Ill 111111i m- M I 9UR B a39015 00033338 8b 62.244 I 06. -.L4: WCJ: L } - - - tN ' I 2 \ el C 114 A I I% 4n.~ I N "a, I, a*1X - i I,.;. X A I A I No-~. - ~ __~_ M3~~~~~~... WAIKIKI~~~~~ Under Hawaiian Skies A Narrative of the Romance, Adventure and History of the Hawaiian Islands A Complete Historical Account By ALBERT PIERCE IAYLOR Librarian, Archives of Hawaii Author of "Fighting a Typhoon," "Passport No. 17,849," "Miracle of Molokai," "The Port of Night" I LL ST I A TE) " Aol1c o(, I(0 1kcill h(ll, 1(.1( (il(O (otc no oc i ili i l'o' 1 l)ooloo." ")1You (arc nt of of i ho.we/ ': Jthcl(fo(r, yo do n(1, t no10w 11t ' scr! oft its clos s.t ' ' -II1taaliian Proverb. Honolulu, Hawaii, U. S. A. Advertiser Publishing Co., Ltd., Publishers 1926 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES Copyrighted, Library of Congress First edition, 1922 Second edition, 1926 All rights reserved ALBERT PIERCE TAYLOR Printed in the U. S. A. MY HAWAIIAN ISLANDS (Translation from the Hawaliian) 0, give me my island home, Where zephyrs gently whisper love; Where, 'neath majestic palms I roam To watch the wild surf rove. [ love its mountains and its dells, Its pathless woods with flowers gay, Where the bright-plumaged songster dwells Warbling notes of welcome on its way. Beneath the lehua trees we greet Sweet strains of music on the windIHawaiian maids with garlands sweetEndearing scenes of my dear home. -MARY JANE FAYERWEATHER MONTANO TABLE OF CONTENTS I'A(;E THE WHY (F TI rlE STORY '.....-.. --- —------- - - -.I tYesterday l nd Todayl '' - --------— '.... --- —---- -............ --- —--—........ ----------- 1! I'reface to Second Edition(l-...... --- ——.... -- —. --- —------ 22 CHAPTER I VIIENCE C AME T HIlE HIAWAIIANS..... --- —-----------------------------—.. --- —. TIawaiian Version of Their Creation -—.... -... -------------------- 2 C(HAPTER I I MANNERIS AND CUSTOMS OF TIlE ANCIENT HAWAIIANS-...... ---—. 49 (CItAPTEIt III 1)IS(:OVERY OF ItAWAII AN ITNSOLVED P:UZZLE-. --- —------- —. ---. --- —-—.. --- —-- CHAPTER IV TRAGEDY OF C(APTAIN.-JAME S (.COOK- ---------------..S CHAPTERI V IAWAII'S MOMENTOUS NI(IITi. --- —-----—. ---—.. Illl CIIAPTER' VI I)ARING NAVIGATORS FOIA,)WED CoOK- -...-..... —....-...;..... --- —-------- I3(; CHAPTER VII BUILDING OF A SEA E MPIREA-.. —...-. —1..-... 1.......1.... LINKS BINDING ENGLAND ANI) HAWAII.... --- —. —.- ----—..-. 1I) CHAPTER IX TREASURE hOUSE OF HAWAII -—. --- —.. ---. --- —. --- —.. 1-7 (CIHAPTER X PLANT WEALTH INTRODUCED BY FOREII(GNERS-.. —... --- —-... -—.. — ----—. 1!92 CHAPTER XI PIIONEER FO()REIGNERS IN I:AWA,I. -. ---.-.....-... --- ——. --- ---- --—.- 1 97 CHTAPTER XII TRA(;FI)EDY MARKED I)ISCOVERY OF IHONOLULU HARBORA()......-.............. 2 (CIVILIZrATIO)N CioSSES TIRES I OL...)...............-.............-..... 22 CHAPTER XIV PICTUtRE ROCKS TO PRINTEI) PAGE..S ----.... --- —-..-.-...-.-..-.............. 2t; CHAPTER XV FlIRSTr ISLAND IRULERlS To Go AIiO()D-. —.. ---.............. 27 C(IIAP'TER XVI TilE KIl IN OA NUL, OR PREMIERSI IP -----—...............- 2S, ('CIAPTER XVII AMERlIC AN WtARSH11IPS ON GC tARD....................................... 294 CHAPTER XVIII EMISSARIES OF POPE SCOUrST ISLANDS..........................: —)4 CHAPTER XIX FRENCHI ANI) ENGLISHI AGGRESSI()NS-8..... —..1-...... I4 CIIAPTER XX ENGILAND A FRIEND, NOT AN ENEMY 8 --- —--------------—... -...-....-.... --- —--- --—.. --- )2 CHAPTER XXI FFUDAL RIGHTS YIELDED To PEOPLE --- —-—.....-.............. -------------- 344 CHAPTER XXII PAGE SWEET (CHARM OF LEGENDS AND FO)LKLI E -.......... --—...-.......... ------ - Legend of Kahuilaokalani. -....... --- —------ -------------------------—.. —.-.;5 Legend of Kahala-o-pnuna. --- —-------------------------------—.... --- ---------------—. 3(; Legend of "Pu-Ahuula".. ---- --------—.. --- —-—... --- —- ---- 367 The Mermaids and the Cruel Shark -........-..... --- —------------—. --- ——. 374 CHAPTER XXIII GOLDEN COURT OF THE KAMEIIAMEItAS.-............. --- —-----—. --- —-- 379 C(HAPTER XXIV RECIPROCITY TREATY LONG NEGOTIATED-.. --- —-....... ----—.. ----.. 39): CHAPTER XXV MERRY I)AYS OF KALAKAUA IREX....... --- —--—......- -. 413 CHAPTER XXVI YESTERDAYS OF HIAWAII NEI —...... --- —---—......-........ ---. --- 417 CHAPTER XXVII VANCIENT AND MODERN KIN(GLY S-YMI;)LS.- -. --- —---- 8 --- —----------- -------- 4:3 CHAPTER XXVIII T1IE "BAYONET CONSTITUTIO)N"....... --—........- 438 CHAPTER XXIX TIlE SHOT T'IHAT WAS ITEAm) AROU()rND THEII Wo (L....R...... 454 CIIAPTER XXX I.AST OF TIIE OLD GU ARD1 -...)-..................- 4.81 CIAPTER XXXI ONIY THRONE ROOM IN A.MERICA.. —................- 48s5) CH(APTER XXXII LAMENT OF TIlE KAMAAINA.. —...-...-.................-...-.. 4}94 (HAPTER XXXIII WV.HERIE EAST MEETS WEST-. - -.... —......................- 4 CHAPTER XXXIV THE HAWAIIAN IS LAN)DS —.................... 50 CH1APTER XXXV I)EATIH OF QUEEN LILII1UOKALAN-I-..-...-..-... —............-... 522 I HAPTER XXXVI tIAWA' II'T S.Two SWEETES.. M.ELODIES-.-... --—........... r52S CHIAPTER XXXVI HAWAII'S FLAG I)OMINATED TIHE OCEAN ----—....-5.-..8...-.- 535 CHAPTER XXXVIII IIHAWAIIAN COAT-O(F-ARMS AND OLD IIAWAIIAN "I(; --- —------- --------—... 542 CHAPTER XXXIX SURF-RIDING IASL BACK;GROUND OF PAG;AN RITES -- ---------—. ---- - 546 CHIAPTER XL INMATCHIED TIIOUG(ITFI NESS AN) A HIA.-.. ---.................................... 552 CHAPTER XLI TIHE SAINT OF MOLOKAI -- -------—.. -....-..-..-...-... -.. 557 CHAPTER XLII IlAWAII'S IPREPAREDNESS AMERICA'S B LWAR............................... 5 RULERS OF HAWAII...................... --- —-------------------------- ------------------------------- 574 CHIRONOLOGY OF IMPORTANT EVENTS IN IIAWAIIAN ISLANDS -----—. -------------------------------------------------- -------------- ------ 575 THE AUTHOR ----------- ---—.....-... -609 40 MP k 41 THE WNHY OF THE STORY FTIE-IFHawaiian race todlav lackcs incentive to visuialize, a goal for national achievemlenit, it has, at least, a 0jorionsly imperial, barbaric civilization to look lback upon. As T)estinv has aled playedl her card1s and( dispossessed the"1-axvaiianls of their ancient birthright, their niational and racial indleipendence, even of their own lbe'atififtl, colorful flag, Fate, the mystic sister of Diestiny, not only bronght the Islanders lbene-ath the protecting folds of Old Glory, bnt has also stirredl theml so thoroughMvlyin the MNelting- I-ot of the R-aces, that their own rare, (lelighitfnl, winsome and hospitable personality h1as largely bceen absorbed in the negative and indistinct civilization which has emergedl from the minoylincr of EF-ast and W\est in the great seal xvbich B)alboa (liscoveredl centuries ago. Out of the leg-endary imythical haze of the centuries that has enveloped the HtighAway of Time since the (lay the bellying) sail of oubs caravels were fnrled for the first tunein Amencan waters, to the (lay whene Captain James Cook, Royal — Navy, dliscoveredl, or redliscovered lite flawaiian Islands in 1778-an achievement so soon to be marked by the flow of the (listinotilshlniavigyator's bl100( Into the waters of historic iKealakekuia B3av whene the natives learned that hie was a hum11anl being" andl not an immortal or a g-od-a. civilization dleveloped InI the isles of Il\ ia"ii a civilization that wvas richly barbaric- and lpemeatedl with the pompl andl circuimstances that autocratic, feudal and lpriestly rutle imposed. It was a civilization wh~ich parallele(1 with remarkable imilarity the old civilization whichi prevailedl, ine varyingy degrce,'. in countries of Europe. It is my firm belief that althiougoh the IHawaiians heretofore may. have been classed by some historians andl some chutrchmien as savages, hieathens andl pagans, thiev really possessedl a civilization vastly superior to that of any other Polynesma lpe(pUle, or of any 10 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES insular dwellers isolated and not previously in contact with another race. The civilization attained by the Hawaiians compares favorably with that prevalent in Europe, even at the time of the Dark Ages. The kings of the various islands were autocratic. They held the power of life and death over their subjects. The priests swayed a remarkable, though often stern and sinister, influence. Violations of the system of living which they imposed upon the people called for the death penalty. Women, while acquiring a high place in the nation, were proscribed in their daily life by the rule of the fearful tabu, yet women have always played important roles in the group. But the administration of government, the habits of the rulers, and the customs prevailing at their courts, even the cut of the garments for royalty, chiefs and commoners, and the manner of living, was comparable to that current in civilized countries. Spanish navigators are said to have been wrecked upon the shores of Hawaii island in the sixteenth century, and the impress of their race is believed by many Hawaiians of today to have been made upon the islanders. The ancient Hawaiian helmets and cloaks were of beautiful designs, fashioned principally from the feathers of small birds, so beautiful as to command admiration today, and were also strangely like those of the ancient Greeks and Phoenicians, many historians claiming to trace a Spanish influence. The ceremony of eating was far superior to that prevailing in the baronial halls of medieval Europe, where gluttony and the niceties in the partaking of food were in contrast to the delicacy of method prevailing at the fern-covered tables of the chiefs laid out in the open under Hawaiian skies. Trunks of trees fashioned into bowls and beautifully polished, and other bowls of varying sizes and designs, adorned the tables. There were large round bowls for poi, the national dish; long, concave trenchers for roasted pig; wide, flat ones for fish; small calabashes and gourds for relishes and desserts; large ones filled with water with fern leaves floating upon the surface for use as finger bowls -all providing the Hawaiians of ancient periods with dishes THIE HY OF (1 THE TALE i' 11 that, il a (legree, were as beautiful as the chinaware which graces modern and civilized tables. There was no hasty use of both hands over a fish, a fowl or a pig. Reclining upon one elbow, or resting upon one hand, even as epicurean Ronians ant( Greeks of old reclined, the chief used the fingers of the free hand to separate the flesh before him, and each morsel was conveyed to the lips with as much delicacy and grace of movement as possible, and the finger bowls were frequently used. Can we say as much for the Europeans of the Dark Ages? So closely allied were the ceremonies of the Hawaiian priests to those of the Jews of ancient Palestine-even to the method of constructing their temples-that there is cause to pause and wonder at such a superior civilization. The -lawaiians had their Temples of Refuge in wlich fugitives from justice, malefactors and innocently accused persons could seek and receive shelter and respite fromn injury until the teml)le authorities determined their guilt or innocence. They had their purification of the temples with salt, similar to the ceremony use(l in Palestine. They perforled the ceremony of circumcision as it was l)erformed in the Holy Land. They had their ashes and sackcloth. The priesthood was related to the government and to the (lirection of the habits of the rulers as the priesthood of the IlHoly Land was related to the rulers of that sacred realm. Out of the legendary past camie the welding of the various district and island kingdoms into one until they became the soli(lified, powerful and even brilliant enmpire ruled by Kamehameha f, often styled Kamehameha the Great, adviselly ternmed the "Napoleon of the Pacific" because of the superlb generalship (lisl)layed in war by this barbaric ruler who reigned wisely and witlh power, whose contact with the white men of England alnd America gave him a better understanding as to the part his own kingldomn might play in the affairs of men and nations, a remarkalle man who died in 1819, a year before the American missionaries reached the shores of Hawaii to plant the seeds of Christianity. Kamehameha was a lawgiver as well as a soldier and a conqueror. "Let the old men and women and the children lie down 12 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES in safety beside the highway," was one of his edicts, the "Mamalahoe," a law simple and dlirect, free from unnecessary verbiage, forcefully undisguised by ambiguity, yet majestically phrased, and as replete with legal meaning as the volumes upon volumes which English-speaking lawmakers have compiled upon the same subject. The royal court of Kamehameha the Great was as brilliant, in a comparative sense, as that of his contemporary, Napoleon. Surrounded by great chieftains and generals of his own race, with here and there an Englishman and an American occupying high positions in his court, encompassed with ceremony and pomp, m:rked by a display of gorgeously colored feather helmets, cloaks and beautiful feather kahilis (standards of royalty), every symbol beilng pregnant with meaning when Kamehameha stood, or was seated, when he listened or spoke, held audiences or imposed penalties, or received conquered kings' chiefs-there was a strange parallel letween this sylvan court in mid-sea and the brilliant court at imperial Versailles. Napoleon roamed over Europe witl his vast armies and brought potentates and princes to their knees. Kamnehameha made similar campaigns and conquests all over the Hawaiian group and similarly brought all kings and chiefs to their knees. It was such a king(lom, prepared even for the new religion alout to envelop the islands, that the aged Kamehameha turned over to Iate and Destiny on May 8, 1819, when he passed to the IBeyond. The ancient tabus, the old religion, the temples and the stone and womol i(lols, were utterly (lestroyed when Kamehameha II's tabu queen, Keopuolani, and their little son Kauikeaouli participated in the breaking of the ancient tabus by eating together, in the sight of the multitude near Kailua, Hawaii, an incident that almost cause(l civil war by those who were reactionaries and stood by the ancient system. It was then decided, by that act, that women were the equals of ilen, and that the ancient religionl gave the people nothing of moral value. Then it was that in the suppressing of the suddenly developed civil war the edict went forth from Liholiho, Kanmehameha II, son of the great Kameha THE WHY OF, THE TALE 1 1) eielia, and now king, proiiouncing the death-knell of the aoe-oldl religion and that its symbols should be utterly destroyed. In this remarkable situation of a race without a religionl, on March 30, 1820, a banid of New Encgland missionaries and teachers and artisans, found the H-fawaiian people, seemingly receptive and eager for a new religion to rellace that which they had volniitarily cast into oblivion. Never before in the history of the world had there been such an illustration of moral force. And thims the religion of the Anglo-Saxon gainied its foothold in the H-awaiiani Islandls, giving new impetus to lolitical, industrial, maritime and social life in the Mid-Pacific paradise. The kings and chiefs continued their lautocratic ruile, buit the pover of life and death over sub~jects was restricted]. Meen of Englanid, America, France, Rtussila and Spaiii sailled into the island harbors with their war anld tra(liiu vessels; dliplomats aiiid religionists played their carids in the effort to build influence or retain it; the Islands, even the native rulers and chiefs, becamllle I)pWal5 in the gamiie of diplomiiacy; gunis of frioyates were trainied upon the city of oiiolulu nowv and thenl its treasury andtl customns revenues were occasionally raidledl and conhiscated by the relpresentatives of E-uropean iPowers laying the little kingdomll helpless undler their warships' frowning unlls; filibuisters p)lottc(l in San iFrancisco in the early fifties of last century to capture the islandIs and establish a Republic; its flag was lovwered frequtletly in tile face of superior lpo\ver. Able miien entered the emlplovllient of the kingdom an(1 adlvised the rulers, niostlv well. Others, advFenturers, soldiers of fortune, sycop)hants and grafters, also securedl employmient and wvere cause of innumerable scandals in the goverinment, anld in social atntd inllustrial spheres of activity. I)iplonlats, p~otentates, pri1nces, atlndirals, geneirals. authors, travelers, scientists, explorers, scholars, painters, m1usicians, beauti ftil women, visited IHtawaii in large niumbers hiailiiig fromt maiiy pirts of the world, the tide lbegluiing just about the close of the iamehameha dynasty ini tile 'seventies aud the beginning of the reign of Kiing IKalakatia, wvhio ruledI for nearly two (lecales. 14 UNXDER HAWAIIAN SKIES 'The establishment of steamship lines between the Golden G(ate and Honolulu, and extending even to the Orient and the Antipodes, brought cultivated men and women and more soldiers of fortune to the Islands to bask in the royal sunlight, for Kamehaneha IV was the king of the elegant and jovial lmanner; Kamehanmeha V the king of royal dignity and ceremonial exactitude; Kalakaua the royal, merry monarch, all serving in their various ways to create a charming mid-sea mecca for travelers. Travelers, and particularly the Bohemians among them, loved the Islands and their kings in those former days, forty to seventy years ago, and sang of them in prose and poem. There were plots to thrust at least two of the monarchs off their thrones, to fail, with the exception of the final movemient against Queen Liliuokalani in 1893. Kalakaua, seeking health, died upon the shores of the Golden (ate in January, 1891. His sister, Liliuokalani, imperious and headstrong, lookintg lackward to the imperial (lays of Kamlehamieha the (reat, decided she should rule witl the personal power of the larbaric rulers and not under the mo(lerate provisions of a constitutionlal monarchy. She believed, like Iouis of France, that she was the State. Two years of her reign passed and she was sudldenly thrust off the throne. A republic was set up 1) Amnericans and others then classed as foreigners, who believed that the time had come when it appeared necessary to establish a stable, modern governnent. A president was chosen to administer the functions of the new government in cooperationl with a calinet. It was the end of monarchy in Hawaii. Came a day in 1898 when, downl in another part of the world, in the harbor of Havana, an American warship was sunk-the Maine. The armies of America and Spain fought upon the soil of Cuba, when suddenly the world was electrified by a message which came from the cpposite side of the globe that the power of Spain had been humbled in the bay of Manila. Flashed the mlessage fromi Commodore George Dewey, comlmander-in-chief of the American fleet riding victoriously at anchor in the bay near the shattered hulks of the former Irotud fleet of Spain, to PIresident McKinley at Washington: THE WHY OF THE TALE 15 "Send troops!" Hawaii then became the actual Crossroads of the Pacific. Long lines of troopships steamed out through the Golden Gate into the broad Pacific destined for far-away Manila, a long, hot voyage for newly recruited troops never before out of sight of any lanl, a transport problem which America never before had faced. Honolulu, midway across the Pacific, nestling in the shade of its cocoanut groves, cooled by the trade winds blowing down from the Arctic Ocean, offered a haven of rest-for Honolulu was early called by the foreigners, "Fair Haven." But Hawaii was yet a Republic, a foreign land with treaties with all civilized governments, a neutral state, and to receive America's transports and offer comfort to her soldiery was to declare herself openly an ally of the United States, an enemy of Spain. Then, as a measure of military necessity, on July 6, 1898, the Congress of the United States passed a Joint Resolution of Annexation, Hawaii was annexed and declared to be an integral part of the United States, and the translports and warships flying the Stars and Stripes thereafter sailed into the American port of Honolulu. Hawaii has been a land of romance and adventure. It has been the playground of poets and prose writers, of painters a(l musicians. "The loveliest fleet of Islands that lies anchored in any ocean," wrote Mark Twain in a letter which now adorns tle wall of my library. Robert Louis Stevenson, Charles Warren Stoddard, William R. Bliss, (eorge Chaney, Mary Krout, Jack London, Lord and Lady Brassey, and scores of other authors have been in Hawaii and received inspiration for their l)ens. In monarchy (lays everything centeredl upon the court and revolved around the royal palace, the kinlg, the royal family, the balls, receptions and audiences in the beautiful throne room of the Palace of Iolani; around the visits of the wooden-walle(l warships whose presence in port meant lances and receptions and dinners on board, often with the king and queen and the court present. There were gay parties in the country; there was music; there was love, and many adventures in love when gay midlshipmen plighted their troths to beautiful brown-skinned, 16 -UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES soft-eyed maildens of Hawaii, many of whom might have but recently returned from finishing schools in America and Europe. The rulers of H-awaii were as polished in m-anner, and often alout as well educated as some who occupied thrones in foreign countries. And so, with this lengthy foreword just to suggest to the readers of this conmpilation why so many brilliant, colorful and venturesome incidents could happen in H-onolulu and throughout It-awaii in the days when the courts of Kamehameha and Kalaklaua and Liliuokalani were so replete with pompous, and often semial)ar aric pageantry, this narrative, "uTlndr Haicaiian Skies, is offered. This is a narrative of history, not an academic history. I have begun the colmpilation of the work on this January 7, 1922, in colmemeoration of the centennial anniversary of the first printing- dlone in the Hawaiian Islands, or practically, west of the 1Iississi)pp)i. A century ago today the little Ramage printing press brought around Cape Horn from Boston to Honolulu in 1819-1820, in the first missionary vessel, the brig Thaddeus, was screvwed dlown by the mighty chieftain general, Keeaumoku, in the presence of the king, missionaries and many HTawaiians of note, and the first sheet of words printed in the Hawaiian langulage was struck off, one of the most prophetic of the many historic incidents of the western world. This very day, also, only a few hours back, I watched the eyes of the last titular prince of the Hawaiian dynasties-Prince Jonah K uhio Kalanianaole, Hawvaii's (lelegate to Congress for twenty years-close in death at Waikiki. Both this century-old incident, and this hours-old memory, are inspirational, and thus I dedicate this book to the people of H-Iawaii, both Itawaiians and foreigners alike, among whom I have dwelt for a quarter of a century, and to the people of the outside world, who, having little time to read a complete, academic, chronological history of awarii, wherein mlav be crow(ded so much data that the average reader or traveler does not desire to absorb so nmuch, will find in this volume of word panels of historical events, sufficient history to learn what }[awaii was and what Hawaii is today. T IE W, l-lY ()OF TiE TALE It has been my endeavor to permeate this narrative with al atmiosphere of the real, lovable -Hawaii; to give an intimate insight into the Hawaii of oldeln days, so that the traveler who visits Hawaii today or tomorrow and finlls it very modern, witi much of the old charming life absent, leaving (onll HlIawaii's soft, alluring climate, its wondlerful beaches, its active and awe-inspiring volcano of Kilauea, and its praised hospitality to thle traveler, will realize that in these beautiful, scintillating, colorful waters away downl in the lazy latitiudes of tile Pacific, there is a groupl of islands that form one of the most charmlingl an(d sulnnv spots unler the American flag., In a quarter of a century of residence in ltawaii, devoted to the Islands and their people, absorbing history, the legends and myths andl traditions, and realizing the lofty place Nwhich these lindl(y Polynesians have aclquired inl the sun. I have Nwrittenl much albout the Hawaii of yesterday and of today. A number of lmy stories have appeared in the H-onolulut Advertiser, with wholse editorial staff I have bleen associated nearly all this quarter of a century. From these 1 have retrieved much that w\ill be found snuggled within the p)ages of this b)ook. IMuch of the narrative is new, and is that which comes "by word of mouth" from Hlawaiians-"lip pages"-of Hawaii's ancient history of the perio(l before the islanders ha(t a writtenl or prillte(l language. I am also indebted to many of Hawaii's numerous historians, legend writers and bards, livilng a(1 dea(l, and their ablundanlt works, and to all I extend miy aclnowleldgments for informatiol that has been of value in this compilation. lAmolng these are Pfrof. W. I). Alexander, the historiaul, noxw (leal; 'lhoimas (;. Thrum, historian andl compiler, an: indefatigalle Nwriter, whose literary work ill an(l concerning li lawaii coverls hialf at celntury of unusually ablle activities; Mrs. Mary Jane at ayerweather Molntano, descendant of chiefs, a Iawaiian poetess and historian, and composer of Hawaiian songs; Robert C. l yd(eckcer, of the Territorial Archives' bureau, whose services in p)reserving scatteredl (locuments of old Iawaii have ai(le(l this work; the late Prince Kalanianaole, Prince of -[awaii, statesman, gentleiman, and adlviser of his people; the late Queen liliuokalani, whose reminis 18 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES cences of old Hawaii related to me personally were of exceptional value; Hon. Sanford B. Dole, Hawaii's only President, its "Grand Old Manl," who has been a source of inspiration; Robert \V. Andrews, custodian of the archives of the Mission Cousins' Society, wlhose office is in the little coral house in the Mission Center, where are preserved the journals and diaries and records of the first missionaries in Hawaii, and where, close by, the first printing in Hawaii was done just a century ago, and where, also, some of the pages, in preparation, were written, and where I spent weeks compiling the stories of Rev. Asa Thurston, Lucy Thurston, Rev. Hiram Bingham, the Chamberlains, S. N. Castle, Amos Cooke, Dr. Gerrit P. Judd, of the kings and chiefs, the queens and chiefesses, and others prominent in the development of -Hawaii's educational, religious, industrial and financial need(s; to Dr. II. E. Gregory, director of the Bishop Museum; and to writers of decades ago, including David Malo and D. Kamakau, the native historians; Rev. Sheldon Dibble, recorder of the early missionary work; Abraham Fornander, historian ancl compiler; Rev. Samuel C. Damon, editor of The Friend, and friend of the mariners; Col. Curtis Piehu Iaukea, court gentleman and former chamberlain to King Kalakaua and Queen Liliuokalani; to fames Jackson Jarves, historian; Robert Crichton \yllie, Minister of IForeign Relations in HIawaii from 1845 to 1865, a diplomat and a voliminoius writer; to allny of Ionolulu's mene and wolmen who moved in the royal court circles of the reigns of the later iKamlehamehas and of the Kalakauas, for interesting sidelights on life inl I onolulu when the officers of the American and English navies contri)buted not a little to the gay, social life of the Hawaiian calpital; also to many Hawaiian men and women who broke throtugh l)arriers of superstition that, accordingl to the ancient code, ilmposed silence concerning phases of ancient life, a lifting of the dread tabu, as it were, and oipened the floodgates of reminiscellces; and to -I1nmma Aihuena Davison Taylor, an authoritv on Hawaiian history, literature, legends, genealogies and languag'e, who has (levote(d much of her lifetime to the welfare of tlhe law-aiians. YESTERDAY zAND TODAY 19 In my tilme il Hawaii as a newspaperman I have interviewe(l hundreds of notable persons at Honolulu, most of theml aboard vessels as they were entering Honolulu harlor-dlilplomats, admirals and generals, titled personages, heroes, adventurers, soldiers of fortune, treasure-seekers, swashbuckling war correspondents, international criminals, literary and musical folk, captains of industry, makers and breakers of empires, revolutionists, bucko mates, South Sea pirates, explorers, royal personages, shipwrecked castaways. It is thus, I trust that I have been alle to enmesh the "atmosphere" that I sincerely hope will fill this narrative with interest and make it of value to those who would know the real Hawaii, but who cannot wade through a comlplete history, just to give readers an insight into the charml of life here in The Yesterdays that they may better enjoy the H-lawaii of the Todays-and yet, herein, are many facts marshalled phalanxdeep and(l placed on dress para(le. Again, this narrative, not a history, is offered to the peo)ple of Hawaii, to those who travel, to those who just real, to those who love stories of romance, adventure and achievement, to those who would become better acquainted with this tropical ()otpost of the United States, this picturesque island territory, this Malta of the Pacific, riding so easily "at anchor" in tlese Lazy Latitudes of the Pacific. ALBERT PIERCE lTAYLOR. "Luana Pua," HIonolulu, January 7, 1922. YE STI1 ERDAPI:XY AN I) TODA()I\Y (1922 Edition) HIE Hawaii of Captain Vancouver, Lord George Byron, R. N., Capt. Thos. ap. Catesby Jones, U. S. N., James Jackson Jarves, Charles \Varren Stoddard. Robert Louis Stevenson, Mark Twain, Sir (eorge Simpson of HIudlson's Bay Company fame, Lord and Lady Brassy, the lDuke of IEdin 20 UNDEtR HAWAIIAN SKIES burgh, Isabella Bird, and Rollin Daggett, the Hawaii of the old picturesque monarchy era when bronze-skinned sovereigns ruled the Paradise of the Pacific, has passed, but the same old mnoonlit niglhts remain and the cocoanut palms as leisurely nod over the coral beaches; the strum of the guitar and the tinkle of the ulkulele are still heard in the soft Hawaiian nights, for the climate of H-awaii has the same charm today as in the days before the civilized era. Hawaii only has changed its flag from the colorful, striped ensign of the monarchy, to the Red, White and Blue of the Amnerican republic; acquired paved thoroughfares, electric street railways, automatic telephones, cable and wireless services, radiocasting and radio photographing achievements, modern hotels; automobiles by the thousands; traffic police. The old, win(ling coral roadways, the old-style hotels with wide lanais (verandas), and charming fragrant gardens, are passing. WVhere, once upon a time, the harbor of Honolulu was fringed with quaint wooden sheds to receive cargoes fronl the light Seas, alln where old-time frigates with lofty masts and spreading yards were anchore(d in "Naval Row," there are today great concrete piers colplaring with the most modern in any Avlericaln port, with huge battle cruisers and great steel commerce carriers resting their bulk against them. Many of the picturesque typically Hawaiian features have disappeared il the march of progress, yet it is still the Paradise of the Pacific. the Rainbow Isles of Captain Cook. Under the impetus of commllercial (levelopment l-Ionolulu has become the strategic maritime "Crossroa(s of the lacific," for ships still poke their bows in from the ports of spices anll tea an(l silk. They collle froml the lands of strange peoples; froml the South Seas lwhere old-tile semi-p)rimitive life may yet be found even as tle adventurous traders fouind it up to half a century ago. They come fronl the mysterious realms in tle Far East. They carry away huge cargoes of stougar just mlanufactured froml the sugar cane raise(l on thousands of acres reaching back from the ocean shores to the mountain ridges; of I)nleap)Iles tlat are garnered in,ast fields that symmetrically traverse other thousands of acres YESTERDAY AND TODAY 21 of rich lands; of bananas that grow luxuriantly in moist places; of coffee that grows on the upllands of entrancingly beautiful Kona, not far from the spot where Captain Cook laid down lis life. But in Honolulu and almost everywhere in the Hawaiian Islands may be found bits of the picturesque Orient and of the South Seas, for Hawaii is a cosmopolitan land and upon its shores dwell people of races of the great and of the small nations of the world, and they dwell in amity, while the grist mill of Amlericanization rumbles oln year after year, mixing in its crucible all the foreign elements mingling in the mid-sea paradise, yielding a harvest of new citizens of tlle parent republlic. The modern globe-trotter has flung away his pugareed helmet and green-lined sun unbllrella; lie has discarded the label of "tourist," and "Baedeker" is no longier a conspicuous volume carried in his hand while he visits strange lands-even in Hawaii. Ile wants to move and live abroad 1much as he moves and lives at home, and he wants the convenielnces lie knlows at homne. He disembarks at Honolulu from a palatial steamship utpon a very modern wharf, steps into a high-powered motor, drives along up-to-date paved boulevards, directed here and there by traffic police, and draws utp before hotels as modern almost as le has left behind him in San Francisco, Chicago or New York-but admirably suited to Hawaii's open-air climate. That is 1Honolulu to(lay. At the picturesque port of Hilo, Nwhere Lord Byron name(l the )eautiful crescent bay after himself, one hundred and ninety miles frolm Honolulu by the channel route between the islands, lie (disembarks again upon a modern wharf, steps into a nmotor car, andl is whirled over miles of concrete-paved roadway to the very brink of the awe-inspiring, roaring, living, lava-lashed crater of lHalemiaumau in tlle volcano of Kilauea-a mere satin-slippler trip for Milady. Hawaii is the playgro)und of the world, wllere every month is the month of May, Nwhere Nature smiles most alluringly, be it summner or winter, for wvinters anll s1mmllers in H-Iawxaii are synonyvlnous. 22 L UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES Like Egypt, Hawaii is a land of contrasts and memories, the isles a mecca for travelers, but with an atmosphere laden with memories of an ancient existence which was a glorious period of the history of these fair Islands. A\. P. T. -lonoltulu, 1922. 'PREF,;I1ACE TO THE SECOND EDITION N 1922 I decided that a residence of a quarter of a century in the Hawaiian Islands, during which time the change from a Republic of Hawaii status to that of a territory of the United States took place, and during which, also, I had devoted much space to the writing of Hawaiian history, should he commemorated by the publication of a book about Hawaii. My principal reason was that within its pages I should be able to record my own analysis of Hawaiian history from earliest times to the present. There were many instances of deviation in other narratives which al)peare(l to be not entirely in accor(l with history or -ny version. "Undecr 1/acu'aiial S.i/ees" seelled an appropriate title, for it appeared to symbolize the telling of the absorbing narrative of all the intensive historic incidents which raised the' Hawaiian race far above all other Polynesian peoples and made their entry into civilized activities an event that commanded the attention of the powers. My purpose was to publish a book, that, aside from the mere recording of the standard facts, would embody a more recent analysis of Hawaii's earlier history of a nation then unknown to the world, its later contact with foreigners, the acceptance of the religion of Christ, the adoption of modern government administration, and tlle causes of the movement by which the empire of Kamehameha the Great was finally overturned and Americans stepped in and prepared the nation for admission to the union of PREIFACE T() SEC()OND E-DITION)N 23 states and territories of the United States. It was a work that I hoped would find ready acceptance among my friends, students, general readers and travelers who might learn of such a book. Therefore, it was only a limited edition, produced on the presses of HIonolulu. It seemedl to meet with g-enerous approval. Mrs. Jack I ondon praised it and regretted that she did not have a copy beside her while compiling Jack London's notes into a l)ook abl)out lIawaii. Criticisms ill local newspapers were astonishillngly favorable, for H vawaiian history is a "touchy" sulject with the wounds of the monarchy overthrow in 1893 not yet entirely healed, a(nd the rule that "a prophet is not without honor excel)t in his own country" has all earnest apl)plication in Ilawlaii. I received letters of al)l)reciation from residents alroa(l. Lord Nortllcliffe lersonally exl)ressed to me thle pleasure he had in pe)rusillg its pages. I was gratifiel to pick utp a col)y of the issue of the National (Geograpllic Magazile, F elbruary, 1924, (levote(l exclusively to H Iawaii;all findl that one of the chapters of "Under i-Hacwaiia(n S'kies" had lbeell included. To mne this was as pleasing as though I adl lbeell (lecorated on the field of battle. (ilbert Grosvelnor, elitor of the Natiolal (;eographic, nma(le this remark:.Ilr. Taylor's interestillg and authoritative )bo(k, '(hidr tlaa'(ii(an S'kies', etc. 'llTerefore. I have l)een impelled to b)elieve that "Uindr lHawaiitan S'kies,'' whlich is prol)al)ly the first intensive narrative of the histor- of Ilawaii to be offered since Alexander's "A Brief I-istory of tlie Ilawaiian Islandls" was ptullislhe( in the late 90's, mneets a demalnd of the present dla, just when tle eyes of tile world seem to l)e focused on the I'acific. I am certain it will be found a valuable compl)endium of facts, written in the free narrative style of a newspaperman, for rea(lers of history, for lpulblic, private, university, school and steamship lilraries, for lecturers, -wonlell's clubs, for all those wlio have visited HIawaii to recall their own\ delightful days in tile Islands, and for tlose who are attracte(d by! the lure of the Paradise of tlhe I'acific and are planilng to revel il its glorious sulmmery climate. 24 UN I)DER HA\WA\\IIAN SKIES And so, believing that the world is intently regarding these Islands, which are America's farthest outpost, with Uncle Sam's khaki-clad sentinels on guard, I trust that the pioneering of the first limited edition will cause the reading public to regard "Under f[azctaiiani Skies' as the one book that will open its eyes to the grandeur and stateliness of the story of the Hawaiian people. Since wr1iting "ljUndeCr Ilaeaiiuan Skies, Hawaii has been largely in the public eye. Great round-the-world liners have called frequently at Honollulu alnd ilo, each with its hundreds of passengers, a pioneering effort which has been ma(le permanent. The American Fleet-or more properly, the United States Fleet-two hundred warships, visited the Islands in the spring of tills year, engaged in war maneuvers, the result of which indicated not only to naval and military authorities, but members of Conogress also, that Oahu has not yet become the Malta of tle P'acific and that a far greater program for the enlargement of Pearl Harbor Naval Station and the army department must be developed. In the light of the official inquiries into the aviation problems, it has been insinuated, even, that Hawaii is not the "Key of the Pacific." In September, 1925, an attermpt was made to link the Pacific coast andl Hawaii by naval airplane, an outstanding world achievement, had the flight, planned to be made in little more than the twenty-four hours, been successful. The effort of Commander John Rodgers and his gallant crew was shattered by a lack of fuel whenl within an hour's flight of Maui island. In this spring, also, another achievement was recorded upon THawaii's history tablets, that of sending photographs by radio from Honolulu, received in New York City, and immediately publisled in the newspapers and flashed upon the movie screens the same day. In this year of achievemlents, "tTn der liawaiialn Skies" goes into its second edition, a popular book telling the story of Hawaii in a way that readers seem to appreciate. IPREFACE TO SECOND EDITION 25 But, chief of all, is my last word of prefatory comment. This is the significant, even sensational, historic change that I am able to make in the heretofore accepted versions of the reasons why Lord George Paulet, Royal Navy, commanding the British frigate Carvsfort, seized the Hawaiian Islands in February, 1843, and raised the English flag over the royal palace in Honolulu. Nearly all historians, and most of the available records, pointed to this seizure as ulnwarranted, arrogant, and an assumption of power of a great nation over a smaller one, the alibi being that British subjects had grievances whicl could only be redressed under thle frownillng guns of a great frigate. -Iawaii was hullbled in that year. I am able, in this second edition, to state positively that the (accpted vCersiolns twere incorrcct, (and that Eliigland seized Hawaii to prccuiit the Islands froml being' forcibly taken by Praiice, whlich w.as tllen asselmblilng a powerful fleet in Tahitian waters, preIparatory to sailing to Hlonolulu and making demands which could not be colm)lie(l with. ALBERT P. TAYILOR. 'Pulnaulua, Kawxela Bay, Oahu, I)ecember 18, 1925. 3 CHAPTER I \VIIENCiIi_ CAME THE H-AWAIIANS? OUT OF.THE DAWN JNGINGi its wav hig-h above the vast waste of waters, far upl under the blue vault of heaveu, a great lbird soaredl maj estically, wheeling and (ippingy, now upon one wiug, and now upon the other, and finally, sweeping downwxard, (lroppe(I an immense egg-(, which, falling(- upon the crestedl waves, butrst linto f ragmnents, and thus formed the mid-sea archipelago knowni to(lay- as the Hawaiian Islands. -Jfhnzioaiiaul iTtdiltOll. A\U1l1 a snlperhutman b)eing, or god, is said to heave laid his handl upon the sunl and arrested its course, giving( hIis consort time to finish the wvork of creation which she 'wacs anilous to complete before (darkuess (lrew itLs pall over tlhe face of the earth. S"o ended the first day in the H-awaiian creation. — Ilazcaiian Traditionl. N ANCIE'NT H-awaii there was a belief in a trinlity of grols. Na-nkio, the creator of the xv,,orldl, removedl the cover of a great (gourdl calahashl, and throwving it high into space, formed the sky. The godl placedl his hand within the gourd, and lbroughit forth a flaky, white substance, andl castino- it into the air, formed the clouds. H-e thrust his hand again into the calabash and (lrawving fortLh a g)reat handful of seeds, threw SANFORD B DOLE HONOULUU. HAWAU 0 S^Medr ^ ^^~ ^^c^io^ ^ard9,^ ^0I^^7&>^ ^ ahr-/ W62a 2. Ovv g4/FVM^ }t4 /hrzL-^ Sxlt UN DER HAWAI ILAN SKIES That holds tho canioe (The Paddlle o)t State), was the queen; Loo1,k ia was the lbril ha at Cortn The IK-apo 'o (chieftain of Ma iii) giaridedl outside; So, is surou1101d(ed Keawe, AndI fits (rlesemblhe's) the Giridle. This chiant is closely alliedl to the — serious qutestion of heredity and rank amiong the aljis (high~lest chiefs), that the identitv of the various lines of chiefs might lbe lpreservedl with (listinct knowledgec of familv (lescent. So the chant of Keawe is in-timately associated with a solenmn ceremony-. The efforts of the king- to secure offspring were associated with the worship of the go(Is; but these religionis jperforniances related only to the firsthorn. hecauise such hield the h-io-hest rank as chiefs. In the case of hig-h chiefs the,affair was conducted as follows: a highl chief of the op.posite sex wvas sought out andl, after betrothial, the two youngi( people were at first placed (hoonoho) undler keepers in separate establishmnents, preparatory to pairimncy off for offsprinig, according to lDavid MNialo, the Hawaiian historian, who wvas the highiest[ authoritv on manners andl customs fifty anld sixty -\ears ago. Thie purpose was to create offspring1_ of the highiest possible rank. WNorshipj wvas paidl to the g-ods, becanse it wvas firmly believed thiat the genius. piower an(d inspiration (mnana) of a king was like that of a god. \Vhen the princess hiad recovered from her infirmity and lhad putrified herself in the bathi. she was escortedl to the tent madle of tapa, whichi had heen set uip in ain open place in the sight of all the people. To her now came the pruince. brinio-ng with him his akula kaai. This was represented hy a short staff, on top of which was carvedl a figure representingT the dleity. The lower end was sharp to facilitate its being dlriven into the grouinl. 1-uin was the, name of one of the kaai godls wxvhose slpecial function it was to assist at chiildbirthi. The multitude of the people remainedl outsidle watching, the tent, and the assembled priests were uittering ineantat ions and praying- to the gods thiat the union of the two chiefs mighi prove fruitful. MANNIERS AND CUSTOMS 63 And when the child was born and could be reared to the (late of the ceremony, it was "the 1)roof to the girdle." The name of the Kau chief, IHIlumea-lani, the brother of Keawe-i-ke-kahi-aliio-ka-moku, was given because he was a selected child. The tabu, or tabu system, was the imposition of individual might over others, of a chief over lesser chiefs and colmmoners, of a king over his chiefs and all subjects, a system that became so powerfully organized with the aid of the priesthood, inspired l)y traditions and welded together bv dread through superstition, that it became one of the principal factors of the rule of the chiefs, and eventually regulated the lives anl llabits of the l)eople, a rule that was beneficial to the chiefs in that it enalle(l them to exercise their power and wvield their authority. The talu was a close merging of feudal and religious power. The downfall of the tabus was one of the stranllest of mlanl of the dramatic and tragic elements of life in Hlawaii, for it was never prophesied in the earlier history of the Islands, and therefore was like a thunderclap to the people when the year 1819, following the death of Kamehameha I, signalized its destruction. B3ut even then, it was not destroyed without a brief war of the clhiefs who still believed in the tabus. It was known in the history of the chiefs of the island of (ahu. how Mailikukahi and Kauakahiililani relinquished their rule of the government, and gave to the commoners the right to rule, and how they took the firstborn of all the commoners to bring up and have charge of. These two were known as "the good chiefs," but nothing in the genealogies shows that the Oahuans forsook the tabus. Again, perhaps the old chiefs were not under very strict tabus. It is said that the "hot" tabus. or those relating to human sacrifice, (lid not (late very far bacl. It was during the time of Kawelomakua and Kaawihiokalani that the burning of human beings was attempted as a sign of the strict tabu of the chiefs. This tabu was for the island of Kauai alone, and had descended to their heirs to the time of Kahamaluihi. It was Katakahikahahoowa who sent Kualonoehu to uphold the tabu of Kauai for Kahamaluihi, 64 UND)ER HAVAIIAN SKIES the grandmother. The tabu was passed on to Kualonoehu. This was the tabu penalty of burning hunlan bleings and the drowning of tlese victims as the decree was made. This was passed on to Kualli when Puowaina, or Punchbowl, the extinct crater which rises from the center of the city of Honolulu today, became a hill for the lurning of human beings. This was about three htundred and fifty years ago. Then this practice of sacrificing human beings on the paganl altars was extended to the island of Maui ill the time of Kalanikuihonoilkanmoku. NYlhen Keopuolani, a wife of Kamelhaneha I and mother of Kamelhaneha II, the only remainingl tabu chiefess, gave up the tal)l, her act was the deathl-knell of the tabu system, and she was given the assistance of tlhe mlost powerful chiefs. This was in 1819. On the Ilight of the death of Kamehallehla I, andl the next (lay and afternoon, tle wife ate the tabu cocoanut, for the very eatables were under the tabu and women were not permitted to partake of certain flesh andl fish foods and fruits. Certain of the male chiefs ate with her, for she said: "He who obeyed the god is now (lead; it is but right that we eat of the tabu things, and together." This eating toogether, or free-eating, was known as the "eatilng at the time of llourning." At the end of the periodl of mourning by the chiefs and commoners for the great chieftain, aid tlie unclean and defiled had been purified, because of the (lead bod(y of the king at Kailua, island of HIawaii, Queen Kaahuanlltl and hler primle minister, Kalanimoku, seit m-essenlgers to Lihollilo, the son, to take himl to Kailua, because lie had been sent out of tle Kona district to Kawaihae. In the belief of the Hawaiians, Kona was defiled by the dead body and his successor must renmain apart awhile. Lihlolilo informed Kekuaokalani, a chief, wllo afterwards led the rebelliol against Iilholiho to maintain tle ancient tabu, lhe would return. Kekuaokalani replied: "By the will of your father, only two of us were mentioned; the kingdom is to be yours, anld the gold mine. I am to look to yot and vou to me. Tell the messengers sent by your gulardians AIANNERS AND CUSTOMS 65 that we are not coming back, because it has been told us they are eating together-free-eating- at Kailua." Kaahumanu was informed of the refusal. Another messenger, a high chief namied Ieke, was sent to LIiholiho, and said to the latter: "O, ye king, I have been sent by your guardians to brill-n you back to Kailua, because there is to be a council of the chiefs and your guardians, to hear the will of your father. That is why I aml sent to blring- you back." Liholiho consented but informel Kekuaokalani, who still urged ilholiho to refuse to go or to consent to tle lreaking dlown of the tabus. Liholiho boardlel his canoe and sailed to Kailua. ()'i the following lda Kaahlumanu issued a proclanation announcing that Liholiho was the new kingl of the Islands. After tllis Keolpolani looked at Liholilio anll mnadle the motion of )puttinlg her lhand to her mouth, as a sign of free-eating'. This was a strange thin!g for this chiefess to (1) as she was a tabu cliefess, and it was for her these tabus hald leen mladle, and from tlese she ol)tained very high power. She alone hadl lthe power to inau-gurate tle mloevement to crlusl the tabus. In the afternoon of that dla Kaopuolani partool of food witlh Kauikeaouli. the yollulnger brother of IJiholiho and afterwarIds Kaimehanmeha III. At tlhis mieal she had no other compllally, for none of the chiefs dared to eat witlh lier because of the tabu. Liholiho, however, did nolt partake (of tle food, for lie still believedl le should follow the advlice of Kekuaokalani. The dla after the proclamation hla(l beel issuel, the king and his chiefs desired to -o to Ka\waihae for a rest, and also, because Kekialokalani was still there. W\hen they arrived they found Kekluaokalani still engaged in his religiots worship of the ancient go(ls. When the chiefs andl commoners saw tllis, they joineld hlim, alld again free-eating was tabue(l 1b tle chiefs an(l commni(oers. I)rinking and several forms of sport were indlulged in by the clhiefs while at Kawaihae. While tle chiefs and clhiefesses were at Kawxaihae the Urench warship l'Uranie arrived off the village en route from France to New Holland, it was reported. and on her was a Catholic pIriest. Kalanimoku was baptized, it is recor(led generally, l)y this priest UNDER HtAWAIIAN SKIES on lboard the vessel. John Young was the one who urged this baptism, because Kalanimokul had( asked himl as to the office held by the priest andl was tol(l that he was a priest of the "true God in heaven," andl belonged to the country where he had come from. Kalanimoku was tlhen baptized. John Young, however, came from near Liverpool, ]ng'lan(l, but shipped out on vessels from New York anld Philadelphia This has led to confolunding John Yo()ungl as all Amlerican. Later investigations have shown that there was another Jolhn Young- in the Islands, an American, and p)ossibly from New 1England. It is also said that Kalanimoku did not un(lerstan(l the rite of )baptism, but believed it to be a ceremony investing himl with some rank or office. Liholiho continued to practice the ancient religion. He and his chiefs went to HIonlokahau. where the king declared a tabu at the templle of his god andl remained there until the ceremonies were over. A mlesseng-er reacled him from Kaahumlanu, saying lie liad been instructed to say tlhat the "ti-leaf tabu is to be declared on your arrival at Kailla." The king held his head down, trying to make out tile reason of the ti-leaf tabu at the teimple of his god(. I-e (lecidled that the ti-leaf tabu was a sign that Kailua was to be released from any further tabus, and tlhat if any tabus were issuedt they wouldl le without power. 1le sailed for lKailua, not knowigll that a free-eating meal was being lrepare(l. The people saw the womenl drinkilng liquor, smoking tof O:lhu. 113 tile Iflc"lXIDr:,lbl bllttle Of &lle iiu-ulls -:tl%) i~r) It;Ts, IlriLlla wcs 124 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES to return to their habitats-the rainbow, the silvery clouds, and the thunder and lightning and the rain. Umihulumlakaokalani. the aged chieftain of the mountains, the grandfather of Kahaopulani, was guarding the mountain pass, and just as Naeole sIpe(l away he signalled that some one was coming toward the pass. Kahapulani p)laced the child (under the olona fiber, whilst l-iku, her mother, prayed that the child might not be found by Alapainui's men. The king's herald ran to the house and called out: "Have you seen a man carrying a bundle-a child?" Kahaopulani spoke up quickly: "Why, yes, he just ran down the other way; take that road (pointing) and you may overtake him." The danger was over. The babe was reared by the Awini chieftains, his only playmate being his foster sister, Kahakuakane, known as Kuakane. This was opposed to all Hawaiian tra(litionls, that a male child should suckle from the breast of a woman that had just borne a female child, but, evidently, it did not harm Kamnehamehla. The young chief's people taught him to be kind to every one, to call the passer-by to partake of food. As early as this period in his life the ceefs began to teach Kamlehameha the value of storing food for llis people, lessons that remlaine( with himi throughout his life, and were of great value (luring his campaigns, for, like Napoleon, he believed in the a(lage of the army mloving upon its belly. And so was preserved the life of one who was to "slay the chiefs." It all came to pass. lie did slay chiefs and their men. Hfe fought. He commanded troops, and conquered and beat (down Ills opponents one by one, his personal prowess being an examtple to every warrior. A l)ortion of a clhant that was revealed to Alapainuii, gentlv informing him of the existence of the babe Kamehaimeha, now grown up, and of whom the king seemedl to live in awe, follows: HAWAII'S I\IOMETUAIH 2 I Paica, the chief, is away in Awini, At liulaana, cliff of the Koace bird; The chieftain hill of Nakolokalani; Thie fleet herald chief is Hikuikekualoio 's. He is of the blazinig sun-of the crumblinig earth; The torch that gave warnith to the chief is from Awini; It is Calling to Kenhilal~alani, Whe rc dwells Unmtiiholuima-ka okalantii And his chiefta~ins who all reared Paiea, the chief. The rumnihlig heaven, The clash of the voice of u ikoa, The thundering hlack clouds. At Awini the cord was cot; At Keahialaka lie Partook of food;, 1KahaoPulanii's was the hreast Of the chiefly arching cocoantit of Kektiai~apoiwa that you all know; The brightest torch of life that. is livinga; The liieaven that horns 'a 1d( blazes o)1. This chant softened the wrath and allayedl the fear of Alapalimi, and hie sent for the boy to be brought home to him11. He1 was thenr ahont twelve vears 01(1. Hle was lbroulght to the court and the king welcomed him. Ile was given into the keeping of the Chiefess Keaka. and her sister I-lakati, the (laughters of Et1eulti, who, with their families taugtiol him athletic g-amles. Chants were composedl for him and then hie wvas taken to the tetiiple by) his uncles, Kameeiamokn and IKamanawa, and the ceremonies of dedicating the youth to lhe a warrior wvere perf ormed. The pigr that was offered for a sacrifice for this occasion was calledl H-amiauiku-ka-pntaa-i-ka-lnahla. Then the youing chieftain gav'e himself uip for a time to the pleasures of his uncle's royal court. Thiere the H-igh1 Chief Kekuhlaupio, the great warrior chief, took him inl hand and instructed hilm in all the martial exercises extant among the Hawvaiians. Later on, Kamehameha showed his strengyth, agility andl couiragye by taking hold of the 1)0(1y of the rebel chief of Pnina, Imakaloa, a chief under Kiwalao, and offering it up for sacrifice. For this reason hie left Kalaniopu'u'Us court. It is saidl that hie 126 126~U-N7DER HAWVAIIANN SKIES was adlvisedl ly his two uncles, the tWin warriors Kameeiamoku andl Kamanawa, also Keeauimoku, father of Kaahuimanu, who was to become a wife of Kamehameha. These three and another chief were his connsellors, Kameeiai-oku being hins genieral-inlchief. And so hie lived, a olominant figure in Hawaiian history fromt the, time that Captain C'ook (liscoveredl the Islands in 1778 until his death in 1819. No oiie kniows where Kamehameha the G'reat sleeps the sleep of eternity. Ltndlonbtedlv\ the last restfing place of his h.ones is in a cave at Kihiolo, on the western coast of the island of Hawaii. Hoolnlnt, the chief wvho concealed the hones, once weakened, it is said, an(l wvas about to reveal the hidhiig place to one of the suiccecliilg I111amehamelhas, but the king came to him with all his retinue, so Hoolnilu remarked to him: ''Thon shalt not see thy father," and the p)lace of conceal — ment was never revealed. Of all the members of the royal families of the Kamehameha and Kalakania (lynasties only the bones of Kamehanmeha ai-e tinaccoulntedl for, for they rest in the secrecy of a caveN7, pirobab~ly with those of his forefathers. K-amehiamehia was called "Pplaaaknaloha," by Kaahnmanni, his qneen, an(l lby that name only- by her. Upon the solid einpi re founded and~ fostered by Kamehiameha the G reat, whose owvn (lynasty lasted until 1872, or even to 1874. wheni Lunalilo, king, dlied after a year's reign. and through that of iKalakatia which endured until 1893, what hias been builded? Unknown to them that IKamehameha I was dleadl, that very ye~ar the first band of New England missionaries left Boston for the Sandwich -islands, as Hawvaii was then kniown. They anrrived at Ka-,ilua, Ilaxv;ajii, in the spring of 1820, and were g-iven a wvelcm.They lbronghlt with them the printinig-press as well as the Blible. Thecy erected churches and schoolhouses, and createdl a writteni languagre anid piriinted it on their missionary presses. the first ever brought into the Pacific. They shaped the laws of the kiiigs an(I chiefs and gave them the outward semblance of the laws of civilized countries. They fostered parliamneitary HA\VA W.IIS M( )MNENTOUS NIGHJT 17 1 -) lprocedllre; they established trade relations between H-awaji and foreign conntries, and aided the king and hins counciliors to estal)hish (liplomatic relations with other nations. Hawaii became the mecca of shiipping in the Pacific andit tradle grew in importance. Close relations were maintained between H —awail and the United States early in nissionary days. Hawaiians served in the whaling fleets, were among the first to hnurry to California when news of the gold rnsh reached the Jslandls. They served in the Union arm-ies in the Civil W'ar in the United States, as thiev did in the Spanish W~ar and the Worldl \Var. Commerce became an all-important feature. During the reign of the Kamehamehas a Reciprocity Treaty between 1i-Iawaii and the Unitedl States was urged, whiMch wvas concluded, xvith happy and favorable indlustrial results to Hawaii l)v Kalakatia. Destiny (Irove the Islands into the safe harbor of the United States, a remarkable little nation, whiose iildepevidence had been safeguarded through-lout anaiy tempestuous (lecadles. The Hawaiian flag, which Kamehiamehia the Gireat gazedl uipon as it flew over the fort lie established in Honolulu in 1816, still floats over the Islands, andl over the former royal palace, now tile territorial executive building-, but now only- as tile territorial staildardl. Haxvaii as a whole, was absorbed into tile gTreat Amlerican relpublic as the lesser k1"ingdoms had been absorbed into tile greater monarcily, by IKaneleamelba, who welded tileil into an empire. Thle question of tile exact age of K-amehamehia, lparticularly thle year of his birth, is (lifficuilt of solution. Tle ilative historiail IKamakaui stated more than IlaIf a ceiltury ago, that Kailehameha was born in.1736, hence, at hIls (leatil, lie must Ilave been (83 yvears 01(1. 'ibis would make hlim 43 at tile time of Captain Cook's arrival in 1778, and 58 wilen Vailcouver visited the Islands in 1794. According to tilis data Ilis majesty ulis't llave beein 78 years 01(1 wilen Ilis son, Kailellameha III (Kauikeaouli), was born in Auigust, 1813. \With all defereilce to Kamakauis intiilate kinowledge of ailcieit Haw~aiiail Iistory, hlis selection of 1736 as tile lbirth yvear of Kamellamella mlust bie in 128 128 u~tNIER HA-WAIIAN SKIES error. It would be a more correct Statement to say Kamehamehia was born in 1753. Th'ils would make himn 25 when Cook arrived. As (leath lloveredl over Kamehiameha hie called to the Hfigh Chief Uliumaheiheci Hloapili, eldiest son of Kamleeiamoku., and w~,hislperedl to him: "Thou must conceal miy bones; the family that concealed mly father K1~Ieonia's b)ones, betray-ed the hiding place." And so Hoapili, assistedl by his younger hal f-brother H1ooluin, carriedl out tile wish of the great leader, whose iburial cave is one of tile llisolvedl mysteries of I-Iawaiian history. iKanmhamehia was justly entitled to tile sobriquet of Great. li-e is riglhtly entitiedl to a place amiong leaders of the civilized ilations as a g-reat geileral and a wise sovereignl. "Kotzebnie's 'Voyage of Discovery" 1815-1818, lmlblislhed in 1.820, relates extremely enlighltening incidlents of the visit of tile Russian exploring silip Riurick, with Lieutenant Kotzebue ill comilland, tile vessel calling at tile HawNaiian Islands in 1816. Ani astonlislliig array of facts is presentedl in a grapilic, interes t i ilg and~ clarmiliil manner 1iw the Rossian concerningo ilis meetinogs witll Kailleianleha I, xvhom hie caliedl "tile celebr~ate(1," anid of tue modern civilizatioll wilici alreadv had obtailedl a foot1101( fouir vears before tile arrival of the messeilgers of tile Gospel ill 1820. T'ilere appears to ibe a p~revatlenlt opinion tilat prior to tile arrival of tile New Eilglaild missioilaries tile Islailders were 'steeipe( ill Sill and~ (larkiless;" that the Isla11(s, wilile hlavinlg emierged from lbarbarisml, were vet without tile pale of civilizatiori, and~ that they had -arrivedl in a lanl (levoidl of mlodlerilsill and still Suink (leel) ill tile isolatioll of seldom visitedi and reilote grouips of islands. iKotzebue, lhowever, tells of hiaving visited ill many one-story Ilouses of white Stone, possilbly co-ral, coilstructed in tile European ilaie. I'lle fashions of Europe and( Chiina were led ob secil in lHolnoluln andl even at Kailnia, for Joiln Yonig's wvife hle was all Englisbillan and~ sile a HaL-waiian). wore a dress of l~tirolean, cuit and made from costly Cilina silks. HAWATI'S MOM\)ENTOUS NIGHT Kamehameha invited Kotzebue to a large and comfortable house of foreign construction, which was furnished with a handsome table and miany chairs, and there poured wine for his distinguished guest from St. Petersburg. The Island monarch, according to Kotzebue, p)ossessed many handsome uniforms of European cut which he wore on different occasions, suitable to the rank of his visitors froml abroal. Thus, Kotzebue cleaves the prevalent opinion that Hawaii was still a land of savagery. But for a quarter of a century many wlhite men, Englishmen and Americans, had resided in the Islands, several in the service of the king. Ships of war, of discovery and the merchant marine often dropped anchor and officers were entertained by the king and he, in turn, aboard the ships, thus affording this renlarkable monarch an opportunity to learn European customs. Kiotzelbue, in many portions of his book, confirms the fact tlat much foreign. civilization was prevalellt, even to the fact that Kamehameha spoke English to a slight extent, and was familiar with the names of monarchs and affairs in other parts of the world. The explorer, sailing along the coast of Hawaii, anchored at Tocahai (Kawaihae) bay, an(l there "we now saw John Young's settlement of several houses built of white stone after the European fashion." At Kailua, Kotzebue went ashore at the king's invitation and went to his settlement, where, anmong the straw houses were also houses of stone, again repeating "after the European fashion." A number of Islanders, armed with muskets, were lined up) on shore. The king personally met the Russian at the landingi place. "I now stood at the side of the celebrated Kamehameha, who had attracted the attention of all IEurope, and who inspired ime with the greatest confidence bvl his unreserved and friendly behavior," the Russian wrote. In the king's palace, "they offered us European chairs, very neatly made, and placed a mahogany 130 130 ~UTN'DER HAW'AIIAN SKIES talble before us. Though the kiug has houses built in Europeau tashion, lie prefers his simple (iwelling,' Kotzebue added. 'tKamehameha's (iress, which consisted of a white shirt, blute lpantaloons, a red wvaistcoat and a colored ueckcloth, Surprised mie very much, for I had formed very different notionis of the royal attire," contiuiues the uavigator. "HIe, however, somtetimeCs (lresscs very splendidly, havingl several eiiibroilered uniforms." Now listen to this (liscussion of the I-Iawaiian kingdom- and its affairs, by this Kaiimehamnieha the Great, this ruler of an insular ancl isolatedl state, as recorded l)y l\ot zelhue: "I learn that you are comnmanler of a ship-af-war and are engagedl in a voyage similar to those of Cook and Vancouver, and consequently, (0o not engage in tradle. It is, therefore, my intenition, not to carry on with von, but to provide you gratis with everythinig that miy islanis produce. I now beg you to inform ue, whether it is with the consent of your emperor that his subjects b~eganll to dlisturlb mie in my ol0d age `" (Referring to a Russian visit a short timie before, when a vessel in command of a Dr. Schieffer causedl nmuch troutble by the hoisting of the Rtussian flag, bnillding of forts and otherwvise in\vading the islands.) The king continuedl "Since iKaiiiehaiimeha has been khing of tlese Islands, no European has had cause to complain of havino(T suffered injustice here. I have maile my islands an asylum for all nations, and hnnestly supplied with provisions every ship that (lesiredl them. Som~etime ago there camie fronm Sitka some Russians, a nation with whom I never head intercourse b.efore. They vere kindly received, buIt ill-rewardled m ie anl threatened us with ships-of-war w1hich. were to conquer these islandIs, but this shall not happen as long as Kanmehamieha lives!'' Kotzebue states that Kamiiehamecha conversed mainly through his interpreter-, a young itvan named Cook, with a vivacity stirprishig at his age, asked various questions respecting Russia, an(1 madle wvise observations. The navigator was witness to miany evidences of Kamehamieha's (lesire to be a part of the big world, bv the number of JIAWAJIS AI1A\IIENTOUS NIGHIT 11 I 1) ships in his service. He saw a large European barge at the shore, and later saw the little warship Kaahumanu. The kingy exerted himiself to draw Eiurop~ean shipwrights fromt abroad or fromt visiting ships, to enter his employ, and paid them liberally for their instruction in boat building. Tiis ruler, who believed in godls of wooi and stolne; who, when he bowed to the idols upon his near-by heiau, turnedl to Kotzeblue and said: "These are our gods, whom I worship; whether I (10 right oc)r wrong, I (l0 not know; but I follow my faith, which cannot be wicked, as it commands me to (l0 no wrong." This extraordinary pliilosolphy caused Kotzebue to studx the king, with renewed iiiterest and increasing admiration. "This declaration, fromt a savage who had raisedl himself 1b his own native strength of min-d to this degree of civilization. indlicated much soundi seiise, anld inslpiredl iie with a certain eniotion." It wvas shortly after this interview that Kotzebue met Captain (-;eorg,,e Bleckley, the Englishman, in the train of Kamechamehia, at Oahu. I.The H-ig-oh Chief Kalanimnoku, governor of the islamd, designated Captain Becklev to accompany the navigator on a tour of Oahu. lKotzebue met Becklev at the new fort which Iohn Young and Kalaninioku built at Honolulu by ordler of Kamehamelha, Beckley having been chosen as its first commandant, aiinl over which was flown the Hawaiian flag, said to have been (Icsigned by Beckley. The Russian was halted in true fortress sty-le byv sentries on duty at tlhe main gatewiay. The navigator also refers to Becklevs house at which lie called. which was built of stone in modern style. The officers wvent to Moanalna and to the salt lake, just beyond the village of 1Honolulu, where ILeckley, accordiiig- to Kotzebue. showed that lie had been accnstoiied to shooting in Eturope, for lie spoke of the migyrations of certain (lucks, the Russian savincy "this information, which I cotld not doubt, as Beckley, froni his love of the chase, often renaiis for days on this lake, ledl iie to suppose 132 132 V-NIDER HAWAIIAN SKIES there nmust lbe some undiscovered land in about latitude 45 degrees whence these birds of passage came." On leaving IHlonolulu the Ritrick salited Kalanimoku with seven guns, and Captain Beckley, at the fort, did not neglect to retnrn this lpoliteness. The Euiropean custom that (lay, Decemher 14, 18161, had been intro(Incedl into the Sandwich Islands. "Iet gYave me much Ileasure to be the first European who had exchianged salutes with a fort there, and when H-onolulu has once become a flonrishing city, peolile may say the Russians have consecrated onr fort, alli its first shot was fired in honor of their Liiiimeror, Alexaiider the First," saitl Kotzebue. Th1 i e ob1ject of these quotations from K~otzelbues journal is to (elunmostrate the fact that Kamehameha the Great was a superior ivian, who was fairly well acquainted with the ways of civilization, the names of rulers and conditions in far off countries - with the use of civilized apparel; with modlern houses and furnishings; with the official ceremon-ies of foreign nations; was all adNvocate of a merchant marine for hiis kingdom; unlderstoodl the English language: had a l-iuropean (loctor; nglish a(IviserS_ in military and naval science antd in navig-ationi; that some of the I iawaiian women alreadly use(i E uropean costumes, Ithat silks anld emhroideries antd costly ftrnishincs such as four-poster beds had long been imported into IslamI ports from China that there had a-lrealv lcbeen theatrical perfornmances as early as 1809, the play- Iheing) a -version of a popular (lrama recently enacted in London, anid that the Ia[aiiajin wife of a prominent Englishman had essayedl the principal female role; that on the walls of the homnes of some of the Eturopean resilents there hung beautiful pictures, paintings for the miost part, many of which were brought to 11[onolntlu from Mexico, some even from0 old Spanish churches of Latin American cities, and wxhich today are believed to be imlasterlpieces. On-ie of them was a Madonna and Child, a remarkatble painting that may have been the hprodllct of the brush of a great Florentine mnaster. Realin g Ibetvecii the lines Of Kotzebuie's hook, the Russian innocently indlicates that Kamehameha was a crafty and a brilliant HAWAII'S MOMENTOUS NIGHT 13 133 dliplomat. JKotzebue, himself, was lulled into security_ by Kamehameha's splendid hospitality. Although he (lid not understandl, lie was bein(g constantly watched, for Kamehameha and his pe'ople hadl been seriouslv used by Dr. Scheffer's expedition two A-ears before. Therefore, Kamehameha did not see Kotzebue until lie had hiad many reports from trusted chiefs. When Kotzebjue invited the kcing to go aboard the Rir-ick, the kino remarked that hie wotld be pleased to do so but his chiefs would not permit him; antl when Kotzebue left Hawaii for Honolulul he was accompanied by Mannia, a confidlential mnessenger, ostensibly as a, guile, but actually to carry Kamehameha's secret instructions to Kalainimoku, governor of Oalu, to k~eep close watch. Wheii a boat alPproachedl the RTirick from shore, Maannia leaped overlboard, met the boat which tuirned and took him quickly to the shore, the quicker to see the governor. li Hotonolulu were Kamehamilieha's most trusted men-Kalanimoku, Johln Young, Captain Beckley, Captain Adams, and Kekuianaoa. It is significant. that K-otzebtie was halted wvhen he endeavored to enter the nexv fort, and that Beckley, or another mian in the kciing's service, wvas always in attendance upon the v,-isitor. Kotzebtue saw only what was pleasing anld so wrote, hut he vas a Russiani just as I)r. Scheffer was, and therefore must be kept mlider observatioll every miitute. Everything that Kamehameehia did, r-'vealed th truie, even crafty, diplomat, as' kteen as any of a foreign land. KaIehamehila had even sta(ged a shamii battle betweeni fighting forces to shiow thleir skill in tlhe use of ancient and modern armnis, hilmself able to catch several spears and javelins thrown at him as thouighl in battle. h)ut it was (one withi a ptirposc-of giving Kotzebue aln ilea that in the event of a clash between the Rus. sialls, and the H-fawaiians, the latter were lrep"aredl to give ay account of themselves. But Kotzebuie niever dreamed he wvac an object of suspicion, or that the mimic battle was staged, not as a mere enitertainment, btut to serve a (leep (liplomatic purlpose. (i ne observation manle by Kamehlamehia at this time gives an insighCllt into his mental attitutle. Hie had enitertainedl the RRussians 134 1UN4 I) ER HAWAIIAN SKIES at dinners in European style, and then partook of food himself in Hawaiian style. He remarked: "I have been watching the Russians eat; now you can watch Kamehameeha eat. I will not change my mode of living." The voyage of Captain Cleveland to Hawaii in 1803 was notable for many things, one of which is that he brought the first horses to Hawaii as a gift to Kamlehameha. Another circumstance is related by the captain that appears to be of vital importance in the history of Christianity in Hawaii. Very little credit has hitherto been given to the early foreign residents in the Islands, prior to the advent of the missionaries, and if Cleveland is to le credited, lthe first Protestant clerTgyman resident in Hawaii was an English Episcopalian, who, for a time residled with Kanmehallmeha. Capt. Cleveland's account is quoted in full: "As our intercourse with these islands increased, the (danger of a temporary residence on shore ceased. Among others who at this early period took advantage of it was a AMr. Howell, coimmonly called 'Padre Howell,' who soon ingratiatedl himself into favor with the king, and being struck with his sul)erioritv of intellect, conceivedl tlat it would not be difficult to in(luce him to abanldon his idolatrous worship) and substitute one of rationality. Accordingly, he lost no opportunity, after ac(-!uiring a sufficient knowledge of the lalguage, to convince the chief of the incapacity for good or evil of his gods, and of the power and wisdlom1 and( goodness of the Supremie Maker and Ruler of the Universe, whom lie worshipped. "The first, that of the inmpotency of the idols, was without difficulty admitted, but the second, not being tang-ible, could not be comprehended. His mind, however, appeared to be dwellilng on the subject with increased attention after each conversation. At length, one day, while walking together, tle king unusually thoughtful, and Ilowell arguing favorably from it, the silence was broken by the king observing, 'You say your God is powerful, wise, good, and that HIe will shield fronm harm those who truly worship and adore Him?' This being assented to, tlen said the king, 'Give me proof by throwing yourself from vonder HAWAII'S MOMAENTOUS NIGHT 135 precipice, and while falling, call upon your God to shield you, and if you escape unharmed, I will then embrace the worship of your God.' It may be unnecessary to say that Howell failed to give the desired test, and the king remained unconverted." (1flA1PTER NJ DARING N AV'IG-ATIORS FOLLOWED COOK KAMEL.,IAAM~lIAL 1)ETAINS WHITE VISITORS 11ERR" is a period Iin 1-awajian histo-,ry which Is largely (levotedl to the narration of the feats of generalship 111and the conquests of Kame1hameha 1, hut little is saidI albout the visits of foreigners, following the ill-fated visits of C.ook Iin 1788-1789 upl to 1792 when Capt. George Vancouver, the EFnglish nlavigator, arrive(I, andl two years later made a friendly compact wvith the kingy who was then planning the conqunest of the islands of (Oahu, Kauai and Niihan, the former bl eiCY colnqnered Iin 1795. t.here are many liotahle na-vigators In this list wkho made cornlprellensive survevs of the Islands and then made the resources of the gronp known to the world. At varions times Englishmen and A~mericans, and eventnallv, Spaniards and Frenchm~en, as well as representatives of other races-, settled in the Islands~-, forming a group~ that, Iin the opinion of some, historical researchers, (li(l. mntch to stimulate friendly relations hetween the king andl hIs powerfnl chiefs with navigators. Suich was the impression fiale npon the civilizedl world hy the tragic (leath of Captain Cook that no foreign1 vessel touchedl at the Islandls for more than seven years. Du ring this interval the island of Hawaii was rent into three independent, petty kingydoms, while all the other islands were brongh-lt nnder the sway of King Kahekili, and his ibrother Kaeo. After Cook's (leath his flagship, the Resolution, under commandl of Captain Clerke, accompanied 1w the Discoz'cr-', uinder commandl of Captain Gore, sailed along the souithernl side of Mauli, Kahoolawve andl Lanai islands, adtecrsing heMo DARING NAVIGAT(ORS FOLLO(E)\1'VI) C(O)(OK 137 lokai channel sailed along the windward shore of Oalhn. Both ships anchored off the village of \Vaimea, Oahu, and Captains Clerke and (ore, together with Mr. King, landed there on Februtary 27, 1779. They were the first white men to land onl Oahn. The same (lay they sailed for Kauai, and after a short stay there, saile(l for the smlall island of Niihau to westwar(l, and then proceededl on their voyage sotthliward. The first visitors to the islands after the dleparture of Cook's vessels were La Peronse, the French navigator, who touched at Mali for one (lay and the British ships Kinl Gcoro'e, under Captain Nathaniel Portlock, and the Quncci C(ihurlotte, uender Captain George I)ixon. After visiting H[awaii they sailed lown the group, and on May 31, 1786, arrived off ()ahu, anchorinog in the hay between M[alkapttu Ploint, where now is located the most powerful lighthlouse light in the Pacific Ocean, and Koko Head, now the site of the receiving plant of the Radio Corporation of America. The narrative of Captain Cook drew attention to the profits that might be made by )purchasing furs from the indians on the northwest coast of America with pieces of iron, beads, blankets, etc., and selling them for cash in the Canton marlet. A\ccordingly, several expeditions were immediately fitted out in different ports of the world to engage in this lucrative trade. In 1785 certain merchants of Londlon formed a coimpany undicr the title of the King George's Sound Comp)any for the purpose of carrying on the fur trade from the western coast of America to China, and engaged to bring home cargoes of tea for the East India Company. The company Ipurchased and fitted out two ships, the King Gcorgec of 320 tons, and the Queenl Charlotte of 200 tons, givinll command of the larger vessel to Captain Portlock and that of the smaller one to Captain Dixon, lboth of whom had served undler Captain Cook on his last voyage. They sailed from England in September, 1785. After a voyage of six months their sutpply of water running short, and the scurxv having broken out on both ships. they first ma(le for the supposed g-roup of "los MLonjes." laid dlown on the old Spanish chart. 138 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES Not finding this group (whicl was no doubt the Hawaiian group, but wrongly charted, and placed ten or fifteen degrees east of their true position) they ran down lefore the trade wind to Hawaii. Tlhe vessels arrived off the coast of Kau, island of Hawaii, on May 24, 1786, rounded South Point and then stood to northward, trading with the natives at various bays for hogs, vegetables and fishing lines. They noticed at night a great number of fires lighted along the shore, probably to alarm the coutltry, and on anchoriing in Kealakekua Bay, the ships were immediately surrounded by multitudes of natives in canoes. As the Islanders became insolent and troublesome, according to the accounts of the captains, and no chief appeared with sufficient authority to keep them in order, Captain Portlock decided to leave as soon as possille. He had learned from the people that IKalaniopuu, the late kingt, was (lead, and that Kamehameha reigned in his stead. Captain Dixon states that all their chiefs were absent, engaged in war with those on Maui, probably in the canmpaign il which the Hawaii warriors were expelled from East MIaui. In order to get room for his men to work in untmooring the ship, Captain Portlock was obliged to scare them away by firing off six four-pounders and six swivels, with blank charges; at the same time tabooing the ship by hoisting a white flag at the main-top-gallant-mast head. This had the desired effect antl enabled them to iunmoor and get under xway for Oahu wit!out molestation. Onl June 1, 1786, they anchored in,Waialae Bay, between Koko HTead and Diamond H-ead, which Captain Portlock named King (eorge's Bay. There they remained four days buying water by the calabash full, at the rate of a sixpenny nail for a two-gallon calabash full,;and in this way oltained over thirty tons of water. Kahekili, the king, who was then residing at Waikiki, sent them presents but did not go aboard. Capt. Portlock noticed that nearly all the iron daggers sold by Captain Cook were in possession of Kalekili's warriors, which proved that they had defeated the Hawaii people in war, perhaps in the reconquest of Hana, M aui. DA-RINrG NAVIGATORS FOLLOWLI) COOK 139 Diamond Head was christened Point Rose, in honor of George Rose, secretary of the British treasury, anl second patron of the voyage; and Barber's Point was nam-ed Point Banks in honor of Sir Joseph Banks; while the bay lbetween them was name(l Queen Charlotte's Bay, and Koko [lead nanied Point Dick,, in honor of Sir John Dick, first patron. On their way to the northvest Pacific coast they visited Niihau, remaining about i week, procuring table supplies, which were sent from W -aimea by Kaeo, king of Kaauai, in return for ipreselts. In Hawaiian tralition these ships are known 1y the niame of "Lol," allrl are said to heave broughylit the first heads. While Portlock anl Dixonl were slowly cruising along the western coast of Hawaii, the celebrated French navigator, La Perouse, with two frig-ates, La Boiissohl antil Lis[rsfr/b, touched at Ilonuatila, L7ast Maui, May 28, 1786. He had closely fdllowedl on thieir tr-ack<, sailing over the sul)lposedl p)osition of Los Moniljes. aiid runninug (e west for 20 degrees until he sigdhted Elast Maui. I-le then coasted along IKipalhluti anl Kauipo. which are at the foot of the giant extinct crater of H-Ialeakala (The I[ouse of the SunmIm, and aiicloredl off Keoneoio, IHlonnaulk. where lie remainedl a (lay, purchasing 100 hogs anitid a large quantity of vegetables, besides sev-eral feather helmets aiid cloaks. La Perouse lanlded and visitedl sev-eral villages, acconmpl~anied bhv a few officers anti a scquad of marines. Hle praises the peaceable and orderly conlduct of the nativ-es. Then lie sailed for Alaska. Captains I- ortlock and Dixon. after cruising along the North American coast fromt Cook's Inlet to Nootka Sound with in(lifferent success, left that inhospitable shore and sailed agailn for Hawaii, which they saw Novembn1er 15, 1786. Next (lay they cruised alongo the coast of Kohala, Hawaii island, trading~ with the natives and p)urclhasing sulpplies. On the waay to Oalu. they lpick-edl up- a canoe with four mnen, all exhausted', and then l'roceedledl to their ol0( anchorage in King G-eorgees Bay-, wx-here they found everything tabooed until King Kahekili head ai(d them a visit of state, in a very large canoe, atteni-ded by a number of 140 lUNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES high chiefs. They laid in a large supply of food, water and firewood, in exchange for nails and buttons. Captain Portlock said Kahekili frequently ate with them, but he could not be persuaded to touch wine or spirits, nor did he ever use awa, a drug ma(e from the root of a shrub, but always (rank water. Meanwhile, Captain Portlock sent a party to make the first survey of Waikiki Bay. It was then that "Towanooha," whom he described as one of the attendants and awa chewers of the high priest and the king, gave Portlock the information that to the westward of Point Rose, in Queen Charlotte's Bay there was an exceedingly snug harbor where the ships might lie with safety. Portlock understood the natives to mean the district of Waikiki. The party was gone three (lays. Mr. Hayward, the chief officer, reporte(l that the guide conducted him to Queen Charlotte Bay where he "found a small bay with very deep water, close to a san(ly 1)eacll where the natives generally landed with their canoes, lbut no place for a ship to ride in with safety; adjoining the l)each a beautiful valley, surroulnded by fine groves of coco:tnut trees, a town where the king generally resided, and called Waikiki." Some investigators regard this as pro(bably the first knowledge of what is now I-Ionolulu harbor, although Portlock's inference, by calling the district Waikiki, seems to mean just the locality now known as Waikiki beaclh, for the kings always had their headquarters there, and there was then as now a fine grove of cocoanuts. One historian goes so far, therefore, as to sugo-est that credit for (Iscovering H-onolulu harbor be given to Mr. Haywar(l of the ship Kingt (;Iorg'0,. I-[owever, most historians agree on Captailn Brownl, commallder of the English ship Jackal, as the discoverer of HTonolulu hliarbor, in 1794. Capltains Portlock and Dlixon left Oahu for Kauai, and sailed for the northwest on March 2, 1787. Meanwhile, another company had been formed at Bengal, In(ia, and two vessels were fitted out for the fur trade, viz., the Nootka, a snow of 200 tons blurden, commanded by Capt. Meares, DARING NAVIGATORS FOLLOWED COOK 141 and the Sca Otter, a sloop of 150 tons, under Capt. Tipping. They sailed from Calcutta March 2, 1786, and Capt. Meares arrived off Alaska in the following August. He met with poor success in buying furs, and having failed to meet his consort, the Sea Otter, he unwisely decided to spend the winter at Prince William's Sound. Twenty-three of the crew died of scurvy and cold. In May, 1787, they were found hy Portlock and Dixon. Portlock had his carpenter calk and repair the Nootka and her long boat, furnished Meares with provisions and two seamen for the return to China. Captain Meares spent the following August at Kauai, where he was hospitably treated. He says, "They received us with joy, and saw us depart with tears." From Portlock and Dixon's accounts, however, thev seemed to have quarreled with Kaeo and Opunui' s party, and to have fired on them. The High Chief Kaiana, who was later to figure as a so-called traitor to Kamehameha the Great, who was not bildden to the famous Council of Chiefs on Molokai in 1793, and who lost his life fighting Kamehameha in Nuuanu Valley, Oahu, in 1795, sailed with Meares for China. He left on September 2, 1787. The vessel was wrecked in Octol)er in a typhoon at Typa, near the mouth of the Canton river, but all hands and cargo were save(l. Kaiana, who is believed to have been tile first Iawaiian to go abroad, remained several months at Canton, and was very kindly treated by the foreign resi(lents, witl whlom he was a great favorite. When he first saw the ships at Whampoa, his astonishment baffled description an(l he called them the "Islands of Britannee." His portrait was painted at this time, in which he is represented as wearing a feather cloak and helmet anl holding a spear. An engraving from it appears ini Meares' narrative. Captain Meares says Kaiana (Taiana) "was about 32 years of age; lhe was nearly 6 feet 5 inches in stature, and the nuscular form of his limbs was of Herculean appearance. Iis carriage was replete with dignity. * * * He wore the dre:s of Europe with the habitual eas<. of its inhalitants; and he not 1 42 142 li~UNIER HA:/\WAIIAN SKIES only learned the use and arrangements of its various articles, lbnt appliedl his knowledge to the uniform and most minute practice of personal cleanliness and decorumn. *** I ortlock say-s that "Tiana, though no Iprofessedl Papist, would frequently gro to lplaces, of (livine worship at Macao, and always olbservedl the manner, miotion)is and attitudles of the congregation1, sta1ndng- or kneelin as they (lid." However, it is said that he retuirned to Hawaii as much of a heathen as before. Meainw;hile, the Khig Gcorc/e and Qiteen Charlotte, after relieving Captaini Meares in May, 1787, separated from each other,-. the Ouccit ChIarlotte lproceeding (lowil the Americani coast to Queen Charlotte's Island, inamedl after the ship. There in August, 1 787, Captain Dixon miet two small vessels fitted out lby their company in Londlon, viz., tlhe Pr;ince of Wales, Capt. Colnett, and the Pirincess Roya~l, Capt. Duncan, a sloop of only fifty tons'. They also heard of a ship called the intperial Eagfle, Capt. Barclay,I froil nLIoud(on, which had left Engl10and in November, 1786, and arrivedl before the Prin-ce of Wales. Capt. B~arclay (liscov-I eredl the Straits of San Juian (le Fuca, and sailed for China,, touichingc at the Sandwich Islands on the way-. Hie was accoml.panied Iwy his wife, who took,1 a H-awaiian girl called "Wvniiee possibly wahinie, meianing womiani), wvith her to Canton, in 1787. Captain T:ixon then steered for the Islands, arri-in8g off Ilawaii September.5. 1787. lie ran (lown to his 01(1 station at W~aialae, )ahu. He sailed for K\-.auai arriv6ing 20 (lays after the (leparture of Capt. Mfeare-s. TIwo (lays later hie sailed for Macao, China. The K~ino Geo rge, Capt. P~ortlock, remained somie time at Prince Williamiis Souind, andl arriNve( at 1I lawaii for the thirdl time on Septemiber 28, three wNeeks later than the Oneen Charlotte, whenl hie drov-e a brisk tradle for fowls, pigs andI other supplies and~ lproceedled to WNaimiea, Kauai, and thence to Niihau, where the kinga was visiting. The chief, Opuinti, senit a messenger in a~ canioe to W~aimiea, for a lette- which. Capt. D~ixon had left for Capt. Portlock, and (leliveredl it to him ine about thirty-six hours. Capt. Portlock writes feelingly of the olppression of the commonpeople by the chiefs, of which hie was ai w~itness. He left Niihatu IARING NAVIGATORS FOLLOWED C()()O, 143 October 7th and arrived at Macao November 21st. Ile then sailed for England, after selling his furs, with a cargo of tea belonging to the East India Company. In January, 1788, Capt. Meares and others at Callton, purchased and fitted out two vessels naled the Felicc and Ipltigenlia, the former of 230 tons, commanded by M\eares himself, and the latter of 200 tons, commanded by Capt. Douglas. The crews consisted of Europeans and Chinese in equal proportions. Henry Cox and others who were interested in Kaiana, put on board of each ship six cows, three bulls, four calves, besides a number of goats, turkeys, pigeons, etc. Several lime, orange and other trees were purchased and put on board together with an assortment of useful articles for Kaiana. Besides Kaiana, Capt. Douglas took as passengers a man and a boy from Maui, and "Wynee," who died at sea. The two ships sailed January 2, 1788. Unfortunately, they did not sail direct for the islands, but to the northwest coast, and all the livestock (lied or were slaughtered for meat. At Nootka Sound it was decided to build a sloop of 50 tons. Kaiana was interested in this work, and when she was launched, clapped his hands anl exclaimed, "Maaitai M ("Good! Good!") The Fclicc arrived at Hawaii, October 18, 1788, and lay off near Kawaihae, trading for hogs of which more than 400 were purchased in a few hours. A high chief came off in a canoe and exchangedl presents, and Meares,gave him the latest political news. Kaiana, so Meares informed him, would soon return t:) the islands in another ship, and that he had a present for Kamehameha. This present was formally given in the presence of the natives, and a tabu placed on it until delivered to the king. I-le then sailed for \Vaimea, Kauai, but found all communication with his ship was forlidden. Two of Kaiana's friends, however, came off secretly to the ship and( said that Kaeo was tunder the influence of Kaiana's deadly enemy, Optnui; that Kaiana was threatened with death if he should land, and that his brother Namakeha, was in danger of his life. By these men Meares 144 UNDER t-AWAIIAN SKIES sent a present to Kaialnas wife and brother. Then he sailed for Niihau. Hle sailed for China October 27, 1788. The Iphir;nia sailed from No)otka Sounid, il comnpany with the new schooner, North ncest itecrica., (ctober 27, 1788. Kai ata had no0w been absent for fifteen months, and was universally popular with the seamen of both ships. As he approached his native land, however, he becamte grave andl anxious about "oter dayss and gttve Hlawais a h sivain ahs, sts p oidd at }heiiie for ['is and n omtosers. the reception hle wo nul receive. T'hey approached Hana, Mani A brother-in-law of Kaiana came out in a canoe. Tlhey proceede to Kealakekua Bay, where Kinamehameha came off in Ig 1 - with a fleet of twelve large dioble canoes. beautifully adorned with feathers, and was honored with a salute of seven guns. Aftercrig ovei r aiana for somie time, Kamlehalmehla ptresented Capt. Douglas with a i mosi t beautiful fan andll two long feather cloakEs. IIe professed the warmest frien i and exchanged inamies wiith hiunm. lWhen Kaian ex ilaiiec to Kanlmehamleha the marnler in which the Nortlhwest Almerica htad been built, he entreateel that a carpenter might lbe left with him to assist Kaiana in building an 1DARING N A\VIGATORS F()LLOW\ED COOK 145 other vessel like it. The next (lay the captains of both vessels accompanied Kamehalneha and Kaiana on shore. There was a great demonstration, a wonlderful feast, or luau, much chanting. The natives were tabued to their houses when the visitors went out for a walk so that they might not be molested. Kaiana had decidled to enter the service of Kamehame ha, who gave him a large tract of land where lie could live secure from his enemies on Kauai. Accordingly, his treasures were brought on deck, consisting of saws, lhatchets, gimlets, adzes, knives, cloth of various kinds, carpets, Chinaware, and ten bars of iron, and sent ashore in five canoes. Capt. Doug-las declares that Klamehameha took pains to inform him that "Kalaniopuut was poisoned for havilng incited the na — tives to mnurder Capt. Cook," which, of course, according to historialls, was false. Kanehalmellha, according to Ml-eares, appears to have been an object of fear rather than of love among his sul)jects. The fphlycmia proceeded to MaIi and Oahul, and ancholred off W-aikiki, January 1, 1789. Kahekili visited the ship and received a salute of five guns, besides a present of adizes and hatchets. Both vessels sailed for Waimea, Kauai, on Januarv 25, where thev found everything tabooed at first for fear of Kaiana, lbut later, findling Kaiana had remained at Ilawaii, the taboo was liftel. Capt. )Douglas tool on board the wife and brother a(nd other relatives of Kaiana and sailed for:lawaii, Kaiana boarding and piloting the vessel into Kailua Bay. Captain Douglas presented Kamehameha with a swivel gun, which was mountted on a large (loul)le canoe. On March 9, 1789, both vessels sailed for the northwest coast, touching at Oahu, where two mutineers were put ashore. Capt. Douglas, after exciting a(lventures on tile nortl\hest coast witll Spanish warships, visited Hlawaii again, arriving at Kealakeknla Bay, July 20, 1789. There a plot was formed by tile leadlilln chiefs to massacre him and hIis crew and (lestroy the ship. The treacherous chiefs had already introduced themselves into the ship, one holding a pistol and the others with daggers in 146 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES their hands. The king's elder brother, Kalaimamahu, was to kill Capt. Douglas, and his younger brother, Keliimaikai, was to do the same for the boatswain, while "Pareeonow" was to stab Mr. (ladmson, the first officer. When Capt. Douglas noticed that the clhiefs were armed, and that the queen had been secretly conveyed awSay from the ship, he suspected treachery. Under variotis pretences he mnanaged to get the pistol and a dagger from two chiefs, and the moment that Kaiana arrived, took him alone in his cabin and demanded an explanation. Kaiana, with tears and lamentations, unfolded the plot and laid the chief blame of it on the king. Tie said he had sent his servant to warn the captain, but he had been so closely watched that he had no opportunity to do so. Capt. Iouglas rushed on deck with the pistol and the effect was such that the chiefs immediately quit the vessel. Kamehameha afterwards made humble apologies, laying the blame on his chiefs. Friendly intercourse was resumed. Meares and Douglas may have been mistaken in their estimate of Kaiana's character, and the historian, Alexander, believes Kaiana actually had a hand in the plot. On August 27, 1789, Captain I)ouglas sailed for Macao. An American trader named Metcalf was treacherously suppl)ied by Mr. Jaqlues, mate of the Prilncss Royal, with copies of his own an(d Capt. Hudson's charts and journals, in the spring of 1789, inl Chinla. He sailed from Macao for the northwest coast in the snow Elca;nlor, mounting ten g.uns, with a crew of ten Americans and forty-five Chinese. lie was accompanied 1by a small schooner of twenty-six tons, the Fair Alericanvl, comllmandedb by his son, a youthl of eighteen years of age. ITe returned from the coast in the autumn and was trading along the coast of Hawaii toward the elnd of 1789, the Fair -Amellrican having been (letained at Nootka Sounl by the Spaniards. Kaiana and other chiefs formed a plot to take the ship, when the crew were off their guard, but were prevented by Kamehameha, who went on hoard and ordered them all ashore. Kameeiamoku, chief of the Kohala district, having gone aboard the Elcanlor, was beaten with a rope's end by the elder Mletcalf for some petty offence. Smarting under the in DARING NANVIGATORS IFOLLOWED COOK 147 dignity, he vowed to avenge himself on the first foreign vessels that shouldl colme within his power. In IFebruary, 1790, the 1E1canor crosse(l the channel to Maui and anchored off l-'onaula. As Kamakau, the HJawaiian historian, savs, Kalola, the agedl widlow of Kaleiopuu, with her new husbanl(l, KIaopuiki, was then residing at Olowalu, in West Maui, near Lahaina. Kaopuiki, havingl gonle to Hlonuaula to barter hogs for firearms, etc., noticed that the ship's boat was left towing astern durinlg the nighlt, and formed a plot for capturing it. The following night his men cut the loat adrift, killed the men sleeping in it, and towed it ashore. It was then broken up for the sake of its iron fastenings, after which the chief and followers returned to Olowalu. In the moriing when Metcalf discovered the loss of boat and men, he is said to have fired on the people on shore an(l to have taken two prisoners, from whom hle learned that the guilty ones were froml Olowalt. H-e procee(led there in the Eleanor andl resumed trade with the natives. A multitude of unsuspecting persons came off in boats and( eagerly crowded the ship to trade. Meanwhile, Capt. Metcalf ordered all the ship's guns and the muskets to be loaded, the former with grape-shot and nails, and tabued the canoes to remain off either the bow or stern of the ship. W\hen all were collected within easy range of his guns, he gave the order to open the ports and fire upon the fleet of canoes. The slaughter was dreadful. John Yolng, who wo as then boatswain of the Eleanor, estimated that over a huindred natives were killed, and many more severely wounded. But this cruel nassacre did not remain long unavenoged. The little schooner, Fair Ameritican, arrive(l off the coast of Hawaii, March 16, 1790. Hifer crew consisted of only five men besides the captain. On her arrival, Kameeaumoku went off with a fleet of five canoes as if to trade, and( boarded the schooner near Point Mano, in Kona. While young Metcalf's attention was occup)iel with receiving presents and hearing news about his father's ship, he was suddenly thrown overloard and drowned, and all the crew were killed except Isaac Davis, the mate, "whose life was sparede by a sudden impulse of compassion." The vessel was 148 1 I)NDER HAWAIIAN SKIES haule(d up on shore and stripp)ed of its guns and ammunition, etc., while Davis was nursed and kindly treated by Alapai, brothlr of Kameeaumoku. On March 17, John Young, the boatswain of the Elealor, which was at Kealakekua, had permission to go ashore. He found himself detained. All canoes were tabued by Kamehamehla's orders, lest Capt. Metcalf should hear of the capture of his tender, the Fair A4meric(an. The Eleanor lay off and on for two days, firing signal guns in vain, and finally sailed for China, never to return. Kamehameha went to Kaupulehu on March 22, accompanied by Young, where he sharply reprimanded Kalmeeatumoku, and took possession of the schooner and her guns. John Young and Isaac Davis were taken to his residence, where they were treated with the greatest kindness, raised to the rank of chiefs, presented with valuable lands, and became his most trusted counsellors. By their bravery and skill in gunnery they often turned the tide of battle in his favor, while by their good sense and integrity they exerted a powerful influence on the side of justice and humanity in all llis dealings with either natives or foreigners. Young and Davis married Hawaiian chiefesses, and their descendants occupied high llaces in the governmient, Young's granddlaughter becoming Queen Emma, wife of Kamehameha IV. She lecame a close personal friend of Queen Victoria, of Englandl. The A.rjolyumlt was released by the Spanish Viceroy at San Blas, Mexico, and p)ermitted to return to China. Capt. Colnett touched at the Islands in April, 1791, and wrote Young and Davis, offering them passage to China il his vessel. They made a determined eff(-rt to escape to the 4reen settled onl H-Tawaii with the arms and almmunition he had brought from China, his mind had constantly been directed to the seizure of every small vessel that had arrived amongst them, whilst the llans lie had repeatedly concerted for such enterprises had DARING NAVIGATO RS FOLLOWED C( 40)!K 141) lbeen uniformly opposed by Kamehaimleha andl his chief counlsellors. On this occasion Kalana and others plotted to caipture the Princess R~oytil, lbut IKamlehamiela steppedl in again and preventedl it. Capt. Kendrick, of the Columbia, after arriving at Macao, Novemiber 2, 1789, fitted ont a lbrigy calledl the Hope., nnder Mr. Ingraham, who had been his miate, and made another voyage to the northwest coast. Hle was at the Islands ag-aini on his way to China in October, 1791, and left three of his men at Kauai -under pay~ to collect sandalwood against his return from Bostoni the following year. This was the beginining of the sandalwvood trade, which continuled until the Islands were stripped of almost every tree, and few are found at this day. He afterwards made several trading vo vages to the northwest coast in the Lady Washingtoii, and] met an"wcouver at the islands Iin 1794. He was accidentally killed on December 14, 1794, in Honolulu harbor, by a wad fromt a cannon fired in salute lby the English shipl JTackal, Capt. Brown. Capt. Ingraham in 1791 took an intelligent youing native fromt Hawaii, nal~earl lack IKalehual to Boston anld back, who afterwards madie one vxoyag)e with Capt. V~ancouiver, and was highly spoken of by him. The Jenny, Capt. Baker, of Bristol, England, touched at Niihau in the summer of 1792 and kidnapped two youngy wonmen who were carriedl off to tlhe northwest coast. Capt. Baker had enough humanity, however., to s;end them back to their native country by Capt. VancouvXer, who was so much lpleasedl by their good conduct on1 board, that hie procured lands for them at Waimnea, and left themi uinder the lprotectioll of Kaeo. He met the.(Jenny again at the islands in 1794, undler Capt. Adamson, formerly first officer of the [pluigenioa. Capt. Brown of the London companye hakd thiree vessels under his charge, viz., the shipl Buittterreorthl, sloop Prince Le Boo, and] the schooner Jackal. I fe comiplainied to Vanicouiver of the counluct of a set of renegade foreig-ners on Oahu anl Katiai, who, had formed a plot to cut,Off an Aniierican bithe Ifancock, Capt. Crowell, at Kauiai, by scuttling her uender \water. which well nigh succeeded. Capt. 1 50 UNDER HAW-MAIIAN SKIES Brown afterwards dliscovered(I Honoltilu lharbor where hie was massacre(I, tog-ether with Capt. G'ardner andl the greater part of the crewvs of the Jackal and Prince Le Boo, January 1, 1795, hy Kalaniikuptile and the Oahu chiefs. In reg-ardl to the character of these early traders, Vancouver "as The natives 1had too just cause to complain of the treatmerit they hadl receive(1 from their visitors. In many cases lun com1pensation xvhatev-er had been given hy these civilized visitors. after hiaving Ibeen fully supplied, on promise of miaking amiple return, w~ith the several refreshments of the hest quality that the country afforded. '" * * Too many of them seem to have. acted upjoui the lbuccaneers' motto that there wvas 'no God this sidle of Cap~e Horn.' CH1APTER VII BUILD)ER OF A SEA EMPIRE DECISIVE DATTLE OF THE NUUANU the H-awaiian group almost at the period when the Alnlerican republic was enjoying its first years of administrative independe nce under President George Wrashington. HIad it not been for these scientific engines of destruction of lhuman life, the title of "Napoleon of the Pacific" might not have been addled to the high-sounding list of sobriquets which history has attached to the remarkable Hawaiian leader, Kamehameha I. He came out of one district, sul)ldued all other districts, conquered island after island, until he became monarch of all, but was aided in his last canmpaigns by wlite men who used modern weapons and the strategy of TEuropean generals a-ainst which the opponents' spearnmen were as pigmies. Kalaniopuu died in the sprilg of 1782. On his deathbed he proclaimed that Kiwalao, his son, should succeed him as kilng of the island of Hawaii, but he gave to Kamehameha his war god, Kukailimoku, conferred upon him the powers of a high chief, and assigned to him the districts of Kona and Kohala. The (livision of the lands of the kingdom did not suit Keoua, Kiwalao s halfbrother. Keoua therefore placed himself at the head of an armed force which engaged in several skirmishes with the warriors of the young king. Finally a pitched battle was foutght at Mokuohai, and Kiwalao wSas struck down by a stone from a sling. Keeaumoku, one of four Kona chiefs, who had allied themselves with Kamehameha, saw the king fall and crept up to him and cut his throat. With the king's party utterly defeated, Keoua went to Kau, Vwhere he proclaimed himself as his half-brother's successor. Ka 152 1 UNI)ER 1HA\VAIIAN SKIES mehamelia, seeing an opportunity to obtain power for himself, began warrilng against two allied chiefs who held the windward side of the island of l-awalii. His forces were routed in a battle at Waiakea, andl he fled to Laupahoehoe and later raided along the coast of Puna. In 1785 he again invaded the Hilo district, but without success. It was at aboult this time that Kamehameha married Kaahumanu, a (laughter of Keeaumoku. The arrival of the year 1790 m-arke(l another turning point in the history of the Islands, for it was then that Kamehameha began mustering the strength which led finally to the bringing of the entire group under one sovereignty. In the early part of the year lie considered lie had(1 sufficient strelgth to make another invasion of Maui, anld Keoua, chief of the Kau district, and Keawemauhili, chief of 1TIilo, were instructed to furnish him with men and calloes. This request was declined by Keoua. In the sulmmer Kalmehamehla landed at lana and then at Hamakualoa, Maui, and defeated the advance guard of the Maui warriors. Hie tlhenl marched to the VWailuku valley, where lie met and defeated the main o(ldy of the Mcaui army. The victory, it is said, was really rb1rought about by the cannon served by Young andl I)avis, who hadl joined Kamehameha, and which struck terror into the hearts of the Malui warriors. Thle AIaui lea(lers escaped and fled in canoes to the island of Oahu. Thins conquest of Maui was not lermanlent. Kamehamleha was com)elle(l to return to H-awaii, for, in his absence Keoua had invad(ledl Iilo, overrun the I-lalalkua district, and ravaged the (listricts of W\aimea antd v\,aipio. As soon as iKamehameha landletl, ]Keoua retreated to tflnalakua, where, in two bloody battles, Kamelhameha gained the advantage. Keoua retreated to Hilo, and Kamehamieha went to W\ai;io to recruit his forces. In the meantime ]Keoua (livided the land(s of Ibilo among his chiefs, and then set out for the Kau district by an overlandl route leading by the active crater of Kilauea. The first division lpassed the crater in safety, but as the second (livision l)asse(d there was an explosive eruption. BUILDER OF A SEA EMPIRE 153 and every warrior in the division was killed. This incident convinced Kamehameha that Pele, Hawaiian goddess of the volcano, was on his side. In the early part of 1791 Kamehameha's fleet met and defeate(d a fleet which the king of Kauai had sent against the island of Hawaii. This battle occurred off Waimanu, and Kamehameha gained his victory largely through his superiority in firearms. Towards the end of the year Kanamehameha sent two messengers to Keoua, whom they persuaded to go to Kawaihae, for an interview with Kamehameha in the hope of ending the war between them, which had lasted about nine years. He set out in his own double canoe, accompanied by armed warriors, and as they approached the landing at Kawaihae, were surrounded by the Chief Keeaumoku and a number of warriors. Kamehameha was sitting on the beach. As Keoua was leaping ashore, Keeaumoku kille(d him with a spear. The men in Keoua's canoe were then slaughtered. As a result of this act of treachery, Kamehameha became master of the entire island of Hawaii. It was the first decisive step toward the consolidation of all the islands. The years 1791 to 1795 were eventful ones in the history of the Islands. On March 2, 1792, Capt. George Vancouver, commissioned!)y the British to make a complete survey of the northwest coast, and whose memory has been cherished as that of a wise benefactor of the Hawaiian people, arrived in Hawaiian waters and cruised along the Kona coast. He had with him the ship Discovtery and the armed tender Chathaull. Kaiana went aboard the ships and received presents of orange trees, grape-vines, and other useful plants and seeds. Captain Vancouver then went to the islands of Oahu and Kauai, and then sailed northward to Nootka Sound. Everywhere he went in the Islands Capt. Vancouver was confronted with evidence of the decrease in population since the first visit of Capt. Cook, and was impressed by the desire of the natives to obtain firearms. Two members of the crew of the store ship Daedallus, incluling Lieutenant Hergest, were killed by natives on May 7, 1792, 8 154 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES while the vessel was anchored off Waimea, Oahu. Those killed were members of a party that had gone ashore for fresh water. This vessel later joined Capt. Vancouver at Nootka Sound. When Capt. Vancouver next visited the Islands, on February 14, 1793, he brought, as a present to Kamehameha, a bull and a cow, the first ever seen in the Islands. In return, the king presented the captain with four feather helmets, a large number of pigs, and huge quantities of fruit and vegetables. Vancouver then turned over to the king his remaining livestock, which included five cows and three sheep. He left the Islands after making strong efforts to bring about peace between Kamehameha and Kahekili, king of Maui, and bringing to justice the natives who killed the two men from the Daedalus. Returning to the Islands again on January 9, 1794, Captain Vancouver went to I-ilo, where Kamehameha was residing. He and his men were treated as guests and hospitality was lavished upon them. The captain landed some more livestock, and in Felbruary his carpenters began the construction of the Brittauia, the first vessel ever built in the Islands. Althoulgh only 36 feet long, the ship formed an important addition to the navy of Kalmehameha. Kamehameha at this time received much valuable advice from Capt. Vancouver regarding the management of his kingdom, the discipline of his troops and his intercourse with foreigners. The navigator told the king of God, and explained that there was but one true God, and that H-e was the ruler of all mankind. He pointed out that the tabu system was wrong, and declared hee would ask the king of England to send to Hawaii a teacher of the true religion. Ile strongly recommended Young and Davis to the confidence of the king. So impressed was Kalmehlamelha with all that Vancouver had told him, that a council was held aboard the Discovery onl February 21, 1794, to place Hawaii under Great Britain's protection. Kamlellaeha and the chiefs, however, reserved the ri-ght to regulate their internal affairs. The British flag was hoisted ashore fotlr days later, and Lieutenant Puget took possession of HTawaii BUILDER OF A SEA EM-IPIRE 155 in the name of the British king. It is said that as a salute was fired the natives shouted, "We are men of Britain!" Capt. Vancouver sailed the following day, leaving behind a promise to send missionaries and artisans to Christianize and civilize the Hawaiians. But the cession was never ratified by Great Britain, nor were steps taken to carry out Vancouver's plans. In 1795 Kamehameha, flushed with victories over all the island of Hawaii and on the islands of Maui and Molokai, sailed across the channels to the island of Oahu with a vast fleet of outrigger war canoes, called the "Peleleu Fleet," containing seasoned veterans of his many wars, prepared to launch a vigorous offensive against the warriors of King Kalaniklupule, king of Maui and Oahu. He had mustered the largest and best-equipped army, and since known to have been the most powerful ever mobilized, up to that time in the entire Pacific region. In his service were sixteen foreigners, of whom John Young and Isaac Davis were two Englishmen who had had gunnery experience as mates aboard British and American merchant vessels. The artillery division was in command of Young and Davis, assisted by one Peter Anderson. Kamehalmeha's combined force numbered nearly 16,000 men, according to best traditions. The army landed upon the shore of Waikiki, near Honolulu, where, in a grove of cocoanuts, some of which are reputed to be standing there today, Kamehameha established his court and his headquarters. His immense fleet of canoes occupied the beach from \Waikiki to Waialae beyond Diamond Head. Kamehameha recognized the necessity for an uninterrupted food supply, and he immediately established taro fields, planted potatoes on the hill Ualakaa, in Manoa Valley, and prepared for his campaign. In April, 1795, Kamehameha was ready, and imooved a portion of his army over the long stretch which now comprises the (listricts of Waikiki, Pawaa and Makiki, until he concentrated his vanguard at the foot of Nuuanu Valley. Several running engagements took place commencing near Punlchbowl crater. 156 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES Kalanikupule made his first stand in the valley at Puiwa and Laimi, near the present Oahu Country Club golf links. The Oahu warriors made a desperate resistance until the Chief Kaiana, a prominent Hawaiian who had sailed to China and knew of the great lands beyond the isles of Kamehaneeha, but who had been discovered a traitor to Kamehameha, was mortally wounded by a cannon-ball. The death of Kaiana broke down the morale of the Oahuans. They gave way and were steadily pursued and pressed by Kamehameha's victorious forces. The (ahuans, who had lost heavily, their women fighting as Amazons and being slaughtered with the men, retreated until they reached the gap in the mountains known as the Nuuanu Pali, one of the most beautiful of all mountain places in Hawaii, a narrow gap in the mountain backbone which divides the island in half, permitting one to gaze out upon windward Oahu as though from an airplane, and in reverse to gaze back upon the city of Honolulu and the ocean beyond. On the windward side there was a sheer precipice drop of a thousand feet. The resistless fury of the pursuing troops of Kamehameha gave no alternative to the brave little army of Oahuans, now hewn down by spear, battleaxe, slings and muskets to a shattered fragment. The army was cut to pieces. The survivors were pressed back to the edge of the )recipice. The thousands of warriors of Kamehameha p)ressed on triumphantly antd, gradually, the survivors were forced over the brink to fearful death a thousand feet below. Many escaped up the ridges on either side of the gap, and among them were the defeated king attended by a small detachment of his warriors. For months he was hunted in the Koolau mountains until he was captured in a cave above WVaipio and brought down and offered in sacrifice to the conqueror's war god at Moanalua. HIis brother, Koolaukani, escaped to the island of Nauai. The flower of the Oahu aristocracy perished in this battle, as well as the commoner. This battle made Kamehameha master of all the islands except Kauai, which, however, was brought under his domination PLBUILDtER OF A SEA E MIPIRE 157 to such an extent that the king of that isle dared not oppo:se his will. About a year after the conquest of Oahu, Kamehamela set sail with a very large fleet of schooners and war canoes for the island of Kauai, but a storm arose which wrecked nmany of the canoes and drove the rest back to Waianae, on Oahu. The conquest changed radically the ancient system of government, as Kamehameha desired to centralize all of the power in his own hands. He claimed all of the lands in the kingdom as his by right of conquest, and these were apportioned among his followers. The old system of district chieftains was broken up, and he managed to keep the more ambitious and restless chiefs about his person. He appointed John Young governor of the island of Hawaii, and made Keeaumoko u governor of Maui. Four powerful chiefs of the Kona district, Hawaii, who had aided him in his wars and raised him to the throne, became his chief counsellors, and Kalanimoku, alias William Pitt, was named prime minister and treasurer. With his government organized, Kamehameha promoted agriculture and encouraged industries in an effort to repair the ravages of his wars. He took measures to suppress brigandage, mnurder and theft, but remained a firm supporter of the ancient tabu system, using it as a powerful machine of state. From 1796 until 1802 the kingdonm flourished, although the island of Kauai had not been added to it. Several small, decked vessels were built, and two foreigners, who lived at Lahaina, built there for the king a two-story brick house. In May, 1803, a Captain Cleveland visited the Islands on his way to China and landed on tlawaii the first horses ever seen by the natives. In the same year Kamehameha returned to Oahu fromn Hawaii with his army and fleet, the latter including some twenty small vessels of from twenty to forty tons. Through an exchange Kamehameha obtained a brig of 170 tons, which had been aground on the California coast, and George McClay, the king's carpenter, rep)aired it in Honolulu harbor. It later made voyages to China wih cargoes of sandalwood. 158 UNDER HAVAIIAN SKIES Honolulu in 1809 is described as a village consisting of several hundred huts which were well shaded by cocoanut trees. The king's house was built close to the shore and was surrounded by a palisade, over which flew the British (?) colors. There was also a battery of sixteen carriage guns belonging to Kamehameha's l)rig. A short distance away were two large stone houses which contained the European articles belonging to the king. On the shore at Waikiki, with sheds built over them, were the smaller vessels of the king's fleet. One small sloop was employed at the time as a packet between the islands of Oahu and Hawaii. The cession of the island of Kauai to Kamehameha's kingdom occurred in 1810. From then until 1825 the sandalwood trade with China was at its height, and while the wood lasted it was a source of wealth to the kings and chiefs of Hawaii. In 1814 Baranoff, Russian governor of Alaska, sent a ship on a sealing voyage to the Islands. It was wrecked at Waimea, Kauai. Baranoff, it is believed, planned to form a colony in the Islands. The following year lie sent another ship, the Myrtle, which anchored at Honolulu. Russians landed, aggressively built a blockhouse, landed several guns, and hoisted the Russian flag. Kamehameha sent a large force of chiefs and warriors to watch the Russians, and to resist them with arms if necessary. The Myrtle then sailed for Kauai, where a breastwork was thrown tip, and cannon mounted, at Hanalei. Later, the Russians built a fort at Waimea for Kaumualii, chief of Kauai, and it is said that they proposed that he lease the island to them for a term of years. Construction of a fort at H-onolulu began in January, 1816, under the direction of John Young. It was from 300 to 400 feet on a side, twelve feet hi-gh, and twenty feet thick. Its armament consisted of about forty guns. Upon orders from Kamehameha, the Russians were expelled from Kauai. In October, 1816, Kamehameha purchased the ship Allbatross, 165 tons burden, paying for it with sandalwood. Near the close of the same year Captain Kotzebue visited the islands in the Russian discoveryship Rutrick. He gave the king two mortars and a supply of BUILDER OF A SEA EMPIRE 159 shells and powder, and NI. Choris, the artist of the expedition, painted the only authentic portrait of Kamehameha in existence, a copy of which illustrates this book. Kamehameha died in the faith of his ancestors. History says of him: "His work was done. He had consolidated the group under one government, put an end to feudal anarchy and petty wars, and prepared the way for civilization and Christianity. His faults were those of the age and society in which he lived, and both morally and mentally he stood far above the other chiefs of his time." CHAPTER VIII LINKS BINDING ENGLAND AND HAWAII CONQUEROR ILEANED TOWARD BRITAIN ITl'l-IJ the visit of the Prince of Wales to Honolulu in 1920 the time seemed appropriate to Hawaii's historians and paragraphers to turn back the pages of history and review some of the events that linked Hawaii and Great Britain in the past, the evident effort of English navigators to secure a large measure of English influence in the direction of Hawaii's affairs, even to securing a cession of the Hawaiian Islands to the British crown. From the (lay that Captain Cook's ships sailed into Hawaiian waters il 1778 until the little brig Thaddcmls, flying the American flag, saile(l into the same waters in 1820 and landed American missionaries, there was a steadily growing influence of Great Britain, and this continued until a day when Daniel Webster, theoretically pointing his finger toward the Great Powers, advised them to keep their hands off Hawaii, and from that (lay English as well as French influence in the Islands wanedl, but in that time England gave to Hawaii much that was to the country's benefit. Out of the archives of the -Hawaiian Islands, which are now classified and stored in the Archives building in Honolulu, there was brought to the attention of the Prince of Wales, during that ellmorable visit, a compilation of English influence in Hawaii. There was compiled a comprehensive narrative of this interesting period of Hawaii's history, for in all that time there was nllmch of discovery, of romance, adventure and tragedy, of international complications, and there were times wilhen English gunls were ulnmuzzled on the decks of frigates and trained upon lHonolulu. And it is related, also, that on an occasion in 1843 when LINKS BINDING ENGLAND AND HAWAII 161 this happened an American man-of-war loosed her anchor cables and swung into position, with guns cleared for action, so that she was in a position to dominate the decks of the British vessel. Honolulu, possibly, was saved a bombardment by the action of the intrepid American commander. This connection between England and Hawaii begins with the lname by which the Islands were first known to the world, and until a comparatively recent timie so set down on the maps, a name derived from the title of the Earl of Sandwich, who at the time of Captain Cook's rediscovery of them in 1778, was the First Lord of the British Adlmiralty and in whose honor Cook called them the Sandwich Islands. Since that time until 1875 England played a part in the country's history second only to the United States. Following Cook, the second great Englishman to stamp his name indelibly on Hawaii's history was Captain George Vancouver, who had been sent out by the British government to receive the cession of Nootka Sound and the country round abo'lt, from a Commiissioner of Spain, and to make a survey of the northwest coast. This officer reached the island of Hawaii March 2, 1792,.fromn which place he proceeded on his mission. This, however, was not Vancouver's first visit. He had been in Hawaii with Captain Cook as one of his midshipmen. Returning to the Islands, he anchored off Kawaihae, island of tIawaii, February 14, 1793, where he landed a bull and a cow, the first ever seen by the natives, and later the balance of his stock, consisting of five cows and three sheep. After a stay of several weeks he again sailed from Waaimea in the early part of April for the northwest coast. Returning for his last visit, lie anchored off Hilo, January 9, 1794. These three visits formed an era in the history of the Islandls. I-e was a wise and generous benefactor to the Hawaiian people. lIe sowed the seed of the religion of Jesus Christ, thereby paving the way for the American missionaries. 162 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES One of the most important events connected with his last visit was the so-called cession by Kamehameha I, of a portion of the island of Hawaii to the British Crown. Vancouver in an autograpl letter dated March 2, 1794, which is on file in the Archives, says the whole of the island, but at that time Kamehameha ruled only over the districts of Kona, Kohala and Hamakua, the latter of which he had only recently conquered. He was at war with the chiefs of Hilo, Puna and Kau districts, and it was not until some time after Vancouver left that he was in undisputed possession of the whole island. The interpretations put on this cession by Kamehameha and Vancouver were wide apart, the latter considering it an absolute surrender by Kamehameha of his sovereignty. This, Kamehameha lhad no idea of doing. Protection from without was his object, and he had no intention of surrendering the control of internal affairs. This was also the attitude taken by the British government regarding it, as is expressed in a letter from the Earl of Liverpool now il the Hawaiian Archives, which is one of respect to the King's independence, with an implied promise of friendly protection in case of foreign aggression. These visits of Vancouver were of lasting blenefit to Hawaii. -He gave Kanlehameha and the chiefs wise and friendly counsel. I-He endleavored to bring about a lasting peace between Hawaii an(l the leeward islands, and left ullder the impression that he had settled conditions by which it would be brought about. Vancouver in his narrative, volume 5, page 82, says: "I was very lmutch concerned to find that mly earnest endeavors to bring about a reconciliation and to establish peace among those islandls had proved unsuccessful. The mutual distrust that continuedl to exist among the people cf the several islands, which I had foreseen to be the greatest difficulty there was to combat, and which I had apprehended would be an insurmountable obstacle, had lroved fatal to the attainment of this desirable object." This was not to be, however, until somle sixteen years later, when Kamehameha became king of the whole group. ITINKS B INDlIN G ENGLAND AND HAWAII 163 Before leaving, Vancouver had laid the keel of the first vessel ever built il the Islands, a small sloop called the Britanima, and promised the king to send him a vessel suitable for cruisingr among the Islands, in accordance with which, though not until three years after Kamehameha's death, Captain Keat, on behalf of the British government, presented the vessel to Liholiho (Kamehameha II), Mlav 1, 1822. It was named the Prince Rc-.crnt, and came to an untimel end only a few months later on the east side of Oahu island. The British government was the first to be represented in Hawaii by a full-fledged consul, though the United States had had a commercial agent and acting consul for five years prior to the arrival of the Britishl consul, Captain Riclard Charlton, who, with his wife and her sister, arrived at tIenlolulu April 16, 1825, the ladies leing the first European womlen to lbecome residents of Honolulu. Liholiho, who, had succeeded to tle throne on the (leath of his father in 1819, decided in September, 1823, to visit ETngland and the United States. In this he was actuated partly bv curiosity to see foreign lands and partly to secure protection for his country from foreign aggression, especially against Russia, subjects of that country having been particularly aggressive, erectilg a block-house, mountilg a few guns and hoisting the Russian flag at Honolulu in 1815, also tlrowing up1 breastworks and mounting cannoln at Hanalei Kautai, over which the Russian colors were displayed. The king embarked in an English whlialeshil), the liti,'lc, accompanied by Kamamalu. the queenll the High Chief Boki and his wife, the High Chiefess Liliha; Governor Kekuanaoa, Kapihe, Manuia and James Young, the son of John Young. They sailed from Honolulu September 27, 1823, amid the sad forelodings of the people, which later events justified. Landing at Portsmouth, May- 22, 1824, the party was taken in charge by the Honorable F. Byng, who had been appointed by the government to attend the royal set, and quarters were provided for them at Osborne's Hotel, London, where, according to 164 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES Jarves and Bingham, the appearance of the travelers was somewhat novel to the residents of that city. The queen died on the 8th of July. The king expired on the morniing of the 14tl. The survivors were treated with great kindness and were received by King George IV at Windsor Castle, Septemb)er 16. It was at this audience that the king confirmed Lord Liverpool's letter in reference to the independence of the Hawaiian sovereign, telling the chiefs he would protect the Islands from foreign aggression, but all internal affairs were in their own hands, to be managed as they saw fit. The frigate Blondc, comnmalnded by Lord Iyron, cousin of the poet, whom he had lately succeeded to the title, was ordered to convey the remains of the king and queen and the survivors home. To the door of Richard Charlton, the British consul, who had been a thorn in the side of the Hawaiian government during the whole of his residence in the Islands, historians have generally credited the frequent visits of English warships at Honolulu, and the forced cession of the Islands to Lord George Paulet, of Great Britain, in 1843. The English government had ever been willing that these Islands should rise and prosper under their native dynasty. Mr. Charlton had constantly urged a contrary policy, indirectly if not directly, by representing the native rulers as wholly unfit for governing. On many occasions he treated them with indignity, threatening their lives and using language unpardonable for its violence and unreasonableness. Had he been a dispassionate, shrewd man, possibly he could have effected greater injury than lie did, but )v 1833 his natural character had been forcibly disclosed anid his influence began to wane. Disappointed by this very nattural consequence, he zealously lent himself to the injury of the nation, opposing all that it favored and nursing' ever) case which could generate discord or involve the rulers. B!' 1842 lmatters had reacled such a stage, not only with Charlton libt with France, tlat an embassy was appointed April 8th ol that year, to the United States and the courts of Great Britai,' ~":: ': a:. ~ i*i; i a, s, ~I B:iQ; 2 88~ *,F " ?' i gji Bi;;i~ ~':;":-R.i —..,I I~~;,, ~,: ~ F~ i~ I a~W-~l~;: ~u~;~.;;aa — 41 1 " ia~ "" g;; ~ ~._ sr;~.i: ~:, 6 " " 1 B ~... g: /6i ~ $ilb "I piri "i;;;:~~ a i L; "I ~r B "~ ~C ~ a ~ ' r~",a ~~ i qaa`;:;." "'" ~e~.": ~% ~` ia~, ": 41 "a;,,81,~~~..., s,, txai~Ma ii-fi ~L ia* 8i":. s~:t: ~ Br II ~Hi - F.. gi jjR. s L8P;I~.aV- ~x i c 1~ ii ~ ~' "' E ~" ii r r,i L~ i;s .:1;~~ ~i ui lil 9 Ii~i~ i ~~al wil I 3:" c rol-,r Cliral~rcln Bar~(lsf-'()l~cll,:Is:L rni3ic;hil"mrur) ill.1,85, ()11 II-, IZ, Til"s s],iJ-, C"iis, t~c)clc. tile Ilf))sa Pnr:r; miadcrsj rrlidllibl el~slrli; rr ac*nlr>vt)g tb(i?F;lli(il 1.01M, l;be 8-rxlcri;trl (,Ollaulal;o:I: Bol~lOlurl.l )-f~is tt(,)xllln:llldel~ c~oxxlgctllaP jlm t-c) rt~gl:l(~c: ib Iul~lic~15I, rII p;cct:une iS P.rl(>xn tt rll~:l,illg Ill;ldL":l;t tilt? jlX1, 166 UNDEiR HAWAIIAN SKIES and France, to negotiate new treaties and obtain guarantees of the independence of the kingdom. As soon as these facts became known, Mr. Charlton, fearing the results of the embassy upon his own office, left the country surreptitiously, September 26, 1842, for London, via Mexico, to lay his colmplaints before the British government, sending back a threatening letter to the king in which he informed him that he had appointed Alexander Simpson as acting consul, an apIoilltmlent the Hawaiian government refused to recognize. At Mazatlan he fell in with Lord George Paulet, commanding the British frigate Car'ysfort, and by misrepresentation, is said to have so prejudiced the mlind of this officer, that the grievous bl)under (as it has heretofore appeared to historians) he is supposelly said to have coimmitted a few months later followed as a natural result. In later years none saw this more clearly than Lor( (George himself. Mr. Charlton's career was terminated bv his ownl act. HIe had no sooner arrived in London than he was removedl from office under circumstances of disgrace. Tlle Earl of Aberdeen considered the final act of his diplomacy as intemperate, improper and ill-judged, calculated to lo great mischief and( to produce in the minds of the king and his advisers a resentful feeling, not only against Mr. Charlton, but against the British government and its subjects. The Earl's sentiments are auttlentic and( indicate, at least on the surface, that it was no part o:t:the policy of lEngland, that her commissioned officers should insult and blrowbeat even tlhe weakest of nations. Meanlwhile Mr. S;impson had sent despatches to the coast, representing that the persons and property of his countrymen were in d(anger, which induced Rear Admiral Richard Thomas, commander-in-chief of the British forces in the Pacific, to order the Carysfort to Ionolulu to investigate. Historians, heretofore, have generally agreed upon the following account: The Cary\sfort arrived on the 10th of February, 1843, and Mr. Sinmpson inmmediately went on board to concert measures with Lordl 'aulet, whose entire acquiescence in his plans tends to show that the seed planted by Charlton at Mazatlan was sown on fertile LINKS BINDING ENGLAND AND HAWAII 167 ground, and on being watered by Simpson, came to full fruition. The authorities on shore suspected there was no friendly feeling from the withholding of the usual salute. Dr. Gerrit P. Judd, an American, who called officially on the part of the Hawaiian government, and the consuls of the United States and France were tersely informed that they could not be received. The king, who was absent on Maui when the Carysfort arrived, reached Honolulu on February 16th, and on the 17th received a peremptory letter from Paulet, inclosing six demands with the threat that if they were not complied with by four o'clock, p. m., of the next day "immediate coercive steps would be taken." The next morning, February 18th, the frigate cleared for action and her battery was brought to bear on the town. Excited by the gross injustice of the (demnands the first impulses of the king and his council were to resist. In this they were sustained by tlhe entire foreign population, but wiser counsel finally prevailed and before the hour set for hostilities had arrived, a letter was sent on board the Carysfort informing Lord Paulet that ambassadors had been sent to England with full power to settle these very difficulties, but nevertheless the king would comply with his demands under protest, and appeal to the British governmient for justice. On the morning of the 25th of February the king and premier sicgned the provisional cession to Lord Paulet "subject to the decision of the British government after the receipt of full information from both parties." It is to the lasting credit of England, that when this information was received, her decision was in favor of the king's contentions. The act of cession was publicly read from the ramparts of the fort at three o'clock p. m. of the same (late and a proclamation providing for a commission for the government of the Islands issued by Lord Paulet and the British colors hoisted over the fort. At the same time the flag over the British consulate was struck. By a strange coincidence it chanced that the day was the forty-ninth anniversary of Kamehameha's cession to Vancouver. 168 1UNI)ER HAWAIIAN SKIES The commission took over the government as far as foreigners were concerned, the native population being left under the control of the king and chiefs, and ruled with an iron hand in the most arbitrary manner, as if it had been settled that the Islands would permanently remain as a British colony. Every Hawaiian flag that could be found was destroyed. Fearing seizure of the national archives, Dr. Judd concealed them in a royal tomb. "In this abode of death," says Jarves, "surrounded by the former sovereigns of Hawaii, and using the coffin of Kaahumanu (favorite queen of Kamehameha the Great), for a table, for many weeks he nightly found an unsuspected asylum for his labors in behalf of the kingdom." The tomb referred to is now under the mound of lawn and flowers in the grounds of the territorial capitol, formerly the royal palace, at Honolulu. It is directly in front of and a couple of hundred feet clistant fromi the building where the archives are now housed for all time, including those secreted by Dr. Judd. Word of Paulet's action having reached Admiral Thomas, at Valparaiso, lie proceeded in all haste to the Islands, arriving inl his flagship, the Dublin, July 26th. Hardly had the ship come to anchor before the admiral in the most courteous terms solicited an interview with the king, and in a few hours it became known that he had come to restore the independence of the Islands. The joy of the natives and of the foreigners was unbounded, and the mortification of the Simpson party extreme. A proclamation was issued by the admiral, in which he declared in the name of his sovereign, that he did not accept the Provisional Cession of the Hawaiian Islands, and that "Her Majesty sincerely desires King Kamiehameha III, to be treated as an independent sovereign, leaving the administration of justice in his own hands." At an interview with the king on the 27th the terms of the restoration were agreed upon and July 31st appointed as the time for the world to witness England, in the person of her gallant and worthy officer, restoring to the petty sovereign of the Hawaiian Islands his prerogatives and his doninions. LINKS BINDING ENGLAND AND HAWAII 169 An open space on the plains east of the town, since called "Thomas Square," was selected, two pavilions erected, and thither poured the entire population of Honolulu, with the exception of a few who sympathized with the commander of the Carysfort, to witness the restoration of the flag. At 10 o'clock a. in. marines of the Dubliln, Carysfort and Hazard being drawn up in line with a battery of field pieces on their right, the king, escorted by his own troops, arrived on the ground. A detachment from an American man-of-war was also drawn up. As the royal Hawaiian standard was hoisted on the flagstaff a salute of twenty-one gu-ns was fired by the field battery after which the national colors were raised over the fort and on Punchbowl hill. This ceremony was delayed a few days as there were no Hawaiian flags available, they, as previously mentioned, having all been destroyed by order of Paulet, and it was necessary to have new ones made, which was done, by the admiiral's order, on the Dublin. Thus did a great and magnanimous nation honor itself in doing justice to a weak and puny one, and at length, on November 28, 1843, united with France in a joint declaration recognizing the iindpendelnce of the Islands. The real anid actual motive for the scizure of the Hlawaiianl Islands by Lord Paitlet, julst revcaled in a careful research of the British Archives (1925), discloses a scusational fact that allmost comlpletely upsets previous history in this connlcction. This phase wcill be dcalt with in1 a stubsequent chapter. In the annals of Hawaiian history the name of Robert Crichton Wyllie stands out in bold relief. A man of independent fortune, the Laird of Hazelbank in Scotland, he was a tower of strength during the formative period of constitutional government. He arrived, as a visitor, on February 3, 1844, with General WVilliam Miller, who had been appointed the successor of the disgraced Charlton, to represent the British government, and for a period of eight months acted as British pro-consul during a visit of General MIiller to Tahiti, lduring which time he so won 170 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES the confidence and respect of all with whom he was brought in contact that on the formation of the departments in March, 1845, he was invited by the king to accept the portfolio of Minister of Foreign Affairs, and never was a more judicious and fortunate, for Hawaii, appointment made. From the day he took office, March 26, 1845, to the day of his death, October 19, 1865, his sole ambition was to serve the king and the Hawaiian people. HIe gave up his allegiance to the British crown and became a naturalized subject of the kingdom of Hawaii. A shrewd diplomatist, he brought the country safely through many a trying period. Not only his services but his fortune were at the king's disposal and on several occasions he camie to the rescue of the government when funds were needed. None exceeded him in loyalty. He materially strengthened the government by bringing into its councils a gentleman of extensive acquaintance abroad and of enlarged views. For a period of over twenty years he served the country of his adoption with whole-hearted zeal, and it is fitting that he rests in the royal mlausoleutm with the sovereigns whom in life he served so well. His hobby was writing. His handwriting rivalled that of Horace Greeley, and his thousands of letters, reports, statements, state paIpers and private missives are referred to as "Xyllie's hieroglyIhics." He was subjected to floods of abuse and invectives, but through all he stood steadfast as a rock, and piloted the little monarchly through political shoals until, through negotiations of treaties with G(reat Britain, United States, France, Denmnark, Sweden, the Gernman States, and others, Hawaii's indepelndence had been place(l lbeyond the reach of disaster. The Archives of Hawaii owe their existence to him. Prince Albert of Hawaii, named after England's Prince Consort, son of Kameaehaleha IV, and Queen Emm na, and heir to the throne, was baptized August 23, 1862, four days before his death, according to the English Episcopal liturgy, thereby marking- a departure from the church established by the American missionaries. He was called the Prince of Hawaii, and was its crown prince. LINKS BIINDING ENGLAND A\ND HAWAII 171 Her Majesty Queen Victoria, who had previously consented to be godmother, the Prince of W7ales and Prince Lot Kamehameha were the sponsors. It had been the intention to defer the baptism of the young prince until the arrival of the Bishop of Honolulu who was soon expected, but the serious condition he was in would admit of no delay. Bishop Staley, accompanied lv other clergymen, arrived from lEngland, October 11, 1862, froil which time the establishment in Hawaii of the Clltrch of England (dates. A telnporary cathedral was erected and several schools established. In May, 1865, Queen Emma sailed in 1. B. M's ship-of-war Clio for Panama on her way to Englandl where she received every attention and was treated witll mtuch kindness. In fact, the Dean of W\estminster, who conducted many personages about the abbey, in his 1memoirs said that the one royal personage who showe(d most interest in what she was bleiln shown, and who also exhibited a surprising knowledge of what was in Westminster Abbey, was Queen Emma of Hawaii. While the Clio was in port awaiting the embarkation of the queen, a number of her midshipmen on a lark, renmoved the shield from the United States legation and carried it aboard ship where it was later found and the commander, Captain Tourneur, called upon Mr. McBride, thle IAmerican Minister, to express his regrets and to make such amends as Mr. McBride nlight suggest, the result being that the captain made a second call accompanied by the midshipmen, among whom was Charles Beresford. The middies replaced the shield, apologized to the minister and thanked him for his leniency and the matter endledl with the best feelings on both sides. The alleged author of the prank, Charles Beresford, later known as Iord Clarles Bere;ford, one of England's greatest naval fighters, was always a friend of America. In February, 1899, Lord Charles Beresordrd, then all admiral, passed through Honolulu on his return home from a dliplomatic mission to China. During the voyage from the Orient to Honolulu on the steamer 4Amcrica Mar l t, he told Robert Lydecker, a 172 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES H-onolulan, all about this lark. He said that he always got the credit for this prank but he had nothing to do with it. Lord Charles' version of this incident, written by himself, is found in his Memoirs of Admiral Lord Charles Beresford, vol. 1, pp. 58-59, and began through his knightly desire to take up the dare of a lady. He writes: "But before we quitted the Sandwich Islands, an event occurred (of which I was the humble and unwitting instrument) which nearly brought about what a:e called international complications. I should explain that feeling ran pretty high between the English and the Americans in the Sandwich Islands with regard to the American Civil War, which was then waging. It was none of our business, but we of the Clio chose to sympathize with the South. Now that these unhappy differences have been so long composed, there can be no harm in referring to them. But it was not resentment against the North which inspired my indiscretion. It was the natural desire to win a bet. "A certain lady-her name does not matter-bet me that I would not ride down a steep pass in the hills, down which no horse had yet been ridden. I took the bet and I won it. Then tile same fair lady bet me-it was at a ball-that I would not pull down the American flag. That emblem was painted ):1 wood upon an escutcheon fixed over the entrance to the garden of the consulate. I took that bet, too, and won it. "HTaving induced two other midshipmen to come with me, we went under cover of night to the consulate. I climbed upon the backs of my accomplices, leaped up, caught hold of the escutcheon, and brought the whole thing down upon us. Then we carried the trophy on board in a shore boat. Unfortunately, the boatmlan recognized what it was, and basely told the American consul, who was naturally indignant, and who insisted that tlhe shield should be nailed up again in its place. I had no intention of inflicting annoyance, and had never considered how serious might be the consequences of a boyish impulse. "Mv captain very justly said that as I had pulled down the flag I must put it up again, and sent me with a couple of car ;- ~ -C ~~41 ~~,. " " ,~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ i;i j"" ~I : ~ ~~I r~r: i`C~ g~:" ( ~\; : 'i -I 'la ~~I r Bie ~ -~- ~ ~Ki~l ~IIt Wi; ';~ clle I: u p,iy: :" -ii; i~ is;..~...IE~ YU (' ~B ~ri "." I:. 1"'Bt.i ~ii- "." ar,,,, "*~~ai~ I.lil,,,li"~l"i~~?.~ I ii;X 1Li~ (~ ~ iii"~l " 'Bijsai * ~~~ ~~~~"13" ""~i -iie ilWW iei liMi~~ 5 "lf"11"~'-1 "g",, L1BEII ~ .~~i r~ ; ir ~.IE, IX., E1~;li(~(? lir:llrU) S()11 J) 11-r clr~ ICag;al I ~I igJ,,, (Iso Ill~t-lr:Iclcl ikol:(,l.i alll tlio Jljll (.:llloP Tcli-liallcli;a I — ---((illj:us I"itC,)" 174 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES penters on shore. We replaced the insulted emblem of national honor, to the deep delight of an admiring crowd. "The Clio put to sea. We heard afterwards that the American government dispatched a couple of ships of war to capture me, but I do not think the report was true." The arrival of the Prince of Wales in Honolulu in 1920, on the battleship Reluozcui, marked the second visit of a member of England's royal family to Hawaiian shores, the first heing that of Alfred Ernest Albert, Duke of Edinburgh, second son of Queen Victoria. The duke arrived at Honolulu July 21, 1869, on HI. B. M.'s ship-of-war Galatea. It remained in port twelve days a(nd the duke was entertained in a style befitting his high rank, by Kamehameha V, notwithstanding he had expressed a desire to be received only as the captain of the Galatea. He was given an old-fashioned Hawaiian "hookupu," a custom of paying tribute by the presentation of gifts, including ornaments and pIroducts of the soil and sea, even to a squealingl4 pig. Kinlg David KIalakaua set out on a trip of the world in 1881. sailing first to San Francisco, and then across the Pacific to Japan, China, India and Egypt, reaching London July 6 of that year. I-e was presented to the queen at Windsor Castle on the 11th and left on the 24th, having been lavishly entertained by royalty and the nobility meanwhile. The next members of Hawvaii's royal family to visit England were Queen Kapiolani, consort of King Kalakaua, and the Princess Liliuokalani (afterwards Queen Iiliuokalani), who, in 1887, attended Queen Victoria's jubilee as guests of Her Majesty. Probably there was no p)lace, other than in England, and her possessions, where Queen Victoria's jubilee was celebrated to a greater extent than in H-onolulu. England was ever a just, generous and great friend of Ilawaii, and its subjects had abundant reason to rejoice with Britons in the celebration of their beloved queen's 50th anniversary of her accession to the throne. Ten years later, in 1897, Hawaii, then a Republic, was again represented at the British court, the occasion being the Victoria Diamond Jubilee, in the person of Hon. S. M. Damon, Minister LINKS BINDING ENGLAND AND HAWAII 175 of Finance, whlo was commissioned Envoy Extraordinary by President Sanford B. Dole, to convey his felicitations to Her Majesty. Diplomatic relations ceased between Hawaii and Great Britai' on the former's annexation to the United States. In addition to the events related, there are carefully filed away in the Archives of Hawaii a number of autograph letters from Qnueen Victoria; Albert Edward's (Prince of Wales) thanks to Queen Liliuokalani, on blehalf of the plrincess and himself, for her letter of sympathy on the death of their son, Ilis Royal Higlhness the Duke of Clarence and Avondale; andl the signatures of mlany of England's prime ministers, beginlning with that of the Earl of Liverpool in 1812, are inscribed on a number of diplomatic (locuments testifying to the close and cordial relationship that existedl between the two countries in thl past. CHAPTER IX TREASURE HOUSE OF HAWAII ARCHIIVES REVEAL DRAMATIC HISTORIC DEVELOPMENT IVII) incidents and events in the romantic, dramatic and adventurous history of the Hawaiian Islands are revealed in the treasure house of priceless documents that have at last been almost completely and permanently reclassified and arranged in the bureau of the Archives of Hawaii at T-onolulu, the gamut of political development being clearly exemplified from the (lays of the kings and chiefs of the ancient (lays, through the hundred years of monarchy, and finally thronugh the five years of a republican form of independent government until the people found themselves a territory of the United States of America. The year after George Washington assumed the presidency of the United States the archives of the Hawaiian Islands had their inception, and strangely enough in the form of a letter written by an American ship captain addressed to four white men then residing on the island of Hawaii, and from whom he demanded that they influence the chief to return to him his boatswain who had landed a few (lays before. Otherwise, he wrote, he had ample means to take revenge. Such is the first letter on file in the large collection of public and private archives that have been treasured, at first by the king of Hawaii, Kamehameha the Great, sometimes called the "Napoleon of the Pacific," the greatest of all Hawaiians, past or present. Down through the decades from 1790, when Captain Metcalf, the American mariner, wrote that letter, the documents piled up. There is hardly a national history extant that is so replete with vivid events, and TREASURE H(-)USE OF HAWAII 177 the archives reveal them step by step, the visits of eminent navigators of many countries-England, Russia, France, Spain — the arrival of merchant foreigners, the advent of American missionaries in 1820; the official contact with foreign governments and their representatives, tinged with the first breath of modern diplomacy; the eventual clash of civilized religious sects among the Hawaiian people, the evolution of a king of semi-barbaric islands into a sovereign whose white ministers gradually obtained for him the rights and obeisance shown to rulers of greater nations, the exchatnge of formal treaties the utterances of universally known publicists, such as Daniel Webster, relating to the independence of the Sandwich Islands as they were then known; the hostile attitude of the squadrons of vessels flying the flags of France and England, the seizure of the Islands by the representative of Queen Victoria, the establishment of schools to whiich the early Californians sent their children for higher education before schools were established in the golden area along the Pacific coast, the eventual attention of the United States to the affairs of Hawaii, and finally the tragedy of the overthrow of the monarchy in 1893 when the way was paved for the ar nexation of the group five years later, when the American fi,," was hoisted ever to remain floating over them. Hawaii was always a dominant area in the Pacific. Her people were the superior of all Polynesians. Her kings became supreme in affairs that brought them into contact with the powers beyond. It was a kingdom that was seldom treated as a mere group of dots in the Pacific governed by a savage. Today, Hawaii boasts of the only throne room in the United States, or even a royal palace. In Honolulu, Iolani Palace, former abode of King Kalakaua, and later his sister, Queen Iiliuokalani, is now the executive building of the Territory of Hawaii, the Governor occupying offices there, and in the throne room sits the House of Representatives and in the former state (lining-rooni the Senate holds its sessions. 178 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES After the arrival of the missionaries in 1820 the royal court was elevated to distinction and eventually the code of etiquette was similar to that prevailing at the Court of St. James, and in timle it lbecamie a brilliant center for social activities, as well as a practical core for the political needs of the government. The Archives of Hawaii building is the repository of all official correspondence between the ministers of the cabinet and foreign powers, island representatives abroad, with local representatives of foreign countries, of reports, the sessions of the legislatures since 1841, the land transactions, the old treaties, signed by the sovereigns of foreign nations, including Queen Victoria, the Wilhelims of Prussia and Germany, Napoleon III, Louis Philippe, Oscar of Sweden, Humbert of Italy, Oom Paul Kruger, Porfirio Iiaz, tlhe Alexanders of Russia, Francis Joseph, while the files teem with letters signed by Presidents Andrew Jackson, James Knox Polk, Zachary Taylor, James Buchanan, Abraham Lincoln, Andl(rew Johnson, General U. S. Grant, General James A. Garfield, King Cakolau of Fiji, the Shahs of Persia, Mikados of Japan and the ill-fated Maximilian of Mexico. It is also the repository of the baubles of royal orders, of glittering decorations that once adorned the tunics of the kings. Also, the crown worn but once 1)y King Kalakaua, the day of his coronation in 1883, which was rifled of its gems, and broken and twxisted when the overthrow took place in 1893, and which in 1925 was rehabilitated by act of the Legislature, and again has its brilliant appearance of forty-five years ago. The old royal stan(lar(ls. botl of kings and of queens, tle flag carried arotund the world in 1881 ly King Kalakata, the American flag raised on January 17, 1893, when the American residents hoped that the United States government would approve of the revolution, but which was ordered haulcd dowtn and the Hawaiian flag restored; the Amnerican flag raised on August 12, 1898, when Hawaii became a part of the American union-all are stored in the Archives. Even the revolver which Captain Good of the emergency forces of the American committee, fired on January 17, 1893, TREASURE HOUSE OF HAWAlII 179 at a Hawaiian policeman, and precipitated the revolution that day, is on file in the Archives. Hawaii has derived many benefits from annexation, and the classical Greek building on the capitol grounds stands as a monument to one. Had this momentous event in the history of the Islands not taken place, in all probability the Archives building would not grace the landscape at the present time, and its valuable contents would still be, as they had been in the past, neglected-a prey to worms and decay. It is not generally known that shortly after Rear Admiral Miller, U. S. N., raised "Old Glory" to the top of the flagstaff on the former palace, a representative of the Congressional Library, at Washington, D. C., went to Honolulu with a view to collecting the archives and transferring them to Washington, but was urged, on account of their relation to local affairs, and especially their great value in connection with island matters, to leave them in territorial custody. This was finally agreed to, with the understanding that a fire-proof building be erected to house them. The building was completed in 1906. The archives are unique inasmuch as they trace a race from savagery to civilization. Other than the official documents of the several departments of the government, are original letters of the early Hawaiian kings and chiefs, beginning with those of Kamehameha II, in 1823, shortly after the missionaries had reduced the native language to writing. The early trials, tribulations and occasional triumphs of the government are set forth in thousands. The student of history finds therein the early (lays of adventure and commerce in the Pacific vividly portrayed, as are also those of California, then known as New Albion, and the northwest coast. Not least among the valuable records are those contained in the bound files of newspapers, beginning in 1836, when the first paper in English was printed. "The Navy Department will receive instructions to place, and to keep, the naval armament in the Pacific Ocean in such a state of strength and preparation as shall be requisite for the preserva 180 1UNDFER HAWAIIAN SKIES tion of the honor and dignity of the United States, and the safety of the government of the Hawaiian Islands." So wrote Daniel Webster, Secretary of State of the United States, on July 14, 1851, in a formal declaration which for the first time set forth the policy of America towards H-awaii and that portion of the Pacific ()cean which Hawaii dominates. This letter is among the dlocuments in the Hawaiian archives. The first report ma(le to Washington on the value of Pearl Harbor as a naval base was a strange prophecy made by Lieut. J. W. Curtis, U. S. Marine Corps, who visited Honolulu aboard the old frigate Constitution in October and November, 1845. The gallant old fighter of the War of 1812 anchored in Hawaiian waters for two weeks. Two years previous Lord George Iaulet, commanding the English frigate CarAysfort, had seized the Islan.Is and raised the British flag, an act repudiated five months later by Admiral Thomas. In 1839 a French fleet appeared at Honolulu, made demands, including a sum amounting to $20,000 gold, which was pai(l, an(l even ao-ain in 1849 a French fleet appeared at Ionolulu, entered the harbor, and wrecked the old and useless fort. Dr. G. P. Judd, one of the most distinguished of the foreign advisers to Kamehalmeha III, in secret, sought a report from Lieut. Curtis, as to a proper method and site for the defense of -Ionolulu. The officer penned his report aboard the ConstitltionJ, and, strangely enough, selected Pearl River (Harbor) as the best site. That was nine miles (listant from Honolulu, and between the city and harbor was only a barren waste of land. That report lay hidden among the archives until recently, when in indexing the documents, the lilrarian came across it. Lieut. Curtis' prophecy has been fulfilled. Pearl Harbor is not only a defense for T-onolulu but for the entire Pacific Coast of the United States. The oldest document bears (late of Iecemiler, 1779, a commission in the British Royal Navy, carrying the sig'nature of Lord Sandwich, after whom the Islands were nalmed, valuable from a H-awaiian standpoint only for the signature of "Sandwich." TREA SURIE 1)OUSE OF HIA\VAII 181 The next oldest document bears (late of March 22, 1790, signed by Capt. Simon Metcalf of the Elcanzora, anchored off "()Owhyhee" (I-awaii), addressed to four white men, as previously stated. lHe wanted his boatswain. Only a month before, Captain Metcalf had wantonly massacred a hundred natives off the island of (ahul. Unknown to him, in retaliation, the natives of H-awaii island had attacked the Fair,Amllerican, commandedl by Metcalf's son, and had killed all save one man, Isaac Davis, whose life was spared. The (lay following, John Young, boatswain of the lEicanora, was sent ashore. His life was spared. Kamelhameha I took both men into his service. Thley became his closest advisers. Next in ploint of age is a copy of the letter left with the Chiefs of the Island of Hawaii by Capt. Geo. V'ancouver, dated March 9, 1791. Though this is a copy, it was doubtless written at the same time as the original, for it is on the same kind of paper and in the samne handwriting (probably that of Vancouver's secretary) as an autograph letter signed by VTancouver March 2, 1794, which is on file in the A\rchives. In alddition to the recommendations in the last letter, the navigator also states, "On the 25th of February, in a grand council of the principal chiefs of this island (Hawaii), assembled on board his 1lrittanic Majesty's vessel under my command, 'Tamaah Maah' (Kamiehameha) made the most solemn cession p)ossible of the Island of Owhyhee to His Brittanic Majesty." England never availed herself of this clause until 1843, and then the cause for seizing the Islands was for an entirely different reason. The Archives contains, also, the chart of Vancouver's voyages, showing his vessels, the Discov'cry and tender Chathalt, cruising down the coast of California, the chart referring to the land as "New Albion." Vancouver was the first to introduce cattle in Hawaii, transporting them from California, as presents to the king. There are copies of documents from the archives of Spain to indicate that Juan Gaetano discovered the Hawaiian Islands about 1555, substantiated by charts, a claim which historians 182 182 ~UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES have (lisiputed for decades, preferrig to ive the date of discovery as January 16, 17178, hy Captain Cook. A Spanish chart shows a group of islands in the Pacific, hut not in the latitude of tile -Islallds as at present known. Thle Archives has the retained copy of Kanlehanieha's letter to George ITT announcingT his fealty to the British king. While this letter conveys the imiplied cession of the entire group (tile so-calledl cession at tile tille of Vancouver'Is visit being that of the island of Hawvaii only), it is more in the phraseology than in tile intent. A perusal of tile letter clearly shows tilat the king's am~anuensis was not a person of education, the- spelling- being decidedfly off. The following is tile letter in full: "Hius Most Sacred Majesty George Ill of tile -United Kingdom of Great Britain & Irelandi, King, Defender of the faith, &c., &c., &c. "Brotiler-We, Kanlaah. Maah, King of the Sandwich Islands, Wishinill to rend~er every assistance to, the ships of His Most sacredl M.ajesty's subjects who visit those [these] sea's, have seilt a letter by Capt. Spence. silip Duke of Portlanid, to, Iis Majesty. Since wihichl, Tinloree (Katimutaiii), king of Aztooi (Katiai), has deliiveredl Iis island up, and( we are now ill tile possession of the wihole of the Sandwich Islailds. WNe, as subjects of His Most sacrci M1\ajesty. wisil to Ilave a seal alld arms seilt from Britain so tilat tileir Ilay lbe 110 llolestatioli to our Silips or Vessels in those Sea's or any hindrance wllatsoever. "\Vishing- y\our Majesty a longr & ihappv reign, I a1l Brother, "S igund) KAM\~AA11\H MAAH. "Woailoo, August 6th, 1810."' T1here was evidently some misunderstanding ill relation to; these so-calledl cessions. Tilat Kamlellanlela rigtllty unlderstood the nlleaning of tile \vorl "cessionf" is (doubltful. Wviat le appears to have waiited was protectioll, both ill iis dealinlgs witih Vancouver aild ill tile letter to Georgre ITIT and lhad 110 idea of suirrend~erinlg Ilis own sovereignlty. A_ letter fromi the Earl of I~verpool, (latedl April 30, 1812,~ ackilowledges the receipt of one from tile k~ingo datedl March 3, 'TREASURE 1-1( )ISE 01? HVAWANII8 18") 1810 (this is the letter the king refers to in his letter of Atugnust 6th, 1810), together with a feather cloak at the hands of Captain Spence. There is also aii enclosure of a list of presents sent to the kiniog of Hawaii. The m-iost implortant lpart of the letter of the earl is the intimation, prohably for the first time, of the attitude of the British government relative to Kamelhamelha's cessions. In this connection there is a footnote in the handwriting of Rohert Crichton Wvllie, the Scotch Minister of Foreigon Relations (1845-1865), as follows: "Note hy the Reviewver.-The list gave the contents of two cases, Nos. 1 and 2, with presents of articles, some ornamental andl others useful, hut without either seal or armas. Perhaps thie British Government omitted them thlinkin g they might mark the Islands as a Dependency of tile Biritish Crown, for the whole tenor of the despatch is one of respect to the Kinlo's indleplendence, withi an implied lpromise of frienlllfy protection in case of foreign aggression." Ihe presents sent were as follows, accordingI(T to the Archiives Case No. 1 contained "a oold laced cocked hat and feathers anid a nlew X red coat and uniform." Case No. 2 had in it an assortnment of various sized nails, some hrads, six hammers, twelve g-imlets, tvo augers and two higiohly ornamented hrass speakingcy trumpets. A letter fromt the Governor-in-chief of New Southi Wrales, apologizing for the delay in sending tile cases, states that bV order of tile 1Prince Reg-ent, of Lnglandl, le will shortly hegin )til lin gd a vessel to le presented to the kino when completedl. This is the vessel th-iat had been promised hy Vaincouver, wh:1ich promiise the kinog reminds George III of in his letter of Mtarch 3, 1810. Tlhe vessel arrived at Honolulu April 16, 1822, lbut ramehamehia, 1, havino died on Mtay 8. 1819, never knew the promise was kept. It was laimed Prinicc _Rcgcact antl was presentedl to Kamehanella II hy Captain Kent on behalf of the British government. The vessel wvas wvrecked a few months later on tlhe east shore of Oahu. 184 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES There is also a document bearing the "His Mark" of Iamehameha I and the signature of Capt. Hipaulito Bouchard of the ship Argentina, which authorized the King of Hawaii to take charge of any prize ships that might be brought to the Islands by vessels of "The United Provinces of the Rio de la Plata," signed on board the Argenltina, September 11, 1818. Also the king's declaration in relation to the Buenos Ayres patriot ship Santa Rosa that had been taken from her officers and sailed to H1awaii. The original commission issued to Captain Bouchard by the lBuenos Ayres Congress authorizing him to seize this vessel is among this lot of papers. Hearing that the first officer of the Santa Rosa was at Waimea, Kauai, Captain Bouchard went there with an order from the king to the chiefs of Kauai, ordering them to deliver him up, which was done, and he was forthwith executed on the beach at Waimea as a pirate. The king compelled the natives to deliver up a mass of silver and gold plate, and vessels of value which the pirates had looted from churches in Latin America. In a commulunication to the king, (lated October, 1826, the day of the month not attached, Capt. Thos. ap. Catesly Jones, U.S.N., comman(ling the sloop-of-war Peacock, announces his arrival and desire to present a message from the President of the United States, and to lay certain propositions before the king in council. This visit of Captain Jones led to the signing of the first formal treaty made by Hawaii with a foreign power. The original of this treaty has never come to light in Hawaii. Neither was it ratifie(l by the United States. All subsequent treaties, embellished with silken, velvet or plush covers, ribbons, heavy silk cords, and great wax seals contained in large silver boxes, are on file. Traces of the treaty have been- found, such as the envelope which contained it, and a nemorandunl, made by Dr. G. P. Juddl il 1846, stating that it had been delivered to John Ricord, the attorney-general in Hawaii, who was to return the document in ten days. The copy retained by the United States also has been lost, having been burned in a fire in the Navy Department at Washinogton. TREA"k-SURE H-lOUSE OF HAWVAii 1 1 85 Tlhere is also on file a copIy of a letter written lhy Commodore 9ones in 1853, adldlressedl to the Secretary of the Navy. This letter is in the nature of a relply to criticisms of Jones' actions while here in 1826, miade ly Mr. \Vyllie in a report to the legislature, andl incidentally the Commodlore states in (etail what took place hetween the British Consul, Capt. Richard Chariton, and h]imself at the Council of Chiefs, lheldl l)ecem.her 22, 1826,. to) negotiate the treaty hefore mentioned, when it seems Charlton (lemd the right of the chiefs to inmake treaties, claiming that the Islanders were stljects of Great Britain. ()f this incident Joines says ''At the close of an appropriate praycr hy one o)f the missionaries, the ministry occupied a few nintntes in conisultation, when the P rime MVlinister, lKalanimoku icommonlvy kIno.wnw as Billy 1I ittl lproiiouiicedl the council ready for ihusiness. \Vhereupon Ilis IHO-. Majesty's Consul General Ithe Com-limodore's memory is at fault here, Charlton's title heinlg that of consul, only] rose and madle p"rotest agrainst all further proceedin'gs in the lprcnises, declaring the Islandlers to lbe mere tenants at will, suhjects of Great Britain, \ithout p)ower to treat with any other state or lprovince aand that if they entered into treaty stiputlationiis vith the United States, treat Blritain would soon aissert her right by taking- possession of the 1slands, a right which his king- andl country had never rellinquished.' (This statement was either woeful iglorance or dleliljerate hluff on Chiarlton's part. At an audlience at Windsor Castle, Sepiemher 11, 1824, (George I1 V himself told the Chief I:oki andl other chiefs that he would lprotect the Islands from foreigmn aggression, hut that they must manage thleir internl affairs themselves, refusing absolutely to hiave anythilngo to (10 withi such m- iatters. Testimiony to this effect by Governor Kekuianiawoa, father of iKamnehameha I V and V., who was hIresent at this audience, is onl file.) Calptain Jones' statement reslines: ''Not altogether unprelpared for this move, I asked Captain Chiarlton what was the nature or character of the commission lie hore fromt the King England ) 'Consul-general to the Sandwich Islands, with ftill 9 1(86 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES power to appoint vice-consuls for the Society and other groups at discretion,' was his reply. 'What are the functions or duties of a consul-general?' was my next question. The answer was in accordance with the acknowledged international understanding of the office. I then asked Captain Charlton if it was customary for a prince or potentate to send consuls, consuls-general, or commercial agents to any part or place within his own dominions? No sophistry could ward off the catastrophe. The consulgeneral was dumbfounded, while the true sovereigns of the Islan(ls looked on with intense anxiety for the interpretation of the )pass between the representatives of the two great nations, lEngland and America." When informed of all that had been said by the antagonist representatives, Pitt, the Prime Minister, although far gone with d-ropsy, which closed his valuable life a few days afterwards. raised himself upon his couch and gave utterance to his feelings, in substance, thus: "Is it so? Are America and England equal? WVe never understood so before. We knew that England was our friend, and( that Captain Charlton was here to protect us, but we (lil not know that Mr. Jones [the American consul resident at that time, a civilian], was the representative of America; we thought he was here for trade only," etc. In this connection there is a footnote to Comimodore Jones' letter in which lie states that until the Pcacock's visit to the Society Islands, in 1822, the inhabitants supposed the United States to be a colony of Great Britain, upon a par with New South Wales. This, to some extent, appears to have been the understan(liil g in Hawaii. Among the important documents filed in the Archives are three journals of the Rev. Wim. Richards, one of the early missionaries, who, with the consent of the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Mi,;sions, at Boston, put aside his missionary work at the solicitation of the king to become the political adviser of the government. One of the journals contains copies of some of the doculents relating to the "Secret MTission" of one, T. J. Farnham, TREASURE HOUSE OF HIAWAII 187 in 1840. Everything connected with the mission was suppressed at the time, but this journal throws much light on it. Credentials were issued to Farnham, to the United States government. Then follows a long letter of instructions, advising him to proceed to Washington first and find out the disposition of the United States to his entire mission, the main o)ject of which was to make treaties with the several powers with a particular view of securing the perpetuation of the Kamehameha dynasty. In France he was to work for the annulment of the existing treaties with that country, which were forced on the Hawaiian government at the muzzles of naval cannons, and which were described as "dishonorable treaties." The removal of the French consul at Honolulu, who had never been recognizedl by the tlawaiian government, and the return of the $20,000 talken from Hawaii on the frigate L'Artcmisc, were requested. The demands made by the French coimmissioner, M. Perrin, in 1851, which were the identical demnands made by M. Dillon in 1849 (ten in all, but the principal grounds of complaint were the high duty on brandy and the alleged partiality shown the English language) finally resulted in the issuing, on March 10, 1851, of a proclamation placing the Hawaiian Islands provisionally under the protection of the [United States. The action resulted in a consi(lerable modification of the French commissioner's deman(ds, and the whole trouble brought forth a letter from Daniel Webster, then Secretary of State, on the policy of the United States towards the Islands. Writing to U. S. Commissioner ILuther Severance undler heading, "Department of State, July 14, 1851," the Secretary, after acknowledging the receipt of several official communications from Mr. Severance, says: "They relate to a subject of great importance, not only to the ITawaiian Government and its citizens, but also to the United States. "The Governme nt of the United States was the first to acknowledge the national existence of the Hawaiian Government, an(l treat with it, as an inelepen(lent state. Its example was soon fol i n1ierYrot about:18.;(0* Tl lfti4t 61"itt-l the middle tatlw beitf] t ween ow I- ings A.til 8 l i i El. | l l T ) i 1at d i1} i II tli st ( 1 X (. Ozlf)l(ll j 1 1; X I}j, i TREIASURE I( -HUSE OF HAWAII 19 189 lowe(l h~y several of the governments of Etiro)e; andl the lUnitedl.'States, trne to its treaty obli-ations, has in no case interfered wvith the Hawaiian Gov'ernm-ent. for the p)urposes of opjposingy the course of its ownI independlent conduct, or of (lictatiuig to, it any lparticular line of pollicy. In acknowiedging the independence of the, Islands, and of the government establishied over thiem-, it was not seeking- to li-rolwote any Iparticnlar ohject of its own. What it (lidl, and all that it did, was (lone openly in thie face of dlay-, in entire g)ood,( faith and known to all nations. It declared its real purpose to he, to favor the establishiment of a g-overnment at a very imlportant point in the P acific Ocean. which wonid be able to, maintain relations with the rest of the worldl, as are maintainedl letw~een the civilized states. Urom this pnrpose it hias never sweven-l for a single moment nor is it inclined!l, xvithonit the pressur~e of sonic necessity, to dlelpart from it now, when events have occnrred, gYivingy to the Island(s and to their interconrse withi the United States a niew aslpect andl increased 'ilplortallce. ''This -overnment still (lesires to see tlhe nationality of the Hawaliiia ( 'overnincnt maintained, its independent ad-lministrationI of pnblic affairs respected, anid its prosperity increasedl. "I utl, while thns indisposed to exercise any sinister intli-ence itself over the councils of Hlawaii, or to overawe the proceedlings of its gyovern-ment by the, menace or the actnal apllhication of snuperior military force, it expects to see other powerful nations.1 act lin the same slpirit. It is, thierefore, with ninfeig-ned regret. thiat the P residlent has read the correspondlence, and become ac(lniaintedl with the circnimstcances occurring bet ween the iHaxvaiian Government and M1. P~errin, the (iommissioner of France at Honolulu. "It cannot be expected tlmat the government of the United States could 1l0ok on suich a course of thlings with indifference. "Th'le H-awaiian islands are ten times nearer to the U~nitedl States thian to any of the Powers of Europe. Five-sixths of all their commercial intercourse is with the United States;and these considerations, togyethier with othiers of a more g-eneral character, 190 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES have fixed the course which the government of the United States will pursue in regard to them. The annunciation of this policy will not surprise the governments of Europe, nor be thought to be unreasonable by the nations of the civilized world; and that policy is, that while the governtlent of the United States, itself faithful to its original assurance, scrupulously regards the independence of the Hawzaiian Islands, it can never consent to see those Islands taken possession of by either of the great commnercial powers of Europe, nor can it consent that demands manifestly unljst and derogatory, and inconsistent weith a bonla fide independence, shall be enforced against the government. "The substance of what has here been said has been intimated with sufficient explicitness to the Government of France; and we have the assurance of M. Sartiges, Minister of the Republic of France, that that government has no purpose whatever of taking possession of the Islands, or of acting towards them in any hostile or aggressive spirit." Ile concluded with the statement that the American Navy would he kept in readiness in the Pacific Ocean for any emergency, as previously quoted. The thundering enunciation of Daniel Webster reverberated in the cabinet council halls of every capital in Europe. Never again did a foreign warship approach the Hawaiian Islands with hostile intent. France, aggressor on three different occasions, with a show of naval force each time, retired from the North Pacific area, and so did England, if ever she had a real hostile desire to occupy these Islands. The Archives show that France endeavored to placate the H-awaiian people, and in 1857 Napoleon III, with a pompous gesture, presented to the King a vast array of gold and silver tableware, his gift of friendliness, so his letter stated. The service, which was used on state occasions by Kamehameha IV, Kamehameha V, Lunalilo, King Kalakaua and Queen Liliuokalani, was finally turned over to the Archives bureau, and, by act of the legislature, the bureau has loaned the service to the Governor of Hawaii, also for use on state occasions at Washington Place, the TREASURE HOUSE OF HAWAII 191 present gubernatorial mansion, and formerly the private residence of the late Queen Liliuokalani, purchased by the government of Hawaii from her heirs. Every step of the history of the Hawaiian Islands is traced down through the chronological collections in the Archives. If there is an incident relating to the first proposal for annexation of Hawaii to the United States, when Kamehameha IV, tiring of foreign aggressions and feeling the weight of the mythical crown upon his brow, sought to have the United States take this step, the documents are on file covering it. It is the same with the first movements for reciprocity in the '60s; of the riots when Kalakaua was elected king in 1874. There are reams of letters and reports on the king's tour around the world; his formal coronation in 1883, nine years after he was elected ruler. All the documents are on file to show that in 1887 the foreignl residents rose en masse and demanded a new constitution of King Kalakaua and got it; of a revolution in 1889 stag,-e(l by Robert Wilcox, a Hawaiian who had been sent to Italy for military training; of the overthrow of the monarchy in 1893, and the royalist uprising in 1895; the documtents relating to the movement for annexation, and finally the Act of Coiigress of July 6, 1898, annexing Hawaii. Finally, there are stored in the Archives the flags that figured in all those historic elisodes. Even the private letters of former Queen Lilitokalani, seized on January 16, 1895, the day she was arrested at Washington Place on a charge of misprision of treason, are filed in the Archives. In three boxes they remained sealed up from 1895 until opened in the Archives in January, 1925, and among them was a letter addressed to her from Robert Louis Stevenson, (late(l at Samoa, in 1891, congratulating her upon her accession to the throne, and hoping that she would be a "wise and not lavish sovereign," a letter not heretofore given to the literary world. (111APTE1R X PLANT WEIALTH INTRODUCED BY FOREIGNERS DON FRANCISCO) Dce PAULA y MARtN GRIC VLTUREi was not unknown to the ancient Itawanianls. rihe early navig-ators recorded their skill'andl In(lusry in that imlportant art. Also their admiration e"f thle ingenuitiyN of the Haw-avalans in suj)p)lying water hy conduits to irrig-ate their fieldls; in constructing. paths to (livide them, and fences to enclose them. That those early accounts were not exagg-era tCl is lprovedI by the vestiges of ancient cultivation. that mayT he tracedl in every valley andl on the slopes of every hill, \vhere tile soil wvas (Yood, throug(hout the Islands. Elveii In the oldest times, according, to records, the Hawaiians raised eniough for themselves, and to spare for others. Buit they were not thenr accustoned to the conveniences and luxuries of civilizedl life. These conveniences andi luxuries lbecame necessities, increasing fromt year to year. inI running through the pages of Cook's Journals, wve find thle following lprodluctions, only, of the Islands one hundlredl and forty-seven years agvz:Taoolagesz n fine quality sweet lpotatoes, fromt 122 to 14 lpounds each lplanitains, five or six varieties hreadf fruit, scarce, yams, scarce; a, swveet root like a yam in form11, prohably the root of the ti-plant; sugyar cane of large sze andl goodI qualit cooantits awa root; gourds; fowls, scarce h logs, abund~an, (logs, uised as- food; geese; large, white Ipig-eons. Fourteeni vears afterward, when V~1ancouver visitedl the Islands, wve find( that the following were the only newN productions: Goats, watermelons, mutskmelon s. P~LANTF WEALTH I NTrR(DUCE-D19 193 Since those (lays the lpro(Iuctiolls of the I slandls became wonderfully multiplied, and their wvealth increased in Iprolportion. IThose to whom the Islands are indebted for this gTreat and beneficial change were: The (liscoverer, Calptain Ccok, who, on Sunday, Ielbruarv 1, 1778, left on the island of N~iihau one ram goat andl two ewes, a hoar and sow of English lbreed, and the seeds of ineloiis,, ptimlpkmns, andl onions. Captain Colnet, who left a ewe and a ram on Kauai, before the arrival of VTancouver. Captain Vancouiver, who, on Suinday, MXIarch 4, 1/792, left to T~ianna (K'Jaiana) on Hawaii, some vine and orange p~lanfts, some almonds andl -ardlen see1s; and to lKeeaumoku (thle father of IKaahumanti) a gcoat and kid, some fine orange lplaints andl gardlen seedls. ()n March 13., 1792, lie left to the young Prince K~-aumutalii, of iKauai, a male and female g-oat andl two geese; onl Febrmary 25, 1793, hie left to Keeaumoku., before imenitionied, one ram. two ewes andl oiie ewe lambh on February 19, 1793, lie landed a bull and cow from California, for Kamehamecha I, iii the canoe of IKrimamahool, off the coast of Hawaii on February 22, 1793), lie landed five cows, two ewes and a ram, in the lbav of IKealakekuia, for Kaniiihamiela 1; on Tuie-sday, March 5, 1793, hie landled in the same place, for the king, a variety of Culiniary uitensils. imlplemients of husbandry, smith's andl carpenter's tools; on Maf~rch 17, 1/793, hie 1presented1 a complete set of armorer's tools to Enemo, the ruilingr chief of Kauai;on Janutary 15", 1794, lie landed a bull, two cows, two buill Calves, five rams: andl five ewe sheep, from California, in IKealakekuia Bay, for Kamechaimeha I. Doii Francisco dle IPavla v Mlann, wvho weiit to the Islands at a very early lperiodl (it is b~eliev-ed in the Princcsa Rcal., in 1791 1 and who appears to have servedl the kiiig in miany capacities. IHis journal, kept in Spanish, and consisting- of several volunlies, is filed in the Archives of Hawaii. The volumes, are mutch (lilapidated, and as the first entry is (latedl November 14, 1809. there is reason to believe that several volumes have, been lost. These items have been extractedl from his journal: 194 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES On January 11, 1813, Marin says he had planted at sundry times, some pineapples and an orange tree, beans, cabbages, potatoes, peaches, chirimoyas, horseradish, melons, tobacco, carrots, asparagus, maize, fig trees, lemons, lettuce, and that he had been engaged in making kukui oil, cocoanut oil, candles, tiles, hay, cigars, and had acted in the several capacities of butcher, cook, mason, ship carpenter and physician. On June 27, 1813, le was engaged in making nails; on February 24 and March 1, 1815, he was engaged in planting vines for the King; on July 6, 1815, it is recorded that he made 38 gallons of wine; on July 13, 1815, that he made five flasks of brandy; on December 7, 1815, that he made a barrel of beer. On December 30, 1817, there is a record that he planted coffee, cotton, made lime, planted cloves, salted pork, made pickles, planted tomatoes, turnips, pepper and chilis, sowed wheat and barley, made castor oil, soap, molasses, syrup of lemon juice, planted saffron, cherries, and made shirts. On February 25, 1819, he was engaged in making sugar. On April 15, 1819, he was sent for to cure the king, with whom he renained till May 8, when, he says, the king died, aged 60 years and 6 months. On May 18, 1819, he was repairing muskets. On Auglust 27, 1819, it is recorded that he was selling vegetables for the king to the French sloop of war Desciubierta. On September 14, he was making extensive purchases froin vessels, for the king. On September 22, 1819, he says: "This day they brought me the first orange, though I plantd ththe seeds eight years ago." On November 4, 1819, he was engaged by bartering sandalwood for rum. On Decembler 8, 1819, he received the commission of captain ill the Hawaiian army, which commission is filed in the Archives. On March 14, 1820, he records: "This (lay arrived the brig, of middling size, called the Thaddeus, Captain Blanchard, bringing missionaries for these Islands." PLANT \WEALTH INTRODUCED 195 From this brief account of the labors of Don Francisco (le Paula y Marin, from 1809 to 1820, few will doubt that much of the present wealth of the Islands is owing to seeds, roots, and plants introduced by that one man. It may be fairly questioned if there existed on these Islands, or exists at present, any man to whom the Hawaiian people are generally so much indebtel. It is due to his memory to mention, that amongst his papers were found some ancient translations into native of the Lord's prayer, and other prayers used by the Catholics, from which it is to be inferred that he had made some efforts to abolish the native idolatry. As the intercourse of the natives from 1778 to 1827 was confined almost wholly to English and Americans, a knowledge of their lalnguage had become iindispensable in the multifarious agellcies in which the king employed him; consequently he had applied himself to the study of their langua ge with so imutch success as to become a kind of notary and interpreter for the king. It may not be out of place to remark that on the 30th of October, and 26th of N/ovember, 1814, anld on the 6th of January, 1815, he records three successive and peremptory orders, as sent down from Hawaii by Kaimehamehla I, touching the resi(lence of foreigners, and their rights, which clearly show how mnuch Kamehamneha III exceeded his father in the liberality of his plolicy towards foreigners. In fourteen years that intervened between the visits of Captain Cook and( Vancouver, the Islands had been visited by Captains Brown, Meares, Metcalf, Portlock, Kendrick, and others engage(l in the fur trade. There appears to be no record in that interval of any introductions of seeds, plants, or animals by them; and ill like mnanner, from the time of Vancouver up to the arrival of the lmissionaries, they had continued to be visited by vessels engaged in the same trade, and in the sandalwood trade, an( it is fair to presume that several, from their own benevolence, or at the request of resident foreiogners, had made large additions to the seeds and plants and animals known at the time on the Islands. 196 IUNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES Althoug'h Marin's journal is continued from the 14th of March, 1820, to the 1st of August, 1826, no mention is made there of his labors in p)romotion of agriculture beyond the former date, because after that (ate a new and more systematic agency commnenced on the Islands, that of the American missionaries, the first of whom then arrived, under instructions from the philanthropic Board, which they and their successors carried into effect in so many I)laces and with such beneficial results in the introduction of seeds, plants, roots, ilmplements and utensils, as cannot be (lone justice to in a passing notice. Suffice it to a(ld that Marin died in October, 1837, in the sixty-third year of his age. and that he devoted all his spare time up) to the day of his death to the cultivation of his garden, an(l to the other useful works in which he had taken an active part for many years. (H APTER XI T'IONEER FOREIGNERS IN HAWAII HO)NOILULU IN 1809-1810 )OT, the ancient name of a land now covered by the business section of Honolulu, is referred to as having beecn occupied by Hawaiians as a landing place for canoes and as a fishing village for a long time plrior to the arrival of the haole, or foreigner. Waikiki was the village where the kings and chiefs, with their retainers, lived. There are indications, however, that Hawaiians lived along the banks of Nuuanu stream and in certain parts of Kolu; for the place names of this area are connected with many well-known traditions. There were famous heiaus (temples), ulu maika (disc throwing-) courses. localities where sl)irits (wailua) dwelt and enclosures where the hula was performed, and konane (T-lawaiian checkers) was playe(l. Groves of ancient cocoanut and( hla trees, which were standling in many cases until quite recently at Pakaka Point and along the harbor-front, would indicate that at some time Hawaiians dwelt near these for considerable periods. It was not until after Kamehameha I had conquered Oahu, in April and May of 1795, that Honolulu became important, and( then only because of its small, sheltered harbor. It is very difficult to decide who were the first white men to take up their residence in Kou. It is almost certain that among the first foreigners to reside in what has since developed into the city of Honolulu were men who accompanied Kamehameha I in subduing Oahu, in 1795, and those who had already taken up their residence on Oahu and were in the service of Kalanikupule. the Kingo of Oahu at this time, and who after the battle of the Pali became part of Kaamehameha's retinue. Those known 198 1I8UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES to have come to Oahu with Kamehameha, accordingr to researches made by Bruce Cartwright, presidlent of the Hawaiian Historical Society, vere: John Young, the Englishman, called "Olohana" by the Hawananas. H-le had been boatswain of the American snow Elcanor, Captain Simon MN-Tetcalf, and was dretained on shore at Kealakeknta, Hlawaii, on M\arch 17, 1790. Isaac Davis, a WVelshman, callel "Ikaka," who hal been mate of the Fair iluicricant, an American sioop under Captain Metcalf, Jr., and had beeni "cut off" at Kiholo, Hawaii, on March 16, 1790. Robert BIoyd, ani Einglishman, calledl "Lopaka," who had desertedl fromt the American brig Lady [fashi'nton, Captain John l\cnclrick, at Hiilo in 1791. Johnii [ arhottle (or Ilfarebottle), who had left either the British sliip Jaclkal or Prvince Lc Boo at Haxawaii about the middle of jalnarv, 1795, when these vessels were bound from Honolulu hlarbor to China, after their mrrasters William Brown and Robert Gordmon hlad b)eCe killed, vith many of their crew, in the massacre at Ilfonolulu harbor on January 1, 1795. Bloxam-1, in his diary (Diary of Andrew Bloxamii, Bishop Museum Special Publication-l 10, paa(e 94, 1 Ionioltillu, 1925) gives as a memorandum the followinigy "FJive Eluropeans assisted Tamehameha in taking the islan-d of Voahfloo, namnely, Jamies, Evans, Tlhomias, Ridlley and Mnlackay, besides Young and Davis." James milay hiave been Captainl James Stewart, who (lesertedl from the Jackal, at Oahu in 1793, and is said to have helped Kamehamehia. Evans has never been identified. This name is -iot mentionet l ini any other work. Thomas may have been the S. J. Thomas who was one of the Americans residinog at Kailna, H1awaii, iii 1790, to whom Captain Mletcalf addressed a letter '(nov in the Archives of Ilawaii). Ridlley may have been the Isaac Ridler, carpenter's mate of the Colimibia, who was also adldlressed by Captain Metcalf in 1790. Mackay may have beeni J. Mackay, another of those addressed by Metcalf in 1790. PIONEER FOREIGNERS IN HAWAII 199 Some Hawaiian accounts of the conquest of Oahu by Kamehameha mention that sixteen foreigners assisted him, the most prominent being John Young, Isaac Davis and a Peter Anderson. Peter Anderson, of whom little is known, can therefore be called an early resident. Francisco de Paula y Marin, the Spaniard known as "Manini," is said to have come to Hawaii in 1791 in the Lady Washington (?) under Capt. John Kendrick, but this has not been proved. It is very probable that he was on Oahu at the time of the conquest in 1795. He is not named by Bloxam as having assisted Kamehameha, but tradition gives him this honor. Oliver Holmes, an American from Plymouth, Mass., was the only white man known to have been in the service of Kalanikupule when Oahu was conquered by Kamehameha. He was honorably discharged at Hawaii on October 8, 1793, by Capt. James Magee of the ship Margaret and was sometimes called "Homa" by the natives. Among others mentioned by historians as having resided on Oahu and Kou prior to 1811, are: Hamilton, an American who arrived about 1797; Elias Grimes and his brother, Americans who arrived about 1801; Stephen Reynolds, about 1803; Jean Rives, also known as John Rives, a Frenchman, who arrived about 1804; Wm. Sumner located on Kauai in 1807 and came to Honolulu with Kaumualii, king of Kauai, in 1810. Alexander Adams, a British veteran of the Battle of Trafalgar, is mentioned as having arrived about 1810. Capt. John Meek is also said to have arrived about this time, and taken up his residence later. There were others who did not become prominent until later and were therefore overlooked by chroniclers. Such men as George Beckley, Alexander Ragsdale of Virginia, Jchn Palmer Parker of Massachusetts, Navarro and Neddles, have been named among those locating here after 1811, although family traditions accredit Beckley an Englishman, arriving about 1806. They and several others did their share in moulding 200 UNDER IHAWAIIAN SKIES the history of ( )ahu and can rightly le classed as among the "first settlers." Many of these first settlers were fine, sturdy, upright characters who played a very important part in civilizing the Hawaiians. They laid the foundations upon which the lnissionaries and otler later arrivals buil(lel. After the 1 Tattle of the IPali, it is related, Kamehameha I resi(le(l (on ()ahu until July, 1796. when he sailed for Hawaii, accompanie(l 1)y mlany of his white friends, to suppress a revolt headlel hv Namakella, a hi-h chief. Young was left as governlor of )ahu. In Felbruary, 17)6. C(alptain llrougthton of the 1British Navy mlade the first survev of I-lonolulu harlor. At this time Kamelhameha was living- at Waikiki and was having a forty-ton vessel huilt on ()ahu in which to carry his increasing store of artillery in llis intenle(l invasionl of lKauai. Som-ne state that this vessel was bleing built )y \white carl)enters at Honolulu, others at \Vaikiki. In August, 17()8, aln American namiel }lamilton resi(led in 1 (onolulu anl(l was visited b)y Eblenezer Townsend, Jr., of the Ncptine. Salt )pans and( fish pondls were notice(l andl he mentiondl that "the landls are in a higlh state of cultivation, everythilng of luxurious growtl, tlle sugar cane finer than any I have seen — I thilnk larger thlla at ()w-ly-hee IlHawaii] -andl as at that islan(l, you here see the breadfruit, cocoanut, )plantain, sweet ptotatoes, taro, yaims, l)anala, which are native productions, andl watermelolns, musklmelons, pl)umpkins, cal)l)ages andl llost of our gar(len vegetalles intro(ldce(l by foreigners." In 1809-1810 A\rchilial(l Call)lhell live(l iln Honolulu nanld states: "Ul)on lanilling I was much struck witl the beauty and( fertility of the country. 'lThe village of H-onoroora, which consists of several hlun(lred ilouses. is well shaded w:ill large cocoanut trees. The king's residence, lbuilt close up1)on the shore, and surrounl(leld )b a I)alisad(e upon the lalnd side. was (listinguishe( 1)y the 1 ritish colors and l)battery of sixteen carriage guns, belongingl to his ship) tile Lily Bird, whiich at this time lay nirigg-ed( in the har)or. The PIONEER FOREIGNERS IN HA"WAII 20 201 lpalace consistedl merely of a rang,).e of hnts, viz., the kino-'s -eatingy honse, his sleeping house the qneen's house, a store, powtier magazine, and ognard-honse, with a few huts for the attend1 -ants, all constructedl after the fashion of the country (mnade of g-rass thatching,). At a short (listance xvcre two extensive storehonses, built of stone, which containedl the European articles lbelong'ling to the kingy. 1 was conducted to the honse occnlpied by the two queens. It consisted of one large apartment, spreadl witl1 mats, at one cndl of which the attendants of hoth sexes slept, anii(i1 at the other the queens occasionally slept wvhen the king was inl the morai [helati or temlple]I They and their attendants always eat here. I wvas invitedl by the kingo to taktl-e my meals inl his,eating-houise, and at the same time hie dlesiredl a young Ameri-canl, of the name of William i'doxelv, a native of Norfolk, \irg-inia, who undlerstood the lanonag-e, to eat along- with nile, to act as mly interpreter.* It is iinterestincg to (quote more from this accouint, as it showVs the mannier of life lived hy the early residents an-d the atmoslphere inl which they dlwelt. The king's mode of life was very simple. lie breakfasted at eigyht, (lined at noon, andl suippered at sunlset. HIS lprincipld chief's l)eling, always ahout his perston, there were grenerally twecntv orthirty persons present. After heing seated upon ilats spread onl the floor, at (linner a (lish of poi, or tar() pudding", wals set hefore each of them which they ate wi'th their fingers, instead of spos "his fare, with. salt fish and consecrated pork: from the morai I heiaui or temple] formed the whole of the repast, no other food bein pemitted inl the king-'s house. ''A hplatel, knife and fork wvith hoiled lpotatoes wvere, howeyer, Alrways set down before Mol(xel\x and me, by his -Majesty's order. It may he mentionedl here that Kamehamieha I hadl made his lperm~anent residlence inl Itonolti inl 18021, and had lhere moved his court, lie also resided at W'aikiki at times, hut his p~rincip~al residence was inl H-onoltultu. 202 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES "i * * The respect paid to the king's person, to his house, and even his food, formed a remarkable contrast to the simplicity of his mode of living. * * * "Whenever he passed, his subjects were obliged to uncover their heads and shoulders. "The same ceremony took place upon their entering, or even passing his residence; and every house which he entered was ever after honored with the same marks of respect. Once, when employed in the house of Isaac Davis, making a loom for the king, I observed him passing, and, being ignorant of this custom, requested him to enter and observe my progress, but lie declined doing so, informing me of the consequence. He, therefore, seated himself at the door till I brought out my work for his inspection. "When his food was carrying fromi the cooking house, every person within hearing of the call 'Noho' or sit down, given by the bearers, was obliged to uncover himself and squat on his hamlls. "This ceremony was particularly inconvenient when the water used in the king's house was carried past. There being none of good quality near Honoroora, it was necessary to bring from the mountains [from Manoa Valley], a distance of five miles. The calabash carriers were obliged, when any person appeared in sight, to call out 'Noho.' They, however, ran past as quick as they could, not to detain his majesty's subjects in so unpleasant an attitude. White people were not required to pay these honors, though scrupulously exacted from the natives. * * *" I have been told that the king's drinking water was carried from "Ka-wai-a-ke-kua" spring in upper Manoa Valley. The morai, or heiau [temple] patronized by Kamehameha at this time was "IPapa-enaena," located on the slopes of Diamond IHead, in the rear portion of the old Tom Douglas premises and northwest of the present Dillingham villa. Here the king spent two nights and one day once a week on "Kapu days." PIONEEIR FOREIGNERS IN HAW AII 20 203 Camnpbell, in May, 1809, took up his residence with Isaac Davis, of whom he gives al account and then describes his house as follows: "-* - His house was distinguished from those of the natives only by the addition of a shed in front to keep off the sun. Within, it was spread with mats, but had no furniture except two benches to sit upon. "*-* * H-e lived very much like tle natives, and had acquired such a taste for poi, that he preferred it to any other food. His wealth (in goods) was contained in a large storehouse, built of stone, adljoiniin his dwelling. " '"; Tamaa Tam naahm formerly resided at Whyteete Bay and a great part of his navy were hauled upon the shore round the bay. I counted mlore than thirty vessels. They are kept with the utmost care, having sheds built over them, their spars laid alongside, and their rigging and cables preserved in stores. Hle possesses one ship of about two hundred tons, called the Lilvy Bird. She was laid up at Hanlaroora, alongside a wharf built for the purpose. "The remainder of his fleet, ten or twelve mlore, were hauled up) at the samle place, except one small sloop which lie kept as a packet between W\~ahoo and Owhyhee.," * * Three miles to the west of Whiyteete is the town of -I anaroora, now the capital of the island and residence of the king. The harbor is formeld by the reef, which shelters it from the sea, and ships can ride within safety in any weather, upon a fine sandy bottom. There is a good channel throulgh the reef, with three or four fathoms of water, but if there is a swell it is not easily discovered, as the sea often breaks completely across. John Harbottle generally acts as pilot. "* * * A small river runs by the back of the village and joins the sea at the west side of the harbor. Owing to the flatness of the country, the water is brackish, and there is none fresh to be had within several miles of the place. Ships, however, can be supplied at a moderate rate by the natives, who bring it from the springc in calabashes. The harbor was also 204 UNI)ER HAWAIIAN SKIES formed by an entrance through the reef, with good anchorage, but there being no village the vicinity is little frequented. I)uring my stay there were nearly sixty white people upon Wahoo alone, but the numl)er was constantly varying and was considerably (liminishel( before my departure. Although the great majority had been left by American vessels, not above one-third of them belonged to that nation; the rest were almost all English, and of those six or eight were convicts who had mad(e their escap)e from New South Wales. Many in(lucements are held out to sailors to remain here. If they conduct themselves with propriety they rank as chiefs and are entitled to all the privileges of the order. The king has a considerable number in his service, chiefly carpenters, joiners, masons, blacksmiths and bricklayers. These he rewards liberally with grants of land. Some of these peol)le are sober andl inlustrious, but this is far from being their general character. There were no missionaries upon the island (luring the time I remained in it, at which I was afterwardl much surl)rise(l. Most of the whites have married native women, by whom they have families, but they pay little attention either to the education or to the religious instruction of their children. I (1o not recollect having seen any who knew more than the letters of the alphabet." Calmpbell (lescribes a morai andl the service held therein at which he was present. and the text refers to "Papa-enaena' on the slopes of Diamondl HIea(l. lie continues: "Their mnorais, or places of worship, consist of one large house or tenm)le with some smaller ones around it, in which are the images of their inferior gods. The tabooe(d or consecrate(l precincts are marked out by four square posts, which stand thirty or forty yards from the buildling. In the insi(le of the principal house there is a screen or curtain of white cloth hung across one enl(, within which the image of Etooah is place(l. When sacrifices are offere(l, the priests and chiefs enter occasionally within this space, going in at one side and out at the other. * * ()On the outtsi(le are placed several images made of wood, as ugly PIONEER F()REIGNERS IN HAWAII 205 as can be well imagined, having their mouths all stuck round with dog's teeth. "I knew only one instance of capital punishment, which was that of a man who had violated the sanctity of the morai. Having got drunk, he quitted it during taboo time, and entered the house of a woman. He was immediately seized and carrie(l back to the morai, where his eyes were put out. After remaining two clays in this state he was strangled, and his body exposed before the principal idol. "The houses of the natives are of the simplest form. They are oblong, with very low side walls, and hig h thatched roofs. Within they are not divided into separate apartments, nor have they any seats or tables. "It is only by size that the houses of tlle chiefs are distinguished from those of the lower order, for the samle barn-like shape is universal. They are, however, kept very clean; anl their household utensils, consisting of wooden dishes and calabashes, are hung, neatly arranged, upon the walls. \hile the floors of the meaner houses are bare, except the pllace for sleeping, where a few mats are spread, those of the hi-her order are entirely covered over with mats, many of which are worked with great elegance into different patterns. At one end a platform, raised about three feet fromt the ground, wlich extends the whole breadth of the apartment, is spread with a layer of rushes and covered with mats. This forms the sleeping place for the upper part of the family; the attendants sleep at the opposite endl. "lFew of the houses, except the largest, have any wilndows, the light being admitte( by the door, which is seldom closed. The dwellings of the upper ranks are generally surrounded by a paling. "** Instead of calndles the tootooee nutt (kukui nut) is used, which, being of an oily nature, yields a considerable quantitv of light. "A simple garment called paw [pa-u] forms the principal part of the dress of the wonen; it consists of a piece of cloth about one yard broad and three in length, wrapped several times around 206 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES the waist, with the end tucked in below, and reaching to the calf of the leg. In cold weather they throw another piece of cloth, like a plaid, over their shoulders. Round the neck they often wear wreaths of the leaves of a fragrant plant called miri [mailel, resemblling those of the vine. * * "An ivory ornament, called palava [palaoa] is very generally worn, suspended by a hair necklace. The hair is combed back in front, andl llastered over with a kind of limle made from burnt shells. Ti'is practice bleaches that on the forehead nearly xwl ite. "Their heads are adorned with wreaths of flowers strung on the stem of a small creeping plant. They prefer purple, yellow and white, and arrange them alternately, three or four inches of each color. This is twined several times around the head and has a very elegant appearance. "* I t- Thev are at great pains in ornamentilng themselves, for which I)Urpose every femnale is provided with a small mirror. All ranks pay the utmost attention to personal cleanliness. The (lress of the men consists merely of a small girdle, made of taper [tapal, called the maro [malol. Upon great occasions the chiefs wear elegant cloaks and helmets of red and yellow feat hers. "* -!*: 'iAlmost all dealings are conducted by barter; they know the value of dollars, and are willing to take themi in exchang'e, but they seldom appear again in circulation, being always carefully hoarded up. "Throwing the top shoots of the sugar cane at each other and catching them in flight, is a favorite amusement, the practice of which tends to render them very expert il the use of the spear. "Dancing, wrestling, an(l foot-races are also common amusements, particularly at Macaheite [Makahikil time. * * * From their earliest years tlie natives spend much of their spare time in the water. "They have a game somewhat reselmbling( draughts but more complicated. It is played u)pon a board about twenty-two inches 1b fourteen, painted black, with white spots, on whiich the men PIONEER FOREIGNERS IN HAWAII 207 are placed; these consist of black and white pebbles, eighteen upon each side, and the game is won by the capture of the adversary's pieces. Tamaahmaah [Kamehameha] excels at this game. I have seen him sit for hours playing with his chiefs, giving an occasional smile, but without uttering a word. * * * Flying kites is another favorite amusement. They make them of taper [tapa], of the usual shape, but of uncommon size, many of them being fifteen or sixteen feet in length, and six or seven in breadth; they have often three or four hundred fathoms of line, and are so difficult to hold, that they are obliged to tie them to trees. "'- * * A theatre was erected under the direction of James Beattie, king's block maker, who had been at one time on the stage in England. The scenes representing a castle and a forest were constructed of different colored pieces of taper [tapa], cut out and pasted together. "I was present on one occasion at the performance of 'Oscar and Malvina.' This piece was originally a pantomime, but here it had words written for it by Beattie. The part of Malvina was performed by the wife of Isaac Davis. As her knowledge of the English language was very limited, extending only to the words 'yes' and 'no,' her speeches were confined to these monosyllables. She, however, acted her part with great applause. The Fingalian heroes were represented by natives clothed in Highland garb, also made out of taper [tapa], and armed with muskets. "The audience did not seem to understand the play well, but were greatly delighted with the afterpiece, representing a naval engagement. The ships were armed with bamboo cannon, and each of them fired a broadside, by means of a train of thread dipped in saltpetre, which communicated with each gun, after which one of the vessels blew up. Unfortunately the explosion set fire to the forest and had nearly consumed the theatre. "During the time I resided with Davis, Teremytee [Keliimaikai], the king's brother, died. His body lay in state for a few 208 UNDEIR HAWAIIAN SKIES (lays in the morai, and was afterwards buried, accordin-o to custom, in a secret manner. "IThe public mourning that took place on this occasion was of so extraordinary a nature, that, had I not been an eye witness, I couldl not hiave cretlited it. "Th1-e natives cut off their hiair, and went about completely nakel. M~Aany of them, particularly the women, (isfigured themselves bvy knockillng out their front teeth, antid brandinig their faces w\Nith red hot stones andl the small end of calahashes which they hieldl burning to their faces till a circular mark was produced.' 1Thus is lbriefly set forth a lpicture of life in Honolulu in 1800 anil 1810. By this time many of the ancestors of the old, prefissiollnarv fam-ilies had become establishled andl were raisingFami i lies ill Honolulu. CHAPTER XII TRAGEDY MARKED DISCOVERY OF HONOLULU HARBOR A VERITABILE CROSSROADS OCI THE PACIFIC EIRIEN NE and beautiful, particularly in the early morning when tlhe sun rises above picturesque, even majestic, Diamonld Iiea(l, and tints the cloud(s with rose hues; anl at eventide when the sun, a glorious molten 1)all, is sinking below the horizon amid a fiery glory reflectedl,-ort'eously in the sky and co)ppering the clouds, the harbor of Honolulu lives up to the exl)ressive sol)riluet given this haven of ships i) D)r. Serelno I ishop), scieltist-lissionary of Hawaii, "'lle l'aradise of the I acific." TraCged(y marked the (liscovery, in 1794, that there wxas a channel for ships and a harbor within the reefs at Honolulu, a few miles distant from the bay of Waikiki, where, tup to that time, all shilps hald been brought to anchor. Waikiki was the favored place of resi(lence of the king and chiefs of Oahu, as it was afterwards of Kamlehanmeha I and subsequent rulers, until a )alace was erected in the town of Honolulu in the early 'forties. Lonolulu in 1794, even when the missionaries arrive(l, was a mere stra^g',linll village, unimportant to the chiefs. It was formerly called Kou, after the chief of that name who exercised feudal control over the listrict. At Pakaka (The Point), which extended into what is now the harbor, there was a telnl)le. Evenltually tide lands in front of the Point were filled and wharves built. The fort, built in 1816, was erected largely ulpon the made lanl, an(l today the entire area is the site of the most extensive of the territory's wharf system, with (locks of the most modern typle, capable of accommodating the largest passenger and freight shis that ply the Pacific. 210 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES HI-onolulu was named after a stone, which is still extant, that lay in the district of Palamea. In November, 1794, the harbor of Honolulu, called by the Hawaiians "Ke Awa o Kou" (the harbor of Kou), was discovered by Captain Brown of the British ship BatterzWorth, and called by him, "Fair Haven." It was first entered by the schooner Jackall, her tender, followed shortly afterward by the schooner Prbince Le Boo and the Lady Washilngton. This was subsequent to Vancouver's last visit, and several months prior to Kamehameha's conquest of Oahu by the utter rout of King Kalanikupule and his army in the celebrated battle of the Nuuanu Pali, in April, 1795. The story of the discovery of the harbor is linked closely with the last campaign of Kamehameha and is worthy of the telling. On the departure of Vancouver, warlike operations were resumed. The superior equipmenlt and discipline of Kamehameha's forces, led by chiefs of tried courage, military skill and fidelity, and headed by the best general of the group, found him ready for the final trial at arms. TKaeo, king of Kauai, and Kahekili, the aged king of Maui, the latter havingi b)een one of Kamneehameha's foremost opponents for years, united their forces at Oahu and sailed with a large number of canoes for Hawaii. The naval force of Kamehameha, the flaFship of which was the schooner Brittania, presented by Vancouver, armed with three brass cannon taken from the schooner Fair z llicrican when that vessel was seized and the crew, with the exception of Isaac Davis, put to death, met them off Kohala, and in an eng,-agemenelt destroyed or dispersed the combined fleet. The vaqcluished chiefs fled to Maui. Kahekili, worn down with age and misfortunes, foreseeing the ultimate triumph of his foe, pleaded for a truce. In a message to Kamehameha, in reply to a challenoge to battle, he said, "Wait till the black tapa covers me, and my kingldom shall be yours." His death soon took place. Kaeo, unmindful of the common enemy, and exasperated by a plot to kill him, laid claim to Kahekili's dominions, in defiance of the legal rights of his nephew. Kalanikupule. Kaeo at first CROSSROADS OF THE PACIFIC 211 met with some success, and several foreigners in the service of Kalanikupule were slain. But the latter, with the assistance of Captain Brown, of the Blutterworth, and some of his crew, was ultimately victorious, and slew Kaeo in an engageement at Kalauao, Oahu, in 1794. It was in this year that Brown discovered the Honolulu harbor passage. The Jackall, tender to the Butterzvorth, was given the privilege of testing the depth of the channel and safely negotiated it. On January 1, 1795, Brown was in the harbor with his ships, including the Jackall and Le Boo. The Bntterworth had sailed for England. The American sloop Lady Washington, Captain Kendrick, was lying in the harbor at the same time. Captain Brown, on his return to Honolulu from the battle at Kalauao, fired a salute in honor of the victory. A wad from one of the guns passed through a porthole of the Lady Washington and killed Captain Kendrick who was sitting at a table. Captain Kendrick was buried on shore, and the funeral service at his interment was the first Christian rite of the kind witnessed by the Hawaiians. They looked upon the ceremony as sorcery to compass the death of Captain Brown. The grave was rifled the same night to procure the winding sheet. The Lady Washingtonz sailed soon after, leaving Captain Brown at Honolulu, who furnished Kalanikupule with firearms and, according to Dibble, established a great intimacy with him. From the assistance he had rendered Kalanikupule, and the general good feeling which a long intercourse had engendered, he felt secure from any treachery on his part, and abode with him in an unguarded manner. A petty chief suggested to the king a plot to cut off Captain Brown and his vessels. At first he was opposed to treachery, but finally consented, and a plan was concerted to capture both vessels. On the anniversary of the new year the crews were ashore engaged in pleasure and in preparing for their voyage. Taking advantage of the defenseless condition of the vessels, the natives flocked off to them. Captain Brown, and Gardner, the other commander, were instantly slain, and the possession of the decks gained. The natives then took the vessels out of the harbor and were off Waikiki when the crews 212 212 ~UNDE,'R IIA\VAIJAN SKIES on shore, sensing- the situiation, put off in their boats, and by a vigrorouis attack overpowered the natives, (Irivingy them, overboard, The crews immedliately set sail for China. At this timie Kamehameha, supported in his ambition by the last words of IKahekili, set out fromi Hawaii with all his (iisposalble force, sai(l to have numbered sixteen thousand men, to subjug-ate the neighboringr islands. Mfani, Lanai and Molokai were quickly overrun cand effectually suibdued. Kamehameha was accompanied bvy IsaaC D~avis, john. Young, and other foreigner~s, all experts in the use of firearms. Oahim was his iiext aim. In February, 1795, hie prepared for this expedition, andl landed uipon that island with one (letachment of his army. leavingr the remaindler undler colnmandl of Kaiana, with orders to follow without (lelay. KaiaLna, thinking- a favorable opportunity had arriveol to further his own ambitious, set out, but intending- to crush Kamiehameha. I [e avoidled Kamehameha and joined Kalanikupuile. Within a few weeks- K\amehameha met both chiefs at Nuntaunt and ronatel them. \'Vithin a short time after the discovery of the harbor the location was set (lown on the charts of sailing- masters. Captain 1')rotighton, of the Br1itish (liscovery ship JPro7,idcn cc, is accredlitedl with making the first suirvey of this port on his first visit in 1796. I iVe, was followed in similar work by Captain 1Kotzebuie, of the Ru'tssian frig-ate kotrick, and again by Lieutenamt MN/alden of II. h1. M.'s frig-ate Blondlc, in 1825). Other naval visitors have fro~m time to time, verified or correctedl the recor(1s of these IpIMIeers' and since tlhe establishment of the survey dlepartment of the Hlawaiian governument various suirveys have been made. After annexation to the U~nited States in 1898, the federal g-overnment unndertook the wideningy and (leepening Of the channel and harbor, andl todlay it is one of the most adlvantageously arrangedl commn'ercial harbors of the world, (leel) enoug-h and wvith adequate concrete (locks andl fueling facilities to handlle the largest vessels plying the Pacific. MNillions of (lollars have been sp~ent 1by the territorial government Inl conlstructingy wharves a~t CROSSROADS OF THE PACIFIC23 213 not only Honolulu, but at Kalhului, M.;aui; at Hilo, Hawaii, 'and Nawiliwili, Kanial, is to lbe im])rove(l. to the extent of million-s. TFo Captain Browvn uindoubtedly lbelongs the honor of the discovery of Honolului harlbor, jsasthe rig-ht of discveyOf thle Islands goes to Captain Cook. I y coincidence, both navigators lost their lives in the dlevelopment of their (liscoveries. W1aikiki ~ lbav previously possessel' the only location for thle anchorag-e of vessels and for Securing suppllies of provisionls anld water, for the anchor holds wxere certain andl there was a sandl lbeach whiere Small boats from the Ships could land. After 17o<., however, Waikiki roadsteadl was suppllanted by Honoluilu harbor for shippin ptr(55 xcept for thle large men-of-war of various nations which still anchored off Waikiki. Waikiki bay, olong a favorite location with thle H~awaiian chiefs of the ancient (lays as a lplace of residlence., where thieir War canoeCs were (lrawn uip onl the sandyV beach, Whlere surfing sports enlgagedl their atentionon gl (aSI, lost its p)restige for coimmeinrce: but what it lost as a tradincg port it gainedl as a recreation resort. and Waikiki toda-ny stand~s pre-emiinent among bathing resorts of the world. Sir ( eorge Simpson, go)vernor-in-chief of the H-udlson 1 lay Company territories, which included Hlawaii, and Who visitedlHa wai'i in 1841, referring to Captain Br1own in his book~, "An (Over1and( Journey~ Around the World," said that 11rowvn met (loath without havingy, like his lpredlecessor, Calptain Cook, (oloe anythingy to lprovoke it, being murdered for the sake of booty. hy~ the savage tenants of the very sp)ot w-hich hie Saidl was fitted to be not only thre metropolis of Polynesia. but also tlhe emporium of thle Pacific. 1 rownus foresight and his farsighlt were not incorrect. 1-i lontinln tcday stands as the metropolis, the 'crOssroadls" of the Pacific", the g-reatest military and naval ouitpost of the Unite I States, of which it is nlow an integyral part, and the most importanit shipping lport between the American and Asian continents. Honolulu is lprelparedl todlav to standl the test of Captain Brown's hOp~es, with its series of modern, multiple piers and 214 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES slips; its huge wharf sheds and cargo warehouses; its coaling and oil fueling plants; its drydocks; its floating coal and oil conveyors; its iron works and repair shops lying adjacent to the harbor front; its great nests of fuel oil tanks; its quarantine pier and quarantine island lying close by to combat the introduction of diseases from foreign ports; its deep and ever increasing harbor area; its ship canal to connect with Kalihi basin that there may be a greater Honolulu harbor; its lighthouses; its fortifications; its army and navy wharves and storehouses; its sugar handling' appliances, where nearly 750,000 tons of bagged brown and white sugar are handled annually from the fertile fields of Oahu and other islands, to be loaded into ship holds; its great modern hotels, costing millions, located in the heart of Honolulu and at H-onolulu; its handsome bank structures; and finally, its lofty "Aloha Tower," rising high above the waterfront, a Hawaiian welcome to the travelers who may see its summit from far out at sea. With light depth in the (lays when a forest of masts of sailing ships almost clogged the harbor, it has been deepened to permit the greatest draught of warships and passenger liners, such as the (great British Battleship Hood and the giant Cunard liner Carinthia. Sir George Simpson's account of his approach to Honolulu harbor throws a light upon the methods of bringing vessels into the harbor in a (lay when steam tugs were unknown, and when towing power was principally lodged in the rippling muscles of HI-awaiians, who in large numbers towed the vessels up the channel by wading along the shore. "On coming in sight of Honolulu," says Sir George, "we had made signals for a pilot by hoisting our colors, and very shortly two canme off to us, Reynolds, an American, boarding the Joseph Peaboby, and 'Old Adams,' an English tar who had lived on the Islanls these thirty or forty years, and appears to have been aI)pointe(l to his post from a British man-of-war, taking the Cowclitz in charge. 'Old Adams,' who knows his work well, is very tenacious of his official dignity; and we are told that last autumn when he was piloting the Tk'inccunlcs, he flared up at some inter CROSSROADS OF THE PACIFIC 215 ference or other on the part of Commodore Wilkes, called his boat alongside, and left the vessel, and her commander's judgment to boot, in the lurch." Digressing from Sir George's statement, Captain Adams was the first to fly the new Hawaiian flag on a ship which sailed for China in 18'16. He was originally a nan-of-warsman, serving at Trafalgar, and is said to have been coxswain of the boat which took Lord Wellington ashore when the latter went to the Peninsula to wage his campaign against the French, and took His Lordship ashore on his shoulders. "The harbor," continues Sir George, "which is capable of containing about forty vessels, appears to owe its existence to the peculiar habits of the lithophyte. The coral reefs, such as generally gird the Polynesian islands, form a natural breakwater, while a gap in the work of the submarine architects is wi(le enough for the passage of ships without being so wide as materially to diminish the amount and value of shelter. Generally, though, as Sir Edward Belcher has shown, not universally, such openings are to be found only on the leeward sides of the Islands, while their precise position on the same is said to be commonly, if not exclusively, opposite to the mouths of streams, the temperature of the fresh water being supposed to be too low for the taste and health of the little builders. "With both these conditions the harbor of Honolulu literally complies. To say nothing of its being on the southerly coast of the island, it receives a brook that has just escaped from the almost frigid atmosphere of the mountains, formed, as it is, from the nlumlerless cascades which rush down the sides of the valley of Nuuanu, or "Great Cold," in the very rear of the town. Whether or not the proximity of the cold water satisfactorily explains the phenomenon in question, the antipathy of the insect to that element seems to be a matter of fact beyond denial or doublt. It is almost entirely within thirty degrees of latitude, on either side of the equator, within the range, in fact, of the trade windls, that the labors of the lithophyte abound; while, even within such assigned limits, they are far more widely spread in ~~ I ~f ~ ~;:: ~:;~14"" :QOj" :ig~... h(f: ~:. L p ~V "WI I: 1 P''lln: _~8: r:~`~ i.;'D~.~~E .~;~_,~.g s" i? ~- g* " riil I i~ ;n ~,i~ -* i88i - B;;;rxi"" 1 a "i i.:.I,? "lilllil,"L: Irl"lil, ri. s " [ls. , TjllTrlng uklrls2ec:rlrB I~j-aLcl~flt~(j Ill:ilJell Or 1X:lii Cf)llilet(i llr iluleric L~EI:lnn 04 1-r~or);cl nlnoltl~i Iliibli; ia tJlcl IIIl-se:L isrcla. CROSSROADS OF TIlE, PIAC-iFIC 217 the Asiatic section of the ocean, oil which the current flows from the south, than on the American section, oil which the current comes dTown from the Arctic seas. ''As the entrance to the lbasin is too intricate to he attemlpted lhy anythlingy but a fair wind, we vere reluctantly ohliged to wait for the sea breeze, which generall hilows in the mornling fromt a little hefore sunrise to ahout 9 o'clock, andl we accordlingly anchorel for the nig(ht in the outer roadls.' This is the wordl picture which Sir (George gives of Honolulu, \vent v-one years after the missionaries' arrival, the first year that the k-ing-dom had a legislature: '\ATe had just alchored in front of a large and(I flourirshing tovn into which the enterlprise of the English race had attracted upwards of eigSht thousand comparatively civilized natives, and on the self same (lay, the 11th of Veheruarv, 1but ini the year 1779, did Cook return to Kealakekua Bfay, I-T'awaii, after what apearedl to he his final (leparture, to seal, ere a week should have elalpsel, his (iscovery with his hlood. ''On tle muorning of the 12th we were all hestirrino- betimes. W'Vhile the vessel was preparing to enter the harhor 'hefore a fair wind, we took a more careful look at the town, ohserving- in lparticular a fort well proJvided, to all appearance, with guns, anid admirably situated for commilandingy the niarrow and intricate passag-e, and, in the ev-ent of hostilities, we couldI not help thinkinog that even the most formidable visitor would he wise, while oin the safe side of the reef, to hegin 1)y smashiing so ugly a customer into silence. B'Aut the harhor is saidl to have worse enemies than shot and shells. In consequi-ience of the gradnal risino- of the [slanids, to which I have already alluded ', the op)ening of the reef is stiupposel to he (lilninishing in (lepth, while the Nutiani hrook is neutralizing its dlelpth hy washing (lo\vn mountain muid.' T'lhen camae the unique p~rivilege of heing towedl into the harhor h\- nman-power. "Oin entering the channel," lie continues, "whose hreadIth did not exceed twice the length of the Cowitv~tI,- we could alnost have touched with an oar a crowdl of natives who were elhowing each other on the reef uip to their mliddlles in water, 10 218 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES all the while jabbering and shouting and bellowing in their outlandish language, which, by reason of the numerical superiority of its vowels, and the softness and indistinctness of the consonant, resembled rather a continuous howl than an articulate language. ()On our anding out a hawser to these fellows, who, if sufficiently numerous, could, I verily believe, tow a vessel swimming, we were speedily hauled close to the wharf; and, after mooring our ship and saluting the town, we prepared to go ashore." Strange to say, however, that although Honolulu was the town, shipping men often referred to the harbor as "Brown's Harbor." Sir George had a vision of a Panama Canal and a great increase in maritime cormmerce and growing importance of Honolulu as a port of call for the ships of all nations plying the Pacific. "When the ports of Japan are opened," he prophesied, "and the two oceans are connected by means of a navigable canal, so as to l)lace the group in the direct route between Europe and the United States on one hand, and the whole Eastern Asia on the other, then will the trade in question expand in amount and variety, till it has rendered Oahu the emporium of at least the Pacific Ocean, for the products, natural and artificial, of every corner of the globe. "Then will H-onolulu be one of the ports of the world, one of those exchanges to which nature herself grants in perpetuity a more than royal charter. "If these anticipations-and even now they are not drealls ---be ever realized, the internal resources of the Islands will find the readiest and( aImplest dlevelolment in the increase of domestic consumplltion, and the demnanlds of foreign commerce. The Sandwich Islands will become the West Indies of all the less favored climes fromi California to Japan. "The commnierce of this ocean will be ruled and conducted by England, aided nd rivalled only by her republican offspring of America; and the merchants of these two nations, the most enterprising merchants of the most powerful nations that the world has ever seen, mtust deci!e the destinies of the sea of seas." CROSSROADS (OF TI' -I IPA\CIFIC 219 Far-sighted prophecies that all came true, except that tle United States is commercially dominant in the Pacific. H-onolulu harbor has become all, and more, than Sir (;corge anticipated. In three years, from 1836 to 1839, Hlonolulu was visited by 369) vessels, and for years afterward, until the Civil War, the liarbor frequently resembled a forest when scores of ships were anchore(l there at one time. In those (lays ships remained at anchor for weeks. Today, steamers arrive in the morningl anld lepart at nig'ht or the following' day, having discharged five to ten times as much cargo as the sailing vessel. They leave, too, loaded with sugar, pineapples and bananaas. H-onolulu has few vessels long at anchor in its harbor, and sailing vessels are now almost curiosities when moored at a wharf. The full-rig-ged shilp, certainly, is a curiosity. Tle schooner today is mainly in service as a lumber carrier from the forests of the P:acific Northwest. Warships continued to anchor off Waikiki until the eighteenfifties, when it was found possible to brinmg them into thle harb(r, but this was due mainly to the fact that warshils were beg>inning to change from frigates and sloops of war into steam warships. There are meager accounts of the (lawmingl of Htawiii's maritime era, for newspapers were not publishe(l ill I onoltulu until 1836. In the early clays vessels plyingi in island waters were owned, principally, by the king and chiefs, and such was their ambition to possess foreign vessels that fabulous prices, in several instances, were paid by them for craft sut)posed to be suited for inter-island service. Until the Pill of Rights was grante(d 1) Kamehameha 1i, in 1840, His Majesty's common subjects (lared not presume to own anythingl so coveted by their superiors. The first vessel to enter inter-island service, with hea(dquarters in Honolulu harbor, was for the king's use, which, in the first instance, was (lecide(lly warlike, since the Berctlania (3 rittanlia), the first vessel built at these Islands (in 1793), through the aid of Vancouver's carpenters, and shortly after being' launche(l, was employed in the naval combat with the combined fleet of Kaeo and Kahekili off the Kohala coast. Other vessels were doubtless built owing to the success of the Bcrctalzia. There 220 UNDER IJAWAIIAN SKIES were lbrigs and other small sailing vessels in inter-island service for years, but many were lost oil the reefs through incompetency and (irunkenness of the native commanders and crews, as well as hy white masters. The origin of steam coasting service in the Islands, with I-lonolulti as a base, is credlited to the steanIshi) Constitutionl, which arrived from California January 24, 1852, and was the first steamsliip) to ply hetween two island ports, untler a five-year contract for a mionopoly executed by the government with one Mr. HIowardl. Thie steamer, hiowever, proved uniwieldy for interislan(l service, being a 600-ton propeller. After making one rounti trip, to Laahaina she was sent hack to San Francisco. Oin Novemher 12, 1853, the side-wheel steamer S. B. Wlicclcr, E11llis, commander, arrived from, San Francisco to enter the island tra(Ie un(ler the auspices of the Hawaiian Steam Navigation C(o., of San -Urancisco. Her name was chiang-ed to Akalitai, and with the exception of'an occasional trip to Ian ai,,her service was confined to ()alih and Maui. The vessel, however-, was too small and too 01(1 and, after a year's bluffeting \vith fate, made her memorable last tril) oil September 24, 1854. She took 415)0 passenglers, nineteen horses, several princes, and her guardls were almost awash. She was struck by a storm and near-l foundered, hut her master fiuiallv got her to Lahlaina. She was condemned there all(l broken utp. Thie legislature of 1854 confirmed the charter of the Hawaiian Steam Navig-ation Co.. hut it failedI to keep its contract. Inl 18.58 anotlier group took over the old company anml the steamer Kllatnca of 414 tons, was construtctel at Bloston, arrivinglo- at _Iflb6oluln June 28, 1860, after a passage of 175 (laays. She was, called "otur owvn vessel." The islani service commencedl Tilv 18, 1860, by a tril) to Kauai. Thie KlI'latica was often laid up for repairs. In 1871, she was (lespatchedl by the ggovernment to Ocean island, to rescue the officers and crewv Of the IT. S. S..Saguianc, which had been wrecked en route from tididwav Island 10 IHonoluilu. For eighteen years the Kilaurta was in service. She was sold anile resol(d and finally auctioned off, ran oin reefs, was CROSSR(OADS ( —)F THE P~ACIFIC21 221 lbrongh-lt off, repairedl a11( punt onl another islalld rn, and finially camte to a Ileaceftil end inl Honolulu harbor. In her career she was owlledl by llrivate interests and the goverl-nment. With the passage of the Reciprocity Treaty in 1876 a newv era nl steam coastingy dawvned, for the treaty gave impetns to the agricultural resources of the Islallds. P-rior to tha time trad had langnuishied. The whaling indlustry, which for nearly forty years hadl leen one of the mainisprings of Hawaii's prosperity, wvas sadlly (lisrnpte(I when the Confederate cruiser ~Slicimidoahi (lestroyedl the Un ited States wvhaling fleet inl the Pacific, inclnulin g) also a 1Hawalaiia whaler at Ascension Islan(l. In 1871 almost tile entire whalingy fleet was crnshedl inl the Arctic ice, which wvas a hard blow to Honiolniln's business. It was then that impetnis was (iven to thle need of a Reciprocity Treaty. To the eniergy and enterprise of the late Samutel G. Wilder is due much of the credit for the rapid advancement inl thle growth inl inter-island steam service and the gTrowth. of the Wilder Steamship Co., which hie organizedl. His first vessel was namied thle Likelike, after Princess Likelike, sister of Kingo- Kalak-ania. Thien came the steamers JKilaueaC'l Fon, ihlokolii and Lelta,, and the Kiuau, built inl 18813, and still in service. Closely, Rallied inl energy an nepise, and inl harmonious rivalry, was5 tile biter-Island Steam Navigyation Co., whose hlead alll froiit wio),1 TF. R. PUoster. They purcilased nlanxT vessels, a~lling, as occasion dellandled, inicluding( tieflls fkecc, C. 1?. Bishsop, JIc'alai, [V. G. flaill, If laicaic', Pelt-, hailivloa, Ilearly all built lin the 'eighties. Tile NX'ilder and Inter-Island companies mlerged Several years a git tile Tnter-Island Steam Navigation Co., and in 19295 tile Nl\atson Navig-ation Co., one of tile largest collp-ailies operating vessels ill tile Pacific, and particularly enlgagedl ill trade lbetweenl the Pacific coast aild the Hawaiiall Islailds, botyigit heavily inl tile Illter-Islandl collpany. The MXatson Navig-ation Co. was founided by Cap-,taini Williaml \Matsoil. a -Swede, wN~ho, after sailillg as a commilonl sailor to tlle Pacific Coast, eillgagedl oil a vessel whichl sailedl to Hilo. Eveiltual 222 2UNDl ER HI-:AAIIAN SKIVES 1 l he bought and captained the schooner Elnila Claudine, which plied between San Francisco and Hilo, carrying merchandise to the Islands and sugar to the coast. He saw future possibilities. Ite lmae friends of sugar men at Honolulu and elsewhere. With them he founded the Matson Navigation Co., and one by one vessels with his flag appeared, until in 1()9 the company will be operating the most palatial liner between San Francisco and Holnollulu ever built ill an American shil)yard —the l1alolo (Flying Fish). It will carry 600 first-class passengers and make the run lbetween the ports il four and a half (lays, cutting down the present time )y nearly two (lays. The company is also complleting (1926-27) a two million (lollar hotel at Waikiki, to be called the Royal Hlawaiian Hotel, rivaling in splendor many of the finest hotels on the mainlland. The Matson colmpany carries the majoritv of tourists to an(l from the Islands, and pIractically all the sugar anll cannedl pinleapp)lle pro(luct of the Islands. The company, in 1(27, will operate the Maldolo, [llatsonia, Mlaui, Wlilhclmina,.Illioa and J1ilinc as passenller vessels, andl has a fleet of freigllters. The c(ompany operates soime of its passenger liners to IIilo to permit tourists to have a through passage to visit the (volcanlo of IKilauca. Cal)tain Matson was a towering captain of il(lustry. In Mlay, 1926. the Matsonl Cot1p)any plurcllased the )ceanic Steamship Coompany from the Spreckels interests, an(l contilnued that line oin tlhe former Saln Ir-ancisco ---onollult-Australia route. The Matson Comp!any is now one of the foremost shilpping corp)orati'los flyin the \iAlerican flag. The Matson Conlliany carries onl a vast ad(vertising calmpaign throughout the United States to enlist tourist traffic to the Ha-waiian Islanl(sthe "Playgrounld of An\terica"-and manifests unusual entcrl)rise in its activities. 'iThe 1(os Anlgeles Steamslip Company, organized about four years ago to (levelop tourist traffic between Los Angeles and Ilonolulu, has been successful and carries hundreds of tourists oil its two vessels, the Cift of Los:lnotcls, formerly a German liner in the Atlantic, andl the Calawaiii. It is a popular route, the run being mla(le in about six days each way. Thle Los Angeles CROSSROADS OF TFIE PANCIFIC23 2 2 3 Chamber of Commerce is strong-ly behind the company, and a large tonrist and freight carrying trade is being butilt npl. Other companies op~erating with Honoluiu as a p)ort of call are the iDollar Steamship Co., plying lbetween San Firancisco and1 )rient lports, via 1-lonotinhi, this companv hav~ino inl 1925" taken over the 01(d Pacific Muai Steamship Comlpany the Nippon Ynisen 'Ka —isha, a Japanese line, calling- at Honolnin the Oceanic Steamship Company, operating between San F~rancisco and Antstralian l)orts, via H~onolnlu, the steamers, Sierra, Son oma and I" entura: the Canadiall-Australasian to., operating between \Vancouver. British Colnm-ibia, andl Anstralasian ports, two large vessels; the Cnnard, Canadian Pacific. Red Star and WVhite Star compamies, operating rotnnd-the-worldl liners alnnwdlly. each calling at Hil1o and~ Honolnlin. \Yarships of A\merica, Itnglanml, France, IKnssia, (Germlany an d Italy formerly called at Honolnin-)ut very frequently, and the oldstyle vessels were often ancliorel ain naval row for weeks. These visits are not now so frequent, althonigh at times tlhe hiarbor is filled with sqntadrons of vessels flying foreigYn flags, snch (as the B1ritish Special Service sqnadron, incindino- the giant battleship ifood. As a rnle, ain the olden (lays, the visits of wvarships accentnated social activities,, with recelptions andl balls tendleredl the officers at the royal lpalace- teas and balls on board, and social fnnctions at tlhe residences of citizens. The harbor was gray those nighlts wh-len rowvboats carriedl arounnd the harbor gronps playing- uknlel es and gntitars and sing-ingy Hawaiian mielodies. It was thenr a Honolnln snch as travelers (lreamedl abonit. lint warships entered at times on more serions missions. Thleir gnins were ready, if need be, for action. There wvas the British frig-ate Carvs fort, in 1843;Admiral dle Tromelin's Poursimi'-antc in 1849, there was the Boston-, in 1893;there was the ANaniwca, jalanese, In 1897, with Captain Tog-o, afterwards the famous-;\dmiral Togro, in command, who came to deniand indemnity fromn the Repniblic of H'awvaii. Amknerican marines were landled inl the city when Kalakania was elected ine 1874 amnd a riot followved. 2 I2, 4 224 ~UNDER HAWVAI[AN SKIES i\ I arinies laiile~d from the Tuscarora and Portstmouth 'when Qiueen Lihluokalani was overthrown in January, 1893. in'Kalakania's boathouse fronited on the harbor anid was the miecca of ogood fellows, boon comlpanmons of the kinig anid manyv new made friends, a reni(lezvous for merry parties. H-awail, once had a, navy-onie 'warship-the Kaimiiiloa, which imade one voyage to the South Seas in 1887, and returnedl In "A few moniths to rot away its timbers in niaval row. Those were the (lavs of romanice anid adivenitu-re, when ''Bully' Haves types of seafaringo men came into the harbor now and then;when lgr~acefuil sailing yachts arrived fromt strange seas, and ofteni with st rmiige, mysteriouis Men on hoard, sometimes lookingo over the fiel(I to (leteruline how opium could be landedl. Butt H-onlolulu haks alway's b~een a lpeaceful sort of harbor, a real haven for vessels in (listress' a, port wvhich is 'well gutarded againist the Inltrodluction of epidlemics; a port where all vessels may find proxender anil lbe repairedl. IHonolulu ha-rbor todiay is prepaledl for aniy (lemand m1-a(le upon it by the shippling worl(l.( )ne of the achievemients of the territorial] government was the (locking- of the sUl)cr battle cruiser Hood in 1924 at a commercial pier, althouigh the warship is 864 feet long- anid 105 wide, 'with a (lisplacemielit of 41,500 tons. All H.onioluilu hiarbor's docks, slips, warehouses and shippiwI, facilities are miolern. II10o0nolnlu harbor and Kalihi harbor, a mile (listant, were conlnectedl inl 1926 by dlredginlg a canal beweto enable the bulilding of wharves anid railroad terminals at Kalihi to benefit the Ipinealplle canneries, particularly in the barging of pineapples a,_cross channels from M~olokai, Mauii and Lanai islands. CHAP~TER XIII CIVILIZATION CROSSES TIIRESIIOLD FIRST MISSIONARY CRUSADEhRS AWAIJ S great adlventure Iin Christianity is one of the epics of the advancement of the faith of Christ. New Elio-land missionaries, setting forth as crusaders late inl 1819, wvere not aware as they sailedl in their (liminntive lbrigo Thaddouts from Boston, that almost at the sam-e time the 11 awaiians had heguin their own gYreat adlventulre inl aholislhing their, -ancient rehlojon, destroyling temples andl i(1015I as the result of the breaking of the (lreadl tahus, immedliatelv following tie (leath of the conqueror, Kanlehameha I. Youngl, zealous, oillv recently leavino- theolog-ical. seminaries, marrying~ equally zealous Christian young women, the missioilaries emharked for- tile S-andwich Islandls, 1-egardliig their future service as one that wvouldl he frauight with personal (lalg(ers, tnitold p~rivations ailoil- anl uiltutoredl, harlbaric, pag-an race. Unknown to them was thle great (Irama, of aii, ancienlt faith heing unfolded Iil tile Islands. Unkilown to the Islanders the g)reat adventure of sp)readling- the gospel inl Hawaii was lheo-ini~nii and little did thley kilow tilat iwas l an Hawaiian, ill New Engqlaind, who lpleadledl wit teachers of tile gospel to send~ missionaries to hlis homelailid to gain hIs people into tile iedo()er of Christ. The missionaries, arriving i tile Hawaiian -1slandls inl 1820, wvere astonishled when they leariled tilat Kanlellainela I was (lead that Lih1oliho, his sonl, wvas king; that the tenulpes and ido01s had alreadyv heen (lestroyedl, and that they were ahout to offer the religioil of (Ahrist to a natioii tihat was religioiless, a shipil witilout ~a ruoldler of faitil. Vast clhanges hadl taken lplace Ill tile holiticail and religious hIstory of the -Hawaiian race previous to tile arrival of tile first 226i UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES missionaries. Many of these resulted from the free intercourse of the people of other nations with the Islanders, so soon had their existence become known to the civilized world. After a few years intercourse with foreigners. beholding their vast superiority over themselves, arising as they supposed from the difference of their religion, it xwas natural that as soon as Kamehameha was (lead there should arise a party among the natives who rejected their ancient tabu, and embraced, in theory so far as they understood it, the religion of the foreigners. At first this party was small, but continued to increase, lue to the fact that Keo)puolani, the tabu princess, who was wife to Kamehameha I, broke the tabu in the presence of a multitude of the people. The latter watched the breaking of the ancient tabus with dread, but as nothing happened to the great chiefess or her son, who was to become Kamehameha III in a few years, they were quick to espouse the cause that called for the destruction of the old religion and its symbols. Liholilho (Kamehalmeha II) \\as one of those who joined the labu breakers. The reactionaries, those who still felt that the ancient religion was applrol)riate. followed the leadership of a chief. A battle followe(l and the rebel's forces were defeated, andl so fell the ancient religion. It was in this state that the missionaries found the race which tlley holped to Christianize. P'rovi(ience had prepared the way for them. It was oni the 4th day of A;\lril, 1820, that the Thadderis, with seven male and seven female missionaries, came to anchor in the bay of Kailua, island of Hawaii; and on the 8th the king and chiefs, after long conferences, consented to their landing and residing on the island. Three years afterward(s a reinforcelent consisting of seven males andi six females arrived in tle spring of 1823; a third, of f(our males and four femlales, in the spring of 1828; a fourth, of ten malels and nine females, in the spring of 1831; a fifth, of ten males and nine females. AMay, 1832 a sixth, of three males and six females, in the spring of 1833; a seventh, fifteen males ald seventeen females, in the spring of 1835; an eighth, of four Pioneering ill Hawaii fore Cbristianity iva'aaR inaagurated a lMarch, 1820, when theae baveii~ a ait]e n af New Dighmlf d landed an 11raxeiiauit s es fron the brig Thadde, hlieaded by llevs. Aaa Thurston wliw41ain Bdnghaa. 1 228 UNI)IER HAWAIIAN SKIES males and four females, in the spring of 1837; a ninth, of four nales and four females, 1841; a tenth, of three males and three fenlales, 1842; an eleventh, of four males and four females, 1844. In January, 1842, one male and one female joined the mission at the Islanls from the Oregon mission. Sixty-one males and sixty-seven females were employed in mission work since 1820. (f these a ilnlmber d(ie(l, many returned home. some became disconnected with the mission to remain in the Islands, associated with the ad(linistration of the government, others continuted( in their labors on behalf of the H-awaiian people. Not all were missionaries. In the first colntingenlt only two were ordained ministers, Rev. Asa lThurston andl Rev. }liram Billngham, bolth graduates of Andlover. Ir. r.Thomas -I(olman was a lphysician; Daniel Chamberlain, a farmer; Samuel \Vlhitney, meclhanic and teacher; Samuel Ruggles, catechist and teacher; E:lisha Loomis, printer andl( teaclhe. Each of these men was accomplanie(l by his wife, alndl Ianiel Chamberlain bv his five clildren in adl(litionl. F1ach conltilnzent had its varie(l list of missionaries, some ora(linedl. others lot, some teachers, otlers p)rinters aill mechanlics, for the Amlerican 1:,Board (of Commllissi:ollers of Io:)reinll Missions, at IBoston, )elieved in the adlvallcement of Chllristianitv han1d ill han( with the plow, the hlammer and saw and health. Up to 1842, the greatest lluml)ber of mission laborers in the field at one time ii(l not exceed eighty adults, or forty families, land these were s)rea(l over the islands of Hlawaii, Matui, MAolokai, ()ahu a(l Kauai. ()f course, to sustain so large an establishiment the expenditures must have l)een very great. Tlhese were ilcurre(l in suip)lorting tlle lissiolnaries, plrovidling them with (lwellings; in the p)ritting an(l bildining of books for the seminary at Laha;inaluna and the printingy establishnment at Honoluolu in the erection of churches all schoolhoullses, an(l in the circulation of b)ooks. Travel expeises froml tile United States to Hawaii were heavy, the missionaries sailing on vessels wlich were loadinl cargo for HIawaii anl otler Pacific ports. The entire amount exl)en(led, from the first establislment of the mission up to 1844, aioutitedl to $608,865. Fifty thousand (lollars of tllis was fur FIRST MISSIONARY CRUSADERS 229 nishe(l by the American Bible Society; $19,774 by the American Tract Society, and $539,090 by the American Board of Missions. Eighteen missions were established. In adlition to two printing offices and a billdery, a commiodious seminary, schoolhouses and churches, forty permanent dwelling houses for the accommodation of the missionaries were erected. The results of all this immense lalor and expense are sufficient to establisl in every reflecting mind the utility of Christian missions. The great object held in view in the missionary enterprise was the conversion of the Islanders. The Christian faith was not only introduced but was adlopted as the religious faith of the nation. In a(lditioin to this, t te -lawaiian lalnguage, hitherto only a spoken language, was systematized and reduced to writing; fifty thousland copies of tile New Tlestament and twenty thousan(l of the Old Testament were issued from the H awaiian press; seventy different works, scientific, historical and religious, were translated alnd publishedl; one-half of the aldult )population taught to read, and nearly all of the children gathered into the schools. Realding, writinlg, geograp)hy, arithmetic, surveying, navigation, algebra, history, l)hilosophy were taughlt in the schools, sole of which by 1844 beg-an to rank with manly in New Elnglanl1. The year 1844 is giveln as a selected (late in listing tlhe successes of the missionalries, for )y that time a legislature was making tle laws, a COllStitutioni laving been adopted in 1840, and religious tolerance and freedom grante(l, so that not only the evangelical but other faiths were being builded in tle Islands. The government, lunder thle legislative systenm, had alreadl responded to tle modern needs of the little monarchy, andl (dliplomatic relations had 1)een establishedl with tlhe Powers land her in(lel)enlence acknowledged by the United States, EIllgland and France. Written laws were enacted by which the pleople were better secure(l from olppressive actions on the part of the chiefs, and they were encouraged to cultivate industries and virtuous habits. The security, stalility and value of property by 1845 had been greally enhanced. 230 23(1 ~U.NNDI)R HIAW,,,AIIAN SKIES ()hookiahi, a Hlawaiian, was responsible for the sendinog of missionaries to 1 Iawaii. In later ye'trs IHawaiians severely criticisCel the missionaries, and wvith thle cooperation of demiagogues rail'el at their efforts, and for (lecadles the myth wvas current at home andl abroa(d thatr they had held the lbilble in one hand 'and ''gralbl)el lprolperty" withi the other. They held the bible, open., with both hiands. bFate allo-,ttedl to the I- awaijan I slands a (liffereuit role from that of other [Pacific islands in the contact of m-issionaries. The cause of the introdnction of Chitaiyis one of the dlramatic ep~isodes of both New~ E'nlgland and Hlawaii. Ini 1809, Rev. L'dwiil W. IDwhigt, a resident gradua~.te of Yale College at New I Iaveii, was pl~assing the main ibuiilding- whien hie heard somieone sob-.bing,. I le noticed a hi-owni-skinned boy crumnpled upf oin the step)s of the buildingo, and in tears..1lie questioned the youth and learned that hie was a Sandwichi Islander, that hIls nMeM Was Obookiali, that hie wanted anl e(lucation, andl above all wautedl the white manIs religion carriedl to hi s own lA eolple. The miinister took the HFawaiia tohis own ihome and personally assumedl the dutyt of giighim instruictio)n in both religiIon andl In edltcatioii. The miiiister learned that the bov, (hiring one of thle (uIsltrict wars on the island of II awaii, had lost his lparents. Th~e b-oy was taken prisonei;btit wvas rescuedI by his uncle who began to Instruct him in temlple service. lyv that time ships of foreignl landls had begutn to call at II lawaii and the bov dlesiredI to see lands beyond his own]. H-e set ouit in a vessel commanded b y Captain Britnall and eventually arrivedl iii New England. Five youngl menl, learning of the (lesires of ()bookiah, and dle-.siring that Christianity shouild lbe Introdutced in [-tawaii, met one day in the shadow of a haystack andl pledgedl themselves to seek "thle Christianizing of Hawaii and other landIs. Out of this mieeting.c~alled the "haystack meeting.' came -the onrgmization of the mis-_ -ion to the I lawaiian Islands. A- school was establiAshed at CornWvall, Conn., to train p~upils for foreign missions. Of the first twelve lpupils seven were H-1awaiian Islanders, who had dlriftedl to the United States in wh~aling and trading vessels. Obookiahl s$tudiedl long andl earnestly, started the redluction of his lanuiag-e FIRST MISSI( )NARY CRUSADERS 231 into writing, but death overtook hi in 1817, dying at the age of twenty-six, nine months after the Cornwall school was opened. For years the young Hawaiian's tale aroused deep interest and gradually the organization of the first mission went on, and in 1819 the American Board had chartered space on the American brig Thaddeus, Captain Blanchard, and in due time the company was organized as follows: Rev. Hiram Bingham and Rev. Asa Thurston, ordained ministers, graduates of Andover, and their young wives; Dr. Thomas Hlolman, physician; Daniel Chamberlain, farmer; Samuel Whitney, mechanic and teacher; Samuel Rug-les, catechist and teacher; Elisha Loomis, printer and teacher; an(l several young Hawaiians, including Thomas Hopu, \illiam Kanui and John Hlonolii, of the Cornwall school; and (eorge Tamoree (Kaumualii), son of the king of Kauai, who had spent fourteen years in America where he had been studying. The king had entrusted a sum of money to the ship's captain on behalf of his son (George, but the captain had lost it, and the boy had( wandered about, serving at one time in the U. S. Navy durin(g the Wlar of 1812. He had received education at Cornwall. On Saturday, (ctober 23, 1819, following a prayer service on the Long W\harf, at Boston, the mission I)arty was rowed out to the Thaddcus, and the following (lay the vessel sailed, its route being around Cape HIorn, and not until the end of March did the island of HIawaii loom before the little band. The Prudential Commission of the American Board issued these instructions to the party: "Your views are not to be limited to a low or narrow scale; but you are to open your hearts wide and set your mark high. You are to aim at nothing short of covering these Islands witl fruitful fields and pleasant dwellings and schools and churches and of raising up1 the whole people to an elevated state of Christian civilization." March 30, 1820, is a milestone in Hawaiian and Christian history. The Thaddcus was in sight of Hawaii with its towering Mlauna Loa volcano and Mauna Kea, snow-capped, in the distance. They had been aboard for 164 (lays. Thomas Hopu poin:edl out a valley in Kohala in which he had been born. 232 232 LTNDFVR H-AWAHIAN SKIES The mission party had not wastedl tim onisvyge. Prom the H~awaiian youths, who sp~oke 1E-nglish, they learned much about Hawaii, its lpeople, history, wars, reltnyion customs, and the intricacies of the language. They wvere not altLogyether withotit opportunity to speak (lirectly with the king andl his chief s as soon as they Iandedl. It fell to the lot of Rev. Asa Thurs'ton to be the first missionary to landl at IKailtia, Hawaii, immediately after Kamebanieha It andl Kaahuimanui, the lpremier, had(l rantedl lermi~ssionl to the missionaries to remain andi preach the message of Christ. Both hie and Rev. H1 -ira Binghan, Who was to proceed to Honoluilu, had lbeen ordlainedl at Gosheu just a week before deIparture from floston. Mr. Thurston was born at Fitchbuirg, Massachusetts, O)ct. 12", 1787, and received his hig-her eduication at Yale, 1816, and his theological training2 at Andover. H-e arrived at Kailuia, April 12, 1820, and there principally, for forty yearsl, hie livedl andl laboredl In the cause of Christianity, w-here his share of the trauslatioin of the..ilble into Hawaiian was eqjual to 18 books. In 1863 hie made a visit to California and dliedl in I-lonommil March II,, 1868. Ihis wife,, Luicy Goodale TIhurston, had a p~romin~~ent share in her huslband's work in Hawaii. She was born at 'Marlborough, Mass., oct. 29. 1795), the year that iKamehameha fough)'It his last great battle at the Ntuuanu P~ali. She married MNr. Thurston Octolber 12", 1819, and lived in the Htawaiian Islands for 56) years, miaking only two visits to the LUnitedl States, andl tlhese for her health. She (liedl in H —onoluilu onl (October 13, 1876. It is to Lucy Groodale Thuirston that much appertaining to her husbsanld's work- as a missionary in the H-awaiian Islands is best known. Of ldevout training,, of unuisual intelligence and perception, with a -facuilty for committing- the daily occurrences, of their lives in Hawaii to papler, her memnoirs forni one of the most interestincr d(escriptions of life in the Islands. Her letters andl notes showN -the graduial emergence of the [-lawaiian people from the ruins tof their self-destroved religion into the great white and endur FIRST MISSI(O)NARY CRUSADEI:RS 233 inMg light of Christianity, with which her own life was intimately interwoven. Mrs. Thurston dlid not fail to recognize the capabilities of the H}awaiian peol)le they came to teach. She had wholesomne praise for those who were conspicutous in thleir own element, even though they- still clung to the vestiges of their former religion. She ha(l only kind wor(ls for those who were stricken with the white man's vices. Hers seemed to be a helpful hand extended toward the men and women of the Hawaiian race, no matter what rank or station they held. Hers was truly a Christian mind of the moldl of the Christianl martyrs of tile Romian era, for when it was sugtgested to her that a field of Christian labor was olpen in Hawaii she felt that there was her life work. Her mneeting- with Asa Thurston, the young- missioiinary, already chosen to serve in Hawaii, solve(l the prol)lem, andl her great opportunity camle. It was ill a literal sense that she left a comfortalble home an(l frien(ls and (lear relatives in New Englandl for Christ's sake. iAtthe time she left Nevw England she ha(l no thoughlt of the mnildl anil healthful breezes, the grandl mountains and volcanoes no anticil)ationi of the (lelighltful honles and genial society that ill later years gave the Hawaiian Islands so litlch of their chl:rilm. She left home, as a writer said of the voyage of the T'haddltns, in anticil)ation of l)rotracted and p)erilous conflict with pagan rites, human sacrifices andl 1)lood(ly altars, for no intinlation hadl h)een received of thle destructionl of the H[awaiian religioln. I t was a heroism to be exlected of a (lescendlant of ancestors wiho ha(l also b)rave(l unkllown l)erils that they mighlit live their religion in freedlomn. It was the b)ravery of the (laugilter of an American who ha(l talken (lo\vi a musket the (lay the b)attle of Iexiingtto0n was foiught and who had enlistedl before the sun set that (lay in Captain I-owe's colmpany at Alarl)(botroughl and marche(l to Cambri(lge and there d(id duty in the insl)ire(l uplrisinig of the Aniericanls who fought for a great an(l en(lluring princil)le. For all her hlard(ship)s, gi,"ing up of culture and ease, her name l)ecamie familiar to a large part of the thinking lpeoI)le ill Amler 234 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES ica, and she was known and held in high honor over a large part of the Christian world. Of ('bookiah she had wholesome praise. In the opening chapter of her memoirs is this little gem of history: "Hawaii was first discovered to the civilized world in 1778. In the same year Kamehameha fought, a soldier, under his uncle Kalaniopuu, king of several districts on one individual islanl. "In the year 1810, all the islands of the group became one united kingdom under Kamehameha the Great. In the same year, in America (bookiah became theoretically the first Hawaiian convert to Christianity. They both lived after this, the one eight, the other nine years. Kamehameha in his last sickness, asked about the white man's -;od. IBut in the language of his narrator, 'They no tell him.' "Obookiah died young, with a full hope of immnortality. His prayers, tears and appeals for his poor countrymen, as described in his memoir concerning his voyage and life in New England, his desire that the Hawaiian people should 'see the light' of the gospel and civilization, and his request being finally acceeded to by devout men of New England, did more for them than he could have done in the longest life of most devoted labors. The church was newly aroused to send a mission to those who for long, dlismal ages, had been enshrouded in all the darkness of nature." There is a popular belief prevailing, even in Hawaii, that the first missionaries came to a land whose people knew not the Anglo-Saxon, and where civilized comforts were utterly lacking, lbut Mrs. Thurston herself corrects this impression, for not only lidl youing Kamehameh a II, on occasion, wear civilized apparel, patterned, as a rule, after those of English naval officers, but there was already much furniture of civilization in the homes of high ranking Hawaiians, and, strange to relate, mostly of Chinese handiwork, indicating that traders calling at Hawaii had alreadly been in China, and had given the king and chiefs tables an(l chairs and other non-heathen furnishings for domiciles, in FIRST MISSIO( NARY C:RUSADERS 235 I -7 exchan-e for food, sandalwood aind feather capes. There were also mnimy white men, Englishi and Anmerican, residing in Iwajil several of whiomi hiad occulpied hig.h places at Iiameh:Lmeha's court since 1790. Bnt this is the manner in which Rev. Asa Th'lutristoin. his xvife andl one or two other mnemhibers of the first missioiiarv party stepped ashore at _Kailua, on April 12, 1820. "After various consultations, fourteen (lays after reachingio thle Islandls, permission simplly for one year was olt~ained for all the missionaries to land upon his shores. Two gentlemen wvith the;r wives, and two native youtlhs were to stop1 at Kaailua. Thie rest of the mission was to pass onl forthwith to Honolulu. "Such an early selparation was unexpected an(d paiiiful. I it hroad views of usefulness were to he taken and private feelillns sacrificed. At evening twilight we sindleredl ourselves fromn close family ties, from the (lear ol0( hrig, alnd fromn civilizationi We went ashore and entered, as our home, anl ahode of the llmos-t un11couthl aiid hutmle character. It was a tliatched hut, with one room, having two windows madIe simply h)y cutting2 away thle thatch leaving h are poles. On the ground for the feet was a laver of g-rass, then of miats. Here we found our effects fromn the Tliaddeus: hut no arrangement of them could he made till the house was thoroughly cleansed. ''On the hoxes anid trunks, as they were scattere(l ahcout thle room, we formed a circle. We listened to a portion of thle Scripture, sang a hvnmli and knelt in prayer. TIhe simlple fact sp)eaks for itself. "It was the first family altar ever reared onl this rTouip of islands for the worship of Jehovah!" Then they learned of the foreign. furnilture the next day, for Kamamalu, queen of K-amehawehia 11, loaiiedl themii "two highcdpost beds of Chinese manufacture." Three (lays after lani(ding( "King Liholiho (Kamehameha II) gave us a large circular tahle of Chinese workmanship, having six drawvers, which hecame a very eligihle dining tahle. In that manner it was generally used for twenty years until a family of children liadl arisen andi heen 236 UNI)ER HAWAIIAN SKIES (lislerse1,l. Since which time it has thirty years graced a parlor, every year becoming more and more valuable for its antiquity, andl as having been a royal Iresent at one of the most interesting- periods of our lives." Mrs. Thurston presided at the first family sewing circle ever organized1 in Hawaii or in the Pacific, or possibly west of the ississippi river. On Mondlay, April 3, 1820, while the Jladdc'its was en route from Kawaihae to Kailna, the (ay before the i-nssion party landlel, she recordls that the first sewing circle was formed that the sun ever looked down upon in this Hawaiian realrn. l1alakua, queen (lowager, was (lirectress. She requested all the seven white ladies to take seats with theem on mats on the deck of the Tliaddcus. (T.he womien, had boarded the vessel at the first stopping place andl were, proceeding to Kailua to gain the sanction of the king to land.) Mrs. H1olman and Mrs. Ruggdles were executive officers, to ply the scissors and prepare the work. As the sisters were very miuch in the habit of journalizing, every one was a self-constituted recordin" secretary. 'I'lTe four native wvomien of (listilction were furnished with calico patchworkc, to sew a new emlployment to themn. "'lhe dlress," wrote Mrs. i1hurston, "was inadle in the fashion of 1819." The joy of first seeinlg the land of their future labors was orcat. A fter sailing 157 (lays the lparty beheldl loominyg up before thenm on MN/arch 30, 1 820, the longY-looked-for island of IVfawvaii. "AI~s we alplproachedl the northern shore joy sp)arlklcd ini every eye, gratitud(e and hope seemre(h to fill every heart. The ship anchiored. Captain B11-flanchard sent an officer, acconilanied by, I Ioptu and Honohii, to learn the state of the Islands' affairs, and the residleice of the king. Then, as Hunnewell hastily,, caine back over the side, they learned these astonishing facts from his agitated lips: "-Ianiehameha is (lea.l; his soil Liholiho is king; the kapus jtabus-I are abolished; the images are burned; the temples are dIestroved. TIhere has been war. Now there is peace!" ETverything, seemingly. had been prepared by Providence for their coining. They learned that it was in October, 1819, that FI RST MIS S I ()NARY CRUSiADERS 3 237 the flames were lighted to consumne the sacred relics of tihe great feudal system; the high priest, Hlewahewa, was the- first to apply the torch. -It was a (liffictilt position in which Liholiho was lplacedl wheu the m-iissionaries sent their letter ashore to him, written by tule American PBoard of Missions, asking permission to estaiblish the white man'Is relig-ion. Mrs. Thurston relates that tile king hade Iltt diowi one religion an(l in doing it his throiie totteredl. I t was a grave question for him to accept a newv one. But Iin the endl lie gave perm-ission andl lbecame one of the first listeners to the wordls of the new religion. M\'r. Thtirston was a man of aection. W~ithin a few (lays s0omW of the lpart1 (lecided that the hardl life ahead was not of their liin -)'n two of ouir number 'iFekel' hadl been written,' write Mrs. FlThurston. "They hakd been weighed iii the ibalance an(l were found wanting-. The wvife said she would never lbe xvillinto exercise that dlegree of self-dIenial which was called for hv a situiationi among, this people.' They left the m-ission and soon returlled to Newv Eng-land. The Thuirstons never faltered. In. xvritingr for more aidl, Mr. Thurston showed his stuirdx, ine? ing) anii Christian fihre, when hie said: '"We want menc andl women wvho have souls; who are crucifiel to the world and tile world to them; who have their eyes andl their hearts fixed on tile Glory of God Iin tile salvation of the heathen; wNIho, will he willing, to sacrifice every interest huti Ghr Is ts wN.ho xviii cheerfully andl constantly lalbor to lpronmote His cause." The first time Mfr. Thurston pireachied before the kin-g tllroug~ an interlpreter, was froni these words: "I have a iiessage fromt God ulit() thee." The kiii listenied wvith attentioii. Whenl prayve r xvas offeredl lie and his suite all knielt before the whlite mans,-. God. 'Phe king's orolers were that none huit those of rank shiould lie taughlt. 'For many Ilolitls the kiiig was foreniost as a student, h)tit hia(l lahpses. Som-e of the queens were ambilitious. The ki~n"r was solicitouis to hlave Ilis little b~rothier apply hiinself and threat in1824, the oy with thait ofti jj~i Konamainau, being brought back to Hawaoii abou d II. Bi. M.S "o ohp Iflo'uic Viql ure frono polonting o klog xtoio Ici Lodoooloo FIRST MISSI()NARY CRUSADERS 239 ened chastisement if he neglected his lessons. He told him lie must have learning for all the family, to make him wise aln able to rule. The lessons stood him ill great stead, for the chilof 1820 became king in 1825 under the style of Kamehameha III, ruled for more than a quarter of a century, gave a constitution to the people, divided his feudal lands amongst all his subjects, and completed treaties with the powers abroad that eventually treated his nation as independent and to be respectel. The Thurstons went to Maui and then to Honolulu late in 1820 by command of the king. They were met at Honolulu by Rev. Hiram Bingham and occupied a thatched hut in what became known as "Mission Center' on December 21, 1820. Mr. Bingham, his wife, Mr. Chamberlain, Messrs. Ruggles and Whitney and their wives had proceeded from Kailua, Hawaii, after the Thurstons had landed, to Honolulu, to establish the mission on O'ahu. In one window shutter of their hut was a single pane of glass, probably the first through which the sun ever sent its rays into a Hawaiian hut. Mr. Thurston had a commono dining chair to which he attached arms and rockers and with saw and jack-knife also made a settee. There was also a high-post bedl. At this time they had callers, in the person of the commander of a Russian warship, accompanied by a chaplain of the Greek church. it was difficult to persuade the king to pernlit the erection of a large wooden house in his realm for the use of foreigners. The missionaries asked many times, but as Kamehameha the Great never permitted a house larger than any lie possessed to be built, neither would he. He finally acceeded to the request an(l there was erected a frame house of the style prevalent in New England, basement, main floor and low top story, the timbers of which, all cut and ready to be fitted in place, having been brought around Cape Horn in the hold of the Thaddcus. The house still stands in Mission Center, within the shadow of Kawaiahao Church, and is now occupied as a mission museum. It was in 1821 that the king visited the Thurston cottage in Honolulu, attired, Mrs. Thurston writes, "like a gentleman, with 240 UNDER IHAWAIIAN SKIES ruffled shirt, silk vest, pantalOonS and coat. Hlow he moved aniong his subjects with all the nobility of a king!" She writes at some length of the completion of the two-story woo(Ien house in H-1onolutlu into wvhich the missionaries moved from. their early thatched huts, and where afterwards many of the missionary children wvere horn. She refers with extreme lpleasure to the formation of a H-Tawaiian alphabet and the printed page. In one year and nine mionths after the missionaries left the Tladdctus, a Hawaiian sp)ellinog hook was issued froni the lress. The chiefs received it with interest; the scholars with enthusiasm. A (loor was now )pened which allowed learningic to hecomie general. The Thurstons returned to Ka'ilna in 1823, there to take up their lermanent work. There were three thousand people in the villagre of Kailua, and within twenty miles were twenty thousand -people. They huilt a large house, for those days. Mrs. Thurstonl tatught her schools in the reception room for the Hawaiians. A church had heen built 1y the governor andl there Mr. Thurston preachedl. There was a great cave near by called "Laniakea," signllifying "the broad heavens." Bleing near the Thurston house the same niamne was giveni to their establishment. Tfrhe first Sabbath school weas established in 1825. (Ad chiefs anid young ones, andl children, xvere the )upilis. [u 1840 the Thurstons and their family sailed back to New Eng-land-1 anid returned to H awaii about 1842. takiiing upl their abode once more in Kailtna. Rev,. Asa Thurston, wvho became affectionatcly knoxvwn as ''Father Tlhurstoi," euteredl into his rest in Hionolulu on March 11, 1868, agedl eighty years and five months. In the spring of 1876 Mrs. Thurston was sudldenly attacked with a heart (lisease. She patiently lingyered on for months, sometimes compellced by her extremity of weariness to cry, "C) Lordl, how long?' Amid these (listresses she completed her selection of papers and letters to he pulhlislhed after her (leath. She died in Honolulti, October 13, 18/76. Her faith had been strongr andl fir1 ini Christ. Her hope all along- had been anchored FINRST MI1SSIOI)NARY CRUSADERS 241_ within thie vale. She had trusted fully in the God of her salvation. She wvas endowevl with a mind of unusual strengthl. One of the most outstanding nanaes associated with the estahlishmeut of Clhristianity in H-1awaii is that of Rev. Hiram flingham, whom fate selected to open the mission in Honolulu. It (levolved upon hiim, as years went on, to he the champion of the mission cause in Hlawai.i against hitter attacks lautnched upon it and indlividuals hy civilian resilents, visiting shippingy men. and even the commanders of warships of various nations. Young,, (levout, a fluent speaker, versedl in every p)age of thle Ilible, a thleologilan, lie wvas a man of visioii, who vie(l(cd uip the comforts of a pastorate that wouldl have been Ils in New England near his family\ and friends, to sail to a land which wasl_" called heathen by, all. (, )n April 12, Asa Thiturston.vent ashore at Kailna. On AIpril 19 Hiram flinoham landed at Hoonolulu. Hle lhega1- a wvork that was taken up in later (ecales wy hlis soll, Rev. 1H1iram B1iii-hlam II, who was also a mnissbonarv to the (Ji1 -hert Islan(ls, a translator of the Bible into Gilbertese, and who )s(-e son, a famous exlplorer among the lost Inca cities, hecanie Vunited States senator fromt Connecticut in 1924. it was a small region, comparatively, to which Hiram 11inghaiam came. Father W. P. Alexander was once asked what justification. a misSionarv cotuld give for spending his life converting the people of a small island commnitinity wvhen there remained conltinents of utnenliglhtened millions. Hte replied that a farm of a few acres was all that one man could cultivate, a11(1 a small farm migyiht be as valuable on an island as on a continent. W'hNrat Hiram 11inlgham didl will stand as a monument to his mnemory as long as ol0( RclRcky Hill standls sentinel over the scene of his work at Punahioti, in Honolulu, where he established a school, latcr to become O)ahul CEollege, to which Californians sent their children in the eig-hteen-forties antl 'fifties for higher education. It was at Punahou thiat MIr. fingham (leveloped llmuch of his vork and where he maintained his home, and it was there he continued, to receive the lordfly allowance front the American Board of Foreignii 242 UNDER HAW\AAIIAN SKIES Missions of from $250 to $400 a year to clothe and feed himself, wife and babies. Hfe was a benefactor to the Hawaiian Islands. His life was a series of historic deeds accomplished in the name of Christ. Mr. Bl;inghaml earnestly began to win the confidence of the high chiefs and their people, which confidence was never afterward, forfeited. He acquired a necessary knowledge of their language, ai(led in reducing it to writing, and established schools. His wife, Sybil Moseley B1inghanm, mother of Hiram Bingham II, opened the first school in Honolulu in May, 1820. It was the privilege of Hiran- Binglham to prepare the first manuscript for the first printing ever done on Hawaiian shores. In his "History of the Sandwich Islands," he says: "()n the 7th of January, 1822, a year and eight months from the time of our receiving the governmental permission to enter the field and teach the people, we commenced printing the language, in order to give them letters, libraries and the living oracles of their own tongue, that the nation might read and untlerstand the wonderful works of God." And he adds, "it was like laying the cornerstone of an important edifice for the nation." lor eighteen months thereafter he continued, as other duties would perimit, to furnish material for the printed page, to perform the duties of literary head of the miission press in Flonolutl, and to aid in the promotion of Christian eltlcation. \Vhen le landed at Honolulu, Governor Boki was in another part of the island but came to meet him two days later. Boki was then given over to pleasures, but three months later he detained Hiraim Bingham at the close of a service to make inquiries concerning the text of the sermlon, "Behold the Lamb of God Taketh Away the Sin of the World," and expressed a wish to understand the Bible. He was thereafter, for some time, given (laily instruction. Nine years later Boki cgave to his beloved teacher the land of P'zuahou, including Rocky Hill and stretching from the summit of Round Top, in the mountain range lehind, to what is now Kinog street, suppllemente(d b)v fish ponds, salt beds and coral F I RST M IS SI ( )NAR Y C RU SADIEiR S 24 2 4 3' Hlats. This gift was miade lin 1829), the year in which B'oki sailed away with two vessels to the South Seas In search of sandalwoOdl, a voyage from wvhich hie never returned, nor has his fate ever been (letermiinedl. One vessel only returned, without t'(jiding of the other. Upon the "great acres that lioki and his wife Lili1ha gave to M\,,r. flinghiam, the g-reat edlucational institutionl wvas founded. In August, 1840, Hirami B1ighanm gazed for thelast timie from the seawarl (loor of his little home on the I- 1 Ii, Lhn gu(rouinds. upon the great estate andl its school building(s, and then (leparted for America. Upon the site of the humble cottag'e todlav standls a rock- of Ptinahou in which a plate has bee~n set, bearing- this inscription O-n this Spot Stood the Home of Rev. Hiram Biniugham Who G;ave This Broadl Estate To the Cause of Christian Elducationl. Hirami B1iughiam was born at B'ennington1, '\ernmont, October 30, 1789, and was g)radluatedl from M.Ilddlehburv Cdllegce, i8id; And~over Seminary., 18191, and was ordlainedl at Goshen, Conn., Septemiber', 1819, with Asa Thurston, a month before the inissioii band sailed for H11axaii. H-e lpreatclied his first sermion ]in IHoioluin the Sunday following his arrival on April 19. He was tile first pastor of the first church ill H-onolului, calledI Kawaiahao,a larg-e thatched affair, although-l his official p)astorage (lates from 1825 to 1840. He was prominent i tile creation of a written langutagec, the translationl of the Bible and school books, and a trustedl adlviser of the king1 and chiefs ill the'ir comiplications witil foreigners. I-e retulrnedl to the States in 1841 and (diedl at New H~aven, Conn., _VNovemiber 11, 1869. Hirin 1imhan'sfirt wfewas [NII Xosele\, of Canandai(gua, N.Y., born at Westfield, MNass., Septemiber 14, 179,2. She nlarried Mr. Binoghaml October 11, 1819; she lived lli Hawaii twIenty-one years alil (hiedl at Easthanlpton, ',,\ass., February 27, 1848. illey hadl seven children, of whiom Hirami B1inghaml Ii be 244 UNDI)ER HAWAIIAN SKIES camlle best lkllown, for hle continued in mlissionary work il Hawaii and the South Seas. Hiram BIingham I married again in 1852, his second wife being Miss N. E. Morse, of New Haven. She diedl Augutst 31, 1878. Hiranm Binlgham II was born in 1831 in the frame mission house brought around the HIorn in 1820. H-iram Bingham I was much in evidence at the courts of Kamehameha II and Kamehameha II, and met all foreigners visitinig H-onolulu who were granted an audience with the king, for he was the interpreter and adviser. He frequently clashed with visitors and in some instances was told that missionary zeal, when appliel too earnestly to governmental a(ministration, was all error. ('C(lnlo(lore Downes, commanding the U. S. frigate Potomac, ihal a sllarl) discussion in Honolulu in 1832 with H'iram Bingham an(l severely criticized the latter. Mr. BIingham, however, livedI in a tryingl period in Honolulu's history, and missionary zeal and stea(lfastness in strict living were the mlain weapons lie wielded to stem the tide of (lelauchery which flooded Hawaii from visitillg whale and trade ships. RIeplete as were the closely written journals of the first missionaries with details of their voyage froin New England to Hawaii, of their )rayers, te gales an the calls, the sighting of whalles alll porpoises, and, finally, the great burning mountain of Alauna Loa, on the island of IHawaii, that memorable morningl of March 30, 1820, of the first glimpse they had of the nlatives, the visits of the great chief Kalanimoku, one of Kamelhamleha the (Great's powerful supporters anld gelerals, the cstal)lisllent of the Christian mission at Kailua and Honolulu, few of the missionaries ever mention the fact that there were chllilren aboard the Tliaddclts, and that a child became one of tlhe (lecidling factors in the permission which Liholiho gave to the mlissionaries to land and teach. There were five little children in the family of Daniel Chamlerlain, farmer, of Brookfield, Mass., who had thrown in his lot witl the ordained ministers. alnd with his wife and family FIRST MISSI()NARY CRUSADERS 245 sailed to Hawaii to instruct tlhe natives il civilized methods of agriculture. However, the Hfawaiians lhad already learned mluch of these modern ways, for Don Francisco de I'aula y Marin, the Spaniard, ha(l lived in the Islands alout a quarter of a century and had introduced many varieties of foreign plants, vegetables and trees. The Hawaiians looked upon the fair, white children with deep interest. They were the first white children they had ever seen. lWhen the chief Ialanimoku went aboard the brig to sail from Kawailhae to Kailua, the clief's wife and two of the widowed queens of Kamehamehla I were even mnore interested in the Chamberlain children, and particularly Nancy, a tiny tot, than in the new patclwork which Mrs. Thurston and Mrs. Binghaml prepared for the Hawaiian women to sew, their first handiwork with needle andl thread. UIpon the deck of the 7'haddclis where stood Kalanimoku, dressed, as Daniel Chalmberlail records, as a gentleman in the American fashion, and bearing himself majestically and graciously, and also the queens and womelln of high rank of Hawaii, there prolalbly entered the tholughts which later had weight with tle king in his decision to permit the missionaries to land. There was l)robablly a stiggestion to the king from some of Ilis own people, or possibly fromn somle of the white mlen already living on the Islands and oIp)posed to the missionaries coming among them, that the missionaries intendled robblling them of their lanlls. "If the strangers are come to rob us, why did they bring their womenl and children?" queriedl one hi.gh chief. "To rob would mean they mllight be killed. They would not, then, have brought their -wolllen andl children." The suggestion was a powerful factor in the decision which followed, and was probably due to the straiige liking which the kilng queens and chiefs manifested for Nancy, the two-year-old child of the Clhamberlains. Thev fondled it, when they were pIermitted ashore, and a queen asked Mrs. Clhamberlain to give lier the child. 246 24() UNDER FIANVAIJAN SKIE'S To refuse might sacrifice the very object of the mission andI cause all to be turnedl lback from the Islandls. To g-ive assent mecant the p)arting from her (lear morsel of clhildhoodl, yiel(ling it to womien who had not the knowledg(e for lbrmnimg up children that the, mission xvomen believed they shou(11d possess, and xvouldI also mean that the child would be taken from undler their tender parental lprotection and love into the thatched andl (lark huts of the Hawaiian Ipeople. Well, no one offered a solution. Mrs. Chamiberlain remiained silent. They finially permitted the queens to tak,7e the, child for two (lays. Mrs. Chamberlain, agyonized, but fortifiedl bv her Christian spirit, prayed an(l praye(l. Then returnedl the queens with the tiny white burden and depositedI it with the mnother, at thie same time presenting the missionaries with f ood. F"or mionthls the missionaries partook, in par1t, of the food broughit as a htookupu'" (gift) to Nancy. Ever afterwards the iTtawaiianis treated the missionaries wvith kindness and considleration, the kingo and chiefs giving them full protection, even interposing between many white men living Onl the IslandIs in their efforts to cause ihe missionaries to (lepart. (ihambierlailn (iscoveredl that while there wvas fertile soil anld thousands of acres of land to till, modern a- ricultural m1ethods1, did not take ho01( quickly with tihe people, andl his efforts, in a mecasuire, wvere in vain. The people wvere intent upon learningr the a, b, c's of the white strangers;listeningy to the words of w"isdomu fron] the Bible, tile 0d(1( phraseology of the Old Testament and~ the Scriptures strangely paralelling many in thle la-ngurtage e-nlploved by the king, chiiefs, lpriests andl lar(ls. This lbeintg so, the wvor(1s, the texts, thle stories (lescribedl, fell upon fertile llili(ds and( were easily (llnderstoo(1. Daniel Chamberlain's instrulctiols ill agTriculture were not. The ilawaiian Ilatioll was passing- through tile strangest era il its hlistory, Fan era which spelled (llrest and~ unlcertainty; thle era wihen ulel and~ women were, still wond~erinlg at the si(lIlden (lestructionl of tile ido01s and~ templlles, al(l tile breaking (lown of the foriilidable tabus. The astonisllinlg rapidity w~dith wilici thle re ueen Kammamll. u, o 1so)rt of Klalaelol l, fromtl a pi'ttll l / l/ during hler visit t1 londoni 182l /4. Blmi the king Ai/md tlre queenl died i thie Brnitish capiti aellld tleir bodiens wetre rtumrle(dI tno nwlii nDi inn 1825 o tine ftlrinte Jllftoe 11e eminln11Nil (f d iptt Iomd Byrn. R. N. 24S UNDER t? HAWAIIAN SKIES ligious fabric was torn to shreds just when the missionaries sailed from Boston for a land all unknown to them, caused the Hfawaiians to wonder at their freedom from cruel punishments for what were previously violations of the tabus. They permitte(l their own lands to overgrow with weeds. There were white men, also a negro, in the Islanlds to whom I)aniel Chamberlain refers as having gardens in which they raised s(quashes anll other vegetables, but as to real farming there was little. le does refer to what he terms the finest her(ls of cattle he had ever seen, and some exceptionally fine and gentle horses. They were the descendants of the cattle Vancouver had left with Kamehameha, and the horses brought from California in 1803 by Captain Cleveland. The wlole nation had suddenly gone to school. The entire race became school children. The king ordered it. Little D)aniel C hamberlain, only six years old, bright and intelligentt, who had received special instruction on the Thaddctns from Mr. Thurston, seemed a prodigy of intellect to the Hawaiians. The chief, KIalanimoku, a hardened fighter, and brother of (Otueen Kaahulmanu, widow of Kamehameha I, became a conmpanion of the little boy, and asked that he be his teacher. Then this strange pair, a white child, scarcely seven years of age, and the scarred, fighlting general, who had led armies in savage battles, p)ored over books which little I)aniel produced for lessons, an(l the warrior, at whose beck and call thousands of armed men had respon(edl, patiently learned his a, b, c's, from the child. IKamehanelha I II likewise received instruction. Clhanmberlain left for America in 1823 and never returned. passing, to his reward in 1883. It was not until about 1833, when the Islands had become Christianized, that American farming methods began to make headway. In his journal, Chamberlain describes the harbor of Honolulu at tlhat time as safe as any country in the world could offer, although somnewhat (lifficult to enter. There was a strong fort, as he stated, at the entrance to the harbor, fortified with about thirty cannon, some of them 32-pounders. Chaml)erlain FIRST MISSIONARY CRUSAD)ERS 24 249 refers to Mfarinii, the Spaniard (called MVanini by the Hawaiians) as living a few rods from his own honse, who had a fine- vineyard and madle excellent wine. His melons were superior to those of America. There was a black man named Allen at Honolulu, wvho llal lived there about ten yvears and had become a man of lproperty through his Vinltstry Hie was remarkably kind to the missionaries,9 supplylilg them with meat, or somiething- to eat, every (lay since their arrival. Meanwhile, Messrs. Rtiggles and Whitney. at the recqnest of the king, had oyone to Kauiai, with George Kaumuitalii, and established a m-ission branch there, the king of Kauai affectionately greeting his son, whomi hie ilad not seen for years. About this time tile son was regyarledi by the missionarnes as a "backslider." The Kauai ruler had manifested ilucil interest in tile 1lew religion a nd h a dassisted the ilissionaries, suipplyingx them regularly with foodl. H1e wanted Whiitniev to remain behind wilel Rugi"-es and ile (lecidied to return to Holloluin. (hamiberiain, ill his journall, disconrses on the mianner in whliclh tile ilissionaries arrived alld tile kindness with which tiley wet c received. "How different froni whlat we expected," hle recorded. 'Iilstead of beingf snrroundedl wvith, aild inlsultedl by outcasts fromt IBotany Bay, and lawvless savag-es, God ilas shut their mouths aild raisel uip many kBind f riends so tilat we can truly say the -Lord hielped uis. We were ofteni toldl in America that tile natives woull lbutciler us as soon as we landed Ilere,, but as yet we see nothinlg of tilis. I slhouldl not be afraid to seild Daniel to ainy part of tile islaild aloile. I feel there is nluch1 (laiger of forgetting to acknowledge God wilile wve sit ill tile suinshiine of prosperity and have so little to try us." At tile close of tile Chambherlain jourilal, the author refers to Fan illcidlelt wilicil eacil missionary ilentions indefinitely but nlever give's full (letails. T't lS xa tile backsliding of sonle of tileir own wilite peoplie who arrive(1 in tile Tliaddcus. Ilie refers to the dlesertion of the phlysician aild ilis wife from tile mission, for a phiysician was absolutely neeledl for tile care of tileir health. I I 250 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES "I doubt not Brother Whitney was faithful in admonishing the doctor and his wife to desist from their rash, and I may say, wicked design. I had hoped that I should not be under the painful necessity of recording in this little journal the faults of a brother of this little church. To say the least of it, the conduct of the doctor and his wife has caused the hearts of some to bleed already. I leave the subject to some abler pen; my friends will sooner or later be favored with the particulars." He also refers to the first excommunication in Honolulu. It was a letter of excommunication delivered to Tennoe, one of the Hawaiian youths who had returned to Hawaii on the Thaddeus. He was a source of anxiety on the voyage; he became a backslider on reaching Honolulu, and pleadings were unavailing. The letter finally had to be sent, with deep regret. This was in 1821. Mr. Chamberlain was taken very ill and it became necessary to send him back to America. Mrs. Chamberlain was a remarkable woman in the work she was permitted to do, and probably would have ma(le a lasting impression had she remained in Hawaii. She cherished the memory of the mission to the end of her ninety-two years. It is related in the journal of the Chamberlains, of the arrival of the Thaddeus off the coast of Hawaii, that the first scene off Kawaihae which greeted the missionary band was a bevy of nude Hawaiians, men and women, swimming with savage curiosity about the little ship. The New England probity of conduct rose to the surface. Terror-stricken, the white women fled to the hold of the vessel. It was probably due to the rare intellect of Mrs. Chamberlain, her Christian faith and firmness, her good health and few intervals, if any, of discouragement, and her good counsel, that the mission remained in Hawaii, for there were depressing moments during the first year when it was thought it might have to be abandoned. Of the five children of the Chamberlains, Daniel, the youthful teacher, died in Auburndale, MIass., in 1884. He was associated FIRST MISSIONARY CRUSADERS 251 with his brother Nathan in business in Boston. In 1845 Dexter built the first machine for planing iron made in the United States, and shipped it to Worcester, Mass. lie was one of the pioneers in organizing the Republican party. He labored in the Free Soil Republican campaigns of 1848, 1856 and 1860. The name American Republican was always (lear to himi as the most patriotic title the party could have. He was instrumlental in having the city of Boston purchase its first steam fire engine. Lack of a written or printed language left an incomplete record of the preparations of the Hawaiian people to meet the God of the white race. The exact facts as to how the Hawaiians thelmselves became responsive to acceptance of the Cross of the Nazarite in place of idols of wood and stone and sacrificial altars that sometimes ran with blood of sacrifice, have never been recorded. Hawaiians themselves urged devout New Englanders to send. the Christian God to Hawaii. Ka-mehamelha had listened to Vancouver's promise to send missionaries from London to tell the story of the foreign God. When the Hawaiians perceived the first band of missionaries appear off the shores of Hawaii some of the chiefs who renlembered( Vancouver's promise wondered whether the navigator at last had caused religious emissaries to come to them to impart this knowledge. The prayer book had already been in Hawaii. Many Englishmen were amnong those in attendance at Kanmeharmeha's court, as advisers at his conferences and at nmeetings between chiefs and traders; as military experts in the introduction of firearms, wlich were soon to render the old-time spears valueless; as progenitors of men and women who were later to play more or less proliinent parts il the history of the kingdom. John Young's personal manuscript, kept religiously while he remained in Hawaii, is lil)erally inscribed with verses from the Scriptures and from the Book of Colmmon Prayer. He was the closest of the white mlen to the person and affairs of the Con(queror. The chiefs attached to Kaehahanmea were men of achievements in arms and administration. They had frequent contact with the white men, alnd were visitors aboard their ships. 2 15' 252 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES Uf hig-h birth, feudal lordls who yielded fealty to an absolute monarch, their thoughts were miouldlel to whatever the needs reqluiredl for the defense of the kingdom and k-eeping, invaders fromt their shores. They were men with whomi Kameham-neha trnstedl eveti the future of his monarchy. Somne had grown up with IEanmehameha from boyhoodl; others had taught him the airts of war. Along all the men who were at his side in hattlc> andl in his efforts to solidlify the islands into a single governlment, two,were (lestined to b-e Imemorialized upon the Ilawaijan coalof-armis-the warrior princes who dlevoted their lives to preparillnn youNi0. ' Kamnehaniela to be oieat amnong his people. it was, quite natural for some of the missionaries of the earlyClhristian ]invasion of Hawaii to record their daily (oings and commenlclts in journals, later to be enlarged upon and appear- in book form. They were often mien of the "fire and brimstone' type, (levout and zealous Christian advocates, whose lofty ideal was that they xvere sent into a heathen land and their dtty w,-as p)rincipadly to convert the people to Christianity. Zealous daily lives. orderedl almost hour by hour accordin1 to the Scriptures. inia(e them somewhat intolerant of religiouts and moral beliefs thlat wN:ere not in accordl with their own. Some chroniclers, apJparelltly forgot that they were dealiug with a people who hal displayedI ulnusual moral courage by overthrowing their owii gods, burninig their temples, (lestroyingi the tabu and the ancient feudal powver of the priesthood, kings and chiefs over the comlmon people. To some of the missionaries the Ilawaiiauis, because they were not clothedl like the New En'glanders, were savages. Because they straye(d away now and thene from Christian beliefs imperfectly tauglht them, they were excommiiiunicated. Even the missionaries record in their journals that they did not fully understand(I the I-Taxvaiian language, and failed to convey the inner and (leeper meaning of phrases of the Bible; and when the niatives shook their heads lbecauise the key-word hadl been omiittedl. soame chose to smite the i-Tawaiian character with blasts of fire andI brimistone. FIRST MISSI(O)NA\RY CRUSADIIRS 253 There were unfortunate li:;talkes on 1)oth sides attrilutal)le to zeal. The -awaiians madle theirs, the missionaries theirs. In reports to Boston tle missionaries may oftel have enlargedl 1ul)po the faults of the Hawaiian pieople an(l in the clear, ice-like intellectual lang^uage with which most of them were gifted, exagerate- l theim from mole-llills into mountains. Some Flawaiialln fell from the righteous paths of living into the easier ones and remained apart from missionary teaching's. Too often somle of this class were taken too seriously by the susceptile I awaiian race, and tlhe in turn, for little or no real reason, turnel(l deaf ears to Christian plea(ling's because of a few )acksliders. As the Htawaiilan lagnulage w\as dleelopel ilto a written alnd lprinte(l one, the nlissiollaries became nore conversant with Hawaiian Slpeech and its figurative exIressiolIs, ani the Hlawaiials witlh Enolislh. T'7he two races beg'an to undlerstalnd each other better. an(l eventually the whole nation marched under the Christian banner within a surl)risingly short time. -But all this would not have been accomplishe(d u)t for a 1n111 -ler of lHawaiian men and wAomen of high chiefly rank, whlo, with their idols and templ)les (lestroyed, blecamle recel)tive to the teaching's of Christ. The T-awaiians as a race were deel)ly religious. an(l after the (leath of Kameliamehla I and the (lestruction of their ancient religion were imnue(liately at a loss for a sulstitute. Thlere was nothing to replace it except what might come to them frolm beyon(l the seas. HIad( it not been for the influence of the great chiefs and chiefesses the efforts of the missionaries mlight have failed in the first year of their residence in Hawaii. It w:'s an experiment. However, the old feudal system was so perfect anld powerful in its (liscil)line that the Hawaiians were accustomie(l to leinl' ordered to (lo this or that, and whlen the chiefs seit oult wor(l for the people to listen to the new religion, they listened intently. Some missionaries were too eager in their intro(luction of Christianity, and failed to understand that the natives were regar(ling their work an(l their religion as an experiment. It was not altogether a settle(l fact as the missionaries seemedl to 254 UN2DEJR HA\VAIIAN SKIES feel and to report, hence they expressed intolerance of the Hawaiians' custoims and habits. In the end the missionaries and the Hawaiians were equally justified in having- struck hard hammer blows to drive the new religion into Hawaii. Within ten years, through the efforts of the chiefs, the H-awaiian nation had been transformed from idol worshippers to Christian followers. Tle greatest of the Hawaiian chiefesses assisting in the change froml barbarism to Christianity was Kaahumanu, the haughty queen and Ami:azon who accolmpanied the mighty Kamehameha into battle. She was his real sweetheart, his favorite queen. She lossessed a strong character. In childhood and in womanhood she had never been curbled. Hiers was a dominant will, but tempered with consideration. Her life through the wars made her the severe woman when it came to meting out punishment to offenders. She was kind to the just, severe to those whom she felt were at fault. She was the daughter of a king of Maui and was born near Hana, Maui, a tiny, rugged port on the northern slope of H'aleakala, the vast extinct crater. When Kaallumanu first met the missionaries it was with a cold and haughlty reserve, and if she had to take their extended hands she gave them the tips of her fingers-usulally her little fingera protest against accepting closer relations. Camle the rebellion on Kauai, waged by George Kaumualii (F-umehutme), who had returned on the Thaddeus from New Englalnd with the first missionaries, and with whom they hatd many trials, but who really instilled in them the need of establishing a mission on Kauai, where his father ruled as the last king of a conquered race. Having been in foreign lands for several years observing the methods of government, Kaumualii desired to establish such a form of government on his own island, hence his rebellion again:t the authority of Liholiho (Kamehaineha II). It was a bloody war, but brief, and fatal to Katumualii, whose armies were broken and scattered. As regent, Kaahumanu ruled the Islands with Liholiho, having been given authority as guardian or co-ruler with Kamella FIRST MISSIONARY CRUSADERS 255 meha II. A few months after the death of Kamehameha I she gave the young king no peace until he annulled the religion of his fathers by publicly eating with his queens. Strange to relate, however, Kaahumanu, although one who participated in the destruction of the old religion, did not become a convert to Christianity until 1825. After her conversion she became as warm in her affections toward the missionaries as she was cold and contemptuous previously, says Rev. Sheldon Dibble, the missionary-author. To mark this conversion a tablet was placed in Kawaiahao church, Honolulu, giving the details and a brief biography, she being then called Elizabeth Kaahumanu. One of the first intimations of a chalnge of disposition in Kaahumanlu, he wrote, was contained in a letter she wrote while on Kauai during the Kaumualii rebellion, in which she expressed a strong desire for the reformation of her people and for their eternal salvation. For six months previous to the sailing of Kamehameha II lad his suite for England (late in 1823), a gradual advance. had been made by the chiefs as a body in correcting the morals of the people and in leading them to attend schools and to the oral instruction of the missionaries. Kanlehameha II advised the chiefs to attend these instructions during his absence. Many of the chiefs had taken advantage of his advice, at least those who were seriously disposed, such as Kalanimoku, Kaumualii, Pila and many others. Proclamations had been issued to the different islands enjoining the people to observe the Sabbath, and encouraging the people to learn to read. Some houses of worship, also schoolhouses, had been erected by the order of the chiefs. In April, a month before the Kauai war, the principal chiefs had called a meeting of the people of Oahu to proclaim in a formal manner their unitel resolution to receive instruction themselves, to observe the Sabbath, worship God, obey His law, and promote knowledge among the people. Kaahumanu, it seems, concurred in this resolution, althouTgh nothing was observed in her deportment giving evi(lence of a change until several months afterward. In the meantime progress 256 UNDER HA\WAIIAN SKIES had been made il printing and in preparing a class of young persons who might be able to assemble schools and teach reading. In the famous letter of Kaahumnanu accepting the Christian faith, expressing her great love for her people, she proposed to make a tour of all the Islands in person to exhort her subjects to turn to God. On her arrival at Honolulu her zeal was unal)ated, is Dibble's comment. She attended the women's prayer meeting andl expressed her feelings with earnestness and with tears. The sentiment of her heart from the first and through the remainder of her life was, "Lord, what wilt thou have me (1o?" Then she gave her strict attention to the direction of the government, and with zeal visited each island and almost every village, encouraging the people to take up the new religion, atten(l schools, and improve the public works. To the missionaries, to Christianity itself, the conversion of Kaahlulianu, of which tlere had been marked evidence early in 1825, was an important milestone in the history of the mission. 11er conversion tore away the veil of hindrance. The peop.e quickly followed her exa.imple. I-Ter strong will, her commnand — ing presence, the fact that she had been the favorite queen of Kamehameha I, the additional fact that she had followed the armies in Kcamehamehla's campaigns, and had personal prowess, colmmendle(l her action to the people, and at last the work of the missionaries began to be accompllished over more or less smooth 1)aths, withl the rocks of official opposition removed. The missionaries were not loath to give credit to Kaahumanu for having acconpl)lishe(l soilmethilng that would have taken theim years to overconme. In lawaiahao church, HFonolulu, erected in 1841 on the spot where tle first Christian sernion was l)reached in 1820, is a b1eautiful marlle tablet placel by the missionary descendants to colmmemlorate her great work of assisting in the conversion of the flawaiian race to Christianity. FIRST MISSIONARY CRUSADERS 257 Kamamalu, the consort of Liholiho (Kamehameha II), who was also his half-sister (one of the strange characteristics of the intermarriage of members of the royal and chiefly families to preserve the line of descent), was among the first to greet the missionaries. She was gracious to the women of the pioneer band and undertook their guidance in acquainting them with the ccustoms of the court. Kaumualii, governor of Kauai and once its king, embraced Christianity and aided in the establishment of the station on his island, being assisted in this work by his son George. It was a strange fatality that it should fall to his lot to give )hysical assistance and guildance to the missionaries in carryingl the Gospel to Kauai, and that later he should become passive in accepting Christianity. Governor Kaulmualii spoke a little Engllish. His accel)tance of Christianity was intense. The story is told of him that he would swim the Wailua river holdingl his Bilble in one hand and studying it as he stroked the water with the other. Hoapili (Ulumahiehie), son of Kameeiamoku by KIealiiukahekili, was a cousin of Kaahunanlu. He was a firm supporter of the Christian religion. He was the father of Liliha, the beautiful chiefess who gave a vast acreage of lands in H-onolulu to the missionaries to be (!evote(l to the cause of education. Ierhusband, the chief Boki, was insistent in tlis presentation, although it was llis wife's land and hers to give, not his. However, it was given and accepted, and l)laced in the keepillg of Rev. Hiram BPingham, the title, however, being vested in the Amlerican Board of Missions which lie represented, and by that board transferred to Punahou Academy, founded in the early eighteen-forties, becoming the first educational institution of its kind west of the Missouri river. No monument has vet been erected to the memory of Liiliha, or Boki, for the great impetus which they, as full-blooded Hawaiians, who had emerged from the shattered religion of the Hawaiians, gave to the new religion and the cause of education. Within Punahou's land such a monument, or a tablet, placed upon the historic andl possibly legendary stone "I'ohaku," 258 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES would be appropriate, for theirs was a gift that might be likened to that of Kaahumanu-her conversion to Christianity. Hoapili's second wife was Kalakua Kaheiheimalie, one of Kamehlameha I's widows. To them came the honor of being the first Hawaiian couple to be married by the missionaries, being united in marriage by Rev. W. Richards, on October 19, 1823. They afterwards called themselves Hoapilikane and Hoapiliwahine, or the Hawaiian equivalent of Mr. and Mrs. Hoapili. The chief Hoapili was a noted astrologer. Quleen Kinau (Kaahumanu II), who became premier (kuhina nui) upon the death of Kaahumanu, was not only active in the affairs of the government, but, like her mother, Kalakua Kaheiheimalie, was a zealous supporter of the Christian faith. It was Kalanimoku, the great general and trusted lieutenant of Kamrehameha I, and a brother of Kaahumanu I, who first met the missionaries aboard the Thaddeus in April, 1820, and sailed with them to Kailua to confer with the new king. He was responsiblle in no small degree for the King's favorable decision to permit the missionaries to land. Kalanimoku embraced Christianity and became a pupil of little Daniel Chamberlain, the seven-year-old son of Daniel Chamberlain, the missionary. It fell to Kalanimoku andl Hoapili, the latter as governor of Maui, in 1823, to put down the Kaumualii rebellion on Kauai. Kalainimoku was hard lpressed by the rebels when word reached Oahu of the state of affairs. As soon as he was notified, Hoapili crossed from Maui to Oahu with ships and soldiers, reinforced his command in Honolulu, and sailed for Kauai. The first effects of Christianity and education were felt at this time, for in conferring with Rev. Mr. Richards, through David Malo, a native teacher destined to become one of Hawaii's foremost historians, Hoapili learned that war could and should be conducted in a humane manner. A quarter of a century before the arrival of the missionaries war was butchery, prisoners being slaughtered at will. Richards gave advice and instructions as to a humane method of conducting war, if war must come: that no persons except those evidently opposing and in arms should be FIRST MIISSI()NARY CRUISADERS 259 attacked; that the weak and defenseless, such as aged persons, women and children, ought by no means to be molested; and that quarter should be given enemies when asked, and captives treated with mercy. Hoapili led the g'overnment's armies in person, and required the older Kalanimoku to remain with the reserves, and to protect the women and children. When Hoapili's armies were ready to attack, the leader, who had spent the night in a lonely vigil watching and trying to read the stars, asked that a prayer be offered "to the true God." A Society Islander, found serving in the ranks, was able to pray in the Christian way. The missionaries' efforts had already fallen on fruitful ground. Htoapili called upon the armlies to stand steadily in the face of the rebel foe, as there was no retreat. God, he said, was on his side and the side of his soldiers; and as God was on the side of the Israelites, so le would ai(l I-is children of Hawaii. Unfortunately, after the Kauiaians ha( been routed, H1oapili was unalle to fully control the soldiers, and many excesses, following the ancient method, were committed. George Kaumualii was sent to Honolulu, where he remained in honorable captivity until his death, which happelned not long after. Kamehameha II decided to visit Eingland. This thought lhad been in his mind for three years. Since the arrival of the missionaries, he felt he should go to EnFland and there give expression of his fealty to King George. The idea prevailed, since the visits of Vancouver, that the Hawaiians were subject to Kincg George. It is quite likely that, owing to the lifference in understanding one another, Vancouver had committed to paper an idea which he endeavored to make Kamehameha acquainted with; and Kamehameha, unable to read at all, and possibly having then (1794) no interpreters capable of conveying the sulbtleties of his own language, a cession of the island of Hawaii was signed by Kamehameha. But in the light of history Kamehameha probably never intended to yield up his sovereignty, almost at the moment he was about to crush the last opposition in the Islands. Hligh Ch(ief ]oki and hiis wife, High Chiefess Lfliha. hoki was the brothei of' h Ke aiehi I'h chiefmilister. He also ne iompaiiied Kamnhiomhhta II to London in 1824. He was lost in the South Seats during g sal. wood expedition. Liliha gea i riich lai d to thei ission:ries for oediacati oil. nIrptse' tatihit College 0stadl Ithereon i FIRST MISSIONARY CRUSADERS 21 261 It is said, also, that Kamehameha 11 (lesired to visit the United States, but if so, the intention was never carried out. Beside a natural desire to see foreign lands, he wvas (lesirous, according to th~e historian jarves, of conferring with foreign governments and enteringf into formal oftficial relations with them. In October, 1823, a council was held at Lahaina, in which. after a full (uscuissioni, it was (lecided that he slloulld embark in tile English ship L'Ailc~fl, Captain Starbuck. Kamamiali, ihis favorite wife, tile cilief Poki and his wife ILiliha, Kapihe, known as tile adm-iiral, and Kekuianaoa, who afterwards became the governior of Oahu, all(l several attendants, were to accompany him. It was the wisil of the kingy anld chiefs that Mr. Ellis, tle- Englis i missionary who had been assis,:,tingT tile American missionaries, hecause of his wvile acqllailltallce witil the Hiawaiianl lalnguiage alld cuistom-s, should go with ihim to act as illterpreter and~ counsellor, iltt upoin Captaill Starhuck allegingy illahility to lprovide accommlodatiolls for his family, he was compelled to remain. Kauikeaotuli, tile younger lbrotller of Kamehamella lT, was appoinitedl,successor to the tllroile ill case tile kinog never returnedl, and was also made hleir to Ilis private lanl(1. lihe governilent was to lbe administered by tile clliefs ill council, tile reg-eicy beingy invested ill Kaalluimantu, withl Kalanimoku as prini~e ulinister. November 18th, the royal traill went onl board tile L'ligl-c, anld ullder a salute f rool all sihipping anld batteries, sailedl ill collpaly witll tell other vessels for Oahu. Ol tile 27thl the L'ligi left HonoItlulu, amid tile sad forebodings of tile people. Kamamaln remlailled on sihore to tile last, minlgling her tears wvitlh those of her attelldallts, to whom Iler amlialbility aild atteiltion to domlestic concerns had greatly elldearedl ier. Before steppinig into the smiall boat, says Jarves, after tile manner of her forefatllers, sile tilts cilanted iler farewell "0O! Ileavels; 0 I eartll; 0! iloultains; 0 sea; (7)! m~y couinsellors and my subjects, farewell. 0! tilot lalld for whicil my farther suiffered, tile object of toil wilicil my father sought. We now leave thy soil; I follow tily collmalld; I will never disregard thy voice; I xviii walk by tile coililaild wilicil thou hast given 262 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES me." Salutes were fired, and the ship soon disappeared before a favorable breeze. While preparations were being made, Rives, a Frenchman, endeavored to persuade his royal master to permit him to join his train. The king refused, according to Jarves and other historians; and according to records on file in the Archives of Hawaii, describing Rives' later acts, the sovereign did not wish to disgrace his retinue by employing him. Rives, however, managed to secrete himself on board, and after the vessel was on her way, baggageless as he was, contrived to secure permission to remain. Boki, though of inferior talents to his distinguished brother, Kalaninoku, was as good a specimen of the chiefs, as Kanamaalu of the beauties of her native islands. She was then twenty-six years of age. It is of historical record that when Kamehameha II departed he gave explicit orders to his chiefs and subjects to listen to the instructions of the missionaries, and educate themselves during his absence. The subjects chose to take those words to heart and they applied themselves diligently to acquiring the knowledlge which the white men would impart. Alas, the king and queen (lid not live to learn of their progress. The rulers returned to HIawaii in caskets. Digressing, for the sake of historical continuity, and referring again to the men and women of Hawaii who built a foundation for the Christian effort being buein ilded by the missionaries, it may be said that Sheldon Dibble, while exceptionally critical of the TIawaiians at times and inclined to judge them always by his own standards rather than by their own, does not fail to yield full praise. Among the men he mentions was John Ii, who learned quickly, and later became a power in the government, even to )ecoming a judge in the supreme court, and serving on various commissions. The first individual baptized under American missionary supervision was Keopuolani, the sacred chiefess, and the friend and patron of the missionaries at Lahaina. She was the mother of the king and the prospective king. On her dying couch she re FIRST MISSIONARY CRUSADERS 263 quested baptism, which was not withheld. It is claimed that during the visit of Admiral de Freycinet, a French commander, in 1819, the abbe aboard administered baptism to two high chiefs, but it is said by historians that the recipients probably viewed the ceremony as the application of honors such as are accorded by one nation to the dignitaries of another. Sir George Simpson, governor-in-chief of the Hudson Bay Company's territories, which included a branch in Honolulu, and who visited Honolulu in 1841, stated that the Hawaiians played a very important part in the establishment of Christianity in Hawaii. The missionaries found on their arrival that under Providence the mere contact of an imperfect civilization of premissionary days had decided the contest in favor of the Bible men, while it had undoubtedly facilitated the remainder of their task by leading the aborigines, according to the general principles of human nature, to consider Christianity as an important element in the envied superiority of the strangers. As a curious contrast to this situation, the missionaries brought with them from Boston positive instructions never to countenance the maxim that civilization should precede Christianity. But the force of circumstances was more than a match for theories. It was not Christianity, but civilization, that caused uninstructed women to wear something more than the scanty pa-u (tapa skirt); it was not Christianity, but civilization, that caused unconverted men to rest on the seventh day of the week. The missionaries experienced something more than negative encouragement. They were met, in fact, by ready-made evidence of a disposition in high places to regard the religion of the foreigners with favor. This attitude lessened the difficulties which they expected to experience, but they had many others to overcome by bitter experiences. Their blows against the social and domestic relations of the Hawaiians almost raised a barrier against them, but as time passed the reforms so established became ingrained and accepted as a matter of fact. The missionaries worked upon fertile minds. For generations, for centuries, the Hawaiians, without the printed word to assist 264 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES them in preservilng records of history, genealogies, the intricate rules of the feudal government, and the tabus and tenets of their religion, had to (lepend entirely upon their memories. Their minds were the libraries of the Hawaiian nation. Genealogies, intricate as they were, could be told by most of the chiefly families with ease. It is practically so today. State the name of a person, and mention that of his or her father or mother, and ilnmeliately a H'awaiian, versed in history, will verbally trace back the ancestry through many generations, sometimes almost back to the time when Juan Gaetano, the Spanish explorer, visited Hawaii. Christians the world over owe a tribute to the able and powerful chiefs and chiefesses of the Kamehameha era in the early Christianizing of the Hawaiian Islands. In the cause of education. and as an example of moral force, the incident of the defiance of the dread goddess Pele, goddess of all volcanoes, who dwelt in the living crater of Kilauea, on the island of Hawaii, is probably one of the greatest acts of moral courage ever perforned. Klapiolani, daughter of the great chief Keawe-mauhili, was one of the noblest characters of her time. Her husband, Naihe. was called the national orator. Kapiolani lived through tle feudal and tabu periods, and after the missionaries came, she became a Christian and an exanlple to all her countrywomen by her virtues and refinement. In December, 1824, she determined to break the spell of the belief in Pele, whom the Hawaiians feared. In spite of strenuous opposition by her friends she made.a journey of 150 miles, mostly on foot, from Kealakekua Bay to H-ilo, visiting the crater on the way, in order to defy the wrath,of Pele and to prove that no such thing existed. On approaching tlhe volcano she met the priestess of PIele who warned her not to go near the crater, and predicted her death if she violated the tabus of the goddess. "Who are you?" demande d Kapiolani. "One in whom the goddess dwells," she replied. In answer to.a pretended letter from Pele, Kapiolani quoted passages from tlle Scriptures, setting forth the character and power of the true Fl RST MISSI(ONARY CRUSADERS 25 265 God, until the p~riestess was silelcedl, and confessed that k11e akuia, the (leity, had left her. IKapiolani then went forward to the crater. A hnt was bnilt for her on the brinik of the pit in which she spent the night. The next m-orningY she and her compan~y of abouit eighty personls (lescen(ledl to the black ledge, a (listance of about five hundred feet. There, in full view of the grandi and terrific aection of the inner crater, she ate tile berries consecrated to Pele, and threw stones intto tile burninlg lake, sayinlg: "Jehovahl is my God. Ilie kindled these fires. 1 fear not Pele. -If I perish Iin her anger, tilel you may fear Pele but if I trust in Tehovail, tilen von Ilust fear and serve Him alone. "They then united in singoing- a ihymn of 1)raise to tile truie G~ol, and knelt ill adoration to tile Creator and Governor of tile TIiliverse. In lDecemiber, 1924, on the lluldredltl alluiversary of this incidleilt, tile whlole performanice wvas stagedl at the crater as a pag~eant to honor tilis wonmal, a former pagan, wilose ellllrachig of Cllristianity led Iler to enlact a scenie tilat is alilost withlout lparallel. Anld vet, in tilis day I-Iawaiialls still have a superstitious diread of Pele aild speak of iler in low tones. In May, 1924, Pele was suddenly aroused anmd, stokillg Ier cauldrons, caused a part of tile low-lyingo land~s of Puna, near Hulo, to settle several feet, witil yawnling cracks appearing here andl tilere ill tile roadways aild ill cane aldI taro land~s., anld teiel stldldelly tilere came explosiolls in tile pit of Kilauea, aild gTreat masses of (lense clotlds rose miles Ii tile air, followed by qnaklno-s of tile earth, while hug-e boulders were thrown iligh and far away, avalanciles of llluil aild sand~ wvere tllrowu for ililes, tile (lust aldi sandl falling into the village of Waiohinu'l, twenity miles (listant. The Hawaii National Park, ill wilich Kilauea is located, was closed oil M-ay 19, 1924, by order of Tlhonlas Boles, tile park superintendent, as rocks were falling onl the Volcano House, tile Ilotel locatedl several miiles away, aild the mi-ilitary campl ilear by was abaildoiled. This is tile first time in nmore tilai a lhuildredl years tilat such a plhenomenoil ias been observed at Kilauea. 266 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES In April, 1926, an eruption of Mauna Loa occurred, a lava stream coursing down the mountain, completely destroying the coast town of Hoopuloa and filling the ancient harbor. CHAPTER XIV PICTURE ROCKS TO PRINTED PAGES PRINTING PRESS BECOMES HISTORIC ARDS there were in ancient Hawaii as well as professional orators, just as the tribe of bards and orators is a conspicuous element among( the Hawaiians of today, but in ancient times these geniuses held office as a hereditary privilege. There was no actual, tangible literature in the Hawaiian language, written or printed, before the advent of the first band of American missionaries, in the year 1820. The professional orators in those alphabetless days were engaged to plead cases, and in all national negotiations and conferences their counsel was sought. The latter, some of whom were blind men, were the repositories of the historical and sacred songs. The sole occupatiofi of these bards, says the venerable Rev. Henry H. Parker, for sixty years the pastor of the famous Kawaiahao Church, was the preservation of these songs (meles), for which purpose they repeated them by rote from an early age until they were indelibly fixed in their memories. The language was extremely figurative, often approaching the sublime; their imagery well defined and strikingly beautiful. From these poets or bards have come the oral stories of the passing of ships in view of the Islands many generations back, and the landing of foreigners long before the discovery by Captain Cook. The first printing press introduced into the Hawaiian Islands came on the brig Thaddeu's in 1820 with the first of the New England missionaries. In style it is reported to be not unlike that used by Benjamin Franklin. It was set up in a thatched house in Honolulu not far from the old frame Mission House first occupied in 1822 and which still stands. It was not put into actual operation until January 7, 1822. 268 2(15 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES At this historic ceremony there were present Kalanimioku with his retinue and a few other chief s and sonie of the. lesser subjects; also Rev. I tirani. Blii(ianghm E-lishia Loomis, the mission Iprinter; fames I -lunuew~ell, who had arrived in the Thacddcits as one of the officers; and Captains William Henry and Masters, all of the foreigners ileing Americans. Mr. Loomis set up the type Cor the impressions from the first lesson of a spelling book or primer, calledl in H awaiian "Pa-pa."' Kalanimioku was instructcd how to work the press, and had the honor of striking off the second imlpre~ssion, and Mr. Ilunnewell tile third. The last mentioned imip)ressioni xas given to Mr. Hunnuewell, who in turn presented it to tile American Board of Missions, who Iplacedl tL ill the Missionl collection at Boston. It is a sheet four by six inches, havingitvelve hines, each line having- five separate syllables of two letters. This certainly was the first printing dlone at tile Hawaiian Islands, and prol)ably the first oil the shores of the Nortih Pacific..ceani. A. month later Mr. Binghami receivedl a letter from Governor Kniakinii (John Adams), of' I hawaii, who had succeeded in miastering the contents of the first lprillted sheet. Epistolary correslpond~elce was 80011 commneucedl in the HIawaiian languiage and opp1ortunity offered for the birth of Hawaiian literature. A. herculean work followed. From the statistics retnrnedl from January, 1822, to March, 1830, it, is learned that tw,,eilty-two books, totaling- 387,000 copies and 10,287,000 pages, had been addled to tile literature of the Islands. ib11 is wvas all lprillted in I onoluin, whlile 3,345,000 pages of Hawaiian reading~ matter andl ill sciool books, ilad ileell lriltedl by the American Board in tile Unitedl States. On February 14, 1834, the first newspaper aI)1earedl in Hawvaii. It was lpresellted ill tile Hawaiian language, p~rintedl at tile Lahainalinna Semiinary, on Maui, and was called "Lamia I -lawaii" (Hawaiia Light). This was followed by tile "Kumiu Ihawaii" (Hawaiian iTeacller) ill tile sa1le year and from the same Ipress, altllongh Ileitiler paper was a newspaper ill tile seilse tilat it carriedl news of tile day. It was (levotedl entirely to academic instructionl. At this time tile missioll was busily engagedl in producillg scilool books for tile scilools and~ readlillg boo0ks for tile instruc PICTURE ROCKS TO PRINTED PAGES 269 tion of the people at large, for the whole nation, youlng and old, had gone to school and the trend of Hawaiian thought was directed in the channels of educational progress. By far the larger part of the great mass of printed matter issued at Honolulul in the half century subsequent to the arrival of Christian teachers was in the form of religious and temperance works, and school books. Later on, works of a secular nature began to issue from the press and won instant popularity. The stories of George Washington, Napoleon, Napier, great kings and queens of olden as well as of mo(lern times, and later on, of Jackson, Lincoln, Grant, were read by the Hawaiians in their native language. "The Pioneer Boy," a story of Lincoln, was translated and( published in book form for the Hawaiian rea(lers, and "Robinson Crusoe" also foundl nany rea(lers when translated. Few books have ever been printed abroad in the Hawaiian language, and the only way the modern Htaw\aiian reads modlern novels or foreign works, is throlugh translations made for the Hawaiian newspapers and publisled in serial form. Publications in the English langouage began in 1836, when the "Sandwich Islands Gazette" appeared, continuing until 1839. This was pullished by Stephen Mackintosh and bore the earmarks of the traditional type of newspaper of the (lay in America, althought, comparel with present day papers, it carried a miinmum of what would be called "local news." This was followed bv the "Mirror and Commercial Gazette," which existed for a brief period. On June 16, 1840, the first number of the "Polynesian," a weekly newspaper in lEnglish, appeared under the editorship of James Jackson Jarves, (lestined to become one of Hawaii's best known historians and a diplomat, for as envoy extraordinary, appointed in 1848, he was largely responsible for the negotiation of the first treaty with the United States which was ratified in 1850, and settled forever the future independence of the islaln kingdom as far as European powers were concerned. The paper was published weekly for a year and a half, when the editor departed to travel abroad. In 1844 he returned and the paper was again published as the official organ of the Hawaiian Government, he continuing as editor until 1848. He was succeeded by 270 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES other editors, and finally, in 1860, by Abraham Fornander, who also became an eminent historian. In 1863 the office and press were leased by him and continued until 1864 when it was discontinued, during all of its history having presented a remarkable mass of historical matter which is now referred to by all historians and those engaged in historical research. The "Friend," which justly claims to be the oldest paper in the Pacific, was first issued in 1843 by Rev. S. C. Damon, claplain of the Mission to Seamen, and is a valuable publication to this (lay. It was always a monthly magazine, devoted primarily to religious and temperance instruction, but in the "historical period" between 1843, the year of the English seizure, and 1863 was replete with historical papers, researcll and comment, making it of unusual value to the present (lay historians. In 1846 the "Sandwich Islands News" appeared as an organ that, while not launched with a statement that it was not an opposition movemient against the government, was really so. It was conducted by a group of residents, English and American, who were personally antagonistic to several members of Kamehameha's cabinet, including Robert C. Wyllie, Minister of Foreign Affairs; Attorney-General Ricord, Dr. G. P. Judd and others. By ridicule, lampoon and every known method employed in tllose days of journalism, the News cemented its efforts to "break" the men at the helm of the ship of state, but without avail. In its columns appeared the famous "Tongataboo" letters, a satire on the cabinet and its newly launched (lepartmental system, based on the system in vogue with the English royal court; ridiculilng the use of ministerial uniforms, ceremonies, etc., which were intended by Mr. Wvllie to provide a respect for the island sovereign and give him a status of kingship that would be respected by visitors, petitioners, and prevent an intimate feeling that one could meet the king informally adtl slap him on the back. Wyllie's code of etiquette eventually placed the king in the enviable position due his rank, and in the end treaties were exchanged with all powers which placed Hawaii on an equal basis of diplomatic negotiations and made sure the independence of the Hawaiian Islands. The "News" finally was discontinued, but not until its bitter at Picturesque horsebak riding eosntuneO of HIIwniinn1 won until rooont times. The long, flowing ends of 11e o"skirt" streamned out beyond the horses' lanks and gave a colorful efeet. They always rode astride. 272 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES tacks and barbs had sunk deep. Mr. \Wyllie, at least, was unconcerned and continued to carve a niche for his king, his nation and the race. On July 2, 1856, the "Pacific Commercial Advertiser" appeared under the editorship of Henry M. Whitney. This paper, originally a weekly, and forty years later a daily, has always been a powerful factor in making the history of newspaper prestige in H-awaii, as did also the Hawaiian Gazette, which appeared in 1868 as a weekly, and for a time was the official organ of the government. The Gazette was finally merged with the Advertiser and relegated to the limbo of dead publications about 1910. The A(lvertiser was published continuously throughout the Kamehameha and IKalakaua regimes, playing an important part in the overthrow of the monarchy in 1893, and was the foremost champion of the new government, and an advocate of annexation to the United States. Today it holds a place in newspaper service that is equal in quality, if not quantity, to many of the foremost Ipapers on the mainland, having a daily cable and radio service from every part of the world, employing a radio broadcasting.station to disseminate news to the outer islands, and giving the army of tourists in Honolulu a paper each morning of metropolitan aspect. It is a member of the Associated Press. In 1866 Editor Whitney rejected the application of Mark Twain, then a visitor in -Honlolulu, for a job as reporter, on the ground that the paper couldn't afford another reporter, but principally because Editor Whitney believed the man was too lazy. Mark Twain had not then acquire(l fame. The rival in the daily news field of the Adlvertiser is tle Hlonolulu Star-Bulletin, an afternoon 1paper, which appeared first in 1883 as a daily sleet of maritime news, conducted by George Robertson. In six months the popularity of this sheet was such that the Bulletin was estallished as a regular newspap)er. It had many vicissitudes, and at times was forcibly opposed to the government, and following the overthrow of the monarchy, was severely critical of the Dole government. It is one of the most up-to-date of American newspapers and compares favorably with afternoon newspapers anywhere on the mainland, having Asso PICTURE ROCKS TO PRINTED PAGES 273 ciated Press service, wireless and cable news. W.. R. arrington, editor of the Star-Bulletin, was appointed by President Harding as governor of Hawaii and reappointed in 1925 by President Coolidge. The Hlawaiian Star, which was merged with the Bulletin about twenty years ago, was or-ganized in 1893 as an afternoon paper in opposition to the policies of the Bulletin ai(l in favor of annexation. The president of The Honolulu AIdvertiser is IJorrin A. Thurston, grandson of Rev. Asa Thurston, the first missionary to land in Hawaii in 1820. The head of the Star-Bulletin is F. C. Atherton, also of missionary descent. Both are strong, fearless men, each a fighter in his own way for the right, and for civic betterment and virtue. The making of many books concernilg the history of the Hawaiian nation is very noticeable. Events taking place in H-awaii have been fraught with such intense interest to the outer world, almost from the very start, that the result has been more books about Hawaii than hlave beeni compiled concerning other portions of the Pacific. The transitional stage between the old unlettered state and that of a civilized community passed long ago an(l the Hawaiian stan(ls forth as a notable rel)resentative of the influence of American methods of civilization. The literature of his native land, scant as it is, has been the medium of bringing him and his surroundlings to the notice of a world larger than his own. That world, in turn, is revealed to him with all its advantages, anll the call is to press forward to the things that are before him. The falling- away of the native lan-guag-e,!by reason of gradual (lisuse as well as corruption of its real meaning, will l)e regrettel, perhap)s. to some extent, but the induction of this people into the great possibilities presente(l by the more universal 1nglish language tendls to broaden and develop the Hawaiian mind. Like the soul of John Brown tllat "is marching on," that little Ramage press, when it was purchased and put aboard the brig 'lhaddcls in 1819 to be sent to tHonolulu, seenmed possessed of a soul, and a destilny to pioneer tle first printe(l wor(ls in remote, 274 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES uncivilized lands. What became of this first n-.'ssionary press, is often asked. E. O. Hall, of the missionary forces of Hawaii, who was one of the early missionary printers, endorses the statement, which, however, is questioned, that it was the press that he took to Oregon in 1839, the one that is now preserved in the state museum at Salem, Oregon. "When I arrived in Honolulu in 1835, the press had been laid aside, and the office belonging to the A. B. C. F. M. (American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions) had been supplied with several large and improved presses," Mr. Hall wrote in 1875. "It was probably brought out when the mission was established in 1820. When I visited Oregon, in 1839, I took it with me. I have always regarded it as the first printing press introduced into American territory west of the Rocky Mountains, and as such, it richly deserves the careful preservation it is likely to receive from the now flourishing state of Oregon. As a relic of American civilization and Christianity, it is symbolical of the age in which we live, and quite as worthy of 'profound interest' as captured cannons or flaunting battle-flags." It seems that this little Ramage press was (destined for great things, even as the Liberty Bell in Philadelphia has been sent around to different cities that it might serve as an inspiration for greater patriotism and devotion to the ideals of the American republic. In Oregon the press was used to aid in a work of first printing for the Nez Perces and other Indian tribes, and was first used at the ILapwai, or Clearwater station. It was there that Mr. Hall printed on this press, in the summer, autumn and winter of 1839, for Rev. Henry J. Spalding, several small works in the Nez Perce language, and among these were a school book, a hynin book with prayers, and translations from the New Testament. The Whitman massacre of November 29, 1842, having driven the surviving missionaries from their fields of labor, the press was left among the Indians, who being friendly to Mr. Spalding, preserved it and the fonts of type intact. Early in 1848 it was sent to the Salem Vallev. Charles Putnam, an iimmigrant printer, PICTURE ROCKS TO PRINTED PAGES 275 was employed by a minister to set the type and print the "American and Unionist" on the press. The first number was issued at Union City, February 5, 1846. The widow of Mr. Spalding nmade a request that the press be preserved, if possible, bv the state. It cannot be doubted that this venerable relic will always be regarded in Hawaii and Oregonl in the same light as the sword of Washington, the Declaration of Indlepenldence, andl the Liberty Bell, for its service was such that it created civilization out of paganism in the mid-Pacific. Controversy has raged in Hawaii for many years as to the authenticity of the press in the Salem museum, particularly as to whether it is the pioneer press brought to Hawaii. Some claim it was the secon(l, an(l that the first, worn out, was stored, or dumped into a Honolulu cellar and left there, forgotten. However, the statement of Mr. Hall calls for serious consideration. (CHAPITER XX lF RST ISLAND RULE:RS TO (GO ABR(O)AD COUNCIL () C-HIEFI:S MAKEIS HIISTORY 7 NIE of tle strangest narratives conce.rningl the roval faiLilv of axvaii, l)eginnilng with brigllt hopes and fulilling cherished aml)itions to see somethiing of the outsi(le wo(rldl, endled in tragedy, and a complete reorganization of the domestic affairs of the nation, probably fortunate in a measure; for Kamehameha 1I:i, the successor to Kamehameha II, who (liedl alroadl, filled a reign of nearly tlirty years with acts that place(l his kilnglom on a high pedlestal, respecteld by other,overlllllelts. lie almost traoic incidents attedingll the (lelparture of the lkilng anld llis \veeliingl queen lhave lbeen told. The motives which occasionled the refusal of Captain Starlbuck to allow the passage of Rev. Mr. E1lis, were soon apparent. Thle king, had place(l on board( twenty-five thousan(l (lollars in specie to pay his expenses. the re gulatilng of whicl, it is asserted, the captain wisled to secure to himself. Assisted by lean Rives, tlle stowaway Frenchman, lwhom the historian of the voyage, accorlding to Jarves, (lescribes as j)ossessinlg a "low\, cunnrling and profligate nature," Lilholllo was allured to his o(1d practices of grambling and intoxication.. The ship put into Rio Janeir() for a short period. The consul-general for Englalnd gave a ball for the entertainment of their H-awaiian Majesties, anid the emperor, D)om Pedro, treated them with distinguished attention. Captain Starbuck landled his strange 1)asseng-ers at i ortsmtl th, EIngland, oln May 22, 1824, without making- any provision for their comfort. The calptain didl not even make known the fact tlat the ruler hadl landed on Ilnglish soil. The (overllnenlt wvas finally apprised of their presence by the ship's owners. The lion. 1. Byng imme(liatelv receive(1 tle appointment of guartlian to the royal cortege and quarters were provildel for them at Osborne's hotel. FIRST ISLAND RULERIS TO ( —iO ABROAD27 2717 London. Their cash chests were forwTarded to the Bank of Elnglan(1. O)n being olpenel but tenl tihousaind (lollars \Vere found,Of the remiainder, no account was given by the captain, except a bIll of three tlhousandl (lollars for expenses incurredl at Rio. The appearanlce of the royal travelers, before suitable (iresses were providledl, was, for Londlon, something novel. Kamanmaiu,exhibited 'herself' in loose trousers, somewhat after the Tu rkish fashion, it is saidl, andl a long: lbedlowil of coloredl velveteen Liliha in a similar costumie. However, the tailors soon fitted the male; to the newest cut; and 1Parisian11 mlodistes clothed the ladies in accordance with the court fashion of the (lax. Corsets for the first timle en~circled their ample \xvaists; and the London fair, InI their rage for the strangers, son gh lt atterns of the turban that gracedl the brow of the quteeni. The contr-ast between the simple malo of' their deceasedl father, and the splendid habilimeuts withl wh7Inch hIs children were clothed, lmust have exciWel curious reflections,in the minds of their attendla-nts. They behaved, howev~er, Nvith propriety thiough onl one occasion a member of the paurty seeing0 a Mullet, whiiich resembled the species foundI in llaxx\aiian xxvaters, seized it xvith avidlily aind hurried home, xvhere tile impatienlce of the royal guests wvouldl hardly await its dressing. iR i\ fish eating, it milght ibe said here, is not the eating of ra fvi sh as anl Anglo-Saxon xv'ouldl undler-stimd thre term. Raw salimon, or odher raw fishi, is lprelparedl InI -a manner that bespeaks the connoisseur, the gift of science that is met xvith inI the best French chefs, for the fish is cut in plieces and mixed xviiih small chili peppersY (nio ), salt, tomatoes, and1 is iced in modlern days, though in ancient (lays ice xvas not to be Iiad. Needless to adld that the hpelppers serve as oiie ineaiis of "cooking"' the fish; therefore it is not raw. It may be saidl that in the m-ost fashionable homes of I1lawaii todlav, Anglo-Saxon or H-awvaiian, lomilomied salmon is a choice dish, vet it is raw saliil0ii, and lpielparedl as above. Strangers from ab~roadl soon become adhelpts in Partaking" of this "~raw" fish. This may (lisl)o~e,of the idlea that raw fish eating was a habit that xvas almlost akin to cannibalism, wh~ich never existedk in the _Hawaiian I1slands. 27S UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES Rives was (lismissed from office as interpreter on account of continued ill behavior, and James Young, part-Hawaiian, a son of John Young, favorite foreigner attached to Kamehameha First's court, was appointed in his place. The nobility bestowed many flatteriing attentions upon the party. Their pictures were to be found in every shop window. They were feasted and flattered; taken to the shows and sights of the metropolis, and hurrie(l from one route to another. They were the special royal guests at the Covent Garden theatre, the king's box, a picture of which is one of the treasures in the Archives of Hawaii. ()i June 12, Manui, the steward, was attacked by measles. The next (lay the king sickened, and by the 19th the entire party was afflicted. Dr. I-olland attendled them, but in a few (lays the queen lbecame dangerously ill, and a consultation of physicians was held. Boki and Kekuanaoa rapidly recovered, and Kapille, tlhe ad(liral, was soon convalescing. On July 4, Liholiho was sufficiently recoveredl to give an audience to the newly appointed consul to his kingdom. Two (lays later no hopes for the queen were entertained. The mutual grief of the royal couple was affecting. Tley held each other in warn and protracted enibrace, while the thought of dying so early in her career, so far from her loved islands and people, caused the tears to gutsh freely. In the evening she die(l. This sad event so affected the (lepresse(l spirits of the king that he sank rapidly, and on July 14 died. Previous to his death lie drew up a rough memorandum ill which lie expresse(l his wish to have his body and that of his consort conveyed to their native land; his personal effects he ordered (listributed among his retinue. Tlie survivors received mnuch kindness and were taken to such places as were calculated to improve their minls an(l create a favorable impression of EIPngland. On September 11, George IV granted them an interview at Windsor, in which he received them courteously, andp promise(l protection, should any power malnifest a disposition to encroach upon the sovereignty of the Islands, a promise that in tle light of recent historical discoveries, was faithfully kept in 1843. All their expenses were provided for by the govertnment, and the nlonev lodged in the bank returned FIRST ISLAND RULERS TO GO ABROAD 279 to them, which they expended in presents for their friends at home. The frigate Blonde, comnmanded by Lord Byron, was ordered to convey to Oahu the remains of the sovereigns, which had been deposited in lead coffins, enclosed in \ood, covered with crimson velvet and richly ornamented. Suitable inscriptions in English.and in Hawaiian gave the rank and ages of the deceased. Boki and his followers embarked at Portsmouth on September 28. Before the arrival of the vessel in Hawaiian waters, Boki and Liliha were baptized, at their request, by the chaplain, Lord Byron standing sponsor. On May 4, 1825, the Bloiidc came in sight of Lahaina. A boat put out from the frigate, containing Boki and his consort and suite. The cry spread through the village. "It is Boki, it is Boki!" and thousands thronged to the shore for new\s. Some began to wail. Hoapili, the father of Liliha, took a seat iupon the beach. As she approached the crowd opened a passage for her into the center of the group. Father and daughter embraced. The little Princess Nahienaena embraced Liliha. Hloapili, unable to restrain his emotions, threw himself upon the ground. His example was followed by all the veterans of the court, and tile assembled multitude broke forth into a wail which, drowning the roar of the surf, echoed over the hills far and wide. Led by Boki, the chiefs prayed. Boki wrote to his brotler, Kananimoku, at Honolulu, apprising him of the tragedly, and told him of King George's words, "If you wish to have me for your friend, you and your people must all learn to read and write. If you do not attend to instruction, I shall not b)e your friend." He also told them tlat when he inquired of him, "whether it was wise to encourage the teachers of religion," he replied, "Yes, they are a people to make others good. I always have some of them by me;" and spoke of the former barbarous state of Britain, referring to its present condition as an instance of what Christianity and civilization could accomplish. The Blonlde arrived at Honolulu on the 6th and fired a salute which was promptly returned. Boki and his party were received at the landincg by all the chiefs, lressed in deep mourning. Files 280 280 ~UNDER HJAWAII-AN SKIES of soldliers kept the crowds at a respectful (listance. Kaahuml-alnt led the way to the barges, accom-rpanied by her two sisters and the widlows of the (leceased moniarch. They wept alou d. After a short interview they hastenedl to the house of Kalanimi-oku, who was ill, an(I thenice to the chapel where divine services were held, after which B3oki madle ani adidress, recommendilmo, attention to "letters and relig-ion." The following day the chiefs gave audience to L..ord Byron and his officers', at which the gifts of King Georg-e to the heads of' the nation were lpresenLedl. The young king,-to-be, Kauilkeaouili (Kamiehameha III) was clothed, to his gyreat satisfaction. in a rich Windsor uniform, with chapeau and swordl. Kaahitnmanu and Kalaiiniomok also received testimionials suitable to their stLationi. The funeral obsequies on- the 11ith were a mixture of barbaric 1)0111 and civiiizedl customs, which accord wvell with the tranlsitional state of the nation. Twenty men in the native mourning habit, some with rich feather cloaks, bearing by couples the lofty, immenise feathered stlaffs (kahilis) of state, wavingy heavily to anid fro, headed the processioni. D)ouble lines of soldliers extend(ie oni both sides of the road from the fort to the chapel. The miarinies, lban(l a-n(l officers of the ]?/oi(dc, w~;ith all the foreigniers. walked in regular files. The cofihns were lplace(l on two cars, surmounted by rich canopies of black, an-d each (Irawnt by forty of tile jilferior chiefs. The kJino anid his sister, with L~ord Byron and Conisul Charitonl, came immediately after the chiefs, two by two, accord]ing,, to their respective ranks; a hundred seamen of tile frigate closingy tie lprocession. After tile funeral cereilollies at the cliurcil tile processioni mlarchedl back to tile ilonse of Kalanimioku wihichl had been lpreiparedl for the receptionl of the officers. 'There tile venleralble chieftaill, witil1 tears strealling ilis face, received tile remallisl of tilose who, throughd life, had been as ilis owil off spring.He1c alonie, of all Ka~mehiamehias cotiliselors, reulalined alive. They hadi (liedl as hleatileis. Il~e -alonie coiliecte(I tile past witil tile lpreseilt. On tile 6th of Juile, thle grand( council assembled for settling tile succession aild reouilatiilg otiler goverilnleital affairs. Be sid(Ie s tile chliefs, Lord Byroni, the Eng(lish consul aild Rev. Hi1ram Bing-; FIRST ISL-AND RULEIRS To GO AIBRO)AI) 28 281 ham were p~resen~t. Naihie, the national orator, ojpeled the businles-s iby stating that they hial m-et to confirm the crowNn to Kau-ikeaouli, andl establish suitable laws for the state. The votn ng prince was unanimously proclaimedl king. Kalanimoku adldressedl the chiefs, setting, forth many (lefects in their laws and cuistoms, p)articularly the rev-,ersion of land~s to the king- on the (leath of. their occupants. Kamehameha, hie said, had partially established a hereditary tenuire of lands. Kalanimoku proposed that Kaimehameha's policy lbecome the establishedl law of the kingodoml, andl that the lands of the chiefs shiould be unalienable ain their families, excep~t ain case of treason. A proposal 50 g-reatly to their advantage was adloplted by acclamation. Boki informed the council of his interviewN with George IV, in which hie had consented to watch over the kingdlom anl lprotect it from foreign invasion. He also repeated the advice ain regard to missionaries. Kuiakin~i l)roi( )sedl that Kauikeaouli should receive a ChristLian edlucation, a~ind be selparated as much as possible from those of his subjects wvhose influence would leadl him to the vices whichlhe (leclared had statine the character of his brother. ''ibis met \with the approbation of all. Kapiolani, the clhiefess who had defiedl the go(1(less, P ele at the brink of the crater of Kilauea, then stated her endeavors on IHawaii to dlimiinish the p~romiinent vices of the nation, and that she had piromulgated lawvs p)rohiiitingr murder, iiifanticide, theft and (lehatichery. Kaahumanu. in ai short speech, expressedl her aplproval of suich measuires,, prop1osedl their uiniversal adoption, and that instruction Sl~ouldl be given. to the people at Large. Lord Byron gave some] useful hints for their (lonmestic polity, iii which hie uirged a uniform taxation, the abolition of vilianag-e, the lprotection of life to the common people. Ilie also approved of the labors anml (lesigrns of the mission,its prin~ciples being fully exlplainedl in an adldress by Mr. Binghlam, who stated that their iiistructions forbade any interference in the ploitical concerns of the ination. The recogniition of their existence bv the 1?noldish g-overnment as a free an(l indlelpenident lpeolple was fully assuredl thenm, and thlat in no wise \vouldl that p~ow\er (dict~ate or interfLere -12 282 UNDT)'R HAWAIIAN SKIES in their domestic affairs. By his recommendation (Byron's) tlle exorbitant port duties were lmuch reduced, and regulations for the seizure and delivery of leserters from ships agreed upon. These were re(luced to writing, signed, sealed and promulgated l)y Kalanimoku. it was the first official written document of their legislation. Kaahumanlu was continued in the regency during the minority of the kingl, with Kalanimoku as her prime minister. The council then broke up. To show.gratitu(le to tlhe Elnglish government for the attention receive(l in EI]ngland, Boki proposed that sites for the English consulate an(l consular residence ble bestowed upon the consul, for himself and his succcssors in office. With the approbation of 1Kaalhumanu tils was done by verbal grant, and Charlton received the spot of land afterwards known as Beretane, as his residence, and a smaller lot near the fort for his office. These spontaneous (ifts to tile EInglish nation were afterwards made by Charlton a nmost fruitful source of vexation and injustice to tlle chiefs. The Blonde sailed for Hawaii, havingI Kaahumanu and suite on lboar(l. (;rateful for the attentions and kindness of Iord Byron, the chiefs vied in their semi-barbaric hospitality to (lo honor to the guest of tle nation. At Kealakekua Byron erected a humble monutment to the memory of Cook, on the spot where his body was )urnt. It consisted of an oaken cross, into which a copper llate was inserted, bearing' an inscription. Byron shares with Vancouver tlie affection of the Hawaiian race. Byron had the bay of Hilo surveyed completely andl it was named on English charts as Byron's Bay, but in time it gradually became known as I-lilo lbay. Owing to the numerous references to the memlers of the royal family and the chiefs and the makeup of the government the following list of the princil)al chiefs comprising the court of Kamehameha If, with their respective ranks, is necessary to understand their relative situations and the stations they ultimately filled. This was immediately after the period of tle introduction of Christianity in 1820. FIRST ISLAND RULERS T( G(O ABROAD 283 Kanmelianieliha II (Liholiho), king of all tlie group. Kanuikeaouli, his younger brother, afterward S Keo)puollani, Queen Mother. Kamelhamleha III. Nahielnaena, his sister. Kaahumanu (second in authority), dowager queen and guardian of the lkin gdo m. Kal:aiiua (H1oapili Wihiine) Also former queens of Kacelhamleha, I. N a ma a h in a. Knamaialu, ] KRu i lt,I., Queens of Kamelih:(meha II. The first two Keku:luohi, or A 'uha, were daughters of his father by Kaiakua. Pauahl, I Kekauonohi.:aulmualii, king of Kauai and Niilau. Kealiiahonui, his son. Kapuli, queen of Kauai. Ka:lalinimoku (\William l'itt), originally of minor rank, hut for his abilities promtoted to fill the highest stations. He wals prime m]inister, a:ntd, next to the king, the most influential man in the hkingdom, thouogh in authority subordinate to Knaalhuianu. Icleiohoku, his son. K:aikioewva. guard of tile )rince (Kauikeaouli). Keaweeaminhi, his wife. Holapili, guard(ian of Nahienaena. Naihe, beredlitary counselor and national orator. Kapiolani, his wife. Kuakini (John Adamrs), ] These two were sons of Kamellmneha 's Governor of Hawaii. famous warrior and counsellor, KecauKeeaumoku (Cox), Governor n moku; brothers also of Kaalhumllanu, of Maui anld its depend- KTalakua and Namalana; all deseended encies. J from the royal family of Maui. Boki, gover nor i of Oa, bKaflanimoku. Lilila, his wife. Wahlineopio, sister of Kalanimokull, mother of Queen Kekaluonohli. Kahilaiia, her son, anld nephew of (amehamelhal I. Kapille, commanmder of the king's vessels. Kekuanaoa, superintendelnt of sandalwood and treasurer of the Dking;:Ifterwards governor of Oahu; father of King Lunalilo. ]Kakio, } Brothers descended from the last king of Maui, and said Kalhekili. to h:ave Spanish blood in their veins. Ii, Lananui, LAll of these were 'puniahele,l " or bosom companions of the Puaa, king. Kalaikoa. J 284 UNDLER IHAWVAIIAN SKIE S Beside these names, the chiefs had a multitude of others, which answered for titles. They were frequently changed or assumed for trifling circumstances. The English appellations were bestowedl y visitors. The Hawaiian names are llighly figurative. and generally derived from some particular event which they were desirous of clmmemoralingl-. Kamehameha signified "the lonely one;" KeopuolLani, "the gathering of the clouls of the heavens;" Kauikeaouli, "hanging in the blue sky;' Kanamaalu, "the shade of the lonely one," a namle assumed after the death of her father; Il oapili, "close a(lhering comp)anion," from the friendship which existedl between the old kilng- andl himself; Kaahunmanu, "the feather mantle;" Lilihha, "the fat of hogs;' Auhlea, literally, '"where," frolm her mournful repetition of this word, after the lecease of 1IKamehalellha; Kapiolani, "the captive of heaven;" Kalakua, "the way of the go(ls;" Kahekili, "thuilnder;"' Paalua, a name of TKalallimloku's, "twice blind,l( expressing his grief by saying hie lhal lost his eyes for the (leaths of Kamehamhel a and a favorite wife. Manyl of these nobles were remarkable for tleir corpulelcy. Some weighed from three to four hun(lre(l pounds. Others were of herculean strenlgtil and well p)roplortione(l. (CHAPTER XVI THE K1- [! I N\ N IT, (OR IPREIERSH IP' NOTABLE W( )I MEN PI'I O)T SHIP O1 STATE, B ][ttHE office of Kuhina Nui, or p)relmier, was of -great importallce in the affairs of the goverilment since the (lays of Kanlehameha I. ID)ring the rei-gn of Kamehameha II and the early part of the reign of Kamlellhameha III, the Kuilina Nni exercised almost regal power. There was realized an example of the old RIoman laraldox, illmperitnm in imperio — a goverlnmenit within a government. It was an office, to a certain extent, ]hereditary. Accordilng to 1-lawaiian ideas, it was not an office which coul( l e heldl lby y laerson not a highl chief, and evenl that chief must lelong (if tlhe expression may be allowed() to the Kaahnmlanu dlynasty. The following p>ragralphs relating" to this office are copied from a volume published in 1842, anll entitled "Constitution an(l IEaws of tile Hawaiian Island(s": "It shall hle the (duty of the Kilng to apploint some cllief of ranlk candl aility to ble his partictlar minister, whose title shall be p)remier of the Kinlldom. }His office and business shall be the same as that of Kaalhumanu I, and Kaahumanu II. For even in tle time of Kamehameha I life and (leath, conr(demnation and acquittal, wNere in the halnds of Kaahulmanll. lWheln Kamehameha I died, his will was, 'The King(ldom is Liholiho's and Kaahumant is his AMinister.' That inllortant feature of the -,overnment, originate(1 1bv Kamehameha I, shall be!)erl)ptuate(l in these Hawaiian Islan(ls, )ut shall always l)e in subserviency to the law. "The followin- are tle luties of the premier: All business connecte(l with the slpecial interests of the king-dom, which the kinglm wishes to transacct, shall lbe done ly the l)remier tunler the aulthority of the kini-. All documents and business of the kinlg(lomn executeld b the plremier shall le considered as execute(l by 286 286 ~UNDE-R HAWNAIIAN SKIES the kingcs authority. All governmient projperty shall be reported to him (or her)' and he (or she') shall make it over to the king. IThe premier shall lbe the king-'s special counsellor in the great business of the kingdom. "The king ) shall not act without the knoxvledge of the premier, nor shall the lpremier act w\,ithout the knowledlge of the kincr and the veto of the kingy or the acts of the preniier shall arrest the business. All important buisiness of the kingdom which the kingl chooses to transact in person, hie, may (10 it, but not without the approbation of the premier." The following is a lirief biographical sketch of each illustrious persoiiage wvho successively (lischargedl the office of Kuhina Nuiii commencing with KAAHUTMANU I 181.9-1832 She wvas a wvife of Kamehaileha I, and a lautlohter of Keeaumokni, one of the famous chiefs and warriors who assisted Kamehameha I in the conqutest of the Islands. Her (lescent may be traced to the kings of Mlaui, and she was born at Kawaipapa, inl IlTana, onl East M~aui. Her natuirally hiaughty and imiperious character gave lier great influence, even liefore the (leath of her husband; but after his death, (hurilig,~, the reign of Lihlolilho, her power naturally became much increase(l, for it was for the purlposC of giving stability to the authiority of Lilholilio that she was investedl with almost unlimlited powers by Kanieliameha I. )n the 9th. of (October, 1821, she was inarried to Kaumuitalii, the kind. of 1K-aia i, who took' uip his residlence upon the islaiid of ()aliu, and ackniowledg-ed the islanid of Kaua'I as a hart of the il4awaiian 1\ilig(loii. She maiiifested at first a haugtm eev towardl the missionaries, hut sub~sequenitly learned to readl aiid write. As the progress of learninig) and religrion becanie iiore extelidedl, she finialhy tl-exv her whole inifuence onl the side 0f the missionaries Vand the spreadl of C'hristianiity aniongy the Haiwvalan hieople. On the (lelparture of Liholiho, in 1823., for EnglandI, lie left -the supreme control of affairs of the goverunient in the hands of Kaahumianu and Kalanim-oku. The heir -apparent being only NOTABLE, \V MIN PILOT 1SVIltP OU STATFL 287 eight years of age, the regency of the goverunmcnt (levolv-ed 111)01 Kaahumanu, buit she recei vedl important aid from Kalanimokui. Ilie was p)robabliy the most influential man in tlhe king-domi, al — thoug-h ]inferior in rank to lKaalmimanui. By foreaigners lie wa~s signilficantly stvledl "Billy Pitt," ain(l his influence (hiringc a portion of the reigni of Kainehameha 1ill was asimoratoth xvell-lbeiug of this king-dom as was that of his illustrious niamesake to the g-overnment of Georg-e lit,. lie was the active ag~ent in admilnistering( the affairs of the kingdom, and whene the rehellion ( 1824) was qftiete(l on tile island of Katialihe was at tile head of the o-overnment or victorious army. During the miniority of Kamehameha, II, _Kaahumauuaims inifluence continued to he very\, great. Her zeal for the establishment of tile Clhristiam religion1 was inteilse. WVhenever she madle tours of the Islands it was her Practice to afford the people unlmistakable lproofs that sie was (lecidedlly in favor of the missionaries. Th1is circumnstance reililerecl her ai olljcct of ilotil hatred and (lreadl ly those of that ag-)e who were unfavorable to the triumiph of Christianity. On the arriv-al of a company of missnioiarles in 1831, she addressed a letter to an officer (of the American Boardl of Mssins i Botonfromt whicil the folloxving is an extract: "Oahu, Sept. 11, 1831. Ij, ail l ie wihoml I have ibrouglt uip [the young king], hatve illdeedi carried tile word of our Lord throug(h fromt Hawaii to Kauai; with the love of the heart towards God was our jouriieyinlg, to proclaill to tile people His love, and HIls law, and to tell the peop~le to oi)serve them-." I-er deatil occurrel oil the 5th of june, 1832, ini the valley of MAanoa, islaild of Oahu, andl her renlains were deposited in the 01(1 Royal Tomb in Hoilolulin. During her last sickniess she confitiedl to express hler firm attachmenlt to the religion (if Cllrist. T hose who were hlreseilt heave recordled mnany touicllmg illcideints,. 5lhowinlO, that althoughl Ibor in heathenism, aind livillgy for half a, century undler the d(leradling influence of idolatry aild suIperstition, slle did finally renounce all her corrupt associations and 288 288 ~UNDEIR IJAAVAITAN SKIES emibrace the gosp)el of Christ. She was succeedled by Kiniau un(ler the title of KAALIUMNANU 11-1832-1839 l\-inaui, the illustrious persoiiage concerning whom- we nowv write, was (lescenledl from the royal line of the ancient kingys o)f M~aui. She was the niece of Kaahumiianu 1, and daughter of Kam-iehianeha I and Kalakuia, 1hetter known as IRoapiliwahine-, the governess of Maui (lurinig 1841-42. She was a sister of Kanmamlalin, the queen, who (lie1 In Eno-land, and also one of the wives of Liholiho. After his death she married Governor Kekuianaoa of Oahui, and was the mnother of His Majesty Alexander Liholiho (IKamiehaimeha I-V), of Lot Kameihamleha, and of Her Royal 11ighness, P rin-cess Victoria Kamuamialui, Kuhina N-ui inl the 'fifties. The character of iKinati was less imperious than that of her lpredlecessor Kaahumianu, but not less emiphatic in support of lpulblic miorality and the welfare of the kingdomn. She is spoken of by tlhose acquail~edl with her as pectiliarly amiiable, mild, andl (lgiifiedl stistainingip her office with s'ingu-'lar and becom-ingpo p)ricty. tier influence was felt in carrying out mieasuires of reformi which had been commiienced. After her (leath the Amieric~an miissionaries bore the followning testimiony respecting her character ''She snistaiined the highest rank in tlhe nation except the king., l4or stability of character she has left no edqual. She was ever awake to the interests of the niation, and showed no ordlinary skill ini mianiaginog its concerns, even in the most troublous timles. She set her face against the lprevaililnh immnoralities, anld gave satisfactory evidelnce of a re-adiness to make any l)ersonal sacrifice for the purpose of p)ro1]1iotingio Christian mlorals, and the best interests of the, nation.'" Heir imuch lamented (leath occurred onl the 4th of April, 1839, but her funeral was (leferredl until the 7th of June. Her remains were dlepositedl in the Royal 'Tomb), Iin Honolulu, beside those of others of the illustrious (leadl of her nation. Onl the clay following- her fnneral, her half sister, Kekauilnoh-ii was lploclaim-11 NOTFABLE WO( )MLN PIL(f)T St-IIP ()F sTATE.'F 2819 edl her successor in office, but with a full recog~nition of the -fact that Kinas nfant (laughter, Vcoia, was hrspro in, rank. 1,EIKAU )LUOH-1,839-184:5 Pier ofhicial title wvas the same as that by which she h1ad been lpreviously known. Thle following official doctimcwnt, isudby thie king( Onl the (lay of her inauguration, shiows how punctilious the.chiefs wvere to give every chief his or her proper rank: "Honoluilu, June 8thi, 1839. "Thle exlplanation of Kamiehiamieha IIIH resp)ecting the (lescent of the auithority of Kaahuiuann If to her hecir aunl successor, \Victoria Kaiumanilu 11, in whiose lplace, howvever, AMirian1 Kekaniluohli is to act for the lpresent. This is his proclaiiationl "Hear, ve chilefs, p~atricianls, lplelbeians, and p)eop~le froni other lands, for I make this explanation that you may understand. "''The authtority hiltherto ipossesse(l by my mother, Kaahutmanlu If, uintil -her (lecease, is no(w transferred to my other mother Miriam IKekauluohil) thiough Victoria Kamamalu It is her sulperior, but still under my (lirection1. 'Furthiermore: no (locuments nor notes, refer-able to government, after this (late, whilch hiave not liy Ownl sig-natuire, andl alo that of Mfiriamu Iekauluioh-i. at the bottom of said writingy will be acknowledged as governiment pap~ers." The following sketchi of her life is taken from tlhe iPolynesianl of June 21st, 1845: "She was the last adlult member of thiat (listinguisliedl family wh~i~ch for the past sixty years has, as it were, shiared the I iawaiian thirone with the- king-s themselves. Tier grandfathier, Keeauimloku, was the most noted of all the warriors of tie, time of i~1amehameha I, and by his p~ersonal prowess lplacedl that eminent man onl the thirone of Hawvaii:first by slaying- withi his own hiand, hlis gcreait antagonist Kiwalao, and subsequently, Keonia, the only remaining enemy onl that islandl. lieino, much older than Kaniehamehia, and a chief of suich eminence, that wi. e king( made him his lprincipal counsellor, and relied on h1im as his chief,execuitive agent in condlucting- the affairs of the kingdomi. UNDER HAW\AIIAN SKIES "Il early life she was betrothed to Pomare, the former king of Tahiti, and had his life been prolonged it is quite probable slhe would have been sent to him. She became, however, a wife of Kalehamella I. Upon his leath, his son and successor, Liholiho, made her one of his queens. These facts serve to show from what a system of barbarism, missionary influence has re(leemedl the landl. For, being a dautghter of a queen of Kamehamelha, she married either her own father or father-in-law, and afterwards became wife to either her own brother or son-in-law. 1Hence must have arisen a confusion of relationship that the utmlost skill of even herself, as royal genealogist, could not have solved. She subsequently married Kanaina, by whom she had two chillren, the younger of whom, William Charles Iunalilo, survives. [lie afterwards (1872) was elected king.] "Kekauluohi was in her childhood considered by Kamehameha First to hlave a good mind, an(l especially a retentive memory. She was therefore selected by him as a repository for the ancient lore of the country, which was of course stored only in the lind(ls of the I)eople, an(l consisted of the genealogies of the chiefs, l)roverl)s or wise savings of former kings, together with hiistorical legelnds, elegies and songs. Genealogy was more particularly her departmenlt, thloughl Ierhal)s no onle is now living x1who( stanlds so high even in the other departments. "lThe system by 1which she was taught was exceedingly rigorous. P'ersons were elmployed by the direction of the king-, who acted as teachers, an(l she was confined with them in the closest manner for many lhours il the day, with little interruption, for several years. "Shle early gave attention to religious instruction, a(l m-ade a plbli p)rofession of hier faith in Christ in the year 1828. For a numbler of years she was an ornament to her profession, and her benleficial influence on others, even of the highest class, was extensively felt. A similar splirit prevailed lduring the last few weeks of lher life. H-laving received a large bequest from her uncle, the late Governor of Hawaii, she consecrated one-tenth of it to religious purposes. NOTABLE \OV( )MEN PILO T SHIP OF STATAE 291 "She had a large amount of property ill her name, the most of which she held as guardian for her niece, Victoria IcKamamalu. Her own estate, however, was consideralle, the whole of which she bequeathed to her sol." In the fourth volume of the U. S. Exploring Exl)edition (Wilkes) will be found a well executed steel engraving of IKekauluohi, or, as she was commonly known armong foreigners, Auhea. She continued to discharge the duties of the Kuhina Nui until her death, which occurred on the 7th of June, 1845, for we find her name attache(l to a royal proclamation alppointing a public fast, and the said Iproclamation is datel only five days before her (leath. Slle was succeeded by Keoni A\na, or, as commonly known amoll foreigners, John Young. I(KEONI ANA\-1845-1855 The premiership now l)assel into the hands of a clief, althoutgh hitherto felmales had always dischargedt the functions of this office. Th'e following proclamation will indicate the rank of tle distinguished person who succeeded Iekatultohi: "At the Palace, oil the 10tl inst., His Majesty the King, was graciously please(l to appoint His Excellency KO()NI ANA (Governor John Young) to tle exalted rank of KlUJHINA NUI (Premier) of the kingdom, in the room of the late lamented Premier, Her Royal Itiglless KEl KAl LUOHI I. "It is His Majesty's pleasure that the Premlier be distinguished ly the style of HIS HIG(HN — ESS. "GOD P RESERVE THE K ING" Governor Young was the son of the celebrated John1 Youllg, the English sailor lwhose name is so intimately associated with that of Kamehameha I. He was the king's co)mpanion in war. and( most influential counsellor in peace. At the time of Mr. Youno's appointment, he was tile governor of Maui. H-e now became Ilore intiilatelv associatedl withl Kamehameha III in governingl the kingdlom. The connection nlust have b)een peculiarly gratifying to His 'Majesty, for Mr. Young had been his most intimate comll)anion from the earliest period of life. W\lherever the kinl residedl. Ir. Young was 292 UNDER -lHAW\AIIAN SKIES found with him. Their intimacy continued through life. They were nearly of the same age, and were similar in their tastes anld feelings. Since the (eath of Kamehameha III, an officer of the goverilnent alnd anl old resident remarked that, "The king and Johnl Young were never a week apart all their lives." This ilay lbe a strolng expression, but it indicates the warm attachment existing l)etween them. Mr. Young survived his king. 1During the period that Mr. Young held the office of premier, its limitatiolls anld powers becamle more distinctly defined and accurately fixe(l, as will be seen by reading the following sectiol, colied from the New Constitution of the HTawaiian Kingdlon1, adlopted in 1852: SECTI(N II; OC) TH-E KUHINA NUI Art. 43. The King appoints solme chief of rank and ability to be his Kluhlina Nui, who shall be styled the Kuhina Nui of tlhe Hawxaiian Islands, and whose title shall be Highlness. Art. 44. The Kuhina Nui shall be the King's special Counsellor in the great affairs of the Kingdom. All business coilnected withl the special interests of the Kingdom, which the King- wishes to transact, shall b)e (lone by the Kuhina Nui under the authority of the King. All Acts, Royal Patents, Conmmissions, and other official dlocuments, dluly executed by the Kuhina Nui in tile iname and by the consent of the King, agreeably with Article 35, uIlless sp)ecially excel)teld by tile law, shall be equally l)iill nr:IS if executed by tlhe King himself. Art. 45. All ilmportant business of the Kingdom which the Kilng chooses to transact in i)erson, he may (lo, but not without tlhe ap)lroblation of the KIuhila Nui. The King andl Kuhina Nui shall have a negative on each other's public acts. Art. 46. The Kuhina Nui shall have charge of the Great Seal of tlhe Kingdom, of tle Royal Standard, and of the National I'lag; andl il the abselce of the Kinl', he shall preside over the delilerations of the Privy Council. Art. 47. Wlhenever the throne shall become vacant by reason of tle Kinlg's death, or otherwise, and during the minority of any heir to the throne tile Kullhinla Nui, for the time being, shall, NOTABLE WOMEN PILOT SHIP OF STATE 293 (luring such vacancy or minority, perform all the duties incumbent on the King, and shall have and exercise all the powers, which by this Constitution are vested in the King. Art. 48. Whenever (luring the vacancy of the throne, or the minority of any heir to it, the office of Kuhina Nui shall become vacant by death, resignation, or otherwise, then the Privy Council, or the major part of them, shall during such vacancy have full power and authority to do and execute all and every such acts, matters, and things, as the King or Kuhina Nui might or could, by virtue of this Constitution, (lo or execute. And in such case the Privy Council, immediately after the occurring of such vacancy, shall cause a meeting of both Houses of the Legislature, who shall elect by joint ballot a person to fill the office of Kuhina Nui. During the last few years Mr. You1nr (lischarged the duties of both the office of Kuhina Nui and Minister of the Interior. After the death of His Majesty he resigned the former. but discharged the latter. VICTORIA KAMAMALU-1855 Victoria Kaiamalu became Kuhina Nui un(ler the title of Her Royal Highness the Princess Victoria Kamamalu. She was the sister of the king, Kamehlamleha IV, being the daughter of Governor Kekuan-aoa and Kinau. She was born November 1, 1838, and was sixteen years of age when appointed. According to the ideas of Hawaiian chiefs, she was entitled to hold this office by hereditary right. Since the death of her mother, she was always under the special guardianship and care of the Honorable John Ii, than whom a more suitable person could not have been found in the kingdom. Her education was carefully attended to by the teachers of the Royal School; and for several years she resided in the family of Amos Cooke, who was principal of the school. Among her own people she was always looked up to as a worthy representative of her illustrious mother, and the rightful heiress of the honors and dignities of the office of Kuhina Nui. The office was abolished in 1864. CHAPTER XVII AMIERICA;N WARSHIPS ON GUARD COMMANIDERS WERE DI)1t1'LOMATS AND ADVISERS S the Colistitutionl follows the Flag, so the Flag of America has followed pioneering Americans to distant lands and seas, which may account for the fact that American warships did not arrive in Hawaiian waters until after the arrival of the American missionaries in 1820. As soon as the interests of Americans in the then Sandwich Islands appeared to be jeopardized by those of foreign powers, Yankee war vessels, unostentatiously and without prior notice droppedl their anchors in various island harbors and roadsteads, b)ut seldom li(l their commnandlers loosen the lashings from the,guns or remove the pomploms except to fire salutes of honor. It was 1826 before an Amlerican man-o'-war arrived off Honolulu. Trhat was in the summer. It was followed by a second vessel in the fall of the same year, and from then on American warships were in the habit of dropping anchor off port with a regularity that made the American residents happy and duly impresse(l tlle subjects of other nations. Captain \William P'aty, a Yankee shipmaster, and the first harbormaster of 1Honolulut, may therefore have been justified in the use of sluperlatives when he saw Old Glory flying fromn an American warship rounding to off Htonolulu, on Monday, February 13, 1843; for a British warship, the Carysfort, commanded by Lord George Paulet, had arrived only a short time before,and laid Honolulu helpless uinder the guns of his frigate, lowered:the royal Hawaiian flag, lestroyed all island ensigns, and raised the B:ritish ensign. In his diary, Captain Paty gave vent to his patriotism and joy in the following description of the warship's arrival: AME'RICAN \VARSHlIPS ON GUARD 29 295 "Hurra! Hurra! Hiurra! for the Stars and Stripes! Iiurra! for our gallant Navy! Hurra for our gloriouis cotintry! (Oh, ye Yankees who live at home at ease, how little can you imaixine the stirring thrill of joy and l)pride that ag-itates the bosom of your countryman who, roaming far away in foreignt lands, andl in the nidst of trouble, (lifficulty and danger, hears the cry of Sail 0, and the next moment sees the Stars andl Stripes floating over the brave hearts and powerful batteries of an American ship of war. T'here may be readlers who smile in (lerision at this, b)ut I feel assuredl that theyv will not be fromt among the nutml)er of Americanis who were resident at Honolulu in February, 1843. "I believe this to lbe btut a fainit expression of the feelinogs of every truly Americani heart in this place when the iT. S. S. Sloopof-XWar Boston was first seen roundinig Diamond IHeadl this day at about 2 ). in. The Boston, Commander Long, came to anchor off the harbor at aboout 5 o'clock, p. nii. She is from Cantoni via Tahiti,.. days from the former anid 19 from the latter place.' Then on the following day the Americanis went aboard the Bosto U. and paid their respects. "Durinig the (lay, Captain IPaty wrote, "upwards of thirty of the most respectable residlcnts (mostly Americanis) have called to paIy their respects on board the Boston andnl all have been received with the utmost cordliality and kitnidness. Praises are thickly shoxvered on Commander L ong not only for the contrast between his conduct and that of Lord George Paulet, btut for the real g-ool huImored and amiable disposition which lie evidentl lypossesses." The followingy (lay Lord Geol-rge notified the ITawaiian government that hie would attack the town, having filed a copv with the IT. S. Consulate. Conimmantder Long immediately notified all American resitlC1ts that lie would transform his warship into an asvl~u for any Americans who (lesired to take refuge there, anid the ship's boats of merchant vessels were also requisitioned andl sent to the Reynolds' wharf to carry people to the Boston. 296 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES So a U.S. S. Boston was on guard at Honolulu in 1843. A U. S. S. Bostonz was on guard at Honolulu in 1893. 'I'he importance of making a naval station for the United States in the Hawaiian Islands was advocated at Honolulu as early as 1841, when the editor of the Polynesian urged, editorially, such action upon the American government. He stated that all the commanders of U. S. ships of war visiting the Islandls had been impressed with what they considered to be such a necessity, and stated it would be a feature of their respective rel)orts. "That the government at home is beginning to appreciate representations to this effect," he wrote in May, that year, "and to be more fully aware of the great amount of American property and interests which are in so exposed a situation in this ocean, we may infer fromi the fact that the sloop-of-war Yorktoiwn, under the command of one of tie most active and capal)le captains of the navy, has been ordered to cruise throughout Polynesia with a special view toward the whaling interests. When we consider the extent of the field, the (langers of navigation, the numerous savage and hostile triles, the semi-civilized nations so rapidlly rising into existence, the great nulmbler of islands frequentedl b) American shipping, the nulmber of seamen, ships, amount of property all embraced within its limits, we find that a niuch larger force could be profitably employed. * * * The attention of the American government cannot be too often or too forcibly directed towarls the i ncreasing interests of its citizens in the North Pacific." Conmmodore Dlownes, cotmllanding the United States Frigate Potomac, whiich ma(le a worl(l cruise, stol)ping at Honolulu about 1832, also foresaw Honolulu as an important base in the far future, and (lilate(l at length on the possibilities of Honolulu,as a naval base, a l)lace for outfitting and repairing ships, to care for those crippled by storms or war, and, in effect, appeared to urge an American foothold in the Islands, without so expressing himself directly. AMEI:RICAN \VA\RSHIPS ON (;GUARD) 29/7 Sugar, however, was one of the later incentives toward the t nite(l States acquiring a foothold ill -lawaii il 1876. While American residents urge(l the annexation of the Islands to the United States as far back as the early 'fifties, and later urged the signing of a reciprocity trale treaty, America was negligent of this opportunity until alout 1870, when a steamship line was established between San Francisco and Australia, via Honolulu. Sugar planters in -lawaii saw a p)rofitable market for their crops in Australia, which would mean the establishment of trade relations with B'ritish colonies, and leave America 'flat." F1rom 1870 to 1876 the recilprccity treaty i(lea gathered momentu.m. King Kalakaua visited the [nlited States, and in 1875 stood oii the floor of Conlgress and l)ersonally advocated the passage of such a treaty, which carried with it a provision for cession of the use of Pearl -[arbor as a coaling base.,War again 1lrougiht forth the necessity of even closer relations between the tnite(l States an(l Hlawaii, when in 1898, D'ewev's victory at ITanila demanded the presence of American troops andl lluejackets to conll)lete the conlluest of tle Phililppines, for 1-Honolulu sulddeilyv loomed as the most important port in the Pacific, realizing' the prophlecy of Commod(lore D)ownes. Annexation was hastened and in a few weeks, on July 6, 1898, Conogress l)assed the Joint Resolution of Annexation anld Ilawaii's lestiny was fulfilled, but it was always the navy that had the guiding llanld. l'y way of oddity, the tiny white gunlboat Pctrel was the first Ailerican warship to alchor in learl l Harlbor, this event occurrig ill 1903. In tie 'forties of last centutry, Rolert C. Wvllie, minister of foreign affairs, endeavored to indicate the risilng importance of ltawaii to the tUl-ited States. Ill one of his rel)orts appears a colmplete list of all warshilps that had visitedl Hawaii since the arrival of the missionaries. Prior to that timie, while some of the government ships visitinlg the Islha(ls carried guilns alnd were commalnde(d often by inaval officers, they were plrincipallvy vessels of discovery, on exl)loring expedlitiolls. with gro(ups of scientists UNI)DER tIA\VAIIAN SKIES aboard. Iollowing 1820, the year of the arrival of the missionaries, the first actual warship to visit HIonolulu was the British ship Ilolide, commland(e(d by Lord B:yron, which brought back fromll TEnglalnd the bodies of Kanehlamehla II and Queen Kamalmall. American warships visiting Honolulu were: 1814, U. S. S. Sir,illdrecw t laitmowld, (captured merchantman froml Brit.; auxiliary.) 1826, January 14, U.. S. I)olphlil (schooner). 1826, (ctober 11, U.. S..Peacock. 18 ), (October 13, TU. S. S. IVTiccn1lcs. 1832, July 22, U. S. S. Potoimtc. 1836, September 6, T.. S. S. lEnterprise. 1836, September 7, U. S. S. Pcacock. 1839, ()ctober 10, U7. S. S. Coliunbia. 1839, October 10, UT. S. S. Johnz AdaIl(s. 1840, Sei)tember 19, U.. S. P. Flying Fish. 1840, Septembler 24, U. S. S. 1Viuccnncs. 1840, Septelmber 30, U. S. S. Peacock. 1840, ()ctober 7, T. S. S. Porpoisc (schooner). 1841, 'larch 81, T. S. S. 1 illlen s. 1841, iMarch 24, [. S.. SPorpoise. 1841, April 6, U. S. S. St. Lois. 1841, June 14, U. S. S. Flyiln Fish. 1841, June 16, U. S. S. Pac-ock. 1841, ()ctoler 9, U. S. S. Yorktow(n. 1841, November 17, U. S. S. Viucennclls. 1841, Novelmber 17, U. S. S. Porpoise. 1841, November 17, [U. S. S. Ilyvinr Fish. 1841. Novetmber 18, 1U. S. B'rig Or(,egon. 1842. Iecembller 4, U. S. S. United States. 1843, leblruary 13, IU. S. S. Bostotn. 1843, july 6, U. S. S. Conlstellation. 1843, A\ugust 3, U. S. S Uited States. 1843. Septemnbcr 4, U.S. S.. C'anec (ship). 1845, Novemlber 16, U. S. S. Constitutioln. 1846, March, i. S. S. Cyante. AMERICAN WARSHIPS o.N GUARD 29 299 And then down the dlecades came other vessels of formidable, historic names; VIFdalia, prominent at HTonolulu in the 'fifties, (lue to the rumor of a filibustering party sailing on the bark Gaene Cock fromi San Francisco to Hoinolulu, and of the possibility of annexation of Hawaii to the Utnited States, tlhel lehiog urged, the king even acquiescing. The Civil War came in the 'sixties. 'the whalingo fleet was practically wiped out by the Confederate pirate man-o -war Shciunauidoah. The whaling industry peteredl out andl with it the revenues of the Hawaiian kingdomi necessitatingic a quick shift to another industry-sugfar, which, with the passage of the Reciprocity Treaty in the 'seventies, brcught a return of plrosperity which has steadily increased until now Hawaii is approaching a time when her sugar exports alone miiay mount to $1001,000oo~o.00. America is vigilantly on guard in the P'acific. Pearl Harbor naval station, the outgrowth of the cedledl harbor as a coaling base, is now considered the most strategic nlaval base ulllter the American flag. With the adlvent of the missionaries, American whalers in the followingT year, the interests of the LUnited States were dlestine(l to take first place; and from that time on the Uniiited States navy figures in Hawaiian events with coinstantly iiicrieasing frequency and importance as the character of the former uncivilized islands rose to that of a civilized nation with high (lillomiatic andI con-,ular officers accrelitedl from wheat is now "our" country. The visit of the Dolpmin in 1826, which resultedl in a courtmiartial for Lieutenant Percival, her commander ', because of (listurbances, ashore by his men, and his own arroorant attitude ini opjposition to the protests of the missionaries, was followed in the same year by- that of the historic Peacock, ocnmniiandedl by Capt. Thomas al). Catesby Jonies, a name well known in nlaval annals. Jones was called upon to lperform the first of the conlsi(leralble dilplomatic wvork of naval commandlers resultinfg from condlitions in the Hawaiian Islanids, the (ifficulty of conlnunica 300 300 ~~UNDl-'R 1-AWAVz-IIAN SKIES tion, and the lack of any wvell dlefinedl policy regarding the I'sland~s on the part of the worldl's greatest nations. A 1101-reformi faction, led by Richard Charlton, the consular rellresentative of G;reat Britain, immediately began 'to prod the native gYovernulent, keeping it in "ihot water" continually for nearly twenty-five years, until hie was finally conlpelledl to leave, (lisgracedl, having- assailed the character of tile missionaries. The laetter chialleng'ed investigation, buit at a Ipublic meeting presiledl over 1w ('Caltail jones those uipon wilon (levolvedl tile duty of eilterilng charges with sustainling evidence, refused to do so. J onIs settle(l Ilanyl mlaritimie (lifhiculties and concluded the first commercial treaty between the Hawaiian Government and any forelgign power. To a lprotest by M-r. Charlton, who was regarded by tile Ailericalls as the 'notorious Mr. Charlton," that the Islanders had 110 Iower to Ilake treaties, Captain Jonles replied that the latter's com-rmission. as British Consul recognized Hawaiian iI1(epelldellce. \/erv simiiar to the foreg-oing, were the visits by tile Vincennes ill 1829, tile Potoniac in 1832, the Peacock anld lEnterprise in 18;3, a~l he ohn idas il 139', the last nlamedl being- Ilade notablie by reason of Commodlore Read, as umpire, settling some claims arising otit of the case of the schooner Clementine., ill whliclh was involved the cn111roglio over the F9rencll consul and the Cathlolic. lriests. lui 1840, the Vinenes Peacock, Popise nlFyn ih colll{risillg the smuadron collllallded by Captain Wilkes, U.. S. N., wvliclh wvas 011 a cruise for scientific exploration, arrivedl in the Island~s. TIheir stay inlcludedl a visit to tile sumnilit of Manna Loa, oil tile island~ of I laxvaii, xvlere IPelldulunl Camp was established~, atld where mianyvInotabl e figures of elevation, etc., were recorded. TIheir visit to Haxvaii proved of g,)reat value- iot only to the Islallds but to science. 111 1843, tile 01(1 sailing- warsihip Boston, lrotectedi Ailerican interests aild refugoees (lurilig tile events resuiltingy in tile enforced lprovisioual cession of the Htawaiian Islallds to Great Britain 011 llrav2,5, tllrongllh Lord (Georgre Pauilet, conlilland~infg H1. B. AMERICAN \VA/RSHI-PS ON GUARD 30 301 M. 's ship Carvs fort. On jJuly 6 of that year Commodore Kearniey arrivedl in the 01(1 and famous U. S. S. Constcllatioln, and onl the 11, enteredl a protest against the cession and saluted, under the H~awaiian flagy, Governor Keknianaoa, and also the youngr chiefs when they visited the ship, therehy iniform-ingi the British comman(ler that hie continuedl to recognize the indlependence of the Hawaiian kingodom undler its own rulers. The resulting tension was greatly relieved when., onl july 31, I-awvaiian sovereignlty was restore(l hby the Engolish admiral, Thomas (after whom Thomas Square is niamed ) who hadl arrived a few days ipreviouis inl his flag)ship, the JDublini, from Vallparaiso. 'Shortly afterwardl, the Uj. S. S. Unimted.,St(1t(s and the C b~i rought the good news of the recognition of Hawaiian indlependleice hy several European nations. The:\mericain comlmissioner havingo cauisedl an unfortunate state of affairs for the Hawaiian Governmenit, hie Vand the consul were superseded hy new officers wlho arrivedl in the U. S. S. Con01 rCSS in 1846. In thec 'fifties, the U. S. S. Uniutcd Statcs, the Vandallia andl othier men-of-war lent their assistanice to the, H1awaiian Governmenit in preserving- the neutrality of the United States when Ihle filihusteriing exlpedition was orgaiiizedl at San Francisco with a view of sailing to Honolulu andl capturing the -Island(s and annexing, them to the U~nited States or setting uip a repuhlic. The Civil War was hrought vividIly to the attention of the lpeolle in Hawaii wvhen the Confedlerate cruiser Shecnanidoah., unl(Icr talptain V/ka(ldell, ravagxed the Pacific oceani, (lestroying al1]ost the entire American whaling fleet, even (lestroying vessels heloningilo to Ilawaiian residlents and flying the THawvaiian flak. On)le of the latter was the, hark Ilar-i'cst, which was captured anld hurnied in thie harhor of Ascension islandl. A claim still rests ag-ainst the governmient of G-reat Britain by the heirs of J. I. Doxvsett, one of the owners. Quieen Elmma left IHonioluilu Iin 1.865 eni ronite to Englclandl where she was cordliallv received (1ly Queen Victoria as the gu-Lest of the nation. She sailed oni the Pritish cruiser Clio and returnedl oni the U. S. S. Vanderbilt. 302 302 ~UNT)ER H4AWAIIAN SKIES Tmmedliately the election of David Kalakatia as kinco of EHa wan wvas announcedl from the old court house on Quieen street on February 12 1874. The, followers of Queen Emima, an asirant to thbhoe it~,lesiegred the court house, broke into it, andl manhandlled the legislators, claimiing that Kalakana had wvon the election by bribery. H.L A. Peirce, the American minister, sensing the possilbility of a riot, had asked Admiral 1 elknap to standl by with his warships the Tuiscarora and Portsmouth, the latter commanded l.y Commodore Skerrit. The call Was Sent to the hastrbo —r andl bluejackets andl marines were sent into towni at once, one (letachmient oguardino Queen Em's hiome and the other the couirthouise. King- Kalakaua was sworn into office the following (lay undler the protection of American forces. Late ]in 1874, in. November, 1IJing- Kalakatia embarked onl the 17. -5 S. Bent-cia, accomipanied Vy the United States minister and others, for San FUrancisco, havingo been extendled anl invitation by the American government to (10 s0. H —e visitedl Washingtlon aIs the guiest of the nation and returned to, Honolulu, February 15, 1875. on the UV. S. S. Pensacola. It Was while on a visit to San Francisco, in IDecember,180 that King I\-alakatia, who had been ill, was g-iven the last national honors. Flie became ill inl California and (lied at the P'alace H otel. San Francisco, January 20, 1891. His remains were brought back to Honolulu on the cruiser Charleston. Bletwveen the beginning- and the end of the reign of Kalakana, Honoluilu wvas a favorite lplace of call for American warships. America wvas at peace with tile wvorld. It was always the olelight of midldies to be assi-lledl to duty with a warship assig-ned to the P)acific station and to call at Honolulu. It was always a continuial rouind of festivities. The palace was gay and there were danc'es amnd receptions, Inauis andl bathingy parties. Honolulu's hospitalitv wvas ninboindled. It was the periodl when many wooden-walled warships called-Lackezawana, Tuscarora, Mlo/icanl, Adamis, NiPsic, V'7aclhnsctts, Vandalia. AMERI CAN WARSI-1HIPS U —N GUARD 30 303 In 1893 Queen Liliniokalani was dethironed and a repuibliIC established. The Boston, was iii 1lonoluin harbor that Januiary, 1893, and land~ed marines andl bluejackets to p~rotect property. Before the Civil W~ar, naval supplies andi coal lhadl been storedi at Hloiolulu by the United States gYovernment, sometimies in charg-e of officers, and in 1898 the H-onolulu naval station wvas practically oIpenedl when the Spanish War (irew 1-hawali into the lighlt of diplomacy. and the -islands were aunexe(1 to the Unitedl States on July 6, 1898, the Hawaiian flag) lowered here on August 12 andl the Americ-an flagf raisedl over the g-overnmenit house. The Philudclphia was present in 1895 at the tiiie of the revolution andl (luring the abortive attemp~t to restore the queeni. The Charlcston pahssedl through Hon1molulni in June, 18:98, conlvoyingu a fleet of translports en rouite to MXanila. She was g-iven a cordlial recelition an(l on that occasion was lpresented byT Otneen hDowagTer Kapiolani, widow of King Kalakatia, with a beautiful siken Hawaaiia flag- and two polished calahashes, a token of her reg-ard for the Charles/ani which had broughlt her husband's b.ody back fromt California. From the tim-e the naval station was established on AlMlel1 street, Honioluilu. the Hawvaiian Islanids have been a part aunl parcel of the United States. WVarships heave come here in increasinig mnumbers, 1Pearl Harbor Naval Statio was (levelolpedl sinice 1900, practically out of a series of water lochs, barreni coral stretches and a long-, tortuous clhailiel that had to be leelpenied anld widened, anid then Iin 1903 the little gunmboat IPetrel anichored in the harbor. in 1911, on the comi-pletion of the channel the flagship California' made her formal enitry into Pearl IHarbor. W~ith the intimate knowledge of~ Havi gaiiiedl 1y naval coinnlai](lers since 1826 it is not stlrprisii~g thait Pearl H arbor shouill haive beeni developedl as a naval lbase. (CHAPTER XVIII EMAISSAtRIEIS () PE'()T' SC()UT ISLANDS RELIGIO()US 1EEiIDO)(M EIVENTUALIY (;RANTED HIIl qulestionl of just whllich sect first p)lanted the seeds of the Christial religioll ill tie:-awaiian Islands has never Ileell (lefinitely settled, althouglh to the evangelical missionaries of New Zealan(l is generally concede(l the palm. It is also quite certail that Church of Eilnland men visited the Islanls in the time of Kamehameha the (Great, and( a Church of E1ngland chaplainl wa(s with Kamehameha in 1793 or 1794, andl that actually, in 1819, a year b)efore the New 1England miissionaries arrived. the chaplail of tlle French corvette L' Urania, M. Frevcinet, command(ler, anchored:at Kawaihae, anld afterwards visited Il:onolulu. I)uring- the stay of the 1.'Ur(ania at the Islands, the chal)lain, M. l'Able (le (O)elin, administere(l the rite of bap)tism to two of tile lli' ciefs I-Kalanimoku al(l 11is l)rotlher Boki. But there \\was nlo (llcertaintv as to thle points of friction. The establishmlelt, a few years later, of the Cathiolic church, was ol)l)ose(l. l'lle Ilaaiia l g()vernment, which was a contilnuance of tile old fed(lal system, templereld ) civilized law usages, and condlucted almost entirely ib tile kinl an(l the Council of Chliefs, withi feudal rigilts, officially opplosed tlie landing of Catholic lriests, and olticially, ordered them to (lel)art. Tllis attitu(le was severely criticized in 1832 lv Commodore Jllohn D)ownes. United States. commanding tle U. S. Frigate Potomac, when that shipl, anchoring off \\aikiki, remained here so that tlie comlmanil(le coltdl give to tile ling a message of encouragelment froml tlie PIresdlent of tle United States. Collmo(ldore I)ownes' iml)ressiolns were la(le lpullic in a book entitledl "Rev'yollds Voyage Around the \\orld(," consi(lered an official statelmlelt of tlie entire cruise. C(ollllentill ol llis investigatiols, lie relmarkel: RELIGIOUS FREEDOM GRANTED 305 "Sometime before the arrival of the Potomac, a few Spanish missionaries of the Catholic faith came from the coast of California (1827) with a view of establishing a school and church for the benefit of the heathen Islan(lers. They were men of learningl, and agreeable manners andl conversation; and, in all their acts and behavior, appeared sincerely pious. They brought with them funds enough to raise suitalle houses, and soon learned the lan-,guage so as to converse with the natives. "Pleased with their manners an(l instructions, tle natives came ill numbers to be taught by them; so that the school andl )lace of worship be)egan to be crowdled. Thley followed tle same course of instruction, in some d(egree, laid down by tile American missionaries, andl never attempted to draw the natives to themselves, except by amiable and kind deportment. Indeed, they were exemplary in all their actions. But their success was too g'reat, and they were ordered to discontinue their wrorshilp. At first they refused, and informedl tlhe authorities tllat theirs was also the worship of the same God with tlhe American missionaries-the forms alone were (lifferenlt. 1But all tllis was of llO avail. The natives were forced from their houses of worshi) 1v native solliers, ordere(l by authority." Commodore D)ownes goes on to say that "tlings became serious. The Catholic missionaries were ordered to depart, and "finally were compelled, with threats of violence, to leave their labors and the islandl, and go on board a little rickety vessel, belonging to one of the chiefs, in lwhich they were conveyed to the coast of California, and there inlumailly set on shore, ill a barren spot, and distant from any settlement." Tlie commold(lore states that at tle tilie of tlhe Potol(mac's arrival at Oahu. some forty natives (men, women and chil(lren) were confiledl at hard labor on a coral wall \lwhichl was tlhen erectilng, of several miles in extent, in tlie country, an(l were not allo\Tedl o1 visit tlhe town ( Honolulu). "And this punishment was inflicted because they were Catholics," the account continues, "andl would not change tleir religion for tlat of tlhe missionaries of the island." ,306, 30 UNDI)I IIANVAIIAN SKIES At the conference between the king, the authorities and Comnmodlore IDowNes, this subject was introduced, "when the Commodore, in a mild, thoug i (lecisive tone, explained to the chiefs and queen regent, that in England, in the United States, and ot]er cointries, persons were not punishedl for their religious opinions; that the Catholic countries might not view with inldiffereiice such cruel treatment of Catholics; that a hitter spirit of persecutioi \\-as not sanctioned in any,- enlightened country, and oug1-l1t at 01 ce to be abolishel. "There were few present at this interestingr conference who will soon forget the alpparent reluctance vith whichi Mlr. Bingham, head of the mission (American), interpreted this liberal and truly Christian adlvice; and that, in apparent justification of the authorities he instanced Spain as a country that would not admit of toleration. The Commodlore's remarks seemedl to Ibreak, like newv light, upon the mindls of the chiefs and the release of the unhappy sufferers for 'conscience sake' followed inmediatelv afterward. The missionaries say they had no hand in this matter." IHowever, Comnimodore Downes wras not sp)aring in his praise for the Americanis, particularly the missionaries, who had established American principles in 1H1-awaii. (wiviug to what he considlered an "unhappy state of affairs'' in Jawaii the Commnniodore thought sensihly of the necessity for the American government placino a colsulsar ag-ent on (tluty in Honolulu, on a salary which slloutll render him inclependent of tradle. IFromt Cattholic sources the following" pages tlescrihe the establishment of the Catholic religion in Hawaii Oni the 7th of July, 1827, the first Roman Catholic missionaries arrivedl at Honolulu, from Bordeaux, in the French ship Conict. Th'e nlission consistedl of John Alexius, Augustin Bachelot, wtiho bad ieen constituted Apostolic Prefect of the San-dwich Islands, Rev. Father Abrahamn Armand and Rev. Father -Patrick Short. hIlie first twvo were natives of France and the latter of Ireland. All three were memnbers of the Cong-reg-ation of the Sacred I-Hearts of Jesuis and Mary', called also the Society of Picpus, fromi the name of the street in -Paris on wN-hich, the mother-house is situated. RELIGIOUS F__PREElIlUDOM.I GRANT-ED 30 307 They had beei sent by Pope Leo XII. They were accompanied by several laymen. After they were landed from the ship, an orler was issned for the captain to take them on board again, as they had been landed withont permission. This order he wouldl not execute and sailed away, leaving- the missionaries behind. Although thle clergy hadl not received formal permission to remain on the Islands, they were not moleste(l nor interrnpted Iby the chiefs for some time. The first temporary chapel, a snmall thatched boilding, was opened early in Jannary, 1828. In 1829, after the (leparture of B3oki on the expedition from which lhe never returned, Kaahum-nanni, the Regent, retnrned to Honolulu, and her attention was attracted to the growNlth of the Catholic faith amiongy her peolple. She gave strict orders to the priests to close their chapel, and comimanded the people, onl pain of pinnishmnent, to forsak1e the new relioioi,_. Persecution followed with snich zeal, that accordlinge to Rev. Sheldon Dibble, the American missionary, the New Entiglaiid missionaries ilnterceledl Cand secnre(l the liberation of mcaiv wvho hadl been harshly pinnished by imprisonment some from shackles. Because of the untiring efforts of the American miissioniaries to sl)read the gospel, the legend has arisen that they were at thle bottom of the lpersecntioii of the Catholics, bnt open-mindel investigators state positiv-elye that the chiefs acted nipon their ancient principle which was that (disolb)edhience to their orders as to any conrse of coidnuct, whether p)ertainiiing to things tcnmporad or spiritual, was simiply rebellion. They had no idlea of toleration. The fenidal systemi was not altogrether a thing of tile lpast in that periodl. In April, 1831, the chiiefs, after having on several occasions requestedl the lpriests to dlepart, convened in conncil aiid issuedl a formal order in writilli to that effect. IBnt in the latter part of that year, the lriests not vet having acted on the order, fitted out the brig U11'7i'a-crlcy, and put her unnler command of Capt. William S1nmner, and in l)ecemiber, 1831, the missionaries; having been pnt on board, the brig sailed for California, where she arrivedl safelyN, and the missionaries were landed. 308 308 ~~UN DIER IIAN,\VAIfIAN SKIES The followving year came the visit of Commodore Downes and his intercession for those still tindero-oiiio(y punishimenut for their religious lbeliefs. All were releasedl andl for several years thiere were no relpetitions of this m-ode of punishmient. But in 1836. more l)Crsecntitins were inflicted, some of a very severe nature, on the Cathiolic Iproselytes-, females as well as males. In 1839, r.Richiards, formerly a Protestant missionary, having left the 1fl1si100 anel l)ecome a teacher andl adviser of the king- and chiefs, there sooni appeared a change in this intolerant policy, it is said, thromgh his inistructions. On the 17th of June of that year, ordlers were lssnedl hy the k.-ing that punishments for worshipping after the fornis of the R~oman Catholic faith should cease, and thiose then in confinement should he releasedl. After the promulgal 1ion of the order p~ersecultioJn ceasedl. On the 30th of Septemher, 1836, the Rev. Ro1)ertL Walsh, a Catholic Ipriest, arrived at IMonioluln from Valparaiso, in the hrig (;arafilla. Kaahumnanu heing, (leadl. Kina, a (latighlter of Kameihameha [1 was then prenmier of the kingodom, and groverness of Oahu, under the title of Ilaahuimanu I L ShIie forhadle lathecr Walsh renmaining o!l the Islamls', hecause the former lpriests llad lbeen sent awvay. The inoli'dh consuil claimled that F_,athier Walsh, heing, a B1rit dsh suhject, was under his lprotection, aIRI muitst he allowved a residence. I1 Fe remained hut wvas forhiddlen to preachi. Api-ril 17, 1837., Rev. 'Father Bachielot and farther Short, who had heen senit away several years hefore, returned to the Islands ini the hrig- c lmc~itlioc. Thiev kmaded at once, hut were ordlered to return immedliatelv on hoard. A~s they (lidl not (10 so, a positive ordler was issnedl 1W the kinio to haive them put on hoard. This xvas done, wvhereuponi the owner of the hrig, M~r. Dudoit, relpairedl on hoard (-and hauiled down his flag. Thils hie carriedl to R~ichard Charltoni, the 13ri+ish conisul, wvlo puhlicly hurned- it, while Al r. 1Dudoit made a formial lprotest against the Governnalent claiming dmiages to the amouint of $000frtefri ble seizuire of his Vessel. M~eanwhlile t~he lpriests remained on ho~ard. in the same vear there arrivedl froni 1-France the Rev. Louis Ma/.-igret, who afterwards hecamie [Bishop anrd first Vicar R:I I I(I)LUS FRElD(OM GRANTED 309 Apostolic of the San(lwich Island(ls. le was not permitte(l to land hut was obliged to leave the country together with Flather Bachelot, who was in very feeble health. The latter died at sea shortly after, on l)ecember 5, 1837, and is considered byv the Catholics as a martyr to religious persecution. 1-e was buried on a small island called Ponape, or Ascension islan(l, one of the Caroline group. In the year 1839 the French governmeilt l t Ut an end to the relig'ious difficulties. On July 9, the twelfth anniversary of tie arrival of the first Catholic missionaries, tile French frigate l'iArflisc, carrying sixty guns, C. Laplace, commander, arrive(l off the port of Honolulu. A few hours after arriving, the commander (lespatched one of his officers to present to the king the following summary requests, a manifesto in effect: First: That the Calholic religion be declarel free, througlout all the dloinions of the kingc of the Sandlwich Islands; that the members of this religious faith shall enjoy in them all the principles granted to Protestants; Second: That all Catholics imprisone(l on account of tlleir religion be set at liberty; Third: That the Government give a suitalle site at HIonolulu for a Catholic church; Fourthl That the king place withl tle captain of l'/Artlcise the sum of $20,000, as a guarantee of his future conduct towarls France, and of his (ood faith and will, to be restore(l when tlhe Frencll g-overnment shall be satisfied that the Treaty (submitted with the manifesto) has been complied with; Fiftlh That the Treaty iwhen signe(l be conveyed on board by a high chief of the country; and that salutes ble excllanged between the shore and the ship. In case the (leand(ls were not complied wtith and the Treaty promptly signed and delivered, hostilities were to commence within forty-eight hours, or three (ays at the outside. The American consul received a copy of the manifesto as delivered to the French representative ashore. The kin1g being alsent on the island of Maui, the chiefs were in great perplexity, but at length the premier, in the name of the king, signed the Treaty, which, with A oliew tf Honolulu in 1857 taken by Dr. Hugo Stalgeniwald fronm the steeple of Kawaiahao Church, lookim t owarld tihe old lroal palne (left, middle distanee with flag flying in front fromn flagpole.) Il the left fol'egound is a smlall khouse with sloping roof. This was the original royal RFI7LI(A1OUS FRLEIXI(_)M~ (RAWIiNTVIF31 311 $20,000 was carried on lboardi l'rtctnisc, iy Governor Kektianaoa. Peace was conciluded, and never afterwards wvere religions (hfficuities revived, In 1846 tile trench admiral, tiamlin, on tile Viymbrought hack tile money andl restored it to the government in tile same p)ackages lin which it was tAken away, and witih the- seals unbroken. In May, 1840, tile Clcui n t-W arrived from Valparaiso, bringing Ml. i\Iaig~ret, then the Bishop of Nilopolis, and two priests. From tilis dlate the Roman Catholic religion may lbe considered as hiavingy been firmly and permanently established oil the Islandcs. Thie Ipriests, who were all men of learninig, eiite red at once with gTreat zeal up~on tileir (luties, and~ wvithi marked success. A stonle cathedral wvas immiediately commeincedl at Hionoilulu. Ill tllat yvear arrivedl Righlt Rev. Rouiclionse, first Vicar Apostolic of Oriental Oceania, app~ointed to tilis office ill 1838, and havingjurisdliction not only of Hawaii but of Tahiti, Marquesas antid othler Polyniesian islands. latiler TI\'laigret was in this company. Ground wvas broken on luly 9, 1840, for- tile Cathedral of Our Lady of Peace. On tile same (lay 2'80 catechumens received lbaitisil aiid coinfirmlation. In Jjanuary, 1,841, Bisllop Rouichouse returned to F1rance ill search of laborers and resources for his mission01. Ilie was successful in obtaininlg a nunliber of priests and sisters of tile Congregation of tile Sacred Hearts. Tlley left France lil 1843 with a cargo of supllhies Onl the scilooler I'onolitli, owniedl by tile mission, lbnt nnfortunately tile vessel was lost witil all oil boardl, inot oneC personl snrvivmgl to tell tile tale. On Auguist 15i, 1843, the niewly filisiled cathedral was solemlllv dedicated and 800 persons received Holy Communion. About this time Oriental Oceania was divided into three Apostolic \~icariates-Tlahiti, MAarquesas and '-Sandwich Islands. On luily 1 1, 1_847, Pope Pinis IX nonminated the thien Prefect of thle Mlission, the Very Rev. L-ouis Maigret, Vicar Apostolic, to succeedl B.isliop Roucilouse, and take cliarge of tile Saildwich Islands Mli s ion, as a seIparate Vicarate. Froml tiis time oin tile Mission made slow but stea(l progress and is- now at lpowerful religious asset to the Territr ofHawNaii. ,312 312 ~~UNDE HANV1-2-AItIAN SKIES In 1859, the Sisters of the Sacred Hearts arrived at HonoIlilu to take charge of a boarding and day school. Since then Frenich and Belgian Sisters have come as needed for their many educational institutions in the Islands. B'esidles the vork of education, the Catholic Mission has had an1 implortant share in the care of the lepers, particularly at the Leper Settlement at Kalaupapa, Molokai islanl. In ordler to check the spread of the (lisease the governm-nent esta1lished an isolation settlement at lalaulpapa, with a small village, named Kalawao, a few miles beyond, but also on the coast line. 1)uringy the first years of the enforcement of segregation the situation of the lepers was physically antl morally wretched, although thiey received their rations from the governmient. Then it was that Fecather Da~miien, in 1873, volunteered to share with them exile, poverty and suffering in orler to console and hielp) them. After thirteen years spent in the settlement he became a leper, antl the heroic fortitude aiid self-denial he had shown in the p)ast wvas again shown by his acceptance, wvith the greatest couraage anil resignation, of the new cross he had to bear. His (leath occurredl on April 15, 1889. The Catholic Mission has conltintiuall maintained several priests at the Settlement. There is a ITome for Boys in charoge of the Brothers of the Sacred H-earts, andl a [Tome for Girls in chiargye of the Sisters of St. Franicis. Th'le latter sisters also hiave chargye of an orphanage for girls of leprouis latients, at Kalihi, near 1loniolultn. B1ishop Maigl-ret was succeetledl in 1882 by Bishop Hernmann R7 occkevnanniiii. ntler whiose adlministration the MXission received a considerabl1e increase byv the im,1migr'-at ion of Portugouese fromt the A'\zores inmported as laborers for the sugioar plantations. in 1892, Bishop I'[ermaiun dicd, and Biih;opo Gulstan F. Ropert succeeded himi. Ile liedl in 1902. Rig-ht Reverend Lihert Hubert Ilocvniaems was his successor. Iin 1924, Father Stephen Alencastre. the first priest of island orig-in to be ordained, vas created Bishiop Coadljutor, with the title of Bishop of Arabissus, to serve with Bishop L,ihert, owing to the latter's physical (lisability. RELIGIOUS FREEDO.M (G-RANTED 313 Bishop Libert died in MIay, 1926, and was succeeded by Bishop Stephen. Of deep interest to all Catholics in Hawaii, to all lovers of antiques, is the old clock and bells in the tower of the Catholic cathelral in Honolulu. It was made by a French clockmaker in Paris in 1825, and was first sent to Valparaiso and set up in the great cathedral of that city. In the early eighteen-'forties, when a cathedral was erected in Honolulu the local bishop sent to Paris for a clock and bells. The head of the religious order sent a fine set to Honolulu, by way of Valparaiso. At the latter city the bishop decided that the new set would be fine for his cathedral, and the old one of 1825 was removed, boxed and sent on to Honolulu where it was installed in the early 'fifties. However, the century-old clockwork is still as steady as the (lay it was finished, and every hour, every quarter hour is recorded in bell strokes. The absence of the bell strokes, on occasions, has caused residents of the neighborhood to make inquiries as to the clock, fearing that the bells might have been discontinued. 13 CHAPTER XIX FRENCH AND ENGLISH AGGRESSIONS AMERICAN MISSIONARIES NOT TO BLAME N THIS chapter is revealed the new and hitherto unpublished version of the famous incident of the seizure of the Hawaiian Islands by the English in 1843, when Lord George Paulet, arriving in the British frigate Carysfort, landed troops in Honolulu, hauled down the Hawaiian flag and raised that of England, and for five months administered the affairs of Hawaii as though it were a British colony. Data secured from Lord George Paulet's official reports, and from other documents which have been on secret file in the British Admiralty for more than eighty years, and now given publicity for the first time, through the pages of this book, show that Lord George, while he was personally arrogant and inclined to favor many of the trumped-up charges of Consul Charlton against the government and individual officials, was really acting to prevent Hawaii from falling into the hands of France, and when that threat was nullified by England's drastic course, Great ]Britain, true to her promise, hauled down her own flag, restored that of the kingdom, and once more proclaimed her belief in an in(lepenllet HIawaiian kingdom. It is well to trace the causes leading to the rivalry between France and England, with H-awaii a helpless pawn in the struggle of two great Powers to create for their governments complete domination of the Pacific. All the while, however, both European nations were aware that the United States goverlnment kept its eye upon Iawaii, and was even prepared to prevent eitler France or EMngland from actually acquiring sovereign rights in Hawaii. But, even the United States government did not, for years, at least, or if ever, become aware of the real object FRENCH AND ENGLISH AGGRESSIONS 315 of England's sudden seizure of the Islands. In the Honolulu Polynesian, May 27, 1848, appeared the following: "We clip the following extract from an old file of the New York Tribune. It shows the feelings and views entertained by the American Government at the time of the seizure of the Islands by Lord George Paulet. It is believed that the same views respecting the independence of the Hawaiian Islands are still entertained by the Cabinet at Washington. The emphatic passage extracted from Mr. Webster's letter in reply to the application of the King's Commissioners for a formal recognition of Hawaiian independence, and the subsequent remarks of the President in his Annual Message, may serve to quiet tle nerves of those whose keen perceptions are constantly conjuring up visions of seizures, protectorates and annexations. "'TIHE SANDWICH ISLANDS.-The course which the government of the United States will take with regard to the recent seizure of the Sandwich Islands by the British is a subject of no little interest and speculation. That it recognizes the importance of the Islands maintaining the position and character of an independent nation, is clearly shown by recent official documents. Our relations with them have depended entirely upon our informal agreement, concluded with them in 1826 by T. ap. Catesby Jones, then commander of the United States sloop Peacock. This has never been ratified by our government, but has continued in silent operation, having been faithfully adhered to on both sides. During the last year, Messrs. Richards and Haalilio applied to our government for its formal acknowledgment of the independence of the Islands. They stated that the al)pointment of consuls and commlercial agents, both in Europe and the United States, was regarded as a tacit recognition of their independence, but that the King thought a more formal acknowledgment essential to the honor and interests of his kingdlonm. To this letter MIr. Webster, under (late of December 14, 1842, replied in a letter from which the following emlphatic passage is an extract: "'The United States have regarded the existing authorities of the Sandwich Islands as a government suited to the condition of 316 316 ~UNDE-,R HAWVAIIAN SKIES the people, and resting- onl their owvn choice, andl the Presidenit is of opinion that the interests of all the nations require that the g-overnmenit should iiot be interfered with by foreign powers. Of the vessels which visit the 'Islands, it is known that a great majority belong- to the United States. The United States, therefore, are more interested in tile fate of those Islands an(1 of their g'overnllmeilt, than any other ilation canl be, and this consideration induhces tile President to be quite willing to declare, as the sense of tile g-overililent of tile United. States, that the gyovernment ongiIlit to ibe respected; tllat 110 power ought either to take possessioll of tile Islands as a conquest, or for the pur-pose of colollizatioll; and that 110 power ought to seek for any undue control over tile existing Governn-lent, or any exclusive privileges or lpreferenlce ill Ilatters of colllnerce.'" I-le was fully sustainled in tile use of this digilified and decisive lang-uage iby tile followillg, passage in the Message of the Presideilt (iatedl IDecemlber 30, of which tile followino is an extract: "it is nearer to tilis coiltileilt, anld tile illtercourse wihicih Anlericall vessels ilave withl it-such vessels constitute five-sixtils of all wilicil annually visit it-could ilot but create dissatisfaction on tile lart of tile Uilited States at any attellpt by anlother flower, to take possession of tile Islands, colonize thenm, aild subvert tile native g-overnmenlt. Collsidierinlg, tilerefore, tilat the U~nited States possess so very large a sllare of thle intercourse with tihose Islands, it is deemed ilot unfit to miake tile declaration that their gYovernment seeks, levertileless, 110 exclusive cointrol over tile I-fawaiian government but is conteilt wvith its independeilt existellce, andl anxiously wishes for its security andl prosperity. Its forbearance in tilis respect. unlder the circunlstallces of the very large illtercourse of tileir citizells witil the Islands, would justify tllis gyoverilment, shloul(1 events hereafter arise to require it, in nmakinog a (leciledl reilonstrailce agailnst tile adoption of an opposite policy by any foreign Ilower., As thiis correspolldellce was to be officially made kllown~ to the groverimliits of tile prillcipal ilations of Europe, it must come ilefore tile Britisil goverlmlellt, anld ellter illto tileir calculatiolls FRENCH AND ENGLISH AG(GRESSIONS 317 concerning the occupation of the Islands. With regard to the recent seizure, a Washing-ton correspondent of the Philadelphia Evening Mercury writes: "A dispatch was received at the Departlnent of State, fromthe Sandwich Islandls, containing a formal and strong protest from their King against the late invasion of the British, addressed to all governments, inviting their interposition to check the illegal and grasping spirit of conquest which England of late years has adopted without respect to the amity of nations or (leference to the treaty stipulation which obligated her to a course entirely different. The protest is drawn up in an able and manly style, setting forth in the strongest and most proper terms the injuries inflicted by England, and appealing for mediation in such language as must induce a warm and decided expression of sentiment by other countries." It may be well also to present here, an extract from a letter dated at Washington, D. C., November 25, 1849, written by James Jackson Jarves, then Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary from Hawaii to the United States carrying out instructions to negotiate a treaty between the United States and Hawaii, and which was addressed to Robert Crichton Wyllie, Minister of Foreign Relations, at Honolulu, in which the real attitu(le of the United States towards Hawaii was outlined. It was a private letter to Mr. \Vyllie, containing the substance of an interview with Secretary of State Clayton. This letter has remained in the Archives of Hawaii until recently when the author discovered it. The letter, with its quaint abbreviations, disclosing some of the behind-the-door methods of diplomats, follows: "I red. a line from Mr. Clayton apologizing for not seeing me before, & requesting me to come on here & have an interview with him to dla-Si-undav, 25th. I did so, at 5-P.M.-& am happy to inform you of its favorable results. I gave him your letter & explained mv position. He replied, we have concluded to make a treaty with the Hawaiian Is.-here, out of deference to the King & to show our good wishes-As the King 318 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES lhad sent a Commissioner, he judged it was his desire to negotiate here [sic] than at Hlonolulu-concluded it could be b-est done-Said he, my time is so occupied that I am obliged as you see to work on Sunday-but this is an important matter, and I shall make time-Tomorrow is appointed for the preliminary steps &c & he tho't it would all le done in a few days-We talked over the French outrage-He expressed himself strongly-I said I had been directed to request the mediation of the PresidentH-e replied we shall not only mediate but remonstrate. The U. S. would not allow France, nor any other nation to take those Islands-The U. S. did not want them-But she, for her commnercial interests, must prevent them from falling into other hands-The King must be independent & be sustained-He tho't that England would do as the U. S. did, & as for France she must. "On the subject of France, lie was actually wcarlike & seemed to intimate that France would soon have enough to do Tcnar home -From his remarks, I judged that the diplomatic relations with that Country were far from satisfactory, & that the U. S. would not yield from her position. Indeed —with the U. S. the affair of Aug. 24th has been of wonderful service.-I think out of it, we shall obtain nlore than I could have otherwise hoped to have oltained also from ]Lnglandl —Mr. C. desired all the particulars -I could give him none beyond those of your Nov 17 & 20 -& the newspaper accts —l —Ie said Eames lhad been a loung while getting to the Is-& had instructions to negotiate a treaty, but that need not be a bar to one here-We could do better-Hoped Mr. Allen was a better man than the past consuls & commissioners who were always picking quarrels with the King's government-Said he should try him at all events-I recommended naking him Consul General with diplomatic powers, on the footing of Miller [English Consul]. He said, Mr. Allen would be placed on an equality with him. "I infer they intend a revision of the Consular system. I alvised against making a separate consulship at Lahaina, on the ground of creating dissensions &c & its being a mere appenage FRENCH AND ENGLISH AGGRESSIONS 319 of Honolulu-He coincided with me on this point. I explained to him the tenor of Dillon's [French Commnissioner] letter to Judd-& told him I had forwarded a printed copy through a friend to the Minister of Foreign Relations in Paris, to head off Dillon —Te was astonished at its barefaced impudence-I have also sent the Traveller containing the articles enclosed with this, prepared by me, to the Minister at Paris & the Reading Room, by last steamer-As it is probable Dillon will reach Paris before me, I wished to have his letter there before himMr. Clayton remarked that France had no comlmlercial intcrests of conlscqutence at stake at the Islands, zchrile the (U. S. had very large & she coulld 0ot hlav her comenerce fettered or jeopardised by another nation. The President, he sai(l, coincided with him in these views"I have written you thus roughly the results of this interview, which took place at his house-I will record in a similar manner all I learn here, that mlay interest the Government-I adopt this method as I know no clerk here, that I would like to trust, but will make out regular (ispatches when treaty &c, is complete(l. "I understand through a reliable source in Paris, that France intends giving up the Pacific islands in all 1851-It is possible she still covets lHawaii & is seeking a prctcrt to seirz —If so, she is too late —Mr. Clayton most emphatically reiterated to me, that the U. S. 7would never allowc it. "I spoke to him of the necessity of affording protection against any such expeditions as was recently got up to inlvade Cuba — This I think will be done." To return to the banishments of 1831, the beginning of French official action in Hawaii. In July, 1831, the Prussian ship Princcss Louisa arrived bringing presents to Kamehamneha III from the king of Prussia, including a portrait of himself, King Wilhelm and Field Marshal Blucher, together with an autograph letter, thanking the king for a beautiful feather cloak, which is now on view at the Berlin TTMuseum. The portraits are still on view in the palace at Honolulu. The captain was requested to take the priests away, but lie refused unless paid five thousand dol 320 320 ~UNDER HAWVAIIAN SKIES lars. Letters had been receive(l fromt the prefect of the Franciscan missions in California inviting the priests to come to their assistance. iAt lengoth the chiefs fitted out a vessel of their own, the brigy W~arrlcy, Captain Suimner, at an expense of $4,000, and issued a proclamation on December 7, 1831, stating their reasons for taking the course. Accordinigly, Messrs. IBachelot and Short sailed December 24 and landed at San Pedro, California, January 28, 1832, where they wvere welcomied hy the fathers. "Tustice to the native g-overnment," says Prof. W. D'. Alexander, the historian, "requires some fnrther explanation of the charge of persecution. It would have been strange, indeed, if the chiefs of that genieration., brought uip undler the old regimie, hadl heei aible to understand the principle of religions toleration or tile distinction between church and state. In ancient times each reigriiil family llal its own tutelar deitics, aild tile worship of those of a rival chief by a subject wN-ould ilave been consideredl an act of seditioll. ille civil war of 1819 was purely a relig-ions war, aild so was that of 1824 in a great measure. From that tulle any act tilat to tileir mndil~s sugogested image worship was regrardedl as a grave political offense." This was tile groundl taken by Kaahuimanu when Rev. H1iram I linugham relloilstratedl witl 11er for compelling certain Catholic coilverts to work oil tile stoile wall at Kuilaokahuia. In the mlinds of tile chliefs tllev wvere also identified withl tile faction of floki ail(l Liliha, who were piottiilg- tile overtllrow of the goverlileilt. It was therefore lot straige tllat tile older cihiefs regarded thlem ilot illerely as all eleulent of discord, but as a political party, (laligecrotis to tile state. There is abuildant evidlence that thle missionaries remloilstratedl with tile ciliefs againlst religions persectitioll. Tile cilargre tilat tile Aile'ticailmsinre were responsible was flatly dc'iied lby tile cliefs, by thle king aild ihis plremliers in lpulblislhedl stateileilts iil their ownl quainlt phraseology, anld tile (lelials were supported by illvestigatiolls mlade by mainy Ilaval officers of Iligil stanildiio To stim iup, it ilay lbe saidl llositix',ely tilat tile ilissiollaries were ilot responsible, ilor to lblanie at all, but eildeavored to prevent persecution. To tile FRENCH AND ENGLISH AGGRESSIONS 32 321 native rulers tile images of the Catholic service were idols, andl idlolatry had been abandoned. It was at this time that the naItive gyovernment, coming so closely in contact with foreign1 powers and clash-ing with international law, realizedI its need of a civilian adviser. At times the rulers consuilted the Akmerican missionaries, and were g-iven sound adlvice andl assistalice. The death of Kaahumanui, in 1831., was a blow to the stuirdy\ type of governilent shle had built uip. an(I the events of the next few years showedl how great was the loss which tile nation had snstainedl. The '(lays of lKaahuimanti' wvere long rememiberedl as a period of progress and prosperity. The grovernment was unnder a reg-ency until M_\arch, 1833, when Kanmehamjeha, III assumed haws prerog-atives as king- andl annouineedl his intention to "take jilto his possession the lan(ls for which his fatiler head toiled, tile power of life and (leathl Vanl undivided sovereigy." -lie called an assembly, and 111t insteadl of appointing as his premier, eitller Lili1ha or Kaomi, who had succeeledl in influencino himi n preiou vears-antl llot for his he'st interests solemnly appointed Kinati. W\hen as\ke(l why hie la(d (bile so, hie repliedl, "Verv strongy is thle K1\inodoni of God." The effect was electrical, and accordling to larves', all felt that the (lays of ilisrtlle were ended. In 1832, tile tf. S. frig-ate Potomac, Comlimodore Downes, arrived fromt tile East Indies, en route to Washington fronl a cruise aroulld tile world. The comlmodore hield several conferences with, tile voungT king aild hlis council, with M-\r. 11illglam as illterlpreter. At that time a party of Catholic coilverts was lbeiig persecuitedl and lie witilessed them building- a stoine Nva1l at Kulaokahtia, and stroncgly llrotested to tile chiefs ag-ainlst tile iiljustice and folly of punislhing men for tileir religionts opilliols. Thley were released. TOle king adboptedl 1Kiiai's Sonl. Alexander Liholiho, as his hleir and le blecamle iKanlelamella IV in 1854. 1Prog-ress was appareilt. A Seanlan's Chlapel was estab~lishled ini 1833, by Rev. Johni Diell, as "1}etllel Churchl," aiild for dlecadles it was a llaven for tile tllotsailds of seafaring. meni callingy at tile port. A schlool 322 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES house for the use of English-speaking children was liberally aided by visiting ships' crews and was called the Oahu Charity School. The first newspaper was established in 1836. The trade in sandalwood decreased from $400,000 to $30,000 a year and prosperity fell to a low ebb. The whaling industry revived the prosperity of the group. A sugar plantation was started at Koloa, Kauai, by Ladd & Co., in 1835. Commodore Kennedy, arriving in the U. S. warship Peacock, September 7, 1836, held many conferences with the king and chiefs and gave them advice as to land titles and claims of traders. All these subsequently recorded incidents were cogs in the development of the little kingdom until it became an important state, diplomatically dealing with the powers on an equality. The chiefs continued to be tenacious of their rights on two points which involved them in many disputes with foreigners. The first was the ownership of land, which, according to their theory, belonged to the king as the head of the nation and could not be transferred without his consent, so that all foreign residents were but tenants at will. The second point was the right of the king to withhold permission to enter the kingdom from any foreigner who miglht be obnoxious to him. In 1835 the two exiled priests in California received a brief from the Pope exhortiing them to persevere in their attempt to establish a mission in the Hawaiian Islands. On September 30, 1836, Rev. Robert Welsh, an Irish priest, educated in Paris, arrived at Ionolulu by the brig Garafilia, from Valparaiso. He was orderetl to leave the country. It was then that England, in the person of Consul Charlton, became involved in the difficulty. Charlton interposed an objection, asking permission for Welsh to remain until the arrival of the British frigate Acteon, Lord Edlward Russel. On October 8 the French corvette Bonite, Capt. Le Vaillant, arrived fronl Guayaquil. The priest appealed to the French captain who obtained permission for him to reside in the Islands on condition that he should make no attempt to propagate his religion among the natives. Lord Russell arrived October 23, and after long conferences, coupled with threats, he FRENCH AND ENG'LISH AGGRESSIONS 32 323 negotiated a convention (lefiniug the right of British subjects to land, reside, and build houses in the Islands "wvith the k'ing's consent." Damages were paid to George Chapman, whose house had been razed by order of the Chief Paki. Lord Russell then sailed for Tahiti. At this time the government acquired the bark Don Quixote as a warship. It was armed with fourteen gutins and called the Kai. Her first service was to carry the remains of Princess Nahienaena, the king's sister, to Laliaina for interment. She was buriel by the side of her mother, Keopuolani. Rev. Iathers B3achelot and Short returned from California oii the English brigantine (7cmicl'tiuic, ownecl ly Jules l)udoit, of H-onolulu, a Frenchman, on April 17, 1837. In the absenice of the king, Governor Kektuanaoa ordered the captain anil the owviier of the Clcniuciitiuic to receive the rriests on board againi, which each refused to (10. On the 19th lie issuetl an order to the 1)riests to return to California in the vessel in which they had arrived, his course being approved by the king and Kinan. The order was finally carriedl out on M.Way 20, and after some remonstrance by the mates the priests were put aboard, without violence- upon which M;r. Dudloit ordered them ashore, haulied down the Engiio-lish flago and carried it to M1\1r. Charlton, who burnt it in the street. Mr. Duidoit theen made a p~rotest to the English consul, affirming- that the Hlawaiian grovernm~iiient had seized the (JCle~tlitiuiC, an(d claimiiingo $10C00 (lain!ages. The American conlsul also claimed d1aiamages for WV. French, who had chartered the vessel on May 10 for another voyage. Meanwhile Kinau kept the priests supplied with provisions. On July 7, 1837, the British sloop-of-war Sulphutr -, Captaini Edward Belcher, arrivedl at Hoonolulu from San Bi3as; and on july 10 the French Frigate V "cenus, Capt. Du Petit Tliouars, arrived from Callao. Both were aplpealedl to for the liberation of the priests. The commanders, tog-ether with the Engolish and American consuls, called upon Kiiiau anld had what is termed a stormy interview. The British captain forgot himself so far as to shake his fists in the face of the premiier. When be de 324 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES parted, Charlton informed Kinau that the harbor was under blockade and all vessels, except the Clcieentine forbidden to depart. After inquiring about the high-handed proceeding, she declared: `"My vessel shall sail." Hle replied: "No, she will lbe fired upon. If you wish to write to the king [then on Maui], your messenger can go on our vessel with the letter." Kinau again replied, "No, my vessel shall sail." It did, and without molestation. Marines from the SulpIhur took the priests off the Clrllllctiuc and escorted them to their former residence. The British flag was hoisted on the Clcmentiuc and she was sent to Lahaina for the king, who, however, arrived on his own warship, the Kai. The next day he held audience with the two commanders. Both admitted the king's riglhts under the law of nations, but condemned his course. During the conference Mr. Binglham was insulted and threatened by a foreign officer, and the chiefs were compelled to interpose to protect him. A\s a compromise Capt. Du Petit Thouars signed a p)ledlge that M. Bachelot "would seize the first favorable opportunity to go to L ima, Valparaiso, or some other part of the civilized world," and that in "the meantime he should not preach. Captain Belcller signed a similar obligation for Mr. Short, and the king signed an agreement that the two priests might reside unmlolestedl at Honolulu until such oplportunity should occur. 'Tllus far, the king-'s rights lhad been sustainel, and yet he was without a alarlialent or civilized fornm of administration. At another conference he signed a brief convention with Capt. Dui Petit Tlhotars, guaranteeinog to the French "equal advantages with the subjects of the most favored nation." Both men-of-war sailed on the 24th without exchanlging- salutes with the fort. 'The attitude of Captain Bruce, commanding the British frigate Iollo'clu was courteous. He arrived on September 24, 1837, from Valparaiso, and remained until Cctober 12. He held four conferences with the kinlg and council and recommended a liberal systemn of toleration, but fully recognized the king's rights as an indlependent ruler. The chiefs addressed a letter of thanks to him. iTe was also entrusted with a petition for the removal FRENCH AND ENGLISH AGGRESSIONS 325 of Consul Charltoli. He offered free passage for the priests. Mr. Short sailed for Valparaiso October 30, 1837, in the ship Pcrl.t. Hardly had the smoke of the second battle cleared when the third battle began. The ship Europa, Captain Shaw, arrived from Valparaiso, bringing the Rev. L. D. Maigret, pro-vicar, and J. C. Murlhy, or Brother Columbian, a catechist. HI. Skinner, the owner of the vessel, had required the passengers, when in Valparaiso, to give bonds that they would not land in the Islands without the king's permission. On their arrival Klinau had the captain bound in the sum of $10,000 not to allow the landing of the priests without a permit. Mr. Maigret stated he merely wanted to remain until he could proceed to the Marquesas islands. The government refused to allow him to land unless French Consul Dudoit gave pecuniary security for his le)parture within a definite time. Finally, Mr. Maigret purchased the schooner Alissio.narv Packet cand sailed for Micronesia on the 23rd. Mr. Bachelot, who was in failing health, departed with himn, and, becoming worse, died at sea on December 4, and was buried on the island of Ponape. Mr. Maigret proceeded to the (ambier islands. On I)ecember 18. 1837, the king issued a decree forbidding the teaching of the Catholic religion, or the landing of any teacher or priest of that religion. However, with advice from Rev. William Richards, of the American Mission, the king was induced to issue an edict of toleration, June 17, 1837, which provided for the release of all in confinement for religious convictions. On July 9, 1839, the French sixty-gun frigate Irteilisc arrived at Honolulu. The commander, Captain La Place, in the course of a world cruise, and in looking after the French government's colonial policy, had called at Sydney, then at Tahiti, and then at Honolulu. However, without much ado he issued a manifesto the principal points of which were: "His Majesty, the King of the French, having commanded me to come to Honolulu, in order to put an end, either by force or persuasion, to the ill-treatment to which the French have been 326 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES victims at the Sandwich Islands, I hasten to employ the latter means as more conformable to the noble and liberal policy pursued by France toward the powerless. Misled by perfidious counselors, the principal chiefs of the Sandwich Islands are ignorant that there is not in the whole world a power capable of preventing France from punishing her enemies, or they would have endeavored to merit her favor instead of incurring her displeasure, as they have dlone in ill-treating the French. * * * They must now comprehend that to tarnish the Catholic religion with the name of idlolatry and to expel the French under that absurd pretext from this archipelago, was to offer an insult to France and to her sovereign. * * * Among all civilized nations there is not one that does not permit in its territory the free exercise of all religions. I consequently demand * * * etc. [The six demands were given in the chapter "Emissaries of the P'ope Scout Islands."] "These are the equitable conditions," the captain added, "at the price of which the king of the Sandwich Islands shall preserve friendship with France. * * If, contrary to expectation, and misled by bad advisers, the king and chiefs refuse to sign the treaty I present, war will immediately commence, and all the devastations and calamities which may result shall be imputed to them alone, and they must pay the damages which foreigners will have a right to reclaim." Dispatches were immediately sent off to the king, who was at Lahaina, while his secretary, Haalilio, and John Ii, were kept aboard the frigate as hostages. Notes were sent to the American and British consuls announcing La Place's intention to commence hostilities at noon on the 12th, and offering protection on board of his frigate for such of their countrymen as should desire it. In his note to the American consul, he added: "I do not, however, include in this class the individuals who, although born, it is said, in the United States, form a part of the Protestant clergy of the chief of this group, direct his counsels, influence his conduct, and are the true authors of the insults offered to France. For me, they compose part of the native population, and must FRENCH AND ENGLISH AGGRESSIONS 327 undergo the unhappy consequences of war which they will have brought on this country." The American missionaries, therefore, inquired of the Anerican consul whether the government of the United States would protect their lives and property, to which he replied that within the inclosure of his consulate, undler the flag of his country, he could guarantee them an asylum. The (late for the commencing of hostilities was postponed until the 15th in order to give time for the king to arrive. But on Saturday afternoon, the king not having arrived, Kekuanaoa went on board, delivered a treaty signed by himself and Kekauluohi, the premier, together with the twenty thousand dollars, part of which had been loaned by foreign merchants. The money was carefully counted and packed in four boxes, which were sealed with red wax with the seal of the Hawaiian government. [It was. returned intact many years afterward.] On the 14th. at 9 a. m., the king arrived, and soon after La Place, with one hundred and fifty men with bayonets fixed, and a band of music, proceeded to the thatched dwelling of the king, where a grand military mass was celebrated by Rev. R. Welsh. The French captain was surprised by the immediate compliance with his demands, so he drew up further conventions and presented them to the king on the 16th, which were required to be signed by breakfast time. No objection to their clauses was allowed; they must be received and signed as they were, or not at all. The fourth article stipulated that no Frenchman should be tried for any crime, except by a jury of foreign residents nominated by the French consul. The sixth article provided that "French merchandise, especially wine or brandy, shall not be prohibite(l, nor pay a higher duty than five per cent ad valorem." The Art1emise sailed on the 20th. The United States frigate Columtzbia, Commodore Read, and the Johnl Adad1ms, Captain Wyman, arrived at Honolulu on October 19. 1839, and remained until November 4. The claims of Mr. Duldoit and Mr. French for damages on account of the delay 32S UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES caused the Clementiue two years previous, were referred to the Conmodore as referee, and settled, on October 25, by the payment of $3,000 to each of them. The Commodore was also petitioned to appoint a court of inquiry to ascertain whether the American missionaries had "lost their citizenship," or had been tile cause of persecutions. HIe declined to do so because of want of time, but promised them protection by the United States. Sixteen of the officers of the squadron signed a testimonial in favor of the missionaries, and ordered one thousand copies of a pamphlet containing an account of the affair of the Artemise and a vindication of the American missionaries to be printed. The copies were sent broadcast to the United States. At this time the Declaration of Rights was drawn up at Lahaina-practically the first draft of a Constitution for the Islands -which was signed on June 7, 1839. The feeling of security which it afforded appears to have been the first official authority for creating the old( Hawaiian nation into a sovereign state that would have privileges of equal contact with the governments of the world. And, above all, with the opening of the 'forties all people were permitted to worship as they chose. CHAPTER XX ENGLAND A FRIEND, NOT AN ENEMIY NEW LIGHT ON FAMIOUS SEIZURE OF 1843 NGIAND'S hig'h-handed action in seizing' the Hawaiian Islan(!s in February, 1843, regarded from a new angle after inspection of official documlents filed away in the archives of Great Britain, nmust be looked upon as a strange, yet lofty ideal in keeping a plromise given half a century previous to protect the island kingdom acgainst foreign aggression. For eighty years the act of Lord George Iaulet, commanding HIer Brittanic Majesty's frigate Carysfort, has been regarlded b historians of Hawaii and elsewhere as one that could not be condoned; an act of injustice and oppression by a powerful nation toward a helpless one; and that his own comlnander-in-chief. Admiral Thomas, as soon as he was able to make reparation did so by repudiating the entire transaction. Official snubs offered the American and French consuls and Hawaiian officials by Lord George accentuated the rage of the Hawaiian people. History has placed Lord George in an unenviable light. Personally he exceded his instructions, and brought upon England needless anathema from Island people. Now, through researches conducted by the Hawaiian historical commission of the Hawaiian government in 1925, and access to the British archives, it is slhown that England seized the Hawaiian Islands to save them from France, and wlen the danger was over restored the Islands to the Hawaiian sovereigln. England seized the Islands, lowered the Hawaiian flag, raised the British standard, held them for five months with the Carvsfort guns frowning upon the city of Honolulu, and British soldiers standing guard at the fort and palace. Historians agreed that the motive for the seizure was principally to compel tle Ha 330 330 ~UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES waiian gyovernmient to accede to the demands for adjustment of allegyel claims and trumped-uip grievances which Richard Charitoil, the B~ritish consul, had laid hefore the Hawaiian sovereig-n. Chariton, after appoin-tingf Alexander Simpson vice-consul, left the Islands aild, meeting Lord George at a Mexican port, in(lucedl him, so history has always recorded, to conme to, Honolulu and enforce the demands, including tile appointment of Simpson, which the groverlnient would not accept. The king's refusal to receive Sinlpsoil was hased on tile belief that h~e "despised the authorities of tile kinoydonli aind they say you are gigto nmake (listurhailce ill tile kiilgdonl.." Mr. Simpsoll fully justified the king's belief thlat he was a seditious character hy his own literary works wvlerein he statedl, "Froml the period of m~y first visit to the Saildwich Islands, I becamie collvinlced of their value and iniportailce, aild, tilerefore, desirous that they should form a British Po55CssionU." Mr. Silllpsoil ininedliately calledl a meetillgf of the supporters of llis views, who passedl a resolution favorinig hlis exercising the duties of collstl, whlicil le continued to (l0, unnloticed by otiler coilsuls anid unsailctioledl by the kiilg. His aulbition beiilo( to ilake the Islailds all appendage of the British crownl, he indutstriously fom-enited (lifficulties and devised means to effect tllis favorite p)roject. Tlhroughl Iis influence, ilemlorials purporting to coime fronl Britisih residents, but in reality signlel by individlnals of 10 ilote, were forwarded to lhis goverinileit. In 1842 thle kinlg ladl appointed Sir Georgec Simpson, lleadl of the Hudson Bay Conlipanv illterests in Canada and Hawaii, Rev. VWillianl. Ricllar(1s and( Tillnoteo Haalilio, a native cllief, as joinlt commissioners to proleedl to tile United States and Europe. Sir George left inlmediately. Tile otiher two sailedl in luly, 1842, for Mazatlall, wlheince tlley proce~eded (lirect to the U~nited States. G. P. Judld, pilysiciall to tile Amlerican Mission, long and intimately acquaintedl witil tile clliefs, was illvitedi hy them to, stipply Mr. Ricilards' Iplace, ill thle local goverinmeint, actinlg as recordler aildl traisliator. He resigyned fronl the ulission aind accepted the portfolio. Hie was also appoinltedl President of tile Treasury Board, ENGLAND A FRIEND 1) I anll to correspondl with the coimiiissioners abroal. Alexander Simpson's lespatches seit to the coast of M\rexico, indiced, it is said, Admiral Thomnas to order the Curlv'sfort to H-lonolulu for the purpose of inquiring into the matter. She arrivetl February 10, 1843, hefore the sale of Chariton's property had taken place. A court had found in favor of Mr. Belly, agent of the Hudson Bay Company, against Chariton for $3,000 and the property was attached for payment. Simpson imnimedeiately went on hoard the Carvsfort to concert measures with Lord George, who, from. his entire acquiescence in Simpllson's plans, appears to have lbeen fully won over at this interview to sustain them. The 11 uthorities on shore suslpectet l there was nio friendly feeling, fromt the withholding of the usutal salutes. Mr. Judd, on behalf of the governmient, made an official call on board, but was informed lie could not he received. Visits from the Ainmerican aiid French coiisuls were similarlyN (eclinel. Captain Paulet addlressedl the 'governor, informaing himii that lie xvishied to coiifer with the kingif, who was abseiit. The king arrived froiii Maui on the 16th, anld on the iext (lay receivedl the followiing letter anid (lemaands from Lord Geor(e Ptiulet: H-. B. ni's Ship Carnsfort, Oahiu, 17th February, 1843. Sir: —In answer to your letter of this (layvs dlate-xvhiiclh I have too goodl an opinion of your Mlajesty to allow mie to believe ever emnaiiated from youtrself hut from ytour ill-advisersI have to state that I shall hold no coiiiiiiunication with Dr. G. 1'. Juddlh wlio, it has heen satisfactorily p~rovedh to miie hias been the punlic mover in the unlawful p~roceedings of your goveriiiient aoainst British subjects. As you have refusedn me a ipersoial interview, I enclose von the (lemanids which I consider it imy (lutv to iiake upon your g(rovernmeiit; with which I dem-iancl a compliance at or before 4 o'clock, 1). iii., toniiorrow -Satuirdlay - othlerwise I shall be obligedl to take immediate coercive steps to obtain these m-easures for my countrymen. 3)32 UNDER HAWN\AIIAN SKIES I have the honor to be your Majesty's most obedient, humble servant, GEORGE PAULET, Captain. Demlanls made by the Right Honorable Lord George Paulet, Captain Royal Navy, comnmanding H. B. M.'s Ship Carysfort, upon the King of the Sandwich Islands. First. The immediate remnoval, by public advertisement, written in the native and English languages, and signed by the governor of this island and F. W. Thompson, of the attachment pllaced upon Mr. Charlton's property; the restoration of the land taken 1y the government for its own use, and really appertaining to AMr. Charlton; and reparation for the heavy loss to which Mr. Charlton's representatives have been exposed by the oppressive and unjust proceedings of the Sandwich Islands government. Sccoind. The imimediate acknowledgment of the right of Mr. Sillpson to l)erformn the functions delegated to him by Mr. Charltonl; namely, those of H-er Brittanic Majesty's acting consul, until I Ier Majesty's pleasure be known upon the reasonableness of your ol)jections to him. The acknowledgment of that right and the reparation for the insult offered to Her Majesty through her acting representative, to be made by a public reception of his comlmission, and the saluting of the British flag with twentyone iguns, which number will be returned by Her Brittanic Majesty's slip un(ler my command. T'hird. A guarantee that no British subject shall in future be subjected to imprisonment in fetters, unless he is accused of a crimne which by the laws of England should be considered a felolnv. Foutrth. The compliance with a written promise given by King Kamehameha to Captain Jones, of Her British Majesty's ship Curacoa, that a new Mnd fair trial would be granted in a case brought by Henry Skinner, which promise has been evaded. Fifthi. The immediate adoption of firm steps to arrange the matters in dispute between British subjects and natives of the country, or others residing here, by referring these cases to juries. One-half of whonm shall be British subjects, approved by ENGI-ANI-) A FRIEND 333 the consul, and all of whomi sliall (leclare on oatli, their freedom fromt prejudgment upon, or interest in the cases brought before them. Sixth. A direct communication between His Majesty Kamehanieha and Her Brittanic Majesty's acting consul, for the immlediate settlement of all cases anl grievances and complaint on the part of British subjects against the Sandwich Islandl government. TDated on boardl H-. B. Al.'s Ship Carysfort, at Oahu, the 17th (lay of February, 1843. Goi-,-(;F. PAULEIT, Captain. Captain Long, of the U~nited States ship Bostoni, then in port,. was informed by letter at midniiiht of the anticilpated attackc of the British commander. In the moriming the Carysfort w-as cleared for action, springs put upon her cables, and her batteries broughti to bear uipon the town. The English families embarked for security on board a brig, in the outer roals. The Americains and other foreiginers having but short notice, placed their funds andl patp'rs al)oardl the Rostoni and other vessels, intendlilg to retreat to them wvith their families in case of actual hostilities. Tlhe town was in a state of great excitement. The (lispositiolls of the chiiefs were uncertain. Excited by the gross injustice of the demands, the first imptilses of the kingy antl council, in whichi they were stistainel by the indlignant feeling of the entire foreign p1opuilation, excepting the few vho sided with Simpton, were for enerogetic measures. Arms were procured and bodies of meni begyan to assemble. B~ut lpeaceful counsels at last prevailed. It was in such an emergency that the real influence of the missio-il aries was felt. The natural (esire of the chiefs and forieigners was to fighlt, but the entire indoctrination of the missionll, aimated by the peacefil principles of the gospel, had beeii of that nature that (lependls more upon the swordl of the spirit than the arm of the flesh. They counselled peace. Shortly before the hour at which hostilities were to commence, the king (lispatchedl a letter to the Carvs fort, informing Lord George Paulet that he yieldedl to his demands, under protest, andl had appointed Sir George 334 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES Simpson and William Richards as his commissioners to the Court of Great Britain to settle the pending difficulties. His Majesty appIointed February 20th, at eleven o'clock a. 1n., to receive Lord George and the vice-consul. On the same day he protested against the acts of Paulet il these words: "We, Kamehameha, King of all tlhe Sandwich Islands, and Kekauluohi, IPremier thereof, in accordance with the laws of nations, and the rights of all aggrieved Sovereigns and individuals, (do herel)y enter our solemn act of protest before God, the world, andl before the Governmtent of Her Most Gracious Majesty, Victoria, Queen of the United Kingdoms of Great Britain and Ireland; "Against the Right Hon. Lord George Paulet, Captain of -I. B. M.'s ship Carysfort, now lying in the harbor of Honolulu, for all losses and dlamages which may accrue to us, and to the citizens of other countries residing under our dominion and sovere;gnllty, il consequence of his unjust demands made upon us this (lay, by the said Right Hlon. Lord George Paulet, enforced by a threat of coercive measures, and an attack upon our town of tHonolulu, in case of a non-compliance with the same within a period of nineteen hours; thereby interfering with our laws, en(langering the good order of society, and requiring of us whlat no plower has a right to exact of another with whom they are on terms of peace and amity; "And we (do solemnly protest and declare, that we, the Sovereign authority of these our islands, are injured, grieved, abused and( (lanlage(l, 1y this act of the Right Hon. Lord George Paulet, an(l we hereby enter our solemn appeal unto the Government of H-er Most Gracious MIajesty, represented by him, for redress, for justification, and for repayment of all said losses, danlages and paiymients which may in cons;equence accrue unto us, or unto the citizens of other countries living under our jurisdiction." On the 20tl the king and premier visited the Carysfort and were received with royal honors. This courtesy, however, was but a preludle to a further series of demands rendered necessary to accomplish Simpson's aim, by the unexpected compliance of I olnulul abount 1857, shlonig Queen street. On the right the wall of the -old fort is being deIlolisedi. At the left is the Hudson's Bav Comparny headquarters. In the right foreground is the old government house, where, on February 12, 874,Da vid xKoat a was o elected King of Haivowii, followioig which there was a driot during whiih the legislators were badly manhantiled:nd trnoops from the AmneriTcan ald British wirSlhips in port were hurried ashore to preserve order. 336 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES the king with the first. These were brought forward at an interview on the following (lay. The total amount demanded in money was $117,330.89. The demands left the king and the premier in misery. The cession of the Islanlls to the United States or France was considered by the council the only ray of hope that seemed to gleam across their (lifficult path. But I:rance, it was considered, was still acting a hostile part towards the Islalnds. Even un(ler the pressure by Paulet, the council felt that England was their friend, andl France was even then trying to pick a quarrel. The question of France coming in, unless the Englislh demands were comlplied with, acted as a spur to giving in to the English. The 25th of February was the (lay set for a decision. In the final mleeting of the king with the council prayer was offered, and all knelt asking for (livine gui(lance. On rising the king and premier sat, and then the king arose, and seizing a pen sul)scril)e(l his lnamle to the deed of cession demanded by Paulet. "Lret it go," he said. "If I get htelp, I get it; if not, let it go. 1 can do no lmore." The p)remier then added her siginature. I-favine dleci(led upon a provisional cession of his dominiols to Great Britain, the king announced the event to his subjects in a touchinlg p)roclanlation: "\Vllere are yon, chiefs, peol)e, and commons from mly ancestors, and people from foreig1n lands! "I Tear ye! I make known to you that I am in perplexity by reason of difficulties, into wihich I have been brought without cause; therefore, I have given away the life of the land, hear ye! lBut my rule over you, mll people, and your privileges, will continue, for I lhave hope that the life of the land will be restored when n1ly conduct is justified. "I)one at HIonolulu, Oallu, this twenty-fifth dav of Febru-ary, 1843. (Signed) "KAxEA-uA.\TE1: II. KIE KAULUO II.' ENGLAND A FRIEND37 337 At the request of Lord George, Dr. Jtidd was apploillted his (lepilty. Dr. Jtidd declined to take tile responsibility, alld the killg appointed Willianm Paty, wvlonm Lord George declined to receive. Finally D-r. Judld consented to act. Tile nigilt of tile cession the king went to Maui. From tilis proclamation the miotto of tile laild was created: "Ua mau ke ea o ka aina i ka pono" ("Tile life of tile lalld is perpetuated in righteousnless'), alld remrains tile mlotto of the territory today as it was of tile mollarcily. Lord Paulet appoillted a colllnlissioll, kniowNn since as tile "Britisil Comminission, xv9hich administered the affairs of the Hawaiiall killg for five iloliths. On Marcil 11., Alexanlder Sinlpsoll left Honolulu for Lll-nlaild, ill a vessel belongillgc to tile king, wvitll lispatclhes to the forcio-n office fromt Lor(1 GeorgTe. Tile king anld ciliefs, (lesirous of beinw-, relpreselltedl at Lonldon on an occasion of sucil vital illportance by all agent of their own, ordlercd Dr. Judd to ellgxage olle. J. F. B. Marshall, an Amlerican resident ill Hollolulin, havillgy coliseilted to g-o secret illstrnctiolls were giveil hiill Iis collllssi5ol alld papers were signed by tile king at Waikiki, who weilt tilere secretly fronl Lailailla for that purpose. Witiloit (iisclosillg ilis object to Simipson, M~r. Marshall was allowedl passage 011 the same vessel, hy xvhicll he carried news of tile cessioll, via Mexico, to tile -United States aild Ellgland. Dr. Judd~, ill tile seclusioll of tile royal tollib, using tile coffin lid of Kaahllumanu as his diesk, carriedl 011 tile affairs of tile Hawaiiall kingdom at iligiht, for tile archives were kept there tillknown to tile Britisih commlissionl. With unisiakell reliallce oil tile justice of England, the chiefs impatienllty awvaited 11cr (lecision. On July 6, tile U~nitedl States ship Conistollation, Conllmo(lore IKearlney, arrived. He illllediiateiy issued a public protest agrain-st tile seizure of the Tsiallds. Tilis ellcouraged the chiefs. Oil all occasions Commi-odore Kearney treated tileill as inldepelldellt lrillces. This courtesy exasperated Lord Georgre, who wrote tile kingy tilat if lie should suiffer himslllef to be saluted uinder the Hawaiian flag, hie wouild forfeit all consideration from 338 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES Her Majesty's government. The king came from Maui on July 21 to confer with Commodore Kearney. So much irritation was now manifested on all sides that an explosion was imminent, when, unexpectedly to all, Rear Admiral Thomas, in the Dublin, frigate, arrived from Valparaiso, from which place he had made all possible speed on receiving the dispatches of Lord George. The designi of his visit was at first doubtful. He lost no time, however, in making known his intentions. In a few hours it was known he had come to restore the sovereignty of the Islands. The joy of the natives and foreigners was unbounded, the mortification of the Sinpson party extreme. Negotiations were promptly opened with the king by the admiral, and at an interview on the 27th the terms of the restoration were agreed upon. The 31st day of July, 1843, is a memorable one in H-Tawaiian history. It is now called "Restoration I)ay." It was the time set for the world to witness England, in the person of her gallant and worthy officer, restoring to the petty sovereign of the Hawaiian Islands his dlominions. It was dlone in 1great good taste. On the "plains," between -Tonolulu town and Waikiki the ceremony was stag-ed. A tent was erected for the ladies. At 10 o'clock a. n., several companies of English marines were dlrawn up in line facing the sea, with an artillery corps on their righlt. The king came escorted by his own troops. As the royal standlar(l was unfurled under a salute of twenty-one guns from the brass pieces of the Dltblin's force, the English ensigns over the fort and palace were lowered, and the Hawaiian colors restored. National salutes were then fired successively from the men-of —war Dublin, IHaoard(, Carysfort and Constellation, and the two forts and shipping in the harbor. At 1 o'clock the king attendled divine service at the stone cllhurch (Kawaiahao) where he addressed the people, informing them that "the life of the land" had been restored to him. Before the festivities, lasting several days, were over, the United States ships Uniiited States, Commodore Jones, and the CVaze, ENGLAND A FRIEND 339 Captain Stribling, arrived. The last brought news of the recognition of independence of Hawaii by England and France. Notwithstanding the handsome manner in which Admiral Thomas, before hearing from his government, restored the king to his sovereignty, he required stipulations highly favorable to British interests and calculated to be embarrassing in execution to the king. However, the king gave his assent. The independence of the kingdom, recognized by England and France, was the work of the commission sent to London, laboring for a year. On the return voyage of Messrs. Richards and T-faalilio, the latter died at sea and his body was brought to Honolulu for burial. Their labors, conducted at London, Paris and Brussels, were arduous. They were assured that Mr. Charlton had been permanently removed. According to records in the British Archives, Capt. George Paulet's official dispatches to Admiral Thomas and to the British Admiralty, state that the seizure of the Hawaiian Islands was made to prevent their being captured by the French and becoming a colony, as had already been done with Tahiti. England, however, is entitled to the glory of the act of safeguarding the kingdom and the subsequent return of the sovereignty of the Islands to Kamehameha III. Captain Paulet acted in colmpliance with instructions fronm a superior officer, but, unfortunately, fell under the spell of the Charlton-Simpson faction in Honolulu acnd permitted their grievances to dlonlilate his attitude while in Honolulu. Despite the worthy motive of preventing France from raising her standard over Hawaii, Paulet belittled himself by his partisan acts in connection with the Charlton-Simpson faction. The Frencll were mobilizing a fleet at Tahiti, to comprise three frigates, two corvettes, a brig and a storeship. Early in March, 1843, Captain Paulet forwarded dispatches (probably at the time Simpson and Marshall departed on the same vessel for Mexico), stating that the French fleet was expected in Hawaiian waters shortly, alnd the invaders would find, much to their surprise, an English vessel on guard and the English flag flying over the Islands. He stated, positizely, that 340 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES the Britisih ilotiZve for the Islaids' seizure was the anticipated inltent of the French. The researches in the British Archives were made by the Hawaiian Historical Commission. Efforts to compare these reports with those il the consular files of France have been fruitless, the French government declining to give permission to have its files examined. For a few years the kingdom was permitted to prosper and develop in peace. In November, 1843, Dr. Judd was appointed Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs. In 1844, General Miller arrived as consul-general for England. He was accompanied by a distinguished man, Robert Crichton Wyllie, a Scotchman, a traveler learned in the ways of diplomacy, and a litterateur. For a while he was British pro-consul. He attracted the attention of the king who appointed him Minister of Foreign Relations, in which cap)acity he served for twenty years. He made the Hawaiian government. He placed it on a footing as a royal domain, witl king, court, cabinet, provided proper places for conducting business, for royal residences; had a code of royal etiquette adopted, and, in time, was in correspondence with the capitals of the foreign powers, negotiated treaties, the first being in 1846 with Denmark. Hte set about to secure a treaty with the United States, and this was adopted December 24, 1849, and in 1850 it was ratified. But before the Amlerican treaty was adopted France once mlore became aggressive and Hawaii was for the second time in the course of six years deprived of her independence. The French admiral, de Tromelin, in command of the frigate Poursilizvanite and the steamer Gasscudi, arrived at Honolulu in August, 1849. M. Dillon, the French consul, it is said, had trumped up a series of demands up)on the Hawaiian government, which, according to some historians, were baseless and unjust. Tlle arrival of the French force and tle ready cooperation of its comnmander gave to M. Dillon the much coveted opportunity of llumbling the little island kingdom. Isamtoi.iol 1,1t III (Kai lootuli who gave his slbijects a Bill of tights, llohei, first I(oistiolt ion, dividedtl tile ltiis armong his opeople, wien lie signled away the aeielet felldal systemi ali gave H Laaii a loderli legis lative le 0etIeeItoo/ The demands were of such a nature that compliance with theml wtould have amoutted to an absolute loss of the natiol' i hdependenece. After several (ayi s slpett in inltercharging tes -e tween Mr. Wytlie, the king's minister of foreign affairs, and the French Admiral, the ultimatum was laid down that if the demands were not, cotmpllieda ith within a stpeifie tllime, hostilittes would commnence. Accordingly, at alt apointted lhotur the goverome lt havitg failed to comply with the de mani s thle French oroceeded to land a force with two brass catons. drumts beating and colors fleitlg. 342 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES They met with no opposition on landing and marched into the empty fort. There was, however, one person to welcome them. "Where are your soldiers.?" asked the French officer. "They have all been sent into the country," replied Governor Kekuanaoa. "Wh\ere are their arms?" 'Each man takes his gun with him." "I require you to surrender this fort and all the munitions of x;war." "You have got everything already," replied the Hawaiian governor. "There is nothing left to surrender." The Hawaiian flag which was flying over the fort was never molested by the French, and thus by a quibble it was held that there was no infraction of the Treaty of 1843, by which Frarce, conjointly with Great Britain, had agreed never on any pretext to take possession of any portion of the Hawaiian domain. The French remained in occupation of the fort and government buildings for several weeks, (luring which time a stagnation of business existed in Honolulu. In the magazine of the fort were fifty kegs of powdler which the invaders stove in and (lumlped into the harbor. They also smashed the calabashes of the governor, who had his official residence at the fort. During the occupation, the port of Honolulu was strictly blockade(d by the Gasscldi, which lay inside the harbor, while the Poltrsuti(tantt lay outside. All inter-island conmmunication wvas stop)ped. No coasters were allowed to depart, and all arriving froml the other islands were taken possession of and anchored under the guns of the steamer. Passengers and livestock had a hard time while being held aboard under such circumstances. In 1846 the king had purchased a Baltimore-built schooner, a leautiful craft, for which he paid $11,500. She was called the KaTinlameha III, and the king took great pleasure in visiting the other islands in the yacht. Notwithstanding that the vessel was the king's private property, the French admiral seized her as she lay at anchor in the harlor and put a prize crew aboard. W\hen the men-of-war departed, they took the yacht. It was ENGLAND A FRIEND 343 never returned, and was supposed to have been left at the Society Islands. In the fort the French spiked the guns and endeavored to hew off the trunnions of two fine brass field pieces. The French loopholed the walls for muskets and kept close watch against the town, for the rumor had been spread that the French were to be attacked. That would have given the French cause to take other forcible means, to actually reach a state of war, and the Islands probably would have been seized and held as a French possession. The non-resistance policy of the Hawaiian government was the wisest, and in the end the admiral and M. Dillon gave up and left the scene without having done more than to spill a few kegs of gunpowder and destroy the guns of the fort. Since then the visits of French warships have always been of a peaceable nature and occasions of interchange of social gaiety. CIHAPTER XXI FEUDAL RIGHTS YIELDED TO PEOPLE "GREAT MAHELE" OF KAMEHAMEHA III ITHE king was the State. He regarded all the lands as his, to deal with as he chose. He was supreme in authority. Not until 1847 did the people have the right to say that the pieces of property upon which they dwelt were their very own in fee simple. It was in 1847 that Kamehameha III, at the instance of his ministers of state, and carrying out the ideals of constitutional government, granted in 1840, partitioned the lands of the kingdom, the king reserving a third, a third going to the chiefs, and a third for the people. The king divile(l his third into two parts, one being held as his personal property, the other called the Crown Iands, the revenue from which was largely devoted to the maintenance of the sovereign and his family and retainers. Kamehamneha First's original territory was Halaula, a large listrict on the northeast coast of H-awaii which he inherited from his parents. During the lifetime of Kalaniopuu, who reignedl when Captain Cook arrived, he acquired a portion of Kona: and it was the war which arose from the attempts of his cousin to dispossess him that developed his martial energies, and step by step led him on until he was master of the group. Towards the conquered families he exercised no untoward severity; the principals, by alliance or gifts, were firmly bound to his interests. TIe espoused Keopuolani, the granddaughter of Kalaniopuu, who blecame his prisoner at the conquest of Maui. As she was the lineal descendant of the ancient kings of Maui and H-awaii, this marriage strengthened his title to the throne. Kalanimiokt, who became his trusty counsellor, had fought in the ranks of Keoua, Kamehameha's rival, at Keei; was made a "GREAT MAHELE" 345 prisoner, and owed his life to Kamehameha's clemency. Although allied to the royal family of Maui, he became strongly attached to the Conqueror. The descendants of Kahekili were liberally cared for. The beneficence and lhumanity of the king left chiefs and people nothing to regret by the change of masters. The nominal submission of the king of Kauai satisfied his ambition, though he never lost sight of the ultimate conquest of that island. Hle remained at Hawaii four years after the conquest of ()ahu, and afterwards spent many years at Iahaina, establishing his court first at Kawaihae, Hawaii, then at Lahaina. The political axiom upon which his legislation was framed was that all the lands were his. This principle had before been acknowledged, though not in so complete a sense. To their old customl he allded the cogent argument of conquest, in right of which he claimed to be the sole lord and proprietor of the soil. IThis was apportioned among his followers according to their rank anFd deserts, they holding it by feudal tenure, and a proportion of its revenue. It was generally confirmed to their heirs, but this depended upon the will of the king. His authority was absolute, (lispensing with his own regulations as' his interests dictate(l. But sucl an event was rare, and under his reign the ancient traditionary laws of the kingdoms were so arrange(l and executed as to have all the force of a written code. Each island or cluster had a governor. -He, wiith the approval of the king, a)l)ointed chiefs of districts; head men, who presided over villages; tax collectors, and other petty officers. Besides the general lroprietorship of the soil, the king held certain districts which were his private property, and under no authority except his own. Favorite chiefs somletimes received lands in this way, independent of the governors. No regular amount of taxes was enforced. The governors were accountable to the king for the amounts apportioned( to them. They regulated theirs by their desires or 1b the resources of the people; the chiefs required another, and( the lesser officials left but little to the poor tenants. Lands were sometimes leased upon regular agreement, according to the amount of the crop. Those who were deficient in their crops 14 346 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES were turned from the land and the property transferred to others. The districts were divided into towns or villages, and these subdivided into farms, to which a definite portion of 1nountain land, valley and seashore, with right of forests and fisheries, were attachel. The tax gatherers, though without a knowledge of writing, kept true records of the various lands, their resources, and the amount of taxes rendered, by lines of cordage of several hundred fathoms in length. The several districts were distinguished by knots, loops and tufts of various sizes, shapes and colors. From the most faithful of his warriors, his governors or counsellors were selected, and the king seldom decided an important measure without their advice. A certain number constituted a regular cabinet, and enjoyed his full confidence. Merit, more than rank, was the passport to his favor. Keeaumoku, a chieftain of prodigious physical strength, who had rendered distinguished service, was at the head of this council. LIe was father of a son of the same name, heir to his titles, afterward known as Governor Cox, and of Kaahulmanu, Piia, Kuakini, and Kekauluohi, who, in the 'forties, was premier. Kalanimoku, Manawa and Kameeiamo(ku were also particularly distinguished. Besides these he had a numbler of "wise men," who assisted him in the framing of laws, and in regulating minor affairs of his kingdom. So perfectly was the order preserved by his agents that the anarchy which had laid waste the lands and destroyed people was checked. Peace was everywhere firmly established. Laws were enacted p)rohil)iting nlurder, theft, oppression and the usual crimes of a (listurle(l country. The change was so complete that the old and voung felt perfect safety. Kamehameha permitted no crimes but his own, if crimies thev were. The chiefs who may have had aml)itions, or (lesired to plot, had no opportunity to go to their hereditary lands to meet their own people. They were always under the observation of Kamehameha's attendants. The most lpowerful provinces were placed under the control of those whose fi(lelity was unquestioned. John Young, who was not liable to b1ecome involved in intrigues, was left in charge of the Hawaii "GREAT MAHELE" 347 station, which trust he filled for many years with satisfaction. Davis remained about the person of his sovereign and enjoyed extensive possessions, free of taxation. They both accommodated their modes of living to the manners of the natives and were always popular. As the king grew in power he affected greater state, and consequently the people had less access to his presence. There was much ceremony connected with the affairs of his court, all calculated to increase the awe of the subjects toward their sovereign. Whenever he passed, heads and shoulders were uncovered. The same was required on approaching his residence. The shadow of neither the king nor his house could be crossed, on pain of punishment. To stand or be above him was the gravest offense. Not a subject dared be on the deck above a part of the ship in which Kamehameha might be. However, he was courteous to foreigners and in many ways expressed a desire to them that they come to his Islands to remain and assist him, in building ships and increasing his comnerce. Following the advent of the missionaries, and 'the gradual increase in the number of foreigners, with consular agents appointed by foreign governments accredited to Hawaii, such as John C. Jones, the first officer appointed, about 1820, for the United States; Richard Charlton, for Great Britain, in 1825; andl the negotiation of a treaty with the United States in 1826, through Capt. Thos. ap. Catesby Jones, U. S. N., commanding the U. S. sloop of war Peacock, the feudal system began to prove a hindrance rather than a help to the (evelolplenlit of the king(dom's resources. Traders established houses on shore. But they could not purchase land. Leases were granted, some for two hundred and ninety-nine years. Such a lease as this was granted in 1826 to Richard Charlton, the British consul, but not filed or recordled until a quarter of a century later, when its authenticity was questioned by the government. Americans, British, French, alnd representatives of other nations were grante(l the right to live in H-onolulu. They established stores, hotels, 348 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES lodging houses, ship yards, ship chandleries, cooper shops, carpenter shops, and residences. But no man's tenure was certain. For twenty-five years this anomalous state of affairs continued, when il 1848 the division of all lands was made hy Kamehameha III, one of the greatest achievements of the Hawaiian monarchy. When Kamehameha I died the kingdom passed to his son Kamehameha II, who ruled in cooperation with Kaahumanu, to whom Kamehameha I had assigned the office of Premier, or in Hlawaiian, Kuhina Nui. The Council of Chiefs, upon news of the (leath of Kamehameha II in London, and on the return of his bodly on the British frigate Blonde, in June, met and proclaimled Kauikeaouli the rightful sovereign, to be known as Kainehameha III; but during his minority Kaahumanu would contintie as Kuhina Nui. Little by little the Council became a power. the royal court. In later years the Council of Chiefs became the HIouse of Nobles, the uppler house of parliament, or legislature. Up) to 1839 the common peolle had practically no rights, is the opinion of the historian, Prof. \V. D. Alexander. Gradually the feudal system became such an anachronism that the Council sent to the United States for an adviser to adjust the many difficulties over land. The effort failed and Rev. William Richards, of the mission circle, was chosen in 1838 to be adviser, instructor in civil governnment, and interpreter. He was released by the Americlan Board and in 1839 entered upon his (luties by lecturing on the science of government to the king and his court at Lahaina. About this time the first code of laws and the Declaration of Righlts were drawn ulp the first or preliminary draft being male bv a native graltuate of Lahainalluna sclool. This document. which was something after the order of the 'Magna Charta, altlough procured in a titme of l)eace, was read to the king and chiefs who spent days and weeks discussing it. It was redrawNn. the revised draft was read and accepted, and on a third reading was approved, with all amendments. by the king, and publlished June 7, 1839, forming a palmphlet of twenty-four pages. "GREAT MAHELE" 349 The first constitution was drawn up ill 1840 in a similar manner and approved by the general Council of Chiefs. It was then signed by the king and the premier, Kekauluohi, tlhe mother of William Lunalilo, who was elected king in 1872 to succeed Kamehameha V. The constitution was proclaimed October 8, 1840. It perpetuated the office of kuhina nui and the four governors instituted by Kamehameha I and defined their powers and duties. It constituted a legislative body, consisting of fifteen hereditary nobles and seven representatives, who met annually, sitting together in one chamber. The representatives were elected by the people in a rather informal manner. The legislative body was to appoint four judges, who, together with the king and Ipremier, should form the supreme court of final appeal. The old laws were revised and new ones added and the collection was published in 1842. They established a uniform system of taxation, abolished all oppressive and arbitrary taxes, all forced labor, and miost of the oppressive talus that formerly rested on fishing. The first school laws were enacted in 1841. On May 15, 1842, all governlment plroperty was set apart and a treasury board consisting of four persons was crea:ted, of which Dr. G. P. Judd, who soon became a forceful figure in Hawaiian governmnent affairs, was chairman. Bv institutiing a regular systeml of keeping the accounts, of paying government officers, and of collecting the taxes, he soon estallished the credit of the government, and paid off the mnost pressilg debts. On the 20th of May, 1845, the legislature was formally opened for the first time, by the kiing in person, witl fitting ceremonies. At this session John Ricord, the attorney general, was ordered l! a joint resolution to draft a series of acts organizing( the five executive departments of tlhe governlent. By this time the king and chiefs were fully convinced that their ancient system of land tetnure was the great hindrance to further progress in civilization. anl, accorling to Prof. Alexander, saw that it was continually involvillg tlhell in dlislutes with foreigners. By Dr. Juldd's advice, the legislature passed an act on Deceniier 10, 1845, constituting a "'Boardl f Commissioners to 1a.wtiahiao Ctnureh, the i Westtlinster Abbey of Hlawaii.t a stately,oral pile, stands upon the site where eu., Hiranl Bisgisangha Ire: luhed tie first Ciristial serlon in the HLa-iian Islands, in 182i. It wvas the church of HI slwaaiian roysltyI, illd t hrough its port"I;ls inigs, queens, princes, prine esses chiefs ald (e}i'fM(s rwevee lyorie Ito tlheir lisst resting plaoees ar(id )icturesque (rralys of katilis, the symbols of;;. h';l I11tA, ehuiX~r(1l1."a.s finiSh'Std aboui:t 1841l. "GREAT MAHELE" 351 Quiet Land Titles," before which all persons were required to file their claims to land within two years or be forever barred. This board continued in office until 5March 31, 1855. After a long investigation it was finally settled that there were but three classes of persons having vested riThts in land, namely: 1st, the king; 2nd, the chiefs; and 3rd, the tenants or common people. The land commissioner decided that if the king awarded the landlords one-third, the tenants one-third, and kept one-third himself, "he would injure no one but himself." For many years the king and chiefs had endeavored in vain to make some partition of lands among themselves which would enable each to hold independently in fee simple. At last the subject was brought before the Privy Council, in December, 1847, when the principles of such a partition were finally established. A committee was appointed, of which Dr. Judd was chairman, to effect this partition. The work was commenced January 27, 1848, and completed in forty clays. The (lay after the first partition with the chiefs was closed, the king again divided the lands which had been awarded to him, setting apart half of them for the government, and' reserving the remlain(ler for himself as his own private estate. The former were known as government lands, and the latter as crown llnds. By this noble act Kamehamieha III set an illustrious examiple of liberality and public spirit. Most of the chiefs afterwards, about 1850, gave up a third of their lands to the government in order to obtain an absolute title to the remainder. The common people were offered fee simp)le titles for their house lots and the lands which they actually cultivated for themselves, called kuleanas. The nunmber of claims finally confirmed totaled 11,309. The awards were recorded in ten large folios which were deposited in the Land Office, and are now filed in the Archives of Hawaii. Aliens were not allowed to own land in fee simple until July 10, 1850. It is significant that in this year Hawaii and the United States entered into their first treaty, or rather the first which was ratified. Thus a solid foundation was laid for individual property ownership of land. 352 UNDER IHAW\\'AIIAN SKIES The closing years of the fourth decade were fraught with important developments, conclusively proving that the new era of political effort, the portfolio method of handling government affairs, and the placing of important offices in the hands of trained foreigners, was slowly but certainly taking Hawaii out of the list of political pawns of the powers and giving it the semblance, at least, of national power begotten of independence guaranteed by the great governments. First of all, Robert Crichton Wyllie was at the helm of the insular ship for state. His splendid brain, his deep knowledge of political economy, his personal acquaintance with important men abroad, his conscientious draught upon his own resources to give his Hawaiian sovereign every atom of respect that would be given a foreign ruler, his delmand that other governments treat witlh the Island government as they would with each other, the exchanging of treaties with favored nation clauses, combined with the well-ordered judicial system which was set in motion b)y John Ricord, an American lawyer whose adventurous spirit brotght him to Hawaii while his real destination was Oregon, an(d the system resulting from the establishment of the treasury board under the able supervision of Dr. Judd, caused Hawaii to emerge with the dawn of the second half of the nineteelntl century a monarchy that was beginning to give it a status of iml)ortance in world affairs. In 1850 the treaty with the United States became effective. The king and the privy council leclared Honolulu to be a city and( the capital of the king(lom; the merchants organized a chamber of commerce; a fire departmenlt was organized; and the king probably breathed more freely than for many years previous, althou-h lie still had trials to face, such as an invasion of filibusters from California, a band of which actually sailed to Honolulu on tile bark Gamll C (ock, but whose plan was frustrated bly the vigilance of the Uniited States, whose warship, the fandalia, at anchor at Honolulu, was ready with guns to frustrate tlle proposed coup. And because of this effort from the outside, Kanlehamieha II (lecilded to transfer his sovereignty and Islands Dagetirreotype of to bet utiful womei of the etorts of Kippo Kamoehao meha IV, Vaod Luoulilo. Left to right: alan Sw ri nto Brown aood Sil. thWitllalm BeeIley, WV it Abigail l laikai. wtfe of Matjor taihalo, they forined 0 o ptli hsed trio. 354 UNDER 1-AWAkIIAN SKIES to te UitedStaesthe docuiments being drawvn uip and signed ainl (lelivere(1 to the commander of the Vandalia, with instructionis that in tlhe event of certain adlverse conditions arising, such as a new series of aggressions by France, the commnander was to (open the sealedl envelope, and accept the temporary cession of the Is1a11(1 to the United States. The commander, however, withouit auithority to act', (leclilled to accept the responsibility, and inl the end~, the United States government explicitly instructed l11im to return the (locuinlent to the Hawaiian Goverlnment. But the knowledge of this act, reaching the ear of the F~rench representative, causedl France to recede from her aggressive plan, and within a few years IFrance, by g)ifts to the king and1 government, attelnlptedl to condlone her past lpolicy. CHAPTER XXII SWEET CHARM (OF ILEGE I(NDS AND FOLK-LORE SUBTLE IMAGERY OF ISLANDERS NE of the real emllbracilng clarms of a visit to the Hawaiian Islands is the ol)l)ortunity to come into intimate contact with a treasure house of legendary lore; for the Hawaiian race, l)efore its association with the Anglo-Saxon, had no written history, depending upon mouth to mouth record of its beginning, its history, its military achievements, its traditions and its authority. iike all aboriginal races, the fItawaiians believed in gods of many kinds, and there became interwoven about these gods, and goddesses, too, strange and fantastic tales. until there was developed a rare treasure-hoard of nmyths and folk-lore of unusual literary enchantment. Describing in his own language the beauties of nature, the Hlawaiian gives poetic expression to his thoughts, clothillg them in bealtiful figurative language. H-is blank verse has a deel), subtle meaning. A visit to the H-awaiian Islandls, these isles of perpetual sumImer, brings the traveler into an atmoslphere of hospitality and a subtropical wealth of beauty to le found nowhere else in the world. In the olden days, there were professional story-tellers, relating tales of war or love, as well as legends, in which humtan beings were associated with supernatural ones, who at will tool on human form, very much as in the Grecian mythologies, wherein Jupiter and Venus take on human form to indulge in love escapa(les with hlumans. Should alny of these story-tellers be possessed of a good voice for chanting the meles or songs that were an invarialle accompaniment to any story or legend of any consequence. he wxould be (doubly welcome whlerever he chose to 356 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES visit. These professional raconteurs went from place to place unless they were attached as story-tellers to the court of some powerful chiefs, when they might not wander to other feudal realms without explicit permission. Every nook, cliff, valley or plain, as well as every strip of coast, headland or stretch of water formerly had its story or legend, and was noted for some heroic deed performed by a hero or heroine of long ago, or was perhaps the scene of the hapless loves of some unfortunate youth or maiden. Lacking these, they were peopled by strange, supernatural beings, who 'took on human form at will and exercised great power for weal or woe over the human inhabitants of that locality. unfortunate yuoth or maiden. Lacking these, they were peopled by strange, supernatural beings, who took on human form at will and exercised great power for weal or woe over the human inhabitants of that locality. The legends relating to the ancient Hawaiians are replete with the sweetness of the fairy tales of Anglo-Saxon childhood, possessing the dignity of the Sagas of the Norsemen, exuding the dulcet intoxication of the tales of Persia, and suggest the sonorous, boomling intonation of the Indian. No one who reads about the Hawaiian Islands, or visits them, should feel that the subject is exhausted until some of these tales are read. Therefore, I have grouped a few which I corsiler typical of the iinagery and poetic beauty of tales that have lan exotic charm. LEGEND OF KATHUILAOKALANI "THE FLYING FIRE GOD" KAHUILAOKALANI, the Lightning of Heaven, was a high chief who came fronm an unknown world. He was a god by birth fromi his father Kulukahikapo, which means the name of the night before the new moon. and his mother Paikalani, which SUBTLE IMAGERY OF ISLANDERS 357 means the Upholding of the Heavens. These gods came to dwell upon the isle of Lanai from Kahiki, the East, whence came the Dawn of Day. At the time these gods arrived two men dwelt upon Lanai, father and son. Kunmumahanahana, or Warnth, the father, and Pakeaulani, or Soft White Tapa, the son, were sent away to Lanai by Olepau, which is the name of the tenth (lay of the moon, in the belief that the gods would consume them for some wrong they had committed. The rendezvous of these gods was at Lanai and only these two men lived upon the isle, in isolation. And while they were there in their loneliness, the thought came to them that they must cook some paha for food. Paha is the name of a plant, the leaf of which is used for food during a time of famine, and is also called kapala. When the paha was cooked and seasoned ready for eating, their first thought was to offer a prayer to the gods before they partook of their meal. And these were the fervent words of their prayer: God, here is the food. God above and below, The great God and small gods, The God that came from Kahiki, Enter and partake; make things grow and live; We and our house welcome you. From me, Pakeaulani, and( Mv father Kunmumahanahana. We were sent here to be destroyed by the gods, But fortunately by the mercy of the gods wxe live. Dig, dig for the kapu (tabu) and the kapu be yours. Dig, dig for freedlom an(l the freedom be ours. After they partook of their meal of paha, they slept, and the next (lay and the (lays following they also prayed to the gods, and this made Kahuilaokalani, known also as Kalaipahoa, love them and he showed great liking for the two lonely ones. And from that time on Pakeaulani's knowledge of his supernatural power became established. In the night called Ka-ne, leing the seventeenth night of the moon by the ancient Ha 358 UNDER HA;\AIIAN SKIES waiian calendar, a prophet namled Pa'ao arrived from Kahiki, the Imysterious East, upon the half shell of a cocoanut, cut lengthwise in the shape of a canoe, and used for the drinking of awa, an intoxicating beverage obtained from the root of the awa, the only intoxicant known to the Hawaiians of old, but really more a narcotic than an intoxicant. This draught was given the Hawaiian warriors after a battle to rest them and calm their nerves. With this tiny canoe Pa'ao commanded Pakeaulani to go forth and bring the water of Pilimoe, now called the Flying Water of Moalla, from Halawa, upon the isle of Molokai. These falls are noted for their magnificent beauty, which always attracts the eyes of strangers. Its mountain background is rich in a superb garb of deep green and purple, and their sutnlits are caught in the swirls of clouds. One almost covets the beauty of green ferns fringing the edge of the water at Moaula. Pakeaulani went to fetch the water and also the all-black pig of Kalae-"Ptaahiwa o Kalae"-as commanded by the prophlet Pa'ao. "And this duty perforne(l," said Pa'ao, "will show vou the road that will enlighten you to understand the supernatural power r1dl lbeautv of God." FIron that timne on P'akeatlani was in command of much supernatural power which enabled him to perform many strange tllilgs, and to p)repare well for the difficult journey that lie was coillmtan(led to take, for Pla'ao's instructions were of great help. Tlle commandi(l of Palao, the prophlet, was: "Go thou to MolokIai and get the water of Pilimoe, pour it in a container made of the leaf of the Piialii, the lavender taro; and also bring the Hiwa, the all-black pig of Kalae. Bring thou them and place them before me and I will show you the way that will give you the knowledge you desire, and l.ito your children and their children forever." The journey was a very long one. He sailed upon a great double canoe that had ten bowsprits. It is written in this narrative that Pakeaulani was the discoverer of the god's hidden SUBTLE IMAGERY OF ISLANDERS 359 water of Pilimoe, now known as the beautiful falls of Moaula at Halawa, Molokai. On this voyage of Pakeaulani in searcli of the water, much suffering and fatigue were endured, for he N, as deprived of much-wanted water while he was upon the ocean highway. Finally, he arrived at Molokai and sought the beautiful falls, and is said to have been the first man to have discovered the secret waters. Having no cup hle picked a leaf of the taro and formed it into a cup an(d dipped it into the waters of Pilimoe. This part of his mission fulfilled, he looked for the all-black pig of Kalae. HIe discovered it and wrapped it in soft Pili grass, called Pilimakaukai, which was used to weave capes as a protection against wind and spray while traveling in canoes. The n, with his taro cup filled with the secret water of Pilimoe, and the all-black pig of Kalae, he started homeward for Lanai in his canoe, and one could see that Pakeaulani was already usin- 1his supernatural power in the speed with which his canoe spel over the waves. But all this time the little pig was squealing, for his feet were aching. Its legs had been tied with Lai Kukanawao. a curly leaf, and it struggled for freedom. In the struggles it caused the water from the taro leaf to be spilled, and Pakeaulani discovered this loss only upon reaching Lanai. So he turned his canoe back toward Molokai again. accor(ling to the old saving, "Off to Molokai on the ocean road." But these journeys were very hard. Each time he sailed away from Molokai the pig, still struggling and squealing and attenlpting to gain its freedonl, overturlned the cup of water, and each time Pakeaulani had to return to the falls for more. After that he concluded to bring the water in his mouth, and with this idea in mind, he turned his canoe once more towards Molokai, and again visited the falls of Moaula, carrying also the Hiwa pig in his arms. He filled his mouth with water and then started once more for Lanai. Just as he had landed successfully upon the beach of Lanai, the pig gave a terrific kick and went over the canoe into a pool of salt water. Pakeaulani leaped into the water after the pig to save it while it was floating on the 360 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES water with its legs still tied, and in this effort he forgot about the sacred water in his mouth and swallowed it, and not until he had saved the pig (lid he think of the water. He sat down upon the shore and wept, for he had been in a temper with the pig and by mistake had swallowed the long-sought-for water that Pa'ao the prophet had commanded him to fetch. Anxiously he walked home to consult with his father, Kumumahanahana, whom lie ladl not seen for manyy a day and night. On the night of Kupat, being the tenth night of the moon, le arrived at his homne at Kahalapaloa, and discovered that his father had been weeping morn and night over the long absence of his beloved son. The meeting of father and son was affectionate, and it took hours before their tears were held that they miglit talk. "H-ow is your journey?" asked the father of Pakeaulani. The son replied, "I have not fulfilled the command. I have returned with only the pig of Hiwa, but the water I have not brought." The next night they had Apukuai Lauanae, or prayer, calling all the gods to come nearer to them to listen and to grant their sulpplication. They entreated the gods to aid them. The gods answered their lrayer, and Pakeaulani prepared for his next journey back to the isle of Molokai. The prop)het again commanlded Pakeaulani. "Go thou to Molokai, together with the puaa I-iwa (all-black pig). You nmust land upon Molokai betweein KIauniakakai and Kamalo. There you will see a small hill named Lehelehenui, or Big Lip, well known to the Molokaians by that name. From this place you are to watch the procession of gods as they pass, and watch for the right nioment, and then will come to you the supernatural power." On the night of Akua, the gods' night, being the fourteenth night of the moon, Pakeaulani wrapped the little pig with the pilimakaukai grass, and together they laid down and slept on the wayside of the road at the foot of the hill called Lehelehenui, waiting with his calabash (ipupalu hookala kupua kau), filled with a relish of fish and awa root as an offering to the god Kalaipahoa. He had restedl but a moment, however, when suddenly SUBTLE IMAGERY OF ISLANDERS 361 there appeared a great giant, of immense height and size, carrying a war club in his hand. He had a very fierce appearance and a terrifying expression, "one that wouldl cause the tinlid, brackish-water-drinkingo- people of Napili to flee for their lives,' according to an old Hawaiian saying about cowarls. But as frightful as K'alaipahoa made himlself a)ppear, there was not a quiver or sign of fear shown or felt by Pakeaulani. He was equal to the giant in strength and will power. Quietly and patiently, without a sound or motion, he watched the long procession of gods as they formed and started to march. It was a majestic sight. All seemed in goodl humor. It tool the greater part of the night before all could pass the place where Pakeaulani and the little black pig were resting,- It was (lawn when it endled. The morning star gave brightness and light to the traveling gods. Pakeaulani raised himself frolm his sleepiing position, and discardlel his pilimakauakaihu cloak. He placed the pig before him and took off the pili grass tllat covered it. Then he gave the pig a good squeezilln so that it beg'an to squeal from pain. IKalaipahoa andl the prophet, who were walking by, heard it squeal. Kalaipahoa said to the prophet: "I hear a pig crying at this early dawn." "Yes, the pig has much to (ldo, replied the Irophet. At this time the procession was a good distance apart from Pakeaulani, so he stood up. and with all his might andt strength gave the pig another hard squeeze, so that the pig of H-iwa squealed even louder than before. At that moment the procession of the gods had marched to the top of Maunaloa, on Molokai, and there they stood in a circle. At the center stood Kauilaokalani, called by the people, Kalaipahoa. Then Pakeaulani, with his new power, sulddenly transforme( all the gods into a great forest of trees. On that day the people of Molokai were more than surplrised when they saw this forest of trees growing upon the summit of the mount. The pIeople took their stone alzes and began to hew the trees down. Wlhen they came to Kalaipahoa in the center thev found that the sap was red like human blood. Every person that the 362 362 ~UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES sap touched was killed or died immediately, for this sap was a (leadly poison, aud it was because of this that Kauilaokalaui was calledl Kalaipahoa, meaning hewn with a stone adze. lMvost of the population of Molokai was destroyed by the sap from this deadly tree. The chiefs and high priests treasured the wood of the tree because of its supernatural powers. It was also ben~eficial as a medicine when properly usedl andl given by the kahunas, or (loctors. After that episode Pakeaulani was in full possession of supernatural power, and on the night of Matile (faint), that is, 'the twenity-ninith night of tile moon, the Prophet Pa'ao returned to tile island of Hawaii 'to build for himiself a lleiau (temple) at LUpolu, tKolala, adjoining tile village of Honoipu, and this lleiau wvas called Mookinii, and is still standing, but in ruins, todlay. Ka mehallehia tile Great valuedl tile god Kalaipahoa, aild it is saidl that throuigh this godlihe gained much strength and power il bril(il1(ig the group of islands togetiler, to which Hawaiians refer as tile "ulokuptini o Hawaii nei." From this tree of Kalaipahoa anl idol was hewn antid worshipped, andl it is saidl ill tile traditions of tile I-awaiians tllat the infiuneice of tllis i1ol. built up kiillgdoms andl overtllrew themi. For thle kahunas tile idlol was thle means of tileir livelihood. Tlley would scrape tlle poisonous wood, alld by taking tlle powder thlts scralbel and llixillg it with cocoanuit and axva, placingy it in a hlalf cocoanuit shlell cup, the kalluinas couldl, with tlleir uncanny power, selll it wvherever tiley wished to (lestroy or to protect. Sonletinles it took tile fornl of a ball of fire andl liglltedl tlle way as it sped tllrougll spce Therefore, it was also called Akuia alli lele, or "Thle Flyillg Fire God." It was also used by the kI.ahltas as all immllediate heart poison, pllacedi in food or dIiMl,:k to carry out a ileinous desigril. It is said to be absolutely tasteless, the victiml never suspectillg its presenlce. Ille sacredl Water of Moanila, aild tlle little all-black pig.? 011, Pakeauilanii, wvitll his stupertnatural power, finally llrouoght thleml both safely to Lanai. SUBTLE IMIAGERY OF ISLANDERS 363 LEGEND OF KAHALA-O-PUNA BEAUTIFUL TABU MAIDEN OF MANOA THE superstitious dread of the elements in the native Hawaiian mind has, from olden times to now, created a myriad of legends. To them, the rain, the wind, the beautiful rainbow, the grumblings of mother earth (which are attributed to the fiery goddess Pele), have strange and mystic meanings and warnings. Thus their imaginative minds associated the wind, the rain and the rainbow, which always prevail upon the summits of the moulntains overhanging Manoa valley, with strange peoples, princes -lnd princesses, and tales of tragedy and love. The legend of the beautiful Princess Kahala-o-puna, the "tabued"' maiden, whose beauty reathe friendship. Queen Emma had a home at K1,alaekao, Ewa, where she entertained exclusively the memblers of Elaxvaiian royalty and her macllny friends of the British colony. She also enttertained extensively at her home, called "Rooke IHlouse," at I'eretanuia and Nutnalu streets. IJwixaiian families and the B11ritish colony were alvays her favored guests, for she Awxas rearedl fromt childhood byr Dr. Rooke, an Entiglish physician, and his wife. 11tut the grandest functions she gave (luriing the reig-n of her lmsband, I\ainelhameha MIV were those given at her country home in Nunanu valley, "iHanai akaalamaku," now the hiome of the society known as the Dmiaughters of Hawaii, who prchliasedl the old residence to preserve it. The two homes of Mr. and 1\rs. C. Afong, in Nunalmu and ini Waikiki, were the favored rendezvous of the navy and exclusive society-, where halls anid dinner lparties were frequent and alw-ay-s MivAnn trqi'ha inlq aaNviii King ha'elalfl 1V degignlaind -I'leRoe aI' liii I"'lifii',' ans th illot ~wiu mnmnnanI' Ii ohis n' gn. 424 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES brilliant. During his service as Privy Councillor of the Hawaiian government, and afterwards while he was Chinese consul, Mr. Afong was a lavish entertainer. Mrs. Afong was par —Hawaiian and part-American, with a slight strain of English in her blood. I-er father, A. Ht. Fayerweather, of New York, and New Canlaan, Conn., was the first white sugar planter in the Hawaiian Islan(ls, and was one of the first Masons to organize a society in the Islands back in the 'forties. Mrs. Afong's mother was Mary I:eckley, the daughter of Captain George Beckley, the English friend and military adviser of Kamehameha I. A story that Mrs. Afong was Portuguese is simply ridiculous. Dr. John McGrew, called the "Father of Annexation," was also among the hospitable entertainers during the Lunalilo and Kalakaua regimes, his wife being considered one of the best gowned women of Honolulu. The old lEnglish families, the Montgomerys and the McKibbinls, were exclusive entertainers, their tennis parties being features. The beautiful Neumann girls were all belles. Their father was the IHon. Paul Neumann, of California, attorneygeneral in Kalakaua's reign and his close friend. "The Old Plantation," the home of the W\ards, opposite historic Thomas Square, was a home of exclusive hospitality, and though the years have passed steadily, it is still a charming home. Its rooms hark back to the Civil War days, for its lofty ceilings and tlle old-fashioned furniture take one back to the decades of crinolines. The owner, Mr. Hart, was a fiery Southerner and namedI his Ihomes "Old Plantation'" and "Sunny Soutl." "Old Plantation"' is one of the few lhomes of an older clay which still preserve the old-style gardens, cocoanut groves. There were the Walker girls of Nuuanu, who were belles in their (lays. The Widelann g-irls were lavish entertainers. The visitor in THawaii (luring Kalakaua's reigln found a rare andl charmlingl atmosplllere of hospitality, and it was little wondler that writers, explorers, scientists, painters, travelers and wealthy len from Saln Francisco and New York, owners of palatial yachts, should visit Honolulu, meet the king and partake of his YESTERDAYS OF HAWAII NEI 425 own lavish hospitality. And it is little wonder that naval officers whether of the American, British, French, Russian, German, Italian, Brazilian or Argentine navies, longed for assignment to the Pacific so that now and then the anchors of their ships could be dropped in Naval Row, Honolulu, across the harbor from the town, for they knew that a cordial welcome awaited them ashore, not only in the palace of the king and the homes of the hospitable residents, but among the fairest of Hawaii's mnaidens, and that a flower given tc a sweetheart of that day, brings up treasured memories when it is found again after many lecades pressed between the leaves of a forgotten book. Now and then when a kamaaina Honolulan straightens up shelves of books, or cleans out ancient desks and attics, a flood of memories flows before him, or her, when an ornate "Carte de Danse," adorned with the embossed crown of the Hawaiian monarchy, and appearing to be resting upon a tasseled pillow a(nd surroundedl by ornamental borders of elaborate design and colorinl(; comes to view. That was the age when the jasminee scent was borne on the breezes everywhere at eventide. At four in the afternoon the maidens strung leis of starry jashiine buds that resembled pearls, which gradually opened in their hair when they wore the fragrant decorations at a ball that night. The little dance card was intended, when the palace chamberlain ordered it printed, to be of permanent value. He probably had a romantic thought stored away that in the long years to come some of the belles and beaux attending the ball that night in the palace, with the king and his queen viewilng the formal throng in the brilliant throne-room, might sometime come upon the card and dreamr over the joyous and thrilling incidents of this night of the distant past. It was printed on heavy cardboard and folded. Upon the cover was the (late, probably October 28, 1889, and upon the back cover, within the gorgeous golden border, was the golden crown above the familiar "KIK," surrounded by the motto of Kamehameha III, "Ua mau ke ea o ka aina i ka pono." (The life of the land is perpetuated in righteousness.) 426 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES But within! Al, within! If the cover and the (late now recall terlsichorean memories to a belle or beau of that day-now perhaps a matron who has long passed the half century of life, or a formal man of business, a captain of industry, perchance a retire(l ca)italist-the two narrow pages within reveal a tale of romance and alventure, and perhaps of love-all that went with the brilliancy of a gay revel in the palace throne-room, when officers of the navy an(d marine corps, perhaps of both American and 11ritish warships, were ashore in their full dress uniforms all aglitter with gold lace (a corps of men in those days when the marine officers were described as "very gay fellows,' and the navy "dashing"). There is the "Order of Dances' on one page, and, ol)osite, "I ng'ag-ements." IHow old-fashioned and pIleasural)le the pretty "Souvenir Carte (le Danse" numbers read! 1But where is the "lox Trot," the "()ne Step," the "Hesitation," the "Ragtime," the "Charleston?" T'he tiny ornate p)ages recall, however, the music of Strauss"The 1:lue D)anube,' and other waltzes, those dream compositions wlhen people ldanced for the sheer love of the beauty of (laacing, andl had no thought of indlulging in the acrolatic exhibitions such as the "Charleston" of short-life. There was the old-time, (lignifie(l lanlcers, such as was (lanced half and three-quarters of a century ago in America and1(l England, at the ol(l army posts ulnler the shadow of (Old Glory andl the [Union lack, when old as well as the youn1g, laughed andl cantered to the "right" and to the 'left,'" olbeyilg the stentorian conmands of the "callers.' Do you remember, you matrons an(l staid old business men of to(lay, when vou were rollicking young women an(l (lashing y(oull- gentlelell of the refulgent Kalakata reign? (r the brilliant years of the Kamehameha regimes, when you baslked in the sullsnhine of the royal court-opera boaffe though some cynics pronounce it-when you received, in the Kalakaua (lays particularly, a big envelope emblossed with a golden crown and within it found a big card with gold lettering reading like this: YESTERDAYS OF HAWAII NEt 2 427 The Chamberlain of the Household Is Commnanded by HIS MAJESTY To invite Miss.T..........Io a Ball At lolani Palace oin the 28th Day of October, at S o'ClockFu tll IDress 'Thenr that evening a Carte (le Danse was received. The lancers was announcedl, to be (lancedl to the music of the white-coated musicians of the Royal Hawaiian Mfilitary B'and, andl a iiavy officer hadl already lpresented1 himiself, and pencilled tipon the car'te the nam-e " Barnett." Lets see-yes, hie's Major-(;eneral Georg-e Barnett, of the Uinited States AMarine Corps todlay, wvith a, brilliant war record, but lin 1880 hie was just dapper Lient. (Geor-ie" Barnett, of the 01(1 woodleil-walledl warship Iroqpuois, but as (lashinig todlay as thenr, despite the flowy of years. Then c~ame a waltz, the mutsic '1001 Nlights and ileftr it was penicilled ''Sims" ('or it may have been back in 188/7, or further back, but that matters notl. "Billy'' Sims, the (directing admiral of the American fleet oversears in the World War, friend of King Georg-e, p~encilled his name onl the Carte (le Danse of mlany a Honolu~)1tlu belle, and hie danced well. MVany dowag-ers of today recall ''Billy" Sims as a (lashing bean. The Jpolk-a (one has 'to say it twice to recall that there was ever such a (lance 'I, to the music of "Dragyoons,'' and the name pencilledl onl the carte, "Blandin.'' jovial Ensign Blandin, of the Allert an1( Nipsi'c, who wvent (lown withi the Mai'ne in Havana hiarbor. Thiere is the Yo rk, with Paymnaster I-arry Webster's name opplosite'. TJhe girls (lote(I On 1-arry, for lie was a wonlderful (lancer. Th ie waltz again, whirled to the (lelightful mnsic of the "Miakdo,'' for (Gilb)ert and Sullvnwr thene in their hlevday of popularity. Opposite isthe name, "fIfilary,'' meaning HIl1ary P. Tones, anl admiral of the higThest ranlk today, but thene an ensign, wh-o arrived at Ilonolulu, in 1889 onl the iN`i/'ic from Apia, Samoa, where she Formr roe a pa Iitce Holnolu, oteiald ii. Decemiber, 1882, iby Kin:g Kalakaua iand Queie Kapiolani and last used as a roll paIie by Q ueei,iiiilaiT 189-18i-i 9i 5 whie the nionareiy i avas Oei tlron i. Thle building beuir ae the ExeTutive Builiriig oif tiie Rlepubliei of HIlawii iln 1893, aund in 1900 beeame the Capitol al the Territonr of HawllAii. The beatliful old tile r00mn, lON used a- liegislative chamber, appeals allost as it did i the dais of the m Irlelq. YESTERDAYS OF HATWAII NEI 429 was battered in the hurricane which (lestroyed the warships of three nations. But his fame rests on the fact that he brought to Honolulu the "two-steps," and inducted the girls into the mysteries. Can you remelmber, girls of the monarchy, the "schottische," played to the tune of "Fifteen Dollars?' and the waltz played to the divine melody of "The Gypsy BIaron?" a melody which now seems as much Hawaiian as any real Hawaiian song. The "Gypsy Baron," with its dreamy, entrancing air, made a Hawaiian moonlit night one never to be forgo:ten, especially if it was played at the royal palace at a lall. In addition to the dash and gayety of the navy and marine corps, there was the adde(l brilliancy of the diplomatic corps and the court attaches and ladies of the court. There were other balls in other years and mtonths, and there were officers coming and remaining awhile and going away on cruises again, but comingo back now and then until they were kamaainas in spirit, andl, let it be said softly and(l gently, the return of the warships was eagerly awaited by the island sweethearts, haole and Haawaiian alike. There are elderly women in Honolulu to(lay, grandmothers, or rather great-grandmothers, who dimly recall the (lays when Admlniral Wilkes came to Honolulu with his frigate, a three(lecker, on which they danced, going to the ship in hoop-skirts an(l low necks in the afternoons, and when they left the ship they were met ashore by native runners and crude two-wheeled and four-wheeled carts in which they were placed and escorted to their homes, their iuniformed beaux from the ship trotting alongside, for the runners traversed the streets swiftly. Then came the later days of the Lackawatnna, 7'Tscarora, Moiicmtn, WlIachiisctts, Portsmoutha, Vandalia, [fartford, Adams, of the American Navy: and the Champion with Captain Rooke and his group of fine officers, the Rcindcer, andl the L'Espeile, and mall other warships flying the ensign of England. Then came French and Russian andl Austrian warships, warships from all over the world, even the Argentine and Japan, while the Italian 430 430 UNDER HAWXIJAN SKIES warships always had a member of the royalty aboard, a fact whiich presaged many wonderful receptions aid (lanices ashore.ndl royal times alboard for the _irls. There was just as- much interest among1~) the girls, of the Kala-. katia Il~eriodl in going aboardl a xvarshil) to (lance away an afternoon or evening onl tile quarterdeck, as In go1ing to a bail at tile ipaiace. At the 01(1 boat landJing in Quecn street the giris and their chaperons were miet byv junior officers witih launchies, or the s1hips' ligg loats rowed by sturdly bluiejackets, and escortedl in fiue style to tile wvarshilps whicil were usually anchored in "Naval Row" across tile llarior near Sumner's islet or the ligllthou~Itse, very far awvay from (lown townl. The warships were not too (listant, ilowever, for immedliatelyv a warship dlropp1edl her aincihor ill tile row a telephone was placed1 on board, alld hour after hour tile lbelles of Honolulu conversed over the wire with tile officers andl ladle their elqg-a-ements for (linner lparties, horseback rides, (lips at the b)each, picnics anld all mannier of goodi tims I Iiihe telephone was tisedl so mutch that tlle operator saidi it often becamec clop'o-ed "b~ecause so much ta-ffy wvas going over it."' (_)ften tile king( wonldi go aboard to atteln(l the afternoon (lances. attiredl, as a rule, in white fla-nnels, oftenl with a dark roundlabout coat ain(l straw hat, attenldedl by the -young princes, _DIN)avd and Kuhio, Vand the chamberlain-, Col. Cuirtis P). laikeat, whlo, in Ilis (lay wvas also one of the gallants, and1 who, as envoy, ext raordinarv alaid mlinister p)lenipotentiary, vi sitedi every court of EuItrope, or by1 Col. Tames WV. Robertson, or young- Purvis. The (lances onl tile quarterdeck wvere ever-to -be-rememibered occas.ions. Eroml 2 to 5:30 o'clock the shinps handl playedI and tile officers attended strictly to tile bulsiness of entertaining and (loing it royally', serving- ices andl salads, Vallil there was alwvays a lbeautiftil silver puinchbowl, for aboard each warship there was a past master in the act of concoctinlg the most w~londierfuil punlch ev-er tastedl. HIlere were later (lays, wvhel1 tile Char-leston was in H-onoluilu, when tile admiral, captain,an(1 officers not onlyv gave balls on the quarterdleck. hut entertainedl fornmallv ashore at the Royal YEISTERDAYS OF HAW~AIJI N EI 3 431 lHawvaiian Hotel. Akdmiral K1-imberley and( his officers entertainledl aIboardl the Voondo/all in 1888, andl the commander and officers of the flagshilp Mloh icon entertainedl almost as lavishly, but the!lVach ussetts, which was at Honoluilt in 1883, established a reputation for exceptional hospitality that was hard1 to excel. Wlhen the Tutscarora, Portsinouth and Rcnidea visitedl Honolulu in the 'sevenities, Admiral Belknap, thenr a captain, became one of Honoluilus favorites and a good friend of HawNaii. Among the junior officers were William H1. Whilting, later anr admiral. who married a Honolulu belle, whiose famne previously rested on the fact thiat he servedl with Admiral Farrag-ut on tlhe JHartford at the battle of Mobile -Bay (luring the Civil War, a veteran who (lid l in Berkeley in 1924. There was Ellicot, a middyi, no-w anl admira, andFletcher, now ani admiral, juiors in the 'eAihtie who wvalked In the funeral procession to thie royal mauisoleuim onl the occasion of the funeral of ()ueen. E-mm-a. There wvas Admiral B1rown, and his aide, Lieutenant BflowN1, during Ill ioka —t lani's reign, and Adimiral Huigh Rodman and Victor Blue, and Mlajor T'Tippy" Kane, and ''Deanle"''Miller, dashinog blades of the marine corps. Thle towulies grouipedl together inl the o01(1 and famous "Mlaile Club'' and entertained the officers ashiore at dances in the oldI Roy-al Hawaiian H-otel. The beauix of that day were "Jiimuiy' IDowsett, H arry Whi1tney, ''lack" lDowsett, ''Bonnie" -A [onsarrat, "Cabbie'' Bkrown. Hlenry Mac farlane, Arthutr Richardson, Cecil Brown, CU. Sani P),arker, Bruice Cartwrk1 —ht, and many othiers but man'y liav7e passed to the beyond. Later on the "Townies-," who were alwNays cordliallv welcomedI aboard included "Nedl' D oxvsett, Faxonl Bishop, "E'd." Tennev, Dr. George H~erbert, Sam and "Kauk",a" anl " lamie'' Wilder., "Tonimy" Cummins, "Willie" Graham, Captain Haley, Captain Smythe, Francis H-atch., Curtis lauikea,-i lJimmie" Bmoyl, Antone Rosa, Sam M~aikai., "johunie" WValker, Herman Focke, Henri McGrew, Dr. C. B). Wood, genial Paul Neumann. wh-lose house was thie "home of tile navy," Topev Afong., son of the Ch1-inese millionaire, Toney recently servingy as 432 UNDER HA\WAIIAN SKIES governor-general of Canton; Paul Isenberg, -Harry von Holt, "Joc" Carter, Mark Robinson, "Mannie" Phillips, Sam Louisson, Sam Monsarrat, Carl Wideniann, the Wodehouse boys, the McInerny boys, George Potter, Montgomery Mather, the "dude," and "Charley" Deering. Many are still in Hawaii, some whitehaired and full of reminiscences of the "golden days." The finding of an old carte de danse recalls many pleasing memories of old palace and quarterdeck (lays in Hawaii nei, and brings to mind the poem which a naval officer, popular in those days, wrote when his warship had sailed out of old Honolulu harbor leaving all the entrancing Honolulu days and nights b1ehind, the strum of the guitar and the tinkle of the ukulele, for he, too, was sad when he said: The breeze blows down Nuuanu's vale And wafts us o'er the swelling tide; The jessamine scent borne on the wind Comes to us fainter from the shore; Nuuanu's vale is growing dim; the harbor's past —we're on the sea; Abeam are brelkers rolling in Upon the l)each at Waikiki. Leahi's peak looms 'gainst the sky, fair I-Honolulu's lost to view. We'll oft recall these isles gone by, And all the fair ones that we knew; Dark eyes their witching glances cast, Sweet voices sang in the lanai Of m1oonlit rays and hours passed 'Neath tropic skies in happiness. Fiil up your g-lasses, let us drink To all our friends we've left behind; (od-speed to vou and all yo(ur race. For dearer friends we'll never meet. CHAPTER XXVII ANCIENT AND MIODERN KINGLY SYMBOLS NEASY lies the lhead that wears a crown' was a phrase which apparently madle a deep impression upon King Kalakaua; first, because he had reached tlhe throne ly election of the legislature; and also because in fact there was no crown in H-awaii; and finally, because lie was impressed witl the knowledge that the Hlawaiians, for centuries, had been governed by rulers who were born to rule. IHe was a high chief under the old feudal system, and of nolle lineage, but that fact did not prevent his feeling that there was just a something lacking in his kingship that irked. I-is tour of the world( in 1881, when he visited and was formally received with royal honors at the capitals of other monarchs, further impressed him with the necessity of staging a coronation in Honolulu that would reflect all the glitter of royal symbols of the Old World. For had he not been received by the Emperor of Japan, the King of Siam, Rajahs of India, the Pasha of Egypt, the King of Italy, the President of France, the Crown Prince of Germany, him who is now the Recluse of Doom, and who staged a mighty military review to open the eyes of the Polynesian ruler, and the Queen of England, to say nothing of the President of the United States? Therefore, after this royal circumnavigation the king's ministers began to carry out the provisions embodied in appropriations passed by the legislature to have a formal coronation on February 12, 1883, the ninth anniversary of his election as king. The function was not held, however, without considerable opposition, almost bitter at times, on the part of the foreign residents and citizens, and when the coronation actually took place, many people, Iawaiians and foreigners alike, decided to remain aloof. In the forenoon of that eventful day, upon an attractive pavilion especially built andl placed in front of the palace steps, a 434 434 ~UNDER H-AW'AIIAN SKIES,structure which is now uised as a bandstand inl the palace groiindls, Kalakatna and hIls consort, Kapiolani, wvere formially crowned. The king( received his crown from the Chancellor, Chief justice A. 1". judd, and, like Napoleon, himself lplaced the glitteringC lbatllble upon hIs head, and likewise placed its coulnterp~art u)Ofll the bead of his consort. Similarly, the newvly made and gyorgeonis swordl of state, thle royal feather mantle of Kamiehameha I, the ring of kingly dhg nity, the sceptre of kin~gly power and justice, wvere bestowed upon the king., It was a regal function performed lin the presence of a gathering, of officials representing the United States, Great Britain, Urance, Geriman~y, Swedenl and Norwvay, lapan, Portuigal, the Netherlands, Ileigium, Denmark, i\'texco, RKuIss i a the officials of the king"domi, officer~s of Am'~-erican, B-ritish and F rench warships, incluidingo 1. B-. MAf's Mittine, U. S. S. IL achiiis~scfs, U. S. S. LacHazanna,z and the Firench warship Imiiiiwi There was a g-litteringf aild costly dip(111)y of uniforms and gol-)d lace, swordls awl other military aud (lilplomatic trapping's. Thie ladies wvere roibedl ii beauitiful. toilettes, many with long trainis anl (lressc s cut lowv at the neck. There was a guard of honor for the procession from 'the, palace to the pavilioin and return. 1.1111eiatIN fllwing thle placing of the crowns,.tlsboe I saluite fromi shore anid ship batteries. The mantle was a xvondlerful robe, (leclaredl to have been that acttialv worn by the Conqueror and composed of at least five thousand feathers of the 0-0 bird. Tecrowns canie from Paris, where they were masde. by seIa ordlers transmittedl by the office of the minister of foreign affai-rs. That of Kalakania wvas comlposed of a fillet of gold one inch inl widlth, set onl each e('g)e wvith. one hutndred and twenty small diatiwondls. 'Midway inl the fillet wvere set twenty oplsa15 alternatingc wvith eighIt emeral (s and as many ruibiesv at thle back, where there were set in thle place of the eml'eralds and rubies, six well1 — cut jewels of a (leep) redldish black and~ highly polishedl. At the front and back., and onl each side the fillet was suirmouinted by a Deatlh hivered over K{ilg nalakaua when this pilcture was takess an N vetb er 28, t890, aboard the U S. S. S. Chirleaios. The er waiser tws rcoeyig His Majties fram Honellhlu to FSai raneiseo to entmble hi lto regain his health. The vessel reached the Goideit Gltie Deiember 4, Is J-I unary tie linig died:at the Pal:ee Hotel. The officers of the warship alre gtlrouped ith the kilg, ( Promi hloto in the late Quee liliiukalani 's collection,) 436 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES goldlen M[altese cross, in the arms of which were set forty-eight diamonds, each arm having three. In the center of the cross in the front was a magnificent diamond of about six carats weight, and on the sides were others a little smaller. A splendid carbluncle glowed in the center of the cross at the back. There were other fillings of gold and studding of jewels, making it gorgeous enough to have been placed upon a head of a sovereign of a l'ulropean power. Springing from the fillet over the crimson cap of velvet, were eight bars of gold, each uniting under the globe, the bars being emblematic of the union of eight islands under one rule. Sturmounting the globe was a Maltese cross set with brilliant diamonds. That was the only time the crowns were After the overthrow of the monarchy in 1893, and the depositioln of Q(ueen ILiliuokalani, the crowns became the prey of men of the newly organized "regu-lars" of the army of the Provisional ((Goverment, composed of men more or less rough. One of them, 1lyan, found the box and case containiing Kalakaua's crown, broke it up, removed most of the jewels. Officers discovered the men gamllling in the basement of the former palace and using gems to match coins. Not until later was Ryan told that the stones lie had removed were valuablle. He thought they were merely colore(l stones, sollme of which were of value. The largest dialondl he sent to his sweetleart in Missouri, from whom it was recovered and returned to the Hawaiian government by the attorney-general of MIissouri. The soldiers had looted the crown and used the gems as pawns in their dice-throwing. Two-thirds of the gems, it is said, were recovered. Ryan was arrested and inprisoned, but later deported. IFor more than thirty-five years the battered crown remained sealed in its shattered leather case in the vault of the Archives of Ilawaii when it wTs opened, in January, 1924, and examined by the commissioners and custodian. The legislature, upon their appeal, voted a sum of money for the restoration of the crown, and today it looks as thoulgh new, although the "jewels" are svntlhetic geenls. KINGLY SYMBS '';I)S 437 The "puloulou," or tabu-stick, used at the coronation, symbolizing the protection that the laws afford all, and marking, also, the limits of approach of the king's subjects, was the tusk of a narwhal and was seven feet long, and bore a goolden globe near the sharp point. Hanging from the globe was a miniature of the ITawaiian crown, engraved with the national motto of Hawaii. It was shown in public at the state obsequies for the late Prince Jonah Kalanianaole, in January, 1922, and is now in the Bishop Museum. His Majesty on this occasion wore the white uniform of the Guards, with a white helmet and plume of red, white and blue. His breast was adorned with the glittering orders of many powerful royal governments. Nearly four thousand persons watched the ceremony from seats and the same number watched from other points of vantage. Among the treasured relics of residents of lawaii today are the viery large cards of invitation both to the coronation ceremony and to the ball in the evening, but particularly interesting are the cards that requested the recipients to attend the state dinner at the p)alace with King Kalakaua as royal host. CHAPTER XXVIII THE "BAYONET CONSTITUTION" GAUNT REBELLION OVERTURNS ANCIENT THRONE HE gaunt specter of revolution stalked through Hawaii, but, with one exception, was bloodless, the first revolt having its tragic ending when Kauaians, captained by George IHumelhume, the dissatisfied prince of Kauai in the early years of the reign of Kamehameha II, rebelled against the sovereignty of the son of Kamnehameha the Great. The first revolt against constituted authority, little more than a hundred years ago, was that of one prince against another, and was the last of sanguinary conflicts for supremacy. It was nearly seventy years before revolution again stalked into tlhe midst of the people, now conversant with the ways of peace, their earlier warlike ardor leavened by long contact with prosperity and the lulling influence of happy living in a land of plenty, where the sea and land easily gave sustenance to the isolate(l inhabitants. Kaunmualii, the principal chief of Kauai, and husband of Queen Kaahulmanu, she having married him after the death of the Conqueror, diedl inl Honolulu in May, 1824, where he had been held a prisoner, an(l a (lispute arose about his division of territory which led to an unhappy and bloo(ly contest-the first and last battle since the introduction of Christianity. After the leath of lKautlualii the government of the little island was given by a council of cliefs to Kahalaia, nephew of the great chief Kalanimoku. HFe was a young man, and according to Sheldon Dibble, poorly equippled for his duties. lThe peolle of Lauai manifested their dislpleasure by various acts of insubordination and particularly by the wanton destruction of public plroperty. Two weeks later Kalanimoku arrived TH_ I"AYNE IO ST IT1 (N" 439 onl Kauai from ()ahu, accompanied by IKekauluolli, the "Q( een Mother." (eorg-e 1-umelume was gained over to the side of the rebels. Ilumehume was one of the Haawaiian youths who were in the United States when the first mission was org-anized in New England for gospel service in Hawaii. He joined tle bandl aind returned to Hawaii on tlhe llhaddclts. ie had spenlt somlle timne il the school at Cornwall, Colnnecticut. f-e lhad two l)rass field pieces. He yieldedl and became a rebel. A vessel was desplatched to ()ahu by Klalanimoku for reinforcements. Tllese were sent under 1Hoapili. The nlissionaries dlrew the attention of tlhe chlliefs to the (hristian belief that war couldl be colnucted lhu1llanlely. The chiefs agreed to thlis new plrinciple. I:loapili le(l the goverlmroent forces. lie wou1ld not perllit tlhe Sabblath to le dlesecrated lb war, an(l for a day tile troops rested. The following day tlhe forces were dlrawn upl il battle array. i Ioap)ili commanded silence andl prayers were offered. He then shouted: "Soldiers, attentionll There is no place for us to retreat! o Oahu, no T\laui, no Hawaii. O(ahu is lbefore us, IMaui is before us, Hawaii is l)efore ius. Those islan/... iii~: ~ ~,~iisX, 'ii} t~ fj., lox ti Il~lll re(itIit 'rk $ inJ~ur.~ l lle! i gT +@ e laliX F~>~ eg til rtl lsues >..e.w iaisovrrl~t sT ~i " Q ' x; i d )a g 1 "~ eyate c l1i 100m.1F an{.l..leui) i.Xrs.R. s 446 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES After a day of battle, during which sharpshooters riddled the bungalow and chipped up the palace considerably, the Wilcox men evinced a desire to surrender. Wilcox, by telephone, informed the officers stationed in the government building, which faced the palace from across King street, that he was ready to surrender. They were informed that if they desired to give up, they would be permitted to open the doors and, leaving their arms, run out into the yard with their hands above their heads. Meanwhile a white tablecloth had been hanging out of a window. The bungalow garrison ran out and the revolution was at an end. The battle resulted in a loss of six revolutionists killed and twelve wounded. In the trials at the October term of the Supreme Court, Wilcox stated that his plans were to obtain possession of the palace and the king; have him sign a new constitution, which he (Wilcox) had prepared, restoring the old prerogatives to the king and people. In all these plans he claimed, with amazing audacity, to have the royal sanction. At the trial before a native jury he was acquitted, under the ancient belief that "the king can do no wrong;" hence, the jury found no treasonable act in carrying out the king's behests. Wilcox was one of several Hawaiian "youths" educated abroad. Tle, with two others, were educated in the military school at Turin, Italy. This foreign education gave him the glamour of military prowess-which he really did not possess-and his picturesque uniform was enough to make him quite a grand figure. When he was arrested he was wearing his Italian uniform. The foreign residents claimed that the constitution of 1887 did not go far enough, and that there continued five more years of abuses. King Kalakaua died in San Francisco on January 20, 1891. I-e left HEonolulu on the U. S. S. Charleston, in December, 1890. ITe was then a very sick man. The signs of a dread malady were already alpparent in his hollowed cheeks. Diabetes was his ailment. HTe probably realized that he was near his end, for his final list of instructions, written on a small piece of paper the night before he sailed, included a request that certain TRE' "1k-O N'lA' )NE T )NSTfITTI(U)N 44 447 work be (lone for him at the Royal Mfauisoleuim. Ile was the Iguest of the American nation on his cruise. In California, for a few weeks hie traveled, hut was stricken while in the southern part of the State. On January 20 he passed away in the I'alace Hotel. IJnmedliately, the United States oovernment took charge of the body andl seit it back on the Chiarlcstoni. Honolulu had been gTayly decorated in anticipation of the kingy's return. There were to be receptions and balls. When the Charleston rounded Diamond Head, her flag at half-m-ast, draped in black, her yards cock-billed, the people knew their beloved kingT was (leatl. Immedliately the gay colors were chianged to black andl other dlecorations hastily removed. Never had a community met a loss of tile kiinred with such a shock. Then, there was sincere regret that "Rex" had Ipassedl. The body was removedl to the palace, where the casket was met by the gorief-stricken widow. The body lay in state at the palace antl the futneral procession was one of the most imposing evm-r seen ini Honolulu. Tiliuiokalani immediately took the oath and was proclaimed queen. IIhe opening months of her reio'n gave birth to the hope that there would be a stroyg. conservative government. Robert Louis Stevenson, writing from Snamoa, congratulated the queen upon her accession and expressed the hope that she would lbe a conservative and "not lavish" sovereign. Butit it developed that the quieen. possessed all the dlespotic instincts of a ruler in ancient times. In this respect she was an anachronism. Liliniokalani, however, niust not lhe blamed for all things, any more than Kalakania. They were the result of the times. The times had advanced quickly. There vere 1olitical intriguers on the opposing" side. Opportunism was not altogether a moinopoly with the native sovereigns. The queen was leterminel to govern personmdly, and not through a ministry, except it be one that was administering, affairs thirough her personal appointments an l which would lbe responsible to her, not to the people. She did not wish to consult the w-ill of the people, and in a measure, she felt humiliated 448 448 ~UNDE'R HAWVAIIAN SKIES by the termis of the constitution wrested f rom her brother in 187 Jer selection of cabinets appeaed to be wvithout an appro)priate reg'ardl for the effects produced upon the people. The Americans felt that tlle queen had thrown (lown the gage of battle, and were watchful for fear their righits wvould be jeopardlizedl. She attempted to dictate to her cabinets. Then, not fiuiu~ilg them as jpliaut as desired, resigynations were forced, and cabiiiet after cabinet was appointed andl resigned. She wvas a brilliant wvoman but knew not how to avoid trouble. Persistent strugg-les between the opposingr parties caused the legislative session of 1892 to be prolonged for eight months,andl (luiring that time there were four chianges in the ministry. Onl May 20 several persons, including Robert Wilcox, wvere arrested anid charged wvith a conspiracy, to establish a republic, but were finally (lischargedl. The last week of tile legislature saw tile session pass a bill granting a francilise for the estab11limhlent of a lottery ill Hawaii, and on jantiary 12, 1893, the leg(islatuire votedl out of office a cab —inet which is said to have been composed of very able all( uiprigght nmen. lile next cabinet appointed at once madle matters wvorse. It was composed of Messrs. Parker, Peterson. Colburn alld C~ornwvell, and mlet witil genleral illdignation. A new constitution had beeni drawn upl, ready for the queen to p~roclaiml. The queen had privately autitorized it. It wvas (lesiglledl to remove the prillcilal checks upon the sovereig'n and tile existimlg gutarailtees of the indielpei-idence of tile supreme cotlrt, allil only Hawaiian subjects were to be allowed to vote. It was plallned to proclaim tilis constitution at tile palace on jailuary 14, tile (lay uipou wlicll tile legislature was to adjouril, in the presence of the legislators, mlelllbers of thle diploilatic corps aind tile cilief officers of state. Govermimeilt troops were to be (irawn upl in arills. Svmpatllizers wvere to fill tile grounds. At tile last momen1cit, Ilowever, tile c~ibiniet refused to sign tile doctiment, and imlmedliately appealed to leadiilg citizenls to mlake all effort to lprevenlt tile queen froul carrvilng out Iler revoluitiollary (lesigil. lile qteeln tirgedl, tile ealbiilet (lellirrCe. After a long discussion : - --- -" Cj ~s o?-'~3cri cJ F1 I.T':=1 5: la' tiui cr"C: ~i r; ss J,li clL ~ C " =i r t-I: icl Rt d $a ti. r r i i1r/ $ f,. - f; i" ~.i~ " " s tt:, c w iI i wi~k ~" i: ilHo: ibI: m ~H;-a se g:""" -~~ r," L"; t a;Ir: R;=": ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~-r , ii r L,. c~~ ;ir;,, *-~-i iiaBS a ct ai 8~ 1 8 c I e E i= 1 c; r.,:~. aio ~~, * *I~ P,d FI~ 1;~~ i~, 5,:;~ p" i-r,L rJ UT ri: i.; w ccr F-~ E~ i ~agi, rrJ " ~~ Pg ".*~ m u2 i~~;* iC~' a r: i" jmni; "-i-~ — i it, W 450 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES the queen yielded to some extent and announced that the promulgation of the constitution would be postponed for a short time. Saturday, January 14, 1893, dawned clear and beautiful and no one dreamed that it was to be one of the most eventful days in Hlawaiian history. It did not seem tliat a queen would inmperil her position by attempting anything so radical. It was between 1 and 2 o'clock in the afternoon that the community was startled by information that a coup d'etat was in progress. It was almost too amazing to believe. The political changes of the past few days, the renewed vote of want of confidence, a secret attemplIt on the part of the queen to overthrow her new ministry, her secret interviews, the signing' of the opium and lottery bills in the face of olpposition from the most conservative people, and her lest friends among the foreign population, coupled with the ralbid talk of certain lmembers of the royal household lhad produced a feeling of great unrest in the community. There were forelbodings of "worse to come." Immediately a meeting of business men was called. A Committee of Safety was organized at a mass meeting. Members of this committee undlertook the formation of a citizens' military force and the reorganization of the volunteers disban(led in 1890. In the afternoon the ITui Kalaiaina (a native Hawaiian l)olitical society) marched to the palace and presented a new constitution to the queen, begging her to proclaim it. This was all prearralge(l, and the queen being one of those who had advised this public action. The queen affected to be greatly astonished. A crowdl of Hawaiians had gathered about the gates and grounds and close to the palace steps. The queen received the document, retired to the Blute Room and summoned her ministers, who repaired at once to the palace. She presented them with the draft for the proposed constitution, demanded their signatures, anl dleclaredl her intention to, promulgate the document at once. Attorney-General Peterson and Minister of the Interior Colburn flatly refused to sign, and Ministers Parker and Cornwell joined their fellow officials in this attitude. The cabinet advised the THE "1,AY(( NET C()NSTITUTIO)N" 451 queen not to violate the law. But she could not be dissuaded from her mad course, and striking the table with clenched fist, announced her intention to promulgate the constitution. The ministers retired to the governlment building across the square and sent word to the business men's commnittee informing them of the queen's attitude. Leading citizens of every political faith immlediately met at \V. 0. Smith's office down town. It was agreed by all to resist this encroachment up)on their liberties. A message to this effect was despatched to the queen. The ministers returned to the palace and again endeavored to plersuade the ruler to abandon her plan. For the first time the queen hesitated. There was a long conference in the Blute Room. Finally, in bitterness, she consented to -ive up her project, or at least, to postpone action temllporarily. She was very angry when she returned to tle throne room at 4 1p. im., where slc e l-ade an extraordinary speech to the l-ui Kalaiainia andt most of the members of the legislature. She informed them that certain ol)stacles ladl preventedl her fronm proclaiming the constitution, anld that she was obliged to postpone it a few days. Slhe wrent to the front balcony of the second story and addressed the lmultitude, saving< that becatse of "the perfidy" of her linisters, sle w\as unable to carry out the wishes of the Iui Kalaiaina.,iliuokalani's "revolution" h1ad failed. Now a counter revollution was organizingo. The Committee of Safety was already devisinlg llanls for a 1)old stroke, should tlle (lueen persist in her course. 1The committee adjournedl tntil Sunday morning. The p)ul)lic was askled to confirm the selection of the Commiittee of Safety, which it did. 'he committee was auttlorized to take whaLtever stelps mi-ght seem necessary to further l)l)lic welfare and secure the rights of the people fromn aggression. It was the unaninlous sentimenc t amongl tile committee memlbers tlhat a proclamation shoultd le issued alrogati Mnet. announcing that tile plan to abrograte the old constitution bad lbeen aiiadllloedl. Moniday becamie a (lay seething with excitement. At 2 p. in., January 16, the Ihonolulu Rifles Armory was tile scene of the larg-est and illost imiportanit mass meeting of citizens ever held ill I Iawaii. lon. WV. C. Wildier, chairman- of the Committee of Safety, was chairnian. The reiport of tile special committee was readl, rehearsingp tile eiltire situation and recommine iding( that certainl resolu-tiolls, be adoptedl, stathing that tile efforts to avert the iln~peildlilg cast rophe llael bleelin van the concluding section1s collClellnlillg aild~ (lellotlcilg the queei s attittlde andl actionis, -aild ratifying the comlmittee's course of action, and autilorwing it to (levise ways and mleans to meet future contingenciestllreateniug tileir liberties. 1Mveanwhile, at Palace Squiare, ill froilt of tile opera ilouse, HlawvaI'ians lleldl a coinilter 1lass Ileeting. i\ resolution was adioptedl accep)ting, tile royal assurance tilat she wouldi no loilger seek a inew constitution by revoltitiotlary uletlodis. At tile same time tile ileeting loyally clleeredl tile queen's attellpt to carry out Iler coup11 (itat. Wilile tile Commlittee of Safety was ill sessiou tile queen (leciearedl ill a lpublic allnounlcemeilt tilat sile would attempt changes, in the constitutioll on)ily by metilods provided by the collstitutioli. THE "PBAYONET CONSTITUTIO()N 453 Meanwhile the U. S. S. Boston, which had been at Hilo, returned, and troops were landed the night of January 16 to protect American interests and to assure public safety, thereby paralleling the situation in 1874 when troops were landed following the election of Kalakaua, to preserve order. On that occasion the king's safety was guaranteed by the presence of the American bluejackets, under arms. January 17, 1893, is by far one of the most important dates in Hawaiian history. It marked the passing of the old, the beginning of the new national era. CHAPTER XXIX TIHE SHOT THAT WAS HEARD AROUND THE WORLD MONARCHY FALLS, REPUBLIC RISES tHE shot that was fired at Concord in 1775 and "heard around the world," had its counterpart in Honolulu. for the shot that was fired in Hawaii on the afternoon of January 17, 1893, not only was heard around the Hawaiian Islanlls, but its echoes were heard in every capital of the world. The shot shattered manly dreams of seizure of H-awaii. Captain (ood, just commlissioned by the men who determlined to prevent Oueetn Liliuokalanli from promlulgaitng a new constitution, or to letllrone her, fired the shot at a H:awaiian policemian while conOv yirg a cart loaded( with munitions intended for the queen's lop)ponents. That shot drew away five Hlawaiian police officers whlo were watching the room in which Sanford B. Dole and those with himl were at that moment framlingl the status of the new governmentt and released( tlhen from fear of capture. It permitted them to go to the government house and there (leniand the g-overnment of Liliuokalani's ministers and overthrow it. It was tlen that Gei. John H-. Soper, selected by Sanford B. Dole and tile colmmittee of safety, to lead tie new military forces, came )on the scene. Iven then, only a hair's breadth prevenited Sanforl IDole's newly organized government fromn being seized )y the rovalists. Tle one royalist waiting to fighlt and for reinforcenelts, waite(l in vain for the supports. Procrastination throttled monarchy. The night before, when the com(lmittee asked General SoI)er to take cotmm1and of the military forces, he would not consent unless they could )p;evail upon Sanford B. Dole to accept the presidency of the proposed government. Respotdling to the call of a messenger, Dole met the committee, heard General Spc)er's alternative, and informed them that lie would give his \tNAI 0 NR CIJHY FA L LS, R E U L 't I CIIti R I 4~ answer at 10 the following miorning. His answer at that hour llaale its impress upon the future of the Pacific. Judge IDole antl General Soper, on the 30th anniversary of the overthrow of the Hawaiian mionarchy, which took- place oil January 17, 1893, told how events crow(Iedl in those four clays and culininatedl when Caltain (ood 's revolver barked. Ihat pistol shot gave America the Hlawaiiian Islands five years later as a territory, now the most poverfully armie(l antl (lefenledl insular fortress under the American flag. Only the stiffening of a lhackbone, the graspinig of initiative leadership, seewie(I needed in 1icnolnlu thirty-three years ago to undermine the carefully prelparedl plans of a groutp of citizens and lperPettate the Iiavaiian monarchy-. But, as events sultsequlently develope]d, this wotuld have heen a fatal tilt with Destiny. Just the sudden appearance of a group of Ilawaiians. (leterminell to renwmhiber that their nationality was at stake, at an office on Fort street, wouldl have broken ulp the cotiiicil of those who were then prepariing to declare the monarchy, at anl endl and free citizen governmiiienit to begin. O-.r vithin an hour' when this cotincil had occupied an office in the governmene t buildinog that afternioon0, had the solitary royalist present been reinforced], the tale of the overthrow of monarchy and of Queen Lilitiokalani thwat fateful (lay of January 17, 1893, mig-ht never have b~een written. Sanford B. Dole, who became president of the lprovisional government that (lay, told mie the story of the checkmate which the Americans and residents of other nationalities played against the ill-advised move of Queen Lilnokalani to declare the constitutionl invalid and to proclaim one of her own, one that would have given her the power of life and (leath over her subjects, just as rulers in ancient periods were vested with that dread power. Judge Dole and his associates, who had just (lecidletl to take over Queen Lilinokalani's governm-ent and declare the monarchy a thing of the past, found themselves trapped in an office room down town that Jantiarv 17th, 1893. This was one of the most momentous days in all Haxvaiian history. Across the street they saw a quintet of stalwart H-Tawaiian policemen watching the win 456f UNDI)ER ItAWAIIAN SKIES (lows andl doors. What their orders were they (lid not know. N\hether tlat rear entrance was similarly guarded was only surmised. They seemed to be caught in a trap. Had the police moved uponl the council, taken the members prisoners-among them the man just selected to be president of the new-born repullic-the coup dI'tat might have collapsed like a house of sanld. An hour later, when they were in possession of the government house, witlh but one mlan of theirs on guard outside and armed, and lie anxiously awaitilg the arrival of armed citizens from the armory; with but one man present of the royalists who was determined to fig-lht, andl he anxiously awaiting the stiffening of backlolle among the Queen's subjects to reinforce him, the council were in a state of extreme anxiety as to their future. Everything huncg upon a thread. Fate seemed to have opened her scissors al(l was about to close them over the Thread of Rulership). It mighlt have favored one as much as the other. It was Chance. )estiny was playing a mysterious hand. The stiffening of backlolne failed. Rteillforcelmellts for the citizen force arrive(. The lnew-bornl Repub:lic was safe. But it was a pistol shot fired at Fort and( King streets at about 2:20 o'clock that afternoon that released the council in the Fort street office. The five police on watch ilmmediately ran up the street. 'The door was no longer barred. The revolutionary committee, of which Sanford B. Dole was one, left the office and procee(le( to the government house opposite the royal palace. That place wvas untu-tarded, for the pistol shot also had called Hawaiians to tlie scene. That slot, fired l)y Capt. Jolhn (Good, who was in charge of ordlnance for tlhe revolutionists, at a police officer who had attelnl)te(l, with others, to halt a wiagonl filled with miiunitions, precipitated the revolution. That shot overthrew a monarchy. It deposed a queen. It created a Relublic. It elevated a justice of the supreme court to tlhe presi(lency of the new insular Republic. It paved the way five years later for Iawvaii to be brought into the Aimerican Union as a Territory. It prevented foreign nations ever from MO( NARCHY FALLS, R1_lV IlL IW RI SE'S 45 45 / seizing the H-awaiian Islands. It gave America its great Malta in the Pacific, now thle greatest military and naval defense area under the Anmerican flag. In the quiet of JudIge Dole's old-fashioned hiome in Emmni'a street, the presideiitial mansion (luring his seven years as presi(lent, among, his books and papers, in rooms which fairly breathe the culture anl learning birought to Hawaii by the missionaries, I listened with profound interest to his story of the events that led up to the overthrow of the monarchy, and in his story were many incidents that gave a nev interpretation to that historic episode. The judge, who was Haawaii's "grand old man,' one born in H.1awaii, educated in Honolulu and at Williams College, who took up the lav as a lrofession, and sat uipoi the bench, who was called fromt his quiet life amono law b- -ooks to assume the uncertain duties of a lpresidlent, and afterwards was Hawaii's first uoveruor antl then a United States judge, told me that never was a movement launched and carried out that wvas more just to all the lpeople; and that, undloubtedly for the future, of the islands and their Ipeolple, tle change of government, resented by many then, has stood the test of time, anli he (leclaredl that it hlas been to Hawaii's adlvantage. judo-e IDole was nev-er an admirer of the late l-incr iKalakaia. lie believed that a fair analysis of that monarch's reign would prove tlat Kalakana( did not attain to any dIegrce of real executiv e ability. In the first lplace, Judlge Dole, referi-rlig to the year 1874. wlhen the legislatuire elected Kalak" —atia as their king to succee(l the late King Lunalilo,( declared it was- an act wli'ch dlid niot meet with the favor of Hawaiians, and that the election was accoinlplished by unfair means used to (lefeat Queen Elmma, wido\v of Kamclhamehla, an active aspirant for the crown. The only factor in the candidacy of Qtueen Emma that judge Dole dlid not concur in then (and he had not since changed his opinion) was that she was too B~ritish in her tendencies, aiid, naturally, the Americans in Hawaii were not fully in accord with her hiopes for the crown. I-le did not say that this feeling among the Americans 458 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES concerning Queen Emma may have had an influence upon the election by the legislators. History, however, records the fact that some influence was at work that won the legislators over to IKalakaua. ()n January 14, 1893, the first niove in the fatal incident was made when the citizens heard that Liliuokalani would prorogue the legislature at noon. It did not seem possible that the queen, after having gained everything for which she had been striving, would imperil her gains by violating the Constitution. But she (li(l. It was between 1 and 2 o'clock in the afternoon that the community was startled by the information that a coup d'etat was in progress, and that the queen was endeavoring to force her cabinet to sign a new Constitution which she then proposed to prolmulgate immediately. The information was at first disbelieved, but it was speedily confirmed. EIvents moved swiftly. There was a Sunday and then Monday, Jaluary 16. That night of January 16 may also b)e regarded as one of the most historic in I-lawaii. Up to that night there was little real undlerstanding that a throne was to be overturned and a president chosen to head the Republic of Hawaii. Up to that time Sanford B. Iole never knew that he, within twenty-four hours, would be plroclaimed a president to succeed the long line of kings and queens of Hawaii. Up to that time John H-. Soper, who had formerly been marshal of the kingdom under King Kalakaua, never knlew that in less than twenty-four hours he would be commissioned as commander-in-chief of the military forces of the "Replublic of Hawaii." I-e became General Soper, commissione(l by I'resident Sanford B. Dole, the following day. And yet it was only after a talk beneath a tree in the dark, in the l-ienry W\aterhouse grounds in Nuuanu street, a talk that was held the night of January 16, when Soper said he had been asked to command the forces, but wouldn't think of accepting unless Sanford B. Dole consented to be, and was chosen, president. \hen Soper made his request of the men meeting that night at Waterhouse's home, a messenger was sent to Judge MONARCHY FALIS, REPU BLIC RISES 450) Dole's house asking him to come over. He (lid so. The momentous talk was held. Dole replied to the committee, "Let me sleep over it," promising his answer at 10 the following morning. Judge Dole confirmed this incident. This is the story. as told me by the late Judge Dole in his home: "It was quite a critical evening, Monday evening, as I remember, the sixteenth of January, 1593," sail the judge. "The question of opposing the queen was initiated Saturday at a great mass mieeting. A committee of citizens was appointed then with power to act. There was nmuch to do. Arms had to be looked up. On Sunday, possibly Sunday evening, L. A. Thurston, Genleral Hartwell, Fred lWundenberg and I, and there may have been one other person, miet in Mr. Thurston's house to talk things over. Mr. Hartwell, as a military man, who had served in the Civil War, was not in favor of the movenlent against the governmient, as he said we did not have force enough to carry it through. Iooking at it fromi that standpoint, the rest of us tlought we had, particularly with the friendly sylmpathy of the American governmenit, in Mlr. Stevens, the American minister. "On Mo)nda evening Mrs. Dole and I were sitting in our parlor, when a manl who lived in Kaneohe came over froml Mr. Waterlhouse's and said they wanted me to head this affair. I said( 'No.' I said: 'W\hy will not Thurstoln take it?' I was told that lie was sick abed from haviing worked day and night on this matter since it was initiated. I agreed to go over. "\lhen I went there the situation was lodd. Ve were probably at the lowest elbb. Everybody seemed to be ill. Thurston was sick. Castle was sick. Others were. "I said: '\Vhv not name Princess Kaiulani, the (laughter of Princess Liklelike and Mr. Cleghorn, as the successor to Iiliuokalani, aind have a regency?' They said that would not work, and there was no feeling for a movement of that sort' they were tired of the monarchy anll did not want anything 111ore to (lo with it. "I said I would sleep over it and let them know at 10 a. im. the next (da at \V. 0. Smith's office dowIn towln. quvcn Libiuok~alms Iuisebold Guard being disbanide'd at the Roeal Barracks by Col. J. H. Soper, commanding the Pro&isiinal Governmen three in January, 1893, following the ovenrthrow of the monarh i. Thebx i trii stack e, ne over their eipet n lit to a B Atorit" notice, wi ended mor al le for all M(ONARCHY FALLS, REPUI'BLIC RISES 461 "Mr. Soper was there and nominated me. He said if I accepted he would act at the head of the army to be created. I guess le and I went out doors and talked it over out there under the trees. "A messenger was sent over to Minister Stevens' house to inquire if the report was correct that he was in sympathy with us -and he was, I gathered. "I came home to sleep over the offer, but my sleep was fitful and greatly disturbed. I would sleep and then wake up with this matter on my mind, and passed a very unpleasant night. "The next morning before breakfast I drove over to General Htartwell's house and found Judge Whiting there. The latter was not in favor of the republic. I went over to Dr. Brigham's. He was in favor of acting as planned. I then stopped at Mr. Thurston's. Henry Glade came in. All these people were in favor of my accepting the offer to serve as chief executive. I got the information that Mr. Damon, whom I regarded as a very conservative man, was ready to join if I accepted. I returnedl home and then made up my mind to accept. "At 10 o'clock I went downtown. I remelmbered a letter I had in nmy pocket whicl Thurston had given me that morning, adllressed to Mr. Stevens, setting forth our intended movement, and proposing to ask his recognition, or something like that. I went in and handed the letter to him. He (lid not say much, but I remember that he said: 'I thilk you have a great opportunlity.' "I mIet these men again at 10 o'clock at Smith's office, and told them I would assume the position. As a matter of fact, I rega-rded it as a position I would fill possibly for a few months. \We agreed to meet again at 2 in the afternoon. "Then I went over to the government house. I was a judge at that time. I had a little business to attend to in relation to the indexing of the laws that had been passed. I finished that u)p and then wrote out my resignation as judge and sent it to Joe Carter, I believe, who seemed to represent royalty then. 462 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES "I found the town quite awake-a good deal of excitement. I found a committee of thirteen there and I made fourteen, I believe. There were some commissions to sign. Our members were quite restive-wanted to start down right away. I happened to go to the front window, and looking down I saw five big Hawaiian policemen standing on the opposite sidewalk looking over toward our place. We did not know what they intended doing. Anything might have happened. I stood there a few moments wondering what was the best thing to do. I sent Albert Wilcox out to the government house to see how things were up there. HIe returned and said that about a hundred Hawaiians were standing on the opera house steps, just curious and watching for what might hapI)pen next. \e did not know what might happen to uls. ''"t that nmollent a pistol shot was heard, coming froin ITort andl King streets, we judged. "Thlat was when thle police tried to stop Captain Good as he was leaving E. 0. Hall's with a wagon driven by Edwin Benner, wAith munitions in it for us. The police across the way left and went to the corner. The crowd at tle opera house heard the slhot and hurried down town. Everybody went there-just concentrated onl that center. "Then, witllout having any police watching us, we left and llurried up to tlhe government house. "In the eantime we had sent orders to have our men assemble at tlhe old armlory at Beretania and I'unchbowl streets, arranging for thenm to appear at tlle government houise, but we hoped that a few would reach there when we (did. We got to the courthouse and tle only 'force' we saw was Oscar White, carrying a gun, stanlding on the town side of the government house. But soon afterward some of out; men commenced to arrive. '"We enltered and found that all the cabinet had gone to the police station, where there was a force of 200 menl oi duty. We foulld only clerks in the office. Otherwise the whole place was deserted. John Hassinger came out and gave up the government to us. I askedl im to go to work on making out commissions i\I()NAR(H1Y V\LS RPVlLC ISS 4 ( )_ 3' for us. Frank Hastings, the chief clerk of the foreign office, was quite expert in handling state palers. Hle and Prince David Kawananakoa, who was serving in the foreignii office, were set to work to make out the comnimissions, and I say that the yonng prince worked with a vim, although the overthrov of the mnonarchy meant the end of royal honors. They got letters out to the foreign ministers stating what ve had done. "(Gradually onr armed force hecame quite strong within the next lalf hour. We had gone into the front room and then moved into the hack room of the huilding, and there we had onr alministrative offices nntil we movel over some months later to tile old royal palace. We all stayed on tnntil 9 p. in. and meanwhile General Soper was organizing his forces. Mr. Damon had gone over to the palace on his own miotion. I-e saw Lilnokakini and Paul Neutman, her legal adviser. Mr. Damon probahly did some good, for they came to a conclusion to surrender the police station. William Cornwvell camne over with a letter to ns stating that the qnieen surrendered. We filed that letter. "ReallN, that wvhole actioi of the queen stumiied the nation. CL 13. \~ilson who was the marshal of the kinigdxomn, was quite readly to fight. He was one of the few who had that attitnde. "The )Inited States force that came ashore fromi a varship on Monday occupiel the area now covered by tie federal building~. I think that tie queen anid her adlvisers put out tile stateleilt that they surrendered to the federal forces, hut Mr. 'Vilson ias to(l ml le dlidl lot regarl that as any ohstacle, or have amllytllilg to (10 witl her surrendler. He, personally, was quite ready to mIove in opposition to us if the cahinet Iad authorized him to (lo so. Tle cahinet was very nIuch (ivided and unable to act and so gave up. "I night say tiat whel we arrived at tie courthouse we found one Ilan there, Clarles J. McCartly, a royalist thel, and who was Governor of tie Territory of Hawaii oniy recently ninder President Wilson. Hle was one of tlheir leaders. He had come over to tle goverillen t buildiiic, according to a letter I hlave front Mr. Wilson, hefore we arrived. aild was rea(lv to take 464 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES action against us if they had sent him any force to command. lie had gone there at his own suggestion, under promise of the calinet to send a force of men from the police station to prevent our taking the government house and capturing us. But we found him there all alone, for the others had changed their minds. HTe was waiting for his force. We changed the situation. He had to listen to the reading of the proclamation which Mr. Cooper read, proclaiming the monarchy at an end and the Relublic organizel. "We stationed sentinels around the building. We organized a street patrol for the night. We sent to the commander of the United States force and asked them to lend us some men for patrols, but they refused. Then at 9 p. m. we were through. Mr. James King, a mnember of the new cabinet, stayed there and slept, to be in charge. That night it was King's turn to stay. Afterwards I stayed there and others took their turns. Archibald Cleghorn, who was Governor of Hawaii under Queen Liliuokalani, came over during that first evening. As governor he was in control of the Household Guards. He was disgusted with Liliuokalani bringing disaster upon her people. He wanted to disbland the HEousehold troops the next morning, he was so mad. Tle whole situation had changed materially for him, for it spoiled the chance of his daughter, Princess Kaiulani, becoming the ruler of Hawaii. "It was Liliuokalani's own actions that brought the coul) (d'etat about and dispossessed her of a throne and crown. She had had( advisers, I presume." Sanford B. Dole's statement of the case sums it up in its entirety, a fair and impartial review of a situation that was reg-retable to him, butt, appa'ently, a l)olitical change that was guilded 1b dlestily. \\lhen the Committee of Safety took over the goverlnment buil(ling, it went to the front entrance where one of the members read the following proclamation: M( NA-RCU Y FA1kLLS. REIPU-I}L)IC RI SES 4x 4 65 "\Ve, the citizens and residents of the Hawaiian Islands, orgallizedl and acting for the pnblic safety and common good, hereby proclaim as follows: "The monarchical systemn of government is hereby abrogratedl. "A Provisional Govlernment for the control and management of pniblic affairs and the protection of the pnblic peace is hereby established, to exist nntil terms of nnion with the Unitedl States of America have ibeen negotiated and agreedl npon. ",Snch Provisional Government shall consist of Fan execotive conncil of fonr memibers, who are (leclaredl to be S. B. Dol.T A. King, P. C. Jones, WV. 0. Smith, who shall administer th-e execntive (lepartments of the government, the first named acting as presidlent and chairman of snch conncil an-d administering the (lepartmeilt of foreign affairs," etc. The advisory conncil was also named, consisting of fonrteen members. "All officers unl(er the existing governmient," the proclkiniation, containnecl, are hereby reqnested to continne to exercise their fnnctions alld perform the dnties of their respective offices with the exception of the followving named persons: "Onecen L-iliniokalanii; Charles B. Wilson, Marshal; Samnel Parker, Minister of Foreign Affairs; WV. HT. Cornwell, Minister of Finance; John F. Colburn, Minister of the Interior; Arthnr P. Peterson, Attorney-General, who are hereby removed from office." This wvas (datedI Jannary 17, 1893. Monarchy was at an enml in Hawaii. Qneen Liliniokalani aild her calbinet notedl a lprotest ' saying she "yielded to the snperior force of the United States of Amlerica, whos-e Minister Plenipotentiary, His Excellency John L,. Stevens, had cansed United States troops to be landled at I-onohlnln and (leclaredl that hie xvonl(l snpport the said Provisional Government. "Nowv, to avoidl an\y collision of armed forces, and perhaps the loss of life, I (10 nnder this protest, and impelled by said force, vieldl my anthority nntil snch timie as the Government of the United States shall npon facts presented to it, nndo the action of 466 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES its representative and reinstate me in authority which I claim as the Constitutional Sovereign of the Hawaiian Islands." T'his, also, was dated January 17. The forces referred to were those from the cruiser Boston, commanded by Captain G. C. \Wiltze. The offices of the new government were established in the olld parliament building. Troops were stationed in and about the palace grounds, which the royal family was requested to vacate. A commission of five men appointed by the advisory council, consisting of L. A. Thurston, W. R. Castle, Joseph Marsden, WV. C. Wilder, and C. L. Carter, departed secretly on the island steamer Claudine for San Francisco, en route to Washington, reaching San Francisco with the news of the overthrow. They laid before President Harrison and his cabinet the request for the annexation of the Islands to the United States. The government acknowledged the new government, and a treaty of annexation was introduced in the senate. On March 4, Grover Cleveland was inaugurated as President of the United States, and olne of his first acts was to have the treaty withdrawn. The Amcerican flag which had been raised in Honolulu, was ordered lowered and the Hawaiian flag restored, and the situation in Hawaii was rendered uncertain by the opposition of Cleveland. Two days after the withdrawal of the treaty, Col. James Blonnt, a southerner, was appointed a special commissioner to investigate HIawaiian affairs, and on March 11 left Washington for Honolult. Ile reached Honolulu March 29 and two days later ordered the Alnerican flag lowered, and ordered the American troops ashore to return to their ships. Blount took statements from leading citizens, of both republic and royalist sympathies, and on July 17 forwarded his report to the Secretary of State, and shortly afterward returned to the mainland. It was Blount's conclusion that the fall of the monarchy had leen brought about largely through the interposition of the American troops, and with the aid of the United States minister, antl Cleveland adopted this as his policy. He appointed Albert S. Willis, of Louisville, Ky., as AMinister to Hawaii. The latter MONARCHY FALLS, REP'UBILIC RISES 407, was instructed to inform the deposed queen that if she would grant full amnesty to those who deposed her, it would be demanded of President Dole and his ministers that they relinquish control of the government and restore constitutional authority to Liliuokalani as queen. On November 4 Willis reached Honolulu, obtained the queen's assent to the amnesty provision, and on December 19, demanded her restoration. On December 23 President Dole informed Minister Willis that the Provisional Government declined to surrender its authority to the former queen. The hope for annexation being blocked by President Cleveland, a call was issued for a constitutional convention to convene on May 30, 1894, to determine the future for1l of government for the Islands. A constitution was adopted and signed by the convention on July 3, and on July 4 was publicly proclaimedl and the Republic of Hawaii was born, with Mr. Dole as President. The constitution was modeled after that of the United States. The first election of members of the legislature was held October 29, 1894. In June, 1893, the offices of the Provisional Government had been transferred to the former palace, and the old government buildintg was styled the courthouse. Queen Liliuokalani fought desperately for her throne an(l sent commissioners to Washington. For a year the question was in the balance. On August 15, 1894, the hopes of the royalists were blasted when President Cleveland informed the queen's cominissioners that it was not in his power as chief executive to restore her to the throne. He stated that the Republic of Hawaii was a (de facto government and recognizable by the United States. President Cleveland's letter-which, strangely enough, was undated, but at the bottom bore the notation in the handwriting of Commissioner H. A. Widemann, "Rec'd at 2:30 p. m. mWednesday, Aug. 15, '94"-follows: Executive lanlsion, Washingtoln. Gentlemen: You must permit me to remlind you that this interview is not an official one, and that instead of receiving you in any representative 468 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES capacity, I meet you as individuals who have traveled a long distance for the purpose of laying a certain matter before me. You ask me if there is any hope of my "doing anything for the restoration of the Constitutional Government of the Hawaiian Islands." I suppose that this question is largely prompted by the fact that soon after the overturning of the late government of the queen, I investigated that transaction and was satisfied that there had been such an unjustifiable interference in aid of that movement, on the part of representatives of the Governmnent of the United States in its Diplomatic and Naval service, as to call for correction, not only to rectify what seemed to be a wrong done to others, but also through that rectification to war(l off what appeared to be a danger to American honor and prol)ity. Fully appreciating the constitutional limitations of my executive power and by no means unmindful of the hindrance that might arise, I undertook the task. flaving failed in my plans, I committed the entire subject to the Congress of the United States which had abundant power an(l authority in the premises. The Executive branch of the Government was thereby discharged from further duty and responsibility in the matter unless moved thereto by Congressional command. The Congress has, both by its action and its omission to act, signified that nothing need be done touching American interference with the overthrow of the government of the queen. Quite lately a government has been established in Hawaii which is in full force and operation in all parts of the Islands. It is maintaining its authority and discharging all ordinary governmental functions. Upon general principles and not losing sight of the special circumstances surrounding this case, the new goverinlent is clearly entitled to our recognition without regard to any of the incidents which accompanied or preceded its inauguration. This recognition and the attitude of the Congress concerning Hawaiian affairs of course lead to our absolute denial of the MO(NARCHY FALLS, R1IPUIBLIC RISES 46') least present or future aid or encouragement on my part to an effort to restore any government heretofore existing in the Hawaiian Islands. (Signed) GROVER CLEVrELAND. Rec'd at 2:30 p. m. \Wednesday, Aug. 15/94. (Sigtned) I. A. WIDEMANN, J. A. CUMMINS, SAMUEL PARKER. Immediately the news was received at HLonolulu the deferred plans for an insurrection against the Republic were secretly developed, plans which included the chartering of sailing vessels to bring arms from the United States, to be put ashore at isolated places on the Oahu coast, and for actual effort to capture the government. Lack of competent leadership prevented the plans from being made dangerous. Meeting after meeting was held, plan after planl presented, each being thrown aside, while the supposed actual leaders hlaggle(l and haggled. There were leaks, however, and the government was fairly well informed of what was transpiring. January 6, 1895, was finally determined upon as the date for the uprising. Watchful government agents discovered the royalists gathering at the home of Henry Bertelmann, at Diamond Head. A force was sent there. There was a clash in the dark, some shots, and Charles L. Carter, of the government, was killel. The insurrectionists fled. They were pursued into the hills at Kaimuki and the valley of Manoa. The regular army force, the hastily organlize Citizens' Guard and all sorts of volunteers hastened to the defense of the government. There were skirnishes in the hills and a few were killed. The uprising had collapsed. The leaders were arrested one by one. Sam Nowlein. leader of the movement, was captured; also Rolert W\ilcox, leader of the 1889 revolt, was captured. He was tlhen hiding in a fishing hut in Kalihi, a suburb. ~a i=1 a IIw 3 C-. t3: I 1- ~ i ul Fr" g ii3a s Bc "r fii ti " -t, r; k-r;s ct-1= esca ""rP1;") -"a73 esi i"t~~ ~? r;~": Ei;j~ Cu F:. cti "1": d. F;-. O;;~ n,8 icrrs~ pico ~s E R, M'vONARCHIY FALLS, RFitPVBL IC RI SE-S 47 4/71 Suifficient evidlence was secured to wvarrant the arr-est of L,11iliok"1alani. She wvas arrested at Washiington Place, her private residlence, and was immediately 'taken to the 01(1 1ala1ce, andl given prison apartments in the second story, which are nowv oceilpied by the territorial auiditor. The premises were searched and all her private and official correspondence seized. This wvas analyzed and sufficient evidlence was found to cause her to be brough-lt before a military court wvhich convented in her former thirone room, where she was convicted and sentence(I to a term of imprisonmenit and a heavy fine. The correspondence and papers she refers to in her interesting 1)o0k "Hawaii by Hawaii's Queen." Shie tells of her arrest, the seizure of her papers and diaries andl states that fromt that dlay on she never saw them again. They were held by the government, then filed awvay in sealed boxes in the Archives of Hawaii, andl were opened on January 6, 1924, by the commissioners of archives. There were found drafts of constitutions andl many7 plans for the proposed newv royal government. Her diaries, with respect to the revolt, containedi guarledl statements. For nine months she wvas a prisonler, with only one xvoman attendant permittedl to remiain with her. She wvas first paroledl and then full pardlon was granted by President Dole. What were the queen'!s real motives in her extraordlilary movements prior to and on that fatefuil January 17, 1893? What were her feel-ings in after years when she had had ample opportuinitv to reflect over the tragic inci(Ient which led to her (lethrolnement? Tl1e writer knows fromt her owvn lips that she believed there had been an un(Iercurrent against her, interfering wvith the best efforts of her brief ruilership; to undermine it, andl eveni to uirg-e lpeoPle on to clause her to become antagonistic toward the foreigners, particularly those of American extraction; and finally, her owV1 coup was in reality strangely and mysteriouisly impelled 1wv those wvho really wanted her off the thirone, so that monarchy might be dlestroyedl andl relpulblicanism established. 472 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES Two books, entitled "Message, 1893," both of which came from an auction room in 1921, portions of the queen's library at Washington Place that were sent there for disposal under the hammer, had been well thumbed by Liliuokalani. Inspection of both these books imnmediately they were bought by a foreigner, disclosed many pencilled and penned comments and annotations on page margins, all in the queen's own handwriting, and indicate that she was affronted by many of the statements which Colonel Blount had made concerning her. The "Message" contains an interview with Sereno Bishop, Tuesday, April 12, 1893. Dr. Bishop was a missionary. Here is the dialogue between Commissioner Blount and Dr. Bishop: Q. What do you mean by the attempt to promulgate a constitutioll by linlawftul means? A. I mean that she presented such a constitution to her ministers, and( they delmlurre(l. She use( violenit language toward them. On the margin is Liliuokalani's pencilled comment, and underscoring of "used violent languagce"-"Not true." "They fled," the answer went on, and the queen had pencilled, "Not so." liere is possibly the crux of the whole tragedy that focused so rapidly towar(l January 17. It is doubtful whether this statemelt lhas ever been seen before, or known, but apparently it represents the secret thoughts of Liliuokalani while she lived in retirement at \ashington Place. where she had years to reflect. Her reading of this government book, her occasional pencillings and thumbings, tell her real feelings, and possibly the pencillings were nmeant to represent what she considered the truth. The auction room was a strange place to reveal the heart of the departed sovereign. 1H-ere is the extract: Dr. Bishop, in continuing his statement: "She added it (was her intention to pro1l0ltlgate that C01stitation in a short time." )On the marginl is this pencilled comment: "Tlrue-but at the rcquest of myt people!" MUNARCIIY IFAIILS, lRE-I~VBi') RISES 473 4 7 3' Dr. Bislhop further on added: -I heard she was tindler the influence of kahunas." She notes on the margyin-" Un true." Ini one of these two volumes is a letter from Minister Stevens, (latedl Honoluilu, lanuary 18, 1893, addlressed to Secretary of State Foster, lin which hie (lescrihedl the aiction of the hinejackets lanledl fromj the Boston, andl gave reasons. The queen has pencilled ''False" to the statement o1n the margi'n a-aintaceti paragraph, as follows: "The queen and her palace favorite gave their warmest suiplport to the lottery hIll and signedl it at once. She was to he im-1 mediatelyv compenlsated by heing allowed to p)romuilgate a nfew constituition." Below, there is a passag-e which says that tlhe queen appear-ed lin the throne room hefore the judges and other officials "'in an c.rtremn passion, of anger." Ti-er comment is, "False." Continuiing, this sentence goes on, "and avowed her purpose to postpone her revolutionary constituition for a brief p)eriodl and thenr went upon the balcony andI spoke wilt/igra pos:, ion1 lit f/ic sanic strain' (the uinderscorings heing Lilitiokalani 's). On the margin is a lenggthy comment, huit the hinder, InI assemhling many, laillpllets inooeVolume, shearedl off the edgecs along the top side, leavingy a (lisconnlectel ]line, hut the readable portions are: `XTanted their own wick-ed actions- tobe a suiccess. There was no (langyer wvhatever from the Hawvaiians and we were all astonished to see thle troojps landed, which showed that -- antid here the hinder ag-ain cut into the pencilling, hut the second fline concludes, "possession of these Islands wvould lbe gIiven to the tLuited States." This pencilled comment hy the queen appears to he pecuiliarlyI apt whent considlerel wvith this sentence Iin a letter signedl 1w.Minister Stevens, flonoluilu, Fehruary 14, 5 p). in., 1893, written at the American legation, adldressedl to Secretary of State Foster, at \V~ashington, the queein undlerscoring certain wordls I1I 474 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES "The Hawaiian pear is now fully ripe and this is the golden hour for the Unitcd States to pluck it." A foreign diplomat in Honolulu, on the occasion of Minister Stevens' arrival, told friends that Stevens always made trouble wherever he went, and he would make trouble in Hawaii. He assisted the overthrow, in the opinion of the queen and the Hawaiians. Destiny, however, had a hand in the political chess game in the Pacific. The diplomat merely moved the pawns, for it was evidenlt that Hawaii sooner or later must come under the protection of the United States. History must justly record, at this late day, that United States Minister Stevens, who was always disliked and mistrusted by the Hawaiians, played the role of a meddler in Hawaiian politics, as his messages to Secretary of State Foster indicate. He desired that the monarchy should fall, and that the Islands should be annexed to the United States. His letters were filled with bitter invectives against the Hawaiian royal personages, the Hawaiians themselves, or any persons who sided with them. In a report on Novemb)er 20, 1892, he wrote: "One of two courses seem to me absolutely necessary to be followed: Either bold and vigorous measures for annexation, or for a 'customs union.' " He expressed the belief that the former would be "cheaper in the end." Again he said: "I cannot refrain from expressing the opinion with emphasis that the golden hour is near at hand." He informed the Washington government that the Hawaiian monarchy cost too much, was an anachronism, and an obstruction to prosperity; and that a governor, appointed at Washington, at $5,000 a year, would be better for the Islands. He continually expressed fear of England, and belabored any person of English or part-E nglish blood as a menace to American interests and plans. "The princess heir-apparent has always been and is likely always to be under English influence," he wrote, and then made many disrespectful statements in regard to many of Honolulu's influential English residents. He referred to "adventurers, imnpecunious and irrepressible mob of hoodlums who were behind MONARCHY FtA LLS, RE'PUII:1IC RISES 475 the British." Later he referred to Princes David Kawananakoa and Kuhio Kalanianaole (the latter servilng as delegate to Washington from 1902 to 1922) with considerable disrespect, in this language: "The last namedl-the two princes-are harmless young persons, of little account, not chiefs of blood, but they were made princes by the late King Kalakaua without any constitutional right or power to do so." As a matter of fact, both princes were high chiefs. Their mother was the Princess Kinoike, and she a granddaughter of King Kaumualii, of Kauai. Her sister, Queen Kapiolani, before her marriage to Kalakaua and before he was elected king, was the widow of the High Chief Namakaeha, uncle of Queen Emma, the consort of Kamehameha IV. Prince Kalanianaole's career in the United States Congress was one which reflected cre(lit upon the prince as an astute diplomat, for serving in Congress without a vote, yet he secured many advantages for Hawaii by sheer personal popularity. Independent of the Stevens campaign for annexation, American residents were fully of the belief that the monarchy, or the manner in which its affairs were being administered, was retrograding, and retarding the national status of the Islands. They gradually came to the conclusion-and it is said witl sadness-that a national change was necessary. Theirs was a different standpoint, for their rights were menaced by the royal administration. These residents had high principles and it must have been with a heart-wrench that they took the fatal step to dethrone Her Majesty. But none of the residents stooped to the words of detraction of the Hawaiians in which Minister Stevens indulged, which may be consi(lere(l one blot on the official connection between Hawaii and America in pre-annexation (lays. The Americans, however, had sounded the Harrison admninistration at Washington, when they sent an emissary there to confer with a majority of the cabinet officials. The minister of Hawaii, at Washington, to whom the plan was broached, did not understand that it was altogether a secret questionnaire, and gave out some of the details to a Boston newspaper. The in 476 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES t _rview created consternation to those representingc Hawaii. This incijlent took place a year before the overthrow. The personal visit was closely followed b~y correspondlence between the United States minister, Stevens, and the state lepartment. It was during this correspondlence that tle now famous phrase, "The Hawaiian pear is noow fully ripe," was first used. As early as March 8, 1892, Steven-is wrote to the Secretary of state: "I ask for the following instructions fromt the Departmeit of State on the followincg: If the governmient here should be xurpriscd and overtutrned by an ordcrly and pcacefnl -revointioiiary vtovenmtientt, iarlclll of native Hawaaians, and a provlisional or;republican govcrnimenilt organizcd and proclaiincd, would the United States minister and nav.al conmmander here be Istihficd in respondingo aoff irntivelh to thle call of the nlemnbers of the removed govermnient to restolre themi to power or replace thenI in posscssion of the goverinment tbutilding? Or should they confine themselves exclusively to the preservation of Anmerican prosperity? I have information which I leemi reliable, that there is an organizedl revolutionary party in the islands, comlposed largely of niative Itaxvaiians andl a considerable number of whites and half-whites, led hy indlividuals of the latter classes * * with tile ultimate view of annexation 'to the United States. * * * I still incline to the belief that the revolutionary attemnt will not b.e madle as lonig as there is a United States force in the harbor of Hfionolului." The Boston left Honolulu in lanuary, 1893, and the revolution took place just as she returnedl from Ihilo, flhxvaii, ill ti-me for MXinister Stevens to have a large force of YuejAckets lanided. TI-oxvever, xvhatever the motives of the revolutioniary party referred to 1w, Stevens, the actual overthrow was caused biy the (ueeli's rash (letermination to violate the constitution and attemlptt to Jromiulgate a new one. Seething resentment and amazement over the (lestruction of the throne, the realization that certain acts in the monarchyv adiniiiistration hiatd lel uip to the fateful January 17 and created a chainge in the goverinment, was onot easily extin~gu)tisihed. Smoldering feelings.lwere kept alive for two years. It was only natural MONARCHIY FALLS, REP'VUIBLIC RISE St S 477 that Hawaiians who had held high offices, and Hlawaiians who had held no offices at all, but still believed in the monarchy, a sovereign and a throne, shoutl continue to discuss the situation. Treason is interpreted as anything that tends to aim at the existing' government, but what was more natural than that discussions, often heated, should result from even ordinary, commonplace meetings upon the streets and the hope expressed that the queen might be restored? At any rate the royalist uprising came, with fatal consequence to all concerned in tile plans. Following her arrest and (letention, Iiliuokalani, in a letter (ated January 24, addressed to President I)ole, expressed herself loyal to the Dole government and dellored the revolt. She absolved all persons from any fealty to herself and announceld her intention to subscribe herself henceforth to the Republic of Hawaii. She asked clemency for those whllo aided tle revolt. Despite this plea she was placed on trial and found guilty of misprision of treason. Communication between the queen and her followers outside her lalace prison was forbidden. All food and raiment taken to her was searched, but messages, rolled into little )alper pellets were concealed in her poi supplies, and thus she kept in touch with her friends. Since 1895 events moved ahead rapidly. \Vhen President McKinley was elected a new effort to secure annexation was made. There was opposition, however, and the matter dragged along until the outbreak of the Spanish war in 1898. One (lay the world was electrified when news of a naval lattle in Manila Bay reached tle outsi(le, an American victory. Came then a cablegram at \Washillngton froml Comnllm'lodore l)evwev which said: "Send troops " Sulddenly the Philil)ppines became a world mecca. lThe United States government organized an arlmy and a naval force to cross the Pacific. There was need of a stopping place for both soldiers and bluejackets —Iionolulu. The Republlic threw in its lot with the United States, the warships and transports called at Honolulu, rested, and proceeded on their way to Manila. A Joint 478 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES Resolution of Annexation was introduced into the House of Representatives and passed. It went to the Senate and was passed by that august body on July 6, 1898, and the document was signed the following day by President McKinley. On August 12, a memorable scene was enacted in Honolulu in front of the old palace. In the presence of a detachment of U. S. Marines, Hawaiian soldiery, diplomats of many countries and with the entire personnel of President Dole's official family occupying a platform, United States Minister Harold M. Sewell, received from President Dole, the sovereignty of the Hawaiian Islands, on behalf of the United States; the Hawaiian flag was lowered from the palace flagstaff and the American flag was lloistel. A commission, appointed by President McKinley, consisting of U. S. Senators Cullom, of Illinois, and Morgan, of Alabama, and Representative Hitt, of Illinois, President Dole and Associate Justice Frear, for Hawaii, met in Honolulu and formulated a report in which was involved the future form of government for the Hawaiian Islands. From this the Organic Act was formulated into a bill and passed by the American Congress, designating the Hawaiian Islands as an integral and de facto territory of the United States, to go into effect on June 14, 1900, the Republican form to continue until that date. The Hawaiians became the best of American citizens and probably no unit of the American union has a better class of American citizens, despite the fact that, aside from the native Hawaiians, the citizen population includes a large number of men and women born of Asiatic parents. There are few distinctions of race or color in the Hawaiian Islands. The Hawaiians were never rea a regarded as a race separate and apart from the foreigners who entered their country. They take part in all civic affairs equally with those descended from other races. In the World War the Hawaiians showed their loyalty when they enlisted by scores before the draft. They garrisoned the islands forts, releasing the regulars. Many lost their lives on European battlefields, fighting under British or American colors. "0n to Manila! Bos in Blue of the American Army pass in review before r resident Dole, of the Repblie of Haawaii, an his eabinet xslh stand tpon the steps of the old royal palace. This was in 1898, ahen thousands of troops passed through HIonolIU3lu Hawaii dieeared herself an ally of the United States in the Spanish War 480 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES The Hlawaiians have emerged from the melting pot of civilization more loyal and better fit for the franchise than millions of the immigrants residing on the American mainland. Queen Liliuokalani, in her later days, was beloved by all Americans. She showed her devotion to America when she sponsored the organization of the 32nd U. S. Infantry regiment, at Schofield Barracks, Oahu, by presenting the unit with a beautiful silk regimnental flag bearing her own motto. This regiment is now often referred to as the "Queen's Own." CHAIPTER XXX LAS TI OF TH-'E OLD GUA RD SURVIVORS ARE FE\V IKE the fragments of the (rand Arlmee of Napoleon, long years after NVaterloo, when now andl then a forler soldier of the "Little Corporal" would be pointed out by the older generation to the new. so are the fragments of the old royal H-awaiian courts fe\ and far between. Out of all the bewildering galaxy of beautiful Hawaiian and foreign women who grace(l the courts of tie later Kamlehamehas and those of Kalakaua and Liliuokalani; of all tie gallant beaux, the handsome men who were members of the nlilitary staffs, only a straggling three or four survive today. Now and then at a public function which memilorializes the blirthlday (lliversary of a former sovereign, these survivors of the old (gulard are prominent figures. Queen Ellma, widlow of Kalmehamtleha IV, she of the graceful mnanner which so charmed Queen Victoria, held her court lwhen she was Dowager Queen, anid laamehamleha \ sat upl)On the throne, for she was "the lady of tile realm" alnd the hostess at the ptalace. Todlay, of this court there survive (nly Ltiucy P'eao(ldy, tie granld(laughter of Isaac Davis, who lainle(l in Ilaw-aii in 1790 againist his will, and whlo becamie a promlinent figure in I awaii. lHe nlarried the IIigh Chiefess K allaaalaplilo( a gellealogist of her lay. TIlere is Jennie Smythe, one of the la(lies-il-waitillg to (Queen Elmma. She was a (laughter of lKallakla Stilliman, wh]o lie(l recenltl a centellarian. Mrs. Smthle is the great-gret-granl ghter of Kahaoluolani, who wtas the foster-mother of Katilehalelha the Great, who concealed the lbaby for vyears at tlhe 'ali Tlulaana, il Kohala. There is also Mrs. Curtis P-. Iaulea, who( at tile coronation of Kalakaua and Kapiolani, in 1883, was a lady-in-waiting, she be 482 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES ing the wife of Colonel Iatkea, vice-chamberlain and an aide to the kinig. Still surviving, and also a lady-in-waiting, and present at that coronation, is Mrs. Lucy Peabody, a relative of Kapiolani, and a descendant of Isaac Davis, the Englishman whose semitragic arrival is a matter of history. As a lady-in-waiting that coronation day to Her Royal Highness Princess Likelike, sister of the king, was Miss Lizzie Coney, today Mrs. Elizabeth Renjes, who resides part of the time in New York and in Germany. She is the aunt of the present Mrs. Jay Gould, of New York, whose mother also was one of the "Coney girls," of Honolulu. She was Miss Ellen Coney, who married a Mr. Graham, and after a separation, again married. Her husband is Hubert Vos, the Dutch painter. Her daughter, Annie Graham, met youngc Gould in New York. The Goulds spen(l a part of each year in HIonolulu during the polo season, for Gould is a member of the Oahu Polo team. Mrs. A. N. Tripp (Sally Tripp) was also a lady-in-waiting at the coronation, a member of the old Hawaiian gentry. Her husband was Captain Tripp, a shipmaster, one time harbormaster at Honolulu. During the Civil War he sailed north toward the Arctic on a mission of peace from Honolulu to notify all who sailed the seas that the war was ended, and to prevent the Confederate cruiser Shclnan(doah from committing further piratical outrages, for her comm-ander, Captain W\addell, had wantonly burned a large part of the whaling fleet including a Hawaiian bark, the IHarvcst, at Ascension Island. Another survivor of the royal courts is Mrs. Emma Metcalf Beckley, afterwards Mrs. Nakuina, lady-in-waiting to Queen Kapiolani, her husband, the Chieftain Frederick \V. Kahapula Beckley, being, the king's chanmberlain and afterward the royal governor of Kauai. Afterwards, she was the first and only woman judge appointed during the (lays of the republic, being judge of water rights. She is a recognized authority on Hawaiian history. Colonel Iaukea is today, as he was decades ago, the tall, stately, courtly, suave gentleman of the court a diplomat whose life has been a succession of official duties associated with the monarchy, ILAST ()OF THE ()LD GL-ARD) 483 the Provisional Government, the Republic of Hawaii, and lastly the Territory of Hawaii and the County of Oahu. He was a close friend of King Kalakaua who gave him impl)ortant appointments, such as collector of the port, vice-chamberlain, chamberlain, major-general in the war department, colonel on his personal staff. He served also as chalmberlain during a part of the reign of Liliuokalani. In the long years subsequent to the overthrow of the monarchy, he became the queen's business agent, a trustee of her estate during her lifetime, and practically her chamberlain as of yore. He was present at her death and supervised the funeral arrangements, as he did those for Princess Kaiulani. 1His has been an interesting career, a picturesque one, for, after his royal service, he served as Secretary of the Territory by appointment of President Wilson. lHe was born at Waimea, Hawaii, December 13, 1855, the son of J. a. Iaukea, whio was a district magistrate of Hamakua. Hle was reared in Honolulu under the direction of his iuncle, a personal attendant of Kamelameha IV, and was educated, a ward of the government, under Archdeacon Mason of the Anglican church in Hawaii. In 1872, upon the death of Kamehamehla V, who had sent him to Lahaina to learn sugarboiling, he went to Hilo where his sister was residing. He was a close, personal friend of Prince Leleiohoku, heir apparent to the throne, and they were referred to as Damon and Pythias. It was at Hilo that Kalakaua, on tour, saw Iaukea and commanded him to resume his place at the palace. There he remained in one capacity or another until the overthrow. lTe was chief secretary of the department of foreign affairs in 1880, and in 1883, was sent as special envoy to the coronation of the Czar of Russia. After visiting the different courts of lEurope, to which he was accredited as Hawaiian envoy, he went to India and Japan to study the immigration question and to open negotiations for a labor convention between Hawaii and the governments of these countries. In Japan his mission was notably successful, resulting in the admission of large numbers of Japanese laborers into Hawaii to serve as plantation workers. He 484 UNIDER HAWAIIAN SKIES was collector-general of customs in 1884, and chamberlain of the king's household, crown land agent and commissioner in 1889. As chamberlain he was given special charge and care of the royal party attending the jubilee of Queen Victoria in 1887, which included Queen Kapiolani, Princess Liliuokalani, Governor Dominis and their several suites, an(d en route the party visited President and Mrs. Cleveland. Later, Iaukea was sent to London as secretary and aide-de-camp of the special embassy of the Republic of Hfawaii on the occasion of the diamond jubilee of Quecen Victoria in 1897. In 1898 he accompanied President Dole to Washington on the latter's visit to President McKinley, acting as secretary and military attache. Among the many foreign orders and foreign (listinctions that have been conferred upon him are the Grand Cross and Cordon of St. Stanislaus, conferred by the Emperor of Russia on tlle occasion of the coronation of 1883; officer of the French Legion of Honor, con-ferre(l 1) President Grevy of the Republic of Ftrance; Grand Cross of the Crown of Italy; Grand Cross and Rillbbon of the )rlder of Tokovo, Servia; jubilee and diamond jubilee medlals of Q'ucen Vhictoria; Knight Cotimllander of the Ordler of the lRisingl Sun of Japan; Knight Commander of the Swedish Order of St. Olaf, and all of the lf awaiial orders and decorations instituted l1y Kanmehameha V and y, Kalakaua. Iaukca is the only survivor of the royal court of Kalakaua. Lastly, Mrs. If arry ( Lahilahi) Webb, friend and companion of 1iliuokalani, who w\as at the deathle(l of the last queen of Hawaii in 1917, is now a valued member of the staff of the Bishop IlMseuml, giving frequent lectures on the rare feather cloaks that are treasured in the institution. CHAPTER XXXI ONLY THRONE ROOM IN AMERICA "IN THE PALACE OF TlHE KING" nMERICAN ideals of government have forbiddlen thrones, crowns, scepters, titles of nobility and other forms of royalty, while (lecades of self-government have created an aversion among the American electorate to rulers by right of succession; ye tthere is a throne, a throne roolm, a crown an(l a scel)ter within tl:e borders of the great Amlerican republic, visited (laily by Americans, principally tourists, who gaze with aldmiring yet dreamy eves upon the symblols of monarchy which recall to the imagination grand recel)tions, levees and presentations amid gorgeous settings stag-e(l for the rulers' state ap)l)earances 1before their subjects. \Where is this throne room ill (lellocratic America? \\Vhere are (lisl)laye(l symblols of rule by (livine right in this broad lanl of \America free(l from such a rule 1b the patriots of '76? In all the vast area from Maine to California, from the Great Lakes to the (ulf of Mexico, much of it a wild west half a ceiltury ago, there is not now a single territory. The sisterhoo(l of states embraces every square foot of the lan(1 withinl thie continental borders. But (lown in the sapl)llire-lhued waters of the Pacific, in the region unknownI until the great navigators, Gaetanlo, Cook and Vancouver sighted the shores of the H vawaiian Islandls, is America's infant territory of Hlawaii, born so when the United States made its humanitarian appeal to arms in 1898. And; in H-awaii remain the symilols of a f{ormer monarchy, cherishe(l treasures to those who (dwell there. Not many years before that historical year-one which marke(d an entire change in the policy of the American governmentthere had been a throne in the Htawaiian Island(s, and uplon that 486 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES throne for a century, rulers of two dynasties occupied the seat of power, held the scepter, and wielded the authority. Only five years before the American armies began their long voyage across the Pacific to Manila, the last ruler of the Kalakaua dynasty had been deposed, the throne overturned, the crown secreted, and a republic raised upon the ruins. The throne room was closed for a time. The officials of the new republic had not the will to transform it to another purpose. The dais, upon which the thrones rested, was left untouched. The heavy brocaded canopy which overhung it remained as it was when Liliuokalani, in state, received the diplomats of other countries. Even the gilded crown which surmounted the canopy, symbolizing the ancient regime, retained its place for years. From gilded frames the oil portrait likenesses of former native rulers, beginning with Kamehameha I, the founder, down to Liliuokalani, looked upon brilliant scenes. From huge frames, also, the likenesses, in oils, of Louis Phillippe, King of the French; Field Marshal Bliicher, of Prussia, and other great foreigners, had looked upon strange scenes in the throne room for sixty to eighty years. Across the lofty windows opening upon the porticos, fall the heavy brocaded curtains, just as they were draped in the monarchy, and today the throne room retains much of the atmosphere of the older days, although the present structure was not completed and occupied as a palace until the last clay of December, 1882. It replaced a smaller and less pretentious palace which had been used since the 'forties. The palace of Kalakaua was and is pretentious and ornate: a two-story, square building, superimposed upon a basement story and surrounded by stately portico,columns of iron and cement, the whole surmounted by an attic:story, topped with flagstaff tower rooms, a building of pleasing architectural lines, a combination of grace and stateliness which has won the admiration of visitors, even those who come from capitals filled with palaces. There were the state banquet hall, and the basement offices, the well-equipped kitchens and pantries and wine cellars, and in ONLY THRONE ROOM() IN AMlERICA 487 the second story the beautiful private apartments of the royal fanily. The throne room was a hall of well-balanced proportions, whose walls were pierced with many window-doors. The ceiling and walls were plastered white and garnished with mouldings. From the ceilings were suspended beautiful chandeliers glittering with crystal pendants, replicas of chandeliers seen in foreign buildings. Above each window was a pair of crossed Hawaiian spears, symbols of the days when Hawaiians fought with spears and javelins. Backed against the walls were rows of high-backed gilt and brocaded clairs, small editions of those upon the dais. The etiquette of the Court of St. James, first adopted during the reign of Kamehameha III and modified to suit modernl needs, prevailed in the throne room of the Islan(lers, and upon state occasions when a reception, levee or ball was given, it fairly blazed with gold-trimmed uniformas and the costly gems worn by the fashionably gowned women, both Hawaiian and foreign. The famous Royal Hawaiian Military Band, directe(l by Kappelmeister Berger, the bandmaster sent to Kamehameha V by Emperor William of Germany, played either in the ornate bandstand in the grounds, or upon one of the lanais adjacent to the hall. If the admiral of a fleet was being received-and many foreign warships visited Honolulu in those days-the clank of swords rose alove all other sounds, for the king and queen had extensive military staffs and believed in military displays. But the days of royalty are gone in Hawaii: the empty dais and the canopy and the heavy window hangings, the oil portraits of the formler dynasties, and the crossed spears are mute evidences that once upon a time kings and queens were wont to assert their sovereignty within those silent walls. But above the canopy the gilded eagle of republican America has replaced the gilded crown of monarchical Hawaii. W\here the king and queen formerly presided at state (inners the senate of Hawaii now holds its bielnial sessions. Where the king slept, in a big room above, the American governor of the territory, appointed by the President at \Vashington, now has UN DER FlA, \ANlA AN SKIES his office. Other formier royal belrooms are now occupied as offices by the attorniey-general, auditor, treasurer, and superintendlent of puIblic works, whose former titles of Minister of Finance, Minister of the interior, etc., are now replacedl lby the republican titles of treasurer, superintendent, and so oil. Down in the basement, where the wine was kept cool and the dishes were lprel'are(l by notal)Ie clefs, territorial officers carry on the affairs of government, while the stately throne room is nsed biennially by the Hlouse of Representatives. D)irectly behind the dais is a hardwood( door, screenedl by a heavyN curtain. In formier days tIme king passed throngh this dloor from the robing room, emierging at once npon the (lais. Nowadays the Speaker of the Hlonse uses this (loor and room, for he is the real king every two ysars. The lpalace was namied "Tolani," meaning "the bird of heaven." Kameiihameha NV, at a meeting- of the Privy Conncil held on December 7, 18,63, shortly after his accession, suggested the namie of St...,;Alexander Palace for the old structure,, but in the opinion of the council lolani Palace was a more a-!pplrop-riate (lesiggnation, antid the k~ing (lirectedl that it be the official title of his official residlence. The lpreselit palace, which cost $3150,000, stan(1s on the site of the first lpalace, which wvas comlpleted in 1845 and razedl in 18/78 to miake way, for the new. The cornerstone was laid December 31, 1879, the birthday of Queen Kapiolani. by the Mlasoinic fraternity of Hlonolulu, at the request of Kalakaia, who was a thirty-third degree Scottish Rite Mason and a Knight T'enmplar. N A Masonic banquet was given the night of Decemiiber 27, 1882, St. Jolhnis DIay, to mark the completionl. I-Folnoltulu is the third capital of the Hawaiaian Islands since April, 1795, when Kamiehamecha -the Great conquered the Kiing of ()ahultl at the battle of Nutnaun. 1 —Te immuiediatelv- ceased warringo- to (develop his emnlpire. Wh!Ns 'ezn, bv his owmii bravery, and illnlomitalle will, lie had b)ecomiie master of the larger p)ortion of the Islands, Kanimehiameha inmuiediately left his borne in fertile Kailtia, IHawaii, anld rem]lovedl to the barren. sun-(lricel beach at K-awaihae, fartther upi) the coast. On u A 11,IWS te laiaiikufla w~ weed orthelat tmef o, he enra toef f he ale6.Th Uute stte G 9;- -:r: — thtHl okoe ie fw lt Na(s h itr bov iela "iatfa 1 tIItee oteses 490 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES This woulld seem a strange proceeding on the part of the king, but historians assert it was only an evidence of superior wisdom. He gathered about him the conquered chiefs, his own immediate warriors and the wise councillors, and kept them continually with him, all dependent upon the king for their food and other necessaries of life which came from his own storehouses and were divided among them under his personal supervision. By this proceeding the chiefs became entirely dependent upon Kamehanmeha. Moreover, it was impossible to carry on any conspiracy or rebellious movement, for they had no means of their own to feed or support any of their adherents. Under these circumstances the king's wise men and councillors advised him to erect the temple of Puukohola, at Kawaihae, as a means of entrapping Keoua, the king's last contestant for supreme power on that island, who was also a relative. Thus came about the downfall of Keoua, through a trick, and the complete triumph of Kamehameha. Subsequent to this event the seat of government was removed to Lahaina, on the leeward side of the island of Maui. The policy of removing the government to that place, recently conquered, was regarded as a wise one. The traditional history of the country reveals that in the places last conquered the chiefs and the court were always retained together. The dominant thought in this policy was to render the people of the conquered provinces quiet and contented with their condition under their new chiefs, whom they were thus brought to recognize as their unloubted conquerors. At Lahaina (anciently called Lele, from the short stay of.lie chiefs there) was undertaken the first attempt to retain the establishment of the seat of government by the chiefs and the court, in consequence of which the "Hale Puila" was erected as a palace, but which in after years became a courthouse and contintued as such up to the time of its demolition. It was erected under the direction of Kahekili (Old Thunder), who was head man tunder Kamehameha I. ONLY THRONE RO(OM IN AMERICA 491 It is recorded that the chiefs probably intended to locate permanently at Lahaina, for there they first commenced an actual system of government by defining the different departments. Kamehameha III officially designated Lahaina as the capital. There, also, was convened the first legislature in the Hawaiian Islands. The first Constitution was promulgated at Lahaina on October 8, 1840, the document continuing the old Council of Chiefs as the House of Nobles, to sit in council with the kingl and the premier, and providing for additional members. The House of Nobles was in session at Lahaina from November 2 to 14, 1840. The seat of government was withdrawn from Lahaina to the island of Oahu, and established in Honolulu, owing to the importance of its harbor, its central position in the group, and the large increase in its population. The principal chiefs and councillors induced Kamehameha III to remove the government to Oahu in 1843, and he took up his residence in the "laleuluhe," at Pelekane (}1ritannia), in the vicinity of the l)resent 1l)iscopal cathedral. In July, 1844, Governor Mattaio Kekuanaoa, of Oahu, commenced to erect a, building (demolished in 1878), known at that time by the name of "Hanailoia." It was said, in an address made by the late John M. Kapena, minister of the cabinet under King Kalakana, at the laying of the cornerstone of the new palace in 1879, that in olden times a heiau (temple) extend(ld to this spot, the name of which was Kaahaimauli. The house was erected by the governor for his daughter, the Princess Victoria Kaamamalu, sister of the then Princes Alexander Liholiho and Lot Kamlehameha who became, respectively, Kamehameha IV and V. H-owever, Kamehameha III took possession of the house as his palace, and from that timle it was the palace of the Hawaiian sovereigns. The grounds then were much smaller, but through purchases of premises from the high chiefs who lived adjacent, the grounds were extended until the capitol grounds today form a very large square in the center of the city. John Young, the 492 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES Englishman rescued by Kamehameha in 1790, built a house in the one corner and this was later bought by the government. After the present palace was built, the real, homey home of Kalakaua was in the "Bungalow," a frame two-story structure near tle palace, looking like a residence in India, with its latticed porticos. There he enjoyed life, for the palace was too pretentious. In the l)alace grounds was the royal tomb, used up to 1865, when all royal dead were removed to the new mausoleum in Nuuanu Valley. The site is now a mound facing the Archives of Ilawaii building. In 1874 the Aliiolani Hale, or Government House was finished, facing- on King street and opposite the palace. Onl June 3, 1893, the palace was designated the "Executive Building," and President Dole and cabinet moved into it. The old government building was styled the "Judiciary Build]ing. The l)alace grounds were surrounded by a high wall, pierced with four main gates, always guarded by natty-looking Hawaiian sentries. Each gate had its particular name, such as the King Street gate, beiiig known as "Kauikeaouli Gate,' named for Kanelhalmeha III, the gate of state, through which only diplomats, highl foreign officials and the royal family could pass. There was the "Kilnanu (Gate,"' on Richards street, named after one of the premiers. There was the "tlaliimaile Gate" on Hotel street, through wlich the Ilousehold Guards and ohuas (retainers) passed. The "l ikelike Gate" was nalmed in honor of Princess Likelike, and was a private gate for members of the royal family. lThe paintings within the plalace are notable, including portrait: of all the sovereigns, their consorts, and some great chiefs. The one of Kamnehameha I was copied from the painting )y Clhoris, the Russian artist who visited Hawaii in 1816. Those of lKamehamleha II and his queen were painted in Lond{lon in 1824. Those of Kamehameha III and Kalama, the queen, were paintedl in Dlenmark alotut 1846 by Mr. Plum, an artist who visite(d H lawaii with Capt. Steen Bille of the Danish navy. The framles were ordered from Boston in 1850. The government purchased portraits of Kamehameh a IV and V. The portrait ONLY THRO)NEI R(OM)(J)il IN AME RICA 49(3 of King Lunalilo was purchased from the Kanaina estate for $100 in 1882. The portraits of Kalakaua and Lilinokalani wer:e painted by W. Cogswell, and that of Kapiolani by Hasselmann. The painting of Queen Emma was presented bly the Kapiolani Estate. The portraits of King Wilhelm of Prussia and Field Marshal Biliicher were presented to Kalmelamehal I l il 1830, ill return for a gift to the former of a feather cloak whicll is now in the Berlin Museum. The portrait of King WVilhelm's son, his successor, was presented by Prussia in 1848. Alout the same time the portrait of Louis 'Philippe was receivedl by Kamlehamleha I I at the entrance to the palace from the capltain of the Freech frigate Sarcellc. Iater on, it was learned that at the time the portraits were receive(l both kings were fugitives in England, both having fled wvhen revolution.s broke out ill their reslective countries. There is a portrait of Admiral Tholmas, of Englland, \who restored the Islan(ls to KIamehamelel a III in 1843. lThere are portraits of Alexander II of Russia, of several of the women premiiers, and of Presidelit Dole; Prince Kuhio, delegate to Congress; and enlarged portraits of the several governors, andl of various presidents of the United States since McKinley. Across froml the palace, in front of the judiciary building, is tle beautiful statue of Kamellanmeha I, wiich was authorize( l )b the legislature of 1878, to mark the centenary of the discovery of llawaii. It is of blrolnze and shows the conqueror wearing the famotis war cloak, leaning on a spear, lis arml aIlld han(l extende(d, bi(lling aloha (welcome). This statue is a relplica of the original, which salnk ill a vessel off tle Falklaind islands. The secolnd statue was received and set up. Thle foundered vessel was raised 1and the statue forwarded and( is now set up ill the district of (Kohala, Hawaii, Kaamehamehla's birtlh district. Inl the palace grounds is tile Archives of Hawaii lbuilding, ill which are stored the rare historical and other documents of the govertnment. Near by is the stately Kawaiahao church, built in the early '40s, and the gothic tonlb of King lTunallilo. Adjacent to the courtlhouse is the new federal buildling. CHAPTER XXXII LAMENT OF THE KAMAAINA THE CROSSROADS OF ADVENTURE SOLATION, after all, was the dominating charm of i Hawaii, of its capital city, in those old days before the cable linked the Islands with the great outer world; before wireless mysteriously bound them closer not only to the mainland of America, but with the romantic and little-known isles of the South Seas where primitive life may still be found; before fast steamers replaced the beautifully built, long, rakish vessels with masts and sails, whose every detail breathed a spirit of adventure and of voyages to strange lands and long sojourns apart from civilized realms. 1 —lonolulu, today, is a city much like any other city of its size or geographical l)osition. It is m'nodlern in its p)avel streets, its clanging trolleys, its thousands upon thousands of automobiles, its corps of traffic officers; its palatial bank, office and hotel buildings; its theatres, beautiful churches an(l costly residencesand its politics. Even the waterfront has changed to what is regarded as "tihe last thiing" in wharf facilities, bunkering and oiling of ships and loading and unloading of great cargoes. The life at Waikiki beach is similar to that at Palm Beach an(l Coronado, for Dame Fashion has extended her realnl from Paris and New York to Honolulu. The stores resemble those elsewhere. Is it any wonder that a kamaaina (old-timer), laments the "old days"-the "good old days?" Isolation, after all, was coupled with the abundant tropical verdure and the fine Hawaiian race was then unspoiled by too close contact with all the world. A week or two weeks went by in those old days between arrivals of slow steamers from "the States." Used to dwelling LAMENT OF THE -KAMAAINA 495 apart from the rest of the world, the non-arrival of steamers did not particularly annoy, irritate or embarass any one, resident or traveler. Travelers in those days were travelers, not tourists. Their voyages and cruises were planned with elaborate care and they visited Hawaii for a leisurely sojourn. It was not then a "trip." It was a "journey" and they "sojourned" in the cllarming mid-Pacific Eden. They arrived to remain weeks, enjoying the slow, but pleasant and interesting life when royalty presided and all things, official and social, revolved around the king's and queen's plans, and then lingered on for months. Old-time wooden warships of many nations remained many weeks. The officers became a real part of island life. They made lifelong friends. They came, many of them, as "middies" or ensigns, and often returned in later years as captains, commodores and admirals, to receive the same old hospitable aloha as in the past. This past was not always away back in the days of the Kamehamehas, but rather in the clays of the Kalakaua and Liliuokalani reigns, and the fast-changing (lays of the republic. Those were the days when writers and painters, poets and diplomats, explorers and scientists, delighted to leave the busy mainland and sail across the sapphire-hued seas to Honolulu, a romantic land which seemed to live up to their expectations, for they found a charm in the life of the royal court, and the homes of the hospitable foreigners and the Hawaiians. They reveled in horseback trips. llose were the days when the island steamers were small, but the passengers found pleasant companionship when they went to dreamyl old Hilo and rode horseback, or traveled in stages up to Kilauea volcano, where, upon the rim overlooking the seething cauldron of lava, they were welcomed at the hotel which was originally a log cabin with modern additions, a hotel which has been rebuilt and is today a modern, up-to-date hostelry, capable of handling hundreds of guests. \nother charming visit was over to Mana, on Hawaii, high iup on the slopes of Mauna Kea, where house parties were given 496 496 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES bvy genial Col. Samn Parker, close friend of royalty and Hawaii's Ibon vivant. The lpleastires of those (lays were long-drawn out. The auto had not arrived to annihilate time and distance. What the travelers saw in the old (lays they looked upon at length and absorbed the atmospheres of old IHawaii which prompted the writing of many loveable books on Hawaii, tribntes of a rare character to the beauty and charm of the Islands. The hotels were the rendezvous of all who came, as vell as of the local lpolptlation. The Hawaiian Band-it was "royal" in those (lays was an interlocking feature of everyday life, with p~cturesque Capt. Henri IBerger (who was the first German to mnarch into Paris in 1870 because he was leader of a regimental band) as leader, always wiel(linrig the baton at the lalace, at the wharf and aboard warships. The isolation of I-hawaii dlrew Robert Lonils Stevenson, Charles W\arren Stoddardl, Mlark Twaini, Lord ani-d Lady 1lrassey. Isabelle Bird. and many other preeminent writers and travelers to bask in the snnliglit of its picturesque life. It was a pleasure to wait for a steamer for (lays andc days anid then to hear the siren wvhistle downtovn blow three long lblasts. Honolulu slowly got into motion. In two hours the ol0( liner Rio Juiicirol, or the Citjv of Peking, or the M11aripos, long, narrow, rakish-looking steamers with towering masts and ' sharp lproN\Ns, wotnld turn in from the (leep sea and steam slowly up the channel into the harbor. Those were the (layms of scores of hJacks they were the (lays of I Caine's mtule cars, little TrollingC comnpartmenits (Irawn by (limiutivc motiles-cars which stol1ped opposite the meat market while milady \vent in alld got her package of meat and then resun eml her seat alnd was trundled on homewardl. Thiose were the (lays when the old 1ell mannial telephone svstern was one which, hal a real mitale "Central," who hadl olv to throw a switch anld all bells in residences jal-gledl ancl "Central'' tianuoulcedl that the Rio was "comlinc in. '[hose were the (lavs wh-lien Mrs. Ledvard Lansdale would call "Cenltral" to inform him LAN I tNT (OF THI;-E IKAXI AAINA\ 4k that if anly one called her in the afternoon to please tell the illquirers she was over at Mrs. Castle Helemai's home until halfpast four o'clock, and to ring her up there. "Central' was awfully obliging and kept the social calendar moving smoothly. A concert was to be given that evening at the old opera house 1y a singer just arrived, say, from Australia. The manager told "Central," and "Central" opened up all phones and informed the town that the performance would start at seven-thirty sharp. Honolulu, today, is a city of automatic telellhones and cables and radio systems which keep Hawaii in constant touch with the outsi(le world. Honolulu has its radio station, heard in manv parts of the mainland. Hawaii has its radlio telephone system. Plantation managers in a hurry to attend a meeting in Honolulu fly across channels in commercial airplanes. So, when the steamer comes up the channel, hacks joggle over the uneven streets (in those (lays) towards the old Pacific Mail wharf, the most important one then. It was long, low, saggy, and the (lirt of decades clung to it, but the people for all tlat had a lot of affection for the "Pacific Mail wharf." The boat eased up aloingside the wharf. The Hawaiian h)and was always there and "played" it in. Everybody on the wharf wanted to show hospitality to every traveler aboard the sliip. Strangers they might have been all their lives to those on the wharf, these travelers from St. Louis, Akron, Chillicothe, New York, Londlon or Paris, but that didn't natter. Often a stranger found himself in a hack with a couple of Ionolulans on the way to the Royal Hawaiian hotel. And how the old hotel leaped into life after a somnolent sevenl lays or two weeks. From the wharf the -Ionolulans flowed into the hotel in the wake of the new arrivals, and many into the cool basement barroom for "Scotch and soda," and other things, too, and that night the band gave a concert in the garden and the new people danlced with the "old friends" of a few hours' standing on the wide-open, cool lanais. Navy officers came ashore from their ships and spent a pleasant evening, and plans were made by all for picnics and horseback rides, or bathing parties at Long Branch or Sans Souci, and 498 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES dinner parties on home lanais or aboard the warships. Oh, they were real days, were those days. And how the San Francisco newspapers were read. Everybody went to the postoffice soon after the boat was in. It was the town's gossip rendezvous. Everybody met everybody else there, unless it might be at the fishmarket. "Loui" and others sorted the mail. The townspeople stood around and watched the proceedings, sometimes pitching in to help if the mail was unusually large. The women, Hawaiians and foreigners, of the highest in society, and others not so high, wearing holokus (the loose Mother-Hubbard-like gown affected by the island women) and lauhala (leaf) hats with wide brim, had much to talk about. The holoku then was the thing to wear, for it was very comfortalle. But how fashions changed! Foreign women (by that is meant Americans and English, and so on) never come to town in the holoku these days. They must wear the fashionable things, the latest modes of New York and Paris, and the lauhala hat has gone into the millinery discard. Everybody went over to the bookstore and bought a file of the coast newspapers. The file might be seven days old, but it was news and then the town sat down to read. In these days the files come, but few in comparison to the old (lays, for the news has already traveled by cable and radio and is old. Honolulu today reads the world's news of the day and night before at its breakfast table and its dinner table, for Honolulu has modern newspapers supplied with a news service that equals, in quality, that; of the greatest of the mainland papers. Every element of life in Honolulu has been changed by the departure from the old charm of isolation of a former hasteless era. The newcomer sometimes looks in vain for a certain charm that he has read of or dreamed of as a part of Hawaii, and misses it, for, after all, it was merely due to isolation. And so it will soon be with all the isles of the Pacific. CHAPTER XXXIII WHERE EAST MEETS WEST OR nearly a quarter of a century it had been lmly goo(d fortune to be assigned to the waterfront "beat" at Honolulu as a newspaper representative, and in that time I interviewed hundreds upon hundreds of the world's celebrities, either aboard steamers as they arrived off port from the "eight seas," or after they had reached the shore. Seldom did I miss a celebrity. I listened to the hopes of patriots, the tales of travelers, the braggadocio of "bucko" mates of South Sea trading ships, stories of heroism from war correspondents, plans of nations as told by diplomats, admirals, generals, adventurers and plotters. As the old sailor types of Robert Louis Stevenson's "Treasure Island" days have disappeared from the Pacific along with the picturesque fleets of canvas-topped sailing vessels of America's golden maritime era; just as the stately, rakish old steamers have been thrust aside by the marvels of the genius of modern marine architects, so I am reminded more and more by experience that most of the former carefree, swashbuckling, adventurous "soldier of fortune" types have disappeared, and the old era of news reporting is gone. They were beginning to pass even when the Hawaiian throne tottered and crashed in 1893. All these phases of swift, certain, and even lamented, changes from romance and adventure to cold-blooded gathering of news of today, spell also the change in Hawaii, which has settled down to an era of business efficiency, sans romance and adventure. Like the old bearded sea captains of the days of sails, who today, perchance, have become watchmen on wharves from sunset to dawn, but who formerly roanmed strange seas in pursuit of whales, traded down in the Lazy Latitudes, "blackbirded," maybe, and met with amlazing adventures, so the newspapermen of today have become mere cogs in the modern newspaper machin 500 UNDER -HAWAIIAN SKIES erv of Hawaii, as elsewhere; for the wireless and the fasttraveling ocean liners have removed from Hawaii its former isolation, leaving it almost featureless, like a glass of champagne untouched that becomes flat and zipless. Honolulu was isolated, though it was the early crossroads in the Pacific. Travelers called and recalled, or remained to bask in the entertaining and "different" life of Honolulu. The city was a real center of news. Interviews in those days were absorbing ones, and statements of personages often had their effect upon the world beyond. \\hen I pause to look back at those early (lays of my journalistic career ill Honolulu, just as Hawaii was entering the American union, my fancy marshals stirring events: the building of vast agricultural enterprises, distinguisheld nen and women, an array of interviews with world-known personages-generals, adllirals, statesmen, peers, princes and potentates, war correspondents, revolutionists, adventurers, sculptors, painters, lecturers, scientists, pacifists, captains of industry, crooks, athletes, writers, actors, prima donnas, sea captains, "bucko" mates, "fly-by-night" visitors, crooked sellers of alleged mliing stocks, decorated heroes, fugitives, men and women of varied nationalities, of every hue under the suln-for all these came under my eye and pencil in the daily routine of a newspaper life that lasted a generation. But gone are those days of romance and the picturesque. There were then among us titled persons of the old royal regime. It had a scattering of foreign peoples, just enough leaven to make one certain that here was a picturesque corner of the universe. And we lived in a drowsy ukulele-land. rThere were thrillinmg races for news, particularly coast newspaper files when stealiers arrived, the most serious competition among reporters. Back to the office we raced, the editor there handliing a paper to each member of the staff, for "Telegraph Brevities" had to be nia(le up in a hurry and slapped into the morning paper. We worked sometimes far into the night, but WHERE EAST Mr ElTS WIEST 0 5 01 the next morning The Advertiser blossomed out big as life with "the latest news of the world." Sometimes we had to go out in a gale to meet steamers. The launch or pilot boat heaved and slogged in the rough seas. Somletimes we were out nearly all night, soaked to the skin, with the editorial staff patiently waiting through the hours for us to return. There were crack sailing vessels in those days which made clipper-fast voyages. They came from the coast with lumber; from the South Seas with guano; from Southern America with nitrates; from San Francisco with general merchandise and provisions; from England, Scotland and Germany with fertilizers, fabrics and liquors; from China and Japan with silks and sake, soyo and Oriental curios; from Australia and New Zealand and Samoa with merchandise and mats. H-onolulu harbor often resembled a forest, with its many masts. These vessels remained here for weeks at a time. The masters and mates were personal friends of the best families and entertained extensively aboard their vessels. They were men who had been "running down" from San Francisco for years. Their friendships were the lasting kind. As big steamers began to replace sailing ships this type of captain began to disappear. New men, different from the old, hardened-lbefore-the-mast types of skippers, occupied the cabins and had little contact with the shore population. The tales those old sailors reeled off! Stories of South Sea islands and trading; tales of mutinies on tle high seas and drastic methods of suppressing such uprisings; the pursuit of whales; old "bucko" mates accredited with close relationship with pirates; of opium smuggling and of smutgglers; of typhoons and hurricanes; shipwrecks and life on lonely islands, awaiting a rescue by passing ships; of strange cargoes of merchandise and sometimes of human beings; of (lays when ship cabins were filled with curious things collected in every I)art of the worldl. But the fast and lhuge steamers have driven all the old fellows out. 502 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES Those were the days when war correspondents flowed through Honolulu, particularly when the Spanish, Boxer and JapanRusso wars were in the spotlight. I have interviewed them all -Jack London, Frederick Palmer and a dozen others, and took copious notes of their marvellous tales. I have talked with Bryce, Prince Pu Lun of the old Manchu regime; with tile august Prince Fushimi of the Japanese imperial house; with Dr. Sun Yat Sen, the Iawaiian-bred revolutionist who overturned the ancient Manchu dynasty. Four months prior to the revolt in 1911, Dr. Sun confided to me in the little editorial office of "The Liberty News" in Honolulu, the plan in general by which lie hoped to destroy the Chinese monarchy. I was astonished at his idea of establishing a republic, and asked him if he really thought of a republic like that of the United States. "Yes," he said. I asked: "With a president like George Washington?" "Yes," he replied. I suggested: "Then you may be the president, Dr. Sun?" He threw up his hands. "No, I have no ambitions that way; my lifelong hope is to overturn the monarchy and establish a republic." He did that. I have talked with Dr. Syngman Rhee, of Honolulu, the "president of the Korean Republic." I have written up Maj. Samuel Ivan Johnson, of Honolulu, the greatest soldier, and soldier of fortune of all, who lived among us many years, the champion military rifle shot of America, who became a hero at Vladivostok in the World War and was decorated by the governments of sixteen of the allied nations. I have boarded steamers and interviewed princes, diplomats, Buddhists, Brahmins, iconoclasts; criminals passing through under guard; castaway sailors rescued in the nick of time; interviewed Funston, Taft, Pershing, the Prince of Wales, Carol of Roumania, Lord Northcliffe, Calve, Melba, Schumann-Heink, Kubelik, Paderewski, Heifetz; and Jellicoe, Lord of Battles. The late Queen Liliuokalani was, in all, a remarkable woman, and I had many chats with her in the privacy of her home, Washington Place, and in my own home. She was among the first of the royalties since the French revolution to lose her iV i t d~~~~~~ Iii~ii 4 J-. c~~~i~ V\~4 504 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES crown, but destiny, apparently, was back of this lamentable necessity. I saw her that November 11, 1917, when she breathed her last —was standing then at the door of her death chamber. I saw, also, the passing of Prince Kuhio, Hawaii's delegate i: Congress, a prince of the old regime, on that early morning (cf January 7, 1922. Like the old, pipe-smoking sailor-watchman on the wharf today, who may have been master of a clipper a half century ago or less, who likes to let his thoughts ramble back to the palmy days of mariner life, so does the newspaper man of the old regime like to soliloquize upon a day that will never return. CHAPTER XXXIV THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS GEOGRAPHY OF THE GROUP N THE (lays of '49, when Americans suddlenly discovered that California was the modern El Dorado, and there was a rush from the four corners of the earth to share its riches from mountains, valleys, gulches and rivers, the Hawaiian Islands sprang equally into prominence as a provider foi California. Corn, wheat, potatoes, and many other products of the soil were shipped to the Golden State. Hawaii thrived on her sudden prosperity as an exporter of products that today are now mostly imported from the mainland, for Hawaii's great agricultural areas are devoted now principally to sugar cane and pineapples. In the days of '49 it was a tedious voyage of weeks on a sailing vessel between San Francisco and Honolulu. Steamers began to stir the waters of the Pacific and gradually the time was cut down from weeks to nine and ten days, then to eight, then seven, and today the voyage over the beautiful ocean, sparkling in the rays of the sun, for Hawaii is in the "sunshine belt" steamship routes, is nmale in six (ays, as an average, on the many liners that now ply regularly between California and Hawaii. It is a voyage never to be forgotten. The comforts of modern travel are at the command of the traveler. It is now a "satinslippered" trip from anywhere on the American mainland down to Hawaii, up to the volcano and to almost any place in the Islands, whether it be to the wondrous Waimea Canyon of Kauai, with its glorious colorings so like those of the Grand Canyon of Arizona; or to the edge of the active, roaring, magnifi ]9 506 UNDER HA\WAIIAN SKIES cent l-talemaulmau crater in Kilauea volcano. The voyage is through a series of clays that breathe of the soft, balmy climate of Hlawaii. As the miles diminish the air becomes more balmy and then the steamer itself comes into this zone of the trade winds blowing dlown from the Arctic Ocean throughl Behring Strait. Passing over the verdure-tipped summits of the great mountain ranges, the trade wind stirs the foliage of the mountain slopes and of the plains and wafts gentle zephyrs over the bathing lbeaches, so that in Honolulu the homes are built with great, wide doors and wide living-verandas, or lanais, as the Hawaiians call themn, and there, half in the open, the people are found by the travelers to be living a life of sovereign ease. The Hawaiian group extends from 18~ 50' to 22~ 20' North Latitude, and 154~ 53' to 160~ 15' West Longitude. The Islands lie about 2080 miles west and southwest of San Francisco, six days and less by steamer from the Golden Gate and eight to ten days steamer distance from Japan. The group consists of eight principal islands-Hawaii, Maui, Molokai, Lanai, Oahu, Kauai, Niihau, Kahoolawe and several smlall islets. Nihoa is an interesting but tiny islet about one hunclred and twenty miles northwest of Kauai. By Act of Congress and )by proclamation of President Roosevelt, many clots of islets to the westward, extending as far as Midway Island-on which is located the relay station of the Conmmercial Pacific (Mackay) Cable Conmpany-the islets there are called the Bird Reservation and are under the jurisdiction of the mlayor of H1onolulu. These islets include Lysiansky, Necker, French Frigate Shoals, Pearl and Hermes Reef, Laysan, Ocean andl Midway Islands. To southl of -onolulu a few hundred miles-seven days travel by ptower fishing sampan-are the Palmlyra Islands, once supl)osed to be undler tile jurisdiction of Great Britain, but certainly now under the United States and owned by Honolulu citizens. There are fifty islets in the group, now and then being develope(l by a company for copra, and the fish which alound THE HAW\VAIIAN ISLANDS I)S 507 in these waters. The islands were bought for $750. Recently the navy accomplished a feat when it sent a small Eagle boat with a seaplane on its deck to Palmyra. The islands were surveyed by boat and by navy seaplane, and it was determined that in case of necessity they afford opportunity for a built-lp harbor and naval base. Kinilglan's Reef, nearly, has been ad(led. Other small islan(ls which form part of the Hawaiian group proper, but detached and consideral)ly to westwardl, are: Nihoa, known as Bird Island; ILehua, a slnall islet off the northern point of Kauai, having an elevation of 1000 feet; Molokini, an extinct volcano, lying in the channel midlway between Maui and Kahoolawe; Kaula, the smallest islet of tle group, situated seven nmiles southwest from Niihau. Of the larger islands in the main groulp, only eight are inhabited. Kahoolawe, once abandoned, is now a cattle ranch ownedl by the Baldwinl sugar planters of Maui. These Islands l)resent a variety of soil, clilmate and natural products. Sugar is the staple product, the output in a banner year-which the war interrupted —being close to 750,000 tons. Rice, at one time second in importance, has fallen far down the list, while pineapples, which a quarter of a century ago were mostly a garden pro(duct, now take second place, with a pack in 1926 of 7,300,000 cases, finding a market in every part of the world andl regarded as the most delicious pine product on any market. The H-awaiian pine has achieved a prominllece in the mlarlket which is phenoimenal, and as a result the pineapple factories in Honolulu and on the other islands are enormous canning plants. To provide facilities for handling fresh pinealpples grown on Molokai, Maui and Lanai, shipped on barges to Hlonolulu's canneries, the territory is cutting a ship canal fromi Honolulu to Kalihi harbor and will build extensive wharves. Bananas are also a profital)le export as well as rice. Coffee is holding its own, (lespite difficulties of labor in handling the crop and the low price. Tobacco is a fine product but the growers have experienced (lifficulties in marketing. Hawaiian coffee is pro 508 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES nounced one of the finest products of the world, and for many years the War Department took the largest part of the crop for use in its army. Coffee is raised principally in the Kona district of Hawaii island, hence the name "Kona Coffee." There are many medicinal plants indigenous to the Islands, and an almost endless variety of fibrous plants. The soil and climate favor the growth and perfecting of every plant, shrub and fruit common to sub-tropical countries, while on the higher elevations of Hawaii and Maul the fruits, cereals and grasses of the temperate zone do well. Citrus fruit grow to perfection, as do also loquat, mango, tamarind, ohia or mountain apple, breadfruit, papaya or pawpaw of the West Indies, avocado or alligator pear, pineapple, native strawberry, raspberry; thimbleberries growing near the volcano, ohelo or native huckleberry also growing largely near the volcano. There are several varieties of forest trees producing lumber for furniture and building, including- the koa, which takes a wonderful polish and from which are made all manner of curios, platters, calabashes; ohia, a hard timber which is used for floorincg. Sandalwood, once plentiful, has been exhausted. The native grasses have been almost exterminated by cattle, sheep and goats. Their places have been taken by imported grasses. The government has proclaimed forest reserves and is fencing much of this area and planting new trees. Goats are yet a mienace to trees and shrub growth. Gamle, once alundant in the Islands, is not so plentiful, ltle to the rapid population expansion in the Islands, the cultivation of valleys and mountain slopes for sugar cane, pineapples and the gradlual use of mountain tops for dwellings. Peacocks were once conmmon on Maui, but not now. Turkey, pheasant, California quail, I)lover, (luck were once plentiful, but today plheasants are iml)orted from Japan and China and are no longer as wild as hunters would prefer. Small herds of deer are yet to be found on Molokai which is not so densely populated as the other islands. Wild goats, wild cattle and wild hogs still afford good THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 509 shooting on various islands, particularly on Hawaii, Maui and Molokai. The waters surrounding these Islands abound in fish, but with the increase of population, and the decrease in grazing lands for cattle and sheep, the fishing business has grown rapidly. Japanese control 90 per cent of all fishing in the Islands. They use sampans exactly like those in Japan, most of them equipped with powerful gasoline engines. As the fishing fleets are enlarged and the fishing is done on a wholesale scale the waters close to the Islands are found less advantageous for fishing. Sampans now go out hundreds of miles, remaining a week or two weeks, returning with their ice-filled holds chock-a-block with fish, principally the ulua, mullet and many kinds of fish that are so brilliantly colored, so bizarre of shape, tlat they are called "painted fishes," and most of the species are to be seen in the wonderful aquarium in Honolulu. Now the rich fishing grounds around Palmlyra and Johnston Islands, five (lays' sampan trip, are invaded to supply Honolulu markets. Hawaii, the largest island, is ninety miles long by seventythree miles broad; and contains scenery of the sublimnest and grandest character. It is interesting as the island where the great circumnavigator, Captain Cook, was killed. An obelisk has been erected to his memory at Kaawaloa, where he fell. The last British naval crew to visit the place and attend to repairs was that of the light cruiser Calcutta, in March, 1922. Hawaii was also the birthplace of the conqueror, Kamehameha I. A fine statue has been erected to his memory by tlhe Hawaiian Government in Kohala (like the one in Honolulu), to commemorate his nobility of character and statesmanship. The island of Hawaii possesses many rare features of interest. Amongst them is the famous "City of Refuge," at Honaunau, not far from Kealakekua Bay where so much history was recorded. This most interesting relic of pagan (lays is a large enclosure walled witli massive stones accurately fitted together. Within these walls anyone who had committed a crime was safe from 510 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES the immediate vengeance of others and was entitled to a fair hearing of his case by the attendant priests who lived in the city. This is by far the most historical place in Hawaii, related indissolubly with the lives of some of Hawaii's greatest men and women. There was the dwelling of Keawe, after whom the "Hale o Keawe," at the north end of the Puuhonua east wall, was named. The terraces today indicating the site of this house are situated at the northern end of the Puuhonua mauka wall. Originally there were three terraces, not four as at present, for the Hale o Keawe and the great walls, torn down by tidal waves and other causes, have been rebuilt by the Bishop Estate in as near the original form as knowledge of venerable men can indicate their original appearance. About the middle of the lower terrace was a kauila wood gate, opposite the door of the HIale o Keawe. On the second, or middle terrace, offerings were made-a human being, a pig and a bunch of bananas constituting a single offering. On the highest platform the house (hale) was situated. Keawe was one of the greatest kings of Hawaii, and contrary to usual custom, his bones were buried in this site. Upon the reefs or causeways fron the shore to the point of the City of Refuge, which projects into a little bay, the fugitives could pass. There are orifices in the lava today which show where the standards of the kahilis stood. On reaching the standards the fugitives were safe. The City of Refuge is remarkable for the ilmmense size of the stones used, wonderment being expressed by visitors as to how the Hawaiians raised them into position without mechanical aids. The principal motif, apparently, in the construction of the great walls of the Puuhonua was impressive bulk. Surrounding the wall were hideous idols in ancient times. The temple, like others throughout the Islands, including idols, was (lestroyed( by royal proclamation in 1819. A splendid motor road now connects Honaunat with other towns, so that a visit to this rare place is no longer difficult. One sits in a motor on the entire circuit of the Island of Hawaii. THIIE H1-AW\AIIAN ISLANDS 511 In the vicinity of Kealakekua and Kailua, the latter the former royal headquarters and the first mission of the missionaries il 1820, are numerous caves, in many of which were secretly buried the lones of high chiefs and kings. 'There is anl air of sepulchral quiet about the bay of Kealakekla, a(ld superstition still holds sway there. No Hawaiian evinces curiosity to peer into the caves piercing the lofty cliff. Rare feather cloaks, mutmulus, canoes, ancient implements are in these caves. No one touches them. The ascent is almost impossible. The government protects these tolmbs of the great. The chief attraction of this island is the volcano of Kilauea, the largest active volcano in the world. The approach to it is picturesque il the extreme. The great crater is three mliles across. Ill the center of the crater is a pit, calledl 1lale-mlau-mau ("H'ouse of Fire"), and that is the volcano, belching its lava upward, always upward, sometimes overflowing the pit into the great crater, always a fascinating and awesome sight, its fires never quenched. A concrete motor road connects the seaport city of Hilo with the volcano, where the Volcano I-louise, a modern hotel, houses visitors. From its verandas the activities of the pit, three miles distant, can always be observed. In May, 1924, an explosive eruption, first of the kind since 1790, took place. Kilauea volcano and all the extinct craters around, the forests of native trees and the heautiful fern groves are now a part of the Hawaii National Park, under the supervision of the Bureau of National Parks of the Department of Interior, at W\ashington. The volcano is to Hawaii what the geysers are to the Yellowstone. In;April. 1926, Maunnla Loa becam-ne active. Iava swept down1 to tile ocean (lestroving(," tle fishin, villltage of I loopuloa. Many steamers each week call at ports of Hawaii from Hlonolulut. The Inter-Island Steam Navig'ation Company has a fine steamer on this run for tourists, and in 1923 put on a new steamer with a capacity of three hundred and fifty passengers. large and commodious as any ocean liner, to carry passengers on the "Volcano run," making two trips a week. A much larger liner will h)e built for service in 1928. The 'Matson Naviga 512 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES tion Company makes visits with its big liners to Hilo. The Los Angeles Steamship Company, with two huge steamers, call at Hilo. Any of these routes are convenient and enables visitors to see much of the varied scenery and many wonders of nature on the island. A railroad line running out of Hilo, passes along the Hamakua coast, crossing dozens of gulches, going through tunnels, hanging over precipices above the wave-lashed shores, a railway trip that is a series of sharp surprises every mile. It also runs in another direction to Glenwood, within eight miles of the Volcano House. The volcanic system of Hawaii is grand, the gigantic peak of Mauna Kea, snow-capped, rising to an altitude of 13,805 feet; the sister peak of Mauna Loa piercing the air with its shining crest at 13,600 feet. Mauna Loa is intermittently active, craters breaking out on its slopes in unexpected places and sometimes pouring lava across the government roads, one being as late as 1920, called the Alika Flow. In June, 1926, another flow descended on the Kona-Kau side, and totally destroyed the Hawaiian fishing village of Hoopuloa, including wharf and harbor. Kilauea crater is 4000 feet above sea level. The United States army has established an aviation landing field in the great crater of Kilauea, within half a mile of the lava pit called "Halemaumat." Airplanes from the army base at Honolulu land frequently in Kilauea. Hilo is a lovely city, crouched on a gently rising slope from a crescent-shaped bay, formerly known as Byron's Bay, named after Lord Byron, the English navigator, who visited it in the frigate Blonde in 1825. It is a city almost covered with trees and other verdure. Near it are sugar plantations. It has hotels, fine public buildings and enterprise. It has two of the finest wharves in the territory, from which are shipped all of the sugar of the Hilo, Puna and Hamakua districts. A breakwater protects the harbor. Huge "round-the-world" liners now call at Hilo and (ock directly at the wharves. T H E HANN VAIIAN ISLANDS 5 1.3 Maui, the second largest island, is forty-eight miles long and thirty miles broad. It is famous in Hawaiian history, and though much of its glory and romance has departed, giving place to utilitarian industry and enterprise, it yet possesses points of interest to the lover of nature that are peculiar to itself. On the western half of the island the Valley of Iao is of great interest and beauty and is referred to as the Yosemite of Hawaii. The eastern half of the island rises to the height of 10,000 feet, and on the summit is the great crater of Hale-a-ka-la ("House of the Sun"), the largest extinct crater in the world. This wonderful crater is about twenty-four miles in circumlferen-ce, with walls rising 2000 feet, and abounds with volcanic scenery of the most varied description. Recent research in the bed of the volcano shows that it was in ancient times used for the construction of heiaus (temples), and for domiciliary purposes, and possibly was the scene of fierce battles, as great quantities of spear heads and other implements of warfare were unearthed about 1920. The ascent of Haleakala is made by motor to Olinda and thence on horseback to the summit, where a rest-house awaits the overnight visitors, for sunset and sunrise are the great features of this remarkable visit to the roof of the world. Maui is an island of vast sugar plantations, magnificent gulches and beautiful scenery. The Baldwins own miuch of the sugar development and have beautified the islands in a pro bono publico spirit, the spirit tllat was passed on to his public-spirited sons by H. P. Baldwin, father of the clan. The community life on Maui is pleasant. Kahului is the principal port for oceangoing steamers, with up-to-date concrete wharves and a breakwater. Most of the sugar and canned pineapples grown on Maui are shipped from Kahului. At Lahaina, on the opposite side of the island, is a landing for inter-island steamers. Lahaina was anciently the home of kings and chiefs. Its bays were favorable for canoe fleets, and today the United States navy uses Lahaina bay as a rendezvous for its submarine fleets and destroyers and for naval 514 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES nlaneuvers. This was a favorite rendezvous for the great American Armada il 1925. Mala Bay wharf, completed in 1922, permits steamers to range alongside, an improvement over the old transfer in small boats from steamer to landing and vice versa. Kauai, most northerly of the eight islands forming the group proper, is the most beautiful. Its scenery lacks the stupendous gran(leur of the mountains and gorges of Hawaii, and there are no vast plains as on the islands of Maui and Oahu. But its central peak is the oldest, probably, of any of the islands, and has lbeen worn down by the elements until its outlines are all softly mnoulded and the many valleys which radiate from the central moutlntailnous backbone are clothed with an abundant vegetation, amongst which are to be found trees and plants peculiar to the island. Kauai s island government was the first to recognize the automobile as a permalnent transportation feature, and built a road skirting the shore much of the way, but also through hills and p)lains, that connected the principal towns from Waimea, near which town are the famous "barking sands," and the wonderful Waimea Canyon with its remarkable likeness to the Grand Canyon of Arizona, revealing amazingly vivid colorings, to Lihue, the country seat, located near the port of Nawiliwili which is to be developed into a first-class port, the federal government cooperating with the territorial government in this new enterprise. Tlhe road goes on frolm Lihue to Hanalei, where is to be found the wost beautiful bay that tourists are permitted to gaze upon. )n the northwest coast are the famous Na Pali cliffs and precipices; but this part, owing to the rugged nature of the country, is devoid of a road. The cliffs are colossal and wonderful. The wall of rock extends some distance inland. Visits to Kauai, called "The Garden Island," reveal scenery that is different from that on other islands. It has often been referred to as the "baronial island," for the Wilcoxes, Gays, Robinsons, Rices and Knudsens are among the wealthiest of all Hawaii's stugar planters and ranchers. They are cultured folk who have plougled the soil, covered the ranges with cattle and THE HAWAIIAN ISLANI\D)S 515 horses, built handsome residences, established gardens such as the one on the summit of Kukuiolono ("The Torch of Lono") where Alexander McBryde carried his hobby into creating remarkable gardens and vistas until it rivals in beauty (;olden Gate park of San Francisco, gardens which are open to the public. In fact, the Kauai planters are noted for openheartedness with which they have devoted their wealth to plullic enterprises and needs, hospitals, and libraries. Kauai has seaports where island steamers call many times a week from Honolulu. Oceangoing steamers anchor at Port Allen (Eleele) and Ahukini, carrying out huge cargoes of sugar, canned pineapples and farm products. The b)reakwater ulnder construction at Nawiliwili and the necessary pliers and a)proaches and railheads will cost millions. There are picturesque waterfalls; the Barkinl or \;Vhisperilng Sands that, when set in motion on their slopes, give forth a peculiar sound like a small dog's bark; there are gloomy caverns to explore; there is the famous "Spouting Horn" near Koloa, a vent in the lava apron over the sea through which waves send up geysers to a height of eighty to a hundred feet. Everywhere, there is tie old style, generous hospitality upon Kauai. The island contains 350,000 acres, is twenty-two miles in length by twenty-five in width. Upon the summit of Mount WVaialeale, high above the cloud racks, there is a morass and there is recorded the greatest rainfall, year in and year out, in the islands, paralleling the heaviest precipitation in other parts of the world. Molokai, northward of Miaui, is not as frequently visited as other islands, although it presents some of the most beautiful, rulgged and wild scenery in the group. It is an island of contrasts. The western end is bleak and barren. The eastern end is green and beautiful, with waterfalls dropping hundreds of feet into the ocean. It has quaint Hawaiian villages in almost inaccessible valleys, reached principally by boats from steamers which anchor somile (listance out. There are still many grass houses on Molokai. 516 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES Under the provisions of the Hawaiian Rehabilitation Act, or Hawaiian Homes Act, passed by the United States Congress in 1921, some favored areas of Molokai were selected by the territorial government on which to try the experiment of putting Hawaiians back upon the soil, that they may attempt the rehabilitation of their fortunes, rear their families into sturdy children, with the hope that the Hawaiian race may be increased rather than continue to decrease at its present alarming rate. Water is being developed in tunnels and wells, and much is piped across the mountains to supply the acres. Small farming is featured. The products are sold in Honolulu. It is one of the most remarkable forms of rehabilitation of a race attempted for al)origines. The principal ports on southern Molokai are Kaunakakai, which is the Homes Commission port; Pukoo, the ancient landing; and Kolo, a newly established port laid out and built by Libby, McNeil & Libby, to serve their great acreage devoted to pineapples, the fruit to be shipped in barges to the Honolulu canneries. Molokai is becoming a great agricultural center. Contrary to general belief, Molokai is not a "leper island." On the small peninsula of Kalawao-jutting out a long, almost flat area of land into the sea, bounded on the land side by colossal, almost unscaleable cliffs-is the leper settlement, absolutely apart from the remainder of the island, and a very atomic part of it. The settlement was established in the 'sixties of last century for the isolation aind treatment of lepers, a home for them until they passed to their final reward. The world was electrified about four years ago by the announcement of a new method of treatment of leprosy, the treatment and the specific therefor being lplanned out of Claulmoogra oil, by Dr. Harry T. H-olhlla, then of the United States Public Health Service. Not being a laboratorian he was assisted in the preplaration of the specific by Miss Alice Ball, a young woman from America, who worked in the laboratories of the University of Hawaii on this work. This treatment has greatly arrested the course of the THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 517 disease, and the treatment has begun, at last, to conquer one of the worst enemies of the human race. Molokai is forty miles long and seven miles broad, and contains 200,000 acres. With new prots being developed, Molokai is destined to become a strategic agricultural unit of the group. Lanai, to the south and west of Maui, is now wholly given up to agriculture. The Baldwin family, of Maui, owned the island of Lanai in its entirety and planned to make a great ranch of it. It was to have become the "model ranch of the Pacific." With sheep and goats running wild over the land for years, the verdure was eaten off and the soil blew off in great clouds until much of it became barren. Then came the task of reclaiming the island. Upon the island are treasure hoards of picture rocks, upon which are queer and unknown carvings, which are being studied by the scientists of the Bishop Museum. The key to the pictographs has not yet been found. Possibly, should the key ever be discovered, the story of Hawaii's creation may then be told. The island contains about 100,000 acres. In 1923 the Baldwins disposed of most of the island to the Hawaiian Pineapple Co., of Honolulu, the foremost pineapple producer in the Islands for many years. The company has established on Lanai one of the largest pineapple plantations known. Already Lanai City has been established, the headquarters of the company on the island. An initial outlay of $600,000 was made to develop a channel and construct a concrete wharf at Kamaulapau, which is now the pineapple harbor of Ianai. A breakwater to protect the harbor was finished in 1926. The fresh pines are now barged across the channels to Ionolulu for canning. Oahu, considered the principal island of the archipelago, because Honolulu, the capital city, is located on the leeward shore and possesses the finest harbor in the Pacific, is devoted largely to the growing of sugar cane, pineapples, bananas, rice, sisal and taro. From the latter, a tuber, is made the national dish, poi. There are also many large cattle ranches, some supplying beef cattle for the market, others conducted as dairies to supply 518 UNDER HA\VAIIAN SKIES HIonolulu with milk and cream. It has a railroad line skirting the leeward shore from Honolulu to Kahuku, there connecting with a small freight rail line running to Hauula. This passes through Laaie, the seat of the Mormon industrial enterprise, a sugar plantation. At Laie one of the most beautiful of temples has been built 1)b the Mormon church. Kamehameha H-ighway, named after the Conqueror, passes out of Honolulu through Nuuanu Valley and over the famous Nuuanu 'ali, where Kamehameha's final battle was fought and where the Oahuans were completely routed, then down to the windward side of the island, by a winding concrete road cut out of the side of the mountain, an engineering feat. From the pali a visitor is afforded one of the most beautiful of views, for the windward side of the island is spread out below and beyond as though one were gazing from the cockpit of an airplane flyilg' over the island. There is a sheer drop from the pali of a thousand feet. Beyond are the rolling hills, the farms and gardens, the picturesque bays, the outer suburbs of Honolulu at Kailia andl \aimanalo, and then the vast ocean. A concrete road runs for miles and( miles along the shore and with the cooperation of the federal government the territory is constructing twelve additional miles of this type of road, so that in a few years the eighty-five mile auto ride around the island will be one of the finest known. The road passes through pineapple fields, sugar plantations, quaint villages then through Schofield Barracks, the greatest army post under the American flag, with accommodations for nearly twenty thousand troops; through deep gulches, and then skirting Pearl Harbor on the shores of which the Pearl Harbor Naval Station has been developed, the road passes through more plantations and then reenters the town by wray of Fort Shafter, the headquarters of the Hawaiian Department of the United States army. In I-Ionolulu are located the offices of the territorial government, the United States departmental representatives, the mayor and city government, all the great business houses of the territory. the plantation agencies, the banks and trust companies, the iron I --- -11- i i r a —*i — ~~,;,.~:r;,~~ i..i w; (B ~ I,: ~~~E .$ ~ -,~ ,; '"*`.-i. ~`"E I i;;" ~`~ F~:; I ~" ~ ~ %;Bi. I i," " la~r, E:; "," IWI aa ~i;~~k. , ~i"i ~arar " B~ ':5 ; ; L. ; ~$:' 9 Vcb ~ :;~ j ;n~ar:. t.4: ~,,.ar~ ~ I 111: I $i "'WnilEli 11 i-E~,: i B:"L:IF I ;~~Ii~ " ~ ~;1~E' P ei iil s~9 s-lsna ILB iiFi a-;4 ~~ b i I~r ~rr i F 14a iii"' ~ri.~g '" B na,. ~;~'"Ii~,, ~" ~9~~ p~r I~~;, iplipIilli '"19i inissl~ ~i4: ~;i" I~,ir pi~I,, :;""""iliii~ ;8 r~iki ~ ~i~.;i: irl 1~: ~~.~~~; si ~r ~~ ~,;:i,i;;8';~i~"1 "I:: fi-~ '6"1~ i_ ~'"~~;"II;~ I; ~~ ' 'I~ ' ~~s~ ::~: :~:::; f(~a~fB8i~tiai; lo-erleiJb Il(eeL 0% islns ic;htt Iea aeeorcd ii a93r OeXl,)j 80 ilua;rlr Iwaixr vulr>k Hm Ibiri Nerv Enlsl3d Iiioc, Oa Illa birt;ta, r;vhert a liroa, Iraarbslpcee, ftPee~t;ed P1SI eit;fstxls Of ;icue~zlii, ~rr iursttllcrc. 520 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES works, the hotels and theatres, and the great warehouses and canneries. The bulk of the cargoes brought from other ports is unloaded on the Honolulu wharves. Oahu has an area of six hundred square miles. The former royal palace now houses the offices of the governor, the attorney-general, and the Secretary of the Territory. The old throne room, preserved as it was in monarchy days, is now used by the House of Representatives every two years, while the old state diningroom, on the opposite side of the central corridor, is used by the senate. The old government house, now the judiciary building, faces the palace, upon Palace Square. Near it is the new Federal building, housing the post office, customs bureau, internal revenue department, United States marshal, United States district judges, and the federal weather bureau. The territorial office building, occupied in 1926, adjoins the judiciary building. Completed in 1926, the "Aloha Tower," a lofty structure over Piers 8, 9 and 10, at the foot of Fort street, is one of the mo-t conspicuous objects in Honolulu. It carries four clock dials, and above these appears the word "Aloha," cut in the concrete just below the dome, Hawaii's welcome to all visitors from abroad, a word that will be illuminated at night. In 1927 will be completed a $2,000,000 hotel-the new Royal Hawaiian Hotel-at Waikiki, to meet the constantly increasinlg tourist travel to the Islands. Honolulu has a population in excess of 100,000. The Hawaiian Islands are the most conspicuous objects in the Pacific Ocean. They are all mountainous, and, from a scientific standpoint, nlostly of volcanic origin. From their highest summits down to the lowest depths to which excavations have been bored, the soil is found to be lava in various stages of decomposition, and below it coral. It all seems to be melted earth, fused in volcanic furnaces, which has been poured out in titanic masses, forming the mountains of Konahuanui, 3100 feet high, on Oahu; Waialeale, 8000 feet, on Kauai; Haleakala, 10,200 feet, on Maui; Hualalai, 9000 feet, on western Hawaii; Mauna THE HAWAIIAN ISTLAND)S 521 Loa, 13,760 feet, in middle Hawaii; and Mauna Kea, 13,950 feet, forming a triangle with Mauna Ioa and lHualalai. Volcanic action has ceased on all islands except Hawaii-at the craters of Kilauea and Mauna Loa, and there opportunity is afforded to see the island still in process of formation and building up, foot by foot, as lava gushes out of a vent and flows out upon the landscape. And how do these verdant islands, looking like pin-dots upon the map, or even upon the seas, appear to travelers as their steamers approach the Islands? There, in the early dawn, appears the hazy outline of lofty Haleakala upon Maui; then loom the rugged coasts of Molokai; and beyond, the winking light of Makaput Point lighthouse, set high upon the easternmost extremity of Oahu, a signal to all steamers to veer to the south in rounding the coast of Oahu toward Koko Head. Then Diamond Head, resembling a crouching lion, bursts into view and, as it is rounded, the city of Honolulu is revealed, lying between the shore and the mountains, some of the city perched upon the hills. As the morning sun gleams upon the island the traveler discovers a wild and even grotesque landscape. From coral and volcanic crags, as white as cream, into which the sea has drilled great fissures, colored and ridged by volcanic scars, the island slopes up toward the clouds, peaks spearing through the fleece here and there. Between the sharp folds of the hills, green valleys come down and open out upon the ocean where smooth beaches break the surf. Now and then, as the vessel passes Waikiki beach, one may see bronze-hued men standing upon the surf-boards and (larting toward the beach upon great billows. This was the ancient aquatic pastime of the Hawaiians. There are seen cocoanut groves. then modern buildings; three or four coast defense fortifications, their guns screened l)y foliage; then a long coral reef near the harbor entrance, and behind this, the quiet harbor, its modern wharves, its vessels; ald beyond, the great business blocks and public buildings, the flagstaffs and spires of Honolulu. 522 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES But what today impresses visitors, aside from the superb, soft, summery climate of the whole year, is the fact that Honolulu is a modern city in every sense, and that the old, picturesque town, with its royal fringe and exotic life that luxuriated under the monarchy, is gone. In the downtown section are buildings that will compare favorably with the financial districts of almost any great city, for they are banking and office buildings of a high class of architecture and expensive construction. Street railways with "pay-as-you-enter" cars, auto traffic that has become an acute problem, modern newspapers, industrial plants, and wharves with solid concrete substructures, make Honolulu a city that bears all the earmarks of prosperity and progressive Americanism. As the vessel approaches the wharf, the traveler sees first a swarm of brown-skinned native boys diving for coins flipped by passengers from the decks, each boy an embryo Duke Kahanamoku; then throngs of people, and, floating softly on the breeze across the intervening space come the soft, sweet strains of "Aloha Oe" -Hawaii's welcome to the stranger. CHAPTER XXXV DEATH OF QUEEN LILIUOKALANI PASSING OF PICTURESQUE MONARCHY ATE and Destiny, hand in hand, waited through tile centuries of barbaric rule when kings and queens and great chiefs passed in succession, and then through the ten decades of civilization-from the time that the great Kamehameha became monarch of all Hawaii to that fateful lay of January 17, 1893-when the throne toppled, the monarchy was abrogated and a provisional government, later proclaime(l republic, was set up. Fate and destiny participated in this dissolution of the wonderful fabric of government so patiently anl apparently so strongly woven. From republic, independent, to territory of the United States, with complete entry into the sisterhood of states and territories, was but another step. Monarchy ceased that January day, 1893, when Queen Iilinokalani, wrongly interpreting her own personal position in the affairs of government, desired to abrogate the Constitution of 1887. Final movements in the national tragedy of the passing of the old Hawaii, the breaking of all the links which bound the picturesque group of islands lying within the lazy latitudes of the Pacific, to its bizarre past with its wealth of traditions, its strange supremacy in that vast ocean discovered by Balloa, and lines of stalwart kings and queens, sovereigns supreme over a progressive empire which had its origin in the dim and misty age of myth, are leaving few sands in the hour-glass of destiny, for a queen is (lying. and with her the pomp alnd circumstance of sceptered rule, the sinking into oblivion of another aboriginal race whose fate it was to be whelmed in the progress of the white man's civilization. 524 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES Liliuokalani is dying — So I wrote the night of November 10, 1917, a few hours before her majesty passed to the beyond on November 11. I added: The Queen is dead, long — No, the sentence is finished; the nation's life has run its span of the centuries; the queen's race is ended; there will be no other queen, no other king, no throne of their forefathers to remain as a monument of form of an ancient civilization, a supreme race amid the Seven Seas; for Liliuokalani, queen of the Hawaiian Islands, shorn these twenty-four years of her crown and scepter, lies in the final throes of a life which has reached its three score and ten, and ten more years than the allotted term of life; lies vacant-eyed, yet conscious of the passing throng of subljects who gave her in the glory of other days the homage of a devoted people. She lies almost within the shadow of the architectural pile raised to symbolize the power and might eo her rule of the golden days when Hawaii was a nation, indepen(lent among independent nations; the equal of vast powers, as potentates are equal, yet menaced by insidious diplomatic thrusts, as nation after nation, tempted by the glitter of territorial aggrandizemient, played it as a pawn upon the chess-board of Earth; engulfed by master moves, removed from the crisscrossed area by loss of its independence and cast into oblivionits race done, its monarchial need passed-and lost ami(l the menace of war's ghastly debacle, save, perhaps, for a few lines upon H istory's pages. Born to the purple, reared among the glories of the Kamehanelha (lynasty and amid the circumstance so exalted in the Old World courts of royalty, herself sister of a reigning king, anrl finally wielder of the scepter upon a throne set amid the cocoanut grove whose plumned heights nodded over coral shores, Liliuokalani early learned the truth of the adage, "Uneasy lies the head that wears the crown;" for two brief years upon the exalted heights of an ancient throne brought her only 'the cup of despair, the wresting of scepter and crown from her keeping, queon l"i inwk llai1.i l~t of tfle soveml- l le of IfTlavaiir wlo steenacidtl tb: thrmle ir 1S91,,Fl}~l: tlhe dealth of~ her brot:her. Kig 'Kalakaaa, and w':a ileposed oil Jamlltarv I7, Ilg3. She live'l in ft)looXlilU uIntil hetr doeath, Wv hiei wee.irrer d 0'/ Novem.els.er 11. 1917. 526 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES and the narrow confines of chambers for a prison that once were hers as reigning monarch. Strange it is that il this old mansion of Colonial days' splenlor, the home of her earlier uncrowned life, so near that great palace, its tenant should be struggling for life itself, symbolizing even the struggle for existence of her race against the white man's all-enveloping mastery of the earth. Fair Hawaii rose to its zenith in the reign of Kalakaua, her royal brother, the "Merry Monarch," and her own glorious days when the touch of a newer civilization had tempered the won(lerful civilization of the ancient Hawaiians; when the lanes of commerce focused in Hawaii; when its sunny fields became golden in tasseled sugar cane, and it became the veritable crossroads of the Pacific, its future to be unveiled as "America's (;ibraltar of the Pacific," a khaki-clad outpost for the great American Republic, and the melting pot of the Nations. She reigned as undisputed sovereign but a brief span; but the seeds of diplomatic tares had been sown, international sappers mined its political parapets, and bloodless revolution cast down her throne and upraised the banner of Republic's sovereignty, and she became prisoner within her achitectural pile. Guards patrolled her door, armed, barring her exit, where once smart sentries had saluted and obeyed her slightest com1malld. She gazed from windows lupon the free world outside, a silent, suffering monarch, whose people endeavored to mass at arms by counter revolution and restore the throne to its glory. Foiled and( thrown into prison, tried and banished, her subjects were scattered and the enterprise to reestablish empire failed utterly and the proud queen faced accusers before military courts, which convicted her of treason. None of the rigors of close confinement were suffered, for she relinquished her sovereign rights and became free but throneless-though not homeless, for the beatutiful mansion of her husband, the prince consort, became her palace. It was strangely named, this noble pile, so reminiscent of the old South, in honor of the great American who sacrificed everything for a free nation, " \Vashington Place," today the DEATIH' OF QUEEN LII IU( )KAELAN 527 center of all that is left of the royal days, tonight the home of Death. For the queen is dyingFor seventy years the mansion has sheltered high chiefs and rulers, a mansion gay with life and pomp and circumstance; where beautiful, polished woods, art pieces from the four corners of the earth, and semibarbaric kahilis (standards surmounted by cylindrical creations of rare feathers), symbols of kingship, symbolic of tabu supremacy, still create the appearance of a palace drawing room, for it was in these rooms that Ier Majesty granted audiences, and received obeisances from her loyal subjects, and yet all truly loyal to the great American Republic. But the passing show is nearing its end, and soon the pomI) and panoply of regal days will have turned to the pageantry of semibarbaric (lays as the dynasty ends, the last of dynasties in fair Hawaii; the closing chapter of the strange, almost unexampled system of rule of wonderful kings of tle past. For Liliuokalani is dying. CHAPTER XXXVI HAWAII'S TWO SWEETEST MELODIES "ALOHA OE"-"ALOHA TO HAWAII" O MELODY in all the world has such a sympathetic, heart-throbbing, yearning, plaintive appeal as that which reaches the ear of the traveler in Hawaii, from the guitar and the ukulele; and the rich, sonorous ear-haunting notes sung by the native Hawaiians fill the soul. Chief among all these languorous, sweet songs are "Aloha Oe," composed by the late Queen Liliuokalani, and "A Song to Hawaii," or "Aloha to Hawaii," as it is sometimes called, composed by Joseph D. Redding, a former president of the Bohemian Club of San Francisco, who has never yet set foot upon the shores of Hawaii. Whether "Aloha Oe" is played and sung as a steamer from abroad approaches the Honolulu dock, as a welcome to homeward-boundl islanders or strangers about to taste the joys of the "Rainbow Isles," or whether it is played as a steamer is leaving, when all aboard are bedecked with floral wreaths, or leis as the Hawaiians call them, as a sympathetic "au revoir," or whether at the funeral of a royal personage when it is sung in a sobbingly plaintive way, or whether it is heard in distant lands by islanders far away from home, when it causes tears to well into one's eyes, the queen's composition commands unusual attention. Its notes cause hearts to throb, minds to reflect, speech to cease until it is finished. And it is true of "Joe" Redding's beautiful song dedicated to Hawaii, for both are melodies that will never (lie among the Hawaiians, songs that will ever live as memories of the lays when Hawaii was a monarchy and had its little opera bouffe royal court, a miniature St. James in a colorful mid-sea setting, for they are reminiscent of the days of queens and kings, of prin HAWAII'S TW( SWEETEST MELODIES 529 cesses and princes, of balls and receptions and levees at the royal palace in Honolulu and aboard visiting warships, and of wonderful moonlit nights in cocoanut groves or near the wave-caressed beach at Waikiki when ukuleles and guitars are softly musical. Just how these two famous songs came to be written has never before been fully told, and their origin is exceptionally interesting, for each came upon the spur of the moment and were dedicated to royal incidents. King Kalakaua was elected to the throne of Hawaii in 1874. His sisters were made princesses of the realm, and Liliuokalani was designated by Kalakaua as the heir apparent to the throne after the death of her brother, Prince Leleiohoku, who was a poet and a musician. Seven or eight years later (about 1881 or 1882) Princess Liliuokalani (she became queen in 1891) went by horseback one day across the island of Oahu from Honolulu to Maunawili ranch, passing through the famous Nuuanu Pali, from which one gains the most superb view of the windward side of the island lying thousands of feet below and beyond. The ranch was owned by Edwin Boyd, who was 'the king's chanlberlain. In the party of Liliuokalani were Princess Likelike, ler sister, Col. James Boyd, Mr. and Mrs. Poor, and Mr. and Mrs. Charles B. Wilson, Mr. Wilson later becoming marshal of the kingdom under Queen Liliuokalani, and when the queen was 1imprisoned after the abortive attempt in 1895 to restore her to ihe throne, Mrs. Wilson shared her imprisonment as lady-inwaiting. They spent a delightful day at Maunawili, and they started homeward. Colonel Boyd, at the last moment, was called back to the ranch to receive a lei from one of the pretty Hawaiian girls standing at the ranch gate, whereupon Princess Likelike, being impatient, called to Mr. Wilson to accompany her and started away at a fast gallop. They were followed at some distance by Liliuokalani, Mrs. W\ilson and Colonel "Jimmie" Boyd, and their retinue. The group finally merged and then, as Mr. \,Vilson now tells the story, Liliuokalani hummned a melody which was Hawaiian in its composition. In a way it had a familiar 530 r' -',')oO UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES note now and then to him. The princess kept humming and hummling, and finally after they had passed through the Nuuanu Pali and stopped at al orange grove at Kahuilanawai, where there was a spring and all had dismounted, Mr. Wilson expressed curiosity about the song. She said it was just something that was running through her head, and continued to hum it. Then \ilson recognized a trace of an old song, "The Lone Rock by the Sea," which is the lasis of "Aloha Oe." WVhen the party reached Washington Place, which was the private home of Princess Liliuokalani, and at present the official lansion of the governors of Hawaii, a guitar was strummed, and, as Liliuokalani hummed, an accompaniment was improvised and soon all the party was singing what Liliuokalani said was tle chorus. It was pretty and absorbing, with all the languorous atmosl)phere of Hawaiian melodies. Tle following day the princess had set down her "hummning" upon lpaper and soon there appeared the music and words of what was later titled "Aloha Oe." The princess gave Mr. Wilson the words in Hawaiian and aske(l him to translate them into English, she to do likewise anud then compare notes. Tlhex found they were very much alike, but passed both translations over to Rollin Dag-get, the United States minister to Hawaii for his opinion. HIe looked at tlhem and asked Lilitokalani if she believed she hadl interp)rete(l all the sentiment in her own words. She replied in the affirmative, whereupon Mr. Dagget said that if that was the case, then her words should stand. This was satisfactory to all, and thereupon "Aloha Oe" was adopted and is now the foremost musical composition of Hawaii. Captain Henri Berger, thenl bandmaster of the famous Royal Hawaiian Band, who held that position for forty-four years, went over the music an(d Ina(le the finished copy. Mr. Wilson later sent the music and words to Martin Gray, of San Francisco, wlo published the composition. HAWAII'S TWO() SWEETEST MELODIES 531 But underlying all the composition, the words "One fond embrace, until we meet again," always sung so plaintively, had a real meaning, for they referred to the incident at the gate at Maunawili, when Colonel Boyd gallantly had returned to kiss the pretty maid who had given him a lei. "One fond embrace" that was given-aye, and more-and "until we meet again," was evident in the reluctance of the dashing' colonel to leave. It is said that the incident at the gate peeved Princess ILikelike, for she galloped away in anger. Tlat incident Liliuokalani preserved to posterity with her composition, strung together piece by piece, line by line, bar by bar, on that memorable horseback ride back over the Pali from Maunawili to Washington Place. When you hear "Aloha Oe" let your thoughts wander to the scene of Maunawili ranch gate. Fritz Kreisler, the Austrian violinist, while visiting in Honolulu in 1925, said that "Aloha Oe" was founded upon an Austrian folk-song. However, "A Lone Rock by the Sea," is an old American composition, found in music volumes of the 'sixties and 'seventies. But how came Joseph Redding, who never visited Hawaii, to compose a Hawaiian air that so truly reflected all the charming atmosphere of Hawaii? It was largely by association with a number of California's men and women who had visited Honolulu, who had known King Kalakaua and all his court and had been entertainedl by the royal family and others, including "Ned" and Jimmie Dowsett, Col. Sam Parker, Col. "Billy" Cornwell, George Macfarlane, the Spreckels "boys," Bonnie Monsarrat, "Jack" Low, "Cabbie" Brown and many others in Honolulu, and had been so intimate in all its social affairs, that when they had returned to California, they told of their Hawaiian experiences so vividly and painted them in such glowing colors that Redding was able to understand Hawaii to the core. When ground-breaking exercises were held at the PanamaPacific Exposition grounds in 1914 for the Hawaii building, the author of this volume was master of ceremonies on that historical (lay. An atmosphere of Hawaii seemed to have permeat 532 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES ed the spot and all the assemblage in which were numbers of members of the Bohemian Club and their friends. There were many beautiful Hawaiian women present, all wearing fragrant leis, and Hawaiian musicians sang melodies of the Isles. As the Bohemian club members entered the enclosure, came the plaintive, softly alluring strains of "A Song to Hawaii," and when it was finished, when the thoughts of nearly all present were 2,000 miles away in the sunny, semitropical isles of Hawaii, there was hardly a dry eye. And why? With such plaintive music is it any wonder that eyes should be wet when the words were these: "The wind from over the sea, Sings sweetly aloha to me; The waves as they fall upon the sand, Say Aloha, and bid me to land. The myriad flowers in bloom, Waft aloha in ev'ry perfume; I read in each love-lit eye, A-lo-ha, A-lo-ha nui oe." Flor years I wondered how such a song came to be composed, an(l wrote Mr. Redding, who is not only a past president of San Francisco's most famous club, but is a well-known attorney there, asking for the story. Here is his answer: "You ask mne with reference to a song I wrote many years ago entitled 'Alola,' or, as it is sometimes called, 'A Song to Hawaii.' "In the first place, I am sorry to say I have never been to the Islands, althouigh I am on intimate terms with many of the charming people from that lovely part of the world. All of my friends have been there, and I have always felt that I knew the atmosphere pretty well. "The song you mentioned was written at Judge Crocker's home in Sacramento, California, many years ago, just before the arrival of King Kalakaua from Honolulu in San Francisco on the occasion of his last visit, prior to his demise (1890). I HAWAII'S TWO SWEETEST MEL()DIES 533 was visiting Mrs. Harry Gillig, the daughter of Judge Crocker, at her home in Sacramento. The forthcoming visit of the king was brought up in conversation at breakfast. Either she or Harry Gillig said to me: 'Joe, why do you not write a song for the Islands? Frank Unger will illuminate it and we can present it to the king when he reaches San Francisco.' "I went into the library after breakfast, shut the door, and wrote the music and the words in the course of the morning. It was a rough sketch, but Frank Unger took it and made a beautiful illuminated copy on parchment. It was presented to the king. As I recall it, the king had in his suite a number of Hawaiian singers. I afterwards heard that they learned the music very quickly and commenced to sing it even before they returned to the Islands with the body of the king, who died in San Francisco. This song, was never published with my consent, and I never saw the manuscript after turning it over to Mr. Unger. It seems to have crept into the musical press, however, for I have seen one or two bastard editions of it-badly harmonized and in somewhat mongrel form." Mrs. HIarry Gillig, whom he mentions, was the former Miss Aimee Crocker, who first married Porter Ash, and then later Harry Gillig. The Gilligs came to Honolulu and enjoyed the hospitality of the king and queen and the royal court and Honolulu's society. Gillig possessed a beautiful singing voice and he often sang "Joe" Redding's song. Frank Unger was anQther member of the Bohemian Club, with an artistic sense, wlho often came to Honolulu and always was a favorite with the royal set. Then there was Clay Greene, a Bohemian Club man, an author of poeims, who also sang Hawaii's melodies. There was Gus Spreckels, son of Claus Spreckels the sugar baron, who was the most jovial of the Spreckels "boys." These formed a galaxy of "good fellows" who used to visit Hawaii during the reign of Kalakaua and lived in the "Snow Cottage" near the palace. They were originally attracted here by Paul Neumann, the brilliant bon vivant, lawyer, attorneygeneral under Kalakaua and Liliuokalani, an early member of 534 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES the Bohemian Club, whose home was always the rendezvous for men of literary an(l musical attainments, for club men and for the navy, for his household was composed of a number of beautiful and b)rilliant daughters. And out of all this gay setting came the flow of melody and words that morning in the Crocker library in Sacramento when Redding composed this beautiful "Solng to Hawaii." The galaxy of Californians, having entree to the palace and to the king, were doubly fortunate in having the homes of the old families thrown open to them. Not alone are these two songs among the most beautiful, for there is another of strange appeal to the senses. This is "Old Plantation," the words by Mrs. Mary Jane Fayerweather Montano, granddllaughter of Capt. George Beckley; the music by David Nape, one of the best of a former coterie of composers of Hawaiian airs. While another softly alluring song by Mrs. Montano, was "Beautiful Kahana," dedicated to Mary E. Foster, of IHawaii, whose name was lettered on the stern of a lumber schooner, plying between Puget Sound and Honolulu, for a quarter of a century. CHAPTER XXXVII HAWAII'S FLAG DOMINATED THE OCEAN MEMORIES OF WASHINGTON PLACE ( OR nearly a century a flag of eight stripes, alternately | white, red and b)lue, each representing an island of the * Hawaiian group, with the English Jack ill the upper left corner, forming one of the most beautiful and colorful flags that ever floated in any breeze, waved over the Hawaiian Islands, monarchy and repul)lic alike, until the (lay in Alugust, 1898, when Hawaii becale merged with the United States, when Old Glory replaced it over the old royal palace in Honolultl. Yet the reverence of the Islanders for their old flag is so sentimental that the legislature adopted it as the territorial standard. Captain George Beckley, an English sea captait who came to these Isla-nds about 1804, was undoubtedly the originator of the flag of Hawaii. I-e brought to the island a vessel which was purclased by the chiefs and was called "H-umehume" by the natives. He afterwards made numerous voyages between Hawaii and Mexico and also between Hawaii and China. According to the family traditions he made the first Hawaiian flag about 1807 or 1808. The logbook of the captain, in which was recorded the fact that he had made the flag, was unfortlunately lost ly his descendlants several decades ago. It is certain, accor(ling to family records, that he made this first flag into a child's frock which was worn by each one of his children in succession, and was long preserved as an heirloom of the family. The Hawaiian flag received its English Jack-a St. George an(l St. Andrew's cross filled in with blue-very probably because the designer was an Englishman, and probably because Kamehameha the Great had leaned toward the British government through his many dealings with English navigators, be 536 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES ginning particularly with Captain George Vancouver to whom he made what was at one time thought to be a cession of Hawaii to England. This may have influenced the use of the English Jack, in the belief that with England extending a protecting wing over Hawaii, England should be represented in the flag, the Hawaiian element being the eight stripes to represent that number of islands in the group. On the occasion of the birth of the Princess Nahienaena at Keauhou, Kona, Hawaii, in 1815, Captain Beckley was made a High Chief by Kamehameha, so that he might with impunity enter the sacred precincts of the grass house and present the royal infant with a roll of China silk, after which he went outside and fired a salute of thirteen guns in her honor. When Captain Beckley entered the house he took the infant in his arms and the little one immediately clutched his whiskers with her tiny fingers. When Queen Keopuolani saw this she said to the king, "Look at the big sweetheart and the little sweetheart. George, henceforth you are Princess Nahienaena's name husband." He was called keiki (son) ever afterwards by the chiefs, and his daughter Maria was called "Kaiponui Kaipoliilii" after this incident, at her birth, it being a custom for Hawaiians, very frequently, to name children after an incident, historical event, the names often having a beautiful and poetically figurative meaning. In this way much of the old history was conveyed from generation to generation. Captain Beckley was the first commander of the Honolulu fort which was erected near the waterfront near the foot of what is now Fort street. It was built on the advice of the High Chief Kalaimoku, a general under Kamehameha, and a historic personage, later being the representative to meet the first missionaries on behalf of Kamehnmeha II, in 1820. The fort was to comnand the harbor and its channel. It was begun in 1815 and completed in a year. It was nearly square, measuring three hundred yards on a side; the walls were about twelve feet high and twenty feet thick, built of coral blocks hewn from the reefs H4AWAII'S b';D( \1IINAT LI) ()CLAN 53 5 3 / anid pierced with embrastires for cannon. It stood on the seaward sidle of Queen street anid across the lower part of Fort street. About forty guns were mounted, consisting of six-, eightand twelve-lpounders. It vas placed under the (irect comman(1 of Captain Beckley, whose soldhery vere malo-cladl natives of the varrior class who had leen traineed by Kamehameha, the G;reat. To supplement this fort eight thirty-two poutnders were afterwards mounted on Puunchhowl hill behind the citv. Captain Beckley's ollest son, William Beckley, was horn at IKeauhou, andl was brought up) with Kauik-eaouli, afterwards Kamehameha III. His two ollest (laughters were brouglit up by Queen Kaahumantu. This indlicates the high esteem in which the Eniglishman was held by Kamehamehia, audl also the probability that he would confide to this officer the task of (lesigning a flag for Hawaii. Captain Beckley (liel ini Honolulu in 1825. The national hanner, adopted officially by the legislative council, was unfurled on May 25, 1845, (hiffering very little front the former one. Captain- iJo()hn Dominiiis, of Boston, arrived in Honolulu April 23, 1837, after having made several voyages to I-Ionolulu fromt New England and New York, accompanied by his soil John Owenl Dominis, and dlecided to make his permanent home in the Islands. In 1842, a lawsuit of long stanlding between Captain Dominis andl the British consul, Richard Charlton-destined to become an ill-favored figure in Haawaiian life-was terminated, under which Captain Dominis came into lossession of land on Beretania street, near the royal palace grounds, anl begain in that vear the erection of a mansion, which was comipleted in 1846, and today stands as a montument to the oldl-style architecture, stately and beautiful, and (estined to be the home of the last sovereign of Hawaii and fromt which she was carried to her forefathers in the Royal Maausoleutm in Nuuiantu Valley. Isaac Adlams, not an architect, but a builder, drew the plans of the mansion and superintended its construction. Captain Domin is,csailed for China on Atugyust 5", 1846, but neither he nor his ship was ever heard from. He intended to bring home Chinese 20 538 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES furniture for his mansion. The widow rented the home to Anthony TenEyck, United States commissioner. On February 22, 1848, being a good and patriotic American, he wrote the royal government, that with the consent of Mrs. Dominis he had named the mansion "Washington Place," in honor of the illustrious George Washington, and added, "Let it be hereafter so designated in Hawaiian annals, and long may it remain, in this distant isle of the Pacific, a memento of the eminent virtues of the 'Father of His Country,' and of the distinguished excellences of its much lamented projector." This was addressed to His Excellency R. C. Wyllie, Minister of Foreign Affairs. On the same date the minister replied, and wrote: "Your wish having been made known to the king, it has pleased His Majesty to order accordingly, and I venture to say that everyone near His Majesty (Kamehameha III) cordially concurs in his desire to do every possible honor to the memory of one of the greatest and best of men that ever ennobled the race of mankind." Keoni Ana was then premier of the kingdom, and on that same historic day issued a "By Authority," or official notice, that it had pleased His Majesty to approve of the name of "Washington Place" for the Dominis mansion, "and to command that they retain that name in all time coming." On September, 1862, Lydia K. P. Kapaakea, a high chiefess, sister of the High Chief David Kalakaua, and John Owen Dominis were married and took up their residence at Washington Place with Mother Dominis. The latter (lied on April 25, 1889, and the property descended to her son, then Governor of Oahu, his wife having become Princess Liliuokalani when her brother, Kalakaua, was proclaimed king. Governor Dominis, who became Prince Consort when Liliuokalani ascended the throne, died August 27, 1891, and the queen came into full possession of the mansion. When the queen was deposed in January, 1893, she retired to Washington Place and there dwelt the remainder of her onetime stormy life, dying on November 11, 1917. There, in her HAWVAAII'S FLAG( DI)OMINATEI), ()(EAN C E 53'1) retirement, she continued to receive her friends and visitors, and the Hawaiian people particularly, in semiroyal state. Her home was the rendezvous for the old "royal set" of Honolulu. It was a little kingdom and she was accorded all the honors and obeisances that are the privilege of a monarch to receive. The queen, educated, a composer of music, a writer, drew about her a numerous coterie of friends. Washington Place became the mecca of travelers visiting in Honolulu. To her came generals, admirals and dignitaries of the United States, according her the honors that she had received in the former day when she occupied the throne. I saw the queen the morning she breathed her last in the little front room, off the hallway and the lanai, which had been her bedroom for years, and where she was devotedly attended by many of her people. For a week Washington Place had been filled with Hawaiians who gathered because they knew the end was near. Day and night they came. There was wailing, there was soft singing. The former court ladies, the former officials, now grown old, even as she was approaching eighty, came to be with their sovereign in her last hours. From Washington Place, where royal burial honors had been accorded, she was removed to the royal palace by order of the Governor of Hawaii who officially announced that hers would be a royal funeral. Then the legislature was besought to purchase WMashington Place as a mansion for the governors of Hawaii. This was accomplished, making Washington Place secure from the demands of business or otherwise; and, having been renovated, it is now the gubernatorial residence. The first to occupy it as such was Charles J. McCarthy, and after him, Wallace R. Farrington. It was the earnest wish of Prince Jonah Kuhio Kalanianaole, her cousin, that Washington Place be purchased for this purpose to preserve it to posterity. The act of the Hawaiian legislature was approved April 30, 1919. Over Washington Place floated the Hawaiian flag for threequarters of a century, and over it the royal standard, the crown II Woxnds of the overthrow of the Hawaiian monachy in 1 893 were healed twenty years later when Sanford B. Dole and former Queen Liliuokalani wiere photographed together at Washington Place, the qeen's home1 Mr. Dole beaoe President of the new government the day the qeeen Was deposed. ehind e is apt. Ie Beer, handaster of tlhe famon s toa;l Hawaiian Military Bad for fortyfour years HAVWAII'S FLAG D(\OMINATED O()CAN 541 flag, was often silhouetted against the sky. I saw the royal standard raised that sad morning in November, 1917, to the peal and then lowered to half-mast, having performed this ceremony myself. Only recently I had the honor to assist in the transfer of the royal standard and crown flags of the Hawaiian monarchy, which were hauled down from the Royal Palace in January, 1893, when the monarchy was overthrown, to the Bishop Museum as a safe place for these historic relics. They had been in possession of a resident of Honolulu, who was a lieutenant of the guard established by the Hawaiian provisional government. The Hawaiian flag of monarchical days and of Washington Place were intimately associated, and both have an unusually warm place in the hearts of all residents of Hawaii. CHAPTER XXXVIII HAWAIIAN C(AT-OF-ARMS AND OLD HAWAIIAN FLAG HEl Hawaiian coat-of-arms, that used by the monarchy, has been preserved by the Territory of Hawaii, with needful changes, and forms a part of the territorial seal today. The coat-of-arms was originated during the reign of Kamehameha III, who died in 1854, and was designed by his secretary, the distinguished High Chief Haalilio, who died at sea ill 1844. It was afterwards altered, during the reign of King Kalakaua, who ascended the throne in 1874, and died in San Francisco in January, 1891. In the original design appears a triangular flag, the ancient banner of the chiefs, always raised above the sail of a canoe. One conspicuous ornament of the crown was the taro leaf. The cross depending near the bottom of the latter design is one of Kalakaua's additions. The shield in the center is guarded by two men whose names are Kameeiamoku and Kamanawa, both high chiefs under the ancient regime. These men were twin brothers, mighty warriors and generals, and distinguished counsellors of Kamehanmeha the Great, who died at Kailua, Hawaii, in 1819. Kameeiamoku stands at the right and holds a kahili, or feathered staff, the emblem of state without which no royal court was complete. The large kahilis used for state occasions in olden or ancient times were from ten to thirty feet in height. They were made of choice feathers and carried by several men. Their latest use as symbols of royalty was during the state obsequies, in Honolulu, on the occasion of the funeral of the late Prince Jonah Kuhio Kalanianaole. The feathers were sometimes arranged on slender branches attached to the staff, and extended about ten inches on either side. They were long and silky, and were obtained from many HAWAIIAN COAT-OF-ARMS 5 4 3 sources, the black from the tail of the o-o bird. There were also smaller kahilis, used against flies or other winged insects. They were generally made of gay-colored feathers. In the coat-of-arms, Kamanawa stands at the left holding a spear in his right hand, a sign of protection. The spears, or ihe pololu, were made of the wood of the kauila tree, the hardest native wood in the Islands. Though dark reddish at first, it becomes nearly black with age. This wood was once considered sacred and many superstitions are associated with it. These two men, Kameeiamoku and Kamanawa, are garbed in ceremonial garments, the long feather cloak and helmet. Such feather cloaks are rare and costly, and truly magnificent, if barbaric. They were made from the rich yellow feathers of three varieties of birds-the o-o, mamo and o-u. The cloaks represented in the coat-of-arms extend to the ankles, but for a young prince they reached only to the waist, and often were slightly shorter. The foundation of the cloak is a fine netting of native hemp, or olona, to which the feathers, overlapping each other, are skilfully fastened, thus forming a perfectly smooth surface of a golden hue. Sometimes a border of red is added. Most of the birds which produced the feathers were honeysuckers, and were caught by nets or sticky gum spread upon the branches of the lehua and other flowering trees where the birds sought food. The O-o had a small tuft of vellow feathers under each wing and upon the breast. The yellow feathers of the o-u are upon the head of the male. The mamo, considered extinct, gave the choicest feathers, of a deep yellow or orange color. Thousands of these birds were required to furnish feathers to complete a cloak, and when avoidable, the birds were not destroyed but were released after the feathers were removed. Sometimes a few of these birds were killed and cooked in ti leaves, providing a much relished dish for the king. 544 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES Yellow was the royal color, the chiefs and lesser dignitaries using red or other colors. The apapane and curved-bill iiwi furnished the red feathers. The finest of the ancient feather cloaks is now enshrined in the Bishop Museum. It is the original robe used by Kamehameha the Great. It was afterwards used by the kings on occasions of state, such as the opening of the legislature. It is enclosed with others il a steel case which is opened twice a month to visitors. There is also on exhibition the cloak of Katnlualii, the last independent king of Kauai. The helmets were made of wickerwork covered with brilliant-hued feathers. They formed a gorgeous head-dress. In the coat-of-arms shield are two tabu sticks called loulou, originals being made of kauila wood. Those used by the chiefs were about four feet long, with a large round knob at the top, often covered with white tapa (fiber) cloth. In olden days, if the king did not wish to be disturbed a tabu stick was placed before his house, the penalty for disregarding it being death. In case a king heard of the disloyalty of a subject he ordered a tabu stick placed in the night before the man's house, a very strict command to remain indoors until further orders. The tabu stick was greatly feared by the natives. At the top of the shield is a crown, having eight leaves, or points, which indicate the number of inhabited islands. The St. George's Cross in the coat-of-arms was introduced by King Kalakaua, as perhaps, also, were the drawings in the little design in the center of the shield between the two flags. Two torches of kukui nuts are crossed, with the kahili fan at the junctionl. Two torches of iwikauikaua were the symbols of Kalakaua's family. The ancient torches were made of kukui nuts (candlenuts) strung on a slender stick and enclosed in a basket of ti leaves. They were carried in royal processions, preceding the king. "Ua mau ke ea o ka aina i ka pono," are the Hawaiian words of tle national motto entered upon the scroll below the shield, meanilng, "The life of the land is perpetuated in righteousness." IHAW\ IIAXN (:)AT-( )F-\ARI\S 545 They formed part of a speech delivered by Kamehameha III in 1843, when the British proposed to seize the Islands. Inl 1894, a new seal with a newly dlesigned coat-of-arms was preparel for the Republic of Tlawaii and adopted by the legislature. It containe(d the same motto, the bars of tlhe tHawaiian flag and tile tablu sticks, but in other respects is entirely different. The two standing figtures were the Goddess of Liberty at the right, and a representation of Kamehameha the Great at the left. The coat-of-arms of the Territory is still (lifferent, but the symlllolic meanings are preserved. The colored bars, re(l, white an(l blue in the shield, represent the old Hawaiian flag'; the eight stripes represent the nunfmber of the principal islands of the archipelago. CHAPTER XXXIX SURF-RIDING -HAS BACKGROUND OF PAGAN RITES LD Father Neptune is one of Hawaii's closest neighbors, one of its best-liked, and, in a sense, one of the most helpful, for it is Neptune who has given the Hawaiians that rarest of aquatic sports —surf-riding upon their long, wide, heavy boards and their wonderful outrigger canoes. The vast ocean with its changing colors, increasing in the alternating hues the nearer one approaches the shore, is always cool and inviting. The ancient Hawaiians created the sport that has made Waikiki beach, and -lawaii generally, a famous playground. No more picturesque scene is observable than that at Waikiki, when bronze-skinned, stalwart youths of magnificent physical proportions tologgan in on the crest of combers, standing, kneeling or lying down upon their boards; and it must be said that visitors to Hlawaii with practice become almost as proficient today in this exhilarating art, for it is an art in aquatic sports. But I won(ler how many (levotees of surf-riding today, even ilcludling the young Hlawaiians, know that behind that art of the sea is a mounitain-ligoh background of pagan prayers and of cerelmonials createdl by the ancient priesthood, participated in even by the kings and the great chiefs? It was a favorite pastime of the ancient Hawaiians. Chiefs alnd co(linllloers would stake all their wealth upon the supIeriority of a favorite contestant in the races. Often the kings and chiefs gathered upon the shore for festivals and staged surfriding races, when there came two rivals, probably the best of that particular island, to llsplay their prowess with the great boards. ()ftentimes, a famous surf-rider from another island was I)resent and then the contest narrowed down to an exhiblition of utmost skill, with the spectators on shore often dividled into factions betting upon their favorites. S U RF-RI D IK 547(_,547 Native legyends alboundl with the exploits of those who attainiel (list-linction among their fellows by their skill aiid (laring in this sport, indnilged in alike by both sexes, and freqnentlv, too, the gyentler sex carried off the highest h~onors. Ihese legendary acconnts a-re nsnally interwoven with romantic incidents, as ini the abdnction of Kallea, sister of Kawaokaohiele, moi (king) of Manii, by emissaries of Lo-Lale, chief of Lihnte, in the Ewa district of Oahti; the exploit of Laieikawai anid Halaaniiani at Keaani, Pnnta, Hawvaii; or for- chieftain supremacy, as instance(1 in the contest between Umi andl Paiea, in a snirf-swini1ming match at Latupahoehoe, Hawaii, which the former won npon a wager of fonr (lonlle canoes; also of Lonoikamakahilki, at Haisa, Manii, andl many others. How early in the history of the race snrf-ridinx became a snpreme science wvith them is not knownl, thongh it is anl acknowice(lged fact that, while other iPolynesiaiis inay (ividle honors with Hawaiian s for aqnatic prowess in other respects, nonle -attaine(l, until recenit yerthe expertness of snrf sport, which early visitors recognizedl as a national characteristic of tlhe natives of this gronip. In recent years, however, through the efforts of the Ontri-ger Clnb, at -lonoltilt, tlhe art of snrf-riding, wvhich lhad niearly, varnished, was revived. Yonncr white men and women took uip the slport andl became lproficie1nt. Hawaiians again took -it nip aild there enisted a keen rivalry, which is still in vogue at WYaikiki beach. Noxw the art of suirfinig has been acquiredl iv travelers, anld, niatnrally, photo-albnms in thonsands of lparts of the world are adorned wvith pictures of the oxvncrs stal](ing ini 'front of their boards u1)lifted on the samlly i)eaclies. It would be interesting to kniow exactly bowy tlhe i-iawaiians, over all others in tle P)acific, developed snrf-ridingc into a scieni-tific sport. That it became niationial in character can be understood wheni we learn that it was identified, to somie extenit at 'least, wN ith the ceremonies and superstitions of kahunmaism (witch~ery, witch-(loctoring). esjpeciallv in lprelparation there fore, while the indulgYence of the slport lpanderedl to their gambling pro-peiisities. 548 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES Old Hawaiians who have told the story of surfing, as handed down in chants from mouth to mouth, say that much valuable time was spent in ancient times in practicing the sport. Necessary work for the maintenance of the family, such as farming, fishing, mat and tapa making, and such other household duties required of them and needing attention, by either head of the family, was often neglected for the prosecution of the sport. Betting was made an accompaniment thereof, both by the chiefs and the common people, as was done in all other games, such as wrestling, foot-racing, quoits, checkers (konane), holua and several others known only to the ancient Hawaiians. Canoes, nets, fishing lines, tapas, swine, poultry and all other property were staked-and in some instances life itself was put up as a wager -tle prope-ty changing hands, and personal liberty, and life itself, sacrificed according to the outcome of the match. There were only three kinds of trees known to be used for nlakilg boards for surf-riding, namely, the wiliwili, ulu, or breadfruit, and koa, of the acacia family. The uninitiated were naturally careless and indifferent as to the method of cutting the chosel tree, but among those who desired success upon their labors, rites were carefully observed. Upon the selection of a suitable tree, a red fish called kumu was first procured, which was placed at its trunk. The tree was then cut down, after which a hole was dug at its root and the fish place(l therein, with a prayer, as an offering in payment tIerefor. After this ceremony was performed the tree trunk was chipped away from each side until reduced to a board approxillately of the dimensions desired, when it was pulled down to the beach and placed in the halau (canoe-house) or other suitable place convenient for its finishing work. Coral of the corrugate variety termed pohaku p-una, which could be gathered in abundance at the sea beach, and a rough kind of stone called oahi, were the commonly used implements for reducing and smoothing the rough surfaces of the board until all marks of the stone adze were obliterated. As a finishing stain the root of the ti plant (Cordyline terminalis), called ISU RY-R II)I N G 4:)4:) mole ki, or the pounided lhark of the klkui (candlenut) tree, called hili, was the m-ordant isel for a paint made with the root of bnrned kukui nuts. This fnrnished a dnrable, glossy black finish, far Ireferable to that made with ashes of burned cane leaves or aman fern, which had neither body nor gloss. Before using the board there were other rites or ceremonies to he iperformed for its dedication. AS beforel these were (utsregardled by- the cominon people, but amiong those who followed the making of surf-boards as a tradle, they vere religiously observed. IThere are two kinds of boards for surf-riding, one called the d-o and the other a-la-ia, nliown also as omno. Thie ol() was liladle of wviliwili, a very liPht, buoyant wood, some three fathlonms long, two to three feet wide, andl from six to eihlit inchies thick; alongr the middle of the hoard, lengthwise. btit round-ingo- toward the ed-es on both uipper andl lower sidles. it is well k1-nowirn that the olo was for the nse of the chiefs only, the commo1Thln people using the a-la-ia, Which was madle of koa, or ulu. Its lenath anl widlth was similar to the olo, but in thicknless it was but one andl a htalf to two inches along the center., The line of breakers is the place where the onter surf rises and break~s at (leep sea. This is called the kiulana nalu. Ally lplace nearer or closer in where the suirf rises anld brealJs aga1in, as it sometimes (loes, is called the ahua, knowvn also as kip)apa or ptiao. There were only two k~inds of stirf for riding, one called the lkakala, kinown also as lauloa, or long surf, and the olin, sometimes called opun. The formier is a surf that rises, cover1ing the whrlole distance from one end of a beach to the other. These at times form snccessive waves that roll in witli high, threaten ing crests, finally falling over bodily. The first of a series of surf weaves uisually partake of this character, and is never taken by a rider, as wvill be mentioned later. Tlie ohiu is a very small comlber that rises up without breaking, btut of such strength that it sends the board on speedily toward the shore. This is conitleredl the best, being low and smooth, and the riding easy. I"1,50 550 ~UNDER HAWVAIIAN SKIES FIhe lower portion of the breaker is called holita, or founldationl anid the Portion near a crestin xvv strmed the illiuki side while the (listanit or clear sidle, as some express it, is known as the lala. DuXrinig calmn weather when there was no suirf there were two wvays of making or coaxing it practiced by the ancient HawaiiaVii, tile generally adopted method being for a swimiming party to tak-e several strands of a sea convolvuluis vine, and, swingingo it around tile head, lash it (lown unitedly upon the water until the (lesired result was obtained, at tile samie time chianting sonoronislv as follows: "[To ae-110 ae aluna i ka pohutehute, IK~ii apti nui laxve ulaiKa ipn iki waiho aku." Tile swinmier, taking position at the line of breakers, waits for the p~rop~er surf. As before mienitioned, the first one is allowed to pass by. It is n~ever ridldell, for its front is roughi. If tile secoild conmber is seein to be good it is somletilles taken, but usuially tile tilird or fotirtil is tile best, botll froul tile regularity of its breaking and the foam-callued surface of tile sea thlrougll tile travel of its predecessor. Ill ridiing withi tile olo or thick board oil a big surf, the board is poinited lalldwar(I alld tile ridler mloulltin l it, paddl~les witil Ills ilanlds and inmpels witi his feet to grive tile board a forward mlov-emlent, and~ whie it receives tile llolleiltull of tile surf aild 1iegills to rusll onward, thle skilled rider wvill onilde its course straighlt, or olbliquely, apparelltly at will-accordillg to tile splencdid ability of tile surf-rider-to laild himself high and dry on tile beacil or (lismlounit when nearing it, as he may elect. In tile use of tile olo tile rider had to swimi out around tile line of surf to obtain position, or be collveyed t~iitiler lby callo2. To swimi otit through tile surf w~itlh such a buoyant bulk was Ilot poss ible, tihougih it was solletilles dolle witi tile a-la-ia. Various p)ositionls were assumed in riding by tile old-time exjlerts. Tilis skill (lied out anld was only revived by thle Out SURF-RIDING 551 rigger Club. They stood, knelt, sat, and now come in with one performer sitting astride the shoulders of a companion who stands on the board. There are certain surfs running to various islands that are famous for surf-riding. Halehuawehe is the name of the great surf off Waikiki which attracted the chiefs of olden times, and now often referred to as the "queen surf," because it rolled toward the beach home of the late Queen Liliuokalani, now the home of the Princess Kalanianaole. ITuia and Ahlua were surfs at Hilo, Hawaii, the latter off Cocoanut Island. Punahoa, a chiefess, was the noted rider of Hilo during the time of Hiiakaipoli. Kaloakaoma, a deep-sea surf at Keaau, Puna, Hawaii, famed through the feats of Laieikawai and Halaaniani, as also of Kiiakaipoli and Hopoe. Huiha, at Kailua, Kona, H-awaii, was the favorite surf whereon the chiefs were wont to disport themselves. 'Kaula and Kalapu, at Heie, Keauhou, Kona, Hawaii, were surfs enjoyed by Kauikeaouli (Kamehameha IIT) and his sister, the Princess Nahienaena, whenever they visited this, their birthplace. Puhele and Keanini, at Hana, Maui, and Uo, at Lahaina, MauJi, were surfs for the exploits of chiefs of early (lays. Makaiwa, at Kapaa, Kauai, famedl through Moikeha, a noted chief of that island immnortalized in old mneles as follows: "Moikeha is contented with Kauai, W\here the sun rises and sets; lThe bend of the Makaiwaa surfThe waving of the Kalukalu — Live alnd (lie at Kauai." CHAPTER XL UNMATCHED THOUGHTFULNESS AND ALOHA IOSPITALITY and thoughtfulness went hand in hand in ancient clays despite the belief of travelers today that the principal pastime of the Hawaiians of those days was warfare. There were times when war was broken off and the people turned to peace. Hospitality was always a trait of the people, and althoug- h their command of the world's riches is Ierhaps not now as great as in former times, when their monarchy was on the high crest of domination, their trait of hospitality is still one of the pleasant elements that foreign residents and travelers find in their contact with this race. "Aloha" is a Polynlesian word and is used in all the larcer groups of islands in the South Pacific ocean. The word is spelled with different letters in different island groups. In all islands the "a" is pronounced "ah". There is throughout Polynesia an interchange of consonants having very similar sounds. This is the cause of the different methods of spelling "aloha." The Hawaiians use "aloha"; the Samoans say "alofa"; the Tahitians, Paumotans and New Zealanders say "aroha"; the Tongans use the word "loofa"; the Marquesans prefix the letter "k" and have "kaoha"; the Mangaian word is "aroa." In all cases, the words mean "affection," "love," "compassion," with the kindred feelings of "gratitude," "esteem," "regret." Many times it is merely a kindly salutation in greeting or in farewell, and sometimes it may mean a gift, an aloha. The derivation of tle word is unquestionably from the ancient languages, because "a'oha" has been handed down from generation to generation throughout the scattered peoples on the scattered Pacific islands. Iike the word "Ra" of Egypt, the god of light or sun-god which has becomle the "ra" and "la" mean Prilnce Jotlah Kuhlio Kalahlla aole "Citizenrl Prine, of TXavaiWi, ereatfed a Prince of the Crown by King Kalakala. Prinle Kuhio was elected (delegate to the United States Congress in 1902 and served Htawaii at Washin'gton for twenty years ntill his d ieatlh l 1922. 6ie was the last lembetr of Ithe old regime il Hlawaii to have Ote right to be called by a royal title. 554 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES ing "day" throughout the islands, or the word "Hina," the moongoddess from "Sin," the Assyrian moon-god. The best suggestion advanced for the derivation of "aloha" is from the ancient Hebrew word for god-Elohim. This would bring the old idea of "God be with you" as the foundation for the spirit of kindliness which goes everywhere in the use of the word "aloha." The derivation is in harmony with many other linguistic terms derived from the most ancient language sources. For instance, near the volcano of Kilauea, on the island of H-awaii, there are vast areas of ferns, a species of the pulu, which grows breast-high, called the hapu'u. The heart and root yield cones of nutritious substance. Everywhere the land aroundhthe volcano is dotted with steam and heat fissures. A Hawaiian traveling across this land breaks the ferns and places the fern hearts and roots in the fissures; the heat cooks them and he is provi(led with food. Before leaving, he places other fern hearts and roots in the fissures (pukas) so that the next traveler will find nourishment. No Hawaiian could partake of the food and fail to provide for the next one to pass along. His conscience, his hospitality, his thotlghtfulness would not permit him to fail to do this good deed for another, although a perfect stranger. Seldonl elsewhere in the world is such an example of thoughtfulless of one's fellow being. It was the law of Pele, Goddess of Volcanoes. EIven when the Hawaiians took away awa root, they always p)lanted a branch that the groves would not be diminished. The Ilawaiians had this element of thoughtfulness to the nth degree. Can tlis example of thoughtfulness for others be matched in the civilized world? On the island of Kauai, in the Waialeale mountain, is the cave of Keana'aku (cave of Ku), where firewood was always to be found in old ldays. It ws a nest for the uwau birds. The Hawaiians trapped the birds and broiled them with the firewood left in the cave by the last visitor. His meal ended, the Hawaiian wen7t out andl returned with more wood for the next visitor. tUNMATCHED TH( )I(l-HTirL.XEISS 555 If this was not done the Hawaiian believed he would be trapped by terrific rainfalls, for, said the Hawaiians, Ku, the God of \'aialeale mountain, and husband of Hina, goddess of wish, would punish selfish beings. It is little wonder, then, that the word "Aloha" has such a depth of warm feeling, the Hawaiians' expression of love, sympathy, joy and sorrow, a word of many meanings. Aloha is synonymous with Hawaii, and perhaps is the one Polynesian word that has traveled farthest into foreign lands and remained. Visitors to Hawaii are quickly attracted by the frequency of its use b)oth by Hawaiians and haoles. It not only greets their ear in conversation and in the popular music of the band and glee clubs, but they find it worked in various articles of jewelry, souvenirs and mottoes for home adornment. The word has equal value as one of welcome or as a farewell greeting. The word Aloha, however, is not of ancient Hawaiian use, in the sense it is now employed as a term of recognition or salutation, and it is possible that the intercourse between Itawaiians and foreignlers in the past 140 years is responsible for its use, if not for its coinage. There are many who incline to the belief that it is a contraction of the English word "H-ello," the change. to the Hawaiian method of pronunciation being obvious. For instance, the English word mosquito is pronounced )by Hawaiians "makika." John Yotung, the E1nglishman, who remained with Kamehalmeha the Great after arrival here on a merchantman, was called by the Hawaiians, "Olohana," which is believed to be a contraction of the sea phrase, "All I-lands!" an(l, possibly, being frequently used by Young, the H-awaiians' ear got it as "Olohana." The Hawaviians refer to a cat as "lpopoki.' It is sai(l the missionaries, while stroking a cat, said, "poor pussy," over andl over, and the I-awaiians' nearest pronunciation was ")pooki." -The original definition of Aloha, however, is love. Froml this we have those attributes which love dominates, such as gratitude, affection, good-will, kindness, cotmpassion, sympathy, grief, etc. In this sense its general use as a farewell is but the good-will expression at separation, and requires no special elasticity of the 556 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES language to express the similar good-will feeling at meeting. Hawaiians, however, often greet an approaching party with the exclamation, "He mai," an abbreviation of "Hele mai,' meaning "Come here." "A-no-ai" was the ancient term of warm salutation, and "We-li-na" also had recognition and use in a similar sense, the latter, however, being used mostly as a reply to or in recognition of a salutation, inasmuch as it applies to the person of the house when addressed to a stranger. "Aloha" is the more modern and generally used term. It has a soft, sympathetic expressiveness which even a stranger in the Islands can easily understand and appreciate, and according to the length of time dwelt on the middle or accented syllable, so is the depth of feeling conveyed in the greeting. CHAPTER XLI THE SAINT OF MOLOKAI A VOICE FROM THE LEPER TOMB UT of the silence of the land of living death where men and women have patiently waited for Death to claim toll, tragically realizing in the past that the gates to the outer world were closed against egress because the fearful blast of leprosy had seared their limbs, has finally come a voice. like unto that which came out of the wilderness, the voice of Brother Joseph Dutton, the martyr, self-exiled, lay 1rother who, for nearly forty years, has laved the unhealed sores of leprous wards of Hawaii, who has finally unlocked his heart and revealed the reason of his lifelong penance-"sowing wild oats" after he was mustered out of the army at the close of the Civil \Var. In the vigor of his manhood Brother Dutton arrived in Honolulu forty years ago (July, 1886), and asked permission to go to Molokai's leper settlement to nurse the stricken of I-awaii, without official position, without compensation. A Catholic, he was gralted his strange request, for Catholics, priests and nuns, had long devoted themselves to solacing the desolate lives of the exiles on Molokai, then a place "from whose bourn no traveller returns." There, year after year and decade after decade, Brother Dutton labored at the Baldwin Home for Boys, almost in the shadow of the picturesque stone church where Father Danien, the priest, had labored for so many years and where he died a victim of this mysterious malady. Brother Dutton, educated, a veteran staff officer of the Civil \ar, and a member of the Grand Army of the Republic, offered all his subsequent years to aid the sufferers of Molokai. His ,2 Aj I IIE Dlat ~s aI,i <~nexG l| twtsl (7e~rI l.5 w i lE g g..- 1 He O ratW..._U %o E TIE SAINT OF MOLOKAI 559 lips remained sealed concerning his reason for renouncing everyday life and a future among whole men to immure himself forever from the throbbing flow of healthy mankind. In all his years of service at Molokai he has never left that tiny peninsula. For years he has never passed out of the little village of Kalawao, miles distant from the seaport village of Kalaupapa, where the one steamer from Honolulu arrives but once a week with supplies, and now and then with more lepers. For years he has rarely absented himself from the compound of the Baldwin Home except to cross the road to enter the stone church, hallowed by Damien's martyrdom, to offer his devotions. For decades, legislatures and government officials have journeyed from Honolulu across the channel to Molokai's settlement, and asked the lepers to file their colmplaints. express their wants and offer their praises, if any. Always the visitors have called upon Brother Dutton. Always he was smiling, bright and even witty in conversation; always at ease among the healthy men lie met at this comipound every two years. Always they found himl in his dungaree smock, and always they knew that, during the long night before, lie had labored among his wards, dressing their sores and ministering to their ailments. Each year they saw his once black beard turning slightly grey, then greyer, and finally white. They saw the patriarchal bearl become sparse and his cheeks sunken, but they saw the salme burning glow of animation in his eyes despite his eighty years of age. They saw his headquarters walled with books and magazilnes, for lie is an inveterate reader-wihen he finds time-and always books flow ill upon him from the outer world, from his admirers and well wishers in the Seven Seas, from people who are amtazed at his devoult and unflinching -martyrdomi. And always they see his desk littered with mail, stacks upon stacks of envelopes; they see letters, piles of them, the product of his pen, waiting to be mailed to his hundreds of friends abroad. Brother Dutton is old-fashioned. He remembers the outer world as it was away back in the '80s. His implements are 560 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES those of that period. His letters are those of a literateur, the style of the literary geniuses of half a century ago, whose dictum was smooth, eloquent, their thoughts lofty. He is happy in correspondence with old friends and comrades of the Civil War. H-e is contented in correspondence with men of today, and he di;scsses questions of the hour with a power of expression and a keen knowledge of events that astonishes those who know lhe is immured and apart from their world. Brother Dutton wrote, a few years ago, that he was then five hundred letters behind in his correspondence. The author suggested that his friends in Honolulu would be happy to supply him with a typewriting machine to enable him to catch up. It was a suggestion to be regretted, for it was a futile endeavor to bring this Knight of the Round Table, this chivalrous scourge to disease, into a modern world, and give him today's implements. He said he never had used one-hoped never to be known to have touched one. An automobile was almost an abhorrence to him and he hoped never to see one. Diplomatic and even insidious efforts have been employed for nearly forty years to discover the secret that lay behind this determination to immure himself on Molokai. Often the author has led up to the topic, always with a degree of trepidation, only to be met by a master, rapier-like thrust with the Queen's Englisl, which shattered his own blade and rendered him peculiarly defenseless and ashamed before the stern determination written across the martyr's countenance. The secret was as securely locked as that of the Sphinx. And now, like a bolt from the bluest of soft Hawaiian skies, Brother I)utton, replying to a letter from the author, inquiring after his health and concerning some incidents in his life, sends his latest photograIph, taken on his seventy-eighth birthday, April, 1921, on the back of which, in his own delightful chirography, is an epic, for it is the martyr's story of his penance, the secret so long withheld. Here is what he wrote: THE SAINT OF ]IMOLOKAlI 5(61 "Am beginning thirty-sixth year of voluntary penance for some years of 'sowing wild oats' (as politely expressed), chiefly soon after the Civil War. Not conscious of injuring anyone else-no financial entanglements-but, for evil of it all, on 40th birthday offered to God rest of my life in reparation-work-no pay. "So, vou see, my life here has not been simply to help my neighbor, but to help nmy own soul. Joyfully yours, "JOSEPH DUTTON." \Vhatever the incidents that caused Joseph Dutton's soul tinrest, and his vision to become conscious of the sufferings on Molokai-in those (lays when there appeared to be no remedy, no specific that would ease the torments of the afflicted, when the medical world had reached the conclusion that leprosy woull always be leprosy-Brother Dutton offered his life service and gave up the outside world to reside in Molokai to the end of lis lays. It was a martyrdom which has had few parallels. Ira B. Dutton was born in Stowe, Vermont, on April 27, 1843, but brought up in Janesville, Wisconsin. In July, 1886, he becalne Brother Joseph Dutton, lay-brother in the Catholic church, to remain Joseph Dutton to his final hour. As Ira B. Dutton he enlisted in the Union Army in 1861 and s; on became quartermaster-sergeant. He was a meember of Com-,)any B, 13th Wisconsin Regiment, of which his friend D. HT. W\\ood was captain. Wood and Dutton formed a friendship in 1857 which lasted until Wood's death in 1912. )utton became a second lieutenant in February, 1863; first lieutenant in February, 1865; and regilental quartermaster M\arch 24, 1865; and, unknown to him, he was recolmenlded for appointment as captain in the United States volunteers by Majo — Generals George H. Thomas, J. L. Donaldson, L. HI. Rousseau and Rolert S. Granger. Captain Dutton was on the staff of General Granger from June, 1864, to October, 1865. The war over, Dutton left the service after having performed a useful 562 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES service in transferring the Union dead from battlefields to national cemeteries. If Brother Dutton "sowed wild oats," the closest companion of his youth and of later years never knew it, for D. H. Wood, in writing in the National Tribune, Washington, in 1914, of "Comrade Dutton," said that he was, "as a boy, clean, correct of speech and deportment, and evidently a lover of home and of his mother, who was his teacher and companion. He had few companions, but was reserved and dignified even in boyhood." Concerning his correspondence and other matters, he wrote: "About the Leper Settlement I shall say I have always felt it up to me to touch those chords very gently; in personal letters I seldom mention the Settlement. Correspondents on the mainland are bright and interesting, mostly very affectionate, longtime friends, with many edifying mutual questions on tap, so the Leper Settlement is usually not reached at all. It's myself, however, to be always behind with this side of it. My unanswered letters are now about 500, piled up in and around my big desk here. About fifty keep on writing me whether or no. Some have twenty-four pages to a letter. Here is a package of letters of a dear old Sister-a nun in my boyhood town. Another in Milwaukee, the Mother (they are Sisters of Mercy), writes long letters of about forty pages of beautiful handwriting. Then there are letters from Civil War comrades." Brother Dutton writes much at night by the light of his oil lamp, when his cares for the clay are supposed to be ended. In a note on the back of a photograph received from him he refers to his night work, when he said he hoped to write about several photogralhs, adding, "Not sure; it depends upon the nightshlow much time, and how wakeful!" Despite his eighty-three years of!age, his handwriting is strangely beautiful, a fine Spencerian, as clear and firm as that of a girl of twenty. In a letter about his work, in which it is evident he is writing just before dawn, he says: "The chickens are crowing: I must get my bath, change clothes and go to Mass (I don't mean Mass-achusetts). THE SAINT O(F MOLO()KAl "Half of my nights are open for personal scribbling with dear old friends, and some not so very old. "Speaking of 'official reports,' such relate simply to this Baldwin Home, my special charge. The charge grew on to me unavoidably. I came here to do penance, to work as a servant, and was permitted by Premier Walter Murray Gibson (premier in the cabinet of the late King Kalakaua), president of the Board of Health, to come here and work, as I stipulated, without pay. This was in July, 1886. The various officials since then have respected that arrangement, but, in the ordinary sense, I have no official status. Having consented to take charge of the construction of this Home, when W. O. Smith was president of the Board of Health, in the '90s, taking on its operation naturally followed. "In the three years with Father Damien (who died in 1889) I was two days each week at Kalaupapa, but have not been there now for many years. The last time was on April 15, 1893 (nearly 30 years ago), to arrange Father Damien's effects for shipment to Louvain, Belgium, for the Museum (all were destroyed by the Germans in 1914). I was his executor. Have not been away from this Baldwin Home yard since tlat time, twenty-three years ago." [Brother Dutton wrote this letter to me several years ago, and the time has lengthened to nearly thirty-seven years, but he has never left Kalawao.] "Kalaupapa," he resumes, "is, as you know, on the opposite side of here, of our little peninsula. "It's a gay town-sports, etc. Our inmates, those who like and are able, go there one evening a week for the movies. Some of the Brothers go along." A life of self denial is led by Brother Dutton. He asks for nothing, but gives much, all his time, all his kindness, his great heart bursting at all times to succor his suffering fellow man. His work hours are the twenty-four on the clock dial. He is available by day and by night. With absolute Spartan valor he takes each afflicted sufferer and makes clean the leprous sores, a daily-sometimes oftener-routine. He is amateur Kalawao M\lokfleai islandf one e The L oand of Living Death."l wehere lepers aere now treated with remarkable sueeess with the new ehaulmoogra oil speifie. Upon this beautiful peninsula, one of the tost elhrulng seenie loclities in the Hawaiian Tslands, the strieken live out their lives. Here Brother )Dutton, 'The laint of Molokai," has served for f1rty years. Here also, is the st erected to the:memorly of Father Dtrmien THE SAINT OF MOL:()KA[ physician and surgeon to them; their teacher, friend, mentor, philosopher and adviser to these children who are afflicted with what has been believed to be an incurable disease. It is now being eradicated by Chaulmoogra oil. There is a lofty majesty about the labor of Brother Dutton and his life's work at Kalawao. Serving as he began to serve forty years ago, without pay, working as he began then, denying himself luxuries, or even the opportunity to prepare himself for a visit back to the land of health and activity, the land with a future, he prefers to remain where lie is, stirring never more than a mile away fron his little village, apart from much that civilization affords. To show this Civil War veteran the latest invention of the army, Major-General Charles Morton, U. S. A., commlandling general of the American army in Hawaii, sent army airplanes from Honolulu to Molokai that Brother Dutton might be enlightened. The planes hovered and wheeled and "stunted" over the Settlement, a thoughtfulness of the commanding general which Brother Dutton al))preciated, for he fought in a war sixty years ago when airplanes were unthought of. One (lay, years ago, Brother Dutton broke his routine. He left the village and wandered to the mountains, climbed half way up and there sat half a day, until eventide smothered the sun in the western sea. The lepers wondered. Brother Dtitton's apparent wish for solitude was respected. "Why did he go there?" has often been asked. Did he meditate over his past and think of his future? Did he pine for the haunts of civilized men? Did hle reflect, even as Christ did upon the Mount? commune with his soul? fight his last battle of the desires of the flesh, when possibly the thought of the activities of life once more in the midst of his fellow men attracted him? Did he finally decide to give every last shred of his life to the cause he had accepted? It must have been the last, for from that day Brother Dutton has rarely stirred out of Kalawao. By day he sees only the little tongue of land called peninsula before him, a broken shore upon which the sea breaks ceaselessly; beyond, a tiny islet rising 566 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES jaggedly out of the sea; beyond that-only the waste of waters called the Pacific, and nothing tangible beyond except rest for his sanctified soul. It is persistently said that a love affair was responsible for Brother Dutton's penance. CHAPTER XLII HAWAII'S PREPAREDNESS AMERICA'S BULWARK MALTA OF THE PACIFIC E HEN Balboa looked out on the vast Pacific Ocean for the first time and realized the ambition of years, and visions of conquestadorial occupancy of long stretches of golden shores flitted across his mind, peopling the isles of a wonderful sea with men il armor and establishing the gay life of feudal lords, little did he dream that in a far future day a group of islands lying far beyond the horizon would be to that ocean as the Isle of Malta is to the "Mother of Seas." It remained for another sailor of fortune to spread the sails above his galleon and set his course westward in the hope of discovering a shore shining with gold and embowered intropical loveliness, for it was Juan Gaetano who found, so tradition tells us, the lava-bound shores of Hawaii island. History does not tell us that Gaetano landed with men in armor and arquebuses and established the first foreign military camp in Hawaii, but in all probability he did. Again, in 1778, Captain James Cook, of the Royal British Navy, dropped his anchor off the beautiful bay of Kealakekua, and once more men of a foreign nation landed with guns and established an armed camp. One hundred and forty years later saw established on shores of Pearl Harbor, within easy cannon distance of Honolulu, the greatest naval and military camp ever strategically placed by the great American Republic, for in August, 1919, the drydock of Pearl Harbor Naval Station was completed and the great yard formally opened as a base for the handling of warship fleets of the United States and their defense by the nearby fortifications which already command the 568 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES admiration of nilitarists, with Joseph Daniels, former secretary of the Navy, the principal participant in the ceremonies. In 1911 the channel which connects the open sea with the inner lochs of Pearl Harbor was formally opened, and the event cele: brated as one of the important advances of the United States in its plan of preparedness in making the Hawaiian Islands a military outpost to safeguard against hostile fleets the entire Pacific coast. Of such importance was the celebration of the opening of this channel that the Navy Department sent war vessels to participate in the demonstration, and sent the cruiser Californlia up the channel to safe anchorage opposite the present navy yard. The cruiser was skilfully guided up the four and a half mile channel, thereby demonstrating for all future time, that any warship of the American Navy nmay easily negotiate the waterway. It was a historical event for Honolulu. On the quarter-deck of the California were many distinguished personages, including Her Majesty Queen Liliuokalani, former sovereign of the I-lawaiianl Islands; Hon. Sanford B. Dole, president of the first and only Republic of Hawaii; the Governor of Hawaii, and the military and naval commanders in Hawaii. A document was recently found in a camphorwood chest store(l in the Archives building of the Territory of Iawaii, in Honolulu, which was written about the year 1846 aboard the famous old wooden frigate Colistitltion-the "Old Ironsides" of prose and poetry-by Lieut. I. W. Curtis, U. S. N., addressed to Hon. G. P. Juddl, Minister of Foreign Affairs of the Hawaiian Kingdom, in which the naval officer unfolded a plan to fortify Pearl Harbor, as well as Honolulu. He dwelt upon the importance of Martel towers, Paixhan guns of the caliber for ten-inch shells and sixty-pound shot. "Allow me to call your attention to the importance of Pearl Harbor," wrote the officer, "tle perfect security of the harbor, the excellence of its water, the perfect ease with which it can be made one of the finest places in the Islands, all of which combine to make it a great consideration. While the harbor was clearing out, fortifications could be built, troops could be drilled, the Clit,ln eore le~key Enligman frind idwilt -r ll ise ofKa 11)(111"I'me l" wd foiitcnm nlito h ot b ita ai luu in 1S6. "i Ia gat d (nel vrk by te(.ocleo. 1i 'I een, titsellai for Mll thebonorof desgning he, bautifu 'lla Ivilil M k. (litao ",olla,Mrc ld pantli. 21~ ~ ~~~a i~eIBF;:" 570 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES forts might be garrisoned, government storehouses built, The amount of money to be expended will be but a feather in comp)arison with the almost incalculable amount of wealth that will result upon the completion of these objects." Not a single line of that report has been disregarded by the later-day naval officials. Every word has shown that Lieutenant Curtis had a grasp of the situation which would seem tinged with prophecy. While the channel had been clearing, fortifications were built by the army on a reservation adjoining the naval reservation; fortifications whicl mount twelve- and fourteeninch guns,, while another was constructed for large caliber mortars of the mlost powerful and modern type; troops are drilled all over the island of Oahu in six separate army posts, and the garriso(ns gradually being increased until twenty thousand men may sometime be stationed on the island of Oahu alone, exclusive of the naval and marine corps force which is to be maintailed.( lThe announcement of the decision of President Roosevelt to increase activity at Pearl Harbor was commented on by every influential newspaper in the United States, and all were favorable to the project, but many fell into error in stating that Pearl I larbor came under the (lomination of the American government with allexation in 1898. That was not true. for in 1876, under President (Grant, Pearl Harbor was ceded to the United States. President Cleveland renewed the treaty in 1887 for seven years. Since the renewal of the treaty Pearl Harbor has been the subject of mllany dle:ailed reports by engineer officers and high officials of the navy. The determination of Congress to appropriate millions for the establishment of a naval base there was not sudden, lnor was it due to immediate necessity for defense, but to a carefully draiwn pllan which was decades in the making. Thle value of the harbor has never beeln (leiedl, and it has now become what the prophetic pen of a British naval officer descril)ed over a hun(lre(l years ago, "the greatest naval base of the Pacific Ocean." little did the national lawnaklers dream when they passed the joint resolution of Congress in July, 1898, annexing the Hawaii H\-AWk:I I'S IRIl l'E\ R 1N) I SS 71 an Islands to the United States, that )y that act they laid the I)asis of the future hase at Pearl I-larlbor, a stati( l which wVill he regardle(l by! those plowers which concede that the 11awaiian Islands are the "key to the Pacific," and Pearl Il-arlor the very center of armed protection to the Pacific Coast of tlle Amelrica Republic. Butt there is the navy yar(d, in reality n)ot eiglht miles from Il-onolultu arising- albove a once desolate, lantalla-covered stretch of coral and lava surface l)or(lerin-g 111)1n tlle wonl(derful Pearl lochs. \ithill a cable's lengtl of the nmoorilns of tlhe battleships are the gates of one of the finest types of (dry(locks in the world, whose capacity, while not as great as it shoulld be, will l)e far in excess of the bulk of the greatest sul)er-(lreadlnaught for years to come, for tlhe size of the Panama Canal andl( loichs will have a bearinug uipon the size of future warshipls and colmpel nations to keep themi down to a certain length. Tlhe Amelrican peol)le little realize wllat has beei (lone at I'earl lIarbor, andl little will they realize the ilmportance of tile harbor miltil iAmerican warships are placel on guar-d agailst a hostile fleet, and then its inestimablle value will he g'ivel a l)ractical demonstration, for out of that harbor il the middle of the Pacific, the very crossroads of the vast breadth of the sea on which border the nations of the two \Americas, Asia and the.reat continents of the South Seas, may issue fleets absotlute in their lower andt equipment to intercept arnled squall rons whose objective is the long and poorly p)rotecte(t acific sl ope, a harlor to which its own maimed and unsuptplied w1arships may retire for repairs, equilment, reinforcements and( supl)llies. For(l's Island, in the lochs of P'earl ltarbor, is an air service station for both the army and navy, where the lar'gest, fastest and finest seapllanes and airpllanes are statioine(. Iearl I arblr is also an iml)ortant submarine ain( destroyer base, and is equippe(l with a vast network of oil storage tankls for reserve fuel (il. The millions andl millions of lpeol)le living- under the \Americanl flag may not comprehend the value of the millions of (ollars. leing exp)en(led in and near those lochs, for the Navy I)epartment hlas been carrying on its work silently ]ut surely, working be 572 572 ~UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES neath the wvaters of the channel and lochs, to deepen where necessary, to fill in wvhere navigation (lenandeci, to widen andl straighten the channel and rednce the shallowness of the bar at the sea entrance, working with tile mechanical arms of tile dredgiicg machines wilich llave dung ont and crnsihed the flinit-like coral fornlation for years, night and dlay, nntdl wvlere only tile dimin-11 nitive gnnboat Petrel was able to steam into Pearl Harbor in J alnary, 1903, and ailcior safely on the broad bosomi of the inner harbor, battleships and cruisers 110w lavigyate and alichor in tile deepest of deep water olpposite the 1000-foot drydock. This vast work nnder water gives 110 approximate idea of how tile millions ilave been spellt, lor ilow tile hnndreds of American citizens ilave ileen laboring illcessantly. Pearl Haribor is a magnificent rendlezvons ini the Midl-Pacific for tile American navy, aild tile wvisdom of its creatioll, in the light of events nlakillg the Pacific O —ceani the oneC il wvhicll world powers are competing for commercial andl Ililitary llasterv, becomes lllcreasingly clear as one stndies tile sitnation. Hawaii is so slttiatedl ill tile Pacific tilat it is tile natnral ceilter for convergyiiil0 trai,,soceallic lines, wiletiler fronl tile Panama stilil) callal, or Alilericani, Anstraliaii, or Asiatic ports b)ordering Oil tile Pacific. By the creation of a great naval force in this oceall, tile Ailerican Ilainland wviii practically coililaild tile P~acific against any~ Asiatic or otiler Ilower. Pearl Harbor will be a Iprotectioll for ibillions ill Ilatiollal value. It wvill add to the eqnipm-enit of 'tile Unifted States for tile enterprises of peace as well as the necessities of wvar. The establishment of a lpowerfnl fleet at tile H~awai'ian Islands Ilakes ani oversea attack oil any part of tile Amierican coast too dailgerotis to be attempted. Pearl Harbor is officialiv (1esiglliatedl tile l4til U. S. Naval District, conwirisillg all tile islands. Diamond Ilead, tile lpictllresqlne crater-lpromlolltory risillg barrier-like at tile easteril sidle of Honolulu, is a fortress, tile ilost, ulinique ini tile worli, for tile crater is used for military puirposes as xvell as its slolles. Tilis is Fort Ruger. HAWA\II'S PRE PARIE) N ESS 573 The famous Waikiki bathing beach is also flanked by a 14 -inch gun fortress-Fort De Russy. At the entrance to HIonolulu harbor is Fort Armstrong, named after Hawaii's Civil War general, and founder of Hampton Institute, Virginia, for the education of negroes. At the entrance to Pearl Harbor is Fort Kamehameha, named in honor of Kamehameha the Great. At the western extremity of Honolulu is Hawaiian Departmentt headquarters, named after General Shafter, leader of America's troops in Cuba in 1898. Twenty miles away, on the plains of Leilehua, in the center of the pineapple country, is Schofield Barracks, named in honor of the Unioin general who took command of Richmond in April, 1865, after Lee's surrender. Hawaii has been referred to as the Gibraltar of the Pacific, but it is in reality the Malta of the Pacific. The Hawaii of the old lmonarchy (lays has passed. The pictures(que royal country which attracted diplomats, writers, artists and distinguished personages from every clime has succumlled to the law of destiny and has been replaced by a practical American goverlnment, but the beautiful, romantic, moonlit nights still remiain and the strum and tinkle of the guitar and ukulele are still heard beneath the swaying palms as the Hawaiians sob out their ear-haunting melodies of the Paradise of the Pacific-a land of contentiment and peace. RL71,-F'Rs (.F UANV-INl I{IN(U1)I)O OF1 DI\AI-KXI1AI 1Y.NASTY 11:;1,0il Kalllectnhala f............ Nov... 1736 Kamlcharmeha II........... 1797 Kamiehaimeha i I[.......... Aug. 11, 1813 Kliih41amha 1V.............Feb. 9, 1834 Kanichameha V............De.. 1, 830 Lunalilo................. an. 31, 1832 1795 May 20, 1819 June 6, 1825 Jan. 11, 1855 Nov. 30, 1863 Jan. 8, 1873 1pe- tl M:ay 8, 1819 July 14, 1824 Dec. 15, 1.854 Nov. 30, 1863 Dec. 11, 1872 Feb. 3, 1874 KI NGIOM ()F IIAWAII —KALAKAUA DYNASTY )avi/d Kalakaua...........Nov. 16, 1836 Feb. 12, 1874 Jan. 2., 1891 Liliuolkalani................Sept. 2, 1838 Jan. 29, 1891 Ncv. 11, 1917 Monarchy abrogated, January 17, 1893. Provisiona:l Governmient estab)lished January 17, 1893. Republic of Ilawaii established July 4, 1894. lion.. Sanford 1B. 1)ole nIlna(l President of Provisional Government of Hawaii January 17, 1893; President of Republic of Hawaii, July 4, 1894; retained Presidency to.June 14, 1900. GOVERNORS OF HAWAII, TERRITORY OF UNITED STATES, FROM JUNE, 1900 A tppointe(l l tile President of the ITtit(ted Sta:tes. Sanford B. Dole, George R. Carter Walter F. FIreiar Lucius E. Pinklam Charles J. McCarthy Wallace R. Farrington Wallace R. F'iltrrington (Rea.ppointed 1925) CHIRONOLO)GY () 11 I PMPORT.ANT EV \I NTS IN T IH FIHAN\VAIAN ISLAND)S 1527 Supposed arrival of two slilp-wrck(ed Spani:ards at Keci, Kona, Han waii. 1.555 )iscoverv of the Jlawaiial IslandIs bly Juanl (letllno, plilot-na xig:ator, clailmedl lby Spanlish:ar1clivists. 1_736 K:minehamieha the Great bo rn. November. (Tle vyear, however, is conltrovecrsial, and nma:y have been about 1750.) 1740 Paleiohlollani, king of Oahu, onl pa;ssage to Moloklai, saiidl to \have sighted a foreign ship. 1752 Ka:l lliopuu, lking of weste'rnll I:lr wii, Iruling whenl Capt. Cook visited the Islalnds, born. 1768 KaIahumlanu born at K:auiki, East Maui, of Keeauo:lllu1, tlle great chief and general of K:a1'el:imeiha, and Nam:lhn;all, hlis wife, exqueen of Ma:ui. IKa:laihuml:u }beca:mle w ife of Km1111t'lenlla(ha al(1 g'ave practical a1id, after 1820, to tlie l issioni:rics in cstfabiisling Cllristianity:nl'1llg ier peoIple, while she Aw:s pre1mIielr (kuhina nui). 1778 I)iscoverv of Hawaiivian Islands (Kauali:llnd Oal:u), by Capt..a:lnes (Cook, British iiavv, il tlie ships lrcsolution:tld l)i.scovcr1y, wlile en route froll Southl Seas to the Nortllwest Arctic Pa'lssalge, a.Ielloring off Waimea, Kauai. J:alnuar 38. Oil returnl voyage froll tlie Nortllhwest PIass;age ('1aipt. (ook dlisu(overed island of Alaiii, Novelmber 26(;:ll island of Ilawaii, l)eelill)er 1. 1 77 ('alpt. (Cook allellore(l ill Kealakekula Baly, llaw:Xii. Tanu1Iry 1 7. ('apt. (ook slain il a: meIlee at Ka:awaloa, Kellakekua B:ay. F'ebruary 14. Shli)s I Jliso(1ution all)d Disco)ery conmm1anelll d b)y (Capts. King an1l Clerke, deplrted from ITaiwaii. Feblruary 23. 1782 Kalaiol)puu, kingo of II:awaii, died in April, ]eavinlg tlie districts of Kau, Pu11a an1d Iilo, to KiwN:lao, ]his own soni1, a!dI(l Kolll, Ko1111aa an.1d l11:hnaku: a to K:lellalla1llella, l is nep)hew. Battle of MAokuoae, l)etXweXll Kameham(ln eha alnld l iwiialallo att Kleolno, lawatii i; Kamehamlllea tlriumlledl. KiXwallho slain b}y K(ellaumoklu Keoll, brother of KiwXalao. Ieearcle king of Ka;1, aind Kew(aeImall ili, king of Puna and lIilo. July. I')et Ke11lul oklu compo1lsedl the Imele, "'laui Ka L 1ai,' or a p)ropI)hecy of the overthroXw f HItlaaii by K(irneh:lnmeha1. 1)ied 1 784. 1784 (C':itains Portlock 1(and )ixon withl the shiips KinXi (;eor!/( and(1 Qu'ccn Chalrlotte, visited HIawaii an1d 0al11 and1 illauguraited trade. 1786 Comman(der La PeroIse, with two Frelceh frigates, visited Illlain1a. Mal 28. ,576 UNDER THAWAIIAN SKIES 1787 Kaiana, high lchief, visited China with Lieut. Mears in the Noottka, returning tile following year with Capt. Douglas, ill the Iphigenia, from Oregon. 1789 Kamehameha I invadled Aaui and waged fierce battle with Kalanikupule in mountain passes near Wailuku. Battle called Kapaniwai, from the bodies of the numerous slain which dammed lao Valley stream. Keawellauhlilo slain by Keoua. il battle at Hiilo, Hawaii. First American ship, Elcanor, Catll. Metcalf, visited Islands. 1790 February, massacre of 100 natives by Capt. Mletcalf off Olowalu, Mauili. Schooner Fair Amnlrican, 26 tons, tender to the Eleanor, andl commandeld by voung son of Capt. Metcalf, cut off March 16, lby Kameeiamoku, an ally of Kamehameha, in which lie drowned young lMetcalf and caused the others, except Isaac Davis, to be killed. Jolln Young, boatswain of the Eleanor, prevented by Kamehameha from rejoining Iiis ship at Kealakelkua. March 17. 1791 Keel of first vessel built in Hawaiian Islands laid Febru'eary 1. Na val battle off Koli la, Hawaii, between Kalmeli amelh: and Ke o, king of Kal.ai, and Kahekili, king of Oahli, in which the allies were relulsedl. Battle called Kapuawa haulaula (the red-mouthed gun), from the victors using a swivel pieoe mounted in one of the war canoes. 1792 Captain Vancouver, in the Discover y and Chlatham, tender, first visited the Islands and left cattle, sheep, etc. March 5. Dacdalus, store slhip, visits Wai imea, 0a:l1u. Lieut. Ilergest, Mr. Goocli and one seaman killed by the natives. May 1. Keoua slain at Kawaihae, Hawaii, by Keeaumoku, as lie was landing to 1)oldl conference with Kamellamleha.. His body with those of several of his attendants were offered in sacrifice at the tenmple just comnllcted tlhere. Kameliameha I becamle sole ruler of all Hawaii island. 1 793 Kamellamella entertained Vancouver Iand his officers with sham battle at fHawaii. Landed cattle for Kamelinmeha I. March 4. 1794 Final visit of Vancouver, January 9. Grand. council aboard Discovcry, when Kamehlameha I " eed(ed" island of tHawaii to Great Britaini, and English flag hoisted asliore. February 25. Kallekili, king of Oahull and M3aui, died at Waikiki, Oalu, and Kalanikuplule, his son, reigns. IT1onolulu hIarbor discovered ill )ecember, by (Ca1ptain Brown, of British shill lBuetlrun ort; sichooner Jactkoll, tender to same, first vessel to enter, followed shortly by the Priblce Le Boo and Lady Irosl hiftion,. November 21. HAWAIIAN CHRO()N()L()(;Y 577 1795 Kamelhameha sublied IMaii, Lanai and Miolokai. February. Battle of Nunanu, Oahu, fought in valley, in whi.eh Kalanikupule, and Kaiana, who had secelded from tile conqueror's ranks to join in opposing him, were slain. April. Oalh fell into the hands of Kamehaneha, who established his headquarters at Waikiki beach. 1796 Jlanuary, I. B. M. S. Provlidcnce, Captain Broughto(n, touched at Kealakekua, and left the grape vine. February. Kamehameha, planning attack on Kauai.and Niilha, embarked for that purpose inl a fleet of war canoes but was driven back to Oahu Iby a violent wind. April. Prolid(elnc visited Niihau; nmassacre of the marines. This was tile last of such destruction of life by the Hawaiians. July 30. Rebellion of Namakeha, brother of Kaiana, on Havawaii; Kamehameha returned from O(ahl and subllued the sllle in the battle of Kipapaloa, Hilo, i n which Namakeha was slain. August. 1797 Liholiho (Kamehanehla II), born at Hilo, ltawaii, of Keopuolani, wife of Kamehameha I. Promulgation of 'Mainalahoa'' ('TLaw of the Splintered Pa(ldle''), )rotectilig old and youn g on the lhighways byv Kalmellalmehl:. 1798 Work of creating a fleet of war canoes known as Peleleu, cornmenced; these were of a new kind, short:1ld broad, capable of carrying many men. 1801 Peleleu fleet arrived at Kawaihae, Ilawaii. 1802 Peleleu fleet arrived at Lahaina, Maui. Kameeiamoku died at Lahaina. 1803 First horses in Hawaii landed by ('apt. Cleveland from a Boston vessel, from Caliiornia. January 23. Peleleu fleet arrived at Oahu. 1804 Kamehamneha pldns ans other attak on Kauai and l'p)epares a fleet of 21 schooners, but throughl appearance of a great Ilestilence called ahulau okuu (cholera) it was abandoned. Keeaumokn, father of Kalhumanu, (lied. John Young named ((overnor of Hawaii island. 1808 Hawaiian flag said to have been dlesigned. Famiily traditions credit design to Catpt. George Peckl(ey, Einglish navigator and military adviser to Kamehameha I. 1809 Kaullmalii, king of Kaulai, visited Oalhu to meet Kanehlameha T, to arrailge cessionl of his isl:llln; enle the gr(oup bec:ame one king(1dom uller Kamtehaleha 1. 1810 King Kaiumualii ceded island of Kauai to KamehaLmeha I. Isaa;c, Davis died. April. 1813 Kauikeaouli (Kaiehameha TIT) b}orn of Keopuolalni, at Keatuhou, Hawaii. August. 578 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES 1814 Sir iAlndrcw I(1t mom)101d, IT.. N., can}tured from British, arrives for su 11pl ies. 1815 Russians arrive at Kauai a:d coimmniit depredations, hoisting the Russian flag. 1 816 Princess Nahienaena born of Kceoliolani. TlBilding of fort at r[onolulu i omielneneedl by Kalanimoku; finished the following year; commanded by C(apt. George Beckley. Russ:ian explorer Kotzebue visited Islands in I'uri(7. November 21. 1819 IKa( lamelaleha tile Great (1) (ied at Kailia, and ILiholiho, as Kallehameha TI assuiedl sovereignty. May 8. Lih(oilho, urgled by I(aahrlnlnllu originally defied by Keapuolani, breaks tile talbs on thec nigllt of Kuakahi, by eatilig with the women,11( an act tlleretofore forbidden 1llder ipenalty of death. All talms overtlhrown, 111d l)roclaw11:tion is'nuedl by king to destroy all idols and temples; nation strilpped of its religion. October. Amlneri,-ain m isionlacries sail from Boston in brig Tharddlcts for Ilawaliiain Islands to spread g(ospel. October 23. 1 820 Ilnsurrection, op}posiiig brecaking of tabus, and lattle at Kuamnoo, Il-lwaii, succeeded by another at Wairmean, awaii, in which rehelliols 1leader, Kekuaokralani, was killed and followers fled or surrenderedl; last battle. Iecemfelr 20. First American missionariel arri ved at Kailua, llawaii, iln brig '1hadde1tts, from Boston. A pril 4. Rev. Asa Thlrstoin and wife landed at IKailua. April 12'. First 11issionaries arrive at HoInolulul, including Rev. Hiram Binghaml I. April 19. Mlissionaries Ruggles andl Whiituey sailed for Kauai. First whaller, l l, C(Iar, lt. Allen, entere(d tlonolull1 harbor. December. Llihioliio lom11111nlInces toulr of thle Islainds, first to Matui, then to Oa1hu1 a1( Karuai. 821 F irst hloise of Christian worslhip dedicated at Ilonolulu, on site now occupield Iy Kawaiahao chulrch, erected 1841. Aulgust. 1822 Printing first collilenced in T awaiian Islands.,1annarv 7. Rev. Williamll Ellis, Inglish missionary, arrived at Oaihu, from Tahiti, accollmpanied by two visiting missionaries, in Prince Rcfctl t, giunbloat, a present froml King (George of Elglanml, to Lilh(lihlo. April 16. Tlols burned by order of KlaahIuman11u, regent. First Christian ilarriage iln Hawaii. August 11. I)Depature of Rev. Ilr. Ellis andl conimpanions for Taliiti. August 22. 1823 Return of Rev. Mr. Ellis and family from Tahiti. February 4. Arrival of thle seconl company of American missionaries inl the T7'amcs, from New Htaven, Conn. April 23. HA\VAIIAN (l N( ) ( )L ( )( V 57() Mlission (establslished at Lahaina. Keopluolalli, "the quieen lmother,'' lied at liahaiina, nged 45 years. September 16. Liliolihlo, Queen KKalramlallul a(nd atten(llanits, sailed for FiJig]laId in 'i'glish whaleshii) L ' Aij(c, leaving the kingdom( in charge of Kaalihllmanul, as regent. Noveaber '27. 184 Klee(aimi)oki, governor of Kauai, died. Maich 23. tawa:11ii royal party ]a:1(ded at I'ortsmlouthll, gl ln1(1. May 22. lKaumualii, ex-kin r of Kauai, die(d at IIonolulu. May 2G. AMission station established at Hilo. Queent K inamaialin ied in Lodl(lon. Inly S. 1Kling' lKan)Iteliam:tela 11 died( iln London. July 13. Iletb, illon of (eorge If nl(l'llinle, on I Ka; ai, ill wi li( 1K iaillikalii, tile lealer, was killed and his si)upporters fled. Ka1iol(lanii, ]ligh hli(fecss, de(s.(etded inlto tilie vol!ano(1 of Kili(ea to defy tl(e (1rea(d gioddless l>ele(, go,()(tess of all vlc(,a;n)oes, who was sup)lposed to dwell 1in1 Kilalea(, tilere )vy floatinllg tle sipe('rstitio0ls d(read of tile natives, one of the gl'reatest:t(ots of 1oi()l ('()oulrage known. 1 ee(mber. 1 82)5 )eparture of Rev. Mr. 1Ellis a1111 wife on tlie Il/is.:l1 fo(r New 1(ed1 -ford. (hief Boki aI(di his compni('() ai s r(etIuri1ne fIrom ()in ';gl11a1 ithil tlle l)bod(ies of Kaimehalmelha II 1an(l hi s -qu(ee in the Elglish frig;ate Blond1, commanude(l(ld b)y Lord( 1 i-yroi. May 4. First co(ff(ee tad(1 sugar lafitatitons commienced( in Manloa Va llevy, lonol)ulu. -I(Kaikeao(uli )iro):'lim(ld 'iirulr I(lndert title of 1(:III('Imei(1:lia 11, (unde'r reg'ellCv f \Kaahlia11111. Ju1le (. 182( ) Dolpl)iii, first regular A lteric(a:n mi:n-i)f-w\\(r, visitedl 11awaii. lal11i1 -lar l 23. l(aanlutai:tui, wVith 11ev. lliraml I)it'liait aindil:oll~itretlts, make eovatngelicall toour of O()a1.,1ily-Autgtst. lPctock', 1. S. sloo()i-of-w:r, ( 'alt. T'I'lis. a I) ('; tesly,Jrms, a rrivs. ('apt. Jon()les inlegtia:lt(s a tc:raty itli 1ih awall ii. ()(ctolb)r..1827 Kalanimoi)ku (lied at ]Kailua. F'liruary 8. Arrival o)f first ( atll(lie I ission)aries iln thle shlip C(onttt..Ily 71. First Laws pu)lisihed. December 8. 1828 Thlirdl compaitiiny of Ate(,ric:.n.Mlissioti:nries arrived( ill the Plt/rthc)i,i. friomt Boston. Marlh 3)0. Filrst mi(eeting liouse at Tfloinolulu deldieated. July 3. lBomki a n(l llis assio(iates sailed li (1r Souitli Seas f or san(lalwoodl carlgos a tndi wore lost. 1_829 V. S. S. lS. iln('c nc, ('aI)t. inchil, arrivedl. Octolder 14. 580 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES 1830 Lot Kamiehaineha, afterwards Ka. ehamieha V, born. December 11. 1831 Lahainaluna Mission Seminary, Maui, for Hawaiians, opened. September. Catholic 1)riests banished to California on Brig Waverley. Decem.ber 24. 1832 William Lsinalilo, afterwards King Lunalilo, born. January 31. Fourth company of American Missionaries arrived in the Avericic, fromt Boston. June 3. -Kaalmunianu (lied in Manoa Vall ey, aged 58 years. June 5. iligh Chiefess Kinau appointed p~remnier (kuhina nui). June. 11833 Karnehianielma III (Kauikeaouili) assumes- reins of government and confirins Kina m. as premtier (kuhina inui). March. Sixth company of' American missionaries arrived. M ay 1. B~ethel chnridm at Honolulu openedi. November 28. 1834 Kamnehainelv' i V (Alexa nder Liholiho) born. February 9. FPirst newspaper iprinted in time Hawaiian Islands, called ''The Lamia Hawaii, '' at Lahainauinna, Maui, February 13. 'The Iperiodical, ''Kmimu Hfawaii,' commenced at Honolulu. 1.835 Sugar planting comnmencedl systemnatically at Koloa, Kauai. Prince Lele ioliokai and Princess Nabhienaena married. Seventh company of missionaries arrived. June 6. John Young, pioneer, dliedl. I)ecemnber 16. 1836 Emma Rooke (afterwairds Queen Emmna), born. February 2. Feamale seminary ait Wa iluku, Mantu, opened]. First English newspaper, ''Sandwich J'slands Gazette,'' issued July 30. Arrival of Father Walsh, Catholic Iriest. September 30. David Kal-akana, (afterward K-inig Kalakaina), born at Honolulu, of K, a)akea and Keohokalole. November 1-6. Princess Nahiennaena, wife of Leleiohokn, (lied at Honolulu, aged 2 1 years. D)ecember 30. 1837 Kamnehaminelia I11 and K1alamia married. February 4. Eighth company of umissionaries airrived. Faithers Bacimelot and Short, Catholics, retnrn on schooner Clemacentbin. April 17. Rev. Williami Richards resigns from-i the mission to join the Hawa Iinnli government. July 3. Arrival of IT. 13. M. 's ship Sulphur. July 7. Arrival of Frencim frigate Venus. July 10. Layinig out the public streets of Ilonomlnl begun. Father M. Maigret, Catholic p~riest, arrives on Europa. November 2. Remarkable rise auid flow of the tide throughiout thme Islands. Noveumber 7. HAWAIIAN CHRO N( )L('i 7G.8; " t Fathers Maigret and T3achielot (lel)art ia the Ilonoolul. November 23. 1838 Chiefs commence to study political economy with Mr. Richards. August. Princess Victoria, Kamiamalu was born of Kinau and Governor Keknanaoa. November 1. Lydia Kamakaeha (afterwards Queen Liliuoka-lani) born. Sep~tem_ber 2. 1839 Premier Kinau dlied at Honolulu. April 4. Chiefess Kekaulnohi became premier (knhina nni). April 5. Printing of the first edition of the Hawaiian Bible. Finishied. May 10. Declaration of Rights edict. Jane 7. Kawaiaha-_o church cornerstone laid. Jane 8. Edict of Toleration promulgated (religions equality). June 1-7. Freinch mnan-o '-war L 'A rtcatisc (Captain LaPl-ace) arrived. Jnly 9. Enforced treaty with France signed, Captjt. LaPlace cairrying a way $2 0,000. July 25. 1840 Schiool for young chilefs opened at Honolulu, M.N'r. and Mrs. A. Cooke, teachers. May. IloaIpili, governor of Mauii, dlied. Januiary. Father Maigret returns to 1Honolulu, May. Rev. I'liran B1iaghian and famil1y return to thie United States. August 3. UT S. Exp~lorin~g expedition under Commnodore Wilkes arrived. Septenmber. Kamehiamieha ITT gives first written constitution to the peol)le of the Hawaiian Islands. October 8. 1841 Kap~iolani dlied ait KaawalJoa, JHawaii. Ma-,y 5. Ninth missionary company arrived. May 9. 1 842I Treasury Board ap-poinitedl, Dr. C. P. Jiudd, lpresidlent. May 15). 111 igh Chiief 11 ala iiio no]d Rev. Mr. Riefhards s,,ail as commnissioners, to the gov-ernments of Fran,~e, England, and the United States. JulyV S. Schfool for elmildren of amissiommaries at Punahlon, Honolului, commnenced (nowv Oahun College);Land given b)y B3oki and Liliha. for educ~ational puirposes in the '20s. JTuly 11. Stone mneetiiig-louse, at Kaiwlaialiao dedicaite(]. Tren-th muissiouinryl compIany -arrived. Richa~rd Chtarlton, Britishi Consull, dep)arted for England, via MXexico, seekinig warslm p to make denmainds of Hawaiian Gloverntnent. Sep~temnber 20. United States recognizes stantus of inilependlence of the Thawa-iian islminds. December 19. 582 UN I)R 11W I\\\AIIAN SKIES 843 I:stablishlmelnt of Mlasonic O()ler in h1onolulu. Lord (George Paulet, of Eingland, commanding frigate Cary.sforf, seized thle Ilawaiianl Isla]nds and raised the lEnglishl flag, to prevent Franc, from seizing nation. February 25. IT. S. frigate Co.stcllatioo< arrives. (Commodore Kearney pro)tests PauIlet's acts an:l salultes Hatwaiian flag. 3JuIly. Sovereignty of tle Islands restored by Admiral 'Tollas, British inavy, wlx-o relipudiated action of Paullet. July 31. l)r. (0. P. Juddi Amlerican, appointed Minrister of F'oeign Afflirs. 'Thle national motto of Hlawa;ii, ' TTa manu ke ca o ka aina i ka pono' ('ITl( life of the lan(l is preserved in righteousness"), wa:s:an litteralnce of 1Kamehamellrlla ii -- oin Restoration Day, in tile Thanksgiving servie inl K'awaiahao (lhrche. July 31. TRcogl ition of -Indepellldelne by Greant Britain and NFrane,. Novemllber 28. 184-4 IBelgium cinsen)ts to e til( illdelenldence of tlhe Hlawaliian Islandls. 1'ifteenth (omlllpany of mlissiollarlies arrives, on tle Glob. November. New Palace ervctedl for King.,'irst silk grownVl iln Islanls (197 )poinids) exported. DIatlh of Kluakini ((Goveror Adams). Decemlber 9. 1S845 Robert (richlton Wytliei appointed! Minister of Foreign Relit tions. Marich 2(;. tl0'resel'lta-:ti ves first choseon from tile com!mol leo)lle 1111der tlle (,onst itution of ()ctoler, 1840. April 2.!First legislature convened b1y K(alneha(llmeha IlI. Max- 2)0. Kekaluillohi, thle pIlrlier died( at; Ito)olulu..Jun e 7..lolhln Young (Keonli Ana ).appointed premicr (kulhina anii). Junel 7. FIirst export of coffee (248 pounds). 1 84(i (' liommrissionelrs laloiitedl to settle lad],l claims. IFel brnlir 11. New treaties co(cllldedl wit l ((reat Iritain anld ra'lce. Marh 2;. 01ren1ch frigate l'irli c retailrlls with $2),()000 taken in 1S, 39. Ma:rch 2(;. Treaty witl l)Ienmlllrk,egotialte throllugh Caipt. Steen 11 Tlle, conm111a111in1g 1)Daaisli corvette Gafll hca. ()ctobelr 19. FExceelsior Lodlge No. 1 1. 0. 0. P., estal)lislhed, 1Ioilolliil. 1)ccc l1)er 1(0. 184l7 1Mr. 11 V'luards, IMitiister of 1 llulic Distruetion, diedl. IFirst apll'ear:ll-e of TMormoino mIissionarllies at Ifololulult en romite ti ('alifornia, hci aded by Sam Brannain. Ilonolmului's first theatre, 'Tie T'I'espianil," olpened oln Miln;ikea st reet. Septemnler 11. 1848 G'(Ireat Mahlele,'' or 0' Divisioi of LUands.' 1)vy king amon111g lis sulbjeects. Jainllar 27 to IMalrch 7. T 1 —1.A-\N",AHAN CHR()NOIJA; O)il portrait of Louis Philiippe, Fl'rawnc, brought by French corvette S rcctlle, Ipres ntedl to Kamehameha IV. February v15. Twelfth company of missionaries arrived. First attempt at tReciprocity with the Unitel States made bly. J. Jarves on behalf of Ilawaiianl (lovernmlnt. First, on 0,tlober 26, with Secretary of State Buchaiian; and second, on November 23:, with Secretary of State (layton, of the T. S. (;vernment. 1 S49 First UI. S. troolps b:ound for Oregonl, arrive on steamnler Mloss(tchlise tI.S. 1Ionolulu fort seized by Aldmir:l Tromelin, of the Frenlch navy, andl partially destroyed. A ugust 25. lBeef first,exported from I-lands (158 lirrels). Princes oyval, Alexanler Liholihlo antl Lot I IIamehnameha, aceolmlIpCni'li by Dr.... Juildd, emliartked for thle JT rit(ed States. Septemtler 11. 18 50 llonolulu declared a il Iity, adl tll(e capital of the Kingdolm. (?) lhamlllber of (0CI1omerce organiz(e. Octoler 15. First Mormon mission arrives. Decembenl}r 1 2. Treaty between Unitted1, States and Ihlawaiii ra:tifiel. ITawaliialn postoflice esitallli>ished 1. decrl'ree of Privy Coniicil. Iecem1ber 2'2..a mes (' Your, iKaneho (n, died. First iron piil:es for government wae('rworks a rrived froni Boston. MayT 9. Kaol:leha;l widow of.John Young, Sr., died. First fire,engine (" lt(nlolllul' ) p)!ac'l iln scrvice; (lo:iolnl volunteer fire deplrtment orga niz(ed. Novenl)r 6. 1.%51 tltaw:aiian Missionary So'iety organized. Prote:'-torate offer(ed to thUe 1United States. I.arch 10. ('ourt THouse at Ilonolulu bulilt. First whale oil andl bone trl'ansslijped(. Treaty with Great Britain. July 10. First jpostage stamlps, priintedl froml type, issued( October 1. 1852 First ice intmorted, a f few toni froml San Franc ico; soldl:at alietion 25 cents plaid. iEruption of TMaulna Loa,, IFe'(lru:ry, w\itli flow running toward llilo, stolpifing within seven lmiles of same. April. Subject of Re( ilprocity Treaty with lnit(el States again moote( in Privy Council. February. )5'> MAorm(oin missionaries arrive. Apiril 28. Sma1llpox, nm'i l:juu1pu liilii, swept over tle Islandls, destroying many lives. MIay to October. 584 UNDE-R HAWA.11IIAN SKIES Steamier S. H1. Wheelcr arrived from San Francisco and entered coastal and inter-island tradle nnder name of Alcaiai. November 14. Koloa plantation, Kauai, hias first steamn engine for mechanical purl)oses. 185)4 Fort at Lahaina, demolished by order of the government. Cornerstone of Sailors' Tiome laid. July 31. Steamier Sca Bird arrived from the coast and entered inter-islani service. Steamer Wcst Point arrived iii October to enter inter-island trade. Kamnebameha HI (Kanikeaonli) (lied, and Kamehiamehia IV became sovereign. ])Decemher 15. 7855 W. P. Leleiohioku, afterwards Prince, born. Jannary 0 Second effort for Reciprocity Treaty with United States, Hon. W. IL. Lee, colnaissioner. A treaty was signed by Marcy (U1. S.) and Lee lbut not ratified. July 20. Paki, a highi chief, died at Honolulu. Jnne 13. Flour exported (43 barrels). Erupt ion of Manna Loa with flow again running towardIs and threateningl Tilo. August I11. 1856 Steanier Aohaioa wrecked on Kauiai (Koloa). Lava flowv fromt Manna Lou, ceasedi, ilistance five miles from H~ilo. March. Kanielumnebia IV and Emmna Rooke united in marriage. June 1(9. Sailors' Honie, 11 onoluilu, opened. 'Septemiber 1. 1857 Fort at llmnolulu demnolished] by order of the (loverninent. John Young (Keoiii A na), prein icr, died. July. Victoria K"aniarnvali appointed prender (knuhina nni). Chiief Justice W. IL. Lee, dlied. May 28. Adhliii ml Th'lonni s (of Redtoration fanie) (1i(1. Augulst 22 -David M\alo, eininiient Ila.wai ian Ii istorian (lied. 11 mev lees introduced. October 01. 185-8 Thie Prince of Hawilaii (Ku, iaku o Hawaii), Ihorn. May 2-0. New treat y with Prance cone Imle(ld. September 8. Rice fir'st systeniaticallv cultivatedl near Hionoldun by TDr.. P. Ford. 1 859 'Eruption of Maunia Loa, withl flow runninig toward Wainanalii. J annarv 23. L~aying of cornerstone of Od-d -Fellows' hiall. A pril 26. First Clivil Code publishied. July. (las light first initroducied into h-onlolulu. Williami Pitt Kinaum,.-on of Leleiohiokn and Ruth Keelikolanid, (lied at 1\Audmaa, aged1 1 eas September 9. TInitial movement toward estahlishmnient of Episcopal churchl, from Eng0:lan. 1)ecemiber 9. 11AWA\ IAN CHIR(N()LOG)Y 585 1860 Customs HIouse built at Itonolulu. Febrruary. Arrival of Japanese embassy en route to Unitedl States. May. Cornerstone of Queen's Hospital laid. July 17. First regular trip of steamer Kilalca, on inter-island run. July 18. Rev. R. Armstrong, minister of public instruotion, died at Honmolulu. September 23. 1862 Palmyra Island, in Lat. 5~ 50' North, Long. 161~ 53' West, taken possession of by Capt. Z. Ient, for Kamehalmeha IV and his successors, and subsequentldy declared I)v royal proclamation to be a part of the Hawaiian domain. DIeath of Prince of Hawaii, aged 4 years 3 months. August 19. Funeral took place September 7. Reformed (Catholie Mission (Anglican Epliscopal)) arrived at Ilonolulu. Oetober 11. 1863 lTis Maljesty Kamehameha IV died, aged 29 years. November 30. Prince Lot Kamehamleha ascended the tihrone as Kamehameha V. November 30. 1864 lIon. F. 11. Allen, accredited to Washinlgton in ibelalf of a treaty, as Minister Plenipotentiary. March 20. Convention of delegates to amendr the constitutioln called by the king. May 5. Convention dlissolved;and (ostitution abrogated. August 13. New constitution granted by tle king. August 21. 1865 TRoyal Order of Kamelhamlella I founded. April 11. Hon.. C. Wyllie, M\inister of Foreign Relations, died, aged 67. October 19. Removal of remnains of kings and queens frolm 1'a1ace grounds tomlb to Nuuanu Mausoleum. October 30. Departure of Quelen Emlma 1 I.n 1.. M.'s Clio, on a visit to United States anId Europe. May 6. 1866 Arrival of steamship,jaox from (:alif(orniia, ilnaugurating monthly steam service. j anuary 27. Mark Twain? arrivd on S. S. Ao....1 Januar'y 27. 1:. R. It. Princess Victoria Kamaall u died,:aged1 27 years May 2-9. Return of Queen Emmla from Fnglani. October 22. 1867 Effort toward a Reciprocity Treaty with the ITnited States renewed. Laying of cornerstone( of Anglican (Cathedral. Ilonoliulu. March 5. 1868 Kaona rebellion at Konaa 1nd( milrder of Sheriff Neville. October 19. Great earthquake on H:tawaii, with tidal wave at Kali, and (considlerable loss of life. April 2. Eruplttion of Mauna Loa. with flow runningli through Kalllku to tle soutih point of ttawtii. April 7. 586 UNDER HIA\WAIIAN SKIES Hlis I ighlness Mataio Kekuanaoa, governor of Oahu, father of the late Kings Kamelhameha IV arndl V, liel, aged 75 years. Novebller 24. 1869 (rganization (of first lodge of (oodl Templlnars, Ultiima Thule No. 1. A pril )9. Arrival of 11. R. H1. Alfredl Ernest, DI)ke of Edinburgh, in command of 11. Il. S. Galalea. July 21. Lig thollollse at eltran ce to Iionol (lull harbor permanently lighted. Auigust 2. 1 87I0 FIIiftiet-l anliv(ersary of the l andii!g of the first mlissionaries celeI:rated ill HoInaolllllly a gra;nd jubilee. April 4. Arrival of tile S.. l Won ga lfWong(, pioneer vessel of the Australian anld California 1linie of steamers from Sydney, connecting at 11oniolillu w ith the Idaho. April 19. Present IHawaii:aln tland dates from this year under brief leadershipl of W. Nlorthlcott. Arrival of tfle 'Flyil g Squadron (British) from Victoria, en route to Valparaiso. )eatll of Qe(2en l)owager Kalal a, consort of Kamehamehla IT, at Iloniolltlul. September 20. 1871 Arrival of tlhe Ncr'da, lioleer vessel of Webb'as linre of California;and Aulstralial steamers, from San Flrancisco for Sydney. April 16. Loss of thirty-three ships of Arctic whaling fleet, only seven saved. September 14. 1872 Laying of corner stone of niew government:building, Aliiolani I lale." March 20. ('apt. Ilenri lerger arrived fromi Germlany to direct Royal Hawaiian b)an1l. June. (peniiig of Rovyal T[awvaiian liotel, built by the HIawaiian government. I)eathl of Laura F'., wife of Dr. C(. P. Judd, agd, g e 8 one of tlle se(ollid balnd of mIissionaries. October 2. I)eath- of Kainehametlha V, at 1lonoluilu aged 43 years, leaving throne v:acantt:, withlout heir designated. December 11. I )eathl of Mrs. M.P.. Wlitney, one of the pioneer band of missionaries whlo arrived at the Islands in 1820. December 26. 187:3 P)rin:'e W. C. Lunalilo elected king of the Tlawaiiatn Islands by speeial session of the legislature. January 8. Kinlg Lunalilo takes thle oath of office at Kawaiahao church. I)eath of Dr. (., P. Jldd, at Honolulu, aged 70 years, who arrived at the Islanrls in nmission )bnd of 1828, and joined the government in 1842. July. Renewed effort for Reciprocity Treaty with the United States, on the basis of a cession of Pearl THarbor and( Pearl river for a naval base. IIA\\VAIAN iilIZ(NO1II)(;Y 587 PI earl Harbor cession off'er is withdriiawn1 by the Ilawaiian governmen(t. E:!Imeute at the HRoyal )IoIselhold( BaIrracks. Septemiber 8. Abolition of the arnLm, bly vrovyal comnlan1l. Septemberl 12. 1874 Deatil of King Lunalilo at 11onaolulu, aged 3:9 years, leavihng throne again vacant without heir designated(. Feblruary 3. Elecetion of lhon. David Kalakanua as King of Ilawa:ii 1by a special session of thle legislature. Feblruary 12. Riot at tIle Coutrt:Ilouse b)y anti-IKa:lkaiuaites favoring Qteen Enmma. Armed forces fro:n Almerican and Ignglishl warshills in Iort quelle(l disturbance. Felrumary 1 2. 11i ng Kalakaua takes cath (of olfice at Kinau I ale. Feblrulary 13. Prince W. P. Leleiolloku lproclaimedl Prihce Reg1ent. February 14. Passage of act allowing distill:ltion of rum on sugar plantations. Jou I e. Death of wife of Rev. Danliel Dole, who arrived in llawa:ii in 1837. July 5. Re-newed effort for a Recipilro,'itv TI't(,: wiit ih tlie anlite(d States. allnd Ions. E,. If. Al len and I. A. 1'. (Carter sen(t ais conlllissio(rs to Wa'slhington. October 18. I)Departure of ITis Maljesty ling K(1;alaa;ua on a visit to tlle Tnitel States, in thle U. S. S. Bcn(cci(, accol (mpa1ied by (1 ov ernor s )()o inis anld Kapena. Novenlber 17. 1875 Return of King:lKal akaua and suite on11 tl(' I. S.S. tIh('os'(,. lFertal ry 15. First typewriting imnachline introlduice in Ilawaii by I)illinghamn & Co. A ugust. Arrival (of tle Va(sco (de G(aml(, lpioneer vessel of tile Pa':ific Mail line of steamTers from San.Francisco for tlie Colonies. October 19. TTon1. 1". IT. Alleni returuedl to Wasllinggton on ticaty business. NovembOIler. IT. R. It. Princess lalilaliii 1born to Plrincess Likelike. October 1l. Remnainls o1f Kinag la:nal1ilo p)la(ed in i11mausole()I at t (lawa:liaall( (lchl(1rlh, eIxpressly co),lt 1tricted )b hi s wish. 187(6 (0'overnmen(t forMwlIrd(' an exlhiliit to til Ie lhilald1el(llia Centenniall Explosition. (Recil)lr(iited StTrat's ad lawaii(a an Kingdom ratified, p}erimiitting enltry (f Hlawaiian raw sugar into lUnit((ed Stlt(es firee of (lIuty, the first r('ll inllpetus to) tlie slug:r illndustry in lHaiwa ii, is ratified'(. Auigust 13. L 7T7 Lei(,ili(oku, rince Regent, li(ed. April 1(). Prin(cess Liilluokal]ani pl)rlai(ed'ill R(eg(nt. April 10. First telegral 111 alad t(l(lphole lin(' was (constructed( on Mauli, connrnectinig taiku nil(1 Lahaina.. July 23. 588 588 ~UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES 1878 His Highness, C. Kaniaina, fa-ther of King Lunalilo, died. March 13. First Portuguese immigrants arrived at Honolulu from Portugal auid its islands. September 30. laiter-Island steamier Likclikc arrived at Honolulu. 187-9 Kahului Railroad, from Kahului to Paia, Mauii, opened. July 17. First steami fire engine, imported. Cornerstone of Tolani Palace laid -under Masonic auLspices. King Kalakaua was a high Mason. December 31. First artesi an well bored at I10nouliuili, Ewa. July. 1880 Systeum of telephoniic conmmonicationi (Ilell) estalblished at Tlonolulo1, between Palace anid king 's boathouse. First instrument now in Bishop Museum. First artesian well in Honolulu. April 28. 1-881 King Kalakauia set out on his tour of the world. January 29. Cornerstone, Gf the ''Luinalilo Home,'' for aged and indigent HaW~aiianis, laid; established under will of King Lu-nalilo. April 9. Jubilee exercises held a-t Lahainaluina, Mauii in commemoration of fiftieth anniversary of establishimeint of the seminary. King Kalakauia retlirnedl from his jou-rney around the world. October 29. Great lava flow whichi reached IHalai, 11ill, Tilo, before it stoppe(1. November. 1.8829 Postage stamps for the Postal Unioa were first issued in Honolulu. Rev. Titus Cioanl, early missionary, for manyv year ptinstor of Hilo 'Church (native), Tilo, died. -December 1. 1883 Statue of Kamehau-melna. time Great unveiled in Honolulu. February. Murine railway for (locking vessels, opened. January 1. Formal coronation of King -Kalakaua and Qoeen Kapiolani took place at Tola~ni Palace. February 12. First Y. M. C). A. building in Ilonoloflu dediented. April 21. IT. -R H. Princess 'Ruth Keelikolanii, formerly Governess of Hawaii, of the Kamehiamehia dynasty, died, ageni 65 years. May 15). Oceeanic S. S. Co. 's steamer Ala-mcda arrived on hier first voyage between Sani Francisceo and hfonolului. Oetober. Inter-Tsland. steamer Kbiau arrived. (Still in service, 1925.) First instcallment of ' ' alakauna mroney arrived, dollars-, hialves., quairters anin (limes. (Now rarities.) Decembier 1(6. 1884 -Ka-la-kaua, coimmage pot iii circuflation. Janminrv 14. Post:mil iiotes- issued. Januairy1 First commpammv (95(i) of Jaaeeiimmigrants uirrive str. Ci/n1 of Tolio. Feblriary 9. Fouindation. laid for huill of Records (Kapuiniwa Hale), now board of health hoilding. Marchi. HAWAIIAN CHRONOLOGY ~~ 589 Rev. W. P. Alexander, for manny Years principal of Lahiainalu-na Semi-nary, died at Oakland, C al., father of Prof. W. D. Alexan(dcr, the historian. Princess Bernice Pa-niahi Bishop, wife of Charles R. Bishop, hanker, dlied. Her fortune was left to endow the Kameliamehia Schools for Boys and Girls (Hawaiian) an(d the Bernice Panlahi Bishop Museum. October 16. 1885 Foundation of new police station (K~alakana Hlale) laid. February 5. Qneen Emnrna, widow of Kamielameha TV, died. April 25. 1886 Great fire in Hlonolulu, destroying millioa and a half of property. April 18. Postal savings hank established. Juhly 10. Ocean Tsland became a dependency of the Hawaiian kingdom; noted for its gnan-o fertilizer deposits. Septemiber 21. Rev. IL. Lyons, for 54 years missionary at Waimnea, Hlawaii, dlied. 79 years. October. Jnbilee Anniversary of King Kalakana 's birthday celebrated. N o - venmber 16. 1887 ErnptiOn of Manna, Eon in Kani, Hawaii..Jannuary 16). TI. -R. H. P~rincess Likelike (Mfrs. Archibald Cleghiorn) died. aged 36. Februar-y 2. Qucen Kapiolaini and Pri-ncess Lilinokala-ni depa rted on visit to E~nglantid to attend Queen Vicetoria 's Jnbilee. I G reat political amass meeting hield in Hlonollu~t, to request a new constitntiomm also to lemnand dismissal of the Gibson min insty..Tune 30. New coastitution p~romilga-ted by king..Jily 7. New cabinet named, W. IL. Green, premier. Gen-eral ele](ctions to time first legislature 1h(1( under time ulew' constitntion. S,'-eptemnber 18. Supplementa ry convention between the ~n i ted States and Hiis M'a*iesty, the King of Hlawa ii, to limit the drnrt ion of time convention resJpecting the Commercial Reci Irocity Treaty concluded.nTauary 30, 1875, ratified by the king. October 20. Proclalimed by President ClIeveland. -November 9. Iloi. A. Pomfander, fourth associate Justicel, (lied, aged 75 years. First legislative assembfly Hander the new constitution meets at N~o1nolullu, 'Novenmber 3. SanMford B3. Dole,appointed fouirthi associate justice, Hawaiian Snprne Court. Trreaty~ie S eel of Reciproc~ity wNith the Uie Sta tes, extended for seven year's, bo- righit of entrance to Pearl Harbor for a coaling and repair basme for American warships. Since annexa-tion, base is developed to one of greatest limier American flag. UNDER tAN\\VAIIAN SKIES 1SiS8 Fiirst lifflusion process plant foi sugar Ilanufactulre received, introlducedl (Col. Z.. S Spalliing for Alakee Sugar Co., Kaui. Watlter lMurry (ibson, ex-nlinister of Foreigi Affairs under Kalakaui, diled at San Fraini')co. Jainuary 21. Electric ligltiiig of 1lonolulul streets estallished(. Marc 23. Lighithouse at Barber's Poinlt, Oahu, erected. (round lbroken for sti:eet railway system (mule-drawn). Mrs.. W. Alexandler, of the 1832 missioiary arrivals, died. June 29. Satiuel (.. Wilder, one of lonoluluil's most prominent citizens, pronloter of steamnlslilp line iand otiler enterlrises, (lied, aged 82 ve Iars..July 28. ()a1hu Stelamll il\way frlchise granted to B1. F. )Dillingham andl asso ialtes, on ():Oh. Septembler 4. Openlilg of streetc:lr system I)y Ifawa iiani Tramwally Co. )(eeember 28. 18.9 Par1els post system wvithi United States inaugurated. March 1. First turf for Oalm Railroaldl turned. D)eatlt of Fa1th, r I)amienl, ('atholic priest, at the Leper Settlemeit, lMolokaii, aged 49 years. April 15. Delth-l of Mlrs. Mary I)onminis, miiother-in-law of Prilncess LiliuokaIlani, aged 86 years, resident of Honolulu silice 1837. April 24. IDelpartlture of Princess Kl.litulani for Elnglandl to finish lier edlucatioll. Mayv 10. Ti-ack lnving for HIIwaiianl tramiway eompleted (12 miles). July 12. Ilsullrrectioon of R1 WV. W\ilcox and111 arty of mralconltents quickly sll)(lliedl; six insiurge'its killed, twelve wounded, and remlaindlr s81rrenl llde red. July 30. First section of inter-island cable laid between Mauli and A\olokali August 12. First trial over Oalim Railroad, called "Difllinglhani s F1olly." Septemiber 4. Opening of railroiad to Aiea and Ewa. Novenmber 18. 1!) Caile laid betweein (Oah-u andl Molokai, lIbt its first message provedl its last, owing to iniferior quality of c:ible. A )ril 2. Rev. tIiraln 1l-iinghlllam If completes his translfation of the entire Bible ilto (Gillbert Island language. April 11. ReforIm partly caebinet resigns oii a tie " want of confidlence vote. June 13. irs it ostricihes (thlree) inltrilduced from(i (a.lifornia 1 y Dr. (1. Trousseau, followed a few months later by others from) the Britih Colol ies. J une 27. Delariture ofi King K-falakalua on the U. S. S. Chorloslton for San Franc111(isco in search of hea Ilth. November 25. I\AJl I I AN (i C- r( )N( )L( )( YT:)1I Il. R. II. Princess Liliuokalanii appointed regent of the killgdolm. November 25. Official ceisus of tlhe Islands taken under dirl etioll of Dr. C. T. Rodgers. )ecemiber 28. 1.891 1leath of King Kalakaua in San Flratineisco agedl 54 years. Jan11 -ary 20. Kalakaua.'s remafins arriNved at 11onolilu on thle C(7horlIto. Jannuary 29. Liliuiokalaini proelaimlcd queen of tlile awaliiian lslnlds. January 29. State funeral of Kitng Kailakaua. lFebrary 15. Cabinet resigns at request of uenlll, alld a new milinistlry of her selection alppointed. Felruary 2. Princess Kaiulna ni, n iece of queen, proelaim(ed lhei r aplparenit. Mlar'h 9. Cornerstone, C(entrall UTnion (llurchl, llaid. Julne 3. Semni-centenniail n111niversary of foulllinig of Oahu (ollege celebrated. June 25. It. R. H-. John Ilolinis, Prinice (Consort, lied at nWasllington Place, Tlonolulu, aged 60 years. August 27.:1. A. P. Clarter, ]lawaiian Mliniister Resindeit:t Vt a.sliiiigton, died, ag:(l 56 years. November 1. 1892 Tot:al loss, by fire, of American wlha leshilip Jolm, 1'. I' est in O:iuMolokai clhannel. Crew, inl loats, 'owed to portt b)y passing vessel. January 5. lawaiia;in Ilistorilal Societv forlnied. Januallry 1'. Austrialian ballot system adopted. Februl:ary 3. Opening of THonolulu harlbor bar commliened. Alril 10. LotterIy BJill introdlueed in legislature for a tlwentvl-five year.s' franch ise. Augtust 30. 'WanT t of colnfidellce( ' r'esolution agati:ist cahinet ecarrie(d by a vote of 31 to 10. Angust 30. New ealbilnet appo(inlted with C. E. Macfa:rlane as premier. Septemiber 12. New "Want of onllfidlence' resoluitioln fail(ed bl one vote. Protest entered, and question lbeing referred to Suilpreme Court (I.awaii). President's ruling confirmed. Septembler 15. (Co:lpletion of deepleninlg h1larbor l)ar to 30 feet, at an expenditure of $175,000. Septem!ber 20. "Waint of conifidenee " resolution carries on a vote of 31 to 15. October 17. (ornwell-Nawahi cabinet formed; rejected same day on vote of 26 to 13. WVileox-Jones cabinet appoilltcd. Novemler 8. D)edication of Central IUnion Chlureh. December 4. 592 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES Cornerstone of Masonic Temple laid. December 27. Opium license bill passed the House by large majority. December 31. 1893 Lottery bill passed on a vote of 23 to 20. January 11. () the success of the lottery bill, the cabinet is voted out by a majority of nine. January 12. Parker-Cornwell-Colburn-Peterson cabinet appointed. January 13. Queen signed the iopimI andc lottery bills, and prorogued the legislature. January 14. Queen attemplts to alrogate the constitution and proclaim a new one, but is thwarted by her ministers. Citizens organize Committee of Safety. January 14. Mass meeting at tile Armory confirms the Committee of Safety organizaition an(d emnowers it "to (levise such ways and mieans as may be 1necessary to secure thle permanent maintenance of law and order and thle protection of life, liberty and property in Hawaii." Marines from the T. 8. S. B.oston landed, 5 p. m. January 16. Committee of Safety takes possession of the (overnment building, and proclaims tile monarchical system of governmrent abrogated and a provisiolal govemnment established in its stead until terms of union witil the YUnited States may be agreed upon. Resignation of.J(udge Sanford B. I)ole from the Supreme )belch to assulme the head of affairs. January 17. Special commissioners leave in stea mer Claudltc for Washington via San FI'ranmc;iseo, to negotiate a Treaty of Annexation. January 19. United States Minister Stevens, at request of Provisional Government, ipoclaims United States protectorate over Ilawaii, penlding results at Washinigton. lAmerican flag hoisted over the Goverlmenlt building. February 1. Annmexation treaty signed at Washingtonl; submnitted to the Senate 'ly President Hlarrison on the 17th. February 14. 3Bureau of Agriculture and(l Forestry estabilished. MAarch 1 Annexatioin (lub organized. March. Presidellt (levelanl (l)emn.) withdraws Annexation Treaty from Senate. March 9. Arrival of revenue cutter Richard 1itush from San Franc is,co with President Cleveland 's special commissioner, Colonel Blount, to investigate tile situation. Marchl 27. ('lomnissiomerl Blount orders American flag lowemered aid the naval forces back to their wa rshilps. Departtre of (ommlissioner Blount for Waslhington. August S. Openlingl of new 1macadlam1ized road between Hilo anl the Volcano of Kilaueae, 32 miles (listanit. October 20. HAW\AIIAN CIHRONOLOGY 5"3 IT. S. i'linister Willis arrived, aecredite(l to President )ole and the Provisional Governnent, and opens negotiatiions with Liliuokalani with a view to her restoration. November 4. MI.ass meeting in H[onolulu protested against President Cleveland's )lan to restore Illiuokalni; pledged support to resist attai ks on Provisional Governmen t ( contra r to usage of nations. November 25. IT. S. revenue cutter Corv'i;i arrives with special (leslptc(les for Alinister Willis; strong rulmors of restoration of' iliuokalani follow. )Deaneber 14. To relieve strain of p)olitical suspense President I)ole designates prominent men to wait upon Mlinister Willis, to ascertain proposed pilains. Decembner 18. NMinister Willis informed Presildent ] )ole tlhat President Cleveland hal assilmed to arblitrate in bl1ehalf of Liliuiokalan: i and concluded she was deposed tlhrongh aid of TUnited States forces; therefore, requested the Provisional CGovernment to restore the Quceen her authority. D)ecember 1 9. President Dole reilied to the de:nad(1 of the United States throuogh Minister Willis declining to acIedle, and refuting President Cleveland's right of self-assunmed arbitership. I)eeember 23. Cor'rin, departs for San Fraencisco with United States dispatches only. 1)ecember 24. 1 894 Celelration of first anlliversaryv of estalblisllment of tile Provisional Covernment. Janulary 14. Neckar Island( taken possession of lby (apt. J. A. King, on blehalf of Hawaii. May 27. (Colstitutional (Convention convened. May 30. (ollstitutional Conmvention concludes la)bors..JIlvy 3. Declaration of the new Repoldic (of H:lawii, by Presi lent Dole, in accordalnce with the new collstitution..July 4. S. N. Castle, na higlhly esteemed residenet e si nce 1.837, (ied..T ul 14. Kamehlamel. a (Girls ' School eomll)leted alnd opelledl. leclembler 1 9. 1895 Sch(ooner '(1hlberg, fromn Saln Flran(isco, tranllsf(ers 1arn1s and( alilnunition to steamer Ilaimnolnlo t(o le imuggl(ed aslhore, off Dianmond H leadl, Tonllolulu. (ixrounp of lawaiians nider lea(dershlip of SaFlm Nowle( i and R. W. Wilcox surprised at 1dusk at )iamiol()d 11(ead arming to overthrow the goverlnment and restore the (QIeen. A squnad of police a11n citizens ' guard( were fired upon. (. L. (Cater., of government force, fell mortally wounlded. January 6. )(eath of C. L. Carter. 5Martial law priorlaimed. Battle of Moiliili, seuring 33 prisoners; one of Cap)t. Ziegler's eo:lpany wounded. J.anua'ry 7. UNDER H1-IAWAIIAN SKIES Battle of Mlanoa Valley; three royalists killed, but nigh~tfall enabled rebels to escape. January 9. Sam Nowlein -and. three aids captured in hiding. Wilcox also found in fishing ]hut at Kalihii. January 14. Arrest of Queen Liliniokalani who is confined to the executive building, formerly the Royal Palace. January 16. Military Comimission for trial of those impli-cated in uprising. Sittings fromt January 17 to end of February. E~x-Queen sent to President P)ole nn abdication and renunciation of all sovereign rights, admitted and declared the Republic of Hawaii to be the lawful government, to which she certified her oath of allegiance. January 24. Liliuok~alni appeared before the Military Commission for trial charged with misprision of treason. February 5. Sentence passed on Liliuokalani, being found by the Commission 'guilty as charged.'' February 27. Military Comimission closed its labors, having considlered 1-90 cases, many of which plead guilty and but six acquitted. March 1. Street letter boxes reestablished. May 1. First typesettinig machine in IHawaii operated in ''The, Honolulu Adv'ertiser '' nexvspaper office. Extension of Oanho Railroad to Waianae.;lulv 7. Frencli Frigate Shoals ta ken possession of by (apt. King for Repiblic of Hawaii. J1uly 13. First case of Asiatic cholera discovered in TIonolulo 1; lbelieved to hiave been introduced from Orient by S. S. Belgic. August 18. Strict quairantine establishied, inter-island tr.evel initerdlict1ed. La t(1', business practicaily smspended to stamp out (lisease. Expense, $60,000. P~ri neess Ruth mansion, Eumma street, purclhased lby Board of Edoueat ion to 1 e used for Iiiglm school..Lil imokalanmi releasedI froum cuistody, but sub-ject to certain restrictioni of movements. Initial export shilpment of 486 cases, canned pineapples. Novem-ber 1.3. I, S9lO Restriction on movements of Liliniokalani removed. February 7. Mokuawveoweol, the sunuit of the volcano of Man-na, Loa, bumrst forth in activity for a brief sPell. April 21. Volcanic act ivitv at IXilauea renewed. July 11. Official census of Islands takeni. September 214. Cotmmail of S~~tate votes a full pardon to Liliuokalani. October 26. Opemming -niglmt of tlme rebuuilt music luall, Thy Annis MontagueTurmuer and local amateurs, in opera of 1.1 Trovatore. November IlA\\A;\ I IA\X CIR( ) X( )OL )(;Y 1897 A. S. WAillis, IT. S. Minister, died at Honolulu, aged 54 years. January 6. Several hundred Japanese immigrants, failing legal requireq ments, denied right to land. March 20. Japanese cruiser Naoiwa, commanl (lded by Capt. (afterward famous Admiral) Togo, with special conmmissioner, arrives to investigate imn igration matters. May 6. New Annexation Treaty negotiated at Washingtoii, wvitl Presidelt lMcKinley. June 16. Special session of Senate called to ratify Treaty of Ann1exation, which on the 9th carried unanimously. Septemiber 8. Return of Princess Kaiulani after an absence abroad of eight years. November 9. 1898 President Dole leaves for Washington, D. (., in the interest of annexation. January 0. Completion of HFonolulu 's new central fire station. January 18. Return of President 1ole. March 4. Treaty of Annexation withdrawn from the Senate. March 16. Repirese:itative Newl:iids of Nevada: introduc(ed(i aI aiexatio: i joint resoluticii ill the loulse of llepresulttives. Malv 5. Dowager Queen Kapiolani presents the U.S. SS. Charlcston with a silk American flag ill grateful remembrance of the honor shown King, Kalakana. June 2. Red (ross Society organized by ladies of IHonolulu. June 6. First excursion train of ()Oal Railroad over their eCtension to Waialna, now a sugar estate. June 9. Anllexatiol resoliution lassed l 11ou se of Rellresetati 'vcs on: v, -t of 209 to 915.June 15. The Senate confirmed the same by a vote of 42 to 21. July 6..Joilit Res)olutiton of Anll!exation signied at tile Whiit( House by President McKinley. July 7. Arrival at Hlonolulu of Admiliral Miller onl 1T. S. S. ilaeI(71phii, iemiilowered with IT. S. Minisite Sewall to carry out the act of transfer. August 3. "-Flag raisiing " day. Presidellt Il)]e form1ally celes jjurisdictiol land lpr(l erty of the ]IIawaiiain (Glovrilnmenit to tlre TTiited States of Amll ericea. Hlawaliiian flag hauledl (1owi in lreseince of Americlan iland HTawaiian governnieit officials, American flag raised; marines saluited. Hlawaiian government, unl(der tile A ieric:.an flag, contiilues as a Repull)ic unltil a ('oimiissionii dlcides oln the form of gover anmen-it for Ilawaii. The interim governimnt (outianuied with Presidentt )ole governinlg ulntil.June 14, 1900, when lTawaii becamine a de facto territory of tle United States. August 12. 59 6 UNDER HA\WAIIAN SKIES Tn this vear Amnerican troops en route to Philip)pines, landed at Honohilu for rest; naval vessels called for coal; the War Departmeat establishled a military canp at Kapiolani Park and created time Military T)istrict of Hawaii, with regulars and volunteers in garrison. The Navy D)epartinent established a station at -Ionolhin, and prepared to create Pearl harbor into a naval station. Senators Mforgan of Alahama and Cullom of Illinois, and Representative Iiitt, arrive to join with President Dole and Associate Justice Frear in framing the Organic Act providing a government of H~awaii. Camptnl MVcKinley, military post, established at Kapiolani Park. Brig. Cxen. Chiarles King, UT. S. A., arrives to assume command of district. August 28. 18 99 i)eatli of Princess K.aiulani. March b6. First case buhonic pplague in Ilonoluln. December 12. 190) TnI the work of purifying part of the city, particularly Chinatown, that section was accidentally destroyed by fire, sweeping 38 acres..Jannarv 20. Pioneer electric railway in Hawaii established at Honolulu. Hawaii hecame a de facto territory of the United States, with S. B3. Dlole as first governor. June 14. Wi reless telegraphy introdu ced, but cm ainy (Marconi system) lid -not oipeii for lmsiness until March, 1901. R. WV. Wilcox elected first delegate to Congress front Hawaii. 190i ITno'lnlnd uRapyid Transit Co. inaugurated. August 31. First territorial legislature convened. February 20. 1 9 02 Priucce Jonah Kulhio Kalanianaole, titular prince of the former monarchry, elected delegate to IT. S. Congress, as RepuhlicaIn. Dredging h'earl Marbor ilar at entrance', beginning of development of naval station. February 19. TT. S. Selnatorial Coimmission begins investigation of affairs in the matter of iproposal to make changes in the Organic, Act, pa rticularlv wiath refere-nce to slands. Tranisfer of Aniglican Chiurch to Protestant Episcopal Church of America from his LordIship Bishop Alfred Willis to Bishop Nichlls, of California. B3ishiop Willis sailed for Touiga. Clonmmiercial Pacific, Cable line landed at Waikiki, Ilonolulu, by cablesli p Sitrertowvn, connecting San Francisco with honolulu. Messaiges exchanged immediately; greetings from President Roosev-elt and Clarence Mackay. Reception andl ball in evening at Palace for officers of Silvertown. December 28. 1903 S. S. K-ora. (Pacific MlNail) makes record betwieeln San Francisco and HTonolulu in 4 dlays, 22 hours 15 Minutes. January. HAIAXAIIAN CHIRUNOUL(;N Legislature creates county goveriunmeut making each island a county. Alexander Young Hotel opened. July 31. Sugar crop for year 437,991 tons. Robert Wilcox, revolutionist, died. County Act by Legislature, fraimed, effective JTanuary 4, 1904, dividing islands into five counties, viz., Oahu, Mfauii, Kauai (with Niihau), and Hawaii (divided into East and West). Supreme Court declared one portion of the Act unconstitutional, CGovernor Dole leaIves exeeuti vesh i p of Territory, flirough appI'oiiitment by the President as federal judge. George R. Carter, secretary of the Territory, appointedl governor. Inauguration. A. L. C. Atkinson named as secretary. November 23. New Tndustrial School for Boys opened at Waialee, Oahu. May 13. Torrens Act for registering and confirming titles to land, passed by legislature, in effect. July 1. New Oceanic wharf constructed. Plans for excavation of slips for great wharves facing on Allen street. Old Odd 0 Fellows' building being replaced by four-story brick structure to cost $70,000. Comipletion of deepening of Pearl Harbor bar; now 30 feet deep at low tide, with width of 200 feet for 2,000 feet. August 3. %rew of French bark Comstoblc d(e RPwiehniond, wrecked on Preach Frigate Shoals, October 10, reach IN-iihau island. October 18. Schr. Jiilia E. Wha7cn, with supplies for -Midway ls and cable from Honolulu, wrecked on Midway Island. October 28. All Gilbert slanders brought here years ago For plantation service sent home by R S. Isleworlt. October. 1 905 County Governmeont estabished. 1907 Legislature proviledl for establishiment of Agricultural College. Governor Carter resigned governorship. August 15. Judge W. F. Frear appointed and inaugurated governor. August 15. Second group of Filipinos for plantation field service arrived on Nippon Marin. Feiriar. Third shlipmlnent..ully. First Los Angeles Chiamniber of Comnmu1Teree ion party arrived onS. S. Ohio. M\arch. Oahu Country Club, Hlonolnln, opened. April 27. First part y of Congressmen from Washington visited IHawaii to learn -thoiut [I.~als. $1 5,00() exp~enses pa il 1 y legyislature. May. M'ore immigrants fromn MVadeira Islands arrived on S. Kumlcrie. June. JIa panese government, by arrangement with ITnite(1 St ates, limited emiigrranits to HTawaii to 200 a month. 598 UNDER HAW\VAIIAN SKIES Commercial Club opened. July 20. Makaptlun lighthouse unider constructioin cast end of Oahli, to have most powxerfil light in Paeifie. Hawaii 's koa lumber finds market on American mainland. $410,000 improvement in Honolulu harbor begun by War Department. February. 1908 3Bids opened for HTilo breakwater. March. Construction commenced. Septelmber 12. Kahuliui harbor Ibreakwater practically completed at private exl)ense. Work begins on construction of naval base and drydoek, Pearl Harbeor. Tobacco pldantation established at Kona, Hawaii. THawaiian Pineappl)e Growers' Association organized. May. -Famous Atlantic Fleet, Rear Admiral Sperry, arrived on world cruise. July 16. I'acific Fl(eet arrived from San F'rancisco, Rear Aldmiral W. A. Swvinbrne, command ing. September 2. Hawaii presents Mark Twain with koa mantel piece on his birthldayS ill reeog'lition of llis friendrly interest. New MeKinley High School opened. September 11. Work begins on additional buildinrgs for Fort Shafter. -1)r. Robert Kochl, world 's (en'lilent I acteriol gist, sto- rci a;t tn11o111l; visited leper settlement on Molokai. 1909 New mlunicipal government of City and County of THonolulu inlaugurated,t J. F. ern first mayor. January 4. Pier 7, Honolulul 's modern wharf, finished. January 4. New rovyal lmausol(lm ervyl t for lbodies of niembers of the Kalakaua dynasty completed; cost $25,000. Kliauai comnldet(ed twelve miles railroad from Makaweli to Koloa; colmpany cl ap)italized at $125,000. Tlilo Ril riload Company mcompleted fifteen miles to Hakalau from 1lilo along scenic HTamakua coast. Prof. T. A. Jaggar proposed that Massachusetts Institute of Technolog'y (estahllished obiservatory:and laloratory for study of eirtll(j:1!.ke ml' volc, nici letenomnena on tbrick of K;lau,,a vole- o. island of lawalii, as lbing best location in world. Proposition promised local aid. First lot of Russian immigrants from Siberia arrived, eomplrising fifty families. (This and later experiments were unsuccessful and plan wavs abnandoned.) October 21. Brig-Cen. John J. Pershing visited Toniolulu; also John Burroughis, in.tiural ist. Liglthouses established and lighted at Maklapul Point, Oahu; Kalawao, AMolokai; Kailua, Hawaii. 11INA\VILAN (iJRO()X()IJ)GY New University Club buildings opened at l-laalelea Lawn. August 5. N uw Me [00(1ist churchi mun new Kamunakaip ii (native) chur-ch ajpe proaching completion. -Mid-Pacific Institute comnpletedi. Memorial arch erected at Kailua, Hawaii, in. rne-nory of first missionaries, and of Opukalhaia aanl his native Chiristiani comrades. lRevenue cutter Thetis captures tweuty-three Japanese 1)i rd 1)oachers on Laysan TIsand, west of Hawaii (part of group). Value of jIlummuige taken was $1.22,000. 1 910 Second federal census of Hlawai i taken under direction of lDr. Victor S. (lark; totail of 191,909 souls, as againist 154,000 in 1-900. April 15. "Bud" ' Mars introdlucedl aviation ait lMoanalua, near IHonolulu. Decem~ber 31. 1911- Chiolera outbreak (controlled; under authiority of UT. S. Pibll]ic Health Ptepartmnent, all banana plants in Honolulu cut dlownr to prevent yellow fever entering city, on ground they were breeders of' moosqu itoes. February. Iflonoluflu p)etitionedl thiat fedJeral lmi ding Ihe located on square opposite old royal palace, instead of on MAhufika site, in business district. S.S. Otrtrri' rrc from P)oritugal vith 1,45-1 'Spanish and Portuguese imnuugrai-ts. April 13. Naval d~rydock work at Pearl Harbor naval staltion progressing; 2,500 piles driven in coral floor of site for a firin foundation. ''Pan-Pacific 'Travel Congress'' launched to I)ronlote amity between countries in and bordering uipon the -Pacific. February Schelooner Moi TWahin~c and IT. S. Lighthouse tender Kulcui collide in M~olokai channel, former siniking. All hands lost except Ca ptain Sam Mi~ann, who swam twenty miles to Lanai Island. Fehrua ry 27. Lava hrick p~lalit established ait Kaimuki, ifon olulu; capacity 20,000 bricks per dlay. Rubher plantation. at Nahiikul, Maui, appe~ars to h-e flourishing, withi 35-0,000 trees set out. Mcl~inlev statue at MNcT~inley THigh School unveiled. lDr. Frank Perret, of volcanic research renown, and 1)r. E. 'S. Shephierd, of the Carnegie I-nstitute, Washington, study Kilauca, volcano; secure temperature reading of molten laval, rec-ordinig 1010 centigradle. July 30. 'Shleffield Chioir, 200 voices, gave concerts in Hloriolulnu. Mayi. Frenchi aviator Masson made successful monoj dlane flights from SchIofield arraicks to Kapiolan~i Pa-rk, Honolulu,.hune, 18. Residents observed Coronation Day in honor of King George V anid Queen M,,ary. June 22. Sosa'shnd gave two concerts -at Tonolulu. (100 UND00UNDR HAWAIIAN SKIES Mifass meeting fiassel resolutions favoring unlimited arbitration between England andt United States; Dr. David Starr Jordan talked on Tnternational Peace. July 9. Duke P. Kahfananmku, of Hu-Tii Nala club, made two amateur swimining records; 100 yaris, 55 2-5 seconds; 50 yards, 241-5 seconds. August 1-3. 1-912 Cornerstone of College of Hawaii laid. January 22. Bnilding comnpileted in July; cost, $66,000. Librar y of h1awaii completed at cost of $105,000. Alice Mackintosh memorial bell tower of St. Andrew's-, Cathedral comileteil and dedicated by Bishop Restarick. June 2. Fire (lde}artmeiut commenced change from animal to motor eqnipment. Feder.afl Telegrapih Co. (Poulson system), opened news service between Pacific Coast and Oahu. July 28. V. S. S. Coliforvio flrAt modern warship to steam up uewly dredged channel froim s -ea to Pearl Tharbor Naval Statiou. December 14. Duke P. 'Kahianamooku,.iawaii's chlampion swimmer, goes to Sweden, via New York, making the American team for the Olympic games at Stockholm. His 100-meter (lash at Stockholm, July 6, won victory for America and gave him championship of' the world; recoril time,, 6_2 2i'-5 seconds. Broke own record at Hlambnrg and at other places. Accorded 'aloha'' welcome at ffonolulu and presentel with hiouse an(I lot at Waikiki. 1913 Naval drydlock, Pearl Hfarhor, collapsed wlhen caisson pumped ont. February 17. New plans for holding bottom discussed and expertts see t by ca vs-Y to IIuonol lui to deuterimnme new method construction. 1. E. Pinkham appointed fourtb Glovernor of Hawaii. Bronze memorial unveiled at Oahu College on 74th birthday anniversary of late Gen. Samuel C. Armstrong, of Hawaii, Civil War general, and founder of Hampton Institute, Va. January 30. Rev. HT. H. Parker completed 50th anuiversary of occupancy of Rnwaahiao ch1urch pulpit, 1enolulu. Jae 218. 1914 Primary law-s effective at year's elections. Centenary of Kamehlameha ITT observed at Kawaiabao church; also at Keauhliou, oana, Tfihwaaii, Iiis hirthiplace, whlere a tahlet was lunveiledl. Queen L~i aukala nii and the -f ighi (Iiiefess Kekaniau11 Priatt altenled Ibothi observances-. MT/arch 17. Coffee crop for year estimated at 45,000 bags. Sugar output estimated at 6-20,000 tons, with low market price. Chamiber of Comimerce and Moerchants' Association amalgamate, aniler name of Chamber of Commerce. May 27. New Matson Navigation Compl1an: y steamer Moatsomia arrived, five days 4 hours 6 minfutes. February 2. HAWAIIAN CHRON LOG )Y 601 New Matson steamer 3Maoa arrived. March. Capt. 1. C. Houdlette, commanding the Oceanic S. S. Sierra, on arrival, rounded out its 100th voyage between San Francisco and Honolulu. March 2. German refugee ships sought and received shelter in Honolulu harbor. German gunboat Gcicr was interned; sixteen merehant steamers also interned. Japanese battleship Hizen, cruising off Honoulul, captured German schooner Aeolus, and burned and sank prize with copra cargo, outside three-mile limit. Vessel and cargo valued at $80,000. Mary Castle Trust trustees ldonated old Kawailahao Senlinary lot in Mission Center to Htawaiian Board of Missions for Mission Memorial building. Capt. Henri Berger's 70th birthday honored by special band concert, attended by high officials, when he was decorated with a gold badge in token of esteem for his 42 years of service as director of the old1 Royal Hawaiian Band. August 2. 1915 IT. S. Submarine F-4 sank while entering the channel to lon(olulu harbor from sea cruise. Efforts to raise the submarline were extraordinary an(d vessel was bronght up from 50 fathoms le )tlh of water. March 25. (She was in a broken, bruised condition and only bones and other almost unidentifiable remains of the officers and crew were found when vessel was dragged ahore.) S. S. Great Northern departed from H-onolulu, 11 p. m., reaching San Francisco in record breaking trip, 3 (lays 18 hours. December c(. 1916 Kuhio wharf, Hilo, completed. Protected by breakwater. Inter-Tsland S. S. Co. installing second coaling plant. Coaling plant, with wharf, railroad and hoisting towers in operation at Pearl Harbor naval station; 1,000-foot concrete wharf at head of drydock is nearing completion at navy yard; naval high power radio station practically complete. IUnited States accepted Civic Center site for Federal building, giving up original Mahuka site. To construct million-dollar building. Princeville plantation property, Kauai, sold to Lihue Sugar Plantation for $250,000. Fifteen new buildings finished at Fort De Russy, cost $100,000. Hilo Federal building, costing $200,000, almost completed. Hawaiian Sugar Planters' Association, in view of high prices for sugar, evolved plan for bonus payments to all employees, office, mill and field. Estimated bonus payments $4,000,000. Government plans restoration of the more important ancient Hawaiian temples (heiaus) found worthy of preservation. Mme. Melba revisited Honolulu and gave concert. Mtaui held first county fair at Wailuku. November 30-December 2. 6 021 602 ~UNDE-R 11X\VAT[AN SKIES 197Internedi Germian steamers Holsatia, Setos, Fornirn e, Prinz Walb (1001ar and others, set fire to by their German crews, and machinery wrecked. C unhoat Geicr likewvise wrecked. American bluej ackets -and mnarines save Geicr from destruction. Captain Grassh~of suirrendered his vessel which was under parole. Officers and men taken to military 1)osts for imprisonment. Other merchant vessels were Long nmooa, Sl atssec1rcter Kfractie,, Gotivcritur Jacschikc andI schooner i-rus as taer 0. J. D. Ahflers, at Hiuo. Gernian gunboat Geier, reconditioned at Pearl Harbor, renamed IT. S. S. Carl Sclhurz, commissioned and sent to Atlantic where later it was suink in collision with an Amneric-an ship. Severe, rain storm swept Oahu; 13.36 inches rain fell -in 24 hours; roads badly damaged. March 19. H-awaii entered war by giving liberally to all calls for funds to conduct the war against Germany. First Liberty loan drive, in Julne, contributed $4, 857,8150, far above estimate; the second, in October, $8,000,800, going over allotment by $5,000,000. The ariny alone subscribed $1,269,150. Red Cross funds contributed totaled $233,291.25. April 6. i-sland of Lanai sold as cattle 'ranch to F. F. and 1T. A. Baldwin for $588,000. Royal Hlawaiian hotel sold to Army and Navy "Yin for $250,000. A inahatn, once, home of' Princess Likelike aend 1Princess Kainflani, at Waikiki, Sold and (lividied into building lots. ''Ionoluh~i Hfale,''1 adjoining old postoffice on Merchant street, built of coral blocks, constructed in 1843 as Hawaii's -first executive building, razed. New Matson liner Maui arrives on miaide-n voyage from San Francisco. Soon afterward the Maui, Matsonia and Wilhelminna were commandeered by the V. S. government as transports in the Atlantic.,Kilaiuca volcano active. May. War registration throughout Hawaii, with total of 25,970. July 31. Officers an(1 crew of 'Schr. Churchil, wrecked on French Frigate Shoals, brought to Hfonoluflu in samipan. Octoher 30. ''Draft dlay,'' 300 men being drawn in each of the six draft districts. Noveniber 1. Former Queen Liliniokalani- died at, Washington Place. Novemiber 1-1. State fulneral. of Liliinokalani fromn former royal palace. Intermient in 1{alakaiua crypt, at Royal Mausoleum in Nima nu Valley. November I 8. A nother Congressional party from Washington visited Islands on invitation of the Hlawaiian Legislature, all expenses paid. Trip halted by death of Queen Lihiuokalani. IHAWAI IAN CHRON( LO( GY (03 1918 Hindlu poet, Rablndranath Tagore, visitor. January 23. Sir Ernest Shackleton, explorer, a visitor. April:3. Rev. H. H. Parker, pastor of Kawaiahao (native) church for 54 years, resigned. C. J. McCarthy appointed sixth governor of ITawaii. Dr. W. T. Brigham, director of the Bishop Museum, Honolulu, from 1889, resigned. Appointed curator emeritus. Capt. William Matson, founder of the Xlatsom Navigation (o., oldtime master of sailing vessels between San Francisco and Hilo, died at San Francisco. New Pearl Harbor radio station formally opened, exchanging messages with Sayville, L. I. September 28. Copper pennies, 5,000 imported by banks because of small war taxes needs; first to be used here. Gale blowing 52 miles an hour struck Honolulu, lasting three days, uprooting thousands of algaroba trees, wrecking telelphone-electric wire poles. )amage estimated $500,000. Decenbler 3. 1919 HTawaiian senate voted d(own female suffrage. Fifth Victory Loan drive raised $5,005,G50, or $217,050 above quota. April 24. Summary of Hawaii's share in various war loans, Red Cross, United War Work, etc., covering war objects, showed total of $34,000,000. April. Fiftieth anniversary of establishment of Y. M. C. A. in Honolulu observed. April 30. Kamehameha Day, one hundredth anniversary of death of Kamelhameha the Great, observed with historical procession. June 11. Two army seaplanes left Luke Field 9:10 a. m. with one bag mail, and arrived at Hilo 1 p. m., 190 miles. July 3. Bank of Honolulu, owned by Irwin interests, sold to Honolulu capitalists. Formal dedication of Pearl Hlarbor Naval Station drydock, with Secretary of Navy Josephus Daniels, principal speaker, accompanied by Admiral Parke, engineer of dock. Said it would be available to merchant marine vessels. Daniels arrived on U. S. S. Ncl Yor1>. Auigust 21. Eruption of Mauna Loa, at elevation of 10,000 feet. Lava flowed rapidly down mountain, crossing government road in Kona district (and fell into sea at Alika. Septelm)er 29. Followed by tidal wave on K(ona coast. October 2. Eruption ceased November 11. Admiral Lord Jellicoe, hero of Jutland, visited Honolulu on H. B.:r. S. Newc Zealand. October 31. 604 UNDER HAWAIIAN SKIES Territory purchased Ala Moana property (Kewalo) to dredge ship slip and build wharf for lumber carriers; purchase price $125,000. Territory purchased shore frontage at Kapiolani Park for War Memorial Park, cost $200,000. 1920 Opening of hundredth anniversary of arrival of first American missionaries in Hawaii; special guests from mainland representing missions, churches, colleges; included historical procession, historical Tawaiian pageant at Rocky Hill, Punahou, depicting old Hawaiian life, arrival of missionaries, education of lHawaiianls, etc. Eminent mainland speakers at Kawaiahao church. April 11. Celebration lasted week. Prince of Wales was special guest at the Hawaiian Pageant, April 13. Prince of Wales arrived on HI. B. M. S. R1enown. April 13. 1921 Gov. C. J. McCarthy (Dem.) resigned office to accept Honolulu Chamber of Commerce representation at Washington. Wallace R. Farrington (Rep.) named Governor by President Harding. Hawaiian Homes Act (Rehabilitation Act) passed by Congress, providing for Hawaiian Homes Commission at Honolulu, to set apart territorial lands for Hawaiians in 'back to soil plan." This was the life hope of Prince Kalanianaole, delegate to Congress. First experiments to be on Molokai. July 9. Reclamation of Waikiki swamps (Honolulu) commenced; provides for drainage canal to open sea and filling in. T. i:. Davies & Co. business block ($1,600,000), an art structure of unusually attractive design, completed. Pan-Pacific Educational Conference convened, to discuss possibilities and needs of education in the several countries, viewed from standpoint of their civilization, form of government, etc. Delegates present from many countries. August. S. S. Empire State made run from Yokohama to Honolulu in 8 days 4() minumtes. Following month Golden State (Pacific Mail) made run in 7 days 18 hours. September 19. Oysters planted at Pearl Harbor and Ianeohe Bay, Oahu; also rainbow trout eggs from Utah, Colorado, placed in Kauai island streams. Sellr. Carrier Dove wrecked at Kalae o Kalaau Point, M.olokai, with copra cargo from Tonga; total loss. November 2. Historic Ainahau, residerce in monarchy times of Princess Likelike and daughter, Princess Kaiulani, burned. August 2. Swedish yacht Fidra, formerly Lord Dunraven s racing yacht tCaseiad; American steam yvaclt Aloha (Conumodore James, N. Y.), visited Honolulu. HANVIAIIAN' CHiRONOLO)GY 0 603 Aloha Press Congress (Press Congress of the World'5 convened at Moana Hotel, delegates from all parts of world, to discuss press service. October. 1922 Prince Jonah Kalanianaole, last titular prince of the monarchy, nejphew of K-ing Kalaka-La, delegate to Coiigress from H~awaii for 20 years, died at Waikiki. January 7. Hundredth anniversary of first printing in Hawaii on missionary press, H-onolulu. January 7. Opening of million-dollar Federal building, honolulu. April 1. Openinhg of historic W~ashing~ton Pl.ace ani sion as governor's official residence. April 20. HT. A. Baldwin elected delegate to Congress to succeed Prince Knhio. W. I)..-J arrett ()en)electedI delegaite to Congress-, sniecee(linlg Bald1 -S. S. City of Los A~ng~eles arrived, inaugurating -new Los Angeles Steanmship Company service, to honolulu. July 17. Secomll linler, Citi1 of Jfoa o/u/o, burned at sea; no0 loss of life. S. S. LaonoiaU arrived wi~th rounid-thie-world party of 420. Decemiber 16G. 1923 S. S. 1Resobuice arrived with rou-ndl-the-world party of 462. February 1. S. S. Emprecss of France arrived with round-the-world party of 800. February 16. IHawaiian legislature passes IHawaii's ''Bill of Rights'' addressed to Conigress, aking that the Territory of Hawaii be more liberally Ivega vr'ied I~ C (ougress in a Ipp10plint ions, o)n ground)( thi aIt 1Tna is ain integral part of the United States. March. Hlarbor Commission program approved by legislature to develop great wharves, at Honoluilu, K~ahului and IHilo. March. New- Inter-Island S. S. Company express liner 7Ialealkala arrivedl from Philadelphbia to go on ''Volcano Route,` Honoluflu to IHilo. March 15. S. S. anna, Kea ra-mmedl lumb)Ier schooner MTaryj E. Foster causing latter to become total loss on TDiamond HeadI reef. April 20. S. S. Son)iaria arrived with rouind-thie-world party of 400. MN'ay 7. U.S. S. Om)aha made record run, honolulu to San Francisco, in 3 (layis:3 houirs 40 minutes. a-8 S.S. P-esiden t Taft maile record run, Ynkolhiina~ to Honolulu ain 7 das, 8 houirs 30 miiinutes,,. June 7. aldi forininI yaIchts fin shied racee Santa B1arbaia, to hlonoluilu; woni b~y Diablo, with M1ariner second. Spbidrift andi Viking were thiirdI and fourthi. July 31. Opened with great building projects for Ihonolulu, including coinpletion of' Castle & Cooke office building, of elassic design; con 606 ~~O6 LUNDER 1HANVAII1.AN SKtIES struction of ncw First National Bank Building; construction of new Bishop Bank building; Hawaiian Electric Co. building; in downtown group, adjacent to T. H. Davies & Co. building and Young hotel. January. 1924 h1ouse of Representatives (Washington) passed unanimously Hawaii 's ''Bill of Rights." Senate passed Bill. January. National Parks Bureau convention, on mainland, resulted in large appropriations for hawaii National Park (Kilauea volcano), for roads, trails, improvements. January. Old Pali road reconstructed. February. French cruiser Jeanne d'Arc departed for Fran-ce, after visiting lonolulu for 10 days. February 4. S. S. Lacon Ut visiteti J I ooloilu with rouind-the-world p~arty of 7120. February 6. Commissioner-General W. W. Huisband, of Federal immigration bureaui, reorganized H-onolulu station. March. British battleship HUood, cruiser -Repulse, and lesser warships arrived at Honolulu. June 6. lingo triplel pier (wharves 8, 9 and 10) completed, adding enormous (lock space for o~cean liners. July 30. 1925 Amneriea i war fleet co-ndticts itotatlle aititeox-ers in I htvai iatt waters. April. Coot tot 111(1 e 1 Jolt]) RodIgers and revew of i a vy plmwt P N-9 flew fitont San Francisco to within 180 miles of' Maui. September 2. Lost until September 10, when discovered by navy submarine. Crew rceceived great official welcome in Honolulu. hawaiian historical Society launchedT plan for celebration in January, 1928, of 150th anniversary of discovery of Hawaiian Islands lbx (a pt. Jamites (ook, dletails P~rll~o5(N ly A. P. rTliylor, librarian, Areltives of Hawafi. August. Hawaiian Legislative Corninis"sioli takes phlan to Wasltiitgton to suge Stat e 1 l)eartmuent to extend invitations to Governments of' Great Britain, France, Spa in, Russia, Sweden, to join with -United States in mobilizing asquadron off Kealakekua Bay, hawaii, on January 16, 1928, to fire, a salute of honor to Capt. Cook. November 11. ''Aloia, Tower,"' at foot of Fort street, rising to dominate waterfriotiit - Id be a Nvelc title bieacon to traivelers. (Pledicated July, 1I9 2 6.) Governor Farrington reappointed by President C"oolidge. Mar-ch. S. M\. Damion Building (Bishop Bank) opened. November 9. First National hBank building completed. December. Ground broken for new Bank of' Hawaii building. November 13. fillWAIIAN CjIAR(NOL()GY Malolo, finest passenger vessel ever constructed ill an A mlerican shipyard being constructed at Philadelphia for Ma\tson Navigation Co., to be completed 1927 and make run between San Francisco and Honolulu in 41/2 days. November. New Royal Hawaiian Hotel, to cost $2,000,000, being erected at Waikiki on site of old Seaside Hotel. Owned by Territorial Hotel Co. and Matson Navigation Co. Lord Allenly a visitor in Hontolulu. May. Ilawaliian itistorical Society adopts T:aylor plalii for sesqu(i cenltennial of Captain Cook's discovery of Itawaii, for 1928. June. 1926. Sanford B. Dole, former Presidetit of Republic of II\:wai, i died. June 9. State funelral June 11. Matson liner aloloo launched at Philadelphia. June 26. Honolulu celel)rates Sesquicentenllt i:al of In(dependence withl mon1 -ster militlary aI(l civic p.aradl(e and( nighlt pageant. July 5. );lauglhters and Sons of Iawiian Wa:rriors lhonior old IT... Frigate' Constcllation:it Sesquicen teni i:l Exposition, 'Phila d(ellli ia, by presentiig aII- Hawiian fnl g alid leis. July 7. (See Con,'scllation?, July, 1843.) Crown Pritnce anid Price('ss of Sw(len visit loiiolulu. August 9. Occ:alnic( S. S.. liners a';rrive u(lder Matsonl N:lviggation Co. flag. May. (Germaltl cruiser 11llamuurg, first to visit liloolulu sillce \\orld War', arrives. June. New Territorial Office ullildiiig occupied. October. New (ooke Memorial Museum co mplleted. Sugar output for 1926, estimalted, 757,000 tolls. ~,1~:11~1 ,: -~i~.Bi~~~ iiUi ~I"~3~i i~ ~~~~ "~'-;;,;E ''" ~!il - '~i~! ~~ i ~ ~a ~~ ~; 6~~ ir. Y-a:~:li i isr iEi~~~, ~~ w. Ildi rQ~ Efxi,-l IpY11 ~~~- ao-~ ~'~j~ E. :~s :~~, iLllr ri "i"r -.~ ~i/~n d " .IE8`'i~.~~~-~~:~;~:~::~-:r i~a ~ I I.:vb"~ib"i~i.~a~ Iill a~ia ii~. O iB I R;~a ~~i~ a ~~ I~-'a~ ~ li; "1"131E BlilTIIOR Albert Pierce Taylor, the author, is a Western man, whose home is now in Hawraii, where for tweaty-five years lie hats beien conneeted wvith tlie editorial staff of ''The Hoaolulu Advertiser,'' of Honolulu. lie has made a study of and is a recognized literary authority todaiy oni thinigs pe'rtainiiig to Pearl Harhor and the defeases of Hawaii, aaid Hwl-iiaaian lhistory. During the 1896 canmpaign of the Natioaal Silver Pairty ait Waish ingtoir Mr. Taylor wais assistant secretary of that organization. Later in. 1896, lie joined the Cuban revolutionists anid.was arrested hy the Spanish, iml)risoned at Havana), by General Weyler and deported. li 1899, as a lewvsp'aperman1:111, be he wavs aboa-ird the U. S. Army transport, Soonm, that wars almiost engulfed off ILuzoni, losing 371 out of 373 horses anid mules.M Taylor's graphic description of the disaster went aroullt the wvorld. For two years Mr. Taylvor occupied the position of chief of detectives inI l-Tonolulu. In every way lie is qualified to tell the stor-y of 1Ha na.-ii aIs it should be told. Ile was born in St. Louis, December 18, 1-872; lived in Denver till 1876; was almost the first boy to go to Leadvile, Colbrado, 1876-1877, when it was a roaring mining camp. Lived in Salt Lake City from 1882 to 1895; was assistant secretary Silver Party convention, St. Louis, 1896. Secretary to Hawaiian Annexation Commissioner at Washing0ton, 1897-98. Arrived in Honolulu August, 1898, and was one of secretarial force with the U. S. Senate Commission which framed the Organic Act for the Territory of Hawaii. In 1913-14 represented hawaii at Panania-Pacific Exlosition, San Francisco; secretary 1-awaii Promotion Committee, Honolulu, 1915-1917. With honolulu Advertiser editorial staff again from 1917. On December 1, 1924, under appointment of the Commissioners of the Archives of ji awaii, Mdr.. Taiylor asstinied the (liities of librarian of archives, one of the most valuable collections of historical papers in the United States.Mid-Pacific M1agazinie. I UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN I II Ii III III I78 I 3 9015 04878 4808 Du tar a