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MEN AND THINGS
AS
I SAW THEM IN EUROPE.
BY KIRWAN.
NEW  YORK:
HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS,
329 & 331 PEARL STREET,
FRANKLIN SQUARE.
1854.




Entered, aoco(rding to Act of Congress, in the year one thousand
eight hundred and fifty-three, by
HARPER & BROTHERS,
in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Southern District
of New York.




TO
HIS OWN PEOPLE,
ENDEARED TO -IIM BY A MINISTRY OF TWENTY YEARS,
TIIIS MEMORIAL OF HIS FOREIGN TRAVEL
BY THIEIR PASTOR.








PREFACE.
WHAT, another book of sketches of men and things
in Europe! Yes, verily, another book!.But how camne
you to write it? I will tell you. First, because many
of my friends seemed determined that I should write it.
Secondly, because I had collected matter enough for a
volume during my rambles. Thirdly, I have as good
a right to maintain the truth of the proverb, that " of
making books there is no end," as any body else.
Fourthly, because I saw things with my own eyes,
and desired to tell about them in my own way. Fifthly, because I believe I have friends and readers enough
to exhaust at least one edition, who are desirous to
know who and what I saw, and what. I think about
them; and I have a wish to gratify them. And,
lastly, because I thought I could make some revelations
as to religion, morals, and men, that may be of some
use to my generation. If these reasons are not satisfactory, the reader has my hearty consent to lay down
this volume unread. The loss may be as much his as
mine.
I describe things as I saw them; and if my pictures
are not true, it is because I am no painter. I speak of
men and things according to my own impressions; who
would desire me to speak according to theirs? Let
all such write their own books. Though I may be
judged as having spoken with undue severity as to




Vi                  PREFACE.
some things in the following pages, I hope I have spoken as a Christian; and as an American citizen, who
feels that my adoptel, beloved country has nothing to
learn but evil from the religion, the habits, the morals,
the politics, and especially the priests of the Continent
of Europe. There are some things which require a
whip of scorpions, and they should have it.
I say btit little about Ireland, as I indulge the hope
of giving a little volume to the public on Ireland and
the Irish, for the benefit of its swarming emigrants to
this land. But whether I can arrange my materials,
and when, are very uncertain-perhaps soon, perhaps
never.
I often allude in these pages to my traveling companion. He was Dr. George R. Chetwood, my townsman and friend; eminent for his professional skill and
sterling virtues; and who will testify that I have taken
no traveler's license with the men, scenes, things, and
circumstances which I describe.
I send this volume forth after its predecessor with
the prayer to God that all the good seed it contains
may be widely scattered and permanently fruitful.
KIRWAN.
New York, August, 1853.




CONTENTS,
CHAPTER I.
The Voyage opens. —Our Passengers.-A Voyage a Voyage.-A Picture. —Death on Board.-Burial at Sea.-An Ocean Grave undesirable............................................... Page 9
CHAPTER II.
First Sight of Land. -Voyage Ended. — Liverpool. -Dr. Raffles. —
Souls from Purgatory.-Sabbath in Liverpool.-First Sermon in
Britain.-Dr. Hugh M'Neil. —Chat with a Lady............. 16
CHAPTER III.
Ride from Liverpool to London.-Chat in the Cars.-Lonidon.-Samuel Gurney.-Reform in Iieland. —Rev. Mr. Jowett.-John Henderson. -Dr. Achilli.-Caution as to Priests................. 21
CHAPTER IV.
Exeter Hall.-Meeting of the British and Foreign Bible Society.Lord Ashley.-Marquis of Cholmondeley.-Earl of Harrowby.Sir Robert H. Ingles. —D. Duff. —Salt among the Aristocracy. 27
CHAPTER V
St. Paul's. - The Tower. — The Thames. - Westminster Abbey.Stone of Destiny. —Regent's Square Church.-Dr. Hamilton.-St.
James's.-Westminster.-Bishop Wilberforce............... 33
CHAPTER VI.
Mr. Lawrence. -Parliament House.-House of Lords.-Lord Charncellor. - Duke of Argyle. - Wee Willie Skinner. -- Lord Grey. -
Bishop Wilberforce.-Tout ensemble.-Law Lords.-Sir Culling
Eardley.-Badinage....................................... 38
CHAPTER VII.
London to Dover.-Dover.-A Voyage to Calais.-Official Imposition.-Landing in France.-A true Picture.-Ride from Calais to
Paris.-The Country.-Wind-mills.-People.-A Dissertation on
Vanes................................................... 43




11                    CONTENTS.
CHAPTER VIII.
Paris.-Garden of the Tuileries: its Beauty. —Night Walk.-Palais
Royal: its Gardens.-Arbre de Cracovie.-Jardin des Plantes.Pere la Chaise: its Epitaphs........................... Page 48
CHAPTER IX.
N6tre Dame.-The Power of the Keys.-A Shaving Shop in a Cathedral.-H6tel Dieu.-A Nun in a Circle.-Vincennes.-A Mistake.
-Blame divided.-The Donjon.-Salle de la Question.-Justice
will come......................................   53
CHAPTER X.
Versailles. - The Palace. - Picture Gallery.- Chapel. - Theatre. -
Banqueting Room.-Room of Louis XIV.-Room of Death. —Room
where was signed the Revocation of the Edict of Nantz.-The Balcony. - The Gardens. - Whence the Revenues. - Causes of the
Revolution.-Bourbon Dynasty.-Moral Lessons of Versailles. 58
CHAPTER XI.
Bastile.-Lettres de Cachet.-Man of Iron Mask.-Column of July.Emeute of 1848, — Place de la Concord. -Obelisk of Luxor.Guillotine.-January 21st and October 16th, 1793.-National Assembly Hall.-Confusion.-Republicanism dishonored........64
CHPTER XII.
Sabbath in Paris.-Madeleine.-Toupet. -The Interior.-Le Suisse.
— Appearance and Duties. —A Funeral.-A young Couple at Mass.
-Sights Seen.-High Mass.-Bad Influence of Popery on Paris. 70
CHAPTER XIII.
A pleasant Meeting in the Madeleine.-Wesleyan Chapel.-The Service. —" Clothes."-Minister for Paris.-Prayer-meeting.-Sabbath
Evening Walk. —Sights seen.-Reasons for French Character.The Riddle solved.-A Look at St. Germain.-A Prayer...... 75
CHAPTER XIV.
Exit from Paris.-A Diligence.-Beaune.-Chalons.-Abelard and
Heloise.-Face of the Country.-French Villages.-The Peasantry.-The Saone.-Ladies' Dress.- Old Habits retained.-American Peculiarity.-A Digression......................-. —....... 82
CHAPTER XV.
The Saone.-Lyons: its Appearance-its History.-Peter de Vaud.
-Revolutionary Scenes.-Precy.-Couthon.-Collot d'Herbois.



CONTENTS.                          i1
Horrid Murders by Jacobins.-Festoons of Human Limbs.-Anec.
dote of Dr. Nesbit.-Fouche. —Death an eternal Sleep.-The Mob,
the most fearful of all Governments.................... Page 88
CHAPTER XVI.
Lyons.-Down the Rhine: its Scenery. —Nuns: their Appearance.An Inference.-A Contrast. —A startling Incident.-5-Avignon.Split in the Popedom: its Causes.-The Popes of Avignon: their
Palace.-The butcher Jourdan.-The Cathedral.-The Tarpaean
Rock.-The Inquisition.-The Museum.-Old Mortality.-A Conversation with Mine Host.-Petrarch and Laura            94
CHAPTER XVII.
Avignon to Marseilles.-Mixed People.-The City.-The Sea.-Polite Captain.-Marseillaise Hymn: its History.-Dietrick's Fate.De Lisle.-Pensioned by Louis Philippe.-The Hymn itself-. 100
CHAPTER XVIII.
Sail to Leghorn.-A Day in its Bay.-Robbing by Passports. —Leghorn from the Sea.-Corsica.-Napoleon.-A great Man a great
Need.-Civita Vecchia: its Fortress. -Placard on Notre Dame.Civita Vecchia from the Sea.-Ostia.-Bay of Naples.-Landing
in  Italy.................................................  107
CHAPTER XIX.
Naples.- Carthusian Monks.- The entire View. —Vesuvius.-Herculaneum.-Pompeii.- Cemetery.-The Morals of the People.Naples thoroughly Popish.-Its Beggars.-Its Priests.-Its Ignorance.-Its Superstitions.-Its Wickedness.-Its awful Despotism.
-Ferdinand the " Model King."-The blessings of Popery.. 113
CHAPTER XX.
The Effect of a Feast-day.-San Carlos.-Mixture.-Capua.-Gaeta:
its Sights.-The Three Taverns.-First Sight of Rome.-Italy, from
Naples to Rome.-The Face of the Country.-The People.-Woman degraded.-Emblems of Superstition every where.-Mass in a
Village. -Light at Gaeta. - Contrast.-Glorious Associations.Door of Hope............................................ 121
CHAPTER XXI.
Dreams realized.-Rome from the Tower of the Capitoline.-The
Tiber.-The Seven Hills. —The Magnificent vanishes.-The Ruins.
-Bathos.-The Corso: its Appearance.-Afternoon Walk.-Rome
in June.-A Cause for Thankfulness....................... 127




Wy                    CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXII.
Object stated.-Saint Peter's.-From Top to Bottom.-Chat in the
Basement. —Its Grandeur and Amplitude.-Statue of St. Peter.Its Worship disgusting.-Mass there.-A disappointed Confessor.
-The Scene of the Rod.-The Sublime and Ridiculous. —The
Confessional, or Tomb of St. Peter.-Poor Ives's Emblems of Office. —The Wafer taken.-A Farce.................... Page 133
CHAPTER XXIII.
Sistine. — Fresco of the Judgment. -Entrance of Cardinals. —Ens
trance of the Pope.-Salutation of the Pope.-His Appearance..Anecdote of Dr. Miller.-Questions.-Cardinals.-Antonelli.-How
to modify our Opinions and Ideas.-How absurd appear the Claims
of Popery in the Sistine.................................. 139
CHAPTER XXIV.
Prodigies of Roman History.-Rome yet a City of Prodigies.-Juggle
of St. Januarius. - Holy House of Loretto. - Bambino. - Scala
Sancta.-Maria Maggiore.-Statue of Mary at St. Agostine.-Holy
Chain in St. Peter's, in Vinculo.-Well in St. Maria, in Via Lata.Prayer in the Church of St. Gregory.-Popery a prodigious Falsehood................................................... 145
CHAPTER XXV.
Rome to be studied.-Its numerous Churches. -Their Riches of Art
and Endowment.-:-Numerous Priests and Nuns.-Poverty of the
People.-Abounding Beggars.-Way to shake them off.-Absence
of Youth.-The People in Fear.-Despotism, through the Confessional.-Its Morals.-No Religion there.-The Voice of Rome to
the Nations.-Its History not yet ended.................... 152
CHAPTER XXVI.
Leaving Rome.-A Procession of the Host.-The Aurelian Way.Civita Vecchia. —Genoa from the Sea.-The City.-Columbus.Political History.-Duomo.-Head of John the Baptist.-Sacro Catino.-Santa Maria.-An Evening Ramble.-Scenes in the Streets.
-Female Dress.-Tastes differ......................... 159
CHAPTER XXVII.
Departure from Genoa.-A Procession.-The Goddess of the City.Primitive Work.-Ascent of the Apennines.-Descent.-Degraded
Woman.- Novi. —Great Valley, and fertile.-Alessandria.- Ma.
rengo: its Battle.-Dessaix.-Austria.-Haynau an Incarnation of
Austria.-Enter Turin.-An Incident...................... 165




CONTENTS. -
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Turin.-Beautiful for Situation.-No Antiquities.-Growing rapidly.
-Charles Albert deceived.-His Death. -Room in the Palace.Spirit of the present King.-Opposed by the Priests.-Legislature
of Turin.-Senate-and' House.-Our Charge at Turin.-Santo Sudario.-Worship with the Waldenses: their Chapel.-A Royal People: their Doctrines and Order.-Turin a strong Point from which
to act on Italy...................................... Page 171
CHAPTER XXIX.
Departure from Turin.-Ascent of the Alps.-Changes in Vegetation.
-A Stream from the Clouds. —Going down the Alps.-Our Fellow-travelers: their Testimony as to Rome. — Chamb6ry. —Les
Charmettes.-Priests abound.-Holy Hill.-Praying in a Hurry.To Geneva.-First View. -Obvious Difference.-Friends in a far
Country................................................ 178
CHAPTER XXX.
Geneva: its Attractions. -Miniature of Mont Blanc. -Missionary
Anniversary.-The Oratoire. —A Drive up the Lake.-Ferney. —
Voltaire. - Magnificent View. - A Soiree. - Dr. Malan. - D'Aubign. —Gaussen.-La Harpe.-St. George.-Talk through an Interpreter.-Polite Interchange.-Love-feasts............... 185
CHAPTER XXXI.
For Chamouny.-Enter Sardinia.-Obvious Change. —Fete at Bonneville. - The Ravine. - Fall d'Arpenaz. - Bridge at St. Martin's:
its View.- Selling Echoes. -Ascent of Montanvert. - Mer de
Glace.-Cracks in the Ice.-View from the Cottage.-Snow-balling.-Salanche.-Return to Geneva....................... 191
CHAPTER XXXII.
Geneva: its Influence.-Calvin: his System.-Knox.-Sunday in
Geneva.-The Market-place.-St. Peter's.-Gaussen in the Oratoire.-Cathedral Services. —Dr. Malan's Chapel.-An Evening
with his Family.-Sabbath Desecration.-Importance of rightly
sanctifying the Sabbath.-To whom we owe its true Keeping. 197
CHAPTER XXXIII.
Up Lake Lehman. —Lausanne. —Farrel.-Priestly Profligacy.-Captain Packenham. — His Definition. -Neufchatel.  Needed Reformation. -Farrel's Visit.-His Grave. —To Basle: its Appearance
-its History-its Reformation.-CEcolampadius.-Erasmus. 204




i1                     CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXXIV.
Departure from Basle.-Valley of the Rhine.-Variety of Travelers.
-Characteristic Reply.-An Observer.-A Question answered.Strasburg: its wondrous Clock. —Advice to the Priests.-The Cathedral.-An American Prelate.-Jews- burned.-Why no Relics.
-Poor Scotland.-Searched. —To Baden-Baden....... Page 211
CHAPTER XXXV.
Baden-Baden. — Conversation House.- The Gambling-room. —The
Manner of the Game, and Gamblers.-Monopoly in Gambling!Hot Springs.-Their Manner of Use.-The new Castle. —Breakfastroom.-Underground Apartments.-Awful History..........  217
CHAPTER XXXVI.
To Frankfort from Baden-Baden. —Htel Russie.-The City.-Cathedral.-Jews' Quarters.- Rothschilds. —Their History, and its
Lessons.-To Cassel.-Down the Rhine.-Ruins, and their History.-The Rhine and Hudson compared.-Cologne.-The Dom.Mary and Bambino again.-The Three Kings.-The Bargain declined.-An Inference.-St. Ursula. —Bridge of Boats........ 223
CHAPTER XXXVII.
From Cologne to Brussels.-Aix-la-Chapelle: its History and holy
Relics.-Brussels.-The Parc.-Sabbath in Brussels. -St. Gudule.
— Preaching in Flemish.-A sudden Stop.-Anecdote of Dr. Nesbit.-High Mass.-Lifting the Pay.-Tour of Observation.-Scenes
in the Parc and Streets.- The Manikin: his curious History. -
The miraculous Wafers.................................. 230
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
To Waterloo.-The Village.-The Field.-Just the Place for the
Battle. —The dreadful Spot.-Feelings excited there.-Conjectures.
-Justice to Bonaparte. —What has England gained — Through
Flanders to Ostend. —The Hulk.-Rapid Flight.... -.. 237
CHAPTER XXXIX.
Fleetwood. — Bathing Establishment. - State-room  Companion.Landing in Ireland.-Introduction to the Assembly.-Dr. Cook.Dr. Edgar.-Dr. Stewart.-Dr. Dobbin.-Dr. Carlisle.-Dr. Dill.Dr. Goudy.-An excited Scene.-Great Speech of Dr. Cook.-Two
Bodies compared.-The Irish Way.-A more excellent Way. 244




CONTENTS.                        VU
CHAPTER XL.
Visit to Connaught.-Sligo.-Emigrants.-Often remove for the
Worse.-Camline. —Famine Scenes.-A young Hero.-The Dead
Ass and Family.-Industrial- Schools. —Several visited.-Priestly
Outrages.-Visit at Home. —Great Changes.-Dublin.-AMr. King.
-Dr. Urwick.-An Incident.-A brighter Day coming..Page 251
CHAPTER XLI.
Down the Liffey.-Up the Clyde.-Glasgow.-John Henderson.-The
Cathedral.- Necropolis.- M'Gavin.- Communion Service.- Tokens and Tables.- Pew Communion. -Dr. Gordon.-The Irish
Mission.-Gaelic Chapel.-Dr. Candlish.-Model School.-Examination.-A Dihner-party.-Edinburgh described............. 258
CHAPTER XLII.
Park.-Rev. J. A. James. —Sail to ObaA.-Oban.-Royalty in Exile.
-Sail round Mull.-Staffa: its Cave.- -Iona: its History.-Ruins.
-Culdees.-Royal Graves.-The ruling Passion.-Stone Crosses.
-Talk on the Wheel-box -..................... —............ 266
CHAPTER XLIII.
To Ballahulish.-Glencoe: its Wildness.-Ossian's Bir,th-place.Massacre.-Scotch Bittock.-A Moor.-Barren Possessions.-Duke
of Breadalbane.-Loch Lomond.-Sketches from Nature.-Inversnaid.-A  Cabin.-Loch Katrine.-Trosachs.-Our Coachman.Sabbath in Callander.-Identity of the Gaelic and Irish Languages.
-Comparison.-To Liverpool.............................  273
CHAPTER XLIV.
To Wales.-Menai Straits.-Tubular Bridge.-Length.-View from
beneath: from the Top.-Last View.-Friends at Liverpool.-Sailing.-Voyage.-Passengers.-Last Evening.-Our Farewell>. 282








MEN AND THINGS
AS SEEN IN EUROPE.
CHAPTER I.
The Voyage opens.-Our Passengers.-A Voyage a Voyage. —A Picture.-Death on Board. -Burial at Sea.-An Ocean Grave undesirable.
Departure.                                  At sea.
THE morning of the 3d of April, 1851, opened brill.
iantly. A bright blue sky had succeeded to the dripping clouds of the previous day. The fine old packet
Montezuma', Captain De Courcey, weighed anchor, and
gave her canvas to a favoring northwester. Our sail
down the bay of New York, with many friends on board,
was as pleasant as -could be expected; and when we bid
them farewell as they were ordered away, we felt, for
the moment, as if somne ties were broken that might not
again be united. Soon Sandy liook was passed —soon
the Neversink hills died away in the distance, until
they seemed as walls propping up the western sky;
and when the hour for tea arrived, we could only see
the heavens above, and a world of waters around us.
We were at sea.
When a man in a crowded hotel is told that he must
lodge in the same room with half a dozen of men, the
desire instinctively arises to know something of them;
A2




10             MEN AND THINGS
Our companions.                            A voyage.
and so, with an imprisonment in the cabin of a ship
for a month before you, there is a strong desire to
know who are your companions. We met together at
the table-we studied each others' physiognomy-and.
drew our own conclusions.  There was the demure,
pleasant, intelligent, but dyspeptic physician; the eloquent, learned, but nervous and home-sick divine; the
plethoric, gouty, and outspoken Western banker; the
thin, tall, sensitive, singular, versatile, imaginative man
of letters and fashion, who soon obtained the soub}riquet
of "Professor;'" and a short, stout, imperturbable Israelite, with an Abrahamic visage, who soon answered
to the name of 6"Monsieur Gibraltar," and who, fiom
the extent of his travels as a peddler of jewelry, might
be taken for the wandering Jew himself.  These, with
a few others, equally good men but less characteristic,
made up our cabin company across the Atlahtic.
A voyage is a voyage in all seas and latitudes.  All
meet with the same incidents.  They are sick, and
then well. They are now in calm, now in storm. Now
they ship a sea, and now they see a ship. And when
the passengers have used up all their small talk-and
when the medium of pleasant intercourse is all exhausted-and when the weather is cold, and no fire to
warm you-and when you are too stupid to write, too
cold to read, and too sulky to talk; and when, in addition, you are beset by calms and head winds, I know
of nothing more intolerable than a sea voyage.  How
often did we say that if God would forgive us this time,
and return us safe home, we would not be caught committing the sin of going to sea again. But as men soon
forget, amid the comforts of wealth, the labor and. suf



AS SEEN IN EUROPE.             11
A passenger.                         Case of sickness.
fering of its acquisition, so we, amid the new scenes
that opened upon us as we traversed the Old World, soon
forgot the tedium and suffering of the voyage, and he
who complained most is now the most eager to try it
again.
One incident, of the deepest interest, occurred duoing our voyage. There sat on the forward deck, as we
went down to the New York bay, a young man with a
wan cheek, and pale lips, and sunken eye, which showed that fell consumption was preying upon his vitals.
He was a young Irishman returning to his native land
in search of health. A female sat by his side-his sis.
ter; and when the friends of the passengers were ordered
away, they kissed and parted, with the strongest emQ.
tions. A widowed mother was expecting him home;
and this sister, ihith throbbing heart, was expecting his
return, in improved health. Both were disappointed.
He was a passenger in the second cabin; and as the
winds and waves soon placed us all on the sick-list, I
lost sight of him for many days, and even his first appearance had passed away from my memory. When
our voyage was about half made, a female informed
me that a young man in her cabin was very sick, and
greatly needed religious instruction. Being informed
that a visit from me would be agreeable, I hastened to
his berth. My interview with him was deeply affecting. He was a child of Protestant parents. On coming to this country, he had given up all regard for religious things, and lived only for the world and pleasure.
A cold had grown into a consumption, which was now
near its closing act; and as tenderly as faithfulness
would permit, I suggested that, if our voyage should




12             MEN AND THINGS
A visit to the sick.                A scene at midnight.
be protracted, as there was reason to fear, he might not
live to its close. The thought seemed new and overwhelming, and he turned away and wept. I asked
him as to his preparation for eternity. I saw at once,
from his answer, the need of a protracted visit; and
taking my seat on a greasy trunk by his side, I sought
to instruct him into the way of the Lord. I sought in
a variety of ways to impress him with a sense of his
own sinfulness. I sought to place Christ before him
as the only way of escape for sinners-as the only way
to heaven; and then, surrounded by his fellow-passengers in the same cabin, I committed him to God in prayer, and especially implored that the ocean might not be
made his grave. The effect upon him was not such as
I desired; upon others it was deeply solemn.
On the day following he greatly revived, and played
cards. The succeeding Sabbath was to be Easter Sunday; and, after the manner of those who regard such
times and seasons, he commenced his preparations to
keep it. With him and others, it was to be a jolly day.
I sent kind inquiries, and asked for another interview;
but it was declined for the present. On Saturday I
learned that he was quite well, and hoped to be on deck
on Sunday. There was a change in the weather toward the close of the day. The wind increased the
tossing of the ship, and the atmosphere became quite
damp. About midnight I was.called from my berth
to do what I could for the dying man. I crowded my
way, half dressed, to his berth, where he lay panting
away his life. The glaze of death was already in his
eye. The sweat of death was on all his members,
His every sense was closed. He was beyond all aid




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.               13
Woman's sympathy.                           Funeral.
from man. The scene was deeply affecting. There,
on the bosom of the wide Atlantic, at midnight, the
winds high, and the billows raging,Jlay a man, surrounded only by strangers, in the last moments of his
existence. Nor were these strangers neglectful of him.
Women were there, who with maternal and sisterly
solicitude ministered to his wants and wept over his
sufferings. Feeling that he was beyond my reach, I
addressed myself to those around me. The profane
swearer, the card-player, the infidel, the Papist were
there. But death has power to silence all objections,
and to open all ears to serious instruction. I pointed
them to the end of all flesh, and to the need of preparation for it; and then implored grace from the God of
grace for the dying and the living. I retired to my
berth, not to sleep, but to ponder the scene I had just
witnessed, the most solemn of my life.
At the dawn of the morning it was announced in my
state-room that'he was no more. Arrangements were
made for his burial after breakfast. At the hour appointed the corpse was brought on deek, sewed up in
sail cloth, with a weight attached to its feet. It was
laid upon a plank, one end of which extended over the
side of the ship, and the other rested on the long boat.
The flag of our country, with its stars and stripes, covered the capstan, on which lay a Bible. The passengers and crew were all assembled. There were veteran tars and veteran sinners; but all were affected.
There were Protestants and Papists; but all heard with
equal interest.  I spoke fro'm the text, "And the sea
gave up the dead which were in it." And as the great
truths pertaining to the resurrection were unfolded, and




14             MEN AND THINGS
Burial at sea.                   A grave there not desirable.
as.the picture was drawn of the wide sea, whose waves
seemed to be singing a death dirge around us, giving
up all its dead, a solemn stillness pervaded the mixed
congregation.  The order was now given to bury the
corpse; when two sailors gently raised the end of the
plank which rested on the long boat, and it slid into
its ocean grave. One plunge, and all was over.
While it makes but little difference where the body
is laid; if the spirit is only prepared for its home in the
skies, yet there is something greatly undesirable in a
burial at sea. Death at sea is usually not expected
there. Friends are usually absent. A grave there is
away from the sepulchres of our fathers. No mother's
tears can bedew it-no stone can mark our restingplace-no'hand of affection can plant the cypress, the
yew, or the willow at our head; no green grass in the
spring, an emblem of the resurrection, will ever cover
our narrow house. Our bones may rest as securely
among its pearls and corals asaon land, but the wide,
wild waste above has no attractions. And as the noise
of that one plunge sounded through the ship, the silent
prayer ascended from my heart to Heaven, " 0 Lord, if
consistent with thy holy will, let none of my descendants to the remotest generation find their grave in the
ocean."




AS SEEN IN'EUROPE.               15
Sight ofland.                           Liverpool docks.
CHAPTER II.
First Sight of Land. - Voyage Ended. - Liverpool. - Dr. Raflles.Souls from Purgatory. —abbath in Liverpool.-First Sermon in
Britain.-Dr. Hugh M'Neil.-Chat with a Lady.
WE were all weary of the sea, and were as anxious
for a sight of land as they who watch for the morning.
"Captain," said one of our passengers at dinner, who
went by the name of " Colonel of Mooney's brigade,"
"when shall we see land?"
"About four this afternoon," was the reply. We
mustered on deck, and at four the southern coast of
Ireland lay dimly in view, and before the day closed
rose fully upon us. With what sailors call a " soldier's
wind," we beat along the Channel as we could. With
the rock-bound shores of Erin in full view, we passed
"old head of Kinsale," and afterward the "Tuscar
light," and " Holyhead," and the " Skerries," when our
gallant ship turned her head toward Liverpool. Soon
a pilot was on board; and a "tug" took us in tow;
and our sails were furled; and at about ten o'clock on
the night of the first of May we turned into one of the
Royal Docks for-which that city is famed. These docks
are easily described. Deep and vast excavations are
made on the banks of the Mersey, which are surrounded with solid masonry. These connect with the river
by gates, like those which form the locks on our 6anals. When the tide is full, which rises very high there,




16             MEN AND THINGS
Liverpool.                                 Dr..Raffles
these gates are opened, and vessels of any burden pass
in aud out at pleasure. When the tide commences
falling, these gates are closed, and ships of any tonnage
ride within them in perfect safety. Such docks require only a high tide and mercantile enterprise to be
made any where.
Liverpool is purely a commercial city, displaying little of either taste or beauty. There is much wealth,
and solid worth, and active philanthropy there; but its
public buildings possess no architectural beauty; its
most fashionable residences look plain and dingy; and,
with the exception of Prince's Park, which lies outside
the city, we observed not a place, or a spot to be compared with any of the parks, or many of the streets
which adorn New York or Philadelphia. Save for a
man of business, I consider it a most uninviting place
of residence.
The -name of Dr. Raffles, for many years a distinguished minister of that city, is quite familiar to our
American ears. Through a mutual friend, rising to a
distinguished rank among the merchants of that city,
I had a most pleasant introduction to him. He invited
us to breakfast. We went at half past eight, and left
at ten,o'clock. The visit was remarkably pleasant.
He is a man of medium height, of full habit, with a
full and fresh English face; his external man strongly
recalling-to memory the late Dr. Codman, of Dorchester.  He is full of information-free and frank in con.
versation-abounding in anecdote; and these, connected and enlivened with a vein of humor and wit, make
him a most agreeable companion. Although probably
turned of sixty years, he is yet in the full moon of life,




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.               17
An anecdote.     Priestly fraud.   A soul from Purgatory.
and the active, efficient, beloved pastor of one of the
largest congregations of that commercial emporium.
With dramatic humor, which exhausted all our power
of laughter, he narrated some incidents, illustrating
the absurdities of Popery, and the gross frauds practiced by the priests upon their people. Of these the
following is a specimen.
An Englishman in Ireland was introduced to a Popish
chapel there, when souls were to be delivered from Purgatory. The place was brilliantly lighted. The priest
sat at a table on which the relatives of the departed,
whose souls were to be released, laid money as they
passed. Having collected-his wages, the priest commenced his operations, and soon announced that the
souls were liberated, and would speedily make their appearance. Immediately a part of the floor opened, and
there issued from it small living creatures of red color,
to the joyful amazement of all present. One of these
creatures jumped near to the Englishman, who seized
it, and, putting it in his pocket, rushed out. Breathless, he soon entered the parlor of his friend, exclaiming, as he flung the living creature upon the table,
"There is a soul just delivered from Purgatory." It
was found to be a frog dressed in red flannel! He was
told, as he valued his life, not to reveal the' deception,
at least until he had crossed the Channel.
While it is difficult to give credence to a story like
this, those acquainted with the many uses made of Purgatory to filch money from the pockets of the ignorant
and superstitious will not deem it incredible. But it
requires the Doctor's manner to give it the effect which
it produced upon us. He suited admirably the action




18             MEN AND THINGS
First Sabbath.     Happy beginning.      Dr. M'NeIl.
to the word, a species of eloquence which can not be
printed.
My first sermon in Europe, and the last, was preached in the-pulpit of this distinguished minister. I met
him, previous to the service, in the vestry, surrounded
by his deacons. The sexton was tjhere to put on the
gown and bands, which are universally worn by all
classes of ministers in Europe. The Bible and hymn
book are taken to the pulpit before the preacher enters
it. The minister then passes into the church preceded
by the sexton, who opens the pulpit door for him and
shuts him in. Tken the services commence, and are
conducted in form and fashion as in our best regulated Presbyterian churches. On this occasion the Doctor conducted the introductory services with a propriety, solemnity, and unction which made them deeply
impressive, mingling with his supplications a devout
thanksgiving for my happily-ended voyage, and for my
merciful deliverance from the perils of the deep. The
services ended with the administration of the Lord's.Supper, in which I was permitted to unite. I deemed the whole service a merciful beginning and a hap.
py omen of my subsequent Sabbaths and rambles in
Europe.
On the evening of the Sabbath, in company with two
friends, I went out to hear Dr. Hugh M'Neil, at Prince's
Park. He is noted as an eloquent preacher-as an
evangelical minister-as a controversialist-a millenarian-and a most bitter Tory politician. It is said that
on election eras he preaches politics, as on other occasions he preaches Christ. I was sorry to hear this.
His church is large, and cruciform; and in the modern




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.               19
Evening at Prince's Park.                The sermon.
style of Church architecture. A police officer stood at
each of its doors to regulate carriages and the goers in.
We were ordered by one of these officers from one door
to another, and were kept standing in the aisle until
service commenced, and might have stood there to its
close but for the recognition of my friend by a pew owner.. The introductory services were conducted by an
assistant or curate; and, when ended, the Doctor entered the pulpit. He is a tall, slender man, straight
as an arrow, with grayish hair, and a face of ScotchIrish. cast; for all the world from his neck up like Professor Mulligan of New York. Judging from his face,
any body would say that -he was predestinated to be a
Presbyterian, and of the deepest blue. He was born
in Ireland. He took his text from a small Bible which
he held in his hand, and which he never laid down during the exercise. His sermon was extempore, calm,
expository, truly scriptural, and exceedingly impressive.
It contained some passages of great strength, in which
he scornfully scouted any definition of the Church
which would exclude from it any who truly believe on
Christ, and in which he gave to Popery " forty save
one.". All my feelings were in sympathy with the man
and his subject; and I did not wonder that he had
been once a competitor for the highest popularity with
Irving in London. He was beaten by the Scot.
I could not help saying, at the close of the service,
to the lady by whose side I sat, " I hope you feel thankful to God for a minister so truthful and able."  "I
hope we do, sir," she replied, taking me cordially by
the hand. " And who will I tell him was so gratified
in hearing him this evening?" she asked. " Will you




20            MEN AND THINGS
ralk with a lady.                 Oxfordism denounced.
return him the thanks of a Presbyterian clergyman
from America for his excellent sermon, and who spends,
to-day, his first Sabbath in England?" was my reply.
She again took me by the hand, and with a radiant
face replied, " I will go to the vestry and do it instantly."
And as I returned from the Church, I could not help
wishing that some of our narrow, and selfish, and exclusive ministers of the High-Church cut, in our own
free country, could have heard Dr. MiNeil with me on
that occasion. The Low-Church ministers of England
are far more outspoken than in this country. Not
merely Oxfordism, but the exclusive dogmas of HighChurchism, which give over other Christians to uncovenanted mercies, they denounce in words that burn.
They are not dependent, as here, upon the bishops, for
their places and stipends. There is no pecuniary motive to silence. Never will I forget the lashing which
the noble stammering Bishop Daly gave them-of
which more anon.
Thus was spent my first Sabbath in England.




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.               21
Leaving.Liverpool.                       Comparisons.
CHAPT-ER  III.
Ride from Liverpool to London. —Chat in the Cars.-.London.-Samuel Gurney.-Reform in Ireland. —Rev. Mr. Jowett.-John Henderson.-Dr. Achilli.-Caution as to Priests.
THE Station-house at Liverpool is quite an affair,
and is managed with a quietness and promptness which
surprises those who only know the bustle, noise, and
rudeness of railway depots and bfficials in America.
The railway cars are divided into three apartments,
each containing six persons. With the assistance of an
English lady, well-bred and intelligent, and somewhat
beyond the medium dimensions, there were enough of
us from America to fill oiie of the departments. We
were off at the-appointed moment-we were soon lost
in the darkness of the tunnel through which you leave
the city-and after you emerge again into the' light,
the villas, the cultivation, the green swards, the beautiful hedge-rows of Old England opened upon our view.
Soon we commenced our comparisons of things in our
own country with those which every where attracted
our attention, and the truth of the old adage, " comparisons are odious," was soon apparent in the conduct of
our English friend. With noble heroism, she advanced to the defense of " her own, her native land."
We admired her cleverness and shrewdness, while
we could not help a smile occasionally at her ignorance
of our country. We had many a pass, as pleasant as




22            MEN AND THINGS
A chat.            A surrender.:       London
they were mirthful, which made us forget that we
were flying toward London at the'rate of nearly fifty
miles an hour. At length, when pushed a little harder than politeness toward a lady would warrant from
Americans, she sought to silence us all by the magnificent sentence, " but all that man, wealth, cultivation,
and taste can do, they have done for England."
" True, madam," was the reply; " but all that God
can do he has done for our country. Man has made
England, but God has made America."
" I give up, I give up," she replied, with a hearty
laugh. Soon we reached London, and separated, feeling that some, at least, of the spice of life consists in
variety of opinion, and not esteeming each other the
less because of it., The blunt honesty of the English,
even when it approaches rudeness, as it often does, in
the advocacy of what they esteem right, is much more
to my taste than the gum-elastic pliancy of the French,
who sacrifice every thing to politeness,
We are now in London, the world's Babel, and its
greatest centre of influence. It is sawell known, and
is so much like some of the older parts of some of our
older cities, that I shall not undertake to describe it.
After taking rooms at Woods', High Holborn, and arranging our money affairs for-the Continent, we went
out to do duty and to see sights. My first call was
upon Samuel Gurney,- the brother of the well known
John I. Gurney, and of Mrs. Fry, to whom I had a
note of introduction frotr the late Dr. Griscom, of scientific and philanthropic memory. He is a plain Quaker, wearing the full dress of his people, of strong physioal development, and of a pleasing benignant aspect.




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.               23
Samuel Gurney.      Mr. Jowett.        His warm replMy
He is at the head of a large banking house, and his
time and fortune are freely devoted to all efforts to do
good. He well sustains the reputation of a family
which has an American as well as a European reputation for well doing. He offered me the hospitalities of
his house, and to introduce me to some of the benevolent institutions of the city, which my other arrangements compelled me to decline. He stated, among
other efforts to do good, one in which he and some of
his friends were engaged in reference to Ireland, which
consisted in buying large tracts of land, sold under a
recent act of Parliament, and then reselling them in
small farms, in fee simple, ta the farmers of the- country.  This plan, if made universal, would soon work
the redemption and elevation of that unhappy island.
Thence I went to the rooms of the British and Foreign Bible Society, which was to hold its anniversary
on the following day, and delivered my credentials as
a delegate from its sister society in America, and was
most kindly and cordially received by its secretaries.
I there met the venerable Mr. Jowett, brother of the
famed missionary in the East. He is a man of middle
size, gray, and perfectly blind. He was led about by
a young girl. After a brief conversation, in which he
showed a heart intensely alive to the cause of Christ,
I rose to take my departure, saying, "We shall soon
be where we can both speak to and see one- another."
He instantly replied, with a warm pressure of the hand,
" We shall see Christ as he is, which is far better."  I
was deeply affected by the sight of the apostolical man,
laid aside, in Providence, from his labors, led about by
the hand of a maid, with sightless eye-balls seeking




24            MEN AND THINGS
I. Henderson.        Dr. Achilli.       His person.
light and finding none. How joyful must be the anticipations of Heaven to such a s4int, just putting off
his harness!
At a meeting for prayer, held morning and evening
at our hotel, I was introduced to John Henderson, Esq.,
of Park, one of the princely merchants of Glasgow, who
came up to London to preside at the meeting of the
Tract Society. He is a well-known friend of'the religious press, was the chief agent in getting up and
getting out the prize essays on the Sabbath, one of
which is entitled " The Pearl of Days," and also a most
valuable volume, which has not been reprinted in this
country, entitled " The Christian Sabbath," and which
consists of a series of sermons by some of the ablest
clergymen of North and South Britain. From this
gentleman and Christian, from whom I received many
acts of kindness both in London and Scotland, I received an invitation to breakfast at his rooms, in company with the far-famed Dr, Achilli. Greatly desirous of an interview with this reformed priest, I accepted the invitation.
We met at eight at the rooms of Mr. Henderson, and
separated at ten.  Dr. Achilli, an Italian by birth, a
Papist ana priest by education, and subsequently a
popular preacher and professor, is now, as the world
knows, a Protestant. His imprisonment in the Inquisition, his escape thence, the charges preferred against
him by Father Newman and Cardinal Wiseman, and
the developments made in the recent trial of Newman
for slander, have given him great notoriety. He is a
short man, firmly built, with jet black hair, and a black
and restless eye. His age may be an advance on for



AS SEEN IN EUROPE.               25
His manners.         A translator.        My opinion..
ty years. His manners are pleasant, and in conversation he is free-decidedly talkative. Although his English was very broken, and my Italian in a far worse
condition, we needed no interpreter. Beyond all men
that I ever heard, he was dead upon Popery and the
priests. -His competency as a witness none can question. And, until I saw Naples and Rome for myself,
I supposed his fierce persecution by his former friends
gave a tinge of bitterness to his testimony. Now I can
believe any thing as to the shameless immoralities and
gross corruption of the Italian priests. He said he was
engaged in a translation of the New Testament into
Italian for the Baptist Bible Society of New York. We
had quite a discussion as to the meaning of the word
"baptize," in which he showed but little acquaintance
with the history of the controversy or with the Greek,
and in which he admitted the validity of baptism by
water, in any quantity, while he betrayed a preference
to the mode by immersion.
I am free to confess that I was not so favorably impressed as I expected to have been. It is hard thoroughly to purge a man from the virus of Popery, who
has practiced'for years together the wicked jugglery
of its priesthood. God can do it; but, as a rule, we
should wait for good evidence that it is done.  The
barrel, emptied of a bitter liquid, long retains its scent
and its taste. I have read the Newman trial with
some care; and while it pours confusion upon Rome
and her priests, I confess I should not wonder if there
were some grounds for the charges against Achilli.
What reason have we to suppose that, while a priest in
Italy, he did not live as do Italian priests? But since
B




26             MEN AND THINGS
Converted priests.                      Care requisite.
his hopeful conversion, every effort and witness failed
to prove moral delinquency. May he endure to the
end and be saved.
As light and truth are extending, Papal priests are
surrendering their wicked and deceptive trade, and
the number of such must increase from year to year.
But Protestant churches should know that conversion
from Popery is not conversion to Christ. And we
should wait for more than ordinary evidence& as to the
conversion of a man who spent years in converting a
wafer into God, in hearing confessions and forgiving
sins for fifty cents a head, in massing souls out of Purgatory, and in deceiving ignorant people by other priestly fabrications, before we admit him to the privileges
and immunities of the Christian Church. It takes time
thoroughly to imbue a mind with the spiritualism of
Christianity which has long been accustomed to re.
gard it as a matter of ceremony.




AS SEEN  IN EUROPE.                27
British and Foreign Bible Society.  Exeter Hall.  No pretension.
CHAPTER IV.
Exeter Hall.-Meeting of the British and Foreign Bible Society. —
Lord Ashley.-Marquis of Cholmondeley. —Earl of Harrowby. —
Sir Robert H; Ingles.-Dr. Duff.-Salt among the Aristocracy.
THE meeting of the British and Foreign Bible Society is the great anniversary of London. The great
rally of Protestantism is on its platform.  There, all
who receive the Bible as the all-sufficient Rule of
Faith-forgetting all minor differences-meet, and rejoice together in the privileges and blessings of our
common Christianity. Accompanied by a few friends,
we went early to the Committee-room at Exeter Hall,
where we were introduced to the officers of the society,
the speakers, and to the noblemen, gentlemen, and
clergymen, who were present in considerable number.
At the appointed hour we entered, by a side door, the
platform of the hall itself, headed by Lord Ashley, the
president, and were received with applause by the
crowd of spectators.  This famous hall is a large
oblong room, without galleries, with an elevated platform at one end, and the seats rising toward the other.
It reminds an American, not so much of the Tabernacle
at New York, as of the Musical Fund Hall of Philadelphia. Being the representative of our American
Bible Society, I was assigned a prominent seat, next
but one to the President; and, although surrounded by
the nobles of the land and the dignitaries of the Church,




28             MEN AND THINGS
Lord Ashley.       His appearance.      Cholmondeley
they were as plain and as unpretending men in their
appearance as we ever meet in good society. In point
of pretension, a New York clerk or Puseyite priest
would beat any of them.
After the reading of a portion of Scripture, Lord
Ashley, who then presided for the first time as president, rose, and uttered a brief but noble speech. It
was full of sense, piety, and noble Protestantism. And
when he uttered the sentence, " the evangelization of
the nations and the peace of the world depend upon
the full, free, and- universal circulation of the Word of
God," a plaudit rose from the vast assembly, loud and
long, which it was good to hear.  This nobleman, now
the Earl of Shaftsbury, is making his mark upon his
age. He is at the head of the Ragged School system,
if not its originator.  He is devoting his fortune, the
influence of his position, and his personal industry, to
the instruction and elevation of the lowest classes of
society. He is yet in mid-life, tall, spare, of light complexion, easy, kind, and modest in manner, and bearing a most striking resemblance to the lamented Dr.
Kearney Ro(lgers, of New York.  "May he live," in
the language of the Celestials, " a thousand years."
There sat down by my side a small man shortly after
the meeting opened, who was greeted with solne " ruffling"*as he entered by the side door. During the reading of the report, he was making marks on the floor
with a small ratan.  "The first resolution will be offered by the Marquis of Cholmondeley," said the President, when, to my.no little amazement, up jumped my
left-hand neighbor, offered the resolution, and made
quite a speech. I had no idea I was so near a marquis,




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.               29
Harrowby.       Sir R. H. Ingles.  His speech and person.
and while I saw in his address but little thought or
force, the audience must have seen it full of both, as
they clapped him most profusely. But I soon saw that
the clapping always rose or fell with the title of the
speaker. We had a similar speech from the Earl of
Harmowby, which for its fulsome eulogy of the new
president was intolerable, and whose redeeming quality
was a vein of earnest piety.
The name of Sir Robert H. Ingles, then member of
Parliament for Oxford, was announced. He is a man
of mark in the House, and his connection with Romanizing Oxford excited some interest. He has rendered himself quite famous recently by his awful review of the Bishop of Exeter, in which he leaves neither root nor branch of that vain, turbulent, selfish,
but very clever prelate, who once honestly wrote a
powerful pamphlet against Catholic emancipation, and
then answered it for a mitre; and who exercises his
apostolical functions and patronage so discreetly as to
pension almost all his poor relations with fat offices.
The speech of the noble baronet was truly excellent;
and a feeling of deep solemnity pervaded the entire
auditory when he said with emotion and self-application, " No man ought to stand up here to advocate the
diffusion of the Bible, unless he makes it his first duty
to regulate his own life and heart by its precepts.
Whether we have placed the Bible or not in the hands
of the negro, the Esquimaux, or the Chinese, matters
little to any of us personally, unless we have the Bible
in our own hearts."  Sir Robert is a large, portly man,
with a full, rosy face, fluent utterance, decidedly and
subjectively pious, and was, on the whole the most per



30             MEN AND THINGS
Bishop of Cashel.                  HIis person and speech.
feet personification of an Englishman on the platform.
Unless he relishes his roast beef, his plum pudding,
and his mug of ale, he should have his outer man indicted for bearing false testimony against him.
The Bishop of Cashel was announced from the chair,
and my right-hand neighbor was on his feet in a moment. He seemed eager for the opportunity. He is
a strongly built, frank, stammering Irishman, with
clearly defined principles and strong emotions. And
how fearfully he lashed High-Churchism' and Oxfordism! Much as I dislike both of them, I felt like asking my brother bishop to have a little mercy.  " Nothing," he said, " promotes Roman Catholicism like departing in any thing from the Scriptures. If the simple Scriptures had been adhered to in certain portions
of our Church, we should never have heard, first, of the
semi-popery, and then of the whole popery of those who
have left a stain upon the Church which they have
deserted. Long before people knew they had a tinge
of Popery, they were too High. Church to be members
of the Bible Society. They have deserted the Church
of England, but they have not deserted the Bible Society, for they never belonged to it." Would that those
in our country, in and out of the Episcopal denomination, who are for treating High-Churchism in its modern developments gingerly, could have heard the lashing given it by the Lord Bishop of Cashel, in Exeter
Hall. It would have nerved their energies to treat its
assumptions as they richly deserve. Bad, in many respects, as is the Irish establishment, it has too much
of Popery around it to fall in love with any of its tricks
or devices. There is no Puseyism in Ireland. There




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              31
Dr. Duff.                        His manner of speaking.
should be none within the wide domain of Protestantism.
But, beyond all question, the man of the meeting was
Dr. Duff, the great Scotch missionary at Calcutta. I
had heard of him-I had read his powerful and moving
addresses and communications, but now I saw and
heard him. The day was chilly, and he sat near me,
wrapped up in a cloak. He is quite tall, probably six
feet two or three inches, when he takes the folds out
of his body. He is a very slender man, with a small
head, thick black hair, combed back from his forehead
and temples, deep-sunken black eyes, hollow cheeks,
and presenting, on the whole, a worn, sickly aspect.
His accent is of the broadest Scotch, and his delivery
most'furious. When his name was announced, the
hall rang againm  He commenced like a race-horse,
and kept in full gallop to the close of a very long speech.
He twisted his body into all possible shapes-at one
time, a part of the tail of his coat was over his shoulder;
at another, he had every available portion of it closely
packed under one arm, so as to reveal his waistcoat
midway to his shoulders. I never heard such a torrent
of information, of history, of invective, of figure and
illustration, of vigorous grappling with pantheism, infidelity, and formalism, and of earnest exhortation to
the whole host of God's elect to a bold and united assault upon the army of the aliens. And as he traced
the progress of the soul emerging from the darkness of
nature into the light of revelation, and by the aid of
that light ascending step by step until introduced to
the general assembly and Church of the Firstrborn in
heaven, he held his audience in breathless silence.




32              MEN AND THINGS
The anniversary one of great interest.
When he concluded his speech he was dripping with
perspiration; and the moment his last words were uttered, he rolled his cloak around him, and, amid the
tumultuous applause of the house, darted out of the
hall.
This meeting of the British and Foreign Bible Society had other besides religious interest to me. There
were seen to meet and mingle all classes of men and
Christians on the common platform of their humanity
and Christianity. Dukes and earls were there in common dress, plain as the plainest; and if there was any
difference, with less force of intellect than their untitled brethren.  Yet it was charming to see their position and influence on the right side, and to hear the
strain of humble, fervent, earnest piety that ran through
all their speeches. There is much salt mingled with
the corruption which pervades the English aristocracy.
Lord Ashley, Sir Robert Ingles, and the Earl of Harrowby, are not, however, true samples of their class.
They form the exceptions.




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.               33
St. Paul's.          The Tower.          The waiters.
CHAPTER V.
St. Paul's. - The Tower. —The Thames. - Westminster Abbey.Stone of Destiny.-Regent's Square Church.-Dr. Hamilton.-St.
James's. -Westminster.-Bishop Wilberforce.
THE Cathedral of Saint Paul's, London, is a huge
superstructure, surmounting a hill, in a crowded part
of the city, near the Thames. Its immense walls are
being covered with the memorials of great men, who
by sea and land have extended and are extending the
dominion of England.  It did not impress us as we
expected, and we felt that the busts and boasting epi.
taphs of naval and military commanders might be somewhere else than in a house consecrated to the worship
of God.
The Tower of London is a collection of many buildings inclosed within a wall, whose gates are strongly
guarded. Its bloody history is known in all the earth.
We were shown the Armory, a long room crowded with
men on horseback, illustrating the kind of armor worn
for six centuries'past. The waiter, in harlequin dress,
who conducts you through it, gives you a brief and
rapid history of each knight, and gets you on and out
as quickly as possible. He gives you not a minute to
sketch, note, or consider.  The small, secluded room,
where are deposited the crown and crown jewels, is
an object of curiosity. Our company was counted as
we entered it; we were then given over to quite a
dainty old lady in cap and gloves, who took us around
B2




.34            MEN AND THINGS
Crown and jewels.                   Sail on the Thames.
a glass case, and gave us a hurried account of the various articles it inclosed, which she valued at twenty
millions, but whether pounds or dollars I do not remember, nor is it material. We were again counted
as we went out, and the door was shut. To one whose
heart has often bled in reading of the atrocities there
committed, and whose imagination has magnified it
into a most massive and towering prison, a frowning
relic of barbarism, it is a most flat affair. Its bloody
history alone invests it with the least interest, and there
are but few bloodier spots in Europe. As you pass over
its rough pavements and through its dark passages,
you feel as if haunted by the ghosts of the queens,
princes, nobles, saints, and sinners who were there legally and illegally murdered. What a bloody history
is that of England!
A sail up or down the Thames is a curious affair. It
runs through the city, and is one of the great thorough.
fares of the town. It is crowded with small steamers,
which stop at given points for receiving and discharging passengers, which'is'done with great rapidity. It
was our lot to see it and sail upon it when the tide
was down, and then the stream was small, the cur.
rent rapid, and the bed of the river exceedingly filthy.
Above the London Bridge, the rear of the houses and
warehouses run down to the river, which renders the
prospect any thing but pleasant to those upon its waters. Paris has made every thing of the Seine, and
Dublin much of the Liffy, but London has made nothing of the Thames for its adornment. Its shipping and
great docks lie below the London Bridge.
Westminster Abbey is a fine specimen of the old




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.               35
Westminster Abbey.   Lia fail.     Dr. Hamilton's church.
Gothic architecture. Days might be spent in viewing
and noting its points of interest, and the tombs of the
illustrious in letters. Its general plan is that of a Latin
cross. In the. Poet's Corner are the monuments of the
most distinguished poets of England; in other parts of
it are those of statesmen, warriors, scholars, and artists,
who have shed lustre on the British name. The mon.
archs of England are crowned in its choir, where under
the coronation chair is the famous stone " Lia fail," or
" stone of destiny," on which the kings of Ireland were
crowned for ages, and which had the peculiar property
of giving forth a terrific sound when any of the royal
Scythian race was crowned upon it, and of being silent on all. other occasions. It was taken from Tara to
Scone, in Scotland, and thence to England, and over it
the coronation chair now stands. The star of empire
is said to be governed by the movements of this stone!
The Irish legends have much to say about the "Lia
fail," and the good genius of Ireland yet weeps over its
removal. With its return to Tara there will be a return of empire!
I declined all invitations to preach in London, that
I might spend a-Sabbath in hearing and seeing for myself. As a good Presbyterian, I went to the church on
Regent Square, to hear the Rev. Dr. Hamilton, so fav.
orably known in our own country by several attractive, popular, and truly evangelical works. This is the
church in which Irving once preached with a popularity which has never been equaled-when prime ministers, dukes, and nobles were willing to enter by a window to hear him.  The church is plain, but substantial and large. I entered it before service commenced,




36             MEN AND THINGS
How sealed.         Dr. Hamilton.         St. James's.
and was shown to a backless bench in the middle aisle!
I had the consolation of seeing others, male and female,
treated with equal politeness. After the service commenced we were invited to empty pews, of which there
were several. Others accepted, but I declined the
honor; and, partly out of ill humor with their way
of treating strangers, I kept my backless seat through
the service. Instead of Dr. Hamilton, my old friend
Dr. Cunningham, so widely and favorably known in
America, rose in the pulpit and performed the entire
service. It was a missionary sermon from 2 Cor., v.,
14, 15-full of matter, sound, long, and exhaustive of
the text. It was Scotch throughout. After service I
was introduced, in the vestry, to Dr. Hamilton, with
whom I went to dinner, in company with Dr. Cunningham. Dr. Hamilton is very like his books-pleasant,
imaginative, free in conversation, full of information,
cheerful, with face, accent, and manner which would
prove his north Tweed origin if met in the moon.
Hearing that Wilberforce, bishop of Oxford, was to
preach a charity sermon in St. James's, Westminster, in
company with Dr. Cunningham, I took a very long walk
to hear him. The house was thronged when we reached it, and we went into the gallery. I took a stand in
front of a seat. which had two persons in it, but there
was no invitation to enter. After keeping my standling position for some time, I heard my name rather
audibly whispered into the ear of the beef-headed John
Bull that kept the seat, and by some person who had
seen me at Exeter Hall, when I was invited in. My
temper was much the same as at Regent's Square; but,'as my feet were not in the best condition to sustain it,




AS BEEN IN EUROPE.               37
The prayers.    Bishop of Oxford's sermon.  His person.
I bowed and entered. The service was read intoler.
ably, and was "rendered ludicrous in one portion of it,
where the minister paused, and, by way of parenthesis,
gave the name of a lady who desired to offer public
thanks for her safe delivery of a son! The singing was
performed by boys. The Bishop was heralded from the
vestry by a man wearing a military chapeau, and holding in his hand a wand of office; he conducted him to
the pulpit, arranged his robes, and shut him in. His
text was John, xvi., 26, and the sermon was decidedly
the poorest I heard in Europe. It was short, pointless,
and, save in a single paragraph at the close, without
any reference to the subject for which the collection
was solicited. He is said to be one of the ablest bishops on the bench, and if his was a specimen of their
preaching, I could most devoutly unite in the language
of the Liturgy, and pray, from such homilies, "may
the good Lord deliver us."  The Bishop is a short, not
handsome man, of youthful appearance, with considerable character for cleverness and eloquence. He is regarded as a Tractarian, and as sympathizing in many
things with some of his kindred who have already gone
to Rome. He so manages, however, as to excite the
hopes and the fears of each of the parties into which the
Church of Englan(t is divided, each party having claimed and disowned him. To such an extent has he carried this double dealing, as to have secured for himself
the appellation of "' Slippery Sam."'
How must the sainted spirit of William Wilberforce
regard, from its abode on high, the unworthy conduct
of his erring sons! Well said Solomon, that we know
not who shall come after us, whether they be wise men
or;thether they be fools.




38             MEN AND THINGS
Parliament House.                       House of Lords.
CHAPTER  VI.
Mr. Lawrence.-Parliament House.-House of Lords.-Lord Chancellor. - Duke of Argyle. - Wee Willie Skinner. - Lord Grey. -
Bishop Wilberforce.-Tout ensemble.-Law Lords.-Sir Culling
Eardley.-Badinage.
THROUGH the kindness of Mr. Lawrence, our minister
at the Court of St. James, and who, by his urbanity,
ability, and attentions to his countrymen, has won for
himself golden opinions in all quarters, myself and traveling companion got admission to the House of Lords.
This is an apartment in the new House of Parliament,
just as our Senate Chamber is an apartment in the Capitol at Washington. By-the-way, the Parliament House,
now approaching completion, struck me as greatly unEnglish.  It looks unsubstantial and undignified, because of the profusion of its ornamental and filagree
work. It impresses you as does a very large lady with
manifold pretensions, flounced and ruffled from head to
foot. When finished, it will be, however, a great affair.
It stands on the Thames and opposite to Westminster
Abbey, the streetsonly separating them.
The way to the gallery of the House of Lords is just
about as plain as is the way to the gallery of our own
House of Representatives, or Senate Chamber, in Washington. You need either a guide, or to be taught to
thread the labyrinth. We were shown the way, and
entered the gorgeous apartment. It is an oblong room,
most'richly carved and gilded, with the throne on one




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              39
Woolsack.       Lord Chancellor.   Wee Willy Skinner.
end, and the gallery in which we sat on the other. The
doors of admission to the floor were on either side of
the throne and opposite to us; there must have been
one or more beneath us, as on the adjournment the
Lord Chancellor made his exit in that direction. The
" Woolsack" is a plain, oblong settee, without back,
placed in the middle of the room, and upon which the
Lord Chancellor sat, who seems to act as the presiding
officer of the body, although never so addressed. Each
speaker addresses "lMy Lords."  The members sit
upon plain benches, rising like steps one above another.
The furnishing, and the carving, and gilding of the
room form a very strong contrast. We were seated
by an English clergyman who was acquainted with the
persons of all the peers, and who was ready to answer
all our questions. The woolsack was occupied by the
Chancellor in his robes, and buried in an enormous wig
of office. My friend asked me if he did not remind me
of quite an old lady in my congregation, now verging toward eighty years! The Duke of Argyle was there, tall,
straight, bold, with hair as red as a lobster, and, from
what I saw, of corresponding temper. He is the man
who, having partaken of the communion in the Episcopal Chapel in Glasgow, with his wife, was afterward
excommunjicated for partaking of it irkhis own church,
the Presbyterian. The Bishop who issued the bull is a
small, crooked man, formed after the pattern of a note of
interrogation.  The bull commenced thus: "We, William Skinner, Bishop," &c.; and from that day to this,
he is laughed at all over Britain as "Wee Willy Skinner." Lord Stanley was there, now ex-prime minister,
tall, thin, thoughtful, buttoned up to his chin, and ap



40             MEN AND THINGS
Lord Stanley.     Lord Grey.        Bishop Wilberforce.
parently in poor health. Lord Grey was there, son of
a former premier, of most ungainly aspect, his knees
boxing when he walked, as if bending under the. weight
of his slender form. There was quite a mixture of the
fat and the lean, the tall and the short, the smart and
the stupid. There was the Bishop of Cork, in full canonicals, old and infirm.
"And who is that?" said I to my neighbor, as a lord
spiritual entered, dressed in lawn, and took his seat.
"Wilberforce, bishop of Oxford," was the reply;
" and one of the most able and eloquent debaters here."
"I heard him preach a wretched sermon yesterday,
at St. James's," said I.
"Oh, he does not care much about preaching; he
lays out his strength here," said my kind informant.
"What kind of a man is he?" I asked.
"Well, I do not know; we all call him'Slippery
Sam,"' was the reply.
" And who is that?" said I, as a fine person entered,
rotund, bald, affable in manner, and of pleasant and
mild aspect.
"The richest peer of England, the Marquis of Westminster," was the reply.
The stars of the House were not there-the Iron
Duke had just rode away from the House as we approached it.
On the whole, I was most unfavorably impressed
with all I saw in the Upper House. All wore their hats
save when they rose to speak; then they took Them off,
and put them on again as soon as they ended. They
walked about without any restraint. The old men
looked stupid-indeed, one was asleep-and the young
lords, who formed the majority, seemed trifling in their




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              41
A contrast.      Law Lords.         Sir Culling Eardley.
manners and appearance. I know not of a point in
which they do not fail in comparison with the Senate
of the United States, especially when adorned by Clay,
Webster, and Calhoun. And the question arises, Why
do the decisions of such a body upon great law points
carry such weight over thai empire upon which the sun
never sets?  The reason is, that the "Law Lords"
alone decide such points. In theory every Lord has a
vote, but the carrying out of the theory would be contrary to that uniform practice which has given symmetry, and uniformity, and confidence to the judicial
decisions of the House of Lords. Is there not a lesson
here for our country to learn?
The name of Sir Culling Eardley is known to the
extreme boundaries of philanthropy and religion. I
was introduced to him by Mr. Henderson, of park, and
accepted an invitation to spend an evening at his beautiful residence at Belvidere, about fourteen miles from
London, on the Thames. He is a man of middle size,
pleasant, affable, well educated, simple in his manners,
and a zealous, humble Christian. The evening I spent
in his family, in company with a gentleman from India
and a minister from France, will not be soon forgotten.
" To what Church do you belong, sir?" said Lady
Eardley to me, as I sat by her side at the tea-table.
"To the Presbyterian," was my reply.
" Dear me!" said she; " from the way in which Sir
Culling spoke of you, I supposed you were an American bishop."
" Well, I am," I replied.
The following conversation then arose, to the no little amusement of Sir Culling and his friend from India, both of whom had seceded from the Episcopal




42             MEN AND THINGS
The true difference.                 Cure for difficulties.
Church, while Lady Eardley has continued her adherence to it.
"Do you Presbyterians believe in bishops?"
"Certainly; as all our standards teach."
"And how do you ordain ministers?"
"By the laying on of the hands of the bishops composing a Presbytery."
" In what, then, do you Presbyterians differ from us
Episcopalians?"
" In this: we have more bishops than you, and more
dioceses. We make every minister settled over a parish a bishop, and we make every parish a diocese.
And if you would do so here in England, you would
have far less trouble than you do."
"Well, I have never understood the difference between you and us before; and I do not know but that
it would be a great improvement upon our Church to
introduce your system into England. What do you
think, Sir Culling?"
While he made no reply, laughing merrily at the
badinage, I have no doubt but that he heartily assented to the improvement it would make in England
to convert every parish into a diocese, and every good
minister into a bishop. It would certainly save them
from such flares-up as the Philpotts of Exeter make.
Generations to come will call Sir Culling blessed. In
many of his expectations from his Alliance I deem him
visionary.  Yet he will have his reward. He has the
heart of a philanthropist. Thb glory of England would
be resplendent.as the sun if all its aristocracy were
like him. He is unwearied in well-doing, and in due
time he will reap his reward.




AS SEEN  IN EUROPE.                43
To Dover.            The town.             Fortifications.
CHAPTER VII.
London to Dover.-Dover.-A Voyage to Calais. —Official Imposition.-Landing in France. —A true Picture.-Ride from Calais to
Paris.-The Country.-Wind-mills. —People.-A Dissertation on
Vanes.
TalE railway from London to Dover lies through a
beautiful though level country. To an American accustomed to the bold scenery of the Hudson, and who
has crossed the Alleghanies, and who has spent years
among the Green Mountains, England seems quite
tame in physical aspect; to a traveler from Switzerland, it seems level as the ocean in a calm. In the
month of May, a magnificent cultivation every where
presents itself. Dover is a very bleak place, lying under snowy, chalk cliffs upon the sea. All the surrounding hills are covered with the strongest fortifications, which in the distance look like old ruins, that add
so much to the romantic beauty of the Rhine. They
look, out upon the old enemy of England, and are kept
in the finest repair. Upon one of their walls lay for
a long time the famous old cannon, pointing over the
Channel, upon whose breech was written the sentence,
"Keep me dry, and keep me clean,
And I'll carry a ball to Calais green."
The town'itself looks like a poor old man of eighty
years, all whose friends had preceded him to the tomb.
As the rail-car turns the point where you get your first




44             MEN AND THINGS
A steamer.          Royal naines.         Imposition.
sight of the Channel, the shores of France lie in full
view.
We were here hurried on board a miserable steamer
for Calais, built after the very worst fashion of these
vessels in England. It was dignified by some royal
name, and belonged to some royal company, and was
commanded by some captain of her majesty's royal service! Who ever heard of royal names so contemptibly
bestowed! The wind was fresh, and the sea rough.
As soon as we left the shelter of the pier, we were all
drenched by the spray of the short, chopping waves
dashing our bark, and from which there was no possible protection. Soon all were -sick. My worst Atlantic sickness was drinking nectar in comparison to this!
And before we were half seas over, and while yet sweating under the violence of our ejections, a man with a gold
band around his cap stood before me, and demanded,
in true John Bull accent, "Your ticket."  I had paid
in Londor through to Paris; I handed him my ticket.
"Four shillings, sir," said he.  "For what?" said I.
" For your seat in the boat, and for attendance," he replied. " I have paid to Paris, and I have had no attendance," I answered.  " Four shillings-you might
have had attendance if you asked for it," he bluffly replied. As well as a person almost sick unto death
could do it, I found, slowly, four Shillings, and as I
slowly counted them into his hands, I said to him,
" You and your government should be indicted, first,
for such wretched accommodations upon such a thoroughfare; and, next, for your gross impositions."  I
think I was less amiable between Dover and Calais
than I remember to have been during any part of my




AS SE-EN IN EUROPE.             45
Blard skins.      Home feeling gone.     Life picture.
journey. If her majesty's servant was not cut by what
I said, it was not my fault. I put on my sentence the
keenest edge I could; but such officials have usually
a very hard skin. Theirs is the scaly hide of the leviathan. If such extortions were practiced in the United
States, they would be bruited through Europe as
Americanisms.
Until I placed my foot on the quay of Calais, I main.
tained a home feeling, but when I saw men of foreign
aspect all around me, and heard them shouting in a
foreign tongue, the feeling fled. I was in a strange
land! My little French was put immediately into requisition; but the vacant stare, and the " non comprendre" of the Frank soon made me feel that my accent,
or idiom, or both, were at fault. And I returned the
compliment of "non comprendre," when a Frenchman, wishing to do me a service "for a compensation,"
poured a torrent of French into my face. On hearing
a Frenchman speak, it has always seemed to me as if
his words were all connected, without space, comma,
colon, or period to divide them, as if they came out in
a continuous stream, just like a jet of water. But
never did this seem so to me to the same degree as at
Calais, when surrounded by porters, waiters, commissionaires, each anxious to secure the privilege of waiting on you, and on as many others as possible. To have
half a dozen of men bowing to you-talking to youwishing to serve you-recommending a hotel here-a
restaurant there-one asking for your passpdrt-another
ready to fly off with your baggage, and not to understand a word they say, and only able to conjecture what
they wish to do; and then to be at your wits' ends to




46             MEN. AND THINGS
Calais.           Arras.             The raw material.
know where to turn, and ready to die with laughter at
the efforts all around you of the English to speak French,
and of the French to speak English —if this is not a
picture of an American landing from a crazy English
steamer, the remembrance ofwvhich makes him seasick, on the quay at Calais, then my readers may draw
their own pictuere, and to their own liking. However
others felt on that memorable day, I felt that I was
from home!
Calais, which I care not to see again until Victoria
provides a better steamer, until I speak French, or the
people learn English, is a walled town, and strongly
fortified. It looks out upon Dover with jealous eye,
and was for two centuries the key of the British pos.
sessions in France. There we took the cars, and after
slowly winding out of the town, we hastened on our
way through Lille, Douay, Arras, Amiens, and Clermont,
to Paris. The country is level through the whole route,
with scarcely a hillock to break the dull monotony.
Arras, the birth-place of the bloody Robespierre, lives
by wind-mills. As the rail-car made a rapid semicircle
round the city, I strove to count them, but such was the
confusion made by the tossing of their huge arms in the
air, I soon gave it up as hopeless. The lands are well
cultivated, and some places of great beauty occasionally
present themselves to the eye; but the people of the
country seem every where in the raw material. Every
where the women were seen working in the fields, and
in one case'we saw a man and woman drawing a harrow. Papal churches were very numerous, but their
steeples were surmounted by roosters instead of crosses.
Why a rooster?  I would request a certain ecclesiolog



AS SEEN  IN EUROPE.               47
Roosters.       Uniformity desirable.    A good emblem.
ical society, formed some time since in New-York, to
direct their profound investigations to the solution of
this question. Bats, owls, and roosters, I should think,
were very much in their line. There is some difference
between crosses and roosters, and as the latter may
have some reference to the cock whose crowing brought
Peterto repentance, it is a matter of grave rnquiry which
should surmount a steeple.  In this day of emblems
there ought to be an effort at uniformity upon this matter. Some steeples are surmounted by weather-vanes
-some by crosses-some by balls-and, sad to narrate,
one, at least, by a pumpkin! but I am free to confess,
that if they could only crow, and if their crowing would
only have the effect of one of old upon those who trace
their ecclesiastical descent from Peter or Judas, I would
vote for roosters. Besides, a rooster is a most portly
bird, and walks with a proud tread, and a high head,
and quite an air of authority among his barn-yard family; and what better emblem does the world afford of
a modern successor of the apostles? I go for chanticleer versus crosses. I like his archiepiscopal air!
We left London after breakfast in the morning, and
took tea at Paris in the evening, flying from city to
city in twelve hours! Before nine in the evening we
were resting in our rooms in the Hotel Windsor, in Rue
Rivoli, which looks out upon the magnificent garden
of the Tuileries.




48               MEN  AND THINGS
Paris.               Its streets.             First walk.
CHAPTER VIII.
Paris. —Garden or the Tuileries: its Beauty. —Night Walk.-Palais
Royal: its Gardens.-Arbre de Cracovie.-Jardin' des Plantes.Pere la Chaise: its Epitaphs.
PARIS! Paris! of world-wide fame for its splendor,
its palaces, its fashions, its arts, its revolutions, its
wickedness, its rivers of blood, its cooks, and its milliners-I am now in Paris! As it has no environs like
London, you pass at onfce from an open country into a
crowded city. And as you are driven from the depot,
through narrow streets, to your hotel, you are overwhelmed with disappointment, and ask at every turn,
is this Paris?  Many of its most fashionable streets are
as narrow as Nassau Street, in New York; are without
any side walks, paved with round stones, and with a
channel in the centre to carry off the water! In treading your way through them, you have to dodge the
wagons, carriages, and people as you can. And yet
Paris is a magnificent city; but its beauty lies in spots.
I will describe things as I saw them.
After a pleasant night's rest, a little farther from the
earth than would be convenient in case of fire or earth-.
quake, myself and friend sallied out to see sights. Our
first walk was through the garden of the Tuileries from
the palace, through the Place de la Concorde, Champs
Elysees, up, up to the triumphal arch, L'Etoile. Frenchmen say that this is the most beautiful promenade in




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              49
Its beauty.        Night walk.         Palais Royal.
the world. And I have no reason to question it. Starting from the main entrance of the famous old Palace,
whose every window and chamber have their bloody
history, and walking leisurely along through shady
groves, by magnificent fountains, greeted at every turn
by the finest chiseled statuary-with the Madeleine,
and the Palace of Ministers on the one hand, with the
Hotel d'Orsay, the Palais Bourbon, and the Chamber
of Deputies on the other, from which you are separated
by the Seine with its graceful bridges, your emotions
of pleasure increase at every step, until you are overwhelmed. You can do little more than stand, gaze,
and wonder. And beautiful as is this walk by day, it
is still more enchanting by night; when, with the stars
overhead, and every avenue and fountain brilliantly
lighted, and marble men and women gazing upon you
from every mound and from under every tree, and
with the soothing notes of music floating around you
wherever you wander over the vast area of beauty and
magnificence, you feel the magic effect melting you
into sympathy with the scenes around you. I doubt
whether the world can present any thing to be compared in beauty to that portion of Paris which lies between the Palace of the Tuileries and the Triumphal
Arch, that noble monument to the memory of Napoleon the Great.
The Palais Royal is another of the beautiful spots of
Paris. It is said to be to Paris what Paris is to France.
It covers an entire square, built up on -all sides, with
splendid entrances to the enchanting grounds that form
the centre. This palace, with its gardens, courts, galleries, and arcades, is the great central point of pleasure.
C




50             MEN AND THINGS
A changing crowd.    A place of sin.   Jardin des Plantes
In this garden was the celebrated tree-the famous
" arbre de Cracovie"-under whose shade politicians
decided the fate of nations. Every thing here is intended for the gratification of the senses. There is nothing here pure, natural, spiritual-and the uncorrupted
stranger soon wishes himsef away from the intoxicating labyrinth.  Here are restaurants, gambling-rooms,
wine, milliner, and jewelry shops on the most gorgeous
scale. In these gardens may be found, early in the
morning, the tradesmen —at nine, the coffee-houses begin to fill-from twelve to two, the gay world is there
-from two to five, the avenues are crowded with nursery-maids and children-about eight, the women of
the town make their appearance, when every thing is
brilliantly illuminated, and every thing is bustle, gay,
noisy, and intoxicating until twelve, when the crowd
melts away. The Palais Royal presents, on a fine night,
a true picture of the frivolity, luxury, versatility, sensuality, and corruption of the French people. It is a
brilliant spot, and there are but few in the world where
more sin is committed in each twenty-four hours in the
year. It is said to be changing for the better.
The Jardin des Plantes forms another of the great attractions of this great city. Here the taste and science
of Buffon and Cuvier are remarkably displayed. Its
botanic gardens are extensive and most elegantly arranged.  Its cabinets of minerals are on the largest
scale. Its zoological gardens contain every animal
under heaven.. And here are delivered lectures on the
natural sciences, by the most eminent savans, at public
expense, and to about 1800 students, from April to October in each year. This Jardin is the pride of France,




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              51
Beasts protected.                       Pare la Chaise.
and has been alike regarded by Absolutists and Democrats, by monarchs and mobs. When the Terrorists
were daily sending to the guillotine hundreds of men
and women, they ordered the lions, tigers, and hyenas
of the great menagerie to be respected. They treated
them as brethren. And when foreign troops occupied
Paris in 1815, by special agreement, this wonderful
place was protected from injury. I spent more time
in these magnificent grounds and museums than at
any other place in Paris.
I was greatly disappointed in Pere la Chaise. It lies
on a rising ground outside the wall of the city, and contains about 150 acres. It received its name from a
Jesuit priest who once lived there, and was opened as
a cemetery only in 1804. Its main approach is through
an avenue lined on both sides with stone-cutters' shops,
who have marble fashioned in all forms ready for lettering; and with retailers of wreaths, of all colors and
sizes, for the decoration of the tombs of the departed.
These retailers are very importunate in the sale of their
chattels. You enter the grounds by a wide avenue,
but are soon lost among the narrow paths that lead off
in every direction. It is thick with stonies and monuments, so as in many cases to render a passage between them impossible. The elegant tombs are but
few, while the inelegant are in great numbers, and all
of them holding up for perusal " boasting epitaphs," so
as to impress you with the belief that none but the
great, the virtuous, the heroic, and the pious found sepulture there. The tomb of Abelard and Heloise is a
gem of its kind. There is a fine bust of Casimir Perier over his grave, which bears a striking likeness to




52              MEN AND THIINGS
Epitaphs.             Frivolity.             Greenwood.
that of our own lamented Webster.  The grave of 3Marshal Ney, whose murder Wellington might have prevented, and whose not doing so is without excuse, is
shown you, without a stone to tell the stranger whose
ashes repose there.  "Why," I asked the guide, "is
there no monument to Ney Y'  I France is his monument," was the sentimental reply.  We smile at the
simplicity, not to say silliness, of the inscriptions which
are often seen in our own rural grave-yards; but when
you read upon the monuments in Pdre la Chaise such
sentiments as these,;' u'is widowv continues his business, Rue CSaint
Denis, 340."'
1 Very lhiglh, very powerful princess, abged one d(lay"
-one is ready to conclude that there are things to excite a smile out of America as well as in it.
The religion and frivolity of the French are both conspicuous in this far-famed cemetery.  A Popish chapel
is within the gate, where any body may have mass said
" for a compensation."  Crosses are upon the tombs of
both saints and sinners.  And frequently you are attracted by a small group looking through an iron grating into a tomb, where is an altar in the form  of a
lady's dressing table, with vases of flowers, sometimes
natural, more firequently artificial, a gilt lamp, silver
candlesticks, and all the usual et ceteras of a boudoir.
This is French taste.  And people crowd to see those
thin(gs just as they crowd round the windows of taste
and fashion in the Palais Royal.  Save in the splendid
views which you occasio.nally catch frorm its highest
points, Pd-re Ia Chlaise is not to be compared in naturalness, taste, or beauty to Greenwood or MIount Auburn.
It is in every respect inferior to the cemetery at Naples.




AS SEEN  IN EUROPE.                53
NMtre Dame.          Its histories.         Appearance.
CHAPTER IX.
N6tre D].ne.-The Power of the Keys.-A Shaving Shop in a Cathedral.-Hotel Dieu.-A Nun in a Circle.-Vincennes.-A Mistake.
-Blame divided.-The Donjon. —Salle de la Question.-Justice
will come.
I AM not yet out of Paris.
Notre Dame is the Cathedral of Paris-the historic
church of France.  It has its place in the bloody revolutions and persecutions of the country. It is on the
" Isle de la Cite," and of course in the most ancient
part of the city, and is conspicuous byits double Gothic
towers. It was here that " Te Deums" were sung on
the cruel murder of Protestants —-that a courtesan was
crowned as the Goddess of Reason during the frenzy of
the Revolution-and that Napoleon placed the imperial
crown on his own head, and that of Josephine, in 1804,
in the presence of the Pope, and of an assemblage more
brilliant than any Paris ever witnessed before or since.
A star wrought in the marble marks the spot where
he stood on that great occasion.
As you approach this pile of masonry you are struck
with its dingy appearance-its antique bas-reliefs, and
the magnificent circular window between the towers,
said to be thirty feet in diameter. It is French in its
appearance. Various hands and ages have had to do
with it; and it is yet unfinished.  We entered a side
door into the tower, and soon the vast interior was before us. The floor is of marble. There are no seats.




54             MEN AND THINGS
Interior.       Power of the keys.    Robes and relica.
Piles of split-bottom chairs with high backs are on
either hand, which one can hire for a few sous at any
time. On the sides are altars, and candles, and con.
fession boxes; and we saw here and there an old woman or a young servant whispering confessions into
the ear of a priest, whose face, whether from shame or
wine, recalled the color of Burgundy. The grand altar
is shut out from the body of the church by an iron railing, within which you can enter-" for a compensation.". A silver or golden key has great efficacy within
the dominions of Popery. It will open a church, or
chapel, or relic box: it opens the gates of Paradise or
Purgatory., Between the railing and the grand altar
are some magnificent paintings.  On either side of this
altar, but shut out from it, are rooms which contain
treasures and relics. In them we were shown the
splendid robe in which Napoleon was crowned, priestly
robes embroidered with gold, gifts of popes and kings
madae at different times to this old Cathedral, and,
passing from the sublime to the ridiculous, the bullet
which killed Affre, the archbishop of Paris, during the
emeute of 1848!
As we passed round the building, we saw here and
there poor, ragged devotees praying before pictures,
counting their beads, and leaning over chairs. It appeared far more like a heathen than a Christian temple. As we were going out we passed a confessional
where a female was confessing, and two others were
waiting for their turn.  "There is a shaving shop,"
said one of the company in broken English. Startled
by the remark, and by hearing my own tongue, even
in foreign accent, I joined conversation with the per



AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              55
A shaving shop.     Type of Popery.      H6tel Died.
son. "Why call it a shaving shop?" said I. "They
take money from the people for nothing, and seduce
the women," was the reply. I found him to be a French
merchant from New York, who had been brought up
in the Papal Church, and who had seen enough of its
priests to form a true estimate of them.
Notre Dame is inferior to St. Paul's or to Westminster Abbey. It is in an old andcrowded part of the
city, where nothing can be seen to advantage. Although
the laying of its foundations dates back to the fabulous
ages of remote antiquity, it is yet unfinished. It is in
many respects a type of the Romish Church-it lifts
itself high-it has much external pretension-it is dingy and faded-while internally it is empty, and cold,
and damp. We were chilled there on a hot day; it
was pleasant to get out into the air and sunshine.
Underthe shadow of N6tre Dame,is the Hotel Dieu,
the most ancient hospital of Paris, whose foundations
date back to the seventh century. It has been gradually enlarged by public and private benefactions, until it
now contains upward of 800 beds. Here the sick and
wounded are received, with the exception of children,
incurable and insane persons, and those with cutaneous
diseases. The yearly average of patients is 12,000,
and the mortality one in eight. We were taken through
it by an official wearing a chapeau militaire, and whose
step indicated that he had often marched to the tap of
the drum. There is one immense hall with three rows
of beds, nearly all of which were filled with sick men.
Every thing was perfectly netd-the rooms, beds, cooking, washing, waiting. Not an unpleasant odor was
perceptible. Altars, candles, and crucifixes were of



56            MEN AND THINGS
A group.        A nun reading.       Unexpected visit.
fensively numerous. We saw here and there a lazylooking priest confessing the sick; the nuns were numerous. But the sight which most deeply impressed
me was that of a circle of recovering invalids around a
sister, who in a sweet and earnest manner was reading to them from a book. Our approach diverted the
attention of some of them, but the nun read on. I did
not approach near eoough to see the book, or to hear
any of its contents. But it did not look like a Bibleprobably not a copy of it is to be found in the building —
and I suppose she was reading to them from the Lives
of the Saints, that miserable fabrication of lying legends
and old wives' fables, by which the priests would every
where supplant the Word of God. These poor nuns are
every where the dupes of the priests, when they are
nothing worse. The Hotel Dieu bore to us a much
greater resemblance to the house of God than does the
Notre Dame under whose shadow it reclines.
We made' quite an unexpected visit one morning to
Vincennes, outside the wall of the city, and famous in
history as a royal residence, and for its being a prison
of state, and now one of the strongest fortifications in
the-kingdom or empire. We started for Versailles, and
were put down at Vincennes. So much for our bad
French and the roguery of the coacher. He insisted
that we said Vincennes instead of Versailles, and we
thought he lied about it to get our money. But we
also thought, as the fare was paid, the best plan was to
divide the blame-to charge half the mistake to our
French, and the other half to his falsehood, and to act
like heroes. Yet there before us was the Donjon where
the gallant Henry V. of England reigned and died



AS SEEN IN EUROPE.               57
The Donjon.      Salle de la Question.  Spirits waiting.
which was converted into a prison by Louis VI. —where
the Duke d'Enghien was murdered in 1804-where
Polignac, minister of Charles X., was imprisoned in
1830-and where yet is to be seen the " Salle de la
Question," with its fearful bed, upon which men were
tortured during the.application of the "Question."
Heaven only knows the cruelties committed, within that
Donjon, through those long yearm when French kings
perpetrated crimes by "lettres de cachet," which are
a disgrace to humanity. We almost forgive the roguery of the driver, who, to get a shilling out of stran.
gers, took us to Vincennes, as we had thus an oppor.
tunity of gazing upon a place so famous in-history, and
upon that Donjon that has had such a baptism of blood.
It would seem as if the spirits of the multitudes there
murdered were hovering around its turrets, waiting the
arrival of that retributive justice whioh, though slowly,
will surely come.




58              MEN AND THINGS
Versailles.            Its cost.             Workmen.
CHAPTER X.
Versailles. - The Palace.- Picture Gallery.- Chapel. -Theatre.Banqueting Room.-Rwn of Louis XIV.-Room of Death. —Room
where was signed the Revocation of the Edict of Nantz.-The Balcony. - The Gardens. - Whence the Revenues. - Causes of the
Revolution.-Bourbon Dynasty. —Moral Lessons of Versailles.
I aM yet in Paris, and am telling what I saw.
We started again for Versailles, determined this time
to reach it.  We walked to the " Chemin de fer," and
after whirling us around the city, we were dropped in
the heart of the town in half an hour. We met in the
cars a British officer, retired on half-pay, who had been
often there, who spoke the French as a native, and who
kindly offered to take us around the place. So intelligent was he, and so thoroughly conversant with the
town and the palace, that we saw all that was to be
seen in the day, under the very best circumstances.
The town itself is old and decaying, having once had
a population of 100,000, and now reduced to less than
30,000.  But of the palace, what can I say?
It is a monument to the taste, the extravagance, to
the pride and folly of the voluptuous Louis XIV. Some
idea may be formed of its surpassing splendor, of its
buildings, gardens, fountains, waterfalls, statuary, and
paintings, when it is known that it cost about forty
millions sterling, and that 30,000 soldiers, when they
could be spared from the battle-field, were simultane



AS SEEN IN EUROPE.               59
Picture gallery.      Chapel.          Salle de l'Opera.
ously employed on the works! The palace is approached by a very wide avenue, amid statuary, fountains, and
soldiers. At eleven o'clock you gain admittance, and
may wander amid its numberless apartments as you
please. There are the great picture galleries, the finest
in the world, where, in historical paintings, the great
battles of kings, emperors, and republicans are placed
before you. You wander over acres of canvas, glowing
with the finest creations of the great masters, until oppressed by the feelings of pleasure and wonder. There
is the magnificent Chapel, with its gilded furniture,
where royal sinners went to mass; and where royal
courtesans went to confession, and where each could
secure from. a pliant and profligate priesthood pardon
for the past and indulgence for the future. And there,
before that altar, stood the beautiful Maria Antoinette,
when she was'wedded to Louis XVI., in 1769. And
there is the Salle de 1' Opera, where the Bourbon court,
sparkling in jewels and diamonds, and amid the blaze
of ten thousand wax candles, crowded to attend theatrical exhibitions. The stage was now vacant, and I
sat down in the very seat where the beautiful queen
of the Sixteenth Louis, whose tragic end made the world
weep, often reclined, attracting all eyes and hearts to
herself. And this is the very place whither the court
fled for counsel on that fearful hour, when that furious
mob reached the gates, which marched out from Paris
to wreak their vengeance upon their royal oppressors.
And there is the grand Banqueting Room, less than
three hundred feet long, the finest in the world, where
Louis displayed all the grandeur of royalty, and all the
luxury of his times, and where were given the most




60            MEN AND THINGS
Rooms of note.                          The balcony.
splendid f6tes of Europe. But profound quiet had now
succeeded to royal revelry.
Every room in this magnificent royal abode has its
history. There is the very chair and table of Louis
XIV., and in the room where he planned most of his
great wars and battles-where Louis XV. signed the
decree expelling the Jesuits-where his bold and impudent mistress, Du Barri, who died by the guillotine, in
the presence of his ministers snatched from his hands
a package of letters and threw them into the fire; and
where Louis XVI. received the reply sent by Mirabeau,
that the Assembly would not adjourn save at the point
of his bayonets!
And here is the room where Louis the Great died,
bewailing his sins, and terrified, as well he might be,
in view of the judgment; and where Louis XV. died
of small-pox, hated of all men, and with one watcher,
an old woman, who announced his death by the putting out a candle in the window of his room! What a
just termination of a cruel and profligate life!
And here is the room where the infamous Jesuits, La
Chaise and La Tellier, secured the revocation of the
Edict of Nantz. Bloody men of a hated order! God
save us from their wiles!
And there is the balcony, on which I gazed with
emotions of horror, where Maria Antoinette appeared at
the call of the mob which filled the court below, yelling for vengeance. When she was married, a fearful
thunder storm threw Versailles and the surrounding
country into terror-it was regarded as an omen of her
fearful end! And there is the room into which the
mob had broken but a few moments after her escape,




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.               61
Maria Antoinette.   Orangery.      Whence the revenues.
and into whose bed they plunged a hundred daggers.
Her murder is the bloodiest chapter in the bloody his.
tory of the bloody revolution. As I gazed upon that
balcony, I thought I could see her in loveliness, with
her children on either side of her, facing the fury of the
mob, which recoiled for a moment, with a murmur of
admiration, at her presence; and on my return to Paris,
I imagined I could see her spirit hovering over that city,
and crying, in view of the delay of justice, " How long!
O Lord, how long!"
On leaving the palace for the gardens and parks
which lie in the rear, you enter a scene of fairy enchantment which can not be described. Groves, lawns,
serpentine walks, lanes, waterfalls, parterres of flow.
ers, fountains, and statuary, bewilder you with their
number, opulence, beauty, and magnificence. I doubt
whether of its kind there is a sight in the world to be
compared to the view from the wall which surmounts
the orangery in the garden of Versailles.
But whence the immense revenues required to pro.
duce, amid the wild forest, magnificence like this?
The very stables are palaces, and the horses of the Bourbons were better cared,for than the princes of other
lands! And whence the revenues that created and sus.
tained such splendid and profuse royalty? They were
wrung from the peasantry and citizens, who were re.
garded by that bad race of kings as does a farmer his
cattle, who are reared to yield their milk and beef for
his profit! The French people saw and felt how they
were ground to sustain royal profligates and pro*ti,
tutes, and they waited their time of vengeance! The
Revolution was only the effect of the outpouring of




62              MEN -AND THINGS
Causes.          The Bourbon race of kings.  Lessons,
the wrath of the nation, which had been accumulat.
ing for ages under the pressure of the iron heel of despotism. And when men and women seemed equally
savage, it is to be remembered they were equally oppressed. Some of the causes which led to the bloodiest
revolution in the annals of time, you see in the fading
magnificence of Yersailles.
And, were I a Frenchman, there is nothing which
gave a hope of preventing it which I would not do, to
prevent the return of the Bourbon dynasty.  Taken as
a whole, it was a cruel one; with scarcely an exception,
its kings were vain, oppressive, tyrannical, superstitious, lascivious, and cruel. Louis XIV. was the most
regal of them all-the flower of the race. And yet no
right mind can form an acquaintance with his interior history without holding him in royal contempt.
To see him scorning his wife-caressing his mistresses
-sending his favorite of to-day into exile to-morrowliving daily in open debauchery-going to bed at night
with a scapular and crucifix to keep off the devil-rising and dressing amid a silly formalism, the very recital of which fills you with disgust-sipping his coffee
and wine-then going to prayers amid his attendants
-then going to mass amid bishops and cardinals who
were ever singing hosannas to the royal saint —shedding the blood of his people like water, and then dying
amid the horrors which the recollection of his sins and
profligacy could not fail to excite-0, if this was the
flower of the Bourbon race, may France be ever free
fronm their rule, and the world from their example!
The moral lesson and instructions to be learned at
Versailles are very many and very important. The race




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.                 63
The glory departed.
of monarchs that expended millions in its erection are
now banished and detested.  The halls, once crowded
with the great and the noble of Europe, and resounding with their revelry, are now silent.  And those oaken floors, waxed and polished so brightly as almost to
reflect your image, and upon which none but royal or
noble feet were permitted to tread, are now daily trod
by peasants and by strangers from other lands, who
resort there to gaze upon the beauties of art, and the
effects of the creative skill of man.  Versailles is now
only a national gallery!   " Sic transit gloria mundi',"




6(34               tEN  AND  THITNGS
Bastile.            Days of tyranny.           Man of iron inasr.
C HIEAP  T E R XiL
B3astile. —Lettres de Cachet.-Man of Iron iMask. —Columnn of J.ly. —
Eraeute of 1848. — Place de la Concord. — Obelisk of Luxor. —.
Guillotine. —January.lst and October 16th, 1793.-National Assembly Hall. —CIonfision. —-Republicanism dishonored.
ET in Paris.
The Place de la Bastile is one of great historic interest.  it is an open space vwhence many streets radiate, ancd in the centre of which rises the famous Col-,u)mn of oftly.  Here once stood the Bastile, formerly a
famous castle, in which  state  prisoners, arrested by
leItres de cachet,  were confined.  By these "' lettres'"
a man was taken from his family for any or no reason,
and was carried none knew  whither.  They were usually plunged into the cells of this building.   If a man
knew any thing whose revelation might'be injurious to
king, or minister,  or mistress, here  was his home,
XWhat days of tyranny have passed over our world 
Here was confined "'the man with iron miask,  about
whom  so much has been vwritten, and as to whomrr curiosity is yet on tip-toe.  He was treatfed with the highest distinct-ion-was fed by the hand of the chief keeper —vas denied nothiilno he desired-but ever wore an
iron mlask, behind lwhich no eye was permitted to look.
He made, it is said, two efforts to reveal his confinement to the world.  Once he threw  a shirt out of the
window on 0which he had written somnethiugo   It -was
pickedc up by a priest, who took it to the keeper with



AS SEEN IN EUROPE.               65
The shirt.    The plate.    Column of July.  Affire.
out reading what was written.  The priest, lest he
should have read it, was put to death. Once he threw
a silver plate out of the window upon which he had
scratched something. It was found by a peasant and
given back to the keeper. " Have you read what is
here written?" said the keeper. "I can not read," was
the reply. Having satisfied himself that the man could
not read, the keeper dismissed him, saying, "You are
very fortunate in not knowing how to read."  Among
many conjectures in reference to him, some intimate
that he was a twin brother of Louis XIV., and that he
was thus disposed of to prevent civil wars, as the twins
might put in equal claims for the throne. If the true
history of the Bastile could be written, tyranny, treachery, blood, and murder would mark its every page.
It was captured by the people in July, 1789. In
the following year it was demolished by order of the
Assembly, and where it stood now stands the Column
of July, 150 feet high, inscribed all over with the names
of the martyrs of liberty, surmounted by a ball, on
which stands a colossal gilt figure of the Genius of
Liberty, standing on one foot, holding a torch in one
hand and a broken chain in the other, with wings expanded ready to fly away. If it remains there yet,
since the tricks of Louis Napoleon, it must be made of
bronze or of brass.
Here were the strongest barricades of the insurgents
of June, 1848. It was here that the most fearful contest of that emeute took place.  The marks of it are
visible oni nearly all the surrounding houses. And it
was here that Affre, archbishop of Paris, was killed,
attempting to persuade the insurgents to desist. It




66            MEN AND THINGS
Place de la Concorde.   Luxor.           Guillotine.
was on the pavement that surrounds the Monument
that the throne of the Bourbons was consumed.
Between the garden of the Tuileries and the Champs
Elysees, and between the Madeleine and the Chamber
of Deputies, lies the "Place de la Concorde."  It is
beautiful for situation. Thjs was formerly the " Place
de la R6volution." Here stands the magnificent monument of ancient Egypt, the Obelisk of Luxor, which
stood before the temple of Thebes fifteen centuries before the birth of Christ, and which was raised to its present position in 1836, in the presence of Louis Philippe
and his court, and such a crowd as Paris can give for
such an occasion. And here are fountains, and statuary, and magnificence on every hand, to attract your
gaze and call forth your admiration. But, as I walked
over these enchanting grounds, recollections of other
days cama over me. Here was erected the revolutionary guillotine, a machine invented in Italy, and imported into France by a humane physician, Guillotin,
whence. its name, for the purpose of superseding the
inhuman and atrocious methods of taking life. On the
21st of January, 1793, the Bridge de la Concorde, the
terraces of the Tuileries, the parapets on the border of
the river, the tops of all the surrounding houses, the
leafless trees in the Champs Elysees, and all these
open grounds, were densely crowded with an excited
people. A carriage drove up to the guillotine. A man
of noble mien was led out of it.'His hands were bound,
and he was laid on the plank —the blade fell, and the
head of Louis XVI. rolled in the dust! An executioner took it by the hair, and held it up to the view ofthe
bloodthirsty crowd. Cruel Frenchmen jumped on the




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              67
Death of Louis XVI.  Of Maria Antoinette.  Place of blood.
scaffold, and, dipping the points of their swords in the
royal blood flowing around them, and waving them
toward heaven, cried out, "Vive la R6publique!"  O
Franca France!
A fewr months have passed away, and on the 16th
of October of the same year, another and similar
crowd is collected in the same place. An open cart,
used to carry the lowest criminals to death, slowly
makes its way amid hissing crowds of men and women
-the women the most coarse in their abuse-and stops
before the guillotine. A female, with a white gown
soiled and crumpled, with her ringlets fallen over her
face and neck, descends fromr it. Her mouth sorrowfully preserved the folds of royal pride, which no suffering could tame, and which nothing could hide. She
was bound to the plank, and the blade fell-and the
head of Maria Antoinette, the Queen of France, the
daughter of the Emperor Francis I. and of Maria Theresa, rolled away from its body!  The executioner
took it by the hair, and went the round of the scaffold
with it, raising it up in his hand, showing it to the
people, who raised a long, loud cry of " Vive la Republique!" And the most furious in Paris for the life of
this queen, and those who showed the most frantic joy
on her execution, were women. 0 France, France!
And here I was treading the very ground on which
the guillotine stood, where rivers of blood were shed,
and where those scenes, which to this hour shock and
sadden the civilized world, were enacted! And now
it is called Place de la Concorde, and is a place of
enchanting beauty! And yet it is steeped in blood!
From this bloody and beautiful spot, you cross the




.68            MEN AND THINGS
Hall of the National Assembly.   A visit to the Assembly.
Seine by a magnificent bridge, built in part by stone
from the demolished Bastile, and fronting you on the
opposite bank stands the Hall of the National Assembly,
with its Grecian portico and twelve Corinthian columns. With an embassador's ticket I entered it from
the rear, and was shown by officials to the gallery to
which such tickets give admission. The Assembly
wds in full blast. Dupin sat as president, a large, full
man, with semi-bald head, full face, and more English
than French in appearance. Behind him sat two men,
for what purpose I did not learn. They helped him to
keep order! A little stand, the tribune, like to a chorister's desk in a Scotch church, was before him. And
on the seats, rising from the centre on all sides, amphitheatre like, sat the members. They were numerous,
and gentlemanly in appearance. Every speaker went
to the tribune. A deputy ascended, buttoned to his
chin, gloved, and brushed in true French style. He
spoke calmly, and showed his gloves to perfection. The
point in debate was about some duty on sugar. He
uttered a sentence with force, and a cry was heard from
a deputy, and another, and another; and soon the house
was in a perfect uproar. The orator folded his gloved
hands on his bosom, and stood calm, as if made of
marble, until the tumult subsided. He went on again,
and soon the storm returned with fourfold violence.
Members shouted, jumped to their feet, and brandished
their arms in the air. I supposed there was to be a
fight at once. Again the speaker stood quiet, and
again the storm subsided. He resumed again, and the
storm howled with still greater fury. Dupin hammered
the desk, the men above him ringing a bell; and such




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.               69
A storm.        Cavaignac.       Republicanism disgraced.
a Babel, for fifteen or twenty minutes, I never saw before or since. The man descended from the tribune,
and the vote was taken; and as they passed to and fro,
voting, talking, and scolding, they seemed to me the
most excitable set of human beings that ever was created. To this excitement there were some exceptions.
The ministers of Louis Napoleon, who sat near the
centre of the room, and on the lowest seats, moved not.
Nor did Cavaignac, a man of middle stature, serious
aspect, simple dress, who sat thoughtful among his
brethren.
If this was their usual way of legislating, I did not
wonder when Louis Napoleon sent them home. One
master is better than a million such, even when that
master is "the nephew of his uncle."  Many heads
sometimes make a hydra —of which there is some
proof in American as well as French history. The
French Assembly disgraced Republicanism in Europe.
France has no religion and no fixed principles, and as
long as the alternative is between socialism and despotism, no man who has any thing at stake will long
hesitate as to his choice. My sense of shame, because
of the scenes which occasionally disgrace our legislative chambers at Washington, was somewhat relieved
by my visit to the National Assembly. If the American people only knew the use which is made abroad
of the vulgar and shameful conduct of some of our senators and representatives in our halls of legislation, to
prop up despotic institutions, and to bring republicanism into contempt, they would prevent our brawlers
from disgracing our country by voting them the privilege of staying at home.




70              MEN AND THINGS
Sabbath in Paris.'  Madeleine.       View from its portico.
CHAPTER XII.
Sabbath in Paris.-Madeleine.-Toupet.-The Interior.-Le Suisse.
-Appearance and Duties.-A Funeral.-A young Couple at Mass.
-Sights Seen.-High Mass.-Bad Influence of Popery on Paris.
A SABBATH day spent in Paris, where there is no
Sabbath set apart to the service of God by the people,
is not easily forgotten by a Protestant! And it is impossible so to describe it as to make a person who never witnessed it fully to comprehend it. Popery in
Papal countries knows no Sabbath; in Paris it has converted it into the harvest day of play-actors, shop-keepers, restaurants, buffoons, and mountebanks.
The Madeleine is an exquisite building, Grecian in
its form and proportions. It was designed by Bonaparte as a Temple of Glory to the French arms, but is
now a Papal Church. It is surrounded on all sides by
fifty-two Corinthian columns, and is lighted entirely
from above. It is both externally and internally gorgeously decorated by sculpture and paintings, and has
cost nearly three millions of dollars. It is the most
gorgeous and fashionable place of Papal worship in the
city. From its southern portico a view of great beauty
lies before you, as your eyes wander with delight over
the Place de la Concorde, the bridges over the Seine,
and the hall of the National Assembly.
Desirous to see the practical workings of Popery, I
visited this building many times. On entering it from




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.               71
Toupet.             The interior.          Le\Suisse.
the southern porch, you are soon arrested by a railing
with a- gate in the centre of it. At this gate stood the
most dry, wrinkled, and insignificant looking person I
ever saw in' the form of a man, holding at the end of a
short handle a brush wet with holy water. He was
very old, very ugly, with a nose twice as long as necessary, very small, very stupid-looking, and with a cap
on his head rising like a sugar-loaf. He is called, I
believe, the " Toupet," from his holding out the brush.
The faithful, as they enter, most daintily touch the
brush with their gloved fingers, and cross themselves.
This, of course, I declined; and the little fellow's eyes
seemed for a moment to assume an expression of fear
that I might be an unbeliever in the sanctifying efficacy of touching his brush. If I were -called upon to
draw the picture of an incarnate male witch, I would
select for my model the Toupet of the Madeleine.
After passing the door guarded by the above relic of
antiquity, you are surrounded by splendid paintings
and statuary. The high altar is before you; confession
boxes and altars are on either hand; there are no pews
or seats; and if you wish to sit or pray, you can have
a split-bottom chair for a few sous, which are piled up
on all sides. Youir attention is soon arrested by the
stately movements of another official, called "Le
Suisse." Ite was in every respect a fine contrast to
the Toupet. He was at least six feet two, with broad
shoulders, and dressed as a field-marshal. He wore a
chapeau militaire, side-arms, white tights, gloves, and
carried an immense halbert in one hand, and an immense cane in the other. He seemed the most selfsatisfied being I ever saw. He goes all over the house




72             MEN AND THINGS
His appearance.         Marriage.           Funeral.
at pleasure, and stands by the altar, even when the
priest is making God out of a wafer, without any apparent reverence. When all others are uncovered and
on their knees, this official walks about as stately as
ever, without even a nod of respectto host or priest.
This fine-looking fellow, that I first supposed to be some
famed general or commodore come hither to make a
votive offering to Mary or Mars, is a mere servant, who
leads the priests to the altars and leads them away;
who makes way for the monkls or priests through the
crowd when taking up colleqtions; who stands godfather for all children baptized who have no fathers; and.
who says "Amen" at funerals when there are none
else to respond. I nevqr before saw so big a man engaged in such small business. And yet he threw all
the priests in the shade, attracting to himself the attention of all strangers. If I had the ear of the priests,
I would advise them to dismiss that stately " Suisse" if
they wish strangers to notice themselves or their pantomime. I would know him if I met him in the moon,
while the priests, like sheep or geese, seemed all alike.
I went to the Madeleine several times during the week.
I witnessed a marriage at one of its altars, and a funeral at another. I was there when the poor and when
the fashionable go to mass. And the more frequently
I went, the more I was impressed with the utter heartlessness of Popery. A coffin made of very disjointed
boards, kept together by ropes, was brought in and laid
before an altar. After some time the Suisse came
clattering along with the priest behind him. A ceremony was mumbled hurriedly over, of which I could
not hear a word but the response of the knight of the
halbert, and then the poor people took away their dead!




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.               73
Mass and musk.     Frivolous alternation.  The streets.
A spruce young couple came to mass, smelling strongly
of musk, as I can testify. The young lady knelt on
the bottom of a chair, hid her face for a few moments,
and then, yet kneeling, commenced a talk with her
friend, who stood, hat and cane in hand, by the chair.
And thus they spent some twenty minutes —she alternately praying, talking, and laughing, and the man,
when she was praying, looking with an opera-glass
upon the persons and things around him. And this is
the manner of the fashionable Parisians at mass. It
is. a frivolous alternation of giggle and praying, of praying and giggle, which proves beyond all question the
utter absence of the mind and heart from the service.
On Sabbath morning the sun rose warm, and without a cloud, over the city of Paris. I felt I was from
home, and in a Papal country.  After breakfast, and
worship with a few friends in an upper room, we went
to the Madeleine to witness high mass. As we went
along the Rue Rivoli, masons were at work on the
streets and public buildings, supervised by an officer in
livery; shops were every where open, and more attractively decorated than usual; soldiers were marching and counter-marching along the streets, and across
the Place de la Concorde, and in nothing did the town
differ from the other days in the week, save in the
gayer dress of the people, the greater appearance of
finery in the shops, the greater number of purchasers,
the increased number of soldiers, and the more densely
crowded state of all the fashionable promenades. We
made our way to the church.
As we approached its splendid southern portico, people were coming out in considerable numbers, while
D




74             MEN AND THINGS
Mass.            A farce.          Paris made by Popery.
others were entering. We entered, passed the Toupet,
whose skin looked as if it was borrowed from a mummy, and hired chairs. Mass soon opened, and the
drama was acted very well. The bishop and priests
were in full attire; twice, followed by priests shaking
their boxes, did the stately Suisse parade the entire
church, asking alms from the people. And amid the
noise of his cane, halbert, and heels upon a marble
floor; of the changing of money to pay for the chairs
occupied by the people; of the jingling of their boxes
by the priests, to give notice of their approach; of the
ringing of bells from the altar; of the deep tones of the
noble organ, which swelled one after another through
the ample building; of the talking of the young, and
of the whispering of strangers, of whom there seemed
to be many, the reader may judge of the wership we
were enabled to render to Him who requires his creatures to worship Him in spirit and in truth. Candles,
statuary, painting, priests dressed in the most gorgeous
style of man-millinery, were there in profusion'; but
there were no religious emotions, no worship of God,
no religious instruction. And we retired from the gorgeous scene, feeling that, if that were the worship
which the High and Lofty One required from intelligent creatures, God and religion were both a farce.
No wonder that a religion, of which this is the highest
style, does so little to instruct the people, or to render
Paris a moral city. The judgment' day will reveal
how much of the blood that has so often deluged this
city-how much of its crimes and dissoluteness-how
much of the influence for evil which it exerts on Europe and on the world, will be found on the skirts, and
required at the hands of Popery and its priests.




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.                 75
Pleasant meeting.                        Wesleyan Chapel.
CHAPTER  X I II.
A pleasant Meeting in the Madeleine.-WTesleyan Chapel.-The Service.-," Clothes." —Minister for Paris.-Prayer-meeting.-Sabbath
Evening Walk.- Sights seen.-Reasons for French Character.The Riddle solved.-A Look at St. Germain. —A Prayer.
I APTr yet describing a Sabbath in Paris.
When the mummery of high mass in the Madeleine
was drawing to a close-when the Suisse, with military tread and martial air, commenced, for the second
time, making a pathway for the priests who followed,
rattling their boxes, and asking for money, we rose to
depart.  We gave once, and did not care to pay again,
even for such magnificent nonsense.  On turning round
we were most happy to meet an honorable judge and
honored Christian from Pennsylvania, with his reverend
son-a clergyman from Boston, and a gentleman from
Providence.  Although  comparatively strangers, we
soon felt that we were friendls.  Were it not for this
casual meeting, I might not have seen Rome.  How
sweet to meet Christian friends and fellow-citizens in
a foreign land!
At twelve, we went together to the Wesleyan Chapel
in the Rue 2Madeleine, and almost under the shadow
of the splendid church which we had just left.  We
entered by a narrow alley.  The room is small, but it
was well filled, and mostly with men.  Soon a man of
good appearance, of comparative youth, and of serious
aspect, entered the pulpit, and without robes.  His ace




76             MEN AND TRINGS
Episcopal service.       Clothes.          A sermon
cent was strongly English. The Episcopal service was
read by him from the beginning to the end, just as I had
heard it in St. James's, Westminster, with'the prayers
" for our beloved Queen Victoria, her royal consort
Prince Albert," the royal children and all. The whole
thing struck me strangely. Why these prayers in
France for England's royal family? Why this slavish
use of the prayer-book by a Methodist clergyman in
Paris? And never did I see so much the need of robes
on the minister, and responses from the people, to make
the formulary of the prayer-book tolerable. When
well read, and with hearty responses, I have been edified by it; but on this occasion it was oppressive. The
constant repetition of the same forms, as Carlyle would
say, " needs clothes" to render them tolerable. Without gowns, responses, and frequent down-sittings and
up-risings, the prayer-book would be soon laid aside.
So I judged from the effect of its naked and unvaried
perusal upon myself on this occasion. But " clothes"
are essential to the continuance of many other things
as well as the Prayer-book.
The minister preached from the thirtieth chapter of
Isaiah, and the thirty-third verse, a sermon on the doctrine of future punishment. It struck me as a most inappropriate and feeble effort. The room was filled with
strangers from Britain and America, and who went
there from the husks of Popery to be fed with the Gospel. Many, I know, were disappointed. And yet, inappropriate and feeble as was the effort, and destitute as
was the preacher of emotion, the service was incomparably better than the hocus pocus, in all its gorgeous drapery, which we had just witnessed in the Madeleine.




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.             77
Preacher at Paris.   Prayer-meeting.      A walk.
The importance of a first-rate American preacher of
the Gospel in Paris can not be too highly estimated.
Such is now the facility of transatlantic travel, that
the number of those must be constantly on the increase
who will seek their summer recreations in Europe.
And a noble preacher, of fervent heart and piety, meeting such in Paris, would be to them as a stream in the
desert, as the shadow of a great rock in a weary land.
Why is not such a minister of God there?
Before we left the Wesleyan Chapel, we projected a
service of our own; and at four o'clock we met in the
Hotel Windsor, in a private room, for reading the Scriptures and for prayer. The number which met in the
Madeleine was increased by the addition of the Rev.
Dr. C. and his three fine boys. A more pleasant meeting I never attended. There we were in a foreign land,
surrounded by people of a strange tongue, some of us
away from our people, and all of us from our families
and homes, and in the midst of a people proverbially
estranged from God. And the word of the Lord was
sweet to our taste; and we prayed, weeping, for our
people, our families, our home. That meeting for
prayer in Paris on the Sabbath afternoon will hot be
soon forgotten by any that iwere there!
As the light of the Sabbath's sun commenced waning
in the sky, ard when the mild, balmy air of evening
had succeeded to the rather oppressive heat of the day,
we went forth to see for ourselves the way in which
the Sabbath evening is kept in Paris. We went from
the palace of the Tuileries, through its garden, and the
Place de la Concorde, and the Champs Elysees. Thence
we turned into the Boulevards, and through the Rue




78            MEN AND THINGS
Sights.         No Sabbath.        The Sabbath a type.
Richelieu home. And such sights I never beheld! It
would seem as if all Paris had turned into the streets.
Here were soldiers marching in platoons; there was
ballad-singing under a canopy, surrounded by people
sitting on benches and sipping wines and ices. Here
were elegantly dressed girls dancing; and there was a
crowd collected around gamboling monkeys. Here was
a man selling trinkets at auction, and there were gambling tables. Here were a few women going to church,
and there were crowds of men and women rushing to
the theatre and opera. The Boulevards were densely
crowded; the shops were all open —their windows surrounded by admiring spectators; and at short intervals
the sidewalks were covered with tables, around which
men and women sat, in the open air, regaling themselves with wines and confectionery. Occasionally you
would come to a stand in the Champs Elysees where
men were playing all kinds of mountebank tricks, surrounded by hundreds of admiring spectators. The restaurants seemed crowded by men, women, and children.
Not a vestige of evidence to remind you of the Sabbath
was any place apparent. The whole route taken through
the city wore the appearance of a Fourth of July in
New York, when booths were allowed around the Park.
The proof was positive that Paris at least has no religion.
And it is very remarkable to what an extent the manner in which the Sabbath is kept is a type of the moral
Qharacter of a people, and of a man. A Parisian Sabbath is as certain an index to the character of the
French, as is a Sabbath in Edinburgh to the character of the Scotch.
After visiting its churches during the day, and tak



AS SEEN IN EUROPE.               79
The Church's work.       Frivolity.         A riddle..
ing the walk above described on Sabbath evening, you
no longer wonder at the character which Paris has in
all the earth.  The wealth of the Church is spent in
fostering the arts; the labors of the clergy are expended in vain ceremonies; there is no instruction from the
pulpit; and all the efforts of the priests are directed,
not to enlighten the people in the knowledge of God,
not'to purify:the heart, but to gratify the senses. A
church is more or less attractive according to its wealth,
its pictures, its statuary, or its relics in the way of old
bones from the catacombs of Rome or Naples. And
people resort to them, not to worship God, but in accordance to custom, or as they would resort to an
opera or to an exhibition of the arts. The frivolous
character of the religion of France is obvious even amid
their most solemn ceremonials; for I have seen the
women on their knees during the elevation of the host,
praying, laughing, talking; now turning their eyes on
the ground; now raising them most piously on a picture; and now turning them laughingly on their lovers or friends, without ever changing their kneeling
position!
French character is a riddle. You meet the French
in the garden of the Tuileries, gay, joyous, with hearts
light as down, and in the Champs Elysees, as full of fun,
frolic, and dance as you can-conceive.  So polite are
they, that in cases where an Englishman would pass
on without uttering a word, they will turn upon you
with hat off, bowing most reverently, and asking a
thousand pardons. You would not, you could not, impute to them  any thing but a joyous, polite, and refined character; and yet to-morrow those very persons,




80             MEN AND THINGS
What a change!        Why?            St. Bartholomew.
men and women, may be furies, covered with scars,
ragged, half naked, caring neither for God or man,
carrying a rapier in one hand and a tri-colored flag
in the other, and wading ankle deep in blood, to gratify their thirst for more.  They will raise barricades-scale walls-face cannon-demolish prisonsburn thrones, churches, or palaces- guillotine kings
and queens, and shed their own blood like water, to
indulge the excitement of the hour. And why thus?
Why so refined, polite, sympathizing one day, and so
demoniacal the next? The French are morally uneducated.  Sentiment, passion, the outward, are every
thing with them. They are versatile, inflammable,
and atheistic in the undertone of their opinions. Popery is an overcoat to put off or on as suits the hour.
And when their passions are up, there is no great principle to guide them; there is nothing in time or eternity to fear; and they rush on like a raging tornado,
blind as the winds. With the religious training and
principles of Scotland, the French would be the noblest
people on the globe. The grand want of France is religion, and, this is a want which Popery can never
supply.
On my Sabbath evening stroll through Paris, I
stood for a few minutes before the church St. Germain
l'Auxerrois. As I gazed upon its belfry, my thoughts
recurred to that dreadful period, the 23d of August,
1572, when its bell gave the signal for the awful massacre of St. Bartholomew, and tolled the death-knell
of the Protestants of France through the whole night,
while the hired assassins of court, bishops, and priests
were butchering Coligny and his fellow-Protestants!




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.                81
Blood crying to heaven.
With a shudder of horror, I turned away from the sight
and went home. 0 Popery, the blood of the millions
thou hast slain is pleading against thee before the
throne of eternal justice! False in principle, fanatical
in spirit, and ferocious in- heart, may the Lord soon
destroy thee with the brightness of his rising!
D 2




82             MEN AND THINGS
A diligence.                           Swung off and on.
C-HAPTER XIV.
Exit frbm Paris.-A Diligence.-Beaune. —Chalons.-Abelard and
Heloise.-Face of the Country.-French Villages.-The Peasantry.-The Saone.-Ladies' Dress.-Old Habits retained.-American Peculiarity.-A Digression.
HAVING spent what time we had to spare in Paris,
we started for Italy by the way of Lyons and Marseilles.
We were packed into a diligence at the Messageries
G6n6rales, Rue St. Honore.  This is a traveling concern which can scarcely be described to a person that
has not seen it. It contains four kinds of places-the
coupe in front, the'best and dearest; the int6rieur, or
middle apartment; the rotonde, or hinder; and the
banquette, on the top of the vehicle. The seats are
all numbered, and your receipt informs the conducteur
where to place you. Thus all scrambling for seats is
prevented.  It will hold fifteen or twenty persons.
There is any amount of baggage on the top. It is a
far more comfortable conveyance than any would take
it to be at first sight. In one of these coaches we were
driven out of the city to the railway dep6t, when it
was swung bodily from the wheels by a crane, and
placed on the railway car, all retaining their seats. We
were yoked to the iron steam-horse, and away we went
through a level country, the beautiful woods and village
of Fontainebleau, to Tonnerre, then the terminus of
the "chemin de fer." There we were again swung on
to the wheels of a coach, and yoked to two tier of horses,




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.               83
Beaune.             Its history.           Chalons.
three abreast; we trundled along at the rate of six or
seven miles an hour, day and night, to Beaune. We
were dropped a little after daylight at, I presume, the
best hotel in the town; but every thing looked so uncared-for that I called for eggs. If fresh, I knew they
would be clean. After as much of breakfast as surrounding circumstances would permit us to take, we
spent a few hours in viewing the old town.  Here is
the noble hospital of Nicholas Rollin, once chancellor
to the Duke of Burgundy; here, also, is a college,
which seemed neglected; here are strong ramparts,
planted with trees, which form a magnificent promenade; but the chief celebrity of the town is owing to
its being the centre of trade in the wine to which it
gives its name, which is a species of the Burgundy.
Julien says that the wines of Beaune have the justly
acquired reputation of being "le plus francs de gouit
de toute la Bourgogne."
By railway we proceeded from Beaune to Chalons,
on the Saone, which we reached in a short time. This
was for many years the capital of the ancient kingdom
of Burgundy, and is yet a place of considerable business. The streets seemed dirty, and the place looked
as if it might be unhealthy. It is low, marshy, and
the country very level. It was here the famous Abelard died in 1142, whose varied and romantic history
is yet a subject of interest to the world. His intrigues
with Heloise show to what an extent passion and religion, faith and falsehood, love and monkery, were
mixed and mingled in the lives of the ecclesiastics of
the Middle Ages. Heloise begged his body after his
death, and had it buried in her own monastery, with




84             MEN AND THINGS
Abelard and Heloise.             Appearance of the country.
the view of reposing in death by his side. In 1800
the ashes of both of them were removed to the Museum
of French monuments at Paris, and the exquisite monument in Pre la Chaise is erected to both of them, as
the martyrs of love! At Chalons we took a steamer
down the Saone to Lyons.
In this ride from north to south we had a fine opportunity of seeing the country portions of France. In
the main, the face of the country. is very level, and is
well cultivated. The people live in villages, and neither
horses nor cattle.tare seen dispersed over the country, as
in Britain or with us. If now and then you see a cow
feeding by the wayside, it has always an attendant to
keep it within bounds. There are no fences to be seen
any where; and lines of trees,'running for miles without deviating from a straight line, constantly present
themselves, until the eye is weary of seeing them.
Where nothing richer can grow, the vine is sure to be
planted. The hills are all vine-clad, and are often
prettily terraced for its cultivation.  The vines are
planted about as far apart as are our hills of corn: the
old stump seemed only a foot or two high, and the
branches from the stump are only permitted to grow
four or fivre feet long. Thus the strength of the tree is
thrown into the fruit, instead of being permitted to expend itself in the production of long branches and many
leaves. Vineyards thus cultivated were every where
to be seen. They ran up the sides of the most steep
acclivities, and capped the summit of the highest hills.
Because they can stick a vine any where, the entire
surface.of the country is producing something.
The villages through which we passed present a very




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.                85
tillages.           The peasantry.           Fine sail.
strong contrast to our American villages.  The streets
are so narrow as often to make it impossible for two
carriages to pass one another.  The houses are built
directly on the street, without door-yard or pavement
in front.  Sometimes the horses are eating on the first
floor, while you are dining or supping on the second.
And the air of neatness, cleanliness, comfort, which
is worn by our best American villages, is generally absent from those of France.
The peasantry also seemed uncultivated, and in a
low state of civilization.  Women were every where
working in the fields, and were doing all kinds of
manai  labor. And all along a canal, on the borders
of which we traveled many miles, men were drawing
the boats. The -,women seemed to be doing the work
of men, and men the work of horses.  In countries
which support large standing armies, the men are
needed for arms, for the deadly breach, as food for the
cannon; hence the cultivation of the country must,
of necessity, devolve upon women, if it is done at all.
And, as we shall narrate by-and-by, we have seen men
directing gangs of women in the field, as it is said
drivers superintend gangs of negroes in some of our
Southern plantations.  When there, France was a republic, and yet soldiers were met every where.  The
people willed a republic, and legions of armed men
were needed to induce the people to respect it! What
a riddle are the French people [
The sail down the Saone to Lyons was very fine.
The steamers on these rivers are very narrow and very
long, and with very little to interrupt a promenade
from stem to stern. We stopped at many places to




86           -MEN AND THI:NGS.
Singular dress.                   Attachments to forms.
give out and take in passengers, which was done
adroitly and rapidly. At one place we took on board
several females with head-dresses which excited 4he
wonder of those of us who were travelers and strangers.
Their bonnets I then likened to a large circular mat
with a thimble placed on the centre of it. The thimble was placed over the head, and the leaf was tied on
by very wide and gorgeous ribbons. Their nether garments were very short, and their shoes quite in the masculine order. I asked the captain who these strang&looking persons were, who told me that they were very
respectable ladies of the place, wearing the dress8eculiar to that locality.
There is nothing which strikes an American traveler
in Europe more strongly than the attachment to old
hiabits, fashions, and forms every where visible. The
guides through the Tower of London are dressed as
harlequins. The Lord Chancellor of England is buried
in an enormous wig, with sleeves. The advocates pleading in court must wear their gown and wig. Welchwomen wear hats like men. The people in many of
the departments of France are distinguished by their
dresses. They will tell you in Rome to what village
the people from the country belong by the fashion of
their garments. Mountains, and rivers, and often
imaginary lines divide kingdoms, nations, an& tongues.
On one side of a river you find one set of customs; on
the other, a very different set. On one side of a mount.
ain you hear the Italian; on the other, the German,
or the French, or a patois peculiar to the people. The
British ChanneLis some twenty miles wide, and how
different the people, the language, the religion on either




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.               87
Speedy changes      Evil distinctions.    Digression.
side of it. In a few hours you may fly from Liverpool
to Wales and to the Isle of Man, and these hours
bring you among a people who speak the English, the
Welsh, the Manx languages. This all seems singular
to us, who can travel from east to west, and from north
to south, over a country tisands of miles in extent,
and find among all our people the same language,
customs, and habits. These distinctions tend to.keep
up old jealousies, to foster prejudices, to- retain -the -di.
viding lines of races and religions, and thus to obstruct
the march of civilization and Christianity. They form
strings upon which kings, princes, and priests can play
so as to suit their own purposes. The people of Europe
need to be shaken together, and to' be' kept together
long enough, as it were in some chemical retort, in
which they would lose their peculiarities, and from
which they would come forth one people. The great
peculiarity of our country is that we take all the varying people from all the varying nations of Europe, and
cast them into our mill, and they come out in the grist,
speaking our language, Americans and Protestants.
-What a digression, caused by those curiously drased
women seen on our way from Chalons to Lyons!




88              MEN  AND THINGS
Down the Saone.            Lyons.              Its site.
CHAPTER XV.
The Saone.-Lyons: its Appea;ce —its History.-Peter de Vaud.
-Revolutionary Scenes.-Precy.-Couthon.-Collot d'Herbois.Horrid Murders by Jacobins.-Festoons of Human Limbs.-Anecdote of Dr. Nesbit.-Fouche.-Death an eternal Sleep.-The Mob,
the most fearful of all Governments.
THE sail down the Saone from  Chalons is a very
pleasant one. The banks of the river have a quiet
beauty; towns are frequent; magnificent'bridges frequently span its current; you catch occasional views
of the Alps; and, as you approach Lyons, its waters are
pressed into a narrow channel, rocks rise on either
hand, you shoot through a narrow gorge, pass under
the hills of Fauvieres and Sainte Foi, and are soon
landed -upon the quays of the " City of Silks."  The
approach to it by the Saone is very fine-" magnificent," was the exclamation of one of our party.  We
putup at the Hotel l'Univers, where we care not to
lodge again until the fare is a little more in keeping
with the charges. They sustain to each other an inverse ratio.
This greatest silk factory of the world, arid the second city of France, is on the tongue of land formed by
the junction of the Saone and the Rhone, and on the
precise spot where soil, fuel, climate, water, and facility
of communication furnish the elements of a great city.
Both rivers are spanned by bridges of the most solid
masonry. The city is crowded-dirty; and its narrow




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.                89
Its history.          De Vaud.             Terrorists.
streets,-paved with small stones, are often very offensive.
The rivers and mountains hem in the population; and
the streets, in some places, rise so perpendicularly
against the hills as to seem like ladders. There are
some fine squares, one of which, Bellecour, with a
statue of Louis XIV., is said to be one of the grandest
in Europe. It did not so impress us.
It was not the noble warehouses that line the rivers,
nor its world-famed factories, but its histories, that
deeply interested me. Lyons was the Lugdunum of
the Romans, and was the scene of the great labors of
the Christian Irenaeus. It was the scene of a fearful
persecution against the Christians under Marcus Aurelius, who were here murdered until men became weary
of bloodshed. Their murdered bodies were burned,
and their ashes cast into the rivers, that there might be
nothing of them left to disgrace the world! This was
the residence of Peter de Vaud, that eminent confessor
of the Middle Ages, who gave his name to the Waldensian Christians, who from the cdlys of the apostles
have kept the pure light of truth burning in the valleys
of the Alps. This was a scene of vast suffering during
the religious wars of the sixteenth century, when, in
the murder and banishment of the Huguenots, France
east from her bosom the purifying salt. Since then,
morally, it has been a festering mass of corruption.
But the revolutionary scenes which were here enacted
reached the very sublime of cruelty.,he citizens, in self-preservation, arrayed themselves
in opposition to the Terrorists of Paris —Robespierre,
Danton, and Marat. Under the command of Precy,
they made a most determined resistance, and endured




90            MEN AND THINGS
D'Herbnis.            Jacobins.            Blood
an awful siege. After the most heroic acts and endurance, Precy fled, and Couthon entered the city at the
head of the army of the Convention. And soon there
commenced a scene of cold, ruthless carnage, from
which the mind and heart shrink with horror. Collot
d:'Herbois, a low actor who was hissed from' the stage,
and whose vanity was turned into ferocity by the insult-Fouch6, who gave up the pursuit of the priesthood for turmoil and intrigue —and Dorfeuille, became
the leaders of the Jacobins. Every body, man, woman,
and child, suspected of royal leanings, or of sympathy
with Precy, was placed on the proscribed list. The
city was given up to demolition. Prisons were crowded. A permanent scaffold was erected in front of the
town hall, where executions were continued for ninety
days without interruption. Sand was scattered on the
streams of human blood every evening, which, by the
constant trampling of the people, thirsting to see their
fellow-citizens die, became a red and fetid mud, which
soon covered the square and reeked in the air! When
this could not be longer endured, the scaffold was placed
over a sewer, into which the streaming blood ran, and
was carried into the Rhone. And when the executions
increased, like the pulsations of an inflamed body, the
scaffold was placed in the centre of the Pont Mlorand,
over the river. The flowing blood was swept into the
river, and the headless bodies and bodiless heads were
cast over the parapets of the bridge into the " arrowy
Rhone!"  The very washerwomen had to move up'the
stream to prevent their clothes from being stained.
The victims were generally the young men of the city
and surrounding country, whose age was their crime.




AS SEES IN EUROPE.               91
Horrid festoons.       A scourge.          Anecdote..
But even this wholesale butchery was not sufficiently
rapid to gratify the thirst of the Jacobins for the blood
of "the aristocrats."  They were tied together in companies, led across the bridge into the low lands on the
opposite banks of the Rhone, placed in a straight line,
and then moweddown by cannon! The mangled. bodies of men were hung upon the trees which surround
the square Bellecour, and festoons of limbs were extended from tree to tree all around, for the purpose of
teaching the people the power and the vengeance of
the Convention, of which Robespierre was no'w the
head..
And;here I was, walking over the square once covered with.that red and fetid mud, and under the trees
once festooned with human limbs, and standing on
the bridge where the guillotine did such fearful execution, and looking over upon the low plain of the Brotteaux, wheYe those scenes of horror were enacted —men
placed in rows before the devouring cannon! It was
here the anger of the Revolution rose up to the power
of a divine scourge.
After a recital like this, no person will find fault with
the following anecdote told of Dr. Nesbit, as famous for
his keen and ready wit as for his profound scholarship.
He was at a dinner-party in Philadelphia during the
progress of the French Revolution, when the recently
received news from Europe was the, engrossing topie
of conversation. Several politicians of the Jefferson
school were there, strong in their sympathies with
French Republicanism. The Doctor was silent for some
time.  On being asked his opinion, he gave it thus:
" I had," said he, in his broad Scotch occent, " a queer




92   -. MEN AND YIINGS
Hell emptied.      Fouche.          Defenses of the right.
dream last night. I dreamed I died, and went to hell.
I went to the door and knocked, but nobody came to
open it.  I knocked again and again, but nobody
came. After knocking a good while, the old de'il himself came to the door and asked what I wanted. I
told him I wanted to enter hell.  Go your way, said
the old fellow, slamming the door in my face, I can
not let you in; I have nobody to take care of you, for
all the other de'ils are gone to help carry on the French
Revolution."
Surely it would-seem as if such men as D'Herbois,
Fouche, DorfeuillejRobespierre, Danton,Chalier, DuboisCrance, so utterly destitute of all feelings of humabnity, so
utterly demoniacal in disposition, so cool in their cruelties, must have been natives of Pandemonium. Impiety
with them was patriotism; cruelty was love of liberty;
their love for the poor they showed by the murder of
the rich, and proclaimed that the French people recognized no law or authority but those of their soivereignty
and omnipotence! It was the human butcher Fouch6,
according to Lamartine, who ordered a figure of Sleep
to be placed over the gates of the cemeteries, with this
inscription: " Death is an eternal sleep." Surely, in
his case, the desire must have been the father of the
thought, for who would not prefer annihilation to a
resurrection with the blood of murdered thousands
clamoring for vengeance, and to the scrutiny of an unerring and omnipotent Judge, who will by no means
clear the guilty!
What scenes of fearful violence have been perpetrated on our globe! There is no safety for the right,
the true, the good, but in the maintenance of law and




AS SEEN  IN EUROPE..93
The mob, worse than plagues. -
order. If these can be maintained with free institu.
tions, well; if not, let them be maintained with whatever institutions. A bad king is a bad thing; but a
ruthless mob, with no reason but passion; yielding to
the advice of the most violent,; bent only to gratify its
prejudices; loud s the thunder and blind as the tornado-this is the worst ~thing earth knows.  The
plagues of the Middle Ages were angels' visits in comparison with it.




94              MEN AND THINGS
Lyons.               Much to fear.            Steamers.
CHAPTE R  XVI.
Lyons.-Down the Rhine: its Scenery.-Nuns: their Appearance. —
An Inference.-A Contrast.-A startling Incident. —Avignon.Split in the Popedom: its Causes.-The Popes of Avignon: their
Palace.-The butcher Jourdan.-The Cathedral.-The Tarpaean
Rock.-The Inquisition.-The Museum.-Old Mortality.-A Conversation with Mine Host.-Petrarech and Laura.
WE left LyonW without any regrets for Avignon.
The city, as you depart from it, looks, as when approaching it, very fine.  Many houses appeared as if they
were hung up on the sides of the hills. We thought
of the crimsoned waters that once filled the channel,
and of the mutilated bodies floating on the waves, lodging on the sand-banks, caught in the shrubbery, and
putrefying in the sun! But that fearful reign of terror
was ended, may it not be hoped, never to return?  But
who knows what to hope or fear from France? Wielding great power, with a fickle, imaginative, impulsive,
irreligious, unprincipled people, there is much to hope,
there is more to fear.
The steamers on the lower Rhone are very long and
very narrow. In this thing they are strikingly peculiar.  They draw but little vwater; their accommodations are very poor.  The river is rapid, but shallow.
The country is broken into mountains and sharp rocks;
and here and there you catch a view of snowy mountain peaks which hide their heads in the clouds.  On
either bank there is a rapid succession of villages, which




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              95
Ruins.              Nuns.                Why nunm 
seem very.dirty and uncomfortable, and some very'pioturesque residences. On the summit of the hills, and
cut into the solid rocks, are seen ruins of castles and
fortresses erected by the barons and feudal lords of the
Middle Ages, and old walls and foundations which date
back to the days of Julius Cmasar, to whom this river
was very familiar. It would seem impossible to build
any structure upon points where some of these huge
ruins are tottering. Some panoramic views occasionally present themselves of surpassing beauty. The
noble bridges form quite an item in the ever-changing
scenery, which astonish an American by their frequency, strength, dimensions, and tastefulness. 
We had as fellow-passengers several nuns. To those
of us from America, they were objects of some curiosity.  The prima donna wore a. large crucifix, and
moved with an air of authority. She was large, coarse
in features, clumsy in her walk, and looked neither
like Lent nor Good Friday. To my certain knowledge,
on the day of our travel she abstained not from meat
or wine. Her companions were like her. All the pictures I have seen of nuns represent them as very pretty,
but all the nuns I have ever seen- were.the reverse; and
my inference is, that voluntary nuns are those whose
convictions are deepened by every look they take in the
mirror, that they have but few hopes of matrimony.
They chatted a good deal together; they were by ncl
means so rapt in meditations on the Virgin as not to
observe every thing passing around them. They look-.ed at me as if they suspected heresy. At a certain
hour in the afternoon I found them together reading a
missal, and by their bide a fine Frenchwoman, of deli



96             MEN AND THINGS'
Representatives.      A lost man.         Avignon.
cately chiseled form and fine face, reading a New Testament. I could not help regarding them as representatives of the two systems of Protestantism and
Popery.
There are boats anchored on the Rhone and fastened
to the banks, which rise and fall with the water, for
the debarking and embarking of passengers. As we
were approaching one of them, a wild scream rose from
its deck. A Frenchman who had enlisted for Africa,
and who, with knapsack on his back, was waiting to
come on board, fell into the stream. It was there
deep and very rapid. I saw him for a minute or two,
with head above the current, but he sank torise no
more! The boat remained a few minutes longer on
account of the accident, and then we were away as if
nothing had happened! His traveling companion came
on board, who showed his feelings of sorrow by soon
falling -asleep. 0, how little are men impressed by
the passage of an immortal soul into eternity!
We left Lyons at six in the morning, and at a little after five in the afternoon, we were landed at Avignon, under the shadow of the towering clifwhich overhangs the Rhone. We went to the Hotel l'Europe,
one of the most neat, pleasant, and agreeable houses
we met in all our travels.
The history of Avignon gives it an interest it could
not otherwise possess. Its streets are narrow, crooked,
and unclean; and it presents every where the'evidence
of decline. During the terrible split in the Church
which boasts of its unity, seven popes reigned here from
1305 to 1377. Two great families arose in the bosom
of Italy, the Guelphs and the Ghibellines,-whose inter



AS SEEN IN EUROPE.             97
Guelphs and Ghibellines.            Popes of Avignon.
ests came into collision. The family quarrel extended
through the state, and through the kingdoms of Continental Europe, and through the Church. Princes, people, And kingdoms, as they sided with this family or
that, took their names. The family quarrel became,
in time, a contest for principles; and the wars of the
Guelphs and the Ghibellines became the struggle between the spiritual and temporal power, through which
it was necessary for Western Europe to pass in order
to break the power of the Pope, which was crushing
all national independence. In this quarrel we find the
causes of the split in the popedom.
By the bribery and intrigue of Philip the Fair, an
ambitious and mercenary man, De Got, was elected
Pope, who took the name of Clement V., and, to keep
away from the influence of the Italian cardinals, fixed
his residence in Avignon, Wvhich had been subject to
the Popes since the Albigensian wars. After the death
of De Got, there were awful quarrels among the cardinals as to a successor. They finally agreed to elect
any one that De Ossa, bishop of Porto, would nominate.
He, kind fellow, nominated himself, and he was installed in Avignon as John XXII. He was succeeded by
Benedict XII., a weak man, whose tomb is shown you
in the old Cathedral. To him succeeded two or three
other men, famed for nothing but wickedness and duplicity, until fear of marauders induced Gregory XI. to
remove his court to Rome in order to secure protection.
This residence of the papal court in Avignon is called
by popish writers " the Babylonislh captivity of the
Popes."  What a blessing to the world if, like the ten
tribes, they had been lost forever!
E




98             MEN AND THINGS
Old palace.   Jourdan.      Cathedral.    Museum
And there upon the top of the rock, called De Dons
stands the old palace of the popes, a Gothic building,.
with high, thick walls, and narrow windows, which
might serve for a palace, prison, or fortification. It is
now a prison and a barrack, guarded by French soldiery from all entrance by strangers. It was here the
human butcher, Jourdan, perpetrated his fearful murders on men, women, and children.
And there, too; is the old Cathedral by its side, where
popes said mass, and then retired to intrigue in the affairs of kings and nations. We saw a part of a mass
performed there, and heard, for a few minutes, a lazylooking priest harangue sorrm old women from a pulpit.
He seemed earnest, and they sleepy. And by the old
palace stands a lofty tower upward of two hundred
feet high, from which persons were cast down, for
summary death, during the frenzy of the Revolution.
It is the Tarpean rock of Avignon. The stains made
by the blood of the murdered are yet pointed out to you
by the guide. And in going down to the town, you are
led through dark arched ways, with gratings and dungeons on either hand, which once belonged to that
"' godly and pious institution," the Inquisition. O, if
those gratings and dungeons could speak!
There is here an old. museum filled with curiosities,
and having many fine paintings; some from the pencils of the Vernets, father, son, and grandson. We saw
there an old man copying inscriptions from the stones,
who seemed as old as the stones themselves, and not
unlike them in color. He looked as if disentombed
with them. He was certainly the Old Mortality of
Avignon.




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.               99
Mine host.       A short chat.      Religion Catholique.
"And where do you go, Monsieur?" said my polite
*host to me, on paying my bill, and as I ordered my
baggage, and in quite Anglified French.
"To Rome, sir," I replied.
"Be you a Catholique?" he again asked.
"No," I replied, affecting some surprise, "I am a
Protestant; there are not many Catholics in America,
save those who go there from Europe. The religion
of Popery does not suit our institutions."
With a peculiar shrug of the shoulder, and a pecu.
liar accent, which left you in doubt whether he spoke
in fun or in faith, he replied, "You do ril understand
the religion Catholique in Amerique. It suits itself to
all the institutions in the vorld."  But America and
the world is beginning to understand the "religion
Catholique," and to regard it as it deserves.
As this was the residence of Petrarch, and the birthplace of Laura, tve made some inquiries about them;
but their names were,unknown to those of whom we
made inquiry, and we had no time to seek those better
informed.




100             MEN AND THINGS
To Marseilles.      A cup.         The serpent every where.
CHAPTER XVII.
Avignon to Marseilles.-Mixed People.-The City.-The Sea. —P0lite Captain.-Marseillaise Hymn: its History.-Dietrick's Fate.De Lisle.-Pensioned by Louis Philippe. —The Hymn itself., THE ride by railway from Avignon to.[arseilles is a
very pleasant one. The country is mostly level'around
you, with oc4fsionally broken hills and shaggy rocks,
and glimpses now and then of mountains towering in
the distance. Its historical associations have much to
interest the antiquarian and the Protestant. The longest tunnel we ever saw is on this route, said to be four
miles through a solid rock. While passing through
it, the cars were lighted by a lamp in their roof. Within about twenty miles of Marseilles, we came on a little spot of surpassing beauty, in form like a large washbasin, containing one or two hundred acres; and from
the bottom to the top it was richly and beautifully cultivated.  The ways of admission to it were tunneled
through its guardian rocks. To catch the sea breeze,
you had only to ascend to the top of the basin; to bask
in a summer's sun, and to breathe the air of Southern
France perfumed with flowers, you had only to descend to its bottom. A more beautiful spot I never
beheld; and yet, as if there can be no Eden without
a serpent, it was marred by women performing fieldlabor, and driving about mules and asses In about
three hours from the time we left Avignon, we were




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.             101
Mixed people.     Commissionaire.     Thoughts at sea.
put down at Marseilles, an old sea-port town, and the
great depot of France on the Mediterranean.
Here we found ourselves at once in a new climate
and among a mixed people. French; English, Jews,
Turks, Arabs, we met every where. The Frank, with
his unvarying mustache; the Jew, with his long beard;
the Turk, with his turban; the Arab, with his bishop's
sleeves on his thighs, were to us objects of curiosity.
Here we expected to meet a party from which we separated in Paris, but they had left for us a note, and
passed on. We soon found ourselves, to our sorrow, in
the'hands of a "' cofnmissionaire," a kiri  of waiter to
be met at the principal hotels, to accommodate and to
fleece strangers.  Against these horse-leeches, every
where, from London, all the way round again to London, I would warn every traveler. When I go abroad
again, I will be my own "commissionaire."
Though a very old city, Marseilles has but few objeots of interests It was founded six hundred years
before Christ. It early became an ally of Rome. Having espoused the side of Pompey, it was besieged and
taken by Cmesar. Subsequently it became famous for
its commerce, its fine sailors, and for its schools of learning. In the opinion of Cicero, it was "the Athens of
Gaul."
It was here we had our first view of the Mediterranean Sea, so associated with all my recollections of early classical studies. And when we trod the deck of the
steamer Bosphore, as she was plowing her way to Naples, we thought of the fleets of Agamemnon, of Ulysses, and ofthe dangers of AEneas, and of Paul, upon
the same waves!t The weather was very fine, and the




102             MEN AND THINGS
Severe test.     French politeness.   Marseillaise Hymn.
sea seemed as blue and placid as if made of molten
glass.
My friend and myself were the only persons speaking English on board, and we had the fine cabin to ourselves. Our little French was put to a severe test;
and when laughing at our blunders, in the way of apology, I would sometimes say to the captain, " Je parle
la langue Franvaise tres mauvais." And, without a
smile, he would reply with energy and emphasis, " Tres
bien, tres bien, monsieur." An Englishman will smile
at your mistakes, and sometimes ridicule you because
of them; a ]enchman, never.  But he is often polite
at the expense of his sincerity. And the not-understanding look of the captain, as we asked him some
questions, and his " non comprendre, monsieur," at the
close, formed a contrast with his " tres bien, monsieur,"
broad enough even to prove to him that he flattered our
French beyond its merits. Beyond a certain point, flattery becomes fun, if not falsehood. So I must regard
all flattery of my French until I understand it better.
The "Marseillaise Hymn" was associated in my
mind with the city of Marseilles, and, supposing it was
written there, I made some inquiry in reference to it.
As a national song, it had prodigious influence during
the Revolution; and so often has it been sung, with joy,
by Terrorists, Jacobins, and Revolutionists, and heard
with paleness and trembling by the friends of mon.
archy and legitimacy, that it is engraved on the very
soul of France. Its awful chorus,
"Aux armes, citoyens! formez vos battaillons!
Marchons! qu'un sang impur abreuve nos sillons!"
has often caused the blood of the man in blouse to boil




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              103
Its history.       De Lisle.          The hymn written.
over, and that of the aristocrat to freeze. Its history,
is in this wise:
Early in the Revolution, Rouget de Lisle, a native
of the Jura Mountains, was a young officer of the garrison at Strasburg. He was a musicia, a poet, a soldier. He was often an inmate there of the family of
one Dietrick, with whose daughters he became a favorite.  The family was poor but patriotic.  "I have
one bottle of wine left," said Dietrick one evening to
his daughters: " bring it, and we will drink to liberty
and our country. Our city is going to have a patriotic ceremony, and De Lisle must compose a hymn for
the occasion." The bottle was brought and exhausted.
De Lisle retired at midnight, his whole soul inflamed.
He spent the night humming and rhyming, rhyming
and humming. He dozed. Rtising with the day, he
wrote the hymn and the tune. He called the family
of Dietrick together, and a few other friends. They
were all musicians, and loved poetry.  They sang,
they wept, they rejoiced together. The national song
of France was written. It flew from club to club, from
city to city. It was sung at the opening of all, the
clubs of Marseilles. A band of young men, called " the
Confederates of Marseilles," marched to Paris to aid the
conspirators there.  These confederates received the
name of Marseillaise; and, singing the hymn as -they
went, it spread over France like lightning..Hence its
name, "the Marseillaise Hymn." The language and
the tune are peculiarly exciting, and, when sung in full
chorus, is said to inspirit even a horse for the battle.
Its singing was forbidden by the Bourbons, but in the
revolution of 1830 it became again the national song.




104             MEN AND THINGS
Poor Dietrick.         The author.           Pensioned
But the history of this famous hymn is not ended.
Dietrick, whose wine and exhortation inspired the poet
to write it, was marched to the scaffold, to the sound
of the r otes first sung in his own house by the aid of
his family andea few friends! Nor is this all.  The
author himself was proscribed, and fled. In passing
along the wild gorges' of the Alps, he heard its wild
notes rising around him, and he shuddered. "What
do they call that hymn?" he asked the guide.  "The
Marseillaise," was the reply. He himself called it "An
offering to Liberty." It was thus he first knew the
name under which his hymn was destined to immortality. It is right to add that Louis Philipper on ascending the throne of France, found out Rouget de
Lisle, who was then seventy years old, and granted
him  a pension of 1500 francs from his own private
purse.
This digression will be forgiven by those who have
any true conception of the hymn and its influence. It
is caused by the power of association, the name of the
city suggesting the national song. It may induce some
reader to cultivate an acquaintance with perhaps the
most exciting and soul-stirring national anthem  ever
written. We know of no good English translation of
it, and we give the hymn as corrected by Lamartine.
THE MARSEILLAISE.
Allons, enfdnts de la patrie,
Le jour de gloire est arriv6!
Contre nous, de la ty-rannie
L'etendart sanglant est lev6.
Entendez vous dans ces campagnes
Mugir ces f6roces soldats!




AS SEEN  IN  EUR.OPE.                    105
The Marseillaise Hymn.
Ils viennent jusque dans Vos bras
Egorger vos fils et vos compagnes!
Aux armes, citoyens! formez vos bataillons!
Marchons! qu'un sang impur abreuve nos sillons!
II.
Qwe veut cette horde d'esclaves,
De traitres, de rois conjures?
Pour qui ces ignobles entraves.
Ces fers des longtemps pr6par6s,
Franpais, pour vous, ah! quel outrage,
Quels transports il doit exciter!
C'est vous qu'on ose mediter.De rendre a l'antique esclavage;
Aux armes, &c.
III.
Quoi! ces cohortes 6tranglres
Feraient la loi dans nos foyers 1
Quoi! ces phalanges mekenaires
Terrasseraient nos peres guerriers?
Grand Dieu! par des mains enchainees,
Nos fronts sous le joug se ploieraient;
De vils despotes deviendraient
Les maltres de nos destines!
Aux armes, &c.
IV.
Tremblez, tyrans! et vous, perfides,
L'opprobre de tous les partis!
Tremblez, vos projets parricides
Vont enfin recevoir leur prix!
Tout est soldat pour vous combattre:
S'ils tombent nos jeunes h6ros,
La France en produit les nouveaux,
Contre vous tout prets a se battre.
Aux armes, &c.
V.
Franpais, en guerriers magnanimeoPortez ou retenez vos coups;
Epargnes ces tristes victimes
A regret s'armant contre vous.
E2




106                MEN AND THINGS
The Marseillaise Hymn.
Mais ces despotes sangainaires,
Mais les complices de Bouille,
Tous ces tigres sans piti6
D6chirent le sein de leur mere.
Aux armes, &c.
VI.
Amour sacre de la patrie,
Conduis, soutiens nos bras vengeurs!
Libert6, liberte cherie,
Combats avec tes defenseurs!
Sous nos drapeaux que la Victoire
Accoure a tes miles accents;
Que tes ennemis expirants
Voient ton triomphe et notre gloire!
Aux armes, &c.
VERSE SUNG BY CHILDREN.
Nous entrerons dan~ la carriere,
Quand nos aines n'y seront plus;
Nous y trouverons leur poussiere
Et la trace de leurs vertus!
Bien moins jaloux de leur survivre
Que de partager leur cercueil,
Nous aurons le sublime orgueil
De les venger ou de les suivre!.lux armes, &c.




AS SEEN  IN EUROPE.               107
Mediterranean.      Leghorn.         Bribery and corruption,
CHAPTER  XV I I I.
Sail to Leghorn.-A Day in its Bay.-Robbing by Passports. —Leghorn from the Sea.-Corsica.-Napoleon.-A great Man a great
Need.-Civita Vecchia: its Fortress.-Placard on N6tre Dame.Civita Vecchia from the Sea.-Ostia. —Bay of Naples.-Landing
in Italy.
YOUR sail down the Mediterranean was remarkably
pleasant. The sea was as quiet to Leghorn as an in.
land lake on a calm, bright summer's day. Until midnight we gazed upon the heavens above us, studded
with stars, which were reflected from the glassy bosom
of the sea, and with imaginations filled with dreamy
thoughts of the scenes which a thousand ages singe
had transpired on these waters, we went to our stateroom.  We awoke in Livornia, as the French call
Leghorn.
After looking around us, and knowing our circumstances, we needed no valet to inform us that we were
in Italy. A strong fortress on. our right was guarded
by Austrian soldiers in white or wool-colored blouse.
Ouir passports, given to our captain at Marseilles, were
sent ashore to get for us permission to- land, but no
permission came.  We wished simply to land to see
the city; but there was no landing without paying a
bribe to the police. Every thing in Italy goes by
"bribery and corruption." We declined the bargain,
and were, in consequence, confined to the deck of our
steamer all day, gazing upon boats, ships, soldiers,




108            MEN AND THINGS
Intense extortion.  Passports.      Leghorn from the sea.
sailors, priests, Jews, Arabs, and Frenchmen, scolding
and jabbering all around us. The extortion hitherto
practiced on us was endurable, but in Italy it became
insufferable from its intensity and frequency, and this
mainly through the system of passports. Consuls,
captains, keepers of hotels, porters, commissionaires,
waiters, custom  and police officers, are united in a
great conspiracy to plunder travelers. Consuls, against
law and instruction, charge for signing your passport,
and on entering and leaving the city it has to be resigned and repaid. You can not turn round without
paying for the privilege. If you enter a church or
museum, a person demands your cane or umbrella, and
you have to pay for their release. You are followed
every where by the most perfect system of annoyance,
and for the purpose of getting your money. The system of passports was designed to catch rogues, and to
prevent the going at large of political disturbers of the
peace of tyrants, but it is retained for the purpose of
robbing honest travelers. It is the burden of complaint
every where and by every body, and Britain and
Amrerica should interfere to break it up. The nearer
you get to the seat of the Pope, the more you are " out
of humanity's reach."
A little bustle, and'our boat was to sea again for
Civita Vecchia. From the bay of Leghorn we had a
good view of the city and surrounding country.  The
city is directly on the sea, and presents nothing inviting.  The hills surrounding it are dotted with houses
unsheltered by trees. But few houses and no trees
are to be seen in the country; hence it presents from
the sea a very dreary and barren aspect.  On our way




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.             109
Corsica and Elba.  Need a great man.   Civita Vecchia.
down we passed the islands of Corsica and Elba, whose
only interest is their connection with Napoleon Bonaparte-the one as the place of his birth, and the other
of his confinement for a few months. They are within sight of one another and of Italy. That great man
has impressed his character upon Europe. You meet
with the traces of his power and genius every whee.
0, for another such man, with all his genius and more
than his morals. What Europe now wants is a great
man. A man uniting in himself the genius of Napoleon and the virtue of Washington, would be Heaven's
greatest gift at this hour to Continental Europe. Before such a man the demon of despotism would fall
prostrate; petty and priestly tyrants would flee away;
the hearts of all desponding patriots would be filled
with hope and joy; there would be a universal rising
of all those sighing in silence over their mental and
moral slavery; and free institutions would rise like
magic, from the North Cape to the Mediterranean, and
from the Straits of Dover to the Sea of Azof. The
whole earth should cry to heaven for such a man!
We awoke in the morning at the sea-port of Rome,:
Civita Vecchia, and within the temporal dominions of
the Pope! The stern towers were frowning around us
in our very narrow harbor, and the third and fourth
stories of white brick houses were looking over the
fortifications upon ts. French soldiers were in all the
fortresses, and the Papal flag' floated from all their summits.  Churches -and crosses seemed numerous-the
ringing of mass and convent bells was incessant.. One
of the fortifications bore the: inscription that it was
erected by Pope Alexander VII., another by Pius VII.,




110            MEN AND THINGS
Horrible placard.      View from the sea.      Ostia.
while yet another bore the coat of arms of the Pope, in
heavy bass-relief. What inscriptions on towers and
bulwarks by those pretending to be the vicars of Jesus
Christ, who came to bring good tidings of great joy to
all people! Is it not a wonder the priests themselves
do not see the baseness of their impositions upon the
creduility of the ignorant, and for very shame abandon
them! No wonder that these shaven-pated sinners
were horror-struck on learning that a placard was
placed one night on the door of N6tre Dame at Paris,
the object-of which was to contrast Christ and the
Pope as shepherds. It was to this amount:
" Christ gave his life for the sheep,
The Pope takes the life of the sheep."
Looking back upon Civita Vecchia from the deck of
our steamer as we departed for Naples, it looks as insignificant as it is. There are small hills in the background surmounted by stunted pines, but the whole
face of the country looks as barren as Popery can
make it.  Every thing seems smitt In with death'or
disease. No houses —no tillage —no flocks or lowing
herds-no trees, fences, or vineyards.  The country
was once settled; and why not now? Late in the afternoon old Ostia came to view. We were near enough
to see its few houses, but not a sail, nor a boat of any
kind or description was there to indicate the mouth of
the Tiber! 0, what a change from the time when
the richest argosies sought its channel, to deposit their
richest cargoes of treasures in the lap of her who sat
proudly on the seven hills as mistress of the world!
I' And is that Ostia?" said I, with an air of surprise,
to our captain.  " Oui, Monsieur," he replied, with




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.             111
Waking up.         Vesuvius.         Landing in Naples.
such a toss of both his shoulders as seemed for a moment to bury his head between them.
After spending a third night upon the waters of the
Mediterranean, we awoke in the morning in the thrice
beautiful Bay of Naples. The heavy splash of the anchor in the waters broke our slumbers. I raised myself in my berth, and opened the window of my stateroom to see where I was, and what was the matter,
and lo! the very first object that arrested my eye was
the smoking summit of the fiery Vesuvius! The desire indulged from the hour I first read of a volcano
was now gratified, and there before me, belching forth
volumes of smoke, stood, although one of the smallest,
yet one of the most famous of them all! The emotions it excited within me I can not describe.
The boats to carry us and our baggage to the Custom-house were soon in waiting for us. As we descended the ladder, a voice from below asked, " Is there
any body here for the Hotel New York?"  The name
of the hotel, and a man speaking English, attracted
our attention; we took him for our guide. We landed,
and here first touched Italian soil. Every thing seemed
new, strange, peculiar. Such hosts of beggars sunning
themselves by the water's side, and so ragged and
filthy!  Such crowds of soldiers meeting us every
where, at every corner! Such swarms of priests tripping along in three-cornered hats and long dresses,
pinned up at one side so as to facilitate their walking!
Such swarms of donkeys, laden with commodities often
twice their own size, and a driver sitting on the top
to boot! Every thing was new, and many surprising.
With very little trouble we passed the Custom-house,




112           MEN AND THINGS
Pleasantly lodged.
and were soon pleasantly lodged in a room facing the
magnificent bay, and from which, day anl nights we
could look out upon one of the most beautiful panoramic views in the world, one of whose attractive objects
is the perpetually smoking Vesuvius.




AS SEEN  IN  EUROPE.               113
Naples.         Monastery.         Penance for having tongues
CHAPTER XIX.
Naples.- Carthusian Monks.- The entire View.-Vesuviis.-Her.
culaneum. —Pompeii.- Cemetery. —The Morals of the People. —
Naples thoroughly Popish.-Its Beggars.-Its Priests.-Its Ignorance.-Its Superstitions.-Its Wickedness.-Its awful Despotism.
-Ferdinand the " Model King."-The blessings of Popery.
THERE is an old saying among the Neapolitans, " see
Naples and die."  It is certainly a city beautiful for
situation.  The bay is a deep crescent, and the city, in
horse-shoe form, rises all around it.  As you are rowed
to the place of landing, the hill on which frowns the
Castle of St. Elmo rises before you; on one heel of the
horse-shoe stands the smoking Vesuvius, on the other
a headland crowded with houses, and famous for the
perhaps fabled tomb of Virgil. And the city itself is
mainly -built on the declivity of a mountain, rising
from the water in the form of an amphitheatre to its
summit. The very summit is crowned with the Castle,
strongly fortified.  And just beneath it is a capacious
convent, from whose windows, porches, and walls may
be taken the most enchanting views of the city, the
bay, the islands, the fiery mountain, and of every thing
which has given the Bay of Naples the pre-eminence
for beauty. This is the Carthusian monastery of S.
Martino, whose inmates, it is said, but rarely speakthus doing penance for the sin of having tongues!
Although famed in history for its many and terrible
rebellions, and now for the ferocity and brutality of




114             MEN AND THINGS
Fidelissima.          Herculaneum.           Pompeii.
its princely and priestly despotism, it bears the name
of fidelissinza; but this describes, not its moral characteristics, but its beautiful situation, its fertile soil,
its balmy atmosphere, its clear blue sky, and its other
manifold physical blessings. Indeed, as you breathe
its mild air, and gaze upon its splendid scenery, as you
slowly rqn your eye along the splendid panorama, from
Vesuvius on the right, over Capri and Ischia, to Pausilippo on the left, you soon feel a heart beating within
you with pulsation so generous, as to induce you to
forgive the lazy Neapolitan who would insist that
" Naples is a piece of heaven fallen down to earth."
Naples, its points of beauty, its surrounding curiosities, its famned antiquities, have been very often described. As seen from the shore, Vesuvius, with its
twin mountain, seems like two eggs of immense size,
joined from centre to bottom, but separated at the top
-the one an extinguished, the other a smoking volcano. Herculaneum is between the mountain and the
city, yet buried under the lava which is congealed
there into a solid rock, hard as flint. You enter it by
a rough descent, with lighted torches. Pompeii, on the
other side of the volcano, and about fourteen miles from
Naples, was buried in 6inders and ashes, which are
easily removed. It is uncovered, and looks somewhat
as would have done " the burnt district" of New York,
after the fire of 1835, if the walls had been left standing up to the first or second story, and the rubbish all
removed. You walk along its open streets, under a
burning sun, with nothing to fear but lizards, which
are jumping and crawling around you in myriads. Its
history, but nothing else, is intensely interesting. The




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              115
Amphitheatre.         Cemetery.           Moral state.
Amphitheatre, where gladiators fought with wild beasts,
with its seats of marble, sufficient to accommodate
thousands, rising one above another, is a noble ruin,
and  fine preservation.  The Cemetery of Naples, of
whic] but few travelers have taken notice, is a place
of great beauty, far surpassing that of Pere la Chaise.
In its centre is a vast under-ground room, over which
extends an open yard, with many trap-doors in it, into
which the poor dead are cast, with or without clothes,
as they may have any or none; but the tombs of the
rich are often superb. Shelves for coffins, eight or ten
high, are made in walls of solid masonry. These
shelves are closed on the interment of a body. Some
large chapels are filled in this way, the walls around
being crowded with the dead, and covered with inscriptions from floor to ceiling.
But that which had for us most interest was the
moral state of the people. Here, perhaps, of all other
places in Christendom, has Popery all things to its
mind. The king and queen are intensely popish. It
was to the protection of the Neapolitan king the Pope
fled from Rome. The security which Pio Nono could
not find in Rome or the Vatican, he found at Gaeta
and in the palace of Portici, under the shadow of Vesuvius. Here he was worshiped as the vicegerent of
heaven, when he was regarded on the Tiber as a tyrant.
And the priests have every thing to their desire in
Naples. The king, queen, government-the systems
of religious instruction and of education, are entirely
in their hands. And so it has been for ages. Naples,
with all its institutions, is in the hands of the priests
as the clay is in the hands of the potter; and here is




116            MEN AND THINGS
Beggars and priests.                The people ignorant.
the place where, without let or hinderance, Popery has
had the grandest opportunity of showing its tendencies
and producing its fruits. And what are its influences
and fruits, as seen in the religious and moral sete of
the people?,
The moment you place your foot on the quay of Naples, you feel at once that you have landed in a city
of beggars. You meet them on landing-they dog
you to the custom-house-to your carriage-to your
hotel. They meet you in'the streets, and, if you give
away a few coppers, they swarm around you. You
see them in groups upon all the quays, around all the
chur6hes, in all the public squares, and in all kinds of
mutilation and rags. They sleep in the markets, or
on the steps, or in the porches of churches; and in the
city of Naples there are said to be thirty thousand and
upward of the most beggarly-looking beggars to be
seen in the world. And yet every thing you see in
the shape or dress of a priest, save the wretched-looking mendicant monks, are clothed in fine black -cloth,'and fine linen, and silk stockings, and shining shoebuckles, and look as if they fared sumptuously every
day. The priests of Naples are the most sleek, rotund,
joyous, well-fed, self-satisfied set of looking men I ever
saw. They look and act as if they were in clover.
Somehow or other, priests and beggars swarm together.
Where is an exception?
Naples is a city of ignorance. There are humane
and charitable institutions there, but there is no system
of education that has in view the masses. None of those
swarming beggars can read. Such is the fact as to the
tier of people above the beggars. The merest fraction




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.'117
No Education.      Sights.        Priests and wickedness.
of the people know how to read. There is a college for
the sons of the aristocracy, whose students wear a mil.
itary uniform; there are schools where, at great expense, the children of the wealthy may be educated.
But nothing is done for the instruction of the people.
There are neither "godless" nor godly schools there.
Hence Naples is an ignorant city. Somehow or other,
priests and ignorance are always found together. Where
the priests wield the influence, the masses are in igno.
rance. Where is an exception?
Naples is a wicked city. We collected statistics in
proof of this, but we can nothere state them. But the
evidences of this wickedness you meet every where. So
numerous are crosses, Virgins,. pictures of Christ, lighted candles, and other papal emblems, and so much external reverence is paid to these things, that a stranger
might infer there is much piety there. But when you
see men bowing to the Virgin, and swearing at the
same time-gambling under a picture of Christ in agony on the cross —drinking, dancing, and carousing in
the presence of a box with a glass door containing an
image of Mary and Bambino, with a candle burning before it-when you see priests in shovel hats, and monks
with ropes around their loins, playing cards in the open
streets, what further evidence do you need of a wicked
and corrupt city? If the pious and the priests do so,
what must be tlie conduct of the sinful and the common people? And the true state of the case is such as
to sustain any inference we may draw. Where the
priests wield the influence, the masses of the people are
wicked. Where is an exception?
Of the gross superstition of Naples, what can we say?




118             MEN AND THINGS
Gross superstition.      A cheat.          Despotism.
Youwsee the proof of it every where. You see it in the
processions of the Host to the chambers of the dyingin their general processions-in the multiplication of
emblems of worship-in the miserable miraculous juggle as to the blood of St. Januarius, a cheat practiced by
the priests on the. people three or four times a year! I
was in the cathedral church of this saint on " St. John's
day," which is a high day in Italy. There was high
mass going on at the altar, at which three cardinals were
serving. A servitor handed his censer to another, and,
stepping down from the altar, offered his services. We
went to the tomb of the saint under the altar-to the
little chapel where the blood liquefies-and as the man
in livery explained all with an air more of incredulity than of belief, I could not help muttering shame!
shame! If priests in America will strive to explain the
sentence of the Madiai in Tuscany so as to turn away
its sharp point fronm Popery and its priests, what explanation will they attempt of the cheat as to the blood of
St. Januarius? If they say it is a true miracle, the
country will be in a broad laugh; if they admit it to
be what it is, a most gross imposition, what follows?
Priests and gross superstition go together. Where is
an exception?  Surely not where they have all things
to their liking,,
Naples is most despotically governed. The king is
a despot, and the priests are his tools and his spies.
The prisons are filled with prisoners, among whom are
the noblest and truest men of the country. The old
Bourbon " lettres de cachet," in all their terrible and
concealed despotism, are revived; and, without charge,
trial, or notice, the very salt of the people are torn from




AS SEEN IN EUROPlE.            119
Gladstone's letters.  Catechisms.   The model kingdom.
their families and confined in the most noisome'and
deadly dungeons. The awful revelations of Gladstone
in his " Two Letters to the Earl of Aberdeen" will not
soon be forgotten by the world. The present fearful
despot granted a Constitution, Hen revoked it, and then
cast into prison and into felons' graves the persons that
formed it, and sustained it by his command. Cardinals
and bishops have written political catechisms, and they
are taught by the priests in the schools of the kingdom
of the Two Sicilies, which teach that all liberally-minded persons are eternally lost; that the people can establish no fundamental laws,,as all such laws must
flow from the sovereign; that the people, who are made
for submission, can impose no laws upon a sovereign;
that a sovereign is not bound to keep his oath when he
thinks it good to violate it; and that the Pope can absolve, when necessary, from the obligation of an oath,
and from the crime of violating it. With a catechism
like this, written by cardinals and bishops, taught by
the priest in all the schools, and fully believed by a
Bourbon prince, we leave it. to our readers to infer what
must be the freedom enjoyed, or the despotism felt, by
the people of Naples. Priests and despotism go together.
And yet, in the view of the Pope and his priests,
the King of Naples is the model king, and his kingdom
the model kingdom of the world. He is the monarch
of the earth whom Pio Nono most delights to honor.
Nor is there a model after which the Pope and his
priests would more'gladly mould our own happy Republic, were it in their power, than the kingdom of
Naples.  The apologists for the Duke of Tuscany in




120              MEN  AND THINGS
Blessings in expectation.
the case of the Madiai should be the advocates of Ferdinand.
O the blessings, civil, social, and religious, in reserve
for our country, when priests are in power here as they
are in Naples!




AS SEEN  IN  EUROPE.               121
Fast and feast days.    An illumination.      San Carlos.
CHAPTER XX.
The Effect of a-Feast-day.- -San Carlos.-Mixture.-Capua.-Gaeta:
its Sights.-The Three Taverns.-First Sight of Rome.-Italy, from
Naples to Rome.-rThe Face of the Country.-The People.-Woman degraded.-Emblems of Superstition every where.-Mass in a
Village. -Light at Gaeta. — Contrast.-Glorious Associations.Door of Hope.
BY the recurrence of a feast-day, which was succeeded by the birth-day of the tyrannical king, we were detained in Naples longer than was comfortable.  A feast
or fast day down here stops all steamers and stages,
and nearly all business; even on the wheels of government they put a brake —not so as to the Sabbath-day.
Man's days are sacred; the Lord's day is disregarded.
This is the action of Popery every where. On the birthday of the king, the theatre of San Carlos was opened,
and the church opposite to it on the square was brilliantly illuminated. The cross by which it is surmounted was in a blaze of light. Thus Popery mixes
and mingles the feast, the theatre, the Church-things
the most opposite —in the same dish, always paying a
preponderating respect to the earthly element. I stood
for some time, in the twilight of the evening, near the
door of the San Carlos, to catch a glimpse of royalty
and to see the fashion of the city. But the royal family was afraid to risk itself amid the gatherings of a
theatre, and the great majority of the men I saw enter
were priests and soldiers. The men in shovel-hats
F




122            MEN AND THINGS
Leaving Naples.   Capua.        Gaeta.       Sights.
looked as if they cared much for the things of this life,
and not much for the things of the life which is to
come.
When the feast and natal day were overt and con.
veyances were permitted again to move, we left Naples
amid a crowd of boys, priests, and beggars. We soon
entered the country, which is finely cultivated. Soon
we thundered through the gates of Capua, where Hannibal took up his residence after hip great victory at
Cannse, and amid dirty lanes and all kinds of noises,
drew up before the Hotel de Ville. It was any thing
but attractive. Who would ever think of Hannibal in
connection with such a place! Thence we passed along
the valley of the Voltorno —magnificently cultivated
and wonderfully productive-to Gaeta, rendered somewhat noted by the hegira of hiHoliness a few years
since. This place received its name from its being the
burial-place of the nurse of _Eneas, according to Virgil,
and in its immediate vicinity Cicero was put to death
by order of Antony. The Mola di Gaeta is beautifully
situated on the sea, as is also the town, from which it
is separated by a valley. But the town itself is in the
broadest contrast with its magnificent situation. Its
streets are very narrow, very dirty, and the hotel in
which we dined was in every respect like them.'The
women wore a most peculiar dress, and the shorts of
the men reached almost half way to their knees. The
women sat in groups in the doors and under the shade
of the walls, nursing their children, and picking each
other's heads. The oranges were falling from the trees
as we rode along, and as we knew that they were clean
when skinned, we ate many of them. Thence we pass



AS SEEN_ IN EUROPE.             123
Three Taverns.        La Rome.          Face of Italy.
ed to Terracina, on the southern extremity of the Pontine Marshes, on the Appian Way, and where once stood,
proudly and beautifully, the palace of Galba. After
crossing the marshes, we spent an hour or more at a
miserable village, the Three Taverns, rendered famous
by the visit of Paul.  Thence we passed through a
beautiful and often broken country until we reached the
heights of Frescati, when Rome, reposing at the bottom
of the immense basin which here opens upon'you, presented itself to view. "Voici la Rome!" exclaimed
our French companions. Soon we appeared before the
gate Porta Giovanni. After due search and inquiry,
we entered the Eternal City; guarded by an officer,
we were conducted to the place of customs, and after
a thorough search for articles contraband and heretical,
we were permitted to file off, each to the hotel of his
choice. Very soon I found quiet quarters, after a most
dusty and fatiguing ride, in the HBtel d'Angleterre. I
was now in the very heart of the city of Rome!
This ride from Naples to the Tiber, though tiresome,
occupying nearly two days and a night, is a very fine
one. It gives you new views of Italy, which is much
broken, very fertile, presenting beautiful sights, and
crowded with a most stupid and debased-looking peasantry. In fertility it seemed to surpass England or
France, and you meet every where with groves of oranges and lemons. The fig and the prune abound, and
the vine trained from tree to tree, and so trimmed as
not to exclude the sun from the culture beneath, forming a sort of net-work twelve or fifteen feet high, gives a
fairy aspect to the scenery. Looking simply'at its surface, fertility, and climate, Italy is a splendid country.




124           MEN AND THINGS
The people.       Popish emblems.       No religion.
But the people seem remarkably poor and debased.
Women are seen working with men in the fields, and
at all kinds of labor, without covering on head or foot,
and often not decently clad. We met them often riding asses as do men, and merrily singing with them as
they were returning from the fields to their villages in
the evening. The villages wear a very faded appearance, and beggars every where assail you. The country is beautiful, the air is balmy, fhe sky is clear as
glass; but you exclaim with amazement as you gaze
upon the people, Are these the descendants of the Romans, whose eagles flapped their wings in the triumphs
of victory at the extremes of the world?
And the' emblems of Popery meet you every where.
The pictures of Mary you see in the shops of the butcher, the baker, the shoemaker, and in the gin-shop, over
the bottles of wine and brandy. Little alcoves are
made for them in the walls by the highways, where
they are often placed with candles burning before them.
The cross you see every where-in houses, and on them
-by the way-side, and in the fields-on the tops of
hay-ricks and stacks of grain. And yet there is no
scriptural religion among the people. On the Sabbath
morning we visited a church in one of the interior villages; a very few people were attending mass, performed by a most clumsy old priest, while a crowded market was going on in the public square, where were
priests in dozens, and some of them laughing merrily
at the tricks of the mountebanks! So little are people
affected by these emblems, multiplied until they become
offensive, that we have seen a man at the same time
bowing to the Virgin and swearing at his ass! In pass



AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              125
Amende honorable.  True succession.    Impressions of a stranger.
ing through Gaeta, a woman, spinning flax after the
fashion of the place, to save herself in a narrow street,
turned into an alcove in the wall in which was an image of the Virgin, which she struck with her flax-stick:
she quickly turned round, and, crossing herself, dropped
a courtesy.  She evidently made the amende honorable by asking her pardon! There is no more religion
in Italy than when Paganism held dominion there;
and there is no more, and probably no less homage to
the external symbols of religion than when the people
worshiped the lares and penates. There is no way
of addressing an ignorant and brutalized people -but
through the senses. And as Popery brutalizes the people, it multiplies the objects of sense. Thus did Paganism, and Popery faithfully writes after its copy. This
is its true succession.
The American Piding through Italy is constantly reminded that he is in a strange land. Convents are seen
on the tops of the very highest hills, and you are left
to imagine how they are accessible. Nor can you conjecture the reason why they are so located. Villages
are very generally built on the slopes of hills, and in
positions where they could with ease be very strongly
fortified-end easily defended. No houses are scattered
over the country, as with us-the people, like sheep, go
out over the fields by day, and return to the same fold
in the evening. -When you stop at a village to change
horses or to take a meal, the first and last persons you
generally see are priests and beggars; and, while equally idle, they differ widely in appearance. The priests
are round, sleek, and well-dressed-some of them as fat
as Eglon. The common people look as one might sup



126            MEN AND. THINGS
Slavish looks.     Associations.      The door of hope.
pose the Hebrews looked in Egypt, when, under the
cruel tyranny of the Pharaohs, they were obliged to
make brick without,straw!
And yet you feel *hat you are treading a soil of hallowed association, whose every road, hill, village, river,
mountain, bay, has its stirring history. In this town
Hannibal lived. In this narrow pass he was checked
by Fabius. Here Cicero lived. There he was killed
by the paid assassins of Antony, who cut off his head
and hands, and sent them to Rome. Along this road
marched the legions of Rome to the conquest of the nations, and on it they marched back again to the Capitol, leading kings captive, with their victorious banners floating over them. In this valley was a deathstruggle with Goths and Vandals. On that promontory Paul landed. Here hle met the brethren from Rome,
and rejoiced with them. Thus every thing has its -history, and during every step of your progress you are
dreaming of the past and sighing over the present!
Paganism ennobled, Popery has degraded Italy. There
is no hope for it but in the removal of the priestly tyranny that has ground it to powder. Let Italy exchange the missal for the Bible, the priest for the true
minister, the authority of the Pope for that- of God,
and it may be again among the nations what it has
been. This is its only door of hope.




AS SEEN  IN EUROPE.               127
Rome.            First sight.        Tower of the Capitoline.
CHAPTER XX I
Dreams realized.-Rome from the Tower of the Capitoline.. —The
Tiber.-The Seven Hills.-The Magnificent vanishes.-The Ruins.
-Bathos.-The Corso: its Appearance.-Afternoon Walk.-Rome
in June.-A Cause for Thankfulness.
I AM now in Rome, of which I have dreamed, read,
and thought from youth up, and in reference to which
I have always entertained the hope that I should see
it before I should die. My dreams and hopes are all'fully realized.  I am in the very heart of the city of
the Caesars!
As a thirsty traveler rushes to a water-brook, bends
down to the stream; and slakes his thirst at the first
draught, so we determined to fill our minds and hearts
with Rome by a first sight. For this purpose we ascended the Capitoline- Hill, passed, with a bare recog.
nition, the colossal statues of Castor and Pollux, and
the magnificent equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius,
and clambered up to the Tower of the Capitoline. We
felt disposed to turn away from the views presented at
the various angles of ascent, until the eye, without obstruction, could sweep the entire panorama.. We gained
the highest point, and Rome lay at our feet! The city
of the Cmsars, all in ruins, lay on one side of the hill;
the city of the Popes, with its palaces and churches, on
the other. Beyond the walls, deserted and death-like,
lay the Carm pagna, an irregular plain, which of old contained parts of Latium and Etruria, while the horizon




128            MEN AND THINGS
Rome at our feet.    The Tiber.        The Seven Hills.
was bounded by the blue line of the ocean, Soracte, the
Sabine, and Volscian hills. Hope was lost in fruition;
the poetry of our feelings passed away like foam upon
the waters, and there lay Rome in its ruins, its splendor, and its prose, before us. And, at the risk of being
charged with a want of taste, a want of reverence, a
want of historic -appreciation, and perhaps many other
wants, I will give my own views of men and things as
I saw them in Rome.
Looking out from the tower of the Capitol, the Tiber
flows beneath you, dividing the city into two equal
parts. It is a narrow, muddy, winding stream, spanned
by four or five bridges-on which not a mast is seen,
nor a boat plying, nor a sign of life, save a machine for
catching fish, which, turned by the current, is evermore
lazily tossing its arms in the air! You are struck with
its utter meanness, and exclaim,.' Is that the Tiber?"
You ask your valet, after running your eye around
in vain search for them, " Where are the Seven Hills?"
And he points you to little swellings here and there
within the walls, saying, " That is the Aventine, and
that is the Palatine, and that is the Caelian, and that
is the Esquiline, and that is the Quirinal, and that is
the Viminal, and this upon which you are standing is
the Capitoline." And there they lie, all within a circumference far too narrow to bound the plantation of
even a moderate Western farmer! And when it is remembered that cities were built upon those hills-that
nations contended in the valleys that separate them —
that in these valleys, over which an Indian would shoot
his arrow, the Etruscans, the Sabines, the Latins con.
tended for empire, how the magnificent takes its depart



AS SEEN IN EUROPE.             129
Poetry gone.   Ruins.     Coliseum.     A wilderness.
ure from all the views we were led to entertain in our
youthful days as to the origin of Rome and the Romans! Indeed, while straining our eyes in the direction of the finger of our valet pointing out this hill and
that, we made the remark that, were it not for his kind
aid, we could not have found out the seven hills even
with a search-warrant. And soon the poetry of " the
seven hills" was all gone!
And there beneath us are the ruins of the Roman
Forum, consisting of falling pillars, tottering walls, and
rubbish in piles, giving obvious indications of former
magnificence, strength, and extent. And at a little
farther remove are the ruins of the Coliseum, grand,
historic, and suggestive of scenes and events from
which the mind and heart recoil. And, as we subsequently wandered amid its arches, and around and over
its walls and seats, we could recall the day when the
holy Ignatius was turned into the area —when that
area was crowded with matrons, virgins, confessors,
and when wild lions, tigers, leopards were let loose
upon them, and, amid the plaudits of some eighty thousand spectators, tore them to pieces!'And in full view,
scattered orVer the Esquiline and Palatine Hills, and
the space between them, are the column of Trajan,
the arch of Titus, the palace of the Caesars, the baths
of Titus, the arch of Constantine, and the ruins of temples, mutely eloquent as to the past and present. The
columns and arches are noble-the Coliseum is magnificent, worth going to Rome to see-but,'in the main,
the ruins have nothing save historic interest; and you
are soon lost in a wilderness of foundations and dilapidating walls. And when we saw brawny Italians
P2




130            MEN AND THINGS
Bathos.          The Corso.         Walk in the afternoon.
stuffing the palace of the Casars with hay to feed the
horses of the French-and swarthy women hoeing po.
tatoes and cabbage upon the top of it —and the Forum
changed- into a cow market-and other things after the
same fashion, the reader may judge how suddenly we
fell from the poetic region in which wev had so long reveled, into the prosaic bathos of roofless walls, crumbling
arches, and piles of brick!
And there, too, is the famous Corso, right under your
eye, and running straight as an arrow from the base of
the Capitoline to the Piazza del Popolo and the Fla.
minian Gate!  This is the great street of Rome, said
in the guide books to have been adorned by at least
three popes! And as it derives its name from horse.
races which were introduced there by the pious pope
Paul IL, every stranger would expect to find it a wide
street,,adorned with- trees, and crowded with palaces!
But not a tree is to be seen there. It is as narrow as
John Street in New York. The -sidewalks are too narrow for-two persons to walk arm-in-arm. The houses
are very high and very irregular; and the palaces, as
they are called, because of the heavy iron gratings of
the windows, look more like prisons than places of private and aristocratic residence.  The middle of the
street is the great promenade; and it is quite peculiar
to see in the afternoon a dense crowd in the street,
dodging in every direction to save themselves from the
carriages which are slowly winding their way along, as
if to expose the jewelry and gorgeous attire of their occupants to the view of the pilgrims to the city of the
Ceesars.  O, if the races of Paul II., of blessed memory,
could only be renewed there on a fair afternoon in April,




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              131
ts this the Qorso.                 Rome a deserted city.
what a scene would be witnessed in the famous Cor.
so! And as, with my friend in travel, we.first walked
down this street to the Piazza del Popolo, where stands
the obelisk of Rhamses, which once stood in Heliopo.
lis as a decoration of the Temple of the Sun, the question was often smilingly asked of one another, " Is this
the famous Corso?" When this is the Broadway and
the Fifth Avenue of Rome, it requires no very vivid
imagination to conjecture what the city, as a whole,
must be! We were as much disappointed at the Corso as we were at the "Yellow Tiber," or at seeing
cabbages growing. on the top of the'Palace of the Emperors!
There is, no doubt, more life here during the win-:
ter, and- at the season when the fasts and feasts of the
Church call strangers together to witness the buffoonery of the Carnival, and the dramatic performances of
Holy Week, when pope, cardinals, prelates, and priests
are the actors; but, during the days of our sojourn, it
seemed like a deserted city.. Those days were in early
June, when the strangers had mostly returned north,
and when but few, save the citizens, remained. But
few were seen at the various points of interest. There
were no houses building —no new streets opening-no
ships or steamers on the river-no manufactures-no
railway cars whistling along. The shops were all
small, and mostly for the sale of pictures, cameos, intaglios, and mosaics; and but few to purchase.  For a
short while in the afternoon the Corso was crowded;
but until then, and afterward, it seemed like a city
deserted.  French soldiers were there —their drums
were beating at all hours in some direction; priests




132            MEN AND THINGS
Lonely feeling.                     Cause of tliankfulness.
were there in any number, and tripping along with a
most self-satisfied air at all hours; and beggars, that
always follow priests, as does the shadow its shade,
were to be met every where. But yet the city seemed
deserted. I felt, in kind, the feeling of loneliness which
oppressed me in going through the streets of Pompeii.
It would seem as if some dreadful miasma was hanging over it, from which as many as could had fled, and
of which those who could not flee lived in constant
terror. I thanked God a thousand times that I was
neither a Roman nor a papist. And these are mercies
for which I have to thank him daily.
But I am not yet done with Rome.  " Thus endeth
the first lesson."




AS SEEN  IN  EUROPE.               133
Ob)ect stated.          Foul arts.             St. Peter's.
CHAPTER XX I I.
Object stated.-Saint Peter's.-From Top to Bottom.-Chat in the
Basement.-Its Grandeur and Amplitude.-Statue of St. Peter.Its Worship disgusting.-Mass there.-A disappointed Confessor.
-The Scene of the Rod.-The Sublime and Ridiculous.-The.
Confessional, or Tomb of St. Peter.-Poor Ives's Emblems of Office.
-The Wafer Taken.-A Farce.
As the great object of my visit to Rome was to see
for myself the workings of Popery at the very centre
of the system, and under the eye of its infallible head,
I sought to render every hour of my time, and all
my researches, subservient to my one object.  My
readers will'give me credit, at least,'for honesty, when
I frankly own that I was as much interested to discover
the foul arts of the priests, as I was to look upon those
immortal productions of the fine arts, which, together
with its ruins, now form the only attractions of Rome,
whose power was once supreme in the world.
Of course we went to St. Peter's, the noblest edifice
of its kind in the world, and as we gained the point'where we had a first view of its towering front, surmounted by the apostles —of its semicircular colonnades
adorned with nearly two hundred statues-of the majestic pillar, sent to Rome by Caligula, that rises in the
centre of the piazza-of the fountains which send up
their snow-white foam, we stood and gazed in mute wonder! Until now, my disappointment almost reached the
point of dejection, but now my expectations rose to the




134           MEN. AND THINGS
The magnificent.     A picture.        Wealth of art.
point of astonishment. We entered. Our astonishment
rose as we went around the magnificent interior. And
as we gazed upon the splendid nave-the gigantic pillars-the stupendous dome that swells up nearly five
hundred feet, arrayed in beauty to the very apex-the.
wonderful creations of art that meet the eye at every
point, we felt overwhelmed with a sense of the beauti.
ful and the magnificent! We clambered up to the
top and looked again over the city, and feasted our
eyes upon every thing that could be seen from that
elevated position. We descended to the apartments
beneath the building, where, by the aid of torches, we
examined little gems-of chapels and altars, and beautiful statuary and painting. Down in those dark
chambers we were shown a picture of the Judgment,
with robbers, murderers, and bad women on the left,
and a great array of popes and cardinals on the right.
"Why," said one of the company, to the guide, "why
not put others on the right as well as popes and: car.
dinals?"'  "0," said he, with a shrug, "the painter
was paid by the Pope to paint it, and he must put
them there; he was paid for doing it." Although he
had a shaven crown, and was an official of the Church,
he evidently intimated that some on the right hand
might, in truth, have been placed on the left.
Regarded in whatever point of view, save as a house
for the true worship of God, St. Peter's is a magnificent
building. You are lost in its amplitude, which is suf.
ficient to give room to fifty thousand persons, and you
are amazed at its wealth of architecture, statuary, and
painting, at which you gaze and wonder, until your
sensations of pleasure become oppressive. I visited it




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              185
Last view.       DI  Statue of St. Peter.    Sights.
often, and always with increasing admiration of its
grandeur, proportions, and magnificence; and as I
stood taking my last view of it, at the point where I
took my first, a feeling of sadness came over me at the
reflection that I should never see it again. I had seen
other cathedrals before, St. Paul's, Westminster, Notre
Dame, and have seen others since, including those of
Turin, Strasburg, and Cologne, bIp    parison with
St. Peter's, they are as the Gram]     _the Alps, or
as the Falls ofthe Clyde to Niagar~
And yet, as a house of Christian worship, how ut.
terly offensive to a Protestant! There, conspicuously
poised, where all eyes may behold it, in the great nave,
and near the high altar, is the bronze statue of St.
Peter. It is a sitting figure, resting on a marble pedestal, with an impulsive, stern expression; the right
hand raised as if in the act of blessing, and holding
two ponderous keys in its left. Save the head and
hands, this is the old Jupiter Tonans, with thunderbolts exchanged for keys. It is a very uncouth affair,
and is in striking contrast with the perfection of beauty
by which it is surrounded. If the thunder-bolts had
only been retained, it would be a good representation
of Popery-black, ugly, fierce in aspect, with keys to
lock up all heatics, and bolts to strike opponents dead!
And to see old women and silly girls, soldiers gilded
and plumed, peasants from the Campagna, ladies with
liveried servants, and now and then, " few and far between," an ecclesiastic, bowing to this ugly man in
bronze, wiping off the kiss of the last worshiper, and
then imprinting one of their own on its toe, and rubbing that toe with their foreheads-if all this is not




136.MEN AND THINGS
Deep ingratitude.     Funny boys.'       Confession.
disgusting, I should like to know what is. 0, if Peter
himself were only there, how he would spurn such silly
idolaters from his presence! And while gazing upon
the scene, I was informed that, when last in Rome in
fiery pursuit of a pair of red stockings, the venerable,
pious, retiring, bashful John of New York prostrated
himself most prQfqiundly before this image! And yet
he was refusied  stockings! What ingratitude
for such piou      ation!
And there, n    all sides, are altars and confession-boxes, where masses are muttered, where sins are
confessed and forgiven, for a compensation. At some
of these altars I saw masses in progress, without a person to witness them save the boys in waiting; and
when the priest was reading from the mass-book, these
boys were often playing pranks behind his back! Even
in St. Peter's, the Mass is falling into the contempt
which- it merits. Even before the altar, boys are making fun of the priest!
And it was pleasant to see fat-looking priests sitting
in their confession-boxes, anxiously waiting for customers, and without finding any! I was struck with
the face of one of these fathers, and walked several
times in front of his box for the purpose of reading it;
but it was too darkly shaded to be legible. I thought
he looked at me as if he had caught a fat customer,
but he was mistaken. A poor woman came along
and dropped on her knees by the side of his box. She
looked as if she needed both forgiveness and alms.
While whispering into his left ear, another woman came
along, and stood at a respectable distance before the box.
She dropped courtesies until she attracted the notice




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              137
Long rod.          Little sins.       The confessional.
of the knight of the box. She then fell on her knees,
and soon a long rod like unto a fishing-rod was slowly
extended from the box, and thrice laid upon her head.
She then crossed herself, rose from her knees, and went
smiling away.  "And what," said I to our valet, "is
the meaning of all this?" " That woman," said he,
" is a little sinner; perhaps she told a little lie, or
got a little angry, or said some bad word not bigf
enough to confess-her so standing before the priest is
a confession of some such little sin-and he laid the
rod upon her in token, and as a sign, of forgiveness."
Such was the sight seen, and such was its explanation! What horrible perversion of the Gospel, under
the light which comes pouring down the dome of St.
Peter's, and in the presence of the high altar, where
the Head of the Church alone oan officiate! And what
a labor-saving process for confession, and to obtain forgiveness! A courtesy is a confession, and the sticking
out of a long rod conveys pardon! And all this in St.
Peter's! The ridiculous in the presence of the sublime!
With a guide-book in my hand, I was walking
around, gazing now at this painting, now at that
group of statuary, and now at that superb mosaic. I
stopped before the high altar, and by the confessional,
as it is called, which contains the grave of St. Peter.
It is surrounded by a marble balustrade, from which
are suspended many lamps constantly burning. A
double flight of steps leads down to the shrine, where
is a kneeling pope by Canova, and other statues. A
silver-gilt box rests upon the tomb of St. Peter, in
which are placed the palli, when finished by the withered nuns of St. Agnes, which the Pope confers on the




138            MEN AND THINGS
Palli.          Poor Ives.         The wafer in St. Peter's.
priests when made archbishops. They are placed there
to absorb some virtue from the holy atmosphere which
there circulates!'It is somewhere about this tomb
the Pope is said to have hung the badges of office of
poor Bishop Ives, on his recent surrender of them, with
his faith, at the foot of the sovereign pontiff!  Is it
not a wonder that sensible men do not see how closely
Puseyism treads upon the heels of the ridiculous and
farcical!
As I turned away from the "Confessional," I observed a young man of medium appearance, half-way
between a peasant and a shop-keeper, making his way
to an altar. He knelt before it.  I stood to witness
the result. He prayed for a brief time. Without
changing his position, he looked round and beckoned to
a boy. They whispered.  The boy ran off, and soon
returned with a priest.  The wafer was taken outconverted into God-was laid upon the man's tongueand'the priest was away again! The whole thing
was over in as short time as it takes me to write this
account of it. This was the only instance I saw in
Italy of a man taking the wafer. This was in St.
Peter's, and the, whole thing, as far, at least, as the officials were concerned, was a farce. There is no worship in this basilica of the popes, it is only a splendid
temple of the arts.




A, SEEN IN EUROPE.                139
Tlb Sistine.    Fresco of St. Bartholomew.  Of the Judgment.
CHAPTER XXIII.
Sistine. -Fresco of the Judgment. — Entrance of Cardinals. —Entrance of the Pope.-Salutation of the Pope.-His Appearance.Anecdote of Dr. Miller.-Questions.-Cardinals.-Antonelli.-How
to modify our Opinions and Ideas.-How absurd appear the Claims
of Popery in the Sistine.
THE Sistine Chapel is, of course, an object of great
curiosity at Rome. It is connected with the palace of
the Vatican, which is adjoining St. Peter's, and is the
private chapel of the Pope.  You ascend the famous
stair-case of Bernini, which is guarded at the foot by
"the Swiss Guards," the most fantastical-looking soldiers imaginable, and enter the Sala Regia, a large audience-chamber adorned with fine frescoes, and, among
others, with that commemorating the massacre of St.
Bartholomew! Papists would deny any responsibility
for that horrible massacre, and yet its blessed memory
is perpetuated in the Vatican by a splendid fresco-!
From this chamber you enter the Sistine, and the fresco
of the Judgment, by Angelo, sixty feet high and thirty
broad, is before you. This is universally admitted to
be the most extraordinary picture in the history of the
art of painting. The conception is such as the genius
alone of Angelo could embody, and the result is grand
and sublime. Although faded by the triple effect of
damp, time, and the incense so often burned on the al.
tar beneath it, it is difficult to weary in gazing upon it.
This spot we frequently visited; and it was here, at




140             MEN AND THINGS
Entrance of cardinals.  Saluting the Pope.  His appearance.
vespers and matins, on feast-days, we had our views
of the Pope and his cardinals. The cardinals enter by
the same door as do strangers-walk along the aisle,
with a servant untwisting their robes, to the inner of
the three apartments into which it is divided-there
they kneel and pray toward the altar, their attendants
fixing their robes all the while-then they rise, and,
after bowing to the altar and to their brethren on the
right and left, take their seats, with their servants at
their feet.
When all is in preparation, there is a bustle, and
soon the Pope enters by the opposite door, bows to the
altar, and goes up to his chair. Then one after the
other the cardinals leave their seats, their scarlet robes
trailing behind them; and after saluting the Pope by
kissing his hand covered by his vestments, they return
to them. When this ceremony, which fills you with
disgust for the actors, is over, the services commence,
which are mostly conducted by a choir made up of
men and eunuchs. Twice did I witness these cere.
monies in the Sistine; on the first occasion there were
sixteen, on the second, twenty-three cardinals in attendance. The Pope is a man of fine proportions, six feet
two or three inches high, with a pleasing, pensive aspect, not very Italian in a visage which is more expressive of good nature than of talent or firmness. He
might do very well to govern a convent; but he is utterly unqualified for his double position as the head of
a church and of a state. Personally he is amiable and
well-meaning; in morals he stands higher than his
predecessors or cardinals; and that is all. While in
his presence I thought of an anecdote told of the good




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.             141
Anecdote of Dr. Miller.  My thoughts.    Antonelli
Dr. Miller, of Princeton. When in the Seminary there,
I had a fellow-student of far more beauty than brains,
and who, like all such, was quite a pretender. An
elder from a country church went to the professor to
inquire for a pastor, and he named to him several
young gentlemen. " I have heard," said the elder, " of
Mr.," naming the pretty student; "what do you
think of him,'Dr. Miller?" Not wishing to say any
thing against, nor yet willing to commit himself as
strongly recommending the student, he hesitated, but
finally replied, " He is a confoundedly good-looking
fellow." This is about my estimate of Pio Nono.
Yet I confess that while gazing upon him, dressed so
gorgeously, and receiving so coldly the profound homage of the cardinals, I could not help asking, Is that
the man who retired under the pretense of going to
pray, dressed himself in the livery of a servant, jumped
upon the box of a carriage, and was off to Gaeta? Is
that the vicar of Jesus Christ in our world-the head
of the visible Church-without a belief in whose claims,
and an abject submission to them, I can not enter
heaven?
And what shall I say of. the cardinals? Some of
them were very old, bending under the weight of years;
some of them were very plethoric, and quite in danger
of apoplexy; and some of them quite young for their
position, and good-looking. But none of them so impressed me as did Antonelli, the cardinal Secretary of
State. Young, say forty-five-thin, tall, with penetrating eye, and a face strongly expressive of intellect,
passion, and will, you would single him from the rest
as a real spirit. And such, by all accounts, he is. He




142            MEN AND THINGS
The Pope a puppet.    Ideas modified.     Infallibility.
is the soul of the College of Cardinals; he is the real
Pope, while Pio Nono is a mere puppet in his hands,
used simply to give validity and legality to his acts.
And he is all his looks indicate; shrewd, far-seeing,
vindictive, tyrannical, of an iron will, profuse, and profligate in his morals. Such is his reputation; such is
the portrait of him given me by one who knew him
well, and for years. There was a crowd in the Sistine
on each of the occasions to which I allude; nor was
there a person there of any mark that escaped the notice of Antonelli. When the Pope was reading the'missal, this cardinal was reading the audience, and I
was striving to read the cardinals.
How a few sights like those witnessed in the Sistine
modify many of our feelings and opinions! A bishop
or archbishop, singly, is quite a person; a single cardinal in a country, as Wiseman in England, is far more
so; but when you see them in crowds, as in Rome or
Naples, you soon pass them by without notice. When
you learn their true character, you despise them; you
regard them as does a good man self-righteousness —
the more, the worse. With us a living lizard adds to
the attraction of a raree-show; but when they surround
you every where, as in Italy, they become excessively
offensive.
And as you gaze upon the Pope and cardinals in the
Sistine, how the idea of infallibility, as taught by the
Papists, takes unto itself wings! What, that goodlooking, good-natured, but yet not intelligent —looking
man, infallible! Believe it who can. What, the Pope,
and these cardinals in conclave, infallible! The idea
is preposterous. And to feel that it is preposterous,




AS SEEN' I-N EUROPE.           143
Lunacy.       For and against.   Popery detested in Rome.
nothing is required but to visit the Sistine, and to witness their gorgeous buffoonery, which, if performed
without priestly robes, would subject them to the im.
putation of lunacy. And are these the men who give
laws to the papal world-who make bishops and archbishops in America —who send Wiseman, in red stockings, to England-who decide the question as to colleges in Ireland —who turn their people against the
crown in Britain —for the crown in Austria-against
liberty in Sardinia and Hungary-and for it, wherever
they can remove let or hinderance to the extension of
their ghostly dominion? Yes, these are the very men,
parading their man-millinery before you, and claiming
to exercise by Divine right an irresponsible: power,
which, when allowed, lays the world at their feft. And
will their claims be allowed? Yes, when the light of
truth has ceased its shining —when the Gospel-sun has
fallen from its orbit - when the sea has ceased its
soundings. If there is a city in the world where Popery can be so read as to be detested, it is Rome; and
if there is a spot in Rome where the claims of Popery
seem more ridiculous than another, it is where the
Pope and cardinals most do congregate. And when
I see clever men, in other respects, pleased as a child
with a bawble, with the fillets which these priests of
the Sistine confer-seeking advice at their hands as to
how they are to manage unruly Americans —taking
pompous airs upon themselves because of the favors
which they confer- placing a dagger' before their
names, which, if needful, I fear, they would plunge into
the very heart of our liberties at their bidding, because
of their advancing them up a rung or two in the priest



144            MEN AND THINGS
Enormous falsehood.                Procession of donkeys.
ly ladder; and with the broad banner of our couptry
floating over them, acting as the tools and the spies
of these Italian ghostly despots, it requires all the generous actings of my nature to maintain for them a
particle of respect.
Popery as a system is an enormous falsehood; may
God save America from its deceivings and its tools. To
wipe out every suspicion from the mind that there may
be some truth in the high claims of the Pope and his
college of cardinals, nothing is necessary but a visit
to the Sistine. The person who can not be thus cured,
is a fit subject for the solemn procession of donkeys
which seek the blessing of his holiness on the Feast of
St. Antony.




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.               145
City of prodigies.  1Eneas.     Mars.        Vultures
CHAPTER XXIV.
Prodigies of Roman History. —Rome yet a City of Prodigies.-Juggle
of St. Januarius. - Holy House of Loretto. - Bambino. - Scala
Sancta.-Maria Maggiore.-Statue of Mary at St. Agostine.-Holy
Chain in St. Peter's, in Vinculo,-Well in St. Maria, in Via Lata.Prayer in the Church of St. Gregory.-Popery a prodigious Falsehood.
ROME has been always a city of prodigies; prodigies
abound in Roman history from its earliest annals..iEneas was the son of Venus, a goddess. Led by the
god Mercurius, he fled from Troy.  This god built for
him a ship, in which he put to sea with his company.
The ship was miraculously conducted to Latium; on
landing, he was conducted by a white sow to the place
of his first habitation. When the *race of Anchises
seemed destined to extinction, the god Mars interposed,
and by Sylvia, then a vestal, becamne the father of Romulus and Remus. Sylvia and her two boys were cast
into the Tiber; Sylvia became a goddess, and the wife
of the god of the river. Her two boys were stranded near
the Palatine Hill, and were taken by a she-wolf to her
cave, who fed them as a mother. When they needed
something more than milk, meat was brought them
by a woodpecker, and other birds of augury hovered
round the mouth of the cave to keep off insects from
the sons of Mars! When Rome was to be built, these
two brothers were divided in opinion as to the location;
but the flight of vultures decided for the Palatine Hill
G




146           MEN AND THINGS
Remus.    Mass instituted.  Romulus.  The succession.
and for Romulus. Remus was killed by his brother
for contemptuously stepping over a rampart roe by
him around the hill; but subsequently announced his
forgiveness of his brother, on the condition of the institution of a feast to commemorate his memory, and
on which a kind of a mass should be said for the repose of his soul. In a battle with the Sabines the Romans, were flying before them; but Romulus called
upon Jupiter, and vowed to build him a temple if he
would give him victory. The Romans returned to the
conflict, gained the victory, and hence the temple of
Jupiter Stator. Romulus was taken to heaven by his
father Mars in a thunder-storm; where he was worshiped as a god, under the name of Quirinus. But
the time would fail me to tell of the prodigies of the
pious Numa-of the shower of stones on Mount Alba
-of the eagle taking away the cap of Lucumo, and
replacing -it-of Altus cutting a whetstone with a
razor-of the flanhes that played round the head of
the infant Servius-of the statue of Servius rebuking
his impious daughter —of the fresh bleeding head dug
up on the Capitoline Hill in preparing the foundations
for the fanes of Jupiter, Juno, and Minerva-and of
the thousand and one wonders which abound in the
history of regal, consular, and imperial Rome.
Nor is the city of the seven hills less a city of prodigies now than in the days of augury, pagan priests,
speaking statues, and heads bleeding afresh when dug
from under the mountains: However the chain of
succession, in other respects, has been broken —in this
respect it has been prodigiously maintained. Prodigies, prodigies, meet you every where in Italy, and




AS SEEN IN EUROPE,              147
Present prodigies.  St. Januarius.  Loretto.  Bambino.
priests and bishops are every where found to swear to
their truth; and when the Pope says Amen, then these
prodigies become matters of Catholic faith. Of the juggle about the liquefaction of the blood of St. Januarius
at Naples, I have already said something. 0 what
a shameful hoax! and now practiced thrice or four
times a year, to confirm the vulgar belief!  ~
And there is the " Holy House of Loretto," a peevish
and nervous compound of stone and wood, which flew
from Palestine to Dalmatia, and then from Dalmatia
across the Adriatic to Lauretum, in Italy, in which
there is a miraculous image of Mary, which has performed more miratces than Moses, Christ, and all the
apostles together. And there is the picture of Mary,
faded, dark, and ugly at the present day, at whose
fane thousands and tens of thousands now yearly offer
up their adorations! And all the lying legends about
this rickety house are endorsed by the Right Reverend P. R. Kenrick, of St. Louis, a foreign priest who
has come commissioned from Rome to enlighten the
ignorant and unconverted Americans! What an- enlightened people we will be when our credulity has
grown so as to exercise a full faith in such a monster
absurdity.
And there is the wonderful Bambino, which mine
own eyes have seen, in the church of Ara Cceli, on the
Capitoline Hill, and in reference to which I have already said som3thing to Chief-justice Taney. It is a
doll, which looks as if it was made in Germany and
dressed in Italy, representing the infant Christ.  Its
history is, of course, miraculous. It was made in
Palestine-was lost at sea-suddenly appeared at Leg



148            MEN AND THINGS
The angelical doctor.  Scala Sancta.   Maria Maggiore.
horn-was conducted in triumph to Rome —was stolen
away by a. pious lady-was restored by angels to its
place again in Ara Cceli, amid the ringing of bells,
and at this hour gets more fees, and is said to cure
more patients, than all the doctors of Rome! The
richly-jeweled doll is conveyed in a sumptuous carriage, attended by priests and guards, to the houses of
the sick; if they get well, Bambino has the credit; if
they die, it has none of the blame! Where, in the pagan and fabulous annals of Rome, is a prodigy to surpass Bambino?
And there is the Scala Sancta, at St. John Lateran.
This, too, has its miraculous history. It consists of
twenty-eight marble steps, which, tradition says, belonged to the house of Pilate, and down which the
Savior descended when he left the judgment-seat.
It was carried by angels to Rome, as the house of Lo.
retto was carried to Dalmatia, and thence to Italy,
None are permitted to go up these steps save on their
knees; and by doing so, the person secures certain plenary indulgences, and for years together. I saw with
sorrow devotees crawling up these steps.  My feet
trod upon the three upper steps, and behold, I yet live!
It was crawling up these very steps that the great doctrine of justification by faith burst upon the mind of
Luther, with a brightness which was never eclipsed.
It is one of the great prodigies of Rome.
And there is the fine basilica of St. Maria Maggiore,
so called from being the chief church of Rome dedicated to Mary. It is upon the Esquiline Hill, and
upon the very ground selected for the purpose by heaven, and indicated by a fall of snow covering precisely




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              149
Toe of Mary.       Peter's chain.      Miraculous well.
the ground, on the 5th day of August! Can the shower of stones on Mount Alba surpass thineneath
an altar in this church are the swaddling-cll  which
covered the Savior when laid in the manger! Are not
these prodigies?
In the church of St. Agostine is a statue of Mary
and the infant Savior, by Sansovino.  It possesses
great sanctity and efficacy; but why, I could not learn.
I saw crowds of poor people kissing the toe of Mary,
and rendering the most revolting homage to the statuary! And the church, its naves, its pillars, its altars,
are glittering all over with hearts hung on them by the
persons who obtained healing by kissing -the toe of
Mary, and rendering homage to the marble representation of herself and her Son!
In" the church of St. Peter's, in Vinculo, is the chain
which bound St. Peter when in prison in Jerusalem.
That holy chain gives its name to the building, and
imparts to it its sanctity. Its very touch has wrought
many miracles. Filings from it have been sold at
enormous prices, and have been set in rings, bracelets,
and pins for kings and queens. Five devils flew out
of the mouth of a man on being touched with it; and,
being broken in two, it became miraculously one again
on being put into the hands of the Pope by St. Helena! And these miracles are splendidly commemorated by frescoes from the pencils of the best masters.
And that wondrous chain is annually exhibited for the
adoration of the faithful. Is not that chain a prodigy?
And beneath the church of St. Maria, in Via Lata, is
the miraculous well, which sprung up for the baptism
of those converted by Paul, and the very pillar to which




150            MEN AND THINGS
The pillar.                        Prayer to St. Gregory.
he was bound, and the very chain that bound him to
it!  A nat miraculous water is kept under look
and ke      is only exhibited to the faithful once a
year! On that pillar these words are deeply engraven,
" Verbum Dei non est alligatum."  0, if that sentence was only engraved on the pillar which adorns
the piazza of St. Peter's!
But what impressed me beyond any thing of the
kind I saw in Rome, was a prayer offered by the faithful daily in the church of St. Gregory. There is among
the priests great expectations as to the return of England to the true faith, which the numerous defections
there have greatly increased. And St. Gregory is the
personage to whom they most look, and whose aid they
most solicit to this end. And here is the prayer, copied on the spot from a little board on which it is pasted,
in Italian and English, for the use of the faithfil:
" 0 adorable defender and propagator of the faith, St.
Gregory, from thy seat of glory in heaven, behold how
great a portion of the noblest British empire is without the pale of that holy faith, which through thy zeal
it received of the sons of Saint Benedict, sent thither
by thee; and how other regions of this miserable world
are in danger of losing this most precious of divine
gifts. Through that most ardent charity which during life animated thee, obtain for that kingdom, from
the Most High, the increase and diffusion of the Catholic faith; and for us the grace that we may never
waver in the true faith, which would be the most severe chastisement that could befall us for the punishment of our sins. Amen."
Was ever a prayer offered to Jupiter by Romulus
more purely pagan than this?




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.               151
Popery a prodigy of falsehood.
And were it necessary to adduce the old relics of
St. Peter's, St. John Lateran, Santa Croce, tje miraculous bones, clothes, stones, and pictures   at every
where abound, it would appear that Rome is at this
hour more a city of prodigies than when Numa presided in the state, or when the Pontifex Maximus offered sacrifices, or augurs predicted coming events
from the entrails of animals or the flight of birds.
Popery is a religion of prodigies, and is itself a prodigy
of falsehood: To me it is a wonder how any sensible
man can do otherwise than scornfully reject it.




152             MEN  AND THINGS
Rome to be studied..                     onurchbes
CHAPTER XXV.
Rome to be studied.-Its numerous Churches.-Their Riches of Art
and Endowment.-Numerous Priests and Nuns. —Poverty of the
People.-Abounding Beggars.-Way to shake them off —Absence
of Youth.-The People in Fear.-Despotism, through the Confessional.-Its Morals.-No Religion there.-The Voice of Rome to
the Nations.-Its History not yet ended.
To an American and a Christian visiting Rome, all
questions pertaining to its moral and social condition
possess deep interest; and they will receive a full examination. Rome is the centre of Papal unity — is
the seat of the Pope and his court-is the Jerusalem
of the Papist in all lands-is the point whence all the
authority in the Papal Church proceeds, and whither
all questions, of whatever character upon which the
provinces are divided, return for solution. There is the
fountain-head of infallibility, and where you would very
naturally expect those model civil and social institutions
to exist after which the Pope and his priests would
fashion the world. And if the nations could only read
in the light of history, and in the light of the present
state of Rome and the Romans, the true, the legitimrate
influence of Popery wherever it gains the ascendant
power, they would dread its establishment among them
as they would the scourges of war, famine, and pestilence.
Among the first things that impress you in Rome is
the number and splendor of its churches.  The people
are about one hundred and fifty thousand all told, and




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              156
Church accommodation.  Endowed.       Priests and nuna
there are said to be nearly four hundred churches.
This would be a church for every four hundred inhabitants. And when we consider that St. Peter's, St.
John Lateran, St. Maria Maggiore, would contain many
thousands, and that even the smaller churches would
contain from one to three thousand, we will readily admit that there is a superabundance of church accommodation.
And these churches are all richly, many of them magnificently embellished. There is a wealth of art in its
churches, almost if not quite sufficient to pay the debt
of the English nation. And these churches, with their
Cardinals, archbishops, bishops, chapters, and priests,
are utterly independent of the people; they are all richly, some of them royally endowed. *
Another of the striking peculiarities of Rome is the
number of its priests and nuns. There are upward
of two thousand nuns, and about three thousand priests;
making a due allowance for children, there is a priest
for every twenty-five adults! And, taken as a class,
they are the best-looking, best-dressed, best-fed men
you meet; and if they are not perfectly satisfied with
their condition, their stately tread, their self-complacent
air, bear false witness against them. The Pope lives
in regal style. The cardinals, with their horses, servants, carriages all in scarlet, live and move as princes.
They are the princes of the Church and of the Roman
state. The bishops live sumptuously; and even the
mendicant monks are as fat and greasy as is desirable.
And such is the number of these priests that you meet
them every where; and when a noted service is to be
performed, they are there in dozens as actors. If priests
G 2




154            MEN AND THINGS
Priests make no paradise.  Beggars.  Way to drive them of.
of every class and character, in numbers entirely sat
isfactory, and wielding all power, could civilize, enlight.
en, and Christianize a place, then, in every desirable
respect, Rome would be an earthly paradise.
But in striking contrast with the sumptuousness of
their churches, their riches of art, and the wealth of
the priests, is the poverty and wretchedness of the people. Beggars meet you every where —in the streets,
at the doors of caf6s and shops, at the doors of churches,
amid the, ruins of the Forum and the Coliseum, and
even under the very dome of St. Peter's. While leans
ing over the " confessional" and admiring the kneeling Pope, by Canova, a mutilated beggar gave me a
gentle hint, by politely pulling the tail of my coat, that
charity should be'exercised under the shadow of the
high altar, and in the very presence of the holy relics
of Peter and Paul-! All points of interest which attract
strangers have also peculiar attraction for beggarw.
They annoy you every where, and are shaken off witn
difficulty. An English gentleman, the companion of
many a ramble, I found, by a stamp of his foot and the
utterance of certain sounds, could send them off at once.
After witnessing his tact frequently, and after calling
him a few times to: my aid, I asked him what he said.
" I do not know," he said, laughingly; "I but strive
to imitate the action and words of a priest before whom
I saw the beggars flee,: the other day, in the Corso."
We appealed to our valet for the interpretation, who
said they meant " Go to the d.~" No wonder the poor
creatures so hastily concluded that the person who could
send them so far beyond Purgatory would give them
neither a paul nor a penny.




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              155
Joyous youth missed.    No!ty.           No morals.
You also miss from the streets and promenades of
Rome the joyous youth, ranging from fourteen to twenty-five, which you meet every where in Britain and
France; and the people you do meet seem dull and
joyless.  They seem to walk in dread of an'omnipres.
ent enemy. And instead of bowing to the priests that
are evermore flitting along with shovel-hats and robes
indicating their order, they dart on them a furtive
glance, and give a meaning shake of the head when
they are past. You need only walk the streets, enter the shops, and. read the countenances of the people,
to know'that the-Romans feel and dread the rod of the
oppressor.
Nor is there any liberty in Rome. Every family is
under a priestly spy: through the confessional and the
women the priest gets the secrets of the family, its visitors, the opinions of fathers and sons; and oftenon
the confessions of mothers and daughters, husbands and
brothers are immured in prisons, or sentenced to the
galleys. A gentleman, for years a resident of the city,
informed me that the, despotism of the worst emperors
was no more severe than that now exercised under the
sanction of Pioe Nono. Rome, Naples, Austria, par ex.
cellence Papal states,; and yet the culminating points
of despotism!
Nor are there any true morals in Rome. How could
there be with such an army of lazy priests, and with
such a swarm of French soldiers? The last Pope has
left several heirs: the present one has a good public
character; but as to the cardinals and priests, it is
notorious that they are only forbidden to marry. The
noblest of the Romans say that, because of the otter




156            MEN AND THINGS
Effects of the confessional.    1   No religion.  No Sabbath.
profligacy of the priests and their arts at the confessional, they have no confidence in the virtue of their
wives, mothers, sisters, or daughters! If such is the
public and general character of the priests, what must
be that of the people? Indeed, I could not place before my readers the statements made, and by the very
best witnesses, for the purpose of illustrating the low
point to which morals have fallen in Rome, and through
the profligacy of the clergy, from the Pope down to the
miserable mendicant friar, whose character is often
more filthy than his feet or his frock.
Nor is there any religion in Rome. There is superstition there as rife as in the days when Jupiter and
Venus were worshiped; but, as a rule, the religion of
Christ is unknown and unpracticed. I spent a Sabbath there; and as there was no Protestant worship
saw% that of the Puseyitish stamp without the walls,
and as I prefer the reality to the bungling imitation, I
went to St. Peter's, and other churches. The markets
and shops were more crowded tharf*usual. The priests
were seen every where trading. Peasants from beyond
the walls, in every variety of costume, were in the
streets. The Sistine was crowded mostly by strangers
to see the Pope at mass amid the glittering swords of
the "guard noble;" but St. Peter's was almost deserted, as were the other churches that I visited. There
is no Sabbath in Rome-there is no Bible influence in
Rome; the common people scarcely know it by name
-there is no preaching of the Gospel in Rome —there
is no instruction of the'young into the principles of
Divine truth. Their religious literature is a compilation of lying legends, of which the wonders of Bam



AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              157
Religious literature.  True picture.    Priestly power.
bino and of the Holy House of Loretto are good samples; and priests and people are living without hope
and without God in the world. I have not a doubt but
that the priests are mainly infidels; and that the people, who are not like the priests, are mainly idolaters,
from whose minds all ideas of God and of Christ are
crowded out by fictions concerning Peter, pictures, holy
relics and places, fables of the saints, and, more than
all and above all, by Mary and Bambino.
Some may say this picture is overdrawn; but it is
not even one half to the reality. So all-will say who
have spent a month in Rome truly desirous to know its
social and moral state. Your liberty, your property,
your life, hang suspended upon the will of priests, who
are at once ignorant, superstitious, rapacious, and prof.
ligate, who feel that they have a divine warrant to flay
or fleece you as they will, and wholield to no impulse
save that which tends to strengthen their claims and
to extend their dominion. And these Romish priests
form the great central power of the Papal Church.
They make, or unmake, bishops and archbishops; and
they sdM out decrees binding upon all their people,
and as unchangeable as the laws of the Medes, which
give direction and form to the movements and opinions
of all their priests to the ends of the earth. And could
these priests have their way, they would lay the nations, chained and debased, as lowly at the feet of the
Pope and his cardinals as the once imperial city of the
Cwesars now lies. From its crowded prisons, and its betrayed people, and its banished patriots, and its Christless churches —from its noiseless streets, and the ruins
which crowd its ancient hills, and its men afraid to




158            MEN AND THINGS
Voice of warning.                 Rome's history not ended
lisp their opinions to their wives or daughters, a voice
rises for the warning of the nations, saying, " THE PRICE
OF YOUR CIVIL AND RELIGIOUS LIBERTY IS ETERNAL VIGILANCE OF POPERY."
The history of Rome is not ended. It is yet the
seat of empire in opposition to the kingdom of God. It
is the centre of a spiritual power felt for evil to the
ends of the earth. Let that power be scattered, and its
prestige is gone-let it be rendered subservient to truth,
and: the world would feel its renovating effects.  God
has his eye upon Rome, and, priest-ridden and downtrodden as it is, will make it subservient to some glorious end. For Popery there is nothing in reserve but
destruction; like a leprous Jewish house, it must be
torn down. But moral conquests may yet be obtained
on the banks of the muddy Tiber which will throw
those of all the CA-rs into the shade.




AS SEEN  IN EUROPE.               159.Exit from Rome.        Procession.         Melancholy
CHAPTER XXVI.
Leaving Rome.-A Procession of the Host.-The Aurelian Way.Civita Vecchia. —Genoa from the Sea.-The City.-Columbus.Political History.-Duomo.-Head of John the Baptist.-Sacro Catino.-Santa Maria.-An Evening Ramble.-Scenes in the Streets
-Female Dress.-Tastes differ.
THE time had come for our departure from Rome.
As we wound our way through the narrow and dirty
streets toward the bridge St. Angelo, we met a procession carrying the host to a dying man.  Our carriage
stopped, and our postillions uncovered, as did all the
people in the street. A guard of soldiers went before
it with drawn swords; a priest gorgeously arrayed
carried it, followed by one of those hideous processions
made up of persons wrapped up in a sheet with holes
made only for their eyes; another guard of soldiers
brought up the rear!  Nothing but- its stupendous
wickedness can surpass its stupendous folly and gross
superstition. We crossed the noble bridge, filed to the
left in front of the castle of St. Angelo, passed by the
Via S. Spirito, under the walls of St. Peter's, and by
the Fabrician Gate made our exit from the City of
the Popes. And as the magnificent dome of St. Angelo
died away in the distance, and the gathering shades of
evening hid one object after another from our view, we
yielded to a feeling of melancholy, suggested by the
reflection thatwe had taken our last view of the ruins,
the splendor, the wretchedness, and the superstition




160            MEN AND THINGS
Night ride.          Civita Vtcchia.         Genoa.
of the most historic, the most superstitious, the most
dilapidated, the worst governed city on the globe. It
is pleasant to visit Rome; it would be horrible to live
there.
We left Rome about seven o'clock in the evening,
and after trundling all night over the old Aurelian Way,
and through as desolate a country as could be desired,
so far as we could see it by the light of a full moon,
we found ourselves entering the ponderous gates of
Civita Vecchia at five in the morning. This is the
sea-port of Rome, and is in every respect as contemptible as it has been represented. Soldiers, priests, beggars, here swarm  as they do every where in Italy.
Why is it that these always abond d:gether?- We
took a walk around the city —through the market, its
churches, and around its fortifications. Nothing impressed us. It was onthe balcony of a hotel here, overlooking the square, that an Italian denounced to me
the priests and soldiers sauntering below, in thoughts
that breathed and words that burned. The steamer
from Naples soon made her appearance, and we were
soon away for Genoa.
Genoa looks magnificently from the sea. It lies at
the base of a broken range of hills gracefully sloping to
the water, and whose sides are dotted with gay suburban palaces almhnost to the very summit. Its streets
are very narrow, exceedingly up and down, in many
places inaccessible to carriages, and several of them
are lined with palaces. Indeed, it is called " the City
of Palaces." But while we by no means admired it
to the extent we expected and intended,i*t is a city of
deep interest to a traveler from America. It was here




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              161
Columbus.      "  Political history.      Now rising.
that Columbus was born, the discoverer of the Western
World. The son of a poor wool-comber, he soon developed an irresistible passion for the sea. At the age of
fourteen he commenced navigating these waters, and
when he had passed but a little beyond his fiftieth
year, he gave rise to a new era in the history of our
race by the discovery of America. And yet little is
known here of the man, who, in the estimation of the
civilized world, Is one of the great and chief benefactors
of mankind. He bequeathed a few manuscripts to the
city-these are venerated as relies, and that is all!
I asked for the place where the wool-comber lived, but
none could tell me.
The political history of Genoa makes it also interesting to an American. After the downfall of the empire of Charlemagne, it became a replblic, and famous
for its maritime enterprise.  The conflicts between it
and Venice are known of all men. But although often
torn by fearful internal dissensions, and often conquered by foreign powers, and now a part and parcel
of the kingdom of Sardinia, its old love of liberty has
never been extinguished. It is now the house of refuge for the banished patriots of Lower Italy; and while
the cities of the Pope and of the King of Naples are rapidly declining, this is rapidly rising, and looks more
like an American city as to the shipping in the harbor,
the bustle on the quays, and the warehouses erecting,
than any other we have seen on the Mediterranean.
Genoa is a Papal city, while the law secures the
rights of conscience to all. The priests and churches
are very numerous, but the priests walk not as proudly,
nor are the churches as gorgeous, as in Central Italy.




162'MEN AND THINGS
St. Lorenzo.       Sacred relics.      Sacro Catino.
The Duomo or Cathedral of St. Lorenzo is a singular
affair, different in its architecture from any we saw.
In. its friezes are inscriptions which narrate that the
city was founded by a grandson of Noah, and that
James II., prince of Troy, took possession of it! Priests
have a remarkably fine genius for making history.
Here also is a neat chapel, which no woman is permitted to enter, beneath whose altar is a chest contajping the head of St. John the Baptist! Women
were excluded by Pope Innocent VIII. from this sacred
chapel in vengeance upon Herodias. Why were not
men also excluded in vengeance upon the executioner?
We were only permitted to see the chest-we dare not
look with Protestant eyes upon the holy head! How
many heads the preacher in the wilderness must have
had! Ifere also,o a miraculous painting, by Luke, of
Mary and Bambino. If Luke painted all the pictures
ascribed to him, we see not how he got time to write
his Gospel or to say his prayers. One thing is certain,
he was a very miserable artist. But, above all, here is
the wonderful Sacro Catino, a precious dish said to
have been given by the Queen of Sheba to Solomon, to
have held the Paschal Lamb at the Last Supper, and
to be the very cup in which Joseph of Arimathea
caught the blood flowing from the wounds of the Savior on the cross!  Three times a year is this Catino
brought out, amid an array of priestly magnificence,
for the veneration and adoration of the faithful. It is
a glass cup brought from Palestine by the Crusaders,
and pious priests have made its history.,It was once
taken to Paris, where it was broken; but the pieces
were put together with gold, which made it the more




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.             163
Offer declined.      A view.           Evening walk,
valuable. The priests offered to show us the sacred
relic for five francs a head, but not considering the
gross humbug worth the price, we declined the bargain.
From St. Lorenzo, we clambered up a high hill, on
which is situated the church of Santa Maria di Carignano, and wound our way up to the very summit of
its superb cupola. The city, the harbor, the sea, lay
beneath us, and the magnificent environs lay around
and above us. The view is neither grand nor extend.
ed, but Italy presents none more beautiful.
In the cool of the day, we sallied out to see and heai
what we could. We entered every: church we met,
and it was the same old story-,-beggars at the doora few women inside —priests-altars —pictures, some
good, some not-the same monotonous mumbling of
the mass, and here and there an old man praying before crosses and pictures. Recognized as strangers,
we were assailed by beggars at every corner, among
whom was a fair sprinkling of shaven crowns, with
dirty monkish garbs. And to see priests, peasants,
and women stopping in the midst of their prayers,
talking and laughing, and then starting on again
without ever changing their kneeling position —the
whole thing- reveals a heartlessness which can not be
described to those who have never witnessed it. The
Rev. Mr. L., of Massachusetts, just returning from a
visit to the East, was one of the company. He stated
that the G.reek Church in the East was even worse
than the Church: in Italy; and that if in Jerusalem he
must be one or the other, he would prefer being a
Mohammedan to a Christian after the Greek or Roman




164           MEN AND THINGS
Turk and Papist.   Ladies of Genoa.   Good substitute.
stamp; that the Turk held and practiced more of the
truths of the Bible, than did the one or the other!
How can the Turks be converted to Popery?
The streets were crowded with people, and mountebanks were playing in every direction, and some of
them performing wonderful feats. We were impressed
strongly with the beauty and the dress of the females.
Light in frame, with dark hair and eyes, and finely
proportioned, they seemed, in the gloaming of the -day,
rather to float than to walk before you. They wear
no bonnets-a bonnet is a sure sign of a foreigner.
Their dress consists of a piece of muslin folded across
the top of the head, and elegantly pinned to the hair,
and gracefully falling around the neck and over the
shoulders in the form of a shawl. Their ear-rings are
usually large and elegant. Their countenances are
brilliant and expressive, and although singular in dress
and appearance, you remember only their taste and
elegance. We saw no female dress in Europe that we
desired to see introduced into our country, save that
of the ladies of Genoa. On the evening of a warm
summer's day, it would be cool, modest, and exceedingly graceful. They would be an excellent substitute
for.those excuses for bonnets which hang upon the rear
of a lady's head, or for that enormously ugly superfluity of Leghorn under which they sometimes walk,
which keeps all companions at a respectful distance,
and which flaps in the wind like an umbrella from
which the whalebone had been taken away. Hideous
affairs! Tastes, how various! Fashion, what a tyrant!




AS SEEN  IN EUROPE.               165
Exit from Genoa.      Guardian goddess.      Inventions.
CHAPTER XXVII.
Departure from Genoa. —A Procession.-The Goddess of the City.Primitive Work.-Ascent of the Apennines. —Descent.-Degraded
Woman.- Novi.-Great Valley, and fertile.-Alessandria.- Marengo: its Battle.-Dessaix.-Austria.-Haynau an Incarnation of
Austria. —Enter Turin.-An Incident.
IN leaving the city for Turin, we had an enchanting
view of Genoa and its harbor. On our way out we
passed one of those horrible funeral processions, such
as we had met in Naples and Rome, in which persons
are covered with sheets, with holes only for their eyes!
As we passed through the gate of the strong wall that
guards the city, we turned back to read the inscription
over it, from which we learned that " The most blessed
Virgin" is its guardlian goddess!  Soon we came to a
point where we toM  our last view of the Mediterranean,
and turned into a valley of beautiful cultivation, and
pursued our way to the foot of the Apennines. The
day was hot and the road dusty, and it was quite
primitive and refreshing to see men scattering water
on'the highways with shovels from the little strearhlets
that flowed on either side of them! No ideas of laborsaving machinery have yet reached Italy, save those
which pertain to the doing up of confessions, and forgiving sins, and getting money. In inventions for
these purposes, it leads the world.
We ascended the Apennines by a winding road of
stupendous workmanship, which is at no point steep,




166           MEN AND THINGS
Ascending the Apennines.  Descending.  Women at work.
although it winds up a mountain which seems to possess no more inclination from a straight line than does
the leaning tower of Pisa. As we looked up we could
see nothing but wall above wall, and arch above arch,
as high as the eye could reach; and yet, drawn by
twelve horses driven and ridden by quite a guard of
postillions, we ascended in full trot to the summit;
and as we looked down, we could see carriages and
men as pigmies in the profound depths below! On
the very summit of the mountain, where nothing but
monks and goats can live, we found a monastery whose
bell was tolling as we passed it. The sound recalled
far distant lands, and a well-remembered house of
prayer, and a beloved people accustomed to repair to
the sanctuary at the call of the church-going bell!
We thought, silently prayed, and passed on. And if
we went up the Apennines in a full trot, how can I
describe the manner we went down it? A full gallop
does not express it as we felt it. And amid clouds of
dust, the jabbering of postillions, tfl-aying of dogQ
at our John Gilpin careel, we traveled down, and on
to Novi.
They were tunneling the Apennines for a railway
from Turin to Genoa, which, when completed, will be
a great affair for Sardinia. And armies of women were
engaged in making these tunnels! With a pannier
of peculiar construction, made to fit the back, they entered the tunnel at one side, and emerged, laded, on
the other side; bent down like beasts of burden, they
followed each other in rows to the end of the embankment, where each turned round; there a man drew a
pin which let the bottom fall out, and the stone, gravel,




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              167
Female degradation.      Novi.           Alessandria.
or clay fell out of the basket! And hundreds of women were working in this way at this bestial employment!  Li!~e-kilns, in great number, line the road;
and the women were quarrying the stones, carrying
them to the kilns, and sending away the lime! Whether these women were convicts, or the wives and daughters of the peasants, I know not; but they wore no
criminal badge. This was the lowest state of female
degradation I ever beheld. Can the world furnish a
lower? And in these parts of Sardinia there are no
"godless schools" to vex the priests or to pervert the
people.
Out of the large cities, the inns of Italy are wretched.
We dined at Novi, and spent some hours there waiting
the cars. The: people looked extremely poor, and the
town extremely dirty. All the memorial I find in my
journal in reference to this place is, "At Novi we dined
at the table d'h6tp and most filthy it was." Here
we took the railway, and found it a most pleasant
change from the diligence in -which we came rushing
down the Apennines like an avalanche. We flew over
a plain of boundless extent, level as our salt meadows
or Western prairies, reaching from the Apennines to
the Alps, crowded with villages under magnificent cultivation, and irrigated from both ranges. We were
informed that by means of irrigation three crops are
annually raised on this plain. In the midst of it stands
the city of Alessandria, which has a history. This
city is near the junction of the Tanaro and Bormido,
and the country around is often overflown by these
rivers, and may be overflown by them at any time
when necessary. It was this fact which led to its se



168            MEN AND THINGS
aonn.uexanaer.  I                   Battle of Marengo.
lection for a fortress in the days of the Guelfs and
the Ghibellines. It was called Alessandria after Pope
Alexander of blessed memory, who, it is lid, placed his
foot upon the neck of the Emperor Frederic, appropriating and quoting the text, "Thou shalt tread upon
the lion and the adder." The Emperor answered," Not
to you, but to Peter;" the Pope replied, " To me, and
to Peter." But the great interest of this place to the
modern traveler is, that the famous battle of Marengo
was fought in its vicinity, one of the great battles of
Napoleon. On that extended plain, on the 13th of
June, 1800, met the Austrians under Melas, forty thousand strong, and the French under Napoleon, numbering only twenty thousand. The battle was protracted
and desperate. The French ranks broke, and were retreating, when Dessaix appeared in the distance. Riding up to Bonaparte, he said, "I think this a battle
lost.'? " I think it a, hattle won," was the reply.
Thinking they were masters of the field, the Austrians
relaxed their exertions, and gave way to the most clamorous joy; when Napoleon, returning upon them unexpectedly, drove all before him. Hundreds were slain —
thousands were taken prisoners. The Bormido was
bridged with the dead bodies of horses and men, and
rolled red with their blood. And there, under our eyes,
lay the extended plain, bearing the most luxuriant
crops, where this fearful conflict took place; and all,
save the massive fortifications of the city, looked as
calmly and as quietly as if "' the battle of the warrior
with confused noise, and garments rolled in blood,"
had never been'there fought. The way in which the
Little Corporal gained this battle would almost induce




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              169
Dessaix.       Bloody Austria.     Approaching the Alps.
the belief that the stars in their courses fought with
him. Never was he so near losing a battle that he did
lose, and rarely did he gain so complete a victory.
it was gained at the expense of the life of the gallant and generous Dessaix, to whom even the Egyptians
gave the name of the Just Sultan, who fell by a cannon-ball just as the shouts of victory rose from the
ranks of the French. His body was embalmed and
carried to the hospitium  on the St. Bernard, where
stands a monument erected to his memory. Another
was erected to him on the plain of Marengo, which was
destroyed by the Austrians in 1814. Will Austria ever
do a noble act? It is essentially a nation of savages,
and should be so regarded and treated. Its history is
a disgrace to the civilization of Europe. I can not
otherwise regard the human butcher Haynau than as
Austria incarnate. It would seem as if the highest
welfare of our race, and especially the true social regeneration of Europe, require that it should be broken
to pieces as a potter's vessel.
From Alessandria we proceeded onward toward Turin. Soon the Alps, which lay all day in dim outline
propping the sky, became clearly visible. As the intense glare of the sun faded away on the approach of
evening, they became clearly defined. As we approached them the oppressive heat of the day gave way to a
chilly atmospheres which rendered an overcoat quite
comfortable. As the dusk of the evening fell around
us, we crossed the Po, and under the dazzling glare of
snow-clad mountains, on which a bright, full, cloudless
moon was shining, we entered the city of Turin, and
soon found ourselves comfortably located in the Hotel
H




170           MEN AND THINGS
Fellow-travelers.     Bold attack.        Bluste
l'Europe. We were now in the beautiful capital of
the kingdom of Sardinia.
At a station between Alessandria and Turin,~
brawny yet well dressed Italians came, jostling
other, into our car. Soon they commenced an excited
conversation, which became an intense scold. There
would be an occasional lull, but they would commence
again with increased fury. We expected a fight; but
it was all words, and the less interesting because we
could not understand them. My traveling friend had
a severe headache, which was not made better by the
noise of our neighbors; and when suffering was no
longer a virtue, he jumped convulsively to his feet, and
poured such a torrent of indignation in English upon
them as perfectly astounded them. Napoleon at Marengo made no more bold or sudden attack! They'looked at my friend, and, after exchanging an indignant glance at one another, the war ceased. Not another,word did they utter. Soon one of them left us;
the other accompanied us to Turin, and was quite attentive to us when we reached the station there. And
when in our subsequent wanderings we met with any
thing unpleasant, I frequently advised my friend to try
the virtue of a bluster in English. Judging by the
effect on this occasion, our language must possess great
energy to those who do not understand it.




AS SEEN  IN  EUROPE.                171
Turin.                  Situation.                Coli&a.
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Turin.-Beautiful for Situation.-No Antiquities.-Growing rapidly.
-Charles Albert deceived.-His Death.-Room in the Palace.Spirit of the present King.-Opposed by the Priests.-Legislature
of Turin.-Senate and House. —Our Charge at Turin.-Santo Sue
dario.-Worship with the Waldenses: their Chapel.-A Royal Peo.
pie: their Doctrines and Order.-Turin a strong Point from which
to act on Italy.
_ TURIN is a beautiful city, the most grandly situated
of any inland capital in Europe. It has no suburbs,
and you enter at once from a perfect country into the
streets of a beautiful city. The transition seems like
magic.  Through the perspective of the streets, which
are wide, and cross each other at right angles, the hills,
the mountains, the Alps, which surround the city, are
constantly in view.  There, on the one side, is Monte
Cenis and Monte Viso, clothed in perpetual snow, calmly looking down upon you, and cooling even the noon.
day heat by their cold breath; and on the other flows
the classic Po, a deep and rapid river. Beyond the
Po, and immediately fronting the city, rises the Collina,
a beautiful range of hills sloping to the river, and
sparkling with beautiful villas to its very summit. At
a short distance from the city, and as part.of the Collina, rises Moncalieri, which is surmounted by a royal
palace, the favorite country residence of the present
loyal family. Indeed, every beauty which can be afforded by wood, water, mountain, and plain; by city




172            MEN AND THINGS
No history.         Prosperity.         Charles Albert.
and country; by a most luxuriant vegetation in the
presence of eternal snows, are combined in the neighborhood of Turin! We doubt whether it is equaled by
any inland city of the world for beauty of situation.
Turin, unlike Naples, Rome, and Genoa, has but
few historio associations. It has almost no antiques,
classical' or medieval, so frequently has it been ravaged by the surrounding powers, which have so frequently contended for it. Now the capital of the
kingdom of Sardinia, almost the only constitutional
government in continental Europe, it is growing almost
with the rapidity of an American city. The persecuted Christians and patriots of Central and Southern
Italy flock there for protection; and as they bring
with them property, intelligence, industry, and a love
of liberty, the city is rapidly rising. New streets are
making, and blocks of houses are there rising, as in
the city of New York. The appearance of every thing
around you makes you feel that you have passed beyond the blasting, crushing influence of the priest,
and that you are among a people strongly imbued with
the principles of liberty and Protestantism. And so
you are.
The recent King of Sardinia, Charles Albert, headed,
in 1848 and 1849, what was called the Italian League,
whose object was to combine the various states of Italy
into an Italian empire.  tombardy, Naples (and perhaps the States of the Church), entered cordially %nto
the League; but bloody Austria opposed, and declared
war against it. Lombardy and Naples treacherously
withheld the forces promised, and Charles Albert was
defeated. He resigned his throne to his son on the




AS SEEN I.1 EUROPE.             173
His room.            Noble son.            CencbiteaS
field of battle, and retired to Spain, where he died of a
broken heart. And there, in a room in the palace, is
the bed on which he died, and the furniture of the
room in which his broken heart ceased its pulsations;
and but few moderate American farmers would consider the bed or furniture too sumptuous for their own
sleeping apartments. The son, into whose hands he
surrendered the government, nhw reigns in Turin, with
more than the feelings of his father glowing in his so
He is dead against Austria-is the friend of civil and
religious liberty-maintains the Constitution granted
by his father with vigor-is hated by the old despotisms around him, whose ministers at. his court are
spies on his conduct; and is yet destined to act a con.
spicuous part in the affairs of Italy. So resolute is he
in maintaining his position, that he openly declares
that the power which prostrates the constitutional liberty of his people must first march over his lifeless
corpse. Of course, this is wormwood and gall to the
priests, whose instincts are all for despotism and darknesi. They have opposed in every way the progress
of free institutions in Piedmont, and, as a reward for
their opposition, some of their bishops are in banishment, and they are all hated at home.  The world is
rapidly learning that the great object and aim of Popery
is to maintain the power and dominion of the priest.
The Romish priesthood is a corporation of cenobites,
closely compacted and bound together by the strong
ties of self-interest, whose object is to retain and maintain, and transmit their corporate power by all and by
any means.
The Senate and House of Deputies, modeled after




174             MIEN AND THINGS
Parliamer,t.       Its members.         Sabbath in Turin.
the British House of Lords and Commons, were in
session in Turin.  This is the only legislative body in
Italy  The Senate is appointed by the king and his
ministers; the Delegates are elected by the people.
And their laws are laws.  With cautious but steady
progress, they are reforming old abuses, laying aside
old feudal institutions, and laying a deep and broad
foundation for a political and social fabric like unto
that of England.  There is a strong democratic element
in the House of Deputies, whose leaders are its best
orators.  Never did we see a more nobly-developed
company of men assembled, or, to appearance, more
intelligent or gentlemanly, than the Senate of Sardinia;
and the House of Deputies was as sedate and orderly,
as was that of France, as I have already described it,
disorderly and turbulent.  We were rejoiced to find
that at such a formative and critical period in its history our government was there represented, by the Honorable William B. Kinney, a gentleman every way competent to discharge the hi gh duties of his mission.  We
have reason to lknow that he is in high favor with the
court, and with the noble men who are seeking to fortify the free institutions of their country. His mission
to Turin will not be in vain.
We spent a Sabbath in this city which will not
soon be forgotten.  Drums were, beating, and soldiers
marching in all directions in the morning.  About ten
o'clock we went to the Cathedral, not to hear or see
mass, of which we had seen and heard enough for a
thousand years, nor yet so much to see the royal fanmily, which was there, as to visit the chapel of the Santo
Sudario, the priestly glory of Turin.  But what is the




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              175
Santo Sudario.     Its history.      Waldensian chapel.
Santo Sudario? It is nothing less than one of the
three folds of the shroud in which Joseph of Arimathea
wrapped the body of Jesus! and which to this hour
bears the impress of his body.! The other two folds
are at Rome and Besan9on. This wonderfully sacred
relic was discovered during the Crusades-was first
deposited in Chambery; but was sent to Turin to enable St. Borromeo to venerate it without the trouble
of crossing the Alps! It seems they never returned it.
And there is its magnificent chapel in the Duomo,
where the old rag is exhibited for the veneration of
the people on great occasions! By what language can
we sufficiently stigmatize the base conduct of a priesthood which will practice such outrageous fraud on an
ignorant and confiding people!
From the splendid chapel which takes- its name
from that old rag, and where but few save the ragged
were present, we went to the Waldensian chapel, of
which the Rev. Mr. Bert is pastor. We had previously
formed an acquaintance at the table of our charge
with this excellent and interesting man. His chapel
is built in the centre of a square surrounded on all
sides by houses, and which is entered by a large gateway. It is perfectly plain, externally and internally.
The pulpit is high, with a sounding-board. The pews
are made of benches, and texts of Scripture in large
letters are written on all the walls, and meet the eye
wherever it turns. O how strongly this contrasted
with the images, and pictures, and the Sudario we had
just left! The minister, in gown and bands, entered
the pulpit, read the Scriptures, and read a very short
form of prayer, without any change of position, which




176             MEN AND THINGS
The service.         Royal people.         Their order.
was standing. They sung chants from a book in which
the words and music were printed together, accompanied by a small organ.  Save in the reading of a
form of prayer at the opening, the entire service was
conducted as-in our Presbyterian churches. The people seemed mostly, from their dress, of the humbler
class, yet they seemed intelligent and devout. Their
attention was marked through the entire service.
And are these, said I, at the close of the service, the
descendants of the Waldenses, who have kept the lamp
of truth burning in these Alpine valleys from the remotest'ages of Christianity? Are these simple people
the children of the Vaudois, that bribery could not corrupt-that war could not exterminate-that persecu.
tion could not wean from the faith of Christ-and that,
like their own Alps, have withstood the storms raised
for their destruction? Yes, these plain rustic people
are their descendants; and I felt that I wag in the
presence of a royal race! What a green oasis amid
the desolate Sahara of Popery is that Waldensian
church at Turin! Although I could but very imperfectly follow in the worship which was there performed
in French, yet as it was the first Protestant service I
had attended for weeks, it was to me like a river of
water in the wilderness, like the shadow of a great
rock in a weary land!
I sought from Pastor Bert minute information as to
their doctrine, their discipline, and their present state.
In doctrine and discipline they are essentially Presbyterian; maintaining the doctrines of grace, infant consecration, the parity of the clergy, and government by
Church courts. And at no period of their recent his.




AS SEEN  IN EUROPE.              177
Present state.       The field open.       Strong post.
tory have they been as flourishing as at present. On
one of the new and finest streets of the city they were
making arrangements to put up a noble edifice for the
worship of God, amid the most dire opposition of the
priests. Their numbers and wealth are greatly increased by the persecutions of Lombardy, Rome, and
Naples; and with a full liberty of worship and of
preaching the truth as it is in Jesus, they have an'
open field, and are seeking to cultivate it. Turin is
just the place on which to plant our lever for the elevation and regeneration of Italy. It is an Italian city;
there full religious liberty is secured; and there is an
ancient, apostolical, evangelical, uncorrupted Church,
fully, compactly, strongly organized, and cemented by
the blood of martyrs and the persecutions of ages. Were
Napoleon Bonaparte now alive, and did it offer the
same advantages as a military post which it now does
as a religious, he would send fifty thousand men across
the Alps to occupy it.
H 2




:178            M;IMSN  AS-D TNINGS
Departurm            The: Sabbatr.          FPlm Tew
CHAPTER X'XI'X.
Departure from Turin.-Ascent of the Alps.-Changes in Vegetation.
-A Stream from the Clouds. —Going down the Alps.-Our Fellow-travelers: their Testimony as to Rome. - Chambiry. -Les
Chiarmettes.-Priests abound;.-Holy Hill.-Praying in a Hurry.To Geneva.-.First View.-Obvious. Difference.-Friends. in a far
Country.
WE took our departure from  Turin with the most
pleasant impressions as to the: city, the government,, and
the people.  The priests were fewer than we: had met
in any Italian city, which may partly account for the
fact that we saw no beggars there. But there is: no
Sabbath there.. The people are in form Papists; some
go, to mass in the: morning —al ridpe or strol about in
the afternoon —and all places of amusement are open
in the evening, which are usually thronged. Such is
the effect of Popery every where. In a fine coach we
were soon beyond the city lines, and on the magnificent
road to Chambery, along which on either side flowed
a little streamlet for the purposes of irrigation. The
city was behind us-the Superga, a church crowning
the highest point of the Collina, and in which the royal
family is buried, was on one side of us; and the Alps,
with their snow-clad summits, formed a crescent before us. The air was hot-the valley was laden with
a rich harvest; the hay and the grain was every where
in the process of collection, and yet the snows of win.
ter glittered upon all the mountains! As we entered




AS SEEN IN EUROPr.              179
Changes.             Ascent.              An assault.
the gorges of the Alps, the scenery became bold and
grand beyond: description; the air became cool, then
cold, then colder, and by twelve at night we breathed
the air of December, and in the region of eternal snows!
What a transition in the brief space of about six hours-!
We ascended the steep mountains, over which, when
viewed from below, it would seem  impossible for a
bird to fly, by a cork-screw roadl of astonishing formation, up which the horses trotted all the way! We
passed from a mid-summer to a mid-winter climate,
witnessing the corresponding changes of vegetation all
the' way. On the plains of the Po they were' collecting
a-rich harvest.  Soon we saw the grain in the green
ear-soon' in the blade, ands higher up the farmer was
planting.  Soon' the grape gave way to the pine of
stunted growth, and soon- every thing gave way to the
barren rock and to: eternal: snow. The moon was full
and cloudless, and so brilliant was its shining, that
through all the watches of the night we could see
"Hills o'er hills, and Alps o'er Alps arise."
As we turned a certain curve in the road there towered
4a hill, at least a thousand feet above us, and from its
very summit there came' dashing a stream of water,
which floated in the' air like a ribbon for a little space,
then was lost to the eye in mist or spray, then, touching a' projecting part of the rock, it condensed again
into a stream, hnd came foaming across our way! My
friend was sleeping by my' side. When this sight suddenly opened on us, I gave hirri a rouser with my elbow. He seemed not to relish the interruption of his
repose; but when I pointed him to the, cause of my
sudden assault upon his ribs, with a most emphatic




180            MEN AND THINGS
Descent of the Alps.  Lady travelers.     Anecdotes.
exclamation, "See there!" he was satisfied. I can assure my readers that I slept not a moment on the night
we crossed Mount Cenis.
As the day began to dawn, which must have been
about three o'clock, we passed the summit level, and
commenced descending from our eagle height. As
there was a: strong opposition on the road, the driving
was furious; and we thundered down the Alps with
astonishing rapidity. Soon we reached the culture of
April-soon the verdure of May and June; soon we
saw the vine covering all the hills-soon we came to
harvest-fields, such as we had left on the Po; and
when we drove into the streets of Chambery amid
branches of green trees scattered over the streets, and
adorning all the houses, marking a f6te-day of Popery,
the thermometer was again at 85~.
In this ride across the Alps, we had as our companions a Prussian countess and her maid of honor, both
remarkably intelligent, and on their return from quite
a sojourn in Rome. They were frank and communicative, and told us many things to illustrate the piety
and purity of Romish priests. A few days after they
entered Rome they were visited by a priest, who begged
from them five scudi to assist a very afflicted family!
lie was a padre notorious for thus sustaining himself
and his indolent brethren by collecting money under
false pretenses. And yet he was not unfrocked! They
also told of the daughter of a most tyrannical father,
who wrote a letter to one of the cardinals that she
could not endure longer the conduct of her parent, and
stating her strong desire to enter a nunnery. In a few
days the father died by poison. The daughter and a




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              181.
Priestly villainy.     Chamb6ry..        Rousseau.
brother were arrested on suspicion 7 the letter was given
in testimony against them, and they were found guilty
of patricide; and the vast property of the father reverted to the priests! And it was the current belief
that the priests poisoned the father! They also narrated a long story of a widow lady with whom they
were on familiar intercourse.  On the death of her
husband, she repaired to Rome to enjoy the opportunities of devotion and seclusion which, she thought, it presented; but was soon compelled to retire from it because of the shameful conduct of her father confessor.
Unless all testimony of natives and sojourners is utterly
false, the priests of Rome are sinners above all men that
live on the earth.
Chambery is the capital of, Savoy, and although
pleasant for situation, is a town of mean appearance.
It has one good street, but the rest are dark, dirty,
narrow, and sombre. Near this place, and on a pleasant hill commanding a fine view, is the country house
of "' Les Charmettes," once the residence of Madamne
de Warens and Rousseau. But as the day was hot,
and as my dislike for the man almost borders on detestation, I declined a pilgrimage to his residence. Although containing but about ten thousand inhabitants,
Chambery has fourteen convents, a Jesuit college, and
priests and nuns out of all proportion to the number of
the people. Hence the dilapidated appearance of the
place and the beggarly appearance of the people. Why
is it thkt priests and beggars go together?  On an
eminence near the town is a building containing a
dead Christ, and on the pleasant way ascending to it
are several little shrines, each containing a picture of




182            MEN AND THINGS
Indulgences.      A padre at vespers.    An inference.
some scene in the suffering of Christ; and to all pray.
ing at these shrines and worshiping the picture in the
building which surmounts the hill, the same indulgences are promised which are granted to those who
visit the holy shrines at Jerusalem! And poor people
in dozens are seen daily piously ascending the hill
to earn indulgences, and going cheerfully down it to
revelry and indulgence! I stood for some time before
one of the convents to gaze upon the padres as they
passed in and out. The day was warm, and the windows were up. I was especially struck with the appearance of a good-looking man wearing a priest's cap
and robe, who with quick step walked up and down
an entry, reading his missal with railway speed. I
could hear his voice, and, when he came to the window,
couldi see his lips move. I never saw a man in such a
hurry to get through his vespers. As it was about six
in the evening, it was these he must have been repeating. And although in such a pressing hurry to end
the formulary, he would stop and measure us with his
black eye, but ceased not the utterance of his pater
nosters. He seemed in as much hurry as if he had
earned an indulgence, and desired to be away to practice it. Unless his eye and Burgundy face bore false
witness against him, he could sin and pray with equal
rapidity.
We spent a night in Chamb6ry, and were off for
Geneva in the morning, accompanied by our Prussian
countess, between whom and one of our party there
sprung up quite a social and agreeable intercourse.
We passed a finely cultivated valley to Aix-la-Bains, a
celebrated bathing establishment. Thence we pro



AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              183
To Geneva.          First view.         The transition.
ceeded through Annecy, where lie the holy relics of
St. Francis de Sales, to Geneva. The whole ride is a
very fine one, through a very highly cultivated country,
and rich in historical reminiscences. From Charnbery
to Geneva you are at no time out of sight of the snowy
Alps. About four P. M. we reached the summit of the
hill, whence we had the first view of the lake, and of
the city of Geneva. The sun shone brightly, the air
was clear, and they lay in loveliness beneath us. Soon
we passed the line which separates the kingdom of
Sardinia and the canton of Geneva-a Papal and Protestant state-and were in Switzerland proper. The
change in the appearance of the people was instantaneous. The moment you pass the gate you feel that
you are in a Protestant country. You leave the beggars on one side of it; you meet a well-clad, industrious, and self-sustaining people on the other. Villas,
increasing in sumptuousness and beauty, multiplied as
we approached the city.  Soon we entered its wallsfor even Geneva is strongly fortified-and were rolled
through clean streets filled with an active, industrious
people, to the Hotel de la Couronne, which is upon the
lake, and overlooks its beautiful waters.  We were
now out of Italy, where reigns the very midnight of
Popery, and in a free Protestant city, for centuries the
bulwark of civil and religious liberty, and sacred to
multitudes in all the earth, because of its association
with the great Calvin,.who was to the Reformers what
Paul was to the Apostles, the most intellectual, and
best educated of them all. Here we soon were in the
embraces of dear Christian friends and acquaintances,
from  some of whom we separated in London, from




154           MEN AND THINGS
Meeting at Geneva.
others in Paris, and some of whom, on their return
from the East, we first met here, making a most intelligent and agreeable American party. And it was
pleasant to talk and laugh again in English, and in
our own mother tongue to tell of our travels and adventures. We began again to enjoy the luxury of a
home feeling.




AS SEEN  IN  EUROPE.               185
Geneva.            Streets.            Mont Blanc on a table
CHAPTER XXX.
Geneva: its Attractions. - Miniature of Mont Blanc. - Missionary
Anniversary.-The Oratoire.-A Drive up the Lake.-Ferney.Voltaire. - Magnificent View. - A Soir6e. - Dr. Malan. - D'Aubign6.-Gaussen.-La Harpe.-St. George.-Talk through an Interpreter.-Polite Interchange.-Love-feasts.
GENEVA has been many times described by travelers.
Its great history and enchanting locality are sufficient to
inspire dullness itself to try its hand at painting. It is on
the southwest extremity of the Lake of Geneva, where
the Rhone shoots out from the lake, dividing the city
into two parts.  These parts are united by bridges, so
constructed as to add greatly to the beauty of the
scene.  The town is chiefly built on the left bank of
the river, and rises gradually from  the banks of the
lake and river, so as to present a most beautiful appearance from the water.  The streets are mostly narrow, and often very steep, and in the more elevated
parts of the city there are many very fine residences.
But the great attractions of the place lie in its history,
and in its extended and beautiful environs.
Our first day in the city of Calvin was a very busy
one, and was spent in a very miscellaneous way. A
model of Mont Blanc was placarded all over the city
for exhibition!  We went to see it-like fools.  We
might as well have gone to see a cup of salt water as
a specimen of the ocean!  There 3Mont Blanc lay
upon a table, and we could have secured a cabinet




186            MEN AND THINGS
Oratoire.         Anniversary.        Enchanting view.
edition to carry to America! Thence we went to the
Oratoire, the church where the theological professors,
D'Aubign6, Gaussen, La Harpe, and others worship, to
attend the anniversary of the Society for Missions. We
saw there most of the evangelical pastors of the city
and vicinity. Every thing was simple -ministers
without gowns-extempore prayer —singing without
instrumental music —pews like the seats in our lec.
ture-rooms — and a pulpit with a small soundingboard. The church is on one of the highest points of
the city-difficult of access to strangers who crowd the
hotels on the lake, and in a position which would not
attract a New York audience, which.considers a fine
church, on a fine street, and easy of access, as absolutely necessary to acceptable worship. At about six
in the afternoon we crossed the bridge under which
the'" arrowy Rhone," here of'indigo color, shoots from
the lake, and drove up its bank in the direction of
Ferney.  Ever since the perusal of Macaulay's review
of Frederick the Great, I have held Voltaire in the
most sovereign contempt, and would not go a rod to
visit his residence, which I saw in the distance. I gave
my reasons to my companions, which were deemed satisfactory. We ascended a hill to witness the effect of
the setting sun upon the surrounding scenery. The
Jura range was on the west, over which a bright and
cloudless sun hung suspended.  Lake Lehman lay in
beauty beneath us; on its opposite banks were villas
an(l vineyards rising one above another in beautiful
perspective; and skirting the distant horizon rose the
fleecy Mont Blanc, piercing the heavens with its sharp
and broken points. Although fifty miles in the distance,




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              187
Sunset.    Soir6e.     Dr. Malan.    Dr. Merle d'Aubign6.
it seemed as just on the opposite side of the lake! As
the sun declined, a blush appeared upon its pale, cold
visage —that blush deepened every moment; and when
the sun fell behind the Jura, the whole snowy range
of Mont Blanc seemed in a blaze of fire.  As the
twilight came along, bringing night in its train, those
distant fires died away as gradually as they were kindled, and " the monarch of mountains" looked down
upon us as coldly as ever. No such magnificent view
do I ever expect to take again.  Our guide informed
us that there are not ten days in the year on which
the sight is seen to such perfection as we saw it. The
effect upon us all was enchanting.  We would say to
every traveler, if necessary, wait a month at Geneva
to see this sight.
We returned from this scene to one of a very different character, but yet equally gratifying to our feelings
and tastes-a soir6e, got up by the Missionary Society
whose anniversary we attended in the afternoon. It
was held in a hall provided for the purpose, and was
fully attended. There was Dr. Malan, thin, of medium
height, brisk in appearance, frank, and social, with
hair white as Alpine snows flowing over his shoulders.
And there was Dr. Merle d'Aubign6, large and full in
stature, with heavy countenance, reserved, rather patronizing in his air, more English than French in his
whole appearance, and seemingly impressed with the
idea that he is rather a lion than otherwise. And
there was Professor Gaussen, of middle stature, full
habit, pleasant manners,:er gray, with a round
French face. And there was Professor La Harpe,
youthful, manly in all his developments, with a plump




188            MEN AND THINGS
La Harpe.          St. George.         Speech-making.
red and white cheek, more suggestive of " the sweetest
isle of the ocean" than of the loveliest lake in the world.
And there was Count de Saint George, tall, thin,
youthful in appearance, bland in his manners, with
rather a wealthy and aristocratic air, but by no means
up to the offensive point. These were among the notables present.  Ladies were there, ministering spirits,
in large numbers. After the process of serving tea
was ended, a psalm was sung with much spirit, the
Scriptures were read, and prayer was offered, during
which all stood.  The plan was. to have a brief address from some one from each of the countries there
represented; and when the Americans were called on,
they were so kind, or unkind, as to send me forth as
their representative. I made a talk for about ten
minutes, and was interpreted by a gentleman of the
company-the first time I ever spoke to an assembly
through an interpreter, nor shall I be sorry should it
be my last. Although I knew not what I had said
when I sat down, I was soon brought to my feet again
by an address from the chair, thanking me in behalf
of the meeting for my interesting and eloquent address
on the occasion. Half suspecting that it might be a
bit of French politeness, which sometimes induces to
put the more abundant honor on the part that.lacketh,
I utterly declined to accept of their thanks on the
grounds on which they were offered, stating that if
any thing eloquent or worthy of their attention was
uttered, it was interlardeS   my interpreter, and that
I would therefore hand,    the thanks to him. If
making fun at my expense, I determined that they
should not. have it all to themselves.




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              189
Committee of the Whole.  Breakfasts.      Love-feasts.
Soon after this passage at small arms the assembly
dissolved itself into a Committee of the Whole, when
we were introduced to gentlemen and ladies from the
different cantons of Switzerland, from Germany,
France, Italy, and Britain.  Captain Packenham, the
true-hearted Christian, exiled from Rome, where he
was once a banker for the circulation of the Scriptures,
was there, and gave a most interesting account of the
good work of reformation in progress in Florence. On
the whole, I was greatly gratified with this evening's
entertainment. It was pleasant, social, cheerful, and
yet pervaded by a truly religious spirit. They have a
way of doing things in this manner in Britain, and here
and there on the Continent, which might be introduced
into our own country with happy effect. Their " breakfasts" in London, Edinburgh, Belfast, and Dublin
accomplish much good. Meeting at a tea-table for an
hour before a religious anniversary, where the speakers
are introduced, compare notes, imbibe each other's
spirit, so as to go out on the platform with a common
feeling, and an acquaintance formed at a social repast,
would relieve the dullness of many a May meeting in
New York, and would greatly tend to cement Christiahs of variofs names together.  These are " lovefeasts" that might be safely and profitably introduced
among us. The tea-drinking in a room in Exeter
Hall, which preceded the meeting of the London Tract
Society, where noble men representing the different
branches of the Church spent an hour in pleasant
social intercourse, I will never forget-as I can never
forget the soir6e in Geneva.
We returned to our lodgings at about eleven o'clock




190            MEN AND THINGS
Author of History of the Reformation.
in the evening, greatly gratified with our first day
spent in Geneva. We all regretted that D'Aubigne
did not sustain the impressions made on us by his noble History of the Reformation. If we act toward
him, when he visits America, as he did toward the
company of American clergy at that soir6e, he will
write us down as boors. He is getting up some fame
for his incivilities, especially toward Americans. His
History of the Reformation has given him a wide reputation, and, to save himself from the annoyances which
are the tax of fame, he should not turn clown.




AS SEEN  IN EUROPE.              191
For Chamouny.           Change.            Bonneville.
CHAPTER XXXI.
For Chamouny.-Enter Sardinia. —Obvious Change. —Fete at Bonneville. - The Ravine. - Fall d'Arpenaz.- Bridge at St. Martin's:
its View.- Selling Echoes.- Ascent of Montanvert.- Mer de
Glace.-Cracks in the Ice. —View from the Cottage.-Snow-balling.-Salanche.-Return to Geneva.
AFTER an early breakfast we started, nine strong,
and all from America, for Chamouny, a word which,
however spelled, means always the same place. The
world has but one Chamouny.  In two carriages we
soon passed the gates of the city, rode rapidly through
the pleasant environs beyond, and at the distance of a
few miles crossed a little stream which separates Geneva from Sardinia — an ancient Protestant republic
from an ancient Papal kingdom. The change in the
people was again observable, as when we entered Ge.
neva from Sardinia. Soon we were met by beggars in
all stages of rags and mutilation, and only got rid of
them on our return to the city of Calvin. The day
was balmy and cloudless. We observed by the idleness of the people —their standing in groups here and
there-and by the branches of trees standing against
houses, and suspended from windows-that something
was going on. As we approached Bonneville, the
road was thick with people crowding to the old town.
It was a fete day of Popery, but in honor of what god
or goddess I could not learn. We stopped to dine, and
to witness the gay and utterly ridicu~lous pageant




192             MEN AND THINGS
A procession.        Manceuvres.          Faith in God.
At the ringing of a bell a procession commenced moving from the village church. It was headed by women
in white robes. These were followed by children,
neatly dressed, bearing baskets of rose-leaves; these
by children bearing censers; these by priests fat and
well-fed; these by a large, ruby-faced bishop, bearing
the host under a splendid canopy: behind the canopy
marched the civil officers of the place, who were followed by a vast concourse of people. It was now mid-day, and the sun was hot, and the road very dusty.
At certain signs the whole mass of the people knelt in
the dust —rose again —turned to the right or lefthalted or marched. The master of ceremonies sounded
a whistle, and the boys scattered lEaves for the priests
and bishop to walk on, or they turned round and offered incense to the bishop and host. The soldiers
were present in great numbers, and in full uniform,
and saluted the host with volleys of musketry as it
approached. And when the bishop stopped, as he frequentlysdid, and turned round the host so as  to face
the soldiers, they all fell instantly on their knees, save.the officers, who leaned on their swords with their faces
to the earth. After parading the streets in this-way
for some time, the bishop and priests returned to the
church, and the people and soldiers went to drink and
to play. When the exhibition was over the streets
were full of revelry. And with such mountebank exhibitions as these, gotten up by the priests to delude
the people, the Papal world is full. And belief in this,
and all its kindred nonsense, is what the priests call
faith in God!
Thoroughly disgufsted with this priestly ceremony,




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              193
Ravine.          D'Arpenaz.          View from a bridge.
we resumed our journey, and after crossing the Arve
several times on noble bridges, and passing through
some towns of but little note, we entered a defile beneath towering, and often overhanging precipices,
which mark the first grand entrance into the great
Alpine ravine. And now our road lay on the banks
of the Arve, which flows between mountains often
8000 feet high, and sometimes rising from either bank
like walls! Soon the waterfall D'Arpenaz, the highest in Savoy, rose to view, which, like that seen crossing
Mont Cenis from Turin, leaps out from the very summit of the mountain, is broken into spray and lost- to
the sight; condenses on the rocks below, and rushes
under a bridge into the Arve. It forms an object of
great beauty. Beyond this jeu d'eau, the valley widens, and rich fields spread up the sides of the snowcapped mountains to: Salanche. Here is a bridge crossing the Arve, on one side of which is the dirty town of
St. Martin, and on the other the not vety magnificent
one of Salanche; and from that bridge we caught our
first near view of Mont Blanc, and the one that most
deeply impressed us. In looking up the valley, beyond
the wintery bed of the Arve, rises the mountain of Forclaz, its sides clothed with pine, and its summit with
pasturage.  Above that rises the Aiguille de Gout6,
and the Dome de Gout6, white as can be. And'yet
beyond and above these, Mont Blanc towers to the
clouds, presenting a sight worth a voyage round the
world to see! It is here every feeling of your soul responds to the glorious description of the poet:
" Mont Blanc is the monarch of mountains;
They crown'd him long ago,'
I




194           MEN AND THINGS
Our journey.       Making echoes.       Boys beaten.
On a throne of rocks, in a robe of clouds,
With a diadem of snow."
What a pity Coleridge did not date his immortal hymn
at this bridge, instead of in the vale of Chamouny,
where the " monarch" is entirely hid from view!
Herd we left our carriages for that vehicle peculiar to
this mountain country, called char-a-banc, in which
we pursued our course to the trale along a gorge wondrous all the way, We never left the sound of the
dashing Arve, nor the sight of snow and rich verdure!
At a turn in the road where a high bridge is crossed,.and where 1ll travelers have to work their passage up
a very steep hill, we were surrounded by boys who
wished to sell us some echoes. One would shoot a
gun, and you would hear it cracking off niany times
among the hills. Another would sound his horn, and
the mountains promptly and repeatedly replied. And
then, hat or cap in hand, they would most resolutely
importune you. Not knowing how-to get rid of them,
and not willing to encourage vagrants, against whom
guide-books and travelers warn you, I ascended a hill,
and after a full inflating of my lungs, let go a shout
which woke up all the mountains. The boys stood
aghast, and pushing my advantage, I took off my hat
and commenced begging them in turn! They were
completely routed, and followed us no farther. They
found I could make my own echoes, and had no need
to buy any. We reached the vale before ten o'clock
at night, shivering with cold, although, judging from
our feelings, the thermometer must have been 85~ during the afternoon.
We made all our preparations for an early ascent of




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.             195
A resolve.         Mer de Glace.         An incident.
Montanvert. We arranged as to our mules and guides
on our arrival, and as the former were rather scarce,
myself and a friend agreed to take one between us.
This I liked very well when it was my turn to ride;
Out when I had to walk, I resolved most firmly to have
a mule to myself the next time I went up that steep
path. Through all kinds of paths but pleasant onespicking our way amid rocks aand stones-now crossing
the pathway of the avalanche-now threading a corkscrew path up a steep spot-now sheltered by pinesnow passing through a pasturage of sheep, and now
passing through snow-banks rising six feet high on
either hand, we finally gained the cottage on the summit of the mountain. It was wonderful to see the
dexterity and unerring accuracy of the mules through
every step of the way. Not once did they stumble or
tread upon a loose stone. We descended on the other
side of the cottage to the far-famed " Mer de Glace."
This is a ravine winding among the mountains for
many leagues, and filled with ice at some points three
hundred feet thick! We crossed this enormous sea of
ice nearly to the opposite mountain; we kneeled by its
enormous cracks and looked down through them into
the profound depths, and could hear the glacier torrent
battling its way at the bottom. A man once fell into
one of these cracks, whose body no effort could recover.
Many years afterward, as we were told by the guides, a
boy fell into the same crack, and in fishing for the boy
they drew up the man, and so undecayed that his
friends could recognize him! His body was so frozen
as to prevent the process of corruption. The view from
Montanvert is wild and grand beyond description.




196:MEN AND THINGS
Views at Montanvert.                   Snow-balling.
Beneath is the vale of Chamouny, reposing in beauty,
beyond which rises the Fl6gere, robed in white; on the
other side of you lies the IMier de Glace, one of the
wonders of the world; and beyond and around it rise
those Alpine needles called Aiguille du Dru, Aiguillei
du Moine, and the Aiguille Vert, which is 13,000 feet
above the level of the: ocean, and which stretches up
before you toward the stars 7000 feet from the place
where you are standing.:Behind those needles, and
concealed by them from our view, Mont Blanc reposed
in serene majesty, lifting its sky-pointing peaks nearer
than any of them toward the throne of its glorious
Creator.
It was enough. After feasting our eyes upon the
wild grandeur by which we were surrounded, we commenced our descent, partly on foot, partly on our mules.
And that we might be enabled to tell of it to our friends,
myself and two ladies had a regular snow-balling on
the 21st day of June, on our return to the vale below.
We returned to Salanche in the evening, where,
with Mont Blanc in full view from our window, and
surrounded with other peaks clothed in snow, we
spent a pleasant night. After an early breakfast, we
resumed our carriages on our return to Geneva, feeling
that we had seen sights which, beyond any that we
had ever seen, display the greatness, the glory, the
omnipotence of Jehovah.




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.                197
Geneva.               Calvin.              His character.
CHAPTER XXXII.
Geneva: its Influence.-Calvin: his System. -Knox.-Sunday in
Geneva.-The' Market-place.-St. Peter's.-Gaussen in the Oratoire.-Cathedral Services. —Dr. Malan's Chapel.-An Evening
with his Family.-Sabbath Desecration.-Importance of rightly
sanctifying the Sabbath.-To whom re owe its true Keeping.
WE returned from  Mont Blanc for the purpose of
spending a Sabbath in the city of Calvin, and of seeing
more of its'sights. Small as is the town, and secluded
as it is between the Jura and the Alps, its political in.
fluence upon Europe, and its religious influence upon
the world, have been vast. Right or wrong, John Calvin, who found here a home and a grave, was a great
man.  In proof of this we present his Institutes, which,
considering he Was educated a Papist, and for the bar,
and that they were published while he was yet under
thirty years of age, form an enduring monument to his
memory.  In profound thought, in scriptural knowledge, in acute discrimination, in severe analysis, in
close logical processes, where or by whom  have they
been surpassed?  We are no advocates for the religious
or political errors of Calvin; he himself taught strongly
the doctrine of human fallibility-those called by his
name can afford to confess that in some th ings he erred;
but his most bitter opponents must grant to him  a
most powerful and far-reaching intellect.  And because founded on Scripture and reason, his doctrines
and polity have undergone less change, and now need




198            MEN AND THINGS
Calvin's grave.       His monument.'       Knox.
less mending than do those of any other branch of the
Church of the Reformation. You are shown the house
in which he lived, and in which he died; but the spot
of his burial, like that of Moses, is unknown. The
severity he exercised toward others he practiced toward
himself, and carried out as to his own memory. Wishing no pilgrimages to his grave by future generations,
he forbade the Genevese to mark his grave in any way.
His monument is the system of truth which he unfolded, and which it is far easier to calumniate than to
confute.  To him, more perhaps than to any other
man, are we indebted for those most important and
glorious- institutions, " a Church without a bishop, and
a state without a king."  The services he rendered in
these directions to the world make a great atonement
for his severity and errors.
Here too it was, and under the teachings of Calvin,
that John Knox, an exile for the truth, lit his lampthe lamp which illumined Scotland, which, in a religious point of view, is the glory of all lands.
The Sabbath sun rose beautifully over the Alps, and
shone warmly and without a cloud upon the lake, the
city, and the Jura Mountains. We went at ten o'clock
to the Oratoire, but the services were just ending as
we reached it, having commenced at the early hour of
eight o'clock. In our way we passed through the great
market-place, which was thronged with peasants from
the country, in a rustic and peculiar garb, every one
bearing a stick laced to his back, and extending about
a foot above his head. They stood in rows like soldiers,
and neither moved nor conversed. After some inquiry,
I learned that they were mowers from the surrounding




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              199
Sabbath in Geneva.     Cathedral.        Dr. Gaussen.
country, who cams there to be hired, as it was now
the season for cutting hay; and they stood in the market-place ready to be hired.  On our return from church
we passed through the same market-place, and found
but few of them left.  Tie stick laced to their back
was the handle of their scythes.
We repaired to the Cathedral of St. Peter's, one of
the most conspicuous objects of the city. It is simple
in its architecture, very capacious, and contains few
objects worthy of interest. It was here Calvin preached with such power and effect, that profligacy was
compelled to hide its head. It is now in the possession
of the Church of the Canton, and its preachers are
Unitarian. The place was chilly, although the day was
hot; benches for pews, but few in attendance; not a
person occupied the fine seats prepared for the city
authorities, opposite the pulpit: there was an organ at
one end of the building, and a chorister under the pulpit. The preacher seemed remarkably animated and
fluent, and used no notes. The people seemed uninterested. There was nothing to interest us in the
service, nor in the people, nor in the place, save that Calvin and his companions uttered truths within these
walls which made, and still make, Rome tremble, and
which will live forever. Thence we returned to the Oratoire, and spent a most interesting hour in hearing Dr.
Gaussen instructing a very large congregation of young
people in the Bible by way of question and answer.
To us it was gratifying to see so few in the Cathedral
listening to the errors of Socinianism, and to see the
Oratoire so crowyded, and with the young, where the
simple truth as it is in Jesus is so faithfully proclaimed.




200            MEN AND THINGS
Cathedral service.   Dr. Malan's chapel. s  Service.
I know not why nor how it is, but Cathedral worship is substantially the same every where. Whether
performed at St. Peter's or St. John Lateran, at Rome;
or at St. Paul's or Westminster Abbey, in London; or
at St. Peter's, in Geneva; or in the old Cathedral in
Glasgow, it is the same cold, formal, drawling service,
which neither stimulates the mind nor warms the
heart. And they seem every where alike deserted, by
Papists, Episcopalians, and Presbyterians, save when
some novelty attracts a crowd. We learn that even
at old Trinity, in New York, the audience at matins
and vespers is often not more than twice as large, deducting officials, as was that of Dean Swift's, when
reduced to " dearly beloved Roger."  The world will
not be much the loser when drawling Cathedral services of every kind shall come to a perpetual end. They
were instituted in days of darkness by indolent priests,
for an ignorant people. We know not a solitary benefit they confer on the race, while they do much to sustain priestly arrogance and to perpetuate superstition.
At five P.M. we went, in company with two friends,
to the chapel of the Rev. Dr. Malan. It is a small
building within the inclosure of his own premises, and
of the very plainest construction.  And small as it is,
it was not crowded.  Over its door is this inscription,
in French, " Jesus said unto those that loved him,
Mly peace I leave unto you, my peace I give unto you."'
The service was in French, and in form like unto that
which obtains in all Presbyterian churches.  The
manner of the doctor was solemn, but stiff; and his
utterance was fluent and vivacious. - On his kind invitation, we spent the evening with his family, and a




AS' SEEN IN EUROPE.             201
Chat under the elms..:                  Family service,
charming family it is, all of them speaking English
most fluently. In an interview with him under his
magnificent elms,'I learned from him that he held
connection neither with the state nor the evangelical
party.  The state party he considers corrupt to the
core, and the- evangelical party as far too lax in dootrine and discipline.  "I am," said he," alPrinceton
man, and I can not unite with the evangelical party in
many things." And on learning that I was educated
in Princetonj and that my mind was first arrested to
the consideration of religious things by the preaching
of Dr. John M. Mason, of New York, no longer able to
contain his feelings, he most lovingly embraced me.
After tea was served, the family was collected. for
Worships One played upon the piano, and all sung.
IHe himself led in prayer, in French, until he came to
invoke God's blessings upon his guests, and their country, and friends, when he at once used the English.
When supplication on our behalf was concluded, he
resumed the French.  The whole service was unique
and altogether delightful.  When prayers were ended
we all drew round a centre-table, on which was placed
a basket with slips of-paper,, on which were written
texts of Scripture as mottoes. Each person, in their
turn, drew a slip from the basket, and the text it contained was explained with some reference to the person
drawing it. This was, for at least an hour, a source of
amusement, interest, and instruction. And the whole
was ended by each person around the table making
some contribution to the cause of missions. A more
sweet, Christian, simple, cultivated family we have
never met. As we retired from the lovely circle never
I 2




202           ME.N AND THINGS
Sabbath desecration.                 Calvin's conduct.
more, probably, to see the venerable patriarch who
presides over it, we could forgive the sentence painted
over his door, and which first, offended, because seemingly too ostentatious: " Mais pour moi et ma maison
nous servirons l'Eternel;" as for me and my house,
we will serve the Lord.
Because of the large infusion of a Popish population, and of the proverbially lax views of the Continental reformers as to the Lord's day, the Sabbath is sadly
desecrated in Geneva. They were erecting, vis-a-vis
to our hotel on the right bank of the Rhone, a very large
building, to accommodate the throngs brought together
by their periodical shooting-match, where the cantons
are all represented by their best marksmen. And from
the dawning of the Sabbath's sun to its setting, they
were working on the building, and in every direction
they were practicing on the rifle. We have already
described the scene witnessed in the market-place.
The shops were every where open, and people were
buying and selling.  My friend took a walk through
some of the fashionable promenades, and outside the
walls of the city, during the evening,, and he testifies
that he witnessed no Sabbath desecration in Paris to
surpass that of Geneva, especially beyond the walls.
Mortified with Parisian laxness where we expected
Scotch or New England strictness in the observance
of the Lord's day, we made inquiry as to its cause, and
we were informed that Calvin himself, for the purpose
of bearing testimony against Judaizing views of the
Sabbath, would often go through the markets and stores
of the city, making purchases as on any other day of
the week! Having heard this, and learning that the




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              203
Lax views.       Extremes.        Defenders of the Sabbath.
evangelical clergy of the city entertained the lax views
of Calvin, we could account for the Sabbath desecration on all sides visible around us.
While there is a narrow and ceremonial view of the
Sabbath, which makes it a day of gloom instead of the
"pearl of days," there is also a lax view of it, which
tends to make it more a day of pleasure than of devotion. And it is very remarkable to what a degree the
maintenance, and the transmission from one generation
to another, of pure, and simple, and spiritual Christianity, are conniected with the true sanctification of the
Sabbath day. We owe its sanctification, under God,
not to Luther, or Calvin, or to the Continental reformers,
-but to English Puritans and Scotch Presbyterians. And
we owe to these many other things which are now
blessing the Church and the world.




204              MEN  AND  THINGS
Up the Lake.             Lausanne.                View.
C HAP T E R  XXXIII.
Up Lake Lehman.-Lausanne.-Farrel.-Priestly Profligacy. —Captain Packenham. - His Definition. - Neufchatel. - Needed Reformation. -Farrel's Visit.-His Grave.-To Basle: its Appearance
-its History-its Reformation.-CEcolampadius.-Erasmus.
AT nine o'clock in the morning the "Aigle" turned
her prow up Lake Lehman, and in a short time Geneva faded away from our view.  We gazed upon it,
beautiful for situation, until we could see it no more.
The lake was quiet as a sleeping child; it rained heavily, and straight from  above; and the Alps and the
Jura Mountains, on our right and left, were robed in
clouds. On a clear day this is a sail of great beauty.
Before reaching Lausanne, the rain ceased, the clouds
soon passed away, and the capital of the Canton de
Vaud rose beautifully on our view.
Lausanne lies on the slope of a hill, which rises
gradually from the lake, and at the distance of about
two miles from the place of landing.  It is intersected by several deep ravines, giving it the appearance of
distinct villages. The streets are up and down, and
some of them so steep as to be utterly impassable by
carriages.  But from some of the high points, as from
the terrace of the old Cathedral, the view of the city,
the lake, the distant Alps, is very fine. Cooper, our
greatest American novelist, says of a point above this
city, that " it offers one of the grandest landscapes of
this noblest of earthly regions." You are shown the




AS SEEN  IN EUROPE.              205
Gibbon.           Profligate priests.      Packenham.
house in which Gibbon concluded his history of the
Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire, the writing
of which was first suggested amid the magnificent ruins
of the Coliseum. This city was the residence of Haller,
Tissot, Voltaire, and Gibbon; it possesses at this day
a most refined society, and is yet the resort of many
foreigners for the education of their children.  Here
Farrel and other Reformers displayed great energy and
eloquence in the promotion of the great work of the
Reformation. It is said that in no part of Europe was
the conduct of the priests so utterly shameless as here.
They would often issue in companies from the bishop's
palace, and from the religious houses, drunk, armed
with rapiers and swords; would murder men and women in the riots that would ensue; and after indulgence
in all kinds of brutal licentiousness, would return to
mass, the missal, and the confessional, where they
would mutually confess, and then absolve one another. The city was under the care of Mary, but Venus
was the divinity:of the priests. The episcopal palace
is yet standing, faded, and deserted by priests and their
prostitutes; but as you gaze upon it, the remembrance
of other days comes over you, and the prayer involuntarily rises from your heart, that the Papal banner may
never again float from its turrets, and that the war-cry
of Sebastian may never again go forth from its halls.
We here met again the warm,: generous, Christian,
and self-sacrificing Captain Packenham, the exile from
Rome and Tuscany because of his efforts to circulate
the Scriptures.  He is an Irishman by birth.  He was
an officer in the Britishb. navy, and he has lived in Italy
until familiar as a native with its language and insti



206           IMEN AND THINGS
A definition.         Neufchatel.           Farrel.
tutions.  "What," said I to him, "is your honest estimate of the Catholic priests of the Continent?" I
never will forget the emphasis and the energy of his
reply.  "Popery and its priests are simply and only
the police of despotism."  This definition should be
hung up where the nations should read it. To all
Americans I would say, "Keep it before the people!"
The fine country between Lausanne and Neufehatel
we traversed at night in a diligence, and reached the
latter city in the early morning. It lies upon a steep
slope of the Jura Mountains, and is famed for its manufacture of poor Burgundy, poor watches, and poor jewelry. And to these poor things I would add, from personal experience, poor hotels and poor fare. The town
seems neither Swiss, French, nor German; but a mixture of them all, and not of the best elements of either;
a kind of patois is spoken, which retains the barbaric,
and drops the refined.
But here was a reformation work of surpassing interest. In that old Cathedral canons of the most depraved character said mass; and in that building above
the town, whose ruins are shown you, the monks of
Fontaine-Andre prayed and reveled. The canons and
monks were at open war. Both were equally wicked.
They kept their mistresses-clothed them sumptuous.
ly-endowed their children-fought in the churchhaunted the streets by night; and, to gratify their
lusts, plundered the people. One day a frail boat was
seen crossing the lake, from which was landed a small,
thin, pale man, with sun-burned complexion, red beard,
sparkling eyes, expressive mouth, his every feature expressive of an iron will. It was Farrel. The canons




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.             207
His preaching.        His grave.           To Basle.
and monks would have hailed a hundred plagues in
preference to him. Forbidden admission to all churches, he mounted a stone, which is yet shown the traveler, and preached to the people. The canons and monks
made a'vigorous defense. Their shaven crowns were
seen every where in the crowd; they supplicated, menaced, threatened, howled; but it was useless. They
sought to -blast his character-then to murder him;
but it was all over with them. The people of Neufchatel received the word of God. And as the sun was
rising over the Alps, and over the lake, at one end of
which this city lies, I was treading the ground on
which Farrel preached, and viewing the old Cathedral
where the canons carried on their orgies-on the terrace of which Farrel was buried, and in which the
doctrines of the Reformation are now preached. If
Geneva is the city of Calvin, Neufchatel is the city of
Farrel. Its historic glory is not in its princes of the
house of Chalons, nor in its subjection to Marshal Berthier, nor yet to the house of Brandenburg, but to its
having received the Gospel, " as if it had but one soul,"
from Farrel. Like the grave of Calvin, there is no
stone to point out the precise spot where his mortal is
waiting the call to put on its immortality.
The ride from Neufehatel to Basle is one of great
beauty at points. The road lies on the shores of lakes
Neufehatel and Bienne; for several miles the waters are
on one side, and the slopes and spurs of the Jura, clad
with vines to their very summits, on the other. We
crossed a low ridge of the Jura by a very fine road, and
soon we struck a stream, which is one of the many
which forms the head waters of the Rhine. Then we




208'           MEN AND THINGS
A fine gorge.          Basle.             Its history
commenced a descent, which continued for hours, down
a road which followed this stream, and through a defile of fearful grandeur. It would seem as if the entire gorge, with its steep banks, must have been the
result of human labor and gunpowder; but that awful
ravine, and the walls of solid rock, that tower to heaven on either side, are the work of the great Architect.
As we emerged, from it, the ruins of old fortifications,
which date back to the days of Caesar, were on either
hand, and a beautiful plain opened before us, over
which we galloped until we passed.,the walls and entered the old city of Basle. Although yet in Switzerland politically, we were now fairly out of it physically. And although bordering on Switzerland, Germany, and France, every traveler would say, on riding
through Basle-on reading the signs over shops and
the names on doors-on witnessing the dress of the females, with ribbons too long and dresses too short-on
seeing the style of architecture, and the variegated
painting of the houses, that it fairly belongs to the
Dutch. None knowing the premises would say that
this would be a violent inference.
Basle has a great history, although not a great place.
It dates back to the fourth century; and because lying
at the head of navigation on the Rhine, it became rich
and powerful. During the Middle Ages it was governed by warlike bishops, whose conflicts with their brethren often devastated the surrounding country. In the
fourteenth century it was first decimated by war; then
ravaged by a plague, from which only three families escaped; and then was laid in ruins by an earthquake 
It had so far recovered from this awful ruin as to be




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              209
Council of Basle.   Reformation.       (ZEcolampadius.
selected as the seat of the great Council which met
there in 1431, which did so much for the moral reformation of the clergy, and which is therefore so much
maligned by the holy, apostolical Church. Would it
not be well for those who tell us of the unity and infallibility of the Papal Church to read again the very
edifying history of this Council of Basle? And there
yet stands the old Cathedral in which that Council sat,
now happily consecrated to the preaching of the Gospel.
It was here the work of reformation, blended with
that of revolution; and although the excitement was
intense, the mass was exchanged for the Gospel without
the shedding of a drop of blood. The people took the
work of reform into their own hands; they entered the
churches, tore down their idols, and burned them in
the street on Ash-Wednesday. " The idols," said the
wags, " are keeping their Ash-Wednesday to-day!" " I
am surprised," said Erasmus, "that they perform no
miracle to save themselves: formerly the saints worked prodigies for much smaller offenses."
In the course of a few weeks, every thing was
changed in this city. The Gospel was preached in all
its churches, and the mass was pronounced an idolatrous rite the moment it was understood by the people.
(Ecolampadius was the great instrument in the hand
of God of this change. And he stands to Basle in the
relation in which Farrel stands to Neufchatel, and Calvin to Geneva.
Basle was the residence of the learned, the time-serving, the vain, the cowardly Erasmus, who favored the
doctrines of the Reformation, and yet wrote against
Luther; who scoffed at Popery, and yet was fretted at




210            MEN AND THINGS
Erasmus.           Zwingle.            Missionary school.
its overthrow. Here, also, is his grave. Here were
born CEcolampadius, Wetstein, Buxtorf, the Bernouillis, and Euler. Here Zwingle was educated. Here
Calvin, Arminius, De Watte, Oken, and others found
refuge from persecution. And here is a missionary
school, which has sent out over all the heathen world
some of the most useful and faithful missionaries now
laboring to gild the earth with the light of the Gospel. Many and noble are the recollections which cluster around the city of Basle.




AS SEEN  IN EUROPE.               211
Lallen Kbnig.         Along the Rhine.        Women.
CHAPTER XXXIV.
Departure from Basle.-Valley of the Rhine.-Variety of Travelers.
-Characteristic Reply. —An Observer.-A Question answered.Strasburg: its wondrous Clock.-Advice to the Priests.-The Cathedral.-An American Prelate.-Jews burned.-Why no Relics.
-Poor Scotland.-Searched. -To Baden-Baden.
AT an early hour in the morning we stepped into an
omnibus, and were driven across the famous old bridge
which connects Basle and Little Basle, and on which
stood the grotesque figure, " Lallen Konig," which, by
the movement of a pendulum, constantly protruded its
tongue and rolled up its goggle eyes, making contemptuous faces at Little Basle. A ride of three miles
through a rich bottom-land brought us to the railway
station, and in a few minutes we were out of Switzerland, perhaps forever.
The railway keeps along, on what we would call
the second bank of the Rhine, and for hours the river,
and its wide, level, and fertile bottom-lands were in
full view.  There are no fences, and but few trees to
obstruct the vision; and at a glance we could see
hundreds of people, men and women, mostly women,
making hay. The view was often picturesque. As
in Italy, the, women here work just as do men, and hire
out in the same way for about twenty dollars a year.
There is no kind of field service which they do not
perform.
One meets abroad with every variety of travelers,




212           MEN AND THINGS
Variety of travelers.  A reply.       All in keeping.
and especially from America. We are a locomotive
people, loving travel beyond any other. Our men of
tact and industry make money rapidly, and spend it
often lavishly and unwisely. But few Europeans
travel save scholars and the aristocracy; but Americans of every grade, if they have the means, will travel,
unless kept at home by some strong antagonistic influence. Hence you meet with some of them in the
Coliseum, utterly ignorant of its great history-and in
St. Peter's, who see there nothing to admire-and paying a thousand francs for a modern daub, as a production of one of the great masters —and seeing nothing
of art in the great frescoes of Angelo in the Sistineand passing unnoticed the "Dying Gladiator."  Hence
the laughable and characteristic reply of an American
merchant, on his return from Rome, when asked by a
friend in Liverpool, ".Well, sir, you have been in Rome,
what do you think of it?"  "Not very much, sir; I
think its public buildings are very sadly out of repair!"
-We had as fellow-traveler down the Rhine one of
these sagacious Americans. He was a general, and
an ex-state senator, and a brewer, according to his own
showing. He was large enough for a general, pompous enough for a senator, and there was a swelling
protuberance beneath his waistcoat which might suggest the. idea that he had swallowed a barrel. He
slept most soundly near me as we flew along our iron
way. I greatly disliked to have him lose the points
of great attraction which were rapidly opening upon
us and as rapidly receding. We turned a curve where
a beautiful panoramic view opened up, and laying my




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.               213
A representative.    Vesuvius forgotten.    Strasburg.
hand upon him, I gave him a hearty shake, exclaiming,
" General, what a beautiful view!" He rubbed his
eyes and looked out for a moment, and as he quietly
composed himself for another sleep, he replied, "I
passed up this way before." After that I gave him
up.  He. was a fit subject for staying at home, and is
a fit representative of a certain class of'travelers.
" Were you at Naples when abroad, sir?" said I to
one of our upper ten.  His reply was characteristic.
" I really forget, sir," said he'; and, turning to one of
his daughters, he asked, "were we, Sarah?" "  yes,"
she blushingly replied;," do you not remember Vesuvius?"  But all traces even of Vesuvius seemed buried
under the lava of dollars and cents.  Why do such
persons travel?
To Strasburg from Basle, the country is very level,
and you are rarely out of vie of the Rhine. We
stopped to see the famous Cathe ra;l, whose immensely
high tower is visible at a great distance. We crossed
the river on a'bridge of boats, the first we had ever
seen, and which recalled the days of Ceasar.  It seemed
as firm as if made of wood or of stone. We met French
soldiers and officers on the opposite bank, who ordered
us out of our little carriage, and searched all its boxes,
and felt over our persons in quest of contraband goods.
Having none, they permitted us to pass on. We soon
crossed the motes, and entered by the ponderous gates
set in the prodigious fortifications which guard this
border town; and as the hour of high noon was approaching, we drove with rapid pace to the chamber of
the famous clock in the Cathedral.
This clock is a wonderful affair, standing as high,




214            MEN AND THINGS
The clock.        Its movements.       Priests advised.
if not'higher, than our largest church organs.  At
twelve o'clock, Death comes out and strikes the hour.
Then commences a series of wonders. The twelve
apostles pass in review before the Savior, who stands
over them with uplifted hands. And a rooster, made
of brass, shakes his wings and crows thrice. If not
perfect, the imitation is very fine. The noise of his
brazen wings and feathers, when clapping them, was
too ringing to be natural. And this clock tells not
only the time of day, but the day of the week, the day
of the month, the month of the year, the changes of
the weather, the phases of the moon, the complicated
movement of the planets; and, in addition, it plays
several tunes and marches by way of pastime. This
clock was constructed by Isaac Habrecht, in reference
to whom many stories are told. It ran down, and got'
out of repair; and:i* years there was no mechanic
that could repair it.i Even Bonaparte took its repair
into consideration. A man was finally found who could
comprehend its wonderfully complicated machinery,
and repair it. And we witnessed, with hundreds of
others, its extraordinary evolutions at twelve o'clock
at noon. As the Cathedral is in the possession of the
Papists, it is a matter of wonder they do not make a
saint out of Isaac Habrecht, and a standing miracle
out of his astonishing mechanism. It seems to me the
priests could make more out of it than out of the bungle of the blood of Januarius, or the winking Madonna
of Rimini. I would advise them to try their hand at
it. The only objection to the effort is the extreme tendency of the German mind to incredulity. Yet there
are many of easy faith with whom they might succeed.




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.             21'5
The Cathedral.        A bishop.          Its history.
When ordered out of the chamber of the clock, we
went through and round the great Cathedral. It has
two towers and but one spire, and that the highest in
the world —higher than the dome of St. Peter's, than
Cheops, the highest pyramid of Egypt. The whole
building is the most distinguished specimen of Gothic
architecture in existence, and its tracery the finest in
the world. After viewing this and the other sights of
the city, we dined at one of the best ordered hotels we
saw in Europe. It was here we met the pedantic little archbishop of Ohio, with a big cross before him, and
a stupid-looking priest acting as lackey, behind him.
We asked some of the waiters who he was, and if his
reverence had only seen some of the grimaces which
they made behind his back, he would have been not
much more pleased than on his recent defeat on the
school question in his own beloved Cincinnati.  They
were either verypoor Papists, or Protestants no better than they ought to be. It requires as much brass
to be a Popish priest now, even in some Papal countries, as it did to be an augur in the waning days of
the superstition of the Roman empire.
Strasburg has its history. It was the Argentoratum
of the Romans, and, because of its position, has been
for centuries a commercial town of considerable importance. Here two thousand Jews were burned on the
suspicion of having poisoned the wells and fountains of
water! Here the art of printing was invented. Here
the Reformation gained some of its earliest triumphs;
and a great portion of the people are yei Lutherans.
Here some terrible revolutionary scenes were enacted.
Here the Marseillaise Hymn was written by De Lisle




216             MEN AND THINGS
Vauban.            No relics.          Ladies suspected.
Here Vauban, famous for his skill in erecting fortifications, earned many laurels. And yet all its lions are
soon seen; and after that, there is nothing to induce a
wish to tarry.  I made some inquiry for relics in the
Papal churches, but could not learn that there were
any.  Somehow or other, holy bones, coats, nails, and
pieces of wood seem to hate Protestants as much as do
the priests; and where there is a strong sprinkling of
unbelievers as in Strasburg, the relics become bashful,
and refuse to obtrude themselves! This may be- the
reason why they abound in Italy, while I know not
that there:is even the holy parings of a holy nail in
Scotland! Poor Scotland!
Again we passed the gates of this old city and the
Rhine; and on the Baden side we were examined by
officers, just as we were on the French side when going
over. These officials s.eemed to mistrust the ladies more
than the men, and on that account pressed their clothes
less tenderly, and scrutinized them more closely.  But
we were soon on the railway, and drew up at BadenBaden about six o'clock in the evening, a town beautiful for situation, and noted as a watering-place. Although the season had scarcely commenced, the streets
were full of people-most of them, like ourselves, stran.
gers.




AS SEEN  IN EUROPE.             217
Baden-Baden.      Conversation          Gambling-room.
CHAPTERl XXXV.
Baden-Baden. — Oonversation House. —The Gambling-room.-The
Manner of the Game, and Gamblers. —Monopoly in Gambling!Hot Springs.-Their Manner of Use.-The new Castle.-Breakfastroom.-Underground Apartments.-Awful History.
AFTER locating ourselves in the H6tel d'Angleterre,
we went forth in the cool of the evening to see BadenBaden. Hill and vale, palace and cottage, splendor
and poverty are mixed up together. So steep are some
of the streets as to render them difficult of ascent on
foot. A dense forest skirts the town, netted by beautiful walks, which adds greatly to the attractions of the
place. Opposite to our hotel, and in the background of
a large green, rose the Conversation House, devoted to
the various purposes of balls, card parties, eating, drinking, srgoking, and gambling. And we saw men and
women engaged in these pursuits, even to the smoking
and gambling!! Very large trees throw a dense shade
over the part of the green in front of the house, and
hundreds were sitting beneath them, of all ages and
sexes, sipping wine, coffee, and ices, in great glee, and
apparently very happy.
But the place which most attracted our attention
here was the famous gambling-room, of which we had
heard much, and which we resolved to see for ourselves.
This room is connected with the Conversation House,
and is finely frescoed and furnished. There are no
green blinds or curtains to conceal persons from view.
K




218            MEN AND THINGS
The process.       *e banker.           The gamblers.
It is on the first floor, beautifully lighted, and exposed
to public view. It is open to all-all may enter it, but
all save those who venture are forbidden to take seats.
We stood at least an hour to witness the operation,
and to study human nature. Piles of gold and silver
lay on the table, and by-the elbows of a man called
"the banker." A machine was there, which was turned rapidly round, out of which a small ball soon dropped upon a board below, which was squared; these
squares were variously colored and numbered. And it
would seem that whether the player won or lost was
determined by the square and the number in which the
ball reposed. As I did not understand the game, I commenced reading the gamblers.  The "banker" uttered
not one syllable during the time I stood there. He
watched the ball, and, as he won or lost, threw out or
raked in the gold or silver. There was no conversation
above a whisper around the table. There was no appeal-no scolding. One man threw down a Napoleon:
he lost it-then two-then three-then five: Jhe lost
them all, and retired obviously disappointed; but not
a word did he utter. An old man threw down five gold
pieces: he lost them, and retired. A man in mid life
with jaunty air threw down three pieces; the banker
paid over: three more he won again and again. He
retired with cheerful countenance; and, as he retired,
the leaden eye of the banker fell upon him; but not a
word was uttered. Some women were seated at the
table, with all the soul they had, both as to quality and
quantity, in the game; but they did not play during
our stay there. That they do play is notorious, and
some of them even stake their virtue when their money




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.             219
Doubtful prize.     Blackleg princes.    Hot springs.
is gone! But s-uch must have lost their virtue before
their money. The winner of such virtue gains a very
doubtful prize.
This was such a sight as I had never previously witnessed. That cold-blooded banker, schooled in crime
and in the art of deception, watching for victims as a
spider for flies —passion rising and falling in his face as
he won or lost, and as quietly as mercury in the thermometer; those victims throwing down their money
in hope, losing it, and going away in despair; those
women, with fingers sparkling with jewels, witnessing
and abetting the whole. 0, if I have ever seen fiends
in human form, I believe it was round that swindling
machine in Baden-Baden! And this gambling-house
belongs to the Duke of Baden, who claims a monopoly
in gambling, and who farms his monopoly to a company in Paris at an enormous yearly rent! How humiliating, that such robbers and blacklegs should rank
among princes! This is a town beautiful for situation,
but its moral atmosphere is contaminating.
The hot springs of Baden form its great attraction
and curiosity.  The main spring issues from the side
of the mountain, which rises over the town, and which
is surmounted by the palace of the reigning duke.
Over this spring is erected a large building, in which is
a large basin for the reception of the water, whose heat
as it issues from the rock is 154 degrees.  The steam
that rises from it is conveyed into apartments for steam
baths. The water is conveyed into others for hot baths,
where it is cooled to the required point. From this reservoir it is conveyed in pipes over the whole town, and
at every corner you see the people drawing hot water.




220            MEN AND THINGS
Drink-hall.        Morning call.-       Under ground.
Indeed, it is conveyed across the river that flows through
the'town to a fine building called the Drink-hall, where
people resort for the waters in the morning, as they do
in Saratoga to the Congress Spring, and where it retains
undiminished its heat and its virtues. The use of these
waters is regulated by law, and none are permitted to
bathe in them without an order from a physician. Unless the system is in a state to require them, bathing
in them is greatly injurious. A single bath gave to a
traveling friend a pair of black eyes, from which he did
not recover for weeks. One cup at the Drink-hall fully
satisfied us. The water smells like poor broth, and has
a salty, alkalish taste.
We made a morning call at the new castle of the
duke, which surmounts the hill, and were shown
through all its apartments. As if for our accommodation, he had just retired from his breakfast-room, that
we might see the table at which a reigning prince sipped coffee. We have seen the breakfast room and table of many in America more-richly furnished. The
upper apartments wore quite an air of poverty, after
having seen those of Versailles, the Quirinal, and Turin. But the underground apartments possess a fearful interest. With lighted torches we went down into
the cellar of the palace; thence, by a spiral, inclined
plane; we went down, down, until, by a door formed of
one huge flag, and fitted to its place with remarkable
exactness, we entered a small, oval room, perhaps ten
feet in diameter, and hewn out of the solid rock. The
door was shut behind us, and we were buried alive under the mountain! A ray of light came from above,
and we could look up as through a narrow chimney; a




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.             221
Fearful room.     Its history.      Kissing the Virgin,
stone was removed beneath our feet, and we could look
down perhaps two or three hundred feet, and could see
a little glimmer of light upon a dashing current of water, whose murmurings came up to us from beneath.
And all around the room were seats cut out of the rock.
And what was the object and history of this awful
room?
Its history, as given us by our guide, and within its
walls, is briefly as follows: In the days of feudal clemency and inquisitorial piety, those suspected of political
or religious heresy were suddenly seized and confined
in some of the adjacent cells. The little room above
described was the room of judgment, and the judges
were let down by machinery through the opening above.
The accused were then introduced, and that heavy
stone door was shut! And there, shut out from every
eye save that of God and their judges, they were tried
and condemned. If not guilty, the accused were hated
or feared, which made condemnation even more certain
than guilt. When condemned, they were commanded
to kiss an image of the Virgin in the apartment; in
the movement they touched springs, which caused her
to embrace them, and in the embrace to pierce them
through and through with daggers. Then a trap was
sprung beneath their feet, which let their bodies fall
upon a wheel armed with knives, which was kept in
constant revolution by a stream of water; by those
knives they were cut in pieces, and the mutilated fragments fell into the stream below!
And there we were, receiving this awful narrative in
the very apartment where these atrocities were committed in the name of justice and religion, with the tun.




222            MEN AND THINGS
Our feelings.      Could stones speak.     Relieved.
nel above us through which the holy inquisitors de.
scended, and with the tunnel beneath us through which
the bodies of their victims were let down for mutila.
tion, so as to be beyond the reach of recognizance! For
a moment our blood ran cold, and we were filled with
horror! Oh! if those stone seats, and those walls of
solid Tock could speak-if the injunction of perpetual
secrecy were removed by Him  who upheaved the
mountain, what awful narratives they would give of
the scenes of treachery, hatred, and blood there perpetrated in the name of God and religion! What wailings were there uttered under the tortures enjoined by
priests!
The stone door swung open, andwe groped our way
through a labyrinth of chambers and passages, dark as
midnight, into the open air. We, all breathed easier,
and a feeling of fear gave way to one of security. We
were soon after on the railway for Frankfort-on-theMaine, deeply impressed with the beauty and wickedness of Baden-Baden, and thankful that its days of feudal and papal tyranny were at an end.




AS SEEN  IN  EUROPE.               22,
RIeidelberg.          Darmstadt.            HOtel Russie.
CHAPTER XXXVI.
To Frankfort from Baden-Baden.-Ho6tel Russie.-The City.-Ca,
thedral.-Jews' Quarters.-Rothschilds. —Their History, and its
Lessons.-To Cassel.-Down the Rhine.-Ruins, and their His.
tory.-The Rhine and Hudson compared.-Cologne.-The Dom.Mary and Bambino again.-The Three Kings.-The Bargain declined.-An Inference.-St. Ursula.-Bridge of Boats.
RAILWAY sketches must be either second-hand or
very imperfect. I will therefore say nothing about
our ride from Baden through Heidelberg, famed for its
charming situation, its university, its Catechism, its
great services at the Reformation  nor of Darmstadt, a.
royal residence, whose drill-house for the soldiers was
said by a wag to be larger than the duchy; nor of
the many pretty places and vine-clad hills through
which we passed, and which we saw on' our xway to
Frankfort.  The day was clear and the ride was pleasant. We reached the city of Goethe late in the afternoon, and took up our quarters at the H6tel Russie.
I find, as to this hotel, the following entry in my notebook: " Weary with the labors of the day, I lay down
in a bed, which, to be comfortable, should be a foot
longer or I a foot shorter. I will avoid this hotel the
next time." It stands in an open, noble street, and
has a reputation, like many other persons and things,
wonderfully beyond its merits.  I would warn  all
against it, save those who have the power of folding,themselves up at night, and to whom such an opera
Don is agreeable.




224            MEN AND THINGS
Frankfort.        Jews' quarters.        A noble mother.
Frankfort has much to. interest for a day or two.
It is surrounded by a fertile and fine country. It is
famous as a free city, and for its ancient love of republicanism, when that form of government was at a great
discount in Europe. It early embraced the cdoctrines
of the Reformation, and most of its people are now
Lutherans.  The new part of the city is very fine; the
houses of the many rich bankers are really palaces.
The old Cathedral is a very peculiar and unarchitectural building, and would seem to be the joint product
of different architects greatly differing in taste and
judgment, and neither yielding to the other. It was
in this massive and ungainly building that the emperors of Germany were crowned for many years. We
went to the Jews' quarters, where for many years they
were shut up after a certain hour in the evening, and
feared for a time that we were lost beyond hope, but
finally got out of the narrow labyrinth, and got back
in safety to our hotel. The sons of Abraham, wearing
that mark on their'visage which designates them
equally under tropical suns and polar snows, were there
in hundreds. It was in these narrow alleys the father
of the Rothschilds laid the foundation of their great
fortune. Nor would his widow desert her humble
abode among old clothes and the poor of her people
for the splendid palaces of her sons; preferring an
abode among her own downtrodden and despised people to all the trappings and attentions which their more
than regal wealth could purchase. A fitting mother
for such sons. All honor upon such unwavering affection, even when fastidious and ill-directed.
The history of this wonderful family has its lessons.




AS-SEEN IN EUROPE.              225
The Rothschilds.                The lessons taught by them.
Mayer Anselm was born in this city, in 1743, and
died in 1812. Left an orphan at eleven years, he was
educated for a teacher. Not liking this employment,
he commenced business in a small way. He was subsequently employed in a banking-house in Hanover.
By industry and frugality he saved some money, and
returning to Frankfort, he established a banking-house
of his own, which is still in existence. Before he was
fifty years of age, he loaned the Danish government
four millions of dollars!  After the manner of his people, he called his sons around his dying bed, and his
last words to them were respecting honesty, frugality,
punctuality, and industry. And in twelve years these
sons raised for different governments in Europe five
hundred millions of dollars-proving them to be the
most wealthy and extended banking firm in the world.
Their great success they attribute to two causes-to
adopt no project until examined and sanctioned by
them all, and then unitedly to execute it; and to aim
less at great profits than at entire security. Simple in
their plans, reasonable in their terms, true to their
contracts, and punctual to every engagement, they
enjoy the entire confidence of the civilized world as
bankers. Their letter of credit will carry a traveler,
without question, round the globe. And their man.
ners are as simple as their credit is extended. Are not
principles involved and lessons taught by this brief
narrative worthy the attention of all men of business?
Is not honesty the best policy?
Rising early in the morning from that very short
bed in that H6tel Russie, and regaining as I could my
usual dimensions, we were away for Cassel, opposite
K 2




226            MEN AND THINGS
The Rhine.         Ruins.           Rhine and Hudson.
Mayence, on the Rhine. The boat was in readiness,
and soon we were steaming it at a rapid rate for Cologne. From Mayence to Bonn the scenery of the river
is very fine, and is constantly changing. Ruins dat.
ing back to the Middle Ages crown every hill. As the
river was the great channel of communication between
the countries extending from the Alps to the North
Sea, there were land pirates who erected toll-gates
upon its waters, and who plundered all who would not
acknowledge their authority and pay the required toll.
The castles, whose ruins are every where visible, were
built by these robbers. When their insolence and robberies were beyond endurance, the trading towns
formed a league, raised a sufficient force and routed
these robbers, and demolished their castles. Such is
the brief history of those ruins, in which alone the
Rhine can claim any superiority to the Hudson. If
old dilapidating walls crowned all the mountains and
beetling cliffs between New York and Albany-if at
every bend of the river, and on every head-land, there
was something to suggest legends of robbers, stories of
battles fought and won, and associations running back
a thousand years-in every point in which they could
be compared the North River would be superior to the
Rhine. People forget to what a degree their wonder
and exclamations are the effects of association. Bating associations, the Rhine nowhere surpasses in wild
grandeur the Highlands about West Point; nor, after
you get out of sight of the Alps, has it any view to be
compared to the Catskill Mountains. A few hours in
a rapid boat down a rapid- current brought us to our
point of destination, Cologne, where, in the Hotel Hol



AS SEEN IN EUROPE.               227
Cologne.              Cathedral.              Sights.
lande, we found very pleasant accommodations, the
windows overlooking the river and the country beyond.
This city, famous in all the earth for its "I eau de
Cologne," is pleasantly located, and very strongly fortified.  It is of ancient date, has a varied history, and
nothing but its Dom to attract the least notice. Less
than ten of its eighty thousand inhabitants are'Protestants; and hence, as we might expect, the churches
abound in miracle-working relies.  We issued out to
see the Dom, as the Cathedral is called, and soon
learned its direction by the old crane which yet surmounts the not half-finithed tower. As far as it goes,
it is the richest specimen extant of the old German
architecture.  Although six centuries have passed
away since its foundations were laid, it is not yet one
half completed; and while the stones in some part of
it are new, and recently carved and laid, in other portions of it even the stones are crumbling away. In this
it is a type of the Papal Church to which it belongs.
On a warm pleasant day, we wandered around its
cold, vacant, but spacious interior.  Nothing impresses
but its vastness and the finely stained windows, We
saw there a case containing Mary and Bambino, and
other precious relics.  The case is hung over with legs
and arms, heads and hearts, made of some kind of
composition, as votive offerings for cures performed by
the image and the relies! And before that box there
were three persons praying most earnestly; they were
an old man, and a woman that would not be injured by
a good washing, and a girl with sore eyes; while some
women were scrubbing the stone floor and screaming
at the top of their voices, and some dirty boys were
playing hide-and-go-seek among the pillars.




228            MEN AND THINGS
Three Kings.       Pnshing a bargain.      St. Ursula.
Behind the high altar, to which none are admitted
without " a compensation," there is a box which contains the relics of the Three Kings, or wise men, that
worshiped the Savior. A shaven-pated man carried the.
keys, and he drives a hard bargain for the good of the
Church. He offered to admit us to a sight of the sacred relics for six francs a head. But as there were
several of us, we strove to lump a bargain with him;
but he declined, thinking we would pay the sum required. But as he was stiff, we declined, obviously to
his mortification, to go in at any price. Finding that
neither our superstition nor our curiosity were as intense as he suspected, he proposed terms; but we declined, telling him we believed the whole a hoax at~any
rate.  This gave the jolly man not the least offense, as
he believed the same as firmly as we did. Popery is
the same unchanging nonsense every where. We asked the jolly beadle what they did with the money collected from travelers and others by these relics: "We
use it for the finishing of the Dom," was his reply.
Judging from the dilapidation and leanness of the
house, and the dress and sleek fatness of the priests,
we inferred that some of it, at least, took a different diiection; nor would any one say, that saw their stallfed reverences tripping in and out, that this was a violent inference.,
Here also is the church of St. Ursula, a female saint,
who, with eleven thousand virgins, sailed from Britain
to convert or populate Armorica.  They were driven by
storm up the Rhine to Cologne, where they were mur.
dered by the barbarians, because of their unyielding
virtue. And this church is hung round with their




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              229
Fleet of girls.     The absurd preferred.    Bridge.
bones! Think of eleven thousand skeletons hung round
one church! Where did Ursula get boats enough for
such a fleet of girls? Why, in a terrific storm, did
they not land before reaching Cologne? How often
must these bones have been renewed from the 5th to
the 19th century? And -even the wonderful legendmonger,.Butler, tells us that there is a doubt whether
the virgins of Ursula were eleven or eleven thousand.
But the eleven thousand, because the most absurd, has
the benefit of the doubt. My appetite for relies was so
gorged that I declined a visit to this horrid sepulchre.
By a bridge of boats Cologne is connected with a
small town on the opposite bank of the Rhine.  In the
cool of the evening, that bridge was crowded with persons promenading back and forth, fanned by the cool
breeze from the water. There we saw some of the high,
and much of the low life of the city of St. Ursula. Cologne is a Papal city, and abounds with relics, priests,
and beggars; and, although cleaner than we expected
to find it, there are spots where the water of the Farinas', for which it is so famed, would not be unacceptable.,




230              MEN  AND THINGS
From Cologne.           Aix-la-Chapelle.         Antiques.
CHAPTER XXXVI I.
From Cologne to Brussels.-Aix-la-Chapelle: its History and holy
Relics. -Brussels. -The Parc.-Sabbath in Brussels.-St. Gudule.
-Preaching in Flemish. -A sudden Stop.-Anecdote of Dr. Nesbit.-High Mass. —Lifting the Pay.-Tour of Observation.-Scenes
in the Pare and Streets. —The Manikin: his curious History. —
The miraculous Wafers.
WE took an early car from  Cologne.  We passed
through. dirty streets and strong fortifications to the
railway without the walls. Although our baggage was
very light, they charged nearly as much for it as for our
passage. The country to Brussels is level, and highly
cultivated, wlth quite a rapid succession of large towns;
the most important of which are Duren, Aix-la-Chapelle, Verviers, Liege, Tirlemont, and Malines. Of these
the most historic is Aix-la-Chapelle. Here Charlemagne was born-this was his favorite city, and here
is his tomb. It is pleasantly situated in a- cup surrounded by hills, on which there are many beautiful
residences.  It was built by the IRomans, pillaged by
the Huns, rebuilt by Charlemagne, and here the emperors of Germany were crowned, until the ceremony
was removed to Frankfort in the fourteenth century.
It is almost entirely a Papal city, and is of course rich
in relics. In the Cathedral is the tomb of CHArlemagne,
and some antiques of priceless value.  Among these
are the swaddling-clothes of the Savior and his winding-sheet, the robe of the Virgin Mary, the shroud of




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              231
Relics.             Golden key.            Brussels.
John the Baptist, some of the manna which fell in the
wilderness, the girdle of Christ, the linen and some of
the hair of the Virgin, and a fragment of the true cross.
Some of these were only exposed to royal visitors; but
now they are exhibited every seven years to the adoration of the faithful of every grade, when pilgrims resort
here from all lands to see them, and to receive healing
from their sight and touch!! Others of them are exhibited even to the gaze of heretics "' for a compensation;" and if your golden key is large enough to suit
the sacristan, you may have a peep even at the swaddling-cloth*W! In this way large revenues are yearly
obtained from Protestants desirous to see curiosities,
and who are often laughed at by roguish sacristans for
their credulity. The object of all these base impositions is to raise a revenue. The other towns are more
or less noted for the extent and perfection of their manufactures, especially those of Verviers, Liege, and Malines, famous for its Mechlin laces and shovel hats for
priests. Late in the afternoon we reached'Brussels,
the capital of Belgium, and soon found ourselves very
pleasantly accommodated in the H6tel de France, which
looks out upon the beautiful Parc.
Brussels is a pleasant, airy, and attractive city, with
many fine streets and parks, and wearing a general aspect which forcibly recalls your recollections of Paris.
Indeed, it has been called "petit Paris." And nowhere
are you so forcibly reminded of the city on the Seine
as in and around "' the Parc," bounded by the Rue Royale and Rue Ducale, and having the palace at one end
and the representative chamber on the other. The
trees are old and magnificent, shading all the walks;




232            MEN AND THINGS
The Parc.        St. Gudule.        Art and architecture.
and beneath the trees and along all the walks are
pieces of statuary more or less elegant, and in varying
states of preservation, as in the gardens of the Tuileries
and the Place de Concorde. The city was once strongly
fortified, but the walls are demolished, and the place
they once occupied is laid out so as to form a beautiful drive around the entire city. Some of the public
buildings are very fine, but they should be seen before
making a continental tour, instead of at the close of
it, as in our case.
We spent a Sabbath in Brussels, the last we spent
in a Papal country, and among a people *f a strange
tongue. As there was no Protestant service in our own
tongue, we went to the Cathedral of St. Gudule in the
morning to see,the home dress of Popery in one of its
strong-holds.  This is a fine specimen of Gothic architecture, and has all the elements of a Cathedral-no
seats-many chairs-painted windows —a spacious interior-many altars and confession-boxes, and a profu.
sion of gilding.  The painted windows are very fine.
Its internal appearance is very meagre in comparison
with the churches of Rome. In Rome every thing
yields to the interior. A building which externally
has no attraction, like that of Ara Cceli, is internally
gorgeous, and rich in painting and statuary; but out
of Italy it would seem as if architecture was the great
idea, and to which every thing is made to yield. Art
rules south-architecture north of the Alps.
We went to St. Gudule before the hour for high
mass, which was that day performed. A priest was
preaching in the Flemish to quite an audience of people, and the waiters were arranging the chairs and




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              233
Preaching.          Anecdote.           Lifting the pay.
-moving in every direction making arrangements for the
high ceremony. People were walking about and chatting with one another. A more- inattentive audience
could not be desired; and were I the preacher, I could
not endure the confusion. Just as thiclock struck
ten, a beadle walked up the pulpit-stairs, the preacher
closed his discourse in an instant, crossed himself and
warked down and away, the bead~ leading the van.
The instance forcibly recalled another anecdote of Dr.
Nesbit. He was in the habit of preaching sermons in
the good long metre of Scotland. A committee waited
on him, and kindly hinted that short metre would be
more acceptable to many of the people. On inquiry, he
learned that a sermon an hour long would suit them
all; he assented to the shortening. On the next Sabbath, just as the hour was drawing to its close, he became exceedingly animated, ihnteresting, eloquent, and
impressive. In the midst of a highly-wrought passage,
the hour ended; and, without waiting to conclude the
sentence, he closed his Bible, paused for a moment,
and said, " Brethren, your hour is out; let us pray."
On the retiring of the preacher, the mass commenced,
and the people turned from the pulpit to the altar.
We never saw priests more richly robed.  The vestments at St. Gudule far surpassed those worn in the
Sistine or in St. Peter's.  Nor did we ever see in -a
Popish church a more numerous or respectable congregation. But, with slight variations, it was the same
ridiculous farce of the mass over again, and in the
midst of the high ceremony, an interstice was left for
"lifting the pay" from every man, woman, and child
that sat on a chair. And it seemed to us most singu



234           MEN AND THINGS
Money-changers.    Sabbath parade.    Evening walk.
lar to see the collectors paying back the change to those
who gave silver. For at least fifteen or twenty minutes
the whole house was turned into an exchange, in every
part of which was heard the jingling of coppers. And
we thought 4the money-changers in the Temple.
In the afternoon we went out on a tour of moral in.
spection. In the midst of " the Parc" rises a mound,
and on that mould rises a building in the form,f a
canopy, in which was a very large band of musicians.
Around this mound is a wide circular walk finely
shaded with magnificent trees, and filled on both sides
with chairs.  The band on each fair Sabbath day
commences playing at one o'clock, and continues to
three; and during the intervening time, the entire
Pare is filled with the, elite, the fashion, the gay attire
of Brussels. The, band plays, and the people-men,
women, and children —all march. We never beheld
such luxury of dress as was there worn by the ladies.
The sight would have been gorgeous and fascinating
were it not for its flagrant violation of the Sabbath.
From the Pare we went out among some of the principal streets; the shops were all open, and most gayly
decorated, and were filled with purchasers, among
whom we recognized many priests. We went to the
most fashionable church in the city to evening mass,
in which we counted three men and about two hundred women and children, After dusk we took another
stroll through the city. The shops were crowdedporter-houseS and caf6s were all open, and crowded
with men and women! the women often more numerous than the men! Such was the state of things on
this beautiful Sabbath, in the beautiful little city of




AS SEEN IN. EUROPE.            235
Thanksgiving.      The Manikin.        His importance.
Brussels. Another item in proof of the fact that Popery knows no Sabbath.  And as I retired to re#, I
uttered my sincere thanksgiving to God that this was
the last Sabbath I expected to spend amid the institutions of Popery, and among people of a strange tongue.
The city is ornamented and supplied with seven
fountains, among which are Les Fontaines des Fleuves
and the Manikin.  This latter is the bronze figure of
an urchin-boy about two feet high, who discharges a
stream of water in a natural wa. The people of the
city regard the questiona eiire with great veneration, as the palladium  of their rights and liberties.
The fate of the city is superstitiously regarded as identified with the fate of this not very modest boy of
bronze. When stolen, as has been frequently the case,
his loss was regarded as a public calamity; and his
restoration has been always commemorated with f6tes.
Princes have courted popularity with the people by
presenting him with court dresses, and military honors
and orders. The Elector of Bavaria gave him a splendid wardrobe and a valet de chambre. Louis XV.
made him a knight, and presented him with a suit of
uniform. This little gentleman is dressed up on certain days, when the city turns out to do him honor.
He possesses a positive revenue, which is regularly paid
to him; but how he spends it we could not learn. It
was suggested that some bishop or monk was his treasurer. As the suggestion is not unreasonable, we may
rudily conjecture what becomes of the revenue of " Sir
Manikin."  He has become rather republican in his
notions, and, since 1830, wears the uniform of the
" Garde Civique," in preference to those of his royal




236            MIEN AND THINGS
Wicked craft.                           Three wafers.
donors. And as we gazed upon the little urchin filling
thekettles and vessels of men and women who came
to him for water, we were amazed at the stupid superstition of the people, and at the wicked craft of kings
and princes who could seek to ingratiate themselves
with the people by heaping honors upon such a bawble! Had the priests done this it would be all in their
line. But they are not without their fraudulent relics
in Brussels; they have in the Cathedral the three miraculously consecrated wafers, said to have been stolen
by the Jews in the fourteenth century, and to have
been discovered by their miraculous spouting of blood
when pierced with a spear by an unbeliever! These
are shown "for a compensation," and are annually exhibited with great pomp for the veneration of the
faithful! 0 priests, priests, where are your blushes?




AS SEEN  IN EUROPE.               237
Waterloo.             First view.           Belgian lion.
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
To Waterloo.-The Village.-The Field.-Just the Place for the
Battle.-The dreadful Spot.-Feelings excited there.-Conjectures.
-Justice to Bonaparte. —What has England gained?-Through
Flanders to Ostend.-The Hulk.-Rapid Flight.
WE took an early breakfast in Brussels, and started
for Waterloo. at the distance of ten or twelve miles.
Without being as bad as many travelers would represent it, the road and ride through the forest of Soignies
is not very interesting.  We went on with rapid pace,
and at about nine o'clock we were in Waterloo, a most
miserable-looking village.  As we approached it we
were beset by many learned in the localities of the
place, and most kindly offering their services as guides.
We employed a resident of the place, who most kindly
introduced us to his wife and daughter, who had relics
collected from the battle-field to sell. We proceed to
the scene of carnage, and from the position which
Wellington occupied, and where he uttered the command, " Up, and be at >em!" we took our first, delib.
erate, silent view of the field of blood.  Nor is there a
solitary thing to arrest your attention in the field itself.
If that artificial pile of clay called " La Montagne du
Lion," surmounted by the Belgian lion with his paw
upon a globe, to represent little Belgium as governing
this big world, were scattere4 as it ought to be, over
the plain from which it was collected —if the monuments here and there erected to commemorate the




238            MEN AND THINGS
The field itself.                    The bloody furrow.
military virtues of men that were there made to bite
the dust, were removed-if the great contest which there
decided the peace of Europe could be forgotten, it
would be difficult to select a more uninteresting deadlevel view than that which opens up before you. The
plain extends, rich in cultivation, but level as the sea,
as far as the eye can reach on three sides, and the
forest of Soignies lies on the other. And yet one can
readily conceive that it was just the place to fight such
a great battle.  There are no fences or ditches to arrest
the movements of men, artillery, or cavalry. There
are no hiding-places for cowards. An elevation of less
than one hundred feet would enable a commander to
review the army of Xerxes; and, until I looked over
the wide, level plain, I had no conception of a position
where two armies, so vast in number, could fight, retreat, deploy-where cavalry could rush to the aid of
infantry-where flying artillery could appear and fire,
and, before the smoke of the cannon had risen from the
earth, be out of the reach of the shot of the enemy. It
is just the place for such a fierce and fearful conflict.
About a mile beyond the insignificant village or
hamlet of W.aterloo, you reach an eminence which
rises on the vast plain like a wave on the sea. You
pass down into what may be regarded as the furrow of
the wave, and ascend another wave at a short distance.
Along the ridge of the first wave the British forces,
under Wellington, were drawn up; on the ridge of the
other, the French, under Napoleon. And the furrow
between.them was the.cene of awful carnage. On
the 18th of June, 1815, one hundred and fifty thousand
men lined these ridges, nearly equally divided by the




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.             239
Wellington's position.  Napoleon's.    How it looked.
vale between them. The battle commence'/-about
noon, and lasted until night. And there I was standing on the very spot where Wellington exclaimed, when
the battle was obviously against him, " 0 that Blucher
or night might come!" and a little further on is the
spot where, inspirited by the appearance of the Prussians, he gave the brief order to a concealed prostrate
company, " Up, and at them!" as the " Old Guard"
was crossing the valley under the brave Ney. We
walked over the valley, on that fearful day crowded
with the heroic dead, and flowing with blood, and in
a few minutes we were on the spot where Napoleon
stood when he ordered his Imperial Guard, which had
never been conquered, and which was the terror of
Europe, to the deadly breach under' Ney, saying,
" This, gentlemen, is the road to Brussels!"  Never
was an attack more valorously made; never was an
attack more firmly met or more fearfully repulsed.
Under the awful and repeated fire of the British, the
Guard recoiled, soon was thrown into confusion, and
the field of Waterloo was lost to Napoleon!
It was on the last day of June we wandered over
this field of blood. And the two endnences —where
stood the two greatest generals of modern days —were
waving with yellow wheat, and thQ valley that divides
them was bearing rich grass ready for the scythe of
the mower. And every thing seemed as quiet as if
the roaring of canon was never there heard, and as innocent as if the cruel war had never there perpetrated
the bloodiest acts known in the annals of the world.
And standing by the tomb of one of the heroic dead,
and in view of the unsightly mountain, two hundred




240            MEN AND THINGS
Emotions.           Napoleon.           Conjectures.
feet h:ih, beneath which the bones of friends and foes
lie peaceful in death, I felt intensely moved in view
-of the awful carnage of that battle —of the destinies it
decided — of the wailing and lamentation which it
spread through Europe, whose every country and island
made some contribution to its piles of dead —and of the
subsequent fate of the chief actors in the bloody tragedy.
There the star of Napoleon set to rise no more; Napoleon, the greatest military genius of a hundred ages,
and of the most capacious and comprehensive intellect.
And while walking over the ground where the last
tragic scene of his great military life was enacted,
every sympathy of my heart went out toward the, fallen chieftain, whose history is yet to be truly written,
and whose motives and character will yet be placed
in their true light.
If victory had followed the great hero to Waterloo,
as to Jena, Austerlitz, Marengo, and Lodi, we may not
be able to conjecture what results would have followed, but we may state what would not have followed.
The old Bourbon dynasty, restored by the Holy Alliance, would not have again cursed France. Bloody
Austria would Wver have reached her present bad preeminence in the politics of Eukope. Russia would not
sit as now upon her. icy throne, hurling defiance a# all
national aspirations after freedom, and coolly contemplating the speediest and easiest way of converting into
Cossacks all the people and nations from the North Cape
to the Dardanelles, and from the Volga at least to the
Rhine, if not to the English Channel. Poland would
not have been blotted from the map of the world. The
tragedy of Hungary would not have been enacted. The




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              241
Object of Bonaparte.                   England's gain
fearful murders perpetrated in the name of justice, and
for the purpose of maintaining the claims of legitimacy, which have stained every nation of Continental
Europe, would not have occurred. The Two Sicilies,
as now, would not be groaning under burdens beyond
human endurance. And Popery, as now, would not
le, arrogantly asserting its exploded claims, and making of even its mutilated and paralyzed form an argument for the admission of those claims! It was not
with the progress of the race, but with the permanency of despotic institutions, religious and civil, that Bonaparte warred. He was ambitious, but it was to carry his objects. And if that ambition took the form of
selfishness and of self-aggrandizement, it was the better to carry his objects. If he could do his work as
well by being consul or president as by being emperor, he would have preferred it. And we have faith to
believe that his conduct, which lay in the direction of
selfishness, was not of choice, but of necessity. If he
were as bad a man as British historians of the Tory
school would represent him, it is impossible that he
could be, as he now is, enshrined in the heart of hearts
of the French nation. It is not in huiman nature to
make a demi-god of the devil.
And what has England gained, save a monstrous
national debt, by the overthrow of Napoleon?  She
mainly contributed to that end: without her men and
means, the French would have swept all the other allies from the field of Waterloo by the first fire of her
cannon. And what has she gained in Europe by her
service? Absolutely nothing that she would not now
have if she had cultivated friendly relations with the
L




242            MEN AND THINGS
Results of the battle.  Guide.       Ostend to Dover.
empire and its emperor, while Europe besides would
be in all respects the gainer. The defeat of Napoleon
at Waterloo was the triumph of despotism over freedom-of divine right over the rights of the people;
and well and nobly did Robert Hall exclaim, when he
heard of the victory of Wellington at Waterloo, " That
battle and its results seem to me to have put back the
clock of the world six degrees."  And England may
yet reap the rewards of her evil doing in her constant
and successful opposition to the plans and projects of
Napoleon Bonaparte.
We paid our guide; and, although we gave him the
wages of a whole day for a few hours, he besought us
for " charity."  We returned to Brussels, and late in
the afternoon took the cars for Ostend. Although our
road lay through Flanders, and the cities of Ghent and
Bruges, such was the rapidity of our travel that we
could see but little. Nor did we stop at Ostend long
enough to have any experience of its odors, which are
said to be not quite agreeable. We hastened on board
" The English and Belgian Royal Mail Steamer," of
which we might say all that we said, and more,of the
bloat that conieyed us from Dover to Calais. From
ten o'clock in the evening to five o'clock in the morning, seven mortal hours, we spent in the awful hulk.
The fare was high, and there was no place for repose
save the floor and benches. The sea was calm; but
the thing called a cabin was decidedly hot. We could
not secure even a drink of cold water. And yet, before
we reached Dover, two officials of her majesty came
upon us with a demand for half a dollar each for attendance!




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.           243
Flying.                             In London again.
We were on the field of Waterloo at twelve o'clock
on Monday; were in Brussels at five; at Ostend at
ten; in Dover at five in the morning of Tuesday; and
at eight we were at breakfast in the very heart of the
city of London. This seemed more like annihilating
distance than any thing we had yet experienced. And
we rendered our devout thanks to God that we were
again in a land of civil and religious liberty, and among
a people whose language was our own.




244             MEN AND: THINGS
Fleetwood.           Bathing-house.          Room-mate.
CHAPTER XXXIX.
Fleetwood. -Bathing Establishment. - State-room  Companion.Landing in Ireland.-Introduction to the Assembly.-Dr. Cook. —
Dr. Edgar.-Dr. Stewart.-Dr. Dobbin.-Dr. Carlisle.-Dr. Dill.Dr. Goudy.-An excited Scene. —Great Speech of Dr. Cook.-Two
Bodies compared.-The Irish Way.-A more excellent Way.
LEARNING, on reaching London, that the General Assembly of the Presbyterian Church of Ireland had commenced its annual sessions at Belfast, I hastened thither to meet it. Taking the Express train, we were in
a few hours at Fleetwood, on the Irish Sea.  This is a
new town, and is rising rapidly as a bathing and watering place. There is here the largest, neatest, and
most convenient bathing establishment I ever saw. At
high tide, the salt water runs into a reservoir; thence
it is thrown up by steam power into an immense basin; and thence it is conducted by pipes to all the
apartments, which seemed endless. The engine which
ptps, also heats water for tepid baths; so that you,can swim, plunge, bathe, or take the shower, in cold
or warm water, at any range of the thermometer, at a
minute's notice, and for sixpence! It seemed a perfeet establishment.
"This is our best state-room, and you can have the
upper berth in it," said the steward to me, as I went
on board the steamer for Ireland.  Anxious to know
who would occupy the lower shelf, I asked him who
would be my room-mate.' Dr. Cook, a minister in




AS SEEN  IN EUROPE.              245
Introduction.       Landing in Ireland.     Emotions.
Belfast," was his reply; the man of all others in Ireland I wished most to see. Having learned who he
was, I eyed him with all the powers of my scrutiny.
We met in the state-room. We each commenced gradual approaches-each knew the name of the other, and
soon we ventured on a mutual introduction.  Having
tickled each' other a little after the Irish fashion, we
went to our'shelves, and talked until the claims of sleep
became irresistible. The night was fine, but the sea
was unquiet.  Amid a glowing sun and a refreshing
air, we entered the bay of Belfast, and soon reached
the quays of the city. And as I went forth from the
deck of the steamer my emotions became unutterable,
and I could not help exclaiming with joy,
" My foot it treads my native soil;
I breathe my native air."
0 how changed in years, in mind, in heart, in all the
circumstances of my being, from what I was when, upward of thirty years previous, youthful, unknown, and
friendless, I went forth from that land to seek my fortune in the new world of the West! Soon I was in
my room at the " Imperial," where, I trust, I returned
my thanksgivings to God for his varied mercies And
goodness during the many years intervening between
my departure and my retur. And never did the sweet
hymn of Addison possess to me the meaning and the
unction which it did on that occasion:
"When all thy mercies, 0 my God,
My rising soul surveys,
Transported with the view,. I'm lost
In wonder, love, and praise!"
As soon: as' my arrival was known, Dr. Dill and Mr.




246            MEN AND THINGS
Introduction to the Assembly.  The Assembly.  Dr. Cook
Simpson, well known in America and highly esteemed,
waited on me and conducted me to the Assembly, and
introduced me to many of its leading members. Nothing could be more cordial than their hearty welcome.
On the arrival of Dr. W. S. Brackenridge, we were both,
on the motion of Dr. Dill, seconded by Dr. Edgar, unanimously invited to sit in the Assembly, and to take part
in its deliberations. No attention that Christian courtesy could suggest was withheld from us.
The Irish General Assembly, unlike that of Scotland
and of the United States, is not a representative body
from Presbyteries; it is rather constituted as are our synods. Every Presbyterian minister in the kingdom, connected with any of its Presbyteries, is entitled to a seat,
and every Church is entitled to its delegate. Considering the number of ministers and churches, this makes a
large body of the Assembly; far too large for calm, judicious deliberation. All that we saw deeply impressed us with this conviction. The Assembly seemed to
us like a great Presbyterian mass-meeting, where addresses are made for popular effect. With one tenth
the number of members, it would have done as wisely,
and more calmly and rapidly.
The great men of the Church were there, and under
sufficient excitement to br'ig out all their peculiar force
and talent. Dr. Cook was there, of middle stature, firmly built, and, although advanced in life, with natural
energies unabated. His face is long, his nose Roman,
his hair and eyes gray, his lips thin and compressed, and
his forehead expanded. He was obviously the man of
the House, in debate.  The conflict as to the founding
of a college under the will of Mrs. Magee, between her




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.               247
Dr. Edgar.    Dr. Stewart.   Dr. Dobbin.   Dr. Carlisle.
trustees and the Assembly, excited all his energies. His
invectives are terrible; his acting very fine; his wit
keen; his sarcasm withering. He sometimes fell upon
his opponents like a tornado. Dr. John Edgar was there,
rough in appearance, not handsome in form or feature,
rather inclining to a semicircle when he walks or sits,
blunt in conversation, honest and downright in his opinions and expression of them, intelligent, influential in
debate, truly and subjectively pious, with a heart as
warm as ever beat in an Irishman's body, and a nature
all tending to the poetic and philanthropic. " Where,"
said I, as I entered the Assembly, "is Dr. Edgar?"
" There he is yonder," said my friend, " with his head
between his knees."  No man in Ireland is more esteemed or useful. And Dr. Stewart was there-since
deceased-tall, slender, calm, logical, in many respects
the most able man in the house, and obviously a leader. His social qualities were of the highest order. Dr.
Dobbin was there, fair in complexion, rotund in form,
of fine countenance, and always wearing glasses.  He
often spoke, and ably.  Dr. Carlisle was there, slender
in person, tall, with a fine head, thin gray hailr tender
eyes, and a most benevolent expression. He was very
retiring. I did not hear him speak once. His name
is revered in Ireland for his great piety and his missionary labors. Dr. Duff paid him a most glowing tribute
as an apostolical missionary in one of his Belfast orations.  Dr. Dill was there, of strong muscular development, which was sometimes needed in his conflicts
with the priests; calm, able in debate, in labors abundant, and esteemed by all for his piety and for his
services in the Irish mission field. Mr. Dill, of Dublin,




248            MEN AND THINGS
Mr. Dill.          Dr. Kirkpatrick.       Dr. Goudy.
was there; short, but strongly framed; able in debate;
and as one of the trustees of Mrs. Magee, the leader of
the side of the house which went with the trustees for
the location of the college in Derry. Dr. Kirkpatrick
was there; small in person, of -sandy complexion, always wearing glasses, speaking rarely, but beloved for
his amiable, unobtrusive piety. And others were there,
truly Irish in appearance, accent, and excitability, and
the most violent men I ever saw in a deliberative body,
save and always in the French Chamber of Deputies.
One of these was the Rev. Dr. Goudy, whose acquaintance I had not the pleasure of making.  His excitement rose at times almost to frenzy.  When in his
highest mood, he seemed like an incarnation of passion.
Although warned on all hands not to judge of the
Assembly generally by what I had seen during my visit, I will describe a scene which I witnessed in the
church of Dr. Cook.
The Assembly met at eleven o'clock in the morning,
and adjourned at five for dinner; it met again at seven, and often sat until two next morning.  Dining in
company with several eminent clergymen, we did not
get back to the Assembly. until about eight o'clock.
The church was densely thronged; we entered fiom
the rear, and found the house in a perfect uproar. The
moderator was standing and calling to order; fifty persons were striving to speak: one would cry out, " Vote;"
another, " No, no;" another, " The roll."  One would
rise, shouting "I rise to a point of order;" another
would ask for "the civil power;" another would shout,
"Turn them out!" There were cheers and hisses from
the crowded galleries; these were echoed from the floor;




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.             249
An excitement.      Dr. Cook.         Two Assemblies.
and now and then, from floor to roof, nothing was heard
but confused noises, which the moderator could no more
quell than a child could tame a tempest. Dr. Cook
rose in the middle aisle, and got the admission of the
chair that he had the floor. But how to maintain it
and go on was the question! And there for nearly two
hours he battled, with remarkable skill and dexterity,
the storm, repelling assaults from all sides, and administering some withering rebukes to some that would
interrupt him. His perseverance succeeded; he maintained the-floor; the intense excitement subsided, and
he delivered the great speech of the Assembly, and in
the best style of his best days. For upward of two
hours the vast crowd hung upon his lips; at one moment, such was the anxiety to catch his lower tones,
you could hear your heart beat; and at another, some
of his keen and terrible sarcasms would bring the vast
audience to their feet in boisterous applause. The
question was taken long after midnight, and the doctor
carried the vote by a large majority. His deliverance
on that evening was said to be equal to any of his great
efforts, when in the vigor of his manhood he contended
with Arianism in the synod of Ulster.
The two most excited deliberative bodies I ever
saw were the French National and the Irish General
Assembly. Which was the most excited it would
be difficult to determine. And yet it was pleasant to
see, on the day after that stormy debate, the fiercest
opponents walking arm in arm in the streets of Belfgst, and treating each other with all good feeling on
the floor of the House. The Irish have certainly
a way of doing things peculiar to themselves; and
L 2




250              MEN  AND  THINGS
The Irish way.      No sediment.       The more excellent way.
because in a real row every body pours out their entire
feelings, there is no remaining sediment; and when
their feelings cool, they meet as friends. They fight
it out, and then all is over.  And all this is far preferable to hiding jealous, envious, rancorous feeling in
our hearts, which nothing can charm or allay:
"Which will not list to wisdom's lore,
Nor music's voice can lure it;
But there it stings for evermore
The heart that must endure it."
On the whole, I go for the Irish way of settling dif.
ficulties.  " If any man have a quarrel against any,"
fight it out fairly, and then forbear, and forgive one
another.  I have no patience with the piety which
restrains hard words, and which nourishes hard feelings forever. Yet the more excellent way is to indulge
only right feelings, and to utter only soft words, which
turn away wrath.




AS SEEN  IN EUROPE.               251
Visit to Connaught.       Sligo.            Going to ship.
CHAPTER XL.
Visit to Connaught.-Sligo. —Emigrants.-Often remove for the
Worse.-Camline.-Famine Scenes. —A young Hero.-The Dead
Ass and Family.-Industrial Schools.- Several visited. —Priestly
Outrages.-Visit at Home.-Great Changes.-Dublin. —Mr. King.
-Dr. Urwick.-An Incident.-A brighter Day coming.
As on some future occasion I may treat of Ireland
and the Irish in a separate volume, I must dismiss for
the present all accounts of my very pleasant visit to
that island with a few brief sketches.
In company with Dr. Edgar, I made a flying visit
to Connaught, to see for myself what has been always
regarded as the most dark and uncivilized portion of
the country. We passed through Lisburn, TMoira, Lurgan, Armagh, Monaghan, to Enniskillen, anrd thence
to Sligo, where we first saw the opening of Connaught
wretchedness.  It was a market-day in Sligo, and we
went all over the town.'The people were poorly clad,
generally peaceable in their demeanor, and the matters and things for sale were of the most primitive
character.' As we approached this little sea-port, we
passed a few small companies of persons which seemed
to be deeply affected; and on inquiry we learned that
they were friends accompanying their friends to the
ship which was to convey them to America. Many,
many emigrants there are who sever the endearing
ties of kindred and home, and'leave their scanty, yet
comfortable competence, and go out from iilfluences




252            MEN AND THINGS
Emigrants.         Camline.          Famine incidents.
that would bind them to temperance and virtue to the
close of life, to become hewers of wood and drawers
of water in America, and to descend through the grogshop to intemperance, crime, and infamy, and to sink
into a premature grave, over which a tear is never
shed.
From Sligo we proceeded to Boyle, where we were
met by a private carriage, which conveyed us to Camline, the residence of a noble specimen of an Irish
lady, and the young widow of a man belonging to the
old Irish gentry. And now I was in the famine district of Ireland, and under the roof of a lady who,
with a sister, remained to minister to the living and
the dying, when all others fled as from the breath of
the pestilence.;They described to me scenes of which
they were the witnesses, which rendered me nervous
and wakeful through the night. A poor mother died
of famine; the father went to a town for meal, and
got none; returning home, he leaned against a turfrick in the bog and died, leaving three orphan children. The children were taken with the famine fever;
one, in her delirium, ran to the bog, fell into a hole,
and was drowned. Missed by her sick brother, he rose
and went in search of her. He drew her body from
the hole, and, unable to carry it, drew it to the house;
and when my informant saw it, the body was laid out
by the hands of that sick brother upon the cabin door,
which was taken from its hinges for that purpose.
That boy alone survived of the family. Could I have
found him, I would have brought him to America.
He was a hero in his way.
They told of another family that killed their ass for




AS SEEN -IN EUROPE.              253
Ruins.     Schools.      Their usefulness.  The priests.
food, and put away its meat in a barrel. The family
died, and their bodies and the meat of the ass were
found putrefying together! So many died, and so many
were sick and unable to bury them, that many were interred in the ruins of their cabins,which were pulled
down upon their lifeless occupants! And the ruins of.
desolate villages, once populous, but now. utterly deserted, we daily met in our rambles in Connaught.
Through the very efficient and intelligent agency of
Dr. Edgar, much is doing in Connaught through industrial schools, in which the children are taught " to
learn and to earn." I visited several of these at Camline, Clogher, Newpark, Dromore We'st, Ballina, Owenmore, and others. They are mostly under the care of,lady patronesses, and some of them are superintended
by missionaries of the General Assembly. In the way
of the instruction of thE children in morals and religion,
and into habits of: industry, they. are doing an incalculable amount of good.  I have seen, one hundred. children -irnsome of these schools, who, while they were securing a good education, earned more by their needles
in working muslin than could their fathers by their
daily labor.' I frequently examined them  as to their
knowledge of the great principles of religion, and of the
plan of salvation; and, although the children of Popish
parents, they would compare most favorably with any
children of a similar age that I have ever met in our
best-regulated and best-instructed Sunday-schools. Of
course, the priests bitterly oppose them, and hate them
with an intense hatred. They not unfrequently flog
the children for going, and the parents for permitting
them to go! The priests have made Ireland a godless,




254            MEN AND THI:NGS
Ireland's cure.     Home.           Spots remembered.
Christless land, and thus they have'debased and cursed
it. And the only cure for Ireland is that which these
schools is applying, to instruct and to evangelize the
people. When the knowledge of the Bible and of Jesus
Christ supplants the wretched idolatry of Popery, the
clays of Ireland's mourning are ended.
I made, of course, a visit to the home of my childhood, the remembrances of which were fast passing
away from my mind. And the difference between my
boyish recollections and things as I found them surprised me. The river of my boyhood was a small
streamlet over which I could step; the mountain was
a little hillock; the lake was a pond over which an
Indian could shoot his arrow; the road, two miles long,
became remarkably shortened; and the town, which
was quite large, and with fine buildings, although not'
diminished, was only a small village, and with very indifferent houses. There were three spots which I well
remember: the place where the school-house stood,
where I first learned the alphabet, but the house and
my old teacher were gone; the spring, from which I
drew many a cooling draught; and the place in the
grave-yard where my father was buried before I was
six years of age, and to which my mother used to take
me often by the hand. Although more than forty years
had passed away since I entered the walls of that parish cemetery, I went directly to that hallowed grave.
O the changes which a few years make in any locality -to those returning on'a visit! On reaching my
childish home, that was gone, and another house had
taken its place. An older brother, a joyous youth when
we parted, now met me almost an old man. His wife




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              255
Changes.             Changes.              Emotions.
and children were entire strangers.  Not one that I
left in midlife remained. Not a trace'existed of entire
families. An old lady said she remembered me "a
fine bright chap going to school;" and a few persons,
a little older or younger than myself, said they would
know me any where, which was very questionable.
This was all the remembrance I could eke out. I
stood in the presence of a younger brother some minutes without his suspecting who I was; and when introduced, he was overwhelmed with surprise. The old
neighbors -were all gone, and the houses of many of
them torn down. I called to see a relative that I remembered as a youthful, blooming bride when a boy at
school, and I found her old, and haggard, and sickly,
and, in the vain effort to keep herself warm, sitting
over a fire in July! And the thought flashed over me
that I was advancing in years  My school-mates were
all gone save one, who told me that I gave him a knife
by which to remember me; but;I had forgotten even
his name.  Nobody knew me, and I knew nobody!
Whether or not it was the effect of my feelings, I became sick. I could not bear up under the emotions
that were constantly rising on my mind and soul, like
waves on a stormy ocean, and after a more brief visit
than I intended to make, I ordered my car and was
away Never had I such a feeling sense of the mean.
ing of these words of David: " As for man, his days
are as grass; as a flower of the field so he flourisheth.
For the wind passeth over it and it is gone, and the,
place thereof shall know it no more."
I would be doing great injustice to all my feelings
should I close this brief sketch of my visit to Ireland




256            MEN AND THINGS
Rev. Mr. King.    Dr. Urwick.     Kindness remembered.
without any notice of Dublin and the dear friends there.
The house of the Rev. Alexander King, the eloquent,
fearless, faithful defender of Protestantism, whose eloquent deliverances in America are not soon to be forgotten by us, was my home, where I was treated as a
brother. The attentions of Dr. Urwick, small in person, unimpressive in appearance, but with a heart and
mind of the noblest development, were of the most
paternal kind., I was deeply impressed with an incident which occurred at his table. Dr. Baird, who had
just landed from America, was there. "I saw your
son a short time ago in New York," said he, addressing Mrs. Urwick, who has since gone to heaven.. He
was the first person she saw who had seen that son in
the New World. It was too much for her weak frame.
She rose from the table, unable to restrain her emotions, and retired.  Who but a mother knows the
depths of a mother's heart? And with Dr. Kirkpatrick
and the Rev. Richard Dill I was permitted to renew the
acquaintance which I had the pleasure to make with
them at Belfast And the favors conferred upon me
by these brethren, and by other distinguished citizens
of Dublin,- at a public meeting in the Rotunda, and at
a public breakfast at Freemason's Tavern, in Dame
Street, will be ever and gratefully remembered.
A better and brighter day is dawning upon Ireland.
Education is extending among the people. The power of the priest, which has only been a power for evil,
is giving way. The Protestant Churches are waking
up to a sense of their high missions to the people. The
ministers of the Established Church begin to feel that
they should do something for the salvation of the peo.




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              257
Brighter day.                       Population changing.
pie, who have only known them as fox and hare hunters, fine livers, and tithe proctors. The lands are passing out of the hands of bankrupt proprietors into those
of persons of wealth, who can improve them and relieve
the tenants.  The vast exodus of the Papal population
to this and qther lands is making way for English and
Scotch farrntrs, who are going over in large numbers,
and carrying with them Protestantism and habits of industry. And to& prospect is most promising, that by
the blessing of (od upon these and other means which
are quietly at work, Ireland will again assume the position which ages ago she held for intelligence, religion,
and high civilization among the nations of the earth.
When all her people are educated-when the religion
of the Bible is received by them, then the jealousies of
sects and of races will come to an end —priestly agitations will be known no more; and, like a tempest-tossed vessel anchoring in a quiet harbor, it will quietly
rest under the smile of God.




258            MEN AND ~THINGS
From Dublin.         A difference.       Up the Clyde.
CHAPTER XLI.
Down the Liffey..-Up the Clyde.-Glasgow.-John Henderson.-The
Cathedral. — Necropolis.- M'Gavin.- Communio! Service.- Tokens and Tables. Pew Communion. -Dr. Gordon.-The Irish
Mission. —Gaelic Chapel.-Dr. Candlish. —Mdel School. —Examination.-A Dinner-party.-Edinburgh desceid.
IT was five o'clock in the afternoon when I bid farewell to the dear friends of Dublin, and when the steamer "Vanguard" turned her prow down the Liffey for
Glasgow. And I thought of the day when, a youth, I
sailed down the same waters in the "lV Martha," to seek
a home beyond the waves of the Atlantic. And what
induced me, yet a lad, thus to throw myself on the
world?  The hand of God was in it. I went out, not
knowing whither I went; but God knew.  Soon we
passed Kingston and Howth; and as the shores of Ireland receded from view, and the heavings of the blue
sea commenced exciting some symptoms of internal
commotion, I went quietly to my shelf, leaving the
"Vanguard" to make her way through the Channel
without my guidance or care. I awoke in the Firth
of the Clyde, in the morning.  Soon we left the barren
hills of Arran behind us; soon those of Bute. After
stopping an hour at Greenock, we continued our course
by Dumbarton Castle and town to Glasgow, where we
arrived at noon.
The sail up the Clyde is pleasant, and, to a stranger,
interesting. The hills are treeless, and covered only




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              259
Clyde and Hudson.       Glasgow.           Cathedral.
with heather. The houses on the water's edge are
without any shelter. Villages are frequent, and wear
an appearance of neatness. Above Greenock, the channel of the river becomes winding and narrow, and the
navigation slow and difficult; and while the scenery
is pleasing, every thing is on a cabinet scale. It bears
scarcely a comparison with a sail up the Hudson.
Glasgow is the Manchester of Scotland, and is increasing like an American city. It has now a population of 360,000, while in 1830 it had only about
200,000. While almost exclusively a commercial city,
it has several literary, and, many charitable and philanthropic institutions. Its churches are numerousmany of its clergy have an American as well as a European reputation; and many of its princely merchants
consecrate their wealth and influence to arrest the tide
of wickedness flowing in upon it because of its mercantile and manufacturing prosperity. Among these
are John Henderson, of Park, one of the co-laborers of
Sir Andrew Agnew on the better sanctification of the
Sabbath, and upon whom' the mantle of the departed
baronet seems to have fallen.
The old Cathedral and the Necropolis alone possessed any peculiar interest to me. The first is almost the
only ecclesiastical building of the Middle Ages left
north of the Tweed, and is venerable for its antiquity;
but, interiorly, the unity of its design is entirely destroyed by its being fitted up for Protestant worship.
Its crypt is said to be one of the finest in Europe, in
which, our guide informed us, lie buried the remains
of Irving.  The Necropolis, which is the Pdre la Chaise
of Glasgow, forms a fine background to the Cathedral,




260            MEN AND THINGS
Necropolis.         Monuments.           Edinburgh.
from which it is separated by a small streamlet or
"burn," which babbles along its stony bed to the Clyde.
On passing over this burn on "the Bridge of Sighs,"
you ascend up by a steep, winding path; and when
you reach the summit of the grounds, the Cathedral of
St. Mungo and Glasgow lie at your feet. The view
from this point is extended for such a hilly country,
and is very fine. There are two monuments which arrest the attention of every visitor: the first and most
conspicuous is that erected to the memory of John
Knox; and the other is that erected to perpetuate the
memory of iMI'Gavin, the author of "The Protestant,"
and who was a banker and merchant of this city. He
was a man of learning, piety, philanthropy; and although his memory is blackened in every way by papal
bishops and "the inferior clergy," it is held in the
very highest repute by the people of Glasgow. Were
they not such stanch Protestants, and were it not for
the fear of placing him in bad company, they would
put him in the calendar. They know too much of the
history of papal saints to place their noble and fearless
fellow-citizen on a par with such ignorant and wicked
sensualists and fanatics. The time from Glasgow to
Edinburgh is less than two hours; and I reached the
Athens of the North late on Saturday evening.
My first Sabbath in Scotland was a most interesting
one. It was communion at Free St. Mary's, of which
the venerable and beloved Dr. Henry Gray is pastor.
As we entered the church, a table with plates on it,
and around which stood several persons, first presented
itself. All that entered placed some money on the
plates'. And this custom we observed every where in




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.             261.
Communion season.                    Tokens and tables.
Scotland where we worshiped. When the people go
up to worship God, they are " careful to remember the
poor." This saves from our unseemly way of taking
up collections, whether with plates or with bags, which
often detracts more from the solemnity of a service than
the collections benefit. The pastor, wearing his gown
and bands,' feeble in health, thin, and tall in person,
preached a sweet sermon, and with great unction, on
the text, " Christ in you the hope of glory." Tables
and tokens were used. The first table was served by
iDr. Cunningham; and when its service was ended,
nearly all that communicated retired from the house.
The younger communicants retired at the close of the
sermon, but returned in time to commune at the last
tables. As each table has a service of its own, and
often from a different clergyman, it makes of the whole
ceremony a very protracted affair. And while impressed with the solemnity of the service, and trith the very
weighty and important exhortations made, and with
the large-number of youth that partook of the sacrament, we could not help the' conviction that "' tokens
and tables," without adding any thing, greatly detracted from the unity, the solemnity, and impressiveness
of the entire service, and tend greatly to the weariness
of pastor and people. Pew communion, as with us,
where the old and young met together without noise
or changing of seats, where all remain until the service
is -ended, where all are invited to partake who make a
credible profession of religion, placing the responsibility of partaking urvorthily upon themselves, we believe
to be the more excellent way. The rule which would'
bind us in this -matter to the way of our Scotch and




262            MEN AND THINGS
Dr. Gordon.        A mistake.         Singular audience.
Irish ancestry, is better in the breach than in the observance.
We went in the afternoon to hear Dr. Gordon in his
new edifice by the new college of the Free Church.
His congregation was large and attentive. The doctor
is a small, lean man, past sixty years of age, with thin
gray hair, high forehead, and with a general expression
of countenance more amiable than intellectual. With
a feeble, but yet distinct and effective voice, he preached an excellent sermon. The seat of his elders is on a
range with the pulpit, and almost as high; among
whom sat Dr. Duff. Dr. Cunningham is one of his elders. As'a pious, judicious man, consecrated to his
work, and safe in all his measures and influences, Dr.
Gordon stands very high in Britain.
As Dr. Candlish was advertised to preach in the Gaelic chapel, under the shadow of the castle, in the evening, I took a lng walk to hear him. Following a crowd,
I pressed my way into a circular building to a position
where I had a full view of what was going on. The
pulpit, standing on one side near the floor, was occupied by two ministers, while seats rose one above another to the very roof; and these seats all the way up
were crowded densely with a most interested auditory.
The men in the pulpit were asking questions of persons on the opposite side of the house, and on the highest seats. They replied in a peculiar accent, and often asked questions in turn.  Persons through the
house asked questions, and often interposed. Sheridan
Knowles sat near the pulpit, and addressed the people.
Dr. Begg was there and spoke.' Sommebody said something about the Savior reducing the Ten Command



AS SEEN IN EUROPE.             263
A good hit.        Irish mission.       Dr. Candlish.
ments to two, while the Papists made two of one, and
thus made eleven commandments. " And sure," said
a man with a droll voice and accent, throwing a broad
smile over the whole auditory, " and sure, if you Protestants can get along with two commandments, we
Roman Catholics ought to be able to get along with
eleven."  Astonished at all I saw and heard, I asked,
"Is that Dr. Candlish, and is this the'Gaelic chapel?"
"Oh, no," said the person I addressed, " this is the
service of the Irish mission; Dr. Candlish is preaching
in the church opposite." The chief man in the pulpit
was the Rev. Peter Ml'enomy; a converted Papist, a
minister of the Free Church, and at the head of the
Edinburgh mission to the Irish Papists; and the persons to whom he was propounding questions were Irish
papists, with whom he often held these keen discussions, and hundreds of whom were led to give up the
missal for the Bible, and the mumbling of the mass for
the true worship of God.
From the crowded mission house I passed over to
the Gaelic chapel, equally crowded, on the opposite side.
They were singing when I entered; and they were all
singing. And such a shout of hearty devotion I had
never heard. Dr. Candlish, very small, very thin, very
restless, with a finely-developed head, projecting forehead, and a quick, restless eye, was alone in the pulpit.
He laid himself down on the Bible when he prayed.
His voice is not well modulated.  He preached on the
faith of Abraham, with contortions of person and countenance, and of his gown and bands, which were sometimes ludicrous enough. Some of his positions and gestures were almost as awkward, as violent, and as elo.




264           MEN AND THINGS
His sermon.         Schools.           Examination.
quent as were those of Dr. Duff at Exeter Hall. The
sermon was abstract and very able, and was heard
throughout with fixed attention; but a friend suggested that he put thoughts into the mind of Abraham of
which the good old patriarch had never even dreamed.
I gave to the suggestion my assent. He is making his
mark upon Scotland. Though odd in his manners,
which are often abrupt and bluff, he is-most affable,
and full of conversation. He is a man of great and
varied powers.
Nothing more deeply interested me in Edinburgh
than the examinations of their schools. On invitation,
I went with Dr. Candlish to the examination of.the
model school of the Free Church, which occupies the
house of the good regent, Murray; and where you are
shown a thorn-bush planted by Queen Mary, and the
room in which the treaty with England was signed.
Many of the clergy and of the teachers of the city
were there. The examination was thorough, and remarkably well sustained. Never did I hear such an
examination in the Shorter Catechism. By boys and
girls, ranging from twelve to eighteen or twenty years,
it was analyzed with a dexterity and readiness which
showed that it was placed on the same ground as
algebra, Euclid, grammar, and geography in the
science of education.  And it is this attention to
thorough religious instruction in their youth which
has given the Scotch a character for principle and
honesty above any other people. After the close of
the examination we repaired to the house of Mr.
Johnstone, the enterprising publisher, and sat down to
dinner with a company of authors, scholars, and teach



AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              265
Ditiner-iarty.  Edinburgh.           Standing argument.
ers, among whom were Dr. Cunningham, Dr. M'Crie,
Dr. Hetherington, Dr. Tweedie, Dr. Candlish, names
known to fame on both continents, and whose presence would give character to any assemblage. Nothing pertaining to the education of the young is beneath
the notice and patronage of Scotland's noblest men.
And so it should be in all the earth.
Edinburgh is a city beautiful for situation. In
panoramic splendor it is not surpassed by any city of
Europe. The solitary grandeur of Arthur's Seat-the
castle frowning from its airy height in the midst of
the city —Calton Hill, with its observatory, monuments, and unfinished Parthenon, a monument to the
pride and poverty of Scotland-the estuary of Forth,
expanding into the ocean-the surrounding Pentland,
Lammermoor, and Grampian Hills —the picturesque
disorder of the Old Town, and the almost painful proportions and elegance of the New, form features of a
landscape of;great beauty and sublimity.  But its
true glory lies in its commodious churches, its very
able and evangelical ministry, its literary, moral, and
religious institutions, and the general intelligence and
morality of its people. In'all these respects, it stands
pre-eminent among the cities of the earth. The world
may revile John Knox, and ignorant sectaries may
defame the doctrine and order which are distinctively
Presbyterian, but Edinburgh and all Scotland present
a standing argument in the vindication of both which
no mind of ordinary fairness can either gainsay or contradict.




266            MEN AND THINGS
Rev. J. A. James.      To Oban.          Passengers.
CHAPTER XLII.
Park.-Rev. J. A. James.-Sail to Oban.-Oban.-Royalty in Exile.
-Sail round Mull.-Staffa: its Cave.-Iona: its History.-Ruins.
-Culdees.-Royal Graves.-The ruling Passion.-Stone Crosses.
-Talk on the Wheel-box.
THAT was a pleasant evening which I spent at Park,
on the Clyde, the residence of John Henderson, Esquire.
It was there I met the Rev. John Angel James, of Birmingham, so widely known for his many pious, evangelical, and greatly useful works. He is very much
like his books, pious, elegant, chaste in conversation,
very affable, and by no means so English as many of
his portraits would represent him. Deeply to my re.
gret, he was prevented, by indisposition, from being
my fellow-traveler to the Highlands.
Taking a steamer at Park, we sailed down by Greenock to the Firth of Clyde, and thence by the Kyles of
Bute to Loch-Fine, and thence by the Crinan Canal
through a great many islands up to Oban. The day
was calm and warm, and the sail was magnificent,
with the Highlands and islands constantly before us,
and the scenery changing, at every turn. We had on
board a large company of hounds and huntsmen, and
quite a sprinkling of nobility, on their way to the shooting and hunting grounds in the Highlands. The dogs
were the only passengers to whom the nobility paid
much attention.




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              267
Oban.             Royalty in exile.       Round Mull.
Oban is most pleasantly situated at the head of a
small bay. Upon a cliff near the town stands the ivyclad ruins of Dunolly Castle, the ancient fortress of the
MacDougals of Lorn, once a most powerful clan. From
the heights above the town are fine views of the sea,
of the Isle'of Mull, and of many smaller islands, each
of which have their spirit-stirring history.  It was on
these heights I saw, save in the case of soldiers, the
only Highland dress I saw in Scotland. And it was
worn by a man upward of sixty years of age, of proud
bearing, and probably one of the descendants of the
"Lords of the Isles."  In this Highland village we
found the ex-Queen of France, the widow of Louis
Philippe, with some of her children, her suite. and her
priests. O what a change from Paris to Oban, and
from the Tuileries and Versailles to the Caledonia
Hotel! Royalty in exile!
We took the steamer early in the morning for Staffa
and Iona, those celebrated islands on the western-shores
of Scotland. The day was bright and calm, and without a ripple on the ocean.  On that little island Alexander II. died in 1247, and Haco of Norway met his
confederate chieftains. That little island was anciently
the residence of the bishops of Argyle.  There, on t l
shores of Mull, is the "Lady Rock," where Maclean
exposed his wife to be swept away by the tide; but
she was rescued by some of her father's followers. Ignorant of her rescue, Maclean had for her a mock funeral; and was soon afterward put to death by the
friends of his injured wife. And there " is woody Morven," famed in the rhapsodies of Ossian. And as we
rounded the last promontory of Mull, the islands of




268            MEN AND THINGS
Stafa,             Cave of Fingal.           Columns.
which we were in search were seen quietly reposing
like sea-birds on the bosom of the Atlantic.
Staffa rises from the ocean straight as a wall, and is
of very irregular shape. It is about half a mile square
on the top, which is reached with difficulty by means
of a ladder. The great attraction of this island is its
peculiar basaltic formation, and the " Cave of Fingal."
This cave is one of the world's wonders.  It is about
seventy feet high, thirty-six wide, and recedes inward
about two hundred and fifty feet.  The entire front
and sides are composed of countless basaltic columns,
beautifully jointed, and of symmetrical though varied
forms.  The roof is composed of a rich grouping of
overhanging pillars, some of them of snowy whiteness
from their calcareous incrustations.  The ocean ebbs
and flows in this cave, and at full tide boats can go
back and forth through its entire length. The columns
on the island are sometimes perpendicular, sometimes
oblique, and sometimes nearly horizontal.  They are
generally pentagonal and hexagonal; sometimes they
have seven or nine sides; but they are rarely triangular or rhomboidal.  Nor are their angles so sharp, nor
are the blocks so exquisitely united, as those of the
Giant's Causeway, in Ireland.  Yet so closely are they
often jointed as not to admit between them the blade
of a knife.
But neither pencil nor pen can adequately describe
this wonder of nature to those who have never seen it.
" If this cave were destitute of the order, the symmetry, the richness arising from the multiplicity of parts,
combined with the greatness of dimensions and simplicity of style which it possesses; still, the prolonged




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.               269
Attractions.     Iona.          Monument to Leigh Richmond.
length, the irregular galleries, the twilight gloom, the
echoes of the surge as it rises and falls, the transparent
green of the water, and the fairy solitude of the whole
scene, can not fail permanently to impress any mind
gifted with any sense of beauty in nature or art."' And
although without inhabitant, without hamlet or hut
under which to take shelter from rain or storm, and
exposed to every wind that sweeps the sea, it is yet
visited yearly by thousands, solely attracted by the
wonderful formation and caves of Staffa, where
"Nature itself, it seem'd, would raise
A Minster to her Maker's praise."
After spending some hours amid these wonders, we
embarked, and proceeded to Iona, but a few miles distant.  Here we went ashore in boats, and were met
by a crowd of children, wishing to sell us pebbles and
relies of the island. Unlike Staffa, it lies low, possesses a surface of about ten square miles, and has about
400 inhabitants.  There is an Established and Free
Church, which would seem to indicate a waste of men
and money. But we were told that at the disruption,
the minister, who yet is on the island, and almost all
the people, went out with the Free Church, which rendered the erection of a new church necessary.  We
here found a circulating library of religious books, kept
in a neat room of one of the tenants, who was its librarian, and which was established by Leigh Richmond,
on his visit to Iona. What a useful monument to com.
memorate the visit of that excellent Christian minister.
The great attraction of this island is in its history
and ruins.  When corruption had deeply infected the
Church, and wars and rumors of wars filled all the na



270            MEN AND THINGS
Culdees.             Their history.          Ruins.
tions of Europe, a class of religious people fled to this
lonely island for the cultivation of religion and letters.
These mostly came from Ireland, led by a Christian
minister named Columba, and subsequently received
the name of Culdees. For ages together they maintained their simple habits and worship, uncorrupted by
the errors, and unseduced by the arts and wiles of Popery. This island long continued the great luminary
of Scotland and Ireland, and sent out from its narrow
domain the men that kept the lamps of religion and
learning trimmed and burning in the surrounding islands for many centuries.  The Culdees were finally
compelled to yield to the all-corrupting power of Rorne.
At one time they were attacked by the piratical Danes;
at another by the Norwegians; and they suffered terribly in the conflicts between the Picts and Scots. In
877 they fled to Ireland. Their abbot was slain, and
their monastery pillaged in 985. In 1059 their monastery was consumed. They lingered for nearly a century afterward amid the ruins of their sacred island,
when they were scattered over Scotland, and kept the
lights of truth burning until the Reformation, which
they'all hailed as the work of God.
And there before you stand the ruins of their famous
old monastery, and of the chapel where these Culdees
preached and prayed. The feelings which the first
view of them excites is peculiar, after sailing for hours
among the barren islands between them  and Oban.
They rise out of the deep, giving to the desolate region
an air of civilization, and stand up a monument to the
memory of the pious and holy men whose works yet
praise them, though the names of most of themn have




AS SEEN  IN EUROPE.               271
Holy island.-       The baptistry.       Singular question.
passed away from the records of men. This was esteemed in Denmark and Norway, as well as in Ireland
and Scotland, " an holy island;" and hence you are
shown lines of graves of Danish and Scottish kings.
On their death they were taken to the " holy isle" for
sepulture. In wandering around the ruins, we came
to what: was obviously the well of the monastery, now
almost filled up with rubbish. "What was this?" said
a lady of the company.  " No doubt the old well of
the Culdees," was the reply.  "As the Culdees were
Baptists, was it not probably their baptistry?" said an
intelligent Baptist clergyman from London, who was
one of the company. It was the ruling passion strong
in Iona. Of the three hundred and sixty-five stone
crosses which studded this little isle,but one now remains, which is a rudely-carved pillar twelve or fifteen
feet high, and is called the MacLean Cross, after the
clan which was once chief among these islands. And
as our steamer turned her prow toward Oban, I threw
all the emotions of my heart into the sweet words,
"Homeward we turn. Isle of Columba's cell,
Where Christian piety's soul-cheering spark
(Kindled from heaven between the light and dark
Of time) shone like the morning star-farewell."
"'You'are from America, they tell me," said the
captain, as I stood on the wheel-box looking out upon
Mull, and straining my eyes to catch a glimpse of
Skye.  After some conversation as to localities, he
again asked, " Did you ever hear of a Bishop Hughes
in New York?" After replying in the affirmative, he
said, "I was some months ago in Sligo, where I bought
a little book called' Letters to Bishop Hughes, by




272            MEN AND THINGS
Who is Kirwan?                     Niche in the Dunciad
Kirwan.' Now I want to know if you have ever seen
it or read it?"  On replying in the affirmative, he
said, "I have read that book over and over; and I
have read it to my wife: now I want to ask if you
know who Kirwan was?"  Without revealing myself
to the honest Scot, for which I have since been sorry,
I got round the question as well as I could. "Well,"
said he, as he left me, "I should really like to know
how Bishop Hughes could get along with Kirwan."
Did I know where to find him, or how to direct it, I
would certainly send him a copy of that wonderful
production —" Kirwan Unmasked," which has done so
much to exalt the literary fame of its author. It
affords full proof of his rare qualifications for a high
niche in the Dunciad.




A&S'SE:EN:IN EUROPE.             273
-Ballahilish.            Glencoe.               Scenery.
CHAPTER XLIII.
To Ballahulish.-Glencoe: its Wildness.-Ossian's Birth-place.Massacre.-Scotch Bittock.-A Moor. —Barren Possessions.-Duke
of Breadalbane. -Loch Lomond. —Sketches from Nature.-Inversnaid.-A  Cabin.-Loch;Katrine.-Trosachs.-Our Coachman.Sabbath in Callander.-Identity of the Gaelic and Irish Languages.
-Comparison.-To Liverpool.
WE took an early -start from Oban for Loch Lomond.
We sailed up Lochs Linnhe, and Appan, and:Levin,
which are only salt-water bays, sprinkled all over with
barren islands, and were landed at a most miserable
village called Ballahulish, where is a very extensive
slate quarry.  The houses, the women, and the children forcibly recalled some of the villages that we:had
seen in Connaught.  Here we took a stage, and rode
at a fearful rate through the celebrated pass of Glencoe, to see which was our object in taking this route
This pass or gorge is celebrated for its wildness, and
for a fearful massacre perpetrated there in 1691, that
leaves a stain upon the character of King William
which no effort has been able to remove.  The lower
portion of it is cultivated; but every sign of cultivation
disappears as you advance. Soon you are in a defile,
wild to savageness, where you can only see the heavens
above you, and ragged rocks on either hand, lifting up
their peaks to the clouds.  Toward the head of the glen
the scenery becomes almost Alpine in rough sublimity;
you are reminded of the Alps by the -dark shadows of
M 2




274             MEN AND THINGS
Ossian's birth-place.,    Massacre,
the mountains, and by the wreaths of snow to be seen
in all their clefts. Occasionally along the road you
see in the piles of stones and sand, and the deep gulleys that interrupt your travel, the fearful power of
the mountain torrent; and for some months of the
year the scream of the eagle and the roar of these
torrents are the only sounds heard in this wastehowling wilderness. The wild stream of Cona rushes
through this glen, on the banks of which it is said
Ossian was born.  Fitting birth-place for a man of
such wild fancy!
The Mlacdonalds of this region were men of desperate character, little less than bandits. They were a
powerful clan, both as to number and courage. They
were, besides, Jacobites of the worst character, and
refused to the last submission to William. At last,
however, they took the oath of allegiance, but whether
within the prescribed time, or two or three days after,
is not iso clear.  Supposing all-was safe, Macdonald
dismissed all fear. _Two companies of soldiers marched
up the-glen, quartered among the clan as friends, and,
after enjoying their hospitality for nearly two weeks,
rose at night, and murdered thirty-eight of them in
their beds. It is supposed the criminal party to this
tragedy was Breadalbane, between whom and the
Macdonalds a long feud existed.  " Do you see that
green strip of land on the other side of the stream?"
said our furious driver.  " That is the place where
Campbell of Glenlyon murdered the Macdonalds."
And we drove on.' There is about a quarter of a
mile and a bittock of road here which is very bad;
will you walk it, gentlemen?" said the knight of the




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              275
Scotch bittock.       A moor.           Loch Lomond.
whip.  We all descended; and unless the bittocli was
six or eight times as long as the quarter, I am mistaken.  "Howy long, driver, did you say-it was up
that hill?" I inquired, as I mounted to my seat on the
top. He pretended not to hear; but he laughed outright when I told him, sweating and puffing, that the.
next time I walked up that- hill, I thought I would
ride.
Emerging from this glen, we passed over a moor thirty or forty miles wide, where there was not a habitation
visible for many miles. Nothing met the eye but the
heath and the mountain, with here and there a stag or
a flock of sheep, whose only visible means. of support
were the stones and the heather.  This is the great
hunting-ground of the Duke of Breadalbane, whose domains are said to be about sixty miles long. But if all
his possessions are like those over which we were passing, he must be poor indeed, for, surely, the more the
worse of such lands.  In the midst of this wilderness
we passed his' shooting-box," said -to contain fifty
rooms. What, then, must his palace be!. We never
heard him named but with eulogy, both as to his liberality and humble piety.
We reached Loch Lomond early in the afternoon,
and as the boat went down the lake and returned, I resolved to go with her and return, that I might have a
full view of the world-famed beauties of these waters.
At its northern extremity, where we embarked, the
lake is in form like a canal, not much wider or deeper.
Soon the scenery becomes very bold, and the waters expand.  Soon there is the appearance of a lake, when
the waters spread out into a width of five or six miles.




276            MEN AND THINGS
Up and down.      Its islands.     Sunset of Ben Lomond.
You pass under the shadow of "the lofty Ben Lo.
mond," and by many pretty islands, and within sight of
many sweet summer residences of some of the aristocracy and wealthy merchants of Glasgow; and in about
two hours you reach the wharf at its southern point.
Thence we retraced our course to Inverarnan, where
we spent the night; thus going down and up the
lake..
Lomond is the pride of Scottish lakes. It has about
thirty islands of very various sizes. On some of these
are the ruins of old fortifications; and every island,
and projecting rock, and little vale has its history. Under that shelving rock is Rob Roy's cave. That mill
stands on the patrimony of Rob; of which, when unjustly deprived, he turned freebooter. -That small
opening is the entrance to Glen Fruin, where clan lMacgregor almost annihilated the Colquhouns, and then
murdered about eighty youth who came to see the
fight. On that hill was one of the hunting-seats of
Fingal. Thus every island, vale, rock, and pass has its
bloody history.  The sun was setting over Ben Lomond as we were returning-the air was still; the lake
from its glassy bosom reflected every shadow that fell
upon it. It was the gloaming of a magnificent evening in August, which magnified every object and clothed
all nature with an enchanting mellowness.  How I
wished for the genius of an Angelo, to place on canvas
some of the enchanting pictures around me. Under
the inspiration of the hour, I absolutely drew out my
pencil and commenced sketching from nature. But so
rude were my sketches, and so unlike nature, that, ere
I left the boat, I gave them to the waters,




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              277
A cabin.            Loch Katrine.          Trosachs.
"-Famous for three things:
Waves without winds,
Fish without fins,
And an island that swims."'
Down the lake again to Inversnaid, where we landed
for Loch Katrine, five miles distant, and over a very
miserable road. I walked up the hill, and, while waiting for a drosky, entered a Highland cabin for inspection. The children could not speak English, but with
the mother I held quite a conversation.  Two not very
clean rooms made up the abode. "Granny," as the
young mother called her, lay in the second room upon
a bed of straw, one of the most lean and faded old persons I ever saw. I made an effort to speak to her, but
she knew only the Gaelic. But there was a Bible with
the Psalms on a rude shelf, and the woman was well
instructed in religious things. Her church was on the
other side of the lake, to which she went every Sunday.
One hour brought us to Loch Katrine, and soon we
were on board the smallest edition of a steamer I ever
-saw, and on the bosom of one of the smallest lakes imaginable.  First you are greatly disappointed; but as
you proceed, winding about jutting rocks, the scenery
grows in beauty, and when you reach the "Trosachs"
you are ever more exclaiming how beautiful! The
Trosachs is a name given to a space running about
three miles, partly on both sides of the lake, consisting
of hills and rocks, covered thick with moss and underwood, piled indiscriminately together, and which form
a very wild and dark scene. The plot of the " Lady
of the Lake" is laid here; and the captain of the tiny
steamer shows you the island where Ellen shot her light




278             MEN AND THINGS
Lady of the Lake.      Our driver.         His craft.
skiff to the shore-where the "noble gray" died in the
chase-and where Roderic Dhu landed. It was certainly pleasing to read the beautiful poem as I did,
amid the scenes which it describes; but I could not
resist the inference that this loch would be far less interesting if that poem had never been written. The
prose and poetry of the lake differ very considerably.
After wandering some hours amid the Trosachs, we
took stage to Callander.  The road was along small
lakes, and glens, and narrow passes, to each and all of
which the genius of Scott gave a most romantic history.
I was very fortunate in getting a seat by the side of
our driver, a fine, burly, intelligent Scotchman, with a
red coat and other insignia of office. He seemed to
have committed the Lady of the Lake to memory, and
as we passed along he would locate the various incidents narrated in it. Here was the gathering-ground
of Clan-Alpin-up that mountain the fiery-cross flew.
Yonder is the churchwhere the wedding took placethere is the hillside which was covered with men at
the sound of Roderic's bugle-horn-there is the glen
where was the deadly fight.
"They tug, they strain! down, down they go;
The Gael above-Fitz-James below."
And he would spout the passages descriptive of the
scenes in right good style, and greatly to our edification
and amusement; and when not entirely familiar with
passages,- he would draw the book from his pocket, holding it in one hand, and guiding his coach and four
with the other. But when I learned at Callander that
this was a part of his craft to get passengers, my respect for his poetic taste and voluntary rehearsals was




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.             279
Sabbath in Callander.  The worship.      The people.
greatly diminished. What a pity that a due estimate
of the motives so often diminish our regard for the
actions of men! What an annoyance, to be always
canvassing motives!
I spent the Sabbath in Callander, and mostly with
the famil of Dr. Cunningham, who was here spending
his vacaWn.  The day was a charming one, even for
Scotland. Before the hour of service I walked up and
down the street, and it was most interesting to see the
people streaming into the town in every direction, each
with his Bible under his arm.  The persons in carriages mostly went to the Established Church, but the
vast multitude flocked to the Free. When I entered
it, the house was crowded in all its parts. Soon a minister entered the pulpit, in gown and bands, and commenced the service; after which, not an individual entered the house. All sang; and the singing was conducted from a desk beneath the pulpit. The whole
church was vocal with praise. When the text was
announced, all turned to it in their own Bibles. When,
in the course of the sermon, a reference was made to
Scripture, the people turned to it. Everybody seemed
attentive, although the sermon was long, and to me dry,
though thoroughly evangelical. At the close of the
service there was a mutual and kindly recognition of
the worshipers, who retired from the town in troops, as
they came, each with a Bible under their arm; the
most decent, orderly, intelligent, devout class of peasantry that I ever saw, or perhaps that the world knows.
I went to the Established Church in the afternoon,
which was in every respect a poor affair. A few persons: sat in. the gallery, arid fewer yet on the first floors




280.MrET N AN D THINGS
Established Church.   Gaelic service.     The people.
I sat on a dirty seat, and my feet were on the ground,
and a little-urchin was playing, through the whole service, among the seats with the stones and gravel.  The
whole service was in Gaelic, the first I ever heard, and
it struck me as unique. The hearers were few, and
generally old.  The old women wore whitqeigh caps
without bonnets, and looked exceedingly[rimitive.
The precentor lined the psalm, and sung it; but where
he stopped reading and commenced singing, or the contrary, it was difficult to tell, save by the noises of the
people around. Worse singing none could desire, and
but few could endure. Yet it seemed to the taste of
the people, who will suffer no changes in music rendered venerable by being chanted in these fastnesses
for three centuries.' The sermon was long to me, who
could not understand a word of it; but the people hung
upon the preacher's lips, who now and then rose up to
the region of earnestness.  The whole scene-men,
women, minister, singing, and all-recalled the earlier
worship of the Covenanters; and the life-like representations, in pictures, of that worship can not be: fully understood by those who have never seen a Gaelic congregation worshiping in the Highlands.  The people
before me were the unchanged descendants of their
sires. Any of them might be taken for the picture of
a Covenanter. The church was very thinly attended,
owing partly to the service being in Gaelic, but mainly to the fact that almost all the Highlands have gone
with the Free Church.
It is now increasingly evident that the Gaelic and
the Irish are the same language.  I met with a lady
from the Highlands in the Ballinglen school, in Ireland,
who, from her knowledge of the Gaelic, read and spoke




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.               281
Gaelic and Irish identical.  Churches.      Preaching.
the Irish fluently.  And the Rev. Mr. Brannagan, of
the Irish mission, on his first hearing a Gaelic sermon,
understood it perfectly; and, on a visit to Callander,
he found no difficulty in conversing with persons in
Gaelic who did not understand English. This may
lead to most important results in the efforts now making to evangelize Ireland. The identity of language
opens a wide field for missionaries from the Highlands.
In Scotland the churches are far plainer than with
us.  Those of Drs. Candlish, Gordon, and Guthrie, of
Edinburgh, the most fashionable there, are not to be
compared with our best class of churches.  The same
is true of the churches in England and Ireland. They
seem to go upon the principle, which has too much evidence to substantiate it, that gay churches, gay people, and lax doctrine and discipline, go together.  The 
preaching is simple and scriptural, and far more earnest than with us, but not so well arranged or digested. But their congregations far surpass ours in earnest
worship. The heartlessness and frivolity often seen in
American churches I never witnessed in any Protestant
congregations abroad.  I have not a doubt but that-the
Presbyterianism  of Scotland is the purest, the truest,
the most spiritual type of Christianity known among
men.
My time for homeward voyage was drawing nigh,
and delay was no longer possible; and I was away
from  Callander, through Stirling to Edinburgh; and
from the Athens of the North, through Lanark, Lockerbie, to Gretna; and through Carlisle and Preston to
Liverpool, where I rested for a few days, enjoying the
hospitality of dear -Christian friends while finishing my
preparations for home.




282             MEN AND THINGS
Ride to Bangor.                            Menai Straits.
CHtAPTEiR XLIV.
To Wales.-Menai Straits.-Tubular Bridge.-Length.-View from
beneath: from the Top.-Last View.-Friends at Liverpool.-Sail.
ing.-Voyage.-Passengers.-Last Evening.-Our Farewell.
BY an old and kind friend, now making his mark in
the commercial circles of Liverpool, a visit was projected for me to Wales, and to the Britannia Bridge,
famous in all the earth as'a work of art.  The Rev.
Mr. Roberts, a Dissenting clergyman, was my companion. We passed through old Chester, visiting its Cathedral, its Roman wall, Holywell, St. Asaph's, Conway
to Bangor, near to which are the famous suspension
and tubular bridges. During this ride on the Chester
and Holyhead railway, the mountains of Wales, propping the skies, were on one side of us, and the sea,
white with canvas, on the other. We stopped at the,bridge, and after the effect of our astonishment so far
subsided as to permit us to go on, we went under it,
and through it, and over it.
The Menai Straits is an arm of the sea, separating
the Isle of Anglesea from the main land, through which
the waters of the Irish Sea and of St. George's Channel rush with great force. In this channel, and between very high banks, the tide rises- nearly thirty
feet, and the waters are eternally vibrating in a current, whether in or out, of from seven to ten miles an
hour. The question to be solved was, how the railway




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.              283
Question solved.    The bridge.       View from the top.
connecting Dublin by Holyhead with London, could
be carried over these straits? And the question was
solved by the erection of this wonderful bridge, far
more wonderful than the Pyramids of Egypt. I will
attempt a brief description of it.
On either side of the straits are built vast abutments,
and rising about two hundred feet from amid the waters are three vast tapering towers; and upon these
abutments and towers the vast iron tubes are laid,
through which heavily-laden railway trains are whistling almost every hour of the day.  The length of this
tube is but a little less than two thousand feet; while
its two main spans, reaching over the deepest waters,
are each four hundred and sixty feet.  Through this
tube there is a double track, and so firmly is it constructed that it scarcely vibrates when a heavily-laden
train is flying through it.
You are amazed as you look up from the waters
upon the stupendous structure hanging in the air above
you, and when you see long trains of cars flying in at
the one side and flying out at the other! And you
are amazed, when you pass through it, at the genius
which contrived it, and at the skill which executed it.
But your amazement rises into rhapsody as you ascend
to the top of the tube and walk over its extreme length.
Beneath you the cars are flying laden with passengers,
and in the waters yet farther beneath yot ships are
sailing with all their canvas flying. I was in the air
above while several vessels of three or four hundred
tons burden passed beneath.  On one side of you the
famous Suspension Bridge hangs in the air, over which
carriages and wagons are passing, which in the dis



284            MEN AND THINGS
Magnificent.        Mrs. Duncan.          Departure
tance seem to have nothing to sustain them. On another side is seen reposing in beauty the marble castle
of the Marquis of Anglesea, on a green lawn sloping
to the water, and shaded with trees of unknown age.
East and west are seen the glittering waters of the
Irish Sea and St. George's Channel; while the southern
horizon is bounded by the hills of Caernarvon, among
which the patriarch Snowdon lifts his bold and rugged
head to the clouds.
It was enough. We descended. And as we walked
toward Bangor, we felt in kind as we did when taking
our last view of St. Peter's and of the glorious Alps.
It was truly refreshing to meet in Liverpool Mrs.
Mary Lundy Duncan, whom I left in America, whose
literary labors are so excellent and useful, and whose
visit to our country will not be soon forgotten by those
who had the privilege and pleasure of making her acquaintance. Having seen her in my own house, she
gave me a home feeling whenever I met her, which
was almost daily during my sojourn.
The day of our departure was come. At noon we
left Prince's wharf for the noble steamer Atlantic, which
lay in the river. Mrs. Duncan and other dear friends
accompanied us to the ship. Soon Captain West took
his stand on the wheel-house, and ordered all, save passengers, ashore. It was a tender hour. Some were
parting tomneet no more this side of the grave; and
they so felt. Soon our wheels were in motion. We
waved handkerchiefs to the dear friends we were leaving as long as we could distinguish them. As Liverpool and New Brighton died away behind us, we turned our eyes to the scenes that were before us.  Soon




AS SEEN IN EUROPE.             285
Passengers.       Voyage.         -   ast service on board.
we passed the Skerries and Holyhead. Soon the rockbound shore of Erin rose to view; and soon, leaving
Cape Clear behind us, we were out on the broad bosom
of the sea. Our passengers were numerous, and of every variety. There were ministers, physicians, editors,
lawyers, merchants, farmers, mechanics, and play-actors. Some were well, and some were very ill bred
persons. Nor did it take either long to show their nature.  Some were returning from the "World's Fair,"
which had attractions for all kinds of people, and our
captain had never a more miscellaneous company.
With the usual attendants on a voyage, such as head
winds, high and smooth seas, sea-sickness, the usual
alternations between eating, drowsing, and sleeping,!
we pursued our course, our wheels never ceasing for a
moment to revolve until we entered the Bay of New
York.
Our last evening on board was the evening of the
Sabbath. We had taken a pilot, and our noble captain resigned his noble ship to his care. We meet in
the cabin for evening service. The closing address was
from the words " Finally, brethren, farewell." And as
we commended each other in prayer to God, and implored the protection of Heaven upon our ship and her
commander through all their future voyages, the deepest solemnity pervaded the entire company. And as
we sung a parting hymn, every bosom swelled with
emotion, and many eyes were overflowing with tears.
We retired; and when we awoke in the morning, the
Atlantic lay quietly at her pier.
THE END.