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INTO THE
A B'rif   Relaion oflorey'''lately
perfor-med by Mafler TH. B. Gentlemant
from England by the way of Venice, into
Dalmatia, Schrvonia,2 Bo~fna'b, HungaryMa.
cedoniaz,, The~faýy, Tbracce.qe, Rkbods anad
Eg4ypt, unto Gran Caio
With particular Qbfiervations coiicerning
thc mode- ne condhitiaok the whrksand
other people un~der that Emiipire.b
The fecond Edition.,
LON.DONly
PriutedJby i. L. for 4tdren' Ci.Ohp, and af e e" be fol
AtthefigeOf th.e Beae in Fa4b Clurqbhyard.:


2




0




1


A
VOYAGE INTO


THE LE VANT.
Ntelleauall Complexions have no
defire fo ftrong, as that of know-.
ledge; nor is any knowledge unto
man fo certaine, and pertinent, as
that of humane affaires: This experience advances beft, in obferving of people, whole inflitutions
much differ from ours; for cuftomes conformable to
our owne, or to fuch wherewith we are already acquainted, doe but repeat our old obfcrvations, with
little acquift of new. So my former time fpenr in
viewing Italy,France, and fome little of Spaine, being
countries of Chriftian inflitution, did but reprefent in
a feverall dreffe,the effed of what I knew before.
Then feeing the cuftomes of men are much fway-.
ed by their naturall difpofitions, which are originally
infpired and compofed by the Climate whofe ayre,
and influence they receive, it feemes naturall, thac
A2                   to




AVoyage into the Levant.
to our Nor th-WeJI parts of the World, no people
fliould be more averfe, and ifrange of behaviour
then rhofe of the Suth-Eb af: Moreover, thofe parts
being now poffift by the rTurkes, who are the only
moderne people, great in aafion, and whofe Empire
bath fo fuddenly invaded the World, and fixr it felfe
lich firre foundations as no other ever did; I was
of opinion, that he who would behold thefe times
in their gereateif glory, could not finde a better Scene
then Turky ~ thefe confiderations fent me thither;
where my generall purpofi gavc me foureparrti" ar
cares: Firft,- to obferve Che Religion, Manners and
Policie of the 7iurkes, not perfedfly, (which were a
taske for an inhabitant rather then a paffenger,)but fo
farre forth, as might fatisfie this fcruple, (to wit)
whether to an unpartiall conceit, the Turkijh way ap.
peare abfolutely bar1~arous, as we are given to under-o
Itand, or rather an other kinde of civilitie, difrrent
from ours, but no leffe pretending: Secondly, in
fome meafure, to acquaint my felfe with thofe other
fedls which live under the Tu rks, as Greekes, Armenians,Freinks, and zinganaes, but efpecially the Iewes3
a race from-all others fo averfe both in nature and infilitution, as glorying to fingle it felfe out of the reft
of mankinde, remaines obftinate, contemptible, and
famous: Thirdly, to fee the Turkilk bArmy' then go.
ing againft Poland, and therein to note, whether their
difcipline cmilitary encline to ours, or elfe be of a
new mould, though not without fome touch, from;!the countries they have fubdued; and whether it be
of a frame apt to confront the Chriflians, or. not:.T~he la~ and choice piece of my intent, was to view
-The IaI an   1




A VoyX   ge into the Le' 'ata.                 _
Gr(ai Cairo- and that for two canfes; firft, it being
clearely the greatetl concourfe of Mankinde in rhefe
times, and perhaps that. ever was; there mufttneeds
be fome proportionable Cpirit in the Governmenti
for fuch vaite multitudes, and thofe of wits Co deeply
malicious, would foone breed confiifionfamine, and
utter defolation, if in the irykiJh domination there
were nothing but fotci(h fenfualitie, as molt Chriifit
sues conceive: Lafily, becaufe Egypt is held to have
beene the fountaine of-all Science, and Lcrts civil4ý.
therefore I did hope to finde Come fparke of rhofe
cinders not yet put ou;- or elfe in the extreme contrarietie, I (hould receive an impreffion as importanr,
from the ocular view of fo- great a revolution j for
above all other fenfes, the eye having the moft itn.
mediate, and quicke commerce with the foule, gives
it a more fmart touch then the refi, leaving in the
fivwcy fomewhar unutterable,; Co that an eye witneffe
of things conceives them with an imigination more
complear, ftrong., and intuitive, then he can either
apprehend,or deliver by way of relation -;. for relatii
ons are not only. in great part falfe, out of the relaters
mif-information, vanitie, or intcreei; but which is
unavoidable, their choice, and frame agrees more nai.
rurally. with his judgemenrwhofe iAFlc they are, then
with -his-readers; Co as the reader is like one feafecd.
with difies fitter for another mans iomacke, thtn his.
owne:, but.a traveller takes with his eye, and eare,,
only fuch occurrerncies. into obfervation., as his owne
apprehenfion affhdts, and through that fympathr, caa
digelt them  into. an experience more narurall fdr.
hinfelfe, then he could have done thec notes ofano;*
A,.               ther::




4             A Voyage into the Levant.
ther: Wherefore I defiring fomewhat to informe
my felfe of the Turkil Nation, would not fit downe
with a booke knowledge thereof, but rather(through
all the hazard and endurance of travell,) receive it
from mine owne eye not dazled with any affedion,
prejudicacy, or milt of education,which preoccupate
the minde, and delude it with partiall idea, as with
a falfe glafkfe, reprefenting the obfjea in colours, and
proportions untrue: for the juft cenfure of things is
to be drawn from their end whereto they are aymed,
without requiring them to our cuftomes, and ordinances, or other impertinent refpeds, which they
acknowledge not for their touch-flone: wherefore
bee who paffes through the feverall educations of
men, muft not try them by his owne, but weyning
his mind from all former habite of opinion, (hould
as it were putting off the old man, come frefh and
fincere to confider them: This preparation was the
caufe, why the fuperftition, policie, entertainments,
dietr,lodging, and other manners of the Turkes, never
provoked me fo farre, as ufually they doe thofe who
catechize the world by their owne home  and this
alfo barres thefe obfervations from appearing beyond my owne clofer,for to a minde poffeft with any
fet dodrine, their unconformitic muft needs make
them feeme unfound, and extravagant, nor can they
comply to a rule, by which they were not made.
Nevertheleffe confidering that experience forgotten
is as if it never had beene, and knowing how much I
ventured for it, as little as it is, I could not but efleeme it worth retaining in my owne memory,
though not transferring to others: hereupon I have
in




A Voyage into-theLeLi~ant.              5
in thefe lines regifired to my felfe, what foever molt
tooke me in my journey fromrennice into Turky.
Pirft, I agreed with a. Iaizaryqt Venice, to find- me.
Dyer, Iorfe, Coach, Paffage, and all orher ufuall.
charges, as farre as ConfRintineple: Then upon the
feventh of tMay, 1614. 1embaiq'd on a Venetia1
Gaily with a CaravatA of Turkes,;Ind. Lewts bound for
the Levant, not having any Chriftia* with them befides my felfe: this occafion was right to my purpofe S for the familiaritie of bed, board, and pffage
together, is more opportune to diklofe the cufiomes
of men, then a much longer habitation in Cities,
where focierie is nor fo linkr, and behaviour more
perfonare, then in travell, whofe common fuffirings
endeare men, laying them open, and obnoxious to
one another: The nor having any other Chrifian
in the C,4arran gave nce two notable advantages:i
Firif, that no other mans errors could draw either
batred, or engagement upon me; then I had a freedome of complying upon-occaiion of queftions by
them made; whereby I became all things to all men,
which let me into the breaffs of many.
The GaIly lying that day, and night in Port at Lis,
fer Sayle the next morne,and in 2 4.houres, arrived at
l'weOVS  a Venetian Citie in Ifiria=: it fands in a creeke
of the Adratiqxe,upon a hill promontory which bath
two thirds wafbed by the Sea,the South-Eaji fide joyned to the Continent; the foyle rocky, and barren,as
all that tide along the GmIfie; it is an hundred-miles
from   nicen, and therefore being fo firre within the
Gaif,is not fortified as againft much danger, yerhath
it a pretty wall, and forcrcffe with a fimal! Garrifon:
from




6           A Voyage nto the LOant.
from thence we came to Zara: this Citie (tands in
Dalmatia, andofall others within the Gulfis by reafon of the fcituation,mofit apt to command the whole.ddriatique,and therefore has formerly beene attemp.
red by the Turke; wherefore the Venetians have fortifyed it extraordinarily, and now though in times
of firme peace,. keepe it with (trong comDanies both
of Horfe,and Foot: The Generallof the Horfe came
in another Gally with us, he was firlE welcomed with
a volley ofgreat,and fmall hot from the walles; then
by three Nobles therein feverall Offices commanding, he was accominpanyed to the Towneball, where
his briefe Patent once read,he had the Staffe,and Prew
cedency of his predeceffour: after a dayes view ofthis
place, we Sayled to spadatro a City ofsclavonia, kept
by the remetians as their onely EMporirm  plyed fucceffively with two Gallies, which carry betweene renice, and that place, fuch merchandize as are tranfported intoTurky,or from thence brought in: it flands
in a molt pleafant valley on the south fide of great
mountaines: in the wall toward the Sea, appeares a
great remainder of a gallery in Dioclefian his Palace:
Siouthward of the rowne is the Sea which makes an
open Port capable of ten, or twelue Galyes; without
is an unfecure Bay for great Ships, at theentrance a"
bove halfea mile broad; yet not fo renowned for the
skill of ot/avi*A, who chained it up, when he belieged salPSx,as for the fierce refolution ofrulteium, and
his company theretaken: in this Towne t, -  renetians allow the great Turke to take cuitqpe ofthe Merthandaize whereupon there refides his Emir or Treafurer who payes. hin- thirtic five thpufand Dollars a.
yearc




A  Voyage into the Lel4nt.              7
Yeare,as him felfe,ard others told me:there are high
walles, and firong companyes to guard this City;
yet I heard their chiefe fafery to be in, having fo unufefull, and fmall an H4veC, wherefore the Turke.fleemes Spae'tro in effd, but as a land rowne, nor fo
much worth as his prefent cuffome, and fo covets it
"not like Sarifor if he did, he has a terribleadvantage
upon it, having taken from the Venetians Cyfi,  not
above Cowermiles off; which is the firongeft land
fortreffe that I ever beheld.
AtSpa/atro having flayd three dayes, our Carmvo*
was furnifhed with horfes; the firft journey we began
about Sunfet our lodging two miles of we pitch'd upon a little hill, growne over with umnper, once the
fear ofsaa'onx a city famous, for their bravery againit
O6?avifs; there is not now fo much as a ruine left,
excepting a poore piece of Dioclejians aqAdiueid:
Hence wee pafIfed the Hilles of Dogliana far higher
then the dlpes,and to fteep,as in our defcenr for three
dayes togerter, it was a great precipice, then that
halfe day his comming downe from Mount ceoisinto Piemant; having for the moft part, rode thus nine
dayes, wee came into a fpacious,and frutefull playne,
Which at the weft, where wee entred, at leaft ten,
miles Over, is on the Nortb, and South tides immured
with ridges ofeafy, and pleafant hilles, fill by de.
grees, ttreightning the playne, till after fix or feven.
miles riding, it growes not above a mile broade -
there found wee the City Saraib, which extendes
from the one tide, to the other, and takes up part of
both Alcents; at the Eaji end ftandcs a caftle upon a
Ikepe rocke commanding thcTozTIe, and paffage
B             EaflZ.ard;








A Voyage, *into the Levamte


I~aft-ward: This is the Metropolis ofthekingdome of
Aofn4b: it is but meanely built, and nor great, reckoning about fourefcore t3efcheetoes, and twentie
thoufand houfes.
In my three dayes aboade,the moft notable things
I found, was the goodneffi of the water, and vafte,
almoftgyant. like ftature of the men, which with their
bordringupon Germany, made me fuppofe them to
be the off-fpring of thofe old Germans noted by cafar,and Tacitus for their huge fize,which in other places, is now degenerate into the ordinary proportions
of men: Hence at our departure, we went along
with the Bdahaw of Eofnab his troopes going for the
warre of Poland  they were of Horfe; and foot betweenefixe or feven thoufand, but went fcattering:
the Bajhaw not yet in perfon, and the takingleave of
their friends, Spirited many with drinke, difcontent, and infolency  which made them fitter company for the Divell, then for a Chrifian: my felfe after many launces, and knives threatned upon me, was
invaded by a drunken lanizay, whofe iron Mace
entangled in his other furniture gave me time to flee
among the Rocks,whereby I efcap'd untoucht: Thus
mnarcht we ten dayes through a hilly country, cold,
not inhabited, and in a manner a continued Wood,
moft of Pine trees: at length we reached yallov4b,
a pretty little Towne upon the confines of Hungary,
where the Campe flaying fome dayes, we left them
behind, and being to paffe a Wood neere the Chriftid countrey, doubting it to be (as confines are)
full of Thieves, we divided our caravan of fixfcore
Horfe in two partsi halfe with the Perfons, and
Goods




A  Voyage into the Lepant.               9
Goods of left efteene, we fent a day before the reft,
that Co the thieves having a bootie, inight be gone
before we came; which hapned accordingly; they
were robbed; one thiefe, and two of ours ilaine;
fome hundred dollars worth of goods loft: The next
day we paffed, and found fixteene thieves, in a narrow paffage, before whom, we fet a good guard of
Harquebtze, and rifols,till the weaker fort paffed by:
1o in three dayes, we came Cafe to Beigrada.
This Cirie anciently called 7'aurumoum, or LAl4a
Greca was the cwetropolih of Flangary till wonne by
SMIfVan Soly man the fecondin the yeare 1i  5. it is one
of the moftpleafanr, flately, and commodious Ccituations that I have feene: it ifands moft in a hottome ercompaifed Eaft-ward, by gentle and pleafant
arcenrsemployed in Orchards, or Vines South-ward
is an eafie hill, part poffet with buildings, the reft a
burying place of well-nigh three miles in compaff',
fo full of graves as one can be by another: the Weil
End yeilds a right magnificent afpe&, by reafon of
an eminency of land jetting out further then the reff,
and bearing a goodly ftong caJ'lk whofes walles are
two miles abour, excellently fortified with a dry
ditch, and out-works: this cafile on the Weft fide
is wvatbed, by the great River Sava, which on the
North of the Citie, loofes it felfe in the Danxbia4, of
old called lier now Duny, and is-held the greateft
River in the world, deepe and dangerous for Navir
garion, runnes Raft. ward, into the Euxkne or blacke
Sa, in its pafifge receiving fiftie and odde Rivers,
anoil of them navigable: two rarities I was told of
this river, and with my owne experience, found true:
B a               one




1 _ 1 _ I _ _ _ _ __ _ _


10


A Voyage into the Lei.7ant.


one was that at mid-day,-and mid-night, the tireame
runnes flower by much then at other timesrhis thcy
finde by the noyfe of thofe Boat-rilles, whereof
thereare about rwentic, like thofe upon the Rboane at
Lyons: their clakkers beace much flower, at diofe
timesthenelfe, whichargues like difference in the
motion of the wheele, and by confiquence of the
fitreame; the caufe is neitherany reflwxe, norflop of
cwrrent by winior otherwife, for there is no rncreafe
of water obferved: The other wonder is that where
thofe two great curreits meete, their waters mingle
no more then water,and oyle; not that either floats
aboveother, but joyne unmixed, fothatneere the
middle of the river, I have gone in a Boat,and ratled
of the Dan'nxy as cleare, and pure as a well, then putm
ting my hand not an inch further, I have taken of the
Sava as troubled as a ftreete channelltaffing the graveil in my teeth 5 yet did it not taft urnfiowa, as I ex.
peded, but hath fome other fecret ground of the s0 -tipatby which though not eafily found out, is very ef.
fetuall; for they run thus threefcore miles together,
and for a dayes journey, I have beene an eye wirneffe
thereof;
The Calfl/ is excellently furnifhed with Artillery,
and at the entrance, their flands an Arfe#4aff with
fome 40. or 5o. faire Braffc peeces, moft bearing the
Armes, and infcriptien of Ferdhiaudthe Emperour:
that which to me Reemed ftrangetl in this C4JYe, ( for
I had free liberrie to pry up,and downe ) was a round
Tower, called the ZindAria, a crueltie not by them
devifed, and feldome pra~ifed, it is like old Rome s
Gcmpnix; the Tower is iarge1and round; but within
feverecd




A Voyage into the Ler4nat.
fevered into many fquares of long beames,fet on end
about foure toot a funder; each beame was fthck frebuent with great flefh-hookes, the perfon condemned was naked let fall amongft thofe hookes, which
gave him a quicke, or lafting miferyas he chanc'd to
light: then at the bottome, the river is let in by
grates, whereby all purrifaftion was wafbt away:
Within this great Caf1le, is another little one, with
works of its owne; I had like to have mificarried,,
with approaching the entrance, but the rude noifc,,
and worfe lookes of the Guard, gave mne a timely ap.
prehenfion with fudden paffage, and humiliation to
(weeren them,and get off: for as I after learnt, there
is kept great part of the GranSigwior his treafure, toý
be ready when he warres on that fide the Empire; it
is death for any Tarke, or Chrjflia  to enter; and the
Capta.iie is never to goe forth without particular licence from the Emperuar  HRze the BaJha of Teme-ll
fioarjoynirg the people of Buda, and his owne, with
thofe of Belgrade, and Bofnahthey were held incaniped on the South/ide of the Towne, yet not Co Ceverely,.but tile Sp_4hyes, Jarizaries,and Ventariers,had
leave to go befbre to the generall Rendivouz, as they
pleafed, though moft of them flayed to attend the
Bahaes; they there expedted c.A.urath Ba/ha; he five
dayes after our arrivall, came in with few Foot, but
foure thoufand Horfe, ofche Spahy Timariets; fuch
brave Horfes, aud Men fe'dexrrous in the ufe of the
aunce I had not feene: then was made publique
Proclamation to hang all fuch lanizaries, as (houldl
be found behind rhefe Forces: with them-the next
day we Cet forward for $ophyawhich in twelve dayes.
J3 3,              WC2




n             A Voyage into the Levant.
we reacht  The Ba/haes did not goe all in company,
but fetting forth about an houre, one after another,
drew out their troopes irs length, without confution s
not in much exad order of File and Ranke, as neere
no enemy: in this and our former March,I much admired, that we had a Caravan loaded with Clothes,
Silkes, TiJfues, and other rich commodities, were fo
fafe, not only in the maine Army, but in ftragling
troopes, among(t whom we often wandred by rea.
fon of recovering the rewes Sabbath; but I found the
caufe to be the crueltie of Juflice., for thieves upon
the way are empaled without delay, or mercy; and
there was a saniacke with two hundred Horfe, who
did nothing but coaft up, and downe the countrey,
and every man who could not give a faire account of
his being where he found him, was prefently ftrangled, though not knowne to have offended: for their
juflice although not fo rafli as we fuppofe, yet will
rather cut off two innocent men, then let one efendor
cfcape; for in the execution of an innocent, they
thinke if hee be held guiltie, the example works as
well as if he were guiltie indeed; and where a con.
flant deniall makes the fati doubted, in that executi.
on,the refentment fo violent terrifies the more; therefore to prevent diforders fometimes, in the beginnings of warre,colourable punifhments are ufed, where
jf ones want: this fpeedy and remorceleffe feveritie makes that when their great Armies lye about any
Towne, orpaffe, no man is endamaged, or troubled
to fecure his goods; in which refped, it pretends
more effe&t upon a bad age then our Chriflian compaf(ion, which is fo eafily abufed, as we cannot raife
two,




A Voyage into the Lewant.


13


two, or three Compnies of Souldicrs, but thty pil.
fer,..and rifle whcrefoever they paffe: wherein the
want ofcrueltie upon delinquents caufes much more
opprefion of the!nnxcent, which is the greateef cruchric of all: yet without their Army, there want not
fcandals; for in theway, wepaffed by a PalRnga,
which is a Village fortified with mud walles againfi
Thieves; where we found a fmall Carav-4 to havcbeene affaulted the day before, and divers remaining
fore wounded: for through all curky, efpecially in
places defer; there are many cuuleutainers, or Outr.
awes, like the wild Jrijh, who live upon fpoyle, and
are nor held mcmbers of the State, but enemies, and
ufed accordingly: In all our march, though 1 could
not perceive much dffripline as not neere an adverfe
partie; yc I wondred to fee fuch a multitude fo
cleare ofcnfujion, 'violence, waVtt,flckne~f, or any other djforder; and though we were almoff threela
fcore thouiind, and fometimes found not a towne in
7. or 8. dayes - yet was there fuch pkcnriec of good,
Btiket, Rice, and Mutton, as wherefoever I paffed up,
and downe to view the Spahyes, and others.in their
tents, they~would. often make me fir, and eate 'with
them very plenrifulland well.The feverall Courts of
the ~a/baesVvere ferved in great atate4- each of themn.
having three or fourefcore Camels, bcfidcs fige or
feven (core Carts, to carry the  aggagge: and vvher
the Ba4hA himfelfe tooke lorfe, hee had five or fix'e
Coaches, covered vvith Clotk ofPfold, or rich tapefiry$.
to carry his vvives fome had vvith them; twelve or
fixteeme; theleattffen, vvhovvhen theyentred thec
Coach,there vvere men fet on each fide,holding up a
rOVVCe2Y.




14.           A Voyage into~the Lew'ant.
rowe of:apelry, to cover them frcnnbeing feene by
the people, although they were after the Ttfrkifb
manner muffled thatnothing but the eye could ap.
peare:behfde theft wivcs,each Ba/ha hath as many,or
likely more Catamiies, which are their ferious loves;
for their Wives are ufed ( as the 7ctrkes rhemfelves
told me ) but to dreffe their meat,to Laundreiff,and-.for reputation; The Boyes likely of twehle,or fourteene yeares old,.fome of them, not above nine, or
ten, are ufually clad in Velvet, or Scarlet, with guilt
Scymiotars, and bravely mounted, withfuamptuouefur-..xitre;- to each of them a Souldier appointed, who
walkes by his bridle,- -for his fafetie: when they are
all in order, there is excellent Sherbet: given to any
who will drinke; then the Ba/h~a takes Horfe, before
whom ride a doozen, or more, who with ugly
Drums, braffe Difhesand wind inflrurnents,noife along moft part-of the Journey: before all, there
goe Officers,who pitch his Tenr,where he fhall dine
or lodge: when meate is ferved up, efpecially at
night,all the people give three great Shoutes:Thefe
are the chiefe ceremonies I remember.
That which fecured, and emboldned my enquiry,
and paffige thefe twelue dayes March, was an accident the firft night; which was rhus:the CA"'pe being
pitch'4J on tbe Shoare of Thmubit,'J went, (but tips
moroufly) to (iew the Service about Marc b B4aJh4e
Court, where one of his favorite Boyes efpying mee
to be a, Stranger, gave miee a Cup of Sherbet; I in
tWM6ki and to makefriends in Court, prefented him
with a Pocket ~uokikwg ClZe, in a little Ivory Cafe,
witha cesbe; fuch as arc fold at Weftminflter.hdl1 for
foure




A Voyage into the Lepahnt.
foure or five flillings a piece: The youth much taken therewith, ran, and flewed itcto the Rajhaw, who
prefently fent for me, and making me fit, and drinke
Cauphe in his prefence, called for one that fpake Itas
fian; then demanding of my cosndition, purpofe, csmntrey., and many other particulars, it was my fortune
to hit his humour fo right, as at laft, he asked if my
Law did permit me to ferve under them going againtf
the Polacke who is a ChriflianP; promifing with his
hand upon his breaff, that if I would, 1' hould be
inrolled of his Companies, furnifhcbd with a good
Horfe, and of other neceffaries be provided with the
reft of his Houfhold; I humbly thanked him, for
his favour, and told him that to an Englifhman it
was lawfull to ferve under any -ho were in League
with our King, and that our King had not only a
League with the Gran Signior, but continually held
an EmbaJfadour at his Court, efleeming him the greareff Monarch in the World: Co that my Service there,
efpecially if I behaved my felfe not unworthy of my
Nation, would be exceedingly well received in Eng1
land; and the Polacke, though in name a Cbhrj/lias,
yet of a sea7, which for Idolatry, and many other
points, we much abhorred; wherefore the Englijb
had of late, helpt the MUfcevite againfi him., and
would be forwarder under the Turkes, whom we tor
only honored for their glorions actions in the world;
but alfo loved, for the kinde Commerce of, Trade
which we finde amongfl them: But a-s for m'ypreifent engagement to the warre, with tnuch -fbrow'", I
acknowledged my incapacitie',: by eafon I wanted
l4?;u&4ge;which would not only render me uncapable
C                 of




16-           A Voyage into the Leoant.
commanids,and fo unarervicea6/e, but alfo endanger me
in tuma Ilts,where I appearing a Stranger,and not able
to expreffh my affedlion, might be miflaken, and uied
accordingly; wherefore I humbly entreated his
Highneffe leave to follow my poore affaires, with
an eternall oblige to Blazon this honourable favour
wherefoever I came: He forthwith bade me doe as
liked me beft; wherewith I tooke my leave, but had
much confidencein his favour, and went often to obferve his Court. In this journey we pafled through a
pretty little towne, called Niffe; where we flayed
while the Jeives kept their Sabbaoptb: here a little be.
fore night, Wine having poffeft a hrnizary, and one
other Vtrke, who rode in my Coach, they fell outwith two countrey fellowes, and by violence tooke
an Axe from one of them, not to rob him, but for
prefent ufe thereof, which being done, I gave him
his Axe againe, as not willing in that place, to have
fo much as the beholders part in a quarrell: Thefe
feklowes dogg'd us: the fanizary they miflied, but at
mid-night came to our Coach where we dept, and
opened the cover; whereat I fpeaking in Italian,
they knew me; wherefore leav ing mee, they drew
the 7'rke by nccke) and fhlouiders, and gave him two
blowes with Scymitars, one over the arme, the other
upon the head, in fuch fort as we left him behind in
great danger of death: they fled, I was found there
all bloudy, and fo taken, had furely the next day
beene executed, but that within leffe then halfe an
houre, the hurt perfon comming to his fenfes, cleared
me, telling how it came,and by whom.
Thus in twelue daycs, we came to Sophby, the
chiefe




A Voyage into the Levant.                17
chiefe Citie (after the flrkih divifion) of Rulgory,
but according to the other GCeoraphy, it (lands in
(fdceddonid, upon thc confines ot iheffd3y;S nor bath
it yet loft the old Grecians civility, for of all the Cities
I ever paffed either in Chrijiendome, or without, I never faw any where a firanger is leffe troubled either
with affronts,or gaping: it Rlands almoft in the midif
of a long, and fruitfullvalley; on the NoerthJide about foure miles diffant, runnes a ridge of low hils;
SeUtb-w4rd three miles of (lands an high, and fleepe
mountaine, where Snow appeares all the yeare: the
Iets'es and Chrihiiapn have here the doores of their
houfes little above three foot high, which they told
me was, that, the Turkes might not bring in their
Horfes, who elfe would ufe them for Stables in their
travell; which I noted for-a figne of greater flavery
then in other places.
Here is the Sear of the Beglerbeg or Viceroy of all
Greece, by the Turkes called Rumely; with many
brave Mefd'beetoes,efpecially the great one in the middle of the Towne, and another on the Siuth-fide, with
a magnificent Co/edge: it hath many (lately Fanes
or Kirevanferitbes, and exquifite Bathes, the principall
bath a hot Founraine: Here the buineffe of our-Ca.
rava, ended-, nor had my f4nizdry much d cure to
take any of new; for he naturally having more eF
the Merckant in him, then of the Souldier, would no'b
goe further for feare of being forced to the warre5
wherefore he flayed twentie cayes at 5ophya, tillthe ~
Campe was removed, and the Grana Sigimer returned
to Covf~antinopk i Thus I neither f w the Epereours
Perfon,, nor the maine body of the C4rmy;. only
C 2             hercia




A Voyage into the Levant.
herein was my fucceire (hort: as foone as the Ianizal
ry thought the coaft cleare, we went foure Coaches in
three dayes to Potarzeeke: the paffage is famous for
intiquities: fixteene, or eightcenc miles Eaji-ward'
of sophya, we paft over the [ill Rhodope where orphe.
us laninci&d his Euridice: it. hath divers inequalities
of ground, none very fleepe, -Ill covered with Low
Woods, now watched with divers, who by reafbn
of the frequent robberies there committed, doe by
little Drmmý, give the inhabitants Warning of all fufT.
piciouspaffengers: in the loweff of thofe defcenrs
runnes a little Brooke, of which I conjectured, and a
learned Jew, ( to whom I owe molt of my information), confirmed, that the old Poets had made the Ri.
ver strywo'on,  where the difconfolare orpheus was
come in pieces by the fhpraciaa Dames; for that place
hath ever beene uncertainly reckoned, to Macedonia,,
Thrace, and Theffaly.
At laft wecame to an high-, and large mountaine,
of a dayes journey over; the lew held it to be tie
Thermapyle; a place as ftoutly contefted for of old,
as now the raltoline with. us; herewith he told me
that EaF/erue cuftome of wearing Turbants came
from thence; and that how once the Barbarous peom
ple having the Grecian Army at a great:advantage,
there was no other remedy, but that fome few
ihould make good that narrow pafifage, while the
maine of the Art-y might efcape aw-ay;5 there were,
brave Spirits who undertooke it; and knowing th'ey
went to an unevitable death, they had care of now
thing but Sepultoriur, which of old was much regarded; wherefore each. of thcm carryed his windixg
fheetc




A Voyage into th      Leant.                19
ihecte wrapt about his head, and then with loffe of
their owne lives faved their fellowes:whereupon for
an honourable memoriall ofthat exploit, the Levantines ufed to wrap white linnen about their heads, and
thefafhion fo derived upon the Turke.
This may be the Story of Leonidas with his three
hundred Spartanes, but corrupted by time, and tradition: when I had confidered the paffage, it feemed
capable of his relation 5 and this might well be the
Thermopyle, if they were fo neere the Philippick
Fields; for befide his confeffion. the tradition of
divers there inhabiting, and all concordance of Stories affure us, that the Cbampaigne betweene this
c.Mountaine and Philippopoli5, of above fortie or fifty
miles long,was from that Citie built by Philip,called
Campi Philippici, famous for the Roman civill warres,
there decided in two Battels; the firft betweene Cefar,.
and Fompey; The other betweene Augu^lu and
Marke Antony, againft Bruts and caffis: the Plaine,
but thatic is a Valley, much refembles our Downes
of Marleborough, where the Saxons as it is thought
had a great Battell: for jufl in that manner, there yet
remained the heapes were the flaine were buried, and
good part of the Trenches: the two Battels were
fought fixteene or eighteene miles afunder, as appeares by the Sepulchers, and the Trenches; Cafars.
was next the Hill; the other neerer Philippopoli.:
which for want of other authoritie, I conjeduredc
thus; Firft, in Cafars Battell there dyed but fifteene
thoufand, two hundred; in the other almoft twice
as many;.this proportion is made good in the heaps,,
thofe toward Philisopli being greater, and much
C  3              more




20              A Voyage into the Levant.
more in number then the ocher: then Cefar Writes
that after Pompey., and the maine of his Army was
fled, a refidue not yet difperft retired-to a hill fixe
miles of, 'which had a River runne under it; This
fquares right with a hill on the South-Jide of Potarzeeke, a little Towne betweene the two Campes, and
where my two dayes abode, gave me leafure to reade
Csefar his Commentary thereon, which on purpofe
I carryed to conferre upon the Place, for the better
impreflion: This Potarzeeke had it not beene re.
- markeable for the place, was not worth,, mention;
for it is but a [mall Towne reckoning not above foure
thoufand houfes, butis very pleafant with hilles, and
a River Sowtl& ward.
Hencc we paffed Eadi-ward, through the reff of
the Plaine along the Monuments of Brutwa, and Caf
fihi his defeature: the Tummli are many, fome grear,
fome fmull, more or leffe clofe together, as the
(laughter hapned, and reach at leaft eight or nine
miles in length, extending as it feemes the flight did,
towards Jhilippopolii, now in Tarkijb called Philibee,
where in two dayes we arrived.
A little before the cite, on the North-flde, wee
faw the Gran Signier his Stable of Camels, where is
Place, and Order for five thoufand Camels, which carry his provifion when he Warres on this fide his Em.
pire; and then the generall Rendikupz ufes to be in
rhefe Philippick Fields, now termed the Plaine of Pow:arzeeke, through which alfo runnes the River Mesritffi~ in fome places called Hebrud,fhallow but very.
broad: over this River at the North entry of Pby.
kbeeis a vafe Wooddco Bridge, wore then a quarter
of




A Voyage into the Leats.                  21
ofa mile long; Through the middeft of this Citie,
from North to south, runnes a ridge of rocky hilles,
partly taken up with buildings; the reff with Sepultures, among which I found a little Greeke chappeli, built in the old Gentilifme; as a Greeke told me,
and it appeares alfo by the round forme, with equall
divifion of Altars 3 there remaines nothing remarkable: After five dayes flay, we went foure dayes
journey through many pretty Townesof Thrace, till
we came to the chiefe Cictie thereof, and one of the
principall in all Turky: This is Andrinonle in Turk/hb
feidriaxce, of Hadria*, who repaired it: originally
it was flyled orerFa from its Founder j for as the
Greekes there pretend, it was built by oreftes Sonne
to Agamemonm: Vntill the conqueft of Co;flantisnpe, it was the Tarkes Emperiall Seat: North-Eafj
North, and North-We/f, lye certaine Low and eafie
hilles, amongfk which glides the little River Tuny,
from the Norbh-Jfide, of the Citie to the W0ef, where
meeting a branch of the Mariyj4, it paks a mile or
more South-Eaft, where jpyning with the other
branch, it runs (tately through the adjoyniog Plaine,
on which zerxes firff Mutered his vafte Army,whep
he had patffed the Hellefent.
This Citic among divers other names, -hath beene
called Trimontium, becaufe it flands upon three little
hilles, or rather one low Hill, with three eminenrcies;
the middeft is the higheft, and largeft, upon the top
whereof,as the crowne, and glory of the other buildings, flandsa f(lately cMefcheeto built by SulIan slyman the Second, with foure high, and curious
spyis, at each corner one, as the manner of Turky is,
not




I


22


1  A Voyage into the Le'ant.;not upon the Church like our steeples, but from the
Greund; ý each of them hath* three rounds on the out.
fide, for the Priesis walke, and at the top a great..GlObe, and hdlfe-moone of Gold: The Body of the
crMeskeet# like thofe of Cotr#n,# inople ( though farre
more curious) -is at the botteme quddr-angu14ar., having foure Stories in heighth-; the two uppermofit
t7o contrraded, as that divifion which quarters the
two lowefi into foure anges a piece, cafts each of
them into eight; at either a~gle of the upper Rory is
a great round Pyrmmide.: they fupport the roofe, in
forme roundand eminenr,all covered with Lead, upon the top whereof is fet a globe of Gold, whereon
Itand a golde*piAir, andoanalfe-moome: at thebotrtome of this bu'ildinare  made ten cvndaits with
-Cocks, on the Norh jide,- and ds many on the South,
for peopke'to wafh before Diviie-Seurice; to Which
tfe alfo on the Weft-Jide, in the Churcih-yardare thirty,
or forrie,Cocks under a fountaine fo famptsuwo, as excePting one at Pakrmo, e1 hIveinot feeheea better in
-chrjfleundome; on the Ea/--Jide ý are the chiefe Proiejs
lodgings, and garden; round the Church.y4rd are
Acloyjiers, Bathes, a Celledge with lodging for Friejis,
and other neceffary offt-res, all covered: with large
round Toxvre"Is o-f Lead: This ediffce is not great, but
of ftrudure fo neate, and that fo advantaged by frcitu
46i0D, as renders it not only ftately, and magnificent,
but with fuch tdelicaey as I have not feene in any 0 -ther placeno not in Italy  Befide this Mes ketoethere
is another:braYe one with foure Spyresf, built by Soltra selym, and many other of two a piece, with faire
Colledges, Cloyflers, and Batkes, equall to the c.Moxaf/erie;




A Voyage into the Leant.                   23
"fleries of any one Citie in Chr:ifendeme, for qualitie,
though not in number: it hath alfo many faire Hones,
all covered in like manner; fo likewife are their Befefleins, or Exchanges, whereof it hath foure or five,
fome not much inferiour to ours in London, efpeci.
ally one, which I gueffed halfe a mile in length, and
richly furnifht with Wares: the chiefe Bridges are
foure, vafte, and high, all of Stone: from the southbridgeis the beft view of the Citie, where it makes a
gallant fhew. There yet remaine the walles of the
old Towne, which now containe the fourth, and worft
part, inhabited by Zinganaes, chriflians, lewes, and
others efteemed as refufe people: A little without
the Citie North-ward, ftands the Gran Signior his
Serraglio, with a Parke walled, fome three miles
compaffe: The Palace is very low, all covered with
Leadrifing up for a flat, into a fharpe round, and
feemes but like a Garden-houfe for pleafure: it is kept
by his t.A'gemoglans, to entercaine, not only the Gran
Signior but in his abfence, auy Bajhde, or other principall minifter.
After ten dayes flay at t4ndrinople, we rode up
and downe as bufineffe required, to Burgaz, Churlo,
and divers other pretty Townes, all of them adorned
with daitie cUeskeetees, colledges, HIofIitals, Hanes,
and Bridges; for it is in Turky as in other Kingdomes; the neerer to the Imperiall Citie, the more
ftately is the countrey inhabited: having thus travelled fixe dayes, we came to selibree, of old selymbria; no great Towne, but bigger then the reft, and
very ancient; the old CaflIe and walles not quite demolifhed: It flands upon the south.endof a long,
D                   but




__ ___.-__ ------ 


24.


A Voyage into the Levanta,


but low hill: the ocher three points are encompaffed
by sed, with a rocky, and unfafe Port; from whence
on the other fide of the flay, you may difcerne a
round Hill, upon which remaine fome ruines of the
old Citie Heraclea: Here we (layed two dayes, then
with fome diverfion, in three more, we reacht Cono
f/sentinopk: Thus had we made from Spalttro Liftic
two dayes journey, and as many in feverall abodes;
ever lodging upon the ground, for the molt part, in
open Fields; and pafling by land fifteene hurdrcth
miles Engl/h; not in the dired way, for that had
beene Iborter, 6u t as led by the bufineffe of the e-vies,
who were Patrons of the Caravsen: Confoantinopte
by the Turkes called Stsembole, (which as they told
me fignifies fisith, and plentie) hath an uncertaine
originall: is famous for its ruine under the Empe.
rour Sevuertu, and its reparation by Conflantime: o.
them times it hath beene fackt, -but finally Inn. 14+ 3.
loft by another Confiewntine, as the former fonne to
another HYelen w in this loioh it may be faid to gaine;
for it is fince at an higher glory, then it had before,
being made Head of a farre greater Empire: of old
it was ever baited, by the Tbracians on the one fide,
and Grecaians on the other; but now it commands over both: I flayed here but five dayes, whereforecI
had not leifure for much obfervation: in this halt,
I put my thoughts upon two points; Firfi, to view
the chiefepabliqeflghts-, then to confider the judge.
ment ofthofe ancient Emperors,who fo often thought
of transferring the Seat of the Empire from Rome,
thither: for the firft; the Emperomrs Perfon I could
not fee, who was then at Sclttri which is as it were
part




A Voyage into the Leant.                2N
part of Conflantinople, though fevered by the mouth
of the blacke Sea a mile over: The Seraglio Ifaw
as farre as Strangers ufe, having acceffi into the ic.
cond Court: The building low, and outwardly but
meane 5 with a low Cloyjler of many f mall pi/ari *
the infide I faw not; but an infinite fwarme of of.
ficers, and Attendants I found, with afilence, and reze.rence,fo wonderfull,as fhew'd in what awe they fland
of their Soveraigme - A flones caff from the outermoll entrance ftands that famous old CIjrch San/i~
Sopbya; thence went Ito fee the other cuskeetoes
that ofM~bomet the Second, who wonne the Todwne;
that of Acbmat which is the moft fpendid of all;
into that of Saltan Solyman I went to view it throughout, but found it no way equall to his other at dn.
drinople, which in my eye is much more Magnilicenr,
then any of rhofe at conJlantinople: Then faw I the
Egyptian obeluk, the Brazen pillarof three Snakes,
the aquedmii, and many other things, with that horrid gap made by fire, Antx. 1633. where they report feventie thoufand houfes to have perified: The
other, and chiefe part of my contemplation, conlifed
in the fcituation; which of all places, that I ever be..
leld,is the moft -apt, to command the world; for by
land it hath immediate commerce with Greecer,2race
and from Sctoari with,4fla: By Sea the Pintwa or
blacke Sea, and the Marmora or Helieefnt, not only
furnifh it with infinite flore of Fifh in Port; but ream
dily carry their commodies abroad, and bring others home S and which is above all, the mourhes of
both thofe Seas are fo narrow as no paffhge can bec
forced againft the cailes 5 fo as for flreogtb, plentie,
D.            and




2          A Voyage into the Levant.
and commoditieno place can equall it: Then it flands
almofi in the middle of the World, and thereby capable of performping commands over many Countryes, without any great prejudice of ditlance; the
want whereofcaufed that the authoritie of Rome,
could never reach the Parthians, and hardly Germany,
and raifed that, that maxime left by Augfltsr -- coercendes Imperii terminos: for hee who confiders the
fudden accidents of State, with the difficulties of reknote Forces,and other difatches, muff needs acknowledge the neceffirie of (as it were) a cdathematicall
correfpondence from the Cexter,to the CircumfereNce;
this perhaps the Crown ofspaine finds too true;whofe
greatneffe could not elfe in the skirts of its Empire,
receive fuch blowes, from fuch pettie enemies as it
does. In that I obferved no more of fo great a Citie,
I doe not much accufe my felfe; for the chiefe time
I had to view, was my firft two dayes,when I lodged with the Turkes, in the lane of t..ehemet EajI4;
afterward I fhifted into Chriflian habit, and went over to Galata, where I was very courreoufly entertained in the houfe ofan Englijb Gentleman, to whom
I was recommendeds Next after I had kified the
hands of the right Honourable, Sir Peter Weych Lord
Embafadosr for His cJ1ajefy of England, I tooke an
inftant opportunitie of paffage for Egypt, upon the
Blake Seds Fleet, which three dayes after departed
for c..4lexandria: here I found the company of a
French Gentleminan,and a Flemiqh 5we embarqued upon the Admirall caleon, hyring to our felves the Gan.
sers Roome, of the Mafters thereof, who were two
Renegadoes that fpake good Italian;  traite wee fet
Sayle




A Voyage into the Levant.                  27
Sayle forth of the Aarmora, downe the Hellefont in
all 8 6. VeffTels, in two dayes arrived at Callippoly, fo
named of the French, whofe fury hath many old
Nonuments in the Levant; here wee lay at Anchor
that night, flaying for fame commiffions which were
to come after, or as I rather conjedured, for newes
of the Rhodian Gallyes, which the next day met us a
little below the CaJfl,, to be our Convoy againft
Fyracy, or Chriflians: Some thirtic miles beneath
Gallippoly is the ftreighteft paffage of the HelUleJont,
not above halfe a mile broad; a place formerly famous for Zerxes his Bridge, but much more glorious
in the loves of Hero, andLeander: Thefe Cafiles
called the Dardawelli, command the pa/fage, and are
the fecuritie of Conflantinople on that fide: That upon Europe anciently seflos, is made with two Towers,
one within the other; the inmoft higheft,. by reafon
of the rifing ground uponwhich they fland, each
bearing the forme of three Semi-circles, with the outwall Triangular: The other upon the Afian Shoare,
is farre fironger, flanding on the Marifh levell; it is
of forme fquare with foure round Turrets, at each
corner one; in the middle before flands an high
fquare Tower commanding over all: This formerly
was named Abydos,not that the buildings remaine the
fame,but often reedified in the fame place: we paffed
foleifurely as gave me time to note the d4rtillery,
which I found thin aloft, but plentifull at the bottome upon the ground, looking out at feverall holes
made in the foundation of the walles, which ftriking
in a levell, hits a Ship betweene wind and water, and
is a plantation much more effe6uall then that above.
D  3            About




, +




Ii,


z8 A Voyage into the Le^ant.
About fome fortie miles Sayle forth of that areight,
on the Ajianfide, we reachr cape Janizar, anciently
Promontorium Stgum, where Troy ftood, of which
nothing remaines to be feene, but a piece of an old
wall fome fortie or fiftie paces long,hard by the Sea,
and therefore faid by virgil to have beene built by
Neptirne: So hath that famed Towne now put on
immortalitie,having no exqlern9,buc in Poetry: whofe
fiajons by complying with the fancy of man, uphold themfelves beyond the 1?ealitie oftheir Sx&jea r
Befide the conceit of fuch a ruine, I tooke care to
confider the jdgement of Antiquitie, in the Scituation;
which I finde not to have beene extraordinary, either forpleafure, commoditie, orflrength: The Promontory makes an angle which hath two fides encompatWed by Sea; from Soutb-wefi to Wefj, with a compaffe turning from Weji to North; on the other fide
lyes a barren fandy Plaine now termed Troade, which
fome fitteene or twenrie miles from Sea, is environed by a ridge of Hih'cs, the moft eminent whereof,
the 7irkes at this day call Jde, whereby I acknowledged it for that 1da, where Prince Paris retiring
from all wife affaires of State, and preferment of
Court, lived an effeminate, and luxuriota life; which
clad in Fat/c, fames him there to have preferred YexM before Minerva, and Juno; and to have given
her the goldexfruit of his youth, for which (he favoured him in the Rape of MeIen  but becaufe neither Miverva nor lumo affifled that impreafe,therefore
it proved both unwife, and difbonourable: About
two leagues Weji-ward, is the little i/and T-enedos,
knowne for concealing the Grecian Navy at the taking
of




A Voyage into the Lep~'ant.            29
of Troey  hence fayled we downe the Archipeldagp)
through thofe Ilwds fo voyced for Antiquities--NiuA
inm fmie nomme f4xam: Among them my eye fele.
(ted Samos, Scia, and Pathmos; for the wind Steering
larbord drave us within difcovery thereof: Sames. is
the only place in the World, under whofe Rocks, grow Spunges l, The people from their infancie, are
bred up with dry Bisket, and other extenuating Dyer,
to make them extreme leane - then taking a sponge
wet in OyIe they hold it, part in their mouthes and
part without, Co goc they under water, where at firft
they cannot (tay long, but after pradtife, Comne of the
leaneft Aay above an houre and a halfe, even till all
the Oyle of the- Spunge be corrupted; and by the
Law ofthec f/nd, none of that Trade is fuffered to
marry, untill he have flayed halfe an houre under
water 5 thus they gather Spunges from the bottome
of rocks,more then an hundred fathom deepe; i rhich
with many other Stories of thefe I/a4ds was told, me
by certaine Greeks in our Gal/rom. Svin is rernarkeable
for u~-fJc ke-noct elfc-where found, and there only
upon the seothfide of the Hill, whi~ch I thought to
be as aplmnt not enduring the cold wind;, or contrary
'vapors of the Nortb,, They imputed- it to St* Theodors teares lead that way to Martyrdome, yet unlei h
he trverfed much ground, many ofchofe trees grow
where he never came:- I applauded. their 6eliefc but
kept my owne: Pathmos is renowned for many adions of Saint John: I fanficd none, till the Greekes
pointed out a Rocke under which they'affirmed toabe
a Grot, wherein hee wrote his Apocalyps.: In Come
Points things onfeyated are imitated bythe ordinary.way es~




- I __


30


3A Voyage into the Lrvant.


wayes ofnen; to infiance in prophane pieces &iiand'omet was two yeares in a gret, writing his Alcerdn, the
Sy6jL's moft lived and prophecied in grots, as my
felfe have feene hers at Came, as alfo the fludy and
habitation of rirgil in agru:,ar mount Pofilipo; many
old Oracles were delivered out of Cavernesor Grots;
in fumme the higheft fanfies of men, have beene pro.
duced in fuch places; which in thofe who -have no
Divrine crCdir, I impute, partly to the privacy, and
ajec7 of tho(e retreats, which being gloomy, filt, and
felemne, fettle, and contrad the minde into profound
fpeculation; but efpecially to the qualirie of the
ire, a thing of maine importance to difpofe the wit,:
the~yre of thofe rocky Cavernes is not fo dampe and
earthy, as that of dungeons, nor fo immateriall, or
wafting, to unfettle and tranfport the phantajie, as that
above ground; but of a middle temper, wherewith
it affe6&s the braine in fuch a fort as is fitteft to exercife its intdlef/#a llfacultie, to the heighth of what its
compefition beares: Thus after we had in eleven dayes
pafled i~e Southerne, and greatefi part of Jiyffes his
ten ' eares voyage, wC came beforesRhodes, at the Eaft
6kd of the rlandfwhere wve entred the Wind-mill Porto
fioftamed by reafon of many ' Wind-mills Itanding be..
fore it5 hard by is there another Port more inward,
for the Gal1yes, and of entrance fo (hallow, as is not
capable of deepe Vefl~Is: here we flayed three dayes,,which gave mhe fome view of the place, and that fo
much the more by being taken for a Spy; for in
Rhbodes is no pretence of Merchandize for a Chrofidn;
and but that my excufe of going upon wager into Ef
gyp: femcd pofible, I had here beene loft: yet in
that




A Voyage into the L' erant.           31
thatvfaJitidn,fome of them out of fuch a bravery, 9s
I had once before found in their Catspe, thewed wee
the Palace or Fortreyfe of the Grtud cafter formerrly, with the Out-works, and three great deepe ditches,
all cut in the quicke rocke round the Caffle, except
one part where irjoynes with the chiefe fireet: then
they (hewed mee a high window towards the-Weft,
telling me this Story; 'that when SuItarn solymatn befieged the Towne, there flood in that window, the
Graf  c4ayler, with a Nephew of his, and a chiefe Ena
gesiere;they confidering the Caimp,the Engemiere told
him they were happy that the enemy knew not the
advantage of fuch a place pointing to the tide of a
hillwhere certaine Wind-mills fland; for quoth he,
ifthey fhould plant the Artillery there, we were loft;
herewith the young Nephew in hopes of preferment,
tooke fecretly fome Thrktjh Arrowes, and from the
window, (hot them into the Campe, haying firft
wrt upon them this d~tervery, and his #ame: they
being found, the advice was approved,and put in cxecutien,which forced the Towne in three dayes to render: SDlymal according to the Rule of Princes more
b6a've, then Politicke, caufed theTraitor to be put to
death: This Citie on the Eift, and Nrbtk, is encompaffed by se4i; the SDbth, and WOt joyne by land to
the refa of the!Iav d; it flands upon a little hill,reaching to the bortome thereof; it is foure miles from
the old Citric, which flood upon a fteepe bigh hill,
where now remaine part of the walles, and a poore
Village.
I zooke a Boat ta view the place where the CelIJfw
L0Iýat tb cntmy of that Haven: there is notieft
E                 any




3z A Voyage into the Loa'6rnt.
any remainder of that Statue; but the rocks whereon
his footing was,are wide enough for two great ships.
to paffe both together: why the Caveliers did -tranf:
fer their Seat from the old Citie, to the new, I could
not learne, unlefif it were for the Port; which being
obvious to all commers, they had rather occupy it
them[elves, then leave it to an invdder: within the
Citk the Armes of France are very frequent, the Span/b, and Imperiall, not in more then two or three pla.
ces; ours not at all; whereby I proportioned the
old nxatienall intereffe in that order: The moft egregious Momuments of any one Granxc.ZlaJer, is of Pe.
ter d' Ldubijjfo a French man ther,egoverning above
two hundred yeares fince: he amongfl other notable
works, built a round Tower, with many retired
circles for combatants: In the Wall before the Ha.
'veoto fcowre the mouth thereof' he made two huge
Braf/c 'Pieces,fo vafte as I never faw anyfixe Cannon,
whofe mettall could make the leaft:of them: In this
/ancd the Sunne is fo power/u/I, and conisint, as it was
anciently Dedicate to Phabx/: they have a kinde of
Grape as big as a Damfen, and of that colour, the
rines ifwateredbeare all the yeare,both ripe Grapes,
balfe ripe, and knots; all together upon the fame
Vine: yet that they may not weare out too foone,
they ufe to forbeare watering of them in December,
and January, during which time theybeare nor, till
after a while that they are watred againe: Vpon my
girl landing I had efpyed among divers very hemomu.
rbl/c -Spruxtores, one more brave then the reft, and
new; I inquired whofe it was; a curke not know.
ing whencc.1 ws, told me it was the Gaptaise Bjlka,
/hire.

I




A Voyage into the Leant.                33
flaine the yeare before by two Englifh Ships I and
therewith gave fuch a Language of our Nation, and
threatning to all whom they fhould light upon, as
made me upon all demands profeffe my felfe aScotchman, which being a name nnknowne to them, faved
mee, nor did I fuppofe it any quitting of my Countrey, but rather a eetreat from one corner to the other; and when they required more in particular, I
intending my ownefafetie more then their infrutiion,aafwered the truth both of my King, and Country,
but in the ould obfolete Greeke, and Latine titles,
which was as darke to them as a difcourfe of Ifis, and
ofyris; yet the third day, in the morning, I prying
up, and dowae alone,met a Turke who in Italian told
mee,ah! are you an Engl/fman, and with a kinde
of malicious pofture, laying his forefinger under
his eye, me thought he had the lookes of a defigne,
he prefently departed, I got to my Galleon, and durft
goe to land no more: The next morne wee departed
for Alexandria of Egypt, accompanied with ten ordinary Gal/lyes of Rhodes, and three old ones, which
went to bee fold for fewell: the weather although
right in Sterne, grew fo high, as the three old Galleys peri(hed, two in the night with all their people,
the third by day in our fight, but defpairing by
times made up to a Galleon neere ours, and faved fuch
of her men who were neither chained, nor otherwife
encombred; after three dayes full Sayle wee arrived
in Port 5 Alexandri' firft built by Alexander the Great,
was after beautified by many, but efpecially by Pormpey  it beares yet the Monuments of its ancient glo.
ry: Pillars in great number, and Size both above
E 2            ground




34,            A Voyage into the Leurnt.
ground, and below, mofi of Porp/iyry, and other,
c~marb4 as irine: The ancient EgTp ia -had a cu-I
Rtome now notin ufe;j, that was to make as great a
part ofthe houfe beneath ground.as above: that be.0
low was the moiL coftly with Pillars, and rich Pave-,
ments for refrefhment beingy their Summer habitari.,
on:the upp~er part had the vafter pillars for fbiew.)but
not the neareft: above all the reft, there arc threefarre beyond any that I ever faw elfe-where:That of
XPAmpy where his allies were laid, upon the rocky
ibore hard'by where bee was flamne in a Boat at Sea:
it is round, all of one Ltone, a kinde of reddifh gray
Marbk, fo wonderfully vafl, as made me fahire his
mem ory with the Poets Propheticall hayle-.TewpIu4
aureque-feP~tka.vih,#r mwbrAfres: it flands upon a
fourc-fquare rocky foundation on the South-lide.-of
the Towne without the Walkes: Within on the
N~~orth towards. the Sea are two fquare obelufkes
each of one entire ftone full of Egyptid MNyer~ejzi
pkiksj, the one flanding the 4*her fallen, I thinke ei'
diet of them thrice as bigge.as that at Conli.Jit~ineple,
or the other at Rome, and thecrefore lef behind as to
heavy fmr transportation: ntere thefe Obdu~kes, are,
the ruines of- Cleeopsraes Palace high up-on the fliore,.
with the private Gate, whereat fliec received her.
murko d4toxy after their overthrow at Aakuma: two~
ftow-es caft further upon another rocke over the (hiore
is yect a round Tower one p-art of Akexansders Palace,
where yect in the. walles remaines a paffage -of Bricke
Pipes part of a wodiduil: The Towne is now alMOft
ntbting but a white heape of wuines; efpecially. the,
E4~aZKSA~  pats:The Walks were high, and
frequently




A Voyage into the Lvant.             35
frequently fee with fiall Turrets, but not very
firong except toward the Sea, where they fiand up.
-on great fteepe rockes: The North, and Weif are
wafhed by the Sea, which makes two Pores, each in
forme of a halfe-Moone: betwene them runnes a
long narrow necke of land joyned once by a Bridge,
but now made firme land, with that then an -land
called the?lIarus:a place which in Casart judgement
did command both the Port, and Towne; of which
opinion the Turkes now are; and therefore contrary
to their ufuall cuftome, they have there built a brave
new Caatle, which anfwers another little one on the
other point of the Haven: thefe command the en.
try broad at leafi a mile, and halfe; but how it could
be done before Artillery came up as csfar affirmes I
wonder;- nor are the Banks wider by time, as apo
peares by the walles, and old circuit of buildings upon the (hoare S on the Weft fide of the PhAros, and
under proted1ion thereof, is the other Port only for
Gailyes,as too fal I of fhielves,and rocks for deepe bot-a
tomes.; Frefh water is brought to Alexamdria in a
large, and deepe channell cut by men, almoft foure.
fcoremiles, through the wilderneflfe to the Nile:
this channell is dry till the R*rw over.flowes, then
runnes it into the Citie, but fo low as they are forc'c
to get it up by chained buckets, and wheeles drawne
with oxen; Co is it conveighed,and kept in Ciflerm:t,
whereof now there remaine but fige hundred, of two
thoufand at the firfi: The earth caft-out of thofe C4.
trvner,hath made two faire mountsupon one whereo
of'is fee aWatch-tower, to give warning-of Shipr
upo the Suvib of the Towne lycs that vaft fandy,
E3               Plaine,




A Voyage into the Lcemat.
Plaine, great part taken up with the falt Lake Marevo
14#* Eaji-ward not farre from the Sea, we rode thorow a fandy defartj-iome 40.Miles toRofetto: All E.
gypt where the Nile arrives notisnothing but a whia
tith Sand bearing no graffe, but two little weeds, called Suhit, and Ga=#11, which burnt to afbes, and conveighed to renice, make the finefi Chrijiag GlGaflrs.*
yet are there many fort of trees, nourifhed by no
moifture, but the night dew which-is abundant, for
if] Egypt it fcarce raines once in three or foure ages:
above all, infinite number of Palmes grow every
where with Dates as bigge as both ones thumbs: In
the Plaine, the winde drives the Sand into folds, like
Snow- with us; fo as if any winde flirre, no tracke of
Man, or beafts lafts a quarter ofanhoure, wherefore
to dire tpaffengers, there arefet up round Bricke
pillars,flve, or fixe yards high, one within a mile of
another, which put mee in minde of the Ifrae/ites
being guided forth of Egypt by Pillars: Thus in a
day, and a halfe, came we to Ro#fttto, formerly Caflopu; a pretty little Cirie, it fiands upon the Nile,
foure miles from its entry into the Sea: once it was
famous for all manner of Luxury; now it want nothing thereto, but Art, and afoftgozvernment: Here
we hyred a Boat for Gran Cairo, 360. miles off: in
five dayes we arrived, through againft the ftreame,&
about the higheft of the Inundation; for the Northwef winde heipt us well: All that long way, wee
fcarce paffed fouremiles, but wee found a pretty
Towne upon the banks, likely one of each fide, oppofite; which if Tuirkifh they were high built, of
bricke or other firine ftonebut ifArabdif, aid Egypttian,






A Voyage into the Lc'wnt.


37




- --MGM


6mjj, the houfes were moft of mud, juft in forme of
Bee-hki es: The Nvile at the higheft is ordinary neere
a mile, and a quarter over, ftnetimes making a great
pla(h of profitable ground; much benefit of the 0.
verfiow is made by ditches, and Gardens, watred
with w'heeles drawne by oxen: as farre as the river
waters, is a blacke mould Co fruitfull, as they doe
but throw in the feed, and have foure rich harvefis,
in leffe then foure moneths: nioff part of the Banks,
is fet with daintie Sugar Cares, Flaxe, and Rice: In
the way, the winde failing, our Water.men drawing
the Boat with ropes from land,there came tixe ofthe
wild Arabsfive on Horfebacke, one a foot;each with
a Launce, which they can ufe, in hand, or dart, very
dextroufly; our Boat-men rogues of the fame race,
flood (till, that they might take the ropes, whereat
the Janizary, a afout,and honeft Turke difcharged his!Iarquebuze at the Horfemen, who wheeling about,
came fpeedily agaiae, where finding two of us with
Piffols,guarding the ropes, and awing our Boatmen,
they durft not come on; nor were they fuddcn in
flight, but that the Idanizary let flee once more, and as
feemed to us, tufted through one of their 7'rbants;
then away they ran: Finally we arrived at that part
of Gr4n Cayre called Bulalkbe, where wee got direadion to the Palace of a YenetzaWi Gentleman the Illufrirf.
fine Sigoior Sanlo Seghezzi,--whofe. noble way of living gives reputation to his Countrey, & prote6lion
to all travellers in thofe parts: here my late compae
nions -flayed but. few dayes; for over come with
kat, and fpirited by deovtion, they haftned to returne
by feruof,4Ie I not fo~impacient of the Climate, nor
loving




C


8


A Voyageinto the Leoant.


40NOM     'Ow ý--                           -
loving company of Cbrifians in Tarky, and but reafonably affeted to reliques, left them, and prefumed
to receive a longer entertainment: whereto I found
an invitallfreely noble of it felfe, and with much regard to an honourable -recommendation of me fent
by his Excellexce the Lord EmbIaffador of HefRnd at
cONJa tinople,Sir Cornelims!faga;who having known
my kinfman Sir fames Blount, and fome others of our
name: was pleafed in mee, to honour their memory:
Here my abode in a Family which had there beeae
refident twenrie five yeares, informed me of many
things, with much certaintie: Firt,I muft remember things upon recordconflantly renewed in office, as
the multitude ofthe Meskeetoes, that is charches, and
Chappels five, and thirtie thoufand; then the noted
fireets, foure, and twentie thoufand, befides petty
turnings, and divifions; Come ofthofe ilreets I have
tound two miles in length, fome not a quarter to
long: every one of them is lockt up in the night,
with a doore at each end, and guarded by a Muskettier, whereby fire, robberies, tumalts, and other diforders are prevented.
Without the Citie, toward the wilderwefe,to flop
fiudden incurflons of the Arabs from abroad, there
Watch on Horfe-backe foure Saniacks, with each of
them a tboxfand Horfemen: Thus is this Citie every
night in the yeare, guarded with eight, and twentic
thofaird men.
The eextrtvaga w proportious,argued fuch a Size
ofthe maine body, as made me defire an entire view
thereof; which i got in feverall places, but heft of
ah from the top of the oklý which is-iounded
upon




A Voyage into the Letsnte
upon a rocky afcent, on the Eafl fide of the Citie: it
is not quite decayed, nor diligently kept; but held
rather as the Ba#haes Palace, then a Fortrejfe; nor did
I'difcerne any Artil-lery therein: it was built by the
old So/dan:, and their c.vamnalukes, and that in fuch
a fort, as reftifies their government to have beene ty.,
ranota, andftately: there yet remaine in obe arched
place, forrie pillars of rorphiry as bigge as tho~fe two
of Saint tMarkies at Veniz~e: at the foot of this hill i's
a place, fome halfe a mile long, where they exercife
their great Horfe; bard by fiands a lirtle Houfie, and
Garden all under the cal/es view, therein the Eafiaes of Gran Cairol, when depofed are kept, untill
they are either prefired or firangled:- So Potext is
that office eftcemed, and fo full or- State fecrets, as
may not be left unaffhred, -but by Satj~fajMi 1$ or
Death: beyond this Caflk, lyes the Plaine fiindy defart, which enctompatfls the Etj*, North, and North-.
wedi of the Citie: from the Casftle, to the Nile fome
three miles throuigh old Ca4iro, vxtends an aqaedu a.
farre more Jlixely, and ve~fte, thenrirher that of con.flantixople, or the other, at Rome:- The Nile runnes
along the Soutk of the Towne to the Weft; making
at its firfi arrivall, a dainrie little' i/ad, where Ainongft many fine buildings, aland t~he Ni/friope:
which is a little Caglec, wherein is fet a pillar, with
fever~all nome declaring the in oastion all over Egypt,
according to each degree, which the water reaches
upon the piller; Then they fore-feeýthe future y'eares'
enicre~afe, and rate p'rovifion accordingly,
The day wheni the floud, begins, is conflamtly the
S.ummer Sogfice, the inceraic is utisally be'tweene
F             foureý




~ ---- - ---- ---- -- --- ---- --- -- I


40


A Voyage into the Le'Tant.


fonrefcore, and a hundred dayes: then fuddenly ic
abates, and by the end of November,is within its narroweft Banks, about a quarter of a mile broad: The
caufe of this admirable Inrndation, I am not credulous enough to underftand; The whole circuit of the
Citie feemed tome betweene five,and-thirrie,or forty
iles-s; a Venetian who was with me, affirmed it to
le much more, he proportioned Italian meafure, I
EtJglifjh  This large compafif  helps other concurrencies to juiiifie the Turki/ reports, how that after.
Sclim his firit entry-of the Toweehe fpent 4.dayes in
Com-bate before he paffhd quite thorow: Thofe Re.
lations which refiraine Cairo, intend but of one prinf
cipall part thereof named Elkbayre from the Founders
habitation therein, according to which diviiion, that
Jorgh is but one of five principall,befide ten,or eleven
more of lefke name, and all joyned as Londois, and
Wej/iminjier: This Citie is built after the Egyptian
manner, tigb, and of large ruffe fione, part of Bricke;
Ithe Jreets. narron': it bath not beene, yet above an
hundred yeares, in the Turks poffefflon, wherefore
the old buildings remaine; bur as they decay, the
new begin to be after the 7iuvrki/h manner, poore, (owe
Much of mud, and timber: Yet of the moderne Fakrickes, muft I except divers new Palsaces, which I
there have feene, both of Turkes, and fuch Egyptimns,
as moftengage againft their owne Couatrey, Andfo
flouriah in its opprtfion: I have oft gone to view
them, and their entertamiments, fometimes attending
the rlmilrtr'mo   with whom I lived, otherwhiles accompanied with fome ofhis Gentlemen.: The Palaces
1 found va/,,&  bi&4no ftare or fuvri(h outwardly:.
the.




A Voyage into the Lemant.                41.
the firft Court spacieu4, fer with faire trees forjhade,
where were feverall begfts,and birds rare,and wondera
full even in thofe parts; the inner Court joyned to
delicious Gardens watered wirhfoiuntaines, and fiyes
lets ý befide the infinite varierie of fIrange Plants,there
wanted no (bade, from trees of Cafi,4, Orages, Le.?fOns,Figs of PharoaeTamarinds,Palmes, and others;
amongft which paffh very frequent Camdleens: The
entry into the houfr, and all the roomes througho9t
are paved with many feverall coloured Marbles, At
into fine figures, Co likewire are the wa/les, butin ilMn
faike of a lefTh cut: The Roofe layed with t'hwarr
beames, a foot~and halfe diftant,all carvedgreat, and
doublegilt: The windewes with grates of Iron, few
with Ghajff,as not defiringy to keepe out the wind, and
toavoyd theglimmering of the SUnxe, which in thofe
hot countryes, Glaffe would breake with too much
dazeling upon the eye: The floore is made with Come
elevations a foot high, where they fit to eate, and
drinke; thofe are covered with ridb Trpefiry; the
lowerpavement is to walke upon, where in the chiefe
diniwg chamber, according to the capacitie of the
roome, is made one or more richly gilt fouantaines in
the upper end of the Chamber,which through fecrer
FPift:, Cupplyes in the middle of the roone, a dainty
Poole,, either round, f*ou re fquare, triangular, or of other figure, as the place rcquires; ufually twentie or
twentie foure yards about, and almofi two in depth:
fo neatly kept;: the water focleare, as makes apparent the exquifite Mefaik at the bottome; herein are
preferved a kinde of flfh of two or three foot long,
Mie )Arbels, which have oft taken bread out of my
P a              hand,






4z


4Z       ~A Voyage into the Lev~ant.


band, fucking it from my finge Frs, at top of the water; But that which to mee feenaed more Magrificex:
then all this., was may entertFiMeit: entring one of
rhefe Roomes, I faw at the upper end, amongfi o-w
titers fitting crofkewlegg'd the Lord ofche Palece, who
beckoning to mae to come, I firfi put off my Sbooes as
the re& had done;~ then bowing ofrca~, with my
hand upon my breaff, came neere, where he making
me fir downe~there attended ten or twelve handforni
young Pages all clad in Scarlet, with crooked Dagp
gers, and scymsimrs richly gilt: foure of them camewith a' fheere of 7'affaty, and covered me; another
held a golden bvccefe With rich perfume, wherewith
being a lirrlefmeked they tooke all away;next came
two with (weer witer, and 6efirinkled me: after that,,
one brought a Porctimwe difli of Cauphe, which when
Ihad dranke, another Iferved up a draught of exce[lent sherbet: Then began difcourfe, which paffed,
by imterpreter, by reafoa of my tg'#wrance in the A4roti
bwcke there fpoken: In their queflions,, and replycs, 1
noted the Egypti'assto have a touch of the?derchbp#,
or 1w, with a fpirit not fo Souldier-like, and open, as.
the Thrkes s but more difeerniig, and pertinent: i n
Come remote part of the houfe,. they have their- fiable
oftlirfes, fitch for Jbape, as they fay, are nor in the
world, and I eafily beleeve it, but umifefullin other.
Coxwaryes, by reafon of their, tender boo/es never ufed
to auy ground but SAwd: Theyt have one fort of aý
p560/Mr race~not a jot outwardly different from other
Herfes, nor alwayes the haafuewi~; but they are
rare; a2nd in fuch eateeme, as there is au offmeappointed o. fee the Fukew hen ny, of chat ra= is Faed'
to,






A Voyage into the Levant.                    43
to fRegifer it, with the colour, and to take teflimony of
the right brood S one of thefe at three yeares old, is
erdinarily fold for a theufandpeeces of eigh, fometimes more: the reafon is becaufe they will runne,
without eating or drinking one jot, foure dayes, and
nights together; which fome Egyptians wound about the body, and helpt with litle meate, and leffe
fleepe, are able to rides this is of infinite confequence
upon fudden diJatches,to paffe the wildernefle,where
neither water, nor graffe is found: from thefe perhaps grew the Fable of thofe Pards- Cameli, or Dromedaryes; for feldome does any rarntie of Nature,
efcape the fabulow attaques of fancy: There are many fpacious places in the citie, which in the Rivers
over-flow, are daintie Pooles called Byrkhaes, and
of great refrefhment, asalfo the calhu, which is a
Channell cut through part of the Citie, from the
Nile, into a Plaine on the North, where it makes a
fruitfull plafh of at leaft ten, or twelue mile com.
paffe, affording alfo many rivelets to the Gardens; in
there Byrkhaes, and Cdhui, towards evening, are many hundreds wathing themfelves,in the meane while
divers paffe up, and down with Pipes, & RoguyFidlet,
in Boats, full of Fruits, Sherbets, and good banquetingfitffe to fell; after the Rivers fall,thofe places are
greene for a while, then burn to fand:Notwithffand-.
ing the excedfive compaffe of this citie,it is populous
beyond allproportion; for as we rid up, and downe,
the principall Streets were fo tkrong'd with people,
as the Mafters of our e.fJJs, went alwayes before,,
flhoving, and crying Bdabarack, that is, make roome;.,
fuch infinitc fwarmes of Arabs, and Indianm flocke to
F 3,                  the




1 _ _ __


44


A Voyage into the Levata.


the plenrie, and pleafiires ofGran Gaire; fo as I there
beard from divers honourable perfons, that not long
fince, they had a plague, which in one yeare fwepr a
way eighteene hundred thoufand, ndsdde, yet within
leffe then five yeares after, there was more throng of
people, then ever they had knowne: All difea(es
there are rifer in Winrer;efpecially the plague, which
atthe Summer So/loice fuddenly ceafes.
When the winde fits South- ward, ( whether it bee
the Spices of Ethiopia, or not, is uncerraine, ) it is Co
odoriferous as any spanifl) Glove,and fo hor,as when
it held long, it Co corrupted my lfowacke, as till the
winde changed, no meate went through me, fometimes, nine or ten dayes together: on the South.end
of the Citie, is yet remaining the round rower,wherein Pbdraoes daughter lived, when (bee found c..Mofes
in the River, which runnes not above a Bowes (boot
off: hard by are Jofephs feven Granaries, or rather
fome of rheinruined walles left, and foure of them
fo repaired,as ferve to keepe thepaxbliqe corne:Three
or foure miles out of Towne Northward, is a place
called c  uaterea, with a Tree of Pharaoes Fir, un.
der which Fame goes, that the Tirgine.Mary refted
with Chriji in her lappe, and wafied him in a well
thereby, when the feare of Herodmade her flye into
Egypt: there is in memory thereof, a Chappellbuilt
of no long rime; me thoughts the. Tree feemed the
oldeji in the Garden, and fo mo(1 probably chofe for
th, Story: I asked my Janizary how hong thofe kinde
& 'Fig-trees ufWd to lafit;hce told me halfe an hun.
dred ycares, or there abour: yet I noted that if this
tree fhould faile, nevcrthekcffe that place hath many
others




A Voyage into the Lewant.               45
others of the fame kinde, ready, to take the reputation
upon them: many rarities of living creatures I faw
in Grxa Cairo:. but the moft itgeniuw4 was a neft of
foure-legg'd Serpents, ofrwvo foot long, blacke, and
ugly, kept by a Frexchman, who when he came to
handle them, they would not endure him, but ranne,.
and hid in their hole; then would hee take his Cit,terne:, and play upon it; they hearing the Muflqtee,
came all crawling to his feer,and began to climbe up
him, till he gave over playing, then away they ran:
Nor-is this firangerin Nature, to fee fuch creatures
delight in founds delightfAll to us, then to fee them
reih fuch meats, as rliffh. with us: the one argues a
conformitie to our compejition in one of ourfenfes; the
other in another..
Twelve, miles soutb-wej ofthe Citie, on the other
fide of the River, fiand the three oldeft, and yet moft
entire Pyrawlides: The larget: I entred ioto,downe a
defeext, Come thirtiespaces, then creeping through a
parnage almofk choaked up with frnd, wee found a
darke afcent through apatfage betweene great Maro
ble fones, without ftayres, only little footing cut on
each iide; here we paft with every one a Candle in
one hand, and a Piflollin the other,for feare of-rogees,
who often rnurther, and ride in thofe Cavernes: I.
found two Iarge,fquare Chambers in the middle;thc
one emptie, the other had ird the nidft; a Sepulture
open, and emptie, about a yard, and an halfe high.,
as much wide, and within not above two yards long:
the Stone feemesakinde of red PorphbyrieO but is nor,
for it founds better then a Bell: it is flxt in the foun4+
dation', nor can ever beborne away,as woo bigge for-,
tahc~




46               A Voyage into the Learn.
the paffage: This being the ancienteft Momnmemt in
the world, encouraged me againft the opinion of
our decay in flature from our forefathers: The lewes
pretend thofethree Pyramides to have beene built by
Pharrahb, who drowned in the Redsea: the little one
for an onely Daughter of his, the greater for his
Wife: but the fairefl intended for Himfelfe, mill of
his b&dy, loft in the see: I fufpedled them to aftc5 a
glory in the renowne of their Enemy: for Herodoeta
much more tabentique,fathers the chiefe upon cheops,
nor is there any Bricke, whereof Pharaoes buildings
confifed.
The forme is q#adrawgular, leffening by equall de-O
grees, from almoft a quarter of a mile each flat at
the bottome,unto a fquare at the top,little more then
three yards amgatar: the flones are exceffive great;
and as bigge above as beneath: all of an even fourefquare: that which made the building eafie, and held
it To long together, is the poflure of the flones, not
laid in an even flat upon one another, as in other Fabricks;, but begun at the BfJis upon firme Racke,
with the firft rowe of flones laid flopeling,their our.
fide a foote higher then the infide: which continues
the famepoftvreto the very top, and makes the whole
building fec inward, and Co without mortar, fallen
ofitfcelf: each upper flone retyres fome halfI a
foot fhort of that whereon it lyes; this hibarpens
the bulke by juft degrees upward, and makes the out.
ward fcmwt very eafie: but in a covxtrey where there
were any raine, it would fettle the water, and decay
the building.
Therceare about fixteene or eighteene other Pyra4.
mPides,




A Voyage into the Least.                 47
mydes, extending South-ward, a matter of twelue or
fourteene miles: theyare faid to be of Kings farre
leffe ancient then this, and yet though of the fame
flone, ruined extreamely; only wanting that poffure
of the ftones: This wonderfull Pyroxide is recorded
to hare beene twentie yeares a building, with three
hundred thotfad men and more, in continuall employment, which if the (tone came from the Red Sea,
is very credible s but perhaps part was cut from thofe
rocks under the fand hard by where it flands: within two Bowes (hoot hereof, is a Rock offome fortie
yards circumference, and twelue or fourteene high,
cut into the forme of a was heads perhaps Mewonss,
famous for its founding at the Sun-rif e; the Egypti
ans, and lewes with us, told us it gave oracles of old,
and alfo that it was hollow at the top; wherein they
had fecne fome enter, and come out at the Pyramide:
then I foone believed the oracle; and efteeme all the
reft to have beene fuch, rather then either by vaepor,
though not impoffible 5 or Demoniacke, which require too much credilitie, for me: All that part of
the Plaine, for betweene twentie or thirtie miles in
length, and little leffe in breadth, hath ever beene the
place of sepulture, for thofe three Cities where now
is Gran Cairo; that is Babylo, (not that of Perfia,).Memphm, and cairs: the souther part belonged to
Memphi, which was the ancienteft, and tflood moft
part on that fide of Nile; thofe bodies are thebell
Mummy,and were buryed before the Ifraclises departure; one of which sepultures being opened, I went
downe, tyed by a cord, defcending as into a well, ten
or tweluc fathom, kaving a laizary, and two of our
G             comnpany,




48             A Voyage into the Le'oant.
company, at the rop, to awe the.4rabs, who often
leave Strangers within, and returne when they are
ftarved,to rifle thein  the place fo low as I was faine
to creepe, and all full of a-dry fand where moifiure
never comes; that preferves the bodies, as much as
the em64aming; Infemuch as I have feene fome of
the Lirnep,noc touched by the embalmin&F,. to remaine
perfect white, and found; fo many ohou9fandycares,
will things endure, when uncoucht by moifture, the
(We caufe of ptrtifdaion: The bodies lye, moft of
them in thefiand, fome in an open flone, with an hole
low hewed therein; they are not beyond our ordinary proportions; in the pitch of the breaft, is fet a
little Idol!, the head of humane flape, with a prop under the chin: they are as bigge as ones middle finger, with Hyeroagli/bicks on the backe; and made of
flone, or rather baked mortar; their being among the
Dead,made me fuppofe them pieces Religisw; which
with their old Hieroglyphicks, in vaine Ifearcht to in7
terpret..
Above all the dxtiquities of Egypt, I fought to underfiand, that admirable Table of Ifis, not mentioned in Plutarch, and flenderly unfolded by Pigoordis,.
but compleatly expreft in the antique Egyptian Mo*
nument of Braf/,lately Printed in Italy: it is thought
under the Ceremonies of 1/ii and oflru, to containe
that three.fold wifdome of the old Egyptian King:,
and Priejis-: the one about the Nature of their Nile,
and Soyle; the other concerning the Policie of their
State:. in the third was vayled the molt- imporntan
pieces of their Phil/ofophy.
To gec information hereof I followed the old
tX4IPnplC$~




A Voyage into the LeOant.               49
examples, firif ufed by tHerodotwt hcn by Iuha, C f8ar,
and after by Germanicu-s; which was to enquire of
Priefis, who (if any) were like ro know fomaewhat
in their owne dtiquities: I was heipt by an Interpreter, to the fpeech of three Egypt$aW Priejis, but found
them utterly ignorant of all things not ctfa/aometano ':
Nor can I wonder; for in the courfe of vici/tmde.,
the Egyptiarifaper/lition as the anciente-ii in the world,
is likely to bge the mofi c/cane loft; and all SuperfitiiOr,, being in effeal but jugling:, have rhefate of fuch
tricks, that is, while new to beadmired, but in time to
grow ridicaleou to fuch as difcerne their knavety, and
flale to thote who doe not; thereupon the Prieflr,
like other I'mpslors, when their devices began to take
but coldly, changed them: This caufed among the
leathem new Docariies, and Ceremonies Ecclefiafliquc
in feverall ages; feldome all at a clap, but by degrees as occafion,and the Peoples gufi required 3 nor
ever happens a more fudden occafion o* f innovation.
herein, then that of conquelt; therefore what foever
little memory of old Ceremonies, might have beene
left in Egypt, hath utterly perifhied in their frequenc
eppreJiensj efpecially in thofe two of late ages 5 this
of the Turkes; and the former of the Circafflan &WMamalukes; which befide the change of ceremony, have
corrupted all the ingenious fancytof that Nation into
ignerance, and m alice; Thus is fayled that fucceffion
of knowledge, which by word of mouth ufeth to be
delivered from one generation, to another; nor is
there any reparation made by way of Bookes: The
maine reafons why the naked cMythiologicall part of
the Heathen Iegioss, was not exprett in writing,.
G  7.            were




50              A Voyage into the Levant,
were two: Firft, it would have expofed them to theexps~iem of many; whereby the feverallf axie-s aad
irnereffes of nen!, either out of aopi 'io, orde.g
would have raifed pernicious lierefies, as. appeares in?
the 4k~rtm and Tiwumd: therefore Numm PDPpi~im
h~av writ Eoekes ofthat kinde, caufed them -to be
bdwith him-; and when, (many ages, aftier) they'
hapnedý tabe found, the Prxtetr protetted to the Se-a
oraethar. they would defiroy. the Religio#s, if publi fh-a
edst whereupon they were burnt: The other reafony
wasI becaufe the itiflitatioms of their Refigiotis Wereaddrek, not to the wifet, who~are fo~few, as not to,
be reckoned of, but to the multitude,whilch are paflio.
nate, nor judicioiu  wherefore they were nor put. into a rAtionaill way of' difcourfe,. which ha d ferved
them up to. the rnxderllandi~g 5 bu-t rather aded in:
fuch manner, as 2SMight inoove the Senfes,. thereby
raifing fuch pafirons as. were to the advantage -of their
Rekigimv Hence came the perfumes,, and daintie Mofhoe in their Tempes;s the fanmftique veftment of
their PriefIs; their foAemnc Sacrifices, Pidureso Slkbý
tw:,adPeefes which in new fuperflitims~wereý
alotrd:, with contempt of the for~mer;- yet in thet.
maine point they all agreed";- that.ý was. ro-ammufe,
and enrertaine the imqginh've part of the-mrinde,. bes-.
fo~oling thezIweIle*td4; Co. the. Ceremoniies.; renewed,not aiway~es utterly different, nor, the fam e;5 butr foI..
lowing the state ruafous, and popua~r Gtsft:.. juft like
the weeds of each yeare~nor ever of the former kinde,
but according to the Sopyle, and Seafen: -Now for.
thef~e pafl~mn, thofe fenfible [demuaw:u were excel..
Lenny fitted: Yet becaufe there were to We difcermni




A Voyage into. the L eva'an.
sele  to engage them they were admitted to thec
infide of their dervices, and called S.4cruý MWisii, anid
fo were either taken with die myftery, or at leafi,- with
the favour to rhemfelves, and profit of the Lepubtique, the latter fort in love connived;j the others
were conjured, as -they did dread the revenge of the
Gods,never to divulge thofe myftkallfecrets;j wch alfo
was, becau fe t hey were eit her cruel1, impure, an d har..
rid, (for with fuch humors they complyed, as well as
wi 'th the vertuous ) or that they contained fome pro-,
fou nd.reac h o f Stute, or Ph: lofa-pky beyon d vulIgar ca-e
pacitie,wdn adores eafily,but pierces not; and that cre-.
dulous reverence,is much advanced by a folemne conceale ment,- cupidixe hamaiiim~gemii, libenriw ebfcur*.creduntur: Therefore it is, not bypoeraric, but a neceffary regard to the. vaine, nature of man, which forces.
moft Religions. to muffle toward the vulgar, concea-f
ling Come of their infide, either in Hyerogliphicks, Fs*.
blies, Types:, Parables,, or. Schoale dq'ijfiliorn j and:
ftrange Loongmige; all. which doe equally obfcure to
popular capacitie,.. and are chofen according to the
6emviuo- of the Age,or Dod~rine: Hereby were all fort.
of wits entertained with la reverent Satu~f~a6iorn the,
deper nthe kernelij Ath Ihallow in thcfejhei:, Thus,
is all l ight of Eltys old,-eoin.1 almoft quite exa
tin&a No4w as or the a fice, and Geverowmerg it isl
perfe~fly rurkifb, and therefore not to be fet downeapart; -only it exceeds all other parts of Turk1 for
rs~ger, and extortion; tereafon is becaufe th e Turki.
well kfaowes the Egyptid# nature, above all other Na&.
tion:, to be maictew, treacbersw). and eff winaae, and.
therefor; dangerous,.not fit fox Armnes, or any other
Gr 31ý        ruflt




52            A Voyage into the Levant.
truft; nor capable of being ruled by a fweet hand:
Wherefore among them, are more frequent, ard
horrid executions, then in the reft of Turky, as Emp,.
ling,Gaunching,Flaying aliveCutting offby the Wafte
with a red bet Iron, oynting with Honey in the Sunne,
hanging by the Foot,planting in burning Lime,and the
like: in my two moneths flay, I faw divers fearefull
examples; efpecially two; one at Grav Cairo, of a
Fellow, who in malice fired his neighbours Houfe:
He was firfi Flayedalive, with fuch Art, as he was
more then three houres a dying; then was his skint
fluffed with Chaffe, and borne firadling upon an Ajft
up and downe the Towne.
The other was of three Arabs, who robbed in the
wildernefle betweene Roffetto and Alexandriab they
were taken at a place called Maidyah, where at my returne I faw execution done in this manner: They
were laid naked upon the ground, their face downeward, their hands and legs tyed abroad to flakes;
then came the Hangman, who putting their owne
halfe-pikes in at the Fundament did with a Beetle,
drive them up leifurely, till they came out at the
Head,or shoulder; two of them dyed fuddenly, but
the third whom the Pike had, not toucht neither
in the beart,nor braine, would have lived longer, had
not the flanders by dafht out his braines; then were
they tyed upright, to flakes driven in the high way,
and fo left: Now the Turke to breake the fpirits of
this People the more, oppreffes them with a heavier
povertie, then any of his other Mahometan Subje6s;
and therefore if there be one Prirzer, more ravenous
then othcr, he fends him thither, and connives at all
his




A Voyage into the-Leorant.              53
his extortions, though afterwards, according to the
Zurkijh eldicy, he knowes how to fquecze him into
the Treafury; fo fatisfying the Pcople, the Prince
-dreynes them, and they difcerne him to otherwife,
then as their revenger.
This Vizier Bajhae who now governes carried with
him from conjantwinople, a Ship laded with Tinne at
his arrivall, hee tooke a Catalogue of all wealthy
Perfons j then to every man excepting fuch as were
ingaged in favour of the State, hee tIent a piece of
TinneP,- more or leffe, according to the abilitie of
the Perfon, and demanded of each, fo exceffive a
price, as generally% it was- not worth the fift part, of
what they paid: It is the cuftome of the ottoman
Crowne, to preferve the old Liberties, to all Countryes who come in voluntary; which in scio, and other HAwds of the Arches, it hath for examples fake,
maintained very honourably, till juft caufe was to
the contrary: but thofe whom they take. by conquell, they ufe as a booty, without pretendingany
humanitie, more then what is for the profit of' the
Conquerour; which moff Conquerours doe inefL
fed, although. not being fo abfolute as the Gron Sigh
Iar, they are faigne to give the world more fatis4._
tion in the poore counterfeits of zuflicei Zeale, GJ&-.
"mency, Publiqxeý.good, and the like: the Egyptiansundertheir Circi/Jiaw Mamalukes, were defended agaiift.
Sualto; Selmlike a fiocke of fficepe kept by fierce- Ma'fives, from the Woolfe; wherefore his bloudy vi5bozy made him rage the more;r fo that after he had;
fline all the Czrcaj/ins, and topt the reft, he was.not
like,Frd#ob content with the fift part, but cooke all,.
leaving;




54-            A Voyage into the Leoam.
leaving no man owner of a foot of ground; and divided the Land into Farmes; the leaft Farme payes
one purfe, fome two or three according to its pro.
portion; each purfe is eight hundred peeces of eight:
the fixt rent the BaJhac muff conftandly make good to
the Cruwxnie; he every yeare places, or difplaces the
Farmers, as they outvy one another in gift to him:
the fet Rent never alters -and is eighreene hundred
rhoufand Zeccheens yearely a Zccbeene rwkifh I value nine (billings fferlin.
This is proportioned into three equall portions;
one is fet out to firnifh the annuall Pilgrimage to
kMecba;  the fecond payes the Souldiery, with all other Offices, and Services publique for that Kimg.
dom;the laft third goes cleare into the Checquer:thefe
Farmes are moil in the hands of Egyptians; befide
which, there want not rimarres,,that is Feades given
to cTrkijb Horfemcn with obligation of Service in
Warreand to awe both neighbours~and fubje6fs.
When Selim had Conquered this Kingdome, he
boafted bee had taken a Farme to feed his Agemoglans: wherein his judgement was the fame with
the Raomns, who efteemed it the Granary of their
2eb~l~tqte; *wherefore the 2"urke at this day, employcs the Egypti~as, rather that way, tken to armes;
for he hath of them inroled Souldiers, but fourtreene
thoufand, and when any of rhofe dye, hecontinues
the pay to his Wife, and Children: whereby without fcandall, the Nation is made efeminatte, and difarmed which is the maxime he holds upon that falfe,
and dangerous people: Hee ufed till within this fif.
ceene, or twentie yeares, to make (as in his other
king





A'Voyage into the.. Loant.


A 5ý


kingdomes,) moft of their Judges of the Natives, but
they according to that Climate, were found damnaM
-bly corrupt, and dif-affcdiona -to the 7#rki/h af.
faires5 wherefore now having made fure of that
Countrey, hee hath without any further refpe6t of.them, made a Decree, that none fhall be capable of
being a Judge amongft them, but a naturali borne.TurkeP whereby the luflice is excellently reformed.
efpecially towards Strangers, who before had no
Proteafion, betide poverrie, to fave them from falfc
wirneffe, which Ilared them as a Booty betweene the
Judge, and the accafers: 1aving thusý at Grow Cairo,
enqiiretd df fuch points, as are peculiar to that Kingdome, I thought of my departure, which I purpofed
-to dired in fearch of fome further ant iquirie; Firfit,
I asked for the famous old 7'rmple of udlcan; but
could not heare any remainder of ir,nor any-acknowledgement-of Jupiter Hammen, who gave Oractes in
the WeJlof Egypt:1 Then Idefired to view thepafCage offoyfes into the Red Sea,nor above three dayes
off, but thefrewes told me that the preciCe place is not
now -knowne within keffi then the fpace of a dayes
journey along the Shore; whierefore I left that as too
uncerraine' for any obfervation; and went by Camel/
twMdayes journey soa!tB-ieajk~,:to fee certaine great
Wuines fome fifteen miles from the River;I had hoped
they might have proved the remainder of the Labo7iPth, or Pyramides built by the twelue Kings in the
Lake of Merits;5 but I rather by the Pillars, and Tarrets, gueffed themr.-o have beene fmne regal1 Pa/ace:
in our going thither,, there hapned a little whirnewvinde which drave the fand fo upon us, as we were
H              almoft




A              oie.it4teL          M
ahnoft loft-; for d~ivers time~s paffIengers therewith,
orerwhelmedmnan and beaft, are not found, till many.
~~ge ~      O      W*et weaohrwid difcovers them; otir
onyremedy' Was to -wine wur Catods -buttocks to thewi;%de,. till the place where they flood was become 2
pit j as deepe, aý they could. well goe out off; then remuoving a lintl forward1 make another fland,. till. we
gtew againe Ovironed; in this manner- pafling -out an
houretill- thed wfind ceafed: This -fright made us rcoo
tuazie neerer the Nikewhere I faw two C'raodjles- run.
ning: togerheri. in a muddy plafb, the one about foure
ftom long, the other not-above two.
At my. comming backe, I began to rhinke of going:
dowac to A4kxaxh4 and from thence by Sea to
Ioppiupurpofig to returne home by lerafalem, which
by Land is fifreene dayes journey on. this fide Grdrn
CA;rP: Then- tooke I my leave of the.!/lJJ~ir#m
Signuir SAx1, Segbezzi whofe uf'age of nice all this
while, and now at departure,. was fo honourable, as.
might ferve for parrerne to e~ach noble Spirit.
It being now forward in No'vemkerV with the wa-w
ters abatement began Egypts Spring; all the bankes
Co greene, fragrant and -delicious, as if a new' Paraidice.
wer up; he Rhiver fhmnke generally -into little more
then a quarterý of a mile btoad; which caufed one
unpicafing fpectatle; that' wat ofmany wild Arabs,.
often tenet rtwelue togetherý fwimming croffe to rob
rffaZgesi and Pafftngers:they firft wrappe their thin
blew Coate-about their, head,:then tyc their Lance to
their fidei fo naked fwimme over the River, which
I had alfo keene at my going -u p, when the floud was
nigh. a mile and quarter om-rbut. not fo frequent 1 'my
tWQý




A  oyage intothLom
twoLwnzares with their Harquaebze: and I with a
Piftoll, awedehem, that they durft not AtIult rhe
Boat; nor were they able to iamfe the Launce.(fwim~w
wming),- more then With one hand., and that but wae
l1Y: -In this foure daycs patffage to Rofett-60 I enqtiired of the.D eltao, and the Niks fcVe4 fireames; the
Delhi is Co named, from the fornie of that Letter~and
is all that -part of Egypt, which lyes betweene the
two branches df B~ff'eto#, an'd Damiatla  the 6irft Par~
rting of which fireames is about twentic tniles belo
Grjn Ca4ir; p art o f thi's DetAg, I had often beard by
fome of the kearneder lewes, to have beene the Land
of GiJbem.
Nvile haid of old feaven ftreames, live naturall~and
two cut by labour, to kerve enely in the overfiowe,
there now remaine onely rhree,,one artificialI, which.in the inundation, ferves Alexandria: the two natu..
raillones, are 'that of elu'm, no.clled: Damiata.,
and the other of Carnpv, -now Raffrae; -this later is
of late, fo choaked, as at the entrance into- the fca,)
fhippes are faig*ne to unlade, and after a final! pfage,
to lade againe, an1other bath quite furre'd up within
leffe then -thirty yeares'whereof rher -areclhteecaufes
doubted 5 firik the gravel! borne, downe lzvthe fihd,
for then the water is as gravelly as a pudic in ithe high
way;5 Se6condly the -fand blowne therein, by the
winde from the bankeis; -ifir beeirherof thefeA~i
may Adter tbe-co'urfc of rheriver, as. in part it  at *
done formerly, whiich might be the rivine of the
Citryes, but not of the kingdome: the third real
ion, ifome defe&, or diverfion fvom''above to.
Wards the, f~ountaine~that would-be the detrudtiofl of
H  2,         all 5




58             A Voyage into the Levant.
all; but is not generally believed; yet mee 'hinkes,.
might well be fufpetcd, becaufe though fo mainy
fireames are ifopt, the reff run not higher then before; which they fay the many ditches made of late
ages,are the caufe off: The water;tafes juf -like new
milke, but fomewhat nitrous, and ifdranke as in the
river, troubled, it caufes in firangers, a flux  which
to prevent, they take a gallon, or more, of that waterj, and it they have not time to let it fettle, they
caft therein three or foure bruifed 4l4mDnds..; they in
leftk then an houre clarifie it like Chrfalll; whichv
effid they have upon no other water, and thereby
fbew'd theperfdffien of that.
At laft arrived at RjfettBe, and fo by Mule pafied
to AlX4Pdria, I pirpofWd from thence to take avoyage for toppi; which paffage, I rather chofe,chen the
other of Damigta, much neerer, but more infeffed
with PyrAts: Here one day, I went to view the Port
QfGgffyes, but was feverely prohibited: this feeming
contrary to theufuali freedome of 7iurky, made me
fufpe6t fome notable defe& in that harbour, which
might hereafter, be made ufe off; whereupon I went
the next ddyfecretly, unto A high decayed peece of a
47'trret, upon the wall over that Haven, to6 take. a confiderare view thereof: my acceirh wasefpyed, and
dog'd, by an Egypt:4M, one as I thinke, of the Gar...riff hard by, whofe violence produced an accident
that, made me fbrgee all my other deflgnes,and flyefor
faferie of my life, unto a little French Barke, which I
knew was that day,to depart for Sicily: We had not
fayled above five, or fixe leagues, but we faw a SpeJAocle of a(traine beyond the Spirit. of chefe, times:




A Voyage into the Levant.                 59
it was thus: a Maltefe gave chace to a Greeke Veflfell,
in fearch of Turkes, or TWurkih goods s the Grecke
laded with Turki/h goods, made up to us, who carrying no Flag, he judged Turkes; but when at hand, we
appeared Cbriflians, and from us no helpe to be had,
He yielded: upon the Veffell,were foure Trks; three
fuffered themfelves to be taken prifoners 5 the fourth
( wee all looking on) ran up to the Sterne, where taking a peece of cord, he tyed his feet,and one of his
hands together; then threw himfelfe head-long into
the Sea; itf which refolute end, he (hewed by what
a (hort paffage, many a yeares mifery may be prevented, where other reafons, or feare masked in them,
enthrall not.
Our Barke had twice before beene taken by the
Turkes, and ranfomed 5 this Voyage met none, nor
any notable danger, excepting one ftorme, wherein
we had like to have Split upon the rocks of Candy;
Finally, after twelue dayes, we came to siragofa in
Sicily, from whence we went to Awrefina, and fo to
palermo 5 whole delicacies, with my noble entertainment, in the houfe of a French Gentleman, there cmnfulgenerallfor his Nation, flayed me to take a leifure--.
able view of that Kingdome, whofle Cufomes, and
Government, are fo perfedly spanibh, as need not to
be fet downe apart; efpecially, this Memeriall having not undertaken beyond the affaires of Turky,
muft not meddle with thofe of Chrif7endome 5onely
I may upon this Countrey, remember an Icem given.
me by a very underftanding Turke. in one part of theArchipelago, our Captaine, who went Admirall to the
whole Armado, caufed many of the Gal/ons to be
aH  3             linkt




do         ~A Voyage into the Levtant,
linkr with.Cables; this I knew -dangerous among Co
Miany i4snd, and at length we began to fall foule one
upon another;5 whereupon I askcd the Turke why we,rode fo linked; he replyed for to be ready all toge.
ther, if we light upon the Mialeji; with *that, under
colour of magnifying) them,. I defired to learne howy
they underftood Malta, and fo told him I wondred
they wrould fuffer fuch a fpot of earth to trouble
them, and not rather defiroy 'It. when they had Come
Spar-e timne from greater encerprizes: Fl.0 anf'wered,I
-that they wotld no mrc~r attempt cVWsfta, but rather
Sicily, which had better laniding, and was abler to
mainraine an Army; and whofe People having fuf..
fered under the French, and Spaniard extremely, and
finding no hopes in any other CA'rtfltia* Primce, are not
much averfe from the Turkif/h Government 5 then
(quoch he*) if Sicily were ours, Malta mull Come in
without blows, as vidualled from sticily aad no way
able to fubfiitwhen we were 'on both fides of it.:this
difcourfe I could -never efleeme to the full, till I had
beene in Sicily, land principally once, when I heard
fome of them not. flicke to- fy, that the Greekes lived
happicr under the Zurku,th the ey under the spdrni
aords:- yet I myaft note alfeZ' that ofll theckroiia
States., the Tiwkesarc -the ~wqrft provided ro-deale
with the Spvi/b;. 'for'of all *o-hers, 'that 'nofl fIabfitfis, on Forsreffes, wh ich 1would& pro~ve bhard knots:t o
t he CTrke, w horae N at ure 2 1nd (rdersM'lirary -areC not
i.n an~y one poit foniuch, dcfe~tive -. as in that of
siege: from Paerme, 'I rode To.'TMAp"w, firom thence
I embarqued for Naples, whote -rarities ent'erraizued
mefonuedaycs, then went I by 1Reme;fo~by Florenice,
and




A Voyage -into the. Loata.e
and Belogn~e, to Venict; where I arrived the eleventh
mnonech after ray de'parture from thence: having in
that time,.according to the moft received divifions of
Turk,, beene in nite Kingdomes thereof, and pailed
Aixe theufand miles, and upward, moft part by land.
Thus have I fet downe fuch obfervations, as were
of pafI'ageIoc.4ff, and' i'aurally borne along, with the
places whereon I tooke them-; Now follow the more
ib-rAa7 and generall concerning the. fflitutions of the
whole Expire;5 wherein I. take but the accounts of a
reckoning made in-haftl, and therefore fubje& to the
4f'advrast~age, of a hafty vie w, that is, to over-.flip
many thin gs, and to fee the reff butfuperflciak5: yet
ufually quicke glances, take in the moft emix'erst peeces; am-ongft which there are fome like the dye of
Scarlet, better difcerned by a palling eye, then a fixe;
of this nature I ealeeme the murall points of beha-m
viour; a new Cummer apprehends -them with a
judgementrfelh, and Jincere, which furthcrfiemiliaritie corrupts with ajff cfhn, or hatred, according -as it
mects a dij~kufitiom conforme,- or irpntra4ry: The moltimportant parts of all States are foure, drmes, Relig ion,!Mftice~and MoraliCujimes: in treating ofchecfe,
moft men fec downe what they (hould be, and ufe- to
regulate that by their owne filly educatiox, and reccived opinvionlsguided by faidlimi-ties, and maralities imuAf
grinary;i this I leave to Vtopian. who doating on their
phant~affique fuppofals, Ihew their- owne capacitie, or
4ypocrifie, and no more: I in remembring the Tarki/li'
infliMUtions, will only Regifler what I found them,
nor cenfure them by any rule, but that of more, or
Ic~eff fuj-ec to their ayie, which I1 fuppocfe the




6z              A Voyage into the Levant.
Empires advancement: Firit,then,I note their Armes,
becaufe in the fway of,mens affaires it is found-oOm.
i4 ejfe Gladiipedifeg ua; in that feare as the ftrongeft
ofourpafions,awes all the reft; Their Infantery confifts of two forts; Firift, fuch as are levyed upon particular Cities; they are more, or leffe according to
occafien; the abilitie of the Towne, arid defance from
whence fummoned;     many of them are Chrqfians,
and are fent forth much better appointed in clothes,
then with us:each Towne in feverall Colours, and their
Armes fufficient:they are lodged, and exercifed without the Citie, almoft a moneth, bcfore they begin to
March: The other part, and chiefe ftrength,is ofthe
Ianizaries, whofe number, at my being in Tarky, was
foure and forrie thoufand, which as it fayles,they ufe
to fupply upon occafion, but never exceed; the manner is to re-inforce thefe bonds thus; ever now and
then, there are fent out officers into divers Provinces,
efpecially the Northerne, who out of all the Cbrtfliaz
ebildren,from the age of ten to eighteene, or twentie,
chufe without f]int or exception, fuch as they thinke
fit, and carry them to conpaintinople; there they call
dgemoglans; then after fome obfervation of their
Perfons, thofe of moft promifing parts, are feletced
for the Gran Signior his Serraglioes,either that of ConJflantinople, or his other of utndrinople, where they
are taught to write and reades; to underfland Arabicke, to ufe their Bow, with other weapons: then
cull they out the choyfeft Sparkes; who. as their capacities grow approved, are infirudted in state affaires, and by degrees, taken into higheft preferments   thefeare called Ichoglasjs: the worft, and of
leaft




A Voyage into the Loaw.                      63
leaft qualitie, are afligned to the drudgery of the
houfhotd, to the Garden and other bafe effices, fome
are made cwMariers, and Galeotr: the generall fort,
neither rare, nor contemptible are by the Aga of the
raniuries difftributed abroad, where without charge
to the Prince, they earne their living by hard labour,
till the age oftwo and twentie then fo inured to en.
durance befitting a Seoldier they are brought backe,
taught their Armes,and prepared for Service: There
are enrolled lanizaries: This choiceand edwcatieo of
Ferfons,apt to each ufe, muft needs make it excellently performed, as being more naturall then the courfc
of Chrifendome, where Princes put Armes into the
hands of men neither byjfirit, or education, martiall;
and entruft their chiefe employments, with refpeas
of birth, riches, orfriends; which to the fervice intended, are qulities not fo proper, as thofe perfonall
abilities,which prevaile in the Turkih Elediie: Thefe
though the fonnes ofChrifians, hate that name above
all others and are found, (as I have feene fome of
them) without any naturall ajfeclon to their Parents,
as it were transplanted, acknowledging themfelves
the creatures of the ottowan Family; fo much are
the prefent engagements of life too ftrong for all for.
mer tycs of ble4d: their pay is perpetuall, both in
Peace,and Warre; more or leffe, according to perfo.
*udmerit; which excites to notable attempts; other
prefermeat they receive none unleffe it be a Timorre
for ifany of them fhould be in honour, he might be
too much regarded by his fellowes, whom the Prince
will not permit to acknowledge any befides himfelfe;
for which refpe this Emperser, at Andrinople, as it
I                 were




64             A Voyage into the Lei'ant.
where in face of the Army,caufed a great Perfon,once
of this Order, to'be ifrangled, and ProclaimedTrairor, when I wasin Hungary-, whereat I heard many
of the eimzmariVe fpeake infolently in publique, yet
durlt they doe teo mope, feeling this Princes Spirit, to
greaeforthemi
They -are never caft -off; for when old,or maimed,
they are kept in gprrifon - This company was held
devifed-inimitation of the,Remeine Prxeteria Coherts,
-or ratherof the t  icrdtpnian Phaltix, and hath performed:as.bravely -as either; but is now, in great
part-corrupt 3 for contrary to their Prim7itive kuf/itUtiopI, many of them'meirry, others follow Merchandize; iand whereas heretofore, they were all chofe
thefonnes of Chriflians, whereby that Caufe was
kept under, and the,urki/h fo much iucreafed, now
the Cbrqnians are permitted for money, to excufe
their -children,and the Tuirkes to preterre theirs;Some
hold this an errour a pernicieaw one, as leffening that
due proportion which fbould be maintained between
the Cempel/ers, and the Compelled; the Turkes rather
rhinke the Chrl/Iians not now fo ftrong, as hereto.
fore, abd therefore not to need the former dimiution,
experience made me of this opinion, confiderino thtat
itis many yeares findie moft of his Chrqiit0 aountryes were taken in., and how every age dyes them of
a more deepe mla ihomettan,then other; but ihould he
wvinne2ay Chrfliai Province of new, he would not
Spare in this way to exhauft it, till it were fuffici ently
enervate:;The morralleft corruption of this Order
bath hapned of late yeares; that is, knowing their
owne ftrength, and growne fancy with famifieirie at
CobvrtD




__ __ __


A Voyage into the Levant.


65


Court, they have proceeded to fuch infelency, as hath
flefh'd them in the blaud of their Sovera:gne Sultan
ofman; and in tduJflap athey have learnt that damnable Secret of making, and unmaking their King at
pleafure; whereby the Foundation of all MonArchy,
that is, the due awe towards the BleudRoyall, is fo irreparably decayed in them as like the loft ftate of Innocence, can never be reftored.
This requires an erection of new Bands never tainted, to fupplant thefe lamizaries, who elfe will grow
to fuch a Military Anarchy, as did the Pretorians of
Romp in their Empire, till they reduced it to nothing:
Wherefore fome thinke,that the expedition, wherein
the Gran Slgnior hath now engaged his Perfoo againft
Perjia,is defigned with a refolution to fpend the 1.4nzaries very freely.
The Cavallery ismadeupof two forts; Fir&t, of
Spabyglans, to the number of two and thirtie thoufand: thefe are continhally neere the Court: out of
them are chofe Troopes to Guard his Perfon Royall,
upon all removes; they ufed not to goe to Warre,
except he went himfelfe, but of late they are often
fent with the Gran Vizier: the other fort of spabhyes,
are termed spahy-Timariots, from certaine Tinarres,
or Feudes, given them for terme of life, with obligation toeferve on Horfebacke, well appointed, where.
foever they fhall be fummoned: This is not much
unlike our old tenures of Knight-fersice, or Eficage;
but not Hereditary:. according to the value of the
Temdrre, the Timariot is to come in with one, two,
three or more Horfes; I have feene many bring in
five or fixe;. this reafon till I was informed of, I
I z           wondred




66             A Voyage into thc Lrt'nt.
wondred to fee Cavaliers carry to the Warres fuch
fu~perfuous retinue; as frequently to have men riding afrer them, fome bearing a Coate, Come a Fiddle,
many nothing: Thefe Spahy-7Timarieos befides their
fervice in Warre, have another ufe no leffe imporrant, that is,to awe the Provinces wherein they live,
and caufe them. to be wellc Cltivat; wherefore in all
expeditions many are left at home: they are bravely
horfed managing their Lance, and Bow, with much
dexteriuie:, their number is uncertaine, as ever multiplying, either upon better Population of old poffeflions, or conque of new; fo both Peace, and -Warre
encreafe them 5 nothing but the loffe of a Provinre
doth diminifh them; for their deAth is butthepreferment of new deferveis.
At this time, the owners of the Timars are about
three hundred thoufind, whereto added their companions, which they are obliged and never faile to
bring in, they make in all,above feven hundred thoufand; which number was told me, with many other
of their notes, by fome of the Timweriots in the Army,
where though held a spy, they fcorned to affit mee,
but rather chufing to glorifie their Stare in my Relario at home, informed me of all, and much againft
my will, forced mee in their prefence to write it
downe; which I did in Itsian, and in termes fo refped1ive, as when the interpreter expounded, they received we exceeding kindly, making me eate, drinke,
and lodge inther tents all night:- Befide-the Spahycs,
there are an*^her fort of Hortfenen, whoare Volsmta'
ries, ferviog at their owne charge; they are of three
forts: Some come in hopes of prefent BOogy; others
to




-AVoyage into the Loam.o                   67
to merit a Ti mer; the' third in meere devotion to
gaine Paradice by dying for the Mahemxeta* caufe,..
The firft of all others, the bafefi, niixt 'of Turks,
and chrijflians, ufually goc before the Army, to Spy,
and Pillages they having rather. the Spirits of FretBoaters,, then of" Souldiers, would never fland one
ttroke of an encounter,, bu  httedýerate bravery
of their compan'ies, does. often engage them irrevoca.bly: The fecond fort are forward enough, efpecially
where the fervice is eminent: The third are the motE
refolute troopes of the A4rmy; they come like fo ma-a
ny Dado'unen vowed for the publique; n~or are they
knowne ever to returne home. unleife with viarIry,
fome of them are daily feene tingle to invade a whole
Squadrouv; others after much ailay of valour open
their brefisI and fland a volley of Maskets;s thefe
men are heavy upon the enemy, for -*-- Vincituir #hamd
gr~atusjugulo qui proveot ~b'Jiem,
This Refolution is not the child of ReafoPm, or Heomotir; but- bred by way of keklieuo; for Mahomet
knowingy he h4d not to deale with a ScI~ltlaJiqe and
speculative generation, but with a people rude, and
fen f  uhmade not his Para4dice to conlift in ifiens~and
oHdesias;- but in delicious fare, ple#'ftr Gardeas,
and Wenches with great eyes,who were ever pec'uliar..
ly affcded in the ~e'uAu; NowV to fuchas dye in Wars
for the MometaN mfaith, he promifies that their Seides
ffialifuddefly have given them young.lufty bodies,
and fet in Paradice, eternally to enjoy rhofeplafures,
notwichffandiug any former finmes, to thofe who' dye
other deaths, he aflignes a Purgateiy tedious, and at
laft not fuch an heighth of pleafure: It is fcarce crc1 3          1   dible,,




68            A Voyage into th'e Levat.
dible, what numbers thefk hopes bring in; I have
feene troopes fometimes of above an hundred together.; fo effciUafan Inrument of Stare in Saperftition, and fich deepe Impreffions does it make, when fittcd to the priomns of the Subje(I; and that ufefull in
thofe whom neither reafon, nor honour could pof.
feffe:  The chiefe doxiiaryes of the Turkes, are the
rartars, who live on this fide mount-Taurus; they
are by us called the Fetit Tartars, to diftinguiih them
from thofe others of Chriem, who have much vafler
Dominions beyond the mountaine, but thereby of
difficult Commerce,with thefe parts of the WborId
The great Turke hath made frequent affinitie, and
league with thefe Petit Tartar:; and hath entayled the
Crovse upon them, in cafe the ottoman line fhould
fayle; not only becaure whcn a fmall nation inherits
a greater; the leffer is immerif in the acceffe of the
greater - which under colour ofloofing it felfe,mbakes
an 4cqumi of its inheritor; but for other regards peculiar to that Natioxefpecially for their Sci:,ation upon the Blacke Sea,in fuch manner, as they may at pleafure, make fudden Excarfions, to the very point of
Conflantinvople it felfe. nor had the Turke any remedy,
when. abfent in Irnprefj from home: wherefore he
cafts many tyes upon them, and feldome goes to
Woire without fome of their Troupes', which befide
thte'4yde, and reputation they af food him, are a kinde
of hoftage: in this preparation againif Pom/nd, there
came downe fortie theufand of them to the Camvpe,
but were marched forward with the Arms, before
my arri~vall f fo that I faw none of them, fave fome
few ficke, and cajhfixedperfons, who feemed more
fallow,




A Voyage into the Lewnt.                 69
faf/ow, and ill -favourder people then the Turks, not fo
well cloatked, nor fo civill; and thofe lurkes who
wifhed me well, forewarned me from going amongft
them, telling me their hatred to Chrilfians was fuch,
as they would goe neere to captive,or rife me: When
I entred the skitts of the Empire, the famt of their
Army then meeting for Poland, was ( as fame ufes to
be,) excefive, threatning no leffe then feven hundred
thoufand  but upon neerer acceffe, it fcarce held up
one hundred and fourefcore thoufand, reckoning in
the Tartars: whereupon Imuchenquired, why the
Tarkifli Armies were not now fo numerous as in former times: among many anfwers, the wifelt hit upon three points, firt that the enemies now (excepting
the Perfian) were not fo Potent as heretofore; Secondly, experience had taught theinm, that multitudes
over-vafle are neither capable of order, norprovion;
wherefore to avoyde confufion,andfamine, they bring
no more into the Field then are ocrefiry: the third
was, before their Dominions were inlarged, they
thought it better to employ their multitudes in new
Coneque/s, then to leave them idle,neceptems, and dangerous at home 5 but fince their inlarged territories,
they are diftributed into Culoayes to people, and manage them,which thereby will in time,become more
populouI, and potent, then ever: Thus did none of
them acknowledge any diminution of people, as is
plainly fiippofed by many  who never viewed their
great fwarmes and wafle plastations: The Turks/b
A4rmes,much differ from ours: their Harqaebuze like
our Calyver; their scymitar, a crooked flat BackeSword; s at sea am ong(t ropes, or on Hforfe-backe
againft




70              A Voyage into the Levant.
againfit drmvrr, it excelles a lianerbut in open fisht,
is much infcriour,it hathever beene the Raft erne weapon, as likewife theirIreos Mace, which they ufe both
for ftroke, and hurle.; they are admirable with their
Bow and Arrowes; there is among other Trophycs,
at the Caftkgade of Belgrade, fet up a Eead-peece,
which I hold Fetroneli proofe, (ho cleane through
both fides, ( and as they fay) head amd all,with one of
their Bowes; the Arrow ( as all theirs are) like chofe
little red ones which our children ufeI faw yet flicking in the Hlad.peece: they beare no weapons but it
travell; then fome of them feeme like a moving Armory: Firft,the girdle ftucke with three or foure PiJiols ' then on each fide, a~knife as long as mine arme,
with another of a foot long, for ordinary ufes, tuckt
to his Coat: an Haquebuze on his fhoulder; on his
thigh a scymitar; on the one fide of the Saddle psmwmel4, a Petrmoell; on the other a (traight Sword, the
blade hollow,long, and foure-fquare; by that, either
a little LAsxe,.or an Hngarian c&,Waoe, or both, at his
backe, hang Bow and Arrowes: when he comes to
his lodging, all thefe with his Bridle full of Braffe
gilt Bofks, bee ftltcns, to the tree or wall where he
refis; after, upon, the ground fpreads a Blanquer,
whereon hee tirit fuppes, then fleeps in his Clothes,
with his s4ddle in flead ofapifetwa: Armour I thinke
they have not fo plencifull, and compleat as we; yet
1 know nor welif4r it was ever pagkt up on Horfe,or
Waggan, to three Horfemen was allowed one Wag.
gon; I fiiw no Mufters; nor Marches orere an enemy, and therefore have little experience of their Difcipline in that point; They March in Ranke and File
widl.






A V.9yrage into the Lco'ajt      7


71


with wonderfull. fi 'lence, which- nmakes. cpmmands.r~c.
ceivcd readily: -they are aiwayes providecL oI Bis.a
ker, drycd fldhf, and fib~re of Rice., widiza kinde of
c ourfe Butter, fo as in the greateft defarts, they arc in
plenrie: thus their Arm~ies- pafIc the Candy barren
Coun.treycs cowards *Ferflaýwith leffk en~du-rance thena
did the Rem~vs.in fmall numbers of old!: 'One TOI.b
table piece of their dificipiine, they told me;5 that is,
excepting none but. the Iaaxizayes, to cncompffe all
tikir other foot Batogliaesiin~theýReare~wirhigreateft
part of the Hbrfe.. ionforuic of~akih4 icM-PMCe; they
have order not, to, meddle with. the, enncmf,. but only
to, neceffirazc. their owne forward,till they- have- gone
-through the oppofiie Forces,and in -cafe of Flight,-to
hold tbeM.oucto WAkughcer;,.,which done,. themifeIives
begita upozaithe enemy:. thus that, neccieff~  w~hich is
the' Mo-ther of alt~ brave performance ini vulgar fpirirs, and whic the Ancients. Co much fought co-caft
upon thc Soulichr,, by Hils., Rhvers,:and- fuch Scituations,:thc Tumrker crry, along M" W.i places;, theieby
forcing valour),; even out of -face; fo, ferving them,~
felos effeauak y. of "People, neither valiant, nor affe.
411ongt,.-and dit~without Intreaties,.Donativc. or
clthqr iwCOO.vM)titAdIIagnc, OF    erManipei Thus
much of- tiheir L.and Fores..; ther)   eap~
vide~d--tie- thc Seas.. within thekrDomiaiogs Wthe chiefaame theB44c**sea-and-the tcrediterranumj,thc IfrUj*
#op.t I eaae~me butkaaOfage fromAIh 'h one.Ytýý,btd- t
ther; Their -,rA Fle~emx tw Trades onto theBl4~k
Sew*..up~on fieverail Services.-; as,to itwaderhe c*4-Y1feo
vi4et,, Ctirc~I1jrs Cpfl.4keor, with otlbansj returninqirli
fy.or4  i.* gtq1f.' Latdcd wihI&yP WzCUn
K           cially




mum...................,


72


72      A Voyage into the -Lev~ant.


cially Wood, and Slaves, which it rranf-ports to A-'
tex~ndris, buying. therewith.. Flax, Sugar, Sherbets,
Rice, Tapeatry, Comne, and ether Egyptian Gommodities;5 with which,arid part of the Tribute,in Ilrnu4.
ry, they rerurne for CDotjItoai~ople, fo enjoying the
Trade,' Winds which. in tho-fe parts ufually in Sum-o
mer fit Norther'nly, and in Winter Southernly.O
The other part of their Navy ferves, upon, the
Mfediterrapnegmm it is called the Bdrbdry Fleet; it is the
more War-like, and acknowledges the Grovi Sgtiior
but not to abfolute; for the gaines of the other Flee t
goes to his Coffers; but what the tmZeres get is their
OWn~e; which makes them more earneft in Pyracy,
and defirous to be held as.P'yrats; to gamec a kinde of
libertie, ~and that-all Cbr4iais may be Prize,withour
-any impediment by league at Court: This the Tudke
grants under their excufe of their -difobedience, and
Pyracek, hee infefis thofe Chriflia~s, who being in
League with him., bee could by no other pretence
weaken.; and this alfo in cafe of neceflitie, keeps him
an-exercif~ed Flet for Warre: That this is conni-W
vence appeares plaine; for he Claimes, and P roteus
their Cities~thQngh not their Perfons, and they' never
make Booty -of zhrksfh Goods, or. Siibje~, though a
Chrtjlia; and' divers of them 1. fa w Sayling ii"i the
midtl of the Ar~adope oyal!; yet they counterfeit the
Pyr.#e to well, that the Gallycs, and vejj d: of drgyerxi
will. not. come within theDardiwelli; and my fk.
not then -knowing this Art.,- had ýat xhodes-, by' a rath
Miflake,almofl loft my Libertic; where the Admirall
CGlWs ef.Triptly, comming, for frefli Water, Rode
Ic Mouth ~of >the cronabove thrce houres withoutt




_.- -1---~~1111111111111111111- -1


A Voyage into the LeIa4t.


73


caating Anchor, as pretending feare of being within
command; this made me judge it an Engliff Ship, as
likewife the Colours, which Io farre off I tooke for
the Kings; wherefore defirous -to fee my Counrreyre
men, I hired a Greeke Boatman to carry me thither,
where being almofi arrived, I perceived -my defperate
errour, from whence I was forced with entreary,mo.
ney, and my dagger at his breaft, to'=akc him rowe
mee of,
The Turks are but ill fupplyed with Sea-men; for
betide Reneg-a'o#e they have but few. skilfulI Saylers,
and would have had fiwer, but that as of old, the
Cartksgini'a  Hoftulirie exercif'd the Rma'NS at Sea,
who elfe, had not Co early learnt Navigation, and by
cOnfequence, could not fo foone have Maared the
World5; juft fo, ( though in a farre weaker manner)
doe Florence and Malt conteft with the Turke at Sea,
enough to prafife, but not defeat him: to which effed, I have heard fome of them by way ofjeerefay,
that the Gran Duke,ard Mafta,did by the Gran# Signior,
like little barking Dogs about a Lyon, keepe him awake, and if fomerimes they ventur'd to give him a
nippe, it did but rouze him, without any hurt of importance; for ought I knew, they had reafon; for
though reliflanc be necefIry, yet when fo infuilici.
ent it is worfe then none.
Their termes of Navigation are!taliin, either to
their Slaves; being mofi of that Nation; or that
thernfeIves!n1axdeirs originally, have a Laguage defedtive in Marttime affaires: Their Vefkels are either
Turkijh built, or Prizes; their owne built, they call
Caramuzallsimany whereof are great Ships; all have
K 2             Rounds




747
Rounds on the -oirr-idc, like. Stayres;- the &cerne,and
Fomccafbletb,, tilt fbivure or -ive Stories 'high; fao as I
b~v 'fene~lm~ 3ftenrarY feven ~re'ight-hundred Pafikagers-.:,that formtue makes them -flo~wv of
Say-'ICI, nnwarliioe: and cafily ovcr.-fet'by weather..
Tkwiri G4Idýes: areligh, of an excelIlt~ovnwiold, and enm
4are'acvhigh: Sci1,efpeciatllyvhofcof Rhade-s.
The iaiiie' toength of bithxheir FfrTsv'., -are tali
Ships taken from Hiollaniders; where' the Cowardize
of: that Nvtioui isiad a..Weapon 2awiff all Chri-a
Iien'kiUw aad teaches-us - wha a '*erw'oss ~cruelrie it:
would ibeo Barre Ranforuel & re-ru me to, all-who
yield their Ships~upon' what oddes-fioever;.A~llgre-a't
exam ples have a little of the unjuft; now though,
this might fieemehard meafure -to fuch, who yielded
upon extremeodd-es; yet wvre it neither fo gnera~i
a mifchieCfc., nor fo imp~ortan:*s the contrary indulgence; and men would not only become more refolute, in rhofe. necelliries, [but mnore waryof going4ill
provided;
Nothing makes the TioI1lmders to faint.sth T
ki/b knowne Decree of impunirie, and libertie perf0 -nail to fitch as render withai~ difharge of Artitfety;
wherefore~they fecitig preftnt- flifeiet inyieking I9, ýand
zao futurek.defh'uion atHo'me, doe. eafly -give' up o4 -ther mens goodsI for their owne fecutivrie, upon
thefe -termes, the Admiral Id/t 04 where. ISayled, a
goodly VeffllI offoirtie brave Peeces, had bedne -taken, as the Trkes affhred me', by two'of rhdiiiP4.i.
kers of ten~or twelue Guns a peece: OIur'Ships they
doe aot willingly fet upo'n; not only for their able
dcfcoce but alfo becatife the Vetfell,2 which dfes to
be



A Voya ge into. the Lrvarn.               75ý
be a co~nfierable peece of the Bootie, -is~ro them- Unulfefull; for their employrmct s- king Pymcy, cant
makefr~ litte u of an Exgkfl Bottomv, whofr mcrnld
-is too flow ýfor.t hat -pu Tpofe: wherewith 'theyzaked
me how we did in Warre at Sea, where. our en~C s
maight come'on, or of, at kifure: I repiyed, h
'which came into -their Seas, -weite private:Mer-cl'a8
Vd1fils -of Trade., flugs made only -for-burden,, 2nd
wreather.; But for Warre our King had a Nalvy Roy 
2ll of another frame the heft for Sayle, a nd Fight, in
the World..
The firangefi: thingy I found among 'the Tuirk~bi
Mariners, was their incredible civilitie I who had
often proved'the Barbarifnse of other NKirions at Sea,
and- above all others, of-our owne, fuppofed my felfe
amongfl Beares, till by experience, Hfound the con-01
rrary35 and that not-only in ordinary civifiiy,,but with
fo ready fervice, fuch a patience, fo (weet, and gentle
a way,generally through 'them alIlas madetne doubt,
whether it was a dreame, orralIf~tayrm
flood in their way, or encombred their ropes, they
would call me with a l4aum, -or &mim, 'termes of
moftaffedion, and that with anemclne, a-voyce, and
gefture Co refpe6live, as affured me,their other words,
(which I undcrftood not), were of 'the (attc firaine:
T.he Capraines. chiefe Gamne in this 'Voyage, is by
Paffengers; yet if interefi thatre Af this. behav-iour,
theyvare nor quite voyd of it, dtha an ad1it fo well:,
Nor are they irreligious;5 for--alithe Voyage,, Moroning,and Evening, they Salutetlbessomn, -with~r three
generall Shouts, and a Prieft f~iyin g -a kindeofLetamy,every prayer ending with V.Macree Kichioon, that is,be
K 3.            AqgeISAI






76             A Voyage into the Levant.
4Anrgds prefent, the People anfwer ir manner of a
fhout omrin, that is, Amen.
Thus much of the cdilitary part of rurky; to
which I adde the point of Fportifcaltip; Hcrein their
proceeding is dire6d contrary to the Spaniards, he not
having multitudes of his owne fufficient-to Plant Cotoexes, is forced in all his Conquefis, ( if he will havc
any people to governe over, ) to preferve the Natuirals: Nowthey not being affired in Affefion, muft
be awed by Fortrelfe; which is a way, not only unfure, but fo chargeable, as wakes him gaine but little
by his winnings.
The Turke on the other fide, well fiored with peopie; Firfl, confiders what number of his owne, he
will uffigne for T-imariots to each Province which he
takes; then he deftroyes all its Nobilitie, atid fo farre
of the rulgar, till there reft only fuch a proportion
as may till the land, and be awed by thofe Trimiriots
with other ready Forces; that remainder is kept to
Manure the land: this thus eifablifit, he needs not
the Fortreffe for himfelfe; nor will he leave it a refuge for Enemies, or Rebels: yet if it be a Frontier,
he does not quite demolifh it, but keeps it in fuch
cafe, as may hold out till he might fend an Army,
ever fuppofing himfelfe calfter of the Field i wherefore as it fiands in more, or lefle danger, fo is it provided: Thus in Hungary the Cafile of Belgrade is neithcr razed,nor carefully maintained; but that of gads
is guarded with a ftrong Garrifon 5 all thofe within
the Kingdome are pulled downe; fo is it in his-other
Countryes: his Maritime Fortifications, becaufe of
fudden accetk by Sayle, are held in the rule of Frontiers,


I




A Voyage into the Le"4na.                77
tiers, and withall to command the Hiven, yet is not
the care of them fo diligent as in Chrfleendome; they
every where gave me free acceffe, excepting Egypt;
where the extraordinary fubtill malice of that people makes more!Vigilance, and reflrainr, then eldewhere: Now followes their Religion, wherein I noted only the Politicke inifitutions thereof; thefe obfervations moving only in that sphere, cannot jarrc
with a higher, though the motion feeme contrary:
ca-tahoemet noting the outward folemnities, wherewith other Religions entertained the minds of men; he
judged them perhaps in part, effeminate; as thofe
daintie Pititres,and Mujicke in Churches, thofe ftrange
veflures,and Prceflionsand partly chargeable,as thofe
iftately Sacrifices, and other folemnities- of die Hea*
them, and all driven already, to that heighth,. as hee
could not our-goc; wherefore hee reFuWd to build
his Sec% thereon; Nor did hee much affe& to fupport it with Miracles, whofe credit frequent Imnpe/Iers
had rendred fufpedted to the World5 but rather
chofe to build it upon the Sword, which with more
affurance commands c.Matkinde: Every Noveltice
drawes men in for a whik; but where the gaine is
not great, they foone grow weary, unleffe compullk.
on hold them on.$ therefore in his firft beginningsj,
when he was asked what Mircles he had to approve
his Dulriise,he drawing forth his Scymitar, told, that
God having had his Mfiracles fo long flighted by the,
wecredalitic of men, would now plant his Lawres with
a ftrong hand, and no more leave them to the difcretion of Ignorant, and vaine man; and that hee had
therefore fcnt hjtui- the power of. the Sword, rather
thenr




78-         ~AtVoyagemint     the Lodvantq.
th~enof cviradles; from hence is it that now, their
Bayes, ride to* Circamciflfw, bearing aui iron, club in'
dieir hands.: N-everthdceff,,, he fay.lednor to,,frame
his sel Co asmight take thumane nature; not the Intel44uadl parr; for allI Superftisiom fubfifts on weak Hyped.befes, whorfe plaufible reafon may for a while 'pre~vailcin. the World, by-poRf rtingkCome. (hallow, rath,
peremptory. braines, but cannot-hold, out long, un-M
lelke ir have better note., then that of argume3t: He
therefore made it comply. with the maine parts of our
Nature,, Hose, and- FeAre: to the, one he -fet ourT ao
r~adice 1 to the other though nor a~ed, yet a thirewd
Purgatory: his, Preaching' ofParadicemiore then Hve'!,
favours hipe above feare, thereby filling the, mmndc.with good coilrg-e;o which. was much to hisMilitary
purpofe: for beae finding the -Sword to be the foun'se
dation of Empires., and. that to manage-the Sword,
the rude ýand fenfuali are more- vigorous, then wits
fofitncdIin a mild: rationall way of civilisie; did firft
frame    ýt hi 'nhaent aý rude infoientfienfualiay~after
which educatiu,, he fittcd his future pretences jufl un.
to.-fuch-capacit~ie~s: w1meefore: fecing- that Mens opi..
mm.v are-ingrear Part ma i wtal and.hahitumd, it is
m wonider. toi fee themiwkeawith-pramifexý, hic-h to
us~fbemewbeafbly, andý ridiculous-; theyv as~much, de.
fpife-oursi and-in' amrnt    d wai eeythin is
receivcdýý not atzhe rate of irs:.own'w~orxh,. but~ as itý
2grecs with.ý the" reCceivers.ý humare; whereby, 'th-eir
hiops., andf-ares. thoughf~1f, pr~evailestasfhtlng-ly
as-if true,, and ferve the s~e~ase~fifually, becaufe
aoxprno which -movesall, our Adgionus, -is~gover ned-by;
the -AMppAv4*y of things,, norcbyttheirrmltie-., Now
to




A Voyage into the Loai*t
to the intent that the moft notable fiopsJies of men
might be entertained, there are foure feverall ord.er$
in their ReI~gien~all very malicious againft Chriffi~vm1
otherwife I have, not noted them; vicious, exceptirig
their profeft Sodomy, which: in the Lev~m is no, hel-d
a vice: each order upholds, its reputation tipon fome
one peculiar vertue, which alone it profeffes,.nor pretending to any other: The calenderimupon chbritty,
wearing an ironi Ring through the skin of his yard, in~
fome I have noted it capable-of being -taken of with
finall di/fi'cuky; The Haggiem/ar on 4.Muflq'e, -and
love-fongs: The TerIlwcckon Revelati-o~s,anid Ei~bts'
fiafm'es,to forecell,and divert divine wrath: The amof1
rigid fpirits are the Dervijiar, like Betds Prieglls urcing themfelves with Knivesi ~ thefe DervqlJ*r h1ave
murdered divers ~BaJbawes, & alf0 aftempted. foieke of
the Emperours, in'the midft of their Armies; Co dart.,
gerous are violent fJirits, when fecond&d by Re~zgiues,
which being the. only pretence in! its! way- glorrifid to
VmPire Severaziue aimthoritic, isto bt-kept wtithin it'fs
due lim.its,Ieft in ifead -of Cooper.#iv~ with -the Etate~it
grow abu fed beyorld that u fe.
All thefe Secds are g~ve~rned- by weri HeA, called
t he Mofty, who fe aurhoririe un ites~b'd Orck S tI*m M.
fupprefling fuc h-difiarde'rs, ahefrpIsori   ej
of men raife: This cxssftyý is created-by the Em)Pe
roir, to whom he- is held ever fukordiaate; -which
makes the thkiJh TheeIogyexcellebdy to correrd~pod
with the Stae~asdcpendi  thereon?&-feeatW~tf~rmtr
Con -more iPoliticke,then if thsha  Oclftcke Werd
cf another Gountrey, or orherwikf-Jdepe~a- in Oporft
the,* Ptvs  hrb     a
L                  often




So             A Voyage into the Levant.
often make GoddAlrnighie feeme to decree more conforme thereto, then either to the occafions of the
Prince, or Consmen wealth: for all Heathemi/h Gods are
ufed like Puppets; they feeme to fpeake, yet is it not
they, but the man who in a concealed manner, fpeaks
through them, what he pleafes; that part is adted,
by the Expounders of their Alcorarn now, as of the
oracles, or sybiles bookes of old: Hereby the Mufty
ferves to animate the Souldiers, by colouring ofpublique impreffes with Divine authoritie,and alfo to decide Contreverfics, when they are too unruly for any
arbitrementP, not held Divine: wherefore he frequently confults with theGran rizier, who as the Soule of
the State, inJires him to the purpofe thereof 3 full of
that God,he gives his Oracles: They paffe for grounded upon the Alchoran, which is given out for the
Word of God: it is written in Arabicke verfe, in
forme ofDialogue, betweene the Angell Gabriel, and
their Prophet, it is prohibited to be tranflated, which
both prefervesthe Arabicke tongue, and conceales
Religion: All fet Texts are obnoxious to feverall Exppfitions, thence growes diftrac7ion: So hath this
bred foure different Ser7s of Mahometans, each interpreting it according to the Genius of its Natiop, the
2artars Simnply,the Mores,and Arabs Superlitioufly:the
Yerfian ingeniomfly, the urkes with mofitiberty: each
Natieon fcornes to yeeld unto other in opinion, for honours fakepecially the rurke, and Perfian, who intending the conqueJl ofoneanother,doe after the did
Cuftome of princes, dif-affet their People in Religion
toward-the Enemy, that they may be more fierce, and
obftirate agaiof him, In this point the Turke growes
-                 difadvan




A Voyage into the Leant.                 S8
difadvantaged 5 for of late, his people begin to bee
inf6ted with Perfiamfme: I have heard many of
them in publique acknowledge the Perfians better
crahomet#ns, then themfelves: which makes the
Turkes much braver Souldiers upon the Chrifliao
then upon the Perfians againfithe one, they are carryed by zeale, malice, and difdaixe: but againft the
other,only by a Nationallemulation: This imprefflion
is made deeper by many other circumftances, infomuch as divers lanizaries have told me,that they goe
to the Wars of Perfia, very unwillingly, but to there
of Poland, or Hungary as to paftimes: One of their
Priefls told me of an old Prophecy, they have: That
their Emperour fhould winne the red Apple, and in the
feventh yeare after, ifthey did not defend themfelves
bravely, the Chrifians fliould overcome them, but
howfoever,in the twelfth,thecy fhould at the furtheft
be overcome by the chriflians: The red Apple ( he
faid)was Conflantinople, though fome(quoth he) hold
it to be Rome: I holding fuch prophecies, rather cunning, then true, fearched after the Plot thereof;
wherefore I entreated him to tell me, how much
time was contained in thofeyeares: he anfwered.that
each yeare, (ome had limited by theage of Mahomet,
but (quoth he) in vaine, for it is prohibited us to
fearch into the times appointed 5 that claufe gave me
fome light, for Iremembred, among other caufes
of a States prefervation, one affgnes proeimitie of
danger, his reafon is,becaufe, apprehenfion of danger
caufes vigilance, and diligence wherein lyes fafetie:
hereupon this Piphet, tomake the Turkes vigilant againft the chri^fti  threatens them widrthte fventh
L 2                yeare,




Si A Voyage into the Lo'am.
yeare,yet not Co imr'ui;44l,but valoir way refifi and
to nmake every -year providgd againfI, as that, tber&.
fore I*is it probihiied to fii~e the~ time determinate
then their farall dcfro4~ion not to paffh the t wel fth
yeare,makes them in the mewne whi1ý P~ ke the Chrilf/ims: as their iiituae 4catrWers, wk14 much holhilitie,
as a rev~rgc*#cicpAW: which fefvs$ aight to the purm.
po&of ~the State-.:M whci 41l comes to all., thofe
yeare& (as -fuch Prppheticaifimes ufe) are like to prove
very long ones.
Ainongll other qualities, whereby cM.4hame::fme
polfkffes the minds of wren, one is its pbeafiog do&~rncne, I remember when their Prophet in the diceranm askes the dngell concerning 'Wenery and fome ov
rher delicacies oflifetbe relles him, that God did not
give man fuch appetites, to have them fruttrare, but
enjoy'ld,as made for the guft ofman,nor his torment,
wherein his Creator delights notv; Thefe kinde of
opinions will ever -be well-come to fiefh, and bloud,
when as the contrary (wer-great feveririe of Difcipline would have pleafed none, but fome few au-.
iteme complexions,. and to the greater part would
have feemed but a perfecution ofnature, or perhaps
by-Poerkicalls, whOfe re'putation might foone have
beerie loft in fcandall.
Thecunning of that fccoWidig humane inclination
appeares in the diflerent fu~cefI of two politick ad~s
of di Aarn    thc -onepernhits Pe4amue, tQ make
xauumerous People, which is the fo~mdation of all
great Empir'e:: The other preaending. a divell in eveý
ry  rape, prohibits wine  them~by it hardens the,
-Soukijr, prevris.diforder. and facfitates publique
provilion:


I I




A Voyage iontG the L""oa.8
provifion: The flrfl as pkeafing to nature is general-o
ly received:- The other is born'e downe by appetite,
fo~as more drinke wine, then forbeare:Thus he maintaining his inftitutions by feconding of humane difpofition, fuicceeM more readily, then thofe, whofic
ordinances by croffing it, -goc -as it were againii, the
haire: Now the greateat numberof' m *en being, govczw-d by pfjiens, in all peoplethey have beene enter-,
tained, for the prefent life, with luftice;5 for the hi.
tu re, with Religion: yet there were ever found fome
few Inrelle~luall complexions, in whom the'Vnder(landing prevayked above the Paifioris: thofe difcer-,
fling wits could not receive the groffe fuppofalsu,upon
which the Heathenilhi foperatitions relyed; wherefore to traine them in fuch wayes as. civill focieries
require, they were infirut~d in a feeming rational!
way, wherein they were amufed about an intelligible
world, ftbred with rewards of hrnujvr, vertue, and
knowvledge, with puniffhments of infamy, vice, and ignerance: thefe were tothem in (Iced of Elifian Fields,
or inJfer#nalLRivers, and as fome f~coffrrs thinke, but
little better of affurance,onely righter framed to fuch
capac ities: by the feoecalAtien, cornemplative heads,,
who elfe, might dangeroufly have bufied themfelves
aboue State afflaires, wcre finally mop d~and diverted:'
To which purpof'e I have ofti confidecred, whether'
kemtoiwg is ever like to come in requeat Among the
2iurkes; and as farre as conjedure may venture' 1'
doubt not thereof,, for (etaiwrn is not admitted in
the beginning of EBmpieres-emol/it mores,'neefinit cjf/
feios, and fo weakneth the Sword.: 'but -when' onc'e,
that hbiredsream*effe, andftoab, thenwiffi other
L 3           effcbmie;ci




---- ~ ~


84             A Voyage into the Levans.
effemimacies come in letters; thus in Romear the firt
rhilofeph-pers were banifht, as unaYiVe; but upon th
conquefts of Cart bage, and Greece they crept in: And
the rurkdjh Empire confifis much on thofe country:s,
whofe care rakesJ~eculativs wits, and which of old,
bread the greatefi Divinc, Pbilofopkers, and Poets in
th4world; wherefore though for fome ages, the
rI'rki/b race may retaine its owne proper fierceveJf"e
yet in time, thofe fubtile clyma'es, and mixture in
bloud with the people thereof, will Gentilizeand infedt it with the ancient foftneffe natural1 to thofe places: I have often feene Copies of love verfes, and
fome few peeces of cMaikematiques paffe amongft
them with much applaufe: I faw one torfingingand
conpofing of'two or three Sonnets, had ar a feaft in
BelgrLadt of Hangary, a Horfe given him worth neere
twentie pound Engilh; and in the acceifh of all Arts,
Poets have ever made the firif entry, as with their Fic2isOns,and Moujicke, apteif to charme favage braynes,
thus Orpheiu in Greece, our Bards in England, began
the Dance to all other Sciences: Statuary, and Pich'fre
can never come into Turky, by reafon of their Superflition, which not only abhorres worfhipping of fuch
formes, but making ofthem; As for other learning,
it is like to infinuane, but by degrees, and with many repulfes, as a corruption moft pernicious to their
Religion, efpecially 'the fearching parts of Philopby,
which flomacke that fenfuall Paradife, as hath beene
noted in Averrees, dvicenna, atid others, who could
not endure it: Thereupon, the Ldcademy which-began to.rife up at Bagada: was fuppreft: yet let no
man conclude that this can hinder Pbilpfophy, -for
there




A.Voyage into the Levant.
there can never want wits able to bend it to Religion
with them, as well as Plate with the Grecian:, and A.
quina with the R1onaqiPs.
Now the narurall courfe of things much follows
the Surme, who gives life to all, wherefore this cyclopxedia hath beene obfarved to runne from Eaji, to
Weft: Thus have molt Civilities, and Sciencej come
as fome thinke, from the Indian Gymnnofopbjls, into
Egypt,from thence into Greece, fo into Italy, and then
over the dipes, into thefe faint North-wel parts of
the world, whence if the znquifition hinder not, perlaps they may paffe into thofe new Plantatiens Weflward, and then returne in their old circle among the
Levantines, whofe Wits (ceme more abftrufe, and
better fixt for contemplation, but ours more nimble
and ready, fo as their difrourfes are more profound:
ours more [up erficiall, and plaufibie, and were I to account for the loffe of their ancient Authors, I fhould
not only accufe Langm4ge, Tyranny, Warre, and!ntereffe Ecclefiajhqiqe, but efpecially this different relilh,
and firaine ofourfancy from theirs, for I have found
it in conceits, as in ayres of tLXuiCke: in great parr,
that takes nor with them which much affedIs us, our
very Reafoni ditffrs: Before I fhut up this point of
Turakilh Religisn, I mull remember two principall
points; one isredeftination, the other Purgatory
the firif not meant in matter of Salvation, but of forý
tune, andfaMcce  in this life, they peremptorypermit
to Deftiny flxr,and nor avoydable by any aIt of ours:
I had two notable examples5 one was at Rhodes,
where juft as we entred the Port, aFrencmh Lacquey."Oour company dyed with a great plague. fore
which




86          A Voyagt in-to the Lerant.
which he had taken of the Gutmers M4te, who with
ouc tuning upon himi, converfcd, and dlept amongft
us: The reft were fo farr'e from fra#te,agr his death,as
they, far prefently eating, and drinkinig by him,'and
withi'n halfe an houre, after his rernovall~flcpr on his
Blanquet, with his -cloathes in flead of a, Pillow 5
which, whenf I advifed them not to- doe, they pointed
upon their foreheads,, telling me! it w as written there
at their birth when they fhould dye;j they fcaped~yer
divers-ofrhe paffingers, dyed thereof before wee got
to Egypt: The other was at my paffage to Lt..#Yd-rP4
0opkin Tbhr~ve; my felfe,theIArxvizary, and one more
being in a C#4;6, wee paffed by a man of good quali-o
tie, and a Souldier, who lying along, with his-H-orfe
by, couldthardly fpeake fio much, as to intreat. us to
t~ake, him inro, Coach-; the Ianizury thade. our com"
p ai on ride his Horfe taking the m an in whofe breft
being, open, and full of plague tokens, I would not
avc had himre'rceived-;. but, he- in like manner, poin,
mig- to. his.owrie forcheM., and mine-, told me wee
could not take hurt, utileffe it were written there,and
that then ýwe could. not! avoyv d -t; the fellow dyed in
the night,- by our fides z and in our indemnitie apa
pzroved this conifidence, tolbe fomnetlmet fortanate,
Iii'r wife foever;i doubtle-frh for the publiqueir caulm
fecs v~dsir, and prevents- that iorerrnqtiont of Trade,
wherewith the of#Ce Oif Hed*h -in tdty,ý ruiaes greater
nu; mbet Agily, thenany! pk~gute vev did&*' I thouht,
this. opimilon offdte&.'had ciflally tfkehime~off from
all imd~flrivwi care of their owneflefety;6 but, in danga~s at Sea~arhtothec 'afes- whtere d~ilIigen-ce' Ithy evilw
dctloy itlljor'%2                        Y;,..fi4 f~and-'
in




A Voyage intoV the Leivanw
in fuch occurrence as thefe~ where indamiry is not of
manifeft avayle; this affurane doe's not foe much
hurt in leaving vaine care, as good in firenthoing the
fpirits who fe decay yeelds a man up to all bad im-a
prefsiens: They admit no Hell for any but thofe who
beleeve not Mabomet; their owne they'aifright with
a Purgatory, which holds but till Daomxes.Day4; it is
acted in the Grave; the paine is inflided by a bad
~.4glwhofe force is leffened by -a good one, accor-,
ding as the parties life was led; to ftrengthen this
good Ange/hl-hey doe many workes of charitie: this
furniflieth all 7f.vrky with excellent Hinves, H#Jitals,
and -M-eskeetues; this makes the beft bridges, and
/.igh wayes that can be imagined, and ftores them with
fewntuines for the reli&f of Pafengers: Thefe faire
works foe caufed, teemed to mec like daintie fruit
growing out of a Dang-hbill; but the 'uertues of v#1Igar minds are of fo bafe a nature, as muft bee manured
with foolifl hops adfresbeing too, grofte for
the finer rnurtim'er of reafon: Thefe were the chiefe
points I obferved in, their Relgion; onely the manner
of its exercife remaines, which in briefe, is thus: To
every Meskeeto is- adjoyned a high hleader S~pyre..a
]hterple on theout-hide whereof on high, is made a
rournd, with a doore openin~g S out/- Eaft,or i,ýa]Ias the'
Countrey, lyes, towards 4Vecha;j here the i~rieft,eucring, wvith his hands bowed over his eares, wAlking
rondm, trtwning on the right hand, in a loud voyce rcls
the People, many times over, that. there- is. but oahe
God; this being done, all -the devouttr fort, (w'hich.
are not many) goeý vo ckurch, and fay thibcrpriyers,
continvAtly lp..Y.bV/44fb~~h            l
M                    is,,




88-            A Voyage into the Leroit,.
is, the feverall names of God; their geflures arc finkt:
ficting aroflie Iegg'd,. wafting of the body, then pro'w
ftrate twice on their face, they kiffe the earth, aftcrward they rife, and ftand with their hands bowed ol
ver their cares, but never doe they kneele, or uncover
the head, holding thofe pollures unmanly- fo different are the opinions of Nations, in point of reverence,,
and decency: this fervice is performed five times a
day: firitatDay-breake; thenat cmtid-day; at midif
of the After-noune; at Sun-fet;  and more then an
houreafter:   Thefirifand laf -makeadainty 'yhow,
having all the Meskeetoes, hung full of -burning Lamps.:
this frequency of Prayer, requires none to theChuircb,
but perfons at leifure; otheis make their houfes, or
bigh-wayes ferve, and was d'evifed- by. Sergisi. the
'Manke as it is thought,.in imitation of his foure times
of, Pwaternf-ter',; knowing that Religion runs no greater danger then of oblk'ion, and therefore fhould bee
often called to minde; - theirchiefe day is Friday, yet
it hinders no Market for ought I could fee,. and feemed of no more regard-, then the- day of a.Sirdnt al-s
moW worne out: they have two folemne times By
r'4Wi and Rasmdh.; they are both Lents, the firi latts
three~dayes, the other-amoneth:  their faftis accordinglto the lewifb 1manner, not in qoantity, or qaalitie
ofmeats, but in time i. for all day long, they may nei.
there ate, drinke..,5 nor ufe any fort of venery; but at
they appearing of. the firift Starre, they make themdlves amends, in glutiennejfe, drunkennefr.an g (i//;
they have on e peece of- Divinitie, which iwonder is
oot 1mvqJ4u4k   to other Countxyes.5 that-is a cuftome
a(thc.6yq4 -tofell their owrit 5 fome more, fome




A Voyage into the Levant.               89
lerfe, according to the San6fimony of the Seller, and
time limited; I once at sophia, law one fell the vertue of two yeares bermitage for a peece of blew cloth
fufficient for two Turkith coares, and a quanticie of
Rice, about five bufhels Englijh; price enough confidering the Ware in it felfe; and yet not deare, if wee
reckon the advantages of a religious repuration; Next
their church, I mult place the Tribunalel fot their
ludges are ever Ecclefiaflicall perfons; whereby both
orders joyned give reputation to one arfother; and not
onely reputation, but maintenance; for thefe places of
Judicature are the onely preferment of the Priefl-bhod;
wherewith thePrieR, and ludge being maintained in
the fame perfon, two gaps are lopt with one bufh,
without caufing any part of the land to lye dead in
the hands of the clergy, or otherwife impoverithing
the people with tythes:  There are divers orders of
Judges; efpeciallytwo; thecady, and over him the
c.Xoulacady like a Lord Chiefe-zuflice; the fupreme
head of rudicature is the Mufty;in great cafes, there lies
appeale; but none beyond the Mufty; his Decrees the
Empereur himfelfe will not queloion, for indeed they
are fecretly guided by his affjent, and the Gran riziers;
There Judges are all, excepting the Mufty, limited to
fet Precindts, and when convi6ted of corruption, they
are made horrid examples; The maine points, where.
in Turkifl Iu/ice differs from that of other Nations,
are three: it is more Severe, Speedy, and..drbitrary:
They hold the foundation of all Empire to confillt in
exad obedience, and that in exemplaryfeveritie; which
is undeniable in all the World, but morenotable it
their State, made up of feverall People different in
Blood, Sde, and Interefe, one from another, norlinke
M                     in




'90           A Voyag     ito the Levant,
in affcdion, or any common engagement toward the,
publique good, other then what meere terror putsupon thems, afweet handwere uneffic6tuall, upon fuch.
afuehje67, and would foone finde it felfe fl-ighted; there..
fore the Turkzjh. zuflice curbes, and executes, without
either remorce or refpe'&; which fucceeds better,
then eve~r did the 1omapi., withallI their m il der arts of
Civilttie; compare their conqluefis, with thof'e made
by the Tuarke; you (hail finde his to continue quiet,
and firme, theirs not fecure for nmany ages; witrncff&
firft Italy, then -Greece, and Franie, aiwayes full of Re-W
bellions., Co 'nfpiracies, and new troubles; which.
were caufed by their knity, that did not humble the
conq 'uered foe low as it fhould;i for rebellion is no..
thing but bold difcrn'ext; fo that as there is required
difcontent, Co mufk there bee alfo Come ft-rength of
Spirit., without which the difcorntent cannot quicken
into rdebelion, hut faints into, a (tupified humtlitie.0 allviMtory difgufls'the fubdued;5 a milde vi6tor leaves.
that difguft fpirit for mifchiefe: but the remorce-.
keffh way of the Thrke, mortifies it, by an oppreffion which fecures him:. to this effedt, I have
heard divers of them boaft, that God hath appointed
them for. -an iron rod ouer- other -Nations: and in
nioft parts of Turky, efpecially ScIavonita, Bofnab,.
aiwigry, uc-raedonid, and 7-rI'race, the flercefi people.
of that Empire over all pv~blique places, he fets a great
tram -Club, to isitim'ate,. what they muff, trufl to;5 nor
does Ice f6- much relye upon the peoples a4ffeffion,
wbieh w'oud     hmt.rfeflan        efabo
late. uldtyven adhim to a efpethulland letoabfo4, UPon that ftrengjth which is in his owne hand Z
maI-cS-.




4 - ~~ ~ --


A Voyage into the Lrvaht.


91


makes him more himfelfe, and binds with the tyc of
feare, whereto humane nature is ever enthralled:
The fecond point wherein their juftice excels, is the
quickedifpatch; Ifthebufineffe bee prefent matter of
fid, then upon the leaft complaint, theparties, and
teftimenies are taken, and fuddenly brought before the
Judge, by certaine lan4izaries, who with great fiaves,
guard each fireet, as our night Watchmen with 1lolherds, at Londun'; the caufe is ever in leffe then two
houres difpatched, execution inftantly performed un.
leffi it appeare a caufe fo important, as is allowed an
appeale to the Moulacady,  where alfo it is as fpeedily
decided: If it bee matter ofttle, or irigkh, the parties
name their witneffes who fhall prefently bee forced to
come in; for they have no old deeds, orany other
reckonings beyond the memory of man; in fuch cAfes,.
poefeflion, and moderne right carryes it, without that
odious courfe of looking too farre backe-ward into
the times paft: this expedition avoyds oemfmion, and
cleares the Cooets  whereby it becomes fufficient for
many caufes, and fo for a great people snow as for the
particular perfon, though fometimes bee feeme difadvantaged by the haft, which may make jadigement*.
raffi; yet that haft not beingepaflioxate, it happens not
often; nor then likely, is his dammage therein worfe,
then with us, where after thefiqp eced e/ay, and chkrg#
of fuir, the over-fight of a Lawyer, may with errour
of pleading caff a good caufe; foe that after a man
bath beene miferably detained to fuch difadvaatage
of his other affaires, as hee had better have loft his fuit
at firk; then doth it finally depend not fo much on
its owne barc right, as upon the aduaew fu1ricny;.
M.                   Thc




A Voyage into the Leante.
The laa notable point of their tudicature is, they have
little fixt law, and therewith fkurifluing, make good
that of Tacieta...inzpeJ ima Republica plurime leges', yet
they pretend to judge by the t4lcoran; whereby the
opinion of diviine autboritie does countenance thofe
arbitrary decifions,, which without fome aushentique
low to jultifie them, would hardly bee endured; This
c..lcoran is manifefily no Booke of particular law
cafes; wherefore they pretend its fiudy does not informe the Judege literaly, but by way of illsmination,
which not being given to fecular perfons, does nearly put loofers off, from referring rhemfelves to the
T7xt: The uji ice being arbitrary, makes it in their
opinion, r he more to the purpofe ofthepublique; for
the rudges knowing themfelves but inflrumenrs of
State,. andchar in its favour is their efiablifliment, they
will ever judge by the intereffe thereof, ifnot-out or
hotefty,yer for their owne ad'vancement.
I mutt eternally remember the Turkflb juffice for
honourable to Strangers, whereof I have twice had
experience: Firft at Saraib, in Bnfvab, where I was
forced to zuftice by a Chr/ifian, whom I had fore
wounded, for threatning to buy wee for a flave; when
the Caufe was declared by two 7Turkes my~companions; the Judge not onely freed wee with words, and
geflure very refpefive, but fined my adverfary at fortie Dollars, and menaced him with death-, if any mifchiefe were plotted againit me.
Another time at. Andrinople, eleven, or twelve of us
fupping together, allTurkes but my felft; there was
a.Seulack,. who is an Officer -very eminent about the
nmperpurs perfon 5 hee dranke fo bea'aly drunke, as in
the


I




A Voyage into the Levant,,            93
the night, hee having a lodging in the top of the Hane,.
miflooke himfelfe, tumbled off to the ground, and
within few houres, dyed: The next morning, all the
company was imprifoned,but I, who in the night,had
efcaped out ata decayed corner, ofthe ibsne, and hid
my felfe under a Bridge, without the cute; every
man was fined as ciremmffance did e4her excufe, or aggravate, the leaft payed foure thoufand Afers, fome
twice as much: The Judge by reafon of my flight,
fufped1ed fome extraordinary guilt in me,and had fent
out I.ffiz -ries for my appreheojion.
Ifecing the outragious drunkenneffe of the Turkes,
had all my Voyage pretended for little leffe then a
Commandement in the Religion of my Countrel, not to
drinkeabove three draughts-at a meeting; whereby,
the refpe& of cotfcience gave mee that priviledge offoc
briety, which no other excuf could have obtained;
wherefore when the Judge was by the reft informed
of my aflibence, and that I had no hand in the exceffe,
he called backe the officersand pronounced mee -free:
wherein, whether hee regarded mece as abftemiow, or as a firanger, I could not learne: One cua
flome in their JuJlice I have found, which confutes our
vulgar maxime, that fayes-no commerce can bee mainrained withoutlfdelity of oath, for all Turky is but a
mtfceIIlosy ofpeople, whofe Religionshave little effll
upon the arnfcience, and that drowned in falbonx-againit one another, fome of them as the Zinganae4
doe not Co much as pretend too any Gd&: in this cafe,
an oath were~of to flendercredit for matters of imfpeir
Wwxe.; fior bee who will commit tefltimony to oath,
uuft' bec fure to uphold inthe people an awfull, ý and
tender




94               A Voyage into thec L eant.
tendr fenfe of Divise power, or elfe iatrufting Oathes
with tryals, he exalts ksavery in the upprefsion of trutb
wherefore they put not the witneffes to oath, but exago
mine them a part; wherein Come wife Daniels may
have fuch art of queftion's Co on~expelled, and of fuch
fecra cenfCequre as no premeditate agreement can
prevent: A (a/fe witne~fle. endures what the accufed
fhould have done, had he beene guilty: The word of
a knowne Turke upon the faith of a 6)Wuffelman beares
downe all other teflimony, unlefle relieved by firong
circumfiance: Three women ma4ke baut one witxeJf.Te
When any man dyes, the land in moft parts -of,Turky_, is in..the Emperours gift, who alfo hath the:emh of his mo~vea4bles: The refi firft payes the wid.
dowe;- their Iointure agreed, and inrolled; then what
remaines i s -equally divided among. his children: The
fonne of any great Commander, neither inherits his fat..thers di~gnity, nor is admitted to new;5 thus are both
Jtickhes and. Honour hindered from continuing in a fitio
mily whereby none hath anty credit with the peo..plc, but as inf-truments, to the Granx-Signior, who being
folcwgiver of all,cvery man fits himfelfe to his employ-.
mewts, withiout Poflibilicty of any greatneffe onfrvie-w.4k, iwdependan:, or dangerous to the. Crowne: for
place,' the right hand they bold uppermoft for the.Clogy, and the left for a souldier, becaufe it gives a
mana poffieffion of his Companions. Sword; thus doe.b06h,=ders converfe without the 4deprefliion of eia
ther ~  pon'tlii &iy of their Lawes, 1I will Cet one
tInoecwncoring1their If cd: Every ASate is..then beft
&wfd,, wh~ez its idwes, and, Geverneors fu it w ith t 'he
c"d wbhcr t~ iis framed: A State ordered onely to
preferivation




A Voyage into the Loaw.,
prefervadtiox is then happy when its L.4wes not onely
bid peace, for that is vaine, but contrive it, and when
the Prince is of Natare peaceable: But the Turkith.Empire is originally compord to amplifie by warre,
and for that purpofe, keeps the Seaidciry in continuall
pay; wherefore it is beft fitted with a Prince of nature violent, and warlike, of which firaine rheMahsmetarn Race ufe to bee; and when any of them hath
chanced to proove milde,though never fojafl,and Religiou-, it hath beene found leffe profitable, and glorious to the Empire, then the violence of the others, although accompanied with much ryraxxny Therefore
the fuppofed errors of sultanl cAfurat now reigning,
being manifefily thofe of a flout Spirit, agree with
violent nature of the Government, wherein they are
not fo pernicious as the Chr/ifiaRns imagine: To rhefe
better parts of thcir Juftice, I muff atraque the maine
d/i'rdcr which defamesit;  thatis, their unfariable
covetoufneJJe; which in a Moral, or Theolagicall way
this difcourfe cannot lay hold off; but in rerpeals Cia
vil, it is a thing of dangerous effet4 many times difappointing commands ofgreateft confequence: Charles
the eight ofFramce loft the kingdome of Naples, not
fo much by any other erirour, as by the cevetosif#effe
of his Treafrer, the cardinAi ofSan Aal in detaining fuch disburfements as the -King had appointed
to the provifions thereof; nor can there be any greater defeat of publique defignes, then when the commands whereon they relye, are by the evarice of the
inferiour Magifirate made frufirate: wherefore I
noted it is a pernicious piece of Government, that af.
ter the 5ajbaes had at Sophya made publiquc ProcltN                niation




96               A Voyage into the Lewvant.
mation to hang all Manizaries who fhould be found
behind them; yet did I fee many very confidently
fba y behind, and make their peace for money with
the Gouernoars of Provinces: fome told inee that if it
thould come to the Emperomrs notice, hee would put
thofe Gouernors to cruell deaches; and certainly fuch
errours can have no leffe remedies: wherefore Polybiws, and others as they write, that the Africays were
alwayes more covetous then thofe of EoroPe, Co alfo
doe they accufe them of more crueltie; and fometimes crueltie is not only the cure of their avariceC but
the effe  of it, for they gladly take any colour for
execution upon thofe whofe death affords a good
conflfcotion: The fourth point propofed was their
morAllparts: Thofe I compare to Glaffis: the education and lan'es of a Country are the moulds wherec.
in they are blowne to this, or that (hape, but the mett/tl is the fpirit of a man, therefore with that I will
begin: It hath beene maintained, that men are naturally borne, Come for Jiavery, others to command:
divers complexions make men timid, dextrow, patieot,
indjiriowý, and of other qualities right for fervice;
others are naturally mamaximoew, coniflderate, rapaciow, daring, and peremptory; No man can Cay, Nature.intends the one fort to obey; the other to rule; for if
Nature have intentions, yet is it vanitie to argue them
by our modell -- quw i/li 4fecretti4? but Cure the latter
are very prone-to invade the others, and they as apt to
beare: This diffirence of Spirit is manifeft, fomnetimes in wvhole Natisxs; as to compare the -Spanifh
with the Sicifian; the bravery of the one, and pufilaniwit, of the other, fecmes naturally to rarke out the
one




A Voyage into the Leant.                    97
one for Domixation, the other for bondage: Thus if ever any race of men were borne with Spirits able to
beare downe the world before them, I thinke it to be
the Turke; he is in his behaviour, ( howfoever otherwife ) the right fonne of /Jhmaell every mans hand is
againft him, and his againft every man: betweene
Chriftenddme, and Perfia, he hath all the world againft
him; he ftill defignes one, or both, for his taske; and
that not as other Princes, for counterpoyfe with intent
of Peace; but with a refolution irrevocably engaged,
to bee a4l, or nothing: Vnto the greatneffe oftheir Empire, I doe much afcribe the greatneffe oftheir spirits:
No man can exped in Luca, or Genoa fuch vaft fold
men,as in old Rome; for mighty Empires exercife their
fubjeds in mighty employments, which makes them
familiar with admirable examples, and great vialories,
whereby their minds are inlarged: whereas petty
States with their Petty employments, timid counfels, -
and frequent difgraces,impoverifh,and enfeeble mens
fances, rendring them pufillanimou, and too ftraight
for great thoughts: Now as all conflitntions of bodies are prone to feverall difeafes peculiar to their
frame; fo have the minds of men to their divers abilities fome proper way oferror; the fbtile ufe to bee
maliciois,falfe, and fperflitious  the Timide encline to
breach ofpromife, to bafe wayes of revenge, and the
like; The magnanimosM are apt to bee corrupt with an
haughty Infolency, though in fome fort generoe - this
is the Turki way, remorceleffe to thofe who bcare up,
and therefore miftaken for beaftly; but fuch it is not;
for it conftantly receives humiliation with muchfweeti
neffe: This to their honour, and-myfatisfallion, I ever
N    2               found:




AVoyage 'Into dth Ledranft.
fotund: [ had alnioft hou rely exjperiewcthereof, which,
m~y uwfoylcd fuccefh -makes wnee not bhdfh to remember; yet 'not to weary my pen, I will note onely my.fccond~dayes journey, which in the contrary entertainment ofmy felfe, and a Rhagmfcai gave me th~e tirif
rutc: I1 clad in TurkiJh manner, rode with two Turkes,
an hoire before otqr Car.4v4I3; wee found foure Sp~hy..
7'imariots by a river,, where we (tay'd, They were at
dinner, and fiecing by my head, I was a Chr~/ij~rr, they
called to me; I not-underfianding what they would,,
floodftill, -tili they menacing their weapons, rofe, and
canic to mee, with lookes, very ugly; I f miling met
them, and taking him who feemed of mofi port, by
the hand, layed it to my forehead, which with them
is the greateft figne of lo-ve, and homiar, then often cal.,
ling! him-suftoommm,fpoke Egli/h, which though none
of the icindeft, yet gave I it fuch a found, as to them.who underflood. no further, might feeme affe67ionate,,
umble, aud hearty; which fo appeafed them, as they
made me fit~and eare together, and parted loving:prefently after, they met the CaTmVan., where was th e
Rhagufc'irna Merchant of quality, who came in at Sp4.
lain ~to goe for Con ft anixinpl, he being clothed in the
Itdiow fafhioti, 'and (pruce, -they juftied him: He not
yet confidering, how the place had changed his condition, flood upon his termes, till they with their
Axles,, and iron Maces ( the weapons -of that Country,)
broke. two of his ribs) in which cafe, we left him be-,
hinde, halfe deadceither to get backe as hecould,or be
devoured of beafts: Not two houres after, I walking
aloneý on the other fide of the river, met fixe~or feaveta
more, who cf~pying a Dagger ia my pokck, fnatcht it
fuddenly,




A Voyage into the L     'ant.             99
fuddenly, and fer it againft my breafi 1 wherewith one
ofthem fpeaking Jtalam, I won fo firre. pon them,
with refpetive words, as they had me into a houfe,
where wee eate, dranke, and lodged together; and
though fome got very drunke, none offered mee any
injury, but kindly advifed me, to lay afide that wea-e
pon,and afe fuch as the Countrey permitted; finally
after daily fuccelfh in the like kinde, I grew fo confident of the Turkif nature, as when ~awcr$, or Knives,
were often fet againft me, I doubted not my felfe, unlefife it were by a Drunkard, or a SIM/dier vYlsnwier;
for drinke makes thefancy of the one uncertaine, and
the other going to merit Paradife by killing of chriJlians was no Cafe company for mee; nor were my
wayes being framed onely to receive infoeincy, able to
entertaine malice, efpecially a malice engaged by Religion.: This haughty difpofition of others, makes.
the fafhions of other Countreys rather defpifed, then
imitated, fo that in all the In-land of Thvky, where
Chrfioian Merchants ufe nor, ifI appeared in the leafi
part clothed like a Cbrqoiax, I was tufted like an
0 wle among other birds: at firft I imputed it to Berlariflme; but afterward lamentingy thereof to one of
the better fort, to note how they underifood t; hae
told me, they would have no novelties, and thereforec
would difgrace all new exaxples; then 1 perceived it
to bee a peece rather of inti:utiox, then IMcivilitie; for
they defiring perpetuall hoJlility with the Chrifi ans,
muft eflrange the People from their cufloomes as utterly as may be; Now there is no innovation drawes int
forreigne manners fafterthen that of Apparel: Befides
that, it fecms honourable for the Tsriibh NatiotN, toN-3              retaine




100              A Voyage into the Levant.
retaine their ancient habit of clothing; for as the
French Court gives this fide of the world patterne of
apparell,fo does the Turkifh to the Levn t: Yet they
to this day vary but little from that long, and loofe
manner of garment reported to have beene ever ufed
in the EaLd: Their houfes are generally made ofbricke
dryed in the sunne; poore, and low, that they may
not be worth taking from the child, when the father
dyes: The publique buildings are vafte, and flately a
farre off; that alfo is wonderfully beautified by the
abundance oftrees; planted among the howfes; fo as
each Citie feemes rather a Wood, then a citie; which
befide the pleafant afpedt, Shelters againft the Sum.
mers Sunne, and Winters winde: the ftreets are not
broad, but paved with an high foot cautie on each
fide, in the middle is paffage for Carts, and Horfes,
from the Caves on both fides, is made a boorded
Arche not very clofc,- yet much defenfive againft
Sunne, and mine: Vpon the taking of any Towne,the
firft thing 'they eredt, is publique Bathes, which they
eftablifh with faire revenues5  fo that for leffe then
two pence, any man, or woman may be bathed with
cleane linnen, and never attendant; it is death for any
man to enter when women buth, which hee flhall know
by a Barre before the doore: hee or jhee who bathe not
twice, or thrice a weeke, are held najly; every time
they make water or other uncleane exercife of nature,
they wafh thofe parts, little regarding who flands
by; if a Dog chance to touch their handathey wafh pre.
fently: before Prayer they wath bothface, and hands,
fometimes the head, and prinities: many of their Cuftomes havebeene in Egypt thoufands ofyeares before
cmahomet ijfe




I- _ _ - __


A Voyage into the LeWoaat.,


lotI


cwabemetifme;fo neceffary a thing to prevent difeafes,
is cleanlineffe in hot countryes, and to men of groffe
food; to this Heroedetu afcribes the old circumcifion
in Egypt, and fo doe I that of cJff hoeme:, who had no
diviver warrant, and cared not for bare im. itation: for
the L4 t hors of Smperflition when they finde CuJiomes very ufefull, knowing that reafon fuffices not
to hold them in pra~fice with the vulgar, they plant
them amongfl their other ceremonies, and make them
confciensioza, which is the onely way to put them upon low capacities: in the skirts of each Towne, neere
Come river, or other pleafrng profpea there ufe to bee
round open Gardex-boiufes, where any may fir, and
pa4Th time: Befides all former refpedts, there is a nother feate, which furnifhes Turky with magnificent
Bridges, landes, Meskeetoes, High vayes, and other pub1iqueflruoIure;; that is this: When any Provinciall
Governour, is both for ricbes, and rapine, notorious, he
is Cure ere long to be circumvented, or elfe layed open
to the accufer, for a confifcation; Hee to prevent this,
hath no fairer way, then for the good, to make
fome worke of eminent magnificen e; wherein hee
gaines two fafe points of reputation, in being held
Pious, and exhaufi; the one ftops the Accufer, the other the Exchequer: Their Diet is very full, and graffe,
they will refute all dainties for a peece of fat c.Mutton#; that they feeth with Rice, which is the mofl generall food they ufe; they call that mixture Pilk'e,
over it they put mslke made thicke, and Cower, called
rugYart, with Feafe, Rice, and Mutton  they make their
rorrage Churbab:  thefe are the three ordinary diffhes
ofTurk, 5 they want not others,as Luxory, or neceflitie
require:




10z              A-Voyageiato. the Leviant,~
reqUire: Their mighty eatiung I impute to the drink-ý
ing of water, which after awhile, makes a good flow.
macke, as by experitnce I found:They abhorre 6 loud,
and things flrangleal, and care little forfi/h, orfowle,
but often buy them alive, to let them goe;- whereto
thty pretend no Me: emfchfs     oany *other r'eafon, but that- of naturallI cornpaffion5 iwherein they
are fo good, as to let fowle- feede of their Grainaries,
efpecially in thofe -of Iofeph,. at Gr.4n Cairol, a place is
lef open for Birds, and fome thou fands of Ryalls
yearely f'cored off for the fame to the BaJhab; thus
are in Tudky all Birds fo tame, never ufed to violen ce,
as I have throwne my Coate upon Turtle.Doves in
the high.-wayes, and Qmm~ilei would ordinarily hop
upon our leggesc, and armes,, as wee flept in the fields:
Every night they %hur Dogs, and Cats forth' ofdoores
that is a piece of their Aehigiipx, and a cleanly one:
the Dogs goe moft together making a hideous noyfe,
and are dangerous by night, to theeves, and drunka4rds50
others feldome walke among them. after iti's darke:
The, onely beafily pec= of 1#njj#lice I found amnong the
Tu'rkes, was their confdece., to catch or buy up for
Slave, ainy Chriji ian they finde in the Cournrey; nor can.hee efcape unleffe where he bee a ferled knowne Afer-o
chat#, or goc with fome?rotelaor I viet With mzany
whain fuch Voyagts as mine had. falne fhort, andpro-"
phejiedthc like to me: ý,I have divers timnes beene putc
to defend my felfe with my Knife, from being fho.
ved into houfes, by thofe who; Wo'Ild -haVe kept mee.aSlatvc53 and fcareetty day p344~ -but fcome or other
-cheapned mce with thbe Admz~a~y whoif he had fold
incc I- had no remedy, betide what difdaine of fife
might






A Voyage into the.Loevan10




might have prefened.: this I held 'the worft part of
my danger, and againit which, there -s- W~ preparati-P
on of althrance~buc in a finall refoliirion; yet as much
as in mee la*y; I ufed two wayes of prevention; gOne,
was when~they queftioned my. condition., & deiigue,
which was often;I I gave themi feverall acco~unts, as,
1 noted the Pla4ce, and auditry; fUll in effed to (hew
me borne rict',but falne to povertie, without any fault
of mine 5 my friends all dead, and that having no abilitie for gamet,, I hadý wagcr'd the fmall reliqtres of
my fbrtune, upon a returne from Cu,,Jimihw#We, -id
Gran Cairo: this though farre below my fortunes,ye;
paffed with them for, rruth,and fuch a one, as CMbel,*
lefihed with fir circurnftane, procured me efteeme,.
2nd compaflion; and which iwas above alIlmade Me
appeare unprofitableto the buyer;for they buy; more.
in hope of~ ranfome.'then fervice: and therefore -of--
ten enquired, where I -had any correfpondence: MY
other way was to note the territories adjoy-ning,with
the wayes for flight, to ftudy, our c0iMPany,:'_,and
giving winiýto Come, money to others, L ever kept in
fecret penfionf Com Of the Carava40 Who. underfoond
the ldaiVsig, and told ince ill that pafb: then ineach
pkce of abode, I acquainted my feUfi with- Come Re.6
Psg4*ve, whlofe flory after he had delivered-, I knew
how to. make hI'm Co much my friend,- as in cafe of
daniger, would. have helpt me to flye,' or conc'eale
herein was the mnoft expence~and W- quiet *of mry ey
age: this excepted,.the Tarkilk difpofitinn is,gfe.;c
rdus, loving, and honeft; 46 farte fronrti fal tifYitMg
his, promnifecas if he dottbut -lay hi's badxdon his breit4b
berd tkmad, -as thydue,...or- chiefely. bre~ake bre4
0                  with




104            A Voyage into the Le'4nt.
with: me, if I had an hundred lives, 1 durft venture
them upon his word; efpecially if he be a naturall
7iurke,no c.More, dr'Ab, or Egyptian 5 to thofe I never
committed my felfe, till they had engaged wife, and
Childrec.forniy Cafe delivery: They feldome travell
tingle, but expeing, till a- great rnmber be bound
for the fame place,' goe, and lodge together: this fe-.
cures from thieves unleffe they come in troopes, and
then the Giversrrmr fends againft them: Though
great: part of Turky be but of new plantation, and
therefwc nor yet populous, revertheleffe, in every
place ofgood paflurage, there are Shepheards, fome
of them with flocks of two or three thoufand), fee
ding from one Citic, to another, which caufes fuch
plenrie in Towne, and Countreyas for an halfc-penny in -moll-townes they fell, as much rofted Mutton,
as one man can eare,and for two fhillings three-pence,
I have feene a live fat (heepe bought in places two
hundred miles from any Citie. In moft townes. an
halfe.penny ipafe will fuffice two or three men a
meale: This plenty was firft caufed by depopulation, but will in time, breed greater numbers of their
owne race: The naturall ~#trkes, and the Reneg4dles
are not,fubjet to thofe taxes and tolles of Chri/lendome,nor is their quiet, and plentie fit to be publifhed
among the adjoyning ChrifJians; only vineyards in
whofe hand foever, pay to the Spahycs, to the Guardi-,a)- and others, becaufe Wios is a prohibited Ware;
yet after all 'hole perfecutions, it is much cheaper
there, then in, Chrifiedoine, but not every where to be
had,for though in. that poinr,Mahomets wife order fuffer viok~ce) yet with ft 4etter part it prevailes) and
wakes




A Voyage into the Loevanxt.            10
makes Come drinke with fcruple, ethers with danger;
the bafer fort when taken drunkeare often Bainfixdoed
on the bare feet; and I have feene Come 6fter a fit of
drunkenneffe, lye a whole night crying, and praying
to Msbosmet for incerceffion, that I could not fleepe
neere them; fo firong is confcience even where the
foundation is but imaginary: This'want ofwiine hath
devifed other drinkes to their meaty, for the better
fort; as vf'aph which is ivaser fod with Raiqins, fome.d
times with Honey; but above the reft, they efteeme
Sherba; made with Sugdr,the juyce of ~emmons,PeNo.chsesdrricockes, Violets, or other Flow'ers, Fr#it~s and
Plambes as each countrey affoords; thefe are dryed
together, into aconfiatence reafonable hard,and portable for their ufe in Warre, or elfe-where, mingling
about a fpoonefull with a quart of wer: They have
another drinke not good at meat, called Cwuphe made
of a Berry, as bigge as a frall Bemne, dryed in a Furnace, and bear to powder, of a foote colour, in tafle
a little BitteriJh that they feeth, and drinke hote as
may be endured: it is good all houres of the day,buL
efpecially morning, and evening, when to that purpofe, they enterraine rhemfelves 2 or 3 houres in Ca-f
phe- boufes,which in all Turky abound more then Innes,
and Ale-houfes with us: it is thought to be the old
blacke broth ufed fo much by the L acedememiaxs, and
dryeth ill humors in the Qomacke, comforreth the
braine, never caufeth drunkenneffe, or any other furfeir,and is a harmeletfe entertainment of good fellow(hip., for there upon fcaffolds,halfe a yard high, and
covered with Mats, they fit croff-leegg'd aftqr the
T#rkiflk manner,many times two or three hundred to.
0 2 gether,




o6 A Voyage into tht Lrvant..gether, talking,, and likely vwich fame poore Mujicke
paffing up and downe The Maftrke of Tharky is worth
ýconfideration *' rhrough all thofi vAft Dominio'ns,
*Oere ruinnes one tune, and forbknght- I hard,no more,
nor cans every man -play that; yet fcarce any but bath.a ffadk, with two.ftrings, and at Fenffs, and other
*meitiogs, will Confideatly -play, upon It, but bee
knowes,not to what iune, nor can play the fame
twice over 5 this I'm Litre of3 for to make experiment,
Ihbave ventured to play at divers rneetitogs,prerending
the ayers Of my covintrey, to note whedl*t they had
skill otno,and tooke Co well as'they h-~eoft~tinadt
Ing play. againe; -then I found their. skill aInd'mine alik e. for I never underftood the leaft touch of any in.
ftrurn ent s Nothing could more difguife their Geviws
unto me, who was ufed to gueffe at thefanisfes of men
by the esyes wherewith I found them moft taken, a!motl as much as by-their difcourfe: I muff not forget tooote- their ilomfie, wherein a Taxrke exceeds an
lt as farre ashe us; the caufe is Pofygdmy,which
makes, the husband. guilt~ie of infufficient correfpon~dcnce* and therein fearefull, that his wife may feeke a
firtrher fatisfa4han; therefore their women goe muf,
fled all but the eyes, nor are fitifred to goe to Chareb,
orý Co much. as looke out' at the windowes of their,owae houfts: -The man Vmay d ivorce when he will,
with refftirition of loynture, and f<~ne further Cartse.
-fadion, as the zudge pleafcs, yet not without Come
reaonable pretence -againft the woman: I faw a.t As...drWO#1 a woman with many of her friends went
'weeping to a fudge3s where in his prefence, ffhe tooke
of her sboew, and held it the fole upward, but (pake
nothing




A Voyage into the LeTAnt.'               1-07
nothing;- I enquired what 'it meant, one toldmne, it
was dth~cerezonoy ufed -when a married woman cr. CMplaines that her husband would abufic her ag-aidil naa.
ture,, which is the only caufe, for which (he m.ay fuc
a divorce as.thcee then did; that delivery by way of
Ernblemr, feemed neare,. where the fia6 was too an--
cleane for /.arg"sve: There are very. -few beggars -in
Turky', -by reafoaof the great -plentie of ri6Iadsj only one fort I wondred at, that is their Santones who
are able cunning Rogues, much like our Tran of Bed.
14I0ever with fiome fuch difguife to pretend a cra.
zed braine;s but they at in a more gra~ve~fublirne, and
iweke way then ours;~ why thefe are refpeded,I. could
never heare any reafon other then campaflion; but I
obferved fuch a reverence borne them, as made mee
thinke itreligjiosa nor is it trange, that faicperyjf~ans
(houild honour-all eclyffe of underJlandbiq, whofe
light difcovers them too farre: There is no people
more courteous of saluttion, then the Tsirke,; 3in
meeting upon the high~way, one with ajleope, and his
*andupon his 6reaJ, bids Slaurn Alcek, theorher
with like obeifance, replycs Aleek Sah~urn- and when
any one comes into company,the reft falure him with
a Merakbalh SNdtaPPm,.ever fweerning their ccnverfairion,wirh fuch accent of pronunciation, and fo much
refpedive gefture, as favours of a gentle Geniws, free
from that rudeneflie,whereof they are *ccufixl T Their
Sepxakres are notable;5 thofe of Princes or great mne#)
are covered over withfl/ke, or cloth ofgold, with a
rWubnt, at the Head, and fierundera vat~lted Arch
fupported by foure Marble Pillars; fozue Wkh a lit.fie Coc#ke offuu~iPmme wa#er~arslIamps continuaally bur0  3             Raing;




i-o8          A Voyage into the Leant.
fing; they are made neere the cMeskeeeo,efpecially if
they built one, but never within it; the more ordina.
ry, are buryed.in fomne pleafant place without the Citie, with an high ftoae alanding at the head, and another at the feet; that at the head, hath fometimes an
Epitsph, and if it be a man of qualitie is made at top
in forme of a Thrbat; thofe who beftow a Marblefione over them, have it in the middle cut through about a yard long,and a foot broad; therein they plant
fuch kinde of plants, or flowers as endure greene all
the yeare long; which feeme to grow out of the dead
body, thinking thereby to reduce it againe into play,
though not in the Scene of fenfible creatures, yet of
thofe vegetable, which is the next degree, and perhaps a preferment beyond the duff.
The 7'urkijh Nation cannot yet be generally abandoned to vice, having two fuch great enemies, the
C/rifli-in on this fide, the Perfian on that; were they
once removed, it would foonecorrupt, like Rome after the fall of Cart hdge and Antiochu5, or worfe; for
then it would have a farre greater Empire, than ever
the Ram4M wasnor is it much leffe already, nor wanting fo much in extent, as it exceeds in being more
abfolute,and bettercompad. It bath everbeeneand
yet is the vanirie of Nations, to eaeeme themfelves
civeller*, and more ingenious, becaufe more curious
in fuperflitions than other people, whofe moderation, diverfity, or difdaine of thofe follies, they terme
barbarous, and beaUtly ftupidity, uncapable of fich
illuminations; thus of old, the cA!gyptirns.defpifed
the, Grediasm, they the Romiaes; the Romoei all the
World 'j nd at this day -the Papi~fs us 3 the Iewl:
them;j




A Voyage into the Lewant.                 o
them; the txahometans all. After this difcourfe of
the party imperiall, I muft not forget thofe other
Sets which it hath in its fubje6ion; they aregenerally chrifians, and rewes: Cbrijfian firangers they
call freink, but their owne Subjedts are either Latines, Armenians, Greekes, or of another fort whereof
I have feene infinite numbers in all that tra& of Pail
gary, and Serviab, who are baptized onely in the
name of Saint lohn, their difference Theologicall I enquired not, but in fadion I noted them To defperate
malicious towards one another, as each loves the
Turke better than they doe either of the other, and
ferve him for informers, and infiruments againft one
another: the hatred of the Greeke Church to the
RomPjh was the loffe of Belgrade in Hungary, and is at
this day fo implacable, as, hee who in any Chryiian
warre upon the r'urke, (hould expe& the leaft good
wiih from the Chriflians in thofe parts, would finde
himfelfe utterly deceived: I often was helpt by
Turkes, and Renegadoes, againft the malice of their
Cbrfliaxns 5 at Rhodes they informed the Ba/flae of us
for burying a Boy of our company, and but for a
spanilpRenegadoe, it had coff our libertie. The Lao
tines are Papofts, but fo few, and delpifed, as not to be
reckoned. The Armenians or Chaldeas., are alfo
Clriflians, but have a deeper tincture of c7babomeo
tifme than the reft: The Greeke Church feemes little
inferiour in number to the Roman, for though the
Catholickes are thicker in France, Spaine, Germainy, and
Italy, than the others in Turkie, cMufcevie, and Peru
fia;yet their Provinces doe fo infinitely exceed thofe
in extent, as will make the Greeke Church, though
inV




A Voyage i*nto the Levant.
in thinner Plantations, more numerou~s than the o.
ther: Thi preportiorn was affhured cleare before the
lofke of CooftinMitic which to Rome it felfe,, if not
confidered as a Corriva1, was. a deepe blow. Now
in all Turky,- the number of C/.rqiaxs is wonderfully
abated, for befide the flaughter in conque(t, they are
daily diminifed by other arts. The Turke takes a
more pernicioius,.way to extinguifh Chriflianirie,.
than ever the [Heathen Emperours did jD thcir hot per.a
fecutions, got rhem.the covie which followes cru,.*
city, and made the peopvle compaffionate the pfflided
caufe, whereby com M~iferation w *hich is a firong,Piece of humane nature, blew the flamc~ of. zeale, and
'raifed more affeton to the caufe, than terrour could
fupprefl'e.; thence camte the.- Giying, Sdngmu6 cMarty
rv~*SemmsEcd--eflx: the Turke puts none to death for
Religion, whereby none from Fire, or G-allowes
moove compaffion to their caufe, Ike rather fuckes
the purfe, than unprofitable blood, and by perpetUall
poverty renders them low towards himkf'lc, ard
heavie fo one another: Hee rurnes the Chrijfiads
Churches into Meikeetues, znu~c1 -fupprcghng, the P pblike exercife of Religion,,efpccially of the Remijb,
though not, utterly,, fd that each gencration becomes
ieffe infiruided tharn other, in fe. mnuch that at this
tirne(as by trya~lI found) mnany who profeffe them~.
kelvcs Chr~ifins, fcarce know w hat they meane by
being Io   Finally  perceiving dieznfelvs poore,
Wretched,ý eared,. -di (brace d,,.deprived ofT th cir Chii,
dred, and, fiubjed to the infio~ence of every Raskall,
'they begin to confider, and preferre rbis prefeoc
'World,: befixe that, other which thicy fq little underfiand




A Voyage into the Levant.
derftand. This turnes fo many thoufands to Mahomet4sifme, and prevailes with leffe fcandall, than fire
and fword would doe, in as much as it goes leffe
harth with a man to forget his Religion, than to defie it; for confcience wrought on by education,
holds the minde of man, as a lace wound about a bo.
dy j the rTrkiJh courfe unlaces it by degrees, as it had
beene wound up, fo bringing it offcleare; but bloody perfecution ftriving to pull it away at a fnatch,
is too fudden a violence, difordering and intangling
things fafter then they were. Thus if we view there
affaires no further than the eye of reafon can reach,
hee feemes in a probable way to taint all the Chrifli.
4ns under his Dominions; but it muft be the worke
of time; in the meane-while, they ferve to fill his
coffers, and in effct fupply him with Gibeeites,and
Husbandmen to till his Land, while his Muffelmea
are referved to the commanding employment of the
Sword. Therefore hee doth not much care for a generall converfion, as appeared in SelymaM the fecond,
who feeing a company of many thoufands 'fall
downe before him, and hold up the fore-finger, (as
their manner of converfion is) hee asked what moved
them to turne, they replyed it was to bee eafed of
their heavie taxations; hee difdaining that bafenefte,
or not willing to loofe in tribute, for an unfound acceflion in Religion, rejeted their converfion, and
doubled their taxations: Nevertheleffe particular
Convertites, if ferious, voluntary, and Perfons of
important condition, are received with honour, and
large reward, elpecially firangers; I faw at Belgrade
a feaft carryed by aboue threefcore perfons, and after
P                all,




ii            A Voyageintothe Loarst.
all,a Hork worth at leaft thirty pounds, feat from
the B*ae to one ofthere at the day of his circumcifion, and I was told hee had neere a thoufand Dollers
given by others; but beehad borne good office in
TrAdflavd a. I once met at a feaft a youth whofe
Father was Governour of a neighbour Towne in
Tr-axfva.i, iome in a jeffing manner threatned circumciflon to us both: I knowing their interelt lay
all owardshim, firfi fevered my caufe from his, and
then jefied my felfe off. But the next day, they fent
to apprehead him, and if fome of his Countrymen
had not helpt him over the Dwmbiw by night, hee
had &aene fhur up, for befide the intereffe offitate, he
was a handfone youth, and his Father able for ranfome, which are two firong motives, unleffe it bee
upon fucht errnes, there is feldome any compulfion
ofcfckience, and then not by death, where no criminall offencegivesoccafien. I did much converfe
with Reegaders, and had good opportunity by their
Italian tongue, to found what fpirits they were, and
on what motives they fell off; generally I found
them Atheifts, who left our caufe for the mTmrkiqh as
the more thriving in the Word, and fuller of preferment: thefehate us not otherwife than in (hew, unleffe where theyfinde themfelves abhorred for their
Apoflacy; then take heed, for in your ruine they get
both revenge, and reputation of zeale; but with a
move opportune behaviour, I have wonne much
courtefiefrom them, and upon occafion, put my life
at one oftheir dicretions, and found him Noble;
rhef eae the voluntary 1Rexegdses; there are another.
fort, whom hard ufage, and captivity brings In, rathee




A Voyage into the Loam.                 1l;
ther than any ambition, or diguft at home. Thefe
though nececfitate to hold on, yet they beare a great
goodwill to Cbriiftans, aid likely a deepe grudge to
the Turkes; I firft noted this by an Eunuch of the
Garrifon of elgtr4de, I had with money made him
to friend, againtt;ny neccflity of flight, I going
to vifit him in his houfe, nigh the River Djibi~a,
found him alone very drunke; hee our of that heat,
and experience of my engagement, fell to rayle a.
gainft the Turkes, and withall fhewing mee how they
had marred his game, well (quoth hee) doe you fee
that River, there feldome hatl pal weeke, fince I
have beene in this City, (which was halfe a yeare)
but Come night or other, I have throwne Come of
their children therein, and told mee that formerly in
other places, hee had done many fuch fecret revenges, for their gelding of him: before my experience
of rhefe Apoftataes, I fuppofed that their paradice
had won many from our ride; but of all that I pracifed, there was none taken either with that, or other
points of their dodrine, but manifefily with refpeds
worldly, wherefore feeing how many daily goe
from us to them, and how few of theirs to us; it ap0
peares of what confequence the profperiry of a caure
is to draw men unto ir, and how uncertainely they
judge of all other merit. The chiefe Se&Z whereof I
defired to be enformed was the lewes; whofe moderne condition is more condernned,rhen underflood
by Chrifidrn-Writers, and therefore by them delivered with fuch a zealous ignorance, as never gave me
fatisfadion: Their primitive proffflion was Shepheards, whofe innocent kinde of life had Icifure for
Pa                 the




114            A Voyage into the Lepant.
the ftudy of that iyerordrie, which in after times,
their ferled poffefion of Canarn,pur into adt; But (as
we daily fee,) Neceflitie makes (hifts', and nothing
corrupts cleare wits more then defperare forrunes,and
forreine converfation; fo it befell them in their fre.
quent Captivities, wherein the malice of their effate,
and c..cruptions of the Gentiles, did extreamely debauchrheir old innocence, and from Shepheards, or
Tillers of land, turned them to what they now are,
Merchants, Brokers, and Cheaters; hereto is added
no (mall neceficie from their Religion, which as of
old, fo at this day, renders them more generally odious,-ihen any one fort of men, whereby they are driven to helpe rhemfelves by fhifrs of wit, more then.
others are; and fo as it were bandying their faction,
againft the refi of Mankinde, they become better ftuv
dyed, and pradlifed in ralice,and knavery, then other
men: This makes them thrive notwithifanding all
their opprcions,to fuch exceffive riches,as. by themfelves,I have heard alleadged as a teflimony ofdivine,
Bern diffism  They are generally found the mofi nin-a
ble, and clMerecriofI wits in the world; which in
part, is defcended from. the originall complexion of
their forefathers, who gave notable teftimonies of a
fubtle generation; and hath beene much advantagedby their 0Wofaicdiinfituti on of Dyer; a thing of no
fmall effrct to refine the bloud, and (pirits in fo many
defcents; yet above all, I impute it to this unceffant
necefidie, and exercife of wit, which ever keeps it up,
without growing too rem'iffh, and flupid,as ufually
happens, where men are rot quickned by fuch occaLions: Hereupon it is,that cvcry rizier, and Bi/kAe of
State




A Voyage into the L eant.                 115
State ufes to keepe a lew of his private Counfell,
whofe malice, wit, and experience of Chriftendome.
with their continuall intelligence, is thought to advife moft of that mifcheife, which the Turke puts in
execution againft us; Nevertheleffe,in moft of their
converfation, I noted rather the dexteritie ofa C heater, or Mountebanke, then any folid wifdome; and
fo in their raylings at Chrif, few invade him by any
flayd politicke way of theifime, moft of them prophane him with bealUy tales or fuperflitious accounts Divers of them read the new Teftament malicioufly to cavill, and elude the miracles of Chrif/,
wickedly imputing them to confpiracie among the
Atlors, and partialitie in the Writers, as ofa Legend 5 above all places in Scripture, they abufe thar,
where it is faid, that when he was to goe up to the
Paffeover, but few dayes before his Death, his
kindred, and thofe about him did not yet belecve;
whereby they (not knowing faith to be the gift of
grace, rather then of reafon) flander his miracles for
not fo manifft: as we cosceive: Once at their celebration of a Sabbath at Niffin SerWv4h, I was walking:
with divers of their Rlbbines, efpecially one, much
reverenced by the reft, who was principall of the sygogue at Sophy*; hee would needs urge a difcourfe
of Chrifianity, where after his malice had wearied it
felfe, I asked him whether it were not an undenyable
figne of Divine ayde to our caufe, that with fuch a
mecke humilitie, as that of Chrif, had raifed it felfe
over all the proudeft Oppreffors; He (as the nature
of poyfon is to infet things of moft.contrary condition) perverting this reafon, replyed that Chrijf
P 3               camec




116             A Voyage into the Lomt.
came when the world had beene tamed by the RAmas, whof: cruell vid6ories, and heavy yoake had
broken the Spirits of moft Nations, whereupon he
would not build his Relgioi as the old Heathem had
ever done, upon Heroique brave ads, but on the con.
trary meeke humilitie of contrite hearts s which being the greateft number, (efpecially by that rime they
come to governe) caufes it to prevaile fo well; This
feeming a cold iAtheifme, he further made vaine,
with an addition concerning the feverall ages of the
World i comparing the cafe with this c..icrocofme
of man, whofe infancy is fimple; youth brave manhood firme; but his decaying age faints till the end
(hutsall up; each of there periods did hee pretend
guided by Dodrines futable, and to the latter rejeded chrOfianity, whofe humble contempt of the
World, he afcribed to the Worlds old age, (as in
man) growne weary of it felfe s After anfwer hereto,
I defired to underftand fomewhat of their Caball,
which I had alwayes held the great fecrer of the.
fewes; I demanded whether it confited in that Aritb.
metnid!fignification of letters as we-fuppofe, telling
him withall, thatit feemed ftrange, how letters, and
words which were impofed diffirently by the humor
of man, could touch upon the realiie of things in
themklves, which did not acknowledge our devices*
He anfwered, thatin part the Caball did depend upon
letters, and words, blt only Htbrew, wherein Adaw
named things when he was inflate of Inrcenucie, and
underflood their Nature; but in languages made
fince the fall, the foundation wanted; they as the iffue of confufion alure nothing thereinnthen he added
the




A Voyige into the Lomtwmi17.
the (tory of it I telling mne that -Ca4bt4fignifes trad4ite*, which was the way w hmrby it was transferr d*
from one age to another,aid that it was in fotuc meal.
fure a reparation of our knowledge loft -in the fall of
A4dam, and againe revealed from -God foure times;
firif to A4dom, who upon his ejedlion out of iaradice,
fitting very difconfolate, God (quoth -he) Lient thc
Angrell Raguell to comfort him, and finding his chiefe
forrow to be in looring the knowledge of that depen-.
dancy, and pun~tuall commerce which die creatures
have with their Creator,. and amongik one another,
the Angel for his illumination therein, irrfuitrud himof the peculiar moments of time naturafl,and proper
to each paffage, wherein things elfe impollible, might
be brought to paffe with felicity;5 hereat I told him,
that there was not in our Bible any mentio'n of the
Angel Raigme/l comforting, or inftru6fing of Adam;
whereto he replyed like a curfed lew, that the Popes
had(not only in that place,but in many others,) clipped, amplified, and mif-related, the old Teftamenth )
the better to' conforme it with their new, for their.
inf'titutions Civill, and Ecclefialticall which depend
thereon: The C~ba/I( faid he) held in tradition many
ages, tdil time with the accidents of the Floud,.and
Ba4eII, loft it: Then once more God difcovcred it to
*&Myfes in the Bufh; this he proved out of Efdrw~, a,.
Booke high in efteeme with them;s where in the fe,
cond Booke God is brought in, fayig e"arv 1 i
Mmid: weirgbdiia 6* afleidi ci tempvrtamfecretia, dCftmem.,
&ýwracepi ei diwuss &tc pda/m fadies 'uerba; hsc abfcwun
des; therefore Mtyvfres pub ifhed th'ofe..-mirabjIla theý
Creation;the law j;. and the Iir~dic bringing forth.
Of>




A Voyage into the Le2ant.
of Egyrpt; but thofe--fertatcfines tempormm,he dif.
clofed to none befide his fevenry Rulers over!frotel;
thefe traditions foone fayled, in the oppreffions under
the Phik/lins; but the third time God revealed it againe; that was to Salemoo in a dreame; for it is faid
of Saleme00 that he knew --initium,& conifummatienem,
& mcdittat em temparum; by this Art, he wrote many
Bookes-of all things from the Cedar,to the Hyfop with
divers others; all which were loft in the Captivity
enfuing: Therefore the laft time, he pretended it ref1ored to Efdrua;whom as himfelf Writes,God made
to retire fortie dayes, with five Scribes who in that
fpac@ wrote 204 Bookes: the firfl 134, God comnanded to publifh -for the reading of all, both worthy, and unworthy: The latter feventy were to pafre
private, only among the wife of the people; rhefe later 70 they pretend Caballaflique, and not yet all loft:
When I confidered this Art, it put me in minde of
what the Prophet fayes to the Church of Ifrael--Thy
bt/ibitation is in the midfl of deceivers:- for although in
things of inferiour natures, as well as in the paffions
of man, there are--moles 4ditts, &  pata tempera 4
wherein they are better difpofed for this, or that im4
preflion,then at other times, yet doe-not thefe open
them further then to an agentthartcomeS opporrune,
and in a way naturally proper to the pre-difpofitionn
of the fubjc&; thus a Feaver ig cafier cured at one
time, then another; one medicine hits one acceffe,anotherthe nexrtthe like may be- obkrVed in all things;
but to extend this beyond its due limits,and to wayes
impropper, as to wifiingwriting, fpeaking and other
charmes, which cannot reach the realieie of things,
comes




_ _1---~14-1--1


A Voyage into the Lewsan:.


"19.


comes to as profound a nothing,as Hermes his Sigi~llor
Paraceýfi his Spellagainfit Flyes: Their great councell
of Sanbedriz confifting of feventie one in imitation of
Mbyfres,and his feventie Elders,nor being able to worke
fuch wonders, did nevertheleffe (hive to continue the
reputation of the old Thearchy; to that purpofe they
glorified this devife of caball, whofi pretence of fecrer
information from God, even in their forfaken times,
ferved them as Numa his pretended meetings with the
Nymph Egeria, Ma/emets raptures with the Angell
Gabriel, and the like, to countenance their Ordinances
with Divine repute among the People; This devifc
was well framed to take with the Jewes, who general.
ly are light, ayeriall, and fanaticall braines, fpirited
much like our hot ApcdAyps men, or fierce expounders
of Drnie', apt to worke rhemfelves into the fooles Pa-a
radife of a fublime dotage: They expe6t their Meffias
with an unwearyed affurance; and as all Propheticall
delayes doe eafily find excufe,fo have they; refforing
their hope with augmentation of glory in the more
perfed tryall; At his comming,they expe& a temporall kingdome,- whereof I heard them difcourfe with
fo much guft, as feemed to have a touch of the Sadd*.
cy, whofe appetite relifhes a prefent fruition, ý better
then the flate of Refurrefion; To difcover this fully,
I told them that my thought it might feeme to them
but juft, that all thofe who had lived, and dyed conflantexpedting the Meffias, 4hould not by untimely
Death loofe the fruits of their conftancy,but be refitored to Life, at his comming, to enjoy and make up his
Kingdome; this they received with much applau4e,
and (as flattery ufes to be ) it was by them held an illu.
mination~which they embracing of mefeconded with
Q.fuch




t10             A Voyage into the Levant.
fuch a Romanzo of their future kingdome, as fhewed a
rhirtl of revenging their captivities, and therewith to
enjoy the world in that timely Refurredion: Above
all bleflings given of God, they preferre thar of... J,;
creafe atdmoulti/y; To hold it a blefling they have reafon; but why chat fhould be thought the greateft, I
know not; unleffe becaufe of their s4aldeity, ever noted
for -.projetifima is ibidixr m Gems; and fo apt to grow
like the lands of the Sea in number; or elfe for propagation of the kinde, which is the chiefe at of thoke
who confider themfelves no higherthen as parts ofthe
World,and of that taken in the bare continuance, without anyof its further operations: They may drinke
water alone, bot not wine minoled therewith, unlelfe
they have a difpenfation; that which is pure wine they
call wihe of the Law; this perhaps was one among 0.
ther reafons, why they were of old, miffaken to have
worihipped B-ucftu: when they kill any living creature, they firif turne the face of it Eafl-ward,then faying, be it fandtified in the name of the great God King
off-eaven, and Earth, they cut the throat with a knife
without any gap in the edge; if that be not obferved
they will not eate of the meateHbur hold it utterly pro.
phane; molt of the fat they call away,efpecially about
the loyne and kidnyes; that of each Mutton, or Beefe
they fearce eace halfe; thefe with many other reftritiv
ons of Dyet, I urged as difficulties of vidtualing their
Armieswhen the Meflias (hould come; but they readily falved it with power of miracks, which (hall fave
him all labour,aad care: he is expected of the Tribe of
Iudaf, which was fecled in Porsug,4 where they beafk,
and in Spaxe to have millions dfthcir race, to whom
they give compleat difpenfatiom, to counterfeit Ckriflianiti,




A Voyage into the Lepant.                 121
flirnity, even to the degree of Priefbood, and that none
are difcovered but fome hot fpirits,whofezeale cannot
temporize: This reverence to the Meffias makes them
throughout the whole world, breed their children up
in Portxgall fpeech,and make it their domeftick tongue.
The lewes of Italy, Germany,and the Levaxt, excepting
the Banditoes of spine, are of Benja4min; the other ten
Tribes in the detrudion of lerobamss kingdome by
Salmanaffer were ledde captives beyond Euphrates,
whence they never returned: in which deftruwion,perhaps worfe then this of their brethren, they had the
happineffe never to perfecute Ckril: Then I asked if
they had there degenerate into the race, and Gentilifne
of the Heathen, as our Cbri/ians have done in the Holy
Land;whom now we know not from other Turkes,burt
by fome touch of language: They afhamed of fuch
Apoftacy, told me, that thofe ten Tribes are not found
any where, hut either fwallowed like Corams company,
or as other Rabbixes write,blowneaway with a whirewinde; fo apt are light wits to imagine God k' fe glerifed in his owne glorious wayes of Nature, becaufe
ordinary, then in the puffes of their vaine devifed miracles wherein while they affed to feeme grave, and
profound they become fond, and (hallow, not knowing the waycs ofthat vertue whJich moveth al things:
In their Divine Service, they mrake one of the belt fort
to reade a Chapter of Meyfes, then fome Boy, or Rafkall readsa peece ofthe ProphetsS in the middle efthe
Sinagogue is a round place vaulted over, fupported by
pilfers; therein fometimes one oftheir Dodors walkes
up and downe, -and in Portughefe, exalts the Mefitas,
comforts their captivitie, and rayles at Chri4.
They have a Cupboord made to reprefent the TDQa               bernacle,




1 n              A Voyage into the Levant.
bernacle, wherein they lay up the Tables of the Law,
which now and then they take forth and kiffe: they
fing many tunes, but frequently that of Adonai, which
is the ordinary name of God; for rebovab they mention
not but upon high occafions $ at Circumcifion, Boyes
are fet to yall out Davids Pfalmes fo loud as dinnes the
Infants cry: the Synagogue is hunground with Glaffe
lamps burning: eyery man at his entrance puts on a
linnen Cope,firtl killing it; but elfe they ufe no manner
of reverence.or figne of devotion: I knowing difconrent apt to difclofe fecrets, got ftraight acquaintance
with one ofthem who had a great mind to turne Tmlrke;
his chiefe fcandall was, that he had often feene their
Elders in the midfl of Service fall together by the
cares,and with holy Candlefticks,Incenfe-pans, and other confecrate inflruments, breake one anothers pates:
They fuffer no women to enter the Synagogue, but appoint them a Gallery without 5 I did impute it to lealoufie; but they told me it was becaufe women have
not fo divine a fouleas men, and are of a lower creation,made only for the propagation,and pleafure of man:;
this do4rine humbles their wives below that fierce be-.
havioar,whereto competition, and opinion ofequality
might embolden them: When they turne Turke,which
is often, they muft firft acknowledge Chrift fo farre as
the Turke does, thatis, for a great Prophet, and no
more: They feldome turne chrflians,becaufe oflma,
ges, and Swinesfle[h, which they hate worfe then the
name of Chrift: they pretend (but malicioufly) that
thofc few who we fee turne in Italy are not ofthemnbut
poorCbkrfliatxs hired from other Cities, to perfonate
that part: There is fcarce any fef fo poore fpirited,
but will fometimes pretend to a miracle fo did they
for




A Voyage into the Levant.                 ML3
for all the voyage, they boafied of anapparition in
forme of an old manto this Grdn Signior,whom he ado
nonifhed in favour of the Zewes,and then vanifhed; but
at conJfIarinople, where the Scene of the Fable lay, I
could heare no fuch thing: If they were ill united, I
beleeve there would carce'be found any one race of
men more numerous; yet that they can never ciment
into a temporall Government of their owne, I reckon
two caufes, befide the many difadvantages in their RBe
Igirn: Firif the Jen'jh complexion is fo prodigiou fly
timideas caonot be capable of Armes; for this reafon
thy are no wheremade Souldiers, nor flaves, and in
acknowledgingrthe valour of Dtvids Worthies,fo different from the Moderne Febrews,appeares how much
a long thraldome may cowe poflerity beneath the Spirits of their Aunceftors: The other impediment is
their extreme corrupt love to private intereffe; which
is notorious in the continuall cheating, and malice among themfelves; fo as there would want that juflice,
and refpe& to common beneflr,without which no civil I
fociety can Rand: Thefe are thc chiefe notes which I
gathered in convening with the rewesS Now there renaifes a word,or two of the Zingahasom: they are right
fuch as our Gypfies:. I yeeld not to thofe, who hold
them a peculiar curfed ftocke: floath and' nallineffe
fingle them out from other men; fo as they are the
dregs of the people, rather then of feverall defcent:
wallowing in the dirt, and Sunne makes them more
%Warthy then others;they abound in all cities ofrTrky).
but ftIte not like ours, for feare of the cruell feven- o
tiie, they tell fortunes as cheatingly as ours, and enjoy
as little; their true ufe is for fordid officesas Broometnv,
SmithesCoblers, Tinkers, and the like, whereby the
Q, 3                 narurall




r24.            A Voyage into the Levant.
naturall Turke is referved for more noble employments: few of them are circumcifed, none Chrifined:
they weare their rags affedtedly, but wander not: their
habitation is hovels, and poore houles in the fuburbs:
contempt fecures them, and with that, leave them:
By this difcourfe, it appeares, that the Turkilh Empire
isineffed, divided in two parts; the Turkes, and other
Se6ts; unto thefe are applyed the two paffions of man,
love, and feare: fo as the Government is to keepe the
one fort fo as they (hall not defire mirchiefe; anrd the
other not able to effect it: -to the ierkes it is a fweetr
Monarchy, maintaining them to command the reft. toi
the other Seds it is heavy, holding them diffraded
with fadion betweene themfelves; difarming, rifling,
taking their goods,and children from them; and awing
them with as much infolency, as may not quire make
them runne away; Nevertheleffte the Grao Signier hath
not the inconvenience of Tyrants, which is to fecure
themfelves againft their People by Strangers, who are
chargeable, and perfidious; for he without charge, is
held up by Plantations of his owne People, who in
difcent, and intereffe are linkt with him; neither hath
he theuncertaintie of a civill Prince, who much fubfiffs on fickle Popular love; for he raignes by force S
and his Turkes are, a nuaiber able to make.i good;
wherefore he feents as abfolute asa Tyrant, as happy
as a King; and imore eftablifht then either: yet hath
he danger from both parts: love makes apt to grow
inflentr, therefore his governing multitudes are that
way dangerous.
This hath (hewed it felfe in the tumults of the Lan4
zaries, even as deepe as the blond Royall: His dangar ftom t4 ethralld Seas,iw not fo great they are
to




A Voyage into the L evant.
to far fupified, and difunited for rebllion; there is
more doubt of depopulation; yet to prevent that,
when any province bath beene overlayed, he reflores
it with a gentle Govermer, and flack exaffions; and the
rimlriatS themfelves, that their Farnes may be well
managed, hold up the Farmers with much care: There
are two notable fignes of this Empyrs flrength; one is
that moft neighbouring flates pay Tribute, or frequent
prefents, which is but another name of7'ribxte: Thc
other is that although it be generally obferved that
two, or three fucceflions of weake Princes are enough
to ruine any Monarchy; this Crowne hath now had
five weake Princes, without intervenue of any one
adtive, yet is it in no part demolithied: This prefent
Emperor, though by reafon of his age, and Come other
difadvantages, bath not yet put into aaion, is ofSpirit like to equall the bravet of his predeceffors: Now
as all bodyes, though never fo ffrong, are fobjec to
blowes from without, and difeafes within; fo is this
Empyre obnoxious to the Perfiav abroad, and errors
of Goverpment at home; One bath hapned of late years,
which hath bred pernicious diforder; that was the
mercy of L4ckmat, to his brother cmvfuta4pJma; whomhe feeing a book-man, and weake, did notdeftfroy;
this was contrary to the otboman cuflome; and left
a fubje) for ambition, and difgufl, which rather then
be without, would make one of waxe if it were poffible; much more dangerous was it to leave one of colourable pretext, where there was Co infolent a fadtioa
as the laoyzanies: They forthwith ferved their turne
hereof, who elfe had not beene provided of a King,
and fo forced to endure ofmrn, for feard of deifroy.
ing that line, in whofe defect, they fall under the petit
TIrtars,.




116,      A Voyage into the LOdNt.
-anis, which hey abborre: This gave them occalf
fion toýtafterhe -Bkiud Royall!, whefe reverence. can
never be reftored, without.-abolifhiing the order of ta..
uizarys Whi 'h -hat~h beenq, thec Sa cwo'rd hand of 'the
Emyre:fti d     fifci.air~ ight fpeake in. a morail! way,.
ft wukdtite tis a~hf 4~t, t avecu, a high one3
But itn fuch afeirce Gi'ernwext, many vertues noble,
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