 ; 70, [ 11 ]. STOKES BAY, 40 ; 21. Hotel : Anglesey, i m. from Pier. STONEHAM, NORTH and SOUTH, 139, 113. STONER HILL, 6, 28. STONY CROSS, 186 ; 179. Inn : Compton Arms. STRATF1ELD MORTIMER, 123. STRATFIELD SAYE, 129- 30 ; 26. STRATFIELD TURGIS, 130- 1. STRATTON, EAST, 70. STRATTON PARK, 70. SUTTON SCOTNEY, 146; 70. SWANMORE, 36. SWAN WICK, 163. SVYARRATON, 58. SWAY, 165, 190. SWAYTHLING, 109. SYDMONTON, 144. T. TADLEY, 68. TALBOT WOODS, 179. TANGLEY, 137. TATCHBURY MOUNT, 164. TEDWORTTI (Tidworth), 141. Templars, Tice, 53. Thiron, Abbey of, 61, 163. THRUXTON, 138-9, [11]. TICHBORNE, 55-6, [11]. TIDBURY RING, 146. TIMSBURY, 152. TISTED, EAST, 28. LISTED, WEST, 54.- TITCHFIELD, 36-8, [J1], [ 12 ]. Inn : Bugle. Pop. : 1554. Omnibus twice daily to Fareham Stat. (2 m,). TOTTON, 164. Omnibus once daily to Southampton. TROTTON (Sussex), 4. TUFTON, 133, 146. TUN WORTH, 69. TWYFORD, 107, 147. TYRREL’S FORD, 175. TYTHERLEY, EAST and WEST, 157. INDEX AND DIRECTORY 213 U. UPHAM, 108. UP-NATELY, 61. UPPER CLATFORD, 147 [ 10 ]. UPPER ELDON, 152. UPTON GREY, 69. V. VAN DYKE, 148. Venta Belgarum, 71, [8], [10]. VERNHAMS DEAN, 145. Vindomis, 67, 135, [10]. VINE, The, 67 ; 66, 151, [12]. W. WALBURY CAMP, 142. Wallop Family, The, 53, 69, 134, 142. Waltham Blades, The, 35; 3. WALTHAM CHASE, 35, [7]. WALTHAM, NORTH, 69. WARBLINGTON, 22, [11]. WARN BOROUGH, NORTH and SOUTH, 27. WARNFORD, 30; 5, [12]. Inn : George. WARSAS1I, 163. WATERLOO, 8. Inn : Waterloo Hotel; omnibus from Cosham every hour. WAVERLEY ABBEY (Sun. KEY), 49. WEEK (Wike), 104, [11]. WELLOW, EAST and WEST, 157. WESTBOURNE (Bourne¬ mouth), 178. WESTBOURNE (Sussex), 22 . WESTBURY PARK, 29. WEST DEAN, 157. WEST END, 109. WEST MEON, 29, 57. WEST MOORS ST AT. (Dor¬ set), 196. WESTON, 158-9. WESTON PATRICK, 69. WEST TISTED, 54; 28. WEST TYTHERLY, 157. WEST WELLOW, 157. WEST WORLDHAM, 51. WEYHILL, 137-8. Inn : Star. The great Fair begins Oct. 10, and lasts six days. Wellington, the Duke of, 129- 30. WHALE ISLAND, 15. WIIERWELL, 148; 133. WHITCHURCH, 132-3, 146. Railway Stats.; S. W. R. (Basingstoke to Salisbury), N. of town ; G. W. R. (Did- cot to Southampton), W. of town. Hotel : White Hart, Mar¬ ket Place. Pop.: 2110. White, Gilbert, 2, 3, 28, 50-2, 63. WICKES ROW, 108. WICKHAM, 33. WIDLEY, 43. WIELD (or WEALD), 53. William Bufus, death, and Tomb of, 79, 80, 81, 175, 181, 186-7. WINCHESTER, 71-100; 47, 56, 104, 113, 146-7, 186-7, [ 8 ]—[ 12 ]. See Index on p. 71. Railway Stats. : S. W. R. , Station Hill (to High St. go by City Road and Jewry St.) ; G. W. R. (Didcot to Southampton), St. Giles’s Hill, in Cheese- hill St., across the bridge. (Trains from both to South¬ ampton.) Omnibuses at both Stats., which are 1 m. apart. Hotels : *George, High St., corner of Jewry St., poo *, mostly newly built, but established before 1500; Eoyal, St. Peter’s St.; Black Swan, 65, High St. Refreshment Room at S. W. stut. Restaurants: City, 6, Jewry St., and others iu High St. Post Office; Parchment St., open till 10 p.m. Cathedral Services : Sun¬ days, 8, 11, and 3.15 ; week days, 10 a.m. ; and 3 p.m., summer, 4 p.m. winter. Baths: Public, Silver Hi 1. Museum: Guildhall, 10-1, 2-5, on week days. Pop. : 19.073. Market-day : Sat. (corn). WINCH FIELD, 60; 26. W1NKTON, 175. WINSLADE, 68. WINTON, 176. WOLMER FOREST, 2-4, 53. WOLVERTON, 68. WOLVESEY CASTLE (see Winchester'), 94. WONSTON, 146; 70. WOODCOT, 145. WOODCOTE, 57. WOODGARSTON, 132. WOODHAY, 142. WOODMANCOTE, 70. WOOLSTON, 158. WOOLSTON HILL, 142. WOOTTON ST. LAW¬ RENCE, 132. WORLDBURY RING, 150, [ 10 ]. WORLDHAM, EAST and WEST, 51. WORTHYS, The, 105 ; 59. WORTING, 69, 131. WYKE, 135. Wykeham, Bp. Wm. of, 33; 31, 32, 35, 37, 53, 61,*87, 89- 93, 143. WYMERING, 43. Y. Y A RMOUTH (Isle or Wight), 189. YATELEY, 24. YORK TOWN, 24. Yttne, ISO. LONDON : RINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED,, STAMFORD ST REST AND CHARING CROSS- Murray’s Handbook ADVERTISER, 1900 - 1901 , CONTAINING USEFUL INFORMATION FOR TRAVELLERS, RAILWAY AND STEAMBOAT COMPANIES, HOTELS, AND MISCELLANEOUS ADVERTISEMENTS. 2 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, COMPAGNIEdesNIESSAGERIES maritimes . . . FRENCH POSTAL STEAMERS. DEPARTURES FRQ31 MARSEILLES. MAIN LINES. A B INDIA. CHINA. JAPAN. Bombay ... ... ... Direct Port Said, Suez, Aden, Bombay, 1 Colombo, Singapore, Saigon, Hong I Kong, Shanghai, Nagasaki, Kobe, ( Yokohama ... ... ... .... J Port Said, Suez, Djibouti, Colombo, Singapore, Saigon, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Nagasaki, Kobe, Yoko¬ hama ... BRANCH LINES. MAIN LINE. Connecting at Colombo with the China Main Line A. MAIN LINES. BRANCH LINES. Colombo to Pondicherry, Madras, Calcutta . Singapore to Batavia... Singapore to Satnarang Saigon to Tonquin Ports Saigon to Singapore ... AUSTRALIA & NEW~CALEDONIA. Port Said, Suez, Colombo, King George’s Sound, Adelaide, Mel¬ bourne, Sydney, Noumea .. INDIAN - OCEAN ’ LINES. ' Port Said, Suez, Djibouti, Zanzibar, Mutsamudu or Moroni, Mayotte, Majunga, Nossi-Be, Diego-Suarez, ^ Tamatave, Reunion, Mauritius ... Port Said, Suez, Djibouti, Aden, Diego- Suarez, Sainte-Marie, Tamatave, Reunion, Mauritius. /Zanzibar to Dar-es-Salam, Ibo, Mo-1 zambique, Inhambane. j Diego-Suarez to Nossi-Be, Analalave, Majunga, Muintirano, Morundava, Ambohibe', and Tulear. Diego-Suarez to Mozambique, Beira, Lourent^o-Marques, and Natal 25 th of each Month Connecting with mail of the 10 th of each month. Connecting with mail of the 25 th of each Month MEDITERRANEAN.— Weekly departures for Alexandria, Port Said, Beyrout, Syrian Ports, Pirams, Smyrna, Constantinople, Black Sea (Odessa, Novorossisk, Batoum, &c.). Fortnightly for Jaffa, Salonica, Syra, Patras, Suda Bay, and Naples. Every 28 days Every 28 days Every 28 days Every 28 days Every Mail Every 28 days Every Week Every Mail Every 28 days 10 th of each Month BRAZIL and RIYER PLATE. DEPARTURES FROM BORDEAUX. For Corunna, Lisbon, Dakar, Rio \ Janeiro, Montevideo & Buenos Ayres / For Vigo, Lisbon, Dakar, Pernam¬ buco, Bahia, Rio Janeiro, Monte¬ video and Buenos Ayres. Every 28 days Every 28 days Offices. —Paris: 1, Rue Vignon ; Marseilles: 16, RueCannebiere; Bordeaux: 20, Allees d’Orleans ; London : 97, Cannon Street, E.C. 1900. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. AJACCIO - (CORSICA). The CYRNOS PALACE HOTEL THIRST-CLASS ENGLISH FAMILY HOTEL. Most Elevated and Sheltered Position. In lull view ot the Gulf and surrounding Mountains. Large Oran ere Garden. Pension terms irom 10 Francs. -r-, L E. EXNEH, Proprietor. During Summer at Hotel Royal aud de Saussure, Chamonix. ALGIERS. MUSTAPHA - SUPERIOR. HOTEL CONTINENTAL ET D'ORIENT. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, Full South, Splendid View. Four Acres of Garden, Tenni3 Court. English Billiard Table, Calorifkre, Excellent Drainage, Hydraulic Lift, Ascenseur. Omnibus on Arrival of Steamers. Printed Tariffs sent on Application, _ J. HILDEISTBRAHD, Proprietor and Manager. ALGIERS. HOTEL DE LA REGENGE. First-class Hotel in every respect, only one facing full south, unrivalled situation. Family Hotel for long or short stay. Sanitary arrange¬ ments English. Hydraulic Lift. Swiss Manager- IONS. F. MARTY. Cook’s Coupons accepted. During the Season please telegraph for Rooms. AVRANCHES. GRAND HOTEL DE FRANCE. T HIE most frequented and the most comfort¬ able. Good Cooking. Renowned Cellar. Omnibus at Station. Comfortable apartments for families. English Papers. Splendid Sculptures, Louis XVI. Carriages for Mont St. Michel. Cook s Tourists' Hotel. EMILE PINE A U, Proprietor. AMIENS. HOTEL DE FRANCE, D’ANCLETERRE, AND DE L’EUROPE. F IRST-CLASS HOTEL, close to the Cathedral, the Museum, and other Public Buildings. Having been recently newly furnished, it offers great comfort. Families and Single Gentlemen accommodated with convenient Suites of Apartments and Single Rooms. Omnibus at the Station. English spoken. AMSTERDAM. AMSTEL HOTEL THE LARGEST HOTEL IN THE TOWN. Patronized by the highest class of English Travellers STRONGLY RECOMMENDED TO FAMILIES. Every Modern Comfort, combined with Moderate Prices. AMSTERDAM. BRACK’S DOELEN HOTEL. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL WITH EVERY COMFORT. 4 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Mav, ANDERMATT, Climatic Summer Health Resort, St. Gotthard, 1,444 metres above sea, | of an hour distant from Goschenen (G.B.) Railway Station. f(/ . r mii i Schollenen (Furka—Wallis & Grimsel). KOU'lE: Goschenen { Teufelsbpftcke (obeI .halp-Coire,. GRAND HOTEL AND PENSION BELLEVUE. splendid park grounds. Fitted and furnished according to all modern requirements. 150 Booms and Saloons with Balconies and Verandahs. Pleasant Health Resort. ■ DCOTAIID AMTO vnilDlOTC _Favourite house for travellers and guests HOTEL RESTAURANTS TOURISTE.— with moderate requirements. Elegant Cafe. Munich and Warteck beers on draught. Glass gallery. Cheap prices. OMNIBUS and carriage at the Goschenen Station. Propr. GEBR. MULLLR (from Hotel Furka). ANTWERP. HOTEL DE HOLLANDE. rpHIS well-known and home-like Hotel is situated close to the Quay, the Cathedral, and Plantin L Museum, and is two minutes' walk from the “ Red Star” offices. It is highly recommended for its great comfort and Moderate Charges. Drawing Room, Sitting and Smoking Rooms. Table d’h&te from 5 till 7 at separate tables. Baths in the Hotel. • JOS. STROOBaNTS, Propr. ANTWERP. HOTEL ST. ANTOINE. PLACE VERTE, OPPOSITE THE CATHEDRAL. rDHIS excellent First-Class Hotel, which enjoys the well- J- merited favour of Families and Tourists, has been Newly Furnished and Decorated. Great Comfort, Superior Apartments, and Moderate Charges. Elegant Sitting, Reading and Smoking Rooms; fine Salle a Manger, excellent Table d’Hote and choice Wines. English, American, and French Papers. BATHS IN THE HOTEL. ARLES-SUR-RHONE (France). GRAND HOTEL DU FORUM. 1 MRST-CLASS, the largest in the town. Full South. Entirely renewed and considerably enlarged. Bath Room. Saloons. Smoking Room. Antique Annexe, with a tower giving a splendid view of the country (Rhone and Camargue). Table d’Hote. Moderate charges. English spoken. Omnibus at the Station. Telephone. MICHEL, Proprietor. ( AVIGNON. GRAND HOTEL d’EUROPE. T7IRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. Has existed for more than a century. 100 Rooms I and Sitting Rooms. Situated full South. Entirely restored and managed again by the former Proprietor, since the 1st of March, 1893. families will find there, as before, every comfort at moderate terms. English spoken. E. VILLE, Proprietress. Murray’s Handbook to Asia Minor, Transcaucasia, Persia, &c. AN ENTIRELY NEW WORK, WITH NUMEROUS MAPS. Edited by Major-General Sir CHAS. WILSON, K.C.B., With assistance from Sir H. Chermstde ; Mr. D. G. Hogarth ; Professor W. Ramsay ; Colonel Everett, C.M.G. ; Colonel Harry Cooper ; Mr. Devey, and others. Crown 8vo. 18s. 1900. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 5 BADEN-BADEN. ]^st Pos ition in Baden-Baden. Proprietor, Mr. FRANZ GROSHOLZ. I “ one of the finest-built and best-furnished First-Class Hotels, mam front with Morning Sun, situated in the new Promenade opposite the new General Post Office, nearest the Kursaal and the famous h rederic Baths and Augusta Baths; it commands the most charming views, and is r e P u ted to be one of the best Hotels in Germany. Principally fre¬ quented by English and American Travellers. Highly recommended in everv respect, very moderate charges. Table d’Hote at 1 and 6 o’clock. English and other Journals. Beautiful airy Dining-Rooms, Ladies’ Drawing-Room, r£ n ? 0k l??' R T m ?--/ en810 l n in the earl y & latter Part of the season. Eectn c Light. Hydraulic Lift. Bath Rooms. Sanitary Arrangemen ts perfect. BADEN-BADEN First-Class Hotel, nearest Conversation House and Bathing Establish¬ ments. Large Park. © vidpk' rv; " e Park. \A iOtJS; 0 Recently enlarged by 40 quiet aEd sunny rooms overlooking tbe Park, Central Steam Heating, Hydraulic Lifts, Electric Light throughout, Charges Strictly Moderate, Pension. A. ROSSLER, Proprietor. BADEN-BADEN. THE MOST BEAUTIFUL AND MOST FASHIONABLE RESORT IN EUROPE. BADEN-BADEN is unrivalled for its Summer Climate, deriving its special charm from its picturesque and salubrious situation among the lower hills of the Black Forest. Lovely walks and drives. International Races and Lawn Tennis. Good Fishing, Shooting, and various other Sports. Splendid Conversation House, with Concert, Ball, Reading Restaurant, and Society Rooms. Excellent Orchestra. THE ESTABLISHMENT IS OPEN THE WHOLE YEAR. Hot Mineral Springs, specially efficacious for the Cure of Gout, Rheu¬ matism, and Disorders of the Stomach aud Liver. NEW GRAND DUCAL BATHING ESTABLISHMENTS “THE FREDERIC BATHS” & “EMPRESS AUGUSTA BATHS." Unique for its Perfection and Elegance. Mineral, Pine, Mud, and Medicinal Baths of every description. Perfect Sanitation. Magnificent Hotels and Villas. Excellent Educational Establishments. English Church. All information at the Bureau of the “ Cure Committee .” 6 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, BADEN-BADEN. HOTEL AND BADHAUS ZAHRINCER HOF. r PHIS large FIRST-CLASS HOTEL is beautifully situated in the *- midst ot a large Park, near the Promenades, Terraces, &c. Mineral Baths, Lift ; Sanitary Arrangements perfect; Pension; Moderate Prices. ___ H. BAYER, WM. and E GROSHOLZ. • ' - - BADEN-BADEN. HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE. TTIGHLY REPUTED and welLpatroriised First Class FAMILY HOTEL, oomlining every modern comfort ■*-*- with moderate charges. Beautiful situation in the most elegant part of Baden, at theentrance of tf(e Liehtenthal Allee. facing Promenade, Theatre, and Conversation House. Lift. Baths. Large Garden, covered restaurant Terrace Electric Light. Open all the vear. Arrangements (Winter Pension). New Propiietor, .Vdolptl Pi]I'illjiei', formerly hnrt’aus, Kreuznafh, and Mena House, Cairo. Rntnch Hawse*—Hi lei ulton Fine situation opposite the British Club, in the Centre of the Kest Promenades, and near Oolf 1 inks 150 Rooms slid Saloons feeing the Sea and Full 8outh. Lift. Electric Light. Calori fere. Lawn Tennis. Renowned Cuisine. Carnages of all kinds. Moderate Charges.^, ^ BIARRITZ. • ci FIRST CLASS. Unique situation facing the Sea. La’ge Harden. Bath Looms nnd Shower Baths. Billiard and Smoking Rooms. Lit *. Electric I i lit. Centre of the I own and Promenades. , Ihe com for of ti e r< on sad the ca’cful attention to the cuisiDe and service have givm the tstablisbmei t a wire world imputation. seivice nave B iuAECEL C^lYiFAGNF, Proprietor. 8 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, BIDEFORD. Central for the whole of North Devon, Westward Ho, Clovelly, Hartland, Bude, Ilfracombe, and Bynton. Adjoining the Railway Station, with Private entrance. ROYAL HOTEL. HIGH CLASS. Overlooking the River Torridge and Old Bridge. Superbly furnished and lofty rooms. Ventilation and Sanitary arrangements perfect. Continental Courtyard. Finest Stabling and Coach-bouse in Devonshire. Delightful Winter Resort. A portion of the house built in 1688 by an old merchant prince retains its magnificent oak staircase and suite of rooms, in one of which Charles Kingsley wrote a portion of “ Westward Ho.” BIDEFORD. NEW INN FAMILY HOTEL. The Oldest, Largest, and Principal Hotel in the Town. Private Sitting Rooms, with excellent views. The House is pleasantly situated in the centre of the Town, overlooking the river Torridge, and other Hotels. Has recently undergone extensive additions and improvements. It is well-known for its superior accommodation combined with moderate charges. Proprietor of and Booking Office for the Clovelly and Bude Coaches in connection with the L. & S. W. Railway. Hot and Cold Baths. Billiards, two tables. H. ASCOTT, Proprietor. .p''. V/srA BLACK FOREST. Splendid summer-resorts and watering-places. SHORTEST ROUTES Between PARIS (Exhibition) and OBERAMMERGAU (Plays). Aslc for Illustrated Guide of the “ Society of the Black Forest Hotel Proprietors ” (258 members). CENTRAL OFFICE AT HORN BERG. ■ >!, A Y» S.P. BLAIR ATHOLL. ADJOINING THE STATION. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. BLAIR ATHOLL is much the nearest and most central point from which to visit Killiecrankie, the Queen's View, Loch Tummel, Rannoch, Glen Tilt, Braemar, the Falls of Bruar, Garry Tum- uiel, and Fender; the Grounds of Blair Castle, etc. ; and it is the most convenient resting place for breaking the long railway journey to and from the North of Scotland. D. MACDONALD & SONS, Proprietors. GRAND HOTEL' DE 8LOIS ET BE§ FAMILLEI. THIBAUDIER G-IG-TTOTsT. CLOSE TO THE CASTLE OF BLOIS. Highly recommended to Strangers. VERY COMFORTABLE TABLE D’HOTE AND RESTAURANT. Apartments for Families. Stable for Motor Cars and Cycles. Comfortable Carriages for visiting Cnambord and the Environs. Moderate Charges. Baths in the Hotel. Beautiful Dining-room in Ulysse Pottery. OMNIBUS AT THE STATION. ENGLISH SPOKEN. TELEPHONE. BORDIGHERA. ALBRECHT’S . . . GRAND HOTEL BRITANNIQUE, Large Garden. Good Cookery. Moderate Prices. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK TO CONSTANTINOPLE, BRUSA, AND THE TRQAD. Edited by General Sir Charles Wilson, R.E., K.C.B. With 12 Maps and Plans. Cr. 8vo., Is. 6 d. 1900. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 9 BORDIGHERA (Riviera), the new HOTEL ROYAL —Ma— SJtf-L. . -■ ———————————1^1 Loige High-class Hotel. Full South. Garden. Terraces. Grand situation on elevated ground commanding finest view of the whole coast. Electric Light. Litt. Bath-rooms on each door. Corridors and public rooms heated by steam. Sanitation certified. Every modern appliance. KUNZLER & PALOMBI, Proprs. HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE Family House. Full South. Central situation in a tine garden near railway station. Electric Light throughout. Known for its comfort and good cuisine. Moderate prices. J. Kunzler (Swiss), Manager. An Omnibus for the two Establishments meets all trains at Bordighera and at Ventimiglia Station if requested. BOULOGNE-SUR-MER. FIRST CLASS. Recommended to Tourists. Select Company. Situated in the most Central part. Choice Cuisine and Wines. Arrangements made for a protracted stay. Electric Light. Telephone. Moderate Charges. J. BOUTON-DEPORT, Proprietor. BOULOGNE-SUR-MER. Hotel du Pavilion Imperial. The only Hotel Facing the Sea. Electric Lift and Light. VERIY1ERSCH, Proprietor. Also Proprietor of the Imperial Hotel, 4, Rue Christophe Colomb (Champs Elvsees), Paris. BOULOGNE-SUR-MER. HI OTEL DES BAINS. Mr. L. WALLET. Proprietor. LTRST-CLASS HOTEL, situated on the Port, facing the Railway Station and L Steamers. Near the Post Office and Casino. Bath Rooms. Advantageous arrangements made for a stay. LA BOURBOULE-LES-BAINS (France). GRAND HOTEL de PARIS The best in every respect. Lift. Electric Light. Telephone. Madame LEQUIME, Proprietress. LA BOURBOULE-LES-BAINS (France). MEDICIS & PALACE HOTEL Modern Sanitary System. Very comfortable. Electric Light, Telephone, Lift, Omnibus, Interpreter, Baths, Ca'orifere. A- sENNEBY, Proprietor. 10 MURK AY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, BRUNSWICK. HOTEL DEUTSCHES HAUS. P ROMINENT Central Location, opposite the Dome and the Castle Dankwarderode, near the Residential Palace and the 'Theatre. FIRST-CLASS HOUSE. NEWLY BUILT. Openly situated on three sides. Fireproof. EVERY MODERN COMFORT, MODERATE TERMS . ROBERT SCHRADER. BRUNSWICK. SCHRADER’S , HOTEL. (FORMERLY CISSEE.) OLD RENOWNED FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Every Modern Comfort. Rooms from Mk. 2 upwards. HOTEL CARRIAGE AT ALL TRAINS. Direction, W. SCHWARZE (previously, Hotel du Nord, Stettin). BRUNIG. HOTEL KURHAUS BRUNIG, PENSION ■ 3400 Feet above the Sea. Railway Station between Lucerne and Interlaken. Comfortable Hotel. Modern Sanitation. SPLENDID HEALTH RESORT BRUSSELS. GRAND HOTEL, GERNAY. Close to the Railway Station tor Ostend, Germany, Holland, Antwerp and Spa, form¬ ing the Corner of the Boulevards Botanique et du Nord. Moderate charges. Baths in the Hotel. Telephone. BUXTON HYDROPATHIC BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE. Telegraphic Address, “Comfortable," Buxton. National Telephone, No. 5. Apply, Mr. H. LOMAS. OlTU A'l ED over One Thousand Feet Above the sea level, sheltered from the north and O east, overlooking the Public Gardens, and clo*e to the celebrated Min< ral Wells and Bath*. Magnificent Public Rooms, American Elevator, Electric Light, Hydropathic Baths of every description, Electric Baths, Massage, Electro-Massage, the Nauheim Treatment and the Greville Hot Air Treatment. TENNIS, GOLF, HUNTING, FISHING. CINDERELLA DANCE EVERY SATURDAY THROUGHOUT THE YEAR. CAEN” HOTEL D’ANGLETERBE, Rue St. Jean, Nos. 77 79 , 81 . 1 ^'i RST-CLASS. Situated in the Centre of the Town. Hendezvous of the best Society. U 0 elegantly Furnished aid comfortable Bid Rooms and -itting Rooms. breakfasts a la Carte. I able d’Hote Breakfasts at 3 francs; Dinner at l able d’Hote, 4 francs. Suites of Apaiim nts for Families. E.ect ic Light throughout. Baihs. / Telephone. 1900. MURRAY’S HAhDBOOR ADVERTISER. 11 CAEN. HOTEL D’ESPAGNE. XpIRST-CLASS. Very Comfortable. Recommended by Baedeker’s Guide. Moderate Charges. Breakfast, 2s. 3 cl. ; Dinner, 2s. 8 d. : wine, .pyder. and soda water, included : Bedroom from 2s. The Proprietor speaks English and French ; he is a Member of the Cyclists’ Touring Club. London, and Touring Club of France. _ E. RENAUX, Proprietor. SHEPHEARD’S HOTEL. Patronized by Imperial and Royal Families. This world-famed Establishment, situated in the most healthy and interesting part of the city, combines the comforts of home with the luxury of the finest hotels in Europe. Rooms and Suites of Apartments facing full south. Private Street Entrances. Fire-places. Hair Dressing Saloon. Tenuis Courts. Branch Offices of the Egyptian Post. FIREPROOF STAIRCASES. ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT THE BUILDING. HYDRAULIC LIFTS. Drainage and Sanitary Arrangements on the most Modern Principles. Fitted up by Eminent English Engineers and approved by the Sanitary Engineer to the Egyptian Government. A thick layer of Hydraulic Concrete preventing humidity and noxious emanations. The surrounding Gardens and Palm Groves are the Property of the Hotel. BRISTOL HOTEL, CAIRO. Strictly First-Class, situated full South,-right opposite the famous Esbekieh Gardens. Perfect Sanitary Arrangements. Electric Light throughout.. Charges exceptionally moderate. Evening dress for dinner optional. House absolutely Iree from mosquitoes. C. AQ (JILINA ( L.te of Thus. C< ok & Soi ), Proprietor. CANARY I SLA NDS~ SANTA CATALINA HOTEL, I, I S' PALMAS. Private Nurse. i>ear njiigiisii tuuiui, '->>-'1. COMPANY, Limited, 1, Laurence Pountney Hill, London, L.l. CANNES. HOTEL ET PENSION DE HOLLANDE ET DE RUSSIE. High position, full south, in a magnificent Park, 15 minutes from the Sea, and close to St. Pauls Church. Tram-Omnibus to and from (he Town. Elect!ic Light. Telephone. Moderate Charges. N.H.—Sanitary arrangements are perfect and with latest impru'erneuts. Ji> ADAM, Prujirietnr. Jn bummrr —Gd. bOl'EL GOESCIIENEN, r at GoesiitVerien St. Got hard Liiie. CANNES. Hotel Pension and Villa de la Tour. Well situated. West end,- Cannes. Highly recommended and considered as one of the most comfortable Family Houses. Arrange¬ ments for short or lo g stays. Telephone. Tennis. Electric Trains to and from the Town. - E. BENZ,- Proprietor. 12 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, CARLSBAD. BOHEMIA. CARLSBAD. AUSTRIA, Station on the Buschtiehrader Railway and the Imperial Austrian State Railway. Ordinary services from all the large towns on the Continent. Express and Sleeping Car Services. Trains de Luxe. The Orient Express (Paris, Constantinople) ; the Ostend Express. CARLSBAD is situated in a romantic Valley, and surrounded by extensive and beautiful Woods, and is the Premier Alealine Mineral Bath. Average annual temperature, 45 *7° F. Average summer temperature, 57 "2° F. 16 Mineral Springs, varying from 97*8° F. to 163-6° F. The Sprudel and the Muhlbrunn being the most frequented. MAGNIFICENT BATHING 1899. ESTABLISHMENTS. tm- 50,453 BATHERS. THE NEW KAISERBAD IS THE MOST 125,000 TOURISTS AND REMARKABLE IN EUROPE. PASSING VISITORS. The Waters of Carlsbad are prescribed for disorders of the Stomach, the Intestines, the Spleen, the Liver, the Kidneys and Urinary Organs, Hemorrhoids, Gout, Obesity, Constipation, and (with great success) Diabetes. Four Large Bathing Establishments, fitted with the latest appli¬ ances, are under the control of the Municipality. Mineral baths, soft-water baths and shower baths, iron-mud baths, steam and needle baths, electric bath, massage, carbonic acid baths. Swedish hydro¬ pathic and medical gymnastic establishment (Zander system). Bathing and swimming in the River Eger. NUMEROUS FIRST-CLASS HOTELS AND OVER 1,000 PENSIONS & VILLAS Replete with every Modern Comfort. Electric Light and the Incandescent Light system. Separate Water Supply system for drinking and household purposes. Nearly all wood and asphalte paving. Newly constructed drainage system. Theatres, Orchestral and Vocal Concerts, Military Band, Dancing, Riding School, Lawn Tennis, Horse Races. A network of charming walks and drives of over 62 miles in the mountains and woods surrounding the town, affording many splendid views. Information and Descriptive Pamphlet on application to the To con Council. 1900. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 13 CARLSBAD. Goldener Schild and Zwei Deutsche Monarches First-class Hotel, finest position in town. 200 Rooms and Saloons. Concert Garden. Large Promenade Garden. Splendid Dining-room with extensive glass Verandah. Cafe with Newspapers in every language. Weekly, two concerts by the Concert Orchestra. Baths. Electric Light. Lift. 'Telephone. Carriages. Omnibus. F. ROSCHER, Proprietor, Court Purveyor of the Prince of Schaumburg-Lippe. CARLSBAD (Bohemia). FIRST-CLASS HOUSE, With every comfort of modern times. IN THE BEST PART OF THE TOWN AND NEXT TO THE SPRINGS AND BATHS. EXCELLENT TABLE. LIFT. ELECTRIC LIGHT. TELEPHONE. Telegrams: KROH, CARLSBAD. CARLSBAD. SAVOY WEST-END HOTEL Honoured by H.R.H. The Prince of Wales, H.I.H. Grand Dulce of Russia, H.R.H. Princess of Saxe Cobury-Gotha, II.H. The Khedive of Egypt, &c. 'PHIS HOTEL is constructed and fitted up on the most approved principles of modern 1 high-cla>s Hotels. It is situated on the '■ichlossberg opposite the American Park, in the healthiest position of Carlsbad, and is central to all the differei t Springs. First-class Restau r ant, Grill Roon, Ladies’ Sal >on. Reading and Smoking Rooms. Garden, Vermdah, Terrace, Electric bight, Lift. The new Cleopatra Villa Annex of the Hotel is beautifully furnished and arranged in large and small apartments. AULICH &■ NUNGOVICII (Connected with the Savoy, Continental and d’Angleterre Hotels, Cairo, and Grand Hotel, Helouan, and Hotel des Bains, Helouan, Egypt). CARLSBAD. HOTEL KONIGSVILLA AND VILLA TERESA. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL, prominent central location, close to the Springs and Baths, standing in its own grounds. DINING, SMOKING, AND READING ROOMS, VERANDAH. LIFT, ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT, BATHS. April and May, August and September—Reduced Prices. Telegrams Konigsvilla, Carlsbad. 14 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, Opened CARLSBAD (Bohemia). Opened '“S 7 ’ RESIDENZ HOTEL, Ja iS y ’ F IRST-CLASS HOTEL in the centre of the town, opposite the “ Sprudel *' and'near the other Springs, in place of ihe old Hat- 1, “3 Easanen.” Newly built, with ail comfort. Electric Light, Steam Heating, Lift, Telephone, and Baths. Splen lid I doing and Caie Saloons, excellent Table, choice Wines. Open Summer and Winter. Omnibus at the Station. Managed by the Broprietor, ANTON WIESINGER. CARLSBAD. HOTEL BRISTOL With Dependance, VILLA VICTORIA. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, best location, close to Springs and Baths. Standing in its own grounds. MUCH FREQUENTED BY ENGLISH AND AMERICANS. Dining, Smoking and Reading Rooms. VERANDAH. LIFT. ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT. BATHS. Telegrams ‘’Bristol, Carlsbad.” CARLSBAD. GRAND HOTEL POPP. Most frequented Frst-class Hotel. Rooms at all prices. Spring and autumn considerably reduced terms. -- Address for Telegrams : PUPP, CARLSBAD. CARLSBAD. HOTEL NATIONAL, M O-T Beautiful Location, next to the Springs, Bath-i and City Park. Restaurant with Terrace and Verandah. Reading, Smoking and Card Rooms. Batluv Lift. Moderate Terms. Omnibus at the Station. ADOLF *H5~I N Ci ER, Proprietor. CARLSBAD. ANGER’S HOTEL This FIRST-CLASS HOTEL offers special comfort to English and American Travellers. OPEN ALL YEAR ROUND. CHARGES MODERATE. ENGLISH AND AMERICAN NEWSPAPERS. FIRST-CLAob iiESTAURAbT. Coffee Room and American Bar. Omnibus at the Station. Electric Light. Central Heating Apparatus. FRANCIS ANGER. 1900. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 15 - CARLSBAD. ROSCHER’S HOTEL. GOLDENEK SCHILD AND ZWEI DEUTSCHE MONARCHEN. rMRST-CLASS HOTEL, in the most beautiful loeat;on of the town. . 1 . 200 Rooms and Saloons. Concert Garden, large Promenade Garden. Remarkable Dining Saloon with large Glass Verandah. Cofiee Saloon with Newspapers in all languages. Concert of the Concert Band twice a week. Baths, Carriages, Omnibus, Electric Light, Lilt, Telephone. Radway Ticket Office and Royal Bavarian Custom Revision in the House. F. ROSCHER, Hotelier. COMO. (On the border of the Lake.) Magnificent Palace, built for the purpose of an hotel, with the most complete comfort. ^Opened March, 1899.) Very reasonable prices. V. COLLEONI, Proprietor. COMO. GRAND HOTEL VOLTA VERY FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. On the Boeder of the Lake. ROOM, LIGHT, & ATTENDANCE, From 3 fran cs. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK TO Holland and Belgium. IS Maps and Plans. 6s. 21st Edition. CONSTANTINE (ALGERIA). THE GRAND HOTEL. Firs$it«Clas«is. F INEST and most Central Position in the Town. Com¬ pletely Renovated. Magnificent Dining and Reception Rooms to seat 300 people. Baths and Telephone in the Hotel. Interpreter and Omnibus to every Train. Noted Uellars ‘ C. LEGEY, Proprietor. CONSTANTINOPLE. GRAND HOTEL DE L0NDRES. HOTEL BRISTOL. GRAND HOTEL B’ANGLETERRE & ROYAL (,/. MIS S I It III). HOTEL BYZANCE, All these First-Class Hotels have a glorious view, and are replete with every modern comfort. Drainage and Sanitary Arrangements on English Principles. First-Class French and English Cuisine._ 16 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, CONSTANCE (Germany). INSEL HOTEL ON THE LAKE. One of the most curious Hotels in Europe. Ancient Dominican Convent, with beautiful frescoes from the 12th and 13th century and historical reminiscences, now converted into a large First-Class Hotel. 300 Beds, with every comfort. Electric Light. Lift. Shady Garden. Fishing and Rowing, etc. _____J. A. BRAUEN, Manager. COPENHAGEN. Vestre Boulevard. COPENHAGEN. L’lRST-CLASS HOUSE, newly built, 2 minutes from the Terminus and Tivoli. 100 L comfortable rooms from Kr. 2 upwards, including electiic light and service. Lilt. Excellent Dinners at Kr. 2. Baths. Beautiful Reading Room, Cafe and Restaurant. Porter at all trains. JE>. NIELSEN, Director. COUTANCES. HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE. Refurnished with every comfort. Re¬ commended to F’amilies. Moderate Prices. Omnibus meets all Trains. Storage for Cycles. BRIENS, Proprietor. DINANT-STTR-MEUSE. HOTEL DE LA TETE D’OR. ALEXIS DISIKRE, Proprietor. Tj 1 IRST-ULASS, upon the GRAND PLACE. Is to be recommended for its comfort. Pension from 8 or 9 francs per day. DIEPPE. XXO^IESX. ROYAL. Facing the Beach, close to the Bathing Establishment and the Parade. TT IS THE MOST IMPORTANT ESTABLISHMENT AND ONE L OF THE MOST PLEASANTLY SITUATED HOTELS IN DIEPPE, commanding a beautiful aud extensive View of the Sea. F'amilies and Gentlemen visiting Dieppe will find at this Establishment elegant Large and Small Apartments, and the best of accom¬ modation, at very reasonable prices. Large Reading Room, with French and English Newspapers. The Refreshments, &c., are of the best quality. In fact, this Hotel fully bears out and deserves the favourable opinion expressed of it in Murray’s and other Guide Books. LARSONNEUX, Proprietor. Table d’ffote and Private Dinners. The only Hotel in Dieppe with a Lift. DIEPPE. GRAM JD HOTEL. On the Beach, fronting the Sea. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Salle a Manger on the Terrace overlooking the Sea. Most Comfortable, with Moderate Prices. Arrangements made with Families. Baths in the Hotel. Table d’Hote. Restaurant a la Carte. Telephone. Electric Light. Lift. G. DUCOUDERT, Proprietor. DINARD (Ille et Vilaine). MAISON ROUGE, F. M. GILBERT SMITH. BANKER, HOUSE AGENT, and TEA and WINE MERCHANT. This Establishment is specially founded for English and Americans. All Enquiries will receive prompt attention, and a Descriptive Circular will be sent Gratis. 1900. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 17 DINARD. 10 Hours from Southampton (via Saint-Malo). The Most Fashionable Summer and Winter Resort in the WEST OF FRANCE. Noted for its Mild Climate in Winter. GOLF, TENNIS, CRICKET, CYCLING, ETC. JOHN LE COCQ, Banker, House and Estate Agent. DINARD. !£?■ DINAH-PARAME. Lift. DRESDEN. Electric Light. BISMARCKPLATZ, 7, near the central station. S PLENDID situation in the English Quarter. Greatly patronised by English and American families. Every home comfort. Rooms from 2 marks, everything included. Pension arrangements. G. WENTZEL, Proprietor. /■ 2 // ?z>y/y?s /j zr^/si/zysy /i l/rsy). DUBLIN. Charming situation, overlooking Stephen's Green Park. Most Central Position. Moderate Charges. HOTEL. Electric Light. Hydraulic Passenger Elevator. ENGELBERG. THE VALLEY OF ENGELBERG (3200 ft. high), near Lucerne. Season 15th May-30th September. HOTEL SONNENBERG. T HE property of Mr. H. HUG. Summer stay unrivalled by its grand Alnine scenery. Clear bracing air. equable temperature. Recommended by the highest modiral authorities. The HOTFL SONNENBERG, in the finest and healthiest situation facing the Titlis and the Glaciers, is one of the most comfortable and best managed hotels m Switzerland Lawn Tennis Ground. Excellent and central place for sketching, botan- ising and the most varied and interesting excursions. 1 he ascent of the Titlis is best made from here. Shady Woods. Vapour and Shower Baths Watersprrag 5 R.; 200 Rooms. Fu sion from £2 6s. a week upwards. Because of its so sheltered situation specially adapted Z and June. Resident English Physician. ___ C 18 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, ENGELBERG, SWITZERLAND. KURHAUS HOTEL AND PENSION TITUS. THIRST-CLASS HOTEL, best situated in the valley, in the middle of an L extensive garden. 240 Beds. Large sitting-rooms. Lift. Electric Light in all the rooms. English Chapel in the garden. Good attendance. Moderate charges. Cook’s tickets taken. Open from 1st May until 1st October. GRAND HOTEL AND KURANSTALT. This new first-class Hydropathic Establishment with 250 Beds, two Lifts, Electric Light in all the rooms, Central Heating, opposite to the Hotel Titlis, will he open on the 15th May. The building is fitted up to the most recent hygienic principles. The various medical appliances fulfil the utmost demands of modern science and furnish everything necessary for hydropathic, mechanical and electric treatment. For illustrated prospectus and tariff please apply to the Proprietor, Ed. CATTANI. ENGELBERG, SWITZERLAND. HOTEL AND PENSION NATIONAL. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. 150 BEDS. Electric Light. Bath Rooms on every Floor. Pension from Seven Francs a day and upwards FRAU DR. MULLER, Proprietor. ENGELBERG, SWITZERLAND. WELL KNOWN HOTEL WITH GOOD ACCOMMODATION, CONTAINING 100 BEDS. Conversation Saloon, Reading and Smoking Rooms. Electric Light. Baths. Pension : 61 to 8 frs. a day, everything included. Reduced prices in June and September. Omnibus at Bailway Station. Frz. WYRSCH-CATTANI, Manager. BATH-EMS. THE “FOUR TOWERS” Family Hotel and Bath. House. ' Beautifully situated in centre of Kurpark, sur¬ rounded by large Garden. Directly communi¬ cating with Royal Mineral Bath House, opposite Heyer’s•Inhaling Establishment- Comfortably furnished Rooms from ‘2 Marks upward. Sani¬ tary arrangements perfect. E. BECKER. Dependence: Villa Becker, VictoriaAllee, No.-4... MURRAY’S HANDBOOK TO IRELAND. Fifth Edition. With 19_Maps and Plans. 9s. EXETER, DEVONSHIRE. POPLE’S. NEW LONDON HOTEL. Patronised by . . H.R.H. The Prince op Wades and T.Ri.H, The Duke and Duchess of York. A DJOINING Northemhay Park and near the Cathedral. Large covered Continental Courtyard. Famed for its Cuisine and Wines,! Table d’Hote. Night Porter. Hotel Omnibuses and Cabs. POSTING ESTABLISHMENT. 1900 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 19 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK TO EGYPT. CAIRO, THEBES, THE SUEZ CANAL, SINAI, THE COURSE OF THE NILE FROM DONGOLA, &c., &c. Edited by Miss BRODRICK end Processor SAYCE, with the assistance of d’s- tinguished Lgyptlog sts and Officials With many New Maps and Plans. Cr. 8vo , 15s. FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. Opposite the Central Railway Station. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Lift. Electric Light. Steam Heating - . K. FRANK, Proprietor. FRAN KFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. GRCdtQ HOT Eh UKWOMh. (OPPOSITE THE CENTRAL RAILWAY STATION.) FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. Moderate Charges. Tariff in Every \Room. ELECTRIC LIGHT. LIFT. H. HABERLAND, Proprietor. FRANZENSBAD. 106-108, SALZQUELLSTRASSE. N EWEST LARGE HOTEL and PENSION, with elegant Dining and Reading Rooms. O'vn Park, with Lawn Tennis Ground. Patronised by Members of, Imperial and Royal Families, and bv the Aristocracy. Under personal Management of the Proprietor, T. F. KOPP. FREIBURG (in Breisgau, Baden). HOTEL VICTORIA. Near the Station, Post, and Telegraph Offices. Best Situation. Good Attendance. Moderate Charges. Pension. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK TO SPA IN. By Richari> Ford. With 60 carefully drawn Mans and Plans of Towns and Buildings. 2 Vols. 8vo. 50s. FREUDENSTAItT. ( 2,600 feet above sea.') BAILWAY-LINE STUTTGART , OFFENBURG, STBASB URG. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, in most healthy position on a charming hill, in the'middle of a L beautiful Park. -Electric Light. Lawn Tennis. Sanitary Arrangements Perfect. Best centre for excursions. ERNEST LUZ, Junior, Proprietor. GENEVA. GRAND HOTEL DE LA PAIX. T 71 IRST-CLASS, 200 Booms, central and finest situation in front of the _L Lake and Mont Blanc. Entirely Renewed. Central Heating. Every Modern Comfort. FRED WEBER, Proprietor and Manager. Telegraphic Address: “ Hotel Paix, Geneva.” /» v 20 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, GENEVA. HOTEL PENSION VICTORIA (FORMERLY HOTEL FLAEGEL) Finest situation, near the English Garden. Splendid view of the Lake and the Alps. Moderate Charges. Electric Light. Omnibus at the Station. Lift, Baths. CENTRAL HEATING- W. MESS, Proprietor. GENEVA. HOTEL PENSION FLEISCHMAHN MURRAY'S HANDBOOK TO SWEDEN. Rond Point de Plainpalais. Near the Bastion Park. Fine situation. MODERATE CHARGES. Electric Light. Baths. Stockholm, Upsala, Gothenburg, The Lakes, The Shores of the Baltic, &e. 3 Maps and Plan. 6th Edition. 6s. ITALY. GENOA. ITALY. Hotel Continental ties Etrangers. Five minutes from Railway station and Harb ur. Close to Thomas Cook and Son’s and to North German Lloyd Offices. Steam Heating, Electric Light, Lift, Railway Booking Office. American or European Plan for Transient Guests. Tariff posted in each room. Telegraphic Address : “ Etraugers, Genoa.” MELANO BROS., Proprietors. THE HAGUE (Holland). BES IMBES. HOTEL DE LUXE. I HOTEL DE LUXE. r HHE First and Largest in the Town. Entirely Refurnished. In the J- centre of the town and facing the Royal Theatre. Two minutes from the Wood. Electric Tramway for Scheveningen passes the Hotel. Electric Light. Interpommunal Telephone. Splendid Saloons and Apartments with every modern comfort. Baths and Hair-dressing Saloon in the Hotel. English Sanitary System. Doctor attached to the Hotel. Carriages and Riding Horses. Excellent Cuisine and choice Wines. Concert at Dinner. Elegant Hall and Saloons for Soirees and Balls. Moderate Prices. Omnibus meets every train HALLER, Director. HAVRE. HOTEL D’ANCLETERRE, RUE DE PARIS. 12-H26. EXCEEDINGLY well situated in the best. Li quarter of the Town and recommended for its Comfort and Moderate Charges. Rooms from 2 to 5 francs. Restaurant it la Carte. Table d’hote. Breakfast, 2 fr. 50 c. Dinners, 3frs. English and German spoken. / GHELLE, Proprietor. HAVRE. HOTEL CONTINENTAL First-Class Hotel in the finest situation in Havre, facing the Jetty. Large and small apartments. Table d'hote. Restaurant a la carte. English spoken. Telephone 226. Vve. BLOUET & FILS. HEIDELBERG. HOTEL VICTORIA. First-Class Hotel in every respect. Exceedingly well situated. Beautiful Verandah and large Garden at the back of the House. Advantageous arrangements made with families intending a longer stay. Highly recommended. HEIDELBERG. HOTEL SCHRIEDER. FIRST -CLASS Hotel, nearest to the Station. Large Garden with covered Verandah. I All Visitors’ Rooms face the Garden. Oldest Hotel in the town, entirely renovated. Rooms from 2*50 to 5 marks, including light and a 1 tendance. Arrangements made for , prolonged stay. 0. SUTTERLIN, new Proprietor. 1900. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 21 HILDESHEIM. HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE. FI It ST - CLA SS HO FS E. Situated in the Centre of the Town. Baths in the house. Omnibus at the Station. Central Heating Apparatus. 50 Booms and Saloons, fitted up with every comfort of modern times. English newspapers. _ C. HEERDT. AN IDEAL POSITION. IIiFRA.COMHB O T E L. THE PRINCIPAL AND ONLY HOTEL ON THE SEA SHORE. r j''HE Finest Private Marine Esplanade in ihe Kingdom. Unrivalled Sea Frontage and oven Surrounding/!, L Grounds, Five Acres. 250 Apartments. I,awn Tennis. Croquet Lawn. Elegant Salle k Manger. Drawing. Reading, Smoking and Billiard Rooms, and Sumptuous Lounge Hall on the Ground Floor. Passenger Lift. Moderate Tariff. There is attached to the Hotel one of the Largest Swimming Baths in the United Kingdom (the temperature of which is regulated). Also well-appointed Private Hot and Cold Sea and Fresh Water Baths, Douche. Shower, &c. H. R. GROVER, Manager. The Ilfracombe Hotel Co., Ltd. To whom all communications should be addressed. ILFRACOMBE. FIRST-CLASS BOARD IN 3 HOUSE WITH MAGNIFICENT SEA VIEWS. 42 BEDROOMS. BATHS. BALCONIES. BILLIARDS. Finest Drawing Room in Town. Special Sanitary Certificate. ISI'JOU Guide Gratis. W. R. FOSTER, Proprietor. HQMBURG. » A Tfil* Oft’ HOJHBIT fi (a , GERMANY. PITTER’S PARK HOTEL AND VILLA. It Temporary Residence of H.R. H. the Prince of Wales. Arrangements made at reduced prices in April, May, June and September. 25 per cent. Discount for sick and wounded officers and their wives. INTERLAKEN. Sc’uweizerhof —Hotel Suisse. Finest Views. First-Class. Lift. Personally conducted by the Proprietors, E. STRUBIN & WIRTH. INTERLAKEN. RUGEN HOTEL, JUNGFRAUBLICK. Not to he confounded with HOTEL JUNGFRAU. Highly respected and fashionable First-class Family Hotel. Situated in the highest and healthiest part of Interlaken. Beautiful views of the Glaciers and the Lakes. Very quiet position. Dustfree. Extensive walks in a large fir-tree forest. Lift. Electric Light in all the rooms. Open from May to October. J. OESOH-MULLER, Proprietor and Manager. Branch House, Winter Season, Continental, Cannes. INTERLAKEN. Grand Hotel Metropole. ISCHL (Austria). (SALZKAMERGU r.) HOTEL GOLDEflES KREUZ. Facing the Imperial Villa. Most favourably known Hotel. Fred. EDLINGER, Proprietor (Naturalized English Subject!. INTERLAKEN. GRAND HOTEL DES ALPES. 200 BEDS. Opposite the Jungfrau, on the Principal Promenade (Hoheweg). First-class' Family Hotel. Moderate Terms. Personally conducted by the Proprietor— T. MATTI. _ 22 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, IBTBTSBXttJCK. Thirty-one hours from London, via Arlberg, to Innsbruck. Through tickets and luggage registered through. Twenty-three hours from Paris. HOTEL KREID. (Next the Station.) SECOND CLASS. HOTEL DE L’EUROPE. First-Class Establishment. Affords every Modern Comfort. Electric Light in Every Room. STEAM AND OTHER BATHS. Anton Hanreich, Proprietor, HOTEL GOLDENE SONNE (Opposite the Station.) FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. RENOWNED FOR ITS SUPERIOR CUISINE AND WINE. “Restaurateur” of the South Railway Station. CARL BEER, Proprietor. The above Hotel offers Pension at the most moderate terms for the Winter Season, according to rooms, from fl.3 upwards, rooms included. RICHLY ILLUSTRATED GUIDES of INNSBRUCK sent on application, by the Proprietors of above Hotels, free of charge. ----■ T HE. BEAUTIFUL AND SHELTERED situation of iNNSBRUCK renders it a very agreeable place of resi¬ dence all the year round. In spring as well as in autumn it is especially to he recommended as a stopping place between the different watering places. It is also to he recommended after a sojourn at the sea-side. Innsbruck is the centre from which many splendid excursions can be made in every direction, and of any length. Attractive walks in the immediate neigh¬ bourhood of the town and the different elevations. The climate in Winter, dry, strengthening, sunny, free from cold winds and fogs, has attracted many visitors of late years, and among those who have found the greatest relief are w'eak, convalescent, nervous, appetiteless, and sleepless persons. N.B.— University, Grammar, Music, and other schools. Private Lessons of every kind are available, so that, studies can be continued and the education of children carried on. HOTEL TYROL. EIEST - CLASS HOTEL. (Opposite the Railway Station.) CARL LANDSEE, Proprietor. 1900. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 23 GRAND HOTEL Victoria. GRAND HOTEL Jungfrau. INTERLAKEN. co £ c_h tc-< CO (TO 3=» J=d Cfl CO PO t~ 1 -e> i=S t=-J First-class. Unrivalled for its great comfort. 350 Rooms. 20 Saloons. Electric Light throughout. Central Heat- ing’. Lawn Tennis Grounds. Concerts. Balls. First-class Restaurant. ED. RUCHTI, Administrateur. First-class. Electric Light throughout. 2 00 Rooms. 10 Saloons. Rooms from Three Francs. First - class Restaurant. Grill-room. ED. SEILER, Manager. Murray's handbook to india and ceylon. INCLUDING Bengal, Bombay and Madras, the Panjab, N.-W. Provinces, Rajputana, the Native States, Assam, Cashmere, and Burma. With 55 Maps and Plans of Towns and Buildings. 3rd Edition, in One Volume, 20s’. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK TO CENTRAL ITALY. FLORENCE, LUCCA, TUSCANY, ELBA, UMBRIA, THE MARCHES, etc 12th Edition. Almost entirely re-written by the Rev. H. H. JEAFFRESON, M.A. With New Maps and Plans. Crown 8vo. 9s. _ . MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, ‘24 KOPENHAGEN. HOTEL KONIC KOPENHAGEN. von DANEIVIARK. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. With lot elegantly furnished Rooms and Salons from Kr. 2 upwards. Preferred by the traveli ng public because of its central and opn location overlooking ihe King’s Square. In the Hotel large newly furnished only VIENNA CAFE, with Restaurant and Con¬ fectioner’s Shop, in Summer with Tables and chairs in the open air. Large selection of German, French and English Newspapers. German Waiters. Moderate Prices. Electric Light. Lift. Table d’hote at 4 o’clock. Sample Rooms for travelling salesmen. Latest Sanitary Appliances. Hotel Omnibus at the Railroad Depdt. R. KLUM, Proprietor Murray s Handbook to South Italy. Part L— NAPLES, POMPEII; SORRENTO; CAPRI; AMALFI, PESTUM, TARANTO, BARI; BRINDISI, &c. With 10 Maps and Plans. 6s. 9th Edition. Part II.—SICILY, PALERMO, SYRACUSE, &c. With 9 Maps and Plans. 6s. 9th Edition. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK TO JAPAN. FIFTH EDITION. By BASIL HALL CHAMBERLAIN and W. B. MASON. With 28 Maps and Plan. 5th Edition. 20s. KISSINGEN SPA. C OMPLETELY Reconstructed and Renewed. English and American Residence. Only Hotel in Kissingen with Electric Light in every room. Electric Lift. Excellent Sanitary Arrangements. Baths. Large Garden. Fine Open Situation opposite the Springs and Cur Garden. 140 Rooms. KREUZNACH HOTEL ORANIENHOF (First Class). f HNEST Situation in its own extensive grounds; a well known and extensively patronised Establishment. Visited by Royalty. Every English comfort. Electric Light, Lilt, Lawn Tennis. Conversation, Reading and Billiard Rooms. Mineral Baths. MODERATE CHARGES. H. D. ALTEN (formerly at Meurice’s, Paris). LAIRG. UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT. Sutherland Hr ms Ibotel LAIK Gr. WILLIAM WALLACE (late of Strome Ferry Hotel), Proprietor. LAUSANNE (Switzerland). GRAND HOTEL RICHE-MONT. TjURST-CLASS HOTEL. Splendidly situated. L Large gardens. Beautiful view. Lift. Baths. Electric Light. Reduced pension prices during the winter season. IVrite for tariff and illustrated pamphlet, post free. 1900. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 25 LISBON. BRAGANZA HOTEL. F j'H.lS FIRST'-CLASS well-known FAMILY HOTEL, lately renovated by the Royal ■ House of Braganza, and fitted up by the new Proprietor, Victor C. Sassetti, is highly recommendiible for its large, airy, and comfortable Apartments, commanding the most extensive and picturesque views of the River Tagus, as well as of Lisbon. Superior Cuisine and carefully selected Wines. LISBON. HOTEL DURAND (English Hotel) LARGO JDO QUINTELLA. FIRST CLASS ESTABLISHMENT. Situated in the must central part ot' the Town. Highly recommended for its comfort and moderate charges. Reading Room. Several languages spoken. LUGANO-CT. TESSIN. (SWITZERLAND.) HOTEL METROPOLE VILLA ENDERLIN. Lift. HOTEL LUGANO. A. BROCCA, Proprietor. I OPARftTf! t ERMINUS of the GOTHARD Luuilllil U* RAILWAY on LAGO MAGGIORE. BEST STOPPING PLACE ON THE ITALIAN LAKES. 27 hrs. from London. 17 hrs. from Paris. 4 hrs. from Milan. 7 hrs. from Genoa. 5 hrs. from Lucerne. the GRAND HOTEL OPEN the whole year. Most luxurious and comfortable home for all the seasons in Italy or Switzerland. Patronised by all the Royal Families. Unrivalled situation in the finest climate of Europe; without snow, wind or fog, but with plenty of sunshine. Enliv ly adapted for winter residence. Pronounced by the body Physician of II.M. The Kins of Bavaria and University—Prof. Aloys Martin —to be the healthiest and best All Seasons Resort. Beautiful walks and mountain excursions. English Church, Doctor, Society. Lift. Private Steamer and Carriages for visitors. Exquisite Cuisine. Moderate charges. Electric Light in every room. Coif. Messrs. BALLI, Proprietors. LUCERNE. HOTEL DU LAC. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Magnificent Establishment, recently enlarged by a New Wing of 100 Rooms. 300 Beds. Splendid situation on the Lake, where the River Reuss issues from it. Next to the General Post Office. Close to the Railway Station and Steam¬ boat Pier. This Establishment has every modern comfort. Lift, Electric Light, Central Steam Heating. Baths de Luxe, open from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. Beautiful Marble Vestibule and Staircase in the Italian Renaissance. PENSION ARRANGEMENTS FOR A LONG STAY. OPEN ALL THE YEAR ROUND. Proprietors: SPILLMANN A SICKEIiT. LYNTON, NORTH DEVON. ROYAL CASTLE FAMILY HOTEL. Patronised by the English and Continental Royal Families. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, especially favourite and attrac¬ tive. Table d’Hote. Reading and Drawing Rooms. New Smoking and Billiard Pavilions, all Facing the Sea. Magnificent Views, and Ornamental Grounds of Twelve Acres. ELECTRIC LIGHTING. THOS. BAKER, Proprietor. 26 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May* X* ■'3ET O :RT £5. BEST HOTEL IN FINEST SITUATION. THE GRAND HOTEL. THE MOST POPULAR AND FASHIONABLE. The Only Hotel at Lyons conducted on English Principles. MACOLIN (Lake of Bienne), Switzerland. T? R VIRHIIl V trave '*i n £ through BIENNE (Jura-Simplon Ry.) is entitled to JLi V LA I DUI/ I break his journey and should not tail to take the Funiculaire (1873 yds., up and down, I'fr.- 50 c.) to M'acYLin, 3,000 feet. Just the.place to..stay in S >ring and Autumn. See Baedeker and Bradshaw. Grandest View. Sheltered position. Over l,o; especially convenient for sightseeing. An English Home. Recommended to English and American Visitors. Taiiff and Electric Light in every room. Lift. Fixed charges, always including Baths in the Rooms, Light and attendance. NAPLES. TTATFT DDTCTAI CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE. One of the best rlUiijL ISlliij 1 UL, Hotels in Italy. Tne only flrstrelass Hotel, in the healthiest part of the town and in au elevated situation, enjoying a fall view of the unrivalled panorama. It is built of a I’omnact Lava stone which does not absorb moistuie, and fitted up with the best Sanitary Arrangements. Electric Li"ht in every Boom. Great Comfort. Excellent Cooking. Good Attendance. Lift. Moderate Prices and Arrangements tor Prolonged Stay. A. LAXDBY, Proprietor. This Hotel is open all the year round, and Visitors are respecttully requested not to allow themselves to he imnosed upon by interested parties and importunate Guides or Porters, as all necessary information is given at the Hotel Bristol for the excursions from Naples, and as to the best shops in the City._ 30 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, NAPLES. Hotel Grande Bretagne THIRST-CLASS HOUSE. Best Situated. ' Catholic Church in the Hotel. Every Modern Comfort. NERVI. HOTEL. VICTORIA. Near the Sex and Eailwav Station. 15 Minutes from G'moa. Stopping place for all express :rains. Patronised hv H.H. the Queen of Portugal, and H Exo. the Marschell von M ltke. H'STBH.AUX.XC LIFT MOOEKN HEATING APPARATUS. NEUCHATEL. GRAND HOTEL DE BELLE VUE, Mr. ALBERT ELSKES, Proprietor. First-Class Hotel . Magnificently situated on the Border of the Lake. Commanding splendid Views of the Panorama of the Alps. lift. Electric Light in nil the th orns. Carden. PENSION PRICES ALL THE YEAR ROUND. N.B.—Besides the Evening Train (direct) a Day Tiain is runni g between Nenchatel and Paris and vice rerun. CENTRA!. HEATING THROUGHOUT. NEUCHATEL (Switzerland). Hotel des Alpes and Hotel Terminus. 1 1.NEST view from Ne.ucha.tel of the whole Panorama of the Town and Chain of the Alps froliT'S’intis to Mont Blanc. Entirely rebuilt. Lift. Electric Light. Large secluded Garden. E. HALLER, Proprietor. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK TO ALGERIA AND TONIS. By Col. Sir Lambert Pla'fair, K.C.M.G., H. B.iVL Consul-Gen: for Algeria and Tmitsv Fifth Edition. Numerous Maps and Plans. 10s. 6tf. NEUHAUSEN, SWITZERLAND. FALLS OF THE RHINE. VIEW FROM THE HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, replete with every convenience. 200 Rooms. Fire Escapes. Hydraulic Lift. Electric Light , FINE slthlcI O Lawn Tennis—Carriages—Storage for Bicycles—Dark Room. A Charming Summer Resort, noted for its healthy position, bracing air, and most beautiful landscape. BY MEANS OF ELECTRICITY AND BENGAL LIGHTS THE FALLS OF THE RHINE ARE BRILLIANTLY ILLUMINATED EVERY NIGHT DURING THE SEASON. English Divine Service in the Church located in the Grounds of the Schweizerhof. 1900. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 31 NUREMBERG. EAGLE HOTEL. SE. Newly rebuilt. 200 Beds. Most central and best v English and Americans. Arrangements made. Baths, tl Heating 1 in Corridors and every Room. Lift. ler the personal management of the Proprietor, _ WILLY SCHLENK. NURNRERG (NUREMBERG! hotel bayerjscher-hof. i IHS Fiot-nttc and Superior Hotel, situated in the centre of the t>wn, is highly spokin of In English and . inenoan liavellers for its general comfort and tnoderate charges. Has been greatly enlarged, and contains now 100 well.inrnished rooms and saloons. Ladies’ and Reading Saloon, Smoking Room. ~o.» J..NI \jiJ J&x : Kept by E. RENAULT. T>EST situation in the Town, Great Morska'ia, right opposite the Winter Palace, Hermitage, Foreign Office and Nevski Prospect. Oldest Hotel. Tramways in all directions. Fashionably frequented, especially by English and Americans. Elegant Reading Room, with French, English, American, German, and Swedish Papers. Greatly to be recommended for its cleanliness, comfort, and superior cuisine. Dinners 1 r. 50 k. and 3r. The charge for Apartments is from 1 to 20 roubles. All languages spoken. Warm and Cold Baths. Post and Telephone on the Premises. The English Guide, Bernard Franke, highly com¬ mended. The Hotel is recommended in Murray’s Handbook of Russia. The HOTEL BELLE VUE, opposite to HOTEL HE FRANCE, belongs to the same Proprietor. 40 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Mav, •> STUTTGART. IBCOITCB 3L. Direct Entrance front the Hallway Station. FINEST POSITION IN TOWN. SPLENDID NEW BUILDING. FIRST CLASS. 300 ROOMS. ELECTRIC LIGHT. CENTRAL HEATING. ELEVATORS. Rooms from 2’50 Marks upwards. H. & 0. MARQUARDT. STUTTGART. HOTEL ROYAL. Opposite the statiou. 100 elegantly fur¬ nished rooms from M. 2 upwards. Elevator. Central Heating. Electric Light. A. BANZHAF, Proprietor. TUNIS. Grand Hotel de Paris. FIRST GLASS. FULL SOUTH. Patronised by English Families. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK TO SWITZERLAND. Part 1.—SWITZERLAND without the PENNINE ALPS* With 16 Maps and Plaus. 6s. 18th Edition. Part II.—The PENNINE ALPS, portions of the FRENCH and PIEDMONTESE ALPS, and the ITALIAN LAKES. With 12 Maps and Plans. 6s. 18 th Edition. TAORMINA (s icily), Italy. GRAND HOTEL Si&N DOMENICO. 'j'HE ONLY FIRST-CLASS ENGLISH FAMILY HOTEL. Situated Southward, with I Garden, Terraces, Lawn Tennis, Winter Garden. Ancient HiTorh ai convent, enjoying a full unrivalled view of the Panorama. Situated in the finest and most select part of Taormina. Views cf Etna and the Ionian Sea. French Cooking. Most comfortable. Arrange¬ ment for prolonged stay. Quite near the Post-Office and Telegraph. TOURS. GRAND HOTEL DE ■ L’UNIVERS. ON THE BOULEVARD, NEAR THE STATION. EUROPE A IN REPUT ATI O TV. Highly recommended in all the French and Foreign Guide Books. EUGENE GUILLAUME, Proprietor. 19o0. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 41 TOURS. GRAND HOTEL DE BORDEAUX. Proprietor, CLOVIS DELIGNOU. Patronised by His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, and the European Courts. IN FRONT OF THE STATION AND UPON THE BOULEVARD. __ SPLENDID APARTMENT S. TRENTO, SOUTH TYROL. IMPERIAL HOTEL TRENTO. First-class House, Great Comfort. Central Steam Heating, Electiic Light. Lawn Tennis Ground. Splendid position. Centre for Dolomites and Glaciers Excursions. Patronised by the Empress Frederick and English and American Gentry. Best place for breaking journey on the Brenner Line between Munich, Venice, or Rome. Spring and Autumn Season. F. J. OESTERREICHER, Proprietor. Branch House— Grand Hotel des Alpes, Madonna di Campiglio, the -Tyrolese St. Moritz, 1553 Metres above the Sea. Season, June-October. Prospectus on Application. • BLACK FOREST. TRIBERG, 715 Metres above the Sea. • r. H i;If HI.E. Proprietor. Best situation, near the Waterfalls, for a long - time well known as HOTEL iz. “OCHSEN.” Every English comfort. Baths. Park Garden. Electric Light. Milk Cure. Omni¬ bus at the Station. Carriages. Moderate charges. Pension. Telepli ne. Conceits in trout of the Hotel. I'he proprietor gives best information for excursions in the Black Forest. The Hotel Wehrle, not very large, but very comfortable, is highly recom¬ mended by German and foreign Guide Books. • GOOD TROUT FISHING. • TRIBERG. CENTRE OF THE BADENIAN BLACK FOREST. FIRST-CLASS CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORT. Louis Bieringers Schyvarzwald Hotel (715 metres above the level of the sea.) FIRST-CLASS HOUSE, the only one in the immediate vicinity of the Waterfall and close to the Forest. Electric Light in all Rooms. Sale of Railway Tickets and dispatch of baggage in the Hotel. Omnibus at all Trains. Elegant Carriages for Excursions. Richly assoited International Reading Room. Opening - of the Season, 1st of May. The wonderfully fine and quiet location of the Hotel, 40 metres abwe the town, with full view on the Mountains, offers a very agieeable abode. Trout Fishing. LOUIS BIERINGER, Proprietor. Branch: HOTEL SOMMER, Badenweiler. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK TO NORTH ITALY & VENICE, Turin, Milan, The Italian Lakes, Verona, Padua, Venice, Bologna, Ravenna, Parma, Modena, Genoa, &e. With 34 Maps and Plans. 10s. 16ih Edition. 42 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, TURIN. tag Hotel Trwtella et Otfielerrc. In View of the Central Station, Rue de Rome. First-class House in every respect. Very moderate charges. Railway Booking Office in the Hotel. Hydraulic Lift. Electric light throughout. Heated by hot-air stoves. A. BAGLIONI, Proprietor. Branch House— Grand Hotel d’ltalie, Bologna. VENICE. HOTEL DE L’EUROPE FIRST-CLASS HOUSE, Situated in the best position on the Grand Canal. Magnificent view on the Lido, S. Giorgio, S. Maria della Salute. GREATLY IMPROVED. ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT THE HOUSE. LIFT. FEFFECT SANITATION. Patronised by the most distinguished Families. •MARSEILLE BROTHERS. Proprietors. VENICE. Hotel d'ltalie Bauer. Near St. Mark's Square. On the Grand Canal. Facing the Church of St. Maria Salute. 250 ROOMS. ELECTRIC LIGHT. JPost Office imt. tiluo JrXo&el. GRAND RESTAURANT BAUER GRUNWALD. Rendezvous of the Best Society. J. GRUNWALD, Sen., Proprietor. 1900. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 43 VIENNA. HOTEX^ BELLEVUE. (Faci- g Franz Josefs Kailway Station.) Family Hotel. Special ■ Tariff for Commercial i ravell r-*. 100 Elegant Rooms from one liorin. Light aud Service will not t>e charged. Electric Light. LEOPOLD GARAI, Proprietor. GRAND HOTEL DU PARC and HOTEL. THE LARGEST AND MOST COMFORTABLE IN VICHY. A FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, situated in the Park, facing the Baths, Springs, and Casino. PRIVATE PAVILION for FAffilMES. Hydropathic Installation. Electric Light. Lift. GER1VIOT, Proprietor. ON THE PARK OPPOSITE KIOSQUE 0 MUSIC. GRAND HOTEL DES AMBASSADEURS & CONTINENTAL. ROUBEAU Sc COLLET, Proprietors. Entirely Re-arranged and considerably Enlarged. Is the mo-t elegant, comfortable and best situated in Vicby, and the only one Ireqtv nt.ed by the Ro al Family of England. A part of the Hotel is arranged and warmed specially for the winter season. It is the only Hotel at Vichy having a general hygienic installation. _ _Pension from 12fr. per day.___ ___ ON THE PARK FACING THE CASINO. v x II., Vienna IV. D LECTRIC LIGHT. Telephone No. 796. Tramway Station for all parts of the town. Near the £j Oper and Sud State Railway Station. Favourite Family Hotel (considerably enlarged). Renowned for cleanliness and attentive service. Moderate terms. Large Restaurant with splendid garden. Electric light and service will not he charged. Baths. Cook's coupons accepted. JOSEF HAAGEN. VIENNA. HOTEL METROPOLE. First-Class and best situated Hotel. Especially frequented by English and Americans. 300 ROOMS FROM 5 TO 25 KRONEN. Electric Light and Attendance Included. Hydraulic Lift. WIESBADEN. HOTIHILi RO SE BATHS. T HIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, with every modern comfort, is newly enlarged by a splendid building, and situated in the finest and healthiest part of V\ iesbaden, opposiie the Pro¬ menade close to die Outhouse and Royal Theatre. Private Suites of Apartments consisting of Saloon, Bedroom Toilet and Bath Boom. In the Hotel is a beautiful new Bath House, with Baths supplied from toe principal Spring—the Rockbrnnnen. Most elegant Public Rooms, Lift, Klectric Light, Steam Heating. Arrangements made for* a prolonged stay. H. IIAEF It NER. Proprietor, WIESBADEN. SWAN HOTEL Mineral Water direct from the principal Kochbrunnen. Lift. Electric Light. W. NEUENDORFF, Proprietor. WIESBADEN. HOTEL BELLE VUE. Beautifully situated, opposite the Park. Well-known for its Comfort and Good Cuisine. Central Heating. Electric Light. Moderate Charges. Good 'lrout Fishing. Pension. VICTOR KLEEBLATT, Proprietor. 46 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, WIESBADEN. HOTEL Q U I S I S A N A. Unrivalled position— PARK STRASSE— a hundred steps from the Kurhouse. A BEAUTIFUL FIRST-CLASS ESTABLISHMENT. The Only One in WIESBADEN on Elevated Ground. OFFERS HOME COMFORT TO ENGLISH & AMERICAN FAMILIES. LIFT. | ELECTRIC LIGHT. \ GARDENS. SPLENDID MINERAL WATER BATHS- v . PENSION AT REASONABLE TERMS. Apply for Prospectus to toe Proprietor, F. ROSER. WILDBAD (Black Forest). HOTEL KLUMPP HYDRAULIC LIFTS TO EVERY FLOOR. THIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, with separate Breakfast, Reading, Lady’s and Conversation Rooms, as well as a Smoking Room. Large handsome Dining Saloon. An artificial garden over the river. Beautifully situated in connection with the Old and New Bath Buildings and Conversation House. Five minutes’ walk from the English Church, and in the imme¬ diate vicinity of the Park and Pump Room. Well known for its elegant and comfortable apartments. Good Cuisine and Wines, and deserves its wide-spread reputation as one of the be^t hotels on the Continent. Table d’hote. Restaurant. Correspondents of principal Banking Houses of London, New York, Ac., for the payment of Circular Notes and Letters of Credit. OMNIBUS OF THE HOTEL MEETS EVERY TRAIN. FINE PRIVATE CARRIAGES. Capital Trout Fishing in the River Euz. PAWN TENNIS AND CROQUET. Reduced Terms ‘or Rooms m May and September. FKCELLENT ACCOMMODATION. -Bolder Finest situated Hotel in Zurich. Newly opened with Latest Improvements of Comfort. Surrounde i oy Magnificent Woods and Parks FINEST GOLF LINKS ON THE CONTINENT. J tail Coach. Tennis. Golf. ASK FOR TARIFF— E. DEILMANN, Manager. GRAND HOTEL. 1900 - MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 47 SWITZERLAND (ZERMATT). VIEGE-ZERPTT RfllLttlflYS GO.’S And Zermatt Gornergrat Electric ( 10,170 feet ) NARROW GAUGE COG WHEEL RAILWAYS. ZERMATT. Seiler’s Grand Hotels. HOTEL MONT ROSA. HOTEL MONT CERVIN. HOTEL ZERMATT. HOTEL RIFFELALP. HOTEL RIFFEL. HOTEL SCHWARZ SEE. Buffet at the Station. Doctor. Chemist. Baths. Moderate Prices. OPEN FROM 1st MAY TO 30th OCTOBER. Open from 15th M«y to 31st, October. Matterhorn, 14,700 feet. Mont Rosa, 15,200 feet. Goerner Grat, 10, J50 feet. These lines are the most interesting and 'pictun sque in the world. The j-urney from Viege to Zermatt now only takes 2£ hours and h >urs from Zermatt to Gornergrat; formerly it was a 9 hours walk to Zermait. Very comfort .ble Carriages. Special Saloon Carriages to enable one to see the Grand Scenery along the line. For departure of the Trains see the Time Table. 4-8 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 1000. ZERMATT. GRAND HOTEL TERMINUS. LMRST-CLASS HOTEL with every modern comfort. Baths. Electric Light. Restaurant. T Table d’hote. Billiards. Cafe. Reading and Drawing Booms. Covered Verandah. Guides. Carriages and Moles at the Hotel. Coupons accepted. Open from 15th May to 30th October. DOL-LAUBER, Proprietor. DINNEFORD’S MAGNESIA. The best Remedy for Acidity of the Stomach, Heartburn, Headache, Gout and Indigestion ; the Safest Aperient for Delicate Constitutions, Ladies, Children, and Infants. SOLD THROUGHOUT THE WORLD. Pocket Handbook OF Travel Talk. ENGLISH, FRENCH, GERMAN, and ITALIAN. (in Parallel Columns.) EIGHTEENTH EDITION. With Special Section for Cyclists. 32mo., 3s. 6d. W\r>> owi/»/v/»yvW oW o The Conversations supply every Modern Phrase likely to be used by Travellers at the Present Day. “ One of the most useful pocket companions .”—Vanity Fair. “ Shows the wanderer how to carry on conversation in all the essential arts of life in four tongues.”— Daily News. “ A cyclist who can ascertain whether the road is ‘ bumpy/ or point out that his ‘nut’ is loose or his ‘tyre punctured, may surely regard himself as equipped for every linguistic emergency.”— Guardian. “ The best of its kind, judiciously modernized.”— Athenaeum. “ One of the most useful phrase books in existence.”— Queen. A Neat Convenient Book suitable for carrying in One's Pocket. Lon i on: JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street, W. RARE BOOK COLLECTION THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF NORTH CAROLINA AT CHAPEL HILL Murray 1541 MURRAY’S ENGLISH HANDBOOKS. HANDBOOK—ENVIRONS OF LONDON—Including a Circuit 20 Miles round the Metropolis. 2 Parts. 21s. HANDBOOK—EASTERN COUNTIES— Chelmsford, Harwich, Col¬ chester, Maldon, Cambridge, Ely. Newmarket, Bury St. Edmunds, Ipswich, Woodbridge, Felixstowe, Lowestoft, Norwich, Yarmouth, Cromer, &c. With 7 Maps and Plans. 12s. HANDBOOK—SURREY—(Including Aldershot) — Kingston, Croy¬ don, Reigate, Guildford, Dorking, Boxhill, &c. With 6 Maps. 6s. HANDBOOK—ISLE OF WIGHT— Ryde, Cowes, Ventnoe, &c. With an Introductory Sketch of the History of the Islaud, by li. E. Prothero, M.A. Map. 2s. 6cf. HANDBOOK — HAMPSHIRE— Winchester, Southampton, New Forest, Portsmouth. With 7 Maps and Plans. 6s. HANDBOOK—OXFORDSHIRE— Aylesbury, HenlwOxford, Blen¬ heim, the Thames, &c. 13 Maps and Plans. 6s. HANDBOOK — KENT —Canterbury, Dover, R^jvisgate, Rochester, Chatham, &c. 7 Maps, mostly on the scale of J n;in to the mile. 7s. 6d. HANDBOOK—SUSSEX —Brighton, Chichester, Worthing, Hastings, Lewes, Arundel, &c. 7 Maps, mostly on the scale of \ inch to the mile. 6s. HANDBOOK — DEVON — Exeter, Ilfracombe, Linton, Sidmouth, Dawlish, Teignmouth, Plymouth, Devonport, Torquay, &c. 12 Maps and Plans. 7s. 6 d . HANDBOOK—CORNWALL— Launceston, Penzance, Falmouth, The Lizard, Land’s End, Ac. 7 Maps and Plans. 6s. HANDBOOK—NORTH WALES— Bangor, Carnarvon, Beaumaris, Snowdon, Llanberis, Dolgelly, Cader Idris, Conway, &c. 5 Maps. 6s. HANDBOOK—SOUTH WALES —Monmouth, Llandaff, Merthyr, Vale of Neath, Pembroke, Carmarthen, Tenby, Swansea, and the Wye, Ac. Map. 6s. HANDBOOK—DERBY, NOTTS, LEICESTER, AND STAFFORD— Matlock, Bakewell, Chatsworth, 'J he Peak, Buxton, Hardwick, Dovedale, Ashbokne, Southwell, Mansfield, Retford, Burton, Belvoir, Melton Mow¬ bray, Wolverhampton, Lichfield, Walsall, Tamworth, &c. 12 Maps and Plans, mostly on the scale of h, inch to the mile. 9s. HANDBOOK — SHROPSHIRE AND CHESHIRE — Shrewsbury, Ludlow, Bridgnorth, Oswestry, Chester, Crewe, Alderley, Stockport, Birkenhead. 8 Maps and Plans. 6s. HANDBOOK — LANCASHIRE— Warrington, Bury, Manchester, Liverpool, Burnley, Clitheroe, Bolton, Blackburn, Wigan, Preston, Rochdale, Lancaster, Southport, Blackpool, &c. Map. 6s. HANDBOOK-YORKSHIRE— Doncaster, Hull, Selby, Beverley, Scarborough, Whitby, Harrogate, Bipon, Leeds, Wakefield, Bradford, Halifax, Huddersfield, Sheffield, &c. 12 Maps and Plans. 12s. HANDBOOK—LINCOLNSHIRE— Grantham, Lincoln, Stamford, Sleaford, Spalding, Gainsborough, Grimsby, Boston, &c. 4 Maps and Plans. 7s. M. HANDBOOK — DURHAM AND NORTHUMBERLAND — New¬ castle, Darlington, Bishop Auckland, Stockton, Hartlepool, Sunderland, Shields, Berwick, Tynemouth, Alnwick, &c. b Maps and Plans. 10s. HANDBOOK—THE LAKES (WESTMORELAND AND CUMBER¬ LAND — Lancaster, Furness Abbey, Ambleside, Kendal, Windermere, Coniston, Keswick, Grasmere, Ulswater, Carlisle, Cockermoutii, Penrith, Appleby, &c. 5 Maps. 6s. May, 1900. [ Continued. MURRAY’S ENGLISH HANDBOOKS— {continued). HANDBOOK—NORTHAMPTON AND RUTLAND. With Maps and Plans forming the 2nd Edition. Crown 8vo. HANDBOOK—HEREFORD AND WORCESTER— Leominster, Ross, Malvern, Kidderminster, Dudley, Bromsgrove, Evesham. 5 Maps. 5s. HANDBOOK —HERTS, HUNTINGDON AND BEDS — Bedford, Hatfield, Huntingdon, Luton, St. Albans, Tring, Ware, Watford, &c. 10 Maps and Plans. 7s. 6 d . HANDBOOK — GLOUCESTERSHIRE — Gloucester, Cheltenham, Tewkesbury, Bristol, &c. 3 Maps and Plans. 6s. HANDBOOK—WARWICKSHIRE —Warwick, Kenilworth, Coven¬ try, Stratford-on-Avon, Birmingham, &c. 10 Maps and Plans. 6s. HANDBOOK—BERKSHIRE AND BUCKINGHAMSHIRE. Almost entirely re-written. With Maps, &c. HANDBOOK—SOMERSETSHIRE. With Maps and Plans. 6s. HANDBOOK—WILTS AND DORSETSHIRE. With Maps and Plans. 6s. SCOTLAND. HANDBOOK — SCOTLAND — Edinburgh, Melrose, Abbotsford, Glasgow, Dumfries, Galloway, Ayr, Stirling, Arran, The Clyde, Oban, Inveraray, Loch Lomond, Loch Katrine and Trosachs, Caledonian Canal, Inverness, Perth, Dundee, Aberdeen, Braemar, Skye, Caithness, Ross, Sutherland, &c. 30 Maps and Plans. 9s. IRELAND. HANDBOOK — IRELAND — Dublin, Belfast, Donegal, Galway, Wexford, Cork, Limerick, Waterford, Killarney, Glengariff, Bantry, &c. An entirely Neiv (and 5th) Edition. 19 Maps and Plans. 9s. MURRAY’S CYCLIST’S ROAD-BOOK— From London through Chichester, Portsmouth, Southampton to the New Forest, and Back by Romsey, Winchester, Dorking, Leatherhead and Epsom. Illustrated by a Road Atlas at the end of the book. Fcap. 8vo. 2s. ENGLISH CATHEDRALS. HANDBOOK—SOUTHERN CATHEDRALS —Winchester, Salis¬ bury, Exeter, Wells, Rochester, Canierbury, Chichester, and St. Albans. With 180 illustrations. 2 \ols. Crown 8vo. 36s. *** St. Albans Cathedral, separately , 6s. HANDBOOK—EASTERN CATHEDRALS— Oxford, Peterborough, Ely, Norwich, and Lincoln. With 90 Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 21s. HANDBOOK—WESTERN CATHEDRALS— Bristol, Gloucester, Hereford, Worcester, and Lichfield. With 60 Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 16s. HANDBOOK—WELSH CATHEDRALS —Llandaff, St. David’s, Bangor, and St. Asaph’s. With Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 15s. HANDBOOK — ST. PAUL’S CATHEDRAL. With Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 10s. 6 d. JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET, W. May, 1900. Loudon, John MtirraY. Albemarle HAMPSHIRE and ISLE of WIGHT :Mil'llliiMli '