glffl




THE
YOUTHFUL WANDERER;
OR
AN ACCOUNT OF A TOUR THROUGH ENGLAND, FRANCE, BELGIUM, HOLLAND,
GERMANY AND THE RHINE,
SWITZERLAND, ITALY,
AND EGYPT,
ADAPTED TO THE WANTS OF YOUNG AMERICANS TAKING THEIR
FIRST GLIMPSES AT THE OLD WORLD.
BY
GEO. H. HEFFNER.
OREFIELD:
A. S. HEFFNER, PRINTER.
1876.




Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1876, by
GEO. H. HEFFNER,
In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.




PREFACE.
It had been fashionable among the ancients, for
men of learning to visit distant countries and improve their education by traveling, after they had
completed their various courses of study in literary
institutions, and the same custom still prevails in
Europe at the present time; but in our country,
comparatively few avail themselves of this finishing course.' It is not strange that this should have
been so with a people who are separated from the
rest of the world by such wide oceans as we are,
which could, up to a comparatively recent period,
only have been crossed at a sacrifice of much time
and money, and at the risk of loosing either life or
health.  These difficulties have been greatly reduced by the application of steam-power to navigation, and the time has come when an American
can make the tour of Europe with but little more
expenditure of time and money than it costs even
a native of Europe to do it.
One of my principal objects in writing this book
is to encourage others to make similar tours. We
would have plenty of books no traveling, if some of
them  did represent the readers in the humbler
spheres of life, but the general impression in
America is that no one can see Europe to any satisfaction in less than a year or two and with an out



PREFACE.
lay of from a thousand to two thousand dollars.
This is a great mistake. If one travels for pleasure
mainly, it will certainly require a great deal of
time and money, but a hard-working student can
do much in a few months. Permit me to say, that
one will see and experience more in two weeks
abroad, than many a learned man in America expects could be seen in a year. I sometimes give
the particulars of sights and adventures in detail,
that the reader may take an example of my experience, for any tour he may propose to make.
The times devoted to different places are given that
he may form an estimate of the comparative importance of different places.
Statistics form a leading feature of this work,
and these have been gathered and compiled with
special reference to the wants of the student. Many
an American scholar studies the geography and
history of foreign countries at a great disadvantage,
because he can not obtain a general idea of the institutions of Europe, unless he reads half a dozen
works on the subject. To do this he has not the
time. This work gives, in the compass of a single
volume, a general idea of all the most striking
features of the manners, customs and institutions
of the people of some eight different nations speaking as many different languages and dialects.
As the sights that one sees abroad are so radically
different from what we are accustomed to see at
home, I feel pained whenever I think of describ



PREFACE.                   7
ing them  to any one. If you would know the
nature of my perplexity, then go to Washington
and see the stately magnificence of our National
Capitol there, and then go and describe what you
have seen to one who has never seen a larger building than his village church; or go and see the Centennial Exposition at Philadelphia, and then tell
your neighbor who has never seen anything greater
than a county fair, how, what he has seen compares with the WTorld's Fair! I too am proud of
our country, (not so much for what she now is, but
because she promises to become the greatest nation
that ever existed), but it must be confessed, that
America presents little in the sphere of architecture
that bears comparison with the castles, palaces and
churches of the Old World. The Capitol at Washington, erected at the cost of twelve and a half millions, the City Hall of Baltimore, perhaps more
beautiful but less magnificent, and other edifices
that have been erected of late, are structures of
which we may justly be proud; but let us take the
buildings of the "Centennial Exposition" for a
standard and compare them with some of those in
Europe. The total expenses incurred in erecting
all the exposition buildings, and preparing the
grounds, &c., with all thQ contingent expenses, is
less than ten million. But St. Peter's in Rome cost
nine times, and the palace and pleasure-garden of
Versailles twenty times as much as this! It is
safe to assert, that if a young man had but two hun



8                 PREFACE.
dred dollars with six weeks of time at his command,
and would spend it in seeing London and Paris, he
could never feel sorry for it.  Young student go east.




CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
PAGE.
Leaving Home,....        17
New York,......                      19
Brooklyn-Plymouth Church,...  20
Extracts from Henry Ward Beecher's Sermon, 20
Greenwood Cemetery,..                       22
Barnum's Hippodrome,..                   26
On Board the " Manhattan'..  27
Setting Sail —The Parting Hour,... 28
Sea-Sickness,.....29
A Shoal of Whales,....      30
Approaching Queenstown-The First Sight of
Land,.....     32
Coasting Ireland and Wales,..           34
Personal Incidents-Life-boat, No. 5,.     36
CHAPTER II.
Liverpool,......            38
The Mystical Letters " IHS" mean Jesus,. 39
The Wonderful Clock of Jacob Lovelace,.  41
CHAPTER III.
Chester-Origin of the Name,..  45
The Rows or Second-Story Pavements,.     45
The Cathedral and St. John's,..  46
The Walls,......              47




10                 CONTENTS.
PAGE
Birmingham,..     49
Railroads in E urope,...                 52
CHAPTER IV.
Stratford-on-Avon-Shakespeare's Birthplace,  55
Shottery-Anne Hathaway's Home,.. 57
Shakespeare's Grave,.....    60
CHAPTER V.
Warwick-St. Mary's....     62
Kenilworth Castle,....   64
Approaching Coventry —" The Lover's Promenade,"......          65
Coventry-Its Fine Churches,..            65
Warwick Castle,......66
Oxford-The Great University,..             67
CHAPTER VI.
LONDON.
Its Underground Railroads,...71
Territory, Population and Other Statistics,. 72
St. Paul's Cathedral,.... 76
Crystal Palace,.....       77
The Houses of Parliament,....  79
Westminster Abbey,....       85
Ensigns Arorial, &c.,....    87
Sunday in London,...       88
Hyde Park-Radical Meeting,...   89
The Tower of London,.... 96




CONTENTS.                     11
PAGE.
CHAPTER VII.
LONDON TO PARIS.
Strait of Dover,......   101
Calais,........103
CHAPTER VIII.
PARIS.
Its Railway Stations,..... 107
Lack of Delicacy in Many of the Social Habits and
Institutions Among the People of Warm Countries,........  108
The Boulevards, Rues, &c.,.... 110
Arcades and Passages,......114
Palais Royal,.....        117
Its Diamond Windows,..... 118'
The Cafe-A Characteristic Feature of Modern
Civilization,...                  118
Champs Elysees,.... 125
Palais de l'Industrie or the Exhibition Buildings,........ 127
Place de la Concorde and the Obelisk of Luxor, 127
Garden of the Tuileries,....129
The Arch of Triumph,....130
Other Triumphal Arches,.... 132
The Tomb of Napoleon I.,...            133
Artesian Wells,......135
Notre Dame Cathedral,....   135
The Pantheon,......      136
The Madeleine,......138
The Louvre,....  139




12                CONTENTS.
PAGE.
Theaters and Operas,..... 139
At a Ball,....   143
Incidents,..... 144
CHAPTER IX.
St. Cloud,.......147
The Palace at Versailles,....150
The Pleasure-Garden,.....  150
CHAPTER X.
Leaving Paris,.....  157
Brussels,....... 161
The Cathedral,......163
Hotel de Ville,... 163
Antwerp,......       164
The Spirit of Revolution,...    166
Notre Dame Cathedral,...167
The Museum,...... 168
CHAPTER XI.
HOLLAND.
The Hague,......     173
Cloak-Rooms,.....        175
Utrecht,.......    177
CHAPTER XII.
Cologne,.....180
The Cathedral,......180
The Museum,......   183
Depths of Man's Degradation,... 186
Bonn,........ 188




CONTENTS.                     13
PAGE.
The Kreuzberg....... 189
The Drachenfels,.....  191
CHAPTER XIII.
Coblentz,.......193
Geological Laws,.... 194
On the Rhine,.    ~...194
Frankfort,......197
Darmstadt,   1.....198
Worms,.....200
CHAPTER XIV.
THE PALATINATE, (Die Pfalz).
Mannheim,...... 204
Neustadt,......        204
Heidelberg,.... 208
The Castle,.....        209
The Great Tun,...                   210
Stuttgart,....... 212
Strassburg,.......212
The Black Forest,..... 213
CHAPTER XV.
SWITZERLAND.
The Rigi,......214
The Giessbach Falls,..... 217
The Rhone Glacier.....   218
The Grimsel,......218
The Cathedral of Freiburg,...       220
Berne,....     221




14               CONTENTS.
PAGE.
CHAPTER XVI.
Geneva to Turin,...   223
Mont Cenis Tunnel,...    223
ITALY.
Its Fair Sky and Beautiful People,.. 224
Milan,...                 230
Venice,.....                  231
San Marco,.....   231
CHAPTER XVII.
Venice to Bologne,..       233
Florence,.                             2..  234
Pisa,..... 238
Going Southward,.... 240
CHAPTER XVIII.
ROME.
The Colosseum,..        244
The Roman Forum,... 245
The Site of the Ancient Capitol,..  246
"Twelve,"... 247
The Temple of Csesar,..          248
The Baths of Caracalla,...249
The Pyramid of Cestius,..  249
St. Peter's,....251
The Lateran,..  253
Santa Maria Maggiore,...       253
Museums,....  257
CHAPTER XIX.
ROME TO BRINDISI.
Ascent of Mount Vesuvius,.  262




CONTENTS.                    15
PAGE.
The Ruins of Pompeii,.                262
CHAPTER XX.
On the Mediterranean,..  264
Alexandria,..... 265
Cairo,....                       266
Wretchedness of the Poorer Classes,.     268
The Return Trip,....           271
Conclusion,....271
A; Subjects treated in a general way are distinguished by being rendered in italics, in this
table of contents.




m'IWO 9a I M  _ _    
f | mi i i tr  i St ^1 X r1 | g i t  i IT 1 Hi  I i tii   -.
THE KEYSTONE STATE NORMAL SCHOOL.




CHAPTER I.
LEAVING  HOME.
While engaged in making the preliminary ar'
ratigements for leaving soon after the "CommnencemIxeat. of the Keystone State Normal School (comii g off June 24th), information was received that
the "Manhattan," an old and well-tried steamer
of the Guion Line, would sail from New York for
Liverpool on the 22nd of June. She had been upon the ocean for nine years, and had acquired the
reputationof being "safe but slow."  AsI esteemed
life more precious than time, though either of them
once lost can never be recovered, I soon decided
to share my fate with her -by her, to be carried
safely to the " farther shore," or with her, to seek a
watery grave.
The idea of remaining for tile Commencement,
-was at once abandoned; short visits, abrupt farewells, and a hasty preparation for the pilgrimage,
were my portion for the few days still left me, and
Satturday, the 19th, was determined upon as the
day for leaving home.  It would be evidence
of gross ingratitude to forget the kind wishes,_ tender good-byes, and many other marks-of attention,
on the part of friends and acquaintances, which
characterized the parting hour. Both Literary Societies had passd resolutions to turn out, and on




18     KUTZTOWN TO NEW  YORK.
the ringing of the bell at 6:30 a. m., all assembled
in the Chapel, and addresses were delivered.
Half an hour later, we left in procession for the
depot, where we arrived in time to exchange our
last tokens of remembrance  cards, books, bouquets &c., and shake hands once more.
While the train was moving away, the benedictions and cheers of a hundred familiar voices rang
upon the air, and waving handkerchiefs caught the
echoes even from the distant cupola of the now
fast receding Normal School buildings. A number of torpedoes that had been placed under the
wheels of the locomotive, had already apprised us
that the train was in motion, and would soon hurry
us out of sight. During all this excitement of the
parting hour, which seemed to affect some so deeply, I was either looking into the future, or contemplating the present, rather, from an active than from
a passive stand-point; and, as a natural'consequence, remained quite tranquil and composed —my
feelings and emotions being at a lower ebb than
they could now be, if the occasion would repeat
itself. The idea of making a tour through Europe
and to the Orient, had been continually revolving
in my mind for many years; and now, that I saw
the prospect open of once realizing the happy
dreams of my childhood, and the schemes of early:
youth, I took no time for contemplating the
dangers of sea voyages or any of the other perils
of adventure.




MY FIRST VISIT TO NEW  YORK.  19
Before we came to Easton, I formed the acquaintance of a Swiss mother, who seemed much pleased
to find one that was about to visit her dear " Fatherland," where she had spent the sunny days of her
childhood. After giving me directions and letters
of introduction, she entreated me very earnestly
to visit her home and kin, and bring them  word
from her.
New York was reached at 12:10 p. m. As there
were but three days remaining for seeing the city,
I immediately began my visits to some of its principal points of interest. Having first engaged a
room at a hotel in the vicinity of the new PostOffice, I commenced to stroll about, and at 5:30 p.
m. entered Trinity Church. Its capacious interior
soon disclosed to me numerous architectural peculiarities, such as are characteristic of the English
parish churches or of cathedrals in general; and
which render old Trinity quite conspicuous among
her American sisters. A fee of twelve cents entitled me to an ascent of its lofty spire, which can
be made to the height of 304 (?) steps, or about 225
feet.
Sunday, June 20th. Rose at 4:30 a. m. and
yisited Central Park. This being an importune
time for seeing the gay and fashionable life of the
city, I contended myself with a walk to the Managerie, and returned in time to attend the forenoon
serv:ce of Plymouth Church, in Brooklyh.  I
reached the place before 9:00 o'clock, and formed




20              BROOKLYN.
the acquaintance of a young gentleman who- was
a great admirer of the Rev. Henry Ward Beecher,
and,, being an occasional visitor at this church,
knew how to get a seat in that congregation, which
generally closed its doors against the faces of hundreds, after every available seat was occupied. We
at once took our stand at the middle gate, and there
endured the pressure of the crowd for more than
half an hour before the doors opened. We were
the first two that entered, and running up stairs at
the..head of the dashing throng, succeeded in
making sure of a place in the audience. The
church has seating capacity for about 2,800 adults.
All the pews are rented to members of the congregation by the year, except the outer row of seats
along the three walls; but these are generally all
occupied in one or several minutes after the doors
open.
The choir files in at 10:25. A "voluntary" by
the organist at 10:30, and by the choir at 10:32,
during which time Mr. Beecher comes in, jerks his
hat behind a boquet stand, and takes his seat.
Leads in a prayer in so low a strain that he can
not. be understood at any remote place in the
audience. At 10:55 he baptizes:eight infants, whose
names are passed to him  on cards. Concludes
another prayer at 11:20 and aunounces his text,
""Christ and him crucified."  1 Cor. ii. 2
EXTRACTS FROM THE-SERMON.
" One of Christ's followers once said,'If all that




BROOKLYN.                   21
Christ said and did were written in books, the
world could not contain them.' This is an exageration, (a ripple of laughter dances over the congregation),
having a great meaning, however."  *  *  *  *
" David gives us only his intense life."  (The
audience smile). (11:35). The preacher becoming
dramatic in gesticulation and oratorical in delivery,
walks back and forth upon the elevated platform.
While describing the crosses which he saw yesterday, he becomes highly excited, swinging his arms
above his head. "Crosses everywhere.  All the
way up street; on every beauty's breast."  (Explosive laughter). "Some may have cost $500, others
possibly  $1,500; perhaps some cost $2,000."
(Claps his hands in excitement).      * * **  "Some
say'the church handed down Christianity'; but
I say Christianity kept the church alive. What
was it, that, in the Reformation, made blood such
a sweet manure for souls?"  (12:10 p. m.)  Pleads
earnestly for the weak and the erring. "A man
that has gone wrong, and has nobody to be sorry
for it, is lost; pity may save."  Sermon concluded
at 12:25. Prayer. Dismissal by singing.
Mr. Beecher's voice is so clear and powerful, that.
he can be readily understood in the most distant.
parts of the house. After leaving church, I went
up to Columbia Heights, the most aristocratic section of Brooklyn, where I enjoyed myself in contemplating the beautiful and magnificent buildings
which constitute the quiet and charming homes of




22       GREENWOOD CEMETERY.
those wealthy people living there. How partial
Heaven is to some. of her children! Thence I
found my way to Greenwood Cemetery, where I
spent the remainder of the day amid the tombs
and monuments of " the great city of the dead."
Guide books containing all the carriage roads and
foot-paths of that burial ground, are sold at or near
the gate. One of these I procured, and found it
was so perfect in the particulars, that I could readily
find the grave of any one of the many distinguished persons mentioned in the index, without
further assistance whatever. It is impossible here
to give an account of the many splendid tombs
and monuments erected there byloving hearts and
skillful hands, in memory of dear friends and
relatives that have "gone away". What multitudes of strange and curious designs meet the eye
here! Some few perhaps seem odd; but most of
them bear appropriate emblems, and convey sweet
thoughts and tender sentiments in behalf of those
"sleeping beneath the sod.'" What a place for
meditation!  How quiet, how solemn! No one
should visit New York without allotting at least
half a day to these holy grounds. How I wander
from grave to grave  Here I am struck with the
text of an impressive epitaph, and there I see the
delicate and elaborate workmanship of a skillful
master. Here my heart is touched by the sweet
simplicity of a simple slab bearing some touching
lines, there I stand in silent admiration before the




A MONUMENT TO SIX LOST AT SEA. 23
magnificent proportions of a towering monument,
or sit down to study the meaning of some obscure
design. A mere sketch of all that I saw there
would fill a volume, but I found one monument
which I cannot pass by without some notice. It
stands on Hilly Ridge, and was erected to the
memory of six "lost at sea, on board the steamer
"Arctic," Sept. 27th, 1854." These woids arrested
my attention, and a minute later, I had ascended
the domical summit of the hill, and stood'at the
foot of the high monument.  It has a square
granite base upon which stand four little red pillars of polished Russiah granite, supporting a
transversely arched canopy, with a high spire.
Under the canopy is represented the Ocean and the
shipwreck of the "Arctic."  The vessel is assailed
by a terrible storm, and fiercely tossed upon the
foaming waves! She has already sprung a leak,
and through the ugly gash admits a copious stream
of the fatal liquid, while the raging sea, like an
angry monster, is about to swallow her distined
prey I Down she goes, and among the many passengers on board, are
GRACE,
wife of Geo. F. Allen and daughter of James Brown,
born Aug. 25th, 1821.
HERBERT,
iJfant child of Geo. F. and Grace Allen,
born Sept. 28th, 1853.




24 A MONUMENT TO SIX LOST AT SEA.
WILLIAM B.,
son of James Brown,
born April 23rd, 1825.
CLARA,
wife of Wm. B. Brown and daughter of Chas. loulton,
born June 30th, 1830.
CLARA ALICE JANE,
daughier of William B. and Clara Broen,
born Aug. 30th, 1852.
MARIA MILLER,
daughter of James BBron,
born Sept. 30th, 1833.
What a sad story! As the shipwreck occurred
in the fall, it is highly probable that the party was
homeward bound,,and, had better fortune been
with them, might in avery few days have again
been safe and happy in their respective homes, relating stories of their strange but pleasant experiences in the Old World. How changed the
tale! How their friends must have been looking
and waiting for the "Arctic!  One line told the
whole story, and perhaps all that was ever heard of
them,  The " Arctic" is wrecked!"
Not far away, on the crown of Locust Hill,
sleeps Horace Greeley, America's great journalist
and political economist. At the head of his grave
stands a temporal memorial stone in the form of a
simple  marble slab, bearing  the  inscription,
"Horace Greeley, born February 3rd, 1811; died
November 29th, 1872."  I lft the Cemetery at




BROOKLYN.                   25
7:45 p. m., and returned to my quarters in NeW
York.
Monday, June 21st. Having procured passag
with the "Manhattan," which was to sail on thi
morrow, I straightway went to Pier No. 46, North
River, to take a look at her! At 12:45 p. m. I stood
in the third story of A. T. Stewart's great dry
goods establishment, perhaps the largest of the
kind in the world. It is six stories high, anil
covers nearly two acres of ground. My next ptoit
of destination was Brooklyn Court-House.  The
afternoon session opened at 2:00 o'clock, but I did
not reach the place until half an hour later. The
court-room was crowded as usual, and many had
been turned away, who stood in knots about th:
halls and portico, holding the posts, and discussing
politics and church matters. I entered hastily,
like one behind time and in a hurry, and inquired
where the court-room was.   It is crowded to overflowing, you can not enter," was the reply; but I
went for the reporter's door. A few raps, and it
was opened. I offered my card and asked for a.
place in the audience as a reporter. The reply
was that the room was already jammed full. But
I retained my position in the door all the same T
"What paper do you represent?" asked the doorkeeper. "I am  a correspondent of the Nationatl
Educator" was my response; whereupon he bid me
step in. The court-room  was a small one for the
occasion, affording seats for about 400 on the floors




26               NEW YORK.
sand for 125 more in the gallery. Some twentyfive or thirty ladies were scattered through the.audience. Mr. Beech, Tilton's senior lawyer, was.summing up his closing speech. Tilton and Fullerton  sat immediately  behind  him, but Mr.
Beecher was not in court. Toward the close of,the session there was a kind of "clash of arms"
among the opposing lawyers. Fullerton repeated
-the challenge previously made by Beech, offering
to prove that corrupt influences were made to bear.upon the jury. The Judge appointed a time forihearing the complaint, and adjourned the Court.
BARNUM'S HIPPODROME
was visited in the evening, where I saw for the first
time on a grand scale, the' charming features of the
European "cafe" (pronounced ca'fa').  Here are
combined the attractions of the pleasure garden or
public square, with the ornaments and graces of
the ball-room  and the opera. It is a magnificent
parlor abounding in trees, fountains, statuary and
rustic retreats. Gilmore's large band of seventyfive to a hundred pieces, occupying an elevated
~platform  in the. centre, render excellent music..Fifteen hundred to two thousand gas jets, eveloped
by globes of different colors (red, white, blue, yellow and green) and blazing from the curves of imizense arches, spanning the Hippodrome in different directions, illuminate the entire building
with the brilliancy of the noon-day sun. To the
right of the entrance is an artificial water-fall about




NEW  YORK.                   27
thirty feet in height.  Two stationary engines sup-.plythe water, elevating 1,800 gallons per minute,
which issues from  beneath the arched roof of a
subterranean cavern, and dcashing down in broken
sheets over a series of cascades and rapids, plunges
into a basin below. From this basin it flows away
into tanks in an other building, where four to five
tons of ice are consumed daily to keep it at a low
temperature, so that the vapor and breeze produced
by —this ice-water, at the foot of the cataract,'refreshes the air and keeps it cool and pleasant during the warm  summer evenings. The admittance
is fifty cents, and 5,000 to 10,000 persons enter
every night, during the height of the season. Here
meets "youth and beauty," and the wealth, gayety
and fashion of New York is well represented.
Tuesday, June 22d. I spent the morning in
writing farewell letters, and making the final preparations for leaving. At one o'clock I went on
board the "Manhattan," which was still quite
empty.  In order to have something to do by-which
to while away the slow dull hours yet remaining,
I commenced writing a letter. None of my friends
or acquaintances being with me, I bid all my farewells by note. But such writing! Though.the
vessel was locked to the pier by immense cables,
still she was anything but steady. As passengers
began to multiply, acquaintances were formed.
By and by the stewart came around, and assigned
to us our berths. Ship government is monarchic




28             SETTING SAIL.
in form. The officers have almost absolute ailthority, and the passengers, like bashful pupils, do
their best to learn the new rules and regulations
and adapt their conduct to them, as soon as possible, so that nobody may find occasion for making
observations or passing remarks. All these thiing
remind one very much of a first day at school. As
THE PARTING HOUR
-approaches, large numbers of the friends and relatives of some of our passengers, came upon deck
to bid good-by. Some cried, others laughed, and
iany more tried to laugh. Some that seemed to
relish repetition, or were carried away by enthusiasm and the excitement of the hour, shook hands
over. and over again with the same person.  At
3:00 o'clock p. m., the gangway was lowered and
the cables were removed. A shock, a boom, and
the vessel swung away and glided into the river!
The die was cast, and our fate was sealed. Shouts
iand huzzas rent the air, as the steamer skimmed
proudly over the waves, while clouds of handkerchiefs, on deck and upon the receding shore, waved
in the air as long as we could see each other.
Down, down the river glided the steady " Manhattan," and our thoughts began to run in new channels.  "Good-by! dear, sweet America," thought
we a hundred times, while we watched the retreating shores; perhaps our thoughts were whispers!
Europe with its innumerable attractions, its Alps,
Appennites and Vesuvius, its castles,  palaces




ON BOARD THE " MANHATTAN."  29
walled towns, fine cities, great battle fields, ancient
ruins and. a thousand other milestones of civilization, lay before us; but a wide Ocean, and all the
danger and perils of a long sea voyage lay between
us and that other-longed for shore.
The question whether we would ever realize the
pleasure of a visit to the Old World, was now reduced: to the alternatives of success, or faiure by ac-,det or disease.
SEA-SICKNESS.
I. had labored under the erroneous impression
that-sea-sickness was bred of fear ind terror, and
would attack only women (of both sexes) and
children of tender minds and frail constitutions.
But, when the waves commenced to roll higher,
and the ship began a ceaseless rocking, which was
in direct opposition to the wants and comfort of
iiy.system, as all manner of swinging ever was,
I began to have fears that it was not fright, but
sringing, that made people sick at sea. The inner
max  threatened to rebel, and I made my calculatiQns how much higher the billows might swell,
before stomachs would be apt to revolt. Wesailed
out of sight of the land before dusk, by which
time, however, numbers of ill-mannered stomachs
had given evidence of their bad humor. Though
I nodded but once or twice to old Neptune, during
the entire voyage, still  suffered much during tlie
fir.t five days, from the pressure of intense dizzinas nd he.adache, occasioned by the incessant rock



30   ON BOARD THE" MANHATTAN."
ing of our vessel upon the restless waves.  We had
a very fine passage, as the sailors would say, but it
was far from being as fine as I had always fancied
fine sea voyages would be. The rocking of the
ship would never be less than about two feet up
and down in its width of thirty feet. When the
winds blew hard and the waves rolled high, it
swung'some. twenty or:twenty-five feet up and:
down at its bow and at the stern.- The highest
waves that we saw in our outward passage were
probably from twelve to eighteen feet. That the
rocking or swinging of the ship, is the one andonly cause of sea-sickness, may admit of a question; but that it is the principal cause, there can be
little doubt. My observations and experiences in
five or six voyages (long and short) did not point
to any other cause. As the sea air is generally regarded as more salubrious and healthier than that
on land, it can certainly not be a cause of sea-sickness. Fright and terror, in a timid person might
perhaps aggravate the disease in few instances,
though it seems doubtful, to say the least. When
the sea is calm and smooth, everybody feels well,
even if the. vessel swims in the middle of the
Ocean; but let a storm  come:on, and the number'
of sick will increase in proportion to its violence.
WHALES.
On the second day of our voyage, in the afternoon at about 4:00 o'clock, we came across a shoal
of whales. There must have been two or three




ON BOARD THE "M IANHATTAN."   31
dozen of them. They apparently avoided our
ship, as only a few made their appearance veryclose by, though we sailed through the midst of
them. They swam about leisurely near the surface, betraying their whereabouts frequently by
spouting; but occasionally they would rise considerably above the surface of the water, and expose large portions of their bodies to our view.
The excitement occasioned among all on board, by
the appearance of so many of these terrible monsters, greatly quickened our dull spirits, and tended
much to alleviate the lonesomeness occasioned by
the monotony of the sea voyage.
No one who has never experienced it, can form an
idea of how the mind is depressed and benumbed
by the monotony of sea life. The nights drag
along so slowly, and the day —they seem to have
no end. One will often loose his "bearings" so
completely, that he knows neither what day of the
week it is, nor whether it is-forenoon or afternoon.
Without keeping a diary or. record of some kind, it
would be difficult for many to keep a sure run of
the. date. Ordinarily, one sits down early in the
morning to wait for the evening to draw by, and often'
it happens, when-it seems to him that he has waited
the length of three days on the land, he is mortified by the announcement that it is yet far from
being noon! An eternal present seems to swallow
up both the past and the future. After a week or
two of such -weary waiting, one feels as if he had




83     UPON TH-EATLANTIC OCEAN.
forgotten almost every thing that happened:before
the day of his leaving home. I remarked one day
to a company of passengers on deck, that. Icould
aCcely recall any thing that had happened in the
p;t; indeed, it required quite an effort to remember that I had ever been in America, or anywhere
eae- except on the old "Manhattan" in an everltimg voyage. "Yes," observed one of the comp7wy, "and'I heard a fellow say yesterday that
tiwe seemed so long to him, that he had really for&gten how many children he had." There is little
doubt, that if a ship-load of passengers could be
suddenly and unexpectedly landed upon the grassy
slope of a verdant hill-side; many would under
the momentary impulse of overwhelming pleasure,
kiss the dear earth, as Columbus did on landing at
San Salvador, if, indeed, extreme joy did not impel
them to make themselves ridiculous by imitating
old Nebuchadnezzar, in commmencing to graze
on the herbage!  But the longest day must have.atp end, and so have sea voyages.
THE- FIRST SIGHT OF LAND.
On Saturday morning, July 3rd, everybody came
upon deck in hope of seeing land. A report wasoon circulated, that the sailors with their telesopes, had already seen the mountains of Ireland.
Those passengers that had telescopes or opera
glsses soon brought them upon deck. Some said
they aw the land, but others using the same glasses
could see nothing. This: created i pleasant excite



UPON THE ATLANTIC OCEAN.                33
mnent with but little satisfaction, however, except
a lively hope of soon seeing terra firma again. At:
about 8:00 o'clock (4:00 o'clock Penna. time) it was
believed by the passengers generally, that land
was really in sight. When I first saw the outline
of the mountains through the mist and clouds that.hung near the horizon, it stood out so clear and
bold that I felt surprised at not having been able',to see it long before, as some others had. There
were some who could not see the land till an hour
afterwards. The inexperienced must first learn,
before they will. know  how to see land.  The
first light-house (one sixty miles from  Queenstown) came into view at 9:35.a. m. Wre passed it
at 10:00 o'clock.
White sea-gulls come one or two days'journey
into the sea to meet the ships, and follow them for
food. These had been increasing from  an early
hour, and amounted to about fifty in number in
the afternoon. It seems as if their wings would
never tire. All day long they fly after the ships,
sometimes even coming over the deck near the
passengers.  
A great excitement prevailed on board during
the whole,day, because a number of our passengers were-to leave us -there.. While these were
getting ready to depart, and-bidding good-by to
their many friends on board, many of us were
busy writing letters to our friends and relatives in
America. Those letters were taken on to Queens



34   APPROACHING QUEENSTOWN.
town, there mailed, and brought the first news of
our safe passage across the Atlantic. We were
still a day from  Liverpool, but it was a day of
pleasure. The dangers )f,the deep were now forgotten, the strong winds of.the Ocean had abated,
and health and happiness overall on board prevailed. Our course continued along 
THE COASTS OF IRELAND AND WALES.
At about 4:00 o'clock p. m., the little steamer
" Lord Lyons" came up to our ship to fetch the
passengers that were bound for Queenstown. A
company of fruit-women came on board with
gooseberries, raspberries and  many other good
things with which they fed our famished passengers. These were our first fruits of the season, and
were highly relished by all.
The vegetation of Ireland is remarkable for its
fresh, green color. We all agreed that we had
never seen such a rich green color before. "Emerald Isle" (the green island) is a very appropriate
name for Ireland. We Saw many light-houses and
beautiful castles hanging upon the rocky shores or
standing proudly upon commanding eminences.
Steamers keep so closeto the'shore in;sailing from
Queenstown to Liverpool, that the land is nearly
always in sight.  On Sunday morning, July 4th,
the charming fields of Ireland had been exchanged
for the lofty mountains of Wales. We passed
Holyhead at 9:00 o'clock, and Liverpool came into
sight at 1:30 p. m. An hour later we came so near




ST. GEORGE'S CHANNEL.               35
to the coast that the individual trees of a shady
wood upon the shores could readily be discerned.
By 3:25 we had entered the Mersey, and "halfspeed" was ordered. Five minutes later, we anchored and were touched by a tender. Here we
learned what custom-house officers are for. Every
trunk, carpet-bag and satchel had to be opened for
them, and their busy hands were run all through
our wardrobes. In order to detect any smuggling
that might be attempted, they will examine every
trunk or chest, &c., from top to bottom. They did
not search our pockets, however, but short of that.
they are required to do most anything disagreeable
to the traveler. As it was Sunday, all the shipping was tessellated with the colors of every nation. It is a grand sight to see acres upon acres of
ships so profusely decorated with flags that it
seems as if the sky was ablaze with their brilliant
colors. Our own" Manhattan" sailed proudly into
port with twenty-six flags streaming from her
mast-head and rigging.
After we had passed muster, we passed over a
kind of bridge or gangway from the " Manhattan"
into a little steamer that had come down the river
to fetch us. How glad we were to leave the good
old ship, and bound into the arms of another that
promised to take us ashore in a very few minutes!
It was a glorious time! We had come to regard
the " Manhattan" as a prison-house, from  which
we had long desired to take our leave, if we only




36       LANDING AT LIVERPOOL.
could. But now that the parting hour had come,
how changed our feelings! As the little boat sailed
away, we felt sorry to leave her, and commenced
to call her by pet names. " Good-by dear " Manhattan," many thanks to you for carrying us so
safely across the deep wide sea," cried many of us;
while others gave the customary three cheers and
waved their hats. Though we left her empty behind-no friends, and no acquaintances remaining
there- still we continued to wave our handkerchiefs
at her so long as we could see her, and have ever
since remembered her as the noblest of all the
ships that was in harbor that day. Her colors
seemed the-brightest, and a hundred happy passengers separated that hour that will never cease
to sing her praises. Permit me, kind reader, to
add one line more, and in that line make mentiion of
LIFE-BOAT, NO. 5.
-You may not be able to understand it, or to appreciate how a small party of our passengers came
to regard her as almost a sacred thing, but there
are a few that know the spell, and who will ever
bless the page that tells the tale! Thither we went
when the winds blew harder and the waves rolled
higher, when our heads became heavier and our
steps unsteady! She hung at or near the center of
the ship, where there was the least:rocking or
swinging of all places in the whole vessel. During day-time we lay down beneath her shade, and




LANDING AT LIVERPOOL.               37
at night, we would sit by her side relating to each
other our feelings and experiences, &c. When seasickness had left our company, we agreed upon
that place as our general rendezvous by day and
by night, for the remainder of the voyage. There
we spent our days and there we met every night!
If our sleep was interrupted by a storm at the
midnight hour, thither would we go for relief! A
thousand recollections gather around that boat, and
bind our hearts together there, as with so many
cords; because our -hearts meet there in fond remembrance, therefore will we never forget the
place.
STEPPING ASHORE.
I had bid adieu to all my acquaintances before
leaving the steamer, and consequently went ashore
quite by myself. I did not experience that piercing thrill through my system as I had expected to,
on touching the firm earth again; for we had seen
the shore so long before we could land, that all its
novelty had disappeared.




CHAPTER II.
LIVERPOOL.
Traveling-bag in hand, which contained my entire wardrobe, I now went in search of an hotel.
The " Angel Hotel" was soon pointed out to me,
and on entering it, I learned that several of my
fellow-passengers had already taken rooms there.
It is entirely under the control of ladies, being
managed by a proprietress and female clerks. The
house is an excellent one, and the accommodations
are first-class. It bears a very appropriate name.
After partaking of a hardy supper, I walked out.
to "take a look at Europe!" At 6:45 p. m., I
entered St. Peter's Church, and was conducted to
a pew. Here, as elsewhere in Europe, the young
and the old of both sexes occupy the same seat together. One of the little boys of the family occupying the same pew with me, gave me a hymnbook. A part of the exercises consisted in chanting psalms. The eagle lectant and the Bible characters represented in the stained glass of the windows, soon enlisted my-attention, but the meaning
of having two birds perched upon a high stand in
the middle of the church, I could not unfold, nor
was there any one about that could tell me. The
next day I saw the sam n bird beside a noble female
form in the museum.  "What bird is that?" said




LIVERPOOL.                   39
I to a; by-stander.  That figure," said he, " is the
emblem  of Liverpool, and the bird is the liver,
which abounded'dowi in the pools, and after which
the place was first named."
St. Luke's was visited after service. The chorister seemed much pleased to meet an American,
and showed me every mark of attention.  When
asked whether all the churches of Liverpool had
their chancels in the east ends, he answered in the
affirmative.  I afterwards found this to be true all
over Europe. The dead are buried everywhere so
as to face the rising sun.
Around St. John's the memorial slabs lie flat
upon the graves. IHS, with a cross over the H, is
engraved upon the tombstones of the Catholics.
These same letters IHS: equivalent to JES or
JESUS, areto be seen.in almost every church and
chapel in all Christian;'Europe.  Upon goblets,
chrismatories and crosses in the churches they are
generally written in gold; while myriads of crosses
on headstones in the graveyards bear the same
mystical letters. Various other interpretations are
given to them  by different writers, but every explanation except the one above given, seems farfetched and of doubtful origin, to say the least.
In summer, the sun sets after 8:00 o'clock in the
latitude of Liverpool. I saw some twilight after
10:00 o'clock. The early dawn becomes visible before 2:00 o'clock in the morning, and he who wants
to see the sun rise, must content himself with a




40               LIVERPOOL.
short night. The Exchange is one of the most
elegant buildings of its class in  Europe.  St.
George's Hall contains the largest organ in England. In front of it are the Colossal Lions and
the Equestion Statue of Prince Albert.  Britania
(England's crest) which surmounts the dome of
the Town Hall, and the Wellington Statue, both
face south.
I had expected to see people dressed differently
in Liverpool from what is customary in AmericaIn this and a dozen other anticipations I was utterly disappointed. Thus I was surprised at every
step, because I was not surprised.
It was a scource of great grief to me that I could
not indulge in refreshments -on Sunday evening.
A passenger after landing, is much like a patient'
after the fever has left him, he is hungry all the.
time. I had some American silver in my pocket,,
which I repeatedly offered to exchange for cakes,
fruits and refreshments,'at the numerous stores.
and stands which I passed, but no one was willing
to invest in my stock of change. Thus I had to
suffer both from hunger and thirst, because I did
not have the right kind of money. On Monday
I drew my check in English currency, and bought
a suitable purse; but I was very awkward for a
few days at counting money. England has the
oddest and most irregular money table that I found
from there to Egypt, except those of Holland and
Germany. Many of the coins are old and purse



THE MUSEUM.                  41.
worn, so that it is impossible to decipher either the
image or the superscription (Matt. xxII. 20), consequently the value must be guessed by their size.
I spent a great part qf the day in the Museum.,
It contains a large and well classified collection of
natural history, of objects of ancient and medieval
art, of ancient manuscripts, of coins, of pictures,
sculpture, &c. Saw the horns of a South African
ox, each of which was about four feet long and
five or six inches thick.
THE WONDERFUL CLOCK OF JACOB LOVELACE.
In the second story of the building stands a
magnificent clock, weighing half a ton. Its case
is about five feet long by three feet wide, and ten
feet high.. Upon its face are seven hands. It is a
very old and complicated machine, and near it in:
a frame 1 found the following description:  "It is
the work of Jacob Lovelace, of Exeter, ornamented
with Oriental figures and finely executed paintings, guilted by fretworks. The mhovements are
1st —A moving Panorama descriptive of Day and
Night, Day is beautifully represented by Apollo in
his Car, drawn by four spirited coursers, accompanied by the twelve hours, and Diana in her Car,
drawn by stags attended by twelve hours, represents Night. 2nd-Two Guilt Figures in Roman
costume who turn their heads and salute with
their swords as the' Panorama revolves; and also
move in the same manner while the bells are ringing. 3rd —A Perpectual Almanac showing the dayr




42               LIVERPOOL.
of the month on a semi-circular plate, the Index
returning to the first day of the month on the close
of each month, without. alteration even in leap
years, regulated only once in 130 years. 4th-A
Circle, the Index of which shows the day of the
week with its appropriate planet. 5th-A Perpetual Almanac showing the days of the Month
Weekly and the Equation of time. 6th-A Circle
showing the leap year, the Index revolving once
in four years. 7th-A Time Piece that strikes the
hours and chimes the quarters, on the face of
which the whole of the twenty-four hours (twelve
day and twelve night) are shown and regulated;
within this circle the sun is seen in his course,
with the time of rising and setting by an Horison
receding or advancing as the days lengthen and
shorten, and under is seen the moon showing her
different quarters, phases, age, &c. 8th-Two female figures, one on each side of the Dial Plate,
representing Fame and Terpsichore, who move in
time when the organ plays. 9th-A Movement
regulating the Clock as a repeater to strike or be
silent. 10th-Saturn, the God of Time, who beats
in movement while the organ plays. 11th-A
circle of the face shows the names of eight celebrated tunes played by the organ in the interior of
the cabinet every four hours.  12th-A  Belfry
with six ringers, who ring a merry peal ad libitum;
the interior of this part of the cabinet is ornamented with beautiful paintings, representing some




THE MUSEUI.                 43:
of the principal ancient Buildings of the city of
Exeter.  13th-Connected with the organ there is
a Bird Organ, which plays when required. This
unrivaled piece of mechanism was perfectly cleaned
and repaired by TV. Frost, of:Exeter, a self-taught
artist. Jacob Lovelace, the maker, ended his days
in great poverty in Exeter, at the age of sixty
years, having been thirty-four years in completing
it. This museum also contains glass of the Roman
period-A. D. 100-500. The best specimens are a
little greenish, but quite clear. One of the Egyptianmummies is wrapped up by a bandage of cloth;
that was woven 3,000 years ago. It is still in a
good state of preservation.
Tuesday, July 6th. The Sultan of Zanzibar, who
was on a tour of inspection, started from the Northwestern Hotel at about 10:00 o'clock to drive out
to the docks. He was accompanied by two natives
from his own country, and the mayor and thirteen
British cavaliers. The appearance, in Liveripool,
of this South African dignitary, created a considerable sensation.




CHAPTER III.
CHESTER.
At 10:45 I left Liverpool for Chester.  Edge Mill
Tunnel, which is about a mile or a mile and a quarter in length, was passed in five minutes.  Grain
ripens from one to two months later here, than in'
Pennsylvania.  The farmers were busy making
hay, and the wheat still retained a dark green
color.  Harvesting is done in August and September.  Wheat, rye, barley and potatoes axe the.
staple products.  No corn is cultivated in northern
England. Wood is so scarce and dear in Great
Britain, as well as upon the continent, that the
farmers can not afford to build rail-fences. Hedgefences, walls and ditches, thereforetake their places
in every European country.  All this is new to the
American when he first comes to the Old World.
Pass some fields of clover still in bloom. See men
mow with the same " Germnan" scythes that we use
in America.  We reached Chester before noon.
This is one of the oldest cities, if not the oldest in
the country.  Here one sees the England of his
dreams, the England he so long desired to see, and
which now presents to his gaze, as it were in a
focus, both the monuments and the rubbish of
many ages. It was once a great military station of
the Romans in Britain, who called it the City of




CHESTER.                     45
Legions.  King AEthelfrith reduced it to ruins in
the year 607, and it remained "a waste chester"
(a waste castra or fortification) for three centuries.
The Danes made its walls a stronghold against
Alfred and Aithelred, and the Lady of the Mercians, who was the daughter of Alfred and the
wife of 2Ethelred, recognized the importance of
the place, and built it up again. It was the last
city in England to hold out against William  the
Conqueror.  During the Civil Wars the city adhered to the royal cause, and was besieged and
taken by the Parliamentary forces in 1645.  The
Phoenix Tower bears the incription:  KIinzg Charles
stood on this tower September 24, 1645, and saw his
army defeated mo Rowton Moor.
The Rows are a very curious feature of the two
principal streets running at right angles to each
other. Besides the ordinary walks or pavements
of these streets, there is a continuous covered gallery through the front of the second story.  Some
one has said, " Great is the puzzle of the stranger
as to whether the roadway is down in the cellar,
or he is upstairs on the landing, or the house has
turned outside of the window."  On this "upstairs street," as some call it, are situated all the
first-class shops, the others being in the lower story
on a level with the road. Picture to yourself a
row of houses having porches in the second story
but not in the first, and you have a correct idea of
the Rows of Chester. To cqmpare them  to the




46                CHESTER.
Arcades of Rue de Rivoli in Paris, is a mistake, as
they do not resemble those more, than a porch over
a pavement resembles one in the second story.
The Cathedral is a grand old church. It was
built in the latter part of the twelfth and the beginning of the thirteenth centuries, upon the same
site where two of its predecessors had already
Oruibled into decay. "St. John's Church is even
more ancient than the Cathedral, having been,
built in the eleventh century. I shall never forget its weather-beaten walls and its mossy roof.
In many places, the thickness of the walls is
greatly reduced by the rain and hail that have
washed and beaten against it so long. In my
rambles through Chester I had the good fortune of
meeting and forming the acquaintance of an Irish
Catholic Priest and a wine merchant from Wolver —
hampton, two intelligent and amiable gentlemen,
who taught me much about those curious relics
still found in heaps among the ruins of old Chester. At about 2:00 o'clock we stood upon the high
square tower of St. John's (thirty-five feet each
side at the top) amidst the elderberries and grass
whichflourish at that giddy height. Looking at
the town from this-elevation,- one gets no idea of
its unique features, as the numerous slate-roofs give
it the appearance -of a modern town...The descent
was made with difficulty, and even attended with
some danger, for the long wooden stairs or ladders
are becoming shaky and a break of one of its




CHESTER.                    47
steps might precepitate one from such a height
that instant death was the most desirable alternative. But who would not become bold, or even
sometimes more that, amid such surroundings!
When one says we can't get there, another is sure
to declare that we must get there! " What! would
you come so far to see antiquity, and then count
your steps how near you would approach her?"Eight bells constitute the peal in this venerable'ld
tower. Near by, stand the ivy-clad and mosscovered ruins of portions of the sacred edifices that
date back, even to the earlier ages of the Christian
era, and from  among the dust and rubbish are
picked up the broken images of hideous-looking
idols that were the ornaments (?) of the temples
once standing there. We found a large collection
of those ghastly-looking idols piled away in the
crypt of the church.  Whether the emblems-of
Druid, or Christian worship, these " images cut out
ofstone" evidently represent an age, in which the
heart was. subdued by superstitious fear rather
than by  "love." 
The Walls merit especial attention.  They still
surround the city completely, and form, in a certain' ense, the proudest and  most admirable
promenade that the world affords anywhere. From
it are obtained the best views of the Cathedral and
of the country around.  The ascent to it is made
by a flight of steps on the north side of the.Eastgate.  A ditch or canal about twenty-five feet wide,




48                CHESTER.
runs all around the wall and used to render the
battering of the wall a matter of extreme difficulty
before the invention of powder and the introduction of fire-arms.- The pavement, on top of the
wall, is four and a half-to six feet wide, and skirted
on both sides by thinner walls; that on the outside being about four or five feet high. From behind this wall the soldiers would hurl spears,
javelins, &c., at the attacking enemy, and keep
them  in check. How things have changed since
that time! Now this walk forms the peaceful and
delightful promenade of the private citizens. -Here
meet the young and the gay, fashion displays its
gaudiest colors, and lovers take their " moonlight
strolls."
Such is the use now made of the Walls of Chester! America has no walled cities; Europe has
but few without walls. In the early history of
Europe, every town even had its walls. In many
places where the walls have almost disappeared,
there are still remaining the gates of the city. At
those points the walls were made doubly strong,
and high and impregnable towers built over them,
in which were Stationied strong guards " to defend
the gates."  Then no stranger could enter without
some kind of "pass" from recognized authorities.
Did not the system of " pass-ports" which has been
handed down to our day, but which seems to be
falling into disuse even in Europe, have its origin
in this way?  At 5:40 I left Chester for Birming



CHESTER TO BIRMINGHAM.            49
ham. On our way we passed Crewe, one of the
great railroad centers of England. At this station
five hundred trains pass each other every twentyfour hours.
We arrived at Birmingham at 8:45 p. m. Between Wolverhampton and Birmingham lies the
great ore and manufacturing district of England.
Ore-beds and smoke-stacks cover all the area some
thirty miles long and sixteen miles wide, except
that occupied by the miserable cottages (some of
them mere hovels) of the laborers. Looking at
this immense area from the cars, it presents the
appearance of one continuous town. No wonder
that England can accommodate a population of
some twenty odd millions on an area but little
more than that of Pennsylvania, when poor humanity is thus crowded together. In the cars, I
had formed the acquaintance of a sociable party
of ladies and gentlemen, who pointed out places
to me, and instructed me concerning the manners
and social habits of the people. From Liverpool
hither, I found very small brick houses the rule,
and spacious buildings like our Pennsylvania farm
houses, the exception. Barns, I saw none; small
stables supply their places even on large farms.
We saw several very fine castles by the way, however.
Birmingham  is known as "the toy-shop of
Europe," " but most of the toys are for children of
larger growth." One can nowhere see richer sights




50              BIRMINGHAM.
than in the show-rooms of many of these shops.
One that I visited, a glass show-room containing
chandeliers priced upwards of a thousand dollars,
and all varieties of fancy-wares of every description, had large mirrors at the ends of the room,
covering  the entire walls, and  producing  the
grandest effect conceivable. The objects in the
room were thus infinitely multiplied in both directions, so that whichever way one turned his face,
glittering glass-ware was seen "as far as the eye
could reach."
Such sights are simply bewildering! It is'a
little difficult to gain admittance to the manufacturing departments of many of these places, but
to literary characters that represent "newspapers,"
the doors are generally opened quite readily. In
hunting these shops, I discovered a great want of
system in the naming and numbering of the streets
of this otherwise quite elegant city. I had passed
a certain street twice, from end to end, in search
of a particular number. Upon further inquiry, I
learned that what I had considered one street,
was numbered and named as two, though there
was not the slightest deviation from  a perfectly
straight line at any point of it. To make bad
worse, the houses were counted and numbered upwards on one side of the street, and downwards on
the other side. In such a city the stranger must
find places by speculation!
Strange things one meets at every step in Europe,




BIRMINGHAM.                   51
and soon gets so used to it, that it seems the
strangest to see something that is not strange; but
oddities are perhaps no plentier on one side of the
Atlantic than they are on the other, and are equally
amusing everywhere. Upon the burial ground of
St. Philip's, stands a monument in honor and
memory of a wife that died at the age of fifty-nine
years, which has a bee-hive and the inscription:
"She looked well to the ways of her household,
and did not eat the bread of idleness."
A number of fine statues adorn some of the
public squares. One of these, a bronze statue to
Peel faces east; while Priestley's marble statue faces
south.
The first thing that arrests the tourist's attention
on arriving at Birmingham, is its magnificent railroad station, the largest and finest that I had thus
far met with in England. As it was late in the
evening when I arrived, I had no time to pay
much attention to it until the next day. The part
entered by the trains is about 1,050 feet long and
200 feet wide, all in one apartment. This part is
sprung by forty-two immense iron arches, supporting a roof half of whose covering is glass. The
numerous tracks are separated by platforms running lengthwise through the building, from which
the passengers enter the cars. In order to avoid
the danger of crossing the tracks, there is a fine
foot-bridge, eighteen feet wide, running across the
tracks above the reach of the locomotive stacks.




52               BIRMINGHAM.
From this bridge, stairs descent to the platforms
between the tracks, as before mentioned.  Three
hundred trains pass through this station every
twenty-four hours.  An officer receives and dismisses these trains by means of a signal-bell. The
ticket-offices are in the second story of a large
building adjoining.
RAILROADS IN EUROPE.
There are no " conductors" upon the trains aftel
they leave the " stations" (which, by the way, I
never heard any one call depots, in Europe) but
officers are stationed at the head of every stairway
to punch the tickets.  Five minutes before any
particular train leaves, the ticket-office is closed.
and the conductors pass through the cars and inspect the tickets.  If any one did come into a
wrong car or train, there is still time left to correct
the mistake. Tickets are not collected till one's
destination is reached, where they must be delivered
to the door-keeper on leaving the station. Without it, a passenger is a prisoner.  " Railroading" is
so perfectly systemized in Europe, that it is quite
impossible either to cheat a company, or to be
cheated out of one's time by missing trains. There
is little danger of missing a train even in countries
where one can not speak the language. The cars
are divided into compartments (Ger. Abtheilungen)
of two seats or benches each, running across the
car, with doors at the sides.  In 1st Class cars, the
seats are finely cushioned and the compartments




RAILROADS IN EUROPE.               53
ire about as inviting in appearance as our Palace
ars; in 2nd Class cars the seats are comfortable
)ut common; but 3rd Class cars have only bare
wooden benches. There are in some countries,
Ith Class cars, which have no seats. I did not see
any of those, but from what I learned of others,
they must resemble our freight cars. In those, too,
passengers have the privilege of standing or sitting
lown, according to their taste or comfort. Tickets
Lo 1st Class cars cost about the same as in this
country, 2nd Class tickets cost three-fourths, and
3rd Class about half as much.
In hilly sections of the country, the railways
generally cross the wagon roads by bridges; but
wherever the two kinds of r(ds intersect each other
on a level, travel on the latter is interrupted by,ates and watchmen, who permit no one to pass
while a train is approaching the crossing. Thus
-very railway crossing in Europe is superintended
clay and night by watchmen.  These watchmen
are noticed by signal-bells, at the departure of
every train running in the direction of their crossings. Under such a system, accidents are impossible. Even the doors of each " compartment" are
barred by the conductors before the trains are dismissed, and will not be opened by the conductors
of the next station, until the train stands still.
The tickets, besides containing the ordinary matter on tickets in this country, have also the price
printed upon them.




54       RAILROADS IN EUROPE.
Some of the stations of the Old World, are
buildings of extraordinary beauty and magnificence.
The grandest structure of this kind, is, probably,
the station (Ger. Station or Bahnhof, Italian Stazione)
of Stuttgart. Among many others, might also be
mentioned the stations of Paris, of Turin, of Milan,
and of Rome; but the Great Western Station of
London, takes the palm of those all, for magnificence, beauty and convenience combined. What
the station at Clapham (seven miles above London) looks like, I do not know, but it is said, that
from  1,000 to 1,200 trains run through it every
twenty-four hours! What multitudes of people
must be streaming over the platforms and past the
windows of the ticket-offices of such a station,
every day! At Birmingham and at Crewe, where
300 and 500 trains pass daily, the swarming thousands remind one of floods and inundations, but how
must it look at Clapham?
July 7th, 3:40 p. m.  Leave Birmingham for
Stratford on the Avon (pron. A;'von).




CHAPTER IV.
STRATFORD-UPON-AVON.
Arrived at 5:00 p. m., July 7th. It had been my
intention to pay this place only a brief visit, giving
but a glance at " The Poet's" home and birthplace,
and then start on foot for Coventry; but I soon
found that Stratford possesses more charms than I
had anticipated. Shakespeare's fame has an influence over his native town, that is simply marvelous.
The thousands of tourists that come from every
land, and from every clime, to see the scenes that the
poet saw, and breath the same air that he breathed,
make the place one of the most popular resorts of
literary pilgrims, that can be found anywhere.
The buildings of Stratford are small and low, as
is the rule, rather than the exception, in English
towns and villages. Many are covered with tiles,
but the thatch roof is also very common here.
This consists of a mixture of straw and earth, often
more than a foot in thickness, and covered with
moss and grass. Notwithstanding this, both the
houses and the streets are kept remarkably clean
and inviting; so much so, that I felt nowhere else
so soon and so perfectly at home as here.  Its
people seem to be possessed of every virtue, and
preeminent among them all, is that of hospitality




56         STRATFORD-oN-AVON.
which seems to be blooming in the hearts of all its
citizens to-day, as did poetry in the mind of Shakespeare three hundred years ago.
The streets of this town are kept as clean as a
floor, by sweepers watching the streets all day long,
collecting and carrying away all the refuse matter.
One day, I felt ill at ease about a small piece of
paper that had become a superfluity in my pocket,
but which I was afraid to throw upon the street,
as it would there seem as much out of place as if
I should drop it upon the carpet in a parlor. I
passed along the pavement with it, until I met a
street-sweeper, and there threw it upon his heap
with a nod, which he reciprocated with a bow.
On entering Stratford, my foot first tended toward
SHAKESPEARE S BIRTHPLACE,
a large two-story house, about fifty feet long, having
three large dormer-windows and two chimneys,
one of them running up on the outside of the house.
The custodian takes the visitor through every
apartment of it, giving the history of the same and
of numerous articles of furniture and Shakesperian
relics, &c., which constitute a considerable museum.
When William Shakespeare's father was a " wellto-do" man, he occupied the whole house; but
after he had become poor, the east end was rented
to a hotel-keeper, and he lived in the middle part
only, which has later been used as a butcher-shop.
"On the 16th of September, 1847, it (the build



SHAKESPEARE'S BIRTHPLACE.   57
ing) was put up for sale by the magniloquent Mr.
George Robins, and in consequence of a strong appeal to the feelings of the people, made through
the public press, by which a National Subscription
was raised for the purpose; this house was bought
at the bidding of Mr. Peter Cunningham, for something more than 3,000 pounds sterling, and was
placed under Trustees on behalf of the Nation."
Space will not permit me to make mention of
more than a few of the many. interesting books,
manuscripts, works of art, antiques and relics,
found in this Library and Museum. Among them
stands the desk at which little "Willie" sat at
school, also a ring which he wore at his thumb
(later in life), and upon which are engraved the
letters "W. S." and a " true lover's knot."  I spent
nearly an hour here, a studying how things looked
in Shakespeare's time. The ground floors of the
house, are covered with flag-stones broken in varied
forms, as accident would have it, while the rough
massive timbers of the floors above stand out unpainted and unplastered. After taking a pleasant
walk, with a gay party, through the garden, in
which are cultivated all the flowers of which
Shakespeare speaks in his works, and, (I must not
fail also to mention), after having taken our turns
in sitting upon Shakespeare's chair, I bade the sociable company " good-by!" and started for
SHOTTERY,
"a genuine country village, consisting of a few




58              STRATFORD.
straggling farm-houses and brick and timber cottages, standing apart from each other in their old
gardens and orchard-crofts. Simple, old-fashioned,
and  almost' untouched by the innovations of
modern life, we are here amidst the charmed past
of Shakespeare's time."  Here is still to be seen,
the cottage in which was born and lived Anne
Hathaway, the wife of Wm. Shakespeare.  This
village lies about a mile from Stratford, and is
approached by a pleasant walk across quiet and
fertile fields and pasture lands, the same path along
which " Willie" used to steal when he went a-wooing his Anne. The Hathaway cottage is a large
old-fashioned thatch-roofed building-very plain
but very homely. The clumsy string-lifted wooden
door-latches, and the wooden pins fixing the framing, and which have never been cut off, but stick
up some inches from the wall, are still all there.
It was dusk before I got there. My rap at the
door was responded to by the appearance of an old
lady custodian, a descendent of the Hathaway
family, who immediately busied herself to light a
tallow  candle. That being  successfully accomplished, she commenced her story by pointing out
the old hearth, and explaining the kitchen arrangements of olden times. Among the old articles of
furniture, is a plain wooden settee or bench which
used to stand outside against the house near the
door, during the summer, and which, as tradition
has it, was Willie's and Anne's courting settee.




SHOTTERY.                   59
Pictures of their courtships hang against the walls,
exhibiting styles and fashions well in keeping with
the antique furniture of the room. An old carved
bed-stead of the Shakespeare era, stands in the
room  above.  Here the custodian offered me a
book of autographs, asking me to sign my name,
as has been customary since October 4th, 1846.
Six books have been filled with autographs, since
that time. Among the signatures I saw one Emma
R., July 24th, 1866. "This," said the custodian,
"is the signature of the Queen of the Sandwich
Islands."
Henry W. Longfellow's signature, who was here
with his brother (and families), June 23rd, 1868,
and that of Chas. Dickens, here in 1852, were also
pointed out.
The old lady would not let me go away without
having taken a drink from " the spring where Anne
used to drink." After presenting me with " lavender" and " rosemary" for mementoes, and a buttonhole boquet consisting of a fine rose and buds, for
immediate display, she wished me god-speed on
my journey, and I retraced the path across the
fields to Stratford.
New Place, the Home of Shakespeare, is the
most charming place in all Stratford. The extensive yard and garden which belonged to the property in Shakespeare's time, had been partially cut
up in lots and covered with houses; but these
have all been removed again, and the grounds laid




60              STRATFORD.
out into walks, lawns and flower beds, as the poet
was wont to have them. His yard and garden
covered an area of about two acres. The gentleman who has charge of the property now, exerts
himself to the utmost, to make the surroundings
pleasant and inviting, aiming particularly to plant
the same trees and flowers that the poet had
planted there, and to keep his favorite trees, or
lineal successors of them, in the same sites. Among
the ornamental trees and flowers, he pointed out a
number that he obtained from Vick, the florist, of
Rochester, N. Y.
Shakespeare was buried in the Church of the
Holy Trinity. His wife, his only daughter Susanna and her husband, Thomas Nash, lie with him
in the same row, immediately in front of the altarrails. His tombstone bears the following inscription:
GOOD FREND FOR JESVS SAKE FORBEARE,
TO DIGG THE DVST ENCLOASED HEARE:
E2    T
BLESE BE Y MAN y SPARES THES STONES,
T
AND CVRST BE HE y MOVES MY BONES.
The only typographical peculiarity not rendered
here, is the grouping together of HE in HEARE
and TH in THES, after the fashion of monograms.
This church also contains a half-length figure of
Shakespeare, painted after-nature. There is evidence extant that it had already taken its place




STRATFORD TO WARWICK.    61
against the wall in the year 1623. Beneath is inscribed:
Judicio pylivnm genio socratem, arte maronem,
Terra tegit, popvlvs maeret, Olympvs Habet.*
Stay, passenger; why goest thov by so fast?
Read, if thov ca-ist, whom  enviovs death hath
plast
Within this monvment; Shakespeare, with whom
Quick natvre dide; whose name doth deck ys.
tombe
Far more than cost; sith all yt. he hath writt
Leaves living art bvt page to serve his witt.
Obiit. Ano. Doi. 1616.
Xtatis 53. Die 23. Ap.
*[In judgment a Nestor, in genius a Socrates, in
art a Virgil.  The earth covers him, the people
mourn for him, Olympus has him.]
Of the Guildhall, the Grammar School, and the
beautiful Avon, with their hundred sweet associations, I dare say nothing more. After a stay of
three days, during which time I had recovered
from the effects of the severe strain and close application of mind and body, by which both had
suffered exhaustion, and been driven almost to the
verge of prostration, in the museum  at Liverpool
and the ruins of Chester; I started on way to Warwick (pron. War'rick) and Coventry. As my purpose was to walk the whole distance, about twenty
miles, I sent my sachel by rail, to the former place.




CHAPTER V.
STRATFORD TO COVENTRY.
This is the walk referred to by the two Englishmen who laid a wager as to which was the finest
walk in England. "After the money had been
put up, one named the walk from Stratford to
Coventry, and the other from Coventry to Stratford. How the umpire decided the case, is not
recorded." It was late in the afternoon on Saturday, July 10th, when I bade adieu to Stratford,
and went away rejoicing, in the hope of soon seeing the beauties of England's most charming agricultural section.
After two hours, I entered Charlecote Park, where
I disturbed several herds of deer, some hundred
head in all. From this park, as lame tradition has
it, Shakespeare once stole deer, and became an
exile for the crime!
On Sunday forenoon I attended service at
ST. MARY'S CHURCH,
in Warwick. The choir, lady chapel and chapterhouse are among the purest examples of Decorated
work, and date from 1394. The tomb of Richard
Beauchamp (Bee'cham) in the Lady Chapel, is
considered the most splendid in fhe kingcdom, with
the single exception of that of Henry VII. in
Westminster Abbey.




WARWICK.                    63
A very high tower stands over the entrance door,
at the west end of the church. The organ and
choir (at the same end) rendered the finest music
that I heard in England. There were several very
highly cultivated voices among those of the half
dozen ladies that occupied the space in front of
the organ.
Everything else about the services is eminently
examplary of the olden times. Preaching is the
least important part of the exercises. Pulpit oratory finds no place here. Singing, praying and
readings are the leading feature of worship in the
English Church in general, and of old churches
like this, in particular. Such exercises seem to be
eminently appropriate for a people whose hearts
and minds are almost petrified in civil and religious forms and ceremonies. The step which the
English Church took away from Catholicism, must
have been an extremely short one, if it was a step
at all. This congregation still turn their faces toward the east, during a certain part of their recitals, and bow ceremoniously, in concert, as often
as they mention the name of "Jesus Christ."
Two miles from   Warwich, is Leamington,
(Lem'ington), a fashionable " spa," which I visited
in the afternoon. It is a very pretty town, and
emphatically modern in style; presenting nothing
that is anti-American in appearance, except its
clusters of chimney-tops, so common everywhere
in Europe. As soon as one has crossed the Atlan



64    WARWICK TO COVENTRY.
tic he will seldom longer see single square tops
built upon the chimneys, but each apartment of
the house has its own chimney; all these converge,
but do not meet before coming out of the roof, so
that from two to six or eight tops generally keep
each other company on the house-tops.
At 3:45 p. m., I started from Warwick for Coventry. The road leading from this place to Coventry
is an excellent turnpike, just as that is from Stratford
hither, and has a splendid gravel walk for pedestrians on one side, and a riding path for those on
horse-back, on the other side.
Five miles brought me to Kenilworth Castle.
Great must have been its glories when Elizabeth
came here in 1575 to visit Liecester. Cromwell
dismantled it, and laid waste the. gardens around
it, and the tooth of time has been gnawing at it
ever since, but it is magnificent even in its ruins.
"Go round about it, tell the towers thereof, and
mark well its bulwarks, if you would know what a
mighty fortress it must have been when it held out
for half a year against Henry III. in 1266, or what
a lordly palace when it thrice welcomed Elizabeth
to its hospitalities, three hundred years later."
A quarter or half a mile further on, is a fine
church, and nearby an ivy-covered arch. A passing gentleman told me this had been the entrance
to an ancient abbey; and others said it was a part
of the ruined Castle of Kenilworth.
It was 6:00 o'clock when I left here, and had




APPROACHING COVENTRY.              65
five miles more to Coventry. A mile and a half
on this side of that city lie the extensive possessions of Lord Leigh. This wealthy peer owns
here, in one stretch, about twenty square miles of
the finest and most fertile land in the world.
About a mile from Coventry I encountered an
enormous stream of pedestrians coming out of the
city to take their evening walk. The promenade,
which is about ten feet wide at that place, was so
thronged with the gay young couples, that I found
it impossible to walk against the mighty stream,
and took the middle of the street. After. I had
entered the gate, I found the pavements on both
sides of the road becoming more and more crowded,
all bound for a pleasant grassy grove known as
"the lovers quarters."
It is difficult to make estimates under such circumstances, but there can hardly have been less
than 5,000 to 10,000 persons upon the promenade
that evening.
COVENTRY.
Coventry is remarkable for its elegant parish
churches, which are among the finest in England.
St. Michael's Church is one of the largest (some
say the largest) and noblest parish churches in
England."  Its steeple built between 1373 and
1395, is 303 feet high. The church was finished in
1450, when Henry VI. heard mass there. The
second and third of the "three tall spires" of
Coventry are that of Trinity Church and of Christ




66               COVENTRY.
Church. St. John's is famous for its magnificen
western window.
Coventry is well worth a visit on account c
those famous churches.
I was accompanied to those fine edifices by tw
precociously intelligent little beauties, (of seven an
eleven years respectively), whose gayety and chee,
fulness not only rendered their society very accep
able to "a stranger in a strange land;" but tln
simple fact of their being permitted to accompan
so perfect a stranger to all parts of the city, showe
how much trust some foreigners have in Amer
cans, and consequently, to what extent one ma
put confidence in them. Such incidents are ver
pleasant and encouraging to the lonely pilgrin
and may be made a matter of almost daily occu
rence by any social but circumspective travele
The traveling public in Europe are so social, an
etiquette so free, that the tourist can at every ste
form the acquaintance of some one who is boun
for the same church, museum  or pleasure garden
and thus be continually enjoying the benefits
intelligent and cheerful company.
On Monday noon, July 12th, I left Coventry I
rail, to return to
WARWICK VIA LEAMINGTON.
At 3:30 p. m., I had passed through the mar
elegant apartments of Warwick Castle, and stoc
at the top of its tower, overlooking the wood
groves, and flower garden, occupying  the 7(




OXFORD.                     67
eres of ground belonging to that princely mansion.Among the ornamental trees, our guide pointed
ut "one that Queen Victoria planted with her
wn hands."  Scott calls Warwich Castle  "the
direst monument of ancient and chivalrous splen-.or which yet remains uninjured by time."
It is said to have been founded in the 10th cenury, destroyed in the 13th, and restored by Thomas
e Beauchamp in the 14th.  It has been preserved
o well that it looks almost like a new palace, to-day
OXFORD
Aith its score of colleges scattered all over the city,
onstituting the world renowned University of the
Ia.e name, was " done" the next day, but done in
hurry. It is a depressing business to pass by so
auch, giving but a glance here and there, and not,e able to see so many things more at leisure.
lagnificent libraries and museums, grand churches.nd chapels, and extensive buildings and botanical:ardens, were rushed through and passed by, as if
he charm and beauty of Oxford's scenes consisted
ather in making the images of them flit in quick
uccession across the retina of the eye, than in ex-.mining, studying and contemplating them.
Merton College, founded 1264, contains a library;00 years old. Many of its large and rare books,re chained to their respective shelves, like dogs
o their kennels; and with chains too, of sufficient
trength to check any canine's wanderings. Christ
church I entered by the Tower —Gate, so namec




68                 OXFORD.
after the great bell contained in the cupola of t'
tower over it.  This bell weighs about 17,0'
pounds. The quadrangle inclosed by the buil
ings of this college, is' the largest and the me
noble in Oxford. Its dimensions are 264 by 2
feet, or nearly an acre and a half in extent. T.
" Hall" is 113 feet by forty, and fifty feet in heig]
"'The roof is of carved oak, with very elega
pendants, profusely decorated with the armor:
bearings and badges of King Henry VIII. a],Cardinal Wolsey, and has the date 1529." Its ba
-window at the end of the dais with its rich grain
vault of fan-tracery, is admired by every one.
Christ Church Meadow, with its " Broad Wal
one and a quarter mile in circuit, and Addisol
walk, near St. Mary Magdalen College, are amo
the most bewitching promenades that can be fou:.:anywhere, while "the manner in which Hig,street opens upon the view, in walking from t
Botanic Garden, is probably one of the finest thir,iof the kind in Europe."
Oxford is all history and poetry.  There is
tradition that upon the top of the elegant tower
St. Mary Magdalen, formerly on every May-d
mnoruing, at four o'clock, was sung a requiem:
the soul of Henry VII., the reigning monarch
the time of its erection. The custom  of chanti
a hymn beginning with
" Te Deum Patrem colimus,
Te laudibus prosequimur,"




OXFORD.                    69
the same place is still preserved, on the same
)rning of each year, at five o'clock.
The dark lantern which Guy Fawks used in the
inpowder Plot in 1605, and a picture of the conirators are contained in the New Museum.
From  Oxford I went directly to London by a
At line, which occupied less than two hours in
aking the journey.  From  the cars, we saw
indsor Castle, with its colors raised, meaning that
e Queen was there.
We also passed some large patches of flowers in
e fields, which were cultivated for the London
ower-market.
Foreigners in general have a great passion for,wers. While ladies wear them  in their hairs:on their bosoms, and carry them in their hand,
e gentlemen will carry button-hole bouquets, and
amy even stick them upon their hats.  They are.
3hionable with. all ages and all classes. From
ooming maidenhood to gray-headed age, all will
orn themselves with flowers. The English seem'
cultivate the most flowers, while the French and
e Italians, and (lately?) the Germans, wear most
)on their persons.  In England, every available
At of spare soil about the yard, is planted with,wers; on the continent, all the fashionable resarants and cafes must daily be supplied with
ish bouquets, with which these halls are decorated
lavish profusion.




CHAPTER VI.
LONDON,
We now approach London, the mighty nmistres'of the commercial world, the most populous cit
~on our globe. Here, certers the trade of all nation;
here, is transacted the business of the world. ]
you would know how it looks where concentratio
~of business has reached its climax, then come t
London.  Many of its streets are so crowded'wit
-omnibuses, wagons, dray-carts, &c., that it is almoi.
impossible for a pedestrian to cross them.  Whei
the principal streets intersect each other, the bust]
and tumult of trade is so great, that it becomes
dangerous undertaking to attempt to effect a cros
ing at such a square.
For the protections and accommodation of tho,
on foot, the squares are provided with little pla
forms elevated a step above the surface of the roat
and surrounded with a thick row of stone post.
between these, the pedestrian can, enter, but th(
shield him from  the danger of being tread und<
the feet of horses, or run over by vehicles. Heone stands perfectly safe, even when everything
confusion for an acre around. As soon as an o]
portunity opens, he runs to the next landing; ar
thus continues, from  landing to landing, until ti
opposite side of the square is reached. It oft(




LONDON.                     71
equires five minutes to accomplish this feat.  It
las been estimated that no less than 20,000 teams.
id equestrians, and 107,000 pedestrians cross Lonlon Bridge every twenty-four hours.  By police
arrangement, slow traffic travel at the sidesandthe
[uick in the center. It is 928 feet long and fiftyour wide. Not only are the streets crowded, but
)eneath the houses and streets, in the dark bosom,f the earth, there is a net-work of
UNDERGROUND RAILROADS,:xtending to all parts of the city, which pick up
hat surplus of travel which it has become impos-,ible to accomplish above.
There are some thirty miles of tunneled railrays in London, now, and the work of extending
hem is carried on with increasing energy. This
ailway is double track' everywhere, and forms two:ircuits, upon one of which the trains continually'un in one direction, while those on:the other track'un in the opposite direction.  Collisions are thereore impossible between  these two  systems of
ounter-currents.  Numerous stations are built all
dlong these roads, where travelers can descend to:neet the trains or leave them, to make their ascend,o the city above. To give the reader an idea of
bhe inmmense amount of traveling done in these
dark passages under London, it need only be stated
that long trains of cars pass each station every
" ten minutes," and- are as well filled with passengers as those of railroads on the surface of the




72                 LONDON.
earth.  The cars are comfortably lighted, so that
after one has taken his seat and the train begins to
run along, it resembles night-traveling so perfectly,
that the difference is scarcely perceptible.
Of all modes of travel, these underground railroads afford the quickest, cheapest, safest and most
convenient manner of transit.
This great metropolis includes the cities of London and Westminster, the borough of Southwark,
and thirty-six adjacent parishes, precincts, townships, &c. It covers an area of 122 square miles,
and has a population of about 4,000,000, that ofthe
City of London proper being no more than about
75,000.  Murray's Modern London contains the
following statistics:
"The Metropolis is supposed to consume in one
year 1,600,000 quarters of wheat, 300,000 bullocks,
1,700,000 sheep, 28,000 calves, and 35,000 pigs."
(If these animals were arranged in a double line,
they would constitute a drove over a thousand
miles long!)
"One market alone (Leadenhall) supplies about
4,025,000 head of game.  This, together with 3,000000 of salmon, irrespective of other fish and flesh,
is washed down by 43,200,000 gallons of porter and
ale, 2,000,000 gallons of spirits, and 65,000 pipes of
wine. To fill its milk and cream jugs, 13,000 cows
are kept.  To light it at night, 360,000 gas-lights
fringe the streets, consuming, every twenty-four
hours, 13,000,000 cubic feet of gas; while the




STATISTICS.                   73
private consumption of gas in a year amounts to
10,000,000,000 cubic feet. Its arterial or water system supplies the enormous quantity of 44,383,328
gallons per day, while its venous or sewer system
carries off 9,502,720 cubic feet of refuse. To warm
its people and to supply its factories, a fleet,
amounting to upwards of a thousand sail, is employed in bringing annually 3,000,000 tons of coal,
exclusive of 2,000,000 tons brought by rail. The
thirsty souls of London need have no fear of becoming thirstier so long as there are upwards of
6,700 public houses and 2,000 wine merchants to
minister to their deathless thirst.
" The bread to this enormous quantity of sack is
represented by 2,500 bakers, 1,700 butchers, not including pork butchers, 2,600 tea dealers and grocers,
1,260 coffee-room keepers, nearly 1,500 dairy-men,
and 1,350 tobacconists. To look after the digestion
of this enormous amount of food upwards of 2,400
duly licensed practitioners, surgeons and physicians are daily running to and fro through this
mighty metropolis, whose patients, in due course
of time and physic, are handed over to the tender
mercies of 500 undertakers.  Nearly 3,000 boot
and shoe-makers give their aid to keep our feet dry
and warm, while 2,950 tailors do as much for the
rest of our bodies.  The wants of the fairer portion of the population are supplied.by 1,080 linen
drapers, 1,500 milliners and dressmakers; 1,540
private schools take charge of their children; and




74                 LONDON.
290 pawn-brokers' shops find empioyment and
profit out of the reverses, follies, and vices of the
community.  It is said that 700,000 cats are kept
in London, to maintain whom  large part of the
3,000 horses which die every week is sold by cat'smeat vendors.  About 520,000 (1873) houses give
shelter to upwards of three millions of people,
whose little differences are aggravated or settled by
upwards of 3,000 attorneys and 3,900 barristers.' Tite spiritual wants of this mighty aggregate
of human souls are cared for by more than 2,000
clergymen and dissenting ministers, who respectively preside over 620 churches and 423 chapels,
of which latter buildings the Independents have
121, the Baptists 100, the Wesleyans 77, the Roman
Catholics about 90, whereas in 1808 they had but
13, the Calvinists andEnglish Presbyterians 10
each, the Quakers 7, and the Jews 10; the numerous other sects being content with numbers
varying from  one to five each. To wind up with
the darkest part of the picture, the metropolis contains on an average 129,000 paupers."
On my way to London, I fell in company with
a young gentleman who was well acquainted in
the metropolis, and who gave me much valuable
information, and assisted me in establishing myself in a central location, where excursions to all;sections could be convenicuntly maide. This wras.K Iing's Cross Station," the terminus of the Great
Northern Railway, and one of the principal sta



LONDON.                     75
tions of the M.etropolitan (or Underground) Railroad; besides, it is in the heart of the great city.
Wre reached it by the Underground Railway from
Paddington, the terminus of the Great Western
Railway.  When we came up2 out of the earth at
Kings Cross, I saw a busy-ness such as I had never
seen before. My friend went with me a short distance to point out a street where private rooms
could be rented.
The tourist who wants to make the most of his
time must never engage to board at his lodgingplace, as it will be very inconvenient and at a
sacrifice of much time, to return thither for his
meals. The most economical way is to have a
room either at a hotel or at a private house, and to
take the meals at the numerousBrestaurants, one of
which can be reached anywhere in five minutes.
I had great difficulty in procuring a room, but
persisted in my inquiries until I succeeded. The
traveler will learn quicker than any other person
that perseveremce is the only road to success. He must
often see everything go contrary for a whole hour,
and even sometimes for half a day in succession.
Such reverses frequently occasion a "blue-Monday" in the middle of the week.
My first walk, after I had found a home in London, was to the Post-Office, to look for letters from
my friends in America.  This was about three:miles off. I returned a different way, and took a
look at the exterior of St. Paul's.  As the Covent




76                  LONDON.
Garden Theater (the finest in London) was already
full before I reached it, I went on to the Oxford
Street Music Theater and spent my first evening
there.  The next cday (Wednesday, July 14th,) I
entered
ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL,
the noblest building in England in the Classic
style.  Its length from east to west is 550 feet and
its height to the top of the cross 370 feet. Under
the dome is an area affording seats for 5,000 persons. Here 5,000 charity children are collected on
the first Thursday in June every year, to unite
their voices in songs of praise. Besides the dome,
St. Paul's has two other towers, each 222 feet high.
In one of these is the clock and the great bell upon
which it strikes.
The length of the minute-hand of the clock is
eight feet, and its weight seventy-five pounds; the
length of the hour-hand is five feet five inches, and
its weight forty-four pounds.  The bell is ten feet
in diameter and weighs 11,474 pounds.  " It is inscribed,'Richard Phelps made, me, 1716,' and is
never used except for striking the hour, and for
tolling at the deaths and funerals of any of the
Royal Family, the Bishops of London, the Deans
of St. Paul's, and the Lord Mayor, should he die
in his mayoralty."
It requires a man three quarters of an hour
every day to wind the clock, the striking weight
alone weighing 1,200 pounds.




LONDON.                    77
The dome constitutes a very remarkable whisper
gallery, the slightest whisper being transmitted
from  one side to the other with the greatest distinctness.
This Cathedral contaiinss nmany fine monuments
interesting from the persons they commemorate.
Among them are those to the Duke of Wellington,
to Nelson, to Lord Cornwallis, to Sir Charles Napier, to Sir William Jones, the Oriental scholar,
and numerous others.
CRYSTAL PALACE,
which is outside of the city, is perhaps the grandest
Exposition Building in the world, and possibly the
only structure of the kind in existence, since
the destruction, by fire, of Crystal Palace, in New
York. This Great Exhibition Building was first
built upon Hyde Park, covering nearly nineteen
acres of ground. It was visited by upwards of
6,000,000 peisons during the twenty-four weeks
that it was open, or about 40,000 persons daily.
The receipts amounted to over $2,000,000.
It was re-erected and enlarged at Sydenham, in
Kent, 1853-4, at a cost of over $7,000,000.
It must be over a quarter of a mile long, and
about one-fourth as wide. The entire sides and
the whole of the immense arched roof are of glass,
admitting all the light except what little is intercepted by the sashes, thus affording an illumination quite equal to that outside, under the clear
canopy of heaven.




78                 LONDON.
The exterior gardens and water-works are magnificent. Among the attractions about the yard,
is a. glass tower about forty-five or fifty feet in
diameter and over 200 feet high. Beautiful indeed is this magnificent crystal tower.
A clock with sixty-nine faces shows the times of
so many.different places on our planet.  For the
accommnodation of, such as are astronomically inclined, I render the following. record as I entered
it upon my diary, July 16th:  Civil Middle Time,
12:40 p. m.; Astronomical Middle Time, 12:39~ p.
m.; Sidereal Time, 19:494; True Time, 12:38z
p. m.
Around its great organ, there is seating acconmodation for a choir of 2,000 singers.
For seeing the building only, one could well
afford to go a great distance; but there are also
constantly on exhibition  a large collection  of
curiosities of every description, while extensive
bazars expose for sale the richest and finest goods
and wares of all kinds, and from the stores of every
quarter of the globe.
There is also on exposition a large collection of
plants, and a magnificent art gallery of paintings,
sculpture, &c. Concert every day.
London has much fog and rain. I had but two
fair days out of the eight I spent there. One very
rainy morning I started out to see the Houses oi
Parliament. On my way thither I came to Trafalgar Square.  In the center stands the magnificent




LONDON.                  79
Nelson Column, surrounded by statues and fountains. In order to shield myself from the rain,
and to enjoy the view of the grand square before
me, and of the Parliamentary Buildings in the distance, I took refuge upon the portico of the National Gallery of Paintings. Here I incidentally
met and formed the acquaintance of the brother
of Miss Rosie Hersee, a songstress, who had lately'made herself popular in this country. After accompanying me through the Art Gallery, he
changed his programme for the afternoon, and had
the kindness to spent the balance of the day with
me, showing me through the Houses of Parliament
and Westminster Abbey. The tourist should constantly be on the lookout for some suitable companion who is well posted at the place that he proposes to visit. Without such a person to point out
things and explain them, one will miss more than
he sees. I had just taken leave of a gentleman
who had given me considerable assistance, but
whose course so differed from my programme, that
I was in fear of losing time should I accompany
him longer. My new companion was a short-hand
reporter of one of the London  papers, and
thoroughly acquainted in Westminster.
THE HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT.
This is one of the largest buildings ever erected
continuously in Europe-perhaps the largest
Gothic edifice in the world. It stands upon the
bank of the Thames, occupying the site of the old




80                 LONDON.
Royal Palace of Westminster, burnt down in 1834,
and covers nearly eight acres. This building has
100 staircases, more than two miles of corridors,
and 1,100 apartments! The cost of erection wae
some $14,000,000, or a little more than that of the
Capitol of the United States.
Having procured tickets we entered by the Royal
Entrance under the Victoria Tower, one of the most
stupendous structures of the kind in the world.
It is 340 feet high and seventy-five feet square.
The entrance archway is sixty-five feet high, and
the vault is a rich and beautiful grained roof of
elaborate workmanship, while the interior is decorated with statues of her present Majesty, supported by Justice and Mercy, and the statues of
the patron saints of England, Scotland and Ireland.
The first apartment that we entered, was the
Robing Room. From this room, after the ceremony
of robing, her Majesty on her way to the Throne
passes through a magnificent hall 110 feet long,
forty-five feet wide and forty-five feet high, called
the Victoria Gallery.  It contains two magnificent
frescoes of events in the history of England, covering large sections of the two side-walls. One represents the death of Nelson, and the other the
meeting of Wellington and Blicher after the Battle
of Waterloo.
The House of Peers, ninety-seven feet long, fortyfive feet wide, and forty-five high, is one of the




HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT.                81
richest and most magnificent chambers in the world.
To the left of the entrance is the Throne on which
her Majesty sits when she attends the House, and
beside it, the chair of the Prince of Wales. Rich
in carvings and lavishly gilt, this noble chamber
presents a view of great grandeur.
The subdued light, admitted by the stained glass
of its windows, does not dazzle the eye as would a
perfect illumination of such giltings, but what is
lost in splendor, is perhaps gained in modest grandeur.
"The arrival of her Majesty is announced within the -House by the booming of the cannon. Her
entrance is preceeded by the Heralds in their rich
dress, and by some of the chief officers of state in
their robes. All the peers are in their robes. The
Speech is presented to her Majesty by the Lord,Chancellor, kneeling, and is read by her Majesty or
by him; the Royal Princes and Princesses with
the Mistress of the Robes and one of the ladies of
the bed-chamber standing by her side on the dais.
The return to Buckingham  Palace is by three at
the latest."
The old custom of examining the cellars underneath the House of Lords, some hours before her,Majesty's arrival, is still observed. This custom
had its origin in the infamous Gunpowder plot of
1605.
The House of Comrmons is sixty-two feet long by:forty-five feet broad and forty-five feet high; to
-which England and Wales return 500 members,




82                 LONDON.
Ireland 105, adcl Scotland 53, making in all 658
members.
St. Stephens Hall 95 feet long, 30 feet wide, and
56 feet high to the apex of the stone groining, is
lined by twelve " statues of Parliamentary statesmen who rose to eminence by the eloquence and
abilities they displayed in the House of Commons."
Fox and Pitt are here placed on opposite sides of
the hall, "facing" each other after the manner they
were wont to in the House of Commons.
Westminster Hall is 290 feet in length, 68 feet
in width, and 110 feet in height. "It is the largest
apartment not supported by pillars in the world."
Let the reader picture to himself the scenes of the
events which history records as having taken place
in this venerable Hall.  " Here were hung the
banners taken from  Charles I., at the battle of
Naseby; from Charles II. at the battle of Worcester; at Preston and Dunbar; and, somewhat later,
those taken at the battle of Blenheim.  Here, at
the upper end of the Hall, Oliver Cromwell was
inaugurated as Lord Protector, sitting in a robe ofpurple velvet lined with ermine, on a rich cloth of
state, with the gold sceptre in one hand, the Bible
richly gilt and bossed in the other, and his sword
at his side. Here, four years later, at the top of
the Hall fronting Palace-yard, his head was set on
a pole, with the skulls of Ireton on one side, of
Bradshaw on the other.  Here, shameless ruffians.
sought employment as hired witnesses, and walked




HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT.               83
openly in the Hall with a straw in the shoe to denote their quality; and here the good, the great,
the brave, the wise, and the abandoned have been
brought to trial. Here (in the Hall of Rufus) Sir
William Wallace was tried and condemned; in
this very Hall, Sir Thomas More and Protector
Sommnerset were doomed to the scaffold. Here, in
Henry VIII's reign (1517), entered the City apprentices, implicated in the murders on'Evil May
Day' of the aliens settled in London, each with a
halter round his neck, and crying' Mercy, gracious
Lord, Mercy,' while Wolsey stood by, and the
King, beneath his cloth of state, heard their defense and pronounced their pardon —the prisoners
shouting with delight and casting up their halters
to the Hall roof,'so that the King,' as the chroniclers observe,'might perceive they were none of
the descreetest.' Here the notorious Earl and
Countess of Somerset were tried in the reign of
James I. for the murder of Sir Thomas Overbury.
Here, the great Earl of Stafford was condemned;
the King being present, and the Commons sitting
bareheaded all the time. The High Court of Justice which condemned King Charles 1. sat in this
Hall, the upper part hung with scarlet cloth, and
the King sitting underneath, with the Naseby banners suspended above his head. Lilly, the astrologer, who was present, saw the silver top fall from
the King's staff, and others heard Lady Fairfax
exclaim, when her husband's name was called over,




84-                 LONDON.
He has more wit than to be here.' Here, in the
reign of James II., the seven bishops were acquitted.
Here Dr. Sacheverel was tried and pronounced:grilty by a majority of seventeen. Here the rebel
Lords of 1745, Kilmarnock, Balmerino, and Lovat,
were heard and condemned.  Here, Warren Hastings was tried, and Burke and Sheridan grew elo-.quent and impassioned, while Senators by birth.and election, and the beauty and rank of Great
-Britain, sat earnest spectators and listeners of the,extraordinary scene. The last public trial in the
1iall was Lord Melville's in 1806; and the last
coronation dinner in the Hall was that of George
IV., when, according to the custom maintained for
ages, and for the last time probably, the King's
champion (Dymocke) rode into the Hall in full.armor, and threw  down the gauntlet, challenging
the world in a King's behalf. Silver plates. were
laid, on the same occasion, for 334 guests. " —urray.
The Central or Octagon Hall is an elegant and
well lighted apartment eighty feet in height.  It
is covered by a groined roof ornamented with.250
bosses.
The Clock Tower is forty feet square and 320 feet
high. The Palace Clock in this tower is an eightyday clock, striking the hours and chiming the
quarters upon eight bells.  Its four dials on the
tower are each thirty feet in diameter.
From the Houses of Parliament we went over to




WESTMINSTER ABBEY.                   85
see Westminster Abbey, which is on the opposite
side of the street.  The contrast between those
buildings is so striking, that old Westminster
seemed to be quite an ordinary edifice.  As I
looked at its weather-beaten and moss-covered
walls, and its small proportions as compared with
the grand edifice which we had just left; I speculated what the old stable-like building might look
like on the inside.  We had not entered long before I observed that it was somewhat larger than
I had imagined.  It is 416 feet long, 203 feet across
the transepts, and 101 feet 8 inches to the roof.
Back of the high altar is Edward the Confessor'
Chapel containing the graves and monuments of
nine kings and queens.  In this chapel are the two
Coronation Chairs upon which all the sovereigns of
Great Britain have been crowned since the death
of Henry III., (by whom Westminster Abbey was
built), beginning with the coronation of his son,
Edward I., and. Queen Eleanor, October 19th,
1274.  One of these chairs has for a seat the venerable stone on which the Scottish kings had been
crowned at Scone from  time immemorial; but
which together with the regalia of Scotland, Edward I. brought with him  as trophies in 1296.
" This stone is 26 inches long, 16 inches wide, and
11 inches thick."
In the " Poet's Corner" we joined a party and
were guided through the chapels.
In Henry VI.'s Chapel we found a very beauti



86                  LONDON.
ful effigy of the Princess Sophia lying in an alabaster cradle.  This infant princess was the daughter of James I., and is not mentioned by some historians, having died at a very tender age.
This chapel contains many royal tombs. Among
others are the altar-tomb, with effigy of the mother
of Lord Darnley, husband of Mary, Queen of Scots;
tomb, with effigy of Queen Elizabeth (her sister,
Mary, being buried in the same grave); and the
tomb, with a fine effigy of Mary, Queen of Scots,
erected by her son, King James IV., of Scotland,
(being James I. of England).  The face of this
image is very beautiful, and generally recognized
as a genuine likeness of the Queen.. Oliver Cromwell's bones were speedily ejected frolm this chapel
at the Restoration.
In the E. aisle of the North Transept is a remarkable  monument to Mr. and  Mrs. Nightingale.
Death represented in the ghastly form of a sheeted
skeleton has just issued from a dark aperture in the
lower part of the monument, and aims his dart at
the sick lady who has sunk affrighted into her husband's arms.  " This dying woman," says Cunningham, " would do honor to any artist."
In another part of the church, we found a fine
monument to "  ajor John Anldre, who raised by
his merit, at an early period of life, to the rank of
Adj. General of the British forces in America, and
employed in an important but hazardous enterprise, fell a sacrifice to his zeal and his king and




WESTMINSTER ABBEY.                87
country on the 2nd of October, A. D., 1780, aged29
years, universally beloved and esteemed. His
gracious sovereign, King George the Third, has
caused this monument to be erected. The remains'of Major John Andre were on the 10th of August,
1821, removed from Tappan by James Buchanan,
Esq., his Majesty's consul at New York, under
instruction from his Royal Highness, the Duke of
York, and with the permission of Dean and Chap.ter finally deposited in a grave contiguous to this
monument on the 28th of November, 1821."
There are altogether between twenty-five and
thirty kings and queens buried in this Abbey, besides a host of England's most famous statesmen,
soldiers, poets and other eminent persons that have
flourished within the last five or six centuries, a
mere catalogue of whose names would fill whole
pages.
It seems odd enough to an American to find
large grave-yards in the interior of churches and
cathedrals, and to see monuments, tombs and altartombs, with the effigies of persons lying in state
having all kinds of animals (their crests) lying at
their feet; but a day in Westminster will accustom
one to such scenes.
ARMS AND CRESTS.
In England, it is very common to place the crests
of the nobility with their effigies upon their tombs.
Thus Mary, Queen of Scots, has the lion lying at
her feet, and in St. Mary's, at Warwick, I learned




88                LONDON.
that the Muzzled Bear is the Earl of Warwick's
crest, while the Marquis of Northampton has the
Black Swan, and Richard Beauchamp the Bear and
Griffin. Even literary characters were not without
them, Shakespeare for example, had adopted the
Falcon rising argent, supporting a spear, in pale.
SUNDAY IN LONDON.
On Sunday morning, July 18th, I started out at
random to find a church where religious service
was held.  Before going far I came to a large
church edifice (St. Pancras) where numbers of people were assembling from all directions and gradually filling up that capacious building which has
seats for about 3,000 worshipers. Upon the portico
I met the Superintendent of the Mission House,
who had accompanied the Vicar of St. Pancras on
a visit to Canada, some years ago, and who seemed
as much pleased to meet an American as I was
benefited by his kind attentions and accommodations. For three-fourths of an hour, he answered
me questions and explained the organization of
the Church of England, which by the way, is
quite as complicated as the organization of the
civil government of a nation.  Arch-bishops,
bishops, vicars, canons, deans, chapters, curates,
&c., constitute a list of ecclesiastical dignitaries
whose functions are not very easily defined and
comprehended by a stranger. Just before service
commenced, he conducted me to a seat near the
pulpit. Rev. Thorold, the officiating clergyman, is




SUNDAY IN LONDON.                89
a very able speaker, and made the first attempt at
argument in his discourse that I had yet listened
to in England. Preaching, in England, like the
reciting of prayers, is all so much blank assertion
— no more, and no less. I had never before so felt
the force of unquestioned authority as I learned to
feel and appreciate it in the services of the Episcopal Church of England. The very fact of arguing
a question is in itself a compromise of its onesidedness and of the infallibility of the position
the preacher may have taken; but let the clergy
of an entire nation read the same mass and recite
the same prayers in all their congregations, and
let them  refrain from  discussing scriptural texts,
and all give one and the same answer to each and
every question, and there will soon be an end of
sectarianism. The best reasoning has always provoked more doubt than. it has established faithy
and in consequence, ever been more fruitful of contention than of peace. So long as a people are
one-minded they will be peaceful and contended
even if they are bound in wretched slavery, but the
tide of revolution has set in at London, and the
church begins to tremble, and the clergy to argue.
In the afternoon, the weather being very fair, I
went to
HYDE PARK.
This park has an area of 388 acres, upon which
may be seen all the wealth and fashion and splendid equipages of the nobility and gentry of Eng



190                 LONDON.
land. A meetihg of the Radicals had been an
nounced and placarded over the city, inviting al
workingmen to ba present and enter their protes
against Parliament appropriating any money t<
the Prince of Wales for defraying the expenses o
his contemplated trip to India.  The novelty io
-seeing a political neeting on Sunday, and that to;'on the part of the Republicans-in monarchial Eng
~land, was enough to entice -me thither, so I wen
early and spent an hour with a silver-haired clergy
~man, upon a settee under the shade of a tree no'far from " The Reform Tree," around which, as this
gentleman informed me, the nucleus of Radica.
meetings is always formed. On my way to the
park, I was accompanied for some distance by t,certain  policeman, (whose acquaintance I ha(
formed during the week); to him I expressed m)
surprise at seeing Great Britain compromise th(
-sacredness of the Sabbath with radical Republi
canism  and Rationalism!  "Well," said he, " I
we let them  have their own way, they will com(
here and hold their meetings and after they hav(
listened to their leaders awhile and cheered right
lustily, they will scatter and that is the end of it
but when we interfere, there is no telling where
-the matter will end. In 1866, we once closed the
park against them, and the consequence was a riol
in which the police suffered severely from  brickbats, and the mob finally took hold of the iror
-fence and tore it away for a long distance along the




SUNDAY IN LONDON.                 91
park, made their entry, and took their own way."' Well could you not have punished those offenders.ccording to due process of law?' I asked.  "Yes,"
5e rejoined, " we might, but their number was so
treat that we could never have finished trying.hem  all!"  Thus it often happens that what is
ciminal for one or several to do, goes unpunished
when a thousand offend, and besides they open the
way to new privileges and greater liberties.
At 3:00 o'clock a mighty flood of the Reform
Party, headed by Bradlaugh and Watts, marched
into the park and, soon a large meeting of many
thousands was formed, which increased in numbers as long as the spealWrs continued to address
them.  It is a striking feature of these reform
agitations, perhaps of every revolutionary movement that has ever been undertaken and accomplished, that they are headed and lead by men
whose personal influence embodies the whole power
of the organizations, and whose word and command are their supreme law. This meeting was
variously estimated at between 20,000 and 50,000
persons, and this ilmmense concourse of people was
as perfectly under the control of Chas. Bradlaugh
as the best organized army can be under its general.
This harmony must be attributed to the fact that
the movement is a spontaneous one in which each
member participates because he likes the leader
and his principles.  It is an encouraging feature of
these reformers that they do not despise everything




92                 LONDON.
that the past has handed down to our time, as th,
hot-blooded Communists of Paris seemed to be in
dined to do in the late crisis. The dress of thes
agitators speak nothing about bloody revolution
as did the " red cap" and slouch hat of the politi
cal reformers of Europe of earlier times.
Bradlaugh, for an example, wears a black dres.
coat, silk dress hat, lay-down collar and blaci
necktie, and carries a cane. The great majority o
the meeting wore also the fashionable " stove-pipe. 
These things and the sound judgment of the leaden
promise  -'peaceable reforms" but the boundlesi
enthusiasm of the mass of them when imflamator3
remarks are made, betray the existence of feelings
that are akin to pent up  volcanoes, and mav
break out in violent eruptions when least expected
There is certainly fire enough in European PRepublicanism to impel them on to mighty efforts wher
the proper time comes. The part played by several
ladies in this movement has a salutary influence
for moderation and order. Mrs. Besant and the
two daughters of Mr. Bradlaugh are always accompanying him wherever he lectures in London.
A table was placed in the center of a circle formed
around the leaders, and upon this Mr. Bradlaugh
took his stand in addressing the meeting.  His
voice is far more powerful than that of any other
man that I have ever heard, and by the use of
medicine which his elder daughter (Alice) reaches
up to him very frequently during his speeches, he




SUNDAY IN LONDON.                  93
eeps it perfectly clear to the end; though in these
pen air meetings he often stands in the face of
),000 to 100,000 persons, speaking by the hour
ith a force quite equal to the roaring of a lion.
his violent exercise of his vooal organs, he somemes repeats several times every day for a month t
t succession, displaying powers of endurance
hich are perhaps not equaled by any other living
Lator. It is an exciting scene to behold acres of
ats beclouding the sky while "cheers rend the.:,' and to see a field white with hands when votes
ce taken. Only three persons in this entire meetig voted in favor of granting the Prince of Wales
ie $700,000 asked for, while some acres of people
oted against it.
It should be remembered that this was a meetig of the extremze branch of the Republican party
i London. There is a more moderate party headed
y leaders who only despise royalty, but abide with
ie Church and the Christian religion, and which
said to be far more numerous than the extremists
re. In the evening the Radicals had a meeting
i the Hall of Science, where Mr. Bradlaugh adressed them on the subject of religion and social
Lhics. His discourses here are generally very abpruse. None but a very intelligent audience, and
ducated in his system of philosophy would underland his logic or appreciate his wit and humor at:ie expense of royalty and Christianity.  The
all will hold about 1,500 adults and his congrega



94                 LONDON.
tion (?) is a mixed one comprising both sexes, just
like all church organizations; after which, it is E
copy.  There is no praying, but the Miss Brad.
laughs render music upon a melodian or organ
both before and after the lecture.  In place of th.
"collection," they charge a small admittance, whici
becomes a source of considerable revenue; as th:
hall is crowded at almost every meeting. I must
here record. one more feature which implies, besides' the oratorical powers and progressive originality of the father, an intensity of interest on the
part of a daughter, in her father's views, such as is
seldom  witnessed. Miss Alice B. will, from  the
beginning to the end of every lecture, keep the eye
of her father, watching every change of his countenance from the flush of a glowing enthusiasm tc
the pallor of bitter contempt, catching every syllable he utters, reflecting with beaming smiles every
happy hit he makes, and sinking down to the paleness of utter disdain with him, when he oomes to
the recital of the heartless oppressions of the aristocracy; continually following his remarks with
such an interest as if she was seeing and hearing
him for the first time in her life.
I. have given a somewhat lengthy account of
these Radical meetings and  rationalistic sentiments,. not on account of their popularity in England, for though hundreds of thousands endorse
the movement in London and a number of other
cities in Great Britain, still they are by far in the




PARKS.                    95
dinority, at least when the question of religion is
1ken; but upon the continent of Europe-il
rance, Germany, and I bad almost added Switzernd and Italy, the case is already different or fast
~coming so.  Rationalism is rampant, and the
iader should constantly bear in mind, as I may
ot often return to this topic, that the majority of:
ie intelligent people in most places are of the,amp that I have described as holding these meetigs on Hyde Park and in the Hall of Science in
ondon.
Those Radical societies have their own hymnooks, and even their children are baptised and
ie dead buried, according to their own forms and.remonies, of unbelief.
Of the numerous other parks in London, I have
o room to make mention. Of the British Museum,
omprising a collection of books, works of art, an-.quities, and curiosities, larger than that of any
ther museum contained under one roof in the.
rorld, costing in the aggregate $12,000,000, and
he building $5,000,000, and of the South Kensing>n Museum fast approaching the British Museum
i the vastness of its collection, I can only add,
hat.a complete catalogue of their collections
rould fill several large volumes, and to examine
11 their contents would require many weeks,'here are numerous other museums and galleries.
f art strewn over the great metropolis, each more
omprehensive than, the pride and boast of many




96                 LONDON.
other cities of pretention in the world, but in London they are only regarded as second rate collections.
If a tourist has only a few days to devote t'c
London, he should not fail to pass through Parl
Lane (along Hyde Park, at the foot of which live.
the son of Arthur, the Duke of Wellington, Comr
mander at Waterloo) thence along Piccadilly, passing Charing Cross, Trafalgar Square, the Strand.
and Fleet Street, and, having visited Westminster
Abbey and St. Paul's Cathedral, will now find
THE TOWER OF LONDON
next in importance. This ancient citadel is the
most celebrated in England, and dates back to the
time of William  the Conqueror (A. D., 1066) at
least; but tradition refers it even to Caesar's time.
It covers over twelve acres, and its walls are about
three-fifth of a mile in circuit. The outer walls of
the White Tower, which stands within the fortifi —
cations, are fifteen feet thick.
"This Tower" (The Tower of London) "is a.
citadel to defend or command the city; a royal
palace; a prison of state for the most dangerous
offenders; the armory for warlike provisions; the
treasury of the ornaments and jewels of the Crown;
and general conserver of most of the records of the
King's courts of justice at Westminster."-Stow.
The Bloody Tower, so called because within it
was committed the murder of the princes, Edward
Vo and Duke of York, sons of Edward IV., by or



THE TOWER.                    97
der of Richard III. In this Tower is the Jewelhouse containing the regalia and the Crown jewels.
Among these, are St. Edward's Crown which was
made,for the coronation of Charles II., (A. D.,
1649), and used in the coronations of all the soverreigns since his time. The Crown made for the corronation of Victoria, consisting of a purple velvet
cap enclosed by hoops of silver, and studded with
diamonds. It weighs 1t pounds. This Crown is
estimated  at ~111,900  (about $550,000).  The
Crown of the Prince of Wales, of pure gold, unadorned by jewels. The Queen Consort's Crown
of gold adorned with precious stones. The Queen's
Diadem. Besides, staffs, sceptres, spurs, the Ampulla of the Holy Oil, the Coronation Spoon, the
Golden Salt-cellarof State, in the shape of a castle,
Baptismal Font, used at the Christening of the
Royal Children, a Silver Wine Fountain, maces,
swords, bracelets &c.,- all arranged upon a large
table, enclosed by a glass case and shielded by iron
palings. These treasures are estimated at $17,000,000!
The Horse Armory is contained in a hall 150
feet long and 33 feet wide. In the center, is a line
of equestrian figures, 22 in number, clothed in -the
armor of the various reigns from the time of Edward I. to James II. (1272-1688). When armory
had reached its height, just before the-introduction
of gunpowder, the suits of armor were so heavy
and covered the bodies of the soldiers and horses




98                 LONDON.
so completely, that a knight in full armor looke&
lluch like a turtle sitting upon an armnadillo.  J
saw a suit of armor that weighs 112 pounds, and ~
spear 18 feet in length. In those days physical
strength carried almost everything, while intelli.
gence frequently counted nothing.  Looking a;
those mailed figures makes one almost feel ashamek.
<of his ancestry.  Besides one of the blocks upor
-which were beheaded both the innocent and th(
-guilty in former times, there are also on exhibition'the Collar of Torture, 14 pounds in weight, th'i
tThumb-screw, the Stocks, &c., a collection of in.
"struments of torture well calculated to restore ir
the' mind of the beholder, a vivid picture of thb
dark and wretched past, when man's greatest anc
most dangerous enemy was his brother.  It seemec
then to be the best policy of kings, queens, and o
all noblemen, to get rid of brothers and sisters a:
the earliest convenience!
On our way to Beauchamp Tower, the Prison oc
Anne Boleyn and Lady Jane Grey, we passec
Tower Green, where Anne Boleyn, Lady Jane Gre5
and Catherine Howard, three queens, were be.
headed.
This is the place where King Henry VIII. hac
several of his six wives dispatched, which he cou.l
-not well have got rid of, by divorce.
I had intended to touch in these remarks a num.
ber of other points about London, and especially
the almost boundless resources of England';




LONDON.                  99
wealthy Lords, but I can only present a single example, and must then hurry on with my account;o Continental Europe. The wealthiest nobleman
whose home and dwelling-place I passed, is the
D)uke of Maclew (a Scotchman) whose annual in-:ome i's estimated at ~350,000 or about $1,700,000.
tie lives at White Hall, near Westminster Bridge.




CHAPTER VII.
LONDON TO PARIS.
On Wednesday, July 21st, the eighth lay of;;m
stay in London, I went to Charing Cross Statior
and procured a ticket for Paris. Before leaving
however, I exchanged my English currency fo:
French money. The rate of Exchange is 25 franc;
for one sovereign. The exchange clerk explaine(
to me the relative values of the French coins whicd
I found to be much easier to understand thai
English money.
The table runs thus: 100 centimes equal on(
franc; and 20 francs, one napoleon. The coins are
napoleons, (20f.), 10 franc and 5 franc pieces ii
gold; francs and half-franc coins in silver; and 1(
centime, 5 centime, (the sou), and 1 centime cop
per and nickle coins, though the centime is not ii
general circulation now, being equal to but one
fifth of a cent in our money. It was a great con
solation to me to know that I would understane
the French money perfectly, especially as-I ex
"pected not to be able to speak with anybody ii
Paris, except, now and then, with a stray Germai
or Englishman. Soon after entering the train a
Charing Cross I met a Frenchman (Prof. P. Simond
who could speak English fluently, having occupiec
his time in England in teaching French, and war




LONDON TO PARIS.                101,n his way to Paris to spend his vacation there.
ie offered at once, very kindly, to assist me in Paris,
Lud I felt from that moment that I should be tenbld luckier in making my entry into Paris than I.ad thus far had reason to expecL  The train left
Jondon at 6:35 p. m., and was to make connection
irith a steamer for Calais, (pron. KIl'T), thence by
aail to Paris, reaching the latter place the next
tfternoon. The "through ticket" 3rd Class, from
London to Paris, cost 21 shillings. Distance 262
niles.
Soon after leaving London, I discovered that I
ras surrounded by the family of an English merchant, who, having retired from business, had taken
Uis wife and daughters to make a trip to the Con-;inent, with a view to see France and Germany.
rhIe mother expressed great delight on learning
hat I was an American, remarking that " Americans are not so stiff in their intercourse." It was
iot long. before I felt that I was in a fair position
Xo spend the day and night en route from London to
Paris pleasantly, even if we were to be confined to.he cars and the boat with the exception of a few
hours.
We crossed the Strait of Dover at about midaight, though not unawares!
As I had no fears of getting sea-sick upon the
Strait of Dover, I took my seat -on the deck in
confidence of a pleasant voyage. Mrs. L. soon
asked me whether I did not expect to get sick,




102       THE STRAIT OF DOVER.
stating that she was in great fear of it. I replied
that I hoped our passage was too short for getting
sick, as the waves were not apt to rise very high in
such a narrow strait. But I was mistaken; the
sick were soon moaning in every direction. AMy
gay companions all disappeared except the old
gentleman and his younger daughter.  A large
steamship of 3,000 tons burden would probably
show more dignity, but the little steamer upon
which we had taken passage, was as fiercely
knocked about by the waves, and made fully as
much ado about it, as the old " Manhattan" ever
did in the middle of the Atlantic. The young
lady was keeping close to her father and had already ceased to laugh, when I asked him the last
time about their health. He was well, but the
young lady was also becoming dizzy from the rocking, and turning pale at the terrors of the-sea.' I
hastened: to the cabin below and sought relief in
lying down. Being both weary and giddy I soon
fell into a sleep, from which I did not wake until
we reached Calais.
The train for Paris was not to leave until the next
morning, so I tried to find rest and sleep in the
Waiting Room, but without success. By and by
a gentleman came round and offered to conduct us
to lodging places. I followed him into the city,
through strange streets into a strange house, and
was shown to retire in a strange room. Everything
seemed in its place, however, so that I had no oc



CALAIS.               t10
iasion for feeling uneasy.  The next morning I
-ose at break of cay and took a long walk through,he city of Calais, to look about and see as much
s possible before I had to leave. This was my
irst walk on the Continent of Europe.
I looked about where I might get breakfast, but
is most of the business houses were not yet open,
[ stood a poor chance. Into the saloons I would
not go, as I could not have asked for what I wanted
on account of my inability to speak French; my
only hope, therefore, was to find a shop or store
that displayed in the window what I wanted, so
that I could make my purchase by gestures. I had
provided myself with a Conversational Guide Book,
in London, containing the French, Italian and
German equivalents of English words and phrases.
most necessary to the tourist; but the French pronunciation is so difficult that I could after all not
make myself understood except by pointing out
these French words to the shop-keepers. To give
the reader an idea of what mistakes an American
is apt to make in pronouncing French, I offer the
names of two of the most common articles of food.
They are pain (bread) pronounced pa, and lait
(milk) pronounced 1a. I succeeded, however, later
in the morning, when the shops were generally
open, to procure a breakfast, whereupon, after
having visited a very antique church and examined
the strong fortifications of the city, I started for the
railway station.




104                 CALAIS.
On my way thither I passed the open door of a
saloon in which Mr. and Mrs. L., whose friendship
I had formed the previous day, sat at coffee. It
was a pleasant surprise, and I took my seat with
them, drinking coffee for the benefit of the milk
(diu lait) which I poured into it. This done, Mr.
L. invited me to accompany him to their hotel to
" see what a nice place they had found last night!"
It was a excellant hotel, and as we approached the
beautiful flower-beds which lined the path leading
to the entrance, their daughter came down the
walk, and greeted us, the old gentleman remarking
that they had been inquiring last night what had
become of me. It is very pleasant and agreeable
to fall into such society, and to behold the cloth
spread and the China and glass ware set with an
excellent breakfast (a regular home-fashion scene)
after one has spent several hours in lingual conflicts for a breakfast, and seen nothing but the outside of old weather-beaten houses.
I took my seat with the English party and my
French friend (Prof. P. S.) in the same car, and left
Calais at 7:20 a. m. Everything looked strange
again; even more so than when I first came to
England.  Everybody, except our English company, spoke French, and the cars, the buildings,
and the tickets and conductors, seemed all different
from what I was accustomed to in England. The
houses which we saw from the train, were small
and covered with tiles like those which I had seen




CALAIS TO:PARIS.             105
in northwestern England. We soon passed burial
grounds in which the graves were headed with
crosses, in place of marble slabs, for toiibstones.
Large quantities of peat and the white stone quarpries in the chalk formations, next arrested our atMention. Though it was the 22nd of July, haying
was not yet finished. Some of the farmers were,'however, engaged in reaping both their wheat and
barley. At 8:34 a. m., the English Channel came
again into view. Thus we passed along enjoying
the scenery of "belle France," (beautiful France),
but by and by we became tired of watching landscapes.
To see odd styles of architecture, and watch the
strange ways about a people, may afford a pleasant
diversion for a time; but the eyes, too, become tired
of looking. A-striking feature'about the agriculture is the smallness of many of the fields; there
being no fences, the fields are distinguished by
their crops. Som:e ofthnem are'but several rods in
extent.  The various colors which the different
kinds of vegetables assume in their progress of
growth and ripening, make the landscape look like
an immense expanse of checkered carpet, exceedingly beautiful to behold.
When these scenes seemed no longer to be charming, or we had become too fatigued to appreciate
them, we commenced to amuse ourselves in games,
joking and tricks, of which the traveler sees and
enjoys his fill.




106          CALAIS TO PARIS.
Gamblings which is such a wide-spread social
evil in America, is prohibited or restricted to certain fixed days of the year, in some countries of
Europe; but games of various kinds are played
by the best society, almost everywhere. Notwithstanding all the arguments that may be advanced
in favor of games at chess and back-gammon, as
exercises in mental gymnastics, and of playing
cards as affording pleasant diversion for mixed.
parties, the diligent tourist, like the industrious
student, should not squander much of his time
at it.




CHAPTER VIII.
PARIS.
In the middle of the afternoon, we reached the
Northern Railway Terminus (Embarcadere du Nord)
in Paris. This magnificent station covers nearly
10 acres of ground.: The arrival and departure
sheds in the center are 230. metres long, and 70
metres wide.  (The meter is equal to 39r37079
inches). Its facade is 180 metres long, 38 metres
(about 125 feet) high and consists of a lofty central
arch and two lateral arches. This imposing front
is adorned with twenty-three colossal statues of
noble female figures, representing the following,
principal cities of Europe:  Paris, (surmounting
the central arch), Londres, St. -Petersburg, Berlin,
Frankfort, Vienne, Bruixelles, Cologne, Amsterdam, Donai, Dunkerque, Boulogne, Compeigne, St.
Quentin, Cambrai, Beauvais, Lille, Armiens, Rouen,
Arras, Laon, Calais, Valengiens.  (1864).
There are a number of other very fine railway
stations in Paris, but we can only take room to define their area. The largest is the Strasbourg Railway Terminus, nearly 13 acres in extent; while,
the Western Railway Terminus covers an area of
5 acres.
As soon as our train had stopped, I followed my
French companion (Prof. S.) into the extensive




108                 PARIS.
apartments of the station, and passed muster. I
expected to be asked for my " passport," but slipped
throtigh unchallenged. On-passing out-^into the
yard I was again saluted by my English friends
who were about entering a "bus" to drive to a
hotel. In bidding each other good-by and godspeed on our journeys, I ran a great risk of losing
my Parisian friend, in the great multitude of pecple that thronged the yard and pavement; but fortunately, I found him again in a few minutes.
Before we reached the street, I was already made
to feel that some strange scenes and experiences
were undoubtedly in store for me in Paris and
likely throughout the rest of my continental tour,
for I had already observed one of those strange
social habits of the Parisians in a most public place
which the nice delicacies of our langua.gesand customs forbid to describe.
The French, the Italians, and many of the inhabitants of South Germany and parts of; Switzerland-I should say all the sunny lands in Europe
-have handed down to our day, manners and customs which speak in a language that cannot be
misunderstood, and with a force far louder than a
whisper, that it is not very long since man took to
dressing himself.  In my intercourse with those
people, from  Paris to Egypt, I nowhere observed any baneful influences exerted over morality
by these practices in question, for they are not
thought about by those people which are guilty of




PARIS.                  109
them, but many an American will be shocked at
them, and go home declaring that such indecencies
mwst laq dto immora ities, even.if they have never
gone to the trouble to see whether they actually
do. Their pernicious influence-upon American
tastes and dfanners may be-granted, but that does
not prove;that foreigners wiho are cradled, nursed
and brought up in these customs, will be affected
in like manner. American and English tourists
are alike shocked and provoked at the sight of the
innumerable nude statues and paintings, on the
pleasure gardens and in the art galleries, but the
ladies of the continent seem to see as little of indecencies or improprieties in those things, as we
do in opening our Bibles and seeing saints and
apostles represented with bare feet-the toes standing out naked over the sandals, or when we read
in the family circle and in the public capacity of
teachers and ministers, passages from Scriptures,
suchas no one would be capable of reading if they
were found in a periodical or a newspaper.
During my first month on the continent, I was
often vexed to think that much of what I saw, that
was not only very interesting and impressive, but.which had likewise an important bearing on his-.tory, was of such a nature that it would either constitute unfit material for general diffusion, or seem
to be incredible to the average reader.
We went down Boulevard (pron. Bool'var') de,
Magenta about one-third of a mile, to Boulevard




110                 PARIS.'de Strasbourg, (pron. Straws'boor'), thence along
that avenue (?) to the foot of it (another third of a
mile) and continued our walk down Boulevard de
Sebastopol to Rue de Rivoli, along which latter'
street we went half a mile west, where my friend,
guide and teacher procured for me a room  not far
from his home.'   "'. 
[With this gentleman I spent from three to five;hours daily, during my first stay of fifteen days, in;walking about the city seeing sights and studying
French reading and pronunciation].
As soon as I had taken my room, I retraced my
steps to the railway station and fetched my sachel;
this time, alone. It was not a little task, for the
distance from my quarters, which were near the
center of Paris, to the station, was over two miles.
The names of the Boulevards "Magenta, Strasbourg
and Sebastopol," I was constantly repeating in my
mind, so that I might not forget the way that I had
come with my friend, the first time. It was dark
by the time I reached my lodging place the second
time, but I had seen and learned enough for one
day. Almost two miles of Boulevards and nearly
half a mile of Rue de Ri'voli (the finest;Rue in
Paris) thrice walked that afternoon, had presented
~to me more that was new, than I had expected. to
see in a week.
-      -  - THE BOULEVARDS,
like a dozen other of the distinguishing features of
Paris, are new things to the American; and as they




BOULEVARDS, RUES, &c.                Ill
are quite different from  anything that I have yet
Seen of the kind in this country, I shall here take
room to note some of their striking characteristics.
They are the grandest streets in Paris, sustaining
about the same relation to the "Rues" that the
avenues in our American  cities sustain to the
streets.  In the French nomenclature, the names
applied the different classes of thoroughfares, &c.,
run as follows:  1st., avenues; 2nd., boulevards;
3rd., rues; 4th., allees or ruelles, and 5th., passages
(pron. pahsahjes). In America, the corresponding
terms are 1st., avenues; 2nd.,; 3rd., streets;
4th., alleys, and 5th., passages.  It will be observed,
that we have here nothing to correspond with the
boulevard.  In the classification here presented,
the term  avenue is to designate thoroughfares of
great width and shaded with rows of trees on each
side, as are the avenues in Washington, D. C. In
most American cities, the avenues are diagonal
streets or openings connecting distant points of the
cities, but this definition loses most of its force when
applied to European cities, as they are not built
square or rectangular.
Champs Elysees intersects a fine and extensive
reservation, (haying many of the characteristics of
the pleasure garden), extending from  the Jardin
des Tuileries (Garden of the Tuileries) to the Arc
de Triomphe (the Arch of Triumph).  Its length
is a mile and a quarter, and the garden or park of
which it is the grand thoroughfare, is, in one place,




112                 PARIS.:about a third of a mile in width. The buildings
are consequently a considerable distance off frorm
this carriage-way; but in the boulevards, nothing
except the pavi en ittrinterv ies   between the:i te
and the houses. The boulevards of Paris are its
widest aswell as its noblest streets. The pave-,.ments.on:each side of them, are, in manyinstarces,
from twenty-five to thi rty feet in' width. TLi Jok
rows of large and elegant shade-trees border them
on both sides, and under these are placed numerous
wooden settees for the accommodation of the public. Many of the 6,000 cafes which are strewn over
Paris, grace these boulevards with their glass fronts.:During the summer season, most of the refreshments and meals are served in front of the cafes on
the pavements, and grand is the sight of seeing ten
thousand gay Parisians seated along these splendid
streets, chattering away over their wine and coffee!
Paris is about five miles long by four miles wide,
and few are the houses in the entire city that are
less than five or six stories high. A few only of
the outer streets have as low as four and five story
houses. These houses are mostly built of stone,
having stone floors, even. Each room is arched
over -from the four walls; upon these arches are
placed the flagstones constituting the next floor,
and itis in consequence of this arching that each
story is so very high. The white sandstone of the
Paris basin constitutes the principal building stone.
The city is divided into seven sections, and each




BOU3LEVARDS, HOUSES, &c.             1II
section is required by law, to either scrape the
fronts of their houses once every seven years, so
that the walls look new again, or to paint them
anew. No proprietor can choosehis time, but when
the year is come for his section to repair their
houses, it must be done. In consequence of this
regulation, the streets never look checkered by old
and new houses contrasting with each other, but
the external appearance of the buildings is made
to harmonize, and each street is a unit in appearance. In the finest part of Paris there are few
alleys or stables, but splendid rues and boulevards
lined with  magnificent buildings with elegant
fronts, have taken their places.  This section is
over three miles in length, nearly two in width,.
and presents scenes of beauty, grandeur and magnificence which are unrivaled by anything that the.
first other cities of the world have ever brought.
forth.
Its beautiful balconies, as numerous as the windows, constitute another very charming feature of
Parisian scenery.  The streets are always kept
clean and wet by sweepers and sprinklers, and the
broad smooth pavements along the boulevards, free
from  dust and all manner of rubbish or obstructions, afford a suitable promenade for gayety,
wealth and fashion to roam.  Here beauty's feet
may stray, arrayed in the most showy colors or the
stateliest attire, without fear of encountering nasty
crossings or of being splashed over and soiled by




114                 PARIS.
teams upon muddy streets.  Ladies attired in
gaudy ball-room  dresses with long trails, xwould
scarcely presenta contrast in dress with the average
promenaders. All dress equally well, on Sundays,
and on week-days, so that Paris presents to the
foreigner, the appearance of a city celebrating an
eternal Sabbath. Even when it rains, the pedestrian can walk for miles about the city, without being in want of an umbrella. In that event he
need only confine his course to the
ARCADES AND PASSAGES.
Webster defines an arcade as < A long, arched
-building or gallery lined on each side with shops."
NMay the reader not be misled by this definition;:for the arcades of Paris do not have shops on both,
sides.  They are a uniform  system of porticoes
generally from  twenty to thirty feet in width.
Those on Rue de Rivoli are about a mile in length,
and the houses to which they belong have been
exempted from taxes for thirty years. From these
ramify numerous passages and other arcades, connecting different parts of the city.
A " Passage" (pron. pa-sahj) is a street covered
with a glass roof, elegantly paved, animals and
vehicles excluded or shut off, and lined by the first-;class shops in the city. The most remarkable are
the Passages des Panoramas, Jouffroy, Verdean,
Vivienne, Colbert, Choiseul, Delorine du Saumon,
&c. The first of these are the most brilliant and
are perhaps not excelled orueven equaled by any




GALLERIES.                 115
other in the world, with the solitary exception of
Passage des Victor Emanuel of Milan, in Italy.
Some of these passages are called
GALLERIES.
The Galerie d'Orleans in Palais Royal, is a good
example. This lofty hall, forty feet wide and 300
feet long, extending between a double range of
shops, connects the arcades extending around the
other three sides of the inner court of that palace,
(now turned into shops, bazaars, etc.)
Many of the grand boulevards and rues of Paris
have been built since 1848, and the work of widening and improving old streets and building new
ones is still going on with constantly increasing
vigor.
There, are now in progress of construction, broad
boulevards, which can only be constructed at the
sacrifice of many acres of some of the finest buildings in Paris; but only beauty and grandeur are
regarded anything in this noble city, expenses being
but little estimated. Notwithstanding the lavish
expenditure of money upon this class of improvements, Paris is, of all cities, perhaps the most prosperous on the globe.
Of the wide-spread destruction of public buildings, occasioned by the late war and the stormy
days of the Commune, there are but few marks remaining. The Palace of the Tuileries, Hotel de
Ville, and a few other buildings, lie still in ruins;
but the thirty or more churches which were either




116                 PARIS.
greatly damaged or quite demolished, and numerous
other public edifices that have been destroyed, have
already been restored-some of them with increased
magnificence.  Besides this, the French  have
almost finished paying their immense war-debt,
while America, whose war ended seven years before theirs, is obliged to sail into the centennial
year, still heavily freighted with the obnoxious
burden.
Did heaven ever smile upon a more blessed city
than Paris?  To give the reader an idea of how
buildings are torn down to make room for the purpose of extending fine streets, let us refer to the
statistics concerning Rue de Rivoli.  This street
cost $30,000,000. It is two miles in length, and its
establishment caused the demolition of upwards
of one thousand houses! Thirty millions of dollars,
enough to pay for a tract of land that is twenty
miles long and eleven miles wide, bought at the
rate of $200 per acre; and all this expended on
the improvement of two miles of road!
In the Old World, a strip of three to five or six
story houses, several hundred feet wide and a
quarter of a mile to upwards of a mile in length,
is torn down with as much complacent indifference
concerning the destruction, as men manifest in
mowing so much grass!
As among the most fashionable places in Paris,
may be mentioned, Boulevard des Italiens, Palais
Royal, Champs Elysees, Jardin des Tuileries and




PALAIS ROYAL.                  117
other pleasure gardens and public squares.  Boulevard des Italiens, in fair weather, is densely crowded
with ladies and gentlemen seated on chairs hired
for two to three sous (cents) each.  The city clears
over $7,000 a year from  this source of revenue.
But several hundred steps toward the west of this
street stand the Academie de Musique (the most
splendid opera-house in the world) and the Grand
Hotel-two of the most brilliant edifices in the
city.
PALAIS ROYAL,
as it now  stands, was completed in 1786. This
building, like most of the palaces in Europe, is
built around a quadrangle, and its plan may be
compared to a pupil's slate used for ciphering.
The frame corresponds to the form or ground-plan
of the buildings, and the slate, to the court or-yard
which they inclose. This inner court or garden,
700 feet long and 300 feet wide, containing nearly
five acres of land, is planted with lime (linden?)
trees from end to end, and two flower gardens. In
the middle is a fine jet d'eau (a fountain). "The
garden was thus arranged in 1799; it contains
bronze copies of Diane a la Biche of the Louvre,
and the Apollo Belvedere; two modern statues in
white marble, one of a young man about to bathe,
by d'Espercieux; the other of a boy struggling with
a goat, by Lemoine; Ulysses on the sea-shore, by
Bra; and Eurycice stung by the snake, by Nanteuil, a fine copy in bronze, but more fitted for a




118                 PARIS.
gallery than the place it now occupies. Near this
statue is a solar cannon, which is fired by the sun
when it reaches the meridian, and regulates the
clocks of Palais Royal."
From the privilege of supplying refreshments
and from the hiring of chairs, the Government
derives an annual rent of $7,000.
The shops under the arcades are chiefly devoted
to articles of luxury, and are among the most elegant in Paris. Many restaurants are on the first
floor; here, were formerly the gambling-houses
which rendered this place so notorious. The best
time for visiting Palais Royal is in the evening,
when the garden and arcades are brilliantly illuminated and full of people. The shops of the
watch-makers and the diamond windows are then
particularly brilliant.  In the most magnificent
windows the articles have no price marks; but in
the best windows in which the articles have price
marks, I saw lockets priced $200; rings for $900;
ear-rings for $1,000 a pair; a pair of diamond studs
for $2,800; crosses for $820; and a necklace worth
$3,000..
Palais Royal has been called the capital of Paris.
During the early part of the first Revolution, its
gardens became the resort of the most violent politicians; here, the tri-coloured cockade was first
adopted, and the popular party decided on many
of its bolder measures.
There is little room for doubt, that the Cafe, one




CAFES-COFFEE-HOUSES.               119
of the characteristic features of French society, is a
potent factor in civilizing and refining the human
race, in these latter times. Religion and intelligence-moral ideas, moral habits and the collective knowledge of our ancentors-has been transmitted from one generation to another down to our
time, by the Church and the Schools, principally.
But the affairs of the human race have taken a new
turn since the invention of printing, by which the
steady development of traditional ideas has been
arrested, so that the propriety of retaining the
standards of ancient civilization as patterns for the
present, is being questioned and discussed everywhere.  In this great revolutionary era., the authority of the past and even the respect naturally
due to parents is very generally disregarded. This
latter sad feature of failing to do homage to the
aged, is not more the result of a lack of love and
esteem, on the part of children for their parents,
than of the want of confidence which parents have
in themselves. We can take an illustration from
our young ladies. A few generations ago, the traditional white cap constituted the head-dress of
the young maidens among the catechumens, when
they presented themselves for the first time at the
altar; now, in place of having all the heads look
alike, every head must present a different phase.
We still find sections in the Old World, where all
the dresses of the young are " cut out of the same
piece," so to say, and made after the same pattern,




120   CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES
so that all the individuals of a company are almost
as nearly dressed  alike, as soldiers in  uniform.
Rev. Bausman, in his Wayside Gleanings, page
141, in describing  the appearance of people at
church in a certain section of Gerniany, portrays
one feature in these words: " Very pleasant was
it to see every lady, old and young, having her
hymn book carefully folded in her white handkerchief."  The clergy, and the monks and nuns in
Europe display like uniformity in their dress.  In
every old picture or painting, representing a group
or company of persons, it will be observed that all
the individuals are dressed and combed after the.same fashion.
This incessant yearning and seeking for something new is of recent date, and the key-note of
a universal system  of revolutions.  Every season
brings a new style of dress, and what is true of
fashion is true of everything else. As it woluld ill
become mothers to leave their ia nLily for a time
and learn the milliners' trade, she makes choice of;one of her daughters to be educated in that trade.
This young girl after she has learned dressmaking
takes the place of the mother in the matter of providing clothes for the family, and becomes in a
large measure the mistress of the house.  The same
thing happens to the baking department of the
family. A score of new kinds of pies and cakes have
become fashionable in  our day, and it is the
daughters that have the greatest opportunity to




OF MODERN CIVILIZATION.                 121
earn this baling of pastries the quickest. The conseLuence is that the mother soon turns out to be only.second rate cook!  Fully  aware that she can
either cook nor make dresses, she resigns her
)osition as head of these departments, respectively
o her daughters who, wh en once master of the
-ulinary and millinery, affairs, will soon be master
)f the balance of the household affairs.  Need I
iay that the fathers of this generation are served.bout the same way by their sons?  And it is the
fame between the teacher and the pupil.' Old
bgy teacher"' or " he has the old ways yet" are ex)ressions that are too common to require any exA)anation. Happily, most old teachers have cleared;le turf, and yielded their laurals to a host of
foungsters, ranging in age from  about sixteen to;wenty years! Thus all difficulties are surmounted.n this line, and " Young America" has the reins;o himself! Look at the improvements that have
resulted from  the efforts of inventive genius, and.t the progress that the arts and sciences have
nade.  We are in a new world, so different'from
Lhat of our forefathers, that their experiences count
almost nothing in this new era.  It is a sad picture
to see the young and the inexperienced thus groping in the dark, but it is the inevitable consequence
of the new turn that things have taken since the
inauguration of the age of reason [dating from the
introduction of printing (?)].  Nevertheless, the
young would display much greater prudence, if




122                 PARIS.
they would bring many of their schemes and pur.
poses to a lower temperature by sitting still wher
age rises to speak, and were they to take heed o!
the counsels and admonitions of those who ar(
older than themselves.
This radical change in the affairs of the world
being recognized, it becomes apparent how the
power and influence of the Church and Schools
must abate in a measure, and give scope, for a
season, to a class of institutions more fitted for revolutionary times.. This transition era will likely
be marked as a glacial period in the history of religion, during which time rationalism and infidelity
will possibly be rampant in Europe, if indeed they
do not even establish their dominion in America.
But we may hope for a calm after the storm, when
things will be steadied down again to a smooth and
even flow. In this our time, the transition era,
theaters, operas, cafes and the printing press, will
play a very important part; the press for the
literary public in general, the theaters and operas
for the social benefit of the upper class and the
cafe for the middle and large class, the class which
give shape and  character to the predominant
methods of social evolution.  The first cafe in Paris
was established in 1697 by an Armenian, and like
the establishment of the Hippodrome in New York
by Barnum, was a success from  the beginning.
These institutions increased rapidly in number
under Louis XV., and became the favorite resort




CAFES.                  123
f distinguished individuals. At present, they
bound in every quarter, and justly rank among
ie most remarkable features of the city, being very
enerally decorated with unrivaled costliness and
blendor. Besides coffee, wine, beer and other re-!eshments, they frequently provide breakfast, and
tany of them also dinners and suppers. In 1874,
here were over 6,000 cafes in Paris, doing business
3 the amount of $24,000,000 annually, or an
verage income of $4,000 to each establishment!'he furniture of the cafe and the plan of conductng its business resembles that of our fashionable
ce-cream saloons more than any other establishnent that we are acquainted with. The halls are
urnished with little tables or marble-stands surounded by chairs or costly sofas, and every person
hat enters, is expected to order some kind of drink,r refreshment as soon as he has taken his seat.
loth sexes frequent them alike, and a grand sight
tis to see a brilliant company of ladies and gentlenen sitting in groups and couples about these
georgeously decorated halls, enjoying their wine
Lnd each other's company, thus presenting scenes
)f gayety and festive pleasure that are seldom outried, even in the ball-room and the opera in this
iountry. A band of musicians render music from
in elevated platform all evening, and an open space.n front of the platform is provided for the accomnodation of those who delight in the dance. The
waiting girls of these cafes are usually ladies of re



124                  PARIS.
markable beauty and refinement, whose elegan
dresses, graceful manners and rare accomplishmen
in conversation and address, are well in keepinl
with the charming brilliancy of the hall, and th,
merry and refined company around them.
It is astonishing how cheap these splendid.ac
commodations of the cafe, almost princely in thei:
style, can be rendered.  A person may enter a caf(
early in the evening, sit down with his friends ano
acquaintances, order a glass of wine or beer and
enjoy the best zmusic and the pleasures of the mosi
refined society for an hour or two, and when he
leaves, his purse is only from  three to eight cents
the poorer for it.  A gentleman may take a lady
to the cafe five evenings in a week, for between
thirty cents and a dollar.  He may spent twice as
much or even ten or fifty times as much, if he
wishes to spend his time in a building whose very
window sashes and external ornamentations glitter
with gold; but such a lavish expenditure of money
is not requi red to be comfortable and happy.  These
cafes are very orderly houses.  It is not fashionable
to consume a glass of wine or beer in less than
half an hour, and many drink the whole evening
at one glass. No one can get drunk at this rate,
and any one who would drink fast and should become wild, he would not be tolerated in the cafe,
as no lady would remain in his society.
There are somne fast drinking-houses even in
Punris, and more in some sections of Germany, but




CAFES.                   125
Ven those sent few or no drunk men upon the.reets. A fellow that would stagger upon the pavelent would be conducted to the station house at
nce. I did not see a single drunk person in Paris
n half a month's stay, and only several in the rest
f my tour through Europe.  It is an encouraging
ign of the times, that the cafe is being introduced
a America.  May it soon take the place of our
ambling-halls  and  drinking-hells.  See what
lacaulay says of the Cafe, as he is quoted by Webter in his Unabridged Dictionary under the word
coffee-house.
CHAMPS ELYSEES,
Champs Elysees} (pron. Shangs-ai-le-zai), a term
quivalent to " The Elysian Fields" of the Greeks,
s perhaps the most charming place in the world.:t is a paradise in reality, as its names implies;
mnd during the summer evenings, when its many
housand gas jets blaze in globes of various colors,
Lnd the magnificent illuminations of its grand cafes
)roduce a brilliancy of coloured light intense
enough to see pins on its walks and flower-beds,
he scenes become grand beyond description.  Imnense throngs of people gather around the cafes in
he evening to see the youths and beauties whirl
n the mazy dance, and listen to the bewitching.trains of the sweet music there rendered. It is
lot a rare thing to see spectators go into raptures
)n these occasions, for I have seen few places where
lature and art so harmonize and unite in produc



126                 PARIS.
ing scenes of enchanting beauty and creating fee
ings of ecstatic delight, as here on Champs Elysee
The atmosphere of Paris, too, is preeminently so
and balmy, and the temperature so even that ladei
may sit in the most brilliant attire all evening i
the open air under the trees of this pleasure-gardel
without the least danger of contracting a cold. On
of the first evenings that I enjoyed these scenes (
indescribable beauty, I could not help but.observ
to my companion, that the finest poetical descril:
tions of a celestial Paradise, were not ideal repr(
sentations of imaginary pleasures, but true word
images of the joys and beauties of the "Elysiai
Fields" (Champs Elysees) in Paris.
The buildings which front upon this lovely plac
are among the most elegant in the city, beinl
finely painted, even on the outside, like those i]
the boulevards.  I saw one, whose balconies wer
all gilt, from the bottom to the attic story, remind
ing one of the splendor of the foremost royal man
sions.
Palais de l'Elysee, lies contiguous to this place
and gave origin to its name. It was a favorite resi
dence of Napoleon I. When he returned fron
Elba, he occupied it until after the defeat of Water,
loo. It was also the official residence of Napoleor
III. while he was President of the French Repub
lie.  At present it is occupied by Marshal Mac
Mahon during the recesses of the National As.
sembly.




CHAMPS ELYSEES.                 127:In about the center of Champs Elysees, is the'alais de l'Industrie, the great Exhibition Buildnigs, in which the World's Fair was held in 1855.
The Avenue des Champs Elysees intersects
Ahamps Elysees, and is a mile and a quarter in
ength. Its foot-pavements are twelve feet wide.
Phis is the favorite walk of the gay Parisians.
"On sunny winter-days, or cool summer-eveIings numerous parties of all classes are seen, enoying the lively spectacle before them, seated on
Lron chairs hired for three or four sous, (cents), or
11 the wooden benches placed at intervals on the
sides of the avenue, while elegant carriages roll in
procession  along  the road." - Galignani's Paris
Guide.
Place de la Concorde, called Place de la Revolution in 1792, (when the guillotine was erected here),
is at the east end of Chatips Elysees, adjoining the
Jardin des Tuileries. The-square is enclosed with
balustrades, upon which stand eight colossal statues
of the chief provincial cities.  In the center of it
stands the Obelish of Luxor.  This magnificent
monument of ancient Egypt, was brought to Paris
in 1833 and erected in 1836. It weighs 250 tons,
and to transport it from Thebes to the place where
it now stands required three years. It is one of
two monoliths that stood in front of the great
temple of Thebes, where they were erected 1550
years before Christ.  Both of them  were given to
the French Government, by Mehemet Ali, Viceroy




128                  PARIS.
of Egypt, " in consideration of advantages conferre(
by France on Egypt in aiding to form the arsena
and naval establishment of Alexandria."  On]b
one was removed. It is 72 feet 3 inches high.  It"
greatest width is 7 feet 6 inches at the base, and 
feet 4 inches at the top. The pedestal upon whici
it stands, is 15 feet by 9 feet at the bottom  and 
feet at the top, and weighs 120 tons.
The transportation and re-erection of this obelisli
cost the French Government about $400,000. A
dear present! No wonder that they did not go t(
fetch the other one.
Galignani enumerates the following events whicl
occurred here and rendered the Place de la Concorde famous:
"July 12, 1789.-A collision between Prince dc
Lambesc's regiment and the people became the
signal for the destruction of the Bastille.
Jan. 21, 1793.-Louis XVI. suffered death on this
place.
From  Jan. 21, 1793, to May 3, 1795, more than
2,800 persons were executed here by the guillotine.
Feb. 23, 1848. —he  first disturbances that
ushered in the memorable revolution of that year
took place here.
Feb. 24, 1848,-Flight of Louis Philippe and his
family by the western entrance of the Tuileries
Garden.
Nov. 4, 1848.-The Constitution of the Republic
was solemnly proclaimed here, in the presence of




JARDIN DES TUILERIES.             129;he Constituent Assembly.
Sept. 4, 1870.-The downfall of Napoleon III.
ind the Third Republic proclaimed, after the disister of Sedan.
May 22, 1871.-A desperate conflict between the
Versailles troops and the Communists, the latter
in their retreat setting fire to public and private
buildings."
JARDIN DES TUILERIES,
A pleasure-garden over fifty acres in extent (containing flower-beds, an extensive orangery, trees,
tatues and fountains) intervenes between Place de
aConcorde and the Palace of the Tuileries, and,
in connection with Champs Elysees, constitutes a
continuous garden and park whose total length is
over a mile and three quarters.
This magnificent reservation penetrates almost
to the heart of the city. Its width is in one place
nearly half a mile, being about one fifth of a mile
wide at the Tuileries on the east, while it tapers
down to about 450 feet (the width of Avenue des
Champs Elysees) at the Arch of Triumph on the
west end of it. The Avenue des Champs Elysees
and the principal avenue in the Tuileries Garden
are in a perfectly strait line, so that a person standing in the center of the avenue at the Tuileries will
see both sides of the Arch of Triumph, nearly two
miles away from him; while the center is concealed
from his view by the Obelisk of Luxor standing in
the center of Place de la Concorde, as above des



130                PARIS.
cribed. Stepping a few yards to either side throws
the obelisk out of the way and affords one a perfect view of that noble arch (one of the most stately
monuments in existence). The tourist can hot approach that imposing monument called
ARC DE TRIOMPHE DE L'ETOILE
to greater advantage than by this avenue, starting
out from the ruins of the Tuileries. As some of
the finest scenes and most important places in
Paris are met with, by this approach, one should
allot a whole day to this walk. He will have half a
mile to the obelisk in the center of Placede la
Concorde, which, with its surroundings, will require him  hours to see.  Three thousand feet
further, is the Rond Point of Champs Elysees. A
quarter of a mile short of this, he will have found
the Exhibition Buildings on his left and Palais de
l'Elysees on his right. Having seen these, he may
make his approach of the Arch of Triumph without further interruption. From Rond Point to the
center of the arch, it is about 3,800 feet more. It is
only after the visitor comes within half a mile of
its base that the monument begins to assume its
gigantic proportions. This proud monument was
designed by Chalgrin, having been decreed by
Napoleon I. in 1806. The work was suspended
from 1814 till 1823; labor was resumed then, but
it was not completed before 1836. Thus, thirty
years of time and over $2,000,000 were bestowed
upon the erection of this historic monument, which




ARCH OF TRIUMPH.                131
is perhaps destined to hand down to future generations both the names of the victors and of the
numerous vanquished cities that were subject to
the authority of Napoleon I. The great central
arch is forty-five feet wide and ninety feet high,
over which rises a bold entablature and the crowning attic. The transversal arch is twenty-five feet
wide a3 d fifty-seven feet high. The total height of
the monument being 152 feet; and its breadth and
depth 137 feet and 68 feet respectively. The fronts
of the structure are towards Champs Elysees, and
Porte de Neuilly, the city gate near Bois de Boulogne.
The general plan of this imposing monument is
borrowed from that of the famous arches at Rome;
but the transversal arch is an additional feature,
while its reliefs, and inscriptions, and its colossal
proportions throw the arches of Rome into comparative insignificance. The interior sides of the
piers are inscribed with the names of ninety-six
victories; under the transversal arches are the
names of generals. A group upon the northern
pier of the eastern front represents the departure
of the army in 1792:-" The Genius of War summons the nation to arms."  The group on the
southern front represents the triumph of 1810:Victory is in the act of crowning Napoleon. History
with pencil in hand is about to record his deeds
upon a tablet before her; conquered towns are at
his feet. Fame surmounts the whole, blowing her
bugle of praise. The group on the southern pier




132                  PARIS.
of the western front represents the French nation's
resistance to the invading army of 1814:-A young
man defends his wife, his children and his father;
a warrior falls slain from his horse, and the Genius
of the Future encourages them  to action.  Upon
the northern pieris represented the peace of 1815:The warrior sheathes his sword, the farmer has
caught a bull with a rope, and is taming him  for
purposes of agriculture, while a mother with her
children is sitting by, and Minerva sheds her protecting influence over them. Every group is 36
feet in height and each figure 18 feet.
A chain fence encircles this proud and noble:monument, and shuts off all conveyances.  Pedes-trians can enter until dusk. An ascent of 272
steps brings the visitor to the platform  at the top,
from  which one of the finest views of Paris and
the surrounding country may be enjoyed.
There are three other triumphal arches in Paris.
The oldest is that of Porte St. Denis.  It was
erected by the city of Paris in 1672. The principal
arch is 25 feet wide, and 43 feet high; and the
total height of the structure is 72 feet.  Its reliefs
and other representations are superb.
The triumphal arch over Porte St. Martin is 54
feet wide by 54 feet high. The central arch is 15
feet wide by 30 feet in elevation. It was built in
1674, two years after the erection of Porte St. Denis.
The last of the three inferior arches was erected
b1y order of Napoleon in 1806. It has a base of 60




TRIUMPHAL ARCHES.                133
feet by 20 feet, and is 45 feet high. The cost of
erection was about $275,000. It stands near the
Tuileries at the Place du Carrousel, after which it
was named, and which was so called from a great
tournament held by Louis XIV. in 1662. The entablature is supported by eight Corinthian columns
of marble, with bases and capitals of bronze,
adorned with eagles. The attic of this arch is surmounted by a figure of Victory in a triumphal car
with four bronze horses hitched to it. These were
modelled by Bosio from  the celebrated historic
horses which Napoleon brought from Venice to
Paris in 1797, but which were restored by the allies
in 1815, and now stand again in the Piazza of St.
Mark at Venice, as they had since 1205. The
original (those in Venice) are gilt, but those in
Paris are black.
THE TOMB OF NAPOLEON I.
The tomb and last burial place of the great Napoleon, which is in Eglise des Invalids, is perhaps
the most imposing monument of the kind in the
world. I have not found its equal anywhere; nor
anything to rival it even, in costliness and splendor,
except those of several of the Popes at Rome. The
tomb which covers the sarcophagus into which the
mortal remains of Napoleon I. brought from  St.
Helena, were placed April 2nd, 1861, consists of a
immense monolith of porphyry weighing 67 tons,
brought from Lake Onega in Russia at an expense
of $28,000. This tomrb, 13- feet in height, stands in




134                 PARIS.
the center of a circular crypt, and is surrounded by
twelve colossal statues representing so many victories. The pavement of the crypt contains a crown
of laurels in mosaic, and a black circle upon which
are inscribed the names of the following victories:
Rivoli, Pyramids, Marengo, Austerlitz, Iena, Friedland, Wagram  and Moskowa. A large bouquet
of immortelles (everlasting flowers) lying upon the
tomb is emblamatic of the immoritality of the great
soldier's fame. Over the bronze door which leads
to the crypt, are inscribed the following words,
quoted from the Emperor's will:
"Je desire que mes cendres reposent sur les
bordes de la Seine, au milieu de ce peuple Francais
que j'ai tant aime."
" I wish my remains to be laid on the banks of
the Seine, amongst that French people whom  I
have loved so much."-P. Simond.
In the center of an adjoining chapel, stands the
tomb of Joseph, King of Spain, the eldest brother
of Napoleon I. His mortal remains were brought
hither in 1864.
The dome which rises over the tomb of Napoleon
I. is one of the proudest monuments in Paris, and
its gilt and glittering cupola may be seen many
miles around. The cross on top of the globe and
spire surmounting this dome is 323 feet above the
pavement. Leaving Eglise des Invalids from the
southern entrance, which leads to the tomb of Napoleon I., a spectacle presents itself to the beholder




ARTESIAN WELLS.                135'in the form-of a grand fountain throwing its water
high into the air. It is at
THE ARTESIAN WELL OF GRENELLE.
M. Mulot commenced to bore at this well in
1834, but did not succeed in reaching water until
February 26th, 1841, by which time his boring instrument had reached the depth of 1,800 feet, and
the water suddenly gushed forth with tremendous
force. The whole depth is lined by a galvanized
iron tube that is 21 inches in diameter at the top
and 7 inches at the bottom. The. amount of water
yielded every 24 hours is 170,940 gallons. Its
temperature is about 82 degrees Fahrenheit.
Twenty years after the sinking of this well, that
is in 1861,
THE ARTESIAN WELL OF PASSY,
near-the Arch of Triumph, was completed. This
yielded at first 5,000,000 gallons in 24 hours; it
yields now over.3,000,000 gallons per day. Athird
artesian well is in Boulevard de la Gare.
There are, besides these artesian wells, 35 monumental fountains, 88 plain fountains and over 2,000
water-plugs in the city.
NOTRE, DAME..
The Cathedral Church of Notre Dame is the
grandest church of the rose-window class that I
met with in my whole tour of Europe.  the length
of this edifice is 390 feet, and its greatest width at
the transepts 144 feet. It is said to be capable of
holding 21,000 persons. The nave is 225 feet long,




136                 PARIS.
39 feet wide and 102 feet in height to the vaulting;
the windows are 36 feet high.  Its two western
towers are each 204 feet high, and the spire about
270 feet. The first thing that arrests the attention
of the visitor on approaching it, are the grotesque
figures of its antique gargoyles, several hundred
in all, which give the church a very odd appearance. The three portals (at the west end) contain about 300 images. Its organ is 36 feet broad,
45. feet high and contains 3,484 pipes. But among
the most remarkable features of this magnificent
cathedral are its splendid rose-windows, representing a variety of scripture and legendary subjects,
and its choir and sacristy. Here, are mitres and
crosses glittering with jewels, and the church-utensils and vestments. The most gorgeous are the
robes worn by Pius VII. at the coronation of Napoleon I., and several series of brilliant robes profusely embroidered in silver and gold. It seems
that the place upon which Notre Dame now stands;
was first occupied by a heathen temple erected in
the time of the Romans; for, among nine large
stones dug up in 1711, one bears the effigy of the
Gallic deity Hesus, and the other was a votive
altar raised to Jove.
THE PANTHEON.
About half a mile distant from the island of the
Seine upon which Notre Dame stands, on an eminence south of the river, is located the Pantheon,
or.church of St. Genevieve. This building cost




THE PANTHEON.                137
$6,000,000. The six fluted columns of its portico
are 6 feet in diameter and 60 feet high. The whole
number of Corinthian columns in and about this
superb edifice is 258. The arched ceilings of the
interior are 80 feet high. The dome is 66 feet in
diameter and its height from the pavement to the
top is 268 feet. I have seen no other dome in
Europe that resembles so closely the dome on the
Capitol of the United States, both on account of its
fine illumination by natural light, and in its general design. One section of the frescoes in the
canopy of the dome on our national capitol, represents the deification of Washington. In the dome
of the Pantheon at Paris, Clovis, Charlemagne, St.
Louis and Louis XVIII., are represented as rendering homage to Ste. Genevieve, who, descends to-o
wards them on clouds, and. Glory embraces Napoleon. - n the heavenly regions are represented,
Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette, Louis XVII,
and Madame Elizabeth.
In 1791, Mirabeau was interred here with great
pomp, and in the same year took place, the celebrated apotheoses (deifications) of Voltaire -and
Rousseau. The remains of Mirabeau and of Marat
were afterwards depantheonized, and the body of
the latter was thrown into a common sewer.
The vaults are under the western nave. In these
the " monuments and funeral urns are arranged:
like the Roman tombs in Pompeii."  There are
two concentric passages in the center, where small




138                  PARIS.
sounds are repeated by loud echoes. A hand holding a torch issues from one side of Rousseau's tomb,
meaning that he is a light to the world even after
death.
LA MADELEINE
is the third and the last of the large churches of
Paris to which I can direct particular attention.
It is 328 feet long by 138 feet wide, covering over
an acre of ground, and ics erection cost over
$2,500,000.  This structure was commenced in
1764, but the work was suspended during the revolution of 1789.  Napoleon had once directed
Vignon to complete it for a Temple of Glory, but
Louis XVIII. restored it to its original destination
in 1815. It is approached at each end by a flight
of 28 steps, (the same number that constitute the
Scala Sancta at Rome), extending along the-whole
length of the-facade; and a Corinthian colonnade
of 52 columns, each 49 feet high and five feet in
diameter, surrounds it on every side.
There are scores of other churches in Paris that
are interesting on account of the various styles of
architecture which they represent, but I will only
make mention of one more, and that on account of
its terrible historical associations. It is the church
of St. Germain l'auxerrois (pron. sang jer-mang lozher-wa). It was from the belfry of this church,
that the signal was given for the commencement
of the Massacre of St. Bartholomew, August 23rd,
1572. Its bells tolled during the whole of that




THE LOUVRE.                  139
dreadful night. This church was the theater of
another outbreak on the 13th of February, 1831,
when everything within the church was destroyed.
THE LOUVRE.
The reader may form an idea of the extent of
these buildings, when he reflects that the space
covered and inclosed by the Old and New Louvre
and the Tuileries, is upwards of sixty acres. The
court of the louvre is one of the finest in Europe,
and its art galleries are among the richest in the
world. The Long Gallery alone covers nearly an
acre and a quarter, being 42 feet wide and 1,322
feet long! A person can well spend weeks or even
months in the museum of the Louvre, but simply
to walk through all of its brilliant galleries will require about three hours! I cannot stop to say
more than that its collections of paintings and of
sculpture is probably much larger than any other
in the world.
Besides what I have already described and
enumerated, Paris has its Bois de Boulogne containing large botanical and zological gardens, three
race courses, the longest nearly two miles in circuit, lakes and drives; also many other gardens,
squares, towers, columns, &c.-all full of beauty
or interesting on account of the historical events
and incidents associated with them; but I must
now devote the remainder of my space to the
THEATERS, OPERAS
and other places of amusement of the great capital




140                  PARIS.
of the social world.  Places of amusement are the
leading feature of Paris, and a boundless variety.
adapted to the wants and tastes of every class oJ
society, are strewn in endless profusion all over the
city.  The concert season lasts almost all the yeat
round, though the highest class are limited to the
winter and  spring.  Masked balls take place
throughout the Carnival, in the winter season, and
are thus spoken of and described by Galignani:
" The most amusing are at the Opera-house, where
they begin at midnight and continue till daybreak.
No stranger who visits Paris at this season of the
year should omit a visit to one of the Bals masques
atthis theater, for it is difficult to imagine a scene
more curious and fantastic than that presented in
the Salle of the Grand Opera at a Carnival -Ball.
On these nights the pit is boarded over and joins
the stage; the vast area of. the whole theater forming a ball-room of magnificent proportions, which,
brilliantly lighted, and crowded with thousands of
gay maskers attired in every variety of colour and
costume, forms a sight not easily forgotten. Ladies
should not go except as spectators in a box and
under the protection of their relatives. The ticket
costs $2.00. To witness this scene in perfection the
visitor should wait until 12 or 1 o'clock, when the
company is completely assembled and the votaries
of the dance are in full activity.  On entering the
vast salle at such a moment the effect is scarcely
imaginable, the gorgeousness of the  immense




MASKED  BALLS.                  141
heater, the glitter of the lights, the brilliancy and
rariety of the costumes, the enlivening strains of
nusic, the mirth of the browd, and, above all, the;he untiring velocity with which the dancers whirl;hemselves through the mazes of the waltz, polka
nd mazourka, present an appearance of bewinderLng gayety not to be described.      * *  *  *  On
some occasions of special enthusiasm the crowd
Lake up the leader of the orchestra with the most
frantic plaudits, and in more than one instance
have carried him  in triumph round the theater.
It is scarcely necessary to add that at these balls
the roue (profligate) may find an endless variety of
pleasant adventures."  On some days during the
Carnival, crowds of masked persons, exhibiting all
sorts of antics, appear in the streets, and people assemble on horseback, in carriages and on foot, to
witness the scene.
" The Carnival was prohibited in 1790, and not
resumed till Bonaparte was elected first consul."
Great was the joy of the Parisians when the Carnival was again restored!
The Opera-house referred to in the extract above
quoted, is the Academic Nationale de Musique, or
French Opera-house, also sometimes called the new
Opera-house.  It is generally admitted to be the
finest Opera-house in the world. The space covered
by this magnificent building is 140 metres by 122,
(about 470 feet by 410), or nearly four and a half
acres.  It has seats for 2,520 spectators.  The stair



142                 PARIS.
cases, walls and ceiling are of the finest marble.
The " house" for the spectators or audience is built
entirely of stone and ironu rich in decorations and
thick with gold. The stage alone is a quarter of
an acre in extent, being 128 feet wide by 85 feet
long. Below the stage there is a depth of 47 feet,
from which the scenes are drawn up all in one
piece. This abyss below the stage was obtained
at an immense cost, as the architect had to lay the
foundations far below a subterranean body of water,
but the advantage thus gained enables them  to
present scenes that are marvelous. " The singers
in this opera are pupils of the Conservatoire, and
the corps de ballet consists of the most distinguished
dancers of the day. Great attention is paid to costunme and general effect." During the matchless
performances of a night that I was present, there
were at one time nine large horses and a procession
of several hundred actors upon the stage, and it
was far from being full. One of the most beautiful and astounding performances of the night was
the production of a series of transformations that
were as sudden and as astonishing in their developments as is the metamorphosis of the gaudy butterfly from the groveling worm. As the curtain rose
there stood upon the stage a mighty fortress, massive and strong. We had seen it but long enough
to observe how thick and how rough from age its
weather-beaten walls were, when there was heard
a crash, and the mighty citadel had fallen out of




THE NEW  OPERA.                143
sight; but there still remained a most beautiful
castle which must have been contained inside of
the citadel but hid from the view by its towering
walls. This castle was beautiful beyond description. It was fairer far than the castles of the kings
seem to be, except when " distance lends enchantment to their view."  But the second scene was as
ephemeral as the first. We beheld its fascinating
beauties only a few seconds when its four walls
again dropped into the abyss below, and there issued from its inner apartment a host of beautiful
little actresses such as I did not see upon any other
stage in Europe. These little fairy-like beauties,
many perhaps not more than from 5 to 10 years of
age, all dressed in the most brilliant costumes, at
once skipped into a dance " running the ring and
tracing the mazy round," to the great satisfaction
of the admiring spectators, who were as much delighted by the gayety, grace and accomplishment
which they displayed in their performances, as
they have been astonished at their sudden and
almost miraculous appearance.
AT A BALL.
Dancing is the favorite amusement in Paris, and
these exercises are conducted on a grand scale, even
during the summer season. I attended a Public
Ball one evening, when almost the entire floor
(covering nearly three fourths of an acre) and the
adjoining garden of about the same area, were:
thronged by thousands of gay and jovial dancers>




144.PARIS.
all wild from the excitement produced by the rhythmical motions and music of that playful exercise.
INCIDENTS.
The reader can not be more curious to know how
one that is unacquainted with the French language
can get along in Paris, than I was when I first took
up my residence there. The first morning I went
out to seek some place where I might get fresh
milk; Lait is the French name of it as I found it
in my conversational guide book. I soon found
that name upon a card of pasteboard hanging at
the door of a shop where bread and fruits were displayed in the window. On entering the store a
clever Frenchman politely addressed me, but he
soon discovered that I was none of the loquacious
kind, in French. I asked for lait, pronouncing the
word as if it was spelt I-a-t-e, but he did not understand me. I could adorn my conversation neither
with verbs nor with adjectives, so I repeated the
word lait several times with the rising inflection,
by which he readily inferred that I wanted something, though what that something was, remained
a mistery to him, all the same.  By and by, I
pointed out the word lait to him, on seeing which,
he exclaimed "-   -   du la!" and gave me what
I wanted. Thereafter I visited him from two to five
times every day, according to convenience, to get
my " du lait!". Of"'du pain" (bread) and smoked
sausages, I constantly kept a supply in my satchel,
so that when I entered a new city, I could well




PERSONAL INCIDENTS.              145
get along until I had become acquainted. Fruits
and a very healthy and nutricious kind of nuts,
(the Brazilian nuts), I bought in great abundance
and exceedingly cheap from such as hawked them
about on the streets. Five to ten centimes (1 to 2
cents) would buy 7 or 8 large Brazilian nuts and
6 to 8 fine juicy pears, or as many delicious plums,
of which I was extremely fond. By thus reducing
the number and variety of my dishes at the regular
meals, I only enhanced the pleasures of the palate
instead of reducing them; for he who " does not
eat but when he is hungry, nor drink-except when
he is thirsty," will enjoy the humblest meal much
more than the pampered dedauchee can relish the
richest feast. As beer does not please my palate,
and because the water fountains of Paris were often
out of my reach when I was thirsty, I soon took
fruit to supply the place of drink, and thus, in Paris
already, I laid the foundation of a dietary system
that ensured me not only health, happiness and
convenience of procuring it alike in all countries,
but that proved to be very economicaltoo. Forfrom
40 to 60 cents a day, I supplied all the necessaries,
and more of the luxuries of life, than most of us
are accustomed to, even in voluptuous America.




CHAPTER IX.
VERSAILLE S.
On my voyage across the Atlantic, I had formed
the friendship of a young clergyman, (Rev. 0.),
of New York, who wished to make a summer
vacation tour through western Europe, visiting Ireland, Scotland, England, France, Italy, Switzerland and Germany. On comparing programmes,
we noticed that he would likely come to Paris during the time that I had alotted to that city. We
therefore agreed that each should drop a letter to
the other, immediately after reaching Paris, so that
he who should happen to come last might at once
know where to find the other. One evening, when
I came home, the card of Rev. 0., my American
friend, was handed to me by the landlord, who informed me by his gestures that he had been there
to call on me. The card was backed by a note
asking me to meet him at No. -, Rue
-. Though that street is perhaps not more
than an eighth of a mile long, I soon found it upon
my map of Paris, which was a very excellent one,
as the maps of all large foreign cities generally are
and must be, in order that persons who cannot
speak the languages of those cities, may still be able
to find any places without asking any one where
they are or which way to go. The map of Paris,




PARIS TO VERSAILLES.             147
for example, is divided into numerous squares by
arbitrary lines. Those which run vertically down
the map are lettered, and those which cross it
horizontally are numbered. At the side of the map
is a table of all the streets, with references to the
squares on the map, designating between what lines
they are found, or which they intersect. By the
aid of such a map, I started out the next morning
to meet my friend, whose quarters were in a distant part of the city, about three miles away. I
found him without difficulty.  He was accompanied by two gentlemen from London that had
come with him to see Paris and its environs. It
is both novel and pleasant for two such lonely pilgrims as my New York friend and I were when we
left home, to meet each other again in a foreign
city, and introduce to each other the friends which
one picked up by the way. We soon agreed to go
all together to Versailles, the French Capital, that
day. This was Tuesday, July 27th. At 10:40 a.
m., we crossed the fortifications of Paris, and soon
came into view of Bois de Boulogne, the great park
of Paris. Five minutes later we crossed the Seine
at St. Cloud, a small town, where we stopped to
see the ruins occasioned by the siege of Paris in
1870. We had considerable trouble, however, in
identifying the strongholds and redoubts held by
the Prussians in that memorable siege, as nobody
seemed to understand any of our French! On one
occasion, Rev. 0., while asking a lady fora cer



148              ST. CLOUD.
tain place, called on Mr. K, one of tie Londoners, to come and see whether he could make'
this woman understand any of his French! It
was altogether a day of odd adventures and fun.
After enjoying the lovely prospects an hour, we
walked another hour in great perplexity as to
what directions we should take to find a railway
station where we might take a train for Versailles,
but finally succeeded. We did not understand
more from those who directed us, than the direction we should take, never knowing the distance.
It is more than a joke, for a party to be obliged to
walk several miles for a station, when they had expected to reach it in a quarter or half a mile at
most! When we arrived at the station at Sevres,
our difficulties only commenced.' When will the
next train leave for Versailles, and where can we
procure our tickets?" were questions which engaged our best energies and all our ingenuity for
half an hour, besides a rash adventure on my part,
before they were solved. (It seems to me now,
that throughout my tour, I always got into more
trouble when I had company to rely upon, than
when I was alone). By means of motions with
our hands and by pronouncing the name Versailles,
we made them understand where we intended to
go to; but when we asked for "billets," they did
not offer us any. They showed us, however, that
the train was due at 1:10, by pointing out those
figures on the dial of the clock. About 15 minutes




PARIS TO VERSAILLES.             149
before the train was due, we asked again for tickets,
and when they were again refused, we began to fear
that the tickets had to be procured on the opposite
side of the railroad. We therefore crossed by a
foot-bridge near the station, but could not approach
the house on the other side, on account of the high
fence which shut every body off from the tracks.
When our plans were thus frustrated our company
became alarmed with the fear that we might miss
the train for want of tickets, and fail to see Versailles that day. At this crisis I ascended the
bridge and climed down along the walls on the inside of the fence; suspending mycelf from  the
lowest iron bars along the bridge, I thus dropped
myself into the yard below! But our discouragement reached its climax, when I found that the
door was closed and locked, which we had hoped
was the ticket office. I could not get out of that
inclosure, as the fences were high, the gates locked
and the bridge from which I had dropped myself,
was out of my reach. Several railroad men saw
me immediately, who appeared as much astonished
at my coming into that place, as I was perplexed
in my awkward position. I did not misinterpret
their French this time, however, for the way they
looked up toward the sky, and their gestures and
chattering, plainly indicated that they wondered
where I came from. I motioned them that I came
"from  above," and pointed toward the bridge.
What fine or punishment might have been inflicted




150             THE PALACE.
for my intrusion I- do not know, but I was only
rebuked in language which I did not understand,
and sent out through one of the office doors which
they unlocked for the purpose. My companions
were now in great glee at this termination of my
adventure, one of them observing that I might soon
be landed in close quarters, at my present rate of
progress! I responded that we were a party corporate, and that three fourths of what any one did
was to the credit of the other three.  The train
soon came, and we took our places on the top of
the cars and rode on to Versailles. This was the
only ride I had in two-story railway cars, but our
trip was such a delightful one in the second story
of those cars, that I often wished for like accommodations again.
The National Assembly was in session when we
reached Versailles, but we could not gain admittance. We immediately went to the Palace, which
is devoted to the reception of a rich and splendid
historical museum unparalleled in Europe. There
are altogether some 34 salles or galleries, which require upwards of an hour to walk through. The
paintings are arranged chronologically, and it is
this classification, as well as the magnitude of the
collection, that render the museum one of the most
famous in Europe. Adjoining this palace, are the
gardens and. park, upon the establishment and improvement of which, Louis XIV., (1616) spent
$200,000,0001  This immense sum would pay a




VERSAILLES.                 151
tract of land 100 miles long and 10 miles wide,
bought at $300 per acre! Many millions have since
been spent upon it. It is at the present day one
of the finest pleasure-gardens in Europe. Its fountains are among the most magnificent in existence.
These are made to play only once (the first Sunday) every month; to supply the water in sufficient
aboundance for this magnificent display, costs on
each occasion $2,000! It is a source of the purest
happiness for a party of Republicans, as ours was,
to see the very palace and gardens which Napoleon
III. once occupied as a royal mansion, now held
as the common property and the peaceful promenade of the pleasure-seeking masses. How changed.
the scene! That which was prepaired for the king,
is now enjoyed by the common people. Such are
the fruits of the French Republic, which has now
broken the fetters of royalty for the third time.
On Sunday, August 1st., I visited this garden..
and park again, this time to see the fountains play.
It is impossible to do justice to this pleasure-garden
even in two days. In the center is the grand canal
186 feet wide and nearly a mile long, intersected
at right angles by another canal that is 3,000 feet
long. My rambles were confined to the section intervening between  the palace and the Bassin
d'Apollon, which is at the nearer end of the Grand
Canal. The fountains and jets in this section,
north and south of the Allee du Tapis Vert (green
lawn), are almost innumerable. They do not all




152      THE PLEASURE-GARDEN.
play at the. same time, so the crowd can follow
them from basin to basin until Neptune with his
numerous jets, the last and the greatest of them all,
is reached. The Terrasse du Chateau with Silenus,
Antinous, Apollo and Bacchus, after the antique,
lies next to the palace. Immediately below is the
Parterre d'Eau, upon whose border repose twentyfour magnificent groups in bronze, namely, eight
groups of children, eight nymphs and the four
principal rivers of France, with their tributaries.
Toward the left of this lies the Parterre du Midi,
and  still further south, along the palace, lies
the Orangerie. A flight of 103 steps lead down to
an iron gate on the road to Brest.
Parterre de Latone lies in advance of Parterre
d'Eau, which two paterres (pits) the Allee du
Tapis Vert (green carpet). and the Grand Canal,
lie in a straight line and present a charming view
nearly a mile and a quarter in length. Bassin
Latone is surrounded by a semi-circular terrace
crowned with yew-trees and a range of statues and
groups in marble. (It would require the space of
a volume to describe all the fine statuary of this
garden). This fountain consists of five circular
basins rising one above the other in the form of a
pyramid, surmounted by a group of Latona with
Apollo and Diana. "The goddess implores the
vengeance of Jupiter against tie peasants of Libya,
who refused her water, and the peasants, already
metamorphosed, some half, and others entirely,




VERSAILLES.                  153
into frogs and tortoises, are placed on the edge of
the different tablets, and throw forth water upon
Latona in every direction, thus forming liquid
arches of the most beautiful effect."  Walking
down the green velvet lawn, we came to the Bassin
d'Apollon.  Apollo, the God of Day, is emerging
from the water in a chariot drawn by four horses,
and  surrounded  by a throng of sea-monsters.
Several other fountains represent the seasons.
Spring is represented by Flora and Summer by
Ceres.  Winter appears in a group representing
Saturn surrounded by children; and Bacchus, reclining upon grapes and surrounded by infant
satyrs, represents Autumn. Near the Tapis Vert,
in the midst of a dense grove, is a magnificent rotunda composed of 32 marble columns, united by
arches and supporting a number of marble vases.
Under the arcades, are a circular range of fountains,
" and in the middle is a fine group of the Rape of
Proserpine."
The largest and most splendid fountain in the
park, is the Bassin de Neptune. Upon its southern
border stand 22 ornamental vases, each with a jet
in the center. Against the same side, are three
colossal groups in lead. The central one represents
Neptune and Amphitrite seated in an immense
shell and surrounded by tritons, nymphs and seamonsters.  On the left is Oceanus resting upon a
sea-unicorn, and on the right, Proteus, the son of
Oceanus.  There are several other groups; and




154         THE PLEASURE-GARDEN.
from the jets of these, amounting to some 55 or 6C
in all, issues a deluge of water, when the gates arl
opened. A quarter of an hour in advance of the
appointed time, about 15,000 persons had assembled upon the circular terrace, facing this mag.
nificent fountain, and were waiting with breathless
anxiety to see old Neptune take his turn. We had
seen the wonders and beauties presented by the
other fountains as they shot their silvery columns,
and clouds of vapor high into the air, or spanned
their pyramidal basins with innumerable liquid
arches intersecting each other in every conceivable
direction; but the grandest sight, it was said, vwa
still in store for us. All the other fountains had
commenced their playing with humble spasmsthe columns rising higher by degrees, but old Neptune took every body by surprise.  Hundreds
leaped and shouted for joy, when they saw that the
southern heavens, which had been so clear and
beautiful but a moment before, were suddenly
whitened with clouds of vapor upon which the
rays of the western sun produced a most charming
effect. A gentle breeze gave to each spouting jet,
a misty tail, comet-like in appearance to the admiring spectators.
AN INCIDENT
which added much to my pleasures and enjoyments of that glorious day, deserves notice here, as
it illustrates that if one even starts to make the
tour of the world alone. so that he may not be de



VERSAILLES.                 155
ained by the loiterings of a companion whose
astes and fancies differ from his, need not thereore be without pleasant associates when he is in
r'ant of them. Early in the afternoon, as I was,bout taking my seat under the shade of a yewree on a terrace where I might have a fair view of
3assin de Latone, (the play of whose liquid arches
ender it the most beautiful of all in the garden),
was accidentally met by the same English party
vith whom I had traveled from London to Paris.
[t was a happy meeting indeed, and the incidents
)f our walks and conversations upon that pleasurewarden will ever remain fresh  and  green  on
mnemory's tablet. They had finished their tour of
sermany and returned in time to spent the great
lay of the month at Versailles. As the band was
liscoursing excellent music, the fountains playing,
and crowds of people streaming hither and thither
in the midst of these splendid scenes, one of the
ladies passed a remark which I only learned to appreciate fully, several months afterwards.  She
said, "I love the quiet English Sabbath."  Her father
had experienced before what the continental Sabbath was, but his daughters, though they appreciated these charming scenes none the less, would
have preferred them on week-days; for, nearly a
month of sight-seeing among a people who keep no
Sundays such as we do, had made them long for a
day of sweet andi silent repose. Several months
later, after I had traveled through France, Bel



156             VERSAILLES.
gium, Germany, Switzerland and Italy, withot
finding a day of rest such as England and Americ
make of their Sundays, I felt that even the pleasure
seeker should rest one day in seven.  Often
thought of the " quiet English" and AmericaJ
Sabbaths.




CHAPTER X.
LEAVING RPARIS.
On the 6th of August, after a stay of fifteen happy
ays in Paris, I began to make preparations to'ave for Brussels. I had walked during that time
mcording to my daily register, about 140 miles,
iaking an average of over 9 miles per day, for I
ould not avail myself of the omnibuses and city
ars, as I had done in London; because I could.ot make myself understood in French.
Paris had presented so much that was new or
adically different from what I had seen elsewhere
a the world, even London not excepted, that I felt
ustified in addressing the following conclusion to,n American journalist:- In Paris, there is such, harmonious combination of civilizing and refinng instrumentalities and influences, which, if I do
lot elsewhere find a nearer approach to than I
iave thus far, will not only throw sufficient light
ipon the question,' How does she lead the nations.n thought and fashion," that the most thoughtless
nay be able to solve it, but which will even entitle
ler to be styled queen of cities and Capital of the so-,iat world.
As I had definitely decided to return from Fgypt
ox America by way of Paris, in order that I might
see the great city once more toward the end of my




158          LEAVING PARIS.
tour, and be the better qualified to estimate h(
true position in the world, I made a little bundi
of the guide books and views, which I had alreadl
accumulated on my trip, and. also dropped som
of the superfluities of my wardrobe-these thing
I gave into the care of my chamberlain, and bad
good-by to Paris for a season. My friend and tutor
Prof. P. S., accompanied me to the station ane
bought me a ticket for Brussels, as we call it in on
language, but the French and Belgians call i
Bruixelle (pron. Broo-Yx-el). My friend informer
me of this and gave me a drill on pronouncing the
word correctly, for if I should have called it Brus
sels, no Frenchman would have understood wha
I meant. I was now about to leave the only ac
quaintance that could speak my language, and go
to another people of the same strange language a,
the Parisians speak, with no right to expect that ]
should be so lucky again in meeting a suitable
companion. I had ordered my mail to be forwarded to Cologne, Germany, until September 1st
At 11:15 p. m., August 6th, the train moved away
with me toward Belgium.
I had forgotten to ask how often and where I
must "change cars" from Paris to Brussels, and
now, where no one understood either English oi
German, what could be done! Possibly, I need
not make a change all night; and perhaps I should
at the next station already! How readily my
friend could have informed me, had I only asked




PARIS TO BRUSSELS.              159
din! But I managed to keep the right track,
hough at the expense of considerable anxiety and
he sacrifice of some rest and sleep that I might
)therwise have enjoyed during that night-journey.: learned a lesson, however, which aided me in
Lvoiding such perplexities in the future. As soon
is we reached the first station, I ran to a conduc-,or and, holding up my ticket, cried out, " Broox-el?"  He understood me and motioned me to
seep my seat. Some accommodating Frenchman
soon told me that he was traveling the same-way
for a considerable distance, (as his ticket also made
3lear to me), and offered kindly to inform me when
I had to leave that train. My peace of mind being
thus restored again, I made a pillow of my satchel
and went to sleep.
The next forenoon (Saturday, August 7th) we
reached Douane, where we had to pass muster under the Belgian custom-house officers. I was now
with the wooden-shoed Belgians.  A large company of the poor peasants passed muster with me.
Each was provided with a pick or a hoe, or both,
lying over his shoulder, and a large flaxen bag of
other implements, &c., suspended from it. Nearly
all wore caps, and the whole company looked very
shabby, indeed. My clothes were in strange contrast with their tattered garments, for there was
not another well-dressed passenger in the whole
company; and I felt like one out of his element,
because I did not also have a pick or hoe! A hun



16Q0          BELGIUM.
dr ed Belgians with a hundred bundles crowded int(
several small apartments of the station, found little
room for their careers, which consisted of the iron)
ends of their picks and hoes, so that those occa.
sionally hooked the prominent points of the facek
of those immediately behind them!  Strange tc
say, these collisions did not provoke any to insults
or the use of vulgar adverbs, but gentle reproofs
kept them all cool and steady till we entered the
cars again. The reader will pardon me for saying
that a similar crowd of persons in this country.
placed under the same tempting and exasperating
circumstances, would have created a row in five
minutes, as would be the natural consequence if
there were but a single ruffian in the whole lot.
Nothing will strike the American tourist more
when he comes to the Old World, than the good
order which prevails everywhere.  To meet two
persons scolding and insulting each other, is an
extremely rare occurrence. The orderly behavior
of such a company of peasants will impress one
more with the importance of teaching the young,
lessons of patience, humility and obedience (which
latter quality of character is the mother of a hundred virtues), than volumes of dry philosophy on
social ethics will generally avail.
I saw an elderly lady kiss a middle-aged man
alternately upon each cheek; an incident that is
common in European social life, and that shows
how the affections of the heart are cultivated and




BELGIUM.                  161
find expression. In Brussels I saw a son rest his
hand affectionately upon his mlother's shoulder, as
they stood amongst the multitude in a public
square.
I reached Bruixelle (Brussels) at about three
o'clock in the afternoon.  In order to see what
kind of money was in circulation in Belgium, I
immediately bought some pears of a fruit-woman,
and handed her half a franc (10 cents). You may
imagine how  I was perplexed when the lady
handed me a dozen coins of various sizes andvalues, as my change.  Knowing, however, that
though the coins had different impressions, the.
system was the same as that of French money, I
murmered to myself, "Blessed be the Decimal
System," and went to some retired quarter to count.
it! One piece was a large whitish coin marked
10c., and worth 2 cents in our money; others were
centimes, which are equivalent to but one fifth of
our cent! I soon learned to know them all.
After having taken a long walk through the city,
I engaged a room  at a hotel where one of the
boarders could speak a little English, and soon retired to take an afternoon nap. I awoke to broad
daylight, but did not at once know whether it was
that day, or the next day already; and there was no
one about, just then, whom I could have asked!
As the sun was standing in the western sky, I coneluded that it was more likely that I had slept only
a few hours, than that I should have slept 2T




162               BRUSSELS.
hours; and when the landlord was contended with
the payment of one night's lodging, I felt satisfied
that I could not have stayed two nights with him!
On Saturday afternoon, after my nap, I went out
again to see the city. Brussels is one of the most
progressive capitals in all Europe. Several splendid boulevards lined with fine cafes and large
edifices adorned with innumerable balconies, reminded me of Paris and its architectural scenery.
It has a passage that compares well, both in brilaiancy and magnificence, with some of the grandest,in Paris.  The Bourse de Commerce, (just com-;pleted), with its four elegant facades, would do.credit to any city, and its market houses are among
Ithe finest that I have ever seen.
On Sunday (August 8th) I found all kinds of
business being transacted, just as is done in Paris..On my way to the Cathedral, I met a dozen dogteams that Sunday morning. Quite a small dog
will draw a larger cart load of milk, than I would
have expected that half a dozen of them could pull.
The milk is distributed over the city by women,
principally.  It seems strange, how much work
must be done by the women, where the men are
required to spend a large portion of their time in
the service of their respective countries, constitutting the large standing armies with which Europe
is flooded. Some of these women have large dogs
to draw  their milk-carts, others have smaller
ones hitched to one side and  assist them  by




BRUSSELS.                 163
pulling themselves on the other side of the shaft!
THE CATHEDRAL (ST. GUDULE),
is a grand old church, some portions of it dating
from the 13th and 14th centuries. "It is rich in
old stained glass and monuments.  The carved
wooden pulpit by Verbriiggen (1699) represents
the expulsion of Adam and Eve from Paradise."
The choir renders excellent music. An odd feature
in the religious exercises of this church, is the
manner in which the choir is noticed when to sing,
by the ringing of a common bell.
HOTEL DE VILLE.
Hotel de Ville (the Town Hall) is an elegant
building dating from the 15th century. It is four
stories high to the roof, besides there are 4 rows of
dormer-windows in the roof (four stories in the
garret!) Its graceful tower is 506 (?) steps, 364
feet high. The view from the top is magnificent.
Behind this building, at the crossing of two fine
streets, stands the curious "mannikin   ~" statue
and fountain, evidently a relic of the shameless age.
I spent some of my time with an intelligent merchant who had been traveling in America, and
could, in consequence, speak the English quite
well. He informed me that he was not aware that
Belgium had any Sunday-laws upon her statutes.
Any one may do upon the Sabbath-day everything
that he might do on week-days, if he feels so inclined. On Sunday afternoon, I left Brussels for
Antwerp (Anvers). Nothing can be more delight



164               BELGIUM.
ful than the rural scenery of Belgium. The whole
country is as carefully tilled as a garden-every
foot of available soil being under cultivation. Most
of the dwelling houses are small, but everything
about the houses, yards and gardens is kept in the
most perfect order. Occasionally, a beautiful vista opens to a fine residence in the distance. As
we rode along in the cars, we would occasionally
see an afternoon or evening party seated around a
richly laden table glittering with glassware, and
enjoy their dinners and suppers under some shade
trees in the midst of their gardens. This custom
is common in Europe, and presents most beautiful
and homely sights.
Soon after I had entered the cars, I noticed that
the tone of the conversation among the passengers
was different from what I had been accustomed to
hear in France and Belgium thus far. I now heard
the chatter of the Dutch, but understood no more
than if it had been so much French. Dutch and
German  are two entirely  different languages.
Dutch print in the newspapers does, however, not
look so perfectly strange, as the conversation sounds
to the ear.
After arriving at Antwerp I was soon found by
a porter who conducted me to a German Hotel.
How social and hospitable these Germans areand, I must add, Europeans in general. Die
"Deutsche TIirthschcaft" (German Hotel) occupied
quite a small building, which presented a very




ANTWERP.                   165
ordinary appearance on the outside, but I. shall
never forget that carpeted bar-room, the costly furniture of the parlor, and the accommodating landlady which we found there. Taste and comfort
are always consulted, even where the greatest simplicity prevails.
ANTWERP
is one of the most Catholic cities (some say the
most Catholic city) in the world. Its streets are
filled with images of the Virgin and Child, the
Savior and the Cross. These stand at the corners
of the crossings, or preside over the street lamps.
On one of its church towers, over a gas light, is
represented a candle stick with the rays emanating
from its light.  On each side, is a little cherub-one
has a cross and the other an anchor. Over them,
stand the mystical letters "IHS," the cross being
combined with the H after the fashion of a monogram. Beneath is the following inscription:
GELOOFD
ZY JESUS CHRISTUS
IN HET ALLERHEYLIGSTE
SACRAMENT.
In another part of the city I found a representation of the crucifixion, the cross upon which Christ
is nailed being about 20 feet high. Effigies of two
women in oriental costume stand on either side
of it.
In Antwerp, as in Brussels, the spirit of progress
has seized the leading circles, and the hand of im



166              ANTWERP.
provement has commenced tearing down her ancient houses and building new streets upon the
modern plan and style of architecture. One of
the most handsome avenues in the world, being from
290 to 350 feet in width, and about two miles long,
runs through the very heart of this city. It has
several moderate angles, which render it convenient
to assign different names to different sections of it.
Avenue du Commerce reaches from the northern
end of the city to its magnificent squares in the
center, known as Place de la Commnune and Place
de la Victoire.  Here begins Avenue des Arts,
which, with Avenue de l'Industrie, leads to the
southern confines of the city. These avenues consist of three parallel roadways with two broad footpavements between them, and wide pavements at
the sides. Let us cross this avenue from one side
to the other, and estimate the width of its different
parts. First we cross abroad payement of perhaps
30 feet; then a roadway of about 50 feet; next
a foot-pavement lined by thick rows of trees whose
branches form an arch over it;then the central roadway, perhaps 150 feet wide; and afterwards, another
foot-pavement, a roadway and the pavement on
the other side, corresponding with those already
mentioned. The great square in the center of the
city occupies about 6 acres. In this section of
Antwerp, nearly all the old buildings have been
torn down and new ones erected during the last
few years; and in many other sections the same




THE SPIRIT OF REVOLUTION.    167
work of widening streets and erecting new buildings in place of the old, is being done with reckless
haste. It seems as if old houses were regarded as
a disgrace to the city. That few images are to be
seen in the new sections of the city, is a sure sign
thai commerce, art and industry (see the names of
three avenues which run through this city) have
sounded the tocsin of revolution, and that the
ancient religion with its emblems, forms and ceremonies, is yielding to the spirit of modern civilization and refinement, as many other cities of Europe
have already done.
It is aremarkable fact, that as Catholicism sinks
in Continental Europe, its communicants will not
stop to jein Prodestantism, but go strait over to
Rationalism. France, for example, has had these
two extreme elements fighting each other for the
ascendency, for a long time, and no middle-road
sentiment ever gained a foothold.   Prodestant
Europe will ding to the church the longest, and,
do we not already see the indications very planely
that after all Europe has turned rationalistic,,
America will ccntinue to cherish the church and
built her a Rome for future generations to bless as
the fostering mother of modern Christianity?
NOTRI DAMIE CATHEDRAL.
The Cathedral is he most elegant Gothic Church
in Belgium, and oi.e of the most famous in the
world. Some parts of it date from the 13th and
others from  the 16th centuries.  The spire (403




168               ANTWERP.
feet in height) is a proud rival of that on the
Cathedral of Strasbourg, and its chimes of 99 bells
are deservedly famous.  Within the church, are
some of the most celebrated paintings of Rubens.
Among them  are " Descent from the Cross," (ccnsidered his master piece), " Elevation of the Cross,"
"Assumption" and " Resurrection."  The interiqr
of this church is ornamented with master paintings
and fine works of art in lavish profusion. The
cathedral is free in the morning, but at nocn the
paintings of Rubens are unveiled, and a fee of I fr.
is charged for admission.  There were a-out 35
other tourists there during the afternoon that I
visited it.
The Church of St. Jaques contains the tomb of
Rubens, and many pictures, a numbe) of them
veiled and shown only for a fee.
THE MIUSEUM.
The museum  contains some of the best (most
natural) paintings in  Europe.  TJie pencil of
Rubens has imitated nature so perfectly that the
eye almost fails to detect a flaw in the execution.
The spectator may know that he only stands before a fiat surface of paper daubed with paint; but
his soul will be stirred, his pule begins to beat
faster and his imagination runs xway with him, as
he looks at such masterly execations of a skillful
hand as is the " Dead Jesus" -nd some others in
this museum.  The congealed blood in his side,
upon his hands and on his ead, with the tears of




THE MUSEUM.                  169
Joseph and Mary and others, so natural that one
mistakes the pictures for the reality, create feelings
in the beholder such as he seldom experiences elsewhere, even in Europe. He first mourns for the
dead and pities the afflicted; then he recovers
himself again, and thanks the artist for having
given him a key to the thoughts and feelings wlhich
he himself must have cherished while executing
this painting. It is said, that when Roubiliac was
erecting the Nightingale monument in Westminster Abbey, described on page 86, " he was found
one day by Gayfere, the Abbey mason, standing
with his arms folded, and his looks fixed on one
of the knightly figures which support the canopy
over the statue of Sir Francis Vere; as Gayfere approached, the enthusiastic Frenchman laid his hand
on his arm, pointed to the figure, and said in a
whisper,'Hush! hush! he vil speak presently.' 
Can we conceive that Rubens painted the " Dead
Jesus" without sobs and tears?
I had seen acres of paintings in the Kensington
Museum in London, in the Louvre in Paris and in
Palais de Versailles; but it was reserved for me to
see the paintings of Rubens and of Van Dyck last,
so that I might know their merit.
Near the entrance of the Museum, stands a fine
monument and statue to the honor and memory of
ANTONIO VAN DYCK
P.
CID.IDCCC.LVI.




170            THE MUSEUM.
No one would wish to leave Antwerp without
having seen the " gilded halls" by the river side,
containing some of the most brilliant apartments
in existence.
Antwerp has a population of about 120,000 inhabitants, and is the chief sea-port of Belgium.
The Scaut Fleuve (River Scheldt) is from a quarter
to a third of a mile wide at Antwerp.




CHAPTER XI.
HOLLAND.
Early on Tuesday morning (August 10th) I
tarted on "a run through Holland."
The Meuse and the Rhine form  numerous
nouths, and their deltas are low and marshy. A
nost magnificent bridge crosses these, which is
everal (three?) miles in length. Fourteen immense
ron arches are required to span one of the mouths of
he Rhine. Much of the land is lower than the
ocean, and a great conflict is waged between the
Hollanders and the Sea, for the possession of'the
and. It is a strange sight to see vessels sail along;he embankments higher than the chimney tops of
the houses along the shore!  Watchmen  are
stationed along these embankments and when the
ocean breaks a leak, they will ring the alarm bells
and every body will arm himself with a spade or
shovel and run to the sea-shore to battle with the
water. Thus have these people defended their
property against the encroachments of the sea for
many centuries.
A great part of Holland is as level as the ocean,
and there are neither fences nor hedges to be seen.
But ditches surround every little field and lot, and
innumerable wind-mills pump the water that
gathers into these ditches, up into canals, which




172               HOLLAND.
intersect the country like a net-work, and conduc
the water to the sea. Extensive meadows and ric]
pasture land support large herds of fine cattle an{
sheep, which constitute the wealth of Flemish in
dustry.
These Hollanders have some very curious style;
of dress, and, like the Swiss, still wear their ancien'
costumes, even after the rest of Europe have adoptee
the fashions of Paris.  In the larger towns anc
cities, however, the tide of revolution has set in
and the young belles and beaux have commenced
to " sail in Paris styles."  A few years more, and
the traditional costumes of the Flanders will have
disappeared altogether.
The men are very partial to "burnsides" and
wear their hair pretty long, combed wet and stroked
down so as to look smooth and glossy. The old
women, in place of ear-rings, wear ornaments in
the form  of immense spirals suspended from  the
ends of half of a brass hoop that passes around
their heads below their white caps. These hang
down over the cheeks and are almost as long as
their faces. Some of the young ladies coming in
from the rural districts, carry a head rigging-I
do not know what else to call it, for it is neither
bonnet, hat, nor cap, nor any combination of these;
but it is an apparatus for the head that baffles description, and which, for want of a better name, we
must call a tremnendous thing, both in magnitude and
in design! I have seen women with straw hats




THE HAGUE.                   173
hat must have been well nigh a yard in diameter!
n The Hague, I saw little girls, however, (from 6
3 12 or 15 years of age) that were dressed as tidily
nd looked as fair and as sweet as any of our
Lmerican school-girls.
PUBLIC HIGHWAYS.
In Holland, these are highways in fact as well as
n name. They run in perfectly strait lines through
he country, are about a yard higher than the
neadows at their sides, and are lined by thick
ows of willow-trees. They are turnpiked of course,,s are all the roads in civilized Europe. From
hese roads the traveler has always the same field
)f vision-a circle around him  that is about 8 to
5 miles in diameter.  Towering spires may be
ieen in all directions.  I visited Dordrecht, Rotterlam, The Hague, Amsterdam, Utrecht, Arnheim
nmd intermediate places.
THE HAGUE,.n Dutch'S Gravenhage or'S Hage, in French La
Haye, is the capital of Holland as well as one of
ts finest towns.  "It was originally a hunting seat
3f the Counts of Holland (whence its name,'S
3raven Hage,'the Count's enclosure').~"-Hurd
rncd Houghtons Satchel Guide to Europe.
The supreme attraction, is the museum rich in
the best paintings of the -Dutch school. "Here is;
Paul Potter's world renowned'Bull,' alone worth
a trip to Holland to see."  This famous picture,
represents a rural scene. A rain, a ewe, a lamb, a




174               HOLLAND.
bull and a cow are gathered together under an ol
tree, and the old farmer, standing somehow b(
hind the tree, taking a look at them. It is so pe]
fectly true to nature that one can hardly persuad
himself that the living animals are not before hin
The pictures known as Rembrandt's "School (
Anatomy" are also as deservedly famous. Wha:
ever the criticism  of one who is no artist may b
worth, it is my opinion that Rubens's paintings an(
some of those in this museum, are the truest t
nature of all that I have seen in Europe. Raphael'
paintings in Rome are shady in comparison tl
those of the Dutch school.
Tuesday, August 10th, 4:21 p. m. Leave The
Hague for Amsterdam, where I arrived at 7:30 p
n., having passed Haarlem  at 6:45 p. m. At 
o'clock, as I sat on the platform of the Oosterspoor
weg Station, the bells of three different tower
commenced simultaneously to chime their peals
and that too with mathematical precision. Th(
exactness with which the clocks in the clock-towern
of Europe keep time is remarkable; and the music
of the pealing bells is beautiful, when numbers oi
them chime at the same time.
At Amsterdam  I was asked for my passport, I
told the " blue coats" that I had it in my satchel.
"You should have it with you," said the Germanspeaking official. I replied that I had not been
aware of that; and as I had not been asked for it
either in England, France or Belgium, I had placed




AMSTERDAM.                  175
it into my satchel, so as not to wear it out in my
pockets. I sent the porter to fetch my satchel,
took the passport from it, and, after having shown
it to the officials, placed it into my pocket again,
so that I might have it ready in any emergency.
These officers were very accommodating to me
afterwards, however, during the time that I waited
for the next train for Utrecht. After having had
quite a social chat with them, I asked them what
they would have done with nme if I could not have
produced them a passport from the government
of my country. "Well," said one of them, " we
would have been obliged to subject you to an examination, and if your answers would have satisfied the committee, you would have been allowed
to pass on."
CLOAK-ROOMS.
In connection with the railway stations, wherever
I traveled in Europe, there are "cloak-rooms," in
which the baggage of the travelers is stored away.
It costs 1 to 2 cents to have a package, parcel, umbrella or satchel deposited into one of these, and
then the depositor receives a receipt or check for
his luggage, which he must present when he wishes
to have it again. But Holland offers none of these
excellent accommodations, else I would have spent
a day more among these Flanders. When I came
to Amsterdam, I was immediately assailed by a
herd of porters, each anxious to take my satchel
into charge. It had been nmy rule to carry it to




176               HOLLAND.
the cloak-room  myself, but here I could not find
one!  After a vehement struggle with the fierce
porters, one of them who could say " Yes," in German, and who nodded his head when I asked him
whether he would take it to a cloak-room, took it
and carried it into the station, a distance of about
fifty feet. But they kept no cloak-room as I observed when it was not placed into a special apartment for the purpose. It did not seem home-like
at all to me, so I asked the agent whether he would
give me a receipt for it. "Yes, if you satisfy the
porter, I will," he answered. This reply made me
more tired of Amsterdam than anything else, for,
thought I, if the agent of the would-be " cloakroom" is a party to such a set of fellows, I must
indeed have fallen into pretty bad company. I
offered the porter 4 cents, which was twice as much
as it cost me in other cities to have my satchel
cared for a whole day, but he refused to take it.
Being unwilling to become the victim of their extortions, I took my satchel and carried it (almost
three fourths of a mile) through  town to the
Oosterspoorweg on the other side of the city.
There I obtained good accommodations. I had
asked for lodging while coming through the city,
but could not suit myself; so I decided to start
that evening with the first train for Utrecht.  How
different was the social atmosphere of the Oosterspoorweg Station   Not only were the porters and
the officers civil, but there was an excellent res



UTRECHT.                   177
taurant connected with it, and the waiting-girls of
the coffee-room were tidily dressed in French costume, spoke German, and were social, polite and
accommodating.
At 9:30, I left by train for Utrecht, which I reached
at 10:35 p.m. The station was a new and spacious
one and the-accommodations were again like those
which' I had-been accustomed to, before I saw Holland;so I felt quite at home again.
UTRECHT.
It is entirely wrong for the tourist to come into
a strange city late at night, but I could not avoid
it this time on account of my sudden determination in Amsterdam  not to spend the night there,
as had been my intention.  A clever and kindhearted gentleman accompanied me through comparatively dark streets, and found a good hotel
for me.
The next forenoon I ascended the high tower
(469 steps, 321 feet in height).  In this tower, at
the height of 124 steps, lives the lady custodian of
this stupendous building.  She must have "high
times" up there!  The tower is a large square
structure affording plenty of room even for several
families; but I was thinking that she must have
quite a time of it carrying up her water and all the
numerous other things necessary to house-keeping.
The view from the top of the tower takes in the
greater part of Holland. The country all around
is quite level, as far as the eye can see. Level, in




178              HOLLAND.
Holland, means level. Here one sees the innumerable wind-mills, and the labyrinthic net-work of
canals which intersect Holland. An almost boundless expanse of meadow land stretches out in every
direction, and affords excellent pasture to the lowing herds that roam upon it. One sees but a few
scattered trees, and several small woods, all the rest
is clear and bear-no hedge-fences even to interrupt the dull monotony of the scene below. A
strong wind, and it was high too, whistled around
that lofty tower, reminding me of our winter storms
when they whistle over the chimney-tops-a music.that often makes melancholy hearts home-sick.
It was exactly 12:00 o'clock, and I was in the
middle of the sentence, "How beautiful these bells
chime," when a boy motioned me to come quickly
to a certain place where I could see the cylinder
revolve which communicates with the peal of bells.
Two points of lightning-rods crown this tower.
Few lightning-rods are to be seen upon private
buildings, in Europe, but upon public buildings
they are occasionally met with.
I must not leave Holland without once more referring to the rattling of the wooden shoes upon
the pavements, the red artificial flowers which old
gray-headed women wear upon their heads and,the gaudy colors of some of their dresses; also to,
the universal custom of carrying everything upon
their heads.
The denominations of Dutch money are florins




-HOLLAND.                  179
or guldids, and cents; 100 cents equal one florin.
The florin is equal to 40 cents in United States
money.
At 12:38 p. m., I left by train for Cologne, Germany. By 1:00 o'clock we entered a desolate section of country consisting of barren sandy soil,
scanty crops, and dwarfish shrubs and trees. On
our way, I formed the acquaintance of an elderly
gentleman who moved from Holland to this country nineteen years ago. This gentleman explained
to me the agricultural institutions of Holland. He
now lives in new Holland, Ottowa Co., Michigan,
a town of 3,000 inhabitants, most of which are
natives of Holland. There are about 15,000 more
of his native countrymen living in the neighborhood of, new Holland and at Grand Rapids. They
have a newspaper published in their language in
this country. At 2:25 we reached Arnheim where
my Dutch friend left me.
At Zeevenaar (near the boundary between Holland and Germany) we passed muster. Soon after
we crossed the Rhine on a ferry, which carried us
and the whole trains of cars over together. Thence
we rode through Rhenish Prussia on, on, until we
reached Cologne.




CHAPTER XII.
COLOGNE.
Koln, (or Cologne), the principal town in the
Rhenish Province of Prussia, the seat of the supreme
court of justice for the west bank of the Rhine, one
of the chief commercial cities in Germany, and a
military stronghold of the first class, is an old
Catholic city dating its foundation from the 1st
century of the Christian era. In the beginning of
the present century, it had  200 churches and
chapels; it has at present 25 only, two of which
are prodestant.
THE CATHEDRAL.
The first place that the traveler naturally goes
to visit is the Cathedral, (Ger. Dom), which "is
perhaps" says Badeker, " the most magnificent
Gothic edifice in the world." This superb edifice
is over an acre and a half in extent! It is 448 feet
long and 249 feet through the transepts; the choir
is 149 feet high. The magnificent south portal
cost more than $500,000.
The central portal in the west end is 93 feet high,
and 31 feet wide.  The central window  is 48
feet in height and 20 feet wide.  The projected
height of the twin towers is 511 feet.  These are
intended to consist of four stories, the third of
which is approaching completion.  A model rep



THE CATHEDRAL.                 181
resenting in miniature what this structure is intended to be in the height of its glory when its
towers are completed and crowned with spires,
may be seen in a store adjacent to the Dom-platz,
where the " only veritable" Cologne water (eau de
Cologne) may also be obtained.
The foundation of this vast edifice was laid in
1248. Little work was done at it between 1322 and
the beginning of the 16th century, and none from
the latter date until 1816, when its restoration was
begun under the auspices of the King of Prussia,
Since that time $2,000,000 have been expended
upon it. Those lower portions of the walls which
were built 600 years ago, are old and gray and
washed thinner by the rains of those half a dozen
centuries. Such as appreciate the poetry of architecture, see in its multitude of spires and finials
(large and small) a thousand vegetable forms,
uniting to produce a bewildering effect upon the
imagination; but no word-picture can do justice
to the almost matchless beauty of this fine blossom
of Gothic architecture. The tourist will love to go
round about it and inspect and contemplate its
every part, to take near views and distant views of
it, and to revisit it time and again; ahd when he
has bid adieu to Cologne and returned to his far
distant home, he will dream dreams, by day and
by night, in which he revisits and beholds again
the beauties and glories of this magnificent temple.
St. Ursula, a church that is said to have been




182               COLOGNE.
been built in the 11th century, contains a monument erected (1658) to St. Ursula, a princess of
England, who, according to the legend, when on
her return from a pilgrimage to Rome, was barbarously murdered by the Huns at Cologne with
her 11,000 virgin attendants.  The skulls and
bones of these martyrs are preserved in cases placed
round the church. Large sections of the walls in
the church are shelved and divided into pigeon
holes, eachl containing a skull! I saw no less than
600 or 700 of these skulls (by actual count). The
bones" are worked into the walls in a species of
sepulchral mosaic." These bones, it is said, had
been in their graves about 400 years. The old pictures of the apostles are painted upon slates, one
of them bearing the date 1224.
In the Golden,Chamber are preserved the most
sacred relics; here is a bone which is claimed to
have been in the right arm of St. Ursula, while a
gilded shrine contains the rest of her bones. Do
these identifications not prove conclusively that
anatomy was better understood when these bones
w'ere classified than it is even now? The name of
the anatomist who selected St. Ursula's bones from
among 11,000 and identified them is not given, but
he certainly deserves much credit for it. Here are
thorns from the crown and a piece of the rod with
which Christ was scorged, one of the six jars of
alabaster used at the marriage in Galilee, and a
piece, about as thick as a hair and an inch or two




THE MUSEUM.                   183
long, of the "true cross."  So they say. These
things were brought hither from  Syria by  the
crusaders in 1378.
THE MUSEUM.
The Museum  in Cologne is one of the most interesting that I have yet seen. Its curious old
paintings carry one back to the wretched times of
the middle ages, when nothing but superstition and
the night-mare of hell could influence predatory
man to humanity on civil order. A picture of the
Last Judgement is characteristic of the religious
notions of those early times. In this, Christ is
represented as sitting on one rainbow and resting
his feet upon another.  To his right stands a
beautiful castle, into which numbers of beautiful
persons are going.  But on the left, how horrible t
A massive time-worn citadel from  whose large
chimney tower issue flames and smoke, into which
winged devils are descending, while others, carrying wretched-looking men in their clutches, fly
about near it, or are approaching it with their
struggling victims, and hideous monsters of quaint,
fantastic forms accompany them in their excursions! One of these hideous beasts is represented
with an extra head upon one shoulder and one
under its breast; it has also faces upon its knees 
Among the other relics of antiquity, is Cheopetra
with a little snake creeping over her bosom. Christ
on the Cross surrounded by Mary and the Apostles,
Madonna in an arbor of roses, Lions Fighting,.




184                COLOGNE.
Mlourning Jews, Summer Night on the Rhine, and
Galileo in Prison, deserve special notice among the
hundreds of other admirable paintings.
A  fine iron bridge 1,359 feet long, and wide
enough for a double line of rails and a separate
roadway, crosses the Rhine directly east of the
Cathedral.
In traveling through foreign lands, one sees so
much that is indecent, obscene, and shockingly
profane, according to his our way of thinking, that
he scarcely knows what to include and what to
suppress in his accounts of foreign manners, customs and institutions.  Some writers incline to the
policy of rendering a true account of what they
touch, but will restrain their pens from giving any
notice of about one fourth of all they see, because
they do not wish to pain the feelings of their readers
by reciting to them narrations of horrible tragedies
that occurred in the past, or of groveling superstitions that prevailed; such as we all wish had never
disgraced the history of infant humanity or constituted the day-dreams of our ancestors.  They
carefully select that which flatters and pleases the
vanity of their fellows, and pass by unnoticed,
everything else.  This course may tickle vain people, but it cannot meet with favor among those
who love the truth, and the whole truth. There
are sins of omission as well as of coinamission, and
writers betray and deceive the world as much  by
the former class as by the latter.  Some fastidious




COLOGNE.                  185
writers are afraid to call things by their proper
names, considering it more appropriate to paint
an African with a brownish color than to shock the
beholder with a picture of a man with a black face I
I can not take the reader through Europe in that
way. To paint a negro we need black paint, and
to describe scenes which are unfamiliar we need
words and language that is not used in the drawing room or parlor every time we meet. So much
for the introduction to an episode that is characteristic of the profanity of some of the descendents of
the old Teutonic stock, when they become exasperated. The-second day that I spent in Cologne,
I went to a German barber to be put into trim for
making my descend into the lower latitudes and
consequently warmer countries. Another customer was ahead of me. While the barber was at
work upon him, all the time in a rage and swearing barberously at some proceedings, a thunder
storm came up very suddenly, and so obscured the
light of the sun (though it was midday) that he
could not see to go on with his work. Hereupon
he began first to swear at the clouds, then at the
Lord himself, using all the epithets of abuse that
he could find in his entire vocabulary of profanity,
there were heavy peals of thunder and vivid flashes
of lightning, but, the darker it became and the
more tremendous the crashes of the thunderbolts,
the more the senseless and exasperated barber
cursed and swore. After the shower and hail, I




186               COLOGNE.
walked out into the pure fresh air and under the
blue vault of heaven smiling down upon the refreshed vegetation, and tried to draw a picture of
that profane man's mental panorama, but I never
succeeded even to this day. Such behavior is not
of rare occurrence, else I should not have related
it; but even sacred history refers to similar incidents. The wicked, it is recorded, danced and
were merry even until the waters of the flood swept
them away.
A certain divine related to me a similar story
concerning the behavior of a large body of the passengers with him on the "Great Eastern," when
she was foundered at sea and obliged to return,
after they had advanced 500 miles. When the
storm was assailing the great ship, breaking down
its masts and tearing away its rigging, so that most
of the passengers were in despair and expected to
sink any hour, they kept prayer-meetings almost
continually.  Another faction found fault with
these, declared that praying was an intolerable
nuisance and asked the Captain to prohibit it.
The Captain decided that he would not interfere,
whereupon the party offended took to dancing,
cursing and swearing, and tried their utmost in
this way to break up the prayer-meetings.
I heard similar profanity on my return trip
across the Atlantic. One night when a storm assailed our ship, so that the waves rolled over the
deck and the fierce rocking of the vessel threw




DEPTHS OF MAN'S DEGRADATION. 187
many almost out of their beds, I heard many of
them  swear, even during the very time that the
thunder rolled  with  tremendous roarings and
crashes across the heavens. It seems almost impossible that conscious intelligent beings could behave thus, but the fact that they do, helps us to
believe other strange truths recorded in history,
without which, no correct conception of man's
former depraved condition can be formed at this
advanced day. For example, few seem to appreciate the part played by the Catholic Church with
her images, shrines, sacred relics, and magnificent
temples, in taming and civilizing man, - because
they do not know who and what he was when the
light of intelligence first began to direct his footsteps, and he had not yet learned to control his
selfish nature which had hitherto been guided by
an instinct worth a hundred times more than intelligence without morality or religion. We make
a sad mistake yet in the nineteenth century, in
cultivating the intellect and leaving morality so
much out of the question. We see some of the
fruits already in the corruption which prevails
alike in all circles without regard to party or sect.
I will recur to this again in speaking of the influence of the church, when I come to.describe the
magnificent churches of Italy.
On the second afternoon that I spent at Cologne
there had been a shower, and from sunset till dusk
I beheld one of the grandest atmospheric phe



188         COLOGNE TO BONN.
nomena that I had ever witnessed. From a window of Mfliler's Hotel (facing the Dom-Platz) I was
looking over the Cathedral at the western sky, as
the sun throw its colored light through the small
drops of rain still descending, and thus colored
both the green foliage of the trees and the grand
edifice before me, presenting a scene of such enchanting beauty as would afford almost a sufficient
excuse for one to go into raptures, or sink down in
a fit of ecstatic delight.
I may add that before leaving Cologne, I saw
among the many dog-teams used in distributing
produce over the city, a span whose disproportion I
shall never forget; there wzs a dog hitched to one
side of the shaft and a woman took hold of the
other side and assisted him in pulling the load!
BONN.
On Friday morning, August 13th, I left Cologne
and went by rail to Bonn, 21 miles further up the
Rhine. It is the seat of the Freidrich Wilhelm
University, and contains about 26,000 inhabitants.
The Poppelsdorfer Allee, an excellent quadruple
avenue of fine horse-chestnuts, three quarters of a
mile long, is the principal promenade of the town.
At the end of it stands the Schloss containing the
University, with a library (200,000 volumes) and a
museum rich in Roman antiquities. The Minster
(or Cathedral) dates from the 12th and 13th centuries. In the Miinsterplatz stands a fine bronze
statue of Beethoven, a celebrated German musician,




BONN.                   189
who was born in the Bonngasse, No. 515. This
statue faces south, (as do most of the statues that
I have seen in Europe, except when the surround —
ings are unfavorable). One side of the pedestal
contains the following inscription:
LUDWIG
VAN
BEETHOVEN
GEB. ZU BONN MDCCLXX.
The other three sides contain base reliefs representing muses playing upon musical instruments.
Half a mile above the Poppelsdorfer Schloss
rises the Kreuzberg (400 feet high) crowned with
a white church. This contains the " Holy Steps,'
28 in number, which must only be ascended on
the knees, and are in imitation of the Scala Sancta
at the Lateran in Rome, piously believed to be the
identical steps of the Praetorium ascended by the
Savior when he appeared before Pilate.
The view from the tower of this church is one of
the most beautiful on the Rhine. After enjoying
the scenery a while, with a party of ladies and
gentlemen whose society I had joined in the church
below, we came down, and I took a rustic seat on
an eminence and surveyed the beauties of the landscape more at leisure. The most beautiful part of
the Rhine is from Bonn' to Mayence, and this view
from the Kreuzberg constituted for me a fine initiation into the charming scenery that fell to my
portion to enjoy the coming three days.  Large




190      KREUZBERG, NEAR BONN.
sections of the country here are entirely without
fences, there being no hedge-fences even, and the
landscape checkered by the different fresh colors
of the various crops, spreads out like a beautiful
carpet of green, red, yellow, gray, and a dozen other
tints and shakes, all mixed up, or like a pavement
rich in mosaics. We had also gone into the cellar
of the church to see the skeletons and bodies of 26'
Servitten lying about in boxes or coffins set in rows
upon the ground.  These, it is said, built the
church in 1627.  The bodies of several of them
seem to have petrified more or less perfectly, but
the rest of them are mere skeletons, and present
an anatomical display that reminded me of what
I had seen in St. Ursula, in Cologne, as above described.  This cellar is perfectly dark  and  is
entered by a trap-door in the form of a heavy stone,
which an attendant removes by means of a crowbar. The steps leading down are narrow and the
passage very low, so that several of the ladies at
first declined to enter, but we persuaded them,
however, to accompany us. A tallow candle afforded us some little light, and after brushing away
the cobwebs which the spiders had spun since the
last party had made their entry, we came upon the
sickening sight of the dozen or more skeletons still
preserved. The ladies in the party were intelligent
and dressed tastefully, and I shall never forget how
the gaudy colors of their dresses contrasted with
the gloom of that nasty cellar.




KREUZBERG.                  191
The frequent odd adventures into such places as
nany would not like to enter in their own homes.n the presence of their friends and companions,
constitutes a prolific source of amusement. After
we had crept out of that dirty cobwebbed passage,
zur clothes were slightly soiled and cobwebby.
With the remark, "If we were all with our fashionable circles at home, I suppose we should not go
on this way," or some such allusion, that reminds
the company of how differently they are wont to
go on at home, one can, under such circumstances
generally provoke a fit of merriment. To the
traveler, every day is a day of adventures-frequently of rather funny adventures!
At 2:30 p. m., I left Bonn by rail for Mehlen, (5
miles further up), where I crossed the Rhine on a
ferry and came to Konigswinter on its right bank.
Southeast of this village lie "The Seven Mountains" (Siebengebirge).  From  the Drachenfels
(1,066 feet high) the view is the most picturesque,
and this one, about a mile from the village, I ascended. Donkeys and donkey boys are found
here in aboundance, but I would have nothing to
do with the donkey, and immediately set out to
make the ascent on foot. I did not come far before a girl crowned me.with a wreath made of
leaves, and asked me to buy it. The scenery is so
romantic, here, that many will yield to the importunities of these poor girls and give them a groschen
(2~ cents) and make the rest of their journeys with 




192           DRACHENFELS.
wreaths of leaves upon their hats! The ruins of
the castle of Drachenfels (or dragon's rock) erected
in the beginning of the 12th century, is near the
summit of the peak. The cavern of the dragon
may be seen from the Rhine half way up the hill.
" This dragon was slain by Sigfried, the hero from
the Low Countries, who, having bathed himself in
its blood, became invulnerable."
The summit of Drachenfels commands one of
the noblest prospects of the Rhine. Here sat Byron
when he wrote the following beautiful lines:
" The castled crag of Drachenfels
Frowns o'er the wide and winding Rhine,
Whose breast of waters broadly swells
Between the banks which hear the vine;
And hills all rich with blossomed trees,
And fields which promise corn and wine
And scattered cities crowning these,
Whose far white walls along them shine,
Have strew'd a scene which I should see
With double joy went thou with me."
While luxuriating here amidst these grand and
beautiful scenes of the Rhine, we were visited, by
a shower, after which I enjoyed the sublime sight
of looking down upon a rainbow which stood in the
valley below me!
That evening I rode by rail to Ehrenbreitstein
which is opposite to Coblentz.




CHAPTER XIII.
COBLENTZ.
On Saturday afternoon, August 14th, I prepared
a programme of my contemplated trip through
South Germany, Switzerland, Italy and the East,,
which, together with several hundred cards, I got,
printed in the afternoon.  By means of these programmes  I  informed  my  correspondents  in
America, in which cities I would look for mail
matter and at what times I expected to reach them.
Mr. Ellner, of the Coblentzer Volkszeitung, told me
that the dialects of the German language are so
different, that the people of Coblentz and those of
Cologne can scarcely understand each other when
they speak their peculiar dialects.
The principle, that whenever a stream of watermakes a curve, the outside bank (that which turns
the water from  its strait course) is always more
precipitous than the other in proportion to the
amount of curvature of the stream, is well illustrated at the confluence of the Mosel and the Rhine
at Coblentz, by the course of the latter. The waters
of the Mosel flow almost perpendicularly against
the right bank of the Rhine, and have helped it in
forming the precipitous rock of Ehrenbreitstein
rising to the height of 387 feet above the river, upon
which stand the famous fortifications of that name.




194         GEOLOGICAL LAWS.
The Rhine curves toward the left for about six or
eight miles, and its right bank is in consequence
high and steep, while the left bank is in the form
of a gradual slope, bearing a striking resemblance
to the valley of the Jordan for a mile around
Siegersville, Lehigh Co., Pa. Another principle,
that the width of a valley and the hardness of its
bed is always in proportion t) tie fall of the stream
of water flowing through it, does also find as ample
illustrations in the sweeping Rhine as in any of
the humbler streams whose courses I had watched
and studied at home. These two principles afford
perhaps the strongest and most conclusive of all
proofs, that the hills and valleys of our planet are
all the result of erosion.
The streets of Coblentz are mostly narrow, as are
also its pavements, many of the latter being only
from one to two feet wide. There are several remarkable churches, one, the Church of St. Castor
dating from 1208, being an example of the early
"Lombard style."
In order to enjoy the Rhine scenery to the greatest
advantage, I took passage on a steamer to Bingen,
and started out on Sunday morning at 10 o'clock.
One of the steamers had been delayed about three
hours that morning on account of the fog, but the
day turned out to be a most beautiful one. I took
a seat near the prow of the steamer, where I could
conveniently watch the views of both banks without interruption from  any source. I was now




ON THE BEAUTIFUL RHINE.    195
about to ascend the most romantic part of the Rhine
-the Rhine of history and of poetry, upon whose
precipitous banks the Germans erected their castles
in the early and middle ages and defended their
Fatherland" against the attacks of their warlike
neighbors. Only after one has seen the castled
steam  with its numerous watch-towers crowning
every towering peak, and the indescribable beauties
of this noble river, will the national air, "Die
Wacht Am  Rhein," (Watch At The Rhine), seem
so beautiful to him, as it does to the sons of Germany, whose souls are stirred by its boundless historic associations.
I cannot stop to describe the scores of Schlosser,
(castles), the charming prospects, the beautiful
valleys with their verdant hill-sides peeping into
the Rhine, and the rich vineyards upon its sloping banks in some places, or the romantic scenery
of the bare rocky mountains that rise almost perpendicularly at its sides to the height of 300 to 500
feet, in other places. Several objects clail  particular attention, however.
Some 35 or 40 miles up the river from Coblentz,
on the left bank, rise the imposing rocks of the
Lurlei to the height of 433 feet above the Rhine.
The river is very narrow in this place, has much
fall and makes a decided turn, so that it is with
considerable  difficulty  and  some danger that
steamers make their ascent. The river is here 76
feet deep and its waters form a whirlpool, (Gewirre).




196             FRANKFORT.
This place andi every other ohe of interest along
the Rhine, as well as all its castles, have their
legends. It is said that a siren who had her abode
on the rock, was wont by means of charming music
to entice sailors and fishermen to their destruction
in the rapids at the foot of the precipice.
As it is dangerous for steamers to meet on these
rapids, they have a rule that every steamer coming
up the stream must fire a few small cannons as
soon as it approaches the Lurlei, so that steamers
that are descending may hear it and wait to let the
ascending steamer pass before they enter upon the
rapids.
Near Bingen is the Mouse Tower, so called because the cruel Archbishop Hatto, of Mayence,
had once compared some poor famishing people to
mice bent on devouring corn, and caused them to
be burned in his barn after having invited them to
come there and receive provisions which it had
been his duty to give them. After this outrage he
was immediately attacked by mice, which tormented him day and night. He sought refuge in
this tower, but was followed by his persecutors and
soon devoured alive. Thus runs the legend.
We reached Bingen at 3:30 p. m., and started by
rail for Frankfort on the Main an hour later. At
7:15 we crossed the Rhine by the magnificent iron
bridge at Mayence, from which we had a good view
of the extensive fortifications of that city, also the
rich decorations of the entire city with banners,




FRANKFORT.                  197
for, though it was Sunday, the Republicans (Internationals or Communists as they call themselves) had a great political meeting. I formed
the acquaintance of one of their number who
traveled with me to Frankfort and gave me an invitation to accompany him  to one of their meetings the next evening. The Communists which
fled from  Paris after the storm  of 1871, are now
busy in different countries assisting those opposed
to royalty to form organizations for the purpose of
instituting other revolutionary movements some
future day.
FRANKFORT.
Frankfort, the home of the Rothschilds, down to
1866 a free city of the German Confederation and
the seat of the Diet, has a population of 90,000 inhabitants. It has 20,000 Catholics and 8,000 Jews.
The Romer is historically the most interesting
building in Frankfort. It became the town-hall
in 1405. In the second story is the Kaisersaal
(Imperial Hall) containing the portraits of 47 emperors reigning from A. D. 912 to 1806. In front
of it is the Romerberg, (a large square), or marketplace, which was the scene of public rejoicings on
the occasion of the election of an emperor. After
dining in the Kaisersaal he would show himself
from  the balcony to the assembled multitudes
upon it. Down to the end of the last century no
Jew was permitted to enter it.
The Judengasse (or Jew's street) was founded in




198             DARMSTADT.
1462 and until the beginning of the present century all the Jews of the city lived there in an
isolated community. Every evening and on Sundays and holidays, this street was closed with
gates, and a Jew who would venture into any part
of the town was subject to a heavy penalty.
The Church of St. Paul is immediately behind
the R6mer. It is a circular building having seating capacity for 3,000 adults, and was used in
1848-9 for the meetings of the " German National
Assembly for remodeling the Constitution."
Frankfort is the birthplace of Goethe, and has
embellished one of its squares with a fine monument to his memory. It has also a fine monument
to Schiller and a magnificent one to Gutenberg.
In some of the old streets of this city the upper
stories of the houses are built out over the streets,
making a break in the wall at every story, so that
some of the narrow streets are thus almost arched
over.
I left Frankfort by rail on the 17th of August,
at 2:00 o'clock, and reached Darmstadt at 2:40
p.m.
Before leaving home, I had been presented by
different persons with the addresses of a number
of their friends and acquaintances in different countries of Europe, and also with letters of introduction to them. On account of my unbounded success in forming congenial friendships with foreigners, I never departed from my programme in




DAlRMSTADT.                199
order to meet persons for whom I carried letters,
and consequently met none of them except a young
American lady who had been abroad for several
years with the object of studying the German language, and who was now connected with an educational institution at Darmstadt. Though I had
been almost continually surrounded by tourists
whose society and friendship I enjoyed and appreciated, still this meeting with a friend of one of
my friends at home, seemed to me just like meeting an old acquaintance. We seated ourselves under a tree in the beautiful garden belonging to the
Boarding School, and had a long talk about what
each had seen in Europe, and how the social, political and literary institution of the Old World differ
from those of America. The next day my new
friend kindly accompanied me through the large
museum contained in the Schloss, comprising a
valuable collection of about 700 paintings, among
them  some fine specimens of the Dutch school.
The Library in the Schloss consists of 450,000
volumes. On our way to the Schloss Garden we
saw a little hut nestled in the garrets of other large
buildings and surrounded by them on every side,
except one of its gable-ends. The old peasant (so says
tradition) would not part with it for any price,
therefore his neighbors built their houses around,
beneath and over his, leaving but one side clear
through which he could admit the light of heaven
into his humble apartment! Darmstadt has about




200             DARMSTADT.
40,000 inhabitants, and is one of the cleanest and
most modern in appearance of all the cities that I
met in the Old World. Its broad and shaded.
streets intersecting each other at right angles, give
it much of the appearance of an American city.
The view from the Ludwigsiule commands a fine
prospect of the level country around, with its large
woods of "tall trees" so rare in Europe, and the
Rhein Strasse (Rhine Street) loosing itself only in
the distance, is the straitest and longest street that
I have yet seen.
WORMIS.
Worms is one of the oldest towns in Germany.' The war against the Saxons was planned here in
772, and here the great contest concerning the investure of the bishops with ring and staff was adjusted by the Concordat between the Emp. Henry
Y. and Pope Calixtus II."  It had once 70,000 inhabitants, but it contains now only 15,000, (I- Prodestant).
The Cathedral is a remarkably fine Romanesque
edifice with four elegant towers, and two domes.
The towers are adorned with odd figures of animals and gurgoyles.  Most of this church dates
from the 12th century. In the pediment is " the
figure of a woman with a mural crown, mounted
on an animal, whose four heads (angel, lion, ox,
eagle,) are symbols of the four Evangelists, the
whole being emblematic of the victorious church."
"In the Bishofshof was held the diet of April




WORMS.                   201
1521, in which Luther defended his doctrines in
the presence of Charles V., six electors, and a
numerous assembly, concluding with the words:'Here I stand, I cannot act otherwise, God help
me! Amen. "
The Baptistry contains some curious sculptures.
Upon the roof of the building (stable) represented
in connection with the Nativity, there lies a wheel,
the signification of which no one could tell me.
Among other musical instruments represented in
relief in this church, there are the harp, the bugle
and rows of violins or fiddles!
In the Luther-Platz stands the great Luther
Monument, an imposing memorial of the Great
Reformer. Its execution occupied nine years and
cost $85,000.




CHAPTER XIV.
DIE PFALZ (PALATINATE).
From Worms I went to Frankenthal, where I
spent the night (of August 18th) at the Pfalzhof.
It was now nearly two months since I had left
America, and since that time, in all my wanderings, I had met no people that resembled the
Americans. Even in Germany had I not yet seen
any one whose physiognomy spoke of near kinship
to any that I knew on the other side of the Atlantic. But at
FRANKENTHAL
I was introduced to a new class of experiences
which were as unexpected as they were pleasant.
If I had not here experienced it, I could never
have anticipated the feelings of a lonely wanderer
who, when thousands of miles away from home,
was addressed in tones so like unto the voices of
those he loved to hear at home, that he felt as if
he was all the time hearing familiar voices in every
direction.
At Worms my attention had already been arrested by social phases that reminded  me of
America, but at Frankenthal I met an officer at
the station, who, upon being asked where the peculiar Palatinate dialect was spoken, not only mentioned to me the places, but also gave me a list of




DIE PFALZ.                 203'filzish words that are peculiar to them, most of
ihich are purely Pennsylvania German both in
heir pronunciation and their meanings. A young
irl at the hotel and her brother not only used lan-'uage similar to ours, but betrayed their kinship
n various other ways. I spent about a week in
&annheim, Neustadt, Speyer and the surrounding;ountry, during which time I devoted all my atention to the question of our common ancestry.
Chat those people are cousins to many of our
Pennsylvania Germans can easily be proved in a
rariety of ways, even when we throw aside the tralitional and historic evidences which we have that
nany Pennsylvanians have emigrated from  the
Pfalz in times past. The most convincing proof
Jo those who can not go there and see the people;hemselves, likely consists in the fact that many of,he family names of the Pfailzer and of our Pennsylvania Germans are the same. I attended the
large annual Sangerfest at Neustadt, in which 973
singers from all parts of the Pfalz participated. I
procured a catalogue of their names and found that
a very large proportion are the same as those of
the majority of our people. When we contrast
with this the fact that the proportion of names common between our people and that of any other section, is much smaller, we see the force of the argument. But this is by no means the first thing that
strikes the visitor. Consanguinity or relationship
by blood betrays itself in a hundred ways. Par



204               DIE PFALZ.
ticular words and expressions, peculiar pitches o
the voice, styles of address, forms of salutation:
and special ways of performing certain kinds o
work, tell their tale with an emphasis that make,
itself understood even to the unscientific observer
The expression of the face and the very ring of the
laugh often impressed me with the truth that it wa,
that of a cousin's brother or sister.  I often expressed my surprise at these things to those around
ne, and by a free indulgence in the peculiarities
of their idiom  enlisted the attention and gained
the friendship of those people with magical effect.
From Frankenthal I went to
MANNHEIM,
which is the most regularly built town in Germany.  It is divided into 100 squares like a chessboard, and has about 40,000 inhabitants.  It consists of 20 sections lettered from A to U (the J being excluded from  the nomenclature) and the
squares of each sections numbered from  1 to 5.
As the city enlarges in territory the numbers of
the squares run from 5 upwards.  The streets are
named as in other cities, but the houses are nurmbered around the squares.  Thus the Mcanheimer
Fantilienblatter (a newspaper published  in  the
Pfiilzisch dialect, which is like the Pennsylvania
German) is printed at E 1. 8.-Section E, Square
1, No. 8.
NEUSTADT.
At Neustadt I made my home for half a week




DIE PFALZ.               205
vhence I took excursions into the country. One
ay I went to Drachenfels, walking about 16 miles
n the woods, where I had nothing but paths and
uide-boards to lead me; but the latter are found
wherever two paths meet, so that I could easily
ind my way back again. In order to meet these
people in every sphere of life, I used to go out to
see the poor men and women work in the fields.
Dne Saturday afternoon I struck out from Landau
Loward the Haardt Mountains with a view to put
ap for the night in a certain town that I saw on a
listant hill. When I had come a short distance,
[ overtook a little maiden whom I asked the name
of that town, so that I might ask the way thither
if I should come into a valley where I could not
have pointed it out any longer. I pleased the
young girl very much by presenting her with my
card, and induced her to use her glib tongue
volubly in telling me about their schools-what
they studied, how long'the terms last, &c. She
would get along very well in our Pennsylvania
German dialect.  When we parted, she skipped
away and proudly showed the card which she had
received from an " American," to one of her schoolmates (?). Here one may see women hauling hay
and grain with cows, though I also saw some men
use horses. Toward evening I met a peasant of
Bochingen, who had finished his work and was
about to return home. On learning that I was an
American, he asked me to accompany him to his




206             DIE PFALZ.
village, saying that Kitrmes had come, the grea
jubilee season of the year when all the churche
were being re-dedicated, after which ceremony th
people would go to the public houses and keep u]
dancing and drinking wine and beer from Sunday
noon till Monday night, and that I could therefor*
see a great many Palatinates together in his town
I asked him what hotel accommodations their towi
had; to which he replied that there were severa
hotels and he would conduct me to a good one
On reaching the place I accompanied him first tc
his home and was introduced to his family. I hac
here one of those opportunities, so rare to the
traveler, of seeing the kitchen arrangements of th(
middle and lower classes. When we came to the
hotel he asked the landlord for a room for me, who
immediately came to me and explained that on
account of the great " Fest" (anniversary) he had
turned all the spare rooms of the house into coffeerooms, " but,' said he, " though I know that Americans are used to good accommodations, I can only
offer you the Fruchtkammer (granery) to-night,
where I have a good nice bed for you, however, if
that will suit you." The homelike cheerful tone
and conversation of the landlord at once captivated
me, and when I looked at the large house and saw
all his rooms already filled with guests- enjoying
their wine and beer together, after the German
fashion, I soon decided to stay with them. The
room which he gave me was a very large one in




BOCHINGEN.  207
the second story of the house, and, though there
were large heaps of grain and different kinds of
farming implements there, the end where the bed
stood was clean and inviting, considering the circumstances. There was no lock at the door, but
the landlord's honest face and assurances soon put
me at ease about that matter. He told me that I
might place some barrels against it, however, if I
felt so inclined, which of course I did. There was
a lady in that town who had been spending her
time in Philadelphia for several years, but who had
on this occasion come home to Bochingen on a
visit. An invitation was sent to her in the evening already, asking her to come to the hotel where
an American was waiting to meet her, and early
on Sunday morning she met me in the coffee-room
where we spent the morning. One's partiality to
the English language seldom displeased me in
Europe, but as this lady was a native of that part
of the Pfalz whose people spoke a dialect more like
the Pennsylvania German than I heard anywhere
else, I insisted upon conversing with her in " the
dialect."  The landlord who did not understand
any English was with us most of the time, so that
out of respect for him she also felt constrained to
speak German when he was present, but whenever
he left us she would speak English, the language
of her new American home. She had visited Allentown, Pa., and was well acquainted with the resemblance of the Pf:ilzish and the Pennsylvania




208            HEIDELBERG.
German dialects. I went home to Neustadt that
forenoon and attended the great Pfalzer Sangerfest
(the annual Concert of the Palatinate Choirs). The
city was splendidly decorated with flags, and the
"Fest" was a grand success in every respect. From
Neustadt I went to Speyer, and a day later to
HEIDELBERG.
Heidelberg was the only place where I found
lady ticket agents at the railway station. The station is a very large and important one, and the
positions held by those ladies are of great responsibility. In Continental Europe, it is the ladies
that transact most of the business in almost every
city. Hotels, stores, shops, cafes, drinking stands,
&c., are generally managed by ladies.
Heidelberg was the last city in which I felt that
I was hourly seeing the cousins of the Pennsylvania Germans.  Here still, I did occasionally see
one who not only favored some of our people in
form and features, but whose voice and accent also
spoke of kinship. I had heard persons speak in
some parts of the Pfalz and particularly around
Bochingen (about 10 miles S. S. W. from Neustadt
and 25 miles W. S. W. from Speyer) from 50 to 70
per cent. of whose words corresponded to the Pennsylvania German. Dirkheim, Landau, (and some
say, Kaiserslautern too), are good examples.
The old renowned university of Heidelberg has
800 students, and a, library of 200,000 volumes and
1,800 MSS.




THE CASTLE.                 209
The castle is the most magnificent ruin in Germany. The towers, turrets, buttresses, balconies, and
fine statues still stand there, proud and bold, even
in its ruins. And the portcullis of iron in one of
its lofty gateways gave me the first idea how the
balance of the enemy could be shut off, after a portion hadbeen admitted into the yard of the fortifications with a view of slaughtering them. The
iron bars of this portcullis or sliding gate are very
thick and heavy, and have sharp points below. A
tower stands over the gate, into which the portcullis is drawn up. The defenders of castles would
sometimes conceal themselves and keep perfectly
silent on the approach of an enemy, as if the castle
had been abandoned, but as soon as as large a portion of them as they thought they could dispose of,
had entered, the portcullis was dropped, which, on
account of its immense weight, of course made its
way to the ground even if it had to pierce the
bodies of a dozen that stood under it! Hereupon
the alarm  was sounded and all that were inside
were barbarously slaughtered.  In some castles
there were large pit-falls full of pointed spears
standing upwards. As soon as a large part of the
enemy were upon this pit, they would be precipitated into the spears below! At other places there
were immense rollers, and only one approach to
the castle, which lead directly up the hill. When
the assaulting enemy made its approach by this,
and the hillside was filled with the enemy's sol



210            HEIDELBERG.
diers, these rollers would be loosened upon them,
and thus the bodies of many thousands would be
mangled in a minute! Such was the barbarity of
the ancients.
I will not forget the long walk I had all alone
through one of the underground passages of the
Heidelberg Castle. I saw a pale light at the other
end, when I entered; but it was dark in the middle, and turned out to be much longer than I had
anticipated. These passages are about 7 feet high
and 10 feet wide, and are arched by a brick vault.
The illumination of this ruined castle on the evening of August 23rd, constituted one of my grandest
sights in all Europe. It seemed to be enveloped
with flames of such an intense heat, that its walls,
towers, &c., appeared to be about to melt down!
As the colors of the illuminating light changed
suddenly from yellowish white to blue, green and
red, the scene was so indescribably beautiful, that
numbers of the ten thousand spectators actually
went into raptures.
THE TUN,
in the castle of Heidelberg, the largest of all the
tuns in the world, is 32 feet long, 22 feet in diameter
at both ends and 23 feet in the center. Its eighteen
wooden hoops are 8 inches thick and 15 inches
broad, and its 127 staves are 9t inches thick. The
bung-hole is 3 to 4 inches in diameter. To built
it cost the enormous sum of $32,000, and its capacity is equal to about 2,200 common barrels! On




THE GREAT TUN.                 211
top of it is a dancing-floor having the bung-hole in
the center! What a joy it must be for the dancers
to reflect that there is such a flood of wine still beneath them! This giant tun erected as an altar to,
the jovial God "Bacchus," has been filled completely three times, (1753, 1760, 1766).
"In Heidelberg beim grossen Fass
Da liess sich's frdhlich sein,
Bei einem vollgefiulten Glas
Von edlem Pfalzer Wein;
Den als dies Fass kam einst zum stand
Do war ein Jubel in dem Land,
Da freut' sich Alles, Gross und Klein,
Denn voll war es mit Pfilzer Wein."
" In Heidelberg, the'Grosse Fass,'
Caused merry days to shine,'When all enjoyed the well filled glass
Of noble Pfilzer wine;
For when this Tun first came to light,
All did in joy combine,
To see the' Fass,' oh wondrous sight!
Fill'd up with Ptalzer wine."
The Philosophenweg, (Philosopher's way), two
miles in length, commands some of the finest prospect on the Rhine. It winds through charming
vineyards, and from  it may be enjoyed splendid
views of the town, castle, valley, and of the beautiful outlines of the Haardt Mountains and the
cathedral of Speyer in the distance.




212              STRASSBURG.
From Heidelberg I went to Stuttgart remarkable for the vast collection of books (300,000 vols.)
in the Royal Library.  Among these are about
9,000 Bibles, in some 80 languages!
The Railway Station in Stuttgart is remarkable
both for magnificence and the beauty of its interior.  Its wide and lofty passages and splendid
waiting-rooms,.are among the grandest in the world.
From  Stuttgart I went to Carlsruhe, famous for
the manner in which the streets meet at the Castle,
from  every point of the compass.  Some thirty
streets meet here like so many sticks of a circular
fan. Near the Botanic Garden, is a large Hall of
Art rich in paintings and relics.
STRASSBURG.
Strassburg, the capital of Alsace and Lorraine, is
situated on the River Ill, 2 miles from the Rhine,
and comprises a population of 80,000 inhabitants.
Its Cathedral, covering more than an acre of ground
and 216 feet in height, is deservedly famous. Its
elegant spire, the highest in Europe, is 465 feet in
height.  To procure a permit from the city authorities to ascend to the "lantern," which is immediately below the extreme summit, I walked about
the city nearly an hour to find the proper official.
The view from the platform or roof of the building
(216 feet high) affords a fine view of the beautiful
plains of Alsace, but many ascend tothe "lantern"
simply for the satisfaction of saying that they have
done it.  No one is allowed to go higher than the




BLACK FOREST.                  213,
platform, except by special permission from  the
city authorities, and accompanied by a guide and
protector, for which an extra ticket is required.
The ascent is quite easy for some distance, but by
and by the spire becomes too narrow to have stairs
on the inside, so that we had to climb up on the
outside along ladder-like steps.  If one would become giddy in this place, he might fall from a
hight of over four hundred feet into the street below! I cannot stop to speak of the world-renowned
astronomical clock which is contained in  this
cathedral.
The railroad through the Black Forest is one of
the great victories of civil engineering which characterize this age of great undertakings.  We passed
in exactly one hour through 38 tunnels, during
which time, in our ascent of the mountains, we
passed through one valley three times! When we
had reached the highest point, we saw the two
other tracks at different elevations on the mountain side below us!  Here we passed for many
hours through pine forests, all the trees of which
were raised from  seed, (some sown. and others
planted). lMany square miles of this mountainous
section is covered with pines planted as regularly
as our orchards; and the scenery of these mountain-sides green with dense forests in which the
comical tree-tops stand with mathematical exactness in the square or quincunx order, is among the
most beautiful imaginable.




CHAPTER XV.
SWITZERLAND.
It is almost impossible to describe the scenery
of the Alps to one who had never yet ascended
mountains above the region of the clouds, without
so bewildering his imagination that his fancy will
call forth and accept more fictitious notions than
true ones. The best description that I had ever
heard of the Alps, was the occasion of my most incorrect conceptions about them.  I think the
speaker did not misstate or exaggerate anything in
a single word, but as he could in an hour's talk
tell only one tenth of what one ought to know, in,order to form a correct notion of what the Alps
look like, my fanciful imagination promptly supplied the coloring of the other nine tenths of the
picture which he left untouched; and consequently
when I came to see the Alps, I found them entirely.different from what I had anticipated.
The ordinary school maps represent the Alps as
extending along the borders of Switzerland, as if
they consisted of a single range, or possibly of
several parallel ranges, and Mount Blanc as its
towering peak. With what surprise a scholar who
only saw these maps, will look about him, when
he reaches the summit of any high peak in Switzerland!  On the Rigi, for example, one sees an




ALPINE SWITZERLAND.              215
extent of territory almost 300 miles in circuit, every
part of which is studded with ice-capped peaks.
These range not in any one particular direction,
nor do they number only several dozen, but many
hundreds of them stand around the beholder toward every point of the compass and at variable
distances, from the Pilatus near by to the most distant part of the horizon-more than 50 miles away.
The snow-clad crowns of many of these rise high
above the clouds, so that' Through the parting clouds only
The earth can be seei,
Far down'neath the vapour
The meadows of green."
Those forms of clouds called cumuli, (P. G. Gewitter Wolken), presenting themselves the appearance of mountains covered with ice, often creep
around these peaks at less than half their height!
At Zurich I first beheld the strange sight of
mountains and clouds piled upon each other so
that I could not well distinguish them. It was on
a sunny afternoon that I stood on the banks of
the Zuricher See (Lake Zurich) and, looking over
its calm waters, I beheld in the distant southeast
a strange phenomenon.  There stood the high
glittering banks of clouds, and over them I saw
the black sides of a towering peak whose top was
covered with ice and snow. I then visited the Rigi
and looked at Alpine Switzerland from its giddy
heights. This, since the railroad has been com



216               THE PIG.
pleted to its top, is one of the most famous mountains in Switzerland. Though it stands beneath
the line of perpectual snow, its top being covered
with grass in summer, still it commnands a panoramic view of indescribable grandeur. Numerous
hotels stand around the top where thousands of
tourists find shelter during the summer nights, and
among them is one of the finest hotels in the world.
When fall comes, all the landlords must take their
families and move down from the mountain, as it
would be impossible to keep the track of the railroad clear during the winter to bring up the necessary provisions for them. The snow is often from
10 to 20 feet deep on these Alps.
All Swiss scenery, whether one is on the lakes,
upon the mountains, or in the valleys and ravines,
is singularly charming, and bears no resemblance
to the scenery which one sees elsewhere; so that
for this lack of having something with which to
compare it, no one can do it justice in any description short of a volume. The reader will therefore
pardon our haste in this country. One who sees
the rest of Europe and not Switzerland, will not
miss any particular links in the historic chain of
social, religious and political development of the
human race, but he will not have seen the sublime
in nature. The Alps are the poetry of inorganic
creation, and a week or two spent on their lakes,
in their valleys and gorges, amid the high waterfalls or upon their snowfields and glaciers, teaches




ALPINE SWITZERLAND.               217
one to associate new meanings to the words, grand,
sublime, lofty, inspiring, overawing, romantic, wild,
precipitous and bewildering, &c. It took me two
days to ascend as high as the Rhone glacier, during
which time I walked over 30 miles up hill along
old military roads which the Romans constructed
through Switzerland. I saw the snow and ice on
the first day already, and it seemed as if I was but
a little below it, but in place of reaching the snow
line in the afternoon as I judged I might, I did not
reach it until the next afternoon at 5:00 o'clock.
The valleys are narrow and the mountains rise in
some places almost perpendicularly at the sides,
so that the snow and ice which melts near the tops
of the mountains, falls down thousands of feet into
the streams below.  Water-falls that are from
several hundred to a thousand feet in height are
numerous among the Alps.
The Giessbach Falls which I ascended on the
6th of September, descends in a series of seven cascades 1,148 feet, and the Handeck Falls, which I
passed on the 5th, precipitates in an unbroken
sheet from the height of 250 feet! Rainbows stand
over all the falls of the Alps, whenever the sun
shines.
On the second day (Sept. 4th) of my ascend of
the Alps, I could look upwards and see the eternal
snows, or look down into the valleys, and see the
people in the meadows and fields making hay or
cutting grain! Haymakers may drink the water




218       ALPINE SWITZERLAND.
that was an hour before part of the mass of ice and
snow which they see hanging near the top of the
mountains several thousand feet above their heads!
Avalanches slide down into the valleys every month
of the year, and I passed through tunnels and
bridges that are purposely constructed that the
snow may thus slide over the roads without doing
harm to any one. Where the mountains rise too
precipitously, it is in some places impossible to
oonstruct a road along the edge; in these cases
they pierce through the mountains for considerable
distances. The Axenstrasse, along Lake Luzerne,
has many such tunnels, one of which is about one
eighth of a mile in length. In the Grimsel, the
road avoids a water-fall by passing through a tunnel under it.
The Rhone Glacier, the only ice-field that I
crossed, is upwards of nine niiles in length and
rises from 5,751 feet to 10,450 feet in height. About
the time of sunset on the 4th of September, I entered the cavern of ice from which issues the stream
that constitutes the source of the Rhone River.
"This is the Rhodanus of the ancients, which was
said to issue'from the gates of eternal night at the
foot of the pillar of the sun.' 
I descended through the Grimsel pass (7,103
feet) and Haslithal along the upper waters of the
Aare down to Meiringen, in one day. Though
there is only a bridle-path through the almost unparalled wildnesses of this valley, still there.is a




ALPINE SWITZERLAND.               219
telegraphic wire running up to the hotel at the
upper end, near the Rhone Glacier! No language
can describe the picturesqueness of the bare rocky
sides of this valley. I heard persons who thought
they were alone, utter a dozen exclamations of
surprise while making a single turn where a new
view opened! The solitary tourist will ejaculate
his exclamations without number; and it is under
such circumstances that the unpoetical soul seeks
some personification to whom it may do homage.
It would not require a worshipper of images to
kneel down, in the Grimsel or Ober Haslithal, before any emblem that embodied any adequate representation of the crushingly sublime scenery that
one beholds there!
I met a lake whose depths seemed as boundless
as the blue heavens above me. The water of many
of the Swiss lakes is as clear as crystal, so that white
objects at their bottoms may be discerned at great
depths.
While sailing along the Lake of Geneva one day,
I could as little see substance in the water below
me, when I looked upon it at a certain distance
from the steamer, as in the clear sky; both seemed
alike blue and boundless!
The weather and the temperature changes very
suddenly among the high Alps. The climate in
the valleys of Switzerland is as warm as ours, in
su1mmer, while some thousand feet higher lie the
everlasting glaciers.  From  these, avalanches of




220            SWITZERLAND.
cold air precipitate into the valleys, so that the
mercury often falls from  20 to 30 degrees in ten
minutes! One is in danger of taking "a cold"
every day in Switzerland.
Besides " The Alps" and the lovely lakes among
them, the tourist may also see castles, museums,
art galleries, pleasure gardens, &c., in Switzerland,
but I will only enumerate a few of the most striking objects that I met and saw in this curious country, and then pass on to Italy.
One of the bridges of Lucerne is adorned with
very curious paintings representing the " Dance of
Death."  Scores of skeletons, some blowing the
bugle or playing with the triangles, others equipped
with hoes and spades, are jubilant over their work!
One of the finest organs in Europe is the farfamed one at Freiburg, having 67 stops and 7,800
pipes, some of them 33 feet long.  This instrument
has such a range of volume that it can simulate
the roaring thunder as well as the faintest echo.
The portal of the same cathedral which contains
the famous organ is also adorned (?) with a curious
representation of the last judgment. St. Peter leads
the blessed to the.door of Heaven, but half a dozen
evil ones busy themselves in disposing of the
wicked.  One of them that has a head like a hog,
carries then from  the scales into a large caldron
where they are boiled.  Others with forks in their
hands pitch them  into the mouth of the large
dragon-devil who is represented as glutting them,




SWITZERLAND.                 221
and whose capacious mouth admits of several of
them at a time! The time has almost arrived when
one may no longer describe what he sees in the
churches of Europe! This reminds me of a monster that stands upon a fountain in Bern, called
the Kindlifresser, (the Ogre), who is in the act of
eating a child, while others doomed to the same
fate protrude from his girdle and pockets!
Berne is a great place for bears. Besides those
connected with the curious machinery of the:clock
on one of its clock-towers, among the dead bears,
they also keep a large den of living bears at the
expense of the government. The bear is the heraldic emblem of Switzerland, as is our eagle of American freedom.
Of the fictitous hero, William Tell, and the nature
and character of the Swiss Republic, I can not say
more in the compass of this book, than that the
former is a myth and that the latter was in a great
measure the outgrowth of poverty.
The reader may form an idea of the miserable
dwellings of the peasantry on the mountains, when
he is told that many are hardly distinguishable
from the stables in which the cattle are sheltered.
When I came into view of Guttannen, the first
village of any considerable extent that I passed
after seeing the Rhone Glacier and the wildnesses
of the Grimsel and Haslithal, where no houses
except hotels, and in some places not even trees or
grass abound, I felt glad once more to see a group




222            SWITZERLAND.
of human habitations, and determined to count
them, so that I might record their number.  I
passed along the edge of the mountains where I
could easily overlook the village, but it was in many
instances impossible to determine by a survey of
their external appearances, which were the stables
and which the houses or huts, so I counted them
all, large and small, and found their number between 60 and 90. I once intended to count these
buildings only with windows, as houses; but I
soon discovered that some huts had windows only
on one or several sides, and looked like stables on
the other sides!
A question to dairy men: Do thunder and lightning affect fresh milk? A lady keeping a cafe in
Brienz, told me that if a thunder storm  overtook
those which were bringing the fresh milk from the
mountains, the milk would suddenly turn sour, so
that it could no longer be boiled for drinking it
sweet. She said, "Es thut sie verbole7a, so das sie
gerinnt wen man sie kochen will!"




CHAPTER XVI.
GENEVA TO TURIN.
Switzerland has two national languages, the German and the French, both of which are recognized
by the Government. Geneva is French, so I had
some trouble in getting my information and procuring a ticket for Italy. I left Geneva at 6:40 a.
m., September 10th, and after passing through a
number of tunnels, one of which required 5bminutes of moderate railway speed, we arrived at
Bellegarde, on the French border, and passed muster. From 9:00 to 10:00 o'clock we were detained
at Culoz, and by noon we saw the snow-covered
Alps again. At 3:30 p. m., we arrived at Modane
and passed muster for Italy.
MONT CENIS TUNNEL.
We entered the mouth of this great tunnel, over
8 miles in length, at 4:582 p. nm., and were exactly
26 minutes in the very bowels of the earth,
where absolute darkness reigns. Temperature in
the middle, 59~ Fahrenheit.
ITALY.
We now come to a country which contrasts as
strangely with the nations of western Europe, as
those do with America, or as Alpine Switzerland
does with the rest of the world. When I parted
at Paris with my New York friend, he bound for




224        BEAUTIFUL ITALY'S
Rome, I for the north, we still had our school-boy
ideas of Germany, Switzerland and Italy; and I
shall never forget the remark which he then made,
and which embodied my notions and anticipations
perhaps as well as his own. He said, " I suppose
we have now seen the brightest side of the picture,
the trouble is that scenes will now become tamer
as we advance toward the cradle of humanity."  I
had been pleasantly disappointed almost every
time that I entered a new country, but now, as I
was entering Italy, I expected that I would surely
not see much to interest me except her rich stores
of art and the ancient ruins. But less than a day
at Turin convinced me that I had by no means
entered a country whose people were behind hand
in civilization and refinement; and when on my
way from Turin to Milan I saw how much clearer
and brighter the blue heavens were, how much
sweeter the air smelt than any I had ever breathed
before, (not excepting that of Paris, even), and how
imuch fairer the people were than any other that I
had yet seen, I felt that I must surely be on the
border of that charming paradise which the poets
make of Italy, but for which I had never given
them due credit.
ITALY'S FAIR SONS AND DAUGHTERS.
I now come to a dry subject, especially for old
people; but numbers of my young friends, among
them several editors and teachers, requested me
very earnestly to take particular notice which




FAIR SONS AND DAUGHTERS.    225
country contained the fairest specimens of the
human species. Why these literary characters are
so deeply interested in this question, I cannot tell,
but my duty is plain enough-they want" a true
and impartial statement of the facts," which I will
endeavor to render them. I observed everywhere
that culture and personal beauty always go together.
When I came to a city that had clean and beautiful streets and houses, I invariably found good
looking people there; but in the rural districts
generally, and in suburbs and wretched towns,
beauty and culture are at a lower ebb. I now refer
to that form of beauty which is dependent upon
personal accomplishments and intellectual endowments and culture-that beauty which beams from
an intellectual countenance and sparkles from eyes
that glisten with pleasure. That is the kind of
beauty that renders 90 per cent. of the individuals
in all cultivated society acceptable, and 20 per
cent. charming and attractive, but which is wanting to nine tenths of those who cannot, or do not,
pay attention to cultivation and refinement. There
are a very few persons whose forms and features
please and fascinate even without the aid of accomplishments. These may be said to be possessed of
native beauty, which is met with very seldom in
all countries that have a climate unfavorable to
health. If I had not gone to Italy, I should not
have hesitated to give my preference to the mild
climate of Paris, where health and beauty are the.




226         BEAUTIFUL ITALY'S
natural result of a warm temperature, almost semitropical in mildness, and where the highest art
assists to make every grace shine. But when I saw
how nature dotes upon Italy, I felt as if she was
only acting the step-mother to the rest of the world.
The loveliest portion of Italy is the valley of the
Po. One sees fewer sickly or consumptive people
in some parts of England, France and Germany,
than in our section of America, but in Turin and
Milan every person looks hale, healthy, happy and
beautiful, from the tender days of infancy to a
ripe old age.
Nothing that I saw in Europe surprised me more
than to come so suddenly into the midst of a people whose very countenance bear the bloom  of
youth, even until the gray locks of age appear.
Old age even knows no wingles here! I know
that it seems incredible to any one that has never
been in warmer clinmes, but the word beauty has
a new meaning here. The glow which is lambent
upon the faces of the sons and daughters of this
section of sunny Italy, is something that I never
saw elsewhere, and that cannot be described. It
is a solemn truth, that nine tenths of all the ladies
of Turin and Milan are perfect beauties; and I
need not say less for the full round forms of the
gentlemen. Only after I had observed that several
very fair persons, who happenedc to pass near me,
had gray hair, did I notice that the bloom of youth
still glows upon the faces of those who are 35 to 40




FAIR SONS AND DAUGHTERS.   227
years of age! WVhen I first came into this paradise
of fairy angels, (for a paradise is the valley of the
Po), I mistook this bloom  of youth and glow of
health and vigor for the lambent flames which flash
from  the countenances of the intellectual-it
seemed to me that I must be surrounded by a halo
of literary sages and muses, all gifted alike with
every grace and charm that nature can bestow or
art improve; but when I observed the youths at
work in the fields and the maidens at the garden
gates, who turned for a moment from their respective tasks to see our train move along, look as
happy, as gay and as beautiful as the belles of the
cafes and the beaus of the cities, I concluded that
it must be the healthy state of the body that makes
every face look rosy and bright in this fair and
sunny clime. At Milan I asked some of my companions how far this paradise of beauties extended
southward in Italy.  "To Florence," was the
answer. But I did not find that to be quite correct, for though Florence may have more fair people than any northern city, the proportion of beauties to the whole population, which is perhaps
ninety per cent. in Turin and Milan, cannot be
more than 20 or 30 per cent. in Florence. In order
to be able to correct any false impression that I
might have imbibed in my first visit to the valley
of the Po, I paid particular attention to the same
subject on m.y return from Egypt. At Milan there
was then an immense concourse of people assem



228         BEAUTIFUL ITALY'S
bled from  all parts of Europe to see Emperor
William of Germany and King Victor Emanuel of
Italy parade the streets of that elegant city, with a
retinue of over 20,000 soldiers; the consequence
was, that the fair people of Milan were lost in the
multitude. But on my return to Turin, I. found
that her beautiful sons and daughters, again presented the same dream-like and enchanting scene of
a pleasure-garden full of fair and merry beings possessed of angelic beauty, and enjoying their blessed
existance just as I had seen them a month before.
I met travelers that say the same thing of Nature's children in other sunny lands-Spain for
example. The truth seems to be, that in warm
climates only, will man attain that perfect healthy
and beautiful physical development which has constituted the model of the artist and the theme of
the poet, in every age. I have heard some pronounce the statue of Venus de Medici, the ideal
perfection of female form and beauty. It is probably as near as sculpture can reach it, but who
would suppose that a white stone could do justice
to the beauty of a pure child of nature? The
marble may present a most perfect form; but what
becomes of the glow of life and flush of beauty
upon the maiden's cheek, the ruby lips and the
grace and elegance of her movements and winning
manners? We may speak of ideal beauty in countries where the physical. development of the inhabitants is blasted by the severities of the ex



FAIR SONS AND DAUGHTERS.   229
treme heat and cold of an inhospitable clime,
where the blasts of winter make every form shiver
for many months of the year; but the superior
beauty of the daughters of Northern Italy, if they
were placed side by side with Venus de Medici,
would laugh that frigid form to scorn! As compared with these, I thought I had seen no others
that could either talk or laugh or walk!
The Italians live upon a very simple diet. When
I first saw numbers of them make meals of dry
bread and fruit, I supposed poverty impelled them
to partake of so scant a diet, but by the time I
came back from Egypt, I too had learned to sit
down and eat dry bread and grapes together, though
I could procure meat as cheap in Italy as elsewhere in Europe. It is not advisable to partake of
much meat in any warm country. Any one may
form an idea of what kind of a consumer of food
cold is, when he reflects how much more flesh we
consume in winter than in summer. I did not
partake of more than half the amount of food in
southern Italy and Egypt that I needed in England, Germany or Switzerland, and there is little
room for doubt that many Italians do with one
third of the amount of food that we require in the
severer climate of the Middle States. I was always
reminded of the story of " Cornaro the Italian," related in Wilson's Fourth Reader, whenever I saw
them eat their simple meals. It is very singular,
too, that they should all look full, healthy and




230                 MILAN.
robust; and many of us, on the contrary, lean and
sickly. Twelve ounces of solid food and thirteen
ounces of drink, seems a very spare supply to an
American, but I do not believe that it is accounted
very extraordinary in Italy.
MILAN.
The praises of the magnificence and splendor of
the Cathedral of Milan are sung all over the world.
It is nearly 500 feet long and 250 feet wide through
the transepts, covering an area of almost tw6 acres
and three quarters! The height of the nave is 150
feet! Its entire walls, and its pinnacles, spire and
roof are all constructed of fine marble. The spire
is over 350 feet high. The marble slabs constituting the roof are about three inches thick; how
enormous the weight of that roof must be! Each of
the 135 pinnacles or smaller spires is crowned with
a statue, and throngs of others (some 4,500 )ornament the outside of this magnificent building.
The interior of this edifice is one of the most imposing in the world. As I looked at the rich decorations and delicate traceries of its high ceiling,
150 feet above me, I felt as if no human being could
be worthy of enjoying such a magnificent view.
But, "unless a language be invented full of lanceheaded characters, and Gothic vagaries of arch and
finial, flower and fruit, bird and beast," the beauties
and glories of the temples of Italy, and her unparalleled galleries of art, can never be described.
From  Milan I went to Vicenza, where I spent a




VENICE.                  231
sleepless night in skirmishes with the mosquitoes!
The number and variety of obnoxious insects multiplies fearfully as one approaches the topical regions. Thence I went to
VENICE.
As I was very much disappointed with Venice,
I shall not occupy much time in describing this
daughter of the sea. The railway bridge which leads
to this city is about two miles long. I expected
that a-city whose streets are canals and whose
carriages are all boats, would present a very
unique appearance, but when I once saw them,
they were so exactly what I had anticipated, that
I felt disgusted and left the city without doing justice even to the vast collection of paintings in the
Ducal Palace, which alone is worth going a great
distance to see.
SAN MARCO.
The church of San Marco is one of the grandest
and most wonderful structures in Italy, and I can
only refrain from copying Ruskin's very fine description of it, because his account, though true in
every particular, would, to one who has never seen
any of the architectural glories of Italy, seem more
like the attempt of a poet to depict in glowing
language the vagaries of a dream, than  like
the description of an edifice really in existance.
On the Piazza above the portal of San Marco,
stand the celebrated bronze horses " which Constantine carried from  Rome to Constantinople,




232               ITALY.
whence Marino Zeno brought them hither in 1205;
they were taken to Paris by Napoleon in 1797, but
restored by the Allies in 1815."




CHAPTER XVII.
VENICE TO BOLOGNA.
In place of spending several cays at Venice, as
I now think I should have, I left already in the
afternoon at 3:35 o'clock, and reached Bologna that
evening. It required between 6 and 7 minutes to
cross the bridge, over two miles long, which connects Venice with the land. The water is not deep,
and most of this bridge is a mere bank of earth
running into the sea. It was on account of my
being disgusted at the general unpretending appearance of Venice, that I left her so soon. Among
the objects of interest that I saw between Venice
and Bologna, was a herd of a hundred deer on a'
hill-side, and the merry bells of stage-teams jingling like our sleigh-bells, but which may be heard
in Italy and Switzerland all the year round. When
I observed in my Satchel Guide that Bologna has
two leaning towers, one of them nearly 300 feet high
leaning 4 feet, and. the other about half that height
and leaning 8 feet, I determined to go and see them.
They are massive but plain brick structures, and
it is difficult to decide which way the higher one
leans. The inclination of the lower one, however,
is decided, but presents nothing striking or threatening in its appearance.  I felt afraid that the
Leaning Tower of Pisa might possibly also fail to




234              FLORENCE.
present anything that was remarkable or imposing
to the beholder when I would come to see it once,
just as a thousand and one other objects do which
antiquity and poetry have rendered sacred and
famous; and I walked away with down-cast countenance and took passage for Firenze (Florence).
FLORENCE.
The Cathedral, (I1 Duomo), begun in 1298, is
554 feet long,/and 334 feet through the transepts.
The nave is 152 feet high; the cupola is 138 feet
in diameter or about the same as that of St. Peter's
in Rome, for which it also served Michael Angelo
as a model.
Close by the cathedral is Giotto's Campanile, 300
feet high, the most beautiful of all the towers that
I have seen in Europe. The square blocks of many
colored marble with which its four sides are coated,
produce a richness of effect that is indescribable.
Decorated from top to bottom with all manner of
statues and architectural ornamentations, "it is
like a toy of ivory, which some ingenious and pious
monk might have spent his life-time in adorning
with sculptural designs and figures of saints; and
when it was finished, seeing it so beautiful, he
prayed that it might be miraculously magnified
from the size of one foot to that of three hundred."
The view of this superb structure in connection
with the grand edifice (the Cathedral) to which it
belongs, opens so. suddenly upon the visitor, that
he will never forget what feelings of joy and sur



FLORENCE.                 235
prise he experienced on maling the last turn
around the corner, when these splendid edifices
leaped upon him  so unexpectedly in all their
beauty and magesty.
The church of Santa Croce, whose foundation
was laid in 1294, is "the Pantheon of Tuscany."
It contains the tomb of Michael Angelo, and magnificent monuments of Dante, of Alfiero, of Macchiavelli, of Galileo and of many others of less
falm e.
The houses in which were born Michael Angelo,
Dante, Amerigo Vespucci, Macchiavelli and Galileo
may be found and identified by the memorial tablets which mark them.
Piazza della Signoria is the business as well as the
historic center of Florence. Here stands the old
capitol of the republic, begun in 1298. It was
afterwards the residence of Cosmo I.  Near this
palace is a magnificent fountain of the time of
Cosmo I. I cannot tell positively, now, whether
the sculpture and architecture of Florence is so
much richer than what I saw elsewhere in Europe,
or whether the enchanting beauty of sculpturesque
and architectural master-strokes at the Cathedral,
the Campanile, St. Croce, and the Fountain and
Palace in this magnificent square, may not have
thrown me into the condition of one in a dream;
but I certainly felt all the time that I spent in
Florence like one in another world, where scenes of
fascinating beauty were surrounding me on every




236              FLORENCE.
side, and feelings of ecstatic delight precluding me
from any but a dream-like enjoyment of the scenery
around. I was without any acquaintance or companion the whole day, which in connection with
the fact that I was thousands of miles away from
the familiar scenes of home, where every object that
I contemplated was new and different from what
I was wont to see, could not fail to make me' feel
like one in a dream. I went along the Portico degli
Uffii adorned with throngs of statues of celebrated
Tuscans, and  into the famous Uffizi Gallery,
founded by the Medici, and one of the most precious
collections in the world. In the Tribune, the inner
sanctuary of the great temple of art (" the richest
room in all the world, a heart that draws all hearts
to it") I saw the Venus de Medici, the Dancing
Faun, the Apollino, the Wrestlers, and other
masterpieces of ancient sculpture; also, among the
paintings, some of the best works of Raphael,
Angelo, Titian and others. I must however admit
that the out-door scenery of Florence charmed me
more than what I saw in its world renowned
museum. It seens to me, that Raphael and M.
Angelo deserve more praise for the inventive genius
which they evinced in translating bible stories and
poetical imagery into pictures, than for their mechanical execution. To such as understand anything about paintings, it will seem very absurd, of
course, that I should presume to criticise the paintings of these great masters, but they must admit




FLORENCE.                  237
that a hundred of those who roam the world and
come to see the works of the masters, are ignorant
ot painting and sculpture, as I am, to half a dozen
that are able to criticise them from the standpoint
of one who is himself an artist. The " hundred"
unskilled in the fine arts, have as great a desire to
know how they will likely be affected by the sight
of those works as the half dozen artists are; permit
nme to speak to the " hundred!"  It is true that the
paintings of Raphael and Angelo may have faded,
but, whatever they may have been when they were
first hung to the wall, they now look pale, shady
and inferior in artistic execution to many of those
of Rubens and of the masters of the Dutch school
in general; that is, if we consider nature as the
standard and copying it as the only criterion of a
master's talents. But for inventive originality of
conception, the Dutch masters are no rivals even,
certainly not, of the Italians.
Need I repeat that wherever one finds such a
rich store of art as in Florence, there too will he
find ladies and gentlemen of beauty, culture and
refinement?  The same fascinating  forms and
features which characterize the men and women of
Turin and Milan, are also met with here, but they
comprise a much smaller proportion of the whole
population. It is fair to presume, however, that a
large proportion of those which I saw in Florence
were natives of distant parts of the globe, which
streamed thither, by the thousand, to see that




238              FLORENCE.
charming city. One can nowhere see more intelligent company than in such a place as Florence;
but how the most symmetrical and best looking
people of all other countries contrast with Italian
beauties, none but those few who ever go thither
will ever learn to form the least conception of. It
has become my duty, however, to record the fact,
that the most favored of all countries when they
sail into the society of the fair daughters of sunny
Italy cast a shadow about them, as we may fancy
any human would when coming into the company
of the beautiful angels of a heavenly Paradise. Go
reader, if you cannot visit Italy personally, and see
what the poets say about these people, and believe
every word they can say in favor of their charms.
PISA.
From  Florence I went to Pisa with the special
object of seeing the famous Leaning Tower (11741350). It is circular, having 15 pillars in the wall
of the first story and 30 in each of the six succeeding ones. On top of these, is another one (the
eighth) much smaller than the rest, and probably
built upon it after the tower had reached the
amount of inclination which it now has. The entire structure is 187 feet high, and 173 feet 9 inches
in circumference (according to my own measurement). The walls are from 5 to 7 feet thick. There
is a peal of bells at the top, the heaviest weighing
6 tons. Nothing is more evident than that this
tower assumed its leaning position by accident. It




PISA.                   239
is probable that this structure, which is the finest
in Italy except Giotto's Campanile at Florence,
was originally designed to be a very high one, (perhaps 300 feet). It is likely that the foundation did
not give way until at the seventh story, and that after
it came to a stand-still again, they capped it off
abruptly by the odd little story which we now see
at the top of it. The inclination amounts to about
13 feet. There is a circular pavement around it
about 10 feet wide, which has the same angle of
inclination that the tower itself has. It is sunk 3
feet into the ground on one side and 8 feet on the
otherside. Upon careful examination and measurement I discovered that the diameter of the basin
thus formed is to the height of the tower, as the inclination of pavement constituting the floor of the
basin is to the amount of inclination of the tower.
Let it be remembered, that this tower is not an
independent structure, but that it stands near the
east end of the Cathedral, as the elegant campanile
at Florence stands near the cathedral of that city.
THE CATHEDRAL.
The Cathedral (1063-1118) is 311 feet long, 106
feet wide, and the nave 109 feet high. The great
bronze lamp which gave Galileo the hint of the
pendulum, still hangs in its nave.
The Baptistry (1153-1278) stands a little distance from the west end of the Cathedral. It is
about 120 feet in diameter and its dome is 180
feet high. Peabody considers it " the most fault



240         GOING SOUTHWARD.
lessly and exquisitely beautiful building" he ever
saw.
These three most elegant buildings, the Cathedral, the Baptistry and the Campanile or Leaning
Tower, are a unite in architectural beauty and design, and for effect in external appearance are
scarcely outvied by anything that I have seen of
the kind in all Italy. No one will feel sorry for
having traveled a hundrsd miles to see the " Leaning Tower," and the traveler will observe with
pleasure and satisfaction that its two companions
are even more elegant than itself.
On. Tuesday noon, September 15th, I left Pisa
for Rome. It was continually
GETTING WARMER,
as I progressed southward. At London I had received information that I must by no means go to
Rome before October, as I might not be able to
endure the intense heat of summer in central
Italy.
The tourist must not always believe all that is
said. Though it is not so pleasant to visit Rome
in July or August, as later in the season, still it is
quite as safe, if one takes the necessary precautions
against fever. No one should eat much meat in
Italy and Egypt. I lived upon milk, bread and
fruit principally, and dressed in flannel; and as a
consequence, never experienced  much  inconvenience from any source-not from heat even.
At Rome I used an umbrella during the middle of




APPROACHING ROME.                241
the day, and in Egypt all of the day, but with that
to protect me from the effect of the direct rays of
the sun, I could get along tolerably well.
At Milan a young friend had cautioned me to
be careful at Rome, as persons were often murdered
there in broad daylight! I was not at all alarmed
by that remark, because I had previously received
similarly reports in regard to the morality of other
cities, and had discovered that they were unfounded.
As our train was sweeping on toward Rome, I apprehended  little  danger, therefore, from  these
sources, and after having formed the acquaintance
of a certain Frenchman, the professor of mathematics of the University of Brest, who could speak
a very little English, I began to have brighter hopes
in regard to my visit to Rome.




CHAPTER XVIII.
ROME.
The sun set soon after we had passed Orbetello, and the moon rose about the same time. We
had still two hours to Civita Vecchia and four hours
to Rome, but I shall never forget the happiness
and emotional excitement that prevailed among
our passengers, as we were approaching the city of
the Cesars and of the Popes, on that pleasant
moonlight evening.  The light of the full moon
cast a charm about every scene, and as we watched
the appearance of tropical species of plants and
trees under the subdued and enchanted light of the
moon and stars, we felt that we were about to enter
the celestial city under eminently fascinating circumstances. At 10:00 o'clock we were intently
looking from the windows, each for the first glimpse
of Rome. Will we reach the Tiber soon? As our
train leaped upon the bridge and my French companion first saw the glassy surface of the historic
stream, he, half distracted by solemnity of the occasion, exclaimed with a forced but feeble effort,
"THE TIBER, the Tiber!"  None was his own, and
the enraptured Professor, sinking from the effects
of an ecstatic swoon, grasped hold of me and with
labored enunciation spoke in a low voice, saying, " I feel in-ex-pres-si-ble e-mo-sions!".




ROME.                   243
At 10:20 we entered the shed of the great Railway Station. It was my good fortune to meet a
German porter who conducted me and my new
companion to an excellent hotel (Albergo Torino
E Trattoria duetto da Abrate-Via Principe Amedo
in prossimita alla Stazione) where we took rooms
together.
One sees a thousand strange and curious things
at Rome that my limited space will preclude me
from describing or mentioning, even. The gableend of the Stazione (Station) has in base relief a
representation of the traditional she-wolf nursing
the twin brothers, Romulus and  Remus, the
founders of Rome.
Emblems unique and obscure in design, may be
seen in almost every street. I saw in one place the
hands of a clock dial in the form of snakes.
I did more justice to my eyes than to my feet,
during my first day in Rome. The Column of
Marcus Aurelius, the Post-Office, Castello S. Angelo,
St. Peter, the Vatican, the Colosseum (Arfiteatro
Flavia, or Coliseo) and the fountains, arches and
ruins of ancient heathen temples that I passed on
my way, gave me a pretty good practical idea of
the Rome that I had read about in the books.
Only the approaching darkness and the dread of
walking alone through the suburbs of Rome under
cover of night, could induce me on the evening of
the first day to tear myself away from the crumbling heaps of stones which constitute the ruins of




244                 ROME.
ancient Rome, so charming and grand to behold.
It required about three days of close study before I could readily identify on my map of ancient
Rome, the temples of Vespasian, of Saturn, of Castor and Pollux, of Julius Casar, of Faustina, and
of Venus and Roma; the triumphal arches of Titus,
of Severus and of Constantine; the Meta Suvdate,
and the Column of Phocas, in the Roman Forumz;
also the Column of Trajan and other objects in the.
Forum  of Trajan, and numerous other ruins of
ancient Rome, including the aqueducts, baths, and
the little round Temple of Vesta (?) on the left bank
of the Tiber.
The Rome of to-day is about a mile and a half
square, and has a population of 245,000 inhabitants. Ancient Rome occupied much more territory, and its population was at the beginning of the
2nd century about 1  million. The ruins of ancient
Rome cover a desolate area of several square miles
in extent, besides what is covered by the modern
city. Its walls are 15 miles in circuit.
Whatever may be said of the 364 churches of
Rome, (including seven called Basilicae, namely:
St. Peter, St. John Lateran, Santa Maria Maggiore,
and Santa Croce in Gerusalemme, within the city,
and St. Paolo, San Lorenzo and San Sebastian, outside of the walls), all agree, that
THE COLOSSEUM
is the elephant among the ruins of the old city.
This stupendous structure is eliptical in form,




THE COLOSSEUM.                  245
measuring 615 feet through the longer diameter
and 510 feet through the shorter, covering more
than 5-2 acres of ground. In the height of its glory
87,000 spectators could be accommodated within
its walls! It is 156 feet high, but has no roof.
The sailors of the imperial fleet used to stretch
sail-cloth over it to exclude the burning rays of the
sun.  The arena is 279 feet by 174 feet. This
building was begun in A. D. 72, and dedicated by
Titus in A. D. 80. It was inaugurated by gladiatorial combats which lasted 100 days, during which
time 5,000 wild animals were killed. About one
third of the building is still preserved, and presents
a scene to the beholder of overawing magnificence
and grandeur.  When I walked into the Cathedral
of Milan, I felt as if its elevated ceiling was about
to lift me up, but, standing in the arena of this
vast amphitheater, one feels as if its stupendous
walls would crush him  to the ground.  Close by
the Colosseum  is the Meta Sudans, and the Arch
of Constantine which spans the Via Tr'iumphalis
and unites it with Via Sacra (the Sacred Way).
This arch has three passages and is adorned with
admirable sculptures.  It was erected in 311, when
Constantine declared himself in favor of Christianity. Following the Sacred way, toward the north,
we first come to the arch of Titus and afterwards to
THE ROMAN FORUM.
The Sacred Way, it seems, was about' of a mile
in length and extended from the Arch of Constan



246                 ROME.
tine or the northern end of the Colosseum near
by, to the Capitol. Near the Capitol stands the
Triumphal Arch of Septimius Severus, 75 feet high
and 82 feet wide, with three passages. It was erected
in honor of that emperor and his two sons Caracalla
and Geta in A. D. 203, to commemorate victories.
It was once surmounted by a brazen chariot with
six horses, on which stood Severus, crowned by
Victory. The pavement of the Forum, which has
been laid bare by recent diggings, lies some twenty
feet lower than the level of the street which now
passes at the side of the diggings.  Near the
northern end stands the Column of Phocas, 54 feet
high, which was erected in 608 in honor of the
tyrant Phocas, of the Eastern Empire. All around
the Forum stand what remains of the ancient temples, once dedicated to the deities which it was believed presided over the destinies of Rome, before
the advent of Christianity. The broken pillars of
ruined temples are seen on every side.
THE TA-BULARtIUL.
The only relics still extant of the ancient Capitol of Rome are the ruins of the Tabularium,
erected B. C. 78, by the consul Q. Lutatius Catulus
for the reception of the state archives. The modern
Capitol covers a part of it. The Tarpeian Rock,
from which the condemned used to be thrown by
the ancient Romans, is close by this edifice, if the
Rupe Tarpeia still pointed out is the veritable one.
Adjoining the Tabularium is the Schola Xantha,




TWELVE."                    247
"With the Colonnade of the Twelve Gods, whose images Vettius Agorius Pretextatus, the prefectus
urbi, and one of the principal chamlpions of expiring paganism, erected here in A. D. 367." The
Twelve Gods stand in base relief, on a beautiful vase
in the corridor of the Capitoline Museum, in the
following order:  Jupiter, Juno, Minerva, Hercules, Apollo, Diana, Mars, Venus, Vesta, Mercury,
Neptune and Vulcan. It is a remarkable coincidence (?), that there are: First, Twelve Lunations in
a year; Second, Twelve Months in a year; Third,
Twelve Constellations in the heavens;  Fourth,
Twelve Gods in the ancient mythology; Fifth,
Twelve Labors of Hercules; Sixth, see Law of the
Twelve tables (?), Encyclopedia Britannica on Burying; Seventh, Twelve Sons of Jacob; Eighth, Twelve
Tribes of Israel; Ninth, Twelve Apostles of Christ;
Tenth, Twelve Virtues and Twelve Vices represented
in base reliefs in Notre Dame, Paris; Eleventh,
Twelve Colossal statues facing the tomb of Napoleon
I.; and Twelfth, Twelve units in a dozen.
It is strange enough that there are a dozen dozen
of these curious dozens 
Did Pythagoras not also have twelve spheres to
make his sphere-music?
Between the Tabularium and the Forum, about
150 feet southeast from the former, and near the
Arch of Severus, are " the remains of
THE ROSTRA,
or orator's tribune, a name derived from  the iron




248                 ROME.
prows of the war-ships of Antiumr with which the
tribune was adorned after the capture of that town
in B. C. 338. At the end of it was the Umbilicus
urbis Romx, or ideal center of the city and empire,
the remains of which are recognizable. At the
other end, below the street, are a few traces of the
Miliareum Aureum, or central mile-stone of the
roads radiating from Rome, erected by Augustus
in B. C. 28. It is however doubtful whether these
names are correctly applied to these remains."
THE TEMIPLE OF CIESAR
is situated on the east side of the Forum, with its
front toward the Capitol. To this, " Caesar, in addition to other alterations made by him, transferred
the tribune of the orators. This was now named
the Rostra Julia, and from it, on the occasion of
the funeral of the murdered dictator on the 19th or
20th March, B. C. 44, Mark Antony pronounced
the celebrated oration which wrought so wonderfully on the passions of the excited populace. A
funeral pyre was hastily improvised, and the unparalleled honor accorded to the illustrious dead
of being burned in view of the most sacred shrines
of the city. A column with the inscription'parenti
patriae' was afterwards erected here to commemorate the event. -At a later period Augustus erected
this temple in honor of'Divus Julius,' his defied
uncle and adopted father, and dedicated it to him
in B. C. 29, after the battle of Actium. At the
same time he adorned  the rostra with  prows




RUINS.                  249
of the captured  Egyptian  vessels." - Btdcleer.
THE BATHS OF CARACALLA.
As an example of the magnificence of the ancient
Roman baths, we may take the Thermae of Caracalla
which could accommodate 1,600 bathers at a time!
This establishment, now the largest mass of ruins
in Rome, except the Colosseum, was 720 feet long
and 372 feet wide. A flight of 98 steps lead to the
roof which (the roof) has now tumbled down.
This structure covered over six acres of ground,
and had its porticoes, race course, &c., surrounded
by a wall. The total area of the grounds is nearly
27 acres!
The Baths of Diocletian, erected in the 4th century, were 6,000 feet in perimeter and its number
of daily bathers were 3,000.
THE PYRAMID OF CESTIUS.
"The Egyptian pyramidal form was not unfrequently employed by the Romans in the construction of their tombs."  That of Cestius, who died
within the last thirty years before Christ, is 116
feet high and 98 feet square at the base. It is constructed with bricks and covered with marble
blocks.
Upon the Cemetery of St. Lorenzo, "the great
modern burial-ground of Rome," I saw one or
several small monuments or head stones which
were in the form of pyramids.  Here, as in. Catholic burial-grounds generally in Europe, crosses take
the place of memorial stones, except some of the




250                 ROME.
latest interments are marked by marble slabs and
monuments.
THE CATACOMBS,
or underground burial-places of Rome, are not quite
as interesting as many suppose who have read large
chapters and heard long addresses upon the subject. The passages are almost innumerable, intersecting each other in every direction and ranging
in some places many stories above each other, but
still, as you pass along in the dim light of a little
taper, it appears much like a subterranean stonequarry containing pigeon-holes for the dead.
THE TEMPLE OF VESTA.
The little round temple referred to on page 244,
was once supposed to have been the temple of
Vesta, but it is now quite certain that this was a
mistake. It is 50 feet in diameter and each of its
20 Corinthian columns which constitute the circular colonnade around it, is 32 feet high.. Wherever
the Temple of Vesta may have stood, it is evident
that from its eternal fires was borrowed the custom,
still extant in Catholic churches, of keeping up
a perpetual flame by means of tapers. Six Vestal
Virgins sworn to perpetual virginity, used to watch
the sacred flame upon the altar in the Temple of
Vesta, and it is an impressive sight to see the same
sacred and eternal flamc still burning around the
High Altar in St. Peter's. From  what may still
be seen in Europe in general, and at Rome in particular, it is evident that all or nearly all of the




ST. PETER'S.                 251
emblems, forms and ceremonies of the early Catholic Church were borrowed from ancient mythology.
OBELISKS AND FOUNTAINS.
The many magnificent fountains of Rome are all
adorned with groups representing characters of
ancient mythology, as is the case with nearly all
the fountains of Europe and America, even unto
this day, and the half a dozen or more obelisks of
Rome are likewise monuments of the heathen
origin of modern civilization. These, it seems,
were first erected and dedicated to the sun, as we
may infer from  the fact that globes representing
the sun surmount them.  Since the introduction
of the Christian religion, a figure of St. Peter with
the cross is placed upon some of them.  Hence,
the development of religious ideas stands chronologically thus: First, Sun-worship and afterwards
the elevation of St. Peter, and of the Cross. Judging
from  what we see on ancient monuments and in
the churches, it is perhaps a fair question, whether
St. Peter, the Virgin and other saints were not at
one time quite as much the object of worship, as
Christ himself?
ST. PETER'S.
"St. Peter's stands on the site of the circus of
Nero, where many Christians were martyred and
where St. Peter is said to have been buried after
his crucifixion."  An oratory (chapel?) stood here
as early as A. D. 90. In 309 a basilica, half the
size of what St. Peter's now is, was begun by Con



252                 ROME.
stantine.  It was the grandest church of that time.
" The crypt is now the only remnant of this early
basilica."  The building of the present edifice was
commenced in 1506 by Julius II,  Michael Angelo
worked 17 years at it (to 1564). It was completed
and "consecrated by Pope Urban VIII., on 18th
November, 1626, on the 1300th anniversary of the
day on which St. Silvester is said to have consecrated the original edifice."
This church contains 29 altars, besides the high
altar.  " Its area is 212,321 sq. ft., while that of the
cathedral of Milan is 117,678, St. Paul's at London
108,982, St. Sophia at Constantinople 96,497, and
the Cathedral of Cologne 73,903 sq. ft."  The nave
is 87 feet wide and 150 feet high, and the dome is
138 feet in diameter (5 feet less than that of the
Pantheon) and some 450 feet high.  One might fill
a volume in describing its rich marble paveihent,
its 148 massive columns, its gilded chapels and
ceiling, its fine sculpture, and the thousand and
one objects in and about it that render it the most
imposing as well as the largest church in the world.
Imagine yourself in the middle of a church occupying over five acres, whose High Altar stands under a brass canopy 95 feet high, and weighing 93
tons, and whose ConJfssio is surrounded by 89 burning lamps! The total cost of the edifice is about
$85,000,000.  [It should always be remembered
that labor has been twice to three times as cheap
in Europe as it is now in this country].  "The ex



SANTA MARIA MAGGIORE.              253
pense of erecting this church was so heavy that
Julius II. and Leo X. resorted to the sale of indulgences to raise the money, and this lead to the Reformation."
THE LATERAN
is the church of the Pope as bishop of Rome, and
here his coronation takes place.  "It takes the
precedence even of St. Peter, in ecclesiastical rank,
being, as the inscription on its facade sets forth,'Ominum   Urbis Et   Ebis Ecclesiarum  Mater Et
Caput. "
If St. Peter's had not the advantage of a piazza
that is unrivaled in magnificence, I think the lofty
facade of the Lateran would present a view of more
imposing grandeur, even, than that stately structure. The interior of this church is very beautiful.
It must not be supposed that St. Peter's has no
rivals in beauty. Even in Rome it does not seem
to stand alone. Of the 363 other churches in the
great city of churches, there are numbers that
vie with'it in the beauty and perfection of some
particular portions.
SANTA MARIA MAGGIORE.
"The Virgin appeared simultaneously to the
devout Roman patrician Johannes and to Pope
Liberius in their dreams, commanding them  to
erect a church to her on the spot where they should
find a deposit of snow on the following morning
(August 5th)."  The Basilica Liberiana which was
erected in obedience of this vision, was succeeded




254                 ROME.
by a church named S. Maria Mater Dei (A. D. 432)
and later by the present edifice. Almost every
church in Rome has its legend. I have seen no
other church that seemed so rich in gold, precious
alabaster and many other kinds of beautiful and
costly stones.  Its panelled roof is gilt with the
first gold brought to Spain from South America,
and presented to the Pope by Ferdinand and Isabella.
Near S. Maria Maggiore is the church of
S. ANTONIO ABBATE,
to which are brought the horses, mules, cows, &c.,
during the week following the feast of the saint
(January 17-23). On the 23rd, the Pope and many
persons of the higher classes send their horses here
to be blessed and sprinkled with holy water.
THE SCALA SANTA
referred to on page 189 of this book, are in a church
near the Lateran. They were, brought to Rome by
the Empress Helena and may only be ascended on
the knees. They are partly covered with boards
to save the stones from being worn away by the
thousands that ascend it. Two adjoining stairways
are for the descent.
S. PIETRO IN VINCOLI
was founded about 442, as the receptacle for the
chains of St. Peter, which had been presented by
Eudoxia, wife of Valentinian III., to Pope Leo I.
This church contains the famous statue of Moses
with horns, by Michael Angelo. Mediaeval Chris



THE VATICAN.                  255
tian artists generally represented Moses with horns,
owing  to an  erroneous translation'of Exodus
XXXIV., 35. Michael Angelo represented these
horns upon the head of Moses as having been about
three inches in length.
S. MARIA IN ARACGELI
probably occupies the site of the Temple of Jupiter.
Its present altar encloses an. ancient altar which is
said to have been erected by Augustus. " According to a legend of the 12th century, this was the
spot where the Sibyl Tibur appeared to the emperor, whom  the senate proposed to elevate to the
rank of a god, and revealed to him a vision of the
Virgin and her Son."
This church is approached by a very high flight
of steps rising from the foot of those leading to the
piazza of the modern Capitol, and "the interior is
vast, solemn, and highly picturesque.  It was here,
as Gibbon tells us, that on the 15th of October,
1764, as he sat musing amidst the ruins of the
Capitol, while the barefooted friars were singing
vespers, the idea of writing the'Decline and Fall'
of the city first started to his mind."
THE VATICAN
has been the- residence of the Popes since their return from  Avignon. in France, where they had resided from  1309 to 1377. It is now the most extensive palace in the world, being three stories high
and 1,151 feet long by 767 feet wide, covering over
20 acres! The palace comprises 20 courts, eight




256                 ROME.
grand staircases and two hundred smaller ones,
and is said to contain 11,000 halls, chapels, saloons
and private apartments.  Since the Italian occupation, Pope Pius IX. considers himself a prisoner
in his own palace, though strange to say, there are
no doors locked except those which he locks himself on the inside! King Victor Emanuel, though.
excommunicated by the Pope in the most indecent
language that ever fell from human lips, has done
no violence to the person of the Pope, and now
contents himself as an outsider of the church.
The masses can now no longer " go to Rome to
see the Pope," for he neither ventures forth from
his palace into the city for exercise and pleasure,
as he used to, neither does he hold any public receptions. My French companion who had come
to Rome for the purpose of making a present of
several hundred dollars to the Pope, insisted on
my accompanying him, as he was allowed a private
interview, but I could not avail myself of the opportunity.
The galleries and museums of the palace are the
richest in the world, in Roman and Christian antiquities. Here are the paintings which have rendered Raphael and Angelo immortal to fame.
They are almost innumerable.  These masters
translated the Bible into pictures, and here are the
originals of many of the cuts that adorn our finely
illustrated family Bibles. Michael Angelo painted
22 months (1508-11) at the ceiling of the Sixtine




MUSEUMS.                  257
Chapel. In the Loggie, Raphael represents God
in the person of an old man wearing a long gray
beard and attired in the oriental costume.
MUSEUMS.
The principal museums in  Rome are the
Christian and the Gregorianum Lateranense in the
Lateran; the Etruscan, the Egyptian and the
Museum of Christian Antiquities in the Vatican;
and the Capitoline Museum, on Capitoline Hill.
The vast stores of ancient art contained in these,
brings the beholder back again to the strange scenes
of the distant past, as do perhaps no other museums
in the world. To do justice to these collections
would require many weeks, and a mere catalogue
of their contents would cover many pages. Among
the most interesting apartments of the Capitoline
Museum, are the Room of the Dying Gladiator,
the Room  of the Philosophers, the Room  of the
Busts of the Emperors, the Room  of Venus, &c.
Baedeker guides the tourist through Rome by
means of 312 pages of description in fine print.
It may be proper to observe here, that Murray
leads the visitor in the same way through London
by means of a guide-book of 316 pages, and
Galignani has 438 pages on Paris, exclusive of the
tables of contents.
In  regard to the brilliant and magnificent
churches of Italy, which, for beauty, throw those
of the rest of the world into the shade, I will here
add that their overawing grandeur assisted mate



258                 ROME.
rially in making man a humble and submissive
being; and possibly taught him to take the first
steps from ancient barbarity toward civilization
and refinement.
Several square miles of ancient Rome lying in
ruins, is now unoccupied, and many of the roads
which intersect this desolate area are lined on both
sides by walls from 7 to 10 or 12 feet in height.
They are plastered white and overgrown by the
ivy; and as one walks along in these, he may well
occupy his time in watching a species of little reptiles that are very nimble but shy, running up the
high smooth walls as easily as along the ground.
They are harmless, no doubt, but I dreaded them
quite as much as if I had been in a similar danger
of treading upon snakes! They dart like arrows
across the streets, and in their reckless haste of attempting to cross the street to avoid me, they frequently came near losing their lives under my
feet! They are about 3 to 6 inches long, we will
say; have four legs as near as I could count, and
are very slim, resembling the snake in form and
the frog in features. Good-by, Old Rome!
I spent 8 days in London, 17 in Paris and 6 in
Rome; doing to one city about as much justice as
to the other, in those various periods of time; but
if one would come to Rome first, he would not be
able to tear himself away in less than a few weeks.
No one should travel any other way than against
the courseof civilization, on his first visit to Europe.




ROME.                   259
In my course from Liverpool to Rome I enjoyed
new sights in a constant flow, like that of a steady
rain. I do not believe that it would be well for an
American to be abruptly transported to Rorne and
awake one morning there. The strange sights
would assail him suddenly, like a flood of angry
waters 




CHAPTER XIX.
ROME TO BRINDISI.
From  Rome I went to Pompeii, stopping long,enough at Naples, however, to learn that the impudence of the pestiferous porters is quite unendurable. Italy throughout is much infested with
porters, but in the southern section of the peninsula
they are a regular pest, which at times becomes
epidemic.  During the traveling season it seems
as if everybody was a porter. Sometimes they
will surround the traveler and assail him on every
~side, asking him  to let them  carry his baggage.
Sometimes I found then to be of great service in
finding hotels for me, but at other times I was
much inconvenienced by their attacks.  I think it
was at Naples, where a dozen or more of them
yelled at me all at the same time, each desirous of
carrying my satchel. As none of them could speak
in a language that I understood, I declined to let
any one have it. Each one evinced his earnestness
by taking hold of my baggage while asking for it.
After taking turns at their chances in this way for
-a while, at the same time crowding the path in
front of me so that I could not proceed, one of them
in his greediness almost tore my satchel out of my
hands, I responded to his supplication with such
a tremendous no, that the next fellow assumed a




POVERTY IN SOUTHERN ITALY.  261
stooping posture and asked me in a whisper!
These people deserve our pity rather than censure.
Many of them are evidently sometimes in a famishing condition.'But few who have not seen, can
form an idea of the poverty which reigns in some
sections of Southern  Italy, especially between
Naples and Brindisi.  I saw  children running
about in this section, that had little of clothing
save a shirt, which was generally torn in every
part; some few, below the age of about six or eight
years, had not even a thread of clothing upon their
bodies.  An elderly man that was plowing with
a pair of oxen, as is the custom  in Italy, was accompanied by his wife who was well dressed, but
he wore only a shirt that reached to his knees, and
a hat.  I spent a Sunday at Brindisi, and observed
that people keep no Sunday there.  All the people
wear old and tattered garments, and I could not
see a hat, a coat or a pair of pantaloons on the
person of one of the hundreds that thronged the
market-place all Sunday, that looked as if it had
been new at any time within the last few years!
The railroad tunnels are even more numerous
than in the Black Forest.  In some places it becomes impossible to read in the cars, as the train
is much of the tiine under the mountains. From
the window of the cars I saw a man with his bare
feet in a tub treading grapes, for the purpose of
making  wine.  It reminded me of the -way,
as it is said, some made their sourerout in this




262       POMPEII AND VESUVIUS.
country  some  forty-five  or  fifty  years  ago.
I spent a day among the ruins of Pompeii and
in the ascent of Mount Vesuvius. Pompeii was a
town of about 30,000 inhabitants when it was de-:stroyedi by an eruption of old Vesuvius in A. D. 79.
On the 24th of August a dense shower of ashes
covered the town 3 feet in thickness, but allowed
the inhabitants tinme to escape.  Only of those
which returned to recover valuables, &c., were
overtaken and covered by the shower of red hot
rapilli, or fragments of pumice-stone, which, with
succeeding showers of ashes, covered the town to
the depth of 7-8 feet. " The present superincumbent mass is about 20 feet in thickness."  In the
one third of the town already excavated the skeletons of some 500 have been found. Casts of bodies
found in 1863, were made by pouring plaster of
Paris into the cavities where they had lain, and
the figures of the deceased in their death-struggle
are thus obtained.  Bedeker devotes 25 pages to a
description of the wonders and curiosities of this
exhumed town.
The ascent of Vesuvius required about six hours.
We started at 6:30 in the morning and returned at
12:30 p. m. The distance from  Pompeii, which
stands at its foot, to the top of it is about 5 miles
in a straight line, and eight miles by the paths.
Mules can ascend half-way; but I took a guide
land walked the whole distance. At the point
where the mules must be abandoned, a number of




VESUVIUS.                  263
guides offered to carry me up, or to drag me up by
means of a rope! But I climbed it. A  cloud
hangs over it all the time, which is occasioned by
the column of steam  that issues from  its crater.
The entire upper part of the peak is perfectly bare
of vegetation, and covered with fine cinders, rapilli,
&e., through which escapes a gas that almost suffocates the ascending traveler.  At the top we
shouted into the crater and heard distinct echos
after two seconds, which proves that the mouth of
the crater reflected the sound at the depth of about
1,000 or 1,100 feet!
From Pompeii I returned to Naples and spent
the night there. Early on Thursday morning I
went to the " Stazione" (Station) and left for Brindisi. The temperature was 90 degrees in the shade,
in the afternoon. Some people have constructed
artificial caves which they use as stables, for their
cattle; and possibly some have such rude grottos
for their homes!




CHAPTER XX.
ON THE MEDITERRANEAN.
On Monday morning, September 26th, at 4:00
o'clock a. m., I stepped on board the steamship
"Avoca" to take passage for Alexandria. Brindisi,
like Havre, is one of the finest places in the world
to leave! Almost everything about it is repulsive.
I saw many children there that have possibly never
seen a washing day in their lives! I sailed for
Egypt with great reluctance, for I had already my
misgivings about the property of tourists from
civilized nations going thither for sight-seeing.
Well one does see sights there-but, such sights!
Our voyage to Egypt was a very prosperous and,
I may say, a pleasant one. Time, some eighty
hours. As first and second class passage is unreasonably high, boarding costing $9-$10 per day,
I took third class passage, and with a special outlay of a few dollars obtained acceptable meals.
The steamer belonged to an English line, and it
was one of the most pleasant incidents of my entire
tour, to hear a company of sailors chime in one
evening and sing "Kiss Me Mother, Kiss Your
Darling."  I had heard little English speaking for
months, and now tolhear that old familiar tune,
five thousand miles away from home, made me
feel as if America could after all not be so very far




ALEXANDRIA.                 265
off! There were no storms, nor was their any cool
night air upon that " summer seat."  I slept one
night on deck, without even an awning of canvass
over me,-how pleasant it was at night to awake
and see the winter constellation of Orion as high
up already in September, as I was wont to see it in
America in the month of January! We reached
ALEXANDRIA
on the fourth day after leaving the coasts of Italy.
Perhaps I can not give the reader a better idea of
what a blank Egypt seems to one who has luxuriated for months amid the scenes of Europe, than
by leaving my chapter on Egypt a blank one. A
great deal too much has been written about Egypt
and the East, already.. What profitable example
can we take from those semi-barbarians? A young
man who was just returning from a tour through
Egypt and Greece, had told'me already at Rome,
that "going to see the East is done mostly for the
name of having done the thing."  He had been
disappointed, and so was I. Why do tourists speak
so much about the pyramids, after returning from
Egypt.?  Because there is little else to be seen there
or to talk about! And these are not half the
wonders that many imagine who falsely presume
that the building of the entire structures were undertaken at once. The broad foundation of 13
acres, which constitutes the base of the greatest,
was not undertaken at one time; but only a small
pyramid was at first reared, and around this, as a




266       THE PYRAMIDS.
nucleus, was built layer after layer, until the structure assumed the amazing proportions which now
characterize the astounding magnificence of the
great pyramids on the plains of Geezeh. Thus at
whatever time the sovereign might die, his pyramid
would be almost complete, and would be large or
small, in proportion'to the time spent upon it.
Perhaps succeeding generations built at some of
the larger pyramids. They are monuments erected
to the memory of kings or ruling families, and contain their tombs. Such, at least, is a plausible
solution of the problem of pyramid-building.
CAIRO.
At Cairo I engaged a guide whom I paid three
dollars for accompanying me as many hours, and
bargained with him that he must furnish the mules,
(or donkeys I should have said), and pay all the
contingent expenses. We visited the Mosk of Mohamet Ali in the Citadel, the Mosk of Hassen and
others. Attendants at the doors provided us with
slippers, for no one is allowed to tread the fine
carpet (or matting?) of these holy temples with
his shoes. Hats must be kept on, however. A
large mosque generally consists of porticoes surrounded a square open court, containing a fountain
or tank in the center. Here every Mussulman
washes his hands and feet before he goes to prayers.
They sometimes would here bathe their whole
bodies in former times! It is not at all surprising
that washing of feet should have become a part of




EGYPT                    267
the religious ceremonies in countries like Egypt,
where washing is quite as necessary to existence,
as eating and drinking, even. I wish they had
pure water enough to wash themselves a dozen
times a day. They would certainly be, what we
consider very dirty, more than half the time, even
then. As it is, they must take their untanned
goat-skin bags and collect the luke-warm  water
which they find in dirty pools, and take it home
for drinking purposes! It is impossible for the
poor Egyptians to keep themselves clean. It rains
only about three days in a year, and the wind takes
so much dust into the air that one can often neither
see or breath for a few seconds. This dust collected
in such a thick layer upon my body, the first day,
that I could in the evening plow furrows with my
fingers upon any portion of my skin.  I protected.
my eyes, by hiding my face in my shawl, during
the most dangerous busts; but being ignorant of
the necessity of putting cotton into my ears, I lost
the hearing of one of them, which I only recovered
quite lately. Hundreds of people in Cairo are blind,
and certainly the majority of them have but poor
sight or have very sore eyes! What wretched
houses they live in! Many of the huts in their
villages consist of but a single apartment, large
enough for a person to lie down lengthwise in it,
but not more than 5 feet wide. The walls and
roof are all mud, and so low that a man cannot
stand erect in some of them!  These mud-huts




268    THE POOR AND WRETCHED.
have no doors even!  The men as well as the
women wear long flowing garments, like those represented in our picture Bibles. Many of the poor
women have but a single garment to cover their
bodies with. This consists of a hood-like covering
for the head, and a loose flowing robe, all in one
piece; having neither shoes nor the other garments to make themselves presentable in any. decent
or refined society. Many present pictures of indescribable wretchedness. I saw a woman nurse
her child in the cars, who, when presented with an
apple for her babe, returned her thanks without a
smile, even, to the giver! These people are in too
great misery to know what it is to feel happy! I
saw men and women speak by the hour in the
train without once turning into any pleasant mood.
How my pity might have turned into joy, could I
only have seen them indulge in a hearty laugh occasionally! Some of their girls and women of all
ages will still ride the donkey, after the oriental
style. The middle and poorer classes of Egyptians
will eat little snails and fish fried with the heads,
scales and all the appurtenances of their internal
structures! In the East they churn the butter in
bags made of untanned goat-skins, having the hair
inside. Moreover, they bring the butter upon the
table without doing so much as to comb it, even 
When I had seen these things, and was informed
that on account of the cholera which was still raging in Syria, the surrounding nations had inter



EGYPT.                   269
posed a quarantine, so that if I would venture to
go on to Joppa (which I could have reached in a
few hours), I would -become a prisoner, I soon
decided that I would rather not see a people (the
Syrians) that is more miserable than the Egyptians,
even, than be in danger of being obliged to partake
of food that could scarcely have failed to make me
sick.  Crossing the desert by rail, meeting large
caravans of camels, and seeing the palm-trees, the
minarets, the mosks, the pyramids, the muddy
waters of the Nile, and above all the curious styles
of the oriental costume, are interesting enough to
one that comes to Egypt with ordinary expectations and correct information in regard to the
country; but I did not expect to find the Egyptians
a black inferior race, that would fight with each
other on the pavements in the largest cities in
broad day-light, violently tear my property out of
my hands in sight of the finest square in Alexandria, carry naked children upon their shoulders in
their large towns, and seat themselves around large
dishes of rice and gravy mixing the same with their
fingers and conveying it to their, mouths in the
palnms of their hands! Numbers of them will dine
without the use of either knives, forks or spoons,
and when dinner is over, there.is but one dish to
be washed. Each has two hands and ten fingers
to clean, and washing those, ends the whole matter!
These are extreme cases, of course.  Some live
decently, too. Some few of the ruling classes, in




270                 EGYPT.
luxury, perhaps.  From Cairo I traveled by rail to
Ismalia, thence by the Suez Canal to Port Said.,
where I spent the Sunday (October 3rd).  On
Tuesday I reached Alexandria again.  I there put
lup at a first-class hotel (for travelers from civilized
and refined nations can not enjoy themselves at
inferior hotels in Egypt), and stayed five days, until the next steamer sailed for Brindisi. The hotel
contained an excellent cafe, where ten intelligent
and refined ladies and four gentlemen, all natives
of Austria, were engaged to render music every
evening for a whole year.  One evening as I sat in
the cafe at my supper, a poor boy came in to sell
flowers; for what we must pay in this country for
a drink, I bought a bouquet almost as large as a
bucket, and when the next lady came to collect for
the music, I gave her the bouquet as a present to
the whole company.  It was worth more than an
introduction to the entire party, and for the balance
of my stay I was always well entertained, and was
kindly informed of anytning that I asked in regard
to the manners and customs of oriental life. The
people of every nation under the sun, travel in
Egypt in the habits of their own peculiar national
costumes-the Turk with his turban, the Greek
with his red cap, and the Arabians, East Indians,
Russians, and all the nations of Western Europe
are represented here, all wearing their own peculiar
styles and fashions.  The money too is a mixture
of the coins of a dozen different countries. None




EGYPT.                  271
except the poorest women will come out of their
houses without having their faces covered with
thick black veils.
ON THE " HOME-STRETCH."
I do not know where I was the happiest, when
I reached the coasts of Italy  and  saw  dear
Europe again, when I reached Paris, or when I
landed at New York and was finally again ushered
into the sweet scenes of home! But I remember
well that I left no city with so much regret as
Paris. How I watched to see the last glimmering
rays of its ten thousand gas-jets, as our train moved
away at the silent midnight hour of October 22nd.
I had stopped at Milan to see the grand peagent
of Emperor William  of Germany, and King Victor
Emanuel of Italy, with a retinue of some 22,000
militia, with which they held a military drill, and
saw the illumination of the Cathedral on that
memorable occasion; besides I had stopped a day at
Rome, and two at Paris; yet I made my return
trip from  Alexandria to New York in 25 days,
sleeping but 7 nights in comfortable beds in all
that time. Sleeping in the cars and on the ships,
never amounted to much. I made this haste on
account of the now rapidly approaching winter.
CONCLUSION.
Notwithstanding the influence which the church
and the political powers of Rome, in earlier times,
and which Paris and the spirit of progress in later
years, have exerted to the contrary, the manners,.




27 2             CONCLUSION.
customs and institutions of the people are still so
different that the people of the Western Continent
can not form  correct ideas of European life without having first visited portions of it. For want of
a standard of comparison, the reader is often utterly
deceived by fine poetical descriptions, because he
can not properly construe the language.
A tour of ordinary length and duration can now
be made through the western nations of Europe,
with less expense than is generally believed, as
may be inferred from the fact that my entire tour
of nearly fourteen thousand miles, cost less than
seven hundred dollars. Many travelers lose forty
per cent. of their money by imposition, and others
are more careless and extravagant than they ought.
If I could not have spoken German, it would have
cost me several hundred dollars more.  Could I
have spoken French, it might have cost me a hundred dollars less. The expenses of making the
tour of England, France and Switzerland are from
$300 to $1,000, according to the style in which one
wishes to travel; but a young man who wishes to
spent $1,000 in educating himself, will make the
best investment by spending half of it in traveling
in foreign lands.  He will there lay such a sure
foundation for a correct knowledge of the institutions of the world, as no amount of reading can
ever afford him.  Let the enterprising "go west,"
but the student should see eastern countries.
THE -END.