Brjlr ia_,3,g1~.Li..|8 I PPi 1 1 Il X g ~ 24i ii ii ii,.j,,' ii'''jj'j L.igjj i iii it i i~llE |g1E ll10 SE ~iS 1202||' 1Slllnl~E i jiag00 ii | i i~~~l~l il 1 0L 'g ' |''' " '1-~ i~~i 1 1 M E 111fi131110 ii1 11!i111|1gE11111| 9 s gi. i iii i i x.' i i iiii i i ii ' i i' ~ i 0 ' i ' i i;~~ ~ 111111111113i -'. il<.0. lililililil RIi~l:~i 11 111~al ~ 8~' j~li i ililil'i':' iiii ~~~~1_lliSSINlliisilll 111~~~l r~ xn.:~, ~ xa:~ r m i x g rx1 > 3is> l~r s~rr a l 3 Xr r 4 0. l0 i x.2 1al l.3t.EX r'i. lEsI0 I0..i0' ~i 0 XII0rX'r0 11~ '.|Xl: E S 9 3SrSrx>- m Ex >rlEl. >flr.g M~ X.l l i.................... lXl il SuEll-i. <>2rW u.tl. g l a> l.l 3 l Sll m - _ 111111111||11 illlll il.x3323x il~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~~ ~~liii' *||11 l_ ~:'l~;111111|1 11i~1_ ' l'; " 'IT i If 4 I I. I j, 4, j i t i!i - ), mLi em rsv X STEPH7N SPA JULDNVG Ye,7 -. sat ~t^'J * Yf oMI TNIVERlITY orfMICHIGAN The The Chiefs and Chiefesses, Their Palaces, Monuments Portraits and Tombs A History of JOLANI PALACE A Narrative of the Kingdom of Hawaii from KAMEHAMEHA I to LILIUOKALANI Also the PROVISIONAL GOVERNMENT REPUBLIC OF HAWAII TERRITORY OF HAWAII Prinlted by Adver'tiser Pub)lishing Co., 1927 Compiled from Official Records and Other Sources By ALBERT PIERCE TAYLOR, (Author of "Under Hawaiian Skies") Librarian, Archives of Hawaii, Hawaiian Islands. Copyrighted, 1927 Copyrighted, 1927 POtO by Mu Poto See0ltlt Air Corps IT. SI. A Ty. Former Palaeo of King Kalaikaa ani Queen ilftiokalaini. Palae in centerf former Alfiolani Iale light foreground. ~~ i;~.C~.idli;~ ii 1 ,, IE ~.B, I ii E~ '"' ;~~~.li;I r~ i. 66 il i/ ~ "' E1'~ a~ i ~g I ~Ei' ;~" i;s L'i~ 9 ~~i~ Ia: 'I ~"; cl L.*I~.I, 1._i BE ~~ 1; B~ z *B. ~; b-:1 4 L~. "; ~~:~`. ~~.. 1: -~ '~~ "",1 81 d, ,,, U re ~.I"B ~I d L "" crJ ~ P-r.~ ~; i.;~I ~r..~t ~r a;:" "I 1 ~-~ td i~~'i. I% ~r o - i:~i*i..,t~.ss E 1..$ i" ~-,, 1 %,~E. E ~~~ idir ij~~i~ i-~ "~ : giiU:L I ,,,;D $:I r 1111 gi;. ~ ~rri I g"l~ Il' I i"j;~, ilr ~iarir.~I~ ~B, ';1:1;'.~~"1i ~~ r b I ~i; ~a:~,;~~ I,~;iE" '"'i i'"~ ~:~;~;lii Iric;,~ ~~;~ ii, ~ ~r ~x:~l~ ~ 9ix -8ii,,i. 3rPI I -,,,E -~r is *. -B CI ~Ii g s"B., -"""":~ ei~l 8'' " ii ~P 4 "illlli I.C1 I -~.~;;I~~ **. l ' ~.: t t A - ~ * I FROM BARBARISM TO CIVILIZATION R OMANCE, adventure, diplomacy, intrigue-frigates witi frowning guns-pageantry and gold lace-towering chiefs in the brilliant garb of ancient days-beautiful Hawaiian womennaval officers of the Powers-all seem to pass in review as one contemplates Iolani Palace, abode of sovereigns of the Hawaiian Islands. The period was in the barbaric past, when Hawaii, an isolated archipelago, was peopled by a lordly race whose civilization was foremost among Polynesian races. It was a brilliant era when, since 1820, Hawaii was undergoing its emergence from feudalism into modern civilization; when the bible, printing-press, and the school became a part of the nation's life. Hawaii, "the loveliest fleet of islands that lies anchored in any ocean," as Mark Twain described the archipelago in 1908, became a power in her contact with the Great Powers. Kamehameha III granted a constitution in 1840, gave constitutional liberty and freedom to adopt whatever religion appealed to each, and divided his feudal lands among all the people in 18 48. Within the little kingdom, under Kamehameha III, was organized a government that was a counterpart of that of Great Britain, with cabinet ministers, palaces, regalia, portfolios, an army and a navy department, and treaties were exchanged with all great Powers. Hawaii, described in 1866 by Mark Twain as a "government with the machinery of a Great Eastern packed in a sardine box," maintained a royal court as picturesque and colorful as any under the sun. .T - T - + THE ROYAL PALACE OF HAWII OIOLANI PALACE, formerly the abode of King Kala kaua and Queen Liliuokalani, and since June 2, 1893, known as the Executive Building (first for the Republic of Hawaii until June 14, 1900, and since for the Territory of Hawaii), was built during the reign of King Kalakaua and first ocIolanli Palace and G(rolunds cupied by him in January, 1883. The original palace, built in 1846, received its name at the commencement of the reign of Kmeam eha a V, in 1863. lolani translated means the "bird of heaven." On June 2, 1893, the Executive and Advisory Councils of the Provisional Government of Hawaii, in session, adopted the following resolution by unanimous vote: Resolved: The offices of the Executive Council shall be in lolani Palace, which shall hereafter be the seat of government and shall be know as the Executive Building. Meetings of the Advisory and Executive Councils shall be held in the Executive Building. Aliiolari Hale shall hereafter be known as the courthouse. 7 Kamehameha V, at a meeting of the Privy Council, held on December 7, 1863, shortly after his accession, suggested the name of St. Alexander Palace, but in the opinion of the Council, Iolani Palace was a more appropriate designation, and the King directed that it be the official title of the royal residence. The new building, which cost in excess of $350,000, stands on the site of the first palace, which was completed in 1845 and razed in 1878 to make way for the present structure. The corner stone was laid December 31, 1879, the birthday of Queen Kapiolani, consort of King Kalakaua, by the Masonic fraternity of Honolulu, at the request of the King, a 33" Scottish Rite Mason and a Knight Templar. Its completion was celebrated December 27, 1882, by a Masonic banquet held therein by the united Miasonic lodges of Honolulu. The structure is of brick, with cement facings and concrete block trimmings; two stories in height, surmounted by six towers, and has a basement and an attic. The interior is finished with the choicest woods of Hawaii's forests. The ground plan is 120 feet by 140 feet, and the building from the ground to the top of the central towers is 80 feet. CHANGE OF CAPITALS Honolulu is the third capital site since 1791, and the second since Kamehameha I (the Great) conquered the King of Oahu in the memorable and decisive battle of Nuuanu in April, 1 795. He immediately ceased warring and began to develop the natural resources of his empire. When, by his own bravery and indomitable will, he had become master of the larger portion of the island of Hawaii, Kamehameha left his home in fertile Kailua, on the west coast of Hawaii, and removed to the barren, sun-dried seabeach at Kawaihae. This would seem a strange proceeding on the part of the King, but historians assert it was only an evidence of superior wisdom. He gathered about him the conquered chiefs, together with his own warriors and councillors, and kept them continually with him, supplying their food and other necessaries of life from his own 8 storeheuses, By this method the chiefs became entirely dependent upon Karnelhanmeh. Moreover, it was entirely impossible for them to carry on any conspiracy of rebellion, for they had no means to provide food or to support adherents. Under these circumstances, the Kings wie men and councillors advised him to eect the temple of Puukohola, at Kawaihae, Hawaii, as a means of entrapping Keonea the kings last opponent tor supreacy or that island, and also a relative. Thus occurred n eal ther (downfall of Keoua, and 5 the romp1 te tiumph of Kam I ameIla as sovereign over the entire istheland of Ha Theai Sulequinitly, tse seat o f govth e eromimnt was removed to Laprovincehaina island contf aui. The policy of removing the government to this place, onl y recentl conquered, was regarded as a wise one. The traditioral thiory tclsamehsa o the lcountry shows that in the Puissla" w 17erela 519 places last conquered the chief and the court were always retaried together The dominant Itought in this policy was to retner the people of the conquered provinces quiet and contented with their condition under their new chiefs, whom thiey were thus brought to recognize as tIheir conquerors. At Lahaina (anciently called Lele, from the short stay of the chiefs there) sas established the first seat of government by thle chiefs and the royal court, in consequence of whlich the "Halet Puilla" was erected as a palace, which, in after years, became a courthouse and continued as such up to the time of its demolition. It was erected under the direction of Kahekili (O:ld Thunder), svho was head man under Kamehamehla I. 9 It is recorded that the chiefs probably intended to locate permanently at Lahaina, for there they commenced an actual system of government by defining the different departments. Kamehameha III officially designated Lahaina as the capital. There, also, was convened the first Legislature in the Hawaiian Islands. The first Constitution was promulgated at Lahaina by Kamehameha III on October 8, 1840, the document continuing the old Council of Chiefs as the House of Nobles, to sit in council with the King and the Premier, and providing for additional members. The House of Nobles was in session at Lahaina from November 2 to 14, 1840, inclusive. Owing to the importance of the harbor of Honolulu, its central position in the group, and its increasing population, the principal chiefs and councillors induced King Kauikeaouli, styled Kamehameha III, to remove the seat of government to Honolulu, Oahu, in the year 1843, where he took up his residence in the "Haleuluhe," at Pelekane (Britannia), in the vicinity of the site of the present St. Andrew's (Episcopal) Cathedral. FIRST ROYAL PALACE In July, 1844, Governor Mataio (Matthew) Kekuanaoa, of Oahu, commenced the erection of a building, known at that time by the name of "Hanailoia." In an address made by the late John M. Kapena, minister in the cabinet under King Kalakaua, at the laying of the corner stone of the new palace, December 31, 1879, it was said that in olden times a large heiau (temple) ex. tended to this spot, the name of which was Kaahaimauli. The dwelling was erected by Governor Kekuanaoa for his daughter, the Princess Victoria Kamamalu, who was the sister of Prince Alexander Liholiho and Prince Lot Kamehameha, who afterwards became, respectively, Kamehameha IV and Kamehameha V. Her mother, the High Chiefess Kinau, the Premier of tile kingdom, was a half-sister of Kamehameha III, all being descendants of Kamehameha I. Kamehameha III, however, took possession of the house as a palace, and from that time it was the official residence of the sovereigns of Hawaii. It was demolished in 1878. 10 When Governor Kekuanaoa erected this palace the grounds were not as spacious as at present. On the western (ewa) corner was Kekuanaoa's house, which he had named "Hallimaile." Subsequently he began the erection of a large stone house, only the walls of which were built. These afterwards vanished into thin air when the stones composing them were sold by his son, Kamehameha V. During the reign of Kamehameha IV, his actual residence was the frame structure near the Palace, styled "Ihikapukalani," standing where the great banyan tree now spreads its massive limbs. On the makai (seaward) end were Queen Emma's private apart' I. Pala:e of Karochamrelas III, IV, V,, lalulo. K.lakau (18; 6 β€” 1878) ments states Col. Curtis P. Iaukea, who was chamberlain to King Kalakaua and Queen Liliuokalani. On the mauka (mountain) side ere the dining room, pantry and kitchen. "Hoihoikea," another structure, in which Kamehameha V preferred to reside, rather than in the palace, and which was used largely for state and formal occasions, stood on the ewa side of the present driveway between the Palace and Hotel street entrance. About where the Archives building stands, a stone wall ran from King street to Hotel street, then known as Palace Walk, It ran close to the royal tomb, used as such until 1865, and now a mound surrounded by a hibiscus hedge. On the waikiki side of the wall were the premises of the High Chiefess KekaLluohi, Premier from 1838 to 1843, and the mother of Lunalilo, who became King in 1872. Her land was called Pohukaina, and was afterwards partially incorporated in the Palace grounds. The building, "Hoihoikea," stood near what was called "Kinau Hale," or House of Kinau, the chiefess who became Premier. The western or ewa gate, where it opened upon Richards street, was called the "Kinau Gate," after the Premier and because her residence was adjacent. (The above is credited to Colonel laukea.) In the premises known as Pohukaina, in the southeast (waikikimakai) corner, at King and Likelike streets, the High Chiefess Kekauluohi, a Premier, mother of Prince Lunalilo, who became King in 1 873, erected her house. When John Young, son of the Englishman who was detained ashore on Hawaii in 1790 from the schooner Eleanora, and afterwards became principal adviser to Kamehameha I, was Premier, he built and lived in "Kinau Hale," on the northern boundary. He was known among the Hawaiians as Keoni Ana. "Hoihoikea" was the name given to the large, old-fashioned, livable cottage erected in the grounds a little to ewa and mauka of the old palace, in which Kamehameha III, Kamehameha IV, and Kamehameha V resided, the Palace being used principally for state purposes. It was a dwelling place, provided with the simpler comforts of a citizen, and greatly enjoyed by the sovereigns. The "Bungalow," built later and used largely as a family residence by King Kalakaua, occupied a site ewa of "Hoihoikea," or between the Palace and Richards street. The "Bungalow" was razed a few years ago. COMMEMORATES INDEPENDENCE In the house "Hoihoikea" were transacted some of the most important affairs connected with the history of Hawaii and of the Hawaiian race. There lived and died Kamehameha III. Within its walls were held many important councils in the interests of the nation, its advancement and prosperity. The name "Hoihoikea" was applied in commemoration of the restoration of the sovereignty and independence of Hawaii by Admiral Thomas, 12 of the British Navy, on July 31, 1843. Durin the reign of Kamehameha V, Cabinet councils were frequently held there. There also was held the Council which was called the Constitutional Convention, the result of which was the abrogation of the Constitution of 1852, and the promulgation of a new one by Kameh ehaha V, immediately after his accession in 1863. There Kamehameha V died, the last of the Kamehamreha dynastry. 5Judge Kapena, in his address, referring to persons of national M icnisteoimportance w in the kingdom, saidl "The frequenters Kf these grounds ould reafily bri n see the mind's eye tle forms of Judd, t enan of paLee, Richards, Wyllie, Arm~~~~~~sof cautiron, Robertson andi Andrews, _ _thismresein their various positions as pubando __rlic servants and true rihends oft tlhe HawaiianL people, Even nowr one can bring to mind tlre countensances of the departed clniefs, R4It t.g'l 'j~irhti;Oll 5?r~c wt h strongly upheld the hands of pRolewoare nhow Wlving, i ot fist to e lon hi,a Mi istr oti reil ffair ther fooreign fellow counrcillors After Kaahumanu the Sercond comes Kekauluohi and John YIoung, and tnow I fanlcy XI can see corming up these paths witls hrm tread the stately forms of Paki and Kekuanaoa, Here also comes the jovial and pleasing countenance of Kapaalkea, than whom none excelled in the qualities of caution and modesty in giving advice to his King, exceeding in this respect his care for his owvn affairs, INow, before thIe mind's eye, te Stoopinrg form of John Ii; and amongst those who served and labored for the good of the country and the progress of the nation, we cannot forget Haallio, Keliiahonul, Namakaeha, Kaeo, andl Kanaina, Of the servants of tlihe government anId the people who are now livirng, it is not fitting to speak on this occasion, for the web of their history is not yet wovena, nor are their labors finished." 13 OlD ROYAL TOMB In the premises called "Pohukaina" was erected the tomb of the departed rulers and great chiefs, beginning with Kamehameha 1I. The bodies of the kings and queens, the great chiefs and chiefesses, were removed to the Royal Mausoleum, in Nuuanu Valley, during the niglt of October 30, 1865. In order that the spot where the tomb once stood might not be forgotten, a mound was raised, crowned with fers an d flowers. The Old 89 1824) t [olynestian January 13, 1 85T m a, f ou; wh ie an aco hnt of the funeral of King Ka mehamelha III, as fol lows: F"Tils is of Stone, nicely carpeted, and contains nine cofins of adult men ers, and three of te ~ are arhe of youthful nembers of the royal line; they are ranged on kIoa ral tmes at the e nothern (eta) sie of hte sepulc her, the ent ine a isel xllela 11 being onr the south (waikiki) On of 18t1 824) the easter (mauka) ide thr are five coffins; onb the estern (makal), four; while at the northern extremlity of the narrow passage are th e coffns of the thldren." oDr the royal tomb. Ouring the occupancy of Honolulu by the British in 1843, the records of the Hawaiian government were stored in the tomb. r Dr. G. P. Judd, Minister of the Interior and of Finance, occupied the tomb at night as an office, using the lid of the coffin of Queen Kaahumanu, the former Premier of the kingdom, as a desk. Gorham D. Gilman, an American resident of Honolulu in the forties of last century, whose reminiscences seventy years later were exceptionally clear, wrote in 1909 of the royal tomb as follows: "The tomb of the royal family, Liholiho and wife, Kaahumanu and Kinau, was a small structure built of coral, which stood alone, some way from the street, in the Palace grounds, on the right-hand side of the main drive (from King street in, and near King and Punchbowl street). At that time, 1842, it was quite a distance from the street. "As I remember, it had no window; hence any light inside could not be seen cn the outside. Thence Dr. (G. P.) Judd retreated in Lord George Paulet's reign of English rule over the Islands. The doctor was appointed one of the commission to act ad interim during the appeal to the British home government. The loyal doctor scon found his position most uncongenial politically, socially and morally, and resigned the office. His noble work in the tomb keeping the public archives secure is a matter of history." A historian described the old royal tomb in the Honolulu Advertiser, January 26, 1927, as follows: "Directly in front of the Archives building in Palace square, Honolulu, is a circular, grassy mound hedged with hibiscus. At or near that mound was situated the royal tomb of the Kamehamehas from about 1825 to 1865. Thomas G. Thrum told me recently that he had an idea that the royal tomb had been located some few yards ewa-direction from the present mound, and nearer the present Palace. At any rate, in that tomb were placed the remains of many famous persons. Here it was that Dr. G. P. Judd concealed the national archives from Lord George Paulet in 1843. It is an historic spot and the visitor to our fair city should be helped in some way to recognize it and know its ctory." An early historian said: "Thirteen years before [in 1839] Commodore Charles Wilkes (U. S. N.) arrived at Honolulu. Governor Kekuanaoa placed at his disposal the large stone house belonging to Kekau 15 luohi, in the square where this royal tomb was situated. At that time the tomb was undergoing repairs, and the colfins had been deposited in the house assigned to Commodore Wilkes. The Governor had them at once removed to the tomb, and in two days the commodore was confortably established." Being interested in the final earthly resting place of that courageous American, William Richards, beloved of the Haw aiian uiries government, der the Queen Kamamalu +. + nsort f Kamelomeha inforr n eceiedon of the Mn ste farhe is tlsat supplied by Mrs. Judd in her "Honolulu," whirh states 1847terior, ansferr on the consh "wa containing the mortal r emains of the k ings and high chiefs of arriied to the royal tomu twith militaroyal mary honors at the Kiere ames eha II, Kama, (Kamehamea I, ) request."IV Kinam A. Paki, Dr. T. C. B. Rooke (adopted ' *father of Queen Emma"), Jane Young (daughter of Jo h n Young). and others. But the desripIt is thquie e apoarent tat t he of /illiam Ri~ards. Well infornmed persons have expressed bel that unrecrds oo noer thdule mothat re iof th On October 31. 1865, the Hawaiian government, undr tlse Consort of Kasnelsseha it direction of the Minister of the Interior, transferred the coffins oln rtill rest the oortal reais of is rand high chiefs of Haaion fo the rmyal thos in thla e Pa ronds ReLe state royal mausoleumr i s an o iunValley. Among thtese were Karnehameha II, Kamamnalu, Kamehlamehsa III, Karoelhamneha IV, Kinan, A. Paki, Dr. T. C. B. Rooke (adopted "father of Queen Emmna"), Jane Young (daughter of John Young), and others, But the description of the events does not mention the remains of William Richards, Well-informed persons have expressedr belief that under or near the mround that marks tihe site of the old royal tomb there still rest the bones of several sigh chiefs, and among them tmay be those of Willam Richards, Residents state that today there is no cavity under or near that grassy ground. 16 In the early forties of last century, a writer, awed by the presence of the royal dead, described the first tomb as follows: "But of all the places set apart for the reception of the dead in the Hawaiian capital, not one is so interesting as the Royal Tomb. It is situated immediately contiguous to the Palace grounds. The tomb is composed of a single chamber, eighteen feet by fourteen in the interior. Its walls are of massive coral, and about ten feet high; the whole is inclosed by a high and heavy wall of the same material. Close around the coral inclosure is a rapidly maturing grove of noble shade trees, and among them the gentle breezes that come in from the ocean seem to hymn forth a requiem for departed monarchs. But let us enter this abode of defunct royalty. "A portly, good-looking native produces a large key; he is keeper of this sacred repository. The bolt obeys his effort, and the heavy door swings back on its rusty hinges. A collection of emblazoned coffins at once meets your gaze. They are covered with purple satin and silk velvet of the same color, and rest one above another on neatly made frames of koa (Acacia falcata). "The grave of Kamehameha, the conqueror, remains a profound secret unto this day; but these members of the royal dead have been placed here since the beginning of 1825, according to the mode adopted by some modern nations. Their coffins are most scrupulously arranged, and they convey an idea of profound regard for the inviolate sanctity of their individual repose. Of this congregation of deceased royalty, I had never seen one while living; and yet, standing as I did among their lifeless dust, an inexpressible sadness, mingled with a sense of awe, crept over me, and seemed to chain me to the spot on which I stood. There they lay, a few dusky monarchs and some of their descendants. They had swayed the sceptre of absolute despotism before I drew my first breath, and some of them had seen human blood flow from the mangled and quivering limbs of victims laid on the altars of their old gods. At that moment, and amid such hellish orgies, they little thought of the place of their repose; they cared little as to its locality; and much less did they think that a rambler from a distant land would stand and reflect upon their deeds as they 17 lay stretched in their winding-sheets. But what of that? Alleverything! They were veritable human beings. They did once think and act; but now every one of them had gone to 'that bourne whence no traveler returns.' Some of them had gone that long journey in the blackest gloom of paganism; others, under the light and influence of a divine revelation. "The first royal dead interred there were Liholiho, or Kamehameha II, and his consort, Kamamalu. They both died of measles, in July, 1824, during a visit to London (England). The British government generously sent a frigate, under the command of Lord Byron, relative of the poet, to convey their remains back to their native islands. When they bade farewell to the group as they started for England, they seemed to have an impression that they might never return. The young queen, as she left the shore, poured out her full soul into wailing, and exclaimed: 'O heaven, earth, mountains, ocean, guardians, subjects, love to you all! O land, for which my father bled, receive the assurance of my earnest love!' "The young king was much affected; but, as he struggled against his feelings, he ordered his chiefs and people to pay every regard to the instructions of their Christian teachers, and to use every exertion toward their own mtntal improvement. The vessel stood out to sea, and was soon lost from the gaze of the weeping multitude, for they loved their sovereign. But they saw him no more, except as an encoffined corpse! The remains of the royal pair are deposited in this tomb. The inscription on the king's breast-plate is strikingly characteristric of the filial attachment of the Hawaiian people: (a A(I { i r( o IIX ng II(Ii(ua ).( I't I srl et if <1 ) KAMEHAMEHA II KAMEHAMIEIHA II Elii no nahina o awahai King of the Sandwich Islands, make I. Pelekani 28 Died July 14th, 1824, Makaiki Kaiku in te I Ke maloi mniua I Ke maloki mua 2S8th year of his age. 0 Kemokakai 1824 Aloha Ino May we remenmber no Komakou Elii our beloved King Iolani. lolani. 18 "But the most conspicuous of these coffins was that which contained the remains of the great and good Kaahumanu, the favorite wife of the old Conqueror. It was of immense proportions, for the Regent was a woman immensely large. But her vast physical bulk was a good emblem of the imperious tone of her character when a pagan queen, and of her Christian deportment when a follower of the Nazarene. Never was there a greater change produced in a human being; never was a death scene more happy than her own. Although, in that final hour, she was surrounded by no courtiers whose drapery dazzled by its Oriental magnificence, her language and deportment would have adorned the brightest page in the long catalogue of Christian heroes. Precious in the sight of heaven is the dust of that once imperious queen. "Before treading the precincts of her remains, I had seen some of the finely executed monuments of the distinguished of our race; but I never felt so subdued, so mortal, as then; I never obtained a clearer view of the end of all earthly power and glory than by the side of that coffin. I thought of the great Saladin, who caused to be carried before him, when being conveyed to the grave, his shirt (!), as all that remained of the once mighty ruler. And I remembered the immortal Cyrus, his wars, palaces and wealth, and the words composing the epitaph of the great warrior came back to my memory as vividly as if they had been written in letters of fire before my eyes: 'O man! whosoever thou art, and whensoever thou comest (for come I know thou wilt), I am Cyrus, the founder of the Persian Empire. Envy me not the little earth that covers my body!'" MANY PALACES BUILT Another house, "Ihikapukalani," stood in the palace grounds, erected by Kamehameha IV for his consort, Queen Emma, where they spent most of the time during their reign. The northern (ewa-mauka) corner of these premises, connecting Richards street with old Palace walk (now Hotel street), belonged to the Sumner family, and was purchased to complete the square form of the grounds. 19 Honolulu, as a principal port in the islands, with a safe anchorage, was a favorite port of call in the Islands for warships of various nations after 1825. It was necessary to have a palace for the King during his brief visits, and a thatched building was erected south of the old Honolulu fort, in the vicinity of what are now Piers 7, 8, 9, 10 and 1 1, at Fort and Allen streets. Commodore Downes (U. S. N.), who visited Honolulu in the frigate "Potomac," in 1832, describes the Palace and its interior as being furnished in European style. Upon the walls were several oil portraits, one of King William of Prussia and another of Field Marshal Blucher, both presented in 1830 by the former to Kamehameha III. Also a large framed copy of the Declaration of Independence attracted attention. At the old fort was built the structure named "Mauna Kilika," about 1840, where the first constitution was prepared; where Parliament convened, and the land commission carried on its complex work of dividing the lands originally the fee of the sovereign, and now divided into three parts, one for the King, one for the chiefs, one for the people. It was also called the Armory. It was there that Governor Kekuanoa had his office, where he presided at trials, and carried on the affairs of the government, a building which saw its last real service when the marines of the French warships "F'cursuivante" and "Gassendi" in 1849 wrecked the fort and its ancient guns, one of which was manufactured in 1 600 and was used in the service of the armies of the Louis of France and finally of Napoleon in Egypt. In the palace (of 1846-1878) which preceded the present structure, was placed a full-length portrait of Louis Philippe, King of France, presented by that ruler to Kamehameha III. It was brought to Honolulu in 1848 on the French corvette "Sarcelle" and landed and installed with great pomp and ceremony, the King receiving it in person, while French marines and Hawaiian guardsmen were drawn up and a band played. The portrait now adorns the old throne room, the present House of Representatives. The portraits of King William and Marshal Blucher, of Prussia, presented to Kamehameha III in 1 830, also adorn the executive building. 20 Gorham D. Gilman, in his "Reminiscences of Early Honolulu," referrin t tohe forties and fifties of last century, describes the palace and grounds as follows: "We now come to the square occupied by the Palace. This building was built of coral with a high basement and one story, high-studded and sloping roof with a large lookout room on top, It was divided into a large all through the center, a large reception or throne room n the 3righte, with two rooms on the left. It was mainly used for puhir purposes, the ing preferring front e ntan ce o the quipet quarters of the cottages verandal^ t o in the yard, where hel lived according to his chosen Hawaiian style. Sme very brilliant recepof His M _ i laje" s s tions wvere IlTol there (Palace) to which the public was generally asert a mha I incrvited, with all tihe official alnd (1825-1864) deistinguished guests who happered in town. Passing to the front entrance of the Palace, up the broad steps of the wid veranda to the brilliantly lighted rooms, we found a large company gathered In a short time t a nounc he the arrival of Hs Majest y and presentations hegan. iThese ere made 1by officers of the court, dressed in full uniform, and wth great formality. KAMEHAMEfIA III AND His 1s PALACE During the reign of Kamehaneha III (1825-1854) a vriter described the Palace and King as follows: "Let us pay a visit to the abode of the Hawaiian King, Kamehameha II. It is designated the 'Palace.' To a person who has ever visited any of the abodes of European sovereigns, such a term would at once convey an idea of regal magnificence; but the residence of the Hawaiian monarch produces nothing that is, 21 4 superfluous, or even splendid. On the contrary, everything about it is plain, even to plebeianism, and induces a visitor to think that he may be treading the apartments of a chief rather than the palace of a sovereign. "The grounds on which it stands cover between two and three acres, and are inclosed with a heavy wall of rough coral. A visitor enters on the south side, between lodges occupied by sleepy sentinels. A small but beautiful grove of trees wave their stately foliage on either side of the path leading up to the royal apartments, and their cool shade reminds one of the groves of the Academy and the Lyceum, where so many of the old masters read, studied and rambled. A few steps bring you in front of the palace proper. It has a very simple, rustic appearance. The walls are composed of coral procured from the reefs along the shore of the harbor. The ground-plan covers an area of 74 feet by 44. "The building is a story and a half high. A noble piazza, eight or ten feet wide, and raised a few feet above the ground, entirely surrounds the building. The chief apartment is the one in which the King holds his levees. In the centre of the eastern wall of the apartment stood the chair of state. Its unpretending aspect led me to invest it rather with republican simplicity than monarchical aristocracy. "Several well-executed paintings hung on the walls. They represented the then ruling monarch, Kamehameha III; Liholiho, or Kamehameha II; Kekauluohi, the late Premier; and a fulllength portrait of Louis Philippe, King of the French. On a large centre-table were arranged several diminutive but exceedingly fine pieces of statuary, presents from the King of Denmark. "On the right of the main building, in a detached form, stood the private apartments of the monarch; on the left, those of his queen. They were framed buildings, sustained on basements, having walls of coral, and looking very much like rural cottages erected for the mere object of economy. "Such is the residence of the Hawaiian monarch! But, plain as it is, it is invested with a splendor to which Kamehameha the 22 Great was an utter stranger, for his palace was a house thatched all around with grass! Around the abode of the present King there are no haughty nobles to dart their withering glances at the stranger; no bristling bayonets to ward off the lover of the curious or the ancient. Everything is calm and serene. It is just such a place as European sovereigns, when the cares of empire oppress them, may sigh after, and never obtain. Without doubt, the Sandwich Island King is infinitely happier than Nicholas of Russia, surrounded as he e is by his mighty artmies, his immense navy, his glittering sycophants, and his gorgeous capital. *Hlaving hastily sketched the Palace of the Hawaiian King, let us glance at the monarch himt self. In personal appearance he is tall, robust, and well formed. He is rather more than forty years of age, but begins to look Queen Kalama prematurely old. In his more consort of Kametalmehtsa III youthful years he possessed great strength and activity, and wvas well skilled in every athletic and manly exercise. His appearance is quite prepossessing, for the very genius of good-nature seems to dwell in his countenance. He is amiable, but, at the present time, almost entirely deficient in those virtues that would render him a distinguished warrior-king. On meeting him in the street, such is his mien and dress that, were it not for the deference paid to him by all classes, a stranger could net recognize him as a king. He acter.'" 23 ALIOLANt HALE In 1871 the movement for a new palace to house the ruler of Hawaii in a manner befitting the growing importance of the Islands was launched. Plans were drawn by an Australian architect, which were elaborate for that day, but designed to give ample yacccmmodations for tate and private apartments. This buildIng was erected and designated as the Government Building, h IVI 'f,: BRwhere the departments were to be * ", *~ a nd established and the Legislature to holed it sJessions. Aliiolani Hale was never used as a royal AI~. Aliiolani Hale, which was yhe kingd om" an n! it as acommenced in March, 172, d luring the reign of Kamehameha Kxamps e o rrk ansi p I V, as the Government House, ent styled the Judiciary Building of the Territory), was de igned tc hous the important offices of the ingdom, and in it was a chamber for the legislature, both houses sitting in the same hall. Robert Stirling, superintendent of public works, supervised construction. The buildidng, accrdn to pr esent-day architects, is a splendid example of workmanship, and the desig savors of uropeanarchitecture with a "palace" effect, The cost was $130,000. It hhoued the loffices of the inister of Foreign Affairs, iiste of inanrce, Minisr of Interior, Attorfney-General, the Suree Court, Governor of Oahu, Marshal of the Kingdom, Department of Public Instruction, and the Tax Office. The ground floor w~as devoted to the ministerial offices and the legislative hall, the Foreign Office being in the upper story. The legislative chamber, which occupied the waikiki end of the structure, was also used as a court room during the sessions of the supreme court. 24 On January 17, 1893, the representatives of the new Provisional Government entered Aliiolani Hale and demanded the surrender of the Foreign Office and other offices, which were peacably turned over o them, thereby terminating the monarchy and Queen Liliokalani's reign. For a few months the Provisional Government functioned in Aliiolani Hale, and on June 2 transfer was made to the former Palace, and liiolani Hale was designated as the Court House. At present it houses the Supreme and Circuit Courts, Laour, an urt, Bureau of Conveyances, and the Law Library. On the walls of the old legislative hall were several interestirg portraits, mrany of which were transferred after the fall of the monarchy to the palace, and now adorn the throne room and the hallway in the second story. The portraits in colors were: W. L. Lee, first chief justice of the kingdom, 1848 to 1857; G. M. Robertson, associate u st i e, csief u ace, 1857 to 1877; Charles Coffin Harris, chief jus6!cet 1877 to 1881 and the Hgh Chaef Charles iiukalani), these remain in thi e pr se Ft Su oid bsu ldring, witr the except ion of that of Charles Kana ma Other portraits, of royalty, were removed to the a ace, Kas flows: K ing Kalaka, Queen Kapiolani Princess Laliuokialarni (afteraards Queen Liliuokalani), Q Prrnctess Likelike (sister of Lii- onesrt n aneamha V uokalani), Kamehameha f, Kamahamoha II, Queen K}amatalu, Kamehameha V, and Queen Kalama, wife of Kamehameha III. In Aliiolani Hale was also established the first national museum, ewherein was gathered a collection of rare Hawaiian relics, the 25 precursor of the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum of Polynesian Ethnology and Natural History, the foremost Polynesian museum in the world. In the same yard is the Kapuaiwa building, named in honor of Kamehameha V, in which are e offices of the Health Department. Near these buildings is the new terr styorial office oilding, cost187-1891g neary 12,alf a million1874, the funds ofeing appropriaed by the legislature of 1925. Many deBaker, a b r of par tment offices were transferrie Constructionm th Paace to tsupervision of Robert Sti r ling, Sup iof Works. O n December, 1926, 1879, theaving olaThe Palace eisxclusively oin The Pacific Advertiser, /"The ~ m cupancy of the overnor, Se retary of there iser a toer at torneywers a enot part of Gene al, and the Legisature. PALACE OF KALAKAUA David Kalakaua, elected Kinlg Katkl ana~Klling under tlhe style of Kalakalla (1874-1tu) I, on February 12, 1874, urged tlhe naeed of a more appropriate structure for a palace. In March, 1879, the Minister of the Interior asked for plans for a palace, and in Decembser, T7. J. Baker, a huilder of note at that timre, was appoinrted architect. Construction came under the supervision of Rohert Stirling, Superintendent of Public Works. Onr December 31, 1879, the corner stone was laid, officers of the U J. S. S. "Lackwuanna" being present., Thei Palace is descrihed in Th e Pacific Commlercial Advertiser, Septemhber 24, 1881, as follows: IThLe main body oft the new Palace forrms a substantial rectangular mansion. There is a tower at each corner, hut these towers are not part of the mnain huilding; they flanrk the wide veran dahs and balconies of the Palace which, but for these interruptions, would run all round it. Over the main entrance, in the middle of the front elevation, rises another tower of greater dimension3, and this feature of the design is repeated at the back. Like the corner towers, these central ones stand out from the main mass of the building, their two lower stories being parts of the verandah and balcony respectively. 'This feature of the design might be expected to give to the building a more imposing appearance than the actual dimensions of the main part of it (which are about 80 feet x 120 feet) would warrant, but, in point of fact, such is not the case, and as seen from a short distance, the Palace does not look so large as it really is. There is a promise that our Sovereign will be provided with apartments suitable for the reception of the distinguished personages he is from time to time called upon to entertain, and with a residence suitable to his position and dignity. "The design of the exterior of the building cannot be described in a few words or referred to any recognized order of architecture. If a name is to be coined for it we should favor 'American Florentine' as the nearest approach to a correct one. The facade of the front is in two stories, 140 feet long and 54 high, with a tower, as already described, in the centre, and one at each end. Each tower is capped by a square campanile having the concave outlines so common in the Italian architecture of the later Middle Ages; and the central tower having a third story rises to the height of 80 feet. The columns which flank the main entrance, and those in the verandah and balcony, are of the Corinthian order. "Entering the building, we find ourselves in a large hall, whose dimensions are 28 feet x 70 feet. A staircase 6 feet wide breaks the hall at about 34 feet from the entrance. This returns by two flights each four feet wide. "On the right hand of the hall is the throne-room. This handsome apartment is 40 feet x 70 feet in dimensions. This space 27 is, however, reduced by a screen placed behind the throne, forming there an ante-room about 8 feet wide. As the floor above the throne-room has to carry a partition wall, the original design of the ceiling was departed from to admit of the insertion. This change has added to the beauty of the ceiling without in any way detracting from the appearance of the room in the matter of height. The ceiling has been divided into six panels, the mouldings and centerpieces of which are extremely beautiful. The throne and the screen behind it present op-. portunities for the wood carver's Col. Edward which ill not e neglect d "On the left-hand side of the it. p for i ts~ ali i the dining rooe an ap lt~ffi r gi F ment 32 feet x 4 feet. Anoth"Thr room can be thrown o thor by sliding back the large doors side ~ of; between th em. The s aller room, which lies to the iront ot on t he Palace, is 25 feet x 32 feet nd will be used ei2her 8 a driawing-room or as an an te-room. The dinling-room is a strikingly is a n drsome well - proportioned room, but its appearance is somlwhat marred by a series of ventilators inserted in the wall below the corniees. Col. Edwar Boyrt "The staircase when complet(5Chf amfsi 5 e jtai tred wil present a handsome appearance, the massiveness of the balustrade, and other details of its finish, malking up for its narrowness. The hall abtove, Iess broken than that below the Stairway, presentsi a floor 28 feet x 50 feet. "The apartments of the King and lQueen occupy the rear or 0miaukla side of thie Palace on tlhis floor. The King's room, which is o-n the ewva side, is 25 feet X 30, vith dressing room, bathroom, 28 etc., opening from it. Adjoining is the library, designed to be used as a Privy Council Chamber, an apartment 22 feet x 30 feet. The front room on the same side of the building is of similar size, and goes by the name of the music-room. "The Queen's apartment is the same size as His Majesty's, and there are on the same side of the building two guest chambers of about 23 feet x 30 feet. The rooms in the corner towers form agreeable additions to the apartments with which they comunicate, being entered directly from them. They are each 12 feet x 12 feet, having doors leading on to the balconies on either hand and large windows in the outer walls. "His Majesty will have direct telephonic communication with the Queen's apartments, and with the Chamberlain's room, besides being connected with the general system of the city. "The Chamberlain's apartments occupy one corner in the basement. Another is understood to be set apart for His Majesty's workshop and laboratory; a third is intended for a billiard room, but will not serve that purpose very well, except at night. The kitchen is in the middle of the building and is to be fitted with every convenience. "The erection of the new Palace will necessitate a rearrangement of the grounds in which it stands. No design for this was, so far as we are aware, determined upon before His Majesty's departure for Europe Queen Kaoptass I I 8811 ]. This matter, which Cnsrt f Katakaa ought not to be long delayed now, will no doubt be promptly taken in hand when the King returns." 29 5 INCIDENTS OF THE PALACE On February 12, 1883, the formal coronation of King Kalakaua and Queen Kapiolani was held at the Palace with appropriate pomp, the ceremony taking place in an ornate pavilion erected in front of the King street steps. Plenipotentiaries from the principal countries of the world were present. Kalakaua placed upon his own head a beautiful crown, made in London. He then placed a similar crown upon the head of his consort, Queen Aissolant Hale, now the Judiciary Builtling Kapiolani. They cost about $10,000, and were thickly encrusted with jewels. The crown of Kalakaua is now on view in the Archives of Hawaii building, and that of Kapiolani in the Bishop Museum. The King's crown was despoiled in 1893, and the gems scatered. It was restored in 1925, and possesses its original glory. The pavilion was later moved towards Richards street, and has been used for years as a bandstand. In July, 1887, following a meeting of citizens and the passing of resolutions, King Kalakaua signed a new constitution in the Palace which placed responsibility for the conduct of the government with the Cabinet instead of with the ruler. It was one of the important steps toward a more liberal type of government. In July, 1889, a revolution, led by Robert W. Wilcox, a part30 Hawaiian, who had been educated by the Hawaiian government in the artillery school of Turin, Italy, had for its objective the possession of tile Palace. The plot failed, the Palace being held by Capt. Robert Waipa Parker, with a small force of the King's Guard. The revolutionists took possession of the "Bungalow," a frame building used as a palace when the new structure was under construction. The palace grounds were surrounded by armed citizens and within twelve hours the revolutionists surrendered, The oil portrait of Louis Philippe, King of France, in the throne room, was riddled with bullets fired by sharpshooters stationed in the tower of Kawaiahao Church. They were citizens defending tolansi Palace, August 12, 1898, when American Flag was raised during ainnexation cerelelony. the government's interests, and, strangely enough, King Kalakaua, it is said, was seretly in harmony with Wilcox's plot. If su cessful, he would have abrogated the constitution of 1887 and promulgated a new one, which would have restored to him the personal and sovereign prerogatives formerly held by him. On February 15, 1891, the funeral ceremonies for King Kalakaua, who died in San Francisco on January 20, 1891, and whose body lay in state in the throne room, took place. It was an imposing funeral, attended by representatives of foreign nations, officers and bluejackets and marines of visiting warships, the grief-stricken consort, and other members of the royal family. 31 The body was brought to Honolulu on the U. S. cruiser "Charleston," arriving on January 29. From January 14 to 17, 1893, occurred the incidents which resulted in the overthrow of the monarchy. On January 14, Queen Liliuokalani proposed to promulgate a new constitution, abrogating that signed by King Kalakaua in 1887. The Queen's constitution would have given the ruler greater power and increased personal prerogatives. Citizens immediately formed committees, held mass meetings, and determinedly opposed her plan. On January 14, shortly after she had prorogued the legislature, the Queen personally appeared at the iron railing of the second story balcony of the Palace, before a large assemblage of her people gathered in front of the King street steps, and appealed to her race to stand steadfast with her in her demand for the new constitution. That was her last public appearance as queen before her subjects. On January 17, 1893, the crisis came. The issue was forced when a shot was fired downtown. In the afternoon the representatives of the Provisional Government issued a proclamation from the entrance to Aliiolani Hale, announcing the deposition of the queen and the abrogation of the monarchy. Aliiolani Hale and the Palace were taken by the Provisional Government, of which Sanford B. Dole, former associate justice of the supreme court of Hawaii, was chosen President. The former queen retired to her private residence, Washington Place. On June 2, 1893, the Executive Council designated the Palace as the "Executive Building," and in it established the offices of the Provisional Government. THE REPUBLIC OF HAWAII The official records on file in the Archives of Hawaii, note the change as follows: "Friday, June 2. "The executive and advisory councils met at 3 o'clock. "There were present Ministers Dole, Smith, Damon and King; Councilmen Wilder, Morgan, Nott, Tenney, Hatch, Emmeluth, Brown, McChesney, Waterhouse, Allen, Bolte and Suhr. 32 "On the recommendation of the executive, Mr. Hatch introduced the following resolution, which was unanimously passed: "Resolved: The offices of the executive council shall be in lolani Falace, which shall hereafter be the seat of government and shall be known as the executive building. "Meetings of the advisory and executive councils shall be held in the executive building. "Aliiolani Hale shall hereafter be known as the Court House." FROM ROYALTY TO DEMOCRACY The Pacific Commercial Advertiser on June 3, 1893, published the following story of the change from a royal to a republican building, the headlines being as follows: "THE MONARCHY BECOMES A THING OF THE PAST" "THE NEW EXECUTIVE BUILDING IS REFURBISHED AND ALLOTTED FOR THE WORK OF THE STATE." "The troops from the barracks who had moved in the previous day, had hardly time to settle themselves in shape in their permanent abode in the basement of the new executive building, before the exodus from the former government building to that place began. "The minister of the interior will make himself at home in the large dining room on the ewa side, which has also been put in shape to be made useful to the taxpayers. With the exception of the old throne room, this is the only one large enough to accommodate the interior department. "The minister of foreign affairs and president of the executive will climb the grand staircase and take possession of the two rooms on the ewa side, formerly occupied as the bed chamber and library of the last King of Hawaii. The rooms were in a happy state of confusion yesterday when visited, and the workmen were busy removing and arranging books and tables for the new occupants. 33 "The attorney-general's department will be situated in the large bed chamber in front of the foreign office, but the business and law office of the department will be situated in the court house (old government building) across the way in the room now occupied by Judges Whiting and Cooper. "The old throne room was being arranged for the council chamber, and the executive and advisory councils will hold their sesPresident Dole and Mlilitary Staff sions there hereafter. The fine room will be well furnished and whenever the occasion arises will be used for public receptions, audiences, etc. "In the basement of the bilding the regular troops are domiriled. The kitchens were in full blast when the Advertiser reporter visited the new quarters yesterday, and the long tables were being laid for the approaching meal in the wide hall The men not on duty were taking it easy in their cosy apartments on each side of the main hallway. In the ewa end of the basement is the military headquarters, Colonel Soper was found at his table i the mauka room. Paymaster McLeod was busy at a long table paying off the men, and everyth ing seemed to be running like clock-work. 34 "The most of the furniture in the bungalow has been removed, and it is now being prepared for a headquarters for the 3taff officers of the volunteer forces, but will need a general clraning up before it is fit for occupancy. "The old carved table, upon which the bodies of the Kamehamehas were laid out after death, was seen standing in the walk on the ewa side of the building. It was tabu to the natives around the premises, and none of them would go near it or touch it. They did not seem to have the same fear of the tabu lately laid upon Kalakana Lying ir State Queen Kapiolari kneeling at the bier, 'the ex-queen's palace' by the kahunas to keep the haoles out, and after the military had taken formal possession of it (fortyeight hours ago) showed no hesitancy in going to work anywlere in the building were a job could be secured." On June 6, 1893, the Advertiser noted the occupancy by the new officials as follows: PRESIDENT SUPERSEDES SOVEREIGN "An Advertiser reporter called at the executive building yesterday morning after the ministers were fairly settled in their new quarters. Meeting MIinister Damon at the main entrance, the re 35 porter visited the finance office with him first. The large safes were placed in each end of the office. The minister's desk was in the center, next to the large folding doors. "In the makai end of the interior office, Minister King has his private ofice separated fromr the chief clerk by screens. "President Dole and staff occupy the two maukf rooms upstairs in the ewa end of the building. When the reporter entered, President Dole was busy arranging his books and papers. ralakata's staff. Left to right: Col. James H. Boyd, Col, H. F. tlertelman, Col. James W. Robertson (Chamberlain), and Col. Johs D. Holt (sittinLg). With another gentleman present, the three sat down to the late king's round table, which will he hereafter used for the deliberations of cabinet meetings, Festive kings and queens in pairs and lone jacks and jack-pots wvill hereafter not be in it, and the dinity of the ne i shall in some degree atone for the rolieking neglect of the old. "Passing across the wide hallway, the apartments of the attorney-eneral and his deputy were entered. They are situated mnauka in the waikiki end of the building." 36 On August 12, 1898, the formal ceremony of the transfer of the government of the Republic of t Hawaii to the United States of America was held on the front (King street) steps of the palace. President Dole, on behalf of the Republic of Hawaii, transferred the sovereignty of the Republic to the United States through Honorable Harold M. Sewall, United States Minister to Hawaii. The Hawaiian flag was lowered from the fagstaff over the central tower facing King street, and the American flag raised. Bluejackets and marines from the U. S S S. "Philadelphia" were present. On June 14, 1900, the Republic of Hawaii ceased, and the Territory of Hawaii began to function with President Dole, appointed by President McKinley, as the first territorial goernor. The room to the right of the central hall is now the House of Representatives chamber. It was formerly the throne room of the kingdom. The funeral obse*ques, not only of King Kalakaua, but of other members of the royal family, including Princess Kaiulani, Prince David Kawia- lnanakosa, Queenr LiliuoEka lani, Q 6Queelt I.llinokalanl Prince Jonah Kuhio Kalanianaole, and Prince Albert Kunuiakea, had been held there; and also those for Sanford B. Dole, who died on June 9, 1926. The room is still used for occasions of state. QUEEN'S PeRISON CtlAMBtE In 1893, followving tlhe royalist uprising on January 6, in an abortive attempt to restore Queen Liliuokalani to the throne, the military court of the Republic of Hawaii held its sessions in the throne room. Within it, Liliuokalani, who was arrested at Wash-h 37 ington Place on January 16, was tried on a charge of misprision of treason, the accusation being confirmed by the court. The queen was sentenced to pay a fine of $5,000, and to imprisonment for one year, her prison chamber being designated as the room in the second story of the Palace at the waikiki-makai corner, formerly a royal bedchamber, in which she spent nine months, her only companion being a loyal Hawaiian woman. In the monarchy period the throne room was used for formal receptions, balls, levees and presentations, the etiquette of the Court of St. James being punctiliously observed. On the opposite side of the central hall is the Senate Chamber, formerly the state dining room. The small chamber adjoining it was formerly a small reception room, known as the Blue Room, where the royal aides-de-camp greeted visitors. This room is now devoted to committee-room service of the Senate. Until the occupancy of the new territorial office building in 1926, the rooms in the basement used by the Department of Public Works, Land Office, Geological Survey, Hawaiian Homes Commission and Farm Loan Board, were originally the offices of the Royal Chamberlain and assistant, the royal kitchen and corresponding service rooms. The second story of the Palace was devoted to the private apartments of the sovereign and family. King Kalakaua's bedchamber, and later (1891 to 1893) the apartment of Queen Liliuokalani, is now the office of the Governor of Hawaii. From 1893 to 1900 it was the office of the Minister of Foreign Affairs. The office adjoining, occupied by the Governor's secretary, was the cabinet meeting room. The office of the Secretary of Hawaii was the royal music room, also known as the Gold Room. This was also the office of President Dole. The small corner verandah room was the private office of the President, who often slept there. The rooms on the opposite side of the hall were bedrooms, occupied at various times by Queen Kapiolani, consort of King Kalakaua, Princess Poomaikalani, and Princess Kinoole. Only two of Hawaii's monarchs held royal court in the new lolani Palace-King Kalakaua and Queen Liluokalani. The 38 walls of the throne room are enriched with oil portraits of all the sovereigns of Hawaii, from Kamehameha I to Liliuokalani. In the central hallways and in the senate chamber are portraits of chiefs and chiefesses, Queen Kalama, consort of Kamehameha III, High Chiefess Kekauluohi, Premier, mother of King Lunalilo, Admiral Thomas, Royal Navy, Lord Beaconsfield, William Gladstone, Alexander II of Russia, Napoleon III of France, President Dole, Princess Likelike and her daughter, Princess Kaiulani, High Chief Charles Kanaina, High Chief A. Haalelea, Kamehameha III as a youth. The wide hallway in the second stoy was used as a royal breakfast room and sitting room. The woodwork throughout the building is principally from Hawaiian forests, exquisitely polished. Koa, kou and ohia are in evidence throughout. The old royal Hawaiian coat-of-arms, together with gilded spears and other marks of the olden days, still adorn the interior of the palace. Most of the furniture and furnishings of the royal regime have been removed, some of it, including the throne C Col. C. 11. Jtldd3 chair, being on display in the Bishop (IlChaberlain Museum. THE ROYAL GATEWAYS There are rare and treasured associations connected with the four main gates piercing the walls surrounding the grounds. Each gate has its own Hawaiian name. Until 1889 a high, solid wall surrounded the grounds. This was lowered and then topped with the present iron fence. At each gate were sentry boxes and soldiers always on guard. Wives of soldiers on night duty at the gates, often slept near by on mats. The King street gate was known in the past as the "Kauikeaouli Gate." The Hawaiians never spoke of the "King street gate" or "Hotel street gate," etc. Each had its familiar Hawaiian 39 designation. The "Kauikeaouli Gate" was named in honor of Kamehameha III, during whose reign the Hawaiian monarchy expanded into a more important and independent sovereignty, and was graced during the latter part of his reign by a palace, the predecessor of the present structure. The "Kauikeaouli Gate" was restricted to the use of the royal family, cabinet ministers and high officials of foreign countries, and army and navy officers when making official calls, and on state occasions and at other public functions. The gate, also, was thrown open only on such occasions as when balls and leveways ere given aturally the Place l~Pr ~i nce 2 it is said that one of ithe uses to lonch the circular mirrors which the Premier, z adorn the palace walls, especI all as lset apathose folankr thee emain pteal o _ ofi e r o y was for staff ofices to note yPa ilar c ite s sreflection jou. t who migh be aps "Hroachinkaeeg fron te in oKaukeaomhli The "LikelikGsate" thereey tobviating the ri ned aethnecessity of staring down the driveway, and naturally they adPrince otf H1awaii justed collars, cravats and royal Sosn otf Kamehaneha tV decorations hy the mirrors. Te Richardsl stret gaate was named "Kinau," after Kinau, the Prenmier, and mother of Kings Kamehaxmeha IV and V. It was set apart for the use of the genleral pullic calling on members of the royal family or who had business to transact at the Palace. The Hotel street gate was named "Haliimaile," through which the oliuas (retainers), the Household Guards, and others in simnilar capacities passed in and out. It was also known as the "Hakaleleponi Gate" in honor of the cornsort of Kamehamneha III, Queen Kalama, Tlhe Likelike street gate wvas named "'Likelike" (said to have been rnamed after the Princess Likelike, sister of;King Kalakaua and Queen Lililuokallai), and vwas used as a private gate for the memthers of the royal family. The small gate on the Hotel street side, near Richards street, and seldom opened, was, according to Queen Liliuokalani, in a paragraph in her book, "Hawaii's Story by Hawaii's Queen," placed there largely for the benefit of Governor John Dominis, her husband, the governor of Oahu, owing to his dislike to appear at any other gate and required always to give the password or be subject to military salutes. It was also used, it is said, by King Kalakaua when he desired to leave the grounds without "fuss or feathers." RARE PAINTINGS IN THE PALACE Upon the walls of the throne room, senate chamber, the hallways and offices of the Palace are many oil portraits, enlarged photographs, and crayons of former rulers, princes, princesses, chiefs and chiefesses, executives of the Hawaiian Islands, and distinguished foreigners, many of historic value. They include: Kamehameha I, the Conqueror. There are two portraits, almost identical, showing him wearing his famous feather cloak. M. Choris, artist with the Kotzebue expedition in 1816, painted a portrait of Kamehameha, the king sitting for the likeness. The one in the throne room is said to be an early copy, in oils, of the original (1816), and the other, in the senate chamber, a copy painted about 1850. That in the throne room reveals the Conqueror wearing the famous red vest presented to Kamehameha by Vancouver in 1793, of which he was inordinately proud, wearing it on official occasions, as he regarded it as a symbol of rulership in common with King George III of England, to whom he had ceded the island of Hawaii in 1793, at a conference on board H. M. S. "Discovery." Vancouver's original letter concerning this transaction is on file in the Archives of Hawaii. Kamehameha II and his Queen, Kamamalu. Painted in London during their visit there in 1824. They died in London in July, 1824. Kamehameha III and his consort, Queen Kalama. Painted in Denmark about 1846, by Mr. Plum, artist who accompanied Captain Steen Bille, Danish Navy, who, during a visit to Honolulu in 1846 with his warship the "Galathea," executed a treaty 41 between the Hawaiian Islands and Denmark. The portraits were shipped from Denmark in December, 1846, and acknowledgment of their receipt was made by the Minister of Foreign Affairs. The frames were ordered from Boston in 1850. Kameharmelha IV. Portrait authorized for the Government by the Legislature of 1866, $1,000 being appropriated for the painting of the portraits of Kamehameha IV and Kamehamemha V. 1Koamehamehia V. Portrait r uth-;S:r~ I orized in connection with that of <s X, - 1Kamehamneha IV. -ll 3a I ~l. +Lunalilo. Portrait purchased fromn the estate of his father, Charles Kanaina, in 1882, for $100, He idied in Decenmber, 1873, KX ekauluohi, High Ch iefess, mother of Kng Lunalilo and wife of Kanaina. Purchased from Kanaina Estate in 1882, for $1 00, Kingc Ltuaallito Kekauluohi was Kuhina Nui (Pre(1873-1874) mier) of the Hawaiian kingdom from 1839 to 1845. This portrait was reproduced from an engraving which was made by A. T. Agate, artist with Commodore Charles Wilkes, United States Naval Exploring Expedition in the Pacific Ocean, 1838-1842. King David Kibakua,. Portrait painted by Wm. Cogswell, American artist, in the late eighties. It is almost life size and depicts the king in his uniform as commander-in-chief of the Hawaiian army. He died anuary 20, 1891. Queen Kapilolai, consort of King Kalakaua. Portrait painted by Charles Hasselmann, finished in August, 1884. She died in 1899, Queen Lifiuokalani, sister of King Kalakaua. Portrait painted by Wm. Cigswel. She reigned from 1891 to 1893, and died November 1I, 191t7 42 It is an interesting commentary regarding the portraits of Kalakaua and Liliuokalani, that until 1927, although they had remained undisturbed in the palace from the time they were placed there during the reign of the king, they were not the property of the Hawaiian Government. Ordered by Kalakaua, the portraits were painted by William Cogswell, a celebrated American artist. The King died in January, 1891. The artist requested payment of Liliuokalani, the king's sister. The receipt for the payment of the paintings, $3,000, was filed by Cogswell at Honolulu, and reads as follows: Honolulu, October 19, 1892. "Her Majesty, Liliuokalani, to Wm. Cogswell. "To full length portrait of His Late Majesty Kalakaua, including frame................... $1,500 "To full length portrait of Herself, with frame.. 1,500 $3,000 "Received payment. "(Signed) Wm. Cogswell. The next day the following letter was written: "Honolulu, Oct. 20, 1892. "Mr. Curtis Iaukea, Dear Sir: "I wish to present my regards to Her Majesty and thank her for the interest she has taken in the portraits. I have somewhat regretted letting them go at $3,000. Had I taken the second thought I certainly would not have sold them for less than $3,500. However, I am satisfied and hope the Queen will be also. "Very sincerely, yours, (signed) "Wm. Cogswell." Colonel Iaukea, referred to, was a distinguished officer in the service of both King Kalakaua and Queen Liliuokalani, serving as chamberlain for each. He was minister plenipotentiary and envoy extraordinary from Hawaii at the coronation of the Russian Czar in 1882, and was similarly accredited to all the royal courts of Europe that year; was chamberlain to Queen Kapiolani when she visited London in 1887, on the occasion of Queen Victoria's Jubilee, and again in 1897, was military aide to Hon. S. M. 43 Damon, envoy to London on the occasion of Victoria's Diamond Jubilee. He was military aide to President Dole when the later visited Washington, D. C., in January-February, 1897. In 1927 he was appointed by Governor Farrington as a member of the "Captain James Cook 150th Anniversary Committee." Early in 1927 the trustees of the Liliuokalani Trust, in view of the above receipt from Cogswell, formally transferred the portraits to the government of the Territory of Hawaii by filing the l C. i Cogswell receipt in the Archives of Hawaii.;'On April 14, 1927 t the legislature passed a concurrent resolution, accepting the pore to b n th e r o htraits, expressing the sentiment that by remaining in the throne room the rtraits would add to "the gracious memory of Queen Liluiukalanm" Queen Emma, consort of Kamehameha IV. This painting (Colt C. P. laukea, was in possession of the KapioCharmlberlain1 am rlani Estate. Presented to the Government, through Governor Sanford B. Dole, in July, 1902, to be placed in the throne room. She died in 1885, Charles Kaninai, father of King Lunalilo. Associate justice of the supreme court in 1842, and a member of the House of Nobles from 1845 to 1876. King William I of Prussia and Field Marshal Blucher Pre sented by the former to King Kamehameha III in 1830, the portraits being accompanied by a personally inscribed letter on parchment (now in the Archives of Hawaii), signed by King Wilf liam. Acknowledgment was not made by the Hawaiian Governraent until 1846, These paintings adorned the first palace in Honolulu in 1832, and are described in "The Voyage of the Frigate Potomac Around the World,"' by Cnmmodore Downes,;U. S. N. 44 Admiral Richard Thomas, Royal British Navy, who restored the Hawaiian Islands to their independent sovereignty on July 31, 1843, thereby repudiating their seizure by Lord George Paulet, R. N., in February, 1843, sent a portrait of himself in response to a request by King Kamehameha III. The admiral's portrait was hung upon the wall at the right of the entrance to the old Palace. It was reported at the time of its reception in 1848 to be a "striking likeness" of the admiral, who, until his death, was a warm friend of the Islands. His memory to this day is revered not only by Hawaiians, but by haole (white) residents. The portraits of Admiral Thomas and Frederick William II, King of Prussia (1848) were brought to Honolulu on H. B. M.'s ship "Constance," and on June 14, 1848, were presented by Captain Courtenay to Kamehameha III. The letter from Frederick William II, of Prussia, accompanying this portrait, was dated October 30, 1847. He acknowledges receipt of Kamehameha III's letter of acceptance (dated 1846) of the portraits of his father, King William I of Prussia, and of Field Marshal Prince Blucher, in 1830. He states he is sending his own portrait to give further assurance of his friendship. This portrait for many years was lost, but in 1925 was discovered in the Palace attic, together with those of King Wilhelm I and Marshal Blucher. The King of Prussia in the same year (1848) was a fugitive from his kingdom due to a revolution, and found sanctuary in England. The portraits were sent to Hawaii in acknowledgment of Hawaiian feather capes sent to the Prussian ruler, and on display in Berlin and Dresden. Louis fhilippe, King of France. A full length portrait sent by the French King to Kamehameha III as a mark of friendship. Received at Honolulu in February, 1848, aboard the French corvette "Sarcelle" and offered by the captain to the King at the Palace, in the presence of a guard of marines. Twelve French sailors carried the portrait to the Palace from the harbor. It was removed to the new Palace in 1882, and since the overthrow of the monarchy has been in the throne room. 45 By a strange coincidence, about the time it was received at Honolulu (1848), Louis Philippe had fled to England during a revolution, and neer regained his throne. It was an auspicious day, this Tuesday, February 15, 1848, when the French warship arrived and the great oil portrait of the King of France, in its heavy, gilded frame, was landed and escorted in state to the royal Palace, where the King and his ministers and staff awaited it at interpretation of which was made 'I "^- ^ - ' "; ''"' by R oh et ioer C richton iyllie, M inPrincess K1 nlani King of the French. Itd to enhanethe mo ister of Foreign Relations, as fol "iAgreeahly to my official ins mli es structions, In have thh e pleasure of 1