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JOURNAL
OF AN
EXPLORING TOUR
BEYOND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS,
UNDER THE DIRECTION OF THE
AMERICAN BOARD OF COMMISSIONS FOR FOREIGN MISSIONS,
IN THE YEARS 1835, '36, AND '37;
CONTAINING
A DESCRIPTION OF THE GEOGRAPHY, GEOLOGY, CLIMATE, PRODUCTIONS
OF THE COUNTRY, AND THE NUMBER, MANNERS, AND
CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES:
WITH A
MAP OF OREGON TERRITORY.
BY REV. NSAMIUEL PARKER, A. IM.
SECOND EDITION.
ITHACA, N. Y.
PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR.
MACK, ANDRUS, & WOODRUFF, PRINTERS.
1840.





Entered, according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1838, by
S   SAMUEL PARKER, in the Clerk's office of the District Court of the
Northern District of New York.





/          RECOMMENDATIONS.
FROM II. HUMPHREY, D. D., PRESIDENT OF AMHIERST COLLEGE.
1 have read Mr. Parker's Exploring Tour beyond the Rocky Moun.
tains, with uncommon interest. It embodies a great mass of facts
and many valuable reflections, which cannot fail of making it highly
instructive as well as entertaining to every class of readers. I am
glad to learn that a second edition has been so soon called for. It is
not a book of lofty pretensions, but of unadorned verity and high intrinsic merit. The friends of the missionary cause, and of the aboriginal tribes beyond the mountains, who have not yet seen this volume,
have a rich reversion before them.       HI. HUMPHREY.
Amherst College,
Nov. 7, 1839.
FROM REV. EDWARD HITCHCOCK, A. M., PROFESSOR OF CHEMISTRY AND
NATURAL HISTORY, AMHERST COLLEGE.
I am happy to concur in the above views respecting the Exploring
Tour of Mr. Parker.              EDWARD HITCHCOCK.
FROM NOAH WEBSTER, LL. D. NEW HAVEN.
New Haven, Nov. 12th, 1839.
DEAR SIR,
I have read the account of your journey over the Rocky Mountains
to the Pacific, with much satisfaction. It contains much valuable information respecting a part of our continent, which is imperfectly explored. I hope the publication of the book will amply reward your
labors.                                    N. WEBSTER.
FROM JAMES RICHARDS, D. D. PROFESSOR IN AUBURN THEOLOGICAL
SEMINARY.
I have read the Tour of the Rev. Mr. Parker among the Western
Indians, and was much gratified by his statements. His travels across
the Rocky Mountains, and his visit to the far distant tribes beyond,
are connected with many striking facts and incidents, which cannot
fail to interest the inquisitive, and reflecting. In my judgment the
work is calculated to benefit the cause of Science and of Missions.
JAMES RICHARDS.
Auburn, Nov. 14th, 1839.





IV


RECOMMENDATIONS.


" This is a work of extraordinary merit, and furnishes rich food
alike to the man of science and the unlearned. It is one of the most
deeply interesting volumes that has ever issued from the American
press; inasmuch as it presents, in a plain and unaffected style, stores
of knowledge concerning a portion of our country which heretofore
has been but partially explored, and which, since the narrative of Lewis and Clarke, has excited wonder and admiration in the public mind.
The curiosity to which their narrative may have given rise, will in the
present volume be abundantly satisfied. And while the reader goes
in imagination with Mr. Parker down the mighty rivers of that region, whose vast channels are made through lofty mountains of basalt,
he is gratified to know that these are living realities. Not the least
interesting part of this journal, is that which reveals something of the
character and prospects of the numerous Indian tribes. This is a
volume which commends itself to the careful perusal of men of every
class, and, so marvellous are its truths, that it needs but the merit of
being a work of fiction, to gain for it universal circulation."-Missionary Herald, Cincinnati.
" Mr. Parker's observations on the geology and geography of the
country through which he passed are alone richly worth twice the cost
of his volume. To the friends of the unfortunate Red Man his work
is a noble weapon; to the advocates of Foreign Missions an unanswerable evidence of their necessity and value. It is illustrated by a new
map from actual observation of the territory of the United States
west of the limits of Missouri, and a lithograph exhibiting the extraordinary rock formation through which the Oregon has worn its way.
The book is written in a plain, familiar style, and is intended to embody only such facts as may be said to come absolutely within the
knowledge of the author. We earnestly recommend it to the attention of the entire reading public."-New Yorker, May 19, 1838.
Acknowledgments are due to numerous editors of periodicals and
papers who have given the work a favorable notice, but which are not
at hand.





PREFACE.


IN presenting to the public the Journal of a Tour beyond
the Rocky Mountains, the only apology necessary to offer
is, the hope of promoting a more extensive and particular
knowledge than has hitherto been furnished, of the condition of that important section of our country. The author's
mode of traveling furnished many opportunities for observation, being conducted with leisure, and through one of
the most interesting portions of the wide territories of the
west. It is believed that no defects exist in the work, irreconcilable with a strict adherence to facts, and this scrupulous regard to truth is the principal merit claimed for the
volume.  The most of what is narrated came under the
author's personal observation, and whatever is stated which
did not, was obtained from gentlemen connected with the
Hudson Bay Company, whose reputation for honesty and
candor, as well as capability of judging intelligently, is well
established. This source of information was available by
comparing and collecting the statements of different individuals, retaining what corresponded with his own observavation, or was well supported by evidence. The belief is
cherished, that the following work contains a greater amount
2





vi


PREFACE.


of statistical information in regard to the country, and important facts, than is to be found in any production furnish.
ed by the press. Having gone over a greater extent of
territory than any traveler who had preceded, and with the
express object of exploring the condition of the aboriginal
population, this position cannot be considered as assumed.
Messrs. Lewis and Clarke passed the Rocky Mountains
under a governmental appointment to explore the country,
more than thirty years since, and their published narrative
carries with it evidence of candor and intelligence, and
contains much valuable information; yet their opportunities for observation beyond the mountains were somewhat
limited. They passed over the great chain of mountains
from the head waters of the Missouri between the 45~0 and
460 of north latitude, and came upon the head waters of the
Cooscootske, and followed that river to its junction with
the Lewis or Snake river, and then proceeded by water to
the Pacific ocean at the mouth of Columbia river, wintered
upon the south side of the bay, and early the following
spring returned to the mountains by the same route which
they pursued on their outward journey. All other persons
who have published any history of their travels beyond the
mountains, were persons engaged in the fur trade, and many
of their observations upon different sections of the country
are just, but they are deficient in statistical information,
and their productions are mostly confined to personal ad.





PREFACE.                     Vii
ventures, anecdotes of battles with Blackfeet or Crow Indians, starvation, and hair-breadth escapes. Justice to the
public requires fidelity in the historian and traveler. It is
not our business to originate facts, but to record them. The
license given to poets, or writers of romance, cannot be
tolerated here, and no flights of a lively imagination, or
graphic powers in relating passing occurrences, can atone
for impressions which are not in accordance with truth.
While it was a leading object to become acquainted with
the situation of the remote Indian tribes, and their disposition in regard to teachers of Christianity, yet a careful at.
tention was given to the geography of the country, with its
productions; the climate and seasons, animals, lakes, rivers,
and smaller fountains; forests and prairies, mountains and
valleys, its mineral and geological structure, and all the various aspects of its physical condition. The country here
described is sui generis; every thing is formed on a large
scale. Its lofty and perpetual snow-topped mountains rising
20,000 feet or more above the ocean, the trees of the forest,
the wide extended prairies, plants of enormous growth, and
the results of volcanic agency which are met with in almost
every direction, render the whole an ever increasing scene
of interest to the traveler; and if any statements appear
large, it is because the facts are so in themselves.
It has been an object in writing this volume to compress
as much as possible the amount of information, instead of





viii                 MPEFACE.
unnecessarily extending it, and the hope is indulged, that
while these facts are perused, the desire may be awakened
if it do not already exist, and if in existence, may be greatly increased, to benefit the original, the rightful owners, and,
(with the exception of a few thousand fur traders scattered
in every direction over this territory,) the sole occupants of'
the wide field of uncultivated nature.
The map which accompanies the work has been prepared
with much labor and care; and though some minute parts
are omitted, it will be found to be far more accurate than
any which has before been published. In addition to sur.
veys of my own, I have availed myself of those of gentle.
men connected with the Hudson Bay Company, in parts
which I did not visit, and am especially indebted to Vancouver and the labors of other explorers for much that
I have delineated of the North-West coast of the Pacific
ocean, and the Islands.
The accompanying engraving of the basaltic formation
on the Columbia river, was sketched for the purpose of ex.
hibiting the geological formations, as mentioned on page
three hundred and twenty; not, however, presenting the
whole number of the different sections of basalt, amygdaloid, and breccia, but a sufficient number to illustrate the
subject.





PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.


THE interest the public have taken in this work, evinced
by the many highly commendatory reviews and notices,
which have appeared in numerous periodicals, religious, scientific, and political, both in this country and in Europe,
together with the sale of the first edition, has influenced the
author to publish a second edition. Many persons, whose
judgment, extensive knowledge, and piety, entitle them to
be held in high estimation, have encouraged the author to
believe this work has been interesting to men of science,
useful in advancing general knowledge, and promoting the
spirit of missions, and what is not the least to be valued, a
sympathy for the long neglected Indians beyond the mountains.
As it was an object in preparing the first edition to
compress as great an amount of information as possible in
the compass of a duodecimo volume, so in this the same
object has been pursued, and while some parts have been
enlarged, others have been abridged. The chapter on the
geology of the country, has been carefully revised, and that
part of it which related to theories has been omitted, and in:
its place an enlarged and connected view of facts has been
2*





x         PREFACE* TO THE SECOND EDITION.
substituted, which, it is believed will do more to aid enlightened geological research, and be more available in the
hand of those whose taste or profession demands a thorough
acquaintance with the subject. The whole work has been
attentively revised and corrected. It is hoped that it will
contribute its influence, however small it may be. in aiding
the cause of human welfare. I shall be pardoned if I assert
the sentiment, that the acquisition of all knowledge should
be made subservient to this important use, and that the gold
from any region, if it cannot be refined in this crucible, is
of no real value, and facts which will not directly or indirectly, nearly or remotely, concur in this great end, must at
length endure the ultimate fate of that " knowledge which
shall vanish away."





CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
The Tour commenced by way of Buffalo, Erie, and Pittsburgh,
passage to Cincinnati in the steam-boat Ohioan; the steamboat takes fire; Cincinnati; Falls of the Ohio; the Ohio river;
Ohio and Kentucky; confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi
rivers; Point Girardou; beautiful appearance of fire on the
prairie; St. Genevievc, old custom; Herculaneum; gambling
on board the steam-boats; St. Louis; Dr. M. Whitman; Mr.
Fontenelle...... 17.
CHAPTER II.
Leave St. Louis for Liberty; passage up the Missouri; snags;
a walk on shore; Jefferson city; River scenery; steam-boat
Siam; sand bars; Lexington' steam-boat disaster; Liberty;
Navahoe Indians; ride to Cantonment Leavenworth; amusing
provincialisms; caravan commence their journey; first encampment; Iowa Indians; Blacksnake Hills; Nodaway river;
Elk; cross the Neshnabotana; rich soil; rapid rise of the north
branch of Neshnabotana; mode of living; mounds of the west;
crossing of the Missouri; Bellevue; Missionaries... 26
CHAPTER III.
Continuance at Council Bluffs; interesting scenery; Indian curiosity; information obtained about several Indian tribes; spasmodic cholera; an Indian chief killed; leave Bellevue for the
Black Hills; storm of rain; heavy thunder storm; Elkhorn
river, the country around; Loups fork of the Platte; manner
of encamping; Big Ax, Pawnee chief; Indian feasting; fourth
of July; Messrs. Dunbar and Allis; thuhder storm; Indian
ornaments; effects of drunkenness; bite of a rattle-snake; buf2*





xii


CONTENTS.


falo seen; prairie horse-fly; forks of the Platte; want of wood;
swiftness of antelopes; climate; thousands of buffalo; badgers;
prairie dog; interesting bluffs; old castle; the chimney, or beacon; an alarm; Ogallallah Indians, their lodges; Black Hills. 42
CHAPTER IV.
Black Hills; day of indulgence; buffalo dance; the desire of Indians for instruction; met the chiefs in council; re-commenced
our journey for rendezvous; anthracite coal; species of wormwood; Red Bute; traces of grizzly bears; geology; Rock Independence; Rocky Mountains; perpetual snow; valley through
the mountains; "thunder spirits" gone; an alarm; waters of
the Colorado..........    68
CHAPTER V.
Arrive at rendezvous; trappers and hunters; four Indian nations;
Flatheads and Nez Perc6s, no reason why so called; surgical
operations; an interview with the Flathead and Nez Perc6
chiefs; their anxiety for religious instruction; return of Doct.
Whitman; Shoshones and Utaws; mountain life... 78
CHAPTER VI.
Part with my associate; arrive at head waters of the Columbia;
kindness of the Indians; narrow defile; geology; Jackson's
Hole; wild flax; trappers go out on a hunt; mountain prospect; Trois Tetons; danger from affrighted buffalo; Pierre's
Hole; volcanic chasm; children on horseback; interesting
worship with the Indians; burial of a child; scarcity of food;
a timely supply; Salmon river; expected battle; geological
observations; scene of mourning....... 85
CHAPTER VII.
Salmon river; chimneys; forest trees, new species of pine; geology; sulphur lake; a rare animal; new species of squirrels





CONTENTS.


xiii


and pheasant; came to the Lewis branch of the Columbia;
ferryman; Basaltic formation; fine climate; arrive at Walla
Walla..........    113
CHAPTER VIII.
Description of Walla Walla; the kind treatment of the Indians
by the Hudson Bay Company; leave Walla Walla for Fort Vancouver; loquacious orator; rapids; introduction to the Cayuse
Indians; morning prospect; long rapids; Volcanic mountains;
trial of Indian generosity; arrival at the falls of the Columbia
river; rousing effects of oratory; La Dalles; Boston trading
company; remarkable subsidence; Cascades; Chenooks are
the Flatheads and Nez Perces; dangerous rapids; Indian bu-,tying places; Pillar Rock; interesting waterfall; sea fowl; arrive at Fort Vancouver........ 128
CHAPTER IX.
Description of Fort Vancouver; departure for Fort George and
mouth of the Columbia; mouths of the Multnomah; Wappatoo
island; May Dacre; Coffin rock; Cowalitz river; Indian
friendship; Pacific Ocean; Gray's bay; Astoria.... 146
CHAPTER X.
Description of Fort George; mouth of the Columbia; dangerous
bar; mountainous coast; varieties of timber; good location for
a missionary station; continued rains; dense forests; excursion in a canoe down the bay; view of the coast; disasters at
the entrance of the Columbia; ship William and Anne; ship
Isabella; Tonquin; Japanese junk; reflections; water fowl;
return to Fort Vancouver; the regard Indians show the dead;
Indian kindness........ 153
CHAPTER XI.
Review of journeyings; school; journey up the Willamette; walk
upon the pebbly shore; falls; settlement on the Willamette;.





xiv


CONTENTS,


Methodist mission; epidemic; voyage down the river; hospitality of Wanaxha; construction of his house; Fort William,
on the Wappatoo island; astonishing thirst for ardent spirits;
return to Fort Vancouver....... 166
CHAPTER XII.
Services on the sabbath; obstacles to the gospel; discouraging
case; manner of spending time; description of Vancouver; fur
and farming establishment; garden productions, lumber; commerce; peltries; system of the Hudson Bay Company; waste
of life; hardships of a hunter's life; their perseverance; Christian principle; worldly principle...... 180
CHAPTER XIII.
Indian population; diseases; mortality; attributed to cultivation
of the soil; destitute of medical science; holidays; customs at
home; customs of the Indians; resemblance to Jewish customs
in punishment; marriage contracts; condition of the females;
slavery; division into tribes; two points of dissimilarity; sacrifices; language......... 188
CHAPTER XIV.
"The various animals beyond the Mountains..,.. 196
CHAPTER XV.
Fish; description of salmon; salmon fishery; ornithology; dendrology; shrubbery; nutritive roots; geography; mountains;
valleys; plains; forests; rivers; soil; seasons.... 209
CHAPTER XVI.
Character and condition of the Indians; Indians of the plains;
their persons; dress; wealth; habits; physical character; manufactures; their religion; wars; vices; moral disposition; superstitions; medicine men........224





CONTENTS.


XVY


CHAPTER XVII.
The Indians of the lower country....... 2.39
CHAPTER XVIII.
Conversation with an intelligent Indian; meeting with Indians;
early and mild season; La Dalles Indians; their anxiety to
receive the gospel; Nootka humming bird; number and location of the Indians in the lower country; Indians of the north;
the agitated question; solitariness...... 251
CHAPTER XIX.
Departure for the upper country; American hunters; geology at
the Cascades; Indian honesty; escape in a dangerous gale;
the Falls a favorable location for a missionary station; tender
sympathy; famished Indians; arrival at Walla Walla; interesting meeting of Indians; opportunity to give them religious
instruction; a walk; the nutritious quality of prairie grass.. 263
CHAPTER XX.
Journey to the Nez Perce country; funeral of a child; natural
scenery; worship on the sabbath; return to Walla Wala; inSdustry of the Indians; battle ground; practice of smoking;
journey to Colvile......... 275
CHAPTER XXI.
Paloose Indians; Pavillion river; extraordinary excavation; lost
on the prairie; Indian principle; Spokein woods and country;
Indian ferry; Spokein valley; granite; volcanic curiosities;
fertile valley; worship with the Spokeins; Mill river valley;
arrival at Fort Colvile; description of the place; leave Colvile
for Fort Okanagan; a mountain of marble; Grand Coul6, or
old bed of the Columbia; Okanagan described; Long rapids;
arrive at Walla Walla......... 284





XVI


CONTENTS.


CHAPTER XXII.
A summary of the Indians of the Upper country; names of the
tribes, their location and numbers; leave Walla Walla for Fort
Vancouver; swift passage down the river; run the Falls; Cascades; dangerous eddy; arrive at Vancouver; steam-boat excursion......... 303
CHAPTER XXIII.
Geology....... 316
CHAPTER XXIV.
General remarks; Meteorological table.... 331
CHAPTER XXV.
The voyage commenced for the Sandwich islands; passage in the
Beaver down the river; take passage in the barque Columbia;
detention in Chcnook bay; arrival at the island; worship in
the native church; description of Oahu; the Pari; the valley
of Manoa; description of Honolulu; of Waititi; heathen temple; Eva; Waialua; Keneohe; mountains; salt lake; geology; natural productions; animals; government; tea party of
the royS1 family; dinner to the officers of the Peacock and
Enterprise; decrease of population; unfair negotiations; foreign residents; charity school; seamens' chapel; burying place
of the royal family; missionary success..... 347
CHAPTER XXVI.
Departure from Oahu in ship Phoenix for the United States; call
at the Society Islands; brief description of Tahiti and Eimeo;
severe gales of wind; Magellanic clouds; Martin Vass island;
Trinidad; arrival at New London...... 368





PARKER'S TOUR.
CHAPTER I.
"The Tour commenced by way of Buffalo, Eric and Pittsburghpassage to Cincinnati in the steam-boat Ohioan-the steam-boat
takes fire-Cincinnati-Falls of the Ohio--the Ohio river-Ohio
and Kentucky-confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi riversPoint Girardou-beautiful appearance of fire on the prairic-St.
Genevieve, old custom-I-crculancum-gambling on board the
steam-boats-St. Louis-Dr. M. Whitman-Mr. Fontenelle.
'iTE wide extent of country beyond the Mississippi and
the Rocky Mountains, with its inhabitants and physical
condition, has been a subject of interesting enquiry for the
last thirty years. Many things, relating to the possession
of the country, its future probable importance in a political
view, its population and trade, have occupied much attention. The Christian public have not been inattentive to
the interests, moral and religious, of those whom the God
of providence has placed in these remote regions, and who
are without the blessings of civilization and Christianity.
The American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions
appointed an exploring mission to that country, to ascertain
by personal observation, the condition and character of the
Indian nations and tribes, and the facilities for introducing
the gospel and civilization among them.
3





18


PITTSBURGH.


That difficulties and dangers would be incident to a journey through a country of such extent, uninhabited except
by wandering bands of Indians, where no provisions could
be obtained besides uncertain game, could not be doubted.
It was not a consciousness of undaunted courage, or indifference to suffering, or the love of romance, which fixed my
purpose; but it was the importance of the object. Although
it was painful to bid adieu to family and friends, unapprised
of the events of the future, yet committing all to the
guidance and protection of an all-wise Providence, the enterprise was undertaken, without reluctance, on the 14th of
March, 1835. Pursuing the journey by the way of Buffalo
and Erie, I arrived at Pittsburgh on the twenty-fifth. The
intervening distance to St. Louis, through the Great Valley
of the West, had lost much of its novelty, having previously
passed over it, and long since has it ceased to excite that
degree of interest in the community, with which it was regarded before the numerous descriptions of the tourist and
traveler had rendered its general features familiar. Only
a passing notice, therefore, will be given.
Leaving Pittsburgh, which, from its multiplied manufactories, may be styled the Birmingham of America, I took
passage in the steam-boat Ohioan, for Cincinnati, four
hundred and fifty miles distant, by the river. The scenery
of the Ohio, as it pursues its meandering course to the Mississippi, presents a most beautiful variety of forests, and
cultivated fields, and flourishing villages. On the 28th, we
arrived at Cincinnati. The steam-boat to-day was discovered to be on fire in the hold, in which were a large quantity
of combustible goods. Tifis created great alarm, as a very
strong head wind blew the fire from the furnace down the
hatchway, which, after removing some goods, had been





CINCINNATI.


19


carelessly left open. The captain immediately rounded the
boat to the shore, and no sooner was it gained, than a general rush for safety succeeded. Some of the passengers
threw out their baggage, and many leaped from the upper
deck to the land. The fire, however, was subdued, and with
considerable difficulty we disengaged ourselves from the
trees among which we were entangled, and the boat was
again under way.
Cincinnati is a large city for a country so new, and from
its mature appearance would hardly be thought to have
been the growth of only half a century. Its population,
composed of emigrants from New England, the middle, and
some of the southern states, and from various parts of Eu.
rope, is consequently not very homogeneous in its character.
Its schools and institutions of literature, promise much for
the great interests of science and religion, in this interesting section of our growing country.
Here I exchanged my situation on board the Ohioan, for
the Chien, Captain Reynolds, for St. Louis, which, by water
is six hundred and ninety miles from Cincinnati. On the
30th, we passed Louisville, near which are the falls of the
Ohio, twenty-two feet in height, and passable by boats only
in high water, about two months in a year. To save the
expense and delay of portage around the, falls, a canal has
been constructed on the south side of the river, two miles in
length, fifty feet wide, and forty feet deep.
The water being high, we passed over the falls. It was
a sublime scene. The water about Louisville moves slowly
and smoothly; but as you draw near to the falls, it increases
in velocity and power. You soon find yourself in an irre.
sistible current; and you are anxious to know whether
your pilots are well skilled in their profession. You look at





20     TIHE OHIO RIVER-OH-IO AND KENTUCKY.
them to see if they betray any fear; you find, while their
attention is fixed, their countenances are serene.  Your
fears give way to emotions of the sublime. The boat shoots
forward with amazing force and velocity, and very soon
you find yourself gliding along in the wide-spread calm
below.
The Ohio is a noble river, affording in its whole course
romantic and beautiful prospects. It flows in a smooth and
easy current, and is diversified on every side with rich bottom land, rolling hills, and precipitous bluffs. These hills
and bluffs, in many places, rise abruptly from the shore of
the river, in other places they recede some miles, but in
every part are in view; and so varied is the scenery, that
there is no weariness caused by monotony. No where has
the hand of industry been wanting to add interest in pass.
ing through this part of the great western valley. Farms,
and towns, and villages, evince the advantage that has been
taken of the exuberance of the soil. The many swift-.
moving, panting steam-boats show that industry furnishes
the means of wide-extended and profitable commerce. One
cannot but notice the difference in the taste and habits
presented on the two sides of this river. Upon the Ohio
side, New England modes and habits prevail, but upon the
Kentucky side, the style of the rich Virginian planter is
seen. Though almost all their buildings, except in villages,
are made of logs, yet the customs of nobility are preserved.
You see a two story house, with two rooms upon each floor,
and a wide, open, airy hall between. One of the lower
rooms is a parlor, the other is a nursery, sleeping, and an
eating room. Around this log mansion are a cluster of log
cabins, the habitations of slaves. Open, frank hospitality
characterizes the Kentuckian, which is pleasing to a stran..





CONFLUENCE OF OHIO AND MISSISSIPPI.


21


ger. I offered a lady in one of these mansions some tracts,
which she at first declined with the enquiry, "Do you think
we are heathen?"  "No, madam, for the heathen cannot
read; but tracts contain much that is interesting to all
classes of people, and after they are read, can be circu.
lated among those who may not be well supplied with
books." I saw but very few houses of worship, except in
villages.
Passed, on the first of April, out of the waters of the
Ohio into those of the Mississippi. The Ohio spreads out
into a narrow sea and meets the Mississippi in the same
form. Both appear to expand themselves into their most
majestic forms, as though each was making an effort to
claim the superiority; and when joined, they move on with
united grandeur. We should expect, at the confluence of
these two rivers, to find a business-going village, but instead
of such a place, there is only a whiskey-selling tavern, surrounded by a few miserable huts.
To-day, a boy ten or twelve years old, playing about the
machinery of the boat, was caught in it by the leg, and had
he not been immediately seized and extricated by two men
standing by, must have been drawn wholly in and crushed
to pieces. The bones were not broken, but the calf of the
leg was distressingly mangled. There being no surgeon on
board I officiated in dressing his wounds.
Passed, on the second, Point Girardou, fifty miles above
the mouth of the Ohio. It is pleasantly situated upon a
bluff on the west side of the Mississippi. It has a fine
prospect of the river, and might, under the hand of indus.
try, become a desirable place; but the French Catholics are
not an enterprising people, and it has the appearance of
decay. We moved but slowly against the wind and current.
2*





22


FPAIRIES ON FIRE.


The fires of the prairies coming over the bluffs presented a
very pleasing scene this evening. The bluffs are two hun.
dred feet high, and extend one or two miles along the river.
At a considerable distance they appeared like an illuminated
city, but as we approached and had a nearer view, the illusion was dissipated. The fires had advanced nearly over the
bluffs, and curtained them with a moderately ascending
blaze, drawn up on the bluffs and let down in festoons in
the ravines; and the counter part reflected from the smooth
waters of the broad Mississippi, added much to the beauty
and grandeur of the prospect.
A short stay was made on the third, at the landing of St.
Genevieve. The village is situated a mile back from the
river on the west side, and is inhabited almost entirely by
French, who are slow to depart from the customs and manners established by their forefathers, who have long since
passed away. To adopt new improvements would be a step
next to giving up their catholic religion and turning infidel.
It is amusing to see the manner they yoke their oxen, and
to learn the reason they assign for so doing. The yoke is
composed of a straight piece of wood, fastened to the back
side of the horns by straps of leather. They say, that in this
way, they save the whole power of the animal; but that the
yoke, bowed to the neck, and drawn back to the shoulder,
loses the power of the head and neck. Their reasoning may
satisfy themselves, but would not the thorough.going New
England farmer.
To-day Herculaneum appeared in sight, which is situated
on the west side of the river, thirty-five miles below St. Louis.
It is almost surrounded by high precipitious hills, having
only a narrow space for a village. There are several shottowers, placed on the brink of high bluffs, in which cona




GAMBLING.


siderable business is done. Large quantities of lead, brought
from the mines, are sold and carried to distant markets.
In travelling upon these waters, it is painful to see how
few books of any value there are on board the steam-boats.
Some novels are found, but the most of them are of a licentious character. Thousands of those who navigate these
rivers are going to the judgment regardless of the interests
of their souls, and almost entirely destitute of the Bible. It
gave great offence to many, that we should have religious
worship in the ladies' cabin, as we did by invitation.Complaints of obtrusion were made-" Obtruding religion
-no place for such things."  But profanity and gambling
are no obtrusion; they are always in time and always in
place. Christians must keep religion out of sight and
hearing, but the wicked may be as open and obtrusive as they
please. They would not have Christians cast their pearls
before swine. Gambling is practised on board the steamboats upon these waters to a very great extent, and is a favorite amusement with those whose minds are not sufficiently cultivated to find satisfaction in reading, or intelligent conversation. The number of black-legs who make
gambling their business of life is great, and they are adepts
in their profession, as their success depends very much upon
their skill in deception, and decoying the inexperienced.
On the evening of the fourth, we arrived at St. Louis.
This is a flourishing business place, situated on the west
side of the Mississippi, two hundred miles above the mouth
of the Ohio, and twenty miles below the mouth of the Missouri, and resembles Albany, N. Y. The ground ascends
for about a half mile from the river, and then spreads out
into a widely extended plain, partly covered with shrubbery,,
back of which are open prairies.





24


ST. LOUIS.


In the parts of the town built by the French, the streets
are narrow. This may have been done to accommodate
their propensity to be sociable, by enabling them to con.
verse from the windows across the streets. The French
population, with a few exceptions, are Roman Catholics,
noted for their indolence and dissipation.  Gambling is
their favorite amusement; and they have houses devoted to
this object, with signs up, like those of whiskey venders.,
As gambling does not increase wealth, there are but few
rich, enterprising men among the French population.Drunkenness is not common, and the temperance cause is
doing much to remove what exists. Eastern enterprise and
influence is gaining ground since the town has been brought
under the laws of the United States; and a new impulse is
given to business. This is the central place in the west for
the fur trade, which is carried on by the American Fur
Company to a considerable extent; and also much business
is done in lead, which is obtained at Galena. A great
number of steam-boats and other water craft, of various
descriptions and destinations, are seen here at almost all
seasons of the year. Adventurers, of almost every descrip.
tion of character and nation, collect here, such as trappers,
hunters, miners, and emigrants, as a starting point from
whence to go into the still far west, many of whom seek
a miserable fortune among the Rocky Mountains. The
local situation of this town is such, that it will undoubtedly
continue to be one of the first places for trade in the great
valley of the Mississippi. There are five houses of worship,
four Protestant and one Roman Catholic. The Catholic
cathedral is built of stone, and is a large, expensive building.
The Protestant influence is increasing, and there are here
many active, devoted Christians, who exert a salutary influ.





DR. WHITMAN.


ence upon the town and vicinity around. The population
is fifteen thousand.
Doctor Marcus Whitman had already arrived here, who
is appointed by the American Board of Commissioners for
Foreign Missions to be my associate. Hie came through
the central parts of Ohio, Indiana and Illinois, and arrived
a few days before me. On the 7th, we had an interview
with Mr. Fontenelle, who takes charge of the caravan sent
out by the American Fur Company. The caravan proceeds
a very little beyond the Rocky Mountains, for the purpose
of carrying out goods for the Indian trade, and for the supply of their men who are engaged in hunting and trapping,
and returns with the furs which they have taken during the
year. There are about three hundred men constantly employed in and about the mountains, and more than sixty
who constitute the caravan. With a much less number it
would be unsafe to perform this journey, as there are hostile
tribes of Indians on the way, viz: the Arickaras, the Crows,
and Blackfeet. Mr. Fontenelle kindly offered to accommo.
date us with such advantages as may be afforded in his
caravan. Finding it necessary to leave this place to-day
for Liberty, which is one of the most western towns in the
United States, we were very busily employed in making
preparation for the journey, and in calling upon and bidding
farewell to Christian friends. A fire last night destroyed
a very large livery stable, in which we lost a horse, saddle,
and bridle. The old cathedral, which was used for a storehouse, was also burnt, together with a very large quantity
of crockery which it contained.





26


ACCIDENT.


CHAPTER II.
Leave St. Louis for Liberty-passage up the Missouri-snags-a walk
on shore-Jefferson city-River scenery-Steam-Boat Siam-Sand
bars-Lexington-Steam-Boat disaster-Liberty-Navahoc Indians
-ride to Cantonment Leavenworth-amusing provincialismsCaravan commence their journey-first encampment-Iowa Indians-Blacksnakc hills-Nodaway river-Elk-cross the Ncshnabotana-Rich soil-rapid rise of the north branch of Neshnabotana
-mode of living-mounds of the west-crossing of the MissouriBellevue-Missionaries.
AT five o'clock, P. M. we went on board the steam-boat
St. Charles, Capt. Shellcross, and ascended the river twenty
miles; anchored at the confluence of the Missouri and
Mississippi, and lay by for the night, as it was dangerous
to proceed, on account of the many snags and sand bars in
the Missouri.
On the eighth, proceeding up the Missouri by rather slow
progress, the first stop was made at St. Charles, which is
twenty miles above the confluence of this river with the
Mississippi, and the same distance north-west from St.
Louis. This is a pleasantly situated village, upon the north
side of the river. The country around is interesting, and the
soil of superior quality.  An enterprising Christian population would make this one of the most desirable places in the
west. Soon after we left the shore, a boy six years of age, fell
overboard, but, from the swiftness of the current, and as the
boat was under full way, there was no opportunity to save
him. He was seen floating a short time, but before the yawl
could be loosed from its fastening, and manned, he sunk





JEFFERSON CITY.


27


and was seen no more. His mother, a widow, and her
family, were removing from Kentucky to Franklin, Mo.
The mother and the children lamented greatly and loudly.
Near the middle of the day, on the ninth, we struck a
snag or rock, so deep beneath the turbid water, that we
could not determine which it was, and it became necessary
to repair one of the wheels of the boat, which was much
injured. This afforded an opportunity to go on shore.
Several of my fellow voyagers and myself ascended one of
those high bluffs, which frequently skirt this river. This
was accomplished by climbing on our hands and feet up an
elevation of several hundred feet. Here we had a delightful
view of the surrounding country, with its intermingled
prairie and wood land, its cultivated spots, and its hills and
dales. But in attempting to return, a new difficulty inter.
posed. I said we ascended on our hands and feet-could
we return in the same way? We were compelled, by descending backwards, to use much caution, and letting our.
selves down by the grass, or sometimes a shrub or tree, and
assisting each other, we came safely to the shore. We also
visited a place, some distance below this, where Lewis and
Clark encamped three days, the state of the river being
such that they could not ascend with their batteaux. Many
wild turkeys were seen along upon the uninhabited shores.
The boat stopped on the llth, at Jefferson city, the capital
of the state, situated on the south side of the river, upon a
high eminence, a little above the Osage river. It has a
great name for so small a place. The state house is of a
size which would be decent for a small academy; and the
governor's house would do very well for a common farmer's
house in the country, but not such as we should expect for a
governor in Jeferson City. But the state of Missouri is





28


SAND BARS.


comparatively new, and this place may in time support its
name.
Sabbath, the 12th, I remained in my state room, and endeavored to observe the day according to the commandment.
Thoughts of the sabbath schools engaged in their pleasant
exercises, in the Christian land of my home, and the many
entering the sanctuary to enjoy its privileges, often entered
my mind.
On Monday we passed Boonsville and Franklin, small
villages, which have a country of rich land around
them, and when brought under good cultivation, must rise
in importance. The scenery up this river is sufficiently
diversified to excite interest and to charm. The trees along
the shores are mostly oak and cotton-wood, with some hacberry and buckeye, and it is interesting to see how easily
and how deep they take root in the free rich soil along the
river. Frequently, where the banks are washing away, the
roots of the trees are exposed to full view, and generally
there is only a large central root descending ten or twelve
feet, with small ones branching out, presenting the appearance of an inverted cone. The river makes nothing of
washing away, and forming islands. Sand bars and snags
are so common, that, by being accustomed to them, we
hardly think of danger.
We found the steam-boat Siam, Capt. L., at Chariton, on
board of which the St. Charles put her freight and passen.
gers, and returned; both boats having so far discharged
their freight, that one could proceed with the remainder.
When under way, the boat run upon a sand bar, which gave
it a sudden whirl about, apparently threatening a disaster,
but the quicksand of which the bar was composed, soon
washed away, and we went ahead again. Running aground





A CONTRAST.


29


in this river is a very different thing from what it would be
in most waters; for the bars are so generally formed of
quicksand, that in most instances the current around the
boat sets all clear.
Soon after getting under way, on the 16th, we ran upon a
bar, where we were detained two and a half hours, and so frequently were we upon these obstructions, that we made only
five miles before one o'clock, P. M. Called at Lexington, a
village pleasantly situated one mile back from, the landings
and surrounded by a fine country. We made only about
fifteen miles headway to-day, which is so slow, that it would
be more pleasant traveling by land; and also to be free
from imprisonment with shockingly profane swearers and
gamblers, most of whom are intemperate.
It was necessary to spend the nineteenth, another sabbath,
on board the steam-boat. How great a contrast to the
sacredness of the day when it is enjoyed in the Christian
family circle; or in the sanctuary where God is worshiped
in the great congregation; or in the quiet, unobtrusive
sabbath school, where attentive minds sit down to study the
word of God, that they may practice its precepts, and where
the teachers are heard explaining and enforcing divine
truth upon the young and tender conscience.
As we passed along, I saw many children standing on the
banks of the river, and thought how benevolent persons at
the east had desired their religious instruction, and how
much had been done for the enterprise; but it had failed to
reach these. I also reflected on the examples of infidelity
and vice around them, by which they are educated for destruction, and endeavored to ask the Great Benefactor of
all to do that for them which it was not in my power to do.
I contrasted in my mind the difference between kindred
4





30


MORMONS.


souls in sweet communion in the service of God to-day, and
the unrestrained wickedness of ungodly men, which my eyes
and ears were witnessing, and said, when will the kingdoms of
this world become the kingdoms of our Lord and his Christ.
About the middle of the day, the captain and his men
appeared to be given up to blind infatuation. The Siam
was a new, well-built boat, had four boilers, and it was her
first season. They appeared to regard no bounds in raising
and applying steam. Such was the power under which
the boat labored, that she more than trembled. For a long
time I expected some disaster-looked at the captain to see
if I could discover any apprehensions of danger. There
was no want of evidence that there was a free use of ardent
spirits. Soon the disaster came, less extensive than I feared;
the main shaft, which was large and made of iron, broke,
and farther procedure was impossible.
Monday, 20th. The day was spent in endeavoring to find
some remedy for the disaster, but all to no purpose. It
only remained to discharge her cargo upon the wilderness
shore, let her passengers take care of themselves, and return
with one wheel, like a crippled winged fowl. Two miles
above us lay the steam-boat Nelson, upon a sand bar high
and dry. She ran aground upon the sabbath, and being
left by a freshet in the river, is waiting for another, to be
liberated. Our captain remarked at dinner to-day, that
most of the accidents which happen to steam.boats take
place on the sabbath; and that he did not believe it would
be long before they would not run on that day. We engaged a man to take us in a wagon to Liberty, and towards
evening went out into a small neighborhood of Mormons,
where we lodged. They had fled from Jackson county, which
they call their promised land, and to which they say they





LIBERTY.


31


shall return. They are a poor deluded people, and when
they speak of their persecutions, they do not imitate the
spirit of our Savior, who. when he was reviled, reviled not
again, and when he suffered, threatened not.
We rode on the 21st, twelve miles to Liberty, through a
very pleasant and fbrtile country, thinly inhabited, well
supplied with woods, and sufficiently undulating and hilly to
"render it healthy. It was at that opening season of the
"year, when:i nature, arousing itself from the sleep of winter,
appears with renovated beauty. Not only man, but flowers,
and trees, and birds, seemed to enjoy the season and the
scene. I was much charmed with the wood duck, (A.
Sponsa) which here were numerous; the variety of its colors seemed adapted to the beauty of the scenery which surrounded us. And the sprightly deer did not seem to accelerate its movements so much by fear, as by love of flight.
Liberty is a small village, situated three miles north of
the river, and is the county town of Clay. It has a courthouse of brick-several stores, which do considerable business, a rope-walk, and a number of decent dwelling houses.
Continued in this place about three weeks, waiting for
the caravan to get in readiness. At this place it formsmen, horses and mules, and wagons, are collected and put
in readiness; and from this place commences the long journey for the west. While we remained here, we had an
opportunity to collect much information from those who
have been to and beyond the Rocky Mountains, in regard to
the country, made of traveling, and concerning the various
Indian tribes on the way. Capt. Ford and Lieut. Stein from
Fort Leavenworth, were also here. They are both professors
of religion, and appear to be well acquainted with the Indian
country. Lieut. S. has been much among the Indians, was





32


CANTONMENT LEAVENWORTH.


out with the dragoons the last year-and was among the
Pawnee Picts. He gives a very favorable account of them,
and thinks the way is open to establish a mission among
them with fair prospects of success. He also thinks the
way is prepared, or is preparing, for a mission among the
Camanches, who heretofore have been hostile, but now wish
for peace and trade with the Americans. I saw also a Mr.
Vaughn of this place, a Baptist professor, who has made two
trips to Santa Fe, and has resided two years in that place.
He gives a very favorable account of the Navahoes, a tribe
who number about two thousand warriors. Their country
lies between the head waters of the Rio Del Norte and the
eastern branches of Rio Colorado. They carry on agriculture to a very considerable extent; have large herds of cattle and horses, and flocks of sheep; and have many domestic manufactures and houses of good construction. They
are friendly to the Americans, but not to the Spaniards.
Mr. V. thinks they would readily receive Protestant missionaries, and would prefer them  to Roman Catholics,
because of their hostility to the Spaniards. Ile also speaks
well of the Paches, or Apaches, a small tribe on the DelNorte towards old Mexico. These have been at war three
years with the Spaniards.
Saturday, May 9th, rode twenty-six miles to Cantonment Leavenworth, which is situated on the west side of
the Missouri river, nearly twenty miles out of the United
States. The way is through a fertile section of country,
part of the distance is an open prairie, other parts are handsomely wooded, and all well adapted to cultivation. I had
an introduction to several of the officers, and made my
home at 1 deut. S's, an agreeable and religious family.
I preached three times on the sabbath, and most of the





SINGULAR VIEWS.


people of the garrison assembled, and gave good attention,
There are a very considerable number of professors of religion attached to this station, but they have no chaplain
to teach and lead them in their devotions, which is a defi.
ciency in our military establishments. Colonel Dodge and
some of the other offcers appear disposed to maintain good
order, and I should think they exert a salutary influence.
I had an opportunity, before I returned to Liberty, to take
a view of the fort and the adjacent country. There is much
here to captivate. The buildings of the fort are situated
within an enclosure around a large, beautiful square, which
is covered with green grass, and adorned with shade trees.
The whole is on an elevation of a few hundred feet, and has
an interesting prospect of the majestic river flowing on si.
lently below. The fertile country around presents a wide
and fine prospect, and when settled by an industrious population, will equal the most favored parts of the earth.
Liberty, and the country around, is inhabited by people of
considerable enterprise, and when it shall be brought under
Christian influence, there will be but few places more inviting.
There is but one Presbyterian minister in this county, a man,
of talents and very respectable attainments, and who is exerting a good influence. The Baptists in this section of country are unlike those of the east. They are opposed to the
benevolent operations of the day. Elder H. the pastor of
the church in this place, invited Rev. Mr. Merril, a Baptist
missionary, located among the Otoe Indians of the Platte, and
myself; to preach for him the first sabbath after our arrival.
His people objected, apprehensive that Mr. Merril would say
something about the cause of temperance, or missionary
efforts, and Elder H. had to withdraw his invitation. They
profess to act from Christian principles in refusing to give
4*





34


PROVINCIALISMS.


their minister any thing for support, lest they should make
him a hireling.
It is amusing to observe the provincialisms which are
common in this part of the country. If a person intends
to commence a journey some time in the month, for instance,
in May; he says, "I am going in all the month of May."
For a large assembly of people, they say, " a smart sprinkle
of people." The word " balance," comes into almost every
transaction-" will you not have a dessert for the balance of
your dinner?'"-- to make out the balance of his night's rest,
he slept until eight in the morning."  If your baggage is
to be carried, it will be asked, "shall I tote your plunder?"
This use of the word plunder, is said to have originated in
the early predatory habits of the borderers. They also
speak of a " mighty pleasant day"-" a mighty beautiful
flower"-" mighty weak."  A gentleman, with whom I form.
ed some acquaintance, invited me, when I should make "an
outing" for exercise, to call at his house; for his family
would be "mighty glad" to see me."
During our continuance in this place, we were hospitably
entertained at the house of J. B. Esq. one of the judges of
the county court. We felt under many obligations to him
and Mrs. B. not only for their liberality, but also for the
privilege of retirement in so kind and intelligent a family.
Nor would we be unmindful of the hospitality shown us by
Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Y.
May 15th, all things being in readiness, we commenced
our journey for Council Bluffs, directing our course northwest. We did not get to-day beyond the boundaries of the
United States, and for the last time, for a long period to come,
I lodged in the house of a civilized family.
The next day, we traveled twenty miles, which brought us





INDIAN TRIBES.


beyond the limits of civilization, and into the Indian country, and encamped on a prairie surrounded with wood. The
sensations excited by the circumstances of our situation
were peculiar, and such as I had not before felt;-in a wil.
derness, inhabited by unseen savages and wild beasts, en.
gaged in setting our tent, preparing supper with only a few
articles of furniture, the ground for our chairs, table, and
bed. But all was conducted in good style; for I would not
dispense with attention to decencies, because beyond the
boundaries of civilization; and having adjusted every thing
in good order, and offered up our evening devotions, we retired to rest. But how to adjust all the anxieties and feelings
of the mind, so as to obtain the desired repose, was a more
difficult task.
On the 17th, crossed over the east, or little Platte, which
is a very considerable river, and spent the sabbath with Mr.
Gilmore, a Methodist professor, and governmental black.
smith for the Iowa Indians. Saw many Indians of the
Iowa, Sioux, and Fox tribes. Among these a Fox Indian
and his wife were noble-looking persons, having their faces
painted with unmixed vermilion; the former entirely, and
the latter in stripes. They felt too important to be seen
noticing what was transpiring around, and seemed to think
themselves the only objects to be noticed.
Here is an excellent fertile tract of country, and nothing
discouraging for a missionary station, except the contaminating influence of vicious white men. The natives wish
to cultivate their land, probably more from necessity than
on any other account; for their game is mostly gone. One
of them came to Mr. Gilmore to get some ploughs, and remarked, "it is hard work to dig up our ground for corn by
hand." The Sioux here are only a small band, who would





36


CROSSING THE NODAWAY.


not join Black Hawk in his war against the United States,,
and who are now afraid to return to their own country.
Their condition is becoming more and more wretched; for
while they have not the knowledge, the means, nor much of
the inclination, necessary to cultivate their lands advantageously, they have an insatiable thirst for ardent spirits;,
and there are too many unprincipled men on our frontiers,
who, for the sake of gain, will supply them with the means
of drunkenness and destruction.
Leaving Mr. G., gratefully remembering his hospitality,
we rode on Monday, twelve miles to Blacksnake Hills. At
this place Mr. Rubedoux has a trading post, and an uncommonly fine farming establishment on the Missouri river.
His buildings are on a small elevation of land, having a
delightful prospect in front of more than a thousand acres
of open bottom land, lying along down the river; and hills
on the north and east partially covered with woods. What
has nature not wrought without the labor of man? The
herds of cattle, and other domestic animals, have as wide a
range as they choose, and fences are necessary only lo secure fields for cultivation.
The Indians here have a new mode of disposing of their
dead. A scaffold is raised about eight feet high, upon which
the dead are placed in rudely constructed coffins overspread
with skins.
Having obtained a supply of milk, I encamped out, pre.
ferring the field to the house, where I might have been
subjected to many kinds of annoyances.
For several days nothing in particular occurred. On the
22d, we crossed the Nodaway river with a raft; the construction of which, and transporting our baggage, occupied
most of the day. To construct a raft, a number of dry logs





NEW DIFFICULTIES.


37


are collected, and secured together, side by side, with
barks stripped from elm trees; some few men swim across
the river, taking with them one end of a rope, while the
other end is fastened to the raft; it is then shoved off, the
men upon the other side of the river pulling upon the rope.
The raft is generally drifted considerably down stream, before it is brought to land upon the opposite shore. In this
manner they crossed and re-crossed, until the baggage was
carried over. Then follows the swimming over the horses,
which is attended with noise enough-hallooing of men,
snorting of the horses, and throwing sticks and stones to
prevent them, after having gone part of thie way over, from
returning.
We saw many elk, but they were too wary to be approached, and too fleet to be chased, and our hunters were
not sufficiently successful to obtain any. They are very
large, and when their horns are on, make a very majestic
appearance.   We frequently found their horns on the
prairie, some of which were four feet long, with large widespreading branches.
Sabbath, the twenty-fourth, passing over a brook near
which we had encamped the evening before, my companion
and myself remained for the day, while the caravan went
on. The movements of the caravan are so slow, that we
felt confident we could overtake them without any difficulty,
and as there was no danger from hostile Indians, we considered it our duty to rest on this holy day. The day was
very warm for May, the thermometer standing, at two in the
afternoon, at 88~.
The next day we overtook the caravan before night, and
crossed the south branch of the Neshnabotana on a raft.
Some of the men of the caravan, if not all, were much dis




38, NEW DIFFICULTIES.


pleased, because we did not travel with them on the sabbath.
To express their displeasure, they cut some of the barks.
with which the raft they had made was bound together, and
set it adrift. Providentially it did not drift far before it
lodged against a tree, and, without much loss of time, we
repaired it and passed over.
On the twenty-sixth, came to the main branch of the
Neshnabotana, and commenced making a raft, the finishing
of which and crossing took most of the following day. The
soil of this part of the country is rich, and the grass for our
horses excellent; but there are none here to till the ground,
nor to gather in the ten thousand tons of hay, which might
be made from the spontaneous growth. This part of the
country does not yet answer the end for which it was created. The time will come, when a dense population will
cover this country, who will render the sacrifice of prayer
and praise to our God.
On the 28th, we rode eleven miles and came to the north
branch of the above mentioned river. After we had made
a raft, we had a very difficult time of crossing. The water
was continually and rapidly rising, and before we finished
crossing, the banks were overflowed to considerable depth;
and the alluvial soil was rendered too soft to sustain our horses, and they sunk so deep that they could not get along.
After searching for a long time, a place was found sufficiently hard to bear up our animals when unloaded. We had to
carry our baggage upon our shoulders about fifteen rods,
part of the way in water mid deep, going forward and returning until all was carried to better ground; and then we
had to ride one mile to thedry prairie in water one and two
feet deep. We rejoiced to find ourselves once more on firm
footing. Encamped by a stream of clear water, which is





MOUNDS OF THE WEST.


39


rare in this part of the country, and especially at this season of the year. The waters of all this portion of country,
especially of the Missouri river and its large tributaries, are
very turbid, owing to the nature of the soil over which they
pass. A pail full of water, standing half an hour at the sea.
sons of freshets, will deposit three-eighths of an inch of
sediment; and yet the water, when settled, appears to be of
good quality.
Our mode of living, from day to day, had already neces.
sarily become uniform. Dry bread and bacon constituted
our breakfast, dinner, and supper. Our bacon we cooked,
when we could obtain wood for fire; but when " out of
sight of land," that is, when nothing but green grass could
be seen, we eat our bacon without cooking. A very few of
the simplest articles of furniture were sufficient for our culi-.
nary purposes. The real wants of life are few, artificial
ones are numerous.
30th. Drew near to Council Bluffs, and passed down from
the high rolling prairie, through a vale two or three miles
long, and a half mile wide, into the rich alluvial, and widely
extended valley of the Missouri, through a section of coun.
try of uncommonly interesting scenery.  The mounds,
which some have called the work of unknown generations
of men, were scattered here in all varieties of forms and
magnitudes; and thousands in number, and perhaps I may
say ten thousands. Some of these mounds were conical,
some eliptical, some square, and others parallelograms.
One group of these attracted my attention more than any
others. They were twelve in number, of conical form, with
their bases joined, and twenty or thirty feet high. They
formed about two-thirds of a circle, with an area of two
hundred feet in diameter. If these were isolated, who would





40


MOUNDS OF THE WEST.


not say they are artificial? But when they are only a
group of ten thousand others, which have as much the ap.
pearance of being artificial, who will presume to say they
are the work of man? But if they are the work of art,
and attest the number, the genius, and perseverance of departed nations, whose works have survived the lapse of ages,
we would interrogate the authors; but no voice replies to
ours. All is silent as the midnight grave. " The mind
seeks in vain for some clue to assist it in unraveling the
mystery. Was their industry stimulated by the desire to
protect themselves against inroads of invaders, or were they
themselves the aggressors?"  "Are they the monuments of
western Pharaohs, and do they conceal treasures which may
yet be brought to light?" There is nothing plainer than
that they were never designed as works of defence. But
some, while they admit they were not designed for offensive
or defensive operations of belligerent powers, suppose they
were erected as " mausoleums, and that the difference in
their size was intended to convey an idea of the difference in
the relative importance of those whose bones they cover."
If this theory is true, the La Trappe op the Mississippi,
which I had an opportunity of examining on my northern
tour, which is as much as one hundred and fifty feet high,
and covering about six acres, must inclose mighty bones, or
the bones of a mighty monarch. I would not be understood to dissent from the belief, that there are artificial
mounds in the great valley of the west, but I believe there
is a great mistake upon this subject. It is said, by those
who advocate the belief, that they are the work of ancient
nations, that they present plain evidence of this, from the
fact that they contain human bones, articles of pottery,
and the like, which evince that they were constructed for





PAWNEE MISSION.


41


burying places of the dead. That some of them have been
"utsed for burying places, is undoubtedly true; but may it not
be questionable whether they were made, or only selected for
burying places. No one, who has ever seen the immense
numbers scattered through the valley of the Mississippi,
will ever be so credulous as to believe, that a five hundredth
part of them are the work of man.
We crossed the Maragine river, which, though very deep,
was not so wide, but that we constructed a bridge over it.
Proceeding many miles through the rich bottom lands of the
Missouri, we crossed this noble river over against Bellevue,
in a large canoe, and swam our horses and mules across,
which, considering the width of the river and the strength
of the current, required much effort. I went to the agency
house, where I was happy to find brethren Dunbar and Allis,
missionaries to the Pawnees, under the direction of the
American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions.
There is a Baptist mission here, composed of Rev. Moses
Merrill and wife, Miss Brown, and a Christian Indian woman, a descendant of Rev. D. Brainard's Indians. They
are appointed by the Baptist Board to labor among the
Otoe Indians, about twenty-five miles from this place, on
the river Platte. These Indians are away fi-om their intended residence about half the time, on hunting excur.
sions.
A little more than a half mile below the agncy, the
American Fur Company have a fort, and, in connexion,
they have a farming establishment and large numbers of
tattle and horses, and a horse power mill for grinding cornm


5





42


BEAUTIFUL SCENERY.


CHAPTER III.
Continuance at Council Bluffs-interesting scenery-Indian curiosity
-information obtained about several Indian tribes-Spasmodic
Cholera-an Indian chief killed-leave Bellevue for the Black Hills
-storm of rain-heavy thunder storm-Elkhorn river, the country
around-Loups fork of the Platte-manner of encamping-Big
Ax, Pawnee chief-Indian feasting-fourth of July-Messrs.
Dunbar and Allis-thunder storm-Indian Ornaments-effects of
drunkenness-bite of a rattle-snake-buffalo seen-prairie horse.
fly-forks of the Platte-want of wood-swiftness of antelopesclimate-thousands of buffalo-badgers-prairie dog-interesting
bluffs-old castle-the chimney, or beacon-an alarm-Ogallallah
Indians, their lodges-Black Hills.
CONTINUED in this place three weeks, waiting the movements of the caravan, who made slow progress in preparing
their packages for the mountains. During our continuance
here, I frequently walked over the hills bordering upon the
west of the valley of the Missouri, to enjoy the pure air of
the rolling prairies, and "to view the magnificent prospects
unfolded in the vale below. From the summit of those pro.
minences, the valley of the Missouri may be traced until
lost in its winding course among the bluffs.  Six miles below, is seen the Papillon, a considerable stream from the
north-.west, winding its way round to the east. and uniting
with the Missouri, six miles above the confluence of the
Platte, coming from the west. These flow through a rich
alluvial plain, opening to the south and south-west as far as
the eye can reach. Upon these meadows are seen feeding
some few hundreds of horses and mules, and a herd of cat.





MISSIONARY PROSPECTS.


43


tie; and some fields of corn diversify the scenery. The
north is covered with woods, which are not less important
than the rich vales. But few places can present a prospect
more interesting, and when a civilized population shall add
the fruits of their industry, but few places can be more desirable.
In respect to efforts for the religious instruction and con.
version of the Indians, I am convinced, from all I can learn
of their native character, that the first impressions which
the missionary makes upon them, are altogether important
in their bearings on successful labors afterwards.  In
things about which they are conversant, they are men; but
about other things, they are children; and like children, the
announcement of a new subject awakens their attention,
their curiosity, and their energies; and it has been remarked by a Methodist missionary who has labored among the
Indians, that many seemed to embrace the gospel on its
first being offered, and that those among the adults, who
failed to do so, were rarely converted. If, from any motives, or from any cause, instruction is delayed, and their
expectations are disappointed, they relapse into their native
apathy, from which it is difficult to arouse them.
We had an opportunity, whilst we continued in this place,
to collect much information about the Indians in the Sioux
country, from Maj. P. the agent appointed by government
to the Yanktons, a band of the Sioux. He appears to be,
not only intelligent and candid, but also well disposed to.
wards Indian improvement. The following is the substance
of the information which he gave us in regard to several
tribes to the north and north-west of this place: that the
Omahaws are situated upon the Missouri, about one hundred
and fifty miles above this place, and number about two





44


MISSIONARY PROSPECTS.


thousand. They have been well disposed towards the whites,
but, owing to their intercourse with traders and trappers,
and abuses which they have received from them, they are
becoming more vicious in their habits, and less friendly.
And yet, kind treatment would conciliate their favor, so
that there would be nothing to fear but that a mission might
be established among them with fair prospect of success.
The Yanktons are an interesting band of the Sioux, of
about two thousand people. Their village is to be located
on the Vermilion river, where it unites with the Missouri
from the north. Maj. P. thinks this would be a very eligi.
ble place for a missionary station, and says he will do what
is in his power to aid such an enterprise.
The Ponca Indians, on the south side of the Missouri, at
the confluence of the L'eau qui coure, number six or eight
hundred, and speak the same language as the Omahaws.
The region of country, from the mouth of the Big Sioux
river and that on the south of the L'eau qui coure, as high
as the country of the Mandan Indians, may be classed
under the general head of the Sioux country; and is inhabited by the following bands of Sioux, viz: the Yanktons,
already mentioned, Santas, Yanktonas, Tetons, Ogallallahs,
Siones, and the Hankpapes, who course east and west from
the Mississippi to the Black Hills, and sometimes as far
south as the river Platte.  The real number of the relative
bands cannot he correctly ascertained, but probably it is
from forty to sixty thousand. Their habits are wandering,
and they rely exclusively upon the chase for subsistence.
Their principal trade is in buffalo robes. The traders have
for many years maintained a friendly intercourse with them,
and generally speaking, they are much attached to white
men.





A DISGRACEFUL OUTRAGE.


45


The Mandans are a much more stationary people than
almost any other tribe in this whole region of country, and
the opportunity to establish missionaries among them is
good; but on account of repeated ill treatment, which they
have experienced, they are beginning to grow suspicious,
and are losing confidence in white men.
Our stay in this place was protracted much beyond our
expectations. Two weeks after our arrival, the spasmodic
cholera broke out with a great degree of malignancy. The
weather was very warm, and there were showers from day
to day. The habits of the men and their accommodations,
probably had a tendency to induce the disease. Three died,
and undoubtedly many more would have died, had it not
been for the blessing attending the assiduous attention of
Doct. Whitman, my associate, and the free use of powerful
medicines. And, had it not been for his successful practice,
the men would have dispersed, and the caravan would have
failed of going to the place of rendezvous. This was plainly
seen and frankly acknowledged. God, in mercy, provided
the remedy before he inflicted the scourge. This alarming
disease was the means of urging our departure from this
place sooner than we otherwise should have done. It was
necessary to move from this place to the prairies, as the
only prospect of escaping the farther ravages of the disease.
Not a single new case occurred after we re-commenced our
journey.
Whilst at Bellevue, a man by the name of Garrio, a half.
blood Indian chief of the Arickara nation, was shot under
very aggravated circumstances. Garrio and his family
were residing in a log cabin on the Papillon river. Six or
seven men went down to his house in the night, called him
up, took him away a half mile, and shot him with six balls,
5*





46


PRAIRIE ENCAMPMENTo


scalped him, and left him unburied. The reason they as,.
signed for doing so, was, that he was a bad man, and had
killed white men. If he was guilty, who authorized them
to take his life? The Arickara nation will remember this,
and probably take revenge on some innocent persons. This,
I apprehend, is the way Indian wars are produced. While
we charge the Indians with inveterate ferociousness and
inhuman brutality, we forget the too numerous wrongs and
outrages committed upon them, which incite them to revenge. They cannot apprehend and do justice to such offenders. Or if they could, would it not be published as a
gross Indian murder and aggression, and a war of extermination be commenced against them. When Indian offences
are proclaimed, we hear only one side of the story, and the
other will not be heard until the last great day.
Monday, June 22. After so long delay, we re-commenced
our journey for the west. The Black Hills are to be our
next stopping place. The caravan started yesterday. We
passed over a rich extensive prairie, but so poorly watered,
that we did not find a stream of water through the whole
day. In the afternoon we had to ride in a heavy, cold rain,
in consequence of which I became much chilled. Overtook
the caravan, and encamped before night on a high prarie,
where we could find but little wood, and it was difficult to
make a fire. We had some coarse bread made of corn,
and some bacon, for supper. The change from the comforts
to the bare necessaries of life was trying; but when I had
wrapped myself in my blankets and laid down upon the
ground to repose for the night, I was comfortable, and felt
thankful to God for his goodness.
Being now beyond all white inhabitants, in an Indian
country, and not knowing what the eventful future may un.





A STORM.


47 -

fold, I thought I could give up all my private interests for
the good of the perishing heathen, if I could be instrumental of their temporal and eternal welfare. Come life or
death, I thought I could say, " thy will be done." Felt
strong confidence, that God would protect and provide for
us, and derived great consolation from the promise, " Lo I
am with you always."  The very pelting of the storm upon
our tent had something in it soothing, and calculated to excite the feeling that God was near.
On the 23d, the storm still continued, and we did not remove our encampment.
Towards noon on the 24th, went forward on our way
and crossed the Papillon river, which occasioned much delay to get our baggage, wagons, and animals over. We did
not find a suitable place for encamping until about sunset
where we could be accommodated with wood and water;
and before we could pitch our tent, a thunder storm, which
had been gathering for a long time, came down upon us with
great violence, accompanied with wind and hail. The animals of the caravan fled in different directions, some packed
and some unpacked. I had but just time to unpack my
mule and let him go, and it was with much difficulty I
could hold my horse, which had become almost frantic under the beating hail, nor did I escape without some contu.
sions. The lightning was very frequent, and the thunder
was almost one continual roar. After a while the fury of
the storm abated, and in the dark we pitched our tent
and got our baggage into it, but were not able to make a
fire. We took such supper as we could provide with our
coarse bread and bacon, without light and without fire, and
laid ourselves down to rest. During the night there were
several showers which created rivulets, some of which found&





48


A FRIENDLY MEETING.


their way under our tent. Towards morning we slept, and
arose somewhat refreshed.
The morning of the 25th was very pleasant, and afforded
a good opportunity to dry our baggage, and for the caravan
to collect together their goods, which were scattered over
the prairie. After having spent the forenoon in drying and
adjusting them, we went forward and arrived at the Elkhorn,
a very considerable river. For conveyance over this river,
we constructed a boat of a wagon body, so covered with
undressed skins as to make it nearly water tight. The
method was very good, aad we commenced crossing, but
night came on before we finished, and therefore we en.
camped on the east side. The country here is excellent,
and tolerably well supplied with wood.
On the 26th continued carrying over our baggage, and
finished crossing half after twelve, after which we traveled
ten miles up the Elkhorn, and stopped for the night.
On the 27th, arose very early and pursued our journey,
and made good progress until three, P. M. when we met
Messrs. Campbell and Sublette with a small caravan, returning from the Black Hills. When mountain traders meet
under such circumstances there must be mutual exchanges of
friendship, more ceremonious and complicated than can be
gone through with in the passing, " how do you do?"  The
two caravans encamped, in due form, and at respectful dis.
tance from each other.
Sabbath, 28th. The caravans continued here through
the day. This gave us an opportunity to rest, and to attend
to devotional exercises in our tent.
On the 29th, passed over and traveled a good distance up
Shell creek. As a traveler, I should be guilty of neglect of
duty, if I should not give a description of this section of
country, belonging to the Otoes on the east and the Pawnees





FUTURE PROSPECTS.


49


on the west. For about twenty-five miles since we crossed
the Elkhorn, and between this river and the Platte, which
are about ten miles apart, there is not a single hill. It is
rich bottom land, covered with a luxuriant growth of grass.
No country could be more inviting to the farmer, with only
one exception, the want of wood-land. The latitude is sufficiently high to be healthy; and as the climate grows warmer as we travel west, until we approach the snow-topped
mountains, there is a degree of mildness, not experienced
east of the Alleghany mountains. The time will come, and
probably is not far distant, when this country will be covered with a dense population. The earth was created for the
habitation of man, and for a theatre, on which God will
manifest his perfections in his moral government among his
moral creatures, and therefore the earth, according to divine
prediction, shall be given to the people of God. Although
infidels may sneer, and scoffers mock, yet God will accomplish his designs, and fulfil every promise contained in his
word. Then this amazing extent of most fertile land will
not continue to be the wandering ground of a few thousand
Indians, with only a very few acres under cultivation; nor
will millions of tons of grass grow up to rot upon the ground
or to be burned up with the fire enkindled to sweep over the
prairie, to disincumber it of its spontaneous burden. The
herds of buffalo which once fattened upon these meadows
are gone; and the deer which once cropped the grass have
disappeared; and the antelopes have fled away; and shall
solitude reign here till the end of time? No: here shall
be heard the din of business, and the church-going bell shall
sound far and wide. The question is, by whom shall this
region of country be inhabited? It is plain that the Indians under their present circumstances will never multipl




50


MANNER OF ENCAMPING.


and fill this land. They must be brought under the influ.
ence of civilization and Christianity, or they will continue
to melt away, until nothing will remain of them but relics
found in museums, and some historical records. Philanthropy and the mercy of God plead in their behalf.
We were awakened on the 30th, at the first breaking of
the day, by the call, " out, out; gear up your mules."  We
traveled until one o'clock, P. M. more than eight hours, when
we halted and breakfasted. We went again on our way,
and came to the Loups fork of the Platte, and stopped for
the night. Most of the country over which we traveled today was a rolling prairie. There is nothing in this section
of country to interest the geologist. I did not see a single
stone, after passing the Papillon to this place, excepting a
few small ones in the place where we crossed that stream,
and which on that account, is called Rockford. It is one
of the peculiarities of the dialect of the people in the west.
ernmost states, to call small stones rocks. And therefore
they speak of throwing a rock at a bird, or at a man. There
are no forests in these western regions. The meadows
spread out almost without bounds. There are only here
and there some clumps of trees; and the rivers and smaller
streams are skirted with cotton wood, elms, and willows.
Whatever propriety there once was, there is none now, in
calling the Indians, children of the forest.
The thermometer stood to-day, at noon, at 81~.
Wednesday, July 1st. I rested the last night as quietly
as I should have done in a civilized country, and upon a
good bed, and was cheerful in committing myself to God, to
awake in this, or in the eternal world, as he shall direct.
We have a small tent made of coarse cotton cloth, form.
ing a cone. After setting this, we stow away our baggage





MANNER OF ENCAMPING.


51


so as to leave a space in the centre, for our lodgings. My
bed is made by first spreading down a buffalo skin, upon
this a bear skin, then two or three Mackinaw blankets, and
my portmanteau constitutes my pillow.
We proceeded to-day a few miles up the Loups fork, and
unexpectedly found a good fording place, where we crossed
the river, which in this place is nearly a mile wide. After
going a few miles up the river, we halted for the night. The
manner of our encamping, is to form a large hollow square,
encompassing an area of about an acre, having the river on
one side; three wagons forming a part of another, coming
down to the river; and three more in the same manner on
the opposite side; and the packages so arranged in parcels,
about three rods apart, as to fill up the rear, and the sides
not occupied by the wagons. The horses and mules, near
the middle of the day, are turned out under guard, to feed
for two hours; and the same again towards night, until after
sunset, when they are taken up and brought into the hollow
square, and fastened with ropes twelve feet long, to pickets
driven firmly into the ground. The men are divided into
small companies, stationed at the several parcels of goods
and wagons, where they wrap themselves in their blankets
and rest for the night; the whole however are formed into
six divisions to keep guard, relieving each other every two
hours. This is to prevent hostile Indians from falling upon
us by surprise, or coming into the camp by stealth and
taking away either horses or packages of goods. We were
permitted, by favor, to pitch our tent next to the river, half
way between the two wings, which made our situation a
little more retired.
Nothing of special interest occurred on the second. On
the third, we passed the villages of the Tapage and Republi.





CHANGES OF THE RIVER.


can Pawnee Indians. These Indians have dwellings which
appear substantial and somewhat adapted to comfort. Many
of the Pawnee Loups came to us, and received us with great
civility and kindness.  Big Ax, their second chief, had
charge of this party. He is a man of dignified appearance,
and his countenance is expressive of intelligence and bene.
volence. He is very friendly to white men. These Indians
were going out upon their summer hunt, and by the same
route we were pursuing, and were not willing we should go
on before them, lest we should frighten away the buffalo.
They manifested their friendship in inviting us to feasts;
and as we may attend half a dozen in a day without being
surfeited, an explanation may not be out of place. Bix Ax
gave the first invitation; and as it is not customary for
those who provide the feast to sit down with their guests,
he and his associates sat in dignified silence on one side of
the lodge, while those of us who partook of the feast, occu.
pied the centre. The daughters of Bix Ax served us on
the occasion, and bountifully helped us to boiled corn and
beans. Such are their customs, that to avoid giving offence, we must eat all that is set before us, or take it away,
and Mr. Fontenelle took what remained. In the evening
we were invited to two others. The first consisted of boiled
corn and dried pumpkins, and the other of boiled buffalo
meat. We also gave the principal chiefs a feast, setting
before them all the variety which our bacon and coarse
bread could firnish, having it in our power to add a dish of
coffee, of which luxury we partook for this once on our
whole journey.
Amidst the uniformity of prairie scenery, there is yet
some variety. It was curious to mark the alterations which
time and flood have made in the channel of this river





CHANGES OF THlE RIVER.        5


53


Formerly, perhaps not a few centuries ago, the river ran a
hundred feet higher than 'at present, and it is probably
owing to the yielding nature of the soil that its waters are
so very turbid. The water of the Loups fork, however,
comparatively speaking, is quite clear.  This section of
country offers an interesting field for botanical research.
Since crossing the Elkhorn, I have noticed nine different
species of grass, most of which are entirely new. The
flowering plants are very numerous and beautiful, and especially the rose, which is found of almost every hue. Thermometer, at noon, 90'.
July 4th. This is a day of great noise and bustle in the
states. Orators speak of the deeds and achievements of
our forefathers: their audiences catch the spirit of patriotism. Not so with our company. Having almost expatriated themselves, they had forgotten their nation's birth-day;
and knowing that their days of indulgence would be seasons
of reveling, I forbore to remind them of it. How suitable
would be a rational religious expression of gratitude to
Heaven, instead of the confusion and riot, which are the
common demonstrations of joy on such occasions.
On the fifth, which was the Sabbath, the caravan went
forward a few miles and then encamped. The Indians were
constantly calling at our tent through the day. It was
painful to witness their poor degraded condition, ignorant of
God and salvation, and, for want of a knowledge of their
language, to he unable to point them to the -Savior, or teach
them their obligations to their Maker, and their duty to
turn to him with their whole heart. I hope and pray that
the Pawnee mission may prosper; that the disposition which
Messrs. Dunbar and Allis manifest to go with the Indians
and live as they live, may he followed up, until their teach6





54


A THIEF IN THE CAMP.


ing and influence are felt, and the Indians shall locate them.
selves upon their lands, under the influence of Christianity
and civilization. The mode which Messrs. D. and A. have
adopted of going with the Indians where they go, appears
to be the right one, and must be generally adopted to bring
the numerous wandering nations and tribes to the know.
ledge of Christ.
It is all important that the missionary be able to speak to
the heathen in the language wherein they were born. It is
also important that the Indians settle down and cultivate
the soil; but how can they be induced to do this before they
are taught? Do any say, by an interpreter? An interpreter may be employed for awhile, but the missionary must
become, as soon as possible, his own interpreter. And why
can he not learn the Indian language as well as the trader
and hunter? He can, if he will exercise as much self.
denial.
On the sixth, we left the Loups fork, very early in the
morning, in company with the Pawnees, and directed our
course south.west for the Platte river. Towards evening,
we had a thunder storm with heavy rains, which continued
through most of the night; but, protected by our tent, we
slept so soundly, that our meat was stolen from us; and, in
our circumstances, though only about six pounds, it was a
sensible loss.
After we came to the Platte, we pursued our way up the
river, which is broad, but not very deep, as its name indicates. The country begins to diminish in its fertility, but
still is very good.  We were prevented from making the
progress we might, if the Indians would have permitted us
to go on and leave them. The men of the caravan began
to complain of the delay, and had reason to do so, having





BIG AX, A rAWNEE CHIEF.       5


55


nothing to eat but boiled corn, and no way to obtain any
thing more before finding buffalo.
The intellectual powers of these Indians are very good,
but need cultivation. They are fond of ornaments, and not
having the means of gratifying their vanity, as civilized
people have, they resort to almost any thing to decorate
their persons; such as porcupine quills, beads, wreaths of
grass and flowers, brass rings upon their wrists, birds' feathers and claws of wild beasts; the claWs of a grizzly bear
are an ornament of the first order, and the tails of white
wolves are in high estimation. But their most universal
and particular ornament is painting their faces with vermilion.
These heathen, as all others, are ignorant of the benign
influence of the gospel, and therefore, while they have many
interesting traits of character, are cruel to their old men
and women. The women are compelled to do all the workthe men only hunt and go to war. Having but few horses,
when they journey, they place burdens upon their old men
and women, and even up)on the blind and lame-and their
dogs. I did not see among these Indians a single person
having any natural deformity, nor any one who appeared to
be deficient in common sense.
July 9th. To-day Big Ax came to my tent and sat by
me a long time. Never did I so much wish to converse
with any man and tell him about the Savior, and, from the
expression of his countenance, I thought he felt the same
desire. But the gift Of tongues was not imparted to me,
and we could only converse with the language of signs,
which is far more intelligible than f had anticipated.
The leader of our band, by a large present, purchased of
the Indians the privilege of going on to-morrow without





56


ATTEMPT TO MURDER.


them. Our men could hardly have been kept in subordina.
tion, if they had not consented.
Towards the night of the 10th, we had an uncommon
storm of thunder, hail, rain, and wind. The horses and
mules could not be controlled, and they turned and fled in
all directions before the storm. The whole caravan was
scattered; but when the storm abated, they were again collected without much difficulty, and nothing was lost. If
any hostile band of Indians had been about us, it would
have been easy for them to have made us a prey. But the
Lord not only rode upon the storm, but was also near for
our defence. The scene was alarming, and yet grand and
truly sublime.
Sabbath, 12th. We are in a land of dangers, but God
is our preserver, and how desirable it is, that his mercies
should be had in grateful remembrance, and that the portion
of time, which he has set apart as holy, should be observed
as such. The caravan traveled a part of the day, but were
under the necessity of stopping in consequence of rain,
which wet their packages. It is worthy of notice, that
there have been various providences, which have thus far
prevented them from traveling much upon the sabbath.
But this day has been one of great confusion and wicked.
ness.  In consequence of the men being drenched with
rain, whiskey was dealt out freely, to keep them from taking
cold. Most of them became much excited, and one, who
took an active part in killing Garrio, stabbed a man, with
full intent to have pierced his heart; but the knife, by
striking a rib, turned aside and only made a deep flesh
wound.
I think I know the feelings of David, when he expressed
a strong desire after the sanctuary of God, and to dwell in
his tabernacle.





PRAIRIE HORSE-FLY.


57


July 13th. We are not traveling through forests, nor a
solitary desert, but through almost boundless meadows, that
have the appearance of being under good cultivation. We
see no fields of grain, secured from the beasts of the earth
by fences, nor habitations of civilized men, but meadows
adorned with a great variety of plants, some of which appear to be gregarious. Often some acres are diversified
with great variety of colors and species.
There are two species of plants which are said to be a
sovercign remedy against the poison of the rattle-snake, the
virtues of one of which we had an opportunity of testing.
One of our men was bitten in the foot, and before we knew
it the poison had so far progressed, that both the foot and
leg had become much inflamed and very painful. One of
these plants was applied to the parts affected, and at once
the man was convalescent, and in a few hours was well.
The leaves of the plant resemble those of the blue flag, ex.
cept that they are serrated. The healing properties are
contained in the roots, which are bruised and applied to the
affected parts. Rattle-snakes are not numerous. These
and other reptiles are prevented from multiplying by the fires,
which every year run over the prairies.
On the 14th, the announcement of buffalo spread cheerfulness and animation through the whole caravan, and to
men whose very life depended on the circumstance, it was
no indifferent event. From the immense herds of these
wild animals, dispersed over these beautiful fields of nature,
we were to derive our subsistence. Although several were
seen to-day, yet our hunters were not very successful in obtaining many.
I had heard of the prairie horse-fly, but was not aware
that it would be so very annoying and even tormenting to
6*





58        BUFFALOS, THEIR APPEARANCE.


our horses. Its bite is like the thrust of the point of a
lancet, and when the fly is surfeited, or is brushed off, the
blood immediately gushes out. When the caravan is in
close company, there being about two hundred horses and
mules, the number of the flies are so divided that they are
more tolerable: but when for any purpose a horse is sepa.
rated from the company, he, is severely bitten by them.
On one occasion, when I rode forward to find a crossing
place over a deep, muddy stream of water, they came around
my horse in such swarms that he became firantic, and I was
obliged to return in full speed. I have no doubt that a horse
left alone in the season of these flies would be killed by
them.
The next day, we journeyed as usual, and about noon arrived at the Forks of the Platte. We saw a large herd of
buffalo, from which we obtained a good supply of excellent
meat. These animals, with their shaggy shoulders, neck,
and heads, present a very majestic appearance, and if their
natures were unknown, would be terriffic. But they are
timid and inoffensive, showing no disposition to injure any
person, except in self-defence, when wounded and closely
pursued. Their strength is great; and, although they look
clumsy, they run very swiftly. It requires a horse of more
than ordinary speed, to outrun them for any considerable
time.
The section of country about the Forks of the Platte is
very pleasant, without any high mountains in sight; but at
a distance beyond the widely extended rich bottom lands,
bluffs of various forms present a picturesque scenery. The
entire want of forests in a large space of country around,
is a desideratum which cannot be easily supplied; but prob.
ably forest trees might be cultivated to advantage. Is it





DEFENSIVE PREPARATIONS.


59


not highly probable that mineral coal will be found here as
well as upon the prairies in the western states? We found
no wood yesterday, nor to.day, and probably shall not
for some days to come; and therefore we have been under
the necessity of making our fires with the dry dung of the
buffalo. The most thoroughly weather-beaten is selected,
and proves to be a better substitute for common fuel than
we had anticipated. Although we are now where we had fears
of finding the Arickara Indians, the death of whose chief
has been mentioned, and who have been residing near this
place for several months past, yet we have seen no Indians
since we left the Pawnees. It is supposed they have gone
far up the south Fork of the Platte, to avoid the United
States dragoons, under the command of Col. Dodge, who
are on their way to call them to account for their conduct
towards white men, and to form with them a treaty of peace.
But they intend to keep out of the way of the dragoons,
and therefore we hope to pass unmolested.
We took our course up the north-west Fork of the Platte,
and towards night encamped upon its bank in our usual
form, using particular caution to be prepared for an attack
of the Arickaras, should any of their war parties be about
us. Every man was required to see that his rifle was in
good order, and to have a good supply of powder and balls.
We all slept with our clothes on, so that, if called by the
sentinel's fire, we might in less than a moment be ready for
action; but the night passed away in quietude, and at the
first breaking of the day we were awakened with the cus.
tomary call of the guide.
Saw, on the 16th, the buffalo in greater numbers, and
nearer than previously. They are less shy than those we
first found. They are more majestic than the elk, but less





60


CLIMATE AND OBJECTS CHANGE.


Sbeautiful. The antelopes, some of which we have seen for
several days past, are becoming very numerous. They are
rightly named; for their speed exceeds any animal I have
ever seen. Our hounds can do nothing in giving them the
chase; so soon are they left far in the rear, that they do not
follow them more than ten or twenty rods, before they return,
looking ashamed of their defeat. Our hunters occasionally
take some by coming upon them by stealth. When they
are surprised, they start forward a very small space, then
turn, and with high lifted heads, stare for a few seconds at the
object which has alarmed them, and then, with a half whis.
tling snuff, bound off, seeming to be as much upon wings as
upon feet. They resemble the goat, but are far more beautiful. Though they are of different colors, yet they are gen.
erally red, and have a large, fine, prominent eye. Their
flesh is good for food, and about equals venison.
July 17th. We did not go on our way as early this morning as usual, having been detained by breaking an axletree of one of our wagons. The country is becoming more
hilly, and the bluffs in some places come down to the river.
Herds of buffalo are seen in almost every direction, and
they are so numerous, that our animals find scanty pasture.
The thermometer stood at noon at 880. Encamped a little
below Cedar bluffs, so called from the few cedars scattered
over them, which promise a better supply of fuel.
Commenced our journey on the 18th, at our usual early
hour, to travel on until near noon before breakfast. From
the change of vegetation of various kinds, and birds, &c.
it is evident we are ascending into higher regions of country, and an atmosphere more resembling that of the New
England States. As we advance, the flowering plants are
becoming less numerous; and although the middle of the





BADGERS--PRAIRIE DOGS.


61


day is very warm, yet the nights and mornings are more
cool. The ascent is so gradual, that the change is not perceptible. Rocks begin to appear, and still we are far from
the Rocky Mountains. Limestone of a light brown color
is found in the bluffs, laying in horizontal strata, which
might be easily worked and to any extent. Very small
black gnats, hardly discernible by the naked eye, for some
days past have been numerous and very annoying; and
the bite is poisonous.
July 20th. Thousands of buffalo were seen to. day, and our
men amused themselves with chasing and shooting at them;
but it was well for the buffalo that they made poor shots.
I can hardly reconcile it with a good conscience, to trifle
with the life even of the most insignificant animals, yet, for
once, I felt myself powerfully inclined to try my horse in the
chase. The noble creature enjoyed the sport, and would have
rushed fearlessly into the midst of them, had I not held him
in check. At that time, not being sufficiently acquainted with
this species of amusement, and intending to make sure of
my victim, I dismounted in order to take a more steady aim
than I could have otherwise done; and by so doing, as our
guide afterwards informed me, I placed myself in imminent
danger; for the animal, if wounded, often turns upon his
antagonist to retaliate his injuries. Fortunately, though I
wounded one, he did not rise upon me, and I returned to
the caravan unconscious of danger.
Badgers inhabit this part of the country, and from the
many holes, which they dig in the ground for their dwell.
ings, they must be very numerous, though we have seen
only a few, and have killed but one. They keep near their
burrows, and run into them on the least approach of danger.
The badger is of the genus ursus, about the size of the mar.





62


THE OLD CASTLE.


mot, or what is often called the woodchuck, of a silvery
gray color, with short legs, and in its whole aspect is interesting. I did not have an opportunity to learn many of its
habits. A small animal called the prairie dog, abounds in
this section of country. It takes its name, not from its
appearance, but from its barking, which is like that of a
very small dog. It is of a brown color, and its fur is of
superior fineness. It is very shy and difficult to be taken.
Was it not for this last circumstance, I should think it might
be an important article of traffic.
We passed, on the 21st, many uncommonly interesting
bluffs composed of indurated clay; many of them very high,
with perpendicular sides, and of almost every imaginable
form. Some appeared like strong fortifications with high
citadels; some like stately edifices with lofty towers. I
had never before seen any thing like them of clay formation. And what adds to their beauty is, that the clay of
which they are composed, is nearly white. Such is the
smoothness and whiteness of the perpendicular sides and
offsets; and such the regularity of their straight and curved
lines, that one can hardly believe that they are not the work
of art.
It was a very warm day. The thermometer stood at
noon, at 90~, and five o'clock, P. M. at 100~. There were
no prairie winds as usual. Almost every day winds blow
over the prairies like sea breezes, or trade winds. They
generally commence about eight in the morning, and con.
tinue through the day. These winds render the traveling
comfortable, although the thermometer may range high.
We encamped to.day in the neighborhood of a great natural curiosity, which, for the sake of a name, I shall call
the old castle. It is situated upon the south side of the





THE CHIMNEY-A RUN FOR LIFE.


63


Platte, on a plain, some miles distant from any elevated
land, and covers more than an acre of ground, and is more
than fifty feet high. It has, at the distance of the width of
the river, all the appearance of an old enormous building,
somewhat dilapidated; but still you see the standing walls,
the roof, the turrets, embrasures, the dome, and almost the
very windows; and large guard-houses, standing some rods
in front of the main building.  You unconsciously look
around for the enclosures, but they are all swept away by
the lapse of time-for the inhabitants, but they have disap.
peared; all is silent and solitary. Although you correct
your imagination, and call to remembrance, that you are
beholding the work of nature, yet, before you are aware, the
illusion takes you again, and your curiosity is excited to
know who built this fabric, and what have become of the
by-gone generations. I found it impossible to divest myself
of such impressions. The longer and the more minutely I
examined it, the more I saw to admire; and it reminded me
of those descriptions of power and grandeur in ruins, of
which we read of ancient times and nations.
Encamped at noon of the 22nd, near another of nature's
wonders. It has been called the chimney; but I should say,
it ought to be called beacon hill, from its resemblance to
what was beacon hill in Boston. Being anxious to have a
near view, although in a land of dangers, I concluded to take
an assistant and pass over the river to it. The river where
we crossed was about a mile wide, shallow and full of quicksand, but we passed it without any particular difficulties.
We rode about three miles over a level plain, and came to
the base. This distance from the other side of the river
did not appear more than a mile, so deceptive are distances over plains without any landmarks. This beacon





64        THE CHIMNEY-A RUN FOR LIFE.


hill has a conical formed base of about half a mile in circumference, and one hundred and fifty feet in height; and
above this a perpendicular column, twelve feet square, and
eighty feet high; making the whole height about two hun.
dred and thirty feet. We left our horses at the base, and
ascended to the perpendicular. It is formed of indurated
clay or marl, and in some parts is petrified. It is of a
light chocolate, or rufous color, in some parts white. Near
the top were some handsome stalactites, at which my assistant shot, and broke off some pieces, of which I have taken
a small specimen. We descended, and having finished my
survey, had but just mounted our horses, when we saw
two bands of buffalo, six or eight hundred in number coming full speed towards us, taking their course down the
river.  We knew somebody must be pursuing them, and
as, from indications for two days past, we had suspected
Indians near, we thought it would be the safest for us to
make and secure a speedy retreat to the caravan, and set
off in haste for the river, which at the nearest point was
two miles distant. Very soon we saw a man on horseback
coming full speed towards us-he stopped and gave a signal
for others behind him to hasten on, and at once we saw a
band of men coming full rush. We put our horses to their
utmost speed, and when we thought our retreat to the river
fully secured, we stopped and took an observation with a
large spy-glass, which we had taken the precaution to have
with us, and found they were white men, who had come
from a fort of the American Fur Company at the Black
Hills, to meet the caravan. Mr. Fontenelle, the commander
of the caravan, saw the movement, was alarmed for our
safety, and came out in all haste, with a number of armed
men to our assistance. But all resulted in friends meeting





SCOTT'S BLUFFS.


65


friends. There were some Ogallallah Indians near us, who
came to our camp in the evening. Thermometer 900.
On the 23d, after traveling a few miles, we encamped
near Scott's bluffs. These are the termination of a high
range of land running from south to north. They are very
near the river, high and abrupt, and what is worthy of notice,
there is a pass through the range a short distance back from
the river, the width of a common road, with perpendicular
sides two or three hundred feet high. It appears as though
the part forming the bluffs had been cut off, and moved a
few rods to the north. Instead of journeying, the naturalist would desire weeks to examine the interesting scenery
of this section of country, and the more minute his examination the more would his curiosity be gratified.
This whole country appears to abound in magnesia, so
that epsom salts are found in almost every part; in some
places in large quantities in a crystalized state. Our horses and mules were disposed to make these a substitute for
common salt. Thermometer to-day stood at 90~.
While we were encamped at noon of the 24th, and our
horses and mules were turned out under guard, and we were
preparing our breakfast, or what should be dinner, we were
alarmed with the call, " secure your animals! secure your
animals!"  I looked around to see what was the cause of
the alarm, and saw, at about a mile and a half distance, a
considerable number of Indians coming on horseback at full
speed. We had not more than half secured our animals and
prepared for defence, when the Indians were close upon us;
whether friends or foes we could not tell, until they were
nearly within rifle shot, when they, according to custom, as
an expression of friendship, fired their guns into the air, and
then rushed into our camp, and exchanged salutations of
7





66


AN ALARM--THE OGALLALLAHS.


peace. They were Ogallallahs, headed by eight of their
chiefs. They were clad in their war habiliments, and made
somewhat of a terrific appearance. The chiefs dined with
us, and were very talkative among themselves; for, not
having any good interpreter, we could not join in conversation with them. Every thing, however, went on pleasantly,
and to mutual satisfaction. They told us their whole vil.
lage was only a few hours' travel ahead of us, going to the
Black Hills for the purpose of trading.
On the 25th, the heat was very oppressive in the middle
of the day, there not being as much wind as usual. Ther.
mometer 920. Towards evening, came to the main village
of the Ogallallahs, consisting of more than two thousand
persons. These villages are not stationary, but move from
place to place, as inclination or convenience may dictate.
Their lodges are comfortable, and easily transported. They
are composed of eight or ten poles about eighteen feet long.
When they encamp, these poles are set up in a circular
form, the small ends fastened together, making an apex, and
the large ends are spread out so as to enclose an area of
about twenty feet in diameter. The whole is covered with
their coarse skins, which are elk, or buffalo, taken when
they are not good for robes. A fire is made in the centre,
a hole being left in the top of the lodge for the smoke to
pass out. All that they have for household furniture, clothing, and skins for beds, is deposited around according to
their ideas of propriety and convenience. Generally not
more than one family occupies a lodge. These are the
finest looking Indians I have ever seen. The men are generally tall and well proportioned; the women are trim, and
less pendulous than what is common among Indian women,
and all were well dressed, and for heathen, cleanly. They





A SABBATH AMONG THEM.


67


came around us in multitudes, and manifested great curiosity
to see whatever we had. I did not know why, but my boots
were particularly examined; probably they had never seen
any before, as moccasons are worn, not only by Indians, but
also by traders and hunters.
Sabbath, 26th. The caravan moved on a little way to
the crossing place of the Platte, near Larama's fork in the
Black Hills, and encamped for the day. This gave us an
opportunity for reading and devotion. Some of the Ogallallahs came to my tent while I was reading the Bible, and
observed me attentively, as though enquiring the reason
why I was differently employed from others. I endeavored
to make them understand by the language of signs, that I
was reading the book of God, which teaches us how to wor.
ship him. After spending some time in teaching them how
to read, and how God is to be worshiped, I sung a hymn,
which greatly interested them. They took me by the hand,
and the expression of their countenance seemed to say, we
want to know what all this means. My spirit was pained
within me, and I anxiously desired to understand their lan.
guage, that I might tell them about Christ, the only Savior.
The enquiry arose forcibly in my mind, why will not some
of the many Christian young men of the east, exercise so
much self-denial, as to come and teach them the way of salvation? Would it be a cross to be engaged in such heavenly
work? In such a cross what Christian would not glory?
And if there should be any tribulations attendant on the
enterprise, would they not, like St. Paul, glory in tribulations?
At evening, we passed over the Platte, and went a mile
and a half up to the fort of the Black Hills, and encamped
near the fort in our usual form.





68


BLACK IILLS.


CHAPTER IV.
Black Hills-day of indulgence-buffalo dance-the desire of Indians
for instruction-met the chiefs in council-re-commenced our journey for rendezvous-anthracite coal-species of wormwood-Red
Bute-traces of grizzly bears-geology-Rock IndependenceRocky Mountains-perpetual snow-valley through the mountains
-" thunder spirits" gone-an alarm-waters of the Colorado.
TIHE Black Hills do not derive their name from any thing
peculiar in the color of the soil and rocks of which they
are composed, but are so called from their being covered
with shrubby cedars, which give them a dark appearance
when seen at a distance. The alluvial soil upon the rivers
and in the valleys is very good, but upon the higher lands
and hills, it is thin and rather barren, and in many parts
full of stones, which are worn smooth by the action of water, and are of various kinds and forms. One spur of the
Rocky Mountains is seen from this place, which is forty or
fifty miles distant, and is probably five thousand feet high.
At this place the caravan halted, and according to immemorial usage, the men were allowed a " day of indulgence,"
as it is called, in which they drink ardent spirits as much
as they please, and conduct as they choose. Not unfre.
quently the day terminates with a catastrophe of some kind,
and to.day one of the company shot another with the full
intention to kill him. The ball entered the back, and came
out at the side. The wounded man exclaimed, "I am a
dead man;" but after a pause, said, "No, I am not hurt."
The other immediately seized a rifle to finish the work, but





BUFFALO DANCE.


69


was prevented by the bystanders, who wrested it from him
and discharged it into the air.
July 28th. The day of indulgence being past, a quiet
day succeeded. The exhilaration was followed by consequent relaxation, and the tide of spirits which arose so high
yesterday, ebbed to-day proportionally low. The men were
seen lounging about in listless idleness, and could scarcely
be roused to the business of making repairs and arrange.
ments for the long journey yet before us.  The Indians
were active, and manifested a disposition to be sociable and
kind, and also to open a trade with us in various articles,
such as moccasons, belts, and dressed skins; and desired
in return, knives, awls, combs, vermilion, &c.
Although the nights were cool, yet the thermometer stood
in the middle of the day at 980, but the heat was relieved
by the usual prairie winds.
On the 29th, the Ogallallah Indians who accompanied us,
had a buffalo, and a dog dance, the real object of which I
could not satisfactorily ascertain. Whether it was from some
superstitious notion that their success in hunting depended
on these rites, or whether the custom originated in the gra.
titude of their hearts for past successes, or more probably
as an amusement, or neither, I cannot tell. I witnessed the
first mentioned ceremony, and was content to dispense with
the latter. In the buffalo dance, a large number of young
men, dressed with the skins of the neck and head of buffa.
los, with their horns on, moved around in a dancing march.
They shook their heads, imitated the low bellowing of the
buffalo, wheeled, and jumped. At the same time men and
women sung a song, accompanied with the beating of a
sort of drum. I cannot say I was much amused to see
how well they could imitate brute beasts, while ignorant of
7*





70


THE OGALLALLAHS.


God and salvation. The impressive enquiry was constantly on my mind, what will become of their immortal spirits?
Rational men imitating beasts, and old gray-headed men
marshaling the dance! and enlightened white men encouraging it by giving them intoxicating spirits, as a reward
for their good performance. I soon retired, and was pleased
to find that only a small number of the Indians took any
part in the dance.
An Indian whom I attempted to teach last Sabbath, came
to me again to-day, and manifested that ble wished me to
instruct him. I endeavored to communicate to his mind
some ideas of God, and sang the hymn, " Watchman, tell
us of the night."  He and those with him, shook hands
with me as a token of their satisfaction, and left me. He
however, soon returned, bringing others, that they too might
hear what he had heard with so much apparent pleasure,
and they again shook hands with me. This was several
times repeated. These Indians appear not only friendly to
white men, but kind in their intercourse with each other,
and in no instance did I witness any quarrels among them.
Their minds are uncommonly gifted and noble, and their
persons are finely formed, and many of them are truly " nature's grenadiers."  The women are graceful, and their
voices are soft and expressive. I was agreeably surprised
to see tall young chiefs, well dressed in their own mode,
walking arm in arm with their ladies. This is what I had
not expected to see among those whom we term "savages."
It is true that they are heathen, in all the guilt of sin and
destitute of the knowledge of God, and the hopes of the
gospel, but in politeness and decency, as well as in many
other respects, they are very unlike the frontier Indians,
who have been corrupted and degraded by their acquaintance with ardent spirits, and wicked white men.





COUNCIL WITH THE SIOUX.


71


On the 30th, met in council with the chiefs of this tribe,
to lay before them the object of our tour, and to know if
they would wish to have missionaries sent among them to
teach them to read anid write, and especially how to worship God. They expressed much satisfaction with the proposal, and said they would do all they could to make their
condition comfortable. There can be no doubt, that this
community of the Sioux would be a promising field for la.
borers. They are inquisitive, and their language is distinct
and sonorous.
On the 31st, thermometer stood at 81~.
August 1st. At half-past eight in the morning, we recommenced our journey, and our next point is across the
Rocky Mountains, where the general rendezvous will be held.
Our wagons were left at the tbfort of the Black Hills, and all
our goods were packed upon mules. Several of our company went out into various parts of this country to hunt
and trap, but as many mpre joined us for the mountains, so
that our number is not diminished. Mr. Fontenelle stopped
at the fort, and Mr. Fitz Patrick took his place in charge
of the caravan. We had received during our journey to
this place, many kind attentions from Mr. F. as well as the
privilege of traveling under his protection, for which we
offered him a remuneration, but he declined it, saying, that
ift any one was indebted, it was himself, for the medical
services Dr. Whitman had rendered to him and his men.
We shall gratefully remember their kindness.
Sabbath, 2nd. I enjoyed some opportunities for devotional
exercises, it felt the loss of the privileges of God's house.
We found on the 3d but very little grass for our horses
and mules, w.ing to three causes; the sterility of the soil,
the proximity of the snow.topped mountains, and the graz.





"72


ANTHRACITE COAL.


ing of numerous herds of buffalos and antelopes. To save
distance in following the bends of the river, we passed today over rough and somewhat dangerous precipices. I found
to-day, and also before we arrived at the Black Hills, some
specimens of anthracite coal. This was the first discovery
of coal in this region of country. If it should be found in
great quantities, it will supply the want of wood for fuel.
Here are appearances of iron ore, and also of volcanic erup.
tions. A range of mountains, a spur of which is seen from
Larama's fork in the Black Hills, runs parallel with the
river, ten or fifteen miles distant, and some of the peaks are
very high.
August 4th. The country was more level and fertile. I
discovered more anthracite coal, and appearances which
Sindicate that it may be found in large quantities; also, in
one place, yellow sand stone of remarkably fine texture.
It undoubtedly would answer an excellent purpose for polish.
ing metals. A wild wormwood   rows in great quantities
in this region, where the soil is gravelly and barren. Some
of it grows eight or ten feet high, and four or five inches in
diameter, and Is an obstruction to traveling. It is generally
called wild sage. Scarcely any animal will taste it unless
compelled by extreme hunger. The prairie hen, however,
crops the buds or leaves, which renders its flesh bitter and
unpalateable for food. I saw some granite to-day of a dark
gray color, like the granite in the Atlantic states. What I
had seen before in boulders was of the red cast, like that
which is found about Lake Superior.
On the 5th, we arose at the first breaking of day and
proceeded on our route, making forced marches through this
barren region. Encamped towards night at %place called
the Red Bate, which is a high bluff of land, of the color of


o





GRIZZLY BEARS.


73


red ochre, but composed of clay somewhat indurated. This
is a central place for Indians traveling east or west, north or
south. Here the north-west branch of the Platte, along
which we have been traveling, comes from a southern direction, the head of which is about one hundred and fifty
miles distant. From the Red Bute we pass over to the
Sweetwater, a branch of the Platte, which comes from the
west, and is remarkable for its purity. We saw to-day
tracks of grizzly bears, which were perfectly fresh, and
were indicative of their formidable size and strength. One
with a large cub passed out of some gooseberry and cur.
rant bushes near the river, as we proceeded around to an
open'spot of ground for an encamping place. Lieut. S. of
the dragoons, a man of undoubted veracity, told me he saw
several buffalos passing near some bushes, where a grizzly
bear lay concealed, and the bear with one stroke tore three
ribs from a buffalo and laid it dead. It has been said, if
you meet one of these bears, you must either kill him, or be
killed; but this is not true, unless you come upon them
suddenly, or wound them. If you let them pass off unmolested, they will, in most cases, withdraw, shiowing that the
fear of man is upon them as well as upon other beasts.
August 6th. The geology of these regions is becoming
more interesting, as we draw near the mountains. I saw
to-day, not only granite in situ, but also a quantity of the
most beautiful serpentine I ever beheld. It was semi-transparent and of a deep green hue, very much resembling specimens of emerald which I saw in the mineralogical cabinet
at New Haven. I regretted the. necessity which so long a
journey, yet before me, imposed of passing by opportunities
for making collections.
Passed Rock Independence, on the 7th. This is the first





74


GEOLOGY.


massive rock of that stupendous chain of mountains, which
divides North America, and forms, together with its barrens
on each side, a natural division. This rock takes its name
from the circumstance of a company of fur traders suspending their journey, and here observing, in due form, the anniversary of our national freedom. It is an immensely huge
rock of solid gneiss granite, entirely bare and covering several acres. Advancing a little distance, we came to a
stream of no inconsiderable size, which has its origin in the
mountains, and to which the name of Sweetwater has been
given on account of its purity. We followed up the course
of this river for several days. In one place it passes a
small branch of the mountains, through a narrow chasm
only thirty or forty feet wide, and more than three hundred
feet high. The caravan passed around the point of this
mountain, and to obtain a better prospect of this natural curiosity, I left them and rode to it. A deep-toned roar is
heard as it dashes its way through the rocky passage. The
sight is soon intercepted by its winding course, and the darkness caused by the narrowness and deepness of the avenue.
Passed to-day, several small lakes of crystalized epsom
salt, from which the water in the drouth of summer is
evaporated. I rode into one of them to examine the quality
and depth, but finding my horse sinking as in quicksand, I
was glad to make a safe retreat. Whatever may be beneath,
whether salt in a less solid state than on the surface, or
quicksand, yet large quantities of good quality might be
easily collected.
The mountains are indeed rocky mountains, They are
rocks heaped upon rocks, with no vegetation, excepting a
few cedars growing out of the crevices near their base.
Their tops are covered with perpetnal snow, which are seen





APPROACH TO THE MOUNTAINS.


75


on our left and before us. As we advanced, the atmosphere
was increasingly more chilling through the night and most
of the day, excepting the middle, which to-day was very
warm; the thermometer standing at 840.
Sabbath, 9th. I endeavored to supply the absence of the
privileges of the sanctuary and ordinances, as well as I
could by reading, and recalling to mind portions of the scrip.
tures, hymns, and the doctrines of our excellent, but neglected catechism. One needs to be on heathen ground to
realize the solitariness of absence from the social worship,
where
"The cheerful songs and solemn vows
Make their communion sweet."
On the 10th, cold winds were felt from the snow-topped
mountains to an uncomfortable degree. The passage
through these mountains is in a valley, so gradual in the
ascent and descent, that I should not have known that we
were passing them, had it not been that as we advanced the
atmosphere gradually became cooler, and at length we saw
the perpetual snows upon our right hand and upon our left,
elevated many thousand feet above us-in some places ten
thousand. The highest part of these mountains are found
by measurement, to be eighteen thousand feet above the level
of the sea. This valley was not discovered until some
years since. Mr. Hunt and his party, more than twenty
years ago, went near it but did not find it, though in search
of some favorable passage. It varies in width from three
to fifteen miles; and following its course, the distance
through the mountains is about eighty miles, or four days'
journey. Though there are some elevations and depressions
in this valley, yet comparatively speaking, it is level.
There would be no difficulty in the way of constructing a





76


THUNDER SPIRITS DEPARTED.


rail road from the Atlantic to the Pacific ocean; and prob.
ably the time may not be very far distant, when trips will
be made across the continent, as they have been made to
the Niagara falls, to see nature's wonders. In passing the
Black Hills and the Rocky Mountains we heard none of those
"successive reports resembling the discharge of several
pieces of artillery," mentioned by some authors as common
" in the most calm and serene weather, at all times of the
day or night:" nor did we witness " lightning and thunder,
pealing from clouds gathering round the summits of the hills"
or mountains. " The thunder spirits, who fabricate storms
and tempests," appear to have closed their labors, and the
Indian tribes no longer " hang offerings on the trees to pro.
pitiate the invisible lords of the mountains."
The geology presents some variety; for while the main
ridge of the mountains is gneiss granite, yet to-day parallel
ridges of red wacke have abounded. These ridges appear
to be volcanic, forced up in dykes, at different distances
from each other, running from east north-east to west south.
west. The strata are mostly vertical, but some are a little
dipped to the south.
We had an alarm, while we were encamped for noon,
and the men were called to arms. They all rushed forth
full of courage, rather stimulated than appalled by danger.
Only one Indian made his appearance upon the hill, at the
foot of which we were encamped. This was taken as an
indication that others were near, which was the fact; but
he and they retreated.
August 11th. The last night was very cold-we had a
heavy frost with ice. A little before sunrise, the thermometer stood at 24~. Our early morning ride was not very
comfortable fr myself, and less so for some of our men





BIG SANDY RIVER.


77


who were not furnished with over-coats. Our horses and
mules began to show that constant labor, without sufficient
food, was not favorable to strength, and some of them failed.
"To-day we came to the Big Sandy river, one of the upper
branches of the Colorado, which empties into the gulf of
California. Along its banks are some Norway and pitch
pine, and a very few small white pines, and clumps of com-.
mon poplar. In some of the low vales, there were beautiful
little fresh roses, which bloomed amidst the desolations
around. " How ornamental are the works of nature! She
seems to decorate them all, as if each spot was a garden, in
which God might perchance walk, as once in Eden."


s





78


THE RENDEZVOUS.


CHAPTER V.
Arrive at rendezvous-trappers and hunters-four Indian nationsFlatheads and Nez Perces, no reason why so called-surgical operations-an interview with the Flathead and Nez Perce chiefstheir anxiety for religious instruction-return of Doct. WhitmanShoshones and Utaws-mountain life.
After stopping for the night upon the New Fork, a branch
of Green river, we arose on the 12th, at the first breaking of
the day, and continued our forced marches. Although we
were emerging from the mountains, yet peaks covered with
perpetual snow were seen in almost every direction, and the
temperature of the air was uncomfortable. I found to-day
some beautiful calcedony, of which I took a specimen, and
also green stone, quartz, and trap in large quantities. In the
afternoon, came to the Green river, a branch of the Colora.
do, in latitude 420, where the caravan hold their rendezvous.
This is in a widely extended valley, which is pleasant, and
the soil sufficiently fertile for cultivation, if the climate was
not so cold. It is, like the country we have passed through,
an almost entire prairie, with some woods skirting the
streams of water.
The American Fur Company have between two and three
hundred men constantly in and about the mountains, engaged in trading, hunting, and trapping. These all assemble at rendezvous and bring in their furs, and take new supplies for the coming year, of clothing, ammunition, and
goods for trade with the Indians. But few of these ever





DOCT. WHITMAN.


79


return to their country and friends. Most of them are constantly in debt to the company, and are unwilling to return
without a fortune; and year after year passes away, while
they are hoping in vain for better success.
Here were assembled many Indians belonging to four
different nations; the Utaws, Shoshones, Nez Perces, and
Flatheads, who were waiting for the caravan to exchange
furs, horses, and dressed skins, for various articles of merchandise. I was disappointed to see nothing peculiar in
the Flathead Indians, to give them their name. Who gave
them this name, or for what reason, is not known. Some
suppose it was given them in derision for not flattening
their heads, as the Chenooks and some other nations do, near
the shores of the Pacific. It may be so, but how will those,
who indulge this imagination, account for the Nez Perces
being so called, since they do not pierce their noses? This
name could not be given them in derision, because those
near the Pacific, who flatten their heads, also pierce their
noses. That those names are given by white men, is evi.
dent, since they do not call each other by the names which
signify either flat head or pierced nose.
While we continued in this place, Doct. Whitman was
called to perform some very important surgical operations.
He extracted an iron arrow, three inches long, from the
back of Capt. Bridger, which was received in a skirmisir
three years before, with the Blackfeet Indians. It was a
difficult operation, because the arrow was hooked at the point
by striking a large bone, and a cartilaginous substance had
grown around it. The doctor pursued the operation with
great self-possession and perseverance; and his patient manifested equal firmness. The Indians looked on meanwhile,
with countenances indicating wonder, and in their own pe.





80         AN INTERVIEW WITH THE CHIEFS.
culiar manner expressed great astonishment. The Doct.
also extracted another arrow from the shoulder of one of the
hunters, which had been there two years and a half. His
reputation becoming favourably established, calls for medical and surgical aid were almost incessant.
After spending a few days in collecting and digesting information in regard to this country and the condition of
the people, we had an interesting interview with the chiefs
of the Nez Perces and Flatheads, and laid before them the
object of our appointment, and explained to them the benevolent desires of Christians concerning them. We then
enquired whether they wished to have teachers come among
them and instruct them in the knowledge of God, his worship, and the way to be saved; and what they would do to
aid them in their labors. The oldest chief of the Flatheads
arose, and said, " he was old, and did not expect to know
much more; he was deaf, and could not hear, but his heart
was made glad, very glad, to see what he had never seen before, a man near to God," (meaning a minister of the gospel.)
Next arose Insala, the most influential chief among the
Flathead nation, and said, " he had heard, a man near to
God was coming to visit them, and he, with some of his
people, together with some white men, went out three days'
journey to meet him, but missed us. A war party of Crow
Indians came upon them, and took away some of their
S    horses, and one from him which he greatly loved, but now
he forgets all, his heart is made so glad to see a man near
to God." There was a short battle, but no lives were lost.
The first chief of the Nez Perces, Tai-quin-su.watish,
arose, and said, "he had heard from white men a little
about God, which had only gone into his ears; he wished
to know enough to have it go down into his heart, to influ.





DR. WHITMAN'S PROPOSAL.


81   v


ence his life, and to teach his people." Others spoke to the
same import, and they all made as many promises as we
could desire.
The Nez Perces and Flathead Indians present a promi.
sing field for missionary labor, which is white for the har.
vest, and the indications of divine providence in regard to
it are plain, by their anxiety to obtain Christian knowledge.
Taking the various circumstances under deliberate and
prayerful consideration, in regard to the Indihns, we came
to the conclusion, that, though many other important stations might be found, this would be one. So desirable did
this object appear, that Dr. Whitman proposed to return
with the caravan, and obtain associates to come out with
him the next year, with the then returning caravan, and establish a mission among these people, and by so doing, save
at least a year, in bringing the gospel among them. In
view of the importance of the object, I readily consented to
the proposal, and to go alone with the Indians the remainder of my exploring tour. Dr. Whitman, on further consideration, felt some misgivings about leaving me, lest, if
any calamity should befall me, he should be blamed by the
Christian public. It was my desire that no disquietude
should be felt for me, for we could not go safely together
without divine protection, and with it, I was secure in any
situation. This confidence inspired me with all the courage I needed, and composed my mind in regard to coming
dangers, as it had sustained me under those that were past.
Met with the chiefs again by appointment, and I stated
to them the contemplated return of Doct. Whitman. They
were much pleased, and promised to assist me, and to send
a convoy with me from their country to Fort Walla Walla,
on the Columbia river. They selected one of their princi.
8*





82


A BLOODY COMBAT.


pal young men for my particular assistant, as long as I
should have need of him, who was called Kentuc; and I
engaged a voyageur, who understood English, and also Nez
Perce sufficiently well to interpret common business, and
some of the plain truths of our holy religion, to go with me
while I should continue with these tribes.
We did not call together the chiefs of the Shoshones and
Utaws, to propose the subject of missions among them. lest
we should excite expectations which would not soon be fulfilled. We were more cautious upon this subject, because it
is difficult to make an Indian understand the difference between a proposal and a promise. The Shoshops are a very
numerous nation, and appear friendly. They are probably
the most destitute of the necessaries of life of any Indians
west of the mountains. Their country lies south-west of
the south-east branch of the Columbia, and is said to be the
most barren of any part of the country in these western
regions. They are often called Snakes and Root Diggers,
from being driven to these resorts to sustain life; and parts
of the year they suffer greatly from hunger and cold. They
are more squalid than any Indians I have seen; but their
poverty does not lessen their need of salvation through
Christ. The Utaws are decent in their appearance, and
their country, which is toward Santa Fe, is said to be tole.
rably good.
A few days after our arrival at the place of rendezvous,
and when all the mountain men had assembled, another day
of indulgence was granted to them, in which all restraint
was laid aside. These days are the climax of the hunter's
happiness. I will relate an occurrence which took place
near evening, as a specimen of mountain life. A hunter,
who goes technically by the name of the great bully of the





MOUNTAIN LIFE.


83


mountains, mounted his horse with a loaded rifle, and chal.
lenged any Frenchman, American, Spaniard, or Dutchman,
to fight him in single combat. Kit Carson, an American,
told him if he wished to die, he would accept the challenge.
Shunar defied him-C. mounted his horse, and with a load.
ed pistol, rushed into close contact, and both almost at the
same instant fired. C's ball entered S's hand, came out
at the wrist, and passed through the arm above the elbow.
S's ball passed over the head of C.; and while he went for
another pistol, Shunar begged that his life might be spared.
Such scenes, sometimes from passion, and sometimes for
amusement, take the pastime of their wild and wandering
life. They appear to have sought for a place where, as
they would say, human nature is not oppressed by the tyranny of religion, and pleasure is not awed by the frown of
virtue. The fruits are visible in all the varied forms to
which human nature, without the restraints of civil govern.
ment, and cultivated and polished society, may be supposed
to yield. In the absence of all those motives, which they
would feel in moral and religious society, refinement, pride,
a sense of the worth of character, and even conscience,
give place to unrestrained dissoluteness. Their toils and
privations are so great, that they more readily compensate
themselves by plunging into such excesses, as in their mis.
taken judgment of things, seem most adapted to give them
pleasure. They disdain the common-place phrases of pro.
fanity which prevail among the impious vulgar in civilized
countries, and have many set phrases, which they appear to
have manufactured among themselves, and which, in their
imprecations, they bring into almost every sentence and on
all occasions. By varying the tones of their voices, they
make them expressive of joy, hope, grief, and anger. In





84


PREPARATIONS FOR A JOURNEY.


their broils among themselves, which do not happen every
day, they would not be ungenerous. They would see "fair
play," and would "spare the last eye;" and would not tolerate murder, unless drunkenness or great provocation could
be pleaded in extenuation.
Their demoralizing influence with the Indians has been
lamentable, and they have imposed upon them, in all the
ways that sinful propensities dictate. It is said they have
sold them packs of cards at high prices, calling them the
Bible; and have told them, if they should refuse to give
white men wives, God would be angry with them and punish
them eternally: and on almost any occasion when their
wishes have been resisted, they have threatened them with
the wrath of God. If these things are true in many instances, yet from personal observation, I should believe, their
more common mode of accomplishing their wishes has been
by flattery and presents. The most of them squander away
their wages in ornaments for their women and children.
The Indians, with whom I was to travel, having appoint.
ed the 21st to commence the journey for their country, a
few days were occupied in writing to my family, the Ame.
rican Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, and
other friends; and also in making preparations for my jour.
ney to Walla Walla.  While we continued in this place,
though in the middle of the day it was warm, yet the nights
were frosty, and ice frequently formed.





DEPARTURE OF DOCT. WHITMAN.


85


CHAPTER VI.
Part with my associate-arrive at head waters of the Columbia-kindness of the Indians-narrow defilc-geology-Jackson's Hole-wild
flax-trappers go out on a hunt-mountain prospect-Trois Tetons
-danger from affrighted buffalo-Pierre's Hole-Volcanic chasmchildren on horseback-interesting worship with the Indians-burial
of a child-scarcity of food-a timely supply-Salmon river-ex.
pected battle-geological observations-scene of mourning.
AUGUST 21st, commenced our journey in company with
Capt. Bridger, who goes with about fifty men, six or eight
days' journey on our route. Instead of going down on the
south-west side of Lewis' river, we concluded to take our
course northerly for the Trois Tetons, which are three very
high mountains, covered with perpetual snow, separated
from the main chain of the Rocky Mountains, and are seen
at a very great distance; and from thence to Salmon river.
Went only about three miles from the place of rendezvous,
and encamped.
On the 22d, I parted with Doct. Whitman, who returned
with the caravan to the United States. My anxious desire
was, that the Lord would go with him and make his way
prosperous, and make him steadfast to the object of his return, until it should be accomplished; and that, with next
year's caravan, he might come with associates into this
promising field, and they together reap a plentiful harvest. To.day we traveled twenty miles, through a somewhat barren country, and down several steep descents, and
arrived at what is called Jackson's Hole, and encamped up.





86


PUBLIC WORSHIP.


on a small stream of water, one of the upper branches of
the Columbia river. It was interesting to find myself, for
the first time, upon the waters of this noble river. The Indians were very attentive to all my wants-took the entire
care of my packed animals, cooking, &c. They preserve
particular order in their movements. The first chief leads
the way, the next chiefs follow, then the common men, and
after these the women and children. The place assigned
me was with the first chief.
Found some buffalo to.day, of which our men killed a
small number. These were a timely supply, as our provi.
sions were becoming scarce. The principal chief of the
Flatheads kindly furnished me with a horse to relieve mine.
Sabbath, 23d. Had an opportunity for rest and devotional exercises. In the afternoon we had public worship
with those of the company who understood English. The
men conducted with great propriety, and listened with
attention. I did not feel any disposition to upbraid them
for their sins, but endeavored affectionately to show them,
that they are unfit for heaven, and that they could not be
happy in the employments of that holy place, unless they
should first experience a great moral change of heart by
the grace of God, since the only source of happiness in
heaven consists in serving and glorifying God forever and
ever. The place of our encampment was such as would
naturally fill the mind with solemnity-just above a very
deep and narrow defile which we had to pass, called by the
hunters Kenyan. So high were the mountains, that some
of them were tipped with perpetual snow, and so narrow the
passage, that twilight shades obscured the view. The dis.
tance through must occupy more than half a day's journey.
Arose very early on the 24th, and commenced our way





A DANGEROUS PASS-GEOLOGY.


87


through the narrow defile, frequently crossing and re-cross.
ing a large stream of water which flows into the Snake
river. The scenery was wild and in many parts sublimemountains of rock, almost perpendicular, shooting their
heads up into the regions of perpetual snow, and in one
place projecting over our path, if a zigzag trail can be call.
ed a path. Often we had to pass over the sides of moun.
tains, which inclined at an angle of 450 toward the stream
of water below, and down which packed mules have fallen,
and were dashed upon the rocks. I endeavored to guide my
Indian horse so cautiously that he became unmanageable,
being resolved to have his own method of choosing the way.
I was under the necessity of dismounting and making the
best of my way. But on farther acquaintance with Indian
horses, I learned that their dashing mode of going ahea.
even in dangerous places, was preferable to the most cautious management of the American.
For some miles there was graywacke in ridges or dykes,
at equal distances of six or eight rods apart, and from six
to ten feet wide, rising a little above the surface of the earth,
running from south-east to the north-west; laying in strata
dipping to the west at an angle of 60~. At some distance I
observed a mountain of red earth of similar character, ex.
cepting that the strata dipped to the east at an angle of 40~.
In one place where the strata of rocks and earth were in
waves nearly horizontal, a section a few rods wide, of a
wedge form, had its waving strata in a perpendicular position, as though the mountain had been rent asunder, and the
chasm filled with the perpendicular wedge. A great diversity of the strata of rocks and earth prevailed in every part.
Towards the last of the way through this narrow defile, we
came to what appeared to be magnesian limestone, stratified,





10C


88           KINDNESS OF THE NATIVES.
of a brown color, and very hard. As we passed on we saw
dark brown gypsum, like that found in the western part of
the state of New York. Here for some distance I was much
annoyed with the strong scent of sulphureted hydrogen, and
soon saw at the foot of the mountain under the bed of gypsum a large sulphur spring, which sent up as much as thirty gallons of water per minute. Around this spring were
large quantities of incrusted sulphur, and so strongly is the
water saturated, that it colors the water of the river, on the
side next to the spring, a greenish color, for more than a
mile below.
We passed more forest to-day, than all before since we
left Rock Independence; among which is Norway pine,
balsam fir, double spruce, and common poplar-some low
dar and mulberry shrubs, and various species of shrubbery
which are not found in the United States. The Indians
were very kind, and seemed to vie with each other to see
which could do the most for my comfort, so that they more
than anticipated my wants. Two little girls brought me
a quart of strawberries, a rare dish for this season of the
year. And an Indian brought me some service berries,
which are large, purple and oblong, of a pleasantly sweet
taste, similar to whortleberries. We encamped upon a
fertile plain, surrounded by mountains, where three years before three men were killed by a small war party of Blackfeet
Indians. There were seven of the white men, and when
they saw the Blackfeet, they all fled in different directions,
and by so doing emboldened the Indians to the pursuit.
Had they stood firm and combined, it is probable they would
have escaped unhurt.
We traveled four hours on the 25th, to another branch of
Lewis' or Snake river, and encamped in a large pleasant val.





WILD FLAX-A HUNTING PARTY.


89


ley, commonly called Jackson's large hole. It is fertile and
well watered with a branch of Lewis' river coming from the
south-east, and another of some magnitude, coming from
the east north-east, which is the outlet of Jackson's lake,
a very considerable body of water laying back of the Trois
Tetons. There are also many very large springs of water
of uncommon clearness, which issue from the base of the
surrounding mountains. This vale is well supplied with
grass of excellent quality, which was very grateful to our
horses, and mules, and the avidity with which they helped
themselves seemed to say, they would be remunerated for
past deprivations.
Flax is a spontaneous production of this country. In
every thing, except that it is perennial, it resembles the flax
which is cultivated in the United States-the stalk, the
bowl, the seed, the blue flower, closed in the day time and
open in the evening and morning. The Indians use it for
making fishing nets. Fields of this flax might be managed
by the husbandman in the same manner as meadows for hay.
It would need to be mowed like grass; for the roots are too
large and run too deep into the earth, to be pulled as ours is,
and an advantage, which this would have, is, that there
would be a saving of ploughing and sowing. Is it not worthy of the experiment of our agricultural societies?
Kentuc, my Indian, brought me to-day some very good
currants, which were very grateful in this land. There are
several species, yellow, pale red, and black. The yellow and
pale red were the best flavored.
We continued in this encampment three days, to give
our animals an opportunity to recruit, and for Captain
Bridger to fit and send out several of his men into the mountains to hunt and trap. When I reflected upon the prob9





90


A MOUNTAIN PROSPECT.


ability, that most of them would never return to their friends,
but would find their graves in the mountains, my heart was
pained for them, and especially at their thoughtlessness
about the great things of the eternal world. I gave each
of them a few tracts, for which they appeared grateful, and
said they would be company for them in their lonely hours;
and as they rode away, I could only lift up my heart for
their safety and salvation.
During our continuance here, I took an Indian for an assistant, and ascended one of the highest mountains in the
vicinity, to view the scenery around. The prospect was as
extensive as the eye could reach, diversified with mountains,
hills, plains and valleys. Most of the mountains were covered with woods; but the plains and valleys were covered
with grass, presenting less of bright green, however, than
might be expected where the summer is favored with dews
and rains. But the whole was a scene of perfect enchantment. About sixty miles to the east, the Rocky mountains
lay stretched through the whole extent of vision, spread out
like luminous clouds in the horizon; their summits so elevated, that no soil ever rises to sully the pure whiteness of
their everlasting snows, and tinged and mellowed with a
golden hue by the rays of the sun. Not very far to the
north, the Trois Tetons, a cluster of high pointed mountains,
covered with perpetual snow, and rising ten thousand feet
almost perpendicularly, were distinctly visible, with two
others of the same form but of less magnitude. Only three
of the cluster are so high as to be seen at a very great
distance.
Here I spent much time in looking over the widely extended and varied scenery, sometimes filled with emotions of the
sublime, in beholding the towering mountains; sometimes





A MOUNTAIN PROSPECT.


91


with pleasure in tracing the windings of the streams in the
vale below; and these sensations frequently gave place to
astonishment, in viewing the courses in which the rivers
flow on their way unobstructed by mountain barriers.
After some hours occupied in this excursion, I descended to
the encampment much gratified with what I had seen of the
works of God. The soil in this valley and upon the hills,
is black and rich, and the time will come, when the solitude
which now prevails will be lost in the lowing of herds and
bleating of flocks, and the plough will cleave the clods of
these hills and vales; and from many altars will ascend the
incense of prayer and praise. After I returned, Tai.quin-suwa-tish took me to his company of horses and gave me one
in token of his friendship, and probably not without the mo.
tive to enlist me in their favor. The horse was finely made,
and of the beautiful color of intermixed cream and white.
On the 28th, we pursued our journey and passed over a
mountain so high, that banks of snow were but a short distance from our trail. When we had ascended two-thirds of
the way, a number of buffalo, which were pursued by our
Indians, came rushing down the side of the mountain through
the midst of our company. One ran over a horse, on the
back of which was a child, and threw the child far down
the descent, but it providentially was not materially injured.
Another ran over a packed horse, and wounded it deeply in
the shoulder. The buffalo are naturally timid, yet when
they have laid their course, and by being affrighted are run.
ning at full speed, it is seldom they change their direction,
whatever obstacles may be in their way.
I noticed nothing particularly new in geology, excepting
upon the highest parts of the mountains, granite of very
light color. Our descent was through woods more dense





92


PIERRE'S HOLE.


than those on the other side, and the most so of any since
we left the waters of the Missouri. Many parts of the descent were of almost impassable steepness; and part of the
way down a rough deep ravine, a stream of water commences and increases from springs and rivulets to considerable
magnitude, and winds its way through the valley of Pierre's
Hole; in the upper part of which we made our encampment
among willows in the prairie vale.
On the 29th, removed our encampment, and traveled five
hours along this valley to the place, where two years before,
two fur companies held their rendezvous. Pierre's Hole is
an extensive level country, of rich soil, and well watered
with branches of Lewis' river, and is less frosty than any
part we have gone through this side the rocky chain of
mountains. The valley is well covered with grass, but like
most other places is deficient in woodland, having only a
scanty supply of cotton-wood and willows scattered along
the streams. It extends around to the north-west, as far as
the eye can reach. We expected to have found buffalo
here, but saw none. As parties of Blackfeet warriors often
range this way, it was probable they had lately been here
and frightened them away. Between this and our last encampment, I was shown the place where the men of the fur
companies, at the time of their rendezvous two years before,
had a battle with the Blackfeet Indians. Of the Blackfeet
party there were about sixty men, and more than the same
number of women and children; of the white men in the
valley, there were some few hundred who could be called
into action. From the information given me, it appeared
that these Indians were on their way through this valley,
and unexpectedly met about forty hunters and trappers go.
ing out from their rendezvous to the south.west on their fall





DESCRIPTION OF A BATTLE.


93


and winter hunt. The Indians manifested an unwillingness
to fight, and presented them tokens of peace; but they were
not reciprocated. Those who came forward to stipulate
terms of peace were fired upon and killed. When the Indians saw their danger, they fled to the cotton-wood trees
and willows which were scattered along the stream of water,
and, taking the advantage of some fallen trees, constructed
as good defence as time and circumstances would permit.
They were poorly provided with guns and still more poorly
with ammunition. The trappers keeping out of reach of
their arrows, and being well armed with the best rifles,
made the contest unequal, and still more unequal, when, by
an express sent to rendezvous, they were reinforced by veterans in mountain life. The hunters, by keeping at a safe
distance, in the course of a few hours killed several of the
Indians, and almost all their horses, which, in their situa.
tion, could not be protected, while they themselves suffered
but small loss. Those killed, on both sides, have been differently stated, but, considering the numbers engaged, and
the length of time the skirmishing continued, it could not
have been a bloody battt; and not much to the honor of ci.
vilized Americans. The excuse made for forcing the Blackfeet into battle is, that if they had come upon a small party
of trappers, they would have butchered them and seized
upon the plunder. If heathen Blackfcct would have done
so, is this an apology for civilized white men to render evil
for evil? What a noble opportunity was here afforded for
our American citizens to have set an example of humanity.
When the night drew near, the hunters retired to their
encampment at the place of rendezvous, and the Indians
9*


9





94


THE TEN COMMANDMENTS.


made their escape.    Thus the famous battle of Pierre's
Hole began and ended.*
I attended worship this evening with the chiefs, and as
many as could assemble in one of their lodges, and explained to them the ten commandments-and after showing them
their sins by their transgression of God's holy law, pointed
them to the Savior, and endeavored to make them understand the way of salvation.     My method of instructing
them was to give to the first chief the first commandment,
by repeating it, until he could repeat it; and the second
commandment to another chief in the same way, and so on
through the ten, with directions for them to retain what was
given to each, and to teach their people; and the same
manner was pursued with other parts of divine truth; informing them, that at our next assembling, I shall examine
* Since my return, I have seen an account of this battle, written by
a graphic hand, in all the fascinating style of romance, representing
the Indians as having entrenched themselves in a swamp, so densely
wooded as to be almost impenetrable; and there they kept the trappers at bay, until they were reinforced fpom rendezvous. When the
Blackfeet saw the whole valley alive wih horJmen rushing to the
field of action, they withdrew into the dark tangled wood. When the
leaders of the several hunting parties came into the field, they urged
their men to enter the swamp, but they hung back in awe of the dismal horrors of the place, regarding it impenetrable and full of danger.
But the leaders would not be turned from their purpose-made their
wills-appointed their executors-grasped their rifles, and urged their
way through the woods. A brisk fire was opened, and the Blackfeect
were completely overmatched, but would not leave their fort, nor offer
to surrender. The numerous veteran mountaineers, well equipped, did
not storm the breastwork, even when the Blackfeet had spent their
powder and balls, but only kept up the bloody battle by occasional firing
during the day. The Blackfeet in the night effected their retreat;
and the brave mountaineers assembled their forces in the morning,
and entered the fort without opposition.
With those who have seen the field of battle, the glowing description, drawn out in long detail, loses its interest; for although I saw it,
yet I did not see the dense woods, nor a swamp of any magnitude any
where near.


t





VOLCANIC CHASM.


95


them to see if they rightly understood, and retained what I
committed to each. And on examination, in no case did I
find more than one material mistake. I also found that
they took much pains in communicating instruction one to
another.
In this place I parted with Captain Bridger and his party,
who went north-west into the mountains to their hunting
ground, which the Blackfeet claim, and for which they will
contend. The first chief of the Flatheads and his family,
with a few others of his people, went with Captain Bridger,
that they might continue within the range of buffalo
through the coming winter.
The Nez Perces, and with them the Flatheads, with whom
I go, take a north-west direction for Salmon river, beyond
which is their country. Our encampment for the sabbath
was well chosen for safety against any war parties of Black.
feet Indians, near a small stream of water which runs
through a volcanic chasm, one hundred feet deep, and in
most places perpendicular. We were on the west side of
the chasm, with a narrow strip of wood around on every
other side. Here was a passage made for the water by fire.
The courses, which are formed for the rivers, as forcibly
prove the creating and directing hand of God, as the design
manifested in the organic part of creation; and I would as
unwillingly account for the positions of mountains, and val.
leys, and the channels of rivers, by natural phenomena,
without including the power and design of God, as for the
formation of plants and animals. It is true, there is more
minute and curious organization in the one than in the
other, but in both the wisdom and power of God are mani.
fest.
This day of rest, to a weary traveler, is peculiarly re




96


CHILDREN ON HORSEBACK.


freshing, and it seemed as though the sabbath was designed
especially for persons in my circumstances. It was, to my
mind, a type of the final rest of the spirit when it shall return to God, after the toils of its present brief existence are
done. I read with new satisfaction, the epistle to the Hebrews, on the priesthood of Christ, and committed again
myself and family, the church and world of mankind, to
God. It was pleasant to reflect on the promises, that the
kingdoms of this world shall become the kingdoms of the
Lord and of his Christ, and he shall reign forever; and the
time will come, when all shall know the Lord, and God shall
be merciful to their unrighteousness, and their sins and ini.
quities he will remember no more.
Monday, 31st.   While the Indians were packing and
preparing to leave this encampment, I went and examined
the volcanic chasm. It is of great length, at least many
miles, and narrow, considering its depth; formed with ba.
saltic columns in many places, and in others of amygdaloid. I found many large and interesting specimens of pure
obsidian, or volcanic glass-much lava and vitrified stones.
I took some small specimens. In the vicinity around, there
was clink stone in great abundance, which, when struck by
the horses hoofs, gave, very audibly, a metallic sound. The
soil is black, and appears to be formed of decomposed lava,
and is covered with very nutritious grass.
The Indians are very kind to each other, and if one meets
with any disaster, the others will wait and assist him.
Their horses often turn their packs, and run, plunge and
kick, until they free themselves from their burdens. Yesterday a horse turned his saddle under him upon which a
child was fastened, and started to run, but those near hovered at once around with their horses so as to enclose the one


Q





CHILDREN ON HORSEBACK.


97


to which the child was attached, and it was extricated with.
out hurt. When I saw the condition of the child, I had no
expectation that it could be saved alive.  This was the
second case of the same kind which occurred since I had
been traveling with these Indians. They are so well supplied with horses that every man, woman, and child, are
mounted on horseback, and all they have is packed upon
horses. Small children, not more than three years old, are
mounted alone, and generally upon colts. They are lashed
upon the saddle to keep them from falling, and especially
when they go asleep, which they often do when they become fatigued. Then they recline upon the horses shoul.
ders; and when they awake, lay hold of their whip, which
is fastened to the wrist of their right hand, and apply it
smartly to their horses; and it is astonishing to see how
these little creatures will guide and run them. Children
which are still younger, are put into an encasement made
with a board at the back and a wicker work around the
other parts, covered with cloth inside and without, or, more
generally, with dressed skins; and they are carried upon
the mothers' back, or suspended from a high knob upon the
fore part of their saddles.
As we recede from the mountains the climate becomes
warmer. We encamped upon another tributary of the Columbia. Tai.quin-su-wa-tish, the principal chief of the Nez
Perces, came to me and requested me to meet in his lodge a
number of his people who had separated, husbands from
their wives, and wives from their husbands, and explain to
them what God had said upon the subject. I readily con.
sented, and was the more pleased with the proposal as it
was without any suggestion from myself, but the result of
his own reflections after what I had before said in explain.





98


A RECONCILIATION.


ing the ten commandments. When they were assembled,
I read to them about the relative duties of husbands and
wives, and of parents and children. I commented upon the
subject and told them, that when they marry it must be for
life. All but two agreed to go back to their former husbands
and wives. It was interesting to see that they are ready
to practice instructions as soon as received. The chief
said they desired me to instruct them in all that God has
said; for they wish to do right. After I left them, they
stayed a long time in the lodge of the chief, which was
near my tent, and I heard them conversing on the subject
until I went to sleep, which was at a late hour. They all
shook hands with me when I left them and said my words
were "tois" (good.)
Tuesday, September 1st. We pursued our journey to-day
only about four hours. Crossed Henry's Fork, another
branch of Lewis' river, which is itself a river of considerable magnitude, about twenty rods wide in this place, and
fordable only when the water is low. After proceeding a
few miles down on the north side, we encamped at an early
hour in a spot upon the bank of the river, surrounded by
cotton-wood with a dense growth of shrubbery. Our fears
of meeting a war party of Blackfeet Indians, were increased
by seeing three Indians pass who were not known. Some
of the chiefs went through our encampment and harangued
the people, the object of which was to be prepared for de.
fending themselves against an attack, should any enemies
appear. We were mercifully preserved in safety through
the night, and arose on the morning of the second and went
on our way, and performed a journey of twenty-two miles
over a barren section of country. The surface is composed
of quartose sand, intermixed with disintegrated amygdaloid,





ANCIENT VOLCANOES.


99


basalt, and obsidian. In some places were large excavations, plainly indicative of ancient volcanoes, which had
spread out their melted contents in a level plain of hard lava,
or amygdaloid, without forming cones. In other places
there were conical rocks of different magnitudes at the base
and of different height-none perhaps over the diameter of
three rods at the base and sixty feet high. They were universally divided in the centre, as though an explosion had
taken place after they were hardened. At some distance
from us were several very interesting hills, rising in high
cones some hundred feet-two of them, I should judge to be
not far from three thousand feet. I did not have an opportunity of examining their geological formation.
We arrived at evening at a small branch of the Salmon
river, which was the first water we had found through the
day, and upon which was good grass for our horses. Here
Kentuc, my Indian, caught me some excellent trout, which
was a very grateful change of food.
Our progress during the next day was through a barren
tract, as yesterday, where there is no vegetation except
wormwood which grows very large. A sluggish stream
bordered with willows, afforded us some conveniences for
stopping at night. Thermometer, at noon, 65~.
We traveled on the fourth, five hours, and encamped upon
Sa stream of water, in Cot6's defile, which comes out of the
mountains and is lost in the barren plains below. Cote's
defile passes through a range of high mountains, some of
the tops of which are covered with snow. Most of the day
was uncomfortably cold with some snow-squalls. Thermometer, at noon, 540.
To-day I received a letter from Fort Hall, containing an
invitation from Mr. A. Baker to spend the winter with him;





100


INVITATION TO FORT HALL.


but the object for which I have passed the Rocky Mountains
required me to pursue my tour, and if possible to reach the
Pacific Ocean, and to return to Fort Vancouver before
winter. We providentially learned that a large band of
Nez Perces was a few miles below us, and would come to
us to-morrow. We had become almost destitute of provisions, but to-day killed a few buffalo.
The morning of the 5th was very cold. We continued
in our encampment, to give the band of Nez Perces an opportunity to join us, and about the middle of the day they
came; the principal chief marching in front with his aid,
carrying an American flag by his side. They all sung a
march, while a few beat a sort of drum. As they drew
near they displayed columns, and made quite an imposing
appearance. The women and children followed in the rear.
Tai-quin.su-wa-tish, and other chiefs, arranged their people
in the same order and went out to meet them; and when
we had approached within ten rods of each other, all halted,
and a salute was fired, in which I had to take the lead.They then dismounted, and both bands formed into single file,
and meeting, shook hands with me and each other in token
of love, and to express their joy to see one come among them
to teach them respecting God and salvation. The principal chief of the other band who is called Charlie, and
who is the first chief of the Nez Perce nation, is a goodlooking man, his countenance rather stern, intelligent, and
expressive of much decision of character. I never saw joy
expressed in a more dignified manner, than when he took
me firmly by the hand and welcomed me.
In the afternoon I took Kentuc and rode five miles to see
a prominence of interesting appearance, which I found to
be a mass of volcanic rocks. It is detached from the main





CHARLIE, A NEZ PERCE CHIEF.


101


mountain, stands on a plain upon the east side of Cot6's
defile, is about a mile in circumference at the base. and
rises up abruptly, having most of the west side perpendicular. It is more than two hundred feet high, has a level
horizontal summit of eighty rods long, north and south, and
twenty rods wide. It furnishes plain evidence of having
been fused and thrown up by subterranean fires.
In the evening I met with the chiefs, and as many as
could assemble in the lodge, and explained to those whom I
had not seen before, the object of my mission. Charlie, the
first chief, arose and spoke with much good sense for some
time-mentioned his ignorance, his desire to know more
about God, and his gladness of heart to see one who can
teach him; and said, "I have been like a little child, uneasy,
feeling about in the dark after something, but not knowing
what; but now I hope to learn something which will be
substantial, and which will help me to teach my people to do
right." I told them to.morrow would be the sabbath; and
explained to them the nature of the institution, and their
obligation to remember and keep it holy. They expressed
their desire to obey, and said they would not remove camp,
but attend to the worship of God. Providentially there
came to us this afternoon a good interpreter from Fort Hall,
so that to-morrow I can preach to the people.
Sabbath, 6th. Early this morning one of the oldest
chiefs went about among the people, and with a loud voice
explained to them the instructions given last evening; told
them it was the sabbath, and they must prepare for public
worship. About eight in the morning, some of the chiefs
came to me and asked where they should assemble. I asked
them if they could not be accommodated in the willows, which
skirted the stream of water on which we were encamped.
10





102


A SANCTUARY IN THE WILDERNESS.


They thought not. I then enquired if they could not take
the poles of some of their lodges and construct a shade; and
without any other directions they went and made prepara.
tion, and about eleven o'clock came and said they were ready
for worship. I found them all assembled, men, women and
children, between four and five hundred, in what I would
call a sanctuary of God, constructed with their lodges,
nearly one hundred feet long and about twenty feet wide;
and all were arranged in rows, through the length of the
building upon their knees, with a narrow space in the mid.
dle, lengthwise, resembling an aisle. The whole area within
was carpeted with their dressed skins, and they were all in
their best attire. The chiefs were arranged in a semicircle
at the end which I was to occupy. I could not have believed
they had the means, or could have known how, to have erected so convenient, and so decent a place for worship, and espe.
cially as it was the first time they had had public worship.
The whole sight affected me, and filled me with admiration;
and I felt as though it was the house of God and the gate of
heaven.
They all continued in a kneeling position during singing
and prayer, and when I closed prayer with Amen, they all
said what was equivalent in their language, to Amen. And
when I commenced sermon, they seated themselves back
upon their heels. I stated to them the original condition of
man when first created, his fall, and the ruined and sinful con.
dition of all mankind; the law of God, and that all are
transgressors of this law and as such are exposed to the wrath
of God, both in this life and the life to come; and then told
them of the mercy of God in giving his Son to die for us,
and of the love of the Savior, and though he desires our salvation, yet he will not save us unless we hate sin and put our





AN INTERESTING AUDIENCE.


103


trust in him, and love and obey him with all our heart. I
also endeavored to show them the necessity of renovation of
heart by the power and grace of the Holy Spirit. Told them
they must pray to God for the forgiveness of their sins and
for salvation. They gave the utmost attention, and entire
stillness prevailed, excepting, when some truth arrested their
mind forcibly, a little humming sound was made through the
whole assembly, occupying two or three seconds.
I never spoke to a more interesting assembly, and I would
not have changed my audience for any other upon earth;
and I felt that it was worth a journey across the Rocky
Mountains, to enjoy this one opportunity with these heathen
who are so anxious to obtain a knowledge of God. I hope,
that in the last day it will be found, that good was done in
the name of Jesus. If Christians could have witnessed this
day's service, it would have enlisted their sympathies, and
they would be willing to do something adequate to the conversion of these perishing souls.
An Indian boy about sixteen years old, who belonged to the
band who joined us yesterday, died this morning. He was
speechless when he was brought here. We attended his funeral in the afternoon. They buried him in a very decent
manner, without any heathen rites, excepting that they buried
with him all his clothes and blankets. I addressed the people at the grave upon the subject of the resurrection and of
the judgement. This was entirely new to them and very
interesting. Tai.quin-su-w&-tish came to my tent towards
evening, and said, what I had said was "tois," it was spiritual, and now he knew more about God. So deep was the in.
terest awakened by the few ideas their benighted minds had
obtained of this most precious truth of our religion, that they
came to my tent after I had retired to rest, and awakened me,
to go and converse still farther with them on the subject.





104


INDIAN HOSPITALITY.


Monday, 7th. We traveled five hours to-day. The Indians make but slow progress in traveling with their village;
for it takes them a long time to pack and unpack, to set
and take down their lodges. This is, however, of but little
consequence to them; for wherever they are, it is their
home.
They are very kind, and manifest their kindness in anticipating all, and more than all, my wants, which they have
the power to supply. They consult me upon all their important business, and are very ready to follow my counsels.
They are ready to furnish little comforts. If the sun shines
with much warmth into my tent, they will cut green bushes
and set them up for shade. A few days since, we encamp.
ed where there were some very fragrant plants of a species
of mint, and the wife of Tai-quin-su-wa-tish, with a few
other women, collected a considerable quantity, and strewed
them in my tent.
We passed to-day mountains of volcanic rocks and over
a more rich, black soil, where we found a good supply of
grass for our horses at night.
Our journey, on the 8th, as usual. My health hitherto,
since I commenced my journey, has been uninterrupted, until to-day I suffered a slight attack of inflammation of the
breast, in consequence of a cold.
The Indian mode of living is very precarious, and yet
they are seldom anxious about the future. When they have
a plenty, they are not sparing; and when they are in want,
they do not complain. The Indians at this time were almost destitute of provisions, and we were approaching the
Salmon river mountains, to pass over which occupies between twelve and fifteen days, and where there are no buffalo and scarcely any other game. I felt a prayerful con




SCARCITY OF PROVISIONS-TIMELY SUPPLY.     105
cern for them, that God would send a supply before we should
get beyond the range of buffalo, and was confident that we
should experience the truth of His word, that he provides
for all their meat in due season; and as the cattle upon the
thousand hills are his, so he would not withhold his providential care from these Indians.
We continued to pass basaltic mountains; and also pass.
ed some very white marl clay, which the Indians use for
cleansing their robes and other garments made of dressed
skins.
Their mode of doing this is to make the clay into a paste,
and rub it upon the garments, and when it becomes dry
rub it off, which process leaves the garment soft, clean, and
white. We encamped to-day where they had before made
an encampment, a little below a steep bank. Near night I
was alarmed by shouts of Indians and a general rush up
the bank. I hastened up and saw great numbers running
towards our camp. It proved to be a foot race, such as
they frequently exercise themselves in, for the purpose of
improving their agility.
September 9th, more unwell. To.day we unexpectedly
saw before us a large band of buffalo. All halted to make
preparation for the chase.  The young men and all the
good hunters prepared themselves, selected the swiftest
horses, examined the few guns they had, and took a supply of
arrows with their bows. Our condition was such, that it
seemed our lives almost depended upon their success. And
while they were preparing, I could not but lift up my heart
in prayer to God, that he would in mercy give them judg.
ment, skill, and success. They advanced towards the herd
of buffalo with great caution, lest they should frighten them
before they could make a near approach; and also to reserve
10*





106


THE CHASE.


the power of their horses for the chase, when it should be
necessary to bring it into full requisition. When the buffalo took the alarm and fled, the rush was made, each Indian
selecting for himself a cow with which he happened to come
into the nearest contact. All were in swift motion, scouring the valley-a cloud of dust began to arise-the firing
of guns and the shooting of arrows followed in close succession-soon here and there buffalo were seen prostrated;
and the women, who followed close in the rear, began the
work of securing the valuable acquisition; and the men
were away again in pursuit of the fleeing herd. Those in
the chase, when as near as two rods, shoot and wheel, expecting the wounded animal to turn upon them.    The
horses appeared to understand the way to avoid danger. As
soon as the wounded animal flies again, the chase is renew.
ed, and such is the alternate wheeling and chasing until the
buffalo sinks beneath its wounds. They obtained between
fifty and sixty.
I was interested to see how expertly the Indians used the
bow and arrow, and how well the women followed up the
chase, and performed their part in dressing those buffalo
which were slain. After traveling six hours to-day, we encamped on the eastern branch of Salmon river, where it is
of considerable magnitude. The pain in my breast changed and seated in my head, on the right side.
On the 10th, my health was no better, and I was obliged
to resort to medicine. I could say with the Psalmist, " I
laid me down and slept; for thou art with me."  We did
not remove to-day, for it was necessary for the Indians to
dry their meat by a process which is called "jerking."  The
meat is cut into pieces, an inch thick, and spread out on a
fixture made with stakes, upon which are laid poles, and





LOOKOUT FOR ENEMIES.              107
upon these cross sticks; and then a moderate fire is placed
beneath, which partly smokes, cooks, and dries it, until it
is so well freed from moisture, that it can be packed, and
will keep without injury almost any length of time. Here
we made preparation for the remainder of my journey to
Walla Walla, which will probably occupy about twenty
days.
September 11th. To-day most of the Nez Perces and
Flatheads left us to continue within the range of buffalo,
that they might secure a larger store of provisions before
winter, leaving, however, about one hundred and fifty to go
with me towards Walla Walla. Before they left us, I experienced another token of their regard in a very valuable
present of twenty fine buffalo tongues, which are a great
delicacy, together with a large quantity of dried meat. I
reciprocated their kindness by making such presents as were
in my power to bestow-among which was a britania cup,
to the first chief, which he highly valued. And I gave him
some writing paper, requesting him to present it to the mis.
sionaries whom I had encouraged him to expect next year.
After traveling three hours, we encamped upon the same
branch of the Salmon river, to give the Indians an oppor.
tunity to dry their meat more thoroughly.
We continued our journey, on the 12th, down the eastern
branch of Salmon river. The valley through which this
river runs is generally fertile, and varies from one to three
or four miles in width, but as we advanced toward the Salmnon river mountains, the mountains upon each side increa.
sed in height and converged towards each other. They pre.
sented some noble prospects. It is a custom with Indians
to send out numbers of their best hunters and warriors, in
different directions, to reconnoiter, and especially when they





108      PREPARATIONS FOR THEIR RECEPTION.
are apprehensive any enemies may be near. We had evi.
dence, from tracks recently made, that Indians of some oth.
er nation, or tribe, were about us; and therefore more than
usual numbers of our men were flanking, and ahead. On
the banks of the river down which we were traveling, there
was a dense growth of willows, extending, however, only a
few rods into the bottom.lands. About two in the afternoon,
we were all very much alarmed to see our men, who were out
as hunters and guards upon the hills, running their horses full
speed, in an oblique direction towards us. Two of them
were our principal chiefs. We knew that they had discov.
ered something more than ordinary, but what we could not
conjecture. Being in a country where war parties of Black.
feet Indians often range, our thoughts were turned upon danger; and soon our fears were increased by seeing on the sides
of the mountains at our left, clouds of dust arise, and in the
obscure distance, men descending as swiftly as their horses
could run. They were so far off that we could not deter.
mine who they were.  At the same time our two chiefs on
the hills halted and made signals which we did not under.
stand. In addition to this, some of the Indians said they
saw Blackfeet Indians in the willows, not far off, between
us and the chiefs; and our belief that it was so, was confirmed, when two deer rushed from the willows towards us, and
when they saw us, instead of returning, only declined a little to the left, and passed before us. These inquiries arose
in my mind-Why have the chiefs halted? Do they see
enemies between us and themselves? Are their signals to
give us warning of' danger? What so frightened the deer
that they rushed out towards us? We were all halted, and
had made what preparation we could for battle. As we did
not know in what part of the willows to make the attack,





BUFFALO.


109


we were waiting for our enemies to commence the fire, and
were expecting every instant to have their balls poured in
upon us. It was a moment of awful suspense. We sent
out a few men upon an eminence to our right, to see what
they could discover, and they soon returned without having
seen any enemies. The two chiefs upon the hills, who were
now joined by those who rushed down the mountains, and
who proved to be some of our own men, applied their whips
to their horses, and in full speed came to us; and Charlie,
the first chief, rode up to me, and smiling, reached out his
hand and said, " cocoil, cocoil," (buffalo, buffalo.) Thus
ended the battle; and the remainder of the day was spent
in killing and dressing buffalo, which was far more pleasant
than fighting Blackfect Indians. This made a desirable addition to their stock of provisions. We encamped in this
place, which supplied a plenty of good grass for our horses,
and where there was no want of fuel.
The inflammation in my head still continued with throb.
bing, pain, and fever-my pulse one hundred a minute. Bled
myself again and took medicine. Thermometer, at noon, 73'.
Sabbath, 13th. My health no better, and my strength
was failing. I felt that all was right, and that I needed this
trial to lead me to an examination of my spiritual condition,
my motives in engaging in this mission, and whether I could
give up all for Christ to promote his kingdom in the world.
I thought I could surrender all into the hands of God, my
soul to my Redeemer, and my body to be buried by these In.
dians in this desert land. I felt as though it was desirable to
finish my tour, and return and make my report, and urge
the sending of missionaries into this field, which is white
for the harvest; and to the bosom of my family and friends;
but still I would not have any will of my own, but say, the





110


GEOLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS.


will of the Lord be done. These Indians persevere in their
kindness, and are very respectful, and ready to obey as fast
as I can impart to them instruction; and they say that what
I say to them is different from any thing they have ever
heard, being spiritual, and that they wish to have Sueapo
(American) teachers. If the American churches will not
send them teachers, criminality must rest upon them for
disobedience to Christ's authority. Are there any heathen
more anxious than these to be taught the way of salvation,
where there are so few hinderances to the introduction of the
gospel? There are no idols, no sacrifices, no power of caste
to combat; nor, as yet, the destructive influence which ex.
ists upon the frontiers.
September 14th. Re-commenced our journey, and proceeded five hours down the river, and stopped a few miles
above the main branch of Salmon river, which comes from
the south, and has its origin in two small lakes in the
mountains north of Henry's fork.
For some distance on our way, on the 15th, the mountains came down near the river, rendering the valley through
which it runs, narrow. Some of these mountains terminate in high bluffs, which in many places present uncommonly interesting strata. The lowest stratum was white
marly earth, about twenty feet in depth, nearly horizontal,
and somewhat indurated; upon this a green stratum of
about four feet in thickness; next a stratum of brown of about
ten feet; upon this a stratum of red about the same depth
of the green; over this a mould of decomposed lava. This
marly earth slightly effervesces with acid. The rocks in
most places are basalt-in some places very fine wacke.
Noticing some unusual appearances in the condition of the
earth near the foot of the mountains, on the left, I rode to the





PETRIFIED STUMP-SCENE OF MOURNING.


111


place, and found a cluster of volcanic eruptions, which, though
ancient, appeared more recent than any I had previously seen.
A little way down the descent into one of the craters, I
found a petrified stump, standing in its natural position; its
roots and the grain of the wood entire. I think it was
cedar, and about eighteen inches in diameter. This stood
undoubtedly, upon what was the natural surface of the earth,
and the mound above and around was thrown up by volcanic fires. While time is mouldering the lava into dust, the
wind is scattering it over the country around, to renew the
soil which was destroyed by the great conflagration, which
once fused this whole region of the setting sun. This petrified stump, found in this position, proves that this country,
which is now so destitute of wood, was once supplied if not
covered with forests. Does not this fact overthrow many of
the theories of the formation of the prairies of the west?
From various sources of evidence, it is plain that these
prairie regions were once far better supplied with wood than
at present, and also that the present supply is constantly
diminishing.
We passed, to-day, a place which presented a very mournful scene, where two years ago thirty Nez Perce young
men, who were killed by the Blackfeet, were buried. They
were all active young men, going out upon some expedition,
the nature of which I could not learn. They had not gone
but a little way from the village, which encamped here, when
passing through a very narrow defile on a small stream of
water, walled up on both sides with perpendicular rocks, the
Blackfeet Indians, who had way-laid them, attacked them
from before and behind, and killed all but one, who mounted
a horse belonging to the Blackfeet, and rushed his way
through the opposing enemy. After the Blackfeet Indians





112


SCENE OF MOURNING.


had retired from the place of slaughter, the Nez Perc6s
brought away the dead bodies and buried them in this place.
According to their mode, they buried with them their clothes,
blankets, and buffalo robes, in graves only about three feet
deep, putting five or six bodies in a grave. Some time after this, the Blackfeet Indians came and dug them up, and
made plunder of their blankets and whatever they thought
worth taking. The Nez Perces, some time afterward, came
this way and collected their bones and buried them again.
The graves in which they were first buried, were open
when we passed, and fragments of garments were lying
about. Here my Indians halted, and mourned in silence
over their slaughtered sons and brothers. The whole scene
was very affecting, and I could not but long for the time
to come when they shall settle down in a Christian community, and cease from their dangerous wanderings; and also
that the gospel may soon be sent to the Blackfeet Indians,
and that they may imbibe its spirit of peace on earth and
good will toward men. After some time spent in reflections
and solemn mourning, we left the place and proceeded down
the river, and encamped near Bonneville's Fort, which he
has abandoned, and which is situated in a small pleasant valley. This place would be favorable for fur business, was
it not on the ground where conflicting tribes often meet.





SALMON RIVER.


113


CHAPTER VII.
Salmon river-mineral salt-chimneys-forest trees, new species of
pine-geology-sulphur lake-a rare animal-new species of squirrels and pheasant-came to the Lewis branch of the Columbia-ferryman-Basaltic formation-fine climate-arrive at Walla Walla.
SALMON river is a beautiful transparent stream; its shores
are covered with pebbles from primitive formation.
Took an observation of latitude, and found it to be 440
41'. After passing down the river two hours in a north.
west direction, we entered into the mountains, leaving Salmon river on our left. And the river literally passed into
the mountains; for the opening in the perpendicular rocks,
two or three hundred feet high, and up these mountains sev.
eral thousand feet high, was wide enough only for the river
to find a passage. It flowed into the dark chasm, and we
saw it no more. During the two hours ride, before we entered the mountains, the scenery was grand. While there
was some level bottom.land along the river, in every direction mountains were seen rising above mountains, and peaks
above peaks, up to the regions of perpetual snow. These
mountains are not so much in chains, as of a conical form,
with bases in most instances small in proportion to their
height. So much sublimity and grandeur, combined with
so much variety, is rarely presented to view. The geology
was much as in days past. Horizontal strata as yesterday,
with interchanges of white, green, red, and brown; and in
one place, for more than a mile in length, a vertical front
was presented, facing the south-west, of one hundred and
11





114


THE CHIMNEYS.


fifty, and two hundred feet high, resting upon a base of conglomerated rock. The stones of which it is composed are
round, of primitive origin, cemented with marly clay, petrified, and of the various colors already mentioned. The
opposite side of the river is studded with dark basalt.
After leaving Salmon river we traversed a dreary, narrow,
and winding course for several hours, until an open space
spread out before us. Here I beheld what appeared at a distance like a village of thirty or forty houses, which the fire
had desolated, leaving the decayed, and broken, and tottering chimneys yet standing. On a nearer approach they
proved to be masses of conglomerated rock of a slaty mixture, and elevated at unequal heights of ten, twenty, and
even forty feet. The firm and impenetrable texture of their
material preserves them from being crumbled to a level with
the earth around them.
From this place we turned more westerly, and passed a
high mountain, parts of which are very steep, and encamped in a valley by a stream of crystal water.
On the 17th, we pursued our journey over high mountains, which, in some places, were intersected by deep ravines very difficult to be passed. Encamped in a grove of
large Norway pines.
September 18th. The villages of Indians make slow progress in traveling, and being desirous to expedite my journey to some of the posts of the Hudson Bay Company,
I took ten Indians and went forward, leaving the remainder to follow on at their leisure. We passed over a mountain six thousand feet high, occupying more than half a day
to arrive at the summit. These mountains are covered with
woods, excepting some small proportions, which are open
and furnish grass for our horses. The woods are composed





THE ELASTIC PINE.


115


mainly of fir, spruce, Norway pine, and a new species of
pine. The leaves of this new species resemble those of
pitch pine, growing in bunches at the ends of the limbs, but
are shorter and smaller; the bark and the body of the tree
resemble the tamarack; the wood is firm and very elastic.
On account of this last and peculiar property, I have called
it the elastic pine. It grows very tall and straight, and
without branches except near the top. These pines would
undoubtedly make excellent masts and spars for shipping. On
experiments which I made, I found it very difficult to break
sticks an inch in diameter. After passing part of the way
down this mountain, we stopped for the night.
We arose early on the 19th, and commenced our day's
labor, and by diligence went more than twice the distance
than when we were with the village. We were much annoyed by trees that had fallen across the trail. Encamped
upon the south-east side of a very high mountain, where
there was a large opening, a spring of water, and a good
supply of grass for our horses.
Sabbath, 20th. We continued in the same encampment,
to rest according to the commandment. I expressed my wish
to the chief, that the day should be spent religiously, and
that he should communicate to his men, as well as he was
able, the scripture truths he had himself learned. This was
faithfully done on his part, and he prayed with them with
much apparent devotion. I was interested to see how read.
ily they were disposed to obey to the extent of their knowledge, and I was affected with the thought that so few were
willing to come and teach these benighted minds. After
they had closed their worship, I sang a hymn and prayed,
and conversed with them.
The inflammation in my head continuing, I bled myself
copiously, which reduced my pulse for awhile, but increas.





116


REFLECTIONS.


ed my weakness, so that I could walk only a few rods without much fatigue.
Sometimes, amidst all the evidences of God's mercy to
me, I found my heart sinking into despondency, and was
ready to say, I shall perish in these wild, cold mountains.
It seemed, that such was my loss of strength, and I was becoming so emaciated, that I could not endure the fatigue
of traveling eight days longer over these mountains, which
are on an average about six thousand feet high; and as
they range north and south, with only very narrow valleys
between, and our course was only a little north of west, we
were constantly ascending and descending; and we could
not discontinue our journey for the want of provisions.
The thought that I must fail of accomplishing the object of
my mission, and close my life without a sympathising friend
near with whom I could converse and pray, and be buried in
these solitary mountains, filled me with a gloom which I
knew was wrong.    My judgment was clear, but I could
not make it influence the feelings of my heart. At night I
sometimes thought a pillow desirable, upon which to lay my
aching, throbbing head, but my portmanteau was a very
good substitute, and I rested quietly upon the ground, and
every morning arose refreshed by sleep.
Monday, 21st. At a very early hour we resumed our jour.
ney, and our horses being recruited with the rest and good
fare they had yesterday, made a long day's journey. I had
noticed the mountain over which we passed to-day, which
is about seven thousand feet high, two days before we arrived
at the top; and queried in my mind whether Charlie, my
guide, would not depart in this instance from the common
custom of the Indians, which is to pass over the highest
parts of mountains, and to descend into the lowest valley s.





A CURIOSITY.17


117


But we passed the highest point, excepting one peak,
which, in nearly all its parts, is perpendicular, and rises like
an immense castle or pyramid. It is composed of basalt;
and around it volcanic rocks lie scattered in great profusion.
At the base there are also excavations, around and below
which there is a largre quantity of lava. Trhis is a granite
mountain, much of which is in its natural state. The way
by which I calculated the height of these mountains is, that
some of them are tipped with perpetual snow; and as eight
thousand feet, in latitude 420, is the region of perpetual
snow, so there can be no doubt, as these do not vary great.
ly from each other, that they average six thousand feet.
I was much interested with a curiosity upon this mountain, wvhich was two granite rocks, each weighing many
tons, lplaced one upon the other, like the parts of an hour
glass. It was wonderful, how nicely the uppermost one was
balanced upon the other. It would seem that a puff of
wind would blow it off its centre. Charlie, the chief, seeing
me one day examining minerals, with a magnifying glass,
said, "4these white men know every thingr. They know
what rocks are made of, they know how to make iron, and
how to make watches, and how to make the needle always
point to the north." They had seen a compass before, and
when I showed them mine, they said, "1that would keep me
from getting lost." A waterfall was seen descending downL
a higrh point of this mountain, which, by its continual foam.
ingr, looked like a white belt girding its side.
Left our encampment, on the 22d, at an early hour and
continued our mountainous Journey. Parts of the way the
ascent and descent was at an angle of 450, and in some
places even more steep; and sometimes on the verge of dizzy
precipices; sometimes down shelves of rocks where my In.
11*





118


GEOLOGY.


dian horse would jump from one to another; and in other
places he would brace himself upon all fours and slide down;
and I had become so weak that I could not walk on foot,
but was obliged to keep upon his back. Frequently between
the mountains there would be space enough only for a rush.
ing stream of the purest water to find its way; the bank on
the one side of which would terminate the descent of one
mountain, and the other bank commence the ascent of another. The question often arose in my mind, can this section of country ever be inhabited, unless these mountains
shall be brought low, and these valleys shall be exalted?
But they may be designed to perpetuate a supply of lumber
for the wide-spread prairies; and they may contain mines
of treasures, which, when wrought, will need these forests
for fuel, and these rushing streams for water power. Roads
may be constructed running north and south, so that trans.
portations may be made south to the Salmon river, and north
to the Coos-coots.ke.*
After a fatiguing day's march, we encamped in a low
stony place where there was but little grass, for the want
of which some of our horses strayed away.    Our men
killed a deer, which was a very agreeable exchange for
dried buffalo.
The mountains, over which we made our way on the 23d,
were of primitive formation, with the exception of some
parts which were volcanic. Granite and mica slate pre.
dominated. In one place there were immense quantities of
granite, covering more than a hundred acres, in a broken
* The name of this river in the journal of Clarke and Lewis, and
in all other writings I have seen, is written Coos-coos-kee. This signifies the water water. But Coos-coots-ke signifies the little water.
Coos, water; coots, little; ke, the. The little river.





MOUNTAIN LAKES.


119


state, as though prepared for making walls, mostly in cubic
forms. In some places the change from granite, in its natural state, to amygdaloid, was so gradual, that it would be
difficult to say where the one ended and the other began;
like the change from day to night. While riding along
upon a narrow ridge of this mountain, I saw two small lakes
a little down the sides; one on the right hand which appeared to be very black, and the other upon the left was
very yellow with sulphur, issuing from a spring in the mountain side. These two lakes were directly opposite each
other, and not far distant. I should have examined them
more minutely, had my strength permitted me to go down
to them, and again ascend to where I must have left my
horse. There was also much in the scenery around to ad.
mire; mountain rising above mountain, and perpendicular
above perpendicular.
We spent the night in a valley, where there was a small
meadow, well supplied with grass. The woods around were
very dense, composed mostly of the new species of pine,
which here were very tall and straight, not however very
large in diameter.
Took an early departure, on the 24th, from our encampment, and made good progress through the day. About the
middle of the day, we came where we could look forward
without the sight being obstructed by mountains, and it
was pleasant to have a prospect opening into the wide world.
We continued to descend, until we came into a vale of considerable extent, through which flows a large branch of the
Coos-coots-ke. Found to-day a new species of elder, which
grows very large, five or six inches in diameter, and from
ten to twenty feet high, bearing berries which are blue and
pleasant to the taste. Kentuc caught me some fine trout.





120


A RARE ANIMAL, A NEW SPECIES.


Here was a band of horses, belonging to the Nez Perces,
which they left here last spring. They were in fine order.
It is remarkable that their horses do not wander far from
where they are left, although there are no fences to inclose
them. Here some of my Indians changed their horses and
took fresh ones, relieving those which were worn down with
long journeying.
On the 25th, we pursued our course down this fertile vale,
until one in the afternoon, when contrary to my expectations,
we left this branch of the Coos-coots-ke, which was too much
of a northerly direction, and ascended another high moun.
tain, which was densely covered with woods. Among the
largest trees is a new species of fir, single leafed, the bark
thick and rough like the bark of hemlock, but the balsam is
the same as the common fir. I saw more birds in this valley, than in all the country through which I had passed west
of the Rocky Mountains; robins in great numbers, the
magpie, and with them a new species of bird about as large
as the magpie, its color uniformly a dull red, somewhat resembling chocolate. Thermometer stood at 54~.
On the 26th, we proceeded but about four hours on our
way, and encamped on the side of a mountain near its sum.
mit; the distance to another suitable place for our horses
over sabbath, being too great. Saw to-day a new species
of animal, such as I never saw before. It was about as
large as a martin, and probably of that genus. Its color
was a bright orange red, resembling a live coal of fire; its
fur appeared to be very fine; its head round and large; its
eyes black, prominent, and very piercing. I was forward
of my Indians, and when it saw me, it sprang about eight
feet up a tree, ran part of the way up, but appeared to be
afraid to ascend higher. Attempts were made to obtain, it,





A CHIEF'S ANXIETY.


121


but without success. An Indian hit it with an arrow, but
did not kill it, and it came down and escaped. I saw in
these mountains a new variety of striped squirrel, only
about half as large as those found in the United States;
and another kind, in every respect resembling the red squir.
rel, but in the color. It is nearly black, excepting its under
parts, which are rufous, or reddish yellow. Also a new species of pheasant, if it may be called a pheasant. It is much
smaller than the common species; somewhat lighter colored
and more spotted; its habits are gregarious like the common
quail. It was remarkably tame, as if unacquainted with
enemies; and when assailed with stones by the Indians, ap.
peared to be amazed, and made scarcely any effort to escape.
Its flesh was very good, and furnished an additional supply
to our waning stock of provisions.
Sabbath, 27th. We continued in our encampment. My
health no better-sweat profusely last night, and yet the in.
flammation was rather increasing-took from my arm a pint
of blood, which, while it weakened, gave me relief.
We had religious services both in the morning and afternoon of this day, as last sabbath. Charlie prays every
morning and evening with his men, and asks a blessing
when they eat. In the afternoon, he, with Compo, my in.
terpreter, came and sat by me, and said, " we are now near
our country, and when we come into it, I wish you to look
over it and see if it is good for missionaries to live in. I
know but little about God-my people know but little-I
wish my people to know more about God." He said he
wished to talk with me much more, and was sorry I had not
a better qualified interpreter.
Monday, 28th, my health was improved, and we made a
long day's march and emerged from the mountains about





122


MEETING WITH INDIANS.


two o'clock in the afternoon. Not finding water as we ex.
pected, we were obliged to travel on until near night, when
we came to another branch of the Coos-coots-ke, at which we
found several lodges of Nez Perce Indians. A salute was
fired, and then we were welcomed with a ceremonious, but
hearty shaking of hands. They feasted us with some excellent dried salmon, for which I made them some small presents. I was rejoiced to find myself safely through the Salmon river mountains, and convalescent. These mountains
were far more difficult to pass than the Rocky Mountains, as
we could not take advantage of any valley, but one in which
we journeyed only two-thirds of a day. Excepting in the
middle of the days, the atmosphere was cold, and frequently
ice was formed during the night. It was a favor that we
had no snow, which often falls upon the tops of these mountains very early in the autumn; nor had we any storms, or
very unpleasant weather in our passage. Frequently heavy
gales of winds sweep through these mountains, and pros.
trate parts of the forests; but we had none to endanger us.
On the 29th, we proceeded down this branch more than
half the day, and found the soil black and good, well cov.
ered with grass, but dried into hay by the summer drouth.,Here, as on most prairies, there is much want of wood,
there being but little besides what is found along the streams
of water. This country continues to be volcanic, as is
evinced by the abundance of lava and basalt. Came at
noon to six lodges of Indians, who welcomed us with the
same friendly expressions, as those did where we encamped
last night. We left the branch of the Coos.coots-ke and
ascended westerly to the upper prairies, which are as fertile
as the lower, and do not suffer more with the drouth. After
a long and fatiguing ride over these prairies, we descended





DROUTHSO


123


into a deep gulf, almost enclosed with perpendicular walls
of basalt; in the bottom of which, we found a large spring
of water, by which we encamped.
Arose very early on the 30th, set forward, and made good
progress, considering the exhausted state of our horses.
Most of the streams were dried up, and one, which is
generally large, and where we intended to have arrived last
night, was wholly destitute of water and grass. Ascend.
ing out of this gulf, we found toward the summit of the
high prairie, a good spring of water, with sufficiency of
grass, where we refreshed ourselves at noon. The horses,
contrary to my expectations, preferred the dried grass to
the green. In the afternoon, we went through a section of
country well supplied with woods, chiefly made up of yellow
pine and white oak; where much of the soil appeared to
be very good. Towards night we came to a stream of
water running west, where we encapmed. Thermometer
820 at noon.
Thursday, October 1st. Arose early with substantially
better health, for which I cannot be too thankful. After
travelling a few miles, we came to several lodges of Nez
Perces, who gave us their kind welcome, and seemed, as
at the other lodges, much pleased to see their first chief.
They manifested the same feelings on learning who I was,
and the object of my coming into their country, as their
countrymen did whom we met at the rendezvous. With
these Indians, I left two of my horses, which were too much
exhausted with the fatigues of our long journey to proceed
any farther. I had fears that they would not endure the
deprivations of the coming winter, without any shelter from
the cold and storms, and with nothing to eat, except what
they could find upon the prairies.





124


GEOLOGY.


We arrived, two o'clock in the afternoon, at the Lewis
branch of the Columbia river, near the confluence of the
Coos-coots-ke. Though this is a large river, yet on account
of the summer's drouth there is less water flowing down
its channel than I anticipated.
A squalid looking indian took us over the ferry in a canoe, which appeared as weather-beaten as himself, and re.
minded me of fabled Charon and his cerulean boat.
This country differs very much firom what I had expected;
for while the soil is generally good, and furnishes a supply
for grazing, yet there is such want of summer rains, that
some kinds of grain cannot flourish, especially Indian corn.
The crops sown in the fall of the year, or very early in the
spring, would probably be so far advanced before the severity of the drouth should be felt, that they would do well.
In general there is a great want of wood for building, fen.
cing and fuel; but at the confluence of these rivers a supply may be brought down the Coos-coots.ke. This place
combines many advantages for a missionary station.
I began to doubt the correctness of the statements of
some travelers, in regard to the great numbers of wild horses,
and the immense multitudes of wolves, which they say they
saw this side the Rocky Mountains; for as yet I have seen
no wild horses, and only a very few wolves. Encamped
upon the west bank of Lewis' river, or as it is more commonly called, the Snake river.
On the 2d, we arose early, but were detained some time, before all our horses could be found. We started about eight,
and proceeded three hours down the river to a place where
it takes a northerly bend, through a section of mountains
which are difficult to be passed. Our direct course to
Walla Walla being west north-west, we here left the river





GEOLOGY.


125


and followed a small stream up a valley nearly to its source.
The section of country through which we journeyed to-day
was mountainous. One part of the river along which we
traveled was walled up with volcanic rocks. The lowest
part was amygdaloid, about thirty feet high above the river,
and very cellular, terminating in a narrow horizontal plain.
Above this is superimposed columnar basalt; the columns
of which are regular pentagons, varying from two to four
feet in diameter, rising sixty feet high, perpendicular excepting in one place, where they were a little inclined. Above
this formation of columns there was a stratum of volcanic
stones and disintegrated basalt, of some six or eight feet
thickness, lying in a confused state. Then upon this ano.
ther section of basalt and amygdaloid of fifty feet depth, and
so on to the height of 300 feet, nearly perpendicular. The
pentagons are as regularly formed, and have much the same
appearance, as those composing the Giant's causeway in
Ireland. From the best observations I could make, I was
led to conclude that the different sections were raised,
at different periods of time, by widely extended subterranean fires. The basalt in this place, and also in almost all
other places, which I have yet seen, is of very dark color,
containing augite, or black oxyd of iron; and is what Clark
and Lewis, and those who have copied from them, have called
black rocks.
Saturday, 3d. We took an early departure from our encampment. We had through the day, an uncommonly high
wind from the west, a pleasant sun, and serene atmosphere.
We have had no rain since the 18th of July, and not more
than five cloudy days. The water this side the Rocky
Mountains is excellent, and no country can possess a climate
more conducive to health. After passing over a somewhat
12





126


CAMMAS ROOT.


hilly country well covered with grass, we encamped for the
night, and for the sabbath, in a fertile vale upon an upper
branch of the Walla Walla river. Here we found three
lodges of Nez Perces who were out on a hunt for deer, and
whose women were gathering cammas roots. This root in
some degree resembles in taste and nutritive properties the
sweet potato, and constitutes a large item of food of the
Indians throughout a considerable section of country this
side Salmon river and Salmon river mountains. The common tokens of friendship were interchanged, and they presented us a share of such food as they themselves had.
Sabbath, 4th. We had public worship, at which all the
men, women and children of three lodges attended. What
there was of a truly spiritual nature in our worship, was
known to the Searcher of hearts, but there was the appear.
ance of devotion, and good attention was paid to what was
said. It is affecting to see the anxiety these Indians man.
ifest to know what they must do to please God, and to ob-.
tain salvation.
Employed part of the day in reading Vincent's Explana.
tion of the catechism. This is an excellent compendium of
divinity, and is far too much neglected in families and sab.
bath schools.
Decamped early, on the 5th, and pursued our journey
down the Walla Walla river, through a beautiful valley of
thirty miles in extent, parts of which are overgrown with
the common trees and shrubs of such locations, interspersed
with wild roses. The prairie hen, the avoset, the robin, and
varieties of smaller birds, seem to have selected this as a
favorite retreat; while the animals, which we have been
seeking for game, desert this delightful place and find their
dwellings on more rugged tracts. This spot impressed me





FRIENDLY RECEPTION.


127


favorably as the situation for the missionaries who should
succeed me, and in every thing but its populousness would
furnish advantages beyond any I have as yet seen. The
Indians of different tribes border on, and around, this valley,
and the location is therefore less central for any one of them.
They might, however, be brought by degrees to collect and
settle down around a mission station, when once it.should
be established.
October 6th. We arose early and commenced our journey with the animating hope of reaching Walla Walla, and
of seeing civilized people before noon. Ascended the bluffs
and passed over an undulating prairie of good soil, leaving
Walla Walla river to our left. As we drew near the Co.
lumbia river the soil became more and more sandy. Before
we arrived at the fort, my attention was arrested by seeing
cows and other cattle, in fine order, feeding upon the bottom.
land; and the sight was not only novel, after having been
so long from civilized life, but the more interesting as it was
unexpected. As we came near the fort, the Indians fired
their customary salute, and then rushed forward to the
gate. Mr. P. C. Pambrun, the superintendent, met us, an d
gave me a kind welcome. I never felt more joy in entering
a habitation of civilized people, whose language was not
strange. I felt that I had cause of thankfulness, that God,
in his great mercy, and by his watchful providence, had
brought me in safety and with restored health to this place.
Soon I was invited into another apartment to breakfast;
and it was truly pleasant again to sit in a chair, at a table
spread with furniture, and such luxuries as bread and butter,
sugar and milk, of which I had been deprived for about
three months.





128


FORT WALLA WALLA.


CHAPTER VIII.
Description of Walla Walla-the kind treatment of the Indians by the
Hudson Bay Company-leave Walla Walla for fort Vancouver-loquacious orator-rapids-introduction to the Cayuse Indians-morning prospect-long rapids-Volcanic mountains-trial of Indian
generosity-arrival at the falls of the Columbia river-rousing effects
of oratory-La Dalles-Boston trading company-remarkable subsidence-Cascades-Chenooks are the Flatheads and Nez Perces-dangerous rapids-Indian burying places-Pillar rock--interesting waterfall-sea fowl-arrive at fort Vancouver.
FORT Walla Walla is situated on the south side of the
Columbia river, ten miles below the confluence of the Columbia and Lewis' river, which last is commonly called, by
the people belonging to the Hudson Bay Company, Nez
Perc6 river; and one mile above the Walla Walla river, in
latitude 460 2', longitude 1190 30'. Two miles below the
fort there is a range of mountains running north and south.
which, though not high, are yet of considerable magnitude;
and where the Columbia passes through, it is walled up on
both sides with basalt, in many places three hundred feet
perpendicular height, which renders the scenery picturesque.
The soil, for considerable distance around, with the exception of some strips of bottom-land, is sandy, and for the want
of summer rains is not productive. This establishment
is not only supplied with the necessaries of life, but also
with many of the conveniences. They have cows, horses,
hogs, fowls, &c. and cultivate corn, potatoes, and a variety
of garden vegetables; and might enlarge these and other





HUDSON BAY COMPANY.


129


productions to a great extent. They also keep on hand
dry goods and hardware, not only for their own convenience,
but also for Indian trade. Most of the year they have a
good supply of fish; and an abundance of salmon of the
first quality.
I arrived here in six months and twenty-three days after
leaving home-forty-five days from Rendezvous-and twenty from entering Salmon river mountains.
Wednesday, 7th. Continued in this place. Settled with
my interpreter, gave presents to my Indians, and made arrangements for leaving to.morrow, in a canoe propelled by
Indians belonging to the Walla Walla tribe, for Fort Van.
couver, which is two hundred miles down the Columbia.
Thus I am putting myself, without fear, into the hands of
Indians, where a few years ago an escort of fifty men was
necessary for safety, and shall have to pass places which
have been battle grounds between traders and Indians.
The gentlemen belonging to the Hudson Bay Company
are worthy of commendation for their good treatment of
the Indians, by which they have obtained their friendship
and confidence, and also for the efforts, which some few of
them have made to instruct those about them in the first
principles of our holy religion; especially in regard to
equity, humanity and morality. This company is of long
standing, have become rich in the fur trade, and intend to
perpetuate the business; therefore they consult the prosperity of the Indians as intniately connected with their own.
I have not heard as yet of a single instance of any Indians
being wantonly killed by any of the men belonging to this
company. Nor have I heard any boasting among them of
the satisfaction taken in killing or abusing Indians, that I
have elsewhere heard.
12*





130


A VOYAGE COMMENCED.


Thursday, 8th. My three Walla Walla Indians having
got all things in readiness, mats, provisions, &c. furnished
by the kindness of Mr. Pambrun, and he having given them
their instructions, I went on board the canoe at nine o'clock
in the morning, and having passed the usual salutations,
we shoved off, and gently glided down the river, which here
is three-fourths of a mile wide. I felt myself in a new
situation-my horses dismissed-in a frail canoe upon the
wide waters of the Columbia, subject to winds, and with
rapids and falls on the way, and among stranger Indians,
two hundred miles by water before I could expect to find
any white men; to pass through several nations whose languages are entirely different; yet the change from horseback, for months over mountains and plains, through defiles
and ravines, was anticipated with satisfaction.
My three Indians were well acquainted with the river and
with the art of managing the canoe. One of them understood the Nez Pcrce language tolerably well, was very loquacious and vain, and wished to be thought a man of importance. He told me he was to do the talking, and the
other two were to do as he should direct. On account of his
important and loquacious habits, I called him my orator.
One of the other two, who took the stern and steered the
canoe, was a stout, brawny, savage looking man, excepting
the expression of his countenance, which was indicative of
intelligence and good nature. The third, who took the bow,
was an able and well disposed young man. The channel
through the volcanic mountain a little below the fort, is one
of the wonders of nature; how it was formed through those
immensely hard basaltic rocks to the depth of about three
hundred feet, and for the distance of two or three miles,
remains unexplained.  But my attention was so much





CAYUSE INDIANS.


131


taken up with the boiling eddies and the varying currents,
that I did not take those observations which under different
circumstances might have been made, and which the scenery
and phenomena demanded. In one place, as we passed out
the mountain channel, the river ran so rapidly over a rocky
bed, and the water was so broken, that I thought it unsafe
to continue in the canoe, and requested my Indians to put
me ashore. My talking Indian said, "tois," (good.) I told
him, waiitu tois, kapseis, not good, but bad. But still he
said, tois, tois, and I concluded, that they would not decline
putting me on shore, if there was any particular danger.
The man at the stern put off into the middle of the river,
where the water was the smoothest, but where the current
was equally strong, and with his keen eye fixed upon the
varying eddies, applied his brawny arms to the work; and
whenever a change of his paddle from one side of the canoe
was necessary, it was done in the twinkling of an eye.
Any failure of right management would have been disastrous; but they kept the  Dnoe in the right direction, and
we shot down with such velocity, as, together with the breaking in of some water, to create solicitude. But this served
to make the smooth parts more pleasant and my mind more
tranquil in regard to future dangers.
At two o'clock in the afternoon, we called at an encamp.
ment of Cayuse Indians of about a dozen lodges. My orator, when we had come within hearing, announced our ap.
proach and informed them who I was, and the object of my
tour, and that they must prepare to receive me with all due
respect-that I was not a trader and that I had not come
with goods, but to teach them how to worship God. They
arranged themselves in single file, the chiefs and principal
men forward, then the more common men, next the women,





132


MORNING PROSPECT.


according to their rank, the wives of chiefs, the old women,
the young-and then the children according to age. All
things being made ready, the salute was fired, and I landed
and shook hands with all, even the youngest children, many
of whom, when they presented the hand, would turn away
their faces through fear. I made them some presents, and
bought of them some dried salmon and cranberries. These
were the first cranberries I had seen west of the Rocky
Mountains, and they were a grateful acid. The Indians ex.
pressed much satisfaction in seeing me, and in the object of
my coming among them. I told them I could not explain to
them what I wished, but they must meet me next spring at
Walla Walla, where I should have an interpreter, and then
I would tell them about God. After again shaking hands
with them, we went on our way.
At five o'clock we landed upon the north shore, and en.
camped near a large number of Nez Perce Indians, who
came about me with the same tokens of friendship and kind.
ness, which characterize their nation. Among their acts of
kindness they brought me wood, which in this section of
the country is scarce; and gathered small bushes and grass
to make my bed upon. In return I made them some presents.
October 9th. Arose before day, and as soon as any light
appeared, resumed our voyage down the river. The morning was pleasant, the country around open and diversified
with rol!ng prairies and distant mountain tops, mellowed
with the opening beams of the rising sun. It was a time
for pleasing contemplations, such as banished all feelings of
solitude, although no sound broke upon the ear, but the regularly timed strokes of the paddles of my Indians, who were
urging forward the canoe with an accelerated velocity,
greater than the current of the river would have carried us.





RAPIDS.


133


The operations of nature were spread out in silence. About
the middle of the day, the silence was interrupted by the
roar of a distant rapid; the sound of which continued to
increase, until the white breaking water was presented to
view. For several miles the bed of the river was filled with
rocks, and several rocky islands and shoals, among which
the whirling and foaming water was forcing its way.. The
only part of the river, which presented any appearance of
safety, was along near the south shore. This had somewhat the appearance of a wake. My Indians made no
movement for landing, but kept near the middle of the river.
On my expressing some apprehensions of danger, they pointed toward the wake and said, "tois."  I pointed forward
and toward the north shore, and said, kapseis, bad. They
answered, "ai, kapscis;" and with the language of signs
accompanying their words, told me they would keep the
canoe in the good water, and it would not fill, nor be drawn
into the breakers. My confidence in their skill of management being well established, I made no objection to their
going forward, and in a very short time we had passed the
apparent danger, and were gliding along over the smooth
surface on the south side of a large island, about six miles
long.
During the day, the country around was comparatively
level, covered with a black soil, which appears to have been
formed by atmospheric agents decomposing the volcanic
substances, which so generally abound. This section of
the country is well supplied with grass, which during the
summer drouth is converted into hay. Who can calculate
the multitudes of cattle and sheep, which might be kept
here summer and winter, with no other labor than the care
of a few herdsmen and shepherds.  Encamped upon the





134


TRIAL OF INDIAN GENEROSITY.


north side of the river among some sand hills, a little below
several lodges of Walla Walla Indians, to whom I had the
usual and formal introduction.
I was pleased to find Indians belonging to different tribes
scattered all along this river, living in harmony without
any feuds or jealousies. It speaks much in favor of their
kind and peaceable dispositions.
On the 10th, we arose before day, after a night's comfort.
able rest, and by the first breaking light had our baggage
on board and were under way. Towards the middle of the
day, we came to a more mountainous tract of country, and
at a place where the mountains crossed the river, there were
very rocky rapids, but by winding our way among islands
near the north shore, we made a safe descent. About noon,
a head wind, which commenced in the fore part of the day,
had become fresh and the waves began to multiply their
white caps, so that it was dangerous navigation for our
canoe, and we had to land and wait for a more favorable
time. We encamped on the north side of the river under a
very high and romantic basaltic mountain; in some parts
near us the rocky walls were more than two hundred feet in
perpendicular height-in one place hanging over. In some
places, and at different altitudes of this immense wall, there
were cavities of considerable magnitude, and in others, wide
and deep fissures; through one of which passes the road
traveled by pedestrians and those on horseback. This place
is ten miles above the Falls of the Columbia, which the In.
dians call the turn turn; the same expression they use for
the beating of the heart.
About a mile above us, were encamped some Walla Wallas, many of whom came to my tent and wished to enter
into trade with me, offering beaver at a low price. I told





FALLS OF THE COLUMBIA.


135


them to trade was not my business, any farther than to buy
salmon, &c. for food. My orator told me one of them was
a Meoho6t, a chief, and would expect a present. As a trial
of their disposition, I told him they had not brought me any
wood for a fire, and I would not give them any thing until
they showed their kindness. But he said I must make the
chief a present and buy of them wood. I replied, waiitu, if
he is a chief let him show the generosity of a chief. Very
soon they brought wood, and a fire was made, which I fol.
lowed with some presents.
Sabbath, 11th. Continued in the same encampment, and
my heart's desire was much excited for the salvation of
these poor heathen. There were a sufficient number here
to have made a decent congregation if I had possessed any
medium of communication. Their language differs from
the Nez Perces', so that I could have no communication
with them only by my orator, who asked me if he should
teach these Indians what he had learned about God and his
worship. I gave him permission, though I had fears he
was influenced more by love of distinction than any higher
motive; but still, if any true light should be imparted to
them, I would rejoice in it.
I arose the latter part of the night of the 12th, and the
weather being calm, and the moon shining pleasantly, we
took our departure for the Falls, where we arrived some
time before day. Above the Falls there is a large island,
on the south side of which there is a commodious bay, near
which and upon the river De Shutes, which here unites with
the Columbia, there is a village of the Fall Indians of about
thirty lodges. Here we landed, and my talker raised his
oratorical voice to such a note as aroused the whole village,
calling upon the chiefs to arise, and with their people re




136


LA DALLES.


ceive the personage with him in due form. It was but a
short time before their line was formed, the first chief lead.
ing the way, and others according to their rank and age
following, and the ceremony of shaking hands was performed; "and all retired to their lodges again.
There is a great want of neatness among Indians in general, but more especially among those on this river, who
live by fishing.
Here we left our canoe, and took horses and proceeded
by land, upon the south side of the river, by the Falls, and
down the La Dalles, six miles. From the lower end of the
island where the rapids begin, to the perpendicular fall, is
about two miles; and here the river contracts, when the
water is low, to a very narrow space, and with only a short
distance of swift water, it makes its plunge twenty feet perpendicular; and then, after a short distance of rapids, dashing against the rocks, moves on in a narrow passage, filled
with rapids and eddies, among volcanic rocks, called the La
Dalies, four miles; and then spreads out into a gentle broad
channel. At the Falls and the La Dalles below, there are
several carrying places, where boats and canoes, as well as
baggage, have to be transported. The geological formation
along this distance is singular. With the exception of a
few high hills and bluffs, the shore and lands around are but
little above the river in the freshet rise; and yet the channel of the river is through the hardest basalt and amygdaloid. Has this channel worn this solid rock formation? If
so, at what time? There is no appearance of the channel
having worn perceptibly deeper, since these rocks, from
their melted state, spread out into their present condition,
which must have taken place centuries and centuries ago.
As I have no confidence in theories founded upon conjec




BOSTON TRADING COMPANY.


137


ture, nor in Indian traditions, I leave the subject for others
to tell us how these things took place. But one thing is true,
the Falls and La Dalles furnish a situation for water power
equal to any in the world. Here also is one of the best lo.
cations for salmon fishing, and where great numbers of In.
dians collect in the season of taking them, which commences
the last of April, or the first of May, and continues a few
months. At the lower part of the La Dalles, I found Capt.
Wyeth, from Boston, with a small company of men going
up the river to Fort Hall. Capt. Wyeth, who is an intelligent and sociable man, had the charge of the business of a
company formed in Boston, for salmon fishing on the Co.
lumbia, and for trade and trapping in the region of the
mountains. The plan of the company was to send a ship
annually around Cape Horn into Columbia river, to bring
out goods for trade, and to take home the salmon and furs
which should be obtained through the year. It was expect.
ed the profits on the salmon would defray all common expenses, and that the profits on the furs would be clear, and
yield a handsome income. But thus far the enterprise has
been attended with many disasters, and the loss of many
lives-several of the men were drowned, and some killed by
Indians.
Here I dismissed my Walla Walla Indians to return, and
Tilki, the first chief of the La Dalles Indians, engaged to
furnish me with a canoe and men to carry me to Fort Vancouver. Encamped with Capt. Wyeth, and obtained from
him a short vocabulary of the Chenook language, to enable
me to do common business with the Indians residing along
on the lower part of this river.
Tuesday, 13th. I left this encampment at nine o'clock
in the forenoon, in the canoe with three men furnished by
13





138


REMARKABLE PHENOMENA.


Tilki and made good progress down the river, which flows
in a wide and gentle current. Many parts of the way, the
river is walled up with high and perpendicular basalt. At
the La Dalles commences a wood country, which becomes
more and more dense as we descend, and more broken with
high hills and precipices. I observed a remarkable phenomenon-trees standing in their natural position in the river,
in many places where the water is twenty feet deep, or much
more, and rising to high, or freshet water mark. which is
fifteen feet above the low water. Above the freshet rise, the
tops of the trees are decayed and gone. I deferred forming
an opinion in regard to the cause, until I should collect more
data. About the middle of the day a south wind began to
blow, and continued to increase until it became necessary
to go on shore and encamp, which we did about four in the
afternoon.
On the 14th, we did not make much progress on account
of wind and rain. Encamped in a cavern undir a large
projecting rock, the upper part of which was formed of basalt, the lower of pudding stone. Although this encamp.
ment was at least six miles above the Cascades, yet the roar
of the water could be distinctly heard. The same phenomenon of trees continued. I paid particular attention to
the condition of the shores of the river and adjacent hills,
to see if any evidence could be discovered of their having
slidden down from the hills by escarpment; but as their
condition was the same where there were no hilis near, I
was led to conjecture, that I should find the river at the
Cascades dammed up with volcanic productions; and I was
induced to believe it would be found to be so, from the fact,
that the river, the whole distance from the La Dalles, is wide
and deep, and moves with a sluggish current.





REMARKABLE SUBSIDENCE.


139


On the 15th, the wind and rain continuing through the
fore part of the day, I did not leave my encampment until
noon, when we set forward and arrived at the Cascades at
two o'clock in the afternoon. The trees, to-day, were still
more numerous, in many places standing in deep water, and
we had to pick our way with the canoe in some parts, as
through a forest. The water of the river is so clear, that
I had an opportunity of examining their position down to
the spreading roots, and found them in the same condition
as when standing in their natural forest. As I approached
the Cascades, instead of finding an embankment formed
from volcanic eruptions, the shores above the falls were low,
and the velocity of the water began to accelerate two-thirds
of a mile above the main rapid. On a full examination, it
is plainly evident that here has been an uncommon subsi.
dence of a tract of land, more than twenty miles in length,
and more than a mile in width. The trees standing in the
water are found mostly towards and near the north shore,
and yet, from the depth of the river and its sluggish move.
ment, I sho,!i conclude the subsidence affected the whole
bed. That the trees are not wholly decayed down to low
water mark, proves that the subsidence is comparatively, of
recent date; and their undisturbed, natural position proves
that it took place in a tranquil manner, not by any tremendous convulsion of nature. The cause lies concealed, but
the fact is plain. That parts of forests may in this way
submerge, is evident from similar facts. The noted one on
the eastern coast of Yorkshire and Lincolnshire, England,
is about fifteen feet below low water mark, extending eastward a considerable distance from the shore, bf which
stumps and roots are seen in their natural position. So
manifest is the evidence of great changes having taken





140


THE CASCADES.


place by volcanic power, in these regions west of the Rocky
Mountains, both by upheaving and subsidence, that we are
led to enquire whether there are not now such agents in operation, and upon such materials, that the valleys shall be
literally exalted, and the mountains be made low, and waters spring up in the deserts.
The Cascades, so called to distinguish them from the
Falls, do not differ materially from them, except in the
wild, romantic scenery around. There is no perpendicular
fall, but the water concentrates, from its wide spread form,
to a very narrow compass, and then rushes with great impetuosity down an almost perpendicular precipice twenty or
thirty feet, and continues in a foaming and whirling descent
most of the way five miles farther, where it meets the tide
waters from the Pacific ocean. Above the falls, in the river,
there are many islands, but none of them are very largesome are only volcanic rocks. The country about the Cascades, and many miles below, is very mountainous, especially on the south side. The volcanic peaks are as diversified
in their shapes, as they are numerous, being conical, den.
ticulated, and needle-pointed, rising from one to fifteen hun.
dred feet. While imagination generally over-draws her pictures, nature here has furnished abundant scope for all her
powers.
A little above the Cascades, upon the north shore, there
is a small village of Chenooks. These Indians are the only
real Flatheads and Nez Perces, or pierced noses, I have
found. They both flatten their heads and pierce their noses.
The flattening of their heads is not so great a deformity as
is generally supposed. From a little above the eyes to the
apex or crown of the head, there is a depression, but not
generally in adult persons very noticeable. The piercing
of the nose is a greater deformity, and is done by inserting





THE PORTAGE.


141


two small tapering white shells, about two inches long,
through the lower part of the cartilaginous division of the
nose. These shells are of the genus dentalium, they inhabit
the Pacific shore, and are an article of traffic among the
natives. I called at this village to obtain men to carry our
canoe by the portage of the Cascades. They wished to engage in trade with me in several articles of small value,
which I declined, informing them that my business was of
a different nature. Whilst detained, the daughter of the
chief, fancifully decked out in ornaments, and in all her
pride and native haughtiness, walked to and fro to exhibit,
to the best advantage, her fine, erect, and stately person.
After considerable delay, I obtained four Indians to carry
the canoe about one hundred rods by the principal rapids,
or falls, for which I gave each five charges of powder and
balls; and an additional reward to one to carry a part of
my baggage a mile and a half past the most dangerous
rapids, to a basin just below another rapid, formed by large
rocks confining the river to a very narrow passage, and
through which it rushes with great impetuosity. My Indians
ran the canoe over this rapid. I was much concerned for
their safety; but they chose to do it. Two years before this
time, the men of the Hudson Bay Company cordelled several batteaux down this rapid-part of the men going in the
boats, and part on the shore cordelling. The rope of one
broke, and the batteau, in spite of the efforts of the men in
it, was hurried out into the surging and whirling waves
among the rocks-capsized, and all were lost.
I walked about four miles, until I had passed all the
rapids of any special danger. About three-fourths of a mile
below the uppermost cascade, following an Indian path, I
came to a pleasant rise of ground, upon which were several
13*





142


INDIAN BURYING PLACES,


houses of a forsaken village, which were both larger and far
better than any I had seen in any Indian country. They
were about sixty feet long, and thirty-five wide, the framework very well constructed and covered with split planks
and cedar bark. A little back of these houses a small beautiful lake spread itself out, on the surface of which some
dozens of wild ducks were enjoying the quietness of its
solitude. As I continued down the Indian path, at no great
distance from the village, I came to several depositories of
their dead. They were built of plank split from balsam fir
and cedar, about eight feet long, six wide, and five high,
and well covered. At one end is what may be called a door,
upon which are paintings of various devices, which do not
appear to be designed for any other purpose than for ornament. Some had painting upon the sides as well as upon
the doors. I had with me two Indians who paid no particular attention to them, more than we should in passing a
burying ground. They pointed me to them, and made a
short, solemn pause, without any actions which would indicate their paying homage to the pictures or any other object.
The number of these depositories I did not ascertain, as
many of them were so far decayed, as hardly to be distinguishable; but of those in good condition there were eight
or ten. Below this we passed several houses of far less
magnitude than those above; and while the floors of those
were on a level with the surface of the ground, these were
sunk about four feet below, and the walls rose only about
three feet above the ground. It would seem that these were
designed for winter habitations, but at this time their occupants were all absent. At the distance of four miles below
the main cataract, the country, on the north side, spreads
out into a level plain, which near the river is a prairie, a





BEAUTIFUL WATERFALL.


143


little distance back covered with dense forests; while on the
south side of the river it is very mountainous.
Toward the lower part of Brant island I re-embarked, and
we proceeded a few miles farther and encamped below Pillar
rock, over against an extraordinary cascade of water which
descends the mountain from the south. Pillar rock is of
basaltic formation, situated on the north side of the river, a
few rods from the shore, on a narrow strip of rich bottom.
land, wholly isolated, rising five hundred feet, on the river
side perpendicular, and on the others nearly so. Upon all,
except the river side, there are very narrow offsets upon
which grow some cedars, and also a very few upon the
highest point. The base in proportion to the height, is
very small, giving the whole the appearance of an enormous
pillar. This is one of the astonishing wonders of volcanic
operations.
The Cascade upon the south side of the river first strikes
our view at an elevation of not less than a thousand feet;
and by several offsets the water descends in a white foaming sheet at an angle of sixty or eighty degrees, presenting
the appearance of a belt laid upon the side of the mountain.
In two places the descent is perpendicular, and the lowest
probably not less than two hundred feet, and before the
stream reaches the bottom, it is dissipated into spray and
disappears, until you see it again collecting itself at the foot
of the mountain, and after winding its way a short distance,
it unites with the Columbia. The whole scene, combining
the ruggedness and wildness of nature's most romantic
forms, with its most magnificent, filled my mind with admi.
ration both of the work and its Author.
On the morning of the 16th, I arose before day, called
my Indians, and as soon as any light appeared, we again





144


CIVILIZATION.


launched out into the broad river in our frail canoe. For
about ten miles, the surrounding country was mountainous,
forming bold shores; after which the mountains recede, and
the river spreads out in some places from one to three miles
wide, and an extensive region around presents the appearance of a rich soil well adapted to agriculture. There are
some fine prairies, but far the greatest part is thickly wooded. In this part of the river are many fertile islands, some
of which are large; the current moves on gently, and the
whole scenery around is fascinating. As I descended towards the Pacific ocean, water fowl, such as geese, swans,
and a very great variety of ducks, began to multiply; also
every now and then seals made their appearance, so that I
became cheered with the increasing exhibitions of animated
nature, greater than I had witnessed since leaving the buffalo country. Unexpectedly, about the middle of the day,
on the north shore in a thick grove of large firs, I saw two
white men with a yoke of oxen drawing logs for sawing.
I hailed them, and enquired of them the distance to Fort
Vancouver. They replied, " only seven miles around yon.
der point, down that prairie." Soon we came to a very
large saw-mill, around which were large piles of lumber and
several cottages. This looked like business upon a much
greater scale than I had expected. I called a short time at
this establishment, where I found several Scotch laborers
belonging to the Hudson Bay Company, with their Indian
families. Although it was then about noon, they offered
me a breakfast of peas and fish, taking it for granted that
men who travel these western regions, eat only when they
can get an opportunity. At two in the afternoon, we arrived at Fort Vancouver, and never did I feel more joyful to
set my feet on shore, where I expected to find a hospitable





PROVIDENCE.


145


people and the comforts of life. Doct. J. McLaughlin, a
chief factor and the superintendent of this fort and of the
business of the Company west of the Rocky Mountains, received me with many expressions of kindness, and invited
me to make his residence my home for the winter, and as
long as it would suit my convenience. Never could such
an invitation be more thankfully received.
It was now seven months and two days since I left my
home, and during that time, excepting a few delays, I had
been constantly journeying, and the fifty-six last days, with
Indians only. I felt that I had great reason for gratitude to
God for his merciful providences toward me, in defending
and so providing for me, that I had not actually suffered a
single day for the want of food. For months I had no
bread nor scarcely any vegetables, and I often felt that a
change and a variety would have been agreeable, but in no
instance did I suffer, nor in any case was I brought to the
necessity of eating dog's or horse flesh. In every exigency
God provided something wholesome and palatable.





146


FORT VANCOUVER.


CHAPTER IX.
Description of Fort Vancouver-departure for Fort George and mouth
of the Columbia-mouths of the Multnomah-Wappatoo islandMay Dacre-Coffin Rock-Cowalitz river-Indian friendship-Pacific ocean-Gray's bay-Astoria.
FoRT Vancouver is situated on the north side of the Columbia river, about sixty rods from the shore, upon a prairie
of some few hundred acres, surrounded with dense woods.
The country around, for a great distance, is generally level
and of good soil, covered with heavy forests, excepting some
prairies interspersed, and presents a pleasing aspect. It is
in north latitude 450 37', and longitude 122~ 50', west from
Greenwich-one hundred miles from    the Pacific ocean.
The enclosure is strongly stoccaded, thirty-seven rods long,
and eighteen rods wide, facing the south. There are about
one hundred white persons belonging to this establishment,
and an Indian population of three hundred in a small compass contiguous.  There are eight substantial buildings
within the enclosure, and a great number of small ones
without.
October 17th. After a night's rest in this fort, I left for
Fort George, situated ninety-one miles below, near the confluence of the Columbia with the Pacific, known in the
United States by the name of Astoria. I took this early
departure that I might visit the lower part of the river and
the sea coast, and return before the rainy season should
commence; and also to avail myself of a passage in the
May Dacre, of Boston, Capt. Lambert, a brig belonging to





WAPPATOO ISLAND.


147


Capt. Wyeth and Company, which was lying twenty-three
miles below, at the lowest mouth of the Multnomah. Mr.
J. K. Townsend, an ornithologist from Philadelphia, accompanied me to the brig. Our canoe was large and propelled
by Sandwich Islanders, of whom there are many in this
country, who have come here as sailors and laborers. Five
miles below the fort, we passed the main branch of the Multnomah. It is a large river, coming from the south, and is
divided by islands into four branches, at its confluence with
the Columbia. Here commences the Witppatoo island, so
called from a nutritive root found in the small lakes in the
interior, which is much sought for by Indians as an article
of food. This island is about eighteen miles long, and five
miles wide, formed by a part of the Multnomah, branching
off about six miles up the main river, running in a westerly
and north-westerly direction, and again uniting with the
Columbia eighteen miles below the main branch.  The
branch which flows around and forms the island, is about
fifteen rods wide, and of sufficient depth for small shipping
most of the year. It was upon this island the Multnomah
Indians formerly resided, but they have become as a tribe,
extinct. The land is very fertile, and most of it sufficiently
high to be free from injury by the June freshet. Some parts
of it are prairie, but the greatest part is well wooded with
oak, ash, balsam fir, and the species of poplar often called
balm of Gilead, and by most travelers, cotton-wood. At
the south-west of this island, there is a range of mountains
which render a space of country broken, but beyond these,
it is said by hunters, that there is an extensive valley well
adapted to agriculture.
We arrived at the landing place of the May Dacre, at
five o'clock in the afternoon, and were politely received on





148


HALLEY'S COMET.


board by Capt. Lambert. The brig was moored alongside
a natural wharf of basalt.
Sabbath, October 18th. Part of the day I retired to a
small prairie back from the river, to be free from the noise
of labor in which the men were engaged in preparing for
their voyage; and part of it I passed in the state room
which was assigned me. There is much reason to lament
the entire disregard manifested by many towards God's
holy sabbath. His justice will not always be deferred.
Those, who will not submit to divine authority, must reap
the fruit of their disobedience. None can slight and abuse
the mercy of God with impunity.
Monday, 19th. The brig fell down the river with the
tide, about three miles, but for the want of wind anchored.
In the afternoon I went on shore for exercise, taking with
me a kanaka, that is, a Sandwich islander, for assistance in
any danger. I made a long excursion through woods and
over prairies, and found the country pleasant and fertile.
The grass on the prairies was green, and might furnish sub.
sistence for herds of cattle. When will this immensely extended and fertile country be brought under cultivation, and
be filled with an industrious population? From time immemorial, the natives have not stretched forth a hand to till
the ground, nor made an effort for the earth to yield a single article of produce, more than what springs up spontaneously; nor will they, until their minds are enlightened by
divine truth. No philanthropist, who is not under the influence of Christian principles, will ever engage in the selfdenying work of enlightening their minds, and arousing
them from their indolence. As on our frontiers, so on these
western shores, the work of destruction, introduced by those
who would be called the friends of man, is going forward.





DEER ISLAND-COFFIN ROCK.


149


The Indians in this lower country, that is, below the Cas.
cades, are only the remnants of once numerous and powerful nations.
The evening was clear and pleasant, which gave us an
opportunity to see the comet which was observed by Hal.
ley in the year 1682, and which was seen again in 1759,
and now in 1835, proving its time of revolution to be about
seventy-six and a half years. Its train of light was very
perceptible and of about twelve degrees in length.
We had a favourable wind on the 20th, which, with the
current of the river, enabled us to make good progress on
our way. Among the many islands, with which the lower
part of this river abounds, Deer island, thirty-three miles
below Fort Vancouver, is worthy of notice. It is large, and
while it is sufficiently wooded along the shores, the interior
is chiefly a prairie covered with an exuberant growth of
grass and vines of different kinds, excepting the grape, of
which there is none west of the Rocky Mountains of natur.
al growth. In the interior of this island there are several
small lakes, the resort of swans, geese and ducks. This
island was formerly the residence of many Indians, but they
are gone, and nothing is to be seen except the remains of a
large village.
Among some interesting islands of basalt, there is one
called Coffin Rock, twenty-three miles below Deer island,
situated in the middle of the river, rising ten or fifteen feet
above high freshet water. It is almost entirely covered
with canoes, in which the dead are deposited, which circum.
stance gives it its name. In the section of country from
Walppatoo island to the Pacific ocean, the Indians, instead
of committing their dead to the earth, deposit them in ca.
noes, and these are placed in such situations as are most
14





150  tCAr. LAMBERT AND THE SKILLOOTS CHIEF.
secure from beasts of prey; upon such precipices as this
island, upon branches of trees, or upon scaffolds made for the
purpose. The bodies of the dead are covered with mats,
and split planks are placed over them. The head of the canoe is a little raised, and at the foot there is a hole made for
water to escape.
A few miles below Coffin island, the Cowalitz, a river of
considerable magnitude coming from the north-east, flows
into the Columbia, which is about thirty rods wide, deep,
and navigable for boats a very considerable distance. The
country up this river is said to equal, in richness of soil,
any part of the Oregon Territory, and to be so diversified
with woods and prairies, that the farmer could at once reap
the fruits of his labor.
We anchored for the night, on account of numerous sandbars and windings of the navigable channel. The evening
was cloudy, and there was the appearance of a gathering
storm; but we were so surrounded with high hills, that the
situation was considered safe.
The wind, on the 21st, was light, which rendered our pro.
gress slow. This section of the country is mountainous,
the ranges running from the south-east to the north-west,
and covered with a very dense and heavy growth of wood,
mostly fir and oak. A chief of the Skilloots with a few of
his people came on board. He was very talkative and sport.
ive. When he was about to leave, he told Capt. L. that as
they had been good friends, and were now about to separate,
he wished a present. Capt. L. told his steward to give
him a shirt. The chief took it and put it on, and then said
"how much better would a new pair of pantaloons look with
this shirt." The captain ordered him the article asked for.
Now said the chief, "a vest would become me, and increase





PILLAR ROCK.


151


my influence with my people." This was also given. Then
he added, " well, Tie*, I suppose we shall not see each other
again, can you see me go away without a clean blanket,
which would make me a full dress." The captain answered, " go about your business; for there is no end to your
asking so long as I continue to give."  Then the chief
brought forward a little son, and said, " he is a good boy;
will you not make him a present?" Captain L. gave him a
few small articles, and they went away rejoicing more over
the presents which they had received, than sorrowing for the
departure of the May Dacre. We passed to-day Pillar rock,
which stands isolated more than a half mile from the north
shore, composed of basalt, and is about forty feet high and
fifteen in diameter; and anchored a few miles below.
On the morning of the 22d, we waited for a favorable
tide until nine o'clock, when we got under way with a brisk
wind from the east. Here the river begins to spread out
into a bay, but owing to many shoals, the navigation is
difficult. We ran aground, but the increase of the tide set
us afloat again, and soon the great Pacific ocean opened to
our view. This boundary of the " far west" was to me an
object of great interest; and when I looked upon the dark
rolling waves, and reflected upon the vast expanse of five
thousand miles, without an intervening island until you ar.
rive at the Japan coast, a stretch of thought was required,
like contemplating infinity, which can measure only by
succession its expansion and sublimity. Like the vanish.
ing lines of prospect, so is contemplation lost in this extent
of ocean.


"* Chief, or gentleman.





152                   ASTORIA.
As we proceeded on our way, we left Gray's bay at the
right, extending inland to the north some few miles, in which
on a voyage of discovery, the ship Columbia anchored, and
from whose commander the bay took its name. Nearly opposite we passed Tongue Point, which extends about two
miles into the bay or river, from the south. It is considerably elevated, rocky, and covered with woods. Soon after
this, Astoria was announced.  My curiosity was excited.
I looked, but could not discover what to all on board was so
plainly seen-I blamed my powers of vision-and reluctantly asked the captain, where is Astoria? "Why," he
replied, "right down there-that is Astoria." I saw two
log cabins, and said within myself, is that "the far-famed
New York of the west?"





FORT GEORGE.


153


CHAPTER X.
Description of Fort George-mouth of the Columbia-dangerous bar
-mountainous coast-varieties of timber-good location for a missionary station-continued rains-dense forests-excursion in a
canoe down the bay-view of the coast-disasters at the entrance
of the Columbia-ship William and Anne-ship Isabella-Tonquin
-Japanese junk-reflections-water fowl-return to Fort Vancouver-the regard Indians show the dead-Indian kindness.
WHEN we arrived in the small bay, upon which Fort
George (Astoria) is situated, Capt. L. manned a boat to
take me on shore, in which he also embarked to pay his
respects to the governor, who had the politeness to meet us
at the landing, and invited us, with hearty welcome, to his
dwelling. After having interchanged the customary salu.
tations and made a short stay, the captain re-embarked and
made his way for Cape Disappointment; and the wind and
tide being favorable, he passed the dangerous bar without
any delay, and shaped his course for Boston. Fort George
is situated on the south side of the bay, ten miles from Cape
Disappointment, is without any fortifications, has only two
small buildings made of hewed logs; about two acres cleared, a part of which is cultivated with potatoes and garden
vegetables. It is occupied by two white men of the Hudson Bay Company, for the purpose of trade with the few
remaining Indians, who reside about these shores. Though
this is the present condition of Astoria, yet the time must
come, when at the mouth of this noble river there will be a
place of business, and especially may this be expected, as
14*





154


MOUTH OF THE COLUMBIA.


this bay affords the only good harbor for a long distance on
this coast. I should think the north side of the bay, a little
above the cape, adjoining what is called Baker's bay, would
be the most desirable location for a place of business, as
that is the safest place for ships to ride at anchor. On that
side of the Columbia bay, the country is more open and
pleasant for a commercial town. On the south side, where
Astoria was located, the mountains or high hills come down
very near the shore, are rocky and precipitous, preventing
a southern prospect, and in the short winter days of a
north latitude of046~ 17' they almost exclude the sun.
A difficulty, of such a nature as is not easily overcome,
exists in regard to the navigation of this river, which is
the sand-bar at its entrance. It is about five miles across
the bar from Cape Disappointment out to sea. In no part
of that distance is the water upon the bar over eight fathoms deep, and in one place only five, and the channel only
about half a mile wide. And so wide and open is the ocean,
that there is always a heavy swell, and when the wind is
above a gentle breeze, there are breakers quite across the
bar, and there is no passing it except when the wind and
tide are both very favorable. Without the bar there is no
anchorage, and there have been instances, in the winter
season, of ships laying off and on, thirty days, waiting for
an opportunity to pass; and a good pilot is always needed.
Perhaps there have been more lives lost here, in proportion
to the number of those who have entered this river, than in
entering almost any other harbor in the world. But the
calamities have been less frequent for some years past, than
formerly; and should a steam.boat be stationed at the cape,
to tow vessels over, when business shall be sufficiently multiplied to warrant the expense, the delays and dangers would
be greatly diminished.





Oversized
FoldoutUnable
to Scan










VARIETIES OF TIMBER.


155


The main bay is four miles wide at the mouth of the river,
between Cape Disappointment and Point Adams; extends
sixteen miles up the river; is nine miles wide between Chenook bay on the north and Youngs' bay on the south; and
seven wide between Fort George and Chenook point. It is
filled with many sand-bars, and one, which is called Sand
island, a little within the capes, seen only when the tide is
down, is dangerous to ships when not in the charge of skilful pilots.
The section of country about the sea coast is very rough
and mountainous, and covered with the most heavy and
dense forest of any part of America of which I have any
knowledge. The trees are almost all of the genus pinus,
but I saw none of the species commonly called pine, any
where below the Cascades. The balsam fir, of which there
are three species, constitute the greatest part of the forest
trees. White cedar, spruce, hemloc, and yew, are interspersed. Three species of oak, of which the white is far
the most common, prevail in small sections; and in some
low bottom-lands, the species of poplar, called the balm of
Gilead, or bitter cotton wood, predominates. The balsam
fir grows very large; not unfrequently four and six feet in
diameter and two hundred feet high. I measured one which
was eight feet in diameter, and about two hundred and fifty
feet high. As I do not here intend to enter upon the den.
drology of this country, I pass farther remarks upon this
subject for the present.
There are some tracts of good land, which might easily
be brought under cultivation, in different parts of this mountainous and iron bound coast. One about Youngs' bay, extending down to and about Point Adams. This would be a
favorable location for a missionary station, where access





156


LAND EXCURSION.


could be had to the Clatsop and Killamook Indians, who are
said to be numerous.
At this season of the year, there are but few Indians who
reside about this trading post, finding it more for their comfort to retire into the forests during the rainy season of the
winter, locating themselves upon small prairies along rivers
and streams, where fuel is easily obtained, and where some
game is found to add to their winter's stock of provisions.
During my continuance in this place it was my inten.
tion to cross the bay over to Chenook point, and from thence
down to Cape Disappointment, which it is said affords a
very extensive and interesting prospect. But from day to
day it rained, and the high winds created such a sea in the
whole bay, that it was not safe to attempt the passage.
On the 24thf, the wind was high, and the weather very
uncomfortable, and in the afternoon the storm increased
accompanied with snow, which, however, melted as fast as
as it fell. The sea fowl appeared to be alarmed by the
severity of so early and unexpected a storm of snow, and
came in from the ocean in great numbers, flying and
screaming, as if in search of a safe retreat.
The storm being somewhat moderated, on the 26th, Mr.
Dunn, the superintendent of the fort, and myself, took our
rifles to go back into the woods to hunt deer for exercise.
But so dense was the forest, so filled and interwoven with
various vines and shrubbery, that it was next to impossible
to make any progress, and we did not penetrate the woods
more than a mile, before we gave up the object, and turned
our course back, but our return, with diligent efforts, occupied some hours. If a luxuriant growth of trees and shrub.
bery is indicative of a rich soil, then no part of the world
can surpass the country about these shores.





A WATER EXCURSION.


157


The morning of the 27th was pleasant and inviting for a
water excursion; but on account of sudden changes of
weather, which are common at this season of the year, I
did not think it best to cross the wide bay, but took four Che.
nook Indians, and a half breed named Thos. Pish Kiplin who
could speak English, and went in a large canoe down to
Clatsop and Point Adams, nine miles from the fort. There
was a gentle wind from the east, which favored hoisting a
small sail. This gave us a pleasant sail until it increased
to the rate of eight miles an hour; and by this time the
waves had become so high, and the white caps were so nu.
merous, that to one not acquainted with nautical adventures, the danger in a canoe appeared great. We could do
nothing, except run before the wind, and when we were upon
the top of one wave, it seemed the next plunge would be
fatal. Fears were of no use in this situation, and I therefore kept up such conversation as was calculated to suppress
any which might arise in the minds of the men. It was in.
teresting to see how the Indians would take the waves with
their paddles so as to favor the safety of the canoe. But
our rapid progress soon brought us to the shore near Point
Adams.   Here a new and unexpected difficulty presented
itself, and this was the almost utter impracticability of effecting a landing in the high surf; but my skilful mariners watched an opportunity to shoot the canoe forward as
far as possible on a flowing wave, and as soon as it broke,
they leaped into the water and seized the canoe and light.
ened it over the returning surge, and drew it up beyond the
reach of the waves.  This management was an ocular demonstration of the skill of Indians on dangerous seas. I
took Kiplin with me and walked several miles on the hard
and smooth sandy beach, so far around to the south, that I





158


LOSS OF THE WILLIAM AND ANNE.


had a view of the coast north and south, as far as the eye
could reach. High, and in most parts perpendicular, basaltic rocks lined the shores. Who but that Being, who
sets bounds to the sea, and has said to the proud waves,
hitherto shalt thou come and no farther, reared these volcanic walls? This vast expanse of ocean and these stu.
pendous works of God naturally fill the mind with awe.
In returning, I walked several miles, beyond the place
where we landed, along the shores toward Youngs' bay, and
went on board the brig Lama, Captain McNiel, which was
on its way up to the fort. In my excursion about Clatsop
and Point Adams, I saw several canoes containing the dead,
deposited as I have already described.
I have mentioned the bar at the mouth of the Columbia,
and Sand island, as dangerous to those who were not well
acquainted with the entrance into this river. In the year
1828, the ship William and Anne was cast away a little
within the bar. All on board, twenty.six in number, were
lost, and it could not be ascertained what were the circum.
stances of the lamentable catastrophe, as no one was left to
tell the story. There were conjectures that after the ship
had run aground, the Indians, for the sake of plunder, killed
the crew. This is only conjecture; but it is very strange,
as they were not far from the shore, and the beach was
sandy, that none escaped. The Indians carried off and se.
creted whatever of the goods they could find. The men of
the Hudson Bay Company sent to the chiefs to deliver up
what they had taken away. They sent Dr. McLaughlin at
Fort Vancouver two small articles of no value. Dr. M.
with an armed force went down to the Chenooks and de.
manded a surrender of the goods. The chief, with his war.
riors, put himself in the attitude of resistance, and fired





ISSABELLA AND TONQUIN.


159


upon the men of the Hudson Bay Company. They re.
turned the fire with a swivel, not to injure them, but to let
them know with what force they had to contend, if they
persisted in their resistance. On this the Indians all fled
into the woods.  The Doctor with his men landed and
searched for the goods, many of which they found. Whilst
they were searching, the chief was seen skulking and drawing near-and cocked his gun, but before he had time to
fire, one of the white men shot him down. None besides
were hurt. This was done, as the men of the Hudson Bay
Company say, not so much for saving the value of the pro.
perty, as to teach the Indians not to expect profit from such
disasters, and to take away temptation to murder white men
for the sake of plunder.
On the 23d of May, 1830, the ship Isabella was cast away
upon a sand-bar projecting from Sand island, which is a
little within the capes. As soon as she struck, the men all
deserted her, and without stopping at Fort George, made
their way to Fort Vancouver. It is thought, that if they
had remained on board and waited the tide, she might have
been saved. The cargo was mostly saved.
In 1811, the Tonquin, sent out from New York by Mr.
Astor, to form a fur trading establishment at or near the
mouth of this river, lost eight men in crossing the bar.
The calamity resulted from the ignorance of Captain Thorn
of the dangers, and his great want of prudence.
About thirty miles south of this river, are the remains of a
ship sunk not far from the shore. It is not known by whom
she was owned, nor from what part of the world she came,
nor when cast away. The Indians frequently get bees-wax
from her. It is not improbable that she was from some
part of Asia.





160


JAPANESE.


A Japanese junk was cast away, fifteen miles south of
Cape Flattery in March, 1833. Out of seventeen men only
three were saved. In the following May, Captain McNeil
of the Lama brought the three survivors to Fort Vancouver,
where they were kindly treated by the gentlemen of the
Hudson Bay Company, and in the following October, were
sent in one of their'ships to England, to be forwarded to
their own country and home.* This junk was loaded with
rich China ware, cotton cloths, and rice. In the same year
eleven Japanese, in distress, were drifted in a junk to Oahu,
Sandwich islands. It is not a very uncommon thing, that
junks and other craft have been found by whale ships in the
great Pacific ocean, in a state of starvation, without the
nautical instruments and skill of mariners necessary to
enable them to find their way to any port of safety. Undoubtedly many are entirely lost, while others drift to unknown shores.
May not such facts throw light upon the original peopling
of America, which has engaged the attention of men for a
long period. While one man demonstrates to his own satis.
faction, that the first inhabitants of this continent must have
crossed from the north-east part of Asia, because of the re* From documents which have come to hand, since the publication
of the first edition of this work, I have been led to admire the wisdom
of Providence, as developed in the case of these three Japanese. On
their way to their country, they were brought to Macao. It is a well
known fact that the missionaries have been endeavoring to gain access to the island of Japan, and to obtain the means of acquiring the
language of the inhabitants. These three Japanese, having been so
long in foreign,countries, were afraid to go to their own country,
without permission from their government, and therefore Mr. Gutz.
laff was enabled to obtain them as teachers, and to assist him in trans.
lating the Scriptures, and other tracts, for distribution among the
otherwise inaccessible population of Japan, and thus to impart to
them the riches of the Gosuel of Jesus Christ.





DIFFERENT THEORIES.


161


semblance of the people to each other, and the ease with
which the strait is passed in canoes; another, with no less
certainty, proves from the diversity of languages, from the
impossibility of tracing their origin, and from other reasons,
that an equinoctial union of Africa and America must have
existed in some age of the world since the universal deluge,
and that some violent convulsion of nature has since dissever.
ed them. Others would confine the aborigines of this continent to the descendants of the Jews, and industriously trace
in their customs, the ancient worship and rites of God's peculiar people. Some see in them the confirmation of their
favorite theory, that human institutions and states, like human and vegetable nature, have their birth, growth, maturity, and decay; and believe that, as it respects these tribes,
these tendencies have already, for centuries, been in operation to produce their extinction. But from whatever single
or numerical causes they have had their origin, their own
traditions, and the histories of more civilized nations seem
unable to inform us. Physical causes alone, we think, are
adequate to account for the many features of resemblance
which they possess, even though they might, at different and
distant periods of time have been drifted, or in any other
manner found their way, from remote countries.
About this time of the year, water fowl of various genera
and species begin to visit the bays and lagoons, and as the
season advances, they gradually proceed into the interior of
the country, and the rivers and lakes abound with them.Geese, swans, ducks, and gulls, wing their way over us, and
their screams, particularly those of the swans, are at times
almost deafening. The swan is not of the species common in
the United States. It is the Bewick's swan, but is characterized by the same unsullied plumage; its attitudes and mo.
15





162


RETURN TO FORT VANCOUVER.


tions, while sailing over its liquid element, are equally grace.
ful, and its voice even louder and more sonorous. Of the
geese there are four kinds; the white, white fronted, the
Canada, and Hutchins. Of the ducks, there are the black
or surf duck, the canvass-back, the blue-bill, the long-tail.
ed, the harlequin, the pin.tail, and the golden-eyed. The
number of these water fowl is immense, and may be seen
on the wing, swimming upon the waters, or searching for
their food along the shores. They constitute a large item
of Indian living and trade, and find a conspicuous place up.
on the tables of the gentlemen engaged in the fur business.
Wednesday, October 28th. I took passage on board a
canoe, going on an express from the Lama, recently arrived
from a northern voyage to and about Queen Charlotte's
island, to Fort Vancouver. The canoe was large, carrying
about fifteen hundred weight including men and baggage,
manned by three white men and three Indians. The day
was more pleasant than any we had had for many past,
which was a favorable circumstance for passing through the
bay, and around Tongue Point, where the current was so
strong that it required the full exertion of the men to double
it. Ten miles further we passed Pillar Rock, a few miles
above which we encamped on the north side, where the moun.
tains came down so close to the shore, that we hardly found
room to pitch my tent above high tide water. The men
made a large fire, which was cheering and comfortable, and
the supper which they prepared was eaten with a keener
appetite than many a one amidst all the appliances of wealth
and luxury.
On the 29th, we arose before day, and were willing to
take an early departure fiom a place where tide and mountains disputed the territory. By diligently pursuing our





REGARD FOR TIE DEAD.


163


way until eight in the evening, we made forty-five miles,
which was a great day's work in going up the river against
the current, which is strong when the tide is setting out. I
noticed on my return a singular rocky point on the north
shore, a short distance below the Cowalitz, rising nearly
perpendicular about one hundred feet, separated from the
adjacent high hills, and very much in the form of Coffin
Rock. It was covered with canoes containing the dead.
These depositories are held in great veneration by the Indians. They are not chosen for convenience, but for security against ravenous beasts; and are often examined by
the friends of the deceased, to see if the bones of their dead
repose in undisturbed quiet. And such is their watchful
care, that the anatomist could rarely make depredations
without detection, or with impunity. And if they have
such regard for the dead, are they without affection for their
living relatives and friends? Are they " callous to all the
passions but rage?" Are they " steeled against sympathy
and feeling?" And have they no happiness except what
"exists in the visionary dreaming of those, who never contemplated their actual condition?"  Have those, who charge
upon the Indian character " sullen gloom, want of curiosity
and surprise at what is new or striking," had extensive personal acquaintance with many different Indian nations and
tribes? and have they gained their familiar friendship and
confidence? I am firm in the belief, that the character of
unabused and uncontaminated Indians will not lose in comparison with any other nation that can be named; and the
only material difference between man and man, is produced
by the imbibed principles of the Christian religion.
Wishing to avail ourselves of calm weather and a favorable moon, we kept on our way in the evening until thick




164


INDIAN KINDNESS.


ening clouds and descending rain admonished us of the
necessity of finding an encamping place; and while doing
this, we ran upon a log, which came very near upsetting us
in deep water. But by two men getting out upon the log
and lifting the canoe, with much exertion we got off safely.
After passing round a point we saw a light on the north
shore, to which we directed our course and landed, where
we found a small company of Indians encamped under a
large projecting rock, giving shelter from the storm. They
kindly shared their accommodations with us, and my tent
was pitched under the concavity of the rocks; and mats,
skins, and blankets upon small stones, made me a comfortable bed. A good fire and refreshing supper obliviscited the
labors of the day and dangers of the evening.
Arose on the 30th before day, and although the morning
was rainy, yet it was sufficiently calm for the express to
prosecute their voyage. I so managed my mats and skins
as to shield myself and baggage from the rain; but the men
whose business it was to propel the canoe, were exposed to
the storm; and after a few hours' labor and exposure, we
arrived at the place where the May Dacre had made her
harbor, near where the southern section of the Willamette
discharges its waters into the Columbia. We brought our
canoe into a small bay indented in the basaltic rocks, and
drew it so far upon the shore, that it was thought safe without any other security; and all hastened to kindle a fire in
a thatched building, which was constructed by some Kana.
kas for the accommodation of the May Dacre. This shelter was very desirable to protect us from the storm, and to
give the men an opportunity to dry their clothes. Whilst
we were preparing and eating our breakfast, the flowing
tide, which swells the river and slackens the current, but





ARRIVAL AT VANCOUVER.


165


does not stop it, took our canoe from its moorings, and
drifted it a considerable distance down the river. Some
Indians whose residence was far up the Cowalitz, and who
were descending the river in their canoes saw it, and returned with it before we knew it was gone. This act proved
them to be susceptible of kindness, and increased my confi.
dence in their integrity. It was of too much importance to
go unrewarded. The canoe contained valuable baggage,
and we should have been left without any means of going
on our way. We could not have crossed the Willamette
nor Columbia river, and if this had been accomplished, still
to have attempted a return by land would have been an almost hopeless undertaking, as the forest had an undergrowth
which rendered it quite impassable. The Indians are accustomed so much to travel in canoes, that even the poor
accommodation of a trail was not to be found here, and we
should have been compelled to dispute every inch of the
way with our hatchets. Before the middle of the day, the
storm abated, and the remainder of our way to Fort Vancouver was pleasant, at which place we arrived before evening. We were less than three days in accomplishing the
passage from one fort to the other, and these were the only
three calm days for a long time before and after.


15*





166


WINTER QUARTERS.


CHAPTER XI.
Review of journeyings-school-journey up the Willamctte-walk
upon the pebbly shore-falls-settlement on the Willamettc-Methodist mission---epidemic-voyage down the river-hospitality of
Wanaxka-construction of his house-Fort William on the Wappa.
too island-astonishing thirst for ardent spirits-return to Fort Vancouver.
HERE, by the kind invitation of Dr. McLaughlin, and
welcomed by the other gentlemen of the Hudson Bay Company, I took up my residence for the winter; intending to
make such excursions as the season may admit and the
object of my tour may demand. As this is the principal
trading post of the company, west of the Rocky Mountains,
it may be expected, that many Indians from different parts
of the country for considerable distance around, may be
seen here during winter, and more information obtained of
their character and condition than in any other course I
could pursue.  Here also traders from different stations
west of the mountains will come in for new supplies, of
whose personal acquaintance with Indians I may avail myself.
Sabbath, November 1st. By invitation, I preached to a
congregation of those belonging to this establishment who
understand English. Many of the laborers are French Canadians, who are Roman Catholics, and understand only the
French language.
This trading post presents an important field of labor;
for if a Christian influence can be exerted here, it may be





REVIEW OF JOURNEYINGS.


167


of incalculable benefit to the surrounding Indian population.
Let a branch of Christ's kingdom be established here, with
its concomitant expansive benevolence exerted and diffused,
then this place would be a centre, from which divine light
would shine out, and illumine this region of darkness. This
is an object of so much importance, that all my powers, and
energies, and time, must be employed for its accomplish.
ment; so that I do not feel that I have a winter of idle confinement before me.
Monday, 2d. In taking a review of my journeyings since
I left my home, I can say, though long in time and distance,
yet they have been pleasant and full of interest. So diversified has been the country through which I have passed, and
so varied the incidents, and so few real hardships, that the
time and distance have both appeared short. Although this
mission was thought to be one which would probably be attended with as great, if not greater dangers and deprivations
than any which have been sent into any part of the world,
yet my sufferings have been so small, and my mercies so
great, that I can say, that if this is taking up the cross let
none be dismayed; for surely Christ's yoke is easy and his
burden light. I had thought much on the prospect of hav.
ing an opportunity to see whether I could " rejoice in suffer.
ings" for the heathen, " and fill up that which is behind of
the afflictions of Christ in my flesh for his body's sake, which
is the church," but the protecting providence of God was so
conspicuous and his mercies so constant, that the opportuni.
ty did not appear to be presented. As to want, I experienc.
ed only enough to teach me more sensibly the meaning of
the petition, "give us this day our daily bread;" and the
truth was comforting, that "( the Lord giveth to all their
meat in due season." I can truly say, " hitherto the Lord
hath helped me."





168


SCHOOL.


I am very agreeably situated in this place. Rooms in
a new house are assigned me, well furnished, and all the at.
tendance which I could wish, with access to as many valua.
ble books as I have time to read; and opportunities to ride
out for exercise, and to see the adjoining country, as I can
desire; and in addition to all these, the society of gentlemen,
enlightened, polished, and sociable.  These comforts and
privileges were not anticipated, and are therefore the more
grateful.
There is a school connected with this establishment for
the benefit of the children of the traders and common labor.
ers, some of whom are orphans whose parents were attached to the Company; and also some Indian children, who are
provided for by the generosity of the resident gentlemen.They are instructed in the common branches of the English
language, such as reading, writing, arithmetic, grammar,
and geography; and together with these, in religion and
morality. The exercises of the school are closed with sing.
ing a hymn; after which, they are taken by their teacher
to a garden assigned them, in which they labor. Finding
them deficient in sacred music, I instructed them in singing,
in which they made good proficiency, and developed excellent voices. Among them was one Indian boy, who had the
most flexible and melodious voice I ever heard.
It is worthy of notice, how little of the Indian complexion
is seen in the half-breed children. Generally they have fair
skin, often flaxen hair and blue eyes. The children of the
school were punctual in their attendance on the three services of the sabbath, and were our choir.
Monday, Nov. 23d. The weather being pleasant, though
generally very rainy at this season of the year, and wish.
ing to explore the country up the Willamette river, I embrac




JOURNEY UP TIE WILLAMETTE.


169


ed an opportunity of going with a Mr Lucier and family,
who were returning in a canoe to their residence about fifty
miles up that river. Doctor McLaughlin furnished and
sent on board a stock of provisions, three or four times more
than I should need, if nothing should occur to delay us, but
such a precaution, in this country, is always wise. We left
Fort Vancouver about one o'clock in the afternoon, and pro.
ceeded five miles down the Columbia to the entrance of the
Multnomah, and about fifteen up the Willamette before we
encamped. The name Multnomah, is given to a small section of this river, from the name of a tribe of Indians who
once resided about six miles on both sides from its confluence
with the Columbia, to the branch which flows down the
southern side of the Wfppatoo island; and above this it is
called the Willamette. The tide sets up this river about
twenty miles, to within a few miles of the falls, and through
this distance the river is wide and deep, affording good na.
vigation for shipping.
The country about the Multnomah, and also some miles
up the Willamette, is low, and much of it is overflowed in
the June freshet; but as we ascend, the banks become high.
er, and are more generally covered with woods. The country around contains fine tracts of rich prairie, sufficiently
interspersed with woods for all the purposes of fuel, fencing,
and lumber.
A chain of mountains running from the south-east to the
north-west, and through which the Columbia river passes
below Deer island, extends along the west shore of this
river for some distance, near and below the falls.
There are probably as many Indians who navigate this
river with their canoes, as any of the rivers in the lower
country; many of whom I had an opportunity of observ




170


FALLS OF THE WILLAMETTE.


ing to-day in their busy pursuits, the strokes of whose pad.
dles broke in upon the general silence. One company overtook us towards evening, and encamped with us upon the
elevated shore on the east side of the river. Owing to the
dampness of the day, and previous rains, we had some difficulty in making a fire, but at length it was accomplished,
and the wood was unsparingly applied. With my tent
pitched before a large fire, under the canopy of wide branching trees, I partook of the stores of my large wicker basket
with as much satisfaction as could be felt in any splendid
mansion. The blaze of dry crackling fir threw brilliancy
around, softened by the dark forest, like the light of the
astral lamp; and the burning balsam perfumed the air.
The latter part of the night, I suffered more with the cold
than at any time in all my journeying, not having taken
with me as many blankets as the season required.
The morning of the 24th was overcast with clouds, and
rendered chilly by a mist settled near the surface of the river, and which collecting in a beautiful frosting upon the surrounding trees, exhibited one of those picturesque fancies,
which works of art may imitate, but which only nature can
perfect. Soon after resuming the labor of the day, we
passed several basaltic islands, some of them of sufficient
magnitude to enclose a few acres, others only rocky points,
between which the current was strong, requiring much effort to make headway. Part of the way from our last encampment to the falls, which was six miles, I walked along
upon the pebbled shore, where I found calcedony, agate, jas.
per, and cornelian of good quality. Two miles below the
falls, there is a large stream which comes in from the south.
east, called Pudding river. Its entrance makes a strong
current, which we found difficult to stem, so that we were





SETTLEMENT ON THE WILLAMETTE.


171


drifted back in spite of all our efforts; but on the second
attempt we succeeded. We arrived at the falls of the Willamette at two o'clock in the afternoon and hired eight
Clough.e.wall.hah Indians to carry the canoe by the falls,
the distance of halfa mile, and proceeded about five miles
farther before evening. These falls with the scenery around
have much to charm and interest. The river above spreads
out into a wide, deep basin, and runs slowly and smoothly
until within a half mile of the falls, when its velocity in.
creases, its width diminishes, eddies are formed in which the
water turns back as if loth to make the plunge, but is
forced forward by the water in the rear, and when still
nearer it breaks upon the volcanic rocks scattered across
the channel, and then as if resigned to its fate, smooths its
agitated surges, and precipitates down an almost perpendi.
cular of twenty-five feet, presenting a somewhat whitened
column. It was a pleasant day, and the rising mist formed
in the rays of the sun a beautiful bow; and the grass about
the falls, irrigated by the descending mist, was in fresh
green. The rocks over which the water falls, and along
the adjacent shores, are amygdaloid and basalt. The opportunities here for water power are equal to any that can
be named. There cannot be a better situation for a factory
village than on the east side of the river, where a dry, wide.
spread level extends some distance, and the basaltic shores
form natural wharves for shipping. The whole country
around, particularly the east side, is pleasant and fertile.
And can the period be far distant, when there will be here a
busy population? I could hardly persuade myself that this
river had for many thousand years, poured its waters con.
stantly down these falls without having facilitated the labor
of man. Absorbed in these contemplations, I took out my





172     FINE COUNTRY-METHODIST MISSION.


watch to see if it was not the hour for the ringing of the
bells. It was two o'clock, and all was still, except the roar
of the falling water. I called to recollection, that in the
year 1809 I stood by the falls of Genesee river, and all was
still except the roar of the cataract. But it is not so now;
for Rochester stands where I then stood.
Wednesday, 25th. As soon as the day dawned, we went
on board the canoe and pursued our way up the river, which
for thirty miles runs from a westerly direction, and at half
past one, we arrived at McKey's settlement. This and
Jarvis' settlement, twelve miles above, contain about twenty
families. The men are mostly Canadian Frenchmen with
Indian wives. There are a very few Americans. The
Frenchmen were laborers belonging to the Hudson Bay
Company, but have left that service, and having families
they have commenced farming in this fertile section of coun.
try, which is the best of the Oregon Territory that I have
as yet seen. It is well diversified with woods and prairies,
the soil is rich and sufficiently dry for cultivation, and
at the same time well watered with small streams and springs.
These hunters, recently turned to farmers, cultivate the most
common useful productions-wheat of the first quality to as
great extent as their wants require. A grist mill is just
finished which adds to their comforts. They have a com.
mon school in each settlement instructed by American
young men who are competent to their business.
An opinion pretty extensively prevails, that an American
colony is located somewhere in this Territory, but these two
settlements are the only farming establishments which exist
here, if we except those connected with the trading posts of
the Hudson Bay Company. The attempt which was made
some few years since by a company of men from the United





FINE COUNTRY-METIIODIST MISSION.


173


States, was an entire failure, and only a few individuals of
whom 1 obtained any knowledge, have found their way back
to the States.
The forest trees are mostly oak and fir, the latter growing
remarkably tall. The misletoe, attached to the body and
large branches of the oak, is very common. Beautiful dark
green bunches of this plant, seen upon the leafless trees of
winter, excites admiration that its verdure should continue,
when the trees, from which it derives its life and support,
are not able to sustain their own foliage.
I rode, on Thursday the 26th, twelve miles to the upper
settlement, and was delighted with the country. For rich.
ness of soil and other local advantages, I should not know
where to find a spot in the valley of the Mississippi superior
to this. I saw on the way a large number of horses, lately
brought from California, fattening upon the green luxuriant
grass of the prairies.
Near this upper settlement, a short distance farther up the
river, the Methodist church of the United States, have estab.
lished a mission among the Calapooah Indians, of whom
there are but few remaining. Rev. Messrs. Jason Lee and
Daniel Lee are the ordained missionaries, and Mr. Shepard
teacher.
Their principal mode of labor, for the present, is by
means of schools. They have at this time fourteen Indian
children in their school, supported in their family, and the
prospect of obtaining others as fast as they can accommodate them. Their facilities for providing for their school
are good, having an opportunity to cultivate as much excellent land as they wish, and to raise the necessaries of
life in great abundance, with little more labor than what the
scholars can perform, for their support. The missionaries
16





174


EPIDEMIC.


have an additional opportunity of usefulness, which is to
establish a Christian influence among the people of these
infant settlements. Mr. J. Lee preaches to them on the
sabbath, and they have a very interesting sabbath school
among the half-breed children. These children generally
have fair complexions, active minds, and make a fine appearance. The prospect is, that this mission may lay a
foundation for extensive usefulness. There is as yet one
important desideratum-these missionaries have no wives.
Christian white women are very much needed to exert their
influence over Indian females. The female character must
be elevated, and until this is done but little is accomplished;
and females can have access to, and influence over, females
in many departments of instruction, to much better advantage than men. And the model, which is furnished by an
intelligent and pious family circle, is that kind of practical
instruction, whether at home or abroad, which never fails to
recommend the gospel.
At the time of my continuance in this place, an epidemic
prevailed among the Indians, of which several persons died.
In some respects it was singular. The subjects of the complaint were attacked with a severe pain in the ear almost instantaneously, which soon spread through the whole head,
with great heat in the part affected; at the same time the
pulse became very feeble and not very frequent-soon the
extremities became cold, and a general torpor spread
through the whole system, except the head-soon they were
senseless, and in a short period died. In some cases the
attack was less severe, and the patient lingered, and after
some days convalesced, or continued to sink until death closed
his earthly existence.
Friday, Nov. 27th. I rode out with Mr. J. Lee several





HOSPITALITY OF WANAXKA.


175


miles south to see more of the country. The same rich,
black soil continued, furnishing nutritive grass in abund.
ance; and also the same diversity of wood and prairie.This valley is very wide east and west, generally about fifty
miles; and far more extended, north and south.
Towards evening, we attended the funeral of an Indian
boy, who belonged to the school, and who died last night
with the epidemic. Most of the children of the school and
sabbath school attended, and conducted with propriety.
On Saturday I returned to McKey's settlement, to fulfil
an appointment to preach to the inhabitants on the sabbath.
I stopped with Mr. Edwards who is temporarily attached to
the mission, but now teaching school in this settlement.
Almost the whole of the inhabitants of this settlement
assembled on the sabbath, and made a very decent congre.
gation; but not more than half could understand English.
After service I was called to see a Mr. Carthre, who was
taken severely with the epidemic. I bled him, which gave
him immediate relief, and applied a blister, and as I after.
ward learned, he recovered.
Early on Monday morning, the 30th, McKey furnished
me with two young Indians to take me in a canoe to the
falls, where we arrived safely at three o'clock in the afternoon. Here I engaged two Indians belonging to a small
village of the Claugh-e-wall-hah tribe, who have a permanent residence a little below the falls, to take me in a canoe
to Fort Vancouver. Wanaxka, the chief, came up to the
falls, where I was about to encamp alone for the night, and
invited me to share the hospitality of his house. I hesitated what to do, not that I would undervalue his kindness, but
feared such annoyances as might prevent my rest. On the
other hand there was every appearance of a cold, heavy storm,





176


CONSTRUCTION OF HIIS HOUSE.


very little wood near, which I could procure for a fire with
only my hatchet, and I should be alone, exposed to ravenous
wild beasts-the latter consideration, however, I scarcely regarded. But believing it would please the chief, should I
accept his invitation, I went with him to his dwelling, which
was a long permanent building on the west side of the river,
up an elevation of one hundred feet, and near which were
several other buildings of nearly the same dimensions.Besides the family of the chief, there were two other fatmi.
lies in the same building, in sections about twenty feet
apart, separated from each other by mats hung up for partitions. Their houses are built of logs split into thick plank.
These Indians do not sink any part of their buildings below
the surface of the earth, as some of the Indians do about and
below the Cascades. The walls of the chief's house were
about seven feet high, the roofs are more steeply elevated
than what is common in the United States, made of the same
materials with the walls, except that the planks are of less
thickness. They have only one door to the house, and this
is in the centre of the front side. They have no chimneys
to carry off the smoke, but a hole is left open above the fireplace, which is in the centre of each family's apartment.
This answers very well in calm weather, but when there is
much wind the whole building becomes a smoke house.The fire-place of the chief's apartment was sunk a foot
below the surface of the earth, eight feet square, secured by
a frame around, and mats were spread upon the floor for
the family to sit upon. Their dormitories are on the sides
of the apartment, raised four feet above the floor, with
moveable ladders for ascent; and under them they stow
away their dried fish, roots, berries, and other effects.There was not an excess of neatness within, and still less





A MORNING VOYAGE.


177


without. The Indians in the lower country who follow fish.
ing and fowling for a livelihood are far from being as neat
as those in the upper country who depend more upon the
chase. The latter live in moveable lodges and frequently
change their habitations. But these Indians were also kind.
They gave me most of one side of the fire-place, spread down
clean new mats, replenished their fire, and were ready to
perform any service I should wish. They filled my teakettle, after which I spread out my stores so bountifully
provided by Doct. McLaughlin, and performed my own
cooking. During the evening, the chief manifested a disposition to be sociable, but we had very little language common
to us both, besides the language of signs. The next thing,
when the hour of rest arrived, was to fortify myself against
a numerous and insidious enemy. I first spread down the
cloth of my tent, then my blankets, and wrapped myself up
as securely as I could, and should have slept comfortably,
had I not too fully realized my apprehensions.
As soon as daylight appeared, on December 1st, I left the
hospitable habitation of Wanaxka, and with my two In.
dians proceeded down the Willamette about sixteen miles
before we landed for breakfast. I find a great difference in
going with or against the current of these rivers. Since
going up this river, the number of swans and geese had
greatly multiplied upon the waters and along the shores.
Their noise, and especially that of the swans, echoed through
the woods and prairies. The swan is a beautiful and majestic fowl; its large body, long neck, clear white, and ma.
jestic movements place it among the very first of the wing.
ed tribe. The common seal are numerous in this river. It
is very difficult to shoot them with the best rifles, on account of their diving with extreme suddenness at the flash.
16*





178


LOVE OF ARDENT SPIRITS.


I had a fair opportunity to shoot one to-day, but with one
splash he was out of sight and did not again appear. When
I came to the north-western branch of the Multnomah, I
proceeded down four miles to Fort William, on the Wappatoo island, an establishment which belongs to Capt. Wyeth
and Company.    The location is pleasant, and the land
around is of the first quality.
Some months ago, a tragical occurrence took place here
between two men from the United States. The subject of
their dispute was an Indian woman. Thornburgh was determined to take her from Hubbard, even at the risk of his
own life. He entered Hubbard's cabin in the night, armed
with a loaded rifle, but H. saw him and shot him through
the breast, and violently thrust him through the door. Poor
T. fell and expired. In the absence of any judicial tribunal, a self-created jury of inquest, on examination into the
circumstances of the case, brought in a verdict of "justifiable homicide."
In Thornburgh, there was an instance of a most insatiable appetite for ardent spirits. Mr. Townsend, the ornithologist, whom I have before mentioned, told me he was
encamped out for several days, some miles from Fort William, attending to the business of his profession; and that
in addition to collecting birds, he had collected rare specimens of reptiles, which he preserved in a keg of spirits.
Several days after he was in this encampment, he went to
his keg to deposit another reptile, and found the spirits
gone. Mr. Townsend, knowing that Thornburgh had been
several times loitering about, charged him with having
drank off the spirits. He confessed it, and pleaded his
thirst as an apology.
On Wednesday, the 2d, I returned to Fort Vancouver.





RETURN TO FORT VANCOUVER.           179
wvell pleased with my excursion. Thle weather wvas gene.
rally pleasant, free from winds and heavy storms. The
whole country is well adapted by nature to yield to the
hand of cultivation, and ere long, I may say, without
claiming to be prophetic, wvill be filled, through the whole
extent of the valley of the Willamette, with farms spread
out in rich luxuriance, and inhabitants, whose character
wvill depend upon the religious advantages or disadvantages
which benevolent and philanthropic individuals give or with.
hold. I found the people of the fort in their usual active
business pursuits, and I received a renewed and cordial web.
come.





180


SERVICES ON THE SABBATH.


CHAPTER XII.
Services on the sabbath-obstacles to the gospel-discouraging casemanner of spending time-description of Vancouver-fur and farming establishment-garden productions-lumber-commerce-pcltries-system of the Hudson Bay Company-waste of life-hardships of a hunter's life--their perseverance-Christian principleworldly principle.
SABBATH, 6th. I have attended three services, morning,
afternoon, and evening, and expect to continue them during
my residence in this place. Through the week there will
be but few opportunities to do much for the spiritual benefit
of the common laborers; for in this high northern latitude,
the days in the winter are so short that the men are called
out to their work before day, and continue their labor until
near dark; and as their families do not understand English,
I have no direct means of benefiting them.
There is another circumstance which operates against
the prospects of benefiting many of the population herethe common practice of living in families without being
married. They do not call the women with whom they live,
their wives, but their women. They know they are living
in the constant violation of divine prohibition, and acknowledge it, by asking how they can, with any consistency, attend to their salvation, while they are living in sin. I urged
the duty of entering into the marriage relation. They have
two reasons for not doing so. One is, that if they may
wish to return to their former homes and friends, they can,
not take their families with them. The other is, that these





DIFFICULTIES.


181


Indian women do not understand the obligations of the marriage covenant, and if they, as husbands, should wish to
fulfil their duties, yet their wives might, through caprice,
leave them, and they should be bound by obligations, which
their wives would disregard.
There is no doubt, but that this subject is attended with
real difficulties, but are they insurmountable?  Has God
given a law, which if obeyed would not secure our greatest
and best good? Can a rational mind balance for a moment
the pleasure of a sinful life against interests which stand
connected inseparably with permanent happiness, and with
a duration, compared to which, the whole of this mortal life
is but a speck, a nothing. My heart is pained when I see
the things which are seen and temporal preferred to those
that are unseen and pure, and which are commensurate with
existence itself. I cannot believe, that if these men should
marry the women with whom they live, and do all they could
to instruct them, and treat them with tenderness and respect, that there would be many cases of their leaving their
husbands. And whatever might be the results, it is always
better to sufer wrong, than do wrong. But their social
comforts are so strongly bound with the cords of sin, that
they feel, as they express their own case, that it is useless
to make any efforts to obtain spiritual freedom, until they
shall be placed in different circumstances.
As much of my time, through the week, was occupied in
study, and in digesting facts connected with the natural
history of the country west of the Rocky Mountains, and
the character and condition of the Indians, which came under my observation at different times and places; and also
that which I obtained from persons whose testimony could
be relied upon, and which came under their personal observation, I shall give them without particular dates.





182


TIE HUDSON BAY COMPANY.


I have already mentioned my agreeable disappointment,
in finding so many of the comforts of life, at different trad.
ing posts of the Hudson Bay Company; I have also given
a brief description of the local situation of Fort Vancouver.
This was taken from such observations as I could make in
a hasty view, as I was prosecuting my journey to the shores
of the Pacific ocean. This establishment was commenced
in the year 1824. It being necessary that the gentlemen,
who are engaged in transacting the business of the Company west of the mountains, and their laborers, should be
better and less precariously supplied with the necessaries of
life, than what game furnishes; and the expense of trans.
porting suitable supplies from England being too great, it
was thought important to connect the business of farming
with that of fur, to an extent equal to their necessary demands, and as this fort is the central place of business to
which shipping come, and from which they depart for different parts of the north-west coast, and to which, and from
which, brigades of hunting parties come and go; the principal farming business was established here, and has been
progressing until provisions are furnished in great abundance. There are large fertile prairies, which they occupy
for tillage and pasture, and forests for fencing materials and
other purposes. In the year 1835, at this post, there were
four hundred and fifty neat cattle, one hundred horses, two
hundred sheep, forty goats, and three hundred hogs. They
had raised the same year five thousand bushels of wheat, of
the best quality I ever saw; one thousand three hundred
bushels of potatoes; one thousand of barley, one thousand
of oats, two thousand of peas, and a large variety of garden
vegetables.  This estimate does not include the horses,
horned cattle, &c. and produce raised at other stations.





HUDSON BAY COMPANY.


183


But little, however, is done at any of the others, excepting
Colvile, the uppermost post on the northern branch of the
Columbia. The garden of this station, enclosing about five
acres, is laid out with regularity and good taste. While a
large part is appropriated to the common esculent vegetables, ornamental plants and flowers are not neglected. Fruit
of various kinds, such as apples, peaches, grapes, and strawberries, for the time they have been introduced, flourish and
prove that the climate and soil are well adapted to the purposes of horticulture. Various tropical fruits, such as figs,
oranges, and lemons, have also been introduced, and grow
with about the same care that they would require in the
latitude of Philadelphia.
In connection with this business and farming establish.
ment, the Company have a flour-mill worked by ox power,
which is kept in constant operation and produces flour of
excellent quality. Six miles up the Columbia, at the confluence of a stream coming from the north-east, they have
a saw.mill with several saws, which is kept in operation
most of the year. This mill, though large, does not furnish
more lumber than a common mill would, with one saw, in
the United States. There being no pine below the Cascades, and but very little within five hundred miles of the
mouth of the Columbia river, the only timber sawed in this
mill is fir and oak. Besides what lumber is used in the
common business about this station, one, and sometimes
two ship loads are sent annually to Oahu, Sandwich islands,
and is there called pine of the north-west coast, and sells
for about fifty dollars the thousand feet. Spars and timber
for shipping are also sent to that market. Boards of fir are
not so durable, when exposed to the weather, as those of
pine, nor so easily worked. One half of the grain of each





184


HUDSON BAY COMPANY.


annual growth is very hard, and the other half soft and
spungy, which easily absorbs moisture and causes speedy
decay. There is a bakery here, in which two or three men
are in constant employment, which furnishes bread for daily
use in the fort, and also a large supply of sea biscuit for the
shipping and trading stations along the north-west coast.
There are also shops for blacksmiths, joiners and carpenters,
and a tinner.
Here is a well-regulated medical department, and a hospital for the accommodation of the sick laborers, in which
Indians who are laboring under any difficult and dangerous
diseases are received, and in most cases have gratuitous attendance.
Among the large buildings, there are four for the trading
department. One for the Indian trade, in which are depo.
sited their peltries; one for provisions; one for goods open.
ed for the current year's business; and another for storing
goods in a year's advance. Not less than a ship load of
goods is brought from England annually, and always at
least one in advance of their present use, so that if any dis.
aster should befall their ship on her passage, the business of
the Company would not have to be suspended. By this
mode of management, there is rarely less than two ship
loads of goods on hand. The annual ship arrives in the
spring, takes a trip to Oahu during the summer, freighted
with lumber to the island, and bringing back to Vancouver
salt and other commodities, but generally not enough for
ballast; and in the last of September, or in October, she
sails for England with the peltries obtained during the preceding year.
The fur business about and west of the Rocky Mountains,
is becoming far less lucrative than in years past; for so





THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY.


185


extensively and constantly have every nook and corner been
searched out, that beaver and other valuable fur animals
are becoming very scarce. It is rational to conclude that
it will not be many years before this business will not be
worth pursuing in the prairie country, south of the 50~ of
north latitude; north of this, in the colder and more densely
wooded regions, the business will not probably vary in any
important degree.
But very few Americans who have engaged in the fur business beyond the Rocky Mountains, have ever succeeded
in making it profitable. Several companies have sustained
great loss, owing generally to their ignorance of the country, and the best mode of procedure. The Hudson Bay
Company have reduced their business to such a system, that
no one can have the charge of any important transactions
without having passed through the several inferior grades,
which constitutes several years' apprenticeship.  Their
lowest order are what they call servants, (common laborers.)
All above these are called gentlemen, but of different orders.
The lowest class are clerks, then chief-clerks; next traders,
and chief-traders; factors, and chief-factors; and the high.
est, governors. Of the last office there are only two; one
resides in London, who is at the head of the whole business
of the Company, and the other resides in Montreal, Lower
Canada. There are only two chief.factors west of the
Mountains, John McLaughlin, Esq. and Duncan Finlayson,
Esq. and with them are associated in business several chief.
traders and traders, and chief-clerks and clerks. The salaries of the gentlemen are proportioned to the stations they
occupy. This being their system of carrying on business,
no important enterprise is ever intrusted to any inexperienced person.
17





186


THE LIFE OF THE HUNTER.


It is worthy of remark, that comparatively tew of all
those who engage in the fur business about, and west of the
Rocky Mountains, ever return to their native land, and to
their homes and friends. Mr. P. of Fort Walla Walla, told
me, that to keep up their number of trappers and hunters
near, but west of the mountains, they were under the necessity of sending out recruits annually, about one third of
the whole number. Captain W. has said, that of more than
two hundred who had been in his employment in the course
of three years, only between thirty and forty were known
to be alive. From this data it may be seen that the life of
hunters in these far western regions averages about three
years.  And with these known facts, still hundreds and
hundreds are willing to engage in the hunter's life, and expose themselves to hardships, famine, dangers, and death.
The estimation has been made from sources of correct in.
formation, that there are nine thousand white men in the
north and in the great west, engaged in the various depart.
ments of trading, trapping, and hunting, including Ameri.
cans, Britons, Frenchmen, and Russians. It is more than
one hundred and fifty years since white men penetrated far
into the forests, in their canoes freighted with goods, coast.
ing the shores of the remote lakes, and following up the still
more remote rivers, to traffic with the Indians for their furs,
not regarding hunger, toils, and dangers. These enterprises
have been extended and pursued with avidity, until every
Indian nation and tribe has been visited by the trader.
What is the power of that principle which draws thou.
sands from their country, and their homes, and all the ties
of kindred? Is the love of gain and hope of wealth the
motive by which courage and daring are roused, and dan.
gers defied?  And shall Christianity be a less powerful





CHRISTIAN PRINCIPLE.


187


principle? Has it only furnished twenty or thirty missionaries, whose sole motive is to carry the gospel to the many
ten thousand Indians in the wide extended country, over
which are ranging nine thousand traders, trappers, and
hunters? Are these the only evidences the church of God
can give of sincerity in her professions of attachment to
Christ, and to the interests of the immortal soul? If so,
then Christians surely must suffer in comparison with
worldly men, and our heaven-descended religion, if judged
of by its restricted fruits, must be deemed unworthy of its
name and origin. But this want of Christian enterprise,
characterized by the late period in which it is begun, and
carried forward with such slow and faltering steps, is not
only to be lamented as a blot upon the Christian name, but
incomparably more is it to be lamented that in consequence,
generation after generation of the heathen, to say nothing
of the thousands who are trafficking among them, are left in
their ignorance of the Savior to perish eternally. How
long shall it be, that when an adventurous man forms a
plan for traffic in far distant wilds, in a short time a company is formed with a capital of fifty thousand dollars, and
a hundred men are found to face hardships and dangers,
and they are away? But when a Christian heart is stirred
up to go and carry the gospel to some far distant Indian nation, he may plead and plead for four men and two thousand
dollars, and perhaps plead in vain. But it is said, a great
deal is now doing for the heathen world. How much? As
much as to give five ministers to the United States. All that
is doing for the conversion of the heathen is not more than
what it would cost to build, and man, and defray the ex.
penses of one ship of war.





188


INDIAN POPULATION.


CHAPTER XIII.
Indian populatioh-diseases-mortality-attributed to cultivation of
the soil-destitute of medical science-holidays-customs at homecustoms of the Indians-resemblance to Jewish customs in punishment-marriage contracts-condition of the females-slaverydivision into tribes-two points of dissimilarity-sacrifices-language.
I HAVE found the Indian population in the lower country,
that is, below the falls of the Columbia, far less than I had
expected, or what it was when Lewis and Clarke made their
tour. Since the year 1829, probably seven-eighths, if not
as Doct. McLaughlin believes, nine-tenths, have been swept
away by disease, principally by fever and ague. The malignancy of this disease may have been increased by predisposing causes, such as intemperance, and the influence of
intercourse with sailors. But a more direct cause of the
great mortality, was their mode of treatment. In the burning stage of the fever they plunged themselves into the river, and continued in the water until the heat was allayed,
and rarely survived the cold stage which followed. So many
and so sudden were the deaths which occurred, that the
shores were strewed with the unburied dead. Whole and
large villages were depopulated; and some entire tribes
have disappeared, the few remaining persons, if there were
any, uniting themselves with other tribes. This great mortality extended not only from the vicinity of the Cascades
to the shores of the Pacific, but far north and south; it is





HOLIDAYS.


189


said as far south as California. The fever and ague was
never known before the year 1829, and Doct. McLaughlin
mentioned it as a singular circumstance, that this was the
year in which fields were ploughed for the first time. He
thought there must have been some connection between
breaking up the soil and the fever. I informed him that
the same fever prevailed in the United States, about the
same time, and in places which had not before been subject
to the complaint. The mortality, after one or two seasons,
abated, partly from the want of subjects, and partly from
medical assistance obtained at the hospital of Fort Vancouver. The mortality of Indians and their sufferings under
diseases are far greater than they would be, if they were
furnished with a knowledge of medicine. Indian doctors
are only Indian conjurers. But I shall have occasion to say
more upon this subject when I describe Indian customs.
December 25th. The holidays are not forgotten in
these far distant regions. From Christmas until after the
New Year, all labor is suspended, and a general time of in.
dulgence and festivity commences. Only this once in the
whole year are ardent spirits given to the laborers, when
they have a free allowance, furnishing them the opportuni.
ty to exhibit fully what they would do, if spirits were easily
and always accessible. On Christmas morning they dress
themselves in their best attire, accelerated movements are
seen in every direction, and preparation is made for dinners,
which are sure to be furnished in their first style, and greatest profusion; and the day passes in mirth and hilarity.
But it does not end with the day; for the passions and ap.
petites pampered through the day, prepare the way for the
night to be spent in dancing, and loud and boisterous laugh.
ter, shouts, and revelry, consume the hours designed for
17*





190


CUSTOMS AT HOME.


rest. They continue these high-strung convivialities until
they pass the portals of the new year, when labor and toil
resume their place.
Such are too often the customs of those who profess to be
wiser and better people. The expiring year vanishes, amidst
the noise and revels of many, who pretend by such methods
to honor the birth of our Savior, and the introduction of that
only religion, which requires perfect purity and perfect
order. And too many give as they profess, but a decent
honor and respect to those festival days, when from house
to house of their best or more indifferent friends, the wine is
circulated until they become genteelly inebriated. And is
it so, that these days are baptized with the name of holy
days? The piety of primitive Christians undoubtedly led
them to observe the supposed anniversary of our Savior's
birth, but whenever such uncommanded observances are
greatly abused, the same piety will exert itself to bring
about a reformation; and if this cannot be done, then to
abolish the custom altogether. Hezekiah, king of Judah, in
the case of the brazen serpent, which was preserved as a
memorial of the salvation wrought instrumentally by it for
those who were bitten by the fiery serpents, destroyed it
when the people idolized and burned incense to it. And
as the holidays are so generally abused and are become days
of revelry, all friends of piety should cease from their obser.
vance and do all in their power to obviate the evils.
The question whether there is any evidence that the Indians are descended from the Jews, though frequently and
largely discussed, has not been satisfactorily answered.
From all the personal observations I could make, and efforts
at examination, I could not obtain any thing conclusive
upon the subject,. but am very much induced to believe





RESEMBLANCE TO JEWISH CUSTOMS.


191


their origin will remain as problematical in future, as it has
been in time past. There are some things in their belief
and customs which favor the idea that they are of Jewish
descent. Their entire freedom from idolatry is a peculiar
characteristic, by which they are distinguished from all other
heathen. It will be remembered that the propensity of the
Jews to idolatry was entirely subdued from the time of their
captivity in Babylon. Among the Indians beyond the moun.
tains, I found no idols, nor any appearance of idolatry.
They believe in only one God, and all their worship, so far
as they have any, is offered to Him, or as they would say, to
the Great Spirit. They believe in the immortality of the
soul, and future rewards and punishments. They have no
sacrifices, their minds are perfectly open to receive any
truth in regard to the character and worship of God. They
have their superstitions which I shall mention in another
place.
Their custom of punishing the crime of murder, if it does
not differ from that of all other heathen nations, yet
coincides with what was the custom of the Jews. The near.
est relatives of the murdered person are the (" avengers of
blood," the executioners, or 1" pursuers of blood." They kill
the murderer, if they can find him; and in their own tribe
or nation, they do not extend the punishment to any other
person, so that " the fathers are not put to death for the
children, neither are the children put to death for the fathers;
every man is put to death for his own sin." As the Jews
did not regard other nations with the same benevolence as
their own, so the Indians make a distinction between their
own tribe or nation, and others. If one is killed by a per.
son belonging to another nation, if they cannot obtain and
put the murderer to death, they will take the life of some of
the relatives of the murderer; or, if they fail of this, some





RESEMBLANCE TO JEWISH CUSTOMS.


one of the nation must atone for the crime. And if this
cannot be done immediately, the debt of blood will still be demanded, though years may pass away before it is canceled.
There is also some resemblance in their marriage contracts. The negotiation is commenced, if not completed,
with the parents of the intended bride, as in the case of Isaac's
marrying Rebekah. Abraham directed his servant to go to
his kindred and take a wife for his son Isaac. He went, and
when God had shown him that Rebekah was the appointed
person, he first consulted her father and brother and when
their approbation was obtained, Rebekah's approval closed
the contract, and presents were made to the several mem6
bers of the family. The customs of the Indians are substantially the same. The bridegroom negotiates with the parents, and the approbation of the daughter being obtained,
the stipulated commodities are paid and the man takes his
wife. But as much or more is given in dowry to the daugh.
ter. The presents and dowry are proportioned to the rank
and wealth of the contracting parties. Wanaxka, the first
chief of the Clough-e-wall-hah Indians, has refused more
than one hundred dollars for a beautiful daughter, whom I
saw when I shared the hospitality of his house. A chief at
the La Dalles has refused two horses and six blankets, to.
gether with several other articles of smaller value. It is
not however to be understood that marriage is a mere mercenary transaction; for fancy and choice have their influ.
ence with them, as well as among more refined people.
Another resemblance between the Indians and the Jews
may be traced in the estimation in which their females are
held. No doubt the degradation of Indian women is to be
attributed in a large degree to their heathenism, and that
uncivilized and savage state in which we find them; yet in
their respective occupations we find some features which are





RESEMBLANCE TO JEWISH CUSTOMS.


193


not dissimilar. Among those nations and tribes who do not
possess slaves, the women cut and prepare wood for fire, as
well as food for their families, they pack and unpack the
horses, set up and take down lodges, gather roots and berries
for food, dress the skins for clothing, and make them into
garments. So Jewish women drew water for flocks and
camels, and watched over them; they gleaned the fields in
harvest; they also performed the work of grinding in the
mill. Our Savior refers to this, when he foretold the destruction of Jerusalem. " Two women shall be grinding at the
mill, one shall be taken and the other left."
Slavery was suffered among the Jews, and undoubtedly
for the same reasons that polygamy was, and the putting
away their wives by writing a bill of divorcement. While
the great law.giver did not at once abolish the practice, he
brought it under modified restrictions. The stealing and
selling a man was punishable with death. If a man bought a
Hebrew servant, the time of his service was not to exceed
six years. Intermarriages took place between these servants
and the families of their masters; and the betrothed maid
was to be treated like a daughter.  The same restrictions
were not, however, enjoined in relation to those bondmen
who were bought of the heathen, until the days of the proph.
ets, when they were commanded to break every yoke and
let the oppressed go free. So also slavery exists in a modi.
fied form among the Indians west of the mountains, not gen-.
erally, but only among the nations in the lower country.
They are bought; taken prisoners in war; taken in pay.
ments of debts, if they are orphans of the debtor; and sell
themselves in pledges. They are put to the same service
which women perform among those Indians who have no
slaves. They are generally treated with kindness; live in





194


RESEMBLANCE TO JEWISH CUSTOMS.


the same dwelling with their masters, and often intermarry
with those who are free. They are exempt from one cruel
practice which their masters inflict upon their own children,
the flattening of their heads. The reason, which those who
own slaves assign for flattening their heads, is, that they
may be distinguished from their slaves who have round
heads.
Polygamy is practiced among the Indians, and with nearly the same regulations with which it was practiced among
the Jews. Though they do not write bills of divorcement
and put away their wives, yet they send them away on slight
occasions. But this brings no disgrace upon the woman's
character, and generally she is soon married to another, and
often as advantageously.
Another resemblance between the Jews and the Indians
is the division of their nations into tribes. The tribes of
the children of Israel were the descendants of distinguished
families, and their government was patriarchal. The tribes
among the Indians are constituted much in the same way.
Some important personage gains an influence, numbers become attached to him; and though they do not separate
from their nation, nor at once become a distinct tribe, yet
they are denominated a band, and these bands in many
cases grow up into tribes.
How much allusion there may be to the ancient Jewish
custom of wearing "(fringes in the borders of their garments," I am not able to determine by eliciting any facts
from Indian tradition, but the practice is universal among
the tribes west of the mountains, as far as my observation
extended-and so fond are they of this ornament to their
dress, that every seam in their garments is furnished with it.
There are two considerations which should not be passed





RESEMBLANCE TO JEWISH CUSTOMS.


195


over, and which are against the evidences that the Indians
are of Jewish origin. One is, that they have no sacrifices.
In this they not only differ from that nation, but also from
all other nations of the earth who are not under the influence of the light of the gospel. If they are of Jewish des.
cent, it is strange that they have not continued the prac.
tice of offering up sacrifices, and especially when there is
so general a propensity among men, particularly among the
heathen, to resort to sacrifices to atone for their sins.
Whatever of truth there may be in the statements that the
Indians east of the Rocky Mountains offer up sacrifices,
yet I have not found the least traces of evidence that the
Indians of the west do so.
The other consideration is the want of evidence in their
language. There are several entirely distinct languages
among the different Indian nations. These are more entirely distinct than the different languages of Europe;
for in all the different languages of Europe there are w0rds
derived from Latin, common to each, and which prove a
common relation. Now, if the Indians are descended from
the Jews, and of course once had a common language, the
Hebrew, notwithstanding their departure by different dia.
lects from their original, might it not be expected that there
would still remain words and idioms indicative of their com.
mon origin. But it is not so, as may be seen in a vocabu.
lary of a few languages which I shall subjoin. They have
some words in common with Latin, Greek and Hebrew, but
these are used in an entirely different sense from that in
which they are used in those languages. As far as it respects language, the proof of a Jewish, or even of a com.
mon origin, is not only doubtful but highly improbable.





196


ANIMALS.


CHAPTER XIV.
The various animals beyond the Mountains.
IT is generally supposed that wild animals, in all Indian
countries and especially in the far regions beyond the mountains, are very numerous; but, excepting buffalo within
their range, which is becoming more and more circumscribed,
game is scarce. In giving an account of animals beyond
the mountains, I shall not go into a minute description of
those which are familiar to all classes of persons.
There are four varieties of bears, though it is supposed
there are only two distinct species. This is a point I shall
not attempt to decide. These are the white, grizzly, brown,
and black. The white bear is ferocious and powerful, but
their numbers are so small in the region of the Oregon country, that they are not an object of dread. But the grizzly
bear is far more numerous, more formidable, and larger,
some of them weighing six or eight hundred pounds. Their
teeth are formed for strength, and their claws are equally
terrific, measuring four or five inches; and their feet which
are astonishingly large, exclusive of their claws, measuring
not far from ten inches long, and five inches wide. There
are some even larger. The shades of their color vary from
very light gray to a dark brown, always retaining the griz.
zly characteristic. Among a multitude of their skins which
I saw, there were some beautifully dappled, and as large as
buffalo robes. These were held in high estimation. Their
hair and fur is longer, finer, and more abundant than any





ANIMALS.


197


of the other classes. They depend more upon their strength
than speed for taking their prey, and therefore generally lurk
in willows or other thickets, and suddenly seize upon any
animal which may be passing near by. The mountain men
tell as many wonderful stories about their encounters with
these prodigies of strength and ferocity, as some mountain
travelers tell us about constant battles with the Blackfeet
Indians, and starvation, and eating dogs. Now I may be
considered deficient in a flexible and fruitful imagination, if
I do not entertain my readers with one bear story, after hav.
ing traveled thousands of miles over prairies, and mountains, through valleys, ravines, and amongst caves, chasms
and deserts. But as I did not myself have any wonderful
encounters, I must borrow from a gentleman of established
good character, belonging to the Hudson Bay Company, who
gave me an account of a case which he witnessed. He
and a number of others were traveling in canoes up the
Athabasca river, and on a morning one of their hunters
shot upon the shore a large cub of a grizzly bear, which
they took on board a canoe, and of which they made their
supper on encamping for the night. While seated around
their fire in conversation, the supposed mother of the slain
cub approached, sprang across the circle and over the fire,
and seized the hunter who had shot the cub, threw him
across her shoulder, and made off with him. They all laid
hold of their rifles and pursued, but feared to fire lest they
should injure their companion. But he requested them to
fire, which one of them did and wounded the bear. She
then dropped the first offender, and laid hold of the last in
like manner as the first, but more roughly, and accelerated
her departure. There was no time to be lost, and several
fired at the same time, and brought her to the ground. The
18





198


ANIMALS

last man was badly wounded but recovered. The "great
medicine," or mystery in this case, I shall not attempt to explain, but let every one account for it in his own way.
The brown bear is less ferocious, more solitary, and not
highly esteemed either for food or for its skin. The black
bear is somewhat similar in its habits to the brown, but
lives more upon vegetable food, and is more in estimation
for its pure black, well-coated skin.
The raccoon, is somewhat numerous in parts of this coun.
try, more especially towards the ocean. I could not discov.
er any difference in their appearance and habits from those
in the United States.
The badger inhabits this country, and is found on the
plains west of the great chain of mountains. Having giv.
en a short description of this animal when passing through
the parts where it was seen, it is not necessary in this place
to make any further remarks.
The weasel, the polecat, the marmot, the mink and musk.
rat, are common, though not numerous, in this country, and
not differing from those on the eastern part of this conti.nent, do not need description.
The wolverine is said to inhabit these western regions,
of which I saw one in the Salmon river mountains, which
my Indians killed. The animal I saw differed in several
particulars from the description given by Richardson. It
was one foot nine inches from its nose to its tail; its body
not large in proportion to the length, short legs, small eyes
and ears; its neck short and large as the head, and its mouth
shaped like the dog. Its color was uniformly a dark brown,
nearly black; and its fur was some more than an inch long
and coarse. I had no opportunity of observing its habits.
The hedgehog is common in all parts of the Oregon Ter




ANIMALS.


199


ritory, does not differ from those found in other parts of
America, and for its quills, is held in high estimation by the
Indians. It is interesting to see with how much ingenuity,
and in how many various forms, the Indians manufacture
these quills into ornamental work, such as moccasons, belts,
and various other articles.
There are three kinds of squirrels-two of which I have
already described. The third is the gray, which differs
from those in the United States in being larger and its color
more beautifully distinct. I saw many of their skins made
into robes and worn by the Indians about the Cascades.
Of the feline, or cat kind, there are the panther, the long
tailed tiger cat, the common wild cat, and the lynx. The
panther is rarely seen, and the difference of climate and
country produces no change in its ferociousness and other
habits, from those found in other parts of America. The
long tailed tiger cat is more common, very large, and of a
dull reddish color. Also the common wild cat is often seen.
It is much smaller, its tail is short and its color is like the
above named. I can only name the lynx, as they did not
come under my observation. It is in the lower, wooded
country they are found, and the Indians say they are nu.
merous.
There are five different species of wolves; the common
gray wolf, the black, blue, white, and the small prairie wolf.
The common gray wolf is the same as those found in the
United States, and has all their common habits. The black
wolf, which I did not see, as described by Mr. Ermitinger,
a gentleman belonging to the Hudson Bay Company, is
larger than the gray and more noble in its appearance, and
is the strongest of the wolf kind. Those which the same
gentleman called the blue wolf, are rarely seen, as also the





200


ANIM ALS.


white, and so far as their habits are known, do not material.
ly differ from others. The small prairie wolf is the most
common, and bears the greatest resemblance to the dog,
and has been called the wild dog. It differs from the dog in
all the peculiarities of the wolf kind as much as the others
do. It is as uniform in its color, size, and habits. They
are uniformly of a dull reddish gray, never particolored;
the hair is always long, blended with brown fur at its roots,
and like other wolves they are always prowling and cowardly. They are more numerous than the other kinds, and in
considerable numbers follow the caravans to feed upon the
offals. Although we frequently heard them howl and bark
around our encampments, yet they never disturbed our rest.
Much has been said about the immense number of wolves
beyond the Rocky Mountains, but I did not find them so
numerous as I expected. I do not make this assertion solely
from tile fact that I saw or heard only a few, but from the
testimony of those whose long residence in this country
entitles them to credit. It is the traveler who never saw the
country he describes, or the lover of the marvelous, or he
who does not expect soon to be followed in his route through
dreary and uninhabited wilds, who sees, and minutely relates, adventures with the reptiles and monsters of the desert.
The fox which is generally dispersed through tlhe world is
found here in three different kinds; the red, gray, and silver. They do not differ from those found east of the moun.
tains. The silver gray fox is scarce, and highly esteemed,
and takes the highest rank among the furs of commerce.
Its color is dark, sometimes nearly black, the ends of the
hairs tipped with white, and in addition to the uncommon
fine texture, the fur presents a beautiful glossy appearance.
Martins are not abundant; some are found about the





ANIMALS.


201


head waters of the Columbia in woody mountains, but they
are more numerous and of superior quality farther north.
The inoffensive, timorous hare, in three different species,
abounds in all parts of this country. Its natural instinct
for self-preservation, its remarkably prominent eye, its large
active ear, and its soft fur, are its characteristics in this, as
in other regions. The three species are, the large common
hare, which is generally known, the small chief hare with
large round ears, and a very small species, only five or six
inches long, with pointed ears. If the first named differs in
any particular from those in the United States, it is in its
manner of running, and its speed. Its bound is not regular,
but its motions are an alternate running and leaping at an
almost incredible distance, and with such swiftness that I
frequently mistook it, at first view, for the prairie hen, which
I supposed was flying near the surface of the ground. Its
flesh when used for food, is tender and of a pleasant flavor.
The only dress which many of the Indians have to protect them from the cold, is made of the skins of these animals, patched together into a scanty robe.
There is a small species of the marmot of which I have
seen no description in any work on natural history, which
is probably peculiar to this country. It is called by the
Nez Perc6s, eluet; is five inches long from the tip. of its
nose, exclusive of its tail, which is two in length-its body
is one inch and a third in diameter, the color is brown,
beautifully intermixed with small white spots upon its back.
It has eight long hairs projecting from the nose, on each
side, and two over each eye. Its habits resemble those belonging to its genus. It is remarkably nimble in its movements. The Indians esteem its flesh a luxury.
Among the animals of the genus cervus, the elk is the
18*





202


ANIMALS. 4


largest and most majestic. It exists in considerable numbers east of the Rocky Mountains, but is less numerous on
the west side. It combines beauty with magnitude and
strength, and its large towering horns give it an imposing
appearance. Its senses are so keen in apprehension, that it
is difficult to be approached;- and its speed in flight is so
great, that it mocks the chase. Its flesh resembles beef,
though less highly flavored, and is inuch sought for by the
Indians and hunters. Its skin is esteemed, and much used
in articles of clothing and for moccasons.
I did not see the moose; they are said to be found farther
north, in the colder and woody regions.
There are three species of deer; the red, the black-tailed,
and the common American deer. Like those found in other
countries, they are of a mild, innocent, timid aspect; elegant in form, with slender, nervous limbs. When any object or noise alarms them, they throw up their heads, erect
and move their ears in every direction to catch the sounds;
snuff up the wind, and bound off with great celerity. The
deer west of the mountains are more lean and the flesh is
less inviting than of those found in the United States. This
may arise from the nature of the food to which they are
confined, havingr less opportunity for browsingy, especially
upon such shrubbery as is congenial to their natures, there
being but very few of the sacchariferous kinds found in
their country.
The red deer are generally found about the Rocky Mountains and upon the head waters of the Columbia.
The black-tailed deer, while they are of a dusky sallow
color, like the common American deer, are somewhat darker,
and their tails are larger and nearly black, which gives them
their name. Their eyes are large and prominent, their ears





ANIMALS.


203


are also large and long, and judging from those I saw, they
are smaller than the common deer. When they move faster
than a walk, they bound.
The antelope, which I have already described, are numer.
ous in the upper and prairie country.
It is hardly necessary to say that the beaver, so noted for
its valuable fur, for its activity, and perseverance,-its social habits, its sagacity and skill in constructing its village,
and preparing its neat and comfortable dwellings, is an in.
habitant of this country. It has been sought with avidity
and has been a source of wealth to many, but to multitudes,
of poverty, misery and death. It would be difficult to sum
up the woes of the last class of adventurers.
Its flesh is very good for food, and the trapper and hunter
depend almost entirely upon it for subsistence, while in its
pursuit.  Although I ate several times the flesh of the
beaver, yet I discovered no evidence of the truth of the assertion often made, that while the flesh of the fore parts is
of the quality of land animals, its hind parts are in smell
and taste like fish. I should think it would require much
assistance from imagination to discover the fish taste.
Here also the land otter is found,and is somewhat numerous,
and next to the beaver is sought with avidity by the hunter
and trader. The shades of its color vary from a light, to a
deep, beautiful brown. The fur is rich and in great demand,
and there is none found in any country of better quality
than the skins I saw at different trading posts of the Hud.
son Bay Company. Its formation is adapted to land and
water, having short and muscular legs, so articulated that it
can bring them horizontal with its body, and use them as
fins in the water; and its toes are webbed like water fowl,
It subsists principally upon fish, frogs, and other aquatic





204


ANIMALS.


animals. It has a peculiar habit, which seems to be its
pastime, for we know of no motive it can have, unless it be
the love of amusement, which is to ascend a high ridge of
snow, and with its legs thrown back, slide down head fore.
most upon its breast. When there is no snow, it will in
the same manner slide down steep, smooth, grassy banks.
The sea otter, so highly and justly valued for its rich fur,
is found only along the American coast and adjacent islands,
from Kamschatka to upper California. They vary in size,
are generally about four feet long when full grown, and
nine inches in diameter. Its legs are very short, and its
feet are webbed. Its fur is of the first quality, long and
glossy, extremely fine, intermixed with some hairs; the outside is black, sometimes, however, dusky, and the inside a
cinerous brown. They are amphibious, sportive, and often
bask upon the shore for repose, and when asleep the Indians
approach and slay them. They have been so much hunted
for their valuable fur, that they are diminishing in numbers.
The hair seal is very frequently seen in the waters of Columbia river. Its head is large and round, its eye full and
mild. I often saw it swimming after our canoe, presenting
to view its head, neck, and shoulders, appearing, in some
degree, like the mastiff dog. Its hair is of various colors,
generally a dappled gray. It rarely goes far from its most
natural element, water; but is sometimes seen basking upon
rocks on the shore, and this is the most favorable opportunity for killing it; for its motions are so quick in the water,
that it will submerge at the flash of the rifle, and if killed
in the water it sinks, and is difficult to be obtained.
In enumerating the animals beyond the Rocky Moun.
tains, I am not able, as might be expected, to describe the
Rocky Mountain, or big-horn sheep, as I did not have an





ANIMALS.


205


opportunity to see it. I am unwilling to state, as facts, the
descriptions of others, especially as there are so many wrong
statements made in natural history. I did not see any of
these animals, which probably I should have done, if they
were as numerous as travelers have said they are. I saw
their horns, which are enormously large, if, as it is said,
their bodies are not much larger than a common deer. A
horn which I measured, was five inches in diameter at its
juncture with the head, and eighteen long. Its flesh, of
which I had an opportunity to eat, was far preferable to the
best mutton. They inhabit the mountains, and are said to
select the most rough and precipitous parts where grass is
found. They are not covered with wool, but with hair so
bordering upon wool as to render its coat warm in the
winter.
The mountain goat, and sheep, did not come under my
observation. I was anxious to obtain specimens of them,
but failed in obtaining only small parts of their skins, not
sufficient to make a description.
I close with the buffalo, which is of the bovine genus,
and is the largest and the most important for food and covering of any of the animals in our country. I need not in
this place go into so long description, as otherwise would be
important, having already spoken of them as I was passing
through their range of country. After having seen thousands and ten thousands of them, and having had months
of time to examine their forms and habits, I feel at a loss
whether they are to be classed with the buffalo or bison of
the eastern continent. Not with the buffalo, if historians
have given a correct description of those on that continent.
The flesh of those is said to be " black, hard, and very un.
palatable; their hides impenetrable, making soft and smooth





,206


ANIMALS,


leather-their race is so fierce and formidable, that there is
no method of escaping their pursuit but by climbing up
into some immense tree; for a moderate tree would be bro.
ken down by them, and many travelers have instantly been
gored to death by them and trampled to pieces under their
feet." It is said "their voice is a hideous loud bellow."
But none of these things are true of the buffalo of our
country.
If a true account has been given of the bison of the
eastern continent, our buffalo differ from them in several
material traits of character and habits. Those of the east.
ern continent, are said to have "small heads, with horns so
wide spread, that three men can sit between them,-that
their eyes are small, red and fiery,-that they have a hump
upon their backs like a camel, and which is preferred to be
eaten for its delicacy-that they are fierce and vindictive,
so that men have to fly to trees for safety,-that the bulls
and cows live in separate bands." These things do not correspond with the buffalo or bison of our western prairies.
The buffalo or bison of our country are generally about
as large as our domestic neat cattle, and their long, shaggy,
woolly hair which covers their head, neck, and shoulders,
gives them a formidable appearance, and at a distance
something like the lion. In many particulars they resem.
ble our horned cattle; are cloven footed, chew the cud, and
select the same kind of food. Their flesh is in appearance
and taste much like beef, but of superior flavor, and remark.
ably easy of digestion. Their heads are formed like the ox,
perhaps a little more round and broad, and when running,
they carry them rather low. Their horns, ears and eyes,
as seen through their shaggy hair, appear small, and cleared
from their covering, they are not large. Their legs and





ANIMALS.


207


feet are small and trim, the fore legs covered with the long
hair of the shoulders as low down as the knee. Though
their figure is clumsy in appearance, yet they run swiftly
and for a long time without much slackening their speed;
and up steep hills or mountains they more than equal the
best horses. They unite in herds, and when feeding, scat.
ter over a large space, but when fleeing from danger, they
collect into dense columns, and having once laid their course,
they are not easily diverted from it, whatever may oppose.
Their power of scent is great, and they perceive the hunter
when he is on the windward side, at a great distance, and the
alarm is taken, and when any of them manifest fear they
are thrown into confusion, until some of the cows, from the
instinct of fear, take the lead to flee from the pursuer, and
then all follow at the top of their speed. So far are they
from being a fierce and revengeful animal, they are very
shy and timid; and in no case did I see them offer to make
an attack, but in self defence when wounded and closely
pursued, and then they always sought the first opportunity
to escape. When they run they lean alternately from one
side to the other. The herds are composed promiscuously
of bulls and cows, except some of the old bulls which are
often found by themselves in the rear or in advance of the
main bands. Sometimes an old blind one is seen alone
from all others; and it was amusing to see their consterna.
tion when they apprehend the approach of danger. The
natural instincts of fear and prudence lead them to fly alter.
nately in every possible direction for safety. I was pleased
to find our most thoughtless young men respect their age
and pity their calamity; for in no instance did I see any
abuse offered them. They are fond of rolling upon the
ground like horses, which is not practiced by our domestic





208


ANIMALS.


cattle. This is so much their diversion, that large places
are found without grass and considerably excavated. The
use of their skins for robes, and their woolly fur, with
which they are covered, are so universally known, that
a description is entirely unnecessary. Another peculiarity
which belongs to them is, that they never raise their voice
above a low bellow; in no instance were we disturbed by
their lowing, even when surrounded by thousands, and in
one of our encampments, it was supposed there were five
thousand near. It has been said they do not visit any of
the districts formed of primitive rocks. This is said with.
out reason, for I saw them as frequently in those districts,
in proportion to their extent, as where other formations ex.
isted. It is also said that as they recede from the east they
are extending west. This is also incorrect; for, as I have
before said, their limits are becoming more and more cir.
cumscribed. And if they should continue to diminish for
twenty years to come, as they have during the last twenty,
they will become almost extinct.





FISH.


209


CHAPTER XV.
Fish-description of salmon-salmon fishcry-ornithology-dendrology-shrubbcry-nutritivc roots-geography-mountains-valleys
-plains-forests-rivers-soil-seasons.
I PASS to a brief notice of the fish found in the waters of
the Columbia. Their number is great, but their variety is
small. The salmon, sturgeon, anchovy, rock cod, and trout
are all that I shall mention. The sturgeon of good quality
and in very considerable numbers, commence running the
fore part of April, and give relief to the suffering Indians.  I
say suffering, for before the opening of the spring, their
stock of provisions are consumed, and they are seen searching for roots and any thing which will sustain life; and
though I do not feel authorized to say what others have said,
that in the latter part of the winter and fore part of spring,
they die with starvation in great numbers, yet they are
brought to extreme want, and look forward to the time when
the sturgeon shall come into the river with great solicitude. A small fish, like the anchovy, about six inches long,
very fat and well flavored, come into the river in great
numbers about the time or a little before the sturgeon. The
Indians obtain large quantities of oil from them, by putting
them into a netting strainer and exposing them to gentle
heat.
The rock codfish were not known to inhabit the waters
about the mouth of the Columbia, until the present year.
They are very fine and easily caught.
19





210


FISH.


The salmon is far the most numerous and valuable fish
found in these waters, and is of excellent flavor. It is well
ascertained that there are not less than six different species
of the true salmon that ascend these waters, commencing
about the twentieth of April. Their muscular power is exceedingly great, which is manifested in their passing the
falls and rapids, which it would seem are insuperable. They
are never known to return, but are constantly pressing
their way upwards, so that it is not uncommon to find them
in the small branches of the rivers near the very sources.
We found them in September near the Rocky Mountains,
where they are said to be as late as November and December. I saw some with parts of their heads worn to the bone
and the skin worn off, which appears to be the result of their
efforts to ascend until they perish. Late in the season,
great numbers are found dead, furnishing food for crows,
and even Indians; for I have seen them drive away the
crows and appropriate the remnants to themselves. When
the salmon become much emaciated, their flesh loses its rich
redness, and it is seen in the skin, which gives the fish a
beautiful appearance; but when in this state it is hardly edi.
ble. It is worthy of notice, that the salmon has its prefer.
ences of water, selecting some branches of the Columbia
river and passing by others; and those taken in some of the
tributary streams are far better than those taken in others.
While those which ascend the rivers never return, their
young are seen in September descending on their way to
the ocean, in immense numbers. It is believed these return
the fourth year after their descent; but this may be only conjecture. It is difficult to estimate how many salmon might
be taken in these rivers, if proper measures were pursued;
and also what would be the results upon the numbers which





FISHERY.


211


would continue to enter and ascend. I think without doubt
a plan might be devised and adopted to carry on a salmon
fishery in this river to. good advantage and profit. The experiment was made by a company from the United States,
which failed, for it contained the elements of its own overthrow. The company sent out large quantities of rum, pro.
bably calculating on the fact that the Indians are fond of
ardent spirits, and if they should gratify this appetite, they
should enlist them in their favor, and as Indians will do anything for rum, they would catch and sell their fish to them.
Whatever the object of the company might have been in
sending and dealing out so much rum, the Indians were highly pleased with receiving it in pay for their salmon. But
when they had tlus obtained it they would become intoxicated and disqualified for labor, and more time was wasted
in drunkenness, than employed in fishing. Besides, their
salmon were often suffered to lie in the hot sun until they
were much injured, if not wholly spoiled. The result was,
that the company, as I was informed, obtained only about
four hundred barrels of salmon, and made a losing voyage;
and the superintendent of Fort Vancouver told me, that when
the company abandoned their business, they stored many
barrels of rum at his fort. My information was not wholly
derived from those who had been in the employment of that
company, and gentlemen of the Hudson Bay Company, but
in part from the Indians, who often spoke to me upon the
subject by way of praise. They would say, " close, hias
luim," signifying, good, plenty of rum.
The birds of Oregon are not as numerous as those which
inhabit civilized countries, probably because they have not
access to the grain and fruit of cultivated fields, and the
woods and groves are more widely dispersed. But they are





212


ORNITHOLOGY.


sufficiently numerous to employ an ornithologist profitably,
for a great length of time in collecting and preserving the
specimens. This region is particularly interesting from the
fact, that in this as in other departments of natural science,
it has hitherto been an unexplored field-no competent scientific person having visited this country to classify the
different genera and species. Mr. J. K. Townsend, of Philadelphia, an ornithologist, has spent two years in examining scientifically this field, and will probably give to the
public the result of his labors. I am indebted to him for
assistance in the following summary.
The largest part of the feathered race are migratory, and
are seen only a part of the year; there are many, however,
that reside here during the whole year. Among these are
the majestic white.headed eagle, and the golden eagle, and
three or four species of hawks, two species of jay, the mag.
pie, and thousands of ravens and crows; several species of
small sparrows, and two or three species of grouse, the common partridge of the United States, and the dusky grouse
of the Rocky Mountains; and also an interesting species of
the dipper or water ousel. The habits of this bird are very
curious and peculiar, particularly that of descending to the
bottom of ponds and swiftly running streams, and there in
search of small shell-fish, remaining under water, for at
least two minutes, during which time it will course about
upon the pebbly bottom, with as much apparent ease and
satisfaction, as if upon dry land. The red-winged blackbird and the rolin continue through the year. The notes of
the latter are heard even in the chill of the winter, though
in feeble strains.
As the autumn advances, the number of swans, geese,
and ducks multiply. I have already mentioned these water





ORNITHOLOGY.


213


fowl. The black cormorant is common upon the Columbia
river, and there are other species of the same genus, seen
about the shores of the Cape, which do not ascend the
rivers. Among these is the violet green cormorant, the
most splendid of all the known species of cormorants. The
loon, or great northern diver, is very plentiful in this river.
Gulls, terns, auks, and petrels, in great numbers, visit this
river to seek shelter from the violent storms which agitate
the ocean during the winter.
The spring, with rising vegetation and opening flowers,
brings its hosts of lovely feathered tribes, which remain for
different periods of time; many of them continue only a few
weeks, and then retire to other parts for nidification. There
are, however, great numbers that remain through the sum.
mer, and their delightful songs add to the charms of a fine
morning of April and May. Among these are hundreds of
warblers, wrens, titmice, and nuthatches. Of the warblers
there are eleven species, six of which are new, the other five
are common to the States. Several of the species are but
transient visitors, but most of them remain through the
season. Of the wrens there are six species; three of the
titmice; and two of the nuthatches. And in the train fol.
low the thrushes, of which there are seven species, two of
which are new; of these the Wilson's thrush is pre-eminent
in sweetness of song. The fly catchers number eight spe.
cies, three of which are new; and there are thirteen species
of the finches, three of which are new. These are a large
and musical band, among which are several of the finest
songsters known in the world. In no instance do we find
more richness and delicacy of plumage, with the most sweet
melody of voice, than in a new species of large bullfinch,
which visits this section of country in the spring. If these
19*





214


DENDROLOGY,


were domesticated, they would form a most valuable addi.
tion to any aviary. There are eight species of woodpeckers, four of which are new; and of the swallow tribe there
are five species, one of which is new, and the most beautiful of the family, characterized by a splendid changeable
green plumage on the head and back, while the other parts
are purple and white.
I pass over the mention of many genera and still more
numerous species of the different birds of this region, as it
is not my design to attempt a history of them, but only to
give a succinct sketch, that some idea may be formed of the
ornithological treasures of this interesting country.
Having frequently made mention of the trees and shrubbery west of the great mountains, I shall in this place only
enumerate the principal, describing a few. I have said
there are three species of fir, and that they constitute far
the greatest part of the forest trees, and are very large.
The three kinds are the red, yellow, and white. They not
only differ in the color of the wood, but also in their foliage.
The foliage of the red is scattered on all sides of the branch.
lets in the same form as those found in the United States;
the yellow only on the upper side, or the upp)er half of the
twigs; the white is oppositely pinnated. The balsam is
alike in the three different species, found in blisters upon
the bark in the same form as in other countries.
White pine is not native in the lower country, nor far
west of the main chain of the Rocky Mountains; a few
pitch are found in the same region with the white. Nor.
way and yellow pine are native farther west, but not below
the Cascades. The new species, which I have called the
elastic pine, is far the most numerous, but I did not see any
of these as far west as Walla Walla.





DENDROLOGY.


215


The cedar is the common species, grows very large and
tall, and is the best of any of the forest trees for various
mechanical uses. The yew is also found among the evergreens, though it is scarce. The tamarisk is found in small
sections of the country. The white oak of good quality, and
often large, is a common tree of the forests, and also the black,
rough-barked oak grows in some of the mountainous parts.
In an excursion down the rich plains below Fort Vancouver, where there are trees scattered about like shade trees
upon a well cultivated farm, I measured a white oak, which
was eight feet in diameter, continued large about thirty feet
high, and then branched out immensely wide, under which
Mr. T. and myself, with our horses, found an excellent shelter during a shower of rain. There are two kinds of ash,
the common white ash and the broad leafed. The latter is
very hard. There is also alder, which I have mentioned as
growing very large, and on dry ground as well as on that
which is low and swampy.
There are three species of poplar, the common aspen, the
cotton and balm. The first is common in various parts of
the United States, and is well known; the second commonly
called cotton-wood, skirting rivers and streams as in the west.
ern States; the third is the Populus balsamifera. often
called the balm of Gilead. Its distinguishing properties
are ovate leaves, and a bitter balsam in a glutinous state
found in the small twigs, but mostly in the buds. This last
species in some places spreads over large sections of bottom.
land, where the soil is uncommonly good. White maple is
found, but only in small quantities. Willows of various
species are common in all parts of the country. There is
a tree in the lower country which grows much in the form
of the laurel or bay tree, but much larger,-the bark is
smooth and of a red bay color, its leaves are ovate. It has





216


SHRUBBERY.


been called the strawberry tree, but I do not know with what
propriety. There are no walnut or hickory trees west of
the great mountains, nor chestnut of any species, or hard
or sugar maple, or beach, linden or bass-wood, black cherry,
cucumber, white wood, elms, or any kind of birch, except a
species of black birch which grows small; nor are there
any of the species of locusts, hackberry, or buckeye. I
might lengthen out the catalogue of negatives, but the above
observations are sufficient to give a general view of the for.
ests trees of the country.
The variety of shrubbery and plants is so numerous, that
their examination would employ the botanist many months.
I shall only sketch a few of those which are scattered over
the prairies and through the forests. Among these are sev.
eral varieties of the thorn.bush, many of which are large and
fruitful. Those bearing the red apple present, when they
are ripe, a very beautiful appearance. There is one species
peculiar to the country west of the mountains, the fruit of
which is black and of a delightful sweet taste, but not gener.
ally dispersed through the country. It is principally native
about the Blue Mountains, the Walla Walla and Ummatilla
rivers. The choke cherry is common to all parts of the
country, and its fruit is very grateful where animal food is
principally depended upon for subsistence. The salalberry
is a sweet and pleasant fruit, of a dark purple color, and
about the bigness of a grape. The serviceberry is about
the size of a small thorn apple, black when fully ripe, and
pleasantly sweet like the whortleberry; and the pambina
is a bush cranberry. The varieties of the gooseberry are
many,-the common prickly, which grows very large on a
thorny bush,-the small white, which is smooth and very
sweet,-the large smooth purple, and the smooth yellow,
which are also of a fine flavor. All of these attain to a





PLANTS.


217


good maturity, and those growing on the prairies are very
superior. There are three varieties of the currant, the pale
red, the yellow, which is well tasted, and the black. Though
these are a pleasant acid, yet they are not so prolific and
desirable as those which grow under the hand of cultivation.
The beautiful shrub Symphoria racemosa, called the snowberry, which is found in some of our gardens, grows here
wild and in great abundance.
Besides the common raspberries, there is a new species
which grows in the forests, the berry, which is three times
as largo as the common, is a very delicate rich yellow, but
the flavor is less agreeable. There is a new species of
sweet elder whicli I have already described. The trailing
honeysuckle is among the first ornaments of nature.
The sweet flowering pea grows spontaneously, and in
some places embellishes large patches of ground. In some
small sections red clover is found, diflering however from
the kind cultivated by our farmers, but not less sweet and
beautifill; white clover is found in the upper and mountainous parts. Strawberries are indigenous, and their flavor
more delicious than any I have tasted in other countries.
Wild flax I have mentioned and described on page eighty.
nine.
Sun-flowers are common, but do not grow large; also a
species of broom-corn is found in many places of the bottom-lands of the Columbia, and other streams. To these
may be added a wild grain somewhat resembling barley, or
rye.
Among the nutritive roots, I have mentioned the wippatoo and the cammas. The wappatoo is the common sagittaria, or arrow head, and is found only in the valley of the
Columbia below the Cascades. The root is bulbous, and





218


GEOGRAPHY.


becomes soft by roasting, and forms a nourishing and agree.
able food, is much used by the Indians, and is an article of
trade. It grows in shallow lakes, and in marshes which are
covered with water. The Indian women wade in search of
this root, feel it out in the mud and disengage it with their
feet, when it rises to the surface of the water and is secured.
The cammas, a tunicated root, is one of great importance
to the Indians and grows in moist, rich ground, in the form
of an onion. It is roasted, pounded, and made into loaves
like bread, and has a taste resembling licorice. The cowish, or biscuit root, grows on dry land, somewhat larger than
a walnut, tastes like the sweet potato, is prepared in the
same manner for food as the cammas, and is a tolerable
substitute for bread. To these may be added the racine
amere, or bitter root, which grows on dry ground, fusiform,
and though not pleasant to the taste, is very conducive to
health; also the common onion, and another characterized
for its beautiful red flower, which often grows upon patch.
es of volcanic scoria where no other vegetation is seen.
Although a description of the Oregon Territory has been
necessarily interwoven in the narrative, yet a condensed account of its geography may with propriety be given here.
In comparing the country west with that east of the moun.
tains, especially the great valley of the Mississippi, we are
impressed very powerfully with the strong contrast which
their distinguishing features present. The valley of the
Mississippi may be called the garden of the world-every
part abounding in rich soil inviting cultivation. We see
no barren or rocky wastes, no extended swamps or marshes
-no frozen mountains. Destitute of prominent land-marks
to catch the eye of the traveler, he sees in the wide distance
before him only the almost horizontal lines of level or roll.





MOUNTAINS.


219


ing meadow. No one points him to the peaks of dim mountains and tells him that the range divides two sister states,
or separates two noble rivers. He sees no clouds resting on
the shoulders of lofty Butes and blending their neutral tint
with the hazy blue of the landscape before him-nor Tetons
rearing their heads into the region of perpetual snowand day after day, he pursues his journey without any thing
to create in his bosom emotions of the grand, and sublime,
unless it be the vastness of the expanse.
Beyond the Rocky Mountains, nature appears to have
studied variety on the largest scale. Towering mountains
and wide extended prairies, rich valleys and barren plains;
and large rivers with rapids, cataracts and falls, present a
great diversity of prospect. The whole country is so moun.
tainous, that there is not an elevation from which a person
cannot see some of the immense ranges which intersect its
different parts. On an elevation a short distance from Fort
Vancouver, five isolated conical mountains, from ten to fif.
teen thousand feet high, whose tops are covered with perpe.
tual snow, may be seen rising in the surrounding valley.
There are three general ranges, west of the rocky chain of
mountains, running in northern and southern directions.
The first above the Falls of the Columbia river; the second
at and below the Cascades; the third towards and along
the shores of the Pacific. From each of these, branches
extend in different directions. Besides these there are those
which are large and high, such as the Blue Mountains south
of Walla Walla-the Salmon river mountains between Sal.
mon and the Cooscootske rivers; and also in the regions of
Okanagan and Colvile.
Between these mountains are wide-spread valleys and
plains. The largest and most fertile valley is included be




220


VALLEYS-PLAINS.


tween Deer island on the west, to within twelve miles of the
Cascades, and is about fifty-five miles wide, and extending north and south to a greater extent than I had the
means of definitely ascertaining; probably from Pugets
sound on the north, to the Umbiquh river on the south.
The Willamette river and a section of the Columbia are in.
cluded in this valley. The valley south of the Walla Walla,
called the Grand Round, is said to excel in fertility. To
these may be added Pierre's Hole and adjacent country;
also Racine Amere east of the Salmon river mountains.
On Mill river, which unites with the Columbia at Colvile,
from the south, through a valley of more than fifty miles,
there are rich bottom lands. While these are open and
ready for cultivation, the hills on both sides of the valley
are covered with woods. Other fertile sections of considerable magnitude are dispersed over different parts of the
country. To these may be subjoined extensive plains, most
of which are prairies well covered with grass. The whole
region of country west of Salmon river mountains, the Spokein woods, Okanagan, and quite to the range of mountains
which cross the Columbia at the Falls, is a vast prairie
covered with grass, and the soil is generally good. Another
large plain, which is said to be very barren, lies off to the
south-west of Lewis' or Snake river, including the Sho.
shones' country; and travelers who have passed through
have pronounced the interior of America a great barren
desert; but this is drawing a conclusion far too broad
from premises so limited. So far as I have had opportunity
for observation, I should feel warranted in saying, that
while some parts of Oregon are barren, large portions are
well adapted to grazing; and others, though less extensive,
to both tillage and grazing.





FORESTS-RIVERS.


221


Upon the subject of forests, I would only observe, that a
large proportion of the country west of the mountains is
destitute, while some parts are well supplied. I have already mentioned the lower country, from below the Falls of the
Columbia to the ocean, as being well wooded, and densely
in many parts, especially near the ocean. The mountains
north of the Salmon river, and the country about, the Spo.
kein river, and so on still farther north, are well furnished
with forests, and in some other sections there are partial
supplies.
The country in general is well watered, being intersected
with lakes, and many large rivers and tributary streams.
This might be inferred from the fact that there are so many
mountains, upon the sides and at the base of which are multitudes of the finest springs. No country furnishes water more
pure and of such crystal clearness. As the spring and
summer heat commences, the snows of the mountains melt,
and begin to swell the rivers in the beginning of May,'and
the freshet continues to increase until June, when it is the
greatest, and overflows large sections of the low lands of the
valleys, which present the appearance of inland seas.
While the rivers of this country are numerous, and several
of them are large, yet the inland navigation will be attended
with difficulties, not only from the many falls and rapids,
but from the labor and expense necessary to construct canals through the immensely hard basaltic rock formation.
The Columbia has three large falls in the distance of seven
hundred miles; the Cascades, one hundred and thirty miles
from the ocean at the head of tide water; the Falls of the
Columbia, forty miles above the Cascades; and the Kettle
Falls, five hundred and thirty miles above the Falls of the
Columbia. There are many rapids, but the Nine-mile Ra.
20





222


RAIL-ROAD---THE SEASONS.


pids, thirty miles above Walla Walla, are the most embar,
rassing. The other rivers are still more obstructed with
falls and rapids, except the Willamette, which has only one
fall at the head of its tide water, twenty miles above its
junction with the Columbia. The obstruction to a canal
around this, is far less than around the above named falls;
and when constructed, the navigation may be extended fifty
miles farther into the country. While such is the condition of the country in respect to its internal navigation and
commerce, the ingenuity of man in our day, has provided
something which can be most advantageously applied as a
remedy. I mean rail-roads. In making observations, with
reference to this very subject, I was interested to see the
wisdom and benevolence of the Creator, in providing passes
through those stupendous ranges of mountains, running generally from north to south, and I thought how easily the
whole territory might be traversed in this way; and the
large pentagonal basaltic columns are ready at hand to fa.
cilitate the work. No country in the world furnishes better opportunities for water power to be applied to manufacturing purposes; every river and stream having falls, cas.
cades, and rapids.
The seasons. These are divided into two; the rainy in
the winter, commencing in November and terminating in
May; the dry in the summer, which is entirely destitute of
rain, and during which time the atmosphere is remarkably
serene; and the daily prairie winds relieve the heat of the
sun, and the season is most delightful. The climate is far
more temperate and warm west of the Rocky Mountains,
than east in the same latitude, there being at least ten
degrees difference of latitude, as may be seen by the subjoined meteorological table. There were only three days in





THE SEASONS.                 223
the whole winter of my residence in the country, that the
thermometer sunk to 220 Fahrenheit, at Fort Vancouver.
Snow does not fall deep excepting upon the mountains; in
the valleys it rarely continues more than a few days, or at
the farthest only a few weeks; and by the latter part of
February or the first of March, ploughing and sowing is
commenced. And not only is the climate uncommonly delightful, but it is also healthy, and there are scarcely any
prevailing diseases, except the fever and ague in the lower
country, which, as has been stated, commenced in 1829;
and the opthalmy which is very general among the Indians
of* the plains.  It is worthy of notice, that thunder and
lightning are seldom witnessed west of the mountains, but
in the valley of the Mississippi, they are very frequent and
unusually heavy.





224


S INDIANS OF THE PLAINS.


CHAPTER XVI.
Character and condition of the Indians-Indians of the plains-their
persons-dress-wealtlh-habits-physical charactcr-manufactures
-their religion-wars-viccs-moral disposition-superstitionsmedicine men.
As it was the principal object of my tour to ascertain
the character and condition of the Indians beyond the
Rocky Mountains, their numbers, and the prospects of establishing the gospel among them, it will not only be proper
but important to give a full and connected description of
these particulars. In doing this, while I have availed myself of information collected from men of intelligence and
integrity, I have confined my statements to those things
which have been corroborated by, or came under my own
observations; feeling it a duty to avoid the many fabulous
accounts which have been given of Indian character and
customs. Romance may please and excite admiration, fiction may charm, but only truth can instruct.
I shall first describe the Indians of the plains. These
live in the upper country from the Falls of the Columbia to
the Rocky Mountains, and are called the Indians of the
plains, because a large proportion of their country is prairie
land. The principal tribes are the Nez Perces, Cayuses,
Walla Wallas, Bonax, Shoshones, Spokeins, Flatheads,
Coeur d'Alene, Ponderas, Cootanies, Kettlefalls, Okanagans,
and Carriers. These do not include probably more than
one half of those east of the Falls, but of others I have ob




COSTUME.


225


fained but little definite knowledge.  These all resemble
each other in general characteristics. In their persons the
men are tall, the women are of common stature, and both
men and women are well formed. While there is a strong
natural as well as moral resemblance among all Indians, the
complexion of these is much the same as other Indians, ex.
cepting a little fairer. Their hair and eyes are black, their
cheek bones high, and very frequently they have aquiline
noses. Their hands, feet, and ankles, are small and well
formed; and their movements are easy, if not graceful.
They wear their hair long, part it upon their forehead, and
let it hang in tresses on each side, or down behind.
There is a great resemblance in the dress of different tribes,
which generally consists of a shirt, worn over long, close leggins, with moccasons for their feet. These are of dressed
leather made of the skins of deer, antelope, mountain
goats, and sheep; and over these they wear a blanket or
buffalo robe. The borders of their garments are ornament.
ed with long fringes, after the manner of the ancient Jews.
They are fond of ornaments, and their heads and garments
are decorated with feathers, beads, buttons, and porcupine
quills; these last are colored red, yellow, blue, and black,
and worked with great skill and variety of design. They
appear to have less of the propensity to adorn themselves
with painting, than the Indians east of the mountains; but not
unfrequently vermilion, mixed with red clay, is used not only
upon their faces, but upon their hair. The dress of women
does not vary much from that of the men, excepting, that in.
stead of the shirt, they have what we may call a frock coming
down to the ankles. Many of them wear a large cape made
of the same material, and often highly ornamented with large
oblong beads of blue, red, purple, and white, arranged in
20*





226


THEIR WEALTH.


curved lines covering the whole. Some of the daughters of
the chiefs, when clothed in their clean, white dresses made of
antelope skins, with their fully ornamented capes coining
down to the waist, and mounted upon spirited steeds, going
at full speed, their ornaments glittering in the sun-beams,
make an appearance that would not lose in comparison with
equestrian ladies of the east.
Their horses are not less finely caparisoned with blue and
scarlet trimmings about their heads, breasts and loins, hung
with little brass bells.
While a want of cleanliness is a characteristic of all heathen, the Indians of the plains are less reprehensible than
others, and far more neat than those of the lower country
towards the Pacific. It is not to be understood that there
are not those who are poor, suffering from the want of food
and clothing.
Their wealth consists in their horses, and in a great
degree their consequence depends upon the number they
possess; some owning several hundreds; and that family
is poor whose numbers are not sufficient for every man,
woman and child to be mounted, when they are traveling
from place to place; and also to carry all their effects. In
these respects they are far better supplied than any tribes
I saw east of the mountains. While their horses are their
wealth, they derive but little from them for the support of
themselves and families; for they do not employ them to
cultivate the earth; and the market for them is so low, that
they command but a small price. A good horse will not sell
for more than enough to purchase a blanket, or a few small
articles of merchandize. For subsistance, they necessarily
depend upon hunting and fishing, and gathering roots and
berries. Their mode of cooking is plain and simple. Most





HIABITS.


227


of their food is roasted, and they excel in roasting fish. The
process is to build a small fire in the centre of their lodge, to
fix the fish upon a stick two or three feet long, and place
one end in the ground so as to bring the fish partly over the
fire, and then by a slow process it is most thoroughly roasted without scorching, or scarcely changing the color. The
principal art consists in taking time, and our best cooks
might improve by following their mode.
The habits of Indians are said to be indolent. As a gen.
eral remark it may be true, but I saw but very little to confirm its truth among the Indians of the plains; for I rarely
saw any of these Indians not engaged in some object of
pursuit; not the most productive perhaps, but such as enlisted their attention. While I believe in the striking resem.
blance, both physical and moral, of all the different nations
and tribes of Indians, spread over large portions of the continent of America, greater than is seen in any people of
any other country of equal extent, yet if it is true, that as
a general fact, " they are morose and gloomy in their counte.
nances; sullen, or bacchanalian in their dispositions; that
they are rarely so joyfil as to laugh unless excited by ardent spirits; that they are taciturn and never indulge in
mirth; that they are obtuse in sympathy, and destitute of
social affections; that in proud disdain they turn away
from  whatever would excite curiosity; that no common
motives or endearments excite them to action;" if these things
are true, then the Indians in Oregon are an exception to
the general fact. In all the above named particulars, I saw
no special difference between them and other nations. As
a part of the human family, they have the same natural pro.
pensities and the same social affections. They are cheer.
ful and often gay, sociable, kind and affectionate; and anx





MANUFACTURES.


ious to receive instruction in whatever may conduce to their
happiness here or hereafter. It is worse than idle to speak
of" physical insensibility inwrought into the animal nature
of the Indians, so that their bodies approximate to the insensibility of horses' hoofs."  The influence of this kind of
remarks is to produce, in the bosoms of all who read
them, the same insensibility that is charged upon the
native character of the Indians. To represent their characters and their restoration to the common feelings of
humanity so hopeless, is to steel the heart of even Christianity itself, if it were possible, against all sympathy, and
to paralize all exertions and effort to save them from the
two-fold destruction to which they doom them, temporal and
eternal. Is this the reason that Christians are sitting in
such supineness over their condition, and that the heartthrilling appeals for teachers to enlighten them are disregard.
ed? Is this the reason, that while the philanthropy of the
United States' citizens towards them is so widely blazoned,
that those who are sent to teach them the arts of civilized
life, are sitting quiet on the borders in governmental pay,
while the Indians are roaming still over the prairies in search
of uncertain and precarious game? I forbear to tell the
story.
They have but few manufactures, and those are the most
plain and simple, not extending much beyond dressing the
skins of animals, and making themn into clothing; making
bows and arrows and some few articles of furniture. In
dressing skins they never make any use of bark or tannin.
Their process is to remove the hair and flesh from the skins
by scraping them with a hard stone or wood, or, when it
can be obtained, a piece of iron hoop, and then besmearing
them with the brains of some animal, they smoke them thor




MVANUFACTURES.


229


oughly and rub them until they are soft; and after this
bleach them with pure white clay. Their mode of smoking
is to dig or excavate a small place in the ground, about a
foot deep, and over this to construct a small fixture in the
form of a lodge, a few feet wide at the base and brought to
a point at the top. Then they build a small fire in the centre, and place the skins around upon the frame work, so as
to make the enclosure almost smoke tight. The process
occupies about one day. Their mode of dressing buffalo
robes is different. They stretch the skin upon the ground,
flesh side up, fastening it down with pins around the border,
and then with an instrument formed somewhat like a cooper's adz, made of stone, or wood overlaid with a piece of iron,
brought to a blunt edge like the currier's knife, they clear
from it all remaining flesh and let it thoroughly dry. After
this, with the same instrument, they work upon it with a
pounding, hewing stroke, until they have brought it to a
suitable thickness and rendered it soft and white, as our
buffalo robes are, when brought into market. It is a work
of great labor and is performed by the women. We little
think how much toil it costs a woman to prepare one of
these robes, and then how little is paid for it by the purchaser; a pound of tobacco or a bunch of beads, is as much
as the Indian generally receives.
Their bows are made of the most elastic wood, strength.
ened with the tendons of animals glued upon the back side,
and the string is made of the same substance. Their arrows
are made of heavy wood, with one end tipped with a sharp
stone or pointed iron, and the other pinnated with a feather.
While the first is to pierce, the latter is to govern the direction. Their bows and arrows perform astonishing execu.
tion, and they manage them with great dexterity.





230


RELIGION.


Most of the cooking utensils, which they now use, are obtained from traders, and do not often extend beyond a
brass kettle, tin pail, and a very few knives. They have
bowls which they manufacture very ingeniously from  the
horns of buffalo; and sometimes, those that are larger and
more solid, from the horns of the big horn mountain sheep.
They have spoons of very good structure made of buffalo
horns; also they have various kinds of baskets of rude workmanship. Their saddles are rude, somewhat resembling
the Spanish saddle, having a high knob forward, and rising
high on the back part; generally sitting uneasy upon the
horse's back. Their bridles are only a rope well made of
hair, or the shag of the buffalo, fastened to the under jaw of
the horse, very long, so as to form the lasso; this is so coiled in the hand as to form a noose when thrown over the
horse's head, which is done very dexterously; and when
they are mounted, the rope, or leather thong which is often
used in its place, trails along upon the ground. This is
often left upon the horse's neck, when he is turned out for
a short time to feed, for the convenience of more easily
catching him.
Their canoes, before they obtained iron hatchets of the
traders, were, with great labor and patience, made with
hatchets of stone; and even now, with no small effort. A
canoe of good construction is valued as high as one or two
good horses.  Their fishing nets are another article which
is well constructed, formed of wild flax; and in every particular like our scoop nets.
As regards the religion of the Indians, I have already
stated in tracing their resemblance to the ancient Jews, that
they believe in one God, in the immortality of the soul, and
in future rewards and punishments. But while these are the





BELIEF.


231


prominent points of their belief, definite ideas of a religious
nature appear to be extremely limited, both in number and
in comprehensiveness. As much as this, however, appears to
be true. They believe in one Great Spirit, who has created
all things, governs all important events, who is the author of
all good, and the only object of religious homage. They
believe hie may be displeased with them for their bad con.
duct, and in his displeasure bring calamities upon them.
They- also believe in an evil spirit, whom they call cinirn
keneki meokbt cinmo.cimo; that is, the black chief below,
who is the author of all the evils which befall them, undeserved
as a punishment from the Great Spirit above. They believe
that the soul enters the future world with a similar form, and
in circumstances like those under which it existed in this life.
They believe that in a future state, the happiness of the good
consists in an abundance and enjoyment of those things
which they value here, that their present sources of happiness
will be carried to perfection; and that the punishment of
the bad wvill consist in entire exclusion from every source of
happiness, and in finding all causes of misery here, greatly
multiplied hereafter. Thus their ideas of future happiness
and misery are found to vary according to their different
situations and employments in life. It is difficult, if not
impossible, to ascertain any thing of their religious belief
beyond these general notions. The number of words and
terms in their language expressive of abstract and spiritual
ideas, is very small, so that those who wish to instruct them
in these subjects, are compelled to do it by means of illustra.
tions and circumlocutions, and the introduction of words
from foreign languages. Besides, conscious of their ignorance, they are, for the most part, unwilling to expose it, by
revealing the little knowledge which they possess. Indeed,





232


WAR.


wherever a feeling of ignorance upon any subject prevails,
we find that all endeavors to elicit the true amount of knowledge, are repelled or evaded. Even men of talents and
education, who converse fluently upon most subjects, are
often silent when religious topics are introduced.
I am far from believing the many long and strange traditions, with which we are often entertained. It is more than
probable, that they are in most instances the gratuitous offerings of designing and artful traders and hunters to that
curiosity, which is ever awake and attentive to subjects of
this description. The Indians themselves would often be
as much surprised at the rehearsal of these traditions, as
those are for whose amusement they are fabricated. My
own opinion is confirmed by that of several gentlemen
of integrity and veracity, who stand at the head of the
Hudson Bay Company, who have long been resident in the
Indian country, and have become extensively acquainted
with their languages.
The Indians west of the great chain of mountains, have
no wars among themselves, and appear to be averse to all
war, and do not enter into battle except in self-defence, and
then only in the last extremity. Their only wars are with
the Blackfeet Indians, whose country is along the east border of the Rocky Mountains, and who are constantly roving
about in war parties, on both sides, in quest of plunder.
When the Indians on the west meet with any of these parties, they avoid an encounter if possible, but if compelled to
fight, they show a firm, undaunted, unconquerable spirit,
and rush upon their enemies with the greatest impetuosity;
and it is said that one Nez Perce, or Flathead warrior is a
match for three Blackfeet. The only advantage which the
latter have over the former consists in their numbers, there





WAR-VICES.


233


being more than twenty thousand of the Blackfeet Indians.
When an enemy is discovered, every horse is driven into
camp, and the women take charge of them, while every man
seizes his weapons of war, whatever they may be, mounts
his horse, and waits firm and undismayed to see if hostilities must ensue. If a battle cannot be avoided, they rush
forward to meet their foes, throwing themselves flat upon
their horses as they draw near, and fire, and wheel, and reload,-and again rush full speed to the second encounter.
This is continued until victory is decided, which is as often
by the failure of ammunition, as by the loss of men. Very
frequently, when the Blackfeet see white men with the Nez
Perces or Flatheads, they decline a battle, though far superior in numbers, knowing that the white men can furnish a
large supply of ammunition; and in such cases they will
raise a white flag, and come in to smoke the pipe of peace.
The Nez Perce or Flathead chief, on such an occasion, will
say " we accept your offer to smoke the pipe of peace, but
it is not in ignorance that your heart is war, and your hand
blood, but we love peace. You give us the pipe, but blood
always follows."
But these Indians are not without their vices. Gambling
is one of the most prominent, and is a ruling passion which
they will gratify to the last extremity. It is much practiced in running horses, and foot races, by men, women, and
children, and they have games of chance played with sticks
or bones. When I told the Nez Perces that gambling is
wrong, and a violation of the tenth commandment; for it
is coveting the property of another, and taking it without
an equivalent, as much as stealing; they said they did not
know it before, but now they know God forbids it they will
do so no more. Theft is generally supposed to be inbred in
21





234


GOOD MORALS.


the Indian, but I was pleased to discover that the tribes of
the plains held it in abhorrence, and would punish it severely
should it occur. The Shoshones are said to be addicted to
this habit in some degree. Drunkenness is a stranger vice
among these nations, their remove from the sources of this
evil being their security. It is not to be supposed that their
virtue, any more than that of other tribes would be invulner.
able if exposed to temptation, for this habit, like their proverbial love for finery and ornament, is acquired by the facilities for indulgence which are thrown in their way. The
trader goes far into the interior with his small packs of
beads, buttons, paints, &c., to exchange for their furs, and
teaches this ignorant people to set the same value on his
articles, that theirs are intrinsically worth-but who suppos.
es that they would not know the comparative worth of more
useful goods, if they were offered them? An attempt was
made not long since, by an United States citizen, to construct a distillery on the Willamette river, but for want of
suitable materials he failed in his object.
The moral disposition of these Indians is very commendable, certainly as much as that of any people that can be
named. They are kind to strangers, and remarkably so to
each other. While among them I saw no contentions, and
heard no angry words from one to another. They manifest
an uncommon desire to be instructed that they may obey
and fulfil all moral obligations. Harmony and peace prevail in all their domestic concerns. But when they have any
difficult subject, which they know not how to dispose of, they
go to their chiefs, and if it involves any important principle,
the chiefs bring the case to any white man, who may be
among them, to obtain his opinion, which is generally followed. They are scrupulously honest in all their dealings,





SUPERSTITIONS.


235


and lying is scarcely known. They say they fear to sin
against the Great Spirit, and therefore, have but one heart,
and their tongue is straight and not forked. And so correctly does the law written upon their hearts accord with
the written law of God, that every infraction of the seventh
command of the decalogue is punished with severity.
I have witnessed but few things among them indicative of
superstition. The practice of the Shoshones to cut them.
selves for the dead, I have already mentioned. The Carriers burn their dead. When a person dies, all the relations
must be assembled, which often occupies many days; and
if a husband is deceased, the wife must sleep with her dead
husband to show her affection for him; and when the body
is laid upon the funeral pile, she must, during the burning,
frequently put her hands upon his bosom. Their first chief
lost his wife. He was asked if he would show the affection
for her, which was required of others. He thought on account of his chieftainship he might be excused. The people
were urgent, and he consented, but so great was the pain
which he endured, that he was willing the practice should
be ameliorated, and it is hoped it will soon be abolished.
They have no unlucky days, but as a substitute for the
white man's Friday, they have a portentous howling of a
large wolf, which they call the medicine wolf. If they hear
this when traveling, sadness is at once visible in their
countenances, for it is considered as foreboding some calamity near.
Among their superstitions may be classed their mode of
curing diseases. They have what are called medicine* men,
* The word medicine, as used by Indians, signifies any thing mysterious.





236


MEDICINE MEN.


who make no pretensions to any knowledge of diseases or
skill in medicine; but they have a bag in which is deposited
various relics, not to be administered to their patients, but
to operate as a charm. The patient is stretched upon the
ground; a number of persons encircle around and sing the
medicine song. The medicine man enters the circle and
commences his magical incantations; uses many gestures
and inarticulate sounds; pats or kneads the patient with his
hands, beginning very softly, and gradually increasing to a
considerable degree of severity; blows into the patient's ears
and practices other like ceremonies. By this process the
patient is often much fatigued, and thrown into a free perspiration, and his imagination is much excited. When the
friction has been sufficiently employed, the imagination well
wrought upon, and the medicine bag has invisibly imparted
its virtues, the medicine man presents some trifling article,
such as a small bone, a stick, or pebble, and says he has
taken it from the body of the patient, and it was the cause
of the disease; or he gives a heavy puff upward, and says
the disease has come out of the patient and gone upward,
and then asks him if he does not feel better. The patient
says yes; for he certainly feels better in being relieved from
the process. And often the effect is permanent; for the
friction may have been beneficial, and the imagination often
performs wonders. The medicine man stands responsible
for the life of his patient, and if the patient dies, not unfrequently his own life is taken by some of the relatives of the
deceased. He makes a heavy charge for his services, often
a horse, and why should he not? for who in such cases
would endanger his life without being well paid? In some
parts of the country, but more especially in the lower country,
the lives of medicine men are short, and it would be supposed





STEAM BATH.


287


fhis would deter others from entering into the profession.
But the love of fame and wealth is powerful among heathen
as well as among civilized communities, where there are
those who will sell their souls, as well us their bodies, to gra.
tify sinful propensities. Undoubtedly the medicine men,
when they begin their profession, know that they are practicing deception, but by continuance in practice, by the confi.
dence others place in their skill, and by the effects produced
through the medium of the imagination, they believe in the
efficacy of their own enchantments, and that they themselves
are consequential men.
I have seen no " root doctors" in any tribe east or west
of the mountains. The Indians, so far as I have had an
opportunity of ascertaining, have but few diseases, and for
the cure of these, they use but little medicine; nor do they
profess to have scarcely any knowledge of remedies beyond
a few specifics.
The warm bath is used both by sick and healthy persons
in the following manner. They construct a steam bath in
the form of an oblong oven, two or three feet high, about
six feet long, made of willows, each end inserted into the
ground, forming an arch, which is covered with grass and
mud, or more generally with skins. In this they place a
number of hot stones, upon which they pour water. The
person who is to go through the process, enters and is en.
closed nearly air tight, and remains until a very profuse
perspiration is produced, and often until nearly suffocated.
He then comes out and plunges at once into cold water,
and no regard is paid to the season of the year, whether
summer or winter.
They are wholly destitute of the means of obtaining an
education, and therefore are ignorant of all the sciences..
21*





2388


MUSIC.


In things with which they are conversant, such as appertain,
to hunting, war, and their limited domestic concerns, they
manifest observation, skill, and intellect; but beyond these
their knowledge is very limited. They necessarily compute
by numbers, but their arithmetic is entirely mental. It is
an interesting fact, that of four different languages, which
I examined, the mode of counting is by tens.
The Klicatat nation count with different words up to ten.
Lah's, one; neep't, two; and so to ten; then they add wappena to lah's; as lah's wappena, eleven; neep't wappena,
twelve; neep't tit, twenty; and in like manner to one hun.
dred, and so on to a thousand by hundreds. In the Nez
Perce language, nox is one, lapeet, two, metait, three, &c.
After ten they repeat the radical numbers with the addition,
tit, as noxtit, eleven; laaptit, twenty; metaptit, thirty. This
may be a sufficient specimen for the four languages, as the
other two proceed in the same manner.
They count their years by snows; as, maika elaix, snows
six, that is six years; and months by moons, and days by
sleeps; pinemeekpe-e-lep, sleeps four, (four days.) It is not
common that they know their exact age; nor, generally
speaking, are they very accurate in chronology.
They are very fond of singing, and generally have flexi.
ble and sweet.toned voices. Most of their singing is with.
out words, excepting upon some special occasions. They
use hi, ah, in constant repetition, as we use fa, sol, la; and
instead of several different parts harmonizing, they only
take eighths, one above another, never exceeding three.
They are conscious of the inferiority of their tunes to ours,
and wished to be instructed in this department of know.
ledge. In this land of moral desolations, it was cheering to
hear the sounds of melody and harmony, even in the most
simple strains.





INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY.


239


CHAPTER XVII.
The Indians of the lower country.
THE Indians of the lower country are those between the
shores of the Pacific and the Falls of the Columbia river,
and from Pugets Sound to upper California. The principal
nations are the Chenooks, the Klicatats, the Callapooahs,
and the Umbaquas. These nations are divided into a great
number of tribes, which have their respective chiefs, and
yet each nation has its principal chief, who is head over all
the several tribes, and has a general superintending control.
Their persons are rather below a middle stature, and not generally as well formed as the Indians of the plains or upper
country. Their women are uncouth, and from a combina.
tion of causes appear old at an early age. Among these
causes the habit of painting, in which they indulge, destroys
the smooth and healthy appearance of the skin.
These Indians appear to have less sensibility, both physical and moral, than those of the upper country. Their dependence for subsistence being mostly confined to fishing
and fowling, they are not so well supplied with clothing as
the upper Indians, who hunt the buffalo, the elk, the antelope, and other game.  The lower Indians obtain some
game, and clothing from the posts of the Hudson Bay Company. I have often seen these going about, half naked,
when the thermometer ranged between thirty and forty degrees; and their children barefooted and barelegged in the
snow; and yet when exposed to fatigue, they cannot endure





240


THE INDIANS OF


the cold half so well as civilized people. I have noticed
this, when I have had them employed in conveying me any
considerable distance in a canoe. Their taste and smelling
are obtuse, rendered so by their filthy habits and contaminated food. But they are quick to catch correctly a dis.
tant sound, and remarkably keen-sighted, by their habits of
closely and carefully watching for game. These nations
being, from their mode of subsistence, more stationary than
those of the plains, have more durable and comfortable ha.
bitations, which are built of split plank, after the manner
which I have described Wanaxka's, near the falls of the
Willamette. Some of them, however, indulge the fancy of
making their doors like the face of a man, the mouth being
the place of entrance.
The lower Indians do not dress as well, nor with as good
taste, as the upper. Their robes are much shorter, and are
made of inferior materials; such as deer skins with the hair
on, and skins of hares and of squirrels. The women wear
a sort of petticoat, made of cedar bark, or a species of strong
grass, twisted into strands, which at one end, is fastened
into a girdle, and the other is knotted and suspended from
the band. These Indians are as degraded as those on our
frontiers, and from the same causes. By their intercourse
with those who furnish them with the means of intoxica.
tion, and who have introduced kindred vices, they have be.
come indolent and extremely filthy in their habits, and more
debased than the beasts of the earth. How perfectly neat
are the deer and the antelope; how industrious the beaver
and the bee; how cleanly is the plumage of the bird; how
well adapted to repose are their habitations; in a word, how
different are all their habits from those of fallen, polluted
man. It is not the want of rational powers, but their abuse





THE LOWER COUNTRY.


241


by sin which has thus degraded him, and nothing but Chris.
tianity can bring him back to God, and the comforts and
decencies of life.
The want of moral instruction, the influence of bad examples, and unrestrained licentiousness, have brought the
lower Indians into a state of wretchedness which will be entailed upon future generations, and which nothing but the
healing power of the gospel can ever eradicate. There are
some exceptions, but not enough to exert a redeeming pow.
er to save these remnants of once populous nations, if benevolence and humanity do not soon break their slumbers.
It is to be hoped the missionaries, now in the field, under
God, will interpose a barrier to these sweeping desolations.
In their religious belief, they do not materially differ from
the upper Indians. While they believe in one Great Spirit,
they in addition believe in subordinate spirits, or invisible
agencies, to whom they ascribe much the same power as
has been ascribed to witchcraft. We had a specimen of
this, when the May Dacre was passing down the river irn
October. On the north side of the Columbia, near the confluence of the Cowalitz, there were some dark recesses in
the basaltic rocks. An Indian chief on board warned Capt.
L. not to approach those dark places; for they were the
residence of bad spirits who would destroy the ship and all
on board. Capt. L. purposely passed near the place; and
the Indian was astonished that we escaped unhurt, and con.
cluded there must have been some great " medicine" in the
ship which defended us. They believe in the immortality
of the soul, and that in the future state we shall have the
same wants as in this life. Under the influence of this belief, the wife of Calpo, a very influential chief of the Chenook village near Cape Disappointment, on losing a daugh.





242


THE INDIANS OF


ter in the year 1829, killed two female slaves to attend her
to the world of spirits, and for the particular purpose of
rowing her canoe to the far off happy regions of the south,
where in their imagination they locate their elysium. She
deposited her daughter, with the two slain females by her
side in a canoe, with articles of clothing and domestic im.
plements. She was the daughter of Concomly, and a wo.
man of more than common talents and respectability, a
firm friend of white men, who had more than once saved
them from slaughter. How dark was the mind of this tal-.
ented woman, and how differently would she have conduct.
ed undei the influence of divine revelation! These Indians
never mention the name of their relatives after they are
dead.
It is only in the lower country of the Oregon Territory.
and along the coast that slavery exists. It was formerly
practiced in the upper country, but was long since abolished,
The Walla Walla tribe are descended from slaves formerly
owned and liberated by the Nez Perce Indians. Like the
Jews, they permitted, as I have stated above, their slaves to
reside and to intermarry in their families, and reasoning on
the principles of natural justice, they concluded that it was
not right to hold in slavery their own descendants, and liberated them, and they are now a respectable tribe.
Gambling is also practiced among the lower Indians, and
carried to perfection.  After they have lost every thing
they possess, they will put themselves at stake; first a hand,
and if unsuccessful, the other; after this an arm, and in the
same manner, piece by piece, until all is lost except the head,
and at last their head; and if they lose this, they go into
perpetual slavery. If civilized men will gamble, it is desi
rable they should carry gaming to the same perfection; for





THE LOWER COUNTRY.


243


then they would cease to be a pest in society, and how.
ever different may be our sentiments upon the subject of
slavery, in this we should generally be agreed, that such
slaves would not deserve commiseration. The Indians, how.
ever, do not set their souls at the hazard of the game, as
civilized gamblers do, when they imprecate the eternal ven.
geance of God upon themselves if they are not successful.
The Indian gambles away his inalienable rights for time
only.
It is a universal practice to indulge in smoking, but when
they saturate their bodies with smoke, they do it in a dignified manner. They use but little tobacco, and with it they
mix freely a plant which renders the fume less offensive. It
is a social luxury, for the enjoyment of which, they form a
circle, and only one pipe is used. The principal chief begins by drawing three whiffs, the first of which he sends
upward, and then passes the pipe to the next person in dignity, and in like manner it passes around until it comes to
the first chief again. He then draws four whiffs, the last
of which he blows through his nose in two columns, in circling ascent, like a double-flued chimney. While thus em.
ployed, some topic of business is discussed, or some exploit
in the chase, or some story of the battle.field, is related;
and the whole is conducted with gravity. Their pipes are
variously constructed, and of different materials. Some of
them are wrought with much labor and ingenuity of an argillaceous stone, of very fine texture, of a blue black color,
found at the north of Queen Charlotte's island.  It is
the same kind of stone except in color, as that found up.
on the head waters of the Missouri, which is brick red.
These stones, when first taken out of the quarries, are soft
and easily worked with a knife, but on being exposed to the
air, become hard, and are susceptible of a very good polish.





244


THE INDIANS OF


The Indians in the lower country are more indolent than
in the upper; and the common motives for industry operate
reversely from those in civilized communities. The more
they can get for their labor, the less they will do; the more
they can get for an article in sale, the less they will bring
into market. Their wants are but few, and when these are
supplied they will do no more. They have no disposition
to hoard up treasures, nor any enlarged plans to execute,
requiring expense and labor. If they have any particular
present want to supply, they will do only what is sufficient
to satisfy it, and make no farther effort until urged by a returning necessity. To make them industrious and provident, you must induce them to set a higher estimate upon
the comforts of life, and show them that they are attainable,
and that there is an increase of happiness growing out of
industry; and all this must be learned by experience, for
abstract reasoning and theories are of no avail. An Indian
may be taken abroad and instructed, and convinced of the
advantages of civilization above heathenism, and if sent
back to his country alone, he will become discouraged, and
return to his former habits. Missionaries, and practical
farmers, and artisans, must go among them, and make it
the business of their lives to do them good, and identify their
own interests with theirs. Charging them with indolence,
and insensibility, and cruelty, will never make them wiser
or better. He is the true philanthropist, who, instead of
passing by on the other side, goes to them, and does all in
his power to raise them from their degradation, and bring
them to God and to heaven.
The Indians of the lower country, although less anxious
to be instructed in the things of religion, than those of the
upper country, express a readiness to receive instructors.





THE LOWER COUNTRY.


24#


I have not found among them, nor any Indians beyond the
influence of frontier settlements, any thing like what has
been stated to have taken place in other sections of our
country, and in other times: that they will listen to statements made by missionaries, and give their assent to what
is said as very good; and then state their own theories of
religion, expecting the same courteous assent in return.
Neither have I seen any disposition manifested, to say the
Christian religion is very good for white men, but as red
men differ, they need a different religion and mode of life.
They have not yet been instigated by infidels to say such
things. They are conscious of their ignorance of God and
salvation, and of the various arts and sciences. While an
indifference and apathy characterize some, which is discouraging, yet there has been nothing manifested which is
forbidding.
While gratitude is a general characteristic of Indians,
yet they have in some cases their peculiar way of expressing it. An Indian had a son laboring for a long time under
a languishing and dangerous complaint. Their medicine
men had done all they could for him, but without success.
The father brought his son to the hospital at Fort Vancou.
ver, and earnestly desired to have him treated with care and
with the best medical attendance. The sick son was received, and in about six months was restored to good health.
When his father came to take him home, he remarked to
Dr. McL. "My son is a good boy, he has been with you a
long time, and I think you must love him; and now as he is
about to leave you, will you not give him a blanket and
shirt, and as many other small things as you think will be
good? We shall always love you."
The lower Indians make their medicine, in some particu.
22





2.46


THE INDIANS OF


lars, differently from those farther east. Their professed
object is to obtain present relief, if not a radical cure; to
assuage the sorrow of the relatives if the patient dies, that
he may die more easily, and his soul may be rendered more
capable of performing its journey to its far distant and hap.
py country. The process is simple, and occupies five or
or six hours. The patient is laid upon a bed of mats and
blankets, sometimes a little elevated, and surrounded by a
frame work. Two " medicine men " place themselves upon
this frame, and commence a chant in a low, long-drawn
voice, each holding a wand in his hand, three or four feet
long, with which they beat upon the frame, keeping time
with their tune. They gradually increase the loudness
and the movement of their medicine song, with a correspondent use of their wand, until the noise becomes almost
deafening, and undoubtedly often hurries the patient out of
the world. During this time the near relations appear to
be perfectly indifferent to the condition of the sick person,
lest their anxiety should affect the influence of the charm,
and they are generally employed about their common business, the women in making mats, baskets and moccasons;
and the men lolling about, smoking, or conversing upon common subjects. In some cases, especially, if their confidence
in the medicine man is small, they manifest much affliction
and concern; and in all cases after the person dies, they
make great lamentation.
I have already mentioned the practice of the lower Indians of flattening their heads and piercing their noses.
But another reported custom, of having pieces of sea-horse's
tusks, or oval pieces of wood an inch and a half long and an
inch wide, inserted into a hole in their under lip, made for
the purpose, is not correct in regard to any of the Indians





THE LOWER COUNTRY.


247


in this section of country. Captain Beechy mentions this
as a common practice from Norton's island and northward;
which was noticed by Deshnow, as long ago as 1648,
worn by men, and by women about Prince William's sound,
and which. custom, Captain B. says, is common the whole
distance along the western shores of America, as far as Ca.
lifornia. I saw some specimens of this ornament, or rather
deformity, which were worn by the Indians at Millbank
Sound.
The wealth of the lower Indians is estimated by the num.
her of their wives, slaves, and canoes. Every Indian of any
distinction takes as many wives as he is able to support,
and his wealth is supposed to accord with the number.
They are quite destitute of horses, and their almost only
mode of traveling is in canoes; for the forests are so dense
that they are nearly impenetrable, and they do not con.
struct any roads. As the upper Indians excel in horsemanship, so these excel in the management of their canoes.
These are uncommonly well made, and of various sizes,
from twelve to thirty feet long; the largest will carry as
much as a good bateau. They are generally made of the
fir tree. The bow and stern are raised high, so as to meet
and ward off the boisterous waves, and the bow is sometimes decorated with figures of animals. Slaves are employed in propelling the canoes, but not exclusively; for
often the chiefs will perform their part of the labor, and the
women are equally expert with the men.
Their manufactures do not widely differ from those of the
upper country, with the addition of hats and baskets of uncommonly good workmanship, made of grass of superior
quality, equal to the Leghorn. The native hats are a flaring
cone. Their baskets are worked so closely as to hold wa.





248


TIHE INDIANS OF


ter, and are used for pails. Some of them are interwoven
with various colors and devices, representing fancifully,
men, horses, and flowers.
The government of the Indian nations is in the hands of
chiefs, whose office is hereditary, or obtained by some spe.
cial merit. Their only power is influence; and this is in
proportion to their wisdom, benevolence, and courage.
They do not exercise authority by command, but influence
by persuasion, stating what in their judgment they believe
to be right and for the greatest good of their tribe or nation, or of any family or community. The chiefs have no
power of levying taxes, and they are so much in the habit
of contributing their own property for individual or public
good, that they are not generally wealthy. Their influence,
however, is great; for they rarely express an opinion or desire, which is not readily assented to and followed. Any
unreasonable dissent is subdued by the common voice of the
people. Probably there is no government upon earth where
there is so much personal and political freedom, and at the
same time so little anarchy; and I can unhesitatingly say,
that I have nowhere witnessed so much subordination,
peace, and friendship, as among the Indians, in the Oregon
Territory. The day may be rued, when their order and
harmony shall be interrupted by any instrumentality whatever.
There are exceptions, however, to the general fact of the
good conduct of the chiefs and the respect which is given
them. Cazenove, the first chief of the Chenook nation, is
one. He was a great warrior, and before the desolating
sickness, which commenced in the year 1829, could bring a
thousand warriors into action. He is a man of talents, and
his personal appearance is noble, and ought to represent a





THE LOWER COUNTRY.


249


nature kind and generous; but such is his character, that
his influence is retained among his people more by fear
than by affection. I saw him often, and several times at
my room, while at Fort Vancouver. On Tuesday, February 2d, I attended the funeral of his only son, the heir to his
chieftainship, a young man, who had lingered under a protracted disease. Cazenove departed from the long established custom of his nation and fathers, of depositing their
dead in canoes, and had him buried in the cemetery of the
Fort, in the decent manner of civilized people. He had the
coffin made large for the purpose of putting into it clothing,
blankets, and such other articles, as he supposed necessary
for the comfort of his son in the world to which he was
gone. Every thing connected with the ceremony of the
interment was conducted with great propriety. I was not
at the time furnished with an interpreter, but addressed
those present who understood English. Cazenove expressed
his satisfaction that an address was given, considering it a
token of respect fbr his son; and appeared solemn in his
affliction, indulging tears only, and not any loud lamenta.
tions. Had he conducted with equal propriety subsequently,
he would have been worthy of commendation. But when
he returned to his dwelling that evening, he attempted to
kill the mother of this deceased son, who was the daughter
of Concomly, and formerly the wife of Mr. McDougal.
The chiefs say, that they and their sons are too great to
die of themselves, and although they may be sick, and decline, and die, as others do, yet some person, or some evil
spirit instigated by some one, is the invisible cause of their
death; and therefore when a chief, or chief's son dies, the
supposed author of the deed must be killed. Cazenove, on
this occasion, fixed on the mother of this son as the victim
22*





250       INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY.
of his rage, notwithstanding she had been most assiduous in
her attention to him, during his protracted sickness. Of
his several wives, she was the most beloved, and his misguided mind led him to believe, that the greater the sacrifice, the greater the manifestation of his attachment to his
son, and the more propitiatory to his departed spirit. She
fled into the ivoods, and the next morning, when the gates
were opened, came into this fort and implored protection.
She was secreted here several days, until her friends at
Chenook Bay heard of her situation, and came and secretly
took her away. Some days after this, a woman was found
killed by the hand of violence, and it was supposed to have
been done by Cazenove or some one in his employ.





CONVERSATION WITH AN INDIAN.


251


CHAPTER XVIII.
Conversation with an intelligent Indian-meeting with Indiansearly and mild season-La Dalles Indians-their anxiety to receive
the gospel-Nootka humming bird-number and location of the
Indians in the lower country-Indians of the north-the agitated
question-solitariness.
A VERY intelligent and influential Indian from the Cas.
cades called at my room, on the 8th of February, to en.
quire about God. I endeavored to obtain from him his own
system of religion. He said, he believed there is a God,
and he supposed he made all things, but did not know
any thing more about him. I questioned him in regard to
his belief of a future state, and what he expected would be.
come of him when he died. He said he did not know. He
supposed that he should have an existence after death, but
did not know of what sort it would be; and wished me to
tell him. I endeavored to enlighten his mind, and to unfold
to him the great fundamental truths of God and eternity,
and the way to be saved. He listened with attention, and
appeared sober. He told me the Indians where growing
better; that they did not kill each other in wars as in times
past; that they did not rob and steal as heretofore. I told
him that was good, but to be saved they must repent and
receive the Savior by faith, as the only one who could save
sinners. So benighted are the minds of these heathen, and
so barren their language upon spiritual and invisible subjects, that I had to use such illustrations, as I judged the





252


SERVICE WITH THE INDIANS*


best adapted to convey to his mind divine truth, and I
doubt not that he received some divine knowledge.
The next day lie called again, and wished me to take his
children and teach them how to read and write, and how to
worship God. I endeavored to explain to him the object of
my tour, and that when I returned I would use my influence
to have others come and live among them. But he wanted
to have me continue with them and instruct them. And
when I told him I must go, and endeavor to get several to
come and teach in different tribes, he wished to know how
many sleeps it would take me to go, and how many sleeps
before others would come. I told him it would be a great
number. He wished to know if it would be moons. I answered in the affirmative, and told him it would be at least
two snows. He paused and looked sorrowful. His very
look affected me; he arose and went out.
Sabbath, 14th. I attended service as usual in English.
There were many Indians from the La Dalles who wished
to know if they might be present. We told them there
would not be sufficient room in the hall, but a few of their
chiefs might attend, and after the English service I would
meet with them; which I accordingly did in the afternoon.
They were punctual at the hour, and came in single file,
the first chief leading the way. When I prayed with them,
they all kneeled down except two or three, and these were
reprimanded by the chief for impropriety of conduct, which
was soberly received and implicitly obeyed. As on other
similar occasions, I endeavored to instruct them in the first
principles of our revealed religion, to which they gave close
attention. The first chief, at the close of service, wished
to speak; and on permission being given, spoke a short
time to his people, and then told me he had prayed much to





EARLY SPRING.


253


the Great Spirit, and found his heart was no better, but
worse. He said, a white man gave them a flag, and told
them to set it up on a pole, on Sundays, and meet and pray,
sing their songs, and dance around the pole bearing the flag;
and that they had done so a long time.* He wished to
know if it was right. I told him it was right to meet and
pray, and sing, and talk about God, but to dance on the
sabbath was very wrong, and would offend God. I added
farther, that they needed some person to teach them in the
right way to worship God and to be saved. He was affected, and kneeled down and with tears in his eyes said, if you
must go away, do send us some one to teach us the right
way to serve God. We will now throw away what the man
said to us about dancing. We will go to our people and
tell them what you have said, and worship God as you have
taught us. I never felt so much like weeping over the
heathen, as on this occasion; to see this poor benighted
Indian chief upon his knees, with tears in his eyes pleading
for some one to come and teach them the way to heaven.
What a spectacle for angels!
March 1st. We have many indications of the presence
of spring. The mildness of the climate, and the soft temperature of the season west of the Mountains, render it one
of the most delightful portions of our continent. The wide
and often sudden extremes of heat and cold, to which the
eastern portions are subject, are almost unknown here, and
while this is more agreeable to our feelings, it is also more favorable to health. Those who have the charge of the
* The reason assigned for including dancing in the services of the
holy sabbath, was the fear, that singing and praying without dancing,
would not interest the Indians; and to include it, would not be so
great a departure from their common practices, as to excite aversion
to pure worship.





254


LA DALLES INDIANS.


farming establishment at this place, have commenced sowing thus early their spring crops; and the gardener is preparing his ground for the seeds. The grass in the yard
begins to assume its beautiful, fresh green. The robin and
blackbird have continued here through the winter, and now,
with some others of their feathered brethren, resume their
cheerful warblings in the fields and groves. During the
winter, the thermometer has not fallen below 220 Fahrenheit,
and to this point only three days. At this date, it stood
at sunrise, at 370; at noon, 460; and at sunset, at 440.
The rains through the winter have been less constant and
heavy than I had anticipated; and snow has fallen only ten
days, some times in trifling quantities, and at no one time
over the depth of six inches, and has remained on the ground
only a few days. Some have supposed, that the genial climate of the Oregon Territory is attributable to the proximity of the great Pacific, shedding the influence of its soft
winds far into the interior. But the fact is, that almost the
only winds through the winter are easterly winds, conse.
quently coming direct from the regions of perpetual snow.
A number of the La Dalles Indians arrived to-day, who
reside eighty miles distant. One of their chiefs stated to
my friend Mr. T. that they had changed their mode of
worship; that they do not now dance on the sabbath, as
they used to do, but they meet and sing. and pray; and
that since they have been better acquainted with the way
to worship God, He hears their prayers, and that now,
when they and their wives and children are hungry, they
pray for deer, and go out to hunt, and God sends them
deer to satisfy their wants. It was interesting to know
that they were disposed to do, as well as listen to what is
taught them.





THE NOOTKA HUMMING BIRD.


Sabbath, 13th. Besides the usual service in the hall in
English, I met the Indians from the La Dalles, and endeavored to exhibit to them the great truths of the Bible. They
listened with deep interest to what I said, and then enquired
whether they might expect, after 1 should go away, that
some one would come and teach them. I could not promise,
but replied, that I hoped it would not be more than two
snows, before some one would be sent. They enquired if
after one or two sleeps, I would let them come to my room
and hear more about God. I appointed to meet them on
Tuesday afternoon, and spoke with them several succeeding times before their departure.
It seems apparent to any observing Christian, that the
present is the favorable time for the introduction of the
gospel and civilization among the natives of this wide interior. Soon the cupidity and avarice of men will make
the same aggressions here, as on the east, and the deadly influence of frontier vices will interpose a barrier to the religion which they now are so anxious to embrace and practice. Every circumstance combines to point out the time
when this work should begin, and one of the most important is that these Indians are enlisted in favor of white men,
and feel that their condition, in all respects, for this world, as
well as the coming one, is better than their own. A wellestablished Christian influence among these tribes, would
surely be respected by those who otherwise would invade
their rights, and deprive them of a home as dear to them as
our own is to us.
March 24th. The season is progressing in delightful
mildness. Flowering shrubbery and plants are beginning
to send forth their fragrance; and the Nootka humming
bird has arrived, and is seen darting from bush to bush, feed




256


THE INDIAN NATIONS.


ing upon the open flowers This most splendid species is
not known east of the mountains. The whole of the upper
part of the body is rufous, the head greenish, its throat cu
preous and metalloidal crimson, varying according to the incidence of light. The throat of this species resembles that
of the common, except, that it is even more gorgeous in its
colors, and in presenting the metallic feathers, forms a broad
ruff in the inferior part of the neck, instead of being wholly a component part of the plumage. The swallows made
their appearance on the 12th, and a new species of the
blue bird of uncommonly beautiful plumage, arrived on the
14th. The swan, several species of geese, and the sand
hill crane, are passing to the north for incubation. Their
screaming notes are constantly heard, and in the night are
not the most favorable to repose.
Before leaving the lower country, it will be proper to present, in a connected point of view, the best information I
have been able to obtain of the several nations, their locations, and numbers. There are several tribes, about whom
my knowledge is too limited, to make any definite statements. Among them are those about Pugets Sound, and
the upper part of the Cowalitz; also the Chiltz Indians,
north of the mouth of the Columbia and Chealis rivers.
And although I have seen many of the Klicatat nation, who
reside at the north of the Cascades, yet I have not been able
to learn of them any thing more definite, than that they are
a large nation. The Chenook nation resides along upon
the Columbia river, from the Cascades to its confluence with
the ocean, and though once numerous and powerful, now
number not more than fifteen hundred, or two thousand.
The Calapooah nation are located south of the Chenooks,
upon the Willamette river and its branches. They are di




THE INDIAN NATIONS.


257


vided into seventeen different tribes, under their respective
chiefs, and number about eight thousand seven hundred and
eighty persons, who speak the same language, radically, with
only a little difference in dialect. They are scattered over
a territory of two hundred miles, north and south, and sixty east and west. Their country is uncommonly good.
South of the Calapooah is the Umbaqua nation, residing
in a valley of the same name. They are divided into six
tribes; the Sconta, Chalula, Palakahu, Quattamya, and
ChastA. Their number is about seven thousand. South
of this nation and north of California, there was a very
powerful nation called the Kincli, which before the year
1829, numbered four thousand warriors. But, if they have
been swept away by sickness, as the other nations of the
lower country have, it is probable their whole number of men,
women and children, would not now amount to more than
eight thousand.
Near the mouth of the Columbia, along the coast, are the
Killamooks, who are numerous, but their numbers are not
known. South of these, and at the mouth of the Umbaqui
river, there are the Saliýtla, and two other tribes, supposed
to number 2050 persons.
This estimate of the Indians, in the lower country, makes
the number of those known, to be about twenty-five thousand. This is probably a low estimate. It may safely be
concluded from facts now collected, that there are, between
the 420 and 470 northlatitude, in what we term the lower
country, as many as twenty-five thousand more, making
fifty thousand, who at the present moment would gladly receive teachers.
Gentlemen of the Hudson Bay Company gave the follow.
ing statements of the number of Indians north of Pugets
23





258


DUELING.


Sound, viz. at Millbank Sound, three tribes, numbering
two thousand one hundred and eighty-six. At Hygana
Harbor, five tribes or bands, amounting to two thousand
ninety-two. At Queen Charlottes Island, eleven tribes,
numbering eight thousand six hundred persons. About
Hanaga and Chatham Straits, there are nine tribes, containing six thousand one hundred and sixty persons. Making the whole number of inhabitants, at and about these
places, between the 470 and 550 of north latitude, nineteen
thousand thirty-eight. At Queen Charlottes Island there is
a field of much promise for a missionary station, where the
necessaries of life could be easily obtained, and for that high
northern latitude, the climate is very mild.
Their summer and winter residences are built of split
plank, in about the same manner as those of the Chenooks.
It is said they are well supplied with fish, fowl, oil, berries,
and potatoes of superior quality and in great abundance;
and wild meat is sometimes obtained. Their dress is much
the same as what has already been described. Polygamy
prevails, and also slavery. They do not treat their slaves
as kindly, as the Indians in the lower country of the Oregon
Territory treat theirs. They think no more of killing their
slaves than the loss of property.  Sometimes when one
chief becomes offended with another, instead of fighting a
duel, he goes home and kills a certain number of slaves, and
challenges the other to kill as many. The challenged person, if he can, kills as many or more, and notifies the chal.
lenger of the number; and thus they proceed until one or
the other gains the victory; and the one who fails in this
mode of combat ceases to be a gentleman. "The point of
honor" with these barbarous gentry is fixed higher than
in our Christian country, for here the life of one satisfies





THE AGITATED QUESTION.


259


the powerful principle, but there, blood must flow profusely to
quench the noble fire of high minded revenge. They are
not unfrequently engaged in wars, which are often very
bloody.
They are much addicted to gambling, and dancing; and
it is said they excel in singing. The country is mountainous, and is generally covered with dense forests, consisting
mostly of fir.
On and about McKenzie river there are six tribes of
Indians, making a population of about four thousand two
hundred and seventy-five. The climate is very cold and
unpleasant; but as cold and uninviting as it is, the Hudson
Bay Company have found men who are willing to reside
there in sufficient nu'nbers to make six establishments, for
the purpose of obtaining the peltries which the Indians collect. Their principal establishment, which is Fort Simpson,
is on the upper part of the river and is a place of much resort for the Indians.
March 26th. Rode down once more to the lower plains,
as they are called, and was delighted with the freshness of
the wheat fields, which are beginning to wave in the gentle
breezes, and the forest trees are beginning to show their
leaves, and the plants their flowers. The sea fowl, which
through the winter covered these fields, are gone to their
summer residences, and the little feathered tribes are tuning
their notes, which though less in sound than the swan, are
yet more full of melody.
The question, to whom does this country belong? has
been, and is becoming still more, a question of general in.
terest, both in Great Britain and the United States. The
aboriginal population claim it as their own, and say, they





260


THE AGITATED QUESTION.


merely permit white men to reside among them; and since
the first discovery of the noble river, which in itself and
its branches waters almost the whole territory, these natives
have had undisputed possession. But their claim is laboriously, extensively, and practically denied; for authorities,
both of written law, and the opinion of living judges and
expositors of law, sanction the principle, that " unsettled
habitation is not true and legal possession, and that nations
who inhabit fertile countries and disdain or refuse to culti.
vate them, deserve to be extirpated." It is made, then, a
question of enquiry, whose claim to this region is best es.
tablished?  Our government claim  exclusive dominion
against any foreign power, of all the country lying between
the 42~ and 490 parallels of north latitude, by treaties with
nations who claim possessions contiguous, except Great
Britain, and who have relinquished their claims to the
country included in the above parallels of latitude; by the
discovery of the principal river by Capt. Gray of the ship
Columbia, the 14th of May, 1792; and our claim is said to
be made still further valid by interior exploration. Great
Britain, on the contrary, claims the Columbia river for her
southern boundary, by right of discovery; Capt. Brough.
ton, of the ship Chatham, having ascended the river with
two boats, as far as to where Fort Vancouver is now situ.
ated, took possession of the river and country in the name
of his Britannic Majesty, on the 31st of October, 1792.
Captain Broughton was associated with Captain Vancou.
ver of the ship Discovery, on a voyage of discovery in the
north Pacific, and around the world. The possession was
taken in his Britannic Majesty's name in due form. A
friendly old chief, who did not understand a word of their
language, nor they a word of his, was invited to join in the





SOLITARINESS.


261


ceremony, and to drink his Majesty's health. Captain
Broughton says the chief appeared much pleased with the
transaction.  But it may be a subject of enquiry, with
which the old friendly chief was best pleased, with the rum
he drank on the occasion, or with the ceremony which was
so full of import? And farther, did the chief, by partaking
of his Majesty's rum and joining in the ceremony, cede all
this country to be the bonafide property of a foreign nation?
Still Great Britain "does not set up any claim of exclusive
jurisdiction or sovereignty therein, and denies the claim of
the United States to any such sovereign jurisdiction," but
professes to claim for its subjects the right of'joint occupancy, indefinitely deferring the settlement of the question
of exclusive dominion. But these intricate questions, so
often asked, I leave to learned diplomatists to decide, after
confessing that I am not able to discover why the nations
who have, from time immemorial, occupied this country,
and who have, like other nations, their territorial limits
tolerably well defined among themselves, should not still
possess the domain which our common Creator and Benefactor has kindly given them.
The time has arrived when I expect to resume the work
of further exploration.  The weeks and months which I
have spent here have fled rapidly away, while I have been
feebly endeavoring during the winter to benefit the people
of the fort, and the Indians; and to embrace all the opportunities that should present, to collect information in those
particulars which pertain to the direct object of my tour.
I shall wander for a length of time, yet future, among the
wild scenes of nature, which have so gratified and delighted
me in traversing the wilderness of forest and prairie; but
my heart looks back to a variety of the interesting scenes
23*





262


LIBERALITYV


of civilized life and cultivated society in my own far distant
land, and I ardently desire to see the wide field lying before
me, brought under the same beauty and cultivation. All
the social affections of our nature strongly desire the happi.
ness, which refined and Christian society and its concomi.
tant blessings can alone give. A feeling of solitariness, and
of desolation comes over the mind as you stand on the banks
of the noble Columbia, and perhaps for weeks, it may be for
months, no whitened sail becomes visible to the gaze of
your watohing eye. At length a ship enters its waters, and
the Indians hasten fifty miles to tell you the white man's
great canoe, with its three upright sticks, is on its way, to
bring a new supply of blankets, beads, and tobacco. The
most unimportant incidents become interesting events, where
so much monotony exists.
Monday, 11th April. Having made arrangements to
leave this place on the 14th, I called upon the chief clerk
for my bill. He said the Company felt a pleasure in gratuitously conferring all they have done, for the benefit of the
object in which I am engaged. In justice to my own feelings, and in gratitude to the honorable Company, I would
bear testimony to their consistent politeness and generosity;
and while I do this, I would express my anxiety for their
salvation, and that they may be rewarded in spiritual bless.
ings. In addition to the civilities I had received as a guest,
I had drawn upon their store for clothing, for goods to pay
my Indians, whom I had employed to convey me in canoes,.
in my various journeyings, hundreds of miles; to pay my
guides and interpreters; and upon their provision store for
the support of these men while in. my employ..





263


DEPARTURE FOR THE UPPER COUNTRY.


CHAPTER XIX.
Departure for the upper country-American hunters-geology at the
Cascades-Indian honesty-escape in a dangerous gale-the Falls
a favorable location for a missionary station-tender sympathyfamished Indians-arrival at Walla Walla-interesting meeting of
Indians-opportunity to give them religious instruction-a walkthe nutritious quality of prairie grass.
APRIL 14th. Having exchanged farewells with the gen.
tlemen of the fort, whose kindness I shall ever remember, I
took passage in a canoe of an Indian chief belonging to the
La Dalles. Our company consisted of the chief and his
daughter, another Indian who took the bow, a half-blood,
named Baptiste, who took the stern, and two white men, who,
with the chief, helped to propel the canoe, making seven
persons. These, with the baggage of several hundred weight,
loaded the frail craft so heavily, that its sides where only
about seven inches above water. This, upon a river aver.
aging about a mile in width, with many rapids, and subject
to winds, was not a pleasant undertaking. But at this sea.
son of the year, when the Indians are about to commence
fishing, another canoe could not be obtained.
We proceeded up the river about twelve miles, to what
are called the upper plains, on the north side of the river
and encamped. This is a rich and beautiful prairie of some
miles in circumference, and at this early part of the spring
was covered with a coat of fresh green grass five or six
inches high. A little back from the river, there is a beau.





264


GEOLOGY AT THE CASCADES4


tiful lake, the resort of water fowl, which are seen exhibits
ing their unsullied plumage; and in the rear are forests of
fir, whither the deer, which crop the grass of the prairie, flee,
when they see men ascend the river's bank. A gathering
storm rendered the night dark, cold, and dreary; for as yet
Ao friendly habitations are reared upon these fertile fields
for the resort and comfort of man.
The rain continuing with some wind, we did not decamp
on the morning of the 15th, until a late hour; after which
we passed up into the mountainous part of the country be.
low the Cascades, and encamped near the high Pillar rock
which I have mentioned. Soon after leaving our encampment this morning, we met Captain W. with a small company of men in two canoes lashed together, on their way to
Fort William upon Wappatoo island. They were wet with
the rain of the morning; and their meagre countenances
and tattered garments did not speak much in favor of the
happiness of mountain life, or that they had found the hun.
ter's elysium. But they were in good spirits and passed
merrily on their way.
The basaltic rocks, which wall up the shores, in some
places two and three hundred feet perpendicular, and this
for miles, do not lose in interest by review. For more than
halfa mile the basalt presented the regular pentagons. Near
these, where the shore was inaccessible, we found a deer
almost exhausted with swimming in the cold water. Its
helpless condition and its mild, large black eye, excited by
fear, pleaded for the exercise of humanity; but our men,
instead of rendering it that assistance which it needed, shot
it, and stained the pure water of the river with its blood.
I could not help feeling a sympathy for this poor, beautiful
animal.





INDIAN HONESTY.


265


While the men, on the morning of the 16th, were engaged in taking the canoe up the rapids and the Cascades,
I walked five miles, sometimes along the shore of the river,
and sometimes climbing over precipices; and so laborious
was the task to get the canoe above all the rapids and falls,
that it occupied most of the day, giving me time for examin-*
ing the scenery around. Almost every variety of volcanic
production was seen, but basalt and amygdaloid predomi.
nated. Large quantities of petrified wood were scattered
along the shores, some of which preserved its natural ap.
pearance, but the large blocks when broken presented the
appearance of mineral coal. The scenery around is grand;
yet such was the misty state of the atmosphere about the
tops of the mountains, which were at this time covered with
snow, and the chilliness accompanying, that the enjoyment
was less than would be felt under other circumstances. Af.
ter having finished the portage by the Cascades, we launched
out upon the gentle current above, and proceeding up the
river two miles, encamped upon the north side. Several
Indians came to our encampment and manifested a kind and
sociable disposition. They told us that Captain W. the day
before, in cordelling his canoes down the Cascades, had lost
one, and with it baggage, of which they had found some
articles, that they would deliver to him when he should again
pass this way. The Indians are coming in from their win.
ter retreats, and are engaged in catching sturgeon.
The 17th being the sabbath, we did not remove. It was
a rainy day, and in the forenoon the rain came down in
torrents, which is common about these mountains through
the rainy season of the year. We were not able to make a
fire for preparing food, until after twelve o'clock, when the
rain began to abate.





266


DANGEROUS GALE.


On Monday the weather was more pleasant, and we made
very good progress up the river, through a country of diversified scenery. Though less mountainous than about the
Cascades, yet there were here mountains of interesting
forms; one was almost a perfect cone, a thousand feet high,
rising at an angle of 45 degrees, beautifully smooth and
covered with grass. We passed, a few miles above this, a
bluff presenting a perpendicular semicircle, with fissures
regularly radiating from the centre of the diameter. In
different places there were red hills of the color of well-burnt
brick. We encamped on the north side of the river, upon
a pleasant spot just above a small Indian village, where we
found a good supply of dry wood, which added to our comfort and convenience.
A wind which blew very fiesh through the night abated on
the morning of the 19th, and we proceeded on our way with
a gentle breeze, before which we spread a sail made of a
blanket. The wind continued to increase until the middle
of the day, which rendered our navigation rather dangerous. We came to a large bend in the river, and to save the
distance of coasting around, the men who rowed wished to
pass over to the south side of the river, which was here
more than a mile wide. This seemed a dangerous experiment, because the wind and waves were too high for our
deep-laden canoe; but as they were anxious to save labor,
I did not persist in my objections. We had not passed
more than half way across, before the increasing wind raised
waves which rolled and broke three times as high as our
canoe, and threatened to overwhelm us. At length the men
were not able to keep the canoe headed across the waves,
and it turned sideways to them. It seemed that nothing
short of a miraculous providence could save us. But by





DANGEROUS GALE.


267


much exertion and some abatement of the wind, we got the
canoe upon our course, and across the waves, and safely
arrived at the south shore.  But our greatest danger was
yet before us. After coasting a few miles along the south
shore, we came to a promontory called Cape Horn, a name
given it on account of the dangers of passing. It is of basaltic formation, rising, as I afterwards found by measurement, two hundred feet perpendicular upon the water's edge,
extending about a mile in length, and the lower part projecting several hundred feet into the river. The wind had
so far lulled, that we did not apprehend any danger in passing it, but when we had doubled the Cape, the wind drew
around and increased to a gale. The foaming, breaking
waves ran high, and we could not return against the wind,
and to go forward against the current was to add to the
danger of being filled, or dashed against shoreless rocks.
Such was the force of the wind, and such the efforts of the
men to keep the canoe across the waves and away from the
rocks, that in the same instant of time, the bowman and
steersman both broke their paddles, and the sail was torn away
from the left fastenings, and whirled over to the right side
of the canoe. It seemed that all hope was gone. There
were only three paddles remaining, two of which were immediately put into the hands of the steersman and bowman.
It was impossible to return, and to make progress against
the current with only such means, appeared equally impracticable.  A watery grave seemed inevitable; but by the
protecting mercy of God, when the waves broke, it was just
without the canoe. It was necessary to our safety to be
collected and fearless, and we cleared the sail, and gave or.
ders as though no danger was near.   Contrary to our
highest expectations, we continued to make headway up the





268


EXTRAORDINARY ESCAPE.


river, assisted probably by one of those large eddies, which
abound in this river, until we came to a bay with a sandy
shore, where we safely moored our frail barque, and waited
until the winds and weather became more favorable.
After the wind had in a degree abated, some Indians
came to us from the opposite shore, of whom we bought
paddles, and being again equipped for our voyage, we proceeded up the river to the La Dalles, and as far through
them as we could safely go. Here we landed and encamped on the north shore, and a number of Indians soon came
to us, whom we engaged to carry us with horses, to the navigable water above the Falls. Near this was a very large
eddy, where, two years previously, nine men were drowned.
Their bateau was drawn into it and capsized, and only one
man escaped, which he effected by clinging to a bag containing some empty kegs. He was carried a few miles
down the river, and then taken up by Indians who were
passing in a canoe.
The 20th, was occupied in passing the La Dalles and the
Falls, above which we encamped. This place affords a fa-.
vorable location for missionaries. The Indians resort here
in large numbers for fishing, and remain usually through the
summer, and some of them tnrough the year. An intercourse would be always open with surrounding tribes, and
facilities would always be at hand both to disseminate the
truths of the gospel, and to obtain the means of comfortable
subsistence.
As soon as we were encamped, the Indians, who are here
in great numbers preparing for fishing, came around us and
their first enquiry was for pi pi, (tobacco.) I am much
disgusted with this noxious plant, and am resolved to con.
sider it no longer as a necessary article, to conciliate the In.





CALL AT AN INDIAN LODGE.


269


dians by smoking the friendly pipe. If an Indian is suffering with hunger and nakedness, his first request is tobacco.
As we had parted with the Indians who came with us from
Fort Vancouver, we here engaged two others to assist us
as far as Walla Walla.
On the 21st, we took a bateau which we found here, and
progressed slowly up the river against the current and frequent rapids. On the morning of the 22d, while encamped
for breakfast, and the men were making preparation, I rambled into a little village in the neighborhood, and called at
a lodge, whose inmates consisted of an aged woman, a
younger one, and four little girls. I addressed them in the
Chenook language, but they did not understand me. Being
tolerably familiar with the language of signs, I enquired
whose were those children. The younger woman signified
that three of them were hers, but the eldest was an orphan,
whom she had adopted for her own; and in the most pa.
thetic manner she proceeded to relate her history, but little
of which was very intelligible. The aged matron sitting on
the ground of her movable lodge, with her head reclined up.
on her hand, occasionally introduced a few sentences to aid
the narration, and so tender and affecting was the whole ac.
cent and sound of their voices, I very freely sympathized
with them, and nodded my assent to all they said. I regretted the necessity which compelled me to leave them
without being able to point them to Him, who is touched
with the feelings of our infirmities, and who binds up the
broken in heart. I thought as I walked slowly back to my
prepared breakfast, how little of the savage character was
exhibited by these females, and on the contrary, how these
amiable sensibilities would have done honor to any society
of any place.
24





270


FAMISHED INDIANS.


Our encampment on the 24th, was on the south side of
the river, at a place of much resort for Indians, but who
had not come in from their winter retreat. There were
many canoes drawn up at a short distance from the shore,
and left without any apprehensions of their being stolen,
showing the confidence the Indians have in each others honesty. They do not need guards, nor bolts and bars, and
prisons.
To secure ourselves from a strong, cold wind, we selected
a place covered densely with wild broom corn of last year's
growth yet standing, and in the rear of willows which here
skirted the shore of the river. Two Indians came to our
encampment, who were as distressed objects as I have seen.
They were not more than half covered with tattered skins
of rabbits patched together; and they were emaciated with
starvation. To relieve the sufferings of such objects of
pity, the traveler needs to carry with him a store of cloth.
ing and provisions. It is distressing to see them, without
having the means of furnishing them substantial relief.
On the 25th, we made slow progress against the strong
current with our poorly manned bateau, and failing of arriving at Walla Walla as we had hoped, encamped under
the high basaltic rocks, where we found a small spot of soil
furnishing some wood. The next morning arrived at the
fort, where I met at the landing a number of Nez Perce
Indians waiting my arrival. I felt much satisfaction in
seeing them, and in witnessing their tokens of affection. It
was like meeting old friends; and there appeared to be so
much unfeigned pleasure in the reception they gave me,
that it inspired the hope, that the disposition they express
to learn the way of salvation is based on a foundation more
permanent than novelty. I had told a band of the Cayuse





FULFILMENT OF PROMISE.


271


Indians last October, on my way down the river, I would
meet them here in the spring, and talk to them about God
and the way to worship him. Many of them were here,
ready to attend to the fulfilment of my promise, and undoubtedly my arrival at the appointed time, confirmed their
confidence.
As the season is yet early, I judged it expedient to con.
tinue here a week or two and improve such opportunities
as might offer for instructing the Indians residing near this
place, and those who might come from more remote places;
making the best use of such facilities as can be obtained, with.
out waiting for the thorough knowledge of their language,
which the prudence of some persons would consider indispensible to the commencement of teaching them the way of eternal life. Their anxious curiosity to know what the religion of
the Bible is, cannot be kept awake while its gratification is
postponed. The danger that delay will result in indifference or disgust, is as great as that an early attempt to impart instruction may be connected with imperfections.
During my continuance in this place, I preached on the
sabbath morning to the white people belonging to the fort,
and in the afternoon to the Indians of the Cayuse, Walla
Walla, and Nez Perc6 tribes. They always gave good attention, and some appeared to be much interested. An instance of opposition to the truths of the gospel occurred
here, proving the truth of the scriptures, that the Savior
is set for the fall and rising of those who hear. A chief
of the Cayuses, who several times came to hear, disliked
what was said about a plurality of wives. He said he would
not part with any of his; for he had always lived in sin,
and was going to the place of burning, and it was too late
for him, now he was getting old, to repent and be saved;.





272


A WALK-GRAND SCENERY.


and as he must go to that place, he would go in all his sins,
and would not alter his life. Those who are familiar with
the various methods to which sinners resort, to avoid the
convictions of truth and conscience, may see in his deep hatred to holiness, that the operation of sin is the same in
every unsanctified heart. This is the only instance of open
opposition, that I witnessed among the Indians; nor does
it characterize the Cayuse tribe. They very much resemble the Nez Perces in their peaceable disposition, and desire
to be instructed in divine truth, and present in connection
with the Walla Wallas, a promising field of missionary
labor.
May 3d. I walked down to the passage of the Columbia through the basaltic mountain, two miles below the fort,
to take a more particular view of the scenery, than can be
taken in a hasty passage on the river. I ascended the
mountain, from the top of which I had a fine prospect of the
country around, opening in every direction as far as the eye
can reach. All parts were covered with the fresh green of
spring vegetation. Very few forests were to be seen in any
direction, excepting upon the Blue Mountains at the south;
but their distance presented more of hazy blue, than the distinctiveness of forests. Even at this distance, the perpetual snows of Mount Hood, could be distinguished at the
west, and at the north-west Mount Rainier near Pugets
Sound; and at the north and the east various parts of scattered mountains.  After some time employed in looking
around upon the vast expanse, I approached the perpendicular walls, between which the Columbia descends, which are
about three hundred feet high, as I ascertained by the number of seconds in the descent of large stones, projected
from the brink of the precipice, which I distinctly heard





NUTRITIOUS GRASS.


273;viien they struck upon the shore below. I found a great
variety of scoria and lava, the latter varying much in color
and density, some of it was sufficiently porous and light to
swim upon water. Two thirds of the way down this deep
channel, are two high eminences called the Pillars, to which
I descended. They stand upon conical bases, eighty or a
hundred feet high above the river; and above these bases
rise nearly a hundred feet perpendicular. They are indeed
remarkable; but there are so many singular formations in
this volcanic country, that curiosities become common. I
returned, though much fatigued with my long walk over
prairies, precipices, and mountains, yet much gratified with
the examination of the works of nature.
My horses and mule, which I had left with the Nez Perce
Indians, were kept in their country, one hundred and thirty
miles east of this place, and were in April brought into this
neighborhood.  To-day, May 5th, they were caught and
brought to the fort. I was surprised to find them in fine
order, with new coats, and in high spirits. They had run
out on the prairies without any shelter from the storms, and
no food, except what the remains of the previous summer's
growth afforded, together with the early grass of spring.
Who would have supposed, considering their worn down
condition, when I left them in October, that with no other
fare they would have fattened during the winter.  This
fact shows the superior mildness of the climate, and nutritive quality of the prairie grass, even after dried up with
the summer drouth. Another evidence of the truth of this
remark may be seen in the condition of the cattle kept at
this fort. With nothing more to feed upon than what they
find upon the prairies, they are now not only in good order,,
23'





274


HIGI WIND.


but some of them are actually fat, and in as good condition
for market, as oxen driven from the stalls of New England.
I rode to.day with Mr. P. ten miles up the river to the
confluence of the Lewis, or as it is called, the Nez Perce
river, with the Columbia. They are both noble streams;
the Columbia is nearly three-fourths of a mile, and the Nez
Perce a half mile wide. The prospect around is very pleasing; the soil is good, as is evidenced by the fresh verdure,
which is springing up luxuriantly, at this early season. A
large band of horses belonging to a Walla Walla chief, are
feeding here. It is a curious fact, that the Indian horses
do not often stray from the place where they are left; habit,
however produced, is as good a safeguard as inclosures.
Along upon the shores of the river, I found specimens of
calcedony and cornelian.
The sixth was a very warm day, the thermometer stand.
ing at noon, at 840. Distant thunder was heard, which is
an unfrequent occurrence west of the great mountains.
Towards and through the night the wind blew very strong.
ly, and shook the bastion which I occupied, so that it seemed
it would be prostrated to the earth; but such wind in this
particular section of country is common.
During the time of my continuance here, I had more frequent opportunities to address the Indians, and in greater
numbers, than I had anticipated. From the promise that
the word of God shall not return void, but shall accomplish
that whereunto it is sent, may not the hope be indulged, that
some good fruits will be the result of these labors. The
Walla Walla tribe, though the descendants of emancipated
slaves, are not inferior to other tribes, and are treated with
the same respect.





JOURNEY TO THE NEZ PERCE COUNTRY.


275


CHAPTER XX.
Journey to the Nez Perce country-funeral of a child-natural scene.
ry-worship on the sabbath-return to Walla Walla-industry oi
the Indians-battle ground-practice of smoking-journey to Colvile.
IN company with several Nez Perce Indians who had
come down from their own country to escort me, I commenced my journey on the ninth, and pursued the same
route by which I came last autumn.   Nothing eventful
marked our way, and we arrived at the Snake or Lewis
river the evening of the eleventh, where we found several
lodges of the Nez Perc6s, who gave us a very cordial reception, and a warm-hearted shake of the hand, the common
expression of Indian friendship. The night of our arrival
a little girl, about six or seven years of age, died, and on
the morning of the twelfth they buried her. Every thing
relating to the ceremony was conducted with great propriety. The grave was only about two feet deep; for they have
no spades, and a sharpened stick was used to loosen the
earth, and this was removed with the hands; and with their
hands they fill up the grave after the body was deposited in it.
A mat was laid in the grave, then the body wrapped in its
blanket, with the child's drinking cup and spoon made of
horn; then a mat of rushes spread over the whole, and filled
up, as above described. In this instance, they had prepared
a cross to set up at the grave, most probably having been
told to do so by some Iroquois Indians, a few of whom I
saw west of the mountains, not in the capacity of teachers,





276


NATURAL SCENERY.


but as trappers in the employ of the fur companies. One
grave in the same village had a cross standing over it, which,
together with this, were the only relics of the kind I saw,
during my travels in the country. But as I viewed a cross
of wood made by men's hands of no avail, to benefit either
the dead or the living, and far more likely to operate as a
salvo to a guilty conscience, or a stepping-stone to idolatry,
than to be understood in its spiritual sense to refer to a crucifixion of our sins, I took this, which the Indians had prepared, and broke it in pieces. I then told them that we
place a stone at the head and foot of the grave, only to
mark the place; and without a murmur, they cheerfully acquiesced, and adopted our custom.
As we proceeded up the river to the confluence of the
Cooscootske, on account of the high water, we had to pass
over the huge precipices of basalt, at the foot of which we
traveled down last fall, and which I have mentioned. We
were compelled often to approach very near the brink, where
it seemed as if we were almost suspended over the dizzy
depth of three hundred feet. We arrived at the Cooscootske early in the afternoon of the third day after leaving
Walla Walla, making the distance about 120 miles. The
whole country had put on the loveliness of spring, and divested itself of the dreariness of winter, and the grandeur
of the mountain scenery appeared to rise before me with
new freshness and delight. The Indians are assembling in
great numbers from different and distant parts of the coun.
try, to enquire about the religion that is to guide them to
God and heaven; and which they also think has power to
elevate them in the scale of society in this world, and place
them on a level with intelligent as well as Christian white
men.





THE OPTIHALLIY.


277


On the north of the confluence of these two rivers, and
down the Nez Perce, the country is diversified with hills and
mountains of a. great variety of forms, from five hundred to
two thousand feet high. The volcanic and argillaceous
strata are generally horizontal, but in some places thrown
into various degrees of inclination, from horizontal to perpendicular; in other places curved or waving. They have
all the regularity of works of art, raised up by human skill;
why should not then the power and skill of an Omnipotent
hand be acknowledged in these stupendous works?
After having been several months where the Indians of
the lower country came daily under my observation, the
contrast between them and these with whom I am now, is
very noticeable. The former are more servile and abject,
both in their manners and spirit; while the latter are truly
dignified and respectable in their manners and general ap.
pearance, far less enslaved to their appetites, or to those
vices whose inevitable tendency is to degrade. They know
enough to set some estimate upon character, and have much
of the proud independence of freemen; and are desirous of
possessing a consequence in the estimation of other people,
and for this reason, no doubt, wish to be taught, and they
receive any instruction with remarkable docility.
Saturday, May 14th.  Very many of the natives are
coming in for the purpose of keeping the sabbath with me;
but as I have little prospect of the arrival of my interpreter,
I shall probably be left to commiserate their anxiety, while
it will be out of my power to do them good.
I have frequent applications to prescribe for the opthalmy, with which the people are much afflicted, and which I
should think is a prevalent endemic. Calomel, applied in
about tie quantity of one grain to each eye, once in twenty.





278


WORSHIP ON THE SABBATH.


four hours, I found to be an efficacious remedy. No injurious effects were known to have occurred from its use, and
in most cases it was successful.
The Nez Perces have been celebrated for their skill and
bravery in war. This they have mentioned to me, but say
they now are afraid to go to war; for they no longer believe that all who fall in battle go to a happy country.
They now believe that the only way to be happy here or
hereafter, is by knowing and doing what God requires.
They have learned enough to fear the consequences of dying
unforgiven, but not sufficient to embrace the hopes and
consolations of the gospel. I have been interested to see
the reasonings of their minds, and the results of their reflections, amidst the dimness of so imperfect a knowledge as
they yet possess. It demonstrates that they are not indif.
ferent to what they hear, and that their minds are inquisi.
tive, and capable of thought and investigation. They have
obtained light sufficient, at least, to show how great is the
darkness in which they have been enveloped; and it is to
be hoped, that these efforts will be followed by those still
more efficient, until that meridian day foretold in prophecy,
shall fully come, and these heathen be given with all the
remote ends of the earth to the Savior for a possession.
Sabbath, 15th. The interpreter I had been expecting did
not arrive, and consequently much of what I wished to say
to these hundreds of Indians, could not be communicated
for the want of a medium. I felt distressed for them. They
desired to celebrate the sabbath after a Christian manner.
When the chiefs came and enquired what they should do, I
told them to collect the people into an assembly and spend
the hours of this sacred day in prayer and singing, and in
conversation on those things about which I formerly in




RETURN TO WALLA WALLA.


279


structed them. They did so, and it was truly affecting to
see their apparent reverence, order, and devotion, while I
could not but know that their knowledge was limited indeed.
The voice of their singing echoed from the hills and vales,
and I could not but hope, that the time will not be greatly
future, when they will sing with the spirit and with the understanding. As a proof that they have acquired some correct ideas of spiritual worship, in distinction from the employment of mere outward forms, Kentuc, the Indian who
attended me so faithfully on my outward route, came to me,
anxious to describe the different manner in which he regarded the worship of the two chiefs, Charlie and Teutacus.
He said Charlie prayed with his lips, but Teutacus prayed
with his heart. Confession of sin appears to occupy much
of his prayers, and if there is one among this multitude,
who it may be hoped, has been everlastingly benefited by
the gospel, I believe it is this man.
Monday, 16th. I had hitherto been somewhat undecided
what course to pursue in my future movements; but came
to the conclusion to proceed to the place of Rendezvous,
and join the returning caravan, provided I could go by the
way of the Grand Round, and to the south-west of the
Snake river, and explore a part of the country which I had
not passed through the preceding autumn. But the Indians
chose to take the retired route of the Salmon river moun.
tains, to avoid danger from hostile Indians, as it was well
ascertained that there was a party of Blackfeet warriors
ranging the territory west of the great mountains. I wish.
ed to explore the north-east branch of the Columbia, which
runs through an important part of the country, and upon
which, and its branches, many considerable tribes reside.
To return by the way my company would travel, and by





280


INDIAN INDUSTRY.


"which I came, would be to leave the object of my tour only
partially accomplished; and after canvassing the subject
as deliberately as I could, I concluded to return to Walla
Walla, procure guides and assistants, and go up the Columbia as far as Colvile, which is the highest post of the Hudson Bay Company, about seven hundred miles, by the traveled route, from the Pacific ocean. I informed the Indians
of my determination, who, though they evidently preferred
that I should accompany them, acquiesced in the decision
and showed more kindness than I had expected. They
readily appointed Haminilpilt, one of their young chiefs, to
attend me on my return down the river. After writing several letters, to forward to the United States from Rendezvous, we turned our faces to our proposed destination, and
at night arrived at the village on the Nez Percc riyer, where
we had encamped on the eleventh.
At this place I was peculiarly gratified to notice the industry of these people. Some were engaged in catching
fish, and gave me some excellent salmon; the women and
children were early out on horseback to procure the cowish
root, which they often manufacture into bread; and when
we left, only a few old persons and very young children remained in their village. Five or six miles from this village,
up a small branch of this river, we passed a spot, which
some few years ago, was a battle-field between the Nez
Perces and some other nation, whose name I could not with
certainty ascertain, but probably it was the Tuelca. The
ground was judiciously chosen by the invading party, which
was just back of a point of land coming down near the
stream of water, leaving only a narrow pass, around which
they opened a fire, while the Nez Perce2s, not expecting the
approach of a foe, were taken by surprise, and fifteen or





PRACTICE OF SMOKING.


281


twenty of their number were killed. The very spot where
each individual fell, is now designated by a pile of stones
raised three and four feet high.
The country over which we passed to-day, the distance
of forty miles, was uncommonly pleasant, diversified with
hills and valleys and covered with its self-provided carpet of
lovely green. Several Indians came on after us and traveled in company. Near night we encamped in a rich valley,
through which a considerable stream of water runs to the
north. Before it was dark, a number more, whom I recognized as former acquaintances, overtook us, apparently reluctant to separate from our company. I conversed with
them about the practice so universal among the men, of
using tobacco for smoking, a very expensive indulgence, for
which they pay almost as much as for their whole list of
comforts besides. In reply to my arguments to dissuade
them from its use, they said, "white men smoke."  I ad.
mitted the truth, but told them that all white men are not
wise in every thing they do; that they have practices among
some classes which are not good. The Nez Perces call to.
bacco, smoke, and remarked, " we are better then than
white men; for they eat smoke,"-meaning tobacco-" we
do not eat smoke."  This to be sure was an argument of
much shrewdness, and wholly unanswerable. Such is their
attachment to this stupifying vegetable, that they will part
with the last article of food or clothing, or even with their
own hands take down the poles which uphold their dwellings, and sell them for fuel to obtain it. In this viei I
regard it as a vice, from which they should be resedof if
practicable.                                  i: "
The 18th we continued our journey, and rode forty-five
miles over a more fertile tract than we passed yesterday,
25





282


RICH SOIL.


and better supplied with wood. On the upper part of the
Walla Walla river is a delightful situation for a missionary
establishment, having many advantages not found for some
distance around. It is not, however, so central for either
the Nez Perces, Cayuses, or Walla Wallas, as would be desirable, yet a mission located on this fertile field would
draw around an interesting settlement, who would cultivate
the soil, and be instructed. How easily might the plough
go through these valleys, and what rich and abundant harvests might be gathered by the hand of industry. But even
now the spontaneous productions of these vast plains, including millions of acres, are so profuse, that not the fiftieth part
becomes the food of organic life. In some places bands of
Indian horses are seen; the timid deer, or hare; the wary
marmot, and the swift gazelle. But these, with other animals and insects, consume so small a proportion, that these
wide fields are comparatively unoccupied.
We experienced a long detention on the morning of the
19th, in consequence of our horses wandering into a ravine,
to which retreat we could not easily trace them. They did
not, however, violate their rule, of making our encampment,
for the time being, their home. We rode twenty-two miles
and arrived at Walla Walla. Most of the remainder of the
week was occupied in necessary arrangements for my northeast tour, and in writing letters to friends. Mr. P. assisted
in obtaining Indian guides, and designated two French voyageurs to be my assistants; one of whom could speak some
English. I concluded to take horses, and go up through
the Spokein country, leaving the great bend of the Columbia to the left some fifty or sixty miles, and on our return
to take the river. This would give a more extended observation of the country, of the tribes who inhabit it, and of





JOURNEY TO COLVILE.


283


their condition in regard to prospects of establishing teach.
ers among them.
On sabbath, the 22d, we had worship as usual, and the
following day commenced the journey for Colvile.  Our
course was in an easterly direction forty miles, and at
night we found a new place to lay our heads for rest, in a
valley presenting all the appearance of the farmer's grass
fields, which are to be put under the mower's hand, and
from which he expects to receive a future gain. But the
natives, not appreciating these sources of profit, neglect
them altogether, and gather only a scanty living from a few
esculent roots, which grow spontaneously in the waste.


* -to




284


PALOOSE INDIANS.


CHAPTER XXI.
Paloose Indians-Pavilion river-extraordinary excavation-lost on
the prairie-Indian principle-Spokein woods and country-Indian
ferry-Spokein valley-granite-volcanic curiositics-fertile valley
-worship with the Spokeins-Mill river valley-arrival at Fort
Colvile-description of the place-leave Colvilc for Fort Okanagan
-a mountain of marble-Grand Coule, or old bed of the Columbia
-Okanagan described-Long rapids-arrive at Walla Walla.
THE morning of the 24th, we took a more northerly
course, and after traveling five hours over a somewhat high
but diversified country, descended into a fertile vale, through
which flowed a small tributary of the Snake river. Here
we found a village of Paloose Indians who are a band of the
Nez Perces. We hired them to assist us in crossing the
river, which here is a half mile wide, and has a rapid current. We had only a small canoe, which the strength of
the current carried more than a half mile down the river
before we could gain the opposite shore. Three times we
had to encounter the stream, before every thing was safely
over; and the horses made a strong effort to swim to the
opposite shore. This, together with refitting, employed several hours. We traveled up the Pavilion river, which comes
",from the high lands that divide the waters of this and the
Spokein river. This river is walled up with basalt, generally high and perpendicular, in various windings and forms,
for theistance of fifteen or twenty miles. In some places
the walls are spread out so widely as to enclose large spaces
of rich interval; in other places so closing upon the river
".:'4^f





EXTRAORDINARY EXCAVATION.


285


"as to leave only space sufficient for the river to pass. The
night was cold, the thermometer standing on the morning of
the 25th, at 340.
We pursued our way over hills and valleys of an entire
prairie, until we came to the south part of the Spokein
country. Near the summit level which divides the waters
of the Snake and Spokein rivers, there is an interesting
excavation, walled within by basaltic rocks.  The pillars
are regular pentagons from two to four feet in diameter, in
sections of various lengths, standing erect and closely joined, making a wall from fifty to one hundred feet high. The
excavated enclosure though not in a regular form, is yet
nearly entire, containing fifty or more acres. On the outside of this wall, the earth is as high as the pillars, and gradu.
ally slopes off in hills and dales. By what agency this exca.
vation was formed, no rational theory, perhaps, can be given;
for there is no appearance, as in many other places, of
volcanic craters, unless it is itself a crater, and there are
no signs of the action of water. That these walls of basalt
were forced up in dykes is rational, but this leaves still unexplained the mystery of the excavation. May it not have
been a subsidence? I passed through it leisurely, and surveyed with admiration these huge crystals, of dark materials truly, but showing not the less for that circumstance,
that certain laws govern the mineral world, as well as the
animal or vegetable. We passed to-day several small villages of the Nez Perce and Spokein nations. They all
manifested a perfectly friendly disposition, but they appear.
ed to be poor, evidently in want of a comfortable subsist.
ence. We stopped for the night, after a ride of fifty miles,
near one of these villages of Spokeins.  Their language
differs almost entirely from that of any tribe or nation I
25*





286


LOST ON THE PRAIRIE.


have yet seen. One of my Indian guides was sufficiently
acquainted with their language, to inform them of the object of my tour through their country, with which they
were not only satisfied, but apparently interested.
We took an early departure on the morning of the 26th, but
traveled only a few hours before my Indian guides lost the
track and the course they should pursue. Becoming confident that they were not right, I alighted and set my pocket
compass, and discovered that instead of a north-east direction, they were going west. Enquiring of them if they
knew where to find our course again, a young chief putting
his hand to his head, and with gestures expressing the con.
fusion of his mind, answered, waiitu en soko, " I do not
know."  Our situation was rather embarrassing. We
had very injudiciously left our rifles behind, and at about an
equal distance from Walla Walla and Colvile, on a widely
extended prairie, with provisions adequate to our wants on.
ly for two days, and no probable means for obtaining more
until we should arrive at the fort; to be lost under these circumstances was no pleasant affair. The point of a high
mountain we had passed was in view, and we might retrace
our path, and therefore 1 was determined not to lose sight
of this land-mark, until we should find the trail leading to
the Spokein river. While my guides went off in search of
it, I could hardly fail to find even in our circumstances,
some amusement in the apathy of my two Frenchmen.
They are so confiding in Indian skill to find their way
through any country, as by intuition, that they will sing or
go to sleep with the same heedless indifference when lost in
a wide wilderness, as when launched upon the waters of a
well known river, or performing the duties of the fort. They
appear wholly unconscious of danger on the approach of





THE SPOKEIN WOODS.


287


hunger and starvation, until long after the last mnorsel is consumed, and never borrow from futurity to add to the evils
that afflict them to.day. On this occasion these men spent
the time of our detention in calm repose. After some time
our guides returned and told me they had found some Spo.
kein Indians about a mile distant, who vwere traveling towards the south, but had then stopped to refresh their
horses.  We proceeded to the place, and I engaged one of
them to assist us in finding the way to the main trail, or to
the Spokcin river, lie was a tall, intelligent looking man.
He mounted his horse, and set off with such speed, that, jaded as our horses were, it was with difficulty we could keep
up with him. After going at this rate more than an hour,
he stopped, and pointed us to a lake, and said we should
find the great trail on the east side. Lest we should again
lose our way, I was anxious to have him conduct us to their
village on the river, but could not prevail upon him to go
any farther, although I offered him a large compensation.
His only, and unvarying answer was, that he had done for
us all that was needed, and why should he perform any unnecessary labor for us and take pay. It appeared to be a
principle with him, that it would be wrong for him to take
pay for what we did not need. I was astonished at the honesty of this heathen, and his steadfast adherence to it, when
I remembered how many there are in civilized lands, who,
to be well paid, would lengthen a service to an unnecessary
extent, and artfully deceive you to make you believe it very
important. For his faithfulness and honesty I not only paid
him on the spot to his satisfaction, but afterward sent him
a present of powder and balls, articles highly valued.
Without any farther difficulty, we arrived at the Spokein
river, at four o'clock, P. M. A few miles after we left the





288


SPOKEIN VALLEY.


lake, we entered the Spokein woods which are very exten,
sive, consisting of yellow pitch and elastic pine, some hem.
loc, spruce, and fir, together with various shrubbery. These
are the woods in which Ross Cox was lost, about the cir.
cumstances of which he gives a very interesting descrip.
tion, but which, so far as I have yet had an opportunity
to judge, contains far more fiction than truth. But his mul.
titude of growling bears, and howling wolves, and alarming
rattle-snakes, of which I have seen only one, may yet come
out from their lurking places in hostile array.
When we came to the river, which is about thirty rods
wide, we hallooed a long time for the Indian who keeps a
canoe ferry, but without success. At length two women
came to the river, and with uncommonly pleasant voices,
together with the language of signs, the latter of which
only I could understand, informed us that the ferryman was
gone upon a short hunt, would return in the evening, and
the next morning at sun two hours high, he would come
and take us over. I never heard voices more expressive of
kindness. I requested them to paddle the canoe over to us,
and my men would perform the labor of ferrying over our
baggage. They declined on account of the rapidity and
strength of the current, the river being in full fieshet.
Therefore we had to encamp and wait for the morning.
This is a very pleasant, open valley, though not exten.
sively wide. The North-west Company had a trading post
here, one bastion of which is still standing. These woods
present a fine range for the ornithologist. The magpie is
seen in great numbers, flying from tree to tree, vociferating
their chattering notes. Also thrushes, warblers, and wrens
are numerous, cheering those otherwise solitary wilds with
their delightful songs, grateful to the weary traveler. Their





SPOKEIN VALLEY.


289


carols appear to be designed to animate each other in their
intervals of labor, while constructing their fabric admirably
adapted for the habitation of their tender offspring; on an
examination of which, the most infidel philosopher must be
astonished, and be constrained to acknowledge, that God
has manifested himself in supplying, instead of reason, a
mysterious, unerring instinct, always sufficient for the end
to be accomplished.
On the 27th, about the time in the morning mentioned by
the two women, the Indian ferryman came, and crossed the
river in his canoe. His appearance, together with that of
his canoe, reminded me of AEneas' ferryman, who carried
him over the Stygian lake..
"Canites inculta jacct;
Sordidus ex huncris nodo dependet amictus,
Cceruleam advertit cymbam, riptque propinquat."
After the river, we crossed the valley of level alluvial
soil, where it is about a mile and a quarter wide, and the
east side especially is very fertile. Here the village of the
Spokeins is located, and one of their number has commenced the cultivation of a small field or garden, which he has
planted with potatoes, peas, and beans, and some other vegetables; all of which were flourishing, and were the first
I had seen springing up under Indian industry west of the
mountains. Our ferryman conducted us through the valley
to the foot of the mountain on the east, and pointed out the
trail we should pursue. As we wound our way up the mountain, I looked down into the vale we had crossed, and which
stretches along the winding river, and drew in my imagination a picture of what this valley will be, when this people
are brought under the influence of Christianity and civili.





290


VOLCANIC CURIOSITIES.


zation. This section of country presents less appearance
of volcanic operation; and in several places I found granite in its natural form and position, which resembles that
found in the Eastern States. When we had arrived at the
height of this mountain, we came to a sandy plain, several
miles wide, covered with yellow pine forming an open woods.
Over parts of this plain were scattered volcanic eruptions
of singular formation. Hundreds of regular cones of various
magnitudes, from those of only a few feet in diameter and
height, to those a hundred in diameter and sixty feet high.
They all had the same appearance, only differing in magni.
tude; and were composed of broken granite, in angular
pieces, from those that were very small, to six or eight inches
in diameter, and on the outside were nearly black, as if co.
lored with rising smoke. They had more the appearance
of being broken by manual labor, and piled up for future
use in constructing roads or wharves, than the result of internal fires, and yet no other cause but the latter can be
assigned. The sandy plain around them was undisturbed,
and large pine trees growing about them as in other places.
At the south of these were large rocks of granite, and in
one place a basaltic dyke extending a hundred rods or more.
After passing this plain, we descended and came again to
the Spokein river, which makes a bend around to the north.
east.  In this place the valley is less extensive, and the
mountains more precipitous. We again ascended the mountain, upon which granite and mica slate prevail, without
any volcanic appearances. From this we descended into
a rich valley, which was covered with a luxuriant growth
of grass, though but just springing up. This valley has the
appearance of having been a lake filled up with mountain
deposits. In the centre is a small lake, from which pro




ANXIETY OF THE SPOKEINS.


291


ceeds a rivulet passing out at the south-west; and leaving
this place, we wound around a mountain in a northerly direction, down a valley less fertile but more extensive, and
at four in the afternoon came to a stream of water, coming
from the mountains at the east, where our guides said we
must stop for the night.
Near evening, several companies of Spokein and some
Nez Perce Indians came riding into the place of our encampment, and turned out their horses with ours in the half
wood and prairie. The Spokeins, who had seen me on my
way, and had learned who I was, sent information out to the
various hunting parties, that a minister was passing through
their country, and as it was the first time any one was ever
among them, they wished to see him and hear what he had
to say to them. They brought with them a good interpreter, a young man of their nation, who had been in the school
at the Red river settlement on the east side of the mountain, and had obtained a very good knowledge of English.
We had public worship that evening in the Spokein and
Nez Perce languages. One of the Nez Perces, a chief who
understood the Spokein language, collected his people a little
to the left of the Spokeins, and translated the discourse as it
was delivered, into the language of his people, without any
interruption to the service. This was a plan of their own
devising. All the circumstances combined were to me very
interesting. Providences above my control had delayed me
three several times, and thus given them an opportunity to
collect their people and overtake me. Some of them had
pursued my path a day and a half, and were unwilling to
return, being resolved to accompany me to Colvile. These
benighted Indians manifested the same solicitude to hear the
gospel that others have done before. And as a most affecting





292


MILL RIVER VALLEY.


proof that the impressions then made on their minds were
not momentary, they went home and erected in their village
a church, constructed of rude materials surely, but designed,
as they said, to furnish a place, that when the next missionary should arrive, he might stop and teach them.*
The morning of the 28th was cloudy and some rain fell,
but this did not prevent our early departure; for it was necessary to be on our way, as my men had the evening before
consumed their entire stock of provisions, and, whatever
might occur, we could procure no more until we should
reach Colvile. We could not obtain any game; for being
advised by the superintendent at Walla Walla not to en.
cumber ourselves with rifles, we had unwisely left them
behind. After traveling a few miles in an easterly direction we came to a very fertile valley, well adapted to cultivation, extending north and south at least fifty miles, and of
various extent in width, from a half mile to two. The
valley is an open prairie well supplied with grass, and even
in this high latitude of 480, cattle could do well through the
whole year, without the labor of cutting hay. The hills on
each side are covered with woods. As we proceeded down
this valley, we came to villages of Indians who understood
the Spokein language, but belonged to another tribe, probably to the Coeur d'Alene. Near their principal village
we came to Mill river, which was in fill fresh. They had
no canoes, and we found difficulty in getting my baggage
across. But the Nez Perc6 chief took part of it upon his
shoulders, mounted his horse, and swam over, and crossed
* The name of this nation is generally written Spokan, sometimes
Spokane. I called them Spokans, but they corrected my pronunciaation, and said Spokein, and this they repeated several times, until
I was convinced that to give their name a correct pronunciation it
should be written Spokein.





FORT COLVILE.


293


and re-crossed until all was upon the other side. I then
crossed upon a pole, which was not the most desirable method,
but still it was preferable to a cold bathing on horseback.
After pursuing our course a few miles farther, I divided my
remaining stock of eatables with my destitute French and
Indian attendants, leaving the anticipation of our next meal
to the time when, after a long day's industrious travel, we
should find ourselves safely at Colvile.
Towards the lower part of the valley, through which we
were passing, the land is remarkably fertile. A missionary located here would have easy access to the Spokein,
Sapwell, Sintou-tou-oulish, Kettle falls, Lake, Cceur d'Alene,
and Pondera Indians. I know not of so important a field
within two hundred miles, presenting the natural advantages of mild climate, good soil, and forests.
We arrived at Fort Colvile late in the afternoon, after a
weary journey of sixty miles. The situation of this fort is
on an elevated spot, about fifty rods from the river, surrounded by an alluvial plain of rich soil, and opening in
every direction, an extended prospect of mountain scenery;
and a half mile below are Kettle falls, above which the river spreads out widely, and moves slowly, until just above
the precipice it contracts into a narrow channel, and disappears from the view of the spectator at the fort, until
seen winding its way among rocks below. This establishment is built for defence and is well stoccaded, but so
friendly have the natives always been, that no wars have
ever occurred among them. It is occupied by some half
dozen men with Indian families, and is well supplied with
the usefiul animals and fowls common to farming establish.
ments. The winter and summer grains, together with garden vegetables, are cultivated with success and in profusion.
26





294


WORSHIP AT THE FORT.


This place does not suffer with summer drouth, like many
other parts of this country, and rains are of frequent occurrence; the seasons here not being marked, as on the
lower parts of the Columbia, by wet and dry.
I was much disappointed in not finding Mr. McDonald,
the superintendent of the fort, at home. He had left a few
days before with a brigade for Fort Vancouver; but the
kindest attention was paid me by those who had the charge
of the fort. I found here an old man, who thirty years before, accompanied Lewis and Clarke across the continent,
and had for several years past taken up his residence here.
He is in the employ of the fur company, and acts as inter.
preter to the neighboring Indians.
On sabbath the 29th, the people of the fort who under.
stood English, assembled, and we worshiped the God of our
lives, who had protected us hitherto, and from different nations had collected us in a little group in this region of the
world. The Indians too came about me and expressed great
anxiety to be taught the revealed will of God. They endea.
vored to make me understand what their former traditionary
belief and practices had been, and to let me know, that
what they had learned from me was reasonable and satisfactory to them, and that they wished to know all that related to so important and momentous a subject. But our
medium of communication was inadequate to a full disclosure of that most interesting truth, that God so loved the
world that he gave his only Son to die for its redemption.
Wherever I have met with the natives of this distant region they have invariably, with earnestness and with importunity, asked the gift of the gospel from the hands of
Christians. But how little of the faith, and love, and liberality of the church is invested in the most profitable of all





JOURNEY DOWN THE COLUMBIA.


295


enterprises, the conversion of the world. Should some one
propose the construction of a rail road from the Atlantic
to the Pacific, and demonstrate the practicability of the
measure, and show that nature has interposed no effectual
barrier, and that it would concentrate not only the whole
internal, but also the China trade, and the stock would produce annually a rich dividend, how soon would Christians
engage in it.
Monday the 30th of May, we commenced our journey
down the Columbia. The brigade having taken all the
boats from this place on their late passage to Fort Vancou.
ver, we were compelled to take horses for Okanagan. I
changed my guides for two others; one a Spokein, and the
other a Paloose; retaining my two voyageurs. As we left
Fort Colvile we had a fine view of Kettle falls. The Co.
lumbia was in its freshet, and as it rolled down in a broken
cataract for the distance of one hundred feet, it was a su.
blime spectacle. The whole scenery as we proceeded down
the river was marked by variety, wildness, and romantic
grandeur, as if the hand of nature, in decking these remote
regions, had consulted for her own amusement some of her
most playful and tasteful fancies. The mountains around
are constructed on a scale of magnificence, presenting al.
most all the varieties of elevation, precipice, and forest.
This is the country which by more than one of my prede.
cessors in travel, has been celebrated as the abode of wolves,
bears, and rattle.snakes, to an extent that renders it almost
impenetrable, by ordinary courage; but we found no indications of the presence of these animals before this evening, when the distant barking of a prairie wolf, for once,
interrupted the universal silence by which we were surrounded.





296


LOCATION OF MARBLE.


After a few hours ride, on the morning of the 31st, we
re-crossed the Spokein river just above its entrance into the
Columbia. This large valley is capable of supporting a
much more numerous population than now obtain a subsistence by hunting and fishing. The Indians residing here
afbfrded us very cheerfully all the assistance we needed in
ferrying the river. In the neighborhood of this place I discovered a mountain of rich and very beautiful saccharine
marble, situated on the south side of the Columbia river;
some sections are pure white, while others are beautifully
clouded with blue and brown. It effervesced freely with
sulphuric acid. This will in time become very valuable;
for being upon navigable waters, it can be transported into
various countries. Several miles below this marble location I was interested witl the juxtaposition of granite and
basalt. It was on an elevated piece of land one hundred
and fifty feet above the river. Near the river there were
large quantities of solid granite in its natural position, without any appearance of ever having undergone an igneous
influence, and near by to the left was a stupendous dyke of
basalt rising two hundred feet, presenting the appearance of
having been thrown up by several successive volcanic eruptions; the earth on the back side gradually rising to a
mountain.
At this place we left the river, to save traversing a great
bend, and took a westerly course, expecting to reach it
again before night. We pursued our way over an elevated
prairie, destitute of wood and water. It became evident
that night would overtake us before we could reach the river,
unless we should urge forward with all the speed that humanity for our horses would permit. Before five o'clock
we came near to the great gulf walled up with basalt, which





GRAND COULE.


297


as we supposed, embosomed the deep-flowing Columbia.
Our next object was to find a place where we could descend
to its shores. After ranging along two or three miles, we
found a descent by a ravine; but to our disappointment it
was the Grand Coule, which was undoubtedly the former
channel of the river. With considerable difficulty we wound
our way into it, and found it well covered with grass, and
by searching, obtained a small supply of water. This quondam channel of the river is nearly a mile wide, with a level
bottom, and studded with islands. Its sides are lined, as
the river itself is in many places, with basaltic rocks, two
and three hundred feet perpendicular. This Coule sepa.
rates to the left from the present channel of the Columbia,
about one hundred miles below Colvile, and is about one
hundred in length, when it again unites with the river.
The basaltic appearances are exhibited here as in other
places, furnishing evidences of eruptions at different periods of time. A peculiarity in this instance was a stratum
of yellow earth, eight or ten feet in thickness between the
strata of basalt. Those who have traveled through the
whole length of the Coule, represent it as having the same
general features throughout, while the whole distance of the
river around to the place where it again unites, as I know
from personal observation, has not the peculiarity of a deep
channel, cut through the rocks. We left the Grand Coul6
early on the morning of the 1st of June, and with difficulty
ascended the western bank. Before noon my guides lost
the way to Okanagan, and wandered far out upon the wide
prairie where there was no water. Losing my confidence
in their knowledge of the country, except on some frequented track, I directed my course for the river; and perceiving
a snow-topped mountain in the distance, I concluded the
26*





*


298               FORT OKANAGAN.
river must lie between it and ourselves, and accordingly
made it my land-mark.   Pursuing this direction a few
hours with rapid speed, we camne to a slope which gradually
narrowed into a ravine, and introduced us at length to a
spring of water. Our thirsty horses rushed into it, and it
was with difficulty we could control their excess in drinking. We followed this ravine, the water of which continu.
ally gained accessions until it became a large stream, with
a rich valley of alluvial bottom, and united its waters with
the Columbia, a few miles above Fort Okanagan, the place
of our destination.
Fort Okanagan is situated on the north side of the Columbia, above the confluence of the Okanagan river, from
which, and from the Indians residing in its vicinity, the
fort takes it name. It was first built by Mr. David Stuart, a partner of the American Fur Company, in 1811.
There is an open space of considerable extent around, the
soil is of an inferior quality, hard and gravelly, but produ.
cing grass to supply the cattle and horses belonging to the
station. A few fertile spots of alluvial soil are found in the
vicinity. The Columbia does not appear to have continued so long in its present channel, after leaving the Grand
Coule, as to form those extensive alluvial bottoms which
exist in many other parts of its course. After leaving the
Spokein woods there is very little forest to supply timber
for fuel, fencing, or building. They are dependent on floodwood which descends the river for their ordinary fuel, and
the freshets generally furnish a large supply. Not far distant, at the north there are snow-topped mountains, yet the
country here is not remarkably mountainous. At this place
I had an opportunity to see some of the Okanagan tribe.
Their personal appearance is less noble than the Spokeins,





OKANAGAN INDIANS.


299


but they are not less peaceable, friendly and honest in their
dispositions. This is evident from the fact that the charge
of the fort in the absence of Capt. Ogden, the superintendent, was committed temporarily to a Frenchman, and several of the Indians. This tribe with the Shooshaps number
about two thousand persons. They are much employed in
the salmon fishery, and large quantities are prepared by
drying for their winter's use. Their country does not
abound in game, and hunting occupies but little of their
time. The climate here, as in other parts of the Oregon
Territory, is very mild and salubrious.
Wishing to pursue my way down the river, I hired two
Indians to assist my two Frenchmen in navigating a bateau
which we obtained at this place; and committed our horses
to my Indian guides to take them across the country to
Walla Walla. My confidence in the honesty of these men
was without any suspicion, and I could trust them with
our six horses, saddles and bridles, to go on any enterprise
within their capacity to accomplish. They have so much
self-respect that they would not on any account commit a
crime, which would expel them from their people, induce
them to seek concealment, or abridge their liberties as free.
men.
We embarked in our boat June 2d, to perform a voyage
of four hundred miles, with tle river in full freshet; and its
strong current increased by high water, secured to us a velocity beyond the ordinary. We passed several rapids, and
dashed over the breaking surges, where the least mismanagement would have caused inevitable submersion, without
any prospect of escape.  But my voyageurs showed by
their adroitness at the oar, that they were upon their favor.
ite element, and their gayety and songs began to revive, onr





300


PETRIFIED TREE.


being relieved from the rough, and to them, unpleasant jour.
ney on horseback, over hills and down ravines, and through
forests. The elasticity of their native character was alt
most immediately apparent, and we glided on with celerity,
making a voyage of one hundred miles before it was necessary to seek our safety for the night on shore. The country through which we passed to-day was rather mountainous. 1 saw many locations of granite in its natural state,
but as we proceeded, volcanic operations began to appear,
and the granite exhibited the effects of intense heat, until
it wholly disappeared, and breccia, amygdaloid, basalt, and
lava took its place. In the afternoon we passed a section
of rock, perpendicular two hundred and fifty feet; half way
to the top of which, a petrified tree of considerable magni.
tude is suspended. It appears to be retained in its place by
having its roots inserted in the crevices of the rocks, between the layers of different eruptions. How it procured
its elevated situation is quite a mystery. It could not have
vegetated there, unless at the time of its growth, it was sup.
ported by a surface upon which to rise; and taking the pre.
sent condition of the rocks, it could not be deposited there
by any floods of the river, and certainly it could not in such
case, intertwine its roots in the crevices of the rocks. Gentlemen of the Hudson Bay Company, and others who navigate this river, have amused themselves by shooting off
pieces with their rifles, and they assured me it was wholly a
petrifaction. Our encampment this evening was a few miles
above the Long Rapids, which extend nine miles.
On the 3d, as we approached the Long Rapids about fifty
miles above Walla Walla they presented the appearance of
waves rolling under a strong breeze of wind, and their distant murmur broke upon the stillness of the morning. To





LONG RAPIDS.


301


pass them without fear, is an undertaking which requires
courage and self-possession; but knowing that these inland
navigators are experienced in all the dangers of boating ex.
cursions, I had but little drawback upon the pleasure I anticipated in a swift descent over them. With much care
and exertion of my men we safely outrode them, a distance
of nine miles, in forty minutes. It is this variety of falls,
cascades, and rapids, together with the ever-varying scenery of nature's wildest and grandest forms, that keeps the
mind from wearying, and awakens almost perpetually some
new emotions and energies, while performing a voyage of
several hundred miles in open bateaux or light canoes. Not
unfrequently in the stillness and solitude of the river, when
it assumed its more placid features, such a sense of security
is enjoyed, that a resort to books, to assist in a profitable
disposition of time, is pleasant.
Through the distance of about one hundred miles we
passed to-day, the country is level and destitute of wood. I
observed a bank of clay in layers of diversified structure,
resembling the basaltic strata which I have often noticed.
The different sections were of various colors; some dusky
red, some yellow, and blue, and others white, making an
upriglt elevation of one hundred feet or more. Salmon are
ascending the river in great numbers, and groups of Indians
are scattered along pursuing the employment of catching
them. Wherever we passed them, they came off in their
canoes, bringing salmon to sell, some of which were roasted
in the best manner, and served up on broad pieces of bark,
which answered a good purpose in the absence of plates;
and often large leaves of plants were spread neatly upon the
bark. My voyageurs found sufficient employment in the





302           ARRIVAL AT WALLA WALLA.
gratification of their appetites, to interrupt for a while their
anecdote and song. We arrived at Walla Walla at evening,
just in season to find a shelter from one of the most violent
thunder storms, accompanied with wind, which I have witnessed in this country. Such storms are of rare occurrence
west of the mountains.





SNAKE INDIANS,


303


CHAPTER XXII.
A summary of the Indians of the Upper country-names of the tribes,
their locations and numbers-leave Walla Walla for Fort Vancouver-swift passage down the river-run the Falls-Cascades-dangerous eddy-arrive at Vancouver-steam-boat excursion.
HAVING traveled over the most important parts of the
upper country, and collected the facts of its physical condition, together with the location, character, and condition
of the most numerous tribes of Indians; before leaving
this section of the territory west of the Rocky Mountains
it may be proper to give a connected summary of these particulars. On the south part of the Oregon Territory, ad.
joining Upper California, are located the Shoshones or
Snake Indians. I was not able to gain knowledge of their
definite numbers, but the general estimate is that they are
more than ten thousand. Their country is decidedly the
most barren, west of the mountains; most parts being covered with scoria and other volcanic productions. These
Indians are poor, and as indicative of their condition and
their resources, they are called Snake Indians, and Root.
diggers. Some of them go to the mountains and hunt buffalo, and they very generally resort to the river in the season of fishing. They have a tolerable supply of horses.
When they go to Rendezvous they make a great display,
advancing on horseback, dressed in their most fantastical
manner, exhibiting all their ornaments of feathers, beads,
wolf-tails, teeth and claws of animals, arranged according





304


INDIANS-DIFFERENT TRIBES.


to their notions of good taste. TheirAvarriors are armed,
hideously painted, and those who have been wounded in battle are very fond of showing their scars. After coursing
around and through the camp of Rendezvous for some time,
they dismount and go through the ceremony of. shaking
hands. I had also an opportunity of seeing many of the
Utaws at Rendezvous. Their country is situated to the
east and south-east of the Shoshones, about the Salt Lake
and on the head waters of the Colorado river, which empties
into the gulf of California. They number nearly four thousand persons, and appear to be a mild and peaceable people,
honest, kind, and hospitable to strangers, and affectionate
among themselves. They live by hunting, fishing, and
gathering roots and berries. Their dress is plain, and their
manners are unassuming. Their country being in latitude
about 410, has a fine climate, and good soil.
Proceeding north, we come to the country of the Nez
Perces, which has many fertile parts adapted to tillage and
is throughout a fine grazing country. They number about
two thousand five hundred; but they have already been often
mentioned.
The Cayuses are situated to the west of the Nez Perces,
and very much resemble them in person, dress, habits and
morals. They are equally peaceable. honest and hospitable to
strangers. They number more than two thousand persons.
Their wealth consists in horses, which are unusually fine
and numerous; it being no uncommon thing for one man to
own several hundred. Their country, especially that about
the Grand Round, is uncommonly fertile, producing spontaneously cammas in great abundance, upon which, with
fish and some game, they principally subsist. They express
the same anxiety to be instructed in the way of salvation as
the Nez Perces and Flatheads.





INDIANS-DIFFERENT TRIBES.


305


The Walla Walla Indians inhabit the country about the
river of the same name, and range some distance below
along the Columbia river. The number of persons in this
tribe is about five hundred. In their character, employments and moral habits, they do not materially differ from
the last named tribes.
The Paloose tribe are properly a part of the Nez Perces,
and in all respects are like them. Their residence is along
the Nez Perc6 river and up the Pavilion. They number
about three hundred. The four last named tribes speak the
same language with a little dialectical difference.
North-east of the Palooses are the Spokein nation. They
number about eight hundred persons, besides some small
tribes adjoining them who might be counted a part of their
nation. I have so fully described them that it is unnecessary to enlarge upon their character. Their country is
very much diversified with mountains and valleys, prairie
and woods; and a large part is of primitive formation; and
some parts are very fertile. They denominate themselves
the children of the sun, which in their language is Spokein.
Their main dependence for subsistence is upon fishing and
hunting, together with gathering roots and berries. I have
stated that a commencement is made in agriculture, which
it may be hoped will be generally adopted, so that their present precarious mode of living may give place to that which
will be substantial. They have many horses, but not so numerous as their neighbors farther south.
East of these are the Cceur d'Alene Indians, whose num.
bers are about seven hundred, and who are characterized
by civility, honesty, and kindness. Their country is more
open than the Spokeins', and equally, if not better adapted
to agriculture.
27





306


INDIANS-A CHIEF'S ANECDOTE.


The country of the Flatheads is still farther east and
south-east, and extends to the Rocky Mountains. They
are a very interesting tribe; dignified in their persons, noble, frank, and generous in their dispositions; and have always shown a firm attachment to white men. They number about eight hundred persons, and live a wandering life.
For subsistence they follow the buffalo upon the head waters
of Clarke and Salmon rivers, and often pass over to the
head waters of the Missouri. They have become a small
tribe by constant wars with the Blackfeet Indians; not that
they themselves are of a ferocious or hostile disposition.
Being averse to war, they wish to settle upon their lands, and
are only waiting to be instructed in the arts of civilization,
and in Christianity.
Their country is mountainous, but intersected with pleasant, fertile valleys, large portions of which are prairie.
The mountains are cold, but in the valleys the climate is mild.
An anecdote was related by a chief of this nation, which
illustrates their native character, and the propensity of Indians to imitation. He said the first white men he saw,
was when he was young. It was summer. He said, " These
are a new people, they look cold, their faces are white and
red; go make a large fire, and I will ask them to come and
warm them." In a short time his people had made a fire,
and brought new buffalo robes. The white men came into
his lodge and he wrapped them in the robes and seated them
by the fire that they might be warm. The robes slipped
off; he replaced them. Soon the white men made signs to
smoke their pipe. The chief thought they asked for food,
and brought them meat. The white men gave him the pipe
and they smoked, and after this they loved smoke, and they
loved the white men, and said they were good.
The Ponderas are so near like the Flatheads in person,





INDIANS-DIFFERENT TRIBES.


307


manners, and character, that a particular description of
them may be passed over. They number about two thousand two hundred, and live on the north of Clarke's river,
and on a lake which takes its name from the tribe. Their
country has many fertile parts, and would soon be put under cultivation, if they could obtain instructors to teach
them agriculture and to impart to them a knowledge of those
things which are necessary to constitute a happy and pros.
perous community. Their language is the same as the
Spokeins' and Flatheads'. The Cootanies inhabit a section
of country to the north of the Ponderas along M'Gillivray's
river, and they are represented as an uncommonly interesting people. They speak a language distinct from all the
tribes about them, open and sonorous, and free from guttu.
rals, which are common in the language of the surrounding
tribes. They are neat in their persons and lodges, candid
and honest, and kind to each other. I could not ascertain
their numbers, but probably they are not over a thousand.
There are several other tribes of Indians, whose countries
are situated upon the waters of the north-east branch of the
Columbia river, resembling each other so nearly in their
customs, morals, manners, and mode of living, that it is unnecessary to go into a particular description of each, separately. I will mention the names, locations, and number
of some of the principal. North of the Cootanies are the
Carriers, whose number is estimated to be four thousand;
and south of these are the Lake Indians, so named from
their place of residence, which is about the Arrow lakes.
They are about five hundred in number. At the south, and
about Colvile, are the Kettle Falls Indians, who number five
hundred and sixty. West of these are the Sinpauelish, one
thousand in number; and below these are the Shooshaps,





308


DESCEND THE RIVER.


having a population of five hundred and seventy-five. At
the west and north-west, next in order are the Okanagans,
numbering one thousand fifty. To the north and west are
several tribes, about whom I obtained no definite information.
Between Okanagan and the Long Rapids are detachments
of Indians, who appear poor, and wanting that manly and
active spirit, which characterizes the tribes above named.
South of the Long Rapids, and to the confluence of Lewis'
river with the Columbia, are the Yookoomans, a more active
people, numbering about seven hundred. The whole number of the above named Indians is thirty-two thousand five
hundred and eighty-five. This is probably a low estimate,
and in the number, there are not included the Fall and LaDalle Indians, and many other numerous tribes residing at
the north and south of the Falls of the Columbia, whose
numbers I could not with certainty ascertain. We might
more than double this number, and probably still come below the population of the upper country.
The Indians to whom our horses were entrusted, came in
safely, as I expected. After resting on the sabbath, we renewed, on Monday the 6th, our voyage down the river,
having Fort Vancouver for our next destination. We exchanged the bateau for a large canoe, retaining the men
who attended me from Okanagan. Assisted by the high
water, we made rapid progress until three in the afternoon,
when a strong head wind compelled us to take to the land
for the remainder of the day, having gone seventy-five miles.
The Indians as usual came to us in their friendly manner,
offering us salmon, and asking tobacco, which they esteem
more highly than either gold or silver. They have been
accustomed to traffic in this commodity, until they expect
it of every passing traveler.





IUN THE FALLS OF THE COLUMBIA.


309


The morning of the 7th was more calm, and we got un.
der way at an early hour, but with the rising day the wind
again increased to such a degree, that we were obliged to
suspend our voyage. After a strenuous endeavor to effect
a landing on the north, we were at length driven across to
the opposite shore; and here for the first time in all my
travels, I found it impossible to pitch my tent, such being
the strength of the wind, that it would have been carried
away. The canoe was drawn upon the shore, and wrap.
ping myself in my blankets and buffalo robes, I laid me
down in safety by the side of the canoe. We had here, as
at all our other landing places, the usual friendly visit from
the neighboring Indians.
The following day we were able to resume our journey,
and passed the rapids, which in the tempest of yesterday,
looked so forbidding. A little caution on the part of my
experienced Frenchmen in regard to the numerous islands
and eddies, enabled us to effect the passage in perfect safety.
In a short time we approached the falls of the Columbia,
which, in low water are twenty feet perpendicular, followed
by raging rapids below, but now in the high freshet season
they are passable by the descending boats when not heavy
laden. Bousheau, my steersman, proposed to run them, and
while I was revolving in my mind the chances of safety,
and thought of going on shore, before I anticipated, we were
between breakers on the right, and on the left, and onward
we must go let consequences be what they would. We kept
near the middle of the river, which was free from breakers,
though not from high surges. Soon, with amazing velocity,
we were over the cataract of the mighty waters, and made
our way into a bay at the head of the first portage of the
La Dalles.   The accumulation of water from those stu.
27*


L





310


LA DALLES.


pendous mountains above, was so great that the falls were
almost lost in the depth.
Such were the eddies and surging of the water among
the rocky islands in the narrow, broken channel of the La
Dalles, that we had to make three portages. Our canoe
was so large that twenty Indians were not too many to
carry it safely. Their mode of carrying, is to invert it
upon their heads and shoulders, and then it is with difficulty
and danger that they pass the steep and rocky ravines.
When we came to the last portage, the Indians were not
willing to take hold again unless we would pay them in
powder and balls; and although their demands were reasonable, yet our stores were not adequate to meet them, and
they would not perform the labor without the required arti.
cle. I engaged Sopelay, and another influential chief, to
induce their men to perform the labor of making this last
portage, and promised that I would send them the demand
from Fort Vancouver, and for their security I would give
them a talking paper. They stated to their people my proposal, and were about to succeed, when Tilki, the first chief,
who had become familiar with an American trader, laughed
at their credulity. Sopelay, however, stated to the people,
that he had seen me at the fort, and that he heard me teach
the Indians good things, and did not believe I would deceive
them. He prevailed, and the men took hold of the work;
and in four hours from passing the falls we were beyond the
raging waters, where we made our morning repast upon
very fine salmon.
Our passage the remainder of the day was pleasant; we
passed Cape Horn without difficulty, and landed for the
night twelve miles above the Cascades. In this high state
of the water, very few of the trees of the submerged forest
were to be seen.





DANGEROUS WHIRLPOOL.


311


On the morning of the 9th, we passed the Cascades by
hiring Indians to cordelle the canoe down them, exclusive of
one short portage, the distance of two miles to the great
basin, or rather the great whirlpool below. This labor is
attended with some danger, and cases, though not numerous
have occurred of the loss of lives and property. As I walked along the shores and over precipices, I saw the wrecks
of several canoes and bateaux strewed upon the rocks. We
embarked upon the great basin, at the lower part of which
we passed into a rapid, where the main current took a dia.
gonal course from the north toward the south shore. On
both sides of this current there were heavy breakers, and as
the only course of safety, we took the middle. We had not
proceeded far before a large whirlpool, with a deep, devouring
vortex formed almost directly before us, and as we were go.
ing forward very swiftly, it seemed impossible to avoid its
circling current. I said to my steersman, bear a little to
the right. " 0 don't speak here," was his reply. As we
approached the vortex, it filled after the manner of smaller
eddies, and we soon felt the influence of its waters rolling out
from the centre, and all our strength was required to resist
them, lest we should be thrown upon the breakers. We
passed with the rapidity of the wind, and in a short time
were upon the smooth surface of the tide waters below.
The sensations excited in descending these Cascades are
of that peculiar character, which are best understood by ex.
perience. The sensation of fear is no sooner awakened than
it subsides, before the power and magnificence of the rolling
surges, the circling vortices, and the roaring breakers. Let
those whose dormant energies, either of body or mind, need
arousing, try the navigation of the Columbia, and their
powers will be invigorated for almost any future enterprise,


I





312


A FIELD FOR NATURALISTS.


Such is the fascinating power, I had almost said magic of
these scenes, that those who are accustomed to be employed upon these waters, though far away from home and
kindred, become attached to this mode of life, and are reluctant to abandon it for any other. Each time the scenery
of these interesting Cascades is beheld, new wonders unfold
themselves. Niagara itself, if we except its unbroken fall
of one hundred and fifty feet, cannot bear a comparison
with the superior style of nature's works here. Nor are
these things created merely to draw our momentary admiration. Science in very many of its departments, may find
subjects for investigation.
While the ornithologist listens to the songsters of the
forest, and in these enchanting solitudes follows them with
his eye as they dart from bough to bough; his attention is
arrested by the noble and majestic white headed eagle, as
he takes his favorite perch upon the loftiest height of some
needle-pointed rock, or point of some leafless tree, or as he
darts from thence upon his prey; or his attention may be
arrested by the daring fish-hawk in his rapid descent upon
the finny tribe. An amusing occurrence took place in my
view. A fish-hawk seized upon a fish of such magnitude,
that the contest for a long time was doubtful, as the splashing water indicated, which should exchange its native ele.
ment. The resistance was so great, that a disengagement
was deemed the best policy.
Here also the botanist, while he forbears to ascend the lofty
mountains, which for him present an aspect of too much
dreariness, may retire into the narrow receding valleys, or
wind his way over sunny hills in search of new genera of
plants, or at least new species, with which to immortalize
his name, and add to the stores of his favorite science.





ARRIVAL AT THE FORT.


313


The geologist, while he admires the stupendous monu.
ments of volcanic operations before him, may also find
much to interest him in examining more minute formations.
Along the rugged shores are scattered specimens of calcedony, jasper, agate and cornelian. He may examine the
cellules of the immense masses of amygdaloid; the colum.
nar basalt, and the mountains shooting up their denticulated
forms and needle points.
His attention will be drawn to the examination of the
lava, breccia, and trachyte; and of dendrolites he will be
interested in finding many. When he looks at the deep
channel through which the Columbia river finds its onward
way to the Pacific ocean, if he doubts the agency of God
in forming the courses of the rivers, he may indulge his
imagination in computing how long it has taken this river
to wear down the immensely hard basalt a thousand feet;
and having ascertained how long it takes to wear any given
depth, he may then make his mathematical conclusions how
much longer the process has been going on than the Mosaic
account of the age of the world. But if he is a Christian
philosopher, while he admits second causes, he may look up
to the great first Cause, and admire and adore; and not regarding baseless theories, may exclaim, "How wonderful
are thy works, in wisdom hast thou made them all."
As we passed out of the mountain country about the Cascades, we found the wide valley below so inundated, as to
present the appearance of an inland sea. I arrived safely
at the fort, found my friends well, and exchanged cordial
congratulations.
Sabbath, June 12th, I preached to the people of the fort,
and in the evening a third service, in which as heretofore,
an opportunity was given to those present, to propose ques




314


STEAM-BOAT EXCURSION.


S   tions on any subject of religion about which they wished in.
formation. I was particularly gratified to find, that during
my absence, public worship had been maintained, and that
an effort had been made to bring the French Canadians to
attend upon religious instruction.  They are assembled
twice on the sabbath, and a portion of scripture and a ser.
mon in French, are read to them by Dr. McLaughlin.
I was favored with an opportunity to send to Sopelay the
promised powder and balls, by Capt. Black, a gentlemen of
the Company, who was to leave Vancouver for his station
north of Fort Okanagan, in a few days.
On the 14th, we took a water excursion in the steam-boat
Beaver, Capt. Home, down the Columbia to the confluence
of the western branch of the Multnomah; up this river into
the Willamette, and then into the middle branch of the
Multnomah, and through it, into the Columbia, and back to
the fort. All the low lands were overflowed with the annual
freshet, and presented the appearance of an immense bay,
extending far into the country. The day was pleasant and
our company cheerful. The novelty of a steam-boat on the
Columbia, awakened a train of prospective reflections upon
the probable changes which would take place in these remote regions, in a very few years. It was wholly an un.
thought of thing when I first contemplated this enterprise,
that I should find here this forerunner of commerce and bu.
siness. The gayety which prevailed was often suspended,
while we conversed of coming days, when with civilized
men, all the rapid improvements in the arts of life, should
be introduced over this new world, and when cities and villages shall spring up on the west, as they are springing up
on the east of the great mountains, and a new empire be
added to the kingdoms of the earth.





NAVIGABLE WATERS.


315


The Columbia is the only river of magnitude in the Ore. - K
gon Territory, and this is navigable for ships only one hun.
dred and thirty miles to the Cascades; and it is the only
one which affords a harbor for large ships on the coast, from
California to the 490 of north latitude. For bateaux and
various other light craft, the Columbia and its branches are
navigable a thousand miles. The internal navigation could
not be much improved, unless at great expense, by canals
around the rapids and falls, which are so numerous that
ascending the rivers is now difficult. Still a considerable
interior trade is carried on by means of these waters, and
the ingenuity of men on the west, when it shall be more
extensively populated, will contrive facilities, as on the east,
for greatly improving the intercourse of remote and differ.
ent portions of this territory.


a





316


GEOLOGY.


CHAPTER XXIII.
Geology.
HAVING remarked upon the geological features of this
country as I passed through it, I proceed to give a more
connected and summary view of facts as the results of my
observations.  However quiescent is the present state of
these regions, yet almost the whole country west of the
great dividing range of mountains to the Pacific ocean, and
from Queen Charlottes island on the north, to California on
the south, presents a vast scene of igneous operations. We
are compelled to the belief, that almost the whole has been
a volcanic furnace, and that astonishing geological changes
have taken place, in order to a rational and satisfactory
solution of existing phenomena. While it is difficult, in the
present state of geological knowledge, to ascertain under
what circumstances the varieties of the present rock forma.
tions originated, yet it is evident that internal fires have
reduced almost all the regular primitive formations to a state
of fusion, and then through craters, and fissures, and Chasms
of the earth, forced up the substances which constitute the
present volcanic forms. Such has been the intensity, ex.
tent, and power of this agency, that mountains of amygda.
loid and basalt have been thrown up, and the same substan.
ces are spread over the neighboring plains; to what depth
is not known, but from observations made upon channels of
rivers, and the precipices of ravines, it is evidently great.


*t'

















GEOLOGY.


317


The tops of some mountains are spread out into horizontal
plains, some are rounded like domes, and others terminate
in conical peaks, and abrupt eminences of various magni.
tudes, which are numerous, presenting themselves in forms
resembling pillars, pyramids and castles, and all composed
of substances which indicate an origin by fire, and evidently elevated in a fused state. The constituent parts of these
mountains are often calcarious or argillaceous earth, and
the igneous substances are spread out from their tops, and
covering the sides, sometimes partially, descend to the plains
below.
There are many regularly formed craters, presenting themselves in cones or concave depressions, found upon moun.
tains and plains; most of which are rendered obscure by
the lapse of time, but still their volcanic forms are as distinct
as those in the Sandwich Islands.
That volcanoes have existed there can be no doubt; but
that they have been in active operation recently, is more uncertain. There was an uncommonly dark day at Fort Vancouver, and in its vicinity, in August, 1831, which was
thought to have been caused by smoke from an eruption of
a volcano. The whole day was nearly as dark as night,
except a slight red, lurid appearance, which was perceptible
until near night. Lighted candles were necessary through
the day. The atmosphere was filled with smoke, ashes and
leaves, some of the latter were scorched, and the ashes were
very light, like the white ashes of wood; all having the ap.
pearance of being produced by great fires, and yet none
were known to have been in any part of the whole region
around. The day was perfectly calm, without any wind.
For a few days after, the fires out of doors were noticed to
burn with a bluish flame, as though mixed with sulphur.
28





318


GEOLOGY.


There were no earthquakes. By observations, which were
made after the atmosphere became clear, it was thought the
pure, white, perpetual snow upon Mount St. Helens was discolored, presenting a brown appearance, and therefore it
was concluded, that there had been upon it a slight eruption.
The Indians say they have seen fires in the chasms of Mount
Hood. Tilki, the first chief of the La Dalle Indians, who
is a man of more than ordinary talents, said he had frequently seen fires in the fissures of rocks in the last named
mountain.
The enquiry arises, when were those fires in operation,
which have produced such mighty effects and spread such
devastations? I am inclined to believe it was after the gen.
eral deluge, and with a few exceptions near the time of that
memorable event, from the fact that scarcely any fossil remains are found in any part of this country.
Though I have improved every opportunity which has
been presented to make observations, and have also made
many enquiries of men who have traveled extensively and
for a long time in different parts of this country, some of
whom are men of science, yet no evidence of fossil remains
have been noticed, with the exception of a very few specimens. I saw a small shell, a Turritella, which was found in
a mountain south of Mount Hood, in the Callapooa country.
Also a few miles up the Columbia river, on the south shore
of the bay, I found some very large petrified bivalve shells,
embedded in calcarious sandstone of the tertiary formation.
The largest specimens which I took measure, longitudi.
nally, four and a half inches from the hinge, and transversely, five. They are very perfect, beautifully scalloped,
and have all the lustre of living shells. If this large region
was the abode of animals, they and all fossil remains must





GEOLOGY.


319


have been destroyed, by that powerful heat, which has
changed all the natural formations.
It is admitted by geologists, that the remains of many an.
imals destroyed by the general deluge have been discovered
in the diluvial deposits of gravels, sands, and clays, in various parts both of the eastern and western continents.
Why then, are they and all marine fossils wanting in the
Oregon Territory, unless they have been destroyed by volcanic fires which here existed since the flood?
That these volcanic fires had their operations in periods
very remote, is evident from the nature and appearances of
the general soils. Far the greatest part is composed of disintegrated basalt, and decomposed lava reduced by atmospheric agencies to a black mould, making a rich soil.
Some parts are in a different condition; such as the great
desert in the Shoshones' country, lying between two ranges
of mountains, extending three hundred miles from south.
east to north-west, and one hundred in width. This section is to a great extent covered with scoria and other dis.
integrated volcanic substances, which render it a barren
region. Some tracts are argillaceous, others calcarious, and
in some parts, especially near the mountains, quartose sand
predominates; but all of these are more or less mixed with vol.
canic detritus. A few, and only a few, localities furnish vegetable mould. In several different locations escarpments of
clay of diversified structure, resembling the basaltic strata, are
presented. The layers are from a few inches to twenty feet
in thickness, and of different colors; dusky red, brown, blue,
green, yellow, and in some instances very pure white; and
not unfrequently in a greater or less degree indurated. Such
is their structure that they induce the belief they were formed
by the agency of fire. Additional evidence of the antiquity





320


GEOLOGY.


of these volcanic fires, and that they continued through a
long period of time, and in many series of operations is furnished by the condition of the basaltic formations. In the
examination of bluffs, or perpendicular banks of rivers and
mountains, I have numbered from ten to twenty strata of
amygdaloid, basalt, and breccia, which appear to have been
thrown up in different periods, through craters, fissures or
chasms, rising in succession one above the other. In some
locations the lowest formation is pudding stone, on this
amygdaloid, varying in thickness from a few feet to twenty
and thirty; and then above this a stratum of angular fragments of basalt and amygdaloid, frequently intermixed with
lava, which may be called breccia. This stratum generally
appears to have been for a long period exposed to atmos.
pheric agency, until in some degree decomposed. Upon
this in some places a stratum of columnar basalt, the pillars
rising perpendicularly from ten to thirty feet, and in many
sections of the country these columns are regularly crys.
talized pentagons, varying in size from one to four feet in
diameter, and in regular articulated sections; and upon this
section of basalt another section of breccia is superimposed;
and then again another stratum of basalt or amygdaloid;
and in the same manner stratum above stratum, walled up
often from ten to twenty in number, indicating so many
different eruptions, the whole series rising from fifty to sev.
eral hundred feet. The strata of breccia are only a few
feet in depth and appear to have been for a long period the
surface, after which a new eruption has again overspread the
whole. In one section of the high walls of the Grand Coule,
far up the sides, instead of the breccia is presented a depth
of yellow earth of six or eight feet, and upon this several
strata of basalt and amygdaloid, as above described, in like





GEOLOGY.


321


manner exhibiting proof that the section of breccia for a
long time constituted the suiface. Thus it appears that the
internal fires have had long intervals of repose, and then
have again sent forth their volcanic substances. The probability is, that they were thus in operation for centuries,
but with a few exceptions, have ceased for centuries past,
so that time has been given for atmospheric agencies to decompose the volcanic productions, sufficiently to form a soil
covering most parts of the country. The enquiry naturally arises, whether it may not be on account of the great in -
ternal fires of this country, that the climate is so much
warmer on the west side of the mountains than on the east.
It is an interesting fact, that the eastern side of North
America, in given parallels of latitude, is the coldest, while
the western in the same parallels, is the warmest part of
the world. And may not this arise from the comparatively
recent volcanic fires, which have pervaded the whole region
of the setting sun.*
Among the locations of columnar basalt, the columns of
which are regularly crystalized pentagons, the most distinguished are those described on the Snake or Lewis river,
below and on the opposite side of the confluence of the
Cooscootske river, as on page 125; another on the high
lands dividing the waters of the Snake and Spokein rivers.
The formations of this location have many interesting cha.
racteristics, as described on page 285. Another below the
Cascades of the Columbia, where the regular pentagonal
* By reference to the annexed meteorological table it will be seen,
from observations taken between the 45th and 46th degrees of north
latitude, that in the winter of 1835-6, the greatest cold was but 100
below the freezing point, and this for three mornings only-and during the month of March there were but two mornings in which there
was any frost.
28*


I





322


GEOLOGY.


columns wall up the north side for the distance of half a mile.
Here are also found all the varieties of volcanic productions.
The volcanic peaks are as diversified in their forms as they
are numerous, being conical, denticulated, and needle-pointed;
varying in magnitudes, and rising one above another from
ten to fifteen hundred feet. These occur almost entirely
upon the south side. At the lower part of the rapids, on
the north side, at the commencement of tide water, stands
what I have called Pillar Rock. It is wholly isolated upon
a narrow strip of bottom.land, and with a small base, rises
five hundred feet perpendicular on the river side, and nearly
so on the other sides; and its whole appearance resembles
a huge monument, erected to immortalize some great event
of other times. This, with some others in different places,
is among the astonishing wonders of volcanic operations.
There are also numerous islands of basalt in the Columbia
river and its branches, elevated often much above high
freshet water. These are numerous in the La Dalles, and
in the ancient bed of the Columbia, or Grand Coule. These
islands are the same in form and substance, as the dykes
which are found all over the country.
Since the channel of the Columbia, in many parts, is
walled up on its sides and studded with islands of basaltic
rocks, rising in perpendicular height from twenty to four
hundred feet; the question forces itself upon the mind, what
agency, by the theories of geologists, formed the channel of
the Columbia and other rivers flowing through ridges and
mountains of hard basalt? It cannot be that the river has
formed its own channel by forcing or washing through the
rocks, for they are too solid and immense. Undoubtedly
the action of water has worn the rocks very considerably,
and produced changes, but upon no principles can it be





GEOLOGY.


32a


supposed, that they have produced so long and so deep a
channel, as the one through which the Columbia flows, and
through such solid rock formations, differing but little from
iron in hardness.
Conversing upon this subject with some literary gentlemen who had frequently passed up and down this river, after
several theories were proposed, none of which could bear
the test even of probability, one of them remarked, he had
been reminded of his boyish sports, when he had dammed
up water, and then with his finger drawn a channel through
the sand for the water to run; so it seemed to him that God
had drawn a channel for the Columbia.
This brought to my recollection a conversation Mr.
Schoolcraft and myself had, when passing through Lake
Huron in the summer of 1834, in which we were consider.
ing some of the difficulties, in the theories of the several
geological formations. After some considerable conversation
upon the subject, Mrs. S-----, a very amiable woman,
sitting by and hearing, remarked, "Gentlemen, you need
not give yourselves any trouble upon this subject; God could
with perfect ease order all these things."  This must be our
resting place. "Every house is builded by some man, but
he that built all things is God." If we lose sight of this
great truth, and do not keep it in view, as a landmark in
our investigations, but look to nature as our only guide and
instructor, at work in her great laboratory, the earth, to
teach us precisely how the earth is formed, we shall wan.
der into mazes from which we shall not be able to extricate ourselves. These remarks are not designed to detract
from the science of geology; for it is undoubtedly very
interesting, and may be made very useful. It expands the
mind, and shows more clearly, that the invisible things of





324


GEOLOGY.


God may be understood by the things which are made: and
shows us our dependence upon Him for his upholding and
protecting providence. Let theorizing, and reasoning a priori be laid aside; and none but truly philosophical reasoning
be pursued, which is inductive, and nothing is to be feared,
but much to be hoped, from geological investigations.
The condition of the country on the western side of the
Rocky Mountains differing in almost every particular from
that on the eastern side, may render the common assumption doubtful, that different genera and species of plants and
animals, designate distinct formations and distinct periods
of time in which such formations took place. And if it
was known to be true, that the same genera and species of
animals and plants had their existence in the same period
of time, in all countries of the same climate, or in corresponding latitudes, then the age of different formations might
be better known by fossil remains. But it is a fact, that
the genera and species of animals and plants may differ
widely and materially in the same country, age, and lati.
tude. This is now the case in North America, on the east
and west side of the Rocky Mountains.
Let North America now be submerged, and after a long
time be again elevated to its present position, and let future
generations examine its fossil remains, and by the rules very
generally laid down, would they not conclude that the section on the east side, and that on the west side of the mountains indicate two different periods of submersion, and that
there was a long intermediate period of tranquility between
them? Would not the different genera and species of vegetables and animals lead to this conclusion? Would they
not, from the evident difference of temperature of climate
in the same latitudes on the east and on the west, conclude





GEOLOGY.


325


that the western section was submerged, at the period when
the earth was much warmer than at a period when the eastern section was submerged? This would he a rational and
legitimate conclusion from the rule, that in strata of the
same class, dissimilar organic remains belong to a different
period of time, and were deposited under a different condi.
tion of the globe. And the gigantic balsam firs, found in
the west and not found in the east, would as clearly prove
a different climate in the same latitude, and therefore a different period of submersion, as the gigantic ferns prove a
different temperature of the earth, and of course a different
period of time, in which they were deposited.
On the west side, the enormous balsam firs, measuring
from five to eight feet in diameter, and between one and two
hundred feet in height, would be found so numerous as to
constitute whole forests. Also the alder of various diameters, from the small to those of two feet, and proportionably
tall; and the rush varying from four to ten feet long, and
proportionably large. While the fir, the alder, and rush
would be found on the east side, they would be mere dwarfs
in comparison with those on the west, and also very sparse.
And many genera of trees and plants would be found on
the one side, which would not be found on the other. On
the west there would be no walnut, chestnut, sugar maple,
elm, and many other kinds of trees. And of animals, there
would not be found any of the present fossils of the east, nor
the ox, the ass, the swine, nor common sheep,-the buffalo
would be found east and in the mountains, but hardly beyond. What conclusions would be drawn from such data,
if the rules, which have been adopted by some geologists,
are received as correct?
If such is now the difference of climate, of vegetables,





326


GEOLOGY.


and of animals, between the country on the east, and the
country on the west, of our continent, and in the same latitude, may not mistakes be made in regard to different formations, and different periods of time, in which they have
taken place? And especially when the periods are so remote, and the depth of the earth so little explored, and con.
fined to so small limits.
No doubts need be indulged, but that such advances may
and will be made in the science of geology, that it will become
one of the strong corroborating evidences of the inspiration
of the scriptures, without departing from the obvious meaning of any part of the inspired language. The books of
nature, of providence, and of revelation harmonize; and it is
owing to our darkened and limited understandings, and the
imperfection of our knowledge, that we have any difficulty
in seeing their harmony; and the more correct knowledge
we gain of them, the more we shall see and admire their
coincidence.
Such is the extent of volcanic agency, that the localities
of primitive formations are few, and these not extensive.
The Rocky Mountains, as they are called, are immense
masses of gneiss granite, generally a dark gray, sometimes
green, or light ash color, unstratified, and having no regular
forms, but piled in masses upon each other. The Salmon
river mountains in some parts are primitive, exhibiting
^      granite and mica slate, and from the midst of these primitive formations, we occasionally see immense volcanic
chimneys, from which have been poured out, in remote
times, volcanic substances, which lie strewed in abund.
ance around. One, which I examined, of a remarkable
form, on the top of one of the highest mountains, was of
this description. In the mountains of the Spokein coun




GEOLOGY.


327


try, similar characteristics exist. Receding from the great
mountains, the transition from granite is a gradual change,
until it loses its distinctive characteristics in the trap
rocks.
The passage in the other two locations just named, of the
grange into basalt, is easily traced, and the first igneous
appearance is not a change of the structure, but multiplied
fractures increase, until you find the granite broken into
large fragments, and these diminishing in size, until they
disappear in the distinct characteristics of volcanic agency.
Smaller sections of granite are scattered in forms of less
dimensions, protruding from the earth, but these are of somewhat rare occurrence. The forms in which it is found sometimes in other countries, as boulders, do not appear west of
the mountains. Near the sources of Henry's fork, localities
of graywacke are found presenting themselves in narrow
ridges or dykes, at nearly equal distances, rising but little
above the surface of the ground, running from north-east to
south-west, and dipping at an angle of 600 to the west.
This was the only district in this form, which came under
my observation.
Limestone, as might be expected from the changes in nearly all the rock formations, does not abound here, indeed it
is questionable whether it exists except in very detached
and small quantities. One location of magnesian lime.
stone, I observed in the neighborhood of the Sulphur Spring
which I have already described. The lime used at Fort
Vancouver is made of rock coral imported for ballast in vessels returning from the Sandwich Islands. In the vicinity
of this location of limestone, was a quantity, though not
very extensive, of gypsum. The only marble I noticed
was a mountain situated a short distance below the conflu.





328


GEOLOGY.


ence of the Spokein with the Columbia. This also I have
described. In parts which I examined I discovered it to be
saccharine white, and variegated blue. A specimen of the
first I have preserved. Situated as it is on a navigable river,
it will most probably become in time a source of wealth.
In the region of Pierre's Hole and still farther west, there
is clinkstone of marked and distinctive character, in great
abundance, and in the same vicinity obsidian in large quantities. From the dark color of this, and also of basalt
generally, I detected the presence of augite. Obsidian is
found in very many places throughout the country, and
towards the ocean, in small quantities, it is a resinous white.
Lava is abundant in many places, in all the varieties of
color in which it is usually found, sometimes dusky red,
yellowish, gray, and black, of different degrees of hardness
and gravity, some being compact, some cellular, and often
so light as to float upon water. Trachyte is also found
among the varieties of lava.
Most of the varieties of the precious stones, such as calcedony, agate, jasper, and cornelian, are found upon the
shores of the Columbia, Willamette, and the large branches
of these rivers. While they vary in size, forms, and colors,
many of them are very pure and beautiful, and might be improved to great brilliancy in the hands of the artist. Porphyry of different textures and quality is frequently met with,
S   some of which resembles the precious stones in fineness.
I saw no anthracite coal after leaving the Black Hills on
the east of the mountains; bituminous coal, of which I saw
a quantity, is obtained from a locality near Pugets Sound,
and brought for use to Fort Vancouver.
It is an interesting fact that mineral rock salt exists in
its native state, in a section of mountains on the south side





GEOLOGY.


329


of the Salmon river, before entering the Salmon river moun.
tains. It crops out from the side, a little above the base of
the mountain. I saw the mine and examined specimens of
it, and took of it for future use. It is pure and white, and
contains less of the water of crystalization than common
salt. The geological formations in the immediate vicinity,
so nearly resemble those described in the neighborhood of
the mineral salt mines of Bochnia and Wieliczka in Poland,
as to induce the belief that it exists in great abundance.
It was peculiarly grateful to me in the circumstances in
which I was placed, and the best testimony I can give to
the quality is, that I found it very useful while compelled
to subsist on game.
Salt is also found in a crystalized state upon the shores of
the great Salt Lake, the waters of which are so strongly
impregnated, that large quantities are deposited. HIow wise
and kind is the disposition of the products of nature, and
how well adapted to the wants of all his creatures has the
hand of a beneficent Father distributed his blessings; and
here, at so great a remove from all the facilities of commerce, He has laid up in store one of the most necessary
and useful articles of domestic use.
But few mineral springs have as yet been discovered.
The most remarkable are, the Soda fountain on Bear river,
about forty-five miles north of Salt Lake, remarkable for the
quantity of carbonic acid gas which is evolved, but not hav-.
ing been analyzed, its particular mineral properties are not
ascertained, and the general remark only can be made, that
it greatly resembles the Saratoga waters;-the Sulphur
spring to the south of the Trois Tetons, on a branch of
Henry's fork, around which large quantities of pure sulphur
are deposited, and from which sulphureted hydrogen escapes,
29





380                   GEOLOGY.
and its annoying properties are perceptible more than eighty
rods distant;-and the hot springs in the great range of the
Rocky Mountains, some of which are said to furnish the
mountain men a convenient place to boil their food.
Sulphate of magnesia, (epsom salts) purely native, exists
in immense quantities in and on both sides of the mountains. Lakes or pools, which the heat of summer princi.
pally evaporates, abound in this region, exhibiting crystalized salts in great quantities. Spicular crystals of the
same salt shoot up on the surface of the ground, effloresced
to such a degree as to present the appearance of fields
whitened with snow.
No indications of metallic ores have yet been noticed in
any part of Oregon Territory.





GENERAL REMARKS.


331


CHAPTER XXIV.
General remarks-Meteorological table.
HAVING explored the most important parts of this territory, and gained all the information within my reach, as to
the several objects proposed in my instructions from the
Board of Foreign Missions; and especially having ascertained to my entire satisfaction two most prominent facts,
namely, the entire practicability of penetrating with safety to any and every portion of the vast interior, and the
disposition of the natives in regard to my mission among
them, it remained that the most feasible and expeditious
mode of returning should next be consulted. I could expect
to acquire but little additional knowledge in traversing the
route to Rendezvous; and the necessary delay of several
months, it seemed could be avoided by a return by water.
The Hudson Bay Company were about to send a ship to
the Sandwich Islands, in which I was kindly offered a gratuitous passage. On the other hand, my friendship with
gentlemen of this establishment, my regard for the spiritual
welfare of the benighted men for whose good I had for
many a weary day pursued my object, over mountains and
plains, hills and valleys, through all the vicissitudes of
climate and weather; and especially a desire to see in this
whitened field, the returning laborers I expected, and to be
able to give them personally, instead of by letter, the result
of my collected information, as a guide to them in their incipient labors; all these held me riveted to the spot, and un




332     DEPARTURE FOR OAHU-REFLECTIONS.


decided as to my course. At length after consultaion with
my most judicious friends, I concluded to take passage in
the barque Columbia for Oahu, in the hope that a speedy
opportunity would present to return to the United States.
In taking leave of this country and the work in which
I have so long time been engaged, a train of reflections
crowds upon my mind. The future condition of this noble
race of men is a subject of interesting enquiry to many
others as well as myself. Whether the Indians are to pass
away before the increasing power and numbers of white
men, or whether enlightened and improved by their philan.
thropy, they shall arise in the scale of intellectual and moral existence, is a problem which time alone can solve. I
entered on the work of exploring this field with no bias or
preconceived opinion, and from critical and personal obser.
vation, I hesitate not to say that I can see no reason existing
in the nature of things, or in their present condition, which
necessarily dooms the race to annihilation on the one hand,
or on the other, necessarily makes them objects of apprehension, as the future hordes who shall in coming time, like the
northern barbarians of Roman days, be reserved as the
scourge of an overgrown and decaying republic. If to do
good be an object worthy of humanity or religion, I see not
why a consistent and persevering attempt to raise a race of
freemen from their depression, and to place them in the rank
of intelligent men, be not an undertaking fraught with as
much promise and encouragement, as it was in earlier days
to elevate our ancestors.  In favor of this opinion, we
have the docility of the Indians in every thing pertaining
to their improvement; in the sprightliness of their youth and
children; and in the amiableness of their native tempers and
dispositions among themselves. I take nothing of this upon





REFLECTIONS.


333


testimony. In all my intercourse with them, I saw, with
only one exception, no angry or malevolent passions in ex'
ercise in their little communities. Why shall any look
down upon the Indian with contempt and doom his race to
annihilation, and judge of the whole, by those who have
learned the vices of white men, and had those vices stimu.
lated and strengthened by the cupidity of those who have
excited them? Why shall not a redeeming influence be exerted to bring the Indians to an elevated condition, to which
their independent and ambitious dispositions aspire, and to
which God, as a part of the family of man, designed them?
I tremble for the consequences, when I reflect on the
wrongs inflicted upon this race of men. Able pens have
portrayed in vivid colors, their injuries and abuses, and humanity has wept. Were but the one hundredth part spread
out to view, we should recoil at the sight. The life of an
Indian, in the estimation of our border and refugee men who
visit their country, is nothing worth. Theirs is a land
where among white men, no law but superior cunning and
superior force bear rule. It was related to me that Captain S., an English officer in half pay, while traveling
through the Indian country, lost a horse which he highly
valued, and believing it to be stolen by an Indian, offered five
hundred dollars for his head. One of a lawless band, a half
Indian who was present, went in pursuit, and returned with
the head of the person charged with the theft, and demanded
his reward. To make out the sum Captain S. gave him
two horses, calling each $250. This ended the affair.
Mr. Wyeth in a memoir, embodied in a Report of a Committee of Congress, on the Oregon question, says "The
preponderance of bad character is so great amongst traders
and their people, that crime carries with it little or no shame.
29*





334


REMARKS.


I have heard it related among white American trappers, as a
good joke, that a trapper who had said he would shoot any
Indian, whom he could catch stealing his traps, was seen
one morning to kill one; and, on being asked if the Indian
had stolen his traps, he answered No, but he looked as if he
was going to." These are only specimens.
I have been much pleased to notice among the benevolent
operations of the present day, the formation of a society in
England, which I regard as among not the least benevolent,
viz. " An Aborigines Protection Society," from whose " Plan
and Objects," I quote, as expressing most fully my own sentiments. 1" Among these tribes, our imported diseases produce frightful ravages, our ardent spirits deprave and con.
sume their population, our unjust laws exclude them from
enjoying that first element of well.ordered societies, judicial
protection, as well as from the possibility of a timely incorporation with colonial communities; while, in addition to
all these evils, our neglect of suitable means and methods
of improvement, prevents that adoption of civilized manners
and customs to which they are inclined. It is impossible
for us as men, patriots, philanthropists, or Christians, to behold without anxiety, the ruin of the people whom we are
accessary in supplanting, unless our future modes of colonization be directed with greater humanity and wisdom
than in times past."
I have* in several places made mention of the superior
mildness of the climate west of the Rocky Mountains, and
that the seasons are divided into the wet and dry; the rainy
season commencing about the first of November, and the
dry about the first of May. The following meteorological
table, which was taken with care, will give a general speci.
men,





METEOROLOGICAL TABLE.
The observations were taken at seven o'clock in the morning, at one o'clock in the afternoon, and at sunset.
1835-6.


OCT. 7
4
S. 5
6
7
8
9
10
11
S. 12
13
14
15
16
17




A. M. 1 P. M. S. SET.
440   60      Q
50    76    75
51    70
53    72    68
54    70    66
51    56    62
50    68    60
51    70    58
50    68    56
51 I 65     54
50    60    48
46    54    50


WEATHER. A. M.
clear,
clear.
cloudy,
clear.
cloudy all day, and hazy.
do.    do.   do.
do.    do.   do.
do.    do.   do.
do.    do.   with rain.
do.    do.   all day.
do.    do.   do.
wind and rain.
light wind.
do. do.   and rain.


WEATHER. P. M.
light clouds.
slear.
cloudy and hazy.
hazy.
cloudy and hazy.
do.     do.
wind     do.
wind     do.
do.   showers.
cloudy with wind.
do. with wind and rain.
more clear,       evening calm.
a little rain.
rain.


M~
0
0
0o
V1





18
S. 19
20
21
22
23
24
25
S. 26
27
28
29
30
31
NOV.
1
S. 2
3
4
5


50
45
43
38
33
34
36
35
36
40
42
40
39
53
42
40
37
50


0
54
52
46
43
34
36
44
50
42
52
54
49
49
60
50
53
51
54


"   light wind.  and rain
58    clear and cloudy alternately.
50    cloudy through the day.
44      do.   do.    do.
38    rain most of the day.
33    rainy, high winds.
33    snow and rain.
40    wind and rain,
42    heavy wind.
40    clear and pleasant,
49    clear.
52    clear and cloudy alternate through the day.
45    rain.
50    light rain.
48    heavy rain through the day.
50    morning clear.
49    somewhat stormy.
46    light rain most of the day.
46    morning clear.


rain.
clear and cloudy alternately.
cloudy.
cloudy.
cloudy.
a heavy sea in the bay, some snow.
wind.
but not as yesterday.
heavy wind and rain.
wind and rain.
clear.
clear and cloudy by turns, evening rain.
light rain.
light rain most of the day.
heavy rain.
rain.
somewhat stormy.
light rain.
cloudy.





6
7
8
S. 9
10
11
12
13
14
15
S. 16
17
18
19
20
21
22
S. 23
24
q 5


48Q
44
33
33
32
32,
39
32
34
38
38
40
32
30
35
38
35
38
40
33


430
50
43
42
41
45
48
46
3 7
41
42,
46
38
3 5
40
43
40
40
44
35


480
40
38
40
38
40
44
37
36
40
36
38
32
33
38
36
40
39
44
34


light rain most of the day.
clear,
light rain, most of the (lay
clear all day.
clear all day.
do. do.
do. do.
do. do.
a little snow.
rain all day.
hazy.
cloudy.
cloudy.
snow and rain.
rain most of the day.
cloudy.
rain most of the day.
cloudy.
cloudy.
morning clear,


light rain.
light rain.
clear.
clear all day.
clear all day.
do. do.
do. do.
do. do.
rain.
rain all day.
hazy.
rain.
rain.
snow and rain.
rain most of the day.
cloudy.
rain most of the day
cloudy.
clear.
variable,


0
0


03





26
27
28
29
S. 30
DEC.
1
2
3
4
5
S. 6
7
8
9
10
11
12
S. 13
14


32
34
38
31
33
31
33
22
23
24
22
22
33
31
31
30
35
32
26


380
41
43
34
45
35
35
31
32
31
31
28
34
36
38
40
44
441
46


36Q
37
38
36
40
40
32
29
31
25
29
34
37
40
42
38
45
40
40


clear.
fair a small part of the day.
cloudy.
cloudy.
clear and
cloudy, sun
clear and
clear.
clear.
clear.
clear.
cloudy.
cloudy, and
clear.
clear.
cloudy and
cloudy and clear alternately.
thin clouds.
clear and


variable.
as in forenoon.
cloudy.
cloudy.
cloudy alternately.
sometimes seen.
cloudy alternately.
clear.
clear.
clear.
clear.
cloudy.
a little hail.
clear.
clear.
clear alternately.
sun sometimes seen.
thin clouds.
Svery pleasant.


CO
OD


0
Pm
O
o





15   320
16   40
17   42
18    38
19   36
S. 20   35
21    28
22    33
23    39
24    39
25    42
26    52
S. 27    56
28    56
29    56
30   40
31   46
1   50
2    46


440
44
44
44
41
38
30
34
52
52
45
57
56
58
55
48
46
54
52


49'0
44
42
40
41
34
31
32
39
42
44
52
56
56
53
46
48
50
48


thin clouds and
cloudy.
rain.
cloudy with intervals of
cloudy and
cloudy and a little snow, which
cloudy, a mixture of
cloudy and
cloudy and rain.
cloudy and rain.
cloudy and rain.
changeable weather.
cloudy and
somewhat cloudy.
cloudy,        sun.
partially cloudy.
cloudy.
JANUARY, 1836.
come clouds, but as
cloudy.


some sunshine.
rain.
alternate rain and snow.
sun; a little snow in the night.
some rain.
melts as fast as it falls.
hail and rain.
some rain.
pleasant, some thin clouds.
wind,      rain,      clear.
rainy.
clouds,    rain,   clear and pleasant.
rainy all day.
towards evening rain.
cloudy,    evening rain.
very thin clouds.
cloudy and rain.
JANUARY, 1836.
a whole very pleasant.
some rain.


0
03
0





S. 3    540
4   46
5   44
6   40
7   40
8   38
9   30
S. 10   32
11   34
12   34
13   30
14   30
15   34
16   36
S. 17   31
18   34
19   34
20   31
21   30
22   26


50~
48
50
46
44
42
38
38
36
42
32
32
39
42
34
36
36
38
34
30


460
46
44
44
43
40
36
38
38
37
30
32
36
36
34
36
38
33
32
28


heavy rain.
some clouds, but pleasant.
alternately heavy rain
cloudy and some rain.
cloudy.
cloudy.
clear and pleasant.
cloudy.
cloudy most of
cloudy most of
snow.
cloudy.
cloudy partly.
cloudy and
cloudy and
cloudy.
some clouds in the morning.
clear and
cloudy all day.
snow.


heavy rain.
some clouds but pleasant.
and pleasant sun.
cloudy and some rain.
cloudy.
cloudy.
evening cloudy, snow.
cloudy and rain.
the time through the day.
the time through the day.
snow.
somewhat snowy.
cloudy, evening clear.
clear alternately.
some snow.
rain.
clear and pleasant.
pleasant.
cloudy.
cloudy.


CO


M
0
r
0
t





23    ~8    294   38 -S. 24    28    31    30
25    32    36    34
26    36    36    36
27    30    40    36
28          36    34
29    34    36    36
30    34    44    40
S. 31    36    44    39
~ FEB.
1    35    46    42
2    40    46     44
3    38    48     42
4    39    48     46
5    38    42     40
6    28    41    46
S. 7    30     40    39
8    31    38     38
9  32      40    39
10   32     38    33


cloudy.
cloudy, and rain
cloudy.
cloudy and
cloudy and
cloudy.
rain,
some clouds, but
some rain,
clear and pleasant day.
some rain.
some clouds,
thin clouds.
thin clouds.
white frost,  clear,
thin clouds.
cloudy morning,
cloudy morning,
much as yesterday,


cloudy,    sonic rain making ice,
which makes a crust.
sonic pleasant sun.
pleasant sun alternately.
pleasant sun alternately.
cloudy.
rain through the day.
very pleasant.
some rain.
clear and t)lcasant day.
cloudy,
middie of the day very pleasant.
middle of the day pleasant.
clear and pleasant.
clear and pleasant.
thin clouds.
clear,   cloudy evening.
clear,   cloudy evening.
but not quite as pleasant..


0
0





12    30
13    34
S. 14   32
15   34
16   37
17   40
18   38
19   46
S. 20   40
21    32
22    30
23    32
24    26
25    26
26    28
S. 27   30
28    26
29    28


30o
34
43
43
42
44
47
50
54
52
48
42
42
40
42
36
38
36
42


28Q
34
38
38
40
40
44
49
51
46
42
40
36
36
36
34
32
33
40


the most snowy day
cloudy and some rain.
thin clouds.
much as yesterday.
cloudy.
cloudy.
cloudy.
cloudy.
cloudy.
pleasant.
clear and pleasant.
some more
cloudy and
clear.
clear.
cloudy.
partly cloudy.
cloudy and
cloudy.


we have had, together with wind.
cloudy and somne rain.
some, sun and pleasant.
but more pleasant.
"a little sunshine.
"a little sunshine.
some rain.
some sunshine,    cloudy.
pleasant.   cloudy.
a few thin clouds.
clear and pleasant.
cloudy than yesterday.
little snow,  clear.
clear.
clear.
little snow.
and clear.
clear alternately.
cloudy.


M
0
0





MAR.
1   370
2   35
3   44
4   50
5   48
S. 6    46
7   46
8   50
9   40
10   39
11   50
12   39
S. 13   36 -14   38
15   34
16   38
17   36
18   35
19   32


460
46
54
58
60
56
58
60
62
60
56
46
46
48
48
50
47
52
58


440
46
50
54
56
48
56
56
58
58
48
38
42
44
42
47
47
44
84


cloudy.
cloudy, and
cloudy, and
cloudy.
cloudy.
cloudy.
thin clouds.
thin clouds in the morning,
clear.
clear.
some showers.
rainy.
night and morning rainy.
partly cloudy and sun.
nearly clear.
cloudy.
cloudy morning.
cloudy morning,    clear.
light white frost; after 8 o'clock, clear.


some pleasant.
little sun.
little sun.
cloudy.
sunshine with some clouds.
thin clouds.
thin clouds.
afternoon clear.
clear.
clear.
some showers.
rainy.
most of the day thin clouds and sun.
partly cloudy and sun.
light shower.
alternately clear and cloudy.


m
0
0
CIA
P.
tI4


clear.
clear.
through the day.


clear.
clear.


~.D





S. 20
21
22
23
24
25
26
S. 27
28
29
30
31
APRIL
1
2
S. 3
4
5
6
I


30Q
36
34
45
43
38
34
46
46
44
46
49
52
48
42
48
49
46
46


64Q
66
60
55
54
66
64
64
62
58
60
65
58
52
54
60
60
56
58


580
57
58
48
48
55
58
56
54
52
56
57
56
48
48
54
56
49
54


clear
clear
clear.
cloudy,    some
cloudy, interchanges
cloudy             clear,
light frost,    clear.
cloudy.
cloudy, a little rain.
changes of clear




cloudy.
cloudy.
cloudy.
cloudy,
cloudy,
cloudy.
rain,
rain most.
rain,


through the day.
through the day.
clear,         cloudy.
rain,              rain.
of clouds, clear,   some rain.
clear.
very thin clouds.
cloudy.
thin clouds.
and clouds, and showers.
thin clouds.
thin clouds.
somewhat rainy.
some rain.    *
cloudy, clear, and sunsline,
mostly clear.
clear and cloudy,
of the day.
partly clelar,


H
c3
0
0
H
o
^*4
b
pr


and
alternately
alternately
cloildy,





9
S. 10
11
12
13
14
15
16
SS. 17
*   18
19
20
21
22
23
S. 24
25
26
27


48   540
45    52
43    56
44    42
40    46
40    50
38    48
44    50
48    54
44
50
46    56
62
60
62
66
74


500
48
53
40
44
48
46
42
44
46
50


cloudy.
rainy.
most of the day cloudy.
cloudy.
showers.
rain.
cloudy.
rain.
rainy.
very heavy rain
cloudy
some clouds,
clear,
pleasant.
pleasant.
considerable wind.
much wi;,d.
somc win,
clear.
clear.


thin clouds,
showers.
some part pleasant.
rain through after part of the day,
showers.
showers.
cloudy.


rainy.
all day.
cloudy,
very high wind,
most of the day.
pleasant.
pleasant.
clear,
flying clouds and rain.
and pleasant.
clear.
some clouds.


0
o
0





28
29
30
MAY.
S. 1
2
3
4
5
6
7
S. 8
9
10
11
12
13
14
S. 15


4


4
5
5
5
5
5E
R6
6(
5C
34
5C
6(
5E
57
65


o   901~         very warm.                           clear.
92           clouds,                              high winds,
6    64     62    clouds,                              rain.
6    64     62    windy and                            some clouds.
66           warm.                                warm.
3    76     62    warm and                             clear through the day,
3    76     64    clear,                               a little wind.
3    76     68    clear,                               very warm,
84     76    clear,                               clouds, some lightning and di
80     72    very thin clouds,                    clear.
58     54    some rain.                           and very high wind.
52     38    wind and clear,                      wind.
68     58    clear and                            pleasant, a little frost.
) 72         the morning was cloudy,              clear.
80     66    clear,                               very warm,      no wind.
60     57    cloudy,         rain.                rain,       cloudy.
76     60    cloudy,            clear.            clear.
76     62    cloudy,   a trifle of rain           and some thunder.
From this time the dry season commenced in which there is 1ut little variation of weather


stant thunder.


H
0
0
0
H





DEPARTURE FOR SANDWICH ISLANDS.


847


CHAPTER XXV.
The voyage commenced for the Sandwich islands-passage in the Beaver
down the river-take passage in the barquc Columbia-detention in
Chenook bay-arrival at the island-worship in the native church
-description of Oahu-the Pari-the valley of Manoa-description
of Honolulu-of Waititi-hlcatlhn templc-Eva-Waialua-Ken.
cohe-mountains-salt lake-gcology-natural productions-animals-governmcnt-tca party of the royal family-dinner to the
officers of the Peacock and Enterprise-decrease of populationunfair negotiations-foreign residence-charity school-seamens'
chapel-burying place of the royal family-missionary success.
ON the 18th of June, according to previous arrange.
ments, I took passage in the steam-ship Beaver for Fort
George, to join the barque Columbia for the Sandwich islands.
As the Beaver was commencing her first voyage upon the
Pacific, under the power of steam, destined for the north.
west coast, the people of the fort, and those residing around,
assembled upon the shore of the Columbia, and as she moved
majestically from her anchorage, they saluted us with cheers,
which were reciprocated by all on board, and they responded,
" A happy voyage, a prosperous voyage." The ship anchored at night a little above Tongue Point; and the next
day, after being detained upon a sand bar, from which the
tide after awhile set us free, we arrived at Fort George.
The next day, the 20th, my friend Mr. F. and a few othera





348


GREAT CAVE.


took a ramble on the shores below. The verdure of the
trees and plants, the red clover in full sweetness in the des.
ert, and the mildness of the season, all combined to make
the scene enchanting. It was on the shore of this bay
where I collected the large bivalve shell petrifactions, em.
bedded in calcarious sandstone of the tertiary formation, as
described in the chapter foregoing. No volcanic appear.
ances were visible in the immediate vicinity.
On the 21st, I embarked on board the Columbia, and
we dropped down to the Chenook Bay, and anchored just
above Cape Disappointment. Here for the want of favor.
able wind and tide, we were detained until the 28th. While
we continued here, I made several excursions on shore; ascended the cape, which is probably about four hundred feet
high, and from which a fine prospect of the Pacific and its
shores is presented as far as the eye can reach. The shore
is generally bold and rocky, furnishing no other harbor near.
The country around is rocky and densely covered with forests, and the scenery is wild. Near the shore, on the west
end of the cape, a large cave extends into the volcanic
rocks the distance of one hundred and fifty feet. We penetrated into its gloomy recesses, and from the bones of animals strewed around within, we concluded it must be the
retreat of some of those beasts of prey which inhabit these
forests and coasts.
About the cape at different places, grow the large orange
yellow raspberries of a new species. The shrubbery often
grows to the height of twenty feet, and more generally in
the forests than in open places, and equally fruitful. They
are more inviting to the eye than agreeable to the taste.
While we were detained here, our men belonging to the
Columbia caught a large number of codfish. They taste





ARRIVAL AT OAHU.


349


very much like, and resemble those taken upon the banks of
Newfoundland, excepting they are a little shorter. This is
the first time they were known to exist in these waters;
the Indians knew nothing of them before, and they eagerly
took those we did not need.
On the 25th, the bar being smooth, with only a light wind,
though ahead, and the tide favoring, the Beaver weighed
anchor and put out to sea for her northern voyage. She
went over the bar finely, and could have towed us over, but
it being her first experiment, it was not thought advisable.
On Tuesday the 28th, the wind and tide were favorable
for passing the bar, and we set sail at half past three in the
afternoon. There was a heavy rolling sea; and every man
at his post, one on each side of the ship constantly throw.
ing the lead to take the sounding. Four fathoms and a half
was the least, and this was little enough considering the
heavy swell. The bar has a very bold termination; for
we passed from seven fathoms to no sounding, where the
sea presented its dark blue. The land receded, and in a
few hours disappeared; and nothing was to be seen but
one wide expanse of ocean. Our voyage to Oalu,* Sandwich islands, was attended with nothing remarkable, excepting it was performed in much shorter time than usual,
being only sixteen days from the time we left the Columbia river, to our anchoring in the roads of Honolulu. We
took our direct course, and kept it without any variation,
and with a few exceptions without shortening a sail, the
distance of two thousand five hundred miles. An almost entire uniformity marked our progress, and excepting the


* Pronounced Wauhoo.





PtUBLIC WORSHIP.


common alternations of day and night, sunshine and clouds,
nothing interrupted the monotony of the scene.
On the morning of the 14th of July, land was announced.
The islands of Ranai and Morakai were near, and as we
passed them, we had a near view of the latter. It is not so
mountainous as most of the others of the group, and presented rather a sterile aspect. We soon after made Oahu,
and passed on the east side around Diamond hill to the har.
bor of Honolulu on the south. This harbor is the best and
almost the only good one in any of the groups of the Polynesian islands. The entrance is somewhat intricate, and
requires an experienced pilot to take ships in safely. With.
in the coral reefs the water is sufficiently deep for ships of
almost any magnitude; and this, with the long extended
roads without the reefs which afford good anchorage, renders the port desirable, and the island, in a commercial
point of view, the most important of any in this part of
the Pacific ocean.
We went on shore, two o'clock in the afternoon, and I
was invited by Rev. H. Bingham to his house, where I met
several of the other missionaries, and felt much rejoiced to
behold again a Christian community.
The heat of a vertical sun was very oppressive and enervating, and was it not for the refreshing effects of the daily north-east trade winds, it would be insupportable by a
northern constitution.
On Sabbath 17th, I attended worship in the native church,
and heard Rev. Mr. Bingham preach in the Hawaiian lan.
guage to a very large assembly of natives, probably two
thousand five hundred, who gave very good attention. They
were all decently dressed, while some of them were in the
European mode, the most of them were dressed in their na.





THE PARI.


351


tive costume, and made a good appearance. Their conduct
and attention were very becoming, and many listened with
deep interest. Madam Kinau, the queen regent, and the
royal family, were present; and although it was easy to
distinguish them from the common people, yet they made
no ostentatious display of royalty. Their dress was rich
but plain, and they paid sober attention to the worship of
God. The performance of the singers was good, but there
was not that melody in their voices which characterizes the
Indians.
The house of worship is large and commodious, one
hundred and ninety feet long and sixty-two feet wide, built
in the native style, a large frame, with the roof and sides
covered with thatch.
Oahu is the most northern of the Sandwich islands, situa.
ted in north latitude 210 18' and in west longitude 1580
"38'. Its greatest length is forty-five miles from Koka on
the south-east to Kakana on the north-west. The great.
est portion of the island is on the north.east of this line.
Its greatest breadth is twenty-eight miles from Kahuku on
the north to Laeloa (Barber's Point) on the south; about
four fifths of the island is on the east of this line. The
island is very mountainous; the highest eminence is called
Honahuanui, and is a little over four thousand feet. The
Pari, at the upper end of the valley of Nuuanu, north of
Honolulu, may be counted among the curiosities of the
island; principally on account of its being a part of the
main road, or rather the only one to Keneohe. It is one
thousand one hundred and forty feet above the level of the
sea, and six hundred feet nearly perpendicular. This is to
be clambered up and down in passing from Honolulu to
Keneohe, and to a stranger it is a fearful undertaking, as it





352


DECISIVE BATTLE.


is necessary to have a native to assist in putting your feet
into the crevices of the rocks. And yet the natives pass up
and down with their calabashes of poi, and their loads of
melons, fish, and other commodities, without any difficulty
more than fatigue.
Some years ago, in a war between Tamehameha and the
king of Oahu, the final battle was fought here which decided
the fate of the island. The king of Oahu made a desperate
struggle; and one part of his routed army, numbering more
than three hundred, were pursued to this precipice, forced
down, and almost all were dashed to pieces.
On each side of this pass, needle-pointed mountains rise
up two thousand feet forming a narrow chasm, through
which the north-east trade winds rush with great violence.
Before you, at the north, you have a very pleasing view of
the fertile valley of Kolou; and beyond is a fine prospect
of the bay and wide spread ocean. The valley between the
Pari and Honolulu is seven miles long; the upper part of
which is narrow and very picturesque. Interesting cascades are seen dashing down the almost perpendicular
mountains, and the whole scenery is covered with fresh
foliage. This was almost the only place where the cool
and invigorating breezes gave me relief from the oppressive
heat. The lower part of the valley is wide, and covered to
a great extent with taro patches.
Taro is a bulbous plant of the genus arum, and is planted
in hills'upon patches of ground, so formed as to be partially
flooded with water, somewhat after the manner of rice cultivation. In eight or ten months after setting the plants,
they are fit for use. To prepare it for food, it is always necessary to roast it, to take out the pungency which is common
to the genus, as found in the wild turnip. It is frequently





VALLEY OF MANOA.


353


eaten for bread with no other preparation except roasting;
or it is converted into poi by pulverizing and making it into
a stiff paste. The natives prefer the poi after it has undergone the acetic fermentation.
East of this valley is another called Manoa, about five
miles in length, running north from Diamond Hill. It is
well watered by streams descending from the mountains,
formed by showers of rain which frequently fall upon them,
and which sometimes extend to the valleys and plains. Its
fertile soil is well cultivated with sweet potatoes, taro, and
melons. At the upper end, Kaahumanu, the late queen regent, who died in 1832, had a house built for retirement from
the bustle of Honolulu, and for devotion, near a beautiful
cool grove of ohia and kukui trees,* on an eminence commanding a view of the valley below. Near this dwelling,
she caused a house to be built for the accommodation of
the missionaries, when they should wish for rest, and to be
refreshed with the invigorating air of the mountains. The
evidences of her Christian character were convincing. Her
piety was active. She traveled through all the islands, from
time to time, to see that the people attended upon the means
of religious instruction, and the schools; and to recommend
the religion of the Bible to all classes of her subjects. Her
example, as well as her authority, was powerful in suppressing intemperance, and the many vices which threatened the
ruin of her country. Her influence was felt not only by
her own people, but also by foreigners who resorted to those
islands.
When I visited this spot of remembrances, the buildings
* The kukui tree bears a nut as large as a black walnut, a string of
which is used for candles, and hence the tree is called the candle tree.
31





354


HONOLULU.


were far gone to decay; but not the cherished regard of her
piety and philanthropy. This spot presented a very pleasing view of the high and precipitous mountains around on
every side; excepting the south, which is open and exhibits
to view the grandeur of the rolling ocean. The many cas.
cades around upon the mountain sides added to the interest
of the scenery. Among the variety of shrubbery, we found
the coffee tree with its fruit in various stages of maturity;
the arrow root; and the brake fern growing, in many instances, to the height of twenty feet. From a bulb, near
the root, is taken what the natives call hapuu, a silky down,
which makes excellent beds and cushions.
Honolulu is situated on the south side of the island, on a
bay of the same name, and is the capital and business place
of all the islands. The land around and on which the village
is located is a dry barren, excepting on the north and northwest, which is moist and cultivated with taro patches, with
some cocoa trees interspersed. The buildings generally are
in the native style, thatched; many are built with doba walls
after the Spanish manner on the coast of Mexico and Peru,
that is, with large sun-burnt bricks made about two feet
long, eighteen inches wide, and ten inches thick. The clay
is mixed with cut straw to strengthen them, after the manner of the ancient Egyptians. Their enclosures are built
in the same manner. There are several good buildings
made of rock coral in English style, some of which are spa.
cious and well finished. The village contains about nine
thousand inhabitants, three hundred of whom are English
and Americans. Most of the commercial business and trade
are carried on by foreigners, to a large amount, increased by
the resort of whale ships, in the fall and spring, for repairs
and fresh supplies, particularly vegetables; it is the place





OLD HEATHEN TEMPLE.


355


where all other shipping touch which navigate this ocean
from Europe and America, in the Chinese and East India
trade.  This place is constantly growing in importance,
and must continue to do so from its local advantages.
Four miles south-east of Honolulu is the pleasant native
village of Waititi, situated on the bay of the same name.
It contains five or six hundred inhabitants, is situated in a
beautiful grove of cocoa trees, which adds very much to its
appearance and comfort. This place, if cultivation was
proportioned to the richness of the soil, might be made one
of the most delightful spots on the island.
The only road, or any thing that deserves the name of a
road in this island, is between this place and Honolulu.
About two miles east of this village are the remains of an
old heathen temple, in which human sacrifices were offered;
a part of the walls of the enclosure are still standing. Va.
rious methods were employed to obtain victims. One of
which was to lay a tabu upon all the people in the whole
region around, that no one for a certain period of time
should go out of their dwellings, or make any fire in them,
upon pain of death. If any violated the tabu, they were
apprehended and sacrificed to their idols. If they were unsuccessful in obtaining victims in this way, they would send
out men in a canoe, to range along between the coral reef
and the shore, and to feign distress, and if any were decoyed out for their relief, they were apprehended and carried
to the temple and offered in sacrifice.
It is a pleasing consideration, that the benign influence
of the gospel has dispelled these bloody and cruel superstitions of heathenism. I had an opportunity of seeing an
old man who had been a high priest in these bloody rites.
He has no hope that he is interested in the salvation of the





356


WAIALUA.


gospel, but he said it is maitai, (good,) and that the Christian
religion is so firmly established in these islands, that their
ancient idolatry can never again be revived. He saluted
me with many alohas.  Mr. Bingham gave him some account of my journey across the Rocky Mountains and the
object. He replied that it was good, and that God was with
me and preserved me. He said in their former religion,
they were all ignorant-all was darkness, entire darkness,
but now the light shines. He said that when Captain Vancouver visited these islands in the reign of Tamaha, lie urged
the king to renounce idolatry, and the king promised he
would, when Christians would send from the land of light
a minister to teach them in the right way. They waited
until their king died without knowing the right way, and no
one came until Mr. Bingham and his associates in the year
1820. This old heathen priest gave up his religion and his
honors, took Mr. B. by the hand on his first arrival, and
called him brother, and has ever since been friendly to
the missionaries.  His wife, whom I also saw, hopes that
she has experienced the saving power of the gospel.
Fourteen miles west of Honolulu is Eva,* a village of considerable magnitude, but not very compact. It is situated
on Pearl river, at the head of a large lagoon extending seve.
ral miles inland, and is surrounded with a fertile valley
reaching twelve miles north, which is two thirds of the distance to Waialua. The highest elevation between these
places is about four hundred feet, and is intersected in va.
rious parts with deep ravines. Eva is the station which
Rev. Artemus Bishop and wife occupy, whose prospects
of usefulness are encouraging. When I was there, the na.
* Pronounced Ava,





KENEOHE.


357


tives were engaged in building a substantial and commodious house of worship, and appeared to take deep interest in
the effort.
In the north-west part of the island, is the village of
Waialua, where Rev. John S. Emerson and wife are stationed. The village is situated upon a wide spread bay,
which would furnish an excellent harbor for any shipping,
if there was sufficient water upon the bar at the entrance.
The valley around is large and fertile, capable of being
made very productive. On a sabbath which I spent here,
eight natives, six men, and two women, were received into
the communion of the church, who appeared very intelligent and serious, and conducted with as much propriety as
is seen in the most civilized parts of the world. I felt a
satisfaction in joining with these redeemed heathen in the
ordinance of the Lord's supper.. Every part of divine service was conducted with Christian decorum. I was particularly pleased with the appearance of the native deacon,
who was dignified in his person, dressed in good taste, and
very devotional in his behavior.
The only remaining village of any considerable importance is Keneohe, where Rev. Benjamin W. Parker and
wife are stationed. This village is in the fertile valley or
Kolou, near the shore of a pleasant bay, which would af.
ford an excellent harbor if there was sufficient water at the
entrance over the coral bar. This village is about four
miles north of the Pari, and is the most cool and refreshing
retreat I found upon the island. The basaltic mountain on
the south, three thousand feet high, and nearly vertical; and
the north-east trade winds give a temperate atmosphere,
not found in any other part of the island sufficiently low
for a village.
31*





358


SALT LAKE.


The greatest part of the island is mountainous, though
but two ranges are of considerable magnitude. The largest,
Koanahumanui, is on the east side, and runs parallel with
the ocean, and its highest point is four thousand feet above
the level of the sea. This range of mountains is diversified
with cones, acute points, and paries. At the great Pari,
the upper end of Nuuann, the main chain turns to the west,
and terminates towards Waialua. The north side of the
range, west of the Pari, is very precipitous, having many
spurs projecting to the north, including deep, pit-like ravines.
The other range is on the west part of the island, called
Kaala, running north and south, separating Waianae on the
west, from the valley of Eva on the east. The highest
point is three thousand eight hundred and fifty feet. There
are many conical hills of different magnitudes in various
parts of the island, which were evidently ancient craters;
one six miles south-cast of Honolulu, called Diamond Hill;
and another a short distance north of Honolulu, called Fort
Hill. They are open and concave at the top, with high
walls, reeded down the sides, which appear to have been
formed by streams of lava, and by the action of water cut.
ting ravines. There is an abundance of lava and other
volcanic productions about these hills.
The salt lake, four miles west of Honolulu, is of the crateric form. It is a great curiosity, as well as source of
trade. It has undoubtedly a connection by some subterraneous passage with the ocean, near which it is situated.
Its depth is not known, being nearly filled with excellent
crystalized salt, which appears to be inexhaustible, and is
taken out in large quantities for use and exportation. The
lake appears as if covered with ice, a little sunken below
the surface of the water.





PRODUCTIONS.


359


The geological formations of this island, and all the others
in the Pacific which I saw, and concerning which I obtained information, are volcanic and coraline to a great
extent. Some have supposed that these islands have been
thrown up in the first place by internal fires, and then enlarged by coraline additions. But there is too much argillaceous soil to favor the opinion; and to say the least, the
supposition is without conclusive evidence. Much of the
soil is formed of disintegrated and decomposed lava. The
reefs lying off from the shores, and in some places immediately upon them, are corals. The corals are divided into ancient and modern, the latter still increasing. Between these
formations is a volcanic deposit. The ancient corals are
found in many places forming the surface of the plains, elevated some six or eight feet above the present level of the
sea. As the zoophytes, which form coral, never work above
water, it is evident that these islands have been elevated by
some subterranean or submarine power, or the ocean
is subsiding; and as this recession of the ocean is seen in
various parts of the world, in nearly, if not the same degree,
is it not probable that the waters of the ocean are gradually
diminishing? Of the modern corals there are many species,
from the rock to the most beautiful kinds resembling trees
and plants, and of various colors. The volcanic formations
do not differ materially from those in Oregon Territory.
Cellular lava is very common, often bordering upon pumice,
and of various colors; brick red, ash colored, orange yellow,
and green. No primitive rocks are found, nor any silicious
sand; the sand upon the shores being formed either of disintegrated lava, scoria, or coral, but more generally combined of these three elements.
While I shall not attempt a minute enumeration of the





360


ANIMALS.


productions of these islands, the following are some of the
principal. The cocoa tree, bread fruit, coa tree, which fur.
nishes lumber nearly equal to mahogany; hybiscus, candle
nut tree, mulberry, fig, cotton tree, which grows spontaneously and produces cotton of very fine quality; coffee
tree, grape vines, oranges, lemons, limes, pine apples, melons
of superior quality, squashes, sugar cane, arrow root; indigo plant, which grows finely without any care; the guava,
a fruit resembling mandrakes, but not agreeable to the taste
of those not accustomed to them; taro, sweet and common
potatoes, and bananas. There are many ferns of extraordinary size, and the cactus opuntia, familiarly known as the
prickly pear, growing to the height of six or eight feet, is
planted in hedge-rows for enclosures. All the most superb
tropical flowering plants luxuriate in these islands, among
which we find the oriental lilac, eight different species of
mimosa, the pride of Barbadoes, several varieties of convol.
vulus, and mirabilis, the passiflora or passion flower, roses,
the Spanish pink, Mexican pea, and many other beautiful
genera. Also garden vegetables of various kinds.
These islands when discovered by Capt. Cook, contained
but very few animals, and most of those now found upon
them have been since introduced from the Mexican coast.
There are now, horses, mules, neat cattle, goats, hogs, dogs,
fowls. The birds which have their residence here, though
not numerous, are of most beautiful plumage, and the favor.
ite head ornament of the women, is made of the golden
colored feathers of a native bird. The crow and raven,
which are common in almost all parts of the world, have
not found their way here. There are very few reptiles, but
the green lizard is very common, and in the days of the
idolatry of the Islanders was worshiped, and such is the in.





GOVERNMEMT.


361


fluence of superstition, that they can hardly dismiss all feelings of reverence for this insignificant reptile.  If one
comes into their dwellings, they choose to let it take its
own departure rather than molest it. Snakes are unknown,
and the scorpion and centiped have within a very few years
been brought here in vessels.  The musquitoe was not
known until recently, though now they are numerous and
very annoying.
The government of these islands is absolute and heredi.
tary, administered by the king, queen, and chiefs, whose will
is the supreme law; the common people are a nation of
slaves. The lands belong to the government, and are leased
to the people at high rents, and even then they have no security that they shall enjoy the avails of their labor; for
beside the stipulated rents, the government make any addi.
tional demands they please, and the people are taught to
obey without complaining. The persons of the chiefs are
remarkable for their extraordinary size, towering quite
above the height of the common people, and in corpulency
preserving corresponding dimensions. The king secures
his house and person by life guards. Very frequently on a
Saturday morning, the queen regent, attended by her train
and servants in equestrian style, visits her garden some two
miles from Honolulu. Their appearance is fine and they
are well skilled in horsemanship.  Her ordinary mode of
riding is in a small, low-wheel carriage drawn by twenty
servants. The Sandwich Islanders, or kanakas, as the com.
mon people arc called, have less activity of body and mind than
the Indians of our continent, and yet a phrenologist would
say that their intellectual powers are well developed. In
their present political condition, they are not expected to be
otherwise than indolent and improvident. In their dress,





362


TEA PARTY--DOG FEAST.


mode of living, and habitations generally, they have made
but little advance upon the days of heathenism; some in
the interior, especially, wearing little more clothing than
their maro, and having their dwellings in caverns in volcanic rocks. The chiefs, and some of the people, have
good houses, dress in good fashion, and live comfortably.
The king, queen regent, and chiefs, gave a tea party, to
which with a few others I had the honor to be invited.
They were dressed richly and in good taste; the table was
splendidly arrayed with silver plate and china; the entertainment was both judiciously and tastefully arranged and
prepared, and all the etiquette and ceremony of such occasions was observed.  The conversation was cheerful and
intelligent, without frivolity, and nothing occurred embarrassing to any one. At a suitable early hour, we were in.
vited into a saloon well furnished, where, after a performance of music, both vocal and instrumental, the queen pro.
posed that prayer should conclude our agreeable visit; after
which the company retired. I have seen but few parties
in Christian America conducted more on the principles of
rationality and religion.
An entertainment, however, is sometimes transacted in a
different style by some of our countrymen and other foreigners in those islands. A dog-feast as it is there called,
was given by foreign resident gentlemen, on the 20th of
Sept. at the country seat of the American consul, in honor
of the officers of the American squadron, the Peacock and
Enterprise, then in the harbor of Honolulu. I extract from
the account published in the Sandwich Island Gazette as described at the time. "Food in native style was bountifully
served up-baked dog was among the dishes, and it was not
to be despised. Songs, toasts, cheers, bumpers, and speech




DECREASE OF POPULATION.


363


es all came in their turn. Among the toasts were, 'Commodore --    our Commodore.' Commodore's reply, ' May
you all live a thousand years, and may we always meet
here.' Doctor -    of the United States ship Peacock.
'Population and prosperity to the Sandwich Islands, and an
end to all oppressive tabus.' The party separated teeming
with good spirits."
The population of these islands has been decreasing ever
since an acquaintance has been had with them. Captain
Cook estimated the people at 400,000. The present population is about 110,000. A variety of causes have conspired to bring about this declension, and yet no one so promi.
nent above the rest, as wholly to satisfy enquiry. It is
acknowledged by all observers, and it has become evident
to the government itself, that a change of things in the in.
ternal structure of their national affairs, is necessary to the
prosperity of the people. During my stay at Oahu, the
heads of the nation had frequent meetings to discuss the
subject of reform and improvement, and to adopt some new
mode of administration which will give to the people the
privileges of freemen, and thereby stimulate them to indus.
try. To effect this, the lands must be distributed among
the people, a more equal mode of taxation must be adopted,
industry must be encouraged, and progressive prosperity
will follow in train.
The perpetuity of the independence of this nation, and
with it their existence, is very problematical. A disposition
to possess these islands, has evidently been manifested by
foreign powers. Whether the paw of the lion, or the talons
of the eagle, shall first make them its prey, or whether they
shall be mutual checks upon each other, and thus prolong
the life of this feeble nation, is not known. The manner





364


FOREIGN RESIDENTS.


in which the king and chiefs are often treated by the olticers of foreign nations, the insults they often meet with,
would not pass with impunity from a more powerfil people.
In fair and honorable negotiations, regard is had to mutual
rights, but here foreigners assume the style of dictation;
"You shall and you shall not;"-and assertions are made
of things existing in the laws and practices of England and
America, which neither government would tolerate. Lord
Russel, the commander of the Acteon, a British man of war,
obtained the signature to a certain instrument, by assuring
the Hawaiian government that if they refused any longer
to sign it, he would order all the English vessels to leave the
harbor, and request all the American shipping to withdraw;
and then bring his armed ship before their fort, and batter
down the walls, and prostrate their village. The king sign.
ed the instrument, and then together with the queen and
chiefs, like some other people who feel their feebleness before
a mightier nation, had only the poor resort of a public remonstrance. They accordingly sent a remonstrance to the
king of Great Britain, in which they say, that " on account
of their urging us so strongly; on account of said commanders assuring us that their communication was from the
king; and on account of their making preparation to fire
upon us,-therefore we gave our assent to the writing, without our being willing to give our real approbation; for we
were not pleased with it."  They feel incompetent to contend with naval strength, and therefore submit to indignities
from which their feelings revolt. Why cannot the principles of justice and equity, govern the intercourse of men
with men,,where they are so well understood, and the painful necessity be spared of innocence and helplessness supplicating that protection which Heaven grants to its children.





FOREIGN RESIDENTS.


365


Much has been said of the character of the foreign res.
idents, and of the counteracting influence they exert upon
the labors of the missionaries in this field. The cause of
their bitterness and opposition is well understood, and lest
my own observations should seem partial to the missiona.
ries, and invidious toward those who oppose them, I will
embrace all I have to say on the subject in a quotation from
a work published by Mr. J. N. Reynold of the voyage of
the Potomac, an American man of war. He certainly
cannot be accused of partiality to the missionaries who
reside on these islands, for his remarks on them are somewhat acrimonious, but in regard to the foreign residents
he says, "they are generally devoid of all religious principle, and practice the greatest frauds upon the natives in
their dealings with them; which tends to corrupt their
morals, and to preclude all hopes of fairness in trade among
them. It cannot be denied, and no one can regret it more
than we do, that this whole population, generally speaking,
are of the lowest order; among whom every thing like
decent restraint which civilized society imposes upon its
members, is at war with their vicious propensities, and of
course resisted by them to the extent of their power." He
farther adds, "let us be distinctly understood in the remarks
we have made in reference to the foreign residents and missionaries on this island. As to the question, which party
is on the side of virtue and good order, there can be but
one opinion, where there is not even room for comparison,"
I have been in communities where vice has been as unblush.
ingly indulged, but I have never witnessed direct enmity to
every thing morally good, in so much bitterne  and power,
as in Oahu.
Most of the foreign residents have native wives, and
32





366


ROYAL CEMETERY.


manifest a regard for the education of their children; and
send some of them to other countries for this purpose; but
for most of them a charity school has been established, and
for its support a call is made upon the commanders and
officers of vessels who come into this port; and they have
even sent to England and America for charitable aid.
Though some poor are taught here, yet I know not why the
benevolent should help, by way of charity, the consuls and
rich merchants in Oahu.
I visited the seamen's chapel and preached several times
for Rev. Mr. Diell. While there are often several hundred
seamen in the port of Honolulu, there are frequently very
few attendants on the regular services of the chapel. Rev.
Mr. Diell, their worthy chaplain, is however indefatigable in
his labors through the week, visiting sailors on ship board,
and wherever he can find them, endeavoring to promote
their spiritual good. Some conversions have crowned his
efforts.
On the occasion of the funeral of an infant of the Princess, whose husband is Leleiohoku, alias Wm. Pitt, I visited
the burial place of the kings and royal family. This is a
stone building of rock coral, of the common size and struc-.
ture of the houses of the village, and situated amongst them,
having nothing particularly distinguishable except an out.
ward signal, by which is understood the number and rank
of the dead within. They are encased first in lead, secured
from the admission of air, and then deposited in coffins of
elegant workmanship, and ornamented with silver or brass
plate, covered with rich silk velvet or damask of crimson.
Here sleep the remains of Rihoriho, and Kamehamalu, who
died on a visit to England, and several others lying in state;
and in the same tomb, are interred a number of other members of the royal family.





MISSIONARY SUCCESS.             367
The missionaries of the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions in these islands, have done much
to elevate the character of the population, by teaching and
preaching the truths of Christianity, by schools, where
the first rudiments of education are taught, by the press,
and a translation of the entire bible; they have exerted a
salutary influence upon the morals of the whole nation, and
raised a monument to the power and excellence of the gos.
pel of Jesus Christ. They have also laid instrumentally,
a broad foundation for the political, and social, and religious
improvement of that people, unless thwarted by the interference and opposition of foreigners, and for the future and
unending happiness of many redeemed souls in the world to
come. I had frequent opportunities of witnessing the effect
of their labors in the evidences of the moral renovation of
these once idolaters, and of meeting with them in their
great congregation on the sabbath.





368


HOMEWARD BOUND,


CHAPTER XXVI.
Departure from Oahu in ship Phoenix for the United States-call at
the Society Islands-brief description of Tahiti and Eimeo-severe
gales of wind-Magellanic clouds-Martin Vass island-Trinidadarrival at New London.
FRoM July to November, no vessel departed from the
Sandwich islands direct for the United States, and after
being detained about five months, waiting an opportunity
to return, I engaged a passage in the Phoenix, Allyn, from
New London, and embarked December 17th. The ship was
built for the China trade, of four hundred and ten tons,
manned with twenty-eight persons, besides five passengers.
The pilot boat left us well out at sea, at nine in the morning;
our course south-west. On the morning of the 21st, we en.
countered a strong wind, which in the afternoon had in.
creased so much, that we were compelled to put two reefs
in the top.sails; and a squall split our jib and sprung our
foremast. I had no opportunity or disposition to enjoy
the grandeur of the rolling ocean, being confined to the
cabin by sea sickness. Our ship was engaged in the whaling business, and I was furnished, for once, with an opportu.
nity of seeing the experiment of taking a whale.  The
thing has often been described, but the novelty of the manoeuvre interested me. The experience and skillful whale.
men dispose of the dangerous process, with the tactics of
their profession, in a manner much beyond my conceptions
before witnessing it; and the monster of the deep, though





TETUAROA AND TAHITI ISLANDS.


369


mighty in his strength, is made to submit to inferior power,
and to -contribute largely to illuminate our evenings at
home. When the whale is brought along side of the ship,
the whalemen dissever the head from the body, and hoist
it on deck, and while some are employed in perforating the
scull, and with a bucket taking out the sperm, others make
a spiral incision in the oily portion, beginning where the
head was taken off; and by rope and hook suspended by
a pulley twenty feet up the mainmast, draw up the oily
part which cleaves from the flesh, while the body of the
whale revolves in the water; and this process is continued
until all that is valuable is secured. There are said to be
thirty thousand men employed in this business in the Pacific,
while only about four hundred are engaged in diffusing the
light of life through the dark places of the earth.
January 12th, 1837. Through the whole of to.day we
had strong gales from N. N. E. Our top.sails were close
reefed,-split our main-top.sail. Headed to the E. close on
the wind. Very bad sea-not able to take any observation
of our latitude or longitude. These gales continued on the
13th until almost every sail was taken in, and we lay to on
the wind. The last part of the day was more moderate,
and we headed south. By observation taken to-day, our
latitude was 140 47' south.
Sabbath, 15th. The winds subsided, and the weather was
warm. In the morning we came near Tetuaroa, a small
island of the Society group. It is low, the highest parts rising
but a few feet above the level of the sea, is thinly inhabited,
and adorned with large and beautiful groves of the cocoa
tree extending even to the water's edge. The fresh verdure of
this island in all the luxuriance of perpetual summer, was a
delightful contrast to the constant view of thewater for
32*





370


PAPEETL


nearly a month, and I felt as though these gems of the ocean
were scattered here to refresh the tired voyager and bring
to his mind the recollection of his own dear home. Like all
the islands of this ocean which I have seen, it is surrounded
with coral reefs, lying off at a little distance from the
shore, and upon which the sea constantly breaks. In the
afternoon we approached the harbor of Papeeti, at the island
of Tahiti. The pilot came off to us, and made an effort to
get the ship in, but did not succeed, the wind being too light,
and we had to bear off for the night.  The prospect
as it lay spread out before us was a combination of
all that was beautiful in nature. Nor am I alone in the
impression which this little "1 Queen of the ocean" makes
upon a stranger. Others have described it with all the vividness which its romantic and delightful scenery inspires.
The harbor forms a gentle curve, and in the foreground, on
a level tract were scattered neat cottages built of thatch, or
wood, plastered and whitewashed with coral lime, situated,
together with the church, in the midst of bread-fruit, cocoa,
and orange groves. The back ground of the enchanting
picture was filled up with hills and valleys, and streams
dashing their way down the ravines, and then meandering
through the rich vale below, to the ocean, while the outline
terminated in steep and lofty mountains. But not the least
interesting were the marks which the Christian religion
and its attendant, civilization, have made.  Here was a
church, and to know that this people had lately been rescued from paganism, and all the hideous forms of idolatrous
worship, raised in my heart emotions of pleasure and grati.
tude, which not even nature's fairest forms had power toawaken. An immortal spirit elevated from the dust, and
raised to heaven, a monument of the Savior's grace-what
can equal it?





CHRISTIANITY AND CIVILIZATION.


871


Monday morning, the 16th, we passed safely into the
harbor, where we found the Daniel Webster, Pierson, from
Sag Harbor; on board of which were Rev. W. Richards
and family, passengers for the United States.
We continued in this port four days, during which time
I made several excursions about the island, and became acquainted with the English missionaries, of whose successful labors I had often heard and read; the Rev. Messrs.
Wilson, Pritchard, and Darling, and their families. They
appear happy in their work, and devoted to it.   The
Christian religion is the only religion acknowledged in
these islands, and its influence is universally apparent.
As the conversion of multitudes in the first ages of
Christianity, has ever been considered as furnishing
evidence of the truth of the gospel, so the " moral miracle'"
of the conversion of the islands of the sea, in our own day,
is calculated, with all its attendant circumstances to confirm our faith, as well as to encourage us in prosecuting
still farther those benevolent designs, which render the de.
serts, both naturally and morally, the garden of the Lord.
Besides preaching on the sabbath, the missionaries have religious service on other days of the week. At sun-rise every
morning they have a public prayer meeting. They are
doing much by their schools and the press; and most of the
people can read. The performances of the natives in vocal
music pleased me, their voices being very soft and musical,
though less cultivated than those of the Sandwich islanders.
Their personal appearance, complexion, language, and dress
are much the same as the natives of those islands. Their
advances in the arts and in agriculture are less than might
be expected of them, but in a climate where so many rich
fruits vegetate spontaneously, the necessity of cultivation is





372


GOVERNMENT.


less imperious. While the harbor is not as good as that of
Oahu, less is done by way of wharfing, or otherwise to facilitate business, or aid in repairing the shipping which
visit this island. A good public road has been commenced
to extend around the island, on which convicts, instead of
being imprisoned, were employed, but it is now neglected,
and all the bridges are broken down.
The government here is much the same as that of the
Sandwich islands, but is in some respects more free and
systematized. Their judiciary is well organized, and justice is tolerably well administered. Their legislative body
is composed of the queen, governors, chiefs, and two representatives from each district of the islands of Tahiti and
Eimeo; the laws when framed are canvassed by the people,
and if approved, receive the queen's signature. The young
queen Ponfare is of very prepossessing appearance, possess.
es talents, and decision of character; but her views of civil.
ization are not so enlarged as those of Madam Kinau.
The American consul, of these islands, resides at Papeeti; he is a Dutchman, and as he informed me, a native and
citizen of Antwerp. ils English is hardly intelligible, and
his knowledge of the duties of his office is yet to be acquired.
The islands of Tahiti and Eimeo, like the other large
islands of the Pacific, are volcanic and coraline. They
are mountainous, many of which are high and steep, and
many of the valleys are deep and narrow, extending far
into the interior. To a considerable extent the soil is rich
and productive; oranges and all other tropical fruits being
abundant, and requiring little labor or care. Such is the
indolence of the inhabitants that they cultivate little besides
sugar cane and a few vegetables. These islands are well





CLEANLINESS OF THE ISLANDERS.


373


supplied with forests, in which are several kinds of wood
equal in value for cabinet work to mahogany. The heat
for the most part of the year is so oppressive that though
many things are very pleasant, yet these islands come short
of the paradise which some journalists have described.
These, like the other islands of the Pacific, have been di.
minishing in populousness. Various causes, such as the
introduction of foreign diseases, infanticide, human sacrifices, the means furnished by commerce of rendering wars
destructive to human life, and the introduction of ardent
spirits, have all contributed to this end. It is estimated that
only about twelve thousand people inhabit the two islands
of Tahiti and Eimeo, and about forty thousand the Georgian and Society group. The introduction of the Christian
religion has banished many causes of their decline.
The cleanliness of the islanders is a subject worthy of
remark. Their practice of frequent ablutions and sea bathing, to which they are induced by the climate and of which
they are fond, including all descriptions of persons, and even
children, is highly conducive to health, and promotes a taste
for neatness in their persons not common to heathen nations.
Wednesday, 18th, I accompanied Mr. Pritchard in his
pastoral labors, about seven miles, on horseback, where he
preached to a congregation in a village in which the queen
has her residence. The queen Pomare was present, and
an interesting audience appeared to listen as if they were
hearing the word to obey it. After the meeting we pursued
our ride about seven miles farther, to Rev. Mr. Wilson's at
Point Venus, a lovely spot, situated in orange groves and
bananas. Our way thither was around the base of hills
and mountains which approached near the beach in pre.
cipices, and where the opening through the coral reefs per




374


PUBLIC FEAST.


mitted the sea to break on the shore with a noise like thunder,
so that we had to watch the opportunity afforded by the receding waves, to pass their points. Any but native horses,
accustomed to the sight, would have denied us a safe passage.
With these dear missionaries I partook of a cheerful dish of
tea, while we talked of the interests of the kingdom of our
common Redeemer, and of the time when fellow laborers
from every part of our lost world, and from their different
spheres of agency, when their work here is done, shall be
gathered to their Father's home in heaven.
In the evening we returned to Mr. Pritchard's, on my
part delighted with so refreshing an interview.
During my short stay, the queen and royal family of a
neighboring island, paid a visit of friendship to Tahiti.
This afforded me the very desirable opportunity of remarking the manners and customs of the people. A public feast
was given in honor of the royal visitant; and the day was
ushered in by firing rusty guns, of which they have a very
few.   The morning until ten o'clock was occupied in
collecting together their cocoanuts, bananas, baked hogs,
&c. Many were out to purchase calico scarfs of two or
three yards in length to wear in the procession..A very
large procession formed, the women taking the lead, and the
men following in order. A female with an infant in, her
arms led the van. This was explained to me as done in
honor of motraers; for here, as well as at the Sandwich
islands, women are regarded as in all respects on a par with
men. All were well attired in European style, their heads
adorned tastefully with garlands of most beautiful tropical
flowers, with which their sea-girt isle abounds in profusion.
After taking, in single file, a long and circuitous march, they
arrived at their feasting bower, under a grove of cocoanut,
Ab





PREPARING FOR SEA.


375


bread-fruit, and orange trees, where near the centre, with
an infant, sat the royal visitor; and each Tahitian as they
passed, threw down at her feet their scarfs or some other
present. It was the pleasure of the queen, however, not
long to retain all these tokens of honor, for she seemed happy
in generously giving them to others. After the procession
had passed in respectful review, next came the refreshments,
which were placed, some on the ground, others suspended
on boughs of trees, which were taken and shared in little
circles seated upon the grass, evidently enjoying the social
interview. This is considered one of their most joyful holi.
days, and was managed without noise, confusion, or any
apparent infraction of the rules of propriety. It must be
recollected that this is a temperance island; all traffic in
ardent spirits being prohibited by law.
In taking leave of these islands, I would not fail to mention the kind hospitality of Rev. G. Pritchard and family,
and the satisfaction I had in seeing the other missionaries,
and witnessing the interesting fruits of their labors under
the blessing of God.
Our stay at Tahiti was employed by the ship's crew in
disposing of our poor sulphureted water from the Sandwich
islands, and in re-supplying themselves with the pure mountain streams of this island, and in "vegetating the ship," as
they phrase it, that is, by collecting quantities, which are
purchased of the natives, of oranges, bananas, sweet pota
toes, limes, cocoanuts in abundance, bread-fruit, yams, and
squashes. Here I collected for my cabinet, some choice
specimens of coral, and shells of the ocean, which the natives dive to obtain, and sell to the ships which enter this
port.





.376


MAN OVERBOARD.


On the morning of Saturday 21st January, we left the
harbor of Tahiti with a light wind, and as we sailed around
Eimeo, its mountains, with their densely wooded tops and
precipitous sides, appeared in full prospect. On this island
there is a high school for the children of the missionary
families of the several islands.
We proceeded with a favorable wind until the 80th, when
our latitude was 300 27' south, and longitude 1530 10' west.
I was here much gratified to witness the interesting phenomenon of a water spout. It first became visible to us
about half a mile distant as it arose, and at that distance
we had no apprehensions of danger from it, and yet it was
sufficiently near to give a distinct view. It commenced in
a small, dark, and nearly perpendicular column, enlarging
its diameter as it rose until it reached the region of the
clouds, when apparently feeling the influence of the wind,
it passed obliquely to the south-west. It continued in view
some time, but as we were proceeding on our course, it grad.
ually disappeared.
On the 4th of february, fresh breezes from the north.
west took the place of the south-east trade winds, and our
course was laid E. S. E.
On the 5th, we had strong gales from the west. Put two
reefs in the top-sails, and took in the mizzen-top.sail, and
handed the main-sail. The sea was very heavy. On the
9th the wind was more moderate; and while engaged in
spearing porpoises, one of the men fell overboard from the
bow, and went directly under the ship, and came up under
her stern. The life buoy was thrown over to him, but
being an indifferent swimmer he was long in his efforts
to seize it. By lowering the boat and rounding about the
ship, he was recovered on board much exhausted, and almost





HEAVY GALE.


377


overcome with the cold. Hundreds are daily, by a great
variety of occurrences taken from the world, and the certain knowledge awakens but feeble sensations in our bosoms;
but a solitary case of individual danger and suffering which
we witness, arouses all our anxieties and sympathies, and
we are grateful when relieved by the safety of the sufferer.
On the 16th and 17th, the gale was tremendous. We
were in latitude about 47~ south, and 120~ west longitude.
With nearly every sail taken in, we could only run before
the wind, which was north-west, and the waves were constantly breaking in over our bulwarks. Such was the
roaring of the wind and breaking waves, that it was difficult for the orders of the captain to be heard, upon his
loudest voice, from midship, forward or aft. The wind
blew tons of water into the air and scattered them into
ten thousand sprays. I never had such evidence of the
power of wind and water, nor of the admirable manner the
ship could live in such a gale. She would roll upon the
waves and plunge and rise again upon the mountain billows.
The whole scene was fraught with magnificence, terror, and
grandeur. It was a great favor that we had a courageous
and experienced captain; and a sober, active, and obedient
crew; and above all the protection of Heaven. Two men
were constantly at the wheel, selected from our best steersmen. We shipped a great quantity of water, and on the
night of the 17th, the fore deck had scarcely at any time,
less than a foot or two feet of water, the waves breaking
over faster than the water could pass through the scuppers.
Two pumps were at work a large portion of the time to keep
the ship clear, so much water was constantly finding its way,down the closed hatches and other leakages of the deck.
33





378


THE NODDY AND ALBATROSS.


The two men at each pump labored so forcibly, that it was
necessary to be relieved by others every three minutes. I
reflected on the condition of those who were not prepared
for death, and that even to a Christian a quiet deathbed
would be preferable to leaving the world in such a scene of
confusion. But we were spared in great kindness, and the
following morning the wind began to abate. Captain Al.
lyn, who had been into most of the principal seas, and around
both of the great Capes, said he never saw, except in a ty.
phoon which he encountered on the Japan coast, any gale
which equalled this.
The gales continued with frequent squalls of hail and
rain until the 28th, when we found we were driven to the
590 of south latitude, and 770 west longitude. This was
farther south of Cape Horn than we wished to go.  The
weather was cold and thick, the thermometer ranging between 410 and 470 for several days. On the 1st of March
we saw for the first time after leaving Tahiti, a sail to the
windward heading south.west, but were unable to speak
her. It was very pleasant to find our latitude lessening in
our homeward course, though we were not up with the Cape
until the third of March. During the gales, and especially
in stormy weather, our vessel was very frequently visited
by a bird which navigators call the Noddy, and which is
easily taken by the hand. It is of the Tern genus, twelve
inches long, slenderly formed; its plumage is a dark sooty
brown, excepting the top of its head which is dusky white.
The Albatross also was constantly flying about us, regardless of wind and waves. Our men caught several of them
with a hook, the heads of which, when standing upon the
deck, were four feet high; their aler measurement was ten
feet. Although they are generally of a brown color, yet in





MAGELLANIC CLOUDS.


379


the region of Cape Horn, they vary from a mixture of brown
and white, to an almost entire white. They are the Jargest class of the feathered race.
We had for a long time an opportunity of observing the
Magellanic clouds; which are three in number, two lumin.
ous and one black; about thirty degrees distant from each
other, and fixed in their relative situations as are the fixed
stars. Although I had noticed them, supposing them to be
clouds, and wondering how an illuminated cloud should be
seen at all times of the night, and preserve its position with
an outline so well defined and so plainly marked, yet my
mind was not wholly satisfied respecting them, until the
Mate of the ship, who had seen them in previous voyages,
and who possessed considerable astronomical knowledge,
pointed out to me some of their characteristics. The weather in those high southern latitudes being so uniformly thick
and cloudy, prevented our observing them so early, or care.
fully as we might otherwise have done. They were distinct.
ly visible for weeks, keeping their relative situation. and their
altitude above the southern horizon lessening to the beholder
according, as his latitude diminished while he proceeded
north. Their undefined forms are about five degrees in diameter. The luminous ones undoubtedly are formed by
clusters of stars, so numerous and contiguous, and yet so
distant, as only to give a glimmering light like luminous
clouds, which gives them their name; and the black one is
very probably the entire absence of all light. I gazed at
these, night after night, with wonder and admiration. It
seemed to me, that looking at the dark one, was looking beyond created nature into infinite space.
Gales occurred occasionally after we doubled Cape Horn,
but most of the time was pleasant and the winds favorable,





380


FUNERAL AT SEA.


until the 27th of March in south latitude 230 27', and west
longitude 280 34', the wind came around to the north, and
continued to blow from a northerly direction for ten days,
which retarded our progress, and carried us off our course
to the east, until we were brought into 260 west longitude,
where we changed our course west by north. On the first
of April, we spoke an East Indiaman. She was a very
large, fine-looking ship, of about eight hundred tons, well
filled with men, women, and children, who probably were
passengers for New Holland. This was the first ship we
had spoken after the Spartan, near the line on the other
side of the continent. It is difficult to imagine how plea.
sant it is to see and speak a ship after having been months
at sea. A few hours-after, we saw another East Indiaman,
but did not speak her. By falling in with these ships, we
found we were so near Africa, that we were in the track of
ships from Europe to the Cape of Good Hope.
The same day we buried one of the seamen in the great
deep. He was a man who in early life was trained up in
the care of pious parents, but whose after life was marked
by vices, which in their consequences led to a comparatively early death. It was a solemn scene when we committed
his remains to the watery grave. The colors were raised
half mast, the whole ship's company collected around, the
body, with weights attached, was laid upon a plank at the
gang-way; and we paused to dwell for a moment on death
and the dread scenes beyond. I addressed them in a few
remarks suggested by the occasion, and after a prayer, the
plank was gently moved over the side of the ship, and the
dead disappeared to be seen no more.
On the 2d, we made Martin Vass islands, which are five
in number, composed wholly of volcanic rocks, without any





MARTIN VASS AND TRINIDAD ISLANDS.


381


soil; some of them are cones, shooting up four or five hundred feet. Two are very small and needle pointed. They
are all so precipitous, and the sea constantly breaking
against them, that there is no landing. Their forms are
fantastical; one of them having the appearance of a forti.
fication with bastions, about which are needle points resem.
bling men on guard. They are in 20~ 31' south latitude, and
28~ 38' west longitude. By changing our course more
westerly we made Trinidad, off against St. Roque, which is
an island of considerable size, and in latitude 200 28', and
longitude 29~ 5'. Near evening we were fifteen miles from
it, and wishing to land in the morning, we took in sail and
lay off for the night. Some Portuguese once settled upon
it, but it is so difficult of access, that they abandoned it, and
it is now without any inhabitants.
On the morning of the 3d, we ran down to within three
miles of the island, and manned three boats to go on shore;
but finding no place free from breakers, gave up the at.
tempt, caught a few fish near the shores, and after being
much annoyed with flies which came off to us, we returned
to the ship, and with a favorable breeze pursued our course.
This island is also volcanic, has an iron-bound shore, and
is mountainous, the highest part of which is about fifteen
hundred, or two thousand feet. It is a place of resort for
multitudes of birds and sea fowl, some of which are large.
I had an opportunity to see, but not to examine, the man-ofwar hawk. They are numerous here, and while they are
handsome, they are also ravenous, always taking their prey
upon the wing. There were many of the perfectly silky
white species of the Tern, which hovered over us with great
tameness, as though they wished to form an acquaintance
with us, not suspecting any hostility.
33*





382


EVENINGS AT SEA.


Most of our nights as well as days for a long time were
clear, and the stars were seen with remarkable brightness.
What has been described by others of evenings at sea, in
the southern hemisphere, I had an opportunity of observing
with admiration. The richest colors of red, orange, and
yellow, spreading over the western sky after the setting
sun, and often over the whole concave of heaven. No pencil of art can imitate the tints and hues which blend in softness over this scene of beauty. Nature's pencil only can
lay on these delicate shades, and add to it the brilliancy,
ever varying, of so much richness and splendor.
In the deep seas we did not see many fish; of the few
which came under our observation, the dorado, or as corn.
monly called, the dolphin, and the pilot fish excelled in the
beauty of their colors. The former, when taken upon deck,
constantly changed its colors from the bright purple to the
gold, the bluish green, and the silver white, and these spreading out into vanishing shades. The pilot fish is equally
beautiful, but is singular in the choice of company and employment; always being found with the shark, and conduct.
ing him to his prey, from which it derives its name.
The flying fish is a curiosity, furnished with powers for
occupying both air and water, but finds no friend in either;
pursued by the dolphin or some other fish, it swims with all
speed until it can no longer escape its destructive enemy,
and then takes to flight in the air, where the albatross and
the man-of-war hawk hover to make it their prey. In its
flight it often falls upon the decks of ships, where man shows
it no mercy.
On the 19th of April we passed the equator. For a few
days we had calms or only light winds with showers. The
heat was very intense, and to be becalmed under these





CROSS THE EQUATOR-LAND DESCRIED.


circumstances is more to be dreaded than gales. But wce
were much favored, and soon found ourselves in north latitude, and it was with sensations of delight that I again
beheld the North Star, though but just above the horizon.
I hailed it as the harbinger of good, and the future guide
to the long forsaken home and friends which I now realized
that I was fast approaching.
All objects at sea are considered worthy of notice, and
we observed the gulf weed in great abundance before we
came to the gulf stream. It is an aquatic plant of a pecu.
liar light green color, and floats upon the surface of the
water. We entered and passed the stream on the 14th of
May, in 360 37' north latitude; and though a rough sea is
generally expected here, yet we had a very pleasant time.
The current is at the rate of three miles an hour, and the
temperature seven degrees warmer than the adjacent water.
On the 17th of May, at three in the afternoon, we were
cheered with the cry from the man at the mast head, "Land
ho! ahead."  It proved to be Block Island. We came in
sight of the light-house in the evening, but too late to attempt to get into the harbor before morning, and therefore
lay off for the night. In the morning we found ourselves
among various shipping bound to different ports.  We
passed Montauk Point and drew near to New London, where
the sight of the city, the shipping in the harbor, the country
around, and the islands dressed in green, were most grateful,
especially to one so long conversant with heathen countries
and a wide expanse of ocean. Passed up the Thames to
the city, and I rejoiced to land once more upon Christian
and civilized shores, my native land, my country! In taking
leave of the Phoenix, I felt it due to the captain and crew
to say, that I received from them every kind attention 1





384               ARRIVAL AT HOME.
could wish, and being a temperance ship, I did not hear a
profane word from any while on board. We had public
worship, duringr the voyage on the Sabbath, and the word of
God was blessed, as there wvas reason to believe, to the
saving conversion of some souls. I found kind friends in
New London, and after arranging my business, directed my
way to Ithaca, where I arrived on the 23d of May, after an
absence of more than two years and two months, and having
accomplished a journey of twenty-eight thousand miles.





APPENDIX.
VOCABULARY OF INDIAN LANGUAGES.
NEZ PERCE LANGUAGE.


English.
God,
Spirit,
Father,
Man,
Woman,
Mother,
Child,
Brother,
Sister,
Husband,
Wife,
I9
Thou,
He,
She,
IN
They,
People,
Heaven,
Earth,
Water,
Fire,
Snow,
Rain,
Wood,
GrassI


Indian.
hemitakis Tota.
koonapa.
tota.
iat.
p~ka.
meaits.
tiskeep.
axsip.
w"aipna.
emnim.
aiat.
fie.
ela'hne tetokian.
tetokian.
accomlpenaka.
waitush.
COOS.
aula.
inaika.
waikit.
baits.911
pax.





386


VOCABULARY.


Hell or bad spirit,
Horse,
White Bear,
Black Bear,
Beaver,
Otter,
Deer,
Moose,
Buffalo,
Wolf,
Salmon,
Trout,
Gun,
Powder,
Ball,
Stone,
What is that?
Who is that?
There,
Here,
Where,
When,
How many?
None,
All,
Plenty,
Near by,
Great way off,
This road,
Stop,
Go,
Run,
Go fast,
Step here,


koonapa kapseish.
shecum.
h&hats.
eakat.
taxpull.
collas.
enishnim.
taissheep.
cocoil.
siyah.
natso.
wowalthum.
temoon.
popokes.
saip.
pishwa.
etu ke.
eshe ke.
koone.
kEne.
mene.
mowwa.
moits.
sIou.
oekalla.
elahne.
keemta.
wyat.
iskit.
collo.
coetuc.
willaikit.
haum teets.
collo kene.





VOCABULARY.


367


Encamp,
Sleep,
Eat,
I hear,
You hear,
I understand,
Come,
I know,
You know,
He knows,
They know,
I do not know,
Talk,
Ride,
Wait,
Swim,
Love,
Hate,
Kill,
Alive,
Make,
Take,
Carry,
Give,
Pay,
Make fire,
Worship,
Smoke,
Sun, moo0n,
Prairie,
Mountain,
Friend,
Chief,
Nez Perce,


wispeix.
penemeek.
hipsh.
en amachish.
em amachish.
6n amacus.
conme.
en soko.
em soko.
emim soko.
elahne tetokan soko.
waiitu en soko.
tumtein.
wyatcus.
coats.
shuway.
aitou.
waiitu aitou.
wapseou.
waikus.
ainees.
enip.
enip coeta.
enahanim.
tumaitcus.
ailix.
tolla poosa.
keiEta.
hasumtooks.
paix.
mashun.
sextua.
meahat.
nfimepo.





1388


~38B         VOCABULARY*


Blackfoot,
Bonnax,
American,
Frenchman,
Head,
Hair,
Arm,
Leg,
Foot,
Cloth,
Saddle,
Pack,
Beads,
Good,
Bad,
No,
Yes,
Great,
Small,
Sick,
Well,
To-day,
Yesterday,
Once more,
White,
Black,
Red,
Vermillion,
Paint,
1 ox.
2 lapeet.
S metait.
4 p60ep.
5 pahut.


quasne.
tuelca.
sucapo.
allima.
hoo-shus.
hookoo.
arturn.
waiu.
akooa.
tahea.
supen sapoos.
supen saps.
collowin.
tois.
kapseis.
waiitu.
ai.
hemakis.
coots.
comitsa.
penamina.
tax.
watish.
nox emaka.
hihi.
cinmo cimmeo.
ilpeip.
ailish.
penasuet.
6 elaix.
7 quoenapt.
8 wvemuttut.
9 quotes.
10 poetumpt.





11 nox tit.
12 lapeet tit.
20 laap tit.
30 metaip tit.


VOCABULARY.
40 pelap tit.
50 pahap tit.
100 pooetap tit.


389


VOCABULARY OF THE KLICATAT NATION, WHO INHAEIT
THE COUNTRY NORTH OF THE CASCADES.
English.                 Indian.
God,                     Meyoh.
Evil spirit,             melah.
Sun,                     an.
Moon,                    ulhigh'.
Stars,                   kashlo.
Fire,                    lokkowouks.
Earth,                  te 'tsum.
Water,                   chow wass.
Stone,                   'p's swah.
Wood,                   il quass.
House,                   enneet.
Bread,                   shappleel.
Fish,                    t'kuinnat.
Deer,                    owinnat.
Bird,                    'hat 'hot.
Cow,                     moos moos stun.
Horse,                   kosee.
Dog,                     kosikkosee.
Boat,                    qukssass.
Man,                     wince.
Woman,                   iyet.
Girl,                    p'teeniks.
Boy,                     asswan.
Fingers,                 pahhahtopat.
Foot,                    wattekas.
Toe,                     owhunghe.
Tongue,                  melleese.
34





390


Ear,
Mouth,
Lip,
Black,
White,
Green,
Yellowý,
Red,
Good,
Bad,
High,
Low,
Many,
Few,
Little,
Who '7
What'1
Knife,
Bow,
Arrow,
Gun,
Sea,
River,
Lake,
Mountain,
Hill,
Valley,
Plain,
Here,
There,
Near,
Far off,
Night,
Day,
Where,


VOCABULARY.
misshu (phi.) pesahrnisshu.
nietolla'lhhow.
urn, (plu.) pesali urn.
chi-rnook~..
pillas.
penahkunnootowas~s.
klutsa~h.
seyah.
chilooeet.
'quaahrne.
hugh'llak.
millah.
iksiks.
sindewah.
Sinrnisswah.
hahhittelme.
toominpass.
kiasso.
toowinpaSS.
attackass.
whnnah.
watturn.
'ke'h.
pussque.
'tkop.
tak.
itche.
ekkone.
'tsahpah.
weat'tpah.
'tset.
-echoosah.
niinnan.





VOCABULARY*.


When,
I wvalk,
I talk,
None,
I know,
I have known,
I see,
I hear,
I taste,
I smell,
I,
Thlou,
Hle,
She,
Head,
Eye,
Back,
Comle,
Go,
Give,
Large,
Smaller,
Smallest,
Beauty,
All,
True,
False,
Chief,
Common men,
My father,
My mother,
Elder brother,
Younger brother,
Sister,
Husband,


rnittach.
inikwenahsah.
sinwesah.
chahow.
assook sah.
mewe sah sooh sab.
Z~nahfikheno sah.
innasick salt
quatas sah.
annookse sali,
salt.
imk'.
equak.
equakiik.
clilamntukh.
tats'k.
lioopkoop.
winnum.
winnak.
annik.
Incite.
rni'nche.
ooksooks.
seeghiewab.
k'lhiweek.
chawnumnsisk.
t'sis.
kool'ltup.
wullun-teen.
hahtootas.
naheclas.
nahnahnas.
incoks.
inchats.
inman.





392


Yes,
No,
Beaver,
Rabbit,
Cat,
Wolf,
Bear,
Otter,
Laziness,
Sleep,
Soft,
Strength.
Swan,
Goat,
Beads,.
Cold,
Hard,
* lah's,
neep't,
Imettapt',
peneep't,
pahhat,
p'tuhninis,
tooskats,
pahhahhemaht,
'tsawlawsirnkah,
h~tem,
*lah'swappena,


VOCABULARYdeh.
waht.
wispuss.
sinwe.
wasswass.
enahte.
'hollecs.
nooksi.
ilkkah.
'tsotah.
uquatuquat.
h'too.
whhhalow.
powyanin.
k'pput.
'tsoisah.
k'ttet'k.
1'2 necp'twa~ppena.
13 mettaptwhtppenal7
20  fleeltit,
30metft Aptit,
40  peneeptit,
50  paihhaiptit,
90  p'tuhninsaptit,
70  tooskahsdptit,
80  pahliahtusap'tit,
90  'tsauloclisaptit,
100  potemtit.


4
9
Rc
I11


VOCABULARY OF THE CALAPOQA N~ATION.


God,
Heaven,
Evil spirit,
Hell,
Sun,


'ntsompate
ahlupklooah
ehwakehe
owievenah
'npeun





VOCABULARY.


Mloon,
Stars,
Fire,
Earth,
Wind,
Water,
Wood,
Stone,
Bone,
House,
Bread,
Fish,
Deer,
Elk,
Bird,
Horse,
Cow,
Dog,
Boat,
Man,
Woman,
Boy,
Girl,
1,
Thou,
He,
She,
My father,
Your father,
Mly inother,
Elder brother,
Sister,
HUsband,
Wife,


'ntope
'ntsalowah
Ummi
umpullo
'ntolouh
'mpahke,
owaAttUk,
'ntugh
'Intsa
ummi'
shappleel
'ntumuak
ammoke'
'ntokah
noknok
kuetan
mioosmoosQ
'n'tul
4mpaw
'noihee
ehiwahktsut
ehiwahipyah
gimpeena
tsa
mali
annoihe
ahwahikkotsut
hum nee
makkan nee
sin nee
tAt
shetup
tahwahke
tahwahke


34*





394


394           VOCABULARY.


Yes,
No,
Head,
Mouth,
Chin,
Teeth,
Arm,
Hand,
Finger,
Foot,
Ear,
Black,
White,
Blue,
Green,
Red,
Good,
Bad,
High,
Low,
Many,
Few,
Large,
Small,
Who,
What,
Knife,
Bow,
Arrow,
Gun,
Sea,
River,
Lake,
Mountain,
Valley,


aw
kussowe
unqua~h
tinte
'tkk
tinte
t'ntooque
t'lakiquah
taw'Inah.
teuofoh
toandunkaht~h
m0'
mow,
rnipulunk.
pitchish
'tselow
misso
kaskali
tshainayurik
Wallah
milloe,
'mponuk
pellah
ietoo
me'eh
annikkee
'nkamistik
unchin
sun'owsukla
mullak
'ntsok
wassetnummeke
peotahmefook
a'Ilali





VOCABU~LARY.39


3 9 15


Night,
Day,
Here,
There,
Near,
Far ofl,
Where,
When,
To talk,
To walk,
None,
I see,
Beaver,
All,
Chief,
Common men).
Come,
Go,
Give,
Swan,
Rabbit,
Wolf,
Bear,
Sleep,
Hard,
Soft
Boil,
Itowneb.
2  kamah,
3  peshin,
4  tohwah.
5  wul,
6  th ffo,
7  p'sinmcwe.


mooyoo
'nlpeyon
m'hash
pliefari
'mehillalt
m'lokkio
mutchoo
tahnondel
tanuk
'nwa
chats'on hot' n
'nkipeah.
teloh
'ntsombeek
anwoekee
mahek
tattea
niahaque
mow
umpon.
molent
'mmo
towi
'p'tsAkkolloo
liplip
Ske'mewve
9  'quisteli
10  teeneefeah Ali_
i1 teenefeahpetownai:
12  teenefeapekamiah
20  keefotenefeah.30  p'shintenefeah





396


396          VOCABULARY.


40  topwatenefeah,       100  tenefeah
5i0  wultenefeah       1000   tuinpeah.
VOCABULARY OF THE CHENOOK LANGUAGE AS SPORE!"
ABOUT FORT VANCOUVER.
God,                      Cannum
Heaven,                   coosah
Earth,                   illaha
Fire,                     olaptska
Water,                    isuck
Sea,                      wecoma
River,                   ibolt
Sun,                      otlah
Moon,                     ootleum.
Evil spirit,             skokoom
Hell,                    skokoorn
Boat,                     conim
Knife,                   ibpitsah
Gun,                      sucwhl a
Powder,                   poolalla
Ball,                     colic-tan
Air,                      kummataz
I9                        nika
Thoui,                    mika
He,                       yahkah
She,                      ya~hkah
It or them,               kiaska
Chief,                   tie
Boy,                      kaskas
Girl,                    l'kpho
Sister,                  idits:
Father,                  tilecummama
Mother,                   st'll mama
People,                   tilecum.
Yes,                      a14 aha
No,                       wayiCk or wiikc





VOCABULARY.


43977


Good,
Bad,
Very bad,
Large,
Small,
Far,
Little way,
Great way,
To go fast,
Not fast,
Black,
White,
Blue,
Red,
Green,
High,
Low,
Now,
Much,
Little,
Who,
What,
Mountain,
Valley,
Where,
Here,
Night,
None,
Bear,
Beaver,
Fox,
Wolf,
Deer,
Horse,


close
wake close
mestsa
hias
tunas
sia
tunas sia
hias sia
clatua hiiic
wake hiuc
klaait
t'koop
spock,
pelpil
peteish
saghalle
kekulle
withat
oghooway
tunas
'tkaksta
ikta
saghalle illaha
kekulle illaha
c ^h
ookook
pollakle
haloo
siano
cena
tiskowkow
leelo
moueech
kuetan





398


VOCABULARY.


Cow,
Dog,
Salmon,
Bird,
Speak,
I speak,
Thou speakest,
He speaks,
They speak,
Make,
I make,
Thou makest,
He makes,
They make,
Come,
Perhaps, or I do not know
Understand,
I understand,
Now I understand,
Sleep,
I have, or it is with me,
I walk,
Long ago,
See
Eat,
1 eght,
2 moxt,
3 none,
4 '1 kit,
5 quinum,
6 tohhum,
7 sinnamox,


moosmoos
kamtix
quanagh
kallakalla
A Av
Wwaw
A A~
nica wawa
mica vwaw
vtkka wxwv
klaska wlwa
mammook
nica mammook
mica mammook
yhkka mammook
klaska mammook
chawko
clunas
cumetax
nica cumetax
alta nica cumetax
moosom
mitlit nica
nica clatuwa
aunacotta
noneneech
mnucamuc
8 stoghtkin,
9 quiitz,
10 taughlelum,
20 moxtthghlelum,
40 'lakitthghlelum,
100 taughlelum taughlelum,


The Philologist, by examining the specimens of the lan.
guages in the foregoing vocabularies, will notice how en




ADDENDA.


399


tirely distinct they are from each other, and may form his
own opinions in regard to their origin. The languages of
other Indian nations are equally distinct. The use of the
commas, as in 'ke'h, mountain, 'noihee, man, is designed
to designate a guttural sound, wholly inarticulate.
ADD ENDA.
Since the chapter on geology was put to press, I have
received a communication from a valuable friend, requesting
a particular description of the trachyte formation in the
volcanic productions beyond the Rocky Mountains, that a
judgment may be formed of the age of the volcanoes, wheth.
er they were not cotemporary with those in the south part
of France, as presented in Puy de Come, Puy de Pariou,
and other conical mountains. I have remarked upon this
subject in the description of the changes from the primitive
to the volcanic formations, on page 327. I would farther
remark, that granite and basalt are in several locations
which I examined, so associated and contiguous, that the
granite structure shades off into the trachyte in degrees so
imperceptibly, that it would be difficult to say where the
one ends and the other begins. Not having had an opportunity to examine the trachyte localities in France, I leave
it for learned geologists to form opinions of their comparative ages.
Although missionary intelligence in regard to the Indians
of this country is before the public, yet I feel a peculiar
pleasure in stating, that the American Board have already





400                  ADDENDA.
sent out six families, who occupy three different stations,
one upon the Walla Walla river, among the Cayuses and
Walla Walla tribes, another on the Cooscootske river among
the Nez Perc6s, and the third in the region of Colvile. Al.
ready, churches have been organized, schools established,
improvements made in agriculture; and a revival has been
enjoyed which has resulted in the hopeful conversion of
many, who, when I saw them, were raising a supplica.
ting voice for the bread and the water of life; so that "they
who sow and they who reap are rejoicing together."
The Methodist church has lately sent a large reinforce.
ment to their mission in that country, under circumstances
which promise much good to the Indians, and afford cause
of encouragement to the Christian and philanthropist.










AL
AM



















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