.A OLD SETTLERS OF THE Grand Traverse Region Compiled by S. E. WAIT and W. S. ANDERSON Price -50 Cents _. I __ __ __ ~ --- ~ THE PIONEER BANK of the Grand Traverse Region Established in 1 85 6 by Hannah, Lay & Co. Traverse City State Bank Largest, Oldest and Strongest Banking Institution in Northwestern Michigan. I 11 -0. i i I I I I I S. E. WAIT "The Weather Man" Pioneer of 1850. Born Fairfield, Vermont, July 21, 1834. Was in the employ of first, Smithsonian Institution; second, the War Department; third, the Agricultural iepartment; fourth, the Michigan State Board of Health as Meterological (bserver. Furnished weather reports, weekly to the Grand Traverse Herald, daily to the Record and RecordEagle since 1876, and the ice record since 1851. The first recorded weather reports were furnished monthly to the "Herald" by Miss Leonora Phillips of Whitewater, commencing December, 1858. The next were furnished weekly to the "Herald" commencing December 1, 1859, by John F. Grant. OLD SETTLERS A Historical and Chronological Record TOGETHER WITH PERSONAL EXPERIENCES AND REMINISCENCES OF MEMBERS OF THE OLD SETTLERS OF THE GRAND TRAVERSE REGION The "Early Histories" were taken from Page's History of the Grand Traverse Region and from Personal Memory It would have given us Great Pleasure to have Published in Ful all Contributions sent in but in Order to Keep Within Bounds, have had to Curtail Some of 7-Tem. WE HEREBY WISH TO EXPRESS OUR SINCERE THANKS TO ALL THOSE WHO HAVE WILLINGLY AND GENEROUSLY FURNISHED MATERIAL AND ASSISTED US IN THE COMPILATION OF THE WORK Compiled by S. E4T WAIT and W. S. ANDERSON Copyright 1918, by S. E. Wait TRAVERSE CITY, MICHIGAN 1918 DATES, PRESIDENTS AND PLACES OF MEETING OF OLD SETTLERS' ASSOCIATION Date President Place of Meeting 1884...................... John McDonald................ Elk Rapids 1885......................... John McDonald...................Elk Rapids 1886.............. Alexander Campbell................Elk Rapids 1887................... James McLaughlin................Elk Rapids 1888.........................................No meeting held this year 1889................... John McDonald.................Elk Rapids 1890..............W............W. H. Fife.................... Elk Rapids 1891......................J. 0. Bloodgood...................Elk Rapids 1892.......................J. 0. Bloodgood............ Elk Rapids 1893....................... James McLaughlin.................Elk Rapids 1894....................... James McLaughlin................. Elk Rapids 1895................ James McLaughlin...............Traverse City 1896................. Perry Hannah..............Traverse City 1897................... E.....E. L. Sprague.................Traverse City 1898....................... J. McLaughlin..................Elk Rapids 1899................... J. H. Monroe............... 'raverse City 1900.........................H. K. Brinkman.................Old Mission 1901............... T. T. Bates............... Traverse City 1902....................... J. McLaughlin..................Elk Rapids 1903.............George A. Craker............... Northport 1904........................ Major Green.....................Charlevoix 1905................ Rose................... Petoskey 1906................. J. H. Monroe...........Traverse City 1907........................ *R. W. Bagot.............. Elk Rapids 1908......................Dr. W. M. Payne................. Suttons Bay 1909...........................C. H. Estes................ Traverse City 1910.........................W. S. Anderson......Traverse City 1911................. Hon. James Greacen..................Kalkaska 1912.................. A. V. Friedrich.............. Traverse City 1913................... Hon. W. W. Smith...............Traverse City 1914........................Dr. W. M. Payne................ Suttons Bay 1915......................Will R. Pratt......... Old Mission 1916................... W. L. Case.......................Benzonia 1917............... W. S. Anderson.................Traverse City 1918.............Archibald Buttars...................Charlevoix *Was to preside; died before meeting. CONSTITUTION ARTICLE I. The name of this Association shall be "The Old Settlers' Association of the Grand Traverse Region." ARTICLE II. The officers of the Association shall be a President, four Vice Presidents, or one from each organized county within the territory embraced by this Association, a Recording Secretary or Historian at large, four Historians or one from each organized county. ARTICLE III. The object of this Association is for the purpose of collecting and preserving historical, biographical or other information in relation to the past, present and future of this territory. ARTICLE IV. This Association shall embrace within its limits the territory now within the limits of the organized counties of Antrim, Grand Traverse, Kalkaska and Charlevoix. ARTICLE V. The annual subscription of voting male members of this-Association shall not be less than 50 cents nor more than one dollar as may be required by the by-laws. ARTICLE VI. Any person who has resided within the limits of said counties of Antrim, Grand Traverse, Kalkaska and Charlevoix for 20 years may become a member of this Association on subscribing to the articles of said Association and paying the membership fee as prescribed by the by-laws, but no member shall be entitled to vote or hold office unless 21 years of age. ARTICLE VII. That all persons living in any township of the territory included in the limits of this organization who have inhabited such township during the first ten years of its settlement may, by payment of the fees and conforming to the rules of this organization, on application become a member of the same. ARTICLE VIII. The annual meeting of this Association shall be held at Elk Rapids on the first Tuesday of March in each year, at which time the President, Secretaries and Treasurer shall each present full written reports, officers shall be elected for the ensuing year and general business may be transacted. Special meetings may be called as the by-laws may provide. ARTICLE IX. These articles of association may be amended at any regular meeting by a two-thirds vote of all the members present, provided that the proposed amendment shall have been filed in writing with the Recording Secretary and notice thereof given at the last preceding meeting and not less than one month prior to the time when the proposed amendments shall be called up for action. By-laws may be madle, altered or amended at any meeting on like conditions as to filing and notice by a majority vote of members present at any regular meeting. By-laws may be temporarily suspended by a unanimous vote of the members present at any meeting. ARTICLE X. The working Committee shall be appointed by the Vice Presidents from each county respectively and shall consist of one member from each organized township within the limits of the association. Names and addresses of said committee to be reported to the Recording Secretary at each annual meeting. ARTICLE XI. The Executive Committee shall be composed of the President, four Vice Presidents and Recording Secretary. ARTICLE XII. Article six of this Constitution is hereby amended so as to read: "Anv person who has resided within the limits of said counties of Antrim, Grand Traverse, Kalkaska and Charlevoix for sixteen years may become a member of this Association on subscribing to the articles of said Association and paying the membership fee as prescribed by the by-laws, but no member shall be entitled to vote or hold office unless 21 years of age.".\ ARTICLE XIII. The annual meeting of this Association shall be held on the first Wednesday of June of each year at such place as may he designated by a vote of the members present at the annual meeting the year previous, at which time the President, Secretaries and Treasurer shall each present a full written report. The officers shall be elected for the ensuing year and general business may be transacted. Several meetings may be called as the by-laws provide. BY-LAWS SECTION I. The President shall be the presiding officer at all meetings of the Association. He shall be ex-officio chairman of the Executive Committee, shall countersign all warrants drawn by the Recording Secretary upon the Treasurer for accounts that have been audited and allowed by the Executive Committee and shall perform such other duties as usually pertain to such office of such Associations. SECTION II. The Recording Secretary shall keep an accurate record of all proceedings of the Association and of the Executive Committee, in books to be provided for that purpose, and he shall record the articles of association at length in a book provided for that purpose. The said articles each member shall sign, giving place and date of birth, place and date of first residence within the limits of the territory of this Association, present residence, with blanks for date and place of death. This blank to be filled by said Secretary at the death of any member. He shall record and safely keep all papers, documents and material that may belong to said Association. He shall draw all warrants on the Treasurer and shall take and preserve proper vouchers for accounts paid. He shall perform such other duties as the Association by vote may require or the Executive Committee may direct. SECTION III. The Treasurer shall have custody of all the moneys and funds of the Association, shall safely keep the same, shall pay all warrants drawn on him by the Recording Secretary and countersigned by the President, shall keep a full account of all receipts and disbursements and shall make a full report thereof at each annual meeting and at all other times when required to do so by the Executive Committee, shall give bond to said Association in such sum and with such securities as the Executive Committee may require. SECTION IV. The Executive Committee shall have the general management of the affairs of this Association in pursuance of the articles of association, the by-laws, the votes and resolutions of said Association. They may call extra or special meetings of the Association at such time and place and for such purpose as they may deem advisable (not inconsistent with the articles of association), first giving not less than one month's notice of the same by publishing in one or more newspapers within the said counties. The Association may by vote direct the time and place of holding one or more social gatherings annually. Notice of the same snall be published as before provided. SECTION V. The Corresponding Secretary or Historian at Large shall conduct all correspondence of said Association and be the organ of communication between the Association and the County Historians, and shall perform such other duties as may be assigned to him by a vote of said Association or by direction of the Executive Committee. SECTION VI. County Historians shall be the local organs of this Association. With them rests the success in collections for the Association, of books, pamphlets or papers containing incidents of the early history of these counties, incidents of pioneer life, relics and curiosities of any kind. SECTION VII. The Vice Presidents shall assist the President at all meetings and in the absence of the President at any meeting one of the Vice Presidents shall preside. They are expected to be especially active in their respective counties in promoting the objects of this Association. SECTION VIII. Vacancies in any of the offices maybe filled by the Executive Committee, to serve the unexpired term. SECTION IX. No officer of this Association shall receive any pecuniary compensation for his or her services. SECTION X. Each member of this Association shall pay to the Treasurer a membership fee of onehalf dollar and annual dues of fifty cents, due after January 1, 1884. The first original poem "A Vision," that was written in the Grand Traverse region was published in the Grand Traverse Herald February 4, 1859. It was written at Elk Rapids by Rev. D. R. Latham, the pioneer Methodist minister, who organized the first Methodist class in Traverse City April 11, 1858. He wrote several articles including this poem for the Herald which were signed "Rambler." A VISION It was night around Grand Traverse Bay and the bracing northern breeze Swept wildly through the forest aisles and the lofty maple trees; In pensive mood I wandered forth in the moonlight clear and cold To meditate, where the brumal waves sonorous music rolled. And as I gazed at the twinkling stars in yonder boundless blue, Where the silver moon cut the snowy mist which her endless path lay through, While Nature seemed to hold commune for awhile with Nature's God, A sprite drew near to the sandy beach as it on the waters trod. Then striking the earth with a magic wand she bade a vision rise Of cities and towns, and rural scenes, before my wondering eyes The sound of coming footsteps, heard in the corridors of time, Echoed through the spirit chambers of my soul in a voice sublime. I heard the axe of the pioneer ring out in the dense old wood, And soon 'mid the charred and massive stumps a pretty village stood; The click of sharp-toothed saws I heard as the board and plank were torn From the native pine, by ruthless hands, and away to market borne. The school-boy's laugh seemed low and far, like the sound of busy bees, As home he hied through woodlands wild and the green and branching trees. A voice unearthly echoed shrill, I turned to behold the source, And saw approach the steamy breath of the tireless iron horse. I heard the hum of the imigrant and the Anglo-Saxon's tread, And cities stood where the wigwam erst had covered the red man's head. Each lofty tree now seemed a spire or a smoking chimney top Where the engine labored with iron arms in a huge machinist's shop. And then in my vision I gazed again where the Boardman river laves Its crystal waters clear and cool in the wild Grand Traverse waves. The gaslight gleamed-for I thought 'twas night-and the sound of busy feet Was heard as they passed with hurried steps along the crowded street. And the Newsboys's voice with nasal twang, as he entered the well-filled car, With the latest news "by telegraph," "direct from the seat of war," Called out "Will you have a paper, sir? The Herald," as thus he said, I sought to obtain a copy, but that moment the vision fled. -Rambler. HON. PERRY HANNAH Pioneer of 1851 The name of Perry Hannah has been synonymous with Traverse City and the Grand Traverse Region. He was born in Erie County, Pa, September 22, 1824, the second son of L. and Anna Hannah. They were farmers and on the death of the mother in 1827, the father came to Port Huron and afterward to St. Clair where he died in 1862. When he was 13 years old Perry joined his father in Michigan assisting him in the lumbering operations in which he was engaged. From his 18th to his 21st year he was in the employ of John Wells in the dry goods trade in Port Huron. In 1846 he went to Chicago and was in the employ of Jacob Beidler in the lumber business. By the aid of his employer he became the senior partner of Hannah, Lay & Co. In 1852 Perry Hannah was married to Miss Anna Flint, who died in 1898, leaving two daughters and one son. Hattie, wife of J. F. Keeney, Julius T., who married Elsie Raff, and Claribel, wife of Geo. W. Gardner. Mr. Hannah's subsequent career is shown in the history of the firm which appears in the pages of this work. He died August 13, 1904. HON. A. TRACY LAY Pioneer of 18.51 The part Hon. A. Tracy Lay has played in the building of Traverse City and the Grand Traverse region is history. Born in Batavia, Genesee County, New York, June 18, 1825, he attended school there until he was sixteen years old, when he began work as clerk in a country store. In 1849, he went to Chicago, and next year engaged in the lumbering business at the corner of Jackson and Canal streets, and at this time formed the partnership with Perry Hannah, that continued until the latter's death. In 1853, assisted by a civil engineer named Whelpley, Mr. Lay laid out the town of Traverse City, and thus became the virtual founder of this prosperous municipality. In the same year was affected the segregation and formal organization of Grand Traverse County. At the time Mr. Lay and Mr. Hannah came toTraverse City, an arrangement was made whereby each would devote six months of the year to their interests here, and the balance in Chicago, where they maintained their homes. This arrangement was pursued for some time, but was finally abandoned. Nevertheless, Mr. Lay frequently visited Traverse City until five years ago, when he made his last visit. His health has not since permitted of the long trip. He married at Batavia, N. Y., February 20, 1855, Miss Katherine Smith, daughter of Rev. Lucius Smith of the Episcopal church. Mr. and Mrs. Lay had four daughters-the two living are Olive, wife of the late Col. Chas. A. H. McCauley, U. S. A., and Katherine, wife of R. Floyd Clinch. Mrs. Lay died February 27, 1907. Mr. Lay died March 19, 1918. 10 () L D S E T T L E R S () F 1' H E SQUAW POINT At the mouth of Boardman River, Traverse City, where the Indians camped on their way to the huckleberry plains. INDIAN AND PIONEER LIFE By Minnie WUat Nicholsonl Tracing the occupancy of Grand Traverse region, we find, in an account of the traditions of the Indians told by Chief Mac-a-de-pe-nassv, who has visited at our house on many occasions, that murder in cold blood among the Indians was rare before they knew the plague of firewater; the only instance extant in this state being at the Straits of Mackinac. A foolish young Ottawa, while in dispute over his nets, stabbed a Chippewa. The latter tribe was so incensed over the outrage that a bloody war was threatened. After many councils, the Chippewas demanding bloodshed, and the Ottawas desiring compromise, the matter was finally settled by the Ottawas ceding a desirable part of their country to the Chippewas for a vast hunting ground. This seemed to appease the wrath of the Chippewas, and the district now known as our Grand Traverse Region was the tract given by this treaty. All rivers and streams in the Lower Peninsula, in which to trap beaver, mink, otter, and muskrat, were also ceded. A noted Chippewa Chief, We-we-gen-deby, was the first settler in this tract; this w as about 250 years ago. One day as he was roaming the forests of the newly acquired hunting grounds he discovered a shining copper kettle nearly imbedded in the roots of a tree. It had a bright spot on the bottom as though it had never been used, and was so large that a whole deer or bear could be cooked in it. The Chief gazed in awe upon it as direct from some mighty Manitou, and gathered his people to the place where it was discovered, in this way founding the first settlement. This manitou-au-kick, or god-kettle, as it was called, was kept as a sacred relic to the tribe and was securely hidden in a little-frequented part of the forest where it remained, being brought forth only for sacred feasts, as it was supposed to have been made by some deity who presided over this particular region. The kettle was of peculiar build, having neither rim or bail, showing that it was not of Indian manufacture and dated back to some pre-historic race. When the Indians of this region became OF T HE GRAND TRAVERS E REGION 11 civilized they began using this manitou-au-kick more commonly, the awe surrounding it having somewhat lessened, it was used for boiling maple sugar. A rim and bail were added in 1840 at the Government blacksmith shop at Old Mission, now a pretty summer resort about eighteen miles from Traverse City on the peninsula. My father remembers seeing this magic kettle in his boyhood days at Old Mission. In the County of Emmet was a small tribe known as the Prairie or Mushco-desh Indians. They were of Algonquin stock, were peaceable and never known to go on the war path. The Ottawas were friends of this tribe, in fact they called themselves brothers, but through the love of war the Ottawas came to be condemned by this little tribe. The noted Ottawa Chief, Saw-ge-maw, when on one of his western war trips met with great disaster; many of his warriors were killed, and on returning home they approached a Mush-co-desh village in a canoe. Saw-ge-maw said to his few remaining warriors, "Let us take our sad news to our relatives, the Mush-co-desh." So, as they approached the shore they began an unearthly wailing or dirge of the warriors. When the Mush-co-desh heard it, instead of joining in sympathy, they thought it a good time to show the Ottawas how they regarded their marauding expeditions so they rolled up ashes in leaves and threw at the grief-stricken Ottawas. The most terrible battle ever fought in this region was the outcome. Tradition says that this was the greatest slaughter or massacre that the Ottawas ever committed. The place where the doomed village stood is now known by an opening in the dense forest near Cross Village. The result of this battle was almost the extinction of the Mush-co-desh, thirty or fifty thousand in number, and a firmer hold by the Ottawas on the region. There soon came to be permanent settlements at Cross Village, Middle Village and Harbor Springs, all within sixty five miles of Traverse City; besides wigwams singly and in groups, scattered at intervals all along the shore. Old orchards and gardens are still in existence on the peninsula in our bay, also at the little resort, Omena, twenty-five miles from here, at Norwood and Leland, about the same distance. Fruit trees of this early planting are now found in the young forests, relics of a race that is disappearing. The Indian built his gardens on the high lands back of his village and raised corn, pumpkins, beans and potatoes. Some wild fruits were cultivated and the apple seed he obtained from the Jesuits. Some of these trees I have seen are sturdy old landmarks, though their fruit-bearing days are over. The quaint villages were made up of dwellings of various sizes and shapes; the most substantial consisting of a frame of cedar poles covered with cedar bark. Some of these were fifty or sixty feet long, and places for three fires. Then there were the lighter dwellings consisting of frames of poles covered with mats, some cone-shaped and some convex at the top. The mats were made ten to twelve feet long, of long slender leaves of the cat-tail flag. They were often used as traveling tents, being light and easy to carry in expeditions. In the woods, even in winter the Indians sometimes lived in temporary wigwams of evergreen boughs. The houses were windowless, the fire being built on the ground in the center, furnishing light and warmth. If the lodge was long, these fires were built in rows, holes in the roof serving as a chimney. A raised platform covered with elaborately colored woven mats along the sides of the room, was used as a seat during the day and a sleeping place at night. Some of these mats were beautifully ornamented in colors and were made of rushes from shallow lakes, woven together with twine made from the bark of the slippery-elm or basswood and were about six to eight feet long by four feet wide. Though the Red Man hunted at all times, winter was the season best adapted to: the pursuit; then a greater part of the population left the villages and scattered through the dense forests along our chains of lakes, embarking OLD SETTr, E RS OF T HE in canoes. Several families had their winter camping grounds at Boardman Lake, within the present limits of Traverse City. The women remained here while the hunters went into the forest solitudes bringing back the spoils of the chase several times during the winter. The hunting camps were always on the banks of river or lake. While her brave was in the depths of the forest and the cold wind shrieked through the fir trees, the busy squaw wove the rush and corn husk mats for her home. She tanned the deerskins and shaped them into clothing for her family; she cured the soft rich furs for rugs and wraps, plaited splint baskets and rolled the wild hemp on her thigh and twisted it into twine for fish nets. She dressed the game and smoked the venison her Indian brave brought back to the lodge, and she carried her papoose on her back wherever she went. It was considered a disgrace for the Indian to perform menial labor. The wife was expected to do all that was necessary for his comfort and pleasure, leaving him free to hunt and fish and battle with his enemies. There were many trails throughout the dense forest in this section, in fact, those were the only roads in the early days. I have heard pioneers tell of the time when, to follow one of these trails, they threw themselves from one side of the horse to the other to escape the rough bark of the trees, so winding were they. It is said that they were marked by bending down the branches of the young trees and tying them with hemp cord until the trees grew in this contorted fashion. The southern tribes are said to trace their trails by the heavy vines which they weave into the forms of serpents. On this street, almost across from the Methodist Church is one of those contorted trees, and further up the street is another that marked a trail to Grand Rapids. There was also a prominent trail along the river bank, just back of this church which followed the river and then struck off into the dense forest. When the white man first visited the Indians in their winter homes, they were surprised at their social customs. They were fond of visiting, and it was the aim of each family to excel the others in spreading the finest feasts. If one brave was more successful than his neighbor in bringing home game, or fish, he prepared a feast to which everyone in the village was invited, the meal was prolonged with cheerful conversation and stories of personal adventure; the women listened but took no part. After the feast they went to their lodges leaving the men to finish with a quiet smoke. Often as the kettle boiled over the cheerful fire, wild stories were told of necromancy and witchcraft, men transformed to beasts and beasts to men, of malignant sorceresses dwelling among the lonely isles of spell-bound lakes, and evil manitous lurking in the woods. To the Indian all nature was instinct with deity; the sun was a god and the moon was a goddess. Conflicting powers of good and evil ruled the universe. Our Bible story of the ark is among their traditions, the ark being a huge canoe. Sometimes in the evening about the fire, weird dances would be indulged in; medicine dances, fire dances, corn dances accompanied by frightful noises and beating on bark and skin drums. One of their spring feasts and merrymalings was called the Sweetwater dance, held in the maple grove in the spring before the trees were tapped for sap. It was a religious as well as social festival. Prayer was offered for an abundant flow of sap and success in gathering and boiling it. The Indians are very fond of maple sugar, and made quite an industry of preparing it. I shall have little time to dwell upon the language of the Ottawas and Chippewas. It is simple, having few forms; instead of many words, prefixeiand suffixes are used, making the words appear long and the language compls GRAND TRAVERSE REGION 13 cated. Some words are used as adjectives as well as adverbs, such as "mino," good, right or well. As a child I remember our Indians always with a blanketed head and moccasined feet, with their bags of basswood bark fibre strapped across the forehead, selling baskets and speaking not a word of English. Now they come dressed as the white men bringing their baskets to the merchants and speaking good English. One misses the picturesqueness of the old ways, but the advance is not only in dress, it is in the mind as well and means enlightenment. DEVELOPMENT OF THE POSTAL SYSTEM The earliest date in regard to mail service in this region is found in the diaries of Rev. George N. Smith, a Congregational minister who arrived at the Grand Traverse region June, 1849, when under date of July 2, writes of the first ehtry of mail. "John Campbell, the government blacksmith of Old Mission, accompanied by his son-in-law, H.'K. Cowles, arrived at the Ottawa mission, conducted by Mr. Smith at Waukazooville (Northport) with mail consisting of two letters and the religious paper "The Evangelist" and "The Youth's 'abinet," evidently the first name of "The Youth's Companion." They came across the bay from the mission conducted by Rev, Peter Dougherty and returned the same way carrying two letters, one to the "Evangelist," and the other a corrected weather report for the Smithsonian Institute at Washington. These letters were forwarded from Old Mission to Mackinaw and from there to their destination by way of Saginaw." August 27, nearly two months later, mail again arrived from Mackinaw by boat direct by Indian messenger "Ponite," bearing a letter of instruction to the missionary informing the settlements that the coming Indian payment by the government would be made at Mackinaw. Heralds were sent out to carry the message to all Ottawas of the region. No mention of mail is made again until October 6, when Mr. Smith went by boat to Old Mission where they held a meeting of the citizens "to petition for a postoffice and for the organization of a town." Mail did not arrive in the north again until Joseph Thacker arrived May 3, 1850, with several letters, returning May 7 for Detroit with the outgoing mail. The following day Chief Shob-wa-sung arrived with one letter. Mail arrived at long intervals until December 11, 1850, when Rev. Smith settled the postoffice bill for the past year, found the whole $4.01. Had previously paid $1.20, so paid in settlement $2.81. Took receipt for $4.00. "Left $2.00 with John Campbell to send to the Youth's Cabinet for the current year." Little mail arrived in the region in the winter of 1851 until the first of April through the unfaithfulness of the contractor at Saginaw. Mr. Whitcher brought this mail and received $2 toward carrying it the past winter and 20 cents for two letters brought at this time. Now the mail began straggling in by messenger and by vessels entering the bay, among which were the Merrill of Northport, the Arrow, Capt. Michael Fitzgerald of Old Mission, the Venus, Capt. Peter Nelson, the Yankee of Mackinaw, and the Cherokee, of Racine, Wis. The Michigan, the first steamer to enter the bay, came April 14, 1851, and brought much news from the outside world. The first mails were brought from Mackinaw and-probably the first man to distribute mail in the Grand Traverse region was Lewis Miller at Old Mission. The postoffice was not formally established until 1851, when W. R. Stone of Old Mission was appointed the first postmaster with no salary, the location being in the little log house where he lived with his family, the mail being kept in a raisin box nailed to the wall. 14 OLD SETTLERS OF THE The mail carrier at first was an Indian who was taken by boat across the bay to a point north of Elk Rapids, from which place he took his northerly jaunt of a hundred miles. On his return he built a monster bonfire to signal his safety, and the postmaster then made arrangements to go across after him. There were no postage stamps, the carrier receiving 25 cents per letter directly from the writer. William Davenport, of Mackinaw Island, was one of the later mail carriers, his route being between his island home and this postoffice at Grand Traverse, a trip being made every two weeks. His outfit for the winter trip consisted of four large hound dogs and a toboggan sledge, capable of carrying heavy loads. A stop was always made over night at Beaver Island when Lake Michigan was frozen over, where crowds greeted the messenger to hear news of the outside world. In the spring of 1852 a squad of twenty Indians with the same number of dogs came from the upper peninsula on their way to Croton 120 miles south of Grand Traverse, where they were to get the U. S. mail accumulated there for them during the winter. They'returned past the post of the Grand Traverse region, the Indians on snow shoes walking in single file ahead of the dog trains so that the progress of the dogs might be made easy. From six to eight dogs were harnessed to a sledge in tandem style upon which were strapped the mail bags and supplies. As a precautionary measure one trustworthy Indian walked behind the train to see that all was well. Ann Dakin, a servant in the boarding house of Hannah, Lay & Co., was a visitor at her home at Old Mission at the time and to her fell the lot of bringing back the long-sought mail. Fully one hundred pounds were strapped to her back with which she walked alone to Traverse City. In the winter of 1852-3 Mr. A. T. Lay made a trip to Washington and was successful in obtaining a postoffice at the head of the bay. The name at Old Mission was Grand Traverse. In consultation with the postoffice department it was decided to change the name of the Grand Traverse office to Old Mission and cut off Grand and add City to Traverse and call the one at the head of the bay Traverse City. The mail arriving now came from the south instead of from the north, Indian "Jake" Ta-pa-sah packing it over the Indian trail on foot, Mr.Lay taking the first year's contract for $400 per year. Before the expiration of the year the increase in mail nearly doubled and Hugh McGillis was engaged to carry by the aid of a horse-he cutting the first road from here to Herring creek on the lake shore road. The road from the south led along the lake shore, past White Hall, Ludington, Manistee to Sleeping Bear point, thence through the woods connecting with the road made by Hugh McGillis. Dr. D. C. Goodale, who arrived in April, was appointed the first postmaster with Henry D. Campbell assistant. In 1861 a change of administration caused a corresponding change in the postoffice and Henry D. Campbell succeeded to the office. Chas. H. Marsh succeeded H. D. Campbell. Others will be mentioned later. For four years previous to the opening of the G. R. & I. railroad from Big Rapids Henry D. Campbell undertook the herculean task of transporting the bulky pouches and freight and passenger traffic from Big Rapids to Traverse City, ninety-six miles away. William F. Harsha drove the stage from Big Rapids every day for two years. He was succeeded by his brother John G. Harsha, who drove the stage from Cadillac to Traverse City for a number of years. Among the drivers of this famed stage route were William Newman, Jerome Schell and William Durr. The following is a complete list of the local postmasters from 1853: Dr. D. C. Goodale, H. D. Campbell, Chas. H. Marsh, Rev. H. P. Barker, -S. C. Fuller, Thos. T. Bates, M. E. Haskell, E. L. Sprague, George W. Raff; A. 'V. Friedrich, Geo. W. Raff, 0, P. Carver, Frank Friedrich, Emanuel Wilhelm. G R A N D T R A V EPR S E k E O I O N EMANUEL WILHELM MYRON E. HASKELL Postmaster Assistant Postmaster THE TRAVERSE CITY POSTOFFICE Prior to 1850, the region north of the Muskegon river was an unbroken wilderness with but one postoffice, located at what is now known as Old Mission. The nearest office to the south was at Croton, on the Muskegon river, a distance of 120 miles, and to the north the nearest office was located at Mackinaw and more than 100 miles had to be covered in order to reach this point. Mail was transported by Indians over Indian Trails from Croton to Old Mission and Mackinaw and so it was very irregular and uncertain, particularly during the winter season. The Traverse City Post Office was established in 1853, with semi-monthly mail service; the late Dr. D. C. Goodale was appointed Postmaster and the first U. S. Mail received consisted of seven letters and a few newspapers. However the office began to grow until in 1872 to 1874 when two clerks were required to take care of the increased business, with Mr. S. C. Fuller presiding as Postmaster. Mr. Myron E. Haskell soon made his appearance as clerk in the office and it was not long before it became apparent to the Postmaster that Mr. Haskell could handle about all the work, and so he let him do it and gave the other clerk a long vacation. About this time there were seven stage routes going out of here to such places as Northport, Empire, Glen Haven, Elk Rapids, Old Mission, Frankfort, Cheboygan, etc., and during two and a half years Mr. Haskell opened every pouch of mail that was received and closed every pouch that was dispatched, working from 5 a. m. until 10 or 11 at night. The gross receipts of the office were about $4000 per year at that time and it may be said that this was the foundation upon which was constructed a business that developed from year to year until it has reached its present proportions. The Traverse City Post Office at the present time is doing a business of over $44,000 annually, and so holds the position of "First Class" with 16 OLD SETTLERS OF THE twenty-one other post offices in the state of Michigan. Recently this has been made the "Central Accounting Office" for Grand Traverse County and a depository for this whole northern region which includes over sixty of the smaller offices and the business is constantly increasing. There are twenty-eight employed in this office at present with a monthly pay roll of more than $3000. One of the oldest employes is Mr. Haskell who has been identified with the office for more than a quarter of a century, and many people would feel that they had not been in the building if he did not make his appearance, and to his credit may be said that he is one of the best posted men on Postal Laws and Regulations in the State of Michigan. The constantly increasing business of the office is being well taken care of by the present postmaster, Emanuel Wilhelm, who is one of our old settlers and constant booster for the Queen City of the North. "JAKE" TA-PA-SAH Indian Jake was the first mail carrier from the south to Traverse City in 1863, being in the employ of Mr. A. T. Lay, who had the contract for this year-"Jake packing it over the Indian trail on foot from Croton, a small town in Newago County on the Muskegon river. PIONEERS AND PIONEERING By S. E. Wait Old Mission seemed to be the objective point for the first white settlers, there being earlier and more convenient communication between that point and Mackinaw by vessels sailing between the two places. The first white settlers were Rev. Peter Dougherty and Rev. John Fleming, who landed in Mission Harbor in May, 1839. They had spent the previous winter in Mackinaw and had come to establish a mission for the Presbyterian Board. There were no GRAND TRAVERSE RE G ION visible signs of the presence of man save a few bark wigwams in a narrow break in the fringe of the forest. Only one Indian was found in the village, the rest of the band being encamped at the mouth of the river on the opposite side of the bay. A signal made with a column of smoke by the Indian had the effect of bringing over a canoe full of young men who came to inquire what they wanted. On finding that the errand was to establish a mission for the purpose of giving religious teaching they said the head Chief would come in a few days and then they would get an answer. On arrival of the old Chief Ish-qua-go-na-ba a council was held and it was decided to establish a mission. The location was first fixed on the south side of Elk River, but after consulting the wishes of the young chief Agosa and the principal men of the tribe at Mission Harbor they were convinced that the harbor was a more eligible site for the mission. An unexpected blow fell on their mutual plans. A messenger came from Mackinaw with word that Mr. Fleming's wife had died suddenly at that place. Mr. Fleming with the four men who came with him, immediately embarked in their boat for Mackinaw. He never returned to the Mission. With the exception of a party of surveyors at work east of Elk and Torch Lakes Mr. Dougherty was now the only white settler in the country. About the 20th of June Henry R. Schoolcraft, Indian agent, arrived in a small vessel, accompanied by Robert Graverat as his interpreter, and Isaac George as Indian blacksmith. Arrangements were immediately made for opening a school with Mr. Dougherty's interpreter, Peter Greensky as teacher. The school was located in a little bark wigwam that the Indians had vacated for Mr. Dougherty's use. In the fall John Johnson arrived with a yoke of oxen as Indian farmer. In the fall of 1841, besides Indian wigwams there were five log buildings at the mission, the school house and four dwellings. The dwellings were occupied by Mr. Dougherty, missionary; Henry Bradley, mission teacher; John Johnson, Indian farmer; and David McGulpin, assistant farmer. As regards race, the little community, the only representative of Christian civilization in the heart of the savage wilderness was somewhat mixed. John Johnson was a half Indian with a white wife; McGulpin was a white man with an Indian wife; all the others except Greensky, the interpreter, were whites. It was at this time that Joseph Dame and Lewis Miller arrived. Mr. Dame had secured the appointment of Indian farmer to succeed John Johnson. Lewis Miller resolved to accompany him, more for the novelty of the thing than from any definite purpose, with reference to the future. With them came Mrs. Dame and their children, Eusebius F., Almira and Mary. Olive M. came the following year. About 1842 a more commodious dwelling and a mission church was commenced by Mr. Dougherty. The dwelling was the first frame building erected in the Grand Traverse country. The church had solid walls built after the Canadian French style of hewn cedar timbers, laid one upon an other and kept in place by the ends being fitted into groves in upright posts. The church is owned by the Methodist Episcopal Society and is still used as a house of worship. Among the earlier settlers, not conneeted with the mission or agency. were Lewis Miller, Alexander Paul, H. K. Cowles, John Swaney and Martin S. Wait. By 1850 the little group of wigwams and log cabins had grown to a village of considerable size. The Indians had generally abandoned their early style of wigwams, and were living in houses built of hewn logs and whitewashed on the outside. Seen from a distance the village presented a pretty and inviting appearance. According to their original custom, the Indians lived in the village and cultivated their gardens some distance away. In November, 1850 my father's family arrived at the Mission, having left Mackinaw a few days previous on the schooner Arrow, which had been making weekly trips between the two ports. The vessel was so laden with household goods that her rigging was tied full of chairs and the lighter articles that could not be stowed on deck or in the hold. 18 OLD SETTLERS OF THE We rented a house for the winter and the next spring purchased the residence of Daniel Rodd, the interpreter, which remained in possession of the family until 1884. A project of removing the Indians beyond the Mississippi was at one time seriously considered by the Government. They cultivated small patches of ground, from one acre to six. They had no title to these. The terms of the treaty by which they were to retain their lands had expired. The white settlers wanted the lands, and the question arose what to do with the Indians. A deputation sent to examine their proposed new home in the West reported unfavorably. They determined not to be removed. At this juncture the adoption of the revised State Constitution of 1850 made citizens of all civilized persons of Indian descent not members of any tribe. They could purchase land of the Government as citizens. The land on the Peninsula was not yet in market. That on the west shore was. By the advice of Mr. Dougherty several families agreed to set aside a certain amount from their next annual payment for the purchase of lands. The Indians on the Peninsula held possession of considerable portions of the lands but could give no legal title. They could, however, sell their possessory rights, and the whites recognizing the eligibility of the location for agricultural pursuits became purchasers, taking the chances of obtaining a title from the Government at a future time. NEW MISSION Seeing that the Indian community at the mission would finally be broken up Mr. Dougherty concluded to change the location of the mission itself. Accordingly purchase was made of an eligible tract of land suitable for a farm and a manual labor school on the point near the place now called Omena, in Leelanau County, to which he removed early in the spring of 1852. This was now the New Mission and the other has ever since been known as Old Mission. The New Mission point had been occupied by a band of Indians called by the name of their chief Shawb-wah-sun's band, some of whose gardens were included in the tract purchased by Mr. Dougherty. The tribe known a s the Pa-shaw-ba Indians, who were located on the east side of the peninsula, about half way up the East Bay, moved at this time to a point on the west shore of West Bay, about half way between New Mission and Suttons Bay, and a Catholic Mission was established there. Father Mrack, who was afterwards bishop of the Northern Peninsula, had charge of this Mission for a number of years. The manual labor school at New Mission was opened in the fall following the removal. The number of pupils was limited to fifty, t\venty-five of each sex. Young children were not received, except in one instance, the rule was suspended in favor of two homeless orphans. When received into the school, the pupils were first washed and clothed; the common clothing of both sexes consisted of coarse but decent and serviceable material. The boys were employed on the farm, the girls in housework and sewing. At five o'clock in the morning the bell rang for all to rise. At six o'clock it called all together for worship. Soon after worship breakfast was served, the boys sitting at one table, the girls at another. After breakfast all repaired to their daily labor and worked till half past eight, when the school bell called them all to the school room. At the time of the war of the rebellion the Board became financially embarrassed and the work of the mission was discontinued. In 1868 Mr. Dougherty sold the farm consisting of 568 acres, 100 of which were improved, to Valentine C. Mills of Iowa, for $5000. In 1883 the property was purchased by a party of Cincinnati gentlemen who proposed to improve it for a summer resort, rebuilding the mission house to be three stories and a GRAN D TRAV tkS E RAV GI5E N 19 mansard roof and to be 60x76 feet in size. It is 113 feet above the bay, seventy six feet from ground to top of cupola, contains thirty-five sleeping rooms, two parlors, spacious halls, verandas, dining room, etc. PIONEER WEDDING The pioneer wedding was that of Miss Olive Dame of Old Mission, to Mr. Ansel Salisbury of Wisconsin, in the fall of 1842. Mr. Dougherty wished that the Indians should profit by acquaintance with the institutions of Christian civilization. Accordingly, by the consent of all parties, it was arranged that the ceremony should take place in public. At a convenient hour in the morning the little school house was filled with a mixed company of whites and Indians. The bride was in simple attire as befitted the occasion and surroundings. The Indian women in their bright shawls and beaded moccasins, and the Indian men, some of them clothed in a style only a degree or two removed from the most primitive undress, all looking gravely on apparently unmoved. The whites were dressed in their Sunday best, which, in most cases, were somewhat rusty. The marriage rite was simple and impressive. The couple departed immediately on their wedding tour in a large birch bark canoe for Mackinaw, navigated by four Innians. They remained a few days in Mackinaw then embarked on a steam boat for their home in Wisconsin. The next wedding of the pioneers was that of Lewis Miller to Miss Catherine Kiley. They were married in Mackinaw in September, 1845, took their wedding trip on the vessel, "Lady of the Lake," and after a tempestuous voyage landed at Old Mission. Their first child, Henry L. Miller, was the pioneer white child of Grand Traverse. It was discovered by the early settlers that there were extensive abandoned Indian gardens on the high lands back of where Norwood now stands. These were covered by dense grass and a bearing apple orchard. My father decided that here would be a good opportunity to get trees with which to start an orchard. Accordingly, when the school had closed in the spring of 1852, on the schooner Madeline in Bowers Harbor, he engaged her to bring the trees to Old Mission. There being no dock at the place she was obliged to anchor out some distance while the trees were brought on board with the yawl. They were set oat on our farm, grew finely aud are now the oldest trees on the peninsula. REV. GEORGE N. SMITH The pioneer of Northport was Rev. George N. Smith, a Congregational minister, who had spent two years in missionary work among the Indians of Black River, Allegan County. In 1838 a meeting of Ottawa and Chippewa Indians was called at Allegan for the purpose of talking over a scheme for their colonization. Mr. Smith was the foremost actor in the movement. He at once went to work to perfect the colonization scheme, laboring day and night, sometimes to the neglect of his family. During this time he visited different tribes of Indians, raising means wherever possible. In hunting a suitable location it became necessary to travel from the Straits of Mackinaw to the southern boundary of the state. One memorable trip was made in canoes from Allegan to Cross Village, north of Little Traverse Bay. This trip occupying a month and three days was attended with perils and dangers by land and water. The Indians finally determined to locate on Black River in Ottawa County, whither they moved in the summer of 1839. Mr. Smith also established his family there, having first erected a log house in which to live. In 1847 a colony of Hollanders settled on Black Lake in close proximity to the Indians. It seems the former encroached upon the latter to such an extent as to make it necessary for the Indians to locate elsewhere as a matter of selfprotection. So in the summer of 1849 he, with his family and forty or fifty 20 OL LD SETTLERS OF THE Indian families, removed from Black River to Grand Traverse Bay. NORTHPORT A village was laid out and called Waukazooville, after the chief Waukazoo. The name was afterward changed to Northport. Mr. Smith's position as missionary was one of responsibility and toil. He was preacher, doctor, teacher, judge and adviser-general combined. He healed their sick, settled their disputes and educated them. He was often compelled to make long trips with the Indians, leaving his family alone in the woods for weeks at a time. The other pioneers of Northport were James McLaughlin, Indian farmer, and William H. Case who came in 1849 up the coast on the schooner "Merrill" of which Mr. McLaughlin was the owner. TRAVERSE CITY The pioneers of Traverse City were Horace Boardman who came in 1847 to erect a saw mill, and Michael Gay who sailed Mr. Boardman's vessel the "Lady of the Lake." The little craft was later sent to the Manitou Islands to bring a party of employees who, it had been arranged should come as far as the islands by steamer. The passengers were Mr. Gay's young wife, then about sixteen years of age, and her four month's old baby, Mr. and Mrs. Duncan, Ann VanAmburg and several carpenters. A house was built of hewn logs near the foot of Boardman Lake and a small saw mill was built on the creek that had its sources in the hills to the south and west of the bay, across which a dam was built to raise the water to get power. A tent was constructed of some sails for the accommodation of the two married couples and girl. The single men shifted for themselves as best they could. The company lived in this manner during the summer. Immediately on the arrival of the carpenters, all hands were set to work on the mill. The "Lady of the Lake" made a trip to Manistee after plank for the flume. When the frame was ready all the white men at Old Mission and several Indians came to help raise it. Then some of the first boards were used to complete the block house which up to that time had remained unfinished. HANNAH, LAY & CO. In May, 1850, three young men in Chicago entered into partnership under the firm name of Hannah, Lay & Company for the purpose of carrying on the lumber trade. The firm opened business on the corner of Jackson and Canal streets, buying their stock by the cargo in the harbor. Early in 1851 they conceived the project of having somewhere a saw mill of their own for making lumber, thus saving to themselves the profit they were now paying the manufacturer. Falling in with Mr. Curtis, one of the mechanics who had built the Boardman mill, they obtained from him their first knowledge of the country on Grand Traverse Bay. Captain Boardman found that the mill, as managed by his son, was not profitable and concluding it would be wise to dispose of it proposed to sell it to the new firm. So Mr. Hannah, accompanied by William Morgan and Captain Boardman, after a tempestuous voyage on the little schooner Venus riding a gale of three days duration on Lake Michigan, arrived at the head of the bay to view the property. The mill was not running. On entering the house the hands were all found there amusing themselves with the game of old sledge. After shaking hands all around, Captain Boardman said to his son, "Horace, how is this that you are not running the mill." He replied, "Father, it was a little rainy today; the boys outside could not work very well and they wanted the men in the mill to make up the number for the game so I concluded to shut down for a time in order that they might have a little fun." A proposition of Captain Boardman's was accepted by the new firm by which they came into possession of his entire interest in the mill building and about two hundred acres of land. The following season a new mill run by steam power was erected on the strip of land between the river GRAND TRAVERSE RREGION 21 and the bay. Various changes took place in the growth of the firm and community, until the time when the work which naturally belongs to the church became of interest to the people. FIRST CHURCHES The first Methodist class in Traverse City was organized by Rev. D. R. Latham April 11, 1858, consisting of William Fowle, Mrs. Dr. Goodale and five others. The meetings were held in the school house which had recently been built. Mr. Latham's voluntary labors ended in the fall of 1858, at which time he was admitted to conference and appointed to the Elk Rapids circuit. He was succeeded by Rev. W. W. Johnson.. In the fall Rev. S. Steele came charged with the double relation of pastor and presiding elder. In 1862 two young men, Rev. J. H. Crum and Rev. Leroy Warren, were sent here by the Congregational Church at Oberlin, Ohio. Mr. Crum remaining here and Mr. Warren going to Elk Rapids. After three month's preaching every alternate Sunday and much pastoral visitation, the way was prepared for the organization of a church of ten members, including the pastor and his wife. Articles of faith, covenant and by-laws were agreed upon. An invitation was then extended to the one or two Congregational Churches and Congregational ministers as were in the Grand Traverse region to come in council and proceed to the service of public organization. So on the morning of February 2, 1863, an audience of about fifty assembled in the little village school house and listened attentively to the services conducted by Rev. Charles Bailey of Benzonia, and in the afternoon to a sermon by Rev. George Thompson, also of Benzonia; then came forward and asserted to the articles of faith and the covenant the following persons: Rev. J. H. and Mrs. J. H. Crum, Leroy C. Blood and Mrs. Fannie E. Blood, Amos and Mrs. Cecelia Hill, Elvin L. Sprague, Mrs. Mary Sprague and Mrs. Caroline McLeod. Rev. Leroy Warren of Elk Rapids, assisted in the services and after the administration of the communion Elvin L. Sprague was elected deacon and L. C. Blood, clerk, and the first Congregational Church of Traverse City came into existence. BENZONIA The real pioneer and instigator of Benzonia College was Rev. Charles E. Bailey of Medina, Ohio. About the year 1855 the idea of a Christian colony and college as one of the best agencies for laying a foundation for good in the world took definite shape in his mind. Later he learned that some of the people attending the ministry of the Rev. M. W. Fairfield were entertaining a similar project. A meeting was held at Mr. Bailey's house and a plan of operation agreed upon and Messrs. Bailey and Fairfield undertook to find a suitable location. After a toilsome journey of exploration through a part of Iowa they returned to Medina, when Mr. Fairfield withdrew from the enterprise. Some time later Mr. Bailey's brother John had clipped from the New York Tribune an article written by Deacon Dame describing in glowing terms the country around Grand Traverse Bay. While the Bailey brothers were discussing plans, Mr. Chauncey L. Carrier, on his way west in search of a home, called on Rev. A. D. Barber, an old school friend, who informed him of the project in which the Bailey's were engaged and induced him to join them. Mr. Carrier never became a resident of Grand Traverse country. A sincere friend of the oppressed and a lover of his country, he offered himself in their and her defence, joined the First Michigan Cavalry and laid down his life during the struggle in the rebellion. Some time after the close of the war Mr. Carrier's family became residents of Benzonia. It is not necessary for me to go into detail of the pioneering of Benzonia. It is already known of the conscientuous and careful search and investigation of different portions of Iowa, Missouri and Michigan, by Mr. Bailey and his asso 22 2 OL D S E T T ER S OF E ciates which finally terminated in the selection of this beautiful spot for the location of their homes and the Benzonia college and school fifty-six years ago. Looking back from this distance the pioneer days seem to us more full of privations, perils and struggles than they really were. Distance exaggerates them. Some one who had not been there could write up the struggles, perils and privations of the pioneers much better than I. Yet I know that it took young men and women of brain and brawn, of courage and determination to risk the outlook of labor and trial incident to the opening and clearing up of a new country. Hardships and pleasures were intimately mixed in the experiences of the pioneer. A young friend of mine, George W. Ladd, who had taught the first school at Elk Rapids and later had taken up a "forty," wrote me as follows: "This evening finds me here in my little cabin which overlooks Elk lake as it spreads its silver sheet of unrivaled beauty before me. Darkness is shutting in the scene, a huge pile of logs is on fire which affords novel music to my ear and sends gleams of light upon the giant trunks of the surrounding trees, while the shrill voice of the loon is loudly borne on the cool night air. A candle affords me a light while I attempt to trace out and follow the nice little blue lines on the white paper." It might seem a hardship but it was a pleasure to wade through the snow and tackle those lofty beech and maple trees until they came crashing down, then chip into them and split off a slab, repeat the process until they had their winter's supply of fuel. It was a pleasure to go to sleep to the song of the whip-poor-will, and rise in the morning to the music of the robin. It was a pleasure to make up a sleigh load of neighbors, go to some sugar camp and fill up on wax and hot sugar. The weekly mail was sometimes stretched out to three and four weeks. It came by way of Mackinaw. In winter over the trail. In summer by sail vessel. We used to go up to "Look-out" where we could see way down the bay and watch with intense interest the coming in sight of the little schooner. With joy we hailed the coming sail As round the point with speed The "Yankee" or the "Wah-bi-zee" Were striving for the lead, The "Madeline" and "Arrow" too, Would gladly greet our eyes As weekly trips from Mackinaw They brought us our supplies. 0, blessed are the memories Before our vision flow Of the days when we were pioneers Sixty years ago. The Indians were our fellow men Ahgosa was their chief And prominent to our memory Come names to our relief; Of Ah-ka, Ke-sis, Ke-wa-din, Sah-gun and Ge-ganse, Ke-wa-be-skum, Kah-bo-ne-ka, Pe-na-she-ge-zhik, Anse. 0, these were faithful friends of yore, No Indian was our foe In the days when we were pioneers, Sixty years ago. GRAND TRAVERSE REGION 2T Our early life was glad and free Yet dangers closed us round, But here among the grand old trees Freedom we sought and found; Oft through our dwellings wintry blasts Would rush with shriek and moan We cared not, they were rude but scrong And then they were our own. 0, free and sturdy lives we led Mid verdure or mid snow In the days when we were pioneers, Sixty years ago. But now our course of life is short And as from day to day, We're walking on with halting step And pausing by the way Another land more bright than this To our dim sight appears, And on our way to it, we'll soon Again be pioneers. And while we linger we may all A backward glance still throw To the days when we were pioneers, Sixty years ago. The second early poem, "Our Bay," was written at Elk Rapids by S. E. Wait and appeared in the Grand Traverse Herald April 8, 1859. OUR BAY Would you view a scene that's lovely, Waters deep and crystal clear; Would you see a varied landscape, Water foreground, forests near, Hills and valleys in the distance Mingling with the ether gray; If you would behold such scenery Gaze upon our beauteous Bay. Birds have sung of bay of Venice Teeming with its gondoliers, Sending forth their evening music To some fair one's list'ning ears; Lake Geneva 'mid the mountains, Bay of Biscay, seaman's dread, But, as yet, our Bay remaineth Quite unsung, almost unread. Here we see the native Indian Gliding in his light canoe, And the lofty bearing vessel Coming gallantly in view, Bringing foreign products to us, Taking our produce away, And oft we see the noble steamer Cleave the waters of our Bay. 24 OLD SETTLERS OF THE The varied shores are oft indented With harbors, spacious and secure; While villages are rising near them With energy that will endure. We see the forest fast receding In various spots along the shore The farmer's house and barn are standing Where Indian wigwams stood before. Here the Elk and Boardman rivers, (Scarce existed streams more clear) Smoothly glide along unheeding The large saw mills standing near Sending forth dolorous music Made by wheels and saws, and cranks, Forming lumber for the market From the stately forest ranks. Look from shore upon the waters When they're raging, capped with white, As the gale sweeps from the northward, Awakening the water sprite; See the close reefed vessel, ploughing Through the billowy, raging foam, Steering for some pleasant harbor As an exile to his home. And again in autumn evening When calmness reigns upon its breast And the sun's bright rays are gleaming From the portals of the west Coloring the distant tree tops With brilliant tints of golden sheen, And the etherial blue appeareth Free from clouds or fog, serene. Beauteous Bay! thy scenes are lovely, Indeed they are a charming sight, When we view thee in the daytime, Or when moon adorns the night; When thy waves are loudly roaring, Breaking on the steadfast shore, Or when calmness reigns upon thee And thy waves have ceased to roar. THE PIONEER WOMAN'S PART By Minnie Wait Nicholson Side by side with man's noble achievement down through the past years of progress went an influence quiet, yet forceful and lasting. It was Woman's Part, often a share that has achieved wonderful results, for the active work of man has been supplemented by a touch that meant encouragement in dark days, sympathy in days of hope and joy in days of realization. Possibly woman's work seemed to a casual observer a round of homely duties. In part this is true, yet these were but an integral part of her full life. The wives of our GRAND TRAVERS E R E GION pioneers were without exception women of resource and community workers of rare worth and lived lives of cheerfulness and courage during the early years of labor and privation. I could mention them by the score in our own community and in your own community you recall the names of those who may be but names to you perhaps, yet those blessed lives were lived for others and are indelible on the pages of pioneer history. Then there came an innate longing for something outside the narrow routine, a something that tended toward mental culture. Thus libraries and study clubs were formed. In our early village life it meant the birth of the Ladies' Library Association, which dates back to 1869, when eight women came at the call of Mrs. Morgan Bates, a woman of force and character, the wife of the Lieutenant Governor of Michigan. She was a woman of all others to organize and carry out such an enterprise, a woman who to abundant means and leisure added a vigorous will, courage that was never daunted and a patience that never tried. She was ready for any emergency. On one occasion a huge squash, weighing one hundred pounds, that had taken a prize at the Agricultural fair that fall was given to some one and as a joke was passed on to the Ladies' Library Association. The spirit of Mrs. Morgan Bates was equal to the occasion and she accepted it with a profusion of thanks and immediately made it up into an enormous quantity of squash pies, called a squash pie social at her home and netted the society an even twenty dollars. That year 1871, the gross receipts were $400, the best the society knew for some years, for the next year Mrs. Morgan Bates died and her helpers unused to the work almost gave up, some thought there was no use, but a few brave souls said, "No, we will not give up, we will do our best and make the association the success she would have made it." It was uphill work but they succeeded and now have a beautiful brick building of their own with about 200 members and nearly four thousand books. In the early church life as well as today the pastors' wives have taken an active part in almost every phase of church work. We read of Mrs. Steele, wife of Rev. S. Steele of Northport, starting the first Sunday School with forty pupils; that school has continued to the present time; also that she supplied the pulpit very acceptably when Mr. Steele was away. I was asking some one about Mrs. R. Hatch, wife of one of our first pastors. "Oh, she was a lovely woman," was the response. "What did she do?" I asked. "What didn't she do in those early days?" was the enthusiastic reply. That was tribute enough, and so it is with many more. The first Sunday School in Traverse City was begun in June, 1853, in the little log school house. It was under the supervision of Mr. Scofield assisted by Mrs. Dr. Goodale. Mr. Lay encouraged the enterprise by his presence and approval, and Miss Scofield, afterward Mrs. John Black, usually came with her brother, though the teaching was done by Mr. Scofield and Mrs. Goodale. There was no necessity for a numerous corps of teachers, as there were only eight pupils in the school. There were no Sunday School books or papers or singing books-nothing but the bible. It is related that on one occasion the four persons assembled at the school house and waited for the children who failed to appear. At length Mrs. Goodale proposed that her companions should wait while she go out and look for them. She found them not far off picking and eating huckleberries, their hands and faces all stained with the purple juice, in which condition she managed to gather them into the school house. On questioning the children as to what their parents knew of their doings, it come out that the latter had gone for a boat ride. At the approach of cold weather the Sunday School was closed. It was not reopened the next season on account of the absence that summer of Mr. Lay and Mr. Scofield, 26 OLD SETTLER S OF THE Sometime afterwards Mr. Lay's mother sent eighty volumes of Sunday School books to Traverse City. During my term of fourteen years as secretary of our school I have watched the changes, seen the advancement and become acquainted with the noble band of teachers, many from the public school who have given the precious Sunday hour of rest to the young life in which their interest centers. REMINISCENCES OF GRAND TRAVERSE REGION By Mrs. MJartha Gray Grand Traverse region was once holy ground. It was here the Great Manitou came down to meet and bless His children. In those shadowy dells from many a dark bosom went up a fervent prayer to the Great Spirit who had not written His laws for them on the tables of stone, but had traced them on the tables of their hearts. Here on Grand Traverse Bay occurred the awful struggle between Manabooza, the good, and his bad brother, the evil one. Manabooza was born of a virgin who descended from heaven and alighted on an island, perhaps one of the Manitous. Her name was too holy to be mentioned, she was simply called the "Woman" by the people. The Midas, (the priests,) only knew her name. She had two sons. Her second son was a mischevious spirit and sowed the evil seeds of sorrow and trouble which sprang up in the path of the people. He was finally overcome and destroyed by Manabooza the good, to the great satisfaction of the Indians. The flint rocks on the east shore (of Grand Traverse Bay are the remains of this evil spirit. There are many legends of Manabooza and his struggle with the powers of darkness personified in some visible form. In a conflict with the evil one in the form of a fish, Manabooza was swallowed and his canoe at the same time. But he, nothing daunted took his stone hammer from the canoe and pounded on the heart of the great fish which threw the fish into terrible agony and he began to make violent contortions as though he would dislodge the enemy he had swsllowed. Then Manabooza fearing he would be thrown into the water or drowned stopped up the throat of the fish with his canoe, and kept on pounding on the heart of the evil one. After a period of silence and darkness, light began to shine in and Manabooza found himself on the beach and sea gulls were picking the flesh from the dead fish to liberate him. When the sea serpent became envious of Manabooza he brought on a flood and drowned all living things, and the great Manitou creation was destroyed. Manabooza escaped by fleeing to the highest hill and climbing a tree which he was obliged to make grow four times to keep above the water. When the flood subsided Manabooza repeopled the earth by sticking arrows in the ground. His symbol was the white rabbit. The grave of this wonderful man is here in Northern Michigan on North Point near Alpena or Thunder Bay. Grand Traverse means a long, long way round and it must have seemed a long way to the first people who came over the Great Lakes and threaded the pathless wilderness guided only by chart and compass, sleeping under the everlasting stars, with giant trees for canopy while the hemlock and pine boughs furnished a soft couch whose sweet odors soothed their weary senses and refreshed them for toilsome onward march still farther from civilization. Sleeping Bear Point is on the west shore of Leelanau County. It is a huge mountain of pure white sand that has been accumulating on that point through centuries washed up by the rsstless waves of Lake Michigan and thrown upon the beach, where the winds, in turn have caught and carried it forward. It is always moving, always growing for the forces that create it are GRAND TRAVERSE REGION 27 ever in motion. Sleeping Bear was caught and imprisoned within his clasp, the giant monarchs of the forest that grew along his path. Their tops peer from the summit or along the sides at passerby as though in mute appeal for liberation. But they will never be released for Old Sleeping Bear has lain under the spell of an enchanter for centuries and will never awaken until some throes of nature arouse him from his sleeping place beside the blue water. In 1863 Northern Michigan was thrown into the market through the homestead law and from that time on its future was assured. Men began flocking into the region and upon the close of the war nearly every quarter section was taken, many of them by the "boys in blue," and my father, Elijah Stata, was one who fought and found, for a time, a home in the wilderness. He was a born pioneer. His people left Holland at the close of the Spanish wars, crossed the Atlantic and settled in New Amsterdam. A generation or two later they left New York and migrated up the Mohawk Valley. In another generation or two, the country of the Mohawk becoming too settled, they moved again, this time into Canada. Still restless and roving my father's generation started out, each taking a different direction. My father came into Michigan and owned a farm at Grand Ledge in an early day. He returned and made his home in New York for a time and there married my mother. Her parents had transmitted to their posterity the same roving inclination. They came from England, settled in Massachusetts and belonged to the Colburns, the Stowells and the Winchesters. Her grandfather was a paymaster in the Revolutionary War. They belonged to the stirring times when men were willing to lav down their lives for a good principle, to be sacrificed on the altar of the country they had chosen for the sake of freedom. My father served through the civil war and at the close went south to seek his fortune in the land that had been devastated by the War God. He found a more subtle foe lurking in the mud-beds of the Missouri River flats than ever lay in ambush or was met on the battle field. He buried a part of his family who had fallen victims to Asiatic Cholera and returned North the same year. On arriving at Chicago we took passage for Ogdensburgh and on that same steamer met a man named Johnson who was returning to Glen Arbor, having been outside to purchase supplies. He told father such glowing stories of the wealth of the wild, new country, the timber, the land for nothing, the ease in which one could become a well-to-do man that father would gladly have ended the journey at Glen Arbor but our mother would not. The next spring father returned and worked all summer for John Dorsey making fish barrels. White fish were abundant in Lake Michigan at that time in 1868. That autumn my father returned east and moved his family into Grand Traverse region. We children were delighted and happy that the change was to be made; for we like all children thought a new country and new people would bring us many things and we were not disappointed though the things brought were not expected. One sunny day in September, the Oswegatche of the Western Transportation line, Capt. Rossman in command, landed us safely on the little dock at Glen Arbor. The only business the boat had at that dock was to take on wood and leave us, together with another family. Glen Arbor was like many other things one sees on maps, a name only. A dreary stretch of pure white sand, a few cabins completely hidden by small oak and pine trees, a hotel and no guests, a small general store owned by the Northern Transportation line, and a postoffice kept by George Ray in his home, completed the whole. Here we began to hear the term "outside." Anyone not living here lived "outside." Father decided we must get the things together again and finish our journey and be in the new home before winter would be upon us. We had been stopping in Glen Arbor until mother was strong enough to take the journey of twenty-five miles to the farm that father had chosen. One beautiful morning the wagons were again brought to the door and loaded and I took my 28 OLD SETTLERS OF' THE seat by my father's side, my brother Seth rode with the man who drove the other team, and we began that toilsome journey. The country was rough and hill upon hill rose before us. The patient horses kept climbing higher and higher. When we had gone ten miles we came to the crest of the hills that formed the background to Glen Arbor, and here we stopped to rest and feed our horses and eat our lunch. From here, the view was magnificent. Stretching away over miles and miles the country and great lakes lay before us and at the foot of the hills lay an inland lake nine miles across which was called Glen Lake. It was only one-half mile from Lake Michigan and men had planned to open a channel so that vessels could seek a safe harbor there from storms that were frequently occurring on the great lake. Away over Lake Michigan we could see the great Manitous so far away that they could be seen only on a clear day. And to the northward lay old "Sleeping Bear." It was late in the day when we came to a place where father stopped the horses. "Now," said he, "it is only two and one-half miles home and you two will run through the woods and get there much sooner than we can by the wagon road. Seth, be sure and follow the blazed trees and do not lose the trail, for if you do, you will perish in the woods." Father had six miles to make by road so Seth took my hand and we started on the trail. Just as night fall was upon us, we emerged from the forest into a tiny clearing and Seth said, "This is home." There was a pond, a tiny dark pool, the forest leaves lying deep to the water's edge. Across the pond stood a log cabin and at the end of the pond another log cabin, and still another log building stood on a hill, the strangest looking building I had ever seen, just a square tower whose top was surmounted by a shaft with four great arms outspread. The solemn stillness of everything had begun to impress me and we were thankful that we were to have neighbors at least, for a family lived in a house at the end of the lake, and at the other was to be our future home. We crossed to the cabin. Seth lifted the wooden latch and we entered. The old man whom we had met the year before and through whose influence we had been brought to our present condition came in in the evening. It was his son who lived in the same clearing and was to be our neighbor. His name was Lije Johnson and his wife's name was "Marthy." "Lije" and "Marthy" it was from the beginning. Everyone was called by his first name. Older men were called "Old Men." The "Old Man" had married a second woman and she had left him and gone to her relatives "outside." He was going in the spring. Father had bought out the old man's improvement and that was how we had even this small beginning in the wilderness. It was the first day of November when mother arrived and not a day too soon for the second day the snow began to fall gently, silently, without any warning whatever. It snowed fifty-one days, then the sun shone out one day only, then the snow began again as it had done it the beginning, never any effort, never any noise, no sign of storm, no wind, no roar, no rush, just gently, silently fell; and mother sat in the cabin and wept all the time. We children did not run out to play for there was no place to play, nothing to play with and we could only stand by the two little windows and watch the snow fall and wonder if spring would ever come and it was not Christmas yet, that joyous time for children, a time lost to us now, and worst of all we had no books. It was about Christmas time that mother decided to let Seth, now a healthy boy of seventeen, go to Glen Arbor to work. The men were on the trail coming and going every week and the trail being through our clearing they were sure to stop both ways and tell stories. Father was a genial man and enjoyed seeing them, and mother's bread was good and the men were sure to get some thick slices if they were coming in from Glen Arbor. The walk of twenty-five miles was enough to sharpen any man's appetite. We had an GRAND TRAVERSE REGION 29 abundance of food for the first year and mother dispensed it with a generous hand and the men were sure to stop. These men seeing Seth, a, robust, rollicking youth just springing into manhood thought he would enliven the camp and they persuaded mother to let him go. He could earn some clothing and his living, at least, and that would be of future use. The men declared he would have work for good and earnest by another winter and the present work would initiate him. Seth's bundle was made ready and on Monday in company with three men he started over the trail. In coming and going they always had a company of three or more and walked single file. The first breaking the path for the rest, always with his eyes on the blazed trees. When he became weary he fell out and dropped behind and the next man took the lead, and so on. Seth being the boy, fell in the rear and the path was a blessing, considering the heavy bundle, his youth and the twenty-five miles. By the first of February the snow was so deep all traveling was done on snow shoes and the men came over the trail carrying as much provision as they were able to "back" home. Money was not to be had in large quantities at Glen Arbor and if they had received all money, supplies were not nearer to them than Traverse City or Glen Arbor. Everything at Glen Arbor was under the control of the Northern Transportation Company and good serviceable clothing and common staples could be obtained in exchange for work performed. But prices were high at the close of that awful Civil War, tea two dollars a pound; pork and sugar twenty-five cents a pound; flour eighteen dollars a barrel, and after the men had chopped cord wood to earn the necessities of life, and then carried them home on their backs twenty-five miles they thought that they were doubly earned and that they had paid a high price tor them. In the month of March the men came home to make maple sugar and Seth came too, and doing as the rest did, he brought all he could carry. and that was a large piece of salt pork. He had earned his living, some good stout clothes and had had enough left to purchase the pork. He had cut a hole through the tough rind, fastened a stout string to it and was draging it through the snow behind him. The cord wood camps were broken up. The men had come home. The sun shone out once more and when the days grew a little warmer the maple sap began to run up the trees and the sugar-making was on. There was another strange thing in this new country that same spring worth recording. The people had told us of the pigeons and -how they came there every year to nest, and that they killed them for food. They had even gone into their nesting places and taken the squabs by the sackful and told what fine eating they were. We had thought that these stories might have some truth but were not prepared for the deluge that came upon us. As soon as the buds began to swell and weather to grow warm they came by the millions. I have seen flocks fly so low and so thick that Seth atctually'knocked them down with a stick. We finally did not try to shoot them-it was a waste of powder and shot. Once Seth killed nineteen at a single shot by firing into a flock that were flying through the clearing. So we put up the gun and set some traps by the little pond where they came down to drink and caught all we could use. They nested just a few miles from where we were located and Seth and I went to see them at home. Their homes were simplicity its-elf-a-few sticks laid on a tiny crotch of a tree-that was all and the trees were literally full of them. How the queer nests ever held the eggs and kept them from falling to the ground is a mystery.;?? The beech trees were the only nut bearing ones in the country:and they bore abundantly. That was one reason why the pigeons came.: An-other reason was the solitude which they like for their brooding and food:forr:their 30 OLD S E T T1, E RS OF THE young. Some of the pigeons always lingered through the summer as though they were watching nature to see if food would be forthcoming another year. The first summer wore away as it had begun. There was nothing when it opened and there was nothing at its close-a few nubbins of corn, some potatoes, only a little money left and starvation seemed near. We had seen nothing but work with no results. Father was hopeful and would say, "The country is new and all will come right in time." One thing was sure, we could make arrangements and another season see how large a crop of maple sugar we could gather. The nubbins of corn were carefully gathered and carefully housed in the loft, the potatoes were stored in a deep hole under the floor, more corn was purchased-we must live on that now-and we got ready for when that awful snow was on and no one could get in or out. In the early fall father and Seth went to Lime Lake, a mile from us, and cut down some pine trees, sawed them into bolts, the proper length for sap buckets and piled them ready to be hauled home when the snow came. There was so little money left that it was decided that Seth should go to Glen Arbor the first thing in the fall and work all winter. It might be necessary to use his wages to keep the wolf away from the door and his clothes were made ready for his departure. We began to understand something of how we must proceed in order to keep soul and body together. The soul might shrivel until scarcely an atom of the Divine be left and the body grow gaunt and ugly for want of nourishment, yet they would cling together. The summer had ended; we had worked, hoped and were not rewarded by any results from toil. We had heard from the old home once or twice. The nearest postoffice was six miles away. The mail was brought irregularly on the back of an Indian. When I was sent to get any mail that had come, I went with two or three other girls and it took a whole day. But there was one advantage in that, we had to stop and rest and we were sure to stop at some cabin and thus get acquainted with the people. The first time I met my mother-in-law, was on my first trip to the postoffice. I saw her a good many times after that, for when I married I lived among my husband's people for twenty-one years and we got pretty well acquainted. We were less prepared for the second winter. Father and I went over a mile to Lime Lake and brought home on a hand sleigh pine bolts which he split with a fro and made into staves for sap buckets. Our cabin was turned into a cooper shop and only on Sundays the house being specially cleared up had any semblance of a home. By this method we kept track of Sundays. Father made hundreds of buckets to gather the sap and tubs to hold the syrup which was strained through heavy woolen bags to eliminate the lime. He also made an iron pan in which to boil down the sap. These pans had sides of wood and were placed over arches which contained the fire. We made many hundred pounds of fine maple sugar. Food was scarce and the best mother could do was to contrive new methods of preparing the corn which was our only dependence. Seth worked at Glen Arbor and at long intervals came with tea and pork. Father took the sugar with an ox team to Glen Arbor where it was shipped to a rich uncle of mother's in Detroit and sold to good advantage. With the money he bought a horse and wagon and many things needed. Our aunt sent a barrel of clothing and no present, past or future, can ever again be so acceptable. Our sister Sarah who had been left in New Youk state came in July, and it August another sister was added to our family. Dr. Wilson was our physician coming to us from Kasson township, Leelanau county. He was an excellent doctor and fine scholar, teaching school during the winters. He was to send us some medicine and I was sent on horseback to get it. On my return about a mile from home I met a big black GRAN4D TRAV ARS E RV, GION bear which frightened me beyond measure. I screamed in my fright when the bear turned, looked at me and scampered off into the woods. I never saw but one after that and he ran one way as fast as I ran the other. We missed Seth who was at work fifty miles away at a man's full wages, and we also missed the tea and pork he brought on his visits. Mother could only spare one slice of pork for a meal using the drippings to season the water gravy for the potatoes and corn bread. Our sugar was sold in Frankfort and supplied only a few of our many necessities. That summer we found red raspberries and blackberries in abundance. The crops were very poor, a little buckwheat, corn, potatoes and "baggas." We killed our first pig. In our nine years stay on the place we never owned a cow. The choice of a location for a county seat was submitted to a vote of the electors in that early day but it was not an easy matter to settle on a permanent' location. Frankfort and Benzonia contested the right of ownership for more than forty years and the county seat went like a will-of-the-wisp backward and forward from one place to another time and again. The newspapers of the early day, The Banner of Benzonia and the Express of firankfort in long elaborately wrought columns vented their spleen in vituperation of the successful party. Perhaps the people of Benzonia would be peacefully going about their daily avocation or sleeping quietly in their beds, never guessing anything out of the ordinary when the summons would come for some of them to appear at the next term of Circuit Court which would be held at the county seat at Frankfort. Then they would awaken to the fact that the county seat had literally taken legs and walked off-but it did not remain off for long, for the same mode of procedure would be used in reclaiming the stolen property. Finally Frankfort won out and for several years the county seat was fixed at that place, the discarded school building being used as a court house. People seemed afraid to invest money in a county building when the counts seat was so insecure and liable to flit at any moment. In 1905, after more than forty years of contention the matter of a permanent location was again submitted to the voters and Honor, a new town on the Platte river near the center of the county secured the coveted prize. In 1864 a Mr. Beswick built the first saw mill in the interior of Grand Traverse region. It was built on a little stream that emptied into Lake Ann and is known as Ransom Creek. This mill had one muley saw whose running capacity would cut one thousand feet of lumber in a day. In 1866 the mill fell into the hands of the Ransom's, father and son, who built on the same stream in 1869 a gristmill with one run of stones and capacity of grinding five bushels of grain in an hour. Mr. Ransom's mill was kept busy. People came from Glen Arbor, Homestead, Platte, and all over the country. In this same year the Hannah, Lay Co. built their first gristmill at Traverse City and Mr. Hubbell built one at Benzonia. At Traverse City there was an excellent water power. Mr. Hubbell's mill had an over-shot well and a little shute carried the water over the wheel and the power was the one great difficulty but in time that was overcome and a better mill did service for the people. George Yonkers was the first regular minister sent upon our charge. He was a very simple, unpretentious man having but little education or executive ability but he had a firm faith in religion as a power to save and he taught the best he could. His teaching was a simple repetition of the old Bible tales. One Sunday it would be Noah and the Ark, another Elijah and the raven, or Adam and Eve in the garden. He extorted the promise from us one New Year's eve that we would read the Bible through the coming year. Ten chapters on Sunday and three every day in the week would finish the entire book. It was many years before the dancing parties were re-established, 32 OLD' SETTLERS OF T E The winter I was sixteen years old it was the worst winter of my life so far as food and clothing were concerned. If we could get two new print dresses during the year, we thought we were well clothed and one summer mother and I had one pair of shoes between us. It is safe to say they were worn only on rare occasions. The next summer after I was sixteen years old I attended a Sunday school several miles from our house, the first since coming into this new country. There would be the same singing and praying we heard at all the meetings and the teaching consisted of our repeating as many verses from the Bible as we had learned through the week. I have, and have always had a remarkable memory, and that summer I committed the four Gospels to memory and would repeat to the young man who did not teach, just listened to us recite, as many as two hundred verses at a session. It was the same young man who had put the wishbone over the door. He must have been struck with this peculiar mental power and fell in love with me. I returned the afdection and the winter I was seventeen years old I was married. He owned eighty acres of timber land and so far as finances were concerned, nothing else. But he worked in Glen Arbor most of the time and earned food and clothing and some money. He had no home to take me to and I was to stay on with mother. I was fed and clothed and sometimes my good husband brought clothes for mother too. In May when the little eleven-months-old baby sister died it was buried in a little coffin made by some kind-hearted man, a few neighbors gathered, a prayer was said, a hymn sung, some tears shed and the baby taken two miles away and laid to rest. People had begun to die in this new country and a little cemetery was started and already several graves gave evidence that one thing, the great Inevitable, could not be put off. The summer after we were married my husband chopped and cleared about one acre and built a tiny log dwelling on our eighty acres of land. When one and a half years had passed we went there to live. We were a half mile from water but were on level ground. I was now in my nineteenth year -happy in the love of my husband. I had married the finest youth in the country and our little dwelling was the best furnished for miles around. We had six rush bottom chairs, one walnut table, a cottage bedstead, a cook stove, two trunks, one rocking chair and some dishes, a few simple things to work with and enough bedding for one bed. Everything was new and at that time and in that place it had cost a large sum of money. I shall never forget the anguish I experienced over the first thing broken. We had a large lamp, the bottom of which got loose one day when I was washing it and the bottom fell out and struck the stove and broke all to pieces. I cried all day. There was a woman living a mile from me who listened to all sorrow and gave Christian advice and this being my first loss I went to her. She had lately come into the country and knew nothing of the privations of the people, that would come later. When she saw me she thought some awful calamity had befallen me, and really there had for the nearest lamp was twenty-five miles away. I told her my trouble, and she looked strangely at me and said, "You foolish child! Crying for a broken lamp bottom! You will cry for bigger things some day!" and going to a box she took out a lamp bottom prettier than the one I had broken and putting it into my hands said, "There, take that and stop your foolish tears, and then she took some plaster of paris and showed me how to repair the damage done. Father had made me a very large rain water tub, it held several barrels and this was the only well we had for several years. It would be filled with snow 'in the spring and a good tight cover kept the water 'clean and with the rain water we could catch we were usually supplied. My husband had a neck yoke and buckets and sometimes he carried the water from a pond a half a mile away. When my husband chopped the trees down he left a little clump of maple saplings at one end and side of our dwelling and this gave the place GRAND TRAVERS E REGION 33 a picturesque appearance and the very first spring we went there two robins came and set up housekeeping in the young trees. I fed the birds and watched over their domestic plans and mode of life and we called them "Our Birds." In 1869, George Aylsworth moved his cord wood enterprise from the Manitou Island and established himself on the mainland at the point now called Empire. This opened a way for work to be obtained nearer than Glen Arbor or Frankfort. The blast furnace at Frankfort used thousands of cords of hard wood in their coal kilns and many men from our section spent a part of the winter working at that point. But it was much more difficult to get to Frankfort in the winter than to any other point where work could be obtained. They usually had to make a wide detour and go by way of Inland Township making the distance nearly forty miles. The snow was almost impassable and many settlers along the route would not see a traveler only on snow shoes during the entire winter. No sooner had the country been opened up so that it was possible to get in and out with a wagon and work had been provided so that some money could be obtained, the settlers turned their attention to the founding of schools. The first schoolhouses were rude log huts sometimes right in the woods. The first teachers were often beginners and the instruction of the simplest kind. But all this was a beginning and in a few years the young people from Benzonia College began to take schools and by their higher mental development stimulated many of the young girls of the section to attend the higher school at Benzonia and fit themselves for teaching. In time the schools of Grand Traverse region were noted for their efficient instructors. It was a happy day when we knew the great outside world was connected with us by a regular mail route. Sometimes it was difficult to keep the mail moving in the winter time, but men turned out with oxen and horses too and helped open the way. Now when the mail route was established there was always a road of some kind in the winter to Traverse City. Traverse.City was beginning to have a great influence in the country for a railroad from the outside world was gradually coming that way and in December, 1872, reached its destination, bringing a wave ot immigration that was to influence the country for a time, in many ways. The coming of the railroad brought great changes to the country. Many of the early settlers left the country and all was changed. Matt Burnett purchased land from the government, made a large clearing, planted a fine orchard and put up good buildings. After seven years of solitude his wife persuaded him to move, which he did with only an accumulation of six hundred dollars. Mr. Hoxie mortgaged his land and started a store at Almira. At the end of five years he closed his business and buying a small piece of land again began all over. Two others tried the store and failed and numerous other instances could be cited. When my father had been nine years on his land he gave eighty acres to my brother Seth, mortgaged the remaining eighty for two hundred and fifty dollars and left the country in 1876. To my knowledge no one has since occupied his land. My brother Seth was married in 1880 and had one son and two daughters. It had been an unusually severe winter the snow lying six feet on the level aud all the roads were blocked. Seth started out to hunt a deer. While trying to climb over a fallen log he dropped his gun which in some way went off sending the charge through his hand. He was miles from home but guided by his compass he made his way to a man who had some medical skill. His rude surgery only made matters worse so my brother went to Traverse City twentyfive miles away where a doctor dressed the wound but used no anesthetics. His children playing on his lap absorbed the poison and all three died with malignant black diphtheria. Although my brother seemed to improve he 34 OLD SETT LERS OF THE never recovered and that fall conltracted a cold which ended his life after ten days suffering. Grand Traverse County is recovering from the desolation of denuded forests with just enough material left to feed the demons of forest fires. It is surely coming into its own with the promising products of potatoes, vegetables and fruits. Too late to save any of the original forests the great State of Michigan is attempting to aid nature in the restoration of the lost wealth of trees which so often were wasted, not utilized. Here again man thwarts the purpose by his carelessness or greed. I could relate personal incidents of where thoughtless acts started fires which wiped out the work of years and hopes for future sustenance. Leelanau's German settlement has done much for the country. The second crop of trees has been harvested in the county but whether wisely or not time will show. Persons searching for homes have traversed the west and south and returned to settle in the Grand Traverse region. SCHOOL ON THE MADELINE S. E. Wait Writes of the Time when He Taught Aboard the "Madeline" "In November, 1851, five young men arrived at old Miss:on on the schooner "Madeline," with the intention of wintering in the vicinity. Three of them were brothers, named Fitzgerald. William, captain of the 'Madeline,' engaged in the fishing trade between the North shore and Mackinaw Island; THE "MADELINE" Michael, captain of the schooner 'Arrow,' which made weekly trips between Mackinaw Island and Old Mission, and John, a young brother. The fourth was a friend of the Fitzgeralds, named William Bryce. The fifth was Edward Chambers, who was employed as cook. They were all good seamen but were deficient in education. An eager desire to learn was the occasion of their coming. Here in the wilderness they would be removed from the allurements that might distract the attention in a populous part. It is probable also that G RAN D TRAVER S k EGION diffidence arising from a consciousness of their own deficiences made them unwilling to enter public school where their limited attainments would be displayed in painful contrast with those of younger pupils. "At Old Mission, S. E. Wait, seventeen years of age, was engaged as teacher at $20 per month and board. Bryce and the Fitzgeralds were to pay the bill, the cook receiving his tuition in compensation for his services. The after hold was partitioned off for a kitchen, a sash placed at an angle of forty-five degrees over the after hatch furnished the light. A door was cut through to the cabin which was to be used as the school room. A blackboard was installed. The winter's provisions had been provided at Mackinaw, and when all was in readiness, the 'Madeline' was brougnt around to what has since been named Bowers Harbor and securely anchored for the winter. Regular hours of study were observed, and the men voluntarily submitted to strict school discipline. Spelling, reading, writing and arithmetic were the studies best suited to their needs. The evenings were taken up with blackboard exercises. At the end of each month a $20 gold piece was handed to the teacher. "Out of school hours they had plenty of exercise in cutting wood and bringing it on board to say nothing of the recreation of snowballing in which they sometimes engaged with the delight of genuine schoolboys. "The bay did not freeze over till March. Previous to the freezing, the wood was brought on board in the yawl; afterwards it was carried over the ice. "There was no nearer neighbor than at Old Mission, and it would have been an interesting sight to have seen them start out single file on the Indian trail on their occasional visits six miles distant to Old Mission. "In the breaking up of the Mormon kingdom on Beaver Island in 1856, the inhabitants scattered all through this region and a small contingent landed at the Harbor. Nicholas Bower, after whom the harbor was named; Royal Tucker, who later taught a weekly singing school at Old Mission, and two or three other families were the first settlers here. "Of the after history of the boys, William Fitzgerald sailed a few seasons and was later appointed as government inspector of hulls at Milwaukee. Michael sailed the schooner 'Arrow' between Old Mission and Mackinaw Island, followed the Great Lakes a few years and finally settled down on a farm near Port Huron. John sailed a few years and later came into possession of a shipyard in Milwaukee. William Bryce was lost track of. "Some years ago a yachting party consisting of J. A. Montague, C. K. Buck, H. D. Campbell and others of Traverse City, while cruising in Lake Superior, came across Ed Chambers as light keeper at White Fish Point. He later conducted a livery stable on Mackinaw Island, and I think the Chambers livery is still extant by his successors. The teacher, after many years of varied vicissitudes became a druggist in 1875, and is that still in 1918 " FIRST UNION STREET BRIDGE FRONT STIRT lEET 1865 36 OLD SETTLRS 0 o T H TRAVERSE CITY SCHOOLS The first school established at the "Head of the Bay," We-que-tong being the Indian name, afterward Traverse City, was in 1863 in an abandoned log building which had been built by John B. Spencer and used by him for a stable while getting out logs and timber in the winter of 1851 and 52. It stood in a wild locality some distance from the main part of the settlement-what would now be corner Front and Wellington streets. Under the supervision of Mr. A. T. Lay the house was repaired and furnished with such appliances as circumstances would admit of. The door was on the west side with a small window near it, and another on the east side of the room. A stove stood in the middle and teacher's desk near the west window. The floor was loose and open, and one occasion teacher and girls gathered their skirts about them and sprang upon the seats, as a snake with threatening looks and harmless intent was seen leisurely coming up through one of the chinks. The books were such as the pupils happened to have. Reading, MISS HELEN R. GOODALE MRS. BELLE (HANNAH) AYERS Teacher 1853-1854 - Teacher 1861 spelling, writing, arithmetic and geography were taught in the manner of the times. The teacher was Miss Helen R. Goodale, afterward Mrs. Thos. A. Hitchcock, daughter of Dr. D. C. Goodale who was postmaster and had charge of Hannah, Lay and Co,'s large boarding house. Miss Helen lived with her father's family tn the boarding house-her expenses being defrayed by patrons of the school or assumed by Hannah, Lay & Co. according to contract. On the direct route the teacher had to cross the river on the boom near the sawmill on which the men at the mill were gallant enough to help her across. The following is the list of pupils who attended this first school. George, John, Thomas and Elizabeth Cutler, Almond and Ellen Rutherford, Augusta, Clarissa and Lucius Smith, Elizabeth Whitney, Daniel, Alexander, James and GRAND TRAVERSE REGION 37 Jane Carmichael, Albert Norris and Agnes Goodale, sister of the teacher. The next summer the school was increased by the addition of James, William, John and Richard Garland, Melissa, Emma and Anna Rice, and Ruth Williams, also later Helen, Olive, Lucinda, Edward and Charles Blakely and the Trotman family of three children-Jane, Alfred and Belle. After the close of the first term Miss Helen went to Chicago, where she spent the winter in study. Returning in the spring she was again employed to TRAVERSE CITY'S FIRST SCHOOL HOUSE teach in the log school house at an advance of fifty cents a week on her former wages. In 1855 it was found "necessary to have a school house for district No. 1," and a sum of $200 was voted "to be applied on said building.' In 1856 $200, and in 1857 $250 more. This building was one story, on the site now occupied by the annex of Park Place hotel. In 1865 $800 was appropriated to repair the school house and build an addition. At the annual meeting in 1866 it was agitated to secure for school purposes the "park" which had been set aside by Hannah, Lay & Co. for a public park-and bounded by State, Park and Washington streets and Boardman avenue. As the town grew it was not deemed advisable to maintain it for the purpose of a park and Hannah, Lay & Co. expressed a willingness to have the plat vacated and used either for school building purposes or sold and the proceeds applied for school building purposes. Two buildings were later erected on this plat. All these buildings were all occupied and as the town grew the Broadfoot building on State street was used until at our adjourned meeting on October 14, 1876, the committee consisting of J. G. Ramsdell, H. H. Steward, C. R. Paige, J. W. Hilton and William Holdsworth, appointed to select site for OLD SET' I ERS OF THE school buildings reported in favor of securing the block bounded by Wadsworth, Pine, Seventh and Eighth streets. This block was secured by exchange for the east side property and later a fine High School building was erected thereon, this showing the process of evolution from the little log stable on the bay shore. It is impossible to pursue the building operations to the present time, so will switch off to the matter of later teachers. In the winter of 1853-54 Miss Helen Gamon, who was visiting her sister Mrs. Dr. Charlie Holton here, taught in the old Boardman boarding house located where what is now North Division street just off Front street. Miss Helen Goodale again taught in summer of 1854 in this boarding house. In the winter of 1854-55 the teacher was Farwell Campbell, the old boarding house again being occupied by the schools. In the winter of 1855-56 the teacher was a Prof. Enos in a part of H I.RVEYtH. AN DERSON Born June 1, 1846. Taught in Traverse City Schools 1870. PROF. LORIN ROBERTS Pioneer of 1870. Principal of Traverse City Schools from 1872 to 1881. what was afterward known as Front Street House. In the winter of 1856-57 the teacher was Theron Bostwick in the new district school house, corner of Park and State streets. The Summer term of 1857 was taught by a young lady from Old Mission. The winter term of 1859 and 60 was taught by Miss Eugenia Steele, afterward Mrs. R. A. Campbell. The winter term of 1860-61 by Howard Bristol. Miss Belle Hannah, afterward Mrs. Ayers, taught in the summer of 1861. The winter term of 1861-62 was taught by Mr. Cushman. Mrs Esther H. Day, afterward Mrs. Reuben Hatch, Jr., taught in summer of 1862. The winter term of 1862-63 by Gilbert Campbell. Miss Martha E. Cram, afterward Mrs. Thos T. Bates, took the summer term of 1863. The 1863-64 winter term was taught by Emerson Smith. Miss Martha E. Cram taught again in the summer of 1864. The winter term of 1864-65 was taught by Rev. J. H. Crum. The summer of 1865 by Miss Haight. Winter of 1865-66 GRAND T R A V E R S RE GION 39 by Miss Maud Quackenbush. The summer term of 1866 was taught by Richard Hoffman. The two terms of 1866-67 and 1867-68 were taught by H. P. Blake, 1868-69 by S. G. Young. The terms of 1869-70 were taught by Albert Saylor, succeeded by Hervey H. Anderson, brother of W. S. Anderson, and the terms of 1870-71 by Prof. W. F. Saxton, who died before the expiration of the term, and was succeeded by Miss Eleanor Griswold. The summer term of 1871 was in charge of John Nixon. In 1872 Prof. Lorin Roberts from Benzonia was elected superintendent with Mrs Mary K. Buck as teacher in the primary and Mrs. Mary A. S. Roberts in the intermediate. Mr. Roberts conducted the schools until his resignation in 1880 to enter the practice of law. In 1880 Prof. S. G. Burkhead was engaged, retiring in 1884 when Prof. C. T. Grawn was engaged holding the position of superintendent until his resignation in 1899. Later he took the superintendency of the State Normal School at Mt. Pleasant. During his residence in Traverse City the schools attained a high degree of excellency, being placed on the Ann Arbor list. On Prof. Grawn's resignation, Principal C. H. Horn was appointed superintendent, he holding the position until 1902 when he resigned to accept a chair at Grinnell University, Iowa, and Prof. I. B. Gilbert of St. Johns succeeded to the position. Prof. Gilbert held the position until in June, 1911, when Prof. L. L. Tyler was appointed and held the position until on February 23, 1918, when he was granted a year's absence to join the Y. M. (C. A. at the war front in France, and was succeeded by Prof. Geo. H. Curtis. principal of the High School. MEMORIES OF EARLY DAYS lby Ada K. Sp; a.gue Pratt I have been asked to tell something of society in Traverse City in the early days. It would be difficult to tell of a thing which did not exist, and there was certainly nothing which could have answered to that name. If there were the "400" some of the dusky damsels of the wigwams and the braves of the forests must have been included; but there were social conditions of which I love to think, and of which I am not averse to speak. To begin with I will tell that we all came from somewhere, none were indigenous to the soil, none to the manor born; but we had been born elsewhere, and from choice or stress of fortune had found ourselves in a little hamlet at the head of Grand Traverse bay, and, after the first bit of homesickness wore off we liked it-the hamlet and the bay and each other, which was certainly very fortunate-but then you see we were a very good sort of people -at least that was our estimate of each other, and so we proceeded to have just as good a time as possible under the circumstances. We had plenty to eat though the variety was decidedly limited, but that was all right for everybody had, or could have the same things. Corned beef, salt pork and ifresh fish. Once a week Hannah, Lay & Co. would have one of their old oken killed and everybody would buy a piece and that would stay by us sometime. For several years we had only cove oysters and when the stage route was established we could occasionally get fresh ones, but we indulged sparingly for fear of spoiling our already cultivated taste for the cove oysters. When I think of some of the coffee we got during those war times I can but think what a fortune a Postum man could have made. We had to take our peaches from the tin cans of commerce but our berries, such as blue berries, raspberries and 40 O4L D S ETTLER S O F T H E blackberries were delicious and we put them up for winter in jugs with sealing wax on the corks for the self-sealer had not come into use then. Grand Traverse beat the world then as now in the matter of potatoes, and nearly every family kept a cow so you see we did not lack for good things to eat. The Propeller Alleghany brought in the fall all necessary supplies for the next winter. In the spring we did not have to look in the daily paper to see if the ice was breaking in the bay. It used to start from the shore with a good stout south wind and then we would go and sit upon the beach and watch it as it drifted away out into Lake Michigan. I now recall a bit of poetry Mrs. Bates ADA K. SPRAGUE PRATT Pioneer of 1861. Born in Gill, Mass., August 16,1843. Charter member of Ladies' Library Association. Organizer of Eastern Star of Traverse City. made when she and I were sitting gazing out upon the blue waters. If it had been made public we might think Tennyson had read it when he wrote his Song of the Sea, but I now present it to the public for the first time: ' Break, break, break, Against the old dock come kerslam, Making sweet music in the soul Of Ada Sprague and Martha Cram." As to the matter of dress we mostly wore what we brought with us, but if wanted to make a new gown we consulted Peterson's Magazine for styles. we SLEIGHING PARTY The first party held after I came was upon the evening of my arrival and I was too tired to attend. It was in the unfinished Herald building, where the Hamilton-Milliken block now stands. Albert Bacon was one of our business GRAND TRAVERSE REGIONN 41 men and owned the only horses not in constant use. They were a span of lively Indian ponies. Often during an afternoon we would receive a note reading: "The houses of Goodale and Sprague will please hold themselves in readiness to take a sleigh ride tonight," and at seven o'clock a long sleigh box with straw covered bottom would appear at our door with possibly one or two occupants besides Mr. Bacon and we would go. My! what joy it was. The sleighing good, air clear and bracing and young blood flowing through our veins kept us warm. H. D. ''ampbell had a housekeeper at his farm at Silver Lake and we would often drive up there taking our cans of cove oysters and bags of crackers with us. DANCING PARTY AT ELK RAPIDS The first real dancing party I attended was Washington's birthday of 1862. Mr. Bacon took a load of six (including himself) with his sleigh and ponies and we reached Elk Rapids in time for dinner. The party was to be held at the Stocking. House and we drove directly there. I remember the building well for a small tower was upon the top overlooking the broad expanse of East Bay and the proprietor called it his "purgatory," but of course we all knew he meant observatory. After dinner we visited and told stories until supper time, then the supper tables cleared were as soon as possible and by seven or half past the dance beg in. Michael Gay and J. E. Greilick, who accompanied our party, played the violins. Those two instruments furnished the best music I have ever heard at a party. It was almost morning when we retired but betimes were off for a ride about the little hamlet. After dinner Mr. Bacon took some of us to his farm across Elk Lake. The ice rumbled ominously and great cracks yawned in all directions but it did not seem so hazardous until we had learned that the ice all left the lake the next day. We danced a short time that evening but soon gave it up to gather about a huge fire and listen to stories from the lips of Mr. A. S. Wadsworth, tales of personal adventure and hair breadth escapes told as only he could tell them. It was near Sunday morning before we retired, but we were up in time to hear a good Methodist sermon at the school house. After dinner we started home taking Mr. Wadsworth with us and stopping at his store located at Petobego Lake. It was a low two story log building, the lower part used as a boarding house for his men and the upper for a store to furnish supplies. He had a small assortment of trinkets and the boys bought souvenirs for each of the girls. I have mine yet. We reached home just at dark a tired but happy crowd. The next summer I went over the same route on the back of one of the same ponies we rode after then. We had dancing parties at various places after that. At the Gunton House, Hannah & Lay's boarding house and often one at Mr. Hannah's house. In the winter we had singing school too, and it is possible one or two are present who will remember the singing teacher who would say with great emphasis, "Now, all ascend up," as he flourished his heavy baton and run the scale from "do" to high "C." I have always wondered why it was, with such advantages I never became a singer, but some how I escaped. There were candy pulls and pop corn parties. We were all readers as well as workers and the larger number of adult women were, as well as most of the men, exceedingly well informed upon all current topics. With the mail coming once a week we were well supplied with reading matter (we always took a large market basket to the'post office.) What one had we all had or were welcome to have; and all were liberal subscribers to the periodicals of the day. The kindly atmosphere which, like the breath of our own pine woods, pervaded the place and made us feel like one large household and the desire for intelligent companionship was mutual. We met and discussed what we read, always with a keen interest in the movements of the great outside world so full of war and strife. Our few soldier boys were sent off with as hearty a God speed as 42 OLD SETTLER S OF ' TH E ever followed a whole regiment. Science, art, inventions, religion, all received our attention. To the ladies who think they cannot call a company together without holding forth bridge, eucre or some form of amusement I just want to say a game of cards was never, to my knowledge, played in Traverse City during all those early years. In the spring the maple sugar camps were frequently visited and those of us who did not go to "Jericho" went elsewhere to the sugarings off, sure to have a good time wherever it was, for the good reason that we carried it with us. Hospitality was everywhere where the smoke of a chimney curled and try as we might there was no such things as forestalling an invitation. The old received the greatest consideration and the young the kindest attention. Like one great family we were dependent upon each other and everybody found happiness in helping to make others happy. One very enjoyable event occurred with great regularity during a few months of the year. PROPELLER ALLEGHANY When the old Propeller Alleghany's whistle was heard in the vicinity of Marion Island (then prempted by Albert Bacon and called Island No. 10) everybody started for the dock ready to hear the news and welcome all new comers. Then too just to look at the boat was a source of joy for she had come direct from the outside world from which we were cut off. If she whistled just before noon on Sunday I will not tell you that any left Divine service but the minister would hasten to pronounce the benediction while he had an audience. We went about a great deal upon the water in crafts of all kinds and when H. D. Campbell was married to Miss Kate Carmichael six of us were invited to go with them upon the Alleghany to Port Sarnia and Port Huron. It was a fine trip and ever to be remembered by the few of us left, for out of the party invited including bride and groom, only one is left. The stanch old captain and his mates passed away years ago. We had wonderful Christmas trees then standing all about us the year around, but the evening of the 24th of December would find us crowded into the old school house with its half dozen kerosene lamps, and a tree all aglow with bits of candles and tinsel, strings of pop corn and bits of bright tin. Then too the best of it was everybody within a radius of two miles was remembered without one exception. The baby with a pair of shoes or a rattle, the needy with a ham, a sack of flour or a dried apple cake. Butter was scarce and very dear but with the spice it was impossible to detect the lard smuggled in for shortening. I could tell of many things of interest as the years passed on. OUR FIRST CLUB I think our first club was called "The Mutual Admiration Society" and good literary work was done by the young people. Those were good old pioneer days but much as they were enjoyed then I would not recall them. Why, the first time I went to New York I went in February of 1868 on stage to Grand Rapids. Left here at seven on Tuesday morning and we rode until ten or half past nights getting to Grand Rapids at 3:30 the afternoon of the following Friday. We made good time too and did not feel very tired. Now we go to Grand Rapids and reach there in less than five hours all tired out and exclaim it was such a long dreary ride! Everything goes by steam and electricity so much now a days we are constantly desiring more rapid transit. I am very proud of our Queen City by the bay and am only sad that the dear ones who lived those pioneer days with us cannot see the wonderful development of our town and country. I still contend that no one who attends the "Movies" has any more real pleasure out of them than we did when we paid out ten cents to go into a ten by twelve show tent (which would come once in a while upon the boats) to view the great living GRAN D TRAVERS E REGION 43 43 wonders of the age or took our work at two o'clock and together with other ladies and their husbands sat down to a hearty six o'clock combination dinner and supper. MY ARRIVAL IN TRAVERSE CITY Just after the first troops were sent out from Southern Michigan, my mother and I accompanied my brother Mr. E. L. Sprague, who had been in Elk Rapids and Traverse City several years, to Chicago, where at that time the remains of Stephen A. Douglas lay in state. After a stay there of thirty-six hours we took passage on board the Propeller Alleghany, owned by Hannah, Lay & Co.. with George Boynton for captain, George Baldwin first mate and Eli Coon second mate. After a ride of thirty hours with Lake Michigan on her very best behavior we reached this port at seven o'clock on the morning of June 10, 1861. It was one of those perfect days immortalized by the poet Lowell because so rare. As the good old captain pulled into the dock he was greeted by Perry Hannah (then only thirty six years old) who stood with hands ready to grasp the mail pouches while he asked eagerly for the latest war news. There seemed a Sabbath's stillness in the air broken only by the noise of the boat and the dreamy buzzing of the saws at the one mill, as they passed through the huge pine logs. Then we waded through the sand and sawdust to Dr. Goodale's house where we were to board until we could go to housekeeping. That morning begun a friendship between the two families broken only as death has severed the links. Ten ate breakfast there that morning, and today only one of the ten are living. The house stood where the Hotel Whiting now stands and the house we were to occupy was where Barnum & Earl's jewelry store is. Mr. Smith Barnes was store manager for Hannah, Lay & Co. and boarded at the Doctor's. During a few week's absence of Mrs. Barnes, and with his usual desire to make the women folks comfortable, backed plank, and laid a walk with his own hands between the two back doors so we would not have to empty our shoes of sand after making a neighborly call. TRAVERSE CITY I wish I could make you see Traverse City as I saw it that beautiful morning. I had never lived in but one town and that a village with churches of various denominations, a Union school and situated on the M. C. R. R. so I did not expect a very large city, but why did they call it a city? The name city seemed such a misnomer, but the men who gave the name must have had the faith of the mother who always made her boy's clothes too large for him and when interviewed upon the subject replied, "Johnny will grow to them" and Johnny did grow to them and we have grown to have a legal right to our name of city and more than that we are proud to be called the "Queen City of the North." I will acknowledge that fifty-seven years ago it took a great stretch of imagination to see much of a city here. All of the north side of Front Street was grown up to wild roses, brakes and blueberry brush. I have many times picked quarts of berries there. As I said before, the houses were all upon the south side of the street. Beginning at the east end was a small part of what has of late been called "Cottage Home" but was then our grandest hotel, owned and named by the proprietor, "The Gunton House." Mr. Gunton's daughter, Mrs. B. J. Morgan, has lived continuously during her life of half a century upon the one block, with the exception of a temporary residence upon the next block while the new house was being constructed. There was a small frame dwelling just south of the hotel. West was an old log house where Miss Helen Goodale, later NMrs. T. A. Hitchcock, taught the first school, but then used as a dwelling by Gustavus Brown. No other building until we reached the southeast corner 44, OLD SET T E RS OF TH E of Front and Park Streets, where stood a small dwelling to be seen only a year ago. The small building back of it, later a bicycle repair shop, was a store with a stock of goods owned by H. D. Campbell and A. W. Bacon. Next was a hotel run by Wm. Fowle and called "The Fowle House." A. V. Friedrich's block stands upon its site. Morgan Bates was just erecting a one story office building on the corner where the First National Bank is located, and where Dreamland stands was a small cottage afterwards owned by Smith Barnes. As I mentioned before, our own house stood where Barnum & Earl's jewelry store is and where Mr. Kyselka's store stands we had a very nice vegetable garden, that part of the lot having been enriched by many loads of heavy soil. Dr. Goodale's residence was a few feet west and was used as a dwelling house, Doctor's office and the post office. The township library was also kept there. Then came the house occupied as a private dwelling by Thomas Cutler and in later years added to and used as a hotel bearing the stately name of Mansion House. Today we see the ground covered by the Wilhelm Block. There was no house near the Leelanau county line except on the corner of Bay and Elmwood. Albert Bacon owned it then, built a small dwelling house and called the place Lincolnville. Coming back we find an old flour mill about where the intersection of North Division and Front street is. Mr. Hannah's cottage was a part of the cottage still standing on Bay street. Farther north were some old hay sheds, then came some rude dwellings used by the mill men with families. The location on Bay street was known as Slab City and all the houses west were located in Bagdad. There was a certain jealousy existing between these localities and I always suspected the Slab Cityites felt more aristocratic because they possessed the one house with a real brick chimney, and the Bagdadites were possibly envious of it. Mr. Dominic Dunn lived in a small house west of the Wilhelm Block and Joseph Knizek occupied a very small house west of that one, some of it being used as a shoe shop. Away out on Washington street stood a small new dwelling painted white and occupied by Morgan Bates. It is the upright part of Mrs. Lorin Roberts' house. A low school house (used as a court house during session of circuit court) stood where Park Place Annex stands. There had been upon the public square two buildings known respectively as Court House and Jail but the former was burned a short time before I came here and the Jail was of little value. Crossing the wooden bridge at North Union street we find upon the right a two story wooden building occupied by Hannah, Lay & Co. who were then as now "Dealers in Everything." Upon the left was an old tool house and Hannah, Lay & Co's. boarding house for their men. Later it was very much added to and known as the "Bay House," afterward the Pangborn House and was burned January, 1902. The Grand Traverse Herald office and the U. S. Land offices occupied a small building just west upon Bay street and Mr. Germaine resided just west of that. Aside from the necessary outbuildings and barns I think I have recalled every structure near Traverse City. It was all woods south of town, no dwelling in that direction nearer than where Mr. Ransom now lives. That was Bohemia town, where as young lads resided many of our respected business men of today. This is the way I first saw Traverse City fifty-seven years ago. OUR CEMETERY There is one thing more I wish to speak of, that is our cemetery. When I came the only burial place was on the bank of the Boardman river, east of the Carnegie Library, and about where the park is now located. In 1861 the Board of Supervisors arranged for forty acres of land and while they felt certain not more than half of it would be used they wanted to be sure and have enough for all time to come. The population was small and GRAND TRAVERSE R EGION 45 people were shamefully healthy. The first person buried in the new ground was John Hopper who was accidentally killed by his gun. I have no doubt that incident gave rise to an item I saw afterwards in a Pennsylvania paper stating that Traverse City, Michigan was such a healthy place they "had to kill a man to start a burying ground." We still claim ours is a healthy climate but all manner of diseases have been brought to us unti. now our City of the Dead is becoming crowded and we have added more acres THE MILLIKEN COTTAGE At the time of the World's Fair at Chicago in 1892, J. W. Milliken erected a small cottage on the Fair grounds to entertain his Traverse City friends. Mrs. Mary K. Buck wrote the following poem in commemoration of the event, at a reunion at "Edgewood" in the cottage which had been placed there. Oh, here's to the cottage we fondly remember, That squatted last year on a bit of wild ground, From some time in June till the chilly November, With the Fair to the North, and the prairie around. Should you ask me the style of its quaint architecture I fear I should be quite unable to tell; But with beds that are downy, snug walls to protect ye, And fare that was dainty, you lived like a swell In that queer little cottage, the Milliken cottage, The dear little cottage that sheltered us well. No portico vast, neither turret nor gable, Could add.to that cottage one beauty or grace; But Queen Anne lent a hand to preparing its table, And reigned in its kitchen with bright, smiling face, And the guests, with their grips and their telescopes handy, Whose fortune it was in that cottage to dwell, Pronounced it, in language emphatic, "a dandy," And still of its pleasures they oft love to tell: That wonderful cottage, the Milliken cottage, The dear little cottage we all loved so well. 'I'he wonder was great that so lowly a dwelling Could harbor so many its four walls withinThose walls were of rubber, so yielding and swelling, Its inside was cosy, its roof was of tin. A puzzle it seemed to the crowds passing by itSome thought it a side-show, and others a bar. But little cared they whom good luck brought anigh it,And many who gathered from near and from far — In that queer little cottage, that wide-spreading cottage, That stood with its friendly door ever ajar. When at night from our sight-seeing, weary, returning, How gladly we welcomed its bright, homelike cheer:The table well spread, antl the lamp softly burning, And freinds from the northland who gathered anear, Though Time may blot out, with his grimy old finger, Full many a scene that is charming and rare, Yet long in our mem'ries the cottage will linger That J. W. Milliken took to the fair. That queer little cottage, that low-spreading cottage, The cottage that sheltered us royally there. 46 O L LD SETTLERS OP F THE EARLY HISTORY OF ELK RAPIDS The pioneer settler of Elk Rapids was |u^ iIi Abram S. Wadsworth. He was a native of Durham, Conn. Came to the Grand Traverse region in 1846. In 1847 he built a small log cabin near the present site of I the town hall. This was the first building put up by a white man in Antrim county. About that time he was employed by the government in the re-survey of lands and with the funds arising from his work he.... erected a h house on his lands and late in the fall his family settled therein. In 1850 I: and 51 he built the first saw mill on the east side of the bay, James McLaughlin superintending the work. Elk Rapids, River and Lake were so named by him because of a pair of elk horns which he found in t'he sand at the mouth of the river. He named Round Lake from its shape and Clam Lake from the vast number of clams found in the river. Torch Lake was so named by the Indians because of the fishing lights Oused l_;i --- —-;- - on the lake. Was-wah-go-nink signifies a lake of torches. ABRAM S. WADSWORTH In the spring of 1852 the village of Pioneer of 1846 Elk Rapids was laid out by A. S. Wadsworth. Lots were sold at twenty-five dollars each. The first two lots, where the town hall now stands, were sold to James McLaughlin, in payment for which he gave a blacksmith's bellows. Among those who came that season was Michael Gay, John Lake, Jared Stocking, John B. Spencer and their families. The year 1853 brought many changes. Large additions of imigrants were made to the population. Among these were John Denahy, Elvin L. Sprague, Jared W. Arnold, Donald F. Parks, Alexander Campbell and Hiram Robinson. Early this year Mr. Wadsworth sold his mill to James Rankin & Sons who built a store and brought in a stock of goods. Jared Stocking opened a hotel. The following winter Mr. Wadsworth built another saw mill on the site of the mill since owned by Dexter & Noble, Mr. Northam having charge of the business. The mill was scarcely completed when it was sold to M. Craw & Co., of which firm Mr. Wirt Dexter was the principal partner. A notable event of this year was the opening of the first school. The school district was organized in May, 1853, and the school was taught by George W. Ladd, a young man from Old Mission. Another event of 1853 was the establishment of a postoffice. The first postmaster was Theron Bostwick. In September, 1855, Mr. Henry H. Noble came to Elk Rapids as an employe of M. Craw & Co. He was born in Palmyra, N. Y., August 25, 1823; two years later his parents removed to Washtenaw County, Mich., where subsequently he engaged in the mercantile business. Among the arrivals in 1856 was S. E. Wait, who entered the employ of M. Craw & Co. April 1st continuing with them during the existence of the GRAND TRAVERSE REG ION 47 firm, and subsequently with Dexter & Noble, excepting the year 1860 when he built the schooner Zephyr for Dr. Thomas Fearnside of Old Mission, 1861 at Old Mission, and 1862 teaching the government Indian schools at Middle Village and Pashawbatown, until the fall of 1865, teaching the Elk Rapids school during the winter of 1865-66, moving to Traverse City in the spring of 1866. In the fall of 1856 the firm of M. Craw & Co. was dissolved and a new one organized under the name of Dexter & Noble, Wirt Dexter and Henry H. Noble being the only partners. EARLY HISTORY OF CHARLEVOIX Charlevoix in the early days was known as Pine River. At this point as at all the lake points, the first comers were fishermen. As early as 1852 and perhaps earlier fishermen were located here and in the spring of 1853 quite a colony had collected. Capt. T. D. Smith had an establishment southwest of the mouth of the river, four families west of Smith, three at the mouth of the river and one, half a mile farther north. These homes contained families of women and children. Trouble arose between the fishermen and the Mormons of Beaver Island, whose history will appear elsewhere under the title, "King Strang's Home," caused a scattering of the fishermen in fear of being attacked by overpowering numbers of the Mormons, so Pine River seems to have been an abandoned settlement until the spring of 1854 when George Preston and family arrived from Beaver Island and took possession of one of the houses on the north side of the river. Soon after the arrival of Preston, Galon B. Cole and family arrived from Fox Island on the schooner "Dolphin." These were Mormons as were also Medad Thompson and Widow Ring who arrived in the fall, and Adam See and Daniel Alvord in the spring of 1855. On the 11th of May, 1855 John S. Dixon and family arrived at the mouth of Pine River from Old Mission in the little schooner "Emeline." The party consisted of Mr. and Mrs. Dixon, their three children and Mr. Wolcott and Frank May. No sooner were the Dixon's party and effects landed than the captain of the "Emeline," who was in bad odor with the Mormons, fearing an attack set sail and the schooner soon disappeared in the distance. Mr. Dixon had brought with him a considerable amount of supplies, including a small boat and some lumber. Of the latter a temporary residence was built on the beach, in which the family remained for the next three days. The three days were spent in clearing a path along the south margin of the stream, then by towing, the family and goods were transported up the river and landed on the north shore where the stream leaves Round Lake. At this point they found a small settlement of Mormons who regarded Mr. Dixon with suspicion and plainly indicated that he was not welcome. There had been several fisherman's shanties on his premises. ( Mr. I)ixon's purchase of a considerable tract of land lying on Pine River and Round and Pine Lakes had been consummated a year lefore.) One of these shanties was still standing when he first landed from the "Emeline" but had been torn down in the meantime. However he soon had it so far rebuilt as to be able to occupy it as a temporary dwelling in 48 OLD S E T TLERS OF THE which his family resided for some time until having become thoroughly discouraged by the constant annoyance of the Mormons and feeling his inability to successfully oppose by force or otherwise protect his property against their depredations he reluctantly decided to abandon the settlement and accordingly wrote Lewis Miller at Old Mission to send a vessel to carry them away. The sloop "Defiance," Capt. Sheppard, was sent and after consultation and delineration it was decided to send his family to Northport, Mr. Dixon to remain. About the first of August, 1856, the small schooner "Rover" arrived whose crew and passengers were Samuel Horton and family and two young men, John Newman and Archie Buttars. At the closing in of the winter of 1856-57 there were four families in the Pine River region, those of Medad Thompson, J. S. Dixon, Samuel Horton and John Miller and the two young men Newman and Buttars. Mr. Buttars soon went to Elk Rapids thence to Traverse City and Northport and did not return to Charlevoix until 1869. John S. Dixon was born in Mexico, Orange County, N. Y., August 24, 1818. His father was Rev. David R. Dixon, a graduate of Yale College and a Presbyterian clergyman at Mexico. John S. married July 1, 1866, Phebe S. Pratt at Orwell, Ashtabula County, Ohio. She was born at Lynn, Conn., 1820. They had five children. The plat of Charlevoix was made by Mr. Dixon in 1866. LITTLE TRAVERSE AND SURROUNDING TOWNS Little Traverse Bay and the resorts along its shores have become famous, owing to the wonderful climatic advantages. The location and chirography around the Bay encouraged the belief that only a fragment of its early history has been prepared. The points most prominently associated with Indian and missionary history are L'Arbre Croche, Cross Village, Middle Village and Little Traverse. L'Arbre Croche, meaning crooked tree, was a short distance above Middle Village. At that point stood a tall crooked pine tree, which occupied an elevated position and could be seen far out upon the lake. Back to the year 1825 we find the Catholics returning to re-establish missions that had been abandoned. First a church was built at Middle Village and in 1827 the mission was moved to Little Traverse. About this time a church was built at Cross Village. In 1855 Father Weikamp established a convent at Cross Village. The early history of Bear '