A BRIEF DESCRIPTION
OF EACH PROJECTED ROUTE, AND OF THOSE NOW EXISTING,
SHO~WING THE CAPACITY OF THEIR HARBORS, THE
COMIPARATIVE ADVANTAGES OF EACH, AND THE
DISTANCE BY EACH FRO.M
NEW YORK TO SAN FRANCISCO,
FROMI THE BEST SOURCES OF INFORIMATION, AND FROMI PERSONAL
OBSERVATION AND SURVEY OVER EACH, IN THE YEARS
FROMI
18 5 G; to 1861.
By CAPTAIN SEYiVIOUtR,
NEW YORK:
HILL, CLXAYTON & MEDOLE, PRINTERS. 46 PINE STREET.
1 863.








TIlE ISTIHMIAt C   ROUTES.
A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF EACH OF THE PROJECTED ROUTES,
AND OF THOSE EXISTING-SHOWING THE CAPACITY OF
THEIR HI]ARBORS, THE COMPARATIVE ADVANT.AGES OF EACH,
AND THE DISTANCE BY EACH FRO-M NEW YORK TO SAN
FRANCISCO.
These Routes, commencing with the most Northern and
proceeding Southward in the order in which they occur, are
as follows:
1. The Telhantepec, throwgh li[exico.
2.  The Hondutras,    "   Hondltras.'3.  The  ictaragcta,   "'   iicaraguta.
4. The Chiriqwi,'    Isthmts of Chiriqui.
5.  The Panarea,          I stihmus of Panama.
1. THE TEHUANTEPEC ROUTE.
The Atlantic terminus of this route is at the mouth of the
Coatzacoalcos River, which empties into the Gulf of Mexico,
in Lat. 180 8' N., Long. 94~ 31' N. from Greenwich, and
distant from Vera Cruz about 120 miles. The Coatzacoalcos
has a bar at its mouth upon which there is but 11 feet water
at low, and 13 feet at the highest tides. The coast at this point
forms an extended indentation or *'bight," by stretching
eastward. The current across the mouth of the river is
strong, setting from East to West. The prevailing winds




4
are from the North, and during Northern gales the land becomes a dead lee shore, from which sailing vessels cannot
escape except by venturing the passage of the bar, which is
almost impossible, as it shifts with the storms. and there is
no certainty of a passage during their continuance.
During heavy " Northers," the surf on the coast is so high
that pilots are unable to board vessels, whllatever their distress or danger may be. Vessels of the lightest draft of
water are frequently wrecked or disabled in crossing the
bar, by grounding between the swells of the sea.  The
steamer " Quaker City," of 11 feet draft, struck twice on the
bar in 1858,. on her second trip with the California mails,
and, after this, was forced to lie outside and deliver them by
the aid of a small vessel, the " Jasper;" and, on one occasion,
-she had to return to New Orleans without effecting a landing.
The coast is such that every gale down the valley of the
Mississippi becomes a "Norther" near the mouth of the
Coatzacoalcos, and prevents, practically, all crossing of its
bar, or communication with " Minititlan." the port of entry,
which is 24 miles above the bar.
From  Ainititlan to Suchil, the head of navigation, is 90
miles by the river; and from Suchil to Ventosa, the terminus
of the route on the Pacific, 117 miles; making the whole distance of the route across, 231 miles.
The river Coatzacoalcos is shallow, with a shifting bottorn, and to make the navigation of the 90 miles at all successful will require the removal, not only of the numerous
snags, but the use of boats drawing less than two feet of
water. On the land route, the highest elevation above the
Pacific is 810 feet-at La Chivela Pass. The grades are 71
feet to the mile. Six bridges are required, viz.: over the
rivers Jaltepec, Jumuapa, Sarabia, Malatengo, Los Perros
and Tehuantepec, with spans of from 250 feet to 600 feet.
On the Pacific slope, the mean temperature is 81~ Fahrenheit, with annual variations from 76~ to 84~. The climate




from the Pacific shore to the base of the Cordilleras is, in general, warm, dry, and comparatively healthy.  On the Northern or Atlantic slope, the temperature is more variable; the
thermometer frequently ranging at 92~ at seven o'clock in
the morning. The climate is damp and unhealthy; intermittent fevers are prevalent, and the "black vomit" constantly exists. The productions on the Atlantic, or Northern slope, are the india-rubber tree, the ixtle plant, Indian
corn, cochineal, sweet potatoes, and most of the tropical
fruits. On the Pacific, or Southern slope, the most valuable
products are Brazil wood, campeachy, palm, of various species, cocoa, lignum-vitat, mahogany, cedar, rosewood, and the
mosquito, producing gum-arabic.
The Pacific, or Southern terminus of this route, is at Ventosa, in Lat. 16Q 21' N., Long. 95' 2' W. from  Greenwich.
This is a roadlstead open to the sea from the S. S. WT. to
E. N. E.; depth of water from  20 to 59 feet; anchorage
good, bottom being of sand and mud; rise and fall of tide,
4 feet, 8 inches.
The prevailing winds are S. W. and N., from. the month
of Novemlber to August; and during the months of August,
September and October, there are hurricanes from. the S.
and S. E., during which no ship can be safe at anchor.
The currents set up the shore, and out S. S. XT., about one
mile per hour; the sea at the landing is almost always heavy,
and frequently it is impossible to land with the best surfboats. In the years 1858 and 1859, the steamer Oregon,
after landing the mails and passengers, left foir a more sheltered point further up the coast to await the return mail.
A permanent breakwater has been proposed, and there is
no doubt this could be constructed at Ventosa, or at Salina
Cruz; but the cost would be enormous-estimated at twentyfive millions of dollars, and would involve years in construction, as well as the most complicated and difficult problems
of hydrographical engineering:
Ventosa was made a port of entry in 1857, but up to July.




1859, there had only been nine arrivals of foreign sailing
vessels, of which two were wrecked, and three parted their
cables and were drawn to sea.
THE  HONDURAS IROUTE.
The Atlantic or Northern terminus of this route is Porto
Caballos, in Lat. 15~ 49' N., Long. 87~ 57' W. from Greenwich. This port is about eight miles in area, but is unsheltered, open, and exposed to the sea from the Westward.
Depth of water from 4 to 12 fathoms. Anchorage bad; the
bottom sand. It has a small, deep lagoon at its head, connected by a shallow channel, which it has been proposed to
deepen by dredging, so as to make an inner harbor completely shut in. The strong objection to this is, that it
would become a nest for the yellow fever, which never leaves
places thus shut in, and where there is no downward current,
or heavy tidal ebb and flow to wash out the malaria. The
country about Porto Caballos is fertile, well-watered, and
wooded in the upland, but a dense, matted jungle along the
coast, and exceedingly unhealthy. The prevailing winds
are N. N. W., North, and West.
The highest elevation across this route is 2,016 feet above
the sea. The grades of the proposed road are stated not to
exceed 85 feet to the mile. The average temperature is 74~
Fah.; annual variation, 68~ to 88~. Distance from the Atlantic to the Pacific, 161 miles overland. In the interior
the climate is generally dry and healthy.
The mineral productions are gold, copper, iron, and zinc.
There is also white marble and limestone. The vegetable
productions are sarsaparilla, vanilla, cocoa, pimento, sugarcane, and indigo. The forests abound in mahogany, rosewood, lignum-vitse, india-rubber tree, pine, oak, and various
kinds of dye-woods. On the plains and in the valleys are
tropical fruits.
The Southern or Pacific terminus of this route is the Gulf




of Fonseca, Lat. 13~ 21' N., and Long. 87Q 35' W. from
Greenwich. This gulf has a number of excellent harbors,
shut in and well-sheltered. It is about 50 miles in length,
by an average of 30 miles in width. It contains four large
islands, having ports with ample depth of water. Port " La
Union " is formed by a small bay, and is the principal port
of San Salvador.  Amapala, on the island of Tigre, is the
port of Honduras.  Either of these ports has sufficient
depth of water for vessels of the first class.  The anchorage
is in from 5 to 16 fathoms.
The valleys and plains of the Pacific side are subject to
overflows, and the flooding was so great that the survey
could not be regularly made by the English Commission, yet
there seems no doubt of the feasibility of a road transit over
the route; but from the vast filling in and embankments to
avoid the overflow, it would be of enormous cost; so great,
indeed, that the scheme has been for the present abandoned
in England, where a company was formed for its construction.
3. THE NICARAGUA ROUTE.
Greytown, or San Juan de Nicaragua, is the Atlantic
terminus, Lat. 10   56' 33" N., Long. 830 43' 40" W. from
Greenwich. This port is open from W. to N. W.  Formerly
fairly sheltered, it has undergone destructive changes, and
the washing away of the sandy point which formed part of
its harbor has so filled up the entrance, that, at last accounts,
there was but a depth of four and a half feet over the bar
from the sea.  Thus the harbor is practically closed, and the
route destroyed.*
The river San Juan empties into this port over an inner
i A recent attempt has been made to reopen this route, but at this date, (October, 1863,) the M. O. Roberts line of steamers, which were to be engaged in it,
have been publicly withdrawn-onlyfotur feet of water having, upon examination,
been found upon the bar-the depth had decreased six inches since the examination of 1861; thus sustaining the theory that ultimately the depth upon the outer
and inner bar will become equal.




bar with only three feet water at low tide. It has been proposed to unite the river San Juan and the river San Pedro,
in the supposition that the union of the two would throw
out a sufficient volume of water to remove the bar. It is a
question whether the direct opposite would not be the result; for it is a known fact that, at the mouth of all rivers,
bars are formed by the check of their currents from contact
with the denser waters of the ocean. The size of these bars
is generally in proportion to the volume of water moving
through the river's channel.
The length of the San Juan River, with all its windings
from Greytown upwards, is 96 miles, six and a half miles of
which is obstructed by four rapids, caused by ledges of rocks
stretching across the entire river.
The distance between Lake Nicaragua and San Juan del
Sur is 17 miles. The country is mountainous, but the
mountains are not high, although more difficult and worse
for transit, because of their thin and sharp spurs, than if
they were of high and steady elevation.
San Juan del Sur-in Lat. 119 15' 57" N., Long. 85Q 52'
36" W. from Greenwich-the Pacific port of this route, is
small in dimensions, and open from the S., S. W., and W.
The prevailing winds from June to October flow from the S.
and S. E. During these months the access is not only difficult, but dangerous. The climate is humid and unhealthy.
There are many stagnant lagoons and marshes along the
margin of the lake and river, causing intermittent fevers,
which, when contracted by persons from temperate regions,
produce, when not fatal, great mental and physical debility.
The vegetable productions are similar to those of other
sections of the great American Isthmus, but the country is
less prolific than any other, and offers no inducements whatever along the line of the route to colonists even of Isthmian origin, and hence it is that it has never been settled.
Next in order is the projected




CHIRIQUI ROUTE.
The Northern terminus of this route is in Admiral's Bay
of the Chiriqui Lagoon, in lat. about 9Q 7' N. and long. 829
W. from Greenwich.
The Chiriqui Lagoon is the grandest harbor of the world.
It consists, indeed, of many harbors embraced in one, of vast
dimensions. This has three entrances, clear, bold, and well
defined; but as Commodore Engle, U. S. N., who was sent
out specially to examine this. harbor, has given an official
report, it is perhaps better to refer to that. He says-at
page 2, Exec. Doc. No. 41, 2d Sess. 36th Congress:
"Harbors incomparable, of a size unequaled, depth of
water in their three main entrances for our largest ships to
enter without pilots, and when fairly within can run on any
course with certainty, and anchor in good holding ground,
without fear of any one of the numerous injuries connected
with the life of a seaman.'" The shores in most places are bold; should it be necessary to wharf for the accommodation of merchant ships, it
will only be to give a solid, clean, and clear place to load
and discharge, for they can now haul alongside the banks
and secure to them. Wood for wharfing or other purposes
is at hand. This also may be said of the Pacific harbor.
The entrance to Golfito is perfectly clear, and the harbor
for safety, or in points to facilitate trading vessels, quite
equal to that of Chiriqui, but in size or grandeur neither
that nor any other can be compared to it.
" The geologist satisfactorily shows the quantity of coal
on the islands, but particularly on the tributaries of the
Changuinola River, to be abundant, as well as of an excellent
quality for commercial purposes.
" The nearest point from whence to ship the coal, I think,
will be found to be Boca del Drago, which is the main channel to the beautiful, great, and grand Almirante Bay, thirteen miles long and eight broad, connecting with those of




10
Boca del Toro, Shepherd's Harbor, and Poros and Palos
Lagoons. The two latter are more like large docks; their
entrances are narrow, not over one hundred feet wide, with
a channel of from eight to ten fathoms of water. When a
ship is in her length, on looking around you discover yourself in a land-locked basin of three and a half by one and a
half miles. Then at the foot of Almirante Bay,'so called
from its having been discovered by Columbus in October,
1503, where he remained ten days,' lies Shepherd's Island,
cutting off one and a quarter.miles of it by three and a half
long, forming a complete place for the terminus of a railroad.
There is a channel at each end of the island, giving to sailing vessels a fair wind at all times.
" This harbor, for its facilities for wooding, watering, and
easy access, with its natural beauties, makes its mark on the
minds of navigators never to be forgotten. The island is
two hundred and sixty-four feet high, and can be made a
spot of immense strength and beauty. The batteries from it
would command the entrances as well as the whole harbor
and terminus of a railroad on the southern shore. The
average height of the highest points of the islands within
the harbors is four hundred and fifty feet.
" Whenever this railroad is opened, of the feasibility of
which the topographical engineer entertains no doubt, these
harbors cannot longer remain idle, for the road will pass
through a country of gold, coal, minerals, lands which produce every fruit of the tropics of the highest order-coffee,
cocoa, indigo, rice, cotton, oranges, lemons, limes, &c. It is
much easier to say what it does not produce than what it
does, for everything seems to vegetate and give the best of
its kind. Then, on the Pacific, the plains are large, and no
bounds to the scope of pasture for raising cattle.
"At this early day I call the attention of the engineers
and managers who may locate the road, to an examination
of the line from the'Three Branches' of the Robalo River
to Shepherd's Harbor. The present proposed line will touch




11
the' Three Branches.' It is not much further, if any, from
them to Shepherd's Harbor than to Frenchman's Creek.'This harbor is near the coal-mines on the Changuinola
River, where the valleys, by the report of the geologist, are
thirty miles long by twenty broad, and where, on the Atlantic side, must be the position for active trade in coal,
agriculture, cattle raising, &c. The hills are not so high,
nor are they so rough, as those about Frenchman's Creek;
some of them are now cultivated, and all can be. But the
strongest recommendation is, that after entering Boca del
Drago you have but twelve miles to run, passing through
the most beautiful harbor of this magnificent group-no
shoals, all clear.
"To Frenchman's Creek from  Boca del Drago is fortytwo miles. You pass through the Boca del Tigre, a fine,
wide, open channel, which only requires a fort on Watercay
to command it, and a light for navigators to clear the Tiger
breaker, as well as for a point to determine the course to be
steered through the shoals to the southward of it. Then
you have twenty miles of smooth harbor surface to steam
before reaching Frenchman's Creek, the now proposed terminus of the road, which would increase the steaming distance from any of our ports, via Cape San Antonio, thirty
miles each way. Examine the line for Shepherd's Harbor.
Boca del Drago has Columbus Island on its east and the
main on its west. On entering the channel you make a
sharp angular turn and head for the main, where there
should be a fort; from this point you have two raking fires,
which no ship or ships can stand, for you have to face the
muzzle to a distance of fifty yards, then broadside, and then'stern to.' Near this point must be the great depot for the
coal from the mines, which must be brought there for shipment. It is the most available point; the distance to Changuinola is six miles."
There is now no doubt whatever of the feasibility of a
railroad across from the harbors of the Chiriqui Lagoon to




12
the Pacific harbor of Golfo Dulce. Lieut. Morton, topographical engineer, U. S. A., under order of Congress, made
a reconnoissance of the route in 1860, and his report is set
forth in Exec. Doc. No. 41, 2d Sess. 36th Congress.
Lieut. Morton's observations were directed to a single
pass-a cafion then recently discovered, and he went through
only ONE branch of this-and that, as it is asserted by residents who have since gone over, the most unfavorable of all.
Beside these cation routes, routes which cut down both the
mountain and the %upper plains in their altitude, there are
others quite as favorable, if not more so, than these deep'"baranca" or cation passes. The country is, however, a
wilderness, almost unknown, and, until these Chiriqui grants
of lands were made, had not been surveyed, or even crossed
except by the native Indians.
In 1852 James B. Cook, an English engineer of reputed
ability, was sent out by a Company formed in London, to
examine this country, and to ascertain if a carriage road
was practicable across the Isthmus of Chiriqui. A copy of
his report may be found in full at page 46, Report No. 568,
(U. S.) House Representatives, 36th Congress, 1st Session.
Mr. Cook surveyed with a theodolite, compass and chain.
His highest grades through the mountains are " one infifty,"
which is 105 feet to the mile. This is seven feet lower than
the most favorable MOUNTAIN grades of the Baltimore and
Ohio Railroad. The other mountain grades are "one in
sixty " and " one in sixty-five feet." These are, respectively, 81 and 88 feet to the mile, and these grades extend over
only about 14 miles of the road. The remaining grades, he
says, will not exceed 20 feet to the mile, while even the
higher ones can be reduced by cuttings and embankments.
Professor Manross was sent out in 1854 by the Chiriqui
Improvement Company. His ability was vouched for by
Professors Silliman and Hitchcock, as a geologist. His
duties were to examine the coal formations. After accomplishing these he crossed the Isthmus to the Pacific, made




13
observations with the barometer upon the altitude of the
plains and the summit pass. His report is given in full at
page 40, House Rep., Report No. 568, First Session 36th
Congress. He says the ascent is regular, not exceeding
three feet in the hundred, quite up to the summit. This
would give 158-4, feet to the mile as a barometrical measurement of the highest point, and allowing for the usual deflections and curves by which a road is lengthened to secure
the best grades, corresponds almost exactly with Cook's
statement.
Lieut. Morton says the highest grade over his line is 300
feet; that this is a temporary one only to cross the mountain
summit ridge, while a tunnel is being cut through the mountain below, which tunnel will take off' 2,200 feet of the elevation, and reduce the maximum grade, at its sharpest point
of ascent, greatly below 200 feet on a SURFACE grade, without allowing for cuttings and embankments; and he says
that the " Garuma" route is about 700 feet lower still in altitude, but not quite so favorable to connect with the Pacific
plains. Mr. Jeckyll, the surveyor who accompanied Mr.
Morton, and who appears to have done most of the work,
says that Morton's reported grades can be reduced from 20
to 50 per cent. (see his letter to Hon. F. H. Morse, Chairman Committee on Naval Affairs.)  This statement, therefore, of Mr. Jeckyll's corresponds almost exactly with those
of Cook and Manross.
There is, then, the concurrent testimony of three able and
scientific men, unknown to each other, each acting at a different period of time, (the personal and scientific character
of each well vouched for by parties of high position and
wholly disinterested,) that the route is entirely practicable
for a railroad with grades no higher than one of the hitherto most successful freight and passenger roads of this country. To these are to be added the express declaration of
Lieut. Morton, the Us. S. Government Engineer, who says,
at page 42, part 3d, Message and Documents of President




14
of U. S., 1860 and 1861,-" I feel warranted, however, in
"stating at this time, as the result of my examination, the
"conviction that it is entirety practicable to connect the har"bors by a line q/' railroad ADAPTED TO COMMERCIAL PUR" POSES.  The savannahs which stretch from the Pacific
"coast to the summit of the line offer a bed for the track, and
" a natural grade that needs but little improvement. Both the
"' plains and mountains abound in timber suitable for framing
or cross-ties."
Dr. Evans, the Government Geologist, in speaking of the
coal, the road, and the harbors, says:
"Depositecld, as this extensive and almost inexhaustible
coal-field is, at the largest and safest harbor on the Atlantic
coast, opposite to another harbor on the Pacific capable of
receiving at safe anchorage all the shipping engaged in
commerce between Europe and Asia; with a country rich
in mineral resources; tropical fruits in abundance; with
every variety of soil and climate as you ascend the mountain ranges; abundance of turtle and fish in the waters adjacent; plenty of game on the mainland, the islands in the
lagoon, and on the Pacific coast; with three practicable
railroad routes across the Cordilleras, in addition to the
cation route surveyed by Lieutenant Morton, as I can state
from personal observation, affording the best connection for
the commerce of the two oceans, this country offers a wide
field for American enterprise, and is well worthy of the patronage of the Government."
(See Exec. Doc. No. 41, Second Session 36th Congress,
page 46.)
This latter statement is authenticated by Commodore
Engle, of the U. S. N., and Chief of the surveying expedition, who says, at page 4, same document:
" If there had been sufficient time, Lieutenant Morton would
have been directed to examine and survey the other passes
designated by Dr. Evans, which, he states, were discovered or
observed by him during his geological explorations; and




15
that they have lower grades than the one surveyed by
Lieutenant Morton. The twelve years' experience which
Dr. Evans has had as a Government geologist and surveyor
in the Rocky Mountains entitles his opinions to consideration.
" The results of the explorations and surveys made by the
Chiriqui commission are thus demonstrated: by Lieutenant
Morton, that a practicable route for a line of railroad has
been found between the two oceans, on the Isthmus of Chiriqui.
" By Lieutenant Jeffers, the hydrographer, that the great
and grand harbors at its termini afford every requisite for
the protection of naval and commercial marine, and for all
practical purposes, to an unlimited extent. And by Dr.
Evans, the geologist, that the best coal for steam navigation exists at and near the Atlantic harbors of the Chiriqui
Lagoon."
In all the records of railroad making, it would be difficult
to find stronger concurrent testimony than is thus given of
the practicability of this route; testimony, too, by parties
unknown to each other, and at intervals of time running
over several years.
There is no other portion of the Great Isthmian strip, or
of Central America, so healthful as Chiriqui.
Mr. Cook, the English Engineer, ascribes this to its proper
causes-the lofty mountains, elevated plains, and the absence of marshes. In his report, (see page 47,) House
Naval Committee Report, No. 568, 36th Congress), he says:
"Throughout the whole extent of the road there is a
succession of mountain streams, none, however, presenting
serious obstacles to its construction, but affording to the
road a supply rarely found in elevated countries.
" Though rapid in their courses, these streams do not run
out or exhaust themselves in the dry season. The reason
of this is obvious; the peaks of the lofty mountains, rising
some thousand of feet above the line of the road, penetrate




16
the dense masses of vapors thrown up by the rapid evaporation of tropical climates, and form conductors around
which is condensed the irrigated supply of the valley below.
To this constant coursing of water may also be attributed
the extraordinary healthfulness of this entire route across
the isthmus; no other compares with it. The crossings of
l'ehuantepec, Guatemala, Nicaragua, Darien, and Panama,
are, throughout nearly their whole extent, subject to fevers
and maladies of the most fatal character; the decaying
matter of their swamps and marshes impregnate the air
with their destroying miasma, and the adventurous stranger
who seeks the alluring gold-fields of California and Australia, too often finds his grave upon the narrow strip which
divides these great oceans. Not a marsh, or swamp, or
putrefying place exists from ocean to ocean on the Isthmus
of Chiriqui. -The Chiriqui road will then, when finished,
from these natural advantages, secure to itself the great
travel, not only from the cities of the United States to California, but also from England to Australia and the East
Indies. Nor does the province of Chiriqui offer less inducements to the emigrant to settle within its borders than
will its road to the voyagers to distant lands."
" Rich and fertile plains, from which spring, in the most
luxuriant growth, the coffee-tree, yielding in abundance,
after three or four years' culture, a berry of extraordinary
flavor. The tea-plant growing wild, and requiring but the
hand of industry to make it most productive; Cotton-rice
of large grain, tobacco, flax, maize or Indian corn-the English or small-grained corn; wheat, Irish and sweet potatoes,
peas, beans, cabbages. Besides these, there are various
spices; including ginger, pepper, and a great variety of botanical and medical plants. The slopes of the mountain
ranges afford pasturage of the best description, and thousands of cattle feed wild upon their sides."
Dr. Evans, the U. S. geologist, at page 53 Exec. Doe. 41,
says:




17
"There are no prevailing diseases between the Atlantic
and Pacific coasts at the Isthmus of Chiriqui. During the
whole of my explorations of the shore line of the Lagoonthe islands adjacent-the various rivers tributary, and in
crossing and recrossing from the Atlantic and Pacific, not a
single member of my party, either the men from the'Brooklyn,' or natives, was sick. It is true, that at the unfavorable
locality of the'Mission House' at the mouth of Fish Creek,
with a marsh back of the settlement filled with water at
every rain, ana covered with vegetable matter in a state of
decomposition, washed down from the adjacent mountains,
constantly accumulating, and subjected to the heat of a tropical sun, cases of intermittent fever occurred, but they readily
yielded to a few doses of quinine. Fatal cases, if any occur,
are rare. A similar unfavorable locality in any section of
country would produce as great, if not greater, deleterious
effects. My own hammock was swung, for ten nights under
a palm-leaf roof, elevated ten feet from the ground, with the
land breeze passing over this swamp, and I suffered no inconvenience, and not a moment's ill health.
" The rainy season is a succession of sunshine and showers.
If it rains in the morning, it is usually fair in the afternoon.
And if it rains in the afternoon and night, it is bright in the
morning and until three or four o'clock in the afternoon.
Sea breezes prevail during the day, and land breezes at
night. The thermometer varies from 67Q to 870 during the
year, and towards morning it is so cool, that a blanket was
comfortable every night during my sojourn on this Isthmus.
"In describing the formation of the soil, I have already
briefly alluded to the productions of the country; but it
will not be out of place to refer to special localities and
their rich producing qualities.
"On the Atlantic side, there are many streams flowing
down from the mountains having bordering valleys; but the
most beautiful and extensive are those of the Cricamola and
of the Changuinola rivers. These vary from ten to twenty
2




miles in width; their soil is inexhaustible. Indigenous to
it are cotton, tobacco, coffee, cacao, sugar-cane, rice, and all
the tropical fruits. These do not grow in single crops, but
in succession throughout the year. Under the hand of the
cultivator, four crops a year could readily be gathered, and
of qualities inferior to none that earth produces."
The Pacific terminus of the route is Gofto, a harbor
opening out from Golfo Dolce. This has already been
alluded to in the extract from Commodore Engle's report,
but the U. S. hydrographer, Lieut. Jeffers, thuis describes it
(at page 43, Exec. Doe., No. 14): —" This beautiful harbor,
situated twenty miles from Punta del Banco, on the eastern
side, and midway between the entrance and bottom of the
Gulf of Dolce, is unsurpassed in natural facilities. Favorably situated for entering with the sea breezes and leaving
with those from the land, both of which are regular. There
is no bar or other obstruction at the entrance, which is
upwards of half a mile (1,200 yards) wide, and about a mile
in depth, with an excellent anchorage in good holding
ground, in five, seven and twelve fathoms; having the chart,
no other guide than the eye is necessary. This outer harbor
is separated by a sand spit, a mile in length, by a few feet
in width, (around the northern extremity of which, there is
an excellent channel eight hundred yards wide, with upwards
of five fathoms of water,) from the inner harbor four miles
in length, with an average breadth of one mile.
" The inner harbor has about a square mile of anchorage,
with a depth of five fathoms, (sufficient for the largest ships,)
and about three square miles of anchorage for vessels of
smaller size.
"On the northeast side of the harbor, opposite the entrance, there is a range of hills several miles in length,
parallel to the coast line, of an average elevation of about
fifteen hundred feet, leaving a strip of level, generally but a
few yards wide, between their bases and the shore line. On
this side of the harbor, and for a distance of upwards of




19
-three miles, not less than five fathoms of water is found
within half a cable's length of shore, affording ample room
for wharves sufficient to accommodate any probable number
of vessels frequenting the harbor, if the proposed road
should be built.
"' Three streams —the Golfito at the eastern, and the Corisal and Cahiaza at the northwestern extremity-empty
into the harbor; neither of these navigable, but either affording an ample supply of fresh water for the proposed
town.
" There is one level spot sufficient for the site of a large
town; but the several valleys running back from the shore
in the aggregate would give about a square mile of building
sites. The whole surface, to the tops of the highest hills, is
densely wooded, excepting the sand-spit, and a small spot of
about three acres, near the entrance, under cultivation. A
great variety of these woods are valuable for ship-building
or for other constructions; different woods excelling in the
qualities of durability, hardness, and strength."
The temperature is represented as cool and agreeable:
average 6 A. M., 74Q; meridian, 83Q: 3 P. M., 84`; 6 P. IM.,
789.
This harbor was also surveyed under orders of the Emperor Napoleon, by Captain Colombel, September, 1851, and
that survey verified in June, 1852, by the French Admiral
Odet Pellion; they unite in closing a very full description
of it in this expression: " The Golfito is an immense natural
basin, or great bay of deep water, and would make the
finest military post in the world."  See House Rep. Report,
1st Sess. 36th Congress, No. 568, pages 74-76.
THE PANAMA ROUTE.
Aspinwall, the Atlantic terminus of this route, is situated
at the upper part of Navy Bay. This bay is formed by an
irregular semicircular indentation of the coast, southward




20
from its general lines; the broadest portion of the bay is its
entrance, and that faces nearly due north; consequently it is
completely unprotected from the prevailing winds, which
are from the north, and even a moderate sailing breeze
throws up a heavy sea upon the structures intended for
wharves, so that they cannot, save in dead calms, be used
for landing purposes. During a gale, or " norther," no vessels can lie in the port with safety, but are forced to weigh
anchor, not unfrequently to slip their cables, and proceed to
sea. Porto Bello is their nearest place of refuge. Wrecks
are not unfrequent within the very harbor of Aspinwall, and
it is entirely out of the question to attempt a landing of
freight or passengers during the slightest northers. The
town of Aspinwall is located upon a small coral island,
known as " Manzanilla,'  which is some five or six hundred
feet from the main shore, and is connected therewith by the
railroad bridge. The place has no fresh water, and the inhabitants, as well as the vessels to the place, are dependent
upon and forced to send to Porto Bello, some twenty-five
miles distant. And even this supply is a monopoly, the
water being brought down in pipes to the shore, and sold
at a high rate by the Steamship Company, its alleged owners.
The Panama Railroad extends in a southeasterly direction
across the Isthmus, its length between the harbors, Navy
Bay, and Bay of Panama, being forty-seven miles. The long,
patient, and expensive effort devoted to the construction of
this road, is worthy of all praise. Its construction is con.
elusive proof that there is no physical obstacle on land
which may not be overcome by modern science and energy.
The line of country traversed by it is almost a continuous
swamp, and where the swamp is intermitted and higher lands
occur, especially hills-these hills being of decomposed porphyry-the cuttings and embankments of the road were subjected, and still are, to slides and crumblings, while the portions extending over the swamps have never had stability. A




21
gradual settling down of the structure exposes it to frequent
inundations; and recently, within a few months, a portion
of the road was rendered impassable from this cause.
These evils cannot be effectually remedied; and hence, this
road would never answer for transporting large masses of
heavy freight, even if the harbors were suitable for its reception and delivery. It will meet the requirements of a
passenger and light fieight route, until some great disaster,
such as the sudden sinking of a portion of the road, with a
passenger train thereon, will drive even this business to a
surer route. Such a disaster may not occur; but its occurrence is neither impossible nor improbable, and there have
been serious indications of such an event.
The climate along this route is deadly. The miasmatic
effect, known as the Chagres fever, extends from ocean to
ocean, and it is almost fatal to any one from a Northern
climate to remain even a few days at any one point. If he
escapes with life, he carries away a broken constitution, with
the certainty of a return of the fever upon any slight exposure.
The City of Panama, the southern terminus of the route,
is situated upon the bay of the same name, both too well
known to require any lengthened description. The bay
affords but slight harborage; large vessels cannot approach
nearer than five or six miles to the shore. All reception
and discharge of freight is performed by lighters-and
these can only be employed at high water; for the ebbing
tide lays bare three miles of foul, offensive, muddy bottom,
which, at that time, renders approach from the sea to the
city impossible. A wharf has been constructed out a por
tion of the distance, and it was contemplated to extend amole out to deep water. Engineers, however, estimated
that this work would equal the original cost of the entire
railroad, and would even then be uncertain as to durability;
hence it was abandoned, and the road exists without an
available harbor for a great commerce at either terminus.




22
Two other routes have been proposed. The Darien and
San Miguel, and the Atrate and San Juan. Expensive and
disastrous surveys of these have produced only such information as to cause their entire abandonment.
The problem of a " Shorter route to the Indies,"' a direct
means of communicating from the Atlantic to the Pacific,
has from the earliest date of commercial enterprise engaged
the earnest attention of nations, and of individuals. To
solve the problem, Columbus steered his western course,
thus discovering the continent we now inhabit; and it is a
-most remarkable fact, that the first portion of the main-land
-;ouched by him was the true point for its solution. This
was the Isthmus of Chiriqui-the harbor he entered the
~ Almirante Bay," in the Chiriqui Lagoon.
Like other nations, our own has given careful attention
to this problem, and we find that Mr. Jefferson thus wrote:
" The report of a survey of the Isthmus of Panama is to me
a vast desideratum, for reasons political and philosophical;"
and Mr. Clay, when Secretary of State in 1825, wrote:' The deepest interest is taken by the United States in
the execution of an undertaking (the Nicaragua Canal)
which is so highly calculated to diffuse an extensive influence
on the affairs of mankind."
Mr. Forsyth, Secretary of State in 1835, says: "Mr.
Biddle, whom President Van Buren has thought proper to
employ specially for the purpose of gathering information
relative to the prospects for connecting the Atlantic and
Pacific Oceans;" and President Taylor, in his message of
1849, says:
"A contract having been concluded with the State of
Nicaragua, by a company composed of American citizens,
for the purpose of constructing a ship canal through the
territory of that State, I have directed the negotiation of a
treaty with Nicaragua, pledging both governments to protect those who shall engage in and perfect the work. The




23
routes across Tehuantepec and Panama are also the subject
of our serious consideration."
From the year 1849 to the present time, surveys and
experimental openings of supposed good routes have followed each other in rapid succession, until the information
set forth in the foregoing description of each has established
the following results:
1. That the geographical position of Tehuantepec would
afford many advantages for a postal and military route from
the Southern ports of the United States; but the radical
defect in its harbors, and the impossibility of improving
them, deprive it of all consideration either for these uses, or
for the commerce of the North Pacific. If the harbors were
good, other and lower routes would have the entire advantages in competing for the South American- and the South
Pacific trade.
2. The Honduras route, extending through a section of
country almost entirely under the control of Great Britain,
even were it positively practicable, would be of little advantage to the United States; but the narrow, confined and
extremely unhealthy harbor at its Northern or Atlantic
terminus, together with the vast cost of constructing the
road, has caused its present consideration and construction
to be abandoned by its British projectors.
3. The Nicaragua route, under its many changes, and the
zealous efforts of each of its possessors to extend it to commercial capability, has failed. The quicksand formation of
a large portion of the San Juan River, and the rocky ledges
which in other places break it into falls and rapids, defy
practical improvement. The darling scheme of a French
Emperor, the fostered enterprise of American energy, it has
baffled each, and finally, the utter destruction of its Northern
harbor by the surging waves of the Atlantic, has removed
it from competition with other routes; and until the currents of the river and the waves of the ocean shall reunite




24
in forming a harbor at San Juan or its neighborhood, " the
Nicaragua route" is of the past.
The Panama route is now the only existing transit across
the Isthmus. Notwithstanding the great and irremediable
defects in its harbors, it has answered the great purpose of
mail and passenger transit, and thus far a safe means of
transmitting the gold of California to Atlantic ports. The
almost barbarous condition of the population of Panama
offers, however, but slight guarantees for the future; and
while the mob spirit of the place threatens life and property,
the defective harbors afford but little means for the United
States to protect its people and treasure, while in tralsitu;
and the hazards have increased with our political difficulties.
A further important consideration is, that this route, in
twelve years, will pass to the control of Great Britain.
New Granada reserved in the grant the right to take the
road at the end of twenty years, by paying the grantees for
it (and its equipments, all of which were to be kept in complete order) the sum of five millions of dollars. The road
and property cost ten millions. The necessities of New
Granada forced her to borrow. money in London upon this
right of resumption, or foreclosure, which was pledged as
the security. Without revenue, that government cannot repay this debt; and the result must be, that the parties, in
1874, will take possession of this inter-oceanic highway,
under the name of a British company, paying to the present
Panama Company the amount stipulated in the grant to
them.  The United States can interpose no obstacle to
this-it is a legal right reserved by New Granada, and
transferred by her to British subjects.
Vast interests to the United States are dependent upon
an inter-oceanic transit, held exclusively by her people, over
the American Isthmus. Whether this be at its sectionsthe Isthmus of Tehuantepec, the Isthmus of Nicaragua, the
Isthmus of Panama, or the Isthmus of Chiriqui-is wholly
immaterial, so that the conditions of transit route are ob



25
tained. The conditions or qualities are, good harbors at
the termini, a solid foundation for the road, a healthful climate, and facilities to protect the people and property to be
passed over it, or while at its termini.
Motley, the historian, in his late letter upon the American
troubles, says: " The division of the national domain, the
"navigation and police of the great rivers, the arrangement
"and fortification of the frontiers, the transit of the Isthmus,
"the mouths of the Mississippi, the control of the Gulf of
"' Mexico-these are significant phrases, which have an ap"palling sound, for there is not one of them which does not
"contain the seeds of war."  Mr. Motley might have added
to his sentence: " Seeds which can only germinate through
the weakness of the Nationnl Government in failing to place
each of the three first in its relative position of strength,
and in permanently securing and guarding the three last by
possessing, through its citizens, the proper and effectual
point for naval strength and inter-oceanic transit upon the
Isthmus."
The 36th Congress, by authorizing a commission to examine and report upon what was believed to be the best
Isthmus crossing, has placed the true information as to its
merits before the Government. That commission, composed
of distinguished officers of the navy, army, and civil service,
in their report, leave no further room for doubt. That report shows, that
The Isthmus of Chiriqui has " harbors incomparable, of a
"size unequaled, depth of water for the largest ships to
"enter without pilots; when fairly in, to run on any course,
"and anchor without fear of any one of the numerous inju"riep connected with the life of a seaman."
A route between, and connecting these harbors, which,
though difficult in parts of its length, is yet feasible throughout the whole; and the road, when made, will have a solid
and durable foundation, and this through a country health



26
ful, rich, productive, all that can be expected or desired in
the luxurious abundance of a tropical region.
The legal rights of property in these lands, harbors, route,
&c., is in the hands of American citizens.
These harbors, the coal, the healthful road route, stamp
this as the highway of nations between Europe and Asia,
between the United States, Asia, and South America. If
this highway is controlled by the people of this country, it
will largely control the commerce of all countries. Cities
will be founded and grow up at its harbors, and from them
will radiate an influence which cannot now be appreciated.
The harbors and route are beyond the limits of the Clayton-Bulwer treaty, and free from its entanglements. Either
the United States, or Great Britain acting under the grants
of the Chiriqui Improvement Company, may control the enterprise and found these cities. Whichever shall do so will
thenceforth hold the scales of commerce in her hands, to
mete out such portions as she may determine to other nations.
The Chiriqui route has the practical advantage in time or
in distance over all others. This will be apparent by drawing an accurate scale of degrees upon any globe. It will
be seen that the distance isFrom Liverpool to San Francisco, via Panama..........7,980 miles.
From Liverpool to San Francisco, via Nicaragua.......7,720 miles.
From Liverpool to San Francisco, via Tehuantepec...............7,440 miles.
From Liverpool to San Francisco, via Chiriqui.........................7,390 miles.
In every route but Chiriqui the sailing distance is increased by the deflection of course round the West India
Islands, or the projection of Santa Mala, which forms the
Bay of Panama, in the Pacific. To and from the harbors




of Chiriqui, on the Atlantic and Pacific, are direct lines,
without bend or deflection.
If the Tehuantepec were a practicable route, then it would
be shorter in distance via New Orleans, (the inland route
thereto,) but as a sea route, with its deflection round Florida, and upwards into the Gulf, it is rendered of nearly the
same length; while its entire want of harbors and coal for
steamers places it at once outside of any estimate for general commercial purposes. The actual distances from New
York to San Francisco'are as follows:
New York, via Panama, to San Francisco.. 5,224 miles.
"'        Nicaragua    "           4,700   "
(I"       Tehuantepec  "           4,200   "
I ~"    Chiriqui          "        4,684   "
From Europe to Australia or China the Chiriqui route
has an average advantage of about three hundred miles
shorter distance than any other.
When the actual saving of distance, of time in entering
and in delivering of passengers and cargoes without the
necessity of resorting to boats or lighters, and the local supply of coal at rates to defy competition in the other places
named, together with the healthful'climate, are taken into
consideration, it will at once be apparent that the Chiriqui
stands without a rival.