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TEWV. AJTH E m-TIC. CO M LETE. -
THE LIFE AND LABORS
OF
tAVID %I rIGSTNEL,,, D.,  C, L
COVERING HIS ENTIRE CAREER IN
SOUTHERN AND CENTRAL AFRICA.
CAREFULLY PREPARED
From the most authentic sources, viz.: his own two large volumes, " South Africa," and "The Zambesi Expedition,N
his "Last Journals" (edited by Horace Waller), the Reports of the London Geographicai Society,
the works of his cotemporaries, and various other writings bearing upon the subject,
A THRILLING NARRATIVE
OF THE
ADVENTURES, DISCOVERIES, EXPERIENCES AND  ACHIEVEIMENTS
OF
THE GREATEST EXPLORER OF MODERN TIMES
IN A
WILD AND WONDERFUL COUNTRY,
INCLUDING
His early Life, Preparation for his Life-work, a Sketch of Africa as known before his going there, the entire
Record of his heroic Undertakings, Hlazards, lardships, Triumphs, his Discovery by Ii. Mi. Stanley, his
lonely Death, faithful Self-devotion of his native Servants, Return of the Remains, Burial, etc.;
concluding with a clear and concise survey of the continent touching its Agricultural, Commercial and MIissionary promnise, the Nile Mystery, etc., as gathered from the works
of Livingstone, Baker, Speke, Grant, Barth. Sweinfurth, etc., etc. The whole
rendered clear and plain by a most accurate.AE:AP OF THRrE 8WI.OL2E RrEGIOrT OEXPLOIED
AND THE ROUTES CLEARLY INDICATED.
BY REV. J. E. CHAMBLISS.
RICHLY ILLUSTRATED
PUBLISHED BY HUBBARD BBOS., PHILADELPHIA, BOSTON AND CINCINNATI;
A. L. BANCROFT & Co., SAN FRANCISCO, CAL.; MI. M. BuRNIHAM, SYRACIJSE, N. Y.;
VALLEY PUBLISHING CO., ST. LoUIS AND ChITCAGO; II. A. W. BLACKBURN, DETROIT, MICH.;
SCHUYLER, SnrITH[ & Co., LONDON, ONT.; G. L. BENJAMIIN, FOND DU LAC, WIS.;
MIOORE & OLIVERI, DAVENPORT, IOWA.




Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1875, by
HUBBARD BROS.,
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.
Ij~rL~~~




PRE FACE.
3MY task has been to write a book setting forth as clearly as
possible the life-work of Dr. Livingstone, in its connection with
the history of the African continent, and its bearing on those
great issues involved in the redemption of that continent from
gloom and barbarism. I have followed, as closely as the subject
demanded, the books and journals of Dr. Livingstone himself,
for his personal observations and adventures, and have availed
myself freely of whatever I have found, in a wide range of
works, in illustration of the character and customs of the people,
the appearance and condition of the country, the habits of animals, and have freely seized such facts of science and of general
history as have seemed to have a bearing on my subject. Where
I have drawn on the works of others, I have done so more for
facts than for the form of putting them, and I have not been
particularly careful in making quotations, that they should be
literal, nor has it seemed important in a work designed for
popular patronage to make frequent mention of authorities. I
have had at my command the most reliable sources of information concerning the things of which I have written, and while
I am conscious that there are imperfections in the book, I have
tried to make it a faithful record, a clear delineation of character,
and a reliable witness in connection with the great interests in5




6                       PREFACE.
volved in the question of African civilization, as far as these
matters could be considered under the circumstances.
If the reader gets a true and full conception of the work of
Dr. Livingstone, catches anything of his manliness, love for
men, and zeal for Christ, and becomes more deeply interested in
the great enterprises on which the deliverance of the millions
of that unhappy continent from the dominion of ignorance and
superstition and vice depends, if he becomes only a little wiser,
and stronger, and better, and nobler, through reading the book,
I will be satisfied.
J. E. C.




CONTENT S.
INTRODUCTION.
Early Civilization in Northern Africa-The Limit of the Ancient Civilization-Theatre of Mythology-Saracen Conquest-Settlement of SoudanMohammedan Failure-The Fifteenth Century-Gilianez Passed Cape Bojador-Portuguese Efforts on the West Coast-Roman Catholicism-The
Failure-England and France-Richard Jobson-Mungo Park-Denham
and Clapperton-Richard Lander Dispels the Niger Mystery-Kingdoms
on the West-Dahomey, Ashantee, etc.-The Cape Settlement-Vasco de
Gama-The Settlement of Natal by the English-Lieutenant Christopher
-Abyssinia and the Nile —Bruce and Dr. Beke-The Nile Mystery as it
Stands-The Unknown-Livingstone.............................................. 23
CHAPTER I.
BLANTYRE TO -THE BAKWAINS.
Noble Names-David Livingstone-Blantyre-Home Traditions-The Factory-Common School-Latin-Love of Books-Be Honest-His FatherMother-Scottish Poor-Bothwell-Conversion-Missionary Spirit-China
-Medicine-Astrology-Greek-Theology-Africa - Thorough Preparation-1840-Leaves England-Goes to South Africa-Condition of CountryCape Colony-Cape Town-Algoa Bay-Port Elizabeth-Kuruman or Lattakoo-Dr. Moffat-Northward-Studying Language, etc.-Selects Matabosa-Settles-Kindness to the Natives-A Lion Encounter-Joins the
Bakwains.........................................................................................   45
CHAPTER II.
1843-1850.
The Bechuanas-The Bakwains-Sechele-His Conversion-His Difficulties
-The Government-Baptism of Sechele-Cross and Crown-Difficulties of
the Work-Belief in Rain-Making-Drought-Noble Conduct-The Hopo
-Kindness to Livingstone —Livingstone's Spirit-The Boers-SlaveryAntagonistic Principles-Boers Hate Livingstone-Sechele's ResistanceLivingstone Accused-His Effects Destroyed —Going Northward-Desire
to find the Lake-Desire to see Sebituane-Sekomi-The Desert-Bushmen-Bakalahari-Water Sucking-Across the Desert-Difficulties-Salt
Pans-The Zouga-Quakers of Africa-Lake Ngami Discovered-The
Lake-Sebituane-Guides Refused-Sketch of the Zouga-ElephantsTrees-Fish-Bayieye-Kolobeng Again-H-lome-life in Kolobeng............ 58
7




8                           CONTENTS.
CHAPTER Ill.
DESERTS AND FORESTS.
Livingstone's Second Journey to the Lake-Pass the Zouga-Forests-Tsetse
-Recross the Zouga-Lake Ngami Again-Hopes of seeing SebituaneGuides Secured-Sickness of Children-Return to Kolobeng-Opposition of
Chiefs-Sebituane's Messengers-Third Start-The Old Path —DesertGuide Wonders-Five Terrible Days-Water Found-Banajoa-Guide to
the Chobe —Makololo-Meets Sebituane-Death of Sebituane-Discovery
of the Zambesi-Returns to Cape-Sends his Family to England —A New
Tour Undertaken-Party-General Idea-Former Occupants of the Cape
-Boers of the Cape-Griquas' Territory-Effects of Mission W'vork-Kuruman-Dr. Moffat-Bible Translation-Language-War of Boers-Difficulties-Servants Secured-Starts North-Lion-Buffalo-Sechele's TourSerpents-The Ostrich-Motlasta-Belief in God-Salt Pans-KoobeFamished Beasts-Livingstone's Kindness-Tremendous Trees-Singular
Vitality-Civilized vs. Native Hunters-Unku and Sunday-Difficult Advance-The Way to Cut with the Axe-Wild Animals-The SanshurehLinyanti-May 23, 1853-Circumcision-Appearance of Country............ 78
CHAPTER IV.
NINE WEEKS WITH SEKELETU.
Arrival at Linyanti-Makololo-Their Policy-Welcome to LivingstoneSekeletu-African Hospitality —Ma-mochisane's Difficulty-Livingstone
refuses to Trade-His Labors-Makololo Ideas of Beauty-ManlinessJustice-Livingstone's Journey to the Barotse-The Soil along the Chobe
-The Party-Receptions-Sekeletu loves Coffee-Huts and Hats-The
Leeambye-Animals about Katonga-The Splendid River-The Makalaka
-The Contrast-Cattle and War-Rapids-Cataracts-Falls-No Monuments in Africa —The Barotse Valley-Fertility —Mounds-PunishmentWar Averted-The First White Man-To the Leeba-No Place for a lMission-The Wildest of all-Linyanti again-For Loando-Serious Thoughts
-Resolution-Outfit for Journey-November 11th, 1853-Escape from an
Elephant-The Hippopotamus-Arrival at Sesheke.............................. 102
CHAPTER V
TO BALONDA.
Sesheke-Sekeletu's Policy-Missionary Work-Wanting in Religious Ideas
-Duties of AMissionary-The Leeambye-Hippopotami-Mr. Cumming's
Adventure-Livingstone's Idea of Lions-Andersson-Lion ConfusedFevers Protracted-Unwelcome News-Livingstone's Wise Plan-Libonta
-Death by a Lion-The Camp-Cook and Laundry Work-Humanity of
Livingstone-Beyond  Libonta-Courage-First Act in Balonda-The
Leeba-Want of Game-Buffalo Hunt-Buffalo and three Lions —Mambari
Mierchants-Manenko-Town of Shinte-Fashions of Ankle Rings-A
Black Scold —Manenko's Dress-Fever, Rain, Hunger-Dark ForestsDelays-Invitation at last —Medicine Charms-A Soldier-Balonda Fashions-Full Undress of Balonda Lady-Balonda Gentlemen-Head-dressSalutations-Manenko's  Kindness....................................................O  119




CONTENT.                               9
CHAPTER VI.
THROUGH LONDA,
Reception at Shinte's Town-The Introduction-Private Interviews-Etiquette of the Balonda-Love for Mothers-Slavery-Theft-Magic Lantern
-Rains-Iron-works-Flooded Plains-A Charming Home-Death and
Desolate Villages-Balonda Ideas of a Future State-What to Preach to
Heathen-Troublesome Guide-Burial of the Dead —Mandans-SiouxPatagonians-Bechuanras-Balonda-Sunday with Quendende-Beautiful
Country-The Lotembwa-Katema-Reception-Provisions PresentedWisdom of Katema-Cattle-Birds in Cages-Birds and Beasts-Birds and
Spiders-Human Spiders-Fevers Again-Not much Impression-Heroism of Livingstone-Lake Dilolo-Rivers Run Northward-Mambari Traders-Influence on Border Tribes-Demands of Pay for Passing Through
Country-Expected to Fight-An Ox Given-A AMan Demanded-Sickness
of Livingstone —Mutiny in his Camp-Its Cure-Men Repent-The
Quango at Last-Bashange's Tax-Cypriano di Abrue's Kindness-Portuguese Possessions-Sweet Sleep-Angels............................................. 145
CHAPTER VII.
ANGOLA.
Anxiety-A Single Englishman-SicS less-Mir. Gabriel's Kindness-Settlement of Loanda-Portuguese Failure-Two Things Unfortunate —Makoolo at Work-The Ship " a Town "-Livingstone's Relapse-Long Illness
-What Might have Been-Slave Trade-Slavery in Africa-Grounds of
Livingstone's Opposition-Negligent Cultivation of the Soil-Two Shillings a Month-Fetich Worship-Portuguese Policy-Ivory Trade-Unpaid Labor —Mania for Litigation-" Big Funerals " —The Poison Ordeal
-Wild Animals-Th/ e Self-deical-Looking Eastward-Departure from
Loanda-Makololol  Boastings-The "True Ancients "-A  Remarkable
Insect-Amnbaca-Church or Jail-Cathollc Mistake-Pungo AndongoOn the Road-Difficulties of Ox-Riding-Traders-Beeswax and Elephant
Tusks-Liliputian Monster-Descending from "Tola Mungongo " —Cassange-Drunkenness-The Quango Again........................................ 170
CHAPTER VII1.
LONDA OR LINDA.
Lessons of Experience-Sansawe's Demands-His Rlefusal —A Blow on the
Beard-Revenge-Changing the Tune-Dandies and Belles-Lizards and
Snakes-Seven Thousand Fowls for Ten Dollars —lany Village ManiaThe Seasons-Sister of MIatiamoo-An Ox or a Man-Strategy-Trial fbr
Murder-Street Fight-Dish of White Ants-Lovely Bed of Flowers-God
in Nature-A Noble Chief-Shinte's Again-The Leeba-Life Once More
-Buffalo Hunt-Libonta Welcome-Thanksgiving Service-A Matrimonial Drawback-Capsized in the Leeambye-Sekeletu in Full Dress-The
True Ancients in White-Promising Opening-Preparation for the Journey-Going Eastward-Parting Words of Mamire-The Tribute of Faithfulnless..........................................................................................   195




1 0                         CONTENTS.
CHAPTER IX.
THE NEW  EXPEDITION.
Sekeletu's Kindness-Explanation of it-Providence in his Work-November 3, 1855 —Terrible Storm-Two Hundred AMen in Line-The Niagara of
Africa-Victoria Falls-Rainbow and Superstition-The Batoka-A Network of Rivers-The Explanation-Traditions-The First White ManBatoka Chiefs-Batoka Rebels-The Eastern _idge-Longing for QuietBatoka Generosity-A Reception-Livingstone's Courage-Power of the
Gospel-Awe of White Men-An Incident-Missionary Influence-Animals-Buffalo Bird-Rhinjoceros Bird-Soldier Ants-White Ants-An
Elephant Hunt-Elephant's Character-Indian and African ComparedDown   the   Losito............................................................................  214
CHAPTER X.
BORDER TRIBES.
The Kafue-Longing for Peace-Negro Worship-Foreign Goods-Barbisa
Traders-Five Ranges-Geological Features-Health of Livingstone-The
Zambesi again —Elephant-Hunting-Suffering from Hleat-The Native
Peculiarities-Absence of Deformed Persons-Continued FriendlinessAdventure with an Elephant-Native Suspicions-Doubtful ConductPeace and Kindness-Portuguese Enterprise-Situation of Zumbo-Abuno
dance of Game-Wonderful Liberality-Dancing for Corn-Livingstone's
Example-Providence in the Council-Mpende's Favor-Slave Trade Abhorred —Across the Zambesi-Sand River-Game Laws-Elevated HutsHIyena Scourge-Overflow of the Zambesi-Appreciation of Gifts............ 238
CHAPTER XI.
CHICOVA TO TETE.
District of Chicova-Agriculture-Game Laws-Banyai Prayers —Makololo
Faith-Insect Life-Birds-Their Songs-Squirrel-Geological FeaturesGrapes-Plums-Animal Life-Superstition about Lions —The Korwe-A
MIodel Husband-Helpful Facts-Government of the Banyai-Selecting
Chiefs-AMonina's Opposition —Fight Threatened-Sudden Derangement
-Conscience at Work-" A Guilt"-An Ordeal-Woman's Rights-The
Son-in-Law —Dignity of Woman-Good Husbands, Bad Hunters-The
Rhinoceros-Andersson's  Adventure-Terrible Encounter-Rhinoceros
Among Beasts-Villages Avoided-Nearing Tete-Livingstone Emaciated
— Eight Miles Only-A Retrospect-A Prospect-Noble Picture-Arrival
of Messengers-Civilized Breakfast-Reception at Tete-The Source of
the Zambesi Unknlown-The Value of the Discovery.......................... 258
CHAPTER Xll.
THE PORTUGUESE POSSESSIONS.
The Village of Tete-Inhabitants-Gold Washings-Slave Trade, Evil Effects of-Decadence of Portuguese Power-Superstitions of Tete-English
Calico-Articles of Export-Gold-Coal-Value of Gold Dust-Appearance
of Country —Methlod of Cultivating the Soil-Agriculture Neglected-Hot
Springs-People Favorable to Englishmen-Cause of Portuguese Failure



CONTENTS.                               11
Leaves Tete-Nyaude's Stockade-The Gorge of Lupata-Senna-The
Landeens or Zulus-Misery of Senna-Surrounding Country-The Shire
-Kilimane-Livingstone's Object-His Theory of Mission Work-His
Hopes for Africa-Arrival of the "Frolic " —Disposition of Ivory-Parts
with his Followers-Sekwebu-In the Boats-On Board the Ship-Insanity
and Death of Sekwebu-Arrival at Mauritius-Dear Old England-Forbidden Scenes-Public Honors-The Single Desire................................. 277
CHAPTER Xl1l.
AT HOME.
AMeeting on January 5th-Egyptian Hall-Splendid Assembly-Speech of
Lord Mayor-Speech of Bishop of London-Speech of Sir Roderick Murchison-Livingstone's Response —Resolutions-Subscriptioul-Travels in
England-Public Enthusiasm —Public Mleeting in Manchester-Resolutions-Public Meeting at Leeds-Addresses and Resolutions-Generous
Rivalry of Cities and Institutions-Presentation of the Freedom of London
to Livingstone-Distinguished Personages-Complimentary AddressesTremendous Applause-A Beautiful Casket-Imposing Ceremony-BookWriting-Difficulties-Surprised by the Appearance of a Bogus BookExplanation-Announcement of Dr. Livingstone's Book-Twentieth Thousand in Six Weeks-Press Comments-Extract from the London Leader
of that Date —Effects of the Book-Interest in Commercial Prospects of
Africa-Interest in Missions-Action of Missionary Societies-Invitations
to Oxford and Cambridge-Grand Assembly at Cambridge-The Reception
of Livingstone, According to Professor Sedgwick-Reception of War
Veterans-Of Chancellors-Of the Queen-None More Hearty than that
of  Livingstone....................................................................................  292
CHAPTER XIV.
LECTURE BEFORE CAMBRIDGE UNIVERSITY.
[Delivered before the University of Cambridge, in the Senate-House, on
Friday, December 4, 1857. Dr. Philpott, Master of St. Catharine's College, Vice-Chancellor, in the chair. The building was crowded to excess,with all ranks of the University and their friends. The reception was so
enthusiastic that literally there were volley after volley of cheers]........... 303
CHAPTER XV.
AGAIN IN AFRICA.
Results of Efforts at Universities-Universities' Mission-Livingstone Appointed British Consul-Interview with the Queen-Reasons for Accepting the Governmental Appointment-Love for his Mother-Care of herGovernment Appropriation-The Farewell Banquet-Distinguished Assembly-Speeches-Sir Roderick  Murchison-Livingstone's AddressArrangements Completed —Members of the Expedition-The Steam
Launch-The "Pearl "-The  Departure from  England-Livingstone's
Responsibility —What the Government Expected-Letters by the WayArrival at the Mouth of the Zambesi......................................... 315




12                          CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XVI.
ARRIVAL AT TETE.
Portuguese and the Zambesi-Posterity's Applause-The Explanation of the
Outlet-The Kongone-The Bar-The Country-Timidity of NativesThe Fertility of Soil-The Natives' Curiosity-Their Cupidity-The Channel-The Departure of the " Pearl "-The First Work-Mazaro-Excitement-Livingstone's Courage-Mariano's Cruelty-The Zulus-Their Tax
-Their Character, Hospitality, etc.-Zulu Lawyer-Shupanga-The Grave
Under the Baobab-Reception at Senna-Senhor Ferraro-Arrival at Tete
-" We will Sleep To-night.".............................................................. 322
CHAPTER XVII.
THE KEBRABASA RAPIDS.
The Journey to the Kebrabasa-Kebrabasa Range-General Appearance —
Breadth-Pressure of Water-Portuguese Ignorance-Banyai Impositions
-" Dreadful Rough " Night-Camp Scenes-A Camp Story-The Morning-Climbing Still-Sleep of Exhaustion —Makololo Distrust-Mount
Morumbwa-A Perpetual Barrier-Return to Tete-Scenes in TeteSuperstition-The Teaching of Nature-Holiness-Christmas in AfricaThe Climax of Absurdities-The Rainy Season-The Portuguese Recourse
-A Serious Matter-The Help for Fever-The Shire.............................. 341
CHAPTER XVIII.
THE SHIRE.
MIouth of the Shire-Difficulties Vanish-" Englishman "'-Shire ValleyAfrican Swamp-Livingstone's Art-Mount Morambala-Mountain Village-Chikanda-Two Pythons-Pursued by a Buffalo-The Steamer-A
Sinking Ship-No Note of Time-The Musician-Hippopotamus TrapsShire Marshes-Water-fowl-Kites and Vultures-Forest of Palml TreesIslands of the Shire-An Unhappy Chief-Village of Chibisa-Chibisa— Lake Shirwa-Sympathy of Fools-Discovery of Lake Shirwa-Return
to the Ship-Expedition to Lake Nyassa-Manganja Hills-Village of
Chilimtba-The Manganja People-Agriculture-Cotton-BManufacturesIron Ore-Native Trade-The Upper Lip Ring-Beer Drinking-Drunken
Villages-The Muave Again-Faith-Nyassa Discovered-Return to Tete.. 361
CHAPTER XIX.
JOURNEYS OF HONOR.
Regard for Obligations-Busy Preparations-Market Prices at Tete-Singular Measures-Social Turn-Evening Gatherings-Peculiar " Tea-Parties"
-Makololo Objections to Leaving Tete-Their Gains and Losses-The
Outfit-Journey Begun-Linyanti-Sekeletu-The Mission-Graves —Explanation of Failure-Livingstone's Confidence-Hope Unshakel —Makololo Faithfiilness-Attentions-Growing Disaffection-Seaward Again —
Tete-The Kongone-The "Pioneer" Arrives-The Rovuma —Return to
the Shire-The "University's Mission "-Their Misfortunes — War Prevailing-The Slave-Trade —Lake Nyassa-The Lake Tribes-Shupanga
-Death  of Mrs. Livingstone...............................................................  392




CONTENTS.                            13
CHAPTER XX.
THE BEGINNING OF THE END.
Zambesi Expedition Unsatisfactory-Zanzibar-Trade from Zanzibar-The
Outfit-Rovuma Bay-Kindany-The Makonde —Remarkable Vegetation
-Cutting Right Valiantly-Rage for Doctorship —Mohammedan Influence
-Lying Guides-Along the Rovuma-Troubles with Followers-GumCopal Tree-Extravagant Tattooing-Top of the Fashion-At Nyoinano —
The Slave-Trade-The Makoa-A Woman Rescued-Horrors of the Trade
in Slaves-Currency for Africa-Extracts from Journal-A  Deserted
Village-A Model Town of Africa............................................... 415
CHAPTER XXI.
APPROACHING NYASSA.
A Guest of Mataka-The Waiyau-Livingstone and the Arabs-The Town
of Moembe-Iron Smelting-Causes of Desolation —Waiyau DescribedLivingstone's Desires-Slave-Trade: Does it Pay?-Sepoys sent backMountains-Springs-Iron-Approaching Nyassa-Livingstone's Review
of his Route-The Watershed-Geological Formations-IKincdness of the
People-The Single C'urise-An Example of Christians-Inconvenience of
being English-Arabs as Settlers-A  Doubtful Question Settled-Pota
Mimba-Around the Foot of the Lake-No Earthquake Known-Sites of
Old Villages- Brooks-The First European Seen-" God Took Him " —
Wikatani Finds Relatives-Salt-Making-Eighty-five Slaves in a PenWork  Honorable.............................................................................   446
CHAPTER XXIl.
ABOUT NYASSA.
Geological Notes-The MIarenga-Livingstone Preaching-Small-Pox-Inveterate Thieves-Kirk's Range-Love Token-Black-haired SheepEarthquakes-A Toper Chief-A Royal Escort-Whooping-Cough-The
Hottest Month-Methods of Fertilization-No Animals-Bows and Arrows-Lip-Ring-A  Prophetic Cow-Iron Works-Village of SmithsAlarm of Mazitu-Native Furnaces-Livingstone's Patience-A Disagreeable Head Man-Level Country-Portuguese Travellers-A Herd of Buffaloes-Industry-Wild Figs-A Formidable Stockade-Trying NewsA   Steady  Faith........................................................................... 463
CHAPTER XX111.
A MONTH OF WANT.
Days of Anxiety-BManganja Blood-AManganja and Waiyau-Artisans-Native Agriculture-Beautiful Scenery-Iron Trade-An Elephant Hunter
-Difficulties-Carriers-Livingstone's Love for Nature-Memories-No
Food-A Splendid Valley of Lilies-Stockades-Sunday at Zeore-RainMaking-The Slave Idea in East Africa-Hedges of Bamboo-Bark Cloth
-Huts for the Spirits of the Dead-Contrasts in Character-Forests and
Rains-Beautiful Animals-The Zebra very Beautiful-The LoangwaBad for Worse-The Babisa-A Miserable Set-Sorrows Multiplied-A




/14                         CONTENTS.
1Mopane Forest-Nyarmazi-Trading with a Woman-Loss of Goats-Ex.
perience with a Guide-The Hills Again-Bee Hunters-Want, Want,
WaVnt!-Noble Utterances-" Always Hungry "-Elephant HuntingSword c tl nting-Desolate Land-No Bread-Hunger-Escape from a
Cobra-The Loss of the Dog-Mushrooms-All the J3edicine Lost-The
Worst of All-Livingstone's Gentleness-" Real Biting Hunger "-Beads
as  Currency-The  Chambese at Last....................................................  482
CHAPTER XXIV.
FROM LAKE TO LAKE.
Chitapanga's Stockade-An Offering Required-Audience with the ChiefCeremony of Introduction-Chitapanga as he was-Some Trouble-Lying
Interpreters-Arab Traders-Letters Sent Home-Quits Chitapanga'sThe Chief's Parting Oath-Appearance of Country-Troublesome Customs
-Suspicion of the Chiefs-A  Familiar Trick —Eagerness for TradeAMoamba at Home-Chief and Judge-The Moemba-The Hopo-Bows
and Arrows-Illness —Kasonso's Reception-Assaulted by Ants-Cottonr
-Lake Liemnba —Palm  Oil —The Balungu -Severe Illness-ArabsChitimba's Village-A Long Delay-Nsama-The Baulungu-Industries
— Cupping-Charms-Dull Life —Slave-Trade-Little Things-A  Large
Spider-At Hara-Reception at Nsama's-A Bride in Style-" Tipo Tipo "
-" Kumba Kumba " —Itawca-Desertion-Slavery Question-Different
Motives-Arabs on the March-Arab Traders-A Fantastic Party-Potency
of Sneers in Africa-Delays-Lake Moero at Last................................. 507
CHAPTER XXV.
A MONTH WITH CASEMBE.
Mloero-Bound for Casembe-Kalongosi-Abundance of Fish-Dr. Lacerda
-The Balonda-Enter Casembe's Village-Graciously Received-AMohamad bin Saleh-Notes from Journal-Zofu, King's Fool-" Casembe,"
General-His Character-Customs-Land Claims-Hand-Shaking-Letter
to Lord Clarendon-Descriptive Resume6-Sickness-Leaves CasemrbeBound for Ujiji —Iohamad bin Saleh his Companion-Hunger-Illness
-Last Day of 1867-A Touching Record.......................................... 537
CHAPTER XXVI.
1868.
" Only Water "-Native Indifference —-Charms of Moero-Lake SceneryIndifference of Arabs-Covetousness-The    Only Lesson Learned-Kabwabwati-Dreadfiul March-Evils of being with Arabs-Livingstone's Influence-Thieving Slaves-A Dead Halt-Long Delay-Yankees of Africa
-Duplicity of Mohamad-Desertion of Followers-Livingstone's Charity
-Questionable Charity-Justice as well as Mercy-Arab Trouble-makers
-Mohammedanism Not Taught-Not Adapted to Elevate HeathenChristianity a Missionary Creed-Powerlessness of Ceremonies-Power of
the Word-Africans Curious and Cautious-They Need the Gospel —Obligation of Christians-Dulness of Kabwabwati-Livingstone turns SouthArrives at Casembe's-Cordial Reception-Pleasing Recollections-Deliverances-Leopard Hunt —A Discovery- Cropped-Earedl Pest —Casembe's




CONTENTS.                              1 5
Kindness —Mohamad Bogharib-Starting for Lake Bemba-Discovery of
the Great Lake-Description of it-Lake Surroundings —WanyamweziNorthward Again - Commotions-War - Delays-Reach KabwabwatiAbominations of Slave-Trade-Battle-Evils in Camp-Wanyamwezi
Women During a Battle-Weariness-Christmas, January 31st, 186.....5...   57
CHAPTER XXVII.
UJIJI.
Severe Illness-Thoughts and Memories-Some Good in All —Mohamad Bogharib's Kindness-Dr. Livingstone too Ill to Walk-Sufferings in beilng
Carried-Arrival at Ujiji-Hardships Endured-Disappointment-Goods
Stolen-Ujiji-Products of the Distriet —MAarket-Place-Wajiji's Salutations-Head Ornamentation-Formal Introductions-Tattooing-A Representative Wajiji-Ornaments-Superstition-Superstitious Custolls-Refusal to Carry Letters-A Den of Thieves-Thani bin Suellim-Maiyuema
Country — Religiously Villanous? - Bambarre - Expert Hunters - The
Great Chief- The Covenant of Peace-How Arabs keep CovenantsMiockery of Superstition —"Liliputian AMonsters "-A Pygmean BattleAmazed at Guns-An Elephant Itunt-Unsatisfactory.......................... 479
CHAPTER XXVIII.
MANYUEMA.
Manynema Country-The Paramount Chief-Independent Villages-Livingstone's Object-Leaves Bambarre-Westward —Splendid Scenery-Villages-Architecture of Manyuema-Character of the People-Hidden
Villages-Curiosity of Villagers-Evil Influence of Traders-Prejudices
Aroused —Return to Bambarre-Ujiji Hood —Five.:Ihundired Guns-Livingstone's Companion-Sets out from Bambarre Second Time-Appearance
of Country-Huts in Trees-Elephant Traps-Bloody Feuds-Omnipresent
Love-Newly Married Couple-Dreadful Swamps-Timely HospitalityPromise of Letter-Hindered Again-Slave-Traders' Barbarities —Dreadful
Murders-Katoma's Camp-Deserted by Followers-Three only Faithful
-Singing Frog-A Nursing Fish —Musicians-Livingstone's ResolutionChuma, Susi and Gardner —A Man Killed —Meets M'ohamad BogharibA New Affliction-Disappointmenit-Return to Bambarre-Long Sickness
-Manyuema Dreadful Cannibals-Bloodthirsty-Delight in MurderThe Soko-Soko Hlunt-Soko and Leopard-Soko and Lion-" Soko is a
Man "-Impatience-Despondency-Hope Revived —Men and Letter Arrive from Zanzibar-New Difficulties-Trouble with New Men-Another
Start-Conscienee Clear —His Pla n-His Longing-A Young Soko —Onl
New Ground - Charming Scenery-Village Happiness - Trials - The
Lualaba at Last..............................................O.......... 496
CHAPTER XXIX.
FOUR MONTHS AT NYANGWE.
The Lualaba-Abed and Hassani-The Temper of the Traders-Livingstone's
Situation-The Difficulty —Writing MIaterials-Nyangwe AMarket-Women
-Old and Young-The Market Scenes-Eagerness for Barter-Independenee of Women-Ten Human Skulls-Cannibalism-Difficulty of get



1 6                          CONTENTS.
ting a Canoe-Ivory-The Bakuss-A Characteristic Manceluvre-Bakluss
Opinion of Guns-Arabs' Idea of Business —A Fiendish Plot-DugumbeNo Assistance-Wonderful Underground Houses-The People of Rua"Ileartbrokenness "-Disappointed Utterly-Beautiful Picture Blighted
— Dreadiful Slaughter-Three Hundred and Forty Dead-Superwiekedness
-Too Much to Bear-Resolved to Return-Irmportuned by the NativesDetermined-Providence in the Disappointment-Providence in all Things
-Precious Interests-A  Despatch-James Gordon Bennett, Jr.-Henry
M. Stanley.........................................................................................  618
CHAPTER XXX.
THE DELIVERANCE.
Mr. Stanley at Zanzibar-Selecting Followers-African Currency-Curiosity
Unsatisfied-" Speke's Faithfuls "-Bagamoyo-The Mrima-The Frontier of Barbarism-The Baloch-The Wamrima-The Half-Caste ArabReception at Bagamoyo-The Jesuit Mission —Mr. Stanley's House —
Great Preparations-BMr. Stanley and others-The Route Selected-On the
March-First Hunt-The Wakwere-The Wadoe —Beautiful Scenery"Envious Evil"-The Waseguihha-Handsome Savage-The WagogoDeath and Marriage-Penalties of Murder and Theft-News of Dr. Livingstone-A Difficulty-Murder Attempted —Providence............................. 642
CHAPTER XXXI.
TUNYANYEMBE.
Traditions of Unyamwezi-The Appearance of the Country-The Soil"Fairy Mounts " —Villages-The Wanyamwezi-Sons of Ham-Lovers of
Music —Maiden Fondness for Display-Tea-Parties —Matronly GossipThe Club-Rooms-Masculine Vanity-Home Life in Unyamwezi-The
Houses-The Furniture-Dining Hall-" Sweet Earth — Popular Prejudices-Food of Wanyamwezi-Family Affection —Woman's Rights —Love
and Law-Wanyamwezi, their Prominence-Great Travellers-The " Carriers"' of East Africa —Varying Character-Unyanyembe Central Province
-Arab Settlement-Mr. Stanley's Reception-Sayd bin Salim-Stanley's
House-Munificent Hospitality-Visitors from Tabora-Tabora VillageArab Luxury-Prominent Arabs of Tabora-Mr. Stanley Visits Tabora
-The Council of War —Mirambo-An iUnhappy Alliance-SicknessClimate of Unyanyembe-The Battle Array-Disaster and Retreat-Glad
to Quit-Tables Turned-The " Flying Caravan " —A Weeping Lover-On
the March Again-Mangara-Grand Reception of Chiefs-A Jolly TimeThe Ammonia Bottle Uncorked-An Impression Made-Splendid GameParkl-Two Days' Hunting-Trouble in Camp-A Revolt-A Dreadful Plot
-The Pledge-Mrera.................................................................... 660
CHAPTER XXXIL.
THE MEETING.
Approaching Each Other-The Spirit of the Man —"A Good Heart"Adequacy of Christian Kindness-Africa for Christ-Effigies of Men-A
Lesson Learned —Mistake the Man-The Ambuscade-A Third Deliverance-A Good Omen-No Vengeance-The Leopard-W-heary and Indif



CONTENTS.                             1-7
ferent-Painful Reflections-" Little Better than a Skeleton "-Dreadful
Disappointmentt-The Good Samaritan-Mr. Stanley's Caravan-" That
23d Day of October "-Good News-A Forced March-The Tagangyika
at Last-The First View of the Lake-Special Charms for Stanley-The
Approach-" Good-Aorning, Sir "-" Who the Mischief are You? "-The
Meeting-The Conversation-The Revelation Made-" God Never Failed
Hiu "-The Best Medicine-A Cruise on the Lake-No Outlet Found"I Must Finish  my Task."............................................................ 677
CHAPTER XXXIII.
A JOURNEY AND A DELAY.
From Ujiji to Unyanyembe-Livingstone a Companion-Route AdoptedForest Entertainment-Methods of Hunting-Makombwe Hunting Hippopotamus-Baker's Rhinoceros Hunt-Wild Race-"A Horse! a Horse! "
-Sword wins the Day-Stanley as Hunter-Tent-Life-Arrive at Kwihara
-Home-Life-Busy Preparations-Livingstone Abundantly Provided for
-Farewell of Wanyamwezi-A Wild Dance-The Farewell Song-The
Parting-Bagamoyo Again-The English Expedition-Oswald Livingstone-Caravan Sent Back-The Mission Completed-England, Livingstone, Stanley, the World-Comfort in Disappointment-Livingstone in
Unlyanyembe-His Occupation-His Modesty-His Zeal for MissionsThe Country Inviting-A Robinson Crusoe Life-The Mothers of the
Country-The Call to Missionaries-"Advice to Missionaries "-" No Jugglery or Sleight-of-hand "-Livingstone's Interest General-Grasp and
Minuteness-Suspense Ended-Stanley in England-The Queen's Acknowledgment........................................................................................... 700
CHAPTER XXXIV.
THE LAST JOURNEY.
The Plans of Livingstone-Route Proposed-The March Begun-Livingstone's Carefulness of Observation-A. Reliable Observer-Indifference of
Livingstone to Danger-A Charmed Life-Better Judges-A Midnight
Encounter-The Old Disease-The Shores of Tanganyika-Cotton Cultivated-Hunting a Business-Ominous Silence-Lake Liemba-The Slave
Trade-Zombe-Beneficent Disappointments-Donkeys and the TsetseThe Kalongosi-Nsama and Casembe-Flood and Flowers-Beautifiul
Emblems-A  Flooded Country-Great Hardships-Fording'RiversLivingstone Carried by his Menl-Island Villages-The Last BirthdayResolution - Sufferings and Longings —Six Feet Rain-Fall! —FishesSinking PRapidly-Utterly Exhausted —Kindness of Muanazawamba-The
Last Written Words-Carried on a Kitanda-The Last Mile-The Last
]Words-Death....5............................................................................ 725
CHAPTER XXXV.
BURIAL AT WESTMINSTER ABBEY.
The Acknowledgment-Anxieties of the Men-The Council-Chuma and
Susi-Chitambo's Kindness-Native Honors to the Dead —Hut where the
Body was Prepared-The Materials for Preparing the Body-A Special
2




18                           CONTENTS.
Mourner-The Embalmment-The Inscription-Preparation for Departing
-Promises of Chitambo —Route of Boys-Severe Trials-The LuapulaCrossing-An Old Servant-An Accident-Native Surgery-"An Unfortunate Affair " —The Fight-The Results-The Excuse-Objection to Flags
-The Kalongosi-In the Old Path-The Lake-New  Scenes-Easier
Route to Unyanyembe-The News Received-Resolution of the MenJustifiable Deception-A Dreadful Snake-Arrival at Bagamoio-The
Precious Freight-The Kilwa-Reception in England-IdentificationBurial...........................................................................................  752
APPENDIX.
Discouragements-Recent Successes of Explorers-Revival of InterestCommercial Importance-Familiar Trees of North and West Africa-Tropical Africa-General Appearance-South African Forests-Lumber Exports-Excellence of Soil-Cotton, Coffee, etc. —Mineral Resources-Gold
hiines-Copper Mines-Diamond Fields-The Ivory Trade-Commerce of
West Coast-The Slave Trade-Baker's Work-Slave Traders ClassifiedSlaves Classified-Sources of the Trade Classified-Total Annual Traffic in
Slaves-Theories for Suppression-The Tendency of Events-Not an Abstract Question-Slavery has had its Mission-The Nations Against ItProvidence in the Revolution-The Nile-Baker-Speke-LivingstoneMissions-The Former Successes-General Influence-The Prospect......... 787




LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
1. PORTRAIT OF DR. LIVINGSTONE. (From a photograph)...Frontispiece   2
2. EGYPTIAN   ARCHWAY.........................................................                                      25
3.    AMAZON   WARRIORS......................................................................   35
4. RIVALS...................................................................................   39
5. ABYSSINIAN  HORSEMAN.................................................................    41
6. FARMI SCENE  IN   THE  CAPE  COUNTRY.......................................    49
7. ENCOUNTER  WITH                    HE   LION........................................................    55
8. DRIVING   GAMnE.............................................................................    61
9. THE PIT.........................................................................................  65
10. BUSHMAN'S  CAMIP........................................................  I.69........    69
11. M      ISSION   STATION, KOLOBENG.........................................................   75
12. IOUSErS..............................................7................................    77
13. SEBITUANE............................................................................   81
14. SHOOTING   OSTRICH................................................................             89
15. LAND OF CUMMINGS' FAMOUS HUNTS...............................          93
16. BAKALAHARI  FEAST.....................................................................    93
17. THE   GIRAFFE.............................................................   99
18. SCENE  ON   THE  LEEAMBYE..........1................................................  109
19. WAR-DANCE   BY   TORCHLIGHT....1................................ 113
20. HIPPOPOTAMI  AT  HOME.......................................................... 123
21. LION ENCOUNTER............................................. 127
22. AFRICAN   LION................................................... 131
23. AFRICAN   BUFFALOES...................................... I.............. 137
24. BURIAL   PLACE.............................................................................  1 51
19




20                                             LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
25. A  VILLAGE  OF ANGOLA........................1.................. 163
26. HOME SCENE IN  ANGOLA........................                          167
27.  ST. PAUL   DE   LO ANDA.....................................................................  171
28. FISHING  SCENE  IN  ANGOLA....................................................  181
29. COMPULSORY SERVICE IN ANGOLA.........................181
30.  MOLE   CRICKET...........................................................................                                                      194
31.  KATEMA........................................................................................  205
32.  VICTORIA     FALLS.............................................................................  219
33. HEAD OF BLACK RPHINOCEROS........................................................ 229
34.  GNU..........................................................................  229
35. WIITE  ANT'S  NEST........................................................................ 233
36. STAG  BEETLE..................................                                                                                                    237
37. TAKING  HIPPOPOTAMUS FROM  THE WATER....................................    243
38. HIPPOPOTAMUS TRAP....................................                                         243
39.  SURPRISED    BY   BUFFALOES............................................................   251
40.  RHINOCEROS   CHARGE....................................................................    269
41. SHOOTING RHINOCEROS............................                                                                                                   273
42.  ANT   BEAR....................................................................................  2855
43. CHIFURA  AND  KANGOMBA.............................................................. 285
44. CRICKET......................................................................... 321
45. DENIZENS OF THE SHIRE...................................                             327
46.  ZULU    TRADERS.....................................................................                                                            333
47. ZULU  LAWYER................................................................................ 337
48. A JUNGLE SCENE-LEOPARD AND ANT-EATER.......................... 345
49.  THE   GREAT   BAOBAB......................................................................                                                      355
50.  MONKEYS   IN    TIEIR     ELEMENT.......................................................  365
5.  CARACAL........................................................................................  371
52. FLAMINGOES ON  TIHEIR  NESTS.....................................................                                                               371
53.  ZULU    W OMEN............................................................................                             375
54.  PALM     TREE..................................................................................                                375
5.    IANGANJA     BELLE..................................................................  385
56. A  CAFFRE  BRIDE........................................................................... 385




LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.                                                                   21
57.  CROCODILE   OF   NYASSA............................................................... 405
58. GRAVE OF MRS. LIVINGSTONE.............................. 409
59. MISSION   CHAPEL  ON   THE   SHIRE..................................................... 414
60. AFRICAN   JUNGLE.......................................................  423
61. SLAVERS REVENGING  THEIR  LOSSES................................. 435
62. LEFT   TO   THEIR   FATE......................................................                               439
63. AXE, etc.............................................. 445
64. ADZE, etc.................................................................................... 462
65. KNIFE  AND ASSAGAI HEADS.............................                   467
66. BECHUANA   KNIVES..............................                                                                            467
67. APRON.......................................................................................... 467
68. ORNAMENTS  MADE   OF  MONKEYS' TEETH.......................................  467
69. ANT  HILLS................................................  4 77
70. ZEBRAS.......................................................................................   491
71. SWORD   HUNTING............................... 499
72. CHITAPANGA RECEIVING  DR. LIVINGSTONE..................................                                                     509
J3. SCENERY   NEAR   LAKE   LIE                        BA........................................................ 517
74. ARRIVAL  OF  HAMEE'S  BRIDE......................................................... 529
75.  CASCADES  OF  THE  AEASY......................................... 541
76.  CASEMIBE   IN   STATE   DRESS............................................................    49
77. A   FOREST  GRAVE.......................................................................... 556
78. SCENE   ON   LAKE   MOERO.............................................................                                     559
7 9. CAFFRE   LEOPARD   HUNT................................................................ 569
80. SURPRISED BY ELEPHANTS.                                                                                                     569
81. MOUNTAIN   OF                   ONKEYS.................................................................     583
82. FLIGHT   OF  LOCUSTS.......................................................    583
83. CHUMA   AND   SUSI....................................... 603
84. MANYUEMA HUNTERS KILLING SOKOS (from a sketch by Dr. Livingstone).........................................................................................  611
85. NECKLACE MADE OF HUMAN FINGER-BONES.......................                                                                   617
86. PORTION OF LIVINGSTONE'S JOURNAL WHEN WRITING-PAPER AND
INK   HAD   FAILED..........................................................    621




22                               LIIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
87. MIDNIGHT  CONFLICT  WITH  A  LEOPARD....................................... 631
88. MASSACRE OF THE MANYUEMA WVO1MEN AT NYANGWE.................. 635
89. HUNTING HIPPOPOTAMI............................                                                     649
90. THE MANYUEMA AMBUSCADE............................. 681
91. A  DANGEROUS  PRIZE..................................                                                685
92. FOREST  SCENE............................................................. 689
93. STANLEY  MEETING  LIVINGSTONE..............................................                         695
94. RHINOCEROS  HUNT.....................................................................  705
95. WANYAMWEZI FAREWELL  DANCE............................................. 711
96. AN ENCAMPMENT..                                                                                      711
97. "THE  MAIN  STREAM   CAME  UP  TO  SUSI'S  MOUTH.".................                                    733
98. FAC  SIMILE  OF  LAST  JOURNAL  ENTRY.......................................... 739
99. THE   LAST  MILE........................................................................... 745
100. EVENING-ILALA...........................................................................            749
101. TEMPORARY VILLAGE IN WHICH DR. LIVINGSTONE'S BODY WAS
PREPARED............................................................. 55
102. AN  OLD  SERVANT  DESTROYED.........7.................................... 761
103. LIVINGSTONE'S  MOSQUITO  CURTAIN...............................................                      761
104. KAWENDE  SURGERY.................................................................... 765
105. CATCHING  ANTS........................................................................... 765
i06. JACOB WVAINWRIGHT WITH LIVINGSTONE'S BODY AT ADEN........... 779
107. EGYPTIAN LADY......     799
108. HEADS...................................................................... G57
109. HEADS........................................................................................ 786




INTRODUCTION.
Early Civilization in Northern Africa-The Limit of the Ancient CivilizationTheatre of Mythology-Saracen Conquest-Settlement of Soudan-Mohammedan Failure-The Fifteenth Century-Gilianez Passed Cape Bojador-Portuguese Efforts on the West Coast-Roman Catholicism-The Failure-England
And France-Richard Jobson —Mungo Park-Denham and Clapperton —
Richard Lander Dispels the Niger Mystery-Kingdoms on the West-Da.
homey, Ashantee, etc.-The Cape Settlement-Vasco de Gama-The Settlement of Natal by the English-Lieutenant Christopvher-Abyssinia and the
Nile-Bruce and Dr. Beke-The Nile Mystery as it Stands-The UnknownLivingstone.
IN those remote ages, when the Mesopotamian plain is represented in Scripture history as little more than a wide and open
common, the northern shores of Africa sustained a powerful and
splendid civilization. "When Greece was under the tumultuary
spway of a number of petty chieftains, Homer already celebrates
the hundred gates of Thebes and the mighty hosts which in
warlike array issued from them to battle." Before the faintest
dawn of science had illumined the regions of Europe, the valley
of the Nile was the abode of learning and distinguished for its
incomparable works in sculpture, painting and architecture.
"And while Egypt was thus preeminent in knowledge and art,
Carthage equally excelled in commerce and in the wealth produced by it, and rose to a degree of power that enabled her to
hold long suspended between herself and Rome the scales of
universal empire."
Carthage sunk amid a blaze of glory in her grand struggle with
Rome, toward which falling kingdoms of all later time have
looked with envy. And the land of the Pharaohs, whose alternate splendor and slavery had been the admiration and astonishment of the ages, came also at length under the hand of the
Caesars. The fostering republic soon rekindled the fires which
the tide of war had extinguished, and Northern Africa was still
opulent and enlightened, "boasting its sages, its saints, its heads
23




24                ANCIENT MYTHOLOGY.
and fathers of the church, and exhibiting Alexandria and Carthage on a footing with the greatest cities which owned the
imperial sway."
But while the banks of the Nile and the shores of the Mediterranean were conspicuous in ancient civilization, the power
and glory did not penetrate the continent; there was only a narrow strip of light fringing the sea and the river, back of it there
was the mysterious and the unknown.
The traveller who ventured into that background found himself among wild and wandering tribes, who exhibited human
nature under its rudest and most repulsive forms. If le journeyed
far, there confronted him "a barrier vast and appalling-endless
plains of moving sand, waste and wild, without a shrub, a blade
of grass, a single cheering or life-sustaining object." Victorious
armies turned back from the borders of the desert as the limit
of the possible, and the intervening tract of alternate rock and
valley and plain furnished many of those fabulous stories which
have come down to us in classic measure and become a grand
theatre of ancient mythology.
Thither, according to Diodorus, the "ancients referred the
early reign of Saturn under the appellation of Ouranus or
Heaven; the birth of Jupiter and his nursing by Amalthbea;
the impious race of Titans and their wars with the gods; Cybele
with her doting love for Atys and frantic grief for his fate."
And there were placed the hideous Gorgons, and the serpents
hissing in the hair of Medusa. And thence came the stories of
those dreadful Amazons, "gallant viragoes," who ravaged all
the region and carried victorious arms, according to the historian,
into Syria and Asia Minor.
But mingled with so much fable the ancient writers had also
some just conceptions of this region, and many things mentioned
by Herodotus, Diodorus, and particularly by Strabo, who wrote
after the Roman sway was fully established over Africa, indicate
that greatest care was used in treasuring the scraps of knowledge
which floated up out of the deeper wilderness beyond. Yet that
wilderness kept its secrets so jealously that the diligence of
historians and the eagerness of explorers and the power of armies
were equally ineffectual in extending the range of precise knowledge beyond the narrow confines on the north and a limited




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SARACEN CONQUEST.                   27
extent of western coast. The light struggled to penetrate the
gloom, its blunted rays rested against an opacity, and rose in
towering brilliancy, and stood a while flashing like a resisted
sun, than paled and quivered and fell, and left the continent a
*heritage of darkness to the future.
*When the Saracen sway swept across from Asia, in whose
social system such marvellous changes had been wrought, and
established itself among the splendid relics and smoldering fires
so readily surrendered by the effeminate descendants of the
Greeks and Romans, an auspicious day seemed to be dawning
on the continent, the arts and sciences Awere revived on that consecrated soil. " Even remote Mauritania, which seemed doomed
to be forever the inheritance of a barbarous and nomadic race,
was converted into a civilized empire, and its capital, Fez, became a distinguished school of learning."  They introduced the
camel from the sandy wastes of Arabia. Paths were opened
through wilds which had hitherto defied all human effort, and a
trade in gold and slaves was formed with countries which had
been unknown. By successive migrations these descendants of
the prophet multiplied in Africa. Sanguinary disputes arose,
and the ill-fortuned sought refuge on the southern side of that
scorching sea of sand which had arrested the ambition of
Cambyses and Alexander. There, in the territory distinguished
on our maps as Soudan, these enterprising travellers founded
several flourishing kingdoms, whichi Europeans vainly sought
to reach until within a comparatively recent date. They founded
Ghana, boasting unrivalled splendor, whose royal master rode
out attended by obedient elephants and camelopards-a kingdom which, after various fortunes as subject to Timbuctoo,
Kashna, and Sackatoo, came to be identified in the present IKano.
And there was Tocrur, the Takror of Major Denman, the Sackatoo of our maps-in that early day enjoying an extensive traffic
with the people of the west, who brought shells and brass to barter for foreign trinkets. Then came Kuku, the Bornou of today. Farther south was the ancient city of Kangha, famous for
its industries and arts, which modern historians have recognized
in the city of Loggun, celebrated, by Major Denham, for its
ingenuities, its manufactures, and its witty women.
Along the southern borders of Soudan there were districts




28              MOHAMMEDAN FAILURE.
known as Wangara and Ungara, mentioned confusedly by the
early writers, whence the merchants are reputed to have derived
vast quantities of gold. The progress rested against the Alpine
range on the south, which divides Soudan from Guinea, and the
dwellers in those wild regions were branded as infidels, and the
darkness which repelled the light of Islam was made to cover
deeds of violence and blood, and treasures for the final day
stories of wrong for which there is no adequate condemnation in
human censure. West of the 3Niger there was an extensive region, hardly known to exist by the Arabians. On the east the
regions of Nubia and Abyssinia, which Grecian enterprise had
reached with ships, had received the name of Christ, and hostile
creeds can no more touch than light and darkness; and there
Awas an unknown wilderness on the west, there were despised
infidels on the south, and a hated creed in Nubia and Abyssinia
-Mohammedan altars in the midst. The splendors of this
foreign presence contrasted strangely with the native wildness
for a time, but it was not a corrective, assimilating light. It
was modifying, but aggravating. The cities were bright spots
unquestionably; so penal fires are bright, but earth is darker
for their glare.
Fitful efforts were made to explore the west from the inland
cities. | Settlements were effected from southern Arabia at various
points along the eastern coast as far down as Mozambique. But
Mohammedanism was the inspiration of Arab energy; Mohammedanism  possessed no inherent vitality.  The inspiration
gradually failed; barbarism gradually reclaimed its dominion
by the degeneracy of its invaders, and became intenser because
it was a little more intelligent. I The life which is not nourished
by the fruits of nature must gradually waste away and give
itself to feed that whereon it should have fed. The civilization
which does not assimilate the surrounding barbarism must itself
degenerate into its stimulant. The sun itself would be but half
a sun amid the whirling realms if it did not clothe them all with
its own brightness and make them helpers, giving as they receive. Aggression is the law of existence. The inefficiency of
Mohammedan civilization in Africa was the prophecy of its
decadence. The prophecy was only too true. The glory departed, and that which promised to elevate Africa became its




THE FIFTEENTH CENTURY.                 29
incubus: that which promised healing became a poison inflaming
and agonizing wherever it touched. The continent was involved
in deeper darkness-a festering barbarism-which gave off to
the world a tribute that cursed the giver and the receiver.
While the Crescent was resting with dazzling splendor over
Africa, Europe was in that profound apathy which attended the
"decline of the Roman empire, the irruption of the barbarous
nations, and the rude systems of feudal polity which were inaugurated. There was absolute indifference to all matters pertaining to science, discovery and distant commerce." Even the
naval efforts of Venice and Genoa extended little farther than
Alexandria and the Black Sea. Satisfied by the wealth and
power to which they had been raised by this limited commerce,
these celebrated commonwealths made no attempt to open a more
extended path over the ocean.
"About the end of the fifteenth century, the human mind
began to make a grand movement in every direction, especially
in religion, science, industry, and freedom. It eagerly sought
not only to break loose from that thraldom in which it had
been bound for so many ages, but to rival and even surpass all
that had been achieved during the most brilliant eras of antiquity. These high aims wer peculiarly directed to the department of maritime discovery. The invention of the compass,
the skill of the Venetian and Genoese pilots, and the knowledge
transmitted from former times, inspired all classes with the
hope of being able to pass the ancient barriers and to throw light
upon regions hitherto unknown."  Portugal, whose kings were
preeminent in intelligence and enterprise, was the first to obey
this new inspiration. Various circumstances conspired to fix
the eye of Portugal on the western border of Africa as the choice
field for research. The ancient expeditions had furnished very
limited and indefinite information of this coast, and even the
wonderful discoveries of Columbus in later years hardly excited
greater surprise and admiration than the voyages which so
rapidly scattered the mists which had hung through all the past
about the shores of Sahara, Senegambia, Guinea, and Lower
Guinea.
In 1433 Gilianez passed the Cape Bojador, and Portuguese
navigators were not long in reaching the fertile regions watered




30                PORTUGAL'S EFFORT.
by the Senegal and the Gambia; within forty years Portugal
had made settlements as far down as the Congo, and according
to the ancient maxim which gives to the victors all countries
conquered from infidel nations, had received from the Pope a
grant of full dominion in all lands which should be discovered
beyond Cape Bojador and in their farther progress eastward.
The capital of Portuguese possessions on the continent was fixed
at Elmina, and the king hesitated not to assume the pompous
title of Lord of Guinea. The new-comers, true children of
Rotme, appealed chiefly to their religion, in establishing their
sway. Baptisms were made by wholesale, which was the easier
done because the ceremony included the putting of salt on the
tongue of the converts, and this was a commodity for a taste
of which many of the poor creatures would have faced any sort
of formula. The Congo princes were particularly favorable
for a time to the new system; various courtesies were exchanged,
whole nations were Christianized by contract, the freest scope
was given to the missionaries, and these worthies seemed to
have been really animated by a very devoted and persevering
zeal. But they unfortunately put the presentation of beads,
Agni Dei, images of the Madonna, and saints, splendid processions, rich furniture, and solemn festivals of the church before the doctrines of the Bible. They sought to dazzle the eye
rather than instruct the mind, to secure an outward allegiance
rather than an inward renewal. The new converts viewed the
gospel only as a gay and pompous pageant; they had no idea
of the duties and obligations which were enjoined by the sacred
name which was pronounced over them. And naturally enough,
there was a tremendous reversion of feeling when the authorities began to interfere with some of those barbarous customs,
which were with them time-honored and sacred, thou.gh condemned by the church. The inquisition was brought to aid in
the promotion of that practical piety which ought to have been
sought by the faithful presentation of truth and the conversion
of souls; wars arose, complications multiplied. The missionaries toiled and endured with a heroism worthy of truer principles, but they failed. And the banks of the Congo, especially,
where their greatest exertion was put forth, retain no trace or
tradition of them.




ENGLAND AND FRANCE.                  31
"Portugal passed under the yoke of Philip II. of Spain, and
under that influence became involved in war with the D)utchl,
wiho had risen to the first rank as a naval people, and whose
splendid armaments successively stripped them of their most
important possessions on the African continent as well as in the
East Indies." In 1632, Elmina, their capital, the key to the
gold coast, fell into the hands of these successful rivals.
But the splendid results which had followed so rapidly
the revival of interest in maritime matters had attracted universal attention to the ocean, and that vast trackless realm
became the theatre where unrivalled wealth and glory seemed
to await the seeking. The gallant Hollanders soon found their
proud mastership of the seas disputed by powerful rivals.
England and France had come to the front in European affairs,
and were already pressing forward in a jealous race to surpass
each other and all the past. For a while their settlements on
the African coast were made with a view only to obtaining
slaves for their new possessions in the West Indies. Soon
there came wonderful reports of the gold-trade carried on at
Timbuctoo.  There was no hope of establishing a highway
across the desert from the north, and a company was formed in
England for the purpose of exploring the Gambia, by which the
geographical systems of the age warranted them in hoping to
reach the glittering treasures.  Richard Thompson, the first
representative of this company, after desperate engagements with.
the Portuguese, who still boasted their lordship over the region,
fell by the hands of his own men. But a better star guided his
successor, Richard Jobson, who, while falling far short of reaching
the far-faimed Timbuctoo, won, perhaps, the glory of being the
first Englishman who had an opportunity to observe the manners
and superstitions peculiar to native Africa. As he advanced, a
new world seemed to dawn on him. — All about him land and
water were inhabited by multitudes of savage animals. The
enormous sea-horses sported in every pool, herds of enormous
elephants crowded to the shore, lions and leopards moved about
among the trees in full view, and everywhere there were myriads
of monkeys going through their eccentric evolutions. Armies of
baboons marched along occasionally, and displayed their surly
tempers by horrid grimaces and angry gesticulations, as they




32             JOBSON AND MIUN'GO PARK.
watched the progress of the intruders. The appearance and
customs of the human dwellers in the region were in'keepingwith the utter wildness, and many were the wonderful stories
he had to tell his countrymen of the kindnesses and cruelties,
the fashions and follies, the graces and hideousness which he
saw, and the strange things he heard. But the goal was not
reached. Then, for a long time, the spirit of discovery, so far
as pertained to Africa, was dormant in England. And when it
revived a little in 1720, it was only to be assured, by the expedition of Captain Stibbs, that the theories of reaching the
interior by the Gambia had been only a delusion.
While the English sought to ascend the Gambia, Senegal
was the Niger to the French, the stream by which they hoped
to reach the regions of gold. They founded the settlement of
St. Louis in 1626, bhilt little was accomplished until 1697, when
Sieur Brue was appointed director of the company's affairs,
who made various journeys into the interior, penetrating as far
as Bambouk, distinguished still for its mines of gold.  But
still there remained the vast blank on the map of Africa, and
the fabulous stories of wonderful wealth came floating up out
of the unknown, while the remotest extremities of land in other,
quarters of the globe were being brought under contribution to
the general fund of knowledge and wealth.
At length the African Association was formed in England,
and introduced a new era in African discoveries. First, Mr.
Ledyard, a born traveller, who had sailed around the world with
Captain Cook, had lived in North America, and journeyed to
the remotest parts of Asia, was sent out, and died in Ergypt before even beginning the proposed journey along the Nile. Then
Lucas attempted to cross the desert from Tripoli; the daring
Major Houghton fell the victim of Moorish perfidy, while boldly
penetrating the continent from the mouth of the Gambia. Then
came the celebrated Mungo Park, who was destined to take the
front rank of all the travellers of his day, whose dreadful
sufferings, and unrivalled heroism, and unconquerable perseverance were as much matter of astonishment and admiration
as the discoveries he made, and the exploits he performed.
While Mr. Park was making his discoveries in Senegambia,
Guinea, and western Soudan, Frederic Horneman was sent out




MYSTERY OF THE NIGER DISPELLED.            33
by the association, penetrating the continent from the north.
Travelling as a Mohammedan, with various caravans he crossed
the dreary wastes to Mourzouk and thence southward, and
never returned. Various unauthenticated reports were made
by individuals claiming to have been shipwrecked and to have
wandered great distances inland, and seen wonderful things
and made wonderful discoveries. Several expeditions sent out
with high hopes and great expense were comparatively fruitless.
The patience and zeal of those who had devoted themselves
to this great work was at length rewarded by the very remarkable and successful journeys of Denham and Clapperton,
who crossed the desert from Tripoli and traversed the whole
region which so many centuries before had furnished a home
to the wandering-sons of the prophet. Timbuctoo, Kano and
Sackatoo were all called on to reveal their secrets. Kingdoms,
before unknown, took their place in history. New mountains,
lakes, and rivers, came out under the indefatigable labors of
these heroic men, as at the bidding of a magician. But the
course of the Niger, the mighty river which was found watering
those distant inland regions, was still unknown.  Park had
traced it only a little lower down than Boussa, when his splendid career was brought to its fatal close. It was to be the
glory of Richard Lander to dispel this mystery. The grand
problem which had perplexed Europe for so many ages, on
which, during a period of nearly forty years, so many efforts
and sacrifices had been expended in vain, was completely resolved. Park in his first journey reached the banks of the
Niger, saw it rolling its waters toward the interior of the continent, and theorists readily leaped to the conclusion, {' This must
be the Nile." The same traveller proved its continuous progress for more than one thousand miles. Lander followed all
its windings until it emptied itself into the Atlantic Ocean-a
discovery which was hailed with rejoicing in all Europe as
opening a highway to the most fertile and improved and
healthful portions of the interior.
From these settlements along the western coast various expeditions were sent into the country for purposes of discovery and
trade, and missionary enterprises found footing at various points.




34                BARBAROUS KINGDOMIS.
A chain of European forts were erected along nearly the entire
coast, but with the abandonment of the slave-trade by Great
Britain, and the vigorous measures against it, the territory
passed into the possession of a number of petty states, many of
which compose aristocratic republics, turbulent, restless, licentious, and rendered more depraved by their intercourse with
Europeans. But a little inland there are found in this tract
several powerful and well-organized kingdoms. Conspicuous
among them is Dahomey, one of the strangest kingdoms on the
face of the earth.  A kingdom which was begun in blood and
cruelty, and which has maintained its existence for more than
two centuries in spite of the terrible scenes continually enacted
-scenes which would drive almost any other nation to revoltthere, almost under the shadow of Christian mission stations, are
still enacted the bloody dramas of human sacrifices. Human
skulls are drinking-cups. And the horrid brutalities of the king
at home and the fiendish invasions of neighboring states are sustained by a dreadful army of Amazons, finding a Satanic solace
for the enforced sacrifices of their celibate state in bloodiest
deeds. There, too, are the Ashantees. hardly better than the
Dahomey.  South of Dahomey, just above the equator, in
Lower Guinea, are the Fans-the cannibals of Du Chaillu andl
Mr. Reade, whose horrid barbarism shocks the bluntest sensibilities in civilized lands. A land where even the grave affords
no security from the unnatural gluttony. A people "who barter their dead among themselves;" the rivals of the NiamNiarn in those orgies and wild dances on which Dr. Schweinfurth has cast such vivid light. Along the same tract, a little
back from the coast, are the Ashira, the Camma, and various
other tribes, whose strange customs enrich the volumes of Du
Chaillu. There, too, is the famous "Ashango Land."
Brighter spots are seen in the midst of the darkness: the
light of Christianity is established at various points along the
coast; and colonization enterprises have taken a hold which
promise grand results in time.
Leaving the western coast, we approach the Cape of Good
Hope, about which the contending oceans meet with a rage
which appalled the stout heart of Diaz; whose peaceful name
is a memento of the bold spirit of the king who could foresee
in its discovery the grander attainments of the future.




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CAPE COLONY.                    37
The Dutch, ever wide awake to the best chances, soon seized
on the Cape and began the settlement which has gradually extended over the Cape country, and made its impression on many
of the tribes of southern Africa, and furnishing, besides a foothold for the missionary, splendid opportunities to the sportsmen, and a starting-point for many of the most important explorations. Associated with this point we find the names of
Hope, and Barrow, and Lichtenstein, who shed the earliest light
on the habits and homes of the Hottentots and various Caffre
tribes. Hither came Campbell, and Trutter, and Somerville,
and Moffat, to deeds of love and heroism which have enriched
the literature of missions.
And hither, too, in later days came Livingstone, purposing
in his heart to do only as other men had done; chosen of God
to do a peculiar and unrivalled work, and lift the curtain on all
the hidden region.
While so much attention was being bestowed by European
nations on the western coast, the eastern had remained either
unknown or in the undisputed possession of the Arabs. In
1489, when Vasco de Gama had rounded the Cape of Good
Hope, he touched at Mozambique, Mozamba, and Milinda,
where he found the Arabs ruling in all their Mohammedan
bigotry. Cabrial visited Quiloa, and very soon the power of
Portugal had swept the ancient settlers from the delta of the
Zambezi. They quickly found their way up the river and
established the forts of Sena and Tete, and ultimately the city
of Zumbo, with whose ruins we will become familiar. From
these settlements several journeys seem to have been made into
the interior, extending some of them quite into the heart of the
region which came down to our time an unsightly blank. But
only the dusty unexplored archives of the Portuguese government can reveal the now useless facts which were so jealously
concealed when they wouldl have been welcomed by the world.
The same fatal policy which distinguished their efforts in the
west brought speedy decay of power here likewise. A government, over anxious for gain and unscrupulous as to measures,
and a church with nothing better to give than beads and crucifixes, and images, and solemn mummeries, can have no lasting
glory.




38                  THE EAST COAST.
The regions south of TMozambique remained almost unknown
until the establishment of the English colony at Natal. At a
comparatively recent date the earlier history of this settlement
was attended with most distressing complications with the
natives, but at length Natal rose so far above adversity as to become perhaps the most desirable field of emigration on the continent. The remarkable natural advantages have greatly assisted
the labor of industry and art in making this district the "Elysiumn" of South Africa. The tribes who surround the beautiful
homes and carefully cultivated fields and blooming gardens of
the foreigners retain none of their early hostility; cultivating
more the peaceful habits so well and wisely recommended to
them, they are rather pleasant neighbors, affording in their ignorance an ample field for the philanthropist and Christian, and
in their strange sports and rivalries entertainment unsurpassed.
But after Natal had been made to blossom as a rose, there still
remained a considerable extent of the African coast vailed in
almost absolute darkness. All that vast region between Abyssinia and the equator was still the land of fable. This " terra
incognita" was believed to be the ancient Regio Cinnamonifera,
to have undergone great revolutions, to be possessed by independent tribes of Gallas and Soumalis, and to teem with aromatics, spices, myrrh, aloes, ivory, ostrich feathers, indigo, cotton,
and other valuable articles of commerce, yet it was still unexplored.
About the time that David Livingstone was taking his first
lessons in African life, Lieutenant Christopher, in command
of the Honorable East India Company's war-brig "Tigris,"
touched at several points on this coast, and made a few short
journeys into the country.
But the grandest realms of wonder here were just beginning to
absorb modern attention. The inquiry of the ancients was being
taken up with new enthusiasm. The theories of Pacy and the
Abyssinians and of Bruce had been set aside. A search for the
true source of the Nile had succeeded that for the outlet of the
Niger as the grand problem. And rivalling this more nearly
than any other question was the eagerness to know what lay be,
neath that vast blank which extended from the Cape Colony to
Soudan and from Lower Guinea to Zanguebar.












. —  - -'
AKYSIIN  OSEIN
ABYSSINIAN HORSEMIAN.








ABYSSINIA AND THE NILE.                43
The ponderous volumes of Bruce won highest praise for the
light which they shed on Abyssinia, that land of long-prevailing
mystery, where ancient credulity asserted that unicorns and
lions held their deadly combats, and dragons flapped their
scaly wings through air; that golden mountains towered toward
the sky, and river beds were paved with diamonds; and, most
of all, where Presto John, the priest and king, was said to hold
his court, a Christian Solomon of the middle ages; a land which
in the full light of history still engages peculiar attention; where
beautiful women and splendid horsemen bewilder the astonished
traveller with their accomplishments; and most loathsome customs disgust him; where everything is an astonishment; a
country which has come into distinguished prominence in connection with the sources of the Nile; whose lofty mountains
garner the showers with which it contributes to the great patron
of Egyptian wealth and plenty.
A host of travellers followed Bruce in Abyssinia; most notable
of them was Dr. Beke, who was the first to give the world a
imap of the regions in which the Nile sources were supposed to
be involved. The Blue and White Nile were soon brought into
notice, and the public interest deepened in the work. The
Pasha of Egypt entered the field with an expedition, which
started from Khartum in December, 1839, and was actively engaged seventy-two days. A second and a third Egyptian expedition was sent out; but still the problem seemed to become
more intricate. It remained for Sir Samuel Baker to discover
the Albert N'Yanza; for Speke and Burton to discover the
Tanganyika; for Speke to tell the world of Victoria N'Yanza,
and for Livingstone to trace the Lualaba through the Bangweolo, the Moero, and the Kanalondo to its junction with the
Lomame, and for a coming man to come in between and divide
or unite these various waters.
While all these efforts were being put forth east, west, and
south, various adventurers were traversing the northern shores
among the relics of ancient greatness, and visiting the sand-girt
cities of the desert; and from a thousand sources information
was being derived about this vast continent so long wrapt in
gloom. Only absolute darkness prevailed over the vast region
marked on the map, Unknown! Not only the curiosity of the




44                   THE UNKNOWN.
world called for its explanation, commerce called for it; there
might be vast treasures concealed there; there might be nations
easily advanced in industrial interests. Philanthropy called for
it: there were undoubtedly untold wrongs crying to the world
for redress: there were evils of ignorance and superstition
which might be mitigated. Science called for it: her commission
embraces the whole world, and while there is a rock unbroken
or a star without a name she must not rest. But, most of all,
religion called for it-Christianity-there were in that region
souls to be saved. The time had come, and a man came forward, little thinking of the future that lay before him; a man
whose joy it was to do what his hands might find to do, only
doing all for Christ; a man not sent but led, step by step. It
is this man whom we will follow up and down in the deep
shadows of that vast unknown; whose adventures we will observe; whose toils and sacrifices we will note; whose character
we will study; and by whose wonderful guidance we will find
out all the strange, astonishing, distressing, animating, pleasing
and important things the land can reveal.
The wonderful journeys of which we will read covered many
thousand miles; generally they will be found to lie in regions
where not the shadow of a tradition exists of a white man's
presence before. WVe will find tribes presenting every phase
of uncivilized life. We will find every wild animal which belongs to the continent represented.  We will find strange and
wonderful insects, and dreadful reptiles. We will read of
swamps reeking with pestilence, deserts and trackless forests,
rivers and mountains. Everywhere we will see a man alone,
often without supplies, with no adequate means of self-protection,
practising no deception; everywhere appearing in his true character; everywhere condemning vice and commending virtue;
espousing the cause of the oppressed against the strong; combating long-established customs, and proposing great reformations. This man we will see passing unharmed, and seldom
resisted by native force. We will feel that he carries a " charmed
life," that he is "immortal until his work is done."  If we observe carefully and weigh well his life, we will be wiser and
better than we are, besides the knowledge we shall gain of
Africa.




CHAPTER I.
BLANTYRE TO THE BAKWAINS.
Noble Names-IDavid Livingstone-Blantyre-Home Traditions-The FactoryCommon School-Latin-Love of Books-Be Honest-His Father-MotherScottish Poor-Bothwell-Conversion —Missionary Spirit-China-Medicine —
Astrology —Greek-Theology —Africa-Thorough Preparation-1840-Leaves
England-Goes to South Africa-Condition of Country-Cape Colony-Cape
Town —Algoa Bay-Port Elizabeth-Kuruman or Lattakoo-Dr. MoffatNorthward-Studying Language, etc. —Selects BMatabosa-Settles-Kindness
to the Natives-A Lion Encounter-Joins the Bakwains.
THERE are names that live, and should live. Like the men
who make them honorable, there are names which do, good,
carrying light and strength. There are names about which
systems, and histories, and ideal realms of wondrous beauty
are; which incite mankind to lofty enterprise, and impart confidence and fortitude and zeal. There are names which honor
a world's remembrance.  It is well and creditable for the
world that some men are never forgotten.  But of all, there
is no life-work brighter and truer and loftier than that in
the service of humanity, and the service of humanity is perfected in the dignity of Christian effort.  Among the securest
favorites of history, the worthiest are those who lived for
others, and loved and labored under the impulses of the
gospel.
Such a man was David Livingstone. His child-life was at
Blantyre, by the beautiful Clyde above Glasgow, in Scotland.
He was born there in the yer.,8 15.' The humble home entertained some proud traditions, treasured through eight generations
of the family. The young David listened with bounding heart
and growing spirit, while his grandfather told the histories and
legends of the olden time. Culloden was in the story. His
great-grandfather fell there, fighting for the old line of kings;
and "Ulva Dark," the family home, had been there. Old Gaelic
songs trembled off the lips of his grandmother, beguiling
45




46m HIS PARENTS
the social hours. There was the spirit of heroism in the
home. And among the traditions there were those of singular virtue and integrity. He classed the dying precept of a
hardy ancestor the proudest distinction of his family: that
precept was, " be honest." Honesty is a matchless birthright;
he claimed it; he was not proud of anything else.
His father was a man of "unflinching honesty," and was
employed by Montieth & Co., proprietors of Blantyre Works,
in conveying very large sums of money from Glasgow, and by the
honorable kindness of their firm his integrity was so rewarded
that his declining years were spent where he had lived, in ease
and comfort. He was a man who kept the hearts of his children. His kindness and real love were sweeter to them than all
that wealth sometimes bestows as its peculiar gift. Hle brought
his children up religiously; it was in connection with the Kirk
of Scotland. It is a beautiful tribute of his illustrious son:
"My father deserved my lasting gratitude and homage for
presenting me from my infancy with a continuously consistent
pious example. I revere his memory."
The mother of the man appears only, and passes from the
public view. She was a quiet, loving, industrious, self-denying,
praying mother.  God knows how to chose mothers for the
chosen men. This mother was the mother of a great and
good man. She was a women who, by her virtue and modesty,
and fortitude and courage, could bear a hero and inspire him
for his destiny. "An anxious house-wife, striving to make
both ends meet," found time and place to exert a true woman's
singular and mighty influence upon her little boy. WVe will
not presume to estimate the magnitude of that influence. We
will not say how much his home had to do with the singular
thoughtfulness and distinguished precocity of the child that
toiled all day long in the mill with the hundreds who worked
there. David Livingstone was only ten years old when he
was put into the factory. People ought not to despise little
factory-boys. He worked from six in the morning until eight
at night; that makes fourteen hours a day, and a child just
ten years of age. There were very good schools at Blantyre;
the teachers were paid twenty-five pounds a year. The schools
were free to the children of the working people. David had




EARLY STUDIES AND TASTES.              47
been in one of those schools.  HI-e must have been well
advanced for his age. The impulse that his mind received
in the common school was aided by the attractions of the
great University at Glasgow. Boys in the neighborhood of
great colleges have earlier and loftier aspirations perhaps.
Anyhow we are informed that a part of David Livingstone's
first week's wages went for "Ruddiman's Rudiments of
Latin," and that he pressed the study of that language with
peculiar ardor, in an evening school, from eight to ten o'clock,
during a number of years. There are many grown men who
mourn over their ignorance whose work does not fill fourteen
hours a day.
In those evening hours, with a little tired child-body,
Livingstone mastered the Latin language, and accomplished
much in general reading. When he' was sixteen years old,
he was quite in advance of his age. The diligence and selfcontrol of the boy was the prophecy of the man. At this early
age, too, the peculiar tastes and talents which rendered his
subsequent life singularly successful and vested his work
with sing  ularnterest began to appear.  He did not love
novels/:he loved facts  He was not charmed with the woven
fancies of quiet effeminacy. He delighted in stories of adventure  he was always glad top            tha;of the
historian and be led away from  fgmia y scenes to        new
andtthe.strange and.the -difficult. Ache hero spirit was in hbim@>,
This love of the new and eagerness for travel were tempered
and sanctified by an appreciation of the real and the useful.
He had delight in scientific books and experiments.
The home of his childhood was admirably adapted for the
development of noble character. There was a population of
nearly three thousand. The people were "good specimens of
the Scottish poor," as he tells us himself, " in honesty, morality
and intelligence."  There were all sorts of people, of course;
they were generally awake to all public questions; their interest was intelligent; there were some characters of uncommon
worth; these persons felt peculiar interest in the thoughtful,
studious lad. There were near at hand many spots hallowed
in Scottish history-spots with venerable associations. The
Scottish people love old associations; they treasure the dear




48        CONVERSION AND MISSIONARY SPIRIT.
memorials of the past. The ancient domains of Bothwell stood.
with open door to these respected villagers. David Livingstone
was one of the people, and loved these scenes; he knew their
history, all their old traditions were in his heart.
A youth, with the spirit of these associations and surroundings, fond of study, with abundant capacity, wanted only the
touch of divine grace, and his heart would bound to noble sacrifice for Christ; he would not think of himself. The time.came.
" The change," he says, " was like what may be supposed would
take place, were it possible to cure a case of color-blindness."
The appreciation of God's love was humiliating and controlling.
The freeness of grace engaged his gratitude and affection; the
fillness and magnitude of it was unanswerable, and constrained
him. There was no expression left him but that of a life given
in return. He gave himself to God immediately. He determined to give himself to the heathen. But it was not Africa
which he thought of. He was not like Park —he did not make
special preparation for Africa. He looked toward China; that
immense empire seemed to beckon him. He studied for China
and went to Africa. It is so in God's providence. Sometimes
the highest fitness for a place is attained indirectly. God orders
the preparation of his chosen. His ways are not like ours.
The practical man shows himself in the boy. Young Livingstone felt that whoever ministers to the souls of the people
must reach them through their bodies. He reasoned that the
confidence to be desired, as a spiritual teacher and helper, would
be most easily secured by attention to the humbler interests.
It is like seeking interview with a lord: it is easier if the
attendants are first won. Christ paid mucli attention to the
bodily necessities of people. So have all the best and wisest of
his servants. Livingstone studied medicine in preparation for
his missionary work. His first book led him "deeply and
anxiously into  the perplexing  profundities of astrology;"
and he only paused in his investigations when, to his youthful
mind, the ground seemed to be perilous, and, in his own words,
" when the dark hint seemed to loom toward selling soul and
body to the devil, as the price of the unfathomable knowledge
of the stars."
He would  wander, delighted  and  wondering, through




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AFRICA AND PREPARATION.                51
Blantyre and Cambuslang, collecting shells and stones long
before geology was as popular as it is now. As a specimen of
the help and encouragement he received, when the curious
child one day asked a quarryman, " How did ever these shells
get into these. rocks?" he was told, "When God made the
rocks, He made the shells in them." And when his honored
father found his preference for such study, he insisted on creating
a fondness for such books as "Fourfold State," by Boston,
"Practical Christianity," etc.
It is almost incredible that such varied and profound reading
as filled these early years of Livingstone could have been done
in the midst of such daily work in a factory. IHe really accomplished all of his reading by placing his book where he could
catch a sentence, as he passed backward and forward at his work.
Working continually in his factory, he studied Greek at Glasgow,
and Divinity with Dr. Wardlaw, by Mlis own manual labor
providing for his own education. It was a wonderful love of
knowledge and wonderful love of Christ which strengthened
his heart for such a work. What wonder that he expressed his
delight, when at last he was admitted a member of a profession
devoted to benevolence! How naturally he treasured most
fondly the recollections of Blantyre by the Clyde, through all
of his wanderings! It was a sacrifice for such a man. Africa
offered nothing. It asked for everything.  There could never
be a home there for himn; there could never be one anywhere
on earth. It is a serious thing to become a missionary. Christ
had no home. The missionary comes nearest to Christ in his
service, and he must come nearest to Christ in his sacrifice.
Livingstone did not go to Africa to find out Africa. He went....there to carry Christ to the ignorant and lost. The gospel
being his mission, he remained long enough in England to
make special preparation in the study of theology. It is a
mistake that the intelligence of the teacher should be graded by
the advancement of the learner. The very best preparation is
desirable for the teacher of the very ignorant. Little children
should have the most accomplished teachers. Don't send a
novice in Bible truth to the heathen. God is not in need of
such haste on the part of his servants that the man he calls for
a special work may not go about it deliberately. No time is




52               ENGLAND FOR AFRICA.
saved by rushing to the battle without one's armor and weapons.
Livingstone was right. He knew there would be all to give,
and but little to receive. There is great waste in missionary
life. A man does wisely to seek thorough development before
he sets out on such work.  Livingstone was a man with a
reasonable scientific knowledge, good medical education, a
student of theology-all pervaded by the love of Christ and
devotion to humanity, with a deep-felt call to the heathen.
This is the man who left England -forAfrica in. 1840.  He
was born in 1815. He was twenty-five years old when he
begain'{lhlis great work there. It was a life in the fulness and
elasticity of its vigor which he laid on God's altar in the
service of humanity.
The portion of the benighted continent which he selected
was full of interest and mystery. Stories of wonderful fertility
and tempting reservoirs of wealth had for a long time been
floating in the popular mind.  Civilization looked eagerly
toward the heathen wilderness.  Accounts, all indefinite, but
promising, of nations worthy of their sympathy, had moved
the hearts of Christians. The missionaries, who had gone
before, had but little more than built their fires over against
the gloom. Now and then a man would come out of the
deeper shadows, attracted by their brightness. These men
revealed the hidden want. It was that hidden want which
cried so loudly to the heart of Livingstone.  His Highland
blood was consecrated to Christ. He could not accept a service
which was less than heroic. He could not measure his obligations by apparent expediency and personal safety. The English
power on the Cape had, in God's providence, provided a footing
for Christianity on the unreclaimed  territory.  Light had
stepped on the coast of darkness; that was all. The radiance
must be guide through the gloom.  Livingstone rejoiced in the
undertaking. We will find that his work assumes the character of exploration. It was the work of Christian zeal. It was
the gospel in control of a man penetrating the "regions beyond."
The same gospel has been the unrecognized power in all the
histories, wrapping the world with the joys and beauties of true
civilization.
The Cape Colony is divided. The divisions are the Eastern




CAPE TOWN AND KURUMAN.                  53
and Western. Cape Town, where the missionary landed, is a city.
It occupies a splendid amphitheatre; three lofty mountains
describe an are about it. There is Table Mountain, rising nearly
4000  feet above the sea, Lion's Head and Devil's Peak.
The city nestles in their friendly shadows, and looks at itself
in the sea. There are 30,000 inhabitants, all sorts of people,
Dutch, English, Negroes, Malays, Hottentots, everything and
nothing. The streets are straight; they cross at right angles;
they are threaded by canals, along whose banks there are
rows of stately trees. The houses are flat on top; they have
great block stoops in front, where the inmates lounge in the
evening.  There are fifteen churches.  Mohammedanism  is
there, watching most jealously the intrusion of Christianity.
There is a good government, and the sects may quarrel securely.
They do it. It is a pity. All hearts ought to be united in
saving the heathen.
After a little while spent resting, Livingstone sailed fromCape Town around to Al-oa Bay, and entered the countr   It
Is well to look at it on tmap; itwill fix mnatters in the
mind. On Algoa Bay you will see Port Elizabeth. This is a
town of 3000 inhabitants, an English settlement, and the
principal shipping-point for the eastern division of the colony.
It is a door. Civilization goes in and out with its blessings
and the returns. There is a return for all service. Civilization has adventured its wealth in the service of barbarism;
enlightened  barbarism  has always reimbursed civilization.
The Church carries the gospel to the heathen at great cost; the
heathen receive it, and strengthen the Church. The sun loses
nothing by lengthening its rays.
Leaving the bay and the easy sailing, Livingstone pressed
on to the farthest inland station of the Society. This station is
called Kuruman or Lattakoo. It was the headquarters of Dr.
Moffat, who had spent many years in that region; whose
book, issued thirty years ago, is full of interest. This hospitable home gave a noble daughter to be the companion of the
missionary explorer.
ANow fully on the ground, Livingstone cast about him with
characteristic deliberation and courage and zeal. It is when
zeal is courageous and courage deliberate that great things are




54             STUDYING THE LANGUAGE.
accomplished.  Quitting  Kuruman, and the pleasures and
encouragements of home-faces and home-words, he sought an
abode northward.  There he denied himself all European
society six months, that he might identify himself with the
natives and learn their language, their customs, their habits of
mind, their laws and way of thinking. The tribe which Khe
had chosen was that section of the Bechuanas known as' Bak-,
wains.  The future rewarded the sacrifice he made andathe
labor he performed in those first six months. He bought, by
those months of toil, the key which unlocked for him door
after door in his subsequent wanderings. His home in these
inonths was at Litubamba; it was called then Lepelole. He
proposed to make a settlement there; but while he was at
Kuruman on one occasion, the friendly Bakwains were dispossessed of the territory by one of those native wars which arise
almost as frequently and unexpectedly and terribly in barbarous countries as the wild winds.
So after some journeyings hither and thither, he selected the
"beautiful valley of Matabosa," and removed to it in k8-3  He
immediately identified himself thoroughly with the people. It
was his nature and his theory to do so. The real interest which
he allowved himself to cherish in everything which concerned
them is the truest explanation of their regard for him and his
peculiar influence over them. If they were in want, he would
help to provide for them; if they were in danger, he would
help to deliver them. If we would give medicine to a child,
we give it a toy first. He felt that those people must receive
the truth like a child receives medicine. He made them  like
him by the love he bore them, manifested according to their
comprehension; then they would hear him in matters which
were strange and disagreeable. This spirit led to a very serious
affair only a short time after the settlement at Matabosa-an
incident which has gainibd peculiar interest latterly.  The
lions had become singularly troublesome, venturing on most
daring depredations in broad daylight. The cowardly natives
had surrendered to their superstitions, and bemoaned the misery
of their situation helplessly enough, when the killing of a single
one of their impudent neighbors would have relieved them
effectually. Under the circumstances, the missionary headed a




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ENCOUNTR VITN THE LION (page 53).








A LION ENCOUNTER.                   57
party which he gathered and went out to make a victim which
should be a hint to the presumptuous marauders. After several
failures, they at length discovered a lion sitting behind a small
bush on a rock. The deliberate aim of Livingstone reached its
mark, but had the effect of bringing the lion bounding upon
him. Quicker than it can be told, they fell together to the
ground, and growling horribly the monster shook him furiously,
inflicting eleven wounds on the upper part of the arm, and
crushing the bone into splinters. That wound was God's mark
placed on the man; it was that which thirty years later served
to identify the human remains vwhich were carried to England
as the body of Dr. Livingstone. The affair was one of a
moment; the death-shot had been received; the rage of death
was in the spring and first grasp of the beast; then he fell
over his victim, dead. Livingstone hadl earned the language,
Ilad learned to ride an ox, had acquired some skill as a pedestrian, and had learned the delights of lion-hunting. He was
prepared for his work, which was opening. The spirit was in
him, and the mark was on him: now he might go into the
wilderness. He attfached himself to the Bakwain tribe.
HEADS.




CHAPTER II.
1843-1850.
The Bechuanas-The Bakwains-Sechele —His Conversion-His Difficulties —
The Government-Baptism of Sechele-Cross and Crown-Difficulties of the
Work-Belief in Rain-Making-Drought-Noble Conduct-The HopoKindness to Livingstone-Livingstone's Spirit-The Boers-Slavery-Antagonistic Principles-Boers Hate Livingstone-Sechele's Resistance-Livingstone Accused-His Effects Destroyed-Going Northward-Desire to find the
Lake-Desire to see Sebituane-Sekomi —The Desert-Bushmen-Bakalahari
-Water-Sucking-Across the Desert-Difficulties-Salt Pans-The ZougaQuakers of Africa-Lake Ngami Discovered-The Lake-Sebituane-Guides
Refused-Sketch of the Zouga-Elephants-Trees-Fish-Bayieye-Kolobeng
again —Home-life in Kolobeng.
THE Bechuanas live in a country remarkable for its beauty
and fertility, a country abounding in herds. They are separated from  the Cape Colony by the Sneuwberg Mountains,
and beyond the mountains a pastoral district, where Bushmen and Hottentots have their wandering sway, and after these
the Orange river; just over the Orange are the Bechuanas.
On the left hand, which is west, is the Kalahari Desert; on
the right hand, which is the east, lies the Caffre territory and
the mountains.  The Bechuanas comprise a number of tribes,
whose chiefs have independent patriarchal authority.  These
tribes are generally rather in advance of their neighbors in
natural intelligence; they dwell more in cities, and pay more
attention to agriculture; they are more advanced.in the arts.
The names of Trutter and Sumerville are associated with
the earliest knowledge we have of this people.  These gentlemen reported the discovery of Lattakoo as late as 1801.
It was among these tribes that Mr. Campbell did his work
of love.  Rev. Robert Moffat had been there many years
before 1840; Lattakoo, or Kuruman, was his station.  The
Bakwains are a Bechuana tribe; their territory is north of
Kuruman.  Shokuane, the city of the chief, when Dr. Living53




SECHELE'S CONVERSION.                  59
stone was there, is about 250 miles from Kuruman. One
hundred miles may not be despised, in a country where all
journeys must be undertaken with one's eyes open to the
difficulties of forests and wild beasts and unfriendly people,
and where oxen convey you. The first settlement, 250 miles
in advance of the hardiest missionary effort, was no insignificant matter.  Matabosa, the mission station selected by
Dr. Livingstone, is only a few miles south of the city of the
chief. Sechele was chief. There is frequent mention of this
man in the books of travellers in South Africa about that time.
He stands out distinctly, in the meagre African history which
we possess, a noble specimen. He was a man of singular
intelligence and liberality, and grasped with avidity the rudiments of reading and mathematics, and handled these keys
with a masterly skill, opening readily the avenues of knowledge. He received the Christian teacher with all cordiality,
and was greatly delighted with the beauties of the Bible.
Isaiah charmed him; over and over he would exclaim, "He
was a fine man that Isaiah; he knew how to speak."
No wonder that such a man, coming to know the truth,
was full of amazement that Christian people had been so long
a time delaying to send his people the gospel. "My forefathers! " he would exclaim, "why did they not send them this
word? They all passed away in darkness." O that the reproach
of inactivity may be against us no longer! The " fathers have
passed away in darkness!"  The children! the Christian world
must vindicate the name it bears, by arising in the spirit
of the Master, giving wings to the word.
This noble man was greatly embarrassed by the incompatibility'of the demands of Christianity with the customs of his
country, and particularly with the relations of a chief. There
he sat, in the centre; ranged around him, circle after circle,
were his subjects, in the order of their dignity or family
strength.  The one bond which pervades the whole tribe is
that of marriage. The chief binds the stronger of the under
chiefs to himself by taking wives of their families; these under
chiefs in turn fasten yet humbler families to them in the same
way, and so on.
The whole tribe is a family; the chief is the head of the




60                 CROSS AND CROWN.
family. The missionary did not need instruct Sechele concerning the impropriety or sinfulness of some of his customs. His
own intelligence discovered his duty, and in the bitterness of his
struggle he cried: " Oh! I wish you had come to this country
before I became entangled in the meshes of our customs."
Here was a heathen chief. The chiefs under him were identified with him and bound to him by the wives whom he had
taBen. If he abandons polygamy he offends the under chiefs;
he shakes the whole tribe to its circumference. Two years and
a half he battled with these difficulties; the convictions of duty
were permanent; the sacrifice stood facing the service. It was
the old and ever-new Cross against the Crown.
During those two years and a half Sechele co-operated with
Dr. Livingstone heartily, and manifested much concern that the
gospel might be accepted by his people. Indeed, he proposed
to introduce it in true African style, by the lash of his whip.
Then, when discouraged from that method, he wondered and
grieved that only in this, where of all things he would have
them imitate him, his people despised his example. At length
the hour came; the decision was strong. Sechele asked for baptism, and, influenced entirely by his own convictions of right,
broke away from all those customs which he perceived to be
improper. He sent honle all of the wives except his first, and
gave to her his heart anew in Christian purity. This interference of Christianity with polygamy is one of its most unpopular
features in Africa. But the directness and nearness of Christian
approach to God, the setting aside not only of their customs,
but of their superstitions, is a still greater difficulty.
Most conspicuously among the Bakwains was their faith in
the art or power of the rain-maker.  Their country borders on
the desert; frequently they need water; the rains are withholden;
there are men who profess to bring rain; they administer medicine to the elements; they claimn the rain, if it comes, as brought
by them; if it does not come, then they argue, "No man is
expected to succeed in every particular matter." Now, Religion
says, Ask God for rain; they prefer to ask the rain-doctor; they
cannot see God; they see the rain-doctor; they see his medicine
bag; they are in trouble; they think their ancestors got rain so.
It is hard for them to decide; they cling to the superstition.




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THE DROUGHT AND HOPO.                   6.3
During the three years —the earlier years of Livingstone's
settlement-there was almost a continuous drought.  Sechele
had been a noted rain-doctor; now he would not do anything.
They felt that Christianity was to account for their parched
fields and famished herds and their own great suffering.  They
were slow to embrace Christianity.  To Dr. Livingstone they
would say, " We like you as well as if you had been born
among us, but we wish you to give up that everlasting preaching and praying.  You see we never get rain, whilst those
tribes who never preach and; pray have plenty."  Indeed, with
such impressions, there is no difficulty in comprehending their
feelings, if we can only realize their distress during those three
years-the rivers running dry, the leaves dying on the trees,
needles retaining their polish perfectly lying in the street, the
mercury standing at 1340 three inches utnder ground. Only the
long-legged black ants seemed to prosper,; they only deserve to
be said to live; everything else seemed ready to give up. They
toiled on, under the cover of recurring darkness, year in and
year out; somehow or other finding moisture for their mortar,
and rearing their singular mansions.  It was a mockery. Birds
suffered, beasts suffered, reptiles suffered, fish suffered, beetles
placed on the surface died in half an hour, man suffered; only
the chambers of these strange creatures were surprisingly humid.
It was a question for the curious.
Sechele's people did nobly.  They sold ornaments; the
women did that. There are women in Africa.  It is woman's
mission to arise to her noblest work in times which crush men.
It is the mission of African women. They sold ornamentsfor corn —to other tribes. The men resorted to the Hopo; this
is a mammoth trap, which is set for the giants of the wilderness.
If you look at the picture, it is easily understood.  It is made
of huge piles driven firmly in the ground, and boughs of trees
closely interwoven with the piles. There is a strong barricade
formed in this way; it extends about a mile.  At the point of
the V formed by these hedges there is a lane; at the end of the
lane a pit. The men easily enclose within these hedges a large
number of animals, which, terrified by the fiurious yells of the
hunters and their sharp javelins, rush madly along the converging hedges and the narrow lane until thre treacherous pit re4




64                 WANT AND BOERS.
ceives them. It is a wild, cruel scene. It is the.law of extremity to be cruel. The Bakwains are kind until they suffer; so
are people generally. Want is lawless. Through all of their
extremity Dr. Livingstone was treated kindly and wrought
diligently for their enlightenment and salvation. The work of
saving men is independent of their condition; men need the
gospel all the time. Dr. Livingstone recognized the difficulties. He knew that the uncertainty, the anxiety about the
things that perish, the lawful solicitude about food, was indeed
a mighty hindrance to his success. He did not suspend his
work, but he gave the sufferers his sympathies. It will, indeed,
be well when the Christian churches awake thoroughly to the
importance of seeking directly the improvement of the heathen,
not only in knowledge and in their social life, but in the conditions of bodily comfort and happiness.
The life of Livingstone is a lesson. He was a Christian.
He was a missionary. He determined to open a way that the
world might enter Africa; that the enlightened might lift up
the benighted; that the Church might address the people who
have been aided, who are stronger and happier for the coming
of the Church. But there was an obstacle to be confronted by
our. missionaries among these tribes harder to overcome than
prejudices, than customs, than wants. That obstacle was living.
It called itself civilized; it called itself human. It was in
human shape; it was encouraged by outside civilization. The
Cashan Mountains, just north of the Bechuanas, were occupied
by the Boers. There are people known as Boers in Cape
Colony; they are a very industrious, honorable class. These
are not like them. The mountains were formerly occupied by a
cruel Caffre chief; he had been expelled. The Bechuanas rejoiced too soon when the Boers came in his place. They had
too much confidence in white skin.  The Caifre had been
" cruel to his enemies and kind to the conquered. The Boers
killed their enemies and enslaved their friends."  They had
settled in Africa out of antipathy to the African. They cultivated their farms with unpaid labor. It was compulsory labor;
they were heartless in their methods of securing slaves. They
would murder men and women and burn a town to nmake captives of the children; the children grew up accustomed to the




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PERSECUTION AND PROVIDENCE.              67
yoke.  The tribes hated slavery, but were degraded by it.
It seemed inevitable. Sometimes people would sell their children. The inevitable becomes tolerable. Besides the degradation, there was the constant trepidation and absolute insecurity.
The shadow of those mountains became a decree of instability.
This hindered the missionary work; that was Livingstone's
work. Christianity and the Boers were enemies. The Boers
were the enemies of Livingstone; they did everything in their
power to prevent him in every undertaking. The missionary
would educate the people; he emancipated their minds; they
would become free and strong. Trade is the companion of
Christianity in heathen countries. Traders follow missionaries;
they followed Dr. Livingstone. These traders sold guns and
powder. The Boers were cruel to the weak, therefore they were
cowardly.  They dreaded the trader because they dreaded
powder and guns. They dreaded Livingstone because they
dreaded the trader. There could be no. peace. And when, at
last, Sechele arose in self-defence and killed the first Boers ever
slain by Bechuanas, Livingstone was denounced as the instigator of their action. It was then that the Boers destroyed his
house, his books, his papers, his all. They were determined
that he should not open the country. They set him free to do
it, and forced him to do so by tearing up his nest. They were
cruel to Livingstone, but God was kind to Africa. The missionary could do nothing under the Boers; he must go northward. If he went northward or eastward or westward, the way
he went would become a road, and the light would stream in
stronger and stronger. God's Spirit had made the missionary;
God's Providence was making the explorer.
Several years had been spent battling with these difficulties.
The labors of Dr. Livingstone had extended several hundred
miles eastward from Kolobeng. He had established an intimate friendship with Sechele, and other Bechuana chiefs, besides
gathering considerable information about the regions beyond.
But the beyond was across the desert. The desert was a difficulty. It was a heartless difficulty, but it was not human; it
was limited. There were no Boers on the other side; there were
only heathen, and the Lake Ngami. This lake had long been
an object of anxious curiosity to people interested in African




68           THE DESERT MUST BE CROSSED.
matters; and beyond Ngami, the home of a far-famed chief
and an intelligent tribe promised a most desirable footing for
Christianity. Sebituane was the chief of the Makololo. Sebituane was a really great man; his praise was on the lips of
other chiefs; he was a generous man. Dr. Livingstone longed
to know him and teach him of Christ. He desired to gain his
great influence and the strength of his tribe to the gospel. The
chief of the Bamangwato, the tribe just above the Bakwains,
almost between Sechele and the lake, knew a route to it, but he
would not tell it, because he did not wish the ivory of the lake
region to become accessible to the outside world. There was
only one thing to do. The desert must be crossed.
In this undertaking Livingstone was joined by Mr. Oswell
and Mr. Murray, both of them noted travellers. The formidable region before them was one of peculiar interest, though
peculiarly inhospitable. It was a desert that was not a desert.
There was only one want. That want was water. There are
trees and vines and grasses, and animals and reptiles and people;
but everything, from the men to the creeping vine, is searching
for water. The plants search downward, and send their roots
far beneath the parched surface; they must find moisture, because they seem to laugh at the sun. The animals are such as
can go long periods without water. Their sagacity discovers
the few fountains and pools which are here and there. The
human inhabitants are Bushmen and Bakalahari. The Bushmen love the desert. The Bakalahari love freedom. They
find the freedom in the desert which they lost elsewhere; therefore, they are in the desert. There are plants in this wilderness
which take the place of fountains. They bear quite a number
of tubers, which are filled with a cool, refreshing liquid; these
tubers are deeply buried far below the crust. They are betrayed
only by a stalk as large as a crow's quill. There are vast
quantities of watermelons in some years. Every living thing
in the desert rejoices when these abound. But there were none
when Livingstone's party was there. The human dwellers of
the desert use all care in concealing the few watering-places
which exist. Art helps the desolation. The women have a
singular method of obtaining water from these hidden pools.
They gather about the spot with their vessels, which are only




I.
~~~~. i~~~~~:
BUSHAN'S CAI  (page 61).
BIJSHM~N'S CAMIP (pagfe 61).








FOR THE LAKE NGABII.                 71
ostrich egg-shells, with a small hole in them. They thrust one
end of a small reed down to the water, and applying the lips to
the other end, suck up the precious fluid, which passes from the
mouth, through another reed or large straw, into the shell.
Thus they improvise a pump. WVhen they have filled a number of shells, they are borne far away from the spot to their
homes. Nobody finds water by finding the Bakalahari. Its
existence is accounted their sacred secret. It is because the
tribes outside can find no water that they are secure.
The Bushman's security is in his poisoned arrows, which he
uses with great cordiality when occasion demands it. The
Bushmen are manly-looking and brave; the Bakalahari are
mean-looking and timid. The weak and the strong, the brave
and the timid, have each their reason for chosing this home;
they find their interests identical, so they live together. The
Bushmen are hunters; the others live on roots and fruits, and
trade between the Bushmen and the world, with skins and
tobacco.
It was the 1st of June, 1849, when Messrs. Livingstone,
Oswell and Murray left Kolobeng for the Lake Ngami. Messengers had come from the chief of the lake country, whose
name was Lechulatebe, inviting Dr. Livingstone to visit him.
These messengers had brought wonderful accounts of the ivory
to be had there.  Their accounts stimulated the Bakwain
guides, though they did not lessen the difficulty of the journey,
because wagons could not proceed by the route which they came.
The party was furnished with oxen and wagons and guides
and servants. WVe can hardly convey an impression of the
picture. They slowly skirted along the desert, from pool to
pool. There were a score of men, twenty horses, and about
eighty oxen. They passed Boatlonama and Lopepe. At Mashue;
they left the road which they had followed, and struck out
northward, upon the desert. They pressed on to Serotli. It
was toilsome progress-the deep sand conspired with the
scorching sun. Serotli was only a sucking-place, and there
was the delay of several days before the party was refreshed by
its slow stream. There was nothing more remarkable than the
impatience of a guide, the herds of wild animals, and dissuasions
of Sekomi, who sent messengers expressing the greatest anxiety




72            NCHOKOTSA AND THE ZOUGA.
about them. Cupidity is a hypocrite in Africa and everywhere.
Sekomi feared Livingstone would find the ivory: he pretended
to be afraid he would be lost in the desert.
At Nchokotsa our travellers were entertained with a wonderful and charming illusion. Passing out of a thick belt of trees
there burst upon their view what seemed to be a beautiful lake.
The setting sun was casting a lovely haze over the surface; the
waves were seen as if dancing and rippling; the shadows of the
trees were true as life. The reward of their toil seemed at
hand. They were disappointed on finding that there was no
lake, no water-only a great salt-pan. The wonderful mirage
had deceived them. Over and over as they passed northward
were they deceived in the same manner. The object of their
quest was still far away.
At length they struck the river Zouga, flowing by the village
of Bakarutse. The people of the village informed them that
this noble river flowed from the lake. Now, then, they had the
thread-an unerring guide. They had water; success was a
matter only of days and life. When they had passed along
this river nearly a hundred miles, they met the hospitality of
the lake chief. The tribes had received orders to give to the
travellers all desired aid, and expedite his advance with all
readiness. The Bakoba was found to be one of the most interesting of these tribes. They are the men of peace, the "Quakers
of Africa." Their pride is in their canoes. All day they delight to strike their supple oars into the beautiful water of their
river; at night they love to sleep in their boats, safely fastened
in the stream. The river Tamunak'le flows into the Zouga.
The party passed its mouth; it flows down from "a country
full of rivers."  It was the 1st day of August, 1849, when our
travellers went down together and looked on the broad Lake
Ngami. The discovery of this lake was pronounced to eclipse
all preceding discovery in Southern Africa., This point furnished the key to all the lower portion of the continent, and
contributed greatly to the interest of African travel, while it
invited a deeper interest in trade. This discovery associated the
name of Livingstone with the noblest explorers of history.
This lake is estimated to be nearly a hundred miles in circumference. It lies about two hundred feet above the level of




ALONG THE ZOUGA.                    73
the sea. The water is cold and soft, and fresh when full; when
very low, it is a little brackish.
But after so much toil, the main object of Dr. Livingstone
was not to be realized at this time. As we said before, while
he was in fact an explorer, he had a loftier aim. He was a
missionary. He desired to see Sebituane, but Lechulatebe was
unwilling that he should go there, and refused guides, and sent
an order to the Bayieye to refuse passage across the river.
Lechulatebe was afraid of Sebituane, who had killed his father
and conquered his territory long before; from whom, indeed,
he had himself been ransomed.  The season was far advanced;
they could not go on. The party turned back and passed
leisurely down the Zouga, Mr. Oswell having volunteered to
bring up a boat from the Cape. On one side, the banks of the
Zouga arise perpendicularly; on the other, they slope away
gracefully, clothed with grass. Along these grassy slopes the
Bayieye have constructed pitfalls, in which to entrap the wild animals, when they come down to the water's edge to drink. These
traps are so carefully concealed that every now and then some of
the party would fall into one, though using all vigilance to avoid
them. But not unfrequently the sagacity of the lordly elephant
is superior to this strategy. The old ones have been known to
precede the rest, and carefully uncover every pit before allowing
them to go down to drink. These animals were found in great
numbers along the southern bank of the river. A beautiful
antelope, feeding in vast herds, attracted much attention. Its
noble appearance, with head uplifted, gazing curiously upon the
party; its full white breast; its long, curving antlers; the
splendid agility displayed as it went bounding away over the
undergrowth, were indeed charming. Magnificent trees adorn
the banks; their shadows are on the glassy surface. Some of
these trees measure twenty feet in diameter. They are crowned
with splendid flowers of various hues. Their wonderful evergreen foliage, drooping gracefully, presents most charming
retreats. They are grand, natural arbors.
When the eye falls from these majestic views, and wearies of
the feeding herds and rests upon the water, there may be a fish
just leaping into the sun, or a singularly beautiful and harmless
snake gliding along the shining surface. The Bayieye are fish



74               KOLOBENG HOME LIFE.
ermen, and eat what they catch. They make nets; strangely
enough, too, their nets are not unlike our own. They show
great dexterity in harpooning the hippopotamus. When once
their barbed blade has fixed itself in their victim, he has only
one of two things to do-the boat must be smashed or he must
surrender.
Returning thus, as they went, Dr. Livingstone and his party
reached Kolobeng, Mr. Oswell having gone on toward the Cape.
The journey had been accomplished; white men had looked
on the water about which untangible accounts had made them
so curious. There had been hardships, but humanity had been
served. The way was opened for Christianity. The inquiring
and generous sympathizers with the ignorant and degraded in
those dark forests had received new inspiration. The news of
this discovery had kindled a new interest in Africa. The hardy
missionary decided to spend the winter with his family in Kolobeng. But it was not lost time. His hands were full. People
generally have a poor idea of the real life of those noble few
whom God calls to forsake the leisure and comfort'f civilization for the toils and responsibilities of a foreign field. While
this noble man is waiting on the winter rains, we may look in
upon the home which he has made.
About the only facilities which Africa offers the architect who
works on the models of civilized life is material. The house
which he builds must be dearly bought with many days of hard
work. This was emphatically so of a home among the Bakwains; because they, however willing, have a queer inability to
put things square. Dr. Livingstone had to place every brick
and beam with his own hand. After the house comes the living
in it. The romance of hardship becomes very real in years. It
must be true benevolence which finds pleasure in the want of all
the conveniences of early experience. We smile quite seriously
to see Mrs. Livingstone going out with a large batch of dough
and depositing it in a great hole which the doctor has scooped
out in a great ant-hill, the only accessible oven. It makes one
tired even to think of the weariness and worry of improvising
everything; of manufacturing soap and candles and butter about
as Selkirk might have done in his loneliness. The city pastor,
imagining himself run to death with the duties of his position,




I9{I ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~- ----








TAXING MIND AND BODY.                 77
who hardly has time to buy his own coal, forgets that the man
who has volunteered to be his substitute under the command,
" Go ye into all the world," must add to the work of translating
or inventing a written language, teaching, preaching, travelling,
praying; the cultivation of his own garden, the duties of smith
and carpenter, the milking of cows, with the hundred and one
things not to be thought of except as they arise. Such was the
work on the hands of Dr. Livingstone, while every duty of his
had its corresponding duty for his wife. Then there are everoccurring acts of kindness, taxing mind and body, which the
noblest missionaries have considered a part of their duty. The
almost menial services for the natives, themselves unskilled in
the arts of comfort, are not a mean part of the work which falls
upon him. We must think of the great explorer passing back
and forth in the whole range of this extended sphere of activity,
from mending shoes to making Bibles, and ever cheerful and
resolute. We must see his noble wife gladly and proudly holding a hand with him in everything, if we would form a true
conception of the characters of the parties. And the man rises
loftily indeed in our appreciation, while we observe the dignity
and humility, the tenderness and the strength, the meekness
and the courage of his life.
HOUSES.




CHIAPTER III.
DESERTS AND FORESTS.
Livingstone's Second Journey to the Lake-Pass the Zouga-Forests-TsetseRecross the Zouga-Lake Ngami Again-Hopes of Seeing Sebituane-Guides
Secured-Sickness of Children-Return to Kolobeng-Opposition of ChiefsSebituane's Messengers-Third Start —The Old Path-Desert-Guide Wanders
— Five Terrible Days-Water Found-Banajoa-Guide to the Chobe-The
Mokolo-Meets Sebituane-Death of Sebituane-Discovery of the ZambesiReturns to Cape-Sends his Family to England-A New Tour UndertakenParty-General Idea-Former Occupants of the Cape-Boers of the CapeGriquas' Territory-Effects of Mission Work-Kuruman-Dr. Moffat-Bible
Translation-Language-War of Boers-Difficulties-Servants Secured-Starts
North-Lion-Buffalo-Sechele's Tour-Serpents-The Ostrich-MotlastaBelief in God-Salt Pans-Koobe-Famished Beasts —Livingstone's Kindness
-Tremendous Trees-Singular Vitality-Civilized vs. Native Hunters-Unku
and Sunday-Difficult Advance-The Way to Cut with the Axe-Wild
Animals-The Sanshureh-Linyanti-1May 23, 1853-Circumcision-Appearance of Country.
DR. LIVINGSTONE was not the man to abandon a cherished
enterprise; his resolution strengthened when difficulties iul,
tiplied.   He had discovered Lake Ngami, but he had not
seen Sebituane; he had not gained his great influence for
Christianity. He was determined he would not relinquish his
purpose. Accordingly in April, 1850, he began a second journey
northward. This time Sechele joined him; Mrs. Livingstone
also gave to the party the pleasure and singular interest of a
woman's. presence among explorers of African wilds, and the
helplessness and gleefulness of children made the lumbering
ox-wagons seem  like a home.  This time they took a more
easterly route, and instead of striking across the desert from
Bashue, as they had done before, Livingstone decided to go
through  the Bamangwato town.  The chief there, Letoche,
confessed himself to have been beaten by the success of the
Doctor in his former journey, and declared himself content.
Reaching the Zonga, this time the party crossed it, Livingstone designing thus to avoid the difficulty which he might
78




ALONG THE ZOUGA.                   79
again have in proceeding if he passed the ford and depended
on Lechulatebe to assist him  at the lake.  Sechele parted
with them here, being anxious to meet that chief. The party
then passed along the northern bank of the Zouga. Their
progress was slow and laborious. The great trees stood so
thickly that the wagon-road had to be made by cutting them
down, and the multitude of pitfalls proved a terrible affliction
notwithstanding all possible watchfulness.  The oxen were
sadly unfortunate inll combating with this difficulty; many of
them were killed or crippled: for although the Bayeiye were
friendly to Livingstone's undertaking, and would gladly uncover
the pits, they could not be always aware of his approach. Thus
wearily the party pressed on, until they reached again the
confluence of the Tamunak'le.  There a fresh barrier confronted them. There is a fly, called the tsetse, which infests
certain sections of the country, whose bite is singularly fatal to
domestic animals; it is absolutely impossible to pass through
such sections without the forfeit of all the oxen or horses. The
choice of the travellers was standing in the wilderness, returning, the tsetse, and crossing to the southern side again. They
crossed, and hurried along until once more they looked on the
lake, by whose border the engraving gives us the pleasing
picture of Dr. Livingstone and family enjoying the fresh
morning as peacefully as ever a family strolled along our
own lakes.
The hesitation of Lechulatebe yielded at length to the solicitations of Sechele and the offer of Dr. Livingstone's splendid gun;
the guides were promised, and arrangements were perfected for
the entertainment of his family. Dr. Livingstone was buoyant
in the thought of mounting his ox for the home of Sebituane.
The morning came; with it came disappointment. The stubborn chief had consented; a protest was entered with which
there could be no reasoning, which could not be bought over
even by London-made guns. The children both opened their
eyes in the morning, their little bodies scorched with African
fever. The servants soon were its victims. There could be no
debating; only the desert air would cool the fire in those swollen
veins. The second time the hero was foiled. They returned to
Kolobeng.




80                THE THIRD ATTEMPT.
When Sebituane heard of the attempts of Livingstone to reach
him, he immediately sent his messengers to the chiefs, with
presents, requesting them to render all the assistance they could
to the missionary. He sent thirteen brown cows to Lechulatebe,
thirteen white cows to Sekomi, and thirteen black cows to
Sechele; but though these chiefs were all deeply indebted to
Sebituane, and greatly dependent on his clemency, so great was
their unwillingness to have the remoter regions of the continent
brought into contact with the world outside that they still persisted in hindering the advance of Livingstone in every possible
manner. Even Sechele, whose friendship was a thing of years,
and fixed by his own conversion, took advantage of the absence
of Livingstone to allow all the messengers of Sebituane to go
back without him. The opposition was annoying, it was not
discouraging.
Waiting only for returning health, the party resumed their
travelling trim and set out on the third journey. We little
think, who so quietly talk of the light of civilization and Christianity spreading gradually over the entire earth, how stoutly
the darkness resists it, how heroically the pioneers of knowledge
and gospel hope have striven in their work. The track was
about the same as in former journeys, as far as Nchokotsa.
From there it led across a flat, hard country several hundred
miles. The salt pans, which so thoroughly deceived the discoverer in his first visit, and which are found quite frequently
on this broad plain, invite the attention of the curious. Here
too are found a great number of wells and never-failing springs,
among which the Bushmen were found-a friendlier home than
the desert. These precious fountains have their limit though.
Beyond them a wide and cheerless waste resists with its passive
strength the advance of the traveller. Before entering on this
dreary scene Livingstone secured a Bushman guide; the guide's
name was Shobo. Shobo did not excite their hopes; he was a
prophet of evil on the water question. It required more than
heroism-it required Christianity —to strengthen a man for this
awful undertaking.  As the party advanced the desolation
deepened. They had left all signs of life miles behind them;
there was only the sand. The single piece of vegetation was a
low, mean-looking scrub. "Not a bird, not an insect, enliv



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\\\ IMINI'
SEBITUANE-(page 69).
P~?% %                                                  -,~-`=~~iu~isp~mix~ age  9)








THE DESERT AND THE CHOBE.               83
ened the view."  Two days passed, then Shobo began to
wander; every now and then he would throw himself down,
crying: "No water, all country only; Shobo sleeps; he breaks
down; only country."  How shall we picture the agonies of
those days to the husband and father? Such a waste; a guide
whose mind wanders; the water in the wagons nearly exhausted;
the children crying for thirst; the silent emblems of inexpressible anguish hanging on the eyelids of their mother. Four days
passed. They laid down in absolute helplessness, only praying
for the morning which they trembled to see. The fifth day,
toward evening, some of the men returned to the wagons with
a little of the precious liquid. No wo0hder it was esteemed God's
best gift.  When the party reached the Mahabe they found
Shobo, who, with inimitable acting, assumed the dignity of
fathering the whole exploit, in the presence of the Bayeiye.
At Banajoa, the son of the head man volunteered to guide them
to the Chobe, in the country of Sebituane. They had exchanged
the dreary desolation for rivers and swamps and the fatal tsetse.
To the oxen it was escaping famishing, but death by a slow and
terrible poison. Singularly enough the bite of this fly does not
harm human beings. The wild animals of the country feed in
their midst unharmed; so does the ass, the mule and the goat.
The horse dies in a few days after being bitten, and cattle are
its hopeless victims.
At the Chobe Livingstone was met by delighted Makololo, who
conducted them joyfully to their chief. It is remarkable indeed
to find such a man in the heart of this long-neglected continent
as Sebituane. He was a speciman of the possible African man
which fully repaid the toil and dangers of this long journey.
Through varied fortunes, almost incessant wars, he had reached
the dignity of being perhaps the greatest chief in the country.
With the loftiest courage he blended a singular depth of sympathy and capacity for winning the hearts of his subjects. His
praises were sounded far and near. The people would say,
" He has a heart. He is wise."  He was delighted by the visit
of the missionary, and felt himself honored by the confidence
which was manifested in bringing his family. But in the midst
of his realization of his long-cherished desire this great chief fell
sick. Livingstone desired to treat him himself, but being cau



84                SEBITUANE'S DEATH.
tioned that, in the event of his death in that case, the tribe would
blame him, was induced to do nothing. Sebituane had become
greatly interested in the children of his visitor. When he was
dying, he raised himself and said to a servant, " Take Robert to
Munku [one of his wives] and tell her to give him some milk."
These were his last words.
The death of Sebituane again disarranged the plans of Livingstone. The chief had promised to go with him through his
country and select a suitable spot for a station. Now it would
be necessary to put up with considerable delay while a message
might be had from his daughter, who inherited the chieftainship.
This time was filled up by Messrs. Livingstone and Oswell, by
a tour to the northeast, where, after travelling some time, and
going, perhaps, three hundred miles across a flat country, varied
in its surface only by enormous ant-hills, clothed at intervals
with forests of mimosae and mopane, bearing the marks of occasional floods, they found the Zambesi in the centre of the continent-a broad and noble-looking river. Among the swamps of
the Zambesi and the Chobe were the homes of the Makololo.
Here too had the wretched trade in human flesh left its degrading slime. The garments of baize and printed cotton told the
story of the horrid traffic. While the heart of Livingstone was
yearning for this people, the demon was approaching. Had he
l een able to complete his first journey, he would have been on
the ground to resist the first approaches of this destroyer. The
Makololo, like their noble chief, despised the trade, and declared
they had never until then heard of people being bought and
sold. Indeed, in all Africa, it is the testimony of Livingstone
and others that the persons sold are only the captives which a
tribe may hold. It is a thing unheard of that a man sells his
own children.
The death of Sebituane and the unhealthiness of the Makololo
region made the desired settlement there impracticable. The
animosity of the Boers left no hope of peaceable labors among
the Bakwains. There was no home. The heroic man determined to send his wife and children to England, and return
alone "in search of a district which might prove a centre of
civilization." In the execution of this resolution he bent his
steps toward the Cape. About April, 1852, he placed his family




LOOKING FOR A HOME.                  85
on board a homeward-bound ship, and bade them a farewell,
which proved to be for five long years. The distinct object in
view was a central station in the continent, where a mission
might be planted, from which Christian influence could radiate
the entire land. For such an end, he gladly braved the foreseen hardships and perils and endured a long forfeiture of the
sweet society of the dearest friends of earth..
He left the Cape in the lumbering wagon drawn by ten oxen.
The companions were "two Christian Bechuanas from Kuruman,
two Bakwain men, and two young girls who had come from
KIolobeng as nurses for the children, and were now returning."
The party in such style would be a novel sight indeed for
many who read these pages. Think of starting in luch fashion
from New York to St. Louis; imagine the strange forests;
see ever and anon the animals which we look on with wonder
through grated bars walking freely across the plains, or bounding.through thick jungles. Where our towns and cities are, let
there be only larger or smaller clusters of queer-looking huts of
mud and straw; for the fashionable belles and gallants of our
communities think of nude and dusky beings, adorned only
with odd-looking ornaments of rude metals. But we cannot
imagine the thing.
This journey of Livingstone, destined to stretch across the
whole continent, lay first along the centre of the promontory,
inclining a little eastward. Nearer the capital the inhabitants
are mainly of Dutch and French descent. Africa too has been
an asylum from religious persecution. God has allowed his
people to be driven forth "into all the world." After two
hundred years on this shore the people are hardly changed;
they are honest, industrious farmers, who have made a sterile
region moderately fruitful, though to the eye of our traveller it
was uninviting. There were no trees crowning the dark brown
llills, and the plains looked like the promises of a desert. The
names of the places which the party passed indicated that in
some other time there were buffalo and elands and elephants
roaming over this region. They have fled from the approach
of civilization. These farmers devote most of their attention to
herds and flocks, and the climate is peculiarly favorable to
their choice; though, after you leave the Cape some distance,




86               EFFECTS OF TEACtIING.
there is a wide belt of country which opposes an almost unsurmountable barrier to the introduction of horses into the remoter
or central districts.
Just before the party reached the Orange river, which crossed
their route some three hundred miles from  Cape Town, the
monotony of the journey was relieved by a vast herd of springbucks, which seemed to be moving away from  the Kalahari
desert.- These animals are said to feed sometimes in herds
which exceed forty thousand head. Spreading over vast expanses, their quivering motion and tossing antlers present a
view of singular beauty.
Across the Orange, they passed through the territory of the
Griquas-aamixed race, sprung of Dutch and Hottentot parents.
That famous chieftain who behaved so nobly toward the colony,
a Christian man of whom much is said in "M offat's Scenes and
Labors in South Africa," ruled these people. Among these
Griquas there are many Bechuanas living, and both the races
have received much benefit from  Christian teaching.  Dr.
Livingstone was a little disappointed in their lives. It is difficult for even those who spend many years among the heathen
to judge them fairly. It is hardly to be expected that persons
brought out of such degradation to Christ should immediately
assume the proportions and symmetry which we expect of
Christian character in our land. Christianity has done much
for them. The Bechuana mission has thrown over the whole
section the air of civilization, and made Kuruman a retreat
from the heathenism beyond. It found the Griqua woman
clothed only with a bunch of leather strings hanging from her
waist, and the skin of an antelope thrown over her shoulders;
the men were smeared over with a mixture of fat and ochre,
with only a few square inches of leather for an apron; that was
their wardrobe.  Christianity has clothed these people and
induced them to attend religious meetings regularly. It has
given a Sabbath to the people which they respect. Surely,
though we may not compare them with the societies at home,
we may not despise the results which missionary efforts have
accomplished.
At Kuruman Dr. Livingstone spent some time with his
venerable father-in-law, who had been at that time thirty-five




THE BECHUANA LANGUAGE.                 87
years in Africa. He had at last completed the translation of
the Bible into the language of the Bechuanas, and was carrying
it through the press. He found no written language to begin
his undertaking with; he had first to produce that, then
accomplish the translation. The work reveals something of
uncommon interest. This language possesses wonderful copiousness, and yet provides for the expression of the Pentateuch
in fewer words than the Greek Septuagint, and makes a much
smaller volume than our English version.
During the delay at IKuruman they were surprised and
grieved by the coming of the wife of Sechele, reporting an attack
of the Boers on the Bakwains, in which they fully gratified
their cruelty and eagerness for plunder, and vented a little of
their rage against the missionary work by robbing the house of
Dr. Livingstone.
This outrage of the Boers raised a new barrier. It had so
terrified the Bakwains that not one could be found who would
risk himself in the company of Livingstone; for besides their
cruelties, the Boers had made furious threats against the man
whom they charged with having taught the Bakwains to kill
them. Only after considerable loss of time and much searching
he succeeded in finding three servants, who he describes as
being "the worst possible specimens of those who imbibe the
vices without the virtues of the Europeans."  These, with a
colored man named George Fleming, who was induced to go
with him, made it possible to advance, and he left Kuruman on
the 20th of November, and skirted along the Kalahari as before. This time there was an abundant crop of watermelons.
This being the season just preceding the winter rains, the
travellers were subjected to the peculiarly hot winds of the
desert, which they escaped in former travels. The party reached
the afflicted town of Sechele on the last day of 1852. No
wonder that the heart of Livingstone was grieved with the
spectacle.  Never had he witnessed one so pitiable.  The
people were plunged in absolute misery. Little more could be
done than to give them the sympathy of his full heart. These
were the people among whom he had labored first. He had
lived in their midst. He had left them only when the interference of the Boers rendered his work there entirely impracti5



88                LIONS AND SERPENTS.
cable.  Sorrowfully enough he left them to follow the duty
which called him again into the wilderness. He found the
wells at Boatlanama and Lopepe all dry, and pressed on to
Mashue, vwhere there was delicious water. There is little which
can interest a traveller when every step he takes is taken so
anxiously; but the country from I(uruman is thronging with
all those forest monsters which have made the continent one of
wonderful interest. By the very fountain of Lopepe a lioness
once sprang upon the horse of Mr. Oswell, who, falling to the
ground, was only saved by his faithful dogs. The hyena
prowls among the forests; the buffalo, the elephant, the giraffe,
the zebra, the tiger, all are here. All about Mashue great
numbers of mice trace their subterranean homes, or raise the
odd-looking little haycocks, against the inclement season.
Occasionally as they went they found a beautifill tortoise,
whose hard shell is its secure castle even under the teeth of the
lion, and a bid for covetousness to all who love the beautiful
ornaments which they afford.
All about Mashue there are great numbers of serpents.
These are associated in every mind with the very word Africa.
The saying, " Familiarity breeds contempt," applies to them.
A residence in this country overcomes that terror which these
gliding, coiling enemies inspire in regions where they are seldom
seen. They are death on rats. To kill the rats is to be free of
snakes. There a cat is a household treasure. Some of these
reptiles are fearfully venomous. The pecakholu is a species
peculiarly so. They are sometimes eight or ten feet long; and
even when its head has been cut off, the fangs have been known
to distil clear poison for hours. The nogo-put-sone, or serpent
of a kid, is a sort of puff-adder which imitates with wonderful
exactness the bleating of that animal; and, unquestionably, the
uplifted head, the wicked, glassy eyes, the darting tongue of the
cobra, is calculated to suggest very serious reflections on death
and antidotes.
Livingstone in this journey found the Bamangwato chief
Sekomi particularly friendly.  All of these Bechuana tribes
south of the Zambesi practice circumcision, and the ceremony
is attended with singular severities. The young gentlemen are
subjected to severe whippings, which leave their backs scarred




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3IR. GORDON CUMMINGS.                 91
and seamed with fearful wounds; to which ordeal they must add
the exploit of killing an hippopotamus before they are called
men and permitted to marry a wife. There may be a worth`y
lesson in this for more enlightened people; for truly there call
hardly be fitness for the responsibilities of life before one is in
some way trained to endure, or dares to do. Among these
tribes another singular fact is, that no one knows his age, but
measures his life only by the initiations into the national rites
which he has witnessed.
The Bamangwato hills, in whose shadow the party passed
along, rising nearly a thousand feet above the plain-vast
masses of black basalt-are.scarred and split and everywhere
present the traces of volcanic action. The soil lying in the interstices relieves the barrenness of the lava marks with pleasant
foliage. All along were seen the chinks and cavities formed
by the broken masses, which, slipping down, have caught and
hang piled against each other, forming wild refuges for the
natives in time of war.
Twenty miles beyond the Bamangwato the party reached Mr.
Cummings' farthest station north.  This gentleman outranked,
by far, all hunters in Africa, and many a wild and thrilling
story is in his book, which has aroused the Nimrod spirit in the
breast of youth. But the chase along our meadows and river
banks of the bounding buck or cunning fox is a poor preparation for the terrific charge of an infuriated elephant: shrieking
like a steam-whistle, his proboscis high in air, his dread-inspiring tusks gleaming awfully, his enormous tread shaking the
earth, he rushes on, trampling under foot every opposing thing;
he must have nerve who stands, and skill who escapes.
Beyond Letlachi they entered on a plain, where, for sixty
miles, there was no water. Feeding here and there were
seen vast herds of elands, and frequently they saw the silly
ostrich.  Hardly any occupant of these wilds engages a deeper
interest. Its very folly is entertaining; the traveller pities and
laughs, to see the creature, though fully a mile away, in extreme
alarm  rushing straight toward him. The poor bird seems to
suspect that every passer-by is trying to circumvent him, and so
invariably seeks safety by rushing across the path, frequently
only a few yards or rods before the oxen. With enormous




92                 WRETCHED IGNORANCE.
strides and astonishing rapidity of motion, it rivals the fleetest
horses in its race for life, while its feet are used with remarkable
dexterity in warding off the dogs. Its splendid coat of glossy
black, and white-tipped wings, flash in the sunshine, as it runs,
with peculiar beauty. Its quick and far-reaching vision constitutes this singular individual the sentinel of the plains, and its
timely alarm  is the signal for a general stampede of all the
game in sight.
About the wells of Motlatsa are clustered the homes of
numerous Bakalahari, who, though kindly disposed, and willing
enough to hear the missionary, were yet so wretchedly ignorant
and degraded, so driven by the wants of their poor bodies, that
Livingstone was compelled to fall back only on the great designs of infinite compassion and sovereign grace for support in
his labors among them; repeatedly, as he was in, their midst,
hardly an appreciable effect was observed.  It was almost
impossible for these poor creatures to restrain their amusement
when he would kneel down to pray. They saw no God, and
the idea of talking to an unseen being was ridiculous to them.
Some of these tribes are absolutely wanting in the remotest
approaches to music, and are wild with laughter if singing is
begun in their presence.  Yet these beings believe in a God.
Is it instinct, or the tuition of the Spirit of the Highest, which
instructs them  to refer every inexplicable  occurrence to a
Supreme Being? They believe that there is a God; they do not
understand that they may approach him. The missionaries
among the Bechuana tribes and the Caffres have found no idols,
no places of worship, no prayer of any sort. The idea of an
altar must be given them; feeling that an Unseen has to do with
them, they have no sort of conception of that Unseen which
justifies their acting with the slightest regard for it.
From  these wells the journey of Livingstone lay toward
Nchokotsa, along the dry bed of the Mokoko.  This is the
region of the salt pans again, and every fountain reminds the
traveller of the fact. Livingstone records that on one of the
salt pans passed in this trip there was a cake of salt an inch and
a half in thickness.
All along, just in the edge of this desert, are large flocks of
sheep and goats, the treasures of the Bamangwato.  The rich




LAND OF CUMMINGS' FArMOUS HUNTS (page 75).
-
BAKALAIHARI FEAST (page 76).








WAN'T AND TENDERNESS.                95
curd produced from the milk of goats is held in high favor, a
fit dish for kings indeed; for even among these poor heathen,
on this dead level, as we may think, of human nature, there
are dlstinctions, marked by matters as trifling as ever serve to
define the borders of classes in civilized society. The rich
master of a flock of these goats, rejoicing in his palatable dish
of curd-porridge, is heard to say scornfully of his poor neighbor,
" he is a water-porridge man." They are no better than civilized people in this matter; and with all our gifts, we can never
claim to have planted the spirit of aristocracy even in Africa.
It is there now, heathendom though it be, as night.
At Nchokotsa the party found worse for bad. They left salt
and purgative waters at Orapa; to turn again from a filthier
draught, to pause at Nchokotsa wells, was to mock the thirst
their bitter, nitrate waters could not quench.: At Koobe matters were hardly more promising; but it was only a promise,
and might prove worthy. It was a dreary picture. There is
romance in it viewed from our easy chairs; but a wide flat
country, over which a white sultry glare spreads, relieved only
by herds of scorched zebras and gnus, with here and there a
thirsty buffalo standing with famished gaze bent toward the
wells, which offer to them only mud-the recent wallow of a
huge rhinoceros-it is hardly a landscape to charm an eyewitness whose supply of water is, spent. The well at Koobe
was that rhinoceros wallow. Livingstone paused there for
water for men and oxen, and looked about on that withered,
sweltering scene. They could hardly clear a space in the dirty
mortar in which the oozing beverage might be collected.
And there were some days lost from their progress in waiting
on this slow fountain, before the oxen could be satiated.
Some men would have what they might have called fine sport
shooting the animals, whose thirst-greater than their timidity
— held them close about the fascinating spot. But Livingstone
was no hunter. He was a nobler type of man. There was too
much of the spirit of Him who guideth the sparrow's wing and
feedeth the ravens to have pleasure in killing anything. He
did not scruple to shoot an animal for food, but to kill them
for the sport-he would not. The kindness of his heart was
manifcsted in the tender sympathy which refused even to pro



96                   MIOWANA TREES.
vide needed food by taking advantage of the desperate tameness
of the herds which gathered in easy range of the well. It
ought to be so always.  Whoever goes forth in civilized
or heathen lands to represent Christ in presenting his gospel
ought to be animated with his wonderful spirit of tenderness.
It is not mean to be touched by the woes of a dog. It is magnanimous to respect the helplessness of a worm.
Quitting this scene, the party pressed northward across the
great Ntwetwe pan, and rested under the shade of one of the
magnificent mowana trees which rise loftily all over this broad
area of calcareous tufa, with its slight carpet of soil. The tree
under whose branches they rested, three feet from the ground,
was eighty-five feet in circumference. In all the forests and
plains of the continent nothing equals the wonderful vitality of
these mowana trees.  Livingstone declared that he "would
back one of them against a dozen floods."  It does not yield
its life to the decay within or the injuries without. It grows
on and wears its crown of foliage as proudly when the capacious
cavities within offer shelter to men and beasts as when its heart
was firm and healthful.  It may have its coat of bark stripped
off year by year, and year by year it somehow weaves another
coat and wraps itself anew. The flames may twine about it
and sear and blacken it: it will not die. Dr. Livingstone
testifies that he saw one which continued growing in length,
even after it had been cut down, while it lay stretched upon the
ground. There is only one thing to be done with them; that
is, let them alone. The natives say, the "lightning hates it,"
and decline even the favor of its shade.
From  this resting-place, travelling a few miles, the party
reached Rapesh, where the inevitable Bushmen were found
again. Their chief was Horoye, and he headed a nobler class
of men, better specimens in every respect than their namesakes
of the desert; a jovial set, who love to live, and decline to
follow their departed friends "just yet," although they recognize a future state. They love the hunting-ground of the
present, and their country flows abundantly with water; that
is enough for them. These men stand for courageous, because
they kill elephants. But nowhere in Africa do the natives
exhibit such courage in hunting as is displayed by their civil



MIDNIGHT VISITOR.                  97
ized visitors. The Bushmen are more expert in handling their
peculiar weapons, because they have had long training; but if
it is a question of coolness, of quietly approaching a fresh
strong elephant, the civilized man always astonishes the native
by his apparent recklessness. Indeed, it seems to be the testimony of history that pure courage is in the ratio of moral
culture. Animals lower than man, and savage men, may be
ferocious; civilized man presents the noblest models of courage.
Spending a Sunday at Maila, our party passed on, to be invigorated by the freshness and lifefulness at Unku. We may
imagine, if we can, the relief. For the dreary barrenness of
Koobe, there were now spread all around the tall grass waving
in the breezes like fields of golden grain, all the various flowers
blooming splendidly, and everywhere the twittering of birds
kept memorial of the rain which had revived the scene; while
the game, independent of mean wells, keeping a good distance,
despised the harmless guns of the invader. Surely it is almost
worth an experience in the desert to have the surprise and delight of coming again to a world of life and beauty and joy. But
it was hot. On the ground the thermometer marked 1250!
The water, on the surface, stood at 1000; dipped from the bottom, it was pleasant. This was in March, 1853. Livingstone
had left Kuruman in November, and was now some six hundred
miles on his journey, though passing mainly through familiar
places. Passing on through a dense, bushy tract, cutting their
way with axes, the party were suddenly arrested by an enemy
ever lurking on the footsteps of travellers passing through this
region: four of the party were down with fever, which, in three
days, had seized every one of the party except one Bakwain and
Dr. Livingstone. While lying in this place nursing the sick,
one night a hyena appeared in the high grass, and frightened
the oxen so terribly that every one of them rushed away into
the forests. The trusty servant had followed them, and after an
absence of several days, with no other guide than his instinct,
came driving up the whole herd of forty oxen. The progress
now, burdened with the sick and annoyed witlh the convalescent, obliged to cut a way through the closely wedged trees, became exceedingly laborious; but good health backed the neverflinching spirit of Livingstone. They were in the 18th degree of




98                SPLENDID COUNTRY.
latitude. The forests became more and more formidable. The
privilege of almost every step must be paid for by valiant service with the axe. The mail Fleming was vanquished, and
could go no farther. Livingstone pressed on. The heavy rains
had loaded the thick foliage overhead, and the blows of the axe
brought a continual shower-bath.
Again they were subjected to the annoyance of a stampede of
the oxen; this time a lion did the mischief. The lions in the
region through which the party was now passing are held in
check by the poisoned arrows of the Bushmen. As this poison
is referred to frequently, it may be interesting for the reader to
know that it is "the entrails of the caterpillar called 1N'gwa;
the Bushmen squeeze out these, and place them all around the
bottom of the barb, and allow them to dry in the sun. The
effect of this poison on men and beasts is alike terrible, driving
them to a perfect frenzy. The Bushmen told Dr. Livingstone
their way of curing the poison was to give the wounded man
the caterpillar itself, mixed with fat, saying, the N'gwa wants
fat, and when it does not find it in the body kills the man;
we give it what it wants, and it is content." Possibly these
despised Bushmen may dispute the honor yet for the glory of
Homeopathy.
At length they came to the first hill they had seen since
leaving the Bamangwato. It was N'gwa. They had struggled
across quite three hundred miles of distressingly flat country,
exchanging only almost insufferable deserts for almost impassable forests, each in turn only two or three times refreshed by
anything like beauty. How joyously now the hero looked down
on the picturesque valley which wrapped the base of the hill! a
beautiful stream was flowing along the glade, across which the
shadows of stately trees blended; gnus and zebras and antelopes
stood gazing on the strangers; a splendid white rhinoceros
moved across the stage indifferently as a lord, while darkvisaged buffaloes stood about quietly under the trees. The Sabbath seemed to be kept by nature, all was so peaceful. They
were now literally surrounded with wild beasts; the roar of the
lion was continually in their ears; koodoos and the giraffe were
frequently in view. The wilderness was real, but as they
advanced became more and more beautiful. The green grass,




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LINYANTI ON THE CHOBE.              101
higher than the wagons; the splendid vines, hanging richly and
gracefully among the trees, as if arranged by-they were
arranged by the hand of God-! Small rivers crossed their way
continually.
When he reached the Sanshureh, he met trouble enough to
dishearten any ordinary man. He was an extraordinary man.
This new barrier met them in latitude 18~ 4' 27" S., longitude
24~ 6' 20"1 E. In vain they sought a ford; they sought east
and west; everywhere the same deep flood met them as they
reached the terminus of the rank undergrowth through which
they were splashing in water from ankle-deep to the arm-pits.
Everywhere the river was broad and deep; everywhere there
was a wall of reeds resisting its approach through an inundated
swamp. Heartily wearied, the bold explorer, with a single
companion, pushed out a small boat upon the stream, and,
leaving the wagons, went floating down the stream until he
dropped among the astonished inhabitants of a Makololo town
like one from the clouds. In the boat he had passed the confluence
of the river, and was now on the western bank of the Chobe, in the
land of friends. By the kindness of these Makololo of Moremi,
they were assisted to bring the oxen and wagons across. This
brought them almost upon the route of 1851. It was now the
23d of May, 1853. They were at Linyanti, the capital of the
Makololo region, among the people of Sebituane.




CHAPTER IV.
NINE WEEKS WITH SEKELETU.
Arrival at Linyanti -Makololo- Their Policy-Welcome to LivingstoneSekeletu-African Hospitality-Ma-mochisane's Difficulty-Livingstone refuses to Trade-His Labors-Makololo Ideas of Beauty-Manliness-JusticeLivingstone's Journey to the Barotse-The Soil along the Chobe-The Party
-Receptions-Sekeletu loves Coffee-Huts and Hats-The LeeambyeAnimals about Katonga-The Splendid River-The Makalaka-The Contrast
-Cattle and War-Rapids-Cataracts-Falls-No Monuments in Africa —The
Barotse Valley-Fertility-MAlounds-Punishment-War Averted-The first
White Man-To the Leeba —No place for a Mission-The Wildest of all-Linyanti again-For Loanda-Serious Thoughts-Resolution-Outfit for Journey-November 11th, 1853-Escape from an Elephant-The HippopotamusThe Scenery on the Chobe-Arrival at Sesheke.
THAT was a great day in Linyanti, that 23d day of May.
The capital of the Makololo had never witnessed such a sight.
The wagons were a phenomenon entirely new. The people
remembered Livingstone as the friend of Sebituane; they associated his coming with ideas of increasing greatness. It seemed
like the hand of the great outside world reaching through the
barriers of wilderness and distance, eager in congratulation and
warm with brotherly love. They were glad. The nearer tribes
had beaten back the light from the dwellers in the Chobe
marshes for many years; now it was breaking through, and
found a people ready to rejoice in its blessings. The Makololo
are the most northern of the Bechuanas, and, under the wise and
warlike Sebituane, had become a powerful nation; the other
chieftains had acknowledged the greatness of this man, and
accorded him the respect which they feared to withhold if they
had desired to do so.  The Makololo had conquered the whole
country to the 14~ S. latitude, and were scattered thinly over
their broad domain, giving a name and laws to the tribes
among whom their individual identity was almost lost. The
territory which Sebituane had selected in the days when he was
beset by continual wars, lying between the Chobe and Zambesi,
102




WELCOME AT LINYANTI.                103
had furnished a natural fortress; but the source of their security
had almost been the extermination of the race. No enemy could
hope to assail Sebituane successfully in those pestiferous marshes;
but the malarial breath of the place was an ever-active enemy
which despised his strength. Fevers had greatly reduced the
numbers and the bodily vigor of the Makololo proper. Sebituane had maintained the vigor and ever-increasing prosperity of
his nations by his wisdom in thoroughly identifying all the
conquered tribes with his own. The Makalaka were in fact
only serfs of the Makololo, but they were called Makololo, and
spoken of, like his own people, as the children of Sebituane.
The kindness of their conquerors had bound them in stronger
cords than their authority could possibly have woven. The
Makalaka were proud to be called Makololo.
The welcome at Linyanti was in all courtly dignity. The herald
came bounding and capering, in most eccentric and indescribable antics-cutting, vociferating the feelings of the people. "Don't
I see the white man?" "Don't I see the comrade of Sebituane?"  "Don't I see the father of Sekeletu?"  "We want
sleep!"  "Give your son sleep, my lord!"  Sleep! quiet!
The people of Sebituane were tired of war. How longingly
those who have been combating adversities through dragging
years think of tranquil hours!' War had been threatening
recently; the people of the lake country, being in possession of
guns, had grown very insulting and menacing. The Makololo
had heard that " the white people possessed a pot which would
burn up any attacking party."  They had heard of cannon.
Now they trusted they might obtain that wonderful "pot." It
may seem singular that a people should desire cannon that they
might have peace; but it is the improvement in the implements
of war which promotes the interests of peace more, perhaps,
than anything except the gospel. The consciousness of strength
increases our magnanimity. The exhibition of strength secures
us respect. Respect on one side and magnanimity on the other
leave no place for strife.
Sekeletu had on his chieftainly behavior. The great cups of
the national beer were brought with lavish hospitality. From
the time of his arrival the Makololo ladies were most assiduous
in their attentions; their presents of milk and food burdened




104           MA-MIOCHISANE'S DIFFICULTY.
the gratitude of the strangers. Indeed, in all wild countries,
the simple, childlike, the grand, Godlike grace of hospitality
abounds. The poor Indian will tell you how his ancestors
kept a home in every village for the stranger; how the visitor,
whoever he was, was conducted thither in joy and pride; how
the best skins were spread and the choicest food provided without price or expected thanks-the service of duty only. In
Africa the people never think of putting a price on their attentions to the stranger until civilization teaches them cupidity.
It is the letter of God's great law of kindness written on their
wild hearts which we read in their ready reception of the
stranger. It is the writing out of God's law by the decalogue
of the devil which we read in the selfishness and suspicion
which makes a large part of civilization a desert drearier, for
the wandering and the wanting, than the sands of Sahara.
These ladylike matrons, with their short-cut hair and coats of
shining butter, only partly hidden by the soft mantle of ox
hide thrown over the bare shoulders, and the ox-hide kilt from
waist to'knees, their arms and ankles adorned with massive
rings of brass and iron, and strings of beads of various hues
twined about their necks, were only glad to wear the grace of
free attentions with that grace of person in which they pride
themselves.
You will remember that Ma-mochisane had been left the
chieftainship of the Makololo. But Ma-mocllisane was a woman.
The Makololo women all are passionately fond of children.
The lady chieftain tried to follow the example of the chiefs, and
selected a number of men whom she called her wives. But it
wouldn't work. The women became aroused against her; their
tongues could not be controlled; their bitter speeches and cruel
insinuations were more than Ma-mochisane could endure. She
fretted, she cried, she got mad, she quit and vowed she would
not be chief. She would " have a husband and children and a
home like other women."  "Sekeletu must be chief."  So
Sekeletu stood in the shoes of his father. This young man inherited his father's dignity and authority, some of his wisdom
and kindness, and all of his wives. Of these latter he distributed
all but two among the under chiefs, and selected some new ones
for himself. He was quite anxious to give the missionary any



LIVINGSTONE REFUSES TO TRADE.            105
thing he possessed, but he refused positively to read the Book
which taught that men should have only one wife. He must
have "at least five wives." He was honest certainly. Anything is better than pretending to accept what is said, when the
secret thought and determination are entirely the other way.
As early as possible Livingstone assembled the people for
worship. The Makololo observed greater decorum than some
of the more southern tribes had on the first presentation of the
gospel, though there were many disturbances inseparable from
absolute ignorance of such a thing as public worship.
Among these people, as elsewhere, Livingstone had ample
opportunity to take advantage of the kindness and ignorance of
the natives and of his being the pioneer of discovery, to engage
to great advantage in trade; but he was too deeply interested in
the spiritual condition of the people, too thoroughly consecrated
to the service of God. He resisted all temptations in that
direction, and though conducting his great work on ~100 a
year, out of which the single item of presents for the people
through whose territory he must pass was considerable, he
pressed on without murmuring. It was his study that he
might impress on the minds of the poor people that he sought
only their elevation and salvation.
At first he found some difficulty in finding persons who
would learn to read, for the reasons which we have given. At
length, however, several prominent men, even the hesitating
Sekeletu, began the work.  Thus teaching, preaching, and
searching with all the industry to be expected of one fully settled and "fixed," this wonderful man, a wayfarer only, had
thrown himself immediately into his work. The world was the
field he was sowing beside all waters. There was great need of
the noblest elements of character to prosecute the work of Christ
in such a community. It was the heart of spiritual ignorance;
it was the very core of chaos.
Yet there were ideas of justice, and there was industry and
manliness and quite familiar ideas of beauty. The women, for
instance, admiring themselves in Livingstone's mirror, were
entertained quite as really as any city belle you ever saw, and
they were greatly more honest in their impressions. They had
never seen themselves before.  Very much of the self-corn



106          IDEAS OF JUSTICE AND BEAUTY.
placency of the world is the child of self-ignorance and blindness.  These women would say: "Is that me?"  " What a
big mouth I have!" " My ears are as big as pumpkin leaves."
" I have no chin at all."  " I would have been pretty, but am
spoiled by these high cheek-bones."  "See how my head shoots
up in the middle."  Their merry laughter with these jokes
afforded the over-worked and anxious-hearted missionary much
amusement.
The men rejoice in their javelins and the strong ox-hide
shields. They are dexterous in the use of the one, and throw
the other with singular force and exactness of aim. Their
trained courage causes them to despise pain and weariness.
There are regular courts, where, in the settlement of the
graver difficulties, the proper deliberation and care are employed
to bring out the truth and render justice. In these courts the
accused and the accuser are brought face to face, each supported
by his witnesses; all parties tell their stories, and the chief men
render the decision, which none desire to question. All respect
the decisions of the court.
After spending a month in the hospitable town of Sekeletu,
Dr. Livingstone was attended by that young chieftain in a tour
northward as far as Naliele, the capital of the Barotse country.
Their path lay along the upper bank of the Chobe. That noble
river with its fortress of reeds was on their right hand. Every
now and then one of those singular miniature mountains reared
by the interminable industry of the tiny ant was passed, its
broad, gentle, fertile slopes inviting the diligence of the natives
to the culture of their choicest plants. The rich tenacious loam
on the flats between these ant-hills suggested the hope of cottonfields, and everywhere the hanging fruit banished the fear of
want. The hundred and sixty attendants in a long line winding through these scenes completed a view as picturesque as
could be. The waving feathers, the dangling ox-tails, the flashy
prints, the red tunics, the spears and shields, and clubs and
battle-axes, the laughter, the shouts, the antelopes bounding
across the way and splashing through the ponds, all the forest
inhabitants in turn coming forward to view the trespass-it
was a unique picture and full of interest.
An African chief had taken up the generous man who had




VILLAGE RECEPTIONS.                107
struggled to the heart of the continent with his messages of
fraternity from men and grace from God, and was bearing him
triumphantly through all his borders. Authority went before
them and opened the storehouses of tribes and the hearts of
people.  Servants cleared the path.  The beasts behaved like
subjects. At every village the loud lulleloo of the women proclaimed their cordiality and their respect for the chief. The
young chief received their cries of (" Great lion," " Great chief,"
"Sleep, my lord," as composedly as he invites his companion
to the calabash of beer which prompt Makololo have provided.
The Makololo presented the party great bowls of milk, out
of which they drank, dipping by means of that primitive provision commonly known as the hollow of the hand, Nature's
spoon.  An ox was commonly killed, and, quickly divided
amongst the company, was soon scorching in the flames, and
while dripping and cracking with the heat was crammed
voraciously into the capacious jaws of the men, each racing to
be filled, in mortal terror of the law which forbids that one continue at his food when the others have finished. Sekeletu
became quite fond of Dr. Livingstone's coffee and biscuit. He
would declare with unusual warmth that he " knew the heart
of, the missionary loved him by finding his own heart warm
toward the missionary's food." A process of reasoning, by the
way, which may hardly be trusted in the reach of the covetous
people of lighter hue. The villages of the Makololo, besides
the gift of food and shouts of welcome, have a singular arrangement, which makes their entertainment something like a trifling
custom in other places. The houses are only circles of posts
placed in the ground and vines and mortar filling the interstices. The roofs are entirely detached and independent of the
walls. They look just like a Chinese hat, and are lifted on and
off at the pleasure of the occupant.  The guest's chamber is
generally provided by lifting the roof of the hut off, and setting
it on the ground. The guest sleeps under the roof. The house
takes off its hat to you as you approach it.
The party struck the Leeambye at the town of Katonga.
Sekhase sent canoes across to bring them over to him. The
region around Katonga or Sekhase differs little from the valley
of the Chobe, except that it is higher and freer from the




108                  THE LEEAMBYE.
malarial vapors. The sandier soil beyond the marks of overflow reflects painfully the sunrays, driving the poor scorched
hunter to despise the sport or deny the want which prompted
him forth upon the field.
All sorts of herds, from a tiny, fairy-looking antelope eighteen inches high, to the majestic buffalo, feed leisurely and
peacefully over these plains. Among them there was a species
of eland famous for its beauty. In the engraving there is a
representation of this splendid curiosity, out of whose midst Dr.
Livingstone carried one back to his men-better game in their
eyes by far than the finest ox.
The Leeambye is a splendid stream six hundred yards wide
where the party approached it, and widening sometimes to fully
a mile in breadth. The banks on either side were clothed with
splendid forests. The winter wind had shaken off the floral
crown of summer, where the rays of the setting sun loved to
linger latest, as if they loved it best, and over the wide boughs
a gauzy mantle of changeable brown was thrown, through
which every now and then the travellers had a glimpse of the
fresh green date palm. Sometimes the forests would open a
nestling place for a little village; then their dominion would
be resumed along the banks of the river of which they are the
children and the glory.
The party were gliding along in the narrow canoes which
hardly disturbed the glassy surface of the stream in its deep,
quiet places, and which bounded from wave to wave in the
rougher places, where underlying rocks resisted it, lightly as
winged things. The Makalaka were in their element. Standing erectly in the narrow boats, they plied their long, lithe
oars with matchless dexterity, and raced along with the reckless
delight of conscious masters. The Makololo are their masters
on the land, but they tremble over the edges of the shooting
bark as if their shadows in the water pointed to a sepulchre.
The largest animals of Africa abound along the banks of the
Leeambye. The people who dwell in its villages are expert
and courageous hunters, and they select the hippopotamus as
their game.
The Manyeti, whose country borders along the river, are a
peaceable people. They have no cattle, therefore no contro



MORN
Ak
ft- 29 M, ON "N I -01"








NO MONUMENTS IN AFRICA.                  111
versy with their neighbors.  }Nearly all the quarrelling in the
country is about cattle. The tsetse partly, and partly their
desire to live peaceable, incline these people to their chosen
handicraft in preference to having herds.  Dr. Livingstone
never knew war in this whole region except on a cattle question, but in a single instance; then the trouble was like that of
which old Hormer sings-a woman.  But women are considered
among the necessaries of life, so the Manyeti hazard war rather
than banish all the women.
From  Katima-molelo northward there is a succession of
rapids, falls and cataracts which make the progress difficult and
dangerous. The party were obliged to carry their canoes around
some of these places; sometimes more than a mile would thus
be traversed, bearing their boats on their shoulders.  At Gonye
the main body of the water is collected within about seventy
yards, and leaps about thirty feet; the entire mass falling against
a huge projecting rock, causes a sound which is heard far away.
There are various traditions of sudden death to hapless travellers floating about this spot.  But whatever has been, there are
no memorials more substantial than the imperfect traditions.
There is nothing in all these wilds to commemorate the past;
the dead are rarely spoken of; there are no monuments in all
Africa; "the very rocks are illiterate; " hidden in them are no
curious shapes and characters, nothing to interest or tempt the
attentions of science as in other rocks.
About the 160 S. latitude the party entered the true Barotse
valley.  The forests fall back graduqlqly from the banks of the
river, until they are only seen across the fringe of reeds and a
flat, fertile tract some twenty miles apart.  Like the valley of
the Nile, this valley is subject to an annual overflow from the
river, which winds along its centre.  The villages of the
Barotse, built on artificial lmounds, clot the whole expanse, and
sit there like teeming islands while the waters of the overflow
spread around them. Tile people love their homes beside the
splendid stream-a home where " huanger never comes."  But
comfortable though these poor people think they are, like all of
this wild country this noble valley is waiting for the hand of
intelligence to find its real treasures. In one of these Barotse
towns Livingstone witnessed a specimen of Makololo authority
6




112          WAR AVERTED BY LIVINGSTONE.
which was painful indeed.  It was the town where the father
of a man lived who had conspired to deprive Sekeletu of the
chieftainship after the death of Sebituane.  This man and another who had counselled the conspiracy were taken on the
arrival of Sekeletu and tossed into the river. The remonstrances of the doctor were of no avail.  Sekeletu only calmly
answered him: " You see we are still Boers; we are not taught."
But Livingstone was more successful ill averting a war upon
the Mniambari, to whose fortified town they came. The feeling
of the Makololo was very bitter against them. They had been
intimately associated with the conspirator against Sekeletu, and
had received of him the privilege of marauding on their neighbors. Their city was full of these poor slave-gangs. The plan
of the chief was to starve the fortress out.  Livingstone, showing them that the first and greatest sufferers in that case would
be the helpless slaves, finally led them away and averted a cruel
revenge. It was a part of the constant aim and effort of Livingstone to bring the natives of the country through which he
passed to love peace and embrace a creed of kindness. And it
was a blessed service. The horrors of war may not be appreciated by the poor savage, but they are real and awful still. To
inculcate a spirit of peace in men is their highest service; it is
Christlike.
Careful inquiry at iNaliele convinced Dr. Livingstone that
there had never been a white man in that region before he and
Mr. Oswell were at Sebituane's, in 1851. Though he met some
half-cast Portuguese at this time, they had come into the country two years after the visit of himself and Oswell in 1851. It
is probable that no white man had ever been so far into the
heart of the African continent before. His eyes were looking
upon these strange, wonderful things for the world, and it was
the world's first glimpse of them.
The kindness of Sekeletu provided attendant ats and the missionary continued his journey some distance beyond Naliele
without the chief. The herald of Seleletu, though, made the
entrance to every village an affair of princely dignity by running in advance of the party, vociferating, "Here comes the
lord." " Here comes the great lion." The attentions were in
keeping with the introduction; the party fared on the fat




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THE IWILDEST OF ALL.                115
of the land, and enjoyed all the respect to be desired. The
public meetings were attended readily, the people heard with
quietness, and the best decorum was observed in all the services.
Beyond the 14~ S. latitude the forests converged until they
cast their shadows upon the river again, and the party passed
along between the stately trees and clinging vines as far as the
confluence of the Leeba. But nowhere could be found a spot
exempt from the poisonous atmosphere so antagonistic to health.
The destiny of Livingstone was more than quiet teaching;
Providence had in hand to open Africa by this man. He was
allowed to find no home.
The regions through which he had passed were fertile to
rankness. The inhabitants were the most thoroughly ignorant
and wild of any people he had seen. The forests and plains
were filled with every variety of animal and beast. At Libonta
he counted eighty-one buffaloes pass slowly before his fire.
The roar of the lion was continuous andi loul.   Everything,
animate and inanimate, was wild and mo6istt6dus.
On returning to Naliele Livingstone rejoined Sekeletu, enjoying the adulations of his subjects, who did all they could to
charm the young chief ill his first visit to their borders. The
dance which constituted their principal entertainment was indeed a strange and grotesque performance, admirably appropriate to a mad-house. The nearly naked men, standing in a
circle, i)randish their clubs and battle-axes, while they stamp
first the right then the left foot, all moving together in this
artistic performance; while their wild, indescribable contortions
of countenance and body conspired, with the interminable and
demoniacal laughter, to drive one almost crazy with perplexity
and confusion. They consider it " very nice," and Sekeletu
" gives them an ox for dancing for him; " so light-heartedness
and hunger are oddly joined in the spirit of the scene. The
women have only a very unimportant part in the performance.
Surrounding the circle, they clap their hands continually, only
now and then venturing to slip into the midst of the men, cut
a few capers, and retire to the observant and applauding place.
The heart of the missionary had endured a great trial during
the nine weeks of this journey. How helplessly he looked up
to the great Mlaster out of the midst of these poor degraded




116     PREPARATION FOR JOURNEY TO LOANDA.
masses!  Their dancing, roaring, singing, jesting, grumbling,
fighting and murdering were the wild expressions of their degradation, and they rang in his ears continually like the cry of
the lost, like an unconscious prayer for help.  He suffered
keenly, but more than ever was resolved to open Africa to the
fill light of the truth which sets men free from superstitions
and all clinging corruptions.
In September the explorer and Christian teacher was in Linyanti again, arranging for a journey to Loanda on the western
coast. His eagerness to accomplish this journey found an ally
in the anxiety of the Makololo to open a direct trade with
white men. They felt restive under the old system of swindling
to which they had been so long subjected by the Marelbari, who
had monopolized the trading between the interior and the coast.
Livingstone coincided too in this desire for the establishment of
direct trade with the interior; for not only did the natives
themselves suffer for the lack of it, but he was convinced that it
would also work greatly against any missionary who might be
dependent on intercourse with these extortioning traders for
supplies.
Frequent fevers had worn perceptibly on the vigorous constitution of Dr. Livingstone. A man more easily discouraged
could have found a well-grounded excuse for claiming exemption from duties demanding such exposure and exertion. There
was no wavering in the heart of this man. He felt that he
must face death very deliberately. It was painfully impressed
on him  that a lonely dissolution in wild forests, with only
heathen attendants, was quite probable; but he reasoned, "If
we serve God at all it must be done in a manly way." He
banished all fears and braced himself to " succeed or perish."
Nothing is more touching than the picture of this great man,
after reflecting seriously on the dangers of the undertaking before him, sitting down in the rude hut of a savage and commending his little daughter to a brother far away and to God.
The Boers had relieved him of anxiety about worldly possessions by relieving him of their possession.  There was very
little to dispose of now. The friendly Makololo readily assumed
the care of his little store, and left him free to equip himself for
the long journey. The curious reader will be pleased to know




OUTFIT FOR JOURNEY.                 117
what sort of outfit an explorer of such wilds finds important.
There are all sorts of things represented to be indispensable,
but Livingstone was too inured to privations and hardships to
trouble himself much about softening the bed which he was
called to lie on. In his own language, he was satisfied "that if
he did not succeed it would not be for want of'knick-knacks,'
but from want of pluck." The rifle and double-barrelled gun for
himself, and the three muskets for his people, were depended on
to provide the necessary food, and had only the supplement of
about forty shillings worth of beads, carried for barter. A few
small packages of the more important articles of food for civilized life, such as coffee and tea, a limited quantity of clothing,
left room for the more important things essential to obtaining an
accurate knowledge of the country. A sextant, a chronometer
watch, a compass, a thermometer, and a small telescope were his
stock of instruments. The only books he carried were a " Nautical Almanac," " Thomson's Logarithm Tables," and a Bible.
A small tent for his house, with a sheepskin mantle and houserug for furniture, and lastly his magic lantern. His attendants
were twenty-seven men, belonging to the different tribes acknowledging the Makololo authority.
Thus attended and equipped, the traveller left the town of
Linyanti on the 11th of November, 1853, to embark on the
Chobe. The purpose of good was the strength of his heart; the
results were with God. Approaching the river from Linyanti
the party traversed a portion of the country where Livingstone
and Oswell had been three years before. They passed through
the wild where Mr. Oswell had nearly lost his life on that
occasion. This gentleman had followed an elephant into the
dense thorny growth which borders the river, when suddenly
he discovered the monster had turned about, and was rushing
madly upon him.  Vainly the hunter tried to force his trembling horse through the thicket; there was only a moment, when
he was dashed to the ground by the frightened creature as it
bounded aside. It seemed impossible that he should not be
instantly crushed beneath the feet of the tremendous assailant,
who passed over him in the instant. The escape was marvellous.
It is only a glimpse of the perils of the place, perils which
must be hazarded everywhere in this strange wild land.




118                    THE CHOBE.'
The river on which the slender canoes were launched was a
poor exchange for the lair of the lion and the tramp of the
elephant. It entertained an enemy as dreadful as either. The
hippopotamus is not generally a bold assailant of man, but
where there are as many as infest this stream it is hardly possible to avoid contact with him. The tiny boats may at any
moment glide into the midst of a sleeping herd, and be suddenly
dashed to pieces. Besides there are always certain individuals
of the species lurking about in lonely Ishmaelitish anger which
spares no living thing. The hippopotamus, though confined to
the African continent, is found in all parts of it, and is generally
of tremendous size, though its short legs, hardly lifting its belly
from the ground, cuts off its height; its body is large as that of
the elephant. Its huge mouth opens like a cave, and is furnished with massive, frightful teeth, formidable enemies to the
growing grain and luckless boatman.  It is strictly gregarious
in its habits, and dozing lazily through the day quits its river
haunts at night in search of food. Sometimes it exhibits a
peculiarly happy mood, sporting like a mammoth kitten in the
yielding element. At other times the evil spirit rises and it
bites and kicks sullenly as a demon. Once'an angry member
of the race pursued the attendants of Livingstone far away
from the river, and often he witnessed the cruel gashes of its
tusks in the legs of natives who had barely escaped a horrid
death. Its thick hide is a formidable shield, even against the
sharp, heavy lances of the country. But its flesh is healthful
and very highly esteemed for food.
The Chobe, from Linyanti to its confluence with the Leeambye, is exceedingly tortuous, and though deep and wide offers
but small temptation to navigation. Many villages are passed
on its banks. All of them were ready with the supplies which
had been ordered by Sekeletu to be in waiting for Dr. Livingstone.  The banks are high and crowned with many lofty
trees, whose branches tempt the traveller with their pendant
offerings of various fruits.
At the confluence of the rivers the party spent a night on the
island Mparia, and, turning up the Leeambye, landed at Sesheke
on the 19th of November.




CHAPTER V.
TO BALONDA.
Sesheke-Sekeletu's Policy —Missionary Work-Wanting in Religious IdeasDuties of Missionary-The Leeambye-Hippopotami-Mr. Cumming's Adventure-Livingstone's Idea of Lions-Anderson —Lion Confused-Fevers Protractedl-Unwelcome News-Livingstone's Wise Plan —Libonta-Death by a
Lion —The Camp-Cook and Laundry Work-Humanity of Livingstone —
Beyond Libonta-Courage-First Act in Balonda —The Leeba —Want of Game
-Buffalo Hunt-Buffalo and three Lions —Mambari Merchants-A-anenkoTown of Shinte-Fashions of Ankle Rings-A Black Scold-M-anenko's Dress
-Fever, Rain, Hunger-Dark Forests-Delays-Invitation at last-Medicine
Charms-A Soldier-Balonda Fashions-Full Undress of Balonda LadyBalonda Gentlemen-Head-dress-Salutations-Mlanenko's Kindness.
SESHEIRE by the Leeambye-" the white sand-banks" by
"the large river "-was the city of a brother-in-law of Sebituane,
named Moriantsane.  Its large population was representative
of the Makololo dominion. All the conquered tribes were
represented  there.   Each  of thenm  had its own head-man,
though, of course, they all recognized the higher authority of
Sekeletu.  There were little things, however, constantly occurring, as there were all through his country, which indicated that
the young chief had not the regard of the people which they had
been glad to cherish for his father. There was a great difference.  Sebituane had been a wise man, and under him  the
various tribes had been held gently and firmly.  He was fully
informed of the minutest details in the government of the various
tribes, and made the under chiefs love and fear him  alike.
Sekeletu was not like him; the petty chiefs soon found out his
inattention and incapacity.  The father, with old Roman policy,
obliterated all distinctions, and made his subjugated provinces a
part of his country; his subjects became his children.  Sekeletu
revived the Makololo pride, and replaced the insignia of inferiority on the tribes.  These tribes began to hate him, while
they were fearing him less and less. The people would sometimes defy the decisions of the local chiefs with impunity.  An
119




1 20               MISSIONARY WORK.
instance of this occurred while Dr. Livingstone was in Sesheke.
There had been a theft committed, and in the effort to find out
the guilty party a young man who was suspected was bound
and exposed in the scorching sun until he should make restitution or pay the fine. The mother of this young man seized a
hoe, and, going to her son, threatened to kill anybody who
should interfere; and having cut the cords led him away to her
home. All Moriantsane could do was to send word to Sekeletu.
So the matter ended. The reins of government were hanging
loosely. The lawless spirit is in human nature; the slightest
toleration of it is the tiny crevice in authority through which
an inexhaustible fountain sends its smallest stream; a stream
which will wear and widen and deepen until gigantic rebellion
breaks up the foundations of government and bears them, helplessly scattered, on its mighty, rageful surface. The history of
the wild tribes is a miniature history of the wide world. The
law of cause and effect is absolute and universal.
The diligent Christian finds work in every place. Livingstone was immediately engaged in teaching the people of Sesheke; and such was the respect which he always inspired, such
was the honor in which he was held, that there was no trouble
in gathering several hundreds of these poor heathen to hear his
message from the great Chief of all, the "King of kings."
Their temple was by the river; the shade an "outspreading
camel-thorn tree."  How sweetly suggestive was every bough
of this noble tree, while he recalled the probability that one like;it filrnished the timber of which the Ark of the Covenant was
made! No wonder the heart of the missionary was overflowing
with confidence in God's mercy for his degraded audience.
How could he, either, find it in his own heart to dwell on their
sinfulness?  Indeed, Livingstone was so fill of tenderness and
charity, so unwilling to see or reveal the blemishes of others,
that he hardly draws the curtain sufficiently on the moral condition of Africa. His own elevated purity turned away from the
stagnant corruption about him with silent pity. He only says
that there is corruption, that there is death, and, crying to the
world for help, works on with the energy of devotion, almost
of despair, healing and lifting up the people.
The Makololo were singularly wanting in religious ideas,




NO RELIGIOUS IDEAS.                  121
and though quite respectful and curious enough to be attentive,
they would put their questions in such absurd confusion of the
ridiculous and solemn that the, missionary needed to exercise
constant watchfulness over his risible faculties.  As there were
no altars to be overthrown by Christianity, there were no prejudices against it, except such as hearts naturally depraved
bring forth, or such as seemed supported by some social regulation or individual habit.  Therefore there was a ready assent to
the teachings as doctrines; an assent, however, which amounted
to very little so far as the actions of the people went.  But
even among these people there are those who positively resist
the truth. Some villagers put all their cocks to death because
they crowed the words, " Tlang lo rapeleng," "Come along to
prayers." Tile nearest approach to worship to be found in this
region was the habit of paying special attention to the new
moon. This was watched for with all eagerness, and its first
appearance was hailed with loud acclamations and prayers.
Even the attendants of Livingstone were accustomed to invoke
the favor of the new moon on them and their master during
their journey.
The duties of a faithful Christian teacher, though found most
largely in presenting the gospel and seeking the immediate salvation of souls, have yet a range which comprehends all the
well-being of man. It is not a reproach if a minister is instrumental in reforming society or government. It is not out of
place for him to strike off any yoke of oppression which galls
the necks of the people. It is not a mean service which introduces systems and regulations that bring order and peace to the
community.  Those unobtrusive efforts of Dr. Livingstone,
which left their results interwronght with the heathen codes,
were among the most difficult and telling of his works. Those
examples and conversations, which left their impressions, indefinitely even, on African society, are the unrecorded but
imperishable testimonies to his sincerity and real greatness.
The idea of compromise in times of dispute, of mercy to the
offender; thoughts of internal improvement and commerce; new
methods of reward and punishment; all the variety of matters
which a wise and intelligent Christian would think of in such
a community, opened a field which this truly great manll was




122               LEEAM~BYE IN SPRING.
gladly disposed to enter, and in which his singular influence
will linger through all the opening history of that continent.
The journey up the river from  Sesheke was along the same
splendid Leeambye which we mentioned in a former chapter.
The broad surface, the rapids an(l wild falls were, of course, the
same, only the deep brown hues. of winter had yielded to the
gorgeous summer.  The thick green foliage of the majestic
trees was varied and enriched by a wonderful wealth of fruit,
while strange, large flowers of peculiar beauty were everywhere
like jewels in the verdure. The forests were full of birds. The
gentle cooing doves had their nests just over the rushing, roaring torrents. The Ibis, just like those which held old Egyptian breasts in sacred awe, and found their honored graves in
stately tombs, was sitting in its wonted isolation on the bare
points of some withered, broken, branchless trunk.  Thle
singular little "hammering iron" might be seen sitting on the
black of the hideous crocodile, or perched inside his cavernous
jaws, quietly picking the monster's teeth. The tiny, roguish
parrot was flashing about in the sunrays like a living emerald
with wings of gold, shocking the ear with a voice that seemed
to be deliberate mockery of the eye's delight.  The various
species of fishing birds and nameless songsters of rare hues
were always present, while every now  and then a monster
alligator came splashing from his sunny perch into the stream,
or some unfortunate guana on a projecting bough fell a victim
to the ready spear of a native, and dropping into the gliding
boat was seized as choice provision for an evening meal.  This
animal is of the lizard tribe, and grows sometimes to the length
of four or five feet.  Its strong coat resists blows, and even the
force of fire-arms, but it falls helpless if a straw is put in its
nostril.
Vast herds of hippopotami were passed, and it was amusing
to see the youthful members of the families perched on the
broad shoulders of their dams, while the tremendous puffing
and snorting rumbled around like miniature thunder.  Mr.
Cumnaing once came on the lair of four of these singular creatures, a hazy morning on the banks of the Limpopo.  The
noise of his horse breaking through the wall of reeds alarmed
them, and all four rushed into the shallow stream, and went




...........
Fu
- - - -------------------- ---








HIPPOPOTAMIUS.                   125
trotting toward deep water.  The hunter, with quick aim,
wounded a large cow, the ball striking the skull. The animal
commenced plunging furiously round and round in a frenzy of
agony; a second ball only increased her misery and fury.
Anxious to bring his game nearer the land, Mr. Cumming then
threw off his heavier clothing and plunged into the water, and
armed only with a long knife rushed upon the beast; seizing
her short tail he vainly tried to steer her landward.  The tail
was a poor rudder; cutting a slit in the strong hide, he found a
securer hold, and ultimately brought the huge behemoth to the
shore, when it required the full strength of a brace of splendid
oxen to land her.  She measured, by his account, five full feet
across the body.  Floating along this stream the interminable
roar of the lion forces that animal on our thoughts continually,
and not unfrequently his majestic form, passing through the
neighboring brush and matted reeds, excites the deepest interest.
It is barely possible that the great explorer whom we are followz
ing through these wildernesses was hardly the man to rightly
estimate this, or any of the ferocious monsters of the land.
Livingstone was not a hunter; while not wanting in skill or
courage to meet lions or elephants, he had no delight in the
field. His mission was with men; his lesson must be one of
kindness; he must inculcate a lofty moral courage; necessarily
almost, his habits of thought and life taught him indifference to
all that was purely animal; he could not appreciate the features
in these wild creatures which filled other men with awe and
wonder. He, for instance, only thought of the lion as the great
dog of the forest; he could discover no majesty in his roar, no
special dignity in his bearing. He was quick to perceive whatever was gentle and loving and intelligent, but the sterner,
wilder, cruel features did not impress him as they would men
generally; and though he may have been correct in his estimate
of the lion's courage measured by his lofty standard, it certainly possesses a sort of courage which has made all sportsmen
think of lion-hunting as, perhaps, the most serious of all the
delights of wilderness life. It requires the greatest coolness
and skill, when once a lion is wounded and thoroughly at bay;
every moment is precious. Mr. Anderson, in his " Wilds of
Africa," narrates an incident in which his want of experience




126               THE LION CONFUSED.
was hardly atoned for by his superior courage even. The beast
which he pursued had taken refuge, as usual, in a densely thick
jungle, where only his horrible growling indicated his locality.
The very few feet of reeds completely concealed the lair. Vainly
striving to provoke the lion to advance, the hunter at last
ventured upon the initiatory proceedings himself by attempting
to force his way through the wall, when suddenly he entered a
comparatively open space, and met the blazing eyes of the
enraged animal fixed upon him. The instant allowed no aim, no
use of the knife in his hand; there was only the one awful sight
of the raving monster, his crouching, the furious bound, which
by some kind providence carried him above and. beyond his
victim, and the almost bewildered man scrambled away gratefully, in consciousness that his life wras hardly his own.  This
suggests a singular fact recorded of the lion: he is said to manifest confusion and shame when on any account he overleaps his
mark or misses his object, and is never known to repeat the
assault on such occasions, unless forced to do so in self-protection; frequently he has been seen to pause after such a blunder,
and, returning quietly to the spot from which he sprang, step
carefully the distance to that where his intended victim stood,
then, looking up and around thoughtfully, seem to be absorbed
in a calculation. The lion certainly is held in the highest
respect by the Makololo people: they greatly prefer to encounter
the lances and axes, or guns, even, of men, and, while they are
eager to resent the slightest insult of a neighboring tribe with
bloody war, they are in mortal dread of invading the dominions
of this roaring, prowling individual.
The fevers, which had begun their work some time before,
were preying still on the energies of Livingstone; all along the
journey from Seshelke he was tortured by the inward fire, and
the poor accommodations of his camp made the nights a questionable exchange for even the toil and glaring sun upon the
river. There was a consolation, though, in the kindness of his
followers and the attentions of the people along the route.
Their hospitality was rendered peculiarly refreshing by the
modesty with which it was attended. The owner of an ox
would gracefully present it to the stranger, remarking, "Here
is a little bit of bread for you."  Nothing is prettier in kind



---- ~ ~    ~      ~     ~      -  -- -~:_1
- _  N                             _      _  _ —----
I~~~~~~~~~~~(I
LION ENCOUNTER~








UNWELCOME NEWS.                  129
ness than unconsciousness. A truly generous deed, done so
naturally that the dependent one hardly knows it, is benevolence. It is a pity that, with their progress in other matters,
men progress so rapidly in appreciation of themselves and the
estimate of their own works.
At Nameta very unwelcome news was waiting for Dr. Livingstone. An uncle of Sekeletu, named Mpololo, who maintained a sort of ascendency in the Barotse valley, under a spirit
of revenge for some former wrong, had sanctioned a foray of a
Makololo party, headed by one Lerimo, into the territory of the
Balonda. Lerimo had destroyed several Balonda towns, and
taken a number of the subjects of an under chief named Masiko
prisoners. This invasion of the territory on which Livingstone
was about entering, by the tribe with which he was so nearly
associated, and which was filrnishing his guides and escort,
rendered his situation exceedingly unpleasant, particularly as
the desolated towns lay along the very route which he must
follow. Sekeletu had been careful to guard against any such
embarrassments of his guest and his father's friend, by issuing
positive orders on the subject, prohibiting all such forays, and
Mpololo had transgressed his orders. This, however, did not
make the matter better. At Litofe, a few miles higher up,
there was news of a fresh foray, which had to be disbanded by
sending a messenger in advance of the party. On reaching the
town of Sekeletu's mother, where Mpololo was, the missionary
required them to place the prisoners who had been taken by
Lerimo in his charge to be returned to Masiko, as a proof of his
friendship and as an evidence, too, that the whole responsibility
of the invasion lay with a petty chief who would be held
accountable by his master. By this means this wise and patient
man was able to avert probably a cruel war. Mpololo was particularly generous of the property he had in charge, and filled
all the orders of Sekeletii for the party with a good grace; so
that Livingstone left Naliele in possession of fifteen fine oxen,
eight of which were for riding purposes, the others for slaughter
or presents as occasion might require. They were at Libonta,
the border town of the Makololo, on the 17th of December.
During the delay which was necessary at Libonta the doctor
had abundant use for his skill in the healing art; the fever was




130                    THE CAMP.
prevailing both among the inhabitants of the town and his own
people. He had very little regard for the native method of
treating this disease, which he experienced himself, on one occasion, to be a process of " charming one scientifically, while he is
stewed in vapor baths and smoked like a red herring over green
twigs." His gentler and surer treatment was soon in great
demand and burdened him with a full practice, gratis of course.
He had also occasion for surgical skill. A party of natives
were forced to go after a bold, depredating lion. They must
meet their game in closer quarters than the civilized hunter, for
the spear and knife or club must do the work of powder and
ball. It was an unlucky day for one poor fellow, who was
brought home with the bone of his thigh crushed. Even the
white man's charms were unequal to this occasion. There is,
according to Livingstone, a virus about the teeth of the lion
which occasions painful inflammation, and the wound of his
teeth " resembles a gunshot wound."  It is generally followed
by a great deal of sloughing and discharge, and if one is so fortunate as to escape with life, the injury follows him all through
life in periodical pains about the wounded part.
Before following our hero away from the lovely valley of the
Barotse, on his tramp to the sea, we will look just once on the
home he nightly improvised along the banks of the lovely Leeambye. It is to be remembered that, while his party are all
subjects of Sekeletu, only two are really Makololo. There are
representatives of several subject tribes. The little camp presents all the order of larger ones in regions more enlightened,
where human foes demand the vigilance. A little gypsy tent
marks the quarters of the white man; he is sleeping there between the two trusty Makololo, who have the post of honor,
and hold his precious life in sacred trust. About the narrow
bed the boxes form a wall. Across the entrance the faithful
head-boatman, Moshanana, is lying, his own body given to
form the door which violence must pass through to reach his
leader. About this tent the rude brush sheds, arranged in
horseshoe shape, mark the resting-places of the attendants,
separated according to their tribes. Within the circumference
of this force the oxen are standing; and sometimes, lurking in
the shadows of the trees, there is a stealthy beast of prey; his




:~~~~~~~~~i~~~~~~~~~~~~~V
-— li== — ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~~FRIAN  ION(pae 10)








COOKS AND LAUNDRY-MAIDS.                133
glassy eyes may be seen shining in the firelight, or his deep
growl provokes an oath from his almost as savage neighbor
under the shed.  When the clear, full moon looked down, the
fires were allowed to burn low, and leave to its lonely guard a
scene picturesque as could be, for the angels to look on, and
God's benediction.
Among his followers Livingstone selected some who were
instructed in a few of the simpler mysteries of the white man's
culinary system. Others he taught the process of restoring his
travel-stained linen to its virgin purity. The ready willingness of these faithful men to do him service helped them greatly,
and soon they did their new duty with a skill which might
have provoked the envy of cooks and laundry-maids "to the
manner born."  The experience of Dr. Livingstone sustained
his refined instincts and early lessons of neatness, in teaching
him to hold fast the distinctions of civilization in all the habits
of life as far as could be, even in the-heart of the most ignorant
and degraded continent.  The barbarous people will hardly
struggle toward a higher life whose customs are readily abandoned, like the hues of the chameleon, for the demands of a new
locality. The affairs of every-day life, like eating and dressing,
are the most striking features of civilization in the eyes of the
uncivilized, and about these their wonder and respect begin; to
change or abandon these is to break the young tendrils of their
confidence or admiration, and cancel all claims on their discipleship.
It is worth while for all who think of venturing on a lifework in savage lands to remember that such a man as David
Livingstone records his testimony, that "it is questionable
whether a descent to barbarous ways ever elevates a man in the
eyes of a savage. And is there a question whether Christianity
is more a loser than gainer by the coming down of Christians to
join in the doubtful avocations and delights of a worldly
society?"
The almost singular humanity of Dr. Livingstone, which
shines out so beautifully in all his career, comes strikingly into
notice in his own journal of events occurring a short distance
above Libonta. They had halted and sent some messengers off
to the west, charged with the duty of returning some of the




134             EHUMIANITY AND COURAGE.
captives to Makoma. The scene was one which would ]lave
filled the heart of Cumming or Anderson or Harris with sanguinary delight. Herds of splendid animals were feeding on
every side. He says he could easily have gotten within fifty
yards of them; but he adds: " There I lay, looking at beautiful
pokus, leches, and other antelopes often, till my men, wondering what was the matter, came up and frightened them away.
I felt a doubt and the antelopes got the benefit of it." Even
when he was driven to use his gun in providing food, this noble
man was always studying to find the peculiarly fatal spot where
the death-wound might produce the least possible pain.
The progress up the river beyond Libonta was slower and
more toilsome, because a division of the party had to follow
along on the land with the oxen, and it was a trying path indeed, if path it may be called, which needed to be opened almost
every foot in some parts of it by the axe. They were not only
leaving the lovely valley, but the empire of the children of
Sebituane for the untried Balonda.
It is so natural for the reader to become absorbed in the
strange surroundings of an explorer; his novel experiences are
so full of interest, that the man himself is hardly appreciated as
he should be. It is peculiarly so in tracing the steps of Dr.
Livingstone. He moves along so quietly, calling so little attention to himself, that one almost forgets the incalculable toil and
suffering of such long and tedious marches through an unknown
land. And every interview and transaction with the native
chiefs is told so simply, so devoid of all representations of the
difficulties and perils which attended it, that one is tempted to
forget that it is really the history of a single almost defenceless
man dealing with barbarous chiefs in their own wild fortresses.
We are particularly struck with the lofty moral courage of
Livingstone, when we find him boldly reproving these chiefs,
and almost dictating to them their'duties. He seemed to have
no idea but that right and truth must prevail, and exhibited
absolute fearlessness and confidence while conscience clear in his
devotion to these. Almost the first act within the Balonda
borders was to send quite a severe rebuke to Masiko for allowing the sale of his people into slavery. It is true his message
was attended by the return of some captives wrenched from the




THE BLACIK LEEBA.                  135
hand of Lerimo; this only manifests the kindness of his heart
and his wisdom, and does not depreciate the real courage of
stepping on a strange territory and boldly denouncing a custom
which brought its revenue to a savage chief. There is something singularly Christlike in the progress of this great man,
as we have followed him, and shall follow him, along the rivers
and through the wildernesses of benighted Africa.  His counsel
is always peace, his example always kindness, his conduct
always calm and his spirit bold.
This Mlasiko, to whom he sent his messengers from the confluence of the Leeba and Leeambye, was not really a Balonda
man, though reckoned now with the Balonda chiefs. lHe was
the son of Santuru, the former chief of the Barotse. He had
established himself beyond the Makololo authority, and gathered
about him such of the Barotse as would share his fortunes. He
was included now in the number of tribes which recognize the
paramount authority of M'Iatiamoo. This explanation is due to
the people generally who bear the name of Balonda; because,
while they are more or less cursed by the visits of the Mambari,
the popular sentiment denounces the slave trade, and the
people were often expressing their envy of the Makololo, their
exemption from its sorrows and degradation.
From the confluence the route toward Loanda led away from
the main branch along the Black Leeba, which is described as
flowing through a region where nature has turned artist and
disposed of trees and shrubs and rivulets and vines and flowers
in true garden beauty; where even the lowly banks are terraced
as regularly as if to please a fastidious human taste. The whole
scene is gentler than along the Leeambye. The Balonda arrows
have taught their forest subjects caution, their traps and snares
have intimidated the birds, and even the fish are fewer, and the
crocodile has learned the fear of man. The banks of the Leeba
are waiting for the botanist, and offer a rich harvest. Among
the trees rejoicing the traveller's eye with their wealth of blossoms was one so like the hawthorn in flowers, fruit and fragrance that the sweetest memories of other times and dearer
scenes swept over the heart of the wanderer. Food was not so
easily provided now as along the Leeambye. The young men
were doubly interested in a buffalo hunt. Dr. Livingstone held




136           THREE LIONS AND A BUFFALO.
this animal in rather higher esteem than the commonly received
king of beasts.  He could not but be impressed by the rapid,
resistless charge of this powerfill animal.  His Makololo companions, who manifest a solemn hesitancy in disputing the
rights of the lion, follow along the buffalo trail carelessly
enough.  He is a foe whom they understand; one for which
they may be prepared.  It is rather singular to observe in this
great lumbering monster the same cunning endeavors to elude
the pursuers Which distinguish the fox and the stag.  It is
true, however, that the buffalo observes the same shifting and
turning, often doubling on its track, and frequently concealing
itself within a few yards of the starting-point. When, however,
it becomes really desperate, and comes dashing with reckless
impetuosity upon its assailant, it is the time for either special
prowess or special prayers.  This is the moment when the
native dexterity is exhibited most admirably.  Just at the
instant when he seems to be a victim, and the beholder almost
screams in terror, the young man glides aside and stabs his
enemy very much after the fashion in a Spanish bull-fight.
Max Vardon, who shared considerably the sporting experiences
of Mr. Oswell, mentions witnessing a fight between a buffalo
and three full-grown lions.  The gentlemen mentioned were
pursuing the buffalo, which they had wounded, and were in
full sight of it, aWshen they saw the lions spring from their lair
and attack. him.  The spectacle was awful.  Fastening their
mighty teeth in the flanks and shoulders of the buffalo, the
three tremendous lions could be seen exerting all their fearful
strength to drag him down, while their angry growls mingled
with his agonized and fuirious bellowing, and his gigantic
bounds and struggles where amazing and awful.  It is impossible to tell how the singular and unequal contest would have
ended but for the trusty rifles of the hunters, who terminated
the scene by " bagging a brace of lions and the buffalo in about
ten minutes."
When the party had come opposite the village of nManenko,
they received. messages from her ladyship, who holds the chieftaincy there, requesting a delay until she could come to them;
but after several days of useless interchange of messages, while
incessant rains were aggravating impatience, Livingstone deter



laid~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~








"HE IS A MEERMAN."                 139
mined to press on without having seen this lady. The rains
and almost continuous fevers were wearing sadly on the naturally vigorous man, and he felt deeply anxious to advance as
expeditiously as possible.
At the confluence of the Leeba and the Makondo they found
traces of the Marebari merchants. These enterprising men are
satisfied to hold their valuable trade with the interior wilds,
and feel under no obligation to enlighten their customers concerning the world beyond the rivers which bound their dominions. They represent the white men as dwelling in the sea.
These representations of the Mambari explain the almost resolute confidence of the Balonda in the belief that Livingstone
was none other than a merman. Indeed, the hair of Livingstone was the greatest curiosity. They could account for the
deeper shades of their complexion, because he showed them the
effect of the sun and weather in bronzing his own hands and
face, while the skin of his breast, unexposed, remained perfectly
white. But the hair-they had never seen straight hair. It
must be, they reasoned; "he comes out of the sea. The waves
have washed his hair straight. He is a merman."
These people are sadly superstitious; in this they are unlike
the more southern tribes, who, it will be remlembered, manifested hardly anything of the sort. They employ every variety
of charms, and everywhere there are evidences of their idol
worship.
After the failure to accomplish an interview with Manenko,
the party advanced as far as a village over which an aunt of
that lady, named Nyamoana, wielded the sceptre. It was rather
a new thing under the African sun to be in the power of the
women; but Dr. Livingstone deported himself as graciously as
though he had been an experienced attendant of the sex. The
good lady who did him the honors now was bent on having him
turn aside from the Leeba and allow her people to conduct him
to her brother, who was the greatest chief in all that part of
Balonda. It was no use to urge the desirableness of river
transportation. Her head was set, and just in the midst of the
controversy she was reinforced by the unexpected arrival of
Manenko. The odds were against him, and the great explorer,
who had cut his way through forests and carried his point




140           NON-COSTUME AND LORDSHIP.
against chiefs, yielded the controversy to two women, and began
preparations for an awful march through swamps and floods.
As Mlanenko assumed to direct this expedition, and requires us
to follow her majestic leadership for many days, we will take
time for her acquaintance. She is described as tall, strapping
and twenty. She was most elaborately arrayed in a coating of
red ochre; only that and "' nothing more," unless the strands of
ornaments and medicine charms about her neck may be called
clothing. The non-costume, which she prided herself on, was
intended to teach her people to despise anything effeminate.
Indeed, the whole Balonda people are singularly negligent of
clothing; the women particularly seldom wear anything but
ornaments, and are seen everywhere in frightful nudity. The
men are hardly better arrayed, and seem equally fond of ornaments. The most prevalent insignia of wealth and position
consist in the rings which are worn about the ankles. Some
chiefs put on so many that they walk with considerable difficulty, and are forced to keep their feet far apart. And those
gentlemen who are desirous to appear important are often noticed
assuming the difficult gait of their betters. WThen Livingstone
smiled at seeing one of these gentlemen walking as if his limbs
were burdened, when really there were only one or two small
rings to be seen, one of the people remarked, "That is the way
they show off their lordship in these parts."
From the village of Nyamoana, the party were to abandon
the canoes and strike out into the forests; and the preparations
necessarily occupied some days, particularly as the self-willed
Manenko preserved a most despotic indifference to the impatience of her guest, and took her own time as well as her own
methods in the matter. It was exceedingly trying to Livingstone, reduced to the meanest diet, and exposed to the most
inclement weather, to be arrested by this petticoat government;
but the daily specimens of our lady's attainments in the peculiarly feminine art of scolding which came under his notice kept
him in subjection, and lie could only obey, when she met his rebellion by very quietly and authoritatively putting her hand on
his shoulder, and reminding him of the ready submission of his
followers, adding: "Now, my little man, just do as they have
done."  Manenko, however, was really kind, and did all in her




MANENKO TAKES COMMAND.                  141
power to render the weary and sick explorer comfortable. It
was not in her power to yield her will, perhaps; that is a hard
thing for men to do, and more than should be expected of her.
With the morning of January 11th the delay ended. The
journey lay first across a succession of forests and lawns, where
the largest evergreens were exchanged for the richest carpets
of green grass. The singular little army marched gallantly
along through the driving rain-the queenly Manenko in
advance, in her coat of red grease, the picture of independence. And she led the party at a right good pace, and
so steadily that they were rejoiced when she would finally allow
them to rest. The Makololo, who were as unaccustomed fo
such leadership as Dr. Livingstone, were full of admiration for
this phenomenon in that line, and declared that Manenko was
" a soldier."
It is the custom in the Balonda country for the men to carry
their arms, and wherever our party pitched their tent they
were surrounded by numbers of ferocious-looking individuals
with short swords and quivers of the wickedest-looking ironheaded arrows. They did not receive the same attentions, however, which had cheered their way through the Makololo tribes,
and found none of the ready hospitality which made them
almost careless of supplies. The missionary was made to add
hunger to the record of hardships.  Fever, rain, hunger, day
after day, tells a story of painful sacrifice, and the gentleness,
the faith and perseverance which could not be overcome, tell of
singular greatness and God's upholding.  The houses are the
ordinary huts, but they are unlike the homes farther south, in
being surrounded by strong palisades, as if designed to be fortresses in case of war. War does not spare the enlightened or
benighted: it is everywhere. The trees of the forests along this
route were of the finest proportions, such as would almost turn
the head of a lumberman; but they suggest no ideas of wealth
or greater comfort to the rude men who shoot their arrows
among their branches or stalk the game in their deep shadows.
The gloomy depths of these forests seem to cast a shadow on
the spirits of the dark beings who dwell in them; charms and
medicines are found in most unexpected places, and idols are
more numerous as the forests deepen. The idols of Balonda




142                INVITATION AT LAST.
take various shapes; are the most uncouth conceivable specimens of art.  Some are intended to represent animals and
others human heads; but haste or carelessness sometimes satisfies itself by setting up a crooked stick, before which to bow in
worship. Even the trees are pressed into this service, and
passing along there may be seen offerings of maize or manioc
laid on the branches of a stately motuia, while faces of beasts
or men are carved in the bark about its trunk.
The prevailing superstition casts its protection over property;
theft is seldom heard of; a trifling charm or piece of medicine
bark is enough to guard the most precious articles, however
exposed, from native hands. Civilization will kill the charm,
and inaugurate prisons.  Christianity ought to put the charm
in the breasts of the people.  It carries a medicine which is a
specific in cases of covetousness. The love of Christ in the
hearts of men ought to be a surer protection to their fellows
than a broken twig or scrap of bark.
Before the white mall could enter the town of Shinte, he was
obliged to endure the delay of a tedious interchange of messages
between the female master of proceedings and her lordly uncle.
Livingstone was vexed by this delay, because he was only
then finding out a very important feature of Balonda civility,
indeed we may say of African civility.  In the Makololo
country he had been preceded by the messengers of Sekeletu,
and found the villagers always expecting to receive him; here,
however, the case was different, and le had frequently frightened whole communities by his sudden appearance in their
midst, besides the inconvenience of missing the supplies which
he so much needed.  True etiquette requires that a travelling
party halt before entering a village, and send forward a messenger, explaining to the chief the character and objects of his
visitors.  It is then incumbent on the town to extend its
hospitalities, and the chief is glad to do the honors of the
occasion in his best style. The unwilling allegiance which Dr.
Livingstone was called on to render the dilly-dallying Manenko
turned out a good school to him, and contributed very much to
the facility of his future travels and pleasant intercourse with
the tribes.
When the invitation at last came from  Shinte the party




FULL UN-DRESS.                    143
advanced gladly, and upon a small valley of wonderful beauty
it broke upon their eyes, weary of the deep shadows of the
wood, like a fairy picture.  Gently meandering along the very
centre of the valley was a beautiful stream, and a little rivulet
came in from the west. There was the town, embowered in the
splendid tropical trees whose broad leaves lapping and woven
formed a splendid canopy, and everywhere in the arbor-like
grove the banana was seen, drooping its tempting fruit just over
the heads of the people. You remember the singular Bechuana
abhorrence of straight lines: everything, you remember, was
crooked; their huts were round, their streets were tortuous.
The square houses and straight streets of the town of Shinte
were a delightful change. These streets and huts, too, were
thronging with strange sights.  The remarkable poverty of
clothing in use in Balonda has been mentioned, but it must not
be understood that this is because of the poverty of the people,
or their greater ignorance as compared with their more southern
neighbors.  It is simply fashion, and you know there is no
disputing on that subject: fashion is fashion.  There may be a
fashion of going undressed or dressed.  The former is the
Balonda fashion. The skill which confines itself to the adornment of the ankles and  head  is there displayed in most
remarkable manner.  Their otherwise pleasant features are
distorted by the pieces of reed which they thrust through the
septum of the nose.  The hair is woven in a great variety of
patterns: the more common appearance is that of horns like a
buffalo; sometimes there is only a single horn protruding in
front. One of the most remarkable styles is almost startling to
the uninitiated beholder: the hair is woven into a great number of strands; these are all so arranged as to stand out from
the head, and are fastened at their extremities to a hoop of
light wood, so that the face appears at a little distance as if set
in a painful sarcasm on the nimbus with which the heads of
saints are surrounded.
The men are a little more conformed to our ideas of decency,
in that they wear aprons of beautifully tanned skins; and their
wealth of woolly hair enables them to rival their sable belles in
its awful arrangement.  Both men and women are eager for all
articles of foreign manufacture; particularly are they covetous




144                 BLOOD RELATIONS.
of the bright clothes which are sometimes exposed to their view,
and men or women think themselves splendidly attired if they
can get a few feet of such an article to wrap about the neck or
body. There is much regard paid to salutations and the forming of friendships. Parties approaching each other are expected
to stoop down and take up some sand and rub it on the arms
and breast. There are gradations in these salutations, however,
as in other matters. Great chiefs, for instance, only pretend to
take up the sand, and do not really put any on the arms or
breast; whereas one who is very polite, or desires to be considered so, carries a sort of white powder with him, and rubbing
that on his arms and breast, exhibits it to the person whom he
accosts; then, stooping down, places first one cheek then the
other on the ground, the meantime clapping his hands joyfully.
In many respects the people of Balonda won greatly on the
appreciation of Livingstone.  Their kindness and manliness
and politeness were more apparent as he became better acquainted with their customs.  His lady captain busied herself now in more womanly duties, and was quite assiduous in
providing such food as the doctor could eat, and proved herself
no less a gentle friend than a bold escort. Friendships among
the Balonda is a matter of great importance, and is sealed with
a most solemn ceremony. The parties who have agreed to become particular friends sit down fronting each other; beside
each is placed a cup of beer. With a sharp knife slight gashes
are then made in the clasped hands, the pit of the stomach, the
right cheek and the forehead of each. A blade of grass is then
pressed by each into his own wounds, and the blood is washed
from the grass in the beer. The parties then exchange the
cups, so that each shall drink the other's blood. After this
ceremony they are blood relations. The friends of each who
may be present are expected to share the beer. The most precious gifts are exchanged, and the friends are bound for any
emergency, and are pledged to assist each other in every possible manner. WVe can hardly pass such a ceremony without
remembering the blood of Him to whom all Christians pledge
themselves as often as they taste the emblematical wine which
he called his blood.  NWe are his blood relations bound in
sacred obligation.




CHAPTER VI.
THROUGH LONDA.
Reception at Shinte's Town —The Introduction-Private Interviews-Etiquette
of the Balonda-Love for Mothers-Slavery-Theft —MIagic Lantern-R-ainsIron-Works-Flooded Plains-A Charming Home-Death and Desolate Villages-Balonda Ideas of a Future State-What to Preach to I-eathen-Troublesome Guide-Burial of the Dead-MIandans-Sioux-Patagonilans-Beehuanas-Balonda-Sunday with Quendende-Beautiful Country-The Lotembwa
-Katena —Reception-Provisions Presented-Wisdom of Katema —CattleBirds in Cages-Birds and Beasts-Birds and Spiders-Human Spiders —Fevers
Again-Not much Impression-Heroislm of Livingstone-Lake Dilolo-Rivers
Run Northward-Mambari Traders-Influence on Border Tribes-Demands
of Pay for Passing Through Country-Expected to Fight-An Ox Given-A
Mlan Demanded-Sickness of Livingstone-bMutiny in his Camp-Its CureMIen Repent-The Quango at Last-Bashange's Tax-Cypriano di Abrue's
Kindness-Portuguese Possessions-Sweet Sleep-Angels.
ON  the mornino  of January 17th the spacious kotla of
Shinte's town presented its grandest appearance.  The kotla,
we may remark, is an open space commonly reserved in the
towns of this part of Afitica for purposes of public interest, and
renders service as temple, council chanber, or dancing hall, as
occasion may demand.  The throne of the chief was under the
broad leaves of a splendid banyan tree, which seemed almost
conscious of its dignity in spreading a canopy over a chieftain's
head.  Shinte was arrayed in his best.  The checked jacket and
kilt of baize were aided by a crown of woven beads and a waving
bunch of feathers.  Just behind the chief were seated a hundred
women, and nearly a thousand men were ranged in the broad
circumference of the place.
The guests advanced into the kotla escorted by the subject
lord of the matron captain of the wilderness march, who approached Shinte first, followed by Manenko's people, who did
the national obeisance in style.  Dr. Livingstone Nwas seated
under the banyan, which furnished a broad shade, facing the
chief.  Then came the representatives of all the sections of the
145




146           PRIVATE TALKS WITH SHINTE.
tribe, who saluted their chief and resumed their places. After
these, distinguished men did him reverence, rubbing their
breasts and arms with white powder. Then, suddenly, a host
of soldiers, bursting from concealment, rushed wildly toward
Livingstone and his men, brandishing their swords and shouting like demons; who, having tested the courage of their visitor
to their satisfaction, retired.
The audience was now opened by the husband of Manenko,
who, in an elaborate speech, declared the history and purposes
of the white man, which, however, he considered only lies, and
grounded his appeal in his behalf entirely on the generosity of
the Balonda and Shinte's habitual kindness. After him the
great men all had their talks, interspersed by the songs of the
women and encouraged by their applause.
During all this while the explorer sat quietly and surveyed
the novel scene, and at the close Shinte arose and retired with
conscious dignity, and the multitude dispersed to be lost again
in the ordinary affairs of life.
After the public reception, which was really only a display
for his entertainment, certainly one in which the visitor was
only a spectator, Livingstone was invited frequently to confer
with Shinte in private, and received many expressions of his
regard and of his sympathy with the purposes of the expedition.
But one great blemish spoiled the otherwise pleasant character
of this chief —he was manifestly in secret sympathy with the
slave dealers. The Mambari are allowed to erect their slavepens right under his eye, and nightly sorrows of parents bereft
of their children under cover of the darkness find no redress at
his hands. Dr. Livingstone threw his influence against the
wicked trade, but it was only the voice of one man. Yes, it
was God's truth, and though scattered only as fine seed, may
ultimately spread its blessed protection over those miserable
homes, and become a wall of principle against which the covetous importunities of cruel tradesmen in human souls shall beat
vainly, as against the breast of Christ.
The Balonda are on their best behaxrior in this town, and
the inexorable laws of society were seen everywhere in the
punctilious observances of the people. Social grades existed in
most unquestionable authority. The inferior would not pre



MAGIC LANTERN EXCITEMENT.              147
surne to omit their obeisance when a superior passes, but fall
instantly to one knee and maintain that posture until the great
one is gone.
One beautiful trait of the Balonda is their love for their
mothers. The more southern tribes are singularly indifferent to
those who give them birth; these are not so. It was charming
in these wild savages, their tender remembrance, even when
burdened themselves with years, of "minamma's home."  How
sad must be the lives of those who nurse this tender fondness,
when they are torn so cruelly away by the wicked hand of a
trade which merits their devoutest curses! WVhat more plaintive cry can find the ear of God than " O mother!" whispered
sobbingly in the deep, degrading prison-house of bondage?
TWhat more disastrous blight can rest on the life of man than a
mother's prayer for vengeance against hinl who robs her of her
child?
These people are poorly supplied with game, and their national diet of manioc has provoked the anathemas of many an
African traveller, for it is found all over the continent. They
are industrious, though, and intelligent. But while there are
gods many and superstition without measure, the people must
be watched, for with their fears the doubtful grace of thieving
is quite developed; and while they are specimens of absolute
honesty if there are signs of a charm about, or if the blind eyes
of some rude deity guards the treasure, they are conscience clear
to take all they can find if they can dodge the medicines and
the deities.
The magic lantern produced quite an excitement in Shinte's
town. The first picture exhibited was that of Abraham offering
his son. The picture, large as life and brought out vividly,
produced a great effect, and the story filled their untutored
minds with wonder and delight; but when at last the dagger
was seen moving toward Isaac, the women were wild with
fright and dashed away as if for life. Shinte himself was
charmed, and was deeply interested in examining the instrument.
The greatest trial to which Dr. Livingstone was subjected in
this country was the incessant rain; night after night the poor
little tent was beaten steadily by the great drops, and the brief
intervals during the days could not remove the dampness. But




148              IRON WORKS IN LONDA.
he was fully convinced of the great fertility of the soil, and its
adaptation to the customs and interests of civilized life. It may
be that these vast plains and forests are to become the storehouses of the world. There was a time when our western continent was as hopelessly benighted, and offered as small attractions to the old world, as Africa offers now. The times are in
God's hand: the future is wide and rich in possibilities.
After spending about ten days with Shinte, the travelling party
picked up their possessions and resumed their tramp.  Among
the industries which were noticed, as the party passed along the
lovely valley, were certain native iron works, for which the ore
is obtained in a range of splendid hills clothed in verdure
which wall the valley on the east. Indeed it is a matter of
deep interest that this continent, althouigh so little known, has
already revealed such an abundance of iron as merits the
serious consideration of the world; and the natives, though
untrained to think of manufacture as a means of income or
revenue, have still acquired much skill in subjecting this unsightly and unwieldy treasure to their convenience. The Manyeti, it may be remembered, who won the distinction of " pirates
of the Leeambye," were skilful artizans in iron; and in
Angola, in Eastern Africa generally, indeed over the continent,
the ore is tbund in good qualities and abundant quantities.
The kindness of Shinte now went in advance of the party, as
that of Sekeletu had done, and food was found in readiness at
every little village. Beyond the Leeba, which was crossed on
the 31st of Januaity, the route lay across a plain not less than
twenty miles broad, and travelled some days where rain-water
alone was standing from six inches to some feet in depth. But
though all this region, as indicated on the maps, is wonderfully
threaded by streams which contribute to the great river which
flows away across the continent, there seem to be no fountains,
but these tributaries of the great never-failing Chobe grow up
amid the bogs of the vast soaking plains.
Crossing the Lokalueje, the party encountered the old friends
so common on the rivers of the Bechuanas and Makololo-the
hippopotami-which excited the hope that the plains and woods
would soon again possess the attractions of animal life and
afford supplies of meat.




A CHARMING HOME.                   149
At the village of one Soana Molopo, they were a little
troubled through the guide who had been sent on from Shinte,
who made it his business to excite in every chief's mind the expectation of valuable gifts from the traveller. At the home of
a subject of Katema, Livingstone enjoyed a singular surprise:
this man Mozinkwa possessed intelligence far in advance of his
surroundings, and sharing his happiness was one wife, the
mother of all his children. Around the house this good lady
had quite a crop of cotton; and Mozinkwa's gardens and
hedges and court-yard showed that he too could handle useful
implements. They had also a garden of splendid potatoes,
while some large shade-trees, planted in the middle of their
yard, indicated that this fine family sought comfort intelligently;
but alas! brightest pictures fade; in a few months death camedeath comes to all-death came and the mother and wife whose
faithfulness had been the joy of the home was laid away in
silence and dlarkness. We who look in the grave filled with the
light of the cross do not know how dark it is for the heathen.
After death has once crossed a Balonda threshold, the house has
no longer any charms for the inmates, and the invariable custom is to abandon it. This superstitious horror of death causes
whole villages and towns to be abandoned at the most unexpected moment; within one week or month the town where a
traveller was entertained most hospitably, which was teeming
with happy people, he may find desolate, abandoned, dreaded,
and avoided even by the path, which has been changed. A question finds the explanation in the death of some chief man. This
suggests a feature of Balonda superstition which presents a
serious barrier to the gospel. While these people believe in
God, and seem to recognize the immortality of the soul, they
seem almost incapable of a single idea of heaven. They only
think of the dead as lingering about the familiar scenes of earth.
They seem painfully conscious of their nearness. They cannot
think of another world. Their ignorance holds them in a constant bondage of fear; they think of the departed as vindictive,
of their gods as full of vengeance, of their charms as summoning some unknown evil. Indeed in all heathen lands there is a
painful ignorance of love, and hardly wonderful either, since
only the poor sinful hearts must suggest their ideals or inter



150                  POWER OF LOVE.
pret the things which occur. It is this weariness of the dreadful which makes the heathen catch so eagerly at the statement
of God's love —it is so new, so refreshing. Because he is Love,
he is the more readily enthroned in the longsdormant affections
and faith of the people just coining to the light. It is not the
testimony of Dr. Livingstone only, but of all who have labored
for the enlightenment and conversion of the heathen, that nothing which can be said arrests the attention so quickly and holds
it so strongly as the story of the cross. It is all idle to go
about pulling down the idols: we need only set up the crucified
One over against them, and they shall fall of themselves, out of
the relaxing fears and confidence which have been banished by
the goodness and won by the love of the true and gracious.
Intemese, the guide furnished by Shinte, occasioned the party
no little delay by his petty stubbornness and strategies, which he
practised in order to prolong their stay within the boundaries of
his commission as guide, because he found that position a fat
place owing to the liberal orders of his master.  It was a piece
of this strategy which led his charge apart firom the proper
route toward the town of Katema to that of his father-in-law.
This gentleman was named Quendende, a fine old man as it
turned out, and one who entertained them over a Sunday with
real kindness and pleasure.
He had just returned from a funeral of one of his people
when the visitors arrived. Few things in savage life are of
more singular interest than the ceremonies of burial.  The
reader may recall very singular customs of certain Indians,
with whose habits most of them are more or less familiar. The
Mandans, for instance, take the body of their dead, and having
clothed it in his best robes and ornaments, furnish it with many
articles which are supposed most desirable, and wrapping the
whole carefully in soft wet hides, place the precious burden on
a scaffold some feet high.  In the course of time the scaffold
falls; then the relatives assemble and bury the remains, except
the skull; this they place on the ground, where there are perhaps a hundred skulls in a circle, all looking inwardc. About
this place of the skulls the women are often seen, sitting with
their work for hours at a time, holding in their laps the skull
of a dead child, and not unfrequently they are seen to clasp




fly,....... ----- - -
------ -----
------------








iURrAL OF THE DEAD.                  153
these skulls in their arms and lie down talking as if to a living
child, until they fall asleep.
The Sioux, of whom Fye hear so much, wrap their dead in
skins and lodge in the branches of trees; never forgetting to
place a wooden dish near the head, that the friend may quench
his thirst in the long journey he is supposed to have begun.
Among the Patagonians the dead are frequently reduced to
skeletons before burial, and are washed and arrayed in new
clothing once a year. The bodies, while being prepared, are
laid on platforms and guarded by the relatives, who, dressed
in long robes, strike the ground continually with spears or
staves, and keep up a mournful song to drive away the spirits,
who they fear are unfriendly to the dead.
The Dahomans, with all their cruelty and carelessness of
human life, always hold an inquest over. the dead, because, perhaps, the king reserves it as his privilege to do all the killing.
If the inquest finds the man to halve died a natural death, his
friends are allowed to begin their mourning, during which they
may not wash, but may eat and drink to intemperance if they
please.  When the coffin is ready the body is clothed in the best
attire and furnished with a complete outfit for a change when
he reaches the spirit land, and the burial takes place.
The Bechuanas, among whom Livingstone spent the earlier
years in Africa, begin the funeral service before death has really
occurred. As soon as the relatives of a sick man are satisfied
that his end is near they throw a mat or skin over him, and
draw it together until the poor creature is forced into a crouching posture, with the arms bent, the head bowed and the chin
upon the knees. In this agonizing position the last spark of
life is allowed to expire. The body is then borne to the cattlepen, where the grave is waiting, and deposited in a sitting posture, exactly facing the north.  The next operation is to pack
the finest clay tightly and carefully about the body, until the
earth reaches the mouth; then a few pieces of acacia and some
roots of grass are placed on the head, so that a few green twigs
may be above the ground. The slight mound is then raised,
and when completed a few bowlfuls of water are poured over it,
while the spectators shout as if applauding. The last scene at
the grave is the women pouring out their bitter lamentations.




154            SUNDAY WITH QUENDENDE.
The Balonda, whose custom suggested this digression, are
affected more deeply than many others on such occasions, because of their singular superstitions which hold them in dread
of the departed. Their funerals are occasions of great expense
and great confusion. Great feasts are spread, and during the
ceremonies there is kept up a clamor in which all seem striving
for mastery. There are loud, piercing cries; drums are beaten
with measured, solemn beats, and if there are guns they are
fired. All night long this wild scene continues, and is considered the highest honor possible to be rendered. Indeed, it is
more the amount of noise than the perfection of melody which
delights the savage. We can hardly dwell on such accounts
without deepest sympathy. How sweet are the Christian ideas
of death! How sacred and precious are the spots where we laid
our loved ones, hoping, with our eyes on the star of Bethlehem,
whose gentle beams were falling on the mound! How eagerly
we should hasten with the precious truths that may be so helpful and rejoicing to the hearts of heathen! But if Dr. Livingstone allowed his thouglhts to wander so long-there is no
question whether old Quendende thought him queer —Sunday
afforded good time for the ever-faithful and diligent man of
God to present the great teachings of the Bible to his friendly
host. But it is almost impossible to gain the credence of the
Balonda for the ideas of heaven or hell. They invariably meet
all advances on the subject by saying in effect: "We do not go
up to God as you do; we are put into the ground."
The country was becoming beautiful again; the valleys and
hills were clothed with lovely growth, and supported herds of
buffaloes, elands, koodoo and various antelopes; and the little
villages whichl were constantly appearing were cheering indications of industry and happiness. Even in Africa it is interesting to observe the gradual imprpvement in the general
appearance of the country as the towns of the great chiefs are
approached, just as a corresponding improvement is manifest in
the neighborhood of our larger cities.
It was about the middle of February when Livingstone and
his followers crossed the Lotembwa and passed on to the town
of Katema. They were not assigned a hut, as would have been
the case among the Makololo, or a roof, as would have been the




KATEMA IN STATE.                  155
case in Shinte's neighborhood, but were led out to the shelter
of some large trees, where they might provide their restingplaces themselves. But Katenma did not forget the claims of
the stranger on his hospitality entirely, for after a little time
there came a handsome present of food, which was vastly more
important than huts or roofs.
On the following day Dr. Livingstone was honored with a
public reception, as he had been at Shinte's town. The cerel
monies of this reception, too, greatly resembled those of the
former. Katema was found to be a good-humored, well-fed
looking man, and one who enjoyed a hearty laugh amazingly.
lie rode into the kotla mounted on the shoulders of an active,
muscular young man, who moved along quite easily with his
heavy weight of dignity. One striking element of this chieftain's character was his vanity; he could never be done with his
self-praise. But he was generous and wise. When Intemese
had given his statement, Katema placed sixteen large baskets
of meal, half a dozen fowls and a dozen eggs before his guest,
and, remarking that he did not wish a stranger to be hungry in
his town, said: "Go home and cook and eat; you will then be
in a fit state to speak with me at an audience which I will give
you to-morrow." But tall, vigorous man as he was, so genial
and courteous, he was subject to the same degrading superstitions which were seen in the humbler people of his country.
During the entire interview with Dr. Livingstone, he sat
waving a large bunch of gnus' tails between himself and the
white man, as a protection against any charms which might be
employed against him. This man was really the younger
brother, and held his position as chief of the tribe more by his
wisdom and kindness than of right. His brother was unkind
and foolishly alienated his own people, and prejudiced the subjects of neighboring tribes. Katema gradually took possession
of the hearts of the people, and gathered with them great
numbers of refugees from other tribes, until he became the
greater chief, and boasted of being the equal of Matiamvo himself. He did not exhibit the covetousness which had been so
annoying in some other towns, but received quite gracefully
the few little things which Livingstone was able to present.
Unlike their southern neighbors, the Balonda are singularly
8




156                BIRDS AND BEASTS
destitute of herds, and though they manifest the highest appreciation of cattle, and possess a land admirably adapted to pasturage, they have not learned to domesticate the few cows they
have. KIatema owned about thirty head, but could only possess
himself of the meat by hunting it as he would a buffalo or an
antelope, and was astonished when he was told how he might
appropriate the milk.
It is pleasant to think of men so far from the refinements of
civilization finding real delight in the charming little melodies
of the tiny canary bird. All about in Katema's country these
charming  little creatures were found in  neat little cages,
treasured fondly by the dark savages, "because they sing so
sweetly." Perhaps it is the gratuitous tutelage of the wonderful
choristers of their lovely forest homes which develops this
delicate love of gentle music, for the birds are on every bough,
twittering and singing as merrily as can be. But there are no
ravenous beasts: you know they cannot dwell with birds; there
seems to be no sympathy between the voice of song and wild
passions, even beyond the habitations of men.  We wonder
naturally whether the monsters of the wood fly from the sight
of innocence and glee-whether sanguinary instincts are inevitably rebuked by music.  Bolder cruelty among men has
sometimes mightiest resistance in the pure sweet prattle of helplessness. You remember it was a child playing by the brooklet,
tossing white pebbles into it, and laughing at its babbling,
which broke the crusts of carelessness and crime, and mellowed
the heart of one long thoughtless of mercy or justice, and hung
upon his eyelids a tear distilled of penitence, which heaven
received in redemption of its favors so long despised. But
there are meaner shapes of evil which whet their appetites for
crime on the sight of weakness and innocence: they are the
venomous spiders of society, who scheme, and watch, and wait,
and hide; their hate and harm  is by strategy and obscurity.
Boldness redeems even crime from our contempt, who despise
the mean malice which we only dread because we cannot see it.
HTuman spiders weave their webhs where human lions would blush
to roar. Human nature has its types in lower orders of life, and
among creatures of instinct only, as among those of thought.
The sunlniest bowers where sweetest gladness dwells reveal the




"A PLAGUE ON THE SPIDER."               157
beautiful deceits of the cunning foe of weakest life. The
lovely groves, redolent with the melodies of the various songsters, wear also the subtile drapery of the spiders, weaving.
And the poor traveller must be suddenly recalled from the
meditations of the place, must have his thoughts rudely dragged
from their free altitude of pleasure, by the quick, light, bloodcurdling tramp across his brow, or the sudden, sharp, painful,
imperceptible wound on his hand, to frighten the canary which
had charmed him, by crying, "A plague on the spider! "  The
first advances in the groves of IKatema which were made by
these venomous insects were in the night, and the self-introduction was acutely painful. This spider was found to be lightcolored and about half an inch in length. One of the ugliest
of the creatures is a black individual, with long hair, about an
inch and a quarter long, and three quarters of an inch broad.
A large reddish spider is seen as if in great excitement running
with wonderful velocity in and out, before and behind, around
and over everything.  It dwells in a hole, and has an ingeniously contrived door which moves on hinges, and when
closed completely covers and obscures the hole.  Nearly all the
species have beautiful webs, and display great ingenuity in so
adjusting them as to entrap the unwary victims of their desire
most readily.
The pleasantness, however, and healthfulness of the country
were not enough to prevent the return of fever, and before the
time for the departure from Katema had arrived, Livingstone
was again a sufferer by this enemy, more subtle than the spider
and stronger than the lion. The winter time had come, but the
thermometer was at 90~, and he could only toss about in his
tattered tent. He was tossing so all day on the 19th, but on
the morning of the 20th, he and his faithful band had their
friendly parting with Katema and his people. Livingstone had
not been able to make much impression on this vain chief
about the Bible. It is the experience of all missionaries that
the results are painfully small when all must be said through
one or two careless and lazy interpreters, who themselves care
nothing whatever about that which they are saying. But the
chief had furnished guides for the way before them, and they
might proceed confidently, if rather sadly. The heroism of Dr.




158              TRADITION OF DILOLO.
Livingstone was conspicuous now, as always, when there was
anything to endure or to dare. A burning fever-having eaten
nothing for two days-attended only by savages-he presses
away into the wilderness as cheerfully and resolutely as he entered it long before from Cape Town. About six miles northwest from KIatema's, they came to Lake Dilolo, the subject of
a tradition which occurred to Dr. Livingstone as possibly a
faint, lingering hint of the deluge.  "It is said that a long
time ago a village stood on the spot which is now covered by
the lake, and that a female chief, named Monenga, one day came
to the village and asked the wife of the chief man for some food,
but was refused, and taunted with her helplessness by the
woman, whereupon the Monenga began a song in slow time,
and uttered her own name —MIonenga-w-o-e. As she finished the
last note, the village, houses, people, fowls, dogs, everything,
sank into the space now called Dilolo."
It only required a few days to carry the party beyond the
dominion of Katema. They were about the turning point of
the waters, too, and the rivers were now running northward.
They were going somewhat west of north, and were getting
among people who are much more frequently visited by the
MIambari merchants than the more central tribes are. Livingstone found also that the people had a much stronger confidence
in the belief of the continued existence of departed spirits than
the more southern inhabitants of the continent. The idea of
buying and selling, too, began to take the place of giving.
Everybody wanted gunpowder or English calico, for the knowledge of money had not reached them, the Mambari using only
barter in all their transactions.
On the 27th of February they were on the banks of a beautifil! river, which reminded the traveller of his own lovely Clyde
in Scotland-the Kasai. The chief in the neighborhood, named
Kangenke, had furnished guides quite readily, and the men
were quite full of praise of their river. "Though you sail
along it for months," said they, "you will turn without seeing
the end of it." lN~ow, for the first time in all his long journey,
Dr. Livingstone began to be troubled by petty meannesses and
resistances and taxes and suggestions of violence. The people
of Kangenke practised on his party a trick for which they are




"AA MAN" DEIMANDED.                 159
notorious. One of them placed his knife where he felt satisfied
that one of the party would pick it up, and sure enough a young
man did pick it up, supposing that he had found it, and put it
in a basket.  The rascal who had planned the affair of course
knew that it had been picked up, and waiting until the party
had divided-a part having crossed the river in their canoeslie came forward, charging that some one of the party had
stolen his knife. A search of course found the lost property,
and the finding of it afforded a chance to impose a fine before
they would allow those still on the side of the river with them
to cross. At the village of Katende, also, on the 29th, Livingstone was called on to pay a fine for passing through the country. This demand was stoutly resisted. Indeed, it is sadly
apparent that these creatures have felt just enough of the influence of the outside world to make them the most unprincipled
thieves and extortioners. The wild animals, too, have fled from
this region, and there was no possibility of obtaining food except
at the hands of these ungenerous chiefs. Hungry and weary,
receiving no hospitality, undiverted by even the welcome dangers of wild beasts, the devoted man was hardly able to appreciate the splendid plains and valleys along which their journey
lay.
At the first village of the Chiboque the coolness and courage
of Dr. Livingstone was put to a severe trial. The chief of the
town, after making very gracious promises, and pretending
much sympathy with the enterprise of the expedition, suddenly sent a demand for a slave or an ox as tribute for the
privilege of passing through the country. And about midday
the chief Njambi, having collected his people, suddenly surrounded the camp of Livingstone to enforce his demand.
There is hardly an expression for our admiration of that wonderful man, experiencing in his heart Christlike feelings of pity
and love for these wild men; sitting quietly on his camp-stool
in front of his tent, parleying with this wild and wicked chief.
The surrounding party would frequently aim their guns at him
and wave their swords and spears. Sometimes it seemed impossible but that a terrible fight must occur. The noble band of
Makololo were true as could be, and carried themselves as men
who had rather a fondness for such sport.  It will be remem



160                A FIGHT AVOIDED.
bered that these men had been soldiers under the great chief
Sebituane, who with his own hand beheaded any man who
dared to turn his back in battle. They were trained to courage,
and it was Livingstone's full conviction that they would have
proven victorious over twice as many Chiboque as now appeared
against them, though only twenty-six in number.  At last,
when nothing else would do, Dr. Livingstone informed the
chief that he must decide the question himself, and assume the
entire responsibility if there was to be fighting. For himself; he
wished to pass over God's ground in peace; but if he was not
allowed to do so, he should certainly defend himself and people
against any enemy. This cool talk seemed to impress the chief
men that the business they had undertaken was to be quite
serious, and they began talking more reasonably. As the result
of the interview, however, Dr. Livingstone gave an ox, trusting
thereby to gain as much in moral influence as he might sacrifice
of their much-needed supplies of food. While journeying along
the forest paths, drenched with rain and now and then swimming the streams, terrible fevers again set in. Added to the
already severe trials that of an almost wandering mind, the
guides from place to place were now almost useless, and gave
much more trouble by their foolish and outrageous demands of
presents than would have resulted from their entire absence.
But the bitterest of all, about the 12th of March, not far from
the scene of the difficulty with the Chiboque, there appeared a
disposition to mutiny in some of his own party, which proceeded
so far that the missionary was near sending a few balls through
the heads of the troublesome individuals. Every step of the
way now was combated for against extortions, threatened war
from the tribes, complaints of his followers, and fevers which
seemed to feed on the anxieties of the occasion. Perhaps the
most terribly trying hour of the whole journey was in the little
worn-out tent at the encampment near the village of IongaPanza, who had acted with the most unpardonable disregard of
truth and manliness. The sufferings of the men since leaving
ICatema's territory had been so great and so constant, everything
had seemed to resist the progress of the party so bitterly, that
the followers of Livingstone became thoroughly disheartened,
and they began to discuss the wisdom of going back home.




THE GREATEST TRIAL.                161
The borders of the Portuguese settlement were almost at hand.
The grand object for which the wonderful man had toiled and
suffered during nearly two years, in which he had wandered
amidst the perils of wilds where no white man had ever ventured, was almost accomplished. The highway for civilization
and truth was almost open. And now the thought of abandoning all and going back. It was enough to overcome him in his
best and most vigorous days. It could not be, it should not be
he was determined, and after using all his powers of persuasion
he declared to them that though they returned he should go on
alone. The great man retired into his little tent and cast his
eyes toward God for help. They loved him  too strongly,
though, those friends of the year of trial. Soon they began to
gather about him, vowing that they would die before they
would forsake him; they would go with him anywhere; "they
had only spoken in the bitterness of their spirits, and feeling
that they could do nothing."  After this they were themselves
again, ready for any toil, for ally danger; and were frequently
overheard, when threatened by enemies, saying to each other,
"That is just what we want; let them begin."  They seemed
really anxious to reassure their "father," as they called Dr.
Livingstone, of their love and courage.
Although they were now so near the borders of the Portuguese settlement, the natives seemed singularly ignorant of
white men, and the straight hair of Livingstone was almost as
much a curiosity as it had been far back in the interior. The
Mambari do nearly all the trading between the whites along the
coasts and the more central tribes, so that even where there are
found many articles of European manufacture there is the same
absolute ignorance of the sort of people who make the wonderful
things.
It was the 4th of April when the party reached the banks of
the Quango, which bounds the territory of the Bangala, who
are the subjects of the Portuguese. On the east side they were
still in the country of the Bashange, the last of the border
tribes, and were suffering every form of extortion. They were
determined to make Livingstone pay for his passage over the
river by giving them one of his men to be a slave; while anybody who has followed the life history of the man to this point




162                  REST AT LAST.
is assured that he would have died a thousand times, if possible,
before he would have complied with such a demand. At length
a young officer of the Portuguese militia, Cypriano di Abrue,
made his appearance, and by his assistance the whole party were
soon beyond the reach of the impositions and difficulties which
had made their whole experience with the border tribes one of
bitter anxiety and want. No wonder they passed so gladly
along through the tall, waving grass, in the footsteps of the
generous and friendly half-caste sergeant. And it was a lighter
heart which beat in the little tattered tent that night, as it stood
in front of Cypriano's house, than had been in it for a long, long
time. And oh how thankfully the man of God, now almost
ready to fall under the weight of his labor for Christ and souls,
turned his eyes back on the great hidden world which lie had
partly found out and hastened now to make known; and forward to the anxious, waiting brotherhood in Jesus, who would
be glad to follow the thread of his journeys through those
wildernesses with light and truth!
W~e will believe that he rested sweetly that, night, and that
the attending angel guard, which formed the nearer circle
around him, looked on lovingly and with respect, and wondered
that weak men, for love's sake only, should so endure and toil.
The little village where the weary traveller had spread his
stormn-beaten tent so joyfully on the evening of the 4th of April
was very far from being such a one as' our imaginations might
the more readily picture, in contrast with the darkness and
degradation of barbarism. Angola, you must remember, is only
an out-station of enlightenment; but it is in the care of the Portuguese government, and its mongrel population have many of
the ideas and customs inseparable from the comfort of those who
have been accustomed to the feelings of security and fellowship
which legal government and enlightened society inspire. After
so many months of anxiety and caution, the pleasure of sleeping
under the authority of civilization, though absolutely in the hut
of a heathen, was an inexpressibly precious privilege.  The
small cluster of neat, square houses, with the groups of halfcaste Portuguese standing about, the whole nearly hidden in the
tall, waving grass which fringes the Quango on the west bank,
was the scene of our friend Cyprian6's dignity. In even such




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PORTUGUESE POLICY.                 165
society, and in so insignificant a suburb of civilization, Dr.
Livingstone's condition excited wonder and pity. Wasted by
sickness and staggering with fatigue, sun-scorched and ragged,
whoever had dreamed of the habits and comforts of white men
in their own light-favored and love-cheered lands would naturally wonder, and pity him and honor him. Cypriano was an
officer in the Portuguese militia, and was in command of the
little post onl the border. He received his guest with great
cordiality, and treated him with most careful respect and kindness
during the few days of his sojourn with him. He was possibly
a very favorable specimen of the half-caste population which
composes so important a portion of Angola society.  These
people furnish the large proportion of traders who penetrate the
" regions beyond."  They retain, of course, many of the features
of the tribe from which they are partly7spIrung; the dark shade
and the unquestionable wool are marklithich decide their negro
origin. Their Portuguese fathers, however, secured them the
advantage of education, and what advantage may be in the
name of Catholic.
The Portuguese policy at Loanda has been very unlike the
English on the Cape, and in some respects much wiser and
gentler. The English have encouraged an overbearing spirit
jn their subjects. The Portuguese have recognized the probability that the white trader will be tempted to oppress the
natives, and refuse to punish the community or tribe where
one of these traders is killed. This naturally makes the whites
cautious, and while it has not been enough to confine them at
Loanda, has led. to the employment of natives and half-castes
for trading with remoter tribes.
Dr. Livingstone reached Cassange, the most eastern station of
the Portuguese, on the 12th. He was received at the house of
Captain Nevis, who not only entertained him very kindly and
generously but provided also for his followers. There was a
feature of this settlement which impressed Dr. Livingstone that
these Portuguese can never be successful colonists. That feature was the entire absence of European women. The gentlemen come with no idea of remaining any longer than may be
necessary for the accumulation of some money. They generally
have taken native women into the temporary dignity of wives,




166              WOXDERFUL VALLEY.
and unhesitatingly recognize the offspring of these unions as
equals, and not uncommonly commit to them the most important trusts.
The village of Cassange is about half way from the Quango,
across the splendid valley which is waiting to become a granary
for the world. "This valley is perhaps a hundred miles wide;
clothed with dark forests, except where the tall grass covers the
meadow land along the Quango, which here and there glances
out in the sun as it wends its way northward."  It is the vast
reality of which the traveller said the view of the Clyde, from
the spot whence Mary Queen of Scots witnessed the battle of
Langside, is a miniature. The valley was entered on the 30th
of March, by descending a precipitous path from the table land,
which stood behind them now in the distance like a wall. The
eastern half of the valley is the home of border tribes, who have
learned meanness and cruelty from their imperfect acquaintance
with white people. The western half is the frontier of the
Portuguese, with Cassange for its principal town.
Of course we could not expect that such a station should have
anything of architectural beauty. The houses were built of
wattle and daub; but they were surrounded by considerable
plantations of manioc and maize, and furnished with gardens
where many different European vegetables grew splendidly,
and both native and imported fruits rewarded the almost careless efforts of the people. The Makololo, too, were delighted to
find here that ivory commanded greatly better prices than they
had dreamed of in their own country. They had been accustomed to sell two tusks for one gun, so that their surprise and
delight were almost amusing when they saw their leader receive
for one tusk "two muskets, three small barrels of gunpowder,
and English calico and baize enough to clothe the whole party,
besides large bunches of beads."
Many of these trading villages are to be found in this broad
valley, and the native Portuguese in them generally become rich
in a very few years.
Livingstone needed to quiet often-recurring anxieties in the
breasts of his Makololo as they drew nearer the coast. Their
confidence in him was stronger than their fears, however; and
though they were cautioned by some that the white people were




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THE " END OF THE WORLD."1              169
cannibals, and by others that Livingstone intended to make
slaves of them, they followed him trustingly and lovingly as his
children, as they called themselves.
Having been kindly provided with a guide by the commander at Cassange, the party resumed their journey on the
21st of April, an(l going twenty miles stood at the foot of the
Tola Mungongo, which is the western wall of this wonderful
valley, and after an hour of climbing were again on a lofty table
land, from which they could look back a hundred miles to the
borders of Londa. Geologists may find here, if they wish, a
problem. They may undertake to tell the world how long ago
it was when this broad chasm did not exist, but Tola Mungongo and Masamba Ridge were one. But while the scientists
are making their calculations, the world will move on, and history will be growing about these strange, wild cliffs, and nations
succeeding each other on table lands and valleys. The journey
to Loanda was attended now with only such delays as the kindness of the Portuguese at various settlements induced and the
barter with natives for food occasioned. It led them first along
a beautiful country, where splendid forests were threaded by a
number of beautiful streams and inhabited by "true negroes."
Then through the district of Ambaca, where the traces of Jesuit
labor linger in the intelligence of the people, and the men
themselves live yet in the love of those they sought to elevate.
After that came a mountainous region which delighted the
highland heart of Livingstone, and brought back to his mind
many a view which charms the traveller in his own dear Scotland-a region wildly beautiful and remarkably fertile. As
they came nearer to the coast the life was not so vigorous, the
scene became sterile.
On the 31st of May the party looked out on the Atlantic
from the brow of the hill which overlooks the city of Loanda,
where all at once, as the Makololo expressed it, the world said,
"' I am finished; there is no more of nme."




CHAPTER VII.
ANGOLA.
Anxiety-A Single Englishman-Sickness-Mr. Gabriel's Kindness-Settlement
of Loanda-Portuguese Failure-Two Things Unfortunate-Makololo at
Work-The Ship "a Town" —Livingstone's Relapse-Long Illness-What
Might have Been-Slave Trade-Slavery in Africa-Grounds of Livingstone's
Opposition-Negligent Cultivation of the Soil-Two Shillings a Month —
Fetich Worship-Portuguese Policy-Ivory Trade —Unpaid Labor —Mania
for Litigation —"Big Funerals "-The Poison Ordeal-Wild Animals-The
Self-denial-Looking Eastward-Departure from Loanda-Makololo Boastings
-The " True Ancients "-A Remarkable Insect-Ambaca-Church or JailCatholic Mistake-Pungo Andongo —On the Road-Difficulties of Ox-Riding
-Traders-Beeswax and Elephant Tusks-Liliputian Monster-Descending
from "Tola Mungongo " —Cassange-Drunkenness-The Quango Again.
THE city was strange; the sea was unconscious.  "Are there
friends in the city?  Are there tidings on the sea?"  The farewell had been spoken two years ago.  There had been no counsel, there had been no encouragement.  The wilderness had
been cheerless and the way had been long. The stoutest heart
sometimes wants to lean itself upon another heart; the most
vigorous frame may be worn by toil and anxiety. Is it strange
that the strong man staggered to the brow of the hill and confessed a sinking heart as he looked down on the city and out on
the sea? And is it wonderful that he was glad when he found
flowers blooming about the door of the only Englishman in
Loanda? Flowers are silent and frail, they are expressive and
powerful; they control human passions like love, and smile a
welcome sweeter than words may tell.  It is a beautiful thing
to enter a generous home across beds of flowers.  The.home of
MIr. Gabriel proved itself worthy of the hopes of the sick and
destitute man of God and friend of men who sought its door.
Dr. Livingstone was received like a brother.  But his strength
was gone. The brother's care was timely. Like a racer whom
no fatigue can master until the goal is won, he had triumphed,
but sank down helplessly in his success.
170




II
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-''K'  ii'IN',                N'                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Illil''I    I
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SETTLEMENT OF LOANDA.                173
The generous Englishman was glad to attend him in his
sickness, and happy in the privilege of surrendering his own
bed to the man who had known no better pillow than the
ground for so many months. And not only Mr. Gabriel, but
many Portuguese gentlemen were eager with their kindnesses.
Whoever has not felt the loneliness of such a life can hardly
appreciate fully the happiness of such attentions. The friendly
Makololo had been kind and zealous in his service, but they
were heathen, and the very kindness in which they proved their
love only provoked a deeper anxiety, for they were his care; in
their dusky forms all the ignorance and ills of Africa were
revived before him. It was very pleasant to be cared for by
equals, whose faces revived ino anxiety. The good nursing of
his friend, and the skill of Mr. Cockin, surgeon of an English
ship which stood in the barbor, with the presence of the warmhearted naval officers, were mightier, under God, than the illness, and Dr. Livingstone was soon sufficiently restored and
refreshed to be deeply interested in all surrounding objects.
Loanda itself, with its lofty cliffs casting their rugged shadows
on the sea, whose waves are forever breaking against their sides,
and its massive castle frowning from a beetling crag; its old
stone mansions and huts of daub and thatch; its motley populace of Portuguese, mulattoes and negroes; its harbor, where
ships of all nations display their flags, is a place worthy of the
traveller's attention. But, as the capital of Angola, it opens to
him a volume, imperfect still and indistinctly written, but carrying him back to the same eventful era in which our own land
was snatched out of the sea and made known to the world.
About the time Columbus discovered America, Diego Cam was
planting the ensign of Portugal on the coast of Angola; and the
city-" St. Paul de Loanda "-was founded in 1578. It has
been a splendid city. When approached from the sea, its forts
and castles, and domes and spires and stone palaces, all white
and gleaming in the sunshine-massive memorials of former
glory-contradict the thought of benighted wilds. When approached from the inland, the same stately structures burst on
the view like works of enchantment. White men lean over the
prows of their ships and wonder why so vigorous and decided a
messenger of civilization has stood powerless by the sea during




174               PORTUGUESE FAILURE.
three hundred years. The savage gazes down from the heights
and wonders what strange power it is that stands by their
forests and deals with people in the sea.
The Portuguese have not proven themselves equal to the
task of lifting up Africa. Their labor and long-continued sway
have been almost fruitless. The dilapidation of Loanda tells
the story of all their efforts in Angola. The marks of failure
are seen all over the district. The habits and customs of' the
natives are hardly modified; their superstitions are not dispelled;
their degradation is deepened. The white faces only supply a
contrast unfriendly to the black. The deserted convents and
broken crosses only cast heavy shadows on the barbarism they
have not enlightened. The civilization has only tyrannized
heathenism, and has not helped it. The curse of degeneracy
has followed their unfaithfulness, and settlers themselves need
reformation. Two things were unfortunate: the Portuguese
Government established the colony covetously, and, Roman
Catholicism established the mission. The colony could not be
a success which sought only wealth. The mission could only
fail which encouraged superstition and little more than changed
the names of gods. But the forgotten villages and lampless
altars must not discourage civilization or daunt Christianity.
They do not prove that Africa is irredeemable; they only call
our attention to a mistaken policy, and help us toward wisdom.
They furnish a field where ignorance has been bruised under the
heel of intelligence; where superstition sits helplessly under the
seal of Christianity. Angola, with Portuguese stations everywhere, and familiar with the names of priests and saints, cries
piteously to the Christian world, as does the heart of Africa.
One of two splendid cathedrals in Loanda is now a workshop, and the traveller saw, with sorrow, oxen feeding within
the walls of another.  Mlany miserable huts of wattle and daub
have crept in between the stone mansions, and half-naked black
men trust to their fetiches under the shadow of the walls where
the crucifix hangs, and parade their strange customs by the side
of European luxury. Darkness and light dwell together, and
about them a half-caste offspring. A strange embodiment of
intelligence and ignorance, of Christianity and fetichism, exerts
a growing power.




MAKOLOLO ASTONISHMfENT.              175
The Makololo attendants of Livingstone had shared the
kindness which was so generously bestowed on their master.
They had time to indulge their curious amazement, gazing on
the houses and churches and out on the sea where the various
ships were anchored. And when Livingstone was sufficiently
recovered to go with them, they were invited to visit an English man-of-war. The stories of foul play practised so frequently on black men made them a little timid; but they had
confidence in their "father," and soon the kind attentions of
the generous sailors made them feel perfectly assured. Their
confidence was almost reverence when they learned that these
men and their ship were here to put down the trade in slaves.
And they were delighted when they were permitted to fire off a
cannon, and told "that is what we put down the slave trade
with."  They were amazed at the size of the ship. "It is not
a canoe at all," they cried; " it is a town!"  They called the
deck the "kotla," but the rigging perplexed them, and they
were heard to say, "but what sort of town is it that you must
climb up into with ropes? " They had at last proven fully the
faithfulness of Dr. Livingstone; they had absolutely wandered
all through the great ship which they had been taught to dread
as the dreaded, cruellest bondage, as more horrible than death;
they had been kindly entertained by other white men, and handled without injury their great guns. They gathered about
their friend with absolute trust and affection.
The recovery of Livingstone was too speedy to be permanent:
a severe relapse confined him again to the bed of his noble host,
and a long and wearying illness cut him off from his followers
and held him a prisoner in Loanda. But Mr. Gabriel's kindness was unwavering and most assiduous. He not only nursed
his guest faithfully, but assumed again the care of the Makololo.
These active men won the admiration of those who saw them
by the promptness with which they engaged in their selfsupport, though strangers and visitors. In the absence of other
employment, they began a brisk trade in firewood, which they
brought in from  the neighboring forests on their shoulders.
They were then employed to unload a cargo of coal. This furnished them with something to tell when they returned to their
own people. It was a wonderful thing to be working hard a




176            SLAVE TRADE OF LOANDA.
"moon and a half" unloading "stones that burn," and quit
leaving plenty in the vessel. Indeed, everything in civilized
life is wonderful to these sons of the distant wilderness lands.
And the effect on the minds of these Makololo of their few
montbs' contact with Europeans, who treated them with special
kindness-a kindness secured by their association with the great
explorer-suggests the most hopeful results for efforts made in
the true spirit of Christ for the enlightenment of Africa. If
there had been no slave trade from Loanda; if there had been
fair dealing with the natives; if there had been a generous recognition of their manhood at the different posts of the Portuguese authority; if there had been clear Christian instruction
by the priests; if there had been no new superstitions engraved
on their ignorance; if the open Bible had been given them instead of the mysterious crucifix and the pictures of saints; if
love and honest instruction had been given in the place of
cruelty and vigorous mysticism, who will say that Angola
would not have been the bright spot on this continent long ago,
toward which the world might look with pride, and for which
the churches might glorify God?  We do not need to charge
the Portuguese with bringing about the slave trade beyond the
coasts. There is reason to believe that it was a part of African
life long before the settlement of Loanda. But it is a pity that
the cupidity of nominal Christians was so eager to embrace the
opportunity which the degradation of a people presented. It is
a shame in Christendom  that the miseries discovered in a neglected land could excite commiseration only when they had
satiated covetousness. No one thing so engaged the heart of
Livingstone as the suppression of the slave trade. We do not
need to confess our faith in all the venomous charges which are
brought against those who have owned men. We do not need
to question whether the actual condition of Africans held in
bondage in civilized communities is really better than the condition of those who shrink and shudder or curse and kill in the
wild land of their nativity. We do not need to consider the
question of the absolute guilt or innocence of slaveholding in
the light of the Scriptures, before we offer our hearty sympathies for the noble, life-long, efforts of this singularly consecrated
man to engage the heart of the world for Africa. And we




LIVINGSTONE'S OPPOSITION.              177
can pray with him when we find him importuning God out of
those wildernesses for the time when his truth may have turned
the darkness into light, and when no man shall invade the continent with chains of any other bondage than Christ's constraining love. He found that the slave system existing in various
parts of the country presented one of the most perplexing barriers to his work, and found, too, that, whatever might be the
contrast between negroes in America and their ancestors in
Africa, in Africa the contrast was against slavery. Wherever
he found the tribes distinguished by systems of slavery, he
found deceptions and cruelties and superstitions innumerable;
while in the tribes which denounced slavery, and counted every
man a member of the family of the chief, and called themselves
" men," he found generosity and kindness and comparative intelligence. As a missionary in Africa he could only lament the
slave idea, and, depending on his testimony of facts, how shall
swe not lament with him that idea, at least so far as it is connected with the internal condition of that unhappy continent?
And how shall we not be willing to sacrifice all theories and
privileges for the speediest redemption of those wild tribes?
Who is there that can withhold his applause and his help when
the conversion of Africa demands the closing of every slave
mart on its coast, and the moral influence of the world against
the systems of bondage that exist in the social structure of its
tribes?  Livingstone's denunciation of slavery in the abstract
was grounded not so much on any theory of justice and injustice, or idle prejudice, as on what he saw to be the evil influence
of the slave trade on Africa, and its natural antagonism for
African evangelization. He did not denounce the slaveholders
and go to Africa, but he went to Africa, and after long observation testified to the world that every slave ship which touched
that continent drove it into deeper degradation, and on behalf
of its hundred million souls pleaded against them. His heart
was encouraged by the presence of an English commissioner for
the suppression of this trade in the person of such a man as Mr.
Gabriel, and by the presence in the port of English power to
prevent it; but it was quite clear that the strictest vigilance and
the most sincere purpose had not been successful in effectually
preventing its continuance. The cupidity of the traders was
9




1 73                 LABOR IN ANGOLA.
too great and their wares too tempting.  The one secured them
possession of great numbers of the poor creatures, the other
foiunnd means to dispose of' them.
The abundance of this unrewarded labor throughout Angola
had probably been the cause of much negligence in the masters
of the soil.  The appliances of agriculture were almost entirely
wanting, though the soil is singularly fertile and offers a wonderful reward for industry. Cotton grows almost as freely as
the native grasses, and coffee, though probably imported, is
found in many places growing most luxuriantly and yielding
abundantly with hardly any attention.  Indeed, almost every
variety of fruit and vegetable and important article of agriculture is easily reared in the splendid valleys of this district.
Yet singularly enough there was found no implement of labor
except the peculiar Angola hoe with double handle, which is
dragged lazily along across the ground to make a place for the
seed, which when once deposited is left to its own vitality and
the favor of climate and soil until the harvest.  The labor of
cultivating the lands falls to the women. The men are not distinguisheci by as much industry as the women, and work so
leisurely at their weaving that they only produce a single web,
a few feet in length and twenty inches wide, in a month; receiving only two shillings for their task and material. There are in
various places ruins of manufactories, and traces of former
works in iron and copper.  The natives have become exceedingly fond of barter, in which they exchange with foolish prodigality anything they may get their hands on for such articles
as may strike their fancy.  Those who are held as slaves manifest a perfect mania for stealing, and are always ready with any
amount of lying to conceal their thefts.  Their chief food is the
manioc; and they are in consequence more effeminate than they
would be with a stronger diet.  They are, like many of the
more inland tribes, dreadfully superstitious, and cherish some
strange and. cruel customs, which spring from  their beliefs.
They can hardly be called idolaters in the strict sense of the
term, because the worship of idols implies an ultimate appeal
to a Supreme Being.  They are Fetich worshippers.  The
difference between them  and idolaters is that they do not consider the object which they bow down before as an image of an




PORTUGUESE POLICY.                    179
Unseen Being, but as itself possessing the power to which they
appeal. Perhaps there is no form of heathen belief so degrading and oppressive as this, none which leaves the worshipper
more a prey to his own vicious imagination, or affords such
opportunities for the abuses of the priests who minister at the
strange altars.
Dr. Livingstone found many traces of the early Jesuit teaching, which inspired him with respect for these men, as having
really sought to benefit those whom they taught; and in many
places they are remembered by the natives kindly, while the
priests who succeeded them are only re-ferred to bitterly.
There was nothing seen of the boldness and courage among
the natives which frequently excited his admiration for their
sable brothers in the distant forests which he had left.  The
prevailing slavery and military government of the Portuguese
have taken away whatever spirit may have distinguished them in
former times. The African is generally in great terror of firearms, and a dismantled fort with only a useless cannon fills
the regions around with awe and will hold entire communities
in subjection.
The country is divided with some regularity by the government at Loanda, and there are officials known as commanders
occupying these several districts, who, having little else to do,
and being poorly paid by their government, have time and
temptation to abuse the natives by all sorts of impositions and
extortions.  These gentlemen generally accumulate large properties and seem to enjoy great serenity in their little tyrannies.
These Portuguese authorities manage quite shrewdly to relieve
themselves of as much care as possible, and at the same time
maintain the real authority over the people, by taking advantage
of the gradations into which native society is divided.
" This man, for instance, is still a sova or chief, has his
councillors, and maintains the same state as when the country
Aas independent.  When any of his people are guilty of theft,
he pays down the amount of goods stolen at once, and reimburses himself out of the property of the thief so effectually as
to be benefited by the transaction.  The people under him are
dividecl into a number of classes.  There are his councillors, as
the highest, who are generally head men of several villages, and




180                 TRADE IN IVORY.
the carriers, the lowest free men. One class above the last
obtains the privilege of wearing shoes from the chief by paying
for it; another, the soldiers or militia, pay for the privilege of
serving, the advantage being that they are not afterward liable
to be made carriers. They are also divided into gentlemen, and
little gentlemen, and, though quite black, speak of themselves
as white men, and of the others, who may not wear shoes, as' blacks.'"
The lordly masters of the region manifest little concern
whether their subjects worship a bush, or the sun, or Christ, if
only their plantations and orchards yield abundantly, and their
pockets growing yearly more plethoric promise leisure and
comfort when they go back to their own country.
Next to the trade inl slaves, perhaps the most material export
from Loanda in the past has been ivory, which is brought from
the interior by means of slave carriers in great quantities; and
since the serious efforts for the suppression of the former, this
latter article is greatly increased in relative value. Slaves, indeed, are very cheap.  Dr. Livingstone mentions seeing a boy
twelve years old sold for a single fowl, which was the equivalent of only a pound or two of ivory. Almost fabulous numbers of tusks are brought out by the traders yearly. And as
there is no wagon way, and all burdens must be conveyed by
hand, there are great numbers of men who are employed exclusively in this labor. These carriers were formerly forced
into service in any numbers, as the demand might suggest; and
even now it is more a service of compulsion than willingness;
for the government, while almost forced in self-respect to enact
laws which have a show of kindness and justice, really encourages the disregard of those laws by the leniency with which it
regards their violation by the different commanders. Unwilling to relinquish its authority in Angola, the Portuguese home
government seems equally unwilling to support it by the necessary expense, and prefers to hire officials for it by rich opportunities rather than reasonable salaries. It cannot cancel the
opportunities without increasing the salaries, so the disregard
of all protective ordinances is winked at, and the natives serve
for nothing.
It is interesting to observe in the natives of Angola-who,




FISHING SCENE IN ANGOLA,
COMPULSJORY SERVICE IN ANGOLA.








" BIG FUNERALS."                   183
indeed, are more of the negro type than many of the tribesmuch the same disposition to imitate the more enlightened
white people, as we know to be a feature of negro character in
our own country, and naturally enough they succeed best in
those particulars which are least commendable.  The better
qualities in people hardly ever impress themselves as forcibly
on the minds of the untutored as do others. These Angolese
negroes, for instance, have developed a singular fondness for
litigation, in which they are reckless of all results if only they
may have the comfort of taking an antagonist to court. Livingstone mentions a case which came before the weekly court of
the commandant, involving property in a palm tree worth twopence. The judge advised the pursuer to withdraw the case,
as the mere expenses of entering it would be much more than
the cost of the tree.  "Oh, no," said he; "I have a piece of
calico with me for the clerk, and money for yourself.  It's my
right; I will not forego it." The calico itself cost three or four
shillings. They rejoice if they can say of an enemy, "I took
him before the court."
They have also a great ambition for titles and display, in
which the Portuguese, who have as little scruples about color as
they have about slavery, indulge them  quite freely. It is not
uncommon for them to invite these petty chiefs, whom they retain in a seeming authority for their own convenience, to their
feasts, and they always appear with a show of importance which
is sometimes extremely grotesque.
Funerals here, as in other sections, call forth the greatest
excitement and justify all the excesses imaginable.  The highest
ambition is a grand funeral, and furnishes occasion for more
than ordinary fobrethought. Frequently when one is asked to
sell a pig, he replies, " I am  keeping it in case of the death of
any of my friends." A pig is usually slaughtered and eaten on
the last day of the ceremonies, and itfs head thrown into the
nearest stream or river. A native will sometimes appear intoxicated on these occasions, and, if blamed for his intemperance,
will reply, " Why! my mother is dead!" as if he thought it a
sufficient justification.  The expenses of funerals are so heavy
that often years elapse before they can defray them. The rites
are half festive, half mourning, partaking somewhat of the




184                  POISON ORDEAL.
character of an Irish wake. There is nothing more heartrending than their death wails. W~hen the natives turn their
eyes to the future world, they have a view cheerless enough of
their own utter helplessness and hopelessness.  They fancy
themselves completely in the power of the disembodied spirits,
and look upon the prospect of following them as the greatest of'
misfortunes.  Hence they are constantly deprecating the wrath
of departed souls, believing that, if they are appeased, there is
no other cause of death but witchcraft, which may be averted
by charms.  The whole of the colored population of Angola are
sunk in these gross superstitions, but have the opinion, notwithstanding, that they are wiser in these matters than their white
neighbors. Each tribe has a consciousness of following its own
best interests in the best way. They are by no means destitute
of that self-esteem which is so common in other nations; yet
they fear all manner of phantoms, and have half-developed
ideas and traditions of something or other, they know not what.
One of the most distressing customs growing out of the superstition of these people is their appeal to the " poison ordeal" ill
cases of alleged guilt.  The draught is prepared by certain
priests or pretended diviners at a particular spot on the banlks
of the river Ina.  Its effects differ in proportion to the strength
or weakness of the decoction.  In a weaker state it remains in
the stomach and produces a horrible death; when stronger, it
causes violent vomiting, and is not fatal.  It is easily understood how the experienced priest who administers it may decide
the destiny of a poor victim  of the terrible delusion.  If the
draught causes death it is considered proof positive of guilt, and
many a poor wife or despised daughter has fallen a victim by
the agency of this appeal to the contempt or unfaithfulness of
her friends or husband.  It is an awful ordeal for the people,
but a fat place for the priest.
Some writers have spoken of Angola as abounding in wild
animals, but with very little evidence.  It seems generally
taken for granted that because there are ferocious monsters in
some sections of this continent that they may therefore be
assumed to be anywhere and everywhere.  There seems to be
rather an extraordinary absence of such inhabitants in Angola.
Even the few which may be there are so intimidated and spirit



THE SELF DENIAL.                   185
less that they take no part in the incidents of the day, and are
the victims of traps rather than arms.
Dr. Livingstone thought that he discovered a peculiarly dispiriting effect of the climate on the people themselves, which is
hardly in keeping with the idea of multitudes of wild beasts.
lie mentions that even the bulls are spiritless and serve like
oxen for riding.  "I never met a ferocious one in the country,"
says he.
The time at length came when his health was so far renewed
that he might resume his travels.  Lying in the harbor was an
English vessel, and her captain offered him passage homeward.
The temptation was very great. More than two years had
passed since he parted with his wife, fourteen years since he
entered Africa at the Cape. Oh how his heart longed for the
old scenes once more! The warm friends in England, the loving wife and children, and at Blantyre, on the Clyde, there
were dear cherished ones fading now, and forms growing
weaker every day. The mlurmuring of the sea might be the
voices of those dear ones calling him to receive the last blessing.
If he turned again into the wilderness, could he endure another
journey like the last?  Would he pass the hostile border tribes
safely?  Where would he again look out on the sea?  And
why should he go?  He was now convinced that there could
be no highway from Angola into central Africa.  W~agons could
not possibly follow his footsteps across the mountains and
flooded valleys, and through the covetous and unfriendly tribes
that had beset his life so resolutely.  And where in all that
region could he hope to establish a mission? And why simply
retrace his steps over so great a distance?  Why not yield to
the kind solicitations of his generous friend and look on the
hills and valleys of his own native land once more, and make
glad the hearts of his aged parents, and comfort his patient,
faithful wife, and smlile on his own children? Surely all history
cannot produce an instance of more delicate conscientiousness
and nobler benevolence than he undesignedly reveals when he
says: " I had brought a party of Sekeletu's people with me, and
found the tribes near the Portuguese settlements so very unfriendly that it would be altogether impossible for themn to return alone. I therefore resolved to decline the tempting offer




186            DEPARTURE FROMI LOANDA.
and take my Makololo back to their chief."  Is it wonderful
that such a man should be able to walk up and down among
savages? It was the spirit of Christ shining out in everything
he did which charmed them and made him a master, while he
called them his friends. There was, however, the additional
thought and desire that from the Makololo country he might
follow the Zambesi to the coast on the east, and possibly find a
highway for the gospel to the hidden homes of the millions of
poor degraded beings who were passing across the stage of life,
who were spending the probation for eternity in helpless ignorance and " passing away in darkness."
Furnished with a number of presents for Sekeletu, including
a horse and a complete colonel's uniform, and suits of clothing
for all the men why accompanied him to Loanda, and first-rate
specimens of the different articles of trade, and two donkeys,
which are the more valuable as being proof against'the tsetse,
which are the bane of the Makololo country, and having received letters of commendation to the Portuguese authorities in
eastern Africa, Dr. Livingstone and his followers left St. Paul
de Loanda on the 20th of September, 1854, after a little less
than four months, nearly all of which had been spent in painful
illness. A fresh supply of ammunition and beads, with a good
stock of cloth, was a precaution quite in place, and a musket
apiece for his men enabled them to present a more formidable
display, and bid a more serious defiance if it should be necessary
in passing the pugnacious tribes beyond the Quango.  The
Makololo had accumulated a considerable amount of treasures,
which made it necessary to increase the party by the addition
of twenty carriers, who were supplied by the Bishop of Angola.
The party had the company of Mr. Gabriel as far as Icollo i
Bengo, where they visited a large sugar refinery belonging to
Donna Anna da Sousa, a lady owner of vast numbers of slaves,
who seemed to be trying to furnish an illustration of how little
may be done by a multitude nominally at work.
They passed along some distance near the river Senza. Of
this region Livingstone says: "The whole of this part of the
country is composed of marly tufa, containing the same kind of
shells as those at present alive in the seas. As we advanced
eastward and ascended the higher lands, we found eruptive trap,




MPAIKOLOLO BOASTINGS.               187
which had tilted up immense masses of mica and sandstone
schists. The mica schist almost always dipped toward the interior of the country, forming those mountain ranges of which
we have already spoken as giving a highland character to the
district of Golungo Alto. The trap has frequently run through
the gorges made in the upheaved rocks, and at the points of
junction between the igneous and older rocks there are large
quantities of strongly magnetic iron ore.  The clayey soil
formed by the disintegration of the mica schist and trap is the
favorite soil for the coffee; and it is on these mountain sides,
and others possessing a similar red clay soil, that this plant has
propagated itself so widely. The meadow lands adjacent to the
Senza and Coanza being underlaid by that marly tufa which
abounds toward the coast, and containing the same shells, show
that, previous to the elevation of that side of the country, this
region possessed some deeply-indented bays."
The men experienced much inconvenience now in travelling,
because the hard, dry roads in the earlier part of the journey
caused considerable soreness of the feet. But their minds were
full of the wonderful things they had seen, and, like great children, they were ever planning narratives to be told when they
reached their homes again, and composing songs in honor of
their achievements. They would say to their leader: "It is
well you came with the Makololo, for no tribe could have done
what we have accomplished in coming to the white man's country. We are the true ancients who can tell wonderful things."
Some time was spent in the neighborhood of Golungo Alto,
enjoying the hospitality of the commander, M. Canto, who was
deeply interested in the improvement of the country. One of
the most remarkable little creatures in all Africa came under
the observation of Dr. Livingstone in this neighborhood; and
because the account is itself full of interest, and because the
accuracy of it illustrates a feature in the character of the man,
which has contributed very largely to the singular success of
his life, we prefer to give it fully in his own language. He
says: "Before leaving, I had an opportunity of observing a
curious insect which inhabits a tree of the fig family (Ficus)
upwards of twenty species of which are found here; seven or
eight of them cluster round a spot on one of the smaller




188                REIMIARKABLE INSECTS.
branches, and there keep up a constant distillation of a clear
fluid, which, dropping to the ground, forms a little puddle
below.  If a vessel is placed under them in the evening, it contains three or four pints of fluid in the morning.  The natives
say that, if a drop falls into the eyes, it causes inflammation of
these organs. To the question, whence is this fluid derived, the
people reply that the insects suck it out of the tree, and our own
naturalists give the same answer.  I have never seen an orifice,
and it is scarcely possible that the tree can yield so much.  A
similar but much smaller homopterous insect, of the family
Cercopidce, is known in England as the frog-hopper (Aphrophora
spumamria), when filll grown and furnished with wings, but
while still in the pupa state it is called' COckoo-spit,' from  the
mass of froth in which it envelops itself. The circulation of
sap in plants in our climate, especially of the graminacee, is not
quick enough to yield much moisture.  The African species is
five or six tirtes the size of the English.  In the case of
branches of the fig tree, the point the insects congregate on is
soon marked by a number of incipient roots, such as are thrown
out when a cutting is inserted in the ground for the purpose of
starting another tree.  I believe that both the English and
African insects belong to the same family, and differ only in
size, and that the chief part of the moisture is derived from the
atmosphere.  I leave it for naturalists to explain ltow these
little creatures distil both by night and day as much water as
they please, and are more independent than her majesty's steamships, with their apparatus for condensing steam; for, without
coal, their abundant supplies of sea-water are of no avail.  I
tried the following experiment: Finding a colony of these insects busily distilling on a branch of the 1Ricinzms comzmunis, or
castor-oil plant, I denuded about 20 inches of the bark on the
tree side of the insects, and scraped away the inner bark so as
to destroy all the ascending vessels.  I also cut a hole in the
side of the branch, reaching to the middle, and then cut out the
pith and internal vessels.  The distillation was then going onl
at the rate of one drop each 67 seconds, or about 2 ounces 5-2
drachms in 24 hours.  Next morning the distillation, so far
from being affected by. the attempt to stop the supplies, supposing they had come up through the branch from the tree, was




DISTRICT OF AMBACA.                 189
increased to) a drop every 5 seconds, or 12 drops per minute,
making 1 pint (16 ounces) in every 24 hours. I then cut the
branch so muelh that, during the day, it broke; but they still
went on at the rate of a drop every 5 seconds, while another
colony on a branch of the same tree gave a drop every 17
seconds only, or at the rate of about 10 ounces 4~ drachms in 24
hours. I finally cut off the branch; but this was too much fo'
their patience, for they immediately decamped, as insects will
do from either a dead branch or a dead animal, which Indian
hunters soon know, when they sit down on a recently killed
bear. The presence of greater moisture in the air increased the
power of these distillers: the period of greatest activity was in
the morning, when the air and everything else was charged
with- dew."
A splendid country was tempting them, which could be
reached by turning aside only a little to the west; and though
deeply interested in the delightful district of M. Canto, the
traveller contented himself to give up again the enjoyments of
a home for the hard path.  The country through which he
passed before coming to the far-famed " Rocks of Pungo Andongo" was not new to him, because it was on the route by
which he came some months before. Then, however, he had
been unable to appreciate its beauties; indeed, unable even to
notice the names and locations of points of interest as he passed
them. He was then so worn out by fever that he had forgotten
the days of the week and the names of his conmpanions.  But
now he could look away to the lofty mountains with real delight, and the splendid valleys of the numerous little streams,
teeming with herds and waving their agricultural wealth so
proudly in his view, charmed him. In the midst of a landscape so beautiful it was a disappointment to find only a paltry
village hiding itself as if ashamed in a recess of the mountains.
The town of Ambaca has the same history which makes nearly
all of the towns of Angola gloomy: it is the story of failuredeparted glory. There were the ruins of a church, and a jail in
good repair, which tells the whole story of the Portuguese
efforts in the country. The church system was too benevolent;
the Jesuits loved the natives too much. The church did not
fill the pockets of the Portuguese settlers or afford a revenue to




190               CHURCHES OR JAILS.
the government. It sought the people, more than what they
had.  The church was bad policy.  The government could
receive more from jails. So the church was allowed to become
a ruin; the jail was honored. It was a delusion of spiritual
blindness. The jail will be torn down some time or other
where churches are allowed to fall. People do not realize the
cost of jails. Larger revenues are obtained by strength of
authority, by measures of force; it is ignored that the revenue
is consumed in creating the force, in sustaining the authority.
Rulers have not fully appreciated the greater wisdom of so
elevating the people, at any cost, that every man's conscience
may become a constable who shall collect the dues of government and protect society. It was pleasing and painful to find
in the district of Ambaca some of the traces of the good but
mistaken men who had taught the people. It was pleasing to
find so many of the natives reading. It was painful to realize
that the long and other valuable labors of the Jesuits had left
no intelligent ideas of Christ. It was not their policy to commit the word of God to their converts.  The crucifixes and
pictures withstood too feebly the surrounding ignorance and
superstition. The Bible would have been powerful; it would
have been the centre of a growing light whether there were
priests or none. The failure or refusal of the Catholic Church
to employ the open Bible in their missions makes the ultimate
failure of them absolutely certain. There is no disposition to
deny that much noble benevolence and wonderful zeal has
characterized the labors of many of the singularly devoted
servants of this church; it is only lamented that they do not
adopt a policy which might be more beneficent and more effectual in the conversion of men. The simple fact that the forty
thousand inhabitants of the district of Ambaca are improved in
intelligence, and remember their teachers with respect, would
not satisfy the men who we trust sincerely desired their salvation finally and their emancipation now from the bondage of
heathen beliefs. We will hope that a day may come speedily
when a wiser rule and truer agencies shall change effectually the
songs of the people, and engage them more truly in the service
of Christ. Surely it is a sad mockery of the Master's commission to put his name on men whose hearts continue in most




PUNGO ANDONGO.                   191
degraded reverence of things inanimate. Livingstone was far
from reflecting severely on the Catholic Church or her servants,
but he could not fail to record a remonstrance, and he could not
record with pleasure even the most conspicuous self-sacrifice,
followed inevitably by such results. There could only be painful meditations tinging the pleasing influence of nature's charms
as the missionary explorer turned away from this singularly
favored and unfortunate district-favored in having heard,
unfortunate in having forgotten, precious, most vital things.
Crossing the Lucalla, he bent his way towards the paradise
of the country. He says: "In all my inquiries about the
vegetable products of Angola I had been invariably directed to
Pungo Andongo." On reaching the wonderful place he found
that the remarkable success of a single man in cultivating his
large estate told the whole story of the reputation the district
had gained. This man's name was Pires; he was commander
of the district. Coming to the country as a servant on a ship,
he had by industry made himself the richest man in all Angola.
His residence and the fort are under the shadow of a group of
"columnar-shaped rocks, each of which is more than three
hundred feet high." Of these mighty rocks Dr. Livingstone
writes: "They are composed of conglomerate, made up of a
great variety of rounded pieces in a matrix of dark red sandstone. They rest on a thick stratum of this last rock, with very
few of the pebbles in its substance. On this a fossil palm has
been found, and if of the same age as those on the eastern side
of the continent, on which similar palms now lie, there may be
coal underneath this, as well as under that at Tete.  The
asserted existence of petroleum springs at Dande, and. near
Cambambe, would seem to indicate the presence of this useful
mineral, though I am not aware of any one having actually
seen a seam of coal tilted up to the surface in Angola, as we
have at Tete. The gigantic pillars of Pungo Andongo have
been formed by a current of the sea coming from the S. S. E.;
for, seen from the top, they appear arranged in that direction,
and must have withstood the surges of the ocean at a period of
our world's history when the relations of land and sea were
totally different from what they are now, and long before'the
morning stars sang together, and all the sons of God shouted




192                   ON THE ROAD.
for joy to see the abodes prepared which man was soon to fill.'
The imbedded pieces in the conglomerate are of gneiss, clay
shale, mica and sandstone schists, trap, and porphyry, most of
which are large enough to give the whole the appearance of
being the only remaining vestiges of vast primeval banks of
shingle."
The little village, environed by these huge, immovable sentinels, is entered by narrow pathways, across which there are
beautiful little streams flowing, and has the air of quiet and
almost conscious security which is only natural in such a fastness.
It was January 1st, 1855, before the party were again on the
path.  The Makololo marched along proudly enoufgh.  All
along they passed the villages of the people who had excited
their fears when they were approaching the coast, and they let
no opportunity pass now which might be improved in reciting
their exploits. Their attentions to Dr. Livingstone were nlore
devoted than ever, and the happy confidence and comparative
freshness of the entire party enabled them to move on with
remarkable facility, though every man carried his own possessions. The method employed by the natives of Africa is something like that by which the Chinese carry such heavy burdens
with so much ease. The bundle or basket is fastened to the
end of a pole, which is placed on the shoulder. They have yet
to learn that the dividing of the burden strictly, according to
the fashion of the Celestials, would make their labor lighter
still.  In the engraving of the rocks of Pungo Andongo, the
travelling party is seen winding along by the base of the
gigantic pillars, with Dr. Livingstone, mounted on his vigorous
ox, in the midst. The Makololo could not become expert
riders; and Livingstone himself, indeed, found the method of
conveyance, as furnished by the particular animal which had
been raised to the dignity of his steed, attended with some inconveniences, in which the frequent most unceremonious precipitations into mud or sand or thorns or streams figured conspicuously.
All along the way there were passing parties of traders and
natives, with their heavy loads of merchandise for the market
at Loanda.  These consisted chiefly of elephants' tusks and




LILIPUTIAN MONSTERS.               193
beeswax. The great number of these companies afforded ample
opportunity for the " true ancients" to tell how they had themselves "entered the ships of the white men."
The absence in this region of those monsters of the forest
whose attentions generally furnish incident for the traveller's
story leaves us willing to notice creatures more insignificant.
It is a question, though, whether a certain tiny individual who
crossed Dr. Livingstone's path one day on Tola Mungongo may
be despised in any company. This Liliputian monster was none
other than a red cant. Livingstone may tell his own story.
"The first time," says he, "that I encountered this by no
means contemptible enemy my attention was taken up in viewing the distant landscape, and I accidentally stepped on one of
their nests. Not an instant seemed to elapse before a simultaneous attack was made on various unprotected parts; up the
trowsers from below and on my neck and breast above. The
bites of these furies were like sparks of fire, and there awas no
retreat. I jumped about for a second or two, and then in
desperation tore off all my clothing and rubbed and picked them
off seriatim as quickly as possible. It is really astonishing how
such small bodies can contain so large an amount of ill nature.
They not only bite, but twist themselves around after the mandibles are inserted to produce laceration and pain more than
would be effected by the wound." These savage little wanderers
are often seen moving along in vast armies, and look as they
cross a path like a brownish-red band two or three inches wide.
Such is their voracity, and such multitudes are there, that they
will, during a single night, devour the larger part of an ox.
They are the plague of rats and reptiles of all descriptions.
Descending the heights of Tola Mungongo on the 15th, and
passing rapidly across the lovely valley as far as Cassange,
Livingstone met again the kind welcome of the genial and
generous Captain Neves, and on the 28th he met the young
man Cypriano, who had so kindly come to his assistance on the
banks bf the Quango, when the Bashange disputed his right to
passage. But the young man had become so much a slave of
drink that he had hardly means to afford pleasant entertainment.
Already the traders were carrying this baneful article to the
distant chiefs. It is sad indeed that with the van of civilization




194               THE QUANGO AGAIN.
this curse of the world must ever find its way, sowing in every
new-found land the seeds of a second degradation, deeper, if
possible, and more hopeless than that of utter ignorance and
superstition. While the anxious laborer thought on this evil
and all the ills of Africa, and cast his thoughts back over the
strange condition of Angola under Portuguese rule, he stood
again by the banks of the Quango, arranging to enter the territory of the Bashange, who had learned only covetousness and
treachery from their white neighbors.
MOLE CRICKET.




CHAPTER VIII.
LONDA OR LINDA.
Lessons of Experience-Sansawe's Demands-His Refusal-A Blow on the Beard
-Revenge-Changing the Tune-Dandies and Belles-Lizards and SnakesSeven Thousand Fowls for Ten Dollars —Many Village Mania-The Seasons-Sister of Matiamoo-An Ox or a Man-Strategy-Trial for Murder
-Street Fight-Dish of White Ants-Lovely Bed of Flowers-God in Nature
-A Noble Chief-Shinte's Again-The Leeba-Life Once More-Buffalo
Hunt-Libonta Welcome-Thanksgiving Service-A Matrimonial Drawback
-Capsized in the Leeambye-Sekeletu in Full Dress-The True Ancients in
White-Promising Opening-Preparation for the Journey-Going EastwardParting Words of Mamire-The Tribute of Faithfulness.
EXPERIENCE is a famous teacher; its tuition has much to do
with a man's comfort anywhere, particularly in Africa.  Dr.
Livingstone had been the victim  of the border chiefs because
he was not absolutely certain that he could be anything else;
but he was of a different mind now, because he had learned that
a decided.cidMependence was not only the safest course, but the
kindest, aA it would check in the outset the aggressions which
no amount of patience could satisfy.  Therefore, when he
pitched his tent among the Bashange-this time by Sansawe's
town- he was in no mood to put up with the covetous impositions of that presumptuous gentleman. The party was hardly
settled, however, before he made his appearance, in true Balonda
fashion, mounted on his carrier's shoulders, and indulging in
any quantity of palaver; winding up, finally, with the expected
information, that he would return in the evening to receive his
dues. He manifested a little surprise when his supposed victim
replied, with rather uncommon boldness, that he need not come
unless he brought with him a present of a fowl and some eggs,
as a chief should.  In the evening he came, in his wonted
dignity, and after visiting the camps of some traders, who paid
quite extravagantly for his favor, made his respects to Dr.
Livingstone and presented "two cocks."  But when he re10                                          195




196             A BLOW ON THE BEARD.
ceived only a few trifling articles, and a serious lecture in the
bargain, he was, in a very unfriendly humor. The quiet indifference of Livingstone was a hint, however, which the reputation of the Makololo-a number of whom he saw about him,
in possession of first-rate muskets-emphasized quite to his
satisfaction, and there was no greater trouble than his harmless
frown. But a little farther on, after the party had ascended
from the valley and were on the table land once more, they met
a more resolute individual in the person of the head mall of a
little village, where they had been detained several weeks by
the siclkness of Livingstone, who had already fallen a prey to
the wasting fevers which had made his life almost a burden in
this country a year before; and besides the fevers he was now
afflicted with rheumatism.  It was hardly possible that he,
should be anything else than ill, drenched by day in the incessant rains, and sleeping at night on such beds as they were able
to rake up of the saturated earth and dripping grass. He.had
been forced to lie by many days, and was only partially recovered, when the incident referred to occurred. The said " head
man " had come to his camp and was bargaining and quarrelling
with some of his men, when one of them, not overly burdened
with the gentler qualities, administered a strikcitg rebuke for
some offensive speech. Nothing could atone for the " blow on
the beard."  The more the party yielded the more he demanded, until Livingstone determined to do no more and
departed.  They had not gone very far, and were passing
through a forest, when a body of men came rushing after them
and initiated an affray by knocking down the burdens of the
men in the rear. In an instant the AMakololo were on their
mettle and several shots were fired, and the two parties were
taking their places on the sides of the path for more serious
work.  Hardly able to walk, Livingstone staggered quickly.back and encountered the chief. That individual was hardly
prepared to welcome the appearance of "a revolver with six
barrels gaping into his stomach," and exhibited a singular reversion of fbeling instantly, and, trembling in every limb, cried
out, "Oh, I have only come to speak with you!"  It was
hardly necessary for the traveller to insist much on the frightened mob's immediate departure, and our party passed on in
safety.




DANDIES AND BELLES.                   197
The interminable forests and flooded streams, and the stupid
ignorance of the people who were found living in the gloomy
recesses of the country, all contributed to the difficulty of
their progress, and they had not yet come to the habitat of any
interesting specimens of animal life. After crossing the Loajima, the party made a little "detour southward," in order to
get off of the path of traders. Hardly anything is more disgusting and provoking than the air of importance of slightly
informed people, and in this the petty African chiefs who have
had some little intercourse with these traders are perfect masters.
The innocent vanities of the generous inhabitants of the more
secluded sections were rather entertaining than otherwise. It
may be a pleasing bit of information to the large class of our
countrymen of the Beau Hickman stamp, that even benighted
Africa is well supplied with dandies of as various whims as
those who dwell in the clearer light of American civilization.
There is, for instance, in the deep forests of Africa, the musical
dandy, who, with the daintiest air, thumbs his iron-keyed instrument in matchless huml-drum the night long.  Then there
is the martial dandy, who, like his American counterpart, delights in the display of soldierly insignia in safe distance from
scenes of strife.  And there is the effeminate dandy, who is
always seen dandling his canary in a cage. And the dandy
absolute, "par excellence" in the list; an aimless fop, who delights in the display of himself, with "lucubrated hair and
ornaments innumerable."  The ladies, too, who rejoice in their
snowy poodles, may be pleased to know that their sable sisters,
in the sequestered glens beneath an equatorial sun, arrange their
strands of beads about their necks with greatest skill, and,
esteeming themselves in full dress, are seen to simper artfully
while they fondle their charming canine "pets."  Civilization
cannot claim a monopoly of the ornaments of society.  For
every young man standing on a corner in self-conscious attitudinizing, there is a fellow, quite as self-conscious and fixed up in
his way, standing about the paths and huts of Africa. And for
every woman who lavishes caresses and baby talk on kittens
and puppies, there is in Africa a maiden or childless matron
who dandles creatures like them  quite as fondly, with equal
prodigality of gibberish quite as sentimental. It is so, on the
word of a serious missionary, just as we write it.




198             WORTH OF TEN DOLLARS.
The nearest approach to beasts of prey the party found, before
reaching the river Moamba, which they crossed on the 7th of
May (lat. 90 38' S., long. 20~ 13' 34" E.), were the lizards,
mice and serpents, whose peace they occasionally disturbed as
they struggled through the grass and vines which lay along the
route, and seemed to conspire with the zigzag paths to make the
traveller's progress as slow and wearying as possible.
There was one consolation, though, in the delays and toilsome
progress: food was cheaper and cheaper the farther they left the
borders of the white settlers. For the value of a penny a day
four persons could live on the fat of the land. Livingstone
mentions a purchase of tobacco which Captain Neves madethree hundred and eighty pounds for two pounds sterling, in
Angola. The same tobacco, in central Londa, would suffice to
feed seven thousand persons one day, giving each person a fowl
and five pounds of meal. Seven thousand fowls and thirty-five
thousand pounds of meal for about ten dollars' worth of tobacco!
One of the most common annoyances they suffered in this
journey was the disposition of the people in every trifling village
to detain them. This was a modest way of imposing a tax, as,
of course, the delay would involve a certain amount of expenditure. But even where the desire was in pure hospitality it was
quite as positive and persevering, and was generally pressed
effectually, because the furnishing of guides was conditioned on
submission. Once Livingstone became thoroughly provoked,
and attempted to advance without the guide. It might have
been well enough in some sections, but the particular locality in
which he chanced to be restored his patience thoroughly, for
after striking out in various directions, and every time coming
to a dead halt in impassable thickets, he gave it up.
There was no counting the villages. The African has a remarkable eagerness for many villages: there are no large towns.
Everybody seems to have only one ambition, and that is to have
a village. If only a man may have a few huts he is a chief, in
his own eyes at least. There was one thing which made the
present tour more unpleasant than those in which he was preceded by messengers of the chiefs, who had formerly been sent
to notify the villages of the approach of " the white man." The
sight of a white mnan always infuses a tremor into their dark




FEAR OF " WHITE MAN."'               199
bosoms, and in every case of the kind they appeared immensely
relieved when he had fairly passed without having sprung upon
them. In the villages the dogs run away with their tails between their legs, as if they had seen a lion. The women peer
from behind the walls till he comes near them, and then hastily
dash into the house. When a little child, unconscious of
danger, meets you in the street, he sets up a scream at the apparition, and conveys the impression that he is not far from going
into fits. Such things are not calculated to make a man feel
more at home there than anywhere else; but it is hardly wonderful that it is so. A white man must be a singular apparition
indeed to those poor people, and the more terrible because all
that they have heard of white people has been of a sort to excite
their fears. It has been the constant study of the Mambari to
prevent, as far as possible, the inhabitants of this secluded
region ever thinking of going themselves to the white people.
~We remember that the Makololo were constantly receiving
warnings in which the white people on the coast figured as very
monsters.
After passing lat. 120, they began to enter the country of
animals, but they were very shy, as is generally the case in
Londa. It was now about the middle of winter.  Of this
season Dr. Livingstone says: "The country at this time is covered with yellowish grass quite dry. Some of the bushes and
trees are green; others are shedding their leaves, the young
buds pushing off the old foliage. Trees, which in the south
stand bare during the winter months, have here but a short
period of leaflessness. Occasionally, however, a cold north wind
comes up even as far as Cabango, and spreads a wintry aspect
on all the exposed vegetation. The tender shoots of the evergreen trees on the south side become as if scorched; the leaves
of manioc, pumpkins, and other tender plants are killed; while
the same kinds, in spots sheltered by forests, continue green
through the whole year. All the interior of South Africa has
a distinct winter of cold, varying in intensity with the latitudes.
In the central parts of the Cape Colony the cold in the winter
is often severe, and the ground is covered with snow. At
IKuruman snow seldom  falls, but the frost is ikeen. There is
frost even as far as the Chobe, and a partial winter in the




200                SISTER OF MATIAMOO.
Barotse valley, but beyond the Orange river we never have
cold and damp combined. Indeed, a shower of rain seldom or
never falls during winter, and hence the healthiness of the Bechuana climate.  F'rom the Barotse valley northward it is questionable if it ever freezes; but, during the prevalence of the
south wind, the thermometer sinks as low as 420, and conveys
the impression of bitter cold."  " But," says he, " nothing can
exceed the beauty of the change from the wintry appearance to
that of spring at Kolobeng.  Previous to the commencement
of the rains, an easterly wind blows strongly by day but dies away
at night.  The clouds collect in increasing masses, and relieve
in some measure the bright glare of the southern sun. The
wind dries up everything, and when at its greatest strength is
hot and raises clouds of dust.  The general temperature during
the day rises above 960: then showers begin to fall; and if the
ground is but once well soaked with a good day's rain, the change
produced is marvellous. Iln a day or two a tinge of green is apparent all over the landscape, and in five or six days the fresh
leaves sprouting forth and the young grass shooting up give an
appearance of spring which it requires weeks of a colder climate to produce."
One of the pleasantest episodes of this journey, so full of
vexatious impositions and shrewd attentions, was the real kindness of a female chief, sister of the late Matiamoo, whose village
was next en route from  the one in which Dr. Livingstone's
truly Scottish effort at independence was so flat a failure. She
was so ladylike and graceful in her attentions and so liberal,
that Livingstone felt the acquaintance almost a compensation
for the former incivilities.  Real courtesy is not confined to
courts and city mansions, nor the peculiar charm of civilization.
There is a civility of the soul which is more delicate and helpful
than the formalities of most elaborate attentions, and it is a
beauty of God's creation that this sweet blossom  of his Spirit
begems the gloomiest as the brightest places.
But while the honest courtesies of Nya-ka-longa were suggestive of the greater comfort and easier progress which awaited
them in the country of old friends, to which they were drawing
near, they were destined to meet at least one other serious provocation. At the town of a chief named Kawaxwa they were




DEMAND OF C A MAN."                201
met by a very unceremonious demand for "an ox or a man."
This was a notoriously uncivil man to all travellers; he had
heard of the Chetoques having forced the party to give them
an ox as they went toward the coast the previous year, and,
encouraged by their success, presumed to attempt a similar levy,
unconscious of the change which had come over the spirit of
the white manll in such matters. The history of this affair, as
given by Dr. Livingstone himself, is so graphic and so illustrative of African life that wre prefer to allow him to put it in his
own way. "To this provoking demand," says he, "I replied
that the goods were my property and not his; that I would
never have it said that a white man had paid tribute to a
black, and that I should cross the Kasai in spite of him. He
ordered his people to arm themselves, and when some of my
men saw them rushing for their bows, arrows and spears, they
became somewhat panic-stricken.  I ordered them to move
away, and not to fire unless Kawawa's people struck the first
blow. I took the lead, and expected them all to follow, as
they usually had done, but many of my men remained behind.
WVhen I knew this, I jumped off the ox and made a rush to
them with the revolver in my hand. Kawawa ran away among
his people, and they turned their backs too. I shouted to my
men to take up their luggage and march; some did so with
alacrity, feeling that they had disobeyed orders by remaining;
but one of them refused, and was preparing to fire at Kawawa,
until I gave him a punch on the head with the pistol, and made
him go too. I felt here, as elsewhere, that subordination must
be maintained at all risks. We allpnnoved into the forest, the
people of Kawawa standing about A hundred yards off, gazing,
but not firing a shot or an arrow. But he was not to be balked
of his supposed rights by the unceremonious way in which they
left him; for, when they had reached the ford of the Kasai,
about ten miles distant, they found that he had sent four of
his men with orders to the ferrymen to refuse passage. They
were informed that they must deliver up all the articles mentioned, and one of the men besides. This demand for one of
the number always nettled every heart. The canoes were taken
away before their eyes, and they were supposed to be quite helpless without them, at a river a good hundred yards broad and




202               TRIAL FOR MURDER.
very deep. Pitsane stood on the bank, gazing with apparent
indifference on the stream, and made an accurate observation
of where the canoes were hidden among the reeds. The ferrymen casually asked one of my Batoka if they had rivers in his
country, and he answered with truth,'No, we have none.'
Kawawa's people then felt sure they could not cross. They
thought of swimming when they were gone; but after it was
dark, by the unasked loan of one of the hidden canoes, they
soon were snug in bivouac on the southern bank of the Kasai.
They left some beads as payment for some meal which had been
presented by the ferrymen; and, the canoe having been left on
their own side of the river, Pitsane and his companions laughed
uproariously at the disgust our enemies would feel, and their
perplexity as to who had been our paddler across. They were
quite sure that Kawawa would imagine that they had been
ferried over by his own people, and would be divining to find
out who had done the deed. When ready to depart in the
morning, Kawawa's people appeared on the opposite heights,
and could scarcely believe their eyes when they saw we were
prepared to start away to the south. At last one of them called
out,'Ah! ye are bad;' to which Pitsane and his companions
retorted(,'Ah! ye are good, and we thank you for the loan of
your canoe."'
In the town of this chief Livingstone witnessed a specimen
of justice, which illustrates one feature of the misery of the
people whose whole destinies depend on the will of petty chiefs
as distinguished for heartlessness as for ignorance. The chief
was judge, jury, and attorney, all in himself. The arraigned
was a woman who was accused of having caused the death of
another woman. The accuser was telling her story, when the
"court," who had paid no attention to the statement, except
simply to notice the nature of the charge, suddenly burst forth,
"You have killed one of my children, yours are mine, bring
them all to me," and the poor woman had to obey and see all
of her children pass into slavery. While these tribes manifested a somewhat belligerent spirit to our party, they are generally quite disinclined to settle their personal disputes by force
of arms. But now and then individuals among the Balonda
are known to clinch. On one occasion, an old woman standing




A FIST FIGHT.                   203
by Dr. Livingstone's camp continued to belabor a good-looking
young man for hours with her tongue. Irritated at last, he
uttered some words of impatience, when another man sprang
at him, exclaiming, " How dare you curse my' Mama?'"  They
caught each other, and a sort of pushing, dragging, wrestling
match ensued. The old woman who had been the cause of theaffray wished us to interfere, and the combatants themselves
hoped as much; but we, preferring to remain neutral, allowed
them to fight it out. It ended by one falling under the other,
both, from their scuffling, being in a state of nudity. They
picked up their clothing and ran off in different directions, each
threatening to bring his gun and settle the dispute in mortal
combat. Only one, however, returned, and the old woman continued her scolding till my men, fairly tired of her tongue, ordered her to be gone. This trifling incident was one of interest
to me, for, during the whole period of my residence in the Bechuana country, I never saw unarmed men strike each other.
Their disputes are usually conducted with great volubility and
noisy swearing, but they generally terminate by both parties
bursting into a laugh.
Among the many delicacies with which this wonderful land
tempts the epicure is a singular little " white ant," which many
of the natives consider good enough for anybody. They are
unseen, generally, and only when decided to colonize do they
rush out of holes, in streams, and enter on a tour of inspection; when they have discovered a desirable location, they
alight and with singular facility "bend up their tails, unhook
their wings" (which may be removed from the body without
any inconvenience if turned forward), and begin with greater
diligence the erection of their homes. When these colonies
are ready to start for a new district, they are nothing daunted
even by fire, but pass through it with a heroism worthy of
more elevated beings. They are caught by the natives (who
are quite skilful in brushing them into vessels) and roasted, in
which state they are considered better than the choicest things
the " white manll" can produce.
South of the Kasai they traversed extensive plains covered
with beautiful flowers and birds. The flowers were of tiniest
dimensions and most exquisite delicacy, and had the appearance




204                  GOD IN NATURE.
in many places of the richest carpet.  A wonderful thing about
this splendid fabric of nature's weaving was that it displayed
the phenomenon of successive bands, perhaps a hundred yards
in width, these bands all of different hues. In one the golden
hue prevailed, and the flowers varied in shade from  "palest
lemon to richest orange." Another band was blue; in shade
from the lightest tints to the deepest color. One flower on
these plains attracted particular attention. Being elevated but
slightly by its tiny stalk, this little gem seems to be set in the
ground; "its leaves are covered with reddish hairs," out of the
tips of which exudes a fluid, clear and glutinous, which glistens
in the sunlight like drops of dew or richer pearls. Truly it is
wonderful how richly and how skilfully the great Architect and
Builder of our terrestrial home has wrought of all things a paradise for us, whose wealth and beauty are confined to no single
zone, and are inexhaustible, though we explore the sea or land
or rise amid the stars or delve in deepest earth. And it is
wonderful how in it all he hath wrought his own image, and
by all things teacheth of himself. There are steadfast mountains, which tell of strength; and flowers, of tenderness.  There
are oceans whose unvarying ebb and flow murmur of eternity.
The stars, shining everywhere, suggest his omnipresence. The
sun, ruling all the realms, proclaims his authority..And
there are encircling heavens which hint of his encircling care,
while all things speak of goodness. And, thanks be to God,
nature tells all the story, in Africa as in America. It is only
left for the special deed of grace to spread its power abroad, correcting the special blindness of man incurred by guilt; then
God's likeness shall be seen and his glory stand revealed in all
his works.
Livingstone became convinced at this time that the latitude
of Lake Dilolo is really the dividing line of the waters; the
natives had noticed this and remarked it to him in advance of
his own investigations indeed. He had suffered his hundred
and twenty-seventh attack of fever on the beautiful plains of
KIasai and was so feeble that he could hardly walk, and lamented his inability to examine carefully a region which he
considered so exceedingly important.  But his sufferings were
too great, and the additional anxiety which the vomiting of




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77:;~.\~~~~~  ~                              ~                               HTEMA








A NOBLE CHIEF.                  207
blood awakened made it exceedingly desirable to advance with
as little delay as possible. Making all possible expedition, all
his wonderful energy and strength of will need to be in constant
exertion against the depressing influence of the dreary flat
country with its deep forest gloom. Possessed of that nature
which finds congenial companionship in the bold and beautiful
mountain scenery, and ill the wide ever-heaving and foaming
ocean, there was no prison-house conceivable more terrible than
such dull and dark monotony. And with the refined tastes of
thorough culture he could not submit to the isolation of society
so absolutely wanting in the slightest shadow of congeniality,
except in the most entire obedience to duty and unreserved consecration of soul and body to others. Such a life is noble and
sweetened by the love of Christ, but it is still a life of pain.
Self-immolation may be cordial and Christ-like, but it is
agonizing.
Leaving the Lake Dilolo by toilsome marches, the party at
length entered the friendly village of Katema, on the old route,
the 12th of June. He had now been three years away from the
Cape. They were no longer troubled by unkind impositions;
the people everywhere manifested much sympathy and respect.
Katema inspired Dr. Livingstone with real respect for him by
the generous and manly bearing which distinguished him in
their intercourse. He says: " He desired me to rest myself and
eat abundantly, and took care to see that I had the means of
doing so. When he visited our encampment, I presented him
with a cloak of red baize, ornamented with gold tinsel, which
cost thirty shillings, according to the promise I had made in
going to Londa; also a cotton robe, both large and small
beads, an iron spoon, and a tin pannikin containing a quarter
of a pound of powder. He seemed greatly pleased with the
liberality shown, and assured me that the way was mine, and
that no one should molest me in it if he could help it. We
were informed by Shakatwala that the chief never used any
part of a present before making an offer of it to his mother,
or the departed spirit to whom he prayed. Katema asked if
I could not make a dress for him like the one I wore, so that
he might appear as a white man when any stranger visited him.
One of the councillors, imagining that he ought to second this




208                   THE LEEBA.
by begging, Katema checked him by saying,' Whatever strangers
give, be it little or much, I always receive it with thankfulness,
and never trouble them for more.' On departing, he mounted
on the shoulders of his spokesman, as the most dignified mode
of retiring."
An equally pleasant reception was waiting for him at Shinte's
town. And it delighted his heart to observe that the information he was able to give that chief of the uses to which slaves
were put in Angola, and the proof he gave of the extortions
of the Mambari, seemed to open his eyes to the evil of allowing his subjects carried away into bondage. And parting on
good terms with him and his people, he journeyed on to the town
of his sister, through whose importunities he had formed the
acquaintance of Shinte as he passed up the country. Procuring
canoes of this lady, the party launched once more on the noble
Leeba, whose charming scenery had never faded from their
thoughts in all their wanderings. Everything was life along
those banks; all the old familiar game and the more savage
beasts made their appearance frequently, but were too cautious
to come within the range of the guns. The sight of so many
glossy hides and tossing antlers excited a craving for " a good
meal of meat." His tooth became so eager for service iii that
line that Livingstone began to look rather undecidedly on his
faithful old ox, "Sinbacl," which had carried him so many hundred miles. But the Makololo had come to count Sinbad as
one of the party, and their gentle protest was allowed to prevail.
The faithful creature fell a victim to the tsetse though and
ended his days at Naliele in peace.
Though now surrounded by game, the party had passed the
confluence of the Leeba and Leeambye before they had a feast of
flesh. This was given them by some hunters whom they met.
Livingstone had been so long out of the land of game that he
had lost his skill and missed everything he shot at. About
this time, however, he determined to try and retrieve his reputation with the gun; and having wounded a zebra, he slowly
followed alomig on the track of his men who had given it chase.
While thus alone, he suddenly discovered a single buffalo, a
huge bull, rushing madly toward him. He saw only one tree
on the plain, and that some distance off; there was evidently no




MIAKOLOLO RECEPTION.                209
escape, and he calmly raised his gun and waited for the monster
to come near enough for a fatal shot in the forehead. We have
noticed before his opinion of this animal. Nothing is more
trying than just such a position awaiting such a charge. But
the moment came. The aim was true and the tremendous animal bounded aside and rushing to the brink of the river fell
dead. Livingstone felt it to be an occasion for gratitude to
God that his life had been preserved.
The arrival at Libonta was indeed a great occasion. This, it
will be remembered, is the border town of the Makololo authority. They had never been received before with such demonstrations of joy. Livingstone's description of this scene is full
of interest. " The women," says he, "came forth to meet us,
making their curious dancing gestures and loud lulliloos. Some
carried a mat and stick, in imitation of a spear and shield.
Others rushed forward and kissed the hands and cheeks of the
different persons of their acquaintance among us, raising such a
dust that it was quite a relief to get to the men assembled and
sitting with proper African decorum in the kotla. We were
looked upon as men risen from the dead, for the most skilful
of their diviners had pronounced us to have perished long ago.
After many expressions of joy at meeting, I arose, and, thanking them, explained the causes of our long delay, but left the
report to be made by their own countrymen. Formerly I had
been the chief speaker, now I would leave the task of speaking
to them. Pitsane then delivered a speech of upward of an hour
in length, giving a highly flattering picture of the whole journey, of the kindness of the white men in general, and of Mr.
Gabriel in particular. He concluded by saying that I had done
more for them than they expected; that I had not only opened
up a path for them to the other white men, but conciliated
all the chiefs along the route. The oldest man present rose
and answered this speech, and, among other things, alluded to
the disgust I felt at the Makololo for engaging in marauding
expeditions against Lechulatebe and Sebolamakwaia, of which
we had heard from the first persons we met, and which my companions most energetically denounced as'mashue hela,' entirely bad. He entreated me not to lose heart, but to reprove
Sekeletu as my child. Another old man followed with the




210;             THANKSGIVING SERVICE.
same entreaties. The following day we observed as our thanksgiving to God for his goodness in bringing us all back in
safety to our fiiends. My men decked themselves out in their
best, and I found that, although their goods were finished, they
had managed to save suits of European clothing, which, being
white, with their red caps, gave them  rather a dashing appearance. They tried to walk like the soldiers they had seen
in Loanda, and called themselves my'braves' (batlabani).
During the service they all sat with their guns over their
shoulders, and excited the unbounded admiration of the women
and children."
It was a scene for angels' eyes; that good man pointing
those poor heathen away from their own prowess and their
charms and himself to God's goodness in returning, them safely,
after so long a time and such hardships. They heard him
gladly, and were lavish of gifts; almost every day oxen were
slaughtered. They manifested no concern about gifts for themselves; they were only glad to see the whole party back safely,
and were immediately engaged in collecting tusks for a second
journey.
The rejoicing of the men, after so long an absence, at being
once more in their own country, had some drawbacks in certain changes that time had wrought. Their wives had in many
instances grown weary of watching, and found a solace for their
grief in the wedded love of other men. The faithful Mashuana
was one of the disappointed ones, and he contradicted his philosophic declaration, a "Wives are plentiful as grass; I can get another; she may go," by muttering immediately, "If I had that
fellow, I would open his ears for him." For some of the poor
fellows who had thus lost their only wives, Livingstone interceded with the chief and had them repossessed of their loving
spouses; others he comforted with the reminder, that after their
loss they still had more wives than he. But that was an unsatisfactory reflection, in view of the fact that " while they were
toiling another was devouring their corn.-"
On the 13th of August, the party left Naliele and were gliding along very quietly when, most unexpectedly, they were reminded of the fact that they were no longer in the lifeless border
region. The hippopotamus which struck the boat lifted it quite




GRAND GATHERING AT LINYANTI.              211
out of the water and hustled the whole party out most unceremoniously, and looking back, quite indifferently, seemed to ask
derisively, " What has happened?"
The river villages had much the appearance of two years before. The entire descent of the Leeambye was a sort of ovation because of the joy of the villagers. There was another
grand gathering at Linyanti.  And the "braves," "the true
ancients, who had seen wonderful things," told their story to
their hearts' delight. The facts had lost nothing by the way;
facts hardly ever seem to be diminished by repetition. Sekeletu created a decided sensation when he appeared in his colonel's
uniform. The presents of strange and wonderful things were
received as unquestionable evidences of the truth of the most
marvellous accounts which the man could give. But when
the braves appeared in their white suits, and sat in the circles
with their guns resting on their shoulders like real "braves,"
it was a signal for the delight of wives and the envy of women
generally. The old looked serious, the young looked delighted.
Events were pointing toward the grandeur which no tribe could
hope to rival. The delight was innocent and commendable.
In looking back on his journey from Linyanti, Livingstone
felt that there was indeed a great obstacle to missionary enterprises in the character of the forests, the denseness and rankness
of the growth, and in the floods which occasion such virulent
fevers. But he believed, nevertheless, that the interior of this
country presents much more inviting fields for missionary labor
than the western coast, where successful stations have been so
long in operation. Though he suffered so greatly himself, I
could easily see how the habits of ordinary missionary life would
protect a man against such ills in large measure. Comparing
the interior with the west coast, he says: "There the fevers are
much more virulent and more speedily fatal than here, for from
8~ south they almost invariably take the intermittent or least
fatal type; and their effect being to enlarge the spleen, a complaint which is best treated by a change of climate, we have the
remedy at hand by passing the 20th parallel on our way south.
But I am not to be understood as intimating that any of the
numerous tribes are anxious for instruction: they are not the
inquiring spirits we read of in other countries; they do not de



212             PLANS FOR THE FUTURE.
sire the gospel, because they know nothing about either it or
its benefits; but there is no impediment in the way of instruction. Every head man would be proud of a European visitor
or resident in his territory, and there is perfect security for life
and property all over the interior country. The great barriers
which have kept Africa shut are the unhealthiness of the coast,
and the exclusive, illiberal disposition of the border tribes. It
has not within the historic period been cut into by deep arms
of the sea, and only a small fringe of its population have come
into contact with the rest of mankind. Race has much to do
in the present circumstances of nations; yet it is probable that
the unhealthy coast-climate has reacted on the people, and aided
both in perpetuating their own degradation and preventing
those more inland from having intercourse with the rest of the
world."
May we not hope that the growing interest in this vast degraded continent will overcome such barriers, and establish such
communication with the various tribes of the interior as will
make the most abundant labors for their conversion not only
possible but attractive? It is only just to the missionary, that
we remember, in the history of the explorer, that Dr. Livingstone was not spending his life in idle, aimless wanderings,
through any love of adventure or devotion only to science, but
that he might open a highway to the interior of Africa, in order
that he might establish a mission station there on a permanent
basis.
In pursuance of the idea which had affected somewhat his
action in returning directly from Loanda to Linyanti, he now
decided to follow the Zambesi to the eastern coast, and was
particularly encouraged to do this, as there was a good prospect
of water facilities all the way. In the midst of the preparations for this new journey, Livingstone found abundant employment instructing the people and healing their sick, and seeking
to reform their ideas according to the Christian standard as far
as could be. But his labor was very discouraging, but still was
not entirely without effect. Sometimes he was greatly perplexed, but at last could only remember the darkness and deadness of the unregenerate soul, and remember the heathen
gloom. The greatness of the undertaking argued its importance,




THE TRIBUTE TO FAITHFULNESS.            213
the discouragements of it called for prayer. There was no excuse for retreat. His hand was on the plough: he would not
look back.
" The mother of Sekeletu prepared a bag of ground-nuts, by
frying them in cream with a little salt, forming a kind of sandwiches, which constitute a dish which the Makololo consider
fit for a king."  Sekeletu appointed a nlan named Sekwebu and
Kanyati to head the party which should attend him. Mamire,
who had married the mother of Sekeletu, called for a parting
word. "You are," said he, "going among a people who cannot be trusted because we have used them badly; but you go
with a different message from any they have heard before, Jesus
will be with you and help you though among enemies, and if
he carries you safely and brings you and Ma Robert back again,
I shall say he has conferred a great favor on me. May we obtain a path whereby we may visit and be visited by other tribes
and by white men." This was the most influential man in the
tribe, and his interest in the enterprise of Livingstone was certainly encouraging.
He not only gave his blessing and his kind encouragement in
words, but added, "And as a man wishes, of course, to appear
among his friends after a long absence with something of his
own to show, the whole of the ivory in the country is yours,
so you must take as much as you can, and Sekeletu will furnish
you men to carry it." Such was the confidence and love which
filled the breasts of this people for a man who in all the years
of his intercourse with them had been uniformly consistent in
his own life and devoted to their welfare; a people by no
means stupid, or given to hasty confidences, the most formidable tribe in all southern Africa, and the most warlike. As
the reward of his faithfulness, Dr. Livingstone was thus adopted
by the children of the wilderness, and was allowed to employ
their own energies and resources in opening a way for Christianity.
1 1




CHAPTER IX.
THE NEW  EXPEDITION.
Sekeletu's Kindness-Explanation of it-Providence in his Work-November
3, 1855-Terrible Storm —Two Hundred Men in Line-The Niagara of Africa
-Victoria Falls-Rainbow and Superstition-The Batoka-A Network of
Rivers-The Explanation-Traditions-The First White Man —Batoka Chiefs
-Batoka Rebels-The Eastern Ridge-Longing for Quiet-Batoka, Generosity-A Reception-Livingstone's Courage-Power of the Gospel —Awe of
White MIen-An Incident —Missionary Influence-Animals-Buffalo BirdRhinoceros Bird-Soldier Ants-White Ants-An Elephant Hunt-Elephant's
Character-Indian and African Compared-Down the Losito.
IT is interesting to observe the readiness with which the
iMakololo put themselves again at the service of Dr. Livingstone in his efforts to bring the tribes into communication with
the white people and open the heart of Africa, to the sympathies
of the Christian world.  The wonderful life-work of this great
man, prosecuted so long and faithfully in Africa, presents a
pleasing contrast with many of thle enterprises of explorers,
which have been attended with great expense and the smallest
results.  With the inconsiderable salary of a missionary, Livingstone had traversed already many of the obscurest wilds,
awaking new aspirations in various tribes hitherto unknown,
softening the prejudices of different sections, and encouraging a
spirit of fraternity among those petty sovereignties which promised to ripen into a system of kindly intercourse that may
eventually substitute confidence for distrust and honest trade
for plunder and war.  And now  he sets forth on as long a
journey, so abundantly provided for and so well escorted that
he appears more like the servant of a king than a lonely toiler,
with no commission but his love for God and men, and no
backing but a character whose correctness commanded confidence.
It was because the heathen honored the man and confided in
his love, that they adopted him  and his work, and because he
found those heathen hearts so warm  and liberal, he felt that
he could endure all things for their good and immolate himself
214




THE EXPLANATION OF IT.              215
on the altar of their enlightenment. We honor Livingstone
for the purity and strength which could so charm and control
those degraded savages, and we are conscious of a deeper interest in the savages who possess hearts so readily charmed by
purity and in love with honor. The singular co-operation of
the wild tribes with a lonely missionary for the accomplishment
of ends which might dignify the noblest civilization, furnishes
a commentary on the missionary and on the tribes, unsurpassed
in history.
But it ought not to be wonderful that a single Christian man
should penetrate even those wilds and summon about him friends
eager to help him, for there is a power of kindness mightier
than the word of kings, and there is a providence of God
mightier than prejudice. We cannot fail to perceive the presence
of an influence more beneficent than chance and more sagacious
than human wisdom in the events which were gradually converting the life of Livingstone into that of an explorer. And
we cannot fail to perceive an influence superior to that of intellect emanating from this divinely appointed man. An edict
had gone forth among those tribes mightier than the desire of
a hundred missionaries, commanding their favor for those new
enterprises, and a law was prevailing in the camps of those
voluntary followers more potent than any outward show of
authority. The sign of the cross was the unseen banner over
Livingstone, the love of his heart was the unseen power of the
man: both were new in Africa: both are powerful everywhere.
By the favor of God and the power of love he enlisted the most
ignorant and degraded men in the highest and holiest service.
How real and how abundant their interest was is manifested in
the cordiality and perseverance of their attention. A more
warm-hearted and resolute body of men was hardly ever seen
than assembled on the 3d of November, 1855, at the town of
Linyanti, to attend the "friend of Sebituane " on his journey
to the sea. Sekeletu himself accompanied him as far as the
splendid falls of the Zambesi, and with his own eyes saw that the
large company which he had furnished for the expedition were
well under way and thoroughly equipped. Before they had
reached that point indeed, while still in the valley of the Chobe,
before reaching Sesheke, the party encountered one of those ter



216           TWO HUNDRED MEN IN LINE.
rible storms which distinguish Africa pre-eminently. The storms
of Africa even are wilder than in other lands; the clouds are
deeper and blacker and more angry-looking; the thunders are
hoarser and heavier, and lightnings flash more vividly. That
night was made absolutely dr'eadful; the swift successions of
pitchy gloom and glaring brilliancy as of the heavens on fire
were bewildering and terrifying; and a pelting rain, increasing
the discomforts of the hour, initiated the new enterprise which
was to be full of weariness and adventure.
Including the personal attendants of Sekeletu, the party comprised about two hundred men when it left Sesheke. One hundred and fourteen of these had been assigned as the special
companions of Dr. Livingstone. Some of the party floated
along in canoes, while others marched along the bank with
the oxen. They were following the same river which they had
ascended in the former journey. There is not properly any distinction to be made between the Leeambye and Zambesi. They
are names applied to the same stream in different sections of the
country. The distinction which has been made by some writers
is not sustained by the observations of Dr. Livingstone or other
travellers who have reached its banks; both names imply
" the river," and are applied to this noble stream as a distinction
of eminence because it is the great river of the country.
The grand, indescribable, mysterious scenery was a fitting
attendant of the song of the boatmen, which ran,
" The Leeambye! nobody knows
Whither it comes or whither it goes,"
and accorded well with the fables which were told of mighty
monsters which sometimes held the canoes of the natives motionless on the surface; and constituted a splendid introduction to the "grandest scene in all Africa," which was soon to
burst on the view of the traveller: for the Niagara of Africa
was at hand.
This wonderful spot has always inspired the ignorant inhabitants of the country with awe; they only view it from the distance. Its columns of smoke like mist towering toward the
clouds and its roar like angry thunder is all they know of the
mystery, where the Leeambye is lost in an awful chasm. They




THE NIAGARA OF AFRICA.                217
call the wonder Mosioatunya, " smoke sounding." But Livingstone called it Victoria.  "After twenty minutes sail from
Kalai," he writes, "we came in sight, for the first time, of the
columns of vapor appropriately called'smoke,' rising at a distance of five or six miles, exactly as when large tracts of grass
are burned in Africa. Five columns now arose, and, bending
in the direction of the wind, they seemed placed against a low
ridge covered with trees; the tops of the columns at this distance
appeared to mingle with the clouds. They were white below,
and higher up became dark, so as to simulate smoke very
closely. The whole scene was extremely beautiful; the banks
and islands dotted over the river are adorned with sylvan vegetation of great variety of color and form. At the period of
our visit several trees were spangled over with blossoms. Trees
have each their own physiognomy.  There, towering over all,
stands the great burly baobab, each of whose enormous arms
would form the trunk of a large tree, beside groups of graceful
palms, which, with their feathery-shaped leaves depicted on the
sky, lend their beauty to the scene. As a hieroglyphic they
always mean'far from home,' for one can never get over their
foreign air in a picture or landscape. The silvery mohonono,
which in the tropics is in form like the cedar of Lebanon, stands
in pleasing contrast with the dark color of the motsouri, whose
cypress-form is dotted over at present with its pleasant scarlet
fruit. Some trees resemble the great spreading oak, others assume the character of our own elms and chestnuts; but no one
can imagine the beauty of the view from any thing witnessed
in England. It had never been seen before by European eyes;
but scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in
their flight. The only want felt is that of mountains in the
background. The falls are bounded on three sides by ridges
three or four hundred feet in height, which are covered with
forests and with red soil appearing among the trees.
" When about half a mile from  the falls, I left the canoe in
which we had come that far, and embarked in a smaller one,
with men well acquainted with the rapids, who, by passing down
the centre of the stream, in the eddies and still places caused by
the many jutting rocks, brought me to an island situated in the
middle of the river, and on the edge of the lip over which the




218            THE NIAGARA OF AFRICA.
water rolls. In coming hither there is danger of being swept
by the island in either of the streams which rush along at its
sides, and the landing could hardly be effected except in very
low water, as was the case at the time of our visit. But even
on the island no one could possibly perceive where the vast body
of water went. It was only when I had succeeded in creeping
with awe to the very verge, and peered down into a large rent
which had been made from bank to bank of the broad Zambesi, that I saw a stream a thousand yards broad leap down a
hundred feet and then become suddenly compressed into a space
of fifteen or twenty yards.  The entire falls are simply a crack
made'inl hard basaltic rock, from the right to the left bank of the
Zambesi, and then prolonged from the left blank away through
thirty or forty miles of hills. In looking dclown into the fissure
on the right of the island one sees nothing but a dense white
cloud, which at the time we visited the spot had two bright
rainbows on it. From this cloud rushed up a great jet of vapor
exactly like steam, and it mounted two or three hundred feet; there
condensing, it changed its hue to that of dark smoke, and came
back in a constant shower, which soon wetted us to the skin.
This shower falls chiefly on the opposite side of the fissure, and
a few yards back from the lip there stands a straight hedge of
evergreen trees, whose leaves are always wet. From their roots
a number of little rills run back into the gulf, but, as they flow
down the steep wall there, the column of vapor, in its ascent,
licks them up clean off the rock, and away-they mount again.
They are constantly running down, but never reach the bottom.
"On the left of the island we see the water at the bottom, a
white rolling mass moving away to the prolongation of the fissure,
which branches off near the left bank of the river. A piece of
the rock has fallen off a spot on the left of the island, and juts
out from the water below, and from it I judged the distance
which the water falls to be one hundred feet. The walls of this
gigantic crack are perpendicular, and composed of one homogeneous mass of rock. The edge of that side over which the
water falls is worn off two or three feet, and pieces have fallen
away, so as to give it somewhat of a serrated appearance. That
over which the water does not fall is quite straight, except at
the left corner, where a rent appears, and a piece seems in



=  -s —----      -- ----
K~~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ _ _ _ _  
1!~2
I,
VICTORIa.A FALL (ua e 174).








RAINBOW SUPERSTITION,                 221
dined to fall off. Upon the whole, it is nearly in the state in
which it was left at the period of its formation. The rock is
dark brown in color, except about ten feet from the bottom,
which is discolored by the annual rise of the water to that or a
greater height. On the left side of the island we have a good
view of the mass of water which causes one of the columns of
vapor to ascend, as it leaps quite clear of the rock, and forms a
thick unbroken fleece all the way to the bottom. Its whiteness
gave the idea of snow, a sight I had not seen for many a day.
As it broke into (if I may use the term) pieces of water, all
rushing on in the same direction, each gave off several rays
of foam, exactly as bits of steel, when burned inr oxygen gas,
give off rays of sparks. The snow-white sheet seemed like
myriads of small comets rushing on in one direction, each of
which left behind its nucleus rays of foam. I never saw the
appearance referred to noticed elsewhere.  It seemed to be the
effect of the mass of water leaping at once clear of the rock and
slowly breaking up into spray."
Before Sebituane had expelled the Batoka chiefs from the fastnesses of the neighboring rocks and islands, they reverenced
this spot as the abode of Deity. Dr. Livingstone noticed
among several tribes dwelling along these rivers a decided awe
of the rainbow. They associate it with the gods. When seen
in the heavens it is spoken of as the " pestle of the gods," and
seen resting so quietly and beautifully on this strange cloud of
spray, reigning so serenely over the roaring, raging abyss of
waters, there is no wonder that it seemed like the throne of
Deity.
The Batoka, who were formerly the " lords of the isles," were
strangely cruel and tyrannical, and such was the light which his
inquiries brought upon their history, that Livingstone was almost willing to honor the warlike propensities of the late chief
of the Makololo, in so far at least as they had to do with driving
the horrid monsters from their fastnesses in these wild rocks.
The beautiful country in which they had their home exerted no
more softening influence on those savages than the beautiful
throne of their imagined divinity above the " Smoke Sounding" pit. And the children who recognize in some sort the
ascendency of the Makololo conquerors of their fathers, though




222              A NETWORK OF RIVERS.
restrained in some degree by a consciousness of comparative
weakness, dwell with pleasure on the stories of bloody barbarity which garnish their traditions. The son of the chief,
who felt the power of Sebituane's arms, was found residing
amidst the ruins of his father's town, with a contemptible hamlet growing up about him, and about his hut were to be seen
fifty human skulls hanging from the sharp points of stakes.
And he gloried in the possession of these skulls as memorials
of his father. Surely there can be no more affecting appeal to
the Christian hearts of our favored land, than the picture of a
son in mature years, delighting to gaze on the skulls of the
victims of his father's fierceness!
Before, however, suffering ourselves led away by the incidents
of the journey, it will be profitable and measurably entertaining
to take at least a glance back and around on the country which
holds the splendid falls, like a central glory, the climax of its
wildness and beauty.
There is, or seems to be, a thorough network of rivers, whose
courses are so tortuous and whose intersections of each other are
so singular that one is considerably puzzled in the effort to keep
distinctly in mind and avoid the confusion of confounding them
one with another. There is a prevalent characteristic of these
channels, too, which suggests the thought of sonme violent upheaval in a period more or less remote as the explanation of
their existence. But the absence of any tradition, however indistinct, which hints of an earthquake is almost conclusive
evidence against the reference of the problem to an event so
violent, particularly as there are many traditions which hint of
momentous incidents in periods manifestly more remote than
the existence of the falls or rivers even. "There was found a
tradition which resembled the story of Solomon and the harlots."
They have also their version of the tower of Babel, whose
builders abandoned their work owing to the inconvenience of
broken heads by the falling of their scaffolding, and vague things
about the builders of the tower having come out of a cave with
all the animals which hints of the account of Noah. It is hardly
reasonable that an earthquake of such extent and violence as
might have produced the wonderful fissures all over the broad
expanse threaded by these singular rivers would be entirely un



THE FIRST WHITE MAN.                 223
heard of. The observations of Dr. Livingstone pointed more
toward the conclusion that this remarkable irrigation is the result of the gradual elevation of the surface in a region formerly
occupied by an extensive lake, whose waters probably forced
their way along the cracks and deeper fissures made by the upheaval of the earth. The theory is sustained also by the character of the soil and the presence of certain shells identical with
those to be seen in lakes in other sections of the continent. The
rivers have each a double bed, the simple sharply cut furrow
in the calcareous tufa which probably lined the channel of the
ancient lake, and another bed of inundation.  When these beds
of inundation are filled they look like a great system of lakes.
Dr. Livingstone found no indications here of the country's
having ever been visited by a white man previously to his own
coming, although it has been asserted that the Portuguese had
possessed a chain of trading stations across the continent before
that time; though there were some evidences that the natives
had been in contact with white men. An old head man at the
village of Nanulanga remembered that his father had twice
visited the homes of the white men when he was a boy, and that
many of'the people had gone who never returned.
These people are decidedly inferior to the Makololo in all of
those characteristics which are pleasing in our eyes. The characters of their chiefs in earlier times had gone far toward forming their minds to cruelty and treachery. They had been
accustomed to a premium on those acts which involve the perfection of these arts of barbarism. Their personal appearance, at
best more degraded and negro-like, is rendered more repulsive
by their singular custom of knocking out the upper front teeth
of males and females, a custom which has a very insufficient
explanation in their desire " to look like oxen," but which is so
prevalent that one who has his teeth is considered very tugly.
They dwell in a fertile country and enjoy nearly the same
varieties of fruits as the inhabitants of Angola, and are abundantly supplied. Their country also abounds in the wild animals which were so seldom  seen by Dr. Livingstone in his
northwestern journey after leaving the borders of the Makololo.'While the Batoka wvere claimed as the subjects of Sekeletu,
a large part of the tribe had begun to disregard his authority,




224               THE EASTERN RIDGE.
and were understood to be in open revolt. Indeed the villages
of Kaonga were the last whose people were on friendly terms
with their conquerors. These rebels are enjoying the country
which was formerly the home of Sebituane, from which the
Matebele forced him  to seek a more secure fortress amid the
swamps of the Chobe and the Leeambye. And it was well
worthy of the admiration of the Makololo, who were tireless in
their accounts of the vast herds which their fathers possessed
when they lived there.
The route now lay more directly eastward than the bed of
the river, which makes a detour southward, finding its way
around the foot of the ridge which they were gradually ascending. The ascent was so gradual as they advanced that it was
observed more by the westward inclination of the streams and the
general appearance of elevation than by any remarkable hills or
mountains. The traveller was led along the gentle undulations
almost insensibly to an altitude of five thousand feet above
the level of the sea. There are none of the marshes along these
plains which generate the enervating fevers which have almost
swept away the Makolololo in the valleys. The whole region is
remarkably salubrious as'well as beautiful; many of the plains
are almost treeless and are covered with short grass. There is;
a noticeable absence of fountains, and the river Kalomo is the
only river in the whole section which never dries up. This
flows away southward after the Zambesi.
Though the Batoka of this region claim to be independent,
they have been sorely afflicted by the wars of the Makololo, and
do not enjoy their splendid country as they might under other
circumstances. They are sadly degraded, but were glad to hear
of a name which savored of peace and rest. Surely the weariness and misery of the heathen, tossed and torn as they are by
the convulsions of their untutored society, and by the evil passions of their hearts, though indeed they may not comprehend
their real need and though they may have never heard of Jesus,
is a prayer which will move the hand of God. It was, we
know, the pitiable spectacle of human sorrow which moved
him to compassion and brought his dear Son to be our Saviour,
although the Batoka could not understand the full import of
the message when Dr. Livingstone spoke to them of him whose




LONGING FOR PEACE.                 225
word is " peace on earth and good-will to men." It is not
wonderful that they seized the idea of peace so eagerly. Their
country has been visited by successive scourges during the last
half century, and they are now " a nation scattered and peeled."
When Sebituane came, the cattle were innumerable, and yet
these were the remnants only, left by a chief called Pingola,
who came from the northeast. He swept across the whole territory inhabited by his cattle-loving countrymen, devouring
oxen, cows, and calves, without retaining a single head. He
seems to have been actuated by a simple love of conquest, and
is an instance of what has occurred two or three times in every
century in this country from time immemorial. A man of more
energy or ambition than his fellows rises up and conquers a
large territory, but as soon as he dies the power he built is gone,
and his reign, having been one of terror, is not perpetuated.
This and the want of literature have prevented the establishment of any great empire in the interior of Africa. Pingola
effected his conquests by.carrying numbers of smith's bellows
with him. The arrow-heads were heated before shooting into
a town, and when a wound was inflicted on either man or beast
great confusion ensued. After Pingola came Sebituane, and
after him the Matebele of Mosilikatse; and these successive inroads have reduced the Batoka to a state in which they naturally
rejoice at the prospect of deliverance and peace.
They were remarkably generous with their offers of food, and
great numbers came out continually to greet the "white man."
It could only be painful to a man more anxious to benefit his
kind than to witness their follies, to see so many human beings
exhibiting even in their salutations their extreme degradation.
Few customs of men are more arbitrary than those which relate
to the reception of visitors, but of all hardly anything can surpass in absurdity that of this tribe. They throw themselves on
the ground, on their backs, and, rolling from side to side, slap
the outside of their thighs as expressions of thankfulness and
welcome, uttering the words, "kina bomba." And the m'ore
Dr. Livingstone attempted to prevent them, the more violently
they did him their eccentric reverence. This performance on
the part of men totally unclothed was a scene too painfully unmanly for amusement, rather one to provoke the deepest sorrow.




226         LIVINGSTONE2S COURAGE TESTED.
Livingstone gives an account of his entertainment at the first
of these border villages, which ought to have a place here in
his own language, as it illustrates some of the trials which his
own courage had to endure, as well as manners of the country:
" On1 the 4th we reached their first village. Remaining at
a distance of a quarter of a mile, we sent two men to inform
them who we were, and that our purposes were peaceful. The
head man came and spoke civilly, but, when nearly dark, the
people of another village arrived and behaved very differently.
They began by trying to spear a young man who had gone for
water. Then they approached us, and one came forward howling at the top of his voice in the most hideous manner; his eyes
were shot out, his lips covered with foam, and every muscle of
his frame quivered. He came near to me, and, having a small
battle-axe in his hand, alarmed my men lest he might do violence;
but they were afraid to disobey my previous orders, and to follow their own inclination by knocking him on the head. I felt
a little alarmed too, but would not show fear before my own
people or strangers, and kept a sharp look-out on the little battleaxe. It seemed to me a case of ecstasy or prophetic frenzy,
voluntarily produced. I felt it would be a sorry way to leave
the world to get my head chopped by a mad savage, though
that, perhaps, would be preferable to hydrophobia or delirium
tremens. Sekwebu took a spear in his hand as if to pierce a bit
of leather, but in reality to plunge it into the man if he offered
violence to me. After my courage had been sufficiently tested,
I beckoned with the head to the civil head man to remove him,
and he did so by drawing him aside. This man pretended not
to know what he was doing. I would fain have felt his pulse
to ascertain whether the violent trembling were not feigned, but
had not much inclination to go near the battle-axe again. There
was, however, a flow of perspiration, and the excitement continued fully half an hour, then gradually ceased. This paroxysm
is the direct opposite of hypnotism, and it is singular that it
has not been tried in Europe as well as clairvoyance. This
second batch of visitors took no pains to conceal their contempt
for our small party, saying to each other, in a tone of triumph,'They are quite a godsend!' literally,'God has apportioned
them to us.''They are lost among the tribes!''They have




AN INCIDENT.                   227
wandered in order to be destroyed, and what can they do without shields among so many?' Some of them asked if there
were no other parties. Sekeletu had ordered my men not to
take their shields, as in the case of my first company. We were
looked upon as unarmed, and an easy prey."
It is impossible but to admire the deliberate courage of Dr.
Livingstone under such circumstances. It was the same singular
disregard of danger which suffered him to give away at Linyanti
all but five of the guns which he had purchased in Loanda, and
undertake a new journey with only five, which enabled him to
sit so quietly defiant when he might really have been an easy
prey to their barbarity. The policy of travelling comparatively
unarmed through the country may have been wise enough, but
it was a piece of policy which required more nerve than the
average man possesses. It was a great consolation to Dr. Livingstone in thinking of this deeply degraded tribe to recall
the blessed results of missionary work among- the people of
Kuruman, who were quite as depraved and degraded as the
Batoka. We should not forget the wonderful power of the gospel, when we question the probabilities of the ultimate conversion and elevation of even the most barbarous people. There
is power in that precious word to melt the hardest heart. And
there is light enough there to drive away the gloom from the
most benighted intellect.
Another incident which occurred in this country illustrates
the power of a white face over these people, although they had
never before seen such a being.
As Livingstone and his party were approaching a village,
about evening, they met a man running to them, bound firmly
with cords, entreating to be released. He proved to be a man
from a neighboring tribe who had made a home in the village,
and had, without any show of excuse, threatened the chief man's
life, and he was about paying his own for the privilege of the
speech. Livingstone immediately took the case in hand, though
an absolute stranger, and, having bound the guilty man to do
no violence, released him. There was no complaint on the
part of the authorities of the town. His interference seemed
to pass as a matter of course. The awe which is inspired in
these savages by a white face is to be noticed as quite an offset




228                THE LOWER ORDERS.
to the otherwise perilous undertaking of missionary work in
Africa.
Both the condition of the people and the character of the
country impressed Dr. Livingstone as offering peculiar encouragements for the establishment of a mission in this region.
The people, though ignorant and depraved, would turn readily
to the sympathies and consolations of Christian laborers and
their message.  And the country, with its splendid climate and
a soil which yields the most desirable articles with lightest labor,
is unsurpassed in its offers of plenty and comfort. But he who
undertakes the duties of a missionary among such a people
must expect to accomplish their enlightenment very gradually,
and remember that he will have no special influence simply
because of being a " Christian teacher," for these people know
nothing of Christianity.  They must be made to respect his
superior virtue and strength of character, and to think of him
as their friend; then they will follow him readily.
Enjoying the abundant hospitality of these poor people and
the bracing effects of the beautiful scenery and salubrious
climate, Dr. Livingstone had time to notice a number of curious
and interesting individuals of the lower order.
It was interesting to observe the sagacity of the herds which
were feeding along the plains in the selection of their leader.
The leader of a herd is a very important member; the entire
body seem to put their lives in the care of the leader. It is
the duty of that dignitary to catch the faintest semblance of
danger, and all his followers repose implicit confidence in choice
of paths he may take for flight, and follow in his or her tracks
with reckless impetuosity. Of course it is important that the
most wary animal in the herd be selected for the leadership;
and the duty not unfrequently devolves on the most timid. No
greater calamity can befall a. herd than to have a leader killed.
The whole mass is immediately thrown into confusion; one attempts to follow another; they invariably lose much precious
time, only to scamper away each for itself in utter perplexity
and consternation.  Providence has kindly furnished some of
the larger animals with little winged sentinels, whose duty it is
to caution them of approaching danger.  It is no uncommon
thing to see a huge buffalo dashing along with his little feathered




HEAD OF BLACK RHINOCEROS.
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SOLDIER ANTS.                    231
friend, like a guardian spirit, sitting on his winers, or flying
gently on just over the object of its care. When the buffalo is
quietly feeding, this bird may be seen hopping on the ground
picking up food, or sitting on its back ridding it of the insects
with which their skins are sometimes infested. The sight of
the bird being much more acute than that of the buffalo, it is
soon alarmed by the approach of any danger, and, flying up, the
buffaloes instantly raise their heads to discover the cause which
has led to the sudden flight of their guardian. They sometimes
accompany the buffaloes in their flight on the wing, at other
times they sit as above described.
Another African bird, namely, the Buphagga Africana, attends the rhinoceros for a similar purpose.  It is called "kala"
in the language of the Bechuanas.  A:When these people wish to
express their dependence upon another, they address him as
" my rhinoceros," as if they were the birds. The satellites of
a chief go by the same name. This bird cannot be said to depend entirely on the insects on that animal, for its hard, hairless skin is a protection against all except a few spotted ticks;
but it seems to be attached to the beast, somewhat as the domestic
dog is to man; and while the buffalo is alarmed by the sudden
flying up of its sentinel, the rhinoceros, not having keen sight,
but an acute ear, is warned by the cry of its associate, the Buphaga Africana. The rhinoceros feeds by night, and its sentinel
is frequently heard in the morning uttering its well-known call,
as it searches for its bulky companion.
But many of the most wonderful objects in the world are the
most minute, and the soldier ants which were observed plying
their singular industry and carrying on their depredations are
certainly inferior only in size to the more notorious monsters of
the continent. These pigmean marauders have the true African
color, and when on the line of march generally go three abreast.
They are probably half an inch in length, and possess wonderful strength and energy for their size. They usually follow a
few leaders, who are untrammelled by any burden and furnished
with an extraordinary quantity of the peculiar poison in which
their special power lies. Like the red ants mentioned as being
seen in the western part of the continent, these are generally
found advancing in a straight line. "If a handful of earth is




232                   WHITE ANTS.
thrown on the path at the middle of the regiment, either on its
way home or abroad, those behind it are completely at a loss as
to their farther progress. Whatever it may be that guides
them, they seem only to know that they are not to return, for
they come up to the handfill of earth but will not cross it, though
not a quarter of an inch high. They wheel round and regain
their path again, but never think of retreating to the nest, or to
the place where they have been stealing. After a quarter of an
hour's confusion and hissing, one may make a circuit of a foot
round the earth, and soon all follow in that roundabout way.
WVhen on their way to attack the abode of the white ants, the
latter may be observed rushing about in a state of great perturbation. The black leaders, distinguished from  the rest by
their greater size, especially in the region of the sting, then seize
the white ants one by one and inflict a sting, which seems to inject a portion of fluid similar in effect to chloroform, as it renders them insensible but not dead, and only able to move one
or two front legs. As the leaders toss them on one side, the
rank and file seize them and carry them off."
The white ants on which these sable monsters prey, and whose
tiny skulls are to be found piled about their barracks, are of
more apparent service than their murderers. Upon such tiny
laborers the great Author of all had devolved the task of preserving and improving the soil which the indolent human inhabitants do not appreciate. They are appointed to the herculean task of clearing away and burying the vast quantities of
decaying vegetable matter which abounds in the vast wildernesses. It is wonderful by what puny agents many of the most
colossal works of time are accomplished.  The tiny toilers on
land and tiny toilers in the sea are rearing monuments to industry and instinct which shame the boastful wisdom and strength
of man. These little ants labor too with much system and art.
They generally perform their work without coming where they
may be seen more than they are obliged to, and it is astonishing how rapidly they work. Dr. Livingstone was accustomed
to spread grass in considerable quantities under the mat on
which he slept, and frequently these little sawyers would remove the entire supply during a single day and necessitate a
new bed for the second night. Indeed, we need only a fuller




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AN ELEPHANT HUNT.                   235
knowledge of the world we live in, with all its wonderful system  of adaptations, that we may praise God more heartily,
and adore him more devoutly for his wisdom and goodness,
and prefer the keeping of his love.
As the journey extended the country became more and more
beautiful and abounding in large game. On the 14th of December, in a lovely valley, they came upon a buffalo, and while
attempting to secure him, found themselves suddenly confronted
by three elephants, one of which Dr. Livingstone managed to
cripple by a first shot. This one they then easily killed. The
next day was distinguished by a grand elephant-hunt, in which
the devoted followers engaged to " show their father what sort
of men he had."  Although scenes of the kind were only painful to Livingstone, and possessed of none of the charm which
causes the ordinary traveller to revel-in stories of slaughter,
he has still furnished a thrilling account of this exploit of his
nen.
He had retired from  the noise of the camp, where the men
were cutting up the elephant which he had shot the day before,
that he might make an examination of some rocks, when glancing casually across the valley he saw a pair of elephants, a female and her calf, quietly enjoying themselves by the side of a
little stream, and beyond them a long line of his men, who
were manifestly approaching their unsuspecting victims with no
good intentions. The noble creature, totally "' unconscious of the
approach of an enemy, stood for some time suckling her young
one, which seemed about two years old; they then went into a
pit containing mud, and smeared themselves all over with it,
the little one frisking about his dam, flapping his ears and
tossing his trunk incessantly, in elephantine fashion. She kept
flapping her ears and wagging her tail as if in the height of
enjoyment. Then began the piping of her enemies, which was
performed by blowing into a tube, or the hands closed together,
as boys do into a key. They call out to attract the animal's
attention,
"'0 chief! chief! we have come to kill you.
O chief! chief! many more will die besides you,' etc.'The gods have said it,' etc., etc.
Both animals expanded their ears and listened, then left their
12




236             ELEPHANT'S CHARACTER.
bath as the crowd rushed toward them. The little one ran forward toward the end of the valley, but, seeing the men there,
returned to his dam. She placed herself on the danger side of
her calf, and passed her proboscis over it again and again, as
if to assure it of safety. She frequently looked back to the
men, who kept up an incessant shouting, singing, and piping;
then looked at her young one and ran after it, sometimes sideways, as if her feelings were divided between her anxiety to
protect her offspring and desire to revenge the temerity of her
persecutors. The men kept about a hundred yards in her rear,
and some that distance from her flanks, and continued thus
until she was obliged to cross a rivulet. The time spent in
descending and getting up the opposite bank allowed of their
coming up to the edge, and discharging their spears at about
twenty yards distance. After the first discharge she appeared
with her sides red with blood, and, beginning to flee for her own
life, seemed to think no more of her young. The calf soon ran
into a neighboring stream  and was killed. The dam moved
more and more slowly, and, finally, with a shriek of rage, turned
and charged furiously upon her pursuers. These charges she
continued, wheeling when she found they had eluded her, until
she sunk down dead."
No animal within the range of our knowledge more justly
receives the attention and the admiration of men than the elephant; none betrays nobler instincts and such remarkable
sagacity. They have figured prominently in the history of the
world for many hundreds of years. There seems to be no very
great difficulty about making them gentle and serviceable when
once they have been captured; and when once they acknowledge
the authority of a man they become singularly obedient and
devoted. We remember that on one occasion an elephant,
which had been accustomed to the authority of hi's master, was
seduced from his allegiance and joined his fellows in their wild
life of the forest. Quite a long time after his running away,
the master was out hunting elephants, and coming upon a herd
thought that in the number he recognized his old servant, and
immediately advancing to his side and calling him by name was
astonished to see the powerful beast turn kindly to him and
submit with the easiest grace to his command, suffering him to




DOWN THE LOSITO.                  237
mount his back as of old and guide him with perfect east. The
African elephant is considered larger than those of India and
those of the southern sections. Those, however, on the eastern
ridge, where Dr. Livingstone witnessed the exploit of his men,
are not generally larger than those of India. They are distinguished, however, more clearly from their Indian cousins by
their ears, which are enormous. It is worthy of remark, in this
connection, that there is an appreciable diminution in the size
and vigor of all animals, including man, in proportion as food
is more abundant, and tropical climates are apparently unfavorable to the development of either man or beast.
But Semalembue is waiting for our attentions, and we must
turn our backs on the lovely valley with its teeming herds.
The way to the residence of that chief lay down the Losito
and through the ranges of hills. The residence itself was found
at the foot of the range of hills through which the Kafue finds
its passage.
STAG BEETLr,




CHAPTER X.
BORDER TRIBES.
The Kafue —Longing for Peace-Negro Worship-Foreign Goods —Barbisa
Traders-Five Ranges-Geological Features-Health of Livingstone-The
Zambesi again-Elephant-lIunting-Suffering from Heat-The Native Peculiarities-Absence of Deformed Persons-Continued Friendliness-Adventure
with an Elephant-Native Suspicions-Doubtful Conduct-Peace and Kindness-Portuguese Enterprise-Situation of Zumbo-Abundance of GameWVonderful Liberality-Dancing for Corn-Livingstone's Example-Providence
in the Council-Mpende's Favor-Slave Trade Abhorred-Across the Zambesi
-Sand River-Game Laws-Elevated Huts-Hyena Scourge-Overflow of the
Zambesi-Appreciation of Gifts.
SEMALEMBULE'S village  guards the narrow  gorge through
which the Kafuie finds its escape from the hills into the Zambesi, in lat. 15~ 48' 19" S., long. 28~ 22' E. He was not
behind any head man in the kindness and readiness of his hospitality.  His present of meal a7nd groundnuts was made in the
best style of their country, by first expressing his regret that his
visitors must sleep hungry, and then surprising them with his
generosity. Like all his neighbors he received the words of
peace with great delight.  The life of anxiety and constant turmoil almost inseparable from the existence of so many little
sovereignties all crowded together, is painfully wearying; and
rest, peace is the magic word which thrills through all the
tribes with unequalled power. They all long to " live in peace."
The beautiful, fertile and healthful hills and valleys of the
Kafue particularly have been contested ground, and this industrious and quiet populace are eager to be left in the enjoyment
of their fields and sports.  These people do not need to be told
of the existence of the Deity, but they catch at his gospel, which
promises a time of universal peace on earth, with singular
pleasure.  It is the same weariness of anxiety, which turns the
heart of man universally toward the throne of God, who reveals
in Christ his providence and grace.  The religion of Jesus,
238




TENDENCY TO WORSHIP.                 239
establishing the soul in quietness, and filling the world with
love, answers the inaudible prayer of human misery, which
ascends to God from every land, in every dialect, expressed in
every custom and condition. How beautiful and touching is
the ready yielding of heathen prejudice to this heavenly promise! How encouraging it is to see the eye of ignorance and
barbarity sparkling with the hope of Christ's glorious reign,
even before they know the Sovereign!
The characteristic negro tendency to worship distinguishes
the tribes of the Kafuie, and the national faith in charms enters
into all they do. The universal fear of the white man which
distinguishes the tribes remote from European settlements prevailed here also; and although it is the sunny slope of the
range constituting the eastern wall of the continent, not even
the half-caste had ever penetrated so far. The white man's
goods, though, had already found their way, and the followers
of Livingstone began to find a market for their ornaments and
beads in cotton cloth.
The Babisa traders take the place of the lMambari, who enter
the interior from the western coast, and barter various articles
for ivory and slaves. Villages almost innumerable, according
to African custom, are hid away among the hills, whose shadows offer the security of seclusion to the trembling people. The
general conformation and nature of the rocks is strikingly like
the western slope; but the wonderful valley of the Quango is
wanting, although its absence is fully atoned for by the splendid
ranges of cloud-capped mountains, which, in the eyes of the followers of Livingstone, accustomed to no greater altitudes than
their marvellous ant-hills, seemed like the pillars of the heavens.
There are five of these ranges quite distinct and parallel, and
between them beautiful hills covered with trees. "On the tops
of these," says Livingstone, "' we have beautiful white quartz
rocks, and some have a capping of dolomite. On the west of
the second range we have great masses 6f kyanite or disthene,
and on the flanks of the third and fourth a great deal of specular
iron ore which is magnetic, and rounded pieces of black iron
ore, also strongly magnetic, and containing a very large percentage of the metal. The sides of these ranges are generally
very precipitous, and there are rivulets between which are not




240                 EASTERN RANGES.
perennial. Many of the hills have been raised by granite, exactly like that of the Kalomo. Dikes of this granite may be
seen thrusting up immense masses of mica schist and quartz or
sandstone schist, and making the strata fold over them on each
side, as clothes hung upon a line.
" When we came to the top of the outer range of the hills we
had a glorious view. At a short distance below us we saw the
Ktafue, wending away over a forest-clad plain to the confluence,
and on the othei' side of the Zambesi, beyond that, lay a long
range of dark hills. A line of fleecy clouds appeared lying
along the course of that river at their base. The plain below
us, at the left of the Kafue, had more large game on it than
anywhere else I had seen in Africa. Hundreds of buffaloes
and zebras grazed on the open spaces, and there stood lordly
elephants feeding majestically."
But this charming scenery had to be paid for by serious toiling and climbing, which called for the forfeit of several of the
oxen, one of which was a special beauty which Sekeletu had
been anxious to have displayed at the settlement of the white
people, as it was ornamented after the most approved fashion of
the Makololo, " with more than thirty pieces of its own skin
detached and hanging down."
The animals abounding in these hills, however, rendered the
party almost independent of oxen, as, being entirely unfamiliar
with guns, they moved about in easy range of the balls.
The health of Dr. Livingstone had continued singularly
good, owing probably as much to his greater care of himself as
to the greater healthfulness of the localities through which he
had passed, and he was in the spirit to enjoy all that occurred
or was to be seen. He was greatly encouraged in his desire to
establish a station, where a mission might grow up which would
act as a centre of civilization. There could be nothing to discourage such an enterprise in this magnificent region.
Having declined the smoother route to the northeast for the
banks of the Zambesi, Livingstone was anxious now to regain
that stream  and guided his party a little southward.  The
country became more and more thickly planted with broadleaved bushes as they approached the river, and they needed
repeatedly to shout to the elephants to stand out of their path.




THE ZAMBESI AGAIN.                 241
The huge dwellers in these thickets seemed absolutely indifferent to man. A herd of buffalo came up and so interfered with
their progress by their curiosity, that one of them had to be shot
to get them  out of the way, and a female elephant dashed
through the midst of the men, followed by three calves. The
waterfowl in great numbers hung leisurely on the air just over
them.  The abundance of animal life was beyond anything
ever seen even in Africa. The Zambesi itself, when it appeared
again, was wider and deeper and more rapid than they had left
it in the neighborhood of the falls, and unlike it had been seen
as the Leearnbye, in the great valley it was deeply discolored
by the washing down of the soil from the surrounding country.
It is worthy of notice that no mention is made of the slightest
discoloration of the streams in Africa between the two great
ridges which divide the eastern and western coasts from the
interior. The first indications of the washings of soil in the
rivers, in the western journey, were observed in the Quango.
And now they are in the Zambesi east of the ridge.
Passing down the left bank of the river there were quite a
number of islands to attract the attention of the travellers.
These islands were clothed with verdure and seemed to possess
singular fertility. One of these river gems-the island of
Mengo-entertains, besides its human population, a herd of
buffaloes, which seem to find ample pasturage within its small
circumference, and dispute their claim quite valiantly with their
human neighbors when occasion requires. This herd might
easily swim to the shore if they desired to do so; their residence on the " little foot of soil" seems to be purely a matter of
choice.
About this point the river flows between the country of the
Batonga on the north and that of Banyai on the south side.
On both sides are ranges of hills, and the multitude of bufFaloes and elephants furnish unending supplies to the people.
"They erect stages on high trees overhanging the paths by
which the elephants come, and then use a large spear with a
handle nearly as thick as a man's wrist, and four or five feet
long. When the animal comes beneath they throw the spear,
and if it enters between the ribs above, as the blade is at least
twenty inches long by two broad, the motion of the handle, as




242              NATIVE PECULIARITIES.
it is aided by knocking against the trees, makes frightful gashes
within, and soon causes death. They kill them also by means
of a spear inserted in a beam of wood, which being suspended
on the branch of a tree by a cord attached to a latch fastened in
the path, and intended to be struck by the animal's foot, leads
to the fall of the beam, and, the spear being poisoned, causes
death in a few hours."
The paths along the bank were only such as had been made
by the wild animals; there were no roads. Besides the elephants and buffaloes, which we have mentioned, there were
herds of zebras, pallahs and water-bucks; great numbers of
wild pigs, koodoos and black antelopes.
The party began to feel the oppression of the sun only after
entering these lowlands, though there were rains every day and
considerable cloudiness.  The sun frequently came out with
" scorching intensity." The men had never suffered from the
heat while on the hills.
Livingstone considered it worthy of mention that in all his
journey across the continent he never met an albino, though
they were reported by the Portuguese to be quite numerous.
"The natives in this section present the same admixture of
color, ranging from very dark to light olive, which distinguished
those of Londo. They all have the thick lips and flat noses,
but instances of the ugly negro physiognomy are rarely to be
seen."  They have a singular fashion of marking themselves,
from the roots of'the hair on the forehead to the tip of the nose,
by little raised cicatrices about a quarter of an inch in length.
"The women here are in the habit of piercing the upper lip,
and gradually enlarging the orifice until they can insert a shell.
The lip then appears drawn out beyond the perpendicular of the
nose, and gives them a most ungainly aspect. Sekwebu remarked,'These women want to make their mouths like those
of ducks;' and, indeed, it does appear as if they had the idea
that female beauty of lip had been attained by the Ornithorhynchits paradoxus alone. This custom prevails throughout the
country of the Maravi, and no one could see it without confessing that fashion had never led women to a freak more mad."
There is a remarkable absence of"deformities. There is a
horror of everything which is out of the apparent order of na



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CONTINUED FRIENDLINESS.               245
ture in very many of the tribes. To this is probably attributable the fact that Livingstone found no albinos. They are so
disliked that it is not uncommon to put the infants to death.
Parents kill their own children who are so unfortunate as to
possess a white face. The general absence of deformed persons
is partly owing to their destruction in infancy, and partly to the
mode of life being a natural one, so far as ventilation and food
are concerned. They use but few unwholesome mixtures as
condiments, and, though their undress exposes them to the vicissitudes of the temperature, it does not harbor vomites.  It was
observed that when small-pox and measles visited the country
they were most severe on the half-castes whllo were clothed. In
several tribes, a child which is said to "tlola," transgress, is put
to death. "Tlolo," or transgression, is ascribed to several curious
cases. A child who cut the upper front teeth before the under
was always put to death among the Bakaa, and, I believe, also
among the Bakwains.  In some tribes, a case of twins renders
one of themn liable to death; and an ox which, while lying in
the pen, beats the ground with its tail, is treated in the same
way. It is thought to be calling death to visit the tribe. When
Livingstone was coming through Londa, his men carried a great
number of fowls, of a larger breed than any they had at home.
If one crowed before midnight it had been guilty of "tlolo,"
and was killed.  The men often carried them. sitting on their
guns, and if one began to crow in a forest the owner would give
it a beating, by way of teaching it not to be guilty of crowing
at unseasonable hours.
The friendliness of the tribes had continued so marked, that
Livingstone was cherishing the hope that he would find none
of the painful experiences which made the approach to the Angola borders the bitterest part of his former journey. It was,
therefore, as surprising as vexatious to find the town of Selole in
great excitement, and to be told that he and his party were regarded as enemies, and, to that, Selole had already sent a messenger to the Mburuma to raise that tribe against them. These
warlike preparations, however, had grown out of a misunderstanding of the nature of Livingstone's expedition and were easily
quelled by the true representations.  There had been an Italian
in the country, who entered making the best promises, but who,




246        ADVENTURE WITH AN ELEPHANT.
when the occasion allowed, fell upon the islands and took away
many of the people and large quantities of ivory. Selole had
associated Livingstone with that man, who having been killed
some time before, he was represented as having " risen from the
dead."
An adventure with an elephant, which occurred just after
parting with Selole, throws some light on the singular tenacity
with which that animal clings to life, and may serve the wouldbe-hunters a good turn. They had come in sight of a troop of
elephants; it is astonishing how numerous these troops are sometimes; Dr. Barth once counted over ninety, in a herd. The
men of Livingstone, on the occasion mentioned, set out to secure
some meat; as " they drew near," says the account, " the troop
began to run; one of them fell into a hole, and before he could
extricate himself an opportunity was afforded for all the men
to throw their spears. When he rose he was like a huge porcupine, for each of the seventy or eighty men had discharged more
than one spear at him. As they had no more, they sent for me
to finish him. In order to put him at once out of pain, I went
to within twenty yards, there being a bank between us which he
could not readily climb. I rested the gun on an ant-hill so as
to take steady aim; but, though I fired twelve two-ounce bullets,
all I had, into different parts, I could not kill him. As it was
becoming dark, I advised my men to let him stand, being sure
of findingt him dead in the morning; but, though we searched
all the next day, and went more than ten miles, we never saw
him again. I mention this to young men who may think that
they will be able to hunt elephants on foot by adopting the
Ceylon practice of killing them by one ball in the brain. I believe that in Africa the practice of standing before an elephant,
expecting to kill him with one shot, would be certain death to
the hunter; and I would add, for the information of those who
may think that because I met with a great abundance of game
here they also might find rare sport, that the tsetse exists all
along both banks of the Zambesi, and there can be no hunting
by means of horses. Hunting on foot in this climate is such excessively hard work, that I feel certain the keenest sportsman
would very soon turn away from it in disgust. I myself was
rather glad, when furnished with the excuse that I had no longer




SUSPICIOUS CONDUCT.                247
any balls, to hand over all the hunting to my men, who had no
more love for the sport than myself, as they never engaged in
it except when forced by hunger."
Though the explanation of Livingstone seemed to be received
as true, it did not inspire full confidence, as could be clearly
seen in the absence of Mburuma himself, and the care which his
people were at to keep always in large bodies and thoroughly
armed.
The greatest anxiety which Livingstone had was to pass these
people so quietly and peaceably that they would welcome him
should he return, as he expected to do. These people of Mbunruma were, however, manifestly so treacherous that the greatest
caution was needed to avoid a collision with them; and Dr.
Livingstone found that the experience he had gained was of
considerable value. They were clearly disposed to improve the
slightest chance to plunder or destroy the whole party. The
trying character of the situation may be seen in the account
which Dr. Livingstone himself gives; says he:
"Mburuma sent two men as guides to the Loangwa. These
men tried to bring us to a stand, at a distance of about six miles
from the village, by the notice,'Mburuma says you are to sleep
under that tree.' On declining to do this, we were told that we
must wait at a certain village for a supply of corn. As none
appeared in an hour, I proceeded on the march. It is not quite
certain that their intentions were hostile, but this seemed to disarrange their plans, and one of them was soon observed running
back to Mburuma.  They had first of all tried to separate our
party by volunteering the loan of a canoe to convey Sekwebu
and me, together with our luggage, by way of the river, and, as
it was pressed upon us, I thought that this was their design.
The next attempt was to detain us in the pass; but, betraying
no suspicion, we civilly declined to place ourselves in their power
in an unfavorable position. We afterward heard that a party
of Babisa traders, who came from the northeast, bringing English goods from Mozambique, had been plundered by this same
people."
Although the party reached the confluence of the Loangwa
without greater trouble than the manifestly wicked designs of
MIburuma's people, Livingstone felt by no means confident that




248           DANGER' AND DELIVERANCE.
they would pass in safety. He could only obtain the use of
two canoes for the purpose of crossing the stream, and it seemed
that the Mburuma would at last accomplish his object and get
the party divided. He confesses that he felt some turmoil of
spirit in the evening at the prospect of having all his efforts
for the welfare of this great region and its teeming population
knocked on the head by savages to-morrow, who might be said
to " know not what they do."  It seemed such a pity that the
important fact of the existence of the two healthy ridges which
he had discovered should not become known in Christendom,
for a confirmation would thereby have been given to the idea
that Africa is not open to the gospel. But he read that Jesus
said, " All power is given unto me in heaven and on earth; go
ye, therefore, and teach all nations..... and lo, I amn with
you aiwcay, even unto the end of the world."  He took this as his
word of honor, and then went out to take observations for latitude and longitude, which he estimated, from the ruins of a
stone church which he found just at the confluence of the Loangwa
with the Zambesi, and found to be: latitude, 15~ 37' 22/" S.,
longitude, 30~ 32' E.
When the morning came there were numbers of men armed,
who stood by while the goods and load after load of the men
were being sent across. Livingstone himself was left to the last
boat, but, concealing whatever fear he may have felt, he beguiled the time pleasantly exhibiting various articles to his supposed enemies as pleasantly as he could have done to his own
Makololo, and, finally, when his time came to enter the boat,
he " thanked them for their kindness," and, wishing them peace,
passed over unmolested, feeling in his heart exceedingly gratified to God for preserving him and preserving peace, which he
longed to bestow on Africa.
Tihe party were now entering the outskirts of Portuguese enterprise, extending from their colony on the east coast. The
same indications of a mistaken policy which were so abundant
in Angola were to be seen here also, and here, as there, they
have been rather the enemies than the helpers of the natives at
the junction of the Loangwa and Zambesi. The town of Zumbo
contains a number of ruins of stone houses. "They all faced
the river, and were high enough up the flanks of the hill Maz



RUINS OF ZUIBO.                  249
anzwe to command a pleasant view of the broad Zambesi.
These establishments had all been built on one plan-a house
on one side of a large court, surrounded by a wall; both houses
and walls had been built of soft gray sandstone cemented together with mud. The work had been performed by slaves
ignorant of building, for the stones were not often placed so as
to cover the seams below. IHence you frequently find the joinings forming one seam from the top to the bottom. Much mortar
or clay had been used to cover defects, and now trees of the fig
family grow upon the walls and clasp them with their roots.
When the clay is moistened, masses of the walls come down by
wholesale. Some of the rafters and beams had fallen in, but were
entire, and there were some trees in the middle of the houses as
large as a man's body. On the opposite or south bank of the
Zambesi we saw the remains of a wall on a height which was
probably a fort, and the church stood at a central point, formed
by the right bank of the Loangwa and the left of the Zambesi.
" The situation of Zumbo was admirably well chosen as a site
for commerce. Looking backward we see a mass of high, dark
mountains, covered with trees; behind us rises the fine high hill
Mazanzwe, which stretches away northward along the left bank
of the Loangwa; to the southeast lies an open country, with a
small round hill in the distance called Tofulo. The merchants,
as they sat beneath the verandahs in front of their houses, had
a magnificent view of the two rivers at their confluence; of their
church at the angle; and of all the gardens which they had on
both sides of the rivers."
But here, as in Angola, the churches have exerted but trifling
influence; the people have not been turned from their superstitions; and the poorly-paid officials having become merchants
from necessity, and allowed their necessity to become avarice,
trade nearly altogether in slaves and ivory. Livingstone soon
found that he had encountered the annoyance and danger of
passing through the midst of people who had been for two years
in war with the white settlers. Being on the north side of the
river and without means of crossing, he was forced to expose
himself on the savage side, while on the south side he would
have been under the authority of the Portuguese. He had,
however, no disposition to take sides in such a quarrel, and




250               DANCING FOR CORN.
moved along leisurely, although he was cautioned that Npende
had determined to allow no white manll to pass through his
territory.
The animal life along the river continued abundant, and
while passing along among the trees, not far from Zumbo, three
buffaloes, which had been passed without being observed, discovering their proximity, became alarmed and dashed through
the company furiously. The ox on which Livingstone was
mounted rushed off at a swift gallop, and when he succeeded
in turning him back he saw that one of his men had enjoyed a
very unexpected serial tour. A buffalo had passed so near him
that he had thrown down his burden and stabbed him in the
side. Thus assaulted the beast turned suddenly upon him and
carried him off on his horns, but though he was tossed quite a
distance there was no serious injury experienced.
It is pretty certain that there is no other country through
which a hundred and fourteen strong, hearty fellows could pass
everywhere entertained with such abundance. Sekwebu, the
principal man, had foretold the liberality of the tribes along the
Zambesi, he having known them many years before; all hands
agreed that he had told only the truth. The men took care for
themselves, and having had very little trouble by the way, they
were light-hearted and free; they generally conducted their
peaceable forays by going into the villages and commencing to
dance, and, when it is remembered that there were in the party
representatives of nearly all the tribes which are in any way
under the Makololo authority, it is easily conceivable that the
maidens of these villages were deeply interested by the complication of the capers that were cut. It was as natural as could
be for them to lavish all their corn on the gay and gallant
strangers. These gallant men were considerably in advance of
most of those whom they visited, and laughed among themselves about their success. They rejoiced in their well-fed appearance; "look," they would say, "though we have been so
long away from home not one of us has become lean."
The rich, beautiful, fresh-looking, healthy country contrasted
most charmingly with the sultry, parched, drooping, half-alive
region in the south. The almost daily showers imparted a delightful freshness to all things. It was hardly possible for Dr.




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SURPRISED BY BUFFALOES (page 198 ).








A FIGHT AVERTED.                  253
Livingstone to give the anxiety which might have been natural
enough to the probable difficulties which he was to confront
when he should reach Mpende's village. He did, however, use
forethought enough to propitiate such of his prominent subjects
as had villages on their path, trusting that they would be disposed to exert some favorable influence, or, if no better, at least
might circulate the true nature of his errand in advance of him.
But when, on the 23d of January, the sun arose on them surrounded by a large party of Mpende's people, uttering their
strange cries and waving their charms, and kindling their mystic
fire, they were neither surprised nor frightened. But though
Livingstone had no fear that his men, who were rejoicing in the
prospect of a fight, would fail to hold the day against the assailants, he preferred to stand looking to the Ruler of hearts,
and praying to be spared the necessity of self-defence. He was
a noble example of a man.4'standing ready, under all circumstances, to crucify his fondestfaffection and strongest passion for
the accomplishment of an elevated object. His men, though,
being trained to marauding and suffering in their wardrobes
the effects of a long tramp, looked on the situation as quite a
promising affair; a "good hit" by which they trusted to dress
up before entering the homes of the white people. Following
the custom of Sebituane, who had trained his braves, Livingstone
had an ox slaughtered, that they might whet their courage for
a fight on a good meal of flesh. But while he was waiting God
was working, and Livingstone soon saw the results of his providence. In. the midst of his warlike preparations one of the
men who had talked with Livingstone by the way entered the
council of Mpende with information which changed the mind
of that chief. He was in war with the Portuguese, and thought
of Livingstone as one of his enemies; but when he heard it intimated that the stranger belonged to "the tribe who love the
black man " (they designate the English thus), he was as kind
as he had been unfriendly, and expressed his regret that he had
been misinformed and so led to annoy "the man vwho had a
heart for him." When Dr. Livingstone knew the favorable decision of the council, he sent Sekwebu to speak about the purchase of a canoe, giving as one of his reasons that one of the
men being sick he desired to get a canoe in which to carry him




254                " THINGS, NOT MIEN."
and so relieve the others of the burden of carrying him. Before
Sekwebu could finish, Mpende remarked, "That white man is
truly one of our friends. See how he lets me know his afflictions!"  Sekwebu adroitly took advantage of this turn in the
conversation, and said, "Ah! if yofu only knew hilm as well as
we do who have lived with him, you would understand that he
highly values your friendship and that of Mburuma, and, as he
is a stranger, he trusts in you to direct him."  He replied,
"Well, he ought to cross to the other side of the river, for this
bank is hilly and rough, and the way to Tete is longer on this
than on the opposite bank."  " But who will take us across, if
you do not? " " Truly! " replied Mpende; " I only wish you
had come sooner to tell me about him; but he shall cross."
The Zambesi at this point was twelve hundred yards wide,
but the passage was made safely, and Livingstone congratulated
himself on being on the side less exposed to petty annoyances,
and offering at the same time an easier path to the sea.
It was gratifying to Livingstone to find all the people occupying the country cursed by the slave trade of the Portuguese at
least conscious of its meanness; they excuse themselves quite
after the manner of more enlightened sinners for their engaging
in barter which requires the giving of human beings into bondage
by putting greater guilt on the tempter. This is the old dodge,
which was not quite equal to the emergency of our too yielding
mother in Eden, and it cannot deliver even the heathen from
our condemnation; yet certainly it can hardly be a pleasing reflection to those who would take the responsibility of encouraging such a trade that their victims, too weak to resist them, are
good enough to curse them, and too degraded to be pitied by
them, are yet noble enough to despise them. These people speak
of the English as nen, but of the slave-traders they say, "they
are not men, they are only things."  The idea is quite prevalent
that those who have purchased slaves of them have done them
an injury. "All the slaves of Nyungwe," said one, " are our
children; the Bozunga (Portuguese) have built the town at our
expense."
The presence of traders enabled Livingstone to replenish the
wardrobes of his men, which they had been denied attending to
for themselves in the village of M[pende, and they were happier.




SAND RTVERS.                    255
In latitude 15~ 38' 34" south, longitude 31~ 1' east, on the
1st of February, they crossed the Zingesi, one of the sand-rivulets which constitute quite a feature of the country. It was in
flood at that time and flowed along quite waist-deep. These
sand-rivers are the agencies which have probably had much to
do in the changes which are manifestly occurring in the face of
the country continually.  In trying to ford this stream  Dr.
Livingstone felt thousands of particles of coarse sand beating
against his legs. These rivers remove vast quantities of disintegrated rock before it has time enough to form soil, and one
diving below the surface may hear thousands of tiny stones
knocking against each other continually. And we can readily
believe that " this attrition, carried on for hundreds of miles in
different rivers, must have an effect greater than if all the
pestles and mortars and mills of the world were grinding and
wearing away the rocks."
The general order was somewhat interrupted by the "game
laws " which protected the animal kingdom. The lands of each
chief are very well defined, the boundaries being usually marked
by rivulets, great numbers of which flow into the Zambesi from
both banks, and if an elephant is wounded on one man's land
and dies on that of another, the under half of the carcass is
claimed by the lord of the soil; and so stringent is the law, that
the hunter cannot begin at once to cut up his own elephant, but
must send notice to the lord of the soil on which it lies, and
wait until that personage sends one authorized to see a fair
partition made. If the hunter should begin to cut up before
the agent of the landowner arrives, he is liable to lose both the
tusks and all the flesh. The hind leg of a buffalo must also be
given to the man on whose land the animal was grazing, and
a still larger quantity of the eland, which here and everywhere
else in the country is esteemed right royal food.
If these laws had been met here for the first time, Livingstone would probably have considered them a sort of tax on the
traveller for passing through another's country, but they are
found far in the south. In the interior too there are game laws,
though not exactly such as these. The man who first wounds
an animal, though he has inflicted but a mere scratch, is considered the killer of it; the second is entitled to a hind quarter,
13




256               THE SPOTTED HYENA.
and the third to a fore-leg. The chiefs are generally entitled to
a share as tribute; in some parts it is the breast, in others the
whole of the ribs and one fore-leg. Dr. Livingstone generally
respected this law, although exceptions are sometimes made when
animals are killed by guns. The knowledge that he who succeeds in reaching the wounded beast first is entitled to a share
stimulates the whole party to greater exertions in despatching it.
Among his own followers these laws were in some force. One
of the men having a knowledge of elephant medicine generally
went boldly in advance of the others, and on his decision the
choice depended; and he was recognized as having a right to
certain parts of the elephant as the tribute to his office.
The huts in this section they found erected on high stages in
the midst of gardens. The spotted hyena is the scourge of the
country, and his cowardly but savage prowling makes it necessary to sleep out of his reach. The precaution of elevated
resting-places serves well against the lions and elephants, who
are not scrupulous about disturbing the sweetest repose by
their dreadful intrusions. The hyena particularly is dreaded,
because he frequently approaches persons lying asleep and
makes horrid work with their features. Men are frequently
killed and children carried away; for though the voice of a
human being fills him with terror, he never unfastens his teeth
when once he has a taste of blood if it is possible to drag his
victim away. These animals prowl about under cover of the
darkness, uttering the most horrid yells. Their filthy gluttony
finds a choice repast in the worst forms of putridity. The
strength of its jaws is only equalled by its wonderful power of
digestion. It will easily crush in its teeth the largest bones of
an ox, and digest them without the slightest inconvenience.
But the people had plenty, and though under the necessity of
building their nests in the air like the birds, were yet quite
comfortable and light-hearted.  Their gardens are nearly all of
them reclaimed from the forests, which abound in gigantic
trees. It is probably the peculiarly ravenous habits of their
sneaking enemy which explain the fact that many of these
large trees contain the bodies of their dead. Among the trees
of importance the tamarind is quite conspicuous, on account of
the large numbers of them and its valuable fruit. There is an



LIVINGSTONE'S GENEROSITY.             257
other, not unlike it, called the motondo, the wood of which is
very highly valued by the Portuguese for building boats.
The Zambesi all along east of the ridge is subject to frequent
freshets, occasioned by the rains, which were found to be of
almost daily occurrence. Dr. Livingstone suggests that it is
probably owing to these freshets that the Portuguese on the
coast have failed to discover the periodical overflow of the river,
which is discoverable in the great interior valley, where it is
not affected by so many tributaries, and where the dry and wet
seasons are more marked. And it was his opinion that if the
Zambesi was continued southward to the Cape, being allowed to
flow through the flat country of the desert, it would be seen to
have the same character as the Nile in Egypt.
The generosity of the people continued to lighten the care of
travelling. The villagers were quite generous of supplies, and
whatever disposition to ask or demand gifts they manifested
was clearly attributable to the association with the despicable
class of white men who have been among them as traders: the
contemptible gifts which these men frequently make, such as a
few buttons, or some other equally worthless object, gives rise
to the necessity, on the part of the natives, for making demands
for articles of some value, which may be in some sort an equivalent for their attentions. The custom of Dr. Livingstone, of
making presents of real value, as far as lay in his power, went
far toward elevating him in the confidence of the people, and
contributed no little to the honor of the English name in their
estimation. Those who pursue another course are greatly mistaken in counting on the ignorance of the natives to excuse
them. They are aware of the worthlessness of the articles, and
receive them with a degree of shame, and ladies may be seen to
hand it quickly to the attendants, and, when they retire, laugh
until the tears stand in their eyes, saying to those about them,
"Is that a white man? then there are niggards among them
too. Some of them are born without hearts!"  One white
trader, having presented an old gun to a chief, became a standing joke in the tribe: "' The white man who made a present of a
gun that was new when his grandfather was sucking his greatgrandmother."




CHAPTER XI.
CHICOVA TO TETE.
District of Chicova-Agriculture —Game Laws-Banyai Prayers —Makololo
Faith —Insect Life-Birds-Their Songs —Squirrel —Geological FeaturesGrapes-Plums-Animal Life-Superstition about Lions —The Korwe-A
Model Husband-Helpful Facts —Government of the Banyai —Selecting
Chiefs —Monina's Opposition-Fight Threatened —Sudden DerangementConscience at Work-" A Guilt "-An Ordeal-Woman's Rights-The Son-inLaw-Dignity of Woman-Good Husbands, Bad Hunters-The RhinocerosAndersson's Adventure-Terrible Encounter-Rhinoceros Among BeastsVillages Avoided-Nearing Tete-Livingstone Emaciated-Eight Miles Only
-A  Retrospect-A Prospect-Noble Picture-Arrival of Messengers-Civilized Breakfast-Reception at Tete-The Source of the Zambesi UnknownThe Value of the Discovery.
ALTHOUGH  it was most desirable to follow  the river as
closely as possible, the continued floods, together with the hostile character of some of the petty chiefs who would be on the
line of that route, determined Dr. Livingstone on a more southern path across the district of Chicova. This prevented his
making any observations of the Zambesi between the hills west
of the Chicova flats and the town of Tete.  The section of
country through which he passed was not wanting in beauty,
and there were some things of special interest, on account of
which he was rather gratified by the change of route. The
district had been reported to contain silver mines, and the
curiosity of one so long buried in the wilds was awake for such
evidences of European enterprise. His own investigations did
not, however, confirm the report; the natives knew nothing of
silver.  But the finding of coal and the news of gold-washings
relieved the disappointment as to silver.
There were no herds to remind him  of the more inland
friends, for the tsetse dwells along the little streams and rivulets which thread the country; the inhabitants are therefore
devoted to agricultural pursuits, perhaps as much from necessity as from preference. They are a good-looking, manly set,
258




GAME LAWS.                     259
generous enough to assist and selfish enough to hinder a warmhearted traveller, as Livingstone could testify out of his own
experience.
Among the troublesome features of their government, to a
party dependent largely on what they might chance to kill,
were their game laws, which differed little from those mentioned
as existing in other parts of the continent. The operation of
these laws may be illustrated by the fact that, the followers of
Livingstone having killed an elephant, they dared not go so far
as to cut it up until a messenger had been sent to the man who
had charge of the game of the district. The delay occasioned
by this formality rendered the meat almost useless before the
hungry party could get at it. If they had begun cutting it up
without this permission they would have lost the whole. On
this occasion certain Banyai hunters chanced to be present, and
exhibited a little of their national faith.  One of them, witnessing the fight of the strangers with the beast, took out his
snuff-box and emptied the contents at the root of a tree as an
offering to the spirits for success; and when the animal fell,
said to Dr. Livingstone, " I see you are travelling with people
who don't know how to pray; I therefore offered the only thing
I had in their behalf and the elephant soon fell." They worship departed spirits, and in their reverence and devotion are
an example to some whose confidence and affection are claimed
by a higher and worthier Being.  Their modest respect for
their Barimo contrasted strikingly with the confident and careless recognition of the Supreme Giver of All by the men from
the interior, who said, " God gave it to us."  He said to the old
beast, "Go up there; men are come who will kill you."
The inhabitants of this country call themselves Bambari, but
they are of the nation whose general name is Banyai. The few
towns and villages to which Livingstone came treated him and
his men kindly. They are surrounded by gardens which have
been reclaimed from the foriests and are exceedingly fertile.
The abundance of insect life was truly wonderful; almost every
plant has its peculiar insect.  The rankest poisons, as the
kongwhane and euphorbia, are soon devoured. The former has
a scarlet insect. Even the fiery birdseye pepper, which will
keep off many others from its own seed, is itself devoured by a




260                 BIRDS OF AFRICA.
maggot. There were seen also great numbers of centipedes with
light reddish bodies and blue legs, and great myriapedes are
seen crawling everywhere. Even in the deepest and quietest
parts of the forest there is the distinct hum of insect joy. The
tiny honey guides were at hand volunteering their services, but
there were no artificial hives as in Londa, or long lines of
honey bearers. The wax had not become an article of value as
on the wvest coast. The little toilers store their treasure in the
cavities of trees.
The feathered tribes seemed determined to vindicate their
characters, and contradict the assertion that " birds of the tropics
are wanting in the power of song; " but to Livingstone, though
they sang with power, they seemed "singing in a foreign
tongue."  "One," he says, " brought the chaffinch to my mind,
another the robin; two have notes not unlike those of the
thrush, while some resemble the lark."  The best songs, however, of them  all were marked by certain "strange, abrupt
notes " unlike anything he had heard before. One utters deliberately, "Peek, pak, pok;" another has a single note like a
stroke on a violin string. Then there is the loud cry of francolins, the "pumpuru, pumpuru" of the turtle-doves, and the
screaming notes of the mokwa. The birds of Africa, like its
people, are unknown and therefore despised. %When they have
been sung by the poets people will praise their songs, and the
poets will sing of them when they have heard the songs. Like
our birds, these choristers of the unknown land love the early
morning and the evening with its balmy breath, or they are
filled with joy when, on a sultry day, a sudden shower has refreshed all nature, and great, cool drops hang like pearls on
every bough or leaf, glistening in the rays of the sun, which
glance along the clouds with broken power. It is a pleasing
thought that God has provided the darkest wildernesses of earth
with melodies in praise of his goodness, and it may be that we
should consider the presence of God's choir as a prophecy of his
coming. It may be that the voice of song which wraps the
world like praise is to be the canopy of God's dominion. It
may be that the birds of Africa, songful and free, hint of the
time when all her sable sons may shout in the wonderful emancipation which shall attend the reign of Christ Jesus the Lord.




GEOLOGICAL FEATURES.                 261
The ever-provident squirrel was observed arranging his nest
and storing his supplies in the cavities of the trees; more, however, against the long hot seasons than against the winter, as
with us. There were great numbers of silicified trees lying
about over the ground; in one place there was discovered a
piece of palm transformed into oxide of iron, with the pores
filled with pure silica.  These fossil trees lie upon soft gray
sandstone, containing banks of shingle, which forms the underlying rock of the country.  The way led across the hills Vungue or M/vungwe, which were found to be composed of various
eruptive rocks; at one part we have breccia of altered marl or
slate in quartz, and various amygdaloids.  The different forms
which silica was found to assume were truly remarkable.  It
appeared in claystone porphyry here, in minute round globules,
no larger than turnip-seed, dotted thickly over the matrix; or
crystallized round the walls of cavities, once filled with air or
other elastic fluid; or it may appear in similar cavities as tufts
of yellow asbestos, or as red, yellow, or green crystals, or in
laminme so arranged as to appear like fossil wood. Vungue
forms the watershed between those sand rivulets which run to
the northeast, and others which flow southward, as the Kapopo,
Ue, and Due, which run into the Luia.
The ground in the neighborhood of the IKapopo and the Ue
was covered with rounded shingle, which, being hidden by the
grass, greatly aggravated the miseries of the pedestrian march.
The difficulty was increased, too, by the network of vines which
hedged the paths on every side and spread almost impassable
snares across it.  There were among these vines, however, great
numbers bearing wild grapes, some of which were so delicate
that they resembled greatly the cultivated varieties; these are
eagerly appropriated by the natives, and the Portuguese have
found out the value of some of the varieties for making vinegar.
Indeed, the invitation seems to be extended quite encouragingly
to those interested in grape culture to think of Africa. Another
species of fiuit which was found to be really "dlelicious" is
known as the mokoronga.  Its abundance does not diminish its
popularity.  The natives speak of it as "all fat," which they
mean shall convey the impression of excellence. Though these
plums are but little larger than a cherry they are greatly relished




262           THE KORWE AND HER NEST.
by the elephant, and they may be seen standing picking them
off patiently by the hour.
The bow and arrow have been ineffectual weapons against
the multitudes of animals which make their home in this country. Buffaloes and antelopes were found in abundance; lions
and hyenas also are remarkably numerous. Possibly the superstition of the people has something to do with the numbers and
audacity of the former, for the people, believing that the souls
of their chiefs enter into them, never attempt to kill them; they
even believe that a chief may metamorphose himself into a lion,
kill any one he chooses, and then return to the human form;
therefore, when they see one, they commence clapping their
hands, which is the usual mode of salutation here. The consequence is, that lions and hyenas are so abundant that little huts
are seen made in the trees, indicating the places where some of
the inhabitants have slept when benighted in the fields.
The courage or indifference with which Livingstone's men
wandered about in search of honey and birds' nests quite astonished the natives. In these forays it was quite common for
them to find the nests of the korwe. This is a very remarkable
bird whose nests are found in the cavities of the mopane trees.
When the female enters her nest, she submits to a real confinement.  The male plasters up the entrance, leaving only a
narrow slit by which to feed his mate, and which exactly suits
the form of his beak. The female makes a nest of her own
feathers, lays her eggs, hatches them, and remains with the
young till they are fully fledged. During all this time, which
is stated to be two or three months, the male continues to feed
her and the young family. The prisoner generally becomes
quite fat, and is esteemed a very dainty morsel by the natives,
while the poor slave of a husband gets so lean that, on the sud(len lowering of the temperature which sometimes happens after
a fall of rain, he is benumbed, falls down, and dies.  The
korwe generally leads her young forth about the time when corn
is ripe, and they are fully clothed and fledged for their first
appearance on the stage of life. The devotion which the parent
birds manifest for each other is very beautiful; but when a disconsolate husband is found feeding another wife at the same
nest from which his former partner was taken by voracious men




AFRICAN PROPER NAMES.                 263
only four or five weeks before, his love becomes strongly like a
sarcastic imitation of his human enemies, who are hardly more
permanently disconsolate.
The party came to Monina's village (close to the sand-river
Tangwe, latitude 16~ 13' 38" south, longitude 32~ 32' east).
This man was very popular among the tribes on account of his
liberality.  Boroma, Nyampungo, Monina, Jira, Katolosa
(Monomotapa), and Susa, all acknowledge the supremacy of one
called Nyatewe, who is reported to decide all disputes respecting
land. This confederation is exactly similar to what we observed
in Londa and other parts of Africa. IKatolosa is " the Emperor
Monomotapa " of history, but he is a chief of no great power,
and acknowledges the supremacy of Nyatewe. The Portuguese
formerly honored Monomotapa with a guard to fire off numbers
of gulls on the occasion of any funeral, and he was also partially
subsidized. The only evidence of greatness possessed by his
successor is his having about a hundred wives. When he dies
a disputed succession and much fighting are expected. In reference to the term  Monomotapa, it is to be remembered that
Mono, Moene, Mona, Mana, or Morena, mean simply chief, and
considerable confusion has arisen from naming different people
by making a plural of the chief's name. The names Monomoizes, spelled also Monemuiges and Monomuizes, and Monomotapistas, when applied to these tribes, are exactly the same as
if we should call the Scotch the Lord Douglases. Motape
was the chief of the Bambiri, a tribe of the Banyai, and is now
represented in the person of Katolosa. He was probably a man
of greater energy than his successor, yet only an insignificant
chief. Monomoizes was formed from Moiza or Muiza, the singular of the word Babisa or Aiza, the proper name of a large
tribe to the north. In the transformation of this name the same
error has been committed as in the others; and mistakes have
occurred in many other names by inattention to the meaning,
and predilection for the letter r. The river Loangwa, for instance, has been termed Arroangoa, and the Luenya the Ruanha.
The Bazizulu, or Mashona, are spoken of as the Morururus.
The government of the Banyai is rather peculiar, being a
sort of feudal republicanism. The chief is elected, and they
choose the son of the deceased chief's sister in preference to his




264             THE CHOICE OF A CHIEF.
own offspring. When dissatisfied with one candidate, they
even go to a distant tribe for a successor, who is usually of the
family of the late chief, a brother, or a sister's son, but never
his own son or daughter. When first spoken to on the subject,
he answers as if he thought himself unequal to the task and unworthy of the honor; but, having accepted it, all the wives,
goods, and children of his predecessor belong to him, and he
takes care to keep them in a dependent position. WThen any one
of them becomes tired of this state of vassalage and sets up his
own village, it is not unusual for the elected chief to send a
number of the young men, who congregate about himself to
visit him. If he does not receive them with the usual amount
of clapping of hands and humility, they, in obedience to orders,
at once burn his village. The children of the chief have fewer
privileges than common free men. They may not be sold, but,
rather than choose any one of them for a chief at any future
time, the free men would prefer to elect one of themselves, who
bore only a very distant relationship to the family. These free
men are a distinct class who can never be sold; and under them
there is a class of slaves whose appearance as well as position is
very degraded.  Monina had a great number of young men
about him from twelve to fifteen years of age. These were all
sons of free men, and bands of young men like them in the
different districts leave their parents about the age of puberty,
and live with such men as Monina for the sake of instruction.
When asked the nature of the instruction, one is told " Bonyai,"
which may be understood as indicating manhood, for it sounds
as if we should say, "to teach an American Americanism," or
" an Englishman to be English."  While here they are kept in
subjection to rather stringent regulations. They must salute
carefully by clapping their hands on approaching a superior, and
when any cooked food is brought the young men may not approach the dish, but an elder divides a portion to each. They
remain unmarried until a fresh set of youths is ready to occupy
their place under the same instruction. The parents send servants with their sons to cultivate gardens to supply them with
food, and also tusks to AMonina to purchase clothing for them.
When the lads return to the village of their parents, a case is
submitted to them for adjudication, and if they speak well on
the point the parents are highly gratified.




A NIGHT'S EXPERIENCE.               265
Monina did not seem as generously inclined as Nyampungo
had been, and intimated at the first interview that he was dissatisfied with the excuses given for not presenting something
valuable. The demonstrations were decidedly indicative of an
attack. Livingstone had reason to believe, however, that the
chief was personally more inclined to favor him, and was urged
to these demonstrations by his counsellors, who had the hope of
frightening the stranger into some payment which they felt certain he was able to make. The war dance, though, left little
hope of anything but a fight, and Livingstone's party lay down
on their arms, watching silently, and only allowed themselves to
sleep when it was certain that a night assault was abandoned.
During that night of anxiety an unexpected sorrow fell on the
party. Monahin, who had commanded the Batoka of Mokwine,
arose in the night, and looking toward the smouldering fires
about which the people of Monina had been dancing, was heard
to say, "Listen, don't you hear what they are saying; they are
going to kill Monahin," and then turning about he walked away
into the forests and could not be found. This brings to notice
again the peculiar temporary derangement which is quite frequently met with in the tribes of Africa. It seems generally
to be the result of some uncommon strain on the mind. AMonahin was suspected by these Batoka whom he commanded as
being the murderer of Ml[okwine; they would say, " 1Mokwine is
reported to have been killed by the Makololo, but Monahin is
the individual who put forth his hand and slew him."  It is
worthy of note that while these people have no sort of compunctions about killing in battle, concerning one who kills a man of
any standing, in a foray undertaken on his own account, the
common people continue ever after to indulge in remarks, which
are brought to him in various ways, until the iteration on his
conscience produces insanity.
There was hardly the slightest hope of finding the poor fellow
in a country so infested with ravenous beasts, but Dr. Livingstone spent three whole days in the search before he could find
heart to go on. The affliction, too, seemed to affect the heart of
Monina; he aided in every way in his power; he seemed anxious
least he might be suspected of having stolen the missing man,
and assured Dr. Livingstone most positively, saying, " We never




266               THE WITCH-DOCT'OR.
catch or kidnap people here; it is not our custom; it is considered
a guilt among all the tribes."
As the party left Monina's village, a witch-doctor, who had
been sent for, arrived, and all Monina's wives went forth into
the fields that morning fasting. There they would be compelled
to drink an infusion of a plant named "goho," which is used
as an ordeal. This ceremony is called "muavi," and is performed in this way: When a man suspects that any of his wives
has bewitched him, he sends for the witch-doctor, and all the
wives go forth into the field, and remain fasting till that person
has made an infusion of the plant. They all drink it, each
one holding up her hand to heaven in attestation of her innocence. Those who vomit it are considered innocent, while those
whom it purges are pronounced guilty, and put to death by
burning. The innocent return to their homes, and slaughlter a
cock as a thank-offering to their guardian spirits. The practice
of ordeal is common among all the negro nations north of the
Zambesi. This summary procedure excited Dr. Livingstone's
surprise, for his intercourse with the natives here had led him
to believe that the women were held in so much estimation that
the men would not dare to get rid of them thus. But the explanation he received was this: The slightest imputation makes
them eagerly desire the test; they are conscious of being innocent, and have the fullest faith in the muavi detecting the guilty
alone; hence they go willingly, and even eagerly, to drink it.
The women are honored with peculiar deference by the tribes
in this section; they are appealed to by their husbands to decide
important and trivial questions; for example, at the town of
Nyakoba, there was a guide appointed to attend Livingstone;
he bargained that his services should be rewarded with a hoe;
the hoe was delivered to him in advance, and he went with delight to show it to his wife, but when he returned informed the
Doctor that his wife would not allow him to go. "Well," said
Livingstone, " bring back the hoe." " But I want it." " Then
go with us." "But my wife won't let me." And when Livingstone said to his men, " Did you ever hear such a fool?" they
replied, " Oh, that is the custom in these parts; the wives rule."
It may be comforting to sotme of the humbler lords of creation
to reflect on this incident, and it may encourage the strong



" WOIAN'S RIGHTS."                 267
minded, women who are clamorous for promotion to the dignity
of masters to know that their dark sisters are in hearty sympathy with them. It may be suggestive also to mention the
method by which this supremacy is maintained. And let it not
be imagined for a moment that they are so artless as to parade
their ambition in the matter, or that they are so unwise as to
assert an authority, which may be maintained by gentler means,
with force. There, as most commonly in civilized communities,
the power lies in the feminine charms, and in the joy or pain of
a smile bestowed or withholden. Sekwebu witnessed the scene
of the incident mentioned above, and heard the man say to his
wife, in the midst of their endearments, " Do you think that I
would ever leave you?" and then turning to himselfask, "Do you
think I would leave this pretty'woman? is she not pretty?"
Indeed the potency of beauty is no more confined to our boastful
society than is the song of the birds confined to our cultured
groves.
It is not only true that woman exerts a manifest influence
among the tribes of the Banyai, it is also true that the customs
of social life recognize her dignity very decidedly. Wives are
not obtained by purchase as in most parts of southern Africa.
The fortunate groom cannot assume any authority over his newfound bride; he must go to the home of her parents and live
there, and the mothers-in-law of Africa are not more careful for
the happiness of this class than are those of other nations; the
poor fellow has, therefore, sometimes at least, need of very patient
love, and if he has spirit enough to resist, he may go alone as he
came, or indemnify the family for the loss of his wife and children. The husband, though, does not seem to consider the deference which he pays his wife a hard service, but renders it with
manifest pride and pleasure. It is a pitifil excess of selfishness
and self-conceit which makes a man count it a degradation to
confess his respect for the judgment or pleasure of the woman
who commits her life to his keeping and consecrates her love
and labor to his happiness; and it is beautiful promise of loftiest
possibilities of refinement that, in the midst of so much ignorance
and depravity, there should be in Africa ever so little respect
for womlan.
But these gentle and obedient husbands, though they win our




268                 THE RHINOCEROS.
respect by the exhibition of milder and more amiable tempers,
are not the equals of the ruder tribes, in the sort of courage which
distinguishes men in the face of the ferocious beasts which command the forest paths and the deep jungles of Africa; they could
not begin to cope with the interior tribes in the more dangerous
sports which involve the slaying of the lion or the rhinoceros.
Indeed in all Africa there is no animal which presents a bolder
front than this latter. There are several species of the rhinoceros mentioned by different writers; they seem, however, easily
included in the two prominent classes distinguished by their
colors; the black is the more dangerous both on account of its
superior strength and a peculiarly morose disposition. An experienced hunter asserts that he would rather face fifty lions
than one of these animals in an exposed situation. The sight
of the rhinoceros is imperfect, and this alone filrnishes about the
only hope of escape which is open to a man who is singled out
for his rage. Of enormous bulk and amazing strength, aind
armed with a horn "sharp as a razor," he is an enemy to be
treated with most serious consideration.
Mr. Andersson, whose adventure with a lion has been mentioned, and a rather reckless hunter, came quite suddenly upon
one of these monsters which had been wounded, and thinking
to make her change her position so as to offer a better opening
for his aim, ventured to cast a stone at her. Instantly she rushed
upon him with dreadful fury, snorting horribly, and tearing the
ground with her feet, while her expanded nostrils seemed smoking with rage; he had no time to note the effect of his hasty shot
before he was dashed to the ground, and his gun, cap, powder
flask and ball pouch were spinning away through the air with
the violence of the blow. The tremendous momentum carried
the beast stumbling some distance beyond him, but before he
could fully regain his feet she had turned upon him and dashed
him to the ground a second time, tearing his thigh open with her
sharp horn, and trampled him  desperately in the dust. She
then seemed to lose him, and as he crawled away to the shelter
of a neighboring tree he saw her some distance off tearing the
bushes, as if in unappeasable rage.
Not only man, but the most ferocious beasts shrink from an
engagement with the rhinoceros; even the lordly elephant mani



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RHINOCEROS CHARGE.








TRIALS AND ENCOURAGEMENT.               271
fests unqualified fear il his presence. Sometimes two or more
of these terrible creatures are known to engage in awful combats
with each other; it is then a scene indeed for the gladiatorial
ring; the earth trembles under their tramp, and the horrible
snorting and puffing sends a thrill of terror through all the
beasts of the forest. The white species was quite extinct along
the eastern division of the Zambesi. It falls an easier victim
of the hunter, and the native arrows and strategy together would
be a serious hindrance to its increase, but since these have been
supplemented by the powder and ball of civilized warfare they
are fast disappearing, even in the more southern country where
they have been most numerous.
After leaving Monina it was important for the travellers to
avoid the villages, as the people nearer the Portuguese settlement exhibited the, natural enough, disposition to tax them,
while in fact they were poorly able to pay anything. Livingstone's heart was bounding with eager anticipation of a welcome
at Tete, which was only a few days' travel in advance of him.
-Ie had not suffered so seriously as on the journey to Loanda,
but he had endured many hardships. Much of the distance
from the falls had been performed on foot; for many days he
had walked altogether; he had become so thin that his men
could any of them pick him up like a child and carry him
across the streams; still he had not lost his spirit, nor had his
interest in the well-being of his followers and the condition of
the tribes along his route failed in the least. He lay down on
the evening of the 2d of March eight miles from Tete, and sent
forward the letters of introduction which had been given him
by the Portuguese authorities at Loanda to the commandant.
It was nearly two years since he parted with the generous
Englishman who alone supports the dignity of the name in the
western colony. During those two years he had traversed all
the intervening wilderness, with only the companionship of the
ignorant and superstitious and depraved savages, and he was
now dragging the line of his explorations to the eastern coast.
And though the town of Tete was several hundred miles from
the sea, he felt that his success would be complete when he
arrived there, because it was the border town of the Portuguese,
and he would from thence be in the care of white men and




272          THE TRAVELLER'S RETROSPECT.
friends. He was so fatigued that he could not sleep, and his
mind naturally wandered back overthe long and tedious journey, with its strange and wonderful scenery, its wild associates,
and its wealth of singular incidents. There were the lofty
pillars of Pungo Andongo towering grandly on the other border like the monuments of old forgotten Titanic heroes. There
was the wonderful valley of the Quango, a hundred miles wide,
with its walls a thousand feet high. Then came in freshly on
his mind the weariness and anxiety of sickness and detentions
and petty strifes. The western water-shed next absorbed his
thought; the floating along the Leeba and the Leeambye, and
the "welcome home" so cordially extended by the Makololo.
Then the months of loving labor in the word of Christ, and the
eager watching for the slightest evidences of good accomplished.
Sometimes he seemed to be wandering again in the strange
labyrinth of rivers which flow about through the remarkable
fissures of the great interior country so unnaturally. In the
midst of these the wild and grand and lovely falls of the Zambesi burst anew on his delighted vision. The splendid hills
and lofty ranges, with their beautiful valleys and teeming herds
and stories of war and wrong, succeed in turn. Then the gorge
of the Kafue. And the Zambesi again, a thousand yards wide.
Amid all these scenes, the dark, untaught, uncared-for human
inhabitants were seen dragging about the fetters of their superstitions; unconsciously, indeed, but wearily.  He seemed to
hear their childish laughter ringing out in the midst of wicked
sports, or their mournful cries of sorrow on account of the
shadow of death. It was no wonder; he had heard them so
often. The sigh for peace, for quiet, sweet rest: that was
clearer in his thoughts than all else. Then ardent hope was
busy establishing mission stations all kver the land, and his
prayer of faith would almost become thanksgiving as he imagined the redemption of Africa, and seemed to gaze on its lovely
valleys and mountain ranges, all clothed with the evidences of a
Christian civilization, and seemed to hear the songs of praise
floating out of the renewed heart of the continent so many ages
lost in darkness and sin; floating along the rivers, until the sea
was burdened with words of love and gratitude from Africa to
the world, and all its murmurings were changed to shouts of




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THE MIDNIGHT VISITORS.               275
praise. Oh, how fascinating and how praiseful is the retrospect
of years nobly spent in the service of Christ for the help of
man! There is nothing grander in human life than the deliberate consecration of intelligence and refinement to the real
service of the degraded and indifferent. We cannot find a
grander specimen of philanthropy than lies before us in the
lonely, weary, perilous but willing isolation of the devoted man
who was waiting in pain and hunger for the dawning of the
day, and loved the scenes of a life of pain and hunger which
crowded about him and spread a canopy of memory over him
for a tent.
The stars were on duty still, shining like the camp fires of
heaven's protecting army, and the heavy breathing of the dusky
company had been undisturbed. It was just two o'clock in the
morning when messengers arrived who had been sent forward
with welcome and a civilized breakfast from Tete.
No man could more fully appireciate such attentions than Dr.
Livingstone. He seemed unconscious of the weight of obligation which his life of self-sacrifice was bringing the world
under. He was only laboring in the love of men and zeal for
Christ, and he thought of no reward. No man was more sensible to the helpful influences of sympathy; his heart bounded at
the words of cheer which were brought him. The presence of
persons who could in any sort understand him and sympathize
with him was like the communication of new life; his fatigue
vanished, and he walked the remaining eight miles freshly and
joyfully. There is wonderful power in sympathy; loving words
are a medicine for the soul better than all things-the specific
for all the anxieties of the mind.
The reception at Tete was as cordial as could be. The commandant-Tito Augusto d'Aranjo Sicard-proved himself a
liberal and attentive host. The Portuguese authorities had
been informed by the friends of Dr. Livingstone in England of
his being on his way across the continent, and his expected
arrival in their midst; but as there had been a sort of Caffre
war going on for two years, they had lost all hope of his ever
reaching their settlements alive. Quite lately, though, Major
Sicard's expectations had been awakened by the arrival at Tete
of natives who spread the rumor that the "son of God was
14




276               RECEPTION AT TETE,
approaching, and that he was able to take the sun down and
put it under his arm!"  The major was convinced that the
story was founded on the approach of some explorer, whom, he
was convinced also, could be no other than the man who had
already accomplished the wonderful journey from  the Cape to
Loanda.
On the day of his arrival in Tete Dr. Livingstone was "visited by all the gentlemen of the village, both white and colored,
including the padre."  Not one of them had any idea of where
the source of the Zambesi lay. They sent for the best-travelled
natives, but not one of them knew the river, even as far as
IKansala rapids, which may be seen indicated on the map, not
more than thirty or forty miles above the confluence of the
Kafue, and but little more than half way to the "Victoria
Falls." One man, who had been a great traveller in the southwestern country, had heard of Livingstone's discovery of Lake
Ngami, but he was entirely ignorant that the great river flowing
by the town where he lived came from the interior of the continent. Livingstone had the reward of his self-sacrifice in the
certainty that he had not been idly employed, but that in those
years of wandering he had performed a service which centuries
to come would be still conferring its blessings on the world.
He had been able to correct the errors of philosophy and prejudice, and bring to waiting Christendom the assurance that in
Africa there was a field ready for the sower, and that this broad
river, about whose delta civilization had been standing in doubtful inefficiency for centuries, furnished the guiding cord to the
heart of the continent.




CHAPTER XII.
THE PORTUGUESE POSSESSIONS.
The Village of Tete-Inhabitants-Gold Washings-Slave Trade, Evil Effects of
-Decadence of Portuguese Power-Superstitions of Tete-English CalicoArticles of Export-Gold-Coal-Value of Gold Dust-Appearance of Country
-M-ethod of Cultivating the Soil —Agriculture Neglected-Hot SpringsPeople Favorable to Englishmen-Cause of Portuguese Failure-Leaves Tete
-Nyaude's Stockade-The Gorge of Lupata-Senna-The Landeens or Zulus
-Misery of Senna-Surrounding Country-The Shire-Kilimane-Livingstone's Object-His Theory of Mission Work-His Hopes for Africa-Arrival
of the " Frolic "-Disposition of Ivory-Parts with his Followers-SekwebuIn the Boats —On Board the Ship-Insanity and Death of Sekwebu-Arrival
at Mauritius-Dear Old England-Forbidden Scenes-Public Honors-The
Single Desire.
THE delight which Dr. Livingstone experienced in being
once more in communication with people who could in some
sort appreciate him was fully justified by the persevering kindness of Major Sicard.  There was no attention withholden
which could contribute to the comfort and enjoyment of the
great explorer who had traversed the whole breadth of the continent.
It was the unhealthy season at Kilimane, and the generous
host insisted on detaining his guest at least a month, until he
might hope to go down to the coast safely; and having secured
employment for his followers, he claimed Dr. Livingstone for
his personal charge. The village itself possessed no special
charms; it stands on a succession of low sandstone ridges on the
right bank of the Zambesi, which is here nearly a thousand
yards wide (960 yards). Shallow ravines, running parallel with
the river, form the streets, the houses being built on the ridges.
The whole surface of the streets, except narrow footpaths, were
overrun with self-sown indigo, and tons of it might have been
collected.  In  fact, indigo, senna and stramonium, with a
species of cassia, form the weeds of the place, which are annually
hoed off and burned. A wall of stone and mud surrounds the
277




278             AGRICULTURE AND GOLD.
village, and the native population live in huts outside. The
fort and the church, near the river, are the strongholds; the
natives having a salutary dread of the guns of the one, and a
superstitious fear of the unlnown power oif Yae ot'e. d TYiz
number of white inhabitants is small, and rather select, many of
them having been considerately sent out of Portugal "for their
country's good."  The military element preponderates in
society; the convict and "incorrigible" class of soldiers, receiving very little pay, depend in great measure on the produce of
the gardens of their black wives; the moral condition of the resulting population may be imagined. Even the officers seldom
receive their pay from government; but, being of an enterprising
spirit, they contrive to support themselves by marrying the
daughters or widows of wealthy merchants, and trade in ivory
by means of the slaves of whom they thus become the masters.
In former times, considerable quantities of grain, as wheat,
millet and maize, were exported; also coffee, sugar, oil, and
indigo, besides gold dust and ivory. The cultivation of grain
was carried on by means of slaves, of whom the Portuguese
possessed a large number. The gold dust was procured by
washing at various points on the north, south and west of Tete.
A merchant took all his slaves with him to the washings, carrying as much calico and other goods as he could muster. On
arriving at the washing place, he made a present to the chief of
the value of about a pound sterling. The slaves were then
divided into parties, each headed by a confidential servant, who
not only had the supervision of his squad while the washing
went on, but bought dust from the inhabitants, and made a
weekly return to his master. When several masters united at
one spot, it was called a "Bara," and they then erected a temporary church, in which a priest from one of the missions performed mass. Both chiefs and people were favorable to these
visits, because the traders purchased grain for the sustenance of
the slaves with the goods they had brought. They continued
at this labor until the whole of the goods were expended, and
by this means about one hundred and thirty pounds of gold were
annually produced. Probably more than this was actually
olbtained, but, as it was an article easily secreted, this alone was
submitted to the authorities for taxation. At present the whole




EFFECTS OF SLAVE TRADE.               279
amount of gold obtained annually by the Portuguese is from
eight to ten pounds only.  When the slave trade began, it
seemed to many of the merchants a more speedy mode of becoming rich to sell off the slaves than to pursue the slow mode of
gold washing and agriculture, and they continued to export
them until they had neither hands to labor nor to fight for
them. It was just the story of the goose and the golden egg.
The coffee and sugar plantations and gold washings were abandoned, because the labor had been exported to the Brazils.
Many of the Portuguese then followed their slaves, and the
government was obliged to pass a law to prevent further emigration, which, had it gone on, would have depopulated the
Portuguese possessions altogether. As it was, the remaining
representatives of Portugal were little better than none, so far
as asserting any authority was concerned. The late war, which
only terminated a few months before Livingstone arrived from
the interior, had demonstrated how unable they were to cope
with the tribes about them in case of revolt. Kasika on the
north had plundered and burned all the plantations of the
wealthy merchants on that side of the river, and Nyaude, who
had placed his stockade just below the village, at the confluence
of the Luenya, had completely blockaded it during two years,
so that they had been compelled to send overland to IKilimane
for goods enough to buy food with.
The priests at Tete had no more power than the captains;
the church did not amount to any more than the fort. The
natives were careful to keep out of the range of the guns from
the fort, but acknowledged their authority no further. So they
kept out of the church, but cared nothing for the religion. The
Portuguese do not seem to have concerned themselves about the
religious beliefs of their wild associates.  Indeed, they were
rather inclined to make capital of the superstitions which they
should have sought to overcome. Certainly their metropolis
might also be regarded as the metropolis of heathen absurdities. Being made up of the representatives of various tribes,
it was also a focus of superstitions. They believe that many evil
spirits live in the air, the earth, and the water. These invisible
malicious beings are thought to inflict much suffering on the
human race; but, as they have a weakness for beer and a crav



280                CALICO CURRENCY.
ing for food, they may be propitiated from time to time by offerings of meat and drink. The serpent is an object of worship,
and hideous little images are hung in the huts of the sick and
dying. The uncontaminated Africans believe that Morungo,
the Great Spirit who formed all things, lives above the stars;
but they never pray to him, and know nothing of their relation
to him, or of his interest in them. The spirits of their departed ancestors are all good, according to their ideas, and on
special occasions aid them in their enterprises. When a man
has his hair cut, he is careful to burn it, or bury it secretly, lest,
falling into the hand of one who has an evil eye, or is a witch,
it should be used as a charm to afflict him with the headache.
They believe, also, that they shall live after the death of the
body, but have no distinct ideas of the condition of the departed
spirits.
The principal currency of the country was English calico,
which was received by the natives in exchange for any and
everything which they had for sale. Labor, grain, land, gold,
everything has its price in calico, and the cheapness of labor
particularly would almost turn the head of one of our employers, whose life is worried almost out of him by the system of
strikes which is the order of the day. Two yards of unbleached
calico is the price of a day's labor, or sixteen yards will hire a
man a month. Provision is equally cheap. In ordinary times
two yards of calico will buy twenty-four fowls, and a hundred
pounds of flour bring the same price.
The chief articles of export at the time of Dr. Livingstone's
visit, in 1856, were ivory and gold dust, and these not in very.
considerable quantities. The gold seems to have been the
temptation which first drew the Portuguese to the Zambesi; but
it is questionable whether they ever realized anything like their
hopes in the quantities of the precious metal which they obtained. There are, however, quite a number of washings in the
country, and it is probable that the world will yet find them
very lucrative. Dr. Livingstone had the opportunity of examining the gold dust from different parts to the east and northeast
of Tete.
Round toward the westward, the old Portuguese indicate a
station which was near to Zumbo on the River Panyame, and




THIE GOLD FIELDS.                 281
called Dambarari, near which much gold was found. Farther
west lay the now unknown kingdom of Abutua, which was formerly famous for the metal; and then, round toward the east,
are the gold washings of the Mashona, or Bazizulu, and, farther
east, that of Manica, where gold is found much more abundantly
than in any other part, and which has been supposed by some
to be the Ophir of King Solomon. Gold from this quarter
was seen as large as grains of wheat, that found in the rivers
which run into the coal field being in very minute scales. If
one leg of the compass be placed at Tete, and the other extended three and a half degrees, bringing it round from the
northeast of Tete by west, and then to the southeast, we nearly
touch or include all the known gold-producing country. As
the gold on this circumference is found in coarser grains than in
the streams running toward the centre, or Tete, Livingstone
imagined that the real gold field lies round about the coal field;
and, if he was right in the conjecture, then we have coal encircled by a gold field, and abundance of wood, water, and provisions-a combination not often met with in the world.
Dr. Livingstone had noticed some specimens of coal before
reaching Tete, but he there found that there were nine different
seams known to the Portuguese, all within the circle of gold
which we have described. The coal had, of course, received
very little attention, and the gold was almost as much neglected. The natives are not so fond of labor or of gold as to
go through the tedious process by which the precious dust is
obtained, and they only wash a little now and then when they
stand in need of calico. They had learned the value of the
treasure, though, and were very careful of it; they take it for
sale in goose quills, and demand twenty-four yards of calico
for a single penful.
In general appearance the country where these treasures
abound is highly picturesque; the hills are clothed with stately
forests, and the lovely valleys threaded by numerous streams
are very fertile, and, according to the standards of the country,
are well cultivated. The only farming implement here, however, as in other parts of Africa, is the hoe; the work is done
chiefly by the women, too, as elsewhere. After the grain is oiice
in the ground, a single weeding is all that is required. This




282             HOT SPRINGS NEAR TETE.
simple process represents all our subsoil plowing, liming, manuring, and harrowing, for in four months after planting a good
crop is ready for the sickle, and has been known to yield a
hundred-fold. No irrigation is required, because here there are
gentle rains, almost like mist, in winter, which go by the name
of " wheat-showers," and are unknown in the interior, where no
winter rain ever falls.
The plantations of coffee, which were a source of very considerable revenue previous to the opening of the slave trade,
had been abandoned, and hardly a tree could be found. Indigo and senna, which were mentioned as growing in the streets
of Tete, are found growing everywhere, but are allowed to decay,
crop after crop uncared for.
But we must not fail to mention the existence of a number
of hot springs which are to be found in the neighborhood of
Tete. Dr. Livingstone visited one called Nyamboronda, situated
in the bed of a small stream named N7yaondo; the little spring
bubbles up just beside the rivulet, and a great quantity of acrid
steam was seen rising up from  the ground adjacent, about
twelve feet square of which was so hot that men could not
stand on it with bare feet. There were several little holes from
which the water was trickling, but the principal spring was in
a hole about a foot in diameter and as much in depth; bubbles
were rising constantly; the thermometer being a few seconds
in the water the mercury stood steadily at 1600. A frog which
tried the experiment of a bath was taken out in a few minutes
well cooked. The stones over which the waters of this spring
flowed were found to be incrusted with white salt, and the water
had a saline taste; about the spring were rocks, syenitic, porphyry, in broad dikes, and gneiss tilted on edge; there were
also many specimens of half-formed pumice, with green-stone
and lava.
Indeed it was with ever-increasing interest and astonishment
that the traveller wandered over this wonderful region so richly
endowed and so sadly neglected. He was satisfied from his own
experience with the Africans that a wise policy would find the
people no obstacle to the opening of the singular treasuries
which God had put just near enough to the coast to be easily
found by the vanguard of civilization, and far enough toward




STARTS FOR KILIMANE.               283
the heart of the continent to insure the benighted inhabitants
the helpful influence of the enlightened strangers who might
come after the wealth.
It was evident to him that those whose failure was inscribed
everywhere had only failed because they were not true to the
obligations which they ought to have recognized; if they did
not, the manifestly selfish policy could no more expect the favor
of the savages than the blessing of God. He would not judge
the Portuguese or the priests unkindly, but he was satisfied that
neither captains nor priests could point to a satisfactory experiment in the country around Tete. And the ruins of forts and
churches told the same story of the folly of the strangers rather
than the hopeless barbarism of the natives.
WVhen at last the time came in which it was thought prudent
for Dr. Livingstone to go down to Itilimane, he found the
generous commandant as thoughtful for his comfort on the
journey as he had been assiduous in the attentions bestowed in
his home. There was abundant provision made for a safe and
pleasant sail down the noble river, and orders were issued that
the traveller should be at no expense for supplies. Full of
gratitude to God and men, Livingstone entered the large stronglybuilt canoe which had been provided for him, and sat down under the pleasant canopy which had been thoughtfully supplied,
and was pulled away from Tete on the 22d of April, 1856. He
had not forgotten his trusty followers; only sixteen of them
attended him to the sea, but he had made arrangements for them
at Tete, by which he was confident that they would be comfortable until his return, if indeed God should spare him to
continue his work in Africa.
Just below the village, on the right bank of the river, he
passed the ruins of the residences of the wealthy merchants, who
had been so recently the victims of Kisaka's groundless rage.
At the confluence of the Luenya he had a view of Nyaude's
fortress, which had proven so formidable in the recent wars.
It is only a strong stockade; it seemed, however, to be constructed of living trees, and could hardly be burned. It was
strange to see a stockade menacing the whole commerce of the
river in a situation where the guns of a vessel would have full
play on it, but it is a formidable affair for those who have only




284              THE GORGE OF LUPATA.
muskets. On one occasion, when Nyaude was attacked by
Kisaka, they fought for weeks; and though Nyaude was reduced
to cutting up his copper anklets for balls, his enemies were not
able to enter.
The gorge of Lupata was a point of considerable interest, and
Dr. Livingstone spent the night of the 24th on a small island
near its entrance that he might ascertain its latitude, which he
found to be 16~ 34' 46" south. At this point the Zambesi
converges quite suddenly, and flows through a gorge in a lofty
range of hills which crosses it at right angles; on the western
side the rock rises abruptly six or seven hundred feet, but on
the east the range is sloping and covered with trees. The river
in the gorge is about two hundred yards wide, and dashes quite
impetuously along its tortuous channel, and sweeps rapidly
around the little rocky promontories, Chifura and Kangomba,
forming dangerous whirlpools and eddies, and widens again to
miles in breadth, embracing many beautiful islands which were
once the homes of prosperous planters and yielded vast quantities of grain.
The gorge, as might be expected, has been fixed on by the
natives as the abode of peculiarly turbulent deities, who are supposed to preside over the perilous places, for the good or the
injury of those who attempt to pass. But whether there are
spirits good or bad, certain it is that the narrow pass is occupied
by one direful scourge: the tsetse waits there for its victims.
Elephants also and buffaloes frequent the spot. The country
on either side of the river was in anything but a peaceful state;
the southern shore had been ravaged recently by the Caffres,
here called Laudeens or Zulus, and Kisaka, who had no love
for the Portuguese, was ravaging all the lMIaganga country on
the other side.
On the 27th the party reached Senna, which was found to be
in a condition ten times more lamentable than Tete.; every
building in the village was in absolute ruin. The Laudeens
were in the habit of visiting the village periodically and levying
fines on the inhabitants, as they considered the Portuguese a
conquered tribe, and the half-castes, who in all the Portuguese
possessions constitute an important class, seemed to be in league
with them.




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SENNA AND SURROUNDINGS.               287
While Dr. Livingstone was there a party of Kisaka's people
were ravaging the fine country on the opposite shore. They
came down with the prisoners they had captured, and forthwith
the half-castes of Senna went over to buy slaves. Encouraged
by this, Kisaka's people came over into Senna fully armed and
beating their drums, and were received into the house of a native
Portuguese. They had the village at their mercy, yet could
have been driven off by half a dozen policemen. The commandant could only look on with bitter sorrow. He had soldiers,
it is true, but it was notorious that the native militia of both
Senna and Kilimane never think of standing to fight, but invariably run away and leave their officers to be killed.
The miserable state of this neglected post beggars description;
the officers were none of them paid by the home government
and are forced to engage in trade. The common soldiers had
now and then received a little6calico. It is lamentable that the
door to one of the finest regions'of the world should have fallen
into the hands of a people who have done nothing more than
hold it against the rest of the world for centuries. If instead
of military establishments there had been civil ones, and emigrants with their wives and plows and seeds, rather than military convicts with bugles and kettle-drums, eastern Africa might
be to-day the rival of any spot on earth in all that makes a
pleasant home on earth.
The country around Senna was more interesting than the
village; nature was uncontaminated and afforded a pleasing relief for the thoughts. In the village the most gratifying sight
of all was the negroes of Senhor Isidore building boats after the
European model. These negroes had been instructed in their
work by a European master, and had acquired such skill that
they could go into the forest and get out the timber, lay the
keel, fit in the ribs, and finish up very neat boats which would
bring from ~20 to ~100 apiece. This little show of life was
refreshing, in the midst of so much misery and ruin; for certainly slavery and immorality had done their work in Senna.
The European name was almost despised. The native wives of
the white men were little better than slaves, and their children
received none of the honorable regard which is granted them in
Angola. Dr. Livingstone saw a son of the former governor of




288              ARRIVAL AT KILIMANE.
Tete a slave. In Senna there is neither priest nor school; there
are the ruins of churches and convents, but such ruins are a
solemn mockery of the ignorance and sin whose blight rests on
everything.
It was the 11th of May before Dr. Livingstone continued his
journey. Forty miles below Senna he passed the confluence of
the Shire, which we shall have occasion to mention hereafter.
Below the Shire the hilly surroundings gave place to extensive
flats. There was no incident of special importance until Mazaro
was reached. At that point the delta begins. The Zambesi
had nowhere appeared more splendid, and the temptation was
very strong to follow it down to the sea; but Livingstone knew
that it had been explored that far up by another in whose statements he had confidence, and he therefore felt that it was better
for him to follow the other branch, although it was necessary to
leave the boats and canoes. A sudden fever had set in, as if
determined to give him a farewell embrace. With throbbing
veins and aching temples he toiled on afoot along the banks of
the Mutu. The fever continued raging, and the large sailing
launch which was put at his service by Senor Asevedo, at Interra, was felt to be truly a godsend. The village of Kilimane
was reached on the 20th of May, 1856, and Dr. Livingstone
was received most cordially into the home of Colonel Galdino
Jose Nunes, "one of the best men in the country."
It had been sixteen years since the missionary first landed at
the Cape. He had spent nine of ten years in patient work,
teaching and dispensing the gospel of Christ. Then providence
had unsettled him and he could find no rest for his foot. Six
years he had spent exploring the unknown wilds. He had
done the work of an explorer under the inspiration of the gospel. " As far as I am myself concerned," says he, "the opening
of the new central country is a matter for congratulation only
in so far as it opens up a prospect for the elevation of the inhabitants. As I have elsewhere remarked, I view the end of the
geographical feat as the beginning of the missionary enterprise.
I take the latter term in its most extended signification, and
include every effort made for the amelioration of our race, the
promotion of all those means by which God in his providence
is working, and bringing all his dealings with man to a glorious




LIVINGSTONE'S THEORY.               289
consummation. Each man in his sphere, either knowingly or
unwittingly, is performing the will of our Father in heaven.
Men of science, searching after hidden truths, which, when discovered, will, like the electric telegraph, bind men more closely
together-soldiers battling for the right against tyrannysailors rescuing the victims of oppression from the grasp of
heartless men-stealers-merchants teaching the nations lessons
of mutual dependence-and many others, as well as missionaries, all work in the same direction, and all efforts are overruled for one glorious end."
His experience at I(olobeng had taught him that the most
permanent results of missionary labor could be realized only by
bringing the people into such relations with other nations that
a natural business interest would be felt in their improvement.
He felt that to encourage Africans to cultivate their soil and
gather their treasures for an honest market among Christian
nations would most effectually open the way for the gospel. It
was his idea to have the missions of Africa enjoy the protection
and fostering care of nations which might feel themselves in
some sort interested materially in the elevation of the tribes.
In the hope of this he had traversed the country from the Cape
to Loanda, and from Loanda across to the mouth of the Zambesi, and had brought out assurances of inexhaustible resources,
in the fertility of soil, the wealth of timber, an amazing amount
of animal life, with birds, fowls, fishes, etc.; the profusion of
fruits, iron, coal, gold; and all in the midst of people through
whose villages he had passed unharmed; who were weary of
their own unsettled condition and eager for the intercourse of
the white man. He had suffered severely in body, and had
made sacrifice of his fbndest affections; but he was rewarded by
the hope that his labor would be effectual in engaging the attention of mankind for Africa.'Tis beautiful to find this noble
man, forgetful of his sorrows and toils, recounting so happily
the kindnesses he had received. He was a man on whom the
smallest attention was not lost. His humility and his independence both forbade his making demands of his fellow-men, and
all that they did for him was accounted kindness and received
with gratitude. In all his discoveries he did not fail to note
the discovery of "a vast number of good people in the world."




290          DEPARTURE ON THE " FROLIC."
And his heart was full of devout thanks to the Gracious One
who had watched over him in every position, and influenced
hearts of both black and white to regard him with favor.
It must have seemed a long six weeks that he was waiting at
Kilimane.  But at length the "Frolic" arrived, bringing
abundant supplies for him and ~150 to pay his passage to
England. The eight of his followers who had been allowed to
accompany their " father " to the coast were eager to follow him
still. The order of Sekeletu to them was that none of them
should turn back until they had reached "Ma Robert."  The
simple resolution of these men, accustomed to absolute obedience, could hardly submit to the difficulty of crossing the sea.
They only knew that wherever their " father " might lead they
were to follow. But Livingstone prevailed on them to go back
to Tete, where food was more abundant, and await his return
to them. He was constrained, however, to allow the Sekwebu
to accompany him. This man had been of great service, and it
was hoped that it would be beneficial to him to be brought in
contact with thorough civilization. And being a man of remarkable intelligence, it could hardly fail to be of great service
to have him return filled with respect and love for the English
and aspirations for a nobler life; but how sadly the hopes of the
missionary were disappointed shall be seen.
It will be remembered that Sekeletu had committed large
quantities of ivory to Dr. Livingstone, and commissioned him
to procure a few articles. A man less sincerely interested in
the heathen, or less conscientious, might have acted differently.
This man was too anxious that no hurtful impressions should
be made on the minds of the people-whose salvation he sought,
and not their substance-to take the slightest advantage of his
position; and although the larger portion of the ivory was a
gift to himself, he stored it all at Kilimane, that he might not
be thought to have made off with Sekeletu's property, and determined to purchase the articles he had ordered with his own
means, if he should return as he expected.
They left Kilimane on the morning of July 12th. The sea
was in a rage, and the little boats were tossed like straws on the
mighty waves. One moment they were trembling on some
lofty crest, then rushing down the slope the next moment, they




HOME AT LAST.                  291
would seem to strike the very bottom of the sea, while the wild
breakers swept over them, making even the stout hearts of old
seamen tremble. The experience of the sea was new to Sekwebu, and he looked at his friend and inquired anxiously, " Is
this the way you go? is this the way you go?"  The smile of
Livingstone encouraged him and quieted his fears. At the
ship's side the landsmen had to be lifted in as ladies usually
are. But once on board they were at home.  The hearty
English welcome filled the soul of Dr. Livingstone with inexpressible gladness. But he had almost lost command of his
native tongue. Sekwebu became a great favorite with all on
board. But the poor fellow was perplexed; there was too great
a strain on his untutored mind. When he had picked up a
little English, he would frequently say to his "father ": "Your
countrymen are very agreeable; but what a strange country is
this-all water together! "  Before they reached Mauritius the
faithful man became insane and cast himself into the sea, and
could never be found afterward. After a delay of two months
at Mauritius for the recovery of his health, Livingstone reached
the shores of his "dear old England" on the 12th of December.
Who shall follow him and violate with curious gaze the
sacredness of the joyful meeting with his wife and children, and
tell how fondly he clasped an aged mother in his manly arms,
and how she thanked God that her "boy" was back again?
And who shall interview the memories which crowded about
him as he walked by the banks of the Clyde?
It is our business, though, that all England gave him welcome; that the news of his return was hailed with gratitude by
thousands who had followed him with their prayers.
Men of science, statesmen and Christians, cherishing each
their different interests, accounted him their friend and helper.
The church and government and societies vied with each other
in doing him honor. He was concerned only that societies and
government and church should love his work and lend it their
support.




CHAPTER XIII.
AT HOME.
Meeting on January 5th-Egyptian Hall-Splendid Assembly-Speech of Lord
Mayor-Speech of Bishop of London-Speech of Sir Roderick MurchisonLivingstone's Response-Resolutions-Subscription-Travels in EnglandPublic Enthusiasm-Public Meeting in Manchester-Resolutions - Public
Meeting at Leeds-Addresses and Resolutions-Generous Rivalry of Cities and
Institutions-Presentation of the Freedom of London to Livingstone-Distinguished Personages-Complimentary Addresses-Tremendous Applause-A
Beautiful Casket-Imposing  Ceremony-Book-Writing-Difficulties-Surprised by the Appearance of a Bogus Book-Explanation-Announcement of
Dr. Livingstone's Book-Twentieth Thousand in Six Weeks-Press Comnments-Extract from the London Leader of that Date-Effects of the BookInterest in Commercial Prospects of Africa-Interest in Missions-Action of
Missionary Societies-Invitations to Oxford and Cambridge-Grand Assembly
at Cambridge-The Reception of Livingstone, According to Professor Sedgwick-Reception of War Veterans-Of Chancellors-Of the Queen-None
More Hearty than that of Livingstone.
THE presence of Dr. Livingstone in England deepened the
interest in the great enterprise which had engaged his heart so
fully, and in connection with which he had commanded the respect of the noblest and most intelligent men of the land. The
greatest respect was paid him in public and private.
On the 5th of January a large and splendid assembly filled
the grand Egyptian Hall in the Mansion House, which had
been granted by the Lord Mayor of London for the purpose of
presenting a testimonial to Dr. Livingstone for the service rendered by him  to commerce, science and civilization, by his
discoveries in South Africa.  The Lord Mayor presided, and
conspicuous in the assembly were the Bishop of London, the
Bishop of Victoria, various members of Parliament, distinguished
travellers and men of science. Dr. Livingstone was received
with great enthusiasm. The Lord Mayor opened the meeting
with a little speech, in which he " ventured to assert that the
most gratifying event connected with his mayoralty was, that
the first meeting in the hall was for the purpose of paying a
292




RECEPTION IN LONDON.                293
national tribute of admiration and praise to Dr. Livingstone,
the great traveller in Soluth Africa. His decided committal of
himself and the English people to the great work of African
exploration, and the unqualified expressions of sympathy with
the great and self-sacrificing man whom they now claimed as
their guest," were most heartily indorsed by the cheers and
volleys of applause which hailed almost every sentence, and
only subsided in respect for the distinguished Bishop of London,
who was next introduced. The bishop assured the audience
that he accounted it a great privilege to be permitted to meet
together in the greatest metropolis of the world, to express
thanks to Divine Providence for allowing Dr. Livingstone to be
brought back in safety from the perils which he had undergone,
and the meeting he trusted would be permitted to hope, that
when he was about to return to that country, where his heart
was devoted to the service of the Lord, the same providence
would continue to protect him. It was, indeed, most gratifying
to meet here to express an opinion of what Dr. Livingstone had
done. It was most gratifying to find that civilization, the spirit
of commercial enterprise, and the missionary cause should go
hand in hand: in the person of Dr. Livingstone they had all
these three united. There was a lesson for themselves in this
great man, which probably those whom he addressed would not
be slow to apply: that they ought never to separate common
secular pursuits from those that worked the glory of God. "A
few years ago it was said that the age of heroism was passed;
but the lie had been given to that by the brilliant instances
which had recently occurred. And whilst they celebrated those
cases at home, it was gratifying to find that in far-distant fields,
uncheered by applause, this man whom they met to honor carried on his heroic enterprise, deserving and commanding the
praise of his countrymen more than others to whom they had
been ready to award it."
Several other distinguished gentlemen addressed the audience,
among whom was that generous and devoted friend of Dr.
Livingstone, Sir Roderick Murchison, the learned devotee of
geographical science and president of the Royal Geographical
Society. Dr. Livingstone found great difficulty in responding
to these cordial and congratulatory speeches; his tongue had
15




294           COMMENDATORY RESOLUTIONS.
been long accustomed to other dialects; the language of Africa
had become more familiar than that of his mother. He could
little more than thank the assembly for the honor and sympathy
which he received, and promise them the opportunity of reading at their leisure accounts of his wanderings in the benighted
land which had excited so much curiosity and enlisted so deep
an interest. And among the interesting notices of the meeting,
which may be found in the papers of the day, were the following
resolutions offered by the Bishop of London and Sir Roderick
MBurchison, and most enthusiastically carried:
"This meeting, consisting of merchants, bankers and others,
citizens of London, hereby present Dr. Livingstone their sincere
congratulations on the signal care and protection of Divine
Providence vouchsafed to him throughout his prolonged and
i)erilous labors in exploring the interior of south Africa; the
meeting cherishes the gratifying assurance that the important
discoveries of Dr. Livingstone will tend hereafter to advance
the interests of civilization, knowledge, commerce, freedom and
religion among the numerous tribes and nations of that vast
continent."
The resolution of Sir Roderick Murchison was characteristic
of the man whose generosity was the handmaid of his greatness,
and whose sense of justice was equal to his learning; he moved:
"This meeting, highly appreciating the intrepidity and perseverance of Dr. Livingstone in his extended and dangerous
journeys, deems it incumbent to originate a pecuniary tribute as
an expression of their admiration and gratitude for his disinterested and self-denying labors in the cause of science and
philanthropy."
The enthusiastic assembly was only too eager for an opportunity of expressing an interest so material in such a man and
such an enterprise, and their generous contributions underscored
their words of love and cheer. With such an introduction, it
was not to be expected that a year in England could be a year
of rest and retirement for Dr. Livingstone. Various communities desired to honor him, and he could not refuse their invitations, so candid and complimentary, if he had not considered
every such occasion a golden opportunity for impressing the
tremendous consequences of African exploration and evangeliza



MANCHESTER MEETING.                  295
tion on the minds of his fellow-countrymen. Thoroughly impressed with the conviction that the true system of evangelization in such a country should not despise the humbler agencies
which seek only the narrower aims of the present existence, it
was his constant endeavor to awaken and deepen the interest of
his countrymen in the commercial offerings of Africa. The
diligence and enthusiasm with which he was all the time striving to enlighten the people before whom he appeared concerning
the agricultural and mineral resources of the wild continent is
explained, not by the deeper interest which he felt in such matters,
but the eagerness with which he sought to bridle the mighty
energies of human interest into the service of Christian missions.
Nor was he unsuccessful; all England became aroused; there
were meetings in all quarters, eager to hear at his lips accounts
of the wonderful possibilities which lay concealed in the forests
which he had so heroically penetrated and passed through from
sea to sea. The members of the Chamber of Commerce, Commercial Association and Cotton Supply Association assembled
in the Town Hall, at Manchester, and extended him a most
hearty reception. He addressed them on the commercial pro.ducts and prospects of Africa, calling particular attention to the
capacity of the continent for growing cotton. The deepest attention, and questions betraying a real interest in the matter,
evinced the power of the facts which he stated and the arguments which he educed; and at the end of his address the following motion was put and carried:
"1 That this meeting desires to express its warmest thanks to
Dr. Livingstone for his visit to Manchester; to record their appreciation of the importance of 4iis discoveries; their high sense
of his noble exertions for the extension of knowledge, as well
as his self-devotion in again seeking to visit those hitherto unexplored countries with a view to their civilization by the aids
of Christianity an-d commerce; that, feeling a deep interest in the
self-denying labors of Dr. Livingstone, this meeting earnestly
requests her Majesty's government will place at his disposal a
steamboat duly appointed and capable of ascending the navigable portion of the Zambesi, with such further accommodation
in boats and otherwise as may be deemed sufficient for the exploration of its tributaries, and for obtaining and retaining




296                MEETING AT LEEDS.
friendly relations with the natives of that interesting region.
And the public bodies now assembled pledge themselves to use
their utmost exertions for the promotion of these objects; that
this meeting desire to impress on her Majesty's government their
earnest desire that the aid of the Portuguese government should
be especially requested towards facilitating, in every possible
manner, the further researches of Dr. Livingstone in the interior
of Africa, and more especially in the districts surrounding the
river Zambesi and its tributaries; that a sub-committee of the
following gentlemen, being the chairmen of the public bodies
here assembled, be empowered and requested to carry out the
resolution of this meeting, with power to add to their number:
Mr. John Cheetham, M. P., Mr. J. A. Turner, M. P., and Mr.
Thomas Basley."
Shortly after the meeting in Manchester, Dr. Livingstone was
called on to address an aggregate meeting of the Leeds, Bradford and Halifax Chambers of Commerce, in the Leeds Stock
Exchange. The meeting received him with great respect, and
added their voice to the resolutions passed at Manchester. The
commercial chambers of West Riding came in with their indorsement, and called on the county members, Lord Viscount
Goderich and Mr. Edmund Denison, for their influence in support of the explorer. The speech, in which Lord Goderich
responded to the call, was as cordial and flattering as could be
desired. In the course of it, he said: " When we consider the
vast industries in England which are altogether dependent on
the regular and extensive supply of cotton, can we doubt that
Dr. Livingstone's discoveries are of the greatest political interest
to the country? WVe ought to ~have the means of drawing our
supplies of cotton from various sources; we should be as nearly
independent of local circumstances as possible, for these local
circumstances might affect, at any day, both the source and extent of the supply."  But his lordship would not be understood
as advocating the views of Dr. Livingstone and sustaining his
enterprise solely on commercial grounds: he entered "most
heartily into those higher motives which actuated the hero-missionary in carrying civilization and Christianity into those distant
regions."
Such was the interest which, spreading beyond all missionary




FREEDOM OF LONDON.                  297
societies and creed lines, was preparing the English people to
adopt as their honored and trusted agent the man who, under
all circumstances, avowed his absolute consecration to the conversion of Africa to Christ, which was ripening the request in
the heart of the nation that the church would suffer their missionary explorer to become an explorer missionary. Such was
the interest which caused a he'arty rivalry between city authorities and commercial unions and scientific societies in bestowing
oh this humble, earnest, consecrated man their highest honors.
Various cities presented him the freedom of their corporations.
The ceremony of this attention in London was peculiarly imposing.  "On the 21st of May," says the Illustrated London
News, "the Court of Common Council presented an unusually
gay appearance in consequence of the attendance of a number
of ladies to witness the ceremony of presenting Dr. Livingstone
the''freedom of the city,' as a testimonial of his zeal and persevering exertions in the important discoveries which he has
made in Africa. Dr. Livingstone was introduced amid great
applause by Mr. J. E. Saunders and Alderman Rose, the mover
and seconder of the resolution; and, after the declaration of
freedom was read, was addressed by Sir John Key, Bart., the
Chamberlain, in a highly eulogistic speech, in'which were fully
detailed the difficulties overcome, and the benefits to science and
art achieved by his indomitable zeal. Dr. Livingstone's address
in reply was vehemently cheered; and, after receiving the congratulations of the Lord Mayor and the principal members of
the corporation, and of the lady mayoress and several ladies, he
retired amid great applause."
This testimonial of the city government was presented in a
beautifully-ornamented casket, designed and manufactured by
the best skill.  The box itself was of African oak, with representations of miniature palm trees in frosted silver at each
corner. On each of the four sides there was a silver plate. On
that in front was engraved the resolution of the court; that at
the back represented an African scene, with the doctor exploring
a river, and at the ends were science and commerce in bold
relief —science surrounded by a globe, compass and telescope;
commerce by coal pits, shafts, etc. The lid was surmounted by
a group of figures-an European holding the hand of friendship




298              TI-IE VEXATIOUS BOOK.
to an African under a palm tree. Such a design, so highly
characteristic, executed by the most exquisite skill, was a beautiful expression of the appreciation which was as thoughtful as
it was ardent. Such an expression of regard and appreciation
on the part of the highest dignitaries might have turned the
head of a less earnest man; but Dr. Livingstone was absorbed
in the great work to which he felt that God had called him, and
to which he had so willingly devoted himself.  Among the
many engagements which filled his time, not the least important
or laborious by far was the preparation of his voluminous account of his sixteen years in South Africa. Those who have
never undertaken the making of a book have yet to learn the
A B C of sympathy for those who contribute so important a
part of our happiness. A volume of seven hundred closelyprinted pages, made up largely from memoranda written years
before, in the midst of ever-changing scenes-written, too, under
the great disadvantage of having grown unused to his native
tongue-was itself abundant occupation for a rest year. The
work seemed to progress very slowly; several times the active
man —who could perform noble deeds more rapidly than he
could recount them, and could suffer with a better relish than
he could complain-was on the point of abandoning the book
that he might hasten to the scene of fresh labors and new adventures. It is hardly surprising that he exhibited rather
unusual annoyance when, very unexpectedly one fine autumn
morning, his eye read the advertisement of the "Travels of
David Livingstone in South Africa," by an author unknown to
him, who, depending only on newspaper articles and Geographical Society reports, had come before the public with his work,
while the real hero of the story was still groaning over the unfinished chapters of his book. The severity of the doctor upon
this author and on the publishers as well was fearful; but, like
generous men that they were, finding that the traveller himself
was preparing an account of his own adventures and discoveries,
they threw away their labor and the money they had expended,
by suppressing the book entirely, and the public appetite was
only whetted by the incident for the real work of Dr. Livingstone, which was announced about the 1st of September, 1857,
and an advertisement in the November following mentioned the




EDITORIAL COMMENTS.                 299
twentieth thousand just taken from the press. Seldom had the
reading public of England manifested a deeper interest in a
book; an interest, too, which was seconded by the great demand
for the singularly interesting book in other countries. It did
not, however, escape the severe criticism which everything
human must expect, since there are so many people in the world
whose single aptitude is for slaughter, and whose solitary delight consists in viewing the mutilation of productions which
they despise because they are incapable of appreciating them.
The leading journals of' England and America made haste to
furnish their readers with very extended reviews, which were
made up largely of lengthy quotations concerning the customs
of the people and the features of the country which the writer
had so vividly depicted. The London Leader for November
24th, in the midst of an extended editorial, could not restrain
its admiration, and burst forth into a very eloquent tribute.
"The author," says the reviewer, "is an Aladdin wandering
through his new palace, with its infinite series of chambers,
each a treasury.  HI-le is a Marco Polo recounting the marvels
of Nigritian Carthy. A Mungo Park, coming suddenly upon
unknown lakes and rivers. A Della Valle in the romance of
his adventures; and more than a sixteenth century pilgrim in
the intrepidity of his enterprises."
Public sentiment ripened rapidly after the publication of the
book. The simple, candid and carefill account of the tribes, tlie
soil, rivers, animals, trees, plants, climate and minerals, left no
room fordoubt, and the foremost men of the nation were reader
to forward with their means and influence an enterprise which
looked to the complete opening up of the wonderful land so
suddenly brought to view.
ZNor was the Christian community behind the commercial.
The London Missionary Society manifested their confidence in
the judgment of Livingstone by arranging for mission stations
with the Makololo and the Matebele. It was with deep regret,
too, that they relinquished from their service the man who was
so peculiarly fitted to head such enterprises; but they felt that
a more extended field demanded his services. It was not for
him to confine his attention to a single tribe or a circumscribed
territory. God seemed to have laid it upon him to be the




300            RECEPTION AT CAMBRIDGE.
pioneer of his truth throughout the length and breadth of the
land. Besides the action of the London Missionary Society, the
Free Church of Scotland sent out the Rev. James Stewart to
report on the practicability of commencing missionary operations
in the newly-explored territory. The great Universities of
Oxford and Cambridge sent for him, and in those grand centres
of learning and influence he was glad to appear with the avowed
"purpose of striving to awaken a deeper interest in Christian
missions to the heathen; and he spoke with the authority of the
greatest of modern travellers among'men, and in the places
where a missionary spirit ought to prevail pre-eminently."
And it is a noble record of those ancient and honorable institutions, that in their reception of the man and his message they
"proved themselves, as ever before, ready to recognize merit,
advance science, encourage philanthropy and promote religion."
" At Cambridge particularly," says a contemporary, " the scene
in the Senate House was worthy of the most graphic painting of
pen or pencil. There was a solemn majesty about it which all
must have felt. It was an uncommon occasion. Cambridge
elevation and culture came suddenly into contact with the
mighty questions of African degradation and progress. Extremes had met. Africa was appealing by the mouth of her
warm-hearted advocate in one of the greatest centres of civilization and evangelization in the world, for help in her feebleness, light in her darkness, truth wherewith to battle her own
error, and redress against her cruel wrongs of centuries."
The period of the doctor's visit to Cambridge was very opportune. The academic body, and especially the chief authorities,
were in residence, and among the distinguished men who paid
him  marked attentions were Dr. Whewell, Master of Trinity
College; Professor Sedgwick, the Astronomer Royal; Professor
Selwyn; and Dr. Bateson, Master of St. John's College. A few
paragraphs of a letter by Professor Sedgwick about that time,
for publication, cannot fail to interest every one who reads this
book. "In the long period of my academic life," he says, "I
have been many times present in our Senate House on occasions
of joyful excitement. The few amongst us who remember the
early years of this century cannot now forget the thoughts which
filled the national heart, if not with fear, at least with sorrow




DISTINGUISHED WELCOME.               301
and deep anxiety; for England saw nation after nation falling
before the sword of the first Napoleon; till at length she stood
alone, with all the great powers of Europe combined against
her. But a brighter season followed.  Europe regained its
freedom from military domination; and England, with her institutions safe and her soil inviolate, seemed to stand on a pinnacle of glory. Again and again have I seen those good, stouthearted men who, under God, had helped to work out the
deliverance of Europe from military servitude, greeted in the
Senate House with our loudest acclamations. I have been
present at four installation festivals, when we met to do honor
to the good men whom by our votes we had placed at the head
of the University. All these were occasions of honest and great
excitement. The last of them was graced and honored by the
presence of our sovereign. To her was due the first homage of
the University, and it was given by us not grudgingly, but
with a loyalty that carried us almost beyond ourselves, and
drew from us the most fervent gratulations that affectionate and
grateful subjects are permitted to exhibit in the presence of their
sovereign. Nor did we, during that season of loyalty, forget
our youthful chancellor, or abate one jot of the honor due him.
WVe greeted him as one placed by our free choice in the highest
office of the University; as the consort of our queen; as the
father of the future sovereign of England; and as a man well
trained in academic learning, to whose wisdom we might look
for counsel in any times of difficulty, and to whose eloquence
and influence we might look for protection in an hour of danger.
All of these- were grand occasions; but on none of them," continues the enthusiastic professor, " were the gratulations of the
University more honest and true-hearted than those offered to
Dr. Livingstone. He stood before them a plain, single-minded,
cheerful man, and addressed that learned assembly in unadorned
and simple words; telling them simple facts, which, although
some present had read his book, had all the power of freshness
still. There was nothing of self-glorying. More than once
he exclaimed in the midst of his addresses,'I have made no
sacrifice; I have only done my duty.' Providence had guided
him; he had only obeyed impulses which he could not have




302               CHRISTIAN BROTHER.
been happy in suppressing. He was cherished and honored as
a Christian brother."
It may not be out of place to introduce here one of those
addresses which held a senate of scholars in profound attention.
It contains for us, as it contained for many in the audience to
whom it was spoken, much that we have read; but it may
serve to illustrate the man; at least, may be appreciated as a
pleasant memento of him, and as connected with an occasion
whose influence will be felt many years to come. We will,
therefore, dedicate a chapter to this address.




CHAPTER XIV.
LECTURE BEFORE CAMBRIDGE UNIVERSITY.
[Delivered before the University of Cambridge, in the Senate-House, on Friday,
December 4, 1857. Dr. Philpott, Master of St. Catharine's College, Vice.
Chancellor, in the chair. The building was crowded to excess with all ranks
of the University and their friends. The reception was so enthusiastic that
literally there were volley after volley of cheers. The Vice-Chancellor introduced Dr. Livingstone to the meeting, who spoke nearly as follows:]
W~HEN I went to Africa about seventeen years ago I resolved to acquire an accurate knowledge of the native tongues;
and as I continued, while there, to speak generally in the African
languages, the result is that I am  not now very fluent in my
own; but if you will excuse my imperfections under that head,
I will endeavor to give you as clear an idea of Africa as I can.
If you look at the map of Africa you will discover the shortness
of the coast-line, which is in consequence of the absence of deep
indentations of the sea. This is one reason why the interior
of Africa has remained so long unknown to the rest of the world.
Another reason is the unhealthiness of the coast, which seems to
have reacted upon the disposition of the people, for they are very
unkindly) and opposed to Europeans passing through their
country. In the southern part of Africa lies the great Kalahari
desert, not so called as being a mere sandy plain, devoid of vegetation: such a desert I never saw until I got between Suez and
Cairo.  Kalahari is called a desert because it contains no streams,
and water is obtained only from deep wells. The reason why so
little rain falls on this extensive plain is, because the winds prevailing over the greater part of the interior country are easterly,
with a little southing.  The moisture taken up by the atmosphere from  the Indian ocean is deposited on the eastern hilly
slope; and when the moving mass of air reaches its greatest
elevation, it is then on the verge of the great valley, or, as in the
case of the Kalahari, the great heated inland plains there meeting
303




304                  iaIN-MAIING.
with the rarefied air of that hot, dry surface, the ascending heat
gives it greater capacity for retaining all its remaining humidity,
and few showers can be given to the middle and western lands
in consequence of the increased hygrometric power. The people
living there, not knowing the physical reasons why they have
so little rain, are in the habit of sending to the mountains on
the east for rain-makers, in whose power of making rain they
have a firm belief. They say the people in these mountains
have plenty of rain, and therefore must possess a medicine for
making it. This faith in rain-making is a remarkable feature in
the people in the country, and they have a good deal to say in
favor of it. If you say you do not believe that these medicines
have any power upon the clouds, they reply that that is just the
way people talk about what they do not understand. They take
a bulb, pound it, and administer an infilsion of it to a sheep: in
a short time the sheep dies in convulsions, and then they ask,
Has not the medicine power?  I do not think our friends of
the homceopathic "persuasion " have much more to say than
that. The common argument known to all those tribes is this
-" God loves you white men better than us: he made you first,
and did not make us pretty like you: he made us afterwards,
and does not love us as he loves you. He gave you clothing,
and horses and wagons, and guns and powder, and that Book,
which you are always talking about. He gave us only two
things-cattle and a knowledge of certain medicines by which
we can make rain. We do not despise the things that you have;
we only wish that we had them too; we do not despise that Book
of yours, although we do not understand it: so you ought not
to despise our knowledge of rain-making, although you do not
understand it."  You cannot convince them that they have no
power to make rain. As it is with the homceopathist, so it is
with the rain-maker —you might argue your tongue out of joint
and would convince neither.
I went into that country for the purpose of teaching the doctrines of our holy religion, and settled with the tribes on the
border of the Kalahari desert. These tribes were those of the
Bakwains, Bushmen and Bakalahari. Sechele is the chief of
the former. On the occasion of the first religious service held,
he asked me if he could put some questions on the subject of




THE FUTURE STATE.                 305
Christianity, since such was the custom of their country when
any new subject was introduced to their notice. I said, " By
all means."  He then inquired "If my forefathers knew of a
future judgment?"  I said, " Yes; " and began to describe the
scene of the great white throne, and HIM who should sit on
it, from whose face the heavens shall flee away, and be no more
seen; interrupting, he said, "You startle me, these words make
all my bones to shake, I have no more strength in me. You
have been talking about a future judgment, and many terrible
things of which we know nothing," repeating, " Did your forefathers know of these things? " I again replied in the affirmative. The chief said, "All my forefathers have passed away
into darkness, without knowing anything of what was to befall
them; how is it that your forefathers, knowing all these things,
did not send word to my forefathers sooner? "  This was rather
a poser; but I explained the geographical difficulties, and said
it was only after we had begun to send the knowledge of Christ
to Cape Colony and other parts of the country, to which we had
access, that we came to them; that it was their duty to receive
what Europeans had now obtained the power to offer them;
and that the time would come when the whole world would receive the knowledge of Christ, because Christ had promised that
all the earth should be covered with a knowledge of himself.
The chief pointed to the Kalahari desert, and said, "Will you
ever get beyond that with your gospel?  We, who are more accustomed to thirst than you are, cannot cross that desert; how
can you?"  I stated my belief in the promise of Christ; and
in a few years afterwards that chief was the man who enabled
me to cross that desert; and not only so, but he himself preached
the gospel to tribes beyond it.
In some years more rain than usual falls in the desert, and
then there is a large crop of water-melons. When this occurred
the desert might be crossed: in 1852, a gentleman crossed it,
and his oxen existed on the fluid contained in the melons for
twenty-two days. In crossing the desert different sorts of country
are met with; up to twentieth south latitude there is a comparatively dry and arid country, and you might travel for four
days, as I have done, without a single drop of water for the
oxen. Water for the travellers themselves was always carried




306        OBJECT IN VISITING THE INTERIOR.
in the wagons, the usual mode of travelling south of the
twentieth degree of latitude being by ox-wagon.  For four
days, upon several occasions, we had not a drop of water for the
oxen: but beyond twentieth south latitude, going to the north,
we travelled to Loanda, one thousand five hundred miles, without carrying water for a single day. The country in the southern
part of Africa is a kind of oblong basin, stretching north and
south, bounded on all sides by old schist rocks. The waters of
this central basin find an exit through a fissure into the river
Zambesi, flowing to the east, the basin itself being covered with
a layer of calcareous tufa.
I My object in going into the country south of the desert was
to instruct the natives in a knowledge of Christianity, but many
circumstances prevented my living amongst them more than
seven years, amongst which were considerations arising out of
the slave system carried on by the Dutch Boers. I resolved to
go into the country beyond, and soon found that, for the purposes of commerce, it was necessary to have a path to the sea. I
might have gone on instructing the natives in religion, but as
civilization and Christianity must go on together, I was obliged to find a path to the sea, in order that I should not sinlk
to the level of the natives. The chief was overjoyed at the suggestion, and furnished me with twenty-seven men, and canoes
and provisions, and presents for the tribes through whose country
we had to pass. We might have taken a shorter path to the sea
than that to the north, and then to the west, by which we went;
but along the country by the shorter route there is an insect
called the tsetse whose bite is fatal to horses, oxen, and dogs,
but not to men or donkeys.-You seem to think there is a
connection between the two.-The habitat of that insect is along
the shorter route to the sea. The bite of it is fatal to domestic
animals, not immediately, but certainly in the course of two or
three months; the animal grows leaner and leaner, and gradually
dies of emaciation: a horse belonging to Gordon Cumming died
of a bite five or six months after it was bitten.
On account of this insect, I resolved to go to the north, and
then westwards to the Portuguese settlement of Loanda. Along
the'course of the river which we passed game was so abundant
that there was no difficulty in supplying the wants of my whole




HOSPITALITY OF THE NATIVES.           307
party: antelopes were so tame that they might be shot from the
canoe.  But beyond fourteen degrees of south latitude the
natives had guns, and had themselves destroyed the game, so
that I and my party had to live on charity. The people, however, in that central region were friendly and hospitable: but
they had nothing but vegetable productions; the most abundant
was the cassava, which, however nice when made into tapioca
pudding, resembles in its more primitive condition nothing so
much as a mess of laundress' starch. There was a desire in
the various villages through which we passed to have intercourse
with us, and kindness and hospitality were shown us; but when
we got near the Portuguese settlement of Angola the case was
changed, and payment was demanded for everything. But I
Ilad nothing to pay with. Now the people had been in the
habit of trading with the slavers, and so they said I might give
one of my men in payment for what I wanted. When I showed
them that I could not do this, they looked upon me as an interloper, and I was sometimes in danger of being murdered.
As we neared the coast, the name of England was recognized,
and we got on with ease. Upon one occasion, when I was
passing through the parts visited by slave-traders, a chief who
wished to show me some kindness offered me a slave-girl; upon
explaining that I had a little girl of my own, whom I should
not like my own chief to give to a black man, the chief thought
I was displeased with the size of the girl and sent ine one a
head taller. By this and other means I convinced my men of
my opposition to the principle of slavery; and when we arrived
at Loanda I took them on board a British vessel, where I took
a pride in showing them that those countrymen of mine and
those guns were there for the purpose of putting down the slavetrade. They were convinced from what they saw of the honesty
of Englishmen's intentions; and the hearty reception they met
with from the sailors made them say to me, " We see they are
your countrymen, for they have hearts like you." On the journey the men had always looked forward to reaching the coast;
they had seen Manchester prints, and other articles imported
therefrom, and they could not believe they were made by mortal
hands. On reaching the sea, they thought they had come to
the end of the world. They said, " We marched along with




308               ARRIVAL AT LOANDA.
our father, thinking the world was a large plain without limit:
but all at once the land said,'I am finished; there is no more
of me;'" and they called themselves the true old men-the
true ancients-having gone to the end of the world. On reaching Loanda, they commenced trading in firewood, and also engaged themselves at sixpence a day in unloading coals, brought
by a steamer for the supply of the cruiser lying there to watch
the slave-vessels. On their return, they told their people " we
worked for a whole moon, carrying away the stones that burn."
By the time they were ready to go back to their own country,
each had secured a large bundle of goods. On the way back,
however, fever detained them, and their goods were all gone,
leaving them on their return home as poor as when they started.
I had gone towards the coast for the purpose of finding a
direct path to the sea, but on going through the country we
found forests so dense that the sun had not much influence on
the ground, which was covered with yellow mosses, and all the
trees with white lichens. Amongst these forests were little
streams, each having its source in a bog; in fact, nearly all the
rivers in that country commence in bogs. Finding it impossible to travel here in a wheel conveyance, I left my wagon
behind, and I believe it is standing in perfect safety where I last
saw it at the present moment. The only other means of conveyance we had was ox-back, by no means a comfortable mode
of travelling. I therefore came back to discover another route
to the coast by means of the river Zambesi.
The same system of inundation that distinguishes the Nile
is also effected by this river, and the valley of the Barptse is
exceedingly like the valley of the Nile between Cairo and
Alexandria. The inundations of the Zambesi, however, cause
no muddy sediment like those of the Nile, and, only that there
are no snow-mountains, would convey the impression that the
inundations were the result of the melting of snow from adjoining hills. The face of the country presents no such features,
but elevated plains, so level that rain-water stands for months
together upon them. The water does not flow off, but gradually
soaks into the soil, and then oozes out in bogs, in which all the
rivers take their rise. They have two rainy seasons in the year,
and consequently two periods of inundation. The reason why




AFRICAN HONESTY.                  309
the water remains so clear is this: the country is covered by
such a mass of vegetation that the water flows over the grass,
etc., without disturbing the soil beneath.
There is a large central district containing a large lake formed
by the course of the Zambesi, to explore which would be well
worthy of the attention of any individual wishing to distinguish
himself.
Having got down amongst the people in the middle of the
country, and having made known to my friend, the chief, my
desire to have a path for civilization and commerce on the east,
he again furnished me with means to pursue my researches eastward; and, to show how disposed the natives were to aid me in
my expedition, I had one hundred and fourteen men to accompany me to the east, whilst those who had travelled to the west
with me only amounted to twenty-seven. I carried with me
thirty tusks of ivory; and, on leaving my wagon to set forth
on my journey, two warriors of the country offered a heifer
apiece to the man who should slay any one who molested it.
Having proceeded about a hundred miles) I found myself short
of ammunition, and despatched an emissary back to the chief to
procure more percussion caps from a box I had in my wagon.
Not understanding the lock, the chief took a hatchet and split
the lid open to get what was wanted; and notwithstanding the
insecure state in which it remained, I found, on returning two
years after, that its contents were precisely as I left them. Such
honesty is rare even in civilized Christian England, as I know
from experience; for I sent a box of fossils to Dr. Buckland,
which, after arriving safely in England, was stolen from some
railway, being probably mistaken for plate.
I could not make my friend, the chief, understand that I was
poor; I had a quantity of sugar, and while it lasted the chief
would favor me with his company to coffee; when it was gone,
I told the chief how it was produced from the cane Which grew
in central Africa, but as they had no means of extracting the
saccharine matter lie requested me to procure a sugar-mill.
When I told him I was poor, the chief then informed me that
all the ivory in the country was at my disposal, and he accordingly loaded me with tusks, ten of which, on arriving at the
coast, I spent in purchasing clothing for my followers; the rest
16




310                 NATIVE RELIGION.
were left at Quilimane, that the impression should not be produced in the country that they had been stolen in case of my
non-return.
Englishmen are very apt to form their opinion of Africans
from the elegant figures in tobacconists' shops; I scarcely think
such are fair specimens of the African. I think, at the same
time, that the African women would be much handsomer than
they are if they would only let themselves alone; though unfortunately that is a failing by no means peculiar to African ladies;
but they are, by nature, not particularly good-looking, and seem.
to take all the pains they can to make themselves worse. The
people of one tribe knock out all their upper front teeth, and
whvilen they laugh are perfectly hideous. Another tribe of the
Londa country file all their front teeth to a point, like cats'
teeth, and when they grin put one in mind of alligators; many
of the women are comely, but spoil their beauty by such unnatural means. Another tribe has a custom of piercing the
cartilage of the nose and. inserting a bit of reed, which spreads
it out, and makes them very disagreeable-looking; others tie
their hair, or rather wool, into basket-work, resembling the tonsorial decorations of the ancient Egyptians; others, again, dress
their hair with a hoop around it, so as to resemble the gloria
round the head of the virgin; rather a different application of
the hoop to that of English ladies.
The people of central Africa have religious ideas stronger
than those of the Caifres and other southern nations, who talk
much of God but pray seldom. They pray to departed relatives, by whom they imagine illnesses are sent to punish them
for any neglect on their part. Evidences of the Portuguese
Jesuit missionary operations are still extant, and are carefully
preserved by the natives; one tribe can all read and write, which
is ascribable to the teaching of the Jesuits; their only books are,
however, histories of saints, and miracles effected by the parings
of saintly toe-nails, and such like nonsense; but, surely, if such
an impression has once been produced, it might be hoped that
the efforts of Protestant missionaries, who would leave the Bible
with these poor people, would not be less abiding.
In a commercial point of view communication with this
country is desirable. Angola is wonderfully fertile, producing




THE PORTUGUESE IN AFRICA.              311
every kind of tropical plant in rank luxuriance. Passing on
to the valley of Quango, the stalk of the grass was as thick as
a quill, and towered above my head, although I was mounted
on my ox; cotton is produced in great abundance, though
merely woven into common cloth; bananas and pine-apples
grow in great luxuriance; but the people having no maritime
communication, these advantages are almost lost. The country
on the other side is not quite so fertile, but in addition to indigo,
cotton, and sugar-cane, produces a fibrous substance, which I
am assured is stronger than flax.
The Zambesi has not been thought much of as a river by
Europeans, not appearing very large at its mouth; but on
going up it for seventy miles it is enormous. The first three
hundred miles might be navigated without obstacle; then there
is a rapid, and near it a coal-field of large extent. The elevated
sides of the basin, which form the most important feature of the
country, are far different in climate to the country nearer theh
sea, or even the centre. Here the grass is short, and the Angola
goat, which could not live in the centre, had been seen on the
east highland by Mr. Moffat.
My desire is to open a path to this district, that civilization,
commerce, and Christianity might find their way there. I consider that we made a great mistake when we carried commerce
into India in being ashamed of our Christianity; as a matter of
common sense and good policy, it is always best to appear in
one's true character. In travelling through Africa I might
have imitated certain Portuguese, and have passed for a chief;
but I never attempted anything of the sort, although endeavoring always to keep to the lessons of cleanliness rigidly instilled
by my mother long ago. the consequence was that the natives
respected me for that quality, though remaining dirty themselves.
I had a pass from the Portuguese consul, and on arriving at
their settlement I was asked what I was. I said, "A missionary, and a doctor, too." They asked, "Are you a doctor
of medicine? "-" Yes."-" Are you not a doctor of mathematics,
too? "-" No."-" And yet you can take longitudes and latitudes." Then they asked me about my moustache; and I simply
said I wore it because men had moustaches to wear and ladies
had not. They could not understand either why a sacerdote




312          COMMERCE AND CHRISTIANITY.
should have a wife and four children; and many a joke took
place upon that subject. I used to say, " Is it not better to have
children with than without a wife?"  Englishmen of education
always command respect without any adventitious aid. A Portuguese governor left, for Angola, giving out that he was going
to keep a large establishment, and taking with him quantities
of crockery, and about five hundred waistcoats; but when he
arrived in Africa he made a " deal " of them. Educated Englishmen seldom descend to that sort of thing.
A prospect is now before us of opening Africa for commrerce
and the gospel. Providence has been preparing the way; for
even before I proceeded to the Central basin it had been conquered and rendered safe by a chief named Sebituane, and the
language of the Bechuanas made the fashionable tongue, and
that was one of the languages into which Mr. Moffat had translated the Scriptures. Sebituane also discovered Lake Ngami
some time previous to my explorations in that part. In going
back to that country my object is to open up traffic along the
banks of the Zambesi, and also to preach the gospel. The natives of central Africa are very desirous of trading, but their
only traffic is at present in slaves, of which the poorer people
have an unmitigated horror; it is therefore most desirable to encourage the former principle, and thus open a way for the consumption of free productions, and the introduction of Christianity
and commerce. By encouraging the native propensity for trade,
the advantages that might be derived in a commercial point of
view are incalculable; nor should we lose sight of the inestimable blessings it is in our power to bestow upon the unenlightened
African by giving him the light of Christianity. Those two
pioneers of civilization — Christianity and commerce-should
ever be inseparable; and Englishmen should be warned by the
fruits of neglecting that principle as exemplified in the result
of the management of Indian affairs. By trading with Africa,
also, we should at length be independent of slave-labor, and
thus discountenance practices so obnoxious to every Englishman.
Though the natives are not absolutely anxious to receive the
gospel, they are open to Christian influences. Among the Bechuanas the gospel was well received. These people think it a
crime to shed a tear, but I have seen some of them weep at the




THE MISSIONARY LIFE.                 313
recollection of their sins when God had opened their hearts to
Christianity and repentance. It is true that missionaries have
difficulties to encounter; but what great enterprise was ever accomplished without difficulty?  It is deplorable to think that
one of the noblest of our missionary societies, the Church Missionary Society, is compelled to send to Germany for missionaries,
whilst other societies are amply supplied.  Let this stain be
wiped off.-The sort of men who are wanted for missionaries
are such as I see before me;-mmen of education, standing, enterprise, zeal, and piety. It is a mistake to suppose that any
one, as long as he is pious, will do for this office. Pioneers in
everything should be the ablest and best qualified men, not those
of small ability and education. This remark especially applies
to the first teachers of Christian truth in regions which may
never have before been blest with the name and gospel of Jesus
Christ.  In the early ages the monasteries were the schools of
Europe, and the monks were not ashamed to hold the plough.
The missionaries now take the place of those noble men, and we
should not hesitate to give up the small luxuries of life in order
to carry knowledge and truth to them that are in darkness.  I
hope that many of those whom I now address will embrace that
honorable career. Education has been given us from above for
the purpose of bringing to the benighted: the knowledge of a
Saviour. If you knew the satisfaction of performing such a
duty, as well as the gratitude to God which the missionary must
always feel, in being chosen for so noble, so sacred a calling, you
would have no hesitation in embracing it.
For my own part, I have never ceased to rejoice that God
has appointed me to such an office. People talk of the sacrifice
I have made in spending so much of my life in Africa. Can
that be called a sacrifice which is simply paid back as a small
part of a great debt owing to our God, which we can never repay?-Is that a sacrifice which brings its own blest reward in
healthful activity, the consciousness of doing good, peace of
mind, and a bright hope of a glorious destiny hereafter?-Away
with the word in such a view, and with such a thought! It is
emphatically no sacrifice. Say rather it is a privilege. Anxiety,
sickness, suffering, or danger, now and then, with a foregoing
of the common conveniences and charities of this life, may make




314   LIVINGSTONE'S AFRICAN LIFE NO SACRIFICE.
us pause, and cause the spirit to waver, and the soul to sink, but
let this only be for a moment. All these are nothing when compared with the glory which shall hereafter be revealed in and
for us. I never made a sacrifice. Of this we ought not to talk,
when we remember the great sacrifice which HE made who left
his Father's throne on high to give himself for us:-"Who
being the brightness of that Father's glory, and the express
image of his person, and upholding all things by the word of
his power, when he had by himself purged our sins, sat down
on the right hand of the majesty on high."
English people are treated with respect; and the missionary
can earn his living by his gun —a course not open to a country
curate. I would rather be a poor missionary than a poor curate.
Then there is the pleasant prospect of returning home and
seeing the agreeable faces of his countrywomen again. I suppose
I present a pretty contrast to you. At Cairo we met a pfrty of
young English people, whose faces were quite a contrast to the
skinny, withered ones of those who had spent the latter years
of their life in a tropical clime; they were the first rosy cheeks
I had seen for sixteen years; you can hardly tell how pleasant
it is to see the blooming cheeks of young ladies before me, after
an absence of sixteen years from such delightful objects of contemplation. There is also the pleasure of the welcome home,
and I heartily thank you for the welcome you have given me
on the present occasion; but there is also the hope of the welcome
words of our Lord, " Well done, good and faithful servant."
I beg to direct your attention to Africa;-I know that in a
few years I shall be cut off in that country, which is now open;
do not let it be shut again! I go back to Africa to try to make
an open path for commerce and Christianity; do you carry out
the work which I have begun. I LEAVE IT WITH YOU!




CHAPTER XV.
AGAIN IN AFRICA.
Results of Efforts at Universities-Universities' Mission-Livingstone Appointed
British Consul —Interview with the Queen-Reasons for Accepting the
Governmental Appointment-Love for his Mother-Care of her-Government
Appropriation-The Farewell Banquet-Distinguished Assembly-SpeechesSir Roderick Murchison-Livingstone's Address-Arrangements CompletedMembers of the Expedition-The Steam Launch-The "Pearl"-The Departure from England-Livingstone's Responsibility-What the Government
Expected-Letters by the Way-Arrival at the Mouth of the Zambesi.
THE effort of Dr. Livingstone at the great universities was
not only an occasion full of complimentary attentions; it was an
occasion which did not pass from  the hearts of the noble men
with whom  he had held loving counsel, and he was rejoiced to
witness speedy preparations on the part of Oxford and Cambridge, in which they were joined by the Universities of Durham  and Dublin, for establishing a mission in Africa, to be
known as the " Universities' Mission to Central Africa."
The time was now drawing nigh when he felt that he could
no longer indulge himself'n the comforts of home, even though,
while there, his heart and hands were full of labors.  He had
been appointed by her majesty " British Consul to the Portuguese Possessions in South Africa," a position which he was
constrained to accept, because it afforded facilities for prosecuting
his work of opening Africa to the light of the gospel, which he
could not enjoy as the missionary of any board.  There was also
a demand on him  to assume relations which would be more
remunerative. His aged mother needed his aid, and his noble
heart would not excuse himself from  so holy a duty as that of
providing for the comfort of his mother, by even the important
duties of his distant mission. He loved the Africans, but he
did not feel himself called to suffer the light to go out in the
home of his mother that he might kindle one on the hearth of
his adopted brethren. The little incident, coming we hardly
315




316               FAREWELL BANQUET.
know how to our knowledge, sparkles like a jewel over the heart
of the man we have already learned to love not less than we
honor him.
Having appointed him as its ambassador, the government
also appropriated ~5000 for the fitting out of an expedition to
explore the Zambesi and the neighboring country, to be headed
by Dr. Livingstone. And her Majesty honored the man who
had become the central object of the time, with a personal interview. The Royal Geographical Society took a deep interest
in the new expedition, and one of the most interesting events of
Dr. Livingstone's sojourn in England was the farewell banquet
with which the distinguished members of this great society honored him on the 13th of February, 1868. The banquet was
presided over by Sir Roderick Murchison, and there were
more than three hundred gentlemen, many of them well known
and of illustrious rank. Science and art were there to do honor
to a noble man. The church and the state came to bid godspeed to the most faithful servant of both. The ambassadors of
Denmark, Sweden and Norway were there, and many nobles
and ladies filled the galleries, delighted to witness the proceedings and hear the speeches. There were many of these during
the evening. The ever-ardent president delivered a characteristic address, in the midst of which, after referring to the service which their honored guest had rendered to those interests
which are more conspicuous in huiman attention, he said:
" These are great claims upon the admiration of men of science;
but, great as they are, they fall far short of others which attach
to the name of the missionary who, by his fidelity to his word,
by his conscientious regard for his engagements, won the affection of the natives of Africa by the example which he set before
them in his treatment of the poor people who followed him in
his arduous researches through that great continent."
The speech of Dr. Livingstone on this occasion is particularly interesting, as giving a complete account of the great
traveller's plans. He arose and said:
"When I was in Africa I could not but look forward with
jovous anticipation to my arrival in my native land; but when
I remember how I have been received, and when I reflect that
I am now again returning to the scene of my former labors, I




FAREWELL SPEECH.                 317
am at a loss how to express in words the feelings of my heart.
In former times, while I was performing what I considered to
be my duty in Africa, I felt great pleasure in the work; and
now, when I perceive that all eyes are directed to my future
conduct, I feel as if I were laid under a load of obligation to do
better than I have ever done as yet. I expect to find for myself no large fortune in that country, nor do I expect to explore
any large portions of a new country, but I do hope to find
through that part of the country which I have already explored,
a pathway by means of the river Zambesi which may lead to
highlands where Europeans may form a settlement, and where,
by opening up communication and establishing commercial
intercourse with the natives of Africa, they may slowly, but not
the less surely, impart to the people of that country the knowledge and the inestimable blessings of Christianity.
"I am glad to have connected with me in this expedition my
gallant friend Captain Bedingfield, who knows not only what
African rivers are, but also what are African fevers. With his
aid I may be able to discover the principles of the river system
of that great continent, and if I find that system to be what I
think it is, I propose to establish a dep6t upon the Zambesi, and
from that station more especially to examine into that river
system, which, according to the statements of the natives, if
discovered, would afford a pathway to the country beyond,
where cotton, indigo, and other raw material might be obtained
to any amount.
"I am happy also in being accompanied by men experienced
in geology, in botany, in art, and in photography, who will
bring back to England reports upon all those points, which I
alone have attempted to deal with, and with very little means
at my disposal.'" The success —if I may call it success-which has attended
my former efforts to open up the country mainly depended upon
my entering into the feelings and the wishes of the people of
the interior of Africa. I found that the tribes in the interior
of that country were just as anxious to have a part of the seaboard as I was to open a communication with the interior, and
I am quite certain of obtaining the co-operation of those tribes
in my next expedition. Should I succeed in my endeavor,




318                FAREWELL SPEECH.
should we be able to open a communication advantageous to
ourselves with the natives of the interior of Africa, it would be
our great duty to confer upon them those great benefits of
Christianity which have been bestowed upon ourselves. Let us
not make the same mistake in Africa that we have made in
India, but let us take to that country our Christianity with us.
"I confess that I am not sanguine enough to hope for any
speedy results from this expedition, but I am sanguine as to its
ultimate result. I feel convinced that if we can establish a
system of free labor in Africa, it will have a most decided influence upon slavery throughout the world. Success, however,
under Providence, depends upon us as Englishmen. I look
upon Englishmen as perhaps the most freedom-loving people in
the world, and I think that the kindly feeling which has been
displayed towards me since my return to my native land has
arisen from the belief that my efforts might at some future time
tend to put an end to the odious traffic in slaves. England has,
unfortunately, been compelled to obtain cotton and other raw
material from slave States, and has thus been the mainstay and
support of slavery in America. Surely, then, it follows that if
we can succeed in obtaining the raw material from other sources
than from the slave States of America we should strike a heavy
blow at the system of slavery itself.
"I do not wish to arouse expectations in connection with
this expedition which may never be realized, but what I want
to do is to get in the thin end of the wedge, and then I leave it
to be driven home by English energy and English spirit.
"I cannot express to you. in adequate language the sense
which I entertain of the kindness which I have received since
my return to this country, but I can assure you that I shall
ever retain a grateful recollection of the way you have received
me on the eve of my departure from my native land.
"Reference has been made in language most kind to Mrs.
Livingstone. Now, it is scarcely fair to ask a man to praise
his own wife, but I can only say that when I left her at the
Cape, telling her that I should return in two years, and when
it happened that I was absent four years and a half, I supposed
that I should appear before her with a damaged character. I
was, however, forgiven. M/Iy wife will accompany me in this




A CHARACTERISTIC REPLY.              319
expedition, and I believe will be most useful to me. She is
familiar with the languages of South Africa, she is able to work,
she is willing to endure, and she well knows that in that country one must put one's hand to everything. In the country to
which I am about to proceed she knows that the wife must be
the maid-of-all-work within, while the husband must be the
jack-of-all-trades without, and glad amn I indeed that I am to
be accompanied by my guardian angel. Allow me now to say
just one word in reference to our chairman; let me just tell you
that I found a few days back an abstract from an address which
he delivered to the Geographical Society in 1852, and which he
had the assurance to send to me. In that address my distinguished friend foreshadowed a great portion of those discoveries
which I subsequently made, and all I can now say is that I
hope he will not do the same thing again."
All things were now ready. Some time before Lord Palmerston, then Prime Minister, had sent a distinguished member
of the bar to Dr. Livingstone, to ask him what he could do for
him, and his reply had been: "Open the Portuguese ports of
East Africa." Now he began to anticipate the realization of
his request. He was about starting to those coasts, protected
by English authority and clothed with the dignity of an
English official, to search out in the name of England the hidden land. The members of the expedition had been selected
by himself. They were Captain Bedingfield, R. N., well known
for his exploration of the Congo and other African rivers; Dr.
Kirk, M. D., of Edinburgh, as botanist; Mr. R. Thornton, of
the School of Mines, as mining geologist; Mr. T. Bains as
artist; Mr. Rae as engineer of the launch, and Dr. Livingstone's brother, who was expected to take charge of an establishment proposed to be fixed at the confluence of one of the
tributaries of the Zambesi."  A beautiful iron steam  launch
had been constructed by order of the government for the purposes of the expedition-a vessel seventy-five feet long, eight
feet broad and three feet deep, in the shape of a large flatbottomed boat, with both ends alike and covered with awnings
-a precious piece of invention and workmanship, which, as we
shall find, was better suited to dry land than such a river as the
Zambesi.




320         INSTRUCTIONS OF HER MAJESTY.
The farewell passed, and the good steamer " Pearl," with the
launch stowed away piecemeal in her capacious hull, and the
generous supplies of a liberal government, received her more
precious cargo of human beings on the 10th of March. Such
men as formed the expedition could be at no loss for occupation,
even in the narrow confines of their little floating home. There
was opportunity to reflect and converse and familiarize themselves with the plans by which they hoped to serve England
and Africa most acceptably. For Dr. Livingstone particularly
this was an expedition of vast responsibility. He had awakened
the interest which had determined the action of the government,
and which had moved a number of organizations to project
missions for central Africa. His responsibility imposed heavier
labor on him than he had ever performed. He must assist the
missionaries who were about leaving England; he could not
think of neglecting them; and he must see to it that the authorities which had commissioned him be not disappointed in the
results of the enterprise.  The explicit instructions of her
Majesty's government were that the knowledge already attained
of the geography and the mineral and agricultural resources of
eastern and central Africa be extended, that the acquaintance
of the inhabitants be improved, that they might be taught to
apply themselves to the cultivation of their lands with a view
to the production of raw material to be exported to England in
return for British manufactures; and it was hoped that, by
encouraging the natives to occupy themselves in the development of the resources of the country, a considerable advance
might be made towards the extinction of the slave trade, as they
would not be long in discovering that the former would eventually be a more certain source of profit than the latter. The
expedition was sent in accordance with the settled policy of the
English government; and the Earl of Clarendon being then at
the head of the Foreign Office, the mission was organized undelr
his immediate care. It was an enterprise, however, which embodied the principles of no one party. It possessed the hearts
of the people.
From the various points where opportunities were afforded
letters were sent back to England, all breathing the same lofty
courage and vigorous resolution and humble faith which so




ARRIVAL AT THE ZAMBESI.               321
fittingly distinguished those truly great spirits which have
always led the van of Christian civilization. In due time the
ship had passed the Cape and Natal, and drew near to the forests of mangrove, which, coming down to the water's edge, and
casting their shadows on the confluence of the Zambesi with the
sea, seemed as if conspiring with the usurpers of the soil for its
concealment.
CRICKET.




CHAPTER XVI.
ARRIVAL AT TETE.
Portuguese and the Zambesi-Posterity's Applause-The Explanation of the
Outlet-The Kongone-The Bar-The Country-Timidity of Natives-The
Fertility of Soil-The Natives' Curiosity-Their Cupidity-The Channel-The
Departure of the "Pearl "-The First Work -Mazaro-Excitement-Livingstone's Courage-Mariano's Cruelty-The Zulus-Their Tax-Their Character, Hospitality, etc.-Zulu Lawyer — Shupanga - The Grave Under the
Baobab-Reception at Senna-Senhor Ferraro-Arrival at Tete — We will
Sleep To-night."
NOTWITHSTANDING the expressions -of Portuguese sympathy
with the growing interest of the civilized world in African discovery, they have the credit of studiously preventing, as far as
they have been able, under pretence of friendliness, all those
expeditions which looked toward the elevation of the natives in
the grade of manhood, and avowed their antipathy to the trade
in slaves. The care which they have been at to obscure the
great eastern pathway toward the heart of the continent is too
noticeable and reproachful to escape the remark and censure of
one even whose charity was almost a fault sometimes. Dr.
Livingstone could not suppress or conceal his impatience when
he was satisfied that the cupidity of the nominal occupants and
possessors of the Zambesi delta had moved them to practise
deliberate deception, by means of maps and published papers,
concerning the real entrance of the noble river which they had
degraded into a highway for their unlawful and inhuman traffic.
It is well known that the "Kwakwa," or "River of Quilimane," some sixty miles distant from the mouths of the Zambesi, has long been represented as the principal entrance to that
great river; while in fact this "principal entrance" was little
more than a natural canal along which slave-boats might pass
from the Zambesi to Quilimane, at such times as the overflow
322




POSTERITY'S APPLAUSE.               323
of the river rendered it navigable; and only when the enterprise
of Livingstone had associated the discovery of the Zambesi with
his name, were the "authorities" provoked to confess that the
harbor of the Kongone had been for years a place of refuge for
their slave-ships from the "persecutions of English cruisers."
If we may depend on a statement which confesses such nefarious
deceptions and such selfish disregard of the progress of geographicaI science and the anxieties of all Christendom besides, in
order to recover the forfeited glory of discovery, we cannot
award them a prize which shall be any glory to them, except as
it is glorious to emulate the selfishness and falseness of the arch
enemy of human happiness, who labors always to divert the
rays of heavenly light from human souls, that a darkened realm,
where sin and sorrow struggle helplessly, may recognize his vile
dominion and pay him tribute. It is certain that Christian
people all over the world, whose hearts are swelling with hope
and joy while they trace the advance of African missions, will
think of David Livingstone when they pray for their sons and
daughters ascending the Zambesi. It is certain that thoughtful
men, the world over, will never erect their monuments to the
Portuguese when they realize the benefits of African commerce.
Whatever knowledge of the real highway may have been carefully treasured at Lisbon, and turned to the account of selfish
officials, the Governor of Tete testified, on the 9th of July,
1859, in a letter addressed to a brother official of Portugal, that
Dr. Livingstone was the first man who had passed from the sea
to Tete over the real outlet of the Zamnbesi. He claims the
glory of first exploring the mouths through which the great
river, which has come into such prominence in connection with
his travels, pours its waters into the ocean. He reported four
distinct outlets-the Milambe, which is the most westerly; the
Kongone, the Luabo, and the Timbwe (or Muselo). Of these
mouths the "report" says: "After the examination of three
branches by the able and energetic surveyor, Francis Skead,
R. N., the Kongone was found to be the best entrance. The
immense amount of sand brought down by the Zambesi has in
the course of ages formed a sort of promontory, against which
the long swell of the Indian ocean, beating during the prevailing winds, has formed bars, which, acting against the waters of




324                   THE KONGONE.
the delta, may have led to their exit sideways. The Kongone
is one of the lateral branches, and the safest, inasmuch as the
bar has nearly two fathoms on it at low water, and the rise at
spring tides is from twelve to fourteen feet. The bar is narrow
and the passage nearly straight.  Were it buoyed, and a beacon
placed on Pearl island, it would always be safe for a steamer.
When the wind is from the east or north the bar is smooth; if
from the south and southeast, it has a heavy break on it, and
is not to be attempted in boats. A strong current, setting to
the east when the tide is flowing, and to the west when ebbing,
may drag a boat or ship into the breakers. If one is doubtful
of his longitude, and runs east, he will soon see the land at
Timbwe disappear away to the north; and coming west again,
he can easily make out East Luabo from its great size, and
Kongone follows seven miles west. The Kongone is five miles
east of the Milambe; about seven miles east of the Kongone is
the East Luabo, and five miles east still is the Timbwe."
It is remarkable that no Portuguese residences were found
within " eighty miles of any mouth of the Zambesi."  Whether
they were ignorant of them, or, as they now claim, had their
settlements so far away as a piece of strategy in the interest of the
slave trade, is a question which we need not pause to discuss.
We have the testimony of the Livingstone expedition, that the
only human beings that were seen, as the "Pearl " was steered
into the Kongone, were the dusky natives leaping from their
canoes and dashing away through the mangrove thickets, in
evident terror of the white man, who, if known to them at all,
was only associated with memories of brothers or sisters or
children dragged away in chains to harder bondage in unknown
lands.
Some of the party on board the "Pearl" were unused to
wilderness scenes and the wonderful exuberancy of nature in
tropical lands. They seemed to have entered a new world.
Everything they saw, every sound that fell upon their ears, had
all the freshness of novelty. The trees and the plants were new;
the flowers and the fruits, the beasts, the birds, the insects, all
were strange and wonderful. The very sky itself seemed new,
glowing with colors or sparkling with constellations never seen
in northern climes. The arts and industries of other nations




THE SOIL OF THE DELTA.                325
had not reclaimed a single' square foot of territory about the
mouths of this river. The wilderness came down to meet the
wilderness. An untamed land and an untamed sea. The roar
of wild beasts answered the roar of the wild waves. The murmuring sea responded to the sighing forest.
The first twenty miles along the Kongone they passed between
rival jungles of mangrove; and when the mangroves were left
behind, on either hand there were vast level plains of rich dark
soil, covered with gigantic grasses which concealed the lairs of
wild beasts and intimidated even the most expert hunters.
Here and there the odd-looking huts of the natives, mounted
on "stilts," were seen hid away in bowers of bananas and cocoa
palms. The occupants of these little cotes were as industrious
as they could be expected to be, and frequently they had about
them an abundance of sweet potatoes, pumpkins, tomatoes,
cabbages, onions, peas, corn and sugar cane, which ivould have
encouraged the most omnivorous of our species to think of settlement. The wonderful soil of this delta can hardly have been
surpassed by even the marvellous fertility of Egypt in the days
when her mysterious river patron was most lavish of his blessings. Rice was found to be largely cultivated, but the peculiar
adaptation of the soil to the sugar cane was quite apparent, and
the members of the expedition were convinced that this region
alone, covering an area of eighty miles by about fifty, properly
handled, would supply all Europe with sugar.
As they ascended the river and came among the settlements
of the people, the steamers were manifestly the strangest spectacles which they had looked on. They gathered in groups
along the banks to gaze upon the apparitions. The "Pearl "
was in their eyes a floating village, and one old man who came
on board wondered if it "was made out of one tree."  But
either human nature is notably alike there and here, or those
humble, ignorant creatures have been apt scholars of their
white masters; for great as was their curiosity, it did not exceed
their cupidity. They were as full of questions as a Bostonian,
but as eager for a trade as a Connecticut peddler.  Whenever
the ships halted, the light, swift canoes were seen shooting off
from the banks, laden with every kIind of fruit and food which
the land afforded; and as they steamed off again, anxious sellers
17




326              THE ZAMBESI CHANNEL,
ran excitedly along the banks holding up fowls and fruits and
baskets of rice, meal or potatoes, shouting " Malonda! malonda! "
"Things for sale! things for sale!" and those in the canoes followed bravely along, exhibiting marvellous skill in the use of
their short, broad-bladed paddles; when they pleased forcing
their narrow vessels along the smooth surface almost with the
velocity of arrows.
The deep channel of the Zambesi is quite narrow when compared with the width of the river; and not only narrow, but
singularly tortuous, winding along among the countless sandbanks, from side to side of the stream, marked only by the
slight characteristic ripple when there is a fresh wind, and when
all is calm, by a peculiar boiling up of its water from some
action below. The fact that man is an expert navigator at the
sea does not save him from the shame of confessing himself
miserably at sea on such a river. Near the island of Simbo the
"Pearl's ",draught was found to be too great, and the Livingstone party were under the necessity of parting with their escort.
The goods designed for the expedition were placed on one of the
beautiful grassy islands about forty miles from the bar, and the
few men who had been chosen to share the toils and honors of
the devoted missionary explorer, in his new enterprise, took
leave of the generous captain of the " Pearl," and also of their
friend Skead, and sat down looking after the noble ship as she
steamed away toward the sea again. It may be a gloomy picture, that a great ship should enter an unknown harbor, sail
along an unknown river forty miles, between forests and jungles, where there were strange birds and beasts and flowers and
trees, and people stranger and wilder than all, and anchoring in
the middle of the river, place on a tiny, fairy-looking island a
few men and stores, and leave them there. But it is just what
was done. The enterprise which God had laid upon him was
one in which he was of necessity to be peculiarly independent.
About all that his friends in England could do, after furnishing
his "outfit," was just this: they could put him  down on the
borders of the unknown land. There can hardly be imagined a
more heroic scene than the landing of those few men on that
little island, and their quiet, manly leave-taking of the good
ship. They may as well be thought of as being left alone in




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DEIzENs OF TH sHIRE~ (page 299).








THE FIRST WORK.                   329
the midst of savages, for the Portuguese settlements were only a
burlesque on colonization; their pretensions were so poorly sustained and their influence so corrupting, that it would have
been better, on many grounds, if Livingstone had found the
natives entirely ignorant of white people.
It was the 18th of June when they were landed on the
island. The first thing to be done was to transport the stores
of the expedition to Shupanga and Senna. The difficulty and
anxiety of this work was greatly increased by the distressingly
unsettled state of the country. War was prevailing all around,
but they were favored by delightful weather, and were enabled
to rest from  their initiatory labors on the 13th of August.
During these months it was of course necessary for a portion of
the party to remain on the island. From  their little kingdom,
over which they asserted squatoter sovereignty, they could easily
see the large gfme of the neikhborhood moving about in the
forests or coming down to the water's edge; or they could watch
the strange manceuvres of thousands of little seed-birds, which,
like flocks of other small birds in Africa, are wonderfully expert
in the performance of most eccentric " gyrations and evolutions,"
separating and wheeling into columns again with the most
thorough military precision. There were all sorts of living
things in sight except human beings. The tedium of long
wilderness journeys by land is beguiled by many little perils
and difficulties and hunting exploits; but our party felt the
unvarying wilderness becoming dully monotonous before they
reached Mazaro. The uninhabited expanse on either hand was
unquestionably dreary, and the sporting of the water-fowls became very commonplace; even their interest in the enormous
monsters, which they might see at any time, became objects of
contempt as they became familiar.  As far as Mazaro there
were found no traces which contradicted the claimn of Dr.
Livingstone to being the true discoverer of the mouth of the
Zambesi. There was no trade whatever below that point. All
the merchandise of Senna and Tete was conveyed between that
point and a small stream about six miles distant, on men's
heads. On that little stream they were reshipped and found
their way to Quilimane along the Kwakwa. The scenery was
better about Mazaro.   The well-wooded  Shupanga ridge




330             EXCITEMENT AT MAZARO.
stretched off to the left, and in front blue hills rise dimly far in
the distance. There is at Mazaro the mouth of a little creek, a
few yards wide, flowing down with considerable fall into the
river, its entrance almost concealed by the tall grass which
grows up in its bed, which is the only explanation of a statement to be found in a map published in 1851 by the Portuguese "' Minister of Marine and the Colonies," that " at Mazaro
the Zambesi is one mile wide and flows to Quilimane."  The
Zambesi is nowhere nearer to Quilimane than it is at Mazaro.
This little post was in great excitement when Livingstone and
party arrived. There had been a serious battle raging between
the Portuguese and the people of a half-caste chief named
Mariano, a notoriously inhuman man, who has by his rebellion
and outrageous barbarities thoroughly incensed the Portuguese.
The scene of action was enveloped in a dense fog, which prevented the party from hearing or seeing anything of the battle
until they were on the ground. They had already established
friendly relations with both parties to this quarrel, and were
measurably protected by the charm which attaches to the English name. Dr. Livingstone landed without the least hesitation
to salute some of his old friends, and found himself in the sickening smell and confronting the horrible spectacle of mutilated
bodies of the slain.
The governor was very ill of fever at the time, and Dr. Livingstone was appealed to to take him across the river to Shupanga; he tried in vain to get somebody to assist him to the
boat with the sick man, but no one would volunteer for so
dangerous an undertaking, and the generous visitor would not
think of leaving another in such danger, so he entered the hut
alone, and, with considerable difficulty, at length succeeded in
dragging his excellency to the ship.
The Portuguese are even weaker in actual war than they
would seem to be if one should make an estimate of their forces
in times of peace, from the fact that many of those whom they
must depend on for military service are their native slaves, who
besides entertaining no special love for their masters have frequently a wholesome regard for their own safety, and are not
valiantly averse to securing that blessing in flight. At Mazaro
the Portuguese were on double duty; while some stood fighting




MARIANO'S CRUELTY.                 331
with great bravery against the enemy, others were as coolly
shooting at their own slaves who were retreating to the river.
It may be noticed that Mariano, who.was proving so very
annoying to the Portuguese, was a half-caste, as were most of
the chiefs who have most seriously opposed the authority of the
colonists. Indeed this class of men are the scourge of the whole
country; they are the keenest slave-hunters, and most bloodthirsty warriors, the most atrocious villains generally, who are
to be encountered. A gentleman of the highest standing told
Dr. Livingstone that it was no uncommon event for his family
to be disturbed while at dinner by a slave rushing into the apartment, pursued by one of Mariano's men, spear in hand. But
the people who have pretended to colonize in such a community,
on the false basis of mixed marriages with barbarous tribes, and
encouraging a trade so demoralizing as that which has distinguished the Portuguese enterprises in Africa, can hardly be surprised or complai.n that they have such a harvest of trouble
and failure. The folly of the Portuguese method was abundantly manifested by the eagerness with which the natives extended their most cordial hospitalities to the English expedition,
which they very quickly came to understand as representing a
very different method a.nd superior design. Even the rebels
under Mariano, on finding that Dr. Livingstone and his party
were Englishmen, not seeking slaves, but having at heart the
real improvement of the country and the elevation of the people,
received them with shouts of joy and welcome.
The Maruru, who occupy the country around Mazaro, lilke
the people generally who have had contact with white people
only in the Lisbon subjects, have become very distrustful, as
well as covetous; they required to be paid for all services, and
wanted their pay in advance; and the travellers naturally suspected that the favorite canoe-song of the men-the chorus of
which was, " Thou art slippery, slippery, truly "-was intended
to be a witty explanation of their demands for advance pay.
The white settlers on the west side of the Zambesi were hardly
happier than the people of the other bank. The Zulus, or
Laudeens, lord it there, and the merchants of Senna are under
the necessity of paying dearly for peace or forfeiting everything
by war; for never did landlord keep a sharper eye on tenants




332                    THE ZULUS.
than these dusky masters of the land keep on the Portuguese
colonists who assert a powerless claim to it. Regularly every
year they visit Shupanga and Senna in force, prepared to receive
or take by force their extortionate tribute.  It should not, however, be understood that the Zulus are the meanest people in the
world, because they improve the opportunity for securing some
return for the accommodation of residence on their shores, which
strangers think of value enough to pay for. Even according to
the strictest equity, it is questionable whether those who, going
from a Christian land, settle among heathen, with such objects
and principles as distinguish the emissaries of Portugal, should
be better treated. There is, in reality, very much to admire in
the Zulu character. They belong to the great Caffre family,
and stand complimented in history with the remarkable record,
" History does not present another instance in which so much
security of life and property has been enjoyed as has been experienced during the whole period of English occupation of
Natal by ten thousand colonists in the midst of one hundred
thousand Zulus."  They are a good-humored, generous and independent people. Unlike many Africans who envy the white
skins of the foreigners, these manly individuals are proud of
their dark hue, and if asked, " What is the finest complexion? "
reply with ready complacency, "Like my own, black, with a
little red." They love to number among the excellencies of
their king, that "he chooses to be black," "he might have been
white, but would not." The hair and features of the Zulus
might easily confound them with the negro tribes, but the more
careful view detects the "lofty forehead, the prominent nose
and high cheek-bones," and a certain dignity of countenance
which decide their claims to superior consideration. It is hardly
wonderful that such a life as they lead, in the midst of abundance of food, which may be had for the taking it-fruit, grain,
and game in abundance-should encourage a carelessness as to
the future. And if we add to this the consideration that under
the peculiar construction of their government every man's life
is in the hands of the king, it is not astonishing that an audience
of these people thought an address from the words, "Take no
thought for the morrow," entirely superfluous, since they had
"never done such a thing, nor ever expected to."  Ther, as in



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A ZULU LAWYER.                   335
deed do all the Caffre tribes, manifest quite surprising intelligence, and frequently display powers of Socratic argument which
would astonish some of our knights of the green bag. In illustration of this talent, on one occasion, " some individuals had
been detected in eating an ox, and the owner brought them before a council demanding payment for the animal. The defence
awas that they had not killed the animal, but found it dying of
a wound inflicted by another animal. When the defence was
ended, an old gentleman of the prosecution began in true lawyer
fashion to examine the previous speaker:
"Q.'Does an ox-tail grow up, or down, or sideways?'
"A.' Downward.'
" Q.'Do the horns of an ox grow up, down, or sideways?'
"A.'Upward.'
" Q.' If an ox gores another, does he not lower his head and
gore upward?'
"A.'Yes.'
" Q.':Could he gore downward-?
"A.'No.'
"The wily interrogator then forced the witness to examine
the wound which he said was inflicted by an ox, and admit that
the beast had been stabbed and not gored."
Another element of character distinguishes them, and one
which is, if possible, more remarkable among savages, who are
generally serious folks. They are very fond of joking, and
quite practical in them sometimes. A resident mentions that a
lad in his service once took great pains to tell his fellow-countrymen that the English were bound by etiquette to kneel down
and kiss the ground at a certain distance from the house. The
natives, born and bred in a system of etiquette equal to that of
any court in Europe, unhesitatingly' obeyed, while the lad stood
by superintending the joke with great delight. It was pleasant
to observe, too, that when the trick was at last found out none
enjoyed it more than those who had fallen into the snare.
In addition to all their other virtues, they are essentially
hospitable, and no one needs to carry supplies who travels through
their country, except in localities where they may have been
seduced to more selfish customs by intercourse with Portuguese
traders. Such a digression in the interest of Zulu reputation




336                    SHUPANGA.
will be pardoned, as it is of quite as much importance that we
have just impressions of the actors in any of the affairs of real
life in colonial regions as it is that we have a simple record of
incidents.
A single, one-storied house at Shupanga, occupying the prettiest site on the river, engrossed the attention of the expedition.
It is a stone house; there is a splendid sloping lawn in front
with a fine mango orchard at its southern end; the lawn extends
down to the water's edge, and the Zambesi, widening grandly,
flows softly by, and there are little green islands reposing on its
sunny, tranquil bosom. If you look northward, beyond the
house, there are-there were then-forests of tropical trees, and
beyond the forests the massive mountains of Morumbwa, towering amidst white clouds, and farther still distant hills are dimly
defined against the blue horizon. The surveying expedition of
Captain Owen rested at the "Shupanga house," in 1826, and
buried one of their number under a noble baobab tree. The
grave of an explorer, far away in a wilderness land, suggested
very solemn thoughts to the serious men and the devoted women who stood by it. They may have wondered whether it
would be so, but they did not'know that the shadow of that
baobab tree would yet become a doubly sacred spot to them;
they did not know that of their number there should be left
companion dust for that which years ago had been laid there
with sorrow and left in loneliness.
After a few days; which were improved in wooding up with
African ebony and lignum-vite, the expedition advanced toward
Tete. From Shupanga to Senna they suffered great annoyance
from the seeming conspiracy of sand and stupidity-sand in the
river and stupidity in the black pilot. This interesting individual was named John Scissors, a serf. Every now and then
he ran the "Ma Robert" aground. The inconvenience and delay.
were atoned for in some measure, for a time, by the ludicrous
simplicity of his aggrieved manner as he ventured the very unquestionable assertion, "Oh, this is not the way; it is back
yonder! "  But even the-charm of folly is easily exhausted, and
we find, it hard to laugh at stupidity which puts us to much
trouble, however grotesquely it may express itself, and it is no
wonder that the party felt that their dull Scissors was an unmit



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RECEPTION AT SENNA.                 339
igated affiction, to say the least of it. Besides this annoyance,
they had already found their precious steamer quite defective in
many respects. The furnaces were badly constructed, and she
moved along so slowly and heavily that the natives with their
canoes would pass easily by her, and looked back in wonder
and pity on the slow puffing "Asthmatic," as she came to be
called.
At Senna they received a most friendly reception.  They
were, however, under the necessity of landing at Nyamka, a
small hamlet of rocks six miles below, and walking up to the
village, as the steamer could not go up the channel along which
Senna stands. From the hamlet they walked along a narrow
winding path in Indian file, through a succession of gardens and
patches of thorny acacias. The clouds veiled the sun softly,
and the cool morning air seemed peculiarly fitted for the sweet,
strange songs which the little birds poured forth in their charming foreign accent. There were many natives passing to and
fro-the women with hoes going to their work, but the men all
carried spears or bows and arrows, except those who had old
Tower muskets. Senna looked no more inviting for the two
years of wear and neglect and oppression and war-a dull,
dilapidated place, where " one is sure to take fever the second
day."  But the presence of a single really generous and hospitable man, claiming the miserable village as his native place,
measurably redeemed it in the estimation of Englishmen who
had been trained to appreciate those nobler qualities which so
seldom distinguished the claimants of the country. Senhor H.
A. Ferraro's benevolence was unbounded. No stranger, however black, was turned away from his door hungry or weary.
He had long been the almoner of the people in time of famine.
There was found a bit of history in connection with him which
illustrates the Lisbon policy as hardly kinder to its own people
than to those whom they are taught to oppress. The father of'
Senhor Ferraro had been the Portuguese Governor of Senna,
and being a man of superior attainments and untarnished honor,
acquired by the most unquestionable methods very large possessions in land south of the village. The "home" government, asserting that it would never do for an individual to
possess more land than the crown of Portugal, took possession




340                ARRIVAL AT TETE.
of his estate and cut it up into small tracts and apportioned it
to settlers. The son, though very wealthy, held only an insignificant portion of his rightful estate.  This gentleman, in
common with other prominent Portuguese gentlemen of the
town, welcomed the expedition, and all of them freely complimented Dr. Livingstone on his discovery of the true mouth of
the noble river so near which they had spent their lives in
ignorance of the error which their government had ignorantly or
wilfully concealed.
From Senna the expedition ascended as far as Tete without
special incident-their object being to reach that spot as speedily
as possible-and anchored their craft in front of that frontier
village on the 8th of September. The Makololo were full of
joy at the return of their "father."  They hailed him with
expressions of unbounded delight.  Five of their head men
came on board the steamer and listened in quiet sorrow to the
story of poor Sekwebu's death. "Men die in any country,"
they said, and then told how thirty of their own number had
gone with the Baromo since they parted with Dr. Livingstone.
Two years had elapsed since that parting. They had waited
patiently and confidently for the return of their friend. They
had not been provided for by the Portuguese government, as
had been promised Dr. Livingstone, and their sufferings would
have been even more severe than they were but for the personal
kindness of Major Sicard. But the waiting was over now, and
they pressed about their tried friend with expressions of love
which cheered his heart. They quickly carried his goods to the
government house, so heartily tendered by the generous commandant, and left him for the time only when they were sure
that they could bestow no additional attention. There was a
wealth of trust and affection in their simple "good-night," and
the expression, "We will sleep to-night," more than repaid the
large-hearted, self-sacrificing friend of the race for all his toil
and anxiety in coming back to them.
All Africa, weary and neglected, was longing for repose.
It must have been a sweet thought that he was the pioneer
of that precious word which should give sweet sleep, rest of
spirit, to the millions of that neglected continent.




CHAPTER XVII.
THE KE BRABASA RAPIDS.
The Journey to the Kebrabasa-Kebrabasa Range-General AppearanceBreadth-Pressure of Water-Portuguese Ignorance-Banyai Impositions" Dreadful Rough" a Night-Camp Scenes-A Camp Story-The MorningClimbing Still-Sleep of Exhaustion-Makololo Distrust —Mount Morumbwa
-A  Perpetual Barrier-Return to Tete-Scenes in Tete-Superstition-The
Teaching of Nature-Holiness-Christmas in Africa-The Climax of Absurdities-The Rainy Season-The Portuguese Recourse-A Serious Matter-The
Help for Fever-The Shire.
IT will be remembered that in descending the Zambesi, in
1856, Dr. Livingstone turned southward in the neighborhood
of the hills, and only came to the river again at Tete. He had
not, therefore, seen the Kebrabasa rapids, and such were the
reports concerning them that he shared fully the curiosity of
his companions, and they resolved to take advantage of the
peculiarly favorable opportunity of the Zambesi being unusually
low to ascertain their character while uncovered by water.  As
far as Panda-Moqua, about forty miles above Tete, they sailed
along quite comfortably, and looked with admiration on the
splendidly-wooded hills which greeted the eye on either batk.
The rapids, which have derived their name-which signifies
"finish, or break the service "-from the difficulty experienced
in. carrying all articles of trade around them, over land, to
Chicova, are in the midst of the lofty Kebrabasa range, which
consists chiefly of conical hills covered with scraggy trees.
"This range crosses the Zambesi nearly at right angles, and
confines it withlin a narrow, rough, and rocky dell of about a
quarter of a mile in breadth, over which large masses of rock
are huddled in indescribable confusion.  The chief rock is
syenite, some portions of which have a beautiful blue tinge like
lapus lazuli diffused through them; others are gray.  Blocks of
granite also abound, of a pinkish tinge; and these, with metamorphic rocks, contorted, twisted, and thrown into every con341




342                 THE KEBRABASA.
ceivable position, afford a picture of dislocation or unconformability which would gladden a geological lecturer's heart; but at
high flood this rough channel is all smoothed over, and it then
conforms well with the river below it, which is half a mile wide.
In the dry season the stream runs at the bottom of a narrow
and deep groove, whose sides are polished and fluted by the
boiling action of the water in flood, like the rims of ancient
Eastern wells by the draw-ropes. The breadth of the groove is
often not more than from forty to sixty yards, and it has some
sharp turnings, double channels, and little cataracts ill it. The
masts of the'M/a Robert,' though some thirty feet high, did not
reach the level of the flood-channel above, and the man in the
chains sung out,'No bottom at ten fathoms.' Huge pot-holes,
as large as draw-wells, had been worn in the sides, and were so
deep that in some instances, when protected from the sun by
overhanging boulders, the water in them was quite cool. Some
of these holes had been worn right through, and only the side
next the rock remained; while the sides of the groove of the
flood-channel were polished as smooth as if they had gone
through granite-mills.  The pressure of the water must be
enormous to produce this polish. It had wedged round pebbles
into chinks and crannies of the rocks so firmly that, though
they looked quite loose, they could not be removed except with
a hammer. It is strange that the Portuguese had continued so
long in comparative ignorance of an object of so much interest
which was so near them. All the information which our friends
obtained from these remarkable colonists was that'three or
four detached rocks jutted out into the river at Kebrabasa,
which, though dangerous to the cumbersome native canoes,
could be easily passed by a steamer; and that if one or two of
these obstructions were blasted away by gunpowder there would
be no further difficulty."' But the painful exploration of several
miles convinced the party that they must prepare for more
serious work than they had anticipated; that, in fact, the mere
examination of the rapids was a more considerable task than
their removal had been supposed to be. They therefore returned to the boat and went down the river for fresh supplies.
When they cast anchor a second time at the foot of the hills,
they were prepared for a serious survey of the region. It was




BAINYAI IMPOSITIONS.               343
late in the afternoon of November 24th. They were independent of the surly tribes who, at even so short a distance, lived
along the banks and manifested an impudent contempt for the
Portuguese authority.  Canoe men never sleep in their canoes
at night, but build their fires on the shore, and the suspicions
of these dwellers were excited by the uncommon action of the
newcomers, and they hailed them with, "Why don't you come
on shore like other people?"  The Makololo, who felt as
independent as their interrogators, replied, " We are held
to the bottom with iron; you may see we are not like your
Bozunga."
It was no misfortune to be denied the company of these
Banyai. On their account as much as anything else Dr. Livingstone had felt it important to avoid the river, as he was
approaching Tete, in his former expedition. Their impositions
on travellers are frequently rather severe tests of even Christian
patience, and our travellers were glad to avoid them. It is
pleasant to give a present, but that pleasure the Banyai usually
deny to strangers by making it a fine, and demanding it in
such a supercilious way that only a sorely-cowed trader could
bear it.  They often refuse to touch what is offered-throw
it down and leave it-sneer at the trader's slaves, and refuse
a passage until the tribute is raised to the utmost extent of his
means.
The morning came, clear and pleasant, and the party enjoyed
for a time quite a delightful shade from  the hills on their
right; " but before long the path grew frightfully rough, and
the hills no longer shielded them from the blazing sun." The
assurances of the guide that they were in " the way" seemed
like mockery; the thought of a path in connection with the
patches of yielding sand and the huge rocks over which they
were clambering so painfully was ridiculous; the rocks are dislocated and twisted in every direction; it was " confusion worse
confounded;" it may have seemed to them confounded confusion.
The first day's march did not exceed four miles! and all hands
were thoroughly satisfied with themselves, and willing to stop
when the hour to halt arrived.
A few inhabitants, belonging to a small tribe called Badema,
had found homes in this singularly inhospitable region, and




344               NIGHT IN THE HILLS.
their industry had converted the few available hollows into
miniature corn and cotton fields, and they have the art of growing their " mapisa (holcus sorgum) " on the steep slopes of the
mountains. The deep ravines are brought into service as traps
for zebras, antelopes and other animals, by stretching strong
nets made of baobab bark across their narrow entrances. Being
only the remnant of a tribe, they are greatly oppressed by their
stronger neighbors, and these industrious people need to call in
strategy to aid them in keeping what they have, and they have
fallen upon the plan of converting the most hidden cavities of
the rocks into stone houses; and having thus eluded the rapacity of their human foes they confide in the bitter bark in which
they wrap their treasures to protect them against the fastidious
mice and monkeys, who would but for this protection fatten on
their extremity.  When the travellers entered their domains
they had no hesitation in saying very positively that they had
nothing, and the scanty store to be found in their homes seemed
to confirm  their statement. There was no objection made to
their sleeping under the trees, and neither men nor beasts disturbed the quiet of their slumbers, though there were as villanous beasts about them as there are anywhere. Just across the
river from them, a leopard boldly assailed a company of natives
sitting together in the evening and killed one of their number.
Such an occurrence in one's immediate neighborhood could but
suggest serious thoughts, and naturally seasoned their conversation more or less with the "leopard."  They knew very well
that this cruel and cunning enemy might be quite near them;
and though they were not timid men, those of them at least who
were unused to African experiences should not account themselves slandered if we improve the opportunity to guess that
they were as deeply interested in Isaiah xi. 6 as certain Teutonic
travellers when half drowned by an African rain-storm were in
Genesis ix. 11, 16. While the assaults of wild animals on the
men themselves, in whom we are more interested, seem to give
us a delight which we are ashamed to confess, as is proven by
our loss of interest in a hero who is not half killed now and then,
it ought to be considered almost as Christian to be interested
in the combats of these ferocious disputants of forest rights with
each other. We do not need to carry the reader far from the












A CAMP-FIRE STORY.                 347
very spot where the weary explorers are sleeping to introduce
him to the leopard in the full indulgence of his most belligerent
ferocity. The narrators of the story were making painful progress
along what they facetiously tried to call a road, in the midst of
the most luxurious vegetation, when they were startled by a
most extraordinary noise proceeding from a little glade on their
right. The singular sound resembled the confused grunting of
a pig, and the suppressed growling of a tiger, and the worrying
noise of a dog, interrupted with loud squeakings, snarlings and
sudden roars; besides which they could hear a tearing and
struggling, a rustling of the grass and a crackling of the twigs,
as though some large animals were rolling and tumbling about
in a violent manner. Guns in hand, the excited party crept
stealthily along the little glade, until at its termination, amidst
an almost impenetrable walling in and arching over of umbrageous vegetation, they saw two large animals struggling and
plunging, and tearing each other, and rolling over and over,
locked together in deadly combat.'The approach of the strangers
was unnoticed by the enraged combatants, which seemed oblivious of all else in their fierce conflict. One of these furious
animals was soon discovered to be a large leopard; all that they
could fix distinctly of the other was a long horn-shaped head,
tremendous claws, a huge bushy tail and a coat of shaggy fur.
The fury of the contest was dreadful, and they stood riveted
in wonder; before long, however, it was apparent that whatever
his antagonist was the leopard must prove victorious; and as
his huge fangs presently became firmly fixed in the other's throat
he succeeded in pinioning him fast to the ground. They saw
that this strange combat had been between a leopard and a
powerful ant-bear; and even while the witnesses levelled their
rifles in cautious consideration of themselves, they were constrained to admire the splendid dignity with which the brute
arose above his vanquished foe and looked about him, and they
almost grieved to mingle with the triumphant roar which resounded through the forests the harsher and deadlier voices of
their trusty rifles.
But not only were stories of ferocious beasts incorporated with
star-gazing, geographical discussions, and geological examinations into the camp-fire life of the party in which such varied




348                  THE MO1RNING.
characters were associated: there were strange stories of strange
people: of a strange race of men only three feet high, whom the
native narrator " had seenm" in the interior of the continent;
people with horns growing out of their heads, and dwelling in a
great town where there was plenty of food; stories stoutly maintained against the scorn of the Makololo, who counted their own
manly proportions proof conclusive that the interior produced
better men than dwarfs. But all places and times are prolific
of men who are either endowed with a singular facility of impersonation or strongly impressed with a supposed identity with
the heroes of those fabulous stories which have beguiled the
leisure of men for ages; and it may be supposed an honest mistake or an innocent vanity in the poor slave of a Portuguese
master to confound himself with the hero of adventures older
in the traditions of Africa than the time of Herodotus.
The morning invariably brought realities which chased away
the pleasantest dreams, and convinced them if not of the truth
certainly of the possibility of the strangest adventures. At one
time the whole party were fording a tributary of the Zambesi,
holding their guns and baggage above their heads and thoroughly
soaked to their arm-pits, doubting whether they could produce
a satisfactory argument against the importunities of a hungry
crocodile, should one propose to dine on white man, just once.
Another time they were climbing an almost scorching rock under
the unrelenting sunrays, or watching one of their number crawling along the glossy black rocks toward a sleeping hippopotamus.
At length they reached the foot of Chipereziwa, whose perpendicular rocky sides, clothed with many-colored lichens, their
Portuguese companions assured them marked the last obstructions to navigation. But they had hardly commenced their
backward journey, thinking over what they had seen and more
impressed with the difficulty than dignity of Kebrabasa, when
two natives, who came to their camp at night, assured them
that there was still in front of them a cataract called Morumbwa.
Drs. Livingstone and Kirk immediately decided to take with
them three of the Makololo and go forward until they settled
the question for themselves, and they were ever afterward willing
to confess that it was as tough a bit of travel as they ever had
in Africa. After some painful marching the Badema guides re



SLEEP OF EXHAUSTION.                349
fused to go further; " the Banyai," they said, "would be angry
if they showed white men the country; and there was besides
no practicable approach to the spot, neither elephant, nor hippopotamus, nor even a crocodile could reach the cataract."  The
slopes of the mountains on each side of the river, now not three
hundred yards wide, and without the flattish flood-channel and
groove, were more than three thousand feet from the sky-line
down, and were covered either with dense thornbush or huge
black boulders; this deep trough-like shape caused the sun's rays
to converge as into a focus, making the surface so hot that the
soles of the feet of the Makololo became blistered. Around,
and up and down, the party clambered among these heated
blocks, at a pace not exceeding a mile an hour; the strain upon
the muscles in jumping from  crag to boulder, and wriggling
round projections, took an enormous deal out of them, and they
were often glad to cower in the shadow formed by one rock
overhanging and resting on another; the shelter induced the:peculiarly strong and overpowering inclination to sleep which
too much sun sometimes causes. This sleep is curative of what
may be incipient sunstroke; in its first gentle touches it caused
the dream to flit over the boiling brain that they had become
lunatics and had been sworn in as members of the Alpine Club;
and then it became so heavy that it made them feel as if a portion of existence had been cut out from their lives. The sun
is excessively hot, and feels sharp in Africa; but, probably from
the greater dryness of the atmosphere, we never heard of a single
case of sunstroke, so common in India. The Makololo told
Dr. Livingstone they " always thought he had a heart, but now
they believed he had none," and tried to persuade Dr. Kirk to
return, on the ground that it must be evident that, in attempting to go.where no living foot could tread, his leader had given
unmistakable signs of having gone mad. All their efforts of
persuasion, however, were lost upon Dr. Kirk, as he had not
yet learned their language, and his leader knowing his companion to be equally anxious with himself to solve the problem
of the navigableness of Kebrabasa, was not at pains to enlighten
him. At one part a bare mountain spur barred the way, and
had to be surmounted by a perilous and circuitous route, alon(r
which the crags were so hot that it was scarcely possible for the
18




350                MOUNsT MORUMBnwA.
hand to hold on long enough to ensure safety in the passage;
and had the foremost of the party lost his hold he would have
hurled all behind him into the river at the foot of the promontory; yet in this wild hot region, as they descended again to the
river, they met a fisherman casting his hand-net into the boiling
eddies, and he pointed out the cataract of Morumbwa; within
an hour they were trying to measure it from an overhanging
rock, at a height of about one hundred feet. When you stand
facing the cataract, on the north bank, you see that it is situated
in a sudden bend of the river, which is flowing in a short curve;
the river above it is jammed between two mountains in a channel
with perpendicular sides, and less than fifty yards wide; one or
two masses of rock jut out, and then there is a sloping fall of
perhaps twenty feet in a distance of thirty yards. It would stop
all navigation, except during the highest floods; the rocks
showed that the water then rises upwards of eighty feet perpendicularly.
Still keeping the position facing the cataract, on its right side
rises Mount Morumbwa, from two thousand to three thousand
feet high, which gives the name to the spot. On the left of the
cataract stands a noticeable mountain which may be called onionshaped, for it is partly conical, and a large concave flake has
peeled off, as granite often does, and left a broad, smooth, convex
face as if it were an enormous bulb. These two mountains extend their bases northwards about half a mile, and the river in
that distance, still very narrow, is smooth, with a few detached
rocks standing out from its bed. They climbed as high up the
base of Mount Morumbwa, which touches the cataract, as they
required. The rocks were all water-worn and smooth, with
huge pot-holes, even at one hundred feet above low water.
When, at a later period, they climbed up the northwestern base
of this same mountain, the familiar face of the onion-shaped one
opposite was at once recognized; one point of view on the talus
of Mount Morumbwa was not more than seven or eight hundred
yards distant from the other, and they then completed the survey
of Kebrabasa from end to end.
They did not attempt to return by the way they came, but
scaled the slope of the mountain on the north. It took them
three hours' hard labor in cutting their way up through the




A PERPETUAL BARRIER.                 351
dense thornbush which covered the ascent.  The face of the slope
was often about an angle of seventy degrees, yet their guide,
Shokumbenla, whose hard, horny soles, resembling those of
elephants, showed that he was accustomed to this rough and hot
work, carried a pot of water for them nearly all the way up.
They slept that night at a well in a tufaceous rock on the northwest of Chipereziwa, and never was sleep more sweet.
From what they had seen and felt they were satisfied that
I(ebrabasa must always form a barrier to navigation at the
ordinary low water of the river; but the rise of the water in this
gorge being as much as eighty feet perpendicularly, it was considered probable that a steamer might be taken up at high flood,
when all the rapids are smoothed over, to run on the upper
Zambesi. The most formidable cataract in it, Morumbwa, having only about twenty feet of fall, in a distance of thirty yards,
it, was reasonable to suppose that it must entirely disappear
when the water stands eighty feet higher. They found current
stories which confirmed their impressions of the impossibility of
navigation in low water and encouraging their hope of ascending safely in flood time. One story goes that once on a time a
Portuguese named Jose Pedra-by the natives called Nyamatimbira-chief, or capitao mor, of Zumbo, a man of large enterprise and small humanity-being anxious to ascertain if Kebrabasa could be navigated, made two slaves fast to a canoe, and
launched it from Chicova into Kebrabasa, in order to see if it
would come out at the other end.  As neither slaves nor canoe
ever appeared again, his excellency concluded that Kebrabasa
was unnavigable. There is another of a trader who had a
large canoe swept away by a sudden rise of the river, and it was
found without damage below. But the most satisfactory information was that of a trustworthy old man, who asserted that
in flood all Kebrabasa became quite smooth, and he had often
seen it so.
Having satisfied themselves, as far as possible at the time,
concerning the famous rapids, the party returned to Tete, and,
in accordance with the requirements of their commission, gave
themselves up to various examinations into the agricultural and
mineral resources of the country, and such observations of the
customs of the people, and climate, etc., as they had opportunity.




352                 SCENES IN TETE.
The impressions which Dr. Livingstone had received during
his former expedition, as to the policy of the Portuguese and
their general influence on the natives, were not materially
altered. The religious ideas of these nominal representatives of
a Christian civilization were unquestionably anything but helpful to a people already sadly given to superstition. Neither
Dr. Livingstone nor any of his associates were inclined to regard
with disrespect the rites or ceremonies of any creed, but they
were constrained to condemn most unqualifiedly the encouragement of native ignorance and superstition, which they could not
help observing in even the worship of those who ought to have
felt their responsibility in some degree for the intellectual and
moral condition of the degraded creatures among whom they
were the recognized representatives of civilization. As an illustration of the order of things which prevailed, it is mentioned,
that, during the prevalence of a " drought, in 1858, a neighboring chief got up a performance, with divers ceremonies and
incantations, to bring rain, but it would not come.  The
Goanese padre of Tete, to satisfy his compatriots, appointed a
procession and prayers in honor of Saint Antonio for the same
purpose. The first attempt did not answer, but on the second
occasion, arranged to come off after the new moon appeared, a
grand procession in the saint's honor ended in so much rain
that the roof of the Residencia gave way; Saint Antonio's
image was decorated the following week with a golden coronal
worth ~22, for sending the long-delayed and much-needed rain.
So great was the irreverence manifested on this occasion-the
kneeling worshippers laughing and joking between the responses,
not even ceasing their grins when uttering,'Ora pro nobis'that they could not help believing that if, like the natives, they
had faith in rain making, they had faith in nothing else."  Indeed, they were convinced that, instead of scattering the darkness which they found hovering over the mind of the African,
the native Portuguese had themselves become the victims of
that darkness, and were hardly less the slaves of idle fancies
than their sable subjects. Even in the most matter-of-fact
afiairs of life they were dragging the degrading chains of superstition. They would not plant coffee because they believed
that he who did so would never be happy afterward. And Dr.




THE TEACHING OF NATURE.               353
Livingstone was informed that shortly after his departure for
Kebrabasa, a little rise having occurred in the river, and the
waters becoming turbid, a native Portuguese gentleman came
to the commander, and with a grave countenance expressed his
fear that "that Englishmaln was doing something to the river."
And while he was at Tete a captain of infantry was sent a pris.oner to Mozambique for administering the muave, or ordeal,
and for putting suspected persons to death on that evidence
alone. It was hardly surprising that under such influences the
natives who were in contact with white people seemed, as indeed
they were, more ignorant and degraded than those on whom no
ray from the civilized worl(l had ever fallen. The amazing
fertility of the minds of these doubly unfortunate beings in superstitions was not only an occasion of sorrowful reflections and
anxious thought, and not only an almost insurmountable barrier
in the way of their conversion; it demanded the most careful
vigilance on the part of strangers to their ideas, who desired to
avoid giving offence, as certain members of the expedition realized when they found, on one occasion, that they had gravely
offended the great crocodile school of medicine by shooting one
of those huge reptiles as it lay basking in the sun on a sandbank near the village. Nature alone has dealt kindly with
these degraded beings. God made nature; it is the shadowy
expression of God. It does not teach distinctly, but it teaches
truly; and nowhere is its language more beautiful than in
Africa; and it is an inspiration for Christlan zeal in the work of
giving the tribes of that unhappy land to know, that even in
the depths of their ignorance, and under the influence of the
most corrupting institutions, and the victims of most deliberate
cruelty, there are those among these tribes who are not insensible to the charms of nature. There could hardly have been a
more beautiful answer given than that which one of the Bechuanas gave in explanation of the meaning of their word " boilsefaho," "'holiness."  He said: "When copious showers have
descended in the night, and all the earth and leaves and cattle
are washed clean, and the sun rising shows a drop of dew on
every blade of grass, and the air breathes fresh, that is holiness."
The most charming season, if one may be preferred, is toward
the end of summer, when the rains are becoming frequent and




354               CHRISTMAS IN AFRICA.
vegetation is resuming its warm coat of life, whose varied colors
distinguish its singular beauty. At that season the air becomes
clear, inviting the most extended gaze, as if all things were
proudly eager for display.  "The young foliage of several
trees, more especially on the highlands, comes out brown, pale
red, or pink, like the hues of autumnal leaves in England.; and
as the leaves increase in size they change to a pleasant fresh
light green; bright white, scarlet, pink, and yellow flowers are
everywhere; and some few of dark crimson, like those of the
kigelia, give warmth of coloring to Nature's garden.  Many
trees, such as the scarlet erythrina, attract the eye by the beauty
of their blossoms. The white, full bloom of the baobab, coming
at times before the rains, and the small and delicate flowers of
other trees, grouped into rich clusters, deck the forest. Myriads
of wild bees are busy from morning till night.  Some of the
acacias possess a peculiar attraction for one species of beetle;
while the palm allures others to congregate on its ample leaves.
Insects of all sorts are now in full force; brilliant butterflies flit
from flower to flower, and, with the charming little sun-birds,
which represent the humming-birds of America and the West
Indies, never seem to tire. Multitudes of ants are hard at work
hunting for food, or bearing it home in triumph.  The winter
birds of passage, such as the yellow wagtail and blue drongo
shrikes, have all gone, and other kinds have come; the brown
kite with his piping like a boatswain's whistle, the spotted
cuckoo with a call like'pula,' and the roller and horn-bill with
their loud high notes, are occasionally distinctly heard, though
generally this harsher music is half. drowned in the volume of
sweet sounds poured forth from many a throbbing throat, which
makes an African Christmas seem like an English May."  No
wonder it seemed strange to the Englishmen, who had always
hailed its happy eve wrapped in their fleecy robes, or beside the
blazing family fire, or amid/t the jingling of merry bells and
the ringing of merrier laughter, to have the day they loved so
much appear dressed so brightly in gayest colors; the singing
birds and springing corn and flowering plains were in the place
of the mantle of snow the day had always worn when it came
with its gifts and joys to them  in England.  But it was not a
new thing for men to think that everything is contrary in




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THE RAINY SEASON.                   357
Africa. Herodotus only expressed the climax of its absurdities,
in his view, when he wrote of the hidden land, "There wool
grows on the heads of men and hair on the backs of sheep."
Dr. Kirk divided the year in Africa into three seasons —the cold
period, lasting through May, June and July; the hot, prevailing through August, September and October; and the wet,
which extends through the remaining months.
"The rainy season of Tete differs a little from  that of some
of the other intertropical regions; the quantity of rain-fall being
considerably less. It begins in November and ends in April.
During our first season in that place, only a little over nineteen
inches of rain fell. In an average year, and when the crops
are good, the fall amounts to about thirty-five inches.  On
many days it does not rain at all, and rarely is it wet all day;
some days have merely a passing shower, preceded and followed
by. hot sunshine; occasionally aln;interval of a week, or even a
fortnight, passes without a drop of rain, and then the crops
suffer from the sun. These partial droughts happen in December and January. The heat appears to increase to a certain
point in the different latitudes so as to necessitate a change, by
some law similar to that which regulates the intense cold in
other countries.  The Zambesi is in flood twice in the course of
the year; the first flood, a partial one, attains its greatest height
about the end of December or beginning of January; the
second, and greatest, occurs after the river inundates the interior,
in a manner similar to the overflow of the Nile, this rise not
taking place at Tete until March. The Portuguese say that the
greatest height which the March floods attain is thirty feet at
Tete, and this happens only about every fourth year; their
observations, however, have never been very accurate on anything but ivory, and they have in this trusted entirely to
memory."The discoveries of Dr. Livingstone never sustained so great a
rise. It rises suddenly, and with the first flood dashes along
at four knots an hour, but gradually spreads over the surrounding country, and as it extends in breadth resumes its usual
velocity. Ordinarily the water of the river is singularly pure,
and exhibits not the slightest discoloration, except in the floods.
The former reports of Dr. Livingstone were abundantly con



358            "GOLD! GOLD! GOLD! GOLD!"
firmed by the members of the expedition, as to the agricultural
possibilities of the soil. They had brought some cotton seed
with them to Africa, but found that, besides the fact that there
was already a superior grade of cotton in the country, there was
no hope of inspiring the Portuguese natives with any ideas
above block ivory and gold dust.
"Gold! gold! gold! gold!
Bright and yellow, hard and cold;
Molten, graven, hammered and rolled;
Heavy to get and light to hold;
Hoarded, bartered, bought and sold;
Stolen, borrowed, squandered, doled;
Spurned by the young, but hugged by the old
To the Very verge of the church-yard mould;
Price of many a crime untold;
Gold! gold! gold! gold! "
Had brought them to this shore.
The authorities at Lisbon, like the authorities everywhere,
had watched the tantalizing ignis fatuus of the terra incognita
which all tradition pointed to, until their fancies, overmastered
by their desires, seemed to be the conclusions of philosophy and
the testimony of history, and they hastened to possess the longlost Ophir in eastern Africa, and, disappointed more by their
own folly and idleness than by the resources of the country
which they were neglecting, they were attempting to compensate themselves for the  disappointment by converting  the
precious block ivory into gold. But gold is gold, and Portugal
found a world full of sympathy for her in the recourse of her
cdisapIpointment.  There was no justification of this recourse.
Gold was unquestionably plenty.  They fell into the snare of
those who make haste to be rich, and the weakness and contempt to which their colony was now reduced was only the
rebuke of Providence.  The gold fields had been forfeited, and
their treasures remain secure still to reward a loftier wisdom
and truer philanthropy.
Of course the newcomers did not think of enjoying the full
benefits of African life, or counting themselves to have a claim
on all its treasures of things, new and old, before they had
passed through the ordeal which may as well be considered-the
initiatory ceremony of the continent.  One of the members of
the expedition has written on this inspiring theme with a




A SERIOUS MATTER.                   359
master skill.  More particularly was he impressed with the
singular effects of this rite of the continent on the minds of
those who were called on to submit to it. His owvn eloquent
words, pervaded by a depth of feeling which leaves little doubt
of the teacher at whose feet he received his impressions, are as
follows:
"Cheerfulness vanishes, and the whole mental horizon is
overcast with black clouds of gloom and sadness.  The liveliest
joke cannot provoke even the sernblance of a smile. The countenance is grave, the eyes suffused, and the few utterances are
made in the piping voice of a wailing infant. An irritable
temper is often the first symptom of approaching fever. At
such times a man feels very much like a fool, if he does not act
like one. Nothing is right, nothing pleases the fever-stricken
victim. He is peevish, prone to find fault and to contradict,
and think himself insulted, and is exactly what an Irish naval
surgeon before a court-martial defined a drunken man to be:'a man unfit for society.' If a party were all soaked full of
malaria at once, the life of the leader of the expedition would be
made a burden to him.  One might come with lengthened
visage, and urge as a good reason for his despair, if further
progress were attempted, that'he had broken the photograph
of his wife;' another,'that his proper position was unjustly
withheld because special search was not directed towards "the
ten lost tribes."' It is dangerous to rally such a one, for the
irate companion may quote Scripture, and point to their habitat'beyond the rivers of Ethiopia.'  When a man begins to feel
that everything is meant to his prejudice, he either takes a dose
of'rousers,' or writes to the newspapers, according to the
amount of sense with which nature has endowed him."
It is, however, the deliberate testimony of Dr. Livingstone,
that there is a reliable preventative against even African fever,
to be found in " plenty of interesting work and abundance of
wholesome food to eat," a prescription which may not be despised in any country.
"To a man well housed," says he, "and clothed, who enjoys
these advantages, the fever at Tete will not prove a more formidable enemy than a common cold; but let one of these be
wanting-let him be indolent, or guilty of excesses in eating or




360              LOOKING TO THE SHIRE.
drinking, or have poor, scanty fare-and the fever will probably become a more serious matter. It is of a milder type at
Tete than at Quilimane or on the low sea-coast; and, as in this
part of Africa one is as liable to fever as to colds in England, it
would be advisable for strangers always to hasten from the coast
to the higher lands, in order that when the seizure does take
place, it may be of the mildest type. This having been pointed
out by Dr. Kirk, the Portuguese authorities afterwards took the
hint, and sent the next detachment of soldiers at once up to
Tete. It consisted.of eighty men, and in spite of the irregularities committed, most of them being of the class termed'incorrigibles,' in three years only ten died, and but five of fever."
With the opening of the new year the attention of the expedition was fixed upon the Shire, whose confluence with the
Zambesi may be seen about a hundred miles from the sea. The
Portuguese heard of their plans for ascending this stream with
dismay; it was associated in their minds with all that was
difficult and perilous. They could give no information whatever about it, although it was remembered that years before a
Portuguese vessel had attempted to ascend it. The explanation
of the failure must either be found in, or was concealed by, the
fabulous amount of gigantic duck-weed which was reported to
have been found on its surface. There were " sub rosa" whisperings which suggested some uncertainty whether the duckweed story was not invented to conceal the retreat of the
Portuguese before the poisoned arrows of the natives. However
that may be, the residents of Tete could not have been hired to
undertake a mission up the Shire. "Our government," said
one commandant to Dr. Livingstone, "has sent orders to assist
and protect you; but you go where we dare not follow, and how
can we protect you? " Nothing remained to be done in another
direction, as they had decided to wait for a stronger boat before
attempting to force the Kebrabasa rapids, being satisfied that
the " MIa Robert" was unequal to the undertaking. Therefore
they set out in January, 1859, on their first trip up the Shire.




CHAPTER XVIII.
THE SHIRE.
Mouth of the Shire-Difficulties Vanish —" Englishman "-Shire Valley-African Swamp-Livingstone's Art-Mount Morambala-Mountain VillageChikanda-Two Pythons-Pursued by a Buffalo-The Steamer-A Sinking
Ship - No Note of Time — The Musician — Hippopotamus Traps-Shire.Marshes-Water-fowl-Kites and Vultures-Forest of Palm Trees-Islands of
the Shire-An Unhappy Chief-Village of Chibisa-Chibisa —Lake ShirwaSympathy of Fools-Discovery of Lake Shirwa —Return to the Ship-Expedition to Lake Nyassa-Mianganja Hills-Village of Chilimba-Thd Manganja
People-Agriculture-Cotton —Manufactures-Iron Ore-Native Trade-The
Upper Lip Ring-Beer Drinking-Drunken Villages-Love of Home-The
AMuave Again-Faith-Nyassa Discovered-Return to Tete.
SAILING down the Zambesi amidst scenes which are always
strange and wonderful to those whose imaginations have only
had the training of northern climes, passing many points which
they could not call familiar, though they were not new to them,
the expedition turned into the river whose bar of duck-weed or
hedge of poisoned arrows had kept the secret of its wealth and
wonders so securely against the feebleness and irresolution of
the Portuguese, and were pleased to find deeper though narrower water than they had left.
On their right hand, not far from the river, stood the stockade
of Mariano, one of those villanous half-caste marauders whose
unscrupulous barbarity justified the native saying that "God
made the African and God made the white man, but the devil
made the half-castes," a conclusion which the most zealous
defender of Divine sovereignty, who has had experience with
them, does not feel called on to question. The residence of this
man may go far toward explaining the suspicion with which the
natives under Tingane had regarded all approaches from the
Zambesi.  Their poisoned arrows were in constant demand in
protecting themselves from  the slave-yoke which he handled
with a cruelty which must have been very exhilarating to his
supposed creator.  And the knowledge that he represented a
361




362               DIFFICULTIES VANISH.
system introduced by white men naturally led the tribes to associate every lighter shade than their own dark skins with the
evils which they knew attended the dominion of the stockade.
It was natural enough, then, for these people to appear in force
on the border of their territory to resist the approaches of the
"puffing and blowing" monster that the "Old Asthmatic"
unquestionably seemed to them to be. They may have thought
that the resolute creator had taken in hand to do in person the
work which his faithful creature had failed to accomplish, and
it was time for them to put forth all their prowess if they would
still be free. Dr. Livingstone did not hesitate to go on shore
at their villages and explain to these people, whose attitude
would have intimidated an ordinary man, the purposes of the
expedition. The name of Englishman possessed itself a charm
for them, and sustained by the assurance that they desired no
slaves, but only to open a way by which their countrymen
might come to purchase cotton, ivory, corn, etc., went far
toward allaying their apprehensions and winning their friendship. The object, being to promote industry and commerce,
seemed quite reasonable, and the notorious proclivity of the
race to all sorts of trade and barter aided the argument no
little. There was found also a general belief in a Supreme
Being and in the continued existence of departed spirits; and
there was no difficulty in obtaining their attention to "the
Book" which aided so muclh the designs of friendliness everywhere. Such methods of dealing with them were as strange to
these rude men as was the tremendous craft which brought
them, and the poisoned arrows became as harmless as the floating duckweed.
The Lower Shire flows through a valley varying in breadth
from ten to twenty miles-an exceedingly low and swampy
region; just such a country as needs to be seen at all seasons of
the year. A tropical swamp, if seen only when scorched and
withered by the rays of a sun whose burning brilliancy almost
justifies the awe with which it inspires Eastern worshippers,
may appear desolate and forsaken, and suggest serious thoughts
of the latter day. If in the worse season still, when the ground
is drying and the mercury is gradually rising in the glass you
carry, then there may seem to be flitting everywhere most




A TROPICAL SWAMP.                  363
dreadful torturers, and the pulse will engage the attention above
all possible charms of external nature. But when the frequent
rains refresh all things, and cloudy canopies are often spread
over trees and flowers, and the sun seems resting from its ire,
then the wealth of foliage and flowers and fruits, the melody of
birds whose various hues present a museum of colors, and the
lifefulness of every creeping, swimmlllling, crawling, climbing,
leaping and strolling thing, from ants to elephants, rivals the
most wonderful fancies which are wrought into the primitive
abode of man. Thus we may appeal to the seasons for the
explanation of the difference between the pleasant pictures
drawn by Dr. Livingstone and the mournful, wail-like language of Mr. Rowley, who could only see "swamp, swamp,
swamp —reeking, festering, rotting, malaria-pregnant swamp."
It is very much pleasanter to settle the question between two
men by the sun and clouds, than by bringing the " liver" into
it. Indeed, one of the special charms by which Dr. Livingstone secured the attention and deepened the interest continually
with which the eyes of the world followed him in his wanderings was his capacity to find pleasant things as well as painful
ones. H-e enables us to look on the world as it is. He did not
hide the fact that there were ills in Africa. The man would be
a "C natural" indeed who should dream of ease and luxury with
his narrative in hand. But he did not fail to observe the good
for which men might dare to confront the ill. If a man must
scorch with fever, why should he not see a flower?  If he must
encounter suspicion and sometimes be in peril of his life, why
should he not record the kindness shown himn and observe the
beauties which no blemishes should conceal, the excellencies of
character which divide dominion with what we hate?
The object of Dr. Livingstone, as a man and as a representative of the British government, was not only to explore the
river and examine the country; that alone would have been an
idle enterprise, and unworthy of his Christian zeal and of the
English name.  He was commissioned also to engage the
friendly regard of the tribes, and cultivate such an acquaintance
with them as might facilitate any subsequent enterprises of
church or state in their midst. He needed, therefore, to be
exceedingly careful that, with so large and varied a company as




364                MOUNT MOORAMBALA.
lie carried, nothing should be done which might frustrate his
design. The anxious throngs who lined the banks of the river,
gazing on the strange " canoe " full of strange people passing by
them, were ignorant and degraded according to our standard of
intelligence and dignity; but they were the people whose elevation it was the object of the expedition to promote.
The valley is walled on either side by beautiful hills, and for
twenty miles those on their right hand were quite near. Then
they came to Morambala, "the lofty watch-tower "-a detached
mountain only five hundred yards from the river-which rises
four thousand feet above the sea. The bold, precipitous front,
which cast its morning shadows toward the Shire, cherished a
charming vegetation, but repelled all thought of ascent by
clumsier creatures than the monkeys which played at hide and
seek from top to bottom, calling away attention from the singular-looking horn-bill, whose dreaded death is believed to afflict
the whole land with cold, the lumbering rhinoceros, and beautifull racing antelopes, by their queer capers. Surely if men are
sprung from monkeys the most clownish is nearest in the line.
Their incessant gambolling and chattering attract the attention
even of the natives, who, despite new grudges they nearly
always owe them on account of their plundered gardens and
fields, cannot resist the fascination of their comical eccentricities.
The southern end of the mountain, seen from a distance, has
a fine gradual slope, and half way up a small village was peeping out of the foliage. The atmosphere, as some of the party
ascended the mountain, was found becoming delightfully pure
and bracing, and the people of the village received them kindly.
The summit of the mountain was covered with a growth entirely
unlike what they had seen in the valley. There were orange,
lemon, and some pineapple trees, though the latter had been
planted there. But these happy and friendly residents of the
summit, about which friendly clouds rested when all the plain
was scorched, cherishing the choicest fruits, before the later visits
of Livingstone to their homes, had become the victims of Mariano, and had been nearly all carried away from their happy
freedom. God knows whether they fell under his cruelties or
are dragging out a weary bondage in some far-away land. Yes,
God knows, and will not forget their history nor despise their
cries.




'AC ~ T I(I
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MONKllMlliI~%'I EYS IN THEI  ELEMEN~RT (page 294T








THE SHIRE VALLEY.                 367
Looking from Morambala across the tongue of land which
lies between the Shire and the Zambesi, there were seen a few
clumps of palm and acacia trees, and herds of game which might
have tempted Nimrod to pitch his tent there in contentment.
Near the northern base there was bubbling up a little boiling
fountain ready for eggs or meats, and capable of doing its work
thoroughly enough, to the sorrow of such unlucky creatures as
chanced to select it for their bath.
Beyond Morambala the Shire comes winding through an
extensive marsh. For many miles to the north a broad sea of
fresh green grass extends, and is so level that it might be used
for taking the meridian altitude of the sun. Ten or fifteen miles
north of Morambala stands the dome-shaped mountain Makanga,
or Chi-kanda; several others with granitic-looking peaks stretch
away to the north, and form the eastern boundary of the valley;
another range, but of metamorpthic rocks, commencing opposite
Senna, bounds the valley on theawest. After steaming through
a portion of this marsh, they came to a broad belt of palm and
other trees, crossing the fine plain on the right bank. Marks
of large game were abundant. Elephants had been feeding on
the palm nuts, which have a pleasant, fruity taste, and are used
as food by man. Two pythons were observed coiled together
among the branches of a large tree, and were both shot. The
larger of the two, a female, was ten feet long. They are harmless, and said to be good eating. The Makololo having set fire
to the grass where they were cutting wood, a solitary buffalo
rushed out of the conflagration, and made a furious charge at
an active young fellow named Mantlanyane. Never did his
fleet limbs serve him better than during the few seconds of his
fearful flight before the maddened animal. When he reached
the bank, and sprang into the river, the infuriated beast was
scarcely six feet behind him. Towards evening, after the day's
labor in wood-cutting was over, some of the men went fishing.
They followed the common African custom  of agitating the
water, by giving it a few sharp strokes with the top of the
fishing-rod, immediately after throwing in the line, to attract
the attention of the fish to the bait. Having caught nothing,
the reason assigned was the same as the reader would be likely
to give under like circumstances, namely, that "the wind made




368                 "LAKE OF MUD."9
the fish cold, and they would not bite."  Many gardens of
maize, pumpkins and tobacco fringed the marshy banks, belonging to natives of the hills, who come down in the dry
season, and raise a crop on parts at other times flooded. While
the crops are growing, large quantities of fish are caught,
chiefly Clarias capensis and Mugil Africanus; they are dried
for sale or for future consumption.
Farther up, they passed a deep stream about thirty yards
wide, flowing in from a body of open water several miles broad.
Numbers of men were busy at different parts of it, filling their
canoes with the lotus root, called Nyika, which, when boiled or
roasted, resembles our chestnuts, and is extensively used in
Africa as food. Out of this lagoon, and by this stream, the
chief part of the duckweed of the Shire flows. The lagoon
itself is called Nyanja ea Motope (Lake of Mud). It is also
named Nyanja Pangono (Little Lake), while the elephant
marsh goes by the name of Nyanja Mukulu (Great Lake). It
is evident from the shore line still to be observed on the adjacent hills, that in ancient times these were really lakes, and the
traditional names thus preserved are only another evidence of
the general desiccation which Africa has undergone. No one
would believe that beyond these little and great Nyanjas Portuguese geographical knowledge never extended.  But the
Viscount Sa da Bandeira, in an official letter to the GovernorGeneral of Mozambique, in his patriotic anxiety to prove that
Dr. Livingstone did not discover Lake Nyassa, quotes as the
only information the ancient archives of Lisbon can disclose,
that the people of Senna held commercial intercourse with the
people on Morambala, and of course, as he avers, must have
sailed into the little and great marshes or Nyanjas referred to
above. No wonder that assumption exhibiting at once so much
falseness and ignorance was rather a strain on the longsuffering
of the man who had so patiently overcome the tremendous
obstacles of distance and dangers in bringing the hidden regions
to the knowledge of the civilized world.
The channel continued quite good, but the little steamer,
which they had long before found to be a grand humbug, gave
them such an amount of trouble, and consumed such quantities
of wood, that their advance was hardly easier than it would




"INO NOTE OF TIME."               369
hlave been on the land. It was of infinite service, however, in
impressing their neighbors on the banks with the importance
of the travellers, and gave great emphasis to what they said.
An appearance of strength and independence helps a man wonderfully in Africa, just as it does in America, and one feels
under no special obligation to tell the gazing throng, here or
there, that the ship which awes them is a leaking ship. If men
do not know that it leaks they may not try to sink it.
The people along the river, of whom, in the lower part, Tangane is the paramount chief, were found congregated in countless little villages, just as in other sections; and though at first
distant and a little inclined to be belligerent, generally yielded
to the arguments which overcame those nearest the Shire. They
were not quite as eager for trade when they were first visited as
they afterward became, and consequently the party, during the
first ascent of the river, were considerably annoyed by the loss
of time, for which, however, they censure a people who took
"no note " of the commodity, among whom it had no " tongue."
It was their misfortune, not the fault of the natives, that they
held their notions of expeditious work in the midst of men who
recognize no other reason for being in a hurry except the necessity of escaping with life from an enemy. They could not be
condemned because they did not know the value of money, and
cared too little for the advantages of a market to be eager about
selling food. They were willing enough, but did not see why
they should make haste. The state of eager competition which
in America wears out both mind and body, and makes life
bitter, is here happily unknown.  The cultivated spots are
mere dots compared to the broad fields of rich soil which are
never either grazed or tilled. Pity that the plenty in store for
all, from our Father's bountiful hands, is not enjoyed by more.
Rice was sold at wonderfully low rates, and when they
chanced to come to villages where the people were eager to
trade, they could not purchase a tithe of that which was brought
to them. This was particularly true of their experience at
Mbona (160 56' 30"t S.) While anchored at this village, they
were serenaded in the evening by a native minstrel, playing his
quaint tunes on a species of fiddle with one string, and singing
strange, wild, unmusical songs, who told some of the Makololo
19




370             THE NOCTURNAL MUSICIAN.
that he intended to play all night to induce them to give him a
present.  The nights being cold, the thermometer falling to
47~, with occasional fogs, he was asked if he was not afraid of
perishing from cold; but, with the genuine spirit of an Italian
organ-grinder, he replied, "Oh, no; I shall spend the night
with my white comrades in the big canoe; I have often heard
of the white men, but have never seen them till now, and I
must sing and play well to them."  Such a proposition was
dreadful. The situation was serious, as who may not imagine
who has been robbed of his needed slumber by the nocturnal
knights of the muse who infest all communities. It was an
occasion demanding action, and the treasures were opened as
eagerly as if to satisfy the covetous demands of an extortionate
chief, and the few yards of cloth were considered well spent
which were invested in buying the courteous visitor off from his
purpose.
A range of hills, commencing opposite Senna, comes to within
two or three miles of Mboma village, and then runs in a northwesterly direction; the principal hill is named Malawe; a number of villages stand on its tree-covered sides, and coal is found
cropping out in the rocks. The country improved as they
ascended, the rich valley becoming less swampy, and adorned
with a number of trees.
Both banks were dotted with hippopotamus traps, over every
track which these animals have made in going up out of the
water to graze. The hippopotamus feeds on grass alone, and,
where there is any danger, only at night. Its enormous lips
act like a mowing-machine, and form a path of short-cropped
grass as it feeds. It is never seen to eat aquatic plants or reeds.
The tusks seem weapons of both offence and defence. The hippopotamus trap consists of a beam five or six feet long, armed
with a spear-head or hard-wood spike, covered with poison, and
suspended to a forked pole by a cord, which, coming down to
the path, is held by a catch, to be set free when the beast treads
on it. Being wary brutes, they are still very numerous. One
got frightened by the ship as she was steaming close to the bank.
In its eager hurry to escape it rushed on shore, and ran directly
tinder a trap, when down came the heavy beam on its back,
driving the poisoned spear-head a foot deep into its flesh. In




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ELEPHANT MIARSH.                 373
its agony it plunged back into the river, to die in a few hours,
and afterwards furnished a feast for the natives. The poison on
the spear-head does not affect the meat, except the part around
the wound, and that is thrown away. In some places the descending beam is weighted with heavy stones, but here the hard,
heavy wood is sufficient.
A few miles above Mboma they came to the village of the
chief of the country through which they had been passing.
Tingane was an elderly man with gray hair, tall and well
made. The excited demeanor which was natural on his first
acquaintance with white people wore away with his observation
of his new friends, until in the later visits he could be recorded
among the hospitable and open-hearted men of the continent.
Some miles to the right from this village could be seen Mount
Clarendon looming up in conspicuous grandeur, and further to
the northwest the Milange range, which send forth from their
shadows the river Rue, which flows into the, Shire just above the
village. Only a short distance above the 4;nfluence of the Rue
came Elephant Marsh, with its fabulous lieirds of this royal
beast. Eight hundred were counted in a single herd. This
was truly a wonderful scene, besides the enormous herds of large
animals everywhere to be seen.
"The Shire marshes support prodigious numbers of many
kinds of water-fowl. An hour at the mast-head unfolded novel
views of life in an African marsh. Near the edge, and on the
branches of some favorite tree, rest scores of plotuses and cormorants, which stretch their snake-like necks and in mute amazement turn one eye and then another towards the approaching
monster. By and by the timid ones begin to fly off, or take'headers' into the stream; but a few of the bolder, or more composed, remain, only taking the precaution to spread their wings
ready for instant flight. The pretty ardetta (Herodias bubumlcus),
of a light yellow color when at rest, but seemingly of a pure
white when flying, takes wing, and sweeps across the green
grass in large numbers, often showing where buffaloes and elephants are by perching on their backs. Flocks of ducks, of
which the kind called'Soriri' (Dendrocygna personata) is most
abundant, being night feeders, meditate quietly by the small
lagoons, until startled by the noise of the steam machinery.




374             FOREST OF PALM TREES.
Pelicans glide over the water catching fish, while the Scopus
(Scopus umbretta) and large herons peer intently into pools.
The large black and white spur-winged goose (a constant marauder of native gardens) springs up, and circles round to find
out what the disturbance can be, and then settles down again
with a splash. Hundreds of Linongolos (Anastomus lamelligerus) rise on the wing from the clumps of reeds, or low trees (the
Eschinbmena, from which pith hats are made), on which they
build in colonies, and are speedily high in mid-air. Charming
little red and yellow weavers (Ploceidce) remind one of butterflies, as they fly in and out of the tall grass, or hang to the
mouths of their pendent nests, chattering briskly to their mates
within.  Kites and vultures are busy overhead, beating the
ground for their repast of carrion; and the solemn-looking,
stately-stepping Marabout, with a taste for dead fish, or men,
stalks slowly along the almost stagnant channels. Groups of
men and boys are searching diligently in various places for lotus
and other roots. Some are standing in canoes, on the weedcovered ponds, spearing fish, while others are punting over the
small intersecting streams to examine their sunken fish-baskets.
"Towards evening, hundreds of pretty little hawks (EBythropus vespertinius) are seen flying in a southerly direction, and
feeding on dragon-flies and locusts. They come, apparently,
from resting on the palm-trees during the heat of the day.
Flocks of scissor-bills (Rhyncops) are then also on the wing,
and in search of food, ploughing the water with their lower
mandibles, which are nearly half an inch longer than the upper
ones.
"At the northeastern end of the marsh, and about three miles
from the river, commences a great forest of palm-trees (Borassus
Ethiopium). It extends many miles, and at one point comes
close to the river. The gray trunks and green tops of this immense mass of trees give a pleasing tone of color to the view.
The mountain-range, which rises close behind the palms, is
generally of a cheerful green, and has many trees, with patches
of a lighter tint among them, as if spots of land had once been
cultivated. The sharp angular rocks and dells on its sides have
the appearance of a huge crystal broken; and this is so often the
case in Africa that one can guess pretty nearly at sight whether




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ISLANDS OF THE SHIRE.                377'
a range is of the old crystalline rocks or not. The Borassus,
though not an oil-bearing palm, is a useful tree. The fibrous
pulp, round the large nuts, is of a sweet, fruity taste, and is
eaten by men and elephants. The natives bury the nuts until
the kernels begin to sprout; when dug up and broken, the inside resembles coarse potatoes, and is prized in times of scarcity
as nutritious food. During several months of the year palmwine, or sura, is obtained in large quantities; when fresh, it is a
pleasant drink, somewhat like champagne, and not at all intoxicating; though, after standing a few hours, it becomes highly so.
Sticks, a foot long, are driven into notches in the hard outside
of the tree-the inside being soft or hollow-to serve as a ladder;
the top of the fruit-shoot is cut off, and the sap, pouring out at
the fresh wound, is caught in an earthen pot, which is hung at
the point. A thin slice is taken off the end, to open the pores
and make the juice flow every time the owner ascends to empty
the pot. Temporary huts are erected in the forest, and men and
boys remain by their respective trees day and night; the nuts,
fish, and wine being their sole food. The Portuguese use the
palm-wine as yeast, and it makes bread so light that it melts in
the mouth like froth.
"Above the palm-trees, a succession of rich, low islands stud
the river.  Many of them are cultivated and grow maize at all
times of the year, for we saw it in different stages of growth;
some patches ripe, and others half-grown, or just sprouting out
of the ground. The shores are adorned with rows of bananatrees, and the fruit is abundant and cheap. Many of the reedy
banks are so intertwined with convolvulus, and other creepers,
as to be absolutely impenetrable. They are beautiful to the
eye, a smooth wall of living green rising out of the crystal
water, and adorned with lovely flowers; but so dense that, if
capsized in the water, one could scarcely pass through to land."
The village of Mankodkwe, an unhappy, suspicious man, who
divides the paramount dignity of the section with Tingane, offered
no hospitality, and, sailing by the confluence of the 1\Ioanza, the
expedition cast anchor opposite the village of Chibisa. This
village, on the southern bank of the river, crowns a perpendicular
bluff of stratified sand, quite sixty feet high, and covered with
verdure. From this elevated spot the view commanded extorted




378                THE CHIEF CHIBISA.
exclamations of delight from the most indifferent. The noble
river winding away toward the Zambesi, twining about hundreds
of verdant islands, laving gently the grassy banks, and catching
the shadows of the splendid trees; the valley, also, covered with
its marvellous wealth of forest growth and animal life; and
farther away mountain on mountain; then, looking northward,
their vision leaped along the summits of the numerous ranges
of the highlands.
The chief of the village was a remarkably shrewd man, and
the most intelligent chief, by far, in this quarter. A great deal
of fighting had fallen to his lot, he said; but it was always others
who began; he was invariably in the right, and they alone were
to blame. He was, moreover, a firm believer in the divine right
of kings. He was an ordinary man, he said, when his father
died and left himn the chieftainship; but directly he succeeded to
the high office he was conscious of power passing into his head
and down his back; he felt it enter, and knew that he was a
chief, clothed with authority and possessed of wisdom; and
people then began to fear and reverence him. He mentioned
this as one would a fact of natural history, any doubt being
quite out of the question. His people, too, believed in him, for
they bathed in the river without the slightest fear of crocodiles,
the chief having placed a powerful medicine there which protected them. He sent out two men to invite Dr. Livingstone
to drink beer with him; but the steamer was above their comprehension, they could not confront such an apparition, and,
shouting the invitation from a distance, they abandoned their
canoes and made for the shore with amusing earnestness.
The most conspicuous industry of the place was the manufacture of cotton according to the primitive mnethods, which have
maintained their dominion grandly, while other lands have witnessed an entire revolution in such matters. The men might
be seen sitting about busily cleaning, sorting, spinning and weaving. It was then, as always, easy to observe the influence on
the people of an intelligent and thoughtful chief: they were
more generous and friendly and more readily appreciated the
spirit and plans of the white men.
"Leaving the vessel opposite Chibisa's village, Drs. Livingstone and Kirk, and a number of the Makololo, started on foot




A SERIOUS QUESTION.                379
for Lake Shirwa. They travelled in a northerly direction over
a mountainous country. The people were far from being welldisposed to them, and some of their guides tried to mislead
them, and could not be trusted. Masakasa, a Makololo head
man, overheard some remarks which satisfied him that the guide
was leading them into trouble. He was quiet till they reached
a lonely spot, when he came up to Dr. Livingstone, and said,'That fellow is bad, he is taking us into mischief; my spear is
sharp, and there is no one here, shall I cast him into the long
grass?' Had the doctor given the slightest token of assent, or
even kept silence, never more would any one have been led by
that guide, for in a twinkling he would have been where' the
wicked cease from troubling.' It was afterwards found that in
this case there was no treachery at all; but a want of knowledge
on their part of the language and of the country. They asked
to be led to' Nyanja Mukulu,' or Great Lake, meaning by this
Lake Shirwa; and the guide took them round a terribly rough
piece of mountainous country, gradually edging away towards
a long marsh, which from the numbers of those animals we had
seen there we had called the Elephant Marsh, but which was
really the place known to him by the name'Nyanja Mukulu,'
or Great Lake. Nyanja, or Nyanza, means, generally, a marsh,
lake, river, or even a mere rivulet.
"The party pushed on at last without guides, or only with
crazy ones; for, oddly enough, they were often under great obligations to the madmen of the different villages; one of these
honored them, as they slept in the open air, by dancing and
singing at their feet the whole night. These poor fellows sympathized with the explorers, probably in the belief that they
belonged to their own class; and, uninfluenced by the general
opinion of their countrymen, they really pitied, and took kindly
to the strangers, and often guided them faithfilIly from place
to place, when no sane man could be hired for love or money.
" The perseverance of the party was finally crowned with success; for on the 18th of April they discovered Lake Shirwa, a
considerable body of bitter water, containing leeches, fish, crocodiles and hippopotami. From having probably no outlet, the
water is slightly brackish, and it appears to be deep, with
islands like hills rising out of it. Their point of view was at




380                  LAKE SHIRWA.
the base of Mount Primiti or Mopeu-peu, on its S. S. W. side.
Thence the prospect northwards ended in a sea horizon with
two small islands in the distance-a larger one, resembling a
hill-top and covered with trees, rose more in the foreground.
Ranges of hills appeared on the east; and on the west stood
Mount Chikala, which seems to be connected with the great
mountain mass called Zomba.
"The shore, near which they spent two nights, was covered
with reeds and papyrus. Wishing to obtain the latitude by the
natural horizon, they waded into the water some distance
towards what was reported to be a sand-bank, but were so
assaulted by leeches, they were fain to retreat; and a woman
told them that in enticing them into the water the men only
wanted to kill them. The information gathered was that this
lake was nothing in size compared to another in the north, from
which it is separated by only a tongue of land. The northern
end of Shirwa has not been seen, though it has been passed;
the length of the lake may probably be sixty or eighty miles,
and about twenty broad. The height above the sea is eighteen
hundred feet, and the taste of the water is like a weak solution
of Epsom salts. The country around is very beautiful, and
clothed with rich vegetation; and the waves, at the time they were
there, breaking and foaming over a rock on the southeastern
side, added to the beauty of the picture. Exceedingly lofty mountains, perhaps eight thousand feet above the sea-level, stand near
the eastern shore. When their lofty steep-sided summits appear,
some above, some below the clouds, the scene is grand. This
range is called Milanje; on the west stands Mount Zomba, seven
thousand feet in height, and some twenty miles long."
Their object being rather to gain the confidence of the
people by degrees, than to explore, they considered that they
had advanced far enough into the country for one trip; and
believing that they could secure their end by a repetition of
their visit, as they had done on the Shire, they decided to return to the vessel at Dakanamoio island; but, instead of returning by the way they came, they passed down southwards close
by Mount Chiradzuru, among the relatives of Chibisa, and
thence down to the Shire.
When they reached the ship, it seemed important, before




START FOR LAKE NYASSA.                381
attempting further explorations, to return to Tete for additional
supplies, and it was the 28th of August before they left their
craft under the shadow of Chibisa's village and set out in search
of the far-famed Lake Nyassa. It may not have been necessary
for as many as forty-two men to set forth on such a journey;
but the advantage of numbers and guns, in the impressions they
convey of strength, and the lessons they suggest of kindness and
politeness, more than makes up for the greater trouble and
expense of their support. And it was particularly important,
on this journey, that there should be a reasonable display of
strength, because their path lay across thed territory of most
unfriendly people, with whom it was of the greatest importance
that there be no conflict.
Following the course of a beautifully-flowing stream, in a
northeasterly direction across the valley, they passed many gardens where cotton was growing luxuriantly.  An hour's march
brought them to the foot of the Manganja hills, up which their
toilsome road must lead them. The vegetation changed as they
ascended; new trees and plants received them; and, as they
climbed higher and higher, a wider and more charming landscape stretched away behind them.  Looking back from  an
elevation of a thousand feet, the eye could take in the whole of
a charming valley, with its silvery stream flowing in many
windings from the shadows of the hills toward the Shire. The
Shire itself could be seen for many miles above and below Chibisa's, and the great level country beyond, with its numerous
green woods; until the prospect west and northwest ended on
the peaks of massive dome-shaped mountains that far away
fringe the highlands of the Maravi country. On the first of
the terraces of these hills the party found the village of Chitiiuba, nestling in a woody hollow, and surrounded by the
characteristic hedge of poisonous euphorbia, and sat down under
some fine trees, as strangers are wont to do, near the entrance
of the village. A couple of mats were spread for the white men
to sit on; and the head man brought a seguati, or present, of a
small goat and a basket of meal. The full value in beads and
cotton cloth was handed to him in return. He measured the
cloth, doubled it, and then measured that again. The beads
were scrutinized; he had never seen beads of that color before,




382             MANGANJA GOVERNMENT.
and should like to consult with his comrades before accepting
them, and this, after repeated examinations and much anxious
talk, he concluded to do. Meal and peas were then brought
for sale. A brisk trade sprang up at once, each being eager to
obtain as fine things as his neighbor, and all were in good
humor. Women and girls began to pound and grind meal, and
men and boys chased the screaming fowls over the village, until
they ran them down. In a few hours the market was completely glutted with every sort of native food; the prices, however, rarely fell, as they could easily eat what was not sold.
Every now and'then, as they pursued their way along these
splendid ranges, they passed the native villages occupying the
most picturesque situations and commanding splendid views.
As among the tribes generally in Africa, the villages of the
Manganja are generally the petty kingdoms of some head man,
and not unfrequently a man of superior power extends his sway
over several of those about him. Mankokwe was the paramount chief of the southern portion of the highlands at the time
of Dr. Livingstone's visits; but while the people acknowledged
his authority, he rarely collected the tribute due him, being a
besotted man, who gave no thought to the affairs of his
dominion.
The _Manganja are an industrious race; and in addition to
working in iron, cotton, and basket-making, they cultivate the
soil extensively. All the people of a village turn out to labor
in the fields. It is no uncommon thing to see men, women and
children hard at work, with the baby lying close by beneath a
shady bush. When a new piece of woodland is to be cleared,
they proceed exactly as farmers do in America. The trees are
cut down with their little axes of soft native iron; trunks andl
branches are piled up and burnt, and the ashes spread on the
soil. The corn is planted among the standing stumps, which
are left to rot. If grass land is to be brought under cultivation,
as much tall grass as the laborer can conveniently lay hold of
is collected together and tied into a knot. He then strikes his
hoe round the tufts to sever the roots, and leaving all standing,
proceeds until the whole ground assumes the appearance of a
field covered with little shocks of corn in harvest. A short
time before the rains begin, these grass shocks are collected in




AFRICAN COTTON.                   383
small heaps, covered with earth, and burnt, the ashes and burnt
soil being used to fertilize the ground. Large crops of the
mapira, or Egyptian dura (Holeus sorghum) are raised, with
millet, beans and groundnuts; also patches of yams, rice,
pumpkins, cucumbers, cassava, sweet potatoes, tobacco, and
hemp, or bang (Cannabis sativa).  Maize is grown all the year
round.  Cotton is cultivated at almost every village. Three
varieties of cotton have been found in the country, namely, two
foreign and one native. The tonje manga, or foreign cotton,
the name showing that it has been introduced, is of excellent
quality, and considered at Manchester to be nearly equal to the
best New Orleans. It is perennial, but requires replanting once
in three years. A considerable amount of this variety is grown
in the Upper and Lower Shire valleys. Every family of any
importance owns a cotton patch, which, from the entire absence
of weeds, seemed to be carefully cultivated.  Most were small,
none seen on this journey exceeding half an acre; but on the
former trip some were observed of more than twice that size.
The tonje cadja, or indigenous cotton, is of shorter staple, and
feels in the hand like wool. This kind has to be planted every
season, in the highlands; yet, because it makes stronger cloth,
many of the people prefer it to the foreign cotton; the third
variety is not found here. It was remarked to a number of
men near the Shire lakelet, a little farther on towards Nyassa,
"You should plant plenty of cotton, and probably the English
will come and buy it."  Truly," replied a far-travelled Babisa
trader to his fellows, "the country is full of cotton, and if these
people come to buy they will enrich us." And it is encouraging to know that the observation of the party inclined them to
give much credit to his statement.  Though it may seem. like
an idle flourish, they hardly ever entered a village without
finding a number of men cleaning, spinning and weaving. It
is first carefully separated from the seed by the fingers, or by
an iron roller, on a little block of wood, and rove out into long
soft bands without twist. Then it receives its first twist on the
spindle, and becomes about the thickness of coarse candlewick;
after being taken off and wound into a large ball, it is given the
final hard twist, and spun into a firm cop on the spindle again:
all the processes being painfully slow.




384              MANGANJA INDUSTRIES.
Iron ore is dug out of the hills, and its manufacture is the
staple trade of the southern highlands. Each village has its
smelting-house, its charcoal-burners, and blacksmiths.  They
make good axes, spears, needles, arrow-heads, bracelets and
anklets, which, considering the entire absence of machinery, are
sold at surprisingly low rates; a hoe over two pounds in weight
is exchanged for calico of about the value of fourpence. In
villages near Lake Shirwa and elsewhere, the inhabitants enter
pretty largely into the manufacture of crockery, or pottery,
making by hand all, sorts of cooking, water, and grain pots,
which they ornament with plumbago found in the hills. Some
find employment in weaving neat baskets from split bamboos,
and others collect the fibre of the buaze, which grows abundantly on the hills, and make it into fish-nets.  These they
either use themselves, or exchange with the fishermen on the
river or lakes for dried fish and salt. A great deal of native
trade is carried on between the villages, by means of barter in
tobacco, salt, dried fish, skins and iron.
The Manganja were found to be generally a pleasant people,
and happily for some members of the expedition they were able
almost to forget color in associating with them. There were
peculiarities, however, which in the society of civilized communities would constitute a distinction almost as marked as
color itself; fashions control communities more uncompromisingly than natural conditions, if possible, and the fashions which
distinguished the Manganja would hardly find a follower even
among the most eager hunters of novelty.  There were the buffaloes' horns and the rhinoceros horns which were found elsewhere; some also had their wool hanging about their shoulders,
while others still appeared shorn entirely, and, true to their
natures, there was an illimitable indulgence in bodily ornament;
they adorned themselves most extravagantly, wearing rings on
their fingers and thumbs, besides throatlets, bracelets, and anklets
of brass, copper, or iron. But the most wonderful of ornaments,
if such it may be called, is the pelele, or upper-lip ring of the
women. The middle of the upper lip of the girls is pierced
close to the septum of the nose, and a small pin inserted to prevent the puncture closing up. After it has healed, the pin is
taken out and a larger one is pressed into its place, and so on




\~ ~ ~~7                                     \\ N'
MANGANJA BELLE (page 309).                                          A CAFFRE BRIDE.








A SINGULAR FANCY.                  387
successively for weeks, and months, and years. The process of
increasing the size of the lip goes on till its capacity becomes so
great that a ring of two inches diameter call be introduced with
ease. All the highland women wear the pelele, and it is common on the Upper and Lower Shire; and everywhere it is accounted a matchless charm. The fair belle of our great cities
clings not more fondly to the sparkling jewel on her breast, or
the pendants of pearl which adorn her ears, than do these African beauties(?) maintain the excellence of the pelele. They
need no better justification of their custom than " it is fashion;"
and why should they go further than that? can civilization suggest the modification of a custom which is a matter of established
fashion? Will not even the church of to-day admit that the
fact of the fashion answers all objections to anything? A bright
idea struck Livingstone on observing the younger women constantly twaddling this queer pendant with their tongues, and it
is a question whether, if the idea is "to find safe employment
for that little member," it may not receive the indorsement of
the gentlemen of the land we live in. The frequent mention
of beer, among the abundant commodities of the country, may
have suggested the suspicion already, that the Manganja would
hardly pay a hundred cents on the dollar as temperance candidates for our respect. Dr. Livingstone remarked to his associates
that he had not seen so much drunkenness during sixteen years
in Africa as he saw among these people. As they crossed, the
party sometimes found whole villages revelling in their favorite
indulgence, and the drinking, drumming and dancing, with
which they insist on hailing the morning, would put the most
accomplished priests of Bacchus to the blush. The party entered
a village one afternoon where every man had fallen in the action;
not one was to be seen, and the only indications of life were the
few half-conscious women who were still by the beer-pots under
a tree. There, as here, the serpent excites every man to the
extravagance of his ruling passion, and they have topers, talkative, boisterous, silly, stupid and pugnacious. One of these
pugnacious specimens on one occasion attempting to arrest the
party in their journey, subjected himself to a very pointed lesson
on politeness by one of the Makololo who had as little conscience about using his spear on a man as on an ox. The bev



388           SUPERSTITION AND RELTGION.
erage on which these poor people were debauching themselves
so sadly was found really a pleasant and refreshing article, and
one which could hardly be suspected of such dreadful effects to
the traveller who only used it moderately.
The people are attached to their homes, and there will rarely
be found a roving disposition among them. The Makololo
were astonished that even a prominent chief should never have
a "fit of travelling come over him: should never have a desire
to see other lands and people." They sit within their hedge of
euphorbia as securely as within a wall of stone, and often live
to very great age; and, to the great horror of the hydropathists,
they cannot attribute a single day of their ages to the yielding
element; they perform no ablutions; one old man thought he
could remember having "washed once in his life, but so long
before that he had forgotten how it felt."
Superstition, of course, had its place in the lives of the Manganja. The muave was there, too, the uncompromising judge
between men in all their disputes; it was depended on to detect
the guilty party, and such was the universal confidence in the
correctness of its decisions that innocent complainants did not
hesitate a moment in resorting to its mysterious bar. But though
they so eagerly appeal to the dreadful poison in defence of their
characters, the grave is overshadowed by the darkness and mystery which everywhere saddens so bitterly the wailings of bereaved ignorance.  "We live only a few days here," said old
Chinsunse, "but we live again after death; we do not know
where, or in what condition, or with what companions, for the
dead never return to tell us. Sometimes the dead do come back,.
and appear to us in dreams; but they never speak nor tell us
where they have gone, nor how they fare."
The splendid country of Manganja offered none of those adventures with ferocious beasts which some readers are on the
look out for in accounts of such expeditions, but the charming
landscapes and fertile gardens were objects of greater interest.
They were a week in crossing these hills.
The impossibility of carrying their boat by the cataracts,
which begin a few miles from  Chibisa's village, had compelled
them to forego the more distinguished mode of travelling for a
time; but they were certainly well pleased with the change which




'"IT IS DOWN IN A BOOK."             389
unfolded to them the grand panorama of tropical nature which
invited their unwearying gaze.
The cataracts which we have mentioned had been discovered
some time before, and distinguished by the honorable name of
the generous friend of geographical science, who had also proven
himself a true friend of Dr. Livingstone.  Murchison's cataracts
extend through thirty-five miles of latitude, having in this distance
about twelve hundred feet fall. Above the cataracts, as below,
the river was found broad and easily navigable, and guided the
explorers in their search for the great lake. It is hardly to be
expected that even so short a journey could be performed without the discouragements which men ever lavish on new enterprises, and the African was not behind the foremost man on the
list in the readiness with which he finds the explanation of every
momentous undertaking in the folly of its leader. One of these
pests joined himself to the party in the Upper Shire valley, and
annoyed them by telling the residents that "all of these men "
had wandered, " gone mad," and knew not where they were
going. There was a more serious discouragement, however, in
the assurance which they received at the village of Muana
Moesa that the lake had never been heard of there, but that the
river stretched on as they saw it the distance of two months,
and then came out from bet~ween rocks which towered almost to
the skies. The Makololo looked blank when they heard this,
and said, "Let us go back to the ship; it is of no use trying to
find the lake."  "W;Ve shall go and see those wonderful rocks
at any rate," said the doctor. "And when you see them," replied Masakasa, "you will just want to see something else."
"But there is a lake," rejoined Masakasa, "for all their denying it, for it is down in a book."  Masakasa, having unbounded
faith in whatever was in a book, went and scolded the natives
for telling him an untruth.  " There is a lake," said he, " for
how could the white men know about it in a book if it did not
exist?"
Such uncalled-for attempts at deception might have been as
provoking to Dr. Livingstone as they were to his Makololo, but
he had thought more about human nature than they, and could
mlore easily understand and more readily pity such exhibitions
among people so untaught. It is lamentable that the grandest




390              DISCOVERY OF NYASSA.
undertakings must be accomplished over the opposition of the
very people who are to be the recipients of its richest benefits.
The perversity of human nature invites our compassion; it ought
not to provoke our impatience, or weaken our resolutions. Livingstone and his party pressed on and discovered Lake Nyassa,
a little before noon on the 16th of September, 1859, about two
months before the enterprising Dr. Roscher reached its northern
end. The southern extremity of the lake was found to be in
14~ 25' south latitude, and 350 30' east longitude. The valley
was about twelve miles wide, and ranges of hills extend along
both sides of the lake. It was not their policy to continue long
at the lake, because they had found that repeated visits did more
toward allaying the suspicions of the natives and engaging their
confidence. The littletime that they were there was long enough
to reveal the fact that they had reached one of the great slavepaths from the interior. They met a party headed by Arabs, a
villanous-looking set, whose whole demeanor indicated their
capacity for those deeds of cruelty which are inseparably connected with this revolting business.
In turning their steps again to their ship, the members of the
expedition agreed with Dr. Livingstone that, except the cataracts,
there was nothing in the way of free water transportation from
the sea to the great lake, and they were earnest in their appeal
to the home government for a boat to be launched on the Upper
Shire, to ply along that portion of the river and along the lake.
They felt confident that a single steamer on the lake would do
more than any other single agency in impressing the people
favorably, and in checking the slave-trade which had its great
crossing places at different points on the river and lake. Filled
with the inspiration of these noble aspirations and rejoicing in
the hope to their realization, they hastened southward, and rejoined their party at Chibisa's on the 6th of October, after a
land journey of forty days.
From Chibisa, Dr. Kirk and Mr. Rae, the engineer, undertook to cross the country and meet their friends again at Tete.
The passage down the stream was full of such mournful interest
as belongs to tormenting delays inseparable from a leaking craft
and daily conflicts with sandbanks. After a time they entered
the Zambesi, and landed at Tete February 2d, 1860. The




ACROSS THE COUNTRY.                391
journey of Dr. Kirk across the country, comparatively short,
was accomplished with great difficulty and extreme suffering.
It was the season of the year when there is the greatest scarcity
of water, and the little to be found by digging in the beds of
dry watercourses was so brackish that it increased the thirst
which they sought to allay; and iwhen, at long intervals, that
chanced to be found which was less brackish, it had already become the resort of large game whose unscrupulous habits of
wallowing in the mud left only the choice of a filthy draught
for a salt one. The country was level, and large tracts of it
were covered with mopane trees, whose small leaves afforded no
shelter from the scorching rays of the sun, which burnt off the
grass and baked the earth. The heat was so great that the men
frequently jumped from the path in the vain hope of cooling
their scorched feet. The fat was melted away from the salt pork
which was carried by one of the natives, and only the fibre of
the meat remained. But even this path was hardly known at
Tete before it became the highway along which merciless traders
drove their human cattle toward a market.
20




CHAPTER XIX.
JOURNEYS OF HONOR.
Regard for Obligations-Busy Preparations —Market Prices at Tete-Singular
AMeasures-Social Turn-Evening Gatherings-Peculiar "Tea-Parties" —Makololo Objections to Leaving Tete-Their Gains and Losses-The OutfitJourney Begun-Linyanti-Sekelettu-The Mission-Graves —Explanation of
Failure-Livingstone's Confidence-Hope Unshaken-Makololo Faithfulness
-Attentions-Growing Disaffection-Seaward Again —Tete-The KongoneThe "Pioneer" Arrives-The Rovuma —Return to the Shire-The " University's
Mission "-Their Misfortunes —War Prevailing - The Slave-Trade —Lake
Nyassa-The Lake Tribes-Shupanga-Death of Mrs. Livingstone.
IT has been observed by those who have become at all familiar
with the life of Dr. Livingstone that he considered no difficulty
or danger an apology for the neglect of any duty. However
charitably he may have regarded the shortcomings of others, he
held himself by the most unrelenting laws; his inherited maxim
was engraved on his heart.  He knew  that the chief who
had three years before confided his ivory and his people to him
would depend on his word, and every consideration forced on
him the obligation to honor that confidence by the faithful performance of his obligation. There seemed to be no reason why
the journey should be longer deferred, and preparations were
accordingly begun for a journey of honor from Tete to Linyanti.
The " Ma-Robert " was in the last stages of inefficiency; she had
become intolerably leaky, and the den of innumerable rats andl
roaches, and the best that could be done with her was to resign
her to their undisputed dominion.
In the midst of the busy preparations for this journey there
was very little opportunity for much else, and only such events
in Tete life as came conspicuously before them received attention.  But a man so deeply interested in the condition of' the
people, and the influences under which they were living, is naturally interested in the rare specimen of authority which was
just then making a little ripple on the surface of the ordinarily
392




MAERKET PRICES AT TETE.              393
dull community. Owing to the desolating wars of former years,
the cost of provisions was nearly three times as much as in bygone days; so his excellency determined to reduce prices to their
former standard, and proclaimed that in future twenty-four fowls
instead of eight were to be sold for two yards of calico, and that
the prices of sheep, goats, and oil should be reduced in like
proportion. The first native who came to market refused to
sell his fowls at government prices, and was at once hauled up
before the irate commandant, and, for contumacy to this new
re-enactment of old laws, condemned to be marched up and
down the street all day, with his cackling merchandise hung
round his neck, and then sent to prison to pass the night. Another poor fellow brought a pot of groundnut-oil for sale, and
was condemned to drink of it largely for refusing to sell it at
the legal rate.
Such measures did very well as an expression of his excellency's animus, but they were impotent so far as any general
influence on the market was concerned. The natives simply declined to bring their possessions to the village under the circumstances, and while the country is claimed with a great show of
dignity by the Portuguese, the tax collectors, who should venture to invade the back country for the dues of their master,
would probably be called on to pay the " ktst debt" before collecting the first one. Besides the funerals and weddings, which
are reckoned among the institutions of the place, the "teaparties " are perhaps as characteristic of the mercantile community. They are of a " social turn," and these evening parties are
quite popular with them, and if any man would know of the
climate of Tete, the expedition supports us in advising him to
select a "tea-party" for his investigations; nowhere may he
hope to witness so satisfactorily the strangely debilitating effects.
Of such an occasion Dr. Livingstone says:
" In the course of an hour a number of the members become
too feeble to sit in their chairs, and slip unconsciously under the
table; while others, who have been standing up loudly singing
or talking, fall into one another's arms, swearing eternal friendship, but gradually losing control both of tongue and limb.
Slaves sit at the door, who, understanding these symptoms, enter
and bear their weak and prostrate masters home. We should




394              A TEA PARTY AT TETE.
not hesitate to ascribe these symptoms to inebriety, if intoxication was not described here by the phrase'he speaks English,'
that is,' he's drunk;' so that any such charge would have the
appearance of a tu quoque. The shocking prevalence of intemperance and other vices among the Portuguese at Tete made us
wonder, not that they had fever, but that they were not all
swept off together. Their habits would be fatal in any climate;
the natives marvelled even more than we did; our Makololo,
for instance, looked on aghast at these convivial parties, and
Sininyane described one in a way that might have done
-the actors good.'A  Portuguese stands up,' said he,'and
cries Viva! that means, I am pleased; another says, Viva!
I am pleased too; and then they all shout out Viva! we are
all pleased together; they are so glad just to get a little beer.'
One night he saw three inebriated officers in the midst of their
enjoyment quarrelling about a false report; one jumped on his
superior and tried to bite him; and, whilst these two were rolling on the floor, the third caught up a chair and therewith
pounded them both. Sininyane, horrified at such conduct, exclaimed,' What kind of people can these whites be, who treat
even their chiefs in this manner?  "
As the preparations for their departure progressed, it was discovered that some of those who had come down from the Makolol country with Dr. Livingstone had become so identified with
their temporary home that they were not inclined to return.
Many had taken up with slave-women, whom they assisted in
hoeing, and in consuming the produce of their gardens. Some
fourteen children had been born to them; and in consequence
of now having no chief to order them, or to claim their services,
they thought they were about as well off as they had been in
their own country. They knew and regretted that they could
call neither wives nor children their own; the slave-owners
claimed the whole; but their natural affections had been so enchained that they clave to the domestic ties. By a law of Portugal the baptized children of slave-women are all free; by the
custom of the Zambesi that law is void. When it is referred to,
the officers laugh, and say, "These Lisbon-born laws are very
stringent, but somehow, possibly from the heat of the climate,
here they lose all their force."




PREPARATIONS FOR JOURNEY.              395
It will not be forgotten that these men were only called
Makololo; the only real member of that tribe since therdeath of
Sekeletu in the whole party was Kanyanta, on whom the leadership now devolved, the others belonging to other tribes which
had been added to the dominion of Sebituane.  Many of these
men had only added to their own vices those of the Tete slaves
with whom they had been in contact; others, by toiling during
the first two years in navigating canoes and hunting elephants,
had often managed to save a little to take back to their own
country, but had to part with it all for food to support the rest
in times of hunger, and, latterly, had fallen into the improvident
habits of slaves, and spent their surplus earnings in beer and
agua ardiente.
Under such circumstances it was quite an undertaking to get
so many men in marching trim; but the Makololo, who had
worked for the expedition, were paid for their services, and every
one who had come down with the doctor from the interior received a present of cloth and ornaments, in order to protect them
from the greater cold of their own country, and to show that
they had not come in vain. A merchant sent three men along
with presents for Sekeletu. Major Sicard also furnished three
men to assist the party on their return, and having received the
loan of a couple of donkeys completed their preparations, and
at 2 P. M. on the 15th of May their party filed away from the
little village north of Tete. The journey was varied with incidents inseparable from African life, but being along almost
the same route by which we have already followed the leader
of the expedition in his former travels, hardlyjustifies the minute
attention of those who are eager for information as extensive as
may be of the great continent.
Three months after leaving Tete the party entered Sesheke;
great changes had taken place during Dr. Livingstone's absence
of four years. The old town was in ruins, and the people had
built another higher up the river; the people were all in low
spirits; Sekeletu was on the opposite side of the river the victim
of a dreadful disease. A severe drought had cut off the crops,
and destroyed the pasture of Linyanti, and the people were scattered over the country in search of wild fruits, and the hospitality
of those whose groundnuts (Arachis hyIogEa) had not failed.




396            THE AMAKOLOLO COUNTRY.
Sekeletu's leprosy brought troops of evils in its train. Believing himself bewitched, he had suspected a number of his chief
men, and had put some, with their families, to death; others
had fled to distant tribes and were living in exile. The chief
had shut himself up, and allowed no one to come into his presence but his uncle Mamire. Ponwane, who had been as "head
and eyes" to him, had just died; evidence, he thought, of the
potent spells of those who hated all who loved the chief. The
country was suffering grievously, and Sebituane's grand empire
was crumbling to pieces. A large body of young Barotse had
revolted and fled to the north, killing a man by the way,
in order to put a blood-feud between Masiko, the chief to whom
they were going, and Sekeletu. The Batoka under Sinamane
and Muemba were independent, and Mashotlaie at the falls
was setting Sekeletu's authority virtually at defiance. Sebituane's
wise policy in treating the conquered tribes on equal terms with
his own Makololo, as all children of the chief, and equally eligible to the highest honors, had been abandoned by his son, who
married none but Makololo women, and appointed to office none
but Makololo men. He had become unpopular among the
black tribes, conquered by the spear but more effectually won by
the subsequent wise and just government of his father.
The utter overthrow of the Makololo dominion, which was
only four years in the future, was strongly foreshadowed in the
increasing discontent of the people. Strange rumors were afloat
respecting the unseen Sekeletu; his fingers were said to have
grown like eagle's claws, and his face so frightfully distorted
that no one could recognize him. Some had begun to hint that
he might not really be the son of the great Sebituane, the founder
of the nation, strong in battle and wise in the affairs of state.
" In the days of the Great Lion (Sebituane)," said his only sister,
Morianttsiane's widow, whose husband Sekeletu had killed, "we
had chiefs and little chiefs and elders to carry on the government, and the great chief, Sebituane, knew them all, and everything they did, and the whole country was wisely ruled; but
now Sekeletu knows nothing of what his underlings do, and
they care not for him, and the Makololo power is fast passing
away."
The native doctors had given the case of Sekeletu up. They




SICKNESS OF SEKELETU.                397
could not cure him, and pronounced the disease incurable. An old
doctress from the Manyeti tribe had come to see what she could
do for him, and on her skill he now hung his last hopes. She
allowed no one to see him except his mother and uncle, making
entire seclusion from society an essential condition of the much
longed-for cure. He sent, notwithstanding, for the doctor, who
found him  on the following day sitting in a covered wagon,
which was enclosed by a high wall of close-set reeds; his face
was only slightly disfigured by the thickening of the skin in
parts, where the leprosy had passed over it; and the only peculiarity about his hands was the extreme length of his fingernails, which, however, was nothing very much out of the way,
as all the Makololo gentlemen wear them  uncommonly long.
She was firmly convinced that he had been blewitched. "Moriantsiane," said he, "my aunt's husband, tried the bewitching
medicine first on his wife, and she is leprous, and so is her headservant; then, seeing that it succeeded, he gave me a stronger
dose in the cooked flesh of a goat, and I have had the disease
ever since. They have lately killed Ponwane, and, as you see,
are now killing me."  Ponwane had died of fever a short time
previously. Sekeletu asked for medicine and medical attendance, but the doctor did not like to take the case out of the
hands of the female physician already employed, it being bad
policy to appear to undervalue any of the profession; and she,
being anxious to go on with her remedies, said, "She had not
given him up yet, but would try for another month and if he
was not cured by that time she would hand him over to the
white doctors." She was, however, induced to resign her place
earlier, and the superior skill of her successors soon alleviated
the sufferings of the young chief considerably, but it had already
become too deeply rooted, and they could only lament in their
hearts that the glory which the wise Sebituane had bequeathed
to his people should go down under the inefficiency of a chief
whose vices had bound him in cords so painful and so fatal.
But incidents of deeper interest even than the illness of Sekeletu and the disaffection of his people had been wrought into
the history of Linyanti since Dr. Livingstone was there. It
will be remembered they had expressed a desire that a missionary might come and live with them, and had committed them



398                   THE MISSION.
selves to a removal from their deadly swamps to some healthier
locality. It had seemed very desirable to establish a mission
among these people because of the extent of their dominion, and
because at their capital Christian teachers would be in constant
intercourse with representatives of numerous tribes. Accordingly, the London Missionary Society, under whose auspices the
exploration of their country had been effected, undertook the
work of establishing a mission at the town of Linyanti, and
appointed Rev. Halloway Helmore, who had been seventeen
years a missionary among the Bechuanas, and associated with
him Messrs. Mackenzie and Price. These younger men, accompanied by gentle and true-hearted wives, who ventured to hope
that they could go where Mrs. Livingstone had gone, left England in June, 1858, and in July landed at the Cape. After
many trying experiences, the mission party at last reached the
scene of their appointment, in February, 1860. In August,
when Dr. Livingstone arrived, there was only the sad story of
their effort and a number of graves. They had come on the
ground in the most unfavorable season, and from the time of
their arrival were the victims of the prevailing fever of the place.
The account of their sufferings is a discouraging page in the
history of African missions, but we can hardly yield the convictions which have grown on us in following the experience of
Dr. Livingstone through the years of his intercourse with the
Makololo. The illness and bereavement through which the
survivor of the enterprise regarded the people could hardly fail
to give a darker shade to their characters. They doubtless suffered some wrongs in addition to the ravages of disease, but we
would much rather find the explanation of their sickness in the
deadly exhalations of the neighboring swamps than accept the
suggestion of poisoning; and with the accounts of Rev. John
Mackenzie and the " Travels of Livingstone" both before him,
we are convinced that a candid reader would feel confident that
the conduct of the people toward Mr. Price, after the death of
Mr. Helmore, might have found an explanation in some misunderstanding or mistake which would shield the actors from
the charge of so ungenerously plundering a bereaved and suffering guest. Certainly, however strongly the trials.and losses of
the enterprise may speak against the tribe whose elevation was




FAITHFULNESS OF THE PEOPLE.            399
sought by it, the testimony of Dr. Livingstone to the character,
customs and promise of the people in all the broad region which
then acknowledged the authority of Sekeletu is unshaken, while
his personal experience of their faithfulness and kindness cancels
that of his more unfortunate friends. There was no particular
reason why the chief who would deal so unjustly by the mission
party should so carefully cultivate the friendship of Livingstone.
There would have been no trouble in concocting an explanation
of their loss had he desired to appropriate the many valuable
articles which had been seven or eight years in his care. These
were found by Dr. Livingstone just as he left them; they had
been guarded most sacredly during four years, and the wagon
had stood there since 1853. Naturally enough, while his heart
grieved for the noble man who had fallen on the spot, after
laying two dear children and a devoted wife under the strange
sod, and while he sympathized deeply with those who had shared
the suffering, only escaping withl their lives, his greatest anxiety
was that the interest of the world might not be diminished by
the accounts of their misfortunes. And it could hardly be expected that, however much he might lament the faults he knew
they had, he should forget the services they had done him, or
ignore their expressions of esteem and confidence. When he
went over to Linyanti he was escorted by men furnished by Sekeletu, and rode the chiefs own horse. When he arrived, the
head men, Mosale and Pekonyane, received him cordially, and
lamented that they had so little to offer him. Oh, had he only
arrived the year previous, when there was abundance of milk
and corn and beer!
Very early the next morning the old town-crier, Ma-Pulenyane, of his own accord made a public proclamation, which, in
tile perfect stillness of the town long before dawn, was striking:
"I have dreamed! I have dreamed! I have dreamed! Thou,
Mosale, and thou, Pekonyane, my lords, be not faint-hearted,
nor let your hearts be sore, but believe all the words of Monare
(the doctor), for his heart is white as milk towards the Makololo.
I dreamed that he was coming, and that the tribe would live if
you prayed to God and gave heed to the word of Monare."
Ma-Pulenyane showed Dr. Livingstone the burying-place where
poor Helmore and seven others were laid, distinguishing those




400               KINDNESS CONTINUED.
whom lie had put to rest and those for whom Mafale had performed that last office. Nothing whatever marked the spot,
and, with the native idea of hiding the dead, it was said, " it will
soon be all overgrown with bushes, for no one will cultivate
there."  None but Ma-Pulenyane approached the place: the
others stood at a respectful distance; they invariably avoid everything connected with death, and no such thing as taking portions
of human bodies to make charms of, as is the custom farther
north, has ever been known among the Makololo.
When the wagon was left eight years before, several loose
articles, as the medicine-chest, magic lantern, tools, and books,
were given by Sekeletu into the, charge of his wives. Everything was now found in safety. The wagon was in sufficiently
good condition for the doctor to sleep in, though the covering
had partly rotted off, and, when the chief was absent at the
Barotse, the white ants had destroyed one of the wheels. Sekeletu's wives, Seipone and Mantu, without being asked, cooked
abundance of good beef, and baked a large supply of little cakes
after the pattern which the Makololo, who went to Loanda, had
brought back to them. With gentle reproaches for not bringing
"Ma-Robert," or Mrs. Livingstone, they repeated some of the
prattle of her children in Sechuana, and said, "Are we never
more to know anything of them but their names?"
Sekeletu was well pleased with the various articles brought
for him, and inquired if a ship could not bring his sugar-mill
and the other goods which had been of necessity left behind at
Tete. On hearing that there was a possibility of a powerful
steamer ascending as far as Sinamane's, but never above the
Grand Victoria falls, he asked,:vith charming simplicity, if a
cannon could not blow away the falls, so as to allow the vessel
to come up to Sesheke.
He was also as urgent as ever that the doctor would make
his home with him; but he could not offer such inducements as
had surrounded the home of his illustrious father. His feeble
health and foolish policy had left very little of the man or the
chieftain about him. And though he recognized the importance
of seeking a home in a more salubrious atmosphere he trembled
at the thought of quitting his fastnesses, at a time when the
growing disaffection of the subject tribes threatened to leave him




RETURN TO TETE.                  401
so soon with only a remnant of his strength. But it was out of
the question for Dr. Livingstone to think of even a protracted
visit. The new steamer for which he had petitioned his government was expected to arrive at the Kongone in November, and
it was necessary that he should hasten thither. He was still firm
in his belief that there could be found no more desirable field
for missionary work. There were difficulties, but none which
would not be surmounted gradually by wise and active laborers.
The seaward journey occupied about two months, and it was
toward the end of November when they reached Tete, and the
Zambesi was then so low that they were compelled to wait until
December before they could go on to the Kongone, where they
arrived on the 4th of January, 1861. The expected vessel was
behind time, and there was nothing to be done but to wait as
patiently as possible for her arrival. In such a focus of decaying vegetation nothing was to be dreaded so much as inactivity,
and they were compelled to seek exercise and amusement in
hunting and searching about the fetid swamps. Indeed in all
parts of Africa, as elsewhere, an active life has been found the
safest. A mind fully occupied and hands full of work are the
surest precautions against the subtle enemy which lurks in tliose
vast wildernesses. On the 31st of January, 1861, their new
ship, the " Pioneer," arrived from England and anchored outside the bar; but the weather'was stormy and she did not venture
in till the 4th of February.
Two of her Majesty's cruisers came at the same time, bringing
Bishop Mackenzie and the Oxford and Cambridge mission to
the tribes of the Shire and Lake Nyassa. The mission consisted
of six Englishmen and five colored men from the Cape. It was
a puzzle to know what to do with so many men. The estimable
bishop, anxious to commence his workc without delay, wished
the " Pioneer " to carry the mission up the Shire as far as Chibisa's, and there leave them. But there were grave olbjections
to this. The "Pioneer" was under orders to explore the Rovuma, as the Portuguese government had refused to open the
Zambesi to the ships of other nations, and their officials were
very effectually pursuing a system which, by abstracting the
labor, was rendering the country of no value either to foreigners
or to themselves. She was already two months behind her




402                   THE ROVUMA.
time, and the rainy season was half over. Then, if the party were
taken to Chibisa's, the mission would be left without a medical
attendant, in an unhealthy region, at the beginning of the most
sickly season of the year, and without means of reaching the
healthy highlands or of returning to the sea. In the absence of
medical aid, and all knowledge of the treatment of fever, it was
feared that there might be a repetition of the sorrowful fate
which befell the similar non-medical mission at Linyanti. The
bishop at last consented to proceed in the " Lyra" man-of-war
to Johanna, and there leave the members of the mission with
her Majesty's consul, Mr. Sunley, while he himself should accompany the expedition up the Rovuma, in order to ascertain
whether the country around its head-waters, which were reported
to flow out of Nyassa, was a suitable place for a settlement.
On the 25th of February the "Pioneer" anchored in the
mouth of the Rovuma, which, unlike most African rivers, has
a magnificent bay and no bar. The scenery on the lower part
of the Rovuma was found superior to that on the Zambesi, for
they could easily see the highlands from the sea. Eight miles
from the mouth the mangroves are left behind, and a beautiful
range of well-wooded hills on each bank begins. On these
ridges the tree resembling African blackwood, of finer grain
than ebony, grows abundantly and attains a large size. Few
people were seen, and those were of Arab breed, and did not
appear to be very well off. The current of the Rovuma was now
as strong as that of the Zambesi, but the volume of water is very
much less. Several of the crossings had barely water enough
for the ship, drawing five feet, to pass. Unfortunately, however,
they had suffered' a detention, and when they had ascended a
short distance found the river falling rather rapidly, and they
were obliged to give up their proposed exploration for the season.
Hastening back to the sea, they returned to the Kongone, and
sailed again up the Zambesi to the Shire. They had complained
so much of their former vessel that they were unwilling to find
a fault with the new one, but their progress was greatly impeded
by her draught of water; five feet was found to be too much for
the navigation of the upper part of the Shire. But after much
difficulty they reached Chibisa's; there was a general feeling of
relief when the anchor was cast in the old spot where the " Ma



THE UNIVERSITY S MISSION.             403
Robert" had rested in the former time, and all hands congratulated each other that so far at least there was occasion for gratitude. The history of the " University's Mission," by Rev. Henry
Rowly, is hardly more encouraging than the effort at Linyanti.
But there ought not to have been felt to be any vindication in
need of men who had proven their zeal by most arduous labors
and painful sacrifices, and their faithfulness by at last laying
their lives on the altar of the cause they had espoused. Nor ought
it to be necessary to find a solution of the calamitous termination of
it, aside from the absolute difficulty of a noble enterprise.
The hearts of Christians ought to be so set on the salvation of
the heathen that they will not hesitate to face the most fatal
diseases and the most unfriendly receptions in the prosecution
of their work. The real explanation of the misfortunes of the
devoted members of the Shire mission can hardly be found in
the unfriendliness of the natives or the unhealthiness of the
country. They settled there at a time when the country was
suffering a most distressing series of depredations. The Ajawa,
encouraged by the Portuguese, were burning and plundering the
upper Manganja country. From the time of their arrival there
was no time of quiet. The general unrest and excitement was
unfavorable, and they were ultimately driven for safety into the
lower country to be the prey of the relentless fevers. As far
as possible, Dr. Livingstone encouraged and aided them, but he
served the government, whose claims could not be neglected.
As soon therefore as they could perform such services for their
friends as seemed most urgent, and had seen them safely on the
spot which the good Bishop Mackenzie had selected, Drs. Livingstone and Kirk, with Charles Livingstone, started for Lake
Nyassa, furnished with a light four-oared gig, a white sailor and
a score of attendants. And it may be interesting to the reader,
that people readily engaged to carry the boat forty miles for a
cubic of cotton cloth a day! When they had passed the last of
the cataracts they launched their boat " for good" on the Shire,
and passed easily and peacefully on to the lake, and sailed into
it on the 2d of September. It was found to be over two hundred miles long and from twenty to sixty wide, a deep sea-like
shade resting on its surface. They had never before seen in
Africa anything like the dense population which thronged its




404                 ON LAKE NYASSA.
shores. Their first impression of these lake dwellers was that
they were downright lazy; groups could be seen during the day
lying fast asleep under the shade of the trees along the shore,
apparently taking the world very easily, but a better acquaintance with them  revealed the fact that these forenoon sleepers
had been at work during the greater part of the night. In the
afternoon they begin to bestir themselves; examining and mending their nets, carrying them to the canoes, and coiling in their
lines. In the evening they paddle off to the best fishing station,
and throughout most of the night the poor fellows are toiling
in the water, dragging their nets.
Though there are many crocodiles in the lake, and some of
an extraordinary size, the fishermen say that it is a rare thing
for any one to be carried off by these reptiles. When crocodiles
can easily obtain abundance of fish —their natural food-they
seldom attack men; but when unable to see to catch their
prey, from the muddiness of the water in floods, they are very
dangerous.
In character and general appearance the lake tribes were
found to be very much like the tribes among whom they had
already travelled. Their scanty clothing was partly of cotton
and partly of a sort of cloth woven fiom bark. The ornamentation of their persons was of course a matter of special pride
and delight.
At different points along the shore they found the established
slave-crossing places, and only at such places were they at all
annoyed. The lake slave-trade was going on at a terrible rate,
and the higher they went the more deeply the travellers realized
the horrors of a trade which encourages every vice and withers
every beauty, and paralyzes every energy of the afflicted land
over which it drags its accursed chain.
Having spent nearly two months on the lake, and feeling
amply repaid for their toil in the encouragement they had experienced concerning the future of the great continent, they returned to the ship, which they reached on the 8th of November.
The bishop came down from Magomero to meet them, and it
was a joy indeed to see him in such good spirits.
On returning to Tete, it was ascertained that the Portuguese
government had given such instructions to the slaving parties




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DEATH OF MRS. LIVINGSTONE.             407
within their territory as would make it impossible for the
expedition to pursue their work at all peacefully, and their attention was again turned to the Rovuma, and they landed at
Shupanga,' with a view of perfecting such preparation as the exploration of that river might call for. The fever was prevailing
considerably at the time, and about the middle of April Mrs.
Livingstone was prostrated by this disease; and it was accompanied by obstinate vomiting. Nothing is yet known that can
allay this distressing symptom, which of course renders medicine
of no avail, as it is instantly rejected. She received whatever
medical aid could be rendered from Dr. Kirk, but became unconscious, and her eyes were closed in the sleep of death as the
sun set on the evening of the Christian Sabbath, the 27th of
April, 1862. A coffin was made during the night, a grave was
dug next day under the branches of the great baobab tree, and
with sympathizing hearts the little band of his countrymen assisted the bereaved husband in buryiiig his dead. At his request, the Rev. James Stewart, who had come out as the agent
of the Free Church of Scotland to view the country before attempting a mission, read the burial service; and the seamen
kindly volunteered to mount guard for some nights at the spot
where her body rests in hope. Those who are not aware how
this brave, good, English wife made a delightful home at Kolobeng, a thousand miles inland from the Cape, and as the daughter
of Moffat and a Christian lady exercised most beneficial influence over the rude tribes of the interior, may wonder that she
should have braved the dangers and toils of this down-trodden
land. She knew them all, and, in the disinterested and dutiful
attempt to renew her labors,.was called to her rest instead.
The expedition had worked under many disadvantages, and
in the face of difficulties which would have discouraged less
resolute men. They had been generously treated by their
government, but unfortunately their first boat was a burlesque
on the name, and the " Pioneer " was unadapted to the waters
on which she was to sail. Besides the delays and embarrassments growing out of their equipment, the Portuguese jealousy
found expression in many discouragements, and the vigorous
revival of the slave-trade more than neutralized their influence
on the natives over whom its degrading influence extended.




408               THE ROVUMA AGAIN.
When they were at last put in possession of the "Lady Nyassa"
-the little iron steamer with which they proposed to force their
way up the rapids of the Zambesi and the Shire —the season
had so far advanced that they could not think of that undertaking until another flood time, which would involve inevitably
a delay of several months; and it was decided to attempt again
the exploration of the Rovuma, which was reported to flow from
Lake Nyassa. They were the more anxious to find out the
truth of this report, because such a discovery would put them in
communication with the vast fertile regions about the lake and
along the Upper Shire, by a path free from the annoyance of
Lisbon taxation. Accordingly they set out about the 1st of
September, 1862, on a journey which occupied about one
month. The results of this expedition were not gratifying,
though much more satisfactory than their former effort. They
ascended without serious difficulty about one hundred and fifty
miles, where they encountered the peculiar obstructions which
seem to belong to all African rivers. The river became narrow
and rocky, and further navigation was found impossible. Few
incidents occurred which would interest the reader.
The valley was about four miles wide and bounded on each
side by a range of high hills. During the first week very few
people were seen. Their villages were all concealed in the
thick jungles on the hill-sides for protection from marauding
slave parties. The absence of bird or animal life was remarkable, and the shallow, winding channel, in the midst of absolute
stillness, was cheerless indeed.  The language of the people
differed considerably from that in use on the Zambesi, though
it seemed to be of the same family. The customs of the people,
as far as ascertained, were not unlike those along the other
rivers-the same love of ornament and the follies of fashion.
Hunting the senze-an animal about the size of a large cat, but
in shape more resembling a pig-was the chief business of men
and boys along the reedy banks. In this singular sport they
set fire to a mass of reeds, and, armed with sticks, spears, bows
and arrows, stand in groups guarding the outlets through which
the scared senze may run from the approaching flames. Dark,
dense volumes of impenetrable smoke now roll over on the lee
side of the islet, and shroud the hunters. At times vast sheets




I N.................................................................
MA:xl-.:l.*,:iXeX*i:7.....................
RN.........................................................................................








SCENES ON THE ROVUMA.                 411
of lurid flames bursting, forth, roaring, crackling and exploding,
leap wildly far above the tall reeds. Out rush the terrified
animals, and amid the smoke are seen the excited hunters dancing about with frantic gesticulations, and hurling stick, spear
and arrow at their burned-out victims.  Kites hover over the
smoke, ready to pounce on the mantis and locusts as they spring
from the fire. Small crows and hundreds of swallows are on
eager wing, darting into the smoke and out again, seizing fugitive flies. Scores of insects, in their haste to escape from the
fire, jump into the river, and the active fish enjoy a rare feast.
Great quantities of excellent honey are collected along the
river by bark hives placed for the bees on high trees which line
the banks. A few pieces of coal were also picked up. And
there was little doubt that, but for the slave-trade, which finds
one of its principal outlets eastward through this section, the
people would be easily led to higher grades of being. And it
was equally evident that they: occupied a country which would
repay with its offerings all the attention which friendly nations
might bestow on its benighted occupants.  But the Rovuma is
less promising as an avenue to the interior than the Shire or
the Zambesi, and the expedition was constrained to give upthe
hope of reaching the lake by that route, and returned again to
the Zambesi to battle again with the ills they knew.
They ascended the Shire in January, 1863, and passed along
amidst the dreadcfil traces of the recent ravages of Mariano, who
was again in the field as "the great Portuguiese slave agent."
Dead bodies floated past them  daily, and in the mornings the
paddles had to be cleared of the corpses caught by the floats
during the night. For scores of miles the entire population of
the valley had been swept away by the inhuman agent of a
government called civilized, called Christian.  It made the
heart ache to see the wide-spread desolation; the river banks,
once so populous, all silent; the villages burned down, and an
oppressive stillness reigning where formerly crowds of eager
sellers appeared with the various products of their industry.
Here and there might be seen on the bank a small, dreary,
deserted shed, where had sat, day after day, a starving fisherman, until the rising waters drove the fish from their wonted
haunts, and left him to die. Tingane had been defeated; his
21




412            DESOLATION ON THE SHIRE.
people had been killed, kidnapped, and forced to flee from their
villages.  There were a few wretched survivors in a village
above the Ruo; but the majority of the population was dead.
The sight and smell of dead bodies were everywhere. Many
persons lay beside the path, where in their weakness they had
fallen and expired. Ghastly living forms of boys and girls,
with dull, dead eyes, were crouching beside some of the huts.
A few more miserable days of their terrible hunger, and they
would be with the dead.  Words could not convey an adequate
idea of the scene of wide-spread desolation which the once pleasanrt valley of the Shire presented. Instead of smiling villages
and crowds of people coming with things for sale, scarcely a
soul. was to be seen; and when by chance one lighted on a
native, his frame bore the impress of hunger, and his countenance the look of a cringing broken-spiritedness. A drought
llad visited the land after the slave-hunting panic swept over it.
Large masses of people had fled down to the Shire, only
anxious to get the river between them and their enemies. Most
of the food had been left behind; and famine and starvation had
cut off so many that the remainder were too few to bury the
dead. The corpses seen floating down the river were only a
remnant of those that had perished, whom their friends, from
weakness, could not bury, nor over-gorged crocodiles devour.
It is true that fatmine caused a great portion of this waste of
human life; but the slave-trade was deemed the chief agent in
the ruin. The few wretched survivors were overpowered by an
apathetic lethargy.  They attempted scarcely ally cultivation,
which, for people so given to agriculture as they are, was very
remarkable; they were seen daily devouring the corn-stalks
which had sprung up in the old plantations, and which would,
if let alone, have yielded corn in a month. They could not be
aroused from their lethargy. Famine benumbs all the faculties. The effort was made to induce some to exert themselves
to procure food, but failed. They had lost all their former
spirit, and with lacklustre eyes, scarcely meeting those of their
friends, and in whining tones, replied to every proposition for
their benefit-" No, no!"  ("Ai! ai ")
Human skeletons were seen in every direction, and it was
painfully interesting to observe the different postures in which




GRAVE OF BISHOP MACKENZIE.              413
the poor wretches had breathed their last. A whole heap had
been thrown down a slope behind a village, where the fugitives
often crossed the river from the east; and in one hut of the
same village no fewer than twenty drums had been collected,
probably the ferryman's fees. Many had ended their misery
under shady trees, others under projecting crags in the hills,
while others lay in their huts, with closed doors, which, when
opened, disclosed the mouldering corpse with the poor rags
round the loins-the skull fallen off the pillow-the little skeleton of the child, that had perished first, rolled up in a mat
between two large skeletons.  The sight of this desert, but
eighteen months ago a well-peopled valley, now literally strewn
with human bones, forced the conviction that the destruction of
human life in the middle passage, however great, constituted
but a small portion of the waste, and left no grounds for hope
that a lawfill commerce might be established until the slavetrade, which had so long brooded over Africa, should be put
down.
In the midst of these shocking scenes the party visited the
grave of good Bishop Mackenzie. He had given his heart in
sincerity to Africa, and it was sorrowful indeed to know that all
the fond and noble hopes which had clustered round him as he
left the classic grounds of Cambridge were all buried in a place
so wild and so desolate. But on what nobler altar can a man
lay down his life?  Who shall talk of "waste of precious lives,"
which are sacrificed in carrying the gospel of Christ to the
heathen, since " Christ has died? "  Who knows but those who
fall soonest, and in the severest trials, shall in the last day be
allowed to lead up the hosts of Christ's ransomed ones out of
the ends of the earth to the throne of the King?
There was now added, to the difficulties which had existed
before, the disadvantage of having to bring all supplies from the
Zambesi. It was impossible to purchase food. To accomplish
much under such circumstances was impossible; and the only
plan which offered anything like success was to pass the rapids
and get among the tribes dwelling about the foot of the lake,
who had been exempt from the ravages which had made a
desert of the valley.
In the midst of preparations for this journey a despatch was




414                    HOMEWARD.
received from Earl Russell containing instructions for the withdrawal of the expedition, and there could be but little else
attempted during the short time which must elapse before the
condition of the river would justify the attempt to take the
" Pioneer" down to the sea. The work of the expedition had
come to be little better than a struggle with the slave-trade.
The breaking up of that evil was the absorbing idea of the
members of it.  It could hardly have been otherwise.  The
humanity of Englishmen and Christians could but arise against
such barbarities as confronted them in every path they selected.
The short journey to the northwest, which extended as far as
the village of Chinanga, on the banks of a branch of the
Loangwa, only deepened the conviction of the utter hopelessness of all enterprises which might seek the improvement of the
people and the utilization of the country until the land should
be relieved of the fatal traffic which flourished everywhere by
the patronage of Portugal.
It is no wonder that Dr. Livingstone turned again toward
the sea with anything but friendly feelings toward a government whose " dog in the manger " spirit had made six precious
years, years of pain and comparative disappointment.
MISSION CHAPEL ON THE SHIRE.




CHAPTER XX.
TEIE BEGIN-NING OF THE END.
Zambesi Expedition Unsatisfactory-Zanzibar - Trade from Zanzibar-The
Outfit-Rovuma Bay-Kindany-The Makonde-Rnemarkable VegetationCutting Right Valiantly-Rage for Doctorship-Mohammedan InfluenceLying Guides-Along the Rovuma-Troubles with Followers-Gum-Copal
Tree-Extravagant Tattooing-Top of the Fashion-At Nyoinano-The SlaveTrade-The Makoa-A Woman Rescued-Horrors of the Trade in SlavesCurrency for Africa-Extracts from Journal-A Deserted Village-A Model
Town of Africa.
NOBODY was thoroughly satisfied with the Zambesi expedition.  It had cost considerable sums of money, much precious
time had been consumed, and some very valuable iives had been
sacrificed, while comparatively little progress had been made in
finding out the country, the anticipations of advantageous commercial relations greatly disappointed, and missionary enthusiasm discoulraged.  There were however some important discoveries made: the fruitfulness of the soil was confirmed, the
mineral resources much more accurately ascertained, and the
real enemy of African civilization brought more distinctly into
view. There was certainly no want of patient and heroic labor,
brave endurance and wise counsel.  In none of the records of
his noble life have we been more impressed with the real greatness of David Livingcrstone than in reviewing the journals of the
wearying, unsatisfactory years of this expedition.  The difficulties with which he contended were only recognized by him
when human energy could do no more, and even then he suspended,his labors only in obedience to the authority which he
represented.
The little time which he allowed himself at home was hardly
a season of rest. Besides the preparation of his " Zambesi Expedition " for the press, he felt constrained to do all in his power
in those few months to revive the popular interest in the Afri415




416              ARRIVAL AT ZANZIBAR.
can question, alnd to arouse popular sentiment against the African
slave-trade, which he had been forced to recognize as the most
stubborn and powerful enemy of all those schemes of benevolence which were springing up in the hearts of Christians for that
unfavored land. The days were full of labor and anxiety, and
passed rapidly.
On the 14th of August, 1865, Livingstone left England for
the third and last time, under commission as British Consul for
Central Africa. He reached Bombay on the 3d of January,
1866, and having received commendatory letters to the sultan
of Zanzibar, sailed for that island in the " Thule," a vessel which
was sent as a present to the sultan by the Bombay government.
Twenty-three days were required for the passage, and on the
28th of January the ship entered the harbor of Zanzibar. Dr,
Livingstone was shown all possible respect, and the sultan immediately put one of his own houses at his disposal. Snugly
ensconced in this temporary home, he had a little time to look
about him, and complete his preparations for the interior.
Zanzibar is the Bagdad, the Ispahan, the Stamboul, if you
like, of East Africa. It is the great mart which invites the
ivory traders from the African interior. To this market come
the gum-copal, the hides, the orchilla, the timber, and the black
slaves from Africa. The population of the island hardly exceeds two hundred thousand; about half of' this number reside
in the city. Tile higher and middle classes are represented by
the Arabs, the Banyans, and the Mohammedan Hindis; below
these there are the half-castes and the negro. There are, besides
these classes, a number of American and European residents.
These are mainly government officials, though a number of independent merchants and agents of great mercantile houses in
Europe and America have their homes in the strange surroundings of this strangest of towns. The Arabs of Zanzibar are
Arabs, just as they would be anywhere on earth. The Arab
never changes; wherever he goes he carries the customs, dress,
and characteristic peculiarities which distinguish the exactest
representatives of his race in their own countries. Nearly all
of those who are seen in Zanzibar are experienced travellers, and
their very countenances and carriage tell of strange and perilous
adventures and habitual wariness and courage.




TRADE AT ZANZIBAR.                 417
The principal traders, however, of Zanzibar seem to be the
Banyans. Many of these have accumulated great wealth, and
it is in their power to take advantage of tile poorer natives who
come into their hands with their fruits or ivory, just as the rich
may wrong the poor anywhere. The negro is the laboring man
of the island, and the half-caste is the rascal.
The particular line of trade which attracts the attention of
the European traveller most anxiously is that of the slave markets. It taxes the credulity of the most skeptical to accept the
statements of even the most reliable travellers concerning the
enormous profits which tempt so powerfully the unscrupulous
to this barbarous business. Mr. Stanley, who looked about him
with the eyes of an accomplished reporter for one of the most
careful journals of our time, has in his book a paragraph which
puts the matter most tellingly: " We will suppose," says he,
"' for the sake of illustrating how trade with the interior is managed, that the Arab conveys by his caravan $5000 worth of
goods into the interior. At Unyanyembe the goods are worth
$10,000; at Ujiji they are worth $15,000, or have trebled in
price. $7.50 will purchase a slave in the markets of Ujiji,
which will bring, in Zanzibar, $30.  Ordinary men-slaves
may be purchased for $6 which would sell for $25 on the
coast. We will say he purchases slaves to the full extent of his
means. After deducting $1500 for expenses of carriage to
Ujiji and back —viz., $3500-he would buy, at $7.50 each, four
hundred and sixty-four slaves, on which he would realize
$13,920 on an investment of $5000, or nearly $9000 net profit
for a single journey from Zanzibar to Ujiji." At the slave
market at Zanzibar, Dr. Livingstone found three hundred slaves
exposed for sale, the greater part. of whom had come from'Lake
Nyassa and the Shire river. One of the women remembered
hearing of his passing up the lake in a boat, but he found none
in the company whom he had seen before. The patience of the
man whose heart had been so long set for the lifting up of
Africa was hardly increased by the scenes which came so frequently before him in these markets. He says that "those of
the slaves who were old enough to comprehend their situation
seemed greatly ashamed at being hawked about for sale. Their
teeth were examined, the cloth which they wore was raised up




418           THE OUTFIT FOR EXPEDITION.
that their lower limbs might be examined, and a stick was
tossed for the slave to bring that he might exhibit his paces.
Others were dragged through the crowd by the hand, while the
price was incessantly called out. The purchasers of these unhappy beings were mostly northern Arabs and Persians."
But entertaining as the scenes of that strange city must be to
an intelligent traveller, Dr. Livingstone walked its streets with
heart and mind absorbed with a greater work than that of an
ordinary observer, and every moment of time spent in Zanzibar
was coveted for the dearer work he had to do in the heart of the
great continent whose dark outline was only a few miles away.
Having finally arranged with Koorje, a Banyan, to send a
supply of beads, cloth, flour, tea, coffee, and sugar, to Ujiji, on
Lake Taganyika, to the care of an Arab living there, called
Thani bin Suelim, and having perfected other arrangements for
his journey, Livingstone took leave of the generous sultan and
other friends on the island. I-le had secured a dhow, one of the
coasting vessels of East Africa, for transporting the animals for
the expedition; of these there were six camels, three buffaloes
and a calf, two mules and four donkeys. His attendants were
thirteen Sepoys, ten Johanna men, nine Nassick boys, two Shupanga men, and Wakalani and Chuma, two Wayans, boys who
had been liberated from the slavers by the doctor and Bishop
Mackenzie in 1861, and had spent three years with the mission
party at Chibisa. Several others of the men had been with Dr.
Livingstone in his former expeditions.  Musa, a Johanna man,
was a sailor on the " Lady Nyassa Susi," and Amoda had rendered service on the " Pioneer." The Nassick lads were all entire
strangers, and had been trained in India.
By the kindness of Lieutenant Garforth, the doctor and his
followers were offered passage to the mouth of the Rovuma in
the ship " Penguin," and under date of March 19th, 1866, we find
the opening entrance in the journal of this expedition, toward
which the eyes of the world turned so long and anxiously, in a
few words full of the spirit of the great and good man: " We
start this morning at iO A. M. I trust that the Most High may
prosper me in this work, granting me influence in the eyes of
the heathen, and helping me to make my intercourse beneficial
to them."




ROVUMA BAY.                     419
On the 22d they reached Rovuma bay, and anchored about
two miles from the mouth of the river, in five fathoms water.
Two or three days careful inspection of the river and the neighboring lands was enough to reveal the fact that there would be
very great difficulty in conveying the animals to the interior by
that route, and, following the advice of Lieutenant Garforth and
the captain of the dhow, the party turned back to Mikindany
bay, which lies twenty-five miles north of Rovuma, and on the
evening of the 24th landed all. the animals and bade farewell to
the noble gentleman who had so kindly assisted them with his
ship. Our great traveller was now once more safely on African
soil, and the great sea ebbing and flowing heedlessly between
him and the sympathies and affection of all who could in any
sort appreciate his noble self-sacrifice or comprehend the nature
and importance of his undertakings. But he was inured to the
dangers, the privations, the loneliness and toils of travel. He
was self-reliant, and needed little else than the freedom to look
up to give him confidence. He did not underrate the difficulties of African travel, he knew them too well; but it was his
theory that " the sweat of one's brow is no longer a curse when
one works for God," and he had become accustomed to appreciate severe exertion because it enhanced the charms of repose.
The town of Kindany, as a starting point for a great expedition, was no better than no place; the only advantage it offered
was that which would have existed as well had there been no
town there. The harbor is described as unsurpassed, if indeed
it is equalled, by any on the coast. It his entered by a deep
narrow channel, and inside, sheltered by semicircular highlands,
is the deep bay, about two miles square, where vessels enjoy
uncommon security from the winds which so often fall mercilessly on the small coasting ships of the region. There are a
number of' houses lying along this bay, small square structures
of wattle and daub; but there would be no evidence that the
harbor had been in use, or even known before the recent settlement of its present claimants, if a few lingering ruins had not
endured the wear of centuries with their hints of an old time.
The people who live in the small square houses-the present
IKindanians-are the poorest possible specimens of the genus
homo, "the low-coast Arabs, three-quarters African."  They are




420                     ICINDANY.
after a fashion the subjects of Zanzibar; their jemnida acknowledges the authority of the sultan, and their insignificant customs
are presided over by an officer from Zanzibar.
The animals which had been conveyed to the coast in the
dhow were considerably knocked up by the voyage, and some
time elapsed while they were getting over their wounds and
bruises and fatigue. The delay was put in usefully, however,
in the manufacture of camels' saddles and repairing those for
the mules and buffaloes.
Nature has been more lavish of her favors at Kindany than
at other points along the coast. The land is higher, and the
soil is almost half coral.  "Coral rock underlies the whole
place," and the rills in this rock afford good water. A dense
tropical vegetation prevails on every hand, and conspicuofis in
the various wonders of it stands the great baobab. Great numbers of large game are seen about the numerous water-pools,
and the nominal traders of the town have so little industry that
there is hardly anything to relieve the heathendom look of the
region.
After enjoying innumerable promises of service without
receiving the slightest assistance, Livingstone set out on his
journey, bearing southward in the direction of the Rovuma
river, with a Somalie guide, who was to receive twenty dollars
for taking him as far as Nyomano, the confluence of the Loendi
and Rovuma.
An enemy which the doctor had hoped to escape on this route
was in waiting for him, and before he had travelled a dozen
miles it was ascertained that the buffaloes and camels had been
bitten by the tsetse. The progress was painfully slow at best,
and it was a matter of serious anxiety to be threatened with so
great a disaster as the loss of his animals so early in the journey.
Being himself unused to camels, it was necessary to intrust them
to the Sepoys almost entirely, and it was soon apparent they
were exceedingly careless of the comfort and safety of their
charge.  Added to this —true to the familiar maxim, that
" troubles never come singly "-the road they had to make lay
through dense jungles, where the axe must do its work before
the camels and buffaloes could possibly advance.
The native occupants of this region are known as Makonde.




THE MAKONDE.                    421
Their numbers have been greatly diminished by the slave-trade;
only a remnant, comparatively, of them are left. Here and
there the traveller emerged suddenly on a little clearing adorned
with gardens of sorghum, maize and cassava. The people were
much more interested in the strange animals of the unexpected
visitors than in the human members of the cavalcade; even the
white man himself did not attract such attention as the ungainly
camels. The Makonde proved themselves a pleasant people
and industrious, ready to turn an honest yard of calico as woodchoppers or carriers. They have been the prey of the Arabs
from Zanzibar, just as their neighbors lower down the coast
have been the prey of the Portuguese. They have no common
government. There is no paramount chief whose authority is
recognized.  They are all independent, and bear themselves
independently enough. Of their personal appearance Livingstone says: "Their foreheads may be called compact, narrow,
and rather low; the alce nasi expanded laterally; lips full, not
excessively thick; limbs and body well formed, hands and feet
small; color dark and light brown; height middle sized and
bearing independent." Their language is very unlike that of
the half-castes who constitute the population of Kindany,
though their intercourse with the Arabs has extended considerable familiarity with Swaheli among the Makonde.  The
foreign influence has done nothing toward the enlightenment of
the natives. There was the ruin of a mosque seen at Kindany;
but the Arabs are in the country for gain; they mingle with the
natives in the most intimate relations; there is no tradition of
their attempting to convert them. The natives might congratulate themselves, however, on the remissness of their visitors in
this regard; for if Dr. Livingstone judged rightly, African barbarism would be degraded by the assumption of Arab virtues.
The trade road, which is a path only, was along the wadys,
frequently ascending the neighboring heights to take in a village,
and down again to another by the dry channel. The soil along
the route was remarkably fertile. As they penetrated the country, some of the cassava bushes were seven feet high, and the
pleasing sight of really heavy crops of sorghum  and maize
awaited the surprise and delight of the observer at every clearing. The whole region bore traces of having been open and in




422             WONDERFUL VEGETATION.
a state of cultivation in former times. There is a noticeable
scarcity of larger vegetation, and the dense, matted, scrubby
crop which resisted their progress so stubbornly that even the
native choppers sometimes were almost discouraged, had only
sprung up since the slave-trade had done its devastating work.
Some of the twining, thorny contestants of the ground, which
annoyed Dr. Livingstone most unmercifully, suggested a little
reverence for Mr. Darwin's hints about vegetable instinct. One
particularly he said "'might be likened to the scabbard of a
dragoon's sword; but along the middle of the flat side runs a
ridge from which springs up every few inches a bunch of inchlong straight, sharp thorns. It hangs straight for a couple of
yards; but as if it could not thus give its thorns a fair chance
of mischief, it suddenly bends on itself, and all its cruel points
are presented at right angles with their former position. It
seems bent on mischief, and displays almost malicious deliberation in hanging out its cruel, tangled limbs, which are sure to
inflict severe injury on an unwary traveller. Other climbers
are found so tough that no hand can break them. One appears
at its roots a young tree; but true to the straggling habits of its
class, its shoots may be seen fifty or sixty feet off, weaving
themselves into the common cordage of the neighborhood.
"Another climber is like the leaf of an aloe, but convoluted
as strangely as shavings from  the plane of a carpenter. It is
dark green in color, and when its bark is taken off it is beautifully striated beneath, lighter and darker green, like the rings
of growth on wood; still another is a thin string with a succession of large knobs, and another has its bark pinched up all
round at intervals so as to present a great many cutting edges.
One sort need scarcely be mentioned, in which all along its
length are strong bent hooks, placed in a way that will hold
one if it can but grapple with him, for that is very common and
not like those mentioned, which the rather seem to be stragglers
from the carboniferous period of geologists, when pachydermata
wriggled unscathed among tangled masses worse than these."
Dr. Livingstone had employed about ten jolly young Makonde to deal with these prehistoric plants in their own way,
for they are accustomed to clearing spaces for gardens, and went
at the work with a will, using tomahawks well adapted for the




-    #a/4;;=_~~= —-— = —-== —AFRICA    JUNG~C~B~'~ —-.Lr                 LEr~~a   (pagers~a~,,,rauvrlr~ 340)                                   i4~a~








CUTTING VALIANTLY.                 425
work. They whittled away right manfully, taking an axe
when any trees had to be cut. Their pay, arranged beforehand,
was to be one yard of calico per day: this was not much, seeing
they were still so near the sea-coast. Climbers and young
trees melted before them like a cloud before the sun!
They now began to descend the northern slope down to the
Rovuma, and a glimpse could occasionally be had of the country; it seemed covered with great masses of dark green forest,
but the undulations occasionally looked like hills, and here and
there a sterculia had put on yellow foliage in anticipation of the
coming winter. More frequently the vision was circumscribedl
to a few yards till the merry woodcutters made the pleasant
scene of a long vista fit for camels to pass: as a whole, the
jungle would have made the authors of the natty little hints to
travellers smile at their own productions, good enough, perhaps,
where one has an open country with trees and:hills, by which
to take bearings, estimate distances, see thaftone point is on the
same latitude, another on the same longitude with such another,
and all to be laid down fair and square with protractor and
compass; but popular hints hardly hold good while a man is
struggling for existence in the tangled masses of rank vegetation,
which, feeding on the steamy, smothering moisture from the
Indian ocean, springs into marvellous luxuriance. With such
a chance, Livingstone assures us one might as well talk of
taking bearings while encased in a hogshead with no window
but the bung-hole!
It was easier to find out the people and to record such matters as were nearest him. Very few traces of coal were seen,
but the doctor mentions having seen gray sandstone like that
which is often found underlying that important article. The
villagers generally received him with the usual hospitality, exchanging gifts and kind offices. The head men of these villages
needed, of course, to associate some special power with themselves, and, as is commonly the case, assumed the distinction of
doctors. They were not so confident, however, in their science,
or so wedded to their particular school, as their brethren in near
climes, as was evinced by the readiness with which they discarded any possible simples when they had the opportunity of
benefiting by the treatment of the white man.




426            MOHAMM[EDAN INFLUENCE.
On the 14th of April Livingstone led his party down to the
banks of the Rovuma, opposite some red cliffs and near where
the "Pioneer" had turned back in 1861. The next day was
Sunday, and its rest was very sweet indeed, though the traveller
was so far away from the cherished communion of those who
with him  might rejoice in the worship of the great God and
sweet experiences of Jesus' love. Most of his attendants were
Mohammedans in name; and while their faith served a poor purpose, so far as their honesty and truthfulness was concerned, it
was decided enough to dispute about. It is sometimes the case
in other places that the religion which people profess does not
amount to anything more than a fighting matter. How Mohamlmedan zeal may kindle and glow was seen when an old Monyinko head man presented the party with a goat. The animal
having been received, its execution was in order. This service
was offered by the Sepoys, who were proceeding to cut its throat
after the fashion in their country, but the Johannes were of a
different sect and their creed called for the cutting of a goat's
throat by another pattern than that in use by their co-religionists
of India. The opportunity was too good to be lost, and a fierce
dispute ensued between these sects as to which was the right sort
of Moslem.
Livingstone was now in the line of the route he had projected
years before, and free to resume the undertaking which had
baffled him then without discouraging him. He was freer than
he was then, and untrammelled by counsellors or ships. He might
be called on to endure hardships, but he could not be commanded
to return. He had not the youth and vigor though which had
made his earlier toils lighter than they really were, though they
seemed hard enough.
From the point where he reached the Rovuma he led his party
westward, along the sides of that ragged table-land which he had
formerly seen from the river as flanking both sides. There it
appeared a range of hills, shutting in the Rovuma, here only
spurs were seen jutting out toward the river, and valleys retiring
several miles inland. Sometimes wending their way around
these spurs and sometimes toiling over them, axe in hand, the
party advanced like men whose minds were made up; there was
only one mind to the party: that mind was made up. It was a




LYING GUIDES.                   427
happy thing for all hands that there was no scarcity of food
along the path; particularly was it a happy thing for the Sepoys
that rice was plenty, as the supply of that commodity which
should have lasted until the expedition reached Nyomano was
found to be exhausted on the 13th.
The weariness of the march was greater than it should have
been because the Sepoys persisted in overburdening the camels,
which they could easily do as Dr. Livingstone was wholly unaccustomed to the animals. The sun too was beating on them
with great force, and the men taking their turns with fever.
Arab guides are not better than other guides. It is generally
the case that those who guide us for our convenience and their
profit seem very unconcerned about how well we are served if
our ignorance only abets their impositions. Guides had lied to
justify their misguidance before the time of Ben Ali, and if they
are not watched they will do it when the wind is playing with
leaves above his grave, The particular guide in question now,
as it turned out, owed a duty to a certain comely Makonde woman, who resided some distance from the proper path, and like
a dutiful husband, though an undutiful guide, vowed that the
wrong way was the right one as positively as ever an attorney
asserted the worse the better reason until his point was carried.
It seems to be no trouble to the Arab guide any more than to
an attorney when the point is carried to confess the "sharpness "
of the transaction; and Ben Ali guided his employer back when
lhe had comforted his spouse and reassured her of his affection
as pleasantly as he had led him aside. The policy of the Arabs
is like that of the Portuguese-they strengthen their influence
with the natives by coining down to them. They do not elevate
the African by it. They only degrade themselves and increase
the difficulties to be met by those who aim at the elevation of
the people in the scale of manhood.
The people among whom they were passing were very rude.
The women particularly seemed to ignore all restraints, and surpassed the men in the indecency of their deportment. The men,
like true lovers, engaged with eagerness in cutting a path, and
the hope of having a yard or two of cloth to make their wives'
dresses imparted marvellous charms to the hard work; it was delightful to hear their merry shouts and witness the almost childish




428               ALONG THE ROVUMA.
glee with which they marched against the most cruel jungles of
thorns and briers. The higher up the river they went the more
extravagantly barbarous were the specimens of tattooing and
lip-rings which presented themselves. There were very few
animals seen, hardly any indeed; none exist scarcely in the
country through which they passed except elephants, hippopotami
and pigs.
Ascending the Rovuma, they were still in the territory of the
Makonde, and retracing in large measure the former route, except that instead of sailing along the river they were walking
along the highlands and valleys. Now and then a familiar face
was presented to the doctor, and some faces associated rather unpleasantly with the events of his former expedition. The camels
and buffaloes were frequently bitten by the tsetse without exhibiting special inconvenience.
At the Nangadi river, a broad stream which rises in a lakelet
some eight or tell miles from the Rovuma, begins the territory
of the Mabiha. A few miles above this gap the southern highlands fall away, and there are broad marshes known as the Matembwe flats; numerous lakelets are seen glistening in the sunshine here and there; and away from these flats extends the
Matembwe country, famous for its beautiful women, and boasting
an astonishing supply of elephants and gum-copal. Such a
country could hardly fail to attract the Arab traders.
On the 25th of April Dr. Livingstone was at a village called
Nachnchu, enjoying the day of rest so welcome to the man who
has fulfilled the conditions of life on which the great Judge predicated the consecration of the seventh day. Men only find
occasion to complain of one of God's requirements when they
isolate it. No one command of God is hard when the others
are kept. Nobody will think the Sabbath dull who approaches
it prepared for its rest to body and spirit by a faithful employment of the six days, and by a proper appreciation of the relations so clearly set forth in the Bible. Livlngstone was greatly
disappointed in not being able to communicate with the natives.
The Nassick boys, on whom he had depended as understanding
their language, failed him utterly, and he could only take such
representations of them as Ali gave; he had only the opinions
of his class, and men are easily convinced of the impracticability




TROUBLES WITH FOLLOWERS.              429
of that which they are unwilling to attempt. It is easier to
say that such heathen as these along the Rovuma cannot be
taught anything than it is to teach them, therefore the covetous
representatives of the Moslem creeds say with eagerness: " They
cannot be instructed; they know nothing of God; have no idea
of God; it is impossible;;" that is the way Ben Ali talked about
the Makonde on Sunday at NTachuchu.
While examining a specimen of the gum-copal tree with some
of these Makonde, in the vicinity of Nachuchu, there was at
least a little evidence picked up which contradicted the Arabs'
representations. The people dig in the vicinity of modern trees
in the belief that more ancient trees, which dropped their gum
before it became an article of commerce, must have stood there.
Speaking of this, some of them said: " In digging none may be
found on one day, but God (Mungu) may give it to us on the
next."  This simple remark, made as naturally as any other,
revealed certainly more than an idle dream only of God. It
breathed much like faith, and not improbably expressed a spirit
of submission to God and dependence on his care which Ben
Ali had never dreamed of, although a boasting follower of
Mohammed.
As may be seen by a glance at the map, Livingstone was only
about one hundred miles from the coast at NTachuchu. The
villanous vagabonds who had charge of his camels subjected
him to the inconvenience of distressingly slow travel. The
difficulties had been great enough supposing his attendants the
best, but between rascally Sepoys and impenetrable jungles it
had been impossible to make more than four miles a day. After
leaving Nachuchu the country was more open, and the party advanced without the continual cutting that had been necessary
before. Livingstone described the scenery as beautiful. The
country was covered with great masses of umbrageous foliage,
mostly of a dark green color; the leaves of nearly all the trees
have the glossiness of the laurel. The kumbe or gum-copal
tree is conspicuous among the trees of these forests, and perhaps
possesses for the traveller more interest than any other on account of the important contribution it makes to the commerce
of the country. Burton makes more particular mention of this
tree than Dr. Livingstone does: he says, "it is by no means a
22




430                THE GUM-COPAL TREE.
scrubby thorn, as some have supposed; its towering bole has
formed canoes sixty feet long, and a single tree has sufficed for
the kelson of a brig. The average size, however, is about half
that height, with from  three to six feet girth near the ground;
the bark is smooth; the lower branches are often within the
reach of a man's hand, and the tree frequently emerges from a
natural ring-fence of dense vegetation; the trunk is of a yellowish
whitish tinge, rendering the tree conspicuous amid the dark
African jungle growths; it is (lotted with exudations of raw gum
which is found scattered in bits around its base, and is infested
by ants, especially by a long ginger-colored and semi-transparent
variety, called by the people maji-m'oto, which means boiling
water, from its fiery bite.
The special interest attaching to the tree is on account of its
gum, which is probably the only article convertible into the
finer varnishes now so extensively in use throughout the civilized
world. It is not the gum which is collected from the trees
which possesses this peculiar excellence. This is distinguished
as raw copal, and is of comparatively little value. The true or
ripe copal, properly called sandumsi, is the produce of vast extinct forests. The gum buried at depths beyond atmospheric
influence has, like amber and similar gum-resins, been bitumenized in all its purity, the volatile principles being fixed by
moisture and by the expulsion of external air. There are many
tints and peculiarities known only to those whose interests compel them to search them out. As a rule, the clear and semitransparent are the best. According to some authorities, the
gum when long kept has been observed to change its tinge.
There are nearly one million pounds of this valuable substance
exported every year from Zanzibar.
Another tree deserving special mention was the malole. The
grain of the wood of this tree is particularly fine, and it is
sought among all the trees because of its excellence in the qualities of strength and elasticity; nearly all the bows of the country
are made of it. The fruit, however, though so very tempting
to the eye, forms only a feast for maggots.
Livingstone appreciated very highly the natural beauties of
the region. But as he advanced, the unworthy Indian attendanits became increasingly worthless. They possessed marvellous




EXTRAVAGAN'T TATTOOING.             431
voracity, and, besides, a most unnatural capacity, which without
any peculiar attainment would'have told dreadfully on the
stock in store of precious food. Besides their wonderful capacity
they were most remarkable dyspeptics; accomplished beyond
all conception in the unpardonably wasteful art of ejecting instantaneously what they had eaten, their voracious powers
were only equalled by their amazing vomition.
If those Sepoys were specimens of their class, then would we
advise all travellers to beware of Sepoys. From the frequency
with which Livingstone complained of this batch we are impressed that they should have gone with him for nothing and
paid extra board besides. Either the cruelties of these men or
the tsetse, or both, were beginning to tell on the camels and the
buffaloes. They were rapidly becoming a burden rather than a
help. The people, however, when they had food were quite
generous. The villages of the Makonde were generally quite
cleanly and pleasant looking. These were sometimes found in
a state of anxiety on account of the kidnapping proclivities of
their neighbors on the south side of the Rovuma, who bear the
general name of Mabiha. These people are considerably interested in furnishing slaves for the Ibo market, and not unfrequently, if occasion offers, the women of the Makonde become
victims. There is hardly a sadder picture of home life than is
presented by a little African village about which a hasty stockade
has been thrown, behind which the people go timidly about their
duties, in hourly.expectation of the enemy who has fixed avaricious
eyes on the choicest of their number.
After crossing the N'Konya, a beautiful stream flowing out of
the highlands from the north into the Rovuma, the last of the
range which flanks the river on that side was seen, and the
country which lay before them was a plain, with a few detached
granitic peaks shooting up. In this neighborhood there were
some very remarkable specimens of personal ornamentation displayed with unconcealed pride. The fashion of the region
called for an extravagance of tattooing. The lovely belles who
displayed their proportions with shameless freedom were not
only adorned, as are other maidens of the land, about their faces
and breasts, but their entire persons seem to have been at the
command of the artist, and especially elaborate were the designs




432               TOP OF THE FASHION.
that graced the humbler parts. The hips displayed uncommon
skill, and were surpassed only by the eccentricities which were
traced along those posterior convexities which our refined conventionality blushes to denominate-but African belles are not
ashamed of their buttocks.  One of these beauties called at the
doctor's camp at the village of Nyamba, and presented a very
acceptable basket of soroko and a fowl, and as a specimen of the
native women of the section it may be mentioned that this lady
is described as "tall and well made, with fine limbs and feet."
Such language, too, from  so sober an observer as Dr. Livingstone, viewing people as he did with the eye of a scientist, means
more in Africa than it could mean in those nearer climes where
the arts of civilization have so greatly facilitated the disguise of
all deformities and imperfections; there is no place for shams,
no possibility of padding in a land where a lady's attire consists
of a few strands of beads, and possibly a few inches of cloth.
After leaving the end of the range, passing westward, the
"journal" mentions, among the  noticeable natural changes,
" first of all, sandstone hardened by fire; then masses of granite,
as if in that had been contained the igneous agency of partial
metamorphosis; it had also lifted up the sandstone, so as to
cause a dip to the east. Then the syenite or granite seemed as
if it had been melted, for it was all in strife, which strife, as
they do elsewhere, run east and west. With the change in geologic structure there was a different vegetation.  Instead of the
laurel-leaved trees of various kinds, African ebonies, acacias,
and mimosoe appeared, the grass is shorter and more sparse, and
we can move along without wood-cutting."
Between the Sepoys and the tsetse the animals were now
pretty well used up, and they were about entering a section
where a double misfortune had spread distressing desolation
among the people. Livingstone determined to leave the Sepoys
and the Nassick boys with the animals at Jponde, which stood
opposite a gigantic hill on the south side of the river called
Nakapuri.  He thought it was wiser to depend on those behind
no further than was necessary, so he transferred all his goods to
carriers and set out, heartily glad to be relieved for a time at
least of the provoking incubus of eighteen or twenty lazy fellows who were retarding his work almost insufferably.




ARRIVAL AT NYOMANO.                  433
One of the plagues to which the country had been subject was
an invasion of the Mazitu, whose plundering propensities constitute one of the most serious evils in all the lake region;
another was a very distressing drought. As he ad/anced the
embarrassment became greater.  The Mazitu had swept the
land like a cloud of locusts. They had inspired the whole population with terror. It was almost impossible to get his carriers
along, and as the south side of the river promised better fare he
at length consented to their entreaties, and they passed over and
journeyed on to the Loendi just above its confluence with the
Rovuma, and though it retained the name Loendi, it was manifestly the parent stream. Both rivers were rapid, shoal and
sandy, with light canoes gliding about on them, in whose dexterous management the natives take great pride.
iNyomano was at last reached.  It occupied the very important situation just at the confluence of the two rivers. Matumova, the head man, received Livingstone with great cordiality
and respect; he had himself crossed the Loendi and superintended the transportation of the party, and though he had been
sadly impoverished, and his people reduced to absolute want,
he generously divided his small store with Dr. Livingstone as
long as he remained at his village. The guide, Ben Ali, was discharged, and the country around scoured by the men in search
of food. Meantime, also, word was sent black to the Sepoys,
but his efforts to make something of them were more honorable
to himself than effectual. The time passed heavily; very short
marches. The journal of his travels for days contains very
little besides the annoyances experienced with his trifling escort:
they had so abused the camels that they were most of them
dead, and none of them any longer fit for service, while they
themselves could scarcely be trusted to carry anything of value.
In the Matembwe country he was in the favorite fields of the
Arab slave-traders. -Everywhere the huts were seen which
these traders had built to screen themselves from the sun. Many
of the people were found supplied with guns, and the ground
was strewn with slave-taming sticks, which gave sorrowful evidence of the multitudes of poor creatures who had fallen down
under the cruelties of their masters while on the march to the
market at the coast. Livingstone was now indeed penetrating




434                THE SLAVE-TRADE.
the continent for the special purpose of deciding some great
geographical questions as fully as it might be in his power, but
his great heart was full of anguish as he contemplated daily the
misery which this accursed traffic had brought to the poor untaught beings who had been made its victims.
The temptation which these traders have to offer readily
affects the minds of many of the natives who exercise a petty
authority over their fellows. Sometimes those who are sold are
captives in some village war; sometimes they are accused of
a trifling crime as a justification, and they are sometimes simply
taken by violence and sold. There is very little difficulty about
an Arab with beads or cloth obtaining all the claim he desires to
any particular man or woman on whom he may fix his choice,
and when once the slave yoke is on the unfortunate creature, he
may hardly hope to escape. On the 19th of June, Livingstone
mentions passing a woman tied by the neck to a tree dead; at
other times men were found stabbed, some who had been shot or
struck with the axe. These the natives said were those who had
been so unfortunate as to fall down of fatigue; they were no
longer able to walk, and must become the victims of the anger
of their masters, when it was clear that they could not contribute to their wealth. Livingstone lost no opportunity to
urge on the minds of the head men of the villages with whom he
came in contact the great and irreparable mischief they were
doing themselves by hearkening to the voice of their tempters;
warning themn that the trade which seemed to enrich them for
the time was rapidly depopulating their villages, leaving their
gardens desolate and diminishing their strength. These head
men seemed to be a little uneasy about it. They recognized the
unrighteousness of selling their people even according to their
rude ideas of justice and wisdom, but they were up to the old
trick of blaming some one else for their faults. Village after
village which was passed as the party journeyed along the
Rovuma was found deserted. One of these villages had only
been deserted a few hours before Livingstone entered it; its inhabitants had moved off in a body towards the Notembue country, where food was more abundant, and a poor little girl was
found in one of the huts. She was too weak to travel, and had
been left behind, and there is a wealth of tenderness in the




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SLAVERS REVENOINCf TIEIR LOSSES.








THE MAKOA.                    437
simple entry which is found in the great traveller's journal —
"probably she was an orphan."  His own children were far
away; their mother had gone on to her rest; he was toiling for
the redemption of Africa. Who knows with what depth of
feeling the great man, sitting in his lonely hut that night, wrote
the sad-sounding sentence about a poor little abandoned African
child?-" probably she was an orphan."  Surely our hearts
ought not to be hard toward these unfortunate people. The
children of Africa may not have evinced the same talents, may
not indeed possess the same capacities as those about our firesides, but they are children, needing tenderness and love.
The Makoa, who occupy the section along the Rovuma, lived
in the southeast in former times, and were distinguished by the
tattoo mark, which was in the shape of a half-moon. But since
they have lived in the Waiyau country, they have adopted marks
more like theirs. They are leais scrupulous about their diet
than the Makonde. They eat the flesh of all such animals as
they esteem clean. They condemn that of the hyena and leopard, or any beast which devours dead men. One of the most
prominent of the head men of this tribe, whose name was Chirikaloma, informed Dr. Livingstone that they were the descendants of an ancestor whose name was Mirazi, and that this was
properly the surname of the tribe. Near one of these villages
Livingstone observed a wand bent down and both ends inserted
into the ground: a lot of medicine, usually the bark of trees, is
buried beneath it. When sickness is in a village, the men proceed to the spot, wash themselves with the medicine and water,
creep through beneath the bough, then bury the medicine and
the evil influence together. This is also used to keep off evil
spirits, wild beasts, and enemies. The people do not seem as
superstitious either as some of the tribes that have come to our
notice. In the matter of deformities, for instance, Dr. Livingstone was asking Chirikaloma about their treatment of albinos;
he assured the doctor that the Makoa never killed them. The
parental tenderness does not relinquish the child because of any
blemish, as in some other communities. Livingstone was told
of a child in this tribe which was deformed from his birth. He
had an abortive toe where his knee should have been; some said
to his mother, "Kill him;" but she replied, " How can I kill




438                A WOMAN RESCUED.
my son?"  IHIe grew up and had many fine sons and daughters,
but none deformed like himself.
After leaving the village of Chirikaloma, while passing along
in the bright morning, they were loudly accosted by a welldressed woman who had just had a very heavy slave-taming
stick put on her neck; she called in such an authoritative tone
to them to witness the flagrant injustice of which she was the
victim  that all the men stood still and went to hear the case.
She was a near relative of Chirikaloma, and was going up the
river to her husband, when the old man (at whose house she was
now a prisoner) caught her, took her servant away from her, and
kept her in the degraded state they saw. The withes with
which she was bound were green and sappy. The old man said,
in justification, that she was running away from Chirikaloma,
and he would be offended with him if he did not secure her.
Livingstone asked the officious old gentleman in a friendly
tone what he expected to receive from Chirikaloma, and he said,
" Nothing."  Several slaver-looking fellows came about, and he
felt sure that the woman had been seized in order to sell her to
them, so he gave the captor a cloth to pay to Chirikaloma if he
were offended, and told him to say that he, feeling ashamed to
see one of his relatives in a slave-stick, had released her, and
would take her on to her husband.
This woman was evidently a lady among them; her superiority not only consisted in the rank which a wealth of fine
beads indicated, but she was manifestly a woman of uncommon
spirits. She proved herself well worthy of the kindness she had
received. During the few days in which she was with Livingstone's party, her deportment was that of a lady, kind and helpfill, but modest and retiring enough to satisfy even the fastidious
prudence of the most refined. And she was not ungrateful. She
had been rescued, from a dreadful fate indeed; a few moments
earlier or later she might have reached no friendly, pitying
ears with her cries. Yes, there are ears always open to the cry
of the oppressed; there are eyes that always bend pityingly on
the suffering.  Sometimes the Lord allows the yoke to cut
deeply into the neck that bears it, but does he ever forget to be
gracious? Will he disregard the cry of Ethiopia when she
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HORRORS OF THE TRADE IN SLAVES.          441
liverance comes, will he not avenge the wrongs which he has
witnessed?
The marks of the dreadful trade became more and more frequent as he penetrated the Waiyau country. They had hardly
released Akosakone, when they passed a slave woman shot or
stabbed through the body, and lying in the path. A group of
men stood about a hundred yards off on one side, and another
group of women on the other; they said this cruel murder had
just been committed by an Arab who passed by, in his anger at
losing the price he had paid for her, when he saw that she could
walk no farther. The head men of the villages seemed greatly
troubled and alarmed when they were told of so many dead
bodies of their people, who had been killed by the slavers, and
were not blind to the reasoning of Livingstone when he attempted to show them that those-who sold these poor creatures
to the Arabs were sharers with them in the guilt of these murders. As the party came neairer" Mtarika's place, the country
became more mountainous, and the land, sloping for a mile down
to the south bank of the Rovuma, supports a large population.
Some were making new gardens by cutting down trees and
piling the branches for burning; others had stored up large
quantities of grain and were moving it to a new locality, but
they were all so well supplied with calico (Merikano) that they
would not look at Dr. Livingstone's; the market was, in fact,
glutted by slavers from Quiloa (Kilwa). On asking why people were seen tied to trees to die as we had seen them, they gave
the usual answer that the Arabs tie them thus and leave them
to perish, because they are vexed, when the slaves can walk no
farther, that they have lost their money by them. The path was
almost strewed with slave-sticks, and though the people denied
it, Livingstone suspected that they made a practice of following
slave caravans and cutting off the sticks from those who fall out
in the march, and thus stealing them. By selling them again
they might get additional quantities of cloth. Some asked for
gaudy prints, of which he had none, because he knew that the
general taste of the Africans of the interior is for strength
rather than show in what they buy.
These people were, however, so well supplied with white
calico by the slave-traders that it was found to be a drug in the




442              CURRENCY FOR AFRICA.
market; it was impossible to get food for it. Mtarika's old
place was reached first. The Rovuma was there about one
hundred yards wide. The rest which was indulged in at this
point was refreshing, as rest must ever be to honest workers who
take it with clear consciences; but it was obtained at a cost
which almost turned the edge of it. The accommodations were
paid for dearly with the best table clothes. The reader has
surely come to understand long ago that, in Africa, the only
bank notes are pieces of cloth, and the only hard money, beads
and the like. When Mr. Stanley entered Africa in search of
Dr. Livingstone, he carried several tons of currency, and then
was sometimes in danger of running short. With the uncommon outlay at the resting-place he obtained only one meal a day.
The people were Waiyau, as were all the people from there on
to the lake. They are as deeply interested in the slave-trade as
any people in East Africa, and copy the Arabs in various
matters-dress, chewing tobacco, etc. The list of animals had
now dwindled down to a poodle-dog, known in the camp as
Chitaue, a buffalo calf, and a single donkey. These were nearly
as great curiosities in the land as the white man himself.
Nothing which Livingstone could find out indicated that the
people had ever seen a white man before.
At the new town of Mtarika, which was entered, after a short
march, on the 3d of July, they came on an interesting scene.
This chief had gathered about him an immense population, and
the new town had been laid out quite regularly over an area
miles in extent. Mtarika was a " big ugly man," full of caution
and curiosity.
It seemed unadvisable to attempt to follow  the Rovuma
farther. Livingstone had now no doubt about its flowing from
Lake rNyassa, which was only about sixty miles away; and to
continue on that route he would be subjected to great inconvenience because of the unsalablenegs of his goods, as the
markets in that direction were clearly overstocked already by
the Arabs; besides they would be compelled, as he ascertained,
to cross several rivers flowing into the Rovuma from the south,
and then in passing around the northern end of the lake would
be among the Nlindi, who are only surpassed in their thieving
propensities by the Mozitu, whom they have succeeded as occu



EXTRACT FROM LAST JOURNAL.              443
pants of the land. It was therefore determined to turn southward and push on a good eight days march across a desolate
region to the town of Mataka. Accordingly on the morning
of the 5th the party passed on to Mtendi, the last chief, until
they should reach Mataka. It was a serious undertaking-eight
days journey through a wilderness desolated by famine, where
no human habitation could be expected to appear, but Livingstone was accustomed to serious undertakings. A page or two
from Livingstone's journal, just as the experiences were put down
on the evening of each day, cannot fail to interest the reader,
and we are glad to have it at hand.
"July 7.-We got men from Mtendi to carry loads and show
the way. He asked a cloth to ensure his people going to the
journey's end and behaving properly; this is the only case of
anything like tribute being demanded in this journey. I gave
him a cloth worth 5s. 6d. Upland vegetation prevails; trees
are dotted here and there among bushes five feet high, and fine
blue and yellow flowers are common. W~e pass over a succession
of ridges and valleys as in Londa; each valley has a running
stream or trickling rill; garden willows are in full bloom, and
also a species of sage with variegated leaves beneath the flowers.
"July 8.-Hard travelling through a depopulated country.
The trees are about the size of hop-poles, with abundance of tall
grass; the soil is sometimes a little sandy, at other times that
reddish, clayey sort which yields native grain so well. The
rock seen uppermost is often a ferruginous conglomerate, lying
on granite rocks. The gum-copal tree is here a mere bush, and
no digging takes place for the gum: it is called mchenga, and
yields gum when wounded, as also bark, cloth, aud cordage
when stripped. Mountain masses are all around us; we sleep
at Linata mountain.
"July 9.-The Masuko fruit abounds: the name is the same
here as in the Batoka country; there are also rhododendrons of
two species, but the flowers white. We slept in a wild spot,
near Mount Leziro, with many lions roaring about us; one
hoarse fellow serenaded us a long time, but did nothing more.
Game is said to be abundant, but we saw none, save an occasional diver springing away from the path. Some streams ran
to the northwest to the Lismyando, which flows north for the
Rovuma; others to the southeast for the Loendi.




444              A DESERTED VILLAGE.
"July 10 and 11.-N-lothing to interest but the same weary
trudge: our food so scarce that we can only give a handful or
half a pound of grain to each person per day. The Masuko
fruit is formed, but not ripe till rains begin; very few birds are
seen or heard, though there is both food and water in the many
grain-bearing grasses and running streams, which we cross at
the junction of every two ridges. A dead body lay in a hut by
the wayside; the poor thing had begun to make a garden by the
stream, probably in hopes of living long enough (two months
or so) on wild fruits to reap a crop of maize.
"July 12.-A drizzling mist set in during the night and continued this morning; we set off in the dark, however, leaving
our last food for the havildar and Sepoys who had not yet come
up. The streams are now of good size. An Arab brandy bottle
was lying broken in one village called Msapa. We hurried on
as fast as we could to the Luatize, our last stage before getting
to AIataka's; this stream is rapid, about forty yards wide, waist
deep, with many podostemons on the bottom. The country gets
more and more undulating and is covered with masses of green
foliage, chiefly Masuko trees, which have large hard leaves.
There are hippopotami farther down the river on its way to the
Loendi. A little rice which had been kept for me I divided,
but some did not taste food.
"July 13.-A good many stragglers behind, but we push on
to get food and send it back to them. The soil all reddish clay,
the roads baked hard by the sun, and the feet of many of us
are weary and sore: a weary march and long, for it is perpetually
up and down now. I counted fifteen running streams in one
day: they are at the bottom of the valley which separates the
ridges. We got to the brow of a ridge about an hour from
Mataka's first gardens, and all were so tired that we remained
to sleep; but we first invited volunteers to go on and buy food,
and bring it back early next morning: they had to be pressed
to do this duty.
"July 141.-As our volunteers did not come at 8 A.M., I set
off to see the cause, and after an hour of perpetual up and down
march, as I descended the steep slope which overlooks the first
gardens, I saw my friends start up at the apparition-they were
comfortably cooking porridge for themselves! I sent men of




A MODEL TOWN OF AFRICA.               445
Mataka back with food to the stragglers behind and came into
his town."
An Arab, Sef Rupia, or Rubia, head of a large body of slaves
on his way to the coast, most kindly came forward and presented
the doctor with an ox, a bag of flour and some cooked meat, an
extremely welcome offering indeed!
Mataka's town was found to consist of about a thousand
houses, and around it clustered many small villages. All about
them were mountains, clothed in lovely green. It was a very
beautiful spot, and though only recently selected the people of
this chief were already entirely at home. It must be understood that towns may spring up in a night almost in a country
where all the structures are so simple and temporary; an entire
tribe may settle comfortably with almost as much despatch as
an army can pitch its tents. The famous chieftain, Mataka,
kept his visitor waiting some time on the verandah of his house,
but when he made his appearance his good-natured face was
wreathed in smiles. He was about sixty, dressed as an Arab,
and too good-humored to conceal his enjoyment of a good laugh;
and it was not long before he had the weary traveller snugly
set up in a square house like his own, where we will allow him
a little breathing time.
AxE, etc,




CHAPTER XXI.
APPROACHING NYASSA.
A Guest of Mataka-The Waiyau-Livingstone and the Arabs-The Town of
Moembe-Iron Smelting-Causes of Desolation-Waiyau Described-Livingstone's Desires-Slave-Trade: Does it Pay?-Sepoys sent back-MountainsSprings-Iron-Approaching Nyassa-Livingstone's Review of his RouteThe Watershed-Geological Formations-Kindness of the People-The Single
Curse-An Example of Christians-Inconvenience of being English-Arabs
as Settlers —A Doubtful Question Settled-Pota Mimba-Around the Foot of
the Lake-No Earthquake Known-Sites of Old Villa'ges-Brooks-The First
European Seen-" God Took Him "-Wikatani Finds Relatives-Salt-Making
-Eighty-five Slaves in a Pen-Work Honorable.
IN our comfortable homes, surrounded by the conveniences
and extravagances afforded by culture and wealth, the prospect
of two weeks' recreation in an African village where no white
man had ever been before, with only a hut of wattle and daub
to shield us from the rays of a tropical sun and the prying gaze
of curious barbarians, only the rude fare of people who followed
the simplest suggestions of nature in their culinary art, and the
society of the most untutored heathen, would hardly be called
delightful; but after the weariness and anxiety of a long march
across a thoroughly desolate country, after having been deprived
of every comfort, travelling many days with hardly food enough
to sustain life, Dr. Livingstone was fully prepared to appreciate
the kindness of Mataka very highly. The chief proved himself
a very generous, hospitable man, and received kindly the suggestions of Dr. Livingstone, and seemed to enjoy exceedingly
conversation about the customs and improvements of the country of the white man. He had been a very active participant
in the slave-trade, and winced sometimes under the arguments
of his visitor, which seemed to convict him of great folly and
wrong in that matter.  His town is not far from the Nyassa
country, toward which  Livingstone was journeying.  The
Waiyau have been pretty generally supplied with guns and
446




LIVINGSTONE AND THE ARABS.             447
such other appliances of war as may make them useful allies of
the Arab traders. The plan pursued by these traders, with
considerable success, is to come into a Waiyau village, show the
goods they have brought, are treated liberally by the elders, and
told to wait and enjoy themselves, slaves enough to purchase all
will be procured: then a foray is made against the Manganja,
who have few or no guns. The Waiyau who come against
them are abundantly supplied with both by their coast guests.
Several of the low-coast Arabs, who differ in nothing from the
Waiyau, usually accompany the foray, and do business on their
own account: Mataka himself said that he was growing
tired of it and desired to settle down in quiet. It was not
the policy of Livingstone, as some have supposed, to put himself in antagonism with the traders who were traversing the
country; he was only an individual, and bent immediately on
the solution of problems connected with the great water-courses
of the country, a work bearing, indeed, directly, but only remotely, on the condition of the people of the continent. He was,
however, a Christian man, a philanthropist, a missionary at
heart, and as far as lay in his power sought to break the power
of the evil which he saw extending its mighty coils all over the
land. The Arabs always sought to avoid him, apprehending
that his mission was to break up their trade. He had no
thought of doing that, except so far as it might be diminished
by the moral influence he should be able to exert. And on this
journey, as on those through the more southern country, the
personal power of the man was shown, as much as in anything
else, by the readiness with which he impressed his ideas of right
on the minds of the people among whom he appeared as an
entire stranger.
Livingstone was particularly favorably impressed with the
country surrounding Moembe, as Mataka's town was called.
Immense tracts of this country lie uninhabited, the scene only
of the undisturbed revelry of wild beasts. To the northeast of
the town at least fifty miles of splendid land lies neglected —an
unanswerable protest against the trade which has carried away
its once thrifty population into bondage. This vast tract presents, as Livingstone assures us, unmistakable evidences of
having supported in other times a prodigious iron-smelting and




448                THIE WAIYAU RACE.
grain-growing population. Clay pipes, which had been used on
the nozzles of bellows and inserted into the furnaces, were met
with everywhere: these were often vitrified. Then the ridges
on which maize, beans, cassava, and sorghum had been planted,
remained unlevelled, attesting the industry of the former inhabitants. Pieces of broken pots, with their rims ornamented with
very good imitations of basket work, attest that the lady potters
of old followed here the example given them by their still more
ancient mothers. The desolation of this splendid region could
not be attributed to those causes which had operated farther
south. The ground was fertile, and there were any number of
fresh, cool fountains. It is a vast succession of hills and valleys,
with numerous running streams.  The un-African sound of
gushing waters dashing over the rocks was sweet music in his
ears, and brought back freshly to his mind the charming scenes
of his own far-away land. He mentions counting fifteen running burns of from one to ten yards wide in one day's march
of about six hours; being in a hilly or rather mountainous
region, they flow rapidly and have plenty of water-power. In
July any mere torrent ceases to flow, but these were brawling
burns with water too cold (610) for people to bathe in whose
pores were all open by the relaxing regions nearer the coast.
This district is very elevated, rising thirty-four hundred feet
above the level of the sea. The atmosphere is moist, and the
sky is generally overcast until ten o'clock in the day.
The W~aiyau are described as far from a handsome race, but
they aie not the prognathous beings one sees on the west coast
either. Their heads are of a round shape; compact foreheads,
but not particularly receding; the alce ncasi are flattened out;
lips full, and with the women a small lip-ring just turns them
up to give additional thickness. Their style of beauty is exactly that which was in fashion when the stone deities were
made in the caves of Elephanta and Kenora near Bombay. A
favorite mode of dressing the hair into little knobs, which was
in fashion there, is more common in some tribes than in this.
The mouths of the women would not be so hideous with a small
lip-ring if they did not file their teeth to points; but they seem
strong and able for the work which falls to their lot. The men
are large, strong-boned fellows, and capable of enduring great




THE DESIRES OF HIS HEART.              449
fatigue. They undergo a rite which once distinguished the
Jews about the age of puberty, and take a new name on the
occasion. This was not introduced by the Arabs, whose advent
is a recent event, and they speak of the time before they were
inundated with European manufactures in exchange for slaves,
as quite within their memory.
Besides their healthful and productive locality, they are in
possession of cattle in considerable numbers. These, however,
are of rather a small breed, black and white in patches, and
brown, with humps, but they give milk which is duly prized.
The sheep are the large-tailed variety, and generally of a black
color. Fowls and pigeons are the only other domestic animals,
if we except the wretched village dogs, which the doctor's
poodle had immense delight in chasing.
The heart of Dr. Livingstone, always burning with desire to
see Africa open to the light of the gospel, could hardly have
failed to fix on such a spot: he saw it not only as offering inducements to the great gain-loving world, but as proclaiming
great encouragement to those who were waiting for a footing for
their missionary enterprises within the heart of the continent.
As he looked on the fertile gardens and enjoyed the plenty
which surrounded him, lie thought of the abandoned mission
station at Magomero. He was not blind to the difficulties confronting and besetting the missionary continually. He did not
depreciate the losses incurred-losses of money and precious
lives as well —in prosecuting the work of saving the heathen;
but he saw everywhere he went in that land men hazarding as
much and sacrificing as much for the enslavement of the people
as the Christian world would need to hazard or sacrifice for
their conversion, and he reasoned well and rightly when he
entered in his journal"It struck me after Sef had numbered up the losses that the
K]ilwa people sustained by death in their endeavors to enslave
people, similar losses on the part of those who go to'proclaim
liberty to the captives, the opening of the prison to them that
are bound' —to save and elevate, need not be made so very
much of as they sometimes are."
Livingstone was very far from having lost his interest in the
missionary work. He had, indepd, been led away from the
23




450             MOUNTAINS AND STREAMS.
more legitimate duties of a Christian teacher, but as an explorer
he was animated by the same desire to glorify God and do good
to men which had animated him when he left his native land in
the first love of his consecration. And to the last he seemed
always animated by the desire to solve the mysteries of the land
only that he might the more successfully carry out his great
scheme of establishing a strong central mission in the heart of
the country, whence the influences of Christianity might more
readily penetrate the whole land.
So much trouble had been experienced with the Sepoys that
Livingstone was at last obliged to decide against attempting to
carry them farther. They had sought by every means to produce disaffection among his followers and even to excite the
natives against him. So having arranged for them to return to
the coast with a respectable trade, he parted company with them
at Moembe, leaving them a few days in the care of Mataka.
On the 28th of July Mataka came with a good lot of flour
and men.to guide the party to the lake; he had before presented
an ox, and his guests were thus prepared to set out in good
spirits. There are two roads from his town to the lake-one to
Losewa, which is west of this, and opposite Kotakota; the
other, to Makatu, is farther south: thefirst is five days through
deserted country chiefly; but the other, seven, among people and
plenty of provisions all the way.  Mataka told. Livingstone
that he would not send him to Losewa, as that place had been
recently burned, but by the more southern route, which, though
a little longer road, was safer and better. The whole country
was a mass of mountains, and on leaving Moembe the party
ascended considerably, and toward evening of the first day's
march the barometer showed the greatest altitude about thirtyfour hundred feet above the level of the sea. Everywhere in
these mountains there were villages; generally these villages
boasted about one hundred houses. Numerous springs-about
which unmistakable indications of iron appeared — afforded
abundance of water. Beautiful green grass was waving everywhere, and flowers of various bright hues.
The temperature on these mountains was much lower than
some may dream of in such a latitude; on the 29th of July,
about the summit of the range, it was in the morning 550 only.




LIVINGSTONE'S REVIEW.               4_51
The trees were rather small and became scantier as they descended
toward the lake, but the ferns, rhododendrons and a foliage tree
greatly resembling silver fir were frequently seen.
Every day they came near slave parties, but the Arabs always
avoided the Englishman. The country though was becoming
more familiar-looking as they came nearer the Nyassa, and Livingstone welcomed the appearance of the familiar grasses and
the singing birds which now began to add their charms to their
camping grounds.
Under date of the 8th of August, a little more than four
months from the time of his entering the country, in his journal we read: "We came to the lake at the confluence of
the Mlisinje, and felt grateful to that Hand which had protected us thus far on our journey. It was as if I had come back
to an old home I never expected again to see."  Glancing
over the district across which we have followed the traveller
back to the lake on whose waters we remember that he launched
his little boats some years ago, it will certainly be profitable for
us to have his own language about its geological features; concerning these he says: "The plateaux on each side of the IRovuma are masses of gray sandstone, capped with masses of ferruginous conglomerate; apparently an aqueous deposit. When we
ascend the Rovurma about sixty miles, a great many pieces and
blocks of siiicified wood appear on the surface of the soil at the
bottom of the slope up the plateaux. This in Africa is a sure
indication of the presence of coal beneath, but it was not observed
cropping out; the plateaux are cut up in various directions by
wadys well supplied with grass and trees on deep and somewhat
sandy soil; but at the confluence of the Loendi highlands they
appear in the far distance. In the sands of the Loendi pieces
of coal are quite common.
" Before reaching the confluence of the Rovuma and Loendi,
or say about ninety miles from the sea, the plateau is succeeded
by a more level country, having detached granitic masses shooting up some five or seven hundred feet. The sandstone of the
plateau has at first been hardened, then quite metamorphosed
into a chocolate-colored schist. As at Chilole hill, we have
igneous rocks, apparently trap, capped with masses of beautiful
white dolomite. We still ascend in altitude as we go westwards,




452             GEOLOGICAL FORMATIONS.
and come upon long tracts of gneiss with hornblende. The
gneiss is often striated, all the striae looking one way-sometimes
north and south, and at other times east and west. These rocks
look as if a stratified rock had been nearly melted, and the strata
fused together by the heat. From  these striated rocks have
shot up great rounded masses of granite or syenite, whose smooth
sides and crowns contain scarcely any trees, and are probably
from three to four thousand feet above the sea. The elevated
plains among these mountain masses show great patches of ferruginous conglomerate, which, when broken, look like yellow
h~ematite with madrepore holes in it: this has made the soil
of a red color.
"On the watershed we have still the rounded granitic hills
jutting above the plains (if such they may be called), which are
all ups and downs, and furrowed with innumerable running
tills, the sources of the Rovuma and Loendi. The highest rock
observed with mica schist was at an altitude of three thousand
four hundred and forty feet. The same uneven country prevails
as we proceed from the watershed about forty miles down to the
lake, and a great deal of quartz in small fragments renders
travelling very difficult.  Near the lake, and along its eastern
shore, we have mica schist and gneiss foliated, with a great deal
of hornblende; but the most remarkable feature of it is that the
rocks are all tilted on edge, or slightly inclined to the lake.
The active agent in effecting this is not visible. It looks as if
a sudden rent had been made, so as to form the lake, and tilt all
these rocks nearly over. On the east side of the lower part of
the lake we have two ranges of mountains, evidently granitic:
the nearer one covered with small trees and lower than the other;
the other jagged and bare, or of the granitic forms. But in all
this country no fossil-yielding rock was visible except the gray
sandstone referred to at the beginning of this note. The rocks
are chiefly the old crystalline forms."
The soil of the district is good, and water generally abuncant.
Neither had he suffered particularly in health. If he had been
escorted by his AMakololo the whole journey would have been a
joyous march. The people of Makonde, Makoa and WVaiyau
had all been generous and kind; the chiefs had readily rendered
him all needed assistance, and seemed to appreciate the lessons




WHICH IS MORE INSPIRING?              453
of nobler manhood he had sought to impress on them. Over
all the district one particular curse had settled and was resting
with most blighting influence. The people were rude barbarians,
of course, but were teachable and kind. But no established
creed or dominant superstition occupied the ground to withstand
the ingress of Christianity; no popular prejudices stood armed
guarding the coast against the purer customs of civilization.
Only the slave-trade, encouraged by foreigners, watched with
jealous eye every approach of the purer light and ennobling influences of a Christian civilization to the villages and homes of
the unfortunate people on whose ignorance it paid them to
impose, and whose deepest degradation was the surest source of
their unholy gains. Relieved of this one evil and the whole
region over which he had passed might be esteemed as a goodly
land, where Christian laborers might live peacefully and healthfully. And as for the difficulty of access and the transportation
of supplies-Arabs are not discouraged by these difficulties from
pressing their trade, which is only for gain, and surely it is
worth as much to the Christian world to accomplish the redemption of these poor people. The journey to the lake had
been enlivened by very little of incident. Very few animals
had been seen, except such harmless ones as excited not even
a passing notice. But the feat was performed: the old purpose
of Livingstone to settle the question about the country between
the mouth of the Rovuma and the Lake Nyassa; and he was
once more enjoying the roar of its waves and luxurious baths
in its delightful waters, and rejoicing in its exhilarating atmosphere. The head man. of the village, Mokalaose, was a real
Manganja, and he and all his people exhibited greater darkness
of color consequent on being in a warmer, moist climate. He
was very friendly and presented millet porridge, cassava and
hippopotamus meat, and asked if Livingstone liked milk, as he
had some of Mataka's cattle. His people brought a lake fish,
called sanjika, the best that is caught, for sale.  Livingstone
purchased fifty of these for a fathom of calico, and thought that
they had very much the taste of herrings.
The reader may remember that in his Zambesi expedition
when ascending this lake Livingstone obtained knowledge of an
Arab settlement on the western shore of the lake, the chief man




454        INCONVENIENCE OF BEING ENGLISH.
of which was named Jumbe. He now desired to secure a passage across the lake, and knowing Jurnbe to be in possession of
several dhows, despatched messengers to him bearing the letter
of Seyed Majid-received at Zanzibar-while he busied himself
with his journal and observations.
All of his attempts, however, to secure transportation failed,
and he was under the necessity of making the circuit of the
southern end of the lake. And naturally enough he felt for
once that it was rather inconvenient to have the Arabs, even the
slaves, hold the English name in such dread. The fear which
the English opposition had inspired these traders with caused
them to run away from Livingstone on all occasions. This not
only deprived him of the relief which even the face of an Arab
might sometimes have contributed, but greatly increased the
difficulty of sending letters to the coast. Jumbe has made himself particularly notorious in connection with the slave-trade,
and Livingstone apprehended Mokalaose's fears of the Waiyau
would make him welcome Jumbe at his town, and then the Arab
would some day have an opportunity of scattering his people as
he has done those at Kotakota. He has made Losewa too hot
for himself. When the people there were carried off by Mataka's
people, Jumbe seized their stores of grain, and now has no post
to which he can go there. The Loangwa Arabs give an awful
account of Jumbe's murders and selling the people, but one cannot take it all in; at the mildest it must have been bad. This
is all they ever do; they cannot form a state or independent
kingdom: slavery and the slave-trade are insuperable obstacles
to any permanence inland; slaves can escape so easily; all therefore that the Arabs do is to collect as much money as they can
by hook and by crook, and then leave the country.
And kind Mokalaose's troubles are not all in apprehension of
the Arabs; he boasted a large family, numerous wives and appendages, and how could he escape trouble?  He loved to pour
these afflictions into the ear of the sympathizing white man;
among these he was particularly distressed about one of his
wives who had taken French leave of him. It was no use to
criticise the too-many-wives custom of these chiefs: they invariably
fell back into the stronghold of African logic on that question,
which is summed up in a few words: "Who would cook for




POTA MIMBA.                     455
strangers if I had but one?"  This was a poser, especially seeing the antagonist was a guest himself. Mokalaose was quite a
gentleman in his way, and was proud to display his hospitality
after a fashion more famniliar in our country than some others.
One day he invited Dr. Livingstone into his house and presented
some beer; "I drank a little," says the doctor, " but seeing me
desist from taking more, he asked me if I wished a servant girl
to'pota mimnba;' not knowing what was meant, I offered the
girl the calabash of beer and told her to drink, but this was not
the intention. He asked if I did not wish more, and then took
the vessel, and as he drank the girl performed the operation on
himself. Placing herself in front, she put both hands round
his waist below the short ribs, and pressing gradually drew them
round his belly in front. He took several prolonged draughts,
and at each she repeated the operation as if to make the liquor
go equally over the stomach." It is possible that some of the
lordly topers of this land may feel greatly disturbed that it should
have been left for an African head man to discover this very
original method of increasing his capacity-or possibly no such
need is felt by our topers.
Many matters are mentioned in Dr. Livingstone's journal
from this point around the extremity of the lake, which would
be of no special interest woven into a narrative of travel, but
which should not be omitted in justice to the man who was
toiling more in the interest of positive knowledge than for the
entertainment of himself or others; and it seems well that we
give the reader such extracts from his journal here as may be
most serviceable to us in forming a distinct idea of the region,
which is really one of real importance.
"Septernber 5.-Our march. is along the shore to Ngombo
promontory, which approaches so near to Senga or Tsenga
opposite, as to narrow the lake to some sixteen or eighteen
miles. It is a low sandy point, the edge fringed on the northwest and part of the south with a belt of papyrus and reeds;
the central parts wooded. Part of the south side has high
sandy dunes, blown up by the south wind, which strikes it at
right angles there. One was blowing as we marched along
the southern side eastward, and.was very tiresome.  We
reached Panthunda's village by a brook called Lilole. Another




456             SITES OF OLD VILLAGES.
we crossed before coming to it is named Libesa: these brooks
form the favorite spawning-grounds of the sanjika and mpasa,
two of the best fishes of the lake.  The sanjika is very like
our herring in shape and taste and size; the mpasa larger every
way: both live on green herbage formed at the bottom of the
lake and rivers.
"September 7.-Chirumba's village being on the south side
of a long lagoon, we preferred sleeping on the mainland, though
they offered their cranky canoes to ferry us over. This lagoon
is called Pansangwa.
"Septemnber 8.-In coming along the southern side of Ngombo
promontory we look eastwards, but when we leave it we turn
southwards, having a double range of lofty mountains on our
left. These are granitic in form, the nearer range being generally the lowest, and covered with scraggy trees; the second, or
more easterly, is some six thousand feet above the sea, bare and
rugged, with jagged peaks shooting high into the air. This is
probably the newest range. The oldest people have felt no
earthquake, but some say that they have heard of such things
from their elders.
"We passed very many sites of old villages, which are easily
known by the tree euphorbia planted round an umbelliferous
one, and the sacred fig. One species here throws out strong
buttresses ih the manner of some mangroves instead of sending
down twiners which take root, as is usually the case with the
tropical fig. These, with millstones —stones for holding the
pots in cooking-and upraised clay benches, which have been
turned into brick by fire in the destruction of the huts, show
what were once the' pleasant haunts of men.'
"September 10. —In marching southwards we came close to
the range (the lake lies immediately on the other side of it),
but we could not note the bays which it forms; we crossed two
mountain torrents from sixty to eighty yards broad, and now
only ankle-deep. In flood these bring down enormous trees,
which are much battered and bruised among the rocks in their
course; they spread over the plain, too, and would render travelling here in the rains impracticable. After spending the night
at a very civil head man's chefu, we crossed the Lotende, another of these torrents: each very lofty mass in the range




TWENTY-FOUR BROOKS.                457
seemed to give rise to one. Nothing of interest occurred as we
trudged along. A very poor head man, Pamawawa, presented
a roll of salt instead of food: this was grateful to us, as we
have been without that luxury some time.
"September 13. —We crossed a strong brook called Nkore.
My object in mentioning the brooks which were flowing at
this time, and near the end of the dry season, is to give an
idea of the sources of supply of evaporation. The men enumerate the following, north of the Misinje. Those which are
greater are marked thus +, and the lesser ones -.
1. Misinje + has canoes.
2. Loangwa -
3. Lesefa -
4. Lelula -
5. Nchamanje -
6. Musumba +
7. Fubwe +
8. Chia9. Kisanga +
10. Bweka
11. Chifumero + has canoes.
12. Loangwa
13. Mkoho
14. Mangwelo - at N. end of lake.
"Including the above there are twenty or twenty-four perennial brooks and torrents which give a good supply of water in
the dry season; in the wet season they are supplemented by a
number of burns, which, though flowing now, have their mouths
blocked up with bars of sand, and yield nothing except by percolation; the lake rises at least four feet perpendicularly in the
wet season, and has enough during the year from these perennial brooks to supply the Shire's continual flow."
[It will be remembered that the beautifill river Shire carries
off the waters of Lake Nyassa and joins the Zambesi near
Mount Morambala, about ninety miles from the sea. It is by
this water-way that Livingstone always hoped to find an easy
access to Central Africa. We will not forget the obstacles which




458              PAINFUL REFLECTIONS.
forced him to seek another path. IHe could, not suppress his
sorrow when he looked away toward the region watered by that
river and thought on the disappointments experienced there.
Many hopes had been wrecked there. It was an inexpressible
feeling of loneliness came over him when he thought on the
grave of her whose death had changed all his prospects —far
away down on the right bank of the river under the shadow of
the great baobab tree; and the bitter regret with which he recalled the easy death of the noble Bishop Mackenzie, and the
abandonment of the mission enterprise. It does seem sad that
he should have been called away just when his arduous toils
were on the eve of their best fruits; how gladly would he welcome if lie was alive now the news that arrangements are definitely made for planting strong and permanent missions along
the Shire!]
"September 15.-We were now a short distance south of the
lake, and might have gone west to Mosauka's (called by some
Pasauka's) to cross the Shire there, but I thought that my visit
to Mukate's, a Waiyau chief still farther south, might do good.
He, Mponda, and Kabinga, are the only three chiefs who still
carry on raids against the Manganja at the instigation of the
coast Arabs, and they are now sending periodical marauding
parties to the Maravi (here named Malola) to supply the Kilwa
slave-traders.  WVe marched three hours southwards, then up
the hills of the range which flanks all the lower part of the lake.
The altitude of the town is about eight hundred feet above the
lake. The population near the chief is large, and all the heights
as far as the eye can reach are crowned with villages. The
second range lies a few miles off, and is covered with trees as
well as the first; the nearest high mass is Mangoche. The people
live amidst plenty. All the chiefs visited by the Arabs have
good substantial square houses built for their accommodation.
Mukate never saw a European before, and everything about us
is an immense curiosity to him and to his people. We had long
visits from him. He tries to extract a laugh out of every remark.  He is darker than the generality of Waiyau, with
a full beard trained on the chin-as all the people hereabouts have-Arab fashion. The courts of his women cover
a large space, our house being on one side of them. I tried




~~ GOD TOOK HIM."                459
to go out that way, but wandered, so the ladies sent a servant to conduct me out in the direction I wished to go, and
we found egress by passing through some huts with two doors
in them.
"September 17.-We marched down from Mukate's and to
about the middle of the Lakelet Pamalombe. Mukate had no
people with canoes near the usual crossing place, and he sent a
messenger to see that we were fairly served. Here we got the
Manganja head men to confess that an earthquake had happened;
all the others we have inquired of have denied it; why, I cannot
conceive. The old men said that they had felt earthquakes
twice, once near sunset and the next time at night-they shook
everything, and were accompanied with noise, and all the fowls
cackled; there was no effect on the lake observed. They profess
ignorance of any tradition of the water having stood higher.
Their traditions say that they came originally from the west, or
west-northwest, which they call'Maravi;' and that their forefathers taught them to make nets and kill fish. They have no
trace of ally teaching by a higher instructor; no carvings or
writings on the rocks; and they never heard of a book until we
came among them. Their forefathers never told them that after
or at death they went to God, but they had heard it said of such
a one who died,'God took him.' "
From the village of Mukate Livingstone was provided with
a number of canoes in which he and his company passed up to
the point of junction between the Lakelet Pamalombe and Lake
Nyassa; but the people were very timid, and he was under the
necessity of going on to Mponda's, which lies just south of
Nyassa.
In coming from the coast to the lake Livingstone had considerable trouble in conversing with the natives. All along
that route the Waiyau language prevails-a language confessedly hard to master. It was a great relief among the tribes
about this lake to observe a striking similarity of the language
to that in use along the Zambesi and the Shire. They were
again surrounded by those ferocious beasts which are so intimately associated with African travel in the mind of almost
every reader. The first day of their stay at Mponda's town a
woman was carried off by a lion, and almost entirely eaten




460           WIKATANI FINDS RELATIVES.
before being discovered. The fatigues of travel were affecting
very seriously the dispositions of his followers; they were becoming more and more dissatisfied, and harassing the doctor
sadly enough. Before reaching Mponda's village he had lost
one of the company whom he esteemed very highly. Wikatani had been a favorite with Bishop Mackenzie; he had
been liberated from bondage into which his friends had
sold him; he found some relatives in the neighborhood.
Concerning the incident Dr. Livingstone wrote about that time
as follows:
" He met with a brother, and found that he had two brothers
and one or two sisters living down at the western shore of Lake
Pamelombe under Kabinga.  He thought that his relatives
would not again sell him. I had asked him if he wished to remain, and he at once said'Yes,' so I did not attempt to dissuade
him: his excessive levity will perhaps be cooled by marriage.
I think he may do good by telling some of what he has seen
and heard. I asked him if he would obey an order from his
chief to hunt the Manganja, and he said,'No.' I hope he
won't. In the event of any mission coming into the country
of Mataka, he will go there. I gave him paper to write to you,
and, commending him to the chiefs, bade the poor boy farewell.
I was sorry to part with him, but the Arabs tell the WVaiyau
chiefs that our object in liberating slaves is to make them our
own and turn them to our religion. I had declared to them,
through Wikatani as interpreter, that they never became our
slaves, and were at liberty to go back to their relatives if they
liked; and now it was impossible to object to Wikatani going
without stultifying my own statements."
Before reaching Mponda's Dr. Livingstone mentions lbaving
seen several hundred people making salt on a plain impregnated
with it. They elixate the soil and filter it through a bunch of
grass in a hole in the bottom of the pot until all is evaporated.
Speaking of the country Livingstone says:
"We held along the plain till we came to Mponda's, a large
village, with a stream running past. The plain at the village
is very fertile, and has many large trees on it. The cattle of
Mponda are like fatted Madagascar beasts, and the hump seems
as if it would weigh one hundred pounds. The size of body is




EIGHTY-FIVE SLAVES IN A PEN.            461
so enormous that their legs, as remarked by our men, seemed
very small. lMponda is a blustering sort of person, but immensely interested in everything European. He says that he
would like to go with me.'Would not care though he were
away ten years.' I say that he may die in the journey.'He
will die here as well as there, but he will see all the wonderful doings of our country.' He knew me, having come
to the boat, to take a look incogntito when we were here formerly."
In this town Livingstone found an Arab slave-party, and
went to look at the slaves; seeing this, Mponda was alarmed
lest he should proceed to violence in his town, but he said to
him that he went to look only. Eighty-five slaves were in a
pen formed of dura stalks (-Iolcus sorghum).  The majority
were boys of about eight or ten years of age; others were grown
men and women. Nearly all were in the taming-stick; a few
of the younger ones were in thongs, the thong passing round the
neck of each. Several pots were on the fires cooking dura and
beans. A crowd went with him, expecting a scene, but Livingstone sat down, and asked a few questions about the journey, in
front. The slave-party consisted of five or six half-caste coast
Arabs, who said that they came from Zanzibar; but the crowd
made such a noise that nothing could be heard. Livingstone
asked if they had any objections to his looking at the slaves;
the owners pointed out the different slaves, and said that after
feeding them, and accounting for the losses in the way to the
coast, they made little by the trip. "I suspect," says the
doctor, " that the gain is made by those who ship them to the
ports of Arabia, for at Zanzibar most of the younger slaves we
saw went at about seven dollars a head. I said to them it was
a bad business altogether. They presented fowls to me in the
evening."
The next day the chief begged so hard that the doctor would
stay another day and give medicine to a sick child that he consented. He promised plenty of food, and, as an earnest of his
sincerity, sent an immense pot of beer in the evening.  The
child had been benefited by the medicine, and in his gratitude
the poor man gave more than could be taken.
One very pleasant feature of this country was the interest




462          WORK ACCOUNTED HONORABLE.
which all classes took in agricultural work. It did not seem to
be held to be a servile work as in many other parts of the country. While the slaves do the greater part of the work, the
highest classes consider it very honorable to be so employed.
The Manganja once had great quantities of first-class cattle, but
the Waiyau had taken possession of them.
ADZE, etc.




CHAPTER XXII.
ABOUT NYASSA.
Geological Notes-The Marenga-Livingstone Preaching-Small-Pox-Inveterate Thieves-Kirk's Range-Love Token-Black-haired Sheep-Earthquakes
-A Toper Chief-A Royal Escort-Whooping-Cough-The Hottest MonthMethods of Fertilization-No Animals-Bows and Arrows-Lip-Ring-A Prophetic Cow —Iron Works-Village of Smiths-Alarm of Mazitu —Native
Furnaces-Livingstone's Patience-A Disagreeable Head ManI-Level Country
-Portuguese Travellers - A Herd of Buffaloes - Industry-Wild Figs-A
Formidable Stockade-Trying News-A Steady Faith.
ON the 21st of September, 1866, Livingstone marched towards the west, crossing Cape Maclear.  They crossed hills
about seven hundred feet above Nyassa; these were covered with
trees and quite desolate-no inhabitants to be seen.  They encamped near the Sikoche. Here the rocks were hardened sandstone, resting on mica-schist, which had an efflorescence of alum
on it; above this was dolomite; the hills were often capped with
it and oak-spar, giving a snowy appearance.  After seven hours
of hard travel they arrived at a village where they spent the
Sabbath by the Usangasi, and near a remarkable mountain,
Nalnasi.  This tribe, or rather the Machinga, now supersede
the Manganja.  He speaks of a marked difference in the villages
of the latter and the Waiyau, who have handsome straw and
reed fences around their huts, making their villages look much
neater.  They next stopped at a village of Marenga, quite a
large one, at the bottom of the lake on the eastern side.  Finding the chief quite ill and having a loathsome disease it was
impossible for him to come to Livingstone.  Many of the people
had gone to the coast as traders, and returning with arms and
ammunition helped the Waiyau in their forays on the Manganja,
and finally set themselves up as an independent tribe. They
cultivate largely, and have cattle, but do not milk them. The
sponges here, which are formed by the vegetation, " which is not
healthy and falls and rots and then forms thick loam of a blackish
463




464                 SMALL-POX SEEN.
nature, is in masses two or three feet, rests on a bed of pure
river sand. In the dry season this loam is cracked, and frequently in as much as three inches in width and very deep.
The whole surface is now fallen down and rests on the sand,
but when the rain comes the first supply is nearly all absorbed
in the sand. The black loam forms soft slush and floats on the
sand. The narrow opening prevents it from moving off in a
land-slip, but an oozing spring rises at that spot. All the pools
in the lower portion of this spring-course are filled by the first
rains; which happen south of the equator when the sun goes
vertically over any spot. The second or greater rains happen
in his course north again, when all the bogs or river-courses
being wet, the supply runs off and forms the inundation; this
was certainly the case as observed on the Zambesi and Shire,
and taking the different times for the sun's passage north of the
equator it explains the inundation of the Nile."
The people at the town of Marenga, on Lake Nyassa, gathered
around Livingstone in great numbers to gaze at him. He took
the opportunity to point them to the Lamb of God and speak
of their souls,' to which they replied, " Our fathers have never
told us aught about the soul; we thought the whole man rotted
and came to nothing;" but they listened quite attentively,
especially when he told them that our Father loved them and
heard their prayers. He found this village afflicted with smallpox, a disease which was quite extraordinary in Africa, and his
skill was greatly sought by the sufferers.
On the 26th of September Livingstone was met by an Arab
who told Musa that the whole country was filled with Mazitu;
that forty Arabs and their followers had been killed by them
at Kasungu and he alone escaped. Musa and all the Johanna
men now declared they would go no farther.  Livingstoile
carried him to Marenga and asked him about the Mazitu. He
explained by saying the "Arabs and ammunition were brought
into the country annually, and the Manganja resisted Jumbe and
wvould allow no more to come-because they were the sufferers."
When Livingstone started on his journey the Johanna men
walked off, leaving the goods on the ground; he was not
sorry, however, as they were such inveterate thieves, they
could not be trusted. The stealing too was not from effect




A LOVE TOKEN.                   465
of hunger; when there was plenty they stole more. Musa
shared the dainties stolen by his men; he would reply when
Livingstone would speak to him  about it, " Me tell them
every day no man steal doctor's things."  At one time one mall
stole fifteen pounds of fine powder, another seven, another left
six tablecloths out of twenty-four, another called out to a man
to bring a fish and he would buy it with beads. MIusa knew it
all and connived at it, but terror drove him away at last.
They arrived at Kimsusa's, below Mount Mulundini of IKirk's
range (named after Dr. Kirk, who with Dr. Livingstone and
Mr. Charles Livingstone discovered Lake Nyassa). The chief
being absent, was sent for. Another Arab passed with a similar
tale of Mazitu, and stating his slaves were all taken. It is considered more respectable to be robbed by Mazitu than by Manganja, who are considered nobodies. On the 30th of this month,
being Sabbath, it was spent here, and Kimnsusa's entertainment
was cordiality and beer, but the latter was not accepted by the
doctor.
" The chief came quickly, and," says Livingstone, "seemed
glad to see his old friend; sent off at once and had a huge
ram  brought, which had either killed or seriously injured
a man. The animal came tied to a pole to keep him off the
man who held it, while a lot more carried him. He was prodigiously fat. This is a true African way of showing love —
plenty of food. Besides the ram, the chief brought a huge
basket of'pombe,' the native beer, and another of' usima,' or
porridge, and a pot of cooked meat."  They had so much, however, that it was impossible to carry what was given. The sheep
are of the black-haired kind; their tails grow very large. A
ram  given by a Waiyan chief previously had a tail which
weighed eleven pounds; but for the journey doubtless an additional two or three pounds would have been on it. Kimsusa
said that earthquakes were felt where Mpanda now lives,
but none where he is. He seemed changed, especially seemed
more rational about the Deity, and said it was owing to the
advice received from the doctor that his village was larger
and not from selling his people. On the 2d and 3d the chief
carried him off to a dense thicket and under lofty trees, to a
shady spot as the one in which business is transacted; but he
24




466                 A ROYAL ESCORT.
drank beer incessantly, in consequence of which he became extremely loquacious.  Livingstone reproved him for his loquacity,
and said that morning was the time if business was to be done,
proposing to send some of his men to the Babisa country and
lhe would pay them there where they could purchase ivory, and
when they brought it back he could buy clothing without selling
his people. The chief refused, saying that his people could not
be trusted, and that he would buy ivory from  the Arabs or
Babisa, who would conduct his business honestly.  Finally the
chief consented to give the doctor carriers to go to the Marabi,
but wished to be paid first. Livingstone consented to this, but
he (the chief) could not prevail on any one to go. There was
a Mobisa man in an adjoining village who was going to his own
country, and as the chief thought his men would run at the
first appearance of danger it was decided to go with the Mobisa.
IDr. Livingstone found him so very ignorant, not knowing even
the chief town of his country or any of the rivers, that he would
not have him as a guide.
IKimsusa came the next day early with a large basket of beer
and found our friends ready to start, but not relishing this much,
he declared he would force his men to go or he and his wives
would go as carriers-begged them  to remain. October 6th
finds our friends about seven miles northi, at a village opposite
the Pass Tapiri, and on a rivulet, Godedza. KIimsusa behaved
like a king, and his wives carried the loads strapped; one carried
beer, another meal. As soon as they got there, cooking commenced. They make a preparation of meal called " toku," which
the doctor liked very much, and they seeing he liked it made a
calabashful in the evening; he thinks he would have gotten
fat if he could have taken the beer, but it required a strong
digestion; a little flesh is necessary to relieve the acidity it caused,
but this is kept very carefully and dried on a stage before a
fire to prevent putridity.
Livingstone spoke of having heard whooping-cough in this
village; as this disease has not before been reported an African
one, it is worth notice. He found the Waiyau visitors quite impudent, forcing themselves into his hut uninvited, demanded
gun or game medicine, according to a practice the Arabs had
instituted to drive a trade. As Livingstone neared the Pass
Tapiri, Kimsusa and his men determined to go.




. --....
KNIFE AND ASSAGAI HEADS.
BECHUANA KNIVES.                      APRON.      ORNAMENTS MADE
OF MONKEYS' TEETH,








POPULAR INDUSTRIES.                 469
On the 8th of October they got to the first village, and here
the wives were paid for carrying his things; the chief offering
beer and toku, and the latter was accepted by the doctor. They
sang and clapped their hands until one o'clock in the morning.
October 9th found them four thousand feet above the sea. This
is the hottest month, but the air is clear and pleasant. The
country is very fine, lying in long slopes, with mountains rising
all around, from two to three thousand feet above this upland.
They are mostly jagged and rough (not rounded like those near
to Mataka's): the long slopes are nearly denuded of trees, and the
patches of cultivation are so large and often squarish in form
that but little imagination is requisite to transform the whole
into the cultivated fields of England; but no hedgerows exist.
The trees are in clumps on the tops of the ridges, or at the
villages, or at the places of sepulture. LJust now the young leaves
are out, but are not yet green. In some lights they look brown,
but with transmitted light, or wQhen one is near them, crimson
prevails. A yellowish-green is'met sometimes in the young
leaves, and brown, pink, and orange-red.  The soil is rich, but
the grass is only excessively rank in spots; in general it is short.
A kind of trenching of the ground is resorted to; they hoe deep,
and draw it well to themselves: this exposes the other earth to
the hoe. The soil is burned too: the grass and weeds are placed
in flat heaps, and soil placed over them: the burning is slow,
and most of the products of combustion are retained to fatten
the field; in this way the people raise large crops. Men and
-women and children engage in field labor, but at present many
of the men are engaged in spinning buaze and cotton. The
former is made into a coarse sacking-looking stuff, immensely
strong, which seems to be worn by the women alone; the men
are clad in uncomfortable goatskins. No wild animals seem to
be in the country, and indeed the population is so large they
would have very unsettled times of it. At every turning they
meet people, or see their villages; all armed with bows and
arrows. The bows are unusually long: Livingstone measured
one made of bamboo and found that along the bowstring it
measured six feet four inches.  Many carry large knives of fine
iron; and indeed the metal is abundant. Young men and women
wear the fhair long; a mass of small ringlets colnes down and




470                  COLD WEATHER.
rests on the shoulders, giving them the appearance of the ancient
Egyptians. One side is often cultivated, and the'mass hangs
jauntily on that side; some few have a solid cap of it. Not
many women wear the lip-ring: the example of the WVaiyau has
prevailed so far; but some of the young women have raised
lines crossing each other on the arms, which must have cost
great pain: they have also small cuts, covering in some cases
the whole body.
October 11th was a cold morning: thermometer 590 in hut;
doctor stated 69~. The huts were well built, top plastered; not
a ray of light is admitted, and the only way for it to get in is
through the door. This shows the winter is cold. They made
a westerly march to a village of Kulu, who entertained thell
liberally; the chief gave them a goat and started with them
when they left, but after going about two miles slipped off and
ran away. Some are naturally mean, some are noble: the mean
cannot help showing their nature, nor can the noble. Livingstone says he -always requested a head man of a village to go
with him, because they gave a good report of them, and no one
wishes to countenance people other than respectable, and it costs
little. He speaks here of coming to mountains having perpendicular sides; these have villages at the bottom as storehouses
for grain, with large granaries on the top containing food in
case of war. A large cow is kept there, which is supposed to
be capable of knowing and letting the owners know when war
is coming.
Livingstone speaks of a village on the western side of a mountain called Phunze (the h being an aspirate only). Many villages are planted round its base, but in front, that is, westwards,
they have plains, and there the villages are as numerous: mostly
they are within half a mile of each other, and few are a mile
from other hamlets. Each village has a clump of trees around
it. this is partly for shade and partly for privacy from motives
of decency. The heat of the sun causes the effluvia to exhale
quickly, so they are seldom offensive.  The rest of the country,
where not cultivated, is covered with grass, the seed-stalks about
knee-deep. It is gently undulating, lying in low waves, stretching northeast and southwest. The space between each wave is
usually occupied by a boggy spot or watercourse, which in some




PLANTING THE CROP.                471
cases is filled with pools with trickling rills between. All the
people are engaged at present in making mounds six or eight
feet square, and from two to three feet high. The sods in places
not before hoed are separated from the soil beneath and collected
into flattened heaps, the grass undermost; when dried, fire is
applied and slow combustion goes on, most of the products of
the burning being retained in the ground; much of the soil is
incinerated.  The final preparation is effected by the men
digging up the subsoil round the mound, passing each hoefill
into the left hand, where it pulverizes, and is then thrown on to
the heap. It is thus virgin soil on the top of the ashes and
burned ground of the original heap, very clear of weeds. At
present many mounds have beans and maize about four inches
high. Holes, a foot in diameter and a few inches deep, are
made irregularly over the surface of the mound, and about eight
or ten grains put into each: these are watered by hand and
calabash, and kept growing till the rains set in, when a very
early crop is secured.
After leaving Phunze they crossed a rivulet which emptied
into Lake [Nyassa-undulation tends northward. Some hills
were in view, but were mere mounds by the side of the mountains just left behind. This locality is over three thousand
feet above the sea and the air is delightful; but as they passed
many spots covered with a plant which grows in marshy places,
probably it would not be pleasant as a place of residence. The
fact of even maize being planted on mounds where the ground
is naturally quite dry tells us the climate must be very humid.
Kauma told Livingstone of some of his people, who had
lately come from Babisa, purchasing ivory: they would give
him information about the path. He took a fancy to one of
the boys' blankets, offering a native cloth, much larger, in exchange, and even a sheep to boot, but the owner being unwilling
to part with his covering, Kauma refused to send for the
travellers on account of the boy not wishing to deal with
him. This chieftain says his people are partly IKanthunda and
partly Chipeta; the first are mountaineers and the latter are
dwellers on the plain. The population of his village is large
and ceremonious; in speaking of them, Livingstone says,
"When we meet any one he turns aside and sits down. We




472           GREAT NUMBER OF PEOPLE.
have to ask who are the principal chiefs in' the direction
which we wish to take, and decide accordingly. Zomba was
mentioned as a chief on a range of hills on our west: beyond
him lies Undi m'senga. I had to take this route, as my people
have a very vivid idea of the danger of going northwards
towards the Mazitu."
One day's travel from Zomba, and west-southwest, is the part
where the Portuguese formerly went for gold. They did not
come there, however, as it would have been entirely useless.
The country is too full of people to allow wild animals
elbow-room: even the smaller ones are hunted by nets and
dogs. The doctor rested at Pachoma; whose head man offered
a goat and beer, but he declined and went on to Molomba. Here
KIauma's carriers turned because a woman died that morning as
they left the village; they asserted if she had died before they
started, not a man would have started. The head man of Molomba
was poor but liberal, gave a goat and cooked for Livingstone;
another head man from a neighboring village also called on their
friends here, brought beer and a fowl. He went on to Mironga
with them; they saw Mount iNyala in the distance, "like a sugar
loaf shot up in the air." This place being only one and a half
hours off, they went on to Chipangra; this is the proper name of
what on the Zambesi is corrupted into Shtpargca. The head
man here, a miserable hemp-consuming leper, fled from them
(hemp-dange is smoked in Central Africa).
They came to a smithy, and watched the founder at work
drawing off slag from the bottom of his furnace. He broke
through the hardened slag by striking it with an iron instrument inserted in the end of a pole, when the material flowed
out of the small hole left for the purpose in the bottom of
the furnace. The ore (probably the black oxide) was like
sand, and was put in at the top of the furnace, mixed with charcoal. Only one bellows was at work, formed out of goatskin,
and the blast was very poor. Many of these furnaces, or their
remains, are met with on knolls; those at work have a peculiarly
all hut built over them.
On the eastern edge of a valley lying north and south, with
the Diampwe stream flowing along it, and the Dzala nyama
range on the western side, are two villages screened by fine speci



THE HOPO AGAIN.                   473
mens of the fieus Indica.  One of these is owned by the head
man Theresa, and there they spent the night after travelling
only a few miles. It was found necessary to make very short
marches, for the sun was powerful, and the soil baked hard, very
trying on the feet: there was no want of water, however, as
they came to supplies every mile or two.
The people seemed very poor, having few or no beads; the
only ornaments being lines and cuttings on the skin. They
trust more to buaze than cotton. But two cotton patches were
noticed. The women were decidedly plain; but monopolize all
the buaze cloth. Theresa was excessively liberal, and having
informed them that Zomba lived some distance up the range and
was not the principal man in these parts, to avoid climbing the
hills, the party turned away to the north, in the direction of
the paramount chief, Chisumpi, whom they found to be only
traditionally great.
In passing along they came to a village embowered in trees.
The head man, a fine specimen of Kanthunda, tall, well-made,
fine forehead and Assyrian nose, proposed to them to stay all
night, but they declined, and after a long, hot journey they
reached Chitokola's village, a pleasant one on the east side of
Adiampwe valley.  Many elephants and other animals feed in
the valley, and the Bechualna hopo was seen again after many
years.  The hopo, you remember, is a funnel-shaped fence
which encloses a considerable tract of country; a "drive" is
organized and animals of all descriptions are urged on until they
become jammed together in the neck of the hopo, where they
are speared to death, or else destroyed in a number of pitfalls
placed there for the purpose.  In this neighborhood the
Nyumbo plant was noticed, bearing a pea-shaped or rather
papilionaceous flower with a fine scent.  It grows quite wild
and its flowers are yellow. Chaola is the poison used by the
Maravi for their arrows; it is said to cause mortification.
It is so cold in this climate that the huts are built with a
coating of plaster, put on the outside of the roof before the
grass thatch is applied.  Chitikola was absent from  Paritala,
when they arrived, to settle a milcando, a full day's journey offi
These milandos are petty lawsuits, generally caused by the
women. This was caused by a person taking a few ears of




474               A CASE FOR MUAVE.
Indian corn from another. The chief administered muave
(the ordeal poison), the person vomited: was therefore innocent.
On the 21st he returned foot-sore and tired and at once presented some beer. This continual reference to food is natural,
as it is an important point in the intercourse of travellers
with the native tribes in Africa. Before the chief arrived they
got nothing; the queen even begged a little meat for her sick
child, who was recovering from an attack of small-pox. There
being no shops they had to sit still without food. The next
day they received a goat cooked whole and plenty of porridge.
Chitikola guided them on the 22d to a village called Mashumba, the head man of which was the only chief who asked
anything except medicine. HIe usually gave two yards of unbleached calico.  They had to go in the direction of the
villages which were on friendly terms with the guides, and
sometimes they went but a short distance, as they studied to
make the days as short as possible. Chitoku, the head man of
the last village, took them to a village of smiths-four furnaces
and one smithy being at work. When they had crossed the
Chiniambo, they found the country near the hills covered with
gum-copal trees, the bark-cloth tree, and rhododendrons.
Mpanda led them a short cut to Chimuna's. On this route
they came into a herd of about fifteen elephants, and a number
of trees laid down by them: these animals chew  woody
roots and branches as thick as the handle of a spade. Many
buffaloes and a herd of elands were seen; a herd of baama or
hartebeest stood at tavo hundred paces, and one was shot.
" While all were rejoicing over the meat," says the doctor, "we
got news, from the inhabitants of a large village in full flight, that
the Mazitu were out on a foray. While roasting and eating meat
I went forward with Mpanda to get men from Chimuna to carry
the rest, but was soon recalled. Another crowd were also in full
retreat; the people were running straight to the Zalanyama,
range regardless of their feet, making a path for themselves
through the forest; they had escaped from  the Mazitu that
morning;' they saw them!' Mpanda's people wished to leave
and go to look after their own village, but we persuaded them,
on pain of a milando, to take us to the nearest village, that was
at the bottom of Zalanyama proper, and we took the spoor of




NATIVE FURNACES.                  475
the fugitives. The hard grass with stalks nearly as thick as
quills must have hurt their feet sorely, but what of that in comparison with dear life!  We meant to take our stand on the
hill and defend our property in case of the Mazitu coming near;
and we should, in the event of being successful, be a defence to
the fugitives who crowded up its rocky sides, but next morning
we heard that the enemy had gone to the south. Had we gone
forward, as we intended, to search for men to carry the meat,
we should have met the marauders, for the men of the second
party of villagers had remained behind guarding their village
till the Mazitu arrived, and they told us what a near escape I
had had from walking into their power."
"Approaching Chimuna's town," he continues, "our path was
through a forest, and saw a number of ant-hills-each the size of
the end of a one-story cottage —covered with men on guard watching for the Mazitu. A long line of villagers were just arriving
from the south, and we could see the smoke arising from the
settlements; none but men, the women and chief were on the
mountain called Pambe. These villagers gave us a good hut,
and sent at once to the mountain for their chief. He came in
the evening and begged us to remain, but we told him each chief
wished the same thing, and if we listened to all we would never
get on, and the rains were near; at length, however, we decided
to remain. The next day all the people came down from Pambe
and crowded to see the strangers."  Curiosity must have been
the special allotment of this people in the distribution of original
graces. But they were industrious, and industry covers almost
as many sins as charity, although it is a homespun cloak.
Their furnaces are rather bottle-shaped, and about seven
feet high by three broad. One old patriarch had heard of books
and umbrellas, but had never seen either. The oldest inhabitant had never travelled far from the spot in which he was
born; yet he had a good knowledge of soils and agriculture, hut
building, basket making, pottery, and the manufacture of barkcloth and skins for clothing; also making of nets, trap and
cordage. Chimuna was hospitable, and quite grateful when a
blister was applied by Livingstone for his rheumatic pains;
asked the latter to fire a gun that the Mazitu might hear and
know that armed men were here. They all say they are afraid




476                  THE TRUE SPIRIT.
of firearms; for this reason Livingstone believed they were not
Zulus at all, though they adopted some of their ways.
In going on to the village of Mapuio's several large villages
were passed, each surrounded by hedges of euphobia, and had
large shade trees.  When they arrived, Mapuio sent a calabash
of fresh-made beer, gave them a hut, and promised to cook for
them in the evening.  They had to employ five or six carriers,
and they generally rule the length of the day. Those from
Chimuna's village growled at the calico paid them, but a few
beads pleased them perfectly, and they parted good friends.
At this point Livingstone speaks of loving to please them, as
it is not likely he "will ever see them again, and it is right to
consider their desires. Is that not what is meant by'Blessed
is he that considereth the poor'?"  In cases of milando they
rely on their most distant friends and relatives, and are seldom
disappointed, though time at certain seasons-at present, for
instance-is precious.  Delicate features are here seen, and
small hands and feet. Ornaments are scarce; the mnen have
large slits in the lobe of the ear; the women indulge in this
painful luxury more than the men, probably for this reason.
They spent October 28th with Mapuio, and the next dayAMonday-went westward to Makosa's village through an illpeopled country.  The morning was lovely, the whole country
bathed in bright sunlight, and not a breath of air disturbed the
smoke as it slowly curled up from the heaps of burning weeds,
which the native agriculturist wisely destroys.  The people
generally were busy hoeing in the cool of the day. One old
man in a village where they rested had trained the little hair he
had left into a tail, which, well plastered with fat, he had bent
on itself and laid flat on his crown; another was carefully
paring a stick for stirring the porridge, and others were enjoying the cool shade of the wild fig trees which are always planted
at villages.  It is a sacred tree all over Africa and India, and
the tender roots which drop down towards the ground are used
as medicine-a universal remedy.  Can it be a tradition of its
being like the tree of life, which Archbishop Whately conjectures may have been used in Paradise to render man immortal?
One kind of fig tree is often seen hacked all over to get the sap,
which is used as bird-lime; bark-cloth is made of it too.




-— ~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~-:,~ —     -~~
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~sl(ll~~su~nrn~~_u~.-.~,:_.~ ==2kl~'T HILL  (page 70)








A DISAGREEABLE MAN.                 479
The first rain —a thunder shower-fell in the afternoon; it
was effectual, in one sense: it deprived a friend of the chance
of getting the five carriers who were in their gardens planting
seed. He got three and was compelled to remain over. They
journeyed westward the next day, and a little towards south
through a country full of trees; here they saw wild hogs in a
group, though marks of elephants, buffaloes and other animals
were abundant.
November 1st, 1866, they arrived at Chigumokire; the next
morning proceeded to Kangene. This village was situated in
a mass of mountains, and to reach this they had to go a little
farther south than desired. Their appearance caused much alarm,
and they were requested to wait until our spokesman explained
the unusual phenomena of the white man. Kangene was very
disagreeable to Livingstone, and as he had to employ five carriers off him he was in this chief's power.. He told the doctor
that a brother of his had been killed. by the Mazitu and lie
thought that probably they belonged to them. He told some
untruths and then began to beg powder. He represented the
country to be quite impassable from want of food; the Mazitu
had stripped it; the people were living off wild fruits. They
were detained here, on account of the illness of Simon, for four
days. The head mnan agreed to let them have five men, but demanded such enormous wages that on the 7th they took seven
loads forward, leaving two men with the rest; slept there and
returned for the remainder on the 8th. Kangene was disagreeable to the last. He asked where they had gone, and, having
described the turning point as near the hill Chimbimbe, he com-plimented them on going so far, and then sent an offer of three
men; but Livingstone preferred not to have those who would
have been spies unless he could give five and take on all the
loads.
The country over which they travel at present is level and
elevated, but there are mountains all about, which would appear quite mountainous if on a map. The Leue or Leuia is
said by the people to flow into the Loangwa. The Chigumokire
coming from the north in front, eastward of Irongwe (the same
mountains on which Kangene skulks out of sight of Mazitu),
flows into the Leue, and north of that is the Mando, a little




480             A HERD OF BUFFALOES.
stream flowing into the Bua.  The rivulets on the west flow in
deep defiles, and the elevation on which they travel makes it
certain that no water can come from the lower lands on the west.
It seems that the Portuguese in travelling to Casemobe did not
inquire of the people where the streams they crossed went, for
they are often wrongly put, and indicate the direction only in
which they appeared to be flowing at their crossing places. The
natives have a good idea generally of the rivers into which the
streams flow, though they are very deficient in information as
to the condition of the people that live on their banks. Some
of the Portuguese questions must have been asked through slaves,
who would show no hesitation in answering. Maxinga, or
Machinga, means "mountains" only; once or twice it is put
down Saxa de Maxinga, or Machinga, or Meanga, which, translated from  the native tongue, means "rocks of mountains, or
mountains of rocks."
November 10th found Livingstone at the "Village of
Smiths;" here he readily got five men to go back after his loads.
The sound of the hammer is constant from dawn till sunset. A
herd of buffaloes came near the village and Livingstone went
out and shot one, thus getting meat for his party and the villagers. During the night a lion came and gave a loud growl, and
finding he could not get the meat went off; the people kept up
a shouting for hours afterward in order to keep him away by
the human voice. They had nets loaned them to protect their
provisions from any kind of intruders. They might have gone
on, but Livingstone had a galled heel and could not travel.
Here he speaks of wild figs, which are 9nice when quite ripe.
The people at Kalumbi, on the Mando, once boasted a formidable stockade of wild fig and euphobia surrounding their village;
but though it withstood the assaults of men, even repelling the
warlike Mazitu, it fell before elephants and buffaloes, which
made an attack during the absence of the villagers. There are
many of the larger wild animals in this region, and it was not
uncommon to see the poor huts of the natives broken in and
even entirely destroyed by elephants; and there are sad stories
of lions breaking into these frail tenements and waging cruel
war on their occupants. Often the first intimation a family has
of the danger is the crashing of the monster through the thatch




STEADY FAITH.                   481
roof, and their only hope is in the spear, and terrific scenes
sometimes ensue.
While at this village there came news by which a more timid
heart than Dr. Livingstone's might have been greatly disturbed;
he was told that the Mazitu-the scourge of the whole country
— were at the village toward which they were about journeying.
But Livingstone was a courageous man, and besides being long
accustomed to the perils of African wanderings, he had an unwavering faith in God. He remained in the village amid the
busy preparations of the natives who expected the enemy to
break upon them very soon, but it is good to observe how his
dependence on God arose far grander than his courage. It is
good to see a strong man leaning on the care of God like a little
child.




CHAPTER XXIII.
A MONTH OF WANT.
Days of Anxiety-Manganja Blood-Manganja and Waiyau-Artizans-Native
Agriculture —-Beautiful Scenery-Iron Trade-An Elephant Hunter-Difficulties - Carriers - Livingstone's Love for Nature - Mlemories-No Food-A
Splendid Valley of Lilies-Stockades-Sunday at Zeore-Rain-Making-The
Slave Idea in East Africa-Hedges of Bamboo-Bark Cloth-Huts for the
Spirits of the Dead-Contrasts in Character-Forests and Rains-Beautiful
Animals-The Zebra very Beautiful —The Loangwa-Bad for Worse-The
Babisa-A Miserable Set-Sorrows Multiplied-A Mopane Forest-Nyarmazi
-Trading with a Woman —Loss of Goats-Experience with a Guide-The Hills
Again-Bee Hunters-Want, Want, Want! - Noble Utterances-"Always
Hungry "-Elephant Huntingr —Sword Hunting-Desolate Land-No BreadHunger-Escape from a Cobra-The Loss of the Dog —Mushrooms-A]l the
iliedicine Lost-The Worst of All-Livingstone's Gentleness-" RIeal Biting
Hungler "-Beads as Currency-The Chambese at Last.
TILE two days in the little village of Kalumbe were full of
anxiety.  The women, who are the prizes always envied with
most covetous eyes by the Mazitu, had been sent away, and the
men moved about among their rude furnaces and forges with a
watchfulness which expressed the seriousness of the occasion
more emphatically than anything they might have said. The
Manganja blood was clearly seen in the industry with which
they handled the implements of their rude art. The civilities
of this race were always appreciated as truly refreshing after
being annoyed by the impudence and impositions of the Waiyau,
who it could be clearly seen felt themselves the dominant race
in the country.  One of the most interesting privileges of the
traveller is the opportunity for observing the differences which
distinguish the tribes, all alike as they may be in their general
conditions of ignorance and degradation. And there was rarely
noticed a more decided difference in those so intimately associated
than distinguished these two races.  As a rule, the Manganja
are extremely clever in all the savage arts and manufactures.
Their looms turn out a strong serviceable cotton cloth; their iron
482




CONTRASTED CHARACTERS.               483
weapons and implements show a taste for design which is not
reached by the neighboring tribes, and in all matters that relate
to husbandry they excel: but in dash and courage they are deficient. The Waiyau, on the contrary, have round apple-shaped
heads, as distinguished from the long well-shaped heads of the
poor Manganja; they are jocular and merry, given to travelling,
and bold in war-these are qualities which serve them well as
they are driven from pillar to post through slave wars and
internal dissension, but they have not the brains of the Manganja, nor the talent to make their mark in any direction where
brains are wanted.
The skill of the artizans even among this clever race seemed
to diminish, however, as the distance from the lake increased.
They have very little knowledge of anything beyond their own
limited possessions, and have pursued their avocations in the
face of difficulties which call hardly be estimated by those unfamiliar with the thoroughly commotional character of a community comprising as many sovereignties as there are villages,
and possessing no higher law than the capricious jealousy or
covetousness of the hearts of men in the rudest barbarism. But
besides their working in iron and the agricultural duties, the
people of this region are much given to hunting with nets, and
though there was nothing on the gigantic scale of the famous
hopo of the Bakwains, there was certainly abundant opportunity
for the employment of all their skill and courage. Indeed the
country was literally overrun with the monsters of the forest,
and we can hardly credit the accounts of the indifferent impudence
with which they stalk about the abodes of men.
Two days passed and the Mazitu not making their appearance
Livingstone led his party on towards Kcnyenje. The scenery
is described as being very lovely-as most of the mountain
scenery of the country is. Over the ruggedness a beautiful carpet
of green hung gracefully as could be, and lofty trees standing
proudly on summits and in gorges regulated the configuration
of the range with wave-like symmetry.  These large trees were
more numerous than they were nearer Lake Nyassa. Frequently
along this route, following as they did the highlands, the party
crossed the little streams which had sources in the neighborhood
flowing in the direction of the lake.




484            SERIOUS EMBARRASSIMENTS.
The country continued strewn with the evidences of the ancient
iron works. Speaking of these, the doctor says: " The iron trade
must have been carried on for an immense time in the country,
for one cannot go a quarter of a mile without meeting pieces of
slag and broken pots, calcined pipes, and fragments of the furnaces, which are converted by the fire into brick. It is curious
that the large stone sledge-hammers now in use are not called
by the name stone-hammers, but by a distinct word,'kama:'
nyundo is one made of iron."  Though they are greatly inferior
to the Manganja in the lake region in their pottery, the people
claim to have come originally from Nyassa, and they also declare
that they received the knowledge of iron-smelting from Chisunypi
(God).
At Kanyenje he received the usual attentions; and it was exceedingly gratifying to find that this town had escaped the
ravages of the Mazitu during the last year. The chief readily
furnished some food, and though not entirely free from some
of the more disagreeable traits of men of his sort, was reasonably polite. Among the men who figured most conspicuously
about his court was an old gentleman who displayed on his arm
twenty-seven rings of elephants' skin, which marked him as the
great hunter of the town. And when it is remembered that
these trophies had all been won by the spear alone, we should
not be astonished that they are worn with great pride.
But although there was abundance of large game reported on
all sides the party passed on with no special adventure. Indeed
the journey was already becoming one full of anxiety and hardship to Livingstone. They were advancing slowly toward the
north, and his stock of goods had been sadly diminished through
the dishonesty of the men who had already so faithlessly deserted
him. And besides the embarrassment of these losses he was
under the necessity of having carriers for the small store which he
still possessed. These embarrassments, added to the devastations
of the Mazitu, made it exceedingly difficult to procure food on
any terms. The inconvenience of being so dependent on carriers
was perhaps more annoying than it would have been among the
tribes farther south, because the chiefs are less absolute and feel
more the importance of courting their people. It was not unfreqiuently the case that some trifling whim on the part of the




THE CHARMS OF NATURE.                485
people made it impossible to secure transportation, and in such
cases the only thing to be done was to post a guard about the
packs and go on until men could be engaged to bring them
up. This had been the case at Kanyenje. The head man,
Kanyindula, came on the morning of the doctor's departure
from his village with three carriers, but they demanded paynment
in advance for their services. This was one of the tricks which a
traveller is not long finding out, and Livingstone knew too well
that he would be only the poorer by accepting them on those
terms, and decided to go on to a little village at the " fountain
eye" of the Blua, whence he sent men back for the loads.
But the entrance in his journal of that date shows that he
found abundant use for even the hours which might have hung
very heavily on the hands of an ordinary man. His ardent love
for nature always came to his relief, breaking the power of the
innumerable annoyances of his lonely and toilsome marches.
His eye loved to wander over the splendid mountains, and his
habit of careful observation converted every scene into a study.
In this neighborhood he noticed considerable quantities of quartz
rock, and fragments of titaniferous iron ore, with hematite
changed by heat and magnetic ore; and he thought it worthy
of mention that the little rivulets about the resting place flowed
some of them northward toward the upper part of Nyassa, and
others southward, making a contribution to the Loangwa and
finding their way to the sea with the majestic Zambesi. A
few lines of his written at this time exhibit the spirit of the
man, and gives ns a glimpse of the country which will help us
to realize more fully his surroundings.
"We left Bua fountain-latitude 13~ 40' south-and made
a short march to Mokatoba, a stockaded village, where the
people refused to admit us till the head man came. They
have a little food here, and sold us some. We have been
on rather short commons for some time, and this made our
detention agreeable.  We rose a little in altitude after leaving
this morning; then, though in the same valley, made a little
descent towards the north-northwest. High winds came driving over the eastern range, which is called Mchinje, and
bring large masses of clouds, which are the rain-givers.  They
seem to come from the southeast. The scenery of the valley is
25




486             AFRICAN MOUNTAINEERS.
lovely and rich in the extreme. All the foliage is fresh-washed
and clean; young herbage is bursting through the ground; the
air is deliciously cool, and the birds are singing joyfully: one,
called Mzie, is a good songster, with a loud, melodious voice."
The charms of nature multiplied about him as he advanced; at
every village, however, there was the unwelcome news of " no
food." The ravages of the Mazitu met them again. The inhabitants had generally resorted to the custom of surrounding their
homes by stockades, and in their extremity, like true mountaineers,
as they were, would fly to their rocky fastnesses and from the safe
cliffs wage a most effectual war on their assailants with huge stones
-the artillery of mountain clans in all ages-which they knew
well how to hurl down along the familiar paths. Crossing the
Sandili, it was found that the route lay along the slope which
inclines to the Loangwa, and very soon the mountains were
towering behind, and a comparatively level country stretched
away toward the north, covered with a sylvan foliage which
might easily deceive the most practised eye if viewed only from
a distance. The seeming forests of stately trees oin nearer approach dwindled into mere hop-poles. Vast districts were found
to be kept clothed with a growth of these poles, but the mystery
was easily solved when it was noticed that the whole domain
was swarming with charcoal burners.
On the 24th of November Livingstone entered Zeore's village,
on the banks of a stream  of insignificant appearance, called
Lokuzhwa, flowing away toward the Loangwa through a splendid valley distinguished by its rich, dark red loam, above which
innumerable lilies of the amaryllis kind had woven their pure
white blossoms into a snowy carpet. The people of the village
called themselves Echewa, and, though a tribe of the Manganja,
were distinguished by a different marking from the Atumboka,
who dwelt more among the hills.
The formidable appearance of the stockade had secured this
village from the assaults of the Mazitu, who came only and
looked on it and departed; and as the people had food to sell,
Dr. Livingstone decided to remain there over Sunday. Of this
people he says: "The men have the hair dressed as if a number
of the hairs of elephants' tails were stuck around the head: the
women wear a small lip-ring, and a straw or piece of stick in the




SUNDAY SERVICE.                  487
lower lip, which dangles down about level with the lower edge
of the chin: their clothing in front is very scanty. The men know
nothing of distant places, the Manganja being a very stay-at-home
people. The stockades are crowded with huts, and the children
have but small room to play in the narrow spaces between."
The service of Sunday, which Dr. Livingstone never neglected, attracted the attention of the natives, and interested them
considerably. Rain was greatly needed, and as they had the
impression that he was praying for it, they were probably
watching for the effects.  It must seem very strange to persons who though heathen are still so fixed in their peculiar
beliefs, that others should account all their cherished creed a silly
fiction. The head man of this village was intelligent, however,
and seemed to appreciate the instruction he received. He was
not enough interested in his visitor to be at very much pains for
his convenience.
Speaking of him the doctor says: "Zeore's people would not
carry without prepayment, so we left our extra loads as usual and
went on, sending men back for them: these, however, did not
come till the 27th, and then two of my men got fever. I groan
in spirit, and do not know how to make our gear into nine loads
only. It is the knowledge that we shall be detained some two
or three months during the heavy rains that makes me cleave
to it as means of support."
But he did not suffer his troubles to interfere with his observation of the customs and country, as we see in the following extracts: "Advantage has been taken by the people of spots where
the Lokuzhwa goes round three parts of a circle to erect their
stockaded villages. This is the case here, and the water, being
stagnant, engenders disease. The country abounds in a fine
light blue flowering perennial pea, which the people make use
of as a relish. At present the blossoms only are collected and
boiled. On inquiring the name, chilobe, the men asked me if
we had none in our country. On replying in the negative, they
looked with pity on us:'What a wretched country not to have
chilobe!' It is on the highlands above; we never saw it elsewhere. Another species of pea (chilobe weza), with reddish
flowers, is eaten in the same way; but it has spread but little in
comparison. It is worth remarking that porridge *of maize or




488               " PROPERTY IN MAN."
sorghum  is never offered without some pulse, beans, or bean
leaves, or flowers; they seem to feel the need of it, or of pulse,
which is richer in flesh-formers than the porridge.
"Last night a loud clapping of hands by the men was followed by several half-suppressed screams by a woman. They
were quite eldritch, as if she could not get them out. Then
succeeded a lot of utterances as if she were in ecstasy, to which
a man responded,' Moio, moio.' The utterances, so far as I
could catch, were in five-syllable snatches-abrupt and labored.
I wonder if this'bubbling or boiling over' has been preserved
as the form in which the true prophets of old gave forth their'burdens?' One sentence, frequently repeated towards the
close of the effusion, was'linyamna  lta,''flesh of the bow,'
showing that the Pythoness loved venison killed by the bow.
The people applauded and attended, hoping that rain would
follow her efforts. And next day she was duly honored by
drumming and dancing."
Here, as in so many of the villages, Livingstone found the
idea of property in man and slave-trading. This belief in the
right to sell a man, while it seems very widely extended, the
doctor assures us, is found, except in the Arabs, only in two
families of the people in the eastern part of Africa. The Zulus,
as we know, and the Bechuanas, abhor slavery. The Waiyau
and the Manganja only welcome the emissaries of Zanzibar
markets with their degrading yokes.
He was now nearing the Loangwa, and it would be refreshing
to see again, though so far up, the river which flowed away
through the familiar scenes of the Zambesi and on into the great
ocean. It would be like the opening of a window on the loneliness of a long imprisonment. One of the most beautiful things
in the character of Livingstone was the fondness with which he
cherished the sweet memories of scenes endeared by the associations of other days, and the readiness with which his mind
yielded to the guidance of the simplest incidents and most
ordinary objects, which led him in imagination among them
even when enduring severest hardships and burdened with most
onerous duties. He was not wandering in the wilds of Africa,
as some had unkindly hinted, because he did not appreciate the
endearments of home; no man ever loved the refinements of




CLOTH-MAKING.                   489
civilization more than he; and this was not a small part of his
singular power with the untutored inhabitants of those wilds.
The villages along his route as he approached the Loangwa
were generally surrounded by hedges of bamboo, and the signs
of industry were cheering. Besides the noise of forges and
furnaces, there was heard everywhere the tap-tap-tapping,
which reminded the travellers of the peculiar and ingenious
cloth-making which engages so many quick hands. This cloth
is manufactured of bark. The bark on being removed from
the tree is steeped in water or in a black muddy hole till the
outer of the two inner barks can be separated, then commences
the tapping with the mallet, by which the fibres are separated
and softened and prepared for their rustic looms. Sometimes
there were seen beautiful.indications of tenderer feelings and
loftier thoughts than some may dream of as existing so far away
from the confines of the light of boasted civilization.  The ideas
of God were vague indeed, and there were only the suggestions
of the untaught souls about the existence of man beyond the
grave, but in these villages there were often seen beautiful little
huts, two feet high only, which bereaved parents and friends
had made with great care, where they loved to place their daily
offerings to the loved ones who had gone into the mysterious
gloom. It was sad to think that they had no clearer ideas of
the future, but it was a welcome thing to see even such evidences of the recognition of human immortality, and it was
pleasing to observe such tender mindfulness of the dead. But
there are painful contrasts in human nature, and in these very
villages where parents and relatives were so thoughtful of their
own dead, there was no friendly hand to stretch across the line
of consanguinity and succor the desolate orphan; if a mother
died, no one cared for the helpless child she might leave. Livingstone passed one of these poor little lncared-for ones crying
piteously for its mother, who could not come back out of death,
and all the passing women did was to say carelessly, "She
is coming." His own tender care came too late, and the
little crying one passed away.  Surely the Christian world
cannot withhold from the millions of Africa that blessed truth
which, like the heart of Christ, ignores the lines of interest and
community, and makes of all men one family in the Lord!




490              THE RAINS BEGINNING.
We cannot tell how the inspiring hope of Africa's redemption
strengthened the heart and hand of the great man who, in all
his devotion to science, was still obeying the loftier anxieties
which first moved him to lay himself on God's altar an offering
for the heathen. More and more he needed to be sustained; no
aspiration could more than match the painfulness of the daily
life he was leading. The hills were clothed with forests of
dwarf trees, whose spreading boughs accumulated the heavy
drops of the rains which were beginning to fall very frequently,
and seemed to take delight in shaking their dripping leaves just
when the travellers passed, as if conspiring with the clouds to
drench them most unpityingly. This region, like other parts
of the land, receives its favors from above at regular intervals,
and there are long periods when the sun holds undisputed
sway; and though the heat is not so intolerable as in the barren
regions, and the atmosphere is purer than in the rank marshes
of the lower lands along the great rivers, the ground becomes
dry and hard, and all about its surface are deep cracks which,
in the rainy season, are soon filled, and their lingering traces
hidden by beautiful grasses and flowers. Now and then the
monotony of the scrub forests was relieved by the appearance
of statelier trees; the majestic mopane sometimes appeared, and
beautiful birds, and odd little insects, and various animalselands, zebras, gnus, kamas, pallahe, buffaloes, and reed-bucks.
These are among the choice game of the country, and the doctor
was fortunate, although he was no longer skilful as a hunter,
in securing considerable supplies. Perhaps no animal in Africa
is at once so much admired for its beauty and at the same time
so highly valued for its flesh as the singularly wild and fantastic
zebra; his beautifull stripes flashing in the sun, and his marvellous gracefulness as he dashes about the flowers or through the
forests, fill the beholder with admiration, and there is no finer
sport than dashing into thle midst of the splendid herds of them
which move about almost anywhere.
After innumerable annoyances from guides and trouble with
carriers and days of struggling along the most unpath-likepaths, Livingstone at last reached the Loangwa and halted at
the stronghold of Maranda. But wearying as the march had
been, there was nothing refreshing to be seen or heard there,




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CROSSING THE LOANGWA.                493
only the desolate, neglected appearance of the fields, and stories
of the ravages of the national banditti who were the terror of
all the region through which he had passed. And being unable to obtain food of any sort for any consideration, the party
decided on crossing the river immediately. They were now
in 12~ 45' S.-about three hundred miles above the confluence
of the Loangwa with the Zambesi, with which we became
familiar in earlier portions of this work. Though so far away
from its mouth, the river was from seventy to a hundred yards
wide and quite deep. It flows down from the mountains on
the north out of the Chitale country. The sandy bottom which
distinguishes so many African rivers and the great sand-banks
were features to be expected, and the alluvial banks with great
forest trees along them were familiar scenes. There, too, were
the various animals whose presence intensify the wildness of
the land.
The experiences had been trying enough in Manganja country,
but a more painful pilgrimage was before him.
The party, which had been reduced, first by the return of the
worthless Sepoys and afterwards by the desertion of Musa and
his Johanna men, had recently been reinforced by two Waiyau
and another man who had been employed as keeper of four goats,
which were very highly valued by Dr. Livingstone for their
milk. After crossing the Loangwa the doctor headed his party
more directly north toward the. foot of Lake Tanganyika. The
route lay first across a vast extent of low flat country-a country where nature had been very lavish of her wealth, but sadly
cursed by human degradation.  The Babisa who occupied the
land under various local names, while dependents of the great
paramount chieftain on the north, as is generally the case in the
remote dependencies of African chieftains, gave little thought
to his authority, and imitated the Mazitu in all the idle plundering habits which distinguish those tribes who make trading
their principal business. It required only a few days in their
midst to show Dr. Livingstone that he could expect very little
civility at their hands. Their business was in slaves and ivory,
and there was a poor welcome for the traveller who wanted
neither. It was almost impossible to purchase food of any sort,
and frequently even a hut was refused. The hardships must




494               A NATURAL ARCADE.
have been severe which were almost unendurable to the man
who had already experienced patiently so much want and exposure, and who was braced by higher aspirations and deeper
convictions of duty than had ever impelled an explorer before.
The great difficulty of procuring guides greatly aggravated the
other miseries of the march. It was trying indeed to be compelled to strike across the pathless forests, wet and hungry, with
almost certainty that the to-morrow would bring nothing better
than to-day. It was fortunate-indeed it was more than fortunate, it was providential-that this inhospitable land was alive
everywhere with splendid game, and from these herds the entire
store of food was supplied. Day after day there was the same
wearying haggling of the natives about every trifling matter and
the same agonizing gnawings of hunger. But there were charms
in the forest scenery which sometimes cheered the great man's
soul as he passed along with his little band of followers. Sometimes the great mopane trees prevailed: their immense size, the
regular distances at which they stood, and the absence from their
stately trunks of lower branches, while their splendid foliage
wove a canopy far above through which the golden sunshine was
filtered down on the lovely wild flowers, and the wings of birds
and glossy coats of zebras and antelopes, formed a grand arcade
for God to smile on. These beauties and the grandeur were
not lost on. Livingstone.
Charming as had been the choral melodies which sometimes
broke on his ear along the Zambesi, there were many new
notes to be distinguished here, and there could be little doubt that
the region was richer in ornithological life than any he had seen.
On December the 20th Livingstone reached the village of
Casembe, but not the great chief who figures elsewhere in his
story. This man"was the master of a miserable hamlet consisting of only a few huts. The appearance was enough to dash all
the hopes which had been cherished of finding food. Nothing
could be had; " no grain, not even herbs." "After a short march
from here," savs he, "we came to the Nyamazi, a considerable rivulet coming from the north to fall into the Loangwa.
It has the same character, of steep alluvial banks, as Pamazi, and
about the same width, but much shallower; loin deep, though
somewhat swollen; from fifty to sixty yards wide. We saw




THE LOANGWA VALLEY.                   495
some low hills, of coarse sandstone, and on crossing these we
could see, by looking back, that for many days we had been
travelling over a perfectly level valley, clothed with a mantle of
forest. The barometers had shown no difference of level from
about one thousand eight hundred feet above the sea. We began
our descent into this great valley when we left the source of the
Bua; and now these low hills, called Ngale or Ngaloa, though
only one hundred feet or so above the level we had left, showed
that we had come to the shore of an ancient lake, which probably was let off when the rent of Kebra-basa on the Zambesi
was made, for we found immense banks of well-rounded shingle
above-or, rather, they may be called mounds of shingle-all
of hard silicious schist with a few pieces of fossil-wood among
them. The gullies reveal a stratum of this well-rounded shingle,
lying on a soft greenish sandstone, which again lies on the coarse
sandstone first observed.  This formation is identical with that
observed formerly below the Victoria Falls.  We have the
mountains still on our north and northwest (the so-called mountains of Bisa, or Babisa), and from them  the Nyamazi flows,
while Pamazi comes round the end, or what appears to be the
end, of the higher portion."
But hunger, the hard master, drove them on toward the village of one Kavimba, who had successfully resisted the Mazitu.
There he was destined to disappointment as usual. Kavimba
gave only a small return-present for the offering which was
made him, and would sell nothing except for most exorbitant
prices. All day the 24th of December they remained trying to
get some grain.  But, besides the ordinary difficulties of dealing
with these professional traders, in this particular place the women
were rather in authority, and the Kavimba very readily turned
over the matter of bargaining to his spouse. She went about
her business after the fashion of a fish-woman. There was no
end to her swearing and cursing, nor could any amount of patience
draw from her anything like a reasonable return for the articles
she desired.                                  )
The next day was Christmas, but instead of a Christmas
dinner the day Nwas made painfully memorable by the loss of
the four goats which Livingstone had kept so carefuilly in his
long march.  It was a sad loss indeed; with no bread, only




496          BEE HUNTERS AND THEIR BIRD.
such coarse food as could be picked up here and there, it was
bad to be robbed of the last article which gave him any sort
of satisfaction.  "The loss," he said, "affected me more than
any one could imagine." But every day brought so many ills
that there was hardly time for more than a thought about each.
From the town of Kavimba a man had volunteered his services
as guide: only the next day he asked for the cloth which he was
to receive that he might wear it, as his bark cloth was a miserable covering; no sooner had he received it than he watched his
chance and bolted on the first opportunity.
Being thus left to their own judgment they pressed on, following as nearly as possible the track of a travelling party of
Babisa, and the afternoon of the 27th of December reached the
hills on the north, where the Nyamazi rises; and after passing
up the bed of a rivulet for some time began the ascent, of which
he says: "At the bottom and in the rivulet the shingle stratum
was sometimes fifty feet thick, then as we ascended we met mica
schist tilted on edge, then gray gneiss, and last an igneous trap
among quartz rocks, with a greal deal of bright mica and talc
in them. On resting near the top of the first ascent two honey
hunters came to us. They were using the honey-guide as an
aid; the bird came to us as they arrived, waited quietly during
the half-hour they smoked and chatted, and then went on with
them."
This extraordinary bird flies from tree to tree in front of the
hunter, chirruping loudly, and will not be content till it arrives
at the spot where the bees' nest is; it then waits quietly till the
honey is taken, and feeds on the broken morsels of comb which
fall to its share.
Near sunset the party encamped by water on the cool height
and made their shelter for the night. A few extracts- from the
last journal will serve better to convey the true picture of the
weary, laborious life which the great man was leading than any
version of it we could give, and will also serve better to reveal
the real spirit of the man.
"The next day," he writes, " three men, going to hunt bees,
came to us as we were starting and assured us that Moerwa's
was near. The first party had told us the same thing, and so
often have we gone long distances as'pafupi (near),' when in




MOERWA'S VISIT.                  497
reality they were'patari (far),' that we begin to think 2afupi
means' I wish you to go there,' and patari the reverse. In
this case near meant an hour and three-quarters from our
sleeping-place to Moerwa's!
"When we look back from  the height to which we have
ascended we see a great plain clothed with dark green forest
except at the line of yellowish grass, where probably the Loangwa
flows. On the east and southeast this plain is bounded at the
extreme range of our vision by a wall of dim blue mountains
forty or fifty miles off.
"' Moerwa came to visit me in my hut, a rather stupid man,
though he has a well-shaped and well-developed forehead, and
tried the usual little arts of getting us to buy all we need here
though the prices are exorbitant.'No people in front; great
hunger there.'' We must buy food here and carry it to support
us.' On asking the names of the next head man he would not
inform me, till I told him to try and speak like a man; he then
told us that the first Lobemba chief was Motuna, and the next
Chafunga. We have nothing, as we saw no animals in our way
hither, and hunger is ill to bear. By giving Moerwa a good
large cloth he was induced to cook a mess of maere or millet
and elephant's stomach; it was so good to get a full meal that
I could have given him another cloth, and the more so as it was
accompanied by a message that he would cook more next day
and in larger quantity. On inquiring next evening he said' the
man had told lies,' he had cooked nothing more: he was prone
to lie himself, and was a rather bad specimen of a chief.
"While resting en route for Chitemba's, who it was reported
had successfully resisted the Mazitu, Moerwa, with all his force
of men, women, and dogs, came up, on his way to hunt elephants.
The men were furnished with big spears, and their dogs are used
to engage the animal's attention while they spear it; the women
cook the meat and make huts, and a smith goes with them to
mend any spear that may be broken."
Continuing their journey over level plateaux on which the
roads are wisely placed, they hardly realized that they were
travelling in a mountainous region. It was all covered with
dense forest, which in many cases is pollarded, from being cut
for bark cloth or for hunting purposes. Masuko fruit abounds.
From the cisalpinve and gum-copal trees bark cloth is made.




498               A BEAUTIFUL SPIRIT.
They now came to large masses of hbematite, which was often
ferruginous: there was conglomerate too, many quartz pebbles
being intermixed.  " It seems," says Livingstone, " as if when
the lakes existed in the lower lands the higher levels gave forth
great quantities of water from  chalybeate fountains, which deposited this iron ore."  Gray granite or quartz with talc in it
was discovered under the hkematite.
Of this region the doctor writes: "The forest resounds with
singing birds, intent on nidification. Francolins abound, but
are wild.'Whip-poor-wills,' and another bird, which has a
more labored treble note and voice-' Oh, oh, oh!' Gay flowers
blush unseen, but the people have a good idea of what is eatable and what not. I looked at a woman's basket of leaves
which she had collected for supper, and it contained eight or ten
kinds, with mushrooms and orchidaceous flowers. We have a
succession of showers to-day, from northeast and east-northeast.
We are uncertain when we shall come to a village, as the Babisa
will not tell us where they are situated. In the evening we
encamped beside-a little rill, and made our shelters, but we had
so little to eat that I dreamed the night long of dinners I had
eaten, and might have been eating."
Nothing could be more beautiful than the beautiful words
which follow this mention of the bitter want which was wearing
away the life of this singularly good man-" I shall make this
beautifiul land known, which is an essential part of the process
by which it will become the' pleasant haunts of men."'" It was
Christ-like truly to be thus able to find sweet consolation in the
hope of others' happiness. We are prepared for the words which
come to us in his journal on December 31st: "We end 1866.
It has not been so fruitful or useful as I intended. Will try to
do better in 1867, and be better, more gentle and loving; and
may the Almighty, to whom I commit my way, bring my desires to pass and prosper me! Let all the sins of 1866 be blotted
out for Jesus' sake!"  How the great, humble, pure, tender,
loving and trusting soul shines out in such words! Not unlike
it is the journal on January 1st, 1867: "May he who is full of
grace and truth impress his character on mine; grace, eagerness
to show favor, truth, truthfulness, sincerity, honor, for his mercyv's
sake!"




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ELEPHANT HUNTING.                  501
Being obliged to remain on account of a threatened set-in rain,
the doctor bought a senze (atulocaudatus swindernianus), a ratlooking animal; he was glad to get anything in the shape of
meat.
The next day was no better, and the few lines he wrote tell
a sad story: "It is a set-in rain. The boiling-point thermometer shows an altitude of three thousand five hundred and
sixty-five feet above the sea. Barometer, three thousand nine
hundred and eighty-three feet ditto. We get a little maere here,
and prefer it to being drenched and our goods spoiled. We
have neither sugar nor salt, so there are no soluble goods; but
cloth and gunpowder get damaged easily. It is hard fare and
scanty; I feel always hungry, and am constantly dreaming of
better food when I should be sleeping. Savory viands of former
times come vividly up before the imagination, even in my waking hours; this is rather oddc as I am not a dreamer; indeed I
scarcely ever dream but when I am going to be ill or actually so."
They were now on the northwestern brim of the great Loangwa
valley. The rainy season, which had fully set in, is the harvest
time for the expert hunters of the country. The ground soon
becomes exceedingly boggy, and the elephant, taken at the disadvantage of sinllking fifteen to eighteen inches in soft mud every
step they take, falls an easy prey to his skilful assailant. This
great giant of the forest is always easily confused, as we know,
by the packs of yelping dogs. The hunters of this valley are
doubly secure when they add this confuision to the embarrassment of bad footing. They watch their time and run up behind
the elephant and with a single blow of a sharp axe hamstring
him. In other parts of the country the method of hunting
these huge monsters is more perilous, and more skilful than
with spear, axe or gun. The sword figures as the chosen weapon.
The hunters surround the animal, and eluding all his assaults,
while near enough to torment him greatly with their sharp and
glittering blades, with matchless dexterity succeed in dealing
the disabling and fatal blows. Mr. Baker, who witnessed much
of this sword hunting, declares that nothing can excel the
wonderful skill of these men.
But half starved and full of pain, his whole heart set on the
accomplishment of a great work, Livingstone thought little of




502               TRIALS AND HUNGER.
the sports which have been the principal charm of African exploration to most of those who have left us the record of their
journeys.
It was the 6th of January before he could continue his journey.
As he advanced the land was more than ever desolate; no people
except at wide intervals, and even the animals began to disappear. That day also a serious misfortune occurred; the chronometers got injured by being dropped by the boy who carried
them. No food was to be had; yet the country was beautiful.
The valley had the appearance of beautiful parks; but they
were all full of water, and the greatest caution was needed continually to avoid falling into the deep waterholes made by the
feet of elephants or buffaloes.
His own language will tell us most touchingly the story of
those days: "In the ooze generally the water comes half-way
up the shoe, and we go plash, plash, plash, in the lawn-like
glade. There are no people here now in these lovely wild valleys; but to-day we came to mounds made of old for planting
grain, and slag from  iron furnaces. The guide was rather
offended because he did not get meat and meal, though he is
accustomed to leaves at home, and we had none to give except
by wanting ourselves: he found a mess without much labor in
the forest. My stock of meal came to an end to-day, but Simon
gave me some of his. It is not the unpleasantness of eating
unpalatable food that teases one, but we are never satisfied; I
could brace myself to dispose of a very unsavory mess, and think
no more about it; but this maere engenders a craving which
plagues day and night incessantly.
"We crossed the Muasi, flowing strongly to the east to the
Loangwa river, on the morning of the 10th, and in the afternoon an excessively heavy thunder-storm wetted us all to the
skin before any shelter could be made. Two of our men
wandered, and other two remained behind lost, as our track
was washed out by the rains. The country is a succession of
enormous waves, all covered with jungle, and no traces of
paths; we were in a hollow, and our firing was not heard till
this morning, when we ascended a height and were answered.
I am thankful that no one was lost, for a man might wander a
long time before reaching a village. Simon gave me a little




DANGER UNSEEN.                   503
more of his meal this morning, and went without himself: I
took my belt up three holes to relieve hunger. We got some
wretched wild fruit like that called'jambos' in India, and at
midday reached the village of Chafunga. Famine here too, but
some men had killed an elephant and came to sell the dried
meat: it was high, and so were their prices; but we are obliged
to give our best to escape from this craving hunger."
Sitting down one morning near a tree Dr. Livingstone's
head was just one yard off a good-sized cobra, coiled up in the
sprouts at its root, but it was benumbed with cold: a very pretty
little puff-adder lay in the path, also benumbed; it is seldom
that any harm is done by these reptiles in Africa, although it is
different in India. They bought up all the food to be had,
but it did not suffice for the marches they expected to make before getting to the Zambesi, where food was said to be abundant, and they were therefore again obliged to travel on Sunday.
"' But although," says the doctor, "we had prayers before starting, I always feel that I am not doing right: it lessens the
sense of obligation in the minds of my companions; but I have
no choice."  They went along a rivulet till it ended in a small
lake, Mapampa or Chimbwe, about five miles long, and one and
a half broad, of which we find this note:
"We had to cross the Chimbwe at its eastern end, where it
is fully a mile wide. The guide refused to show another and
narrower ford up the stream, which emptied into it from the
east; and I, being the first to cross, neglected to give orders
about the poor little dog, Chitane. The water was waist deep,
the bottom soft peaty stuff with deep holes in it, and the
northern side infested by leeches. The boys were, like myself,
all too much engaged with preserving their balance to think
of the spirited little beast, and he must have swam till he sunk.
He was so useful in keeping all the country curs off our huts;
none dare to approach and steal, and he never stole himself.
He shared the staring of the people with his master; then in
the march he took charge of the whole party, running to the
front, and again to the rear, to see that all was right. He was
becoming yellowish-red in color; and, poor thing, perished in
what the boys all call Chitane's water."
During the delays caused by the severe rains the doctor




504                A DREADFUL LOSS.
worked out the longitude of the mountain station said to be
Mpini, but he thought it better to name it Chitane's, as he
could not get the name from his maundering guide, who probably did not know it. Lat. 11~9' 21" S.; long. 320 1' 30" E.
Altitude above sea (barometer)    5353 feet.
Altitude above sea (boiling point)  5385 feet.
Diff. 32 feet.
Destitution continued; there was nothing but famine and
famine prices, the people living on mushrooms and leaves. Of
these mushrooms it is interesting to know that there are a numlber of sorts, out of which the people choose five or six, rejecting
the others. One species becomes as large as the crown of a
man's hat; it is pure white, with a blush of brown in the
middle of the crown, and is very good roasted; it is named
Motenta; another, Mofeta; 3d, Bosefwe; 4th, Nakabausa; 5th,
Chisimbe, lobulated, green outside, and pink and fleshy inside.
About this time an incident occurred which was received by
Dr. Livingstone as perhaps the greatest misfortune he had ever
experienced. His own version of it is as follows:
"A guide refused, so we marched without one. The two
Waiyau, who joined us at Kande's village, now  deserted.
They had been very faithful all the way, and took our part
in every case. Knowing the language well, they were extremely useful, and no one thought that they would desert,
for they were free men-their masters had been killed by the
Mazitu-and this circumstance, and their uniform good conduct,
made us trust them more than we should have done any others
who had been slaves. But they left us in the forest, and heavy
rain came on, which obliterated every vestige of their footsteps.
To make the loss the more galling, they took what we could
least spare-the medicine-box, which they would only throw
away as soon as they came to examine their booty. One of
these deserters exchanged his load that morning with a boy
called Baraka, who had charge of the medicine-box, because he
was so careful. This was done because with the medicine-chest
were packed five large cloths and all Baraka's clothing and
beads, of which he was very careful. The Waiyau also offered




DISTRESSING HUNGER.                  505
to carry this burden a stage to help Baraka, while he gave his
own load, in which there was no cloth, in exchange. The
forest was so dense and high there was no chance of getting a
glimpse of the fugitives, who took all the dishes, a large box of
powder, the flour we had purchased dearly to help us as far as
the Zambesi, the tools, two guns, and a cartridge-pouch; but
the medicine-chest was the sorest loss of all! I felt as if I had
now received the sentence of death, like poor Bishop Mackenzie."
He was prepared for losses and all manner of discouragements; but such a loss as this cast a shadow over his ordinarily
buoyant soul. And yet he did not murmur.  " Everything of
this kind," says he, "happens by the permission of one who
watches over us with most tender care; and this may turn out
for the best, by taking away a source of suspicion among more
superstitious charm-dreading people farther north.  I meant it
as a source of benefit to my party and other heathen."
All their efforts to find the Waiyau were in vain. We cannot appreciate the feelings of one so far away from friends, so
entirely dependent on himself, under God, in an hour of such
misfortune. Yet he found it in his heart to make many excuses for the men who had robbed him so seriously.  The loss
must be endured.
The want of food and continuous rains greatly hindered
them, but they were now drawing near the Zambesi; the
streams which they crossed were all flowing northwest toward
that great river, and all the reports were, that beyond it, in the
immediate territory of the paramount chief, there was plenty of
food. This hope renewed their flagging energies. Livingstone
was not thinking of nice dishes, but real, biting hunger was
torturing him. This was partly relieved at Moaba, on the
banks of the Movushi.  But the cloth -which was their main
dependence as currency-was of little value here, as indeed it
was in all the upland country, where the bark cloth is so abundant. But fortunately there was a demand for beads, and fortunately, too, they had some of these. It may be interesting
for the reader to know something about this important item of
currency all through Africa.
"With a few exceptions they are all manufactured in Yenice.
The greatest care must be exercised, or the traveller-ignorant
26




506              CURRENCY OF AFRICA.
of the prevailing fashion in the country he is about to explore
-finds himself with an accumulation of beads of no more value
than tokens would be if tendered in this country for coin of the
realm. The Waiyau prefer exceedingly small beads, the size
of mustard seed, and of various colors, but they must be opaque:
amongst them dull white chalk varieties, called'Catchokolo,'
are valuable, besides black and pink, named, respectively,'Bububu' and'Sekundereche' = the'dregs of Pombe.' One
red bead, of various sizes, which has a white centre, is always
valuable in every part of Africa. It is called'Samisami' by
the Suahele,'Chitakaraka' by the Waiyau,'Mangazi''blood' by the Nyassa, and was found popular even amongst the
Manyuenia, under the name of' Masokantussi' =' bird's eyes.'
Whilst speaking of this distant tribe, it is interesting to observe
that one peculiar long bead, recognized as common in the Manyuema land, is only sent to the west coast of Africa, and never
to the east. On Chuma pointing to it as a sort found at the
extreme limit explored by Livingstone, it was at once seen that
he must have touched that part of Africa which begins to be
within the reach of the traders in the Portuguese settlements.'Machua Kanga' ='guinea fowl's eyes,' is another popular
variety; and the'Moiompio' ='new heart,' a large pale blue
bead, is a favorite amongst the Wabisa; but by far the most
valuable of all is a small white oblong bead, which, when
strung, looks like the joints of the cane root, from which it
takes its name,'Salani' ='cane.' Susi says that one pound
weight of these beads would buy a tusk of ivory, at the south
end of Tanganyika, so big that a strong man could not carry
it more than two hours.'
At last the banks of the Zambesi were reached, and the
weary, hungry party took lodging in a temporary deserted village. This was January 26th. They were detained the 27th
by rains; that day Dr. Livingstone wrote in his journal:
" In changing my dress this morning I was frightened at my
own emaciation."




CHAPTER XXIV.
FROM  LAKE TO LAKE.
Chitapanga's Stockade —An Offering Required-Audience with the ChiefCeremony of Introduction-Chitapanga as he was-Some Trouble-Lying
Interpreters-Arab Traders-Letters Sent Home-Quits Chitapanga's-The
Chief's Parting Oath-Appearance of Country-Troublesome Customs-Suspicion of the Chiefs-A Familiar Trick-Eagerness for Trade-Moamba at
HIome-Chief and Judge-The Moemba-The Hopo-Bows and ArrowsIllness —Kasonso's Reception-Assaulted by Ants-Cotton-Lake LiembaPalm  Oil-The Balungu —Severe Illness-Arabs-Chitimba's Village-A
Long Delay-Nsama-The Baulungu-Industries-Cupping-Charms-Dull
Life —Slave-Trade-Little Things-A Large Spider-At Hara-Reception at
Nsama's-A Bride in Style —"Tipo Tipo — " Kumba Kumba" —Itcawc —
Desertion-Slavery Question-Different Motives-Arabs on the March-Arab
Traders-A Fantastic Party-Potency of Sneers in Africa-Delays-Lake
Moero at Last.
ON the 31st of January our traveller led his party across the
Lopiri, the rivulet which waters the stockade of Chitapanga.
This was quite a formidable-looking structure. Besides a triple
stockade, the village is defended by a deep, broad ditch, and
hedge of thorny shrub.
The messengers from the great chief soon approached to inquire
if the traveller desired an audience, and instructing him that
their custom  required every one to take something in his hand
the first time he came before so great a man as Chitapanga.
Being tired from marching, Livingstone deferred his visit to the
chief until evening. At 5 p. M. he sent notice of his coming.
Passing through the inner stockade and then on to an enormous
hut, he entered the presence of the chief.  His Majesty was
seated on the three-legged stool, which is one of the peculiar
institutions of the country.  Near him were three drummers,
beating furiously, and ten or more men with odd-looking rattles
in their hands, with which they kept time to the drums, while
seated and standing all about in the background were hundreds
of eager subjects who gazed with deepest interest on the reception.
507




508            RECEPTION AT CHITAPANGA.
A. noticeable feature of the ceremony was the regular approaching and receding of the rattlers, who seemed to give to their chief
some special reverence by advancing before him and holding
their toy-looking instruments quite near the ground, while they
kept up still with the drummers.
Chitapanga was a strongly-built burly-looking fellow, with a
jolly, laughing face. Livingstone was seated on a huge tusk,
and the talk began. He found little difficulty in interesting
the chief in those things which he had to tell, and was treated
with a respect and cordiality which impressed him very favorably with him. When they had got a little acquainted, the
chief walked with his visitor toward a group of cows and with
a generous air pointed out one and said, "That is yours."
Various circumstances conspired to protract the stay of Livingstone twenty days at this village. Though quite favorably
impressed with Chitapanga, the necessity of holding all his interviews through others gave rise to serious annoyances. He was
particularly troubled and vexed, after killing the cow which
had been given him, by the chief's demanding a blanket for it.
This was more annoying because he had none except such as
belonged to the men who were with him. This demand was
pressed, however, and it at length turned out that one of the
Nassick lads, who had acted as interpreter at their interviews,
had not stated the conversation correctly. The chief had given
the cow, expecting a blanket, but the boy had said to Livingstone, " he says you may give him any little thing you please."
This presumptuous interference of interpreters is one of the most
serious annoyances of travelling in any country; particularly is
it so in Africa: not only Dr. Livingstone but many travellers
there have been greatly troubled by it.
At this village Livingstone met a small party of black Arab
slave-traders from Bagamoio, on the coast near Zanzibar, by
whom he was able to send a packet of letters, which reached
England safely and greatly relieved the public mind concerning
the great traveller, who had been reported dead by Musa after
he had so heartlessly deserted him near Nyassa. These Arab
traders had come into the country by a much nearer route: a
route too which was full of villages and people who have plenty
of goats. By these men Dr. Livingstone ordered another supply




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THE PARTING OATH.                 511
of cloth and beads and a small quantity of coffee and sugar,
candles, preserved meats, etc., with some medicines, to be sent
to Ujiji.
Little else occurred during the stay with Chitapanga worthy
of special mention. The frequent returns of illness were nothing
uncommon now. It was sad indeed to be so great a sufferer,
and deprived of the relief which he could have found in his
medicine box. We cannot imagine a more painful experience
than the consciousness of failing health in a far away heathen
land without a single remedy at hand.
At length, after repeated misunderstandings and compromises
with Chitapanga, all growing out of the unpardonable interference of the boys, who presumed to interpret the conversation
according to their ideas of what it was best should be said, Dr.
Livingstone prepared to leave on the 20th of February, 1867.
He says:
"February 20, 1867. —I told the chief before starting that my
heart was sore because he was not sending me away so cordially
as I liked. He at once ordered men to start with us, and gave
me a brass knife with ivory sheath, which he had long worn as
a memorial. He explained that we ought to go north as, if we
made easting, we should ultimately be obliged to turn west, and
all our cloth would be expended ere we reached the Lake Tanganyika; he took a piece of clay off the ground and rubbed it
on his tongue as an oath that what he said was true, and came
along with us to see that all was right; and so we parted."
His route lay still almost due north through the countries of
the Babema and the Balungu. The whole country, he says, can
be no better described than as one vast forest. " Rocks abound
of the same domolite kind as on the ridge farther south, between
the Loangwa and Zambesi, covered, like them, with lichens,
orchids, euphorbias, and upland vegetation, hard-leaved acacias,
rhododendrons, masukos. The gum-copal tree, when perforated
by a grub, exudes from branches no thicker than one's arm,
masses of soft, gluey-looking gum, brownish yellow, and light
gray, as much as would fill a soup-plate. It seems to yield this
gum only in the rainy season, and now all the trees are full of
sap and gum."
This march was inaugurated in unmistakable fashion. The




512              THE REAL DIFFICULTY.
night of February 20th was overcast with black clouds, and
heavy thunder rolled about them and drenching rain beat
through the huts and flooded the roads. Here, as elsewhere in
Africa, there are customs which greatly hinder and annoy the
traveller. The people are suspicious and ignorant, and it is
necessary, particularly when one is almost entirely unprotected,
as Dr. Livingstone now was, to be exceedingly careful. The
delays attending the formal civilities which every petty chief
either demands shall be shown him or desires to show the
stranger are pleasant enough in their way, but are exceedingly
vexatious when a man is sick and weary and anxiously pressing
for a certain place. It was almost impossible to impress on the
chiefs that no selfish purposes were to be subserved by the journey
through their country. This was really the great difficulty: they
generally held to the conviction that a man who had been at
the trouble of penetrating their country must expect some great
gains, and, naturally enough, thought they ought to be benefited
also by his presence. It is indeed " almost too ridiculous to believe," but so it was. When Livingstone assured the "great
chief," Chitapanga, that the public benefit only was sought by
his journey, that distinguished gentleman, with the most knowing laugh, pulled down the underlid of the right eye, after the
most approved gesture of our school-boys when they say, " Do
you see anything green?"  It was just so with his neighbors.
Moamba, whose village was on the left bank of the Merenge,
had the same difficulty. He was generous and good-humored;
was, like Chitapanga, very much interested in the books and
instruments that were shown him, and quite curious about the
worship of the Englishman, but could hardly be reconciled to
his declining to buy ivory or slaves. "He was very anxious,"
says Livingstone, "to know why we were going to Tanganyika;
for what we came; what we should buy there; and if I had any
relations there. He then showed me some fine large tusks, eight
feet six in length.'What do you wish to buy, if not slaves or
ivory?' I replied, that the only thing I had seen worth buying
was a fine fat chief like him, as a specimen, and a woman
feeding him, as he had, with beer. He was tickled at this; and
said that when we reached our country I must put fine clothes
on him."




REMARKABLE SALUTATION'.              513
The chiefs in this section were found to be much respected by
their subjects, though they do not enforce their obedience as
positively perhaps as would accord with our ideas of government. Livingstone witnessed a specimen of litigation in which
the parties argued their case before Moamba. His Majesty
occupied the post of honor with great gravity. One old man
argued his case an hour, and was heard with great patience.
After they had ended their speeches, the chief delivered his decision in five minutes. There were features of this proceeding
which would doubtless disturb the solemnity of an American
tribunal. For instance, when our attorney would say, " may it
please your honor," the Babema orator turns his back on the
judge and stretching himself on the ground claps his hands
loudly. This was indeed a common mode of salutation, reminding the reader perhaps of that noticed among the Batoka. The
Mobemba displayed much more independence than the more
southern tribes. They all go equipped with their bows and
arrows and are decidedly warlike. And the trophies from the
Mazitu which are frequently seen hanging about their villages
indicate very clearly that those bold depredators do not find such
easy work as in other regions.
They are industrious too, and are well supplied with the comforts of African life. Much tobacco was noticed growing about
the villages, and great quantities of splendid copper wire is
manufactured. All sorts of animals abound in their country,
but they were exceedingly wild, as they are generally where
bows and arrows are in common use. Here too, besides this
effectual weapon, the hopo wages war on the game, and everything is taught the fear of man.
After parting with Moamba, Livingstone continued his northward journey, and ascended the Losauswa ridge, which is probably the watershed between the streams flowing southward to
the Zambesi and those flowing north towards Tanganyika;
and, without special incident, crossed a country watered by
various rivers and dotted with stockaded villages, where numerous
herds of goats were carefully attended by boys, and the usual
gardens and patches were to be seen everywhere, almost lost in
the prevailing forest. His health was sadly affected by the toil
and unrelished diet. On the 12th of March he reached the vil



514                ON GOD'S GROUND.
lage of Chiwe, among the Balungu. Speaking of his condition,
he says: " I have been ill of fever ever since we left Moamba's;
every step I take jars in the chest, and I am very weak; I can
scarcely keep up the march, though formerly I was always first,
and had to hold in my pace not to leave the people altogether.
I have a constant singing in the ears, and can scarcely hear the
loud tick of the chronometers. The appetite is good, but we
have no proper food, chiefly maere meal or beans, or mapemba
or ground-nuts, rarely a fowl."
This village, like them  all, was surrounded by a strong
stockade, and on the banks of a stream. The chiefs were
generally anxious that he should come into their villages and
occupy a hut; but this was found exceedingly unpleasant;
within the stockade the people seemed to think the stranger on
their ground, and considered themselves at liberty to be rather
over-familiar; they would crowd about the door of his hut and
it was absolutely impossible to have a moment of quiet or privacy.
Besides this impudence, these huts were frequently the abode of
certain detestable creatures who never vacate for a visitor, but
seize the occasion of his presence for a regular carnival. Livingstone had a natural weakness against being eaten by bugs, and
generally insisted on erecting his own hut or pitching his tent
on "God's ground" outside. There he was considered as entirely independent, and escaped the prying eyes of the people
and the midnight depredations of the bugs.
Among the prominent peculiarities by which the Balungu are
distinguished were three or four little knobs on the temples, with
which they sought to improve on nature, while the lobes of
their ears are distended by a piece of wood ornamented with
beads, and bands of beads were stretched across the forehead
and hold up the hair. Livingstone did not pause long to enjoy
the hospitality or study the distinctions of these tribes; he was
sick, and pressed on for the village of Kasonso and the Lake
Liemba. It was evident that he was on the watershed, but the
streams seemed to be running every way, and the natives were
utterly ignorant of the geography of the country. In other
times, when the blood was bounding freely through his veins,
he would have been charmed by the beauty of the numerous
valleys which he crossed in rapid succession, with their innumer



A MIDNIGHT ENCOUNTER.                515
able streams, where splendid trees were waving their boughs
above the elegant green sward; but he was parched with fever
and could only drag himself along. It is worth remembering,
however, that he noticed that nearly all the valleys he crossed
inclined to the Lofu, which receives their tributaries for the
lake.
On the 20th of March he entered the village of Kasonso,
situated in a lovely valley at the confluence of two streams.
This chief received him very cordially, and stood a long while
shaking his hand. Kasonso gave him a grand reception, but
another experience which made perhaps a more lasting reception
awaited him in the hut where he sought repose. The reader
has not forgotten the ants which assaulted the doctor in Angola:
he may imagine the consternation when about midnight he was
aroused by the unconscionable ravages of their counterparts
here in the town of IKasonso. The sufferer, who ought to be
competent to tell the story, declares it impossible to describe the
attack. He wakened covered with them; his hair was full of
them; one by one they cut into the flesh, and the more they
were disturbed the more vicious became their biting; he fled
from the hut, but in vain: they were everywhere, they had him
from head to foot, and were resolved on taking their own time.
Near the lake there was found large cotton-bushes of the
South American kind. The people were clothed in skins of
goats and wild animals, but the patterns were more scant, if
possible, than in other sections; the kilts of the women were
especially diminutive. At least one object of his desire was now
about attained: "On the morning of the 1st of April," says
he, "CC we went along a low ridge of hills at its lowest part, and
soon after passing the summit the blue water loomed through
the trees. I was detained, but soon heard the boys firing their
muskets on reaching the edge of the ridge, which allowed an
undisturbed view."
At last he had reached the southeastern end of Liemba, or
Tanganyika. They had still to descend two thousand feet before
reaching the level of the lake. It seemed to be about eighteen or
twenty miles broad, and we could see about thirty miles up to
the north. Four considerable rivers fow into the space before
us. The nearly perpendicular ridge of about two thousand feet




516                  LAKE LIEMBA.
extends with breaks all around, and there, embosomed in treecovered rocks, reposes the lake peacefully in the huge cup-shaped
cavity.
"I never saw," continues the great traveller, who had looked
on so many lovely scenes, " anything so still and peaceful as it
lies all the morning. About noon a gentle breeze springs up,
and causes the waves to assume a bluish tinge. Several rocky
islands rise in the eastern end, which are inhabited by fishermen, who capture abundance of fine large fish, of which they
enumerate about twenty-four species. In the north it seems to
narrow into a gateway, but the people are miserably deficient
in geographical knowledge, and can tell us nothing about it.
They suspect us, and we cannot get inlbrmation, or indeed much
of anything else. I feel ideply thankful at having got so far.
I am excessively weak-cannot walk without tottering, and
have constant singing in the head, but the Highest will lead me
farther."  And after being two weeks by it he writes again:
" This lake still appears as one of surpassing loveliness. Its
peacefulness is remarkable, though at times it is said to be lashed
up by storms. It lies'in a deep basin whose sides are nearly
perpendicular, but covered well with trees; the rocks which
appear are bright red argillaceous schist; the trees at present
all green: down some of these rocks come beautiful cascades,
and buffaloes, elephants, and antelopes wander and graze on the
more level spots, while lions roar by night. The level place
below is not two miles from the perpendicular."
Sick as he was he could not be satisfied with only the general
knowledge, as we see by the following, extracted also from his
"Last Journal:" "Latitude of the spot we touched at-,, 2d
April, 1867-Lat. 8~ 46' 54"' S., long. 31' 57"; but I only
worked out (and my head is out of order) one set of observations.
Height above level of the sea over two thousand eight hundred
feet, by boiling-point thermometers and barometer."
It may be noticed that the figures of Dr. Livingstone differ
with those of Speke, who made this lake eighteen hundred feet
above the level of the sea. The doctor explained to Mr. Stanley
that he was satisfied that Speke wrote eighteen hundred only
by mistake through the habit of putting A. D. 1800. He made
his examination, knowing Speke's observation, and found the




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THE LAKE PEOPLE.                  519
real height above the sea to be, as he puts it, two thousand eight
hundred feet.
The little village at which he first touched the lake was surrounded by real west coast palm-oil trees, requiring two men
to carry a bunch of ripe fruit. Notwithstanding great weakness,
the unyielding man spent the time as diligently as possible examining the region. The people called themselves Balungu, but
they had not the bold independent bearing of those of that
name among whom Livingstone had so lately passed. And
their numbers had been sadly reduced by the Mazitu, who are
constantly carrying off their women and children. They seem
themselves, too, to have caught the slaving spirit, and to have
come to admire their destroyers. That is surely the deepest degradation, the most absolute' and irredeemable slavery, out of
which a man gazes with admiration on the power which oppresses him, and wears with pride the chain which binds him.
God save a fallen people from the grace of a contentment which
dispenses with hope; from a submission which kisses the yoke,
while it forgets the galling. "As a people," says Livingstone,
"they are all excessively polite. The clapping of hands on
meeting is something excessive, and then the string of salutations that accompany it would please the most fastidious Frenchman. It implies real politeness, for in marching with them
they always remove branches out of the path, and indicate
stones or stumps in it carefully to a stranger, yet we cannot prevail on them to lend carriers to examine the lake, or to sell
goats, of which, however, they have very few, and all on one
island."
It is mentioned that weeds were observed floating northwards
on the lake. Mention is also made of various rivers, flowing
northeast and northwest, entering the southern part of the
lake. The Lonzua, the Kowe, the Kapala, the Luaze, and the
IKalambwe, flow into it near the east end, and the Lovu, or
Lofubu, or Lofu, from the southwest. The doctor reasoned
that there must be an exit somewhere for such volumes of water.
We need not follow the curious traveller up and down the
steep mountain sides as he wandered about the shores of the
lake; his journal for these days supplies little more than the
names of the villages which he passed.




520                THE SKY DARKENS.
He did not attempt to explore this region very extensively at
this time, knowing that he would, if spared to reach Ujiji, be
again on its shores, and indeed on its beautiful surface. He
was suffering-very severely all the time; twice he was seized
with most distressing fits of insensibility, in which he was entirely helpless. On one of these occasions he says: "I found
myself floundering outside my hut and unable to get in; I tried
to lift myself from my back by laying hold of two posts at the
entrance, but when I got nearly upright I let them go, and fell
back heavily on my head on a box. The boys had seen the
wretched state I was in, and hung a blanket at the entrance of
the hut, that no stranger might see my helplessness; some hours
elapsed before I could recognize where I was."
On the 20th of May, 1867, we find him  at Chitimba's
village, about thirty miles southwest from the southeastern
shore of the lake, with his heart set on reaching Lake Moero.
He had come to this village particularly because it was at
present the head-quarters of a large party of Arabs, who he had
heard were in a dispute with the powerful chief ruling the wide
expanse of country which must be crossed between the Lakes
Liemba and Moero. The news of this difficulty had weighed
considerably to check his advances down the Liemba, for it
would certainly have been exceedingly unsafe for him to have
attempted a passage through the territory of Nsama under the
circumstances. The rumor was, that Nsama's son was killing
all the Arabs he could find, in revenge for some wrong that
had been done to his father's people by them.
The Arabs were found occupying an important portion of the
stockaded village, and when Dr. Livingstone arrived he was
politely shown to a large shed where they were in the habit of
meeting. The principal man of the party was Hamees Wodim
Tagh. He was accompanied by Sydebin Allebin Mansure.
They were connected with one of the most influential native
mercantile houses in Zanzibar.
When the doctor had explained whence he had come he showed
the letter which had been furnished him by the sultan at Zanzibar. He was treated with great kindness. Hamees presented a
goat and a quantity of flour, and such other commodities as he
possessed, but it was next to impossible to get at the truth about




GOOD PICKING.                   521
the difficulty. There were various versions of the matter, but
one thing was certain: there had been a disturbance at the village of Tsama, between the people of that chief and the Arabs,
and several on each side had been killed, and all was now confusion. Nsama had fled from his village, leaving the Arabs inll
possession, and they had been plundering and burning all the surrounding villages, while Chitimba had sent for the party quartered here to come to him. An hour or two after Livingstone
and his party arrived at the village a body of men arrived from
Kasonso, with the intention of proceeding into the country of
Nsamia, if possible to take that chief prisoner on the charge
that he "had broken the public law by attacking people who
brought merchandise into the country," a remark which hints
of something that seems like international law among these
barbarous tribes.
It was clear that there could be nothing else but a long delay
now. Four weary months he lay here waiting on the tedious
negotiations between these two parties, which was a most
remarkable succession of delays, almost every day seeming to
promise an immediate settlement. But the great difficulty'was
the want of faith in Nsama, who it was believed talked peaceably only tb gain time and get advantage of his adversaries.
He had been the Napoleon of the country, and had held his
neighbor chieftains in fear. They now seemed glad to take advantage of his overthrow, or discomfiture, to ravage his borders,
and the Arabs too were not over anxious to give up immediately such good picking as his land afforded. So it is not improbable that while Nsama's warlike propensities were in the
way of peace, the plundering propensities of his enemies aided
in keeping up the disturbance. Meantime Dr. Livingstone was
satisfied that it was decidedly best for him to wait, rather than
either give up seeing Lake Moero, or run such serious risk as it
must have been to attempt to go there under the circumstances.
The village of Chitimba is one of a number of prominent
villages, whose chiefs divide the dominion of the district known
among the Arabs as Urungu, this being the name given to
the region surrounding Lake Liemba, or the foot of Lake
Tanganyika. The whole region is mountainous, and many
exceedingly tortuous rivers water its beautiful valley, most




522                 THE BAULUNGU.
of them  finding their way ultimately into the lake. The
calculations of Dr. Livingstone fixed the village in long. 30~
19' E., lat. 8~ 57' 55t" S. Of the people the doctor says:
"The Baulungu men are in general tall and well formed;
they use bows over six feet in length, and but little bent. The
facial angle is as good in most cases as in Europeans, and they
have certainly as little of the' lark-heel' as the whites. One
or two of the under front teeth are generally knocked out in
women, and also in men.
" Close observation of them makes me believe them to be extremely polite. The mode of salutation among relatives is to
place the hands round each other's chests kneeling; they then
clap their hands close to the ground. Some more abject individuals kiss the soil before a chief; the generality kneel only,
with the fore-arms close to the ground, and the head bowed
down to them, saying,'O Ajadla chiusa, Mari a bwino.' The
Usanga say,'Aje senga.' The clapping of hands to superiors,
and even equals, is in some villages a perpetually recurring
sound. Aged persons are usually saluted. How this extreme
deference to each other could have arisen, I cannot conceive; it
does not seem to be fear of each other that elicits it. Even the
chiefs inspire no fear, and those cruel old platitudes about governing savages by fear seem unknown, yet governed they
certainly are, and upon the whole very well.
"The owners of huts lend them willingly to strangers, and
have a great deal of toil in consequence; they have to clean
them after the visitors have withdrawn; then, in addition to
this, to clean themselves, all soiled by the dust left by the lodgers; their bodies and clothes have to be cleansed afterwards;
they add food too in all cases of acquaintanceship, and then we
have to remember the labor of preparing that food. My remaining here enables me to observe that both men and women
are in almost constant employment.  The men are making
mats, or weaving, or spinning; no one could witness their
assiduity in their little affairs and conclude that they were a
lazy people. The only idle time I observe here is in the mornings about seven o'clock, when all come and sit to catch the
first rays of the sun as he comes over our clump of trees, but
even that time is often taken as an opportunity for stringing
beads.




THE CUPPING HORN.                  523
"The people seem to have no family names. A man takes the
name of his mother, or should his father die he may assume
that. Marriage is forbidden to the first, second, and third
degrees: they call first and second cousins brothers and sisters."
Among the customs which approach nearest the arts of civilized life the doctor mentions the cupping of the temples for
sore eyes. Having no such appliances as we consider almost
essential, and untaught as they are in the philosophical principles underlying it, these rude people have been aided by their
remarkable ingenuity in devising the practical counterpart of
our more elegant cups. In their process "a goat's horn is used
with a small hole in the pointed end; the base is applied to the
part from which the blood is to be drawn, and the operator,
with a small piece of chewed India-rubber in his mouth, exhausts the air, and at the proper moment plasters the hole up
with his tongue. When the cupping horn is removed, some
cuts are made with a small knife and it is again applied."  It
may seem a rough appliance, as indeed it is, but it serves the
purpose and is in great repute all through the country. Like
everything else in the country, however, this has its attending
superstition; a mother who thus extracts the blood from her
child may be seen immediately sprinkling those precious drops,
as a charm, over the roof of her hut. Charms were in universal
use, over doors and gateways, everywhere that they could be
thought of.
But, although Livingstone was a man who could find something of interest in almost everything and everybody, the time
hung very heavily on his hands. He lost no opportunity to
seek information about the surrounding country from Arabs
and natives, but they could give but little satisfaction; they
were too ignorant to even notice more than forced itself on
their observation by the difficulties or convenience of travelling.
The intercourse of the Arabs, who were themselves blacks,
was that of equals with the natives; they bought and sold and
married, came and went, formed alliances or made wars, just
like the heathen they were with.  But they were respected
because they brought goods and carried guns. And so far it
was a thing to be glad of, that Livingstone had their protection
under the circumstances; and they were in constant intercourse




524                    TOWN LIFE.
with Zanzibar, and furnished the means of sending out letters;
but they were no society for Dr. Livingstone.
The country, though beautiful, presented few features of
sufficient interest to engage one so long a time. In connection
with the tediousness of this delay, the doctor says:
"There is nothing interesting in a heathen town. All are
busy in preparing food or clothing, mats or baskets, whilst the
women are cleaning or grinding their corn, which involves
much hard labor. They first dry this in the sun, then put it
into a mortar, and afterwards with a flat basket clean off the
husks and the dust, and grind it between two stones; the next
thing is to bring wood and water to cook it. Now and then a
little relief was afforded by some occurrence a little out of the
ordinary.  The weather was quite cool part of the while,
although the hot season, which comes earlier than in the more
southern country by some months, was beginning in May, and
the people frequently set fire to their frail huts by the careless
use of that dangerous agent. On one occasion the chief was
aroused and threatened to burn his own house and all his property because the people stole from it, but he did not proceed so
far: it was probably a way of letting the Arab dependents know
that he was aroused."
The leading feature of the place was the slave-trading, as it
is wherever these Arabs have penetrated.  Of this trade, as
existing here, the doctor says:
" Slaves are sold here in the same open way that the business
is carried on in Zanzibar slave-market.  A  man goes about
calling out the price he wants for the slave, who walks behind
him; if a woman, she is taken into a hut to be examined in a
state of nudity.
"Slavery is a great evil wherever I have seen it. A poor
old woman and child are among the captives. The boy, about
three years old, seems a mother's pet. His feet are sore from
walking in the sun.  HIe was offered for two fathoms, and his
mother for one fathom; he understood it all, and cried bitterly,
clinging to his mother. She had, of course, no power to help
him; they were separated at IKarungu afterwards."
"The above," writes the editor of the "Last Journals," who
was familiar with the country, " is an episode of every-day occur



LITTLE WONDERS.                   525
rence in the wake of the slave-dealer.'Two fathoms,' mentioned as the price of the boy's life-the more valuable of the
two-means four yards of unbleached calico, which is a universal
article of barter throughout the greater part of Africa: the
mother was bought for two yards. The reader must not think
that there are no lower prices; in the famines which succeed the
slave-dealer's raids, boys and girls are at times to be purchased
by the dealer for a few handfuls of maize."
The large animals, which have become familiar objects to the
reader who has followed us along the track of this wonderful
traveller, abounded in the region. But among the more insignificant creatures some curiosities are mentioned.  Indeed it is
one of the pleasant things of our experience, in examining carefully the vast amount of material which has at one time and
another been given to the world by Dr. Livingstone, that we
are led into the obscurities of unconspicuous nature, the little
things, which we might pass over had we a guide less thoughtful and intelligent.  It is in the tiny existences of earth that the
finest touches of Divine wisdom are displayed. Out of inexhaustible resources the Infinite Creator, who sets our sky with
worlds like jewels, affords to fill also the hidden places with
works of marvellous beauty and interest.  Livingstone honored
God by an unwearying curiosity: the birds and flowers, the
earth and rocks, all had attraction for him. But the special
objects mentioned here may hardly seem to justify enthusiasm; however, commonplace as they may seem, his notes serve
to illustrate one important and honorable feature of the character of this great man-the carefulness of his observations.
"A large spider makes a nest inside the huts. It consists of
a piece of pure white paper, an inch and a half broad, stuck flat
on the wall; under this some forty or fifty eggs are placed, and
then a quarter of an inch of thinner paper is put round it,
apparently to fasten the first firmly.  WThen making the paper
the spider moves itself over the surface in wavy lines; she then
sits on it with her eight legs spread over all for three weeks
continuously, catching and eating any insects, as cockroaches,
that come near her nest. After three weeks she leaves it to
hunt for food, but always returns at night: the natives do not
molest it.
27




526                  THE COVENANT.
"A small ant masters the common fly by seizing a wing or
leg, and holding on till the fly is tired out; at first the fly can
move about on the wing without inconvenience, but it is at last
obliged to succumb to an enemy very much smaller than itself.
"A species of Touraco, new to me, has a broad yellow mask
on the upper part of the bill and forehead; the topknot is purple, the wings the same as in other species, but the red is roseate.
The yellow of the mask plates is conspicuous at a distance."
At last, after so long a time, and more lying and plundering
on both sides than we could recount in a volume, affairs were
brought to something like a settlement between Nsama and
Hamees, and Nsama promised to seal the covenant of peace
by giving one of his daughters to Hamees as a wife! The way
was now cleared of the great obstacle, and Livingstone with his
little band set out across the country in company with the
Arabs.
The country is described as quite beautiful. Crossing the
Urangu and the Lofu, which, the reader will remember, had
been crossed nearer their sources before reaching the lake, they
ascended the ridge which forms the water-shed between Lake
Liemba and the Moero. Descending this ridge they were in
Itawa, the dominion of Nsama. This chief was of a different
family from those of Urangu. I(asonso, Chitimba, and Urongwe, were all Urangai, and equal in rank; Nsama was of the
Babemba family.
The party marched first to Hara, a district of Itawa, whose
stockaded village had been destroyed by the Arabs during the
" late unpleasantness " of which we have told you.
They were here on the 5th of September, 1867. "Obedient
to the customs of the country," says the doctor, " we waited at
Hara to see if Nsamna wished us any nearer to himself. He is
very much afraid of the Arabs, and well he may be, for he
was until lately supposed to be invincible. He fell before
twenty muskets, and this has caused a panic throughout the
country."
It was distressing indeed to see so fine a district almost
abandoned by its occupants. The strife had been short, and
only a "little quarrel," as we, who are acquainted with civilized
war, would think; but the people had fled; and there were no




VISITS NSAMA.                  527
reapers for the fields which waved their harvests, like the banner of divine benevolence, which kindly cheers the sorrows that
men bring on themselves by their animosities in Africa and
America alike. The abundance of food was amazing: "three
hundred men, living at free quarters, made no impression on it."
Nlsama had erected a new stockade close by the old one, which
had been burned by Hamidi bin Mohamad, and there he sat in
state to receive the visitor. When he received Dr. Livingstone's
messenger, he returned an invitation to him to come and see
him, but to bring no guns. Accordingly the doctor went on to
his stockade, attended by a large crowd of people. " Before we
came to the inner stockade," says he, "they felt my clothes to
see that no firearms were concealed about my person. When
we reached Nsama, we found a very old man, with a good head
and face and a large abdomen, showing that he was addicted to
pombe: his people have to carry him. I gave him a cloth, and
asked for guides to Moero, which he readily granted, and asked
leave to feel my clothes and hair. I advised him to try and
live at peace, but his people were all so much beyond the control of himself and head men, that at last, after scolding them,
he told me that he would send for me by night, and then we
could converse, but this seems to have gone out of his head.
He sent me a goat, flour, and pombe, and next day we returned
to Hara."
Although Nsama seemed quite pleasant, and, besides manifesting considerable respect for the guns which he had learned had
largely the advantage over his bows and arrows, had made such
positive terms with Hamees, there were no little grounds of
suspicion that he might after all be only seeking to encourage a
confidence on the part of the Arabs, which might enable him to
gain some sudden advantage of them; he had not kept his word
to Hamees, either about promised ivory or the wife, and
Hamees was not trustful at best. It was beginning to be doubtful whether the hope of going on peaceably might not turn out
a false hope.  And Hamees was arranging to go back to
Chitimba to protect his people and property there, when, much
to the gratification of all hands, on the 14th of September, the
promised daughter of Nsama made her appearance, in splendid
style, the most approved fashion of this country, "riding picka



528               A WIFE THROWN IN.
pack on a man's shoulders;" and the doctor goes on to assure us
that this bride to be was, according to the standard of the realm
in which she dwelt, a nice, modest, good-looking young woman,
her hair rubbed all over with nkola, a red pigment, made from
the camwood, and much used as an ornament. She was accompanied by about a dozen young and old female attendants, each
carrying a small basket with some provisions, as cassava,
ground-nuts, &c. The Arabs were all dressed in their finery,
and the slaves, in fantastic dresses, flourished swords, fired guns,
and yelled. WVhen she was brought to Hamees' hut she descended, and with her maids went into the hut. She and her
attendants had all small, neat features. The doctor had been
sitting with Hamees, and now rose up and went away. As the
doctor passed him, he spoke thus to himself: "Hamees Wadim
Tagh! see to what you have brought yourself!! "
In this connection we may add that Nsama's people are reported to have small well-chiselled features, and many are
really handsome, and have nothing of the west coast negro
about them, but they file their teeth to sharp points, and greatly
disfigure their mouths. The only difference between them and
Europeans is the color. Many of the men have very finelyformed heads, and so have the women; and the fashion of wearing the hair sets off their foreheads to advantage. The forehead
is shaved off to the crown, the space narrowing as it goes up;
then the back hair is arranged into knobs of about ten rows.
They are quite intelligent and evince considerable quickness of
perception, and it was not difficult to understand the position
which they had gained among the tribes, when tolerably familiar
with their characters. They are rather apt students of human
nature, and particularly quick to detect the peculiarities of a
man; this was illustrated by their habit of naming those with
whom they came in contact in accordance with the character
displayed: for instance, they called Hamid bin Mohamad "Tipo
Tipo," which means "gather together of wealth," he being the
chief actor in the spoiling of the country; and another who will
figure hereafter as conspicuous in the slaving business was
called "Kumba Kumba," a collector of people. But intelligent
and brave as they might be, they had become thoroughly afraid
of guns.




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ARRIVAL ~.' HA'[]!ES' Br E.








A LESSON IN CHARITY.                529
It was exceedingly trying on many accounts to be obliged to
keep the company of the Arabs, but particularly on account of
the very dilatory movements of their party; but there was nothing else to be done. Nsama could not be depended on, and the
little party of Dr. Livingstone, small as it had become, was less
and less to be trusted. Another of his men had abandoned him
on the borders of Itawa, the very scamp who had been the cause
of his misfortune in being robbed of his medicine-box. He felt
almost alone, and could not fail to appreciate the providence
which had raised him up an escort of the very men whose trade
was most contrary to his views. Possibly the kindness which
was shown him by these dealers in slaves was intended, by the
great Ruler of all, to correct any growing bitterness against the
slave-owner, while he might detest slave-owning. It is, we
know, one of the most lamentable weaknesses of human nature,
that we cannot recognize, as we should, the different educations
of men, or make allowance fully for the differences of judgment.
We are, perhaps, more forward than we should be, to make our
opinions of right the absolute touch-stone of human virtue. It
is thus that we become the persecutors of men when we should
be the advocates of doctrine. It is not to be desired that a man
should surrender his ideas of right, because of other good he
may find in those who differ with him on some great question;
but it is well if he comes to distinguish between honest difference of opinion and personal meanness, and learns to respect a
man though he may hate a sentiment. The question of human
slavery has been prominent among the vital issues of centuries.
In our own country it has been a very serious one. It is to be
lamented that the antagonists in the great controversy have been
so frequently unable to rise above personal bitterness in the discussion. It ought not to be expected of any man to abandon
his convictions of right or privilege at the bar of his neighbor's
judgment; before a common Creator and Judge let every man
stand or fall.
The fact of property in man is now a thing of the past in
our country, and the most zealous supporters of the policy
which has cancelled it, the most ardent advocates of human
equality, ought to reflect whether they do not violate their own
almost deified code when they visit still with their anathemas




530               DIFFERENT MOTIVES.
those who decline to confess themselves sinners above others
because they owned slaves. God grant that Americans may
speedily outgrow all remaining taint of tyranny which shows
itself in hating a man because of his creed, and stand before
the world in fact, as they do in name, a brotherhood on the
matchless basis of unfettered conscience, the keystone of the
structure which shelters them.
When at last the way was open, whatever may have been his
moralizing, Dr. Livingstone was full of joy. He set out
attended by the whole party of Arabs-they with hearts set on
the ivory and slaves ill which they saw their longed-for wealth
and self-indulgence; he to find the solution, if possible, of the
problem which had engaged mankind for so many centuries, to
settle, if possible, questions of vast importance to the continent,
to mark out a path for civilization, to set up the standard of
Christ in the centre of that most needing land. How strangely
the motives of these men contrasted! What was the difference?
Can color or education explain it? Was there not a deeper
difference than can be found in complexion, or made by teachings? Can it be explained except by the religion of Jesus?
The long line went winding away from the village of Nsama,
first northward, crossing several ridges and valleys, fording the
Chisera and the Kamosenga rivers, to the village of Karungu,
where they arrived on the 30th. The journey had been attended with only the usual incidents of walking and waiting,
giving and receiving presents with the people. The people all
along were the subjects of Nsama, though obeying local chiefs;
they had been kind and generous. The scenery varied; there
had been splendid mountain views, lovely glens, and broad
plains, birds, and vast herds of the animals which belong to the
land. The terror of guns, which the people had conceived from
the experience of Nsama, was the principal inconvenience; this,
in some instances, made intercourse with the chiefs almost impossible. An extract, in the traveller's own language, will illustrate, more perfectly than we can explain, the annoyances of the
journey:
"Karungu was very much afraid of us; he kept every
one out of his stockade at first, but during the time the
Arabs sent forward to try and conciliate other chiefs he




TIPO TIPO.                    531
gradually became more friendly. He had little ivory to sell,
and of those who had, Mtete or Mtema seemed inclined to treat
the messengers roughly. Men were also sent to Nsama, asking
him to try and induce Mtema and Chikongo to be friendly and
sell ivory and provisions, but he replied that these chiefs were
not men under him, and if they thought themselves strong
enough to contend against guns he had nothing to say to them.
Other chiefs threatened to run away as soon as they saw the
Arabs approaching. These were assured that we meant to pass
through the country alone, and if they gave us guides to show
us how, we should avoid the villages altogether, and proceed to
the countries where ivory was to be bought; however, the
panic was too great, no one would agree to our overtures, and
at last when we did proceed a chief on the river Choma fulfilled his threat and left us three empty villages. There were
no people to sell, though the granaries were crammed, and it was
impossible to prevent the slaves from stealing.
"When Chikongo heard Tipo Tipo's message about buying
ivory, he said:'And when did Tipo Tipo place ivory in my
country that he comes seeking it?' Yet he sent a tusk and
said,'That is all I have, and he is not to come here."' "Their
hostile actions," writes the doctor, "are caused principally by fear.'If iNsama could not stand before the Malongwana or traders,
how can we face them?' I wished to go on to Moero, but all
declare that our ten guns would put all the villages to flight:
they are terror-struck. First rains of this season on the 5th."
Nearly the whole of October was lost here, while the Arabs
were trying to drive their trades with the chiefs of the neighborhood. There was very little to encourage them to continue
their journey to the Lake Moero, as all the chiefs seemed determined to sell nothing. And it seemed not improbable that
Dr. Livingstone would, after all his waiting, be left to continue
his journey alone. And under ordinary circumstances there is
not much uncertainty whether he would not have gone on much
more rapidly. These Arab traders were themselves quite as
much a curiosity as the natives; they seemed tremendously
religious in their way. They consulted the Koran for everything, and depend on all sorts of conjuring. Their wedding
and funeral occasions were just such as might be seen in any of




532               KORAN DECIDES ALL.
the villages, except that the Koran figured in them.  They
were greatly perplexed by the joy which their fellow-traveller
had in the death of Jesus. They knew of Jesus, but said he
had foretold Mohammed, that he did not die himself, but another
died in his place. It was certainly to be lamented that the
name of religion should find its foremost representatives in the
heart of Africa in such men. Yet so it was. Livingstone was
the first white man who traversed these secluded regions.
The inevitable Koran finally decided that. the party should
move on westward. Accordingly they set out along the broken
country which divides Itawa from Lopere. On the 28th they
crossed the Choma at the village Chifupa, and noticed that it
flowed southwest to join the Chisera, and with that into the
Kalongosi, one of the tributaries, as will be seen, of Lake
M'Ioero. On this march Livingstone noticed two ugly images
in huts built for them; they represented in a poor way the
people of the country, and were used in rain-making, and in
the ceremonies of curing the sick. This, he remarks, was the
nearest approach to idol worship which he had found in the
country. It is a matter of interest that idols are so few in
eastern Africa. They are worshipped more commonly in the
west. But we feel assured that the reader will not feel that too
much time is spent by the way if we present him with a few
pages just as they come from the hand of the man while in the
midst of these far-off scenes:
"We are still going westward," he writes, "and in an open
valley remarkable for the numbers of a small euphorbia,
which we smashed at every step. Crossed a small but strong
rivulet, the Lipande, going southwest to Moero; then, an hour
afterwards, crossed it again, now twenty yards wide and kneedeep. After descending from the tree-covered hill which divides
Lipande from Luao, we crossed the latter to sleep on its western
bank. The hills are granite now, and a range on our left, from
seven hundred to fifteen hundred feet high, goes on all the way
to Moero.
" These valleys along which we travel are beautiful. Green
is the prevailing color; but the clumps of trees assume a great
variety of forms, and often remind one of English park scenery.
The long line of slaves and carriers, brought up by their Arab




SNEERS PREVAIL.                  533
employers, adds life to the scene; they are in three bodies, and
number four hundred and fifty in all. Each party has a guide
with a flag, and when that is planted, all that company stops till
it is lifted, and a drum is beaten, and a kudu's horn sounded.
One party is headed by about a dozen leaders, dressed with fantastic head-gear of feathers and beads, red cloth on the bodies,
and skins cut into strips and twisted: they take their places in
line, the drum  beats, the horn sounds harshly, and all fall in.
These sounds seem to awaken a sort of esprit de corps in those
who have once been slaves. My attendants now jumped up,
and would scarcely allow me time to dress when they heard the
sounds of their childhood, and all day they were among the foremost. One said to me'that his feet were rotten with marching,'
and this though told that they were not called on to race along
like slaves.
"The Africans cannot stand sneers.  When any mishap
occurs in the march (as when a branch tilts a load off a man's
shoulder) all who see it set up a yell of derision; if anything is
accidentally spilled, or if. one is tired and sits down, the same
yell greets him, and all are excited thereby to exert themselves.
They hasten on with their loads, and hurry with the sheds they
build; the masters only bring up the rear, helping any one who
may be sick. The distances travelled were quite as much as the
masters or we could bear. Had frequent halts been made-as,
for instance, a half or a quarter of an hour at the end of every
hour or two-but little distress would have been felt; but five
hours at a stretch is more than man can bear in a hot climate.
The female slaves held on bravely; nearly all carried loads on
their heads: the head, or lady of the party, who is also the wife
of the Arab, was the only exception. She had a fine white
shawl, with ornaments of gold and silver on her head. These
ladies had a jaunty walk, and never gave in on the longest
march; many pounds' weight of fine copper leglets above the
ankles seemed only to help the sway of their walk; as soon as
they arrive at the sleeping-place they begin to cook, and in this
art they show a good deal of expertness, making savory dishes
for their masters out of wild fruits and other not very likely
materials.
"The splendid ranges of hills retire as we advance; the




534                   LAKE MOERO.
soil is very rich. At two villages the people did not want us,
so we went on and encamped near a third, KIabwakwa, where a
son of Mohamad bin Saleh, with a number of Wanyamwesi, lives.
The chief of this part is Muabo, but we did not see him: the
people brought plenty of food for us to buy. The youth's
father is at Casembe's. The country-people were very much
given to falsehood-every place inquired for was near-ivory
abundant-provisions of all sorts cheap and plenty. Our head
men trusted to these statements of this young man rather, and
he led them to desist going farther. Rua country was a month
distant, he said, and but little ivory there. It is but three days
of (we saw it after three days).'No ivory at Casembe's or
here in Buire, or Kabuire.' He was right as to Casembe. Letters, however, came from Hamees, with news of a depressing
nature. Chitimba is dead, and so is Mambwe."
The news of C(hitilmba's death, and that his people were
fighting for the chieftainship, and other matters in an unsettled
state there, was anything but pleasant to the Arabs; the principal results of their trading were stored there; the effect of the
news was to decide Tipo Tipo to return and join Hamees. He
decided to remain in Buire only ten or twenty days, send out
people to buy what ivory they could, and retire.
Dr. Livingstone parted with Tipo Tipo on the 7th November,
in company with a party of his men who were to visit Casembe
for ivory. They passed along a lovely valley formed by the
Kakoma range and another in the distance to the northwest.
This valley was thickly studded over with villages, the common
distance from one to another not being more than one hundred
or two hundred yards. All of these villages were surrounded,
like those of Londa or Lunda, by shade trees.
On the 8th they came to Lake Moero, nestling quietly between
two ranges of mountains, and slept in a fisherman's hut.




CHAPTER XXV.
A MONTHI  WITH CASEMBE.
Moero —Bound for Casembe-Kalongosi-Abundance of Fish-Dr. LacerdaThe Balonda-Enter Casembe's Village-Graciously Received-Mohamad bin
Saleh —Notes from Journal —Zofu, King's Fool-"Casembe," General-His
Character-Customs-Land Claims-Hand-Shaking-Letter to Lord Clarendon-Descriptive Resume —Sickness-Leaves Casembe-Bound for UjijiMohamad bin Saleh his Companion-Hunger-Illness-Last Day of 1867-A
Touching Record.
LEAVING the special observation of Moero for the present,
Livingstone reascended the eastern flanking ridge and turned
southward towards the town of Casembe. There were only
nine persons in the party; yet the people of the villages seemed
to fear them, and frequently closed their gates as they approached.  Almost daily, as they advanced southward, they
met parties of salt traders, and learned that quite a trade is carried on from the salt springs and mud about the lake to Lunda,
and elsewhere. These salt traders in their salutations brought
to mind a custom which will not be new-the rubbing earth on
the arms. The route lay across numberless streams and rivulets; and about half way they crossed the Kalongosi, or, as the
Arabs and Portuguese pronounce it, Karungwesi, about sixty
yards wide, and flowing fast over stones. It is deep enough,
even now when the rainy season is not commenced, to require
canoes. It is said to rise in Kumbi, or Afar, a country to the
southeast of our ford. Fish in great numbers are caught when
ascending to spawn: they are secured by weirs, nets, hooks.
Large strong baskets are placed in the rapids, and filled with
stones: when the water rises, these baskets are standing-places
for the fishermen to angle or throw their nets. Having crossed
the Kalongosi they were now in Lunda, or Londa.
It was noticed that the Kalongosi went north till it met a
large meadow on the shores of Moero, and, turning westwards,
it entered there. The fishermen gave the names of thirty-nine
535




536              MOHAMAD BIN SALEM.
species of fish in the lake; they said that they never cease ascending the Kalongosi, though at times they are more abundant
than at others: they are as follows:
Monde; Mota; Lasa; Kasibe; Molobe; Lopembe; Motoya;
Chipansa; Mpifu; Manda; Mpala; Moombo; Mfeu; Mende;
Seuse; Kadia nkololo; Etiaka; Nkomo; Lifisha; Sambamkaka;
Ntondo; Sampa; Bongwe; Mabanga; Kise; Kuanya; Nkosu;
Pale; Mosungu; Litembwa; Mechebere; Koninchia; Sipa;
Lomembe; Molenga; Mironge; Nfindo; Pende.
But the point, perhaps, of most interest in this march, was
the Chungu, whose broad deep waters were found choked up
with trees and aquatic plants.  Here the distinguished Dr.
Lacerda died; he had penetrated as far as Casembe in his effort
to establish a route from the Portuguese possessions on the east
to Angola.
Dr. Livingstone was now not exactly on familiar ground, but
perhaps not very many days travel from the old path along
which he led his Makololo many years before. The people of
Casembe are Balonda, with whom we became familiar in the
earlier part of the book.
Profiting by the benevolent suggestion of a guide, who had
been picked up at Kifurwa, Dr. Livingstone sent a present to
apprise Casembe of his approach, and waited by the Chungu
until the chief might send one of his counsellors to conduct
them to his town.
They entered on the 21st, and met there one Mohamad bin
Saleh, who has had his residence in the country during the
reign of four of the Casembes. He was a fine portly black
Arab with pure white beard, and by his long residence had
gained considerable influence among the Balonda as also at
Tanganyika.  This man received the doctor most graciously,
and tendered him a hut where he might abide while his own
was being erected.
There the doctor made some notes, which the reader will be
pleased to have in his own language:
"An Arab trader, Mohamad Bogarib, who arrived seven days
before us with an immense number of slaves, presented a meal
of vermicelli, oil, and honey, also cassava meal cooked so as to
resemble a sweetmeat (I had not tasted honey or sugar since we
left Lake Nyassa, in September, 1866): they had coffee too.




THE lUING'S FOOL.                537
"Neither goats, sheep, nor cattle thrive here, so the people are
confined to fowls and fish. Cassava is very extensively cultivated: indeed, so generally is this plant grown, that it is impossible to know which is town and which is country: every hut
has a plantation around it, in which is grown cassava, Holcus
sorghum, maize, beans, nuts.
"Mohamad gives the same account of the River Luapula
and Lake Bemba that Jumbe did, but he adds, that the Chambeze, where we crossed it, is the Luapula before it enters Bemba
or Bangweolo: on coming out of that lake it turns round and
comes away to the north, as Luapula, and, without touching
the Mofwe, goes into Moero; then, emerging thence at the
northwest end it becomes Lualaba, goes into Rua, forms a
lake there, and afteryards goes into another lake beyond
Tanganyika.
" The Lakelet Mofwe fills during the rains and spreads westward, much beyond its banks. Elephants wandering in its
mud flats when covered are annually killed in numbers: if it
were connected with the Lake Moero the flood would run off.
" Many of Casembe's people appear with the ears cropped and
hands lopped off: the present chief has been often guilty of this
barbarity. One man has just come to us without ears or hands:
he tries to excite our pity, making a chirruping noise, by striking his cheeks with the stumps of his hands.
"A dwarf also, one Zofu, with backbone broken, comes about
us: he talks with an air of authority, and is present at all public occurrences: the people seem to bear with him. He is a
stranger from a tribe in the north, and works in his garden
very briskly: his height is three feet nine inches."
Casembe is rather a title than the name of an individual: it
signifies general, and the queer-looking hard-hearted individual
who wore that honor at the time of Dr. Livingstone's visit did
very little credit to the predecessors, among whom may be
classed the splendid-looking chief whose portrait we are able to
lay before the reader. His people seemed to have caught something of his harsh temper; the doctor records that they were the
most savage set that he had seen; without the least justification
they would strike each other most angrily.
Mohamad bin Saleh had a low opinion of his lordship and




538                 A LAND TITLE.
had only been waiting for Livingstone, whom he had heard
was approaching, in order that they might go on together, as
early as convenient for the doctor, to Ujiji.
One quite interesting fact in connection with this district,
which came to the knowledge of Dr. Livingstone, is recorded
with characteristic minuteness, as follows:
"An old man named Perembe is the owner of the land on
which Casembe has built.  They always keep up the traditional ownership. Munongo is a brother of Perembe, and he
owns the country east of the Kalongosi: if any one wished
to cultivate land he would apply to these aboriginal chiefs
for it.
"' Old Perembe is a sensible man: Mohamad thinks him one
hundred and fifty years old. He is always on the side of liberality and fairness; he says that the first Casembe was attracted
to Mofwe by the abundance of fish in it. He has the idea of
all men being derived from a single pair."
Here is another squib which throws light on the customs:
"Set-in rains.  A  number of fine young girls who live
in Casembe's compound came and shook hands in their way,
which is to cross the right over to your left, and clasp them;
then give a few claps with both hands, and repeat the crossed
clasp: they want to tell their children that they have seen me."
But happily for the world, while sitting down in the town
of Casembe, Dr. Livingstone drew up a paper addressed to Lord
Clarendon, which not only furnishes a most valuable resume of
the country along which we have followed him, but embraces
most interesting recital of incidents at Casembe's court, and
notice of Lake Moero. This letter did not reach Lord Clarendon; but finds the light when the friends are both dead, and
we give it in full, at the risk of repetition.
"TOWN OF CASEMBE, 10th December, 1867.
Lat. 90 37' 13" South; long. 28~ East.
"THE RIGHT HONORABLE THE EARL OF CLARENDON:
"MY LORD: —The first opportunity I had of sending a letter
to the coast occurred in February last, when I was at a village
called Molemba (lat. 100 14' S.; long. 310 46' E.), in the country named Lobemba. Lobisa, Lobemba, Ulungu and ItawaLunda are the names by which the districts of an elevated




-     --------                       \\    ------- 
_                                                                     N
CASCA DES OF TILL AEASX







LIEMBA SCENERY.                   541
region between the parallels 11~ and 80 south, and meridians
280-33~ long. east, are known. The altitude of this upland is
from four thousand to six thousand feet above the level of the
sea. It is generally covered with forest, well watered by
numerous rivulets, and comparatively cold. The soil is very
rich, and yields abundantly wherever cultivated. This is the
watershed between the Loangwa, a tributary of the Zambesi,
and several rivers which flow towards the north. Of the latter,
the most remarkable is the Chambeze, for it assists in the formation of three lakes, and changes its name three times in the five
or six hundred miles of its course.
"On leaving Lobemnba we entered Ulungu, and, as we proceeded northwards, perceived by the barometers and the courses
of numerous rivulets, that a decided slope lay in that direction.
A friendly old Ulungu chief, named Kasonso, on hearing that
I wished to visit Lake Lieiba, which lies in his country, gave
his son with a large escort to guide me thither; and on the 2d
April last we reached the brim of the deep cup-like cavity in
which the lake reposes. The descent is two thousand feet, and
still the surface of the water is upwards of two thousand five
hundred feet above the level of the sea. The sides of the hollow are very steep, and sometimes the rocks run the whole two
thousand feet sheer down to the water. Nowhere is there three
miles of level land from the foot of the cliffs to the shore, but
top, sides, and bottom are covered with well-grown wood and
grass, except where the bare rocks protrude. The scenery is
extremely beautiful. The'Aeasy,' a stream of fifteen yards
broad and thigh-deep, came down alongside our precipitous
path, and formed cascades by leaping three hundred feet at a
time. These, with the bright red of the clay schists among the
greenwood-trees, made the dullest of my attendants pause and
remark with wonder.  Antelopes, buffaloes, and elephants
abound on the steep slopes; and hippopotami, crocodiles, and
fish swarm in the water. Gnus are here unknown, and these
animals may live to old age if not beguiled into pitfalls. The
elephants sometimes eat the crops of the natives, and flap their
big ears just outside the village stockades. One got out of our
way on to a comparatively level spot, and then stood and roared
at us. Elsewhere they make clear off at sight of man.




542                ABOUT THE LAKE.
"The first village we came to on the banks of the lake had
a grove of palm-oil and other trees around it. This palm tree
was not the dwarf species seen on Lake Nyassa. A cluster of
the fruit passed the door of my hut which required two men to
carry it. The fruit seemed quite as large as those on the west
coast. Most of the natives live on two islands, where they
cultivate the soil, rear goats, and catch fish. The lake is not
large-from  fifteen to'twenty miles broad, and from thirty to
forty long. It is the receptacle of four considerable streams,
and sends out an arm two miles broad to the N.N.V., it is said
to Tanganyika, and it may be a branch of that lake. One of
the streams, the Lonzua, drives a smooth body of water into
the lake fifty yards broad and ten fathoms deep, bearing on its
surface duck-weed and grassy islands. I could see the mouths
of other streams, but got near enough to measure the Lofu only;
and at a ford fifty miles from the confluence it was one hundred
yards wide and waist-deep in the dry season.
"We remained six weeks on the shores of the lake, trying to
pick up some flesh and strength. A party of Arabs came into
Ulungu after us in search of ivory, and hearing that an Englishman had preceded them, naturally inquired where I was.
But our friends, the Baulungu, suspecting that mischief was
meant, stoutly denied that they had ever seen anything of the
sort; and then became very urgent that I should go on to one
of the inhabited islands for safety. I regret that I suspected
them of intending to make me a prisoner there, which they
could easily have done by removing the canoes; but when the
villagers who deceived the Arabs told me afterwards with an
air of triumph how nicely they had managed, I saw that they
had only been anxious for my safety. On three occasions the
same friendly disposition was shown; and when we went round
the west side of the lake in order to examine the arm or branch
above referred to, the head man at the confluence of the Loftu
protested so strongly against my going-the Arabs had been
fighting, and I might be mistaken for an Arab, and killedthat I felt half-inclined-to believe him.
" Two Arab slaves entered the village the same afternoon in
search of ivory, and confirmed all he had said. We now altered
our course, intending to go south about the district disturbed




PEACE-MAKING.                   545
by the Arabs. When we had gone sixty miles-we heard that
the head-quarters of the Arabs were twenty-two miles farther.
They had found ivory very cheap, and pushed on to the west,
till attacked by a chief named Nsama, whom they beat in his
own stockade. They were now at a loss which way to turn.
On reaching Chitimba's village (latitude 8~ 57' 55" south;
longitude 30~ 20' east), I found them about six hundred in
all; and, on presenting a letter I had from the Sultan of Zanzibar, was immediately supplied with provisions, beads, and
cloth. They approved of my plan of passing to the south of
Nsama's country, but advised waiting till the effects of punishment, which the Baullungu had resolved to inflict on Nsama
for breach of public law, were known. It had always been
understood that whoever brought goods into the country was
to be protected; and two hours after my arrival at Chitimba's,
the son of Kasonso, our guide, marched in with his contingent.
It was anticipated that Nsama might flee; if to the north, he
would leave me a free passage through his country; if to the
south, I might be saved from walking into his hands. But it
turned out that Nsarna was anxious for peace. He had sent
two men with elephants' tusks to begin a negotiation; but
treachery was suspected, and they were shot down. Another
effort was made with ten goats, and repulsed. This was much
to the regret of the head Arabs. It was fortunate for me that
the Arab goods were not all sold, for Lake Moero lay in Nsama's
country, and without peace no ivory could be bought, nor could
I reach the lake. The peace-making between the people and
Arabs was, however, a tedious process, occupying three and a
half months-drinking each other's blood. This, as I saw it
west of this in 1854, is not more horrible than the thirtieth
dilution of deadly night-shade or strychnine is in homceopathy.
I thought that had I been an Arab I could easily swallow
that, but not the next means of cementing the peace —marrying
a black wife. Nsama's daughter was the bride, and she turned
out very pretty. She came riding pickapack on a man's shoulders: this is the most dignified conveyance that chiefs and their
families can command. She had ten maids with her, each
carrying a basket of provisions, and all having the same beautiful features as herself. She was taken by the principal Arab,
28




546                BEAUTIFUL HEADS.
but soon showed that she preferred her father to her husband,
for seeing preparations made to send off to purchase ivory, she
suspected that her father was to be attacked, and made her escape.
I then visited Nsama, and, as he objected to many people coming
near him, took only three of my eight attendants. His people
were very much afraid of fire-arms, and felt all my clothing to
see if I had any concealed on my person. Nsama is an old
man, with head and face like those sculptured-on the Assyrian
monuments. He had been a great conqueror in his time, and
with bows and arrows was invincible. He is said to have destroyed many native traders from Tanganyika, but twenty Arab
guns made him flee from his own stockade, and caused a great
sensation in the country. He was much taken with my hair
and woollen clothing; but his people, heedless of his scolding, so
pressed upon us that we could not converse, and, after promising to send for me to talk during the night, our interview
ended. He promised guides to Moero, and sent us more provisions than we could carry; but showed so much distrust that,
after all, we went without his assistance.
"Nsama's people are particularly handsome. Many of the
men have as beautiful heads as one could find in an assembly
of Europeans. All have very fine forms, with small hands and
feet. None of the west coast ugliness, from which most of our
ideas of the negroes are derived, is here to be seen. No prognathous jaws nor lark-heels offended the sight. My observations deepened the impression first obtained from the remarks
of Winwood Reade, that the typical negro is seen in the ancient
Egyptian, and not in the ungainly forms which grow up in the
unhealthy swamps of the west coast. Indeed it is probable
that this upland forest region is the true home of the negro.
The women excited the admiration of the Arabs. They have
fine, small,' well-formed features: their great defect is one of
fashion, which does not extend to the next tribe; they file their
teeth to points, the hussies, and that makes their smile like that
of the crocodile.
"Nsama's country is called Itawa, and his principal town is
in latitude 80 55" south, and longitude 29~ 21' east. From
the large population he had under him, Itawa is in many parts
well cleared of trees for cultivation, and it is lower than Ulungu,




GENTLEMEN SLAVERS.                  547
being generally about three thousand feet above the sea. Long
lines of tree-covered hills, raised some six or seven hundred
feet above these valleys of denudation, prevent the scenery from
being monotonous. Large game is abundant. Elephants, buffaloes, and zebras grazed in large numbers on the long sloping
banks of a river called Chisera, a mile and a half broad. In
going north we crossed this river, or rather marsh, which is full
of papyrus plants and reeds. Our ford was an elephant's path;
and the roots of the papyrus, though a carpet to these animals,
were sharp and sore to feet usually protected by shoes, and
often made us shrink and flounder into holes chest-deep. The
Chisera forms a larger marsh west of this, and it gives off its
waters to the KalongQsi, a feeder of Lake Moero.
"The Arabs sent out men in all directions to purchase ivory;
but their victory over Nsama had created a panic among the
tribes which no verbal assurances could allay. If Nsama had
been routed by twenty Arab guns no one could stand before
them but Casembe; and Casernbe had issued strict orders to his
people not to allow the Arabs who fought Nsama to enter his
country. They did not attempt to force their way, but after
sending friendly messages and presents to different chiefs, when
these were not cordially received, turned off in some other direction, and at last, despairing of more ivory, turned homewards.
From first to last they were extremely kind to me, and showed
all due respect to the sultan's letter. I am glad that I was
witness to their mode of trading in ivory and slaves. It formed
a complete contrast to the atrocious dealings of the Kilwa traders,
who are supposed to be, but ari' not, the subjects of the same
sultan. If one wished to depict the slave-trade in its most attractive, or rather least objectionable, form, he would accompany
these gentlemen subjects of the Sultan of Zanzibar. If he
would describe the land traffic in its most disgusting phases,
he would follow the Kilwa traders along the road to Nyassa, or
the Portuguese half-castes from Tette to the river Shire.
"Keeping to the north of Nsama altogether, and moving
westwards, our small party reached the north end of Moero on
the 8th of November last. There the lake is a goodly piece
of water twelve or more miles broad, and flanked on'the east
and west by ranges of lofty tree-covered mountains. The range




548                  LAKE MOERO.
on the west is the highest, and is part of the country called
Rua-Moero; it gives off a river at its northwest end called
Lualaba, and receives the river Kalongosi (pronounced by the
Arabs Karungwesi) on the east near its middle, and the rivers
Luapula and Rovukwe at its southern extremity.
"The point of most interest in Lake Moero is that it forms
one of a chain of lakes, connected by a river some five hundred
miles in length. First of all the Chambeze rises in the country
of Manibwe, N.E. of Molemba. It then flows southwest and
west till it reaches lat. 110 S., and long. 290 E., where it forms
Lake Bemba or Bangweolo; emerging thence it assumes the
new name Luapula, and comes down here to fall into Moero.
On going out of this lake it is known by the name Lualaba, as
it flows N.W. in Rua to form another lake with many islands
called Urenge or Ulenge. Beyond this, information is not
positive as to whether it enters Tanganyika or another lake
beyond that. When I crossed the Chambeze, the similarity of
names led me to imagine that this was a branch of the Zambesi.
The natives said'No. This goes southwest, and forms a very
large water there.' But I had become prepossessed with the idea
that Lake Liemba was that Bemba of which I had heard in
1863, and we had been so starved in the south that I gladly set
my face north. The river-like prolongation of Liemba might
go to Moero, and where I could not follow the arm of Liemba.
Then I worked my way to this lake. Since coming to Casembe's
the testimony of natives and Arabs has been so united and consistent that I am but ten days from Lake Bemba, or Bangweolo,
that I cannot doubt its accuracy. I am so tired of exploration
without a word from home or anywhere else for two years, that
I must go to Ujiji on Tanganyika for letters before doing anything else. The banks and country adjacent to Lake Bangweolo
are reported to be now very muddy and very unhealthy. I
have no medicine. The inhabitants suffer greatly from swelled
thyroid gland or Derbyshire neck and elephantiasis, and this is
the rainy season and very unsafe for me.
" When at the lower end of Moero we were so near Casembe
that it was thought well to ascertain the length of the lake, and
see Casembe too. We came up between the double range that
flanks the east of the lake; but mountains and plains are so




,   r,-''       ~  ":'1..
~~~~~~~~~~~~,,~/'7,'t"' / 








RECEPTION AT CASEMBES.               5351
covered with well-grown forest that we could seldom see it.
We reached Casembe's town on the 28th November. It stands
near the north end of the Lakelet Mofwe; this is from one to
three miles broad, and some six or seven long: it is full of sedgy
islands, and abounds in fish. The country is quite level, but
fifteen or twenty miles west of Mofwe we see a long range of
the mountains of Rua. Between this range and Mofwe the
Luapula flows past into Moero, the lake called Moero okata =
the great Moero, being about fifty miles long. The town of
Casernbe covers a mile square of cassava plantations, the huts
being dotted over that space. Some have square enclosures of
reeds, but no attempt has been made at arrangement: it might
be called a rural village rather than a town. No estimate
could be formed by counting the huts, they were so irregularly
planted, and hidden by cassava; but my impression from other
collections of huts was that the population was under a thousand
souls. The court or compound of Casembe-some would call
it a palace-is a square enclosure of three hundred yards by two
hundred yards. It is surrounded by a hedge of high reeds.
Inside, where Casembe honored me with a grand reception,
stands a gigantic hut for Casembe, and a score of small huts for
domestics. The queen's hut stands behind that of the chief,
with a number of small huts also. Most of the enclosed space
is covered with a plantation of cassava, Curcus purgaris, and
cotton. Casenmbe sat before his hut on a square seat placed on
lion and leopard skins. He was clothed in a coarse blue and
white Manchester print edged with red baize, and arranged in
large folds so as to look like a crinoline put on wrong side foremost. His arms, legs and head were covered with sleeves,
leggings and cap made of various colored beads in neat patterns:
a crown of yellow feathers surmounted his cap. Each of his
head men came forward, shaded by a huge, ill-made umbrella,
and followed by his dependents, made obeisance to Casernbe,
and sat down on his right and left: various bands of musicians
did the same. When called upon I rose and bowed, and an
old counsellor, with his ears cropped, gave the chief as filll an
account as he had been able to gather during our stay of the
English in general, and my antecedents in particular. My
having passed through Lunda to the west of Casembe, and vis



552           INTERVIEW  WITH CASEMBE.
ited chiefs of whom he scarcely knew anything, excited most
attention. He then assured me that I was welcome to his
country, to go where I liked, and do what I chose. We then
went (two boys carrying his train behind him) to an inner
apartment, where the articles of my present were exhibited in
detail. He had examined them privately before, and we knew
that he was satisfied. They consisted of eight yards of orangecolored serge, a large striped tablecloth; another large cloth
made at Manchester in imitation of west coast native manufacture, which never fails to excite the admiration of Arabs and
natives, and a large richly gilded comb for the back hair, such
as ladies wore fifty years ago: this was given to me by a friend
at Liverpool, and as Casembe and Nsama's people cultivate the
hair into large knobs behind, I was sure that this article would
tickle the fancy. Casembe expressed himself pleased, and again
bade me welcome.
"I had another interview, and tried to dissuade him from
selling his people as slaves. He listened a while, then broke off
into a tirade on the greatness of his country, his power and
dominion, which Mohamad bin Saleh, who has been here for
ten years, turned into ridicule, and made the audience laugh by
telling how other Lunda chiefs had given me oxen and sheep,
while Casembe had only a poor little goat and some fish to
bestow. He insisted also that there were but two sovereigns in
the world, the Sultan of Zanzibar and Victoria.  When we
went on a third occasion to bid Casenmbe farewell, he was much
less distant, and gave me the impression that I could soon become friends with him; but he has an ungainly look, and an
outward squint in each eye.  A number of human skulls
adorned the entrance to his courtyard; and great numbers of
his principal men having their ears cropped, and some with
their hands lopped off, showed his barbarous way of making his
ministers attentive and honest. I could not avoid indulging a
prejudice against him.
" The Portuguese visited Casembe long ago; but as each new
Casembe builds a new town, it is not easy to fix on the exact
spot to which strangers came. The last seven Casembes have
had their towns within seven miles of the present one. Dr.
Lacerda, Governor of Tette, on the Zambesi, was the only vis



FORMER CASEM3ES.                 553
itor of scientific attainments, and he died at the rivulet called
Chungu, three or four miles from this. The spot is called
Nlshinda, or Inchinda, which the Portuguese wrote Lucenda,
or Ucenda. The latitude given is nearly fifty miles wrong, but
the natives say that he lived only ten days after his arrival, and
if; as is probable, his mind was clouded with fever when he last
observed, those who have experienced what that is will readily
excuse any mistake he may have made. His object was to accormplish a much-desired project of the Portuguese to have an
overland communication between their eastern and western
possessions. This was never made by any of the Portuguese
nation; but two black traders succeeded partially with a part
of the distance, crossing once from Cassange, in Angola, to
Tette on the Zambesi, and returning with a letter from the
Governor of Mosambique. It is remarkable that this journey,
which was less by a thousand miles than from sea. to sea and
back again, should have forever quenched all white Portuguese
aspirations for an overland route.
" The different Casembes visited by the Portuguese seem to
have varied much in character and otherwise. Pereira, the first
visitor, said (I quote from memory) that Casembe had twenty
thousand trained soldiers, watered his streets daily, and sacrificed
twenty human victims every day. I could hear nothing of
human sacrifices now, and it is questionable if the present
Casembe could bring a thousand stragglers into the field.
When he usurped power five years ago, his country was densely
peopled; but he was so severe in his punishments-cropping
the ears, lopping off the hands, and other mutilations, selling
the children, for very slight offences, that his subjects gradually
dispersed themselves in the neighboring countries beyond his
power. This is the common mode by which tyranny is cured
in parts like these, where fugitives are never returned. The
present Casembe is very poor. When he had people who killed
elephants he was too stingy to share the profits of the sale of
the ivory with his subordinates. The elephant hunters have
either left him or neglect hunting, so he has now no tusks to
sell to the Arab traders who come from Tanganyika. Major
Monteiro, the third Portuguese who visited Casembe, appears
to have been badly treated by this man's predecessor, and no




554                 A HOT FOUNTAIN.
other of his nation has ventured so far since. They do not lose
much by remaining away, for a little ivory and slaves are all
that Casemnbe ever can have to sell. About a month to the west
of this the people of Katanga smelt copper-ore (malachite) into
large bars shaped like the capital letter I. They may be met
with of from fifty pounds to one hundred pounds weight all
over the country, and the inhabitants draw the copper into wire
for armlets and leglets. Gold is also found at Katanga, and
specimens were lately sent to the Sultan of Zanzibar.
"As we come down from the watershed towards Tanganyika
we enter an area of the earth's surface still disturbed by internal
igneous action. A hot fountain in the country of Nsama is
often used to boil cassava and maize. Earthquakes are by no
means rare. We experienced the shock of one while at Chitimba's village, and they extend as far as Casembe's. I felt as if
afloat, and as huts would not fall there was no sense of danger;
some of them that happened at night set the fowls a cackling.
The most remarkable effect of this one was that it changed the
rates of the chronometers; no rain fell after it. No one had
access to the chronometers but myself, and, as I had never
heard of this effect before, I may mention that one which lost
with great regularity 1-5 daily, lost 15s; another, whose rate
since leaving the coast was 15s, lost 40"; and a third, which
gained 6s daily, stopped altogether. Some of Nsama's people
ascribed the earthquakes to the hot fountain, because it showed
unusual commotion on these occasions; another hot fountain
exists nearer Tanganyika than Nsama's, and we passed one on
the shores of Moero.
"We could not understand why the natives called Moero
much larger than Tanganyika till we saw both. The greater
lake lies in a comparatively narrow trough, with high land on
each side, which is always visible; but when we look at Moero,
to the south of the mountains of Rua, on the west, we have
nothing but an apparently boundless sea horizon. The Luapula
and Rovukwe form a marsh at the southern extremity, and
Casembe dissuaded me from entering it, but sent a man to guide
me to different points of Moero farther down. From the
heights at which the southern portions were seen, it must be
from forty to sixty miles broad. From the south end of the




VALUABLE PRODUCTS.                  555
mountains of Rua (90 4' south lat.) it is thirty-three miles
broad. No native ever attempts to cross it even there. Its
fisheries are of great value to the inhabitants, and the produce
is carried to great distances.
"Among the vegetable products of this region, that which
interested me most was a sort of potato. It does not belong to
the solanaceous, but to the papilionaceous or pea family, and its
flowers have a delightful fragrance. It is easily propagated by
small cuttings of the root or stalk. The tuber is oblong, like
our kidney potato, and when boiled tastes exactly like our common potato. When unripe it has a slight degree of bitterness,
and it is believed to be wholesome; a piece of the root eaten
raw is a good remedy in nausea. It is met with on the uplands
alone, and seems incapable of bearing much heat, though I kept
some of the roots without earth in a box, which was carried in
the sun almost daily fbr six months, without destroying their
vegetative power.
"It is remarkable that in all the central regions of Africa
visited, the cotton is that known as the Pernambuco variety.
It has a long strong staple, seeds clustered together, and adherent to each other. The bushes, eight or ten feet high,
have woody stems, and the people make strong striped black
and white shawls of the cotton.
"It was pleasant to meet the palm-oil palm (Elais Guineaensis) at Casembe's, which is over three thousand feet above the
level of the sea. The oil is sold cheap, but no tradition exists
of its introduction into the country.
"I send no sketch of the country, because I have not yet
passed over a sufficient surface to give a connected view of the
whole watershed of this region, and I regret that I cannot
recommend any of the published maps I have seen as giving
even a tolerable idea of the country. One bold constructor of
maps has tacked on two hundred miles to the northwest end of
Lake Nyassa, a feat which no traveller has ever ventured to
imitate. Another has placed a river in the same quarter, running three thousand or four thousand feet up hill, and named it
the' NEW ZAMBESI,' because, I suppose, the old Zambesi runs
down hill. I have walked over both these mental abortions,




556             TURNING TOWARD UJIJI.
and did not know that I was walking on water till I saw them
in the maps."
The letter breaks of here abruptly. In reading it how we
are tempted to lament the dispensation which called him from
earth before he had been allowed to present to the world from
his own pen the connected story of this great expedition.
After spending a month in his town the doctor said good-bye
to Casembe, and set out on the 22d of December, in company
with Mohamad bin Saleh, for Ujiji. Making several days
journey from Casembe, the party halted at a little village called
Kabukwa, on a parallel with a large island in the lake called
Kiowa. It was the last day of the year, and the great man
looked wearily before him, oppressed with the uncertainty of
his living to read the letters he hoped to find at Ujiji; he was
sick too. His only food for some time had been coarsely ground
sorghum meal. How natural it was for him to make this little
note in his journal:
"Mohamad presented a meal of finely ground porridge, and
a fowl, and I immediately felt the difference, though I was not
grumbling at my coarse dishes."




CHAPTER XXVI.
1868.
"Only Water "-Native Indifference-Charms of Moero-Lake Scenery-In.
difference of Arabs-Covetousness-The Only Lesson Learned-KabwabwatiDreadful March-Evils of being with Arabs-Livingstone's Influence-Thieving Slaves-A Dead Halt-Long Delay-Yankees of Africa-Duplicity of
Mohamad-Desertion of Followers-Livingstone's Charity-Questionable Charity-Justice as well as Mercy-Arab Trouble-makers-Mohammedanism  Not
Taught-Not Adapted to Elevate Heathen-Christianity a Missionary CreedPowerlessness of Ceremonies-Power of the Word-Africans Curious and Cautious-They Need the Gospel-Obligation of Christians-Dulness of Kabwabwati-Livingstone turns South-Arrives at Casembe's-Cordial ReceptionPleasing Recollections-Deliverances-Ltopard Hunt-A Discovery-Cropped.
EEared Pest -- Casembe's Kindness - Mohamad Bogharib-Starting for Lake
Bemba-Discovery of the Great Lake-Description of it-Lake SurroundingsWanyamwezi-Northward Again- Commotions-War-Delays-Reach Kabwabwati-Abominations of Slave-Trade-Battle-Evils in Camp-Wanyamwezi Women During a Battle-Weariness-Christmas, January 31st, 1868.
THERE was compensation in the lake for all the weariness
and the want. It was only water; the native tribes and trading
Arabs alike pronounced it so. And there was water everywhere.
They never thought of the beauty of its broad surface mirrowing the lofty mountains, which seemed to look down with so
much pride on their nestling; and they never thought of the
grandeur, when their eyes rested on the mighty waters rushing
away through the deep rent in the mountains on the north,
gathering new  strength and impetuosity in the rocky chasm,
leaping and roaring in the wildness and gladness of their
release; and they never cared where the waters came from, and
thought no more of the river which flowed into the lake on the
south than of any other river. All of these things engaged the
thought of Livingstone, and wove themselves in a resistless
spell about him. His journal, in its brevity, only hints of the
delight Wvith which he strolled along the shores of Moero.  In
the freedom  of conversation with Mr. Stanley years after, he
557




558            SCENERY ON LAKE MOERO.
dwelt with enthusiasm on its charming scenery, and we will see
by-and-by, how important a place its waters held in his theory
of the hidden fountains, which the curious world has been seeking (luring so many thousand years. Standing on the north
in the clearest day, with a strong glass, he says he could not
see its southern shore; but it was narrower, and the eye could
wander between the lofty ranges on the east and west, resting,
as it pleased, on the lake. The ranges which confine it are only
twelve or fourteen miles apart at the more northern portion,
diverging as they extend southward, to embrace a broad valley
across which various streamlets and *rivers winding slowly
bring their offerings as to a queen. Along the shores, between
the mountain and the water, the humidity has encouraged the
ginger and ferns to marvellous profusion, and splendid tropical
forests cloth the valley, and lend their canopy of shade to herds
of sporting zebras, groups of drowsy elephants, and monstrous
buffaloes, and in their deeper gloom conceal the lion's lair, and
the stealthy leopard, waiting to surprise his prey. It is strange
that such a spot could never tempt the Arab from his bloody
path to gaze a while, and if he came there, it is wonderful that
the tuition of the scene could not kindle loftier thoughts than
his dull brooding on unholy wealth. It is saddest of all to
think upon, that in the fall of man, his soul was so enslaved of
selfishness, that all the charms of nature and the grace of God
cannot call away his greedy thought from gain. The tribes
dwelling about the shores of the lake had become thoroughly
infected by the Arab spirit, and would lie or steal, or fight for
the most trifling chance to fleece a traveller. The doctor had a
bit of experience with them in crossing the IKalongosi river,
which forms the northern boundary of Casembe's country; the
people of the village on its bank were at first the impersonations
of loyalty, and protested that they could not convey any of the
party out of the country for fear of displeasing the chief; but
their scruples yielded readily, when a fee was suggested, and
from  absolute refusal to carry him over, the patriots almost
came to blows in competition for the doubtful service. The
foreign influence which had been brought to bear on these unhappy people had not given them loftier thoughts; if they were
not entirely absorbed, still in eating and drinking it was hardly




r= l —.. —---— ~ —-— i-~ 
asaw ~ ~~                __=~~;_=~_=_=-_~=-=== —==~-.=  Mom-.~~ —I
SCN    NLKE1IEO








UNFORTUNATE ASSOCIATIONS.             561
better to be imitating only that meanest possible trait of a
higher manhood which was displayed in the covetousness of the
Arab traders.
Between the lake and the village of Muabo, which is distinguished by the strikingly euphonious name Kabwabwati, there
was an extensive plain which the rains had flooded, and there
was no avoiding it. The mud was generally ankle-deep, and
for four long hours the sick and hungry man dragged along this
dreadful path, whose horrors were varied only by the occasional
accident of stepping into the deep track of the elephant. But
when the Luao was reached the wading became more serious,
and for a full quarter of a mile the water flowed quite waistdeep. This stream, like many of those of Africa, imparts wonderful fertility to its border lands by its regular overflows; but
the people must accept the benefits they receive as the price of
health and comfort. The inhabitants seemed exceedingly suspicious of the travellers, and often closed the gates of their stockades on their approach. On some accounts it may have seemed
a providential thing that Livingstone had fallen into the company of Arab traders: it seemed to be a protection to him. But
we can not suppress our regret that he could not have continued
entirely separated from them that his life might have stood out
before the people among whom he passed in unclouded contrast
with that unprincipled class. It was hardly to be expected of
the ignorant natives that they would distinguish nicely between
the character of men travelling as companions, or be very much
impressed with the professions of generosity and love of Dr.
Livingstone, while by his side sat men who acknowledged no
creed but self-interest, and were held in dread and detestation.
It is a striking evidence of the singular capacity of Livingstone
for his chosen work, that at so great a disadvantage he still succeeded in winning the confidence and friendship of so many of
the rude residents of these distrustful villages. It was only by
the most constant vigilance that he could do it. The slaves of
Mohamad were continually stealing something from the patches
by the way, which, though of trifling value, must be returned.
Kabwabwati was reached on the 16th of January, in the
midst of the rainy season. The plain which he had already
crossed was hardly a specimen of the condition of vast tracts of




562               YANKEES OF AFRICA.
country between  abwababwati and Ujiji at such a season, and
he soon learned that an inevitable delay confronted him.
The town in which he had this gloomy prospect presented an
unusually motley appearance, and cherished ills of darker shade
than belong to a purely African village. Indeed, it was only
where the native African had been corrupted by unprincipled
agents of the outside world that Dr. Livingstone experienced
much difficulty, except such as was inseparable from his manner
of life and his purposes. This place was a principal depot in
the Arab trade. One of old Mohamad's sons lived there, and
his subjects made a great demonstration on the approach of the
old man. Besides the Arabs, there were present in the town
a number of Wanyamwezi, those " born traders of central Africa,"
who are described so ably by Mr. Stanley as the " Yankees of
Africa," the invariable attendants of Arab expeditions. These,
added to the natives of the town, made a population as unpromising as could be desired. The universal testimony was, however, that it was impossible to reach the Tanganyika during the
rainy season. The low lands were all flooded and in many
places would be found deeper than a man's head. If the doctor
had only known this while at Casernbe's he might have remained
there, which would have been infinitely preferable if he must
be delayed; but he had hastened from them, and turned his back
on the Lake Bangweolo in his eagerness to reach Ujiji. And it
was exceeding unpleasant to know that he had been deceived
into this mistake by Mohamad. Those who are peculiarly
sincere themselves are more easily the victims of insincerity.
The most generous are often the readiest prey of the selfish.
Much as Dr. Livingstone had travelled, and skilful as he may
have been in analyzing human nature, his own actions always
displayed the frank, almost childlike, beauty of simplicity and
confidence. So far was he from meriting suspicion, he could
suspect no one.
The old man who had welcomed him so cordially at Casembe's,
and who professed great pleasure in the hope of having his company to Ujiji, who seemed to postpone his own departure in
regard for the wishes of Livingstone, had really been a prisoner
at large in the town many years, and had only seized the occasion
presented by the coming of an Englishman to secure his release.




DESERTED BY FOLLOWERS.               563
This his Arab shrewdness found means to accomplish. The
chieftain had been brought somehow to associate his prisoner
with the visitor, and to understand that his release would be a
special favor to Livingstone. The deception which he had
practised might have found some justification in the judgment
of charity on the ground of his being so weary of his long
imprisonment, even though it had occasioned such inconvenience
and loss of time to his deliverer; but the unqualified depravity
of his character was exhibited in the secret influence he exerted
on the minds of the few followers of the man to whom he owed
his liberty. The doctor was wholly unconscious of this until he
had been nearly three months at Kabwabwati. He then determined to return southward to Casembe, and go on if possible
to Lake Bemba before going to Ujiji. To his utter astonishment his men refused to go; even Susi and Chuma, as he afterward told Mr. Stanley, deserted him for a time. It then
appeared that the Arab had been improving those months to
sow discontent in the minds of these faithful men, that he might
join them to himself.
Dr. Livingstone was very generous in his judgment on the
conduct of his men. "They were tired," he said; two long
years they had been following him about the land; they were
not interested in the great problem which summoned all his
energies; they knew nothing of the heavenly inspiration which
moved him to sacrifice himself for the well-being of that heathen
world: it was a beautiful generosity: it was like the man.
But it strains our charity considerably to sign his moderate
sentence upon Mohamad. Men are to be pitied for their wickedness, but the totalness of depravity cannot be its apology. It
is not easily decided precisely where human judgment may become severe, but it may be questioned whether the highest good
of the guilty himself is not sacrificed sometimes to the joy the
Christian has in tenderness and charity. Nothing is more
fascinating in human character than the capacity which God's
Spirit gives to rise above resentment.  We love to contemplate
the marvellous grace of God; we can gaze upon it without
comprehending it and be glad, but the majesty of his justice is
there as well; in our weakness we cannot fully harmonize these
attributes. The brow of justice seems harsh; we cannot com



564       MOHAMMEDANISM AND CHRISTIANITY.
prehend its completeness now, and therefore we cannot realize
its beauty; and because we cannot, we shrink from it. It may
be that decided and severe condemnation of a transgressor is not
so inconsistent with the proper Christian spirit as we sometimes
think it is.
Whatever we decide about it, the mischievous Mohamads will
go on making trouble for everybody in Africa, until the nobler
influences of a truer civilization than that they so poorly represent, at second hand, have raised the victims of their unscrupulous
cupidity above a price that they can offer, and they are compelled to retire before the growing brightness of a light they have
not sought to kindle with their Koran, and could not if they
would. They have extended their influence over vast extents of
African territory, and have preserved everywhere their distilctive customs, dress and religion. The Koran is their oracle;
out of its pages they draw all their decisions, from the most
trivial to the gravest. But they have not seemed concerned to
diffuse their religion among the natives of the country, and old
Mohamad bin Saleb, who with all his villany was a devout
Mohammedan and quite intelligent, assured Dr. Livingstone
that no attempt had ever been made to proselytize the Africans.
The Koran is never translated; the Arabs never feel themselves
called on to propagate their doctrines: they are only traders.
It is idle, therefore, for any traveller, even one so honorably
associated with African exploration as Captain Burton, to intimate that they would be better missionaries for Africa than
Christians, only because their Koran would not bring them in
conflict with the prevailing polygamous custom of the country.
The religion which accommodates itself to the prejudices of a
people will not more easily obtain authority over them.
The absolute antagonism of Christianity for every unholy
disposition of man, bringing it face to face with all his prejudices, has been a conspicuous element of its power. Such is
human nature, that the most radical measures are the most
effectual in their reformations; and the remarkable indifference
of the African to the creed of the Arab Mohammedan, while he
is always curious about Christianity, is an illustration, at hand,
of the folly of the idea of modifying the requirements of the
gospel to suit the particular conditions of particular communities,




THE OPEN BIBLE.                  565
that the people may be brought gradually to the absolute excellence of the divine law. It is the very genius of the gospel
that men be convicted of sin, by the dreadful contrast of themselves with God, while the marvellous purity of his law is flashed
upon their depravity.
But whatever the possibilities might be, the indifference of
the followers of Islam seals the utter worthlessness of Mohammedanism as an agency of civilization, even to say nothing of
saving men. It is indispensable that the missionary have it in
his heart to win men to his creed or his purposes. Christianity
is more intensely concerned about that than the religions of the
heathen, because the conviction of its absolute and universal
importance to mankind is inseparable from it.  Wherever there
is a Christian he feels that every other man ought to be one, an d,
as between heaven and hell, seeks to have them so.
It is naturally supposed by many that the African is peculiarly
susceptible to the influence of formula and ceremonies, but the
experience of the Mohammedans, whose forms and ceremonies,
displayed in indifference, have been unheeded, and the experience
of the Roman Catholics, whose wonderful zeal has been insufficient to awaken an interest in their pageantry and their
mummeries, contradict the supposition. Ignorant as they may
be, Dr. Livingstone's experience was, that the Africans always
wanted to know what they were about. It was the mistake of
Mohammedan and Catholic that both carried a sealed book in
their hand, and the power of Christianity was manifestly to a
great extent in its open Bible.  Wherever that wonderful book,
or any part of it, is given them, or its teachings are read to them
in their own language, the deepest interest is awakened. And
even when their ungodly passions arise in rebellion against it,
it is the theme of their conversation. God hasten the day when
his word may be in the mother tongue of all those tribes, and
his mighty power be seen in their holy living and felt in their
peaceful hearts. Oh, how they need it! —oppressed with all
superstitions, imprisoned in ignorance and despised by men!
Naturally enough, their superstition is always most active
about the grave. Death is full of terrors to them. They have
many foolish ideas about the connection of most trifling matters
with the dreaded approach of the destroyer. How precious will
29




56 6              CHRISTIAN OBLIGATION.
be esteemed the truth, which sets them free from oppressive
customs and kindles a fire on their hearthstones from which all
hid(eous imaginations shall shrink abashed! And let Christians
remember that they cannot delegate the redemption of Africa
from its degradation to others; no human system is equal to
the work, and no other creed can inspire its adherents for it.
Dr. Livingstone felt this more and more as he penetrated its
mysterious wilds farther and farther, and gained deeper insight
into the character of the people there.
But the reader will be impatient of this delay at Kabwabwati,
as the doctor himself was. Let him reflect that while we have
detained him a few minutes with our reflections, the great traveller waited long months in that heathen town, with no other
diversion than could be found in the dull monotony of providing for daily food, and cherishing, with sick heart, the deferred
hope of reaching Ujiji and letters sometime or other.
Mohamad resisted with innumerable arguments his proposition to go south; and not satisfied with encouraging his own
men to desert him, detained some of Casembe's men who had
come on business to the town. Thus annoyed and outraged by
one professing friendship, deprived of his followers, another man
might'have surrendered his purpose. Livingstone was not the
man to be forced into measures so easily, and accordingly he
set off with five of his attendants, who were finally moved to
repent of their disloyalty.
With great difficulty he retraced his steps toward Casembe's.
The rivers were all in flood, and every day saw the little party
every now and then almost waist-deep in water, beneath which
black tenacious mud seemed to grasp their feet at every step
with malicious eagerness.  Sometimes the flood swept about
then chest-deep, and all articles were of necessity carried on
the head; and to add to the discomforts of their march, the
broad belts of tangled tropical vegetation, which flanked most
of the streams, often entangled them. We can readily believe
that such a journey could only be performed willingly under
the inspiration of the loftiest consecration.  The mere novelty
of the scenes could not compensate for such sufferings as were
endured. A man for that might say truly, " When I see Bemba
I will see only water; and I will not ford a flood to find a
fountain."




A DISCOVERY.                   567
At length the journey was accomplished, and the sorrows of
the way, when they were past, were not so dreadful, and pleasant memories of little oddities and kindnesses of the people
were brighter in the retrospect. One time he had been separated from his party and thoroughly bewildered in the tall
tangled grass; but though he could not find the old friends he
found new ones at the neat little village of a woman named
Nyinakasanga (or Mother Kasanga), who was kind as she
should be with such a name, and made the stranger welcome
until his party found him. Another time a generous matron
spread for him a generous banquet, and her dignified husband,
when he knew what his spouse had done, signified his approval
of her act by saying to the stranger in the heartiest manner,
"That is your village: always go that way and eat my provisions."
Once he was sitting by the path, when some wood-cutters
came along; noticing that they turned out of it, he signaled
them not to be at that inconvenience, but they insisted, as it
would be very impolite in them to allow their shadows to fall
on the stranger.
While on the way he made a notable discovery which some
may consider important.  It had, he declares, never occurred
to him that there could ever be any possibility of turning the
fashionable hole through the cartilage of the nose to any account
better than that of holding some ornament, and it may be
safely assumed that no lady in the land who has supported an
analogous fashion since she was a child would ever dream that
the rude African would be first to find out that this perforation
might be utilized as a needle-holder; but so it is. Upon the
registered observation of a distinguished traveller, we say it,
and we hope it may be considered generous in us, to congratulate our few advocates of ear-boring, that they may at least
have the glory of seizing on a valuable suggestion, though it
may seem far-fetched. But more than all, as he looked back on
the dreary journey, there had been many ills endured; but he
remembered that there lay everywhere concealed in those forests
creatures of ferocious passions, and swimming in those rivers
were monstrous enemies of man. God had not only'inclined
the hearts of rude men kindly toward him, but kept him from




568                 A LEOPARD HUNT.
wild beasts. This deliverance was more notable because the
floods having forced these monsters from their jungles, they
were more numerous and ravenous than usual on the higher
land. Many villages had been broken up by them. There
were a great many leopards infesting some of the districts which
he had crossed. These cruel blood-thirsty animals lurk about
the paths, hidden by the tall waving grass, and spring on unsuspecting men, and many a victim never returns to tell the story
of his encounter. Farther south, in Caffre Land, leopard hunting ranks high in the list of wild and perilous delights. A
body of men take a position near some opening in the forest,
where the undergrowth is small or scarce; others with packs of
dogs begin the hunt at a distance, and approach through the
forest, very much after our western plan of driving for deer.
The tremendous baying of dogs and yelling of men is the first
intimation the waiting horsemen have that a leopard has been
found; riders and horses are equally impatient as the baying and
yelling draw nearer and nearer. And when the bounding object
of their quest enters the glade, away they fly in swift pursuit; the
dismayed animal finding new foes, strains every muscle, his
splendid robe glistening in the sunshine, and his eyes flashing
like fire, while the well-trained steeds, rejoicing in the chase, bear
their shouting riders in advance of the baying pack. And it is
an odd chance the leopard has of life, if a practised Caffre lifts
his spear. But there is not much time for review in a busy
life, and Dr. Livingstone had already lost so much time that
he was more eager than ever to press forward with his work.
Casembe received him very graciously, very much to the
chagrin of a certain cropped-eared babbler, who had exerted all
his abilities, with the persistency of an attorney, to make a
C case"y out of the " English coming a second time."
The chief received his plans for visiting Lake Bemba very
kindly, and offered no objections; but he could not understand
any more than his subjects why on earth the Englishman
should go so far only to see water, when there was enough so
much nearer. But as far as he was able, he seemed willing to
further the desires of his visitor. With all his cruelty he had
a vein of manly generosity in him, and improved greatly on acquaintance.  True, he could not rise above the superstition




CIFFRE LFOPATW HUNT.
1                              I~~~~~~~~~~:
1'I -                         s
SUPRSE  DXELPAT








" CHILD OF THE SULTAN."9             571
which he obeyed in taking a man's head off of whom he might
dream several times, and he was unscrupulous about the execution of witches; but there were other decisions of his which indicated that, outside of the influence of his superstitions, he
could apply sound reasoning in dispensing justice.
We will not weary the reader with the recital of the trifling
incidents of camping and village receptions, which were only
such as his own imagination may now suggest. Dr. Livingstone left Casembe's on the 11th of June, after having suffered
another delay of more than a month by the dilatoriness of that
worthy gentleman. Marching almost due south a little more
than a month, he was rewarded at length, on the 18th of July,
1868, by the discovery of one of the largest lakes of central
Africa. He had not travelled much more than one hundred
miles from Casembe, no more than an average of three miles a
day; and besides the tediousness of the journey, had endured
many hardships and faced many dangers; but as it had been so
many times before, the joy of realizing his hope made him forget the weariness and the perils lie had endured. Over a large
part of the country he had found scattered villages of Wanyamwezi, who, acknowledging the authority of the sultan at Zanzibar, were very respectful and helpful. They have settled in
the country only as traders, and though they frequently render
great service by beating back the Mazitu, who find such easy
prey in the aborigines, they are viewed with jealous eye by
both the Balonda and the Baitawa. These tribes look with
fear and envy on their growing power, and not unfrequently
these foreign settlers are obliged to turn their weapons on them
in self-defence. One of the pleasantest of the Wanyamwezi
head men was Kombo Kombo, whose stockade was on the bank
of the Chiberase river. The doctor came there in the midst of
a general jollification, and was most bountifully supplied with
pombe and food, and when he expressed his regret that his
goods were all gone and he had nothing to pay with, his generous host assured him that he expected nothing, he was "a child
of the sultan and ought to furnish all the doctor needed."
Copper and the iron ore so often mentioned were seen at
different places; and the doctor speaks of crossing grassy plains
and ranges of splendid hills; there were neat little gardens




572                THE CHOICE GROVE.
frequently seen, surrounded by high hedges, and one day his:
attention was drawn to a solitary forest-grave, a little rounded
mound, strewn over with flowers, and a number of large blue
beads; and there was a path which showed there were those
who loved the spot. How naturally his thoughts flew away
across the broad wilderness, and rivers, and valleys, to the grave
under the great baobab, tree, where he had laid the body of his
own "Mary."  And it was not strange either, that he thought
of his own death, and it was like him to say, just what he did
say: "This is the sort of grave I should prefer: to lie in the
still, still forest, and no hand ever disturb my bones. The
graves at home always seemed to me to be miserable, especially
those in the cold damp clay, and without elbow-room: but I
have nothing to do but wait till He, who is over all, decides
where I have to lay me down and die." There were some
scenes of this journey which had stamped themselves on his
memory among the things never to be forgotten, ever burning
memories which every day impelled him to greater exertion and
more earnest prayers in behalf of Africa. Never had he been
more affected by the horrors of the slave-trade. In one party
he says:
"Six men slaves were singing as if they did not feel the
weight and degradation of the slave-sticks. I asked the cause
of their mirth, and was told that they rejoiced at the idea'of
coming back after death and haunting and killing those who
had sold them.' Some of the words I had to inquire about;
for instance, the meaning of the words'to haunt and kill by
spirit power;' then it was,'Oh, you sent me off to Manga (seacoast), but the yoke is off when I die, and back I shall come to
haunt and to kill you.' Then all joined in the chorus, which
was the name of each vendor. It told not of fun, but of the
bitterness and tears of such as were oppressed, and on the side
of the oppressor there was a power; there be higher than
they."
It is indeed, as Mr. raller says, " extraordinary to notice
the total absence of all pride and enthusiasm" with which Dr.
Livingstone records the discovery of the great lake, for a sight
of which he had travelled so far and endured so much. He
simply writes: "On the 18th I walked a little way out (from




LAKE BANGWEOLO.                   573
the village of Mapuni) and saw the shores of the lake for the
first time; thankful that I had come safely hither."
He found the people about the lake very kind, and although
he was forced to tell them that his goods were all done, they did
not hesitate to supply his wants. The chief, Mapuni, showed
him all the respect he could have shown had he been loaded
with presents, and readily furnished a guide for exploring the
lake. A great many Babisa were found residing about the lake,
having made their homes among the native tribes.
On the 19th the doctor came to the village of Masantu, who
lives on tile shore of the lake, and having secured a canoe, with
no little trouble, however, he was enabled to visit several of the
islands. The water of the lake was of a deep sea-green color,
nowhere exhibiting the dark blue of Nyassa. It was much to
be regretted that he could make no measurements of its depth,
but he had been compelled to leave his line where one of his men
forsook him just after leaving Kabwabwati. The waves on the
lake ran high, and when strong winds are blowing it would be
quite hazardous to venture on its surface with a canoe. It was
ascertained to receive the waters of the Chambeze on the east,
and find its outlet through the Luapula into Moero. By the
best estimates which he could make, the doctor decided that
Bangweolo must be about one hundred and fifty miles long by
about eighty miles broad. The country immediately around
the lake he reports to be " flat, and very much denuded of trees
except the motsikiri or mosikisi, which has fine dark, dense foliage, and is spared for its shade, and the fatty oil yielded by its
seeds." Many people were seen boiling great pots of this oil,
which is greatly valued by them. There was not much of
novelty in the home scenes about the lake: " fishing, weaving
nets, beating bark for cloth, nursing babies, and smoking tobacco, is all the story."
Having spent already more time than he had given himself
at the lake, he started north again on the 30th. He was particularly anxious to rejoin Mohamrad Bogharib, with whose
trading party he had come down from Casembe's, in the hope
that the movements of that party might furnish him an escort
north again.  But when he reached the village of Kombo
Kombo he found serious difficulties surrounding him, and the




574             DREADFULLY RELIGIOUS.
Arabs themselves greatly perplexed. The whole country was
in confusion. Casembe and Chikumbi had joined their forces
against the Arabs,^ and the Wanyamwezi, whom they classed as
Arabs; and these foreigners were arranging to quit the country. It was clear that in this disturbed state of affairs so small
a party as Dr. Livingstone's could not hope to pass through the
country, and he could only wait until all went. While they
were waiting, Bin Omar, a Suaheli, came from the Chambeze,
and the two traders united their forces and began their retreat
northward, in company with about four hundred Wanyamwezi.
And with this party Dr. Livingstone's destiny was cast for the
time, and with them he reached Kabwabwati on 22d October.
He had spent many years in Africa, but never had endured ill
six months so many annoyances, or faced so many dangers. In
compensation for these perils and troubles he had succeeded in
forming the connecting link between his central and more
southern travels by mingling again with the subjects of Matiamvo, whom  we remember as the paramount chief of the
Balonda, and he had satisfied himself about the continuity of
the chain of waters from the Losanzwe range, which forms the
watershed south of Lake Tanganyika, extending southwestward, first, with the Chambeze into Lake Bangweolo, thence
northward in the Luapula (which he named Webb's river for
his old friend in England), on into the Lake Moero, and away
northward in the Lualofu again; thus fixing, as he fondly believed, the sources from which he would ultimately be able to
descend into the great mysterious Nile, victorious over all its
windings. We cannot imagine, therefore, that he regretted the
journey, even at so great a cost of time and comfort and absolute vitality. But his trials were not ended at Kabwabwati.
The men, with whom the gradual loss of his own followers and
the expenditure of all his goods had finally left him an involuntary associate, were far from being such specimens of humanity
as he would have selected. They were specimen Arab traders,
investing their cloth and beads in ivory and slaves. Trading
when they could, seizing what they dared, and fighting when
they must. Dreadfully religious, but seeming to find nothing
in their creed but covetousness, and making their confessions
only at the bar of self-interest. Life with them was giving the




THE SLAVE-TRADE.                  575
great champion of Africa's oppressed millions an insight into
the trade which he so despised, which' he could never have had
without that dreadful experience; and if the kindness which he
received personally at the hands of some of those engaged in it
moved him to gentler judgment of the men, the horrors of their
traffic, revealed every day more clearly, only intensified his abhorrence of it, and aroused him to more unrelenting denunciations of everything which encouraged it. He saw it in its
degrading influence on the minds of its victims; he saw it encouraging the most unnatural cruelties where tenderness and
love should have been implanted; he saw it confirming the most
oppressive superstitions and the most barbarous customs; he saw
it cultivating the meanest selfishness, and filling the minds of
the people with suspicions; he saw it fomenting dissensions and
creating wars; he saw it, not content with the restrictions of its
own mock legitimacy, rising at times with unpardonable barbarityv and desolating whole districts under color of some pretended loss. Most gladly would he have gone on, and escaped
the dreadful spectacle which sickened his soul continually, but
he must inevitably have fallen a victim to the justly incensed
tribes who assembled from all quarters to avenge themselves on
the traders.
He found himself in the midst of a regular war, without
being in the least responsible for it, and being utterly unable to
exert any influence for peace; the people had received so many
provocations, and endured so many wrongs, even according to
the low standards of justice which the traders themselves had
set up, that the Arabs and all their dependents were thoroughly
hated, and some recent barbarities of the parties sent out by
Mohamad Bogharib had been the fatal spark which set the
whole country ablaze. The doctor describes some of the scenes
of this war quite vividly:
" On the 23d of November," he says, " we were assailed by a
crowd of Imbozhwa on three sides; we had no stockade, but the
men built one as fast as the enemy allowed, cutting down trees,
and carrying them to the line of defence, while others kept the assailants at bay with their guns. Had it not been for the crowd of
Wanyamwezi we had, who shot vigorously with their arrows, and
occasionally chased the Imbozhwa, we should have been routed.'"




576             VICTORIA-CROSS FELLOWS."
He himself did not go near the fighting, but remained in
his house. Among the strangest features of the scene was the
-part taken by the women. "They could be seen," continues
the doctor, "everywhere moving up and down the village with
sieves as if winnowing; and singing songs, and lullilooing to
encourage their husbands and friends who were fighting. Each
had in her hand a branch of Ficus indica, which they waved
constantly as a charm. Though the Imbozhwa continued this
assault from early morning until I P. M. they only killed two
men with their arrows, and themselves lost ten."
But the witness could not withhold his praises for their bravery,
and mentions with special admiration the care with which they
looked after their fallen comrades. When one fell, two or three
would immediately seize him and carry him away from the field,
though pursued by great crowds of the Wanyamwezi with spears
and fired at by the Suaheli.  "Victoria-cross fellows, truly,
many of them were!" exclaims the enthusiastic Englishman.
The most gallant of them wore bunches of the tails of animals
and medicine charms tied to their waists. They would come
sidling and ambling up near the unfinished stockade and shoot
their arrows high up in the air to fall among the Wanyamwezi,
then picking up such arrows as they saw on the field run off
and return with the same prancing gait. They seemed to think
that this peculiar gait saved them from the balls, and the air of
confidence with which they lowered their heads when they heard
the whizzing to allow the balls to pass was a picture for an
artist.
It was quite evident to Livingstone that the Suaheli Arabs
were quite taken aback by the attitude of the natives; they expected them to flee as soon as they heard a gun fired in anger,
but instead of this they were very nearly being cut off, and
should have been but for our Wanyamwezi allies. It was admitted to be very fortunate that the attacking party had no
success in trying to get Mpweto and Karembwe to join them, or
it would have been more serious still.
Early on the 24th the assailants approached again, and called
on Mohamad to come out of his stockade if he were a man who
could fight, but the fence was finished, and no one seemed willing
to obey the taunting call. The doctor was glad that he had




A DREADFUL MURDER.                 577
nothing to do with it, but felt very thankful that he had been
detained, and had not, with his few attendants, fallen into the
hands of the justly infuriated Babemba. The attack was renewed, and some went out to them, fighting till noon: when a
man was killed and not carried off, the Wanyamwezi brought
his head and put it on a pole on the stockade-six heads were
thus placed. A fine young man was caught and brought in by
the Wanyamwezi: one stabbed him  behind, another cut his
forehead with an axe. Livingstone called in vain to them not
to kill him. As a last appeal, the poor fellow cried piteously
to the crowd surrounding him, " Don't kill me! and I will take
you to where the women are." "You lie," said his enemies,
"you intend to take us where we may be shot by your friends,"
and they killed him. The doctor protested loudly against the
cruelty and wickedness of the act, but his voice was powerless
against the rage of the Wanyamwezi.
He felt that the war lay at the door of Mohamad Bogharib,
and he did not hesitate to tell him that he considered him entirely in fault, and did all he could to move him to conciliatory
measures. But an Arab trader only makes admission of wrong
when it cannot be possibly avoided, and particularly is it difficult to persuade one to such measures as call for the relinquishing
aught of their gains. Dreadful as were the open hostilities which
he was compelled to witness, there were things occurring every
day-in the natural every-day life of the strange company,
ordinary occurrences in the trader's camp —which harrowed his
soul more severely than the violence of war, that he could think
of as extraordinary while the others were the common inevitable
horrors of the inhuman business.
But " at last he made a start for Ujiji with the Arabs on the
11th of December-Moliamad and his friends, a gang of \Wanyamwezi, and long lines of slaves bound together by their heavy
yokes. Some were burdened with ivory, others with copper and
food for the journey, while hope and fear and misery and villany
could be read off on the various countenances as they passed in
a long line out of the country, like a huge serpent dragging its
accursed folds away from the victim it has paralyzed with its
fangs."
It required only a short march to bring them to the Lokinda,




578            " CHRISTMAS COME AGAIN."
which was crossed on the 12th, though Chisabi, who was in
authority east of the Lokinda, had not joined the rest of the
Babemba in their war on the Arabs. It seemed unsafe for the
doctor to go on alone, and he endured the delays and mortifications of this strange company as patiently as possible. Every
day brought its fresh grievances to the traders in the escape of
their slaves. The prettier women were peculiarly successful in
making their escape. They knew well how to move the hearts
of their masters by their charms, and no sooner was the yoke
lifted in answer to their entreaties and promises, than they
bounded away like frightened roes through the tall grass and
were lost to view.
Christmas came again, and still he had not seen Ujiji or letters
from the far away friends who had been so long mourning hIim
as dead. He slaughtered a favorite goat to make a Christmas
dinner for his little party, which had now resumed its old appearance by the repentance of all the men who had been tempted
from their duty by the old prisoner of Casembe. A few days
more and he was spending the last day of 1868 on the bank of
the Lofuko, close by the great Lake Tanganyika, surrounded
by lovely scenery and filled with gratitude for the deliverances
of the year, and the important discoveries which he had been
allowed to make.




CHAPTER XXVII.
UJIJI.
Severe Illness-Thoughts and Memories-Some Good in All-Mohamad Bogharib's Kindness-Dr. Livingstone too Ill to Walk-Sufferings in being Carried-Arrival at Ujiji-Hardships Endured-Disappointment-Goods StolenUjiji-Products of the District —Market-Place-Wajiji's Salutations-Head
Ornamentation-Formal Introductions-Tattooing-A Representative Wa jiji
-Ornaments —Superstition-Superstitious Customs —Refusal to Carry Letters
-A Den of Thieves-Thani bin Suellim —Manyuema Country-Religiously
Villanous?-Bambarre-Expert Hunters-The Great Chief-The Covenant
of Peace-How Arabs keep Covenants-Mockery of Superstition-" Liliputian
Monsters "-A Pygmean Battle-Amazed at Guns-An Elephant Hunt-Unsatisfactory.
THE catalogue of sufferings in 1868 was finished by a dreadful wetting in the last day, and 1869 found Dr. Livingstone
very ill, and facing the Lofuko, thirty yards wide and waistdeep. The experience of delays was too fresh in his mind to
allow him  to run the risk of seeing this stream  rise suddenly
out of its banks and spread across the plains, an impassable
barrier in his way to Tanganyika, and he resolved to cross immediately. Across the river his strength failed more rapidly;
the additional exposure only abetted the disease which had
seized him, and he soon sank down with pneumonia. The fever
raged, and his mind, no longer clear and free, became the scene
of confused thoughts and memories, flitting and flowing vividly
and rapidly. The trees about him seemed to be covered with
human faces; sometimes the far away land surrounded him with
familiar scenes; his old friends came about him and his children,
and the sad, sweet;, prophetic lines were on his lips:
"I shall look into your faces,
And listen to what you say;
And be often very near you,
When you think I'm far away."
Another time he seemed to see a grave, and he thought himself dead without having reached Ujiji, without having seen the
579




580                SOMIE GOOD IN ALL.
long wished-for letters from his dear native land.  HIis sufferings during this illness were very great, and probably left him
an easier prey for the final sickness. God mercifully moved
the heart of Mohamad Bogharib to special kindness.  In the
most vicious there are traces of the purity which reigned in
man before the fall had darkened and defiled the glorious empire; hints of former virtue that relieve the deepening degeneracy of the soul, and contest the supremacy of evil, like the
glimmer, which lingers in the gathering darkness when the sun
is far away and his pencilings are so light that we do not call
them rays, relieves the night and contests the supremacy of
gloom. It is the redemption of our experience among men
from the shadow of their deformities, that it is veined, however
faintly, with kindnesses and loves. And it should awaken
emotions of gratitude, that God allows in the hearts of men
some remnants of the light and goodness which they have forfeited, to mitigate the sorrows of their depravity.  It is very
pleasing to think of the tenderness and kindness which Livingstone received at the hand of a man, about whose heart scenes
of unrivalled cruelty had been moulding an adamantine casing
during so many years.  Mohamad Bogharib was a specimen
Arab trader. He was thoroughly bent on gain; he was overbearing and cruel. The doctor had seen much in him to condemn, very little to admire; but he had himself been shown
very marked and persevering kindness by him. During more
than a year he had furnished and cooked his food. Though
involved in wars, he had never once forgotten the wants of his
destitute fellow-traveller; and had been most assiduous in his
attentions. And now, when at last he was prostrated, he had
him  borne forward by his followers.  It was the first time in
his life that Dr. Livingstone had needed to be carried on his
journey, and lie did not hesitate to record the kindness of
Mohamad and his gratitude. But though all care was used to
secure his comfort, the doctor describes this journey, on to the
lake, as one of great suffering. In his extreme illness, to be
carried at all must have been painfulf; but to be carried across
a broken country, lying in a sort of cot resting on the shoulders
of four men, whose feet were wounded constantly by sharp
thorns and bruised by the rough ground, up hill and down,




RECEPTION AT UJIJI.                581
jolted from side to side, under a vertical sun, which blistered
his skin wherever it became exposed, with only a bunch of
leaves to shelter his aching head and his face from the powerfill
rays, was indescribably painful. And all this time with only
such medical attention as Mohamad could render, and no food
except a little gruel. Thus battling with a dreadful disease,
sometimes for days so extremely ill that he could not be moved,
then rallying and relapsing, it was full six weeks before he
reached the Tanganyika at the confluence of the Lofuko. There
he obtained canoes, and after two weeks sailing, landed at Ujiji
on the 14th of March, 1869. He had been poorly able to note
the incidents of the journey; much of the time he had been
hardly conscious; his whole anxiety had been to reach Ujiji,
where, besides his letters, he expected to find a fresh supply of
medicines, and such other of the essentials to the comfort of an
Englishman as he stood most in need of.
We can hardly imagine a more dispiriting condition than
that in which this great man arrived at Ujiji. Three years and
a half before, he had left Zanzibar, well provided with attendants and stores; the attendants had melted away until only a
little handful of men followed him. His goods had been wasted
and stolen. HIe had been subjected to indescribable perplexities
and sorrows in regions swarming with slave-traders, and at the
hands of people who had learned only extortion and deception
from the Arabs. He had found his way hedged by the bitterness which Arab provocations had engendered in the native
mind against all foreigners. He had been unavoidably associated with a class of men whose lives were most repulsive to him,
and had been sickened at heart by the barbarities of the unholiest wars. Through it all, he had suffered for food and
endured constant exposure, traversing on foot broad plains,
climbing rugged mountains, fording broad rivers and inundated
swamps; his clothes and shoes were tattered; disease had come
on him and found him without a single remedy, with only his
overtaxed energies and impaired constitution to match against
it, and the odds of continued exposure and necessary exertion.
He was in the extremity of emaciation and destitution. We have
followed him along the western wilds and seen him fall prostrated
on the bed of the generous Englishman of Loanda; we have




582              DISAPPOINTED AT UJIJI.
seen him battling with the embarrassments of the Portuguese
communities along the Zambesi and the Shire. But even his
life, so full of trial and suffering, had received a deeper shade
during these years. And Ujiji had not half the consolations to
offer him that he had dreamed of. It disappointed him; it had
neither letters nor medicine for him. The unfaithful agents to
whose care his goods had been committed had performed his
service with the true spirit of his class, had plundered the
packages and left a remnant to their owner. The medicines,
wine and cheese had been left at Unyanyembe, thirteen days
travel east of Ujiji, and the way blocked up by a Mazitu war.
A few articles, however-coffee, tea, a little sugar, and some good
flannel underclothing —contributed very much to his comfort.
Of eighty pieces of cloth, sixty-two pieces had been stolen, each
measuring twenty-four yards, and similar freedom  with his
beads had been indulged in.
The prominence which Ujiji has assumed in connection with
Dr. Livingstone's later years will justify us in more extensive
inquiries about it than the hero whose presence there excites
our interest seems to have counted on.
The name Ujiji, like many of the names which we are in
danger of limiting improperly to a single village, when reading
books of African travel, distinguishes a district bordering on
the great Lake Tanganyika. A "district of surpassing beauty
and fertility," according to Stanley.  "The most productive
province in this section of the country," according to Burton;
where vegetables which must be cultivated elsewhere seemed to
flourish spontaneously. The earlier Arab settlers planted rice
along the shores of the lake and had abundant harvests. Sorghum, manioc, ground-nuts, beans, egg-plant, sweet potatoes,
yams, cucumbers, and artichokes, are all in the list of creature
comforts which are to be found in Ujiji. Sugar canes, tobacco
and cotton are conspicuous articles of merchandise. The plantain and Guinea palm flourish like aborigines in the fertile soil
and the humid atmosphere of the district; and all the trees and
vines of the forests exhibit wonderful luxuriance. The forests
are thronging with wild beasts; and the villanous monkeys find
special delight in most informal raids on the gardens of their
more serious neighbors.




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WAJIJI SALUTATIONS.                585
The human inhabitants who assert the claim of their nativity
in this splendid district, the Wajiji, are the peers of any tribe in
the land in those customs and characteristics which belong to
Africa.  But thirty-five years ago Arab traders, who had
already established markets at Unyanyemnbe, penetrated their
country and were eager to appropriate the advantages which
were so apparent to be realized by establishing a market
on the shores of the beautiful inland sea; and from that time
their country had become more and more a common ground for
all the surrounding tribes, tempted by the clothes and beads of
the Arabs. And the great market-place of their chief town is
a grand centre for many thousand square miles. The traveller
may see there "the agricultural and pastoral Wrajiji themselves,
with their store of grain, their flocks and herds; salt merchants
from Uvinza; ivory merchants from Uvira and Usowa; canoe
makers from Ugomo and Uvundi; and peddlers from Zanzibar;
the representatives of a dozen different tribes engaged in noisy
chaffer and barter." The streets of this strange town invite
him to an exhibition of as various customs and tempers, and
the huts cover scenes in home life that represent an area of
many, many miles. The salutations of a people are among the
more conspicuous formalities, and the Wajiji are not behind the
foremost in fastidious observance of the formalities of their
society. It is a question whether a fashionable lady of our
country would survive the sight, if she should unexpectedly behold a UTjiji belle making her bow to a gentleman on the street.
It is a liberal bow, an ardent, enthusiastic recognition; there is
no mistaking it, no danger that the gallant will pass by anxiously
querying whether his lady noticed him. We are at a loss to
describe this bow. Imagine yourself a young Wajiji gentleman,
arrayed in your best robe of bark cloth, or your best lion skin,
loitering down the avenues of that tropical city, a tall black
Venus approaching you in the distance; as she draws nearer, you
gaze with delight on the shining blackness, and wonder that
such grace is allowed to mortals. If you are a fortune hunter
your eye catches with covetous eagerness the splendid bands of
brass which she displays as carelessly as ever a fairer lady displayed her dainty hand with bejewelled fingers, and her exquisite
arm with glittering bracelet. If only beauty charms you, you
30




586              FORMIA L INTRODUCTIONS.
will dwell on the wonderful chiselling of the lady's features, that
splendid nose, so broadly and strongly planted, the generous
lips, and the cheeks adorned with wonderful designs, wrought
in the black waxy surface with the sharp point of a knife.
But, whoever you are, and however you are affected by the
lady's presence, when you have well confronted her it will be
almost killing, to behold that personification of African decorum
suddenly pause, and, bending forward, place her hand upon her
feet, or, if a more familiar friend, to have the punctilious lady
turn suddenly a broadside upon you, and clapping her hands furiously, break forth with the sonorous salutation, "Wake, wake,
waky, waky; huh, huh," and if you should be a real Wajiji
manll you would reply by clapping your hands in turn, and
catching up the lady's words, you would repeat them with answering earnestness. But we are not to imagine that the customs of this society provide for such impertinent recognitions
as are inflicted on people sometimes in nearer climes. Wajiji
gentlemen would as soon think of abandoning their splendid
valley as surrendering the tedious ceremony of introduction,
which is on this wise: a mnutual acquaintance, with profound
respect, introduces one gentleman to another; the two advance
with inimitable gravity, and grasping each other by the elbows,
begin to rub each other's arms vigorously, all the while repeating those familiar words "Wake, wake, waky, waky," never
failing to punctuate their sentences with the significant grunts,
"huh, huh," in token of the absolute satisfaction they have in
the privilege of knowing each other.
WVe are fully mindful that the elaborate disposition of nature's.ranial covering is not confined to Africa, but we have found it a
matter of quite as much importance there as here, and one involving marvels of design and workmanship, before which
reams of twisted "C papers " and tons of curling irons might
well despair. In Wajiii, now and then, there may be seen a
pate bare as an egg-shlell-it is only fashion though; more frequently the hair is left in " diagonal and horizontal lines or in
combs, ridges, tufts, stripes, with dainty frontal curls like beaucatchers; sometimes there are left only narrow bands across the
front; sometimes the lightest and most fantastic lines of wool
are to be seen wrapping the crown, and if not dazzling, at least
confounding the unaccustomed gaze.




A REPRESENTATIVE WAJIJI.                587
With such an elaborate crown it is natural to expect marvelionus attendant charms.  Most eccentric fancies will be surprised
by the designs described about the bodies, arms, and legs.
Tattooing is in perfection among the WVajiji, as among most of
the tribes in the lake region; and though the operation must be
painful indeed, it is precisely what the people would part with
last of all. How frequently do we find human beings clinging
most fondly to the most unreasonable customs at the sacrifice of
true comfort! There is not any conceivable tyranny so unrelenting and severe as that of fashion.  "You will find on a
representative person of the Wajiji an unconscionable mystery
of wheels and lines. About each breast there is a wheel, and
one encircling the navel; wavy lines are tattoed on the arms,
and the immovable bracelets about the wrist; wavy lines extend across the chest, and longer lines, with perplexing meanderings, extend from shoulders to hips, crossing on the abdomen;
while all over that rotundity there are most unmeaning blotches.
It is wonderful how crazy vanity may become; it is almost as
profligate of its ingenuity in Africa as ill America. But the
Wajiji are not satisfied with the inseparable decorations of their
tattooing; their vanity knows no restraint except poverty. How
natural that is! we can hardly realize that so familiar a speech
applies so far from home, but it does: we cannot deny it. Sometimes " a top of the fashion" lady may be seen with thirty or
forty necklaces of beads about her sable neck, and numerous
bracelets of beads, and belts of beads twined about the waist,
and depending in back and front from the neck; besides the
beads, charms innumerable, of ivory, hippopotamus teeth, and
boar's tusks.  And well these fine ladies understand the art of
arranging the dyed robes of sheepskin so as to conceal as
little as possible the mysteries of their toilets. These people
are skilful manufacturers of cotton cloth, and are better supplied
with that commodity, of which only a small quantity suffices in
completing the most satisfactory "make up" of man or woman;
for what is the use of making one's self so pretty if he covers
all the beauty with cloth?
The superstition of the Wajiji and the neighboring tribes is
perhaps more decided than in many of the tribes which have
become known to us. In one of their villages Mr. Stanley saw




588                 THE UJIJI ARABS.
an idol, the tutelar deity; it was the image of a human head
and shoulders, carved in wood, painted, the face white, and
staring black eyes. Before this image he noticed men and
women as they past bowing profoundly, as the Catholics do
when they pass the image of the Virgin. Innumerable customs
of respect and precaution grow out of their superstitions which
are seen cropping out daily. But we may detain the reader too
long with the natives, who are really little more conspicuous
than the people of many other tribes, in the village Ujiji, as Dr.
Livingstone found it.
AnongD the foreigners, the doctor was more immediately
associated with the Arabs, and their agents. They were the
resident representatives of the outside world. The more prominent of them seemed kind, after their ideas of kindness; but
either by their dishonesty or their unpardonably bad management he suffered distressing inconveniences and losses, and in
the one matter of most vital importance they failed him entirely.
For long years he had been as dead to his friends; the world
lhad mourned his loss, only the more sanguine of the people
cherishing the hope of yet hearing of him as alive. And now
that he was at a point in regular intercourse with the coast his
heart bounded with delight in the hope of sending letters away
which would inform his friends and family of his existence, his
successes and his hopes. For days and weeks he labored over
these precious pages, but to his great sorrow he found that the
Arabs refused to send them, fearing, as he guessed, that he might
complain in them to the Zanzibar authorities of their conduct
among the tribes west of the lake; and when at last he committed them to unwilling hands it turned out that he might as
well have consigned them to the flames; for the word of such
men is nothing when they think their gains are involved: those
letters never saw the light. After months of experience among
them Dr. Livingstone was constrained to pronounce Ujiji a den
of the worst slave-traders, compared with whom those he had
been with in Urungn and Itawa were gentlemen. They were
the rivals of the Portuguese in cruelty and meanness. "Their
business," he says, " was not a trade but a system of consecutive
murders; they go to plunder and kidnap, every trading trip is a
foray." They were continually concocting some villanous invasion of the tribes unprovided with guns.




VARIOUS DIFFICULTIES.               589
Prominent among the representatives of this nefarious class
was the very man of all on whom he had been instructed to depend, viz., Thani bin Suellim. This man had been a slave, and
had from that degradation risen to freedom and influence; -his
countenance told unmistakably the meanness of his spirit; he
had a "disagreeable squint of the right eye, protruding teeth,
averted lips, and the light mixed-breed color; he was a type.
of the vicious African." The doctor had anxiously awaited his
coming from Unyanyembe, whence he arrived on the 20th of
May, bringing with him two light boxes, for which he demanded
fourteen fathoms of cloth, although the carriage had been prepaid at Zanzibar; and not satisfied with this extortion and
additional presents, succeeded in stealing more, and in a short
time sent a demand for coffee: when this was declined he found
a bitter revenge in sending round a warning to all the Ujijians
against their carrying letters for the traveller to the coast.
Livingstone felt very anxious, as his strength returned, to
explore the lake thoroughly, particularly was he eager to trace
its northward course and examine the reported outlet in that
direction; but his supplies were so reduced by the plundering
of those who had been their custodians, and it was so manifest
that the Arabs and their associates at Ujiji were bent on fleecing
him entirely, that he was compelled to give up the undertaking
for the time. But, in the face of all the disappointments
and vexations and more serious discouragements, his purpose
remained firm: he would not relinquish his work. And early
in July we find him with his back upon Ujiji, and his face to
the northwest, bound for the Manyuema country.
The Manyuema had been exempt from the forays of the Arabs,
and he had reason to hope that they would be found friendly.
A great chief was reported as living far away there on a great
river, and it was exhilarating to think of reaching a people uncontaminated by the evil influences which had preceded him so
generally, in all the regions through which he had been travelling.
There lay before him a vast region which had never been penetrated even by the trader, a region, as we shall find, inhabited
by a people whose customs had never been modified by foreign
influences, a people as unlike the tribes nearer the coast as their
country was wilder and stranger than those sections where the




590             RELIGIOUSLY VILLANOUS?
emissaries of a semi-civilization had recorded their presence.
But it was inexpedient for even so bold a man to set out on
such a journey attended only by the five or six young men who
remained to him of his old escort; and reluctant as he was to
depend on such an agency, he was obliged to embrace the opportunity which arose of continuing his labors under the protection
of Mohamad Bogharib, who had arranged to make his first
journey into the country within a short time.
Securing canoes at Ujiji, he went along the eastern side of the
lake to the mouth of Kabogo river, just under the shadow of
the lofty mountain which lends its name to the stream. From
this point he was pulled across the lake and joined MAohamad
on Kasenge islet. Kasanga, the chief of this island, had gone
to fight the Gomna. After a few days delay, during which a
relative of Kasanga was engaged to act as guide, and various
arrangements perfected, the whole party embarked from Kasenge
and slept that night, the 2d of August, on the mainland in a
copse of hooked thorn. Though his health was much improved,
the doctor was still very weak, and even the short march of
three and a half miles along the lake the next day fatigued him
greatly.
The Arabs had begun their journey in all solemnity; it is
marvellous howreligiously a villanous work may be prosecuted.
Mohamad had killed a lamb in sacrifice to Hadrajee, and said
hlis prayers most devoutly, and they were fully under way.
Marching away from Tanganyika, they crossed first the Loyumba, a river flowing into the lake, then across several of its
tributaries, on across a hilly region, between ranges of mountains, to the Lobumba, which under a succession of names flows
with tortuous course into the Lualaba, far off in the northwest,
beyond Bambarre. The special localities could not be fixed
exactly, because of the unaccountable superabundance of names.
Countless small rivers crossed their path as they advanced. The
whole of August and twenty days of September were occupied
in reaching Bambarre, which until then had been the limit of
even the Arab travels. They had crossed many beautiful valleys
and splendid forests of majestic trees, and had seen such specimens of cassava as they had hardly dreamed of before, and
penetrated quite into the heart of a country until very recently




BA:MBARRE.                    591
associated in the minds of traders with all that is dreadful and
perilous.
The forests had supplied abundance of meat all the way, and
Mlohamad generously divided, as of old, with his companion. The
warlike natives all along betrayed by their curiosity their ignorance of such strangers as they saw traversing their fields and
valleys. The paths along which they walked had the appearance
of having been used for ages, and many of the gigantic trees
rivalled in magnitude those monsters of the west which the
doctor had declared, years before, that he would put against a
dozen floods. The Arabs had shown themselves expert hunters,
and over and over they provided for the doctor the choicest parts
of the lordly elephants which seemed waiting on every side the
hunter's aim. It is hardly possible for one inexperienced in
African travel to realize the wildness and the hardship, the
charm and weariness of such a journey. From the 3d of August
to the 21st of September they had travelled only about one hundred and forty miles. But the doctor's strength had increased
as he advanced, and he found himself much more vigorous when
lie arrived at Bambarre than he had been for a long time.
They were now quite in the heart of Manyuema, among a
people farther removed from civilization than any he had visited,
compared with whom indeed all the tribes which he had visited
formerly might be called civilized-thorough savages, on whom
not one ray or remote reflection of Christianity had ever fallen
- a people of whom strange stories had been told, whose name
inspired the more ignorant invaders with terror.
The great chief, Moenekuss, whom they had expected to find
at Bambarre, had been called away by the messenger who accepts
no denial, and his two sons were found in his place. These
men were named Moenembagg and Moenemgoi; they exercised
a joint authority. The elder was the wiser and the chief
spokesman in important matters, but Moeyemgoi seemed to be
the chief centre of authority. The power which had distinguished Moenekuss far and near seemed not to have descended
to his sons, but they imitated him as nearly as they could in his
deportment toward strangers.
It was quite manifest that these brothers looked on the party
with considerable suspicion, and to assure them, Mohamad re



592                  THE COVENANT.
sorted to the singular ceremony, widely prevalent among savage
tribes, known as mixing blood. In this ceremony a small incision was made in the forearm of each person, from which blood
was taken, and mixed, in the midst of declarations of undying
friendship. Moenembagg said, "Your people must not steal,
we never do."  " No stealing of fowls or men," said Moenemgoi. " Catch the thief and bring him to me; one who steals a
person is a pig," said Mohamad, and so the compact was made.
But it could hardly be in the power of a few words or drops of
blood to compose the anxieties of a people so ignorant and
isolated, in the presence of those who seemed to them to have
dropped among them from some other world. And the bearing
of the Arab party, nowhere distinguished for any special regard
for their covenants, was not calculated to increase the confidence
which would at best have been slowly formed. The slaves
among them very soon began their light-fingered attentions to
the property of their neighbors, and themselves, in turn, became
more and more the victims of a terror, far worse than apprehensions of losing a fowl or cloth; they heard much of the maneating propensities of the Manyuema. According to his custom,
Dr. Livingstone had a house put up for himself at Bambarre.
The native huts, though built square, were very low, with very
low doorways, but, unlike many of the tribes nearer the coast,
the men assume the labor of erecting these homes, and the chief
labor of the fields; expecting their women to do their part in
keeping them supplied with water and fuel. Among these rude
barbarians, now and then there appeared nobler specimens,
whose minds seemed engaged with graver problems than the
questions of present comfort which seemed to absorb their
fellows.
Two fine young men came to visit the doctor, and after various questions about his country, asked him whether people died
there, and where they went after death. "Who kills them?''
they asked, and " Have you no charm against death?"  Who
knows how many minds there are in untutored darkness, brooding over the mystery of the grave, and wondering whether there
be really no brighter light beyond it than they have, minds
waiting for the story which so many, in the brightness of its
light, despise?  It was sorrowful, indeed, to see the timid de



WHAT DOES IT MEAN?                 593
pendence of these poor creatures on their charms, which possessing
no power to help, are furnished by their credulity, with dreadful power to disappoint them. It is so everywhere in some
degree: men by their confidence create destroyers of agencies
most impotent-for that is a destroyer which disappoints us
in the hour of trial. Dr. Livingstone found a large beetle
hanging before an idol in a house of a deserted and burned village. The guardian remained amidst the ruins which it could
not prevent, like a mocker of man's foolish faith.
Among the unfamiliar customs of these isolated people, there
was one rite which seemed to link them with other lands and
ages. Circumcision was found to be commonly observed. It
is performed on the young, and unlike other African tribes who
have it, the Manyuema speak of it openly, and attend it with
great formalities and feasting.  Was there a time far in the
past, when these people, so benighted now, held intercourse with
the chosen race? Is this singular rite a single hint of privileges
enjoyed long, long ago? Is it the last trace of a -knowledge forfeited by some enormity of guilt? How is it that this particular
rite is observed and honored in the very heart of African
heathendom?
Another familiar sight was afforded the doctor in Bambarre,
which he did not need to wonder about a moment-a sight
which long ago had been stereotyped before him, by the most
pointed lesson: those dreadful "Liliputian monsters," a regiment of soldier ants, marched deliberately into his quarters
one morning, without warning or invitation, and took up their
quarters. The doctor submitted meekly, but another day there
canhe a detachment of Sirufu, known as driver ants, and laid
siege to the party so snugly housed. A pitched battle ensued,
which left the drivers in possession; just like it is among mennation succeeds nation.  But these domineering little rascals
are often paid for their barbarities: there is always an eater for
an eater; the white ants are a delicacy much in esteem among
the people, who watch their time and build shelters over the
huge abodes of their game; just when they are about sending
forth their winged colonies. The unsuspecting colony, bidding
farewell to the home of their youth, spread their wings, and
mounting suddenly in the air, strike against the roof and turn



59z4             AMAZED BY THE GUNS.
ble down in confusion on the ground, their loosely hooked wings
all detached fromn their fat bodies. The reader will remember
how artfully their wings are linked to them. Once on the
ground the cunning men sweep them up in baskets, and bear
them away to their huts in epicurean delight. The country all
about Bambarre was alive with splendid game, and there were
ample opportunities during the days of rest to astonish the
natives, by the display of the marvellous powers of ball and
powder. The natives were amazed by the guns. Their own
poisoned arrows were weapons not to be despised, but the sight
of guns, the loud report, the crushing force of the ball, the flashing of the powder, were to them the climax of the mysterious
and awful. The huge animals, however, of the forest, though
as much terrified, were in their deeper ignorance not more respectful than they should be, even though guns were about; the
hunter in an African forest can never be too much impressed
with the importance of constant vigilance.
It is no uncommon thing for the unwary or the inexperienced
to find themselves suddenly charged by the infuriated monsters
which they have ventured to insult too audaciously. Nearer
the coast, where hunters have ventured more commonly, we
have read of a party, who, taking with them  a few natives,
marched into the forests to "bag an elephant or two." The
natives, arrayed, to their delight, in old shirts, were sent ahead
equipped with muskets, to find the game; hardly had they disappeared, when the reports of their guns quite near at hand
were quickly followed by a tremlendous crashing of trees and
brushwood and the dreadful, unmistakable trumpet-like screaming, and back the men came followed by three or four huge
elephants in furious pursuit. The fleet limbs of the men were of
poor avail; the monsters dashed over them in a moment, knocking them right and left as they passed, and went rushing away
into the deeper forests. Elephants are elephants everywhere,
and are the victims of skill and caution more than of the fierce
courage which in our fancies we sometimes dream of matching
against wild beasts. The Manyuema greatly admired the ease
with which the strangers made themselves master of these great
prizes. But such employment, though it entertained the natives,
poorly repaid the toil and expense at which Mohamad had come




UNSATISFACTORY.                 595
to their country, while they exhibited such unwillingness to
trade. He had heard that the Manyuema were anxious for
slaves, and had brought great numbers, but found that the reports had been unfounded; and the conduct of a trader, named
Dugutnbe Hassani, who only a short time before had come this
far and indulged in great barbarities, under pretence of buying
ivory, had excited a prejudice against the Arab guide, which
threatened constantly to break out in open revenge.  Dr.
Livingstone had no desire to sit down in Bambarre, while the
Lualaba was flowing so near him. And Mohamad was restless
while his slaves were eating their heads off. Both were eager
for action.




CHAPTER XXVIII.
MANYUEMA.
Manyuema Country-The Paramount Chief-Independent Villages-Livingstone's Object-Leaves Bambarre-Westward —Splendid Scenery-VillagesArchitecture of Manyuema-Character of the People-Hidden VillagesCuriosity of Villagers-Evil Influence of Traders —Prejudices ArousedReturn to Bambarre-Ujiji Hood —Five Hundred Guns-Livingstone's Comrnpanion-Sets out from Bambarre Second Time-Appearance of Country-Huts
in Trees-Elephant Traps-Bloody Feuds-Omnipresent Love-Newly Married
Couple-Dreadful Swamps-Timely Hospitality-Promise of Letter-Hindered
Again-Slave-Traders' Barbarities-Dreadful Murders-Katoma's Camp-Deserted by Followers-Three only Faithful-Singing Frog —A Nursing FishMusicians-Livingstone's Resolution-Chuma, Susi and Gardner-A Man
Killed-Meets Mohamad Bogharib-A New Affliction-Disappointment-Return to Bambarre-Long Sickness-Manyuema Dreadful Cannibals-Bloodthirsty-Delight in Murder-The Soko-Soko Hunt-Soko and LeopardSoko and Lion-"Soko is a Man"-Impatience-Despondency-Hope Revived-Men and Letter Arrive from Zanzibar-New Difficulties-Trouble with
New Men-Another Start-Conscience Clear-His Plan-His Longing-A
Young Soko-On New Ground-Charming Scenery-Village HappinessTrials-The Lualaba at Last.
FEELING  himself as well rested as he could hope to be, Dr.
Livingstone was naturally impatient to be about the work which
lay before him; but it would be an infliction of unnecessary
weariness on the reader if we should lead him, step by step, with
the great traveller, detaining him where the hero was detained
and compelling him to traverse over and over the same ground,
as the actor of the story was obliged to do.  It should be borne
in mind that all the incidents in these eventful years were within
a circle of hardly one hundred miles diameter-a wild mountainous district, inhabited by people who acknowledged no
paramount chief, hundreds of independent villages, between
which no sort of sympathy or intercourse existed, where every
man's hand was against his neighbor.  The great object which
had drawn Dr. Livingstone there was the river which flowed
along, as he knew, somewhere on the western border of this
country, and it was necessary to pass through these wilds in
596




MANYUEMA COUNTRY.                  597
order that he might continue his explorations of that river,
which he had already traced from its source near Lake Liemba
through the Bangweolo and Lake Moero, and which he hoped to
demonstrate to be the real Nile. Such was the goal toward
which he was straining every nerve, for which he was enduring
all things.
His first journey through the country was a short detour from
Bambarre, made in November, 1870. Attended by his own men
and a party of Mohamad's followers, he set out westward in
hope of reaching the Lualaba and purchasing a canoe for its
exploration. This short trip revealed much splendid scenery
and gave him some insight into the characters and customs of
the people. He describes the country as "surpassingly beautiful," and the villages perched along the crests of the lofty hills
and mountains were pictures of neatness and comfort. Mucil
forethought as well as taste had been displayed in the arrangement of these villages. The streets were generally east and
west, that the warm sun-rays might stream down them with
unbroken power, licking up quickly the moisture. The dwellings were generally in a line, and at each end of the street there
were public meeting-houses. The houses were square, with low
roofs, most artfully thatched with a leaf resembling the banana,
probably a species of the euphorbia. Within these humble
abodes were clean and comfortable and testified to the attentions
of industrious housewives. And what was a very pleasing
feature of them they had never known the presence of the
abominable bugs, which are to be found only where the filthy
slaves of the Arabs have been.' In each of these homes the eye
is arrested by numbers of earthen pots hung by neat cordswinging tressels to the ceiling, and large quantities of firewood
neatly arranged by the provident matrons.
The tops of the lofty hills and mountain crests were adorned
with magnificent palm forests waving gracefully in every breeze,
and saluting each other across intervening forests of gigantic
trees, about which most vigorous climbing vines twine themselves, reaching from branch to branch and dropping here and
there in graceful festoons and forming fantastic arches everywhere, beneath which various wild fruit trees grew, feasting with
their wealth multitudes of monkeys and birds. The country




598              STRANGE CHARACTERS.
was charming, but every day revealed darker shades in the
characters of the people; deeper degradation had never confronted Dr. Livingstone, though no man had seen so much of
Africa as he. Every village seemed to be estranged from all
the rest by some deadly feud, and every man needed to protect
his life.
Their characters abounded in strange contradictions; conspicuously honest and sincere, they were absolutely distrustful; with
unquestionable kindness they joined horrid bloodthirstiness.
This indeed seemed to be their one great blemish; industrious,
temperate, handsome, honest and cleanly, they found delight in
killing; and though the charitable traveller was slow to believe
the reports which were floating about on every breath of their
cannibal propensities, he was destined soon to give up all doubt
of it. The pretty villages, so full of golden sunshine, so comfortable and neat, were all entirely isolated; there was no communication between them; the man from one who ventured to
another forfeited his head without judge or jury. Many of these
villages were almost entirely concealed; so thoroughly had the
work been done that a traveller ignorant of the country might
easily pass within a few yards of them without being aware of
their proximity.
The most serious annoyance experienced in those parts which
had been exempt from the presence of traders was in the curiosity
of the people, who were entirely unrestrained by any sense of
propriety; they were the most impertinent gazers the doctor had
ever seen, and though considerably inured to the ordeal of free
inspection which every stranger must submit to in African villages, he was intolerably bored by the unceasing stare of men
and women, who did not hesitate to push down the door of his
hut to indulge their curiosity. But when he came into the districts which had been visited by Dugumbe Hassani's bands there
was graver trouble. This man had ventured as far as Bambarre, as we have seen, and gathered immense quantities of ivory
just before Livingstone and Mohamad Bogharib came into the
country; he was the first of the traders, and though he had penetrated only so short a distance his brutal conduct had enraged
the whole population, and they would extend no hospitality nor
listen to offers of trade, but insisted on the strangers going away.




MOHAMAD BOGHARIB.                  599
No violence, however, was offered, and great caution seemed to
be exercised by the head men of the villages to avoid any collision with the travellers. They were in great terror of guns,
and seemed to feel that their lives only were sought and that all
the questions about ivory were only a blind used to secure an
advantage of them. During this journey the doctor came within
ten miles of the confluence of the Luama and the Lualaba, but
it was impossible to find any one who would sell him a canoe,
or any other attentions which might induce them to remain in
the country.
He returned to Bambarre on the 19th, and found that while
he was away a large herd of Ujijians had come there eager for
the ivory, rumors of which had already spread through the
country and produced great excitement. Thus in the very
initiation of this new expedition he found himself again surrounded by the disadvantages which would inevitably result
from the presence of the most vicious characters the world can
produce. Mohamad, though a trader buying ivory and slaves,
belonged to a better class of men, and while, if circumstances
had permitted, Dr. Livingstone would have preferred other
company, he was kind, and too respectful of the views and
interests of his companion to indulge in such a line of policy as
would seriously incommode him if it could be easily avoided,
and withal conducted his business with more of the spirit of the
traders who had escorted the doctor through the country of
Nsama. The Ujiji company had five hundred guns, and were
anxious to have Mohamad accompany them; he declined doing
so and waited for Dr. Livingstone's return. WVhen they were
together again, Livingstone tried hard to get his friend to
abandon the slaving part of his business, but it was no easy
matter to work so great a change in the views and conduct of
one so long accustomed to the finding of his revenues in that
unholy traffic; though it cannot be doubted that he learned
moderation, and caught something of the spirit of kindness
which pervaded all the actions of the Christian.
It was the day after Christmas before our party started the
second time from Bambarre. They then took a more northern
direction, almost at right-angles with the late route of the doctor,
and crossed the Luama near the village of Monangoi, and on




600                OMNIPRESENT LOVE.
fifty or sixty miles north across a succession of forests. In many
places the forests had been cleared away and gigantic grasses
had usurped the clearances; as they advanced large trees were
now and then passed, in whose branches many parrots had made
their nests, and sometimes far away from the ground they saw
huts of men lodged on the huge limbs of these lonely sentinels
like watch-towers, or places of refuge for their builders from the
wrath of their enemies. The villagers they met were civil,
but rushed about them like noisy children, and many of Mohamad's followers, unused to the ways of such wild men, were
terrified, and expected every moment to be killed and eaten.
The people were generally models of symmetry, and their art
had done but little to conceal their fine proportions beside their
necklaces and copper rings on wrists and ankles. Their skill
was confined to the arrangement of the hair, which the women
seemed to have special pleasure in weaving into basket-form
behind. The men, though masters with the spear and the bow,
had resorted, like many other tribes, to traps for the commonplace work of securing game. Huge elephant traps were seen
in many places, not unlike those described as in use in the south.
The country was teeming with people and multitudes of
hidden villages, which were approached along the beds of rivulets
that no foot-mark might betray them to an enemy. No higher
law than force had been dreamed of; the idea of confederation
had never penetrated their gloom; as many independent states
as there were villages crowded that small area, and blood that
cried for vengeance seemed to divide and isolate them all. The
men were always around, and rushed about them continually,
bearing heavy wooden shields. But tenderer passions existed
too; children played as innocently as anywhere, and love, omnipresent love, for God is love, shed a light which, though it could
not overpower the darkness of the deep depravity, did soften the
gloom a little. In one place they saw a newly-married couple
standing by the way, their arms around each other lovingly, and
nobody mocked them for their love as more enlightened people
might have done.
The marching was very difficult; the tall grass and dense
vegetation, even when the rains suspended, in turn impeded
their progress and drenched them with their dripping leaves.




GREAT SUFFERINGS.                 601
Dr. Livingstone soon found his strength failing again, and became the prey of a most trying disease; besides frequent fevers
he was attacked with severe choleraic purging.  He had no
medicine; Mohamad had opium, but that had no effect. Some
relief was found in boiling the water which he used, but he
struggled on in great weakness. Mohamad, too, suffered. The
incessant wetting brought on rheumatism, and the whole party
complained. As they advanced northward the vegetation became more and more luxuriant-the whole country was smothered with it; "an indescribable jungle of grass, which only
elephants could break through," received them whenever they
descended from  the rounded hills.  Passing through these
jungles the feet were constantly entangled among the reeds,
while the face and eyes were lashed by the leaves. One of
these valleys had been taken possession of by the Muabe palm;
the doctor says, "The leaf-stalks of these palms were as thick
and strong as a man's arm, and full twenty feet long. Many
of these had fallen off and blocked up all passage except one
path made and mixed up by the feet of buffaloes and elephants."
"In places like this," he continues, "the leg would frequently
sink into the holes made by elephants' feet up to the thighs."
Three long hours the party toiled through this dreary swamp.
Across a stream in this valley they found a natural bridge of
matted vegetation strong enough to bear a man's weight, and
conspicuous in the texture of it were many sacred lilies. Worn
out entirely by these dreadful jungles they stopped one day by
a village surrounded by gardens of maize, bananas, groundlnuts,
and cassava. The doctor had fallen behind the main body of
Mohamad's men, and was almost fainting.  The little village
looked like a paradise; he longed to rest, but the villagers " did
not want" him. A  woman came forward-a woman with
leprous hand-and tendered him her hut; it was a nice clean
one, and he entered it just in time to escape a very heavy rain.
His hostess quickly prepared him food, and brought it to him
and kindly pressed him to eat. " You are weak only from hunger," she said; "this will strengthen you." He could not tell
that he feared the leprosy, and took the food and put it out
of her sight. It will be a long time we think before a human
being travels beyond the range of human kindness. There can
31




602             GROUNDS OF CONFIDENCE.
hardly be a land where human hearts fail utterly to answer the
touch of God's benevolence in deeds of love, and it seems to be
woman's office to preserve longest and truest those primeval
impulses which redeem our fallen state from absolute sorrow,
and to catch most readily the tenderer inspirations of nature,
which restrain our evil passions like the will of Deity. Livingstone would not have been himself if he had failed to bless the
motherly heart which opened so promptly to his distress. And
we will be less than men, if the veins of goodness that we find
in barbarians are lost sight of in our abhorrence of their crimes;
less than Christians if the degradation of a people, whose characters retain even the faintest hints of a claim to a common
brotherhood with us, moves us not to compassion; and infidels
if we despair of witnessing the power of the Cross to elevate any
people in whose breasts there are the feeblest responses to the
mandates of benevolence.
The prejudices of the villagers, which were now becoming
so annoying again, were owing to the fact that they were coming
on the track of the herd of Ujijians who were mentioned as
passing Bambarre some time before. The traders had become
the one sorrow of Dr. Livingstone's life, as they were the great
curse of the natives.
Having followed the Chimunemune hills westward, and
made a circuit of the bolder Bininango hills in the neighborhood
of the river Lira, and finding himself disappointed greatly in
his hopes of reaching the Lualaba in that direction, he turned
south again with Mohamad and came down seven days' march
to Mamohela, where Katomba had his camp, while his emissaries
scoured the country in search of ivory. It was now five months
since Livingstone reached Bambarre, and already the whole
country of Manyuema was swarming with Arab traders and
their slave bands, who had rushed like vultures to the carcass
on the wonderful reports which had reached them. Already his
work seemed to be threatened with inevitable failure; the
atrocities of the bands of slave soldiers and servants, to whom
the Arabs committed the work of collecting their booty, had so
enraged the Manyuema that it was at the risk of a man's lifb
to attempt the shortest journey except with a strong force of
armed men, And while lhe could not separate himself from




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CHUMA, SUSI AND GARDNER.               605
them, it was very manifest that the traders were unwilling to
have one whom they considered a spy taking notes of their
actions. Every day there came fresh reports of murders; now
twenty killed, another day forty, and again ten, on most trifling
pretences.  In the midst of it all his own followers, the
Johanna men, all but three, forsook him; and of his old company only Chuma, Susi and Gardner remained to him.
WVhile he had remained at the camp of Katomba, trying to
regain his strength, Mohamad had gone away after ivory, and
he was left with his own little band; these were now only three,
but with them we find this wonderful man, the last of June,
1870, again setting his face northwest, when he was really
hardly able to walk. We hardly know which to admire most,
the courage and perseverance of the explorer, or the faithfulness
of those three young men, who, resisting all the temptations of
gain, offered by association with the'Arabs, and facing all the
perils of the enraged people who they were now convinced were
really man-eaters, marched bravely with him.
This was only a short journey. The people were civil for
fear, and frequently offered food, though they did not hesitate to
say that they only allowed the stranger to live because they
feared the guns. As an illustration of the dreadful outrages
which they were suffering, Livingstone passed through eleven
villages burned about one string of beads.  Beside the evils
invariably attending the forays of these traders, the peculiar condition of the Manyuema gave rise to innumerable barbarities
which would not have occurred in other countries. We have remarked the singular isolation of the villages, and the bitter
feuds existing between them; the foolish head men of these villages took advantage of the presence of these marauders and
often hired bands of them, by gifts of goats and ivory, tc
destroy the village of their enemies; so that they were in their
blindness paying for the very desolations which so incensed
them, paying the Arabs to do that which they hated them sc
bitterly for.
Surrounded by such gigantic evils an ordinary man would
have hardly been able to think of the rivulets, and plants, and
insects, and animals, or notice the little peculiarities; but thie
man had an eye for everything, and it was not in the power of




606                 A SINGING FROG.
anything which left him life to prevent him throwing light for
the world on all that he was permitted to see. In the midst of
a drenching rain, thoroughly perplexed and broken down, he
sat and watched the antics of a tiny fmiog which leaped on a
grassy leaf in front of him, and sang for himnt a very sweet tune,
as clearly and loudly as a bird could have done; and all his
fatigue could not repress the interest he felt in the ludicrous
problem which occurred to him: "How can so much music
come out of so small a musician?"
Another singular creature came under his notice-a large fish,
which astonished him with loud cries, and more still by the
exhibition of breasts full of milk with which she nourished her
young; and lengthening the list of wonders, an elephant with
three tusks, one of which was planted firmly on his proboscis.
But he was not only dependent on these lower orders for something to break the force of the trials which oppressed him —the
people soon learned to distinguish him from those with whom
he was associated, and seemed glad to please him from other
reasons than fear. At one; village he was entertained by
musicians who brought their " calabashes, having holes in them,
flute fashion," and displayed before him their attainments in
drum-beating and grotesque acting. But he could not lose
sight of the perilous life he was leading. One night, not far
from his sleeping-place, some one entered a camp of sleeping
Arabs and pinned one of their number to the ground with a
spear.
We can see, perhaps, more clearly than he saw it, that it was
a kind providence which brought him into the path of Mohamad
before he had advanced many days. From these men, who had
been a considerable distance north, he learned that the Lualaba
could not be seen in that direction. He would be obliged to
turn southwest again to reach it. He knew very well that he
could not possibly go far that way, under the circumstances,
with so few followers, and himself dreadfully afflicted with
ulcerated feet. This trouble was one which he had never experienced before, and threatened to become one of the severest
trials of his life. There was no alternative, and thoroughly
baffled for the time he turned sadly back and with great difficulty reached Bambarre again.




HORRIBLE. CANNIBALISI.               607
He was now utterly helpless; the sores on his feet had become irritable, eating ulcers; " if the foot was put on the
ground there was immediately a discharge of bloody ichor, and
the same discharge occurred every night, attended with great
pain. This dreadful affliction is common in all the slavecamps, and the cries of the sufferer are a nightly sound."  Entirely deprived of medicine he was dependent on such remedies
as could be furnished by Mohamad, who continued a steadfast
friend. Eighty days he was confined to his hut not able to take
a step, and months after his sores began healing he was still
obliged to remain in Bambarre. But he was not idle: the time
was improved in picking up knowledge of the customs of the
people and the face of the country, which, while not so satisfactory to him, was some compensation for the long confinement.
There could be no longer any doubt about the variety of the
stories, concerning the cannibal propensities of the people of
Manyuema; instance after instance came to his ears, and over
and over for himself he saw unmistakable evidences of their
barbarity. The people of other districts seemed only to eat
those men taken in battle, and the idea of revenge seemed to be
prominent in their minds in doing so, but in Batnbarre it was
clearly the depravity of taste: the people were eager for human
flesh, and Mohamad was obliged to threaten them with wholesale slaughter to prevent their digging up the dead bodies of
his men who died. They themselves have no graves: their dead
are eaten. The skull only of the great chief Moenekuss was preserved; his body was eaten and even the flesh from the skull,
which had been carefully scraped.  These horrid creatures,
horrid in this single disgusting appetite, would assemble in
crowds about the village where an execution was to take place,
like ravenous wolves. He had found rumors all through the
south of a dreadful tribe of man-eaters in the northwest, and
had counted them fables; but here he was in the midst of that
very tribe, talking with them, receiving kindnesses at their
hands, really admiring them on some accounts, struck with
their beauty and symmetry, and often touched with little exhibitions of tenderness displayed by them. He could hardly believe his own senses. It seemed so unreasonable that people
*with so many attractive traits should be the most barbarous




608             A PREMIUM ON MURDER.
of all men; but they did not try to conceal their craving for
human bodies, and were unquestionably the most bloodthirsty
people he had ever seen; other men would kill in war or in
anger, these would kill for pleasure. A group may be seen: one
steps forward and puts a scarlet feather on the ground, and
challenges those near to stick it in the hair; the man who accepts
this challenge must kill a man, to be entitled to wear the scarlet
feather.  There is another custom which forbids any one to
wear the skin of the muskcat unless he has murdered somebody.
It was very clear that they would take great pleasure in killing
every one of the strangers, if the guns were not in the way.
And it is hardly wonderful that such a disposition existed
toward the large body of their visitors. Dr. Livingstone had
tried vainly to check the cruelties of the traders, and various
reports, which reached him from time to time, convinced him
that some of them were beginning to see the wisdom of his advice.
The Manyuema were not long in finding out that guns did not
always kill, and with every discovery of that sort their own
weapons rose in their appreciation, and they frequently ventured
to join battle, sometimes with considerable loss to the traders.
This added to the fact that their murderous policy really failed
to procure for them the coveted ivory, it was earnestly hoped
would produce a change in the conduct of the traders. This
was not realized, however, while it was in Dr. Livingstone's
power to profit by it.
Next, probably, to the people themselves, the most interesting
object which came under the notice of Livingstone at this time
was an animal resembling the gorilla. These strange creatures
find their choice haunts in the tall strong grass, which we have
mentioned as usurping so promptly every square foot of ground
reclaimed front the forests. They often go erect, with their
hands resting on the head, as if to steady them as they walk;
and a more unattractive specimen of animal life cannot be
found. The doctor was firmly convinced that one of these individuals would do admirably standing for a picture of the
devil. He is described as having the most disgusting bestiality
of appearance. Livingstone, speaking of him, says: "His light
yellow face shows -off his ugly whiskers; his forehead, villanously
low, with high ears, is well in the background of the great




THE SOIO.                    609
dog-mouth; the teeth are slightly human, but the canines show
the beast by their large development. The hands, or rather the
fingers, are like those of the natives. The flesh of the feet is
yellow, and the eagerness with which the Manyuema devour it
leaves the impression that eating sokos was the first stage by
which they arrived at being cannibals; they say the flesh is
delicious. The soko is represented to be extremely knowing,
successfully stalking men and women while at their work, kidnapping children, and running up trees with them —he seems
to be amused by the sight of the young native in his, arms, but
comes down when tempted by a bunch of bananas, and as he
lifts that, drops the child: the young soko in such a case would
cling closely to the armpit of the elder. One man was cutting
out honey fiom a tree, and naked, when a soko suddenly appeared and caught him, then let him go: another man was
hunting, and missed in his attempt to stab a soko: it seized the
spear and broke it, then grappled with the man, who called to
his companions, "Soko has caught me," the soko bit off the
ends of his fingers and escaped unharmed. Both men are now
alive at Bambarre.
" The soko is so cunning, and has such sharp eyes, that no one
can stalk him in front without being seen, hence, when shot, it
is always in the back; when surrounded by men and nets, he is
generally speared in the back too. Otherwise he is not a very
formidable beast: he is nothing, as compared in power of damaging his assailant, to a leopard or lion, but is more like a man
unarmed, for it does not occur to him to use his canine teeth,
which are long and formidable. Numbers of them come down
in the forest, within a hundred yards of our camp, and would
be unknown but for giving tongue like fox-hounds: this is their
nearest approach to speech. A man hoeing was stalked by a
soko, and seized; he roared out, but the soko giggled and
grinned, and left him as if he had done it in play. A child
caught up by a soko is often abused by being pinched and
scratched, and let fall.  One of these animals is not unfrequently known to kill leopards, by seizing both paws and biting
them off so as to disable them; he then goes up into a tree and
groans over his wounds, and sometimes recovers, while the
leopard dies. At other times he pays for life of the leopard




610               HABITS OF THE SOKO.
with his own. He finds a rougher customer in the lion; this
powerful animal is more than a match for even the cunning of
the soko, and often not only kills him but tears off his limbs
in his filry.
" The sokos have some singular customs, and are the objects
of singular superstitions; they collect together and make a
drumming noise-some say with hollow trees-and then burst
forth into loud yells. He seems not to be particularly dangerois, and manifests no disposition to molest unarmed men or
women. If he is wounded, he is satisfied with simply biting
off the fingers of his assailant, and spitting them out; he then
slaps the cheeks of his victim, and biting a few times without
breaking the skin; he then draws out the spear, and stuffs
leaves into the wound to staunch the blood. They eat no flesh,
but are very fond of bananas. The Manyuema hold them in
much respect, and say of them,' Soko is a man, and nothing bad
in liim;' they believe that the dead who escape being eaten rise
as sokos. But notwithstanding their respect for them, they
devour their flesh most ravenously, and account it a great
luxury. The sokos are quite social; they live in communities
of about ten, each having his own female; an intruder from
another camp is beaten off with their fists and loud yells. If
one tries to seize the female of another, he is caught on the
ground, and all unite in boxing and biting the offender. A
male often carries a child, especially if they are passing from
one patch of forest to another over a grassy space; he then gives
it to the mother."
YWhile Dr. Livingstone was lying a Bambarre, reports were
constantly coming of the progre!- of the traders thlrough the
country; and it was an aggravation ot his sufferings to know
that while he, by the unfaithfulness of his own servants and the
bad conduct of the traders, was bound almost hand and foot,
these traders were already scattered along the banks of the great
river. It seemed hard that they who had at heart only the
meanest objects, and found their delight, more than anything
else, in murder and plunder, went so freely where they pleased;
while he, longing to solve the great. problem of so many centuries, and filled with love for these poor degraded beings, could
only sit and wait as patiently as possible. He could not be




I~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~I
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~-=_~-,-? — _,....
Ra,~~~~~-~2        — ~1-~
A i_         ~     ~       ~~==~~
MANYUEMA TlLTNTE, R KILLING OKOS (fro asketchby Dr. Liingstone)








GREATLY TROUBLED.                  613
satisfied to abandon his undertaking. He felt confident that
he held the key to the great mystery: how could he go back
before he had unlocked it?  And yet he knew very well that
the longer he was delayed the more difficult it would be to accomplish his object. He had left Ujiji elated with the thought
of being beyond the range of the miserable slaves; he had been
overtaken and passed by them, and grieved to feel that science
and civilization must be kicked about in their nobler mission
by such embodiments of meanest selfishness. But it had been
so, and will be so until science and civilization are championed
as they should be by their friends; until the hand of power
sweeps the unhappy continent of the vicious representatives of
the slave-trade. As the days and weeks passed, he found less
and less satisfaction in recording the various bits of information
which floated to him. He had written to Dr. Kirk, and received
no reply. Sometimes he felt7'that he would be obliged to give
up, but it was like giving up life; he was willing to lay his life
down, if he could only secure success. At last there came news
of men and means being on the way to him. He became more
hopeful then. His interest revived in everything; the customs of
the people were an entertainment again. With the hope of
being soon on the path again, he heard with great pleasure the
experience of Moenemokata, who had seen more of the Africans
than most of the Arabs. It was the testimony of this man,
"that if a man would only go with a good-natured civil tongue,
he could pass through the worst tribes unharmed," and the
Manyueman need not be an exception. He did not need to be
told this, but he was glad to hear it as the experience of others.
At last, early in February, 1871, his men arrived. It was
cheering to his weary heart that there were those anxious to
aid him. He now found that one great difficulty which had
been in the way of sending him assistance had been the dreadful ravages of cholera along the coast and at Zanzibar. This
dreadful disease had followed the trading paths into the interior,
where it became a dreadful scourge and swept away thousands
of people.
The hopes which had revived at the coming of men were sadly
disappointed in those who presented themselves. There were
only ten, all of them slaves of the Banians, who are subjects of




614                A GOOD CONSCIENCE.
the British crown; but they came with a lie in their mouths.
They swore that they had been instructed not to go with the
doctor, but to compel him to return to Zanzibar. And but for
the fear of pistol-shot and the interference of Mohamad Bogharib, they would have succeeded in their nefarious scheme.
After a great deal of worrying, the 16th of February saw this
singularly patient and persevering man again on the road. The
villagers, as we have said, had already observed the difference
between Dr. Livingstone and the other strangers, and they were
particularly gratified and as much astonished that he always
dealt so fairly with them, and they were really much more
obliging than lie had any hope of finding them. It was the
same beautiful and luxuriant country which he had traversed
before, and the same neat, secluded villages. His heart was
very much drawn out to the people. He sought to do them
good; there is an accent of sadness about it, but it breathes a
spirit so exalted that we feel like inserting a paragraph here,
which refers particularly to the feelings with which he had
prosecuted his work.
"In this journey," he writes, "I have endeavored to follow
with unswerving fidelity the line of duty. My course has been
an even one, turning neither to the right hand nor to the left,
though my route has been tortuous enough. All the hardship,
hunger, and toil were met with the filll conviction that I was
right in persevering to make a complete work of the exploration
of the sources of the Nile. Mine has been a calm, hopeful endeavor to do the work that has been given me to do, whether I
succeed or whether I fail. The prospect of death in pursuing
what I knew to be right did not make me veer to one side or
the other. I had a strong presentiment during the first three
years that I should never live through the enterprise, but it
weakened as I came near to the end of the journey, and an eager
desire to discover any evidence of the great Moses having,visited these parts bound me, spell-bound me, I may say, fer if I
could bring to light anything to confirm the sacred oracles, I
should not grudge one whit all the labor expended. I have to
go down the Central Lualaba or Webb's Lake river, then up
the Western or Young's Lake river to Katanga head-waters,
and then retire. I pray that it may be to my native land."




A YOUNG SOKO.                   615
As he extended his acquaintance with the Manyuema, he felt
more and more that their great want was national life. The
isolation of their little village communities was an unmitigated
evil. The Arabs whom he met as he journeyed all seemed
anxious to appear kind, and added to his store such little comforts as they had. Out of the supplies which he had received,
Livingstone carefully refunded all that he had received from
them during the days of his dependence. Katomba presented
him with a young soko, which had been caught when its mother
was killed. The account the doctor gives of this little creature,
written while she was in their company, is exceedingly interesting. He says:
"She sits eighteen inches high, has fine long black hair all
over, which was pretty so long as it was kept in order by her
dam. She is the least mischievous of all the monkey tribe I
have seen, and seems to know that in me she has a friend, and
sits quietly on the mat beside me. In walking, the first thing
observed is that she does not tread on the palms of her hands,
but on the backs of the second line of bones of the hands: in
doing this the nails do not touch the ground, nor do the
knuckles; she uses the arms thus supported crutch-fashion, and
hitches herself along between them; occasionally one hand is
put down before the other, and alternates with the feet, or she
walks upright and holds up a hand to any one to carry her. If
refused, she turns her face down, and makes grimaces of the
most bitter human weeping, wringing her hands, and sometimes
adding a fourth hand or foot to make the appeal more touching.
Grass or leaves she draws around her to make a nest, and re-sents any one meddling with her property. She is a most
friendly little beast, and came up to me at once, making her
chirrup of welcome, smelling my clothes and holding out her
hand to be shaken. When she was bound, she began to untie
the cord with fingers and thumbs in quite a systematic way, and
on being interfered with by a man, looked daggers, and screaming tried to beat him with her hands. She was afraid of his
stick and faced him, putting her back to me as a friend. She
holds out her hand for people to take her up and carry her,
quite like a spoiled child; then bursts into a passionate cry,
somewhat like that of a kite, and wrings her hands quite natu



616                A VILLAGE SCENE.
rally, as if in despair. She eats everything, covers herself with a
mat to sleep, and wipes her face with a leaf, as naturally as one
of us can with a handkerchief."
He left Mamolhela on the 1st of March, his party swelled
somewhat by the addition of seven of the Arab's people going
on to buy ivory. He was on new territory: his former trips
had not extended farther west than Mamohela; now he was
destined to reach the Lualaba.  They advanced  between
ranges of mountains, crossing innumerable rivulets. The people were generally kind, and felt themselves fully remunerated
by a few strings of beads, which Livingstone always gave as an
acknowledgment, although nothing was asked. Many of the
villages which he passed were unusually pretty, standing on
slopes, the neat huts facing the bright sunny street. In front
of the doors little verandahs were often made, and here at
dawn the family gathers round a fire, and, while enjoying the
heat needed in the cold that always accompanies the first darting of the light or sun's rays across the atmosphere, inhale the
delicious air, and talk over their little domestic affairs. The
various shaped leaves of the forest all around their village and
near their nestlings are bespangled with myriads of dewdrops.
The cocks crow vigorously, and strut and ogle; the kids gambol
and leap on the backs of their dams quietly chewing the cud;
other goats make believe fighting. Thrifty wives often bake
their new clay pots in a fire, made by lighting a heap of grass
roots: the next morning they extract salt from the ashes, and
so two birds are killed with one stone. The beauty of this
morning scene of peaceful enjoyment is indescribable. Infancy
gilds the fairy picture with its own lines, and it is probably
never forgotten, for the young, taken up from slavers, and
treated with all philanthropic missionary care and kindness,
still revert to the period of infancy as the finest- and fairest they
have known. They would go back to freedom and enjoyment
as fast as would our own sons of the soil, and be heedless to the
charms of hard work and no play, which our benevolence so
readily recognizes as best for them. The terror of the Arabs
had reached some of these villages, and the people fled when
they heard that strangers were approaching, supposing it to be
an Arab party. The farther he went the more horrible stories




THE BANKS OF THE LUALABA.              617
of blood met him. Hassani was waging most malicious war
everywhere he went; he declared that he did not begin hostilities, but falsehood seems to be the peculiar accomplishment of
the whole race. But there was trouble also in his own little
camp. His Banian slaves were bad enough alone, but they were
worse after associating with the Arab slaves who had joined the
party. Their rebellion began to show itself: they became very
insubordinate, and began their efforts of compulsion, which they
would not hesitate to accomplish by any possible agency.
Thus surrounded by difficulties, Livingstone reached Nyangwe, on the banks of the Lualaba, the 30th of March, 1871,
and found it a mighty river, full three thousand yards broad,
and always deep, and embracing many large islands. Its deep
banks were also very steep. He had reached the river: we will
see now whether he realized the hopes which had sustained
him in all his wearying journeys.
NECKLACE MADE OF HUMIAN FINGER BONES,




CHAPTER XXIX.
FOUR MONTHS AT NYANGWE.
The Lualaba-Abed and Hassani-The Temper of the Traders-Livingstone's
Situation-The Difficulty-Writing Materials-Nyangwe Market-WomenOld and Young-The Market Scenes-Eagerness for Barter-Independence of
Women-Ten Human Skulls-Cannibalism-Difficulty of getting a CanoeIvory-The Bakuss-A Characteristic Manceuvre-Bakuss' Opinion of Guns
-Arabs' Idea of Business-A Fiendish Plot-Dugumbe-No AssistanceWonderful Underground Houses-The People of Rua —" Heartbrokenness "Disappointed Utterly —Beautiful Picture Blighted —Dreadful SlaughterThree Hundred and Forty Dead-Superwickedness-Too Much to Bear-Resolved to Return-Importuned by the Natives-Determined-Providence in
the Disappointment —Providence in all Things - Precious Interests-A
Despatch-James Gordon Bennett, Jr.-Henry M. Stanley.
THE great river which he had sought so long and so resolutely was rolling at his feet. It was a noble river, worthy of
being thought of as the near relative of any water on earth.
The sight of it had cost great sacrifice and suffering.  Dr.
Livingstone stood willing to venture far more than he had endured in finding out the secrets it might be able to disclose.
But there were before him on those steep banks men who had
no sympathy with his enterprise, who could see in himn only the
representative of a nation whose unrelenting frown rested on
their barbarities; and at the hands of these men he could hope
for little that might in any way facilitate his work. At their
hands, in fact, we shall see that he met the resistance which at
last compelled him to go away from the river, to him so full of
promise, to relinquish what to him seemed like positive success,
when a few more vigorous strokes might have brought to him
its sweet realization.
The Arab traders who were found established at Nyangwe
on Dr. Livingstone's arrival, Abed and Hassani, were men
notorious for their barbarities.  They were associated with
Dugumbe, who was himself absent.  Notwithstanding professions of friendly feeling and promises of cooperation, it was soon
618




TEMPER OF THE TRADERS.              619
very evident that these men were determined to compel the
Englishman to go out of the country. They did not dare to
attempt this by any violent measures, but they could poison the
minds of the natives against him, could misrepresent him, could
tamper with his Banian slave followers, could prevent his
getting a canoe, could surround him with such scenes of cruelty
as would sicken his soul. All of these things they could do,
all of them they did. It is not ungenerous to say that they did
them all deliberately, designedly, because they did not want the
restraint of an Englishman's presence in their horrid business.
They were generous with their gifts, because they wanted to be
thought kind. They knew what to give and what to withhold;
they would give something to make a good impression, they
would be unable to do other things, and see to it underhandedly
that they were done by nobody, that they might be rid of the
man. They had numbers and goods, and they would by all
means possible get the confidence or excite the fears of the people, and they could turn either the confidence or the fear to the
same account.  They were determined that Dr. Livingstone
should get no canoe, while they promised to get him one almost
every day, managing thus to hold their victim in agonizing
alternations of hope and despondency nearly four months. We
need not ask now, surely, why Livingstone was so dependent:
we know that he had only three men on whom he could depend;
he had some means, but money could do nothing unless he could
procure men. Four men could not start alone through such a
country under such circumstances. He had been able sometimes to get escorts from traders, and he trusted that he would
succeed. He could have gone on if no Arabs had been in the
country. Then, with the support of Susi and Chuma, he could
have controlled his ten Banian men, but he could do nothing
with them while Hassani was at hand with his hordes, offering
them protection in all their unfaithfulness, and offering a premium for their desertion. We will not detain the reader with
the promises and disappointments which were the matters of
really most consequence to Dr. Livingstone every day, but take
advantage of the information which was treasured for us during
these months by the traveller.
It was not the smallest of the deprivations, we may remark,




620                NYANGWE MARPKET.
which Dr. Livingstone had now to contend with, that his paper
and ink were both exhausted. The world owes him a debt of
gratitude that he did not allow this to hinder him in the record
which he had so conscientiously made of what he saw and did.
An engraving faithfully representing a portion of his journal
written under these disadvantages will convey a better idea of
the shifts by which he mastered them than any words of ours.
An old newspaper, made into the shape of a copy book, and ink
made from the juice of some native berries, were his substitutes
for nicer materials. With these he preserved for us the scenes
and incidents of many months.
Probably the most interesting feature of the village of Nyangwe was its market. The market is a great institution in
Manyuemla. At Nyangwe the market was held every fourth
day. The vendors of the various commodities were chiefly
women, and such women as did full credit to the market-women
of the world. The great numbers assembled inspire all with
confidence, and they stand firmly by the rules of justice. This
assembly is the principal pleasure of all classes; all love to
trade in the market; if a man proposes to buy a chicken, the
owner tells him " Come to the market." There were all sorts of
articles to be had: cloth, fowls, fish, earthen vessels, cassava, palm
oil, salt, pepper, anything to be had in the country was to be
had there. And the business was carried on with the sprightly
energy which always attends a crowd and competition. The
women seemed to be fully in their element: they would haggle
and joke with equal readiness. Many of them were old and
careworn, others young and beautiful-it is so in all markets;
the old were thoughtful and anxious-looking, the young were
thoughtless and sportive —it is so with old and young people
elsewhere; the old women carried a weight of memories, the
young women were carried by hope toward a future of promiseit is always so with age and youth. But old and young understood their business. A few men are mingled with these busy
mothers and wives, selling their iron-ware, grass cloth and pigs.
When the market is fairly opened it is a busy scene, and the
description which Dr. Livingstone gives of it is too good to be
lost: "Every one is there in dead earnest; little time is lost in
friendly greetings. Vendors of fish run about with little pot



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MARKET SCENES.                    623
sherds full of snails or small fishes, or young clarias capensis —
smoke-dried, and spitted on twigs-or other relishes, to exchange
for cassava roots, dried after being steeped about three days in
water; potatoes, vegetables, or grain, bananas, flour, palm oil,
fowls, salt, pepper, all are bartered back and forth in the same
manner. Each individually is intensely anxious to trade; those
who have other articles are particularly eager to barter them for
relishes, and are positive in their assertions of the goodness or
badness of each article as market people seem to be in conscience
bound to do everywhere. The sweat may be seen standing in
great beads on their faces. Cocks, hanging with their heads
down across the shoulders, contribute their bravest crowing, and
pigs squeal their loudest. Iron knobs, drawn out at each end
to show the goodness of the metal, are exchanged for cloth of
the Muabe palm. They have a large funnel of basket-work
below the vessel holding the wares, and slip the goods down if
they are not to be seen. They deal fairly, and when differences
arose they were easily settled by the men interfering or pointing
to me: they appeal to each other, and have a strong sense of
natural justice. With so much food changing hands amongst
the three thousand attendants much benefit is derived; some
come from twenty to twenty-five miles. The men flaunt about
in gaudy-colored lambas of many folded kilts-the women
work hardest-the potters slap and ring their earthenware all
around, to show that there is not a single flaw in them. I
bought two finely shaped earthen bottles of porous earthenware,
to hold a gallon each, for one string of beads; the women carry
huge loads of them in their funnels above the baskets, strapped
to the shoulders and forehead, and their hands are full besides;
the roundness of the vessels is wonderful, seeing no machine is
used: no slaves could be induced to carry half as much as they
do willingly.  It is a scene of the finest natural acting imaginable. The eagerness with which all sorts of assertions are made
-the eager earnestness with which apparently all creation,
above, around, and beneath, is called on to attest the truth of
what they allege-and then the intense surprise and withering
scorn cast on those who despise their goods: but they show no
concern when the buyers turn up their noses at them. Little
girls run about selling cups of water for a few small fishes to
32




624             CCTEN HUMAN JAWBONES."Y
the half-exhausted wordy combatants. To me it was an amusing scene. I could not understand the words that flowed off
their glib tongues, but the gestures were too expressive to need
interpretation."  One man, a stranger in the market, was
noticed, who had ten human jawbones hung by a string over
his shoulder, and he seemed almost boastful of having killed
and eaten the original owners of them, and exhibited with his
knife his method of dissecting men with a painful coolness, and
only laughed with the rest when Dr. Livingstone expressed his
disgust.
Sometimes parties belonging to Dugumbe's horde tried to deal
in the market in a lordly way, as inferior men are wont to do
when they imagine themselves surrounded by weaker ones.
But there can hardly be found a class of people on earth who
are readier to assert their rights against domineering assumptions
than those very modest individuals who rejoice in being known
as market women. When those impertinent fellows came about
with their "I will buy that," and "These are mine, nobody
must touch that but me," and the like, the women quickly
taught them that they could monopolize nothing, but deal fairly
like other people.
The doctor had ample opportunity to observe the people of
the district, and the more he saw of them the more he was perplexe'd by the strange contradictions their characters revealed.
Cannibals they certainly were, thinking no more of the life of
a man than the blossom of a flower; as ready to kill a man as to
kill a pig; yet honest, fine-looking, sometimes really beautiful!
Every day their country was becoming more and more the
scene of confusion and bloodshed. Villages were being burned
and people massacred continually. They seemed to distinguish
him from the Arabs and their underlings, but he knew that
there could be no reliance placed in them, for contrasting with
their honesty in dealing was absolute untruthfulness in other
matters. They had no conscience against framing any sort of
lie by which they might get the pleasure of spilling blood.
As time passed, the hopes of getting a canoe or men were no
nearer realization. The traders themselves, seizing on his idea,
had fallen on the plan of proceeding in canoes. Reports came
of immense quantities of ivory in possession of the Babisa,




"A TRICK OF THE TRADE."               625
living farther down the river.  Katomba's people had been
there and were returning with immense quantities. They reported that the whole country was fuill of it; the door-posts
and house pillars were made of it. They had found the people
peaceable, and had gone in and come away without a single disturbance. They had traded copper rings for the ivory, two
rings for a tusk, which they had found the most acceptable
currency there as among the Manyuema. This country was
bordering on the several great rivers which flowed into the
Lualaba from the west. Hearing these wonderful reports only
whetted the eagerness of Hassani and Abed. They picked up
all the canoes to be had for themselves; partly by becoming
blood-relations with the natives, by the blood-letting ceremony;
partly by helping them to kill each other, partly by intimidating them, and partly by turning their prej udice against the
white man, who was represented as wanting no ivory or slaves,
but only canoes that he might kill Manyuema. Livingstone
was obliged to stand quietly and see canoe after canoe go off
down the noble river which he was so anxious to explore.
Once he was confident that his desire was realized; he felt as if
he had the precious canoe. Abed seemed to become possessed
of a more generous spirit, and although he was anxious to be
off to the ivory land would not go until he thought he had
sealed a bargain for a canoe for the doctor. But he was a little
too eager, and a Manyuema man, who it turned out had an old
grudge against another head man which he wanted to avenge,
came over the river and said that he had one hollowed out, and
he wanted goats and beads to hire people to drag it down to
the water. Abed advanced five goats, a thousand cowries, and
many beads. But it turned out that the man had no canoe, but
was only seeking to draw the traders into a difficulty with his
enemy and so get his revenge, for he knew that a difficulty occurring, the man's village would be burned and many of his
people killed by the Arabs. His plan for bringing about this
was to have Abed and the doctor send men to see the canoe,
who would of course carry their guns. The canoe being the
property of the other, while they would know that Abed had
paid for it, he was shrewd enough to see that there would be
very probably a fight before the parties separated, and however




626                 IVORY HUNTING.
it turned out he would have his revenge. This sort of thing
was one of the gravest difficulties which was to be contended
with in Manyuema. Abed was gone when this trick was found
out, and Livingstone declined to be led into the trap.
While the doctor was yet waiting, some of Abed's people
returned laden with tusks which they had purchased. The
traders, although they were unwilling to confess it, were coming
to see that the counsel of Livingstone was wiser than they had
thought. They had sacrificed all the prospects which were presented by the Manyuema country by their desperate policy; they
had closed district after district against themselves, and they
had begun to see that even African savages could be influenced
more easily byjustice and humanity than by plunder and murder.
How blessed a thing for Africa it would have been if the lesson
had been learned mlore thoroughly and generally! How blessed
a thing, if they had been good enough to sacrifice their passions
to their interest! The returning parties had much to say about
a country called 1Kuss, which lay at the confluence of the
Lomame which joins the Lualaba, probably a hundred miles
below Nyangwe. The Bakuss are Manyuema, but were distinguished by some peculiarities from their more southern countrymen. It was reported that the Bakuss were civil to strangers,
but that they had refused a passage into the country. In order
to impress them with their power, the effect of a musket shot on
a goat was shown them. They looked on with amazement,
thought it supernatural, looked up at the clouds, and offered to
bring ivory to buy the charm that could draw lightning down.
When it was afterwards attempted to force a path, they darted
aside on seeing the Wanyamwezi's followers putting the arrows
into the bowstrings, but stood in mute amazement looking at
the guns, which mowed them down in large numbers. They
thought that muskets were the insignia of chieftainship. Their
chiefs all go with a long straight staff of rattan, having a quantity
of black medicine smeared on each end, and no weapons in
their hands. They imagined that the guns were carried as
insignia of the same kind; some, jeering, called them big
tobacco-pipes, and seemed to have no fear on seeing a gun
levelled at them.
They used large and very long spears very expertly in the




A THRIVING BUSINESS.                627
long grass and forest of their country, and were terrible fellows
among themselves, and when they become acquainted with firearms will be terrible to the strangers who now murder themn.
The Bakuss cultivate more than the southern Manyuema, especially pennisetum and dura, or holcus sorghum; common coffee
is abundant in their district, and they use it highly scented with
vanilla, which must be fertilized by insects. This beverage is
usually handed round in cups after meals. Among their other
luxuries, pineapples were quite abundant. Their country was
much more open than the more southern districts, and was found
literally swarming with people. There, too, the market was the
great institution. In some things they might be an example to
their neighbors; in their personal cleanliness, for instance, which
is made obligatory by a law requiring them to bathe regularly
twice every day; and there is another custom by which all illicit
intercourse is severely punished. The offender in this must see
his whole family sold into slavery. The women, who form there,
as everywhere, an indispensable element of social life, are distinguished by rather small compressed heads, but their pleasant
countenances and their bright wide-awake eyes are evidences
enough of their intelligence.
But, more than all to the Arabs and their avaricious hordes,
the land was full of people and ivory, and let the people be
friendly or unfriendly, good or bad, beautiful or ugly, it was all
one to them: there was a chance for slaves and ivory; slaves and
ivory meant a thriving business. As for Dr. Livingstone, he
saw no hope of getting on; he was clearly considered in the way
by the traders, and his ten Banian men were certainly not to be
trusted. Abed overheard them one day plotting for his destruction. The horrible plan which they arranged was, if compelled
to go on, to watch their chance, and the first difficulty which
arose with the Manyuema they would fire off their guns and run
away, and as the doctor was weak and could not run as fast as
they he would be left to perish. The tones in which this fiendish
plot came to the ears of Abed convinced him that for Dr. Livingstone to go with them would be certain death at the hands of
the cannibals. Notwithstanding the fact that Abed in common
with Hassani and others had been by their policy a great hindrance to him, Dr. Livingstone had no doubt that in a matter




628                THE "RUA" HOUSES.
Of this sort he was a sincere friend, and could not doubt his
statement or the wisdom of his caution.
Thus worried beyond measure by these slaves, and baffled
utterly in his work, the doctor, sick at heart and in body, had
only one hope left. Dugumbe, who had not yet arrived, was expected daily; he was bringing his whole family, and proposed
fixing his head-quarters in the country and establishing a mart
and lines of carriers between his district and Ujiji. The single
hope was that this man, who was highest in authority among
the traders of the section, might assist him.
He at length arrived, and Dr. Livingstone offered him $2000
for ten men to replace the Banian slaves, and added to this offer
the proposition to give him all the goods he had at Ujiji besides. Dugumbe said that he would consult his associates and
decide what could be done. Besides going down to Lomame the
doctor was very anxious to explore Rua, the great district adjoining Manyuema on the other side of the Lualaba. This
great district was distinguished particularly by a wonderful
system of underground dwellings, resembling immense caves,
which had existed from remote ages. Nothing in all Africa
surpasses in magnitude and marvellous structure these wonderful
dwellings. Many of them were reported to be so large that entire tribes could take refuge in them. The people all spoke of
them as having been built by God and not by man. These vast
subterranean structures were said to be entered generally by
small unpretending openings, but to spread out suddenly into
enormous halls and corridors, wonderfully arranged and many
miles in extent; some were said to possess different entrances,
forty or fifty and sometimes even a greater number of miles apart.
The dwellers in these caverns were a warlike race, but, like all
the inner tribes of Africa, provided only with their bows and
spears, were easy victims of those bloody hordes which came on
them armed with guns. They were a bright, intelligent people,
and the slaves had sought many pretexts for quarrels with them
that they might have excuse for making war, which always
means with the Arabs making as many slaves as possible.
Dr. Livingstone had seen many of the unfortunate victims of
these cruel invasions in the great slave-gangs at different times
during his later travels, and among all those whose wrongs had




BROKEN-HEARTEDNIESS.                629
called forth his sympathies none had awakened a deeper interest.
They are a bold, free and freedom-loving race, rude and wild,
but lovers of their homes, and of natures keenly sensitive to the
degradation of the galling yoke of bondage. Among them he
had seen first the disease, strangest and saddest of all, which
affected him more deeply than any of the various forms of suffering which he had seen in all his wanderings. This disease was
broken-heartedness. He saw it first after the brother of Sydg
bin Habib was killed in Rua, and Syde vowing vengeance had
entered the country waging dreadful war. A large number of
captives were taken and brought away in chains; many of the
poor creatures died in a few days after passing the boundary of
their own country. They exhibited no signs of illness, but only
deep sadness, and would place their hands over their hearts,
saying, "All the pain is here," and sink down by the way and
expire. The children would for a time keep up with wonderful
endurance, but when it happened that the sound of dancing and
the merry tinkle of the small drums fell on their ears in passing
the villages, memories of home would rush on them, and then
they would cry and sob until the "broken-heart" came and they
too sank rapidly. The heart of tle man so long accustomed to
enter into the sorrows of the degraded, and to search for every
noble quality which they might possess, could not but feel an
uncommon interest in the Ba Rua; and the explorer of the
wonderful continent, to whom the world was looking for the
fullest information about all of its mysteries, was naturally
anxious to see for himself those wonderfull abodes, which seemed
to tell of an age of power surpassing all in the records of the
world, and of an ancient race who must have rivalled the fabled
giants in greatness.
But nothing came of Dugumbe's conference with his friends,
and the man who had braved so much and staked all he possessed
on this noble effort was thoroughly foiled. And it needed only
the horrible transactions about to burst on him to drive him
back to Ujiji, destitute, disappointed and sick.
A man named Mlanilla, one of the slaves employed in collecting ivory for the Arabs, had been carrying things with rather
a high hand of late. Among other things, he had formed a sort
of alliance with a Iimburu, the chief of the neighborhood, by




630               A PICTURE DEFACED.
"mixing blood" with him, and Kimburu had given him three
slaves, and he in eturn had sacked ten villages of their enemies
in token of friendship. This action of Manilla and Kimburu
had excited the jealousy of the Dugumbe's men, and they commenced a wholesale destruction of KIimburu's villages and
slaughter of his people, under pretence of punishing Manilla,
but really with no other object than to impress on the people of
the whole country that they must make friends with them alone,
and not with Manilla or any one else.
Dr. Livingstone first heard the firing on the other side of the
Lualaba; he knew well what it meant, and with a sad heart he
walked toward the market, where he was accustomed to find his
only relief from the oppressive intercourse with the people, whose
every word and act gave him pain. But he little dreamed what
a spectacle was awaiting him; little did he expect to see this
place which had been his refuge for months the scene of the most
dreadful crime he had ever witnessed. He had often beguiled
weary hours watching the eager activity of these women; had
enjoyed their innocent jokes, had been intensely amused by their
various performahces, and deeply interested in their exhibitions
of various tempers, and had found room for much serious reflection on the phases of character among the untaught, and probably
devised many a plan for the elevation of Africa, with the great
text-book of African character and African need lying open
before him. The place had been put among the pleasantest
sceies and experiences of his travels, and shelved in memory for
the illustration of the bright side of African life which he longed
to show his countrymen and the world. He did not dream that
this scene was so soon to be crimsoned with the blood of innocent
beings; that this pleasant memory was to receive the blackest
inscription possible for human depravity to indite. He never
penned a sadder record than we find under this memorable date.
He tells us that it was a hot, sultry day, and when he went
into the market he saw Adie and Manilla, and three of the men
who had lately come with Dugumbe. He was surprised to see
these three with their guns, and felt inclined to reprove them,
as one of his men did, for bringing weapons into the slaughtermarket, but attributing it to their ignorance, and it being very
hot, he was walking away to go out of the market, when he saw




- - -------------








HORRIBLE SLAUGHTER.                 633
one of the fellows haggling about a fowl, and seizing hold of it.
Before he had got thirty yards out, the discharge of two gulls
in the middle of the crowd told that slaughter had begun:
crowds dashed off from the place, and threw down their wares
in confusion, and ran. At the same time that the three opened
fire on the mass of people near the upper end of the marketplace volleys were discharged from a party down near the creek
on the panic-stricken women, who dashed at the canoes. These,
some fifty or more, were jammed in the creek, and the men forgot their paddles in the terror that seized all. The canoes were
not to be got out, for the creek was too small for so many; men
and women, wounded by the balls, poured into them, and leaped
and scrambled into the water, shrieking. A long line of heads
in the river showed that great numbers struck out for an island
a full mile off: in going towards it they had to put the left
shoulder to a current of about two miles an hour; if they had
struck away diagonally to the opposite bank, the current would
have aided them, and though nearly three miles off, some would
have gained land: as it was, the heads above water showed the
long line of those that would inevitably perish.
Shot after shot continued to be fired on the helpless and perishing. Some of the long line of heads disappeared quietly;
whilst other poor creatures threw their arms high, as if appealing to the great Father above, and sank. One canoe took in as
many as it could hold, and all paddled with hands and arms:
three canoes, got out in haste, picked up sinking friends, till all
went down together, and disappeared. One man in a long
canoe, which could have held forty or fifty, had clearly lost his
head; he had been out in the stream before the massacre began,
and now paddled up the river nowhere, and never looked to
the drowning. By-and-by all the heads disappeared; some had
turned down stream towards the bank, and escaped. Dugumbe
put people into one of the deserted vessels to save those in the
water, and saved twenty-one. One woman refused to be taken on
board, thinking that she was to be made a slave; she preferred
the chance of life by swimming, to the lot of a slave. The Arabs
themselves estimated the loss of life at between three hundred
and thirty and four hundred souls. The -shooting-party near
the canoes were so reckless, they killed two of their own people;




634                THE EXPLANATION.
and a Wanyamwezi follower, who got into a deserted canoe to
plunder, fell into the water, went down, then came up again,
and down to rise no more.
Dr. Livingstone's first impulse was to pistol the murderers,
but Dugumbe protested against his getting into a blood-feud,
and he was thankful afterwards that he took the advice. Two
wretched Moslems asserted "that the firing was done by the
people of the English;"! the doctor asked one of them why he
lied so, but he could utter no excuse: no other falsehood came
to his aid, he could only stand abashed, and so telling him not
to tell palpable falsehoods, Dr. Livingstone left him gaping.
After the terrible affair in the water, the party of Tagamoio,
who was the chief perpetrator, continued to fire on the people
there and fire their villages. Loud wails could be heard on the
left bank, over those who were there slain, ignorant of their
many friends now in the depths of Lualaba. No one will ever
know the exact loss on this bright sultry summer morning; no
wonder it gave the sorrowful witness the impression of being in
hell. All the slaves in the camp rushed at the fugitives on
land, and plundered them: women were for hours collecting and
carrying loads of what had been thrown down in terror.
Some escaped to Dr. Livingstone and were protected:
Dugumbe saved twenty-one, and of his own accord liberated
them; they were brought to the doctor, and remained over night
near his house. One woman of the saved had a musket-ball
through the thigh, another in the arm. The doctor sent men
with his flag to save some, for without a flag they too might
have been victims, for Tagamoio's people were shooting right
and left like fiends. Twelve villages were burning the next
morning.  The question was asked of Dugumbe and others,
" Now for what is all this murder? "  All blamed Manilla as
its cause, and in one sense he was the cause; but the wish to
make an impression in the country as to the importance and
greatness of the new comers was the most potent m6tive. It
was terrible to contemplate the murdering of so many. It was
enough to make a man sick at heart. Who could accompany
the people of Dugumbe and Tagamoio to Lomame and be free
from blood-guiltiness?
It was proposed to Dugumbe to catch the murderers, and




-= ~
~~~__ _  _                      _       _      ~        _~           = —----                         a       a        -----    = —--  ~ —-                 —:,_,',,15\~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~....
= =::' --- -- 
T!.i~, MASSMiCRIi, OF THE -lVA'NNYUESkA  WO1TE~  AT NvA~N(G~VTE.








AFTER THE MASSACRE.                637
hang them up in the market-place, as a protest against the
bloody deeds before the AManyuema. If, as he and others declared, the massacre was committed by Manilla's people, he
would have consented; but it was done by Tagamoio's people,
and others of this party, headed by Dugumbe. This slaughter
was peculiarly atrocious, inasmuch as it was well understood,
that by a sacred custom women coming to or from market have
never been known to be molested: even when two districts are
engaged in actual hostilities, "the women," say they, "pass
among us to market unmolested," nor has one ever been known
to be plundered by the men. But these Moslems were inferior
to the Manyuema in sense of justice and right. The people
under Hassani began the superwickedness of capture and pillage
of all indiscriminately. Dugumbe promised to send over men
to order Tagamoio's men to cease firing and burning villages;
they remained over among the ruins, feasting on goats and
fowls all night, and next day (16th) continued their infamous
work till twenty-seven villages were destroyed.
Livingstone, by his personal efforts, restored upwards of
thirty of the rescued to their friends: Dugumbe seemed to act
in good faith, and kept none of them; it was his own free will
that guided him. Women were delivered to their husbands,
and about thirty-three canoes left in the creek were kept for the
owners.
While the shooting was still going on on the other side, and
many captives being caught, Tagamoio's people began to cross
over in canoes, beating their drums, firing their guns, and
shouting, as if to say, "See the conquering heroes come; " they
are answered by the women of Dugumbe's camp lullilooing,
and friends then fire off their guns in joy.
This horrible massacre was more than he could endure. He
never could have consented to go a mile farther with the murderers. He had mastered his own feelings for years, had endured to be dependent on men whose presence was a continual
sorrow, had endured witnessing all the horrors of the slavetrade in its most extravagant proportions and its most abominable forms, all in the interest of science and humanity; to
endure this longer was to him worse than death, worse than
failure, worse than all other ills combined. He could not go on




638             THE QUESTION SEITTLED.
without them, because he would be in the power of ten men,
unprincipled every way, who had determined on his death if he
should attempt to compel them to go. He could not take only
Susi, Chuma, and Gardner, and go. They loved him, were true
to him, would die for him, but they would certainly be called
on to do it, and it would be all that they could do. There was
one thing only: he would return immediately to Ujiji and seek
to fit himself up again with a better escort.
When Dugumbe's party saw that he was determined to go back
they offered many things, but he took only a little gunpowder.
They made presents of beads, but he insisted on returning their
value in cloth; he felt that all they had was the price of blood.
Dugumbe hinlself seemed very friendly and sent beads and cowries for purchasing food on the journey, also two very fine large
Manytema swords, and two equally fine spears.
The poor sufferers, who had survived the dreadful war which
had been made on them, had found out fully that the white
man had a heart for them, and thronged him, begging him to
stay. Yes, those poor degraded people, so bloodthirsty themselves, cannibals, surrounded the one man in all that company
in whom dwelt the spirit of Christ, and begged him to stay
with them and help them find new homes. Oh, who shall distrust the power of Christian kindness to control the most unbridled passions?  What power on earth can take hold so
strongly on the hearts of men as the grace of God?  But it
was impossible; the decision was taken; he would go immediately. It was hard, but his faith accepted it. He had experienced too frequently, too steadily in his life, the goodness of God
to doubt that even this sorest of all his disappointments was
ordered graciously.  Only very lately he had seen that hand.
The very thing which he had most desired for two months,
if he had obtained, would have been his destruction: he had
wanted a canoe; only recently news had come that a party of
the traders who had gone down the river farther than the others,
came suddenly to tremendous falls, and several of the foremost
canoes were swept away. God had kept him back from that
peril: it was only one of many deliverances wrought against
his own blind will. He would trust God. And we shall soon
see how graciously God was drawing him back to Ujiji. We




PROVIDENCE UNFOLDED.               639
know that all civilized nations had shared the anxiety to know
whether he was living or dead: if living, where; if dead, where
he died and how?  We know that he had with him the records
of a number of years, covering many of the most important
discoveries ever made in Africa, containing many things of infinite consequence in connection with the great work of African
evangelization, and of immense importance in the interests of
science. We know that anxious, loving hearts in England, behind the great eager public, were almost breaking with desire to
know whether he was living or dead. There were reasons why
he should not die in the forests of Manyuema.  A noble,
generous man, consecrated to the interests of humanity, may
propose greater sacrifice of himself than God is pleased to have
him make. Many a man would die in a cause whose life may
be of more consequence than the cause itself. God may judge
in such matters; he may save a man at the sacrifice of that
man's dearest enterprises, and do graciously in it. We venture
to believe that this was done in bringing Dr. Livingstone back
to Ujiji just when he was brought back. His desire was to
explore the Lualaba, hoping to find it connected with the 1Nile.
But he would have been exposing all the information which
he had gained to eternal oblivion, had he gone on. If he had
died, all was lost-all his toil and sacrifice, all the interest of the
world in his expedition.. We ought to thank God for bringing
him out of the danger. And we can see the providence in it
more clearly than he saw it, when he turned his back on the
great river. We remember that just about the time that Dr.
Livingstone arrived at Bambarre, there was a young man, a
total stranger to him, one who would never have been thought
of as conceiving such an enterprise, purposing in his heart the
relief of the great traveller. Almost the very day that he entered
this wild country there flashed across the continent from
Paris to Madrid the few simple words which inaugurated the
expedition which God meant should relieve.the suspense of the
nations, save the information which was of such vast importance to the cause of Christ and humanity, and cheer the weary
toiler with assurances of his care and the appreciation of mankind. That young man was James Gordon Bennett, Jr.; those
simple words were, "Come to Paris on important business."




640                GOD'S EXPEDITION.
The man who received them was Henry M. Stanley.  The
two men met in a bed-room, early in the morning. They had
never met before; God had moved the heart of one, and chosen
the other. Many " Livingstone search expeditions" had failed:
God never fails. The men may neither of them have thought
of God in the matter, but God thought of Livingstone. We
do not believe that the men whom he selected for the purposes
of his providence were only absorbed by ends of personal gain
or emolument. The world is hardly generous in its habit of
finding lower motives for the actors in the nobler dramas of life,
when lofty motives might as easily be assigned them.  Mr.
Bennett was the proprietor of a great journal. The proprietor
of a great journal may be impelled to the very acts which conduce to its greater prosperity by holier impulses than can arise
out of considerations of wealth or popularity. We love to believe that Mr. Bennett is such a man. We prefer to see in his
purpose to send assistance to Dr. Livingstone an exhibition of
benevolence which dignifies humanity, and the impulses of a
soul awake to influences higher than earth. Mr. Bennett may
not have realized it fully, or he may have, but he was obeying
God. Mr. Stanley was a " Flying Journalist;" but God saw
in him the elements of the hero demanded by so great an occasion. We do not believe that he does himself justice in insinuating that he went to Africa only as he would have gone anywhere
else, under orders from his employer. Such a spirit of obedience and faithfilness under an engagement is commendable;
but we prefer to recognize in Mr. Stanley a spirit which lifts
him above the common level of ordinary business honesty. He
manifested an enthusiasm in this undertaking which betrayed
a greatness of soul which he has preferred to conceal, that his
employer might have the more honor.  He may not have
essayed this expedition at the suggestions of his own benevolence, he probably could not have done so; but when he saw
that he might do it, his heart bounded to the work. We believe he went forth from Paris under a higher commission than
that of Mr. Bennett. There was needed money, and there was
needed a man; God knew where to find both, and he did find
them, just when he saw that one of his noblest servants was approaching an extremity. There is something very solemn and




THE RENDEZVOUS APPOINTED.             641
precious about this remarkable expedition. God knew exactly
when the extremity would be. While he allowed Dr. Livingstone to go on wandering about in Manyuema, he allowed Mr.
Stanley to travel leisurely toward the continent of Africa. And
when the hour came, the hour of crushing disappointment, and
Dr. Livingstone turned toward Ujiji, sick at heart, utterly perplexed, the deliverer, an utter stranger, of another nation than
he, was easy marching-distance of the divinely appointed rendezvous. These two men-one a man broken down in health,
bearing on his shoulders the weight of many years of severe
hardships, and on his heart a heavier weight of anxieties and
sympathy for the degraded, the other a young man borne up
by the elasticity of youth, and lifeful in the freshness of his
noble work-will be approaching each other, with what adventures we shall see hereafter.




CHAPTER XXX.
TEE DELIVERANCE.
MIr. Stanley at Zanzibar-Selecting Followers-African Currency-Curiosity
Unsatisfied-" Speke's Faithfuls "-Bagamoyo-The Mrima-The Frontier of
Barbarism —The Baloch-The WVamrima-The Half-Caste Arab-Reception at
lBagamoyo-The Jesuit Mission-Mr. Stanley's House-Great PreparationsMr. Stanley and others-The Route Selected-On the March-First HuntThe Wakwere —The Wadoe-Beautiful Scenery-" Envious Evil "-The
WVaseguhha-Handsome Savage-The Wagogo —Death and Marriage-Penalties of Murder and Theft-News of Dr. Livingstone-A Difficulty-Murder
Attempted-Providence.
AIR. STANLEY landed at Zanzibar on the 6th of January,
1871, under commission from  Mr. James Gordon Bennett of
New York-with full liberty, unlimited as to expenses, with
his orders condensed into the shortest possible sentence-" Find
Livingstone."  His duty was very clearly set forth, and he was
there to do it. He brought with him to Zanzibar Win. Lawrence Farquhar, who had attracted his attention as first mate
on the vessel in which he had sailed from Bombay; and Selim,
a Christian Arab boy of Jerusalem, who had been employed
as interpreter.  About this little nucleus, Mr. Stanley began
immediately  forming his army for the arduous enterprise
before him. The selection of a force of attendants is probably
the most important part of the preparation for such an expedition. Besides followers, however, it was necessary to collect
great quantities of such African currency as we have now become tolerably familiar with.
The presence of an American in Zanzibar, fitting out so costly
an expedition, heading for central Africa, created quite a sensation, and became the engrossing topic of conversation in all circles. The interest was all the more intense, because this stranger seemed so very reticent about his purposes and plans. He
allowed no one to know more than was written on his card642




ON AFRICAN SOIL.                 643
"Henry M. Stanley," "New York Herald."  People high and
low were gazing in perplexity at that bit of card-board when
Mr. Stanley embarked his expedition for the African coast, on
the 5th of February.
A white man named Shaw had been employed at Zanzibar,
and six of the men who had gained considerable reputation
before, as "Speke's Faithfuls;;" these six men were named respectively, Bombay, Uledi, Ulimengo, Baruti, Ambari, and
MIabruki, who had obtained the distinction " bull-headed,"
from Captain Burton.  With his escort thus perfected, two
horses, two donkeys, and almost a boat-load of "money," Mr.
Stanley entered the harbor of Bagamoyo, early in February,
1871.
"Bagamoyo is a small port on the Mrima; this narrow strip
of land has attracted the gaze of the civilized world, because of
its conspicuous connection with the slave-trade; within the coast
limits of this small district are to be found the ports through
which by far the greater number of human beings bought or
captured or kidnapped in the interior are shipped abroad.
There are Mombasah, Bueni, Saadani, Whinde, Bagamoyo,
Kaole, Kenduchi, Dar Salaam, Mbuamaji, and Kilwa, with their
records of violence, just as they have been seen by so many
thousands of helpless victims of'man's inhumanity to man,'
gazing the last time toward their homes."
The traveller, who approaches this famous coast from the
sea, is constrained to gaze with peculiar interest on the scene
which lies before him. " On one side," writes Mr. Burton, "lies
the Indian ocean, illimitable toward the east, dimpled with its'anerithmon gelasma,' and broken westward by a thin line of
foam, creaming upon the whitest and finest of sand, the detritus
of coralline and madrepore. It dents the coast deeply, forming
bays, bayous, lagoons, and backwaters, where, after breaking
their force upon bars and black ledges of sand and rock, upon
diabolitos or sun-stained masses of a coarse conglomerate, and
upon strong wiers planted in crescent shape, the waters lie at
rest in the arms of the land like sheets of oil. The points and
islets formed by these sea-streams are almost flush with the
briny surface, yet they are overgrown with a profuse vegetation,
the result of tropical suns and copious showers, which supply
33




644                    MRINMA COAST.
the wants of rich soil. The banks of the backwaters are lined
with forests of white and red mangrove.  WVhen the tide is out
the cone-shaped root-work supporting each tree rises naked from
the deep sea-ooze; parasitical oysters cluster over the trunks at
water level, and between the adults rise slender young shoots,
tipped with bunches of brilliant green.  The pure white sand is
bound together by a kind of convolvulus, whose large fleshy
leaves and lilac-colored flowers creep along the loose soil,
where, raised high above the ocean level, the coast is a wall of
verdure. Plots of bald old trees, bent by the regular breezes,
betray the positions of settlements, which, generally sheltered
from sight, besprinkle the coast in a long straggling line like
the suburbs of a populous city. Thirteen of these settlements
were counted in a space of three miles. Here and there the
monotony of green is relieved by dwarf earth-cliffs and scaurs
of rufous hue. And behind the foreground of alluvial plain, at
a distance varying from three to five miles, rises a blue line of
higher level conspicuous even from Zanzibar island-the
frontier of the wild men. In the narrow strip between this
frontier of absolute barbarism and the coast, the region we have
described, where the semi-civilization has its foothold, the
principal part of the population are soldiers, who call themselves Baloch. Many of them. were born in Arabia, where they
were fakirs, sailors, porters, and day-laborers, barbers, dategleaners, beggars, and thieves.  They are a turbulent braggadocio set: as young men, with no loftier ambition than may be
gratified in smoking, chatting, and idle controversy; as old men
they are silly, babbling patriarchs with white beards, telling
wondrous stories of former times and distant places. Young or
old, they are notorious liars and vagabonds. Next to these in
dignity are the Wamrima, whose highest aspiration is the
privilege of idleness and luxury, which comes easily to them by
unscrupulous exactions from  travellers and traders, and the
labor of the slaves who cultivate their fields. Mingling with
the soldiers and Wamrima are numerous representatives of the
inland tribes in various capacities. The half-caste Arab, too, is
a conspicuous character in the motley society of Mrima. A
degraded licentious class, loving the freedom from restraint,
which is the license of barbarism, and wearing with boastful




JESUIT MISSION.                  64.5
pride the insignia of his Arabic origin, chafing under the contempt in which his black skin is held, and pampering the lusts
of his black blood.  Among such people the European or
American must not expect to find any appreciation of his earnest ideas of life. It is only natural that the days should be
passed in drumming, dancing, and drinking, gossip, squabble,
and intrigue. Bagamoyo is a representative town of Mrima,
and when Mr. Stanley landed there, it was amidst such people,
and surrounded by such scenes. And the dignitary on whom
it devolved to welcome him as one great man welcomes another
was no less a personage than the Jemedar (commander we would
say) of the soldiers stationed there. This gentleman came forward adorned with a long trailing turban, to shake the stranger's hand, and assisted in the debarkation of the expedition.
But at Bagamoyo Mr. Stanley found also cordial welcome at
the hands of the members of the Jesuit mission, established at
that place under Father Superior Horner, who offered him
their hospitality, which was as genial and lavish as could have
been expected in the most enlightened city on earth; and while
he felt unwilling to give up his independence, so far as to take
up his abode there, he enjoyed exceedingly such visits as he paid
the " fathers."  "The missions" says he, " forms quite a village
of itself, numbering some fifteen or sixteen houses. There are
ten padres engaged in the establishment and as many sisters.
They have over two hundred pupils, boys and girls, in their
care, and all of them seemed to be making good progress." How
much happier would have been all eastern Africa to-day, if
these earnest men and their predecessors had only pursued the
wiser course of making the absolute conversion of men their
primary aim and the ground-work of the reformation they
sought to effect.
Immediately on landing, Mr. Stanley selected himself a house
in the outskirts of the village, and set about completing his
arrangements for his march to Ujiji. And such a task! The
parties through whom he was obliged to operate, in order to
secure carriers at Bagamoyo, were dilatory and extortionate,
and it was only after a great deal of annoyance and delay, a
young man, who announced himself as Soor Hadji Palloo,
made his appearance, and informed Mr. Stanley that he had




646               IN MARCHING ORDER.
been requested to serve him, by Tarya Topan, a wealthy
merchant of Zanzibar. By the cooperation of this man, the
goods were finally all on the way to Unyanyembe. It had not
been thought wise for a large number of people, with so much
property, to set out in a single company. They had, therefore,
been separated into five distinct caravans, starting at different
times, so as to put some days between them, Mr. Stanley himself bringing up the rear of the last caravan, which moved
away from Bagamoyo on the 21st of March, exactly seventythree days after he had landed on the coast.
The expedition could hardly have been more thoroughly organized or furnished.  There were in all "three white men,
twenty-three soldiers, four supernumeraries, four chiefs, and one
hundred and fifty-three pagazis, twenty-seven donkeys, and one
cart; conveying cloth, beads, and wire, boat-fixings, tents,
cooking utensils, and dishes; medicine, powder, small shot,
musket balls, and metallic cartridges, instruments and small
necessaries, such as soap, sugar, tea, coffee, Liebig's extract of
meat, pemmican, candles, etc., making in all one hundred and
fifty-three loads. The weapons of defence which the expedition possessed consisted of one double-barrel breech-loading
gun, smooth bore; one American Winchester rifle, or sixteenshooter; one Henry rifle, also a sixteen-shooter; two Starr's
breech-loaders, one Jocelyn breech-loader, one elephant rifle,
carrying balls eight to the pound; two breech-loading revolvers, twventy-four muskets (flint locks), six six-barrelled pistols,
one battle-axe, two. swords, two daggers (Persian Kummers),
purchased by Mr. Stanley at Shiraz, one boar shear, two American axes, four pounds each, twenty-four hatchets, and twentyfour butcher knives.  Nothing had been stinted, everything
was provided. Nothing had been done hurriedly, yet everything had been purchased, manufactured, collected, and compounded with the utmost despatch, consistent with efficiency and
means." The success or failure depended, under God, on the
one man who rode behind the last caravan, "the vanguard,
the thinker, the will of the expedition."
We cannot record in detail the adventures of Mr. Stanley or
the incidents of his journey to Ujiji. The reader who has not
had occasion to notice carefully the routes of the different trav



nMR. STANLEY'S ROUTE.             647
ellers whose names are associated with the Lake Tanganyika,
may need to be cautioned against the mistake of confounding
Mr. Stanley's route with those of his predecessors. He did not
adopt the path of Burton and Speke, afterwards traversed by
Speke and Grant. Although the general features of the country
between Zanzibar and Ujiji were already comparatively well
known, Mr. Stanley cannot be thought of as simply marching
along a highway; and while, being sent on a special errand, he
had not the liberty of turning aside for the purpose of making
discoveries, he deserves an honorable place among those who
have rendered valuable service in unveiling the mysteries of
Africa.
He was in Africa to find Dr. Livingstone, and the faithfulness with which he resisted the temptation to select a route
which might draw to himself the attention of geographers
proves how Wisely Mr. Bennett had selected, in looking for a
man to be intrusted with so sacred a mission. Ujiji was, of
course, the point toward which he directed his steps, not that he
expected to find the object of his search there, but because he
had reason to hope that there he might find some clue to his
whereabouts. The contract with Soor iHadji Palloo provided for
the transportation of the expedition to Unyanyembe, which we
will remember is within twelve or thirteen days march of Ujiji.
"There were three routes from Bagamoyo to Unyanyemrbe,
either of which might have been taken; two of them had already
been described minutely by Messrs. Burton, Speke, and Grant;
the other, more northern and direct, was said to lead through
northern Uzaramo, Ukwere, Ukami, Udoe, Useguhha or Usegura, Usagara, Ugogo, and Unyanzi- " this route was adopted
by Mr. Stanley. The distance from Bagamoyo to Unyanyembe,
according to MVIr. Stanley, is by direct measurement about
three hundred and sixty miles, nearly six degrees of longitude,
but "the sinuosity of the path taken by caravans, which in
Africa follows the easier, less dangerous, and more available
courses, extends the distance to be traversed to over five hundred miles."
Mr. Stanley set out on this long journey full of enthusiasm,
which communicated itself to the whole party; and it was no
wonder that the residents of Bagamoyo looked on with curious




648            FIRST LESSON IN HUNTING.
admiration as the long line filed away up the "narrow lane,
across which the mimosa boughs wove a royal arch: in seeming
consciousness. The soldiers sang, the carriers shouted, and the
kirangozi fluttered the beautiful American flag as proudly as
he could have done if he had understood the significance of those
stars and stripes." Mr. Stanley was not a youth, but his heart
bounded with youthful joy, and he lifted up his face toward the
pure glowing sky and cried, " God be thanked! "
"The road was only a foot path," winding across the surface
of splendid soil, between gardens and fields, where abundance
of grain and vegetables rewarded the heedless labor of the
Wasawahili. These dwellers between the semi-civilization of
the coast and the absolute darkness of the interior are some of
them a little better dressed, and make a little more respectable
appearance than those farther west. But the blood of the barbarian is there, and the caravan had not proceeded many miles
before Mr. Stanley was surrounded by astonished crowds of
men and women who were absolutely innocent of clothing, all
gazing on the " Basungu " (white man), laughing and pointing
their fingers like children at the various objects which seemed
to them the strangest.
At the Kingani the gallant leader of the expedition had his
initiatory lesson shooting African game. This turbid stream is
famous for its hippopotami. It is just such a stream as these
huge creatures have special delight in. Its banks supported
the famous jungles of giant reeds and matted climbers, overshadowed by enormous forest trees, and threaded by creeks and
boggy sluices, and all across its bed huge masses of rock broke
the force of the current and formed eddies, counter-currents and
an infinite succession of shallows and deep places. While his
party were being conveyed across by the canoe men, Stanley set
about testing the accuracy and force of his guns. His Winchester
rifle amounted to nothing; one old fellow was tapped close to
the right ear, and only turned around as if to inquire into the
needless waste of powder and ball. This old gentleman received
the messenger from the smooth bore very differently; bellowing
with pain, and trembling in the agonies of death he reeled a
moment and fell down dead. The piteous groans of the amphibious monster touched a tender place of Mr. Stanley's heart,
and he turned away from the cruel sport.




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A BEAUTIFUL DISTRICT.                 651
The caravan had in the meantime crossed safely, men, bales,
donkeys and baggage, and the long line moved off over a much
more beautiful district than had yet been seen; first splendid
park-like lands, next through a grove of young ebony trees, where
guinea fowls and hartbeests were seen; then winding about
with all the characteristic eccentric curves of a goat path, up
and down a succession of land waves, crested by the dark green
foliage of the mango, and the scantier and lighter-colored leaves
of the enormous calabash. The depressions were filled with
jungle, while here and there were open glades, shadowed even
during noon by their groves of towering trees. As the strange
cavalcade passed along, every living thing seemed to be in consternation, "flocks of green pigeons, jays, ibis, turtle-doves,
golden pheasants, quails and moor-hens, with crows and hawks,
flew away in terror, while here and there a solitary pelican was
seen bearing off from the do iubtful scenes on stately wing, and
beautiful pairs of antelopes dashed away like fairies, and gravelooking monkeys with their bullet heads, white breasts and
long tails were hopping out of reach like Australian kangaroos."
Four miles from the river a halt was ordered at Kikoka, which
is on the western border of Mrima. This frontier city was only
a collection of straw huts erected in utter indifference of architectural style, surrounded by a pitiable apology for fields. The
people were indolent idlers who had settled there from Mrima
and Zanzibar. The next stage brought the expedition to Rosako,
the frontier village of Ukwere, perched on a little hillock surrounded by an impenetrable jungle of thorny acacia.
Mr. Stanley was now fairly in the midst of African scenes.
The wilderness was broken only by the little villages which
every now and then appeared peeping through the crevices of
their wonderful fortresses of acacia, and the people were fully
up to the average in genuine African characteristics.  And
thenceforward the journey was the monotonous succession of
delays, extortions, short marches, fevers, losses and anxieties
which distinguish all such expeditions.  The Wakwere were not
strong enough to be bold, but they were mean enough to be
annoying, and sustained their reputation for dishonesty with
evident pleasure. And they supported their claims to African
nativity by as varied devices and as characteristic developments




652               PICTURESQUE SCENERY.
as any tribe could boast of. The belles of the district, as is the
wont and undisputed right of their sex, were conspicuous by a
fondness for delight in brass wire wound in strands about the
wrists and ankles, and the various styles their insipid heads exhlibited and lengthy necklaces dangling about their black and
shining bodies, while their poor lords were obliged to be contented with dingy torn clouts and split ears.
Crossing the Ungerengeri, a beautiful river with a broad
fertile valley, on the western border of Ukwere, and passing
through the narrow belt of country which is all that is left to
the warlike remnants of the once powerful Wakami tribe, the
young traveller entered the territory of the Wadoe, a people full
of traditions, who have always defended themselves bravely
against the encroachments of neighbors and the invasions of
marauders. They are described as nobler looking than the
Wakwere or Wakami, with a lighter shade and more intelligent
cast of features. The region they inhabit might well have been
guarded by them with jealous courage. Speaking of it, Mr.
Stanley says: " It is in appearance amongst the most picturesque
countries between the coast and Unyanyembe. Great cones
shoot upward above the everlasting forests, tipped by the light
fleecy clouds, through which the warm glowing sun darts its
rays, bathing the whole in a quickening radiance which brings
out those globes of foliage that rise in tier after tier along the
hill-sides in rich and varied hues which would mock the most
ambitious painter's skill."  From the winding paths along the
crests of ridges the traveller may look down over forest-clad
slopes into the deep valleys, and across to other slopes as gayly
clad, and other ridges where deep concentric folds tempt him
to curious wanderings by their beauty and mystery and grandeur. But those lovely glades and queenly hills told saddest
stories of cruel deeds and wrongs irreparable. It is the old
story: envious evil eagerly invades with its polluting presence
those sacred spots where all is loveliest; infernal malice mars
with strange delight what is beautiful and pure. On man first,
creation's inner court, the author of evil fixed his revengeful
eye, and rested not until the cruel blight had fallen on all the
beauty and purity. And human depravity, like the malice of
Satan, has worn its darkest scowl amid the loveliest scenes, and




FORESTS AND BARBARIANS.                653
dyed the records of its infamy the deepest into those pages
of nature where the eye of God and the gaze of angels dwell
oftenest.
Attacked by the joint forces of the WVaseguhha from the
west and north, and the slave-traders of WVhinde and Sa'a dani
from the east, the Wadoe have seen their wives and little ones
carried into slavery a hundred times. And their courage has
not prevented the more powerful allies from cutting away district after district from their country. Their superiority was
their misfortune, the beauty and intelligence of their women
tempted the lustful Arabs, and the fertility of their soil tempted
their neighbors.' The Arabs found it easy to find allies in
these covetous neighbors for their slave-wars.
Leaving the Wadoe, Mr. Stanley journeyed on, through Useguhha, whose lords have come into their titles by their unholy
alliance with the traders.  Most conspicuous in this country
was the stronghold of Kisabengo, which had descended to his
daughter before Mr. Stanley's visit. The Waseguhha made
their appearance at every village armed with muskets which
had been the reward of their marauding services. With this
great advantage they were easily the scourge of that part of
Africa. Their country is sterile and mountainous, furnished
with gloomy forests and inaccessible passes, just such a region
as we would expect to foster the barbarous instincts of its rude
inhabitants. Journeying through this region the traveller may
congratulate himself on the strength of his escort, and he will
find use for his full stock of patience and forbearance. It was
pleasant to descend from these inhospitable hills into the district
of Usgara, among a people reflecting in their characters, like
those of Udoe, the gentler scenery which surrounds them.
The Wasagara were naturally a little suspicious, as the victims
of the Arabs and their associates are always, but they soon perceived that the white man was of different spirit, and then the
excellences of their character were readily revealed, and they
proved themselves a frank, amiable, and brave people. " The
Wasagara, male and female, tattoo the forehead, bosom, and
arms. Besides inserting the neck of a gourd in each ear, which
carries his little store of tobacco and lime, he carries quite a
number of most primitive ornaments around his neck, such as




654         t"A HANDSOME YOUNG SAVAGE."
two or three snowy cowrie shells, carved pieces of wood, a small
goats-horn, some medicine, consecrated by the medicine-man of
the tribe, a fund of white or red beads, two or three pierced
Sungomazzi egg-beads, or a string of copper, and sometimes small
brass chains, which they have purchased from Arab traders."
"A youthful Wasagara," continues Mr. Stanley, "with a
faint tinge of ochre embrowning the dull black hue of his face,
with four or five bright copper coins ranged over his forehead,
with a tiny gourd's neck in each ear, with a thousand ringlets,
well greased and ornamented with bits of brass, his head well
thrown back, his broad chest forward, with his muscular arms
and well-proportioned limbs, represents the beau-ideal of a
handsome young African savage."
Little better than their eastern neighbors are the Wagogo,
whose territory joins that of the Wasagara on the west. It
was the 25th day of May when the energetic young traveller
entered the dangerous land of Ugogo. He had led his caravan
two hundred and seventy-eight miles. He had passed through
the territories of the Wakomi, Wakwere, Wadoe, Wasegura,
Wasagara, and Wohehe. Had crossed the rivers Kingani,
Ungerengere, Little Makata, Great Makata, Rudewa, and Mukondokwa. He had discovered the sources of the Kingani,
the Wami, and the Mukondokwa rivers, and the Lake Ugomnbo.
Two horses and seventeen donkeys had died; various articles
had disappeared under the pressure of circumstances or somebody. Several pegazis had deserted, some had died, and Farquhar had been left behind sick. This was a new people, unlike
those among whom he had been, with new perils. A sterile
plateau, covered by the most clannish and covetous extortioners.
A powerful tribe, possessing remarkable physical and mental
development, not unlike the familiar negro type in general appearance, the Wagogo is at the same time a tribe of proud,
ferocious men, looking with covetous eye on the goods of every
traveller, and ready on the slightest occasion to proceed to any
lengths of violence. Among these people Mr. Stanley was subjected to the most unreasonable fines; and although he was
well furnished with rifles, it was very manifest that in their own
fastnesses, as they were, and swarming in such vast numbers,
peace was well bought at any price. The villages were all for



THE WAGOGO WARRIOR.                 655
tresses, the whole population was habitually equipped for extremities. Speaking of his experience among them, Mr. Stanley
says.:
"As we passed the numerous villages and perceived the
entire face of the country to be one vast grain-field, and counted
the people everywhere in groups, by scores gazing on the white
man, I could not wonder at their extortionate demands, for it
was evident that they had only to stretch out their hands and
take whatever the caravan possessed; and I began to think
better of them, because, knowing well their strength, they did
not use it without restraint."
The Wagogo warrior is always equipped; his weapons are
a bow, a sheaf of long, murderous-looking arrows, pointed,
pronged, and barbed; a couple of light, beautifully made assegois, a broad sword-looking spear, with a blade over two feet
long; a battle-axe and a knob club. He carries also a shield,
painted with designs in black and white; this is oval shaped,
and made of the rhinoceros, elephant, or bull hide. The villages are full of these warriors. It was weary, anxious marching, through jungles of gum and thorns, over rugged hills, and
across scorching plains, with such neighbors. Over and over
he was saved from serious trouble by the wisdom of "Speke's
faithfuls," who knew well the habits of the people. But villanous as they may be, the Wagogo believe in God or the " Sky
Spirit," whom they call Mulungu, and they address prayers to
him when their parents die. Mr. Stanley records a conversation
which he had with a Magogo trader, which may be interesting as
revealing something of the character and belief of the tribe:
S. "  iho do you suppose made your parents?"
T. "Why, Mulungu, white man!"
S. "Well, who made you?"
T. " If God made my father, God made me, didn't he?"
S. "Well, that's very good. Where do you suppose your
father is gone to, now that he is dead? "
T. "The dead die," said he, solemnly, "they are no more.
The sultan (chief) dies; he becomes nothing; he is then no
better than a dead dog, he is finished, his words are finished,
there are no more words from him. It is true," he added, seeing a smile on my face, "the sultan becomes nothing. He who
says other words is a liar, there!"




656             DEATH AND MATRIMONY.
S. "But then he is a very great man, is he not?"
T. "WVhile he lives, only; after death he goes into the pit,
and there is no more to be said of him than of any other man."
S. "How do you bury a Mgogo? "
T. "His legs are tied together; his right arm to his body,
and his left put under his head; he is then rolled on his left side
in the grave. His cloth he wore during his life is spread over
him; we put the earth over him, and put thorn bushes over it
to prevent the hyena from getting at him. A woman is put on
her left side, in a grave apart from the man."
S. "What do you do with a sultan (chief) when he is
dead? "
T. "We bury him, too, of course; only he is buried in the
middle of the village, and we build a house over it. Each time
they kill an ox they kill it before his grave. When the old
sultan dies the new one calls for an ox and kills it before his
grave, calling on Mulungu to witness that he is the rightful
sultan. He then distributes the meat in his father's namlle."
S. "Who succeeds the sultan?  Is he the eldest son? "
T. "Yes, if he has a son; if childless, the great chief next
to him in rank. The msagira is the next to the sultan, whose
business it is to hear the cause of complaint and convey it to the
sultan, who through the sultan dispenses justice. He receives
the honga, carries it to the sultan, and when the sultan has
taken what he wishes the rest goes to the msagira. The chiefs
are called maiiya-para; the msagira is the chief manya-para."
S. "How do the Wagogo marry? "
T. "Oh, they buy their women."
S. "'What is a woman worth?"
T. "A very poor man can buy his wife from her father for
two goats."
S. "How much has the sultan got to pay?"
T. "He has got to pay about one hundred goats, or so many
cows, or so many sheep and goats, to his bride's father. Of
course he is a chief. The sultan would not buy a common
woman. The father's consent is to be obtained, and the cattle
have to be given up. It takes many days to finish the talk
about it. All the family and the fiiends of the bride have to
talk about it before she leaves her father's house."




PENALTIES AND WITCHCRAFT.              657
S. "In cases of murder, what do you do to the man who
kills another?"
T. "The murderer has to pay fifty cows. If he is too poor
to pay, the sultan gives his permission to the murdered man's
friends or relatives to kill him. If they catch him they tie him
to a tree and throw spears at him, one at a time, first; they then
spring on him, cut his head off, then his arms and limbs and
scatter them about the country."
S. "How do you punish a thief?"
T. "If he is found stealing he is killed at once and nothing
is said about it. Is he not a thief?"
S. "But suppose you do not know who the thief is? "
T. "If a man is brought before us accused of stealing we
kill a chicken: if the entrails are white, he is innocent; if yellow,
he is guilty."
S. "Do you believe in witchcraft?"
T. "Of course we do, and punish the man with death who
bewitches cattle or stops rain."
There was very little temptation to loiter in Ugogo, and all
possible expedition was used in passing through it. Mr. Stanley was exceedingly anxious to reach Unyanyembe. He had
already picked up bits of information which encouraged him to
hope that he might soon be able to report the success of his
mission.  Early'in April, while on the banks of the Ungerengere, he had met one Salim bin Rasheed, who said, "I saw
the musungu (white man), who came up from the Nyassa a
long time ago, at Ujiji last year. He lived in the next tembe
to'me. He has a lonag white moustache and beard. He was
then about going to Marungu and Uniema."
On the 18th of May Sheikh Abdullah bin Wasif had called
at his camp at Mpwapwa and told him " the musungu has gone
to Manyuema, a month's march from Ujiji. He has met a bad
accident, having shot himself in the thigh while out hunting
buffaloes. When he gets well he will return to Ujiji."  Stimulated by these reports every energy was exerted, and on the
thirtieth day after entering Ugogo lMr. Stanley was in Unyanyembe, at the village of Kwihara.
He had been singularly successful thus far, and though he
had been pretty thoroughly initiated into the vicissitudes of




658              A " HOT BREAKFAST."
African travel, and had had some severe touches of the ills
which every stranger who penetrates these wilds must count
on, he stood in Unyanyembe in good spirits, and sanguine of
success. More than once, Providence seemed to have interposed
for him; not only had he been sustained in severe illness, and
saved friom  encounters with the natives, who so frequently
seemed to be set on an attack: there had been particular personal dangers; several times his men had threatened mutiny.
Once particularly, he was graciously preserved. The two white
men whom  he had employed had become exceedingly disagreeable; they were utterly worthless, but the presence of white
faces and English-speaking tongues was a great relief in the
midst of so much degradation.  Mr. Stanley continued the
kindest treatment; but on the morning of the 15th of May,
while troubles were in full force, when these two men were invited to breakfast as usual, it was evident, from their surly
greeting, that something was the matter. Stanley had overheard
them a short time before in loud and angry conversation, and
now their countenances and manner convinced him that their
rage was against him.
"' Breakfast was brought on, consisting of a roast quarter of
goat, stewed liver, sweet potatoes, hot pancakes, and coffee."
And turning to Shaw, Mr. Stanley requested him to carve and
help Farquhar. This seemed to be the signal for a rupture,
and Shaw replied, in the most insulting manner, "What dog's
meat is this? "
"What do you mean?" asked Stanley. Whereupon Shaw
broke out in a rage of abuse. He would hear no remonstrance,
he was absolutely insensible to all reason, and persisted in his
rudeness until Mr. Stanley knocked him down. When he arose
he demanded a discharge from the company, and Stanley immediately ordered his things all to be put down outside of the
camp, and told him to go. It would have been better if Stanley had not revoked this decision; but that very night Shaw
sent in such humble messages that he was allowed to return.
That little bit of clemency came near being the ruin of the
expedition.
The man came back with expressions of deep repentance, assuring Stanley that he should never have occasion to find fault




SHOOTING IN SLEEP (?)              659
with him again, and was received with absolute confidence.
That very night, as Mr. Stanley was about falling asleep, he
heard a shot, and a bullet tore through his tent, only a few
inches above his body. Snatching up his revolvers he rushed
out of the tent, and asked the men around the watch-fires, "Who
shot?" They had all jumped up, startled by the report.
"Who fired that gun?"  "Bana Mdogo" (little master),
said one of the men. This was the title by which Shaw was
known. Lighting a candle, Stanley walked with it to Shaw's
tent, and after calling him several times succeeded in getting
a response. Faining to be half asleep, Shaw said, "Eh-eh,
fire, me fire did you say? I've been asleep." But his gun was
lying by him. Stanley put his hand on it, the barrel was still
warm, and the mark of fresh-burnt powder was on his hand.
The man then tried to excuse himself by saying that he had
been dreaming, and thought that he was shooting a robber.
There could be no doubt in Mr. Stanley's mind that this was a
deliberate attempt to murder him. Looking back over the way
he had been led, he felt constrained to thank God for his
goodness; and is it not a notable coincidence that, at almost the
same hour in which the Banian slaves were plotting for the
destruction of Dr. Livingstone, a similar peril should have
been impending the life of Mr. Stanley? —and both were
spared. Surely there can be no doubt that the same watchful
eye was over them both, and that the same Providence which
revealed the wicked purposes of the Banians disappointed the
murderous intention of the white man.




CHAPTER XXXI.
UNYANYEMBE.
Traditions of Unyamwezi-The Appearance of the Country-The Soil-" Fairy
Mounts "-Villages-The Wanyamwezi - Sons of Ham - Lovers of Mlusic
-Maiden Fondness for Display - Tea - Parties - Matronly Gossip — The
Club-Rooms-Masculine Vanity-Home Life in Unyamwezi-The HousesThe Furniture - Dining Hall-" Sweet Earth "-Popular Prejudices-Food
of Wanyamwezi — Family Affection - Woman's Rights - Love and LawWanyamwezi, their Prominence-Great Travellers-The " Carriers" of East
Africa —Varying Character-Unyanyembe Central Province-Arab Settlement
-Mr. Stanley's Reception-Sayd bin Salim-Stanley's House —Munificent
Hospitality-Visitors from Tabora-Tabora Village-Arab Luxury-Prominent Arabs of Tabora-Mr. Stanley Visits Tabora-The Council of WarMirambo-An Unhappy Alliance-Sickness-Climate of Unyanyembe-The
Battle Array-Disaster and Retreat-Glad to Quit-Tables Turned-The
"Flying Caravan "-A Weeping Lover-On the March Again-Mangara —
Grand Reception of Chiefs-A Jolly Tinme-The Ammonia Bottle UncorkedAn Impression Made —Splendid Game-Park-Two Days' Hunting-Trouble in
Camp-A Revolt-A Dreadful Plot-The Pledge-Mrera.
IT may interest the curious to examine the evidences oi the
grandeur of Unyamwezi in the days that traditions tell of,
when the various provinces were united under one great chieftain. But the modern traveller, intent on mysteries concealed
in remoter regions, or reaching  eagerly forward under the
urgent pressure of some special mission, has hardly time for
patient investigation of the thousand hints from which all conclusions concerning early African history must be drawn.  It
seems more important that the country be known as it is, before
we become absorbed in inquiry about,what it has been.  The
Unyamwezi of our time comprises a number of petty provinces,
each acknowledging its own tyrant, whose authority is confined
within a circumference of a few miles.  The country is described
as lying between the barren, red, glaring regions of Ugogo and
the dark, monotonous verdure of the more western provinces,
like a garden.
Lines of low conical and tabular hills wind about irregularly
660




APPEARANCE OF UNYAMNWEZI.               661
on the general undulation.  There are no mountains.  "The
superjacent stratum is clay, overlying the sandstone, based upon
various granites, which in some places\crop out, picturesquely
disposed in blocks and boulders and( huge domes and lumpy
masses; ironstone is met with at a depth varying from five to
twelve feet, and bits of coarse ore have been found in tJnyanyembe by digging not more than four feet in a chance spot.
During the rains the grass conceals the soil, but in the dry seasons the land is gray, lighted up by golden stubbles, and dotted
with wind-distorted trees, shallow swamps of emerald grass, and
wide streets of dark mud. Dwarfed stumps and charred' black
jacks' deform the fields, which are sometimes ditched or hedged
in, whilst a thin forest of parachute-shaped thorns diversifies the
waves of rolling land and earth hills, spotted with sunburnt
stone. The reclaimed tracts and clearings are divided from one
another by strips of primeval jungle, varying from two to
twelve miles in length, and, as in other parts of Africa, the
country is dotted with'fairy mounts'-dwarf mounds-the
ancient sites of trees now crumbled to dust, and the debris of
insect architecture. Villages, the glory of all African tribes,
are seen at short intervals rising only a little above their impervious walls of lustrous green milk-bush, with its coral-shaped
arms, variegating the well-hoed plains; whilst in the pasture
lands herds of many-colored cattle, plump, round-barrelled and
high-humped, like Indian breeds, and mingled flocks of goats.
and sheep, dispersed over the landscape, suggest ideas of barbarous comfort and plenty."
The proprietors of this soil are the typical race in this portion of central Africa; and their comparative industry and
commercial activity have secured them a conspicuous superiority
among the tribes.
They are generally splendid specimens of the genus homo, so
far as physical proportions make it up; tall and manly-looking,
and endowed with remarkable strength and powers of endurance. But they are genuine sons of Ham notwithstanding;
the deep brown hue and negroid features are unquestionable,
even if they were unsustained by the characteristic effluvium,
which no ablutions can prevent, and if their cranial coverings
were less conspicuous. Like all negroes they are great lovers
34




662              FONDNESS FOR DISPLAY.
of music, and among them there are artists who, in spite of the
barbarous monotony of their strains, furnish real amusement.
Many of these individuals are great improvisators, and delight
to weave the latest political news or personal scandal into their
merry songs.
The national love of ornament also prevails in all its extravagance. ".From  the hour that a maiden begins to call for
mamma," says Mr. Stanley, "her ornaments are her constant
solicitude. She loves to look at the pretty wristlets of red,
yellow, white, and green beads which rest upon her dark skin
in such contrast; she loves to twine her fingers through the
lengthy necklaces of variegated beads, or to play with the bead
belt that encompasses her waist; she even sets them in her hair
and loves to be told that they become her (as what maiden does
not?) It is a pleasure with her to possess a spiral wire cincture even though she possesses no garment to be supported by
it. She awaits with impatience the day when she can be married, and have a cloth to fold around her body-until she can
have authority to dispose of her fowls for the cheap tinsel sold
by Arab merchants."  The grave matrons, too, display dispositions quite as comprehensible to the ladies of more enlightened
lands as is this craving of the maidens for wealth of ornament.
Perhaps there is nothing more matronly than the propensity
which has its fullest indulgence in those evening gatherings of
world-wide reputation as tea-parties, and, unquestionably, the
benevolent champions of female contentment will hail with delight the testimony of an eye-witness, that he had "never beheld
anything so approaching to happiness and perfect contentment
as the faces of the old and young women of Unyamwezi as they
gathered at sunset from the various houses to sit and chat together about the events of the day or those trite subjects of
universal interest in such circles. It is a scene for the artist.
Each female has her short stool and her growing daughter by
her side, who, while her mother chats and smokes with radiant
face, employs her nimble hands in converting her parent's woolly
locks into a series of plaits and ringlets. The elder females
particularly, squatted in a circle, begin to recite their experiences,
chattering away like swallows, or like ladies elsewhere: one
tells how her. cow has stopped giving milk; another how well




EVENING PARTIES.                  663
she has sold her milk to the white man; another of what happened in the field while she was hoeing; another how her master has not yet returned from the capital, whither he has gone
to sell grain." He does not say that they invade the sacredness
of their neighbor's affairs, or retail magnified stories of another's
peccadilloes; possibly he wrote charitably, possibly he was imperfectly informed, possibly those things were said in an undertone, and possibly slander is an accomplishment of civilization;
all things are possible.
But the weaker sex cannot boast a monopoly of vanity or
social gossip in Unyamwezi any more than they can elsewhere.
The most elaborate impersonation of civilized foppishness, whose
unctuous locks and waxened labial down have taxed the skill
of masters in the tonsorial art, would grind his teeth in envy at
the sight of one of those tall dusky odoriferous gallants of Unyamnwezi tossing his proud head, adorned with a fringe of jetty
woolly ringlets. And every village has its public room which
corresponds to the popular club-rooms of nearer regions, a sort
of gentlemen's "gossip institute," where "things in general"
are discussed with startling acumen, as men are wont to discuss
"things in general" in civilized communities.  During idle
times, and it is seldom there are busy times, they smoke (what
would a club-room be without smoke?) and sit on their heelsthey have not learned the art of putting them above their heads
yet: civilization will modify their use of these members-they
sit on their heels now and smoke in idle times, and discuss the
same matters perhaps as have occupied their wives and daughters.' While they talk one sharpens his spear-head, another
makes an axe-helve, or decorates his sword. They talk politics,
men would die if they didn't, and the daily news: that too is
manly. But the witness does not hint that they so far forget
themselves as to descant on the improprieties of Mrs. this, or
Miss that, or chuckle over the misfortunes of Neighbor somebody. Civilization seems to have a monopoly of that sort of
thing.
The home life of these people is to be found in the tembe.
Among the poorer tribes this dwelling is only a stack of straw,
but the better sort of tembe has large projecting eaves supported
by uprights. "Having no limestone, the people ornament the




0064           HOME LIFE IN UNYAMWEZI.
inner and outer walls of these abodes with long lines of ovals,
formed by pressing the tips of the fingers, after dipping them
into ashes and water for whitewash, and into red clay or black
mud for variety of color. With this primitive material they
sometimes, also, attempt rude imitations of nature-of human
beings and serpents. Rude carving is also attempted on the
massive posts at the entrance of the villages. Within, the
principal article, which by its remarkable dimensions attracts
attention, is the bedstead. This essential of family life consists
of peeled tree-branches, supported by forked sticks, provided
with a bedding of mats and cowhide, and occupies the greater
portion'of the room. There is a triangle of clay cones forming
a hearth; this is generally placed nearly opposite the door. Of
other things, there are corn-bins, gourds, band-boxes, earthen
pots, huge ladles, pipes, grass mats, grinding-stones, and hanging on a branching tree-trunk, standing in one corner, may be
seen the arms of the men."
The family dining-hall, so pleasantly associated with the
visions which float around the traveller, is not an institution of
Unyamwezi. There is hardly a better index of social advancement than is furnished in the manner of eating. In Unyamwezi the males and females do not eat together; even the boys
disdain to be seen sitting at meat with their mothers. The
men generally take their food in their wanza, or " club-room."
They are better satisfied if they have two meals a day, but they
are frequently necessitated to be content with one, and employ
the interim between meals, or between sleep and food, in chewing tobacco when they have it, and in the event of its failure
resorting to clay for the necessary exercise of their jaws. For
this purpose they select the clay of ant-hills, which they call
"sweet earth."  This clay-chewing, indeed, is a custom quite
generally prevalent on both coasts of Africa. The clay quid
" takes the place of the mastic of Chios, the kat of Yemen, the
betel and toasted grain of India and the farther East, and the
ashes of the Somali country."
As we might expect, the Wanyamwezi are not free from those
prejudices in the matter of food which are so generally discovered among savages; but their prejudice has not been reduced to a system, as amongst the tribes of central Africa.




THE FOOD IN UNYAMWEZI.                665
Before their closer intercourse with the Arabs they kept poultry,
but like the Gallas and the Somali, who look on the fowl as a
kind of vulture, they would not eat it. Even in the present
day they retain their prejudice for eggs. Some will devour
animals that have died of disease, and carrion, the flesh of lions
and leopards, elephants and rhlnoceroses, asses, wild cats and
rats, beetles and white ants; while others refuse to touch mutton or clean water-fowl, declaring it is not their custom. They
seldom eat meat; their ordinary diet consists of the messes
common in central Africa, a sort of porridge made from flour
of matama-the IHolcus sorghum, or Arabic dourra. This is
accompanied with leaves of the garden plants, such as the bean
and cucumber, boiled and mashed up. When this humble meal
is cooked the gentlemen (?) assemble around the pot and proceed to the delightful duty of cramming themselves, in which
exercise the only implement employed is nature's ladle. In the
season for it, these mush-fed children luxuriate on honey and
sour milk, but no matter what they eat or how much, the
Wanyamwezi never own repletion until they have "sat on
pombe" or, in other words, until they are pretty thoroughly
intoxicated.
There is very little community of interest, and apparently
a great lack of family affection in these tribes. The husband
when returning from the coast laden with cloth will refuse a
single shukkah to his wife, and the wife succeeding to an inheritance will abandon her husband to starvation. The man
takes charge of the cattle, sheep, goats, and poultry; the woman
has control of the vegetables and grain. It seems a little remarkable we observe in savage life, in rude realization, so many
of the pet projects of certain noisy would-be leaders of an advanced civilization. It is hardly a question whether it is progress or retrogression that must be relied on to restore the
balance between the sexes and grant to woman the disenthralment in which she may call what is hers, her own. It is a
pity that there are so many who are forward to set aside the
assertion that dependence is the charm of woman and her title
to all things. It is to be lamented that so much is said about
the distinctive rights and obligations of the sexes. It ought to
be remembered that the true happiness of man and woman is




666                  LOVE AND LAW.
in their identity, and it should not be forgotten that there is
nothing that hinders a coalescence of hearts more effectually
than a clamorous assertion of rights. The world will rue the
day which adopts a code defining the relative dignity of man
and woman. Love is not unlawful, but legislation is the death
of it. There are rights in love, but no knowledge of them.
The spontaneity of all its offerings and concessions is their
beauty and blissfulness. Distinctions patronize discord; where
there are boundaries there are conflicts; there cannot be a line
drawn between man and woman which does not sever the magic
bond of their union. Wives and mothers and daughters and
sisters cannot afford to have their guardianship transferred from
love to law. The sun of human happiness will have passed its
meridian, and a polished barbarism, that dotage of civilization,
will be coming on, when human folly allows checks and balances
to take the place of free-acting love in the relations of husband
and wife. We must not forget that the peculiar glory of civilization is in that beautiful and joyous identity of the sexes
which finds its prettiest type in the vine-entwined oak.
The Wanyamwezi have won for themselves quite a reputation
by their commercial industry. They are the professional porters of East Africa. From days immemorial they have monopolized the carrying business. They are everything to the traveller,
they take the place of camels, horses, mules, and asses. They
are indispensable to the traders and travellers. They are generally found in the various coast villages waiting to be hired for
long journeys. "These are the people whom we have seen
among the hills of Itawa, in the forests of Lunda, on the banks
of the Lualaba, in the wilds of Manyuema, on the banks of all
the lakes-who are found in the mountains of Karangwah, on
the plains of Uvinza, on the barren plateau of Ugogo, in the
park lands of Ukonongo, in the swamps of Useguhha, in the
defiles of Usegara, in the wilderness of Ubena, among the pastoral tribes of the Watuta, trudging along the banks of the
Refugi, and in slave-trading Kilwa, everywhere; weighted with
the bales of Zanzibar, containing cottons and domestics from
Massachusetts, calicoes from  England, prints from  Muscat,
cloths from Cutch, beads from Germany, and brass wire from
Great Britain. In caravans they are docile and tractable, on




UNYANYEMBE PROVINCE.                667
trading expeditions of their own they are keen and clever; in
their villages they are a merry-making set. As Ruga Ruga
or forest men, the Wanyamwezi are unscrupulous and bold; in
Ukonongo and Ukawendi they are hunters; in Usukuma they
are drovers and iron-smelters; in Lunda they are energetic
searchers for ivory; on the coast they are a wondering, awestruck people."
These are the people in whose middle province Mr. Stanley
took up his quarters the 21st of June, 1871. "Unyanyembe
is the great Bandari or meeting-place of merchants, and point
of departure for caravans, which thence radiate into the interior
of central intertropical Africa. Here the Arab merchant from
Zanzibar meets his compatriot returning from the Tanganyika
lake and from Uruwwa. Northwards, well-travelled lines diverge to the Nyanza lake, and the powerful kingdoms of Karagwah, Uganda, and Unyoro; from the south, Urori and Ubena,
Usanga and Usenga, send their ivory and slaves; and from the
southwest, the Rukwa Water, K'hokoro, Ufipa, and Marungu
must barter their valuables for cotton, wires, and beads."
" This province was colonized," according to Burton,'about
1852, when the Arabs, who had been settled some years in a
district of Usukuma, having become involved in one of the
native wars were compelled to change their home. Snay bin
Amir and Musa Mzuri, the Indian, settled at Kazeh, then a
desert; built houses, sunk wells, and converted it into a populous place."
It is well to remark, that the reader may not be confused by
the names which seem to be used interchangeably with Unyanyembe, that this district is not properly a town, but a district
containing a number of villages all very near each other, where
the Arabs have their great tembe, surrounded by the humbler
abodes of their servants and dependents, and lead lives of
comfort and even splendor, and take great pride in welcoming
travellers with astonishing display. When Mr. Stanley came
on the ground he was received with great cordiality by Sayd
bin Salim, whom favoring fortune had favored, since the time of
Burton and Speke's visit, from the station of servant to wealth
and prominence. Sayd bin Salim had his spacious tembe in
-Kwikuru, the capital village of the province.




668                 STANLEY'S HOUSE.
As the visitor walked beside the governor toward Kwikuru he
"received a noiseless ovation." The Wanyamwezi pagazi were
out by hundreds, and the warriors of old Mkasiwa hovered
about their chief; the naked, dusky children standing between
their parents' legs, even infants slung over their mothers' backs,
all paid the tribute due to his color in one grand concentrated
stare. Having been hospitably refreshed with a breakfast which
went as far as any breakfast could have done towards making
him forget that he was in the wilds of Africa, and quite a conversation with the lordly Sayd, he was escorted by that dignitary to Kwihara, where his house had been provided. Gathered
about the door of the tembe he found the men of his expedition.
They had stacked their bales, and piled their boxes, and the
members of the different caravans were using their tongues with
marvellous energy, exchanging with each other the incidents of
their journey.
Some delay is always expected at Unyanyembe, and porters,
whether hired upon the coast or on Tanganyika lake, are accustomed to disperse there, and a fresh gang must be collected.
Mr. Stanley's first duty, therefore, was to receive the reports of
the leaders of his caravans, and bestow such rewards or make
such payments as occasion required, and the crowd scattered
and left him with his little band of special followers to take
possession of his new quarters, which he declares was a "most
comfortable place." There were quarters for his men and for
himself; sitting-room, bed-room, bath-room, cook-house, storehouse, prison, etc., etc. He had hardly accomplished the disposition of his goods in spaces designed for them, and paid off
his carriers, and begun to realize that he might under proper
circumstances have an appetite, when in came several slaves in
succession, " bearing trays, full of good things from the Arabs:
first, an enormous dish of rice, with a bowlfiul of curried chicken;
another with a dozen huge wheaten cakes, another with a plateful of smoking hot crullers, another with papaws, another with
pomegranates and lemons; after these came men driving five
fat hump-backed oxen, eight sheep, and ten goats, and another
man came with a dozen chickens and a dozen fresh eggs."  No
wonder he was taken by storm, with such real, practical, noble
courtesy, such munificent hospitality; and we are prepared to




THE ARABS OF TABORA.                 669
accredit his assurance, that his people were as much delighted
as himself at the prodigal plenitude visible on his table, and in
his yard. A slaughtered ox and a feast wound up the ceremony
of settlement, and all hands turned in to sweeter rest than they
had known for many days.
The next day the Arab magnates from Tabora came on a
formal visit. Tabora is the place mentioned by Captain Burton
as Kazeh, the first Arab settlement in Unyanyembe. It is the
principal settlement in the country. "It contains," according
to Mr. Stanley's estimate, " over a thousand huts and tembes,
and one may safely estimate the population, Arabs, Wangwana
and natives, at five thousand people." Between Tabora and
Kwihara, where Mr. Stanley had his quarters, rise two rugged
hill-ridges, separated from each other by a low saddle, over the
top of which Tabora is always visible from Kwihara.
It is astonishing what luxury is conveyed into the heart of
Africa by these Arab merchant princes. The fertile plain about
their villages, kept in the highest state of cultivation, yields
marvellous abundance and endless variety of vegetables, and
supports vast herds of cattle, and sheep and goats innumerable;
while just about the tembes the orange, lemon, papaws and
mangoes may be seen thriving finely. Add to these the tea,
coffee, sugar, spices, jellies, curries, wine, brandy, biscuits, sardines, salmon, and such fine cloths as they need for their own
use, brought from the coast every year by their slaves; associate
these with a wealth of Persian carpets, most luxurious bedding,
complete services of silver for tea and coffee, with magnificently
carved dishes of tinned copper and brass lavers; and we have a
catalogue out of which our imagination produces pictures of
luxury that, amid the wildness and rudeness of that barbarous
land, seem more like the magician's work than tangible realities,
which await the worn-out traveller across six hundred miles of
plains and mountains and rivers and swamps, where a succession
of naked, staring, menacing savages throng the path in wonder
at a white face.
The representatives of this splendid living, who had called to
pay their respects to Mr. Stanley, were the donors of the gifts
which had surprised him on the day before, and had they been
less prepossessing than they were, their kindness would have




670                 THE VWAR-CLOUD.
bound him to think them pleasant gentlemen; but they were a
fine, handsome body of men. Conspicuous among them was
" Sayd bin Salim, the governor of the colony, Sheikh bin Nasib,
his Highness of Zanzibar's consul at Karangwa; then Kamis
bin Abdullah, and young Amram bin Mussoud; handsome and
courageous Soud, the son of Sayd bin Majid; then Thani bin
Abdullah; next Mussoud bin Abdullah and his cousin, Abdullah
bin Mussoud; then old Suliman Dowa Sayd bin Sayf and the old
IHetman of Tabora-Sultan bin Ali."'  When all the formalities
of greeting and the congratulations and protestations and invitations were over, these distinguished models of Arab etiquette
departed, carrying an engagement with PMr. Stanley for his
presence with them three days from date.
The kindness of these wealthy visitors had paved the way,
intentionally or otherwise, for involving the Herald Expedition
in a way which threatened it with great disaster. When MIr.
Stanley repaired to Tabora, according to his engagement, he
found himself just in time to be present at a grave council of
war, in which he was invited to take a seat with Selim, his Arab
interpreter, by his side.
The trouble was with a chief called Mirambo, who it seems
had for several years been in a state of chronic discontent with
the policies of the neighboring chiefs. Formerly a pagazi for
an Arab, he had now assumed regal power, with the usual knack
of unconscionable rascals who care not by what means they step
into authority. When the chief of Uyoweh died, this bold man,
who was at the head of a gang of robbers infesting the forests
of Wilyankuru, suddenly entered Uyoweh and constituted himself lord paramount by force, and by a few feats of enterprise
which he performed to the enrichment of those who recognized
his authority, soon established himself firmly in his position.
From this beginning he had carried destructive war over three
degrees of latitude, and at length conceiving a grievance against
Mkasiwa, chief of the Wanyamwezi, demanded of the Arabs
that they should sustain him against their ally. This they refused to do, and Mirambo had in resentment resolved that no
Arab caravan should pass through his country to Ujiji; and not
satisfied with this menace of the foreigners, had now proclaimed
open war on them and the Wanyamwezi together. We will not




THE CLIMATE OF UNYANYEMBE.               671
detain the reader with the proceedings of the council: it is enough
that it was determined to march against this impertinent chief
and annihilate him at once. And Mr. Stanley, partly because
he saw no other way of reaching Ujiji and relieving Dr. Livingstone, and partly because he felt under obligation to assist those
who had shown him such attentions, consented to join them in
the enterprise.
In the interval of the preparations for this war, Mr. Stanley
was attacked by that subtle enemy of the white man, which
must be confronted in every part of Africa. The fever raged,
and in the days of delirium he traversed again the varied scenes
of the eventful past. He had come to Unyanyembe about the
beginning of summer. It is then that the east wind, the only
wind so ill that it blows nobody any good in any land, comes
sweeping over the country, " refrigerated by the damp alluvial
valleys of the first region, and the tree-clad peaks and swampy
plains of Usagara, with a freezing cold in an atmosphere properly
tepid. These unnatural combinations of extremes, causing sudden
chills when the skin perspires, bring on inevitable disease. These
gales are most violent in the earlier part of the season, immediately after the cessation of the rains, and as the summer advances the transition diseases disappear and the climate becomes
more agreeable." Mr. Stanley arrived just in the trying period;
though suffering severely, the torture was of short duration, and
he tells us that on the tenth day after his first illness he was in
good trim again. Then Shaw was down, next Selirn, and it
was the 28th of July before they were sufficiently recovered to
start on such an enterprise as lay before him.
Although contemplating an engagement with Mirambo, he
was so confident that the allied forces would vanquish that chief
easily that he determined to go as far as his border, prepared to
continue his journey to Ujiji without returning to Unyanyembe.
Accordingly he left Unyanyembe on the 29th with fifty men,
loaded with bales, beads and wire. At Mfuto, after a three
days' march, he joined the Arab forces, having stored his goods.
Thlie army, mustering in all two thousand two hundred and fifty
men, advanced upon the stronghold of the enemy. Then follows a story of failure, of retreat, of shameful cowardice on the
part of those most deeply interested, and a few days later he was




672               THE TABLES TURNED.
in Unyanyembe again, heartily disgusted with the Arab method
of warfare and their ideas of duty to an ally; with the scene
before him of Mirambo's army surrounding Tabora.
Feeling himself fully absolved from all obligations to his Arab
neighbors, for whom he had nearly sacrificed his life and the
expedition, Mr. Stanley now set about collecting a new set of
carriers, determined to start for Ujiji by a route which promised
freedom from the opposition of Mirambo, though much more
indirect than the one he would have preferred to take. It was
no easy matter to secure such a number of men as he needed
under the circumstances. But the delay was unendurable, while
he feared that the great and good man whom he had been sent
out to find and help might be suffering at Ujiji; therefore he
decided to leave the greater portion of his goods tinder a guard
and set out with a "flying caravan" by the southern route
through northern Ukonongo and Ukawendi.  Conspicuous
among those whom he mustered for this march were two men
of giant proportions, named Asmani and Mabruki, who will play
a conspicuous part as we shall see.
But gathering a force is not all of getting away from such
quarters as Unyanyembe. There are always little domestic ties
formed by the sable attendants of a traveller in such quarters
which are not friendly to prompt departures. When on the
morning of the 20th of September the caravan was mustered
outside of the tembe, under flags and streamers so proudly unfurled, and all the loads were ready to be lifted, one of the principal members of the expedition was missing. Where was
Bombay?  Where should he be-where would one expect to
find such a gallant at such a time?  "Bombay was found
weeping in the arms of his Delilah."
We cannot require the reader, whose real concern is to know
how and when and where this expedition succeeded in bringing
consolation and timely aid to Dr. Livingstone, to follow him with
the details of this journey of so much interest in the life of Mr.
Stanley. The days were filll of petty complaints from a few
grumblers, and almost every night desertions occurred.  Shaw
was more trouble than a dozen babies, and ultimately succeeded
in provoking his employer to send hinm back to Unyanvembe.
Day after day were the same experiences; forest after forest was




ROYAL VISITORS ENTERTAINED.             673
passed; the villagers were all cautious; only news of war, war!
filled the country. The terror of Mirambo was on the whole
region. I(asegera was passed just as a welcome was being given
to a party returning from the coast. The great village of
Ugunda, from whose formidable stockade even the powerful
Mirambo had withdrawn his forces in despair of taking it, was
left behind them. On the 2d of October they entered the cultivated fields of M[anyara. made conspicuous in the story by a
scene such as can never fade from the memory of a man who has
any eye for the ridiculous. The authorities of this village refused
admission to the travellers, and declined positively to allow their
people to sell them any food. On the 3d, Stanley continued to
ply the chief with offered presents, having well learned already
that no African chief is proof against such beautiful things as the
white man can offer. When terms were made, and the precious
beans and rice and matama and Indian corn began to flow into his
camp, Mr. Stanley arranged to receive the chiefs. His Persian
carpet and bear skin were spread out, and a bran new piece of
crimson cloth covered his bed. -  e received the chief and his
associate chieftains at the gate of his camp and escorted them
with all dignity into the gaudy-looking tent, and invited them
to seat themselves.
The first thing that these noble men did was to scrutinize the
owner of that pavilion intently, his face, his clothes, his entire
person, and thereupon burst into uncontrollable laughter, accompanied with repeated snapping of the fingers. Everything in
the tent was examined with the same intent curiosity; the sixteen-shooter particularly elicited a thousand flattering observations, and the tiny revolvers seemed to them of superhuman
workmanship. As they passed from object to object their
enthusiasm increased, and in the wildness of their delight they
seized.each other's index fingers and screwed and pulled as if
they would inevitably dislocate those innocent members. When
the medicine chest was produced, the climax of their admiration
seemed to be reached. They tasted the brandy; next came a
bottle of concentrated ammonia, whose use it was explained was
for snake-bites and headaches. The chief immediately complained that he had headache and must have some. Telling
him to close his eyes, Mr. Stanley suddenly uncorked the bottle




674                 QUICK MEDICINE.
and presented it to his majesty's nose; the effect, he tells us, was
magical: he fell back as if he was shot, and such contortions as
his features underwent are indescribable. The chieftains roared
with laughter, and clapped their hands and pinched each other
and snapped their fingers in a frenzy of merriment, while the
great chief, slowly recovering himself, great tears rolling down
his cheeks and his face quivering with laughter, slowly uttered
the word, "Kali "-hot, strong or quick medicine. The morning passed and the visitors left delighted and fully impressed
with the idea of the white man's greatness, which they expressed
most vehemently, saying, "Oh, these white men know everything, the Arabs are dirt compared to them."
They had now come into the real game country of Unyamwezi. They had barely left the waving corn-fields of Manyara
when they came in sight of a herd of noble zebra. As they
advanced they beheld herds of buffalo, zebra, giraffe and antelope. They were on the banks of the Gombe. The whole
country was one magnificent park, and it was impossible to resist the temptation to spend a few days in hunting. And when
the days admonished him of the importance of continuing the
journey, so thoroughly in love with the beautifill scenes and
the abundance of meat had his men become that his order
to march was mlet by open rebellion. They delegated Bombay
to beg that they might stay one day longer. Bombay was well
scolded for bringing such a message, after two days of rest and
so much food. Bombay moved away in a manifestly sulky
mood, and an expression which seemed to say, "Well, get them
to move yourself, you wicked, hard man; I shall not help you."
That which followed we give in Mr. Stanley's words: " Notwithstanding their unwillingness, at the sound of the horn the men
turned to their bales and marched of, but in deep, sullen silence."
Stanley remained behind to drive the stragglers on. In about
half an hour he saw the caravan come to a dead halt, the bales
thrown down and the men, engaged in angry conversation and
gesticulation, standing about in groups. There was manifestly
serious work on hand, and taking his double-barrel gun from
Selim's shoulder he selected a dozen charges of buckshot, and
slipping two of them into the barrels and adjusting his revolvers
for handy work, he walked forward towards the angry men.




A PLOT DISCOVERED.                 675
He noticed them seize their guns as he approached, and when
within about thirty yards of the groups he discovered the heads
of two men appear above an ant-hill on his left with their guns
carelessly pointed toward the road. Instantly he halted, and
taking deliberate aim at them, threatened to blow their heads
off if they did not come forward to talk to him. These two men
were the gigantic Asmani and his sworn companion Mabruki,
who the reader will remember were among the men obtained at
Unyanyembe. They were afraid not to obey such an order, so
they came; but keeping his eye on Asmani, Stanley saw him
moving his fingers to the trigger of his gun and bringing his
gun to a " ready," and was obliged again to threaten him with
instant death if he did not put his gun down. Asmani then
came on in a sidelong way, with a smirking smile on his face
and the lurid light of murder in his eye, as plainly as ever such
a light shone in the eye of a villain. Meantime Mabruki sneaked
to his rear, deliberately putting powder in the pan of his musket;
but wheeling just in time, Mr. Stanley planted the muzzle of his
own gun within two feet of the wicked rascal's face, and commanded him to drop his piece instantly. There could be no
hesitation: Mabruki saw that and let it fall, and instantly went
reeling back under a vigorous blow in the breast from the muzzle
of that which had been levelled in his face, and left the single
white man to confront Asmani again. Asmani was of a more
stubborn spirit, and in the face of Stanley's gun began lifting
his gun to his shoulder. It would have been his last act, but
just at the moment when Stanley's finger was coming down on
the trigger of his gun a form appeared behind Asmani, and a
strong hand swept his gun aside with an impatient, nervous
movement, and the voice of Mabruki Speke was heard in horrorstricken accents, saying, " Man, how dare you point your gun
at the master! "  Mabruki Speke then threw himself at the feet
of his master and endeavored to kiss them, and entreated his
forgiveness. " It is all over now," he said; " there will be no
more quarrelling; they would all go to Tanganyika now, without any more noise and inshallah! "  Said he, "We shall find
the old musungu at Ujiji." Then turning to the men he said,
"Men, freemen, shall we not? Shall we not go to Tanganyika
without any more trouble?  Tell the master with one voice."




676              " NO OTHER WORDS.?'
"Ay, Wallah! ay, WVallah! bana Yango! hamuna manneno
mgini "-which literally translated is, "Yes, by God! yes, by
God! my master!"  "There are no other words," said each
man in turn. All the men were pardoned except Bombay and
Ambari, who were the real leaders in the plot. They both received a sound thrashing and were clapped in chains until they
learned how to ask pardon, which they were not long in doing,
and the wonted freedom and peacefulness of the party was soon
restored. Nothing more of unusual interest transpired until
they reached the district of Mrera, fourteen days journey from
Unyanyembe.




CHAPTER XXXII.
THE MEETING.
Approaching Each Other-The Spirit of the Man-",A Good Heart"-Adequacy of Christian Kindness-Africa for Christ-Effigies of Men-A Lesson
Learned-Mistake the Man-The Ambuscade-A Third Deliverance-A Good
Omen-No Vengeance-The Leopard-Weary and Indifferent-Painful Reflections-" Little Better than a Skeleton "-Drerdful Disappointment-The
Good Samaritan —Mr. Stanley's Caravan-" That 23d Day of October "-Good
News-A Forced March-The Tanganyika at Last-The First View of the
Lake-Special Charms for Stanley-The Approach-" Good-Morning, Sir ""Who the Mischief are You? "-The Meeting-The Conversation-The Revelation Made-" God Never Failed Him "-The Best Medicine-A Cruise on
the Lake-No Outlet Found-" I Must Finish my Task."
ABOUT the time that Mr. Stanley halted his caravan in
Mrera Dr. Livingstone landed on the islet Kasenge, in Lake
Tanganyika.  They were approaching each other.  We remember how sadly the great traveller turned away his eyes
from the river which he believed could in one short month
guide him to the Nile.  We left him  arranging for his return
to Ujiji, where he contemplated one of two evils, as the only
thing hopeful which awaited him there: either he must gather
followers from  the unreliable vagabonds who might be found
floating about town, or be willing to wait ten months at least
until men could be sent from the coast.  But lhe was not discouraged; the spirit of the man was indomitable, his resoluteness was astonishing.  Far advanced in years, and feeling the
weight of age, the victim  of various diseases, surrounded by
wars, with an experience of years confirming all the apprehensions of dangers and want and  disappointment which could
possibly arise in his thoughts, he calmly contemplated, first retracing his steps at least six hundred miles, and then a long and
perilous circuitous route, for the purpose of reaching again, outside of the net of the slavers, the promising thread of discovery
which he was forced for the time to relinquish.  It is absolutely
35                                            677




678             PO~WER OF BENEVOLENCE.
certain that nothing could have separated him from his task
except death.
We have already become familiar with the country through
which his journey to Ujiji lay. The Manyuema, who had
learned the difference between the white man and the Arabs,
treated him  kindly; they had no quarrel with him: he had a
"good heart," they said. There is marvellous power in goodness; the benevolence in human nature is the brightest reflection
of Deity; Christian kindness is the truest representative of the
grace of God. The lives of men acting out those generous impulses implanted by the Spirit of God are most potential rays
from Calvary, penetrating the world, enlightening, cheering,
and controlling human hearts. The fact of the crucifixion is
the saving truth of the ages: good men are the channels of its
dissemination and the agents of its power. It is not by human
prowess but by human benevolence that the world is to become
the kingdom  of the Lord and of his Christ. If the life of
David Livingstone does no more, it will reassure the hearts of
men in the absolute adequacy of Christian kindness to control
the rudest barbarians, and make allies in noblest enterprises of
the most ignorant and degraded. Perils there may be for the
man who ventures on missionary work among savages, but if
he be thoroughly in love with them, so sincerely and immovably consecrated to their welfare that no exhibitions of depravity
can diminish his zeal, anll no ingratitude paralyze his purpose,
if he seek them as Christ sought the world, the love of his heart
will be his palladium and his kind offices his edicts of authority.
The life which is an emanation from the heart of Christ will
disarm all prejudices and overcome all resistance, and lead
out the latent virtues of the most ignorant and vicious, like
the gentle, genial rays of the sun scatter the darkness an(i melt
the crusts of earth and summon from its deadness a very paradise of life and beauty. Next to Jesus Christ a loveful human
life is glorious. When all the storye has been told, when the
portrait of Livingstone stands out complete, the best thing of
all that will have been said, the brightest lines on the canvas,
will be the words of these poor Manyuema cannibals, "a good
man!"  We cannot think of him journeying toward UTjiji, full
of sorrow and pain, while the trembling victims of Arab cruel



A LESSON FROM HEATHEN.               679
ties hung on his track, begging him to stay with them and help
them, without tenderest emotion. Oh, how long shall it be before the Church of Jesus Christ extends its blessings to all the
benighted of earth! Where the sun has shone, it may shine;
where Christian feet have trod, they may tread; where Christian power has been recognized and felt, it may reign. Africa
may be Christ's, all Christ's; the same gentle agency by which
the gospel prevails in other lands is enough to make even the
darkest wildernesses of that land, earliest known and last to be
redeemed, blossom like a rose.
As he journeyed toward Bamnbarre the traveller's heart was
grieved every day by the desolations which the unscrupulous
invaders had made, in even so short a time. The sites of destroyed villages, panic-stricken refugees, there was nothing
cheering, the deepening curse hung like a pall over all the landscapes. The hills were not inspiring as they would have been;
even the splendid fbliage waving everywhere, like nature's defiance of human wrath, could not seem as fresh and green as it
was, to eyes saddened by such sights as it imperfectly concealed.
Effigies of men were often seen: the people called them Bathata
-fathers or ancients.  The names of these rude pieces of
handiwork were preserved, and when they were spoken of, these
revered names were pronounced nmost carefully. These heathen
teach us a lesson by their thoughtful utterances of the names of
their deities.  Sometimes there are offerings made to the
"fathers " by the poor savages.
On this journey Dr. Livingstone was repeatedly saved from
death by unmistakable providences. In his account of this he
says, that one day he came to a village, ill, almost every step in
pain, and was distressed to see the people all run away. There
was evidently a mistake, he felt sure they could not know who
he was. They would come sometimes and throw stones at his
people, and tried to kill those who went for water. All night
these villagers watched them. The next morning, the first thing
was to send men forward to see if the way was clear. But the
people would come to no terms. They knew their advantage,
and the wrongs they had suffered from  Bin Juma and Mohamad's men when they threw down the ivory in the forest.
In passing-along the narrow path, with a wall of dense vegeta



680                 TIIE AMBUSCADE.
tion touching each hand, the party came to a point where an
ambush had been placed, and trees cut down to obstruct them
while they speared them; but for some reason it was abandoned.
Nothing could be detected; but by stooping down to the earth
and peering up towards the sun, a dark shade could sometiames
be seen: this was an infuriated savage, and a slight rustle in
the dense vegetation meant a spear. A large spear from his
right lunged past the doctor, and almost grazed his back, and
stuck firmly into the soil. The two men from whom it came
appeared in an opening in the forest only ten yards off and
bolted, one looking back over his shoulder as he ran. As they
were expert with the spear it was remnarkable that it missed,
except that he was too sure of his aim and the good hand of
God was upon Livingstone.
Hle was behind the main body, and all were allowed to pass
till he, the leader, who was believed to be Mohamad Bogharib,
or Kolokolo himself, came up to the point where they lay. A
red jacket they had formerly seen the doctor wearing was proof
to them that he was the same that sent Bin Juma to kill five of
their men, capture eleven women and children, and twenty-five
goats. Another spear was thrown at him by an unseen assailant, and it missed also, by about a foot in front. Guns were
fired into the dense mass of forest, but with no effect, for nothing could be seen; they heard the men jeering and denouncing
them close by: two of their party were slain, still no one could
be seen.
Coming to a part of the forest cleared for cultivation Dr.
Livingstone noticed a gigantic tree, made still taller by growing
on an ant-hill twenty feet high; it had fire applied near its roots.
He heard a crack, which told that the fire had done its work,
but felt no alarm till he saw it come straight toward him; he
ran a few paces back, and down it came to the ground one yard
behind him, and, breaking into several lengths, it covered him
with a cloud of dust.  Had the branches not previously been
rotted off he could scarcely have escaped. Thus three times in
one day he was delivered from impending death. When they
saw this third deliverance, his attendants, who were scattered
in all directions, came running back to him, calling out, "Peace!
peace! you will finish all your work in spite of these people,




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ccI BECAME WEARY-INDIFFEREN'T."f          683
and in spite of everything."  Like them, Dr. Livingstone took
it as an omen of good success to crown him yet, for which his
faith gave thanks to the "Almighty Preserver of men."
They had five hours of running the gauntlet, waylaid by
spearmen, who all felt that if they killed the doctor they would
be revenging the death of relations. Fromn each hole in the
tangled mass a spear could be expected; and each moment they
expected to hear the rustle which told of deadly weapons hurled
at them. "' I became weary," he says, " with the constant strain
of danger, and, as I suppose happens with soldiers on the
field of battle, not courageous, but perfectly indifferent whether
I were killed or not."
When at last they got out of the forest and crossed the Liya
on to the cleared lands near the villages of Monanbundwa, and
lay down to rest, they soon saw Muanampunda coming, walking
up in a stately manner unarmed to meet them. He had heard
the vain firing into the bush, and came to ask what was the
matter. Dr. Livingstone explained the mistake that had been
made by the assailants in supposing that lie was Kolokolo, the
deeds' of whose men he knew, and then they went on to his
village together.
In the evening the chief sent to say that if the doctor would
give him all his people who had guns, he would call his own
people together, burn off all the vegetation they could fire, and
punish the offenders. This was not consistent with the feelings
of Dr. Livingstone. He felt very grateful that God had delivered
him, and had saved him from shedding blood when it seemed
impossible to do otherwise, and, declining the offered service, he
pursued his way. He was too ill to take much notice of the
country, too ill, indeed, to realize the dangers surrounding him.
In all his wanderings no journey had been performed with
greater suffering. The country was not only the abode of wild
men, but the forests and jungles through which they passed
afforded hiding-places to most ferocious beasts, whose presence
always calls for vigilance on the part of such individuals as invade their precincts. The leopard, whose habits have not come
so conspicuously before us as many of the monsters of the land,
is a serious scourge in Manyuema. One day a goat, an humble
but very important member of the caravan, was surprised by




684          A DREADFUL DISAPPOINTMENT.
the pressing attentions of a giant leopard. He was a terrible
animal; he seized the poor goat with hungry rage, and even
when a shot had broken both his forelegs the enraged beast
sprang on a man and bit him severely. There were elephants
and buffaloes and lions, and herds of more harmless animals, but;
the weary traveller was in no mood for adventure, and at best
had no fondness for hunting. The sufferings he endured in body
increased every day, and before he reached Tanganyika he felt
as if he should certainly die on his feet. His appetite failed,
the smallest quantities of meat caused violent diarrhoea, and his
mind being sorely depressed reacted on the body.  All the
traders were returning successful; he only had failed, and experienced worry, thwarting, baffling, when almost in sight of
the end toward which he had strained. With such reflections,
and a body almost worn out, he dragged himself toward the
lake. At length, on the 23d of October, he landed the second
time at Ujiji. All of the Arabs turned out to welcome him,
but more than all was Moenyegherd abounding in cordiality.
The long march was over, the exploration of MIanyuema had
been accomplished, the real cannibals had been seen, and the
slave-trade had been investigated to his fullest satisfaction.
But the hero himself had returned " little better than a skeleton."  But the markets were full of all kinds of food, and with
rest and food the emaciated body might soon become vigorous,
and then, the plans-there is nothing like the elasticity of a
strong man's spirits-he would yet see all those vast underground houses and the four ancient fountains. In the midst of
these inspiring hopes there came a piece of information which
seemed to  blot out the picture his hope was sketching, and
plunged him into the deepest perplexity. All of his plans had
presupposed the possession of abundant supplies of cloth and
beads which he knew had been sent to Ujiji.
Unfortunately these supplies had been intrusted to one
Shereef Basha, as leader of the caravan conveying them from
Zanzibar; he proved himself a consummate thief; not a thread
or a bead remained for the owner of all. This was dreadful
news. "Out of three thousand yards of calico and seven hundred pounds of beads not a yard of calico or a string of beads
remained."  The case was truly desperate; the few things which




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THE GOOD SAMARITAN.                  687
the doctor had left of his old stock could hardly suffice to buy
food for himself and his few men a single month. He saw
nothing but starvation or absolute dependence on the Arabs in
store for him; and there was no redress. The man who had reduced him to this extremity by his outrageous dishonesty even
presumed to offer his welcome with extended hand, and when
his hand was refused complained of being badly treated! The
destitution was almost unbearable. Where was the good
Samaritan whose commission it might be to relieve him?  God
could have answered that question!
Mir. Stanley had left Mrera on the 17th. His caravan
was the picture of confidence: and contentment again, all squabbling had ceased.  Bombay had forgotten his rebellion, the
powerful Kirangozi was ready to embrace his captain, and Mabruki of Unyanyembe vowed he could smell the fish of Tanganyika. They had passed through the thin forests adorned with
myriads of marvellous ant-hills, those wonderful specimens of
engineering talent and architectural capacity, those cunningly
contrived, model cities, with which the tiny denizens of African
wilds astonish the traveller continually; and on across plains
dotted with artificial-looking cones and flat-topped, isolated
mountains, and through marshy ravines where every unlucky
step insured a bath in Stygian ooze-the various scenes of
southern Ukonongo.  Then on through the territory so lately
abandoned by the dreaded Wazavira.  And on that 23d day of
October, that seemed the darkest of all the days to Dr. Livingstone, he was on the banks of the "beautiful stream of Mtambo,"
" Where the thorny brake and thicket
Densely fill the interspace
Of the trees, through whose thick branches
Never sunshine lights the place "the abode of lions and leopards and elephants and wild boars.
One of those splendid parks of the wilderness where majestic
forests and jungles, and lawn-like glades, and reedy brakes and
perilous chasms all unite to form that climax of wildness and
beauty, "the hunter's paradise."  It was just the place to arouse
all the Nimrod spirit a man possesses, and the two days of rest
were turned to good account by Mr. Stanley in testing the virtue
of his fine rifles on the masters of the domain.




688             INSPIRING INFORMATION.
When the march was resumed they passed on through Ukawendi, amid " the ruggedest scenes." We are told that the
young traveller had beheld in Africa a long and wearying way,
a hunger-begetting tramp, " all country," no villages, no people,
no food, only wild herds of buffaloes, and  tracks of the
rhinoceros. Then by the village of Nzogera, chief of the
Wavinza, where food was bought and a guide obtained, and a
stunning blackmail levied to spice the kindness, and introducing
the white man into the ways of Uvinza. And a fair specimen
it was of the experiences of the next three days spent in crossing
this country: over and over were like taxes made before the
travellers reached the Malagarazi, where the Wavinza put their
final demands in the shape of ferriage, and Mr. Stanley was
permitted to shake the dust of their country off his feet, firmly
convinced that these same Wavinza were worse than the Ugogo,
worse than any people, unqualifiedly bad, masters in the Satanic
art of badness.
While the prominent men of the caravan were congratulating
each other and their "master" on being out of Uvinza, another
caravan appeared from the direction of Ujiji; this turned out a
caravan of Wagulhha. When they came near, Mr. Stanley
asked the news, and was informed that a white man had just
arrived in Ujiji from Manyuema. He was startled, and his men
fully shared his astonishment, and questions and answers followed quickly.
"A white man? " they asked.
"Yes, a white man," was the reply.
"How was he dressed?"
"Like the master," said the speaker, pointing to Mr. Stanley.'Is he young or old?"
"He is old; he has white hair on his face, and is sick."
"Where has he come from?"'Fromn a very far country, away beyond Uguhha, called
Mlanyulema."
"Indeed! and is he stopping at Ujiji now? "
"Yes, we saw him about eight days ago."
"Do you think he will stop there until we see him?"
" Don't knowr."
"Was he ever in Ujiji before?"




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THE FORCED MARCH.                  691
"Yes, he went away a long time ago."
There could be no doubt about it: this white man just from
Manyuema —old, gray, sick-must be Livingstone. The news
sent the ardent blood of Mr. Stanley bounding through his
veins. His men appreciated his enthusiasm more fully than we
could have expected of them.
After a short march they came into the borders of Uhha.
Here again they were subjected to heavy taxes, and in two days
Mr. Stanley had paid over to the petty chieftains no less than
two whole bales of his precious cloth, for the liberty of walking
on the ground. He was tempted strongly to fight, but that
would endanger the expedition; he might be killed: then who
would relieve the sick man at Ujiji? That would not do; but
he would be robbed of all before he reached him: then how could
he help him? That must not be. He determined on making
forced wilderness marches across the inhospitable country, avoiding all villages. Provisions were prepared for four days under the
shadow of the chief who had taxed him. He knew that there
were numbers of them ahead who would do the same thing if
they saw him; they must not have that pleasure. It was better
to bribe a guide than be robbed by chiefs. So he bribed a guide,
and making a noiseless departure in the night from the village
of the king's brother, he began a long, silent, forced march, and
in three days they crossed the Mkuti, a glorious little river,
whose rippling, babbling waters seemed to enjoy the joke which
the white man had played on the Wahha.
The next day brought them to the brow of the hill, whence
looking away westward the eager eye of enthusiastic Stanley
caught the first view of Lake Tanganyika. It was nearly the
same spot from which Burton obtained the view which he has
so eloquently described. "Nothing, in sooth," he says, "could
be more picturesque than this first view of the Tanganyika lake,
as it lay in the lap of the mountains basking in the gorgeous
tropical sunshine. Below and beyond a short foreground of
rugged( and precipitous hill-fold, down which the footpath zigzags painfully, a narrow strip of emerald green, never sere and
marvellously fertile, shelves toward a ribbon of glistening yellow
sand, here bordered by sedgy rushes, there cleanly and clearly
cut by breaking wavelets. Farther in front stretch the waters,




692               LA KE TANGANYTIA.
an expanse of the lightest and softest blue, in breadth varying
from thirty to thirty-five miles, and sprinkled by the crisp east
wind with tiny crescents of snowy foam. The background in
front is a high and broken wall of steel-colored mountain, here
flecked and capped with pearly mists, there standing sharply
pencilled against the azure air; its yawning chasms marked by
a deeper plum-color, fall toward dwarf hills of mound-like proportions, which apparently dip their feet in the wave. To the
south and opposite the long low point behind which the Malagarazi river discharges the red loam suspended in its volant
stream, lie the bluff headlands and capes of Ugnhha, and as
the eye dilates it falls upon a cluster of outlying islets, speckling
a sea-horizon. Villages, cultivated lands, the frequent canoes
of fishermen on the waters, and on a nearer approach the mur,
tmurs of the waves breaking on the shore, give something of
variety, of movement, of life to the landscape, which like all the
fairest prospects in these regions want but a little of the neatness
and finish of art-mosques and kiasks, palaces and villas, gardens ahd orchards, contrasting with the profuse lavishness and
magnificence of nature, and diversifying the unbroken vegetation-to rival if not excel the most admired scenery of the classic
regions. The giant shores of this vast crevasse appeared doubly
beautiful after the silent and spectral mangrove creeks of the
sea-board, and the melancholy, monotonous experience of desert
and jungle scenery, tawny rock and sun-parched plain, rank
herbage and flats of black mire."  It was such a scene as any
mall would consider a compensation for all the toils and vexations
of the long way by which it is reached.
But there were charms in Tanganyika for Mr. Stanley which
were not there for Burton. There by the side of the beautiful
water was the noble old man whom he had come to Africa to
find and relieve. He "descended the western slope of the
mIountain with the Liuche river before him, and in an hour
came to the thick matete brake which grows on both banks of
it; then wading through the clear stream they emerged from
the brake and stood surrounded by the gardens of Ujiji, a marvel
of vegetable wealth.  Almost overpowered by emotion, Mr.
Stanley could hardly see the graceful palms, neat plats, and
small villages with frail fences of cane. He pushed along




TRIUMPHAL APPROACH.                693
rapidly at the head of his caravan, lest the news of his coming
should reach the people of Bunder Ujiji before he came in sight.
Presently he reached the summit of the last of the little ridges,
and the famous port of Ujiji embowered in palms lay below,
not five hundred yards away." He did not think of the hundreds of miles he had marched, of the hundreds of hills he had
ascended and descended, of the forests and jungles and varied
plains and scorching suns. They were past; the fondest hopes
were to be realized; in a few moments he should see Dr. Livingstone; the Samaritan was at hand. The perplexity of Livingstone had become extremity; God made it an opportunity. Mr.
Stanley gave the command:
"Unfurl the flags and load your guns."
"Ay, Wallah, ay, Wallah, bana!" was the answering shout
of the men, and quicker than we can write it the flags were
unfurled and the guns ready.
" One, t~o, three-fire!" and a volley from nearly fifty guns
roared like a salute from a battery of artillery.
"Now, Kirangozi," shouted Stanley, " hold the white man's
flag up high, and let the Zanzibar flag bring up the rear; and
you men keep close together and keep firing until we halt in
the market-place or before the white man's house; there are fish
and bear and a long rest for you-march."
Before they had gone a hundred yards the repeated volleys
had waked Ujiji to the knowledge that a caravan was coming,
and the people went rushing to meet them. Dr Livingstone
also had heard those volleys. We may not know what thoughts
flashed through his mind: what hopes bounded in his heart.
Susi and Chuma went bounding away with the multitudethere were Wanyamwezi, Wangwana, WVarundi, Waguhha,
Wamanyuema and Arabs-all thronging about the caravan
with their salutations-all gazing with admiration on the beautiful bindere Merikani (American flag).
Suddenly Mr. Stanley heard a voice in the crowd on his right
say:
" Good-morning, sir."
Startled to hear these familiar words in such a crowd he
turned quickly to find the man who uttered them. That man
was right by his side, with the blackest of faces, but all ani



694                 SUSI AND CHUMA.
mated and joyous; he was a picture for the artist as lie stood
there, dressed in his long white shirt, with a turban of American
sheeting around his woolly head. As Mr. Stanley gazed at this
apparition, he exclaimed:
"Who the mischief are you?"
"I am Susi, sir, the servant of Dr. Livingstone," came the
answer, while the speaker smiled —a broad, grand, teeth-displaying smile.
"W!lhat, is Dr. Livingstone here?"
"Yes, sir."
" In this village?"
"Yes, sir."
"Are you sure?"
"Sure, sure, sir; why I leave him just now."
Just then a second voice broke in with:
"' Good-morning, sir."
" Ilallo! is this another one?" said Stanley.
"Yes, sir."
"' Well, what is your name?"
"My name is Chuma, sir."
"What! are you Chuma, the friend of Wekotani?"
"Yes, sir."
"And is the doctor well?"
"Not very well, sir."
" Where has he been so long? "
"In Manyuema."
"Now you, Susi," said Mr. Stanley, "run and tell the doctor
I am coming."
"Yes, sir," and off Susi darted like a madman with the
welcome news.
Hearing the news the doctor had come out in front of his
house, and stood surrounded by a number of influential Arabs
awaiting the arrival.
Very soon Mr. Stanley came near enough to see him; there
he stood, an old man indeed, with gray hair and beard.  As he
approached at the head of his caravan he took off his hat, his
men halted.  Mr. Stanley walked forward and said:
"Dr. Livingstone, I presume?"
"Yes,9" replied the doctor, with a kindly smile, lifting his
cap slightly.




—.i
~ ~    ~         ~        ~        ~. ~~  f- 
STANLEY MEETING LIVINGSTONE.~~~~~\








" THE MEETING. "                 697
Both the men then replaced their hats and grasped hands.
There were few words.
"I thank God, doctor, that I have been permitted  to
see you."
"I feel very thankful that I am here to welcome you."
The introduction was finished, the acquaintance was formed;
and the old man introduced his new friend to the Arab dignitaries by name, and led the way to the broad verandah of his
house. They were soon seated-the two men-side by side,
with their backs to the wall of the house, engaged in earnest
conversation; and it was not long before Mr. Stanley found
himself enacting the part of a regular periodical. Referring to
this conversation, the doctor says:
" The news he had to tell to one who had been two full years
without any tidings from Europe made my whole frame thrill.
The terrible fate that had befallen France, the telegraphic
cables successfully laid in the Atlantic, the election of General
Grant, the death of good Lord Clarendon, my constant friend;
the proof that Her Majesty's Government had not forgotten me,
in voting ~1000 for supplies, and many other points of interest,
revived emotions that had lain dormant in Manyuema."
We cannot follow the conversation.  The man who was
telling the news was accustomed to that sort of thing, and the
listener heard with unspeakable delight. It was like coming
back to earth from the grave.
After a while the Arabs left, and very soon there came back
very nice, savory dishes from  their majesties, and a royal
dinner was spread; but the dinner did not interrupt the conversation-eating and talking, and talking and eating, the time
passed rapidly away. It was late- before the gentlemen parted
-Mr. Stanley to review his success in joyous dreams, and Dr.
Livingstone to read his letters. Up to that time Mr. Stanley
had withholden the nature of his mission. The next morning,
when they met, he opened the conversation by saying:
"Now, doctor, you are probably wondering why I came
here."
"It is true," said the doctor, "I have been wondering. I
thought you, at first, to be an emissary of the French Government in the place of Lieutenant Le Saint, who died a few miles




698             THE REVELATION MAIDE.
above Gondokoro. I heard you had boats, plenty of men and
stores, and I really believed you were some French officer until
I saw the American flag; and to tell the truth, I was rather
glad it was so, because I could not have talked to him in
French, and if he did not know English, we would have been
a pretty pair of white men in Ujiji. I did not like to ask you
yesterday, because it was none of my business."
"Well," said Stanley, laughing, "for your sake I am glad
that I am an American and not a Frenchman, and that we can
understand each other perfectly without an interpreter. I see
the Arabs are wondering that you, an Englishman, and I, an
American, can understand each other. We must take care not
+to tell them that the English and Americans have fought, and
that there are'Alabama' claims left unsettled, and that we have
such persons as Fenians in America, who hate you. But
seriously, doctor-now don't be frightened when I tell you that
I have come after-you."
"After me?"
" Yes."
"' How?"
Then followed the recital of the interest which Mr. Bennett
had felt in the great traveller, of his calling Mr. Stanley to
him, his liberality in fitting out the expedition, of his commission-" Find Livingstone."
We already know the destitution to which Dr. Livingstone
had been reduced, and the dreadful anxieties which were
weighing on his mind and heart. Words could hardly express
the gratitude he felt for this unexpected and unprecedented
kindness. More than all, he saw the hand of his God in the
deliverance which had come so opportunely. God had never
failed him. It seemed like a pledge of success in his cherished
enterprise. It renewed his courage and strength. Some men
would have thought of home, would have gone home. He did
not recognize this as a call home, but as a renewal of his commission in Africa, and he received it with the deepest thankfulness.
The days passed pleasantly. The good cheer and the good
food provided by Mr. Stanley acted like a charm on the sick
man, and soon he was himself again. Then came a short




A CRUISE ON THE LAKE.                699
cruise on the lake, a charming excursion in the estimation of
the old traveller who had been so long plodding about the
country on foot. Gliding along on the silvery surface, surrounded by splendid  scenery, hardly seemed to  him  like
exploring. The principal object, however, was to settle the
question of a northern outlet. It had been a favorite theory,
that there was probably a connecting link between the Tanganyika and the Albert N'Yanza of Baker. If this was correct, it
was very important that it be known to be so; if it was not
correct, the world was equally anxious to know it. Like many
a pet theory, this one vanished when the touchstone of actual
observation was applied. The rivers all were found flowing
into Tanganyika. Nothing wvas found out which afforded any
satisfaction so far as the possible importance of this great inland
sea in connection with the wonderful river of Egypt. The
travellers had the pleasure of following the coast around for
many miles, diving in and out of innumerable rivers and creeks,
sailing under the shadow of towering cliffs and by beautiful
banks stretching away in lawn-like beauty. Several times they
were in danger of being forced to defend themselves with their
guns against presumptuous savages.  They both enjoyed it
exceedingly. To Dr. Livingstone it was a grand picnic. When
they returned to Ujiji Dr. Livingstone began the preparation of
letters to be committed to the hands of Mr. Stanley, and Mr.
Stanley took fever-one was quite as natural as the other.
Christmas came, and it was resolved to observe the day with
the time-honored custom of' a feast.  What a contrast was
promised to many of the Christmas days which the doctor could
remember! There were fat broad-tail sheep, goats, zogga and
pombe, eggs, fresh milk, plantains, sengwe, fine corn flour,
fish, onions, sweet potatoes. But alas! Ferajji spoiled the
roast, and the custard was burned.
Dr. Livingstone had decided to accompany Mr. Stanley as
far as Unyanyembe, where he hoped he would find goods, and
where he proposed to remain until reliable men could be sent
him from Zanzibar, with whom to renew his efforts to solve the
Nile problem. To all of Mr. Stanley's arguments about going
home he replied: "No. I should like to see my family very
much indeed; my children's letters affect me intensely; but I
must not go home; I must finish my task."




CHAPTER XXXIII.
A JOURNEY AND A DELAY.
From Ujiji to Unyanyembe-Livingstone a Companion-Route Adopted-Forest
Entertainmnent-Methods of Hunting —Makombwe Hunting HippopotamusBaker's Rhinoceros Hunt-Wild Race-"A Horse! a Horse! "-Sword wins
the Day-Stanley as Hunter-Tent-Life-Arrive at Kwihara-Home-LifeBusy Preparations-Livingstone Abundantly Provided for-Farewell of Wanyamwezi-A Wild Dance-The Farewell Song —The Parting —Bagamoyo
Again-The English Expedition-Oswald Livingstone-Caravan Sent Back —
The Mission Completed-England, Livingstone, Stanley, the World-Comfort
in Disappointmelnt-Livingstone in Unyanyembe — His Occupation-His
Modesty-His Zeal for Missions-The Country Inviting-A Robinson Crusoe
Life-The Mothers of the Country-The Call to Missionaries-"Advice to
Missionaries "-" No Jugglery or Sleight-of-hand "-Livingstone's Interest
General-Grasp and Minuteness-Suspense Ended-Stanley in England-The
Queen's Acknowledgment.
THE journey from Ujiji to Unyanyembe occupied nearly
seven weeks. Much of the country traversed passed under our
eye as we traced Mr. Stanley's march  to the lake.  Those
splendid park lands which so charmed him then were the same
matchless theatres for wild adventure, and his spirit, doubly
buoyant in the joy of his success, revelled peculiarly in the
wealth of incident which each day afforded.  And  the old
traveller, whose heart had become very tender toward the
young man whose noble mission had revived his hope and
"put new life" into his feeble frame, enjoyed the enthusiasm
which reminded him of the years long ago when he travelled
with his friend Oswell, and witnessed the delight of Gordon
Cumming in his wonderful engagements with the monsters of
the forest. Dr. Livingstone had already endeared himself to
his companion by the exhibition of many lovely traits; his
kindness and gentleness were always conspicuous, and  the
interest which lie manifested in the successes or failures of the
young Nimrod, the zest with which he participated in all the
adventures of the journey-which to him must have been com700




A HELPFUL FRIEND.                  701
monplace-gave him a warmer place still in the big American
heart.  The travellers had wisely avoided the troublesome
Wahha and Wavinza by making the earlier part of their journey
along the lake; they were not therefbre harassed by those extortions which so frequently spoil the pleasantest experiences of
such a march.  The personal followers of Livingstone and
Stanley-indeed, their entire caravan-shared the good humor
of their masters. There were adventures with lions and elephants and rhinoceroses and hippopotami and leopards, and
buffaloes, zebras and giraffes and elands passed in constant
review. And beautiful strange birds and comical monkeys had
their part in the progranme with which the wonderful country
entertained its visitors. Sometimes these actors produced most
moving impressions on their audience. Mr. Stanley had opportunities of testing the strength of his nerves face to face with
various members of the troupe; and often he needed the timely
comfort which his experienced friend could give, and the hints
which thirty years in Africa could suggest were of greatest
service. We have become tolerably familiar with most of these
animals, and have learned reasonably well how to rank them;
but the different methods of hunting which obtain in different
sections of Africa affect considerably the hunter's selection of
his game; and the different methods pursued by civilized and
savage hunters make a great difference in the peril or sport
attending the chase of different animals. The great unwieldy
hippopotamus, for instance, to an American or Englishman,
armed with his powerful rifle, loaded with hardened balls, is
often dull work, little better as sport than shooting an ox at
home. But there are hippopotamus hunters in Africa who, according to Dr. Livingstone's ideas of such matters, make the
bravest work of it that he ever witnessed. These hunters, who
are distinguished for their wonderfill courage far and wide, are
called Makombwe. When they go forth to their gallant sport
each canoe is manned by two men; they are long, light craft,
scarcely half an inch in thickness, about eighteen inches beam,
and from eighteen to twenty feet long. They are formed for
speed, and shaped somewhat like our racing boats. Each man
uses a broad, short paddle, and as they guide the canoe slowly
down stream to a sleeping hippopotamus not a single ripple is
36




702             HIPPOPOTAMUS HUNTING.
raised on the smooth water; they look as if holding in their
breath, and communicate by signs only. As they come near the
prey the harpooner in the bow lays down his paddle and rises
slowly up, and there he stands erect, motionless, and eager, with
the long-handled weapon poised at arm's length above his head,
till coming close to the beast he plunges it with all his might in
towards the heart. During this exciting feat he has to keep his
balance exactly. His neighbor in the stern at once backs his
paddle, the harpooner sits down, seizes his paddle, and backs too
to escape: the animal, surprised and wounded, seldom returns
the attack at this stage of the hunt. The next stage, however,
is fuill of danger.
The barbed blade of the harpoon is secured by a long and
very strong rope wound round the handle: it is intended to
come out of its socket, and while the iron head is firmly fixed
in the animal's body the rope unwinds and the handle floats on
the surface. The hunter next goes to the handle and hauls on
the rope till he knows that he is right over the beast: when he
feels the line suddenly slacken he is prepared to deliver another
harpoon the instant that hippo.'s enormous jaws appear with a
terrible grunt above the water. The backing by the paddles is
again repeated, but hippo. often assaults the canoe, crunches it
with his great jaws as easily as a pig would a bunch of asparagus, or shivers it with a kick by his hind foot. Deprived of
their canoe the gallant comrades instantly dive and swim to the
shore under water: they say that the infuriated beast looks for
them on the surface, and being below they escape his sight.
When caught by many harpoons the crews of several canoes
seize the handles and drag him hither and thither till, weakened
by loss of blood, he succumbs.
The rhinoceros is hardly a more interesting game than the
hippopotamus in the regions where travellers are denied the
privilege of carrying horses by the fatal tsetse. It is formidable
anywhere of course, but it is questionable whether the bravest
hunter enjoys any part of an engagement with a really dangerous
animal so much as the chase. There cannot be very much enjoyment in standing with a rifle in hand and killing an elephant,
or lion, or rhinoceros, while the victim is in repose; and there
is no special valor about it. But we can understand the enthu



A HORSE IN THE HUNT.                703
siasm with which a man narrates such hunting adventures as
Baker and Oswell or Cumming had. A horse puts life into
the sports of the tropics.  We remember a scene which
Baker describes in his "Nile," that represents the perfection
of rhinoceros hunting, and the distinguished traveller describes the chase with an enthusiasm  quite worthy of his
theme. It was in Abyssinia. He had left his camp in company
with a party of aggageers, those expert sword-hunters, whose
wonderful dexterity we have mentioned before, and after spending most of the day in collecting gum was returning, when at a
most unexpected moment he discovered a fine brace of rhinoceroses asleep beneath a thick mass of bushes; handing his
reins to a follower he walked quietly to within about thirty
yards of his game; but before he could take aim they both
sprang suddenly to their feet with astonishing agility, and the
next instant one of them charged straight at him. The ball of
his rifle only served to turn the assailant, and the two animals
went thundering off together; and away went the aggageers in
lursuit. Mr. Baker himself, springing into his saddle, joined
the chase, which we will allow him to tell in his own words:
" The ground was awkward for riding at full speed, as it was
an open forest of mimosas, which though wide apart were very
difficult to avoid owing to the low crowns of spreading branches;
these, being armed with fishhook thorns, would have been
serious on a collision. I kept the party in view until in about
a mile we arrived upon open ground. Here I again applied the
spurs, and by degrees I crept up, always gaining, until at length
I joined the aggageers. Here was a sight to drive a hunter
wild! The two rhinoceroses were running neck and neck like
a pair of horses in harness, but bounding along at a tremendous
speed within ten yards of the leading Hamran. This was Taher
Sherrif, who, with his sword drawn and his long hair flying
wildly behind him, urged his horse forward in the race, amidst
a cloud of dust raised by the two huge but active beasts, that
tried every sinew of the horses. Roder Sherrif, with the withered arm, was second; with the reins hung over the hawk-like
claw which was all that remained of a hand, but with his naked
sword grasped in the right, he kept close to his brother, ready
to second his blow. Abou Do was third; his hair flying in the




704               A RHINOCEROS HUNT.
wind, his heels dashing against the flanks of his horse, to which
he shouted in his excitement to urge him to the front, while he
leaned forward with his long sword, in the wild energy of the
moment, as though hoping to reach the game against all possibility. Now for the spurs! And as these, vigorously applied,
screwed an extra stride out of Tetel, I soon found myself in the
ruck of men, horses, and drawn swords. There were seven of
us, and passing Abou Do, whose face wore an expression of
agony at finding that his horse was failing, I quickly obtained
a place between the two brothers, Taher and Roder Sherrif.
There had been a jealousy between the two parties of aggageers
and each was striving to outdo the other; thus Abou Do was
driven to madness at the superiority of Taher's horse, while the
latter, who was the renowned hunter of the tribe, was determined that his sword should be the first to taste blood. I tried
to pass the rhinoceros on my left, so as to fire close into the
shoulder my remaining barrel with my right hand, but it was
impossible to overtake the animals and they bounded along with
undiminished speed. With the greatest exertion of men and
horses we could only retain our position within three or four
yards of their tails, just out of reach of the swords. The only
chance in the race was to hold the pace until the rhinoceroses
should begin to flag. The horses were pressed to the uttermost,
but we had already run about two miles and the game showed
no signs of giving in. On they flew: sometimes over open
ground, or through low brush, which tried the horses severely;
then through strips of open forest, until at length the party began to tail off and only a select few kept their places. We arrived at the summit of a ridge from which the ground sloped
in a gentle inclination for about a mile towards the river; at
the foot of this incline was a thick, thorny, nabbuk jungle, for
which impenetrable covert the rhinoceroses lpressed at their utmost speed. Never was there better ground for the finish of a
race; the earth was sandy but firm, and as we saw the winningpost in the jungle that must terminate the hunt, we redoubled
our exertions to close with the unflagging game. Sulieman's
horse gave in. We had been for twenty minutes at a killing pace.
Tetel, although not a fast horse, was good for a distance, and he
now proved his power of endurance, as I was riding at least




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I~HNOCi~S HNT








"CA HIORSE! A HORSE!"             707
two stone heavier than any of the party. Only seven remained;
and we swept down the incline, Taher Sherrif still leading and
Abou Do the last! His horse was done but not the rider, for
springing to the ground while at full speed, sword in hand, he
forsook his tired horse and preferred his own legs; he ran like
an antelope for the first hundred yards. I thought he would
really pass us and winl the honor of the first blow. It was of
no use, the pace was top severe, and although running wonderfully he was obliged to give way to the horses. Only three now
followed the rhinoceroses-Talher Sherrif, his brother Roder and
myself. I had been obliged to give the second place to Roder,
as he was a mere monkey in weight, but I was a close third.
The excitement was intense. We neared the jungle and the rhinoceroses began to show signs qf flagging as the dust puffed up
before their nostrils, and with fioses close to the ground they
snorted as they still galloped on. Oh, for a fresh horse!'A
horse! a horse! my kingdom for a horse!' We were within two
hundred yards of the jungle, but the horses were all done. Tetel
reeled as I urged him forward; Roder pushed ahead. We were
close to the dense thorns and the rhinoceroses broke into a trot;
they were done! One moment more and the sword flashed in
the sunshine as the rearmost rhinoceros disappeared in the thick
screen of thorns with a gash about a foot long upon his hindquarters. Taher Sherrif shook his bloody sword in triumph
above his head, but the rhinoceros was gone. We were fairly
beaten, regularly outpaced; but I believe another two hundred
yards would have given us the victory.'Bravo! Taher!' I
shouted. He had ridden splendidly, and his blow had been
marvellously delivered at an extremely long reach, as he was
nearly out of his saddle when he sprang forward to enable
the blade to attain a cut at the last moment."
Mr. Stanley was not encouraged to put very much confidence
in the wonderfuil stories of tropical hunters by his own experience. I-e was more fortunate in his assaults on the beautiful
zebras and hartbeests and giraffes than on lions, elephants, and
the rhinoceros. He seemed formed for managing men rather
than killing beasts; he was more of a general than a butcher,
and lost nothing on that account in the estimation of Dr. Livingstone. There is a sort of exhilaration felt in reading the narratives




708             THE TEMBE AT KWIHARA.
of bold encounters of men with the ferocious monsters of these
wild regions, but'the man himself does not appear nobler or
more lovely in our eyes because he "bags three lions in one
day," or sends a bullet crashing through the skull of an elephant
just in time to save himself fromn a dreadful death beneath the
monster's feet. Livingstone was no hlunter, but his name will
be a magic word in our homes, arousing us to noble action and
lofty courage when all the catalogue of dashing sportsmen are
forgotten. It is a relief in the midst of the wildness to think of
the quiet home-like conversations which beguiled the evenings
in the camp of these two men. One of them better informed
about the dark continent of Africa than any other living man,
and accustomed to grave reflection on all that he saw there: the
other fresh from travelling the world over, with the careful eye
and retentive memory which distinguish men whose business
it is to keep the world informed about itself. Sometimes there
were hard, trying experiences too. Mr. Stanley suffered -frequently with fever; once or twice they lacked bread and wearied
of wild meat. And so with varying experiences they pursued
their march, helping each other with kind words and deeds, until
they came among the welcome scenes of Unyanyembe.
It was on the 18th of February, the fifty-third day from Ujiji,
that they entered the valley of Kwihara, with flags unfurled
and guns firing triumphantly. And it was a proud moment for
the young leader of the Herald expedition when he welcomed
Dr. Livingstone to his house. Since the day that he parted
with the Arabs, sick and almost weary of his life, strengthened
only by the inspiration of his mission, he had travelled more
than twelve hundred miles, and just one hundred and thirty-one
days had elapsed; but what vicissitudes were crowded in those
days, and how had he been favored by the Providence that ruleth
over all!
Some of Dr. Livingstone's own stores were in waiting for him
at Unyanyembe, and large quantities which had been left there
by Mr. Stanley. It was indeed an abundant reward for all the
toil to see the happy face of the great traveller. The house was
a palace compared with the hut in which he was living at
Ujiji. The storerooms were full of the good things of this life,
besides cloth, beads, wire and the thousand and one impedimenta




"THE MISSION ACCOMPLISHED."             709
and paraphernalia of travel with which Mr. Stanley had laden
one hundred and fifty men at Bagamoyo. There were seventyfour loads of miscellaneous things, and the most valuable of
these were to be turned over to Dr. Livingstone. What a
change, what a deliverance, what a godsend to that weary,
anxious heart was the realization of this assistance? Now he
could think of the Nile again; he could plan his route; he could
form all his plans; he could write his letters to his friends inl
England telling them what he proposed to do, for the means
were in his hand. He was not a beggar; he was independent
once more.
Mr. Stanley's mission was now accomplished, and his duty
called him homeward. The noble man who had sent him forth
so benevolently was waiting for a report; the world was waiting
to be relieved of its suspense about Livingstone. The goods,
boxes and bales were overhauled. They had not been inviolate
entirely; of course the thieves had levied their tax; some of the
choicest articles were missing. The notorious white ants too
-those astonishing little sawyers of Africa-had been at work;
they had destroyed a number of the gun-stocks. Probably the
most welcome articles in the whole lot which had been sent him
were four flannel shirts from his daughter, and two pairs of
splendid walking-shoes which had been very thoughtfully provided by his "friend Waller."  Mr. Stanley placed at his disIposal abundance of beads and cloth and wire, etc., etc. So far
the traveller was fixed; there was one thing remaining —men,
such men as could not be obtained in Unyanyembe. All the
wealth of the world could avail him nothing without men. He
needed at least fifty men to carry this great pocket-book and
provision basket, and these men should be well armed. Mr.
Stanley undertook to send these men so equipped from Zanzibar.
The doctor had finished his letters, and all things were ready
for the departure. Besides the letters, he had carefully packed
his journals of the past years in a box "sealed with five seals;
the impression on them those of an American gold coin, an anna,
half anna, and cake of paint with royal arms —positively not to
be opened." The Arabs had made their farewell calls, and at
night the native followers of Singiri gathered about the tembe
to give the American a farewell dance. He says, " It was a wild




710           THE FAREWELL ENTERTAINMENT.
scene. Four drums were on duty, and the weird circle was
formed about the men whose office it was to make the furious
music.  Bombay, as ever comical, never so much at home as
when in the dance of the Mrima, had his head adorned with his
master's water-bucket."  Chowperch, another of Stanley's followers, joined the circle with a goatskin wrapped about his head,
and brandished an axe wildly as he moved among the throng;
Barako flourishing a spear; Mabruki, the " bull-headed," entered
into the spirit of the occasion with the tread of an elephant;
TJlimnengo too was conspicuous, with a gun, looking as ferocious
as- possible; two others of the caravan were before the drummers, back to back, ambitiously shaking their heels at the stars;
while Asami, the embodiment of giant strength, a towering
Titon, dealt desperate blows on the inoffensive air with the butt
end of his gun, and to finish the scene, Mr. Stanley himself
sprang into the circle and performed the "light fantastic toe"
to the intense delight of his braves.  When the warlike music
ended, a second scene was produced. The Choragus dropt on his
knees and dipped his head two or three times in an excavation
in the ground, and the choir, also on their knees, repeated in
dolorous tones the last words of a slow and solemn refrain:
Choraqus.-Oh-oh-oh-oh! the white man is going home!
C(loir. —Oh-oh-oh! going home!
Going home, oh-oh-oh!
Choratgs.-To the happy islands on the sea,
Where the beads are plenty, oh-oh-oh!
Ghoir.-Oh-oh-oh! where the beads are plenty,
Oh-oh-oh!
Choragus. —While Singiri has kept us, oh, very long
From our homes, very long, oh-oh-oh!
Cloir.-From our homes, oh-oh-oh I
Oh-oh-oh!
Choragus. —And we have had no food for very longWe are half-starved, oh, for so long,
Bana Singiri!
Cho'ir.-For so very long, oh-oh-oh!
Bana Singiri, Singiri I
Singiri! oh, Singiri!




~~&~~~    ~
L7             _____-.-~ —-~-~ —.~; —~~-S~~~RiR~bTc~n~~~ T-E — J. -~~~
1 —
~XANX V\~IMPZ FAP~ILY'EI L DANCE.
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AN ENCAMPMEN~~~~~~~-;-T.-=








" THE SEARCH EXPEDITION."                713
Chorag-us. —Mirambo has gone to war
To fight against the Arabs:
The Arabs and Wanguana
Have gone to fight Mirambo!
Choir. —Oh-oh-oh! to fight Mirambo!
Oh, Mirambo! Mirambo!
Oh, to fight Mirambo!
Choragus.-But the white man will make us glad;
He is going home! For he is going home,
And he will make us glad! Sh-sh-sh!
Choir.-The white man will make us glad, sh-sh-sh!
Sh sh-h-h-sh-sh-h-h-h-h!
Unm-m-mu —um-m-m-sh!
Thus ended the singular farewell of the Wanyamwezi.  There
was only one more day.  On the morning of the 14th of March
the Herald expedition set out on its return to Zanzibar.  The
final farewell was taken, and Dr. Livingstone returned to the
house that seemed now desolate indeed, while his friend and
helper marched away.
To reach Zanzibar, secure followers for Dr. Livingstone and
sail for England, was the workl of about two months and a half.
I-Ie met at Bagamoyo an English expedition, commanded by
Lieutenant Henn, with whom  was a son of Dr. Livingstone,
Mfr. Oswald Livingstone.  These gentlemen being assured of
the relief of the doctor, abandoned their enterprise. MIr. Oswald
Livingstone at first entertained the purpose of accepting the
charge of the caravan to be sent back by Mr. Stanley, but afterward declined. A joyous greeting awaited Mr. Stanley in Zanzibar, and before many days he had the pleasure of seeing fiftyseven men and boys in marching trim; conspicuous among them
were thle men who had attended Mr. Stanley himself.  They
had become very much attached to the doctor and were ready
enough to return to him.
The parting address of Mr. Stanley to this little army illustrates happily the successful method of dealing with a class of
men of infinite importance to the traveller.  When they were
about to depart, Mr. Stanley, standing before them, said:
"Men, you are now about to return to Unyanyembe, to the'great master.' You know him; you know he is a good man
and has a kind heart.  He is different from  me; he will not
treat you as I have done.  But you know I have rewarded you




714          JEALOUSY AND INCREDULITY.
all-how I have made you all rich in cloth and money. You
know how when you behaved yourselves well I was your friend.
I gave you plenty to eat and plenty to wear. When you were
sick I looked after you. If I was so good to you, the great master
will be much more so. He has a pleasant voice and speaks
kind. When did you ever see him lift his hand against an
offender?  When you were wicked he did not speak to you in
anger: he spoke to you in tones of sorrow.:Now will you
promise me that you will follow him-do what he tells you,
obey him in all things and not desert him? "
" We will! we will, my master! " the men all cried fervently.
Then came the hand-shaking, and the caravan was on its way to
Unyanyembe. And Mr. Stanley stood watching the great, lazy
dhow, sailing slowly across the channel. He had finished his
work. Mr. Bennett had said: "The old man may be in want;
take enough with you to help him should he require it. Of
course you will act on your own plans, and do what you think
best-BUT FIND LIVINGSTONE."  He had found Livingstone;
found him in want; had helped him. When he reached Africa
he had found one relief expedition there. Others had failedthis one failed. When he came back he found another starting
in-it was no longer needed. It had been reserved for an individual American to fit out the successful expedition, and another
individual American to lead it to the deliverance of an Englishman. Private enterprise had stepped forward, unsolicited, and
relieved the suspense of the reading world. And now the case
stood thus: The distinguished traveller, provided with every
comfort, was sitting at Unyanyembe, drawing his charts and
arranging his notes for that which he trusted would be the
crowning journey of his life. A strong and faithful caravan
was on its way to serve him.; every man hired for two faull years.
These facts were given to the world in hundreds of newspapers,
and flashing on all the wires. The hero of the enterprise which
had been rewarded with these splendid results was waiting on
the island of Zanzibar for a ship, thinking with joy and gratitude of the work he had been able to do, and just beginning to
find out what an ungracious reward a jealous government and
an incredulous world were proposing for him.
It was a great comfort to him that, however the English




HOME-LIFE AT IJNYANYEMBE.              715
geographers and the public generally might regard the matter,
that he carried in his mind and heart unquestionable assurances
of the appreciation of Dr. Livingstone, and he knew well that
he had in his possession documents which would convince even
theoretical -geographers that he had finished his work in a
manner becoming a man.
The home-life at Unyanyembe was undisturbed by the ridicule with which the reports of Mr. Stanley's success had been
received, and he knew it. The picture of the old, self-forgetting,
persevering, noble man in the tembe of IKwihara, comfortable
and hopeful, was enough. We have seen enough of that Unyanyembe home, of the contents of its storeroom, the cows, fowls,
sheep, and the faithful servants, to enable us to understand how
pleasantly a man with habits or fancies suited to the latitude
may spend a few months quite pleasantly, particularly when he
has so recently obtained release from four or five years of unparalleled fatigues, deprivations and harassments.
There was not much in the life of Dr. Livingstone during
those months calling for our notice now. Such observations of
the country and people as we find in his journal have been forestalled by the travellers whom we have fobund preceding him
there. Much of his time was employed in calculations, which
would be found very unsatisfactory to the general reader. Then
there were days in which he occupied himself with grouping
various reports which he had gathered concerning the country
into which he proposed to go-reports which he did not live to
confirm. None of them were satisfactory to him; it required
the clearest and most indisputable evidence to satisfy him on
any point of importance or general interest.  He surveyed perhaps more of the great water-shed of the continent than any
other traveller, yet he says frankly:
" In reference to this Nile source I have been kept in perpetual
doubt and perplexity. I know too much to be positive. Great
Lualaba, or Lualubba, as Manyuema say, may turn out to be
the Congo and Nile, ashorter river after all. The fountains
flowing north and south seem in favor of its being the:Nile.
Great westing is in favor of the Congo. It would be comfortable
to be positive like Baker."
There were questions, however, about which he was more de



716        LIVINGSTONE'S DEEPEST SOLICITUDE.
cided. He had studied the country, its seasons, climate, soil,
vegetation, its birds, animals, and general marketable produce
very thoroughly. And he had studied the people; he knew the
evils which oppressed them, and the possibilities which were
undeveloped in their rude characters. About these things he
could speak positively. And his mind was continually dwelling
on whatever seemed encouraging to those enterprises which
looked to the moral elevation of the people. He had been compelled to surrender his long-cherished schenme of himself establishing a great central mission in the country. Tile providence
which he believed was guiding him had assigned him another
task, but it was his delight to mIark the way for his brethren
whom he hoped would follow him. His mind was much on
this matter, and it is certainly most encouraging to those who
have shared with him the Christ-like solicitude for the conversion of Africa to Christ that all his trying experiences had not
diminished either his zeal or hopefulness in that great work.
We know that his are not the words of a novice, an unwise enthusiast, but of a deliberate, well-informed and sincere man.
He was anxious that there might be no diminution of missionary
effort in Africa, and such notes as the followiug will be helpfill
and inspiring to those who feel this great work laid on their
hearts:
" Many parts of this interior land present most inviting prospects for well-sustained efforts of private benevolence: Karague,
for instance, with its intelligent friendly chief Rumnainyilka
(Speke's Rumanika), and Bouganda, with its teeming population, rain, and friendly chief, who could easily be swayed by aul
energetic, prudent missionary. The evangelist must not depend on foreign support other than an occasional supply of
beads and calico; coffee is indigenous, and so is sugar-cane.
When detained by ulcerated feet in Manyuema, I made sugar
by pounding the cane in the common wooden mortar of the
country, squeezing out the juice very hard and boiling it till
thick; the defect it had was a latent acidity, for which.I had no
lime, and it soon all fermented.  I saw sugar afterwards at
Ujiji made in the same way, and that kept for months. Wheat
and rice are cultivated by the Arabs in all this upland region;
the only thing a missionary needs in order to secure an abundant




SUGGESTIONS TO MISSIONARIES.            717
supply is to follow the Arab advice as to the proper season for
sowing. Pomegranates, guavas, lemons and oranges are aburndant in Unyanyembe; mangoes flourish, and grape-vines are beginning to be cultivated; papaws grow everywhere. Onions,
radishes, pumpkins and watermelons prosper, and so would
most European vegetables, if the proper seasons were selected
for planting, and the most important point attended to in bringing the seeds. These must never be soldered in tins or put in
close boxes; a process of sweating takes place when they are
confined, as in a box or hold of the ship, and the power of vegetating is destroyed; but garden seeds put up in common brown
paper, and hung in the cabin on the voyage, and not exposed to
tile direct rays of the sun afterwards, I have found to be as
good as in England.
"True," he continues, " it would be a sort of Robinson Crusoe
life, but with abundant materials for surrounding one's self with
comforts, and improving the improvable among the natives.
Clothing would require but small expense; four suits of tweed
served me comfortably for five years(!) WVoollen clothing is
best; if all wool it wears long and prevents chills. The temperature here in the beginning of winter ranges from 620 to 750
Fahr. In summer it seldom  goes above 80~, as the country
generally is from three to four thousand feet above the sea."
As for the people inhabiting this central region, although he
saw them under the vitiating influence of the slave-trade, he has
recorded his conviction that there is nothing in their customs or
characters which ought to discourage missionary effort.
It has been supposed on the testimony of other travellers that
these tribes are greatly wanting in natural affection, and that
even mothers are accustomed to sell their children. The doctor
refers to this statement as follows:
" Speke at Kasenge islet inadvertently made a general statement thus:' The mothers of these savage people have infinitely
less affection than many savage beasts of my acquaintance. I
have seen a mother bear, galled by frequent shots, obstinately
meet her death by repeatedly returning under fire whilst endeavoring to rescue her young from the grasp of intruding men.
But here, for a simple loin-cloth or two, human mothers eagerly
exchanged their little offspring, delivering them into perpetual




718                SPEKE CORRECTED.
bondage to my Beluch soldiers.'-Speke, pp. 234, 235. For the
sake of the little story of'a bear mother,' Speke made a general assertion on a very small and exceptional foundation.
Frequent inquiries among the most intelligent and far-travelled
Arabs failed to find confirmation of this child-selling, except in
the very rare case of a child cutting the upper front teeth before
the under, and because this child is believed to be'moiko'
(unlucky), and certain to bring death into the family. It is
called an Arab child, and sold to the first Arab, or even left at
his door. This is the only case the Arabs know of child-selling.
Speke had only two Beluch soldiers with him, and the idea that
they loaded themselves with infants at once stamps the tale as
fabulous. He may have seen one sold, an extremely rare and
exceptional case; but the inferences drawn are just like that of
the Frenchman who thought the English so partial to suicide inll
November, that they might be seen suspended from trees in the
common highways.
"In crossing Tanganyika three several times I was detained
at the islet IKasenge about ten weeks in all. On each occasion
Arab traders were present, all eager to buy slaves, but none
were offered, and they assured me that they had never seen the
habit alleged to exist by Speke, though they had heard of the'unlucky' cases referred to. Every one has known of poor
little foundlings in England, but our mothers are not credited
with less affection than she-bears."
He had studied the customs and dispositions of the people as
a Christian teacher, in the interest of Christianity, with special
reference to the mission work, and he writes: "I would say to
missionaries, Come on, brethren, to the real heathen. You have
no idea how brave you are till you try. Leaving the coast and
devoting yourself heartily to the savages, as they are called, you
will find with some drawbacks and wickednesses a very great
deal to admire and love. Many statements about them require
confirmation. You will never see women selling their infants;
Arabs never did, nor have I. An assertion of this kind was
made by mistake."  In this connection wve feel assured that
many of our readers will be pleased to have the privilege of
reading for themselves Dr. Livingstone's "Advice to Missionaries," and it is que to him  that on such a subject he be
heard in his own words. It is as follows:




THE WAY OPEN.                     719
" No great difficulty would be encountered in establishing a
Christian mission a hundred miles or so from the east coast.
The permission of the Sultan of Zanzibar would be necessary,
because all the tribes of any intelligence claim relationship, or
have relations with him; the Banyamwezi even call themselves
his subjects, and so do others. His permission would be readily
granted, if respectfully applied for through the English consul.
The,Suaheli, with their present apathy on religious matters,
would be no obstacle. Care to speak politely, and to show
kindness to them, would not be lost labor in the general effect
of the mission on the country, but all discussion on the belief
of the Moslems should be avoided; they know little about it.
Emigrants from Muscat, Persia, and India, who at present possess neither influence nor wealth, would eagerly seize any formal
or offensive denial of the authority of their prophet to fan their
own bigotry, and arouse that of the Suaheli. A few now assume an air of superiority in matters of worship, and would
fain take the place of Mullams or doctors of the law, by giving
authoritative dicta as to the times of prayer; positions to be
observed; lucky and unlucky days; using cabalistic signs;
telling fortunes; finding from the Koran when an attack may
be made on any enemy, etc.; but this is done only in the field
with trading parties. At Zanzibar the regular Mullams supersede them.
" No objection would be made to teaching the natives of the
country to read their own languages in the Roman ch-aracter.
No Arab has ever attempted to teach them the Arabic-Koran;
they are called gumna, hard, or difficult as to religion. This is
not wonderful, since the Koran is never translated, and a very
extraordinary desire for knowledge would be required to sustain
a man in committing to memory pages and chapters of, to him,
unmeaning gibberish. One only of all the native chiefs, Monyulmgo, has sent his children to Zanzibar to be taught to read
and \rite the Koran; and he is said to possess an unusual admiration of such civilization as he has seen among the Arabs.
To the natives, the chief attention of the mission should be directed. It would not be desirable, or advisable, to refuse explanation to others; but I have avoided giving offence to
intelligent Arabs, who have pressed me, asking if I believed




720                 THE BEST METHOD.
in Mohammed, by saying,'No, I do not: I am a child of Jesus
bin Miriam,' avoiding anything offensive in my tone, and often
adding that Mohammed found their forefathers bowing down to
trees and stones, and did good to them by forbidding idolatry,
and teaching the worship of the only One God. This, they all
know, and it pleases them to have it recognized.
" It might be good policy to hire a respectable Arab to engage free porters, and conduct the mission to the country chosen,
and obtain permission from the chief to build temporary houses.
If this Arab w/ere well paid, it might pave the way for employing others to bring supplies of goods and stores not produced
in the country, as tea, coffee, and sugar. The first porters had
better all go back, save a couple or so, who have behaved especially well. Trust to the people among whom you live for
general services, as bringing wood, water, cultivation, reaping,
smith's work, carpenter's work, pottery,. baskets, etc. Educated
free blacks from a distance are to be avoided: they are expensive, and are too much of gentlemen for your work. You may
in a few months raise natives who will teach reading to others
better than they can, and teach you also much that the liberated
never know. A cloth and some beads occasionally will satisfy
them, while neither the food, the wages, nor the work will
please those who, being brought from a distance, naturally consider themselves missionaries. Slaves also have iundergone a
process which has spoiled them for life; though liberated young,
everything of childhood and opening life possesses an indescribable charm. It is so with our own offspring, and nothing
effaces the fairy scenes then printed on the memory. Some of
my liberados eagerly bought green calabashes and tasteless
squash, with fine fat beef, because this trash was their early
food; arid an ounce of meat never entered their mouths.  It
seems indispensable that each mission should raise its own
native agency. A couple of Europeans beginning, and carrying
on a mission without a staff of foreign attendants, implies coarse
country fare, it is true, but this would be nothing to those who,
at home, amuse themselves with fastings, vigils, etc. A great
deal of power is thus lost in the church. Fastings and vigils,
without a special object in view, are time run to waste. They
are made to minister to a sort of self-gratification, instead of




EXPENSES OF MISSION.                721
being turned to account for the good of others. They are like
groaning in sickness. Some people amuse themselves when ill
with continuous moaning. The forty days of Lent might be
annually spent in visiting adjacent tribes, and bearing unavoidable hunger and thirst with a good grace. Considering the
greatness of the object to be attained, men might go without
sugar, coffee, tea, etc. I went from September, 1866, to December, 1868, without either. A trader, at Casembe's, gave me a
dish cooked with honey, and it nauseated from its horrib)le
sweetness, but at one hundred miles inland, supplies could be
easily obtained.
"The expenses need not be large. Intelligent Arabs inform
me that, in going from Zanzibar to Casembe's, only three thousand dollars' worth are required by a trader, say between six
hundred pounds or seven hundred pounds, and he may be away
three or more years; paying his way, giving presents to the
chiefs, and filling two hundred or three hundred mouths. He
has paid for, say fifty muskets, ammunition, flints, and may return with four thousand pounds of ivory, and a number of
slaves for sale; all at an outlay of six hundred pounds or seven
hundred pounds. With the experience I have gained now, I
could do all I shall do in this expedition for a like sum, or at
least for one thousand pounds less than it will actually cost me."
But he cautions all who propose to seek the elevation of the
Africans that it can only be accomplished by real, consistent, benevolent, intelligent, and patient work. No jugglery or sleightof-hand, as was recommended to Napoleon III., would have any
effect in the civilization of the Africans; they have too much
good sense for that. Nothing brings them to place thorough confidence in Europeans but a long course of well-doing. They believe readily in the supernatural as effecting any new process or
feat of skill, for it is part of their original faith to ascribe everything above human agency to unseen spirits. Goodness or unselfishness impresses their minds more than any kind of skill or
power. They say, "You have different hearts from ours; all
black men's hearts are bad, but yours are good."  The prayer
to Jesus for a new heart and right spirit at once commends itself as appropriate. Music has great influence on those who
have musical ears, and often leads to conversion. But there
37




722                LIGHTER MATTERS.
must be careful instruction and consistent living. Particularly
must there be a clear and striking contrast in these respects between the Christian missionary and the Arab, whose name has
become a synonyme for selfishness and deceit.
We cannot contemplate the noble heart which seems to open
before us as we read these pages, recalling as we read them the
consecrated life which underscores every word, emphasizing their
truthfulness and importance, without a conscious reverence for
the noble, devoted man, who with so much toil and self-denial
comes before us with wise and earnest counsel. And may God
grant that this noble life may dwell in the minds of men, an
undying testimony and appeal, until all Africa is radiant with
the light of the knowledge of God.
But there were lighter matters woven into the life at Unyanyembe, relieving these more serious thoughts as they relieved
the wearying calculations and perplexing guesses. lNow and
then the dulness was broken by fragments of information from
various parts of the country. Sometimes the incidents of the
household afforded a brief entertainment. Nothing escaped his
notice. In his journal for these months we find a most remarkable range of subjects, while his mind was absorbed by the great
questions which come prominently before us in reading his life.
He had infinite delight in the sports of the birds about his door;
the peculiarities of the tiniest insects, the sports of children
with their diminutive bows and arrows, the frivolities of
his servants, their petty jealousies and ambitions, the most
trivial matters of trade, the little incidents and remarks among
the Arabs with whom  he exchanged visits, were all noticed.
One day he tells how he settled a quarrel between his two
women cooks; another time of the loss of a favorite cow;
somewhere else of bringing about a marriage for Susi. Then
he is absorbed in the raid some tiny sparrows were making on
a spider's web; a thousand things of the sort sharing his attention with the gravest problems.
No man comes more readily before us than himself when we
read his own thoughts most casually expressed as follows:
"All the great among men have been remarkable at once for
the grasp and minuteness of their knowledge.  Great astronomers seem to know every iota of the Knowable.  The great




THE SUSPENSE ENDED.                 723
Duke, when at the head of armies, could give all the particulars
to be observed in a cavalry charge, and took care to have food
ready for all his troops. Men think that greatness consists in
lofty indifference to all trivial things. The Grand Llama, sitting in immovable contemplation of nothing, is a good example
of what a human mind would regard as majesty; but the Gospels reveal Jesus, the manifestation of the blessed God over all,
as minute in his care of all. He exercises a vigilance more
constant, comp)lete, and comprehensive, every hour and every
minute, over each of his people, than their utmost self-love
could ever attain. His tender love is more exquisite than a
mother's heart can feel."
But however he might engage himself, freely as he might
allow his thoughts to roam and soar, there was one consuming
anxiety-the men. He counted the days. Over and over in
his journal there are found calculations of the time when they
might be expected.
"At last this trying suspense was put an end to by the arrival
of a troop of fifty-seven men and boys, made up of porters
hired by Mr. Stanley on the coast, and some more Nassick
pupils sent from Bombay to join Lieut. Dawson. We find the
names of John and Jacob Wainwright amongst the latter on
Mr. Stanley's list.
"Before we incorporate these new recruits on the muster-roll
of Dr. Livingstone's servants, it seems right to point to five
names which alone represented at this time the list of his original followers; these were Susi, Chuma, and Amoda, who joined
him in 1864 on the Zambesi-that is, eight years previouslyand Mabruki and Gardner, Nassick boys hired in 1866. We
shall see that the new-comers by degrees became accustomed to
the hardships of travel, and shared with the old servants all the
danger of the last heroic march home. Nor must we forget
that it was to the intelligence and superior education of Jacob
Wainwright (whom we now meet with for the first time) that
we are indebted for the earliest account of the eventful eighteen
months during which he was attached to the party.
"And now all is pounding, packing, bargaining, weighing,
and disputing amongst the porters.  Amidst the inseparable
difficulties of an African start one thankful heart gathers coamfort and courage."




724         THE QUEEN'S ACKNOWLEDGMENT.
The men arrived on the 14th of August. Mr. Stanley was
already in England. The precious, cheering letters had gladdened the hearts of loving children and kind friends. The
sealed box had been faithfully delivered; and the man who
brought them was receiving the kindest acknowledgments of
his success from the personal friends of Dr. Livingstone and
the British Government.
Conspicuous among these acknowledgments was a very beautiful token from the noble Queen, who had always, we remember, taken the deepest interest in the heroic traveller.
The expressions of royal appreciation, so gracefully embodied
in the following note, is a fitting seal of the chapters which will
leave us free to follow Dr. Livingstone back into the continent
which justly claims the privilege of pillowing his dying head
upon its breast.
"FOREIGN OFFICE, August 27.
"SIR: —I have great satisfaction in conveying to you, by
command of the Queen, her Majesty's high appreciation of the
prudence and zeal which you have displayed in, opening a communication with Dr. Livingstone, and relieving her Majesty
from the anxiety which, in common with her subjects, she had
felt in regard to the fate of that distinguished traveller.
"The Queen desires me to express her thanks for the service
you have thus rendered, together with her Majesty's congratulations on your having so successfully carried on the mission
which you fearlessly undertook. Her Majesty also desires me
to request your acceptance of the Memorial which accompanies
this letter.   I am, sir,
" Your most obedient, humble servant,
"GRANVILLE."




CHAPTER XXXIV.
THE LAST JOURNEY.
The Plans of Livingstone —Route Proposed-The March Begun-Livingstone's
Carefulness of Observation-A Reliable Observer-Indifference of Livingstone
to Danger-A Charmed Life-Better Judges-A Midnight Encounter-The
Old Disease-The Shores of Tanganyika-Cotton Cultivated-Hunting a
Business-Ominous Silence-Lake Liemba-The Slave Trade-Zombe-Be.
neficent Disappointments-Donkeys and the Tsetse-The Kalongosi-Nsama
and Casembe-Flood and Flowers-Beautiful Emblems-A Flooded CountryGreat Hardships-Fording Rivers-Livingstone Carried by his Men-Island
Villages-The Last Birthday-Resolution-Sufferings and Longings —Six Feet
Rain-Fall!-Fishes-Sinking Rapidly-Utterly Exhausted-Kindness of Muanazawamba-The Last Written Words-Carried on a Kitanda-The Last
Mile-The Last Words-Death.
WE are not left in any uncertainty about the plans of Dr.
Livingstone when he set out on the last journey of his life, or
the hopes which inspired him; and we can hardly find in the
history of human effort a grander instance of courage and perseverance than is exhibited in the deliberate and joyous undertaking, when we remember that the route marked  out: for
himself by this great man was perhaps as extensive as all his
journeys since he entered Africa in 1866.
"It is all but certain," he writes, "that four full-grown
gushing fountains rise on the watershed eight days south of
KIatanga, each of which at no great distance off becomes a large
river; and two rivers thus formed flow north to Egypt, the
other two south to Inner Ethiopia; that is, Lufira or Bartle
Frere's river; flows into Kamolondo, and that into Webb's
Lualaba, the main line of drainage.  Another, on the north
side of the sources, Sir Paraffin Young's Lualaba, flows through
Lake Lincoln, otherwise named Chibungo and Lomame, and
that too into Webb's Lualaba.  Then Liambai Fountain, Palmerston's, forms the Upper Zambesi; and the Lunga (Lunga),
Oswell's Fountain, is the Kafue; both flowing  into  Inner
725




726              THE ROUTE PROPOSED.
Ethiopia. It may be that these are not the fountains of the
Nile mentioned Ito Herodotus by the secretary of Minerva, in
Says, in Egypt; but they are worth discovery, as in the last
hundred of the seven hundred miles of the water-shed, from
which nearly all the Nile springs do unquestionably arise.
"I propose to go from Unyanyembe to Fipa; then round the.
south end of Tanganyika, Tambete, or Mbete; then across the
Chambeze, and round south of Lake Bangweolo, and due west
to the ancient fountains; leaving the underground excavations
till after visiting Katanga. This route will serve to certify that
no other sources of the Nile can come from the south without
being seen by me. NTo one will cut me out after this exploration is accomplished; and may the good Lord of all help me to
show myself one of his stout-hearted servants, an honor to my
children, and, perhaps, to my country and race."
Some one will enter into his labors, and the honor which his
unequalled self-denial and wonderful devotion to science and
humanity entitled him to desire; but no man will prove himself a stouter-hearted servant of God; no man can leave a
richer legacy to his children, his country, and his race, than is
bequeathed in the memory of him who crowns a life of useful
toil by a consecrated death.
There was no time lost in completing the arrangements at
Unyanyembe, when the caravan was once at the disposal of the
earnest man already so weary of delay. And no day of his
life was brighter to him than the 25th of August, whose evening shadows hung about his camp-an hour's march from
Kwihara.
The earlier part of the journey lay along almost the same
route as that traversed by Mr. Stanley first, and afterward by
himself and Mr. Stanley, between Ujiji and Unyanyembe. The
journal of the days is valuable to persons contemplating travels
in the country, but possess very little of interest to the general
reader. It was the custom of Dr. Livingstone to record with
singular care and minuteness the most trivial variations in the
soil and general appearance of the regions wlicli he traversed.
He could not have been more particular in these matters had
he been making a guide book, or charged with a survey for a
railroad. He was equally particular in the mention each day




A CHAR.rMED LIFE.                  727
of the little comforts and discomforts of travel.  If his leaders
had occasion to chastise a mischievous boy, it entered the journal;
if a man unluckily was taxed with storage for an insect in the
aqueous chamber of his eye, it interested him.  We have not
space for these things, and the reader would be impatient of
being kept back from the graver matters before us should we
irequire him to be so much interested in sixty or seventy men
of whom he knows nothing. The capacity of observing these
trivialties was a distinguishing trait, however, in the character
of Dr. Livingstone.  It was the same element of character
which constituted him infinitely the superior of ordinary travellers; that made his observations so reliable in matters of science.
The days were to Dr. Livingstone days of toil. He was no
longer young, and the wildness of Africa was no longer novel
to him. Those wonderful forests and charming hills which
engaged the eye of Mr. Stanley like the shifting scenes of a
grand panorama, were all familiar scenes to the man who had
been walking up and down in the land during thirty years.
Even that wonderful "paradise of hunters," where the young
leader of the Herald expedition rejoiced in his first engagements
with the monsters of the wilderness, possessed nothing new or
awe-inspiring. It is almost incredible that a man should become so thoroughly indifferent to the proximity of the most
ferocious and dangerous wild beasts as was Dr. Livingstone.
We remember the views which he expressed in earlier years
about the lion.  He never changed them; and he seems to have
become so accustomed to, not the lion only, but all his forest
rivals, that he could hardly give them mention. Indeed, we
cannot help feeling sometimes, as his men felt and said so frequently in substance, that he carried a "charmed life," and
lived in constant exposure to savage men and beasts in the
serenity of an almost conscious immortality. But the traveller
who thinks that the indifference of Livingstone to the monsters
that hold an unscrupulous sway in the wilds of Africa proves
that they may be despised with impunity is mistaken.  We
must not forget that explorers travel generally with extensive
caravans-little armies. The adventurers who attempt a less
imposing and dismaying invasion of those wilds are, perhaps,
the safer interpreters of the lion's roar, the "shriek " of the ele



728               LEOPARD ENCOUNTER.
phant, the quick " whiff" of the rhinoceros, and the stealthy
step of the leopard. It matters little to the unlucky man who
finds himself oddly matched in close encounter with one of
these, that the animal may possess only ferocity instead of true
courage. The case is desperate all the same. The leopard was
never thought of as distinguished by lofty courage; but a caravan can hardly pass through his native jungles without carrying
away a man or two less than it brought. One of the fiercest
scenes portrayed in books of travel is in the account of a midnight battle of a distinguished traveller with one of these
unmanly creatures. Separated from his party, and sadly bewildered, the traveller was vainly endeavoring to regain the path
from which he had unconsciously turned. The shadows had
closed about him, and the night, with all its most discordant
sounds, prevailed. Suddenly, while he listened intently, fearing
that a step might bring him across the path of some prowling
monster, he heard a foot-fall, light and cautious, and a hoarse
breathing. He had hardly time to grasp his weapon when the
leopard sprang on him. The struggle was for life on the
hunter's part, for blood on the part of his assailant. When it
ended it was a doubtful choice between the prostrate forms of
the man and beast for the living one; and years afterward the
man's memory reverted to that midnight encounter as the
climax of all his perils. It seems to be true, however, that
travellers through the countries infested by ravenous beasts
need not come into collision with them. It is generally possible to travel in such company, and encamp in such a manner,
as to insure protection from  assaults. If Dr. Livingstone had
been a hunter, and had sought the intimacies which have furnished the startling narratives that fill the books of other men,
he might have thought of these wilds as they do. As it was,
he passed through the "paradise of hunters" without a word
about the "splendid game."  But there is mention in his
journal of an enemy which he could not despise; which invaded with insidious malice the circle of followers, and laughed
at camp-fires and walls of mud or canvas. This was the old
disease of the bowels which had followed him so many years.
Several days were lost at Mrera, and the men speak of few
periods of even comparative health after he left that point.




THE SHORES OF TANGANYIKA.               729
On leaving Mrera, and passing the village of Simba, they
reached the range of hills overlooking the Tanganyika, and
turning southward, leaving his old route behind him. The
land was now peculiarly rough with angular fragments of
quartz. It was early in October, and in the hottest season.
The doctor complained of great fatigue and inward suffering.
The course lay along the range, a thousand feet above the surface of the lake, amid scraggy trees, whose scanty foliage afforded
a poor protection from the scorching rays. Along the shores of
the lake a great deal of cotton was under cultivation, and the
people had' devised methods of manufacturing it, by which they
provided themselves with as much clothing as their fashions
call for.
The sides of Tanganyika presented a succession of rounded
bays answering to the valleys which trended down to the shore
between the numerous ranges of hills. The hills were the
habitat of all the distinctive animals of the continent, and the
familiar traps of the natives-with whom the taking of elephants and buffaloes is more a business than a sport-were seen
daily. Every day it was the same thing-laborious marches
over mountains rising five hundred to seven hundred feet above
the passes; often fifteen hundred feet above the lake. Ordinarily there would have been outbursts of enthusiasm, in the
midst of the splendid scenery which must frequently have surrounded him; but day after day he passed in silence along those
lofty crests from which he could look down on the surface of
the lake, flashing like a golden mirror in the lengthening sunrays of evening, or reflecting like burnished silver the noontime brilliancy; or away over broken ledges and majestic ranges
of hills rich in geological curiosities and vegetable luxuriance;
or along valleys beautiful with promises of reward to intelligent
and industrious attention. It was an unusual and saddening
silence, and tells unmistakably of the sufferings with which the
journey was being performed.
He passed through Fipa and entered Urungu, and on around
the southern end of the Lake Liemba, and came among
familiar scenes again. He was here only a little more than
one month's march from Ujiji, and yet from this point he had
been obliged to turn across through Itawa, years before, and




730             THE DONKEY AND TSETSE.
submit to years of hardship and dependence, all because of the
slave-trade, which claims the prerogative of hindering all
benevolence and blocking the way of science in Afirica, only
that it may curse that unhappy continent with its degrading
slimte.
When they reached the village of Zombe-November 11ththe doctor was reminded very forcibly of that tender providence
which so frequently wrought signal deliverances for him.
Only a few months earlier that town had been surrounded by
the troops of a powerful chief, and recently he had been utterly
routed by the brothers of Zombe, who had come to his assistance in time to prevent an alliance between the besiegers and
the Arabs. Had the doctor arrived a few weeks earlier he could
not have avoided falling into the hands of most overbearing
men; and had he been able to do as he desired, he would have
arrived earlier. So it is that men very often have occasion to
praise God for disappointments. Frequently there are hopes
most fondly cherished whose realization would break our hearts
or blast all our interests.
Between Zomrbe and the beautiful Aeesy the doctor was
obliged to record the death of his donkey, which had been suffering for some time the effect of the tsetse bite. Hitherto Dr.
Livingstone had always maintained, as the result of his own
observations, that this animal, at all events, could be taken
through districts in which horses, mules, dogs, and oxen would
perish to a certainty; and with the keen perception and perseverance of one who was exploring Africa with a view to open it
up for Europeans, he laid great stress on these experiments.
He had been exceedingly anxious to demonstrate the possibility
of carrying donkeys anywhere in Africa. How far his success
or failure in doing so should affect others is a question for them
to decide. The doctor himself, however, can hardly be said to
have tested the matter thoroughly, as he mentions the fact that
his donkey had suffered ill usage and great neglect by the men
who had it in charge. The death of the donkey was a great
loss to him.
Passing the village of Kampomba, his old friend, and that of
KIasonso's successor, they turned westward, across the various
tributaries of the Kisi, until they reached the Kalongosi, at the




CROSSING THE KALONGOSI.                731
confluence of the Luena. Northward, on their right hand, as
they advanced, was Itawa, the country of Nsamna, now thoroughly conquered by the Arabs.  Before them was the town of
Casembe, who had also fallen before the Arab traders. The
mountains had been left behind, and the country was level and
covered with trees which had been stripped of their bark.
The Kalongosi was sixty or eighty yards wide and four yards
deep..The rains were now fully set in, and the daily experience was becoming one of distressing exposure, while the health
of Dr. Livingstone was gradually declining. The ravages of
the Arabs in Nsama's and Casembe's countries had made the
people of the villages timid and suspicious.  Where they were
bold enough to remain in their homes, they were distrustful and
ungenerous.
After crossing the Kalongosi they turned southward, a little
east of south. As they came nearer Lake Bangweolo there was
a manifest alteration in the face of the country.  It had been
exceedingly unpleasant travelling across the numerous feeders
of the great rivers flowing westward; but it was now becoming
one continual plunge in and out of morass and through rivers
which were only distinguishable from the surround(ing waters
by their deeper currents.  It was impossible that such exposure
should not be attended with very serious results to a man so
reduced in health and affected chronically with dysenteric symptoms.  It only astonishes us that he should have endured it so
long.  The few villages were in terror and closed their gates:
the fate of Casenmbe was too fresh in their minds to admit of
their entertaining armed strangers.
There were many plots of cassava, maize, millet, dura, groundnuts, voandzeia, in the forest, all surrounded with strong high
hedges skilfully built, and manured with wood-ashes. There
were also many flowers: marigolds, a white jonquil-looking
flower without smell, many orchids, white, yellow and pink
Asclepias, with bunches of French white flowers, clematisMethonica gloriosa, gladiolus, and blue and deep purple polygalas, grasses with white starry seed-vessels, and spikelets of
brownish red and yellow.  Besides these there were beautiful
blue flowering bulbs, and new flowers of pretty delicate form
and but little scent. To this list may be added balsams, com



732              FLOWERS AND FLOODS.
positse of blood-red color and of purple; other flowers of liver
color, bright canary yellow, pink orchids on spikes thickly
covered all round, and of three inches in length; spiderworts
of fine blue or yellow or even pink. Different colored asclepedials; beautiful yellow and red umbelliferous flowering plants;
dill and wild parsnips; pretty flowery aloes, yellow and red, in
one whorl of blossoms; peas, and many other flowering plants
which he did not know.
It is very beautiful to think of the sufferer amid such annoyances, and exposed to such hardships, noticing these delicate
features of nature with so much care and pleasure. These
beautiful flowers were like the stars which be-gem the darkness
to remind us that darkness is not absolute; or like the little
deeds of kindness, or the little happinesses, which come to us in
the midst of periods of disappointment and protracted sorrow,
to silence our murmurings and prevent our despair. Living
things instinctively drew back from the borders of the flooded
country; flowers bloomed down to the edge of the waters, and
bloomed as beautifully on every spot of exposed ground as they
could have done if there had been no floods surrounding them.
We cannot think of anything else which so happily represents
the mercies of God.
Many of the rivers had to be forded; and though it would
seem a difficult task for one entirely unencumbered to get
through, his men nobly carried him. The timidity and unfriendliness of the people greatly aggravated their condition.
They could get no reliable guide or correct information; and
the weather was such that no observations could be made on
which they could depend in shaping their course.
To be thus marching blindly, scantily provided with food,
absolutely ill much of the time, would seem to be enough to
break the stoutest spirit, yet this wonderful man never once
looked back-not one word of irresolution-but on, on, clinging
with incomprehensible pertinacity to his aim, le pressed forward. The memorandum of one day's experience will illustrate
this dreadful march:
"January 24.-Went on east and northeast to avoid the deep
part of a large river, which requires two canoes, but the men
sent by the chief would certainly hide them. Went one and




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FORDING RIVERS.                  735
three-quarters hour's journey to a large stream through drizzling
rain, at least three hundred yards of deep water, amongst sedges
and sponges of one hundred yards. One part was neck-deep
for fifty yards, and the water cold. We plunged in elephants'
foot-prints one hour and a half, then came on one hour to a
small rivulet ten feet broad, but waist-deep, bridge covered and
broken down. Carrying me across one of the broad, deep sedgy
rivers is really a very difficult task. One we crossed was at
least two thousand feet broad, or more than three hundred yards.
The first part, the main stream, came up to Susi's mouth, and
wetted my seat and legs. One held up my pistol behind, then
one after another took a turn, and when he sank into a deep
elephant's foot-print, he required two to lift him, so as to gain a
footing on the level, which was over waist-deep. Others went
on, and bent down the grass, to insure some footing on the
side of the elephants' path. Every ten or twelve paces brought
us to a clear stream, flowing fast in its own channel, while over
all a strong current came bodily through all the rushes and
aquatic plants. Susi had the first spell, then Farijala, then a
tall, stout, Arab-looking man, then Amnoda, then Chanda, then
Wade Sale, and each time I was lifted off bodily, and put on
another pair of stout, willing shoulders, and fifty yards put them
out of breath: no wonder! It was sore on the women folk of
our party. It took us full an hour and a half for all to cross
over, and several came over turn to help me and their friends.
The water was cold, and so was the wind, but no leeches plagued
us. We had to hasten on the building of sheds after crossing
the second rivulet, as rain threatened us. After 4 P. Ai. it came
on a pouring cold rain, when we were all under cover. We are
anxious about food. The lake is near, but we are not sure of
provisions, as there have been changes of population. Our
progress is distressingly slow. Wet, wet, wet; sloppy weather,
truly, and no observations, except that the land near the lake
being very level the rivers spread out into broad friths and
sponges."
The streams were so numerous that even Dr. Livingstone
himself was perplexed. The people had been unable to find
names for them, and the catalogue which we could glean from
the doctor's journal would take the premium as a punitive exer



736               THE LAST BIRTHDAY.
cise for first-class convicts. Much of the country was of course
utterly desolate. No human being could live in the midst of
such floods; all was water, water; no land; a wilderness of
water; the antipode; the scorching wilderness of sand, where
poor Chobo wandered.
The floods gave the sites of the little villages that were seen
the appearance of islands, and the doctor seems to have had the
impression that they were really in the shallow portions of the
lake. Much of the time the entire party had to be transported
firom place to place in the small, unsafe canoes of fishermen.
The old disorder recurred more frequently and violently, and
most solemn and anxious reflections forced themselves on the
sufferer. We see them in such words as the following, which
were found entered in his pocket-book: "If the good Lord
gives me favor and permits me to finish my work, I shall
thank and bless him, though it has cost me untold toil, pain,
and trouble; this trip has made my hair all gray." Only one
hope seemed to be left them; the water on the plain was deeper
and deeper. The Lofu had been crossed and the Chambeze was
before them —beyond, the island-home of Matipa. After inexpressible hardships andl perplexities, that place was reached on
the 2d of March. There was no memory or tradition of any
European having been there before. The difficulties inseparable
from the locality were increased now by the perfidy of Mapida,
who under most flattering pretences was soon found to be acting the villain. The promised canoes did not come. The days
passed, and the 19th of lctrch.  The last birthday came in the
midst of the greatest trials; on that day Dr. Livingstone wrote
the characteristic lines: " Thanks to the Almighty Preserver of
men for preserving me thus far on the journey of life. Can I
hope for ultimate success? so many obstacles have arisen! Let
not Satan prevail over me, O my Lord Jesus."  Verily, he
knew in whom he had believed; God was there: an omnipresent
God!
At length the canoes were obtained; only when the chief
and his people had received a hint that the peaceable man might
become dangerous. And on the little islet Luangwa, surrounded
by that wilderness of water, the brave man wrote again in his
journal: " Nothing earthly shall make me give up my work in




SUFFERINGS AND LONGINGS.              737
despair. I encourage myself in the Lord my God, and go forward."  At length the Chambeze was behind them, with its
rushing flood-but all was flood still. They left Kabinga's
with their baggage in canoes and the men wading beside them,
whilst the doctor himself was pulled along in a canoe nearer
the lake in deeper water. Pitiless rains from above conspired
with the floods around them. There was no escape; no respite.
The heavy exertions, coupled with constant exposure, extreme
anxiety and annoyance, inseparable from the care of so large a
party in such a realm of water, brought on another severe attack.
The 10th of April he writes: "I am pale, bloodless, and weak
from bleeding profusely ever since the 31st of March last: an
artery gives off a copious stream, and takes away my strength;"
then he exclaims: "Oh, how I long to be permitted by the
Over-power to finish my work! "
It is almost incredible that this man should still insist on
tottering along-hours at a time. But even the most powerful
will must fail some time to sustain a human body, and at last
Dr. Livingstone was obliged to submit to the kindness of his
men who were so eager to carry him, as they saw how rapidly
his strength was failing. At Chinama they were on the right
bank of the Lolotikila-the 13th of April. The dry season was
now coining on; the sky was clearing and the southeast wind
was beginning to blow. The rain-fall was estimated at seventythree inches six feet!-much the heaviest ever known in that
latitude. The doctor was able then with the stump of a pencil
to enter a rather more extensive sketch of the country than
usual; of it he says: "One sees interminable grassy prairies
with lines of trees, occupying quarters of miles in breadth, and
with these give way to bouga or prairie again. The bouga is
flooded annually, but its vegetation consists of dry-land grasses.
Other bouga extend out from the lake up to forty miles, and
are known by aquatic vegetation, such as lotus, papyrus, arums,
rushes of different species, and many kinds of purely aquatic
subaqueous plants which send up their flowers only to fructify
in the sun, and then sink to ripen one bunch after another.
Others, with great cabbage-looking leaves, seem  to remain
always at the bottom. The young of fish swarm, and bob in
and out from the leaves. A species of soft moss grows on most




738              FALLS TO THE GROUND.
plants, and seems to be good fodder for fishes, fitted by hooked
or turned-up noses to guide it into their maws.
"One species of fish has the lower jaw turned down into a
hook, which enables the animal to hold its mouth close to the
plant as it glides up or down, sucking in all the soft pulpy
food. The superabundance of gelatinous nutriment makes these
swarmers increase in bulk with extraordinary rapidity, and the
food supply of the people is plenteous in consequence. The
number of fish caught by weirs, baskets, and nets now, as the
waters decline, is prodigious.  The fish feel their element becoming insufficient for comfort, and retire from one bouga to
another towards the lake; the narrower parts are duly prepared
by weirs to take advantage of their necessities; the sun heat
seems to oppress them and force them to flee. With the southeast aerial current comes heat and sultriness. A blanket is
scarcely needed till the early hours of the morning, and here,
after the turtle-doves and cocks give out their warning calls to
the watchful, the fish-eagle lifts up his remarkable voice. It is
pitched in a high falsetto key, very loud, and seems as if he
were calling to some one in the other world. Once heard, his
weird unearthly voice can never be forgotten-rit sticks to one
through life."
A few days more he seemed to sustain his interest in the
country, but he was sinking rapidly; he became unable to do
more than make the shortest memoranda. On the 21st of April
he tried to ride on the remaining donkey, " but he had only gone
a short distance when he fell to the ground utterly exhausted
and faint. Susi immediately undid his belt and pistol, and
picked up his cap which had dropped off, while Chuma threw
down his gun and ran to stop the men on ahead. When he got
back the doctor said,'Chuma, I have lost so much blood there
is no more strength left in my legs: you must carry me.' He
was then assisted gently to his shoulders, and, holding the man's
head to steady himself, was borne back to the village and placed
in the hut he had so recently left. It was necessary to let the
chief Muanazawamba know what had happened, and for this
purpose Dr. Livingstone despatched a messenger. He was
directed to ask him  to supply a guide for the next day, as he
trusted then to have recovered so far as to be able to march;








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THE LAST WRITTEN WORDS.               743
the answer was,'Stay as long as you wish, and when you want
guides to Kalunganjovu's you shall have them."'
His servants say that instead of rallying they saw that his
strength was becoming less and less, and in order to carry him
they made a kitanda of wood, consisting of two side pieces of
seven feet in length, crossed with rails three feet long, and about
four inches apart, the whole lashed strongly together. This
framework was covered with grass, and a blanket laid on it.
Slung from a pole, and borne between two strong men, it made
a tolerable palanquin, and on this the exhausted traveller was
conveyed to the next village through a flooded grass plain. To
render the kitanda more comfortable another blanket was suspended across the pole, so as to hang down on either side, and
allow the air to pass under whilst the sun's rays were fended off
from the sick man. He was borne as tenderly as possible by
his faithful men, Chuma or Susi; one remained constantly beside him. The doctor only had strength to enter the days of
the month-22d, 23d, 24th, 25th, 26th. On the 27th he
(seems to have been almost dying."  That day he wrote his
last words; they were these:
"Knocked up quite, and remain; recover; sent to buy milch
goats.  lVe are on the banks of the Muliame."
There seems to have been an effort to get something which
he trusted would restore his strength, but the "Mazitu had
taken everything."
They were at the village of Kalunganjovu from the 27th to
the 29th. He was a generous-hearted man, and manifested
much real sympathy for the sufferer, and went himself to superintend the passage of the stream. WVhen they were ready to set
out Susi went into the hut of Dr. Livingstone, but the doctor
was unable to walk to the door. His men removed one side of
the frail abode, and placing the kitanda by the side of his bed,
lifted him gently to it, and raising the burden to their shoulders
marched out of the village.
"Their course was in the direction of the stream, and they
followed it till they came to a reach where the current was uninterrupted by the numerous little islands which stood partly in
the river and partly in the flood on the upper waters. Kalmnganjovu was seated on a knoll, and actively superintended the
38




744             CARRIED ON A KITANDA.
embarkation, whilst Dr. Livingstone told his bearers to take
him to a tree at a little distance off, that he might rest in the
shade till most of the men were on the other side. A good
deal of care was required, for the river, by no means a large one
in ordinary times, spread its waters in all directions, so that a
false step, or a stumble in any unseen hole, would have drenched
the invalid and the bed also on which he was carried.
" The passage occupied some time, and then came the difficult
task of conveying the doctor across, for the canoes were not
wide enough to allow the kitanda to be deposited in the bottom
of either of them.  Hitherto, no matter how weak, Livingstone
had always been able to sit in the various canoes they had used
on like occasions, but now he had no power to do so. Taking
his bed off the kitanda, they laid it in the bottom of the
strongest canoe, and tried to lift him; but he could not bear the
pain of a hand being passed under his back. Beckoning to
Chuma, in a faint voice he asked him to stoop down over him
as low as possible, so that he might clasp his hands together
behind his head, directing him at the same time how to avoid
putting any pressure on the lumbar region of the back; in this
way he was deposited in the bottom of the canoe, and quickly
ferried across the Mulilamo by Chowpere, Susi, Farijala, and
Chuma. The same precautions were used on the other side:
the kitanda was brought close to the canoe, so as to prevent any
unnecessary pain in disembarking.
"Susi now hurried on ahead to reach Chitambo's village, and
superintend the building of another house. For the first mile
or two they had to carry the doctor through swamps and
plashes, glad to reach something like a dry plain at last.
" It would seem that his strength was here at its very lowest
ebb. Chuma, one of his bearers on these the last weary miles
the great traveller was destined to accomplish, says that they
were every now and then implored to stop and place their burden on the ground. So great were the pangs of his disease
during this day that he could make no attempt to stand, and if
lifted for a few yards a drowsiness came over him which alarmed
them all excessively. This was specially the case at one spot
where a tree stood in thle path. Here one of his attendants was
called to him, and on stooping down he found him unable to




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THE  ASTMIL   OF  IVIGSTNE STRAELS








THE LAST MILE.                   747
speak from faintness. They replaced him in the kitanda, and
made the best of their way on the journey. Some distance farther on great thirst oppressed him; he asked them if they had
any water, but, unfortunately, for once not a drop was to be
procured. Hastening on for fear of getting too far separated
from the party in advance, to their great comfort they now saw
Farijala approaching with some which Susi had thoughtfully
sent off from Chitambo's village.
"Still wending their way on, it seemed as if they would not
complete their task, for again at a clearing the sick man entreated them to place him on the ground, and to let him stay
where he was. Fortunately at this moment some of the outlying huts of the village came into sight, and they tried to rally
him by telling him that he would quickly be in the house that
the others had gone on to build, but they were obliged as it was
to allow him to remain for an hour in the native gardens outside the town.
"On reaching their companions it was found that the work
was not quite finished, and it became necessary therefore to lay
him under the broad eaves of a native hut till things were
ready.
"Chitamtbo's village at this time was almost empty. When
the crops are growing it is the custom to erect little temporary
houses in the fields, and the inhabitants, leaving their more substantial huts, pass the time in watching their crops, which are
scarcely more safe by day than by night; thus it was that the
men found plenty of room and shelter ready to their hand.
Many of the people approached the spot where he lay whose
praises had reached them in previous years, and in silent wonder they stood round him resting on their bows. Slight drizzling showers were falling, and as soon as possible his house was
made ready and banked round with earth.
" Inside it, the bed was raised from the floor by sticks and
grass, occupying a position across and near to the bay-shaped
end of the hut: in the bay itself bales and boxes were deposited,
one of the latter doing duty for a table, on which the medicine
chest and'sundry other things were placed. A fire was lighted
outside, nearly opposite the door, whilst the boy Majwara slept
just within to attend to his master's wants in the night.




748                 THE LAST WORDS.
"On the 30th of April, 1873, Chitambo came early to pay a
visit of courtesy, and was shown into the doctor's presence, but
he was obliged to send him away, telling him to come again on
the morrow, when he hoped to have more strength to talk to
him, and he was not again disturbed. In the afternoon lihe
asked Susi to bring his watch to the bedside, and explained to
him the position in which to hold his hand, that it might lie in
the palm whilst he slowly turned the key.
"So the hours stole on till nightfall. The men silently took
to their huts, whilst others, whose duty it was to keep watch,
sat round the fires, all feeling that the end could not be far off.
About 11 P. AI. Susi, whose hut was close by, was told to go to
his master. At the time there were loud shouts in the distance,
and, on entering, Dr. Livingstone said,'Are our men making
that noise?''No,' replied Susi;'I can hear from the cries
that the people are scaring away a buffalo from their dura fields.'
A few minutes afterwards he said slowly, and evidently wandering,'Is this the Luapula?' Susi told him they were in
Chitambo's village, near the Mulilamo, when he was silent for
a while. Again, speaking to Susi, in Suaheli this time, he
said,' Sikun'gapi kuenda Luapula?' (How many days is it to
the Luapula?)
"' Na zani zikutatu, Bwana' (I think it is three days, master), replied Susi.
"A few seconds after, as if in great pain, he half sighed,
half said,' Oh dear, dear!' and then dozed off again.
" It was about an hour later that Susi heard Majwara again
outside the door,'Bwana wants you, Susi.' On reaching the
bed the doctor told him he wished him to boil some water, and
for this purpose he went to the fire outside, and soon returned
with the copper kettle full. Calling him close, he asked him to
bring his medicine-chest and to hold the candle near him, for
the man noticed he could hardly see. With great difficulty Dr.
Livingstone selected the calomel, which he told him to place by
his side; then, directing him to pour a little water into a cup,
and to put another empty one by it, he said in a low, feeble
voice,'All right; you can go out now.' These were the last
words he was ever heard to speak.
" It must have been about 4 A. Ar. when Susi heard Majwara's




-    ---------— ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ —----
EVENING-ILALA   (April 29, 181-3).:I~ — ~-~








DEATH.                      751
step once more.'Come to Bwana, I am afraid; I don't know
if he is alive.' The lad's evident alarm made Susi run to
arouse Chuma, Chowpere, Matthew, and Muanyasere, and the
six men went immediately to the hut.
"Passing inside they looked towards the bed. Dr. Livingstone was not lying on it, but appeared to be engaged in
prayer, and they instinctively drew backwards for the instant.
Pointing to him, Majwara said,' When I lay down he was just
as he is now, and it is because I find that he does not move
that I fear he is dead.' They asked the lad how long he had
slept. Majwara said he could not tell, but he was sure that it
was some considerable time: the men drew nearer.
"A candle stuck by its own wax to the top of the box shed
a light sufficient for them to see his form. Dr. Livingstone was
kneeling by the side of his bed, his body stretched forward, his
head buried in his hands upon the pillow. For a minute they
watched him: he did not stir, there was no sign of breathing;
then one of them, Matthew, advanced softly to him and placed
his hands to his cheeks. It was sufficient; life had been extinct some time, and the body was almost cold: Livingstone
was dead.
"His sad-hearted servants raised him tenderly up and laid
him at full length on the bed, then carefully covering him
they went out into the damp night air to consult together. It
was not long before the cocks crew, and the morning of the 1st
of May dawned on the scene."
There were no parting words. There were thoughts. God
only knows them. Alone, on his knees, in the heart of Africa,
the brave, good man died. His life had been a sacrifice; his
death was a supplication. He did not give up his work; he
resigned it to God.




CHAPTER XXXV.
BURIAL AT WESTMINSTER ABBEY.
The Acknowledgment-Anxieties of the Men-The Council-Chuma and Susi
-Chitambo's Kindness-Native Honors to the Dead-Hut where the Body
was Prepared-The Materials for Preparing the Body-A Special MournerThe Embalmment-The Inscription-Preparation for Departing-Promises of
Chitambo-Route of Boys-Severe Trials-The Luapula-Crossing-An Old
Servant-An Accident-Native Surgery-"An Unfortunate Affair " —The
Fight-The Results-The Excuse-Objection to Flags-The Kalongosi-In
the Old Path-The Lake-New Scenes-Easier Route to Unyanyembe-The
News Received-Resolution of the Men-Justifiable Deception-A Dreadful
Snake-Arrival at Bagamoio-The Precious Freight-The Kilwa-Reception
in England-Identification-Burial.
TEIE curtan falls; the drama of a wonderful life is closed.
The work is ended; the hero died at his post. It remains
only for us to see how faithfully his followers cared for his
remains, and how well and bravely they won for themselves
the gratitude and applause of the civilized world.  It has been
necessary to introduce the accounht of the leaders of the caravan
in the homeward march so closely, that it is due the Rev. Horace
Waller, the distinguished editor of the "Last Journals," and also
Mr. John Murray, of London, the publisher, to accredit them
with it.  We feel that the readers of this book will appreciate
having this narrative as fully as possible, and we feel confident
also that the gentlemen named will appreciate our motives in
using these few pages of their work.
It was not without some alarm that the men realized their
more immediate difficulties: none could see better than they
what complications might arise in an hour.
They knew the superstitious horror connected with the dead
to be prevalent in the tribes around them, for the departed
spirits of men are universally believed to have vengeance and
mischief at heart as their ruling idea in the land beyond the
grave.  All rites turn on this belief.  The religion of the
African is a weary attempt to propitiate those who show them752




SUSI AND CHUMA.                  753
selves to be still able to haunt and destroy, as war comes or an
accident happens.
On this account it is not to be wondered at that chief and
people make common cause against those who wander through
their territory, an(l have the misfortune to lose one of their
party by death. Who is to tell the consequences'? Such occurrences are looked on as most serious offences, and the men
regarded their position with no small apprehension.
Calling the whole party together, Susi and Chuma placed
the state of affairs before them, and asked what should be done.
They received a reply from those whom Mr. Stanley had engaged for Dr. Livingstone, which was hearty and unanimous.
"You," said they, " are old men in travelling and in hardships;
you must act as our chiefs, and we will promise to obey whatever you order us to do." From this moment we may look on
Susi and Chuma as the captains of the caravan.  To their
knowledge of the country, of the tribes through which they
were to pass, but, above all, to the sense of discipline and cohesion which was maintained throughout, their safe return to
Zanzibar at the head of their men must, under God's good
guidance, be mainly attributed.
All agreed that Chitambo ought to be kept in ignorance of
Dr. Livingstone's decease, or otherwise a fine so heavy would be
inflicted upon them as compensation for damage done that their
means would be crippled, and they could hardly expect to pay
their way to the coast. It was decided that, come what might,
the body must be borne to Zanzibar. It was also arranged to
take it secretly, if possible, to a hut at some distance off, where
the necessary preparations could be carried out, and for this
purpose some men were now despatched with axes to cut wood,
whilst others went to collect grass. Chuma set off to see Chitambo, and said that they wanted to build a place outside the
village, if he would allow it, for they did not like living amongst
the huts. His consent was willingly given.
Later on in the day two of the men went to the people to buy
food, and divulged the secret: the chief was at once informed
of what had happened, and started for the spot on which the
new buildings were being set up. Appealing to Chuma, he
said, "Why did you not tell nce the truth?  I know that your




754              CHITAMBO'S KINDNESS.
master died last night. You were afraid to let me know, but
do not fear any longer. I, too, have travelled, and more than
once have been to Bwani (the coast), before the country on the
road was destroyed by the Mazitu. I know that you have no
bad motives in coming to our land, and death often happens to
travellers in their journeys."  Reassured by this speech, they
told him of their intention to prepare the body and to take it
with them. He, however, said it would be far better to bury it
there, for they were undertaking an impossible task; but they
held to their resolution. The corpse was conveyed to the new
hut the same day on the kitanda, carefully covered with cloth
and a blanket.
The next morning Susi paid a visit to Chitambo, making hin
a handsome present and receiving in return a kind welcome.
Following out his suggestion, it was agreed that all honors
should be shown to the dead, and the customary mourning was
arranged forthwith.
At the proper time, Chitambo, leading his people and accompanied by his wives, came to the new settlement. He was clad
in a broad red cloth, which covered the shoulders, whilst the
wrapping of native cotton cloth, worn round the waist, fell as
low as his ankles. All carried bows, arrows, and spears, but no
guns were seen. Two drummers joined in the loud wailing
lamentation, which so indelibly impresses itself on the memories
of people who have heard it in the East, whilst the band of servants fired volley after volley in the air, according to the strict
rule of Portuguese and Arabs on such occasions.
As yet nothing had been done to the corpse.
A separate hut was now built, about ninety feet from the
principal one. It was constructed in such a manner that it
should be open to the air at the top, and sufficiently strong to
defy the attempts of any wild beast to break through it.
Firmly driven boughs and saplings were planted side by side
and bound together, so as to make a regular stockade. Close to
this building-the men constructed their huts, and, finally, the
whole settlement had another high stockade carried completely
around it.
Arrangements were made the same day to treat the corpse
on the following morning. One of the men, Safene, whilst in




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A SPECIAL MOURNER.                   757
Kalunganjovu's district, bought a large quantity of salt: this
was purchased of him for sixteen strings of beads; there was
besides some brandy in the doctor's stores, and with these few
materials they hoped to succeed in their object.
Farijala was appointed to the necessary task. He had picked
up some knowledge of the method pursued in making postmortem  examinations whilst a servant to a doctor at Zanzibar, and, at his request, Carras, one of the Nassick boys, was
told off to assist him. Previous to this, however, early on the
3d of May, a special mourner arrived. He came with the
anklets which are worn on these occasions, composed of rows of
hollow seed-vessels, fitted with rattling pebbles, and in a low
monotonous chant sang, whilst he danced, as follows:
Lelo kwa Engerese,
Muana sisi oa konda:
Tu kamb' tamb' Engerese.
Which translated isTo-day the Englishman is dead,
Who has different hair from ours:
Come round to see the Englishman.
His task over, the mourner and his son, who accompanied him
in the ceremony, retired with a suitable present of beads.
The emaciated remains of the deceased traveller were soon
afterwards taken to the place prepared. Over the heads of
Farijala and Carras —Susi, Chuma, and Muanyasere held a
thick blanket as a kind of screen, under which the men performed their duties. Tofike and John Wainwright were present.
Jacob Wainwright had been asked to bring his prayer book
with him, and stood apart against the wall of the enclosure.
In reading about the lingering sufferings of Dr. Livingstone
as described by himself, and subsequently by these faithful
fellows, one is quite prepared to understand their explanation,
and to see why it was possible to defer these operations so long
after death: they say that his frame was little more than' skin
and bone. Through an incision carefully made, the viscera
were removed, and a quantity of salt was placed in the trunk.
All noticed one very significant circumstance in the autopsy.
A clot of coagulated blood, as large as a man's hand, lay in the
left side; whilst Farijala pointed to the state of the lungs,




758         THE PREPARATION OF THE BODY.
which they describe as dried up, and covered with black and
white patches.
The heart, with the other parts removed, were placed in a tin
box, which had formerly contained flour, and decently and
reverently buried in a hole dug some four feet deep on the spot
where they stood. Jacob was then asked to read the burial
service, which he did in the presence of all. The body was left
to be fully exposed to the sun. No other means were taken to
preserve it, beyond placing some brandy in the mouth and
some on the hair; nor call one imagine for an instant tflat any
other process would have been available either for Europeans or
natives, considering the rude appliances at their disposal. The
men kept watch day and night to see that no harm came to their
sacred charge. Their huts surrounded the building, and had
force been used to enter its strongly-barred door, the whole
camp would have turned out in a moment. Once a day the
position of the body was changed, but at no other time was any
one allowed to approach it.
No molestation of any kind took place during the fourteen
days' exposure. At the end of this period preparations were
made for retracing their steps. The corpse, by this time tolerably dried, was wrapped round in some calico, the legs being
bent inwards at the knees to shorten the package. The next
thing was to plan something in which to carry it, and, in the
absence of planking or tools, an admirable substitute was found
by stripping -from a Myonga tree enough of the bark'in one
piece to form a cylinder, and in it their master was laid. Over
this case a piece of sail-cloth was sewn, and the whole package
was lashed securely to a pole, so as to be carried by two men.
Jacob Wainwright was asked to carve an inscription on the
large Mvula tree which stands by the place where the body
rested, stating the name of Dr. Livingstone and the date of his
death, and, before leaving, the men gave strict injunctions to
Chitambo to keep the grass cleared away, so as to save it from
the bush fires which annually sweep over the country and
destroy so many trees. Besides this, they erected close to the
spot two high thick posts, with an equally strong cross-piece,
like a lintel and door-posts in form, which they painted thoroughly with the tar that was intended for the boat; this sign




RETURN ROUTE.                    759
they think will remain for a long time from the solidity of the
timber. Before parting with Chitambo, they gave him a large
tin biscuit-box and some newspapers, which would serve as
evidence to all future travellers that a white man had been at
his village.
The chief promised to do all he could to keep both the tree
and the timber sign-posts from  being touched, but added, that
he hoped the English would not be long in coming to see him,
because there was always the risk of an invasion of Mazitu,
when he would have to fly, and the tree might be cut down for
a canoe by some one, and then all trace would be lost. All was
now ready for starting, and the homeward march was begun.
But the first day's journey showed them that some additional
precautions were necessary to enable the bearers of the mournful
burden to keep to their task, and they sent back to Chitambo's
for the cask of tar they had deposited with him, and gave a
thick coating to the canvas outside. This answered all purposes; they left the remainder at the next village, with orders
to send it back to head-quarters, and then continued their
course through Ilala, led by their guides in the direction of the
Luapula.
A moment's inspection of the map will explain the line of
country to be traversed. Susi and Chuma had travelled with
Dr. Livingstone in the neighborhood of the northwest shores of
Bangweolo in previous years. The last fatal road from the
north might be struck by a march in a due northeast direction,
if they could but hold out so far without any serious misfortune;
but in order to do this they must first strike northwards so as to
reach the Luapula, and then crossing it at some part not necessarily far from its exit from the lake, they could at once lay
their course for the south end of Tanganyika.
There were, however, serious indications amongst them.
First one and then the other dropped out of the file, and by the
time they reached a town belonging to Chitambo's brother —and
on the third day only since they set out-half their number
were hots de combat. It was impossible to go on. A few hours
more and all seemed affected. The symptoms were intense pain
in the limbs and face, great prostration, and, in the bad cases,
inability to move. The men attributed it to the continual




760                  THE LUAPULA.
wading through water before the doctor's death. They think
that illness had been waiting for some further slight provocation, and that the previous day's tramp, which was almost
entirely through plashy Bougas or swamps, turned the scale
against them.
Susi was suffering very much. The disease settled in one
leg, and then quickly shifted to the other. Songolo nearly died.
Kaniki and Bahati, two of the women, expired in a few days,
and all looked at its worst. It took them a good month to
rally sufficiently to resume their journey.
Fortunately in this interval the rains entirely ceased, and the
natives day by day brought an abundance of food to the sick
men. From them they heard that the districts they were now
in were notoriously unhealthy, and that many an Arab had
fallen out from the caravan march to leave his bones in these
wastes. One day five of the party made an excursion to the
westward, and on their return reported a large deep river flowing into the Luapula on the left bank.  Unfortunately no
notice was taken of its name, for it would be of considerable
geographical interest.
At last they were ready to start again, and came to one of the
border villages in Ilala the same night, but the. next day several
fell ill for the second titne, Susi being quite unable to move.
Muanamazungu, at whose place these relapses occurred, was
fully aware of everything that had taken place at Chitambo's,
and showed the men the greatest kindness. "Not a day passed
without his bringing them some present or other, but there was
a great disinclination amongst the people to listen to any details
connected with Dr. Livingstone's death. Some return for their
kindness was made by Farijala shooting three buffaloes near the
town: meat and good-will go together all over Africa, and the
liberal sportsman scores points at many a turn. A cow was
purchased here for some brass bracelets and calico, and on the
twentieth day all were sufficiently strong on their legs to push
forwards.
The broad waters of the long-looked-for Luapula soon came
in sight. Putting themselves under a guide, they were conducted to the village of Chisalamalarnma, who willingly offered
them canoes for the passage across the next day.




DR. LIVINGSTONE  S MOSQUITO CURTAIN.
AN OLD SERVANT DESTROYED.








CROSSING THE LUAPULA.                763
Tile report that the men give of this mighty river makes us
instinctively bend our eyes on the dark burden laid in the
canoe. How ardently would he have scanned it whose body
thus passes across these waters, and whose spirit, in its last
hours' sojourn in this world, wandered in thought and imagination to its stream!
It would seem that the Luapula at this point is double the
width of the Zambesi at Shupanga. This gives a breadth of
fully four miles. A man could not be seen on the opposite
bank: trees looked small: a gun could be heard, but no shouting would ever reach a person across the river-such is the
description given by men who were well able to compare the
Luapula with the Zambesi. Taking to the canoes, they were
able to use the "m'phondo," or punting pole, for a distance
through reeds, then came clear deep water for some four hundred yards, again a broad reedy expanse, followed by another
deep part, succeeded in turn by another current not so broad as
those previously paddled across, and then, as on the starting
side, gradually shoaling water, abounding in reeds.  Two
islands lay just above the crossing-place. Using pole and paddle alternately, the passage took them fully two hours across
this enormous torrent, which carries off the waters of Bangweolo
towards the north.
A sad mishap befell the donkey the first night of camping
beyond the Luapula, and this faithful and sorely-tried servant
was doomed to end his career at this spot.
According to custom, a special stable was built for him close
to the men. in the middle of the night a great disturbance,
coupled with the shouting of Amoda, aroused the camp. The
men rushed out and found the stable broken down and the
donkey gone. Snatching some logs, they set fire to the grass,
as it was pitch dark, and by the light saw a lion close to the
body of the poor animal, which was quite dead. Those who
had caught up their guns on the first alarm fired a volley, and
the lion made off. It was evident that the donkey had been
seized by the nose and instantly killed. At daylight the spoor
showed that the guns had taken effect. The lion's blood lay in
a broad track (for he was apparently injured in the back, and
could only drag himself along); but the footprints of a second




764            FATE OF AN OLD SERVANT.
lion were too plain to make it advisable to track him far in the
thick cover he had reached, and so the search was abandoned.
The body of the donkey was left behind, but two canoes remained near the village, and it is most probable that it went to
make a feast at Chisalamalama's.
Travelling through incessant swamp and water, they were
fain to make their next stopping-place in a spot where an enormous ant-hill spread itself out-a small island in the waters.
A fire was lit, and by employing hoes, most of them dug something like a form to sleep in on the hard earth. Thankful to
leave such a place, they passed Kawingu and came to N'Kossu's.
The people were called Kawende; they formerly owned many
cattle, but were now reduced. They had been put under the
harrow by the Wanyamwezi, and there were very few herds
remaining. A present was made of a cow; but it seems that
the rule, "first catch your hare," was in full force in N'Kossu's
pastures: the few animals were exceeding wild, and a hunt was
set on foot to obtain the present. In this hunt one of our party
unfortunately shot a villager, and broke the poor fellow's thigh.
Although it was clearly an accident, such things do not readily
settle themselves down on such an assumption in Africa. The
chief, however, behaved well.  He told the men that a fine
would have to be paid on the return of the wounded man's
father, and it had better be handed to him; for by the law the
blame would fall on him as the entertainer of the man who had
brought about the injury. He admitted that he had ordered all
his people to stand clear of the spot where the disaster occurred,
but he supposed that in this instance his orders had not been
heard. They had not sufficient goods in any case to respond to
the demand; and there was only one thing left-the leg must be
mended. The process adopted to set the broken limb is a
sample of native surgery which must not be passed over.
First of all a hole was dug, say two feet deep and four in
length, in such a manner that the patient could sit in it with
his legs out before him. A large leaf was then bound round
the fractured thigh, and earth thrown in, so that the patient
was buried up to the chest. The next act was to cover the
earth which lay over the man's legs with a thick layer of mud;
then plenty of sticks and grass were collected, and a fire lit on




'~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ —-Z~:..'
c~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ —-_.:i,?t/.'/-,
CATCHIING AINTS.
____..._.__.~i%27 "
~~~~~.S;/                                   -___
- -~ -~ —-— ~
KAWLNDF~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ SU"IRERY.
Ii)!iIl-;Bg~\\\~n s~r ~ ~ ~2,~~
/~"'7 -— ~'
~,.~       r
CATCHI~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~SG  ANTS.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~h~~~~~-~~~~1=rz~~ ~~~~~i~!
KAWENDE SURGERY.   --








NATIVE SURGERY.                  767
top just over the fracture. To prevent the smoke smothering
the sufferer, they held a broad mat as a screen before his face,
and the operation went on. After some time the heat reached
the limbs under-ground.  Bellowing with fear and covered with
perspiration, the man implored them to let him out. CWhen the
authorities concluded he had been under treatment a sufficient
time, they quickly burrowed down and lifted him out. He was
now held perfectly fast, whilst two strong men stretched the
wounded limb with all their might.  Splints duly prepared
were afterwards bound around it; but we are left to hope only
that the poor man was restored the use of his limb. The villagers told Chuma that after the Wanyamwezi engagements
they constantly treated the bad gunshot wounds in this way
with perfect success.
Leaving this village, the men made for the territory of the
Wa Ussi. Here they met with a surly welcome, and were told
that they must pass on. There is no doubt that the intelligence
that they were carrying their master had something to do with
it, for the news seemed to spread with the greatest rapidity in
every direction.
They were now approaching Chawende's town, parallel to
the north shore of the lake, and at no great distance from it, on
the bank of the Liposhosi river.
Approaching Chawende's, according to native etiquette,
Amoda and Sabouri went on in front to inform the chief and
ask leave to enter the town. As they did not come back,
Muanyasere and Chuma set off after them to ascertain the
reason of the delay. No better success seemed to attend this
second venture, so shouldering their burdens, all went forward
in the track of the four messengers.
In the mean time, Chuma and Muanyasere met Amoda and
Sabouri coining back towards them with five men. They
reported that they had entered the town, but found it a very
large stockaded place; moreover, two other villages of equal
size were close to it.  Much pombe-drinking was going on.
On approaching the chief, Amoda had rested his gun against
the principal hut innocently enough. Chawende's son, drunk
and quarrelsome, made this a cause of offence, and swaggering
up, he insolently asked them how they dared to do such a




768           "AN UNFORTUNATE AFFAIR."
thing. Chawende interfered, and for the moment prevented
further difficulty; in fact, he himself seems to have been inclined to grant the favor which, was asked: however, there was
danger brewing, and the men retired.
When the main body met them returning, tired with- their
fruitless errand, a consultation took place. Wood there was
none. To scatter about and find materials with which to build
shelter for the night, would only offer a great temptation to
these drunken excited people to plunder the baggage. It was
resolved to make for the town.
When they reached the gate of the stockade they were flatly
refused admittance, those inside telling them to go down to
the river and camp on the bank. They replied that this was
impossible: that they were tired, it was very late, and nothing
could be found there to give them shelter. Meeting with no
different answer, Safene said, "Why stand talking to them?
let us get in somehow or other;" and, suiting the action to the
word, they pushed the men back who stood in the gateway.
Safene got through, and Muanyasere climbed over the top of
the stockade, followed by Chuma, who instantly opened the
gate wide and let his companions through. Hostilities might
still have been averted had better counsel prevailed.
The men began to look about for huts in which to deposit
their things, when the same drunken fellow drew a bow and
fired at Muanyasere. The man called out to the others to
seize him, which was done in an instant. A loud cry now burst
forth that the chief's son was in danger, and one of the people,
hurling a spear, wounded Sabouri slightly in the thigh: this
was the signal for a general scrimmage.
Chawende's men fled from the town; the drums beat the
assembly in all directions, and an immense number flocked to
the spot from the two neighboring villages, armed with their
bows, arrows, and spears. An assault instantly began fromn the
outside. N'chise was shot with an arrow in the shoulder through
the palisade, and N'taru in the finger. Things were becoming
desperate for the caravan, so, putting the body of Dr. Livingstone and all their goods and chattels in one hut, the men charged
out of the town, and fired on the assailants, killing two and
wounding several others. Fearing that they would only gather




END OF THE FIGHT.                  769
together in the other remaining villages and renew the attack
at night, the men carried these quickly one by one and subsequently burnt six others which were built on the same side of
the river, then crossing over, they fired on the canoes which
were speeding towards the deep water of Bangweolo, through the
channel of the Liposhosi, with disastrous results to the fugitive
people.
Returning to the town, all was made safe for the night. By
the fortunes of war, sheep, goats, fowls, and an immense quantity
of food fell into their hands; and they remained for a week to
recruit. Once or twice they found men approaching at night
to throw fire on the roofs of the huts from outside, but with this
exception they were not interfered with. On the last day but
one a man approached and called to them at the top of his voice
not to set fire to the chief's town (it was his that they occupied);
for the bad son had brought all this upon them; he added that
the old man had been overruled, and they were sorry enough
for his bad conduct.
With the account given of this occurrence before us, we cannot
but lament the loss of lifi and the whole circumstances of the
fight. Whilst on the one hand we may imagine that the loss
of a cool, conciliatory, brave leader was here felt in a grave degree, we must also see that it was known far and wide that this
very loss was now a great weakness to his followers. There is
no surer signs of mischief in Africa than these trumpery charges
of bewitching houses by placing things on them: some such
overstrained accusation is generally set in the front rank when
other difficulties are to come: drunkenness is pretty much the
same thing in all parts of the world, and gathers misery around
it as easily in an African village as in an English city. Had
the cortege submitted to extortion and insult, they felt that their
night by the river would have been a precarious one-even if
they had been in a humor to sleep in a swamp when a town was
at hand. These things gave occasion to them to resort to force.
The desperate nature of their whole enterprise in starting for
Zanzibar perhaps had accumulated its own stock of determination, and now it found vent under evil provocation. If there
is room for any other feeling than regret, it lies in the fact that,
on mature consideration and in sober moments, the people who
suffered cast the real blame on the right shoulders.
39




770               OBJECTION TO FLAGS.
For the next three days after leaving Chawende's they were
still in the same inundated fringe of bouga which surrounds the
lake, and on each occasion had to camp at nightfall wherever a
resting-place could be' found in the jungle, reaching Chama's
village on the fourth day. A delay of forty-eight hours was
necessary, as Susi's wife fell ill; and for the next few marches
she was carried in a kitanda. They met an Unyamwesi man
here, who had come from Kmumbakumba's town in the Wa Ussi
district. He related to them  how on two occasions the Wanyamwesi had tried to carry Chawende's town by assault, but had
been repulsed both times. But with the strong footing these
invaders have in the country, armed as they are with the muchdreaded guns, it can only be a matter of time before the whole
rule, such as it is, passes into their hands.
A few days brought them near to Chiwaie's town, which they
describe as a very strong place, fortified with a stockade and
ditch. Shortly before reaching it, some villagers tried to pick a
quarrel with them for carrying flags. It was their invariable
custom to make the drummer-boy, Majwara, march at their
head, whilst the Union Jack and the red colors of Zanzibar were
carried in a foremost place in the line. Fortunately a chief of
some importance came up and stopped the discussion, or there
might have been more nlischief, for the men were in no temper
to lower their flag, knowing their own strength pretty well by
this time. Making their settlement close to Chiwaie's, they
met with much kindness, and were visited by crowds of the
inhabitants.
Three days' journey brought them to Chiwaie's uncle's village;
sleeping two nights in the jungle they made Chungu's, and in
another day's march found themselves, to their great delight, at
Kapesha's.
They saw at this place a large quantity of iron and copper
wire being made by a party of Wanyamwesi. The process is
described as follows: A heavy piece of iron, with a funnel-shaped
hole in it, is firmly fixed in the fork of a tree. A fine rod is
then thrust into it, and a line attached to the first few inches
which can be coaxed through. A number of men haul on this
line, singing and dancing in tune, and thus it is drawn through
the first drill; it is subsequently passed through others to render




THE KALONGOSI.                  771
it still finer, and excellent wire is the result. Leaving Kapesha,
they went through many of the villages already enumerated in
Dr. Livingstone's diary. Chama's people came to see them
as they passed by him, and after some mutterings and growlings
Casongo gave them  leave to buy food at his town.  Reaching
Chama's head-quarters they camped outside, and received a civil
message, telling them to convey his orders to the people on the
banks of the Kalongosi that the travellers must be ferried safely
across. They found great fear and misery prevailing in the
neighborhood from the constant raids made by Kumbakumba's
men.
Leaving the Kalongosi behind them they made for M'sama's
son's town, meeting four men on the way who were going from
Kumbakumba to Chama to beat up recruits for an attack on
the Katanga people. The request was sure to be met with
alarm and refusal, but it served very well to act the part taken
by the wolf in the fable. A grievance would immediately be
made of it, and Chama "eaten up" in due course for daring to
gainsay the stronger man. Such is too frequently the course of
native oppression. At last Kumbakumba's town came in sight.
Already the large district of Itawa had tacitly allowed itself to
be put under the harrow by this ruffianly Zanzibar Arab.
Black-mail is levied in all directions, and the petty chiefs,
although really under tribute to Nsanma, are sagacious enough
to keep in with the powers that be.
The talk was still about the break-up of Casembe's power;
but by far the most interesting news that reached them was that
a party of Englishmen, headed by Dr. Livingstone's son, on
their way to relieve his father, had been seen at Bagamoio some
months previously.
The chief showed them every kindness during their five days'
rest, and was most anxious that no mishap should by any chance
occur to their principal charge.
Marching was now much easier, and the men quickly found
they had crossed the watershed. The Lofu ran in front of them
on its way to Tanganyika. The Kalongosi, we have seen, flows
to Lake 3Moero in the opposite direction. More to their purpose it was perhaps to find the terror of Kumbakumba dying
away as they travelled in a northeasterly direction, and came




772                IN THE OLD PATH.
amongst the Mwambi. As yet no invasion had taken place.
A young chief, Chungu, did all he could for them; for, when
the doctor explored these regions before, Chungu had been much
impressed with him, and now, throwing off all the native superst.ition, he looked on the arrival of the dead body as a cause of
real sorrow.
Asoumani had some luck in hunting, and a fine buffalo was
killed near the town. According to native game-laws (which
in some respects are exceedingly strict in Africa), Chungu had
a right to a fore-leg —had it been an elephant the tusk next the
ground would have been his, past all doubt-in this instance,
however, the men sent in a plea that theirs was no ordinary
case, and that hunger had laws of its own; they begged to be
allowed to keep the whole carcass, and Chungu not only listened
to their story, but willingly waived his claim to the chief's
share.
It is to be hoped that these sons of Tafuina, the head and
father of the Amambwi a lungu, may hold their own. They
seem a superior race, and this man is described as a worthy
leader. His brothers, Kasonso, Chitimbwa, Sombe, and their
sister, Mombo, are all notorious for their reverence for Tafuna.
In their villages an abundance of colored home-spun cloth
speaks for their industry; whilst from the number of dogs and
elephant-spears no further testimony is needed to show that the
character they bear as great hunters is well deserved.
The steep descent to the lake now lay before them, and they
caine to Kasakalawe's. Here it was that the doctor had passed
weary months of illness on his first approach to Tanganyika in
previous years. The village contained but few of its old inhabitants, but those few received them hospitably enough and
mourned the loss of him who had been so well appreciated when
alive. So they journeyed on day by day till the southern end
of the lake was rounded.
The previous experience of the difficult route along the heights
bordering on Tanganyika made them determine to give the lake
a wide berth this time, and for this purpose they held well to-the
eastward, passing a number of small deserted villages, in one of
-Aich they camped nearly every night. It was necessary to go
through the Fipa country, but they learned from one man and




NEW SCENES.                    773
another that the chief, Kafoofi, was very anxious that the body
should not be brought near to his town —indeed, a guide was
purposely thrown in their way who led them past it by a considerable detour.
This road across the plain seems incomparably the best. No
difficulty whatever was experienced, and one cannot but lamentthe toil and weariness which Dr. Livingstone endured whilst
holding a course close to Tanganyika, although we must bear
in mind that by no other means at the time could he complete
his survey of this great inland sea, or acquaint us with its harbors, its bays, and the rivers which find their way into it on
the east.
The chief feature after leaving this point was a three days'
march over Lambalamfipa, an abrupt mountain range, which
crosses the country east and west, and attains, it would seem, an
altitude of some four thousand feet. Looking down on the
plain from its highest passes a vast lake appears to stretch away
in front towards the north, but on descending this resolves itself
into a glittering plain, for the most part covered with saline incrustations. The path lay directly across this. The difficulties
they anticipated had no real existence, for small villages were
found, and water was not scarce, although brackish. The first
demand for toll was made near here, but the head man allowed
them to pass for fourteen strings of beads. Susi says that this
plain was literally swarming with herds of game of all kinds:
giraffe and zebra were particularly abundant, and lions revelled
in the splendid quarters. The settlements they came to belonged
chiefly to elephant hunters, and the skill of Farijala and lMuanyasere brought plenty of beef into camp.
As they approached the Likwa, a long string of men was seen
on the opposite side filing down to the water, and being uncertain of their intentions, precautions were quickly taken to insure
the safety of the baggage. Dividing themselves into three parties, the first detachment went across to meet the strangers,
carrying the Arab flag in front. Chuma headed another band
at a little distance in the rear of these, whilst Susi and a few
more crouched in the jungle, with the body concealed in 4
roughly-made hut. Their fears, however, were needless: it
turned out to be a caravan bound for Fipa to hunt elephants




774          CHUMA, REACHES UNYANYEMBE.
and buy ivory and slaves. The new arrivals told them that
they had come straight through Unyanyembe from Bagamoio,
on the coast, and that the doctor's death had already been reported there by natives of Fipa.
With no small satisfaction the men learned from the outwardbound caravan that the previous story was a true one, and they
were assured that Dr. Livingstone's son with two Englishmen
and a quantity of goods had already reached Unyanyembe.
The country here showed all the appearance of a salt-pan;
indeed a quantity of very good salt was collected by one of the
men, who thought he could turn an honest bunch of beads with
it at Unyanyembe.
When they arrived at Baula, Jacob Wainwright, the scribe of
the party, was commissioned to write an account of the distressing circumstances of the doctor's death, and Chuma, taking
three men with him, pressed on to deliver it to the English
party in person. The rest of the cortege followed them through
the jungle to Chilunda's village.
The MIanyara river was crossed on its way to Tanganyika
before they got to Chikooloo.  Leaving this village behind
them, they advanced to the Ugunda district, now ruled by
Kalimangombi, the son of Mbereke, the former chief, and so on
to Kasekera, which, it will be remembered, is not far from
Unyanyembe.
When Chuma reached the Arab settlement, Lieutenant Cameron was quickly put in possession of the main facts of Dr.
Livingstone's death by reading Jacob's letter, and Chuma was
questioned concerning it in the presence of Dr. Dillon and
Lieutenant Murphy. It was a disappointment to find that the
reported arrival of Mr. Oswell Livingstone was entirely erroneous; but Lieutenant Cameron showed the way-worn men every
kindness. Chuma rested one day before setting out to relieve
his comrades, to whom he had arranged to make his way as soon
as possible. Lieutenant Cameron expressed a fear that it would
not be safe for him to carry the cloth he was willing to furnish
them with if he had not a stronger convoy, as he himself had
suffered too sorely from terrified bearers on his way thither; but
the young fellows were pretty well acquainted with native
marauders by this time, and set off without apprehension.




THE RESOLUTION OF THE MEN.              775
And now the greater part of their task is over. The weatherbeaten company wind their way into the well-known settlement
of Kwihara. A host of Arabs and their attendant slaves meet
them as they sorrowfully conveyed their charge to the same
tembe in which the " weary waiting" was endured before, and
then they submitted to the systematic questioning which the
native traveller is so well able to sustain.
Mirambo's war dragged on its length, and matters had
changed very little since they were there before, either fobr better
or for worse. They found the English officers extremely short
of goods; but Lieutenant Cameron, no doubt with the object of
his expedition full in view, very properly felt it a first duty to
relieve the wants of the party that had performed this herculean
feat of bringing the body of the traveller he had been sent to
relieve, together with every article belonging to him at the time
of his death, as far as this main road to the coast.
Serious doubts were entertained by Lieutenant Cameron
whether the risk of taking the body of Dr. Livingstone through
the Ugogo country ought to be run. It very naturally occurred
to him that Dr. Livingstone might have felt a wish during life
to be buried in the same land in which the remains of his wife
lay, for it will be remembered that the grave of Mrs. Livingstone is at Shupanga, on the Zambesi. All this was put before
the men, but they steadily adhered to their first convictionthat it was right at all risks to attempt to bear their master
home, and they were no longer urged to bury him at Kwihara.
By making a ten days' detour at " Jua Singa," and travelling
by a path well known to one of their party through the jungle
of Poll ya vengi, they hoped to avoid the Wagogo and keep
out of harm's way, and to be able to make the cloth hold out
with which they were supplied.
Making an early start, the body was carried to KIasekera by
Susi's party, where, from an evident disinclination to receive it
into the village, an encampment was made outside. A consultation now became necessary. There was no disguising the fact
that if they kept along the main road intelligence would precede them concerning that in which they were engaged, stirring
up certain hostility and jeopardizing the most precious charge
they had. A plan was quickly hit upon. Unobserved, the




776             JUSTIFIABLE DECEPTION.
men removed the corpse of the deceased explorer from the
package in which it had hitherto been conveyed, and buried the
bark case in the hut in the thicket around the village in which
they had placed it. The object now was to throw the villagers
off their guard, by making believe that they had relinquished
the attempt to carry the body to Zanzibar. They feigned that
they had abandoned their task, having changed, their minds,
and that it must be sent back to Unyanyembe to be buried
there. In the mean time the corpse of necessity had to be concealed in the smallest space possible, if they were, actually to
convey it secretly for the future; this was quickly managed.
Susi and Chuma went into the wood and stripped off a fresh
length of bark from an N'gombe tree; in this the remains,
conveniently prepared as to length, were placed, the whole being
surrounded with calico in such a manner as to appear like an
ordinary travelling bale, which was then deposited with the rest
of the goods. They next proceeded to gather a fagot of
mapira-stalks, cutting them in lengths of six feet or so, and
swathing them round with cloth to imitate a dead body about
to be buried. This done, a paper, folded so as to represent a
letter, was duly placed in a cleft stick, according to the native
letter-carrier's custom, and six trustworthy men were told off
ostensibly to go with the corpse to Unyanyembe. With due
solemnity the men set out; the villagers were only too thankful
to see it, and no one suspected the ruse. It was near sundown.
The bearers of the package held on their way, till fairly beyond
all chance of detection, and then began to dispose of their load.
The mapira-sticks were thrown one by one far away into the
jungle, and when all were disposed of, the wrappings were
cunningly got rid of in the same way. Going farther on, first
one man, and then another, sprung clear from the path into the
long grass, to leave no trace of footsteps, and the whole party
returned by different ways to their companions, who had been
anxiously awaiting them during the night. No one could detect the real nature of the ordinary-looking bale which, henceforth, was guarded with no relaxed vigilance, and eventually
disclosed the bark coffin and wrappings, containing Dr. Livingstone's body, on the arrival at Bagamoio. And now, devoid of
fear, the people of Kasekera asked them all to come and take




A DREADFUL SNAKE.                  777
up their quarters in the town; a privilege which was denied
them so long as it was known that they had the remains of the
dead with them.
From  Kasekera we must follow Susi's troop through a not
altogether eventless journey to the sea. Some days after leaving Kasekera, as they wended their way through a rocky place,
a little girl in their train, named Losi, met her death in a
shocking way. It appears that the poor child was carrying a
water-jar on her head in the file of people, when an enormous
snake dashed across the path, deliberately struck her in the
thigh, and made for a hole in the jungle close at hland. This
work of a moment was sufficient, for the poor girl fell mortally
wounded. She was carried forward, and all means at hand
were applied, but in less than ten minutes the last symptom
(foaming at the mouth) set in, and she ceased to breathe.
Here is a well-authenticated instance which goes far to prove
the truth of an assertion nmade to travellers in many parts of
Africa. The natives protest that one species of snake will deliberately chase and overtake his victim with lightning speed,
and so dreadfully dangerous is it, both from the activity of its
poison and its vicious propensities, that it is perilous to approach
its quarters. Most singular to relate, an Arab came to some of
the men after their arrival at Zanzibar and told them that he
had just come by the Unyanyembe road, and that, whilst passing the identical spot where this disaster occurred, one of the
men was attacked by the same snake, with precisely the same
results; in fact, when looking for a place in which to bury him
they saw the grave of Losi, and the two lie side by side.
Natal colonists will probably recognize the Mamba in this
snake; it is much to be desired that specimens should be procured for purposes of comparison. In southern Africa so great
is the dread it inspires that the Caffres will break up a kraal
and forsake the place if a Mamba takes up his quarters in the
vicinity, and, from what we have seen above, with no undue
caution.
Susi, to whom this snake was known in the Shupanga tongue
as " Bubu," describes it as about twelve feet long, dark in color,
of a dirty blue under the belly, with red markings, like the
wattles of a cock, on the head. The Arabs go so far as to say




778           DELIVERING THEIR CHARGE.
that it is known to oppose the passage of a caravan at times.
Twisting its tail round a branch, it will strike one man after
another in the head with fatal certainty. Their remedy is to
fill a pot with boiling water, which is put on the head and
carried under the tree! The snake dashes his head into this
and is killed-the story is given for what it is worth.
At last the coast town of Bagamoio came in sight, and before
many hours were over one of Her Majesty's cruisers conveyed
the acting consul, Captain Prideaux, from Zanzibar to the spot
which the cortege had reached. Arrangements were quickly
made for transporting the remains of Dr. Livingstone to the
island, some thirty miles distant, and then it became perhaps
rather too painfully plain to the men that their task was
finished.
One word on a subject which will commend itself to most
before we close this long eventful history.
We saw what a train of Indian Sepoys, Johanna men, Nassick boys, and Shupanga canoe-men, accompanied Dr. Livingstone when he started from Zanzibar in 1866 to enter upon his
last discoveries: of all these, five only could answer to the rollcall as they handed over the dead body of their leader to his
countrymen on the shores whither they had returned, and this
after eight years' desperate service.
Once more we repeat the names o. these men. Susi and
James Chuma have been sufficiently prominent throughouthardly so perhaps has Amoda, their comrade ever since the
Zambesi days of 1864: then we have Abram and Mabruki,
each with service to show from the time he left the Nassick
College with the doctor in 1865. Nor must we forget Ntoaeka
and Halima, the two native girls of whom we have heard such
a good character: they cast in their lot with the wanderers in
Manyuema. It does seem strange to hear the men say that no
sooner did they arrive at their journey's end than they were so
far frowned out of notice, that not so much as a passage to the
island was offered them when their burden was borne away.
We must hope that it is not too late-even for the sake of consistency-to put it on record that whoever assisted Livingstone,
whether white or black, has not been overlooked in England.
Surely those with whom be spent his last years must not pass
away into Africa again unrewarded, and lost to sight.




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VALUABLE SERVICES OF SUSI AND CHUM[A.    781
A very great deal is owing to these five men, and we say it
emphatically. If the world has gratified a reasonable wish in
learning all that concerns the last days on earth of a truly noble
countryman and his wonderful enterprise, the means of doing
so could never have been placed at our disposal but for the
ready willingness which made Susi and Chuma determine, if
possible, to render an account to some of those whom they had
known as their master's old companions. If the geographer
finds before him new facts, new discoveries, new theories, as
Livingstone alone could record them, it is right and proper that
he should feel the part these men have played in furnishing
him with such valuable matter. Nothing but such leadership
and staunchness as that which organized the march home from
Ilalal, and distinguished it throughout, could have brought
Livingstone's bones to England, or his last notes and maps to
the outer world. They performed their service nobly.
The mournful tidings was quickly conveyed to London, and
it thrilled the world with sorrow. A few days only the unwilling hearts of friends entertained trembling hope that there
might be a mistake: the confirmation was inevitable; the painful anxiety was relieved by the more painful certainty. Those
who had watched with deepest interest the life of the great man
could only wait with deepest sadness to welcome his lifeless
body back to burial; the world could only wait for the final
story, that it might embalm the complete life in its reverence
and memory.
The precious freight was shipped from Zanzibar in February,
in care of Mr. Arthur Young. There was the body, and with
it all the books, papers, and personal effects of Dr. Livingstone.
At Aden Mr. Young was joined by Mr. Thomas Livingstone,
the oldest son of the missionary, a mercantile agent in Egypt,
and all was reshipped in the "Malwa" for England. When
the ship arrived at Southampton a deputation of the Royal
Geographical Society, with a few of the personal friends of Dr.
Livingstone, were awaiting it, and were conducted to the mail
room, where the coffin lay in lonely state, wrapped with the
flags of the Peninsular and Oriental Company, guarded by
Jacob Wainwright, a faithful sentinel, who had been al-lowed to
represent the noble men who had so bravely brought the bur-;




782          IDENTIFICATION OF THE BODY.
den out of the wilderness. The coffin was next transferred to
the deck of the "Queen," in the presence of a solemn and
respectful company, standing with uncovered heads; while a
lady came forward and placed on the lid a beautiful wreath of
flowers. From the Royal Wharf at Southampton the loving
friends attended their charge to London, where it was received
with sad reverence and placed in state in the hall of the Geographical Society. The identification of the body was unquestionable. We remember the mark which God had caused to be
placed on the man so many years before in South Africa, before
he sent him forth on his toilsome and perilous mission; by that
one mark, more than all else, absolute certainty could be had.
It was implortant that there should be no doubt in the matter,
and a formlal examination of the body was ordered. This
examination was conducted by Sir William Fergusson and the
friends of Livingstone; and we are allowed to introduce the
letter in which Sir William gives his account of it. He says:
" Within the last few months many have hesitated to believe
that Livingstone was dead. Above all it seemed beyond ordinary
probability that his remains would have been brought from central Africa to the heart, of London. That a body was on its
way from this all but mytlhical region could hardly be doubted
after the examination at Zanzibar of the remains, but many
were sceptical as to this dead frame being that of Livingstone.
Happily it was borne in mind by many old friends that he had
one condition of body which would mark the identification of
his remains even if years and years had elapsed. If it should
be proved on anatomical examination the remains of an old ununited fracture in his left humerus (arm bone) could be recognized, all doubt on the subject would be settled at once and forever. It has fallen to my lot to have the honor of being
selected- to make the crucial examination to this end, and I have
accordingly performed that duty. From what I have seen I
am much impressed with the ingenious manner in which those
who have contrived to secure that the body should be carried
lthrough the long distance from where Livingstone died until it
could reach a place where transit was comparatively easy accomplished their task. The lower limbs were so severed from the
trunk that the length of the bulk of package was reduced to a




THE GENERAL CONDITION.                783
little over four feet. The soft tissues seem to have been removed
to a great extent from the bones, and these latter were so disposed that by doubling and otherwise the shortening was accomplished. The abdominal viscera were absent, and so were those
of the chest, including, of course, heart and lungs. There had
been made a large opening in front of the abdomen, and through
that the native operators had ingeniously contrived to remove
the contents of the chest as well as of the abdomen. The skin
over chest, sternum, and ribs had been untouched. Before these
points were clearly ascertained some coarse tapes had to be
loosened, which set free some rough linen material-a striped
colored bit of cotton cloth, such as might have been an attractive
material for the natives among whom Livingstone travelled-a
coarse cotton shirt, which doubtless belonged to the traveller's
scanty wardrobe, and in particular a large portion of the bark
of a tree, which had formed the principal part of the packagethe case thereof no doubt. The skin of the trunk, from the
pelvis to the crown of the head, had been untouched. Everywhere was that shrivelling which might have been expected
after salting, baking in the sun, and eleven months of time.
The features of the face could not be recognized. The hair on
the scalp was plentiful, and much longer than he wore it when
last in England.  A mustache could not be recognized, but
whiskers were in abundance. The forehead was in shape such
as we are familiar with from memory, and from the pictures and
busts now extant. The circumference of the cranium, from the
occiput to the brow, was 23" inches, which was recognized
by some present to be in accordance with such measurements
when alive. In particular the arms attracted attention. They
lay as if placed in ordinary fashion, each down by the side.
The skin and tissues under were on each side shrunk almost
to skeleton bulk, and at a glance to practised eyes-there were
five, I may say six, professional men present; —the state of the
left arm was such as to convince every one present who had
examined it during life that the limb was Livingstone's.
Exactly in the region of the attachment of the deltoid to the
humerus there were the indications of an oblique fracture. On
moving the arm there were the indications of the ununited fracture. A closer investigation and dissection displayed the false




784            TIE UNMISTAKABLE MARK.
joint which had long ago been so well recognized by those who
had examined the arm in former days. The Rev. Dr. Moffat, and
in particular Dr. Kirk, late of Zanzibar, and Dr. Loudon, of
Hamilton, in Scotland, at once recognized the condition. Having myself been consulted regarding the state of the limb when
Livingstone was last in London, I was convinced that the
remains of the great traveller lay before us. Thousands of
heads with a like large circumference might have been under
similar scrutiny; the skeletons of hundreds of thousands might
have been so; the humerus in each might have been perfect;
if one or both had been broken during life it would have united
again in such a manner that a tyro could easily have detected
the peculiarity.  The condition of ununited fracture in this
locality is exceedingly rare. I say this from my personal professional experience, and that such a specimen should have
turned up in London from the centre of Africa, excepting in the
body of Dr. Livingstone, where it was known by competent
authorities to have existed, is beyond human credibility.  It
must not be supposed by those who are not professionally
acquainted with this kind of lesion —which often causes so much
interest to the practical surgeon-that a fracture and new joint
of the kind now referred to could have been of recent date or
made for a purpose. There were in reality all the indications
which the experienced pathologist recognizes as infallible, such
as the attenuated condition of the two great fragments (common
under such cijycumstances), and the semblance of a new joint,
but actually there was a small fragment detached from the others
which bore out Livingstone's own view that the bones had been'crushed into splinters.' Having had ample opportunity of
examining the arm during life, and conversing with Livingstone on the subject, and being one of those who entertained
hopes that the last reports of Livingstone's death might, like
others, prove false, I approached the examination with an
anxious feeling regarding this great and most peculiar crucial
test. The first glance at the left arm set my mind at rest, and
that, with the further examination, made me as positive as to
the identity of these remains as that there has been among us
in modern times one of the greatest men of the human raceDavid Livingstone."




rEiE LAST RESTING-PLACE.              78.5
After the identification the remains were placed in a simple
casket. A last resting-place had been assigned it in Westminster
Abbey. On Saturday, April 18, 1874, it was borne thither
amid such testimonies of profound respect as did honor to the
metropolis. The name and achievements of Livingstone were
a talisman which gathered within the walls of that venerable
abbey a throng of mourners as unique and diverse as were ever
assembled by an open grave. There were distinguished statesmen, and explorers, and missionaries, and hunters. And mingling with them the honored clergymen and laymen who had cooperated with him in establishing the Zanzibar Mission. Men
of all callings and creeds, sorrowfully glad to testify their reverence for the philanthropist, the patriot and Christian. Nearest
the coffin, as it was carried up the splendid aisle, were the children, Thomas S., Agnes, William  Oswell, and Anna Mary
Livingstone. One, bearing a familiar name, Robert, whose
childish sweetness so won the heart of Sebituane, had fallen
years before, under, the assumed name of Ruepert, on our own
soil, and rested in an unknown soldier's grave. Next to the
children were two sorrowing sisters of the explorer, and the
wife of Mr. Charles Livingstone, and with them there was the
white-bearded patriarch, Robert Moffat, who had given him his
daughter Mary in marriage at distant Kuruman. Behind these
came the Duke of Sutherland, the Lord Advocate of Scotland,
Lords Shaftesbury and Houghton, Sir Bartle Frere, Dr. Lion
Playfair, Sir H. Rawlinson, Lord Lawrence, Sir F. Buxton,
the Honorable Arthur Kinnaird, and a long procession composed of the Geographical savants of Great Britain. The soft,
grand, solemn strains of funeral song filled the place. The
burial service was read by Dean Stanley, assisted by Canons
Conway and Leighton. A wreath of flowers, with a card on
which was written, "A tribute of respect and admiration from
Queen Victoria," was placed on the casket, just over the simple
inscription:
DAVID LIVINGSTONE,
BORN AT BLANTYRE, LANARKSHIRE, SCOTLAND,
MARCH 19, 1813.
DIED AT ILLALA, CENTRAL AFRICA,
MAY 4, 1873.




786                UNCOVETE I HONOR.
And the body of the mall who had bequeathed the world the
legacy of an entire life consecrated to Christ in the midst of
sufferings and sacrifices inexpressible was left in that vast
mausoleum of England's most honored servants.
David Livingstone was buried. Probably he would have
preferred an unmarked grave in Central Africa. His had been
a loftier ambition than the distinguished general's, who plunged
into the battle of the Nile, exclaiming, "A peerage, or Westminster Abbey!" Love prevailed in the counsels of his heart,
and shone in all his life. He sought the Kingdom of God;
like his Master, he lived for others, and died. Men honored him
in his death. It is well: but better, if they allow the impress
of his greatness and goodness on their souls, and are incited by
his example to nobler lives.
HEADS.




APPENDIX
Discouragements-Recent Successes of Explorers-Revival of Interest-Commercial Importance-Familiar Trees of North and West Africa-Tropical
Africa-General Appearance-South African Forests-Lumber ExportsExcellence of Soil-Cotton, Coffee, etc.-Mineral Resources-Gold MinesCopper Mines-Diamond Fields-The Ivory Trade-Commerce of West Coast
-The Slave-Trade-Baker's Work-Slave-Traders Classified-Slaves Classified-Sources of the Trade Classified-Total Annual Traffic in Slaves-Theories
for Suppression-The Tendency of Events-Not an Abstract Question-Slavery
has had its Miission-The Nations Against It-Providence in the Revolution
-The Nile-Baker-Speke-Livingstone-Mlissions —The Former Successes
-General Influence-The Prospect.
COSTLY indeed have been the sacrifices made for the redemption of Africa.  Providence has seemed to patronize barbarism
in a perpetual and fatal monopoly of the continent.  The land
has been thought of as a prison.  Insalubrious airs infest the
coasts and cataracts, obstruct the rivers-the malaria has been a
wall, the rivers have been barred gates. The obstinate gloom
has been called a curse, which human benevolence could not
presume to change.  The baffled ages have been perplexed.
The task has seemed hopeless, discouragements have fostered
doubts, destiny has seemed to deny the obligations of civilization, Christianity has parleyed with expediency, science has
counted the costs.  Over and over again the wearied energies
of the world have relaxed, and the work of redeeming Africa
has seemed about to be abandoned; over and over again the
land which gave a birthplace to the Star of Empire, and a
nursery to Israel, has seemed about to be recognized as the
predestined dominion of absolute ignorance and sin. But it
was impossible: light had received its commission, the world
had been given to Christ.  Africa could not be forgotten.
Science could not abandon a continent, Christianity could not
abandon one hundred million souls.  Again and again the
40                                              787




788                NEW LIFE IMPARTED.
baffled nations renewed their efforts. Footholds were gained
here and there. But the little settlements were like candles
which men sometimes, standing in their doors, hold against the
night. The rays did not reach far, they could not affect Africa
materially or answer the questions that were asked about it.
The hearts of men needed encouragement.  The recent successes of explorers have been hailed with as much joy as wonder. A new life has been imparted to commercial, scientific,
philanthropic and Christian enterprises; the representatives
of these various interests have been grand, if involuntary allies,
marshalled by a superior providence in the work accomplished,
and the future assigns them each a task which promises rich
rewards.  Livingstone from  the south and east, Baker and
Schweinfurth from the north, and Du Chaillu from the west,
have at last succeeded in letting the light in upon the heart of
the continent; and revelations have been made which intensify
popular interest in all that pertains to it.
It is difficult to determine the commercial importance of
countries so thoroughly undeveloped and occupied by people in
the rudest barbarism.  The utilization of the latent forces of
the continent must inevitably be the work of generations, and
it must be attended with greater difficulty, because its climate,
its inhabitants, and its history are alike repulsive to those races
which seem to have been commissioned especially as leaders inll
all the industries and arts of civilization. But the world cannot afford to throw away millions of square miles of fertile soil
and vast stores of mineral wealth.  The interests of men will
patronize Africa, its own treasures will prevent its neglect.
The difficulty of access to the interior will greatly retard the
measures for improvement, but the importance of the inland
country may soon be felt to justify such expenditures as may
remove these difficulties, and bring all parts of the continent
within easy access from the sea.
The time was when the work for Africa seemed a strictly
benevolent one; but the time has come when even the most
powerful nations recognize its importance.  As the mind wanders over this vast continent, which comes out gradually before
it in tracing the steps of explorers, the old impressions about
hopeless desolation vanish. The scorching sands of Sahara




WOODLAND FEATURES.                  789
are thought of only as a neighboring sea, begemmed with beautiful islands, while all about, the various developments of tropical
life are spread out in splendid contrast. The wonderful pasturelands and vast forests, where enormous trees are so thickly
planted and wound and interlaced by the huge creepers that not
a ray of sunlight can ever penetrate them-the mountain
ranges which traverse the scene, here and there rearing their
perpetual snow-crown defiantly, right in the eye of the sun, as he
rides the very ridge of his supremacy-a wonderful river system and beautiful lakes-may not, indeed, promise a home which
should tempt Europeans or Americans away from their own
lands; but they cannot fail to impress the observer with the
magnitude of those latent forces with which Africa stands ready
to contribute toward the accomplishment of human destiny.
The woodland features of Africa are greatly diversified, and
in the sections traversed by Dr. Schweinfurth, and all along the
table-lands of the west, many striking analogies have been
remarked between the numerous trees of Africa and those which
adorn the hills and valleys of more familiar lands, " Some of
the trees at first sight have a considerable likeness to the common
oak. Amongst these may be named the Terminalia and the
butter tree. The fruit of the latter consists of a globular oily
kernel, which looks something like a horse-chestnut, is as large
as a good-sized apricot, and is enveloped in a green rind. From
the kernels of this widely known tree an oil is expressed, which,
under the name of'butter of Gallam,' is a recognized article
of commerce in Gambia."
Far-spread as are the trees which resemble the oak, those
which resemble the horse-chestnut are quite as common. The
plane tree may be also said to be represented equally with
respect to its bark, its foliage, and the pattern of its leaves, by
the Sterculia tomentosa, which  has established itself pretty
generally throughout tropical Africa. In the place of willows
Africa offers the Anaphrenium; and over and over again the
traveller may fancy that he sees the graceful locust tree. The
Parkia is another of those imposing trees which are met with;
the leaves of this are not unlike the Poincillade or Flamboyer;
its flowers are a fiery red and hang in a tuft, and when they die
off leave a bundle of pods a foot in length, in which seeds are




790              TYPES OF VEGETATION.
found, covered with a yellow dust which the natives mix with
their flour.
Many types of vegetation, however, abound, to which European and American travellers are altogether unaccustomed.
And it is not only by the exuberance and dignity of their forms
that these are marked, but still more by the novelty and grace
with which nature seems to have invested them. No European
production in any way represents the Anonia Senegalensis, with
its large blue-green leaf, and its small fruit, with an aromatic
(lark-red pulp; a fruit which in a modest degree displays something of that captivating quality which has exalted its kindred
plant, the Cherimoyer of Peru, to its high repute as the queen
of fruits.
Much more singular is the magnificent candelabra-euphorbia,
which follows the pattern of its prototype, the cactus of our own
country. Next must be mentioned the varieties of fig-trees
with their leathery leaves, and, associated with them, those chief
characteristics of African vegetation, the combreta and the rubiaceme; tamarinds, with their thick tubular corollas, and shrubby
gardeniae, dwarf and contorted.
In general character the flora of these northern and western
districts are alike, and they boast primeval forests which rival
the splendor' of Brazilian nature.  In contrast with this, the
bush forests in the higher parts of tropical Africa, broken by
the steppes, present in uniformity, perhaps, the most extensive
district that could be pointed out in the whole geography of vegetation. Extending as it does from Senegal to the Zambesi, and
from Abyssinia to Benguela, tropical Africa may be asserted to
be without any perceptible alteration in character but that which
is offered by the double aspect of steppe and bush on the one
hand, and primeval forests, in the American sense, on the other.
On the west and east this is illustrated by the marked difference
between the table-lands and the low coast terraces; in the centre
by the difference between the woods on the river banks and the
low flats lying between the river courses.  With the southern
portion we have been made familiar in following Dr. Livingstone through his journeys. Africa is certainly not the least
below the most abundant districts of even our new western
world in producing timber trees. Trees and shrubs constitute




MINERAL RESOURCES.                   791
quite one-fifth of its entire production, and from this vast storehouse there has been for many years but little contribution made
to the commerce of the world.
But the soil which produces such marvellous forest wealth is
also remarkably adapted to the most enlightened forms of
agriculture, The cotton planter will find in Africa, in various
sections, his favorite growing wild, and exhibiting a luxuriance
and excellence of quality which will rival that grown in any
land.  Indian corn is also cultivated with remarkable success;
also rice, manioc, and various other grains.  Gum, beeswax,
palm oil, India-rubber, etc., swell the list, while tobacco, coffee,
indigo, sugar-cane, and all the tropical fruits grow luxuriantly.
The mineral resources are also worthy of special attention.
Gold is found in various parts of the continent; the most
promising of which fields are probably those near the junction
of the Limpopo and Zambesi rivers. But these, as are all the
regions where the world at various times has located the longsought Ophir, are entirely undeveloped, and there is certainly
no contradiction yet furnished of the reported wealth of Africa
in this glittering treasure. Coal, iron, and copper, all have
their place. Iron is manufactured quite extensively in many
districts, and we have seen the whole lake country covered with
the rude forges of the natives.  The most notorious copper
mines are those of Hofrat-el-Nlahaho, which are said to be situated on the southern frontier of Darfoor, but about whose exact
location there is some dispute among the doctors. The copper
from these mines is brought into market, either in the shape of
clumsily formed rings, full of angles, varying in weight from
five to fifty pounds, or in long oval cakes of imperfect casting.
Dr. Schweinfurth obtained a specimen of this copper, which he
deposited in the Mineralogical Museum at Berlin.  This specimen consisted of "copper-pyrite and quartz, with an earthy
touch of malachite, commonly called green carbonate of copper,
but containing a very small quantity of the real metal."
No systematic mining seems to be carried on in the Hofrat-elNahaho, and the man from whom the doctor obtained his sample said that the ore was found lying like loose rubble in the
dry bed of a khor.  "It may be presumed that by boring galleries, or even by hewing out quarries, a large supply of metal




792                 DIAMOND FIELDS.
might be obtained without any vast expenditure of time or
money, for even in the present condition of things, while the
solid rock still remains intact, the yield of copper for years past
has been very considerable." The Foorian copper even now
takes a prominent part in the commerce of the entire Soudan;
it is conveyed across Wadai to Kano in Haussa, and, according
to Barth, it; holds its own in the market, even against that imported from Tripoli.
But during the last few years more tempting treasures than
copper or gold even have been attracting attention to Africa.
The diamond fields of South Africa have created quite a sensation. These remarkable fields are situated between the 260 and
30~ lat. S., and 22' and 280 E. long., on both sides of the Vaal
river. All the information which has yet been given to the
world respecting these fields has been of so vague a nature, and
has come through such unreliable channels, that thousands who,
if they had known the real truth respecting the operations there,
or could have felt assured of the reliable nature of the stories
which they heard, would have been long ago located and at
work in that beautifill and pleasant region, are still incredulous.
Yet the work goes on with increasing importance. The history
of Californian and Australian mining has of course been repeated-a few have become rich, while many have been grievously disappointed. But really "great success has attended
well-directed efforts, and these fields may yet prove themselves
one of the most important paymasters appointed by God in
Africa to reward the nations for their perseverance in their
efforts to redeem it from darkness."
Whatever the future may reveal concerning the extent of the
mineral resources of Africa or its agricultural importance, in
its past history, if we except slaves only, ivory has been its
chief export. Those vast forests are the abode of immense
herds of elephants, whose tusks supply this important commodity. This trade has, however, like everything else, suffered
greatly by that in slaves-everything, indeed, been second to
the slave-trade, and it is only within the last few years that
any portion of the continent has been allowed to demonstrate
the importance of its legitimate resources. Within those few
years the prosperity on the western coast has been astonish



WORKINGS OF THE SLAVE-TRADE.             793
ing. In 1871 the commerce of the British possessions on that
coast amounted to ~2,556,000, and may at the present time
be estimated at ~3,250,000 sterling, and this is only the slightest hint of the possibilities that are concealed there.
But whatever the possibilities may be, the world will realize
little from Africa while the mumbling sons of Mohammed are
allowed to desolate the fairest districts for the satisfaction of
their unscrupulous cupidity. Those who have read the foregoing pages have become familiar with the workings of the
slave-trade in the countries traversed by Dr. Livingstone.
Above the equator, in the Nile regions, it is no better. The
efforts of Sir Samuel Baker, in his recent expedition, did something toward its suppression. But his efforts, however effectual,
reached only a limited portion of the evil.
Satisfied with having, to the eyes of the world at large, made
a clean sweep of the waters of the Nile, Sir Samuel and his
supporters did not perceive, or could not remedy, what was
going on on either side of the great river-highway. To any
one who should now enter the country under the impression
that the slave-trade on the Upper Nile was forever abolished,
and should subsequently learn, by contrast, the true condition
of the lands, a scene would be presented that might well remind
him of the painted villages that were exhibited to Katherine
II., on her tour through Southern Russia.
The Gellahbas who, either on their own account or as representatives of others, carry on the slave-trade in this district,
may be divided into three classes:
1. The petty dealers, who, with only a single ass or bullock
come in January and return in March or April.
2. The agents or partners of the great slave merchants in
Darfoor and Kordofan, who have settled in the Seribas, nearly
always in the capacity of Fakes.
3. The colonized slave-dealers who live on their own property in the Dehms of the west.
The last of these form the only class who ever penetrate
beyond the bounds of the Seriba district into the negro countries. They nearly all direct their course from the Dehms in
Dar Ferteet to the territories of Mofio, the great Niam-Niam,
king of the west, and are accompanied by considerable bands of




794                 PRIVATE SLAVES.
armed men, whom they recruit for this purpose from the best
of their slaves.  Contrary to the policy of the Khartoom ivorymerchants, the Gellahbas have by degrees supplied King Mofio
with such a number of firearms, that he is now said to have-at
hlis command a force of three hundred fully equipped warriors,
a formidable fighting force, with which he seriously threatens
any expedition of the Khartoomers that may enter his dominions. His store of slaves appears absolutely inexhaustible; year
after year his territories go on yielding thousands upon thousands, which he obtains either from the slave tribes that he has
subjected, or by raids organized against the surrounding nations.
The demand for slaves in the Seribas, says Sir Samuel
Baker, would alone suffice to support a very flourishing trade.
Numerically, the Mohammedan settlers bear a high ratio to
the native population, and in some of the western territories, as
amongst the Kredy, Golo, and Sehre, they are actually considerably in excess of the total number of natives, who only
consist of bearers and agricultural laborers. Taken one with
another, every Nubian possesses about three slaves; and thus it
may easily be conceived that the computation is not too high
that places the total number of private slaves in the country at
between fifty thousand and sixty thousand.  These private
slaves are quite distinct from  those that are kept in store and
used as merchandise; they may be divided into four categories:
i. Boys from seven to ten years of age, who are employed to
carry guns and ammunition; and every Nubian soldier possesses
at least one of these juvenile armor-bearers.
2. The second class includes the greater part of the full-grown
natives of the Seribas, who are porters or, soldiers as occasion
may require.
3. The third class of private slaves is from the women who
are kept in the houses; who are either " favorites" or drudges,
as the whim  of their owners may determine, and at best are
chattels passed from hand to hand like dollars.
4. Last are the slaves employed exclusively in hbtsbandry.
But passing from the institution as it exists at home under
the various pretences of government, let us turn our attention
to those slaves who are regarded as actual merchandise, and
who are dragged into bondage from  the Upper Nile lands,




ESTIMATED ANNUAL TRAFFIC.                795
solely for purposes of profit. In order to demonstrate how important at the present time is the part taken by the district of
the Gazelle in the entire African slave-trade, I will take a brief
survey of the sources which all the year round supply the endless succession of the dealers with fresh stores of living wares,
and which, branching off into three great highways to the north,
yield up their very life-blood to gratify the insatiable and
luxurious demands of Egypt, Arabia, Persia, and Asiatic
Turkey.  Previous travellers have estimated the total of the
annual traffic in this immense region to be twenty-five thousand,
but I shall show by a very summary reckoning that this is far
too low a computation.
The three currents for the slave-trade in northeast Africa (a
region corresponding to what may be geographically termed
the " Nile district ") are the natural highways of the Nile and
the Red Sea, and the much frequented caravan roads that,
traversing the deserts at no great distance to the west of the
Nile, find their outlet either in Siout or near Cairo. As a
proof of how little these roads even now are known, I may
mention that when, in the summer of 1871, a caravan with two
thousand slaves arrived direct from Wadai, it caused quite a
sensation in the neighborhood of the pyramids of Gizeh; it was
supposed to have traversed a geographical terra incognita, and
it divided and dispersed itself as mysteriously as it came. It is
far more difficult to place the deserts under inspection than the
ocean, and this is especially the case in the vicinity of a river,
where a caravan can easily supply itself with water for many
days. The borders of a desert are like the coasts of an unnavigable ocean. The plan, however, of establishing a system of
control along the borders of the Nile valley, corresponding to
the coast-guard cruisers on our seas, has never yet been tried.
Numerous sources are thus free still to pour their flood of
human life across these unguarded borders. According to Dr.
Schweinfurth," who writes with a perspicuity which indicates
accuracy of information on this subject, the regions in which
Baker put down the trade were really one of its most unimportant sources.  The Galla countries still supply the markets
of Matamrma and Zeyla, and Sennear, with many thousand annually.  The Berta and Dinka countries, the Agow of Abys



796                 ITS SUPPRESSION.
sinia, still supply the markets of Khartoom and Djidda. And
the Bongo Mittoo, and Babuckur, still supply the upper district
of the Bahrel-Ghazal.  But we learn that by far, the most important source of the -trade finding its outlet on the northeast
is found in the negro countries to the south of Darfoor, whence
12,000 or 15,000 souls are annually exported, and greater
numbers still are drawn from the countries belonging to the
Niam-Niam  king by right of conquest; and finally an important source is found in the mountains south of Kordofan,
where, after his bloody conquest, Mehemet Ali, the great reformer and usurper ill Egypt, allowed kidnapping to be a
legitimate source for the state revenue; thus himself initiating
the iniquity which has been pursued with such Satanic cruelties
by his followers ever since. From  these various districts the
slaves are carried in caravans across the country to the different
marts, and scenes of cruelty are witnessed which beggar description.
This trade is of immense importance in connection with the
world's work in Africa, because everything else is involved in
it. We have seen this trade baffling the noblest missionary
efforts, retarding science and commerce, and entangling the feet
of the bravest explorers. We feel that it is not overmuch to
say, that but for the difficulties growing out of the slave-trade
alone, David Livingstone would have seen before his death his
cherished desire in prosperous'mission stations in the heart of
Africa, and that he would have settled forever the great WNile
question.
Various theories are advanced for its suppression. What the
true policy will be proved to be, only the future can determine.
How soon any policy may be expected to bring success can
hardly be surmised. The difficulty on the eastern coast may be
met by the men-of-war, as it was on the west, whenever, at least,
a trifling compact may be done away with, under which the
Sultan of Zanzibar seems to hold the right of the trade in the
Indian-Ocean. That along the Red Sea, which some years ago
was very considerable, has been greatly reduced; there still
exists a powerful patronage for it in lords of Egypt. Sir Samuel
Baker persists in his belief that the Khedive was sincere in his
professions of anxiety to break the trade up, although he con



THE RULER OF EGYPT.:                797
tinually witnessed, even- while under commission from'this
worthy, transactions which it hardly seemed could be without
his knowledge and approval, and although he had hardly
reached England before one of the most notorious slave-traders,
whom he had held. a prisoner, was liberated and appointed to
positions of honor and trust, in the same department which he
had occupied. He may be sincere but he is weak. "It is,"
writes Dr. Schweinfurth, "commonly supposed that the ruler
of Egypt is a despot of purest water; this, however, is a great
mistake. In many respects the Egyptian government is extremely mild; criminals, and officials who have been remiss in
their duty are rarely severely punished, and the only delinquency
that it will not overlook is the refusal to pay taxes; and even
here matters would not be so bad, if it were not that the disorderly administration involves the officials in making encroaching demands. The viceroy has little power over the higher
authorities, who manage to sneak behind the crescent of Stamboul; he is. no more than a viceroy, the high-sounding Persian
title of khedive which he assumes is in reality no more than a
title. He can only issue his orders, and then all boats that come
down the WVhite Nile are confiscated, and in Khartoom especially, where it is good policy to make a stir in the eyes of the
European residents, all kinds of repressive measures are proposed. In displaying their zeal in the cause, the authorities
often commit acts of the greatest injustice, and Mohammedans
sometimes find their wives and families sequestrated as slaves,
merely because they happen to be black. Such proceedings
afford a fine opportunity for the subordinate officials to makie a
harvest out of the injured people by extorting ransom-money,
and by making other extortionate demands. I can myself bear
witness that several of my servants were deprived of their wives
and children and put.into chains, and I had to write to the
minister, and accompany the people to Cairo myself, before I
could get justice done to them and their rights restored, and all
this was only for the purpose of throwing dust in my eyes and
inducing me to report upon the wonderful energy displayed by
the local government in Khartoom. But meantime the caravans find their way just the same as ever through Darfoor and
Kordofan to Dongola and Siout and still they are brought from




798            THE COUNTRY PARALYZED.
Abyssinia through Gallabat to the Red Sea, and no one sees
them but the traveller. In Kordofan, where there is a resident
Egyptian Governor, the trade is truly enormous, and there is
now as well the slave-trade from Darfoor. Siout, the common
termination of the roads, is the only place where this trade can
be cut off, and that could only be effected by the heaviest sacrifices for the commerce of Egypt. The conquest of Darfoor by
the Egyptians would consequently be a great step in advance."
Whether officials are sincere or insincere, the continent is still
being robbed of its population, and those who do not become its
victims are degraded by the presence of the traffic. The whole
country is paralyzed by the curse which it carries.
The apathetic Turks and Arabs recognize no evil in their
trade. What if fifty thousand souls do go into bondage yearly,
" who are they?" But the time has come when the vast continent can be no longer dispensed with: it must take its share
in the commerce of the world, and this can never be until the
slave-trade is put down entirely and forever.
It interferes with legitimate commerce, desolates the finest
districts, cultivates the unholiest passions, and casts a gloomy
shadow on all the land.  It bars the gates against science
and contests the approach of Christianity. Africa cannot rise
until this evil is removed. Whatever measures are used for
its suppression, the demand must be destroyed, there must
be no market. Demand always creates supply: when there
is no market for slaves there will be no slave-yokes. The
trade is an inseparable adjunct of the institution.  The
great revolution which has taken place on the question of
slavery seems to have a direct bearing on Africa.  That
question does not seem to be an abstract one. As a matter
of fact, slavery is almost as old as the world in which we
dwell. There is not a page of history which does not bear its
traces, and not a climate nor a people in which it has not made
good its hold.  It has been thoroughly engrafted in Africa
from the earliest times. The earliest mariners found it there,
and found a system of kidnapping which extended into the
heart of the country. The countries which may chance to be
or to have been the possessors of slaves at any given time are not
responsible for the existence of the institution. It belongs to




~~~~~~~~~~~~ /:
EGYPTIAN LADY.








REDEMPTION OF AFRICA.                801
the ages, has had its place and its mission. Africa in bondage
has been employed in developing the resources of those nations
which were to be most conspicuous in giving the world a freedom far grander and more precious than the freedom of the
hands from fetters —a freedom of mind and soul through Jesus
Christ; freedom from the oppression of superstition and the
bondage of vice. W~e do not need to condescend to the narrowmindedness which pronounces on all questions in the light of
a single day, in order that we may recognize the hand of God
in the revolution which brings the mighty influence of those
very nations which attained their strength by means of slavery
to bear directly against the slave-trade. The time has come
for the redemption of Africa. Its service of bondage has been
long and important: now there is another service for it. The
enslavement of a people and their elevation are incompatible.
Their elevation is ordered and their fetters must fall off. There
may seem to be difficulties in the way, but God will remove
them.
The noblest nations of the world have come to the front in
the great work. They have put their immense moral influence
against slavery.  Nobody ought to hesitate to do so if the
redemption of Africa calls for it. These nations have all held
slaves, African slaves; they do not now speak against themselves, they speak for Africa. Egypt already feels their influence. Egypt must abandon the institution. Other nations will
also abandon it. God controls the nations: they do his bidding.
There will hardly be a change in the Arab trader; he will read
his Koran and curse the infidel.
The work will go on-whatever stands in the way of progress must fall, whatever resists the kingdom of Christ will be
swept away. Men ought to watch diligently the tide of events,
they ought to study prayerfully the leadings of providence.
There should be no stubborn resistance of destiny. There are
very few customs of society which are founded in abstract
moral questions; they generally hold with their occasion. A
man has no business putting his selfishness in the way of the
general welfare, neither has he a right to make the accidents of
history the basis of absolute principles-the fact that an institution is sustained by the necessities of to-day and is manifestly




802                T-IE NILE SOURCES.
owned of God for good, does not give it necessarily a claim to
perpetual support-does not prove that there may never come
a time when its overthrow will be a blessing. We repeat, there
need to be no debate about slavery in itself-about the Scriptural warrant to hold property in man. The question is a
practical one —can commerce, science, philanthropy, and Christianity do' their work inll Africa while caravans are traversing
the country in every direction creating wars, spreading desolation, inculcating darkest superstitions, inflaming the vicious
tendencies, dragging away hundreds of thousands in chains?
Can it be?  Then, is not Africa worth more to the world and
of more consequence to our Lord Christ than this trade? Is it
not better to set every slave free than to leave a continent in
darkness and sin?  The time has come, God is moving, and the.
work will go on; and if there are those who are touched by it
who receive reluctantly the command, let them remember that
it is not a compromise of principle to keep up with providence
— that is the noblest manhood and the truest Christianity which
subjects its theories and interests to the necessities of mankind,
and the demands of Christ's kingdom.
But there are other great interests demanding our notice.
The great search for the Nile sources divide our attention with
the other claims of Africa: this is indeed the geographical question of the day. This wonderful river has engaged the curiosity
of men from the earliest ages. It has been explored southerly,
through thirty degrees of latitude, and if the streams which
Dr. Livingstone followed with so much enthusiasm  should
prove to be identical with it, it will have been found to extend
southerly more than forty degrees. However that may be, the
solution of the problem lies now in a comparatively small area;
the lakes of Baker, Speke, and Livingstone seem to hold the
long-sought answer between them. Baker visited all the Abyssinian tributaries, including the great Blue Nile, which had been
traced to its source by the celebrated Bruce, and discovered his
Albert N'Yanza some years ago, and announced his discovery
as the solution of the great problem, his theory being that the
equatorial lakes Albert N'Yanza and Victoria N'Yanza of Speke
supply the main stream, while the inundations are caused by
the sudden rush of waters from the torrents in Abyssinia during




THE NARROWEST LIMIT.                803
July, August, and September. In his latest work, "Ismailia,'
he gives an account of yet more thorough exploration of the
main stream, in which he carried a steamer as high up as Gondokoro. As the result of this expedition he says: "I have not
changed my opinions that have already been expressed in the'Albert N'Yanza,' except that, from the native testimony, I
presume there must be a channel which connects the Tanganyika with the Albert N'Yanza."  This channel he thinks may
easily have escaped the notice of Dr. Livingstone and Mr.
Stanley when skirting the reedy northern shores of Tanganyika
lake. The Victoria N'Yanza is understood to be connected with
the Albert N'Yanza by Speke's "White Nile."  And around
these two lakes, possibly including the Tanganyika, Sir Samuel
draws his line, circumscribing the Nile basin. Dr. Livingstone held his theory, concerning the Lualaba, more modestly,
and perhaps justly so. Dr. Schweinfurth, who, as well as Baker,
was a cotemporary of Dr. Livingstone during those years in
which he was engaged about this problem, agrees with Baker in
declaring the very decided improbability of the Lualaba being
at all connected with the Nile. The search has however been
brought within the narrowest limit, and the glory of the great
discovery lies, without a doubt, between these few men, to be
borne off in part by the man who may come in between them
and settle the dispute.
This wonderful river, the patron of Egypt in her days of
power and splendor, may yet become the channel along which
the civilization long since departed from its famous delta may
penetrate the very heart of the continent. The Niger, the Nile,
and the Zambesi, barred as they may be by cataracts, present no
insuperable obstacles; and the interior presents a lake and river
system which, with some imperfections, still offers the greatest
encouragement to commerce.
But there is a question of greater importance than all else.
The noblest of all the travellers, while he was journeying toward
Bangweolo the last time, wrote, "The discovery of the true
source of the Nile is nothing to me, except as it may be turned
to the advantage of Christian missions." In all his travels he
retained- the spirit, the habits and aims, with which he entered
his work among the Bakwains. The missionary spirit has con



804               MISSIONARY EFFORTS.
tributed very greatly to the success of all those great enterprises
which have engaged the minds of men. Christianity has been
the real, though sometimes unrecognized, champion of humanity
in all its experiences. A distinguished author, in connection
with the suppression of the slave-trade, has ventured the assertion that " Religious institutions have effected little or nothing
in the cause of humanity." Possibly he may have distinguished
in his own mind between the organization, as such, and the
individual representing in his life the spirit presumed to be incorporated in the organization. But the statement savors much
of the disposition to detract from the glory of Christianity
which inheres with human nature. This writer could surely
not have been ignorant of the tremendous influence being exerted
by Dr. Livingstone, at the very time of his writing, against the
identical evil of which he was speaking; and he could hardly
have been ignorant of the fact that the religion of Jesus Christ
was the ruling power in his heart; and he ought to have known
also that in coming to Africa he did the bidding of a religious
institution. Indeed it may be confidently asserted that Christianity, more than anything else, is moving the mighty forces
which are to deliver that long degraded land from its chains
and ignorance.  Where is the simple servant of science or
government who has laid his life entirely and absolutely on the
altar for Africa?
And Christianity will not fail to take advantage of the progress. The western and southern coasts have been the scene of
very successful missionary efforts in the past; and already there
are settlements being made at different points in the interior so
recently explored. On the Nile there have been misfortunes, as
there were on the Zambesi and the Shire, but even Sir Samuel
Baker, who could not embrace the missionary work in his
theories for the elevation of Africa, proclaims in his recent work
the assurance that there will now be no difficulty on the Upper
Nile, nothing to interfere with them. Various nations are
represented in the societies which are engaged in this good
work. Among them all Dr. Livingstone was pleased to say
that "Americans make superior missionaries." We have indeed noble representatives there and in other lands, and their
labors are richly rewarded. And we will watch eagerly the




A CORDIAL WELCOMIE TO MISSIONARIES.         805
path which Dr. Livingstone has made into the heart of the
darkness, and hail with joy the fires which one after one will be
kindled there. The world will never be able to estimate the
work of Dr. Livingstone.  That work did not consist alone in
traversing unknown regions: he has introduced the English
name and manners to the Aficalns, and he has laid the African
character so clearly before us, that those who are move(l
to labor there for Christ will have not only a guide-book to the
heart of a continent, but a guide-book to the hearts of the
heathen who dwell there. The difficulties have been largely
removed by his powerful influence; a cordial welcome is proclaimed from the central tribes to all missionaries of the gospel.
The importance of the work of Dr. Livingstone to missions can
never be estimated; and already settlements are springing up in
his track.  Where missionaries have been able to hold their
positions in Africa their work has always been encouraging;
when they are in possession of healthful homes, and surrounded
by tribes uncorrupted by the influences which exist about all
the coast settlements, there is reason to anticipate still more
encouraging returns.  There can be no question about the
adaptation of our religion to the wants and capacities of even
the most degraded. There is no poor negro in all Africa on
whose benighted soul the light of the Cross may not shine with
all its quickening and transforming efficiency.
THIE END.








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