IIL9 na It I I I At. k ,I CI -ty: 1, I.7B+ Y03 1 d~tl~CAlw 4. p -i f x\. I HON. BERNICE PAUAHI BISHOP. bhe f)lemoirs of Ibon. lJernice jpauabi 1i3obop Mfari Ibl.Rrout COPYRIGHT, 1908 BY CHARLES R. BISHOP ~be knickerbocker Press, 1evw Nork S s: ' -;vF v ~i e.i.aQ yt.S t Y<' i '.a., t.w.I i " *,i.t-~, [. PREFACE. N preparing the memoirs of the Hon. Bernice Pauahi Bishop there have been many difficulties to contend with. The most irreparable have been the loss of invaluable correspondence and the death of friends who were intimately associated with Mrs. Bishop in childhood, girlhood, and in her later years. A short time previous to the destruction of San Francisco a great number of her letters had been collected and carefully filed by her cousin, Mrs. W. F. Allen of Honolulu. These were sent to Mr. Bishop, in San Francisco, and were consumed in the burning of the hotel where he resided. Mrs. Bishop had the pen of a ready writer, as the letters which were fortunately preserved and are included in this volume plainly show. She possessed keen powers of perception and was peculiarly happy in narrating her observations of people and events -all the incidents of the varied and picturesque life that went on about her. She was also exceedingly frank and open, iii iv and her letters reflected her all-abounding sympathy and affection,-strong essentials of her character-in an unusual degree. The one aim, constantly in view, throughout these memoirs, has been to let that character speak for itself. To this end, letters, or extracts from letters, have been utilized that might seem, otherwise, unimportant. The record, in its entirety, is that of a strong and noble personality; the unflagging and faithful devotion of an alii to her friends, her family, to her people, and the land she so loved,-Hawaii nei. M. H. K. HONOLULU, H. T., January 7, 1908. CONTENTS CH APTERPAG GE I.-BIRTH AND ANCESTRY... I IL.-KONIA AND PAKI.... 6 IIJ.-KINAU, THE FOSTER MOTHER.. 14 IV.-THE ROYAL SCHOOL....24 V.-MRS. COOKE.....32 VI.-OTHER REMINISCENCES... 43 VII.-MRS. COOKE's DIARY AND LETTERS. 51 VIII.-HoME LIFE AND HOLIDAYS.. 59 IX.-FURTHER ACCOUNTS OF THE SCHOOL. 68 X.-A TRIP TO THE VOLCANO...77 XI.-FINAL SCHOOL-DAYS.. 84 XII.-THE MARRIAGE OF BERNICE..94 XIII.-SUBSEQUENT EVENTS.. 101 XIV.-HomE LIFE....III XV.-OTHER REMINISCENCES.. 12I XVI.-CORRESPONDENCE.... 130 XVII.-CORRESPONDENCE: ARRIVAL IN ENGLAND. 139 XVIII.-CORRIESPONDENCE: V I S I T S W I T H FRIENDS.... 155 V VI CHAPTER PAGE XIX.-CORRESPONDENCE: THE RETURN TO EUROPE... XX.-CORRESPONDENCE:. PRESENTATION TO POPE PIUS IX I 75 XXI.-CORRESPONDENCE: PRESENTATION TO QUEEN VICTORIA. I83 XXII.-MISCELLANEous LETTERS.. 197 XXIII.-FINAL EVENTS.. 204 XXIV.-LAST LETTERS... 2I3 XXV.-ILLNESS AND DEATH.. 218 XXVI.-CONCLUSION..... 228 XXVILI-THE KAMEHAMEHA S C H00LS, AND BERNICE PAUAHi BISHOP MUSEUM 238 INDEX.... 2511 ILLUSTRATIONS HON. BERNICE PAUAHli BISHOP. Frontispiece FACING PAGE ABNER PAKI....... 6 L. KONIA....... II MRS. JULIETTE M. COOKE....28 KAWAIAHAO CHURCH IN 1908.65. MRS. BISHOP ABOUT 1854...101 HALEAKALA I 04 HON. C. R. BISHOP..... III GARDEN AT HALEAKALA.....ii6 MRS. BISHOP NENUA, 1875...i66 KEOUA HALE..... 197 VILLA AT WAIKIKI.....204 THE BUNGALOW WAIKIKI... 215 ROYAL MAUSOLEUM...218 DRAWING-ROOM AT KEOUA HALE...222 MEMORIAL CHAPEL....228 THE BERNICE PAUAHi BISHOP MUSEUM..233 KAMEHAMEHA SCHOOL FOR GIRLS...242 HON. CHARLES R. BISHOP, 1906...244 vii I MEMOIRS OF BERNICE PAUAHI BISHOP CHAPTER I BIRTH AND ANCESTRY. IT occasionally happens that a character, retiring and in no way self-assertive, makes a salutary and enduring impression upon the history of a nation. Such characters are as rare as their influence is beneficent. They are content to mould the public mind passively, through force of example, in the quiet and undemonstrative ways that are possible in the seclusion of private life. They have no selfish ambitions to gratify; no desire to wield active authority, or to exercise official prerogatives. But, brought into prominence by the accident of birth, or by extraordinary moral and intellectual endowments, they stand in the place " to which God has called 2 them " as shining examples, steadfast through all the changes which time ordains. It is, in reality, the vital force of conviction rooted in conscience; of an adherence to principles which no material considerations can affect. The history of Bernice Pauahi Bishop, her life, the influence which she exerted upon her native land and upon the race which she so loved, is an illustration of this truth. It was, in epitome, the history of her times in their more peaceful aspect, apart from the political disturbances from which Hawaii was no more immune than other older and greater nations, among whom, even yet, the science of government is imperfectly understood. She will be assigned an honorable place amongst the great women of her race whose moral and intellectual qualities expanded under the just and humane teachings of Christianity,-Kaahumanu, Kapiolani, and Kinau. Bernice Pauahi, however, will stand as the full development of the best type, rejecting proffered authority, preferring the happiness of unostentatious private life. Her mother, Konia, was a chiefess of the highest rank. She was a direct descendant of Kamehameha I. and of the ancient Kings of Hawaii. She had been accustomed from in 3 fancy to the submission which the common people yielded their superiors, and which often developed in them great haughtiness and arrogance. With this there was, frequently, a responsibility for the maintenance and well-being of their retainers, a trait which was strongly marked in the daughter of Konia. Such chiefs exercised over their dependents not so much the power of rulers as the natural authority of parents, providing for their wants, excusing their faults, and treating their shortcomings with parental leniency. Konia placed that high estimate, common amongst all classes of Hawaiians to this day, upon her descent from the great Kamehameha, born conqueror and ruler. The following genealogy, giving the ancestry of Konia, and her daughter Bernice Pauahi, is said to be correct, being substantiated by Fornander, an accepted authority on Hawaiian genealogy.1 "Kamehameha I. had to wife in his youth Kaneikapolei (w). There was born to them Kaoleioku, called also Pauli Kaoleioku. This chieftain had to wife Kahailiopua, called more commonly Luahine, and they had a I "Polynesian Races," by Alexander Fornander, vol. i., p. 335. 4 daughter, Konia, who was married to Abner Paki. Kaoleioku, by a previous wife, Keoua (w), had a daughter, Pauahi, who was, by M. Kekuanaoa, the mother of Ruth Keelikolani." The superior rank of Keopuolani, who was the mother of Kamehameha II. and Kamehameha III., gave her children precedence over the child of Kaneikapolei. Kaoleioku, the ancestor of Bernice Pauahi, was publicly acknowledged by Kamehameha I. when threatened with death after the assassination of Keoua, the son of Kalaniopuu, contending with Kamehameha for the vindication of his rights. In a paper read before the Hawaiian Historical Society in I903 by Dr. N. B. Emerson, an authority on Hawaiian history and folk-lore, this account of the incident is given: "He [Keoua] does not fall alone; he has many to keep him company (he nui na moe pu). Ke-e-au-moku continues the slaughter under the very eyes of Kamehameha and within reach of the sound of his voice, until -with but one exception-every one of Keoua's immediate escort, from the highest chief to the lowest, has poured out his blood. " The second and large division of Keoua's 5 escort, at some remove from the first, was under the command of Ka-olei-o-ku, Kamehameha's natural son... The slaughter would have gone on and included these; but at this point Kamehameha interposes his veto. "' You have killed my hanai-foster child, (or foster parent), and I will kill yours', said Kelii-mai-kai. "' He shall not die; he is the child of my youth,' answered Kamehameha. The command of the King goes forth; the hand of the slayer is stayed and the rapacious war-god, Ku-kaili-moku, has to be content with the victims already provided for his altar." CHAPTER II KONIA AND PAKI. KONIA married Abner Paki, a chief of high rank also descended from the Kamehameha and Kiwalo families of Maui and Hawaii. His father was Kalanihelemaiiluna and his mother was Kahooheiheipahu. He was born on the island of Molokai about i8o8. He was an intimate friend of Kamehameha III. and held various posts of importance. In a directory containing sketches of Hawaiian history of much interest, by C. C. Bennett, this information is given in the announcement of Paki's death, which occurred June 13, 1855: "He held during his life some high offices of trust and honor; being at different times one of the judges of the Supreme Court, Acting Governor (of Oahu), Privy Councillor, Member of the House of Nobles, and Chamberlain to the King. The most prominent feature of his character was firmness; when 6 ABNER PAKI. I 7 he took a stand he was immovable. On the death of Kamehameha III. he prophesied that he would survive his royal master but a few months, though he was in his usual health at the time." Konia survived her husband for two years, dying July 2, 1857, at the residence in Honolulu, in King Street, " Haleakala." Konia and Paki lived at Lahaina when that was the capital, and the King and the Premier, Auhea, had their residence there. Some interesting reminiscences of Konia and Paki at Lahaina have been gleaned from the diaries of Mr. Gorham D. Gilman, now a resident of Boston, who in his youth engaged in mercantile pursuits in Honolulu, and made tours through the various islands, either on business, or for his own pleasure and enlightenment. Of his kind friends he writes as follows, at that time setting out on a tour around the island of Maui. "Sabbath, June 26 (I845). LAHAINA. "In the evening called on my old friends, Paki and Konia. As I expected, they invited me to occupy a room in their fine new house, which I was happy to do." 8 At this time he also writes: "Called on Paki and Konia, the parents of Bernice and the foster-parents of Lydia,1 and the first of the nobility that I became acquainted with. They have always been very kind to me, she (Konia) calling me her 'keiki' (child). The Premier has also done so. Konia conferred quite a favor on me by lending me a nice travelling calabash, not wishing to take my trunk, being too heavy." At this time Lahaina was the capital and the favorite residence of King Kamehameha III. It was an important port, being thronged during the season by vessels engaged in the whaling trade, the families of the officers often accompanying them and spending the winter in this pleasant place. The King finally realized that it was necessary to transfer the seat of government to Honolulu and did so, Paki and Konia accompanying him. The change was made by the King very reluctantly, for, as Mr. Gilman observed, he much preferred the retirement and leisure which he could command at Lahaina. Upon this point Mr. Gilman writes: 1 The ex-Queen Liliuokalani. 9 "Monday, 27-January (I845). "The day passed pleasantly and as the vessel is detained by his Majesty [Kamehameha III.] to transfer his people and effects to Honolulu, I yet occupy my room. The kindness I received from these persons of rank is but a continuation of favor they have shown me since my arrival in these islands. Their house is a frame one, thatched very neatly and very prettily furnished inside. My room is within six feet of the sea as it breaks against the embankment, and the lulling music of the surf soothes to sleep. I am provided with such bed-room articles as are necessary for my toilet. I was sitting with Konia this evening and conversing; hour after hour passed. One after another of the attendants dropped off; those that remained sank to sleep, yet we talked on till the hour of midnight warned us to seek repose. I shall not soon forget the subject of the conversation. " In his unpublished sketches of the "Chiefs of Honolulu," at the court of Kamehameha III., Mr. Gilman has thus written of Paki in detail: "A. Paki is one of the conspicuous personages in the [audience] room, being upwards of six feet-six feet four inches-in height, and weighing about three hundred IO pounds. Although of this colossal size, he is of equal and fine proportions-no one feature being more prominent than another. He generally stands to receive the visitors and exerts himself to be attractive and affable. He is of high rank by birth, as well as stature, and, it is said, at one time had more land and tenants than his Majesty himself, which, for some political eruption, were taken from him and the others concerned. And for the same reason, he had never received any appointment of influence other than he holds as one of the superior judges. Be this as it may, he seems to be now in full favor and truly loyal, and is receiving again some of the lands formerly held. He is one of his Majesty's aides and always accompanies him on visits to different parts of his Kingdom. As Chamberlain, he presides over the internal economy of the palace, the expenditure of funds, etc., and one sight of the whole premises shows that every attention has been bestowed [on them.] He speaks English but little, tho' he often attempts it. He is a member in regular standing of the Mis. Ch. [Kawaiahao] as also is his wife, a chiefess of direct descent from the Kings of Hawaii, and noted for her kind heartedness and hospitality. Tho' not figuring conspicuously at Court in Honolulu, she is known and regarded as one of those who are patterns. Miss Bernice is their daughter, in whom they feel a justifiable pride." L. KONIA. II To this may be added a reminiscence of Mrs. Rice, one of the pioneer teachers still living at Lihue on Kauai. She also recalled Paki as a man of towering height and proportionate strength of which she once witnessed a remarkable exhibition. He had driven down to the beach upon the sailing of a vessel and the horses attached to his carriage-spirited creatures-became frightened and attempted to run away. Paki did not try to check them with the reins, but threw himself across the plunging animals and held them by main force, as he might have held a pair of unruly dogs, and so succeeded in quieting them. In a more recent account of the parents of Mrs. Bishop, Mr. Gilman says of Konia: ''She was one of nature's true noblewomen, such as were to be found in that then unenlightened country. She possessed the elements of a strong character and was a recognized force, not only in the administration of her own affairs, but when the King, Kamehameha III., formed his first body of high chiefs into a council of the government, she, with a few others of like birth, were selected as his advisers. She was naturally of gentle manners, and physically was rather short of stature, though inclined to stoutness. 12 The daughter, Bernice, inherited her mother's grace of manner, and those qualities whereby all recognized her inheritance of birth and blood. Paki was a fitting companion for Konia." Mr. Gilman also relates the following anecdote: "An instance which very forcibly illustrates Konia's character is recalled. A young man had attempted to make a genealogical record of the reigning King and the high chiefs, and had pursued his object for some time. He had secured his information from various persons who had a knowledge of the descendants of the old kings. When Konia learned what was being done, she summoned the young man to come to her. On entering her presence he saw at a glance that she was displeased. There was no kindly welcome, but this abrupt challenge: "' Have you been making a paper about the King and chiefs?' (It was the first of its kind.) 'Where is it?' "' It is on board a ship of war in the harbor and will be taken to England,' was the reply. " 'Who told you these things,' she asked, 'what right had you to be so presumptuous?' " She continued to question the offender in this strain for some time and in a manner that he never forgot. "After such explanations as were possible 13 without betraying confidence, her anger cooled. She became the sweet forgiving woman that she was, habitually, and the interview ended on her part with a motherly injunction not to attempt again such tampering with royal names and pedigrees. The trouble arose from the introduction (by one of the family) giving as an ancestor a royal person not generally recognized as a legitimate ancestor, though the descendants were very ambitious to have it so acknowledged. "The huhu [anger] over, Konia's kindly heart was ever open, and her softest mat and all the privileges of her hospitality continued. Her memory is treasured as one who has passed on to the better land." CHAPTER III KINAU, THE FOSTER MOTHER. THE Kuhina nui, Regent during the minority of the King, and Premier after his accession, has been aptly called by Doctor W. D. Alexander, the historian, the "Vice King." The office was a peculiar recognition amongst the Hawaiians of the ability of women to take part in the councils of state, and to exercise actual authority, which the kings frequently seemed willing to delegate to them. When their subjection to the arbitrary laws of the tabus is considered, the office, with its great influence and its important prerogatives, seems inconsistent with their position in general. Kaahumanu was so highly esteemed by Kamehameha that no one was ever permitted to enter her presence, but himself, with uncovered head. She was chosen by him to rule jointly with Lihoho, as Premier. She retained her authority throughout her life, and was the firm and faithful friend of the 14 15 missionaries. To her influence may be credited the abolition of the tabus, and the ready acceptance of Christianity by the people. She died at her home in Manoa Valley, June 5, 1832. The site of the house can still be traced amongst the thickets of lantana, by which it has been almost obliterated. Mrs. Judd has thus described her death: "A bed of sweet scented maile and leaves of ginger was prepared over which was spread a covering of velvet and on this she laid herself down to die." 1 Her conversion to Christianity effected a remarkable change in her character; from a haughty, arrogant woman she became gentle and sympathetic. At the time of her death she was fifty-eight years of age. Jarves says of her: "She was a firm and conscientious Christian to the last, beloved by those who intimately knew her and universally respected for her abilities." She met death with fearlessness and composure, saying: "The way that I am going the house is prepared-send the thoughts thither rejoicing."2 Her body 1 Honolulu: Sketches of Life in the Hawaiian Islands, by Laura Fish Judd, p. 47. 2History of the Hawaiian Islands, by James Jackson Jarves, chap. x., p. 296. i6 was placed in the royal tomb at Honolulu. Kinau succeeded Kaahumanu as Premier, with the title of Kaahumanu II. Her character also had been transformed by her conversion to Christianity, being mild and just where she had been tyrannical and passionate. She did her utmost to restrain the King in his tendency to extravagance, and endeavored to shield him from the temptations which beset him through bad associates. A faction representing the worst element in the islands endeavored to persuade him to depose Kinau and proclaim Liliha Premier in her stead. The King, however, although apparently alienated and in sympathy with the reactionary spirit that threatened to carry everything before it, was not insensible to the steadfast virtues of Kinau. It was a marked trait in the character of the Kamehamehas-this ability to recognize true worth, to estimate it at its value, and to trust implicitly those whose acts were their best vindication. The scene which ensued, when the partisans of Liliha supposed that they were about to triumph, has been thus described: "The chiefs were present; the revocation was upon his the [King's] lips, when he unex 17 pectedly turned to Kinau and solemnly confirmed her in office. The effect was electric; all perceived the days of misrule were numbered. When expostulated with for not carrying out his intention, he gave the significant reply: 'Very strong is the Kingdom of God.'" 1 Kinau was married to Kekuanaoa, a chief of good birth, a man of excellent character and great natural ability. He was Governor of Oahu, and a judge. He was placed in charge of the public records and the diplomatic correspondence. This brought him into close relations with foreign consuls and the commanders of men-of-war, who frequently even then called at the port of Honolulu. Kinau had four children, the Princes, Moses Kekuaiwa, Lot Kamehameha, the Princess Victoria Kamamalu, and Prince Alexander Liholiho. Prince Moses and the Princess Victoria died early in life, while Princes Lot and Alexander Liholiho came to the throne under the titles of Kamehameha IV. and V., respectively. Kinau, like her predecessor Kaahumanu, t History of the Hawaiian Islands, by James Jackson Jarves, chap. x., p. 140. 2 was an adherent of the church and the firm friend of progress. She was one of the foremost patrons of the Royal School, which was established with the royal sanction, and warmly supported by the high chiefs. In the midst of much social and political retrogression, Kinau stood as a great moral force in the midst of her people. As the King became more and more indifferent to his duties, she too, became disheartened and at length came to Mrs. Judd and said: "I am in sore straits and heavy hearted, and I have come to tell you my thought. I am quite discouraged and cannot bear this burden any longer. I wish to throw away my rank and title and responsibility, together, bring my family here, and live with you; or, we will take our families and go away together." Mrs. Judd referred her to the story of Esther, and pointed out to her the necessity of maintaining her rank and responsibility as the only hope of her people.1 Fortunately for the country, she accepted this advice and remained at her post. Like the great queens of England, both she and Kaahumanu displayed much wisdom in their 1 Honolulu: Sketches of Life in the Hawaiian Islands, by Laura Fish Judd, p. 52. I9 choice of advisers, whose opinions both respected. Kinau built a comfortable stone house adjoining the palace, which was well kept, and a servant was trained to make bread, cake, and custards under Mrs. Judd's tuition. The overworked instructor in domestic science wrote at this juncture: "This gives me a good deal of trouble, as only part of the materials were furnished, and I was expected to supply all deficiencies." At the birth of Bernice Pauahi, her desire to adopt the child could not be denied, sanctioned as it was by custom, and her wish, as Premier, being law. Mrs. Judd met Kinau at the bedside of Konia and wrote: "We make the toilette of the pretty little lady. She is to bear the name of Bernice Pauahi, and will be taken from her mother in a few days." The name "Pauahi," which was always preferred by her own people, was first given one of the wives of Kamehameha II. It originated in an incident which occurred in her childhood. By an accidental explosion of gunpowder she narrowly escaped being burned to death. Five men were killed in the catastrophe, her mother's house was 20 destroyed, and she was badly injured. In commemoration of her escape she was given the name, which is "compounded of two Hawaiian words,-pau, "finished," or "completed" and ahi, "fire," which, liberally translated, means, "the fire is out." In the ceremonies which took place at the accession of Liholiho, - Kamehameha II., - Pauahi commemorated this event by descending from the couch in which she had been borne in the procession, and setting it on fire with all the elaborate decorations, her attendants imitating her example and casting quantities of clothing, tapa, and costly foreign cloth into the flames. Mr. Gorham D. Gilman gives a further account of the adoption of Bernice: "She was claimed by Kinau," he states, "the daughter of Kamehameha I., for her adopted child and taken to her own home where she was to all intents and purposes her own daughter. Each parent exercised a like choice, which was not participated in by both. Kinau had, at the time, three children of her own, who were chosen by noble chiefs as their sons; Moses, who was adopted by the Governor of Kauai; Lot by the Governor of Maui; and Alexander by the King, Kamehameha III., the youngest of the three, who 21 became by his adoption, and in due time, Kamehameha IV., though his elder brother was living and did not succeed to the throne until after the death of the younger." Another incident is recalled by Mr. Gilman. A young tamarind tree was planted on the day of Bernice's birth which grew to noble proportions, but was finally cut down to make way for modern buildings. Mr. Gilman writes: "Bernice lived with Kinau until she was eight years old, when she was sent to the Royal School. Paki and Konia," he continues, ''were very desirous of retaining her as their own. After the death of Kinau, Governor Kekuanaoa yielded reluctantly to this wish, for he and the other chiefs had become very proud of the promising child. At the urgent request of Konia and Paki, regular, official, and legal papers were made out, and, much to their satisfaction, the child was restored to them." Mr. Gilman remarks: "I doubt if she ever made any lengthened stay with her parents; probably nothing more than a call, and then with her old kahu [attendant] returning at once to the school." At the birth of the much desired daughter, Victoria, who was born November i, 1838, Bernice Pauahi was returned to her parents. 22 She was then eight years of age, and was one of the first pupils to enter the Family School for Young Chiefs, or the Royal School as it was more commonly known. It is not believed by those who knew Paki well, that he ever meant to surrender Bernice permanently to her foster mother. Prior to that time there had been no valid law regulating the adoption of children, a practice common among the Hawaiians. They were taken at birth by their foster parents and returned at will to their own parents, or to others who expressed a wish to receive them into their families. About the time of the return of Bernice, however, a law was enacted regulating adoption and making the bond between foster parents and child a lasting one. It is thought that this may have influenced Paki, who was always proud and fond of Bernice, and that he was instrumental in bringing about her restoration to her own mother, Konia. Kinau died in April, 1839, in the stone house adjoining the palace which has been mentioned. It was not occupied for several years after her death. She lay in state for three weeks in the drawing-room. The house was declared by the children of the Royal 23 School to be haunted. The family of Dr. Judd moved into the house in I843. It was taken furnished, just as it was left. The ceilings were lofty, the windows were very large, and the walls were papered, a decoration greatly admired in those primitive days. CHAPTER IV THE ROYAL SCHOOL. IN all the annals of education there has never been a more stirring record than the story of the establishment of the first schools in the Hawaiian Islands. Upon the arrival of the pioneer missionaries, in the Thaddeus, off the coast of Kohala, March 31, I820, it was learned that "the tabus were abolished, the idols burned, and the temples destroyed." 1 The old religion was a tissue of falsehoods devised by the priests for their own enrichment and to perpetuate their power. The common people and the women, of all classes, upon whom the tabus fell most heavily, with few exceptions, gladly received the mild and humane teachings of Christianity. The first company of teachers, secular and religious, consisted of two clergymen, their wives, and three Hawaiian youths who had 1 A Brief History of the Hawaiian People, by W. D. Alexander, chap. xxiii., p. 174. 24 25 gone to the United States on whaling ships, were educated at Cornwall, Ct., and returned as interpreters and assistants. The King, Liholiho,-Kamehameha II.,came on board the Thaddeus, and was hospitably entertained by the Americans. Through the influence of John Young, who had enjoyed the confidence of Kamehameha I., the missionaries were given permission to remain one year in the country. Two were to reside in Kailua and the others in Honolulu. So salutary was the influence which the missionaries exerted from the first, that not only were they permitted to remain permanently but a warm welcome was extended to those who came after them. Being of sound New England stock, the work of the schoolmaster was rated second only to that of the minister. They were pledged not only to benefit the people spiritually but to enlighten their minds as well. With the establishment of churches, schools were opened, and by command of the King and the high chiefs, young and old, high and low, were forced to receive instruction. At the blowing of a conch shell the people poured out of their houses and hastened to that set apart as a schoolhouse. 26 Dr. Alexander has thus described this wonderful wave of progress which swept over the land: "Before the end of I824, two thousand people had learned to read, and a peculiar system of schools was spreading rapidly over the islands. Each chief sent the most proficient scholars in his retinue to his different lands to act as teachers, with orders to his tenants to attend school. The eagerness of the people to acquire the new and wonderful arts of reading and writing was intense, and at length almost the whole population went to school." Compare this spirit with that which has prevailed in civilized countries where the instruction of their laborers has been as much a matter of indifference to the landowners as to the people themselves! It accounts for the rapid strides which the country made toward a constitutional form of government and the enactment of wise and just laws. In addition to the general schools, the American missionaries were induced to receive the children into their households, where they were instructed, not only from books, but in the domestic arts; the boys in the use of tools and in agriculture, and the 27 girls in needlework, cooking, and other branches of housekeeping,-knowledge which they readily acquired. As the work progressed certain reactionary influences began to make themselves felt. Some counter influence was necessary. "As that class of chiefs whom we found on the stage in 1820 were leaving it, one after the other," writes Rev. Hiram Bingham, "and younger ones were taking their places, it was deemed highly important to win and educate their juvenile heirs, who were expected, eventually, to be the acting chiefs of the country. It had been difficult to detach them from their numerous attendants and difficult otherwise to teach them in our families, and equally difficult to train them properly in any of the schools for the common people. The object was, however, made to appear so important, that the mission and both the parents and the children came at length to concur in the design of a boarding school exclusively for this interesting class. Such an institution was therefore established in Honolulu in I839. A house was erected in the form of a hollow square, suited to accommodate a mission family and some twenty boarding and lodging pupils with schoolroom, parlor, dining-room, bed-rooms, etc. The charge of it was committed to Mr. and Mrs. Cooke. The expenses of the institution, 28 including the buildings, the scholars, and the teachers (after the first year or two), are sustained by the parents or the government, the King [Kamehameha III.] being the special patron of the school. "John II (afterwards chaplain to the court) and his estimable wife, Sarai, are attached to the institution, and exercise an important and useful guardianship over these royal and noble pupils. The parents of the pupils are highly satisfied with the management and success of the school. The pupils have signed the temperance pledge, which they observe with constancy. They take exercise with the teachers on horseback and otherwise. The boys ride well. All sing, and usually join in the morning and evening song of praise. They are among the most constant attendants at church on the Sabbath. They have school exercises five and a half days in the week, and spend much of their evenings in reading and writing journals. The boys sometimes read while the girls sew. They are taught in both English and Hawaiian. Misses Jane [Loeau] and Bernice play prettily on the piano-forte. The school presents a happy, promising group of fourteen children and youth of rank, who in their attainments and manners are engaging and respectable. The Commander of the Exploring Expedition [Lieut. Charles Wilkes, U. S. N. ] says: "' I have seldom seen better behaved chil MRS. JULIETTE M. COOKE. 29 dren than those of this school. They were hardly to be distinguished from well bred children of our own country, were equally well dressed, and nearly as light in color.' "1 Mr. Bingham, as proof of the obedience of the young girls, relates this somewhat quaint anecdote: "Some four years later a reply, in English, made by one of the female pupils in the name of the school, to a naval officer, who had wasted his eloquence in favor of balls, will illustrate their docility, advancement, and amiableness: 'Our teachers seek our good, sir. They have experience and know what is best for us. We have confidence in their judgment and have no inclination to do what they disapprove.' "2 Jarves, the historian, also testifies to the excellence of the school, seven years later, and commends "the laudable zeal" of the government "in educating the young chiefs, who by birth are destined to fill important posts." "For the purpose of bestowing upon them a solid and practical education in the English language," he continues, ''embracing not only the usual studies pursued in the better class I "A Residence of Twenty-one Years in the Sandwich Islands, by Hiram Bingham, A.M., etc., p. 581. 2 Ibid. 30 of seminaries in the United States, but to engraft in their minds the habits, thoughts, moral and domestic education which children of their age and circumstances receive in civilized countries, in I839 they were taken from their native parents and out of the sphere of mere Hawaiian influences, and incorporated into a boarding school under the charge of Mr. and Mrs. Cooke, teachers of the American mission. During the seven years the school has been established their progress has been rapid, and they are now versed in the common branches of an English education, besides being practically acquainted with the tastes, household economy, and refined domestic life. The annual expense of the school is now about $5000. The number of scholars fifteen."' The pupils at that date, 1845, were: Moses Kaikioewa, son of Kekuanaoa and Kinau, born July 25, I829, Expectant Governor of Kauai. Lot Kamehameha, son of Kekuanaoa and Kinau, born December ii, 1830, Expectant Governor of Maui. Alexander Liholiho, son of Kekuanaoa and Kinau, born February 9, 1834, Heir Apparent, by adoption, of the King. 1 History of the Hawaiian Islands, by James Jackson Jarves, p. 179. 3I Victoria Kamamalu, daughter of Kekuanaoa and Kinau, born November, 1838, Premier by birth. William C. Lunalilo, son of Kanaina and Kekauluohi, born January I, I835. Bernice Pauahi, daughter of Paki and Konia, born December 19, I83I. Jane Loeau, daughter of Kalaniulumoku and Liliha, born 1828 [month and day not given.] Elizabeth Kekaniau, daughter of Laanui, born September ii, I834. Emma Rooke, daughter of Fanny (Kekela) Young [daughter of John Young], born January 2, 1836. Peter Young Kaeo, son of Kaeo and Lahilahi [daughter of John Young], born March 4, i836. James Kaliokalani, son of Paakea and Keohokalole, born March 29, 1835. David Kalakaua, son of Paakea and Keohokalole, born November 16, 1836. Lydia Makaeha, daughter of Paakea and Keohokalole, born September 2, 1838. Mary Paaina. Kinau Pitt, son of W. Pitt Kalaimoku. CHAPTER V MRS. COOKE. TO the narrative of Mr. Bingham concerning the school, Sheldon Dibble has also added the following which is included in a general summary of educational conditions in the islands at that time: "Next may be noticed the Family School for Young Chiefs. The reasons for establishing such a school were fully considered in the General Meeting of the mission in June, I839. There seemed to be no school with which they could be advantageously connected. If they should enter the seminary, 1 or other boarding schools, it would be necessary, of course, that they should stand on a level with the other scholars and be governed by the same rules. But such an equality of treatment they were not expected to acquiesce in. They were unwilling, therefore, to connect themselves with the boarding schools, and the missionaries hesitated in encouraging them to do so.... "That they should be in school and under l The Missionary Seminary at Lahainaluna. 32 33 regular and systematic training, was viewed, of course, to be of immense importance, both in regard to their own welfare, and the welfare of the nation. The old chiefs were rapidly disappearing, and if their children were the persons to fill their places, it was vastly important that they should be well prepared. Times had changed. It could no longer be expected that ignorant chiefs would be able to rule the nation. To acquire a good education, or to become extinct as chiefs, were the only alternatives. " It was felt, also, to be a matter of immense importance that they should know, by their own delightful experience, the happiness and the excellence of a well regulated family, and thus stand as high, at least, as any of their countrymen in the scale of civilization." In I843-four years after the founding of the school-we learn that "A number of the scholars are already beginning to use English text-books, and are acquiring, through that medium, a knowledge of Arithmetic, Grammar, Geography, and other like studies"; also, that "six or eight of the oldest scholars have made considerable progress." Foremost amongst them was Bemice Pauahi, who throughout the entire time she was a member 1 History of the Sandwich Islands, by Sheldon Dibble, P. 327. 3 34 of the school, from the beginning, through the more advanced classes, showed great diligence and proficiency. In addition to the English text-books, more than sixty works had been translated into the Hawaiian language, and printed on the mission press at Lahainaluna for the use of pupils in general. Amongst these were Elementary Lessons, Scripture Catechism, Universal Geography, Fowle's Child's Arithmetic, Animals of the Earth, with a chart, Catechism of Genesis, Geometry for Children, Tract on Marriage, Sacred Geography, Colburn's Intellectual Arithmetic, History of Beasts, Tract on Astronomy, Sixteen Sermons, Colburn's Algebra, Tract on Intemperance, Dying Testimony of Believers and Unbelievers, Pilgrim's Progress, Legendre's Geometry, Abbot's Little Philosopher, and Bailey's Algebra. The list of books indicates the taste of the teachers-a mingling, after the most approved New England methods of that day, of science, morals and theology, in all of which the pupils were well grounded. A word must be said as to the thorough instruction which they received in both the arts of speaking and writing the English language. It is a well-known fact that, 35 with all the alleged improvements made in the modern school systems of the United States, both in the higher institutions and in the public schools, a comparatively small per cent. of the pupils read or write with fluency and correctness, while their knowledge of arithmetic is equally imperfect. The children in the Royal School, judging from results, received the most thorough and painstaking training in all three,-spelling, writing, and arithmetic. As will be seen from the authority quoted, they frequently occupied themselves with writing in the journals they were required to keep. Many evenings were devoted to reading aloud, thereby acquiring a love for the best literature, and an appreciation of what constituted the best, a taste which remained with Bernice as long as she lived. Mrs. Cooke, herself, wrote well, with that lucid diction which nowadays threatens to become a lost art,-with charm and accuracy, and a delightful and enlivening sense of humor. Her clever pupil, naturally endowed with the gift of expressing herself elegantly and clearly, profited by the advantages which instruction at the hands of such a teacher obtained for her. From girlhood, Bernice 36 was an interesting and brilliant conversationalist, ready to talk upon almost any topic, with the distinguished men and women whom she met at school and who enjoyed her hospitality in her later years. In the correspondence which has been reproduced, — many of the letters written in the haste and excitement of travel, others when she was in failing health-there was not found a single lapse in grammar or spelling; and this cannot always be shid of those who have devoted themselves to writing as a profession. To this fortunate instruction, also, Alexander Liholiho [Kamehameha IV.] owed his scholarly knowledge of the English classics, of history, and of Shakespeare, a large part of which he committed to memory and recited with appreciation and feeling. It was most fortunate for the young alii, Bernice, that she should have been placed in the charge of such a woman as Mrs. Cooke at so early an age, when the mind and heart, naturally quick and responsive, were most sensitive to influences for good. She was but eight years old when she entered the school, where she remained until her marriage. From the first, Mrs. Cooke perceived the pupil's superior intelligence, and felt for her 37 the affection of a mother for a loving and dutiful child. The pupil returned this interest with confidence, respect, and affection. The friendship between them never altered; it endured as long as Bernice lived. Mr. and Mrs. Cooke arrived in Honolulu April 9, 1837, with the seventh company of missionaries who sailed from Boston to their far-off field in the mid-Pacific. Amos Cooke was born in Danbury, Ct., Dec. i, I8Io. In June, 1839, he and his wife, with the approval of the King, Kamehameha III., took charge of the school. In 1849 he became superintendent of secular affairs for the Congregational Mission in the Hawaiian Islands. He was relieved in I85i and entered mercantile business with S. N. Castle-both being still prominently represented in Honolulu by their successors and descendants. He was a deacon in the Foreign [Congregational] Church for fifteen years and died in Honolulu March 25, I871. His wife, Juliette Montague, was born in Sunderland, Mass., March Io, 1812. She was married in Danbury, Ct., November 24, i836. She remained in the Royal School for eleven years, from the time it opened in June, 1839, until it passed into the hands of the Superintendent of Public 38 Instruction. Of the list of chiefs given by Mr. Bingham, but two are now living, Lydia Kamakaeha (ex-Queen Liliuokalani) and Elizabeth Kekaniau 1 (Mrs. Pratt), who is still residing in Honolulu. In later years the children of the missionaries were received as day pupils. Of these Mr. W. W. Hall, Miss Helen Judd, Mrs. S. G. Wilder, and others are still living, all of whom were friends of the young chiefs. Mrs. Cooke's acquirements were many and varied. She had received a remarkably liberal education for her times, and to this was added an enthusiastic love of reading, which was a life-long source of enjoyment; with this was as great a love of music. This her children inherited, especially Mrs. Mary Turner, whose debut in grand opera Mrs. Bishop has mentioned in her letters to her cousin. Mrs. Cooke was also a model housekeeper, as will be shown later,-working miracles with the frequently scanty materials at her disposal. She also possessed remarkable social qualities, and in this respect, as in all others, was pre-eminently qualified for the 1 The spelling is thus given in Jarves's History of the Hawaiian Islands, p. I79. 39 position which she filled. An important part of her duty was to receive and entertain the many naval officers and other distinguished visitors who, when in Honolulu, always made it a point to visit the Royal School. This characteristic she retained to the end of her long life,l and those who had once known her never failed to pay their respects to her upon their return to the Islands. On all important occasions her attendance was always desired and no gathering was considered complete if she were absent. Yet notwithstanding this she was one of the most modest of women, never volunteering her opinion unless when it was a matter of conscience and she felt it her imperative duty to speak. Then she expressed herself, always kindly and with moderation, but firmly and plainly. No one could have been by nature more retiring,-less self-seeking. The important place which she held always in the social, educational, and religious life of Honolulu was never sought; it was universally conceded, and most urgently insisted upon by those who knew her best. 1 Mrs. Cooke died at her home in Honolulu, August 1I, 1896, at the age of 84. 40 Her contemporary, Mrs. Laura Fish Judd, paid her this tribute: "The choice of teachers [for the Royal School] was most happy. In Mrs. Cooke the pupils enjoyed the instruction of an educated and intellectual woman, combined with the cheerful, judicious counsels of an affectionate mother. It was a great pleasure to visit them and trace their progress in mastering that difficult language-the English-through the medium of which they acquired in due time a knowledge of all the branches necessary for a substantial education. A natural taste for music and drawing was also cultivated, in which many of them excelled."1 Another close friend, the venerable Mrs. Rice, who has been mentioned in the preceding pages, a teacher in the early days at Punahou, also paid a high tribute to the devoted teacher whose precepts and consistent example had such a lasting effect upon the mind of her pupil, Bernice. Mrs. Rice said in a recent conversation: "Mrs. Cooke had wonderful skill in all departments of housekeeping-a fine sense of order, a love for tidiness, and she was very l Sketches of Life in the Hawaiian Islands, by Laura Fish Judd, p. 94. 4I skilful with her needle, both in making clothing and in millinery work, the making and trimming of hats and bonnets. There was always a good book at hand, on her table, and she would take it up and read, or be read to, whenever she had a moment's time." Bernice is mentioned in Mrs. Cooke's letters at this time as reading aloud remarkably well. The teacher and this favorite pupil were constantly together, indeed they were never separated until the latter's marriage. She shielded Bernice from all harmful influences as jealously as she shielded her own children. For her, too, it may be taken for granted was the safety and seclusion of the "tabu yard," which she describes in her journal. Mrs. Rice describes Bernice at this period as a slender, graceful child, with an exquisite figure. Her hands, always small and remarkable for their beauty, were perfectly formed, the fingers delicate and taper, having been partially shaped by the manipulations of her nurses in babyhood, a custom that formerly prevailed amongst all Hawaiians of high rank. She had beautiful dark hair that fell in a cloud of lustrous, silken ringlets to her waist, and her skin, as 42 in infancy, was fair. Mrs. Rice recalled having once seen her not long before her marriage, with her hair arranged in a coil on the top of her head, and she begged her to have the curls loosened to fall as nature had designed them. The ex-Queen Liliuokalani also thus describes the personal charms of her fostersister: "She was one of the most beautiful girls I ever saw; the vision of her loveliness can never be effaced from remembrance; like a striking picture, once seen, it is stamped upon memory's page forever." 1 Hawaii's Story, by Hawaii's Queen, p. Io. CHAPTER VI OTHER REMINISCENCES. THE ex-Queen Liliuokalani generally commends the Royal School, especially the family life. She states that the pupils "were allowed to return to their homes in vacation, as well as for an occasional Sunday during the term. The family life," she continues, " was made agreeable to us, and our instructors were especially particular to teach us the proper use of the English language." She describes her arrival at the school as follows: "I can remember now, my emotions on entering this first school I ever attended. I can recall that I was carried there on the shoulders 1 of a tall, stout, very large woman, 1 The children of high chiefs were thus carried about by their attendants. Elizabeth Kaaniau (Mrs. Pratt), one of the pupils of the school, has related how she was thus taken by her nurse to see an execution in the old fort, without the knowledge of her parents. Her elevated position gave her a plain view of the terrible spectacle, which threw her into an agony of fright from which she did not soon recover, the struggling figures haunting her for days. 43 44 whose name was Kaika (she was the daughter of Governor Kanoa, and they were of a family of chiefs of inferior rank, living under control and direction of the higher chiefs). As she put me down at the entrance of the schoolhouse, I shrank from its doors, with that immediate and strange dread of the unknown, so common in childhood. Crying bitterly I turned to my faithful attendant, clasping her with my arms and clinging closely to her neck. She tenderly expostulated with me; and as the children, moved by curiosity to meet the newcomer, crowded about me, I was soon attracted by their friendly faces, and was induced to go into the old courtyard with them. Then my fears began to vanish; comforted and consoled, I soon found myself at home amongst my playmates."' Kawaiahao Church was that which the King and the Court attended and to which the royal children were also required to repair every Sunday. This also has been described by the same writer: "We never failed to go to church in procession every Sunday in charge of our teachers, Mr. and Mrs. Cooke, and occupied seats in the immediate vicinity of the pew where the King was seated. The custom was for t Hawaii's Story, by Hawaii's Queen, chap. i., p. 6. 45 a boy and a girl to march side by side, the lead being taken by the eldest scholars. Moses and Jane had this distinction, next Lot and Bernice, then Liholiho with Abigail, followed by Lunalilo and Emma (after the latter had joined the school), James and Elizabeth, David and Victoria, and so on, John Kinau and I being the last."' In addition to the morning service Mrs. Laura Fish Judd has given an interesting account of that held on Sunday evening in the palace drawing-room. "The pupils of the Royal School attend and constitute a choir, as they have fine voices," she wrote. "One of the young ladies [Bernice] leads the singing with the melodion. Mr. Richards usually conducts the service. He understands the language well and the habits of the people and chiefs so that he can adapt truth to the heart and understanding. The King always attends and the other evening remarked upon the contrast of this scene and the gross idol worship of his ancestors."2 For Mr. Richards Mrs. Bishop felt a warm friendship which continued as long as he lived. As she grew older, looking back upon 1 Hawaii's Story, by Hawaii's Queen, chap. i., p. 7. 2 Honolulu: Sketches of Life in the Hawaiian Islands, by Laura Fish Judd, pp. 154, 155. 46 her school-days, she never altered her opinion concerning his intellectual attainments, and his faithful and unselfish devotion to the Hawaiian people. He took a deep interest in the pupils of the Royal School from the beginning, and enjoyed the entire confidence of the King and high chiefs. Mr. Richards was appointed Minister of Public Instruction in 1845 and organized the native schools, the pupils being taught from text-books translated into the Hawaiian language. Mr. Richards died in I847. Mr. Gorham D. Gilman, extracts from whose diaries have been quoted in the preceding pages, has also left his impressions of the school, written from personal observation. He, too, highly commended the choice of teachers, who, he remarks, have "most happily contrived to share the confidence of their royal patrons, who evince increasing interest in the institution." He thus commends the zeal of some of the parents in forwarding the work: "Some who claimed kin with royal blood aided with their hands, as well as by their servants, in the erection of the walls; the scholars also assisted," he writes, "and the Heir-apparent helped to build the house that 47 was to be his home while he was obtaining his education." Mr. Gilman gives this account of Bernice at that time, probably about I845, although no date is recorded. "Of the young ladies, the eldest is Miss Bernice Pauahi, whose parents are both of high rank, tracing their descent from the old Kings of Hawaii, at the time of the discovery of that island by Captain Cook. "She has always been more under foreign influence than most of the other pupils of her age. She was a very favorite adopted child of Kinau, daughter of the Conqueror, who was a strong friend of the mission, and who early placed her young charge within its influence. "She is now a young lady and combines a well cultivated mind with much grace of person, and although not privileged with what is a 'finished' education in modern style, she would win golden opinions in any circle. She is of middle statue, of light complexion, and of much ease of manners, plays and sings prettily, and will adorn any station she may fill in her native islands, being probably the best educated of all the Hawaiian girls." To Mrs. Cooke, he pays this deserved tribute: "The female pupils seem to be strongly 48 attached to their teacher, Mrs. Cooke. She certainly has well-grounded reason to be proud of her pupils, who show, conclusively, that she has spared no pains to impart what she had the power to command that would conduce to their happiness, and make them fill the station which their rank imposes upon them. "Possessing a well-balanced, well-regulated mind, with much tact and discretion, she is also a woman that induces both confidence and esteem. She has succeeded in a rich degree in imparting a portion of these happy traits to some of her-pupils, at least." Of their daily life he has left this pleasant picture: "Attached to the principal building is a large garden that is very neatly arranged and laid out into walks bordered with flowers. In one part of this garden is the schoolroom, a pleasant apartment for study. The branches taught are similar to those in good schools in the United States, from the youngest pupils, with easy lessons, to the higher branches of mathematics, astronomy, chemistry, etc., with exercises in composition and declamation. The study hours are in the forenoon and the P. M., while the morning and evening are devoted to some healthful amusement, riding, particularly, in which they all excel. The evenings are spent in a social manner, with 49 reading or music. Having seen a good deal of distinguished society-the visits of gentlemen from abroad-they appear easy and at home. "Although they seldom associate with the people, they are much thought of by them and their appearance is always hailed with pleasure." The following extracts have been taken from the official reports of Mr. Amos Cooke, to the government: "Nov. 4, 1847. "For the last six months the two eldest girls, Jane and Bernice, were excused from some of the regular duties of the schoolroom that they might assist in the domestic concerns, and also teach the other girls both to play on the pianoforte and to sing. These two also played and sang together for one hour daily. "The other members of the first class (Lot and Alexander) during this time have attended to Flint's Surveying, and Colt's Bookkeeping. These four have had one lesson daily together in Comstock's Philosophy. "Now there are but three in the class [Jane having married John R. Jasper] and they have lessons daily in Thompson's Legendre and Comstock's Chemistry. "Bernice alone now teaches music and at 4 50 that time the boys are going on with surveying and book-keeping." "May, 1848. "During the last year some of the time of the two eldest girls has been devoted to lessons in Domestic Economy, and in giving lessons to the younger girls on the pianoforte and in singing. This is especially true of Miss Bernice during the past eight months." CHAPTER VII MRS. COOKE'S DIARY AND LETTERS. THE following letters and extracts from Mrs. Cooke's diaries and correspondence give a graphic account of the general management of the School for Young Chiefs, with the daily tasks and amusements of the pupils, as well as the cares and responsibilities of the teachers. Only such selections were made from the mass of material placed at my disposal, through the kindness of Mrs. Cooke's family, still residing in Honolulu, as had a direct bearing upon the training and influence thrown about the young chiefs. The first is from the diary, which was kept for her sister, Miss Fanny Eliza Montague, then living in Pittsfield, Massachusetts. It antedates the opening of the school by some two months, Mr. and Mrs. Cooke, at that time, having charge of a smaller, private school supported by the mission, with a separate residence. She gives an account of the superstitious fears of the children 51 52 which, at first, were a source of considerable difficulty to the teachers. "April 15, I839. "On coming home from the school, I was told by some of the scholars that they had made the discovery that Kinau (the late high chief) had been prayed to death by her old kahuna. I inquired how they found it out. They said: 'by the pit that was dug under her seat in the meeting-house.' I told them it was not there; that it was a mea hoo punipuni (a thing to deceive). They said: "' But thus it has been with us; many have died in this way. One of the kahunas gets offended, and by prayer and sorcery the person dies.' " When Kinau's son came for his lesson I asked him about it and he gave full credence to it. How deep-rooted is superstition! How lasting is early impression! Formerly this was, as they say, a practice with them. The individual prayed about always found it out in some way,-would begin to lose his appetite, refuse to eat, pine away, and die. This shows how great an effect the imagination has upon the body." " June 7, I839. "We have seen and heard much of interest since last I wrote. The General Meeting is one of great interest. This meeting is one 53 likely to affect our situation materially. The King and Chiefs have presented a petition to have a family set apart to teach the young chiefs of this nation and they have requested that we might be the ones. The mission, after consideration, have consented. This idea of a school did not originate with them, but they have consented and seemed desirous of having it done. We all feel that it will be an experiment, and many prophesy that it will be a failure. The plan is, to take the children from their parents and bring them up in a regular way. What we fear and expect is, that they will not persevere in their attempt to give their children up entirely to our management, and unless they do this it will be all in vain.... They are indulged in every way by their kahus, who wish to get high in favor so that when the children have power, they (the kahus) may profit by it. We have commenced having a school with some of them (five). They appear very lively and fond of play, and we hope they will, ere long, be as lively at their books. We expect to teach them in English, and should be pleased to get at a book store and select some interesting books for them, as we expected to teach only in the native language and did not come supplied with children's books. " The chiefs are to build us a house for the purpose. The plan of it is drawn and the foundation laid already. It is to be built 54 of mud [adobe] and after the Spanish fashion, an open court in the centre, and will probably be completed in about three months. I have many fears about it, having seen the children when they seemed quite unmanageable. But Dr. Judd is to stand by us and says if there is any difficulty we must send for him. He has great influence with the chiefs and is very anxious to have the school succeed. If we do succeed in educating and instilling into them right principles of action, we shall be doing more for the nation than we could do in any other way. The eldest (Moses) is about ten years of age. He is now, or would be, if there were no schools, Gov. of Kauai. His old grandfather died about two months ago, and he has been down, was proclaimed Governor, and has returned to school." In the following letter addressed to Miss Montague, who afterwards became Mrs. Stockbridge, now residing in Baltimore, she wrote: "April 28 [I839]. "Have been down to call on the chiefs on account of the sickness of Moses, the good son, who is my scholar in English. He has been having the mumps, has been 1 Dr. G. P. Judd at that time, as throughout his life, had the entire confidence of the King, exerting a most salutary influence in the government. 55 sick about a week, is getting better and seemed pleased to see us. " On arriving at the elegant stone building of the chiefs we were told that they (the chiefs) were in the houses without. We went on, conducted by Pauahi, the Governor's 1 daughter, who is my scholar, and arrived at a grass house built in the native fashion with no window or air-holes, excepting the door. Here we were met by the Governor [Paki], who invited us in, saying that Auhea was sick. This was a [half] sister of Kinau who is expected to take her place until Victoria, Kinau's daughter, becomes of age.2 We went in and found her sick, feverish, with headache, her little son, William (Lunalilo) also quite sick. Many of the chiefs were present. It is their fashion when one of their number is sick. They were assembled from most of the Islands when Kinau was taken sick, and had not returned since her death, which occurred three weeks ago [April 4, I839]. She is not yet buried, but still lies in the stone house. The nation has suffered a great loss in her death, as well as her husband [Kekuanaoa]. He seems to feel it deeply. Found Moses better. He was I Paki was at this time acting Governor of Oahu. 2 Auhea, or Kekauluohi, was appointed kuhina nui by the King, until Victoria succeeded to the office. She was the niece of Kamehameha I. Her son William Lunalilo became King, and reigned from Jan. 8, 1873, to Feb. 3, I874. He founded the Lunalilo Home for aged Hawaiians in Honolulu. pleased to see me, as also were his servants." The date of the next entry is missing. It was probably in the middle or latter part of 1840, the Wilkes Expedition, whose expected arrival is mentioned by Mrs. Cooke, having been in Honolulu in November of that year. It was the United States exploring expedition which circumnavigated the globe in 1838-42, under command of Lieut. Charles Wilkes. While in Honolulu he visited the Royal School, his remarks concerning the pupils having been quoted in the preceding pages. "ROYAL SCHOOL [no date]. "We live a little away from the main road, quite retired from the neighbors. We do not suffer from being lonely, I assure you. A little loneliness, occasionally, would be hailed with no ordinary pleasure. I hope you will be able to understand the above [ground plan of the school] so as to form some idea of our situation. Our house is built in as cheap a manner as possible, owing to the pressure of the times when it was erected. I have some fears that it is too cheap to be substantial, but perhaps it will last as long as it will be needed. You are aware that all the expense was borne by the chiefs and the mission. Thankful made curtains for my bed-room, she said, though she doubted 57 whether I would have any windows. They are marked thus, — I-, windows; II, doors. The children eat with us at the same table, their parents furnishing food for them. We have a constant number of eighteen at our table, and they make the knives and forks rattle not a little. We have had bread on the table but once a day.1 The King sent us one barrel of flour and the Governor [Paki] another. The latter was here at tea this evening, and seemed quite happy. He is going to try to get us a cow as the children are very fond of milk." "July 29. "I have not been so well as formerly for a few weeks past. The anxiety is more than the labor. I am anxious, constantly, about the children. They get into difficulty, or do or say something which is likely to be charged to our account. Or, perhaps the domestics tell of something and give a wrong coloring to it, and the first thing we know the Governor is up, or sends a letter respecting it. Some servant has a strange report and goes with it to the ear of the parents. The children have been walking, perhaps, and stepped over a mark made by a sorcerer, and are in danger of being prayed to death; or, they are imagined to have some disease about 1 Poi was at that time a native substitute for bread, and it is still preferred to bread by many of the old Hawaiians. Flour sent out to the Islands came by way of Cape Horn, as did all other supplies. 58 them and must be doctored by a native physician. With the little acquaintance we have with the chiefs we should never be able to surmount these obstacles were it not for the constant and kind assistance of Dr. Judd in particular, accompanied by the co-operation and influence of the mission in general. The children (in our charge) need a mother's constant watch and care. There is no greater privilege, in their idea, than that of being allowed to come into my sitting-room with me awhile. I do not know how many times a day they rap at my door and request the pleasure of 'calling in,' adding that 'they will be good children,' 'sit still,' 'wipe their feet,' etc.... It is a very unpleasant evening. The wind is whistling round our windows and is sifting in dust by the wholesale. A high trade wind is always unpleasant here. It is impossible to go out with any comfort at such times, and, within, everything has a grimy feeling and aspect. It is different from a snow-storm, for a good cheerful fire and pleasant faces give a delight within, while old Northwest howls without. We had a few Americans to take tea with us last night. Among them were Mr. Olmstead, son of Professor Olmstead, of New Haven, and a Mr. Couthouy, a naturalist, belonging to the squadron, which is expected here before long. The former (Mr. Olmstead) came here not long since in a whaling vessel for his health." 1 The Wilkes Expedition. CHAPTER VIII HOME LIFE AND HOLIDAYS. Mrs. Cooke to Mr. Charles Montague. "March 14, I842. "I suppose you would like to look on my table to see what we have for dinner, so I will tell you as well as I can. For meat we have some fried pork; for vegetables boiled taro and sweet potatoes. Then we have a dessert of boiled rice,-a pretty good dinner we think. Each child has at his place a bowl of poi-an article you are not acquainted with. It is made of boiled kalo, pounded and made into a paste; when fermented it is in a proper state to eat, and is the bread of the Hawaiians. Mr. Cooke and I cannot love it-never eat it." Mention is made at this time of the illness of Bernice, who, ordinarily, appears to have been a healthy and active child. "Our little patient, Bernice,... is still ill-does not sit up much. It makes me additional care. I have to prepare and give her medicine and everything she eats. She 59 60 has but little appetite. We have some fears that she will not recover from the effects of the inflammation. I conversed with her the other day, and she said she should repent as soon as she gets well, for she had been very much afraid she should die. I warned her not to put it off." Knowing the restless nature of their pupils, who had been unaccustomed to restraint of any kind, Mr. and Mrs. Cooke took them about on various expeditions, by way of varying the routine of their school duties. There were frequent rides in the neighborhood of Honolulu and one notable visit to Lahaina. This was the old capital, a delightful spot with every charm of climate and scenery. The only drawback was the difficulties of the voyage on the small, crowded, and not always cleanly vessels of that time. Bernice, having recovered sufficiently, accompanied her teachers on the journey described in the following letter: "LAHAINA, April 23, i842. "We left Honolulu on the i 9th of this month for this place. You perhaps recollect that an attempt was made last year by the King and chiefs to get the children here, but an ill wind drove them back. A schooner was sent again for us and this time we find ourselves landed safely at this place. I wish I could give you an accurate idea of our voyage, but it would be impossible in the short time I can command for writing, and even if the time was not wanting, my descriptive powers are nothing remarkable. I will, therefore, only say a few separate things. The Pahia is the best vessel in the possession of the chiefs. It was made very clean for a native vessel, had a liberal outfit consisting of chickens, hard bread, water-melons, musk-melons, bananas, sugar cane, poi, potatoes, some butter, tea, sugar, lemonade, etc., etc. She had ten sailors and io rowers-a native captain, mate, steward, and cook, some servants for the children, Dr. Judd, Mr. Cooke, and myself with 14 children. We had a pretty brisk wind, and, of course, were all very sick.... Our scholars behaved admirably. Not a word of complaint did I hear. No ill humor, but considerable singing and cheerful conversation. The captain prayed night and morning. I presume it was his custom.... I could write a volume upon the voyage but time will not permit, and I must pass it over. "We arrived an hour and a half before day on Friday, anchored, and in a few minutes were welcomed by the Premier [Auhea], Paki, Kanaina (High Chiefs) who had come out a mile and a half with a double canoe and a boat to carry us on shore. It being 62 yet dark, we asked how they knew we had come; they said they saw us by the light of the moon before we anchored. We gladly took our seats in the canoe, though hardly able to sit upright. On reaching the shore we were welcomed by all the chiefs, the King, and Mr. Richards. "Auhea then sent men with pails to bring water and they brought nearly a hogshead full. We washed, a long table was spread, and breakfast prepared of all the dainties at their command. They had roast pig, fried fish, stewed birds, and many things for which we have no American name. They seated us at the table, two high chiefs standing behind and fanning their guests with their splendid kahilis, another one pouring the tea. The King and Premier sat at one end of the table and Mr. Cooke at the other. I felt rather uneasy but did not know what to say, so I sat quietly and partook of their provisions. We had knives, forks, and plates, silver spoons, castors, teacups, and saucers, everything customary amongst you.... The linen damask table-cloth was white and clean, the water was cool and refreshing.... "Auhea's house stood close by the sea. It was built of stone, two stories high. They lived upstairs in a large room that opened on a broad piazza. Here we had a full view of the sea, the ships in the harbor, and the white surf as it rolled over the reefs toward the house. The island of Lanai rose in the 63 distance, variegating the scenery. Beautiful kou trees shaded the house and many people collected on all sides to gaze at the young princes." "Tuesday, 26th. "After breakfast we were conducted to a house that had been expressly fitted up for our use. It was a large stone house finished off as houses usually are in America, plastered and painted. There are six rooms-three above and the same below. The floors are all matted, and there are mosquito nets, table furniture, tables, chairs, cooking stove and apparatus. I went out to the cook-house and found fish frying and vegetables cooking for dinner. Everything was prepared, or preparing for us. It was pleasant to be thus kindly received by the parents of our pupils, but more expense was incurred than we wished, as our stay will probably be short. We came without any flour, it being a scarce article in Honolulu, but the Premier has purchased us a barrel for $16 of a ship now in port, tea, with coffee, melons, bananas, cucumbers, squashes, taro, pigs, fish, sugar, etc. It was rather more than I could endure." The visit was diversified by several incidents. A little child of Mrs. Cooke met with a serious accident. On the 25th a great 64 temperance meeting was held at which the King and all the chiefs publicly signed the pledge, concerning which Mrs. Cooke said: "It is a matter of great rejoicing, though all rejoice with trembling." On the night of April 25th, there was a terrible storm, with incessant lightning, many native houses being swept away, and the cellar of the house occupied by Mr. and Mrs. Cooke and their pupils being filled with water. As a result of this she writes: "We lost one barrel of hard bread given us by the Governor when we came away. The water came in all around, and it dripped in all parts of the room. To-day it has been rainy, the children have made me almost crazy, and the red mud has been carried from cellar to garret." On the 5th of May the children accompanied Mr. Cooke to Wailuku, a station fifteen miles from Lahaina. "They started early-about daylight," the diary tells us, "in company with the King, who goes to escort them with four boats. He is to go within several miles of the station and then return. The children take horses when the King leaves them and go by land the remainder of the way." KAWAIAHAO CHURCH IN 1908. 65 Mrs. Cooke stayed behind to secure a little rest, of which she must have been sadly in need, and took the opportunity to visit friends in Lahainaluna.1 The visit to Wailuku ended happily and on May I3th she writes: "Mr. Cooke and the children returned on the 7th. They had beautiful weather and a delightful time. The children exhausted all their English over and over again in trying to tell me of the things they had seen and heard.... Last night I had the King and Chiefs here to tea. The day previous was spent in baking and preparing for them. I found it difficult to do so on many accounts.... When I came from home I brought just as few things as I could get along with. But after considerable contrivance I succeeded in getting an excellent supper. The chiefs always expect cake-and nice cake, too. I had bread and butter, cup cake, cookies, fried cakes, sponge cake, crackers, cheese, tea, and coffee. I used forty eggs in my cookies. And the board was swept! There were thirty-five of us, in all, counting our family. Now I must express it in plain language that the expense of this entertainLahainaluna was the seat of a flourishing academy presided over at that time by Rev. E. W. Clark. In connection with it was a publishing house, in which many books relating to Island affairs were printed, with text-books and translations in the Hawaiian language used in the schools. 5 66 ment was borne by the chiefs and not by the mission.... We think it has a good effect upon the chiefs thus to meet and spend an occasional evening with their children in a social way." An interesting letter survives giving a brief account of the visit from the pupils' standpoint. It was written by Prince Lot, afterwards Kamehameha V., who was then twelve years of age. It was addressed to Mr. Gilman, and, considering the youth of the writer, the short time that had elapsed since he had learned English, it is rather remarkable. The letter is as follows: "LAHAINA, May 4, 1842. "MR. GILMAN. " DEAR SIR: Moses and I received your letter to us on the Sabbath day. He is now writing to Newton and I will write a few lines to you. Mr. Cooke and six boys and three girls are going to Wailuku to-morrow. A part of the way we shall go on the water, and a part of the way we shall go by land on the horseback. Our servants will take our horses over the mountain to Maalaea Bay. From that place we shall ride on horseback. We have been to sail several times since we came here. We have also played very much. We wish to 67 stay here a long time, but our teachers think we may return next week. " Give my love to Newton "Your friend, "LOT KAMEHAMEHA." Upon their safe return to Honolulu Mrs. Cooke wrote: "May 23d [1842]. "I find myself in Honolulu again, in my old home. It never looked so pleasant before, but it brings redoubled cares. General meeting has commenced and the children need more than usual straightening, having suffered somewhat from their visit in not knowing what use to make of the kind attentions bestowed on them. What is more, I have a new pupil and boarder-a child of three years —I5 children,-four under four years. Oh, for patience, firmness, forbearance, and skill in teaching!" CHAPTER IX FURTHER ACCOUNTS OF THE SCHOOL. THE school occasionally adjourned to the King's house in Nuuanu Valley, above Luakaha, for a change which was greatly enjoyed by both teachers and pupils. In the following extract from a letter to Miss Montague, an account is given of one of these pleasant migrations: "November 7, I842. "I am in the country, as we say. This valley is so elevated as to be quite cool and comfortable. On the east, south, and north are high mountains; to the west we have a fine view of Honolulu, the harbor, ships, and the sea'the open sea'-which extends as far as the eye can reach. Were I in a mood for description I would try to give you some idea of the loveliness of the landscape, but I must leave that to your imagination, whose fertility, I doubt not, will fill up the outline I have given you and make it somewhere as nearly beautiful as it is in reality. "I am taking care of the children while Mr. 68 69 Cooke is having the house [the school in Honolulu] painted and whitewashed. We live very comfortably, the children in a grass house belonging to the Governor and I in a house belonging to the mission situated some distance from them-one-quarter of a mile, perhaps. The house is built of adobes and thatched with grass, has a veranda all round it. It is plastered with clay and sand, and whitewashed inside and out. It has four rooms and a cook-house, so that we are very comfortable as to room. I have all the cooking done here and carried-part of the foodover to the children.... The children come over here to school twice a day and when they have gone back I have it quiet around me and feel as if I could rest. Oh, what a privilege to be still for a few minutes; a blessing I seldom enjoy at home, except in the night. The cool air is exceedingly refreshing. We rode out this morning before sunrise-took the road leading up the valley. The air seemed cold-absolutely cold! You can have no idea of the luxury of cold air. The view was enchanting, beyond my feeble power of description. It had been five years since I had been so far from home-[a distance of six miles]-I mean by land." The pupils of the Royal School participated in many of the important ceremonials of their times. Among them was the Restoration of the Hawaiian flag, by Admiral 70 Thomas; July 31, 1843, after the enforced cession effected by Lord Paulet, the exercises being held in Thomas Square, followed by solemn thanksgiving services in Kawaiahao church. The day was regularly celebrated thereafter as Restoration Day. The festivities on the anniversary in i847 are still recalled by many old residents of Honolulu. The King, Kamehameha III., gave a great luau on his estate in Nuuanu Valley to which he drove in his state carriage-a vehicle which he seldom used-drawn by four horses. Hundreds of men and women rode to the scene of the feast on horseback, Hawaiians from all the islands of the group being present. The young chiefs were then well-grown lads. An elaborate luau was served the natives out of doors under the trees, roast pigs, fish, fowls, poi, and the usual accompaniments being furnished in abundance. For the foreigners, the consular representatives, or commissioners, members of the cabinet, judges of the Supreme Court, and others favored with invitations, a dinner suited to their taste was prepared, the guests seated at table in the King's stone house, every delicacy that could be procured being set before them. An exhibition of the old methods of strangling, 7I bone-breaking and spear-throwing followed the feast-a mimicry, of course, of what had once been grim reality. John Ii, the court chaplain, especially distinguished himself in handling the spear, although it is probable that it had never been used in actual warfare within his memory. He threw with great precision and warded off as many as five of the weapons at once. All this was witnessed by the young chiefs with keen interest. The morning was fine, but later the festivities were interrupted by heavy rain, which, however, was not of long continuance, and which interfered very little with the enjoyment of the natives. At the close of the year following, Mrs. Cooke's diary has this interesting entry, in which she alludes to her favorite pupil by her Hawaiian name: "Dec. I9, I843. "This was Pauahi's birthday. In the evening Mr. Southy, of the English man-of-war 'Champion' brought her a present of a music box. Dr. Graham also called, and Dr. Rooke, Mr. Basagon (?), a Chilian officer, and Miss Goodale, so we had quite a partyself invited. They played various games with the children. We brought out cakes, raisins, nuts, and lemonade, after which [there 72 came] a hard rap at the front door, and a serenade from a band of musicians-vocal, entirely-roused us all to our feet. The door was opened and an elegant fruit cake made its appearance, the frosting beautifully ornamented with colors and Pauahi's name in the centre. "The music was in the German language and was exceedingly fine. It was from some German sailors who were directed here, I suppose, by Dr. Graham, who also sent the cake, although he seemed very ignorant. After the musicians had sung a long time we invited them in and gave them refreshments. They could talk a little English. They had exceedingly fine voices." "December 25. "The 'Champion' has gone to the Coast. The English celebrate Christmas. A Christmas cake came in last night but who is the donor we do not know." "Jan. 5 [I844]. "The Captain of the French ship called and invited teachers and pupils on board the ship. Mr. Cooke and the children went." Mrs. Cooke remained at home, explaining that she never accepted such invitations for herself, although, under proper circumstances, and at reasonable hours, she did not 73 refuse them for the children, to whom they gave great pleasure, receiving, as they did, many attentions and little gifts from the officers. They in turn found the children very attractive and interesting-a company of little native princes and princesseswho were never allowed by their people to forget their rank, their present and future importance. The year following, the school suffered from a visitation of fever. The difficulties of caring for the children when they were ill have been graphically described in the following letter. The " tabu yard" was a part of the premises which Mrs. Cooke reserved exclusively as a playground for her own children, where they could play apart from the pupils, under her vigilant eye. To this "tabu yard" it is quite probable that Bernice alone had free access, as she was, as has been said, constantly with her teacher and the family. "May 9, 1844. "At present I have a family of twenty-twothree (3) of them are sick with the fever-a kind of mild typhus,-two of a mild kind, one quite sick. It is now the thirteenth day with two of them, but the crisis has not come. 74 " William [Lunalilo] was taken first. After eleven days he was better and recovered so far as to get out of doors and walk about but his father [Kanaina] thought the diet too strict and provided him secretly with some fritters, brought on a relapse, and he has been delirious for a week past; is reduced very low. We are in suspense respecting him, but the doctor has not given up hope. He thinks him a little better, but we cannot see it. His mother, the premier [Kekauluohi, or Auhea] has been sent for [from Lahaina] and arrived two days ago. The other two patients [Lot and Jane] are comfortably sick." "May 15 [1844]. "Our sick are still sick-very sick, though we hope there is a little improvement. William's father and mother being added to our family adds very much to my cares and troubles. They fill my children's yard with natives, etc. They are very much afraid to do anything for the child themselves, and yet they want everything to be done. They do not consider that we have seventeen children to look after, board, teach, etc. But I ought not to complain. They manifest great confidence in us and agree readily to any proposition respecting the child. They came in to say that they had concluded to build a hale [house] in our yard. My heart sank within me to think of their staying so long, but I told 75 them to make themselves at home and do as they liked." Some of the difficulties thrown in the way of the little patient's recovery may be gathered from this description of his room, which had been furnished in keeping with his parents' ideas of what was due his rank. 'It would amuse you to go to his room and see how his bed is dressed. It generally has a new covering every time I go out there. He is on a bedstead; his bed is a mattress; over this is a kind of comfortable stuffed and quilted, then either a large satin or velvet spread; on this a large piece of satin, or silk, doubled four or six times. On this lies the precious sick boy with a pillow covered with some rich silk. Over him is a spread of costly silk, or damask, while around him sit two or three servants with splendid fly brushes [kahilis] waving them over the bed though seldom a fly makes his appearance in the room. Around the sides of the apartment and on the curtains of the bed are hung beautiful evergreens, and the floor is covered with a fine native mat." "May I8. "The Premier has this day built a house in our tabu yard for her accommodation. It is 76 covered with mats. She has put furniture into it and it looks quite comfortable." In spite of all the obstacles thrown in the way of such a happy result, the young prince gradually recovered, and the occupants of the "tabu yard" returned to their homes. CHAPTER X A TRIP TO THE VOLCANO. Mr. Amos Cooke to Mr. Charles Montague. "HONOLULU, December 25th, 1846. "As 'merry a Christmas' to you as we have had. A week ago I sealed my long letter to go pr. 'Charles,' but she has not yet sailed. As it is the last opportunity we shall have this season to send by Cape Horn I embrace it to send you a succinct account of our jaunt, which I have had copied by Miss Bernice and Master Alexander from my letter to Rev. A. Andrews, D.D." The letter is as follows: "On Tuesday the 23d of June last, Mr. Douglass, John Ii, our native assistant, and I, accompanied by eleven of our scholars (males and females) embarked on board the 'Kamehameha III ', a new schooner recently purchased by Government, for a voyage of a few weeks to the Windward islands. The King furnished us with a vessel, leaving us to go where we pleased, and be gone as long as we pleased. 77 Dr. and Mrs. Rooke accompanied us, also Rev. C. B. Andrews of Molokai, and Captain Newell. Our whole number, including natives, was thirty-four. We sailed first for Hilo, stopping at Lahaina one day, to wait for Mr. Andrews to come from Molokai. We reached Hilo on the evening of the sixth day. During that day, which was Sunday, we had meetings on board, conducted by John Ii. On our arrival the young ladies were invited to stay at Rev. Mr. Coan's and the young men at Mr. Pitman's. Messrs. Douglass and Andrews staid at Rev. Mr. Lyman's. There we met with the Rev. C. S. Lyman who was visiting the island of Hawaii. " Monday was spent in making preparations for visiting the volcano on the following day. We reached the volcano Wednesday afternoon. We came upon it somewhat suddenly and were disappointed at its situation and its apparent want of sublimity. The afternoon was spent in visiting the sulphur banks and in gathering berries, etc. "The next morning (Thursday) early, we descended into the crater, being accompanied by the Rev. Mr. Coan who acted as our guide, and Rev. C. S. Lyman. They, with their attendants, made our number about forty. This, thought I, would be a great sacrifice to Pele (volcano) if we all should be swallowed up in its agitated bowels. The descent is very steep and is thought to be about 700 feet. After gathering some specimens of lava near 79 the foot of the descent we started to go round on the Black Ledge to the farther end where it was comparatively in feeble action. "Mr. Coan remarked 'that he never saw it appear so tame.' He further said that the entire centre of the volcano had risen up several hundred feet, for it, with the boiling lake, was now on a level with the Black Ledge. We passed entirely around and returned on the opposite or south side. Our scholars, as well as ourselves, had read of Vesuvius, Mount Hecla, and other volcanoes, but now for the first time they saw such fearful demonstrations of the fear of Him who 'toucheth the hills and they smoke.' All our anticipations were now more than realized. I trust our scholars were impressed with the fact, that He who had touched this hill had power to build a dismal abode for His incorrigible enemies. A description of this vast cauldron I will not attempt to give. We returned late in the afternoon to the top of the crater, amply rewarded for our tedious day's walk. " The distance walked must have been more than ten miles. That night, as well as on the other nights during our absence, we explained the truth of the Scriptures that 'the sleep of a laboring man is sweet.' We started early on Friday morning to return, stopping again at the half-way house over night, and reached Hilo on Saturday at three o'clock P.M. "The next day the Lord's house was filled 80 to overflowing with a congregation, both solemn and attentive. At noon we visited the Sabbath-school and were much pleased with the attention and number of its scholars. "In the afternoon the sacrament of the Lord's Supper was administered by the Pastor to his numerous flock. Here, for the first time, did we see water substituted for wine in this holy ordinance. Monday we visited places of interest in the neighborhood of Waiakea or Hilo, among which was the Rainbow falls. We visited also the interesting Boys' Boarding School, under the charge of Rev. D. D. Lyman.... We saw the scholars in their school, in their rooms, and at their work in the field. We heartily wished that the time might be hastened when all the youth of this people should enjoy such privileges. That evening we attended the monthly concert of prayer at the house of Mr. Lyman. Tuesday we left Byron's Bay, and sailed round to Kau. The following day, at noon, we moored our schooner to the rocks at the southern extremity of Hawaii. Nine of us rode to the station of Rev. Mr. Paris at Waiohinu, and spent one night. He and his family were not at home; but we saw pleasing evidence, both from his dwelling and meeting-house, as well as from the road, that some one had lived there, who had not been idle. There we met our fellow-traveller, Rev. C. B. Andrews, who had left us at the volcano to come over to Waiohinu to spend the pre 8i ceding Sabbath. Thursday morning we returned to the vessel and about noon sailed for Kealakekua. Reaching there late in the evening Mr. Andrews and I went ashore." Mr. Cooke adds to the careful copy a line indicating the occupation of Bernice, who at all times and in countless ways, endeavored to lighten the duties of her teachers. He says: "Miss Jane and Bernice made a Christmas cake yesterday. The Queen called on us to-day." The children had begun reading Miss Strickland's Queens of England and that evening was to be devoted to Matilda of Scotland, wife of Henry I. The following year appears to have been uneventful, until the beginning of autumn when the marriage of Jane Loeau occurred. She was the daughter of Kalaniulumoku and Liliha, was then nineteen years of age, and had been one of the first pupils, the close companion and intimate friend of Bernice. Notwithstanding the auspicious beginning the marriage proved unhappy. Jane left Honolulu and removed to Lahaina, and the intimacy between herself and Mrs. Bishop was never renewed. The other pupils in the 6 82 school, especially Bernice, as the letter shows, were busy with their accustomed tasks, making excellent progress, contented and happy. From Mr. Amos Cooke to Miss Montague "HONOLULU, OAHU, S. Is., September 18, I847. "The night we received your package we had a party and could not read the letters till the next morning. Since then we have had a wedding party. Jane Loeau (the bosom friend of Bernice) was married on the second inst. to a Mr. John R. Jasper. We made quite a party, and had seventy-five present, consisting of the King and Queen, chiefs, privy council, ministers of state, consuls, missionaries, and other foreigners. That very evening we accompanied them to their house, and we accompanied them with lanterns. We were glad to show the remaining scholars what we would do for them if they would continue to live with us and do well. Our family now numbers only thirteen scholars.... For six months we have had no assistant and our hands have been filled to overflowing.... It seems as if I never wanted to read so much as now. J-[Mrs. Cooke] succeeds in getting some of the scholars to read to her about two hours daily, especially Bernice who has become a very good reader. She is now reading the history of Egypt that you sent me, and 83 Prescott's 'Ferdinand and Isabella.'. Bernice always takes a deep interest in our little ones, and as she is so much what you once were, we encourage them to call her 'Aunt Fanny.' Jane and Bernice were and are as much attached to each other as sisters could well be. We laugh at the latter (Bernice) and say that she must be married next. We greatly hope that Lot will so conduct himself, as to render himself worthy of her. If not, we think she may marry Alexander, who is two years younger than she. The latter is much the brighter of the two boys. These three are in my first class and are studying Philosophy, etc. Next term they will study Thompson's Legendre, Comstock's Chemistry, and perhaps resume (Bailey's) Algebra." CHAPTER XI FINAL SCHOOL-DAYS. From Mr. Gilman's Diary. "Sept. - 1844. "A beautiful evening ride brought me to the most pleasant and attractive home of Mr. and Mrs. Cooke. The living picture of the interior was even more pleasing than the beautiful landscape with the radiance of a full moon. Gathered around the large centre table were the children pursuing their evening studies, or engaged in their work. Mrs. Cooke acted very charmingly the mother to the group, giving attention to their various needs, whether it was a word explanatory about the lessons to the boys, or a suggestion for thread and needle to the girls, and occasionally stooping to the cradle by her side that indicated the real motherhood. The music on the table was a testimonial of the harmony of the home." The following is a letter written at Mrs. Cooke's request to her sister, Miss Montague, by Bernice, who was then fifteen years of age. 84 She had conceived a warm admiration for Miss Montague through her correspondence with Mrs. Cooke, parts of which Bernice was allowed to read. The handwriting is remarkably elegant and clear-rather more legible than that which she afterwards acquired. "HONOLULU, Nov. 2nd, I847. "DEAR MISS MONTAGUE: " There is a ship to sail for the United States to-morrow, and your sister, Mrs. Cooke, has given me permission to write to you, being unable to do so herself, owing to cares, etc. It is with great pleasure that I avail myself of this opportunity to commence a correspondence with you. Your sister has so frequent and full letters that I feel confident that I shall have an answer-quite as much so as the milkmaid did of her green dress. "I hardly know how to write to you, but I suppose that if I write anything about Mrs. Cooke and her family it will not come amiss. Mr. Cooke has been confined to his room with an abscess on his knee accompanied with fever and headache so that he has not been able to teach school as usual. He is better now, but not entirely recovered. He has just come in limping from school, is reclining on the sofa near me. He looks as if he had been sick for a fortnight. Boils have been common for the last few months and most 86 everybody had them. Mrs. Cooke is about starting for Punahou with Alexander for a beau. We have a very gentle horse and sometimes he comes into the court, and did we not shut the doors he would enter into some of our rooms. On one occasion he passed through the sitting room into the yard occupied by our teacher. " Mary Annis is about a year old and she can walk alone. She is a sweet baby-in my opinion, she is the sweetest in the world. She begins to talk very little, she can say 'papa and mama,' and she is so intelligentonce in a while she plays 'Hide and seek' very pretty with me. I know you would give a good deal just to give her a kiss. Joseph is going to school to Punahou.... Your sister's health is very good but her eyes trouble her some. She hardly ever reads two pages without being obliged to stop. The barrel from Mrs. Whitney from Pittsfield has come, but your sister has not got her things. She expects them yet. Martha is standing by me and asking me to whom I am writing. I told her to Aunt Fanny. 'Well,' she says, 'give my love to her and to grandma and uncle Charles and Aunt Harriet' and so she counts them all. She has a very indefinite idea of America. She 1 Afterwards Mrs. Charles Turner, known in the musical world as Miss Annis Montagu, whose debut in opera in New York is described in one of Mrs. Bishop's letters which has been quoted. 87 wants to know what America is. She has been inquiring of her mother to-day 'how many Merikas there are?' Her mother told her two-North and South. She wished to know if 'our Merika, and Mrs. Dibble's Merika was all!' " At this point Mrs. Cooke began writing and finished the letter. There is a striking similarity in the handwriting of the teacher and pupil. "Miss Bernice," she explains, "has written this letter to you at my request. She has written in haste-the bell has rung and she has gone to school so I close it and send it on as the vessel will sail soon. " She is a most lovely girl-lovely in feature, form, and disposition. Extremely prudent, seldom giving cause for any reproof. She reads to me every day an hour. She is now reading 'Coelebs in Search of a Wife.' She has just finished the History of Egyptis very fond of reading, likes history and is very well versed in it for a girl of her age-she is fifteen-plays and sings well, paints prettily, works worsted, makes her own dresses, is now studying chemistry and Euclid. I generally allow her to peruse a part of your letters which she considers a great privilege. "I wish you could know her, you would love her. She is very agreeable in her manners. Pray for her, dear Fanny, that 88 so many gifts may be consecrated to God and the nation. " In the greatest haste-or I would fill this sheet. You will write to Bernice. I know she will value a letter from you highly. Oh, my sister, shall I never see you again? "Farewell, "JULIETTE." Extract from Mr. Gilman's Diary " I848 [no fuller date]. "A most pleasing entertainment was offered by the King in a general invitation to attend a luau at the palace to hear a Scotch bagpiper with his pipes, in tartan clothes, kilts, and stocking legs,-altogether a novelty in Honolulu. The children of the school were, of course, present as members of to court circle and they entered into the spirit of the evening with a zest that showed their enjoyment of the release for awhile from study hours to innocent recreation. Not that they were deprived of this at the school home, where all was done consistent with the Christian principles of the servants of the Board of Missions. Mr. and Mrs. Cooke were ever alive to what would help in forming character in those under their charge who were destined to exert such important influence in the future of the Island Kingdom." Mrs. J. M. Atherton, a daughter of Mrs. 89 Cooke, who is still living in Honolulu, has furnished some further reminiscences of Bernice's sojourn there. She says that it was customary for Mr. and Mrs. Cooke to take the pupils of the school to a place up Nuuanu Valley, near Luakaha, for a holiday. The boys occupied one large room of the house there, under Mr. Cooke's supervision, sleeping on mats, while the girls, with Mrs. Cooke, occupied the other. Those were some of their happiest days. On Saturday afternoons the young men from Honolulu would ride up on horseback and spend the evening, which was devoted to singing and games; or the time was spent out under the trees in the moonlight, with conversation or music. The young girls bathed in the stream nearby, afterwards gathering flowers and maile, the fragrant vine still highly prized by the Hawaiians, with which they decorated their hair and throats. In all these pastimes Bernice, now grown to womanhood, took an active and leading part. She was very fond of children, a characteristic which she never lost, and which is shown from time to time in her letters. She was devoted to Mrs. Cooke's son Charles, who is now a prominent business man in Honolulu. She voluntarily 90 took care of him much of the time. When a small child he wore a scarlet dress and she called him "her little red robin." Amongst the young men who began to visit the school was Mr. Charles R. Bishop. He came of good New England stock, inheriting from his ancestry the intelligence, industry, and perseverance that led to his speedy promotion from a clerkship in the U. S. Consulate to the post of Collector General of Customs in Honolulu during the closing years of the reign of Kamehameha III. Mr. Bishop was born in Glenn's Falls, New York, January 25, 1822. He lost his parents when he was a child and he then went to live with his grandfather Reed in Glenn's Falls. Later he moved to Sandy Hill, a village not far from Glenn's Falls. There he was employed as a clerk in the store of a Mr. Dewey and made the acquaintance of William L. Lee when he came home from college during vacation. Mr. Dewey's wife was Mr. Lee's sister, whose former husband was Mr. Bishop's uncle, grandfather of Mr. F. E. Bishop of Honolulu. This early choice of a friend was significant-an indication of the care which he exercised in the selection of his associates throughout his life. 91 Mr. Bishop became dissatisfied with the mercantile business, and with Mr. Lee arranged to go out to Oregon, which was then becoming known as a promising field for emigrants from the Eastern States. The two embarked on the brigantine Henry and after a long and hard voyage of about eight months around Cape Horn, they put in at the port of Honolulu, October 2, I846. Father Damon, the seamen's chaplain, later connected with Oahu College in its beginning, and Mr. Gorham D. Gilman came on board. Then and there began a lasting friendship between them. Mr. Gilman, as Mr. Bishop recalls, knew the chiefs, young and old, and many of the people. He was employed at the time as a clerk in a retail store on the corner of King and Fort streets. He felt a deep and sincere interest in all Hawaiian affairs, which he never lost. He corresponded with Mr. Bishop, and Mrs. Bishop and he were also frank and confidential correspondents to the end of her life, and he was a faithful and obliging friend. The brigantine needed repairs, the season (November) was late for entering the Columbia River, and the residents of Honolulu advised Mr. Lee and Mr. Bishop against 92 continuing their voyage earlier than the following spring, if at all. Thus advised they decided to remain. They made congenial acquaintances, and soon found that their services were in demand on favorable terms in desirable situations, and they were pleased with the climate and the people. Mr. Lee, who had studied law, came highly recommended by eminent American jurists, and soon won the confidence of the government. Later, he was made Chief Justice, a position which he held until his death May 28, I857. To this life-long friend of Mr. Bishop, Dr. Alexander has paid this fitting tribute: "To say that he was the right man in the right place, gives but a faint idea of his eminent services to the country. He organized the courts of justice and so conducted the highest tribunal, that it soon acquired universal confidence and respect, and instead of being a source of weakness became the strongest pillar of the government." Nor were Mr. Bishop's services less distinguished, surviving as they do to this day in great educational institutions and in generous endowments to the benevolent and 93 scientific work which is being carried on in Honolulu in so many important fields. It is remarkable that two such young men, both destined to leave a salutary and lasting impress upon the affairs of the nation, should have arrived in Honolulu together, upon the same vessel. Mr. Bishop ultimately resigned his position as Collector of Customs to form a partnership as a banker with Mr. W. A. Aldrich. The firm of Bishop & Co., thus established, was one of the stablest in the islands, maintaining its reputation through all the various changes that have occurred. It is still in existence, enjoying the confidence which it has held for so many years. In that small community where people become well known to each other, Mr. Bishop, as it has been shown, was recognized, from the first, as a young man of integrity and of ability. It is not to be wondered at, therefore, that both Mr. and Mrs. Cooke regarded his marked interest in Bernice with great satisfaction. CHAPTER XII THE MARRIAGE OF BERNICE. IN the midst of increasing political difficulties, the town continued to improve. Many luxuries were introduced into the homes; horses and carriages were coming into use, and relations with the outside world were extended by the increasing number of vessels and distinguished travellers that visited the islands. Upon this point Mr. Cooke wrote in I850: "Honolulu never looked so green and pleasant as now, and the [number of] trees and their variety has increased very rapidly. Our large plain of land is now covered with vegetation and is laid out into lots." The late Dr. Henry M. Lyman has also given some account of the changes that had taken place in Honolulu upon his return from Hilo in 1848. A good many of its substantial citizens had left the islands for the recently discovered gold fields in California. The places thus left vacant were filled by new 94 95 arrivals, who, as soon as they proved themselves worthy, were cordially welcomed. "Prominent among the newcomers," Dr. Lyman writes, "were two young men, who...had decided to cast in their lot with the Hawaiians. One of them, Charles R. Bishop, was now Collector of Customs at the port of Honolulu,-a sober, discreet young gentleman who subsequently married a beautiful native princess, became very wealthy and, in his later years, devoted large sums of money to the promotion of education and civilization among the islanders. The other was William L. Lee, a talented lawyer.... Arrived in Honolulu these young men were invited to enter the government service, one as the Collector of the Port, the other as Chief Justice of the Supreme Court." Amongst others, Mr. Bishop had been received at the Royal School, participating in the rides and other recreations permitted under the friendly oversight of the teachers. The place which he held in the regard of the household in general, and in that of the young princess especially, is pleasantly indicated in the following letter from Mr. Amos Cooke to his sister-in-law Miss Montague. 1 Hawaiian Yesterdays, by Dr. Henry M. Lyman, chap. xiii. p. 187. 96 "HONOLULU, OAHU, S. Is., Feb. 25, 1850. "Saturday night I wrote a hasty line to C-but as it did not get off yesterday I have thought I would fill another sheet to you.... Juliette' and Miss Bernice are engaged in sewing and Mr. Bishop is reading to them from the 'Life of Hannah More.' Probably you are aware that Miss Bernice has an admirer who calls every evening and probably will till they have a home of their own. He is a fine young man, and is Collector General of Customs. We much prefer she should take up with such a man as he, than with either of the young princes now absent with Dr. Judd in Europe." (Later-no date). "Mr. B — has called again and commenced his reading, but alas! it is broken in upon. I hear the voice of Mr. H —, formerly editor of the Polynesian.... For all who call, Bernice is obliged to grind out a few tunes on the AEolian attachment, as an accompaniment to her singing. It is getting to be an old story, especially to her, except when Mr. B — is present. It is very apparent that her thoughts and affections are centering on him, and well they may, for he is in every way worthy of her heart and hand. I hope and pray that it may turn out to be a match made in Heaven, and that Heaven's blessing 1 Mrs. Joseph Atherton of Honolulu. 97 may. ever attend them, both in this world and in that which is to come." At this point Mr. Cooke refers to the marriage of Jane which had proved a great disappointment to all her friends. A change had been made in the management of the school, and Mr. and Mrs. Cooke were in expectation of moving into a house provided for them by the mission, then occupied by Mr. E. O. Hall. Upon this subject Mr. Cooke wrote: "The Mission voted at the last meeting that we might receive whatever might be paid for the rent of Mr. Hall's house, provided we were willing to forego the pleasure of removing for a season. We disliked to have our scholars scattered so suddenly, and consented to continue to reside with them a part of another year. We continue now, principally, for Bernice's sake. She is very anxious to have us remain till she can have a home of her own, and we have brought her along so far that we cannot bear to leave her until she is lodged in [other] hands." Paki and Konia had set their hearts upon the marriage of the Princess Bernice to one or the other of the young Princes, her schoolmates, Alexander Liholiho, afterwards Kame7 98 hameha IV., or to Prince Lot, his successor, who has passed into history as Kamehameha V. This, at first, had also been anticipated by her teachers, as will be recalled. There is every reason to believe that an actual offer was made by both Princes, Alexander and Lot, which Bernice declined. The ambition of the parents was natural. The young Princess had been endowed by nature with every trait that would have eminently fitted her for the exalted position which it was hoped and believed she might be induced to accept; great prudence, a highly cultivated mind, with irresistible grace and charm that made a lasting impression upon all who met her, even for a short time. But she, herself, decided otherwise. She made her own choice, uninfluenced,-a decision that was abundantly justified throughout her entire after life. The two Princes, who are known to have had a strong affection for Bernice, were taken to England by way of the United States, on a diplomatic mission, by Dr. Judd, in I849, the result of which was the negotiation of a new and liberal treaty with Great Britain, concluded July Io, I851. They also spent ten weeks in Paris, seeing much of the official life of that brilliant capital, after 99 which they returned to England. There, Dr. Alexander states, "the young princes were treated with the utmost hospitality and courtesy, and enjoyed glimpses of the aristocratic society of London." He adds, "the princes were much improved by their foreign tour and made a very favorable impression abroad." In the meantime, Paki began to suspect his daughter's growing attachment for Mr. Bishop, rumors of his frequent visits to the Royal School having reached him. For some reason he also surmised that the Rev. Richard Armstrong, 2 then holding the important position of Minister of Public Instruction, was also interested in the matter. Mr. Armstrong was high in favor with the King-Kamehameha III.-and held the position mentioned for many years, writing and translating into the Hawaiian language many text-books used in the native schools. Paki endeavored to secure from him a promise that, in case Bernice persisted in marrying 1 Brief History of the Hawaiian People, by W. D. Alexander, chap. xxxii., pp. 269-70. 2 Rev. Richard Armstrong was the father of General S. C. Armstrong, a distinguished soldier in the Civil War, founder of Hampton Institute, at Hampton, Va.the pioneer institution for the education of negroes of both sexes-especially in skilled manual training. I00 Mr. Bishop, he would not perform the ceremony. Mr. Armstrong, honestly believing, through his knowledge of their character, that such a marriage must result in the happiness and prosperity of both husband and wife, declined to bind himself by any promise whatsoever. This frankness and fearlessness no one could have respected more than Paki, and the intimations of a future reckoning went no further. Bernice was now eighteen and Mr. Bishop twenty-eight years of age. The marriage took place June 4, I850, in the parlor of the Royal School, but few persons being present besides Mr. and Mrs. Cooke, and Mr. and Mrs. Armstrong. Mrs. PrattElizabeth Kekaniau-was one of the few witnesses, who is still living in Honolulu, and Mrs. Bush, also a resident of the same place, recall the beauty of the young bride, who wore a gown of white muslin with a wreath of jasmine. MRS. BISHOP ABOUT 1854. CHAPTER XIII SUBSEQUENT EVENTS. IMMEDIATELY after their marriage, Mr. and Mrs. Bishop spent several weeks on Kauai, then returned to Honolulu and lived for some months with the family of Judge Andrews in Nuuanu Valley. A small house, meanwhile, was being built for their occupancy on land belonging to Mr. Bishop near the old theatre, the site of which is now occupied by the Masonic Temple. While occupying this house, they boarded with Mr. John Ladd, whose residence stood on the site now occupied by the Hawaiian Hotel. The two Princes returned from Europe with Dr. Judd, September 9, I850, three months after Mrs. Bishop's marriage. Prince Alexander, Kamehameha IV., six years later married Emma Rooke, a granddaughter of John Young, who was adopted by Dr. Rooke, an English physician of much ability and culture,-her uncle by marriage. She, also, Io0 102 was a pupil in the Royal School. Kamehameha IV. was a man of great natural gifts, of princely bearing, of courtly manners, and decided talent. He died at the early age of twenty-nine, having reigned but nine years. Prince Lot, Kamehameha V., never married. He also reigned but nine years, dying of dropsy at the age of forty-three. The chief events of his reign were the promulgation of a new constitution in 1864, which remained in force for twenty-three years, the abolition of the office of Kuhina nui, the segregation of lepers, and the institution of a Board of Education for the kingdom. Paki remained obdurate for some little time after Mrs. Bishop's marriage, but his deep natural affection for her at length prevailed. Mrs. Rice has related a very interesting incident which was the beginning of a reconciliation. He had built the fine residence "Haleakala," intended for his daughter, afterwards known as the Arlington Hotel, and which, during the political troubles of I893, was occupied by the U. S. Marines, by whom it was called "Camp Boston." This residence was well furnished and surrounded by handsome gardens, the place, in all its appointments, meeting the requirements of I03 its owner as the fitting home of a chief of high rank, and which was much improved later by Mr. Bishop. Paki at length, unable to endure the separation any longer, went to the small house in Alakea Street, and the breach between the father and daughter was healed. Mrs. Rice relates that he looked about the rooms very sadly, tastefully furnished though they were and kept with the exquisite orderliness which characterized the young wife's surroundings under all circumstances. "Had you remained with me," he said, "I would have given you a fine, large house." He went away and sent her, as a gift, a great mirror for which it was difficult to find a place in the modest rooms. It was finally fitted with some difficulty into a corner. While Paki was a man ordinarily holding firmly to his opinions and prejudices he had learned enough of Mr. Bishop's tastes and character to realize how fully in sympathy were the young wife and husband. This, with the respect and confidence which Mr. Bishop commanded amongst the best element in the Islands, was an assurance that the happiness of his daughter was in safe keeping. I04 That the outcome of her marriage should have resulted in enduring and far-reaching good for the Hawaiian people,-far greater than she could ever have achieved even as the consort of the King,-neither Paki nor Konia could have anticipated, great as was their intelligence. As time passed and the moral worth of Mr. Bishop was still more fully realized, there were no further regrets on the part of either parent; the reconciliation was complete and lasting. In the course of time Mr. and Mrs. Bishop were induced to take up their abode at "Haleakala," which, with other property, became hers as an inheritance from Paki. This charming home, which immediately became the centre of all that was best, most cultivated, and refined in Hawaiian social life, has been graphically described by a cousin of Mr. Bishop, Mrs. Allen, who arrived in Honolulu in I864 from California, on a visit. It may be said that a warm and enduring friendship was formed at that time between the two, which continued unbroken during the lifetime of Mrs. Bishop. Of " Haleakala," as the house was called, and its picturesque life Mrs. Allen wrote: "At that time her home was the most HA A EK ALA. 105 beautiful in Honolulu, the house large and pleasant, the grounds full of beautiful trees, shrubs, and vines and so well cared-for. I shall never forget my first night's rest in the home, and the satisfaction of waking in such pleasant surroundings. There were peculiar noises that I could not account for, but listened for awhile, trying to make them out, until my curiosity was thoroughly aroused and I stepped out on the veranda to find that one was the cooing of the ring-dove, the other the scratching on the black sand by a number of old native women, who were sweeping the walks with brooms made from the stems of the cocoanut leaves. At that time there were at each end of the premises large yards with long low buildings on two sides, which were divided into rooms and occupied by numerous families attached to her as their chiefess to whom they looked for counsel in all their affairs-joys and sorrows. I was always interested to see her out under a large tamarind tree1 surrounded by her people, many of whom had come in from the country to advise with her. She would sit for hours with the utmost patience listening to them." Soon after her arrival Mrs. Allen accompanied Mr. and Mrs. Bishop on a trip to the I The tamarind tree was that planted on the day of her birth. Io6 volcano which she has also described most interestingly as follows: "Almost immediately after I arrived, preparations were begun for the trip, and in a week or two we left on the old steamer Kilauea. They had aranged to take with them a man and woman, but Kalunal was so grieved that he was to be left at home that he really shed tears, and was finally allowed to go; a happy thing for us all, for he was very useful and most amusing with his droll ways. It was at such times that Mrs. Bishop showed her thoughtfulness in not taking so many people with her on her excursions around the islands as to be a burden to the people where she stopped, though they seemed delighted to serve her. "Our voyage, lying seasick on the deck, with only a very thin mattress for a bed, will never be forgotten. We landed at Kawaihae, where we took horses for Mr. Parker's place at Mana. It was my second ride on horseback and twenty miles was a pretty long and tiresome one, and I reached there aching in every part of my body,-could just tumble off my horse and get to bed as quickly as possible. The next morning Mrs. Bishop came to my room bringing an old native woman skilful in lomi-lomi to practise on me, but I was so sore that I was not sure if the IKaluna was an old servant employed for many years at the bank by Mr. Bishop. 107 remedy were not worse than the disease at the time, though the result was excellent. We had a most delightful visit at Mr. Parker's (the grandfather of Col. Samuel Parker), who was a venerable man and his home patriarchal. It was a little village of people who lived with him as one family, and all looked to him as their father. At six o'clock every evening a bell rang to call the people together for prayers, a native having charge of the service. It was most interesting and impressive. It pleased me to see how much interested the natives were in Mrs. Bishop, as I imagine they were in all their aliis, but she had not been on that island since she was a child, and they were curious as well as loyal, and she thoroughly enjoyed the life among them. While there we made an excursion to Waipio Valley, and we all enjoyed the wonderful scenery, incidentally attending a Sunday-school celebration; her presence giving additional interest to the occasion. After a few days we went on to Hilo, and Mr. and Mrs. Bishop and her servants occupied the largest grass house I ever saw, which belonged to the Princess Ruth Keelikolani. It was divided into rooms by curtains and was altogether interesting. The people of Hilo, both native and foreign, showed her much attention, making her visit, as well as ours, most delightful. I remember, with much gratitude and pleasure, the hospitality of the fathers and mothers, Lyman, Coan, and 1o8 Wetmore, who have long since passed away. From Hilo we went through Puna, to the volcano, stopping one of the nights on the way where there was a camp of people who were gathering pulu [wool from the tree-fern] for beds. Some speculative person had gone to California advertising it as possessing all sorts of health-giving properties, as well as being durable and repellent to fleas. It was for a time quite an industry but afterwards proved to be unprofitable. There was no Volcano House in those days, only a rough shed for shelter and a platform built upon one side, where, with a pillow and blanket, one could try to sleep. For the use of Mrs. Bishop the natives brought one of those pulu beds, which, with a mosquito net, made her comparatively comfortable. The same served our whole party on another occasion, when we were detained at a native house and had to sleep on the mats together, our heads only being covered with the net. "The volcano was very active and we stayed in the crater one night until ten o'clock, we were so fascinated with its wonderful demonstrations. There was an old broken stove on which we made coffee and picnicked from our box of stores for our meals while there. From the volcano we went across the country to Kealakekua Bay with various experiences on the way. At one place, after a long morning's ride, we stopped Io0 at a nice native house, and as we were all very tired, we threw ourselves on the mats and Mrs. Bishop went to sleep. It was all too new and interesting to me to sleep, so I watched the people as they came, one by one, into the room until it was crowded. Each took a peep at her as they came in and then squatted down on the floor, and talked in a low tone. After a little she woke with a surprised look at the people, who all greeted her with a hearty 'aloha.' " It was a tiresome ride for a haole to Kealakekua Bay and we were glad to see our stopping place in the distance,-a pretty grass house on the beach. Very soon we saw natives, who were evidently on the lookout for us, coming to meet us, and presently there was a most startling shriek and I asked what it was. Mrs. Bishop answered: "'Oh, that is my grandmother wailing.' "' But,' I said, 'I thought they wailed only for the dead.' "She explained that they wailed also for joy, and this was a greeting to her. While there we made an excursion to Cook's monument which was on the opposite side of the bay. We were to go in canoes. We were all standing on the beach, I wondering how we were to get to the canoes, which were some distance out in the water, which was very shallow there, when Mrs. Bishop said to me: IIO "' You will go first,' and a large native man caught me up in his arms and put me in the canoe before I could think what had happened, Mrs. Bishop and the others laughing heartily at the joke and my surprise." HON. C. R. BISHOP. NIt 1j/ c ) CHAPTER XIV HOME LIFE. MRS. BISHOP'S school training, as will be recalled, was not confined to her textbooks. Under Mrs. Cooke's careful instruction she had acquired a thorough knowledge of domestic science, needlework, and cookery. There was no detail of her housekeeping which she did not personally supervise and which did not show evidences of that early training. She cut, fitted, and made all kinds of garments, and in one letter, not included in those selected for publication, she gave an order for fine laces and linen which she wished to have made up under her personal direction, expressing her unflattering opinion of "ready-made clothing," which had just come into vogue. At another time she wanted the pattern of a mantle which she cut and made, being greatly pleased with the entire success of the experiment. She was always suitably and becomingly dressed, having the cultivated taste of a gentlewoman III 112 in such matters. But her economies were also exercised in this direction, rather than at the sacrifice of any of the many beneficiaries to whom she was an ever-present and unfailing providence. A friend who knew her well recalled a characteristic incident. A new gown to which she had given much thought was to be elaborately trimmed with lace. Two pieces were sent for her approval, one being much finer than the other. She compared them carefully, preferring the better piece, as was natural. But she cheerfully put it aside remarking that " while it was very beautiful and she would like to have it, yet she could not conscientiously spend so much upon her dress when money was required for other and more important things." She never lost her regard for her old teachers and their friends. Mrs. Rice during these early housekeeping days was teaching at Punahou,-a long walk across the then dusty and shadeless plain. That was also long before the days of restaurants into which one may drop nowadays for the sustaining cup of coffee. Mrs. Bishop urged Mrs. Rice whenever her errands brought her down-town to come to her house, without any I13 formality, for her luncheon. Often, though she then had a staff of efficient servants, she met her guest at the door, admitting her herself, rather than keep her waiting, for she never lost the ability acquired early in life to do whatever might be required with readiness and courtesy, considering it no loss of dignity. For a short time after she moved to " Haleakala," for her own amusement, she continued to teach a few favorite pupils on the pianoforte,-as she had done during the last years spent at the Royal School. One of those thus favored recalled recently the pleasure as well as benefit she derived from the lessons; Mrs. Bishop's patience and sweetness, and her great natural capabilities as a teacher. "A friend and myself," she said, "always took our lessons on Saturday morning and she then kept us to luncheon. We were always highly gratified at this, and she took as much pains to entertain us as though we had been grown." She had always the faculty of entertaining and endearing herself to children, which may be gathered from what she has written of the family of her teacher. She had none of the arrogance one sometimes sees among 8 II4 Hawaiians of high rank. Her manners were always affable and courteous to the humblest and the greatest, equally. Her love of flowers, almost a passion with the Hawaiians, was gratified in the large, fine gardens of " Haleakala." She had what has been called "a growing hand," and with intelligent and loving care coaxed drooping plants and shrubs into luxuriant leaf and blossom. She took delight in sending gifts of plants and flowers of her own raising to her friends and neighbors. Although she had well-trained gardeners, those who dropped in of mornings informally often found her not only directing them, but working herself, with trowel and pruning shears, in the beds and borders. Her regard for her dependents has been already described by her cousin. It was that of the true alii. She provided for their needs, comforted them in their trials and sorrows. None was too humble to claim her protection. She was regarded as the source from which, by right, all that they required was forthcoming. From her stores, when necessary, were provided clothing for the new-born child, the wedding garments for the bride, and the shroud for the dead. But her benefactions were not confined to mere giving; 115 with this she rendered the service that had to be made at a sacrifice of time and of her personal convenience. She was found often in the homes of the poor where there were sorrow and sickness. She relieved their physical necessities, comforting and encouraging them with her cheerfulness, and the courageousness that inspired them to be content with life, to accept its burdens patiently, and to look hopefully toward the future, both in this life and in that to come. Her pastor, once suddenly called in the night to the home of a poor woman lying at the point of death, found Mrs. Bishop there before him, preparing food that might tempt the failing appetite of the sufferer. But with her readiness to minister to distress, in whatever guise it presented itself, she also loved greatly the bright and attractive things of life. Her house, as has been said, became the centre of all that was best in the social life of the Islands. She made the stranger welcome. The fame of her grace and dignity as a hostess, which was enjoyed by the officers of the war vessels which called at Honolulu, spread far and wide. She was known to the officers of the American, British, and German navies, men who, through the exigencies of their profession, become sticklers for etiquette, and rigid critics of all that pertains to the art of entertaining. For some years she adhered to many picturesque Hawaiian customs, which added, in the eyes of the stranger, to the charm and novelty of her entertainments. Mrs. Weaver, the daughter of Rev. R. Armstrong, then a young girl, was once invited to a dinner which she gave in honor of Horace Mann, a son of the eminent American educator, who spent a year studying the flora and fauna of the Islands, and Dr. W. T. Brigham, now Director of the Bernice Pauahi Museum in Honolulu. Many Hawaiian dishes, especially the delicious fish from her own ponds, were served. There were leis of fragrant flowers and maile, and an attendant, waving a kahili, stood at each corner of the table. The hostess was in a brilliant mood, conversing delightfully with her guests. She took an active part in the Amateur Musical Society of Honolulu, and for many years was a member of its executive committee. She had a very sweet and welltrained contralto voice, and many rehearsals and musicales were held in the drawing-room GARDEN AT HALEAKALA. I17 at " Haleakala." It was also a favorite meeting place for the Women's Sewing Society of the Fort Street Church, although Mrs. Bishop united with the Kawaiahao Church. But she delighted to gather her friends about her, irrespective of the lines commonly drawn which so often divide communities into narrow and selfish cliques. The meetings held at her house resembled gay parties, to which gentlemen came to the substantial supper that was served; the evening, afterwards, being devoted to music or conversation. Mrs. Bishop was vice-president of the Stranger's Friend Society, organized in I852 for the relief of destitute persons, or those temporarily in need of assistance, who found themselves adrift in Honolulu. It has made from the beginning an excellent record, and Mrs. Bishop as vice-president interested herself in the society with her usual energy and enthusiasm. Its meetings also were frequently held at "Haleakala," the ladies spending the afternoon, bringing their sewing, in the pleasant custom of that time, the gentlemen coming after business hours for supper, remaining for the evening. Many passing travellers were also asked to the meeting,-invitations that were seldom refused. II8 Amongst many such interesting companies of guests thus received, were the members of the first Japanese Embassy which passed through Honolulu on their way to Washington. As they took their leave, greatly pleased with the welcome that had been extended them, they presented little gifts to Mrs. Bishop and a few of her friends. A Reading Circle was also formed which met at " Haleakala" at which the plays of Shakespeare and other standard works were read, and which the King and Queen, the British Commissioner, and many prominent people of Honolulu attended. She also entertained the distinguished officers of the Austrian ship Donau, by some of whom she was entertained in turn when she visited Europe, six years afterwards. They did not soon forget either the hostess or her charming house. The ship arrived in port on the 2oth of May, I869, thirty-seven days out from Yokohama, her salute being returned by the government battery then crowning the heights of Punchbowl. On board the vessel were members of the Imperial Legation, Contre Admiral Baron von Petz, Envoy Entraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary, with his suite, and the Captain Chevalier von Wiflinger II9 with his officers. Mr. and Mrs. Bishop gave a ball and supper in their honor, which was attended by King Kamehameha V. and his staff, and they were present at the many entertainments given the Austrian officers while in Honolulu. Upon their arrival in Trieste in 1876, Mr. and Mrs. Bishop were entertained at the home of Baron von Petz and presented to his wife. They were also given letters to their friends in Naples and elsewhere, which led to the promotion of pleasant acquaintances, thus giving them an insight into the private life of distinguished people in the European capitals not accessible to the ordinary traveller. Still another interesting visit was that of the Duke of Edinburgh who arrived in Honolulu July 21, I869, in command of the British frigate Galatea en route from Tahiti to the East. He remained in Honolulu twelve days, a house, known still as " the Duke of Edinburgh's house," being placed at his disposal while ashore. He was entertained with the usual round of dinners, balls, and luaus; the latter pleased him especially because of their novelty. He returned all this hospitality, entertaining on board his ship and at 120 "Edinburgh House" which the King had furnished comfortably for his convenience. After the departure of the English prince, the King presented Mrs. Bishop, as a souvenir of the visit, the silver tea service that had been a part of the table appointments which he had provided. While many of Mrs. Bishop's warmest friends belonged to the Fort Street Church, after marriage she united with the old, historical native church-Kawaiahao. She was received into its communion July 9, 1867, and was thereafter a steadfast and faithful member, aiding the pastor both by her personal work and her generous contributions, the liberality of which was known only to him. She also taught in the Sunday-school and when she sailed for Europe the class was left in the care of the older pupils that it might not disband in her absence. A memorial tablet has been set into the wall above the pew which she and her parents occupied. CHAPTER XV OTHER REMINISCENCES. IN her marriage the same influences that had shaped the mind and character of the young wife continued. In her husband she found perfect intellectual companionship; she shared his liking for good books, for all the means of culture that were brought within their reach, and above all a regard and liking for the society of cultured and well-bred people. Honolulu since the founding of the Royal School had been more and more frequently visited by the ships of the navies of Europe and the United States. To the officers, brilliant and polished men of the world, Mrs. Bishop, a member of the court circle by right of birth, adorning it by her moral worth, her education and accomplishments, as has been shown, was a memorable hostess. She also received the diplomatic and scientific commissioners, sent out to the Islands by their respective governments, or by the learned associations which they 121 122 represented, and their families, while they were living in Honolulu. Under these circumstances it is not surprising that her thoughts should have dwelt much, even at that early date, upon the advancement of her people. A friend near and dear to both husband and wife has said of the early years of her married life: "Fond of a quiet life and seeking it in its domesticity, her husband was enabled to complete the studies which engaged his wife's attention in the school. He showed great care in her choice of reading and development of character, and in those formative years was undoubtedly laid a large growth of the principles, which dominated her life; the strong desire for the uplifting of her own people, and especially that of the rising generation of a new government. Her reading was shaped by the best selection of authors,-not altogether given to the novel, but books on government, books on the development of nations, etc. These were among her studies which prepared her for her broader life." Amongst other brilliant social events in which Mrs. Bishop participated were the entertainments given in honor of Prince Henry, the younger brother of the Emperor 123 William of Germany, then a lad of seventeen years of age, who visited Honolulu in the man-of-war Prince Adelbert. The ship arrived Saturday April 19, 1879, from Acapulco, on a voyage around the globe. A royal salute was fired and official visits were paid as soon as the vessel was at the berth. Captain McLean, with the young Prince, went ashore to pay a visit of ceremony to the King at the palace, by whom they were hospitably received. After the presentation to the King they were received by the Heir Apparent, the Princess Liliuokalani, Mrs. Bishop taking precedence in the presentations that followed. Many arrangements were made for elaborate entertainments which were brought to an abrupt termination by the arrival of the City of Sydney from San Francisco, bringing news of the death of a young brother of Prince Henry in Berlin, March 27th. The following extract from a letter written by Mrs. Cooke to her aunt, Mrs. Smith, gives a pleasant picture of Mrs. Bishop at home, on less formal occasions. "HONOLULU, March 21, 1873. "I have been out to lunch to-day with the Princess Bernice (Mrs. C. R. Bishop). She had a party of sixteen and we had a splendid 124 time. She lives in an elegant large house, with quite extensive grounds-for the city. The flowers and plants almost filled the house, many of which are rare and beautiful. The house is magnificently furnished and exceedingly well kept-grounds and all. The parlor furniture was rosewood upholstered in cuir colored silk with gold colored flowers. The lace curtains were a kind of Cluny lace. The parlor is larger than the ground plan of your house. Everything was on the same scale of elegance. His Excellency, Mr. Bishop, and Chief Justice Allen were with us at lunch.... We had a very agreeable time, very social and not wanting in merry sallies of pleasantry. Mrs. Bishop sent the carriage for me.... I came home about four o'clock." Mrs. Bishop continued her close relations with her teacher as long as she lived, continuing to consult her on all manner of questions where her sound practical ideas were of the greatest value. A daughter of Mrs. Cooke, then a young child, recalling one of her visits, said: "I was a small child and had been sent on some errand. I was barefooted and wore a little gingham dress. Mrs. Bishop drove up in her beautiful carriage with a pair of fine horses, and I admired both the Princess and equipage, as any child would have done. As 125 she was about to drive away she noticed that I, too, was about to leave and she said with her quick insight into the minds of children, in her sweet voice: 'Come, get into the carriage and I will drive you home.' I was overcome with the splendor of sitting beside Mrs. Bishop and driving in her fine carriage behind the prancing horses, while she talked to me in the pleasant manner she always showed toward children." Her courage, both moral and physical, was worthy a descendant of Kamehameha. No fears for her own safety would ever have prompted her to refuse help to those who required aid, however perilous such relief might have been to herself. There are those still living who were present when she unhesitatingly rescued two friends from drowning. The party was picnicking in Nuuanu Valley, above the waterfall at Luakaha, beside the stream where there were several deep pools. One of their number was ambitious to swim well, and, rather inexperienced, plunged in beyond her depth. She seized a companion who came to her aid and both sank. Mrs. Bishop, who was upon the bank, called to a friend to lie down upon the stones and extend her feet. This was done, and holding to the support thus 126 furnished, Mrs. Bishop waded out as far as she dared, stretched out her hands, and brought in both the drowning women. In April, i866, Mrs. Bishop, visited the United States for the first time with her husband, who had lived in Honolulu uninterruptedly for twenty years. The voyage was made in a steamship, the first that had sailed from Honolulu. They were the guests of Mr. Bishop's relatives in the country, and during their stay in California saw the grove of Sequoia gigantea in Calaveras County, the Geysers, and other places of interest. They returned to Honolulu in a sailing vessel that had been chartered to carry Anson Burlingame, afterwards the Chinese Ambassador to Russia, his family and suite, to China. Mr. Van Valkenberg, Minister to Japan, and his suite were also passengers. The vessel remained a week in the port of Honolulu, and both gentlemen were entertained by Mr. and Mrs. Bishop at " Haleakala." In 1871 Mr. and Mrs. Bishop went to the coast again and visited Washington, Mt. Vernon, Baltimore, New York, and Boston. In Baltimore they called on Mrs. Stockbridge, formerly Miss Montague, the sister of Mrs. 127 Cooke, to whom her letters in the preceding pages were addressed. A special visit was paid to Mr. Bishop's old home in New York. Niagara Falls, Montreal, and Quebec were also included in their itinerary. During the visit in Washington they renewed their acquaintance with Admiral and Mrs. Reynolds. Admiral Reynolds when a lieutenant in the navy was invalided for several years, came out to the Islands, and resided on Kauai. The acquaintance with Mr. and Mrs. Bishop in Honolulu was the beginning of a lasting friendship. Other relatives, naval officers, and old friends whom they had known in the Islands were seen during their stay in various places which they visited. Two incidents of her travels in the United States have been furnished by her cousin. During the journey across the continent she saw, for the first time, the forest trees of America along one of the great railway lines, in all the brilliancy of their autumn tints. With her love of nature, she was charmed with their beauty and she said to her husband: "Oh, why did you never tell me of this?" He explained that it was something which 128 could not be described, because there was no parallel to it in her own country. The other reminiscence is an incident of the same journey. On the train an English gentleman fell into conversation with Mrs. Bishop and asked where she lived. She replied: "In the Hawaiian Islands." He said: "Oh, that was where they killed Captain Cook." "Yes," she replied, "we killed him but we did not eat him." Another amusing incident was recalled of a visit paid to the Indian reservation at Old Town, not far from Bangor, Maine, where they were visiting relatives of Mrs. Allen. They were a picnic party and the chief invited them to come into his grounds and eat their luncheon under a large elm tree there. He was much interested in Mrs. Bishop, and after a little while he approached her and said: "What tribe you?" She laughed and said: "I am not an Indian." She then talked to him in Hawaiian and he shook his head. "No you are not an Indian, but," he asked, "where is your country?" 129 She tried to tell him, and then went into the house and there pointed out the Hawaiian Islands upon the map. When he asked what kind of a government they had in the Islands, and she said "a King," he replied: "Now me speech a little. I think a King no good, for if he is bad you have him as long as he lives; but if you have a bad President, in four years you can get another." This greatly amused Mrs. Bishop and her party. CHAPTER XVI CORRESPONDENCE. THE letters, which are all of any importance that survived the fire following the San Francisco earthquake in 1906, give a comprehensive knowledge of Mrs. Bishop's life from the beginning of 1875 to the period immediately preceding her death in 1884. They indicate her keen enjoyment in affairs; her zest in simple, wholesome pleasures, in the society of her friends; her unflagging regard for her domestic and social responsibilities. They show, too, how much she derived from her European travels, especially the opportunities offered her to hear good music, which were never neglected. Most of the letters preserved were written to her husband's cousin, Mrs. Allen, of Honolulu, whose impressions of "Haleakala" have been given in the preceding pages. The sudden return of the King mentioned in the following letter was from a diplomatic 130 I3I mission to Washington which resulted, six months later, in the ratification of the Reciprocity Treaty between Hawaii and the United States-the beginning of a new era in prosperity for the Islands. The King was welcomed by a hookupu in the palace grounds -the native custom of presenting gifts reserved for the sovereign and guests of high official eminence,-and by a ball at which the Quadrille of Honor was arranged as follows: "King Kalakaua and Mrs. Ballieu (wife of the French Commissioner); Admiral Almy, U. S. N., and Mrs. Bishop; his Excellency the U. S. Minister Resident and Queen Kapiolani; M. Ballieu, the French Commissioner, and the Princess Liliuokalani Dominis; H. R. H. Prince Leleiohoku and Mrs. W. L. Green; Mr. Wodehouse, H. B. M. Commissioner, and Princess Miriam Cleghorn; Captain Gherardi, U. S. N., and Mrs. W. F. Allen; Commander Anson, R. N., and Mrs. P. C. Jones; Captain Skerrett, U. S. N., and Mrs. Haines; Captain Erben, U. S. N., and Mrs. W. C. Parke. Of this distinguished company many have since died. Captain Gherardi and Captain Skerrett rose afterwards to the rank of Rear-Admiral in the United States Navy. 132 "' HALEAKALA,' Feb. i6, T875. "DEAR COUSIN CORDIE: "The King's return yesterday surprised us very much, although I was told the evening before at the Governor's ball that there was a possibility of their returning this trip, but took it as a false report, and thought no more of it until we were startled by the guns while at breakfast. I presume the German officers, however, are delighted, as they have been anxious to see him. The Glades gave a very nice party for them (the Germans) at the hotel. It was quite selectmostly dancing ladies, and it was highly amusing to see the complete contrast in the style of dancing, between the Americans and Germans; the one dancing on a space about as big as a dime, the other flying in a most frantic manner across and around the room. Their partners looked, as a gentleman expressed it, as if they were flying across the room in a balloon. "Nevertheless, it was a gay and lively party-more so than any I have attended for a long, long time. We are invited to meet them (the officers) at 'the little doctor's' to-morrow evening. I am so glad you are coming back this week as our time for departure is very near. I have much to do. Oh dear! My heart misgives me, sometimes when I think of going away, perhaps never to return. Love to the Severances 133 and the Ballieus-and lots to yourself, and husband"I am yours affectionately, "BERNICE." "SAN FRANCISCO, June 7, 1875. "Before I go on with other subjects, I must say something in regard to the very great surprise you all gave us when, on the morning of Friday last, the Captain brought us your remembrances and gifts for our silver wedding day, and such gifts! It nearly took my breath away. I had not the faintest idea what you were up to, and it explained one or two things that seemed rather queer. Still, it never occurred to me that it might have some connection with the day, for I had forgotten it myself. At all events, allow us to thank you all, dear, dear friends and relations for this, another proof of your love and attachment, and we will try and be worthy of it. I shall write to all-if only a few lines, who so kindly remembered us. Did you know what the King gave me? The ribbon of the Order of Kalakaua. Was it not good of him? I appreciate highly this proof of his esteem. We shall send back in charge of Captain Brown the presents to your care while we are absent, with the exception of the ribbon, the silver purse and fruit knife from John Paty; these we will take with us. "And now about the voyage; we were 134 sick nearly all the way over. It was rough and it was only within two days of our arrival that we had calm weather. We arrived last evening-just eight days from Honolulu-and found E and Willie B at the wharf waiting for us. He drove us straight here to his house, and S gave us a very warm welcome, put us in the best room, and gave us the best of everything. They have a fine house, a little far out of town-the only objection-which commands a fine view of the city. The whole house is nicely furnished, and there is an air of elegance about the establishment that speaks well for the mistress of it; and, indeed, she seems to be an exceedingly nice person,well-mannered, kind hearted, amiable, and good looking. Her pictures do not do her justice....Since I wrote the foregoing we have been up the country where we left Bernice 1 with her parents, and have only just returned, tired and dusty, as you may imagine.. "I hardly know what I have written for my head was in a perfect whirl when I scribbled off my letter. Then, the dinner bell rang, and before we had quite finished, Joe Cooke called, and presently the Atwoods came in. We had a pleasant visit from them and a little while after, the Severances called. By that time, it was too late to write I Mr. Bishop's niece, named for Mrs. Bishop. I35 again, and the next morning, early, we started for Stockton... We are going to see Ristori to-night and Saturday afternoon de Murska. I hear that they have taken passage in the 'City of Melbourne' for Honolulu. You must go and hear them if they play in Honolulu. I hope that you are quite settled by this time1 and the people do not annoy you. "I must end this long letter, hoping that you may be able to make it out. Give lots of love to everybody, more especially to the people on the place. Love and aloha nui to you from your affectionate cousin, " BERNICE P. B." "NEW YORK, June 21, I875. DEAR COUSIN CORDIE: " Here we are once more in this city and at the old place-the Gilsey House. We arrived this morning at seven o'clock at the Grand Central Depot, and very grand it is indeedI may say, magnificent and imposing. You would hardly know that part of town now. It is all built up with stores and residences, and not far from there is the Windsor.2 Dear Cordie, I am writing this under difficulties-am so tired and used up, and my head is in such a whirl. I can scarcely 1 Mr. and Mrs. Allen occupied " Haleakala " during the absence of Mr. and Mrs. Bishop. 2 Destroyed by fire with great loss of life, March, 17, 1900. 136 think. The journey across was pleasantand the eating-places all along were clean and neat, and the food excellent. But, under the circumstances it is a very fatiguing journey." "MONDAY, June 28. " Here it is, a whole week since this was written, and you, no doubt, will wonder what I have been doing in the meantime. Not a moment have I had, even to write, and I am going to give you a few lines at a timea short extract of the events of three weeks. As soon as ever our luggage arrived, we went down-town in search of my French dressmaker. To my astonishment no dressmaker was there. C — said: 'you don't suppose that you will find, at the end of four years, people living at the same place?'..." She writes a little later: "Mrs. Y —, Bernice [Mr. Bishop's niece], and I started for a shopping expedition, or, rather, to look around-went together, from shop to shop, until 12 o'clock. Then we took the stage for the wharf where the 'Tennessee's' boat was waiting for us, and found C- and Mrs. W — already there. We went off and were warmly welcomed by our friends. They had no idea we would be in New York so soon-not before the 25th and they were to sail the day following our visit. I37 It was a gratification to us all to meet again, so unexpectedly, too. When we got on board whom should we meet but Captain Meade and Captain and Mrs. Temple. We had a delightful visit-talked of old times and old friends. The officers had very comfortable quarters-large and airy, with every convenience. When we came ashore Mrs. R — came with us. She and I did a little shopping and then came back to our hotel and had tea. After tea, Mr. and Mrs. Youmans called and we all went to Gilmore's Garden concert. This is a new institution in New York, and it is where the old depot used to stand, and lately Barnum's Hippodrome. There are rows and rows of seats all around, with tables. People sit at these and drink and eat ices. Then comes the promenade; in the centre a huge fountain, with here and there smaller fountains, shrubberies and flowers growing about, with more seats interspersed. At the other end is a raised platform for musicians, and at the extreme end of the building, opposite the entrance, an immense grotto and waterfall. The water rushes over a succession of mosscovered stones (not real) into a basin below, and over this huge stalactites, or something resembling them. As you first enter the place and look on the scene, and see hundreds of well-dressed people sitting in groups, some promenading, round this immense space, with many-colored lights suspended in fes 138 toons overhead and the band playing, you would think you were in some fairy land, or looking at a scene in the Arabian Nights. It was a new sensation to me... As you are aware, shopping in New York is an Herculanean task. I am having three dresses made-a dinner dress of the lightest shade of blue, and a black silk with a brown sort of Maltese lace (I hardly know what to call it) that comes in dress lengths, for an overskirt and basque.... I have been getting a travelling hat for myself and Bernice. Mine is of brown chip, trimmed with some sort of brown silk stuff and apple blossoms. "July ist. We have just returned from the Palisades where we spent yesterday and last night. It was perfectly charming. We left Bernice with the Nordhofs-where she is going to stay until we sail, which will be on the 7th of July on the 'Bothnia'... Aloha, olua to all inquiring friends, with love to you and the Judge if he is still with you. 'Your affectionate cousin, "BERNICE B." CHAPTER XVII CORRESPONDENCE: ARRIVAL IN ENGLAND. "LANGHAM HOTEL, LONDON, Aug. 4, 1875. "MY DEAR COUSIN CORDIE: "You cannot imagine how our hearts were gladdened yesterday by the receipt of letters from you all. We were famished for news from home, not having heard anything since we left. Thank you very much for your good long letter. I am happy to know that everything is going on well with you. I had a letter from Mrs. Wodehousel by this mail and it was full of grief for the loss of her baby. I feel very sorry for her, yet under the circumstances, it was better that the child had been taken away. "And so the ball went off well. I am glad to hear it. In one of my letters it was mentioned that Henry C — was the swell of the evening, the King second, Mrs.dressed magnificently in green and gold brocade. I can only say that I wish I had been there. (My hand is very shaky-I wonder if it is the travelling makes it so.) I Wife of the British Minister in Honolulu. I39 140 wrote you a hasty line in pencil just before reaching Queenstown and commenced one in Liverpool, but had no time to finish it, as we knew of the departure of the Honolulu mail through Mr. I- only about two hours before. So I hurriedly finished Mrs. Dowsett's letter which I had begun in Dublin but had not time to finish there, and wrote one to Kanakaole, for him and the people, but could not finish yours. "Oh, dear Cordie, I wish there were thirty hours in the day, instead of only twelve, to suit the way we are doing-I mean, attempting so much in so short a space of time...When night comes I am nearly dead with fatigue. At all events I hope I shall live through it. "As you see from the above date, we are now in London, and I can hardly realize the fact. It seems like a dream, and, what seems more strange, the names of streets and places here are so familiar to me-having heard and read of them from my childhood. It seems as if I had been away for years, and had come back to renew my acquaintance with them. And what a strange and wonderful city London is; so vast, so mighty! Sometimes there comes over one an overwhelming feeling-I hardly know what to call it-fear,-when I see the crowds of people as the other day, at the Crystal Palace. There were thousands and I thought all London must be there-yet a friend who i41 called shortly afterwards said, she was at the Alexandra Palace the same afternoon, and she thought all London was there. The occasion of this, our second visit to Sydenham, was to attend a benefit concert to Sims Reeves, the greatest tenor singer of the age. Mme. Nilsson, Mdlle. Tietjens (who, to my mind, is a more charming singer than Nilsson), Mme. Patti, Mr. Lloyd, and Signor Foli, all assisted. "It was, as you may imagine, a great treat to us, and we had very good seats in the orchestra. We were not only near the singers, but had a fine view of the whole audience. After the concert the interval was occupied either promenading through the long corridors of the palace, or visiting the works of art in the galleries, or in eating. At about nine o'clock the fireworks began, and such a grand display I never saw in my life. I thought that on the Fourth of July in New York it was magnificent, but it was nothing compared to this. It was gloriousbeyond my powers of description. It was over by ten o'clock and then came the rush for the [railway] carriages. I wish you could have seen the hundreds of people, trying to squeeze in, and those who could not (ourselves among the number) very disconsolate, while those that were in, looked on, complacent and innocent! It was very provoking. At the same time, it was great fun. In ten minutes there was another train and with 142 great difficulty we got a seat in this. Then we laughed at those outside, who were peering in to see if there were any vacant places. Our train started off and when near London stopped for some considerable time. Later we found that there was a train off the track. In a little while there were, I don't know how many trains all blocked. There we waited for nearly an hour, tired and sleepy. At last we got off, and, much to my joy, passed the train that had started ahead of us and got to the Victoria station, safe and sound. It was after twelve o'clock when we reached the hotel. "But here I am-running off about this when I presume you are wishing to know what we have been doing since landing. I will try to give you a hasty account of our trip through Ireland and on to England. We landed at Queenstown and went directly to Cork and thence to Blarney Castle, and, of course, kissing the Blarney stone. We visited the new Blarney Castle only a few steps from the old ruins-a fine structure just finished, the grounds not yet laid out. We stayed over Sunday and on Monday morning took the train for Killarney. We had intended having an open carriage and driving to the Lakes by way of Glengariff, where they say the scenery is very beautiful, but it was rainy and disagreeable and we gave it up, much to our regret. "We were in Killarney two days and such 143 a delightful time as we had! The lakes are studded with beautiful islands, large and small, which were reflected in the clear water -so clear that one could not tell where the land ceased and the water commenced. And then the old ruins of abbeys and castles in the neighborhood were very interesting. I have photographs of all these places which I intend to paste in my journal. " From Killarney we went on to Dublin and were there four days. In the meantime, we went to County Wicklow, in the neighborhood of Bray through some level domains belonging to Sir Powers Court and Gen. Monck, when a hail-storm came on, but we were not much wet. "The most interesting thing to me in Dublin was the church of St. Patrick, where the stalls of the Knights of St. Patrick are to be seen, with their coats of arms, and all the old banners over each stall. " From Dublin-or rather from Kingstown, we crossed over to Holyhead in three and a half hours. The channel was very smooth; we have been, thus far, fortunate in our sea voyaging. We went ashore immediately, got into the train which was very near the landing stage and went on to the very fine old city of Chester-such a grand old town to be sure! The houses are built with galleries, and the pedestrians walk under them from house to house, as if they were on the sidewalk. It was very droll. It not 144 only shelters one from the sun, but from the rain also. After a hasty refreshment we took a carriage and drove out to Eaton Hall, the country seat of the Duke of Westminster. We entered through a massive gateway, which is also the porter's lodge, into the outer part-the trees growing wild with underbrush, but very picturesque, winding along for a mile or more, until we came to another great gateway into the inner park. This was more beautiful than the outer park. The trees were large, growing either singly or in groups, and trimmed at a certain height from the ground. In the distance and all about the effect was magnificent. We saw herds of deer moving about. Oh dear, I am afraid if I go on I shall never finish, for the subject is inexhaustible. So I won't say anything more about this grand country seat until I can give it you by word of mouth, when I come home. "From Chester we went to Liverpool but as I was too miserable from fatigue I saw nothing of the place except when driving out to dine with the D s.1 "From Liverpool we came on here and have been here nearly a week. The first evening we went to Mme. Tussaud's and were highly amused with what we saw. We have I Mr. Theopholus Davies who lived near Liverpool, with whom the Princess Kaiulani made her home while in England; the Janions, Hopkins, and other families were all most cordial and kind to Mr. and Mrs. Bishop at this time. i45 seen Westminster Abbey, and yesterday drove in Hyde Park and Regent Park in my friend Walpole's carriage which he kindly lent us. At six o'clock we drove to the House of Parliament and there we met him by appointment, and he showed us all over the building. We could not go into the Commons as it was sitting, but he told me to look through the glass door, which I did. He has been most kind to us, and it was very good of him to leave his seat in the House to attend to us strangers. His wife is on the Continent at some spa on account of her health. His eldest daughter is the wife of the eldest son of Lord Coventry, who is also a cousin of Mr. Eaton. Did I tell you that he gave us a letter to his cousin-a younger brother of this gentleman. C — feels shy about calling and declares he won't call, but he has sent the letter." "Saturday 7, 1875. "I won't cross sheets any more-a foolish practice, so will commence with a clean page, and will try to tell you what we have been doing since writing the other day. I left off rather abruptly, as I happened to think that I must attend to my dress which was being fixed over at a shop in Oxford street-something like Stewart's or Arnold's and Constable's, where they keep everything under the sun-even to ready made costumes! I had bought one there, a very dark green cashmere I0 146 dress (as it has been cold ever since leaving New York) with a plaid overskirt and sleeves. It is quite a stylish suit. It is the latest fashion to have the lower skirt match the basque-waist-the overskirt to correspond with the sleeves; if the latter one is plaid the other must be plain, and vice versa. It is certainly very odd, but I am getting used to it. After I had done my shopping I came back through Regent street and met Col. Fielding. He had just been to see us, had had a visit with C, and was going, then, to Regent street to meet me. I did not see him but he recognized me and said: 'Is this Mrs. Bishop?' I looked up and knew him directly. We shook hands and the first thing he did was to scold me for having gone to Ireland first. 'You know', he said, 'that I wanted you to come to England direct, and I was going to make arrangements for you then,-where to go, whom to visit, etc.' "He is very kind. Well-he came back to the hotel with me and then he planned that we should go to Windsor Castle Friday (yesterday), which we did. He secured seats for us on top of the coach which leaves for Virginia Water every day. I wish you could have seen us start from the White Horse Cellar, Piccadilly, on the top of the coach with four horses, the driver in livery, the man behind blowing the horn as we drove down Piccadilly in grand style. We had a lovely day. I47 "We went through all the suburban villages of London along the Thames-Kensington, Richmond, Twickenham, Bushy Park, Strawberry Hill, Chiswick, and many others, whose names I do not remember. We had fine views of the country, so far as the fog would permit. For twenty-eight miles we were in this blissful state, and I only regret it that it was not longer. We changed horses three times on the way. We stopped off at the Wheat-Sheaf Hotel (Virginia Water), had a nice dinner, and there was a fly waiting, for which Col. F — had written to the proprietor -to take us to the castle. We spent the afternoon there, visited all apartments-the terraces, etc. We were a little too late to see the stables. It is a grand and noble castle, worthy to be the residence of the sovereigns of a great nation. At six we took the train for London. To-day we were at the Zoological Garden at Regent's Park and have just returned-tired out. It is a most wonderful place. One needs to go to other countries to see the animals, birds, and reptiles native to their own. They can see them all here-all the creatures of the air and the earth, and the waters under the earth. To-morrow afternoon Col. Fielding and ourselves are going to dine with Lord Mansfield in Kenwood, of which I shall give you an account when we have made the visit. Next Tuesday the 15th we shall start for Scotland, stopping for a day, I think, to see the 148 English lakes, and on to our friends, the Sterlings." "BALMORAL HOTEL [Edinburgh] Aug. 22, I875. ' You will think with me, that this is a very odd sort of letter-written at all times and places. But I can only say that it has travelled with me all over Scotland,-to the Highlands, and now to this most wonderful city. I have no time to waste but will merely say that we visited our friends for four days, left Bernice with them while we went north, then thro' the Caledonian Canal -the most delightful of trips to Inverness, down to Blair Athole, Sterling and Edinbro'. Mrs. Sterling and Bernice came on here, and now we are all together again. We are well and are enjoying every moment, as you may imagine. But it is very fatiguing for all that. We have been here three days, shall spend another day, and then on Tuesday-day after to-morrow-are off for London again, by the Great Eastern Route. I cannot tell how long we shall be there-perhaps long enough to have a dress made, for I am quite pilikia for a nice warm dress, and then off for the Rhine. We have just learned that to-morrow the Island mail leaves. Please tell Mrs. Owen, with my love, that we were sorry not to have been able to stop at Sheffield to see her friends as we hope to do by and by if possible. Our kind love to the Judge-(What is Mrs. A —s address in 149 Germany?) and William, and with aloha nui to yourself. "Yours affec1y " BERNICE. "Aloha to the people." "LANGHAM HOTEL, LONDON, Aug. 29, I875. "DEAR COUSIN CORDIE: " On our return from Scotland, a few days ago, we found letters from you and others awaiting us. It is unnecessary to say that we read them with avidity, but little thought that in a short time we shall be with you. The news of the failure of the Bank of California, which C — saw in the papers day before yesterday, has disarranged our plans, and of course there is nothing now to be done but for him to go home and look after his business which may suffer for awhile, if at all. We were making preparations for the contemplated tour, and had our trunks all arranged, one for leaving here, another to be sent to Paris to await our arrival there. We were to have left to-morrow for Calais when the sad news came of the failure. As C —'s bank was doing business with them and all his letters of credit abroad were through them, it gave him a great shock, and he instantly decided for our return, as far as San Francisco at least. While we were in the midst of this excitement and trouble who should pop in upon us but Mr. Pfluger from Bremen on his way to San Francisco I50 and Honolulu. He had come to London on purpose to see us. But it was not until he had landed at Dover that he saw in the papers the failure of the bank, and he doubly rejoiced at the prospect of meeting us. I can assure you his coming was a great relief and happiness to us, and, being an old friend, he and C — had, as Mrs. L --- would say, 'a prolonged talk.' He would not hear of my going back and proposed to take me to Bremen to spend the winter with his wife and the Hackfelds. Of course it was not to be thought of under the circumstances, however much I may desire to do so. "He was very kind and thoughtful. It was a great disappointment to us, as you may imagine, after coming this great distance not to be able to accomplish all we intended to do, but so it is,-' man proposes but God disposes.' We shall leave here for Liverpool Wednesday, September ist, to sail the next day for New York, if we can possibly get a passage, or for Boston if that also is possible, for we find that all the English and German steamers are full of returning tourists, for the whole of September, and we are anxious to get to San Francisco as quickly as possible. Let me beg of you not to do anything at all about moving away until you hear from us in San Francisco. We may be -and it is quite possible-detained in San Francisco for some time; at all events, do nothing about it until you hear from us about 151 the matter. Kind love to the good man and the Judge [Allen]... to the people and all inquiring friends. "Ever your affectionate " BERNICE." Mr. Bishop was recalled to America upon the eve of setting out upon an extensive European tour, by business affairs that required his personal attention. Returning to New York from London Mrs. Bishop remained in the East while her husband made a hurried trip to San Francisco, rejoining her in New York. During her absence she placed her niece in school, giving the matter the close attention she always devoted to questions of that sort. "HAIGHT HOUSE, NEW YORK, Sept. 18, I875. "DEAR COUSIN CORDIE: " I have so many things to say to you that I fear it will end in my saying nothing, or very little. In the first place, I wrote you from London just before we left, that we were bound home in consequence of bad news from San Francisco.... Our hearts were lightened by the [later] news and we regretted -and were somewhat provoked-that we were not enlightened about the state of affairs in California before leaving England. It would have made a great difference in our 152 plans. Bernice and I would have remained behind. As we are here our plan now is for me to stay here while C — goes to San Francisco.... He will be absent about three weeks, and on his return we shall make another start for Europe. We shall, I think, go direct to the Continent by way of Southampton. I shall stay with our friends the W —s [Mr. and Mrs. J. B. Williams] at Stamford most of the time during C —s absence. Bernice is to go to a boarding school kept by a Mrs. Richardson-an English lady, a widow, who has a limited number of boarders-only twelve-but has a larger number of day scholars. She has a French teacher, a German and English teacher, and two others as assistants.... So you see I am most fortunate in having such an excellent school to send B — to, and I only hope she will improve her opportunities. "I have not said anything about our voyage back. It was pleasant, so far as the weather was concerned, until within three days of our arrival here, when it was very rough. But it was so crowded-Only think! there were 236 cabin passengers and 200 and odd steerage. It was positively disagreeable and when meal time came it was as much as we could do to get anything to eat. It was a scramble from the beginning to the end of the meal, and the roughest and rudest generally had the lion's share. "Our room was one of the largest (we were I53 all in it with a curtain between) but it was far forward and we had to pass many disagreeables to get to it. But all is well that ends well. We were glad enough to arrive in New York without any mishap. We just escaped a great danger two days before, during a dense fog, when we came within an ace of having a collision with a sailing ship. The officer on duty, it seems, heard the fog whistle of some vessel (ours had just blown) and directly stopped the engine. Just at that moment, a large ship appeared, lights in front, which looked, they said, as if she were coming upon us, but cleared us by about twenty feet only. It was a providential escape, to them as well as to us. Perhaps if our engines had not been stopped there would have been a serious accident. This happened early in the morning, and I was not awake so knew nothing of the danger until some time after. "New York is looking lovely indeed. I never saw the city so bright, cheerful, and clean as it is now. After having seen London with its fog, smoke, and dingy appearance generally, New York seems perfection. But, for all that I long to be in London once more. It is a charming place to be in, and live in. I don't think one would ever tire of the life there, and I am anticipating with great pleasure the return there next spring. We have been staying with Mrs. Youmans since our return, the Professor being in Europe attend I54 ing the British Scientific Association, but this afternoon we shall all break up. C — starts for the Coast by the evening train, while B — and I will go to Stamford to stay, and on Monday Mrs. Youmans's apartments will be in the hands of the decorators and painters." CHAPTER XVIII CORRESPONDENCE: VISITS WITH FRIENDS. IN the following letter Mrs. Bishop announces that business matters have so adjusted themselves, there having been no real cause for anxiety, she with her husband will shortly return to Europe. She also mentions meeting Clarence King, the brilliant writer and scientist, who had spent some time in the Islands and whose untimely death was deeply deplored. The debut of Miss Cooke [Annis Montague], afterwards Mrs. Charles Turner, as "Queen" in Les Huguenots, in New York is described. One interesting incident has been omitted. Mrs. Bishop occupied a box, having with her a friend who was a musician. The young debutante, as Mrs. Bishop has said, suffering from stage fright, seemed about to forget her part. The friend with Mrs. Bishop, seeing her hesitation, softly prompted her, whereupon she recovered her presence of mind and went through the score without further difficulty. She was 155 I56 "the little Mary Annis, "the sweetest baby in the world," of whom Bernice had written to Miss Montague when she herself was a young girl of fifteen. It is pleasant to record that Mrs. Bishop's anticipations were realized and that the young singer not only rose to distinction in her profession, but has been the means of helping others achieve success. She was one of the first to recognize the talent of Mme. Melba, then residing in Australia, where Mrs. Turner also lived, and gave her her first instruction. "NEW YORK, Oct. 2ISt, I875. "MY DEAR COUSIN CORDIE: " I presume you have long ere this recovered from the shock of the news of our returning home, and if I can imagine such a thing I don't think you will be as glad to have us disturb your peace and quiet by coming back just now. We are not to return. I don't care to go back just yet. I am enjoying myself too well to wish that, and so, after staying in New York six weeks, C — in the meantime being in San F —, we are going back again to Europe. We sail day after to-morrow (Saturday), in the German steamer Main direct for Bremen. We have only two days to get ready in and I am therefore very busy. Our trunks are at the A s and we are here at the Everett house, only two I57 blocks from there. I have been staying with the Williamses in Stamford most of the time. One week I visited my old friend, Professor Lyman, in New Haven, where I met some very charming people-one in particular, a Dr. Farnham who, with his pretty wife, was very polite and kind. They were at the Islands some dozen years ago. He was then very young and stayed with Baxter Armstrong at Waimanalo.... Yesterday Mrs. S — and Miss Burhans were in. I was very glad to see them. The latter tells me she is going with her two nieces to visit in Honolulu. I am so glad they are going to you, I only wish that we were at home to receive them. How happy you will be in seeing your friends once more. She spoke of asking you to engage rooms for her at the hotel. I assured her that you would do no such thing, for our house is big enough to accommodate them all. So, dear Cordie, I beg you will use the south room where some of my things are.. "They intend to come in the December steamer. We went last evening to Madison Ave. and saw her (Miss B.) again. I gave her all sorts of advice for the land journey and the sea journey. "What do you think, we have not heard from home for two months. We do not know what you have been doing and I am really famished for letters. They have all gone to England, and I suppose are waiting I58 for us there. It is too bad! C — met Mrs. Gherardi in San F — when he was there. We did not know that she had returned, or that the Pensacola had left the Islands.... What a feast we shall have when we get our letters. I have seen Clarence King several times. He seems to be as gay and as full of nonsense as ever. He went with me from Stamford to New Haven. He, by the bye, was a pupil of Professor Lyman's and we talked of nothing but 'the Islands.' He tells me he is going back there a year from now to make a survey of the volcanoes, to study their characteristics, and write a book about them. Before I forget it, I must tell you about Mary Cooke [Annis Montague]. She is here with the [Clara Louise] Kellogg Opera Company, and it was quite by accident that I learned of it. Of course I immediately came to town to see her. She was delighted to see me. She is looking very well. She has rooms in a very nice boarding house-private-and has a French maidrather an oldish person-whom she is very fond of and she attends her whenever she goes to the theatre and chaperones her at public places, when she is not with friends. "Well, about a week ago she made her d6but in the character of the 'Queen' in the opera of the Huguenots-rather a difficult r6le for a young and inexperienced person to appear in for the first time. She sang very well.... As long as she has the voice-and 159 she has the voice,-the acting can be learned, -acquired by practice. I am confident she is cut out for the stage. She had many friends amongst the audience that night and she was very kindly received. The papers next morning also treated her very kindly for which I was glad, for had they been severe I doubt whether she would have had the heart to go on. "It was odd how I met the Halls. I had come to town on purpose to attend Mary's debut and was lunching at Mrs. Youmans', when who should come in but Willie Hall. We were both, of course, delighted to see him, so, after luncheon, she (Mrs. Youmans) and I went over to the Fifth Avenue Hotel to see Mrs. H. They, also, had come to the city to be present at Mary's debut, so we arranged that we should all meet there,myself, Mrs. T., Miss Sarah Coan, and others of our friends,-and all go together to the theatre in the evening, which we did and had quite a jolly time.... Bernice is now at a boarding school in Stamford-a very nice school indeed. There are only about eleven boarders with thirty day scholars and they have the best of instruction. The teachers are ladies -which is a great thing, as girls involuntarily acquire their little ways and manners from their teachers. She has grown and is getting to have red cheeks-very becoming to her. Mrs. Youmans and the Nordhofs tell me that she is greatly improved by travel. I hope i6o she is, and I feel relieved that she is in a good school and is very happy with her teachers and her school companions. I am sorry to leave her behind me, however, for I shall miss her while travelling, she was so companionable. I shall feel lonely without her. Our friends the W —s will look after her. "And now I must close with the hope that you will be able to unravel this letter. I dare not read it over. The blots and mistakes stare me in the face. So that hoping you will be lenient to all imperfections (for I have written in great haste) with love to you and your husband and father, and all the folks in the yard1 and to all inquiring friends, foreigners and natives, believe me ever your affectionate cousin, "PAUAHI.2 "I enclose a sprig of shamrock I preserved when in Ireland to send Mrs. McKibbin when I wrote to Mrs. Dowsett. Will you give it to her now? I came across it the other day. Aloha to them. The purple sprig is Scotch heather for you." 1 Her native retainers and servants. 2 This is the only letter which was signed with her Hawaiian name. CHAPTER XIX CORRESPONDENCE: THE RETURN TO EUROPE. "FRANKFORT, Nov. I th, I875. "DEAR COUSIN CORDIE: " Here we are, fairly in Germany amongst the Germans, and hearing nothing but the German language spoken. We are so bewildered that we look at each other and ask: "' What does he say?' "Oh dear, you would laugh to see us when equipped for a journey. C — carries around his neck the opera glass fastened to a strap; in one hand his valise, in the other my portmanteau, and our bundle of rugs with the umbrellas stuck into it, while I carry a bag with a long strap thrown around my shoulder which contains the guide book, the phrase book, my journal, pencils, handkerchiefs, etc., etc. In one hand is my shawl strap with sundry other things, and thus we present a very unique and droll appearance. I proposed the other day to have our photographs taken in this style to send home for your admiration, but C — objected. "Well, dear, here I am talking nonsense, and not a word have I said about our pasII 161 162 sage over. There is not much to say except that we made a good voyage of twelve days to Bremen. The weather was rough most of the way until we got into the Channel, and from there to Bremen we made a splendid run, the sea smooth but fearfully cold. We made pleasant acquaintances on the voyage. There were but fifteen cabin passengers, including three children, so few that we were thrown together rather more than otherwise would have been the case; but they were very nice people. We were all sorry to part after arriving in Bremen. Some went one way and some another whilst we remained there three days and part of another. "Our friends, the Hackfelds, were exceedingly kind to us. They took us everywhere. The most interesting place of all was the Rathskeller where the old wine is kept in huge vats. We spent an evening there. The Glades-brother of our Mr. Glade-and his family were also of the party. We drank some of the Rose wine-aged 250 years-a horrible stuff! Ate oysters, stewed chicken, and what not. We had a very jolly time and it was after twelve o'clock when we emerged out of the cellar. It is a favorite place of resort of an evening for the good people of Bremen where they go to eat, drink, and smoke. I shall give you a more minute description of the place later on, but have not the time now, as I am writing this late into the night.... 163 "From Bremen we went to Cologne where we spent two days. The first, being very unwell, I did not go about, but the next visited the cathedral, a magnificent edifice not yet finished, the Jesuit Church, the Church of St. Ursula, where we were shown the bones of I,ooo virgins who were massacred by the Germans while on their way home to England with their princess from a pilgrimage to Rome. All these bones are preserved in glass cases, as are also the skulls, incased in velvet, beautifully embroidered in gold and silver thread, the work of the nuns, who, at one time, were attached to this church. Strange taste! "From this latter place (Cologne) we came to Coblenz, where we spent one night and the next morning came by boat up the Rhine to Bingen. Altho' the weather was very disagreeable, rainy, windy, and cold, so that we were not able to be up on deck much, yet we were amply repaid, for the scenery was lovely beyond description. Each bank of the river was studded with castles, some in ruins, while others were in good state of preservation, each picturesquely perched on some high cliff, while the sides of the hills were covered with vines, all laid out in small patches and highly cultivated. "At Bingen we took the train to this place via Mayence where we arrived last evening. To-day we have been in the picture galleries -to the Kaisersaal and the Palm Garden, 164 the principal places of interest in Frankfort. "To-morrow we go to Heidelberg and then to Clarens, Switzerland; from Switzerland to Vienna, Trieste, Venice, and Naples, back to Rome. This is I believe our present programme. And now'I must bid you goodbye and good-night. Love to the kane, to the Judge, to all inquiring friends, and to all the people in the yard. Only think! We have had no letters from you since we left England. The July letters were the last we received. We are expecting every day, however, to receive a pile,-the accumulation of three months. C —sends his love to you both. Ever your loving cousin, "BERNICE. "I have seen such lovely things in the shop windows to-day. I hear C —calling out: 'When are you going to stop writing.' Goodbye again." "CLARENS, SWITZERLAND, Nov. 20, I875. " MY DEAR COUSIN CORDIE: "Two days ago there came a large package of letters,- those that have been pursuing us to London, back to San Francisco, to London again, and finally to this place. I can assure you they gladdened our hearts, for they were the first we had received for three months, with the exception of two stray letters from you and Lydia which I received last week in Heidelberg. We had a very delightful visit at that place for one day and two nights. Although there is not much to be seen in the town itself, the castle, which stands back of the town on the slope of a hill and only five minutes' walk from our hotel, was worth coming so far to see. Indeed, they are considered the most interesting ruins in all Germany, and then the view from the terrace is superb. There is only one building which is in a tolerable state of preservation. One of the Dukes of Baden had it restored, I believe. In it is a collection, and a very large one, of portraits of all the Electors and Kings of Germany, Austria, and a few of the Kings of France, with the old clothes once used by these individuals, a collection of old medals, spears, cross-bows, furniture, and other things too numerous to be mentioned. Indeed it was a most interesting museum and we spent, with Dr. Hillebrand, who was with us, a very pleasant Sunday morning, rambling about the old castle, the terraces, and gardens. After visiting these old castles and ruins one realizes the stories one has read in history and romance of the life led by the marauders of the Middle Ages in feudal times, and the ingenious mode of attacking their enemies, or defending themselves in their strongholds. "From Heidelberg we came on to Berne where we found Mr. Williams waiting for us. I66 We were very glad to see him, indeed, as he was so kind to come and meet us.... He urged us to go to Clarens and visit them, to which we consented, and after a day's visit in Berne (a fine old city) where we were fortunate enough to see a fair going on in most of the streets, a familiar feature in many of the countries of Europe-we came on here to this beautiful little village on the borders of lake Geneva.... My fingers are nearly frozen with the cold. An hour ago we had a hail storm which passed through the village and the tops of the mountains all round us are covered with snow. It is a new sensation to me to see all this with my own eyes, and to be so near them [the mountains]. My fingers are stiff and so I will have to close this letter.... Love to all the people, to all inquiring friends, high and low, and to your dear self. I am ever your affectionate cousin, " BERNICE." "VIENNA, Nov. 28, 1875. "DEAR COUSIN CORDIE: " I have been standing at the window of our hotel, the Grand, which overlooks the King Strasse-the fashionable street of Vienna,and I can no longer resist the temptation to write again (I wrote you only a week ago from Clarens) and tell you of the sights that are passing before me at this moment. It is MRS. BISHOP NxSUAt 1875. I 167 Sunday afternoon and the hour for the fashionable world of Vienna to take an airing. "The sidewalk is crowded with pedestrians of both sexes, the ladies in fur capes and muffs, the gentlemen in fur coats, little children muffled up to the chin in warm wraps, and officers without number with their swords clanging on the pavement; the gentlemen staring unblushingly at the ladies and the latter sometimes returning the compliment. "Then come the dashing equipages with coachmen in stunning livery, all as brilliant and gay as possible. It is, indeed, a sight to behold. How I do wish you were here at this moment to enjoy it with me. But I doubt whether you could endure this frightfully cold weather. The streets and the tops of the houses are covered with snow and my fingers are stiff, although there is a fire in the room. But stoves in this country are so wretched that they do not warm the rooms at all, only when you are close to them do you feel the heat in front, while your back, at the same time, is freezing. "I am writing this on the window-sill, and looking down, only about three feet from my place, on the crowds. We visited this morning with Mr. Schonberger three churches, the principal one being St. Stephen's-the 1 One of the officers of the " Donau " and at that time Hawaiian Consul in Vienna. 168 largest and finest in Vienna. There was a funeral service going on in honor of Cardinal somebody, whose name I have at this moment forgotten, who was buried three days before, and his catafalque, all covered with the arms of the deceased prelate, still remained where he had lain in state. At another church we saw a monument executed by Canova to the Archduchess Maria Christina, a most superb piece of sculpture. We went through some of the oldest streets of the city and to the courtyards of the palace. This is a most singular city; there are archways without number under the houses and you go from one street to another through these, thereby shortening your route. "But I must tell you of our journey thither from Clarens, from which I wrote you last. We made the W —s a visit of nearly six days. From there we came on to Munich, stopping one night at Zurich on the way, crossing Lake Constance in a little steamer to Lindau, and by train again to Munich. Aside from the cold, it was a pleasant journey enhanced by the acquaintance we made in the train of an Austrian lady from Neuchatel. We travelled in the same compartment all the way to Munich. She spoke English very well, and it was a great comfort to us to talk to some one in a language we understood. When near the end of the journey I asked her name which she gave me as 'Countess de Bombellas.' We 169 afterwards learned that it was a name well known in Austria. Their home is in Croatia. She gave me many hints in regard to travelling in Austria, which have been of use to us." "HOTEL DE ROMA, ROME, Dec. I3th, I875. "As you see from the date of this, it is many days since the other sheet was written. I had not another chance to write again until now. If you could only know our daily life -it is trot, trot, trot, from morning till night, through picture gallery after picture gallery,.churches, museums, etc., etc., until the whole thing is all mixed up in my mind-Titian, Rembrandt, Veronese, Rubens are one composite mass; I must confess I do not appreciate the old Masters. I much prefer modern art. There is a fine gallery of modern pictures in Munich, and I really enjoyed that. Of course there are some few paintings of the old Masters, particularly Murillo, and two or three of Titian's, which are very fineperhaps the finest in the world, but as a general thing I failed to appreciate their merits. No doubt it is owing to my want of culture. The two days following the Sunday upon which I wrote to you we devoted to sight-seeing, picture galleries, etc., Mr. Schonberger acting as our cicerone (he was exceedingly kind and attentive). On Wednesday Mr. Lahay, of the "Donau" (do you remember him?-he was the one who was 17o at Maui with Mrs. McClellan-came to see us from Pesth, and Mr. S — and ourselves hired a sleigh, and I had my first and probably last sleigh ride on that day. We drove to Lazenberg, the Emperor's summer palace, a distance of nearly ten miles from Vienna. I enjoyed every moment of it although it was bitterly cold. But we had furs and footmuffs to keep us warm. But C —, in spite of all, felt the cold keenly, as he has done ever since, and he longs for a warm climate. I know he regrets (to himself) ever having left it. It was after dark when we got back. "After dinner we went to the ballet at the new Opera House. Just fancy to yourself two hundred young girls-or thereaboutsdancing the most intricate of dances and putting themselves in the most difficult of attitudes in the most graceful manner possible, and at every new act appearing in new costumes, each and all beautiful, and you can have some idea of the ballet in Vienna. The scenery was gorgeous, particularly the last act. I have not the language in which to describe it, so will not attempt it. I forgot to tell you that the first night of our stay in Vienna, we went to the opera at the same place, and heard 'Le Prophete.' The orchestra was splendid. In two of the scenes skating on the ice and dancing were introduced. The dancers, men and women, were dressed in Polish costume, and they went I71 through the skating scene capitally. At Munich we heard Wagner's celebrated opera of Lohengrin. I did not enjoy it much. It was tedious and heavy. The scenery, however, was good. Another evening in Vienna we went to hear the celebrated Strauss band; another evening to the operetta, so you see our evenings as well as our days were much occupied. We were in Vienna just one week -the longest stoppage we have made anywhere. From there we went to Trieste, arriving at the latter place at eight o'clock. In the evening Baron Benko (he was you know the Aide de Camp 1) called to see us but we had gone to bed, as we had little sleep the evening before. Next morning he came again and said that in half an hour Admiral Von Petz 2 would call, which he did. They both gave us the most cordial welcome to Trieste, shaking hands over and over again. Afterwards we all walked over to the Admiral's house to call on his wife to save time as we were leaving for Miramar in an hour. We found the Baroness very pleasant and kind. She spoke English well. She invited us to dine with them next evening, which we accepted. We returned to the hotel and got a carriage, and Baron Benko went with us to the Chateau of Miramar-about three miles from Trieste, a most charming ' On the Austrian frigate "Donau ". 2 In command of the "Donau" which visited Honolulu in December, I869. 172 spot and full of sad associations of the illfated Maximilian of Mexico." "HOTEL VITTORIA, Naples, Dec. 22. "I hardly know, dear cousin, what to say. Here it is, nearly a month since this letter was begun and we have had no time ('the same old story,' I think I hear you saying) in which to finish it. It is nevertheless true. We fly from place to place with the rapidity of a railway train, so that I am quite used up in mind as well as body. However, I will make no apologies, but will try and finish this letter and mail it before we leave for Rome. You will like to know, I dare say, how it has fared with us since we left Trieste, where I think I left off with the second date of my letter. Well-we left the latter place with many regrets, for we were received so warmly, not only by our friends, but also by friends of our friends. As C — remarked to me afterwards: " 'Trieste was a cold place, but it contained warm hearts.' " We stopped in Rome one day to rest and the next day came on to Naples, where we have been, now, a week. To-morrow we return to Rome where we intend to remain a few weeks. We enjoy being here very much. The climate is mild, like our own, but it is not so hot. We have visited the Royal palaces and one or two churches, spent one day in Pompeii, a place full of interest,-sad interest. I73 Yesterday we took an excursion-besides chaperoning a party of young ladies-to the ancient city of Baia where Paul landed on his arrival in Italy. On the way we stopped at Pozzuoli to see an ancient amphitheatre in pretty good state of preservation and the temple of Serapis. At Baia is the temple of Venus and that of Mercury, both in the same style of architecture-round, with a dome, and in a ruined state. The drive out was lovely; the road was striking, with the bay all the way. From Pozzuoli to Baia the left side of the road was strewn with the ruins of ancient cities and villas, caused by earthquakes. We received some home letters last evening-three from you 22nd Oct. and i th of Nov. and one from Willie-also one from Ida. Please tell her I will write her from Rome, and tell her about meeting her friends.... I will inclose some orange seeds-it is a variety that we do not have, a native of China, I believe. They call it the 'Mandarin.' I would take some home but they will not grow if kept too long.... Will you please thank Mr. Ballieu for the delicate little gift he sent me. How kind of him to think so long before of my birthday. I will write him a note of thanks by and by. How many deaths have occurred since we have been away. And poor dear Figaro, alas! he is gone. I feel quite bad, and am glad that I was not there when he died.... A merry Christmas and a happy New Year, I74 although both will be long past when this reaches you. Yes, I am forty-four. Oh dear, how old! A bushel of love to you both, " Yours ever, "BERNICE." CHAPTER XX CORRESPONDENCE: PRESENTATION TO POPE PIUS IX. "GENOA, Feb. 13th, 1876. "MY DEAR COUSINS: "You don't know how delighted we were when we received, a few days ago, your letter of December 22nd and also one little note from Miss B — in which she writes most enthusiastically of home. I am very glad she was so pleased. I will write her also by this opportunity if I have time; if not, very soon. My only regret is that we are not there, at present, to enjoy with you their visit. Perhaps she may be persuaded to come again after their return from Europe... We were in Florence only two weeks, and as the W —s [Mr. and Mrs. C. A. Williams] did not arrive, we came on here to Genoa. We half regret leaving Florence so soon, as it is frightfully cold here, altho' we were told that it was warmer than there. The first day after we came it snowed and must have snowed a good deal before that, for the tops of the mountains were covered thick. It is now, however, nearly all melted, but it 175 176 continues to be cold. This is a quaint old city, more so than Edinburgh which I thought the oddest of all places, but this beats that. It is built on the slope of the mountain and rises directly from the sea, the houses very close together and many stories high. The streets-or most of them-particularly in the oldest part-are extremely narrow, as wide as our verandahs, and some not so wide. You wind your way through this labyrinth, hither and thither, up and down, jostling sailors, fishermen, and what not. In front of the town along the quay is a high wall with arcades on the top of which is a fine promenade built of white marble. This wall separates the harbor from the houses. Underneath these houses (most of them six stories in height) is an open arcade, where you meet crowds of people of all ranks, and the other half, or back part, is cut up into little shops,-bakers', eating houses, drygoods stores, tin-smiths, harness makers, grocers, etc., without end. From early morning till late at night this part of the town is as lively and busy as you can imagine, and our hotel-the 'Hotel de France'-is right over one of these places. Day before yesterday we went to the church of S. Maria di Carignano, situated on one of the highest points at the extremity of the city, for the purpose of making the ascent to the dome,the view from which is very magnificent-of the harbor, fortifications, and extending over I77 the city, to the neighboring mountains bristling with forts, and on the opposite side the blue Mediterranean. "Yesterday we went into the Church of the Annunziata, the most sumptuous church in Genoa, and one of the few [of that type] we have seen in our travels. The interior is all of marble, two kinds, white and red, and the vaulting roof and dome are richly decorated with gilding and fresco. The outside is very plain and, they say, in an unfinished state. "To-morrow we go to try the railway of the Villa Pallavicini (one of the sights to Genoa-about eight miles distant) with a Mr. Kelly, a gentleman connected with one of the banks here and who is doing the civility for his friend, Signor Luchi, the Hawaiian Consul, who does not know a word of English. He is our only Consul in Italy. " We have been very fortunate in all the places we have been to meet with people who were very kind to us. I mean those of the country, not strangers and foreigners, like ourselves. "In Naples we made the acquaintance of the Countess Suchtelan and her daughters, to whom we brought letters from the Von Petz' in Trieste. At Rome we became acquainted with the Marquise de Campenari, a friend of the Suchtelans, and at her house, where we went to tea two or three times and 178 spent the evening, we met some of the first people of Rome. " The Marquise did not entertain as she had just lost her onlydaughter about three months before and her cousin, the Princess Oblinsky, only the week before we arrived. "Poor woman! She was in great grief but she tried to be cheerful; I could see that. She has two sons, one in the army and the other at a naval school here in Genoa. The oldest one was at home on a visit one evening while we were there and I never saw such a superb young man in my life. He was a perfect Apollo.... We also became acquainted with another Roman family, of the middle class. One of the members is a banker, and a little while ago he was so fortunate as to make or, rather, to win o,o000 lire in a lottery. Thereupon he gave a grand dinner to about sixty or seventy of his friends. We were fortunate enough to be invited and I was very glad of the opportunity to mix in purely Italian society. I like them exceedingly. They are so simple-hearted and goodnatured. They remind me of our own people, and that is why, no doubt, they have won my heart. "Socially, Rome, this winter, has been very dull, owing, they told me, to the division in families in regard to the present government and the Pope. The very brightest 1 King Victor Emmanuel II. at this time was upon the throne of Italy. I79 of the Roman nobility side very naturally with the papal party, while the rest, with the common people, are for the King, and so long as Rome is under his rule they, the nobles, will not entertain. I think this will all wear away. I was surprised to find how little the Pope is liked, in this, the very centre of Catholicism. The Italians, themselves, say that he is an enemy of Italy. But I '11 not bore you longer about Italian politics. "Just before we left Rome we learned that Mme. Ristori had returned from her tour around the world, and had made inquiries about us, but as we were to leave the next day we did not send her word of our whereabouts, for which we were sorry. "At Florence we saw the Davies'-was at their house twice-to a reception and an evening party.. By the bye, did I write you about our being presented to the Pope? Well, we sent in our request to that effect as soon as we arrived in Rome, through our friend, the Marquise de Campenari, who kindly offered her services. After a week or so the permit came and we presented ourselves with about sixty or seventy others on the day appointed. After ascending about a dozen staircases, passing soldiers dressed in striped uniforms of all colors of the rainbow-we were ushered into the ante-chamber where we laid aside our outside wraps, and took off our gloves, for this is one of the i Pope Pius IX. i8o prescribed customs; another is, that ladies appear in black with veils over their heads, gentlemen in evening costume, white neckties, etc., written, or, I ought to say printed, on the permit. We were ushered into another apartment called the Loggia by a servant in splendid livery of crimson silk with long hanging sleeves and crimson stockings. "After an hour later than that specified in the note, the Pope finally entered, preceded by several priests. We all went down on our knees and as he came tottering by he passed in front of us and gave his hand to each one to be kissed. C --- merely held it, I bent my forehead over it so his blessing is on my head, not on my lips. For I could not make up my mind to kiss his hand. A Yankee lady-a strict Presbyterian, who knelt a little distance from me, took his hand, hesitated a moment, evidently not wishing to kiss it, and dropped it. Her friend, who was kneeling by her side, thought it her duty to help her out of the dilemma. She took the old Pope's hand and carried it to her friend's lips to be kissed but the Connecticut lady, who was too much of a Protestant to do that, moved her head back and shook it, her face red as a lobster. At this moment I had to look away, I was so embarrassed. I heard the old Pope murmur something in French but all I understood was the word 'suspicien.' Of course the whole performance lasted but a moment, i8I but to the poor lady (I told her afterwards she was a heroine) no doubt it seemed an age. As we went out of the audience room I asked her how it ended-whether afterwards, she kissed His Holiness' hand. She said: " 'No indeed! I could not do it' - this with emphasis. "But it is getting late. I have spent nearly the whole of this Sunday writing letters, while C — has been to church. I will leave this letter open for a day or two in the hope of reporting 'letters received,' in the meantime." "Wednesday, i6. "No letters from home yet. Yesterday we decided to start for Milan and Turin today,-returning here again in a week to go on to Nice, but a letter came from Mr. Williams saying they would be here Thursday or Friday of this week, and would like to meet us again. So we will not go, but hope to do so after they leave for the South. We are anxious to be at Nice for the carnival. I wish we were bound southward on account of the cold. C — has been suffering all the winter. I have borne it well, as I knew I should, although I have had very bad colds at sundry times. Christmas I was ill in bed, and for three days with rheumatic affection in the head, so I had anything but a 'Merry Christmas.' I thank you all for keeping my 182 birth-day. Please tell Mr. Ballieu I will write him from Paris, and will try and see his children. My best love to Miss B — and the young ladies, to your good husband, to all the people and to all inquiring friends, and with much love to your dear self. " Ever your affectionate cousin, " BERNICE." CHAPTER XXI CORRESPONDENCE: PRESENTATION TO QUEEN VICTORIA. "HOTEL CHAUVAIN [NICE], March 9, 1876. "DEAR COUSIN CORDIE: " Here we are once more, in a warm climate, much to C —'s delight. It is not as warm as it is with us, but milder than where we have been during the winter. We have been here a little over a fortnight, enjoying the rest from incessant sight-seeing,... as well as the warmth and sunshine. Just now, however, it is very dusty; no rain has fallen here for two months, and the winds are high, so it is not at all agreeable, either to walk or drive out. The Nice season was over when we came, but many lingered along for the carnival, which has come and gone. C — sent you the other day a newspaper published here which gave an account of it. I will not bore you with my description, as it will not compare favorably with that. You may think that I now have plenty of leisure-time to write, read, sew, etc., but the fact is, that although it is Lent and there are no ruins of old churches to be visited hereabouts, there 183 184 is always something going on that we wish to see, so that we go out somewhere nearly every day. There is a lovely band that plays every afternoon in the Indian palace at which I am a constant attendant, whenever it is pleasant. "The crowds of people are another attraction; ladies in fine toilettes with long trains trailing along the ground kicking up the dust; some, of course, in shabby clothes; male exquisites with flowers in buttonholes, old dowagers in paint and powder-male ditto, nurses and children, invalids hobbling about, or being drawn in perambulators, all make up a scene novel and gay, as is generally to be found at these places of fashionable resort. And this reminds me, that about four days ago, I was as usual in the garden listening to the music when I saw a lady standing about two yards from me, looking at me now and then. I thought she was like some one I had known, and before I could think who she was, she was at my side grasping my hand, with tears in her eyes. It was Mrs. Shipley, with her little boy, a fine manly fellow. I was truly glad to see her, poor woman. Of course I expressed my surprise to see her here in Europe, not having heard that she was abroad. She told me how long she had been here, and that she was in Florence when we were there, and came to the hotel Du Roi to see us, but we had gone. She is stopping at the Grand, two blocks from here. She is looking very well and rather stout. She asked many questions about Honolulu.... " "Saturday, i. "Don't be shocked, dear Cordie, if I tell you where we went yesterday. It was to Monte Carlo-a place you know where gambling is legalized, since Baden and Homburg are tabu. It is in the principality of Monaco, a little independent State about as big as the district of Ewa, perhaps not so large, and the man who has leased the place pays the prince $40,000 a year, pays all the taxes of the liliputian kingdom, or, rather, princedom, and lights the city with gas, all free. So you may imagine what a profitable business it is to keep gambling tables, to do all that. Aside from the desire to see how the thing is done, the place itself is worth visiting. It is considered the most beautiful spot in Europe, and everything has been done to make it attractive and alluring. Every day hundreds of people go there from here (Nice), the distance being half an hour by rail, returning late at night. "Yesterday was our second visit there, and both times we went with a party-an Irish gentleman and his two daughters whose acquaintance we have made in the hotel. They are very nice and we like them exceedingly. The oldest of the two is a young widow, the younger an invalid, very pretty. I86 A cousin of theirs-a Mr. McCarthy, and another gentleman, a friend of the McC's named Hewitt, went with us, both times, and, knowing the ins and outs of the place, we were enabled to enjoy our visit very much. "There are two rooms in the Casino devoted to play, with two tables in one and three in the other-two of these for the game of trente et quarante and the other for roulette. At the former heavy play is generally carried on, the sums staked from one to twenty thousand francs, or more; at the roulette table from five to eighty francs. In front of the dealers and croupiers are piles of gold and five franc pieces, and around the tables are seated the players; old women and old men, bald-headed and toothless, some of them, and the young of both sexes, all intent upon the game as if their very life depended upon it. I was generally more interested in watching the countenances of the players than in the play, the earnest, rapt expression of some, the stoical independence of others, as they lost or won. "Many stories were told us of the large sums that had been lost since the first of January-the largest loser being the young Duke of Montrose-f.49,ooo. Just think of it! Is it not dreadful? One of the young gentlemen of our party 'tried his luck' as he called it, yesterday. I was standing by his side to see him play. He commenced with eight francs, and in ten minutes he had I87 made a hundred francs. I advised him to stop, as he might lose it all if he continued.... At six o'clock the play ceases for a while, everybody going to the Hotel de Paris near by to the table d'h6te, where you get a very nice dinner for six francs, wine included. "There must have been eight hundred people who dined there yesterday, in different parts of the house. After dinner the play is resumed. In another room concerts are held twice a day, in the afternoon and evening, and if one is tired of looking at the play, or engaging in it, he can step into the next room, and for nothing, hear the most delicious music possible. Such are the fascinations to allure poor, weak human nature. No wonder many are caught in the snare! "One of the gentlemen of our party told me (he never gambles) that since he had been in Nice, now three months, four persons have committed suicide from loss at play, and the friends of one of these still went on playing as unconcerned as if nothing had happened. Is it not shocking? I will not relate any more dreadful stories, dear Cordie, for, no doubt, you are sufficiently shocked with me for being there, let alone relating other people's misdeeds-our only excuse being, curiosity. "I think my last letter was written to you from Florence, where we stayed a little over a fortnight. Then we came on to Genoa, 188 thence here, stopping a day and night in San Remo, where we hired a vetturino's carriage and four horses to bring us to Nice by the Corniche road through most lovely scenery. The road, which was splendid, runs along far up the mountain side, most of the way passing villages, plantations of olives and lemon trees, and round bold promontories surmounted by ruined castles, then descending along the seashore-the beautiful Mediterranean lying calm and peaceful and intensely blue. Then the road again gradually ascends, commanding a magnificent view of the coast before and behind you, with now and again a sight of the railway train as it emerges from and plunges into innumerable tunnels. For you must know, that the railway line, after leaving Pisa, runs through a succession of tunnels all the way to Nice. For this reason, many people drive from Genoa so as to have the view of the Riviera di Ponente, instead of going by rail. I have not done justice to this, the most picturesque part of Italy. Would that I had the power! " We intend to leave here next Friday for Milan and Turin. We shall not be long at these places, as I am anxious to be in Paris, and would have been there now but for the accounts we hear of the bad weather they have had there lately." " Wednesday, 15. "I have kept this letter open for a few I89 days, thinking that home letters might come in the meantime, and so they have. They arrived from London two hours ago. I received seven; five from H-, two from N Y. Bernice has improved very much in writing and composition and Mrs. Williams writes that she has improved, also, in every way. B — says she received the gold and silver medals for drawing, at the last examination. We are delighted to hear such accounts of the child. I long to see her. Your letter-the last date was February 4-. Thank you ever so much for it.... I am very glad, indeed, that you have enjoyed so heartily the visit of your friend and the young ladies. I shall see them, I hope, in New York. Oh dear Cordie, I hope you and my other friends will forgive me if I say that I am not yet ready to go home. Of course I wish to see you all again, but this European life is so charming that I wish it could be prolonged indefinitely. You asked when we are coming. I presume we shall be leaving London about the middle of June, or, possibly, later. C — wishes to take a run to Boston to see the Austins-then to Philadelphia for the Centennial, and so, home. It is probable that we shall go in August, or perhaps in the September steamer. When we are in New York I will write you more definitely in regard to it. "And now I must close this long letter, although I have not written the half that I I90 wished to say. Perhaps it is better so, else I won't have anything to relate when I come back; I must really stop, so good-bye for the present, with love to yourself and William and to Miss B — and the young ladies, in which C — joins me. Aloha nui to all the people and to all inquiring friends, "Your attached cousin, "BERNICE." "7 SACKVILLE ST., LONDON, May 8, 1876. "DEAR COUSIN CORDIE: "So much has happened since I wrote you from Nice that I am well-nigh in despair as to how and where to begin. But before I go on (I can't promise to write a long letter, as we have so little time to ourselves and have already plunged into the dissipation of the London season), let me tell you that we received all of your letters,-the last dated March 3Ist. When you see their Majesties [King Kalakaua and Kapiolani] and Mrs. Cartwright and Mrs. Bush, please give them my love and say that I have received their letters and I will write as soon as I can; if not from here, perhaps from New York. "After leaving Nice we went to Milan and Turin. The morning we arrived in the latter city whom should we meet on the platform but the W —s just returning north from Italy. We were glad to meet again. Mr. W — secured a whole compartment for us I9I to ourselves, and we made the trip together to Culoz, where we parted, they going to Genoa and we to Paris by Lyons.... "Well, we were in Paris six weeks and I never worked so hard in my life as I did there, not only in trying to have some clothes made but in shopping, and, at the same time, sightseeing. We made up a box, or rather two, to send you by Panama via San Francisco, which I hope you will get before we come. In it is your dress and other things too numerous to mention. I have marked with your name those things intended for you. There is a box for Mrs. C —, and a little one for Mrs. J-. Will you please give them to them. The rest will you put away until we come?" Mr. and Mrs. Bishop were greatly indebted to Mr. Wodehouse, who was for many years British Commissioner, and afterwards Consul-General, for letters of introduction to friends in England. They were also given letters by others from whom such attention was of great benefit. In the following letter giving a brief account of her presentation at court, the cordiality of Queen Victoria was no doubt partly due to the generous reception given the Duke of Edinburgh upon his visit to Honolulu I92 July 21, I869. At that time Mr. and Mrs. Bishop assisted in the entertainments given in his honor. "Monday, May 5. "It seems as if I am fated never to finish a letter at one sitting but will begin at once the most important news connected with ourselves. Well, we have been presented at Court. It came off on Friday, the I2th. I have not much time in which to write you the particulars. You will have to wait until I return and I will then show you my dresstrain and all. I was nervous at first, but soon got over it. The Duke of Edinburgh presented C- and the Marchioness of Salisbury me. As my name was announced by the Lord Chamberlain, the Queen, much to my surprise, came forward and bowed with a kind smile of recognition, which, of course, pleased me, very much. I bowed next to the Princess of Wales and to others of the Royal family, and when I was opposite the Duke of Edinburgh he extended his hand to shake hands with me, and he did the same with C —, who was behind me. We then, with the rest, went to the outer rooms and did not see the Royal family again. "The rooms were soon filled by the ladies as they came out, and we stood and watched the elegantly dressed company-ladies and gentlemen-as they went to and fro. And such sights! Such toilettes and display of 193 jewels-coronets, diamonds, pearls, and all other precious stones, satins, silks, velvets, and brocades, of all shades and colors, with feathers, flowers, and laces. It was a sight I never expect to see again. It was, I have been told, the most brilliant drawing-room of the season,-and the last. "My dress, I dare say you would like to know, was silk in two shades of rose colorlight and dark. The dress was made in Paris, but the train, which was three and three quarters of a yard long, and the low bodice I had made here for the occasion. I had plumes the color of my dress, flowers and lappets in my hair and I flatter myself that I looked almost as well as some of them. "C was dressed in an ex-Minister's uniform-sword, cocked hat with a red ribbon, and as I never before saw him in a uniform, he looked funny enough. But he had to wear it, or else go in silk breeches. "Yesterday afternoon, in company with our friend, the Colonel,1 we took tea with the Marchioness of Ely, one of the ladies-inwaiting at Buckingham Palace. The other day we went to a garden party at a Mrs. Lowther's in Kensington Gore. It was a beautiful place, with a fine garden at the back of the house. To-day we went with the Colonel to Grosvenor House to see the paint' Colonel, the Honorable William Fielding, who was in many ways exceedingly kind and helpful to Mr. and Mrs. Bishop. 13 194 ings. It is the Duke of Westminster's fine collection. Another time we are to go again to Buckingham Palace to see the pictures there, as we did not have time yesterday. There is so much to tell you that I cannot well do it by letter and you will have to wait until I can get home.... I beg you will not move away from the house. It is large enough to hold us together for some time after we get back. And there will then be time enough I think to see to a house for yourselves. "Love to W- and all friends,-the people and everybody that may inquire for us, and with love to you and the ladies-if they are still with you-I am "Ever your affectionate cousin, "BERNICE." "NEW YORK, Aug. 4th, 1876. ' MY DEAR CORDIE: "This is probably our last chance to write home before we come in propria persona, on the Sept. steamer. We have been visiting about a good deal since our return to this country and in spite of the extremely hot weather. Oh dear! Such weather I never felt in my life, and I truly think if we had remained in the city a little while longer I should have succumbed under it. They say such intensely hot weather has not been known for eighty-four years. Well, as every I95 thing nowadays is called 'Centennial' I suppose the temperature may be called 'Centennial heat.' C — took a run to Washington and back again, and then we started for the north, Saratoga and Warrenburg [Mr. Bishop's home for a number of years], where we had a most delightful visit with Miss B — and the young ladies. We went out on the lake once, and should have taken several excursions had it been at all tolerable, but it was pleasanter indoors than out. From there we spent a night and one part of a day at Glenn's Falls and two days at Fort Edward with the Bradleys. Then we went on to Boston via Vermont and New Hampshire-had a pleasant visit there and also at the Isles of Shoals, with the Austins and Dicksons. We saw hosts of Island friends,-but more of this when we see you. "Bernice was with us all the time and the journey has done her good. We came back to New York ten days ago and to-night we go on'to Stamford to spend to-morrow-Sunday. "Monday A. M. We return here to go on to Philadelphia to be absent a week or two, then back again to New York, taking our final departure from there.... We shall leave Bernice with our friends when we go to the Centennial and she will go with them for a month at Woodstock in New Hampshire.... In a few weeks more we hope to be with you. Do not move away. There I96 will be time enough to do that after we return. "Aloha nui to all. With love to yourself and your good husband, "Your affectionate cousin, "B. B." a r r: F 6: KEOUA HALE. CHAPTER XXII MISCELLANEOUS LETTERS. THE following letter was written to her cousin, at that time visiting relatives in New York, accompanied by her husband, whose brother was Consul General for Hawaii in that city. "HALEAKALA, Jan. I4, 1878. MY DEAR COUSIN CORDIE: "Letter writing time has come round once more (it comes round pretty often, but receiving time not often enough). I am, as usual, in the midst of it, but luckily have only four to write this time-the last two mails taking from this house enough to fill a whole mail bag, I am quite sure. Well, your letters were received by the last steamer which made our hearts glad; also the package of cards in care of C. Judd-for all of which we thank you very much. Those belonging to friends I sent to them. "Did you knit the purse yourself? It is 197 I98 quite unique. I should not have known how to open it, had I not seen one like it not long ago. Who ever invented it, I should like to know? The invitation for the coronation for the good people of Hawaii nei came out yesterday. It is very prettily and tastefully gotten up, I think.... The coronation paraphernalia is here, brought by the 'Lord Chamberlain' in fourteen trunks, so the story goes. The Queen's dress-perhaps one of them-of lace bought in Brussels, cost $5000. Of course no vulgar eye has seen all this gorgeousness!... I have had the Chinaman clean up your garden a little bit. The passion vine makai your house, which you cut down, I am sorry to tell you is make. I fancied your Christian student did not water it in a conscientious manner. However, I have planted some more there and they are doing well.... I wish to goodness I were in New York, now. I long to hear the 'divine Patti' again. I envy you your enjoyment of music, etc." The following, addressed to her cousin, who was still in the United States, relates to Mr. G. Bradley Bishop, a nephew of Mr. Charles R. Bishop, who came out to Honolulu to engage in business and who died at "Haleakala," Dec. 4, 1882. He was a brother of Mr. E. F. Bishop, now residing in Honolulu. 199 "HALEAKALA, I9th of Nov., 1882. "MY DEAR COUSIN CORDIE: "The 'Luiza' arrived two days ago bringing letters from you both, written in Bangor. It brought to my mind our visit there when dear Mrs. Allen was living. I quite envied you travelling about. You both deserve it after so much sickness and anxiety and confinement. I do hope you will both return with health restored, looking young and vigorous for another dozen years of work and drudgery. "I have had my hands pretty full also, of late, not exactly of work but what is worsecare and anxiety. I no sooner returned home after four weeks' nursing of my cousin, than Bradley became ill.... Thank Willie for the book he sent me by the last mail; I shall read it with great interest. I had seen a notice of it some little time ago-in Scribner's, I think." "HONOLULU, I Ith Dec., 1882. "DEAR COUSIN CORDIE: " My last letter to you will, I think, prepare you for the sad news which I now write you of our dear boy-Bradley's death. He died a week ago Monday the 4th inst., of rapid consumption, easily and peacefully, but quite conscious for some hours before the end. I have just written his mother and have given 200 her as full [an] account as I could of his illness and last moments. I will copy a portion from my letter to her. 'The day beforeSunday-we thought he was dying, so Charles sent for Rev. Mr. McIntosh, the Episcopal clergyman, to come and see him. He came and administered the sacrament but before he was quite through he sank into unconsciousness. After awhile he revived and I gave him some nourishment and by afternoon he rallied. When the doctor came (we had Dr. Trousseau) he seemed brighter, and answered all the questions that were asked him, but by ii o'clock he positively refused to take anything. After that he sank rapidly and was conscious no more.' Poor lad! It was hard to see one so young, so good, so pure in his life, with every prospect of usefulness before him called away so soon. But God orders all things for the best and we can only say, 'Thy will be done.' He was not afraid to die, but he clung to life and was so anxious to live that he might be of use to his mother while she lived. Fanny will receive many sympathizing letters from friends here. Mr. Damon [Father Damon] is writing, remembering the loss of his son of the same age as Bradley. He is full of sympathy for poor Fanny. It will be a great comfort to her to know in what estimation her son was held in this place. His young friends and companions, and some of the older people who were acquainted with 201 him feel deeply his death, and those who did not know him personally, respected and admired his character. We had the funeral services at the house, and both there and at the grave they were solemn and impressive." Judge E. H. Allen, to whom Mrs. Bishop refers in the following letter, was the Minister Plenipotentiary from Hawaii to the United States, and, by reason of his prolonged term of office, was dean of the diplomatic corps. It was a part of his official duty, as the senior member of that body, to make the presentations to the President at the official receptions held at the White House. He performed his usual duties on New Year's day, 1883. After the reception he retired to the cloak room and suddenly complained of being ill. He sat down upon a sofa, his head sank forward, and with a sigh he expired. Judge Allen was then seventy-nine years of age. He had been a true friend to the Hawaiian people, having earned their confidence by years of efficient and disinterested service. His death was deeply felt in Washington, where he had also won the esteem of all who knew him. "HALEAKALA, Feb. I, 1883. "We received the shocking news of the 202 death of our dear friend Judge Allen, by the Jan. steamer. It was indeed a shock, but we could not but admire when we thought what a grand death his was-to die at his post, of all places to die at the White House. It was a fitting death, but how sad for his children to be bereaved of an affectionate father; and for our poor little nation which cannot afford to lose such a faithful servant. But Providence directs things for the best and we can only submit to God's will. Please give my sincere sympathy to the other members of the family in their great sorrow, and more especially to your good husband. How fortunate he was to be in America, and that he had seen him before his end. This is a typically rainy day-one of the slow, steady, old-fashioned rains, which we seldom have now-a-days. Ever since last night about nine o'clock it has been a steady downpour all the night long, and from present appearances it does n't look as if it would cease for a week to come.. "The Suez has at last reached home after a delay of a month which has thrown our whole community-indeed, I might say the whole islands-into a state of alarm and anxiety about friends-the Damons and Athertons and Carrie B- and her children and a host of others we know were on board.... But, our letters, oh how impatient we were to get them! By the way, there were many coronation dresses on board that un 203 fortunate Suez, and although she arrived Thursday the 8th I do not think any of them have yet been received by their owners, and they will be too late for to-morrow, but I presume they will come in for the ball, luau, and dinner." Upon this point she had previously written (Nov. 29, 1882): "I had several samples of brocades and satins sent me from The City of Paris to show to my friends for the coronation and I proceeded to pass them round. Keelikolani [the Princess Ruth] is the only one who wishes to have dresses from them. She wanted five but I told her two were enoughand two too many. These goods average from ten and a half to thirteen yards, the prices varying from $120 to $150 a dress, according to the quality and style. They have just been imported from Paris. Some of them look as if they were intended for furniture covering." CHAPTER XXIII FINAL EVENTS. IN addition to Haleakala, the residence Mrs. Bishop inherited from Paki, for which she had a peculiar affection, she had other valuable estates, as was usual with the alii, which she visited frequently, sometimes remaining for weeks. One of these was a beautiful place, "Heeia," on the windward side of Oahu, a feature of which was its extensive fish-pond well stocked with mullet. Here she was accustomed to invite parties of her friends, entertaining them in the delightfully informal manner in which she herself took such pleasure. The seaside villa at Waikiki, now converted into a hotel, was also a favorite residence, with its beautiful cocoanut grove, its smooth sand beach, and good bathing. In the same neighborhood were the seaside villas of the Princess Likelike, "Ainahau," surrounded by magnificent gardens, still cared for by her husband, Governor A. S. Cleghorn; and that of her cousin Lydia, the ex-Queen Liliuokalani. 204 VA I 0 i15 /( 205 In the spring of 1883, her cousin the Princess Ruth Keelikolani built a handsome residence, " Keoua Hale," on Emma Street which was also surrounded by extensive, well-kept gardens, now in use as a high school. It was in the French style of architecture with Mansard roof, broad lanais, from which lofty flights of steps led down into the gardens, and a large drawing-room upon the ceiling of which was emblazoned the Hawaiian coat of arms. The completion of the house was the occasion of elaborate festivities,-a formal house-warming, ball, and luau, to which all the white population of Honolulu, eligible to such an honor, were asked, with the entire court and many good Hawaiian families not included in the court circle. In the Quadrille of Honor at the ball the Princess Ruth danced with the King, wearing a dress of rich yellow brocade with a train the prescribed three yards and a half in length. Mrs. Bishop also took part in the quadrille, enjoying it thoroughly, laughing heartily as her cousin and the King went through the intricate figures, the Princess being a woman of great size and weight. Keelikolani had much of the spirit of her Kamehameha ancestors, with all their gener 206 osity, and always resented any lack of respect due her race and her rank. This was shown once during the house-warming festivities, and with good cause. The luau had been prepared, native fashion, and was served in the grounds near where now stands a towering monkey-bread tree. The feast was spread upon the flowergarlanded mats of fern, and the servants stood in their places, awaiting the arrival of the hostess, the King and his suite. When they came, the Princess found a party of illbred foreigners already seated, having failed to show their hostess the respect to which she was entitled. When she saw them she was very indignant and insisted upon returning to the house but was finally induced to overlook the incivility, the offenders very properly taking their leave. Almost immediately after these events the Princess Ruth became very ill and was ordered by her physicians to Kailua on Hawaii. She did not benefit by the change, living but a short time. Mrs. Bishop was with her at the time of her death. Her remains were brought back to Honolulu and lay in state in the great drawing-room at "Keoua Hale" for three weeks, during which all the native marks of 207 respect accorded to chiefs of high rank were observed. A reference has been made to the desire of Kamehameha V. that Mrs. Bishop should succeed him as sovereign, which lay within his rights under old Hawaiian law. In I898 the Hawaiian Historical Society published two important letters, one by Stephen H. Phillips, Attorney-General throughout the reign of Kamehameha V., and the other, a much more detailed statement which Mr. Phillips corroborated, by the late Gov. J. O. Dominis, husband of the ex-Queen Liliuokalani. The letter of Governor Dominis is as follows: "HONOLULU, January 7, I873. "MY DEAR SIR: " So many unfounded rumors and misrepresentations have been circulated since the death of his late majesty, Kamehameha V., in relation to his last expressed wishes, I feel it my duty, not only to the living, but to the memory of the departed, to furnish you, in a written form, a statement of what occurred on the morning of the i th of December (1872) last. " Before daybreak my wife and myself were sent for to the palace. On arriving thereat 208 we found that the King was in a very critical state. Dr. Hutchinson and Dr. Trousseau were in attendance. The latter informed me there was no hope for the King's recovery. Shortly after my arrival the King was in a state to be informed of the condition he was in, and Dr. Hutchinson took the task upon himself and asked him if he had any final arrangements to make. At first the King would give no heed to the Doctor, but upon being urged he consented to have a will drawn up, and I was called, at his request, to put in writing his last wishes. I therefore stationed myself beside the bed and commenced writing his wishes, but they merely related to a few dispositions of money and real estate. At this time he was repeatedly urged to name his successor, but did not then. Shortly after I commenced writing, Mr. Phillips, the Attorney-General, came in and was beside me most of the time the King was talking. After a time the King became fatigued and expressed a desire to rest, when Mr. Phillips urged him very strongly to name his successor, but he replied rather sharply that 'he wanted time to consider so important a subject and that he had been taken by surprise at the statement of the physicians, and was naturally nervous and under a great state of excitement.' The King then told me to go and get my breakfast and when I returned that he and I would 'sit down quietly by ourselves and arrange 209 all these matters'-his exact words. I went on the veranda, and in a few minutes was called. Mrs. Bishop was seated on the side of the King's bed; my wife, Judge Kamakau, and Mr. Prendergast were standing at the head. Mrs. Brickwood and Kamaipuupaa were opposite Mrs. Bishop; Mr. Phillips stood in the mauka door near to the bed, and I stood next to Mrs. Bishop. I am thus particular in placing the different persons to show who were in a position to hear the last wishes expressed by the King. Beside those mentioned there was no person in the room near enough to the King to understand his words except Governor Nahaolelua, whom the King had summoned, and who was kneeling beside the bed at the King's head in front of me and next to Mrs. Bishop. "The King spoke to Nahaolelua in Hawaiian, but the sound of his voice was so indistinct that I could not understand what he said. The Governor's reply I understood and by it was assured that the King had asked him to name his successor which he declined doing, saying that they were all his aliis. After this the King addressed Mrs. Bishop and said: 'I wish you to take my place, to be my successor.' She replied: 'No, no, not me; don't think of me, I do not need it.' The King then said: "' What makes this room so dark?' and looking towards the makai door said: I3 210 "'What are all those people doing in there?' "Lunalilo, Kalakaua, Kahanu, Makalena, Pratt, Hoffman, and perhaps some others, whom I do not now remember, were standing in the room. I motioned them to go out, and Mrs. Bishop told them to go, and they went out. The King then continued: "'I do not wish you to think that I do this from motives of friendship, but I think it best for my people and the nation.' She again said: "'Oh, no, do not think of me; there are others; there is your sister, it is hers by right.' The King replied: "'She is not fitted for the position.' "'But,' Mrs. Bishop said, 'we will all help her; I, my husband, and your Ministers; we will all kokua her and advise her.' "The King replied: 'No, she would not answer.' "Mrs. Bishop then said: 'There is the Queen, Emma; she has been a Queen once, and is therefore fitted for the position.' "The King replied: 'That she was merely Queen by courtesy, having been the wife of a King.' The King wishing at this time to get off the bed, we all left the room, and after that he never alluded to the subject of a successor or expressed any further wishes. "We all went to breakfast; and after breakfast, not feeling any immediate danger, most of the gentlemen went to the 211 Chamberlain's house, when, at about halfpast nine, the physicians were sent for in haste, and we returned to the King's chamber and remained there until his death, which took place at about twenty minutes of ten A.M. " As mentioned before the only persons who were near enough to hear the conversation which took place between the King and Mrs. Bishop were Mr. Phillips, my wife, Judge Karnakau, Colonel Prendergast, Mrs. Brickwood, Kamaipuupaa and Governor Nahaolelua and myself-Governor Nahaolelua and Kamaipuupaa could not have understood it, the entire conversation having been carried on in the English language. The Queen and Mrs. Pratt were sitting together some distance from the bed and could not possibly have understood what the King said, for, at times, when near to him, without giving close attention, it was difficult to understand him, his speech was so indistinct. The Governess of Hawaii was seated on the floor, some distance from the bed, on the makai side. "The foregoing is a correct statement, so far as my best remembrances serve me, of what occurred in the last hours of his late Majesty, and is most respectfully submitted to, if possible, refute the many false representations which have been set afloat in reference to his last wishes, and more particularly as a matter of jus 212 tice to Mrs. Bishop and the memory of the departed. "I remain yours truly, "JNO. O. DOMINIS." "Certified to be a correct copy of the original letter. "A. C. LOVEKIN, "for Trustees B. P. Bishop Estate. "HONOLULU, August 5, 1898." CHAPTER XXIV LAST LETTERS. MISS Barnes, to whom the following refers, was a cultured Englishwoman, governess of the Princess Kaiulani. To Miss Hines (Mrs. E. Kopke) "HONOLULU, March 7, 1884. " MY DEAR MISS HINES: " It is with a heavy heart that I write to tell you and your sister that your cousin is dead. She died this morning at a little before nine o'clock. You may not, perhaps, be utterly unprepared for this sad news, as I wrote you the other day of her severe illness. Nevertheless, you will be greatly shocked, I know,-as much as we are-when you hear that the end has really come. I feel so much for you and sympathize with you in this great grief which has come, not only to you, but to us all, especially our dear Kaiulani whose loss she cannot, as yet, appreciate, though she feels sad enough. She said to Helen this morning: 213 214 "'Oh my dear auntie, why did they take her away from me? Tell them to bring her back, and take me.' Poor child! She cannot, I fear, find such another dear, kind, tender friend and governess as poor Miss Barnes has been to her. I also had become greatly attached to her as I came to know her better. I have seen her a great deal of late. I shall miss her so much." "SAN FRANCISCO, April 27, 1884. "DEAR COUSIN CORDIE: "Your letter has been received. I thank you so much for it. I have so much to write that I hardly know where to begin. But I will wait until I return giving my account of our stay here.... We went to a grand party at Col. C. F. Crocker's last evening. The house was thrown open and all the rooms profusely decorated with flowers most exquisitely arranged. Supper was served all the evening, and there was dancing in the picture gallery." "Monday, 28th. "I was interrupted yesterday by a visit from my doctor and after him the Queen of Tahiti, Marian Pomare, by name, who is on her way home. She has just returned from a visit to France." Mrs. Bishop then wrote fully concerning her I 8 -i a r; I:; ':: bar La z 0 z w t3 z, P X EI 215 health, the physician whom she consulted advising an operation at once, which she was assured would not be difficult or dangerous. She added: "I must say that I was shocked at first at the announcement, but he (Dr. Lane) talked so sensibly that I consented." Of the friends who were with her at the time, Mrs. Easton and her daughter, Mrs. Crocker, she wrote: "They have done everything for my comfort and happiness; they are most devoted friends; my own relatives could not do more for me than they are now doing. I shall have the most experienced nurse to take care of me and assist M. The doctors say that the operation is not a dangerous one, and that I should be all right in a few days, so I try to be contented under the circumstances." She took into her confidence, besides Mrs. Allen, but three or four persons. It was arranged that Mrs. Easton should write her husband "all the particulars," when the ordeal was over. Of her fortitude and unselfishness, Mrs. Henry Severance, now residing in Dover, N. H., and whose husband was for many years United States Consul General in the Hawaiian Islands, has also borne 216 testimony. In a letter dated July 2, 1907, she wrote to Mr. Bishop: "The recollection of our friendship is, and will ever be, one of the most precious memories of my life. The charm of Mrs. Bishop's character and beautiful personality comes often and often to my mind, and I value beyond expression the last token of her loving remembrance, received after she no longer needed such earthly adornments.... I am enclosing a copy of the last and now only letter of hers in my possession, written as you will see soon after her last return to Honolulu. She found me quite ill on her arrival in San Francisco. I remember her coming to see me one evening, seemingly as cheerful and bright as though in perfect health. After returning to the hotel that night she wrote me of her condition and the arrangements for the surgical treatment next morning, saying that 'she had planned for me to be with her, but finding me so ill, had not spoken of it.' I refer to this to show her dear, unselfish thoughtfulness of others, rather than of her own needs. I have never ceased to regret my inability to be of help at that time, but was with her as much as possible, and afterwards was glad, indeed, when she was considered strong enough for the voyage home. But her hopes for perfect recovery were not to be realized, and all too soon came the saddening news of her death. 217 Truly 'her works do follow her,' and the people of Hawaii, as well as other numberless friends, will never cease to honor her memory." The note mentioned by Mrs. Severance was as follows, written after Mrs. Bishop's return to the Islands: "'HALEAKALA, HONOLULU,' June 15, 1884. "MY DEAR MRS. SEVERANCE: "You will be pleased, I think, to learn that I am almost, if not quite well again, although I cannot as yet walk very briskly, for I am still a little weak in the lower extremities and a little shaky in my hands. But I hope in a week or two to be all right again, for we have as yet been home only a week to-morrow. I improved rapidly on the way down, helped, no doubt, by the smooth, level passage, for the sea was like a mirror and the weather very pleasant. We arrived home early Monday morning about six o'clock, so early we caught our friends napping. They were awfully disgusted. You cannot imagine how happy I was to get home, and to breathe once more my native air. But the last few days it has been very hot and (tell it not in Gath) I have sighed a little for some of your cool bracing air. With much love to yourself, Mr. Severance, and the young ladies, "Believe me ever your affectionate and grateful friend, "BERNICE BISHOP." CHAPTER XXV ILLNESS AND DEATH. THE failure of Mrs. Bishop's health was largely due to the anxiety and fatigue occasioned by the illness of her cousin, the Princess Ruth Keelikolani. The protracted funeral observances, the weeks of watching while the body lay in state, all taxed Mrs. Bishop's strength and made her more susceptible to disease than she would otherwise have been. Prior to this, she had enjoyed remarkable health, and when grown to womanhood once remarked that she had never experienced pain. When the ordeal came she endured months of suffering heroically, at the same time availing herself of every means known to medical science by which she might recover. As the disease progressed she was advised by her physician, Dr. Trousseau, to go to California, not only for the benefits of the voyage and the change of scene and air, but for a consultation in San Francisco. Mr. Bishop 218 ROYAL MAUSOLEUM 2I9 strongly concurred in this, in the hope that she might recover, but without suspecting the nature of the disease threatening her life. While her courage did not fail, she greatly disliked to have her condition of health discussed. She sailed for San Francisco April 14, 1884. Upon her arrival, while far from well, she undertook various commissions for her friends with her customary unselfishness. She visited her husband's relatives in or near San Francisco, and also went about, taking that interest in affairs which she had always shown. In a letter to her cousin she says: "We have now been in Frisco nearly a week, and, as usual, I have been out to see the dressmaker, milliners, etc., etc., to say nothing of shopping, although I have not indulged much in that respect for myself.... The weather has been perfectly atrocious since we came. It has rained every day-cold and damp, and we have been obliged to have fire in our room a great deal.. I feel very much better for being here, and, for a wonder, have not had a cold. Poor Mr. S-1 will go down in the Alameda and 1 Robert Stirling, Minister of Finance through the reigns of Kamehameha V. and Lunalilo, where he was associated with Mr. Bishop who was Minister of Foreign Affairs, appointed Jan. 10, 1873. 220 he tells me he dreads more than anything going back to Honolulu just now, not only because of the memories connected with his poor wife, but he dreads receiving condolence from his friends, so do not speak to him at all about her, unless he refers to it himself.... "I have been up to the Crockers' to-day and took lunch with them. What a nice, comfortable, and elegant home they have.... The little girl is a darling, so bright and cunning. She is still rather shy of me and will not be kissed." In another letter she says: "We went yesterday afternoon-Easterto see the Knights Templar, who attended their [annual] religious service at Dr. Stone's church. They occupied the body of the church and made an imposing appearance in full uniform and regalia." A friend from Honolulu, who was also ailing, met her on the street at this time and asked after her health. She replied: "I am wretched; I need patching up. Suppose we both go to the hospital." The following day she consulted a physician upon the urgent advice of a friend and he advised an operation without delay, saying that the disease was making such rapid 221 strides that there was no time to lose. She acceded to this opinion and calmly made her preparations for the ordeal, with a full recognition of the fact that the outcome in such cases must always be more or less uncertain. It was performed in the annex of the Palace Hotel, where a comfortable room had been made ready, two old friends being with her. Her husband, in the meantime, was waiting in Honolulu for the reports of the physicians. She expressed a strong desire that she might live, and go back to Honolulu, "to do more for her people." After a short convalescence she recovered sufficiently to return to Honolulu, where she arrived the first week in June (1884). She spent a few weeks at "Haleakala," then went to her Waikiki residence, and for a short time the sea air seemed to benefit her. During these last days she took renewed pleasure in the society of her friends and neighbors, and especially in that of her former teacher, Mrs. Cooke. Her pastor, Rev. H. H. Parker, also called to see her, and as she bade him good-bye, realizing that the parting was final, she assured him that " all was well." After a brief apparent progress toward recovery, there was a sudden relapse attended 222 by intense suffering, and as soon as possible she was taken to Keoua Hale, the house on Emma Street, where she died at twelve minutes past noon, October 16, 1884. In the records of her last days this reminiscence, published at the time of her death, is especially interesting and touching: "Her love for the young was great, and it was a pretty sight indeed to see her surrounded by a group of children to whose pleasure she was ministering. Only five short weeks ago we can thus remember her standing on the lawn of her residence at Waikiki. What a pretty picture it was! The blue Pacific stretching to the horizon, the tall pillars of the cocoanut palms, the sunflecked lawn, and this gentle woman crowned with a wreath of white tropic flowers, tuberoses and plumarias wrought by deft baby fingers, unbending her habitual dignity of manner to please the little ones that clamored round her skirts. Death had then marked her for his own, but, mercifully, none knew how near at hand." As a mark of mourning at the time of her death, the lowering of the flags at half-mast throughout the city and upon the vessels in the harbor, the closing of the schools and places of business, the adjournment of the DRAWING-ROOM AT KEOUA HALE. 223 courts, were no perfunctory recognition of the rank of a great alii. It was a spontaneous tribute paid the woman who had so endeared herself to the community, and to the entire nation. The arrangements for the funeral were in accordance with the customs of the Hawaiians at the death of a great chief, Mr. Bishop waiving his personal preference in the matter. After the death of the Princess Ruth the kahilis used at the lying in state were taken to pieces and the feathers carefully preserved. Immediately they were brought out and scores of native women set to work to restore them to their original state. These towering, many-colored kahilis were arranged about the long drawing-room, and on either side of the broad walk to the main entrance of the grounds. The body lay in state in the rear of the drawing-room separated from that in front by folding doors which stood open. The last services were rendered by friends and retainers, and Mrs. Rice, who was present, relates how tenderly these duties were performed, the draping of the long soft folds of the white silk robe, and the arrangement of the flowers, all pure white, very fragrant, and intermingled with delicate ferns. 224 Four royal officials in full uniform, two on either side of the bier, were in constant attendance, with six kahili bearers, three on each side uniformed in black, waving the insignia of chiefhood. There were of these eighty-four, relieved at intervals of two hours through the day and night. This ceremonial has been thus described: "Very striking was the solemn change as the relief came in. Behind each kahili bearer stood his relief, and, at a given signal, the kahili was passed from hand to hand, the fresh bearers lowered the kahilis for a moment while the tired guards formed in line and bowed in reverence to the remains; then the monotonous waving was resumed, and continued without ceasing until the next relief. It was a moving sight to see in the dim light of the fading day." The wail of native mourners sounded unceasingly the funeral mele in which the virtues of the dead alii were recited. These ceremonies continued for fifteen days, during which the natives gathered in the grounds without, her own retainers seated upon the floor of the hall, while the King and his family, with intimate friends and relatives, were grouped in the deep window 225 embrasures, and all attired in mourning. On Saturday evening preceding the burial on Sunday, Oct. 3oth, a special service was held by the Hawaiians at which Queen Emma and a few of Mrs. Bishop's closest personal friends were present. Throughout the fortnight during which the body lay in state, two hundred and thirty retainers had been provided for upon the premises according to the Hawaiian custom upon such occasions. They had been generously sheltered and furnished food and whatever else was required for their comfort. At the special service these Hawaiians filled the apartment. Additional kahilis were brought in and placed about the bier; the lights were lowered, the brilliant moonlight streaming in through the partially closed blinds, while a band of Hawaiian singers chanted mle's in memory of the dead. From the day of Mrs. Bishop's death to that fixed for the burial it rained almost continuously but at the appointed hour for the final service the clouds lifted, the sky became clear, and the sun shone brightly. The body had been placed in a casket of koa and ko, beautiful native woods, in coffins of which the remains of Hawaiian is 226 high chiefs were generally consigned for burial. It was of hand workmanship, the wood highly polished. The lid bore a shield of silver upon which was the following inscription: "The Honorable Bernice Pauahi Bishop, daughter of the Chiefs A. Paki and L. Konia and wife of the Honorable Charles R. Bishop. Born December 9, 183I. Died October i6th, I884." The bier upon which the coffin rested was covered with black crepe and satin, over which was spread a pall of black velvet bordered with white, embroidered with the Hawaiian coat of arms. After the removal of the coffin from the house it was placed upon a catafalque drawn by four white horses. From the main entrance of the house to the street, men clothed in black, wearing feather cloaks, holding their inclined kahilis, stood at attention. With the members of Mrs. Bishop's immediate family, King Kalakaua was amongst the mourners, with Queen Kapiolani, Queen 227 Emma, the Princess Lydia, now the exQueen Liliuokalani. The members of the Cabinet, the Supreme Court, the diplomatic and consular bodies, the prominent public officials, the Protestant clergy, the civic societies and military organizations, the Sheriffs of the different islands, with the konohikis of the lands belonging to Mrs. Bishop were all represented in the long procession. The cortege proceeded from the residence on Emma Street to Beretania, thence up Nuuanu to the Royal Mausoleum. The route of the procession was thronged with people of all nationalities, the entire distance. At the Mausoleum the coffin was placed temporarily between those of Keelikolani and Leleiohoku to await its removal to the vault in which it now rests. CHAPTER XXVI CONCLUSION HE funeral sermon was delivered the Sunday following Mrs. Bishop's death at Fort Street Church by the pastor, Rev. J. A. Cruzan, who spoke feelingly and eloquently from the text, "For none of us liveth to himself and no man dieth to himself " (Rom. xiv. 7). From the address these extracts have been taken: "The last and best of the Kamehamehas lies in her last long sleep. For fifty-three years she has gone in and out, before this people and this city. In her position, high in rank, with great wealth at command, of necessity taking a prominent part in the social life of this city and nation, it was especially impossible for her to 'live for herself.' Her life was known to all. How good and true that life was you have no need that a comparative stranger should haltingly and imperfectly tell you. But, while our hearts are all tender and our thoughts are 228 t MEMORIAL CHAPEL. 229 full of the irreparable loss which this death brought upon the nation, it seems most fitting that we should fix in our minds some of the lessons which her life and death may teach us. First, we see in this life the priceless value of true womanliness. The great loss which Hawaii sustained last Thursday was not that the last of this great line of high chiefs died, but that a true woman died. 'Who can find a virtuous (i.e., a strong, noble, true) woman; her price is far above rubies.' True in all times and among all races,pre-eminently true in these days, among our native Hawaiians. And all the more valuable is such a rare jewel of womanhood where there is joined to it rank and potential influence and wealth. "That Bernice Pauahi Bishop was such a true woman her life bears witness. Refusing a crown, she lived that which she wascrowned. Refusing to rule her people, she did what was better, she served them, and in no way so grandly as by her example. And her death brings home the truth uttered years ago by Dr. Howe: 'The world can do without its masters better than it can do without its servants.' "Her example was especially marked and helpful, just in the direction in which the Hawaiian race, and especially Hawaiian women, have greatest need for help. For fifty-three years her royal life here has borne unswerving witness in favor of her virtue 230 and purity. Her example in this direction was not mute. It took voice on all proper occasions and made itself known in all womanly ways. She hated that which was impure with an intense hatred. She had only loathing and contempt for that which was coarse and low. Place, power, wealth, nor influence could win her favor or regard if it joined with degraded character. And, second, her life for more than thirty years has taught her own race and all this people the sacredness of marriage and the home. As she lived and moved among her people... as a true wife she leaves a bright heritage to her people. Her own home did not bound her thoughts. She believed in pure homes for her people.... And in order that there might be homes worthy of the name, she knew and felt that her Hawaiian sisters must be trained to become good wives, mothers, and home-keepers. With open generous hand, and with womanly sympathy and tenderness, many a young Hawaiian girl has been thus led and trained by this noble woman. And in this respect she was wise. The great need of this nation is a wise, systematic training of young girls to be home-makers." One who knew her very intimately has thus written of her peculiar relation to her own people and to the foreign element with 231 which she was always in close sympathy: "I think Mrs. Bishop was thoroughly appreciated by foreigners as well as by natives, and I have heard it said that she was a strong link between the two people, treating each with the same consideration. In a letter to Mr. Bishop dated July Io, 1907, Mr. James B. Williams of Stamford, Conn., whom Mrs. Bishop has mentioned in her correspondence, pays this tribute to her memory: "In i875,-I think it was,-you and your wife came to New York, en route for Europe. It was the year Mr. Ralston, president of the Bank of California, died. In consequence of his death, you left your wife with us for a few weeks at Stamford, while you returned to California. "This afforded a further opportunity to know your wife better, and for the ripening of our friendship. "I wish I possessed the gift required to give fitting utterance to a tribute to her. As I look back on her rare, sweet, gentle personality, simple and guileless as a child, modest and lovable as a woman, coupled with a queenly dignity, carrying with her an atmosphere of cheerfulness that was both invigorating and contagious, I realize the difficulties of the task. 232 " Her christian faith, her ready sympathy, her active beneficence, her absorbing interest in the welfare of her race, her winning and gracious manner, the perfection of high breeding, made up a character beloved by all who knew her, the memory of which I love to dwell upon, and would not exchange for worlds. "I once read an epitaph which seems so well fitted to your wife, that I cannot help quoting it: " ' Looking with faith to the better life hereafter, she so walked here in love and duty, that they who sorrowed most for her departure, still more blessed God for her life and good example.' As was customary with one of her rank many name songs or mgles were composed in honor of Pauahi at her birth. From a number of these the following stanzas have been selected with the exception of the chorus which is a full stanza from a famous old song in her honor, the one most usually chanted to her when she appeared in public, so that she was very frequently spoken of and addressed as Ka Wahine hele la o Kaiona,"The Sunbeam-Chasing Lady of Kaiona." The mlk has been translated by Mrs. E. M. Nakuina. THE BERNICE PAUAHI BISHOP MUSEUM. 233 I smell a cold, sweet perfume, The rain Poaihela is cold to my skin. I am wearing the lei mokihana, the decoration of Kaiona, Lihau is shivering with the cold as of the Kaleiponi frost. REFRAIN. Answer to thy name, "Sunbeam-chasing Lady of Kaiona," Chasing the mirage of the ohia flowery desert, My companion of the cold double night-rain of the Koolau And of the ki and kukui shaded groves of Kahoiwai. I am enraptured with the spreading ohelopapa Whose flowers are peeping and nodding from the cold mist; I am dreaming and thinking of them always,My unmeasurable wondering thoughts fly to them. I have seen the rainbows and the fall of Niakala,The white circling water mist floating constantly there,Have shivered with the cold of the water mistI am warm in the folding arms of Hiilei. In the disposition of her estate, Mrs. 234 Bishop was left entirely free to exercise her own judgment, except in so far as she desired and sought advice. Her will was a reflection of her character; her appreciation of all who had the slightest claim upon her consideration, with many who had not, but in whom, for reasons of her own, she had shown a kindly interest. Her many namesakes were remembered, with her more intimate friends; especially those of her own race. To the Princess Liliuokalani, afterwards Queen, was given the Ahupuaas, or hereditary estates of Lumahai on Kauai, and of Kealia on Hawaii, to be used during her life. Queen Emma was bequeathed lands on Nuuanu Street known as Laimi, on the same terms. Kawaiahao Church received $5000, and Kawaiahao Girls' Boarding School an equal amount. To the Hon. S. M. Damon she left the beautiful and historic estate, Moanalua, "to have and to hold forever." This had been an ancient pleasure ground and residence of the chiefs and has been brought to a high state of cultivation by the present owner. The entire estate being open to the public on the most generous terms-a loyal recognition of the public spirit of the testator. 235 By the terms of the remaining bequests many faithful servants and retainers were provided for and placed beyond the chance of destitution in old age. Other beneficiaries were Iolani College, the English Sisters' School (The Priory), and St. Andrew's Church. After liberal bequests to her husband, the bulk of the estate was to be applied to the endowment and maintenance of what were to be known as the Kamehameha Schools. The original will was dated October 3 I, 1883, and the codicils October 4, i884, one year later-but a short time before her death In making provision by which her race was to be thus benefited, her hope and ambition for their advancement is clearly indicated. The more important clauses bearing upon this important question were as follows: " To expend the annual income in the maintenance of said schools, meaning thereby the salaries of teachers, the repairing of the buildings, and other incidental expenses, and to devote a portion of each year's income to the support and education of orphans, and others of indigent circumstances, giving the preference to Hawaiians of pure or part aboriginal blood.... 236 "I desire my trustees to provide first and chiefly a good education in the English branches, and also instruction in morals and in such useful knowledge as may tend to make good and industrious men and women, and I desire instruction in the higher branches to be subsidiary to the foregoing objects.. I also direct that my said trustees shall make, annually, a full report of all receipts and expenditures and of the condition of the said schools to the Chief Justice of the Supreme Court.... I also direct that the teachers of said schools shall forever be persons of the Protestant religion, but I do not intend that the choice should be restricted to persons of any particular sect.. I direct that a majority of my said trustees shall act in all cases... And that the number of my said trustees shall be kept at five, and that vacancies shall be filled by the choice of a majority of the justices of the Supreme Court, the selection to be made from Protestants.... Of the two schools I direct that the school for boys shall be well established, and in efficient operation, before any money is expended or anything undertaken on account of the new school for girls. It is my desire that my trustees should do thorough work in regard to said schools so far as they go; and I authorize them to defer action in regard to the establishment of the school for girls, if in their opinion, from the condition of my estate, it may be expedient 237 to wait until the life estates created by my will have expired.... I also direct that my trustees shall have power to determine to what extent said schools shall be industrial, mechanical, or agricultural, and also to determine if tuition shall be charged in any case." It should be explained that Mrs. Bishop's action in regard to the prior establishment of the school for boys was from no lack of interest in the education of Hawaiian girls, but because there was already in operation at that time Kawaiahao School and others, in which the latter received excellent training. Within a few years after the framing of Mrs. Bishop's will, all the real property which she had bequeathed to her husband was by him conveyed to the trustees; and other property of his own was added thereto by deed, to aid in the establishment and support of the Kamehameha Schools. CHAPTER XXVII THE KAMEHAMEHA SCHOOLS, AND BERNICE PAUAHI BISHOP MUSEUM. AS the preceding record will show, the dominating idea of Mrs. Bishop's life was the enlightenment and elevation of the Hawaiian race, and, through this, the general betterment of their material conditions and their mode of living. With a practical knowledge of good books, she advocated knowledge of handicraft for boys, and as thorough and scientific a training in domestic science, for girls. By one, the maintenance of future households was assured, and by the other the creation and up-keep of well-ordered homes wherein refinement and taste might exist, with every regard for the physical well-being of the family. She had seen the principle carried out in a modest way, through her own schooldays,-a source of benefit for all who were willing to benefit by it, and even where those benefits ceased, for a time, to be apparent. In this great 238 239 undertaking Mrs. Bishop had the hearty cooperation of her husband. After her death he not only saw that her wishes were carried out to the letter, but he gave largely from his own private fortune to broaden the scope of the undertaking as it was originally planned. The first meeting of the trustees appointed to execute Mrs. Bishop's will, the Hon. Charles R. Bishop, Hon. Samuel M. Damon, Rev. Charles M. Hyde (since deceased), Hon. Charles M. Cooke, and Hon. William 0. Smith, all of whom were her warm and trusted friends, was held at Mr. Bishop's residence, April 9, 1885. As she had directed, the school for boys was established first. The school was organised Oct. 20th, I887, and in i888 a preparatory school was added to the foundation. Funds were in readiness for the girls' school six years later, and this was formally opened December I9, i894. The land upon which the fine buildings are grouped-the schools, the Bishop Memorial Chapel, erected by Mr. Bishop to the memory of his wife, with the Bernice Pauahi Museum, also a memorial from him-was the gift of the testatrix, a part of her estate. No appeal of any sort was made to the public to supplement the 240 splendid gift-neither in the way of endowments nor buildings. The entire foundation stands, an unshared benefaction, from its donor, and her husband. The grounds of both schools are now under high cultivation, set in palms and other tropical trees and shrubs, with smooth lawns and walks, with kitchen gardens which are cared for by the pupils, producing all the fruits and vegetables required for use. The grounds of the two schools adjoin each other, but are separated by the public highway, the electric car furnishing quick communication with the business portion of the city two miles away. The elevation affords a beautiful view of Honolulu, and the harbor with its crowded shipping; while in the opposite direction stretch the rich cane lands of Ewa, skirted by the distant Waianae mountains along their borders. There are also beautiful views of Diamond Head, the familiar Hawaiian landmark, and the Punchbowl. The campus of each school affords ample space for playgrounds, walks, and tennis courts, in addition to the gardens mentioned. Both institutions have a separate corps of teachers, class-rooms, laboratories, and libraries, but 241 the pupils meet for social recreation under the surveillance of the teachers,-Saturday evening being the regular informal reception at the girls' school. On Sunday the pupils of both schools, in all departments, meet for the services that are held in the beautiful chapel. It is an impressive sight to see the boys in their gray uniforms standing at attention, while the girls, in their gowns of spotless white, pass into the chapel before them; the same ceremony reversed being observed upon dismissal. The chapel is of stone, quarried from the school tracts, the interior finished in polished woods, there being an excellent organ, the choir under the leadership of Mr. Stanley Livingston, instructor in music, being composed of the best voices in both schools. They are perfectly drilled, and the united voices of all, supplementing this trained choir, are rich and sweet to an unusual degree-the richness and sweetness of the natural Hawaiian voice. The instruction in the boys' school comprises a careful and judiciously chosen course in history, literature, composition, mathematics, natural sciences, and economicsspecial attention being given to Hawaiian x6 242 history, myths, and legends. In this department the course in both schools is practically uniform. Drawing is also carefully taught in both, with nature study, much attention being given to field work. In the manual training department of the boys' school, sewing, tailoring, printing, wood-turning, elementary and advanced carpentry are taught, with forging, machine work, and painting. Skilled men are in charge of all these departments, and the workshops are equipped with all that is required, and of the best. The facilities for teaching practical agriculture, and dairying, are on as liberal a scale. Several hundred acres of the estate belonging to the school are devoted to timber for instruction in forestry and pasturage, the pupils working in the dairy and caring for the animals-horses, pigs, and cows. In the girls' school the entire work of the house is done by the pupils, with competent instructors in the kitchens to train them in the preparation of the food, all of which is done in the most admirable way. The instruction in the care of the dining-room and other rooms, laundrying, sewing, cutting, fitting, embroidery and lace-making for the advanced classes, is equally as thorough. k::-an KAMEHAMEHA SCHOOL FOR GIRLS. I 243 As with the boys' workshops, the laundry, kitchen, and sewing-rooms are fitted out with the most perfect appliances that can be procured. Both schools have a perfect water supply for baths and domestic purposes, and are lighted throughout with electricity, the care of which devolves upon the mechanical department of the boys' school. The gymnasiums in both are spacious, well-lighted, and complete. A most successful attempt has been made to give to the schools the true atmosphere of the home; the rooms are exquisitely clean and well furnished. Great care is given the question of food, clothing, and personal cleanliness. There are a limited number of scholarships which may be competed for in both schools, those in the girls' school being provided for by the will of Mrs. Bishop with a number of half-scholarships by the C. R. Bishop trust deed. The pupils when ill have the best care, a nurse and physician being in attendance, when required. The course in nature study in the girls' school comprises the study of plant, insect, and animal life, with the lighter forms of agriculture, the orchard and garden. It is a five 244 years' course, the last being devoted to laboratory work in chemistry. The buildings of the schools are admirable in design, of pleasing architecture, thoroughly suited to their surroundings and requirements. The principal buildings upon the campus of the boys' school are of gray, undressed stone, as are the Memorial Chapel and the Museum. Those of the girls' school are of wood, with wide corridors and verandas, the latter being utilized on social occasions. Bishop Hall and the preparatory building are also the individual gifts of Mr. Bishop. The Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum was founded four years after Mrs. Bishop's death by her husband primarily for the care and preservation of Hawaiian relics, handicraft, specimens of the flora and fauna of the Hawaiian Islands "and other islands of the Pacific." Under the directorship of Dr. William T. Brigham and his efficient staff of assistants, it is now widely known as one of the most perfect ethnological museums in the world, not in its scope, but in the completeness, the excellent classification and arrangement of its exhibits. It has twice outgrown its capacity and new halls have been added. One is for the exclusive accommoda HON. CHARLES R. BISHOP, 1906. U I 4-,, 245 tion of Hawaiian exhibits. In the entrance hall is this memorial inscription: To THE MEMORY OF BERNICE PAUAHI BISHOP, FOUNDER OF THE KAMEHAMEHA SCHOOLS, A BRIGHT LIGHT AMONG HER PEOPLE HER MEMORY SURVIVES. Returning to the schools, it is not necessary to state that the teachers in both institutions have been selected with the utmost wisdom and are a body of men and women equal in their training and acquirements to those in the best educational institutions in the United States; enthusiastic and devoted to their pupils and to their calling. The first President of the Kamehameha School for Boys was Rev. William B. Oleson, who was connected for some time with the manual training school for boys in Hilo. To him was assigned the initial work of organization, and during the ten years he remained in charge he brought the school to the high degree of efficiency which has since been maintained. He was succeeded by Mr. Theodore Richards. The President of the Schools at this time is Mr. Perley Leonard Home, who is a graduate of Harvard, from 246 which university he also received his degrees. He was appointed in I904 and has made an excellent record. Miss Alice Knapp, the principal of the preparatory department of the school for boys, is a graduate of the Oswego State Normal and Training School of New York. She was appointed in I894 and is thoroughly qualified for the position which she fills. The other assistants of the President in the faculty are graduates of the best literary and technical institutions in the United States. Miss Ida M. Pope, L.B., at the head of the Kamehameha School for Girls, has held that position since its beginning, in I894. She is a graduate of Oberlin, and in addition to the general supervision of the institution in its various departments, is the instructor in history. She is in all respects a remarkable woman; of fine and cordial manners, with a broadly cultivated mind and with deep, never-failing sympathy that has peculiarly fitted her to win and hold the love and confidence of the young Hawaiian girls committed to her care. When one sees her among her pupils, the reflection instantly comes to mind, that in her acquirements, her under 247 standing, in her high and inflexible standard of integrity, she is such a woman as Mrs. Bishop herself would have honored, and would have chosen for the place that she fills so nobly. The holidays in both schools are well enjoyed, and besides those commonly celebrated, there are frequent musical and literary entertainments arranged by the pupils of both schools, with excursions to interesting localities, all directed by their teachers. The most important of the school anniversaries is the annual celebration of Founder's Day, December g9th, which was first planned and instituted by Mr. Richards, commemorating the birth of Mrs. Bishop. The exercises on these occasions are always solemn and impressive. In I895, the dedication of the Memorial Chapel was the chief event of Founder's Day. The Princess Kaiulani, Mrs. Haalelea, and Mrs. Coney, representative Hawaiian women of high rank, were seated upon the platform with the faculty of the schools, the trustees, and other invited guests. The exercises are always followed by the decoration of the grave, which is covered with garlands of mail6, fragrant flowers, and 248 ferns, this pledge being recited in concert by the pupils of both schools: "We, the pupils of the Kamehameha Schools, in the presence of the ashes of our Alii, pledge ourselves for the coming year, to strive to put from us such thoughts and feelings as may tend to degrade our minds and bodies; to give more time and strength to gaining all she wished us to gain, and to strive to honor her name wherever we may be. And we do this that we may the better prepare ourselves to have such homes and such conditions as shall tend to keep and develop for our race all those noble traits of character she possessed." At the dedication of the chapel in I895, Rev. H. H. Parker, for many years Mrs. Bishop's pastor, concluded his eloquent tribute " to the last and best of the Kamehamehas" in these words, addressed to the pupils, and which may serve as a fitting conclusion to these memoirs: "The duty is upon us all to preserve the civilization planted here, and transmit it to those who are to come after us. We all have a trust to discharge. Skill without industry is worthless. People without moral character have no standing. The youth who get 249 their part in life in these schools should ever remember the debt of gratitude they owe to the noble woman who founded them. On this anniversary of her birth we do not honor her so much as we glorify God who gave her the heart and the purpose to do the work for the living and those yet to come. Does she not join to-day as an unseen worshipper? There is need for men and women as workers. There should be no delay. Let us see that no son or daughter of Hawaii drifts back into the darkness which we have quitted." INDEX Aldrich, W. A., 93 Alexander, Dr. W. D., 14, 26 Allen, Judge E. H., death, 201 Allen, Mrs. W. F., iii., 104, I3I, I99 Amateur Musical Society of Hawaii, iI6 Andrews, Judge, IoI Andrews, Rev. C.B., 78,80 Annis, Mary (Mrs. Chas. Turner), 86 Anson, Commander, R.N., I3I Arlington Hotel, 102 Armstrong, Baxter, 157 Armstrong, Rev. Richard, 99, II6 Atherton, Mrs. J. M., 88 Auhea, 7, 55, 62 Austin, Mr. and Mrs., 189 Ballieu, M., 3 Barnes, Miss, 213 Basagon, Mr., 71 Benko, Baron, 17I Bennett, C. C., 6 Bernice, illness, 59 Bingham, Rev. Hiram, 27, 29 Bishop, Chas. R., 90, 95, 99 Bishop, E. F., 198 Bishop, F. E., 90 Bishop, G. Bradley, 198; death of, 199 Bishop, Mrs., mother, 2; marriage, Ioo; death, 222; funeral, 223; will, 234 Bombellas, Countess de, I68 Brickwood, Mrs., 209 Brigham, Dr. W. T., r 6 Brown, Captain, 133 Burhans, Miss, 157 Burlingame, Anson, 126 Bush, Mrs., 190 Byron's Bay, 80 "Camp Boston," 102 Campenari, Marquise de, I77 Cartwright, Mrs., I90 Clark, Rev. E. W., 65 Coan, Rev. Mr., 78 Coan, Miss Sarah, r59 Coney, Mrs., 247 Congregational Mission in Hawaiian Islands, 37 Cooke, Amos, 95; letters to Miss Montague, 77 -82 Cooke, Hon. Chas. M., 89, 239 Cooke, Joe, 134 Cooke, Miss, 155 Cooke, Mr. and Mrs., 30; arrival in Honolulu, 37 Cooke, Mrs., letters to Chas. Montague, 59; extract from diary, 71 Couthouy, Mr., 58 251 252 Crocker, Col. C. F., 214 Cruzon, Rev. J. A., 228 Damon, Father, 9I, 200 Damon, Hon. S. M., 234, 239 Davies, Theophilus, 144 Descent, 3 Diamond Head, 240 Dibble, Sheldon, 32 Dominis, Gov. J. 0., 207 Douglass, Mr., 77 Dowsett, Mrs., ii6o Easton, Mrs., 2I5 Edinburgh, Duke of, irig, I92 Ely, Marchioness of, I93 Emerson, Dr. W. B.-, 4 Emma, Queen, 210, 225 Erben, Captain, U. S. N., 1131 Fielding, Col., the Hon. William, 146, I93 Fornander, 3 Gherardi, Captain, U. S. N., 131I Gilman, Gorham D., 7, 8, 20, 46, 91 Gilman, Mrs., extract from diary, 84 Glade, Mr., 162 Goodale, Miss, 71 Green, Mrs. W. L., 131 Haalelea, Mrs., 247 Haines, Mrs., 1, 131 "Haleakala," 7, 102 Hall Willie, 159 Hall, W. W., 38 Hawaiian Historical Society, 4 Hecla, Mount, 7Q Henry, Prince of Germany, I22 Hewitt, Mr., I85 H ilo, 7 9 Hines, Miss (Mrs. E. Kopke), letter to, 21I3 History of the Hawaiian Islands, I 5 Hoffman, Mr., 210O 1Honolulu, 7 Honolulu, Chiefs of, 9 Honolulu: Sketches of Life in the Hawasian Islands, '5 Horne, Perley Leonard, 245 Hutchinson, Dr., 208 Hyde, Rev. Chas. M., 239 Jarves, James Jackson, ' 5, 29 John II., 2 8 J-ones, Mrs. P. C., 1 3 1 IJudd, C., 197 Judd, Dr., 54, 98, 101 Judd, Helen, 38 Judd, Mrs. Laura Fish, I 5, I 8, 119, 40 Kaahumanu, 2, 1 6 Kaaniau, Elizabeth, 43 Kaeo, Peter Young, 311 Kahailiopua, 3 Kahanu, 210 Kahooheiheipahu, 6 Kaika, 44 Kailua, 206 Kaiulani, Princess, 247 Kalakaua, 2 10 Kalakaua, David, 31 Kalakaua, King,.190, 226 Kalanihelemaiiluna, 6 Kaliokalani, James, 31 Kamaipuupaa, 209 253 Kamakau, judge, 209 Kamamalu, Victoria, 17, 3' Kamehameha I., 2, 3, 4, 5 Kamehameha, Lot, I 7, 30 Kamehameha V., 207; death, 208; Will, 208; names his successor, 208 Kaneikapolei, 3 Kaoleioku, '6 4 Kapiolani,Q ueen, 2, 190, 226 Kawaiahao, Church, 44 Kealakekua, 8i Keelikolani, Princess Ruth,.10 7, 205; death, 20 6 Kekaniau, Elizabeth, 3'I Kekuaiwa, Moses, 17, 30 Kekuanaoa,I17 Kelii-mai-kai, 5 Kelly, Mr., 177 " Keoua Hale," 205 Kinau, 2, 14, r 6, -i, i 9; death of, 15, 22 King, Clarence, 15 Kiwalo, 6 Knapp, Miss Alice, 246 Konia, 2, 3, 4, 5, 19, 97 Kou trees, 63 Ku-kaili-moku, 5 Ladd, John, ioi Lahaina, 8, 6o Lahainaluna, 65 Lahay, Mr., 169 Lanai, Island of, 62 Lane, Dr., 215 Lee, Win. L., 90, 95 Liholiho, Alexander, I17, 25, 30, 97 Liliha, i 6 Liliuokalani, Queen, 42, 43, 207 Livingston, Stanley, 241 Loeau, Jane, 311, Si Lomi-lomi, xo6 Lot, Prince, letter to Mr. Gilman, 66; 97 Lowther, Mrs., 193 Luahine, 3 Luchi, Signor, 177 Lunalilo, 210 Lunalilo, William C., 31 Lydia, Princess, 2:27 Lyman, Dr. Henry M., 94 Lyman, Professor, i15 Maile', 89 Makaeha, Lydia, 3.1 Makalena, 210 Mann, Horace, ii6 Manoa Valley, '5 Mansfield, Lord, 147 Maui, 6, 7 McCarthy, Mr., i85 McIntosh, Rev. Mr., 200 McKibbin, Mrs., ii6o McLean, Captain, 1123 Meade, Captain, 137 Missionaries, first,.24; influence of, 25' Missionary Seminary at Lahainaluna, 32 Molokai, 6 Montague, Chas., 59 Montague, Fanny Eliza, diary Of, 51-58; extract from letter to, 68 Montrose, Duke of, i85 Museum, Bernice Pauahi Bishop, 244 Nahaolelua, G ov er n or, 209 Nakuina, Mrs. E. M., 232 Newell, Captain, 78 Nilsson, Mine., 141 Nuuanu, Valley, 68, 89 254 Oahu, 17 Oblinsky, Princess, 178 Oleson, Rev. Wm. B., 245 Olmstead, Mr., 58 Owen, Mrs., 148 Paaina, Mary, 31 Paki, Abner, 4, 6, 9, 97 Parke, Mrs. W. C., 131 Parker, Col. Samuel, I07 Parker, Mr., Io6 Parker, Rev. H. H., 248 Paty, John, 133 Pauahi, derivation of name, 19; 55; Bernice, birth, 19; early childhood, 21; school-days, 31; education, 43-50 Paulet, Lord, 70 Pele (volcano), 78 Petz, Contre Admiral Baron von, I8, 171 Pfluger, Mr., 149 Phillips, Stephen H., 207 Pitman, Mr., 78 Pitt, Kinau, 31 Poi, 57 Polynesian Races, 3 Pope, Miss Ida M., 246 Pope Pius IX., presentation to, I80 Pratt, Mr., 210 Pratt, Mrs., ioo Prendergast, Col., 209, 2 I Presentation at court, I92 Puna, I08 Punahou, 86 Punchbowl, the, 240 Ralston, Mr., 231 Restoration Day, 70 Rice, Mrs., 11, 40, o2, 223 Richards, Mr., 45 Richards, Theodore, 245 Richardson, Mrs., 152 Rooke, Dr., 71 Rooke, Dr. and Mrs., 78 Rooke, Emma, 31, 0 I Salisbury, Marchioness of, 192 Sarai, 28 Schonberger, Mr., 167 School, expenses, pupils, 3~ School for Young Chiefs, Family, 22, 32 School life, 28 Schools, boarding, 27 Schools, establishment of, in Hawaii, 24 Schools, text-books, 34 Severance, Mrs. Henry, 215 Shipley, Mrs., 184 Skerrett, Captain, U. S. N., 13I Smith, Hon. William O., 239 Southy, Mr., 71 Sterling, Mrs., 148 Stirling, Robert, 219 Stockbridge, Mrs., I26 Suchtelan, Countess, 177 Sunbeam-Chasing Lady of Kaiona, the, 232 Tabus, abolition of, 15 Tahiti, Queen, Marian Pomare, 214 Temple, Captain, 137 Thaddeus, the, 24 Thomas, Admiral, 70 Tietjens, Mlle., 141 Trousseau, Dr., 200 Turner, Mrs. Mary, 39 Valkenberg, Mr. Van, 126 Victoria, Queen, presentation to, 183 255 Waiakea, 8o Wailuku, 64 Weaver, Mrs., ii6 Whitney, Mrs., 86 Wiflinger, Captain Chevalier, ii 8 Wilder, Mrs. S. G., 39 Wilkes Expedition, 56 Wilkes, Lieut. Chas., U. S. N., 28, 5 7 Williams, C. A., 175 Williams, J. B., 152, 2311 Williams, Mr., i65 Williams, Mrs. J. B., i89 Wodehouse, Mr., 1311, 1911 Wodehouse, Mrs., 139 Youmans, Mr. and Mrs., '37 Youmans, Mrs., 1 5 3 iYoung, John, 25,I101 I I THE UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN 3 DATE DUE.z, ~~~~~~:::I~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~ ~~~::;i ~~: ~ ~ ~ I ~,,: UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN 3 9015 01917 786111 3 9015 01917 7867 I I~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~"i; I~