o A SPORTSMAN OF LIMITED INCOME m .jvn See paf^e 176- A SPORTSMAN OF LIMITED INCOME RECOLLECTIONS OF FIFTY YEARS BY J. A. BRIDGES author of "reminiscences of a country politician' . » LONDON: ANDREW MELROSE 3 YORK STREET, Covent Garden 1910 The Author wishes to acknowledge the courtesy of the Editor of The Cor?ihill Magazine in allowing him to reprint part of an article that appeared in that periodical. CONTENTS CHAP. I. Sport for Limited Incomes II. My First Hare III. Sport at Eton IV. At "the House" in the Fifties V. America. — I VI. America.— II VII. America. — III . VIII. Bridgnorth . IX. Cattle-Dealers in the Sixties X. Farmers as Specialists XI. The Wheatland Hunt XII. John Eyke and Sacharometer XIII. King's Norton . XIV. Hunt Meetings in the Sixties XV. Gentlemen Riders XVI. Black Cotton and her Progeny XVII. Scenes on Racecourses XVIII. The Decay of Horse-Breeding XIX. Trainers and Publishers . XX. Birmingham Thirty Years Ago XXI. London Fifty Years Ago . XXII. Changes in Sports XXIII. The Return of the Native PAGE I II 17 34 52 68 87 106 121 131 137 155 161 185 195 206 221 241 247 265 277 297 A SPORTSMAN OF LIMITED INCOME CHAPTER I. SPORT FOR LIMITED INCOMES. A GREAT deal of objectionable matter has lately- been printed on *' sport for limited incomes," and the doubtless well-meaning writers may have overlooked the fact that every time they put pen to paper, with the intention of showing that there are still a few gleanings to be appropriated by the active and enthusiastic sports- man who is without a superabundance of coin, they are depriving their unfortunate clients of the very goods with which they are professedly endowing them. There is already close competition between millionaires and semi- millionaires on the look out for the best available sport, and with a preference, if possible, to get it for little money. Some of these have to put up with the leavings of their shrewder or more fortunate rivals, while the remainder hasten, by motor-car, to annex the little remnant which, in default of advertising, might still have been vailable for sportsmen with limited incomes. Moreover, in these days of rapidly acquired fortunes, it appears to me rude and impertinent to suggest that there is any one who could not if he chose rent a deer forest in Scotland or A A Sportsman of Limited Income a river in Norway. The very paupers are competing for luxuries until recently reserved for the wealthy, and it is hard to say where the competition will stop. In a few years we may find the Guardians of West Ham or Hammersmith renting *' shootings" for themselves and their charges, which would surely be preferable to spend- ing the ratepayer's money on the palatial workhouses of which we have recently been reading. Even if the few remaining chances had not been adver- tised to death by the well-intentioned writers — when, I wonder, will the proverbial pavement be completed ? — sport for the man of limited income would soon have been a thing of the past. The man who could once live fairly comfortably in the country on his few hundreds a year is now between the devil and the deep sea, and being squeezed out of existence between the paupers to whose luxurious idleness he contributes, and the millionaires from South Africa and elsewhere for whose motor-cars he has to provide roads, of the use of which he is day by day being more completely deprived. It is his income that is ear-marked as the first spoil of the Socialist, of whose speedy advent Lord Rosebery has declared himself to be assured. There will soon be nothing left for him but to find a substitute for sport in the more or less monotonous duties in which he may happen to be engaged. And this attempt for some happily constituted natures may not be so utterly hopeless as at first sight it may appear. No doubt there are many men true sportsmen at heart, who never pulled trigger or crossed a horse, and who are yet not discontented with their lot ; lawyers whose joy, when they have succeeded in fleecing the client with whom they were quite recently on friendly terms, may be supposed to equal that of a 2 Sport for Limited Incomes bookie on "skinning the lamb," though the latter may show his satisfaction more uproariously ; money-lenders whose delight on landing a big fish may exceed that of the successful angler, inasmuch as the latter is under the disadvantage of paying for his amusement. Though I am neither a lawyer nor a "bookie" I have had occasion- ally to content myself with sport picked up in places where there seemed very little possibility of finding any, and I have even found a County Council meeting prefer- able to nothing at all. This frame of mind should be the easier since a man may own a favourite for the Derby, or the winner of the Eclipse Stakes, and yet be a miserable hound. A true sportsman, directly he gets to a place, will set to work at something, if only at clearing out the rats. Wherever he goes he will make the best of things, and by following Horace's advice to this effect he will not only find some measure of happiness himself, but will also help those who, but for his example, might have found their lives unbearable burdens. He will be a staunch friend, but should friends fail him, his enemies should be made to contribute to his enjoyment, and the more the meaner they are. With regard to shooting, it must be acknowledged that a good deal of what in my youthful days was considered sport would now be despised by those who, never having experienced the joy of the old-fashioned sportsman when making his moderate bag over pointers or setters, con- sider a big bag and the consequent humiliation of the neighbouring magnate the only desideratum. Talking to a largish landowner the other day, I chanced to inquire how his young pheasants were doing. " Fairly well," he replied ; *' but I haven't enough ; no one will come and 3 A Sportsman of Limited Income shoot with me." He looked quite unhappy. I suppose he meant that the crack shots who go about from battue to battue would not give him the benefit of their skill. Of old the sportsman of limited income used to distribute his spare game amongst his friends and neighbours even less amply endowed. Some of these may have been already provided for, when they would pass on the gift to another, and it was wonderful of how much pleasure a few brace of birds would be the cause, sometimes visiting several houses before being finally domesticated. Now, after his enormous expenses, the successful pheasant-breeder naturally sends his game to the dealers. But little of it, however cheap it may be, reaches the class by whom it was formerly so appreciated, and, except perhaps at some surburban workhouse, the poorer classes do not benefit at all, and doubtless a few flocks of sheep would be better for the country at large than all the pheasants. Our family had for about 200 years inhabited the village of St. Nicholas at Wade in the Isle of Thanet, where my grandfather prospered during the Peninsular War. A miniature recalls my grandmother, a thread between her finger and thumb, seated at a little table to which is attached a mahogany spinning-wheel. Neither she nor my grandfather were of the order of beings since become celebrated who toiled not neither did they spin. My father married after leaving Oxford, and, having no taste for farming, settled at Walmer, then a small amphibious village, which, though anything but a sporting locality in the usual acceptation of the term, was yet not without its claims to distinction. Its fleet of luggers, manned by the bravest sailors in the world, earned for it and its neighbour Deal undying fame. In the days before steam, 4 Sport for Limited Incomes wrecks were far more frequent on that coast than is the case now. I have watched from our house, when I was a boy, a line of twenty or more luggers towing a wreck off the Goodwins. One or two of these famous boats may still be seen drawn up high and dry, for what purpose it is hard to say, since they never go to sea — to recall, may be, the ancient glories, or continue a futile protest against steam. The descendants of the old sailors for whom no sea was too rough, or wind too wild, still utilise the ocean in the only way left to them, by providing pleasure boats for the visitors whom they entertain with tales of other and more glorious days. Our house was near Walmer Castle, then the official residence of the Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports, in those days no less a person than the Great Duke of Wellington. My parents were occasional visitors at the castle. Once my father was present at an entertainment in honour of some foreign notables. We had a favourite black and tan terrier who had arrived at a great age, not without being afflicted with the mange. After luncheon the party adjourned to the ramparts, where my father was not greatly pleased to be joined by the old dog, who had somehow gained, admission, and who showed his apprecia- tion of the foreigners by utilising them, somewhat to their annoyance, as rubbing posts. In the summer-time the Cockney visitors used to attend church to stare at the duke.. They would sit in rows on the steps leading up from the old chancel, which was on a lower level than the rest of the building ; the local gentry, as a rule, declining to admit them into their pews. The duke was then very deaf, and used politely to fix a patent arrangement in his ear when the parson took up his position beneath the sounding board ; this 5 A Sportsman of Limited Income done he would go quietly off to sleep. He used to wear white trousers and a spencer. A spencer was a sort of grown-up Eton jacket worn over a long coat. Spencers have been long out of fashion, which is perhaps as well, since there are no men like the duke left to wear them. If there had been, the recent attack on dukes would have had fewer supporters. He was then considered, rightly, I think, the greatest man in the world. Had he not beaten Boney ? There must, however, have been a few who were surprised at his rising to such eminence. I remember a friend of my father relating how he saw him, when a young man, standing on the steps of one of the few then existent clubs with a vacant look on his face, playing with a bande- lore, the winding up and unwinding of which seemed to engage all his attention ; and there are no doubt quite a number of young men to-day to whom the resuscitation of this once fashionable toy would be a boon and blessing. Salutes continued to be fired from the ancient guns on the battlements of Walmer Castle till late in the fifties. I remember riding out of Deal on my pony one morning when I overtook Captain Watts (seneschal, or something, of the three castles, Walmer, Deal, and Sandown — like the more celebrated King of Bohemia) hurrying on foot to the castle to fire a salute in honour of some foreign potentate whose vessel was disappearing in the distance. I jumped off my pony, rather a sorry animal, when he mounted it, and was soon blazing away. The pony came down with me a few days afterwards, taking all the buttons off my waistcoat. Later the saluting was stopped, as it was the cause of breaking the castle windows. Our nearest neighbour for some time was the then famous novelist, G. P. R. James, who, after a brief popu- larity, was remembered chiefly to be laughed at for the two 6 Sport for Limited Incomes " lonely mounted horsemen " with whom he was said always to commence business. Over the shoulders of the younger of the two " the rich chestnut hair curled in thick pro- fusion." When people had done laughing at the two horsemen — who were less ubiquitous than was imagined — they forgot G. P. R. James. Yet I am not sure that some of his work is not worthy of being remembered. A novelist at that date had but few competitors, and no doubt a little more competition would have been good for James. Some of his novels (which used to arrive at our house immediately after publication) were poor enough stuff, while others had the germs of something better. Whatever his novels may have been, G. P. R. James was in private life a most entertaining man. Evidently Charles Lever, a capable judge of literary merit, thought highly of him ; witness the correspond- ence inserted between the two parts of Harry Lorrequer, James's elder son was a playmate of mine, and an original, whatever his father may have been. He was up to all sorts of mischief, one of his pranks being the erection of a flagstaff in a big holly tree in the grounds, on which he used to run up signals which were clearly visible to the ships waiting for orders in the Downs. Old Green, the head of a great shipping firm, had also a flagstaff opposite his house on the beach, and our supplementary signals were the cause of some friction, till one day they were put an end to " by order." ;. Our church had originally been a tiny building, whose chief claim to notice was the quaint Saxon porch, under which strange-looking beings, supposed to be antiquarians, might occasionally be seen uncouthly gesticulating. In anticipation of an enlargement of the little watering-place, the churchwardens had run out a square brick building, 7 A Sportsman of Limited Income crowned with a slate roof, at the back of the old church. From our pew in the new building, which was on a higher level than the old one, and was reached by a flight of steps, we children used to peep over the boundary fence — save at Christmas-time, when the sprigs of holly, with which it was temporarily adorned, converted it into a prickly hedge — and watch the little squire and his big family at their devotions far below us, as if at the bottom of a well. The old chancel ran on by itself, and formed a sort of cave, whence the minister's voice used to issue with a strangely muffled sound. We had to wait for its tardy arrival round the corner before we could " respond." The remainder of the old church was given up to an enormous " churching " pew, and the foundation of a " three-decker," whose exceptional height enabled it to make quite a respectable show, though it had got up to the knees — so to speak — before arriving at the level of the new building. The congregation, like the church, was rather mixed. We began, of course, with "the duke" then dropped to half a score or so of admirals, and about an equal number of post-captains — so called, I imagine, from having no posts — then a military official with red nose and collar to match, and after him the smaller fry. The sailors used to crowd the gallery in the new building ; when they stood up, their heads almost touched the ceiling, or upper deck, which I suppose suited them to a " T." They seemed to bring with them the murmur of the sea, as sea-shells do. The bees in summer came through the open windows, and, altogether, the effect was decidedly drowsy. It was on one of those afternoons that I, home from school for the holidays, instead of yielding to the influence of the place and hour, sat up straight on my seat, having 8 Sport for Limited Incomes suddenly discovered that I was in love. Amelia, the object of my youthful affections, was the daughter of a neighbouring squire who attended service at our church, where she assisted in the choir. She used frequently to dine at our house between the services. I have outlived my illusions, but I still believe her to have been the most charming girl in the world. She was about nineteen, tall and fair, with the bluest of blue eyes. She wore her brown hair arranged in broad, side plaits, as was the fashion then — in the country. I used to sit next her on Sunday at dinner, and sometimes was permitted to escort her home in the evening. No doubt she made merry at my expense, but if I had known it I should not have cared. I was unmindful of the gap between a girl of nineteen and a boy of fourteen, and saw nothing the least absurd in my devotion. Our parson was neither rector, vicar, nor curate. Like his parish, he was a sort of nondescript : neither fish nor fowl. Men called him a Perpetual Curate. It is long since I have met with any one holding that particular rank in the establishment, and I presume that, like other and possibly better things, the P.C. has been for some reason — good, bad, or indifferent — abolished. I am, how- ever, unable to recall any other custom or institution over whose grave some laudator temporis acti has not been ready to shed a tear. Why he was called " Perpetual " I have never been able to guess, since the fact that the race is extinct is proof that the title was a misnomer. Our P.C. was a short, stout, common-looking man, with a freckled face, a snub nose, and an inordinate craving for snuff and small beer. He lived, as had also been the custom with the movable Perpetuals who had preceded him, over the baker's shop at the fishing end of the village 9 A Sportsman of Limited Income no rectory, vicarage, or parsonage having been provided for his accommodation, nor is it Hkely that any of these words would appropriately have designated his domicile, supposing him to have had one. The baker's shop was probably stuffy ; whatever the reason, he shortly became a constant guest at our early Sunday dinner. On his second or third appearance he coolly wedged himself in between me and my charmer and engaged her in elephant- ine small talk. I laughed uneasily at his elderly gambols ; but I shall never forget the shock I received when, a few weeks later, my mother announced — as if it were a matter in which I could have but little interest — that Amelia and the Perpetual were engaged. I went back to school in due course, and, if I did not speedily recover from the blow, I had at least sense enough to bow to the inevitable. Years, long years passed, during which " there had been many other lodgers" in the "secret cell" once occupied by the divine Amelia. Shortly after his marriage, the Perpetual had been presented — no doubt partly owing to his wife's charming manners and personality — to a good living in a distant part of the country. One day I unexpectedly found myself in his neighbourhood, and lost no time in calling. I was talking to Amelia — who looked almost as young and beautiful as ever — and her husband, when three fine youngsters came into the room. I might have left with the impression that I had seen the whole family, but on a sudden there was an awful noise overhead as if the house was falling, followed by sounds of infant weeping. " Ah ! " exclaimed the ex-Perpetual with a sigh, as his wife rushed hurriedly from the room, " there are five more upstairs." I never forgave him that sigh. ic CHAPTER II. MY FIRST HARE. THE day I shot my first hare was a memorable one to me. I must have been twelve or thirteen years old. I don't think my father had ever been much given to shooting, but he had an ancient single-barrelled gun, inscribed with the name of a small local gunsmith, and with this I had shot several blackbirds, and very nearly the gardener. One first of September I was sent, in charge of the bailiff, to try my hand on a big farm in the Isle of Thanet, on which it was hoped I might find a few partridges. We commenced operations in an enormous field of seed clover; I don't think the farmer greatly enjoyed the sight of our trampling it, but he was too good- natured to object. After beating about half the field our setter found a covey. Whether I fired into the brown or not I can't say, but one bird fell and my companion marked down the survivors, about a dozen in number, half a mile away, in " the marshes." These were some middling-sized grass fields divided by dykes. The birds lay like stones in the little tufts of grass left by the sheep, till at last I nearly trod on one. There was no brown this time, at any rate, but a straight, easy shot, and I brought him down. Three more got up, one by one, from similar tufts, and then we couldn't find any more. However, I was delighted, having killed five birds without II A Sportsman of Limited Income a miss. We were going back, I suppose, to tramp the seed clover for another covey, probably non-existent, when I heard something — it might have been a hippopotamus — move in the rushes by the dyke, and a big hare ran out almost between my legs. I was a bit scared* but managed to knock her over ; it seemed like aiming at a barn door. The man took up the hare, and we were moving off when a loud voice hailed us from behind the rushes on the opposite bank ; it seems the ditch was our boundary. The voice belonged to a farmer who was either Master or a close friend of the local harriers, and I found he was abusing me in the strongest language known to the natives. I was a mere boy, and I think he might have been a little less objurgatory, but no doubt he felt strongly, and was not one of those who " couldn't trust himself to speak." I had never heard of these harriers, but I was soon made aware that to shoot a hare was locally considered tJie unpardonable sin. My body- guard stood up boldly to the farmer (though, of course, he knew all about the harriers, and ought to have warned me), but what with the man's roaring like a mad bull, and my fear that on my first day's shooting I had done an unsportsmanlike thing, my day was quite spoilt. I could have cried, and indeed I am not quite sure I didn't. I went back to our tenant's house ; he had provided a first-rate dinner, namely, a leg of four-year-old mutton — farmers in those days used to keep a score or so of four- year-old wethers for their own table — and afterwards he took me down to his cellar. This was reached by a flight of steps cut in the chalk, and was in the form of a cross, with arched roof and a receptacle for holy water, in which reposed several bottles of port wine, one of which accom- 12 My First Hare panied us on our return. In some far-away days of religious persecution the " cellar " had doubtless been used by Roman Catholics for the celebration of their interdicted rites. After I had had a glass of wine (the farmer very properly restricted me to one glass), and had presented my host with a brace of birds, I felt better and, returning home in the evening, was emboldened to lay a train of powder from my flask along the station platform, which I struck with my heel when the train drew up, to the surprise and indignation of the few passengers who were preparing to alight. Poor old station on the S.E.R. ! I saw it a few years ago, and should be surprised to learn that it had had a coat of paint since the day so long ago when I shot my first hare. I am not sure that the loud-voiced farmer had any- thing to do with it, but I have never been very keen on shooting hares. To hear the poor things cry out like children, in their terror and agony, has always been a bit too much for me. Yet I have had some good days with harriers. One season I hunted a good deal with the North Walsham in Norfolk, and saw some really good runs. Many years later I had several days with the Ashbourne Harriers in a stone wall country. This I enjoyed immensely, not having jumped a wall since riding with the Heythrop in my Oxford days. Towards the end of the day, no doubt, one got a little weary of riding round the same course and over exactly the same places in the same walls. A man named Cotton was Master of these hounds, and I always wondered that he did not get a good pack of Fox Hounds. He was a thoroughly good sportsman, and would have made a most capable M.F.H. Perhaps he was a little too much of a rough-rider, and he enjoyed tumbling about on half-made horses, and still 13 A Sportsman of Limited Income more on horses not made at all. I have lost sight of him for many years. In addition to hunting with harriers I have seen a hare torn to pieces and eaten alive at Aintree, and I have also witnessed the cruel farce of "coursing" on a gate-money racecourse. Hare-hunting with beagles I dislike, but perhaps I am not a competent judge of such matters. I chanced, however, to be present when some young Birmingham men in green uniforms were running with beagles on a farm near me in Worcestershire. They went round and round the farm, scouting my suggestion that puss had shown enough sport for one day. At last the poor animal lay down exhausted, and was picked up a few minutes afterwards quite stiff, as if she had been carved in wood. Some one may ask what is to be done with all the currant jelly if hares are not to be killed. Of course they must be killed, but they should not be tortured unnecessarily, and no one but a really good shot should be allowed to lift his gun at a hare. For my real apprenticeship to sport I was indebted to a neighbour of ours at Walmer, K , an eccentric man, but a thoroughly good sportsman, who had acquired the right of shooting snipe and wild-fowl on the four or five miles of waste land between Deal and Sandwich, which, together with an inland farm or two, now form part of the Sandwich golf links, and have done so much to resuscitate the ancient and once famous borough. Golfing was an unknown art in England when I was a lad. I don't greatly care for the game, yet I have played on the Sandwich links several times, and never without recalling my early shooting excursions. The sandhills were then the property of the Earl of Guildford, whose tenant must have done very well out of the swarms of rabbits — with which 14 My First Hare K was not allowed to interefere — now superseded by crowds of enthusiastic golfers. In my second year at Eton, K persuaded my father to give me a new gun, in lieu of the old-fashioned single barrel. K then took me to London and chose a gun at Samuel and Charles Smith's, Prince's Street, Leicester Square. In the shop of this famous firm of gun-makers I saw, in the forties, and long after the advent of the percussion-cap, a number of guns belonging to Sir Richard Sutton, one of the finest shots of that or any other day. These were all fitted with flint locks. Sir Richard being of opinion that they were quicker than percussion-caps. He could not have been very far wrong, as with a second gun he could get his two brace out of a covey. During that winter, K and I used to start early from Upper Walmer and, passing through Deal, would commence business by trying for a jack-snipe round a rushy pool in close proximity to Sandown Castle. The pool is still there, but the castle, of similar architecture to its neighbours of Deal and Walmer, was blown up some years ago by order of the Government, which might surely have preserved one of the three forts built by Henry Vlll. to withstand a French invasion, if only to show the contrast to our present more expensive mode ot securing immunity. K was the best snipe-shot I have ever seen ; but one day when there were three jack-snipe at the pool, we left them unharmed after blazing away for some time. Returning just before dark with a fair number of full snipe, we had another try for the little plagues, which may have been congratulating themselves, Agag-like, that the danger was passed, when K quickly added them to our bag. I suppose there are jack-snipe still, though it 15 A Sportsman of Limited Income IS many years since I saw one. They were indeed expen- sive little birds, costing as much powder and shot as would have sufficed to bag a young elephant, and having so little on them after all. One pouring wet day K , who was short-sighted, found increasing difficulty in keeping his spectacles dry. At last the tail of his shirt got thoroughly soaked, and he had to give up shooting, when his language, if ex- cusable, was quite unfit for publication. That was the only occasion on which I ever saw a pack of golden plover. We used to be attended by a strong lad, who carried a pole shod with a square piece of wood to assist us over the dykes, some of which were both wide and deep. The boy had crossed the dyke, and we were still on the other side, and out of sight below the level of the field, when we heard a whirr of wings, and some hundreds of golden plover — a sheet would have covered them — flew over, almost touching our heads. K had put down his gun to seize the pole which the boy was sending back. He picked it up quickly, though, to my surprise, he did not fire. It seems a lump of clay from the dyke-side had stuck on the butt of his gun and prevented him from putting it up to his shoulder. I had not acquired the art of jumping with a pole without a disaster or two. One day I did not send myself far enough, and when I should have been nearing the farther shore I began to go back again. There was an inch or two of ice on the dyke, but I went through it easily, and down to the mud at the bottom. It was freezing sharp, and my clothes were frozen as hard as boards. I was glad to get home and thaw them out. But it was all in the day's work and a useful lesson, for I certainly don't remember being caught napping again. i6 > 1-1 < Q < X O oi, o > O z w < zr o Q. < C/2 2 D B CHAPTER III. SPORT AT ETON. EFORE going to Eton I was for some time at the Cholmondely Grammar School, opposite the Old Gate House at Highgate. The headmaster, John Bradley Dyne, was a fairly good imitation of Squeers — of course with the necessary amount of veneer. He lived to a great age, and must have flogged some millions of boys, counting each flogging a boy. About forty years after I left, I made the acquaintance of a young man who had lived at Highgate, and whose father had taken him away from the Grammar School on account of the special attention paid to him by the headmaster. This did not astonish me, as the young man was very plump, and it was one of Dyne's weaknesses to be unable to resist a chubby boy. If, as is to be hoped, flogging, regarded as an exercise, was good for the executioner, I think that with few exceptions it did little harm to the victims. It may even have benefited them ; it had, at any rate, the effect of hardening me. - I had been pre- viously at several other schools, but never at any place where boys were more ready to fight on small or no pro- vocation. The big boys used to match two little fellows against one another, and the latter, I feel sure, were pleased with the compliment. I had endless fights at this school ; one with the son of Sir Richard Bethel, B 17 A Sportsman of Limited Income afterwards Lord Westbury, who had then a house on Highgate Hill. Dick Bethel used to bully me, but as he was in the sixth form I was afraid to fight him till a big boy, who was by way of being my patron, said he would lick me if I didn't. I decided on fighting, and after a long struggle in the gravelled playground, adjoining the bun-shop into which we used to be hurried by our backers to have our wounds attended to by the kindly baker, I came off victorious. Oddly enough, though I was quite ready to fight, and perhaps for that very reason, I never had a fight at Eton, though mills in " Sixpenny " were then very common, and invariably fought out to the bitter end. The only boy I remember at Dyne's who became of any note at all was Edmund Yates, afterwards owner of The World. He was a curious fellow, always ranting plays and songs, and after Christmas spouting pages and pages of some new pantomime that had taken his fancy. It seemed clear he would go on the stage, or to Astley's, where he would have made an excellent clown. He wrote two or three fairly good novels before making his mark with The Worlds but they are forgotten, as is the case no doubt with many others better fitted to survive. Yates' mother had been a rather celebrated actress, and boys who objected to him would keep in their desks a penny coloured portrait of Mrs. Yates, in one of her chief roles, to be produced when Edmund became too uproarious. I had hitherto gone up to London in a four-horse coach from Dover. When my father and mother went any distance they had, of course, to post. There were even in those days beginning to be too many people for the posthorses, and there was sometimes immense diffi- i8 Sport at Eton culty in completing a journey. If it had not been for railroads, people would have had to stay at home ; perhaps there would have been no great harm in that. Once 1 remember my father trying an experiment, and stopping to change horses at some second-rate changing houses, which on the London road were put in between the better known ones. But the experiment was a failure. These small changing houses are always recalled to me by Dibdin's High-Mettled Racer, where the postilions " loiter their time at some hedge alehouse door," and indeed they were little better. The Fountain, at Canter- bury, our last change coming from London, was in those days a famous house. I well remember old Wright, one of the last of the old-fashioned innkeepers, who always brought in the first dish and took off the cover with his own hands. Once when travelling down with my father we brought the gardener's son behind on the dicky. He had been a page in London, and had misbehaved himself. It was a bright, sunshiny day, and I had to keep my eyes on the shadow of the dicky, as my father expected him to jump down and make off. There was an end to the coaches when I went to Eton, or rather an end to their glories. Coaches were to die a lingering death in many out of the way places; and indeed they linger yet, creeping about like bluebottle flies before the approach of winter. I now travelled by the new South-Eastern Railway. At Some distance from London a traveller on the S.E.R. saw, three or four miles apart, a number of little red brick buildings with spires, which he at first mistook for churches. These were the stations of the Atmospheric Railway. All that I can remember of this railway is that it had a big tube in the centre of the rails, and that on the top of the tube ran a 19 A Sportsman of Limited Income slit which, after the passing of one of the trains, had to be stopped with grease by hand. This, added to the fact that stations (for grease, I suppose) had to be erected in such close proximity, may have been fatal to what was no doubt an ingenious invention. Very soon the tubes were taken up to be sold for old iron, and the pretty little church-like stations taken down. During my first two years at Eton I boarded at Vava- sour's — a dame's — of which I will only say that no one has written a book to prove that it was in any way a notable house, though amongst us was a member of the eight, ''Hookey" Reed, an Irishman; Guy Phillips, even then a great book collector, and later thought worthy of a place in the gallery of Vanity Fair, and a bowler, Fellows, who was in the eleven, and whose nickname of " Deeper " was derived from his having rashly tried to pass before he could swim more than a stroke or two. When, soon after leaving the punt, he was seen to be in difficulties, a friend shouted from the bank, " Halloa, Fellows, where are you going to ? " *' Deeper," gurgled Fellows, as he dis- appeared beneath the waves of " Cuckoo Weir." My tutor was W. A. Carter, to whose house, then at the corner of Keats' Lane, I was removed in my second year. Next door was Evans', and I can't honestly say that I remember anything very remarkable about it. I remember Evans the drawing-master very well, and one of the first boys I made acquaintance with was his son. My tutor had sent for me a day or two after my arrival •to find out what I could do in the way of Latin versifi- cation. After I left Highgate my father had sent me to a coach at Brighton for a fortnight, but as this gentleman used to read his own verses to me all day, and in the evening send me to get mussels off the rocks for supper, 20 Sport at Eton I had not gained much knowledge of the art which was then more thought of than anything else at Eton, except wet-bobbing. In fact, I could better have made a pair of breeches than even an inferior pair of longs and shorts. I was sitting alone and very disconsolate in the pupil- room when young Evans came in, and asked me what was the matter. Finding I could not make head or tail of them, he finished off the copy of verses for me, a questionable kindness, as I was unable to live up to it. I don't remember seeing much of him afterwards. I chiefly remember Evans' from the fact that after I got into the boats I had a poet, or part of one, to save me from labouring too hard at my verses, and so perhaps injuring my rowing. The poet came over the roof from Evans' at night. In Annals of an Eton House, W. H. Freemantle (Dean of Ripon) writes : " My brother's room had a window by which we could gain access to the roof, and in the hot summer nights some of us used to sit upon the tiles and sing choruses." It sounds rather like cats, but no doubt my poet came to me through that window. Of course in my first summer half I lost no time in learning to swim. I suppose there is still a "passing master " before whom the candidates stand stark naked — or perhaps that would no longer be convenable — to jump off at a given signal into ten feet or so of water. A waterman was, of course, in attendance to rescue the failures who had to try again another day. After passing I at once betook myself to boating, my one thought being how to get more and more time for the river. There were sportsmen, no doubt, as keen on dry-bobbing as I was on wet-bobbing, but to them the real glories of Eton were never revealed. 21 A Sportsman of Limited Income During the winter half when the river was interdicted, there was some little difficulty, no doubt, in finding sub- stitutes for rowing. It was when I was either in middle or upper fourth that I was primarily responsible for taking the whole form to Slough Steeplechases on a whole schoolday. About twenty-five minutes after four, a perspiring crowd, without a dozen books among them, trooped into school. This was one of the things a master had occasionally to bear. The accompanying grin was not suggestive of much enjoyment. When I was a trumpery " lower boy " I had to scheme, with far more . trouble than it would have cost me to become an accomplished versifier, how to avoid making verses. When I got into the boats, and it was hoped I might become a light of the Eton rowing world, I was allowed to take my studies fairly easily. But when later I arrived at the dignity of " the eight," the masters with one accord seconded to the best of their ability my efforts to evade their educational offerings, insomuch that I could, so to speak, rest on my classical oars. On my real ones I never rested, but rowed as far, as often, and as hard as I could. Anything that interfered with the wet-bob's allegiance to the river was looked on as a cruel wrong. I remember once arranging to row up to Monkey Island one " long after four " with the fellow — Dorrington, now Sir John, and a man of some note in the political world — with whom I had a boat. To my utter astonishment — I had never heard of such a thing before and thought it a great piece of impertinence — my tutor sent to tell me to come to him to have my verses looked over. I paid no attention to his request, not thinking it right to encourage him in such practices. I don't think I ever saw a man in such a rage in my life as was " my tutor " when 22 Sport at Eton I told him afterwards that an engagement up the river had prevented me from accepting his invitation. No doubt he considered " putting me in the bill " — which was fortunately the worst he could do — a very inadequate punishment. It is hard to conceive how any Etonian towards the end of the forties could escape being some sort of a sportsman. There were no doubt a few who resisted the influence, yet to any boy with a turn that way, the example of the headmaster must have been of the greatest advantage. For instance what could possibly have been more sporting than the cautious way in which Dr. Hawtrey made his appearance at a fight. "Six- penny," where the fistic encounters came off, was close to his house, and just as matters appeared to be going too far, the Doctor, in full fig, would appear, apologetically, round the corner. This was generally sufficient to stop the affray, though once I remember the combatants being whisked off by their friends, and finishing up at the other end of the playing fields. It was seldom very long before a new boy made the acquaintance of the Doctor, who was generally supposed to take more pride in his wielding of the birch than in any other of the varied accomplishments which exalted him into the last of the Admirable Crichtons ; and in elevating a dis- agreeable duty that he was obliged to perform, and which may at first have inspired disgust in his well- stored mind, into a high art, he showed himself as a sportsman no whit inferior to numbers of those who, partly, no doubt, from the effects of his skilful casti- gations, became afterwards celebrated on the racecourse or in the hunting-field. Some of us, I feel sure, had a laudable anxiety to 23 A Sportsman of Limited Income prevent the Doctor from feeling that there was anything derogatory to a man of his varied accompHshments in birching little, or sometimes big, boys. Occasionally one of us would vary what might otherwise have become a wearisome duty. I remember a boy named Northcote being once bidden " to stay " ; but as he rather evidently disliked the idea, Goodlake, afterwards a Crimean hero, and a sportsman above the common, offered to take his place for a shilling. The Doctor, thinking the sight likely to be deterrent — wherein I think he was mistaken — rather liked the boys to be present ; it was before the days of private executions. On this occasion he was astonished at the crowded state of his sanctum, and the giggling and laughing that was going on. When Northcote's name was called, Goodlake came forward. "Very heieenous offence" — that was the way the Doctor pronounced it. " Go down." " Please sir," said Goodlake, apparently in deadly fear, " do give me first fault." It was a rule of the Doctor's never to flog a boy the first time he was complained of for an ordinary offence, but he no doubt had his suspicions, and indeed his usual formula, " I've seen your face before " was only too true. The tittering grew louder and louder, while the Doctor repeated mechanically, " Go down, sir, go down." At last Goodlake " went down." If the Doctor ever "gave it" to a boy it was that day to Goodlake, who kept up a fire of satirical lamentations, and was generally thought to have earned his shilling when the executioner's wearied arm dropped at last to his side. I feel sure the Doctor would have appreciated 24 Sport at Eton Goodlake's sportsmanlike attempt to introduce a little variety into his monotonous role. In my opinion the annual charge for birch-rods — with which the parents of the just and the unjust were equally credited — -might with advantage have been reduced. The authorities, no doubt, prided themselves on the fact that they were equal to any possible emergency. The birch- rods were delivered in enormous loads on farm wagons, and the effect on evil-doers might have been deterrent but for the obvious reflection that unless a certain number of boys, good or bad, were flogged, the skill both of the birch- maker and the wielder thereof would be wasted. Lower-boy Etonians in my day were greatly given to hero-worship, but it would have required more imagination than we had at command to make heroes out of the assistant masters who were, generally speaking, without any sportsman-like attributes. Some of them had a nasty way of standing about up town when we were hurrying up to the river on long after fours, and so, by the foolish rule then in operation — which has since, I am told, undergone some modification — forcing us to shirk into a shop, and lose some of the precious minutes that could never be regained. An exception to these pedagogues was Johnson, who was no doubt at heart a true sportsman. His house was just opposite " my dame's," and once when there was an epidemic of pea-shooting — none of your little penny tin affairs, but glass tubes a yard or so long — there was a battle royal between the tw^o houses. The longer range of our weapons gave us the victory, and Johnson's windows were incontinently smashed. He sent over a note, asking us to desist, as his sister was ill, and he certainly never had to complain of us again. The underlying suggestion that, under other 25 A Sportsman of Limited Income circumstances, he would have taken no notice, struck us as admirable. Johnson was very blind, and on my first whole schoolday, the form being supposed to have prepared a certain number of lines of Horace for repetition, I was surprised to see a boy go up to his desk — literally under his nose, not a very long one — and pin to its front a page torn from a new boy's book. It looked a risky proceeding, but one boy after another came forward, read his portion, and triumphantly retired. While "up to" this worthy man, I never again troubled myself to learn anything by heart. Naturally I was annoyed when my next master saw everything that went on, even without spectacles. So determined were we to find heroes among the big fellows that we elected some who had very poor credentials for the position. There was a fellow, " swell " Jervis, who was quite looked up to from wearing, in addition to the forbidden "cutaway" coat, a huge bunch of "charms," which he was always adding to. He was frequently to be seen in Meyrick's little shop, opposite Barnes' Pool, inspecting the new arrivals, of which, no doubt, he had first choice. I don't think he had any higher claims to our notice. Since leaving Eton, I have never met or heard of " swell " Jervis ; but I have come across a few of my boyhood's heroes, and, to my regret, have found the majority quite commonplace. They must have stopped growing, physically and mentally, directly they left Eton, while some of the despised ones trained on. One who did more credit to our intuition was H. H. Blundell, who, as a boy, seemed able to do anything and everything, and whose future was not to be so disappoint- ing as that of so many others. A survival from the Crimea, where, if I remember rightly, he filled the some- 26 Sport at Eton what anomalous position of M.F.H., he went into Parh'ament, and was for a long time one of the most useful of the Army Members, till he was beaten by, I think, a Labour Member. I saw a notice of his death some years ago. Shortly before, I had been at the House of Commons when an elderly man with a white moustache drove up and entered the House. I asked a policeman who it was. " Colonel Blundell," he replied, and I felt a thrill. Another who fully justified our choice was Chitty, afterwards the well-known judge, who was cricketer, oars- man, sculler, and facile princeps at everything. I was in " the eight " when he brought down a crew from Oxford to row us from " the rushes " to Windsor Bridge. They went away very fast, but, to my astonishment, we came up with them at Lower Hope, where I was almost sorry to hear the great oarsman give utterance to a gasp or a groan. He was, no doubt, out of training. We turned inside them, and they saw us no more. The late Earl Beauchamp was about two years my senior, and I well remember seeing him walk up the chapel just before service and present the chief chorister with a sheet of music paper, on which was inscribed a chant of which he was, presumably, the composer. I don't remember that Lygon, as he was then called, identified himself with either wet- or dry-bobs. But any- thing is sport to the man who enjoys it. Etonians have always had a fine talent for nicknames, and Lygon's was '' Pius ^neas." I next came across him at the first meeting of the new Worcestershire Council, when he was Lord- Lieutenant of Worcestershire. He was a staunch Tory — differing therein from the present holder of the title — very arrogant; and impatient of opposition. He used very 27 A Sportsman of Limited Income harsh language to me one day from his seat on the dais, and for a long time I did not speak to him. One day he came across the street to me in Worcester, put his hand on my shoulder, and said, " Let bygones be bygones." This gave me a new and more favourable opinion of him, and showed him capable of generosity and good feeling. Shortly after, having consulted some of my allies on the County Council, I wrote to him to say that the county was sick of the then chairman, and would be grateful if he would take up the position at the next election. He replied, saying that he appreciated the compliment, " especially as coming from you," but that he would not like to supersede the present chairman, who had done so much for the county. He was in error, as events speedily proved, but he was not to witness the fiasco, as he died very suddenly a few weeks later, when I was glad to have had his kind and friendly letter. There has been so much written about Eton during the last few years — I have myself written a good deal — that I am loth to dwell on reminiscences which there are few left to recall. There was the match at "the Wall" when, in company with O.Meade-King, afterwards president of the O.U.B.C, I was kept back for stoning the "tugs" — between whom and the Oppidans was in those days constant warfare. Whether I really stoned any one I can't say, but Weston's yard had been recently gravelled, as I afterwards knew a Highway Board thoughtfully to provide large heaps of stones ready for use on nomination day. For two or three days we had to stay up, and attend chapel under the concentrated gaze of I forget how many collegers. The punishment may have been clever, but we had only to show ourselves once or twice a day, and managed to amuse ourselves fairly well. 28 Sport at Eton Then there were the delightful Sundays in the summer half, when the weary oarsmen were glad to be at rest, and indeed would willingly have stayed in bed till chapel time, but at eight o'clock there was " private." It was a nuisance to turn out, and find that " my tutor " had been unable to do so. When we thought a " run " was overdue we used to arrange on Saturday to absent ourselves en masse. It generally happened that " my tutor " was wide awake on those occasions, and, no doubt, when he found himself the sole occupant of the pupil-room he felt dire wrath, such as might have moved Achilles ; but he had to grin and bear it, as he couldn't put all his pupils " in the bill " at once. There never was a less satisfactory arrangement than the *' run " by which nobody profited. The most popular preacher in my day was old Bethel, who had " the loudest voice " — as Byron says of another person — " I e'er was deafened with." Though his matter was of the poorest, the way in which he bellowed it out redeemed it from the commonplace. Modern politicians have since utilised the discovery that if they only roar loudly enough no one inquires very strictly as to the meaning of their eloquence. The Eton choir was very good in my time, or we thought so. We took a personal interest in the more notable members. If the anthem chanced to be a favourite, we would run up to St. George's after afternoon chapel for a second edition. My special favourites were, " In Jewry is God known," and the anthem from the twenty-eighth chapter of Job. I could not control my indignation the other day when a musical friend expressed an unfavourable opinion of the former. The big, fat chorister's rendering of the words, " The deep saith it is not in me," was wonderful, and I should like to have heard him in *' Drinking, drinking, drinking." No doubt he and old 29 A Sportsman of Limited Income Bethel, working together, could have brought down the chapel had they been so minded. When we were in funds, a favourite stroll for a summer afternoon was Bothams', at Salt Hill. No bottled cider has since seemed worth drinking. There was a market garden — Frost's, near Salt Hill — where, on payment of a shilling, we might stuff ourselves with strawberries — I doubt if Frost made a fortune at it — then home to tea. How dry and stale the bread used to be on Sundays, while the butter would be melted, and the tallow candles on the top of the " bureau " would lean over into the room, demoralised by the heat. A memorable incident in the career of a wet-bob was his introduction to " Cellars," an institution whose meetings were held at " Tap," a more or less privileged beer-house, situated in the High Street, a little out of bounds. This function was held in the interval between dinner and chapel on half and whole holidays, and was attended by those in the boats, and a few dry-bobs. The attractions were beer of a superior quality to that at " my tutor's," bread and cheese, and celery in season. There was also a celebrated biscuit to be had there, bearing some resemblance to a Shrewsbury cake, the recipe for which was reported to be procurable for a payment of twenty shillings ; but I never knew an Etonian who had gone to the expense of acquiring it. A pound in those days was, to say the least, a pound. On one's first appearance at " Cellars " the ceremony of drinking " the long glass " had to be faced. This was a long tube with a bulb at the end, out of which when you tipped it up the beer came rushing with a blob, blob, blob, on to your shirt front. In its yard of length it held about a pint. Any one acquitting himself well was cheered, which may have been the reason why those who were anticipating the 30 Sport at Eton ordeal sometimes went through a regular course of instruction at the hands of the potman, exalted into a professor pro tein. I think the boys who practised most failed most egregiously, but, indeed, any one who appeared in chapel after drinking "the long glass" without carry- ing the tell-tale marks of his failure on his shirt front, was the exception that proved the rule. " Check nights " — so called from the shirts donned by the crews — included a supper washed down with unlimited champagne, held in a room attached to Surly Hall, an inn on the Windsor side of the river. These not infre- quent dissipations were quite tiny orgies compared to that held on the fourth of June, which, naturally, came only once a year. Yet I have seen a " check night " concluded by the chairs and tables being thrown through the windows into the river, where they were passed, a mile or so on their way to Boveney, in rowing home. The pro- ceedings on the fourth of June have been often described, and, together with " check nights," have long since been done away with. Eheu fugaces . . . I got into the eight in '51, when the only thing to interfere with my happiness — the fly, so to speak, in my ointment — was the new style of rowing, introduced by a faddist who came down to coach us, which he called the "elastic curve." The author of this torture, which I am glad to remember was exceedingly shortlived, posed as a great sportsman, but has always been connected in my mind with Surtees' great hunting authority, Pomponius Ego, because all his talking and writing about style was in reality only his method — which he may have thought very subtle — of advertising himself You were supposed to work the " elastic curve " in a circle, and after the manner of a paddle-wheel. But paddle-wheels are, 31 A Sportsman of Limited Income fortunately for them, inanimate. No way of rowing could possibly have been invented better calculated to induce speedy fatigue, and tire every muscle of your body with- out at all increasing the speed of the boat. With the exception of the Captain of the Boats, who could not have been more enthusiastic had the invention been his own, we all hated it, and, I fear, would have been pleased to locate Pomponius in a place where his " elastic curve " would have had no water to act in. It was the custom for boys who were leaving to write a copy of English verses in the last week of the half, on the joys of schooldays, and their griefs at leaving them. Of course these verses were generally awful balderdash. Though I had been unaccustomed to writing my own verses, I decided, when the time came for my " Vale.," to dispense with the services of my poet. Possibly I was tired of this official's productions, and indeed they were generally such poor stuff that it was a wonder that I had not long ago given him his conge. Very naturally he kept his good things — if he had any, which I doubt — for himself, and his clients had to put up with beginnings, middles, and endings of Virgilian, Ovidian, and Horatian lines, which he fitted together as children used to do with the old wooden puzzles. As Byron remarked of another poet, " his muse made increment of anything," though it was generally considered that he was best on " Spring " ; perhaps for the reason that this subject made its appear- ance about once every half I worked very energetically at my " Vale.," and remem- ber thinking when it was finished that it was not half bad. I was therefore not very pleased when P , the master close to whom I was standing, on commencing its perusal, looked up at me with a quiet twinkle in his eye. Then I 32 I 00 Tf CO »-H f-H D o < ^ — ' '—^ c^ >v X O ^ p— 1 Z c < o ^ y y: -^ < Sport at Eton saw his face grow redder and redder, and it became evident that he was in danger of exploding from suppressed laughter. I peeped over his shoulder to ascertain, if possible, which passages had so mightily- impressed him. As I did so he regained his gravity with a struggle, and carefully folding up my " Vale." put it in his pocket, and called up the next boy. When I regained my seat I saw that he was regarding me with a puzzled air of amusement. But by this time I imagine my face was as red from anger as his from suppressed merriment. I have forgiven almost everybody everything — as one gets older one sees that in the majority of cases no injury was intended, or, better still, that none was effected — but I have never been able to forgive or forget P . 33 CHAPTER IV. AT "THE HOUSE" IN THE FIFTIES. 1LEFT Eton in 185 1, rowing down to London in the " ten-oar," and the coveted h'ght blue shirt, and having a fine time at the Star and Garter and Hampton Court on the way down. After the Long Vacation I became a member of " the House." My four years at Eton had fitted me to take honours as a waterman, and I am not sure that I had then any higher ambition than a con- tinuance of rowing, sculHng, and punting. Having lived on the sea-coast, I had seen no hunting beyond a few days with the local harriers, and as I was soon asked to row in the Ch.Ch. boat I remained for some time constant to the river. In my first year I rowed behind E. C. Burton, a connection of mine, who came up from Westminster, and was in "the House" boat for five years. He died quite recently at the age of seventy-nine. He was a great oars- man, and a proficient in all sports demanding strength, courage, and endurance. He was described by Sir John Astley in his Recollectioiis as the best all-round athlete and sportsman in England. One's ideas change wdth one's surroundings ; somehow there did not seem to be as much fun in rowing at Oxford as at Eton. Certainly there was the day we bumped Exeter, who were fourth on the river, and who rowed on without acknowledging the bump, which they, no doubt, 34 At "the House" in the Fifties imagined they had escaped by the skin of their teeth. Next day we were determined there should be no mistake, so rowed on till our boat was level with their number four, when we turned on them, and sent them up high and dry on the bank. I met an Exeter man a few years ago who was rowing on that occasion, and he still seemed to feel rather sore. It was not long before I found the Isis both winding and unsavoury ; there were far too many dogs in it, and it was hard to say, since there was then no dog tax, where they all came from. Their name was legion — whatever pet names they may once have answered to — and if you were upset you found yourself swimming amongst a whole pack of them. Wet-bobbing at that date was unfashionable at "the House." Almost every one rode, or attempted to do so. Even the " scrivs " hunted on presumably cheap steeds, whose visible anatomy might have been hired from the British Museum instead of from a little dealer in Bear Lane. There were three men " up " with me who after- wards became masters of hounds, all of them Etonians, and two of them from " my tutor's." These were Morris, who had the Shropshire, Boughey (afterwards Sir Thomas), who hunted the Albrighton for many years, and Askew, who had a pack somewhere in the north. Oddly enough not one of the three would have ridden over a hurdle to save his life, but they were nevertheless good sportsmen. My tastes might have led me to join the crowd at Canterbury gate had not hunting been so expensive. After all, shooting was good enough for me, and it was not long before I discovered that it was possible to get some — not perhaps the first quality — at a moderate cost. The relations between farmers and undergraduates were, 35 A Sportsman of Limited Income no doubt, a little strained, and indeed the two classes seldom met save when the farmer, aided by sturdy- labourers with pitchforks, succeeded in nabbing some unfortunate "larker." But some of the farmers were good fellows enough, and did not object to your walking over their land — which was in great part water — in search of snipe. I don't know how things are now, but in those days snipe simply swarmed in the neighbourhood of Oxford. One would scarcely have been surprised to flush one in Peckwater, or even to hear one " scape " out of your bath in the morning. As they had not arrived at the tameness of the modern pheasant, their acquirement was a laudable ambition. I was so un- fortunate as to be absent when two friends of mine succeeded in bagging forty-two couple somewhere in the neighbourhood of I slip. Partly, no doubt, owing to their success they got a little elevated on the way home. The snipe had been tied up by the heads in bunches, and these were to be seen strewn about Peckwater for days after. There were plenty of places near Oxford where any one who knew his way about could get a few snipe without trespassing, or at any rate without giving offence. Par exemple there was always a snipe or two in the season in the little rushy gutter that ran round the old racecourse at Abingdon. On Sir George Bowyer's place (now Radley College) a couple or so might be had without going many yards from the high road. The more reckless or ambitious sportsman could easily in the course of an afternoon trespass on the adjoining estates of three or four of the local nobility and gentry, when the number of one's enemies worked rather for safety than danger. I had a friend at "the House" w^ho would neither row nor ride, though on one occasion he made an exception in 36 At "the House" in the Fifties favour of the latter, and we used frequently to go shooting together. We confined our attentions almost entirely to snipe. There was a tow-headed old fellow who went by the name of Warmingpan, who had a punt in which he used to convey us from one likely spot on the river to another, and occasionally when our presence on the other side was a matter of urgency. I had always fancied him a bit of a poacher, and any doubts I may have had were resolved when I visited Godstow a few years ago. Meet- ing the elderly proprietress of the inn, whom I remembered quite a young girl, I asked her what had become of " old Warmingpan." She looked puzzled for a moment, and then shocked. " ! " she said, giving his correct name. " He got transported for . . . " — well, for doing what he ought not to have done. Poor old Warmingpan ! I can't remember how my friend and I first got introduced — for, at Oxford, of course no acquaintance would have been possible without a formal introduction — to a farmer, Mr. Gaylad, as he preferred to be called, who lived about five miles out of Oxford. L and I had several times shot over his farm, which abounded in game, before we invited him, one day after market, to finish up the evening in college. I don't know what Oxford port may be now, but in those days it was a dark, thick compound, a foe to sobriety, and little indebted, I should imagine, to the grape for any portion of its not too evident merits. Mr. Gaylad, however, found it so much to his liking that it was quite late before he announced his intention of starting to walk home. A suggestion that he should be invested before leaving in a cap and gown was received with acclamation ; and on his appearance in these vest- ments, and half-seas over, in "the High," he was immediately proctorised, when his answer to, " Your 37 A Sportsman of Limited Income name and college, sir?" was more objurgatory than polite. The joke was repeated till we had either had enough of Mr. Gaylad or had used up all the available caps and gowns, of which, since he never thought of returning them, he must have had a large if not very valuable collection. It was strange that the proctors never showed the slightest diminution of ardour. L , though a great ally of mine, was not every one's money. He had a nasty way of coming up behind you, placing his gun close to the back of your head, and shoot- ing your cap off — a trick, the safe performance of which gave evidence of a certain amount of skill. In default of other game — he had the greatest possible objection to returning with an empty bag — he would sometimes take a pot shot at you when he thought you were at a safe distance — which you were not. Nor was it only the companion for the day of his shooting excursions who was endangered by his recklessness. One day, pistol-shooting in his rooms, the mark a candle balanced on the handle of the door leading into the " scout's hole," E , the scout, rushed out of his sanctum, pale as a ghost. " Mr. L , you'll be the death of me ; I know you will. If I hadn't just moved a step on one side, I should be a dead man now." On inspection it was found that a bullet had penetrated the thick oak door, passed out through the window at which the scout was accustomed to stand, and so into Bear Lane. Indeed, L 's scout had an adventurous time of it, partly, no doubt, made up to him in perquisites. Once, when L was returning with empty pockets by way of Port Meadow, he calmly shot a goose, pre- sumably the property of some Oxford "freeman," and stuffed it into his capacious pocket, with the remark, no doubt true, that it was better than nothing. On another 38 At "the House" in the Fifties occasion, having had sin:iilar bad luck, he arranged with a farmer, through whose yard he passed on the way home, for the purchase of a couple of queerly marked ducks that took his fancy. These the farmer threw into the air, and L shot and pocketed them. Arrived at his rooms he sent post haste for D , an undergraduate who fancied himself a bit of an ornithologist. A little knowledge is a dangerous thing, and D at once declared the ducks to be of an exceedingly rare species, seldom seen in England, and evidently but just arrived from the coast, as was proved by the shellfish still in their crops. These were beans, as the ornithologist may have discovered on skinning them. To the best of my recollection he recouped himself by keeping and eating the ducks. On another occasion, coming upon a stray deer near Wychwood Forest, L incontinently shot it, then, arranging with a butcher who chanced to come by, he had it cut up and sent to " the House " ; when he presented the senior censor with a haunch. This dignitary was, of course, horrified, when, as was natural a serious row arose over the affair. Only once did L desert his favourite sport for a meet of the Heythrop in full hunting costume, spurs only excepted, which he could not be persuaded to don. The affair was mooted, as most foolish ones were, at a "wine," one friend (?) being responsible for the mount — a seasoned and temperate hunter — while the costume was contributed piecemeal. L had never been seen outside a horse before, and, indeed, said that he had never mounted one before in his life. Be this as it may, it was, no doubt, his first appearance with hounds, and there was much curiosity as to how he would comport himself. In the event he rather disappointed expectations. 39 A Sportsman of Limited Income He jogged along without quite losing his balance, and when a fox was found, he followed modestly in the rear, to the confusion of those who thought him capable of trying to catch sly Renard. The run was over a stone wall country, and, waiting till the wall had, as always happens, been gradually levelled, he rode solemnly through the gap with the ruck. He arrived home in safety, if rather the worse for wear, and was never known to mount a horse again. One thing leads to another, which may be the purpose some of them were intended to serve. Even the snipe were not always so handy that it was possible to reach our shooting ground on foot. Hiring was expensive, so, by the advice of one of our farming friends, I went to look at a pony standing at old Perrin's stables in St. Aldates. Old Perrin has, of course, long since departed, but his stables still remain and serve their original purpose, which is the case with very few. The last time I was at Oxford I saw that Joe Tollit's stables, in what was then Bear Lane, had become the appanage of the Mitre, while Figg's in St. Aldates, where dwelt the indomitable badger, to whom Sunday — as if he were a parson — was anything but a day of rest, is (or was when I saw it) some sort of a place for hiring and, I suppose, making, steam launches, which seems a droll, or, perhaps, rather a sad finish for a hunting stable. Old Perrin was a curious character, of the sort depicted in Soapy Sponge^ and other similar tales, and as he was reported, quite truthfully I believe, to starve his horses, these might be expected to improve in the hands of a new owner. The pony for which he asked £\^ was a ragged, loose-limbed mare, very blood-like, but in sorry condition. She turned out quite a useful animal. 40 At ^Hhe House" in the Fifties When she had improved in condition I used to ride her up to BuUingdon, and she won many times on the course encircling the cricket ground. On one occasion I was challenged by an undergraduate, Jex-Blake, the owner of an Arab pony, who may have presumed on his jockeyship. I won cleverly by a neck, when he immediately offered to run me again, and was greatly annoyed when I left him forty lengths in the rear. Being at a political meeting a few years ago I met him, high up in the Church, and after a few remarks he turned the conversation to my pony. " And have you," he blandly inquired, "got her yet?" I replied that if she had been alive it would have been a record, as she would have been about fifty years old. The pony carried me so well at BuUingdon that I thought I would try her with hounds, when she proved exceedingly clever, though hardly up to my weight. As I had deserted the river for shooting, I now began to give up the latter for hunting, being careful to get as much sport as I could for my money. I bought a big, strong, fine-looking mare from Joe Tollit ; unfortunately, she did not prove very sound, and at the end of the season she had to be blistered. Even after summering, her forelegs appeared unlikely to stand hard work. Being at T. T. Drake's sale of cubhunters at the Station Hotel, a farmer I knew, a very cautious rider, who hunted regularly with the Old Berkshire, bought for twenty guineas a five-year- old bay thoroughbred mare, that looked sound and like galloping. Meeting him a few days later mounted on his new purchase, he complained that she was no use to him, as she went too fast at her fences. " How would it be," he asked, " if you were to let me have that mare of yours and take this one in exchange? Your mare will never do another season's hunting, and she would suit me to 41 A Sportsman of Limited Income breed from, while this one " — bringing his hand down on the flank of his mount — " might win a steeplechase at Aylesbury." I liked the idea immensely ; the ex-cub- hunter was in capital condition, only wanting a few gallops, and the exchange was speedily arranged, my friend handing over in addition a certain amount of cash. Bracelet, as she was called, went into training at once, taking her gallops on Port Meadow. I had a very useful groom, who had been in a racing stable, and had profited considerably by the experience. The undergrad. races at Aylesbury were rather poor affairs, and the pick of the competing . horses generally hailed from Charley Symonds', or Joe Tollit's stables. Between these two was a certain amount of rivalry, Symonds being, for some occult reason, considered the more fashionable, while Tollit was the more workmanlike. It was the usual thing for a sporting undergraduate who fancied he could ride a bit to hire one or other of the rather moderate " cracks " owned by Symonds or Tollit, and himself appear in the saddle at Aylesbury, sometimes with less disastrous results than might have been expected. Joe Tollit was indeed a notable character ; he was a fine rider, which could not truthfully be asserted of his rival. The way in which he would " lark " over big places when going from one covert to another caused intending purchasers to imagine that his mount was a particularly docile animal, requiring only the proverbial rein of worsted, whereas the contrary was often the case. ]6q was an excellent fellow in his way. I was so unlucky while at Oxford as to break a collar-bone in two successive years, each time within a week or two of Christmas. On the second occasion I was staying up for the vacation, and had three horses at Tollit's ; two of them well-bred screws, 42 At "the House'' in the Fifties the other sounder and less useful. Finding I should not be able to ride for six weeks or so, during which time the horses would be eating their heads off, I sent for Joe and asked him to take them off my hands. He demurred to this, saying he had quite enough horses, and the season was half over. However, he very kindly sent for his brother, a London dealer, who took two out of the three for a fair price, one of the selected being the sound one, a very poor jumper, and indeed the cause of my accident. While I was laid up, my mother came all the way from Lancashire to visit me at my lodgings in St. Aldates, where some officers of the Oxford Militia, one of whom was an old Eton friend, were doing their best to console me. They retired on her arrival, leaving dense clouds of smoke behind them, and my mother returned next day quite reassured as to my health. I met Joe Tollit at Warwick races shortly before his death, when he com- plained bitterly of the decay of sport at Oxford, by which he meant, no doubt, the scarcity of undergraduates who wished to hire hunters. After a week or two on Port Meadow, my man gave it as his opinion that Bracelet was very fast, and that he was right was proved when she easily won her race on the first day at Aylesbury. I had been so fortunate as to secure the services of L , about the best of the under- graduate jockeys — a one-eyed man, no doubt, among the blind. I was, of course, delighted' at my success, and made sure of repeating the victory on the second day, when I should have the same horses to encounter. How- ever, my jockey was dissuaded by the blandishments of Symonds or Tollit, I forget which, from riding for me again, and I was forced to put up my groom at the last moment. He was better on the flat than over a country, 43 A Sportsman of Limited Income and let Bracelet down at the last fence, when she looked like scoring a second time. I blamed my ex-jockey for deserting me, saying I had the fastest animal in Oxford, when he replied he could find plenty to beat me. A match was made, and he went off to scour public and private stables in search of the flier that I felt sure he would have some difficulty in discovering. He eventually pitched on a horse named Eurus, owned by Holland, the sporting proprietor of the Cross Hotel. I was relieved to find he could do no better. Eurus was an undoubtedly useful half-bred, well-known with the Heythrop, and other neighbouring packs, but deficient in speed, and, moreover, credited with a temper. There was a great concourse on Port Meadow when Bracelet won the match of two miles in a canter — she could have won with another stone or two — and my ex-jockey, who was on the back of the loser, learnt the useful lesson that scarcely any amount of weight will bring two horses together, one of which can gallop, while the other cannot. No doubt the livery stable- keepers would have welcomed a weekly event of this description which, however, never recurred in my day. Bracelet's "career" was unfortunately exceedingly brief; I suppose I was in haste to be rich, and, knowing nothing of the twin sciences of racing and placing, thought she could win anywhere and everywhere. I foolishly entered her in a hurdle race at Harpenden, to be run in heats, which were just beginning to get out of fashion. I shall never forget that day at Harpenden. Every one appeared to be a Welsher, a profession in those days as popular as the Army or the Bar, and far more remunerative. Welshers owned, rode, and pulled horses, accosted you on the course, in the ring, in the paddock, and everywhere. In the second heat two jockeys, who 44 At ^^the House" in the Fifties would nowadays have but a short shrift, arranged to shut out Bracelet, and, having to pull up suddenly, she broke a bone in her fetlock joint. Her " racing career " being evidently over, I sold her to the owner of a barn on the common, who put her in slings, and, I believe, kept her for breeding. The numerous fine riders to hounds, residing in the neighbourhood of Oxford, must often have wished that the sporting undergraduate was conspicuous by his absence only. Chief among them was Mr. T. T. Drake, whom I remember seeing jump the park wall at Heythrop on his grey mare. (Heythrop House was then a blackened ruin, having been burned down some years before.) This wall must have been close on six feet high, and the rest of the field dismounted and led their horses through a postern. I think the heaviest man I ever saw attempt riding to hounds was Morrel the brewer and master of the Old Berkshire. He was a living embodiment of the Jorrocks of fiction, but his mounts were of a considerably better class than Xerxes, and Arter-xerxes, and he would gallop at a great pace till stopped by a fence. At one time a regular attendant at the meets of the South Oxfordshire was Elwes, then engaged in dissipating the savings of the famous miser of that name. Mr. Elwes was one of the first to set the example of giving fancy prices for race- horses, and he purchased Oulston — I believe for £6000, an enormous price in those days — wjth the hope, in which he was disappointed, of winning the Derby. In Wild Dayrell's year I went up from Oxford for the Epsom week, and in London came across P , an old Etonian, and a neighbour of mine in Kent, whom I had not seen since he left Eton to join the Army. He now told me that he had already sold his commission, and got 45 A Sportsman of Limited Income through all his money. He was going down to Epsom with the determination to better his affairs, but appeared to have no idea how this operation was to be effected. On Tuesday, as the train was leaving for Epsom, a tout, who, it appeared, was known to P , sprang into the carriage. The fellow had but one piece of information, and this was to back Marchioness for the Oaks. P , ready to catch at any straw, and having some reason for trusting his informant, was so far impressed by the tip that on our arrival on the course he at once commenced to act upon it. On Wednesday Wild Dayrell won the Derby, and as I had backed him at longish odds a month or so before, I invested part of my winnings on Marchioness. On Friday, P , who had done little during the week but back Marchioness, stood to win an enormous amount, or, as seemed far more likely, to lose a sum that he would never be able to pay. Looking over his book on our way down I was perfectly horrified, and, though he brazened it out, I could see that he was begin- ning to repent of his rashness. The favourite for the Oaks, as every one is aware, was Nettle, the property of the afterwards famous, or, rather, infamous Palmer, and she appeared to be winning easily when she fell over the rails, and Marchioness won in a canter. I fancy quite a number of people imagined something was going to happen to Nettle, but whether the astute owner had made arrange- ments for her to lose the race, it is impossible to say. It is an ill wind that blows nobody any good, and P , at any rate, was triumphant. I went down to the Corner on Monday to receive my winnings from Bignel, the proprietor of the Argylle Rooms, a betting man much affected by sporting undergraduates and young Army officers. I found him paying out at his usual post, when he promptly 46 At *^the House" in the Fifties handed me some notes. I retired to a distance of a few yards to count them over when I found the amount was £^ short. Bignel, however, though he knew me perfectly well, and scarcely two minutes had elapsed before I informed him of the deficiency, declined to make it good, and I had not sufficient confidence to venture on making a disturbance with such a well-known man. P 's win- nings, on paper, were enormous, but I am afraid he was even less successful than I was in securing them ; for, being at Liverpool in the autumn, I saw him chasing a very dirty and apparently impecunious Jew, with whom he had been betting at Epsom, and who, he said, owed him /"400. However, he must have secured enough, from the biggest fluke I ever saw on a racecourse, to set him up for a time. Joe Tollit notwithstanding, there may be plenty of sport at Oxford yet, though of a different kind than was the vogue in my day. The new suburbs which have grown up in what I used to consider the " slums," and which are inhabited by the new race of " professors " and their wives — formerly interdicted luxuries — cannot surely be completely given over to dulness. The new professors* daughters, too, must have their ideas of sport, though, as is the case with fish, their victims might call it by another name. True, a goodly number are in spectacles, but these, I feel sure, are donned either in thoughtful appreciation of the genus loci, or from a kindly wish to veil the brightness of their orbs of vision from hosts of would-be admirers. Perhaps the special variety of sport affected by the proctors has suffered less during the last fifty years than others once accounted more reputable. The proctors are still in the enviable position of Masters of Hounds, who are quite certain of a find, with the addition — which should 47 A Sportsman of Limited Income be pleasing to generous minds — of occasionally affording (as in the case of Mr. Gaylad) some measure of enjoyment to the quarry. Even in my day I don't suppose every one at Oxford was miserable who was not riding, rowing, or shooting. As I write, I seem to see old Dean Gaisford, with his round shoulders and not too frequently smiling face, emerge from the Deanery door. We had a feeling for him almost amounting to reverence, which he appeared a most unlikely man to inspire, but which has, oddly enough, increased rather than lessened in the course of years. But boys — we were little more — seem sometimes to diagnose men more correctly than their seniors. We came to the conclusion that under his rough demeanour he concealed a kind heart, as of a bear who should hug you in sport. 1 have always felt that though he may never have ridden to hounds, or won his " blue," the old man was at heart a true sportsman. What could indeed be more sportsmanlike than his determination to uphold the dignity of " the House," and no wonder that this was appreciated, since it acted occasionally as a most useful shield. Some may yet remember the advent into Hall during "Collections" of the junior university proctor, Mr. X of College, eager to detect some delinquent who had escaped him on the previous night. The Dean, who was standing with his back to the big fireplace, and his gown tucked up under his arm, moved slowly across towards the intruder, who had not uncovered. His gruff, " Take off your cap, young man," was very effective. The youthful proctor turned and fled, his ears waxing redder and redder until we lost sight of him. In his epistolatory efforts the Dean was occasionally more curt than even P.M. the Duke of Wellington. 48 fv&. T'\ "*» I .:., i^'"j j: •T w ! i! ""■^'frfe r . ■■ i | i ^M » Ar Ai^ - ^^ FiNMORE, THE DOCTOR's FaCTOTUM. (From Ei07t Sketches, about 1850.) [See page 25. At "the House *' in the Fifties Lord , who had written to the Dean to inquire how his son was getting on, received the following answer : — '* My Lord, — Such letters give much trouble to your humble servant, The Dean of Christ Church." On another occasion he was even briefer ; the sole reference to Christ Church in the voluminous report of the Oxford and Cambridge Commission being : — " From the Dean of Christ Church we have received no communication." Mention of the great Duke of Wellington reminds me that his death occurred while I was at " the House," when there was a general desire to attend his funeral. The Dean good-naturedly signified his willingness to grant leave to any one who could show a letter from a friend inviting him to stay in London. A man named Bodding- ton, a stationer in Oriel Street, was the means of obtaining leave for some who had no relations living in the Metropolis. His invitations, at two and sixpence each, ran something in this way : — " Dear M. (or N.), — I hope you will come up and stay with us for the funeral. Your aunt (or cousin) is a little better. — I am your affectionate, " These invitations were all accepted, which was passing strange, as I do not remember that Boddington ever took the slightest trouble to vary his " round text " hand. The Deanery dinners, to which we were invited in batches, were not very jovial affairs, though occasionally enlivened by the intrusion of a little comedy. The shy undergraduates used to crowd together by the door, and the Dean made little rushes at them from time to time, D 49 A Sportsman of Limited Income like a butting ram. His attempts at conversation, from not being adapted to the tastes of his guests, were frequently nipped in the bud. Occasionally he hit the mark. V , who was wholly given up to shooting, was present at one of these entertainments, and the Dean, probably from knowing his friends, had heard of his skill with the gun. "A good country for snipe, Mr. V ," he began gruffly. " It is that," returned Mr. V , and the conversation ended. The following is a fair instance of the Dean's liking for a sort of clumsy joke. Lord A 's son, when at " the House," was invited to a wedding in the middle of term, and his tutor called at the Deanery to request leave for him. " You think, Mr. B ," the Dean inquired blandly, "that it would do no harm to his studies in the middle of the term ? " " I think not, Mr. Dean," replied the tutor confidently. "Ah well, it might freshen him up. And his father wishes him to go? " *'Yes, Mr. Dean." " And the bride ? I understand you to say that she desires him to be present ? " " Yes, Mr. Dean." " And you wish him to go ? " " Certainly, Mr. Dean." " Very well, Mr. B , then he can't go." As I have said, I am not prepared to deny a man the credit of being a sportsman because he has had no opportunity of hunting or shooting ; I should therefore be inclined to give a testimonial to the little usurer — I mean a usurer on a small scale, or rather, perhaps, a usurer who 50 At ''the House" in the Fifties did not lend much — dealer also in cigars, who resided in what was then Bear Lane. He had a sounding name, suggestive, not inappropriately, of buccaneering days. Some of us were periodically hard up, and our finances must indeed have been in a bad way when V and I visited his emporium with the fond hope of extracting a tenner at some reasonable rate of interest. We had no thought of being too particular. The buccaneer's terms were, however, so extortionate that, after exchanging a glance of wonder, not without an admixture of admiration, we turned away without a word and left him. I did not care much for the assistant masters at Eton, but as sportsmen I don't think they showed to disadvan- tage with the Oxford dons, and the latter may have got worse since my day. A few years ago I was waiting for a train at Oxford station when I saw a middle-aged don — at least I suppose he was a don of some sort — in college cap and 710 gown, smoking a cigarette. Curiosity impelled me to follow him to the refreshment-room, when I per- ceived that his preference was for " Scotch cold." I can't fancy a don of my day smoking a cigarette or drinking whisky at a railway station with or without a gown. What- ever were the deficiencies — and I am inclined to think them many and great — of the dons of my time, there was room, it appears, for deterioration. 51 CHAPTER V. AMERICA.— I. WHEN I left Oxford, the Crimean War was raging. I joined the depot of the East Kent Militia at Canterbury, and shortly after proceeded to Malta, where I remained till the regiment returned to England, on the conclusion of peace. Malta, during the war, was a very interesting place, but there was but little sport to be had there. The Smouches naturally objected to our shooting their pigeons ; there were a few quails, but their pursuit was exceedingly arduous, as it involved climbing the rough stone walls that buttressed the narrow terraces on which the native farmers grew their wheat, and which resembled a staircase of gigantic steps about seven or eight feet high. I had made bold to bring a dog with me, contrary to the regulations. By the aid of my servant, I had kept him out of sight till we were nearing the Bay of Biscay, when the Dutch skipper caught sight of him, and threatened to put him on shore at Gib. Just before arriving there, the dog disappeared again, though he was to the fore during our journey up the Mediterranean. At Malta one of my comrades-to-be came on board, and the dog sneaked into the boat when we went ashore. Next day he accompanied me to say farewell to some friends who were going to the Crimea. The Dutch skipper lost his temper on seeing him. " Zo it vas your dog ! If I had 52 America. — I known it vas your dog " etc. etc. Tippoo was not a good setter, but a great deal better than nothing, and, as a conipanion, most loving and intelligent. I don't remember any other officer at Malta having a dog, or even a fowling-piece, but, no doubt, the majority had plenty of occupation in quite another line. Tippoo had been black and tan on leaving England, but picked up a good deal of tar on board ship, and this had an attrac- tion for the soft stone of which the Florian barracks are built, so that he was always developing white patches. After our return to England the regiment was dis- banded, and I was shortly on my way to America, furnished with about a bushel of letters of introduction from English Churchmen to Canadian bishops and deans, and therefore with every facility — even if I was not to eventuate into an eminent Colonial Divine — for becoming acquainted with the methods of our co-religionists in Canada West. That I had no introductions to the important Roman Catholic section in Lower Canada, which I might have found a still more interesting study, may have been an oversight ; but the importance was mini- mised by the fact that, recognising their futility, I threw my introductions all overboard before reaching Quebec. Twelve or even thirteen days was in those times reckoned a fairly good passage, but I was heartily sick of the ocean before I was half-way across the Atlantic. The only sport available, namely, betting, on the run of the ship, did not appeal to me at all. Some little amusement was to be gained by a study of the passengers, of whom a similar mixture is no doubt still to be encountered. There was, of course, the American bridal pair, whose billing and cooing were less easily evaded than tax- gatherers on shore. There was the familiar bagman, 53 A Sportsman of Limited Income whose mind, any more than his manners, certainly does not change with his sky; the invalids ordered abroad by their doctors — too late, as every one but their loving wives saw plainly enough ; intending settlers, some of them already broken down and disappointed. These gaze forward from their favourite position in the bows, eager to catch a glimpse of the new country which they have decided cannot be more cruel than the old one. One little group I noticed, which held aloof from the others, and appeared to be neither quite hopeless nor very sanguine. The head of the family was a strongly built, rather rough-looking man, clad in the ordinary corduroy of the small English farmer, his cord gaiters coming down to a pair of heavy boots with enormous nails, which left their mark, to the dire wrath of the skipper, whenever he swung round on his heel to continue his anteprandial stroll. His wife was a rather pretty but faded young woman, around whose skirts, in fair weather, would gather a number of youngsters, whom it was hard to believe could be members of the same family, since they were all about the same size, and, apparently, the same age. I made the acquaintance of Mr. Spuds, as I will call him — he crushed my foot one day with his heavy boot as we were together trying to evade the " bridal pair " — and we became quite friendly. Mr. Spuds informed me one morning, when we were partaking of a " bitters " in company, that his folk had resided on the same farm in Warwickshire for generations ; that he greatly regretted leaving, but that he could stand it no longer ; he had indeed had worse luck than ordinary. Wondering what particular bad luck could have befallen this young man, who had apparently not been disappointed in his love affairs, I asked him what he had to complain of. 54 America. — I He looked very sheepish, and for a while made no answer. When I pressed him, however, he told me the story of his misfortunes. " May be," said he, " you'll not be much wiser when I have told you. I'd been getting on all right till a year or two ago, when prices dropped down to nothing, and even then I might have got on as well as my neighbours. But last year I found it was no use trying. It was that Bunt, you see, as did it." "Bunt!" I said; "and who, pray, is Bunt? Ah, the landlord, I suppose." " A deal worse nor any landlord," replied Mr. Spuds. " My landlord, poor fellow, was a good enough sort, and he was right down hurt when he heerd of it. ' Spuds,' says he, ' think it over ; perhaps he'll go again.' But there was no use talking like that. This is how it was, you see. He'd been about the neighbourhood a goodish bit a generation or two ago, but nobody hadn't seen him for years, and all thought as he'd gone for good." — " So should I have fancied," I interjected ; " he must be quite old." — " When one day, just before harvest-time, my little girl there, she'd been out by one of the wheat fields that we were just going to begin cutting, and she came back into the house laughing, and holding out to me what looked like an ear of wheat. ' Ain't this funny, dad ? ' says she, and she rubbed it out, and showed me that instead of grains of wheat (though the ear looked all right outside), it was full of little black things not quite as large as a vetch. ' There's plenty more,' said the little goose, not dreaming what I felt about it. * Ain't it funny ? ' says she. Well, it was a precious sight too funny. The dickens a word says I to her, but I went to the bottom of the stairs. ' Wife,' I calls out, ' we must 55 A Sportsman of Limited Income be packing.' ' Packing ! ' screams she down the stairs — didn't you, Polly? — 'What in goodness name are you talking about ? ' ' He's come,' says I. ' The devil's come ! ' * Who's come ? ' says she. ' Are you mad ? ' ' Bunt,' says I. ' Bunt ! ' says she, and she comed straight downstairs, and I was frightened to see her, she was that white. Sure enough I gave notice, and sold things off, and here I be." Almost everything comes in useful one day, and some years after my return from America, I met a middle- aged man, a great reader, who informed me that he knew everything, and had nothing more to learn. I was greatly astonished, but recovered myself sufficiently to offer to bet him a sovereign that I could mention some- thing of which he was entirely ignorant. On his agreeing, I asked him to tell me what " Bunt " was. This he was quite unable to do, nor did it help him much when I showed him some of the seeds which had been many years in my possession. If it had not been for meeting a man on board ship who said he was an old Etonian, and won my heart by his mention of "broziering my dame" and other Eton passwords, I should very likely have stayed in Canada. But he insisted so strongly on the fact that the States were far preferable, that, after spending a few weeks between Quebec and Canada West, I found myself in Chicago, where the old Etonian had arranged to meet me. Instead, I had a letter from him saying that he could not be there for some time, and I never heard a word of him afterwards. I had not been many hours in Chicago before I started off to find "the old fort." I had heard that a fort still existed, which, in days before there was any idea of a "Lake City," had resisted the attacks of the 56 America. — I Indians. I wandered about, making inquiries of all and sundry, but no one seemed to have heard of it. At last I chanced on an antiquarian — the only one I ever met in America — who gave me the desired information. It was an old log hut, standing isolated in the centre of a square, and in course of being surrounded by blocks of high iron buildings, which made a fairly striking con- trast. On my next visit to Chicago, " the old fort " had disappeared, and I never remember hearing it mentioned again by any of the inhabitants of the rising city, who had doubtless more interesting things to talk about. I had soon had enough of Chicago, and hearing of a place where there was some good duck-shooting to be had, I went off to see what it was like. It was on the Calumet, a river that drains itself calmly into Lake Michigan, much as the Stour at Sandwich "runs" into the sea. Here I lodged with a Dutchman (" farmer " he perhaps called himself), and his English wife, and had some weeks' excellent sport. I made friends with a young German who was staying there shooting ducks, and trapping muskrats, mink, and anything else that came handy. The duck-shooting was splendid, and we had it almost entirely to ourselves. I wish I had kept specimens of all the varieties of the duck tribe, whose name was legion, which we shot and sent in sacks to Chicago. I might have stopped longer on the Calumet, but one day one of us unfortunately shot a loon, which the Dutchman's wife, with an eye to profit, cooked for our dinner. Of course it was impos- sible to get a knife into it, and it would have been amusing, if I had not been hungry, to watch the Dutchman trying to make believe he was carving a spring chicken. It came up again next day, when it 57 ■*.: # ^.. A Sportsman of Limited Income was, if possible, tougher and harder. It would doubtless have appeared again many times had I not captured and buried it, still almost intact. We agreed to shoot no more loons, but I think it was hunger as much as anything that decided Kcenig and myself to pay a visit to Chicago. We walked in — about twenty miles — and about six miles on our way came to a house at which "hunters" put up. As we were passing, a flock of Canadian geese flew over, and a young fellow who was standing by the door put up his gun and brought one down. This was almost the only flying shot I ever saw made by an American ; but things have altered since then. On speaking to him I noticed that his gun was English-made. With the exception of my own I never saw another English-made gun in America. Almost every " Dutchman " possessed some sort of a gun, " made in Germany," and frequently with a shot barrel on top, and a rifle barrel below. The cost of these weapons was very small, and, as I never remember seeing a " Dutchman " shoot anything, they were probably not very deadly. It was some time since either Koenig or I had been on the spree, and we determined to have a good time. The first thing was to get a square meal, of which we were both greatly in need. We decided on paying a visit to " Bishop's." Bishop was an Englishman who kept a small restaurant or tavern which he had christened " The Mitre." He catered specially for Englishmen, and I am afraid he did not make much of a living, since the class to which he appealed, who cherished home feelings — or a liking for old-world cookery — were a rather impecunious lot. The best way to get on in a new country — it might not prove you the best kind of fellow — is to abjure all 58 America. — I thoughts of or regrets for the old one. Incredible as it sounds (for Chicago, even then, was a big place) there was not a bottle of English porter to be got elsewhere. Bishop was a hearty, genial fellow, and for years it was my delight, after a month or two of salt pork, to visit his hostelry. When you left, his farewell, accompanied with a genial smile, was, " Come and see the Bishop at the Mitre, sir." We wound up the evening by attending the theatre, where a young woman in velvet tights was playing Hamlet. " To be or not to be," in a squeaky female voice, started me off laughing — I suppose it had something to do with the Bishop and the Mitre — and Koenig joined in. Soon the audience, or a great portion of it, followed suit. We were looked upon as the originators of the turmoil that ensued, and were requested to leave, which we did, and I never again entered an American theatre. It is strange how history repeats itself During my time at Oxford I went down to Hull to visit my brother R.N., whose ship was being repaired in the dockyard. We went with a number of officers to the theatre, then leased by a man of some comic talent, Sydney by name, whom some may still remember. On this occasion he had deserted comedy for tragedy, and a young actress, who was playing the leading character, sighed so often and so loudly that I was at last moved to echo her respirations, and this was gradually taken up, till every time the young woman sighed, such a sigh went up from the audience as I should imagine has never been heard since. We were requested to cease sighing or vacate our box, and we chose the latter, to the relief, no doubt, of the actress, whom I regret to say we left in tears. I now decided on quitting the Calumet, and, leaving 59 A Sportsman of Limited Income Koenig to look after the ducks and muskrats, I started off on the track of the still incomplete Illinois Central Rail- road, a region practically unsettled, save for a few pioneers recently attracted to the neighbourhood of the depots newly erected eight or ten miles apart. From these little stations I, my dog — I had been fortunate in acquiring a really good pointer from an Englishman who was leaving the country — and my gun made excursions into the vast sameness of the prairie. Where all places were so much alike, to choose was exceedingly difficult. Once you had decided on the locality, you need have no more trouble, since every one was anxious to sell. A few locations, with wood and water handy, had been taken up long ago. The scarcity of taverns mattered little, as every one — so seldom was a dollar or a stranger met with — was anxious to be hotel-keeper for the nonce. I would reach the log hut of an old settler at dusk, and in five minutes be quite a friend of the family. These old settlers were a fine manly lot, troubled only by fever and ague, though of these they had what they no doubt con- sidered a sufficiency. Looking round, as I sat on a log after supper in front of the door, my tired dog at my feet, on the park-like " grove " at the back, and the wide expanse of prairie in front, its brown autumn dress relieved here and there by patches of bright green, where a few acres of winter wheat had been sown perhaps for twenty consecutive years without any manure, I would say to myself, " "Why not stop here ? " But there was no more reason for stopping here than at my host's of the previous evening, or the place which would receive me to- morrow. The young women were tall, slender, graceful, with olive, not dusky, complexions, and with long, straight, dark brown hair, about which they appeared to trouble 60 America. — I themselves very little, and large, liquid, brown eyes, which their unavoidable lack of experience did not prevent from flashing occasional lightning glances. In some cases there may have been an admixture of Indian blood, but where this was impossible or unlikely it appeared these old settlers were approaching the Indian type, as might be noticed, when, as sometimes happened, three genera- tions were seen living together. Though, for that matter, the old grandfathers were frequently more like Indians than Americans, and had fallen into their predecessors' habit of breaking an almost perpetual silence with ex- clamations of, apparently, involuntary surprise. At parting from my host, I always felt that I was exiling myself from a possible future, and my adieux were cordial in proportion to the feasibility of my overnight schemes. The old settler (and his daughter, perhaps, if he had one), would accompany me for a short distance, to wonder at my skill in " shooting flying," and to carry home — a welcome change from the everlasting salt pork — the first brace or two of prairie chickens that fell to my gun. Probably neither gave me another thought when I was lost to sight beyond the rollers of the prairie, though my advent may have been an event in their dull lives. As the months passed, and the Indian summer crept nearer, my wandering life, notwithstanding its sameness, became more and more delightful. The tiny eminences became outlook stations for prairie ,wolves, fierce-looking, but harmless, and the merry little goafer (ground squirrel) had his habitation everywhere. I had soon made a sufficient approach to " land speculator " to know that where the rosin weed, with its blossom like a small sun- flower, flourished most luxuriantly, the richest land was to be found. To its stems, festooned with gossamer, the 6i A Sportsman of Limited Income bob-a-link clung and sent forth its reiterated note. From the prairie pools, circled with belts of brightly coloured flowers, clouds of red-winged " blackbirds " rose on my approach. Ducks, blue-winged teal, and many varieties of plover abounded. Troops of awkward cranes bustled themselves laboriously out of the sedge into the air, where they stayed, far out of shot, till I had gone by. Towards evening large flocks of Canadian geese would fly over, making for the pools, or, if there was any in the neighbour- hood, for the winter wheat. My dog was always pointing rattlesnakes, to his serious discomfort ; but the bite of a rattlesnake, at any rate on the prairie, is seldom fatal to man, and never to animals. Once, about dinner-time, I arrived at an out-of-the-way prairie farm. The good woman of the house cooked my dinner, for which I paid in prairie chickens, and, as I was leaving, told me her son had been bitten by a rattlesnake. His thigh was swollen to the size of his body, and was as hard as a board. The good woman had put some soda — " saleratus " she called it — on the spot. There was nothing else to be done, as there was no doctor within twenty miles; but I heard afterwards that he recovered. When people are all original it is little improvement on the universal dulness of English agricultural districts, and it was refreshing one day to come across an old gentleman who differed from the usual American type. One evening I arrived about dusk at a little prairie settlement at which I decided to pass the night. At the evening meal, as the Dutch landlord, his family, and the servant were sitting down, as a matter of course, with the guest, a little English-looking gentleman with thin grey hair and moustache, who was evidently an habitue, joined the party. I made friends with him, and he afterwards 62 America. — I invited me to accompany him into his private room. I knew sufficient by this time of prairie hotels to be aware that the tenant of a private room must be some one out of the common. While the land boom lasted, travelling speculators slept three or four in a bed — a small one at that. I found the little attic under the shingles lined with bookshelves, on which reposed the best English and a few American authors. The old gentleman had been here, he told me, two years. He was a land agent by profession, and was looking forward to doing some business shortly, as the place was filling up rapidly. Indeed, no less than four wooden houses had already been erected on the six or seven miles of prairie discernible from the hotel. During the next few days I went shooting with my new friend, who ingeniously directed our expeditions to points where he had a lot to survey, or, possibly, to sell. His implements he carried in a light buggy, and when I had completed the slaughter of a covey of prairie chickens — the old gentleman had a gun in the buggy, for what purpose I am unaware, as he did not shoot flying — I would assist him in running out his lines. He was reported to have been a judge in one of the Eastern States, but as nobody had visited him since his arrival, and he had certainly not stated the fact himself, it was not easy to guess how it had been ascertained. Doubtless he could have told a story if he had chosen — as could everyone you met, and indeed they generally did, but the story was not necessarily true. America is the easiest country in the world in which to live down one's past, concerning which, indeed, nobody cares a straw. But even in America it is well to begin the operation betimes. A slight inducement is often all that is needed to make up one's mind. I got to be quite fond of the 63 A Sportsman of Limited Income little gentleman, who reminded me, more than any one I had met since leaving home, of an Englishman. Before many days I had bought a tract of prairie " on time." This, my friend assured me, was dirt cheap, and certain shortly to double its value, and this might have been correct had not the land boom come suddenly to an end. When I had made my purchase, the old land agent — as politicians at home cease to take interest in a man who has voted — had no further use for me. Winter was now coming on again, and the question was how to get over it cheaply. While duck-shooting in the autumn, I had got acquainted with an old settler who lived in the timber near the borders of Lake Michigan, surrounded by swamps inhabited by the fattest blue- winged teal, and the biggest and noisiest mosquitoes I have ever seen. The family consisted of the old man, his maiden sister, and a black girl who had been a slave. The old man never addressed his sister, all communications being made through the medium of the black girl. He was tall, with fine features, and a profusion of long, shining black hair, beginning to be touched with grey, which he pretended not to arrange after a portrait in his possession of a famous American statesman, Henry Clay — a name familiar to Englishmen from its connection with a celebrated brand of cigars. The old man did little work of any sort. In the spring he planted a few potatoes in the sand ; in the summer he collected a certain, or uncertain, quantity of hay from the neighbouring slews. This last duty he preferred to perform by proxy, and he was so popular that he not infrequently had his desire. In the winter he chopped as little firewood as possible. The evenings he passed seated in his shirt-sleeves on a stool in the kitchen — 64 Entrance to School Buildings (showing the "Old Apple Woman"), 1840. [.'iCC page 28. America. — I a leaky lean-to at the back of the log house — his legs crossed, his arms folded on his breast, his eyes fixed, in apparent contemplation, on the stove. Seated there he would quaff a silent glass, every now and again, of neat whisky — not a particularly strong concoction — until at last he would retire to bed muttering maudlin rhapsodies, in which frequently recurred the revered name of Henry Clay. Here I decided to pass the winter, and after buying a wagon and horses in Chicago, I employed my time, assisted by old David, in getting out cedar posts to fence my new homestead in the spring. Coming into the log house one evening I saw a strange, unkempt, stolid-looking young man of about two-and- twenty seated, apparently quite at home, on old David's special stool in the little kitchen. He was explaining his advent to the latter, who was perforce standing. The newcomer, we learnt afterwards, was of English birth, but had been deserted by his father in one of the Southern States a few months before. Since then he had been wandering about the country, living how and where he could. He took his seat at the supper table as a matter of course, a bed was found for him, and after breakfast next morning he was sent into the bush with an axe to chop wood. A number of tramps used to pass the house, and they were not so rude as to do so without calling. The custom was to give them a meal and a shake-down, and in the morning send them into the bush with an axe, presumably to work out their board and lodging: in reality the implement was an old one, with which they were expected to clear off. The newcomer, however, worked hard all day and effected a surprise by reappearing at dusk with the axe. E 65 A Sportsman of Limited Income It was embarrassing when he walked in, seated himself calmly by the stove after performing his ablutions, and awaited the evening meal. No one dreamt of telling him he was de tropy and indeed he would scarcely have understood any but the very broadest hint. Weeks slipped into months, yet he was still there, like a stray dog that had determined never to be an outcast again. The brother and sister compounded for their coolness to one another by acting the good Samaritan to him. There was little for poor William to do; had there been more, he could not have done it. It was soon discovered that he was half-witted, or even less. His sphere of duty soon narrowed into driving the cows to the bush in the morning and bringing them home at night ; but to this slight call on it his intellect was unequal. The country was thickly timbered and inter- sected with swamps, which were impassable except in winter and in the droughts of summer. William, how- ever, developed an unexpected talent. One evening in summer he came in very late, and seated himself in the kitchen with a brighter air than was usual with him when he had, as was now the case, returned without the cows. " If I couldn't find the cows," he exclaimed triumphantly, when scolded, " I've found a bee tree." After this piece of luck he never deigned to think of anything but " bee trees," and the cows came home at their own sweet will when they came at all, like the goats of the " Eclogue." William even became a nuisance, as, when he had found honey, no one was allowed a moment's peace till an expedition had been started to secure it. His method was simplicity itself, and dispensed with the paste and the little box affected by the professional bee-hunter. He went mooning along with his head in the air, and 66 America. — I the bees caught his eyes as they circled about the top of the tree in which their home was located. Thanks to his new talent the poor fellow became quite a self-supporting institution ; at everything else he was a complete failure. This was an example of sport on a limited income that I never saw equalled, and, no doubt, there is some- thing akin to sport in which every one is capable of excelling. Even now poor William would have few competitors in his own line. It will be some time yet before millionaires in search of sport are compelled to take up with bee-hunting. 67 CHAPTER VI. AMERICA.— II. IN spring I got my fence posts down by rail, hired a man — a very bad and expensive one, as usual with the genus out West, whose failings Bret Harte has, for once, not exaggerated — and commenced boring holes with a post augur — a great improvement on digging — eight feet apart. This was not only hard, but very slow, work, and a mile of these holes, besides representing considerable time and labour, was trying to the temper — especially to that of the hired man. When I had bored half a dozen or so I wanted a rest ; the hired man wanted one earlier. Where the ground was soft as it fell towards the south, we would sharpen the ends of the posts, and drive them in with a beetle, which was a refreshing change of labour. When they were all fixed, the lumber arrived from Chicago, and a two-board fence of sixteen-foot boards was arranged so as to prevent as far as possible anything in the shape of a cow creeping under or getting a head between. I began fencing in the middle of May, but it was August before my fence was finished. After- wards I added a third board, which made things safe. My land started along a slight hill to the north, coming down to some low land at the southern end. A quarter of a mile to the south was the station of the Illinois Central Rail Road, beyond which not a house or 6S America.— II shanty was to be seen for many miles. On the west the prairie was fenced in by the railroad. I cannot state the extent of the wild land to the east of my farm, as I never thoroughly explored it, but it was a good deal more than I was ever able to stock. On the south the prairie was as much mine to all intents and purposes as if I had bought and paid for it. On all the rolling prairie, with its splendid crops of grass, I never, save on one occasion, saw twenty head of cattle except my own. After the first year I got together quite a considerable herd, but I regretted to the last day of my stay there that my want of capital and inability to stock the vast acreage made me a loser of thousands of dollars per annum. In the intervals of hole-boring, which I left as much as I dared to the hired man, I had been " breaking up " the new land with my team as fast as I was able ; but still, not very fast. I was a poor hand at ploughing to start with, so got the stationmaster (who knew even less about the matter) to help me to run out a few half-mile furrows. In three or four days, thanks to the perfect American plough and its sharp, rolling coulter, I developed into a fairly good ploughman. As fast as the land was ploughed the hired man followed leisurely, bare-footed with a small specially made iron shovel, with which he cut a snick in the leathery sod. Into this snick he dropped two or three grains of Indian corn, pressed the sod over it with his toe, and passed on. In addition to the sod corn I had also by September the first — early sowing was of the greatest importance — harrowed in twenty acres of wheat. By this time I had discarded the native rubbish, and hired a really good Irishman at monthly wages, who stayed with me till I left America, and of whom I got very fond. When I had 69 A Sportsman of Limited Income put up a fairly good shanty for him and a board stable for the horses, I considered my farming over for the year, and gladly turned my attention to shooting. As there were absolutely no cattle about I had done my fencing in a very leisurely manner ; but when my sod corn was a foor or so high, I heard one morning the sound of the lowing of oxen, and looking out saw through the mist an immense herd of some hundreds surrounding the shanty, and spreading over the farm on the side where the fence was still unfinished. We ran out, and with the aid of the mounted cow-punchers, who seemed greatly amused at our indignation, succeeded in moving the herd on without their having inflicted much damage. This drove was coming up from Texas to Chicago, grazing on its way. During all the time I was on the prairie I was never troubled by any more of them. At that date people were too much taken up with the pursuit of the almighty dollar to have time for the pursuit of fercB natures. An Englishman with a love of sport could get any amount, and, instead of its costing him fabulous sums, as would be the case now, might find it a source of profit. I have already mentioned the American I met who " shot flying," and very few shot at all, except, in some of the States, with revolvers. I was not an extraordinarily good shot, but quite a crowd used to follow me when I went forth from one of the little towns on the Illinois Central Rail Road to slay prairie chickens. " He shoots flying " would be whispered in accents of surprised admiration. I had a contract with a game- dealer in the Chicago market, who took all the birds I could send him. His price was low, except on one occasion, when I went out on the last day of July and appeared in the market next morning — the first of the shooting season 70 America. — II — with my spoil. The dealers thronged round me that day, but the price afterwards was not more than sixpence or sevenpence a brace. In hot weather — and it was always hot in the shooting season — the greatest care had to be taken, or the birds would be fly-blown in an hour or two. I used to start out with a light buggy drawn by an old mare, between whose ears I could shoot without disturbing her in the least. If I was intending to avoid the settlements, I would drive quietly along the dusty tracks across the prairie, leading no one knew whither, which the prairie chickens resorted to for dust-baths. My dog — about the best pointer I ever knew — would lie at my feet, his nose over the wheel. On scenting game he would jump out, and come to a point twenty yards or so from the track. I would drop the reins, and descend leisurely. When the birds, rising one by one, not in coveys, were accounted for, the dog would quickly remount to his seat on the buggy. No amount of per- suasion would induce him to continue the search once he had made up his mind there were no more. When we were not following a track he would range at a distance of half a mile or more from the buggy, the white spot on his left side visible in the short upland grass. When he stood I would turn the mare's head in his direction. In a quarter of an hour or so I would arrive, when he would give me a look to say he thought I might have hurried a bit more. Towards evening the mare's head would be turned towards a station on the Illinois Central Rail Road, stopping by a haystack to carefully "draw" the birds, and insert a wad of hay. This answered fairly well, though of course I had numbers of birds spoilt, which had to be thrown away. From the station the birds would go to Chicago by the evening train. Not till the winter was at 71 A Sportsman of Limited Income hand was it possible to "hang" birds, and even then they never got " gamey " as they do in England. I never tried to make a record bag, being content with anything from fifty to seventy. There was no limit to what might have been done in August by any one murderously inclined. In September the birds were better sport, and they soon got wild enough for anybody, in fact, too wild for most people. When they began to perch in rows on rail fences one hundred yards away, and otherwise misbehave themselves, it would be time for the ducks and teal to arrive again. In autumn, sport of a sort was provided by the many thousands of pigeons which, following the example of the Chicago Bank clerks, and other employees — or, more probably the pigeons had set the example — were flying south across the Continent on the approach of winter. The American wild pigeon is a small bird, about the size of the English stock-dove. It makes, or should make, excellent pies, but in those days the local cooks were too incapable, or perhaps too lazy, to utilise them. The only pies I remember seeing in America were pumpkin pies, and these were the better the less " punkin " entered into their composition. For many days there would be a continuous stream of pigeons, and as their flight was low, and just above the tops of the trees, one would have thought the poorest marksman could hardly have failed to make a bag ; but to shoot them flying would have been quite beyond the skill of an American gunner. The " sportsmen " would wait in the woods in the neighbour- hood of their well-known roosting-places, and shoot them in sackloads at dusk off the boughs. I never participated in a battue of these little birds, for which there was, no doubt, a ready sale in Chicago and other big towns ; but 72 America. — II one day I had been shooting with some friends in the bush near Lake Michigan, when we went into a log house for lunch, stacking our guns in a corner near the door. Above the door was a large hornets' nest, the inhabitants of which kept coming into the room after the flies. Outside the log house was a big tree with a long dead arm stretched out straight about ten yards from the ground. While we and the hornets were lunching, one of us chanced to look out and saw the dead branch crowded with wild pigeons as thick as they could stand. Reaching silently for our guns we stole to the door, and in a moment a fusilade made a clean sweep of the pigeons. I regret that I never had any luck with snipe in America, not that I did not on a few occasions come across some, but there was always something to prevent my making a good bag. Once I was out in a canoe on the Calumet, looking for some young geese that were hiding in the wild rice, when I heard a snipe " scape " close by. Leaving my canoe, I walked along the bank, when I put up a snipe every yard or so. They got up singly, not in wisps, and there must have been thousands. I fired a few shots, but, owing very likely to the size of the shot, without touching a feather. I desisted, but returned next day with any amount of snipe-shot, when to my immense disgust there was literally not a snipe to be found. Snipe, in the Western States at any rate, must have had an enjoyable time, as I never met any one who would have had a thousand to one chance of killing one. I had never done much fishing in England, having been twenty miles or so from a trout stream, but in America I soon learned to fish " for the pot." The Calumet swarmed with fish. I would get into my canoe, 73 A Sportsman of Limited Income my gun laid beside me ready for anything that might rise out of the wild rice, and a long line with a spoon hook at the end of it tied to my leg. Suddenly there would be a tug, tug, at my thigh, and I would haul in a pickerell (American short for pike), very likely ten or twelve pounds' weight. Bass and catfish, with their nasty spikes under their chins, were excellent eating. I seldom used anything but a spoon hook. One winter, when all the small lakes adjoining Lake Michigan were frozen over, some of the dwellers on the lake shore broke through the ice and hauled out the fish in buckets when they crowded to the holes to breathe. I remember seeing on the ice a heap of some tons of whiting which remained frozen for some time before being removed to Chicago, where it was no doubt sold at a good price. At certain seasons the pike in these lakes used to float near the surface of the water, and I several times tried to shoot them from a canoe. My companion was a murderer who had done time in the States prison, but he was a very gentlemanly fellow, and an excellent shot. He must have had a very sharp eye, for he would blaze away at fish that I could not get a sight of In my second year I had a few acres of Indian corn on a patch that had been ploughed and cropped the previous year, and was getting into fine order. This corn grew to an enormous height, certainly ten or twelve feet. Wishing to save some of it for seed, I had it put up in great stooks, like tents. A number of mallards were attracted to it, and every evening just before dark they would come and take their toll. Inside the stook Koenig and I would await their arrival. We shot, and shot, but the survivors did not appear to understand matters. They would perch on the very stooks inside 74 America, — II which we were hiding, and commence to feed again. Their tameness was almost, not quite, shocking to me. I never saw anything hke it before or after. On the approach of winter becoming evident, ex-bank clerks, broken-down bagmen, and tramps of all sorts and descriptions, in tall silk hats some of them — I had once had a man who mowed for me for several days in a tall hat — would start from Chicago along the line of the Illinois Central Rail Road, to walk south before the setting in of the cold weather. We could see the tiny black dots many miles away on the perfectly straight line. Occasionally one of these travellers had been known to us in a bank or store, but he generally preferred to remain incog. If we succeeded in over- coming his mauvaise honte, we would sometimes ask him to remain for a night's rest, but the majority had a feverish desire to press on. Deer were seldom seen on the prairie. In the timber they were plentiful, but hard to get at. I remember once being in a small place on the Illinois River, when a big herd of deer stood for a little while gazing down the street of the new village, of whose institution they had probably been quite ignorant. When they had impressed it on their minds, they turned away and bounded off unmolested to the wilds again. It was on a piercingly cold day on the prairie this winter that Arthur, my man, came running up to the station, where I was trying to keep myself warm, to say that there were a number of deer feeding at some hayricks that we had put up on the prairie about two miles north of my shanty. I snatched up a rifle, ran down to the shanty, threw a saddle on one of the horses, and made for the hayricks as fast as I could. The 75 A Sportsman of Limited Income deer would not leave the ricks, but dodged about from one side to the other. I dismounted, and stole after them on foot. It was not long before I had a chance, and putting up my rifle I essayed to pull the trigger. To my disgust I was unable to move my finger, and after standing for some time with my rifle pointed at the deer, which seemed to understand the state of affairs, I rode back again, leaving them in possession. The greater part of this winter I spent on the prairie, with occasional visits to Indiana, where I had bought some timber land that I thought might be useful. The sudden way in which winter set in was a caution. I had driven into Chicago, about forty miles, in quite warm summer- like weather, and on my way back made a detour to do some necessary business at the county town. When I arrived there in the evening it was beginning to snow ; next morning when I started to drive home, about twenty-five miles across the prairie, it was bitterly cold, and, having no gloves, I stopped and bought a pair of woollen mitts, which were all the proprietor had in stock — he had evidently not yet laid in his winter supply. When I reached the bare prairie the wind, which was now right in my face, got colder and colder, and I had every now and then to get out of the "sulky" and run behind to keep my nose and ears from freezing. I was glad towards dusk to see the line of my fence on a little hill a couple of miles in front of me. The bay mare I was driving was perfectly white, like an iced cake, and her nostrils choked up with icicles. My man was looking out for me; he pushed me into the shanty, while he went off to see to the mare. I found the stove red-hot, and some hot milk ready for me. This was the worst cold I ever experienced. It was quite a long time J6 America. — II before I got over it, and I was afterwards able to under- stand an expression Arthur was always using on a specially cold day : '' The cold of the grave is in me bones." Poor Arthur had not a very lively time in the winter when I was away. A good part of the first winter he spent standing on a nail keg and sawing off the tops of the cedar posts that protruded needlessly above the boards. When I came home with the horses he would lose no time in going round to collect these precious odds and ends of firewood. I shall never forget his joy, as of a dog, at my return. It was cold in the shanty that winter, and no mistake. Hot tea accidentally spilt formed in ice on the table, which was drawn close to the red-hot stove. The nails protruding through the plank roof had a half-inch coating of rime, the window was darkened with perpetual frost. But the rapid, unexpected changes were more trying than the severest cold. The station-agent was a wild young Scotchman of good family, and about my own age, who, when a lad, had enlisted in the Life Guards, been bought out by his friends, put into a good business in Canada, drunk himself out of it, and afterwards tried several things with the same result. Finally he had landed at our station, where he remained on a salary barely sufficient to keep him in food and garments of sufficient solidity to keep out the cold. " By G — ," -he used to say when drunk, " I took the shilling." I used to sleep at the station, and he returned the compliment by taking meals, not very luxurious ones, at my shanty. Every day in summer a large block of ice was left at the station, which I took down to the shanty. Sometimes we were so clever or so fortunate as to induce Saturday's 77 A Sportsman of Limited Income supply to last into Sunday. In summer and autumn the station swarmed with mosquitoes, and, as we were without the luxury of mosquito-nets, it was almost impossible to get any sleep. In the evening a wheat train would fre- quently lie up at our station for the night, when we would sleep in one of the trucks, where the aperture at each end kept up a draught which the little pests found deterrent. S would leave a note for me, if I was late coming back from shooting : " Am sleeping in car, number so and so." I would then climb through the hole at the end of the car, in my nightshirt, and lie down on the bags of wheat, on one of which S was already snoring. It was always deliciously cool, the only nuisance being the strong smell of garlic. In ploughing for wheat on the prairie we would turn up the wild garlic, like continuous strings of pearls, and you could smell a wheat train miles away. One occasionally hears some one mention having met with mosquitoes in England, but these, to one who has known the American variety, are quite a negligible quantity. I remember once on the Calumet turning out at sunrise to pick huckleberries, an occupation likely to be rendered intensely unpleasant a little later by the " deer fly." (This is a horrid little fawn-coloured beast, that settles generally on the back of your neck between your hair and your collar. I don't think he was poisonous, but he made you jump confoundedly.) I got out of the window to avoid waking any one, and going down to the river stepped into a canoe and paddled across. Ap- parently I disturbed a family of four or five mosquitoes who had been roosting on the bank, and who followed me, and almost pushed me out of the canoe. They were certainly the biggest, fattest, and hungriest I ever met 78 America. — II with. When I reached the far side of the river I had only succeeded in killing one of them, and his friends showed such an eager desire to avenge him that I turned tail, got into the boat again, and back to bed, my chief difficulty being to keep my pursuers out, and I was both surprised and relieved when they departed without smash- ing the window. When I was in the timber I used, unless otherwise engaged, to milk six or eight cows night and morning. When the cows came up from the slews in the evening they would be literally covered from nose to tail with mosquitoes wedged together as close as they could pack. When you put your head against the cow's side, preparatory to milking, you would squash a few thousands, but, like a famine in India, it appeared to have little effect on the reduction of the population. I never suffered much from them except on one occasion, when, having missed the train to Chicago, I walked in about twenty miles with a friend. We were very tired, and went to bed after supper without noticing the dilapidated state of our mosquito-curtains. In the morning my friend's face was swollen almost beyond recognition, and I — well, I was not quite as bad. On the walls were quite a number of mosquitoes who had evidently dined, not wisely but too well, as appeared shortly afterwards, when their corpses varied the somewhat monotonous pattern of the wall- paper. But the insect I hated most was the "gally- nipper " — I am ignorant of his scientific name. This insect had at first a somewhat deceptive resemblance to a daddy-long-legs. He had, however, a tube which made all the difference, as, soon after its insertion in his quarry, his thin body developed into a red bottle of quite respectable size. I had a mare I always rode when hunting stray cattle on the prairie, and the devotion of 79 A Sportsman of Limited Income the gallynipper to this animal was quite touching. Once when I was on her back from sunrise to sunset they almost bled the poor beast to death. The blood ran from her head and neck on to the reins. Of course I did my best to keep them off, and so diverted their attention to myself. I had a flannel shirt on, tight at the shoulders, and it was there that they drove in their hateful appliances. Fortunately my friend S had but infrequent op- portunities of over-indulgence in whisky — the only fault he had — and we became great friends. On the prairie one had to be even more merciful than my old friend Dr. Hawtrey in respect of " first faults." Occasionally a land speculator, who wanted to see how his land — some of which my cattle may have been utilising — was getting on, would call at the station. He generally brought something superior in the way of liquor, and S would cook his dinner — of prairie chicken, most likely — on con- dition that he laid the table, washed up, and made himself generally useful. An old judge, an immensely fat man, would once and again come down from Chicago, and we would shoot him a prairie chicken, which he would afterwards pluck, grill, dance round, and finally devour. He would have looked well in the local Punch, had there been such a publication, very drunk in his shirt-sleeves, shedding maudlin tears over the remnants of his meal, and the next day sentencing inebriates in Chicago. These treats, however, did not often come our way. Sometimes we entertained guests of another description, who helped us to while away the long evenings, which else had been rather dreary. There was an uncouth Yankee fiddler, who would enter our sacred precincts, welcome but uninvited, and commence to search for a whisky bottle, 80 TWO ETON HEADMASTERS. Dr. Hawtrey. Dr. Goodford. \Sce page 32. America. — II fiddle in hand. There was Arthur, my Irishman, whose soHtude we often deigned to cheer, and who rewarded our condescension with amusing if somewhat coarse reminis- cences of " the ould counthry," which he interlarded with an eternal, " Wid faver to yees " ; a very quiet, gentlemanly young farmer from Pennsylvania, who afterwards murdered an Irish labourer in the heat of passion, and underwent a year's confinement in a penitentiary. But our most frequent and most welcome guest was Koenig, who would come to us from his headquarters on the Calumet River. He would bring with him his gun and his guitar, and use them for our welfare and delectation. He would come in from shooting, throw down his gun, take up his guitar, and play and sing to us while we plucked the birds and cooked them for supper. At a short distance from the north end of my farm was a big " creek " the only water for miles round, which, in addition to supplying the cattle with water, was in autumn resorted to by flocks of Canadian geese, mallards, and all sorts of plover. To the first of these my patch of wheat, which neighboured the creek, was an additional attraction. Koenig was always bringing home something from the creek after dusk. One night he came home quite late, wet to the waist. " By G — ," he said, " S , I shot seven geese." We laughed, seeing he was empty-handed, when he told us he had seen seven geese fall to his double- barrel out of a big flock just about to settle on the creek, but had been unable to find them. He got very angry when we pretended not to believe him, and shortly went out again, rousing us in the middle of the night by returning with two geese. When he departed again we shut the doors and went to sleep. Early in the morning I heard Koenig trying to get in, but was too sleepy to F 8l A Sportsman of Limited Income bother. Suddenly, first one goose then another came through the window into the sleeping-room, with a crash. I got up to remonstrate, but Koenig was off to the creek again. In the morning he appeared with two more geese. The seventh had probably crawled out of the creek, and escaped on to the prairie. It was all we could do to prevent Koenig's immediate departure, but at last we managed to smooth him down. He was much too useful to part with. In the spring I had a reminder that prairie farming is not all beer and skittles. My winter wheat, which I had at one time thought was killed off by the frost, began to look quite flourishing again, and I promised myself a crop after all. Imagine my disgust when I found that nine-tenths of it was " chess," or " cheat," a weed which some consider degenerated wheat, and which resembles wheat till it should come into ear, when it bursts into something between wild oats and dodder grass. I thought of my friend Mr. Spuds, and wondered whether he would consider this preferable to the " Bunt " which had driven him from his Warwickshire farm. The only thing to do was to cut it, cart it away, and burn it, to prevent seeding. I had not troubled the doctors since leaving England — nor indeed much before — but this autumn I made my first acquaintance with the profession in America. I had been having a long day after prairie chickens, it had been frightfully hot, and towards evening, when I was nearing a little settlement about seven miles from my farm, I suddenly felt very sick and ill. I managed to reach a little tavern, the keeper of which put me to bed, and sent for the doctor. It seems he was a new importation, for which reason I had never heard of his existence. I 82 America. — II suppose I had fainted, but when I recovered, the sun was shining into the room — there were no window blinds — the walls were covered with thousands of bugs, and a big, heavily bearded man was standing by my bedside, holding in his two hands an enormous bowl. This contained senna tea, which I was ordered to drink, and the doctor and I afterwards became great friends, though he never again prescribed for me. The doctor had a family of pretty little round Dutch children. He had also a younger brother, a " professor," whose speciality it was to convert the commonest corn whisky into port wine. I used to go in and watch him making his brew in an enormous boiler. Once I went his rounds with him, when he visited the principal Chicago liquor merchants. They would bring out some whisky in a glass, and he would manipulate it into the simulation of port wine. I think the charge for which " I fix him " was a dollar a gallon, which sounds fairly cheap. To-day in England the obliging German chemist seems to be doing the same thing, only that now they are making whisky out of their abominations instead of port ; and there is no doubt that the stuff advertised as first class and sold everywhere is little better than poison. When I returned to America some years later I found the " professor " married to one of the little round children of his brother the doctor ; I confess I hardly knew what to say to him. By next year I had nolens volejis- got quite a lot of cattle together. Trade was very bad, and money ex- ceedingly scarce everywhere. Small farmers used to come from ten or twenty miles across the prairie with a cow or two they wished to sell. I would say, truly enough, that I had no money, when they would reply that I should have some by and by and walk away, 83 A Sportsman of Limited Income leaving the cows behind them. I don't remember an American ever doubting my word, but I am sure a great number would have been greatly surprised, and perhaps a trifle hurt if I had taken theirs. Hay was plentiful ; I contracted with a Dutchman to put me up a hundred tons for one hundred dollars. This I built up outside the fence of the cattle yard for the cattle to help them- selves to. But the prairie winter was too cold for the cattle to do more than just live, and even this was more than all could accomplish. The survivors would be turned out towards the end of May so many bags of bones, and in a month or six weeks would be quite fresh. I decided to rent a big stretch of rather swampy land on the border of Lake Michigan from Senator Douglas, the "little giant" whose defeat for the Presidency by Lincoln was shortly to cause the Civil War. Meeting his secretary to arrange terms, he told me very condescendingly that Senator Douglas was a man without any pride, and would not mind speaking to me at all. I am afraid I did not appreciate the compliment, and thought the secretary a bit of an ass. After taking this land, I never put up any more hay on the prairie, but on the approach of winter drove my cattle down to the lake shore, where there was plenty of shelter. Quite a number stayed there and multiplied. I soon found that an arable farm on the prairie was no use except as a homestead. In fact, I never knew any one without private means who was able to make any payments on the bills he had given when he bought his land. The Illinois Central Rail Road Company had received from the Government a concession of alternate sections of land for, I think, three miles on each side of the track. None of the men in my neighbourhood who bought on time from the Company 84 America. — II ever paid anything at all, and after staying some years, and letting their land get into a much worse state than when it was bare prairie, they were turned out. There was always something happening to disappoint expecta- tions. One year we had a frost every month, so that the Indian corn came to nothing. Then blight would attack the spring wheat — I have before spoken of " chess." I have gone hopefully into a square mile of spring wheat, expecting to find it swarming with prairie chickens, and found it blighted and literally not a grain of wheat in the six hundred and forty acres ; of course prairie chickens were conspicuous by their absence. People bought wild land to improve it and sell at a profit. My land was improving in value if, as a farm, it was paying nothing. Yet a man could, with ordinary luck, raise enough for his family to live on, by working hard, and employing no labour, and perhaps there is hardly any corner of the earth where, by labouring equally hard, a living might not be secured. The Illinois Central Rail Road was then a rough and rude affair. Coming out of Chicago one evening, in company with my Scotch stationmaster, on the last train — there were only two trains per diem each way — after a tiring day in town, I dropped asleep, and only woke to see that we were passing a little hill on the prairie, topped by some rude buildings, which I knew to be about two miles south of my pla^:e. Not feeling at all inclined to walk back along the line nine miles from the next station, I jumped up and commenced ringing the bell communicating with the engine-driver, to the horror of my stationmaster, who thought he would get into trouble. The train pulled up short, and as the frightened passengers quickly unloaded on to the em- 85 A Sportsman of Limited Income bankment, the conductor came along wanting to know who had rung the bell. I knew him well, a big, one-eyed man, who had been a navvy in England, and a very rough customer. 1 had often seen him chuck stowaways off the train, while in motion, in most truculent style. I told him I had rung the bell, as he passed my station without stopping, and I should be obliged by his backing the train, as I did not wish to walk. He looked me over, and I think, but for my being an Englishman, he would have tried to chuck me ; instead, he called out, " All aboard " — possibly he was not without a sense of humour — and ordered the driver to back the two miles. I have more than once seen a train stopped while a passenger de- scended and walked some distance after his hat, which had blown away on to the prairie. But I do not suppose that would be likely to happen now. 2>6 CHAPTER VII. AMERICA.— III. IT must have been in the late autumn of my third year in America that, being down at old David's place near Lake Michigan, I noticed that several of the " Hollanders," who were trying to scrape a living out of the sand-ridges, had collected from goodness knows where quite a quantity of cordwood, which they had stacked on the borders of what they were pleased to call their farms. This I wondered at, as it seemed lost labour, and I could not imagine what they intended to do with it. Mention- ing the matter to my friendly station-agent on the prairie, he suggested that I should apply for a wood contract from the Illinois Central Rail Road. There was no available coal, and as the greater portion of the line ran through the timberless prairie, the Company had to get the greater part of its fuel from the Michigan beech forests. The wood-contractor in chief was a man I knew very well, one of two brothers who farmed a couple of square miles at no great distance frop my depot. I took the station-agent's advice, and made arrangements with the " Hollanders " to take their wood at a certain price, provided I could get a sub-contract. Then I drove over to interview my neighbour the contractor. He was about six feet six inches in height, and very stout, the biggest man, I think, I ever saw in the States, quite young, but 87 A Sportsman of Limited Income already getting grey. He gave me a sub-contract in the most good-natured way, and at a price that would leave me a good profit. I think an American is ahvays glad to do a kindly action, if it will not interfere with his own plans ; and this is more than can be said of all others. I at once went down to stir up the "Hollanders" and set them to haul their wood to the edge of the Calumet River, so that it could be carried over on the arrival of winter. When the frost set in I was at work from day- light to dusk with two teams, loading the wood on one side of the river, and dumping it on the other bank, to be removed from thence to the side of the Michigan Central Rail Road track when the ice broke up. For this labour I was well paid by the " Hollanders," who were afraid of losing their market. Summer came, and we had a fire or two, which by great good luck did little damage ; but one day on my return from the prairie I was glad to see a wood train loading up. Up to this time the " Hollanders " had not asked for any money, but now they began to be clamorous. Before I could pay them, I had to see the contractor, and this, though I had fancied from his size it would have been easily managed, was exceedingly hard. Indeed, he seemed to have the receipt of fern seed. One day I succeeded in finding him in Chicago, and determined on having a settlement. When I mentioned my business he treated me de Jiaut en has. He did all he could to get rid of me, and declared he had no money, but I vowed I would not leave him till he had found some. He would stop on the side walk, pretending to talk business to people he met, when I had to wait with what patience I could muster till he had finished Generally his friend got bored and excused himself When dinner-time came he asked me to dine with him America. — III as he could not shake me off — I suppose he was hungry — at one of the best hotels, and after a good meal I felt emboldened to press him a little harder. At last I accompanied him into the Marine Bank — I was afraid to leave him for a moment — where he had an interview with the manager that seemed unproductive. Bank hours would soon be over, and he may have seen that I was getting desperate, for, when I suggested that he should go to the pay-car and get an advance, he very sulkily agreed. Luckily the paymaster's, Komstock's, car (which he used as an office when in Chicago) was at the d^pot, and he at once handed over a bundle of bills to the contractor, of which the latter turned the larger portion over to me. But he was very indignant, and behaved as an im- pecunious " swell " in the old country might do on being asked to pay a five or ten years' old tailor's bill. I went back joyfully and paid my " Hollanders," having some- thing over for myself, which was lucky, as the contractor became bankrupt immediately afterwards. I never got the balance, as the Company, though they burnt the wood, declined to settle my account, and no doubt they were within their rights. The big man's prosperity was by no means checked by this little incident. When the war broke out his place was covered with nigger teamsters and horses, and although he had always professed to be a hot Southerner, he went in largely for Government con- tracts. I have no doubt he would have made a fortune, for he was what in America is called " smart," but on my return, some years after the war, I heard he had been dead some time. I saw at intervals a good deal of Chicago in those days ; I have already mentioned " the old fort " ; much too old-fashioned a building to have a chance of surviving. 89 A Sportsman of Limited Income Chicago was then a rising city in more senses than one, as it was undergoing the process of being raised above the level of the lake, below which the pioneers had com- menced operations. It was a curious sight in those days to see wagons and powerful teams of horses " stalled " in the mud of the principal streets. I was a witness of the raising of the Briggs House, then one of the largest hotels in the city, where the first storey of the hotel had, from the raising of the roadway, developed into a basement. I several times stayed at this house, where a notice might be read warning you not to put your boots outside your door at night ; if you neglected it, they would be collected by a speculative gentleman with a sack. It was a common thing on a main street to meet a wooden house being moved out of town by a windlass, as they move a bathing machine at home. When the locality became too fashionable the owner would sell his lot and move with his wooden house into the country. In those days he had not far to go. Very likely the family might be seen breakfasting in the kitchen, and the owner's coat and hat hanging in the lean-to as they went by. I was in Chicago when the late King Edward VII., then Prince of Wales, visited the place and was the guest of " Long John " Wentworth, the Mayor. The Prince was very well received, and I remember his being shown to the people from the balcony of one of the chief hotels, Mr. Wentworth, who was about as tall as my wood-con- tractor, towering over the Prince, his hand on his shoulder. In connection with this visit the account of the death of Sir William Russell reminded me that that prince of war correspondents accompanied the Royal party to Canada and the States. On Sunday, when the Prince presumably 90 America. — III remained in Chicago, Mr. Russell went shooting on the prairie. It was no doubt the only day he could count on for getting a little sport. I don't remember at that time any very strong feeling as to keeping Sunday strictly as a day of rest, and, in fact, it was frequently chosen by my American friends who wished me to provide them with a day's shooting. Nevertheless, Mr. Russell was appre- hended, brought before some court, and fined ; I believe the amount was ten dollars. This exceptional treatment — for, though I suppose there was some ancient law, unre- pealed since the days of the " Mayflower," anent Sabbath- breaking, I never during my stay in America heard of another instance of its enforcement — may have had its origin in some remarks of Mr. Russell's that had appeared in the London press. Certainly no slight was intended to the Prince of Wales. The affair caused some sensation, and the weight of American opinion was strong against the course taken by the Sabbatarians. An enthusiastic reception was accorded to the Prince by the Canadians ; it was indeed reported that at Mon- treal and other large towns the water in which the princely ablutions had been performed was carefully bottled off (as an American Company is now doing with the waters of the Jordan) and sold to the more ardent of his admirers. Mr. Wentworth, mentioned above, was a " character " of a sort that may be now becoming rare even in America. In following what he considered the best interests of the city he was a law unto himself, and the citizens, instead of taking offence, honoured him for his disregard of restrictions, which would have tied the hands of ordinary men. I remember a striking instance of his boldness. Across the river, on the west side, in a place called 91 A Sportsman of Limited Income " the Sands," was a row of wooden houses, inhabited by an undesirable class of tenants, who preyed on the sailors who came to Chicago on the grain ships, several of whom were reported to have been murdered, and their bodies cast into the river. The Mayor proclaimed that if these houses were not vacated by a certain day, they would be burnt down. The tenants took not the slightest notice of the edict, considering, no doubt, that the Mayor would not dare to carry out his threat. They were mistaken, however, for on " the appointed day " Mr. Wentworth, accompanied by his myrmidons — as an Oxford proctor by his bulldogs — went calmly forth, and himself applied the torch to the obnoxious buildings. The sight of the poor creatures hurrying forth in their smocks must have been truly edifying. Of the frail wooden buildings nothing remained in a few minutes but a line of white ashes, which I myself saw a day or two afterwards on " the Sands." On another occasion Mr. Wentworth used equally summary means to get rid of the nuisance occasioned by the protrusion on the side walks by merchants and others of signs and emblems. A whisky merchant would thrust out a barrel-shaped board on one side of his door, whilst a tobacco store would exhibit the usual Highlander with his snuff-laden fingers thrust into the faces of the passer-by. Storekeepers were warned that on a certain date such of these signs as were not removed would be carted away and burnt. As in the previous case, no one took any notice, and they were probably surprised when the Mayor appeared, up to date, with his bulldogs, and a wagon into which the offending obstructions were thrown. The " signs " were carted off to the court-house, which then stood in a large enclosure bounded by a high iron rail- 92 America. — III Ing. Over this they were thrown in a heap, but instead of being consigned to the flames, they remained there for a long time, no doubt as a salutary warning. Later I did myself the honour of placing a humble contribution in close proximity to the Mayor's collection of signs. It was suggested to me one Christmas that a profitable trade in Christmas trees might be done with the Germans (Dutchmen), who then formed half the population of Chicago. Taking a wagon and horses I drove about thirty miles into Indiana, where on the shore of Lake Michigan was a vast extent of swamps — locally " slews " — alternating with sandy ridges, whereon grew a profusion of small fir trees. Selecting the best shaped of these, I pulled them out of the sand, and with a couple of hundred of them on my wagon started for the city. Early on the twenty-third of December I was making the round with my trees. The friend who had suggested the new business kindly accompanied me, and pointed out the most likely localities for customers. Of these at first I had no lack, and indeed thought my fortune was made. A few of the finest trees went at a dollar apiece, but they soon dropped to fifty cents, and then to a quarter, by which time the portion of the Dutch population desirous of keeping up the old-country custom in a foreign land showed signs of exhaustion. It was getting fearfully cold ; I was almost frozen, while my horses, poor creatures, were white with hoar frost. Directing their steps towards the court-house, which struck me as a good place for " dumping," I threw the balance of my trees over the fence, where long after I saw them, looking withered and disreputable, but in honourable proximity to the Mayor's " signs." I remember being in Chicago one summer when a big 93 A Sportsman of Limited Income propeller came into harbour, her decks piled high with square boxes covered with pink netting, which made quite a fine show. These boxes contained peaches, and in about half an hour every one in the city who had fifty cents to spare was the owner of a bushel or so of splendid fruit. I took some down to the prairie and distributed them among the locals, some of whom had certainly never seen a peach before, and were unlikely ever to see another. Chicago was full — I suppose it still is — of saloons, but the majority of these catered rather for the " Dutchman " than for the American population. The former drank nothing but lager beer, but of this harmless beverage they consumed oceans. The education of the American- born in foreign whiskies had scarcely commenced — I don't know how far it has got now. When, as occasion- ally happened, I spent a Sunday in the city with a friend, we always stopped on our way back from church to have a glass of neat Scotch whisky at the sole place at which it was then retailed. The old Scotchman who kept the saloon had a very long face, which he could still further elongate on occasion. It was our custom to invite him to join us in our potations, when he would raise his glass to his mouth, give a little " click," and lo ! the whisky was gone. During the brief process his chin would drop into his cravat, but it soon regained its normal position, if indeed the normal position was not the elongated one. I feel certain we went to his saloon more for the pleasure of seeing him swallow than of taking anything ourselves, and though I was very poor in those days, and the Scotch whisky very dear, I considered it cheap with that sight thrown in. I once drove nearly twenty miles into Chicago with a 94 America. — III load of hay. I don't remember the reason, possibly I wanted a day out. I waited long in the hay market, but not a soul came near me. I was going off to the stable where I occasionally put up, to see if the proprietor could do with it, when I saw an out-at-elbows Irishman crossing the street, whom I hailed. He was, to the best of my belief, the only brewer in Chicago, and sometimes he brewed, and sometimes he didn't. There was a big brewery in existence, but it was standing idle, and tenanted only by rats and the watchman, a weird place to visit at night. At that time all the beer drunk in the numerous saloons by the " Dutchmen " came from Milwaukee. It seemed that the only brewer kept a horse, an extravagance of which I would never have dreamt of accusing him. He bought, or rather begged, my hay, and I took in payment a barrel of his beer, and very poor stuff it was. My feelings on the return journey may have borne some resemblance to those of Moses Primrose after his more famous deal. What I missed most in America was the riding. All the time I was there I don't remember seeing a dozen men on horseback, except a few " bosses " every now and then in political processions, when they would have been safer on foot. I had seen abundance of fast trotters in buggies and "sulkies," and, once. Flora Temple trotting her twenty miles in an hour. I had ridden occasionally for a whole day in search of strayed cattle, but without experiencing much pleasure from the exercise. My bullock team were greatly given to straying; one of them, which would have taken a jumping prize at any show, used to negotiate the six-foot high fence of the Illinois Central Rail Road as neatly as ever hunter with the Heythrop got over a stone wall. Driving my bullocks 95 A Sportsman of Limited Income home when I had found them was a fatiguing process, as when this plaguy animal jumped the fence (which he did for no reason but to annoy me) I had to dismount, tie my mare to the fence, climb over, and drive him back again. Sometimes he would go quite a long way before he could be induced to return, and then I had to retrace my steps to where I had left the mare. By the time I had re- mounted, the bullock had very likely climbed over again. His "butty" too seemed inclined to follow a bad example, so I sold the pair to a man who lived some twenty miles away on the other side of the railroad, which they seemed, for some occult reason, to prefer, and they troubled me no more. When, after my second year in America, I took a holiday and went to England for three months, in the winter, I looked forward eagerly to getting some hunting. Nor was I disappointed. One of my first visits was paid to a friend in Norfolk, who mounted me with the North Walsham Harriers. My mount was a four-year-old mare, which, though she gave me several falls by reason of her insisting on flying the "banks," instead of "kicking off" on the top, and so clearing the ditch, struck me as one of the best animals I had ever known. We had one extra- ordinary day when the hare, after a straight run of three miles, ran down the cliffs, and swam out to sea, followed by the hounds ; needless to say I did not follow them. So much was I pleased with the mare that I would have taken her back to America if I could have afforded it, and I made up my mind to become possessed of her if I returned to England before she was past mark of mouth. My holiday did me a lot of good, and I set to work with renewed zeal. In two years more I had got quite a a big herd together, and in another ten years or so I could 96 > '■^■M^'^- Thk Broad Walk, Christ Church, Oxford (1840). [See j>a£^e 35. America. — III see a chance of utilising my run, if by that time it was not sold or cut up into forty-acre lots. The sport was as good as ever, even better ; the slight increase in the number of settlers (none of whom, even yet, shot flying; indeed, very few possessed a " shooting iron " of any sort) favoured bigger bags, as the birds from miles round flocked to the cultivated ground. Only one or two superior people had put up notices warning off' trespassers " with dog and gun." I ought to have been contented, but I felt, nevertheless, that I was getting tired of it all. If man cannot live by bread alone, neither can he live by shoot- ing. It was the solitude, I think. Not that I did not know a number of Americans in Chicago and elsewhere, good fellows mostly, but they were, naturally, not quite what I had been used to, and I was getting weary of them. In my first and second years a friend or two from England had looked me up. I had shown them what sport was to be had, fed them up on mush and prairie chicken, and then finished up by spending a few days in Chicago with its ^^/^^j-^-civilisation. I began to think of quitting. There would be no difficulty about this, as my land was getting valuable. The tiny village up at the station had been growing slowly, very slowly. In addition to the blacksmith's shop and the one private house, which were there when I came, we now possessed a whisky saloon — a foul hole where " 40 rod " was sold by the usual Irishman — and finally a store. It was this last that was indirectly the cause of my leaving. The store was owned by two brothers P , one of whom was a capital fellow, said to be a retired slave-driver, who resided there as manager. One day he came to me — I suppose the money was coming in slowly — and said he wanted to sell out. When he went on to say that he G 97 A Sportsman of Limited Income wished to give me the refusal of his store, his " town lots," and other property, 1 stared, and told him I didn't want it. Nothing daunted, he began to enlarge on its advan- tages, and the certainty of its speedy improvement. He would take $3000. He would take $2000. If I thought it only worth $1500 he would see his brother, who would perhaps agree to take that sum. I hadn't any money? Oh, that didn't matter, I would pay when I got some. (Every one used to say this to me when I pleaded lack of cash instead of jumping at a "bargain.") It was Saturday evening, and I told him, as he was rushing off to take the train to Chicago to see his brother, that my offer, supposing I had made it, was not a standing one, and I might change my mind by Monday morning, when he would return by the first train. He smiled ; he knew better. When he was off I began to think. Buying a country store was not a very sporting thing to do, not my idea at all of " sport on a limited income." Doubtless S would manage the store for me, but I should be tied to the country all the same, if not to the counter. I felt like Robinson Crusoe; "never hear the sweet music . . ." of the hounds in full cry ; then all the half-forgotten pleasures of sport in the old country came to my mind. That settled it, I would see P and his store hanged first. On Sunday morning I drove across the prairie to where a Scotchman, L , a great friend of mine, managed a farm of two square miles for a Southerner, a West Point man, who had not been seen since the arising of the rumours that were anticipating the Civil War. L I knew was very uneasy, and desirous of taking a little place for himself. I thought it likely he would take mine. So it proved, when he drove back with me, and in an hour or so we had 98 America. — III valued the live and dead stock — for which he gave me bills — and drawn up an agreement. P got off the train on Monday morning, and rushed to embrace me. '' I'm pleased to say that my brother " he began, when I interrupted him. " I've changed my mind ; I'm going to England this week." He wouldn't believe it at first, and when he did he seemed to think I had wronged him, but I reminded him of what I had said when he left me. In a week I was on my way to England. Before leaving I made a hasty trip to bid farewell to old David, and left some cattle in the bush in his charge. Years after, when I paid a visit to America, the old man re- minded me that he owed me S2CX) for a pair of black bullocks which were then getting quite elderly. The cows I had left with him were still the same number, old David having probably eaten the increase. I thought it was like wrapping another man's talent in a napkin. On the way to New York I made friends with an Englishman who was also going home. On our arrival we went to an of^ce — to which a tout introduced us — to get our tickets. I don't know to this day whether it was a '' bogus " office or not, but of these there were then plenty in New York. The man sold us tickets by a steamship advertised to start the next day, but which, on inquir}', we found had not come in yet. I believe she did not come in for fourteen days or so, having been awfully knocked about, and the captain killed on deck by a falling spar. As we could not aftbrd to stay in New York, we went back to the office to get our tickets changed to a boat going on the morrow. The fellow laughed at the idea of disgorging, and told us to go to H . We went out, looking, I dare say, very foolish ; 99 A Sportsman of Limited Income but I was determined to get the money back somehow, and meeting a policeman a few doors off accosted him. He looked us over and smiled, no doubt considering us greenhorns, which I don't think was quite the case. Then, without a word, he walked back with us to the office. " You go in," he said, " and ask him for your money again." We did so, and the manager was recommencing to swear, when looking up he saw the policeman, standing by the door, revolver in hand. Whether it was bluster on the officer's part I don't know, but the manager went to a drawer, brought out the money, and slapped it down on the counter. I have no doubt the recording angel dropped a tear — it would require "one of the largest size " — on the page or two of oaths that he may have thought under the circumstances not wholly inexcusable. I will here briefly conclude the story of my connection with America, of which my recollections — the dull and dreary parts, as usual in such cases, having been almost forgotten — are very pleasant. The kind way in which the Americans treated a newcomer will always abide with me, together with the memories of the sport which no one envied me or interfered with ; which cost me nothing, and which no one, even with an income other than limited, will ever see again. The American shoots flying now — it was some time before he took to it. He has his preserves, carefully looked after, like those of an English nobleman, but the wild freedom is over. The rolling prairie is parcelled out into lots of all sizes, down to forty acres, tenanted by Dutchmen and others who know nothing of sport, and who lead a sordid life in a trying climate dominated by Trusts. Iowa, lOO America. — III Nebraska — in my day looked on as Ultima Thule — Kansas (it was " bleeding Kansas " then) are filled to overflowing ; a thousand miles galloped over in fifty years ! Nothing left now, as a settler from Montana remarked to me the other day, but to glide down the slope into the Pacific. On my return to England I had constant reminders of my land on the prairie. Once it was a letter from a lawyer to say that my fence must be moved, as I had omitted to leave space for a road, which indeed I had not expected would be required for some generations. To move some miles of fencing and set it up again, boring the new post holes, so to speak, with an augur three thousand miles long, was an expensive affair. This was nothing to hearing one day from a friend that my land had been sold for taxes. The law was that when the owner omitted to pay his taxes any other person could pay them, and so acquire a "tax title" which could only be redeemed by paying within one year to the holder double the amount he had disbursed. Clearly my tenant had not kept his agreement to pay my taxes, which, during the war, had risen from a mere trifle to quite a large annual sum. I made up my mind to get rid of the land, and for this purpose it was necessary to cross the Atlantic once more. About a fortnight before Christmas I started on the s.s. Oida for New York. Before leaving I had three overcoats made as nearly as I could guess to fit three of my old friends. One was my tenant, for whom I had the greatest regard, though he was now putting me to the trouble of another journey to America ; the others were two Chicago friends who had shown me the greatest kindness during my stay in the country. I inquired of a Huddersfield man where 101 A Sportsman of Limited Income the best cloth was to be had, expecting to hear from him that it was procurable in his own town. Instead, he told me that for the very best I must go to France. I had three coats made of French cloth, which cost me about five pounds apiece. I was sadly afraid of having to pay duty on landing at New York, so wore them by turns, and had two of them on and my old coat, together with the other new one thrown over my arm, when asked if I had anything to declare. Seeing the official pay some attention to my attire, I explained that I had a fine taste in overcoats. He looked me over for a few seconds. " I reckon you don't mean to catch cold," he said good-humouredly as he passed on. When I got off the train one morning at my old station the first man I saw was my tenant L , to whom I had written from New York. He was at first awfully hurt, and said that I might have trusted him, but I soon smoothed him down. Things had been bad with him, he told me, and his wife had been ill. He wouldn't take his new coat, preferring to put up with my old one, which was a nuisance, as I had to wear the one intended for him, and as it never fitted me, and was of much too good material to wear out, it was some years before I felt satisfied with my appearance in winter. The other two coats fitted the intended wearers very well, but they were loth to accept them, saying that if I put them into an auction I could get 150 dollars apiece for them. I dare say they were right, but nothing was too good for the friends who had done so much for me, and whom I was never to see again. So reassured did I feel with L 's explanation that I went back to England without redeeming my taxes, or making any effort to sell the land, which I could see 102 America. — III was getting very valuable. And long before the year of grace was passed, L had bought back the " tax title," and put things straight again. Before leaving the country I made several excursions with L into the surrounding country, which was filling up fast. Not the least curious thing that I came across was at the big farm on which L had formerly been manager. The man, who had probably got it for a song (the original owner had not appeared in Illinois since the war), had taken over a herd of a hundred well-bred Durham cattle, which would soon have grown into a valuable property. Not content with these, he went down to Texas in the fall, and bought four or five hundred Texan bullocks, which he intended, no doubt, to drive home by the same route that the herd had taken that had formerly aroused my indignation by trespassing on my unfenced "estate." On account of cattle disease a detour was necessary, by which the arrival of the herd was delayed, and for the last portion of the journey there was little or nothing for them to eat. On the arrival of the survivors there was, on the two square miles in cultivation, a hundred acres of Indian corn (which had to be reserved for the shorthorns) and about twenty tons of hay. The speculator soon realised his difficulty, for he commenced advertising for hay, but as this com- modity had generally but little saleable value no one put up more than was sufficient for his own needs. More- over, he had forgotten, or never heard, that Texan cattle have never been accustomed to hay, and don't know what to do with it. The " proprietor " was absent, or I should greatly have liked to interview him. L and I went into the stockyard, extending over a hundred acres. The weather A Sportsman of Limited Income for the season was mild, but snow had fallen to a depth of three or four inches. A number of snow-covered mounds were scattered about the stockyard, as if it was a cemetery. Beneath these mounds lay, unstripped of their hides, the bullocks that had already died of hunger. On the surface of the snow, too weak to rise, each with a modicum of hay in front of him, lay the remainder that had not yet succumbed. I shall never forget the look of reproachful surprise in their magnificent eyes. " What do you mean me to do with this ? " My farewells in Chicago were soon made. The sportsmen who used to come out and shoot with us, or to see us shoot on the prairie, were now generals and colonels, and mostly wooden-legged or one-armed. I had seen Chicago in its childhood ; it was now grown up, and it didn't appeal to me any more. But even recent revelations cannot take away my pleasant memories of the youthful city I used to visit in my youthful days when, tired by the solitude of the prairie, I wanted a little society, or a day's fun. I should not care to see Chicago again, but I should like to revisit the prairie once more, and see how the trees are prospering that I planted fifty years ago. Before leaving New York I had laid in a supply of the best tobacco procurable, which I fondly hoped the Liverpool Custom-House officers would permit me to retain. I had already (as I mentioned in another book) had a great slice of luck when coming home from Malta, when my brother, a lieutenant R.N., came on board the troopship on her arrival at Portsmouth, and escorted me and my Gibraltar purchases to the Victoria and Albert^ on which he was serving. My venture on the present occasion was of far better quality, and my anxiety all the 104 America. — III more poignant. I had ten pounds of Virginian leaf in half-pound cakes, which had cost me a dollar per lb. To the inquiry, "Have you anything to declaire?" I replied that I supposed I was permitted etc. etc. — the usual thing on those occasions. The officer's suspicions were evidently aroused, and he commenced rummaging in my bag, when, of course, he came on the cakes of tobacco, and, indeed, the bag contained little else. Giving a quick glance round, he carried one of the cakes to his nose — which I remember was a very large one — and, after an appreciative sniff, put it in his pocket, closed and marked my bag, and left me without a word, and uncertain whether to be thankful or angry. 105 CHAPTER VIII. BRIDGNORTH. FATE, chance, luck, or whatever any one chooses to call it, took me, soon after my return from America, to the neighbourhood of Bridgnorth, where I leased a clay farm of from 400 to 500 acres. It was rather a rash proceeding, but I wanted to be doing something, and had no prophetic insight into the future of farming on strong land. In the early sixties changes which were to have a great effect on the future of country life and of agriculture were within visible distance. The scythe, which for centuries had done such excellent service not only in its more legitimate line, but also, not infrequently, in warfare, was being gradually superseded by mowing and reaping machines. The vast majority of these hailed from America, where they had long been considered indispensable by every farmer who owned a forty-acre lot. Some of the leading English manufacturers of agricultural implements had tried unsuccessfully to improve on the American patents. The most futile, if the most amusing, attempt was that of a firm who invented a machine which horses were to push instead of pull ; but this truly original suggestion was not destined to be long-lived. Welsh and Irish labourers were beginning regretfully to discontinue the journey they had made, during harvest-time, to the same farm for many years. Their abstention was to be 106 Bridgnorth followed a little later — as rats leave a sinking ship — by that of the natives, who were become " ambitious of the town." Cattle-dealers, an honest and capable set of men, and hitherto the chief dependence of the stock-breeding farmers, were to be driven out by the auctioneers, and the value of land in clay counties was to drop to nothing at all. I soon found there were disadvantages in a position I had rather hastily assumed, yet it was not long before I saw that I might have done worse. True, there was little chance of making money, or of getting much profit intellectually, still, I might be able to keep what I had. There was, at any rate, plenty of fresh air, any amount of hunting and shooting at what would now be considered infinitesimal cost, and association with men who, if not very clever in the city acceptation of the word, were an honest and true-hearted race, and some of them even in those days interesting characters. They would be still more interesting could they be met with to-day, but, alas 1 they have departed, and their successors, however worthy, are of a different sort. The isolation of that part of Shropshire was favourable to "character," which flies the intrusion of strangers as an owl from the teasing attention of small birds. At that date most of the visitors to Bridgnorth arrived by a unicorn coach from Shifnal. It was the time when the glories of the old coaching days w^ere over, and their place had not yet been filled by the railroads. The few coaches yet remaining on the roads were certainly not fitted to survive. I shall never forget the way in which the three skeleton horses attached to the Shifnal bus crawled along, while the driver nodded on his box. It was indeed only right that by a leisurely approach the 107 A Sportsman of Limited Income stranger should be prepared for the peaceful calm of what was almost, not quite, the sleepiest town in a county where none were too lively. In addition to the Shifnal coach there was a rather better two-horse bus from Wolverhampton, which contrived to continue running long after the opening of the Severn Valley Railway. This was driven for many years by a man named Sefton, a fine specimen of the stalwart Shropshire breed, and with the rare endowment of a fund of native humour. This gift he utilised — as is the case with humorists — in a way that must sometimes have been prejudicial to his business. When Mr. Sefton got a little " market peart," the return journey from Wolverhampton was not always entirely free from danger. The hill by which he had to make the descent into Bridgnorth is one of the steepest in England, and it was his delight if he had a nervous passenger, or one whom he chose to consider so, to gallop down this steep hill at top speed. Of course his knowledge of the road, and of his horses (and their understanding — which horses endowed with a little humour must surely have arrived at — of just how much was earnest and how much brag), made his recklessness less dangerous than it appeared to the stranger who was experiencing it for the first time. A regular traveller soon got to enjoy the fright of the novice as much as the driver himself — or else to pretend to. Sefton's skill, or luck, generally brought him and his fares through safely, but once a portion of his freight was shot through the bow-window of the little public-house — which stands, or used to stand, at the bottom of the hill — to the great dis- comfort of the two elderly landladies. Not that Bridgnorth in those days had a monopoly of isolation. There were places even more secluded and 108 Bridgnorth harder to arrive at, and on that account even more primitive. Some of these to this day preserve the personaHty — so to speak — which Bridgnorth may con- gratulate itself, fortunately on insufficient grounds, on having lost. Bewdley, near which town I afterwards resided for some years, has scarcely undergone any change since the days when it used to return two Members to Parliament, though the thousands of trippers may be too much taken up with admiring the blooming cherry orchards, or studying the intricacies of the river, to take much notice of the natives, who would prove at least equally worthy of their attention. As a student of their peculiar traditional customs, I must confess some of these incited rather to annoyance than admiration. It was difficult for a resident requiring a new door to appreciate the humour of the Bewdley carpenter, who would take the measure with his arms, which he would strive, of course unsuccessfully, to keep rigidly unmovable till he reached his shop. On his way home he would be accosted with the usual hospitable formula, " Come and have a drink, mate." To which the grieved but con- scientious workman would reply, " You d d fool, can't you see as I've got the measure for a door?" There was a large tannery in Bewdley, at which in the season the arrival of wagons laden with bark from the neighbouring forest made quite a busy scene. I would see from my window a loaded wagon drawn up, from which the horses would be removed. Some one would strew a few slabs of bark by the side of the wagon nearest the river. A big man — deus ex inachind — would then emerge from the tannery armed with a crowbar. This he would place under the wheel, while another man held the shafts. A jerk, and over went the wagon ; surely a clever 109 A Sportsman of Limited Income if primitive mode of unloading. Almost before the crash had travelled up to my window, the empty wagon had been reinstated, with a haste that may possibly have served to keep the proprietor in ignorance of the strain to which his vehicle had been subjected. There were some curious folk about Bewdley in those days, as very likely there are still. About the drollest was a man named Griffiths, a commission agent, from whom I used occasionally to buy linseed cake. He was quite without education, except of the most ele- mentary sort, yet posed as an author (of historical plays, amongst other things), and writer of poetry. On market days he used to try and persuade his customers to purchase his doggerel, which certainly had neither rhyme nor reason. Griffiths actually came forward as a Radical candidate for Bewdley at the General Election (I remember his informing me of the fact as he walked about Bridgnorth market with a big sample of cake under his arm) and obtained one vote — his own. He used to be favoured with a considerable amount of chaff, but no rhinoceros could have been more impervious, and his folly may have brought grist to the mill. Many years afterwards, when living near Kidderminster, 1 came across a book purporting to be a history of the town and its most notable citizens, when to my surprise I found my old linseed-cake friend exalted into "one of our worthies." It struck me that Kidderminster must have been rather hard up ! * . But a reputation for eccentricity may have been in those days a paying asset, though to-day it might consign its possessor to a lunatic asylum. Another amusing character, as I hope he still is, was the agent from whom I used to buy artificial manure, and no Bridgnorth whom I must have known for about forty years. His delight was in long words and high polite phraseology, which, when he was offended — fortunately a rare occur- rence — would diverge into an exaggeration of Maryatt's " bloody politeful." One day not so very long ago I found him at the bar of the Lion Hotel, Kidderminster, having a rather heated argument with a farmer about Phryne, of all people. " Here," he exclaimed as I entered, " is some one who can decide the question." Then turning to me, " This gentleman and myself have had a little difference of opinion. Would you have the great kind- ness to inform us who Phryne was ? I have been trying to persuade my friend that she was a lady of doubtful antecedents." I felt a little astonished, though I was fairly well used to his excursions into matters having little or no connection with the artificial manure trade. " Not very doubtful," I replied ; " Phryne was a ..." I never inquired what the farmer's opinion of Phryne might have been, or how he became interested in her character, but he may have bought a cow or a mare on whom the name had been bestowed by a previous owner. There was a young fellow who used to attend the Bridgnorth market with whom I dealt occasionally, chiefly, I think, to begin with, because he played a very good game of billiards. Once I sold him a quantity of beans ; when he paid me he had the assurance to dock me several pounds for quite an insufficient reason. I was standing on the steps of the newly built Market Hall (which no one used, all business being done in the street), when, seeing him some distance off, I called out in a loud voice, " B , you are a thief." It made quite a sensation. I had not seen him for over thirty years, when one day, being at the Talbot III A Sportsman of Limited Income Hall, Kidderminster, one market day on political business, I came across my friend of the beans, old looking and almost stone deaf. Rather to my surprise he accosted me at the top of his voice. " Do you remember calling out to me in Bridgnorth market, ' B , you are a thief? ' " The farmers raised a roar of laughter, and B seemed to enjoy the joke as much as any one else. The first year I was in Salop there was a good deal of charcoal burning ; several ironworks on the Severn banks belonging to Mr. Foster (who afterwards purchased the Apley estate) used charcoal in the manufacture of iron. Salop iron was then thought the best in the country. A year or two afterwards these works were standing idle, and I never heard any more of charcoal-made iron. The charcoal burners were a rough lot and notorious poachers. Pheasants in the breeding season are very pugnacious, and the burners were said to keep a gamecock to challenge them, and put them hors de combat^ whence they speedily went into the pot. I had not, in deciding on my new home, paid much attention to the scenery, and was therefore as much surprised as pleased to find that the locality, if rather wild, was exceedingly beautiful. The Severn flowed through Bridgnorth, four miles away, and on the other side, near- ing Ludlow, were the Clee Hills. Towards Shrewsbury the VVrekin rose out of a fairly level country, while within a drive the Caradoc uplifted its peak in the neighbourhood of Church Stretton. Bridgnorth itself was a quaint old town, with its Town Hall (the council chamber, apparently only to be reached by a ladder from the High Street), standing erect on its props in the centre of the roadway, as if waiting for another flood, and its fine old timbered 112 «^^-^^^■ ^^^^'^'-'-'^t^^^^- West Front of Christ Church, Oxford (1840). [See page 49^ Bridgnorth houses. It has long since been provided with a railway of the sort one would suppose it to have desired, which travels through a number of old-fashioned places till it arrives at Shrewsbury, formerly considered an Ultima Thule. I suppose the approaching traveller, craning his neck out of the carriage window, still compares Bridgnorth to Jerusalem, though the surrounding country is scarcely a replica of the Holy Land, nor do the Wheatland farmers, unless they have recently changed a great deal, bear any close resemblance to the Jews. My neighbours almost to a man were sportsmen, and fortunate in that the locality was an ideal one for the sportsman with a limited income. They made but little money, and that little they spent freely. There was a good deal of wheat grown on the strong land, which indeed would grow but little else, and the price was not yet absolutely prohibitive. A great number of Hereford cattle were bred and fatted on the rich grazing lands in Corve Dale and similar localities. If not cattle-kings, the Shropshire farmers were a well-to-do and independent class. Since I left America the farmers in the States have been practically ruined by the Trusts, and it seems too much to hope that the characteristics for which the English farmer has so long been noted have a chance of surviving much longer. My farming began very badly with the most disastrous season I ever saw or heard of On many farms in my neighbourhood no corn was carried to the rickyard. For some reason, probably the eccentricity or impecuniosity of my predecessor, I had less grain to harvest than should have been the case, and some of my wheat I managed to stack, but greatly out of condition. One farm on which I had the shooting was a melancholy sight, the wheat standing in the fields in October, the shocks grown H 113 A Sportsman of Limited Income together, while the oats which had been cocked were mere heaps of ill-smelling black dust. In addition to the shooting on my farm of four or five hundred acres, I had shooting rights over the remainder of my landlord's estate ; and these extended to rabbits, to the great annoyance of the tenants, one of whom was accustomed to state that he had lost a cow in a hole which I had had dug when searching for a lost ferret. The whole district, notwithstanding the stiff clay, was overrun with rabbits, which required an immense amount of keeping down, or they would soon have eaten up everything, as in Australia. It took quite a year's apprenticeship before I was able to make head against them. Afterwards, with careful management, they never gave me any trouble, but a good deal of pleasure, except when I happened to be asked out to lunch, and my host thoughtfully regaled me on rabbit pie ! Fortunately it was considered bad form to have one of these little beasts on the table. They were carefully reserved for the weekly advent of the " higgler " — a race of men even more useful to the small farmer than the cattle-dealer — who found appreciative customers in the " Black Country." For a clay country partridges were plentiful, and we had an occasional stray pheasant, and a few woodcock. There were stubbles in those days, not the bare shaven things that now usurp the name, but a thick cover, a foot or so high, interwoven with all sorts of weeds, and making better lying than swedes. On the advent of the reaping machine, partridges which had been accustomed in September to lie like stones till they were kicked up under the nose of the old pointer, soon de- veloped new habits, and began to run down the furrow as soon as you came into the field. This necessitated 114 Bridgnorth driving ; but for the destruction of the old stubbles, people might yet be found " pottering," as some call it, with a pointer — than which I feel sure there was no more enjoy- able or sportsmanlike way of shooting. However, I soon found that I was not to be entirely dependent for my sport on shooting. I had only played cricket in " aquatics " while at Eton, and was surprised when I first joined the Bridgnorth Cricket Club to find that my play had improved instead of deteriorating. I had lost touch with all my old friends while in America, but found six or seven Christ Church men members of the club. The majority had been at the House with me, but, having lived all their lives in one of the dullest neighbourhoods in England, they were not particularly lively. One of them had nearly killed me when a friend was bowling lobs to him on the Ch. Ch. ground, and I was doing ditto hard by to some one else. A man named Colley used to play regularly with the B.C.C., who had made over seventy runs in an innings in the Oxford and Cambridge match ; he never made any with us, and I suppose the bowling was not good enough for him. One of the annual matches played by the B.C.C. was on the late Lord Stamford's ground at Enville. Lord Stamford used to play with the Enville club when staying at the Hall. He bowled very fast underhand, a practice that, if reintroduced in the present day, might prove very destructive to good batsmen — which we were not. On a hard wicket the way his lordship used to make the ball whiz about one's ears was a caution ; and what particularly vexed him was to see the intended victim taking things calmly instead of funking. With all his faults — one of which was the over- preservation of game, whereby the farmers on the estate 115 A Sportsman of Limited Income were as surely eaten up as if they had themselves been rabbits or pheasants — Lord Stamford was immensely popular in the district, and his victories on the turf (which would have been more considerable had not his hot temper led him so frequently into disagreement with his trainer or jockey for the time being) were welcomed with enthusiasm. I remember being one day at Wolver- hampton market, when I saw a small landowner and farmer from the Enville district walking on the other side of the street. He was laughing to himself, and slapping his thigh at intervals when I crossed the street and asked him what the dickens was the matter. " Matter ! " he said ; well, not much the matter. Only Lord Stam- ford won a hundred thousand from Lord D last night." How he had got the news, and whether it was true, I don't know, but there was an impression that Lord D was not a very desirable friend to the Lord of Enville, though the latter might have been supposed to be able to take care of himself It might seem that with hunting, shooting, and cricket I should have found plenty of occupation even without farming, which last required a great amount of time and attention. The chief market towns were at a great distance, Ludlow, the best market for Hereford cattle, was sixteen miles off; Wolverhampton twenty, and Shrewsbury twenty-four. This last opened at eight, so that to drive there one had to start at 5 a.m. If you arrived a little late everything had been bought up by the dealers, who would ask a big profit. Yet the fact of being hard worked did not prevent me from taking up another occupation, and from this I reaped — while doing, I hoped, some good in my generation — a fund of instruction and 116 Bridgnorth amusement. Needless to say the new occupation was politics. I had been brought up a Tory, and did not find that my long stay in America had done anything to change my opinions. Indeed, I think it was rather the reverse. Though not a voter for the borough, I soon began to take an interest in Bridgnorth politics. Several of the " Freemen " worked for me, or in some other way came under my influence, and I was frequently asked to try my hand on some one who had managed to escape the net which was pretty closely drawn. This book has nothing to do with politics, but I cannot refrain from giving an instance of the strange way in which the Freeman of Bridgnorth regarded his privilege of " exercising the franchise." Once on the eve of an election I was asked to canvass a Freeman of good position and more than average intelligence, one R , a farmer, over whose land I had the shooting, and who eked out his farming by making draining tiles. There were three candidates in the field for one vacant seat : Mr. Henry Whitmore of Apley, a Tory, and R 's landlord ; Mr. Pritchard, a rich Bridgnorth banker of no particular politics ; and Sir John (afterwards Lord) Acton, a Liberal. The situation was made more complicated by the fact that R 's farm was on the point of being sold to Pritchard, while Sir John's agent had developed a mania for draining, which caused a vast number of draining tiles to pass from R 's yard to Aldenham. I called in one day after shooting to inter- view R , who seemed delighted to explain matters. *' Naturally I should have voted for Whitmore, but he is selling the farm to Pritchard. Then Sir John is getting a lot of tiles off me. I'd best not vote at all." I demurred to this, and put in a few words about the 117 A Sportsman of Limited Income farmers' duty to the Tory party, and so on ; but he did not appear to be greatly moved. At last, " I'll go and fetch my book." Leaving me, he returned shortly with a book contain- ing the accounts of his sales of draining tiles. After some time spent in calculations, " I find," he said, "that Whit- more has had quite a lot of tiles ; not so many as Sir John, but he's not my landlord. Pritchard will be soon ; but he hasn't had any tiles. You may say I shall be pleased to vote for Whitmore." As I have before remarked I was never much of a fisherman, but I now possessed a trout stream, a very little one, and hard to fish on account of the overhanging trees. I used to " lade " it every year, damming the stream, and running off the water through a number of wooden troughs. The men enjoyed the "sport" immensely. I used to get a few pails full of moderate- sized trout, which else would have been utilised by the herons from Lord Forester's heronry. In the first year of my tenancy I came one day on the son of a neighbour- ing landlord and J. P. walking calmly up the brook with his rod. " I've got quite a nice basket of trout," he said (so he had). " I come here every year." He did not offer me any trout, but I said nothing, as we were very good friends. That autumn there was a General Election. I had been doing a little political work, and a man living on the other side of the country, proprietor of two or three small farms in my neighbourhood, who had been in correspondence with me about his tenant's political leanings, advised me to go over his farms some day and see if I could find anything to shoot at. One day I went with a sporting friend to look for them. They were hard to find and not much use, with the exception of one, u8 Bridgnorth where there was a patch of three or four acres of heather in front of the house. This was full of birds, and we made up quite a nice little bag. Taking leave of the farmer's wife, whom we presented with a brace of birds, we told her we would pay her farm another visit very shortly. " Oh," said she, '' that bean't our land as you shot 'em on. That belongs to Squire P " — whose son had caught my trout. I wrote and apologised, not very humbly, as I was thinking of a " Roland for an Oliver," and got a very nice polite reply saying it didn't matter at all. I had another proof that it is unwise to be hard on any one for a small peccadillo when you are at all likely to be in the same box yourself. I was one day walking along a footpath leading to an outlying farm about four miles from my house, where I had the shooting, when a number of quite large birds got off the stubble at some distance and settled in the big straggling hedge adjoining the footpath. I had not the remotest idea what they were, but when my dog pointed in the hedge and they flew out, I got a brace right and left, and on picking them up, saw to my surprise that they were grouse. I heard afterwards that there were always a few grouse on the Brown Clee Hill adjoining. The next market day at Bridgnorth a very rude little man came up to me, and said he heard I had been poaching on his shoot, and had shot some grouse. I explained the matter, saying it was owing to curiosity on my part, and that I would send him the grouse if he wished ; but he made a great row, and at last I walked away, " leaving him to it," as they say. A week or two afterwards my bailiff and keeper told me he had seen the little man, who was some sort of a bagman, when driving along the Ludlow road, about three fields from my house, stop his horse, get out of his trap, and shoot over 119 A Sportsman of Limited Income the hedge into a covey of partridges grouped on the stubble. This was a very soothing quid pi'o quo, the more so as on the appearance of my man the Httle bagman had jumped into his trap and driven off without the birds. 120 /' CHAPTER IX. CATTLE-DEALERS IN THE SIXTIES. IF, as seems fair, the provider of sport is entitled to take rank as a sportsman, the leading cattle-dealers in South Shropshire had an undeniable claim to the honour, since without them sport in the district would have been impossible for men of limited incomes. In addition, they had the great recommendation, than which nothing is more characteristic of the true sportsman, of finding their own sport and enjoyment in the business in which they found themselves placed, and which they followed, to the exclusion of all other matters whatsoever. It is hard to say how, in the days before auctions, the Wheatland farmers, many of whom never dreamt of keep- ing banking accounts, would have got on without the cattle-dealers. There were a number of them in my day, and of these, two, of quite opposite characteristics, were notable men. The first of these, Tom Davis by name, was certainly the most remarkable cattle dealer I^ever heard of, and to do him justice would require the pen of a Smiles. He was a little, wiry, fresh-coloured man of about forty, with a gentlemanly address, and an insinuating smile, which could not but have its effect on all who came across him, from gentlemen farmers to butchers. He was one of the best and quickest judges of sheep or cattle that ever went X2I A Sportsman of Limited Income into a market. By seeing him so frequently about our neighbourhood, and from knowing that he had a large farm a few miles away, many got to fancy that he was merely a local dealer, and our peculiar attribute. So also may have thought the farmers of many other districts ; but the fact was very different. He lived at Wolver- hampton, in the Black Country, finding that a convenient centre from which to travel all over the Midlands. On Monday he attended Liverpool market, a journey of over a hundred miles, and to reach there in time for the market, then held much earlier than is now the custom, he would have to spend a good portion of Sunday night in the train. Travelling back after market he would reach home late on Monday evening. On Tuesday there was a large weekly market near home. On Wednesday he would be at Wolverhampton, where he nominally lived, and on Thursday at Birmingham. I forget his Friday's task, but the day was certainly not unoccupied. Saturday (except when there was a monthly or fortnightly cattle market which he wished to attend, and which might be in any county) he would devote to looking over his farms, of which he had two or three large ones always crowded with sheep and cattle, or to driving about amongst his numerous customers. When the season permitted — that is, always except in mid- winter — he would, at the conclusion of each market, ransack the neighbourhood he happened to be in. How he found time and energy to visit all these markets, in addition to calling on his legions of customers, was a mystery even to those who knew him best. But he managed it somehow. He had, of course, to pay the penalty of his success and popularity. If he had desired ever so earnestly to do less business, he would have been 122 Cattle-Dealers in the Sixties forced to continue in the old groove or give up altogether, as many of his customers would have nothing to do with any other dealer while he was to the fore. Failure — not that he ever failed — to keep an appointment would frequently have meant a financial crisis to a hard-working but overburdened farmer. At night, when other dealers were enjoying a glass, or glasses, in the bar of their favourite inn, and waxing eloquent over the day's successes or failures, he would be engaged, after a frugal meal, in going through the day's accounts with his clerk. These were always posted to his customers next morning, and he was himself a good accountant and correspondent. Bank holidays were his great delight ; no child could have more enjoyed what he was pleased to consider a holiday. Contrary to most people's ideas he would have liked a few more of them, and he probably thought that Sir John Lubbock — as he was then called — was the most practical and businesslike of statesmen. He would start from home at daybreak, driving twenty miles or so into the country with his big brown horse, which was almost as well known in the district as its master, to a farm where he had pre- viously arranged to look at some beasts. From thence he would get the farmer to drive him to another place, whence he would be forwarded to another ; in good times selling, perhaps, at the next farm the stock bought at the last. He was such a valuable man to the country that the farmers would do anything for him ; but it was not every one he would visit. Towards night he would have worked round to the farm at which he had left his horse in the morning. Then came the twenty-mile drive home, where he would arrive sometime in the small hours, having thoroughly enjoyed his holiday. Perhaps his plan was as healthy a way of spending his time as 123 A Sportsman of Limited Income that of many others. Oddly enough, though he did a large business, often amounting to thousands of pounds a week, with a London agent, he had never been in London. It was said that he once started, and got as far as Rugby, when he returned — I forget why. The enormous amount of work he had to get through found him out at last, and he died a comparatively young man, from a slight illness which he had left himself no surplus power to resist. No man could possibly have been more missed, and he left a gap that it took a dozen of the ordinary dealers to fill, and even then it was not filled in the same style. He was not above the necessary arts of a dealer, whose absence would have caused many to put him down as a fraud, and without which he would not long have remained a dealer. But his depreciation of his customers' wares, and " cracking up" of his own were exceedingly moderate, if not absolutely true or conspicuous by their absence. He was a thoroughly honest man, and it would have been hard to find any one in any walk of life — I say this advisedly — more respected. Times have altered since then, and it is not risking much to prophesy that his like will never appear again. One of what he considered his amusements is worth noting. In the Birmingham cattle market when trade was dull, and butchers — which was seldom the case — deaf to his blandish- ments, he would fill up the time by making careful estimates of the weight of the cattle he had for sale. With these on next market day he would compare the real weight as returned by the butchers to whom the cattle had been sold. Cattle in a dull market are generally sold by weight. This amusement was all very well and improving for the assistant, but it was a great proof of modesty that he should imagine that there was any room for improve- ment in him. But it is the men with most knowledge who 124 Cattle-Dealers in the Sixties are most anxious to acquire more. Just as the busiest men always have a little spare time, whereas the idlers never have time for anything. After his death it seemed as if very little good had come of all this slaving process, and some people went so far as to pity him, in that — in their view — he had got no fun out of his life. I certainly knew him well enough to be certain that he would have got no enjoyment out of it in any other way. All men are not similarly constituted, and there may be professions generally thought less seductive than cattle-dealing, on the followers of which a good deal of pity is wasted by men who cannot understand that there are persons who, fortunately for themselves, take a pride in doing well whatever they have to do. The last time I saw him, he knew he was dying. His eyes had a weary look, whether from illness, or because he could not go on dealing, it is impossible to say. " God bless you, old chap," I said, but the words seemed to have very little meaning to him. Any heaven without a cattle market at least twice a week he would have found very dull. He looked wearied and worn out, and motioned me away. He had been an honest man and wronged no one. On the contrary, he had done much good, and forgiven many who had wronged him. I think his only feeling with regard to dying was a dread of enforced idleness. There are many to whom this would not be a very terrifying prospect. It would have been quite impossible for Tom Davis, even had he been more zealous and energetic than the reality, to do all the work of a district which included Corve Dale and other noted cattle-raising centres. Ben Cooper of Pattingham, who shared the trade — I am sure the idea of "rivalry" never suggested itself to either of 125 A Sportsman of Limited Income them — which before the introduction of auctions must have been exceedingly profitable, was equally well known and trusted. Yet no two men could have been greater contrasts. All Tom Davis required, even after a deal of exceptional magnitude, was a cup of tea, and I never remember seeing him touch a glass of liquor. Ben was a hard-headed old chap who could, and would, take any quantity of whisky, brandy, or gin, good, bad, or indifferent, and it was reported of him that he had tried the hardness of his skull against the curb stones of all the neighbouring market towns. He died not very long ago, having survived his more temperate colleague for many years. There was little to choose between the judgment of the two men, though I have heard some say that Ben was the better judge of a beast — he could scarcely have been much better. I was myself a witness of the celerity with which he could price a number of cattle with, it seemed, merely a glance of his eye. During the rinderpest scare in the winter of 1866, when the plague seemed to be advancing towards our neighbourhood, he was fearful that the restrictions imposed on the moving of cattle would make it difficult for him to supply his customers in the spring. He therefore asked me (and no doubt a number of others) to feed some cattle for him till the beginning of May, which, if not permitted to remove, he would slaughter on the premises, and for which he would pay eightpence per lb. I thought this quite good enough, though as a rule I did not do much winter cattle-feeding, and I managed to feed twenty-two beasts, of which I was getting rather tired before the time came to hand them over. Being doubtful of my own judgment, I asked the Scotch bailiff of a neighbouring magnate to come over and value them, when, after an hour or so's consideration, we arrived 126 Cattle-Dealers in the Sixties at the sum of ^510. Old Ben turned up after dark on the appointed day, and without having his horse taken out, marched off to the cow-house. He came out in five minutes, or less. " If I give you a cheque for five hundred and five," he said, " there won't be much the matter." So I thought, and he wrote out the cheque, had a drink or two, and was gone. I am not sure that in those days it was an advantage to a dealer to be temperate and sober. Apparently few dealers used to think so. If a dealer determined on being temperate, he had to start with a cast-iron will, while if he was to be the reverse, he had J to be provided with a cast- iron head and inside, to enable him to swallow with impunity the awful stuff served out at the publics he was forced to frequent. There are men still surviving who have got drunk after every market for forty years on the vilest of vile liquors. One of these, a clever fellow enough, who had made a large fortune, once remarked to me in a hurt tone, when half-seas over, that he supposed I did not think him fit to black Tom Davis' boots ; to which I quite honestly replied that I didn't. There were' some curious characters among farmers in those days, many of whom could imagine no greater insult than for a man to refuse to drink with them. Jerry , one of the best-known farmers in Corve Dale, who kept a fine herd of Hereford cattle, used always to feed a big lot of bullocks for the Christmas market, and for these there would be considerable com- petition. Tom Davis would very likely go to look at them, but, as he would not stop to make a night of it, he had but little chance of acquiring them. The day after his visit Ben might rattle up to the door with his thoroughbred horse in the shafts. If, as was likely, it was getting dark, he would ask for a lantern, and go straight 127 A Sportsman of Limited Income off to look at the bullocks. In about two minutes, during which time the man would have taken out his horse, he would come back. *' How much for them bullocks?" Jerry would ask twenty-five pounds, when Ben would bid twenty. After supper the two would sit down by the kitchen table, and try to drink one another under it. By slow degrees, and with vast expenditure of cider — to my astonishment it has recently been stated in Parliament that cider is non-intoxicant — the seller's price would come down, while the offer of the would-be purchaser would rise to meet him. Once they were reported to have been found in the morning, their arms leaning on the table, both fast asleep. On one occasion the battle raged for three days and nights, when old Ben departed, looking as fresh as paint, but without the bullocks. He may indeed have forgotten the object of his coming. It is hard in these times to imagine how any farmers could have got on in this way, but the fact may be thus accounted for. Their rents and payments were low, they spent little or nothing on themselves except in drink. Their labour bills were low, owing to most of their land being in grass. The grass land was good, and they had sufficient sense to value the famous herds of cattle which grazed it. Fat beasts were dear, and they made their own cider. In addition to these two notable men there were scores of little dealers, shrewd enough most of them, but unable to make more than a living, owing, generally, to their love of " a glass." A few of the smartest of these made money during the rinderpest scare, when it was impossible to get any cattle at all except through the benevolence of the dealers, who charged what they liked, and were the only 128 o > in p < o Cattle-Dealers in the Sixties people really conversant with the troublesome and exacting regulations. One of these men, who leapt suddenly into comparative affluence, though, like many other dealers in those days, he could neither read nor write, I knew very well, and he was useful to me on many occasions. I remember him as usually having his head bound up with a red silk handkerchief, in consequence, I suppose, of an affray on the previous evening. He lived close to Lord (then Sir John) Acton's place at Aldenham, and was, if I am not mistaken, a tenant on the estate. VVe had just had a fright, as the Government Inspector had declared the cattle on Sir John's home farm to be infected with rinderpest, and had ordered them all, about fifty in number, to be pole-axed. According to the experience elsewhere, we expected the plague to spread to our own homesteads, but days and weeks passed without our fears being realised. I called on the dealer, Adams by name, to induce him to send me, as a special favour, some cattle I urgently wanted. After our business was transacted he said that if I had a few minutes to spare he would like to show me something. He took me, with an air of mystery, his finger on his lips, to the boundary of his farm, and, looking over the hedge on to Sir John's home farm, pointed out to me a thick crop of saffron — colchicum, or autumn crocus — growing luxuriantly in the field on the other side. This plant, as I well knew, was dangerous to cattle turned out on it through carelessness or ignorance. Sir John mistrusting, I suppose, native talent, had imported a new agent from Norfolk, where (perhaps owing to the immunity of the natives from gout) saffron may have been unknown. The new agent turned some hungry cattle on to this field, grateful, no doubt, for what he imagined "an early bite." " Rinderpest," whispered Mr. Adams with a smile, as he I 129 A Sportsman of Limited Income pointed over the hedge. Indeed, it was shortly decided by- local judges, to our great relief, that the supposed cattle plague was only a case of our old acquaintance " saffron," and it must have been long before the agent forgot the properties of that previously unknown herb. 130 CHAPTER X. FARMERS AS SPECIALISTS. FORTY years ago there were more specialists to be found among farmers than is now the case. Sir Walter Scott's remark that a literary career should be looked on rather as a walking stick than a crutch, applies with equal force to a specialite as an aid to the more commonplace work of the farmer, though in these days of keen competition even the least profitable divergence from the beaten path is unlikely to remain the monopoly of the inventor for more than a season or two. In old days the specialist was more fortunate. One of the earliest and most successful was the now almost forgotten " Simpson," who may have been indebted to his prosperity for the simplicity of his methods. " Simpson " was the embodiment of milk adulteration in the last century. The original was probably a large dairy farmer in the neighbourhood of London, a genial old fellow who considered his special treatment, which was merely the diluting of the milk as provided by the cow with as much water as his customers would stand, a joke of the first water; and indeed no joke is as good as the one that pays you. There was probably a verb "to 'Simpson'/' though certainly not in general use. Oddly enough " Simpson's " customers were equally alive to the humour of paying for new milk and getting the bluest of sky blue. 131 A Sportsman of Limited Income Indeed, till quite recently a milkman taking his milk from a farm would drive his cart straight to the pump, and pump water into his cans, till, if the farmer happened to be about, he was ordered to stop, when he would, almost reluctantly, make the addition of a little milk. There were curious ideas about milk in those days, many people believing that it was chiefly composed of calves' brains and chalk, but it is certain that " Simpson " would never have authorised the expenditure that the more costly of these ingredients would have involved. He has departed, and, indeed, was scarcely fitted to sur- vive. People are now so wanting in humour as to be unable to see any joke in the adulteration of milk which is now subjected to pains and penalties more or less deterrent. The stream once so profitable to " Simpson " and his successors has been diverted into other channels, and the pumpers are now so skilful and energetic that almost everything we eat or drink is more or less of a make-believe. Another once profitable specialite, which has also come to grief, was taking farming pupils. While there was still a profit to be extracted from the pleasant pursuit of agriculture, numbers of young men of good family were sent to noted farmers, chiefly in Norfolk and the Lothians, to learn farming. Nowadays parents prefer their sons to matriculate in stock-jobbing or wine-selling. Yet surely the advantage of agricultural lore to any one destined to succeed to an estate well out of the reach of the jerry-builder is more obvious than ever. In the sixties I used frequently to visit a Norfolk farmer who occupied about 2000 acres of light land, all arable, with the exception of one lOO-acre meadow. He was an active young fellow, about thirty years old, already getting 132 Farmers as Specialists a little grey, and no wonder. His wife was a member of a noted farming family, her father and brothers holding about 7000 acres in the county. He had a large house, formerly occupied by the local squire, which was packed from attic to basement with pupils of whom he always had five or six at ;^200 a year, and his rapidly increasing family. A horse was kept for each pupil, and after break- fast the hacks were brought round, and the cavalcade accompanied their tutor round the farm. Instruction was blended with amusement ; there was a good deal of lark- ing over fences, and those who did not care to study agricultural lore could, at any rate, learn to ride. One day, I remember, we had a race, ten shillings entry, round a lOO-acre field that was being got ready for swedes. The going was first-rate, and, as I had been provided by my host with a superior quad, I managed to distance the lot. At dinner it was dress clothes and champagne. There have been considerable changes since that day ; not all for the worse. If there is no more champagne, neither does the landlord send round keepers, when the corn is about ankle high, to drive in stakes to prevent the tenant from using a reaping machine. This was not an unusual procedure in Norfolk. No doubt my friend's specialite was a useful help in a bad season, but I used to think that when the champagne and the horse's keep had been paid for there was not much left of the ;^200. When agriculture got into a bad way, farming pupils, like wheat, fell lower and lower in the market. First to ^100, then to ;^5o (when the " education " of the unfortunate youths was limited to chaff-cutting, and other menial occupations), and then to zero. The specialite was as dead as " Simpson " or Queen Anne. Later on there was the supplying of Shropshire sheep 133 A Sportsman of Limited Income (a breed that for many years was exceedingly fashionable at home and abroad) to Americans, then just beginning to turn their attention to the improving of their flocks — this not before it was needed. Out of the new develop- ment a number of Shropshire farmers, whose flocks were above the ordinary, made fortunes, and these, no doubt, supplied the genuine article. At cattle shows they would lunch sumptuously about twenty times a day — and even more frequently at the Royal — and each time with a differ- ent American in tow. I used to wonder how they could keep up even a pretence of an appetite. The Americans were so ingenuous (a less unusual trait with them than is generally supposed, if one may judge from the frequently recurring reports of transatlantic victims to the old and familiar " confidence trick "), that I am afraid a good number got taken in. A young man, a neighbouring farmer with whom I was acquainted, who was related to a successful breeder of Shropshires, went into the American business — as tipsters trade on the names of famous jockeys — and I was for some time puzzled to understand how he managed to supply his numerous clients from quite a small flock. I had some lambs once at a local sale, and to these my friend paid a good deal of attention. They were eventually knocked down to him, and, meeting him afterwards, he informed me — " only don't tell any one " — that one of my lambs had started for America. I forget the price, but it was, no doubt, more than I received for the whole pen, and conformable to the pedigree with which it had been supplied. And indeed the purchaser might have had a worse lamb. I believe that American taste has since shifted to Lincolns. In my opinion — perhaps a little prejudiced — it would have been better to stick to the Salopians. 134 Farmers as Specialists Yet another specialite that came in with the bad times was the attempt made by farmers in the neighbourhood of towns to subsidise their legitimate business by taking lodgers. I once paid a farewell visit to an old friend who was on the point of leaving the farm whereon he had been born and bred. This move had been decided on not from any desire to cast himself adrift from the associations of a lifetime, but because the agriculture in which he delighted had, so to speak, receded, and left him high and dry. Rather, perhaps, his once quiet home had been overwhelmed by a flood of buildings and villas occupied by townsfolk with whom he had nothing in common. He was a cheery old fellow, and I found him seated on one of his boxes, watching the loading of the last van with furniture, of which he had inherited or collected a vast but not very valuable store. In his right hand was an oak stick with which he was making passes, not very vicious ones, in the direction of an intrusive crowd of queer and uncountrified-looking men and women who were attempt- ing, some with threats and others with no less futile blandishments, to force an entrance some hours before the expiration of his legal tenancy. The incoming farmer had already let his house, with the exception of the kitchen and an attic or two, in suites to various lodgers from the neighbouring town. It was raining heavily, and this caused the delay in their anticipated introduction to furnished apartments in the country to be specially aggravating. The new farmer had not put in an appear- ance, but his wife was present in her new role of landlady, and engaged in smuggling in the more riotous, and con- doling with the less obstreperous of her clients. Passing out by the back way, after shaking my old friend's hand — for indeed it was no time for prolonged 135 A Sportsman of Limited Income leave-takings — I chanced upon a herd of eager supph'ants, resembling in their disarray a ghostly crowd awaiting Charon and his ferry, and each one bent on smuggling something over. At the door of the harness-room stood a hysterical woman bearing a cage, in which was a canary, apparently her sole possession. A man stood on the doorstep, watching like an exiled cat for the opening of the door, and holding suspended by a string a tawdry picture in a dilapidated frame ; presumably an heirloom which he was desirous of placing under cover in the new gallery- to-be. In the yard (drawn up side by side with a farm wagon, loaded with the soaked bedding whereon the new- comers were to repose) was a town cab, from the shafts of which the horse had been removed, and whose Jehu was grumbling at the non-arrival of the beer with which no one had thought it necessary to regale him. The windows of the cab were hermetically sealed, and the occupants were awaiting the course of events with a creditable amount of patience, slightly tempered with wonder. I have sufficient confidence in the shrewdness of the present race of farmers to feel certain that many of them would be quite capable of inventing new specialities, fitted to take the place of those that have unfortunately lapsed, were it not evident that in these days of fierce competition a hungry horde of imitators would hasten to profit by the experience of the yet unremunerated pioneers. 136 CHAPTER XL THE WHEATLAND HUNT. I FOUND the local hunt, the Wheatland, a rough-and- ready pack, and these epithets were equally applic- able to the field, which was only on very rare occasions supplemented by an iron master or two, or a sporting publican from the Black Country. I lived in the house that had recently been inhabited by the owner, John Baker, M.F.H., who, since resigning the Mastership of the Wheatland, had been twice promoted, the second time to the command of the North Warwickshire. He was one of those, still occasionally met with, who are born with an ineradicable love of sport. His subscription list, while hunting the Wheatland — a two-days-a-week pack — varied from ;^I40 toi^i70, and he had been accustomed to come home from hunting to dine on a red herring, washed down with a bottle of port. He would then start off on a night journey to Wales, where he was agent to a big landlord, making the return journey again by the night train in time for the next meet of his hounds. No doubt he quickly discarded the herring when he took up his residence at Leamington, compounding for it by a double allowance of port. In my time the subscription list of the Wheatland rose to ^400, which was considered sufficient to enrich the Master beyond the dreams of avarice. 137 A Sportsman of Limited Income I lost no time in making my appearance with the hounds, when my old pink, or rather mulberry, caused considerable surprise, but I couldn't afford to spoil a decent black coat, or to buy a green one — green was the colour of the hunt uniform. For seven years I seldom missed a meet of these hounds, or failed to be in at the death on the occasions, rather infrequent ones, when reynard was unable to save his brush. I was fortunate in possessing just the horse for the country, and if I had had the pick of all the hunting studs in England, I could not have found a more suitable one. The horse was indeed no other — as an Irishman would say — than the mare who had carried me so well when I had come over from America during the winter. One of the first things I did when I left the prairie " for good " was to inquire about her. I heard from my North Walsham friend that he had sold her to my brother, Captain R.A., to whom I had I suppose weakly let out the secret of her prowess. My brother was stationed at Tilbury, and about that district he was driving " my " mare in a high dogcart, and at a pace that I saw must soon finish her. Her pedigree was a trotting one, of which fact I had then heard nothing. However, for some reason, my brother was not particularly anxious to keep her, and he sold her to me, together with the trap and harness, in which she was seldom afterwards to figure. Shortly after I was riding her with the Wheatland Hunt, and she at once showed \v