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WAR DEPARTMENT, - - ADJUTANT-GENERAL'S OFFICE.
No. XXVIII.
REPORT
ON THE
ISLAND OF GUAM.
JUNE, 1900.


I=




-


WASHINGTON:
GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE.
1900.






I




WAR DEPARTMENT, - - ADJUTANT-GENERAL'S OFFICE.


No. XX\  II1.
R E I' (0 R T
(N   '11 1i
IS LAN      OF GUAM


BRI(;. (,GEN.RAl, J{)shi'1J   WVt;! l 1,,  lJ..S. AiRMY.. I' N I,"', /:. o.
WAS I I I N(  ( )N:
G(V,'I,;R'N M I',;NT 'R I IN'TIN( () FFICE.
I () U().








WAR DEPARTMENT,  -  -.ADJUTANT-GENERAL'S OFFICE.
No. XXVIII.
REPORT
ON THE
ISLAND OF GUAM.
BY


BRIG. GENERAL JOSEPH WHEELER, U. S. ARMY.
JUN L, I oo.
WASHINGTON:
GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE.
I 900.




I




REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.
ON BOARD U. S. TRANSPORT WARREN,
February 12, 1900.
To the PRESIDENT, Commander in Chief,
(Through the Adjutant-General U. S. Army),
WIashington, D. C.
SIR: I have the honor to respectfully submit the following
report:
At 4 o'clock in the afternoon of January 14 1 received the
following telegram:
BAUTISTA, LUZON, P. I.,
January 14, 1900-2.23 p. m.
General WHEELER, Panique:
The department commander directs that you proceed to Manila as
quickly as possible and report to him in person. Please acknowledge
receipt.
MACARTtIUR, MIi!jor-General.
Panique is nearly 90 miles from    Manila.   In compliance
with the above order, I took the first train to Manila. I left
Panique on the morning of the 15th, reached Manila about
dark, and immediately reported to General Otis, who told me
that he had orders for me to proceed to Guam, and from
thence to San Francisco, after complying with instructions
regarding the island of Guam.      He informed me that he
expected a steamer to sail for Guam in about two days.
On January 17 I received the following order:
[Extract.]
Special Orders,     HDQRS. IEPARTMENT OF THE PACIFIC,
AND EIGHTH ARMY CORPS,
No. 16.  J                    Manila, P. 1., January 16, 1900.
5. In obedience to War Department instructions of the 13th instant,
Brig. Gen. Joseph Wheeler, United States Volunteers, is relieved from
duty with the department and corps, and will proceed by way of the
island of Guam to San Francisco, Cal., where upon arrival he will report
to the Adjutant-General of the Army for orders. Under these conveyed
instructions, General Wheeler is hereby directed upon reaching Guam to
delay a sufficient time to investigate conditions existing there, the admin5




REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.


istration of the United States officer in charge, the work accomplished and
in contemplation, and the public advantages the island affords by reason
of location and physical features. In the interest of necessary legislation
and Executive action, General Wheeler will fully report the result of this
directed investigation to the.proper authority as soon as practicable. The
travel enjoined is necessary for the public service.
By command of Major-General Otis:
THOMAS H. BARRY,
Assistant Adjutant-General.
I was ready to embark at any moment after reaching
Manila, but the steamer upon which I was directed to sail did
not leave until the afternoon of January 24, and she was compelled to go by way of Hongkong to get sufficient coal for the
voyage.
I arrived at Guam on the morning of Tuesday, February 6,
reaching the shore about 1.30 in the afternoon. Proceeding
to the palace at Agana, a distance of about 5 miles from Piti,
the landing place, I called upon and presented my orders to
Governor Leary. I had previously forwarded to him a letter
from  Admiral Watson, which the Admiral had intrusted to
me, at the same time giving me a copy, which is as follows:
UNITED STATES NAVAL FORCE ON ASIATIC STATION,
FLAGSHIP BROOKLYN,
Cavite, P. I., January 19, 1900.
SIR: 1. The military governor of the Philippines, Major-General Otis,
under instructions from the War Department, has directed Brig. Gen.
Joseph Wheeler, United States Volunteers, to visit Guam and delay a sufficient time to investigate conditions existing there, the administration of
the United States officers in charge, the work accomplished and in contemplation, and the public advantages the island affords by reason of location and physical features.
2. This investigation is to be made in the interest of necessary legislation and Executive action.
3. The telegram authorizing this detail is signed "Corbin," and mentions that " The President would be glad to have Joseph Wheeler perform
this duty."
4. You are hereby directed to receive General Wheeler with all the consideration due his rank, distinguished services, and high character, and
will give him unofficially all possible information and facilities for the performance of his mission. You must, however, decline to recognize his
instructions as official.
Very respectfully,
J. C. WATSON,
Rear-Admiral, U. S. Navy, Commander in chief,
United States Naval Force on Asiatic Station.
Capt. R. P. LEARY, U. S. N.,
Commanding First Division, Asiatic Fleet, Guam.




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REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.


Two days after receiving the above letter I had received
from the office of the military governor in the Philippines
the following:
OFFICE OF THE UNITED STATES MILITARY GOVERNOR
IN THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS,
Manila, P.I., January 22, 1900.
To Brig. Gen. JOSEPH WHEELER, U. S. V.,
Manila, P. I.
GENERAL: The following is received at this office and is furnished you
for your information:
"FLAGSHIP BROOKLYN," Cavite, P. I., January 21,1900.
"Sir: Referring to my letter of January 20, relating to the visit of General Wheeler to Guam, I have the honor to inform you that the Navy
Department has telegraphed to the following effect:
"'By order of the President, Gen. Joseph Wheeler proceeds to Guam.
Captain Leary is to be directed to recognize General Wheeler's visit as
official, but General Wheeler's authority is only to report upon the condition of things at that place.'
"I request that Brig. Gen. Joseph Wheeler, now serving under your
command, may be informed of the receipt of this telegram.
"Very respectfully,
"J. C. WATSON,
"Rear-Admiral, U. S. Navy,
"Commander-in-Chief, U. S. Naval Force on Asiatic Station.
"Maj. Gen. E. S. OTIS, U. S. V.,
"Military Governor, Manila, P.."
Very respectfully,                    C. H. MURRAY,
Major and Inspector-General, U. S. V., Secretary.
This letter I presented to Governor Leary, and after a short
consultation the governor very courteously accompanied me
about the city, a place of between 6,000 and 7,000 inhabitants,
and at 3.30 p. m., having been furnished with horses, I rode
across the island, a distance of 7 miles, to the hamlet of Pago,
which is situated on a small, shallow harbor on the east side
of the island.
A small river empties into the sea at this place. Several
men and women were engaged in fishing when I arrived at
the hamlet, and the rather extensive arrangements of wicker
fences extending into the sea indicated that fishing was the
principal occupation of the few people who lived in the village. Formerly the place was visited by small vessels to procure fresh water and provisions. I returned that night,
reaching Agana at 8 o'clock. During the entire distance
across the island, 7 miles, we saw but few settlements, most
of the road passing through a densely wooded country.
The next morning at daylight I started out again, taking a
road which runs to the northern end of the island. Part of




8.


REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.


the road is near the sea, but the greater part is inland, with a
dense thicket upon each side. We ascended Santa Rosa peak,
from the top of which I had a view of probably one-third of
the island. That night I returned to Agana, reaching that
place between 8 and 9 o'clock. I was accompanied upon these
two trips by Lieutenant Safford, Mr. Garrett, my secretary,
and Mr. Bengough, a journalist, who succeeded in securing
some fine photographs, which he has kindly allowed me to
use in illustrating this report. I had planned to start the
next morning, Thursday, February 8, on a trip to the southerif part of the island, but finding that arrangements for
transportation could not be completed in time, I therefore
devoted both Wednesday evening and all of Thursday to conversations with the governor, with his aid, Lieutenant Safford,
and citizens of Agana, and also in visiting places in the
immediate neighborhood.
The next morning at daylight Lieutenant Safford, Mr. Garrett, and myself started to make a circuit of the southern end
of the island, visiting the towns of Asan, Agat, Umata, Merizo, and Ynarajan, reaching the latter place about 8 o'clock
that night, our entire journey being very nearly if not all of
30 rmiles.
The next morning, Saturday, February 10, at 6.30 o'clock,
we started across the island in a diagonal direction to the harbor of San Luis D'Apra, which we reached at 1.30 p. m., the
route taken necessitating a ride of about 15 miles. From this
point I went in a native boat to the town of Sumai, where I met
the lieutenant, or "gobernardorcillo," of the town and other
leading people. Here I was met by the steamer's boat, which
took me on board the Warren, when we promptly set sail for
Honolulu.
GEOGRAPHICAL FEATURES AND POPULATION.
I can not learn that the island of Guam has ever been surveyed, but its area may be stated at about 150 square miles,
one-half of which, it is estimated, is susceptible of cultivation.
Nearly all of the land is still virgin soil, my information being
that only about 1 per cent is now under cultivation.
The population is about 9,000 souls, nearly all of whom reside in the towns. Those who own ranches also have rude
houses on them, where the family spends a portion of its time.




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REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.


9


The population of the towns is about as follows:
Agana...-..... ---.........  6, 400  Agat..-.....-.............. 400
Sumai.-... --- —........ —.  900  Merizo.-..............-..... 300
Ynarajan... ---........-..-  550  Umata...................... 200
The land which is regarded as arable is very fertile, producing cocoanuts, oranges, lemons, cacao, rice, corn, tobacco,
sugar cane, beans, tomatoes, etc., the cocoanut trees having
an appearance of thrift and bearing power superior to those I
have seen in any other part of the Tropics.
Deer and wild goats are found in abundance and for years
formed the principal meat food of the Europeans (Spaniards).
Cows and pigs are also reared. Potatoes, maize, and rice are
indigenous, and cocoa, coffee, and hemp are cultivated, the
latter only to a limited extent.
The road from Agana to the north of the island passes
through an especially fertile country. In this section there
is a large table-land, and where clearings haye been made the
ranches are in a good state of cultivation. All other parts of
this table-land' are covered with a very thick jungle, which
can with difficulty be penetrated by a man on foot. The
same statement might be made of the arable land in the country bordering on the sea in the southern and southeastern
part of the island. In these sections, however, there are
more open spaces, and more attention seems to be given to
the cultivation of cereals.
TREES AND PLANTS.
In the wild and thickly covered regions, among other trees
and plants, grow the following:
Pandan.us. From the long, slender leaf of one species are
made mats and hats. The leaves are stripped and hung from
cross beams in huts to dry, as is tobacco. The mats are
braided diagonally, as in many other Polynesian islands. The
Chammorros have never understood the art of weaving with
looms.
Lemionia trifoliata (Lemoncita, also called Lemonchina).
Berries when dark red, delicious. Makes excellent marmalade, having the flavor of Curacao liqueur.
Afzelia bijuga, called "Ifil" by the natives.  Wood in
appearance something between black walnut and mahogany.
A valuable hard wood of wide distribution, especially known




10


REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.


in Guam. Known in the Philippines as the "Ipil."  Wood
hard, heavy, and durable, but brittle; good for cabinet work,
furniture, and construction.
Artocarpus incisa, so named from cut leaves. This is the
Breadfruit. The Dugdug variety, having the leaves not deeply
lobed, bears fruit with edible seeds, the common breadfruit
being seedless. The wood of the Dugdug is valuable fol
cabinet work and for construction where protected from rain.
The Dugdug and the other breadfruit trees grow to enormous
size on this island. The trunk of the former is supported
about its base with flat, radiating buttresses.
Anwna muricata (Sour sop), of the Custard apple family.
Makes delicious jelly.  In Jamaica called "Sour sop;" in
Guam called 'Laguana."
Plantains and bananas are abundant. The best variety of
bananas was introduced from Manilla.
Ficrus. There are several species. The largest, a banyan
with abundance of aerial roots, is called "Numby" by the
natives. This wood is practically useless; the small figs growing upon it are eaten by the birds. It is of great size, and is
regarded with superstitious reverence by the natives.
Jatroph/a purgans, the physic nut. Allied to castor bean
and crotons. Taken in any quantity is poisonous. Instances
known of deaths of children from eating nut. It is commonly used throughout the tropics for hedges. Stakes of it
thrust into the ground readily take root and soon send forth
leaves and branches.
Cordyline terminalis, called "Ti" or "Ki" il Hawaii, and
considered sacred by the old Hawaiians, who planted it about
the graves of the dead to keep away the evil spirits. The
belief in spirits inhabiting forests and lonely places is widely
spread throughout the islands of the Pacific. In Samoa they
are called "Aitu," in Guam "' Gente del Monte," or People
of the Woods, often described as being headless and jumping
on the backs of people going through the woods at night, as
did the devils upon the saints of old. They are supposed to
frequent especially the vicinity of banyan trees and of prehistoric remains called "Latda." These are upright stones
in the form of rough truncated pyramids, arranged in two
rows, and were very probably used as supports for a roof or
covering of some kind, or possibly they were sepulchral mon



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REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.


11


uments of ancient rulers. There are many of them upon the
island of Guam.
Anona reticulata, "Cutstard apple " or "Bullock's heart."
Flower like yellow hollyhock, which belongs to same family
(il[alcaveve). Fruit is sweet and mealy; is not so good as the
Soursop (Anona muricata).
Ji'biisctts tiTiaceus. Its tough bark is very extensively used
in Guam for making ropes and strings. The ropes are of
splendid quality and do not readily rot in water. Polynesian
name, " Hau " or " Fau. "
Discorca of several species. Yams, some with enormous
tubers, are cultivated; others grow wild, forming impenetrable thickets, with their thorny stocks matting together the
Lemoncita and other bushes.
Birdsnest fern (Asplenium nidas), called "Galak" by the
natives. Growing upon the branches and trunks of trees,
and associated with other species of ferns, Davallias polypodiums, and other Epiphytes.
Bilinmbini (Averrhoa bimnbi).  A fruit with a pentagonal
starlike cross section and a flavor somewhat like an apple.
Abaca, which yields Manila hemp, was introduced by Filipino prisoners, and is thriving in Guam. The natives do not
utilize it, because they do not know how to prepare it.
An.ota sq'tamosa, called by natives "Apis."  Sugar apple,
superior to Alnona ritcudata, or Custard apple.
CYanaga oderata(, called Ylang-Ylang, has established itself
in the islands, its fruits being eaten by the fruit (loves and
pigeons, who scatter the seeds. Its flowers are very fragrant
and yield the celebrated perfume bearing its name.
Cycas. circinalis, Chamnorro name, Faden; Filipino name,
Federico. Intermediate between palm and fern. Interesting
as forming fossil of Carboniferous period that is found in coal
formations throughout the world. The fruit of the sycas is
not generally used elsewhere, but it has been used by the
Chamorros from the earliest times as a staple food. The fruit
is soaked in water, which is then drawn off. This water is so
poisonous that chickens drinking it die. The fruit is then
dried and put aside and stored. From this a powder is ground,
from which are baked wholesome cakes.
Maringa, the Horse-radish tree. Used for horse-radish in
the West Indies.




12


REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.


Oranges, lemons, limes, citrons, and shaddock are abundant.
Wild oranges and bergamot are also abundant and are used
for washing the hair and clothing.
Pineapples of good quality, mangoes, cashew (Anacardium,
occidentali), rice, corn, sugarcane, but not extensive for lack
of labor; coffee good, not much cultivated, same reason.
Farinaceous foods. -Arrowroot (Tacca pennatifida), called
Polynesian ary-root; Mantioca, fruit of the Cycas circinalis;
turmuric (yields curry), arnotto, ginger, capsicum (various
kinds), red peppers; betel nuts and betel peppers are planted
by natives, the first a product of a palm tree, a species of
Areca, the second a vine (Piper betel), leaves of which are
wrapped around a piece of the betel nut, and with the addition of a little lime, chewed by the natives,
The eggplant is cultivated in gardens.
The following trees should also be mentioned:
The mangrove is a tree that grows in shallow water, following the coral reefs out into the ocean, and thus building new
land.
Iferitiera litoralis grows near the water's edge, has a whitish leaf. Native name  ufa. "
Casutarina eq'tuisitifolia has foliage like a horse's tail.
Common name, '"ironwood."
Thesp&isia populnea. Native name, "kilulu.'?
ITernandia sonora. Native name, nonak."
The two trees last named furnish wood of a most excellent
quality for boat building.
The cotton tree is found in abundance, and the tree cotton
is used for pillows, as in the Philippihes, but the staple is of
poor quality and is not used in Guam or in the Philippines
for making cloth. Vine cotton was introduced into Guam by
one of the old governors and is now in a few places growing
wild, but it is not cultivated nor is it used for purposes of
industry.
BIRDS.
Among the birds found on the island may be mentioned the
following:
Asi accipitrimus (owl momo). Not common. Eats lizards.
Ilalcyon cinnamanea (kingfisher). Very common. Blue,
with tawny head. Called " sihig." Does not catch fish, but
eats insects.




REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.


13


Collocalia fachphaga (an edible swift). Very common.
Called "jajaguag." These are the birds which make edible
nests, but these nests are not eaten in Guam.
Rhipidura uiraniw (pretty fan-tail flycatcher). Common in
thickets.  Called " chichirika." Its tail, which opens like a
fan, is black, with a white margin. It has a chestnut-colored
back, white horizontal marks on each side of its beak, and
black throat. It has a pretty whistling note.
iMyiagray freycineti (small flycatcher). Called "chiguahgan." Common in thickets. Upper parts gray, under surface white, sometimes tinged with chestnut on the breast.
When excited a tuft of feathers arises crest-like upon the head.
flyzomela rubtrtra. A beautiful little scarlet honey eater,
with black wings and a long, slender, curved beak. Called,
by Chamorros. "eguigy."    Very common.    Sucks honey
from flowers; especially fond of the scarlet hibiscus.
Apllonis Xttlitzi.  A starling called "sali," resembling
somewhat a thrush; the male jet black, the female with
streaked breast. It has a note like the American robin's rain
song. It is very fond of fruit, especially of the ylang-ylang,
which it has pretty well spread over the island.
Corvus kuba7r/yi. A real crow, called "aga" by natives,
with a cawing note similar to that of our own common species. Very destructive in cornfields.
titilinopas roseicapillus. A rosy-capped, green-feathered
fruit dove, called "totot" by the natives.
Turtur dussumieri. The Philippine turtle dove, called by
the natives "paloma halumtano," or dove of the forest.
Phlegoenas xanthonura. A   handsome chocolate-colored
pigeon with white head. There are several rail-like birds inhabiting rice fields and swamps, including a gallinule, a coot,
and a gray rail. On the shores are sacred herons, called " chuchuka," the Chinese least bittern, called "'kakak," two handsome curlews, called "kalalan," golden plovers, snipe, sandpeckers, turnstones, and a wild duck like a mallard, Anas
oustaleti, a species found nowhere else in the world than in
this group of islands, called by the natives "nganga palau."
Among the sea birds there are the pretty white turn (Gygys
alba), the common noddy, the white-capped noddy, the tropic
bird, the booby, the man-of-war bird, and shearwaters.




14


REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.


MAMMALS.
Flying foxes are numerous. They fly in full daylight, flapping their wings slowly like a crow. They are eaten generally
and are one of the usual staples of food. They belong to the
genus Pteropus, which is widely distributed over India, Ceylon,
the Malay Archipelago, and the islands of the Pacific. Besides this and a species of smaller bat, the only mammals are
deer, goats, cows, pigs, rats, and mice, all introduced.
REPTILES.
There are no snakes.
There is a large lizard which is common and is a great pest,
robbing nests and eating young birds and young chickens.
It has a black skin, thickly speckled with a lemon yellow, and
is about a meter in length. The smaller lizards are a gecko
with padded toes, commonly seen running along the walls and
ceilings of habitations, catching flies and other insects, and in
the woods a beautiful little species of metallic luster, having
several longitudinal bronze stripes down its back, and a brilliant tail of cobalt blue.
INSECTS.
Centipedes and wasps are common, both in doors and out.
There is also a small scorpion. The stings of none of these
are dangerous. Spiders are common; some are very large,
but none are dangerous. There are no tarantulas.
FISHES.
There are a number of fishes and articulates in the freshwater ponds and streams. These are probably peculiar to the
island. The beautiful bright-colored fishes of the reefs and
lagoons are probably of wide distribution in tropical waters.
The land crab and land and fresh-water mollusks will probably be of interest to the student of natural history.
THE COPRA INDUSTRY.
The only industry of any consequence in the island of Guam
is the production and exportation of copra, or dried cocoanut.
The price received by natives for copra from traders buying
it on the island ranges from $3 to $4, Mexican, per hundred




I




A jUHNGLE ROAD  -REE COVERED 'AiiTfH, -PRN PARASJTES








'-U
V




REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.


1 5


weight. These merchants receive about double the above price
for the product in Japan.
In England copra sells for $75 per ton, gold.
THE WILT) YAM.
The wild yam, a kind of potato, is found in great abundance.
It is a rather coarse food, but in case of the failure of crops
or the destruction of cocoanuts by hurricanes the yam would
answer very well, together with fish and other meat supplies,
to give sufficient nourishment for all the inhabitants.
ROADS.
There is a very good road between the landing at Piti on to
Agana and for 2 miles beyond along the coast to the northwest. The road is also very good from Apra through Agat
and for a few miles beyond; farther on the road circles along
the beach, but sometimes going around a spur of solid rock
that extends to the water's edge, so that the road is covered
with water a few inches in depth. At other points it passes
over spurs which extend to the water's edge, thus making
very precipitous ascents and descents, so that the road can
hardly be called passable for vehicles of any kind.
At iUmata is a harbor where the Spanish galleons rode at
anchor and where the sailors came for water. The commercial importance of this place was so great that for very many
years a palace for the governor was maintained and used by
him for a residence during the times the ships from Spain
frequented the place. The palace and also the church at
Umata were destroyed by an earthquake in the year 1849.
In front of the church now standing at Umata is a stone slab
which bears the following inscription:
Por efecto de un grande havydo en 23 de Enero de 1849 quedo destrozado
este Yglesya y se reedyfico en el mysmo govor el Sor Don Pablo Perez.
(This church was destroyed the 23d day of January, 1849, by a great
earthquake, and was rebuilt the same year, Don Pablo Perez being the
governor at the time.)
The palace was not rebuilt.
To the north of Umata along the east side of the island the
roads are only paths.
The road across the island from Agano to Pago is fairly
good. Many years ago a Spanish governor constructed this




16        REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.
road, and halfway across the island, at the side of the road,
there still stands a cross bearing the following inscription:
Se compuso este camino desde Agana a Pago para parsar carretas por
primera ves en 1853 por direccion del gobernador, Don Pablo Perez.
(This road from Agana to Pago, for the passage of vehicles, was constructed in the year 1833, under direction of the governor, Don Pablo
Perez.)
This road, however, has for many years been out of repair.
The road from Ynarajan to Apra, diagonally across the
island, is only a path, and where it approaches the rivers it
has been cut down by use until it is so narrow that a large
horse could not pass through it. The embankments forming
the sides of these approaches, sometimes of earth and at other
places of soft stone, are at places as high as a horse's head.
All the roads except the one from Piti through Agana
become very bad in the wet season, but as all the towns are
on the coast communication by sea is always availahle.
CITIES AND TOWNS.
We found the towns very neat, indeed. In Agana probably half of the houses are built of stone; the other houses
are of nipa and bamboo, very much like the houses in Luzon.
Agat and Samai have a very few stone houses, but in Umata,
Merizo, and Ynarajan, the best houses are of wood and the
rest of bamboo.
THE PEOPLE.
The people are very cordial and friendly. At every town
we entered we were met by the leading men of the place, at
two places.with United States flags flying. White flags were
upon many of the houses, bells were rung, and other efforts
were made by the natives to manifest regard for the Americans. I saw a few people who I was informed were pure
Chamorros, and they impressed me very favorably. Their
features were regular, their forms erect, and they were in all
respects fine physical specimens. The people seemed very
desirous of establishing the kindest relations with the Americans, and their conduct impressed me with the idea that they
hoped for and expected great advantages to come to the island
from American rule.
There is very little money on the island. Wages are very
low. The teacher at Umata had a nice school of little chil



OUR HOST AND HIS FAMILY AT HUS RANCH NEAR SANTA ROSA PEAK_ BrlEAF.-FRUtT TREE IN BACKGROUND,












r 1. 1..
I~. ~~:r~
~; 
~~;"
i; I
-: *-"k,
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~*;6 1
ili
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s~rf ;H~:~~ll;icr i;, A*l.~.~1~-, i:T f —:




RE)POR'T ON THE ISLANDI 01 (lITAM.


1 7


d(roi and his paiy was only 3 peos(), eu1al t()o:bout $ 1.5 ( gold(,
per month. I understand that thie pay has 'bee', or is lab(ult
to be, increased to $6, Mexican, per mnonth.
THE CAROLINE ISLAND)ERS.
A slholt distance north of Agtana is the settleme'nt of flroml
75) to 10() C(aroline Islanders. rhey pireserve the native cus-t
tomls and methods of dress and have quite thle lappear-ance
of American -Indians. They are industrious land )peaceabl(:e.
They were brought to the island(l for emlployllent as f.arm
laborers, but nowv they seemt to all hax:v their own hloumses;,I
moree properly, huts, and thley makte a li-ving by cu(ltivating
cocoanults and small patches of o'gound and )!' ('b t cat('iing ish.
Their civilization is very farl behindl that of the other inhablitants. They have no floors to their dwellilng's;, n(l resent: a
very untidy appe.arance )both personally and in their hablitations.
GUA M.
(uani, also spelled by some voyagers and explorers (Gwanl,
(luajan, and (u:aha, is the iuost southerly of this chain of
islands (the NMarianas).  They extend in a northerly l andl
southerly direction betw(een latitudes 13' -' 12' no()th and 2()0
32' north a (listance of Labout 420 m()iles, and are all volcaic.
They were dliscovelred Ma(rch 6, 1521, by Maaltllanles, hut he,
only saw the isles of Aguigan, Saypan, and Ti'nian. 'The
first named Aguigan, is uninh-abited( and (' colltains 5 sa 11al:'(r
miles.
Tinian, sep-arated from Aguigan by ai channel 5 miles il
width, is 10 mil:s from north to south and 4 mliles f rom ea;st
to west. In 1876 its population was 200. Sayp)an, also
spelled Seypan -and Saipan, is very close to Tinian.  It is 14
miiles long, lan(l like Tinian, is very fertile. It was o(nce
populous, lbu)t in 1876; its population, mostly centere(l in the
town of GtarapaL, (on the east (coast, wvas a:t)olt ()().
lThese islands, being near the route taken by tll Sp:anish
ships from Acaiputlco to Manila and ()o their return v(oytage
were found to be valuable to Spain, and tlhe group was
finally, in 1565, taken by ILgaspi in the iame of tlhe Spanishl
Crown. They were usedl as a stopping place to )l-ocul're water
and fresh provisionis.
24886- 2




18


REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.


THE DONATION OF MARIA OF AUSTRIA.
In 1668 Maria Ana, of Austria, widow of Philip IV of
Spain, donated a large sum of money for the education of
the inhabitants of these islands, and the name of the Mariana
Islands was given to them.
The principal mission was established at Guam, and my
information was that the fund was deposited in Manila and
that the Government of Spain was recognized as the trustee
of the fund, but since the overthrow of Spanish power at
Manila in May, 1898, parties who are interested in the proper
use of this donation have not been able to learn in whose custody the fund was then placed.
I respectfully recommend that inquiry be made of the
Spanish Government with a view of having the fund restored
to the use as directed by the donor.
When about leaving Manila I met Col. Cristobal de Aguilar,
an officer of the general staff of the Spanish army.  He had
been sent by the Spanish Government to gather up property
in the islands which the treaty of Paris recognized as still
belonging to Spain. He had recently reached Manila from
Guam, where he had spent some time in performing his duty.
He was very courteous and gave me much information regarding the island.
With regard to this fund he said:
There is at Agana a school founded by Queen Maria Ana, of Austria, for
the education of the native children of the Mariana Archipelago. The
school is called " Colegio de San Juan de Letran." The endowment consists of a rental of 3,000 pesos a year, produced by a capital of 80,000 pesos,
which is here in Manila, managed by the authorities of charitable institutions. The King of Spain is the trustee of the institution, and is represented by the governor of the Marianas. I can not say, now that our sovereignty there is lost and the archipelago is divided between you and the
Germans, whether the endowment will revert to the Crown of Spain, or
whether it will be divided between you and the Germans, or whether it
will remain intact.
If it should be determined to divide the fund between the
dependencies of the two countries, viz, the United States and
Germany, it would no doubt be prorated according to population, which would continue the bulk of the income to the
support of the college at Agana in the island of Guam.




REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.


19


In 1668 the Spaniards founded the Catholic mission at Guam
under the direction of Padre de Sanvitores. The influence of
the Christian mission was soon extended over the other inhabited islands, and many of the natives became members of the
Catholic Church.
WAR AND PESTILENCE REDUCED POPULATION.
The mutual good understanding, however, did not last long
between the missionaries and the natives, who, after some
months had elapsed, began to revolt against theni. They attacked the fort and killed several of the Spaniards, but European discipline and firearms prevailed, and they were obliged
to yield. The war of extemmination and the emigration to
other islands so reduced the population of Guam that when
Dampier camne hither, in 1688-that is, twenty years after
the arrival of Padre Sanvitores-he found very few inhabitants.
The exercise of authority by Spanish officials was met with
more or less resistance until 1695, when quiet was at last
restored, but the devastation caused by the revolt and deaths
resulting from an epidemic which prevailed in many of the
islands made a fearful work of devastation on nearly all of
them, and Anson states that when he visited the island of
Tinian he found it entirely deserted by human beings, and
only inhabited by wild hogs and cattle.
LEGENDS AS TO POPULATION. 
Most extravagant legends exist as to the former density of
the population of this and other islands.  Some Spanish
writers assert that the population of the island of Guam
alone at one time was as much as 30,000.
The reports of Padre Sanvitores have been quoted to sustain these large estimates. He says that during the first year
of his labors he baptized 13,000 people and converted 20,000,
but these statements, like the others to which allusion has
been made, are certainly very much overrated.
From the statistics gathered by Commander Sanchez y
Zayas there were 4,060 inhabitants in 1800, which number
increased to 5,406 in 1818; to 8,609 in 1849, and to 9,500 in




20


REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.


1856. But in the last-named year smallpox broke out in the
archipelago and in the course of that year carried off half the
people, reducing the number to 4,556 souls. In 1865 the
poulation was reckoned at 5,610, of which 4,824 were on Guam,
335 on Rota, 18 on Tinian, and 435 on Saypan, the other
islands being uninhabited. The present estimate of 9,000 may
be taken as an approximately correct statement of the population of Guam.
While under Spanish rule the entire group was under the
control of the military governor, residing at Agana or Umata.
The indigenous race called Charmorros very much resemble
the Tagals and Visayos, but some writers contend that they
are perhaps more indolent-a fault compensated for by good
qualities, of which sobriety and unselfishness may claim notice.
The Caroline islanders, who have been imported, are naturally inoffensive, and can not be said to be indolent.
PREHISTORIC MONUMENTS.
The primitive inhabitants of the archipelago have left some
memorials of their talent behind them, like those of the monuments of Easter Island at the opposite extreme of the Pacific
Islands. In Tinian their structures are said to be remarkable.
They are described in Lord Anson's Voyage, where a view is
given of one, and they are mentioned by other and later visitors. Lieutenant Mortimer says they consisted, in the state
he saw them, of two ranges of columns, either of stone or
composition, and of a pyramidal form, 5 feet 4 inches broad
at the base and 14 feet high, having large semiglobes, 5 feet
10 inches in diameter, placed on the tops, with their flat surface upward.
These singular structures, which are not all exactly alike,
are supposed by Freycinet to be the supports of a wooden
ceiling, to which the roofs of the principal houses were
affixed. But this opinion is not participated in by other
authors, and a further examination points to the inference
that they are sepulchral monuments of the former inhabitants. There are numerous similar remains on the other
islands, especially at Asan, near Agana, in Guam, but here
they are small and constructed of stone. I examined these
structures which are located near Asan. They did not impress




REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.


21


me as being at all remarkable. They were less than onethird of the height of the monuments described by Lieutenant Mortimer.
CLIMATE.
It rains very heavily in the Marianas, and it may be
affirmed that there are no dry and rainy seasons. It rains
nearly every day. The enormous evaporation of the Pacific
is condensed in passing over the islands, so that, with winds
from every quarter, rain is abundant at all periods of the
year. The Nacrvaez, commanded by Commander D. E. Sanchez, was at Guam in December, 1864, the period of the socalled dry season, but rain was abundant every day, and the
natives were surprised at the weather being considered as wet.
I was on the island three entire days and parts of two days
at the period of the year called the dry season. During two
of them, February 7 and February 10, there were several very
heavy rains and numerous gentle showers, each lasting from
fifteen to thirty minutes. One day-the 7th-we had only a
few gentle showers, but no heavy rains, and during two daysthe 6th and 9th-there was no rain at all in the parts of the
island where we were then journeying.
The temperature is mild and much cooler than that of the
Philippines, but the inhabitants declared that the heat in
August and September was almost suffocating. This must
arise from the interruption of the northeast trade wind, which
blows throughout the year with the exception of these two
months, during which the effects of the southwest monsoon
apparently reach to the Marianas. At this time there is generally a dead calm, for the monsoon itself has not sufficient
force to reach the archipelago. It is therefore the season of
intense heat, rain, and storms, and frequently of terrible hurricanes.
Admiral Krusenstern makes the following observations on
this subject:
The Marianas lie in the region of the north tropic, and consequently in
that of the northeast trade winds. But this is not the prevalent wind.
The northeast and southwest monsoons, which are met with in the China
Sea, on the coasts of China, and near the Philippine Islands, extend as far
as the Marianas, and sometimes even beyond them; so that the limits
between the monsoons and the trade winds must be found somewhere
near this archipelago.




REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.


CURRENTS.
Currents generally following the directions of the winds, it
is probable that it is also the case near the Marianas. But
Captain Golownin met with a rapid current bearing to the
northeast, although the wind blew from that quarter; and a
Spanish officer affirms that a similar current generally flows
in this part; but this phenomenon may proceed froIm some
local source, and is but an exception and does not affect the
general rule.
From recent observations it is stated that the currents in
the Mariana Archipelago set to the southwest at the rate of
about three-fourths of a mile an hour during nine months of
the year, and to the northeast during the three remaining
months.
Between the islands of Tinian and Aguijan a violent current was remarked in the Centurian, the direction of which
was  alternately south-southeast, north-northwest.  This
would prove the existence of regular tides. The flood which
bore to the north-northwest was more rapid than the ebb,
and lasted longer. Pasco-Thomas also remarked that during the Syzygies the flood was 2 feet less than at the quadrature, which is contrary to what usually occurs. The greatest
rise of water was 8 feet; with southwest winds the flood rose
higher than with other winds. From later observations the
tides are found to be insignificant, the greatest rise not
exceeding 3 feet.
When the horizon was overcast to the southwest, northwest, and west with a black mass, not high, the sea began to
break on the inner banks of Luis Harbor. It also occurred
that, notwithstanding the continuance of the easterly winds,
the southwest and westerly swell rendered the narrow passages between these reefs impracticable.  Freycinet states
that during his stay storms accompanied by rain were very
frequent, but of short duration. Thunder was never heard.
The monsoons are felt at the Marianas; that from the west
takes place from the middle of June to the middle of October.
The wind, however, only blows violently for three months of
the year. Hurricanes are comparatively rare; earthquakes,
on the contrary, are tolerably frequent. Of the first-mentioned scourge there had not been one for seven years.




REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.


23


From  1850 to 1875 fifteen typhoons or hurricanes were
experienced at Guam, eight of them occurring in the month of
November, two in February, three in April, and one in June
and September.
According to Don Luis de Torres the months from July to
November are the season of bad weather, storms, thunder,
and rain; and in December, January, and February the
weather is variable. March, April, May, and June are the
finest; the breeze then comes from east and northeast. The
months when the winds blow strongest are August, September, October, and November; they blow at these periods
from northwest to southwest by west, and sometimes from
south and southeast, but in general rather between north and
west and from north itself.
Observations on the winds, etc., by Lieutenant Camargo,
1873: The winds in these islands follow the general law of
the northeast trade wind. They are sometimes modified by
the monsoons of the China Sea, on the limit of which they lie.
The southwest monsoon is only light, but the northeast is
fresher and blows longer. It lasts from the middle of October to the end of June, which is the finest season. During
July and August it blows from the southwest; it has less
strength, but is accompanied by strong squalls and heavy
rains. It rains sometimes during the northeast monsoon, but
it never lasts longer than three days. The northeast monsoon is strongest during December and January; at the end
of February it becomes feeble, turns to east and even, though
rarely, to east-southeast; it freshens in the latter half of
March and blows moderately. After this it dies away gradually till July, when the southwest monsoon sets in.
Hurricanes follow here the same laws as in the China Sea.
Their influence is rarely felt at the change of the monsoon
from northeast to southwest, but at this period there are
strong breezes or nortades. Hurricanes are only felt in September and October, at the change of the northeast monsoon,
when the northern islands of the archipelago are often devastated.
The currents are modified by those of the China Sea, running to the southwest for nine months and to the northeast
for the other three months following the monsoons, the southwest setting about three quarters of a mile an hour.




REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.;i,~ ~        THE (EDED ISLAND.
Guam, Guajan, or Guahan is the southernmost and is the
principal of the Marianas, inasmuch as it is the largest of
them and has nearly all the population.
It is the only one inhabited to any extent, the population
in 1873 amounting to about 7,000, but at the present time is
fully 9,000.
1 attach as Exhibit "A" a map of the island of Guam. It
is shaped something like the sole of a shoe. It is 29 miles in
length, northeast by north, and is southwest by south, and of
irregular breadth, 10 miles where widest, narrowing in its
center to but little more than 3 miles. Except on the northeast side, where there is no landing, it is bordered throughout
the greater part of its circuit with a chain of reefs, which are
uncovered at times.  Dampier thus describes the island:
At a distance it appears flat and uneven, but coming near it you will
find that it stands shelving, and the east side, which is much the highest,
is fenced with steep rocks that oppose the violence of the sea, which continially rages against it, being driven by the constant trade wind, and on that
side-there is no anchoring, except for small boats. The west side is pretty
low. and full of small sandy bays, divided with as many rocky points. The
soil of the island is reddish, dry, and indifferently fruitful. The fruits are
chiefly rice, pineapples, watermelons, muskmelons, oranges, and bread
fruit. The cocoanut tree grows by the sea on the west side in great groves,
3 of 4 miles in length and 1 or 2 miles broad.
The north side of the island is rather low, the small hills of
Santa Rosa, about 650 feet high, being the only elevations. I
was guided to the top of this elevation by a very courteous
native, Don Gregorio Peres, who owned a well-cultivated
ranch in its vicinity.  From this peak the ocean to the north
and the table and rolling lands to the south were in full view.
The southern part of the island is more mountainous,
Mount Tiniquio forming several peaks of no great elevation.
Point Ajayan, the southeast extremity of Guam, is in latitude 130 14' north, longitude 144~ 44' east. To the west of
it is Ajayan (Ahayan) Bay, which is singularly obstructed by
reefs. The south end of Guam is an uninterrupted sandy
beach, fronted by reefs, having two or three small islands on
it.' Cocus Island, formerly called Daneono, and near it Bali
island, lie 2j miles from the southwest point of Guam. It is
a mile long, low and barren, with some trees, among which




REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.


is a single cocoanut tree which gives it its name. It is surrounded by reefs which, extending to the northward, form
between it and the actual southwest point of Guam the small
boat harbor of Merizo. The whole of this part of Guam
should he cautiously approached.
UNSURVEYED SHOALS.
Shoals called Santa Rosa Shoals are said to lie to the southsouthwest of Guam, and although their existence is questioned by some navigators, including Admiral Krusenstern,
I think the locality should be carefully surveyed. Those
who report having passed over the locality were upon vessels
of very light draft, which could pass safely over shoals or
reefs that would be fatal to the large ships which now traverse
these waters.
Dampier reports seeing shoals in 1686. He says:
We sailed over a rocky shoal, on which there was but 4 fathoms of water
and an abundance of fish swimming about the rocks.
A Spanish galleon arrived from Acapulco while Dampier
lay at (Guam, but avoiding Dampier's ships, sailed to the
southward and struck on this shoal, knocking off her rudder,
and not getting clear till after three days' hard labor. It must
be a considerable distance off, for after some hours' sail they
sighted Guam 8 leagues distant. On Cantova's chart it is
made 20 leagues in extent, east-northeast and west-southwest,
and about half as broad. Its position may be about latitude
12~ 30' north, longitude 144~ 15' east.
On Mr. Dalrymple's chart a bank, discovered in 1740 by
Galdez, is made to be 20 miles to the southwest of Guam in
latitude 13~, but this has not since been found. An American
vessel, among others, passed over the site in 1804 without
finding the bottom. This may be the same as that mentioned
by Dampier, but some navigators think it is probably not of
the extent delineated by Cantova.
In 1873 it was stated that in this, the southwest part of
Guam, the people were much afflicted with leprosy, but this
affliction seems now to be much less than formerly. When
the Spaniards left there were six lepers in the leper hospital
at Asan; all but one of these were allowed to leave, and are
supposed to be scattered over the island. I saw one man at




26      REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.


Merizo who had the appearance of a leper, and at Pago I met
a man who was pronounced a leper.
The people do not seem to dread the disease, and many
contend that it is not communicated to well persons by ordinary daily association.
The town of Merizo, about 1 miles southward of Umata
Bay, at that time, 1873, it is said, contained only 22 houses
and 146 lazy and dirty inhabitants, the only house that was
habitable being that of the padre.
When I visited this place, February 9, 1900, the condition
was very much improved. The streets, houses, and people
all had a very neat and tidy appearance. The people came
out to meet us before we reached the place. They had a large
United States flag, fired guns and rang bells of welcome, and
displayed white flags upon all their houses. They were very
courteous, and entertained our party, consisting of Lieutenant
Safford, Mr. Garrett, and myself with a very good dinner.
The town now has about 300 people.
Umata Bay, 4 miles northward of Cocus Island, is about
one-third of a mile deep east and west, its entrance being 3
cables wide.  It is perfectly sheltered between north and
south and by the east, but in the season of westerly winds,
or from June to September, it is imprudent or perhaps
impossible to remain here on account of the heavy seas
sent in.
The south coast of the bay is mountainous from Cape Chalan Aniti to its head, where is the river Umata or Saloupa,
the usual watering place. The north coast of the bay, where
the town stands, is low. The church, built at the foot of the
mountain, fronts the eastern part of the bay. A small rivulet, the Sabo, flows between the church and the governor's
house. Behind the town the hills rise in an amphitheater, and
are neither high nor remarkable. On the south side of the
bay, on the contrary, Inago Mount, opposite the ruins of the
governor's house, is remarkable; and farther west is another
of 120 or 130 feet high, on the summit of which is the Fort
Nuestra Sefiora de la Soledad. Between these two hills flows
a rivulet of excellent water, called the Chioreto.
Umata was destroyed by an earthquake on January 25,
1849, as shown by stone inscriptions on the ruins of the governor's house and the church, and in 1875 it was found to be




REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.


27


a wretched place, with only 157 inhabitants. Although the
fortifications still look imposing on paper, they have not a
single gun. Umata has changed very much for the better
since 1875. The people met me at some distance from the
town. As I approached they fired guns, rang bells, and made
all possible display of welcome and good feeling toward
our Government. They insisted upon our partaking of an
entertainment which they had prepared, and in many ways
exhibited a desire to receive us with cordiality. The school
children, with their bright, intelligent faces, the girls with
neat dresses and the boys with equally neat clothing, were
brought out in a body and presented to us.
Here, as in other towns, everything had a clean and cheerful appearance. The town now has about 200 people. I
regretted I could not take time to climb the hill and examine
old "Fuerte Nuestra Sefora de la Soledad." Its appearance
on the hill overlooking the bay indicated that in olden times
it was a fortress well up to the period when it was constructed
and when it had guns and soldiers to defend it. The other
forts were much less pretentious.
Point Pougouene, the south entrance point of Umata Bay,
is low, pointed, and guarded by a narrow chain of reefs,
extending nearly a cable west of it. On the north point of
the bay is an isolated and picturesque rock, on which point
St. Angel is built, approached by steps cut in rock. About
a cable north of it is another, Fort San Jose. A ruined battery at the bottom of the bay, opposite the church, is Nuestra
Sefora del Carmen. Fort San Jose and Nuestr-a de la Soledad
are plainly discernible by their whiteness.
The anchorage is 7t fathoms, sand and shells, with Fort St.
Angel bearing NE. by N. i N. and Fort Nuestra Sefiora de
la Soledad SE. by E. J E., in the mouth of the bay.
From Umata Bay the coast trends NW. by N. i N., 3 miles
to Point Facpi, in latitude 13~ 19' 50" north, longitude 144~
37" east, forming several sinuosities in the space, the deepest
of which is Cetti Bay, as large as that of Umata. Point
Facpi is remarkable for being pointed, projecting, and
terminating in isolated rock, joined to the shore by a breaking reef, uncovered at low water; thence to Point Orote, the
west point of the peninsula of the same name, the coast presents a bay of 6 miles opening and 2 miles in extent, in which




28


REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.


are several coves and islets. The town of Agat is at the head
of this bay, and off it there is good anchorage in northeast
winds, but the landing is difficult on account of the reefs.
The land is quite fertile, and the general appearance is
pleasing.
Agat is now one of the most important places next to
Agana. In 1876 it contained only 36 native houses, a poor
church, and a stone house for the padre.
When I approached the town every possible expression of
welcome to Americans was manifested. Their one little cannon saluted, small arms were fired, and the bells were rung.
The padre was absent, but his commodious house was occupied by a Spaniard, who, with the leading men of the place,
gave us a very nice luncheon. The streets, houses, and people
all presented a very clean appearance. To the southwest of
Agat, 2 miles distant, is Aloupan, or Alutung Island, at the
west extremity of a reef, stretching two-thirds of a mile off
Point Baugne. From Agat to Orote Point the distance is 3+
miles to northwest. The southwest face of the Orote Peninsula is formed by a cliff. The whole of this peninsula is
madreporic, and can not be traversed on account of the prodigious number of rocks and precipices which cover it.
TIE 1HARBOR-PORT SAN LUIS I)'APRA.
From Point Orote, near which is a small island, the coast
trends first east by south, then southeast by south, to the village
of Apra, built on the isthmus, with a rude landing place;
thence it turns to the east and north, thus forming a large
indentation, nearly in the shape of a V, the opening of which
is nearly closed by a long, narrow coral island named Cabras,
or Apapa, and numerous reefs.
The bay is very extensive and safe, but has a great many
banks, coral rocks, and islets, especially in the southeast part.
The entrance is contracted by the continuation of Cabras
Island in the form of a line of reefs, the Luminan Reefs, and
the Pirado or Catalan Banks, which come within about onethird of a mile of Orote Island, leaving a deep channel, the
usual entrance. In 1873 the entrance was stated to be only
2 cables wide, Catalan Bank having extended to the southward.
The distance between Apapa and Cape Orote is 2j miles in
a west-southwest direction, but Luminan Reefs, extending 1i




REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.


miles westward of Apapa Island, contract the passage to onehalf the width, which, besides this, is made still more difficult
by Catalan Bank, lying precisely in the middle of the passage.
But as there is a good passage on either side of this shoal
half a mile in width, this entrance would be scarcely dangerous if care be taken to mark its two extremities with buoys
or flags. The depth in the passage to the northeast of the
bank being not more than 5~ fathoms, coral bottom, Captain
Kotzebue advises ships to pass by the channel southwest of
the bank and to keep as close as possible to the Orote side,
where the depth of water is sufficient for the largest ships.
After passing beyond the bank a basin is entered, where
anchorage may be taken if circumstances demand it; but as
the water in it is of a very great depth and the bottom is bad,
it would be better, if the winds and tides allow, to keep on
the course to the inner part of the harbor, where you may
enter at the distance of a quarter of a mile off the small island
of Santa Cruz in 15 fathoms.
The Warren entered the harbor by running quite close to
Orote Point. This entrance is narrow, but is much the best
and safest. The Yosemnite was lying at anchor when we
entered. The Solace came on the 7th and the Brutus on the
9th, so that at one time four large ships were together in the
harbor. To these was added a small trading schooner, which
gave the place quite a business appearance. The officers of
the Yosemite had just completed a survey of the harbor, the
notes of which are on the way to Washington. I was not
able to learn what was recommended by thelm, but from such
examination of the harbor as I could make, aided by old
charts, it is very clear that the harbor can be easily much
improved. A railroad can be run across the shallow water
which separates the island of Cabras from the mainland, then
along the island to a point to be selected, and from that point
a pier or mole can be run out to deep water, so as to deliver
coal to ships. This mole or pier could be cheaply constructed
of stone.
At the period of Kotzebue's visit in 1817 there was a battery of three 6-pounders on this island. The battery has long
since been removed. In the summer of 1898, when our naval
ship, the Charleston, commanded by Captain Glass, was ordered
to take possession of the isle of Guam fire was opened upon




REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.


this fort, which, of course, made no reply. The Spanish governor at Agana heard the firing and supposed he was honored
by a salute from a naval ship of a friendly nation, and he
hastened to send an officer to express his acknowledgment and
regrets that he had no gun with which he could return the
compliment.
In the center of the basin is a rock, level with the water, on
which stands Fort Santa Cruz, in latitude 13~ 25' 45" north,
longitude 144~ 39' 45" east. The usual anchorage is about 2
cables to the north of this in a basin of 4 to 15 fathoms, mud,
surrounded by coral patches 2 or 3 feet beneath the surface.
The channels leading to it are frequently narrow, the last
before entering being not more than 125 yards wide. The
edges or sides of the patches are very steep, and they may be
approached almost to touching. The best anchorage is in 22
fathoms, coral sand, with the west end of Cabras Island bearing northeast and Fort Santa Cruz SE. i S. The tide rises
from 3 to 41 feet. Outside the harbor the current sets constantly to the westward.
Landing is very inconvenient, the shore being everywhere
fringed with coral reefs. The best landing, if wishing to proceed to Agana, is at Ponto Piti, opposite Cabras Island, about
1j miles from the anchorage. There is a small pier.
From the entrance of the port to the island of Santa Cruz
the distance is 2 miles. It would perhaps be dangerous to
attempt to beat in and out against a contrary wind, as the
reports say was done by Kotzebue. It would probably be
more prudent to wait for the west wind, which springs up
every morning at daybreak, and to tow through the narrowest
part of the passage. A small river falls into the harbor at
three-fourths of a mile eastward of Santa Cruz Island, and
this is the watering place; but the boats ought to be sent at
hi(rgh tide, because at other times it would be difficult to reach
the mouth of the river. The casks are filled at low water, and
the boats are compelled to wait for high water to get off
again. At Sumaye, westward of Santa Cruz Island, some
beef, fowls, eggs, and vegetables may be obtained.
Under Spanish rule the port dues amounted from 50 cents
on Spanish vessels of less than 10 tons to $5.50 on vessels of
750 tons and over. Foreign vessels paid double these rates.
The shores of the bay of Aura were depopulated, and the




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ipj:-i~ ~II~I II ~ i








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A                      -in




REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF OITAM.


31


village of Apnra at the head of the bay of Ajayan, in the
southern part of the island, Tarafofo, on the east coast, and
lic, near it. disappeared during the smallpox epidemic of
1.5.. lThere was only one physician in the whole archipelago,
iand the smanllpox ran its (courlse. and in some places left not a
single survivor.
Soutmylle on the west side of the Ia1ch at Apra HIarbor, is
the place chiefly retorted to by the ves.sels lying here. In
1876 it had 29 decent houwss. It now clainrs:4X) people. It
is due west of Fort SLanta ( Cruz.
From San Luis l)'Apra the cOast runs t o t   the northeast and
then inorth 1 minil es t4o Point AaMhi-; anahi, a perpendicular
rock, near which lies the small island of (apan. The reefs
from Apra Island reach to the latter. At 1I miles from Point
Acahi-Fanahi is Point Adeloup, t tter known to the inhabitants ts Punta del )iathlo on account of the extreme rapidity
of the currents. which make it very difficult to eW doubled.
A sandy beach commences immediately after Point del Diablo,
which trends to the eat of north, forming the bay of Agana,
in the middle of which is the harbor and town of Agana.
Aloupan or Alutung Island forms the northeast extremity of
this bay. It nearly touches Point Apurguan or Aquequan,
and makes apparently a tecure anchorage, but it is too shallow except for small boats.
AGANA, THE CAPITAL.
Agana contains the principal part of the inhabitants of the
Marianas, and bears the lofty title of the city of San Ignacio
de Agana, but it i a small town of about (6,400 inhabitants.
Some years ago the greater part of the houses were but
poor Indian cabins, thatched with cocoanut leaves, and contained but a few stone houses for the better classes. Now
there are many stone houses and others built of substantial
material. The chief buildings are the governor's house, the
arsenal, the basrrac, the church, and the college. The last
was founded in 1678, the first establishment in the archipelago. There was a convict establishment here. The streets
are wide, clean, and regular; a small but clear stream traverses
the city, and it is crossed by two stone bridges, and the appearance of the place, with its rich vegetation, is pleasant.
Women are seen daily washing clothing in the river. The




REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.


bank is almost, if not quite, perpendicular, and a person
standing in the water, close to the bank, is immersed to the
depth of 2j to 3 feet. The women stand in this way, facing
the bank, upon which rests their washboard, and thus wash
working clothes for hours at a time.  Trailing vines and
grass, fresh and green, grow close to the water's edge, making
a picturesque and interesting scene.
A large portion of the half-breed Chamorros are copper
colored, with extremely light hair, a feature which has arisen
from the intercourse with American and English whalers.
Prior to the opening of the Japanese ports they frequently
came here. Their visits are now rare.
The town is built on the seashore, but in the most inconvenient position, and the landings are obstructed by breaking
reefs. There is not even anchorage before it, for the coral
bottom renders a stay impossible, and to put out to sea at
every indication of a storm would be attended by much hazard. The usual and better plan of calling here is for the vessel to proceed to San Luis D'Apra, for which a pilot may be
obtained. There is a good road between Piti; the landing
place, and Agana.
An incident of the dangerous nature of Agana Bay was
afforded by the wreck of the British ship Invincible, January
5, 1856. She came in without a pilot and insisted on.leaving
next day. With some assistance, she got out, but was immediately dashed to pieces on the rocks to the west of the
entrance. The crew were saved with difficulty.
The coast from Apuequan Point to Point Tumun is of steep
rocks, and all the detached points hence to the northward of
the island are absolutely alike. At 21 miles to the northeast
of Point Tumun is Point de los Amantes, Tumun Bay lying
between them. This bay appears to be filled with reefs, but
there are several passages through it, where boats can reach
the shore without difficulty. Near the middle of the bay and
to the south of the village of Gnaton, a cross was erected to
the memory of Padre Sanvitores, the martyr of the Marianas,
who was killed on this point by a native chief while he was
baptizing a child.
From Point de los Amantes to Point Nigo the coast trends
north-northeast. But little of the land has been cultivated
and there are but few inhabitants. Southward of this latter
point is the exposed anchorage of Falcone.




REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GIUAM.


33


Point Ritidian, the northwest point of Guam, is in latitude
130 38' 45" north, longitude 144~ 51' 58" east. A short distance inland the perpendicular hills form, scarcely without
interruption, the circuit of the island on the east side. The
coral reefs trend to the southeast from Point Ritidian to
Point Tagua, forming the shore. From this the land trends
east a mile to Point Patay, the northeast point of the island.
The eastern coast of the island, as far as Tarafofo Harbor,
offers no shelter to the navigator, and ought therefore to be
avoided during the eastern monsoon. The only openings are
Pago Harbor, in latitude 13~ 244", accessible only for boats,
and Ilic Bay, 2 miles to the southward, and equally important.
Port Tarafofo, 41 miles south of Ilic Bay, is the only harbor, next to San Luis, which will receive vessels at all seasons
of the year. There are no rocks in it, nor is there any danger. It is formed of two small, deep bays, the northern of
which, Tarafofo, is open to the east, in which direction it is
half a mile long and about 14 cables wide. The other, on the
south side of the entrance, is smaller, and is called Paicpouc
Cove. Tarafofo River, the most considerable in Guam, enters the head of the bay. Madreporic rocks, very steep,
descend on both sides of the harbor to the water. That of
Mahilouc, on the north side, is celebrated in the history of
the country. A point at the head of the bay, on the south
end of the sandy beach, is in latitude 133 18' 9" north, longitude 144~ 46' 14" east. There is no village in that vicinity.
From Tarafofo to Ulomnia or Hounlodgna Bay, 1f miles
to the southwest, the land is low, with sandy beaches and
rocky points. The bay is only fit for boats. Ynarajan Bay,
a mile farther to the southwest, is a quarter of a mile wide in
the opening and half a mile deep, but reefs fringing the shore
considerably contract the anchorage. It is open from east to
south, and during westerly winds a vessel would be perfectly
safe in it, but the harbor would give but little protection
against winds from the east, and especially from the southeast.
Agfayan Bay, three-fourths of a mile southwest of Ynarajan, is smaller than the latter. It is said to have good
anchorage for vessels of less than 15 feet draft. It is open
to the east-northeast, and at its head is a small brook where
24886 ----3




34


REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.


boats can readily procure water. Agayan Point, the southeast
point of Guam, has been before mentioned.
The village of Ynarajan is on the southwest side of Ynarajan Bay. In 1875 it had 276 inhabitants, a church, and a
house for the priest. At the head of the bay are several
streams. Point Goal, on the north side of the entrance, is in
latitude 13~ 16' 30" north, longitude 144~ 45' 18" east.
At the last census the town had 518 people. It is now supposed to have about 550. Our party spent a night at Ynarajan and was received with the most marked hospitality. We
were met by the leading citizens as we approached, and it was
touching to see the efforts of all the people to show respect
to the American Government. Guns were fired, bells rung,
and the little son of the town governor walked by my side
playing the accordeon. We were taken to the best house in
the place, where we were entertained by the people. We
were given an excellent supper and were furnished comfortable beds with very clean, nice, snow-white sheets and pillowcases. The next morning the population, including the women,
called. We were given a good breakfast and six of the citizens insisted upon accompanying us to Apra, a distance of
nearly, if not quite, 15 miles. It rained during most of the
morning, at times the fall being quite heavy. In this and in
all our travels on the island we avoided drinking water. It
is supposed that the sickness of our marines at Agana was due
to this cause. A plant for distilling water was therefore
erected at that place, which seemed to remove the difficulties
in that locality. We, however, had no inconvenience, as we
Were continually passing cocoanut groves, and the natives
would climb a tree and drop one or more cocoanuts for each
member of the party. The cocoanut milk we always found
delicious and refreshing. The road or path from Ynarajan
to Apra passed over very high hills, separated by deep gulleys
through which run streams, one of which could properly be
called a river. These and the wet, slippery road made traveling difficult, but the views from the high hills were grand and
imposing. This route, moreover, was much shorter than the
road we had passed over the day before, being only about
half its distance. At Apra we embarked for Sumai, and from
that place hastened to the ship.




REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF G(UAM.


ADMINISTRATION.
There is no question but that the governor and his aid,
Lieutenant Safford, have used their best judgment in framing
the orders which have become the laws of the island of Guam.
I attach to my report these orders, Nos. 1 to 14:
General Order No. 1, dated August 16, 1899, prohibited
the disposal of liquors to any person who was not a resident
of the island prior to August 7.
General Order No. 2, same date, prohibited the importation
of liquors except by special license.
General Order No. 3, August 21, 1899, prohibited the sale
of land without first obtaining the consent of the Government.
General Order No. 4, August 25, 1899, limited the celebration of religious feast days to the walls of the church, chapel,
or private residence, and provided that the only public holidays recognized would be Sundays and the holidays authorized
by the United States statute laws and by the proclamations
of the President of the United States.
General Order No. 5 prohibits concubinage, and commands
all persons so living together out of the bonds of wedlock to
be married.
General Order No. 6, October 4, 1899, prohibits the exportation of certain products of the island.
General Order No. 7, October 4, 1899, commands inhabitants who are without trade or habitual occupation to plant
certain products and keep certain live stock.
General Order No. 8 prohibits the importation or disposal
of any intoxicating stimulant except by special license issued
by the Government.
General Order No. 9, December 6, 1899, requires that dogs
be licensed, and states that animals, large and small, must not
be permitted to run loose in the roads or streets.
General Order No. 10, January 5, 1900, abolishes the Spanish system of taxation on real estate and provides for a new
system.
General Order No. 11, January 19, 1900, condemns the lawless conduct of certain persons belonging to the station.
General Order No. 12, January 22, 1900, provides a system
of public education, and prohibits religious instruction in
favor of any particular church or creed.




36


REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.


General Order No. 13, January 23, 1900, requires each
adult resident to learn to write his or her name before the
1st day of July, 1900, unless prevented from so doing by
physical disability.
General Order No. 14, February 3, 1900, provides regulations regarding men attached to the command who absent
themselves from the station.
I also attach a 6-page pamphlet containing the rates charged
and collected upon goods imported from foreign countries,
and also stating " alcoholic liquors will be subject to the same
duty as similar goods shipped from foreign ports; " and also
that "an export duty of 3 pesos per ton will be charged upon
all copra shipped from the island to foreign ports. Copra
may be shipped to the United States ports free."
I also attach the following proclamations made by Governor
Leary.
1. Proclamation of August 10, 1899, in both English and
Chamorro languages, in which is proclaimed his occupation
and administration of the government of the island.
2. Proclamation of November 3, 1899, in the Chamorro
language.
3. Proclamation of January 1, 1900, prohibits peonage on
the island.
I made inquiry regarding this matter. It had been the
custom for laboring men to borrow money and contract to
work for the creditor until the debt was paid. I was
informed that the purpose of the proclamation was not to
cancel the debt but to prohibit compulsory labor for the purpose of its liquidation.
The orders and proclamations show for themselves and
need no comment from me. The orders with regard to
religion are evidently considered as a hardship and are distasteful to the majority of the people.
It had been the custom to ring the church bell at Agana at
4 o'clock in the morning, for daily early mass. The governor by verbal orders prohibited the ringing of the bell
before 8 o'clock in the morning. This caused some dissatisfaction, but thegovernor told me that the early ringing
disturbed the sick in the hospital.
The tax law is light upon persons who have improved property, and is, I think, approved by them, but it is a very
heavy burden upon those who own unimproved or partly




REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.


37


improved property, and they feel the burden very keenly.
Thus far there has been no collection of land tax, but it is
quite evident that this law will cause property to pass out of
the hands of those persons who own considerable bodies of
unimproved land.
I understood from Lieutenant Safford that the tax upon
unimproved mountain or sabana land was 10 cents per hectare,
but I find that clause 6 of General Order No. 10 fixes it at 5
cents. I do not know whether I misunderstood him as stating
that it was 10 cents or whether it has been increased to that
figure since General Order No. 10 was published.
I insert the proclamations and orders which have been promulgated by Governor Leary in sequence according to date.
It will be seen that the proclamation of August 10 proclaims the occupation and administration of the government
of the island. This proclamation also statesThat, for the present preservation of law and order, the existing laws
not conflicting with the provisions of this proclamation will continue in
force until modified or annulled by competent authority.
The only clause in the proclamation which could be construed as changing existing Spanish law is expressed in these
words:
That all political rights heretofore exercised by the clergy in dominating the people of the island are hereby abolished, and everyone is guaranteed absolute freedom of worship.
Therefore the laws which existed in the island under Spanish rule are by the terms of the proclamation the law at this
time, except in so far as modified by the above and by the following-described orders and proclamations, viz: Orders Nos.
1 to 10, inclusive, and Nos. 12 and 13, and the order fixing
tariffs, dated November 3, and the proclamations dated
November 3, 1899, and January 1, 1900.
Legal questions are constantly arising involving the rights
of property and the liberty of citizens. It would therefore
aid very much in maintaining justice and insuring decisions
based upon correct legal principles for a court to be established at Guam presided over by a man learned in the law.
The decisions now being announced may or may not be in
accordance with the law, and questions may arise as to the
authority of a naval officer or a military governor to render
decisions affecting property rights.




38          REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.
Prompt Congressional action would do much to insure tranquillity.
The proclamations and orders issued by Governor Leary are
as follows:
PROCLAMATION TO THE INHABITANTS OF GUAM AND TO WHOM IT MAY
CONCERN.
Pursuant to the provisions of a treaty of peace between the United
States and Spain, concluded by their respective plenipotentiaries at Paris,
France, the 10th day of December, 1898, the future control, disposition,
and government of the island of Guam are ceded to the United States.
Now, therefore, by virtue of the authority vested in me by His Excellency the President of the United States, I, Richard P. Leary, captain,
United States Navy, and governor of the island of Guam, do hereby announce and publicly proclaim my actual occupation and administration of
this island, in the fulfillment of the rights of sovereignty thus acquired
and the responsible obligations of government thus assumed.
That you, the inhabitants of Guam, are hereby informed that in establishing a new political power the authority of the United States will be
exerted for the security of the persons and property of the people of the
island and for the confirmation of all your private rights and relations.
That all political rights heretofore exercised by the clergy in dominating
the people of the island are hereby abolished, and everyone is guaranteed
absolute freedom of worship and full protection in the lawful pursuits of
life, so long as that protection is deserved by actual submission to and
compliance with the requirements of the Government of the United States.
That all public lands and property and all rights and privileges, on shore
or in the contiguous waters of the island, that belonged to Spain at the
time of the surrender, now belong to the United States, and all persons are
warned against attempting to purchase, appropriate, or dispose of any of
the aforesaid properties, rights, or privileges without the consent of the
United States Government.
That, for the present preservation of law and order, the existing laws not
conflicting with the provisions of this proclamation will continue in force
until modified or annulled by competent authority, and all persons are
enjoined to render prompt and cheerful obedience to the same in order
that the blessings of good government, with the benefits of civilization and
freedom, coupled with happiness and prosperity for the greatest good of
the greatest number, may be the heritage of all residents of the island, as
worthy citizens of the island of Guam, under the free flag of the United
States.
In witness whereof I have hereunto set my hand and caused the seal of
the United States naval station, isle of Guam, to be affixed.
Done at Agana, isle of Guam, this tenth day of August in the year of our
Lord one thousand eight hundred and ninety-nine, and of the independence of the United States of America the one hundred and twenty-fourth.
[SEAL.]                                RICHARD P. LEARY,
Captain, United States Navy, Governor of Guan.




REPORT ON THE ISLAND         OF GUAM.           38
General Order }                          GOVERNMENT HOUSE,
No. 1.                          Agana, Guam, August 16, 1899.
It is prohibited to sell, issue, or in any way to dispose of any intoxicating spirituous liquors in the island of Guam, or in the contiguous watery,
reefs, or lands thereof, to any person who was not a resident of this island
prior to August 7, 1899; and any person convicted of violating this order
may be punished by a fine not exceeding $100 (Mexican money), or
imprisonment not exceeding one month, or both, on approval of the governor; and the offender's contraband goods shall be confiscated.
RICHARD P. LEARY, U. S. N.,
Governor.
General Order }
No. 2.   1
On and after September 15, 1899, the importation of whisky, brandy,
rum, gin, aguardiente, or of any other intoxicating spirituous liquor into
the island of Guam or its contiguous waters, reefs, or lands, is prohibited,
except by a special license issued by the G(overnment; and any offender
against this order may be punished by fine or imprisonment, or both,
upon approval by the governor; and the offender's contraband goods shall
be confiscated.
RICHARD P. LEARY,
Governorr.
General Order }                          GOVERNMENT HOUSE,
No. 3.                          Agana, Guam, August 21, 1899.
For the protection of Government interests, and as a safeguard for the
residents of Guam against the machinations, devices, and schemes of speculators and adventurers, it is hereby ordered that all persons who claim
ownership of land in this island or its dependencies are prohibited from
selling or transferring any portion of such property without first obtaining the consent of the Government. Violation of this order may be punished by fine or imprisonment, or both.
RICHARD P. LEARY, U. S. N.,
Governor.,
General Order                            GOVERNMENT HOUSE,
No. 4.                          Agana, Guam, August 25, 1899.
Public celebrations of feast days of the patron saints of villages, etc.,
will not be permitted. The church and its members may celebrate their
religious feast days within the walls of the church, chapel, or private residence, in accordance with regulations for the maintenance of the public
peace; and, unless otherwise ordered, the only public holidays recogniaed
will be Sundays and the holidays authorized by the United States statcte
laws, and by the proclamations of His Excellency, the President of the
United States.
RICHARD P. LEARY, U. S. N.,
Goverrnors




40           REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.
General Order                            GOVERNMENT HOUSE,
No. 5.  f                     Agana, Guam,,Setembe r 15, 1899..The existing custom of concubinage, rearing families of illegitimate
children, is repulsive to ideas of decency, antagonistic to moral advancement, incompatible with the generally recognized customs of civilized
society, a violation of the accepted principles of Christianity, and a most
degrading injustice to the innocent offspring, who is not responsible for
the condition of his unfortunate existence.
The aforesaid custom is henceforth prohibited, and is declared to be an
offense punishable, after November 3, 1899, by fine and imprisonment;
and all persons in this island so living together out of the bonds of wedlock
are commanded to procure from the Government the necessary marriage
license, and to be married, by either the civil or church authorities, or by
both, in order that their children may become legitimatized.
Until November 3, 1899, the license and the civil ceremony will be free.
RICHARD P. LEARY, T.. N.,
Governor.
General Order                            GOVERNMENT HOUSE,
No. 6.   J                       Agana, Guam, October 4, 1899.
1. Until otherwise ordered, the exportation of cattle, hogs, fowl, eggs,
rice, corn, and sweet potatoes from this island is hereby forbidden.
2. Articles of food may be delivered to vessels only in sufficient quantities for the subsistence of those on board during their stay in port and
their passage to the next port of their destination.
3. The delivery of such articles of food to ships is prohibited without a
Government permit.
RICHARD P. LEARY, U. S. N.,
Governor.
General Order ~                          GOVERNMENT HOUSE,
No. 7.   4                       Agana, Guam, October 4, 1899.
1. Every inhabitant who is without a trade or habitual occupation, by
means of which he is able to provide for the necessities of himself and
his family, must plant a quantity of corn, rice, coffee, cacao, sweet potatoes,
or other fruits and vegetables sufficient for that purpose.
2. He must also have at least twelve hens, one cock, and one sow.
3. The land necessary for the provisions of article 1 is understood to
mean that which produces with good results a single article; if it be suitable for two or more articles he must plant as great a quantity as possible
consistent with the means at his disposal, and taking into consideration
what is most necessary for the maintenance of life.
4. Citizens who possess no land for planting may solicit from the Government that which they may require for this object.
i. When land is once granted it must be cleared, cleaned, and planted
within such a time as the Government may deem necessary, the period
being indicated when the grant is made, the means of the petitioner being
taken into consideration.




REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.                    41
6. If the land be not cleaned at the expiration of the time fixed when
the grant was made, the person receiving the grant will be considered
vagrant, unless he prove that he was prevented from accomplishing the
work by some good cause.
7. Every part of the island may be utilized for cultivation, even though
the sites selected be adjacent to cattle ranches. In the latter case it will
be obligatory for the planter to inclose his garden patch with fences to protect them from damage by cattle.
8. Those who, by virtue of this provision, have their plantation near cattle ranches can not claim damages for injuries caused by cattle if it can be
proved that the plantations were not properly protected by inclosures.
9. Henceforth lands granted for pastures or plantations may be utilized
by their possessors for stock farming or for agriculture, according to the
nature of the soil, with the condition that they may be properly fenced in,
so that he who wishes to start a stock farm will be obliged, before taking
his cattle thither, to fence in the territory where they are to graze, being
responsible for the damage that they may cause to the crops of neighbors
for lack of fences or of proper care.
Captains of towns and inspectors of crops will report monthly in writing
concerning the progress of the plantations and other matters referred to in
this order.
RICHARD P. LEARY, IT. S. N.,
Governor.
GENERAL ORDER }                          GOVERNMENT HOUsE,
No. 8.                        Agana, Guam, November 1, 1899.
1. On and after November 3, 1899, it is prohibited to import or to sell,
issue, provide, or in any way to dispose of any intoxicating stimulant
(liquid, gelatinous, or solid) in the island of Guam or in the contiguous
waters, reefs, or lands thereof, to any person residing or visiting within
the limits of the above-stated territory, except by a special license issued
by the Government; and any person convicted of violating this order may
be punished, for the first offense by a fihe not exceeding $100 (Mexican
money) or imprisonment not exceeding thirty days, or both, and for each
succeeding offense the penalty may be doubled, on approval of the governor, and for each conviction the offender's contraband goods shall be
confiscated.
2. Residents or visitors in this island are forbidden to purchase or procure any intoxicating stimulant referred to in this order except by special
permission of the Government, and any person who violates this order
will be punished at the discretion of the local authorities.
3. Drunkenness, the chief source of all crime and trouble in this island,
must and shall cease.
RICHARD P. LEARY, U. S. N.,
Governor.
PROCLAMA.
A los Ilabitantes de Guatm:
Ya, que plugo ti la Divina Providencia de Dios omnipotente favorecernos
durante el ailo pasado (on su continuado benevolencia 6 ilimitado amor,




42


REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.


como lo ha demostrado concediendonos los innumerables beneficios de la
salud, dicha, paz, prosperidad, protecci6n y libertad de culto religioso,
exenci6n de los azotes devastadores de las epidemias y huracanes, soltura
de la arrogante y tiranica dominacion de indignos preceptores y haci6ndonos gozar de otros innumerables beneficios incesantes, es congruente que
se fijo un dia como dia de accion de gracias y de oracion A nuestro Supremo
Bienhechor por todos estos dones.
Por tanto en armonia con la veneranda costumbre antigua del Gobierno
de los Estados Unidos, yo, Ricardo P. Leary, capitan de la Armada de
los Estados Unidos, gobernador de Guam, por la presente elijo y fijo el
jueves, 30 de noviembre, 1899, como dia de accion de gracias y oraci6n, y
se recomienda A todas las personas en esta isla que se abstengan dicho dia
de todo trabajo innecesario y se reunan en sus respectivos lugares de adoracion, en las horas que sean convenientes, para dar gracias y alabanzas al
Dios todopoderoso por su misericordiosa bondad y alnorosa fineza para
con nosotros y con todos los hombres.
En testimonio de llo firmo esta proclama y hago estamparla con el sello
de la Estaci6n Naval de los Estados Unidos, en la Isla de Guam.
Dado en Agafia, isla de Guam, A tres de noviembre, del afio de Nuestro
Sefior de mil ochocientos noventa y nueve y el ciento veinticuatro de la
Independencia de los Estados Unidos de Am6rica.
[SEAL.]                                 RI(ICARD P. LEARY,
Gobernador.
TARIFF RATES FOR THE ISLAND OF GUAM.
1. An export duty of 3 pesos per tol will be charged upon all copra
shipped from this island to foreign ports. Copra may be shipped to
United States ports free.
2. Goods from United States territory will be admitted free, with the
exception of alcoholic liquors, which will be subject to the same duties as
similar goods shipped from foreign ports.
3. The rates of duty, as herein mentioned, shall be levied, collected, and
paid upon articles imported from foreign countries on and after November
3, 1899.
Absinthe.......................................... $8 per gallon.
Alcohol, amylic or fusel oil................... -  cent per lb.
Animals. —........ —..-............... --- —-—.... Free.
Anisette.-......................................-.  $8 per gallon.
Baking powder, yeast preparations............... Free.
Beads, coral.................................... 35 per cent ad val.
Beads, glass....................................... 35 per cent ad val.
Beef, mutton, and pork..-....................-..... 2 cents per lb.
Beer, ale, porter, in bottles.......................... 40centspergallon.
Blankets......................................... 22  cents  per  lb.,
and 30 per cent
ad val.
Books, charts, maps................................. Free.




REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.


148


Boots and shoes..............................
Brandy.....................................
Brass screws —... --- —- -........................ 
Bricks, fire and other........................ 
Brooms.. --- —---—. --- —---------—.........
Brushes. --- —-----------------—. ---
Buckets and tubs ------—.. --- —. ---
Butter and substitutes...........,  -
Buttons, sleeve and collar, gilt -—. --- —Candles. —...... --- —-------—. ---..............
Carts.. --- —---------—. —..-....-. 
Cement, hydraulic and other kinds.........
Charcoal..-. --- —--------... --- —-.. --- —
Cheese, all kinds ----------—.... --- —--—......-  -.
Chocolate.. --- —-—.. --- —-----------------------
Chromolithographs.. --- —----—... --- —-------—.Cigars and cigarettes —. ---....... ---.- --------—.
Clocks.... --- —-.. --- —------—...-... ---
Clothing, ready-made.... --- —----------—.-.
Coal --- —---------—..  ------------—..
Coffee.... --- —---------------—. --- —----- -----
Confectionery, all sugar..-.. ----.-.-. ----.........
Copper, manufactures of... --- —--—.. --- —---—....
Copra.. ---. --- —-. --- —--—. ---.. —...Cordage.. ---. —. --- —---—. --- —----—. --- —Cotton gloves.-..-. ----.. --- —..... — ---
handkerchiefs.-... --- —------—. ---—. ---- 
hosiery.-.... — ---. ---- --—. --...... — - - --
piece goods... ----.... --- —-----—... ----.
shirts and drawers.. --- —.. --- —------—.
webbing --—. --- —-... ----. --- ——. —. ---curtains-... --- —-—. -- -----------—.. ---
Cutlery... ---. --- —.. --- —. --- —----------------
Disinfectants.....-.............................
Drugs, chemicals, and druggists' wares -....-......
Dyes......-.. ----. --- —-—. --- —----—. --- —. —
Earthenware, common.. —......,..
porcelain. —......-.....-.........
Eggs.........................
Engravings........................................
Essences, flavoring....................
Extracts, meat.................................
Fertilizers, guanos, etc..............................
Firearms..........................................
Fire hose.........................................
Fish, preserved..................................
Fishing tackle...............................
Flannels...........................................
Flax, manufactures of...............................


20 per cent ad val.
$8 per gallon.
10 per cent ad val.
Free.
20 per cent ad val.
40 per cent ad val.
20 per cent ad val.
6 cents per lb.
50 per cent ad val.
20 per cent ad val.
Free.
Free.
Free.
6 cents per lb.
50 per cent ad val.
50 per cent ad val.
25 per cent ad val.
40 per cent ad val.
50 per cent ad val.
Free.
25 per cent ad val.
25 per cent ad val.
45 per cent ad val.
20 per cent ad val.
10 per cent ad val.
25 per cent ad val.
25 per cent ad val.
15 per cent ad val.
10 per cent ad val.
25 per cent ad val.
25 per cent ad val.
50 per cent ad val.
25 per cent ad val.
Free.
Free.
25 per cent ad val.
5 per cent ad val.
10 per cent ad val.
Free.
Free.
40 per cent ad val.
35 cents per lb.
Free.
50 per cent ad val.
Free.
1 cent per lb.
Free.
33 per cent ad val.
45 per cent ad val.




44          REPORT ON THE ISLAND        OF GUAM.
Flour......................................... Free.
Flowers, artificial..................        50 per cent ad val.
Fruits, preserved........-......-..... 35 per cent ad val.
Furniture, wood........-...,-...-. —..... 10 per cent ad val.
Gin.-.............-............   $8 per gallon.
Glassware.................. -. -30 per cent ad val.
Glass, window......-............  ------—. ----. 10 per cent ad val.
Gloves.... -. --- —-—. ----. —... --- —--.. —  - 40 per cent ad val.
Glue................- - -.... ------------------ 2~ cents per lb.
Hams and bacon -...... —..-..-.. --- —---. 5 cents per lb.
Hemp cordage -....... --- —-----.  2 cents per lb.
Hose, rubber........................................ Free.
India rubber, manufactures of.-.... ---- --. ---- 30 per cent ad val.
Instruments, metal. ------ -—.....-. --- —------ - Free.
Iron, corrugated.-....... —.......- ---—. --- —--- Free.
manufactures of. - ----- ----   -------     10 per cent ad val.
not manufactured -......-..-...-.    Free.
screws..........-............-.... Free.
tinned plates -..-........ — -----------------  1~ cents per lb.
Jewelry.......-................... -.-. --- —---- - 60 per cent ad val.
Kerosene. —....-.. --- —-.... --- —-------- 20 per cent ad val.
Knit goods, woolen.-........ --- ——.. --- —---- 30 cents per lb.
silk. --- ——.. ---. --- —----------   60 per cent ad val.
Kummel.................-......... —... -- - $8 per gall.
Lace......-.....-.............-................... 25 per cent ad val.
Lard..............................................  2 cents per lb.
Lard —. --- —----------------—. --- —---- 2 cents per Ib.
Lead -.-.c......                               2~ cents per lb.
Lead pipe.. —... —..... —.-. —.-. ---. —. ----   2j cents per lb.
Leather, manufactures of-.........-............... 35 'per cent ad val.
Lime.....-.....- --- --.....      --     Free.
Linen goods........................................ 50 per cent ad val.
Liqueurs, curacoa, maraschino, chartreuse, etc........ $8 per gall.
Lumber..........................................   Free.
Macaroni...................-................. 1~ cents per lb.
Matches, friction..... —............. --- —.. --- — 25 per cent ad val.
Matting.........  -. ----.................. 6 cents per sq. yd.
Meerschaum, pipes.. —.- -..-. --- —-.       60 per cent ad val.
Milk, condensed.....-............................. 2 cents per lb.
Molasses........................................... 3 cents per gall.
Musical instruments...........-............... Free.
Nails........................................... Free.
Newspapers, periodicals.... -—............. Free.
Oilcloth................  --—..-.... 8 cents per sq. yd.
Oil, linseed.........-.....-..............  10 cents per gall.
olive.      *...-................-.... —.. 20 cents per gall.
whale and seal....-..-.....-... ----.. —... 8 cents per gall.
Onions.............. -.......... 40centsperbushel.
Opium, liquid preparations............-............ 100 per cent ad val.
crude and unadulterated.-...... -....-...... $5 per lb.




REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.                 45
Paints, oil and water color-.......... Free.
Paintings and statuary.        Free.
Paper, manufactures ----------...... -.  35 per cent ad val.
Pepper, cayenne.. --- —-.        -................ 2~ cents per lb.
Perfumery, alcoholic --—. --- —- ---- 50 per cent ad val.
Photograph albums. --------------—. — Free.
Photographs -----------—.-.. ---- --- -------. ---. Free.
Pickles'... --- —. --- —--------- 40 per cent ad val.
Pins, metallic. --- —------------------ —. 35 per cent ad val.
Pipes, common -—.. ------—.                25 per cent ad val.
Plants, growing.. --------—.. ---. —. --- —-—....  Prohibited.
Potatoes -.. --- ----------. - - ------------. ----  Free.
Quinine, sulphate and salts --------------.   Free.
Rattan -... ----...-...........,.- - - ----—..   Free.
furniturec. --- —----—. --- ——. --- —--   Free.
Ribbons.. —. --- —--—. --- —--—. --- —.       10 per cent ad val.
Rice.-.., --- —-... --- —--------             10 per cent ad val.
Rum.-....-.. --- --.......... --------  $8 per gall.
Saki...-........-..... ---.-. —.. ----. $8 per gall.
Salmon, dried or smoked -... ----. —. --- — --....1 cent per lb.
preserved.-.. --- —.. --- --------- - 30 per cent ad val.
Salt ----.... --- —---------—. ----—. ----  8 cents per lb.
Sauces   -------------—. 40 per cent ad val.
Sausages. --- —-------------------- 25 per cent ad val.
Seeds, garden.. ----...-.... ----. ---...... -- Free.
Silk, material......-...... ---. 10 per cent ad val.
Slates..... --- —-—.. ---... Free.
Slippers -----------------------—.. --- —-....  20 per cent ad val.
Soap, castile-.-.-...-........            1i cents per lb.
toilet, perfumed...... -.-..... -. 15 per cent ad val.
Spirits, except bay rum.-....,...,... —. $4 per gall.
Sugar........     -.......,.......... 2 cents per lb.
Tapioca.......................................... 33 per cent ad val,
Tea.................-................ Free.
Tiles...-....-.-............         Free.
Tin plates........ -...................  1  cents per lb.
Tobacco, not manufactured...-.......-. 35 cents per lb.
Toys. -....................................... 10 per cent ad val.
Umbrellas, silk or alpaca-........................   50 per cent ad val.
cotton or paper....-............  25 per cent ad val.
Vegetables, natural.............. -............ Free.
preserved.................-.. 40 per cent ad val.
Watches........-................................ 40 per cent ad val.
Wheat.....-.................. *....... Free.
Whisky..-.............-.....................$8 per gall.
Willow, manufactures of...... -............. Free.
Wines, champagne.......-......*.....  $8 per gall.
claret, hock, sauterne, and burgundy.....-.. $2 per gall.
sherry, port, etc -.................*. $4 per gall.




46          REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.
Woods.. -................................... Free.
Wool or worsted yarns. --—. —. —. —,. —.., —... 33 per cent ad val.
Woolen clothing....- -----—. —.... --- —..... -..- 50 per cent ad val.
NOTE.-The above-mentioned tariff rates are in Mexican coin, or its
equivalent.
Approved:
RICHARD P. LEARY, U. S. N.,
Governor.
GENERAL ORDERS, l                       GOVERNMENT HOUSE,
No. 9.     1                 Agana, Guam, December 6, 1899.
1. Owners of dogs must procure a license from the Government, to be
paid annually, beginning the 1st of January, 1900.
2. Animals, large or small, must not be permitted to run loose in the
roads or streets nor to encroach on the property of neighbors.
3. Owners of animals will be held responsible for the enforcement of
this order and for its violation will be liable to damages and the confiscation of the offending animals.
RICHARD P. LEARY, U. S. N.,
Governor.
PROCLAMATION.
To the inhabitants of Guam:
In issuing this decree the Government desires and earnestly invokes
Divine blessing and guidance in its official action and in the daily pursuits
and occupations of the citizens of Guam.
By the cession of the isle of Guam to the United States of America all
of the authority, power, and responsibilities of sovereignty were transferred
to this Government, and in transforming and organizing the new political
power the surest and speediest route to success, prosperity, and happiness
for the inhabitants of this island is by benevolent assimilation to the fundamental principles that constitute the basis of free American government.
Honest labor with just compensation, dignified by faithful consideration
of the mutual interests and welfare of all persons concerned, should insure
prosperity to this community; whereas the existing labor-degrading system of human bondage and unjust, indefinite servitude or peonage permitted during the late Spanish control in this island is, in fact, a system of
slavery, and, as such, is subversive of good government, is an obstacle to
progressive civilization, a menace to popular liberty, and a violation of the
sacred privileges guaranteed by the Constitution of the United States.
Now, therefore, by virtue of the authority vested in me by his excellency
the President of the United States, I, Richard P. Leary, captain, United
States Navy, governor of the isle of Guam, do hereby announce and publicly proclaim absolute prohibition and total abolition of human slavery or
peonage in the isle of Guam on and after the 22d day of February, A. D.
1900; and all persons are hereby commanded to comply with the requirements of this proclamation.




REPORT ON THE ISLAND         OF GUAM.             47
In witness whereof I have hereunto set my hand and have caused the
seal of the United States Naval Station, isle of Guam, to be affixed.
Done at Agana, isle of Guam, this first day of January, in the year of our
Lord one thousand nine hundred, and of the Independence of the United
States of America the one hundred and twenty-fourth.
[SEAL.]                        RICHARD P. LEARY, IT. S. N.,
Governor.
General Order                            GOVERNMENT HOUSE,
No. 10.   J                      Agana, Guam, January 5, 1900.
1. The Spanish system of taxation on real estate is hereby abolished,
and in lieu thereof a land tax shall be levied, collected, and paid to the
Government in accordance with the following classification:
CLASS I. Lands within the limits of the towns and villages, comprising
the yards surrounding the dwelling houses, or land suitable for erecting
dwellings within the said limits, shall be taxed at the annual rate of 4 pesos
(Mexican) per hectare.
CLASS II. Stretches of low land along the coast suitable for raising cocoanuts; low, fertile land suitable for raising cacao or coffee; low, marshy
land susceptible of irrigation and suitable for raising rice or sugar, and
islands lying near the coast shall be taxed at the annual rate of 50 cents
(Mexican) per hectare.
CLAss III. Virgin forest land, with rich soil, requiring clearing, and
suitable for agricultural purposes or for pasture, shall be taxed at the
annual rate of 30 cents (Mexican) per hectare.
CLASS IV. Land on the mesa or uplands, not susceptible of irrigation nor,
within easy reach of water for stock, and suitable for tobacco and sweet
potatoes or corn, shall be taxed at the annual rate of 15 cents (Mexican)
per hectare.
CLASS V. Marsh lands not suitable for the cultivation of rice or sugar
shall be taxed at the annual rate of 10 cents (Mexican) per hectare.
CLASS VI. Sabana land, with soil so thin as to permit nothing but sword
grass and ironwood to grow upon it, shall be taxed at the annual rate of 5
cents (Mexican) per hectare.
2. The lack of facilities for transportation of cattle and produce making it
difficult to reach the market, until otherwise ordered a reduction of 20 per
cent will be allowed on the foregoing rates for the following-named districts, viz: Umata, Merizo, Ynarajan, Tarafofo, Ilic, Pago, and the districts
of land lying to the northward and eastward of a straight line connecting
Point Aguy and Point Lujuna.
3. Upon the payment of a land tax a certificate of payment will be
issued, and before registering a title to or transferring any portion of land
the certificate of tax payment therefor must be presented for inspection as
a proof of ownership.
4. The provisions of this order go into effect immediately, and the tax
will be paid semiannually, on the 30th day of June and the 31st day of
December of each year.
RICHARD P. LEARY, U. S. N.,
Governor.




48          REPORT ON THE ISLAND         OF GUAM.
General Order }                          GOVERNMENT HOUSE,
No. 11.                        Agana, Guam, January 19, 1900.
1. It is to be regretted that the licentious and lawless conduct of some
of the men belonging to this station has made it necessary to issue this
order, which is intended to be a reminder that in assuming control of
this island the Government is pledged to fulfill its guarantee of absolute
protection of all the rights and privileges of the residents of Guam in their
homes and in their lawful pursuits of life.
2. Attention is hereby called to the fact that the natives of Guam are not
"damned dagoes" nor "niggers," but they are law-abiding, respectful
human beings, who have been taken under the protection of the United
States Government and who are as much entitled to courtesy, respect, and
protection of life and liberty in their homes and in their occupations as are
the best citizens of New York, Washington, or any other home city.
3. The several disgraceful cases of assault, committed by persons attached
to this station, interfering with the functions of local officials, ruthlessly
destroying private property, viciously violating the sancity of native
homes, etc., were worthy only of the dastardly cowards and blackguards
who were implicated in those acts, and it is deeply regretted that the
Government has thus far been unable to sufficiently establish the identity
of the culprits and their abettors in order that they might be brought to
justice.
4. For the preservation of the well-earned reputation of the American
Navy as champions in succoring the needy, aiding the distressed, and protecting the honor and virtue of women, it is earnestly hoped that the honorable, self-respecting portion of this command will unite their efforts in
using all lawful means within their power to discourage and suppress every
known tendency on the part of others to commit lawless acts that would
cast dishonor and shame on the service in which we have shared the honors and trials of wars and to which we have dedicated our official lives.
RICHARD P. LEARY, U. S. N.,
Governor.
General Order }                          GOVERNMENT HOUSE,
No. 12.  JAgana, Guam), fanuary 22, 1900.
1. The system of public education in this island is hereby placed under
the supervision and exclusive control of the Government, and all necessary
expenses for the maintenance of the public schools will be defrayed by the
Government.
2. Religious instruction in favor of any particular church or creed is
prohibited and all religious training heretofore required by the late school
customs or rules must be eliminated from the course of instruction, as the
proper place for religious teaching is the home circle, church, chapel, or
Sunday school.
3. All children between the ages of 8 and 14 years must attend school,
unless excused therefrom by competent authority for good reasons that
interfere with their attendance.
4. Instruction in the English language will be introduced in the public




REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.                   49
schools as soon as suitable teachers can be provided, and it is expected
that the present force of native teachers will cheerfully and harmoniously
cooperate with the teachers of English in order that the greatest benefits
may be derived by both scholars and preceptors.
RICHARD P. LEARY, U. S. N.,
Governor.
General Order D                         GOVERNMENT HOUSE,
No. 13.  1                     Agana, Guam, January 23, 1900.
1. Every adult resident of this island must learn to write his or her own
name before the 1st day of July, 1900, unless prevented from doing so
by physical disability.
2. The signature must be plain and legible, suitable for use when
required in legal documents or commercial transactions, and must be without ornamentation, scroll, or other rubrical decoration.
3. Any citizen may procure from the Government a suitable sample of
his or her written name for use as a copy to be imitated in practice and
instruction.
4. All residents are recommended to utilize every available opportunity
to learn how to read, write, and speak the English language, thereby
improving their own mental condition as well as preparing themselves for
assisting their children, who are required by law to attend school.
RICHARD P. LEARY, U. S. N.,
Governor.
General Order A                         GOVERNMENT HOUSE,
No. 14.                        Agana, Guam, February 3, 1900.
1. Any person attached to this command who absents himself from his
ship or station without authority and lives with the natives in Chamorro
fashion, which is prohibited, thereby incurs the risk of infection by dangerous fever or disease.
2. Until otherwise ordered, such person or persons, if apprehended, will
be placed in quarantine a sufficient period of time to allow development
of possible infection before being allowed to associate with others of the
command.
3. This quarantine is a sanitary precaution required by the local government, and is not to be regarded as a punishment nor to interfere with such
official action as may be deemed advisable for the punishment of offenses
in accordance with the United States Navy regulations.
4. Any member of this command who shall strike, maltreat, threaten,
or in any other manner attempt to intimidate a resident of this island for
the purpose of committing acts in violation of the law shall be punished
at the discretion of the local authorities.
5. Any native or other resident of this island who shall be convicted of
harboring, protecting, or assisting a refugee from a ship or station will be
punished at the discretion of the local authorities.
RICHARD P. LEARY, U. S. N.,
Governor.
24886 —4




50


REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.


The general -conditions of the harbor of San Luis D'Apra
are very favorable to the establishment of a coaling station
and landing place for large vessels.
A railroad should be run from the mainland over the narrow space of water which separates it from the island of
Cabras. The railroad should run along the island to its outer
point. A mole or pier of stone should then be run (turning
to the left) inward at about right angles to Cabras Island. Its
direction would be about south-southwest. For the first 1,100
feet the mole or pier would be built on a solid coral rock bottom, where at low tide the water is only about 3 feet deep.
At 1,100 feet from the shore the water deepens very suddenly
to the depth of 3j fathoms. For the next 200 feet the depth
very gradually increases, and at the end of this distance it
measures 4 fathoms.  The depth here almost instantly is
increased to 15 or 16 fathoms, the bank being precipitous.
I attach as Exhibit " B " a map of the harbor. The red line
A B indicates the proposed railroad from the mainland to
Cabras Island and the railroad on the island. The red line BC
indicates the mole to the depth of 34 fathoms, and the red line
CD the portion where the depth varies from 3- fathoms to the
point where the depth suddenly increases to 15 fathoms.
BREAKWATER.
From the end of Cabras Island a stone breakwater should
be built running the entire length of Luminum Reef, a distance of about 24 miles. The first mnile and a quarter would
be on a broad reef which is bare at low water; the last mile
and a quarter would be in water varying in depth from 3i
to 6 fathoms, the depth for most of the distance being about
34 fathoms. The dotted line EF indicates the first half, which
is bare at low water; the dotted line FG indicates the portion
which is always covered.
MARCH 15, 1900.
It is proper for me to explain the length of time occupied
in traveling from Manila to Washington. I M as ordered to
proceed on the ship WTVarren on January 24, but as the Warren
was unable to procure coal in Manila, the chief quartermaster
j




REPORT ON THE ISLAND OF GUAM.


at Manila ordered the ship to proceed to Hongkong for that
purpose. After coaling, the ship proceeded immediately to
Guam, where it was necessarily delayed, for my inspection
and examination of the island, from Tuesday, February 8,
to Saturday, February 12. The ship then proceeded under
orders of the chief quartermaster, Department of the
Pacific, to Honolulu, where she again coaled, and also had
her machinery repaired; the entire delay at that place being
five days. In order to prevent the possibility of being quarantined at San Francisco, no one connected with the ship
went ashore, and she was moored some 6 feet f rom the dock.
Notwithstanding these precautions the ship was quarantined
in San Francisco, so that we were not permitted to go ashore
until the night of Wednesday, March 7.
The orders for myself and secretary to proceed to Washington only reached me Saturday evening. I left on the first
train Saturday evening and came directly to Washington
without stopping.
Respectfully,
JOSEPH WTIHEELER,
Brigadie- General, United States I olhn teers.


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