LIFE AND LET7TERS
OF
WASHINGTON  IRVING.












AD




THE
LIFE AND LETTERS
OF
WVASHINGTON IRVING.
BY HIS NEPHEW
PIERRE M. IRVING.
VOLUME II.
NEW YORK:
G. P. PUTNAM, 532 BROADWAY.
1862.




Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1862, by
PIERRE M. IRVING,
In the District Court of the United States for the Southern District of New York.
JOHN F. TROW,
PRINTER AND STEREOTYPER,
50 Grcene Street.




CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
Letter to William Irving-A steamboat enterprise-Embarks the value of his
literary property in it-How William and John regarded the project-Lodgings in
Paris-Growing popularity of the Sketch Book in England-Its parentage ascribed
to Scott-Correspondence on the subject-Christmas invitation-Murray authorizes draft of one hundred guineas for Sketch Book, in addition to the terms agreed
upon, and publishes Knickerbocker-Letter to Leslie-Hils designs for Knickerbocker-His May-day-His likeness of Geoffrey-Peter Powell's burlesque account
of its costume-The Author's sensitive comment, and Leslie's reply-Subjects
chosen by Leslie for Knickerbocker-The Author's opinion of them-Increasing
reputation in England,.                                                   13
CHAPTER II.
Makes the acquaintance of Thomas Moore, the poet-Visit to the prison of
Marie Antoinette-Letter to Brevoort-Reasons for remaining abroad-MooreCanning-Moore's hint of the origin of Bracebridge Hall-Another glimpse of
Irving from Moore-John Howard Payne-Talma-Iis performance of HamletLetter to Leslie-Kenney, author of Raising the Wind, etc.-Luttrel-Introduced
to the IIollands-Murray begs his acceptance of an additional one hundred pounds
for the Sketch Book-The Author's letter thereupon-Reads manuscript to Moore
-Bancroft-Sets off for England July 11th, hoping to have something ready for
the press by autumn,.....33
CHAPTER III.
The coronation of George IV.-Meeting with Scott-Detained in London about
a play of Payne-Dragging of the steamboat affairs-Letter to Peter thereupon



6                                  CONTENTS.
Literary concerns-Excursion to Birmingham with Leslie-The Stout GentlemanIts moral-Kept at Birmingham  by illness-Letter to Ebenezer about literary
matters-Letter to Leslie-The children — George —Newton's introduction to La
Butte by himself-Leslie and Powell's joint account of their housekeeping in
Buckingham  Place-Letter to Leslie-Letter to Ebenezer Irving, Nov. 1, after
tidings of a sister's bereavement-Death of his brother William-Letter from
N ewton-Moore,......                                                       52
CHAPTER IV.
Return to London-Letter to Ebenezer-Transmits first volume of Bracebridge
Hall-Moses Thomas-Cooper and The Spy-Sends off Vol. II. Bracebridge Iall
-Makes contract with Murray for publication in England-Letter to Peter-Begins
to make calls-Goes with Moore to breakfast at Holland IIouse-Letter to Brevoort-John Randolph-Mrs. Siddons-Visit to Wimbledon, one of the country
seats of Earl Spencer-Meeting with Rogers-Letter to Mrs. Paris-Visit to the
country seat of Thomas H-Iope-Lines written in the Deep Dene Album -Letter to
Brevoort —Anastasiuse-Rogers-Mlathews, the comedian- Preparing for an excursion into Germany,.......70
CHAPTER V.
From  London to IIeidelberg —Amsterdam-Aix-la-Chapelle-The cathedralOld custom-An old acquaintance-Convoy to Wisbaden-The Grman style of
living-Scene of the Spectre Bridegroom- -A German carriage and driver-Mayence-A continental inn-Introduction to the Tales of a Traveller-Katrina-A
tedious malady-The IIu(son and the Rhine-Frankfort-The lir-The   vintageHeidelberg-Letter from Moore,......90
CHAPTER VI.
Letters to  Mrs.e. Van Wart-I-eidelberg-Baden-Old  castle-Subterranean
apartments-Secret tribunal — Pays d'Or-Strasbourg-Adicu to the Rhine —The
Black Forest-Ulm-The field of Blenheim - Munich - Eugene BeauharnoisTranslation of Sketch Book-Bracebridge -Iall-Salsburg-Vienna-The  young
Napoleon-Castle of Dunstein-Convent of Gottwied,...             109
CHAPTER VII.
From Vienna to Dresden-Prague —Puts up at Hotel. de Saxe, Drsden —Intimacy -with an English famlily-Mrs. Fuller's impressions of the Author-Letter to
Leslie-Extracts from  note-book-Presentaltion at court-Diinner with the royal
family-Private theatricals —  Letter to Mrs. Van Wart-Letter to Peter-Boar




CONTENTS.                                      7
hunt-The conspiracy-Plays Sir Charles Rackett in Three Weeks after Marriage
-Peter-New discouragements with the steamboats,..                          125
CHAPTER VIII.
Letter to Leslie —Extracts from note-book-Performance of Don Felix il The
Wonder-Birthd'ay Tableaux-Presented to the Queen of Bavaria —Fined for
firing a pistol-Italian, French, and German Studies-Lines to Miss E. Foster, on
her birthday —Leaves Dresden on a tour with Captain Cockburn to the Giant
Mountains-Detained at Prague by the illness of his companion-Extracts from
letters to Mrs. Foster-Returns to Dresden-Journey fiom  Dresden with Mrs.
Foster and family-Storm-Adlventure —Extracts from letter to Peter-Arrives at
Paris,.......                                                                   144
CHAPTER IX.
A.t Paris-Out of spirits for literary occupation-Thinks of German subjectsFalls in with Payne, the American dramatist-Embarks with him  in dramatic
labors-Peter's economy-Washingtoi's philosophy thereupon-Busy on Richelieu-Visits Peter at Havre-New lodgings on his return-Payne goes to London
with Richelieu, Married and Single, and a rough copy of Azendai-Letter from
Payne-Representation of Charles II.-Payne's opinion of it-Copp's song and
Charles Lamb —Results of the joint theatrical speculations-The fate of Richelieu
-Dedication by Payne,.......                                            164
CHAPTER X.
Bevolving literary plans-Extracts fronm  note-book-Talma-Admiral Harvey
-Kenney's Anecdotes-Lord  John Russell-Captain Medwin-Byron-PastaCorrects Salmagundi for Galignani-Letter to Leslie —Proposition of Galignani for
an edition of British Authors-Project of a second Sketch Book-Letter to Murray
about Tales of a Traveller,.....                        177
CHAPTER XI.
Arrival in London-Letter to Peter-Inteirview with Murray-Attends representation of Charles II.-Leslic-Nelwton-Moore-WVilliamr  Spencer-RogersLady Caroline Lamb-The man of many invitations-Leaves London with Mills
for Manor -ouse, Lyndhurst —Goes to Bath to meet Moore-Elwyn's dinner-Extracts from memoriandum boolk-Farewell to Moore-Visit to his Dresden friends,
the Fosters-Letter to Peter-Murray advertises Salmagundi-Intent on literary
occupation-Dinner with Rogers-His good story of a French abb —Falls short in
manuscript for Tales of a Traveller-Supplies the deficiency-Starts for FranceLetter to Moore on the way-Moore's reply-Kenney and Scroope Davies,    193




8                                 CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XII.
Publication of the Tales of a Traveller-Letter to Mrs. Paris-His opinion of
the Tales of a Traveller-Death of Louis XVIII.-Passes two days in the old
chateau of Uss —The Duchess of Duras-Description of his bachelor establishment in Paris-Interruptions of society-His evil genius-Downhearted-Letter
to Pierre Paris Irving-Letter to Leslie-Letter to tBrevoort-Close of 1824,   212
CHAPTER  XIII.
Extracts from Diary-West-Medwin-Anecdote of General Jackson at New
Orleans-Letter to Pierre Paris Irving-Overtures for a Life of Washington-Unable to apply himself-Paulding's rebuke-Disastrous investments-Determines to
go to work-Leaves Paris with Peter for Bordeaux-The vintage-American
essays-An ill-boding failure-Further extracts from Diary-Close of 1825,    230
CHAPTER XIV.
Letter to Alexander I. Everett —Extracts from Diary-A translation of Navarrete suggested to him  by Mr. Everett-Letter thereupon —Murray's entanglement-Letter to Leslie-Leslie's reply-Arrival at Madrid-The American Consul,
0. Rich-Determines upon a regular Life of Columbus-Literary activity-Diverted from Columbus to Conquest of Granada-Lieutenant Alexander Slidell-Close
of 1826,.                                                                    245
CHAPTER XV.
Passages from letters to Pierre Munro Irving-Letter to Brevoort-Allusion to
Cooper, Halleck, Bryant, Paulding-Letter to Murray, offering Columbus-Extracts from Diary-Longfellow-Arrangement with Murray for Columbus-Wilkie
-Literary projects-Close of the year 1827,.....255
CHAPTER XVI.
Letter to Prince Dolgorouki-Enters more into society at Madrid-Gay assemblages-Tableaux-Wilkie-lis.difficulty in getting admitted to a sight of Flemish
paintings-The Author in the library of the Jesuits' College-Note to Dolgorouki
-Publication of Columbus by Murray in London, by the Carvills in New YorkArrangement with Carey, Lea & Carey, of Philadelphia, for the publication of the
four previous works of the Author for a term of years-Letter to Brevoort-Departure from Madrid on a tour through the southern parts of Spain-Letter to
Mademoiselle Bolviller-Description of the journey fiom Cordova  to  GranadaAdmiration of the Moors-The Alhambra-A despatch from the Court of LionsQuest for the portal by which Boabdil sallied forth-The poor devil guide,    272




CONTENTS.                                    9
CHAPTER XVII.
Letter to Prince Dolgorouki from Malaga-Description of journey from Granada to Malaga-Admiration of Wilkie-Living tableaux-Letter to Mademoiselle
Bolviller-Last look of Granada-Joined by a suspicious character on the journey
-Groundless mlisgivings-The Aipujarras-Repasts in brigand style-GesslerStoffregaen-Letter to Alexander II. Everett-Description of journey from Malaga
to Seville-Gibraltar-Cadiz-Arrival at Seville-Meets with Wilkie-Going to
work on the Conquest of Granada,........      293
CHAPTER XVIII.
Extracts from Diary-Wilkie and the painting of St. Thomas-Letter to Alexander II. Everett-Quarters at Mrs. Stalker's-Letter to Alexander II. Everett,
after receiving his opinion of Columbus-Letter to Prince Dolgorouki-Character
of the Andalusians-The churches rich in paintings-Letter to Mademoiselle Bolviller-The accumulating debt of correspondence-Bull fights, his notion of-Seville, a residence for a court-San Juan de Alfarache-Relics of Moorihft labor and
Moorish taste,.....                                       311
CHAPTER XIX.
Removes to a cottage in the vicinity of Seville-Letter to Alexander H. Everett
-Letter to Mademoiselle Bolviller-The quiet and comfort of his new quartersThe cathedral of Seville-Letter to Prince Dolgoroukii-Impressions of Spanish
beauty-Advice-WiVlkie-Letter to Alexander I. Everett respecting ColumbusLetter to Peter Irving —Conquest of Granada-Arrangement with Carey-Journey
to Palos-Letter to Alexander IH. Everett, in reply to one announcing the King's
permission to him to inspect the archives of the Indias, and giving him an extract
from his critique on Columbus,.....                                      325
CHAPTER XX.
Change of quarters to Port St. Mary-Extracts from letter to Peter —Transmits
sample of Conquest of Granada to London-Sends off corrected editions of Columbus to England and America-Literary plans-Longing to return to AmericaExtracts from  Diary-Removal from the Cerillo to the Caracol-Busy on Vasco
Nufiez-Extract from a letter to Prince Dolgorouki-Letter to Ebenezer IrvingSends MSS. of the Conquest of Granada-Murray's ofler to him to conduct a magazine, and to write for the Quarterly-Repugnance to the proposal-Letter to
Alexander H. Everett, noticing Murray's offer-Conquest of Granada as an historical production —Extract of letter to Prince Dolgorouki on the subject,.   340
VOL. II.-I*




10                               CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXI.
The Author returns to Seville to make researches in libraries-Hears of a
threatened abridgment of Columbus-Resolves upon an epitome himself-A rapid
operation-Letter to Peter on the subject-Letter to Alexander II. Everett, respect
ing some points in the history of Columbus-His impression of the abridgment as
a literary composition-Abridgment given gratuitously to Murray-Sends copy to
America-Bargain with the Carvills for second edition of Columbus and the
Abridgment-Receives tidings of the death of Iall-Letter to a relative on the
subject-Passage respecting him from a letter to 13revoort-Anecdote of invocation
-Lockhart and Coleridge's opinions of Conquest of Granada-Bargain with Murray for it-Letter to Peter on the subject —Meditates article for a Christmas work
of Allan Cunningham-Busy on Don Roderick-Close of 1828,..                350
CHAPTER XXII.
Still at Seville-Literary plans and pursuits-Letter to Peter-Letter to Prince
Dolgorouki-Receives diploma of the Royal Academy of H-istory-Letter to Peter
-The Bolivar shares, and what became of them-Letter to Alexander IH. Everett
-The Presidential election-IIis impressions of Andrew Jackson —Reason for
adopting a nom d(e guerre for the Conquest of Granada-Extracts from  DiaryLetter to Peter-Longing desire to return to America-ULnpublished chronicles-Letters to Peter-Publication of Chronicles of Granada-Letter to Alexander IH.
Everett-Letter to Peter-About to leave Seville for Granada,...   364
CHAPTER XXIII.
SOJOURN IN TIIE ALIAMBRA.
The Governor's quarters-An unexpected visitor-Passages of letters-The
Conquest of Granada published in London-Finishes the Legends of the Conquest
of Spain-Letters to Peter on the subject-Letter to Dolgorouki-Duke de GorExtracts from letters to Ebenezer and Peter — Hears of his appointment as Secretary of Legation to London-Letter thereupon to Mr. Wetherell at Seville-Indifference to official honor-Letter to Louis McLane-To Mr. Everett-His plan of
return broken up-Letter to Peter —Reply to the objection that the appointment
was below his talents and position-A travelling companion turns up, with whom
he proposes to eave Granada,..                                              381
CHAPTER XXIV.
Departure from Granada-Last look of the Alliambra-Journey in a tartanaUJnexpected civility of the Duke de Gor-Robber mementoes-Spanish travelling




CONTENTS.                                   1
-Mournful fate of his travelling companion-First impressions of diplomatic life
at London-Bargain in America for Moore's Life of Byron-Two letters from
Moore on the subject-Newton-William E. West-Determines to eschew literary
drudgery, and give diplomatic life a trial-Resolves upon a Life of Washington, 407
CHAPTER XXV.
Letter to Gouverneur Kemble-Award of a gold medal by the Royal Society of
Literature-The Oxford honor-Sketch of William IV.-Letter to Peter IrvingArticle in the London Quarterly-Letter to Louis McLane from Paris after the
elevation of Louis Philippe-Extract from a letter to the same-Talleyrand-Literary concerns-Brevoort-Dolgorouki-Peter Powell-John Randolph-The Voyages of the Companions of Columbus in the press-Interruptions of his official
situation-Distractions of London life-The King and the mission-NewtonLeslie —Kenney-Payne-Receives notes from Murray for the Voyages,.   426
CHAPTER XXVI.
Visits Birminghamn-Verplancik-Paulding —Slidel's Year in Spain, and the
review in the London Quarterly-Bargain with Carey & Lea for the Voyages of
Columbus-Letter to Brevoort-A change in the embassy-The Author chargeLetter to Louis McLane-Arrival of Mr. Van Buren, the new Minister-Letter to
Louis McLane-Relieved from legation-Last meeting with Sir Walter Scott-Nevw
ton's second likeness-Letter to Mrs. Paris-Barlborough I-Iall-Hardwicke Castle
-Newstead Abbey-Derangement of literary plans-Reform and Cholera,    448
CHAPTER XXVII.
Letter from  Newstead Abbey-Journeyings with Mr. Van Buren-Letter to
Pierre Paris Irving-Arrangements for the publication of the Alhambra-Letter
from William  C. Bryant, transmitting volume of his poems for English publica.
tion-Letter from Gulian C. Verplanck-Dedicatory epistle to Samuel RogersRejection of Mr. Van Buren as Minister-Letter to Peter Irving-Mills-Mathews
-Leslie-Peter Powell-Bargain with Colburn & Bentley for the Alhambrla-Embarkation-Lands at New York-Reception-Public Dinner-Speech,.   465








fiFE AND iLETI7RS
OF
WASHIINGTO   IRVING.
CHAPTER I.
LETTER TO WILLIAM IRVING-A STEAMBOAT ENTERPRISE-EMBARKS THE VALUE
OF HIS LITERARY PROPERTY IN IT-HOW WILLIAM AND JOHN REGARDED
THE PROJECT-LODGINGS IN PARIS-GROWING POPULARITY OF THE SKETCHBOOK IN ENGLAND-ITS PARENTAGE ASCRIBED TO SCOTT-CORRESPONDENCE
ON THE SUBJECT-CHRISTMAS INVITATION —MURRAY AUTHORIZES DRAFT OF
ONE HUNDRED GUINEAS FOR SKETCH-BOOK, IN ADDITION TO THE TERMS
AGREED UPON, AND PUBLISHES KNICKERBOCKER-LETTER TO LESLIE —IS
DESIGNS FOR KNICKERBOCKER-HIS MAY-DAY-HIS LIKENESS OF GEOFFREYPETER POWELL S BURLESQUE ACCOUNT OF ITS COSTUME-THE AUTHOR'S SENSITIVE COMMENT, AND LESLIE'S REPLY-SUBJECTS CHOSEN BY LESLIE FOR
KNICKERBOCKER-THE AUTHOR'S OPINION OF THEM-INCREASING REPUTATION
IN ENGLAND.
T HE  two brothers left London for Paris on the 17th
of August, taking  Havre in  their way.   Here a
prospect seemed  to  open  of starting  Peter in  a  safe
enterprise, as Washington  thought, and  the following
letter to William, the last I have found  addressed to
that brother, will show  with  what ready  zeal he embarked in it. I do not hesitate to give this letter, be



14                  LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1820.
cause it serves to illustrate one of the most beautiful
traits in his character-his fidelity to the fraternal relation.'" Brotherhood,' is his language to me, in a
letter many years later, " is a holy alliance made by
God  and  imprinted  in  our hearts, and  we should
adhere to it with religious faith.  The more kindly
and scrupulously we observe its dictates, the happier
for us."  His whole life was an exemplification of this
sentiment.
I ought to have mentioned before, that Peter and
he had occupied the same lodgings in London for about
a year, during which this brother gave anonymously
to the world a Venetian tale, taken from  the French,
entitled Giovanni Sbogarro, which he hac written at
Birmingham.  It was published  in  London  and in
New York, but belonging as it did to a school of fiction that was passing away under the brilliant advent
of Scott, its pecuniary success was not very encouraging.
[To William Irving.
PARTS, Sept. 22, 1S20.
MY DEAR BROTHER:
I have just drawn two sets of Exchange on you, one at 60
and another at 90 days for $1,000 each.  I presume Peter has
written at large about the project to promote which these bills
are drawn.  I will, however, give a few particulars.  On our
way from England here we stopped at Havre, where we unexpectedly found Mr. Edward Church, who had just put a
steamboat on the Seine, to run between Havre and Rouen. It
had made but one tripl  but the prospects were so favorable




JET. 37.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                      15
that Mr. Beasley, our consul, who is well acquainted with the
river and its localities, had entered warmly into the enterprise.
WVe took passage in the steamboat for Rouen, and were struck
with the populousness of the banks of the river, the quantity
of traffic carried on upon its waters, and the magnificence of the
scenery.  It appeared to be one of the most advantageous
places possible for steam  navigation, both as to procuring
freight and passengers; and we both at the same time conceived the idea that a share in a new enterprise of the kind
would be a most promising mode of turning a small amount of
money and some activity of talent and exertion to large account.  It was not like a mere random  experiment, for Mr.
Church, the conductor of the enterprise, had already proved his
capacity by his very successful attempts on the Garonne.  The
circumstance, too, of the parties owning the boat being such
intimate friends was greatly in favor of a participation in the
concern.  After our arrival in Paris, we talked the matter over
witl one another and with Mr. Church, and Peter wrote to
Beasley.  He has since been at Rouen and is at present at
Havre, where, after making minute examinations, all which
tend to confirm us more and more in our anticipations, he has
made arrangements for taking a share in the general concern
(which will include two other boats about to be built) to the
amount of ten thousand dollars.  I have agreed to embark onehalf of the amount, ($5,000,) which I trust is not more than
the value of my literary property in the hands of E. I., and
shall draw on you to that amount.  As it will no doubt be in
advance of the proceeds of my writings, you must avail yourself of them as they come in; or, if it is necessary to your convenience, you may dispose of the'copyrights.
I am induced to take this share in the enterprise, not from




16                  LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1820.
a desire of making money for myself, but to enable Peter to
lay hold of what I consider the best, and indeed what is the
only chance for getting into fortune's way again, that has presented since our disasters. It will once more give him employment, and employment to which he is particularly adapted by
the turn of his mind and his personal activity; and I think it
will pay him largely for his trouble. I shall not enter any
further into the schelme myseif, nor shall I take any active part.
The part we take will be entirely in his name.  I shall turn
my attention entirely to literary pursuits; and I think I shall
pursue them with more cheerfulness when I see prosperity once
more dawning around us.
Peter, who had the most confident anticipations
that the enterprise would prove very lucrative when it
got into  firther operation, had just written  to his
brothers William    and John, requesting that one or
both of them, as they found convenient, should advance him a loan of five thousand dollars, (his proportion,) and either send it to him, or authorize him  to
draw for the amount.  It is in reference to this application that Washington adds: " I trust you will all
exert yourselves to launch him fairly in this enterprise,
which he seems to look upon as his last cast."
The brothers, however, to whom  he made the appeal, were very far fromi seeing the matter in the same
favorable light. They were annoyed at their remaining
abroad, and recoiled from  the idea of launching them
in  an  adventure which threatened to prolong their
stay, without, as they thought, any prospect of advan



ET. 87.]       OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                17
tage.  With every disposition to promote their true
interests, therefore, but wishing to frustrate the whole
scheme as far as they were concerned, they refused to
furnish the capital required.  John wrote for further
explanations to Peter and then declined, while Willianm, whose health was failing and whose life was soon
to close, felt himself compelled to withhold acceptance
from the drafts of Washington, that he might not facilitate the fulfilment of a purpose which, in his foreboding spirit, might only lead anew to sordid entanglement, without benefiting either him  or Peter.  " They
have acted as they thought for my interest," wrote
Washington to Brevoort, G" and were no doubt persuaded that by refusing my drafts they would prevent
my engaging in what they thought an injudicious enterprise.'  It would have been well if it could have
had that effect, but unfortunately for Washington he
had already committed himself. The drafts were for
an interest actually purchased in the concern, and he
was obliged, in consequence, to have recourse to other
means for raising the necessary advance.
Alluding to the well-intended refusal'of his brothers
to honor his drafts, he writes to Brevoort: "I am confident they do it out of a zeal for my interest, but a
man may be killed even by kindness."
The result of the enterprise vindicated the brotherly
anxiety of William and John in shrinking back from
aiding him to embark in it.  Meanwhile, as Peter had
failed of a share of the property, an agency was opened
VOL. II.-(2)




18                   LIFE AND LETTERS                   [1820.
to him in the management of the concern, while Washington, after the money he had embarked in it, considered himself, as he expresses it, as pretty much in the
situation  in which  he was before he published the
Sketch Book.
In explanation of the motive by which he was actuated in engaging in the concern, and adverting to a
pecuniary sum  remitted from  America, the proceeds
of some literary property, he writes:
If Peter would have accepted the money and lived on it,
until something turned up; if lie would have shared my morsel withl me as I made it, it was at his service.  I have repeatedly told him so.  I have urged it upon him in a variety
of ways.  I have endeavored to foist a loan of money on him,
but it has been all in vain.  He has a tenacious, and, as I
think, a false and squeamish delicacy on that head; and will not
take a farthing from me.  Were I in his situation and he had
the fullest purse, I would share it without hesitation.  I would
think I (lid not do him justice in declining to share his better
luck.  I have therefore done the best I could to serve him;
and if the steamboat business fails and all that I advance is lost,
my only regret will be on his account.
Mr.. Irving took lodgings at Paris at No. 4 Rue
Mont Thabor, in the vicinity of the Tuilleries; but he
had become so unsettled in mind by shifting his quarters to new  scenes, and his thoughts had becomn  so
occupied by the steamboat scheme then opening, that
it was some time before le was able to resume his pen.




~T. 37.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING                    19
I have been about a month in Paris, [he writes to'William
in the letter of September 22d, already quoted in part,] and
begin to feel a little more at home.  Mr. Gallatin * has been
extremely attentive to me.  I have dined with him repeatedly.
Either Paris or myself has changed very much since I was here
before.  It is'by no means so gay as formerly; that is to say,
the populace have a more grave and triste appearance.  You
see but little of the sprightliness and gaiety of manner for
which the French are proverbial.  However, as I have been
here but a little time I will not begin to give opinions; and as
I wish my letter to go safe, I will not interlard it with any
speculations on national character or concerns.
Mieanwhile, the Sketch Book was making a fame
for him  in England.  The Edinburgh Review, in an
article written by Jeffrey, contained a handsome tribute
to his talents, and perhaps not the least flattering circumstance connected with its publication in the eyes
of Mr. Irving, was a rumor which ascribed its parentage to Sir Walter Scott.
This fact was brought to his knowledge in a most
gratifying manner in a letter from  Mr. Richard Rush,
our minister at the court of St James, transmitting one
from  the accomplished Lady Lyttleton, the daughter
of Earl Spencer, whose high character and attainments
caused her afterwards to be chosen to superintend the
early education of the children of Queen Victoria.  As
it forms a curious and interesting anecdote, I give the
* Albert Gallatin, the American Minister.




20                   LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1820.
correspondence; a portion of it being from copies retained by Mr. Irving.
[Frlom  the Hon. Richard Rush to Wash. Irving.]
LONDON, Oct. 20, 1820.
11 Blenheim Street.
MY DEAR SIR:
I value the enclosed letter very highly, and would not trust
it out of my own hands but to pass it to yours, and almost
tremble at risking it to Paris.  Pray, therefore, do not fail to
return it, and I must say the sooner the better, as I shall wait
impatiently for your answer before returning a final one to my
fair correspondent.
She is Lady Lyttleton, the daughter of Earl Spencer, and
is among the most accomplished and lovely women of England;
worthy, as I think, of another monody from Hayley, should
fate ever snatch her from her almost equally estimable husband.
If you do not write to me soon all that you have to say upon
her letter, I shall certainly give her to understand, and perhaps
under my official seal, that you are the author of Waverley, Rob
Roy, and some two or three more of the Shakspearean novels;
for as Sir Waltei Scott is to have the credit of the Sketch
Book, I can see no good reason why a portion of his laurels
should not be transferred to you by way of indemnification.
[From  Lady Lyttleton to Mr. Rush.]
DEAR SIR:
I hope your Excellency will not think that I am presuming
too far upon your goodness in taking the liberty of making an
inquiry which relates to a subject of some interest, I think to
yourself as well as to me. A report has lately prevailed in the
literary world, I do not know exactly upon what grounds, that




EiT. 37.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                     21
the Sketch Book, which you first procured us the very great
pleasure of reading, was written, not as it professes to be, by a
countryman of yours, but by Sir Walter Scott, whose very
numerous disguises and whose well-known fondness for literary
masquerading seem to have gained him the advantage of being
suspected as the author of every distinguished work that is published. It appears to me that the merits of the Sketch Book
are so very unlike those of Scott, and that the style and nature
of the work are so new and peculiar, that it puts me out of all
patience to hear the surmise, and I could not rest till I had
applied to your Excellency for some proof of its falsehood.  I
am told that nobody has yet actually seen a copy of the book
printed in America; that Sir Walter Scott, a great friend, as
he calls himself, of the pretended author, inadvertently asserted
one day that Mr. Washington Irving had resided in London
all the time he was in England; he could not, therefore, it was
inferred, have written the admirably just descriptions of English
rural life; and upon my appearing obstinately incredulous, I
was assured that if Sir Walter Scott did not write the whole,
lie at least revised the language, and had all the merit of the
style.  Let me entreat your Excellency to send me a triumphant proof that all this is groundless, and that the very prettiest and'most amiable book we have read for a long time has
not the defect of being a trick upon readers.  *  *  *
[From  Washington Irving to MIr. Rush.]
PAmIs, Oct. 28, 1820.
4 Rule Mont Thabor.
MY DEAR SIR:
I feel very much obliged by your letter of the 20th, and am
highly flattered by the letter of Lady Lyttleton, which you
were so good as to enclose, and which I herewith return.  It




22                    LIFE AND LETTERS                      [1820.
is indeed delightful to receive applause from  such a quarter.
As her ladyship seems desirous of full and explicit information
as to the authorship of the Sketch Book, you may assure her
that it was entirely written by myself; that the revisions and
corrections were. my own, and that I have had no literary assistance either in the beginning or the finishing of it.  I speak
fully to this point, not from  any anxiety of authorship, but
because the doubts which her ladyship has heard on the subject
seem to have arisen from the old notion that it is impossible for
an American to write decent English.  If I have indeed been
fortunate enough to do any thing, however trifling, to stagger
this prejudice, I am  too good a patriot to give up even the
little ground I have gained.  As to the article on Rural Life
in England, which appears to have pleased her ladyship, it may
give it some additional interest in her eyes to know that though
the result of general impressions received in various excursions
about the country, yet it was sketched in the vicinity of Hagley   just after I had been rambling about its grounds, and
whilst its beautiful scenery, with that of the neighborhood,
were fresh in my recollection.
I cannot help smiling at the idea that any thing I have
written should be deemed worthy of being attributed to Sir
W7alter Scott, and that I should be called upon to vindicate
my weak pen from the honor of such a parentage.  He could
tenant half a hundred scribblers like myself on the mere skirts
of his literary reputation.  He never saw my writings until in
print; but though he has not assisted me with his pen, yet the
interest which he took in my success; the praises which he
* The seat of Lord Lyttleton, where the old customs were kept up, as
related by Geoffrey Crayon in his Christmas Eve and Christmas Dinner




JET. 37.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  23
bestowed on some of the first American numbers forwarded to
him; the encouragement he gave to me to go on and do more,
and the countenance he gave to the first volume when repubhlished in England have, perhaps, been more effectually serviceable than.if he had revised and corrected my work page by
page.  He has always been to me a frank, generous, warmhearted friend, and it is one of my greatest gratifications to be
able to call" him such.  Indeed, it is the delight of his noble
and liberal nature to do good and to dispense happiness; those
who only know him through his writings know not a tithe of
his excellence."
Present my sincere remembrances to Mrs. Rush, and believe me, dear sir,    With very great respect,
Yours faithfully,    WVASHINGTON IRVING.
The information contained in this letter, or perhaps
the letter itself, was communicated by Mr. Rush to
Lady Lyttleton, and was succeeded by a message from
Lord and  Lady Spencer, her parents, expressing  an
earnest desire to become acquainted with the author of
the Sketch Book, and inviting him  to spend the approaching Christmas at their place. The invitation was
conveyed through Mlr. Rush, in a note from IMr. Lyttleton.  The following is Mr. Irving's reply, which I give
from  a copy preserved among his papers.
[To the Hon. Richaid RZush.]
PARIS, Dec. 6, 1820.
MY DEAR SIR:
I feel very much indebted to you for your letter of the
27th, and hardly know how to express myself as to the very
* From a draft of Mr. Irving's reply.




24                  LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1820.
flattering communication from Mr. Lyttleton.  It is enough to
excite the vanity of a soberer man than myself. Nothing
would give me greater gratification than to avail myself of the
hospitable invitation of Lord and Lady Spencer, but at present
it is out of my power to leave Paris, and would be deranging
all my plans to return immediately to England.  Will you be
kind enough to convey to Mr. Lyttleton my sincere acknowledgments of his politeness, and also of the honor done me by
Lord and Lady Spencer; but above all, my heartfelt sense of
the interest evinced in my behalf by Lady Lyttleton, which I
frankly declare is one of the most gratifying circumstances that
have befallen me in the whole course of my literary errantry.
Excuse all this trouble which circumstances oblige me to
give your Excellency, and believe me, with my best remembrances to Mrs. Rush,      Yours very faithfully,
WASHINGTON IRVING.
At a later period he accepted an invitation to Winbledon, one of the noble country seats of Earl Spencer,
about twelve miles from  London, and where he first
met the poet Rogers.
Some weeks prior to the date of this letter, (October
26,) Mr. Murray informed the author that his volumes
had succeeded so much beyond his mercantile estimate,
that he begged he would do him  the favor to draw on
him at sixty-five days for one hundred guineas, in addition to the terms agreed upon.
He had also been encouraged to publish the History of lNew York.
I did not know you [he writes] as I ought and might have
known you until I read Knickerbocker, of which I am equally




ET. 7.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  25
happy and proud to have been, though tardily, the publisher.
After all, it is at present, and only at present I trust, your opus
magnum; it is the Don Quixote or Hudibras'of your country,
and connected with your age at the time it was written, displays most certain marks of genius.  It is very generally liked
here; and if so, how much more it must be felt, and therefore
much more enjoyed by your own countrymen.  I am quite delighted with the novelty of character and scenery, which you
have so admirably dramatized, and so vividly painted.  I have
printed it in one octavo volume to range with the Sketch
Book; but I think this is not the form most appropriate to it,
and I now propose to reprint it in four or five small volumes
like Lord Byron's works, and denominated foolscap octavo.
In the same letter, Mr. Murray informs him that he
had been very much struck with the exquisite humor
and correct taste of Leslie's first design, and had engaged him to look over the volume and see if he could
make eight or twelve designs equally happy with the
first.  I-e also urges him no longer to conceal his name
from  the world, but to accept openly the wreath the
public had in store for him, give his name to the works,
and write a simple preface announcing it.
At this time  IMurray had already reprinted the
second volume of the Sketch Book, and was preparing
a new  and uniform  edition  of both  volumes in  a
smaller size.
In another part of his letter he says    By the way,
Lord Byron says in his pithy manner, in a letter reVOL. TI. -2




Q26                   LIFE AND LETTERS                           11820.
ceived to-day, of date Oct. 8,9  Crayon is [very] good,'
interlined as I have written it.`
It is very evident, if Mr. Murray had placed too low
an estimate upon Mr. Irving at first, lie was fully alive
to his merits now.  " I am  convinced," lie says, 6" I did
not half knovw  yon, and. esteenming you  highly as I did,
certainly  my  esteem  is doubled  by my better knowledge of you."   It was something  of a triumphl   to receive such  a letter from  the bookseller who had first
declined being his publisher.
On the receipt of this letter he writes to Leslie, who
had told him  of the progress he was lmaking in his pictu re of thle May-day
I have just received a very long and friendly letter from
AMr. Murray, who in fact has overwhelmed me with eulogiums.
It appears that my writings are selling well, anid he is multiply-: In a manuscript account of a visit to Byron at Ravenna in June,
1821, now before me, by a young American, whom Byron describes as
"intelligent, very handsome," " a little romantic," the poet, after a high
encomium  upon the Knickerbocker history, thus breaks off about the
Sketch Book: " His Crayon-I know it by heart, at least there is not a
passage that I cannot refer to immediately."
In alluding to this American visitor, 1Mr. Coolidge of Boston, Byron
says in a letter to Moore: " I talked with him  much of Irving, whose
writings are my delight.  But I suspect that he did not take quite so much
to me, from his'having expected to meet a misanthropical gentleman, in
wolf-skin breeches, and answering in fierce monosyllables, instead of a
man of this world.  I can never get people to understand that poetry is
the expression of excited passion, and that there is no such thing as a life
of passion any more than a continuous earthquake, or an eternal fever."




AET. 37.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVIN.                         27
ing editions.  I am very glad to find that lie has made your
acquaintance, and still more that lie has taken a great liking
to you.  He speaks of you in the most gratifying terms.  He
has it in his power to be of service to you, and I trust he will
be.  He tells me le has requested you to look over Knickerbocker for subjects for eight or ten sketches, and the Sketch
Book for a couple, and he wishes me to assist you with my
opinion on the subject.  I will look over the books and write
to you in a day or two.  Murray is going to make me so fine
in print that I shall hardly know myself.  Could not Allston's
design be reduced without losing the characteristic humor of
it?  I am delighted to think that your labors are to be thus
interwoven with mine, so that we shall have a kind of joint
interest and pride in every volume.
My dear boy, it is a grievous thing to be separated from
you, and I feel it more and more.  I wish to heaven this world
were not so wide, and that we could manage to keep more togetler in it; this continual separating from those we like is one
of the curses of an unsettled life, and with all my vagrant habits
I cannot get accustomed to it.
I am glad to hear that you are getting on witl your piCture, and tliat you are more and more pleased witlh it. Depend
upon it, it is one of those pictures tliat will do you very essential service.  It will give you a standing wit-h men whose opinions have great weight in society-men curious in literature
arnd in antiquities.  The picture will please them, as showing not
merely technical skill and the ordinary eye for the picturesque,
but as displaying research, mind, and strong literary feeling.
It is a highly classical English subject.  I hope you will follow
it up by something in the same line; the researches you have
made for the picture will make you feel more at home in




28                  LIFE AND LETTERS                   [1820.
another.  I feel a continual want to be with you and Newton,
to see how you both get on., 4 "- Mr. Tappan, who bears this letter, told me that
it was the wish of Fairman and yourself that an engraving
should be made from  the likeness you have of me.  It is a
matter I do not feel so much objection to as I did formerly,
having been so much upon the town lately as to have lost much
of my modesty. And as I understand that there has been some
spurious print of my phiz in America, I do not care if another
is made to push it out of sight.  You will only be careful to
finish the picture so as not to give it too fixed and precise a
fashion of dress.  I preferred the costume of Newton's likeness
of me, which was trimmed with fur.  These modern dresses
are apt to give a paltry, commonplace air.
This caution to Leslie about the costume proved
the occasion of a piece of waggery on the part of a
facetious friend, Peter Powell, one of his little circle of
intimates in London, consisting of Leslie, Newton, the
" Childe,' as he was nicknamed, and Willis, an Irish
landscape painter, more frequently spoken of in  his
letters as Father Luke.  In writing to him, Powell informed himl that he understood the world was soon to
be gratified by an engraving of his physiognomy, to
grace the next edition of his works.  " Leslie's picture
is very much like you," he writes, " but I think plain,
unsophisticated people will be monstrously puzzled to
know why you should be drawn in the habiliments of
a Venetian n lobleman of the sixteenth century, though
as far as effect goes it is pict~uresque enoughll.




JET. 37.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                    29
This supposed change in Leslie's portrait of him
called out the following sensitive conmment. in a letter
to the artist, of Dec. 19.
I received a letter from  Peter Powell, in which he speaks
of my portrait being in the engraver's hands, and that it is
painted in the old Venetian costume.  I hope you have not
misunderstooc my meaning when I spoke about the costume in
which I should like to be painted. I believe I spoke something
about the costume of Newton's portrait.  I meant Newton's
portrait of me, not of hIz.self.  If you recollect, he painted me
as if in some kind of an overcoat, with a fur cape; a dress that
had nothing in it remarkable, but which merely avoided any
present fashion that might in a few years appear stupid.  The
Venetian dress which Newton painted himself in would have a
fantastic appearance, and savor of affectation.  If it is not too
late, I should like to have the thing altered.  Let the costume
be simple and picturesque, but such a one as a gentleman might
be supposed to wear occasionally at the present day.  I only
wanted you to avoid the edges, and corners, and angles with
which a modern coat is so oddly and formally clipped out at
the present day.'I received yesterday yours of the 19th,"
writes Leslie in reply, " and hasten to relieve your mind from
any apprehensions you may entertain with regard to the costume of your portrait, which is still in my room exactly in the
state in which you last saw it.  I shall finish it in a day or two
strictly according to your wishes.  The Venetian dress was
only a phantom of Peter Powell's imagination, conjured up to
disturb your evening dreams.
The whimsical personage who  had  thus amused
himself at the expense of the author, I have heard Mlr.




30                  LIFE AND LETTERS                   [1820.
Irving characterize as a fine, honorable little fellow,
with a fund of humor and a special gift for mimicry.
One of his performances was a burlesque of the opera of
Moses in Egypt; another, an Oratorio in which he began by handing in his imaginary female singers, and
Leslie hints at a third, in an allusion to his " gallanting
that imaginary flock of geese."' It was a great treat to
his friends to witness these comic exhibitions, but in all
iis travesties, said Mir. Irving, in attempting an exemplification of one of them, there was nothing overdone.
Hle mlade his accuaintance when preparing the first
number of the Sketch Book, and introduced him  afterwards to Leslie and Newton, with the first of whom he
became a great crony.
November 30, 1820, he writes to Leslie:
I hear that you are getting on with the sketches for Knickerbocker, and that you have executed one on the same sublject
Allston once chose, viz., " Peter Stuyvesant rebuking the cobbler.'  I wish you would drop me a line and let me know
what subjects you execute, and how you and Murray make out
together.  I hear that you have taken the " Childe" to Murray's; you have only to make him acquainted witlh Willis and
Peter Powell, and he will then be able to make one at your
tea-kettle debauches.
" The Childe 9 had just written to him  that Willis
had sent them home at four in the morning,' reeling
with Bohea.'5
The letter proceeds:
I have just made a brief but very pleasant excursion into




TE'. S7.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                    31
Lower Normandy in company with Mr. Ritchie.  I must refer
vou to a letter scribbled to Peter Powell for a full and faithful
narrative of this tour.
I have not this letter, but some pencil memoranda
of the tour show that he started on the 8th November,
and that his travels extended to Honfleur, at the mouth
of the Seine, tile scene of his story of Annette Delarbre
in Bracebridge Hall.
In his answer, dated December 3, Leslie says:
The subjects I have chosen are a Dutch fireside, with an
old negro telling stories to the children; William  the Testy
suspending a vagrant by the heels on his patent gallows;
Peter Stuyvesant confuting the cobbler; and Anthony Van
Corlear taking leave of the young vrows.  All of them I have
finished except the last, and Mr. Murray appears to be highly
pleased with them.
He is delighted with Allston's picture of " Wouter Van
Twiller," which will be engraved with the rest.  He talks a
great deal about you, whenever I see him, in terms of the
highest praise and friendship.  The "Sketch Book " is entirely
out of print.
I like all the suljects that you have chosen for the designs,
[writes the author in reply,] except that of William the Testy
suspending the vagabond by the breeches.  The circumstance
is not of sufficient point or character in the history to be illustrated.
Leslie, in explanation, assigns as a reason for the
selection, that Mlaurray wished one design at least from
the reign of each governor, and he was puzzled in find



32                LIFE AND LETTERS                 [18s0.
ing one that could be brought within a small compass
from that part of the book.  "I was somewhat fearful
of it myself," he adds, "but Newton thinks you would
like it."
Meanwhile the new candidate for fame was steadily
gaining in reputation in England.' I think you are
a most fortunate fellow  of an author,' writes Peter
Powell, Dec. 3, " in regard to your debut amongst us
in this critical age, for I have not heard of your having
so much as a nose or a member of any kind cut up by
the anatomists of literature; on the contrary, there
seems to be almost a conspiracy to hoist you over the
heads of your contemporaries." And Leslie writes, Dec.
24: "3Miller says Geoffrey Crayon is the most fashionable fellow of the day.  I am very much inclined to
think if you were here just now,' company would be
the spoil of you.'"  Then, begging to be remembered
to his brother Peter, he concludes: " All the lads join
in wishing you both a merry Christmas and happy
New Year. I intend appropriating a part of to-morrow
to reading your Christmas article.  I shall stick up
your portrait before my face, and bury myself in an
enormous elbow-chair I have got, over which' Murphy
often sheds his puppies,' relying on the book I shall
hold in my hand to act as a charm  against the seductions of the seat.  These associations are the best
means by which I can console myself for your absence."




JET. 37.]           OF WASHINGTON  IRVING.                         33
CHAPTER II.
MAKES THE ACQUAINTANCE OF TIOMAS MOORE, THE POET-VISIT TO THE PRISON
OF MARIE ANTOINETTE-LETTER TO BREVOORT-REASONS FOR REMAINING
ABROAD-MOORE-CANNING-MOORE'S HINT OF THE ORIGIN OF BRACEBRIDGE
HALL-ANOTHER GLIMPSE OF IRVING FROM MOORE-JOHN HOWARD PAYNETALMA —HIS PERFORMANCE OF HAMLET-LETTER TO LESLIE-KENNEY, AUTHOR OF RAISING THE WIND, ETC.-LUTTREL-INTRODUCED TO THE HOLLANDS
-MURRAY BEGS HIS ACCEPTANCE OF AN ADDITIONAL ONE HUNDRED POUNDS
FOR THE SKETCH BOOK-THE AUTHOR'S LETTER THEREUPON-READS MANUSCRIPT TO MOORE-BANCROFT-SETS OFF FOR ENGLAND JULY 11TH, HOPING
TO HAVE SOMETIING READY FOR THE PRESS BY AUTUMN.
IT was at the close of this year that Mr. Irving made
the  accluaintance of one of the  most brilliant and
delightful of his  contemporaries, Thomas Moore, the
Irish  poet, then  an  absentee in  Paris, on  account of
some pending  liabilities of' government against him,
arising out of the defalcation of his deputy at Bermuda,
which he was hoping to adjust.   Moore has this entry
on the subject in his diary:
December 21, 1820.-Dined  with  McKay  at  the  table
d'hdte at Meurice's for the purpose of being made known to
Mr. WTashington Irving, the author of the work which has
lately had success, the "Sketch Book"; a good-looking and
intelligent-mannered man.
VOL. IT.-2*         (3)




34                   LIFE AND LETTERS                   [1821.
McKay, who  brought the  two  autlhors together,
was an Irish gentleman who had come to the French
capital from   England  on  a mission  to  inspect the
prisons; and two days after (Dec. 23) he, Lord John
Russell, Moore, and Mr. Irving, were visiting in company the room in which the ill-fated Marie Antoinette
was confined.
I find loose among his papers this brief record of
the visit to a place seldom  open to a stranger's inspection.
I have just returned from the prison of Marie Antoinette.
Under the palace of Justice is a range of cavernous dungeons,
called the Conciergerie, the last prison in which criminals are
confined previous to execution.  We were admitted through
grated doors, and conducted along damp dark passages, lighted
in some places by dim windows, in others by lamps.  On these
passages opened the grates of several dungeons in which victims were thrown during the revolution, to           indulge in the horrible anticipation of certain death. My flesh crept on my bones
as I passed through these regions of despair, and fancied these
dens peopled with their wretched inhabitants.  I fancied their
worn and wasted faces glaring through the grates, to catch, if
possible, some ray of hope or mitigation of horror, but seeing
nothing except the sentinel pacing up and down the passage,
or perhaps some predecessor in misery, dragged along to execution.  In this were confined the victims of Robespierre, andfinally Robespierre himself.
From this corridor we were led through a small chapel into
what at present forms the sacristy, but which was once the




IET. 37.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   35
dungeoln of the unhappy Queen of France.  It is low  and
arched; the walls of prodigious thickness, lighted dimly by a
small window.  The walls have been plastered and altered,
and the whole is fitted up with an air of decency; nothing remains of the old dungeon but the pavement.  In one part is a
monument placed by Louis XVIII., and around the dungeon
are paintings illustrating some of the latest prison scenes of her
unhappy life. The place is shown where her bed stood, divided
simply by a screen from the rest of the dungeon in which a
guard of soldiers was constantly stationed; beside this dungeon is
the black hole-I can give it no better term-in which the Princess Elizabeth was thrust a few hours prior to her execution.
Never have I felt my heart melting with pity more, than in
beholding this last abode of wretchedness.  What a place for a
queen, and such a queen! one brought up so delicately, fostered, admired, adored.
The next scene in which I trace an association of
the two authors, was at Mloore's cottage in the Champs
Elysees, where iMr. Irving and Lord John Russell took
dinner with the poet on the 28th.  Moore pronounces
" the evening very agreeable," but gives no particulars,
except this mention of his new  acquaintance.   "   r.
Irving complains grievously of the last thing  Lord
Byron has sent, as unworthy of himself, and likely to
injure Mlurray's property in the former works."
The acquaintance with  Mfoore thus commenced
grew speedily into intimacy, as will be seen by the following letter to Brevoort, in answer to one urging his
return to New York.




36.              LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1821.
PAitlS, March 10, 1821.
DEAR BREVOORT:
You urge me to return to New York; and say, many ask
whether I mean to renounce my country.  For this last question I have no reply to make, and yet I will make a reply.
As far as my precarious and imperfect abilities enable me, I am
endeavoring to serve my country.  Whatever I have written
has been written with the feelings and published as the writing
of an American.  Is that renouncing my country?  How else
am I to serve my country? by coming home and begging an
office of it; which I should not have the kind of talent or the
business habits requisite to fill?  If I can do any good in this
world it is with my pen. I feel that even with that I can do
very little, but if I do that little and do it as an American, I
think my exertions ought to guarantee me from  so unkind a
question as that which you say is generally made.
As to coming home, I should at this moment be abandoning my literary plans, such as they are.  I should lose my
labor in various literary materials which I have in hand, and
to work up which I must be among the scenes where they
were conceived. I should arrive at home at a time when my
slender finances require an immediate exercise of my talents,
but should be so agitated and discomposed in my feelings by
the meetings with my friends, the revival of many distressing
circumstances and trains of thought, and should be so hurried
ly the mere attentions of society, that months would elapse
before I could take pen in hand, and then I would have to
strike out some entirely new plan and begin ab ovo.  As to
the idea you hold out of being provided for sooner or later in
our fortunate city, I can only say that I see no way in which I




ET. 37.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   37
could be provided for, not being a man of business, a mlan of
science, or, in fact, any thing but a mere belles-lettres writer.
And as to the fortunate character of our city; to me and mine
it has been a very disastrous one. I have written on this point
at some length, as I wish to have done with it.  Ay return
home must depend upon circumstances, not upon inclinations.
I have, by patient and persevering labor of my most uncertain
pen, and by catching the gleams of sunshine in my cloudy
mind, managed to open to myself an avenue to some degree of
profit and reputation. I value it the more highly because it is
entirely independent and self-created; and I must use my best
endeavors to turn it to account.  In remaining, therefore,
abroad, I do it with the idea that I can best exert my talents,
for the present, where I am; and that, I trust, will be admitted as a sufficient reply from a man who has but his talents
to feed and clothe him.
I have not been' able to call on L'Herbette; the fact is, I
am harassed by company and engagements which it is impossible to avoid, and which take up more of my time than I like
to spare; as well as dissipating my thoughts.  I shall be
obliged to quit Paris on that very account, though I intend to
see L'Herbette before I leave this.
I have become very intimate with Anacreon Moore, who
is living here with his family.  Scarce a day passes without
our seeing each other, and he has made me acquainted with
many of his friends here.  He is a charming, joyous fellow;
full of frank, generous, manly feeling.  I am happy to say he
expresses himself in the fullest and strongest manner on the
subject of his writings in America, which he pronounces the
great sin of his early life.  He is busy upon the life of Sheridan and upon a poem.  His acquaintance is one of the most




38                  LIFE AND LETTERS3                  [1821.
gratifying things I have met with ior some time; as he takes
the warm interest of an old friend in me and my concerns.
Canning is likewise here with his family, and has been very
polite in his attentions to me.  He has expressed a very flattering opinion of my writings both here and in England, and his
opinion is of great weight and value in the critical world.  I
had a very agreeable dinner at his house a few days since, at
whicli I met Moore, Sir Sidney Smith, and several other interesting characters.
6 You keep excellent company in Paris," Brevoort
answers.  " Anacreon Moore and Mr. Canning'; these
are names that set one's blood in motion."  Brevoort
would have been glad if he had enriched his letters
with more particulars of the interesting characters he
was meeting, but his friendl used jestingly to say that
he was now living by his pen, and must save up all his
anecdotes and good things for his publishers.
Nine days after the date of this letter, March 19,
MIoore furnishes this interesting glimpse of the author,
and of the origin of Bracebridge Hall, the work which
Mr. Irving was next to give to the world.
19h —Too happy to dine at home to-day.  Bessy in low
spirits at parting with our dear Anastasia, who goes to-day to
Mrs. Forster's.  Irving called near dinner-time; asked him to
stay and share our roast chicken with us, which he did.  He
has been hard at work writing lately; in the course of ten days
has written about one hundred and thirty pages of the size of
those in the " Sketcl Book;   this is amazing rapidity.  Has
followed up an idea which I suggested, and taken the charac



,ET. 3T.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   39
ters in his " Christmas Essay," Master Simon, &c., &c., for the
purpose of making a slight thread of a story on which to string
his remarks and sketches of human manner and feelings  left
us at nine.
A  week later we have from  Mioore this further
glimpse of Irving at a dance at the poet's new apartments, in celebration of the tenth anniversary of his
marriage to Bessy, for wlhom, with all his devotion to
the gay world, Mr. Irving used always to bear witness,
his affection was deep and unchanging.
26th.-Bessy busy in preparations for the dance this evening.   f Went into town too late to return to dinner,
and dined at Very's alone.  Found on my return our little
rooms laid out with great management and decorated with
quantities of flowers, which Mrs. Story had sent.  Our conmpany, Mrs. S. and her cousins, Mrs. Forster, her two daughters
and Miss Bridgman, the Villamils, Irving, Capt. Johnson,
Wilder, &c., and the Douglases.   Began with music;  Mrs.
V., Miss Drew, and Emma Forster sung.  Our dance afterwards to the pianoforte very gay, and not the less so for the
floor giving way in sundry places; a circle of chalk was drawn
round one hole, Dr. Yonge was placed sentry over another,
and whenever there was a new crack, the general laugh at the
heavy foot that produced it, caused more merriment than the
solidest floor in Paris could have given birth to.  Sandwiches,
negus, and champagne crowned the night, and we did not separate till near four in the morning.  Irving's humor began to
break out as the floor broke in, and he was much more himself
than ever I have seen him.




40                LIFE AND LETTERS               t1821.
A few loose leaves of an imperfect journal of the
author, found among his papers after his death, give
an interesting account of his first meeting with Talm.a,
the great French tragedian, in company with John
Howard Payne, the young American Roscius of former cdays. Payne was a fellow townsman of Mr. Irving, who had appeared with great eclat at the Park
Theatre in New  York in his sixteenth year, in tle
character of Young Norval.  He had outgrown all
tragic symmetry after leaving his country in 1813 to
try his success in England, and from being an actor,
had assumed at one time the management of Sadler's
Wells; had failed in this and got in debt.  He afterwards brought out Junius Brutus, a tragedy which
he had manufactured out of two or three plays. It had
a great run, and 3ir. Irving called on himr in London
to congratulate him  on his success; but alas! its success had proved his ruin.  It brought his creditors
down upon him, and he was thrown into prison. Here
lie wrote Teresa, or the Orphan of Geneva, which was
successful and extricated him.  Then he escaped to
Paris, where Mr. Irving met him.  Payne was a fluent
writer, and for a while a successful performer; but he
is most favorably known at the present day as thle
author of Home, Sweet Home, a popular song which
he'introduced in his opera of Clari, or the Maid of
Mlilan. The profits arising from  it, realized by the
manager and not by Payne, have been stated to have
amounted to two thousand guineas in two years.




.iET. 88.1        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                     41
Paris, April 25th, 1821.-Breakfasted this morning with
John Howard Payne.  He has the first floor of a small house,
in a garden No. 16 Petit rue de St. Petre, Pont aux choux.
The morning was fine and the air soft and spring-like.  His
casements were thrown open, and the breezes that blew  in
were extremely grateful.  He has a couple of canary birds,
with a little perch ornamented with moss.  He stands it in the
window, and they fly about the garden and return to their
perch for food and to rest at night.
Payne is full of dramatic projects, and some that are very
feasible.
After breakfast we strolled along the Boulevards, gossipping, staring at groups and sights and signs, and looking over
booksellers' stalls.  He proposed to me to call on Talma, who
had just returned to Paris.  He has a suite of apartments in a
hotel, No. -  rue des Petites Augustines.  He has a seat in
the country, about -  miles from  Paris, of which he is extremely fond, and is continually altering and improving, though
he can seldom get there above once a week.  He is about to
build a town residence, and at present lives in lodgings.  I got
Payne to mount before me, as I did not wish to call on Talma
so unceremoniously.  Payne found him  changing his linen.
He requested him immediately to bring me up.  On enterilng
he received me in a very friendly, frank way, and turning to
Payne, said: "   hy he is quite a young man; " it seems he
had expected to see an old one; his room was full of furniture,
and books, &c., rather confused.  I remarked a colored engraving of John Kemble.
Talma is about 5 feet 7 or 71 inches English, rather inclined
to fat, with large face and thick neck.  His eyes are blueish,
and have a peculiar cast in them at times.  He speaks English




42                    LIFE AND LETTERS                       [li21.
well, and is very fiank, animated, and natural in conversation;
a fine, hearty simplicity of manner.   Asked me if this was my
first visit to Paris; told him that I had been here once before
-about fourteen years since.  "Ah! that was il the time of
the Emperor," said lie.  He remarked that Paris was very
much changed; thinks the French character greatly changed;
more grave.  You see the young men from  the colleges, said
he; how  grave they are; they walk together, conversing incessantly on politics and other grave subjects; says, the nation
has become as grave as the English.
We spoke of the French play of ltamlet.  I asked if other
of Shakespeare's plays were adapting for the French stage.
He believed not..He thinks there is likely to be a great
change in French drama.  The public feel greater interest in
scenes that come home to common life and people in ordinary
situations, than in the distresses of heroil personages of classic
literature.  Hence they never come to the Theattre Francais
except to see a few great actors, but they crowd to the minor
theatres to see the representation of ordinary life.  He says
the revolution has made so many strong and vivid scenes of
real life pass before their eyes, that they cql no longer be
affected by mere declamation and fine language; they require
character, incident, passion, life.
Says if there should be another revolution it would be a
bloody one.  The nation (i. e. the younger part, children of
the revolution) have such a hatred of the priests and noblesse,
that they would fly upon them like sheep.  Mfentions the manner in which certain parts of plays have been applauded lately
at Rouen; one part which said,' Usurpers are not always
tyrants."  WVWhen we were coming away he followed us to the
door of his ante-chamber; in passing through the latter I saw




E'T. 38.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                       3
childrens' swords and soldiers c.ps lying on the table, and said,
your clildren, I see, have swords for playthings.  He replied
with animation, that all the amusements of the children were
military; that they would have nothing  to play with but
swords, guns, trumpets, drums, &c.
It was after this interview  that Mr. Irving  saw
Talma's performnance of Hamlet, and I find among his
papers this allusion to the tragedy and the actor.
The successful performance of a translation of Hamlet has
been an era in the French drama. It is true the play has been
sadly mutilated; it has been stripped of its most natural and
characteristic beauties, and an attempt has been made to reduce
it to the naked stateliness of one of their own dramas; but it
still retains enough of the wild magnificence of Shakespeare's
imagination to give it an individual character on the French
stage.  Though the ghost of Hamlet's father does not actually
tread the boards, yet he hovers in idea about his son, and the
powerful acting of Talma gives an idea of this portentous visitation far more awful and mysterious than could be presented by
any spectral representation.   The effect of this play on the
French audiences is astonishing.  The doors of the theatre are
besieged at an early hour on the evening of its representation;
the houses are crowded to overflowing; the audience continually passes from intervals of breathless attention to bursts of
ungovernable applause.  I have seen a lady carried fainting
from the boxes, overcome by the acting of Talma in the scene
with his mother, where he fancies he sees the spectre of his
father.




44                  LIFE AND LETTERS                 [1821.
The following letter to Leslie, dated "' Paris, 1820,"
in the published extracts from  his correspondence, by
Taylor, belongs nnmistakeably to the spring of 1821.
Newton had at this time acquired a good deal of distinction from  a picture, Le Facheux, which had got
one of the best places at the exhibition, between Wilkie
and Jackson.  It had made quite a sensation in the
papers, and had been purchased by Thomas HIope, the
author of Anastasius.  IIe could hardly have been
more fortunate in the character of the purchaser or the
gallery to which it was destined, Iope having the
finest collection in London.  G I have something of
your feeling," he writes to the author of the Sketch
Book, Feb. 10, 1821,' on occasion of this distinction,
and am terribly nervous lest I should not get as good
a subject for my next."'MY DEAR LESLIE:
I have been intending this long time past to write to you,
and a good intention of long standing is a matter to boast of in
this naughty world.  How comes on your picture? I presume
it is nearly finished.  Did you call on Sir Walter Scott while
he was in town, and ask him to look at it?  If not, you have
behaved shabbily.'.            e %
I presume the " Childe's " new-fledged reputation will introduce him into a great deal of dilettanti society, and that good
company will come nigh to be the ruin of him. I have been
sadly bothered with the same evil of late, and have had to fight
shy of invitations that would exhaust time and spirits.  The
most interesting acquaintance I have made in Paris, is Moore




ET. S8.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  45
the poet, whlo is very much to my taste.  I see him  almost
every day, and feel as if I had known him for a life-time.  ie
is a noble-hearted, manly, spirited little fellow, with a mind as
generous as his fancy is brilliant.  I hope you have better
weather in London than we have in Paris.  Such a spring 
Nothing but rain in torrents; and cold, boisterous winds.
They may say what they please of London weather; I never
passed a more dirty, rainy season in London than this last
winter has been in Paris; and then the streets are so detestable in dirty weather, that there is no walking in them.  My
only consolation at such times is the vicinity of the garden of
the Tuilleries, which is but a short distance from my lodgings;
and which I consider as a park attached to my mansion;
though I must own 1 prefer my park of St. James and Kensington Gardens; the latter particularly, as it has glorious
lawns of green grass that I can roll on; whereas in the Tuilleries there is no place to rest, except one sit on a cursed cold
stone bench, or pay two sous for a vile straw-bottomed chair.
I wish you would take pen in hand at once, and let me
know how you are getting on with your picture; what else
you are about; when you go to AVindsor; how long you stay
there; who you are to paint the pictures for; what subject you
have in view for your next painting; what Newton is doing;
what Luke is doing, and what Peter Powell is doing?  Answer these questions, and then you may add what you please.
At the date of the leaf or fragment which follows,
and which, like the note of his visit to Talma, I gleaned
from  some literary rubbish of the author, Moore had
changed his quarters for a cottage in the neighborhood
of St. Cloud; and Kenney, the delineator of " Jeremy




46                   LIFE AND LETTERS                     [1821.
Diddler," had found a nestling place in the elbow of
an old royal castle on the crest of a hill opposite.
-lfcay 16th, 18211- took an early dinner at 4 o'clock, and
rode out afterwards to see Moore.  Took a place in a cuckoo
to St. Cloud.  It was a lovely afternoon, and the walk through
the park of St. Cloud was delightful; views of the Seine, with
boats drifting down it; bridges crossing it.  Found MIoore at
his cottage in the park of Mr. Villamil's seat, La Butte; a very
pretty cottage; magnificent scenery all about it.  It stands on
the side of the hill that rises above Sevres.  To the left is St.
Cloud and its grand park.  The Seine winds at the foot of the
hill, and the great plain of Neuilly lies before you, with the
Bois de Boulogne and Paris in the distance; glorious effect of
sunset on Moore's balcony; the gilded dome of the Invalids
flaming in the sunshine.
Accompanied Mr. and Mrs. Moore, and the Villamils to
Mr. Kenney's, author of Raising the Wind, &c.  He married
the widow of Holcroft who had several children; her stock and
his own make eight children.  They have apartments in one
of the wings, or rather the offices of the old chateau of Bellevue, built by Louis XV., where he and Madame Pompadour
lived.  The old chateau is a picture of grandeur in decay; the
windows broken; the clock shattered; the court-yards grassgrown; apartments in a ruined and dilapidated state. Kenney's establishment squalid; remains of magnificent furniture;
old sofa, with griffin head arms; old stools, which had doubtless
been for the courtiers in the royal apartments.
Kenney a very worthy and a very pleasant fellow; a thin,
pale man, with a gentleness of demeanor and manner, and very
nervous.  He gave some descriptions of scenes in London with




aET. 38.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 47
admirable truth and character.  Moore told me that he was
once giving Kenney an account of his misfortunes; the heavy
blow he sustained in consequence of the default of his agent ill
Bermuda. Kenney expressed the strongest sympathy. " Gad,
Sir, its well you were a Poet; a Philosopher never would have
borne it."
June 21, we have this mention in Mfoore's diary
of a dinner at his cottage, in which Lord John Russell,
Luttrel, the author of Advice to Julia, then newly
arrived, and Irving, were his guests.  " In speaking
of my abuse of the Americans, Irving said it was unlucky that some of my best verses were upon that subject;   put them in his strongest pickle,"9 said Luttrel.
Luttrel was noted for the grace and delicacy of ]is
wit, and I have heard IMr. Irving express admiration
of an impromptu specimen which occurred about this
time in his presence.
Moore, Luttrel, and himself were walking together,
when MIoore alluded to the uncertain fate of a female
aeronaut who took her flight into the empyrean and
continued to ascend in her " airy ship," until she was
lost to view, and, added the poet, never heard of more.
"IHanded  out by Enoch and Elijah,' was Luttrel's
immediate and happy response.
In Moore's diary we have this further glimpse of
his friend at Paris.
July 2d, 1821. —Took Irving to present him to the Hollands; my lady very gracious to him.




48                  LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1821.
iMr. Irving was at this time so anxious to get on
with his literary pursuits, that he rather avoided the
gay world.
I have advances made me by society, [he writes to Brevoort not long before,] that were I a mere seeker of society,
would be invaluable; but I dread so much being put out in
my pursuits and distracted by the mere hurry of fashionable
engagements that I keep aloof and neglect opportunities which
I may perhaps at some future day look back to with regret.
About this time he received from  his London publisher the following concise authority to draw on him
for a hundred pounds, a second gratuitous contribution
for the Sketch Book, of which, writes Newton, "   urray
says its success, considering all things, is unparalleled."
LoNDON, June 29, 1821.
MY DEAR IRVING:
Draw upon me for a hundred pounds, of which I beg thy
acceptance, and pray tell me how you are and what you are
about; and above all, pardon my short letter. Believe me
ever,                     Thy faithful friend,
JOHN MURRAY.
There is a review of the Sketch Book in the Quarterly,
which you will like.
The following is the author's reply.
[To John Mlfurray.]
PARIS, July 6, 1821.
MY DEAR SIR:
I write in very great haste to acknowledge the receipt of
your letter of the 29th llt. I am extremely happy to hear




JET. 38.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                    49
that the Sketch Book has been favorably noticed in the Quarterly.  I have not seen the Review, but I doubt whether any
criticism in it can be so emphatic as that in your letter.  You
were certainly intended for a critic. I never knew any one
convey so much meaning in so concise and agreeable a manner.
In compliance with your request, I have drawn on you for an
hundred pounds in favor of Mr. Samuel Williams of London.
The supply came opportunely.  I am on the point of leaving
Paris for Bruxelles, and where I shall go from thence is at
present undetermined; but I shall write to you from the Netherlands, should I make any stop there.
I have been leading a " miscellaneous': kind of life at Paris,
if I may use a literary phrase.  I have been rather distracted
by engagements, in spite of all my efforts to keep out of society.
Anacreon Moore is living here, and has made me a gayer fellow
than I could have wished; but I found it impossible to resist
the charm of Iis society.  Paris is like an English wateringplace, with the advantage of the best kind of amusements, and
excellent society.
I have scribbled at intervals, and have a mass of writings
by me; rather desultory, as must be the case when one is so
much interrupted; but I hope, in the fulness of time, to get
them into some order.
I write in extreme haste, having to pack up and make
other preparations for departure.
With my best regards to Mrs. Murray and the rest of your
family, I am, my dear Sir,
Very faithfully yours,
WASHINGTON IRVING.
In this letter the author is " on the point of leaving
VOTL. IT.-8       (4)




50                 LIFE AND LETTERS                 [1821.
Paris for Brussels; " but a sudden change of purpose
comes over him, and he determines to start for London
at once, to be in time for the approaching coronation
of George IV.; hoping also to get something ready for
the press by autumn.  One of his last acts in Paris is
to read to Moore a portion of the manuscript of Buckthorne and his friends, originally designed for Bracebridge Hall, his next work, but forming part of the
contents of The Tales of a Traveller which succeeded
it.  He had already read a portion of it to the poet,
" sitting on the grass in the walk up the Rocher."
Jzly 9/h.-Moore has the following: Irving came to breakfast for the purpose of taking leave, (being about to set off for
England,) and of reading to me some more of his new work;
some of it much livelier than the first lie read. He has given
the description of the booksellers' dinner so exactly like what
I told him of one of the Longmans, (the carving partner, the
partner to laugh at the popular author's jokes, the twelve edition writers treated with claret, &c.,) that I very much fear my
friends in Paternoster Row will know themselves in the picture.
Subsequently, he affords the author an opportunity to
i mprove the picture by personal observation, a part of his
record of May 22, 1822, in London being: 6 Introduced
Irving to the Lonogmans, and dined with him there."
It is no disparagement of the poet, however, to say,
as has been said by a critical authority, that the picture " owed every thing to Irving's handling."
It must have been about this time, also, that MBr.




/ET. 38.]      OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                51
Irving read to our distinguished  historian, George
Bancroft, then fresh from  two years' study at G6ttingen, a portion of the work he was preparing for the
press.  " During a summer in Paris," says that gentleman in his commemorative remarks before the New
York Historical Society, " I formed with him that relation of friendly intimacy, which grew in strength to
the last. Time has in a measure effaced the relative
difference in our years but then he was almost twice as
old as I.' *   One evening, after we had been many
hours together, he took me to his room, and read to me
what he had written at one sitting.        I i  I remember
it to this day: it was his St. iarcrk's Eve, from  the
words' I am now alone in my chamber,' to the end."
The last glimpse we have in Moore's Diary, of Irving
at Paris, is the following:
July 10th. —Went in to dine at Lord Holland's. Company, Lord John, Fazakerly, Irving, Alien. *  *  Kenney
and Irving set off for England to-morrow.
The poet does not mention what I have heard Mr.
Irving speak of as an impressive recollection of the
occasion, that Talma came in after dinner, with the
news of the death of Napoleon.
The next day he set off for England, accompanied
by Kenney, who by the way, was the personage alluded to in his Life of Goldsmith, as the author whom
he had seen with his back to a tree and his foot to a
stone, trying to bother out a scene in a farce which he
could not manage to his satisfaction.




52                    LIFE AND LETTERS                       [1821.
C IAPTER III.
THE CORONATION OF GEORGE IV.-MEETING WITH SCOTT-DETAINED IN LONDON
ABOUT A PLAY OF PAYNE-DRAGGING OF THE STEAMBOAT AFFAIRS-LETTER
TO PETER THEREUPON-LITERARY CONCERNS-EXCURSION TO BIRMINGHIAM
WITH LESLIE-THE STOUT GENTLEMAN-ITS MORAL-KEPT AT BIRMINGHAM
BY ILLNESS-LETTER TO EBENEZER ABOUT LITERARY MATTERS-LETTER TO
LESLIE-THE CHILDREN-GEORGE-NEWTON'S INTRODUCTION TO LA BUTTE BY
HIIMSELF-LESLIE AND POWELL'S JOINT ACCOUNT OF THEIR HOUSEKEEPING
IN BUCKINGHAM PLACE-LETTER TO LESLIE-LETTER TO EBENEZER IRVING,
NOV. 1, AFTER TIDINGS OF A SISTER'S BEREAVEMENT-DEATH OF HIS BROTHER
WILLIAM —LETTER FROM NEWTON-MOORE.
[/[IR. IRVING  arrived  in London the day before
-   the coronation, and the next morning got a stand
on the outside of Westminster Abbey, with Newton
and Leslie, to see the procession pass.  The following
day le called on Scott, who congratulated him  in his
hearty manner on his success, and asked him  if he had
seen  the coronation.  He told  him  he had  seen  the
procession on the outside.  " Oh you should have been
inside."   " Why I only came over the day before, and
I did not know  how to manage it."' Hut man," said
Scott, "you should have told them  who you were, and
you would have got in any where."   At parting, Scott
expressed his regret that he would not probably see




lET. 38.]      OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                53
any thing more of him  in London, as he was engaged
oup to the ludb.
1Mr. Irving had not meditated any stay in London,
but was kept there some time in a fruitless attempt to
bring upon the stage a petite comedy of John Howard
Payne, entitled " The Borrower," which he had sent
him from Paris. The circumstances of Payne were such
as to call for prompt action in the matter, and as England was not open to him by reason of his debts, he had
availed himself of Mr. Irving's kindness, to send him
the manuscript.  He wrote July 14, apprising him
of its transmission, but the letter would seem not to
have taken a very direct course, and to have kept Mr.
Irving in London waiting its receipt some time after he
had hoped to have joined his sister in Birmingham.
Payne laments, in a letter of August 12, that his kind
dispositions towards him should have been the source
of any derangement of his plans.
His brother Peter writes him from Havre, August
20, a statement of the steamboat concerns, which
were rather troublesome and vexatious, and did not go
so smoothly as could be wished, and expresses an anxiety to hear what he was doing with the booksellers.
I insert some extracts from his reply, dated London,
Sept. 6, 1821.
I received your letter giving an account of the steamboat
concerns. I am sorry they are not more productive; not on
my own account, but on yours, but I hope they will grow
better and better. I do not calculate on any proceeds from




54                  LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1821.
that quarter, so that you need not feel solicitous for me; but
only manage that you may do something for yourself. * *
I have a mass of writings by me which I am endeavoring
to bring into shape for publication, but question whether I shall
get any ready in time for the fall season. I have been kept
in town by a correspondence with Payne, and an ineffectual
attempt to get a little piece of his played at one or other of the
theatres. I shall go to Birmingham in a few days and take
Leslie with me.  Had I been there, I would go off at once
with Newton for France.  I could finish my writings as well
in France as here, and there is no comparison between the
countries as a residence. London is terribly dull and monotonous after Paris.
When I have been a little while at Birmingham, unless I
am detained by literary concerns, I shall return to Paris by
the way of Havre; but if I should have a prospect of. getting
any thing ready for the press, I will do it first.
I have a variety of writings in hand, some I think superior
to what I have already published; my only anxiety is to get
them into shape and order.      *  *  *
I have fagged hard to get another work under way, as I
felt that a great deal depended upon it, both as to reputation
and profit. I feel my system a little affected now and then by
these sedentary fits to which, until two or three years past, I
have not been accustomed.  When I get my present manuscript finished and off of hands, I think I will give myself
holiday.
Mr. Irving brought with him to London the manuscript of the chief part of Bracelridge Hall, in the
rough, intending or hoping to make arrangements for




.ET. 3S.J       OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 5
its publication in the autumn.  On reading to Leslie,
Buckthorne,'  the part of his "writings in hand'
whiich lie had in view in the letter to Peter, just quoted,
as in his judgment " superior to what" he had 6 already
published," the artist suggested that he should retain
that as the groundwork of a novel, and substitute something else.   He accordingly threw it by, and replaced
it with the  Student of Salamanca; an  ill-judged
change, as he afterwards regarded it, but he was prone
to yield too readily  to the suggestions of others.
It was about the 9th- of September, that Mr. Irving
and Leslie started on the excursion to Birmingham,
of which the latter speaks in the extract given below.
Irving had been previously suggesting to Leslie for his
pencil, the subject of Shakespeare brought up for deer
stealing, having a picture in his own mind, which the
artist, after repeated efforts, could not make out.  He
caught at the idea at first, however, and was in pursuit
of materials, when they started off together, intending
to bring up at the residence of Mr. Van Wart, Irving's
brother-in-law.
In the account of the expedition which follows, Leslie, touches upon the origin of 6 The Stout Gentleman,"
the gem  of Bracebridge Hall.  I transcribe from his
Autobiography.
Towards the close of the summer of 1821, I made a delightful excursion with Washington Irving to Birmingham, and
thence into Derbyshire.  We mounted the top of one of the
Oxford coaches at three o'clock in the afternoon, intending only




56                  LIFE AND LETTERS                   [1821.
to go as far as Henley that night; but the evening was so fine,
and the fields filled with laborers gathering in the corn by the
light of a full moon, presented so animated an appearance, that
although we had not dined, we determined to proceed to Oxford, which we reached about eleven o'clock, and then sat down
to a hot supper.
The next day it rained unceasingly, and we were confined
to the inn, like the nervous traveller whom Irving has described
as spending a day in endeavoring to penetrate the mystery of
"the stout gentleman."  This wet Sunday at Oxford did in fact
suggest to him that capital story, if story it can be called.  The
next morning, as we mounted the coach, I said something about
a stout gentleman who had come from London with us the day
before, and Irving remarked that "The Stout Gentleman"
would not be a bad title for a tale; as soon as the coach
stopped, he began writing with his pencil, and went on at
every like opportunity. We visited Stratford-on-Avon, strolled
about Charlecot Park and other places in the neighborhood, and
while I was sketching, Irving, mounted on a stile or seated on
a stone, was busily engaged with "The Stout Gentleman."
He wrote with the greatest rapidity, often laughing to himself;
and from time to time reading the manuscript to me.  We
loitered some days in this classic neighborhood, visiting Warwick and Kenilworth; and by the time we arrived at Birmingham, the outline of "The Stout Gentleman" was completed.
The amusing account of "The Modern Knights Errant," he
added at Birmingham, and the inimitable picture of the innyard on a rainy day, was taken from an inn where we were
afterwards quartered at Derby.
If I may venture to add any thing to this delightful




AET. 38.. OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 57
sketch by Leslie, which harmonizes with all that Mr.
Irving has told me relative to the composition of that
story, one of the few things he had written, of which
from the first, as I have heard him say, he had never
doubted, it is that he gave the concluding touch to it,
sitting on a grave stone in Lillington churchyard close
by Leamington, while Leslie was sketching a view of
Warwick castle, which the yard commanded.
Another anecdote rises to my mnemory, connected
with that light and frolicsome specimen of his pen.
I was once reading aloud in his presence, a very
flattering review of his works, which had been sent
him by the critic in 1848, and smiled as I came to this
sentence: " His most comical pieces have always a
serious end in view."  " You laugh," said he, with
that air of whimsical significance so natural to him,
"but it is true.  I have kept that to myself hitherto,
but that man has found me out.  IHe has detected
the moral of the Stout Gentleman."
Mr. Irving had intended but a short visit to the
residence of his sister at Birmingham, but was detained
there nearly four months by illness, most of the time
confined to the house.
I have been upwards of two months in England, [he writes
to his brother Ebenezer, Sept. 28.]  I came over in hopes of
getting some manuscript ready for the press this autumn, but
ever since my arrival in England I have been so much out of
health as to prevent my doing any thing of consequence with
VOL. TI. 3*




58                  LIFE AND LETTERS                  L1821.
my pen.  I have been troubled with bilious attacks, to which
I had never before been subject.  It is the consequence of
being too much within doors, and not taking exercise enough.
I am now dieting myself and taking medicine, and I trust I
shall, with a little care and attention, get myself in fine order
again. I am very anxious to get something into print, but find
it next to impossible, in my present state of health, to do any
thing material.  Murray is also extremely desirous; and indeed the success of my former writings would ensure a run to
any thing I should now bring forward.  *  e' *  *
You have wished for an additional number of the Sketch
Book, but I have not been able to prepare one, being occupied
with other writings. If you could clear off the stock of odd
numbers that remain, even though it should be at considerable
sacrifice, I wish you would do it.  We could then publish a
complete and corrected edition in two volumes.
The following letter to Leslie is written eleven
days later from  his sister's house, which he designates
with  characteristic  playfulness, Edgbaston   Castle,
as he had styled her husband Van Wart, on a former occasion, Baron Von Tromp, and his residence the Castle
of the Von Troinps.  His sister's family consisted at
this time of six children, of whom George, who figures
in the letter to the diversion of Leslie, was about four
years of age.
EDGBASTON CASTLE, Oct. 9, 1821.
MY DEAR LESLIE
I have been looking for a letter from you every day. Why
don't you drop me a line? It would be particularly cheering




JET. 38.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  59
just now.  I have not been out of the house since you left
here; having been much indisposed by a cold, I am at the
mercy of every breath of air that blows.  I have had pains in
my head, my face swollen, and yesterday passed the greater
part of the day in bed, which is a very extraordinary thing for
me.  To-day I feel better; but I am sadly out of order; and
what especially annoys me is, that I see day after day and
week after week passing away without being able to do any
thing.  The little folks lament your departure extremely.
George has made his appearance in a new pair of Grimaldi
breeches, with pockets full as deep as the former. To balance
his ball and marbles, he has the opposite pocket filled with a
peg-top and a prodigious quantity of dry peas, so that he can
only lie comfortably on his back or his belly.  The three eldest
boys kept the house in misery for two or three days by peablowers, which they had bought at an enormous price of a tinman.  They at last broke the blowers, and George pocketed
the peas.  He says he means to take care of them  till his
brothers come home at Christmas.  Have you begun any new
picture yet, or have you any immediately in contemplation?
I received a letter from  Newton, which I presume was forwarded by your direction.  Why did you not open it?  It
was dated the 15th September.  He had arrived but two or
three days; had sailed up the Seine from Havre to Rouen with
my brother in the steamboat.  He had dined with Moore, had
passed a day in the Louvre, where he met Wilkie, and strolled
the gallery with him.  He speaks in raptures of the Louvre.
He says it strikes him in quite a different way from what it did
when he was there before. He intended to go to work a day
or two afterwards, and expected to pass the greater part of his
time there.




60                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1821.
Have you seen Murray? when you see him you need not
say where I am. I want the quiet, and not to be bothered in
any way.  Tell him I am in a country doctor's hands at Edgbaston somewhere in Warwickshire.  I think that will puzzle
any one, as Edgbaston has been built only within a year or
two.  Get me all the pleasant news you can, and then sit
down in the evening and scribble a letter, without minding
points or fine terms. My sister is very anxious to hear of you.
You have quite won her heart, not so much by your merits as
by your attention to the children. By the way, the little girls
have become very fond of the pencil since you were here, and
are continually taking their dolls' likenesses.
Ever yours,
W. I.
In the postscript, dated the 17th, of the letter
here alluded  to, Newton  mentions his dining with
Moore the day preceding, and in the body of the letter,
he gives this account of his introduction to La Butte:
I was presented last night at La Butte in a most characteristic manner. As Mr. Moore leaves town in a day or two, Mr.
Story thought no time should be lost to introduce me, so set
off for that purpose after dark and in the rain, which, as you
know the place, will of itself give you an idea of the enterprise.
I, of course, was ignorant of the situation, or I should have
opposed it, as it was undertaken on my account. As it was,
figure to yourself Mrs. Story equipped with an old gentleman's
shoes, (who sat in the carriage the while,) and me with a lanthorn and umbrella, slipping about, drabbled, and sometimes
lost in those mazes of which I have only still a sort of night



MET. 38.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  61
mare recollection.  I was extremely mortified at being the
cause of so much disaster, but they did not seem to think it so
much out. of the way, and as we came off happily, I was on tha
whole glad of the oddity of the adventure.  This and some
other little traits amused me extremely, as corresponding with
the idea you had given me of this coterie.
October 22, Leslie writes him:
Powell and I commenced housekeeping a week ago. It is
probable that nothing will more astonish you on your return
than the metamorphosis at Buckingham  Place.  Not to speak
of window curtains, a pianoforte, small knives and plates at
breakfast, you will be surprised to find an academy established
on the principle of mutual education in various branches of
learning and the fine arts. During breakfast, Powell gives me
a lesson in French.  At five we both study carving.  After
tea I teach him to draw the figures, and at odd times he instructs himself in German and the pianoforte, and once a week
he unfolds to me the mysteries of political economy according
to Cobbett.  Instruction is even extended beyond our walls, as
far indeed as Sloane Street, where Powell delivers a weekly
lecture on perspective.  In this way we pass the time; and I
am quite sure that if I get through the winter as I have passed
the last week, and with you and Newton here, it will be the
most agreeable one I shall have spent in London.  I was glad
to hear of Newton from  you.  I did not see his letter or I
should have opened it.  I am at present painting the portraits
of two little girls, and making a drawing from the " Royal
Poet," the incident of the dove flying into the window. Powell has promised to fill up the sheet. I must therefore bid you
good-bye.




62                   LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1821.
Powell fills  up  the  sheet  after  this  burlesque
fashion:
I am beginning to be ashamed of the prejudices I had imbibed about Buckingham  Place.  All prejudices are hateful,
and people ought to live in every spot they do not like, in
order to ascertain whether their opinions are well or ill-founded.
There are many charms about this place, the enjoyment of
which I never contemplated.  While I am now writing, in addition to the enjoyment of my tea and rolls, a sort of troubadour is warbling beneath my window, together with the partner
of his bosom, and a little natural production between both,
equally regardless of fame and weather, and seemingly smitten
only by the love of half-pence; the pleasure of getting which
in this neighborhood must, I suppose, like that of angling, be
greatly increased by the rarity of the bite. Those things about
us here, that to the common view appear disagreeable, tend to
increase our happiness. The repose and quiet of our evening
talk or studies is rendered still more so by its contrast with a
matrimonial squabble in the street, or the undisguised acknowledgment of pain in the vociferations of a whipped urchin up
the court.
We are also much more pastoral here than you would
imagine.
WTe have a share in a cow, which makes its appearance
twice a day in a blue and white cream-jug. We eat our own
dinners, and generally have enough.  Yesterday, to be sure,
we came a little short, in consequence of Leslie, who acts as
maitre d'hotel, having ordered a sumptuous hash to be made
from a cold shoulder of lamb, the meat of which had been previously stripped from it with surgical dexterity by our host




2ET. 38.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  63
himself during the three preceding days. There have been a
great many disputes in all ages about the real situation of Paradise. I have not, to be sure, read all the arguments upon the
subject; but if I were to go entirely by my own judgment, I
should guess it to be somewhere near the corner of Cambridge
court, Fitzroy Square.
Adieu, and increased health to you.
Yours, &c., &c., &c.
P. P.
The following is the author's reply to Leslie; the
address to his "friend Peter" being missing.
EDGBASTON, Oct. 25, 1821.
MY DEAR LESLIE:
I thank you a thousand times for your letter. I had intended to have answered your preceding one before, but I am
not in mood or condition to write, and had nothing to say
worth writing. I am still in the hands of the physician.  I
have taken draughts and pills enough to kill a horse, yet I cannot determine whether I am not rather worse off than when I
began.
On one favorable day of my complaint I rode over to Solihull in a gig to see the boys. I went in a gig with Van Wart
and our worthy little fiiend, George. I wished you with us a
dozen times.  You would have been delighted with the schoolhouse and the village, and the beautiful old church, and the
surrounding landscape.  It is all picture.  When you are here
again, you must by all means visit the boys at school.  The
young rogues are as hearty and happy as ever school-boys
were.  They took us about their walks, and the scenes of their
enterprises and expeditions; the neighboring park, and several




64                  LIFE AND LETTERS                   [1821.
charming fields and green lanes.  The morning's ramble ended
at the shop of one of the best old women in the world, who
sells cakes and tarts to all the school-boys.  Here they all
spoiled  their dinners, and nearly ruined their papa; and
George, with a citizen-like munificence, distributed sundry
cakes at the door to some of the poor children of the village. I
have no doubt that he has left a most excellent name behind him.
The little girls talk of you very often, and wish you here. They
always wish to know whether you do not mention them in
your letters, and beg that I will give their love to you.  I am
babbling about nothing but children; but in truth they are my
chief company and amusement at present, and I have little else
to talk about.
I cannot at this moment suggest any thing for your Christmas piece.  I do not know your general plan.  Is it to be a
daylight piece, or an evening round a hall fire?  Is there no
news of Newton?  If I had thought he would remain so long
at Paris, I would have written to him. I am glad to hear that
you are so snugly fixed with friend Powell for the winter,
though I should have been much better pleased to have heard
that you were turned neck and heels into the street. Reconcile
it to yourself as you may, I shall ever look upon your present
residence as a most serious detriment to you; and were you to
lose six or even twelve months in looking for another, I should
think you a gainer upon the whole.
What prospects are there of the plates being finished for
"Knickerbocker" and the "Sketch Book?    When do you
begin a large picture, and what subject do you attack first?
It is time you had something under weigh.  I must leave a
space to reply to friend Peter; so farewell for the present,
Yours, ever,   -W. I,




LET. 38.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                    65
Two days after the date of this letter, Mr. Irving
received one from  his brother Ebenezer, announcing a
deep affliction to his sister Catherine, in the death of
her eldest daughter not long after she had been called
to part with a younger one; and also informing him
that his brother William was gradually growing weaker
under a seated- consumption.   The following is his
reply:
BIRMINGHAMI, Nov. 1, 1821.
MY DEAR BROTHER:
I have but a few minutes to reply to your letter of 8th October, which I received this afternoon, but indeed I have little
to say; the letter has taken away all spirit to write.
The calamities in poor sister Catherine's family are dreadful.
She has had her cup of bitterness filled to the brim, and I fear
will suffer seriously in health by these repeated trials.  They
must have a severe effect upon her nerves, and I fear the composure and resignation which she expresses in her letter to
Isaac are but the temporary effects of the stimulus which even
severe affliction will sometimes give during the first stages of
sudden misfortune. It is the after-sorrow that preys upon and
undermines the health.  I wish she could be got away from
Johnstown for a time, and cheered by the society of friends and
the variety of the city.
Brother William's situation, I perceive, is hopeless.  I had
been persuading myself that there was reaction in his system,
and that lie might be induced to make a voyage to France in
time to produce a complete renovation; but the tenor of all the
letters from New York puts an end to all hopes of the kind.
I cannot reconcile myself to the thought.
VoL. II.-(5)




66                  LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1821.
The letter concludes:
Give my most affectionate remembrances to Brother William. I would write to him, but cannot trust my feelings,
whenever the thought of him comes over my mind, I feel my
heart and eyes overflow.
Weeks before this letter reached its destination, his
brother had gone. to his rest.  He died November 9,
1821.
The letter in which Washington announced the bereavement to his brother Peter has not been preserved.
I extract the following from the latter's reply.
I received your letter of Nov. 28, about ten days after its
date; and as I had been for some time in expectation of melancholy tidings, I put it in my pocket with an instinctive boding of its contents, and did not open it until I was quite alone.
Yesterday, I received a letter from Ebenezer, giving the particulars of poor W;Villiam's decease.  He was clear and collected
to the last, and departed with the composure of a virtuous man
to whom death had no terrors. In a conversation with Ebenezer, he mentioned his resignation to his fate; but would fain
have been spared a little longer to have assisted in extricating
him from his present embarrassments.  Poor William! a heart
of more generous warmth has not been chilled in many a day.
"' I had anticipated the event," says Washington to
Ebenezer,  from your previous letters; still the news
of it was one of the dismallest blows that I have ever
experienced."




JET. 38.]       OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  67
In alluding to the loss of this brother, whom he describes as having been " a kind of father to them  all,"
he speaks of him  in a later letter as ".a man full of
worth and talents, beloved in private and honored in
public life." Paulding has also recorded his appreciation of him as "a man of wit and genius."  William
died at the age of 55.  His decease was thought to
have been hastened by over anxiety in business.  IHe
had been about retiring at the close of the war with a
handsome fortune, when a cloud came over the commercial world, and though not involved in the embarrassments of his brothers, he found himself a. serious
sufferer from the times, and obliged to continue a life
of exertion when his health required entire repose.
About this time Mr. Irving received from  Newton
the following letter, which gives some tidings of Moore.
LONDON, Friday, [Nov. 3.]
MY DEAR IRVING:
I arrived in town last Friday, and have been ever since so
occupied, together with much distress of mind, finding on my
arrival here intelligence of the death of my mother, that I have
not really been able to write to you, and now do so in great
haste, and chiefly to enclose a letter which Mr. Story sent by
Moore some weeks since, but which he did not know how to
forward. I am really grieved to hear of your illness, and were
you not exactly where you are, would wish you to be with us;
but as it is, you are certainly better off. Keep up your spirits
though, for I am convinced that, particularly with you, is half
the battle.  I wish you had published a volume of your book,




68                  LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1821.
and that it was making the noise I am sure it would; it would,
I believe, prove your best remedy.
Moore's affairs are settled, and he is coming to live in England; he goes to France on Monday next; he is sitting to me.
He desires his best regards to you, and had he known you were
in Birmingham would have stopped there.  He gave me also a
message from Lord Holland, full of kind remembrances, regrets
for your indisposition, and desire for your presence at Holland
House.  I am also charged with a world of kind things from
men, women, and children in France, but earnestly hope to
convey them verbally soon.
Moore had come over incog. from  Paris some six
weeks before the date of this letter; had settled his
affairs; that is, the Bermuda difficulty, with the money
arising from  the sale to Murray of the memoirs of
Byron, which the poet had given him  in Italy some
two years previous, to make what use of them  he
pleased, though  with  the understanding  that they
could not be published during his life. I-e was now
about to return to Paris, where he remained nearly four
months after Mr. Irving had gone up to London.  I-Ie
had passed through Birmingham  twice during his incognito, without being aware of Mr. Irving's presence
in that city.  The last time was October 21, on his
way fiom Ireland to London.  His diary gives the following record for the next day.
October 22.-Arrived in London at 7 incog.. *  Was
preparing, as usual, to sneak out in a hackney coach, when




~ET. 38.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  69
Rees arrived with the important and joyful intelligence that the
agent has accepted the ~1,000, and that I am now a free man
again. "Walked boldly out into the sunshine, and showed myself up St. James Street and Bond Street.
Moore had returned to Paris on the 11th of November, and when he visited London again in April, he
rescinded his bargain with Murray for the Memoirs of
Byron, making himself a debtor to the publisher for
the two thousand guineas advanced, and leaving the
manuscript in his hands as security for its repayment.
These memoirs, which were not destined to see the
light, Mr. Irving had read while in Paris with Moore.




70                    LIFE AND LETTERS                      [1821.
CHAPTER IV.
RETURN TO  LONDON-LETTER TO EBENEZER-TRANSMITS FIRST VOLUME OF
BRACEBRIDGE HALL-MOSES THOMAS-COOPER AND THE SPY-SENDS OFF
VOLUME II. BRACEBRIDGE HALL-MAKES CONTRACT WITH MURRAY FOR PUBLICATION IN ENGLAND-LETTER TO PETER-BEGINS TO MAKE CALLS-GOES
WITH MOORE TO BREAKFAST AT HOLLAND HOUSE-LETTER TO BREVOORTJOHN RANDOLPH-MRS. SIDDONS-VISIT TO WIMBLEDON, ONE OF THE COUNTRY
SEATS OF EARL SPENCER-MEETING WITH ROGERS-LETTER TO MRS. PARISVISIT TO THE COUNTRY SEAT OF THOMAS HOPE-LINES WRITTEN IN THE
DEEP DENE ALBUM-LETTER TO BREVOORT-ANASTASIUS -ROGERS -MATHEWS, THE COMEDIAN-PREPARING FOR AN EXCURSION INTO GERMANY.
/   I. IRVING  returned  to London on the 26th of
December, and took up his quarters temporarily
ill the house of his friend and countryman, Mr. Hoffman
of Baltimore, from  whom  lie had received repeated and
urgent invitations to do so during his indisposition at
Birmingham.  Here he was most comfortably accommodated for more than six weeks, experiencing from
Mr. Hoffman and his family the most hospitable and
delicate attentions, and being made to feel completely at
home, with " his time and every thing else perfectly at
his command."   The tormenting malady in his ankles,
with which he had been troubled  at Birmingham, still
continued, so that he could not walk without pain and
difficulty. IHe was, therefore, obliged to confine h1im



JET. 38.]       OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 71
self to the house, and indeed for a considerable period
had to keep his legs in a horizontal position.  He had
been subject to great depression of spirits during his
long and painful indisposition at Birmingham, partly
from being rendered nervous and debilitated by confinement and the medicines he took, and partly from
the saddening reports from home.  His general health
and spirits were now, however, improving; and in the
following letter we find him  transmitting across the
Atlantic the first volume of Bracebridge Hall, which
he had hoped to have had ready for the press the preceding autumn, but which had been retarded by indisposition, depression, and the fact that when he had got
it nearly complete he was induced, as has been before
stated, to subtract from it a large portion, which would
form the foundation of a workby itself, and task himself in the height of his illness to supply its place.
[To Ebenezer Irving.]
LONDON, Jan. 29, 1822.
MY DEAR BROTHER:
By the packet from Liverpool which brings this letter I
forward you a parcel, containing the first volume of BRACEBRIDGE HALL, or THE HIUMOURISTS, a MEDLEY in two volumes.
I had hoped to have sent both volumes, but I have not been
able to get the second volume ready in time for this opportunity, though I have tried until the last moment. You will receive it, however, by the next opportunity, and very probably
before you can have made the necessary arrangements for
printing.  At any rate, put the first volume to press imame



2                    LIFE AND LETTERS                  L1822.
diately and publish it as soon as possible, with or without the
second volume.  As it is not like a novel, but rather a connectec series of tales and essays, it is of no great importance
that they should be published together; but it is of the greatest
importance that some part of the work should appear as early as
possible, to give me some chance of securing copyright. I shall
have to put it to press here in a very short time, as the season
is advancing, and my publisher is very impatient; besides, the
public has been expecting something from me for some time
past, and it will not do to let expectation get too high.  If the
work is'not got out very soon therefore in America, there will
be a chance of an English copy getting out beforehand, and thus
throwing me at the mercy of American publishers.  Should
the number of copies make any material difference in the time
of getting out the work, you had better let the first edition be
rather small; and put another to press the moment I furnish
you with proof sheets of the English edition, in which there
will doubtless be many alterations, as I have not had time to
revise some parts of the work sufficiently, and am apt to make
alterations to the last moment.
The work had better be printed in duodecimo; and to save
time in binding, let the volumes be put up in lettered covers
like the Sketch Book.  The second edition can be got up in
better style. The first volume runs, as near as I can guess, between 340 and 35'0 pages of the American edition of the
Sketch Book. The second volume will be about the same size.
You can make your estimates accordingly.  Put what price
you think proper.  I do not care about its being a very high
one.  I wish, expressly, Moses Thomas to have the preference
over every other publisher.  I impress this upon you, and beg
you to attend to it as earnestly as if I had written three sheets




JET. 88.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  73
full on the subject.  Whatever may have been his embarrassments and consequent want of punctuality, lie is one who
shewed a disposition to serve me, and who did serve me in the
time of my necessity, and I should despise myself could I for a
moment forget it.  Let him have the work on better terms
than other publishers, and do not be deterred by the risk of
loss.
I have not had time to page the work, but must beg you
to do it. I have given a table of contents in the order in
which the papers are to be put, and have numbered each with
a pencil for your direction.  These numbers are not to be
printed over the papers.  Perhaps it will be best to advertise
the work as in the press, to secure orders in time.
I have no time left to say any thing further. I have fagged
until the last moment, and am now fit to go to bed. My health
is still unrestored.  This work has kept me from getting well,
and my indisposition on the other hand has retarded the work.
I have now been about five weeks in London, and have only
once been out of doors, about a month since, and that made
me worse.
From what Mr. Irving has told me, I infer he must
have left his sick chamber this' once " to confer with
Murray respecting the publication of " The Spy," the
first of Cooper's novels which created his reputation,
and laid the foundation of his claim  to enduring literary distinction.  Wiley, his American publisher, had
sent the printed volume to Murray, accompanied by a
letter from  Cooper, referring him  to Mr. Irving for
terms.   Mr. Wiley at the same time wrote to Mr.
VoL. lI. 4




74                   LIFE AND LETTERS                   [1822.
Irving, apprising him of this proceeding, and requesting
him, should MIurray decline to make such an offer for
the work as in his opinion it might be worth, " to call
on some other respectable house."  MTurray retained
the work until IMr. Irving grew impatient for an answer, and then declined its publication.  Meanwhile, it
found its way to the English public through another
channel.  iMr. Irving reported its fate in a letter to
Wiley not in my possession, if it be still in existence,
and it is that communication which led to this direct
epistle fiom  Cooper, prior to his adoption, as will be
seen fiom  the signature, of his middle name of Fenimore.
DEAR SIR.
The friendly interest you have taken in the success of my
books, demands of me a direct acknowledgment of your kindness.  I was not very sanguine as to the success of the "Spy 
in England, nor was I at all surprised when I learnt that the
book was referred to Mr. Gifford, that Mir. Murray declined
publishing it. If the latter is made sensible of the evil guidance
that lie has been subjected to, one good purpose, at least, will
follow the success which you are so good as to communicate.
MIr. Benjamin AV. Coles, of this city, is now in Europe, and
has been so kind as to take charge of my new work, "The
Pioneers;" I should be pleased to have him aided by your experience.  If you meet he will probably call on you, and you
will find him a gentleman of acquirements, and modest, pleasing
manners.
By a Mr. Halleck, the admirable Croaker, I have sent to




A.T. 38.]       OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 7
Mr. Coles the first hundred pages of the work in print. I shall
take proper caution to secure the copyright in both countries,
if it can be done.
I desire, Sir, to thank you again for your attention to my
interests, and the advice for my future government.
Very respectfully,
Your servant,
NEw YORK, July 30, 1822.               JAMES COOPER.
Fitz-Greene IHalleck, mentioned above, who shared
with Joseph Rodman Drake the authorship of the satirical effusions first published in the New York Evening Post, under the signature of Croaker and Croaker
and Co., was soon destined to a wider and more exalted
celebrity in the front rank of American poets.  Drake,
whose genius gave promise of a brilliant career, died at
the early age of twenty-five, leaving behind him  in
manuscript that exquisite creation of fancy, The Culprit Fay.
Mr. Irving was in Germany when this letter of
Cooper was received, and did not return to London for
some time, so that he had no opportunity of conferring
with Murray respecting the Pioneers, of which he
[Murray] became the publisher.
The second volume of Bracebridge Hall was despatched to INew York the last of February, a month
after the other, but reached its destination within eight
days of it; the first having a passage of sixty days.
They were received in April, and hurried through the
press by Ebenezer for fear of being anticipated by the




76               LIFE AND LETTERS              [1822.
copy on the English side. The work was printed in
the style of the Sketch Book, and for want of time
only a thousand copies were printed in the first edition;
"it would have been more profitable," says Ebenezer,
"to have made the edition larger, but it would not do
to venture on it."  It appeared May 21, 1822. Soon
after fMr. Irving had sent the second volume to America, and thus given it a fair start, he proceeded to
make a contract with Murray for its publication in
England.
When the author came up from  Birmingham  to
London with the MS. of Bracebridge Hall, Colburn
called on him, introduced by Campbell the poet, and
offered him a thousand guineas for it, but le would not
entertain a proposition to leave Mlurray. The latter
had been very anxious to have something from him as
the season was advancing, and when 1iMr. Irving went
to him, at the instance of his friends, who probably
knew his too easy acquiescence in any sum that might
be offered, he was induced to name his own price,
which was fifteen hundred guineas.  This staggered
Murray,  who, after a moment's hesitation, began:' If
you had said a thousand guineas;   you. shall have it
for a thousand guineas," said Mr. Irving, breaking in.
Murray was taken aback by this. He had probably
been prepared to divide the difference, and go the
length of twelve hundred and fifty guineas. When he
found Mr. Irving respond so promptly to the lesser
sum, he sat down at once, and drew out the notes for




ET'. 38.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  7
the amount, and gave them  to him, although he did
not receive the manuscript until nearly two weeks
afterwards.  I-e also threw  in a handsome donation
of books, which the author sent to his sister at Birmingham.
After all, as his brother Peter writes him  on hearing of the bargain with Murray, " a thousand guineas
has a golden sound."
The letter which follows to Peter, contains the announcement of the contract.
35 MADDOX STREET, -IANOVER SQUARE
LONDON, March 24, 1822.
MY DEAR BnOTHER:
I have been looking for a letter from you for some time
past.  I suppose the steamboat must have resumed its voyages
during the present month, and I want to know how it operates
and whether it holds out better prospects.
I have sold my new work to Murray, and it is in the press.
It will form two volumes nearly about the size of the Sketch
Book, to be entitled Bracebridge Hall, or the Humourists, being of a miscellaneous nature like the Sketch Book, but connected by a set of characters and incidents.  Murray gives me
a thousand guineas for it, in his notes at three and six months.
My friends thought I ought to have had more for it, but I am
content.  I am glad to find that Gifford thinks it superior
to the Sketch Book, as to composition, and calculated to increase my reputation.
As the steamboat may continue as dry as the bull that the
Irishman undertook to milk, I send you a couple of hundred
pounds to keep you in pocket money until the boat begins to




g8                   LIFE AND LETTERS                   [1822.
pay better.  I beg you won't be squeamish about the thing.
If you don't want the money, it may as well lie idle in your
hands as in mine; and if you do want it, why you must get it
from some source or other, and I don't know any one more unexceptionable than from one who has been a great part of his life
under such pecuniary obligations to you.  But the best way is
not to say any thing pro or con about the matter, but let it be
as it should be, a matter of course between us. I hope and
trust to get more writings ready for the press long before I
shall exhaust my funds in Europe, independent of what will be
accumulating in America.
In  announcing the receipt of the bill for ~200,
Peter writes:
This unlooked-for remittance is most grateful to me, not
from its arrival at a moment of want, for I have no call for it,
but as a testimony of the affection and generosity of your disposition.
I shall not affect any fastidious scruples on the subject, for
I trust I am free from  any affectation of the kind.  -When I
have declined your repeated offers of pecuniary aid, it was at
a period when I seemed precluded by some fatality from every
exertion of industry.  *  i  
The remittance you have sent I will hold as a corps de reserve for us both, and make use of it without hesitation if I
should find myself in want.
Mr. Irving sent the last proof of Bracebridge Hall
to press in London, May 11, 1822. He had made great
alterations and additions as the work was printing, so




JET. 39.]       OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                79
that the first English edition differed considerably from
the first American one.  The two editions were published within two days of each other, the American
appearing on the 21st, and the English on the 23d of
May.
Some time before the appearance of Bracebridge
Hall in London, iMr. Irving found himself getting the
better of his eruptive complaint.  He had been at a
grievous expense with doctors to but little purpose, and
he finally determined to undertake his own cure; "for
I fancy',  he says, "I understand  the complaint as
well as any of them."  His first step was to give up
keeping to the house and nursing, and to go out and to
take exercise every day.  He found his general health
to improve under this regimen, without any increase in
the irritation in his ankles.  HIe then began to pay
visits, and soon found himself in a constant hurry of
engagements, in the midst of which Moore came over
to London from Paris for a brief sojourn, arriving April
16, and leaving Mlay 7. During this interval his diary,
for AMr. Irving kept none at this period, gives us a few
glimpses of the author, of which I select the following:
Jfaay 2d. —Went with Irving to breakfast at Holland House.
The Duke of Bedford came in after breakfast, fresh from his
duel with the Duke of Buckingham.
rMay 5th.-Irving walked about with me; called together
at Lady Blessington's, who is growing very absurd.  "I have
felt very melancholy and ill all this day," she said.  "Why is




sO                  LIFE AND LETTERS                  L1822.
that," I asked.  "Don't you know?"  " No."  "It is the anniversary of my poor Napoleon's death."
In the following letter to Brevoort, which continues
the picture of his life in London, we find mention of
John Randolph and Mrs. Siddons.
[To Henry Brevoort.]
LoNDON, June 11, 1822.
MY DEAR BREVOORT:
It is a long time since I have heard from you. Your visits
to Charleston seem  always to interrupt our correspondence.
For my part, between ill health, hard scribbling to make up for
lost time and get another work into the press, and the many
engagements and interruptions that consume time and distract
my mind since my return to England, I find it impossible to
keep up punctual correspondences, and am now overwhelmed
with epistolary debts. About three weeks since I launched a
new work which you have doubtless seen long since in America.  The English edition has many alterations and additions,
as I got into better health and spirits after I sent my manuscript to America, and was enabled to improve the work while
printing. It seems to give satisfaction here, and I am nearly
killed with kindness.  I have not a moment to myself, and am
so fatigued with company and dinner and evening parties, that
I find it impossible to regain a perfect state of health, but am
still troubled with lameness and inflammation in the ankles, the
lingerings of my tedious malady. I shall, however, soon leave
this scene of bustle and dissipation and go to a watering-place
on the continent (Aix-la-Chapelle) where I hope thoroughly to
reinstate my health.  Within these two months past I have




JET. 39.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                    81
given myself up to society more than I have at any time since
I have been in Europe, having for the last four or five years
been very much shut up and at home.  I was determined this
spring to give myself a holiday, and make use of the opportunity presented me of seeing fashionable life. I have done this
to a considerable degree, though I have suffered much drawback on account of the indifferent state of my health.
The success of my writings has given me ready access to
all kinds of society, and I have been the rounds of routs, dinners, operas, balls, and blue-stocking coteries. I have been
much pleased with those parties in which rank, and fashion,
and talent are blended; and where you find the most distinguished people of the day in various departments of literature,
art, and science brought into familiar communion with leading
statesmen and ancient nobility.  By the bye, I had many inquiries made after you by Sir James Mackintosh, who retains a
most friendly recollection of you.
John Randolph is here, and has attracted much attention.
He has been sought after by people of the first distinction. I
have met him  repeatedly in company, and his eccentricity of
appearance and manner makes him the more current and interesting; for in high life here, they are always eager after any
thing strange and peculiar.  There is a vast deal, too, of the
old school in Randolph's manner, the turn of his thoughts, and
the style of his conversation, which seems to please very much.
Young Hammond also was much liked here, and I only
regretted that he did not stay a little longer.  He is one of the
best bred young men that I have met with from our country,
and one who, I think, will be distinguished in the society of New
York for good manners and good sense.  There seems a strong
VOL. II.-4-        (6)




82                 LIFE AND LETTERS                 [1822.
disposition to be pleased with every thing American just now
among the better classes in England, and a great curiosity
awakened respecting our literature.
Among other interesting acquaintances that I have made is
Mrs. Siddons.  She is now near seventy, and yet a magnificent
looking woman. It is surprising how little time has been able
to impair the dignity of her carriage, or the noble expression of
her countenance. I heard her read the part of Constance at
her own house one evening, and I think it the greatest dra
matic treat I have had for a long time past.
Four days after the date of this letter, Mr. Irving
received an invitation from Lady Spencer to dine with
her at Wimbledon, one of the country seats of Lord
Spencer, about twelve miles from  London.  This was
the lady whose Christmas invitation he had not been
able to accept.  At this dinner he first met the poet
Rogers, who had lately returned fiom  the continent;
and who, though a stranger, received him  with the
hearty cordiality of an old friend.  Irving at this time
was overrun with invitations from  many of whom  he
knew  nothing.  Rogers cautioned him  to be on his
guard, or the common-place would hunt him  down.
" Shew me your list of invitations," said lhe,  and let
me give you a hint or two.  This accept," to one;
" that decline," to another; to a third, "this man
avoid by all means; oh! he's a direful bore."  Mr.
Irving was quite amused at this worldly advice of the
poet, and especially at the decided emphasis of the
last sentence.  Who the individual was, so impres



2AT. 39.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING                   83
sively  complimented, lie did not specify  when  the
anecdote fell from him.
I have heard Mr. Irving relate the following curious
incident, as occurring at Wimbledon, where it seems
he passed the night. He was reading, as was his custom  through life, in bed.  His door suddenly opened
cautiously, and in stalked  a grim  apparition in the
shape of a man with a lantern, who quietly walked
up to his light, and with  some muttered sentence
which escaped him, extinguished it, and then walked
out, shutting the door after hiin, and leaving Geoffrey in a maze at the mysterious intrusion.  Lady
Spencer laughed heartily when he mentioned the incident the next morning at breakfast.  " Oh," said she,' that was my fireman; we once lost a country seat by
fire, and ever since he has had orders to walk the corridors at night, and when he detects a light from under
the door, to extinguish it."
The next trace of him is June 21, when he is passing a few days at the country seat of Mr. Thomas
Iope, author of Anastasius; from which the following
letter to his sister Catherine bears date.
[To Mrs. Paris.]
Tnm DEEP DENE, SUInRY, June 21, 1822.' * *     I am still very much troubled by a lingering cutaneous complaint, which I have long been endeavoring to
cure, and had almost succeeded; but I have been so much occupied in preparing my new work for the press, and since its
publication lhave been so harassed by society, and by con



84                  FLIFE AND LETTERS                   [1822.
tinual invitations which I found it in vain to withstand, that
my recovery has been impeded; and I am  frequently quite
lame with the inflammation of my ankles.  Literary success, if
it- has its charms, has likewise its disadvantages; and in so
huge a place as London, where there is such a world of people
living at their ease, with nothing to consult but amusement and
society, the least notoriety takes away from a man all command
of his time or person, unless he becomes absolutely rude and
churlish.  If I remain any time in England when I return from
the continent, I shall pass it almost entirely in the country,
where I can. be more to myself, and have my mind undisturbed
by visitors and invitations.  I cannot, however, but feel sensible of the extreme kindness and hospitality that is lavished
on me by all ranks, though it is apt to be a little too engrossing.  I am now writing from a country seat in a beautiful part
of the country where I am passing a few days.  It is the residence of Mr. Thomas Hope, one of the richest and most extraordinary men in England, not more famous for his wealth and
magnificence than for being the author of Anastasius, a work
of great merit and curious character.  His wife, the Hon. Mrs.
Hope, is one of the loveliest women in the kingdom, and one
of the reigning deities of fashion. Their country-seat is fuirnished in a style of taste and magnificence of which I can give
you no idea.  With all this, they are delightfully frank, simple,
and unpretending in their manners, especially in their country
retreat; which is the true place to see English people to advantage.  There are several persons on a visit here, besides
myself; and time passes away very pleasantly.    *'    * 
You cannot think how much you have gratified me by expressing the satisfaction derived from  my writings, and from
the public sentiments expressed about them. One of the purest




aET. 39.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                     85
pleasures which literary success cal yield me is the satisfaction
it may give my relatives.  My life has been for the greater
part a desultory and unprofitable one, owing perhaps to the
great ascendency of my imagination over the more valuable
faculties of the mind. I have often felt distressed by the idea
that I must be an object of censure among my friends; you
may judge then how heartfelt is my gratification at finding you
and my dear sister Sally expressing a pride in what I have done,
and what others say of me.  Believe me, my dear sister, the
fondest wish of my heart will be gratified if I can enjoy the
affection of my relatives while living, and leave a name that
may be cherished by the family when my poor wandering life is
at an end.
The following contribution to the Album  at Deep
Dene, which  I take from  the Cornhill Magazine of
M~ay, 1860, in which it appeared after his death, is in
unison with this strain of thought.
WRITTEN IN THE DEEP DENE ALBUM.
June 24, 1822.
Thou record of the votive throng
That fondly seek this fairy shrine,
And pay the tribute of a song
Where worth and loveliness combineWhat boots that I, a vagrant wight
From clime to clime still wandering on,
Upon thy friendly page should writeWho'll think of me when I am gone?




86                    LIFE AND LETTERS                      [1822.
Go plough the wave, and sow the sand;
Throw seed to every wind that blows;
Along the highway strew thy hand
And fatten on the crop that grows.
For even thus the man that roams
On heedless hearts his feeling spends;
Strange tenant of a thousand homes,
And friendless, with ten thousand friends!
Yet here for once I'll leave a trace,
To ask in aftertimes a thought;
To say that here a resting-place
My wayworn heart has fondly sought.
So the poor pilgrim heedless strays,
Unmoved, through many a region fair;
But at some shrine his tribute pays,
To tell that he has worshipped there,
WASHINGTON IRVING.
June 30, he writes to Brevoort from  London:
I had thought to have been off to the continent before this,
but yet here I am.  However, I am  resolved to go in the
course of a week.
I have made so many very interesting and agreeable acquaintances of late, that I find it hard to get away from them.
Indeed I have got on sociable terms with most of the men of
letters and the leading artists of the day that are in London,
and am continually meeting with curious and entertaining characters.  A  few  days since I was made acquainted with old
Lady Jones, widow of Sir William Jones.  I had no idea of
her being yet alive.  She is lively and cheerful, and in full




.ET. 39.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                     87
possession of her faculties and animal spirits.  She is the
daughter of the Bishop of St. Asaph, who voted against the
American war.  She remembers Dr. Franklin, who was a
friend of her father; and relates two or three anecdotes of him.
She has always been a very strong friend of America.
I lately passed a few  days at the country seat of Mr.
Thomas Hope, author of Anastasius. You have read his work,
I presume; which I think one of the most extraordinary productions of the day.  He is an extremely interesting man,
somewhat shy and reserved to strangers, but full of knowledge
and talent, and most amiable in his manners when you become
acquainted with him.  He has written a vast deal that he has
never published, and is now busy upon a metaphysical work.
He has voluminous travels in manuscript, and is a masterly
draughtsman.  It is a thousand pities that he cannot be persuaded to publish more.  His travels must be full of interesting
incident and observation.
Rogers, the poet, returned not long since from the continent,
and I breakfast occasionally with him, and meet Crabbe and
others of his literary friends. He has one of the completest
and most elegant little bachelor establishments that I have ever
seen.  It is as neat, and elegant, and finished, and small, as his
own principal poem.
Jtly  Ist.-I have scrawled this letter at intervals; for I
hlave many to write to, and am so distracted by engagements
and occupied by making preparations to go to the continent,
that I have hardly a moment of leisure time or quiet thought.
Mathews, the comedian, is coming out to make a tour in
America, which I have no doubt will be a successful one.  His
powers of entertainment are wonderful.  By his talents at
imitation, lie in a manner raises the dead and makes them walk




88                   LIFE AND LETTERS                   L1822.
and talk for your amusement; for his specimens of Tate ~Wilkinson, Macklin, Wilkes, &c., &c., are among the best of his
imitations.  He is a very correct, gentlemanlike man in private
life, and at times the life of a dinner-table by his specimens of
characters of the day. I shall give him letters to America,
and among others to yourself.
I have written a letter to that honest tar, Jack Nicholson,
and am ashamed that I have not done so before; but really I
have no time to write often, and find myself more and more
getting into habits of procrastination.
I wish you would make interest, through James Renwick,
to get the college to employ John Miller, bookseller, Fleet
Street, as a literary agent in London.  He is a most deserving
and meritorious little man, indefatigable in the discharge of any
commission intrusted to him, and moderate and conscientious in
his charges.  He devotes himself almost exclusively to American business.  I would strongly recommend him to yourself
should you at any time want books from London.  He could
hunt up any rare works; and I believe you would save money
by employing him.
Give my sincere regards to Mirs. Brevoort, and remember
me affectionately to the Renwicks and to your father's family.
I am, my dear Brevoort,
Ever most truly yours,
WASHINGTON IRVING.
When MIr. Irving returned from. Deep Dene to his
lodgings in London, he found his table covered with
invitations which had accumulated during his absence.
I have been leading a sad life lately [he writes to his
brother Peter, June 301, bur;ninr the candle at both ends, and




JET. 39.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                    89
seeing the fashionable world through one of its seasons.  The
success of my writings gave me an opportunity, and I thought
it worth while to embrace it if it were only for curiosity's sake.
I have therefore been tossed about " hither and thither and
whither I would not; " have been at the levee and the drawing-room, been at routs, and balls, and dinners, and countryseats; been hand-and-glove with nobility and mobility, until
like Trim I have satisfied the sentiment, and am now preparing
to make my escape from all this splendid confusion.
HIe was intending to make the best of his way to
Aix-la-Chapelle, for the benefit of the baths and waters.




90                    LIFE AND LETTERS                      [1822.
CHAPTER V.
FROM LONDON TO HEIDELBERG-AMSTERDAI-AIX-LA-CHAPELLE-THE CATHEDRAL-OLD CUSTOM-AN OLD ACQUAINTANCE-CONVOY TO WISBADEN-THE
GERMAN STYLE OF LIVING-SCENE OF THE SPECTRE BRIDEGROOM-A GERMAN
CARRIAGE AND DRIVER-MAYENCE-A CONTINENTAL INN-INTRODUCTION TO
THE TALES OF A TRAVELLER-KATRINA-A TEDIOUS MALADY-THE HUDSON
AND THE RHINE-FRANKFORT-THE FAIR-THE VINTAGE-HEIDELBERGLETTER FRO I MOORE.
T IlE restless life which the author had been leading
- in  London, had  thrown  him  back  in  his recovery,  and  when  he  started  for Aix-la-Chapelle,
he was still rather lame from  the lingerings of his
cutaneous complaint.  From  this ancient city it was
his intention to make a little excursion into Germany,
and  then  return to Paris in the autumn;; but such
was not to be the course of his wandering.
On  the  6thl  of July, he left London for Rotterdam, and  proceeded  thence  by  the Ilague, Leyden,
Haarlem   and  Amsterdam, to  the "'little old  ghostridden city," as lie terms  it in his notes, which lihe
reached June 17.
At Amsterdam  his note-book has this record:




zET. 39.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING. 
Put up at the Arms of Amsterdam; a rambling, ill-conducted hotel.  Have to ring several times, and then three or
four queer, shabby-looking waiters come tumbling into the
room, speaking bad French, bad English, and what is worst of
all, good Dutch.
My chamber one of those high old Dutch rooms with long
windows that might serve for a church, looking out upon a narrow street of tall houses, with queer faces at every window. The
room has overhanging chimney with stove under it.  Arcadian
scene; shepherd in silk breeches on the wall.
Table d'hote.  Englishman with sour, discontented face,
travelling to find whatever is bad out of England; next to hili
a pleasant-faced Russian, who speaks English well and praises
England; Englishman condescends to accept every compliment,
but gives none in return.
I bring  together some extracts from  his letters
during the progress of his journeying  from  Aix-laChapelle to Heidelberg, where he expected to make
his head quarters, when he set out on his tour.
[To Mirs. Van WTart.]
AIx-LA-CHAPELLE, August 2, 1822.
iMY DEAR SISTER:
I have now been here for upward of two weeks, and have
had rather a lonely, uncomfortable time of it.  For a greater
part of the time I have been almost confined to my room, and
have suffered extremely from  the inflammation in my legs.
I have been without any acquaintance and even without a disposition to make any; for my lameness and suffering almost
unfit me for society. I am at times quite dispirited by this re



92                   LIFE AND LETTERS                     L1822.
turning virulence of my complaint; it is so tedious of cure; it
so completely alters all my habits of living and subjects me to
such continual baths of a powerful kind, that I sometimes fear
it may effect some injury to my constitution, and prepare the
way for other maladies. As yet, however, my general health
is good, and if I could only get unfettered from this cruel malady, I should have nothing to complain of.  I am disappointed
in Aix-la-Chapelle. To me it is a very dull, place, and I do not
find that others seem more pleased with it. The environs of
the town are beautiful. There are public gardens that almost
surround the walls, and very lovely country in every direction,
but I have been unable to avail myself of the delightful walks,
and have only once taken a drive in a carriage in the vicinity.
This is the birthplace, and was once the seat of empire of
Charlemagne, that monarch so renowned in history and song.
His tomb is in the cathedral, and is only marked by a broad
slab of black marble, on which is the inscription, Carolo lMacgno.
The Cathedral is an extremely ancient, venerable-looking pile.
Every night I hear the hours chimed on its bells; and the
midnight hours announced by the watchman from  its tower.
The Germans are full of old customs and usages, which are
obsolete in other parts of the world.  At eleven, twelve, and
one o'clock the watchman on the tower of the Cathedral, when
the clock strikes, blows as many blasts of a horn as there are
strokes of the clock; and the sound of these warning notes of
time in the stillness of the night, has to me something extremely solemn.
The people have an antiquated look, particularly the lower
orders.  The women dress in peculiar costumes.  As to the
company at the hotels and public saloons, it is composed of
all nations, but particularly northern nations: Russians, Prus



JET. 89.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                    93,sians, Germans, Dutch, &c. Everywhere you see military characters, in fierce moustaches and jingling spurs, with ribbons and
various orders at their button-holes.  Still, though there are
many personages of rank here, the place is not considered the
most fashionable, and there are many rough characters in the
crowds that throng the saloons. Indeed it is somlewhat difficult
to distinguish a gentleman from a common man among these
northern people; there is great slovenliness of dress and coarseness of appearance among them; they all smoke; and I have
often been surprised to hear a coarse-looking man, whom I had
set down for some common tradesman, addressed as Monsieur
the Count or the Baron.
The weather has been very bad for several days past.  As
soon as it gets more settled, and I feel well enough to venture
the journey, I think I shall make another push, and ascend the
Rhine to Wisbaden, which is a more pleasant and fashionable
watering-place; and where, from  all I can learn, I think the
waters will be more efficacious than here.  At any rate, I shall
then have seen the most beautiful part of the Rhine, and if 1
do not amend pretty readily in my health, I shall make for
Paris at once, get in the neighhorhood of a dry vapor bath, and
then lay by until I make a perfect cure.  It is extremely tantalizing to be here just on the frontiers of Germany, in the
vicinity of some of the most beautiful and romantic scenery in
Europe, and to be thus fettered and disabled.''
The day after this passage was written, good fortune threw  in his way a very old acquaintance, Mlr.
Thomas Brandram, who had ascended the Hudson with
him during his first tour to Canada with Mr. Hoffman's




94                  LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1822.
party, and whom  he had since met in London, where
he was the principal of an opulent commercial house.
He was travelling alone in his carriage, and after passing a couple of days together, Mr. Irving found himself so much cheered by having a companion to talk
to) that he was induced, lame as he was, to accept his
invitation of a convoy to Wisbaden.
Away then we rolled [says he in a letter to Peter]; he
had a charming light open carriage in which I could loll at full
length; he was a capital traveller, toolk the management of
every thing upon himself; had an excellent servant who was
all attention to me, and in spite of my malady I made one of
the pleasantest excursions possible.  Though too lame to explore the curious old towns and the romantic ruins which we
passed, yet I lolled in the carriage, and banquetted on fine
scenery in Brevoort's favorite style. After all that I had heard
and read, the Rhine far surpassed my expectations.  Indeed,
T am perfectly delighted with Germany.  After posting thus
for four days en prince, we arrived at Wisbaden.
[To Mirs. cVan TWart.]
WISBADEN, Aug. 19, 1822.
MY DEAR SISTER:
I have just received the letter from  you and Mr. Van
Wart, crammed full of very agreeable and interesting matter.
How it has cheered and gratified me in my present solitude, for
I am  here solitary amidst a crowd.  My worthy friend with
whom I came on here left me last Monday, and I have been
without a companion through the week; for at these watering



AJT. 39.]        OF WASHINGTON IIVING.                   95
places the people are all continually going and coming, making
but transient stay, and are too much taken up with their own
parties and companions to trouble themselves with a stranger
and an invalid, who cannot speak their language.  Perhaps
the fault rests with myself, for my present indisposition takes
away from my spirits, and from that alacrity in conversation
which is necessary to make the most of society in travelling..-  5 -..-.-    ~.  -  ~Though I have no acquaintances here, yet I contrive to
get through my days very tolerably.  There are fine public
walks and shrubberies immediately opposite my hotel, and a
beautiful public garden within five minutes' walk.  My windows command a prospect of it, and I limp to it, and pass part
of my days there.  I have not been able to apply myself to
literary labor since the publication of my last work.  It seems
as if my mind took holiday the moment it was out of the
traces, like a horse turned loose in the pasture; and as I am
anxious to restore my health perfectly, I have not attempted
to task myself in the least.  I wish you were here with me to
enjoy some of the fine scenery of this neighborhood, and to take
a day's tour among the woody glens and charming little valleys that lie among the Taunus mountains, or to coast along
the lovely borders of the Rhine where the hills are covered
with woods and vineyards, and crowned with mouldering old
castles.  I am very much pleased with the Germans; they are
a frank, kind, well-meaning people, and I make no doubt were
I in a place where I could become intimate, I should enjoy
myself very much among them.  The mode of living here is
quite primitive in some respects, particularly as to hours.  I
am now in a very fine fashionable hotel.  I find the house in a
bustle between six and seven in the morning, when the com



Q9 6Q         LIFE AND LETTERS                     L182S.
pany bathe and then breakfast in their rooms.  At one o'clock
dinner is served in the grand saloon at a table d'hote.  Some
hotels dine at two o'clock, but this is considered rather late.
After dinner, generally, the toilette is made for the evening
promenade, the theatre, the ball, or concert, or whatever may
be the amusement of the evening.  At some hotels there is a
table d'hote again for supper at about eight o'clock, which is
as hearty a meal as the dinner; but at the hotel where I stay
the guests order supper according to their inclination.  The
play goes in at six o'clock and comes out at nine.  The balls
begin at seven, or at most eight o'clock, and are generally over
between ten and eleven.  Most commonly the good folks are
all quiet and in bed by ten o'clock-after all, there is something
very sensible and comfortable in this old fashioned style of
living, and it seens to be healthy too, for the Germans, in
general, are a very hearty-looking people.  *  i* e
Aug. 20th.-I have had a restless, sleepless night from this
tormenting malady.  I believe I walked a little too much yesterday, it being Sunday, and the public gardens full of people
of all ranks.  I think I shall quit Wisbaden in a day or two,
and go to the old city of Mayence, or Mentz, about six miles
from hence, on the banks of the Rhine.  There is a bath there
of the kind I require, and I shall have the resource of a large
town to interest me, besides being able to make excursions on
water among the beautiful scenery of the Rheingau, and up
the Mayne to Frankfort, for the river Mayne empties into the
Rhine just at Mayence.  By-the-bye, the fair at Frankfort
commences in a few days, which is one of the greatest fairs in
Europe.      *  *
8 o'clock, evening.-I am just returned from a delightful drive
among the mountains, and up to a place called Du Platte, where




ET. 39.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   97
the Duke of Nassau (in whose territories I now am) had a
hunting lodge.  I set off about five o'clock, that I might enjoy
the sunset among the mountains. I cannot express to you how
charming these drives are among beautiful woody mountains,
with every now and then prospects over an immense tract of
country, with the Mayne and Rhine winding through it.  The
weather is temperate and serene, especially in the evenings.
The landscape is dotted with villages.  Mayence is a striking
object in every view, and far off to the south the prospect is
bounded by the blue heights of the Odenwald.  It is in this
latter region you may recollect that I laid the scene of my
little story of the Spectre Bridegroom.  It would amuse you
to see me in a crazy, clumsy open carriage, drawn by two
ragged, bony, long-tailed horses, and harnessed with old ropes
and rotten strips, which are the kind of hackney vehicles in
German towns.  Here I sit with my legs coiled up something
like a Turkish bashaw, and hold a mongrel conversation, made
up of English, French, and German, with the driver.  The one
that drove me this afternoon was full of admiration of the Kerzog von Nassau, (the Duke of Nassau,) whom he seemed to
regard as the greatest potentate on earth.  He was continually
breaking out into eulogies of the forests, the hills, the vineyards, all which belonged to the Kerzog; and then the vast
number of deer and wild boars in these forests, all belonging to
the Kerzog; and then the fine hunting seat, where the Kerzog
came in the autumn to hear the belling of the deer; all his
raptures were expressed in bad and broken German to enable
me the better to understand him, and accompanied by great
grimace and gesticulation.  *  * *
I have determined to shift my head-quarters after dinner
VOL. II.-5       (7)




98                   LIFE AND LETTERS                     [1822.
to-day to Mayence on the banks of the Rhine, about five or six
miles from this, and I will continue my letter from that place.
Aug. 21, Eveniing.-Here I am  safely quartered at Mayence; and though I felt some regret at leaving the splendid
hotel and pleasant environs of Wisbaden, yet I find much to
compensate me at this place.  The bath here is a kind of private property of an old gentleman, a kind of half philosopher
and Jack-of-all-trades, who constructed it for his own cure. He
knows, therefore, how to administer it, which is a great advantage; for I suffered much pain from  the ignorance of the attendants at Wisbaden, who made the baths too hot, which
nearly occasioned fainting, and produced severe pain in my
ankles. This place is remarkably well situated for enjoying the
scenery of the Rhine.  From the bridge of boats which crosses
the river in front of the town, there is a beautiful view down
the Rheingau with several little islands covered with trees,
while along the opposite side of the river lie the warm  sunny
hills which produce the' finest Rhine wines.  They lie exposed
to the south, and sheltered by the range of Taunus mountains
from  the north winds, so that their grapes have the choicest
influence of sun and weather.  Nothing can be more charming
than this look down the river, with the fine range of mountains
closing the view; and then, on looking up, there is the little
chateau and village of Hockheimer, famous for its wine; the
confluence of the Mayne, and the purple heights of the Odenwald away in the distance.
Mayence is one of these old battered warrior towns that
enjoy the/ advantage of being knocked about, and battered,
and taken, and retaken in every war.  The old cathedral bears
marks of the -last siege, some of the towers being in ruins, and
the traces of a bombshell in the interior.  The town has two




JET. 39.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                      99
or three fine streets, and several huge rambling old German
palaces; some turned into hospitals, some into barracks for
soldiers, and some shut up and inhabited, I presumee, by ghosts
and hobgoblins.  Many parts of the town are very old with
time-worn and war-worn towers.  The place is now garrisoned
by German confederates, so that there are troops of different
powers here.  At the inn where I put up, and which is kept
by a fat, jolly, waggish old Frenchman, a great Bonapartist
in  his heart, there  is a table d'hote frequented by several
officers, Russian, Austrian, Prussian, &c.  I have dined here
on a visit I made some days since to Mayence, and was very
much pleased with the motley group, who were all acquainted
with each other, and full of conversation.  One of the pleasantest things in travelling on the continent is to meet with tabled'hotes of this kind in garrisoned towns.  You find at them
always a variety of strongly marked characters; men who have
led a rambling campaigning life, and seen a great deal of the
world.
Aug. 22d.-I have taken a bath at the old philosopher's,
who is quite an original; an author, a lawyer, a chemist, and
for aught I know, an alchermist, for he is poor and fanciful
enough to be one.  He lives in a huge old mansion, that has
once had some claims to magnificence, but it is now rather
rattish, and stands in  a silent, grass-groxwn  street.  Had I
known the old gentleman a little earlier, he would have given
me some excellent hints for nmy alchemist; as it is, I shall
turn hin  to account some way or other, and mean to study
him attentively.
I am quite pleased with my quarters.  The hotel is quite a
specimen of one of these frontier hotels, and abounds witl
characters.   * 




100                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1822.
It was from  the Hotel de Darmstadt here spoken
of, that the introduction to the Tales of a Traveller is
dated.  The author was thrown back in his recovery
after his arrival at Mayence, and was detained there
some time by indisposition, as stated in that introduction, nor was Katrina, the pretty daughter of mine
host, under whose tuition he conjugated ich liebe a
fiction, but the tales really were written partly in
Paris, and partly in England.  As, however, he tells
Peter, he was in hopes to have something under way
for spring publication, it is probable he attempted
some scribbling under the roof of the jolly publican,
John Ardnot, fiom which the fancy took him  to date
his lucubrations from that Hotel.
[To Mirs. Sarah Vatn Wart.]
MAYENCE, Sept. 2, 1822.
MY DEAR SISTER:
I despatched a very well-filled letter to you from this place
about ten days since.  I have now been here nearly a fortnight, but do not yet find myself in condition to travel. I have
been obliged to abandon the dry vapor baths, at least for the
present.  I found myself nearly overcome by them  two or
three times, and that they were followed by severe pains in
the legs for several hours, as if the muscles were contracted.
*:.~*.  -:~  *I am now convinced, though reluctantly, that this malady
has api internal origin, and arises from a derangement of the
system, and particularly of the stomach. The anxieties that I
suffered for three or four years in England used frequently to
affect my stomach, and the fits of study and literary application,




JET. 39.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   101
and the disuse of exercise to which I frequently subjected myself; and to which I had not previously been accustomed, all
gradually prepared the way for some malady, and perhaps the
one under which I at present suffer has prevented one of a
more dangerous nature.  I now foresee that it will take me
some time, and patience, and care to restore my system  to a
healthful tone; all these external applications are but palliafive; they relieve me from present pain and inconvenience, but
it must be by diet, by. gentle and slowly operating remedies, by
easy recreation and tranquillity, and moderate exercise of mind,
that I must gradually bring my constitution once more into vigorous activity, and eradicate every lurking evil.
I feel the value of life and health now in a degree that I
never did before.  I have always looked upon myself as a useless being, whose existence was of little moment. I now thinkl
if I live and enjoy my health, I may be of some use to those
who are most dear to me.
Notwithstanding the continuance of my complaint, I think
the change of country and climate has been of service to me.
The beautiful scenery among which I have lived of late, the
fine weather and the pure and healthful air of these parts have
had a most genial effect upon mind and body.  I do not know
when I have been more alive to the influence of lovely landscapes.  "'  I am most kindly attended by every one belonging to the hotel; am  quite one of the family of mine host,
and have daily lessons in French and German from one of his
daughters, la belle Katrina, a pretty little girl of sixteen who
has been educated in a convent.
I am leading a very idle life. I read considerably, but I
do not pretend to write; and my mind has complete holiday,




102                  LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1822.
so that it will be some time before I get another wodrk under
way.
Sept. 9th.-I returned last night from  a delightful tour of
three days.  The weather was so fine and I felt so comfortable
that I was tempted to visit some of the beautiful scenery of the
Rhine.  Accordingly I set off early one morning in company
with a young English officer in one of the passage boats of the
river, and made a voyage to Coblentz, about sixty miles down
the river, where we arrived late in the evening.  This took me
through some of the finest scenery through which I had passed
in my journey up the Rhine; I then saw it from  the land; I
now had an opportunity of seeing it from the water. I cannot
express to you how much I am  delighted with these beautiful
and romantic scenes.  Fancy some of the finest parts of the
Hudson embellished with old towns, castles and convents, and
seen under the advantage of the loveliest weather, and you
may have some idea of the magnificence and beauty of the
Rhine.        
[To Mrs. Sarch Van Wart.]
EEIDELBEUG, Sept. 18, 1822.
MY DEAR SISTER:
I despatched a long letter to you just as I was leaving
Mayence.  I broke up my encampment there on the 13th, and
set off for Frankfort about twenty miles distant, in company with
Captain Wemyss, a young English officer of the dragoons.
We reached Frankfort in the evening, but found some difficulty
in getting lodgings, for though the town is large, with enormous inns, yet the place is so crowded during the fair that
every house is full.' At one inn where we applied, we could
not get admittance; another which made up one hundred and




JET. 39.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                    103
eighty beds, had but one room  vacant-at length the servant
at the inn procured us two neat rooms at a shoemaker's,
which we took for three days at the rate of two Brabant
crowns a day; a huge price for Germany.  This fair of Frankfort is held twice a year, in spring and autumn, and lasts several weeks each time.  You must not judge of it, however,
from your fairs.  It is an assemblage of merchants and traders
from  all parts of Germany, Holland, France, &c., who meet
here to transact business, and trade on a large scale, while the
public squares and the quay along the river are built up with
streets of little wooden booths, shops of small traders, where all
kinds of wares and merchandise are exhibited.  In one of the
squares are a few shows and a temporary circus, but business
seems to be much more attended to than pleasure.  The whole
city swarms like a beehive, and the streets are like moving pictures, for the various dresses, the peculiar costumes of the peasants, the antique German buildings, and the intermingling of soldiery strolling about, continually put one in mind of the scenes
depicted in the works of the old painters.  In Frankfort, as
usual, every one dined at a table-d'hote about one o'clock, and
supped about nine in the evening.  The saloon of the hotel
where I ate, was very large, with a gallery for musicians,
who played during the repast.  Throughout Germany the tabled'h6tes are always attended by strolling musicians, singers,
&c., who perform  several tunes and then make a collection
from  the gentlelmen at the table (the ladies are always excepted), who pay each a piece of six kreutzers (i. e. about a
penny half-penny); sometimes the music is very good.  I like
the custom.  *  *  *
Frankfort is a beautiful town, and the only one that I have
seen in Germany that appears -to be thriving and increasing.




104                   LIFE AND LETTERS                     [1822.
In most of the German towns, in consequence of the breaking
up of the little German principalities and courts during the time
of Bonaparte, and the merging of these petty governments into
large states, you see continually the traces of former splendor;
the ruins of petty aristocracies; old palaces deserted and falling
into ruin; or turned into barracks, hospitals, &c. Frankfort, on
the contrary, is an independent commercial town; its palaces
are built by bankers and  merchants, and  are  continually
increasing.  Some of the new  streets are superb; but as
I have a taste for the antique, particularly for thle antique of
the middle (or gothic) ages, I was more interested by the old
parts of the town, particularly the part that faces along the
river Maine, with the old bridge, the ancient towers, and the
mountains of the Odenwald in the distance.  I met with great
civility at Frankfort from Mr. Kock, one of the first bankers
of the place, to whom  I happened to have a letter of introduction.  I was a little indisposed, however, during my stay,
and could not walk about much, or I should have enjoyed
highly this scene of bustle and throng.  After staying about
three days, I left Frankfort in company with Captain WVemyss,
and we came on leisurely in a voiture through Darmstadt to this
place, which is in the Duchy of Baden.  We came by what
is called the Berg Strasse, or mountain road, a route famous
for its beauty of scenery.  Our road lay along the foot of the
mountains of the Odenwald, which rose to our left, with
vineyards about their skirts, and their summits covered with
-ests, from  which  every now  and  then  peeped  out the
crumbling towers of some old castle, famous in German song
and story; to our right spread out a rich plain as far as the
eye could reach; with a faint line of blue hills marking the
course of the distant Rhine.  It is all in vain to attempt to




AET. 39.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING                       105
describe the beauty of these scenes-the continual variety of
romantic scenery that delights the eye and  excites the imagination, and the happy abundance that fills the heart.  The
exuberant quantity of fine fruit that I see around me, reminds
me of our own country.  The roads are bordered by orchards
of apples and pears, where the trees are so loaded that the
branclles have to be supported by stakes, lest they should
break.   In  some parts of the country, through  vwhich we
passed, they were getting in the vintage, which will be a
memorable one.  Men, women, and children, were busy in the
vineyards on the side of the hills; the road was alive with
peasants laden with baskets of fruit, or tubs in which  the
grapes were pressed.  Some were pressing the grapes in great
tubs or vats, on the roadside.  In the afternoon  there was
continual firing of guns, and shouting of the peasants on tlhe
vine hills, making merry after their labor, for the vintage is
the season when labor and jollity go hand in hand.   We
bought clusters of delicious grapes for almost nothing, as we
travelled  along, and I  drank  of tlhe newly  pressed wine,
which has the sweetness of new  cider.  The farther we advanced into the Duchy  of Baden, the richer the scenery
became; for this is a most fertile territory, and one where
the peasantry are remarkably well off.  The comfortable villages are buried in  orchards and surrounded by vineyards,
and the country people are healthy, well clad, good-looking
and cheerful.
WVith all my ailments and my lameness, I never have enjoyed
travelling more than through these lovely countries.  I do not
know whether it is the peculiar fineness of the season, or the
general character of the climate, but I never was more sensible
VOL. II.-5*




106                   LIFE AND LETTERS                      [1822.
to the delicious effect of atmosphere: perhaps my very malady
has made me more susceptible to influences of the kind.  I
feel a kind of intoxication of the heart, as I draw in the pure
air of the mountains; and the clear, transparent atmosphere,
the steady, serene, golden sunshine, seems to enter into my
very soul.  There seem  to be no caprices in  this weather.
Day  succeeds to  day of glorious sunshine.  The sun rises
briglht and clear, rolls all day through a deep blue sky, and
sets all night without a cloud.  There are no chills, no damps;
no sulky mist to take one by surprise, or mar the enjoyment
of the open air.
Awaiting his arrival at Heidelberg, which he had
expected  to reach  much  earlier, when  he set out on
his tour, Mr. Irving found the following letter.
From  Thomas Mbore.
August 5,1822.
MY DEAR IRVING:
I have been so deplorably lazy about writing to you, that
I fear I am now too late to catch you at Heidelberg, and lest
it should be the fate of my letter to die in the Dead Letter
office of a German town (" la plus morte mort " as Montaigne
calls it, that I can imagine), I will only venture two or three
hasty lines, to tell you that we are all quite well, and full of
delight at the idea of seeing you here in anutumn.  I have
taken up a subject for a poem  since I came to Passy, and
nearly  finished it-only  about twelve or thirteen  hundred
lines in all, which I shall publish singly.  Bessy has been for
some weeks (with that "John Bull," as Tom  now calls himself,) at Montmorenci, drinking the waters. I will just give you




AT. 39.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   107
an extract from a letter I received from her yesterday, because
I think it is about as good criticism as is to be had (for love
at least, whatever there may be for money), now-a-days.  "I
have just finished Bracebridge Hall, and am  more than ever
delighted with the author. How often he touches the heart! at
least mine."  I think you will agree with me that the modesty
of this last limitation is such as critics would do well to imitate
oftener.  "Parlez pour vous" would dispel the illusions of
the plurality exceedingly.
I want you very much here, and often express my wants
aloud, though I have not Mrs. Story to give her gentle echo
to them.  She complains in her last letter to Bessy, that she
has no longer any traces of your existence in the world.  I
could scribble a good deal more, now I have begun, but having
the fear of that Epistolary Death at Heidelberg before my eyes,
I must stop short, and am, my dear Irving,
Ever faithfully yours,
THOMAS MOORE.
At the receipt of this letter, Mr. Irving was undetermined which way to direct his course, whether to
return to Paris, where Mloore was expecting to welcome him; to make a tour in the country of the Black
Forest, or to strike into the interior of Germany and
pass his winter in  Dresden  or Vienna.  Not three
weeks before he set out on his tour, he had written to
Brevoort:
I shall leave London in two or three weeks for the continent, and so soon as I have reinstated my health, I shall
make a hasty tour, that I have been contemplating for several




o108                LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1822.
years past: when that is accomplished, I shall have one grand
obstacle removed to may return home; and will endeavor to
arrange my concerns so as once more to see my native land,
which is daily becoming dearer and dearer to my imagination,
as the lapse of time gives it all the charms of distance.
Yet so it was, with this purpose constantly in his
thoughts, years were to roll by before he should again
revisit its shores.




3ET. 39.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                    109
CHAPTER VI.
LETTERS TO MRS. VAN WrART-HEIDELBERG-BADEN-OLD CASTLE-SUBTERRANEAN APARTMENTS-SECRET TRIBUNAL-PAYS D'OR-STRASBOURG-ADIEU TO
THE RHINE-THE BLACK FOREST-ULMI-THE FIELD OF BLENI-IEIM1I-MUNICH
-EUGENE BEAUHARNOIS-TRANSLATION OF SKETCH\BOOK-BRACEBRIDGE HALL
-SALZBURG-VIENNA-THE YOUNG- NAPOLEON-CASTLE OF DUNSTEJN-CONVENT OF GOTTWIED.
I  BRING  together  some  further  extracts  from   his
letters to his sister, Mrs. Van Wart:
Sejt. 20th.-I have been three days at Heidelberg, and
have passed the time very pleasantly.  This is a famous little
old town, situated just at the entrance of a narrow  valley,
between  steep  mountains.  The Neckar, a clear, beautiful
river, flows by it, and between the mountains you look out over
a vast, rich plain, through which the Neckar winds its course
to the Rhine; and the distant horizon is bounded by Mont
Tonnere, and the high Vosges mountains that wave along the
frontiers of France.  On a hill which rises immecliately above
Heidelberg, are the ruins of the old castle, one of the most
splendid and extensive ruins in Germany.  There is a public
garden and fine shady walks laid out along the brow of the
bill, all about the old castle, from whence you have charming
views over the plain of the Rhine, and up the valley of tlle




110                  LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1822.
Neckar.   I  have  received  the most hospitable attentions
from  Count Jennison, who resides at this place, to whom
I.brought letters from  his friends in England.  He is a very
elegant and agreeable man, and speaks English as perfectly
as an Englishman.  He was Grand Chamberlain to the late
King of WVurtemberg, and was once minister to the Court of
St. James, where he married an English lady of rank.  His
daughters speak English, and the family is very amiable and
agreeable.  As it is the fashion here to dine at one o'clock,
we have long afternoons, which in this serene golden season,
are delightfiul.  Count Jennison has taken us out each afternoon in an open carriage, and shown us some of the loveliest
prospects in this enchanting neighborhood.  We have likewise
made the acquaintance of a young Silesian prince, and Count
Shoenberg, a young Saxon nobleman, who both reside in the
same hotel with us, so that we have plenty of society and
"amusement.  As this neighborhood abounds with old castles,
famous in legend and goblin tale, and the country is wonderfully
diversified by wild and rich scenery, you may imagine how delightful every little excursion must be.  I am  now  so much
recovered from my lameness, as to be able to take long walks
among the hills, and to scramble among the ruins of old castles,
and I find the exercise has a fine effect upon my general
health.  There is a good bathing house opposite the hotel,
where I take a tepid bath every morning, medicated with sulphuret of potasse, which I find to be extremely efficacious.
[To  irss. Sarah Tcn  TccWart.]
IIANSACK (BLACK FOREST), Oct. 8, 1822.
MY DEAR SISTER:
My last letter was written from  Heidelberg, which place I
left on the 30th September in company with C(al-pt Wemyss,




-A3T. 39.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                     1l
the same young officer of dragoons that has travelled with me
from  Mayence to  Frankfort, &c.  Our first clay's journey
brought us to Carlsruhe, the capital of the duchy of Baden, a
very pleasant, well-built little place, mostly new, with a fine
palace, public buildings, gardens, theatre, &c.  These little
German potentates have fine times of it, living on the fat of the
land in the midst of beautiful scenery.  They seem to have all
the sweets of sovereignty, without its cares and  troubles.
From thence we went to Baden, one of the most romantically
situated watering-places I have ever seen.  It is in a small
picturesque valley that runs like an inlet from  the broad plain
of the Rhine into the bosom  of the mountains.  Among the
pine-covered mountains that overlook the town are the ruins of
a grim old castle, and another protecting castle crests the hill
on which the upper part of the town is built. In this last old
castle there are long galleries of pictures of all the Electors of
Baden, and the heroes of its reigning family for several centuries back, that have a most martial appearance, clad to the
teeth  in  glistening  steel.  Underneath the castle we were
shown subterraneous apartments that equalled the fabrications
of novelists.  They were chambers where the secret tribunal
held its sittings, and where its victims were confined, and if
convicted, tortured and executed.  This was a mysterious association that, some centuries since, held all Germany in awe.
It was a kind of Inquisition that took cognizance of all kinds
of offences.  Its sittings were held in secret; all its movements
were wrapped in mystery.  Its members consisted of all ranks,
from the highest to the lowest; all sworn to secrecy; all forbidden to make known their being members; and all sworn by
the most imposing oaths to inflict the punishments decreed by
the tribunal, without regard to any tie of kindred or affection.




112                LIFE AND LETTERS                     [1822.
A  man, therefore, once condemned by the tribunal had no
chance of escape.  He knew not where to fly, or in whom to
confide; his bosom friend, his very brother might be a member
of the terrible tribunal, and, of course, obliged to be his executioner.  The subterraneous apartments of the old castle of
Baden was one of the places where the secret tribunal was
held.  The place was worthy of the institution.  You can
imagine nothing more dismal than the cells and dungeons of
which it was composed.  There was one vaulted room, black
with the smoke of tapers, in which the judges of the tribunal
had held their sittings.  Narrow  winding passages through
walls of prodigious thickness led to the dungeons of the prisoners and the places of torture.  All these were completely
shut up from the light of day, and the doors were formed of
immense blocks of stone that turned heavily on their pivots,
groaning as they moved.  There was one great pitfall, down
which, we were told, prisoners were precipitated after execution; but enough of this gloomy picture.
From Baden we continued on up.the rich valley, or rather
plain of the Rhine; away to our right, at a great distance,
waved the blue Vosges mountains on the frontier of France,
while near by on our left were the mountains of the Black
Forest, with now and then the ruins of an old castle among
the woods of birch and pine.  The road, as usual throughout
the Rhine country, ran along a level at the foot of the mountains.  The landscape became more fertile even than those
parts of the Rhine through which we had already passed.  We
had entered into that part of Suabia called the pays d'or (i. e.
the golden country) on account of its happy fertility. The road
was bordered by fruit trees, and ran through fields of grain, or
along vine-covered hills.  The peasants were all busy in the




JET. 39.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   113
fields, getting in their stock of potatoes and other vegetables.
The vintage was over, and every now  and then we passed
wagons bearing great pipes of new wine, with bunches of
flowers and streamers of ribbons stuck in the bung.  The
weather was serene and delightful, and nothing could be more
gratifying than the picture of cheerful industry rewarded by
abundance, which presented itself on every side.
We stopped at Kehl, a small village on the German side
of the Rhine, where we passed the night and left our carriage
and trunks, that we might not be incolmmoded by custom house
officers.  In the morning we took a hired carriage and drove
to Strasbourg, about a league off.  This is an important old
town on the frontiers of France and on the banks of the
Rhine; I assure you, I felt a kindly throb in finding myself
in the territories of the gay nation; and I had several strong
tugs of feeling that pulled me towards Paris.  However, I resisted them all, and having looked at the noble cathedral of
Strasbourg, and from its tower looked out over a magnificent
reach of country, watered by the Rhine, I turned my back
upon Strasbourg and France, and ordering post-horses at Kehl,
bade a long and reluctant adieu to my summer friend and companion, the Rhine.  It was really like parting with an old
friend when I took the last look at this majestic stream  about
which I had passed so many weeks; our road now lay up the
narrow valley of Kenseg that runs into the bosom of the Black
Forest.  I had bidden adieu to the gay borders of Germany
that divide it from France, and was now about to penetrate into
its interior.  The valley of Kenseg is one of the most romantic
and beautiful of the Black Forest; but unluckily for its verdant
beauties, we entered it just before dusk.  What we wanted
VOL. II.-(8)




114                  LIFE AND LETTERS                     [1822.
in beauty of scenery, however, was made up in wildness and
romance.  The uncertain effect of partial moonlight now and
then  breaking  from  among  clouds, was admirable among
these wild scenes.  Our road lay sometimes under steep hills
with overhanging forests of black pines; sometimes it crossed
and re-crossed the narrow  valley over wooden bridges with
streams rushing under them, and it was not until late that
we arrived at the village where I am now writing this letter.
I am now scribbling late at night in a little village in the
valley of Kenseg, in the heart of the Black Forest.  The inn
is such an one as is sometimes shewn on the stage, where benighted travellers arrive and meet with fearful adventures.
YWe were shewn into a great public room, wainscotted with
wood, blackened by smoke, in which were waggoners and
rustic travellers supping and smoking; a huge, rambling staircase led up to a number of old-fashioned wainscotted apartments.  The hostess is dressed in one of the antique costumes
of the country, and we are waited upon by a servant man in
a dress that would figure to advantage in a melodrama; and a
servant maid that is a Patagonian in size, and looks, as to costume, as if she had come out of the ark.  This little village is
composed of houses of wood and plaster.  It is in a narrow
part of the valley, with mountains about it covered with the
black forests of pine that have given the forest its name.  The
Kenseg, a wild mountain stream, runs through the valley. The
ruins of an old castle are perched upon a hill that rises just
above the village, and may be seen from  my window while I
am writing.  I can hear the owl hoot from  the ruins of the
castle, and the reply of some of his companions from the neighboring wood.  Good-night.
Ulm, Oct. 6th.-VWe arrived here last night. After pass



~T. 39.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   15
ing through the mountains of the Black Forest, we came down
into broad open plains, watered by the early windings of the
Danube, which we have traced from  its source among the
mountains.  The country became more completely German.
WVe found few, comparatively, that could speak French.  The
towns were antiquated in fashion; the people peculiar in costume.  At length we left the Duchy of Baden, and crossing
the little principality of Hohenzollern, we entered the kingdom
of NVurtemberg, and, late at night, or rather toward morning,
arrived at Uhn. Here we are in a huge, old-fashioned German
hotel, with long galleries, or corridors, decorated with paintings,
portraits, and stags' horns, and the windows lookilng out upon
the Danube.  To-morrow we resume our route, intending to
liake a bend through the kingdom of Bavaria, and so to travel
on to Vienna, where I shall make some stay.
Munichl, Oct. 14th.-After leaving Ulm we continued along
the Danube for the purpose of visiting the field of Blenheim,
where the great battle was fought in 1704, that gave such
splendor to the British arms, and reflected such glory upon
Marlborough. You know it was this battle that gave the name
to Blenheim  House, built by government for the Duke.  We
had fine weather as usual  and I had an excellent opportunity
of examining this famous battle-ground.  From Donanworth, a
village beyond Blenheim, we made a sudden bend, taking our
leave of the Danube for a season.' I must observe that this
river, already began to exhibit, some beautiful scenery, rambling
through very beautiful country, particularly between Bleinheim
and Donanworth. It was as yet but a moderate stream. However, I shall be on its banks again before arrivillg at Vienna,
and shall then find it wonderfully improved in size.  From
Donanworth we made a bend into the heart of the kingdom of




116                   LIFE AND LETTERS                      [1822.
Bavaria, and the second clay arrived at tlis place, which is the
capital, where we have been nearly a week.  This is a most
charming little capital.  WVith a population of only about fifty
thousand people, it combines more advantages than are to be
met with in cities of three times its size.  One of the finest
libraries in Europe, a magnificent theatre, an Italian opera, a
smaller theatre, splendid galleries of paintings, and princely
palaces.  There has been a grand frte on the king's birth-day,
which gave me a fine opportunity of seeing both the court and
the populace.  The king is a most amiable, wortly man, and
extremely beloved by his people.  It was quite an affecting
sight to see him  in public, surrounded by the multitude, without any guards to keep them off, and followed with acclamations
and blessings.  The royal family is very handsome; there are
several princesses.  I had a good view also of Eugene Beauharnois, tle stepson of Bonaparte.  He married a daughter of
the King of Bavaria, and is one of the most fortunate of Bonaparte's relatives and followers; for he has ever maintained a
character for honor and bravery, and now lives in opulence and
ease, with a superb palace, a charming   wife and family, beloved by his father-in-law, the old king, and esteemed by the
pul)lic.
Tills place is quite remarkable for its musical resources.
Mozart composed several of his best operas at Municll, and ever
since the place has lhad a musical turn.  The orchestra of the
theatre is admirable.  There is a female singer here, that to
my taste is preferable even to Catalani. WVe have music, morning, noon, and night, for there are three of the best military
bands that I have ever heard, and one or otler of them seems
to be continually parading the streets.  *'  Tiis place
is rather more sublject to clhangles and chills than otlher of tle




ET. 39.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                    117
southern parts of Germany, owing to its vicinity to the mountains of the Tyrol, which stretch along the horizon to the south,
and have their cragged summits already covered with snow.
To-morrow we shall resume our route for Vienna, going round
by the way of Salzburg to visit the salt mlines.  We shall
strike the Danube again at Lintz, and then continue along it,
through a most beautiful and interesting country, to Vienna.
e  *  I am happy to say that my health continues to improve,
and that I am gradually getting the better of my malady.  At
present I can walk about without any inconvenience, and indeed am on my legs almost the whole day.
When at Strasbourg, I saw in a bookshop a French translation of the Sketch Book, different from that I had in England,
and much superior, ornamented with plates.  I find that it lias
likewise been translated info German, and selections published
from it in various German periodical works.  A translation of
Bracebridge Hall is also about to be published at Berlin.   ^
Give my love to all the young folks and to the neighbors.
What lots of stories I shall have to tell when I get to Brummy
again.  *   - 
[To the Scame.]
VIENNA, Oct. 27, 1822.
MY DEAR SISTER:
-'4  *   Y   I  left Munich, in company withl  Captain
WVemyss, on the 17th, for Salzburg.  We travelled as before,
in an open carriage of Captain'Wemyss, with a calechle top,
which we could put up in case of bad weather.  We had
thus a fine view of the country on all sides, withl the benefit
of riding in the open air, which I think lhas had an excellent effect on my healtll.    *  -   -
It took us a day and a half to get to Salzburg.  The lat



118                   LIFE AND LETTERS                       [1822.
ter part of the road was very interesting.  WVe passed along
a beautiful lake, called the Chiem  Zee, or as they pronounce
it Kerm See, which lies just at the feet of high and picturesque
mountains, some of them  already tipped with snow.  In this
part of Bavaria the country people live on their farms, as
in England, which gives the country a much more cheerful
and populous lool  than  in  other  parts of the continent,
where the country is all naked plain, and the peasantry huddled together in villages.  The peasantry, however, are very
ugly;  indeed, since  I  have  passed  the  Black  Forest, I
have seen nothing of the comeliness among the country people
that I saw  on the Rhine, particularly the lower part of the
Rhine, from  Mayence downwards.   Before reaching  Salzburg, we passed the frontier barrier of Bavaria, and entered
tlle Austrian dominions.
Salzburg is one of the most romantic places, as to its situatlon and scenery, that I have ever beheld.  It is a little old
Archiepiscopal city, in a narrow  but beautiful valley; surrounded by high mountains, a branch of the Tyrolean Alps,
many of which are tipped with snow.  The Saal, a rapid
clear stream, rushes by the town.  A. huge old castle frowns
down upon it, from  a craggy height that rises immediately
fiom  the town, while on a height on the opposite side of the
river stands a venerable convent of Capuchins.  As Austria
is a country in which the Catholic religion holds still a powerfiul sway, the little city of Salzburg is well supplied with
convents, and the bells of these and the churches are ringing
to prayers almost every hour in the day.  The only variety
to this solemn steeple music, is a chime of bells in one of the
towers, which play a waltz three times a day, and I pre
sume all the street devotees are expected to dance to it.  The




EBT. 39.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                     119
season was not yet so far advanced as to destroy the beauty
of the landscape;  indeed  it seemed to  me as if the rich
yellow tints of autumn increased the effect of this wild mountain scenery, by  mingling  a  hue of melancholy  with  its
grandeur.   The heavy  mists, too, that prevail among  the
mountains early  in  the  mornings at this season, produced
splendid effects, as they gradually broke up and rolled away;
revealing crag after crag, mountain after mountain; and for
a long time involving the remote vistas of the mountains
in  obscurity.   The sun  always shone out toward  midday
with extreme - warmth, as if to revenge himself on the niist
that had tried to obscure him.  e  * -      *
In one of the  mountains near by Salzburg, there  are
famous salines or salt works, which we visited.  The whole
mountain is perforated and wrought into as many galleries
and passages as an ant-hill.  We were for a long time under
ground, descending great shafts, or being wheeled along subterranean passages on a kind of hand-wagon.  These mountain regions are fill of fable and elfin story; and I had some
wonderful tales told me which I shall keep in mind against
I  have another  maatch  at story-telling  with  the children.
There is one  great mountain that towers into  the clouds
close by Salzburg, which is called the Untersberg, which the
common people believe to be quite hollow, witl churches and
palaces inside; where the Emperor Charles V. and all his
army remain spell-bound.
After remaining between two or three days at Salzburg,
we resumed our journey,'t           *  *   travelled  all night,
and the next day about four o'clock, arrived safe at Vienna.
%              ^ 9     S *    *




120                  LIFE AND LETTERS                      [1822,
In  driving  through  the  town, they pass  young
Napoleon in a carriage and six.
T'Viennc, Xov. 10/h. —This letter has been lying by me
unfinished for a fortnight; for I have been so much occupied
in looking about, that I have had no time to write.  This is
one of the most perplexing cities that I was ever in.  It is
extensive, irregular, crowded, dusty, dissipated, magnificent,
and to me disagreeable.  It has immense palaces, superb galleries of paintings, several theatres, public walks, and drives
crowded with equipages; in short, every thing bears the stamp
of luxury and ostentation; for here is assembled and concentrated all the wealth, fashion, and nobility of the Austrian
empire, and every one strives to eclipse his neighbor.  The
gentlemen all dress in the English fashion, and in walking the
fashionable lounges you would imagine yourself surrounded by
Bond street dandies. The ladies dress in the Parisian mode, the
equipages are in the English style, though more gaudy;  with
all this, however, there is a mixture of foreign costumes, that
gives a very motley look to the population in ihe streets.
You meet here with Greeks, Turks, Polonaise, Jews, Sclavonians, Croats, Hungarians, Tyroleans; all in the dress of
their several countries; and you hear all kinds of languages
spoken around you.  The Emperor is at present in Italy, attending the Congress at Verona.  I have seen the other members of the Imperial family  several times at the theatre,
where they appear in the Imperial box, without any show,
nor any sensation on the part of the audience, as it seems
quite a common occurrence.  The most interesting member of
the family, however, was the young Napoleon, son of poor
Boney.  His  nother, now  called  the Archduchess  Marie




JET. 39.J          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                     121
Louise, was, as you may recollect, daughter of the Emperor
of Austria.  She is now  at Verona.  The young Napoleon,
or the Duke of Reichstadt, as he is called, is a very fine boy,
full of life and spirit, of most engaging manners and appearance, and universally popular.  He has something of Bonaparte in the shape of his head and the lower part of his
countenance'  Ills eyes are like  his mother's.   I have seen
him once in an open carriage, with his tutor.  Every one took
off his hlat as the little fellow passed.  I have since seen him at
the theatre, where lie appeared to enjoy the play with boyish
delight; laughing out loud, and continually turning to speak
to his more phlegmatic uncles, the other young princes.
A few days since. I made a most interesting tour of two
days to visit some of the scenery of the Danube, and particularly the ruins of the Castle of Durnstein, where Richard
Coeur de lion was confined.  You may remember the story
of his captivity, which is one of the most romantic in English
histor'y, and has been the theme of novels, poems, and operas.
He was one of the bravest monarchs that ever sat on
the English throne.  In returning from a crusade in the Holy
Land, lie was cast away in the gulf of Venice, and fearful of
falling into the hands of the King of France, lhe attempted to
travel across Germany in the disgtise of a pilgrim.  He was
discovered at Vienna by Leopold, Duke of Austria, who sold
him  to the Emperor of Germany.  He was confined in the
Castle of Durnstein between one and two years; tantalized
with hopes of being released, on paying an enormous ransom,
and with fears of being delivered captive to his bitter enemy,
the King of France-but I am wandering into a string of
ill-told historical anecdotes which you will find much better
VOL. IT. —c




122                   LIFE AND LETTER'1S                  11822.
related in any English history; though the great charm  of
his story has been given by poetry and romance.  He is thle
same monarch  who figures so gallantly in Walter Scott's
romance of Ivanhoe.
I was accompanied il my little tour by an agreeable
young Irish gentleman of the name of Brooke.  Though it
was in the month of November, yet the weather was serene
and beautifil.  WTe had that steady golden sunshine which is
peculiar to autumn.  The country, though nearly stripped
of foliage, had still enough of the lingering tints of autumn
to render it pleasing.  Our route for thle first day lay through
rather lonely scenes, where there was no high road; among
woods and high hills.  We visited the chateau of an Austrian
nobleman, situated  on  a  hill, with  its dependent village
gathered round its skirts, and  looking over a great extent
of sunny valley.  It had quite an air of solitary pride and
dominion; there  being not another residence of any consequence within sight.  As the family were absent, we had
an opportunity of ranging over the whole castle, which was of
great extent, with billiard rooms, and a saloon fitted up for
private theatricals.   The next morning we started before
daylight, and in a fog; after travelling for some time, day
dawned, but we were still involved in obscurity, and ascending
and descending hills and valleys, without being able to see
a hundred yards before us.  About seven o'clock, the sound
of a matin  bell gave us warning  that we were in  the
neighborhood of the convent of Gottwick, or Gottwied; one
of the most interesting objects in the course of our route.  It
is situated on the summit of a mountain that commands one
of the grandest prospects of the Danube.  We left the carriage at the foot of a steep ascent that forms the highest




MET. Sa. I         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                     123
part of the mountain, and set off for the convent on foot.  The
fog was still so thick that we could not see any thing of
the convent until we got close to it, when it seemed suddenly
to loomn  upon llS out of the mist; its vast buildings and lofty
towers looking dim  and shadowy, like a great palace of enchantnient, just risilng into existence.  As we approached we
heard the sound of the organ, and that mass was performing
in the chapel.  WVe found our way there, and entered a magnificent church, with  a remarkably rich  altar-piece.   After
mass, we entered the convent, and requested permission to
see the interior.  The superior, a round, sleek, jolly looking
friar, received us with great politeness, and being obliged to
attend  to  the duties of the convent, requested  one of the
young monks to attend us, who showed us the library, whicl is
very valuable, with' many rare manuscripts.  He also showed
us the cabinet of natural history, &c.  The convlent is of vast
extent;  superbly  built, very  wealthy, and very hospitable,
with cellars as well stored with old wine as the library with
old books.
From hence we. descended to the Danube, and crossing it
on a long bridge, we continued on to the old castle of Durnstein.  Here we passed some time exploring the ruins.  The
castle stands on the summit of a rocky height, among stern
moulntains.  The Danube winds below it, and you have a long
view up and down the river.  The scenery is grand and melancholy, and the story of the Lion-hearted Richard has given a
peculiarly romantic interest to the place.  Our return from
hence was through very beautiful country, frequently in view
of the Danube, and we did not reach Vienna until late at
night, highly satisfied witl our tour.
I must not omit to mention tlat I lately received a packet




124                  LIFE AND LETTERS                      [1822.
from  Mr. Storrow, containing three letters from  you, dated
Sept. 1, Sept..21, and October 7.  You must imagine how
gratifying they were to me.  They brought me at once into
your dear little family circle, and made me forget for awhile
that I was so far adrift from any home.  These little tidings of
the fireside, to a man that is wandering, are like the breezes
that now and then bring to the sea-beaten sailor the fragrance
of the land.  I feel most sensibly your affectionate solicitude
about my health.  I am happy to say I am  daily improving;
and in a little while I trust I shall have no more remains of
my complaint.  It no longer gives me any trouble   but I continue my foot-baths night and morning, while any traces of it
remain, for fear of a relapse; as I am conscious that my constitution is not yet actually what it should be.    *  -;
I am beginning to think of leaving Vienna.  I shalf probably stay a week longer and then take my departure for Dres.
den, which will be my winter quarters.  It is a more quiet and
intellectual city than this;  for here the people think only of
sensual gratifications.  There is scarcely any such thing as
literary society, or I may say literary taste in Vienna., Dresden, on the contrary, is a place of taste, intellect, and literary
feeling; and it is the best place to acquire the German language, which is nowhere so purely spoken as in Saxony.
Dresden is about three hundred miles fiom here by the shortest
road, which lies tllrough Moravia and Bohemia.  I think it
very probable that I shall make the journey alone, as there are
few persons travelling for pleasure so late in the season; and I
prefer travelling alone unless I can find a companion exactly
to my mind.




JET. 39.1          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                    125
CHAPTER VII.
FROM VIENNA TO DRESDEN-PRAGUE-PUTS UP AT HOTEL DE SAXE, DRESDENINTIMACY WITH AN ENGLISH FAMILY —MRS. FULLER'S IMPRESSIONS OF THE
AUTHOR-LETTER TO LESLIE-EXTRACTS FROM NOTE-BOOK-PRESENTATION AT
COURT-DINNER WITH THE ROYAL FAMILY-PRIVATE THEATRICALS-LETTER
TO MRS. VAN WART-LETTER TO PETER-BOAR HUNT-THE CONSPIRACYPLAYS SIR CHARLES RACKETT IN THREE WEEKS AFTER MARRIAGE-PETERNEW DISCOURAGEMENTS WITH THE STEAMBOATS.
EFORE  he left Vienna, the  author visited  the
Imperial library, where  he saw  the  MSS. of
Tasso's Jerusalem.  He has this note on the subject:
"I thought  I  saw  a  similarity  between  his handwriting and Lord Byron's; many alterations in MSS."
Itaving met with such  a travelling companion  as he
could wish in IMr. Willoughby Montague, a Lieutenant
in  the Royal Artillery, he  left Vienna for Dresden
on the 18th of November, intending to stop a few days
at Prague.   " I am  happy  to say," he writes to his
sister, "I have scarcely  any  traces left of my  complaint, but I  shall continue  to  take baths for some
time."
As his letters give no account of his journey from
Vienna to Dresden, I insert here a few of his travelling notes.




126                  LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1822.
Friday, Nov. 22d. A  little after six arrive at Pragueapproach to the town-moonlight on the walls —dry moat and
gateway-towers of churches dark-streets spacious-fine effect
of passing under the old gateways, with sentinels loitering
about, lanterns, &c.-put up at the Staat WVien-very civil
people-go  to  theatre-beautiful  moonlight  night —much
pleased with the theatre-spacious and cheerful-good scenery
-good dresses-good music.  The piece, a German translation of the Barber of Seville-the part of Rosina charmingly
played by a beautiful actress of the name of Mademoiselle Sontag-blue eyes, auburn hair, fine teeth, small mouth.  The part
of Figaro very well played.  The whole got up very well.
Mademoiselle Sontag is about to leave this for Vienna, where
she is engaged at a very high price.  Fine contrast after travelling through sombre mountains, country of boors, and rude
villages, to' arrive in the evening at a fine town, and in half an
hour be ushered into a splendid theatre.
Nov. 26th.-Leave Prague for Dresden in the same voiture
in which we came-two and a half days to Dresden.
N70ov. 28th.-Stop at Peterswald, frontier village of the Austrian empire-our passports examined, endorsed, and we permitted to proceed-enter Saxony-immediate change of the
roads for the better-excellent chausse-stop at frontier office
-questioned whether we have any merchandise, &c., and on
our answering in the negative, permitted to proceed without
further ceremony.  As we descend the mountain the weather
improves.  *  "  Extensive and pleasant view over the fields
of Saxony-hills away to the right, with gleams of the Elbedistant view of Dresden-cluster of spires and dome, like mere
shadows on the horizon-road continues excellent-neat white
mile stones-country more diversified and rural than Bohemia.




A'T. 39.         OF WASHINGTON IRVING. -12
Farm houses with enclosures and their dependent patches of
varied vegetation.  Pass through Pirna-castle on an eminence-shots and shot holes in walls of houses-beautiful evenning and sunset-scenery on the Elbe-distant hills cheerful
from evergreens-rosy gleams on the still water, with fishing
boats-as the day closes the full moon shines out from among
clouds, which gradually draw off and leave her in full splendor
in a deep blue sky-fine effect as we approach Dresden-moonshine brings out white buildings, steeples, domes, &c. Enter
and drive through tall, spacious streets, though dark-open into
broad moonlight squares of fine houses-fountains, churches
-put up at Hotel de Saxe.
In  this little city, where he  remained  for  six
months, the author was destined to find a delightful
residence.  His literary reputation had preceded him.
IIe met an  old  acquaintance here in Morier, the
British Minister, whom  he had known as Charge at
Washiington, in 1811, and through him  he soon found
himself mingling familiarly with the diplomatic corps,
who formed a sort of social brotherhood.  Here he
also met for the first time, an English family by the
name of Foster, with.whom  he became extremely intimate, and his interigurse with whom  he remembered
with lasting interest.  Mrs. Foster was a lady of rank,
the daughter of Lord Carhampton, and had been for
some time residing in Dresden. for the education of
her children.   Her house soon became a home to
him.  One of the daughters, in a letter addressed to
him  long years afterwards, says of this period: "You




128                  LIFE AND LETTERS                     [1822.
formed a part of our daily life."  I am  permitted to
transcribe a letter from  another daughter, which gives
her charming impression of his character, as exhibited
at this  period  of familiar intercourse.   The letter,
it will be seen, bears date after the author's death,
and was addressed to me in reply to an application
for his correspondence with the family.
TIIORIIAUGII RECTOEY, WANSFO-RD,
NorITAMPTONSHIRE, March 10, 1860.
DEAR SIR:
I have sent a few extracts from  Mr. Irving's letters that I
thought were characteristic, or might be generally interesting,
but only a few, for he expressed so strong a desire that his correspondence should be strictly private, that I have only chosen
those that I think he would not have disliked being made
public, or I should feel as if I had violated the sacred confidence of a friendship so valued.  The passages I have sent
give an idea of his life in Dresden.  Sought after by all in the
best society, and mingling much in the gay life of a foreign
city, and a court where the royal family were themselves sufficiently intellectual to appreciate genius; but really intimate
with ourselves only, and to such a degree that it gives me a
right to judge of some points in his character.  He was thoroughly a gentleman, not merely externally in manners and
look, but to the innermost fibres and core of his heart.  Sweettempered, gentle, fastidious, sensitive, and gifted with the
warmest affections, the most delightful and invariably interesting companion, gay and full of humor, even in spite of occasional fits of melancholy, which he was however seldom subject
to when with those he liked-a gift of conversation that
flowed like a full river in sunshine, bright, easy, and abundant.




.ET. 39.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING                  129
IHe stayed at Dresden till we left, and then accompanied us on
our return home, even into the packet-boat,' and left us in the
channel.' That was not happily our last parting; he visited us
in England, and I saw a good deal of him in London afterwards; but the farewell in that open boat, with the looks of
regret on all sides, seemed the real farewell, and left the deepest
impression.  The picture he received in Paris was the little
miniature you mention.         I am, dear Sir,
Yours very truly,
EMILY FULLER.
You are quite welcome to make any use of my letter that
you please.  It is a very faint testimony of a real friendship.
The " picture" referred  to  at the  close of this
beautiful tribute to  the departed, was a miniature
copy of the Head of Hlerodias, painted by Mrs. Fuller
from  the Dresden gallery, and which  has been  for
years suspended from  the walls of Sunnyside.  " I
treasure it,' says the author in a letter to Mrs. Fuller,
a few years before his death, "as a precious memorial of those pleasant days."  The extracts from  Mr.
Irving's letters which she forwards will find a place
hereafter.
The first letter written  by Mr. Irving  after his
arrival at Dresden, was the following:
[To C. R. Leslie.]
DRESDEN, Dec. 2, 1822.
MY DEAR LESLIE:
I wrote to Newton from Munich, and had hoped before this
to have had a reply; but have been disappointed. I am very
VOL. II.-6*       (9)




130                 LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1822.
anxious to hear from you all, and to know what you are still
doing.  For my part, my whole summer has been devoted to
travelling, gazing about, and endeavoring to acquire a good
state of health, in which latter I am happy to say I have in a
great measure succeeded.  By dint of bathing, and a little attention to diet, I have conquered the malady that so long rendered me almost a cripple; and the exercise, change of air, and
refreshment of spirit incident to travelling, have operated most
favorably on my general health.  Since I wrote to Newton, I
have been among the Salzburg mountains; then by the way
of Lintz to Vienna, where I remained nearly a month; then
through part of Moravia and Bohemia, stopping a few days at
the fine old city of Prague, to this place, where I mean to
winter.  How I should have liked to have you as a travelling
companion throughout my summer's tour.  You would have
found continual exercise for the pencil, and objects of gratification and improvement in the noble galleries that abound in the
principal German cities.  I shall now take a master and go to
work to study German. If I can get my pen to work, so much
the better; but it has been so long idle that I fear it will take
some time to get it in a working mood. I hope you have made
some more designs for my works, and that the engravings are
finished of those that were in hand.  Take care to get for me
Allston's design for the " Judgment of WVouter Van Twiller,"
and endeavor, if possible, to get all the originals into your
hands.  HIow do you come on in housekeeping?  Have you
got to new  and comfortable quarters?  How often have I
thought of you, in exploring some of these old German towns,
where you might have a wing of a deserted palace almost for
nothing.  Such glorious painting rooms, that might be blocked
up or pulled to pieces at your humor   The living, in fact, is




2ET. 39.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   131
wonderfully cheap in many of the finest cities of Germany. In
Dresden, for example, I have a very neat, comfortable, and
prettily furnished apartment on the first floor of a hotel; it
consists of a cabinet with a bed in it, and a cheerful sitting
room that looks on the finest square.  I am offered this apartment for the winter at the rate of thirty six shiElings a month.
Would to Heaven I could get such quarters in London for any
thing like the money.  I shall probably remain here until the
spring opens, as this is one of the pleasantest winter residences,
and peculiarly favorable for the study of the German language,
which is here spoken in its purity.  Which way I shall direct
my wanderings when I leave this, I cannot say; I find it is
useless to project plans of tours, as I seldom follow them, but
am apt to be driven completely out of my course by whim or
circumstance.  Do write to me, and direct your letters " poste
restante, Dresden."  Let me hear all the news you can collect
of our acquaintances, and tell me what you are all doing.
Have the Bollmans left Paris and returned to America?  How
goes on Luke's picture of Greenwich?  I presume it is nearly
finished.  What subjects have you in hand, or what in view,
&c., &c.?  I sent you word in my letter to Newton that I
wished you, when the plates illustrating my works were published, to get some sets fiom Murray for me, and send them to
Mr. Van WVart, to be forwarded to my brother in America;
one set to be given to Mr. Brevoort of New York.
I find by a letter from  my brother, that he met with that
worthy personage, Mr. Peter Powell, at Rouen, and that they
had a world of pleasant conversation together.
Farewell, my dear boy.
Give miy hearty remembrance to the " Childe," Father




132                  LIFE AND LETTERS                   [1822.
Luke, and all the rest of the fraternity, not forgetting my excellent and worthy friend, Peter Powell.
Yours ever,        W. I.
His note-book, which is in pencil, and but partially
distinct, will give us some further particulars of his
mode of life in Dresden.  I begin with the record of
his presentation  at this most peculiar and most antiquated of all the Courts of Europe.
Dec. 22d.-Sunday-presented at court by Mr. Morierpresentation took place about twelve o'clock.  First, at Prince
Antoine's apartments, where I was presented to Prince Antoine and Prince Max, the king's brothers.  Then to Prince
Max's sons, Prince Frederick and Prince John, then the Princess of Austria married to Prince Frederick, the Princess
Amelia of Bavaria lately married to Prince John, and the
Princess Amelia, daughter to Prince Max and sister to Queen
of Spain.
The Princess Amelia is a little of a blue-stocking-spoke
to me about my works-asked about America-our scenery,
&c.  Had been aboard one of our ships of war at Naples
(probably the Franklin), and was much astonished at it.
Princess of Bavaria very amiable, engaging countenancemuch beauty-Prince John talked to me in English about my
works-Princess Max and Antoine full of boho7immizie.
From Prince Antoine's we went, by galleries and corridors,
to the king's apartments, where we had to wait some time in
a cool saloon.  A'Vhen the king entered and went round the
circle, I was introduced, and he spoke to me very flatteringly
about my works.




-ET. 39.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                    133
Dec. 23c. —Walked out with Col. Livius, who is full of the
project of private theatricals —met Trotter and Butler-went
together to Mrs. Foster's, where the colonel interested the
young ladies in his plans.
Dec. 25th..-Went to court.  King asked me several questions about America-mode of travelling there-thought the
steamboats dangerous.
Dec. 29th.-Presented at court to the queen and princess
royal-queen very affable  the  princess plump  and goodhumored-court held about twelve o'clock-after court go to
Mrs. Foster's-rehearse.
Evening.-A  soiree at Prince Frederick's; all the royal
family there except the king and queen-had considerable conversation with Prince Frederick and John-Prince John asked
me if it was true that in America we had no servants-I assured him that we had servants as in Europe, the only difference was that we had bad servants.
Jcanuacry 1, 1823.-In the miorning, half-past six o'clock,
hear the military music go by -half-past nine went to courtlevee of the princes and princesses to receive the congratulations of the day  every body in full gala dress-Princess
Amelia looked very lovely.
Ocean of courtiers through which I had to wade to get into
the presence chamber-court dresses scarlet, with profusion of
gold lace.
Halcf-pctst 12.-Levee of queen-old lady richly dressed
with fine diamonds-asked Scott [the son of Sir WValter] when
his father would come-said he would faire ses Delices-much
joking on the subject.
Six o'clock in the evening.-Grand assembly at court in the
saloon-ladies and gentlemen in grand toilette-large halls and




134                   LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1823.
anterooms —king, queen, and princesses go round and speak to
the company-then the royal family and the foreign ministers
and ladies seat themselves at card tables, and the company go
round and bow  to each table- the whole ends a little after
eight o'clock-court livery  of nobility, scarlet and  goldCountess Palffy [wife of the Austrian minister] in beautiful
Hungarian dress, with train of diamonds.,tanuary 3d.-At home all the morning writing letters.
*  *  AAfter dinner go to Mrs. Foster's, where Col. Livius
read part of the Rivals-fell asleep.
January 5th, Su.nday.-Went to court at quarter past
twelve o'clock-court held at Prince Antoine's apartments, and
afterwards the king's-at Prince Antoine's I was spoken to by
each of the royal family present, and at the king's by his majesty-from the king's levee went by invitation to the queen's
apartments, being to dine at the royal table-other guests were
the Prince Menzikoff, Count Blome, Count              (a Pole),
Capt. Scott, Capt. Butler, Mr. Price.
Dinner served up in room where there is very good Gobelin tapestry-sat at dinner between  Count Vilzthurm  and
a, Russian.  The latter a very amiable, agreeable
young man of great possessions-speaks English-invited me
to visit him at his place in the Crimzea.
Dinner lasted an hour-not remarkably good-no variety
of wines-each man had his little flask of wine and another of
water, with an enormous wine glass-dinner quiet and dullafter dinner adjourned to drawing-room —took coffee-talked a
little with the royal family, who then bowed and retired-we
did the same.
January 7th, evening.-Ball at Count Saxburgh's, the Bavarian minister, in honor of the nuptials of Prince John and




E T. 39.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   135
Princess of Bavaria-staircase lighted up and decorated with
evergreens, so as to form  a green alley-present, Prince Antoine, Princes Max, Frederick, and John, Princess Royal,
Princess Augusta, Princess, and Princess Amelia of
Bavaria-elegant supper-company danced until three o'clock
-curtain caught fire-pulled it down, and received the thanks
of the princes-made an arrangement with the Forestmeister
to accompany him to the chase.
January  20th, Mlonday.-Morning, German lessons-rehearsal at Mrs. Foster's-dine at Mrs. Williams.  *  *  In
the evening call with Capt. Butler at General Canicof's-then
to the Baron Lowenstein-p-leasant family-ladies speak English-present, a Polish count of eighteen accomplishmentsruddy face-flaxen hair-bright Phmebus or glorious Apollo
look-has written a play which was damned.
Thursday, 23d.-Pass the morning at home -studying and
writing.  Qt.? Does not the continent continually present pictures of customs anid manners, such as formerly prevailed in
England?  The king's chasse at Dresden is quite a picture of
ancient hunting in Queen Elizabeth's reign.  The table d'h6te
at Heidelberg, Munich.  Mayence, &c., was the old host's table
in England.  The manners of the guests are similar-the
mixture of civil and military at their tables.  The soldiers who
have been in Russia, Egypt, &c., may vie with the crusaders.
January 29th -Dined at home at one o'clock-sat for my
likeness to Vogel [a portrait painter who had solicited it].  In
the evening went to ball at Prince Antoine's-present, the
king, queen, and royal family, the second and third sons of the
King of Prussia —talked with the youngest-a fine young man
-danced a whimsical dance called de Gross Vader-danced
also an Ecossais-partners, the two young Countesses de Loos.




136                  LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1823.
February 4th.-At home all the morning studying-dine
at three o'clock at Count Lowenstein's-at dinner met Count
Blankinser? (glorious Apollo)-stories of ghosts-Miss Lowenstein told me that the people of Livonia, from  whence she
comes, are extremely superstitious, and believe in elfs, &c., &c.
Februarcy 11th.-At home studying and trying to write.
*   Inevening at six o'clock go to Court ball-great crowd
-fine  dresses-populace admitted as spectators-make the
room very hot -breaks up about half past ten.
il/ednesclay, 19th.-At home all the morning writing-pay
a visit to General Canicof and to Mr. Bottiger-dine by myself
— in evening go to the theatre and see the Italian operaCyrus in Babylon, one of Rossini's worst-after theatre go to
Mrs. Foster's, and sit there, reading and gossipping until near
one o'clock.
The  following  letters  give firther and  curious
pictures of his life in this city.
[To lirLs. Sarah  CVan T;lrart.]
DRES DEN, March 7, 1823.
MY DEAR SISTER:
*' *  My winter in Dresden has been extremely agreeable.  I have become quite at home among the good people, and
am invited to every thing that is going on in the world of fashion
and gaiety.  The old court has particularly pleased me from
its stiff old fashioned formalities, and buckram  ceremonies.
I have been treated uniformly with the most marked attention,
by all the members of the royal family, and am in great favor
with the old queen.  There is a singular mixture of state and




ET. 39.]          OF WASHINGT'ON IRVING.                   137
familarity in some of the court feftes.  Tliere have been for
instance, several court balls given by the royal faimily.  At
those given by the king, the common people are admitted as
spectators, and rows of seats are erected for them  on each
side of the great saloon in which the company dance.  Here
then you see the nobility and visitors of the court, in full
court dresses, dancing in the centre of the saloon, while on
each side are long banks of burly faces wedged together, men,
women, and children, and gazing  and curtseying as at a
theatre.  As the court dances are not always  the most dignified, one would think this opportunity  of seeing royalty
cutting capers, would be enough to destroy the illusion with
which it is surrounded.  There is one romping dance called
the Grandfather," something in the style of Sir Roger de
Coverly, which generally winds up the balls, and of which the
princes and princesses are extremely fond.  In this I have
seen the courtiers of all ages capering up and down the saloon
to the infinite amusement of the populace, and in conformity
to the vagaries of the dance, I have been obliged to romp
about with one of thle princesses as if she had been a boarding
school girl.    *: 
I wish I could give you a good account of my literary
labors, but I have nothing to report.  I anm merely seeing and
hearing, and my mind seems in too crowded and confused a,
state to produce any thing.  I am  getting very familiar with
the German languag e; and there is a lady here who is so
kind as to give me lessons every day m Italian [Mrs. Foster],
which language I had nearly forgotten, but which I am  fast
regaining.  Another lady is superintending my French [Miss
Emily Foster], so that if I am  not acquiring ideas, I am  at




138                  LIFE  AND LETTERS                     [1823.
least acquiring a variety of modes of expressing them  when
they do come.  *     *   
Give my love to Mr. Van Wart and to all the dear young
folks.  How I long to see themn  all once more.  I shall have
a world to talk about, when I once more resume my corner
on the sofa.       
[To Peter Irving.]
DRESDEN, March 10, 1823.
MY DEAR BROTHER:
What a time have I suffered to pass by without writing
to you.  I can give no excuse for it but the wretched and
unsatisfactory one, of continual procrastination, and too much
distraction and dissipation of mind; but I know you to be
indulgent in these cases, and not to consider a casual career
of dissipation among the crying sins.  I have been passing
a very agreeable, a. very idle, but I trust after all, a very
profitable winter  in  Dresden;  for  though  I  have  done
nothing with my pen, and have been tossed about on tlle
stream  of society, yet I console myself with the idea that I
have lived into a great deal of amusing and characteristic
information;   which after all, is perhaps the best way of studying the world.  I have been most hospitably received and even
caressed in this little capital, and have experienced nothing
but the most marked kindness from  the king downwards.
My reception, indeed, at court has been peculiarly flattering,
and every branch of the royal family has taken occasion to
show me particular attention, whenever I made my appearance.  I wish you were here with me to study this little
court; it is just the thing that would delight you.  It is one
of the most formal and ceremonious in Europe, keeping up
all the old observances that have been laid aside in other




JET. 39.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                    139
courts.  The king is an excellent old gentleman, between
seventy and eighty, but a staunch stickler for the old school.
He has two brothers, Prince Max and Prince Antoine, and
the trio are such figures as you see in the prints of Frederick
the Great.   Prince Max is one of the most amiable old
gentlemen I have ever met with; his countenance and manners peculiarly  benevolent;  he  has two  sons, Frederick
and John (the former will one day inherit the throne), and
two daughlters, the youngest of whom  is the present QueeCi
of Spain.  Prince Antoine, the other brother of the king,
is a brisk, lively little gentleman; very religious. but withal.
as great a hunter as Nimrod, and as fond of dancing as King
David.  He married a sister of the Emiperor of Austria, an
old lady that is a complete picture of the dames of the old
school.  Prince Antoine has always shown a great fancy for
me, and I believe  I owe much of my standing in the old
gentleman's favor. from  dancing French quadrilles.  I have
dined with the king, and been at a number of balls and soirees
given by the different members of the royal family; as at
these balls every one must be in uniform  or court dress, they
are very showy.
Among the other institutions which the king keeps up,
is a grand hunting establishment in the old style.  As this
is the only place in Europe where any thing of the kind is
maintained in the ancient manner, I have been very much
interested by it.  The king has his forest masters; his chasseurs, piqueurs, jagers, &c., &c.  There are large forests appropriated to the chase, where deer and hoars are preserved;
and the country abounds with game.  I have followed the king
twice to the boar hunt; the last time we had a fine run of
upwards of two hours. The king was followed by a numerous




140                  LIFE AND LETTERS                     [1823.
hunting retinue, all clad in hunting costumes of green.  The
chctsse was in a forest, which is traversed by roads, lanes, and
paths in every direction; and the noise of the hounds and
horns, the sight of huntsmen dashing about through the forest
in every direction, and of the old king and his retinue galloping along the alleys of the forest, formed altogether one of
the most animating scenes I have ever witnessed.  The boar
was not overpowered until he had killed one dog and wounded
several.
Finding how much I was interested in their cliasse, the
old queen (who has always shown me great kindness) was
so obliging as to order another kind of chasse, that I might
see how the wild boars were taken in nets; which was very
amusing, but by no means so animating and interesting as the
clhcsse on horseback.
Among the other amusements of the winter, we have had
a little attempt at private theatricals.  These have been at
the house of Mrs. Foster, an English lady of rank, who has
been residing here for a couple of years.   She has two
daughters, most accomplished and charming girls.  They occupy part of a palace, and in a large saloon a little theatre was
fitted up, the scenery being hired fiom a small theatre;   and
the dresses  fromn  a masquerade warehouse.  It was very
prettily arranged, I assure you.  vWe first tried Tom  Thumb,
which, however, went no firther than  a dressed rehearsal,
in which I played the part of King Arthur, to IMrs. Foster's
Dollalolla; and the other parts were supported by some of
the English who were wintering in Dresden.   There was
then an attempt to get up a little opera, altered from  the
French ]by Colonel Livius, a cousin of MArs. Foster, and some
such a character as I have described in Master Simon in




.ET. 39.]          OF WASHI NGU TON IRVING.                  141
my last work.  The colonel, however, who is a green-room
veterar, and has written for the London theatres, was so
much of. a martinet in  his managerial discipline, that the
piece absolutely fell through from  being too much managed.
In the mean time a few of the colonel's theatrical subjects conspired to play him a trick, and get up a piece without his knowledge.  We pitched upon the little comedy of Three TTeeks
after _iclrr''age, which I altered and arranged so as to leave
out two or three superfluous characters.   I played the part
of Sir Charles Rackett;  Miss Foster, Lady Rackett; Miss
Flora  Foster, Dimity;  Mrs. Foster, Mrs. Druggett;  and
a young officer by the name of Corkran, the part of Mr.
Druggett.   You  cannot imagine  the amusement this little
theatrical plot furnished us.  We rehearsed in Mrs. Foster's
drawing-room, and as the whole was to be kept a profound
secret, and as Mrs. Foster's drawing-room is a great place of
resort, and  as  especially  our  dramatic  sovereign, Colonel
Livius, was almost an inmate of the family, we were in continued risk of discovery, and had to gather together like a
set of conspirators.   We, however, carried  our plot into
execution  more successfully than commonly falls to the lot
of conspirators.  The colonel had  ordered a dress rehearsal
of his little opera: the scenery was all prepared, the theatre
lighted up, a few  amateurs admitted: the colonel took his
seat before the curtain, to direct the rehearsal.  The curtain
rose, and out walked Mr. and Mrs. Druggett in proper costume.   The little colonel was perfectly astonished, and did
not recover himself before the first act was finished; it was
a perfect explosion to him.  We afterwards performed the
little comedy before a full audience of the English resident
in Dresden, and of several of the nobility that understood




142                  LIFE AND LETTERS                   [182i.
English, and it went off with great spirit and success.  We
are now on the point of playing The WYtonder, which I have
altered and shortened to suit tie strength of the company, and
to prune off objectionable parts.  In this, I play the part of
Don Felix, to Miss Foster's Violante.  She plays charmingly;
the part of Colonel Briton I have had to alter into a British
captain of a man-of-war, to adapt it to the turn of the actor
who is to play it, viz.: Captain Morier, of the Navy, brother
of the British Minister.  I have dwelt rather long on this
subject because I know you relish matters of the kind.
While Washington  was thus passing  his winter
most agreeably, and living into a knowledge of men
and manners, which he hoped to turn to literary account, the brother, to whom  his letter was addressed,
was still struggling  with  new  difficulties connected
with the steamboats.  " Prospects are not flattering,"
writes the unrepining Peter from  Havre, to his sister
in America (Mrs. Paris);' but this is a round rolling
world, and it will be hard indeed if a'gleam  of sunshine will not at last fall on the spot on which I am
stationecl."   The  conclusion  of Washington's letter
shows that in the midst of all his enjoyments, he was
never forgetful of his fraternal loyalty.
I enclose you a first and second of exchange for one hundred pounds sterling, which I beg you to use as frankly as I
should do.  I am sorry to find the steamboat does not answer,
and I really think it is losing time and trouble to prosecute the
matter any further.  *  - 




.ET. 39.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                    143
At all events, don't suffer yourself to be discouraged.  I
will join you some time in the course of this year, and then
between us we will make the pot boil briskly
In a previous letter in August, he had written to
Peter, when  he seemed to  be losing his last chance
in fortune's wheel
I am glad to find that you are in good spirits.  Never fear
about the future.  Our means will be gradually accumulating,
and when a man has a little money in hand, he can hold up his
head and command fortune.  Opportunities of profit always increase in proportion to means.  One good thing is in your
favor; you know how to enjoy life on a little, and I'll engage
that that little at least shall not be wanting.  Whatever I can
do towards your comfort or prosperity is but a scanty return for
the favors and obligations you have h]eaped upon me since
childhood.  Yours has been a life of practical generosity, of
active benevolence and kindness, and it would be hard indeed
if you did not reap some trifling harvest from  the good seed
you have so liberally sown.  All that I can do is feebly to
follow the generous example you have set.  WVhen you were
in prosperity, you made it a common lot between us; so it
shall remain as far as our situations and pursuits permit.  Let
there be one main end in view, which I trust we shall accomplish before any great length of time-the securing for each of
us a little annual certainty wherewith to buy bread and cheese,
then we can trust to fortune for thle oil and wine.




14: 4                  LIFE AND LETTERS                        [1823.
CHAPTER VIII.
LETTER TO LESLIE-EXTRACTS FRO[M NOTE-BOOK-PERFORMANCE OF DON FELIX
IN THE WONDER-BIRTHDAY TABLEAUX- PRESENTED TO THE QUEEN OF
BAVARIA-FINED FOR FIRING A PISTOL-ITALIAN, FRENCH, AND GERMAN
STUDIES-LINES TO MISS B. FOSTER, ON IIER BIRTHDAY-LEAVES DRESDEN
ON A TOUR WITH CAPTAIN COCKBURN TO THE GIANT IMOUNTAINS-DETAINED
AT PRAGUE BY THE ILLNESS OF HIS COMPANION-EXTRACTS FROM LETTERS TO
MRS. FOSTER-RETURNS TO DRESDEN-JOURNEY FROM DRESDEN WITH MRS.
FOSTER AND FAMILY —STORM~ -ADVENTURE-EXTRACTS FROMI LETTER TO
PETER-ARRIVES AT PARIS.
iTo C!. R. Leslie.]
DRESDEN, March 15,1823.
I HAVE just been seized with a fit of letter writing, after
having nearly forgotten how  to use my pen, so I take the
earliest stage of the complaint to scribble to you.  I had hoped
to receive. a gratuitous letter from you before this, but you are
one of those close codgers who never pay more than the law
compels them.  I am  extremely sorry to hear from  Newton
that he has been so ill, though I am  by no means surprised at
it, as he played all kinds of vagaries with a constitution naturally delicate.  I trust this fit of illness will teach him the necessity of daily and regular attention  to exercise  and diet:
which all the advice in the world will not beat into a young
man's head. 
There is more time lost by these daily attempts to gain
time than by any thing else; and he who will endeavor to




ET. 39.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                    145
cheat his health out of an hour or two a day in extra fasting,
or extra application, will in the end have to pay days and
weeks for those hours.
How often I have wished for you and Newton during the
last eight or nine months, in the course of which I have been
continually mingling in scenes full of character and picture.
The place where I am now passing my time is a complete
study.  The court of this little kingdom of Saxony is, perhaps,
the most ceremonious and old-fashioned in Europe, and one
finds here customs and observances in full vigor that have long
since faded away in other courts.
The king is a capital character himself.  A  complete old
gentleman  of the ancient school, and very tenacious in keeping
up the old style.  He has treated me with the most marked
kindness, and every member of the royal family has shown me
great civility.   Vhat would greatly delight you is the royal
hunting establishment, which the king maintains at a vast expense, being his hobby.  He has vast forests stocked with
game, and a complete forest police, forest masters, chasseurs,
piqueurs, jigers, &c., &c.  The charm of the thing is, that all
this is kept up in the old style; and to go out hunting with
him, you might fancy yourself in one of those scenes of old times
which we read of in poetry and romance.  I have followed
him thrice to the boar hunt.  The last we had extremely good
sport.  The boar gave us a chase of upwards of two hours, and
was not overpowered until it had killed one dog, and desperately wounded several others.  It was a very cold winter day,
with much snow on the ground; but as the hunting was in a
thick pine forest and the day was sunny, we did not feel the
cold.  The king and all his hunting retinue were clad in an
VOL. II.-7        (10)




146                 LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1523.
old-fashioned hunting uniform of green, with green caps.  The
sight of the old monarch and his retinue galloping through the
alleys of the forest, the jagers dashing singly about in all directions, cheering the hounds; the shouts; the blast of horns; the
cry of hounds ringing through the forest, altogether made one
of the most animating scenes I ever beheld.
I have become very intimate with one of the king's forest
masters, who lives in a picturesque old hunting lodge with
towers, formerly a convent, and who has undertaken to show
me all the economy of the hunting establishment. lWhat glorious groupings, and what admirable studies for figures and
faces I have seen among these hunters.
By this time your painting of " Autolycus " must be nearly
finished.  I long to have a description of it from Newton.  Do
tell me something about it yourself.  Have you thought of a
subject for your next? and have you entirely abandoned the
scene of Shakespeare being brought up for deer-stealing?  I
think it would be a subject that you would treat with peculiar
felicity, and you could not have one of a more general nature,
since Shakespeare and his scanty biography are known in all
parts of the world.  Upon my soul, the more I think of it, the
more I am convinced it is a subject that you might make a
masterpiece of; it is one you should paint at least as large as
your " May Day," and introduce a great number of figures.
Do think of it.  You might make a great impression by such
a picture.
I have done nothing with my pen since I left you, absolutely nothing! I lave been gazing about, rather idly perhaps,
but yet among fine scenes of striking character, and I can only
hope that some of them may stick to my mind, and furnish me
with materials in some fiture fit of scribbling.




JET. 39.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  147
I have been fighting my way into the German language,
and am regaining my Italian, and for want of more profitable
employment have turned play actor.
We have been getting up private theatricals here at the
house of an English lady.  I have already enacted Sir Charles
Rackett in "Three Weeks after Marriage," with great applause; and I am on the point of playing Don Felix in " The
Wonder."  I had no idea of this fund of dramatic talent lurking within me; and I now console myself that if the worst
comes to the worst I can turn stroller, and pick up a decent
maintenance among the barns in England.  I verily believe
nature intended me to be a vagabond.
P. S. I hope you intend to make some designs for Bracebridge Hall.  I would rather have the work illustrated by you
than by any one else.
I continue the sketch of his life at Dresden, with
some further extracts from  his note-book, beginning
three days after the date of the letter to Leslie, just
given.
_lMarch 19th.-Evening at Mrs. Foster's.  Rehearsal, and
then to the soir6e of Count Luxbourg, the Bavarian minister.
Macrch 23d.-Make  alterations in  play.   24th. —Walk
along the Elbe with Mrs. and Miss Foster-in evening a party
at M-rs. Foster's.  25th.-At home writing letters-in evening
rehearsal of "The Wonder."  26th, 27th, 28th, 29th, 31st, relhearsal.
April 1st.-Write letters all the morning-little Madame de
Bergh * makes an April fool of me.  2d.-In evening, dressed
* Wife of the Danish minister.




l48                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1823.
rehearsal of " The Wonder " at Mrs. Foster's. 3d. [Thursday.]
- My birth-day-at one o'clock drive into the country with the
Fosters and Col. Livius;  *  *  return before dark. In the
evening a small party at Mrs. Foster's to keep my birth-day.
The Miss Fosters prepare a surprise by getting up tableaux of
scenes in the Sketch Book and Bracebridge Hall and Knickerbocker.  The picture by Leslie of Dutch courtship admirably
represented by Madame de Bergh and Capt. Morier.  Annette
Delarbre by the young Countess Hernenbern, Mad. Foster,
and Capt. Morier.  Boar's Head Tavern, Eastcheap, by Mrs.
Foster, Miss Flora Foster, and Capt. Morier-conclude the
evening by waltzing.
Friday, 4th7.-Busy all day getting dress for the character
of Don Felix-Mrs. Foster assists in new trimming a very
handsome velvet dress, and makes a new scarf-in the evening
we performed the play of " The Wonder, a Woman keeps a
Secret," with great alteration.
Don Felix,                   MR. IRvING.
Col. Briton,                CAPT. MORIER.
Don Pedro,                   MR. PIGOTT.
Lissardo,                    COL. Livius.
Donna Violante,              Miss FOSTER.
Isabella,                    Miss FLORA FOSTER,
]Aarguerite,                 MRS. FOSTER.
Among the audience were the Austrian Ambassador, Count
and Countess Palffy, Count and Countess Luxbourg, Count Rumigny, Chevalier Canmpazano, Countess Loos and daughters,
Mons. and Madame de Bergh, the Lowensteins, Malsburg,
Miss Fitzthern, Countess Lubinski, &c., &c., &c.




AET. 40.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 149
April 8, 1823.-At one o'clock went to a court held by the
King and Queen of Bavaria-was presented by the Bavarian
minister, Count Luxbourg-king and queen very affable-a
good, hearty-looking man-plain and downright —the queen
thin, interesting-very affable-four princesses present-one
is twin-sister to Princess John, and wonderfully like her.
April 10th. —~     Go to Ponic to hear decision about
my having fired a pistol out of my window. The legal penalty
twenty dollars and forfeiture.  I am let off for two dollars
eight groschen fine, and two dollars some groschen cost, and
the pistol returned to me. Very lenient on the part of Mr.
Rarow, the President.
[The pistol was a small one, borrowed of Colonel
Livius, to be used in playing Don Felix in " The Wonder," in the mock drunken scene.  Finding it loaded,
he opened a pane of one of the windows, and fired it off;
making himself unconsciously amenable to the law.]
April 11th.-Read Italian with Mrs. Foster-dine there
-after dinner read them some MSS.
12th.-*      G Go to the Foster's, and pass the evening
reading from scrap books, and telling ghost stories until eleven
o'clock.
Sunday, 13th.-At ten o'clock prayers at Mr. Morier's, read
by the Rev. Mr. Austin-go at twelve o'clock to court-at the
king's and Prince Antoine's-the latter just returned from
Vienna-asked me if I thought of him sometimes-king joked
me about the pistol-*  *  X- go to the Lowenstein's and pass
the evening there until near eleven-Mademoiselle Annette
very curious about my early history.




150                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1823.
1 7th.-~;   Determine  to  quit Dresden  soon. * 
Italian lesson at Mrs. F.'s-dine there-converse at dinner
about Egmont-Emily makes some excellent observationsafter dinner E. looking over letters, &c.-Flora drawing-Mrs.
F., I, and children playing together. * *
18th.-~-   ": Mrs. F. calls on me in carriage and carries
me home-take French lesson-I leave my book  to be
written in.
20th.X —  Half past two go to Mrs. F. and read Italian
till dinner-dine there-return and dress for court-concert in
the queen's apartments at six-Weber played some of his own
music on piano.
Sunday, April 27th.-Go to Mrs. F.-read Italian till two
-dine there early as there is a court ball at six-return home
to dress-at six go to ball given by Prince Max in Prince
Frederick's apartments-the King and Queen of Bavaria and
of Saxony there-dance with E. and F. Foster-Queen of
Saxony sent the master of ceremonies to bring me to hersaid she had not seen me for a century-that she had just received my works from Paris, and made many compliments on
it-said she expected I would write something about Dresden,
&c., and about the chasse [a purpose entertained by him, but
never fulfilled].-King of Bavaria told me he knew Franklin
in Paris, and after Franklin's departure lie had bought a horse
and cabriolet which belonged to him-returned home about ten
or half past.
3OtFh.-    *'    Went to  Baron  Lowenstein's-found
Baroness and Miss Annette-Madame de Bergh soon came in
-had singing from  Mad. de Bergh and Miss Pigott.' *
read Jean Paul early in the evening-very pleasant eveningreturned home in very good spirits.




ET. 40.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                    151
Thutrsday, 3acay 1, 1823. —   alk in grosse gacrten from half'
past five till seven o'clock-beautiful sunshiny morning —-birds
singing-partridges bursting on the wing-hares-squirrelsclouds and breeze come tip toward seven-take German lesson
fiom  seven till nine-walk  in grosse garten from  half past
twelve till lalf past two-call at Foster's-read Italiandine-pass evening there talking of battles-WVaterloo, Blenheim, &c.
_iicty 2c. —Morning walked in Prince Antoine's garden
fromn six to seven -German lessons from  seven to nine-went
to Mrs. Foster's-read Italian till dinner time.~- *       After
dinner drove out in carriage with the ladies. —*'       What
a snug little world this might be made, leaving out seas, deserts, and other unprofitable parts-doing away with distancedistance does not prevent enemies from  getting by the ears,
but friends from embracing.
Mllfay 4th.-Early up-finish lines to Miss F, on birth-daysend them  and get note of thanks from  Mrs. F. —'' x  Dine
there-pleasant dinner.
As it was but rarely that Mlr. Irving kindled into
poetry, the reader may not object to see this further
specimen  of his rhymes, which  I preface with  the
note transmitting the effusion.
DRESDEN, May 4, 1823.
MIY DEAR MInRS. FOSTER:
I will be with you at two to-day, to be ready for dinner at
whatever time it may be served.  I had declined an invitation
that I might dine with you, as I recollected it was Miss Foster's birth-day.  I send you a few lines which I have scribbled




152                    LIFE AND LETTERS                         [1823.
on the occasion.  If you think them in any way worthy of the
subject and that they would give her any pleasure, slip them
into her scrap-book; if not, slip them into the stove, that convenient altar, and sacrifice them  as a burnt-offering to appease
the Muses.  I have no confidence in my rhymes.
God bless you,
ours truly,
WASHINGTON IRVING.
TO MISS EMILY FOSTER ON HER BIRTH-DAY.'Twas now the freshness of the year
When fields were green and groves were gay,
When airs were soft and skies were clear,
And all things bloomed in lovely MayBlest month, when nature in her prime
Bestows her fairest gifts on earthThis was the time, the genial time,
She destined for her favorite's birth.
And emblems delicate she chose,
Thy gentle virtues to bespeakThe lily and the pale, pale rose
She faintly mingled in thy cheek.
The azure of her noontide sky
With dewy gleams of morn combining,
She took to form thy speaking eye
With heaven's own blue serenely shining.
She bade the dawning's transient blush,
The light and warmth of day revealing,
At times thy pallid beauty flush
With sudden glows of thought and feeling.




ET. 40.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  153
But oh! the innate worth refined
She treasured in thy gentle breast;
The generous gifts of heart and mind,
They best can tell who know thee best.
Bloom on-bloom on-frank nature's child
Her favorite flower, her spotless one,
Still may she keep thee pure, unsoiled,
Still fresh, though ever shone upon.
About a fortnight after the date of this effusion,
Mr. Irving set out on a tour to the Riesen Gebirge,
or Giant Mountains, a chain  of mountains that separate   Silesia  from   Bohemia, in  company  with  a
young  English  officer, Mr. John  Cockburn, of the
artillery.   lie returned  to Dresden on  the 26th  of
June, after an absence of five weeks.  "Breakfast at
Mrs. Foster's-then  to  Hotel-pack  up  &c.-Little
Fosters come to see me off," is the record of May 20
in his diary, when he is about to start on his journey.
I give some extracts from his letters to Mrs. Foster
during his absence, for which I am  indebted to the
kindness of her daughter, Mrs. Emily Fuller, whose
epistle, transmitting them, the reader has already seen.
The first of the extracts which follow, would appear
to have been  scribbled  at the ruins of the convent
of Oiiwein, to which he had driven out from  his hotel
at Zittau.
May 21, 1823.
I do not remember whether you mentioned having been at
the ruined convent where I am scrawling this, though, as you




154                 LIFE AND LETTERS                   [1823.
are all such explorers of glens and visitors of ruins, you can
hardly have missed it.  The whole way fiom Zittau hither is
full of fine scenery; we came through after five o'clock.  I
don't know  when I have been  more delighted with fine
scenery, excepting perhaps at Thara ndt, but then I had such
companions to help me to enjoy it.  The valley that leads up
to the ruin put me in mind of English scenery, as indeed many
of the places in this part of Saxony do. The cottages are so
surrounded by garden and grass plat, so buried in trees, and
the moss-covered roofs almost mingling and blending with the
surrounding vegetation, the whole landscape is completely
rustic.  The orchards were all in blossom, and as the day was
very warm, the good people were seated in the shade of the
trees spinning near the rills of water that trickled along the
green sward.  But I must stop scribbling, for I see Cockburn
is finishing his sketch. He has made a couple of very pretty
ones, one of a part of the noble old ruin, another a peep from
it, between the rocky depths of the valley to the fine plain
that stretches beyond, sprinkled with cottages, with Zittau
glittering in the distance.
Zitta. —We have had a lovely walk home from Ouwein.
We stopped so long on the way that the moon was out in all
her splendor long before we reached Zittau, so I sauntered
along, pursuing that chain of speculation we were all amusing
ourselves with the other evening, when leaning over the balcony that looks into your garden and gazing at the stars.  I
like to enter a strange town by moonlight; if the houses are
high and spacious it makes every thing look splendid and
stately.  The fine white light it sheds freshens up the colors
of the buildings and makes them all look clean, and then the
broad masses of light, the deep shadows, throw every thing




ET. 40.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.,15
into such grand proportions, that you seem  to be wandering
among palaces. Such was the case even with little Zittau, as I
strolled under its arched gateway and up the principal street.
FRIEDLAND, May 22, 1823.
We have ransacked the castle of Wallenstein, and I have
seen his sword, and a drum with his name on it, and his portrait.  I was all in a glow while looking at these things and
thought it was with the recollection of this great man; but it
was with the recollection of the glowing poetry in which
Schiller has embalmed him.  I'd rather have conceived and
written that noble poem  than have achieved WVallenstein's
greatest victory.  I have been to the spot from which I presume Emily took her sketch of the castle.  I hope she will
excuse my apparent familiarity in using her beautiful name
instead of the formal one of Miss Foster.  Were I writing to
any one but yourself I should not do it; I would have given
any thing at the time to have heard her in her own delightful
way talk about Schiller's play and the scenes she preferred.
Cockburn has just finished a very slight and hasty, but pretty
and correct sketch.
At the picturesque old city of Prague, which he
revisited, his  travelling companion fell ill with the
scarlet fever, and he had to confine himself to the
house and nurse him.  The following letters to Mrs.
Foster were addressed to her from his sick room.
PRAGUE, June 1, 1823.
I thank you a thousand times, my dear Mrs. Foster, for
your letter of Wednesday; I cannot tell you how interesting
it was to me, placing the dear little circle of the Pavilion so




156                 LIFE AND LETTERS                    L1823.
completely before my eyes.  I was so impatient to read it that
I could not wait till I got to my lodgings which are distant
from the post office; yet I could not read it in the bustle and
confusion of the streets. I tried to get admitted to the Wallenstein garden; it was closed, so I scrambled up to the grassy
ramparts and read it in quiet, with old Prague and the Moldau
at my feet.  I have since read it over half a dozen times, for
whenever I read it, it seems to bring me among you all again.
I am scribbling in poor Cockburn's room, who is quite ill with
a fever and sore throat.  WVe have called in a physician, who
appears to be one of the Langsams; lhe has prescribed.a nunmber of doses, but I trust nature will fight her own battle against
the disease and the doctor.  All Prague is in an uproar with
a religious fate.  The great street below my window is swarming with crowds of priests, btirgerschaft in regimentals, the
different trades, crafts, and mysteries, with banners and garlands
of flowers, and peasant men and women in a variety of color
and costume, until the whole street looks like one great moving
flower-bed.  Just opposite the hotel is a temporary altar
erected, to which there is a grand procession, and the air resounds with music from  a variety of bands attending different
corps, which, mingling with the ringing of bells and the chaunting of priests and school children, make the oddest confusion of
sound you can imagine.  A few days since we had a grand
ceremony of the kind at which all the artillery assisted, and
there was a procession on the fine bridge which bestrides the
Moldau.  It had a noble effect, and looked like a conquering
army entering old Prague.  There is something very striking
and interesting to me about the old city.  It has more of a
continental look than Dresden; the latter, in fact, seems to
have been altered and repaired, and pulled down and built up




ET. 40.j          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   15s
again, until it has become quite a decent looking, commonplace, handsome town; like a disbanded soldier tamed down
into a sober, respectable citizen; but old Prague still keeps its
warrior look, and swaggers about with his old rusty corslet and
helm, though both sadly battered.  There seems to me to be
an air of style and fashion about the first people of Prague, and
a good deal of beauty in the fashionable circles. This, perhaps,
is owing to my contemplating it from a distance, and my imagination lending it tints occasionally.  Both actors and audience
seen from the pit of a theatre look better than when seen from
the boxes and behind the scenes. I like to contemplate society
in this way occasionally, and to dress it up by the light of fancy
to my own taste; when I get in the midst of it it is too apt to
lose its charm, and then there is the trouble and ennui of being
obliged to take an active part in the farce; but to be a spectator is amusing.  I am glad, therefore, I brought no letter to
Prague.  I shall leave it with a favorable idea of its society
and manners from  knowing nothing accurate of either, and
with a firm  belief that every pretty woman I have seen is an
angel, as I am  apt to think every pretty woman till I have
found her out.
PRAGUE, June 8, 1S23.
*  x  *  I am impatient to hear from you, my friend. How
glad I shall be, when I have seen what I want to see of strange
lands and strange places, and begin to tread back my steps in
the traces of old friendships.  I am  tired of being among
strangers; my eye begins to be sated with seeing, and my
ear with hearing; but I have prescribed to myself certain
places to see, as certain books are prescribed to study, and I
see them, as we often read, for information, but not for entertainment.  It seems to me at times as if I an the least fitted




158                  LIFE AND LETTERS                     [1823.
being  for this wandering life, into which chance and circumstance have thrown me.  I have strong domestic feelings
and inclinations, and feel sometimes quite dreary and desolate
when they get uppermost.  The excitement of variety and
gay society soon subsides with me and leaves a sad vacancy,
and I feel as if I could exclaim in the words of Schiller  "Das
herz ist gestorben; die welt ist leer.*  At such times my only
consolation is that in a little while more, I shall have seen
enough of the world, and then I will have done with strange
sights, strange faces, and all the phantasmagoria of society,
and give myself np to the society of those I like and those
that care for me. But I am writing in a sad, humdrum vein,
though you must not expect any thing better fiom one shut
up in a sick room..  "   
Thank you, my dear Miss Foster, for you kind attention
in sending me the plan of my route, and still more for your
kind note accompanying it.  You talk of my coming back; I
am ashamed to say it, I am almost wishing myself back already.
I ought to be off like your bird, but I feel I shall not be able to
keep clear of the cage.  I wish I liked you all only half as
much as I do.                       Yours ever,
W. I.
PRAGUE, June 13.
I have just got your letter, my dear Mrs. Foster.' I thank
you a thousand and a thousand times for the very kind solicitude
you express about me, you who have so many dear, delighted
things at home to occupy heart and soul, to trouble yourself
about a wanderer like me.   *  *  There are really
delightful walks in the vicinity of this place.  I often wish for
* The heart is dead; the world is empty.




ET. 40.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   19
you all here, that I might show  you some charming strolls;
there are several small islands in the Moldau, that are laid
out in walks; one that particularly delights me is called, I
think, " der Grosse Venedig."  It is covered with trees, and
has the most beautiful shady avenues and rambling foot paths,
that wind among groves and thickets, along the banks of the
Moldau.    
Will you tell Emily and Flora, that their kind wishes are
more gratifying to me than I can express?  Good heavens!
what would I give to be with you all this evening at the
strawberry supper you speak of.'X*  *      T The evening is coming on; I shall amuse
myself in picturing you all seated, I suppose in the little
saloon, and recalling the many evenings of homefelt enjoyment I have  passed among you; they are the sweetest
moments that I have passed in Dresden.  *  -* -  I would
not give one such evening spent in varied, animated, intelligent, but  unforced  and  unostentatious conversation, with
now  and then, but too rarely, a song, and now  and then a
recollection from some favorite author or a choice morsel from
a scrap-book, given with beaming looks and beaming eyes-I
would not give one such evening for all the routs and assemblies
of the fashionable world.    *    I am sick of fashionable life, and fashionable parties. I have never let myself into
the current for a time but I have been ultimately cast exhausted and spiritless on the shore.  What a sacrifice of the
nobler and better feelings there is in this kind of intercourse.
We crowd together into cities, and bring down our minds to
the routine of visits and formalities, and associate ourselves
with littleness and insipidity, "and say unto the worm, thou
art my brother and my sister."  We subject ourselves to the




160                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1523.
claims and importunities of people we dislike, and the censorship of people we despise.  The whole swarm  of insects
that buzz around us cannot administer to our pleasure, but
one, by his paltry sting, may torment us. Dresden, Dresden,
with what a mixture of pain, pleasure, fondness, and impatience I look back upon it.*  *      *
A  few  days after the date of this extract, Ml-r.
Irving returned by the way of Toplitz to Dresden,
where he remained until the 12th of July, when he
took his final departure for Paris, travelling part of the
way in company with his friends, the Fosters, who
were on their return to England.
They had made their house absolutely a home to me [he
writes to Peter] during my residence in Dresden. I travelled
in an open carriage with Mrs. Foster; the two Miss Fosters
and her two little boys followed on in a post chaise with their
German tutor.
The commencement of our tour was most auspicious, but
after leaving Leipsic, as we approached the Hartz regions, we
met with one of the most tremendous squalls of wind, dust,
rain, hail, thunder and lightning I ever experienced.
I extract the particulars of this travelling incident
from some scarcely legible pencilled memoranda.
Mrs. Foster gets on the box with me-fine and warmcountry begins to grow more varied-see a storm  gathering
ahead-it advances rapidly-I see that it is a thunder-gust and
likely to be a severe one-get Mrs. Foster into carriage-make




.ET. 40.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                    161
the carriage all fast and ready-mount the dicky with box coat
and a fur mantle about my legs, and umbrella-gust comes on
with a hurricane of wind, raising clouds of dust-the earth
seems thrown up into the air-the clouds brown with dust-the
whole atmosphere thickened and darkened-gust comes more
and more terrible-horses can hardly draw on the carriagebegins to rain-rain driven with incredible violence  haillarge as hazel-nuts-storm  increases-one horrible blast of
wind succeeds another  umbrella breaks and is whirled off into
a neighboring field-mantle flies after it-horses get frightened
-I descend from  coach-box-fear the carriage will be blown
over-the two leaders become unmanageable-postilion jumps
off and tries to hold them-they turn round and go down a
bank-try to keep them  quiet-they continue restive-drag
carriage after them  down a steep bank ~into a ditch-pole
breaks-carriage overturns —rush to the place and get the
ladies dut-none hurt materially-bruised a little-drenched to
the skin in an instant-leave them there and run to a house
about half a mile off-find a smith's shop with a small country
inn beside it-send workmen to look after the carriage, and
order rooms to be prepared for ladies-run back to carriagethe storm is already over-find them  all drenched to the skin,
but in good spirits and unhurt-they walk to the inn-the carriage is with much trouble righted and dragged up the bank
backward by two horses and six or eight men-get safe to the
inn-a new pole is made —we all change our clothes, and after
a repast of cold tongue and wine, set off in good spirits-the
ladies give their hats, which were quite wet, to a pretty maid
servant at the inn-and likewise a shawl-she will be the belle
of the neighborhood.
VOL. II.-(I1)




1(2                  LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1823.
This storm  was "the overture to a long series of bad
weather" [he writes to Peter], that lasted during our tour.
Still there were intervals of beautiful sunshine which we enjoyed the more from  contrast.  GVe accomplished a tour
through the Hartz mountains, which surpassed my expectations;
not from their height, but from  the magnificence of the forest
scenery, which reminded me of our American forests.  AVe
then passed through the Golden arc or golden meadow, which
lies between the Hartz and the Kyffhauser mountains, and continued on to Hesse.  I was delighted with the beauty of this
last country, of which, some how or other, I had no expectation.  In about ten days from our leaving Dresden, we arrived
at the beautiful little city of Cassel, the capital of Hesse, where
we remained a couple of days to repose from  the fatigues of
travelling, and to have a little pleasant time together before we
parted, as I had intended making the best of my way for Paris
from that place.  When it came to the last evening, however,
it seemed hard to part thus in the midst of a tour, so the next
morning I resumed my seat in the carriage, determined to see
my fair companions safely on board the steamboat at Rotterdam.  We had better weather during the remaining part of
the journey, and passed through some lovely country; a part
of what was formerly Westphalia.  At Rotterdam the Fosters
embarked.  I accompanied them down to the Brille and then
bade them  adieu as if I had been taking leave of my own
family; for they had been for nearly eight months past more
like relatives than friends to me.
I now made the best of my way for Paris, travelling day
and night, excepting a short stay of a night and part of a day
at Antwerp. I arrived here the day before yesterday [August
31, and have taken lodgings in the IHotel de Yorck, Boulevard




AET. 40.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                    163
Montmartre.  I shall now put myself en train for literary occupation, as it is high time for me to do something, having been
so long unsettled.  I am rejoiced to be once more so near to
you.  Do let me know how you are coming on, and how the
boat answers.




164:                   LIFE AND LETTERS                       11523.
CHAPTER IX.
AT PARIS-OUT OF SPIRITS FOR LITERARY OCCUPATION-THINKS OF GERMAN
SUBJECTS-FALLS IN WITH PAYNE, THE AMERICAN DRAMATIST-EMBARKS
WITH HIMT IN DRAMATIC LABORS-PETER'S ECONOMY-WASHINGTON'S PHILOSOPHY THEREUPON-BUSY ON RICHELIEU-VISITS PETER AT HAVRE-NEW
LODGINGS ON HIS RETURN-PAYNE GOES TO LONDON WITH RICHELIEU, MARRIED AND SINGLE, AND A ROUGH COPY OF AZENDAI-LETTER FROM PAYNE
-REPRESENTATION OF CHARLES II.-PAYNE'S OPINION OF IT-COPP'S SONG
AND CHARLES LABII-RESULTS OF THE JOINT THEATRICAL SPECULATIONSTHE FATE OF RICHELIEU-DEDICATION BY PAYNE.
M/R. IKR ING  had been so long idle with his pen
-  that on  his arrival at Paris he began  to feel
strongly the necessity of exertion.   6L When I once get
going again with my pen," he writes to Peter, " I mean
to keep on steadily, until I can scrape together enough
from  all my literary property to produce a regular income, however moderate.  We shall then be independent of the world and its chances."   The getting under
way, however, was the  great difficulty.   The  most
likely thing for him  to prepare speedily for the press
was his unfinished story of Buckthorne and his Friends,
which, as we have seen, he had laid aside at the suggestion of Leslie, as the groundwork of a novel; but it




ET. 40.1         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   165
had remained untouched, and he had never been able
to resume it.  His memorandum  book, as he styles the
miscellaneous registry, exhibits him  at this time as
awaking for several mornings in succession with " a
strange horror on his mind-a dread of futnur' evilof failure in future literary attempts-a dismal foreboding that he could not drive off by any effort of
reason."  In a letter to Peter written seventeen days
after his arrival, he speaks of being " wretchedly out
of spirits."
I have, in fact [he says], at times a kind of horror on me,
particularly when I wake in the mornings, that incapacitates
me for almost any thing.  It is now passing away, and in a
day or two I hope I shall be quite over it. It has prevented
me from pursuing any thing like literary occupation.  I am
aware [he continues] that this is all an affair of the nerves, a
kind of reaction in consequence of coming to a state of repose
after so long moving about, and produced also by the anxious
feeling on resuming literary pursuits.  I feel like a sailor who
las once more to put to sea, and is reluctant to quit the quiet
security of the shore.
If I can only keep the public in good humor with me [he
concludes], until I have thrown off two or three things more, I
shall be able to secure a comfortable little independence, and
then bread and cheese is secure, and perhaps a seat in the pit
into the bargain.
H-e had written to Peter in a previous letter, deprecating the practice of too rigid an economy on his part:




166                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1823.
I am afraid you deny yourself the little enjoyments and
amusements in your reach.  In economizing too closely, one
economizes away the flavor of existence.  I am a little for the
philosophy of our friend  Dur-tee-dog, who, when hardest
pinched, always made out to afford his seat in the pit at the
theatre.
A fortnight later (Sept. 4), recurring to some hints
of Peter about Germany, he writes:
I have been thinking over the German subjects.  It will
take me a little time to get hold of them properly, as I must
read a little and digest the plan and nature of them in my
mind.  There are such quantities of these legendary and romantic tales now littering from the press both in England and
Germany, that one must take care not to fall into the commonplace of the day.  Scott's manner must likewise be widely
avoided.  In short, I must strike out some way of my own,
suited to my own way of thinking and writing.  I wish, in
every thing I do, to write in such a manner that my productions may have something more than the mere interest of narrative to recommend them, which is very evanescent; something, if I dare to use the phrase, of classic merit, i. e. depending upon style, &c., which gives a production some chance for
duration beyond the mere whim  and fashion of the day.  I
have my mind tolerably well supplied with German localities,
manners, characters, &c., and when I once get to work, I trust
I shall be able to spin them  out very fluently.  I have some
ideas and subjects that I think will take if properly executed.
At present I am busy on a slight literary job which I hope will
put some money in my pocket without costing much time or




2ET. 40.]      OF WASHINGTON IRVING.              167
trouble, or committing my name. When that is done, and the
inventing fit comes over me again, I will strike at something
else.
The slight literary job here alluded to was an alter
ation of La Jeunesse de Richelieu, a French play by
M. Duval, which had been acted in Paris about thirty
years before. It was one that Payne had already done
in the rough, and he was now engaged in retouching
and heighltening a very ill-chosen plot, which he hoped,
if thoroughly cast, to make effective in representation.
He had been tempted at this time, while he could not
get going in any leading occupation of the pen, which
he could hope to make available for the London market, to accept the proposition of Payne to assist him in
his pursuits and divide the profits of their joint dramatic manufacture, with the understanding that his
agency was to be kept secret. Payne at this time had
fitted up a cottage at Versailles in handsome style
which he did not occupy, but was living, as Mr. Irving
found him on the 13th of August, "in a sky parlor at
the Palais Royal," where he employed himself in remodelling pieces from the French stage, and adapting
them to English representation.
Soon after this dramatic agreement, Mr. Irving
made a visit to his brother Peter, upon which he had
long set his heart, and carrying with him some specimens of his " literary jobs," with a view, I imagine, of
engaging his cooperation and cutting out occupation




168                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1823.
for him.  During this absence, Payne rented  some
apartments il Paris, and having transferred to them
his furniture from Versailles, re-let them to Mr. Irving
on h!is return, reserving a small room  for himself.  In
a letter to Peter, dated the day of his return, October
3, Mr. Irving thus speaks of lodgings he was to occupy
for an almost unbroken period of more than a year:
I am just about moving to my new quarters, No. 89 Rue
Richelieu.  I am greatly pleased with them. It is in one of
the best private hotels in Paris; every thing about the establislnment is particularly genteel and well regulated.  My apartments consist of bed-room, sitting-room, and dining-room, with
use of kitchen and appurtenances and a cellar.  Payne has furnished them very handsomely.  They have a warm southern
exposure, and look into a very spacious and handsome court,
and being newly finished and fitted up are very complete.
You would be quite charmed with them.  I shall have a bed
for you whenever you choose to pay Paris a visit.  I shall live
very much at home, having an excellent femme de m.enage to
cook, &c., &c.  The'hotel is near the Rue Feydeau, between
the old opera house and the Boulevards, one of the most central
spots in Paris.  As my room is pretty high up and separated
by the court from the street, I am not incommoded by noise,
and have plenty of daylight and sunshine.
A more important advantage is specified in a later
description of his bachelor "' nest" to his sister, Mrs.
Paris: "The great national library, one of the very
best in the world, is within five minutes' walk of my




ET. 40.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                169
lodgings, and I have the privilege of having any books
from it I please."
Soon after his occupation of his new lodgings he
sends Peter this picture of himself and Payne at their
joint labor.
Payne is busy upon Azendai, making a literal translation.
I am looking over it as he translates, and making notes where
there must be alterations, songs, choruses, &c. It will have to
be quite re-written, as the dialogue is flimsy and pointless; still
the construction will answer, and that is the main point.
Ten days later he writes to Peter: "' Payne sets off
privctely for London on Wednesday, to treat with
Kemble about Richelieu, and Belles and Bailiffs;"
another adaptation from  the French in which, under
the title of Married and Single, he had altered some
scenes.  He adds: " I shall send with him  the rough
copy of Azendai that it may be shewn to Bishop, and
the proper directions procured for the music."
It was to avoid arrest for his theatrical entanglements in London that Payne left "'privately."  The
author of " Home, sweet Home " had made handsomely
by the success of some of his pieces, yet it was seldom
that he was long free from  pecuniary perplexity.  IHe
speaks with bitter jocularity in one of his letters, of the
hard tug he had had with life since he grew too portly
for the stage and began " to falten on trouble and starvation."  His first letter does not disclose a very auspicious beginning to the dramatic speculation.
VOL. II. 8




170                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1823.
LONDON, Nov. 7. 1823.
MY DEAR IRVING:
I was detained at Dieppe ten days waiting for a boat. At
last I got out in the storm which made so many wrecks, and
was in a gale all Monday night and part of Tuesday, sixteen
hours and a half.  The same night I went to the play at
Brighton, and had the happiness of finding I had just missed
Clari, which had had a very considerable run some nights before. I got here on WYednesday, day before last, too late to do
any thing, and having rode all -the way outside in a terrible
rain, was stiff, and stupid, and tired. However, I packed off
my things (Richelieu, and Married and Single) instantly to
Charles Kemble.  Yesterday I delivered all your letters, inquired for your music, got my passport signed by Smith, dined
with Leslie and Newton, got a lodging under the name of Hayward (which I am  every minute forgetting), and, heartily
weary, found my bed was over a livery stable, where the
hackney coaches entered every hour, and in which every horse
had a violent cough.  I feel as if I had not slept for a month.
Now for business.  I saw Charles to-day and was very well
received by the Committee,* but when I asked what they had
to say about my pieces, they had not seen them! I caused a
hunt, and at last the parcel was found unopened. So much for
the necessity of having come over. Charles took them home.
My description of Azendai, and my disclosure of your confidential communication seemed to excite him. He asked me to his
box to-night and to dinner either to day or to-morrow; but
there will be no chance of specific arrangements till after Monday, I fear. I shall hand him Azendai to-night, If I had the
Roulier, I could make a market of it.  Pray send it to me im* The Conmmittee of Management.




ET. 40.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                171
mediately.  I mean the printed copy.  Nothing answers now
but the horses.  I could not speak of terms at a first interview.
No news of your music at Birchell's; and they have no room
for Abul Hassan t this season, unless, as some one observed,
horses could be put in it!!!!  1  e
I think I shall dine with Miller to-day and Charles to-morrow.  I am to go to a private box this evening to see the
Horses.  If you can think of any opportunity for a grand
equestrian spectacle, it might do. 1 am almost afraid they will
insist on bringing Richelieu in on horseback. Charles says he
thinks you ought to produce better comic pieces than any one
he knows, judging from the story of the Unknown Gentleman
whose other half only is seen.
e  *  Newton and Leslie are very anxious to see you.
They talk of you with a sort of affectionate idolatry.  *  -  I
have just received my passport to return, from the French ambassador, so ( all's right."  You will hear from me again on
Monday.
About eighteen days after the date of this letter,
Mr. Irving transmitted to Payne the maanuscript of
Charles II. or the Merry Monarch, a piece in three acts
altered from  La Jeunesse de Henry V., and of which
he speaks to Peter as being rather of a light kind and
dependent on good genteel acting.  Payne writes on
its receipt: " I consider it one of the best pieces of the
kind I ever read; there is a never diminishing vein of
wit running through it, which coming in aid of situations eminently dramatic, gives it a claim  to rank
with the best works in the language."
f A German opera which Mr. Irving had translated at Dresden.




172                LIFE AND LETTERS                 [1s23.
Janucry 27t/,-~Payne writes to [Mr. lrving that he
had at length finished " the long pending negotiation respecting this  piece and  Richelieu, and sold
them  to Covent Garden, for two hundred  guineas
down," which he considered " a good sum,"' and he
adds, "the copyrights may double it."
As Mr. Irving's letters to Payne are missing, I
cannot say how far he was satisfied with this result
of his theatrical speculations, but perhaps it may
not be without interest to trace the further fortunes
of the pieces thus bargained for, which went to their
ordeal at different dates.
Charles II. was produced  May  27, 1S24, and
met with the most decided success.  "The piece will
grow  upon  the  public  on  representation,"  writes
Payne to Mr. Irving, " and I am convinced become a
stock  piece.  The points all told  acazingly.  JMy
notion about Copp's always trying a song, and never
being able to get it out, was very effective in representation."   The conception and  execution of this
song, which Payne jestingly speaks of as my notion,
were his coadjutor's, done, as he once told me, to hit
the English taste for broad fun.  Some time later,
after a  series of successful representations, Payne
writes in regard to this song: " Charles Lamb tells
me he can't get Copp's song out of his head, and is
very anxious for the rest of it.  I-e says the hiatus
keeps him awake o' nights.'
Note.-The following brief extract fromn the play presents the racy old




iEr. 40.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   173
Payne disposed of the copyright for fifty guineas,
after Mr. Irving had assisted him in pruning the piece,
and reducing it to two acts.  As the latter had stipulated for the concealment of his name, the only allusion
Payne could permit himself in the preface, was an
intimation that the manuscript had been revised by
a literary friend, to whom  he was " indebted  for invaluable touches."'
Richelieu  was not brought out until February,
1826;  its appearance  having  been  delayed  under
various pretexts.  First, nothing could be done until
after  the  Christmas  holidays;  then  there  arose  a
difficulty about the cast, Charles Kemble inclining to
one character, and Payne insisting it would be the
ruin of the piece if he did not take another; then
he wished  that  part which  was Richelieu,  to  be
written  up, and  Dubois, Richelieu's secretary, who
was too prominent to be written down; and so, from
one cause or another, it was not produced until the
commencement of the year 1826, when   Ir. Irving
was at Madrid.  The note of preparation began to be
Captain in his first abortive effort at being delivered of " the only song" he
" ever knew."' In the time of the Rump,
As old Admiral Trump,
With his broom swept the chops of the channel;
And his crew of Big Breeches,
Those Dutch sons of —Aiary.-[Putting her hand on his mouth] Oh, Uncle, Uncle, don't sing
that horrible rough song."




174                 LIFE AND LETTERS                   [1823.
sounded  in  December, 1825.   It was read  in  the
greenroom  by Charles Kemnble about the middle of
this month, and one of the persons who was to act in
it wrote Mr. Payne  that  all present were deeply
affected, and that it was considered as one of the best
plays which had been heard for some years.  It was
played  a few  nights and then withdrawn, exception
being taken to the plot.  " I went to see it last night,"
writes a literary friend to Mr. Irving.' It is very
well got up; the dresses are beautiful, and the effect
is more that produced by a piece at the Francais, than
any thing I have seen.  The dialogue is particularly
well done, and  the laughter all in the dress circle.
It is thought highly of, and only wants a little correction to be the best thing we have seen of the age."
It was put to press in:New York, by a Mr. Murden,
a publisher of plays, at the close of 1826, with the
following dedication by Payne.
[To ~Tcashington  Trving.
MY DEAR IRVING:
It is about twenty years since I first had the pleasure of
knowing you;  and it is not very often that people are found
better friends at tihe later part of so long an acquaintance than
at tile beginning.  Such, however, has been the case with us;
and the admiration which I felt for you when I was a boy, has
been succeedede by gratitude for steady and intrepid kindness
now that I am no longer one.
Although I llave had better opportunities to know you than
the world, by whom  you are valued so highly, I should not




LEr1. 40.1        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                    17
have ventured to make a public display of our acquaintanceship under ally other circumstances than those by which it
is drawn forth at present.  I am under obligations to you beyond the common kindnesses between friends of' long standing,
which it is fitting I should acknowledge.  In the little comedy
of Charles the Second I have referred to the assistance you
gave me, without venturing to violate your injulction with regard to the concealment of your name.  But that aid has been
repeated to such an extent in the present work, as to render it
imperative upon nme to offer you my thanks publicly, and to
beg you will suffer me to dedicate it to one from whose pen it
has received its highest value.  I only regret it is not in my
power to make a more adequate return for the nmany encouragements amid discomfort, which you have so frequently and
so spontaneously bestowed upon,
My dear Irving,
Your sincere and grateful friend,
JOHIN HOWARD PAYNE.
PAnIs, No. 89 RuE DE RICHELIEU,
February 13, 1S26.
March  15, 182T, we have  this final allusion  to
Richelieu, in a letter of Ebenezer to his brother Washington: " I have not been able to make any thing out
of your friend  Payne's drama  of Richelieu.   The
publisher tried hard to get it performed at one of our
theatres, but could not succeed; the managers were
afraid to attempt it, alleging that it was deficient in
incifdenzt particularly in the latter scenes.  The publisher had one thousand copies printed at his own ex



176               LIFE AND LETTERS               [1823.
pense, seven hundred of which are in my hands. The
other three hundred he has to repay him his expenses."
This is the last trace I get of Richelieu.  Whatever
its merit as a composition, the plot was objectionable,
and the play much better suited to the closet than
the stage.




JET. 40.]         OF:WASHINGTON IRVING.                   177
CHAPTE R X.
REVOLVING LITERARY PLANS-EXTRACTS FROM NOTE-BOOK-TALMA-ADMIRAL
IIARVEY-KENNEY S ANECDOTES-LORD JOHN RUSSELL-CAPTAIN MEDWINBYRON-PASTA-CORRECTS SALMAGUNDI FOR GALIGNANI-LETTER TO LESLIE
-PROPOSITION OF GALIGNANI FOR AN EDITION OF BRITISH AUTHORS-PROJECT OF A SECOND SKETCH BOOK-LETTERS TO MURRAY ABOUT TALES OF A
TRAVELLER.
AYING  glanced at this theatrical episode in the
author's life, I now  resume the regular course
of my narrative, going back to a period shortly succeeding Payne's departure for London, and just after
Peter had left Havre for Paris, to become a member
of his bachelor establishment.   At this time, Nov.
8, 1823, Murray  applies the following  spur to  his
lagging pen.
Nov. 8th —    Mr. H. Payne tells me he is a fellowlodger with  you  at  Paris, and  as he is expected
quickly to return, I cannot refrain from  sending compliments to you, and of adding an inquiry as to your
literary  occupations, and  what your publisher may
be allowed to expect from  you in the course of the
winter.  I am  perfectly ready for you, and the sooner
you take the field the better."  Thus stimulated, he
VOL. II. —*       (12)




l178               LIFE AND LETTERS                1lS23.
felt increased impatience to mature some of the literary
plans lie had been revolving.  " Wrote a little at
History of an Author,"  is one passage in his memorandurn book."  "Tried to commence work on Germany, but could not do any tlhing," is another.  Then
follows: "'Toward twelve o'clock, an idea of a plan
daTwned on me —made it out a little, and minuted
down heads of it.  Felt more encouraged-felt as if
I should make something out of it."  This was a plan,
as lie once told me, to mingle up the legendary superstitions of Germany, in the form  of tales, with local
descriptions and a little of tlhe cream  of travelling
incidents, but lie added, " there was a rawness about
every attempt to bring it into shape.  It needed time
to mellow  in my mind.'  At a later date, Dec. 17, 1
evolve from the scarcely legible leaves of his pencilled
memorandcum  this  passage:' Woke early-felt depressed  and desponding-suddenly a thought struck
mle low to arrange thle MSS. on hand, so as to make
two volumes of Sketch Book-tat cluite enlivened
me.  At breakfast communicated  it to Peter, who
was highly pleased with it."  Under this animating
impulse, he writes to Murray, Dec. 22, telling him  he
should "probably have two volumes of the Sketch
Book ready for him  in the spring," and his note-book
shows him  at work the next day on an article on
* This was the title selected for the novel in which he was intending to
expand Buckthorne and his Friends, as before mentioned; which purpose,
however, he never fulfilled.




rET. 40.          OF WASHINGTON IRVNG.                     179' French and English animosity and character," probably intended  for the new  Sketch Book.  A  few  of
the succeeding days are given to the story of Wolfert Webber, the rough  draft of which  he finished
January  3, and  then, after a little  retouching  and
alterinog with a feeling of exhaustion, " and heavy and
clogged in his faculties by cold," he drops the pen.
A  few more leaves gleaned from  his memorandum
book, give us  some other  glimpses and  anecdotes
of his life during this sojourn in Paris, which precedes
the publication of the Tales of a Traveller..Friday, Nlov. 28th, 1823.-Dined at Beauvilliers, in company
with Talma and others.  Talma was in fine spirits, very frank,
natural, and communicative.  IIe speaks English well, and appeared to like the English character.  lIe thinks the English
are a noble people, but the French are more amiable and agreeable to live among.  Tble intelligent Englisl are disposed to
do generous actions, but the common people are not so liberal
as the same class among the French.  The common English
have bitter national prejudices.  IF a French prisoner escaped
in Englaiid, the common people were against him.  When the
fight was going on round Paris, the Austrian and other prisoners were brought in wounded and passed along the boulevards;
the people pitied them, and gave them money, bread, &c.  He
spoke of two French prisoners that escaped in England, and
made their way to a seaport to get over to France.  All their
money, however, was exhausted, and they had not wherewithal
to hire a boat.  Seeing a banker's name over a door, they went
in, stated their case frankly, and asked for a little pecuniary




180                  LIFE AND LETTERS                     [1823.
assistance, promising to refund.  Iie at once gave them  one
hundred pounds.  They offered a bill or receipt.  He declined.
"If you be not men of honor," said he, "such paper would be
of no use, and if you are men of honor, there is no need of it."
Tilis was related to Talma by one of the parties obliged.
He recollects seeing Franklin during the revolution.
SSatutrday, NYoov. 29th.-Reduced Azendai to two acts and
sent it to Payne, to whom I also write-went to mlane7ge and
took exercise on horseback-dined at home-passed the evening at Mr. Storrow's [an American family residing in Paris,
with whom lie was very intimate].
Dec. lst. —Vent out to call on the IHarveys-overtaken
by a violent slower in the Rue de la Paix —stop in a slopLady Louisa Harvey and her daughters drive up-hand her
out-get into tlhe carriage with the young ladies-gossip with
them for half an hour-promise to dine witlh them on WVednesday-they set me down at my lodgings-dine at home-go to
Galignani's, and from  thence to Mr. Storrow's, where I pass
the evening.
Dec. 3d.-Hillhouse calls on me-  *  * call on Lord John
Russell-find him just going out-promise to dine with him
to-morrow-   -  *  dine at Admiral Harvey's-Admiral tells
me of iis serving in tlie United States in 1776, when a midslhipman-cast away in the Liverpool, in month of February,
on Rockaway beach-kindness of the people to them    Quaker
family of the Hicks, and another family in particular-remained quartered on them several weeks-part of the time in
tents-always lospitably and kindly treated-when they came
to pay off and expected to have a great deal above allowance
to pay for, the good people would take nothing but the King's
allowance, and told them they were people in distress-would




~ET. 40.1        OF WASHINGTON IRVING                    181
not take any thing out of their pockets-first night of their
going ashore and landing in boats swamped-people came down
in wagons-took them  up home, changed and dried their
clothes, and gave them supper -lie has never forgot it.
Dec. 4t. —Kenney breakfasted with me-much talk about
the theatres-incredible the rivalships and feuds between the
actors-Kean is impatient of having any one in same piece
that has a good part-asked Ellistonr last season: How long,
sir, am I to act with that d    d jesuitical bug    r, Young?
-Kenney told story of young empty officer who brought accounts of battle of Waterloo-invited to Holland House-in
great spirits, imagining he should make his way famously by
giving account of the battle-talked largely at table-Lady
Holland, as Luttrell said, kept eyeing him with a look that
seemed to say, I'll be d    d if you are ever in this house again
-after breakfast, as tile day was mild and did not rain, went
to Galignani's, then to Louvre-   *  *  returned and dressed
for dinner-dined tete-d-tele with Lord John Russell at his
lodgings, Bains de Tivoli-talked of Moore.
Moore has abandoned his great poem-tile Loves of the
Angels was an episode of it which he enlarged.  Its want of
success discouraged him-Lady Donegal wrote to him, It both
displeases and disappoints me-this was a sore blow-Lord
Lansdowne, who had read and liked it, just then arrived down
in the country, but neglected to write Moore for some days on
the subject-Moore took this as a tacit disapprobation, and was
very much disheartened.
Wednesday, January 7th.-Call this morning at Galignani's-agree to correct Salmagundi for liim.*  Get Byron's last
* Payne had just written him from London (Dec. 26): " A great fuss




182                   LIFE AND LETTERS                      [1824.
cantos of Don Juan-  *   T Pass evening at l ome dozing and
reading part of ninth canto of Don Juan, which I do not much
relislh.
Thursday, 8th1.-Call on Villamil, lwho has been confined
some time with the gout-find there Lord John Russell, Capt.
Medwii, a friend of Lord Byron, and author of the WVandering
Jew-dissertation by Villamil on craniology-[he was a de,
termined  craniologist].-Capt. Medwin says Byron is very
abstemious, and lias reduced himself quite thin-is in excellent
health...Friday, 9th.-Dined at Madame de Quandt's, Hotel Mirabeau, a German lady-blue-stocking'- met there Dr. Gallmiddle-sized old gent, with bald hlead-hair bushy eacl sideround foreheadc -wrinkled-dry, brownish, Chinese complexion
-black eyes.
J(nzuary  12lh, 1824.-Go in evening to Th'eatre Fran(caisEcole des Vieillards-Talima and Mlle. Mars admirable.
14th.  Very cold weatlher-feel symptoms of having catught
cold-great hoarseness-stiffness of the muscles of the throatafter breakfist send copy of Salmagundi to Galigllani-go there
-return him Don Juan-read papers.
1 5tl.-Dined at Grattan's *-present, Lady Vavasour, Miss
Pollard, Mr. Horace Smith, &c.-Horace Smith pleasant, but
a cold, witty man.i
1'ilday, 16th. —Called at Lady Granard's-found Lady L.
Harvey and Miss Harvey there-sat some time talking with
TLady G., Lady Adeline, and Lady Caroline Forbes, who wlere
has been made here by Tegg in republishing Salmagundi under your
name. I will send you a copy."
* Author of Highways and Byways.




,ET. 40.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                     183
amusing themselves with the whimsicalities of their little black
pug Gipsy, daughter of Jumper, deceased.
Saturdlay, 17th. —After breakfast read Gresset's V'er-vert,
or History of a Parrot —excellent-full of wit and waggery, and
delightfully versified.
S1u7day, 18lth.-This morning the boys came out of school
for the day-read the mornling service to them, and pointed
out the beauty and solemnity of the prayers.
["The boys "  were  sons of his sister, Mrs. Van
Wart, who were being  educated  at a public school
in Paris.]
Januarly'22(, 1824.-Read in Don Carios-call at Galignani's —read papers land return home, and lie on sofia all day
reading Don Carlos-send books to the King's Library, and get
out History  of Normandy-dine at General Airey's-very
pleasant dinner-General Airey's story of Irishman, wlho asked
tlle other why lie did Inot go to some public amusement: " W"hy,
my Aw ife has been dead but a month."    Well, what of that,
she'll never be deader."
Janluary 25th.-At breakfast a letter is handed me by post
from  Miss, a strange rhapsodical letter-the girl evidently deranged-requesting a lock of my hair, &c.,T1an7uary 26ih.-Read the Wanderer, a poem  by Capt.
Medwin-has many beautiful passages-called on Capt. M.promised to dine with hIim  to-morrow-lie is cousin to Mr.
Shelley —character of Julian in the Wanderer, Shelley's.  *
Mr. Foy called at two-sat for my likeness.
Januttlary 30th. —Visit from Mr. Goodrich of Conn.-brought
letters fiom  John T. Irvilng-received letter from  Payne, en



184                    LIFE AND LETTERS                        [1824.
closing fifty pounds to pay certain bills-he has concluded bargain witli managers-two hundred guineas-[for Richelieu aiid
Charles II., as stated in the preceding chapter].
February  1.st.-   * I    Drove witl Capt. Medwin in his
cabriolet to Bois de Boulogne-long talk about Lord Byronlhe writes at fits-has intervals when lie cannot write, coitinuing two and three weeks-does not revise nor correct muchwrites sometimes in bed-rises at twelve-sometimes twoeats a crust in a cup of tea with eg —rides out at four-when
in writing mood writes at any time  if persons are present often
writes and talks-does not seclude and deny himself —never
speaks ill of Lady Byron-when her father died lie wrote a.
most affectionate and moving letter-wished a reconcilialt ionreceived no reply, but a cold message throughl his sister-when
lie dines by himself is very abstemious as to wilne-when lie
has company eli  drinks freely-gives away'large sums-reads
miscellaneously all thle modern works-reads mucl —ldoes not
study-never touches the classics-is not a good Grecian-understands Italian well-reads history, &c., relative to tlie subl
ject lhe is writing on-lias an excellent memory, but not for
dates-a poetical memory-does not like to meet strangers
who are desirous to see him-says they expectt great things,
and lie is but a common man in conversation.
Febcruary  3d.-Last nighlt and this morning read St. Ronan's \TWell-evenling to opera-Tancredi-sat in Dr. G.'s box
-Pasta vexed in course of evening by a duet being called for
which lhad been  omitted, Pasta being  indisposed-Miss G.
says Pasta is very pleasant —not well-informed, but of good
natural talent-feels strongly what sle plays, and is often overpowered by ]cer characters, particularly the few  first representations-does not seem to be happy-her husband gambles




A T. 40.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING                    185
-wlen  Pasta sits by her at music the tears will stream  down
lier clieeks-is a little high-tempe-red alld capricious, but amiable-hias a fine little girl ab)out seven-anecdote of Miss.G.her English servant being sent for a coiffeur went for a confessor.
F'cbruary 7th.-Read miscellaneously and look over MSS.,
tbut carnot write.
lebrtary 9th.Thllis morning finished correcting Salmagunldi-write to Leslie.
I give the letter in which he mentions that lie is
trying to get some manuscripts in order for a couple
more volumes of the Sketch Book: a plan afterward
relinquished  for "The Tales of a Traveller," as we
shall see by some further quotations from  his memorandum  book, and the letter to Murray, which is to
follow.
[To Charles R.t  Leslie.]
PAnIS, Feb. 8, 1824.
MY DEAR LESLIE:
It is a long' while since I llave heard from either you or
Newton.  H-ow are you both, and what are you doing?  I
see among the pictures to be exhibited at the British Gallery
a "Don Quixote" by Newton, which. I presume is the little
picture made from poor Ogilvie, which I have before heard of.
Do you not intend to have any thing ready for the next Exhibition?  I long to see you again to have some good long talks
witl you.  I wish you were hlere at present, I think you
would do me good.  I am  trying to get some manuscripts in
order for a couple more volumes of the Sketch Book, but 1




1St8                 LIFE AND LETTERS                       11324.
have been visited by a fit of sterility for this month past that
throws me all aback, and discourages me as to the hope of getting ready for a spring appearance.  I have a Dutch story
written, which I have shown to fiiend Foy, for I like to consult
brother artists.  He thinks it equal to any of my others.  I
think you would like it.  I have determined also to introduce
my History of an  Aiuthor, breakinug it into parts and distributing it through the two volumes. It had grown stale with
me, and I never could get into the vein sufficient to carry it on
and finisl it as a separate work.  Besides, the time that has
elapsed without my either publishing or writing, obliges me to
make the most of what I have in hand and can soonest turn to
account.  I have a few other articles sketched out, of minor
importance.  If I could only get myself into a brisk writing
mood, I could soon furnish the materials for two volumes; and
if these were well received and paid well, I should then have
leisure and means to pursue the literary plans I have in view.
But I am at this moment in a sad, heartless mood, and nothing
seems to present to rouse me out of it.  Write to me, I beg of
you, and say something to stimulate and cheer me up.  Do
not say any thilg of the foregoing literary confidings to any
onle.
I am  sorry to see Salmagundi is published  at London,
with all its faults upon its head.  I have corrected a copy for
Galignani, whom I found bent upon putting it to press.  My
corrections consist almost entirely in expunging words, and
here and there an offensive sentence.  I have a set of your illustrations of my works; they are admirable.  I wish you had
made others for Bracebridge Hall, or that yoiu would still do
so.   I still think  your Dutclh  Fireside worthy  of being
painted by you as a cabinet picture.  It is admirable.  The




~ET. 40 1           OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                      137
engravilng from Newton's portrait of me is thougllt an excellent
likeness tby my brother and by otlers here.
I see Mr. Foy very frequently, and the more I see of hlim
the better I like him.  I thanlk yvont for making me acquainted
with him. I am very much incommnioded by visits and invitations, for in spite of every exertion I find it impossible to keep
clear of society entirely without downright churlishness and
incivility.
Do let, me hear from  you, my dear Leslie, as soon as you
can spare a moment to tile pen. I am  sure a letter from  you
will be of service to me, as a visit from  you  ihas often been,
when in one of my dispirited moods.  Give my best remembrances to your sister, and to Newton when you see him.
Yours ever,
AV. 1'.
I resume with some leaves from  his melmorandum
book, begilning eigllt days after the letter just given.
Feb. 1 6th.-Awak e very early, full of uneasy  thoughts
-light. my lamp and read in order to dispel them-at breakfist talk of Italian story-determilne to try it-go  to Foy
-converse with him  on the subject-lie relates an anecdote
or two which excite me-return home and commence-e Medwin calls and sits for some time-recomlmence at half past two
-write till four on introduction-dine with Peter.
Fl;'b. 17th.-Wake very early-get up at six o'clock and
write till eiglt at introductory  part of Italian  tale-after
breakfast resume my p-en  alid write all day at the Italian
story-finishl the introduction and commence the tale-write
twenty-eight pages this day-clean and neat writing.




188                   LIFE AND LETTERS                      [1S24.
Fib. 18th.-Slept ill last night-rise unrefresh-ed-while
breakfast tllings are removing, scr.awl the story of the Bold
Dragoon-after breakfast resume  tlle Italian story-rewrite
what I wrote yesterday, and add eight or nine pages-feel
hlaggard from want of rest last niglt..leb. 19th.-Wake very early in the morning, and try in
vain to sleep again-after breakfast resume the story of the
Mysterious Picture-Capt. Medwin calls, but I continue writing
-finish the story by half past three, having written twentythree pages since half past nine-dine at Dr. Maclaughlin'spresent several gentlemen whom  I knew  by sight, but not
by name, except Col. Thornton-Thornton speaks of the handsome manner in which General Jackson sent back watches
and epaulettes that had been taken from  officers at New Orleans-speaks of the customn in war, not to fire upon individuals-even if reconnoitring parties advance too near, when
no actual engagement is going on, they are hlailed and desired
to kieep back.
Feb. 20th.-Slept ill last night-after breakfast this morning, resume and  rewrite the stories of tlhe Aunt and  the
Bold  Dragoon-twenty-three  pages-at four o'clock  go to
Galignani's-Galignani proposes  my  editing  an  edition  of
British Classics-promise to think of it-lie is about publishing
Knickerbocker-dined at Medwin's with Mr. Jenkinson and
Mr. Mills-I was oppressed by torpor and heaviness.
Feb. 22cl.Rewrite the story of my Uncle and the Mar.
quis-fourteen pages.
Feb. 23cd.-This morning  write  introduction to  Robber
tales-twelve pages-interrupted by various circumstancesGalignani and Didot call to engage me as editor of their edition
of Britisl Classics-refer tlem to Peter.




ET. 40.]           OF WASIINGTON IRVING.                       189
IFeb. 24ir'.-Wakeful at night-write five  pages-story
of Popkins-all the worse for writing —went with  Peter to
Galicglanl's-talked of the editing of British  authors-they
offered 20,000 fiancs-stated my terms.
IFeb. 25th.-Awloke early-felt greatly  relieved  by  the
bath and sleep of last night-wrote in bed on the Robber story,
viz.:  tlhe  adventure of Polpkins-ten  pages before breakfast-after breakfast wrote the concluding adventure of the
attack of the escort-ten pages.
MEarch 6th.-Passed last night on sofa-Irving   better this
mornin g-physician pronounces his malady the measles-write
at various parts of the Sportman's tales-dine at home with
Peter-in the evening go to a small party at Lady Thomond's
-met there the Granards, Alcocks, &c.-talking with  Col.
Alcock, I maintain: until nations are generous they will never
be wise; true policy is generous policy;  all bitterness, selfishness, &c., may gain small ends, but loses great ones-it
may appear chivalrous, but it is true; expedients may answer
for tlhe moment-they gain a point, but they do not establish
a principle-there is a return of the poisoned clalice.
Sundlay 7th.-Rewrite part of Italian story this morning
-Mr. Mills calls-drive out in his cabriolet-return  home
early-find Irving very restless with delirium.
MIonlday Sth.-Passed  last night in  Irving's room,  rw:o
was very restless-this (lay write at the Italian  story-dine
at hom c-doctor  calls-doubts whether  Irving's  compnlaint
is not the smallpox-pass the night in Irving's room.
lTaeesday 9lh.-Irving  very  much  broken  out-has  no
* Irving Van Wart, his nephew, whom he had taken from school to his
quarters, that he might give him his personal attention during an illness,




190                  LIFE AND LETTERS                      [1824.
delirium  to-day-doctor calls at noon-pronounces complaint
smallpox-confluent-opens  pustules  with  hands —I  write
this morning at Italian story-dine at home —Irving better
towards evening-pass the night in his room-finish Italian
story.'Malrch l1th.-Irving  seems better this  morning-very
little fever-no delirium-this day I rearrange plan of author
-dine at home-In evening Irving has more fever and a
little delirium, but soon falls asleep and awakes more composed-pass the night in his room-lhe sleeps very well.
March 11th.  Write from  five o'clock this morning at
author-Irving quite comfortable-Mr. Galignani calls this
morning about my editing suite of English authors-we cannot
agree about the first condition-viz.: an advance of ~100
-le goes off to consult Didot.
fMarch  13th.-Galignani called  to-day and  acceded  to
my terms.
Maacrchl 14th.-Write prospectus and terms for collection
of British Literature-Galignani calls and agrees to my terms
-250 francs a volume-2,500 francs in advance.
He asked an advance because he did not wish to
put his name, which  was his capital, to  a doubtful
enterprise witlout some certain remuneration.
March 15th.-Wmrite introduction to AVolfert WVebberreceived a present of hooks from  Galignani and Baudry, for
my correction of Salmagundi and  Knickerbocker, consist.
ing of thirty-three vols., octavo, elegantly bound, of choice
French authors: Racine, La Fontaine, Moliere, &c.




ET. 40.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   191
MHrch 17th. —Write a little this morning at Buckthorne
story-merely arranging it.
March 22d(.-Wrote this morning at Goldsmith's Life[for the collection of British Literature he had just agreed to
edit]-at two o'clock went to a wedding, &c.,-return home
and find letter from  Murray full of lindness and friendly pro.
fession-offers 1,200 guineas for my new work in two vols.,
without seeing it till in print.
MLrch 251h. —Arite to Murray requiring ~1,500.
I give the letter. which  shows that he had  now
abandoned his project of a second Sketch Book.
[To Joh.n Mulrray.]
PARIa, March 25, 1824.
MY DEAR SiR:
Your letter of the 18th wa.s a very gratifying one, as it so
satisfactorily accounted for a silence which quite perplexed me.
I do not regret having turned aside from  my idea of preparing
two more volumes of the Sketch Book, as I think I have run
into a plan and thrown off writings which will be more novel
and attractive.  I have tle materials for two volumes nearly
prepared, but there will yet be a little re-writing and filling up
necessary.  I hope, however, to lay the work before you in the
course of six weeks.  I tlink the title will be Tales of a Trav
eller, by Geoffrey Crayon, Gent.  Your offer of twelve hundred guineas without seeing the MS. is, I confess, a liberal
one, and made in your own gentlemanlike manner, but I would
rather you would see the MS. and make it fifteen hunedred.
Don't think me greedy after money; but in fact I have need
of all I can get just now, as I can do five pounds' worth of good




192                  LIFE AND LETTERS                     [1824.
with every pound I can spare, and since the world won't let
me live as I please, I find it very expensive to live with the
world.
Those who have seen various parts of what I have prepared, think the work will be the best thing I have written,
and that it will be very successful with the public.  An author
is not, perhaps, the best judge of his productions, otherwise I
might throw my own opinion into the scale.
I shall go on to finish the work as soon as possible, and
shall bring it over to England before long, as I can write upon
it while there, and indeed while it is printing.
I write in excessive haste to save the mail, which is nearly
closing.
Present my most kind remembrances to Mrs. Murray, and
believe me,          Dear Sir,
Very sincerely, Your friend,
WASIINGTON IRVING.
I am writing with a bewildered head and feverish hand,
having returned at almost daylight from  a fancy ball at the
British ambassador's.  The most magnificent thing I have ever
seen, and which must dazzle all Paris.




ArT. 40.]           OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                       193
CHAPTER XI.
ARRIVAL IN LONDON-LETTER TO PETER-INTERVIEW WITH MURRAY-ATTENDS
REPRESENTATION OF CHARLES II.-LESLIE -NEWTON -MOORE - WILLIAM
SPENCER-ROGERS-LADY CAROLINE LAMB-THE MAN OF MANY INVITATIONSLEAVES LONDON WITH MILLS FOR MIANOR HOUSE, LYNDHURST-GOES TO BATH
TO MEET MOORE-ELWYN'S DINNER-EXTRACTS FROM MEMORANDUM BOO —
FAREWELL TO MOORE-VISIT TO HIS DRESDEN FRIENDS, THE FOSTERS-LETTER TO PETER-MURRAY ADVERTISES SALMAGUNDI-INTENT ON LITERARY
OCCUPATION-DINNER WITH ROGERS-HIS GOOD STORY OF A FRENCH ABBB
-FALLS SHORT IN MANUSCRIPT FOR TALES OF A TRAVELLER-SUPPLIES THE
DEFICIENCY — STARTS FOR FRANCE-LETTER TO MSOORE ON THE WAYMOORE'S REPLY-KENNEY AND SCROOPE DAVIES.
-WO  months after the date of the  letter to  Murray, given  at the close of the preceding  chapter,
leaving  Peter in his bachelor quarters at No. 89 Rue
Richelieu, Mr. Irving  took  his work over to  England,
and  in  a  letter dated  London, May  31, 1824, thus
addresses that brother:
MY DEAR BROTHER:
I arrived here safe and sound on Friday evening, after a
very pleasant journey.  I saw  Murray on Saturday, and arranged the business in two minutes.  He behaved like a gentleman.  Told me he had not replied to my last letter, because
he was in daily expectation of my arrival.  That he agreed to
VOL. II.-9          (13)




194                  LIFE AND LETTERS                     [1824.
my terms without seeing the MSS.  That it could be put to
press the moment I was ready, and should be printed as fast or
as slowly as I pleased.  In a word, every thing went as
smoothly and pleasantly as heart could wish.
*      -x *  I got in time on Friday evening to see the
second representation of Charles II.  It succeeds very well,
though the critics attack the langyage.  The fact is, the first
act is extremely heavy, in consequence of being extremely ill
played.  *          - *  The second act goes off famously, and so
does the greater part of the third, in consequence of the excelient acting of Fawcett in Copp.  He makes it one of the
best things I ever saw him do.  I shall assist Payne in pruning the piece to-day, and I have no doubt it will have a good
run.  Payne intends putting it to press immediately.
Leslie has completely estallished his reputation by his
Sancho in the apartment of the Duchess.  It is a lovely painting; one of the most charming things I have seen in modern
art.  It is decidedly the crack picture of the exhibition, and is
greatly talked of.  Lord Egremont is the owner of it.  He has
taken Leslie by the hand for this year or two past in a generous manner.
*        I:t Newton's Dr. Porceaugnac is far beyond my expectations, and does him  great credit.  For composition and
execution it is far the best thing he las done; and he has
managed the subject so as to obviate the objections we apprehended.  He is getting reputation as fast as could be wished.
I am  rejoiced that I got my work ready before coming
here, or I should have been full of perplexity and annoyance,
as I am kept in a continual whirl.  Moore is in town.  I was
with him a great part of the day before yesterday; yesterdayhe passed in the country; to-day we dine together.




MT. 41.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 195
I write in extreme haste, just to give you the main points
of information. I will write fuller at more leisure.
Colonel Aspinwall tells me he has copious particulars about
Kidd to give me.
Affectionately your brother,
W. I
William Spencer has just invited me to take up my quarters at his lodgings, No. 4 Mount St., Grosvenor Square. Address to me there.
William  Spencer, here mentioned, was the author
of those exquisite lines familiar to every reader of
poetry, beginning:  "Too late I stayed-forgive the
crime."  Besides the literary characters mentioned in
this letter, his memorandum  book presents the following glimpses of Rogers, and specimens of his table talk.
Byron, it will be remembered, had  died at Missolonghi, in April, and his executors had insisted upon
the total destruction  of the Memoirs  presented  to
Moore.,Sunday, Icay 30th.-Breakfasted with Rogers in company
with Newton, Leslie, and Proctor, the poet. Rogers said that
when Lord Byron and Lady Caroline Lamb quarrelled, Lord
Byron told him when men and women fell out the one that
keeps the ground longest wins.  Lady Caroline gave in two
minutes before me.  Lady Caroline took all Lord Byron's
letters, made a funeral pyre of them, put his miniature on the
top, had a number of young girls to dance round, singing a kind
of incantation, and burnt tlem; but mark you, they were only




196                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1824.
copies, and what made the ridiculousness complete was, that
there was no one present to be taken in by it but herself, and
she was in the secret.
He said when Lord and Lady Byron separated, Byron told
all his friends, and Rogers among the number, that he alone
was to blame.
Rogers thinks Murray the great loser by the burning of the
MSS., as lie bought a post obit work not to be available until
the death of a man younger than himself; of course he ran a
great risk; unexpectedly the death of that person makes the
MSS. available in the course of a year, but he is deprived of his
bargain.
Rogers says Moore does not recollect the MSS., and he says
he does not believe he read it; as while in Paris he was so
continually engaged he had not time to read even his billetdoux.
Rogers suspected he himself is handled harshly in the Memoir, as Moore did not show it to him.
A  few days later, his Inemorandum  book contains
this further specimen of the table talk of the poet,
who, it will be remembered, was one of the men
most sought after in high society in England.
Saturday, June 5th.-Called on Rogers.  He gave me an
amusing instance of the sincerity of dinner invitations.  He
was invited by Lady J. to dine with her on a certain day. He
endeavored to excuse himself, as lie was'about to leave town
on a country excursion.  She would take no excuse; he must
come; would be glad to have him on any terms; would take




AT. 41.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 197
her chance, &c., &c.  He accordingly promised to come if he
should return from the country in time.  He was asked by
Lady B      P — to come on the same day; he made the
same excuse.  She would not listen to it; he had disappointed
her so often, he must come; she would expect him, &c., &c.
The Duchess of S         told him that when he returned to
town he must come and dine with her; she was always at
home and would always be glad to see him, &c., &c., &c.
He returned to town on the day designated in the invitations; made a morning call on Lady J.  "Well," cried
she,'"you are coming to dine; that's so good of you; that's
so friendly! "
" I will come with pleasure," replied Rogers, " if your table
is not made up; otherwise make no stranger of me; I can
dine elsewhere; Lady B-       P.  has asked me, &c., &c.
" Why, really; to treat you as a friend, we are expecting a
great many; our table is full, and if you could dine with Lady
B —; you see I make no ceremony," &c., &c.
Rogers took  his leave  good-humoredly, and went to
Lady B —.
" Ah! you are coming to say yes; you mean to dine with
us to-day; that's so good of you, I'll never forget it," &c., &c.
"Why, indeed, I have come to accept, but yet don't put
yourself to inconvenience; I can dine elsewhere."
"Why, really, we have issued invitations for as many as
our table will hold, but L. has not replied; if you could see
him, and know whether he comes or not. If he does not come
and you would take his place we would be so obliged," &c., &c.
Rogers had now his clernier resort, the Duchess of S,
who was always at home, and was always glad to see him, and
would always take it as a favor if he would come sans cere



198                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1824.
monie.   He accordingly called on her, but she never said a
word about his coming to dinner.  In fine, the man of many
invitations ate his dinner at a coffee house, and spent a dull
evening at a theatre.
Sunday, Junie 6th.-Called on Rogers and accompanied
him to his brother's at Paddington-Rogers stopping to speak
with various persons on the way-the Duke this-Sir Harry
that-stopped to hear music-observed that he liked to hear
music in warm weather-pass the White Conduit house-speculates upon the characters and concerns of people whom we
meet-tells ancecdotes of Lord Byron when he saw him at
Pisa in Italy-his sisters at dinner, and several nephews —in
evening thick fog came up-returned by coach-pretty woman
in it-Rogers facetious.
A few days after the date of this record, he writes
to Peter in a letter dated Manor I-louse, Lyndhurst,
June 10, 1824:
I passed about nine days in town, in a complete hurry. To
attend to any literary concerns was impossible.  Payne copied
part of my MS. and got other parts copied by others, excepting
about fifty pages which are to be sent to me here.  I shall be
able to forward all by the fifteenth via Liverpool.  I left London on Monday last with Mills, and got here the same day to
dinner. I have been here three days, the weather beautiful,
and have taken advantage of it to see the neighborhood.  The
scenery about here is very fine; a great deal of wild forest
land.  I am delighted with the manor house and its inhabitants. Mr. Compton * is..... a complete specimen of an En* Brother-in-law of Frank Mills, an Oxford scholar with whom he had
become acquainted at Paris. and whom he accompanied on this visit.




YET. 41.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  199
glish country gentleman.  His whole establishment is perfect
in its kind, and quite a study.  *   *  I shall stay here until
the 14th, when I go to Bath to meet Moore (whom I saw a
great deal of in London).  It will be the time of the musical
festival.  I shall pass a couple of days at Bath and then go on
to Brummy.
I shall wait a few days longer before I put my work to
press in London, as I wish the American edition to have a
little chance for a start.
From  this place Mr. Irving  proceeded  to Bath,
where he had engaged  to meet Moore, and on the
17th, we have this record in his memorandum  book.
Thursday, June 17th.-Breakfasted with Moore-rambled
together about Bath-called at Catalani's, who was not upleft Bath at eleven in post chaise with Moore for his cottagedrove through very pleasant country-Moore told me entertaining story of his becoming acquainted with a lady who had just
buried her husband-arrived at the cottage between twelve
and one-very pleasantly situated and a delightfully arranged
little retreat-we rambled about the fields and to Bowood, the
seat of Lord Lansdowne, a princely mansion of stone, with columns in front-fine park around-found Lord Lansdowne at
home, who received us very kindly-walked over the grounds
with us-pretty waterfall-wished us to stay to dinner-accompanied us part of the way back-begged me to call on him
when I came to town-returned to the cottage to dinnerpleasant dinner-in the evening a delightful walk-passed the
evening at the rectory-rector ill abed-large family of sons




200                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1824.
and daughters-very pleasant-returned home about half past
nine, and went to my room at ten, but remained reading Lord
Byron's MS. Memoirs till half past twelve.
Not the memoirs, of course, which had been destroyed, and which he had already read.
Mloore's diary of this date has the following:
June 17th. —Took Irving after dinner to show him to the
Starkey's, but he was sleepy and did not open his mouth; the
same at Elwyn's dinner. Not strong as a lion, but delightful
as a domestic animal.
Elwyn's dinner was at Bath, on the 16th, and was
given to a number of guests of both sexes.  The modest American, a stranger to all probably but Mfoore,
was not apt to " come out" on such occasions.  Indeed, it- was only in the easy familiarity of domestic
life, that he could be seen to the greatest advantage.
It was here that the riches of his conversation were
most apparent.  I-is forte in this respect, was his
hunmor; much  of which, however, was of a kind
of which language can give no idea; it was not more
in what he said, than in the way he said it; the play
of feature, the eye, the tone, the gesture.  There was
a natural, easy, delightful sportiveness about his conversation when under no restraints of form  or ceremony, a mixture of wit, whim, fun and drollery, of
which few could resist the fascination.  His vivacity,
however, was apt to desert him when lie most needed




LET. 41.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  201
it, and  especially when  among  strangers, where he
was conscious of particular or critical observation.
Moore,- on the other hand, was always a sprightly and
reliable conversationalist, and ever ready to extract
enjoyment from  the flying moment, wherever passed.
lIe seemed ever to rise in the morning, as Mr. Irving
once remarked of him, with the words of the song on
his lips:
" Say what shall be our sport to-day."
continue with the memorandum book:
June 18th.-Rose at seven-read more of Lord Byron
while dressing-pleasant breakfast-after breakfast adjourned
to Moore's study, where I prepared a despatch for Murray of
part of the MS. of Strange Stories-dined a little after two
that I might get to [blank] in time for the coach-after dinner
set off with Moore, Mrs. Moore and Mr. Brannegan accompanying us part of the way-had a very pleasant walk with
Moore through Lord Lansdowne's grounds to Mr. [blank],
where we found the coach had just passed-stopped there and
took tea while they sent for a chaise-Bowles church and par~
sonage in sight-had a pleasant gossipping cup of tea and then
took an affectionate leave of that charming fellow Moore-a
brilliant in head and heart.
From  Birmingham, where he went from  Moore's,
to make a visit of a few days to his sister's family, he
writes to Peter, July 29: "I have furnished Murray
with MSS. of part of the first volume, but have reVOL. II.-9*




202                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1824.
ceived no proof sheet as yet;" and nine days later,
we have the following letter addressed to this brother
at Havre, where he had probably gone to look after
his steamboat interest, as we may infer from the close
of the epistle. The letter touches on various literary
matters, and is dated, as will be seen, from  the residence of his Dresden friends, the Fosters, where he
was now on a visit.
BRICKHILL, near BEDFORD, July 7, 1824.
MY DEAR BROTHER:
I arrived here from town last night on a visit to my kind
Dresden friends, the Fosters, who have welcomed me as to my
own home.  I shall stay here seven or eight days at least.
I went from  Birmingham to town to put the printers in
motion, as I received no proof sheets.  It was well I did, as I
found Murray had intended keeping the work back till Novem.
ber. On finding the danger of being anticipated by an American edition, he changed his plan and has advertised it for the
first of August and set the press hard at work.  I now receive
proof sheets daily and can push the publication as briskly as I
please; but I do not wish to hurry it too quickly.  I fancy it
will appear about the tenth of August.  I shall take care to
forward sheets to America. There is no danger of the work's
being pirated in America, under any circumrstances.  The public would set their faces against it.  I am told much disappro.
bation has been expressed at the letters of Oldstyle having
been got up and published without my knowledge and consent.
I have promised Murray to prepare a corrected edition of
Salmagundi for him, with additions, such as you and I had
talked of: and have written to Paulding to hasten the essays




AET. 41.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   203
he is to contribute. I have materials enough for my part of the
job lying by me in half-formed sketches, that I should otherwise have probably made no use of.  It will, therefore, cost
me scarce any trouble, and will pay me handsomely.  Murray
is anxious to get the work out of the hands of the other booksellers, and to have my writings complete.  He has advertised
the work as in the press, with corrections and alterations, by
way of deterring other booksellers from publishing more editions.?
Campbell has promised to give me some particulars for his
biography, and I will get hints from Rogers when I go next
to town.
I am sorry not to have met you at Birmingham; though,
if you are passing your time pleasantly in Normandy, I shall
feel satisfied. Do not, however, suffer yourself to be bothered
about steamboat concerns.  If it yields you gratification and
amusement, well and good; otherwise I am convinced I can
cut out agreeable occupation for both of us, enough to employ
our time and fill our pockets.
Five days later, July 12, he writes from the same
place to Peter' I shall leave here on Thursday next for London, but
shall leave it almost immediately on a hasty excursion to Yorkshire; which performed, I shall think of getting over to France
as soon as possible, and if you are still at Havre, will come
that way.  I wish to get back to Paris, and get to work again.
I told you in my last, that I am to prepare an improved
* This project was afterwards dropped.




204                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1824.
and enlarged edition of Salnmagundi for Murray. I shall get
materials for Rogers' and Campbell's biographies in London,
and then, if I can get a quiet room at Auteuil for the month
of August, I think I can get a profitable little lot of work
done.  I feel the impulse strong on me to keep my pen
moving, and am resolved not to flag nor falter until I have
secured plenty of the needful to make life easy.
It was to' make life easy," to place himself above
the necessity of continued exertion, and out of the
reach of embarrassment, that lie proposed at this time
to avail himself of every chance of profitable literary
occupation.     I aml  anxious, at present, by  every
exertion,' is the language of another letter to Peter,
"to attain sufficient to make us both independent ior
the rest of our lives, and I think by mYaking the most
of time and opportunity, we may easily effect it."
The last entry in his memorandumn  book, gives us
a further allusion to Rogers, whose biography and
that of Campbell he was intending to prepare for the
collection of British Literature, for which Galignani
had engaged his pen, though he never got beyond a
brief life of Golclsmith, in an undertaking which soon
fell to the ground.
Called at Rogers'-found Kenney and Rogers' brother
breakfasting with himnsat and chatted till twelve-went with
Kenney  to Leslie's.-Dined with Rogers tete-ca-Jtetehe was
very critical and censorious on Moore and others-told a good
story of the French Abbes-before the French Revolution,




ElT. 41.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                    205
at the houses of the principal noblemen there would be a plate
left for some chance Abbe-and the first that arrived took it
-about dinner time you would see the Albbes [illegible] picking their way from  the top of one stone to another-ringing
or rapping at the jport-cocher, and inquiring —y-a-t-il de place?
NonI,  Monssieur; then lie would tillup onward.-On one occasion at the commencement of the revolution, there was a
party  dining —the cart went by carrying criminals to the
guillotine-all the company ran to the windows-the Abbe
being a short man tried to peep on tiptoe, but in vain, so
he went cown to the port-cocher.-As the vehicle went by,
one of the victims wllo knew the Abbe, bowed to him-the
Abb6 returned the salutation-" ~What! you are his friend-you
are one of them-away with him"-the poor Abbe was hoisted
into the cart and hurried to the guillotine. —The company
having satisfied their curiosity, returned  to the table-the
Abbe's place was vacant — la(iis oil est Mllr. l'Abbe?  Alas! the
poor Abbe. was already headless.
July 301t, he writes to Peter from  London:
I had hoped by this time to be on my way for France,
but the work has been thrown back this last week, by finding
the MSS. not sufficient to furnish matter for two octavo volumes, so I am  obliged to supply a couple of sheets for each
volume.
The first volume I help out by introduction, and by introducing passages into Buckthorne's Life.
I have just scribbled off another robber tale for thle second,
which will nearly supply the needful, and I think will increase
the effect of the third part.  It makes me feel more confident
of the series of Banditti tales.




206                  LIFE AND LETTERS                   [1824.
The moment I have corrected the last proof sheet, I
shall start.
Having risen early on the morning of August 13,
and corrected proof sheets till nine, and received Murray's drafts for the Tales of a Traveller at six, nine, and
twelve months, for 500 guineas each; he left London
at two o'clock in coach for Brighton, crossed thence
the next day to Dieppe, and the day following had
engaged lodgings at Auteuil, a few miles froml Paris,
where as we have seen, he was hoping to do a profitable lot of work.
It was at Brighton, on his way, that he addressed
to Moore this, as the poet terms it in his diary, " very
amusing letter," for a copy of which I am  indebted
to the courtesy of the poet's biographer, Lord John,
now Earl Russell.
[To Tho2mas Moore.]
BrIGHTON, August 14, 1824.
My boat is on the shore
And my bark is on the sea;
I forget how the song ends, but here I am  at Brighton just
on the point of embarking for France.  I have dragged myself
out of London as a horse drags himself out of the slough or a
fly out of a honey pot, almost leaving a limb behind him at
every tug.  Not that I have been immersed in pleasure and
surrounded by sweets, but rather up to the ears in ink and
harassed by printers' devils.
I never have had such fagging in altering, adding, and correcting; and I have been detained beyond all patience by the




,ET. 41.1         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 207
delays of the press.  Yesterday I absolutely broke away, without waiting for the last sheets.  They are to be sent after me
here by mail to be corrected this morning, or else they must
take their chance.  From the time I first started pen in  land
on this work, it has been nothing but hard driving with me.
I have not been able to get to Tunbridge to see the Donegals, which I really and greatly regret.  Indeed I have seen
nobody except a friend or two, who had the kindness to hunt
me out. Among these was Mr. Story, and I ate a dinner there
that it took me a week to digest, having been obliged to swallow so much hard-favored nonsense from a loud-talking baronet
whose name, thank God, I forget, but who maintained Byron
was not a man of courage, and therefore his poetry was not
readable.  I was really afraid he would bring John Story to
the same way of thinking.
I went a few evenings since to see Kenney's new piece,
the Alcaid.  It went off lamely, and the Alcaid is rather a
bore, and comes near to be generally thought so.  Poor Kenney came to my room next evening, and I could not have believed that one night could have ruined a man so completely.
I swear to you I thought at first it was a flimsy suit of clothes
had left some bedside and walked into my room without waiting for the owner to get up; or that it was one of those frames
on which clothiers stretch coats at their shop doors: until I
perceived a thin face sticking edgeways out of the collar of the
coat like the axe in a bundle of fasces.  He was so thin, and
pale, and nervous, and exhausted-he made a dozen difficulties
in getting over a spot in the carpet, and never would have accomplished it if he had not lifted himself over by the points of
his shirt collar.




208                 LIFE AND LETTERS                    11824.
I saw Rogers just as I was leaving town.  He told me he
had seen you, and that the christening was soon to take place.
I had not time to ask Rogers any particulars about you,
and indeed he is not exactly the man from whom I would ask
news about my friends.  I dined tete c-tete with him some time
since, and he served up his friends as he served up his fish,
with a squeeze of lemon over each. It was very piquant, but
it rather set my teeth on edge.
I hope you are working at Lord Byron's life.  Sheridan's
can keep without disadvantage, but now is the time to work at
Lord B. so as to bring it out before the interest shall have died
away, or that others shall have usurped the public mind with
respect to him.
I met Mrs. Brannegan one evening at the opera, and on
parting inquired her address.  I was too busy to call for a day
or two, and made my call the very day she hlad departed.
Farewell, my dear Moore.  Let me hear from you, if but a
line; particularly if my work pleases you, but don't say a
word against it. I am easily put out of humor with what I do.
Give as much love to Mrs. Moore as it is respectable in a husband to countenance, and tell her I have ordered a copy of my
work to be sent to her,
Yours ever,
WASHINGTON IRVING.
The following is Mloore's reply:
1824.
MY DEAR IRVING:
I take the opportunity of a packet to Paris to tell you that
your book is delightful.  I never can answer for what the public will like, but if they do not devour this with their best ap.




2ET. 41.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   209
petite, then is good iwriting, good fim, good sense, and all
other goods of authorship thrown away upon them.  I had to
listen to. Lord Lansdowne the other evening reading over
whole pages of Buckthorne which I already knew by heart,
but which he seemed so pleased with that it would have been
a sin to stop him. Luttrell also has been warm in your praises,
and altogether your muse, I think, treads upon velvet.
WTe have had Bowood swarming with aristocracy and wit,
and I have been gallanting the fair Genoese, Madlle. Durazzo,
to mass [at Wardour] and other gayeties.  Lord Bath's also
has been among my visiting places, and upon the whole I have
been quite as idle as I ought not to have been.
Your lively letter from Brighton was far too sprightly to
be kept under cork, and accordingly it effervesced out at Bowood, much to poor Kenney's exposure and the delight of
every one. I never read anything so good even in your books.
That " infidcls scurrac," Kenney (as I could collect from Rogers),
showed me up for the dinner I made my good-natured friend in
Cleveland Row give you all.  It was an officious trick of me,
I own.
We had little Russell christened while Lord John was
here, and I am. afraid he will be a chip of the old block, for he
was laughing at the parson all the time of the operation.
God bless you, my dear Irving,
Ever heartily yours,
THIOMAS MOORE.
Bessy likes you rather too well to make her praise of your
book worth much, but she is enchanted.
VOL. II.-(14)




210              LIFE AND LETTERS              [1824.
The dinner here alluded to, is touched upon in
Mr. Irving's diary in this way: "Dined  at Mr.
Moore's, near the park-with Kenney, Moore, Newton,
and Fitzroy Stanhope-sat long at table-talk about
Scroope Davies-from thence went to Mrs. Story's to
supper-all the party dull and heavy."  In conversation I have heard him allude to Kenney's annoyance
at an incessant interchange of anecdotes about " Scroope
Davies," that was kept up between Moore and Fitzroy
Stanhope, whom Moore included at the last moment in
the dinner, at first intended only for Kenney, Newton,
and Irving, which would have made "a good ensemUble."  Fitzroy Stanhope, was a stranger to all but
Moore, and did not fit in to the party. HIe was decidedly de trop for the "unrestrained flow of soul"
which Kenney  and the other two had promised
themselves.  "You have spoiled the dinner," said
Mr. Irving to Moore, when he told him  of the innovation; "he is a stranger to us all and will not be of
accord." " Never you fear," said Moore, " we'll spread
him over the scale, like a false note in music."  But I
was right, said Mr. Irving, in relating the anecdote;
"it spoiled the dinner."  " Oh! " said Kenney to him
on their way to Mrs. Story's, "it was nothing but
Seroope Davies this, and Scroope Davies that; they
killed me with their Scroope Davies." It was probably after this infliction that Kenney related the
anecdote, which I quote from Moore's diary, and which




AT. 41.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                211
may have had a significance which Moore knew  how
to interpret, when he wrote his letter to Mr. Irving.
Kenney mentioned to-day Charles Lamb's being once bored
by a lady praising to him such a " charming man!  &c., &c.,
ending with: " I know him, bless him! " on which Lamb said,
"Well, I don't,'but damn him at a hazard! "
Kenney was no doubt ready with a similar chance
imprecation upon Scroope Davies, specimens of whose
wit formed the burden of the feast.
In a letter received by Mr. Irving soon after from
Newton is this passage: " When you see Kenney give
my best regards to him.  I hope he has recovered
entirely from  Scroope Davies; his friend Stanhope is
looking remarkably well."




212                  LIFE AND LETTERS                     [1824.
CHAPTEIR  XII.
PUBLICATION OF THE TALES OF A TRAVELLER-LETTER TO MRS. PARIS-HIS
OPINION OF THE TALES OF A TRAVELLER-DEATH OF LOUIS XVIII.-PASSES
TWO DAYS IN THE OLD CHATEAU OF USSE-THE DUCHESS OF DURAS-DESCRIPTION OF HIS BACHELOR ESTABLISHMENT IN PARIS-INTERRUPTIONS OF
SOCIETY-HIS EVIL GENIUS-DOWNHEARTED-LETTER TO PIERRE PARIS IRVING
-LETTER TO LESLIE-LETTER TO BREVOORT-CLOSE OF 1824.
HE  Tales of a Traveller was published in London,
on the 25th of August, in two octavo volumes,
and  at a price fixed  by  Murray  which  occasioned
some murmurs, though it sold rapidly.  In New York,
it was published in four parts; the first part, consisting  of  Strange  Stories, by  a  Nervous Gentleman,
August 24;  the  second  part, Buctlthorne and  his
Friends, Sept. 7; the third part, The Italian Banditti,
Sept.  25;  and  the  fourth, The  Money  Diggers,
October 9; this last, nearly seven weeks later than the
appearance of the entire volumes in London.
The reputation of the author was fully kept up by
the work, but it did not excite so much surprise, and
consequently obtain as much popularity with the public, as his  previous  productions:  "wherein,'  says




.ET. 41.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   213
Newton, in a letter dated October 7, 1824;'" you will
only find the lot of all popular writers when they give
the  world  a work, however well executed, but resembling in its nature what they have already done;
the better, the worse for themn."  Newton thought he
never did anything better than  The Bold  Dragoon;
" the dance of the furniture is capital indeed;"' Buckthorne, too," he says, " and  all the  Money  Digging
part told  amazingly well," but, he adds " the young
Italian  seemed to be as much. a favorite as any.  I
heard Hallam  quoting it the other day, as one of the
finest specimens of your writing."
[To Mirs. Catharine Paris.]
PARIS, Sept. 20, 1S24.
MY DEAR SISTER:
*, *    I returned a few  weeks since from  England
where I went to publish my last work.  -  *  It has been a
great comfort to me that for nearly a year past I have had
Peter with me.  I trust we shall continue for the future together.  *  *
Since my recent return from England, I have been residing
at a very pleasant village [Auteuil] in the neighborhood of
Paris, that I might be quiet and might keep clear of tle
crowd and dissipation of the metropolis.  Peter remains at the
apartments in Paris, but comes out on Saturday afternoon and
stays until Sunday morning with me; and I sleep occasionally
in town.  In this way we manage to live very pleasantly, and
what makes it particularly agreeable to me is that I am  perfectly tranquil, and freed from thle necessity of receiving and




214                  LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1824.
paying visits and going into society, which of late years has
been a perfect harassment to me.
Long before this reaches you, you will have had my last
work, the Tales of a Traveller.  I am  happy to hear that it
sells rapidly in England.  I do not know how it may please
you, as it is written in a different mood from my late works.
Much of it was written rapidly.  For my own part, I think
there are in it some of the best things I have ever written.
They may not be so highly finished as some of my former
writings, but they are touched off with a freer spirit, and are
more true to life; for they are the transcripts of scenes that I
have witnessed.
October 5th. —I have suffered this letter to lie by me, and
will add a little more to it before I send it off.  WVe have had
much bustle in Paris of late, between the death of one king and
the succession of another.  I have liecome a little callous to
public sights, but have, notwithstanding, been to see the funeral
of the late king, and the entrance into Paris of the present one.
Charles X. begins his reign in a very conciliating manner, and
is really popular.  The Bourbons have gained great accession
of power within a few years.
But to descend from  kings to humbler personages.  Peter
and myself intend setting off in a few days on a ten days' tour
to Orleans, Tours, and some of the finest parts of Touraine, the
centre and garden of France.  After this we shall go into
winter quarters at our apartments in Paris. * * e
October 24th. —WTe have just returned to Paris from a nine
days' excursion along the Loire and through some of the loveliest scenery of Touraine. ~' *  The weather, for the greater
part of the time, was serene and delightful, with that golden
autumnal tint that gives such a richness to fine scenery.  I




JET. 41.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                     215
never have been more interested by a tour; we have been
through scenes full of historical interest, and have visited towns
and castles famous il story, as well as striking and picturesque
in themselves.  We passed part of two days in a very interesting and gratifying manner in the old chateau of Usse. It is an
old castle belonging to the Duke of Duras, and one of the most
romantic piles from  its architecture, situation, and the scenery
it commands, that I have ever beheld.  It stands on the slope
of a richly-wooded line of hills, looking over a vast, luxuriant
valley, through which the noble stream of the Loire flows in
quiet majesty; while a beautiful little tributary stream  called
the Indre winds along one border of the valley and passes
~under the very terraces of the castle.  The chateau is built of
cream-colored stone, which, though many centuries have passed
since its construotion, retains its original tint and freshness.
The towers are singularly picturesque; and the terraces, the
avenues, and the rich groves about the castle give it a most
proud and lordly air.  It is, however, going to ruin; one wing
only has a suit of apartments in tolerable repair, and with fur.
niture tarnished and neglected.  The rest of the castle is used
partly as store rooms and granaries for the estate, and the concierge (or overseer) and his family reside in the centre.  The
duke visits the estate once or twice a year, but the duchess,
whose health is delicate, has not been at it for several years.
The fortunes of the French nobility have been so scanty of late
years, that even those who halve conserved or regained their
paternal estates cannot afford to repair them or to keep up the
necessary household establishment.  The Duke of Duras, whose
fortune has been improved since the restoration of the Bourbons, talks much of repairing this beautiful chateau, but I fear
it will eventually share the fate of most of the other French




216                 LIFE AND LETTERS                      L1324.
chateaux.  The Duchess of Duras is one of the finest women
of France, idolized in the world of taste and literature, and
extolled for her exemplary and amiable, character.  She has
written several little works that are much esteemed; and her
house is the resort of the most elegant; and accomplished society of Paris.  She had given me a letter to the concierge of
the castle, and on presenting it, the old establishment was, in a
manner, surrendered to my command.  There were no regular
servants there; but the family of the old concierge took every
pains to accommodate us; his son and a rustic lad waited on
us, and altogether we made a most comfortable as well as a
most interesting visit.  We rambled over the old apartments,
and the grass-grown terraces and avenues of the castle, and
among pines and fig trees laden with their fruits; and in the
evening had a blazing fire lighted for us in the library.  I do
not know when I have bccn lodged so much to my humor; and
I only regretted that my arrangements obliged me so soon to
leave such a curious and interesting place.
I have given you this little incident of our tour with some
detail, as I thought it would be more interesting to have one
point treated a little minutely, than to have the whole briefly
skimmed over.
WYe are now  settled in town for the winter; though the
weather just now is so mild and delightful that I cannot but regret the country.  You would be amused if you could look in
upon our bachelor establishment. The mode of living here is so
different from that in America that it is difficult to give a correct idea of it.  *  *  *  My apartment is up several pairs of
stairs, what you would think the garret in America, yet it consists of several rooms opening into each other, excellently well
fitted up and finished, and very prettily furnislled.  T have my




ZET. 41.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 217
kitchen included in the range of my chambers; and the main
door of tie suite of rooms, which opens from a little ante-chamber on the landing place of the great staircase, is, as it were,
the street door to my premises, and excludes the world.
I have a French servant woman, who is my cook, butler,
valet-ce-chambre, and footman; who keeps everything in the
neatest order, and chatters even faster than she works.
Thus we manage to live very comfortably, and have our
separate rooms, where we can occupy ourselves as we please
without interfering with each other; and need not meet except
at meal times.  The great national library (one of the very
best in the world) is within five minutes' walk of my lodgings,
and I have the privilege of having any books from it I please.
I should enjoy myself completely here, if the world would let
me be quiet; the chief drawback on my comfort is the continued interruption of society, which, in a great metropolis like
this, is a serious grievance to any one who has acquired a little
notoriety.  I endeavor as much as possible to keep clear of the
whirl, and to be master of my time and of myself; but with all
my exertions I find it impossible to avoid being carried away
occasionally by the current.
The author, however, was doomed to more serious
annoyances than the interruptions of society; annoyances which touched too deeply his sensitive nature.
The Tales of a Traveller, which in his view, as we
have seen in the letter just quoted, contained some of
the best things he had ever written, found little favor
with some of the British critics; and in his own country,
which felt a generous pride in his extended reputation,
VOL. IT.-10




218                 LIFE AND LETTERS                   [1824.
it had hardly proceeded to the publication of the first
and second parts, before he was told there were some
" violent demonstrations of hostility" on the part of
the press.
A  leaf in his note-book  gives the following disclosure:
NAovember 23d.-WVent to Galignani's-met my evil genius
there, who told me the critics were attacking me like the devil
in England-returned home for a short time but could not remain-downhearted.
The letters which follow, though varying in tone
and character, are all more or less colored by the same
" downhearted" feeling.
The first is addressed to a nephew, now  the Rev.
Pierre  Paris Irving, a clergyman  of the Episcopal
church, who, at the early age of eighteen, had ventured
into print in some contributions to a little periodical,
called The Fly, which ran through five numbers and
expired.
PARIS, Dee, T. 1824.
MY DEAR PIERRE:
I have long intended to answer your letter. but. I am so
much occupied at one time and interrupted at another, that I
am  compelled to be a very irregular correspondent.  I have
been much gratified by the good accounts I hear of you from
various quarters, and have been pleased with the little periodical work which you sent me, which gave proof of very promising talent.  I am  sorry, however, to find you venturing into




JET. 41.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                    219
print at so early an age, as I consider it extremely disadvantageous.  I would have you study assiduously for several years
to come, without suffering yourself, either by your own inclinations or the suggestions of your friends, to be persuaded to commit the merest trifle to the press.  Let me impress this most
earnestly upon you. I speak from observation and experience
as to the pernicious effects of early publishing.  It begets an
eagerness to reap before one has sown.  It produces too often
an indisposition to further study, and a restless craving after
popular applause.  There is nothing that a very young man
can write that will not be filll of faults and errors, and when
once printed they remain to cause him chagrin and self-reproach
in his after years.  The article you wrote in the periodical
work, for instance, was very clever as to composition, and was
all that could be expected from a writer of your age; but then
you showed yourself ignorant of music, though you undertook
to satirize a musical performance; at a riper age you would
not have committed this error.  The composition you were
ridiculing must have been one of the sublime productions of
Handel or Haydn, and the performer, whose gesticulation you
describe so extravagantly, must have been the leader of the
band, who by look and sign has to regulate the performance of
the whole band, keep them all in time, and direct their style of
playing, according to the expression of the music.  I mention
this only to let you see how readily one is betrayed into error
by writing, or rather publishing, at an early and uninformed
age.
I hope, however, your literary vein has been but a transient one, and that you are preparing to establish your fortune
and reputation on a better basis than literary success.  I hope
none of those whose interests and happiness are dear to me will




220                   LIFE AND LETTERS                      [1824.
be induced to follow my footsteps, and wander into the seductive but treacherous paths of literature.  There is no life more
precarious in its profits and fallacious in its enjoyments than
that of an author.  I speak from  an experience which may be
considered a favorable and prosperous one; and I would earnestly-dissuade all those with whom  my voice has any effect
from trusting their fortunes to the pen.  For my part, I look
forward with impatience to the time, when a moderate competency will place me above the necessity of writing for the press.
I have long since discovered that it is indeed "vanity and
vexation of spirit."
I trust you will take a wiser and surer course.   If you
have entered upon the profession of the law, fit yourself for the
exercise of it by profound and extensive study; do not rest satisfied with the mere technicalities of it; but enter widely into
the noble studies connected with it.  Discipline yourself well;
consider what you have learned at college as merely preparatory to a wider range of inquiry.  Makle yourself an excellent
scholar, and store your mind with general, yet accurately acquired and well-digested information.  Do not meddle much
with  works of the imagination.   Your imaugination  needs
no feeding; indeed it is a mental quality that always takes
care of itself; and is too apt to interfere with the others.
Strengtlhen your judgment; cultivate habits of close thinking;
and in all your reading let KNOWLEDGE be the great object.
F feel myself called upon to urge these matters; because,
fron some passages in your letter, it would seem that some idle
writing of mine had caught your fancy, and awakened a desire
to follow my footsteps.  If you think my path hlas been a
flowery one, you are greatly mistaken; it has too often lain
among thorns and brambles, and been darkened by care and




JET. 41.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                    221
despondency.  Many and many a time have I regretted that
at my early outset in life I had not been imperiously bound
down to some regular and useful mode of life, and been thoroughly inured to habits of business; and I have a thousand
times regretted with bitterness that ever I was led away by my
imagination.  Believe me, the man who earns his bread by the
sweat of his brow, eats oftener a sweeter morsel, however
coarse, than he who procures it by the labor of his brains.
I wish to impress these matters upon you, because you are
the eldest of your father's family.  The oldest son should consider himself the second father of the family.  I am anxious to
hear of your making a valuable practical man of business, whatever profession or mode of life you adopt; and that by your example and your attentions you may guide and instruct your brothers.  Our country is a glorious one for merit to make its way
in, and wherever talents are properly matured, and are supported by honorable principles and amiable manners, they are
sure to succeed.  As for the talk about modest merit being
neglected, it is too often a cant, by which indolent and irresolute
men seek to lay their want of success at the door of the public.
Modest merit is too apt to be inactive, or negligent, or uninstructed merit.   Well-matured and well-disciplined  talent is
always sure of a market, provided it exerts itself; but it must
not cower at home and expect to be sought for.  There is a
good deal of cant, too, in the whining about the success of forward and impudent men, while men of retiring worth are
passed over with neglect.  But it happens often that those forward men have that valuable quality of promptness and activity, without which worth is a mere inoperative property.
A barking dog is often more useful than a sleeping lion.
Endeavor to make your talents convertible to ready  use,




222                  LIFE AND LETTERS                      [1824.
prompt for the occasion, and adapted to the ordinary purposes
of life; cultivate strength rather than gracefulness; in our
country it is the useful, not the ornamental, that is in demand.
I will now advert to another thing which is very near to
my heart, and a constant cause of solicitude.  There is a large
family connection of you growing up.  I wish to urge the cultivation of a common union of interest and affection among you.
The good of one should be considered the good of the whole.
You should stand by each other in word and deed;'in evil report and in good report; " discarding every petty spirit of jealousy; promoting each others' happiness, and building up each
others' prosperity.  In this way you may contribute wonderfully to each others' respectability and success in life.  Endeavor also to make the name you bear one that shall be
synonymous with honor, sincerity, and perfect faith. Whatever
be your dealings, public or private, let no temporary advantage, however flattering, entice you away from  the strict line
-of open probity.  However great the immediate sacrifice, frank
and open truth always gains in the end.  *  *  *
Give my best love to the family, and believe me ever,
Your affectionate uncle,
WASHINGTON IRVING.
[To C. R. LesUie.]
PARIS, Rue Richelieu, No. 89, Dec. 8th, 1824.
MY DEAR LESLIE:
I have been for a long time intending to write to you, but
my spirit has been so inert as not to be able to summon up
a page full of ideas.  However, as Brockedon is on the point
of starting, and will take a letter free of cost, I will scrawl a
line, if it is only in testimony of constant recollection.




AET. 41.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 223
The " Childe " has given me a mere inkling of his northern
visit, just enough to tantalize curiosity. I wish you would give
me a few anecdotes on the subject.  You must have had
a rare time; and I envy above everything your residence at
Abbotsford.  I am told, the Great Unknown was absolutely
besieged by a legion of "panthers," that you really surrounded
him; one taking a point-blank elevation of him in full front,
another in profile, another in rear; happy to sketch a likeness
whichever side presented.
To you the visit must have been peculiarly interesting and
advantageous; for knowing your taste and turn of mind, I
am -sure you would find Scott full of precious matter, and
would derive a world of valuable hints from your conversation
with him. I long to hear something of your visit at Abbotsford, and would give anything for a good long talk with you
on the subject.
I wish your "Sancho" were here in the exhibition.  I
should like to hear what the Frenchmen would say to it; it
is so infinitely better than anything which they think good,
that I doubt whether they would know how to appreciate it.
There are two of Lawrence's paintings here, but the French
pass by without noticing them.  The only remark I heard
made, was from two Frenchmen, on Lawrence's head of the
late Due de Richelieu.  One looked at it with a screw of the
mouth, "Pas mnal, said he; "some affectation, something of
coloring," and so they passed on.
Have you begun your new picture for Lord Egremont?
Brockedon speaks with great emphasis of your'Autolycus.'
I do not know whether you have done anything to it since
I saw it, or whether he means the picture in its half-finished
state.  I certainly think your head of'Autolycus' one of your




224                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1824.
happiest efforts of character and expression.  But, in fact, you
have now but to dash boldly at whatever you conceive; you
have the power of achieving whatever you attempt,' and the
certainty of having whatever you achieve appreciated by the
public.
When you see Newton, remember me affectionately to him.
Let me know what he is doing, and how he is doing it.  I
often look back with fondness and regret on the times we lived
together in London, in a delightful community of thought and
feeling; struggling our way onward in the world, but cheering
and encouraging each other.  I find nothing to supply the
place of that heartfelt fellowship. I trust that you and Newton
have a long career of increasing success and popularity before
you.  Of my own fate I sometimes feel a doubt. I am isolated
in English literature, without any of the usual aids and influences by which an author's popularity is maintained and
promoted.  I have no literary coterie to cry me up; no
partial reviewer to pat me on the back; the very review of
my publisher is hostile to everything American.  I have
nothing to depend on but the justice and courtesy of the
public* and how long the public may continue to favor the
writings of a stranger, or how soon it may be prejudiced by
the scribblers of the press, is with me a matter of extreme uncertainty.  I have one proud reflection,.however, to sustain
myself with-that I have never in any way sought to sue the
praises nor deprecate the censures of reviewers, but have left
my works to rise or fall by their own deserts.  If the public
will keep with me a little longer, until I can secure a bare
competency, I feel as if I shall be disposed to throw by the
pen, or only to use it as a mere recreation.  Do write to me
soon.  I long to hear from you.  How often do I miss you




ZET. 41.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   22;
in mnoments when I feel cast down and out of heart; and how
often at times when some of the odd scenes of life present
themselves, which we used to enjoy so heartily together.
Remember me most particularly to your sister.  It is with
the greatest concern that I have heard of the afflicting loss
which both of you have sustained; and I only forbear to dwell
on it because I know that in cases of the kind, all consolation
by letter is mere idle formality. God bless you, my dear Leslie,
Believe me, most constantly and affectionately yours,
V. I.
P. S. —My brother is with me, and desires to be particularly remembered to you.
Three days later, he wrote as follows:
[To Henry.Brevoort.]
PARIS, RUE RICnELIEU, No. 89 Dec. 11, 1824.
e   a  e  I cannot tell you what pleasure I have received
from  long chats with Lynch * about old times and old associates.  His animated and descriptive manner has put all New
York before me, and made me long to be once more there.  I
do not know whether it be the force of early impressions and
associations, or wllether it be really well-founded, but there is
a charm about that little spot of earth; that beautiful city and
its environs, that has a perfect spell over my imagination.
The bay, the rivers and their wild and woody shores, the
haunts of my boyhood, both on land and water, absolutely
have a witchery over my mind.  I thank God for my having
Dominick Lynch, of New York.
VOL. II.-10*       (15)




226                  LIFE AND LETTERS                     [1824.
been born in so beautiful a place among such beautiful scenery;
I am convinced I owe a vast deal of what is good and pleasant
in my nature to the circumstance.
I feel continually indebted to your kindness for the interest
you have taken in my affairs, and in the success of my works
in America.   I begin to feel extremely anxious to secure a
little income from  my literary property, that shall put me beyond the danger of recurring penury; and shall render me independent of the necessity of laboring for the press. I should
like to write occasionally for my amusement, and to have the
power of throwing my writings either into my portfolio, or into
the fire.  I enjoy the first conception and first sketchings down
of my ideas, but the correcting and preparing them  for the
press is irksome, and publishing is detestable.
My last work has a good run in England, and has been extremely well spoken of by some of the worthies of literature,
though it has met with some handling from  the press.  The
fact is, I have kept myself so aloof from  all clanship in literature that I have no allies among the scribblers for the periodical press; and some of them  have taken a pique against me
for having treated them a little cavalierly in my writings.
However, as I do not read criticism, good or bad, I am out of
the reach of attack. If my writings are worth anything, they
will outlive temporary criticism; if not, they are not worth
caring about. kSome parts of my last work were written rather
hastily; yet I am convinced that a great part of it was written
in a freehand happier vein than almost any of my former writings.  *  *  *  I fancy much of what I value myself upon in
writing, escapes the observation of the great mass of my readers,
who are intent more upon the story than the way in which it is
told.  For my part, I consider a story merely as a frame on




JET. 41.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING                   227
which to stretch my materials.  It is the play of thought,
and sentiment, and language; the weaving in of characters,
lightly, yet expressively delineated; the familiar and faithful exhibition of scenes in common life; and the half-concealed vein
of humor that is often playing through the whole;-these are
among what I aim at, and upon which I felicitate myself in proportion as I think I succeed.  I have preferred adopting the
mode of sketches and short tales rather than long works, because I choose to take a line of writing peculiar to myself,
rather than fall into the manner or school of any other writer;
and there is a constant activity of thought and a nicety of execution required in writings of the kind, more than the world appears to imagine. It is comparatively easy to swell a story to
any size when you have once the scheme and the characters in
your mind; the mere interest of the story, too, carries the reader
on through pages and pages of careless writing, and the author
may often be dull for half a volume at a time, if he has some
striking scene at the end of it; but in these shorter writings,
every page must have its merit. The author must be continually
piquant; woe to him if he makes an awkward sentence or writes
a stupid page; the critics are sure to pounce upon it. Yet if he
succeed, the very variety and piquancy of his writings-nay, their
very brevity, make them frequently recurred to, and when the
mere interest of the story is exhausted, he begins to get credit
for his touches of pathos or humor; his points of wit or turns of
language.  I give these as some of the reasons that have induced me to keep on thus far in the way I had opened for myself;
because I find by recent letters from E. 1. that you are joining in the oft-repeated advice that I should write a novel. I
believe the works that I have written will be oftener re read
than any novel of the size that I could, have written. It is true




228                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1824.
other writers have crowded into the same branch of literature,
and I now begin to find myself elbowed by men who have followed my footsteps; but at any rate I have had the merit of
adopting a line for myself, instead of following others.
Three days after the date of this letter, his diary
has this record:
"Dec. 14th.- Received  letter from   New  York,
signed  a friend,' enclosing scurrilous newspaper tirade
against me."  Repetitions of such " friendship" left no
doubt of its malignant origin, and the ill-will displayed
by its continuance, combined with the services of his' evil genius" at Galignani's, to which allusion has been
already made, will help to interpret the extracts which
follow from his diary, closing his record of the year.
Dec. 28th.-Returned homerfind letter to Peter from
Beasley, enclosing  American  paper [no  doubt containing
another attack].  29th.-A  restless, sleepless night, full of
Uncomfortable thoughts-woke before four-studied Spanish
after breakfast-took lesson from eleven to twelve-went to
Galignani's-read a very favorable critique on French translation of Tales of a Traveller-two French translations have
appeared-called at Mr. West's [William E. West, the American artist —Mrs. Patterson sitting for her picture.-Lynch
there-stayed till half past three-walked in Palais Royalreturned home-dined with Peter-studied Spanish in the
evening-a triste day, though laughed a good deal both at
West's and at dinner-a merry head may sometimes go with
a heavy heart.  30th.-Rather low  in spirits-but frequent




,]T. 41.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   229
gleams of resolution and self-promises of better things.  31st.Retire to bed at eleven-this has been a dismal day of depression, and closes a year, part of which has been full of sanguine
hope, of social enjoyment, peace of mind, and health of body;
and the latter part saddened by disappointments and distrust
of the world and of myself; by sleepless nights and joyless
days.  May the coming year prove more thoroughly propitious I




230                   LIFE AND LETTERS                      [1825.
CHAPTER XIII.
EXTRACTS FROM DIARY-WEST-MEDWIN-ANECDOTE OF GENERAL JACKSON AT
NEW ORLEANS-LETTER TO PIERRE PARIS IRVING-OVERTURES FOR A LIFE
OF WASHINGTON-UNABLE TO APPLY HIMSELF-PAULDING'S REBUKE -DISASTROUS INVESTMENTS-DETERMINES TO GO TO WORK-LEAVES PARIS WITH
PETER FOR BORDEAUX-THE VINTAGE-AMERICAN ESSAYS-AN ILL-BODING
FAILURE-FURTHER EXTRACTS FROM DIARY-CLOSE OF 1825.
f EELINGS of depression continued to weigh upon
-  his mind, as will appear from  some of the extracts fiom  his diary, which follow:
Feb. 5th, 1825.-A  good night-mind excited-thinking
over project of an American work-Spanish  lesson —called
at WVest's-Mr. Lynch and Miss Caton sitting.
Feb. 6th.-Read Spanisl all the mornilng-Calderon's play
of Las Mfanos Blancas-talked with Peter about Cervantes' life
-[a theme for his pen which had been suggested by Murray
and which was afterward adopted by Lockha.rt].
Feb. 10th.-Called at West's-found the daughter-in-law and
granddaughters of Lafayette there-accompanied the Storrows
to see WVest's pictures.
Feb. 14th.-Studied  Spanish  all the  morning-Latin —




JET. 41.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   231
*  *  went with Lynch to Pasta's-found her by her fireside
-simply dressed-simple in her manners.
Feb. 16th.-Awake with low  spirits, as is too frequently
the case of late-read in Calderon-study Spanish during the
morning-a misty, chilly day-feel great depression all the
day-called on West —had much conversation about Lord
Byron, whom  he describes as amiable, kind, and affectionatedined at home with Peter.-In evening took Sam. Storrow to
Gaiete.
Feb. 17th.-Slept well; though awake several times-did
not read-still I awoke very much depressed-that continual
want of confidence either in myself or the public-cheerless
prospects-Spanish lesson-studied Spanish-Latin.
Feb. 19th.-Dined at Galignani's-Sir Egerton Brydges
and Mr. LUnderwood, and Peter-Sir E. said Medwin showed
him  the MS. of his recollections [of Byron], but withdrew
them before he had time to revise them-received letter from
proprietor of European Magazine, requesting me to sit for
portrait to be engraved, and for biographical particulars.
Feb. 24th.-Dined at Lord Northland's-Present...
Col. Thornton, attached to the embassy-Col. Thornton commanded the troops which crossed the river at New Orleansspeaks highly of conduct of Jackson in his correspondence with
British-letters courteous-sent back watches, epaulettes, &c.,
of officers killed-epaulettes of one officer had been cut off,
-apologized for not sending them-said diligent search should
be made, and if found, they should'be sent and the offender
punished.
March 4th.-Dined with Peter at Mr. Storrow's-saw Peter
and Mr. S. off in malle-poste for Calais.  [Peter, from whom he




232                  LIFE AND LETTERS                   [1825.
was now to be separated for some months, was proceeding to
his sister's at Birmingham.]
lactrch 14th.-Received letter from  Peter-Medwin has
arrived-have not met him.
Mlfarch 16th.-Medwin  breakfasted with  me-thinks of
writing an answer to Hobhouse-talked of Spanish literature
-speaks of a play by Calderon called sometimes El Emnbozacdo
and at other times El Ccpotado.-Lord Byron thought of
writing something on it-Medwin promised to procure me a
MS. he had written on the subject.  AWent with him  to
WVest's-he pronounced the likenesses of Lord Byron and the
Guiccioli admirable.
Mlarch 19th. —Wrote letter to P. Irving-dozed-felt sad
and heavy.
fiarch 23d.-Re-write two chapters of Virgin tale..farch 24th.-Called on 0Medwin —he gave me his note
concerning El Embozcado-*  *  *  Have thought this day
of plan for dramatic work on story of El Embozado.
~March 25th.-Called at West's-sketched there a part of
plan of Embozado.  28th.-Tried to sketch plot of Embozado,
but could not bring my mind to the task.  29th. —        rote
letters to E. I. [his brother Ebenezer], and Pierre [his nephew
Pierre Paris Irving,- the eldest son of Ebenezer].
I give this last letter from  a copy placed in my
hands by the party to whom  it is addressed.  The
reader will remember that in a previous letter, to the
same juvenile correspondent, his uncle had rather rebuked his premature literary outbreak.  In this communication, he touches, among other things, on the
subject of languages.




LET. 41.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   233
[To Pierre Paris Irving.]
PARIs, March 29, 1825.
MY DEAR PIERRE:
I am very much gratified by your letter; it is full of good
sense and good feeling.  You have taken the observations of
my former letter, however, much too strongly, if you have suffered them to produce any thing like mortification. They were
rather meant to warn you for the future, not to censure you for
the past; I had felt in my own case how insensibly a young
man gets beguiled away by the imagination, and wanders from
the safe beaten path of life, to lose himself in the mazes of literature.  Scarcely any author ever set forth with the intention
or surmise of becoming such; he becomes so by degrees; and
I have seen enough of literary life to warn all of those who are
dear to me, should I see any danger of their straying into it.
UJpon the whole, I am glad that you have entered into
your father's counting house.  You will there have a certain
and prosperous path in life marked out for you, instead of
having to adopt and clear away a doubtful one for yourself.
You will, in all probability, have the means of living independently, and indulging your tastes and talents at an age when,
in another line of life, you might have the whole struggle of
existence before you.  In our country, too, a commercial life
does not imply the abandonment of other paths of honorable
ambition.  Many of our most valuable public men have been
merchants; and, indeed, there are few men who have greater
influence in our community than individuals who combine the
intellectual requirements of the scholar with the practical habits
of the man of business and the moneyed influence of the man of
wealth.  There is no city in the world which presents a fairer




234                 LIFE AND LETTERS                   [1825.
scope for honorable emulation to the intelligent and enlightened
merchant, than New  York.  Its vast and rapidly increasing
prosperity; the wide extent of its commercial connections and
commercial influence; its multiplied internal and external relations, point it out as the great metropolis of North American
trade. What must be the importance and power of such a city
in a Confederated Union like ours; what must be the importance of its leading citizens, both in matters of commerce and
of politics; its merchants must become like the merchants of
the old commercial republics of Europe-men fit to entertain
and to confer with princes.
I am glad you do not relinquish your studies.  On the contrary, task yourself to become a valuable man at all points.
Make yourself diligent and exact in business; inform yourself
well in all matters connected with it; don't play the gentleman
merchant, but while in the counting house apply yourself as
closely and punctually as if you were a hired clerk and depending upon your good conduct for your place.  When you have
leisure, do not waste it in idle society; by idle, I mean what is
termed fashionable society. Of all places I was ever in, New
York is one where more time is wasted at that precious period
of life when the seeds of knowledge are to be sown, and the
habits formed that are to determine the character and fortunes
of after life.  I speak this from sad experience.  How many
an hour of hard labor and hard study have I had to subject
myself to, to atone in a slight degree for the hours which I
suffered society to cheat me out of.  Young people enter into
society in America at an age that they are cooped up in schools
in Europe.  Do not waste your evenings in parties of pleasure;
devote as much as possible to valuable reading.  Take care
not to lose what you learned at college.  Keep up your knowl



ET. 41.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   235
edge of the learned languages, and endeavor to advance in
them.  Read history regularly and attentively.  As your time
for reading will be limited, do not waste it on any reading but
such as will go toward informing your mind, and improving
your taste.  Do not read for mere amusement.  Do not seek
to feed the imagination; that will always extract food for itself
out of the sternest studies.  Do not read for the purpose of
mere conversation the popular works of the day, reviews, magazines, &c.  Be content to appear ignorant of those topics
rather than read through fear of appearing ignorant. The literature of the day is always the most piquan.t, the most immediately interesting, but is generally transient; it soon passes
away and leaves no general knowledge, no permanent topic in
the mind; and then it is so copious; if one yield his attention
to contemporary literature, he is overwhelmed with it.  Make
yourself, on the other hand, well acquainted with the valuable
standard authors, which have stood the test of time; they will
always be in fashion; and in becoming intimately acquainted
with them, you become intimately acquainted with the principles of knowledge and good taste.  It is like studying the
paintings and statues of old masters.  Read such works as are
connected with the moral and political history of England, for
they are all full of application to our own national character
and history, and they tend to awaken calm and deep thinking,
and to produce that enlarged and independent mode of considering subjects that becomes a freeman.
I suppose you know something of modern languages; French
and Spanish are the most important to an American merchant.
French, in fact, is the great medium  of general conversation
throughout the world, and should be completely mastered.  It
is one of the most difficult, unless taken up at an early age, on




236                  LIFE AND LETTERS                      [1825.
account of the nicety of its sounds, or rather half sounds; all
other languages have a fulness of tone that the ear and the
tongue catch pretty soon; but the French, with its semi-tones,
is barbarous on an unpractised tongue.  It is the most limited,
too, of modern languages, abounding in constructions and terms
of expression and idiomatical phrases, to supply the defect of
its paucity of words; these make it a barren language in the
mouth of any one who is not well. acquainted with its idioms,
and who has not studied it well.  But as the course of events
has made it a universal language, in preference to others which
are more sonorous and copious, it is necessary to become well
acquainted with it.  The Spanish language, on the contrary, is
full of power, magnificence, and melody.  To my taste it excels the Italian in variety and expression.  It has twice the
quantity of words that the French has.  I do not know anything that delights me more than the old Spanish literature.
You will find some splendid histories in the language, and then
its poetry is full of animation, pathos, humor, beauty, sublimity.
The old literature of Spain partakes of the character of its history and its people; there is an oriental splendor about it.
The mixture of Arabic fervor, magnificence, and romance, with
old Castilian pride and punctilio; the chivalrous heroism; the
immaculate virtue; the sublimated notions of honor and courtesy, all contrast finely with the sensual amours, the self-indulgences, the unprincipled and crafty intrigues, which so often
form the groundwork of Italian story.
With all the charms of Italian literature, the greater part
of its belles-lettres is unfit for youthful reading, particularly for
female reading; it depicts a most immoral and despicable state
of society; it breathes profligacy. The Italian language is rich
in historical works.  As far as I can judge from my own read



JET. 41.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  23Y
ing, the literatures the most free from licentiousness in morals
are the Spanish and the German.  The Spanish, because the
greater part was written at a time when romantic notions pre
vailed in Spain of manly honor and female virtue; and the
German, because almost all its belles-lettres have been produced
within the last fifty years under the restraints of modern decency.  I don't know  any dramatists who have written so
much, and whose writings are so free from  anything that
would' call up a blush on the most sensitive cheek, as old Calderon among the Spaniards and Schiller among the Germans,
and I do not know any that have shown a freer scope of imagination and finer sallies of language.
But I am running away into a kind of dissertation, when I
only meant to make an incidental remark on the subject of languages.  Make yourself well acquainted with the French and
Spanish, as they may be useful to you as a merchant.  I again
repeat, devote as much of your time as you can spare from
business and healthfll exercise, to the storing your mind with
valuable information, such as will make you a useful man and
an important member of a busy community. Do not be impatient to enter into society and make a figure in drawing
rooms. A man can seldom figure to any purpose until he has
acquired the knowledge and experience of years; and as to the
trifling distinction that a clever young man sometimes gains, it
is transient; often injurious to himself, and never conducive to
any valuable and permanent result.
There is a set of you now growing up, who, if you are true
to yourselves and to one another, cannot fail to make a flourishing and most respectable family connection. I trust you will
have a more easy time and more steadfast fortunes than the set
who have preceded you, and who are gradually moving off of




238                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  L1825.
the scene as you enter upon it. Our lives have been checkered.
*   *   *  But whatever we have had of prosperity, and of respectability in the eyes of our fellow citizens, I ascribe in a great
measure to a principle of mutual interest and mutual assistance
that has prevailed among us.  It has been one of the greatest
sweeteners of our hours of success, and the greatest comforters
of our days of adversity. It is one that grapples me to brothers
with the tenderest of ties, whenever I remember all that they
have been to me; and that fills my heart with love and my
eyes with tears whenever I think of your uncle William, whose
character and conduct should be held up as an example to the
family.  *  *       *
Give my love to your mother and all the family.
Your affectionate uncle,
WASHINGTON IRVING.
In July of this year, Mr. Irving, still at Paris, received overtures fiom Constable for a Life of Washington, while at the same time Murray hoped seriously
that he had not been idle, and that he would allow
him  to look for a communication from  him    on the
subject of an original work," which he was "happy
to say the public would be mnuch delighted to receive."
But he was not at all anxious to undertake  anything for publication at this period of his career.  HIe
had in fact become distrustful of the continuance of
public favor,.and under the discouragement of some
ill-natured flings from  the American press, and the
persevering malevolence of the anonymous individual,
who was assiduous in forwarding them, le had lost




MET. 41.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   239
heart in his vocation, and lacked the needed stimulus
to exertion.  His old fiiend and literary associate, to
whom he had given expression to his doubts and misgivings, rebukes the cloudy humor in  the following
characteristic fashion.
It gives me some little dissatisfaction to perceive [writes
Paulding, Sept. 3] that you suffer yourself to be influenced in
the pursuit of a great object by the squibs and crackers of criticism.  For my part I have not, like you, been sufficiently
praised to feel much the want of it; I am  a hardened sinner,
and if I know myself, care very little about the decisions of
tribunals whose judgments can eventually have little influence
on the opinions of posterity.  Whatever little rubs of this kind
you may receive, place them to the account of the spleen and
envy of unsuccessful rivals, who not being able to raise themselves to you, seek to bring you down to them.  As to the
voice of your own country, it is entirely in your favor.  She is
proud of you, and the most obscure recesses of the land, even
old Sleepy Hollow, are becoming almost classical, in consequence of the notice you have taken of them.  Old Knickerbocker will last forever, as the great popular work of this
country, quoted by wags for its humor, and referred to by historians for its accuracy.  You know I am rather a cynic than
a flatterer, and you ought to know that of all men I would not
flatter you.  Your works continue to be regularly called for
and sold, now that the moment of novelty is passed, and this is
the best indication of a substantial reputation.
It was not, however, " the squibs and crackers of
criticism't that most disturbed  the susceptibility of




240               LIFE AND LETTERS                 [1825
the author, but he had seen attacks upon himself, as
he says in a letter some years later to Brevoort, " on
points independent of mere literary merit, and on points
where,' he adds, "I know  myself to be free from
fault.   To  me," he continues, " it is always ten
times more gratifying to be liked than to be admired;
and I confess to you, though I am  a little too proud
to confess it to the world, the idea that the kindness of
my countrymen toward me was withering, caused me
for a long time the most dreary depression of spirits,
and disheartened me from  making any literary exertions."
It was unfortunate for the  easily disheartened
author, that he was tempted, during this period of inaction of the pen, to seek other paths to independence
for himself and Peter.  The latter, on the 4th of March,
after a term  of suffering and confinement in their
quarters at Paris, had sought his sister's roof at Birminghamn, for quiet and relief from an obstinate malady,
which was to cling to him with intermitting tenacity
for the remaining thirteen years of his life.  "I am
glad to hear the Baron [his brother-in-law, Van Wart]
is making arrangements for the shipments," writes
Washington to him, May 14; " I feel confident that a
few well managed operations of the kind will produce
all that is necessary to make you feel comfortable and
independent."  In the next letter, he informs him of his
having made, under the sanguine representations of a
friend, an investment " in the Bolivar copper mine."




JET. 42.]       OF WASHINGTON IRVING.              241
I think it probable," is his cheering language to
Peteri, " I shall hold my shares as a permanent investment, for if the anticipations of    and  -    are but
half realized, my fifty shares will give me a very pretty
little sum annually."  This letter concludes: " I have
not changed apartments, nor shall I for the present.
I would rather see how our affairs turn out. If the
nets we have spread catch any fish," &c.  Alas for
the adventurous investments! which proved only a
source of anxiety and loss.
In August, Peter, now  at HIavre, was already
suffering apprehensions of disappointment in regard
to his "late shipments," and Washington, fearing to
be straitened by the very means he had taken to occupy the mind and cheer the spirit of his brother in his
illness, was begitinig to " feel power and confidence to
write, and had made up his " mind to go to work."
" I think we must manage to see the vintage at Bordeaux," he writes to Peter, August 26,' though for
the present I lhave given up the idea of my Spanish
tour, and am determined not to make it until I have
wielded the pen a little, and at least earned the cost
of the expedition."
On the 22d of September, the two brothers left
Paris, and on  the 30th reached  Bordeaux, where,
under the auspices of their hospitable friend, M1r. Guestier of Chateau Margaux, they saw the vintage.
"I enjoyed my stay at Medoc," he says in a letter to Mrs.
o.T,.  TT. 1 1  (1 %I




242                  LIFE AND LETTERS                    [182.5.
Foster, "where I might be all day by myself if I pleased in
one wing of a great French chateau, or galloping at random
about those vast heaths, called the Landes, which had something grand in their space and silence.'
I close the history of this year with a few extracts
from  his diary while in this city, where he remained
four months.
October 31st.-Dined at Mr. Johnson's with the Guestiers
-before dinner, Mr. Guestier mentioned the contents of a
letter from  Beasley from  London, containing the disastrous
intelligence of the failure of Samuel WVilliams-passed a restless night-my mind haunted by apprehensions of evil.  [He
feared that his own fortunes and the fortunes of relatives were
entangled in this calamity.]
Nov. 1st.-Tried to write this morning, but the news of
Mr. Williams' failure had incapacitated me-in evening tolerably
tranquil in mind, though full of doubts.
Nov. 24th.-In bed this morning thought of a plan of a
miscellany —talked over the name at breakfast with Peterthe plan developed in the progress of conversation-both felt
cheered and animated by it-write late at night on Essaysgo to bed after twelve-some time before I can get to sleepmake notes, &c.
Nov. 25th.-Awoke early-made notes for Essays —2iemt.;
last night dreamt of being in a large old house-found it giving
way above-escaped and saw it falling to ruins-it took firethought all my property and especially my manuscripts were
in it-rushed toward the house exclaiming,. am now not worth




.ET. 42.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  243
a sixpence-found one room of the house uninjured, and my
brother, E. I., in it arranging papers, wiping books, &c.-told
me that he had just managed to save everything that belonged
to us by putting them into this one room that remained uninjured.
This dream was doubtless occasioned by my letter to E. I.
written yesterday, requesting him in case of difficulty to place
my literary property, &c., in the hands of Brevoort, or J. T. I.
[John T. Irving].
Nov. 26th.-Awoke early-mind  busy-made notes in
memorandum book-after breakfast wrote at my Essay-naval
remarks-walked out at three o'clock-called on Mr. Strobel
and looked for lodgings-dined at table-d'hote —napped —went
to Caf —read newspapers-took coffee-returned home and
wrote until past twelve o'clock-ever since I have resumed my
pen, my spirits have revived and my mind is rising into tone.
Nov. 27th. —Did not get asleep until near two-woke at
four-made notes for American Essays-after breakfast wrote
a little.
NAov. 28th. —Write this morning at Essay on Mannerspaid off bill at Hotel de France, and moved to lodgings No
24 Rue Roland-second floor-two rooms at fifty francs c
month.
NAov. 29th.-Slept well last night-write at the American
Essays.
Nov. 30th. —Slept well —mind tranquil-write this morning at Essay on treatment of strangers in America.
Dec. 1st.-Write a little  at Essays-subject, national
prejudices.
Dec. 3d.-A night of broken sleep, though not of uneasy
thoughts-write at Essay.vs till one.




244                  LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1825.
Dec. 9th.-A night of broken sleep and uneasy thoughts —
dreamt I was at Wrelles, who was making out an accountnervous in the morning, but excitable —scribbled a little on
Essays-subject, theatres-made minutes for Essay on effect
of natural scenery on character-get extremely excited-Mr.
Guestier came in and sat some little while-found afterwards
that I could not write.
Dec. 10.th —Full of excitement, and anxious to sketch Essay
on American scenery but harassed by noises in the houses,
until I had to go out in despair, and write in Mr. Guestier's
library.
Dec. 25th.-Christmas-    "   For some time past, indeed ever since I have resumed my pen, my mind has been
tranquil.  I sleep better and feel pleasanter.
Saturday, Dec. 31st.- Trite letters —walk out-fine cool
weather-all the world  buying bonbons-dined at homeafterwards walked out with Mr. Johnston, accompanying him
through Boutiques of bonbons-evening at Mrs. Johnston'splay chess-in the night, military music in the street-serenading the commandant, who lives opposite.  So closes the
year —tranquil in mind, though doubtful of fortune and full of
uncertainties —a year very little of which I would willingly live
over again, though some parts have been tolerably pleasant.




.ET. 42.]          OF WASHINGTON!RVING.                       24
CHAPTER XIV.
LETTER TO ALEXANDER -H. EVERETT-EXTRACTS FROM DIARY —A TRANSLATION
OF NAVARRETE SUGGESTED TO HIM BY  I R. EVERETT-LETTER THEREUPONMURRAY'S ENTANGLEMENT-LETTER TO LESLIE —LESLIE'S REPLY-ARRIVAL
AT MADRID-THE AMERICAN CONSUL, 0. RICH-DETERMINES UPON A REGULAR
LIFE OF COLUMBUS-LITERARY ACTIVITY-DIVERTED FROM COLUMBUS TO
CONQUEST OF GRANADA-LIEUTENANT ALEXANDER SLIDELL-CLOSE OF 1826.
T        was'during this period, while busying himself on
these American Essays, none of which have ever
appeared in print or been preserved, that le addressed
the  following  letter to  Mr. Alexander  H. Everett,
Minister Plenipotentiary of the Inited  States at 3Madrid, whom  he had met in Paris in the summer of 1825.
[To Alexander -I. Everett.]
BOR.DEAUX, Jan. 12, 1826.
MY DEAR SIR..When writing to you a day or two since I felt disposed to
make a request, but a scruple of diffidence and delicacy withheld me.  Perhaps I gave that scruple too great importance,
so I will at once make my request, and if there is the least
difficulty or objection to complying with it, do not hesitate
frankly to say so.  You mentioned last summer that should
you come to Spain, you would attach me to the embassy, by




24a                  LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1826.
way of a protection.  Now being so near Spain, and having a
strong inclination to visit it, I may be induced to do so in the
course of the spring, should circumstances permit.  This will
depend entirely upon letters which I am waiting here to receive, and which will determine my movements.  Could I
come into Spain at once I would do so, but it is out of my
power.  As I may enter Spain by the Mediterranean Sea, and
make a tour before visiting Madrid, it would be perhaps an advantage and protection to me in the present state of the country, to be able at any time to announce myself as attached to
the embassy.  May I therefore consider myself as an attache,
and can I be so attached while at a distance, and before coming
to Madrid.  I am quite ignorant whether there are any forms
necessary, or whether it does not rest with the minister by his
mere word, expressed or written, to attach whom he pleases to
his mission. At any rate, as this is a mere matter of travelling
accommodation, I do not wish any trouble to be taken about it,
nor that it should cause any departure from common usage and
etiquette. -So, as I said before, if there is the least shadow of
objection, do not hesitate to say so, and there let the matter
end. With kind remembrances to Mrs. Everett and your
niece,              I am, my dear Sir,
Very truly your friend,
WTASHINGTON IRt.ING.
In the interval between the date of this letter and
that which is to succeed, his diary gives the following
insight into his literary occupation.
January 12th.-Wrote comparison of patriot and demagogue.




AET. 42.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   247
Mfonday, January 16th.-Retouched and altered story of
French Emigre.'Thurscay, January 19th.-Wrote all the morning at Essay
on American Rural Life.
Janzuary 20th. —Wrote all day at Essay on Union.
21st.-Finished Essay on Union.
22d.-Wrote at Essay on Public Prosperity.
23d.-Continued Essay on Public Prosperity.
24th.-Wrote a little at Probity of Dealings, but was fidgety and could not get on.
25th.-Finished Essay on Probity.
26th.-Wrote at Essay on National Character-made but
little progress.
27th.-Teased myself all the morning trying to write on
Naval Essay-got out of all mood and went out.
28th..Tried to write on Essays, but gave up in despair.
29th.-Wrote all day at Essay on Navy, and finished it at
five oclock.
Monday, 30th.-Added some passages to Essay on Navyreceived letter from Mr. Everett, attaching me to embassy at
Madrid, enclosing passport, and proposing my translating voyage of Columbus.
31 st.-Wrote  letter to Mr. Everett-re-wrote part of
Essay on Education of Youth.
The letter of Mr. Everett, proposed a translation of
Navarrete's Voyages of Columbus, which were about
to appear, and suggested the probability of his receiving ~1,500 or ~1,000 for it.  It found him, as we see,
engaged upon another literary theme, which he did




248                  LIFE AND LETTERS                   [1823.
not propose to abandon in embracing this, though such
was the result.  The allusion to Murray at the close of
the letter I now  give, will be understood when the
reader is informed that ullrray was about setting up
a newspaper, for which, as Mr. Irving was informed by
one of his correspondents, he had already deposited
~40,000 in the Bank of England.
[To Alexander II. Everett, U. S. fiznister at lfcadrid.]
BORDEAVX, January 31,1826.
MY DEAR SIR:
I feel very much obliged to you for the passport you have
been so prompt in forwarding to me, and am highly gratified
in being attached to a legation that is so ably and creditably
filled. I must return you my thanks also for the literary undertaking you have suggested to me.  The very idea of it
animates me; it is just the kind of employment I would wish
at present for my spare hours.  I will thank you, therefore, to
secure it for me.  I shall write immediately to London to have
propositions made to Murray, and, in case he does not accept
them, to some other eminent publisher.  I doubt whether I
shall be able to get as much as you suppose for a translation,
as there is always a chance for competition and piracy; but, be
that as it may, there is something in the job itself that interests
and pleases me, and will assist to compensate me for my trouble.
I feel the more emboldened to take hold of the thing from my
brother's having promised to assist me in it, so as to enable me
to execute it speedily and yet not negligently, and at the same
time without suffering it to interfere entirely with other pursuits.  My brother is but slightly acquainted with the Spanish




A.T.42.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 249
language, sufficiently, however, to render me great service occasionally, and he will improve in the language if he exercises
it.  We shall leave this for Madrid as soon as possible, and
shall come on by diligence.
-        Ad *  You will perceive by the papers the failure of
Constable and Co. at Edinburgh, and Hurst, Robinson, and
Co. at London.  These are severe shocks in the trading world
of literature.  Pray Heaven Murray may stand unmoved and
not go into the Gazette, instead of publishing one.
The invocation with which this letter concludes,
was well-nigh prophetic.  A  year later, Murray explains sone remissness to Mr. Irvingas follows:'" One cause of my not writing to you during one
whole year was my " entanglement,' as Lady G ~
says, with a newspaper, which absorbed my money,
and distracted and depressed my mind; but I have cut
the knot of evil, which I could not remedy, and aim
now,'by the blessing of God," again returned to
" reason and the shop."
Three days after the date of this letter to Mlr.
Everett, IMr. Irving finished the Essay on the Education of Youth, on which he was engaged at the time,
and which, like the others recorded in his diary, was
" water spilt upon the ground," and the next day he
writes as follows:
[To C.. Leslie.]
BORDEAUX, Feb. 3, 1826.
MY DEAR LESLIE:'  e  -. - There is a very interesting work printing at
Madrid,' The Voyage of Columbus," compiled from his papers
VOL. T1.- 1*




250                  LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1826.
by the famous Bishop Las Casas, and in part composed of extracts from Columbus's journal.  It is in Spanish, and I have
undertaken to translate it into English; Mr. Everett, our minister at Madrid, having secured it for me.  I wish you to make
an arrangement with Murray at once for the purchase of the
translation, or, if he will not buy it, with Longman or Colburn.
I am told it will make about two octavo volumes. Mr. Everett
thinks I ought to get fifteen hundred or a thousand guineas for
it.  I shall be content with the last sum.  I should have written to Murray on the subject, but I have had such repeated
instances of his inattention to letters, and have been put so
much back thereby, that I won't trust to correspondence any
more, either with him  or any other bookseller.  As the case
admits of no delay, I wish you to see him at once. You had
better drop him  a line, letting him know you have a literary
proposition to make on my part, and requesting him to appoint
an hour when you can find him at home.  IWhichever bookseller
you make an arrangement with, get him to announce the work at
once as preparing for publication by me. Let me hear from you
as soon as possible; direct to me, "Legation des Etats Unis
d'Amerique, a Madrid."  I set off for.Madrid in the course of
three or four days.  My brother accompanies me.  Air. Everett has attached me to the Legation, which will be of service
to me in travelling and residing in Spain. I am sorry to inflict such a job upon you, but the case is urgent, and so are my
necessities. If I can be of any use to you in Spain in return,
either in finding you a part of Don Quixote's armor, or the
very helmet of Mambrino, command me.
To this Leslie replies:




XAT. 42.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 251
LISON GROVE, Feb. 23, 1826.
MY DEAR IRVING:
A week elapsed after I received your letter before I could
obtain a sight of Murray, although I called on him and left a
note requesting him to let me know when I might.  He says
it is impossible for him to judge of the value of Columbus's
Voyage until he sees it. It might be very interesting or it
might be very dry; he, therefore, cannot make any arrangement until it is done, and that you alone can be the only judge
at present whether or not it is worth doing.  He had told Mr.
Rogers (whom I saw a day or two since) that you had written
to him on the subject, and Rogers said to me he thought it
would be more advisable for you not to make any bargain
until you had done it; as you would then stand a better chance.
In consequence of this opinion, I think I had better not apply
to any of the other booksellers until I hear from you again;
and the truth is, they are all just now in so great a panic, occasioned by the recent failures here, that it is no time to get
them to undertake anything.  Murray says he does not know
whom to trust among them.  He would gladly, he says, receive anything from you of original matter, which he considers certain of success, whatever it might be; but with regard
to The Voyage of Columbus, he cannot form any opinion at
present.  Let me know as soon as possible what I am to do
farther for you in this business, and it shall be done without a
moment's delay.
Eight days before the date of this letter Mr. Irving
had reached Madrid, and two days after his arrival he
had hired apartments under the roof of the American
consul, 0. Rich, Esq., to use the language of his pref



252               LIFE AND LETTERS               [lS26.
ace to Columbus,' one of the most indefatigable bibliographers in Europe, who, for several years, had
made particular researches after every document relative to the early history of America.  In his extensive
and curious library," continues the preface, "i I found
one of the best collections extant of Spanish colonial
history, containing many documents for which I might
search elsewhere in vain."  Such was his situation
when, soon after his arrival, the publication of IA. Navarrete made its appearance, which he found, to quote
again his own words,' to contain many documents
hitherto unknown, which threw additional light on the
discovery of the New World; " but " the whole " presenting " rather a mass of rich materials for history
than a history itself.  And, invaluable as such stores"
might be " to the laborious inquirer,7 the sight of
" disconnected papers and official documents " had the
effect to make him hesitate in his intended translation;
and  on  the 25th  of the following month, I find
by his note-book that he had abandoned the idea, and
was already engaged in making researches, examining
manuscripts, and taking notes for a regular Life, which
he trusted would be more acceptable to others, as it
was undoubtedly a more satisfactory occupation to
himiself.
From this date until the 1st of September, laying
aside his " American Essays," which he never resumed,
he labored unremittingly at his task, with the exception
of an excursion of a few days in August to Segovia.




AET. 43.]     OF WASHINGTON IRVING.             253
Sometimes he would write all day and until twelve at
night; in one instance his note-book shows him to have
written from five in the morning until eight at night,
stopping only for meals.
It was during this interval of intense literary activity that, in passing through Madrid in a youthful tour
in Europe, the writer of the present memoir came unexpectedly upon Mr. Irving, whom he had supposed to
be still in France. I found him in the midst of books
and manuscripts, full of the subject on which he was
engaged, and in excellent spirits, though once, in a
long walk which we took together on the Prado, he adverted with deep feeling to the cloud which had been
thrown over him  by the persevering malignity with
which all sort of disagreeable things had been forwarded to him from America by some secret enemy. He
felt this the more keenly, perhaps, from the total absence of everything of the kind in his own nature.
He could not, I am  satisfied, have harbored malice
toward his worst enemy. Alluding to this inexplicable
persecution, one of his correspondents remarks: " Even
you have enemies, and who then can escape?'
My stay in Madrid was short, as I had already
passed some time in other parts of Spain, and was now
on my way to Paris.  On the ninth of August, six
weeks after I parted with Mr. Irving, it appears by
his note-book that his attention was diverted to the
Conquest of Granada, at which he commenced at once,
and on which he worked incessantly, with the excep



254                 LIFE AND LETTERS                 [1826.
tion of an excursion of four days to the Escurial in October, until the 18th of November, when, having conmpleted a rough sketch of the work, he threw it aside to
resume his Columbus; and on the 22d of December he
wrote to Murray, informing him, rather prematurely,
as the sequel shows, of the work being nearly ready
for the press.
Six weeks previous to this date, Lieutenant Alexander Slidell (afterwards Mackenzie), of the United States
Navy, arrived in Miadrid, and during his stay furnished
for the appendix of Mr. Irving's work what the author
styles, in the revised edition of 1850, " the very nmasterly paper on the route of Columbus."  It was after
his departure from  Madrid that he met with tie robbery, of which he gives such a graphic account in his
Year in  Spain, an  interesting work, of which   tr.
Irving wrote a review  for the London Quarterly in
1831.
The record of December 30 in the author's notebook is as follows: "All day at Columbus," and the
closing record of the year is:
Columbus-go out-return home and write a little, but
sleepy and go to bed-and so ends the year 1826, which has
been a year of the hardest application and toil of the pen I
have ever passed. I feel more satisfied, however, with the
manner in which I have passed it than I have been with that
of many gayer years, and close this year of my life in better
humor with myself than I have often done.




.eT. 43.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   255
CHlAPTER XV.
PASSAGES FROM LETTERS TO PIERRE 3IUNRO IRVING-LETTER TO BREVOORTALLUSION TO COOPER, HALLECK, BRYANT, PAULDING-LETTER TO MIURRAY,
OFFERING COLUMBUS-EXTRACTS FROM DIARY-LONGFELLOW-ARRANGEMENT
WITH MURRAY FOR COLUMBUS-WILKIE-LITERARY PROJECTS-CLOSE OF THE
YEAR 1827.
TlHE  labors of the author on Columbus were by no
means so near their completion as he had supposed when he wrote to Murray.  A  few extracts from
his letters to myself, to whom  he was thinking of committing the superintendence of its publication in London, when he supposed he was finishing his task, will
serve to throw light on this portion of his literary history:
[To Pierre A]funro Irving.]
Jfanuary 18th, 1827.  *  e        I had hoped by this time
to have had Columbus ready for the press, but there are points
continually rising to be inquired into and discussed, which cause
delay; and I played truant to my main work for two or three
months and rambled into another, which is all sketched out in
the rough, so that -Columbus has yet to receive the finishing
touches.  I received a letter from  Murray the day before yesterday on the subject of Columbus. He is extremely anxious




256                 LIFE AND LETTERS                   [182T.
to receive it as soon as possible, that he may put it immediately
to press.  I have felt very much worried and perplexed how
to manage, as I should have to get the work copied here to
send out to America, and that would cause great delay.  Your
letter from Paris has arrived in the very critical moment to put
me at my ease; I must get you to superintend the publication
of my work in London, correcting the proofsheets, &c.  As
you will be able to decipher my handwriting, and from your
knowledge of languages will be able to see the quotations in
Spanish, Italian, &c., are printed correctly, I need not lose time
in getting it copied here.  You will send out proofsheets to
E. Irving as fast as they are printed, for the work to be reprinted in America.  Thus you see you will really be of vast
service to me, and the task I impose on you will give you a
curious peep into some departments of literary life in London.
e  e  This arrangement will enable me to forward my
work by piecemeal as I get it ready, and will greatly expedite
its publication, while it will make me feel easy as to the manner in which it will be brought out in London, which I should
not have done had I committed it to the superintendence of
strangers.  It will probably be a month yet before I have any
of it ready to forward, and as there are always preparations to
be made with printers, &c., I think that there is no likelihood
of its going to press until some time in March, if so soon.  I
will write to you again, however, shortly, and wish you not to
leave Paris until you hear from me.
MADirID, Feb. 22, 1827.
e   In my last I wished you to attend to the correcting
of the proofsheets of my work on Columbus while printing in
England, and expected by this time to have had a considerable




TT. 43.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  257
part of the manuscript in the printers' hands.. I have been disappointed.  I have been obliged to wait for a sight of documents, and then to make considerable alterations.  I find the
finishing off of a work of the kind involving so many points
foreign to my usual course of reading and pursuits, requires
time and care; and above all, I find it next to impossible to
procure copiers in this place.  I have been for four or five
weeks past endeavoring to get manuscript copied, and lhave
not yet succeeded in getting twenty pages.  This delay is extremely irksome to me, as I wish to get the work of f ofmy
hands and leave Madrid, and indeed to make a rapid tour and
leave Spain as soon as possible.
While these obstacles occur to delay the forwarding my
manuscript to England, I do not wish, in case you should have
received my previous letter, to interfere with any of your travelling plans.  Follow  your own inclinations.  Let me hear
from you, where you are and what are your plans, and if I can
get my- work copied and sent off soon, I may yet require your
aid while in England; but that must depend entirely upon
your movements and convenience.  e. 
I have been wTorking very hard at the History of Columbus, and have had to re-write many parts that I had thought
finished, in consequence of procuring better sources of information, which threw new light upon various points.  It is a kitd
of work that will not bear hurrying; many questions have
been started connected with it which have been perplexed by
tedious controversies, and which must all be looked into.  I
had no idea of what a complete labyrinth I had entangled myself in when I took hold of the work.
VOL. II.-(17)




258               LIFE AND LETTERS                   L1827.
In a subsequent letter, Alarch 20th, he gives up all
idea of forwarding the manuscript to me:
I have repeatedly [he says] made efforts to hurry forward,
but have every time lost ground by making errors or omissions, which obliged me afterwards to go over the same ground
again.  *   a  I have now got a copying machine, and will
be able to strike off copies of the remainder of my work as fast
as I make corrected transcripts of the chapters.  Still I find
time runs away insensibly, and week slips after week without
my bringing my labors to a close.
It was at a period when he had given up all
thoughts of expediting the publication of his Life of
Columbus that Mr. Irving addressed the following letter to Brevoort,from whom  he had just heard in explanation of a long and to him  unaccountable silence.
The American reader may be interested in its mention
of Cooper, Hlalleck, Bryant, and Paulding-names, all
but the last, which had grown into fame since he left
his native land:
MAIrDnI, April 4, 1827.
MY DEAR BREVOORT:
Your letter of the 1st January was one of the most acceptable that I ever received.  e   The letter you sent to
me to the care of Mr. Welles never reached me, and for upwards of two years I had no reply to the letters and messages
which I sent you. *  
Various circumstances had contributed to render my mind
morbid and susceptible on this point [Brevoort's long silence];




.ET. 44.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  259
and I must confess that for a time I gave too much consequence to the attacks I had seen upon myself in the press, and
to anonymous letters which I received from  some malevolent
person seeking to persuade me that I was in a manner cast
off by my countrymen.  I am conscious that my long absence
from  home has subjected me to unfavorable representations,
and has been used to my disadvantage. A man, however, must
have firmness enough to pursue his plans when justified by his
own conscience, without being diverted from  them  by the idle
surmises and misconceptions of others.  If my character and
conduct are worth inquiring into, they will ultimately be understood and appreciated according to their merits; nor can anything I could say or do in contradiction place them an iota
above or below their real standard.  With the world, therefore, let these matters take their course; I shall not court it
nor rail at it; but with cherished friends like yourself, my dear
Brevoort, the present feeling is all-important to me.  Do not
let yourself be persuaded, therefore, that time or distance has
estranged me in thought or feeling from my native country, my
native place, or the friends of my youth.  The fact is, that the
longer I remain from  home the greater charm  it has in my
eyes, and all the coloring that the imagination once gave to
distant Europe now  gathers about the scenes of my native
country. I look forward to my return as to the only event of
any very desirable kind that may yet be in store for me.  I do
not know whether it is the case with other wanderers, but with
me, the various shifting scenes through which I have passed in
Europe have pushed each other out of place successively and
alternately faded away from  my mind, while the scenes and
friends of my youth alone remain fixed in my memory and my
affections with their original strength and freshness.  Had cir



260                  LIE'  AND LETTERS                    [1827.
cumstances gone with me as I at one time anticipated, I should
before this have returned home, but I have been disappointed
and delayed, and disheartened.  I have suffered my pen for a
time to lie idle, distrusting both myself and the world.  About
eighteen months since I was aroused from  a state of morbid
apathy by the failure of Mr. WAilliams, and the apprehension
that I should be involved in the distresses of the times.  I
again took up my pen, though with a reluctant hand, but the
exercise of it gradually brought me into a more healthful tone
of spirits.  Since my arrival in Spain (about fifteen months
since), I have principally been employed on my Life of Columbus, in executing which I have studied and labored with a patience and assiduity for which I shall never get the credit.  I
am  now  advancing tovward the conclusion of my work.  How
it will please the public I cannot anticipate.  I have lost confidence in the favorable disposition of my countrymen, and look
forward to cold scrutiny and stern criticism, and this is a line
of writing in which I have not hitherto ascertained my own
powers.  Could I afford it, I should like to write and to lay
my writings aside when finished.  There is an independent delight in study and in the creative exercise of the pen; we live
in a world of dreams, but publication lets in the noisy rabble
of the world, and there is an end to our dreaming.  x  *    
Since my arrival in Spain, I have been completely immersed in old Spanish literature.  My residence under the roof
of Mr. Rich, the American consul, has been particularly favorable to my pursuits; he is a diligent collector of rare worls,
and has the most valuable works in print and manuscript of
the Spanish writers.  -'
I left Paris a considerable time before the arrival of Mr.
Cooper, and regret extremely that I missed him.  I have a




AET. 44.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   261
great desire to make his acquaintance, for I am delighted with
his novels; at least with those which I have read.  His Mohegans, which I am told is his best, I have yet to read.  His
naval scenes and characters in the Pilot are admirable.  I am
fond of the sea, and have seen a little of nautical life, and am
therefore more able to appreciate them.  I have been charmed,
likewise, with what I have seen of the writings of Bryant and
I-Halleck.  Are you acquainted with them?  I should like to
know something about them personally; their vein of thinking
is quite above that of ordinary men and ordinary poets, and
they are masters of the magic of poetical language.
I have not heard for some time past from  Paulding.  His
last letters were full of kind feeling and interesting anecdotes 
I am too glad to find that he is settled in the old homestead of
the Kemble family, that scene of so many happy hours. As to
his retired mode of life, I fancy it is the happiest when a man
has a family for his world, books at his elbow and his pen as
an amusement.  I have not seen two or three of his late publications.  All of. those that I have met with bear his usual
stamp of originality, his vein of curious and beautiful thought,
his turns of picturesque language, mingled with the faults that
arise from  hasty and negligent composition.  Early habit and
associations have given a charm to his writings in my eyes; I
always find in them passages that strike on some chord of old
remeInbrance.   
P. S.  I have written much of this letter in an open and
garrulous vein about my private feelings.  I trust you will receive it with indulgence, and show it to no one.  I never had
any reserve with you and I write to you as I used to talk,
without caring to disguise any error or weakness.




2 62               LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1827.
In one of the last letters which Mr. Irving had received from his old friend and fellow laborer, Paulding,
after mentioning the death of his father-in-law, Mr.
Kemble, and his transfer from Washington to the city
of New York, with the appointment of Navy Agent,
writes: " In the division of the estate, the old house
which we have so often haunted in Whitehall street
has fallen to my share.  Here I have set up my tent,
and, if living in a great house constitutes a great man,
after the fashion of New York, a great man am I, at
your service."
It appears by his note-book that Mr. Irving continued to labor at Columbus with little or no intermission
up to the close of July, when he addressed the following letter to Murray, which I give from a copy retained
among. his papers:
[To John 3farray.]
MAIDRID, July 29, 1827.
MY D:EAR SIR:
I have at length concluded my History of Columbus. As
I cannot come to London to make arrangements for its publication, and as time might be lost in negotiating at this distance, I have transmitted a portion of the manuscript to my
friend, Col. Aspinwall, American consul at London, who will
arrange the matter with you in my name. I have sent as
much of the MS. as I could venture to intrude upon the civility
of an English courier.  The rest will be forwarded by the first
opportunity. The first volume will end with the last chapter
of the tenth book, forming seven hundred and fifty-six manu



JT. 44.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  263
script pages, besides a preface of a few pages. The second volume may possibly be a little larger, containing, besides the remaining eight books, a number of illustrations which I have
endeavored to make as interesting and entertaining as possible,
and a few important documents.  The latter eight books contain the third voyage of Columbus, the troubles of himself and
his brothers in the island of Hispaniola with the natives and
the rebels; his being sent to Spain in chains; his fourth voyage, in the course of which I have brought forward many particulars of his singular and disastrous voyage along the coast
of Veraguas or Isthmus of Panama; the transactions in the
island of Jamaica, where he lived for a year in the wrecks of
his stranded ships, &c., &c., so that the latter part of the work
is full of incident and interest.  I have woven into my work
many curious particulars not hitherto known concerning Columbus, and I think I have thrown light upon some parts of his
character which have not been brought out by his former biographers.  I have labored hard to make the work complete
and accurate as to all the information extant relative to the
subject, while I have sought to execute it in such a manner as
would render it agreeable to the general reader.  Considering
its magnitude and the toil it has cost me, I should not be willing to part with the copyright under three thousand guineas.
As I mentioned in one of my letters, however, I am willing to
publish it on shares.  The mode of doing so, as I once understood from Sir Walter Scott, is to agree about the number of
copies in an edition, and the retail price to be placed upon them,
to multiply the number of copies by the price of each, and
divide the gross amount by six.  For this sixth part, the publisher to give his notes to the author.  If this meets with your
approbation, all the incidental arrangements can be made with




264                  LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1827.
Col. Aspinwall. I should like, however, to have an advance
of two or three hundred guineas on the work as a matter of
private accommodation, my funds being all in America, from
whence I find both loss and trouble in procuring them.
Should you undertake the present work, the sooner it is
put to press the better, as I have other writings in preparation
which I should soon be able to furnish.  I hope you will let
me hear from you as soon as possible.
With kindest remembrances to Mrs. Murray and the family,
I am, my dear Sir,
Very truly your friend,
WASHINGTON IRVING.
[To John KMurray.]
MADRID, August 19th, 1827.
MIY DEAR SIR:
I send you the residue of the manuscript of the main body
of my history.  The first volume will end with the last.
chapter of Book 10.  By the next opportunity which presents,
I will send you the illustrations, which will make between one
and two hundred pages, and the documents, which will complete the volume and will probably make it a little larger than
the first. The illustrations are to be printed in the same type
with the body of the work.  The documents may be printed
smaller.  I am waiting with great anxiety to hear from  you.
Any corrections or alterations that may be suggested in my
work, by competent persons, if transmitted to me by post, I
shall be able immediately to attend to, as I retain a copy of
the work to serve in case of accidents.
I am unable to find any satisfactory portrait of Columbus.
A.ll that I see are either portraits of his son, Don Diego, or




'ET. 44.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 265
vary essentially from the description given of his countenance.
I shall send a chart by the next opportunity, on which his route
in his first voyage is marked; Navarrete has given him a
different landing place in the new world from that hitherto
assigned, but I am in favor of the old landing place, and I trust
I shall give satisfactory reasons for the opinion.
With kindest regards to Mrs. Murray and the rest of your
family, I am my dear Sir,
Very faithfully yours,
WASHINGTON IRVING.
I close the history of this year with a few extracts
from  the author's note-book, beginning with the day
succeeding the date of the foregoing letter.
August 20th.-At American copy of Columbus.
22d.-Dine with Smith [John Adams Smith, the American
Secretary of Legation] and Longfellow.
This was Henry W. Longfellow, the now celebrated
American poet, then a youth of twenty-one, who had
received the offer of a professorship of modern languages in Bowdoin College, Maine, for which he was
preparing himself by a residence in the different capitals in Europe.  I had parted with him  at Paris early
in the year.  His sojourn in Madrid had commenced
with the 6th of March;.Mr. Irving, in a letter to me
of the 8th, having this mention of him: " Mr. Longfellow arrived safe and cheerily the day before yesterday,
having met with no robbers."  I cannot refrain from
VOL. II.-12




266                 LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1827.
giving here the poet's own beautiful allusion to this
meeting with Mr. Irving  in  Spain.  In  an  address
before the MVassachusetts Historical Society, on occasion
of the author's decease, after alluding to his early admiration of the Sketch Book, published when he was a
school boy, he says:
Many years afterwards I had the pleasure of meeting Mr.
Irving in Spain, and found the author, whom  I had loved,
repeated in the man.  The same playful humor; the same
touches of sentiment; the same poetic atmosphere; and, what
I admired still more, the entire absence of all literary jealousy,
of all that mean avarice of fame, which counts what is given
to another as so much taken from one's self" And trembling, hears in every breeze,
The laurels of Miltiades."
At this time Mr. Irving was at Madrid, engaged upon his
Life of Columbus; and if the work itself did not bear ample
testimony to his zealous and conscientious labor, I could do so
from personal observation. He seemed to be always at work.
"Sit down," he would say, " I will talk with you in a moment,
but I must first finish this sentence."
One summer morning, passing his house at the early hour
of six, I saw his study window  already wide open.  On my
mentioning it to him afterwards, he said: "Yes, I am always
at my work as early as six."  Since then, I have often remembered that sunny morning and that open window, so suggestive
of his sunnytemperament and his'open heart, and equally so of
his patient and persistent toil; and have recalled those striking
words of Dante:




ET. 44.]            OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                      267
"Seggendo in piuma,
In fama non si vien, ne sotto coltre;
Senza la qual, chi sua vita consuma,
Cotal vestigio in terra, di se lascia
Qual fummo in aere ed in acqua la schiuma.
" Seated upon down,
Or in his bed, man cometh not to fame;
Withouten which, whoso his life consumes,
Such vestige of himself on earth shall leave
As smoke in air and in the water foam."
I return to the diary:
August 30th.-Write letters of introduction for Mr. Longfellow, to Rumigny, Bottiger, Lowenstein, Sir Walter Scott,
Mr. Philips, Sotheby.
September 8th. —All day writing at Don Roderick, and till
eleven at night.
1 7th.-King's  Library-memorandums  about  Fernando
Gonzalez —evening at Mr. D'Oubril's-[the Russian Minister, at
whose house he became very intimate].
19th. —King's Library  all the morning-evening at Mr.
Rich's-paid $30 for copying.
27th.-At Jesuit's  Library-Mem.  for  Cidc            at night
Amerigo Vespucci.
30th.-Abderahman-evening at Mr. Rich's.
October 1st.-Received  letter from  Longfellow-write at
Abderahman.
5th.-Library-Jesuits'-Cid-        evening at Mr. D'Oubril's
-first lesson.
8th.-King's Library-Cid-receive letter from  Col. Aspinwall, informing me of his arrangement with Murray for




268                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1827.
History of Columbus-3,000 guineas-[that is-Murray elected
to pay the 3,000 guineas rather than publish on shares].
Aspinwall writes: " Murray says of the work, it is
beautiful, beautiful-the best thing he has ever written;  and informs his correspondent that the terms
upon which he had concluded to become the purchaser
of the copyright were as follows:
~300 downi.
450 in note at 6 months from January 1, 1828.
400    "    9        "  "
400    "   12         "  
400    "   15         "        "          -
400    "   18  "                        "
400    "   21  
400    " 24                    "         "
~3,150.
The periods of payment were protracted to a year beyond the period within which the payments for his former works were made, his wish being to regulate his
payments in some measure according to the prospect
of reimbursement from sales.
Newton writes to him  from London the same day,
October 8, in a letter received on the 22d:
I hope you are satisfied with the pecuniary arrangement
the colonel has made; he seems to have been very wary, and
to have gained great credit with Murray as a sharp bargainer,
who, on the other hand, is delighted with his bargain, so much
so as to make the sincerity of his encomiums on the worthy
colonel's shrewdness doubtful. You will be glad to hear that




XAT. 44.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 269
Southey, to whom the manuscript was first shown, pronounced
the most unqualified praise of it, both as to matter and manner; there seems to be no doubt, from what I hear, that this
work will greatly raise your name in literature.
I resume my extracts from the author's note-book:
October 10th.-King's Library-Cid-afternoon Wilkie,
the painter calls on me-just arrived-visit him with Peter in
the evening-afterward go to D'Oubril's.
Thzursday 11th.-Morning go to Museum with Mr. Wilkie
-Peter and Dolgorouki [Prince Demetri Ivanovitch  Dolgorouki, attached to the Russian Embassy].
Sunday 14th.-Dine at Mr. Bosanquet's-British charge
d'affaires-present Lord Mahon [the historian], son of Earl of
Stanhope, and his brother Hon, Mr. Stanhope-Mr. Wilkie,
Prince Dolgorouki-evening at Mr. D'Oubril's with Wilkiepass evening with the children.
Noonday 15th. —Write to Murray, sending corrections 6o
MSS. —Go to Bull fight with Wilkie and Peter-evening at
Wilkie's.
Friday 19th.-At seven o'clock in the morning set off in
Diligence with Peter for Escurial-in company with Lord
Mahon, and his brother Mr. Stanhope, of the British Legation
-arrived at Escurial at half past eleven, and put up at Fleur
de Lys, where we found Wilkie-Prince Dolgorouki of the
Russian legation, joined us in the course of the day, having
come too late for the diligence and followed in a calesinvisited the church, vault, &c.-Anniversary of the death of
Queen Margaret-coffin with crown and pall, &c., in the centre
of the chapel-in the evening the' Infanta, wife of Don Carlos,




270                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1827.
goes down into the Pantheon which is illuminated-meet
Marquis of -     who introduces me to the prior, a fat, pleasantfaced man-get permission for NVilkie to go all over the Escurial at all times.
Thursday 25th.-Leave Madrid at seven o'clock with Lord
Mahon, Mr. Wilkie, and Peter, for Toledo-in a coach with
six mules-arrive at Aranjuez at two o'clock-seven leaguesput up at Posada of Andalusia-visit Palace, Gardens, &c.
October 26th.-Leave Aranjuez at seven o'clock-   *  *
arrive at Toledo at two o'clock-seven leagues.
October 27th —Visit various parts of town-church and
convent of Capuchins —*       see young monk confessing to
old one- Ailkie much struck with it.
[This visit to Toledo, in the illustrations to the Legend of Don Roderick, is erroneously stated to have
been in 1826.]
In the latter part of this year, Mr. Irving would
seem from his memorandum book to have been engaged
in taking notes for a suite of works he had projected,
illustrative of the domination of the Arabs in Spain,
and also for a Conquest of Mexico, a theme upon which
he had been brooding, but which was destined to employ the pen of another gifted American.
December 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, the record is: " History of the Moors and Montezuma."  The last record
of the year is as follows:
MIonday, Dec. 31st.-Almanzor-call at Mr. Roberts and get
$100-evening at Mr. D'Oubril's till near twelve o'clockreturn home about twelve.




ET. 44.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 271
So ends the year 1827-tranquilly-It has been a year of
labor, but much more comfortable than most I have passed in
Europe, and leaves me in a state of moderate hope as to the
future.




272                     LIFE AND LETTERS                         [1828.
CHAPTER XVI.
LETTER TO PRINCE DOLGOROUKI-ENTERS MORE INTO SOCIETY AT MADRID-GAY
ASSEMBLAGES-TABLEAUS-WILKIE-HIS DIFFICULTY IN GETTING ADMITTED
TO A SIGHT OF FLEMISH PAINTINGS-THE AUTHOR IN THE LIBRARY OF THE
JESUITS' COLLEGE-NOTE TO DOLGOROUKI-PUBLICATION OF COLUMBUS BY
MURRAY IN LONDON, BY THE CARVILLS IN NEW YORK —ARRANGEMENT WITH
CAREY, LEA & CAREY, OF PHILADELPHIA, FOR THE PUBLICATION OF THE
FOUR PREVIOUS WORKS OF THE AUTHOR FOR A TERMI OF YEARS-LETTER
TO BREVOORT-DEPARTURE FROM MADRID ON A TOU TOR TROUGH THE SOUTHERN PARTS OF SPAIN-LETTER TO MADEMOISELLE BOLVILLER-DESCRIPTION
OF THE JOURNEY FROM CORDOVA TO GRANADA-ADMIRATION OF THE MIOORS
-THE  ALHAMIBRA-A DESPATCH FROM THE COURT OF LIONS-QUEST FOR
THE PORTAL BY WHICH BOABDIL SALLIED FORTH-THE POOR DEVIL GUIDE.
T     -IE  letters to Prince Dolgorouli and Mademoiselle
Antoinette  Bolviller, which  are to  follow  in this
and  one or two  succeeding  chapters, and which  give
some interesting glimpses of the author's sojourn in
Spain, have been collected since his death.  Prince Dolgorouki, at the  date of these letters, was a young attacze of the Russian legation at Madrid, and Mademoiselle Bolviller, a niece of Madame D'Oubril, formed an
intelligent and cherished inmate of the domestic circle
of Mr. D'Oubril, the Russian minister, whose house became a frequent and favorite resort of Mr. Irving dur



JET. 44.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   273
ing his prolonged stay in the Spanish capital.  The letters to the latter were procured twi'o years since through
the agency of a niece of the author travelling in Europe.  The lady to whom  they were addressed, and
who kindly furnished the copies, was then about retiring for life to the seclusion of an Italian convent.  For
those of Prince Dolgorouki, who had withdrawn from
diplomatic life, and whose present residence was unknown to me, I am  indebted to the friendly intervention of Count Adam  Gurowski, who most obligingly
forwarded my application, and ensured its reaching the
party for whom it was destined.
The first letter to Prince Dolgorouki is addressed
to him at Barcelona, to which city he had accompanied
the Russian embassy during a temporary absence there
of the Spanish court.
[To Prince Demetri Ivanovitch Dolgorouli.]
MADRID, January 22(1, 1828.
It is very kind in you, my dear Dolgoroulki, to write me
so long a letter, when your time must be so much occupied,
and you have so many correspondents.  I am extremely sorry
to find your absence so prolonged, and begin to fear I shall
see but little of you before my departure for Andalusia. I
miss you sadly here, particularly at the soirees where you
were so kind as to seek me out in my solitude amidst the
crowd, cheering me sometimes with a bon-mot and sometimes
with a bon-bon.  I would have you know that since your departure I have become one of the most dissipated men upon
town; continually at soirees and tertullias; and  amongst
VOL.IL- 1,2*      0198)




274                  LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1828.
others have at length made my appearance at the Duchess
of Benavente's, after having kept away for nearly two years.
All this is the doing of Madame D'Oubril, who seemed to
think I ought to enter more into society, and what she says
I find is law with me.  I am but a spiritless being, however,
at these gay assemblages; I do not dance; I have not the art
of talking to people who do not interest me, and am  so
diffident of my knowledge of the French language, that I cannot force myself to converse in it in mingled society. I am
therefore, a silent, and somewhat lonely person in these crowds;
and instead of making new acquaintances, am apt to lose those
which I have already made; as the silence and shyness which
arise from real diffidence are always prone to be misunderstood.
To compensate for these sterile soirees, I have now and
then, though at present not often, a domestic evening at your
Embassy, and, what is the summit of my delight, occasionally
a dinner entirely en famille.  These are the happiest hours
I pass in Madrid.  I have then all the sweetness of the family
circle, undiluted by an inundation of strangers.  I only regret
my awkward and embarrassed mode of speaking French, which
shackles my tongue, limits me to common place, and must
render me but a poor addition to the society.  I feel in consequence the more sensible of the kindness of this excellent
family which overlooks all my imperfections, and shows so
much attention to one who can contribute so little to the
general amusement.  I would not give one of these hours of
calm domestic intercourse for all the splendor of the most brilliant rout.  It is at these times that the admirable qualities
of Madame D'Oubril and Mademoiselle Antoinette appear in
their most striking and amiable light.  The beautiful children,




JET. 44.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   275
too, with their engaging manners and amusing ways, make it
like a fairy land to me, and I would not exchange the pleasant
laughing blue eyes of the little Inez for those of the brightest
belle in Madrid.
You may pass your time gayly in Barcelona, my dear
Dolgorouki; but were I situated as you are, in this lovely
family, I should look upon an absence from it as a perfect exile.
I have seen so much of the coldness and heartlessness of the
world at large, that I feel more strongly the value of an intimacy of the kind, and the greatest concern I feel at my approaching departure is that I must take leave of this family,
perhaps forever.
Last evening at your house, we had one of the most lovely
tableaux I ever beheld.  It was the conception of Murillo,
represented by Madame A.  Mademoiselle Antoinette
arranged the tableau with her usual good taste, and the effect
was enchanting.  It was more like a vision of something spiritual and celestial than a representation of anything merely
mortal; or rather it was woman as in my romantic days I
have been apt to imagine her, approaching to the angelic nature.  I have frequently admired Madame A —   as a mere
beautiful woman when I have seen her dressed up in the fantastic finery of the mode; but here I beheld her elevated into
a representative of divine purity and grace, exceeding even
the beau ideal of the painter, for she even surpassed in beauty
the picture of Murillo.  I felt as if I could have knelt down
and worshipped her.  Heavens! what power women would
have over us, if they knew how to sustain the attractions which
nature has bestowed upon them, and which we are so ready
to.assist by our imaginations.  For-my part, I am superstitious




276                  LIFE AND LETTERS                   [1828.
in my admiration of them, and like to walk in a perpetual
delusion, decking them  out as divinities  I thank no one to
undeceive me, and to prove that they are mere mortals.
I shall feel quite sorry when I meet Madame Aagain, to find her once more returned from the clouds, a mere
fashionable lady.  We had afterwards a tableau of a Sybil
by Mademoiselle F, for which the noble traits of her
countenance were admirably  calculated.  She has a most
august, distinguished demeanor, especially when thus placed in
anl advantageous point of view.  She looks fit to be a Queen
on earth, but Madame A_  to be the Queen of Heaven.
Wilkie has filled up his picture and is now glazing it.  By
the time you return it will probably be finished.  It is beautiful, and has the rich, mellow effect of an old painting.  His
health has somewhat improved of late, in consequence of some
remedies he has been trying, and he appears to apply himself
to his art with less fatigue and exhaustion.  He will be
rejoiced to see you again in Madrid, for this is not a place to
find many who take the interest that you do in his pursuits.
Notwithstanding every exertion and interest, lie has not been
able as yet to get a sight of the Flemish paintings here.  He
has just received letters, however, which I hope may have the
desired effect; one is from Mr. Peel to the Secretary of State;
another is from the Duke of Wellington to the Duke de Infantado, expressly soliciting that Mr. Wilkie may have access to
these objects of art.  It at least shows thle interest taken in
the matter by the most distinguished characters in England;
while it is a reproach upon the state of the arts in Spain, that an
artist of the standing of Mr. Wilkie should be obliged to make
use of such powerful influence to gain a sight of what ought
to be open to all the world.




AT. 44.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                    277
I have forgotten to thank you for the curious document
fiom  the archives of Barcelona, the letter and copy of verses
of King Pedro el Ceremonioso.  He was a singular character,
and an authentic document of the kind concerning him is highly
interesting.  How fuill of interest everything is connected with
the old times of Spain.  I am more and more delighted with the
old literature of the country, its chronicles, plays and romances.
It has the wild vigor and luxuriance of the forests of my
native country, which, however  savage and entangled, are
more captivating to my imagination than the finest parks and
cultivated woodlands.
As I live in the neighborhood of the Library of the Jesuits'
College of St. Isidoro, I pass most of my mornings there.
You cannot think what a delight I feel in passing through its
galleries filled with old, parchment-bound books.  It is a perfect.wilderness of curiosity to me.  VWhat a deep-felt quiet
luxury there is in delving into the rich ore of these old, neglected
volumes.  How  these hours of uninterrupted intellectual enjoyment, so tranquil and independent, repay one for the ennui
and disappointment too often experienced in the intercourse
of society   how they serve to bring back the feelings into a
harmonious tone, after being jarred and put all out of tune by
the collisions wTith the world.
But I am  spinning out this letter into an unreasonable
length, and indulging in mere general fancies, while you are no
doubt looking for the news which a letter ought to contain.
For this I must refer you to the letters of Madame D'Oubril,
and the rest of the family, who see, and know, and can more
charmingly relate what is passing in the world, than myself.
I delivered your message to Mademoiselle Antoinette, who
received it as graciously as you could wish.  She is full of




278                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1828.
occupation, having the cares of these numerous soirees upon
her mind; arranging tableaux, &c., so that it is difficult to
have a few moments' conversation with her, except at the edge
of the evening, before the cares of the tea table and the
tableau commence.
*  9  -**  Farewell, my dear Dolgorouki. Give my kindest
remembrances to Mr. D'Oubril, whom I shall be most happy
to see once more in his own delightful family circle, which
owes so much of its worth to his own goodness.
Believe me ever, yours faithfully,
WASHINGTON IRVING.
P. S. I had nearly closed my letter without apologizing
to you for writing in English, but really I dare not trust myself
in the French language, for fear of making a thousand errors.
As you have been studying English, this will serve as a lesson
for you.
His correspondent had returned from  Barcelona to
Madrid, when the following  note was addressed to
him:
No date, but supposed to be
February 19, 1828.
MY DEAR DOLGOROUKI:
The invitation to the ball this evening is too kind and flattering a mark of attention on the part of the Duchess of Benavente not to be accepted with the most grateful acknowledgments.  I trace it, however, to the good offices of Madame
D'Oubril, who is constantly giving me some new proof of her
amiableness.
It is whimsical that I have been dreaming half the night of
my passion, the divine little Marie and her costume; and
thought I was at your house to see the children in their




LET. 44.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                279
dresses, when Madame D'Oubril told me I was invited to the
ball.  The only inconsistency in the dream was, that the ball
was to be at the Prince Partanna's.
I have just received news that my work on Columbus was
to be published on the 11th of this month.  It is reviewed (by
anticipation) in one of the London papers, which says that it
will give me a "prodigious increase of fame."  If one half of
this be true, I shall be content, but I still tremble in awful expectation.             Yours ever,
WASHINGTON IRVING.
P. S. As you read English better than I write French, I
make no other excuse for writing in my own language.
The Life and Voyages of Columbus, the work here
alluded to, was published by Murray in four large volumes.  IHe was much found fault with for the price,
the size, and the gross typographical errors with which
it abounded.  He had assured Mr. Aspinwall that he
would have the correction of the proofs done by some
competent person; but Mr. Irving had given no directions on the subject, and he was very badly represented
on the occasion.
The first American edition of two thousand copies,
in three octavo volumes, was sold to the Messrs. Carvill, the principal booksellers of New York, after having been first offered by Ebenezer Irving to Messrs.
Carey, Lea & Carey, of Philadelphia.
E. I. [writes Peter to Washington] offered the edition to
Messrs. Carey in sheets, three volumes at $2 per volume, at 40




280                    LIFE AND LETTERS                         [1828.
per cent. discount, or in boards at 33.  They replied that
they would wish to sell it to the trade at those discounts, and
that the terms he proposed were out of all bounds, and would
not permit them  even to make him  an offer.  He showed the
letter to  Brevoort, and  on  consultation  they  considered  it
necessary  to  seek  another publisher.   Brevoort applied  to
Messrs. Carvill, whom he knew, and who agreed to give seven
thousand  dollars for the two thousand  copies in sheets, one
thousand dollars on delivery, the remainder in four, six, and
nine months, giving you a profit on the edition of about three
thousand dollars.  Messrs. Carvill are the first booksellers in
New York.
Mr. Carey came on to New York about the beginning of
February, and after considerable conversation offered a profit
of two thousand five hundred dollars, and when he found that
it would not procure it manifested a disposition to augment the
proffer, but was informed that it was too'late.
The price at which the book is to be published is two dollars and a quarter per volume or six dollars and three quarters for the three volumes.'
* In a letter to the author written about this time, Carey makes a proposition to him respecting any future publications; and about the last of
March, 1828, put the question to his brother and agent, Ebenezer, what he
would ask for the right of publishing the four previous works, History of
New York, Sketch Book, Bracebridge Hall, and Tales of a Traveller, for
seven or ten years.
The result was an arrangement soon after with that house for a seven
years' lease of the copyright of these works at six hundred dollars.per
annum, payable semi-annually, and to take the stock on hand at sixty-five
cents per copy.




JET. 44.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 281
Having glanced for a moment at these mercantile
arrangements respecting the publication of Columbus,
which were left entirely to the control of his brother
Ebenezer, I now introduce a letter to Brevoort, which
gives a further insight into the author's feelings on
offering to the world a work which told the history of
one of the most stupendous and memorable events in
the annals of mankind, and was to be pronounced more
honorable to the literature of his own country than any
that had yet appeared in it.  In the estimation of an
eminent American critic, Mr. Alexander I-I. Everett,
then Minister at Madrid, but soon to exchange that
diplomatic situation for the editorship  of the North
American Review, he had already secured and would
permanently retain, in our literary annals, the brilliant
position of the harbinger and founder of the American
school of polite learning; but he naturally felt anxious
as to his reception in this nlew department of literature,
in which Moore, in his Life of Sheridan, and Scott, in
his Napoleon, works but recently published, were considered to have failed.
MADRID, Feb. 23, 1828.
MY DEAR BREVOOT:
I have received two letters from you, the last dated Dec.
19, and both full of the most interesting domestic intelligence.
I feel under the greatest obligations to you for the kind interest
you have taken in my History of Columbus.  I find by the
London papers i; was to be published by Murray on the 11th
inst.  T am, therefore, at this moment undergoing dissection
from the coarse hands of the London critics.  A comfortable




282                 LIFE AND LETTERS                   [1828.
idea for an author, who knows that he has several lurking
enemies among the crew.  If the work succeeds, it will be of
immense service to me; if it fails it will be, most probably,
what many have anticipated, who suppose, from my having
dealt so much in fiction, it must be impossible for me to tell
truth with plausibility.  I am  most anxious for success, however, in my own country.  Whatever you may say to the contrary, I cannot but -feel that I have been regarded by my
countrymen with an altered mien.  [Then alluding to the malignant attacks that had been forwarded to him, as has before
been stated, from American papers, on points independent of
mere literary merit, and in which he felt that great injustice
was done him, he adds:]
I have never sought, nor will I ever seek to vindicate myself from aspersions.  My writings, my character and life must
all speak for themselves, and I must abide by the average opinion which will ultimately be awarded.  I confess it will give
me satisfaction if my present work, by its success, replies to
some of the cavilling that has been indulged against me; but
I fear I can never regain that delightful confidence which I
once enjoyed of, not the good opinion, but the good-will of my
countrymen.' *  *
I am sorry to find by your letters that you have had your
share of the rubs and cares of the times; I had hoped you
were safe in port and out of the reach of storms and disasters;
but so it is; we are none of us completely sheltered from misfortune.  If we do not put to sea, the sea overflows its bounds
and drowns us on the land.  For my own part, with all my
exertions, I seem  always to keep about up to my chin in
troubled water, while the world, I suppose, thinks I am sailing
smoothly, with wind and tide in my favor.




JET. 44.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 283
In a few days I shall leave Madrid on a tour through the
southern parts of Spain, a journey which I have long been anticipating, but which my literary occupations have hitherto
prevented me from undertaking. I am grieved, however, that
my brother Peter cannot accompany me as he had proposed.
His health for upwards of two months past has been extremely
disordered; being troubled by a return of almost incessant
headaches, which render a rough journey of the kind highly
imprudent. He intends to return by easy travelling to France,
and will be accompanied by my nephew Theodore, who lately
arrived here. This is a sad disappointment to me, and throws
a cloud upon my anticipations of pleasure from this tour.  I
shall, however, have agreeable travelling companions in the
Secretary of the Russian Embassy and the Russian ConsulGeneral, two intimate friends of mine; and I shall have letters
to the principal persons in authority in Seville, Granada, &c.,
from M. Salmon, the Secretary of State, which will serve to
make my way smooth and to give me facilities in gaining
access to such objects of curiosity as are sometimes closed to
strangers in this jealous country.  I am also in hopes of being
joined in the South by Wilkie, the painter, who has been passing the winter in Madrid, and is an old acquaintance and friend.
You doubtless know his merit, and must be aware how interesting it would be to have such a companion. We have already made excursions together to the Escurial and to Toledo,
in the course of which I have found my own observations on
the people and the country quickened by the sagacious remarks
of such a practised observer.  Wilkie remains here for some
time yet to finish a picture he has just commenced, but talks of
coming to Seville in the month of April, when I shall most
probably be there.   *     




284                LIFE AND LETTERS                [1828.
On the 1st of March, 1828, Mr. Irving set off in the
diligence for Cordova, in company with Mr. Gessler,
Russian Consul-General, and cMr. Stoffregen, Secretary
of the Russian Embassy, the two intimate friends referred to in the foregoing letter, to make a tour through
the most beautiful, romantic, and historical part of
Andalusia.  His brother Peter had originally intended
to accompany him  on this tour, as we have seen, but
he found his health too feeble and uncertain for the
rough exposures to which he would be subject in travel
in Spain, and he therefore left Mladrid to proceed by
slow journeys to Paris, the same day that Washington
started for the south of Spain.  6 It seemed," says
Washington, in a letter to his sister, MIrs. Paris,' on taking leave of him  at Maclrid, as if I had parted with
half of myself."
At Cordova, where they arrived on the 4th, they
made arrangements for horses to take them to Granada; and, as a story was afloat of eleven robbers, mounted, on the Riambla road, they engaged an escort of four
men.   As they were about to start, the diligence
brought a reinforcement to their party in the person of
an English clergyman, a Mr. Tomlinson, and an American, who proposed to join them; and for these an additional escort was secured-Bautiste Serrano de Ecija,
a stout man with a fierce eye.  " Would have to pay
him  high —first-rate fellow —kn ows all the robbershas been a robber himself," whispered the landlord to
Mr. Irving.




AET. 44.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                     285
A  description of his journey from  Cordova to, Granada, and of his first visit to the Alhambra, the scene
of his future elysian abode, will be found in the following letter:
[To   ccademoiselle Antoinette Bollviller.]
GRANADA, March 15, 1828.
I promised, my dear Mademoiselle Bollviller, to write to
you in the course of our tour, but when I made such a promise
I had little idea of the difficulty of performing it while travelling in Spain.  One is exhausted by incessant fatigue, and  put
out of all tune by the squalid miseries of the Spanish posadas.
I am now so surrounded by dirt and villany of all kinds that I
am  almost ashamed to despatch a letter to your pure hands
from so scoundrel a place.
Our journey has hitherto been auspicious, that is to say,
we have escaped being robbed, though we have been in dens
as perilous as that of Daniel and the lions; our greatest risk,
however, has, I am  convinced, been from  our own escort,
which for part of the way has been composed of half-reformed
robbers, retired from business, but who seemed to have a great
hankering after their old trade.
I am greatly pleased with my fellow travellers.  Stoffregen,
having never before been so far to the south, is in continual
transport with the luxurious indications of a southern climate,
and when he gets among orange groves, hanging fill of golden
fruit, and hedges of aloe, myrtle, and the Indian fig, he seems
like one intoxicated.  It is true his happiness is subject to continual interruptions, being in a state militant with landlords,
muleteers, waiters, and all the vagabond rabble of the posadas.
He is a little too sensitive to the miseries of Spanish travelling,




28G                  LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1828.
which, indeed, are sufficient to try the patience of Job; so that,
between the delights of the country and climate and the abom-inations of the inns and their inhabitants, he is kept in a constant fever either of pleasure or vexation. As to Gessler, he
has excited my frequent wonder, and has convinced me of the
truth of certain fairy tales which I had hitherto mistaken for
fairy tales.  He has two magic gifts with him: a leathern
bottle curiously wrought, which is never empty, though continually in use; and a sack, equal in the incredible amount of its
contents to the pocket of Peter Schlemil's mysterious friend.
From this sack, whenever we were in want of a repast on the
journey, he drew forth hams, sausages, fowls, conserves, and
above all a pie in which was a monstrous fish, equal to that
which swallowed Jonah.  I have had uncomfortable doubts as
to the manner in which Gessler had come by these miraculous
gifts, and watched to see whether, like Peter Schlemil, he had
been selling his shadow, but I was glad to find he had still
shadow enough for the substance of two ordinary men.  I have
never, however, partaken of the contents of this magic bottle
and sack without privately making the sign of the cross, by
which means I have hitherto escaped all injury.
Our journey through La Mancha was cold and uninteresting, excepting when we passed through the scenes of some of
the exploits of Don Quixote.  We were repaid, however, by a
night amidst the scenery of the Sierra Morena, seen by the
light of the full moon.  I do not know how this scenery would
appear in the day time, but by moonlight it is wonderfully wild
and romantic, especially after passing the summit of the Sierra.
As the day dawned we entered the stern and savage defiles of
the Despefla Perros, which equals the wild landscapes of Salvator Rosa.  For some time we continued winding along the




JET. 44.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   28
brinks of precipices, overhung with cragged and fantastic
rocks; and after a succession of such rude and sterile scenes
we swept down to Carolina, and found ourselves in another
climate.  The orange trees, the aloes and myrtle began to
make their appearance; we felt the warm temperature of the
sweet South, and began to breathe the balmy air of Andalusia,
At Andujar we were delighted with the neatness and cleanliness of the houses, the patios planted with orange and citron
trees and refreshed by fountains; we passed a charming evening on the banks of the famous Guadalquivir, enjoying the
mild balmy air of a southern evening, and rejoicing in the certainty that we were at length in this land of promise.
While at Cordova we made excursions on horseback among
the heights of the Sierra Morena which rise behind the city,
visiting the celebrated hermitage and the convent of St. Geronimo.  The mountains were clothed with aromatic shrubs, and
with flowers which in other countries are the forced productions of gardens and hothouses.  From  these heights the eye
revels over a delicious landscape; a broad green valley fertilized by the windings of the shining Guadalquivir, and bounded.
by long lines of mountains famous in the hardy predatory wars
of the Moors and Christians.  The snowy summit of the Sierra
Nevada lies like a brilliant cloud in the distance, marking the
situation of Granada, the city of romantic history.  Every
mountain summit in this country spreads before you a mass of
history, filled with places renowned for some wild and heroic
achievement.
But Granada, bellissima Granada! think what must have
been our delight, when, after passing the famous bridge of
Pinos, the scene of many a bloody encounter between Moor
and Christian, and remarkable for having been the place where




'28S                 LIFE AND LETTERS                     [1828.
Columbus was overtaken by the messenger of Isabella, when
about to abandon Spain in despair, we turned a promontory of
the arid mountains of Elvira, and Granada, with its towers, its
Alhambra, and its snowy mountains, burst upon our sight.
The evening sun shone gloriously upon its red towers as we
approached it, and gave a mellow tone to the rich scenery of
the vega.  It was like the magic glow which poetry and romance have shed over this enchanting place.
For several days past we have been incessantly occupied
traversing the city and its environs  but the Alhambra and
Generalife have most excited our enthusiasm.  The more I
contemplate these places, the more my admiration is awakened
of the elegant habits and delicate taste of the Moorish monarchs.  The delicately ornamented walls; the aromatic groves,
mingling with the freshness and the enlivening sound of fountains and runs of water, the retired baths, bespeaking purity
and refinement, the balconies and galleries open to the fresh
mountain breeze, and overlooking the loveliest scenery of the
valley of the Darro and the magnificent expanse of the vega; it
is impossible to contemplate this delicious abode and not feel an
admiration of the genius and the poetical spirit of those who first
devised this earthly paradise.  There is an intoxication of heart
and soul in looking over such scenery at this genial season.
All nature is just teeming with new life and putting on the first
delicate verdure and bloom of spring.  The almond trees are in
blossom, the fig trees are beginning to sprout; everything is
in the tender bud, the young leaf, or the half-open flower. The
beauty of the season is but half developed, so that while there
is enough to yield present delight, there is the flattering promise of still further enjoyment.  Good heavens! after passing
two years amidst the sunburnt wastes of Castile, to be let




lET. 44.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   289
loose to rove at large over this fragrant and lovely land! what
a fulness of pure and healthful pleasure gushes into the heart;
and how do we look back with distaste upon the pale and artificial life of the city, and wonder how  we could have condemned ourselves to its formal and frivolous routine!
COURT OF THE LIONS, ALIIAMBRA.
I think I told you that I would write you a letter from the
Alhambra; I have escaped from the noise and dirt of the posada, and have come here partly to perform my promise, partly
to enjoy a little tranquillity  It is now near the hour of sunset
of a warm day, the sun is still shining upon the towers which
overlook this court, and a beautiful, mellow light is spread about
its colonnades and marble halls.  The fountain is immediately
before me, ever memorable from  the tragic fate of the gallant
Abencerrages.  I have just diluted my ink with its waters;
and here I sit quietly inditing a gossiping letter on the place
that has been the scene of an atrocious massacre.  We talk of
realizing past scenes when we tread in the traces of renowned
historical events, but I find it impossible to get into the vein of
feeling consonant to such a place.  The verity of the present
checks and chills the imagination in its picturings of the past.
I have been trying to conjure up images of Boabdil passing in
regal splendor through these courts; of his beautiful queen; of
the Abencerrages, the Gomares, and the other Moorish cavaliers who once filled these halls with the glitter of arms and the
splendor of oriental luxury; but I am  continually awakened
from my reveries by the jargon of an Andalusian peasant who
is setting out rose bushes, and the song of a pretty Andalusian
girl who shows the Alhambra, and who is chanting a little roVOL. II.-13       (19)




290                  LIFE AND LETTERS                   [1828.
mance that has probably been handed down from generation to
generation since the time of the Moors.
For the greater part of this day I have been occupied exploring the neglected parts of the Alhambra and the towers
which lie in ruins.  I have been in quest of the portal by
which the unfortunate King Boabdil sallied forth when he descended to the vega to surrender the keys to Ferdinand and
Isabella.  He descended outside of the city walls, by the same
road by which the Grand Cardinal of Spain ascended at the
head of a band of cavaliers to take possession of the Alhambra.
Boabdil asked of the sovereign, as a melancholy boon, that no
one might be permitted to enter the Alhambra by the portal at
which he had sallied forth.  This prayer was granted; the
portal was walled up, and has continued so to the present day.
I found this interesting anecdote in an old chronicle, but no
one here knew anything of it or of the condemned portal.  I
set a poor devil at work, however, who inherits a hovel in the
ruins; and to my great joy he has found out the gateway for
me.  He inquired of some old people upward of eighty years
of age, who had passed their lives in the Alhambra, and they
pointed out the gateway which had been walled up ever since
their recollection; and one remembered to have heard his parents
say it was the gate by which' the Moorish king had departed,
when he took his last leave of the Alhambra.  This gateway is
in a. ruined tower that.! hase beei blown up by the French.
WVith the keen relish  of antiquarian research, I traced the
whole route of the Moorish rionalrcl'down to the vega,.to a
small chapel dedicated to St. Sebastian, but which in former
times was a mosque.  Here an -inscription on the wall designated it as the place wheire the'uifortunate Boabdil met the
Catholic sovereigns and surrendered to them his throne.




JET. 44.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   291
Beside the satisfaction of having settled this point of inquiry, I received from my poor devil guide many most curious
particulars of the superstitions which circulate among the poor
people inhabiting the Alhambra respecting its old, mouldering
towers.  I have noted down these amusing little anecdotes,
and he has promised to furnish me with others.  They generally relate to the Moors and the treasures they have buried
in the Alhambra, and the apparitions of their troubled spirits
about the towers and the ruins where their gold lies hidden.
When I have more time and paper I may recount you some of
these traditions, as I know you have a great relish for the marvellous.  At present the sun is set; the old halls begin to
darken around me, and the bat is flitting about the court in
place of the birds which were lately chirping here. I have
performed my promise, and have written to you from the halls
of the Alhambra.  How  unworthy is my scribbling of the
place; but depend upon it, half of the pretended day dreams
of travellers about celebrated places are quietly dreamt in comfortable quarters, far from  the scenes they celebrate.  The
present letter I will finish by lamp light at the posada.  I will
gather you a flower, however, from  the Court of the Lions,
and enclose it in the letter to atone for the want of flowers in
my style.  And so farewell at present to the Alhambra and all
its tragical and poetical associations.
Poscad. —As Stoffregen has been writing  to  Madame
D'Oubril and to Dolgorouki, I refer you to his letters for more
particular accounts of our excursions both on horseback and on
foot about this place and its romantic environs; particularly our
dinner at the country palace of the worthy archbishop, situated
among the mountains, where, during our repast, we were re



292                  LIFE AND LETTERS                   [1828.
galed by the sound of fountains and the perfume of orange
and citron trees.  *  * 
Give my most kind remembrances to M. and Madame
D'Oubril, and to all their amiable family.  How often and often
do I think of you all, and wish myself passing a social hour
with you.  I begin to be slow in forming attachments and acquiring an interest in people, and fear it will be a long time
before I meet with a family to fill up the void I feel since I
took leave of you-all.  I hope the dear little women round the
table in the outer saloon have felt the want occasionally of
their most devoted admirer, and that the divine little Marie
sometimes thinks of me.
Tell Dolgorouki to be a good boy and to take care of
-Wilkie, and I will write him a letter in the next budget. Farewell, my dear Mademoiselle Antoinette.  I feel a pleasure in
scribbling this letter to you; it is like having a long conversation and being sociable, which one has little opportunity of
being in the slip-slop soirees of Madrid. If you write me a
reply, I beg you to let it be in French; for if you undertake it
in English, I fear you will make it a task, and either write very
brief or deferit too long a time. God bless you.
Your friend,
WASHINGTON IRVING.




ET. 44.]           OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                      293
CHAPTER XVII.
LETTER TO PRINCE DOLGOROCKI FROM MALAGA-DESCRIPTION OF JOURNEY FROM
GRANADA TO MALAGA-ADMIRATION OF WILKIE-LIVING TABLEAUX-LETTER
TO MADEMOISELLE BOLVILLER-LAST LOOK OF GRANADA-JOINED BY A
SUSPICIOUS CHARACTER ON THE JOURNEY-GROUNDLESS MISGIVINGS-THE
ALPUJARRAS-REPASTS IN BRIGAND STYLE-GESSLER-STOFFREGEN-LETTER
TO ALEXANDER H. EVERETT-DESCRIPTION OF JOURNEY FROMI MALAGA TO
SEVILLE-GIBRALTAR-CADIZ-ARRIVAL AT SEVILLE-MEETS WITH WILKIEGOING TO WORK ON THE CONQUEST OF GRANADA.
[To Prince Dolgorouki.]
MALAGA, March 29, 1828.
YOUR letter, dated the 5th and 8th of this month, my dear
Dolgorouki, has given me some of the pleasantest moments I
have experienced since I left Madrid.  It was a complete
Tableazt de famille, presenting before me that amiable, domestic
circle which, for two years past, it has been my greatest delight
to mingle with.  I feel most sensibly also the kindness of my
good friend, Mademoiselle Constance, in adding her note of
remembrance; but the precious lines from  my dear, dear, dear
little Marie, was a happiness beyond all hope. I have fancied
the little woman leaning with her whole body over the table,
her ringlets hanging all round her charming face as she achieved
that prodigious manuscript, every letter of which was almost
as big as herself.
You reproach me for not having written to you or Wilkie.




294 —                LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1828.
My dear friend, you have no idea what little time or mood
our mode of travelling leaves for letter writing.  Every day is
passed in incessant action and fatigue; on horseback or on
foot, scrambling among rocks and precipices, we have scarcely
ever the conveniences necessary to letter writing, and when
not in motion, we are generally so exhausted as to need absolute repose. The present letter I write merely as an apology
for a longer and more particular one, which I will write
when I have more leisure and more composure of mind.
We arrived here yesterday, after nine days' hard travelling
from Granada, in course of which we visited the ruins of Berja,
passed through some of the most interesting parts of the Alpujarras, and along the skirts of the mountains that border the
Mediterranean.  A great part of our route has been excessively
fatiguing, midst savage scenes, and through a part of the
country destitute of comfort; but we have been repaid by the
sublimity of these stern mountain regions, which have impressed me at times with that feeling of severe grandeur which
I have experienced in reading the pages of Dante.  As in his
poem also, this austere majesty is at times relieved by touching and unexpected beauties, for nothing can surpass the soft
and tranquil loveliness of some of those little fertile vegas
which are, here and there, locked up in the marble embraces
of the Alpujarras.  The sight of the Mediterranean was also to
me a source of constant delight, for I have been so much accustomed in early life to all that concerns the sea, that to hear it
roar and to look upon its broad blue expanse bring up a
thousand tender associations.
Our road at times wound along the face of vast promontories, where we rode along a path formed like a cornice, from
whence we looked down upon the surf beating upon the rocks,




AT. 44.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                    295
at an immense distance below us.  I have always heard Andalusia cited for the beauty and richness of the country, but from
all that I have as yet seen, the wild and melancholy grandeur
of its naked mountains predominates in my recollection over
the soft fertility of its vegas.
WTe are now  enjoying the most delicious weather, with
cloudless days and lovely moonlight nights-a rich valley surrounded by majestic mountains on the one side, and on the
other a picturesque port with the blue Mediterranean spreading
out beyond it.
The spring is here putting forth all its sweetness; we are
among oranges and citrons, the fig, the palm  tree, the vine,
the olive, the aloe, the Indian fig, and all other poetical plants
of the voluptuous South.  The senses of one long accustomed
to the North, revel with a degree of intoxication in such a
climate, and among such scenery.  The air breathes balm and
odors, for even among the rudest mountains, every weed you
tread on sends out its perfume.  But enough of Andalusia.
I have but little time for writing at this moment, and am wasting it in mere general expressions of delight.
You interest me by your account of Wilkie's new  picture,
but you do not give' me sufficiently clearly your opinion of it.
I hope he continues in the intention of coming to Seville, and
that I shall meet him  there about the middle of April, about
which time I expect to arrive there.  I wish he could make
up his mind to pass a few more months in Spain; I think lie
could pass them  both agreeably and profitably at Seville.  I
do not know whether I shall have time to write to him by this
post.  If I do not, I beg you to remember me to him most
affectionately.  I am  glad you visit him  frequently, for you
are able to appreciate as well the, sterling worth of his private




296                   LIFE AND LETTERS                     [1828.
character, as the rare excellence of his talents; and in his
present state of health, when so much time hangs heavy on
his hands, the visits of an intelligent friend are invaluable.
I notice all your vauntings of the new tableau of the Fornarina, by Mademoiselle P; but with all due acknowledgment of the picturesque capabilities of that lady's countenance,
which I long since discovered in the course of my solitary
perambulations about the saloons of Madrid, I cannot credit
the possibility of the tableau comparing with that of the celestial A —.  The latter has even risen in my estimation by
the second exhibition.  I pretend not to dispute judgment
with you in respect to inanimate pictures, but as to these living
tableaux, I will yield in critical discernment to none of your
connoisseurs;  and  I would  not give  the assumption  by
Madame A        for all the tableaux that Raphael ever painted.
So adore your Lady of the Pillar in welcome; but if ever I
hear that Madame A         is elevated into a saint, I will make
a pilgrimage to her shrine.
April 2d.-You give me the sincerest pleasure by your
warm and apparently judicious eulogium of the new picture of
Wilkie. Everything you observe concerning him is highly interesting, and it delights me to find you so capable of entering into
the peculiarities of his style of art, as well as the quiet, but deep
excellence of his character.  There is truth and wisdom  in all
that WVilkie paints, and all that he says.  He is one in whose
conversation, as well as in his productions, you may study the
philosophy of his art, or rather those precious principles of
philosophy which repudiate all art.  I would not give an hour's
conversation with Wilkie about paintings, in his earnest but
precise and logical manner, for all the enthusiastic and rapturous declamations of the common run of amateurs and artists.




ET. 44.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  297
They fill one's mind merely with flowers, but honest Wilkie
sows in it the true seeds of knowledge.
I have left this letter open in hopes of being able to add
considerably more to it, but it is now too late, and I must hurry
to a conclusion.  Is there any chance of your coming to Seville
in the course of the spring or summer?  I shall remain there
some time, and if you have any intention of visiting that place
within the year, I wish you would manage to do it while I am
there.
Indeed, my dear Dolgorouki, I feel grievously my separation from you all, and I know I shall feel it still more sensibly
when the hurry and variety of travelling is over, and I come
to be soberly settled at Seville. Do let me hear from you, and
do not get out of patience with me for not being a very industrious correspondent. I am a sad delinquent in many matters,
and need great indulgence and charity from my friends; but I
trust you know by this time, I am a man of exceeding good
intentions, though one of those unfortunate men who are rather
slow in carrying their intentions into action.
Very truly yours,
WASHINGTON IRVING.
[To Mademoiselle Bolviller, cMadrid.]
MALAGA, April 2,1828.
I am  glad, my dear Mademoiselle Antoinette, that you
wrote to me in English, notwithstanding I had entreated the
contrary.  I have been so accustomed to converse with you in
that language that when I read your letter it seemed as if you
were talking with me, and even if a little error of idiom should
now and then occur it is rather agreeable than otherwise, and
VTOL. ir.-I *




298                 LIFE AND LETTERS                   [1828.
gives a naivete to your style. I am only vexed at that malignant spirit, the prince, that he should hurry you to a conclusion
when you were writing so charmingly.  I beg that when you
write again you will have a supply of boibons at hand to send
to him from time to time, to beguile his impatience.  Still I
must not complain of him; for he has been a good boy, and has
written to me twice without receiving a line from  me. If I
can meet with a white mouse with green eyes, in the course of
my travels, I will undoubtedly send it to him, even though it
should be the very mouse possessed by the renowned collector
of curiosities Prince Bonbommin Bonbobbin Bonbobbinnett.
"We have hitherto had a most laborious, fatiguing, but wild,
romantic, and delightful tour.  I can hardly imagine that I am
travelling in one of the old and civilized countries of Europe.
Nothing in the savage parts of my own country and among its
native savages could be more original and wild than some of
our mountain scramblings among the mountains of the Alpujarras.
I took a last look at Granada from the height on the road
of Padul, where the unfortunate King Boabdil wept as he was
about to lose sight of his late capital forever. It still bears the
poetical name of el su.spiro del Moro, and they pretend to show
in a rock the print of the hoofs of Boabdil's horse, when he
stood as his rider gazed with tearful eyes upon Granada.  The
view is from amidst arid hills. You have a mere peep at a
part of the vega, and you see Granada glittering beyond, with
the red tower of the Alhambra surrounded by tufted groves.
As you turn from this scene to pursue the route of the unfortunate king, a dreary waste of naked and sunburnt mountains
extends before you.  Poor Boabdil may have contemplated it
as emblematical of his lot.  He had turned his back upon all




~T. 44.]           OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                     299
that was sweet and pleasant in life, and a stern, and rugged,
and joyless futurity lay before him.  The Alpujarras quite
equalled my expectations.  They present singular contrasts of
the wildest and most savage sterility, with lovely valleys redundant in fertility and of the fieshest verdure.  The fields of
grain were in their young vegetation, and spread sheets of
emerald green to relieve the eye from the aridity of the mountains.  The villages peeped out from among groves of oranges,
citrons, figs, and almonds, and the very rocks were covered
with the luxuriance of southern plants of poetical renown,
which struck their roots into every crevice.  The mountains
also, notwithstanding their nakedness, have a beauty fiom their
rich and varied tints, for they are composed frequently of the
finest marble,
In the course of our progress through the mountains, after
leaving the beautiful village of Lanjaron, we fell in with a singular character, just at the foot of one of the wrildest and most
solitary passes.  He had all the air of one of those predatory
rovers who hover like hawks among the Spanish mountains to
pounce upon the traveller.  He was mounted on a young and
active mule that bounded among the rocks like a goat.  He
wore the Andalusian hat and jacket, and pantaloons bordered
by silver lace; a cartridge belt of crimson velvet slung over
one shoulder and passing under the other arm; two carabines
slung behind his saddle, pistols in front, a cutlass by his side, a
long Spanish knife in the pocket of hi's vest, in a sheath ornamented with silver.  He was a complete subject for Wilkie's
pencil.  Ie joined us and kept with us for the rest of the
morning, through some savage defiles of the mountains.  We
were somewhat puzzled to make out his character, or to know
whether he were bandit, soldado, contrabandista, or simply




300                  LIFE AND LETTERS                     [1828.
caballero, for though he talked very freely about himself he
had the Andalusian propensity of inventing facts as fast as his
tongue could wag.  Stoffiegen took a violent dislike to his
whole conduct and demeanor, and as we had but a solitary
escoetea to defend us, he seemed to think we had fallen into
very unsafe company.  We took a repast together in a little
venta in a deep gorge of the mountains, and from further conversation with our new comrade I conceived a better opinion
of him, and considered him one of the amusing Fanfarons common to this part of Spain. He told us he was concerned in the
mines of Berja whither we were travelling, and offered to conduct us by a more direct route through the mountains, which
would save us at least half a day's travelling.  After consulting with our muleteers who we found knew this man, and confirmed the truth of what he said, Gessler and myself concluded
to follow  the route he pointed out.  I found afterward that
Stoffregen assented to this change of route with the utmost repugnance, and on subsequent reflection he was riglt, for though
the man turned out to be an honest person, and the route really
was the shortest and best, yet it was extremely imprudent in
us to put ourselves so completely under the guidance of an utter
stranger in those wild regions, so infested by desperate characters.  The change of route, however, procured us some curious
variety of scenery.  Our way for the most of the day lay up
the dry bed of a river, which in times of rain must swell to a
great size, but was now shrunk to an insignificant stream.  It
was bordered by arid mountains; there were neither villages
nor hamlets; the whole country was solitary and savage.
Toward sunset we arrived at the village of Cadiar, surrounded
by olive orchards, with a small vega, through which ran the
river bordered with willows.  Here we put up at one of the




MT. 44.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   301
most wretched posadas I ever met with in Spain.  Our caballero andante introduced us to a family of his relations, the principal persons of the place, who lived in a spacious and wellfurnished mansion, and who pressed us to take up our lodgings
wNith them for the night, but we preferred the independence of
our miserable posada.  The next morning we resumed our
journey, and the caballero andante sent a guide with us to
show us the way through some of the intricate parts of the
mountains, and lent us one of his carabines as an additional security.  He turned out to be a sergeant of a company of Douaniers.  It was in this day's journey that we passed through
some scenes, the extraordinary rudeness and savage sublimity of
which I shall. never forget.  Those who would know the Alpujarras in their true wildness must explore such lonely passes.'We were at one time on the dizzy verge of vast precipices, with
a chaos of marble mountains spread before us; at other times we
travelled through deep barrancos and ramblas, with red rocks
of immense height absolutely impending over us.  Our muleteer and our escopeta proceeded warily and took every precaution to guard against attack, for it is in these savage and solitary defiles that the traveller is exposed to most danger. After
emerging out of one of these passes, which would have furnished a fine subject for the pencil of Salvator Rosa, we came
to an open part of the country where the sternness of the
mountains was softened by the verdure of a small valley. The
bed of the river passed at the foot of a height on which was a
Moorish-looking village with flat roofed houses, with vines, fig
trees, and oranges growing about them. Here we halted, made
our table of a rock in the dry bed of the river, and with the aid
of Gessler's magic bottle and sack, made a sumptuous repast.
I have somehow or other got betrayed into these details,




302                  LIFE AND LETTERS                   [1828.
and have been going on as minutely as if I had a volume of
paper to fill up and a year of leisure before me. After all these
descriptions, which are mere scanty outlines of magnificent
scenes which dwell in my recollection, can afford but little satisfaction in perusal; but we are apt to be tedious when relating
things which have delighted us.
In my letter to the prince, I have spoken of the grandeur
of the scenery along the Mediterranean coast.  Here the sea
lends its sublimity to the prospect.  I had supposed onr road
would lie along the beach, but on the contrary it continually
wound among the mountains, climbing and descending frightful
precipices, and at times overhanging the rocks beaten by the
surf.  It was inspiring to look out from  the bosom of these
rugged mountains to the blue and placid bosom of the Mediterranean, and as we rode, to watch the sails that were gliding at
a great distance, some of them evidently bound, like ourselves,
to Malaga.  Sometimes we beheld the fishermen away below
us on the sandy beach, drawing their nets, and could just hear
their voices as they shouted and sung at their labor.
In the loneliest and most savage parts of these scenes the
cross by the roadside gives an inexpressible touch of horror.
It is generally in some turn or angle of the road where the
murderer could lie in wait, or on the brow of some hill where
he could see from afar the approach of the unfortunate traveller.
As the most beautiful scenes of nature derive tenfold interest
by anything that indicates the cheerful residence of man, so
the wildest and most awful scenes derive tenfold horror from
these mementos of human crime and passion.  The cross stuck
in the fissure of a rock by the roadside in a mountain pass of
a deep broken barranco, spreads a character of ferocity over the
whole scene.




LET. 44.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  303
Our mode of travelling in these parts has in it something
that partakes of the rude nature of the country. Our muleteers
have the air of veritable brigands, and doubtless now and then
indulge in the profession as a gentleman occasionally lays by
his humanity and indulges in the pleasures of the chase. Our
repasts are in the true brigand style; sometimes at a brook
among the rocks by the roadside, sometimes on the sea shore
under the shade of a fisherman's hovel, sometimes on the brow
of a mountain.  You cannot conceive the luxury of these repasts in the open air, in wild and picturesque places; and how
charmingly the magic leather bottle of Gessler diffuses an enchantment over the scene.  But I must not confine my eulogium solely to the bottle and the sack of Gessler, though so potent in their effects during our journey. I must likewise bear
testimony to his inexhaustible good humor which nothing can
sour or destroy.  I never met with a more genial, kind, accommodating fellow traveller.  Under every fatigue, cross purpose,
or annoyance to which one is subject in a journey of this kind,
he never utters an impatient word to his companions, but has
always some pleasant observation with which to beguile the
vexation of the moment.
Stoffregen is more sensitive to the annoyances of the road
and the wretchedness of the inns, but his impatience is so
under the control of an excellent heart and admirable good
breeding, that it annoys himself more than others.  The same
delicate sensibility that lays him  so open to petty vexations,
renders him also extremely susceptible of agreeable impressions,
and he is in continual transports with the beautiful objects
around us in the more smooth parts of our tour.
I have been interrupted repeatedly while writing this letter
by visitors, and have been obliged to go out and make visits;




304                LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1828.
and thus the time is exhausted by mere ceremony, which I had
intended to devote to my friends. I have received a charming
letter from the discreet princess and two parts of a letter from
that little Queen of the Fairies, Marie, beside most kind notes
from my amiable friend Mademoiselle Constance. I fear I
shall not be able to reply to them by this post.  The evening
is advanced. I have farewell visits to pay, and everything to
pack up and arrange for an early departure in the morning.
Should I not write, I beg you to plead my apology to them all.
They know I love them all too well to neglect them wilfully.
To-morrow we set off on our journey to Gibraltar by the
mountains of Ronda. I was for some time fearful that I should
have had to perform this part of the tour alone, for Mr. Gessler and Mr. Stoffregen, deterred by the reports of the rugged
nature of these mountains, had determined to go by sea coast,
and I could not prevail upon myself to give up Ronda and its
wild serrania. They have, however, kindly resolved to accompany me, and I trust will eventually feel repaid by the noble
scenery of the mountains, and the singular characteristics of the
people who inhabit them.
We have been greatly pleased with our sojourn at Malaga.
It is a finely situated place, in a fertile valley surrounded by
mountains, and open to the Mediterranean.  We have had
beautiful moonlight nights, and you can have no idea of the
charming appearance of one of these southern Mediterranean
ports by moonlight.
Farewell.  *  *  Remember me most particularly and
kindly to Mrs. and Mr. D'Oubril and to each member of their
amiable family, and may God bless you all.
Your fiiend,
WASHINGTON IRVING.




ET. 44.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   305
[To Alexander H. Everett.]
SEVILLE, April 15, 1828.
MY DEAR SIR:
I wrote to you some time since from  Granada, at which
city I passed ten days, constantly employed in examining its
antiquities, and in riding about its beautiful environs. On leaving Granada, we took the route for the mines of Adra, varying occasionally from the common road, and passing through
some of the wildest and grandest scenery of the Alpujarra
mountains.  The towns and villages in the vicinity of the
mines present an appearance of prosperity and increase unusual in Spain.  They are little spots of the country where
Che rust is rubbed off, and one can see what it might be rendered with proper management.
From  Adra, we kept along the seaboard to Malaga, our
road occasionally winding into the interior where the coast
was precipitous, or where there were long promontories, but
sometimes passing along the very profiles of the mountains
where they overhang the sea, the surf breaking far below us
against the rocky feet of the cliffs.  The scenery along this
coast is uncommonly grand, but stern and melancholy, and the
road ascends and descends such broken and rocky passes of the
mountains that the travelling is excessively laborious. As few
strangers also pass through these parts, there are no accommodations to be met with at the posadas.  You must forage through
the village to collect materials for a repast, and you may esteem
yourself fortunate at night if you can have a private room  to
sleep in and a mattress spread on the earthen floor.  The Spanish travellers generally, who pass through these mountains; are
of hardy and simple habits.  They wrap themselves in their
VOL. II.-(20)




306                  LIFE AND LETTERS                     [1828.
cloaks, and lie on the mantas of their mules and horses, with
a saddle or a pair of alforjas for a pillow.
We passed several days at Malaga, where we experienced
great attention and hospitality from  our consul, Mr. Barrell, to
whom you had given me a letter.  I was much pleased with
him; he appears to be a frank, amiable, and worthy man.
I wish he had a more profitable post.  He desired me when
I should write to you to remember him to you very particularly.
From  Malaga we took the circuitous route to Gibraltar by
the mountains of Ronda, among which we encountered the only
bad weather we have met with in the course of our tour.  For
three days that we were in the Serrania, we were drenched by
frequent and heavy rains, but were in some measure compensated by the grand effect of mingled storm and mist and sunshine on the wild and stupendous scenery around us.  The
people of these mountains are the finest that I have seen in
Spain, and the con'trabandista of Ronda is the knight errant of
the Spanish vulgar.
We remained four days at Gibraltar, overwhelmed by hospitality, which, on the part of the military messes of the British
regiments, is in  the  jovial and  tempestuous style of the
old school; for the officers confined to the rock, where there
are few resources of general society, prolong the conviviality
of the table.  Sir George Don, the Governor of Gibraltar,
is a fine compound of the veteran soldier, the keen sportsman,
and the old English country gentleman.  He keeps up strict
order in the garrison, all the military works are admirably
perfected and maintained; he has turned the slopes and skirts
of this once sterile and glaring rock, into a delicious oriental
garden, while at his little country retreat of St. Royal, about
two leagues distant, he lays by the military and puts on the




oT. 45.]           OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                      307
farmer, cultivates fields of his own, and by his advice and
example improves the  agriculture of the Spanish  farmers,
so  that the  whole  neighborhood  has  acquired  additional
beauty and fertility under his influence.
At Gibraltar, I met with an old friend and intimate in Mr.
McCall,* the American vice-consul, and with a new friend, but
one of the most obliging, hospitable, warm-hearted men I ever
knew, in our countryman Mr. Sprague.
At Cadiz, I remained but a part of two days.  It is a
beautiful city-one of the most beautiful I have ever seen,
but one is continually reminded that all the outward gayety
and splendor of its snow-white and spacious mansions cover
internal poverty, ruin, and wretchedness.  I heard  nothing
while there  but repinings at past prosperity  and  present
distress.  Mr. Burton, our consul, to whom  you gave me a
letter, was unremitting in his kind attentions, you had likewise given Mr. Gessler a letter to him, and you could not have
done him a greater service.   Mr. Burton has in consequence
given him the right hand of good fellowship, and will in fact be
a right hand to him; for he is experienced in the official duties
of a consulate, and in the mode of dealing with captains and
sailors; all which would  be wonderfully perplexing  in the
commencement to honest Gessler, who  is more accustomed
to courts and camps than to seaports. At Cadiz I left my fellow
travellers for a few days, they intending to remain there for a
short time, and I being impatient to get to Seville. I embarked
at Cadiz on a steamboat at seven o'clock in the morning, and at
* Dick McCall, as he was familiarly called among his gay companions,
when he formed one of the Lads of Kilkenny, and was dubbed a knight at
the Old Hall near Newark.  See vol. i., chap. xi.




308                  LIFE AND LETTERS                     [1828.
about five o'clock the same day landed at Seville, after a very
pleasant voyage.
I have thus given you a brief outline of one of the most
interesting tours I ever made.  You expressed an intention
once of visiting the south of Spain, before you left the country.
I would advise you to do so by all means, and I am sure you
will be delighted both with the country and the people.
Take the Andalusians with proper allowance, and they are
an admirable race, and I know you are not one who regards
any people with national or popular prejudice.  From all that
I have seen, too, the dangers of travelling are much exaggerated.  You can always ascertain what parts of your route
are really dangerous, and in such, from  your official character,
you can procure  gendarmes as  escort, who are the most
dreaded by the robbers.  A  couple would be sufficient, and
they would be serviceable in a variety of ways on the journey.
In all our route from Granada by Adra and along the Mediterranean coast to Malaga, we had only one escopeta, a common
guide of the country, all that coast being considered safe.
In  the mountains of Ronda, we had  a gendarme on
horseback, and another on foot.  It is probable that by next
year such arrangements will be made as will render the most
desirable points of Andalusia perfectly accessible to female travellers, in which case the ladies could accompany you.  A diligence is to be established in connection with the line between
Madrid and Cordova.  It is to run from Andujar to Granada.
A  diligence has recently been established between Granada
and Malaga, and was to arrive for the first time at Malaga the
very day I left that city.  From Malaga, the road to Gibraltar
along the seacoast is easy, and requires but two days; ladies can
travel it comfortably on mules or horses with saddles like arm



.ET. 45.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   309
chairs.  From  Gibraltar the road to Cadiz is likewise very
practicable for ladies, and is one of the safest in Spain.  We
took no escort on that road; part of it lies through mountains
beautifully wooded.  It affords a pleasant specimen of miountain travelling, without the hardships of the other sierras, for
you can always put up at good inns.  From Cadiz, the steamboat takes you to Seville, and here you meet the diligence to
take you back to Madrid.  It would be a tour with which Mrs.
Everett would be particularly interested, and Miss Louisa might
find materials to fill her letters to her friends with wonderful
details.  I have been fortunate enough to meet with Wilkie
here, and promise myself much gratification in visiting the
masterpieces of Murillo in company with him.
There appears to be much to be seen in this city, and the
whole character of the place is peculiar, retaining a strong infusion of the old Moresco.  I am  apprehensive it will be
close and sultry in summer, though I am assured that the mode
of living in the lower stories, with patios covered with awnings, and deep in the interior of the houses, guarantees one
against the heat of the sun.  The houses have certainly a cool
and delicious appearance, the inner courts, shady, decorated
with fountains, and set out with citrons, oranges, and flowers.
If I find them  as comfortable in hot weather as they are
described, I shall probably remain some time here.
To Peter he writes the same day, which was the
day after his arrival at Seville, which he considered
the end of his tour:
Wilkie is here, and will remain here a few  days longer,
when he returns to Madrid, and thence proceeds to Paris.
He has sketched out on canvas his defence of Saragossa, in




310                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1828.
which he has introduced an excellent likeness of Palafox.
The Prince Dolgorouki writes to me in the highest terms of this
picture. My stay in Seville is uncertain. I have not seen the
libraries.  I shall probably remain here some weeks till I can
get the work we talked of in order for the press.
The work here alluded to was the Conquest of
Granada, which he had brought with him  in an unfinished state from  Madrid.  "If I continue in motion," he acds,   I shall lose the fall season.  I think
a little close application and hard work will soon get all
in train."  He also anticipated the necessity of considerable emendations in the second edition of Columbus,
from  some English  publications which  Murray had
sent him, and some curtailments to reduce the volume
of the work.
Instead of the few weeks which he speaks of as the
probable limit of his stay in Seville, we shall find his
sojourn in that beautiful city and its vicinity prolonged
to more than a year.




JET. 45.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                       311
CHAPTER XVIII.
EXTRACTS FROM DIARY-WILKIE AND THE PAINTING OF ST. THOMAS-LETTER TO
ALEXANDER H. EVERETT-QUARTERS AT MRS. STALKER'S-LETTER TO ALEXANDER H. EVERETT, AFTER RECEIVING HIS OPINION OF COLUMIBUS-LETTER
TO PRINCE DOLGOROUKI-CHARACTER OF THE ANDALUSIANS-THE CHURCHES
RICH IN PAINTINGS-LETTER TO MIADEMOISELLE BOLVILLER-THE ACCUMULATING DEBT OF CORRESPONDENCE-BULL FIGHTS, HIS NOTION OF-SEVILLE
A RESIDENCE FOR A COURT-SAN JUAN DE ALFARACHE-RELICS OF MOORISH
LABOR AND MOORISH TASTE.
I  INTRODUCE a few extracts from his diary:
Friday, April 1 8th. —Went with Wilkie and Mr.-,
and a young gentleman of Lima to see the church of La Caridad-noble painting of Moses striking the rock-opposite, the
miracle of the loaves and fishes.
Went into  chapel of St. Thomas-saw  St. Thomas, by, fine painting-much admired hy Wilkie.  [The artist
for whose name Mr. Irving, when making his record, was evidently at a loss, was Zurbaran, who preceded Murillo; the
painting, St. Thomas Aquinas. I have heard him speak of the
impression it produced on Wilkie, who stood gazing at it for a
long while in deep admiration, and then gave vent to his surprise at the early perfection of Spanish art: " And this they
had before Murillo."]
Tuesday, April 22d.-Sat to Wilkie this morning for a




312                 LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1828.
sketch of my portrait-go with him  and Sig. -         to the
library of the city —small collection-old friar very kind and
attentive-likenesses of Murillo and Velasquez painted by
themselves.
Wednesday, 23d. —Write letter to Mr. Everett-call on
Wilkie, who finishes my portrait-dine with Gessler and Stoffregen at Mrs. Stalker's [an English boarding house].
I give the letter to Mr. Everett, which is in answer
to one referring to a notice of Columbus from the London Times, and announcing his intention of preparing
a review of the work for the North American, in which
it appeared in the succeeding January.
[To Mr. Alexander HI. Everett.]
SEVILLE, April 23, 1828.
MY DEAR SIR:
*  *  *  I am much obliged to you for the kind interest
you express in my literary concerns, and am happy to find you
intend to review my work, as I am sure it will meet with a
fair and able criticism from your pen.  Mr. Rich has enclosed
me the review from the Times. I rather derive encouragement
from it than otherwise.  The great fault found by the critic is,
that my work contains but little novelty of fact, the main body
of information being already in existence in the works of Las
Casas, Herrera, and Fernando  Colon.  He ought to have
added Peter Martyr and the Curate de los Palacios.  This is
only to say what I have said myself in my preface, that the information relative to Columbus was scattered through a variety
of works, and substantiates my assertion that a history combining all that had been related by different historians as well as
the minor but very interesting facts existing in various docun




iET. 45.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   313
ments recently discovered, was a desideratum  in literature.
What general reader will hunt up the various works I have
mentioned, to obtain from them full information respecting Columbus and his voyages? yet unless he read them  all he will
be but partially informed on the subject.
The English reader hitherto has derived his information on
this head almost exclusively from  the notice of Columbus in
Dr. Robertson's history; this, though admirably executed, is
but a general outline.  It occupies one hundred and twenty or
thirty pages.  I found a faithful narration of all that was likely
to be interesting to the reader, particularly the American
reader, would occupy at least one thousand.  No one is more
likely to be well informed on this subject than yourself, and I
recollect in a conversation with you at the time I undertook
the work you expressed your surprise that no complete history
of Columbus was in existence.
If, therefore, as this critic says, my work is " elegantly and
agreeably written," so as to form to those who learn the history of Columbus from it for the first time, " a most delightful
production," I have in a great measure attained my end.
I have received much encouragement from various private
letters, expressing the opinions of my correspondents themselves, and of others of note, particularly of Sir James Mackintosh, who has been very flattering in his eulogiums.
As to Murray, he sends me a verbal message by Mr. Rich,
requesting alterations and corrections, instead of writing particularly to me on the subject.  I have always foreseen that
there would be many corrections required in the second edition,
and would have been glad to have had any errors I had corn
mitted clearly pointed out that I might amend them.
VOL. II.-14




314                 LiFE AND LETTERS                    [1828.
*- *      I have concluded to remain for the present at
Seville, and will therefore be much obliged to you if you will
forward to me the books sent by Mr. Murray, as I wish to
mnake the necessary corrections as soon as possibe.
I will thank you to forward them  by the first diligence,
directed to me to the care of Don Miguel Walsh, the British
Consul.  If you will have the goodness to put the seal of the
legation on them it will make the parcel more respected, as
books are articles of violent suspicion in this country.
*  *   e  In perusing my work, should you observe any
faults which I might amend in the second edition, I would take
it as an especial favor if you would point them  out. My corrections will chiefly be confined to errors in facts, to repetitions
or inaccuracies in language, &c.  I have no idea of writing up
any part of the work to a higher tone.  It is generally labor
lost to attempt to make a work better that has already made
its impression on the public.
I have visited the archives of the Indias, and presented a
letter of introduction to the chief.  He tells me, however, that
it is necessary to have an express order from the king before I
can inspect the archives or make any extracts or copies. I
wish very much to examine some documents prior to publishing the second edition of my work.  Can you, without inconvenience in your intercouse at court proporcionctr me an order
of the kind?
Mr. Wilkie leaves Seville to-morrow in the diligence for
Madrid, where he proposes to remain a week and then to continue on to Paris.
I have been much interested in visiting some of the masterpieces of the Spanish painters with him. His observations on
paintings are full of maxims on the art, and of maxims that




ET. 45.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 315
apply to art generally.  You will find a conversation with him
on his return extremely gratifying, and he will feel a pleasure
in conversing with you, for he entertains a very high opinion
of you, as well as a grateful sense of the kind services you have
rendered him.
Present my kindest remembrances to Mrs. Everett and
Miss Louisa, and believe me, my dear Sir,
Very truly yours,
WASHINGTON IRVING.
Mr. Irving parted with Willie on the 24th of April,
and soon after changed his lodgings from  the Fonda
de la Reyna to Mrs. Stalker's, where he remained
during the months of May and June.  Here he formed
the acquaintance of John Nalder Hall, a young Englishman in delicate health, of whom mention will be made
hereafter.
The letters which follow were addressed from these
quarters.
[To Mr. Alexander IE. Everett.]
SEVILLE, May, 7, 1828.
MY DEAR SIR:
I cannot tell you how gratified I am by the very
favorable opinion you have expressed of niy work.  To tell
you the truth, I stood in great awe of your opinion. I knew you
to he more competent than most men to judge in the matter, and
that you had a terribly keen searching eye in literature as well as
politics. I can only say that since I read your letter my mind has
been relieved from a thousand doubts and anxieties, and I have




316                  LIFE AND LETTERS                   11S28.
enjoyed a tranquillity as to the ultimate success of my work,
which none of the previous letters I had received from  my
friends has been able to produce.
I shall immediately set about the corrections for the second
edition, which I perceive will be by no means so important as
I had apprehended.
The hints of honest Rich will be of great service, and I
shall feel greatly indebted to you if you will point out any
that may occur to you in looking over the volumes in the
course of your critical examination.
As to visiting the archives here, if it is a matter of such
difficulty on the part of the government, I would not wish you
to press it. I had supposed a simple application would have
been sufficient. There are some documents concerning Columbus of which Mr. Navarrete has obtained copies, which he intends to publish in his third volume, and of which I have never
been able to obtain a full sight at Madrid.  I should have
wished to get a sight of these, as I fear the third volume of
Mr. Navarrete will be as long in making its appearance as
the Jewish Messiah.  It is not, however, a matter of much
moment.
The documents are probably of greater importance in the
eyes of Mr. Navarrete than they would be in the eyes of the
public, and I believe I have already either ascertained or divined the substance of them.  When Mr. Rich returns, he will
probably be able to procure me a copy of Navarrete's third
volume, if it is actually in the press.  *  *
SEVILLE, May 18, 1828.
MY DEAR DOLGOROUKI:
* -*  You talk in your letters of the possibility of
your paying Seville a visit. I fear you will defer it till after my




.ET. 45.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  317
departure.  The weather will soon be too hot to admit of your
travelling so far to the south; and I question my remaining
here until the cool autumnal months.  Nothing would give me
greater pleasure than to ramble about Seville and its vicinity,
in company with you.  It is a place full of interest, both as
it relates to works of art, and to the character of the place itself
and its inhabitants.
The Andalusians are further removed from  the rest of
Europeans in their characteristics, than any of the people of
Spain that I have seen.  They belong more to Africa in
many of their traits and habitudes; and when I am mingling
among them in some of their old country towns, I can scarcely
persuade myself that the expulsion of the Moors has been
anything more than nominal.
Stoffregen has no doubt given you an account of a great
cattle fair, which we visited  a few  leagues from  Seville.
When I was in the centre of this fair, with tents pitched
around me, droves of cattle, and troops of horsemen in the
Andalusian costume riding about the fields in every direction,
I could scarce persuade myself that I was in Europe, and
that it was not a wild, roving encampment of some predatory
Arab army.
The churches here would furnish you with continual banquets. They are extremely rich in paintings, and, what gives
the greatest zest to your enjoyment, is the idea that these
paintings are but little known to the world at large.  They are
not like the great paintings of Italy, which have been admired
and extolled and criticised, and written about, by every connoisseur, or would-be connoisseur, who has made the grand tour.
A celebrated Italian painting is like the belle of a metropolis,
who is so much admired and talked about that the imagina



318                  LIFE AND LETTERS                     [1828.
tion grows weary  of her;  she seems to grow  stale and
common both to eye and ear;  but one of these Spanish
masterpieces, in an obscure convent seldom  visited by the
foot of a traveller, is like a beauty in a country village, fresh
and sweet from  being rarely seen and stared at.  For my
part, I feel less interest in great belles or great paintings, which
all the world know and admire, than I do in those out of the way
beauties which one seems to have discovered.  Indeed I carry
this so far that I have two or three delicious little Murillos which
I have found out in obscure and almost remote chapels or convents, and which I in a manner keep to myself. I carry on a kind
of intrigue with them, visiting them quietly and alone; and I
cannot tell you what delightful moments I pass in their company; enhanced by the idea of their being so private and
retired. The moment a painting is drawn forth from its native
chapel or convent, and introduced upon town in a public gallery,
it loses half its charms with me; and as to those renowned
"Virgins" who are visited by all the rabble rout of travellers,
they are not ladies for my money.
May 21st.-You tell me you are studying the English
again; are you really studying it, or only dipping into it occasionally, leaving intervals sufficient between your lessons
to forget them.  A  few weeks' steady application would put
you in complete possession of the language, and I should be
delighted when next we meet to have a free medium of communication between us.  I fear I shall never acquire sufficient
fluency in the French to speak it with ease and pleasure.  I
always feel shackled in it, and cannot express all that I think,
nor give any turn or coloring to my thoughts; and what is
social intercourse when one has to struggle with such impediments?  Do therefore study English a little for my sake,




z.T. 45.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   319
and now and then take an extra lesson merely as an act of
friendship.
You say you are in a state of warfare with Mademoiselle
Antoinette; do not expect any aid or connivance on my part.
I-am her most faithful ally, and shall certainly take her part if
you dare to advance beyond the Pruth.   In the mean time,
until I see hostilities actually commenced, I remain as ever,
your assured friend,
WASHNGTON INGTON I.
[To Mademoiselle Bolviller, Madrid.]
SEVILLE, May 28, 1828.
I have suffered some time to elapse, my dear Mademoiselle
Antoinette, without replying to your charming letter, but I
have had a long arrearage of letters to pay off to correspondents
in Europe and America, and many lie by me yet unanswered.
Oh! this continually accumulating debt of correspondence! It
grows while we sleep, and recurs as fast as we can pay it off.
Would that I had the turn and taste for letter writing of our
friend the prince, to whom it seems a perfect delight; who,
like an industrious spider, can sit in that little dark room and
spin out a web of pleasant fancies from  his own brain; or
rather, to make a more gracious comparison, like a honey bee
goes humming about the world, and when he has visited every
flower, returns buzz-buzz-buzz to his little hive, and works
all that he has collected into a perfect honeycomb of a letter.
For my part, I know no greater delight than to receive letters;
but the replying to them is a grievous tax upon my negligent
nature.  I sometimes think one of the great blessings we shall
enjoy in heaven, will be to receive letters by every post and
never be obliged to reply to them.




320                  LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1828.
Do not think, however, that what I have said applies to my
correspondence with you; or with that truly good boy, the
prince.  With me it is in letter writing as in conversation, I
must feel a particular interest in a person to be able to acquit
myself with any degree of attention and animation in either;
but there are those with whom it is a real pleasure, both to converse and correspond. It is the number of uninteresting persons
with whom one must keep up correspondence and conversation of
mere civility that makes a toil of the common intercourse of life.
You tell me you have been at a bull fight, and that you
have renounced all amusements of the kind forever.  I should
be much mistaken in the opinion I have formed of you, could
you really relish those barbarous spectacles. Depend upon it,
it is neither the better nor the braver parts of our nature that
is gratified by them.  There appears to me a mixture of cowardice and ferocity in  looking  on in  selfish security and
enjoying the perils and sufferings of others. The " divinity
that dwells within us" has nothing to do with pleasures
of the kind, they belong to our earthly, our gross and savage
nature.  I have sunk considerably in my own estimation since
I have found I could derive gratification from these sights; I
should have been grieved to find you as bad in this respect as
myself.
I am sorry to hear that you are to pass your summer in
Madrid and not to visit Aranjuez or La Granja.  WVhat a pity
that the diplomatic circle should be doomed to the sterile monotony of that city of the desert; what a residence this Seville
might be made for a court! Such a heavenly climate and
delightful neighborhood; such fine rides, such pleasant country retreats, such water excursions on the Guadalquivir! I
have visited some lovely places in the vicinity; and whenever




JET. 45.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                    321
I find any situation peculiarly delicious, I am  sure to find that
it has been a favorite resort of those noble fellows, the Moors.
I made an excursion a few  days since down the Guadalquivir to an old convent, called S. Juan de Alfarache, which
is built among the ruins of a Moorish castle, and I dined at a
country seat in the neighborhood, which had been the retreat
of some Moorish family.  You cannot imagine scenery more
soft, graceful, luxuriant, and beautiful. These retreats are built
along the side of a ridge of hills overlooking the fertile valley
of the Guadalquivir, and the serpentine windings of that river,
with Seville and its towers rising at a distance, and the Ronda
mountains bounding the landscape.  But consider all this ridge
of hills and the valley immediately below you a perfect garden,
filled with oranges, citrons, figs, grapes, pomegranates; hedged
by the aloe and the Indian fig in blossom; the whole country
covered with flowers, such as in other countries are raised in
hothouses, but here growing wild; for the very weeds are
flowers and aromatic plants.  Fancy all this lovely landscape
rendered fresh and sweet by recent showers, the soft air loaded
with fragrance and the hum  of bees on every side, and the
songs of thousands of nightingales reminding you of spring time
and the season of flowers.
In these country seats one continually meets with the relics of Moorish labor and Moorish taste; channels cut into
the sides of the hills, through the living rock, in search of
choice springs of cold and- delicate water, and basins and fountains to collect it and to cool the courts and halls of the mansions.
The pleasantest excursion, however, that I have made fiom
Seville was to Alcala de la Guadayra.  It is situated on the
VOL. II. —14       (21)




322                  LIFE AND LETTERS                     [1828.
Guadayra, a beautiful little winding stream  that throws itself
into the Guadacllquivir near to Seville.  At Alcala there are
noble remains of an immense Moorish castle, the towers and
walls in fine preservation.
Nothing can be more charming than the windings of the
little river among banks hanging with gardens and orchards of
all kinds of delicate southern fruits, and tufted with flowers and
aromatic plants.  The nightingales throng this lovely little
valley as numerously as they do the gardens of Aranjuez.
Every bend of the river presents a new landscape, for it is
beset by old Moorish mills of the most picturesque forms; each
mill having an embattled tower-a memento of the valiant
tenure by which those gallant fellows, the Moors, held this
earthly paradise, having to be ready at all times for war, and
as it were to work with one hand and fight with the other. It
is impossible to travel about Andalusia and not imbibe a kind
feeling for those Moors.  They deserved this beautiful country.
They won it bravely; they enjoyed it generously and kindly.
No lover ever delighted more to cherish and adorn a mistress,
to heighten and illustrate her charms, and to vindicate and defend her against all the world than did the Moors to embellish,
enrich, elevate, and defend their beloved Spain.  Everywhere
I meet traces of their sagacity, courage, urbanity, high poetical
feeling, and elegant taste.  The noblest institutions in this part
of Spain, the best inventions for comfortable and agreeable
living, and all those habitudes and customs which throw  a
peculiar and oriental charm over the Andalusian mode of living
may be traced to the Moors.  Whenever I enter these beautifuJ marble patios, set out with shrubs and flowers, refreshed
by fountains, sheltered with awnings from  the sun; where the
air is cool at noonday, the ear delighted in' sultry summer by




JET. 45.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   323
the sound of falling water; where, in a word, a little paradise
is shut up within the walls of home; I think on the poor
Moors, the inventors of all these delights.  I am  at times
almost ready to join in sentiment with a worthy friend and
countryman of mine whom  I met in Malaga, who swears the
Moors are the only people that ever deserved the country, and
prays to heaven they may come over from Africa and conquer
it again.
You promise to give me the news of the gay world of
Madrid.  I shall be delighted to receive it from you, but you
need not go out of the walls of your own house to find subjects
full of interest for me. Let me have all the news you can of
your domestic circle; you have a world within yourselves; at
least it was all the world to me while at Madrid.  Stoffregen,
I presume, is like Sinbad when he returned from his voyages,
he has so much to relate.  The prince talks something of
coming to Seville.  Is there any probability of it?  I should
mark the day of his arrival with a white stone, and would be
delighted to be his cicerone.
Tell me everything about the children.  I suppose the discreet princess will soon consider it an indignity to be ranked
among the number.  I am told she is growing with might and
main, and is determined not to stop until she is a woman outright.  I would give all the money in my pocket to be with
those dear little women at the round table in the saloon, or on
the grassplot in the garden, to tell ttem some marvellous tales.
Give my kind remembrances to Mr. and Madame D'Oubril
and to all the household, large and small. I hope Mademoiselle
Constance keeps her little flock in order, and that Madame.Agnes has as great command as ever over the little sons. Tell




324                LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1828.
my little Marie I kiss her hand and hold myself her loyal and
devoted knight. If she wishes at any time the head of a giant
or the tail of a fiery dragon, she has but to call upon me. My
arm and my court sword are always at her command.
With the greatest regard, your friend,
WASIINGTON IRVING.




iET. 45.1          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                      325
CHAPTER XIX.
REMOVES TO A COTTAGE IN THE VICINITY OF SEVILLE-LETTER TO ALEXANDER
H. EVERETT-LETTER TO MADEMOISELLE BOLVILLER-THE QUIET AND COMrFORT OF HIS NEW  QUARTERS-THE CATHEDRAL OF SEVILLE-LETTER TO
PRINCE DOLGOROUKI-IMPRESSIONS OF SPANISH BEAUTY-ADVICE-WILKIELETTER TO ALEXANDER H. EVERETT RESPECTING COLUMBUS-LETTER TO
PETER IRVING-CONQUEST OF GRANADA-ARRANGEMENT WITH CAREY-JOURNEY TO PALOS-LETTER TO ALEXANDER H. EVERETT, IN REPLY TO ONE ANNOUNCING THE KING S PERMISSION TO HIMI TO INSPECT THE ARCHIVES OF
THE INDIAS, AND GIVING HIM AN EXTRACT FROM HIS CRITIQUE ON COLUMBUS.
O   N  the first of July, Mr. Irving removed with John
Nalder Hall, the young Englishman  in delicate
health, who had been his fellow lodger at Mrs. Stalker's,
to a cottage in the vicinity of Seville, where he passed
six weeks, occupied upon the Conquest of Granada and
a second edition of Columbus.  This cottage was enclosed by  a high wall, and  at sunset the keeper shut
the gates and locked them  in for the night.  Occasionally the gates were closed  also upon some suspicious
looking horsemen, who would come and go nmysteriously,
and to whom  the keeper would appear to be giving harbor for the night.
The record in his diary of the second day's sojourn,




326                 LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1828.
would seem  to mark their lonely abode for an ominous
vicinity.
Wednesday, Jlly 2d.-At Casa de Cera-write at Granada
-evening go out with Hall who rides while I wal —make a
tour by the river Guadayra-old Moorish mill-bridge near by,
with cross on it of murdered traveller.
It was from  this cottage, in which they hoped to get
through  the hot season  better than they should  at
Seville, that the following letters were addressed.
In the second, which has more or less bearing upon
his personal and literary life, will be found a description of these new quarters, for which he had exchanged
his English boarding house in Seville, and an allusion
to the companion who shared them with him.
[To Mr. Alexzcnder II. Everett.]
SEVILLE, July 11, 1828.
MY DEAR SIR:
* **  I am so much out of the world here that I hear
nothing.  A newspaper three or four weeks old is full of intelligence to me, and quite fresh in its contents.
I have corrected my work on Columbus for a second
edition, as far as I have the means of doing so.  Mr. Rich
writes me word that Mr. Nava.rrete says his third volume will
contain some curious matter for my second edition. *       I
am told his work will not appear until September, and I presume we may allow a still more remote date in consequence of
the customary delays in this country.  I cannot defer the pub



JET. 45.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  32
lication of the second edition for such an indefinite period.  I
believe the most material facts Mr. Navarrete alludes to are
drawn from  the papers of the pleito, between the heirs of
Christopher Columbus and the Spanish crown.  Should you
have occasion to see Mr. Salmon in the course of your official
transactions, I should take it as a kindness if you would procure me an order to inspect the papers and documents "in the
pleito between the Admiral Don Diego Colon and the fiscal of
the crown, and any other papers that may relate to the history
of Christopher Columbus."  The part of the request underlined
you may omit should it cause any difficulty.  I believe an
order will readily be granted for any specific documents.  The
difficulty only is with respect to general requests to search the
archives.  I find great kindness and attention here among the
people of the cathedral and its librarians.  In the course of my
rummaging, I have come by chance upon a work on Cosmography, &c., by the Cardinal Pedro Aliaco, which is cited by
Las Casas as having been several times in his hands, and full
of marginal notes by Columbus and his brother, the Adelantado.  I found the precise work, with all the marginal notes,
mostly in Latin, remarkably neatly written. It is curious in
the extreme, as containing relations, &c., of Columbus, of
various things bearing upon his theory, and written prior to
the discovery.  None of the people of the library knew of its
being the handwriting of Columbus; or, indeed, seemed to attach any particular value to the book until I made them  sensible of it. What a prize this would have been for friend Rich.
[To Mademoiselle Bolviller, Mldarid.]
SEVILLE, July 20, 1828.
I ought to make you many excuses, my dear Mademoiselle
Antoinette, for suffering so long a time to elapse without




328                  LIFE AND LETTERS                     [1828.
writing, but the weather set in exceedingly hot, and for a time
seemed to incapacitate me for every mental exertion, and I
afterwards became unsettled in all my customary habits by a
change of residence, having taken up my quarters"in'  a cottage
about half a league from Seville.  I shall now endeavor to get
myself "en train."  From  what I have written to you about
scenes in Andalusia I find you have taken  an idea that
this is a most lovely and most wonderful country; but you
must recollect I only speak of particular places. The general
appearance of Andalusian plains, for a great part of the year,
is cheerless and sunburnt, from the heat of the climate and the
want of trees, that prevalent defect in Spanish scenery.  The
cottage in which I am  residing looks, out ovq  an4. immense
plain, called the "Tablada," whic  i  now? completely parched,
and the air from  it as warm  as the vapor of a furnace.  No
trees are to be seen, except at a great distance a few plantations of olives-those Wretched groves, which to my eye make
a landscape still more arid.  The great comfort of the cottage
is a little garden behind it full of orange and citron trees, with
a porch overhung with grape vines and jessamines.  I have
taken up my quarters here with a young English gentleman,
who is in a critical state of health from having broken a blood
vessel.  The place suits me from its uninterrupted quiet.  The
mornings and evenings are cool from the prevalence of the sea
breezes, and the nights are delicious.  I pass my time here,
therefore, completely undisturbed, having no visits either to
pay or to receive; with a horse to ride about the plain for exercise, or to take me to Seville when I wish to visit the library.
It is a long time since I have been so tranquil, so completely
insulated, so freed from the noises and distractions of the town,
and I cannot tell you how much I relish it.  There is a quiet




ElT. 45.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                     329
and deep enjoyment in sitting out in the air in the still serenity
of the country, and passing one of these balmy summer nights
in gazing at the stars. They have the purity and splendor in
this clear atmosphere which I have witnessed nowhere else
save in my own country.  Though within only two miles of
Seville, the landscape is as solitary as it would be at fifty miles'
distance from  a town in any other country; and nothing reminds one of the vicinity at night but the deep chimes of the
cathedral bells, which are rich and melodious in their tones,
and  have a magnificent sound  as heard  across the plain.
When I get for a time in the country, even in this comfortless
and melancholy country of Spain, I feel such a tranquillity of
the spirits, such a cessation of all those agitations and petty
cares that perplex me in town, that I wonder at having passed
so much of my life in scenes in which I take so little relish,
and to which I feel myself so little adapted.  We are great
cheats to ourselves, and defraud ourselves out of a great portion of this our petty term  of existence, filling it up with idle
ceremonies and irksome occupations and unnecessary cares.
By dint of passing our time in the distractions of a continual
succession of society, we lose all intimacy with what ought to
be our best and most cherished society, ourselves.  And by
fixing our attention on the vapid amusements and paltry splendors of a town, we lose all perceptions of the serene and elevating pleasures and the magnificent spectacles presented us by
nature.  WVhat soiree in Madrid could repay me for a calm,
delicious evening passed here among the old trees of the garden, in untroubled  thought or unbroken reverie-or what
splendor of ballroom, or court itself, can equal the glory of
sunset, or the serene magnificence of the moon and stars shining so clearly above me.  e          *




330                  LIFE AND LETTERS                      [1S28.
21st.-I have been dwelling most extravagantly, you will
think, upon the charms of country life, and yet the deep chimes
of the cathedral bells which throw such a solemn charm  over
the solitary plain in the evenings, seem to claim some testimony in favor of that noble building.  If ever you come to Seville, be sure to visit its glorious cathedral. That, however,
you will be sure to do; your good taste will not suffer you to
keep away, but visit it more than once; visit it in the evenings, when the last rays of the sun, or rather the last glimmer
of the daylight, is shining  through  its painted windows.
Visit it at night, when its various chapels are partially lighted
up, its immense aisles are dimly illuminated by their rows of
silver lamps, and when mass is preparing amidst gleams of
gold and clouds of incense at its high altar.  Visit it at those
times, and, if possible, go alone, or with as few gay ladies and
gentlemen as possible, for they are the worst kind of companions for a cathedral.  I do not think altogether I have ever
been equally delighted with any building of the kind.  It is so
majestic, ample, and complete; so sumptuous in all its appointments, and noble and august in its ceremonies.  It is near the
house where I lodged when in Seville, and was my daily resort.  Indeed, I often visited it more than once in the course
of the day. It is delightful to me to have a grand and solemn
building of the kind near to me in a city. It is a resort where
one gets rid of the noise, and nonsense, and littleness of the
petty world around one, and  can call up in some degree
(though after all but slightly) a glow  of solemn and poetical
feeling; the most difficult of all sentiments to be summoned up
in a city.
A quiet saunter about a cathedral, particularly towards the
evening, when the shades are deeper and the light of the




LET. 45.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                    331
painted windows more dim  and vague, has the effect upon me
of a walk in one of our great American forests.  I cannot
compare the scenes, but their sublime and solitary features produce the same dilation of the heart and swelling of the spirit,
the same aspiring and longing after something exalted and indefinite; something-I know not what, but something which I
feel this world cannot give me.  WVhen my eye follows up
these great clustering columns until lost in the obscurity of the
lofty and spacious vaults, I feel as I have done when gazing up
along th thtrunks of our mighty trees that have stood for ages,
and tracing them out to the topmost branches which tower out
of the brown forest into the deep blue sky-my thoughts and
feelings seem  carried up with them  until they expand and are
lost in the immensity.  I find I am  running into very long
tirades in this letter, and am spinning out thoughts for the want
of facts to relate.  But I have no domestic gossip nor the chitchat of a circle of acquaintances to communicate, which are
the lively and interesting materials for a letter; you must excuse, therefore, my prosing. Give my love to all my dear little
friends of the round table, from  the discreet princess down to
the little blue-eyed boy. Tell lat petite Mlarie that I still remain
true to her, though surrounded by all the beauties of Seville,
and that I swear (but this she must keep between ourselves)
that there is not a little- woman to compare with her in all
Andalusia.  With my kindest remembrances to Mons. and
Madame D'Oubril, and to my good friend, Mlle. Constance,
I am, my dear friend, very truly yours,
WASHINGTON IRVING.




332                  LIFE AND LETTERS                      [1828
SEVILLE, July 21, 1828.
MY DEAR DOLGOROUKII:
I find if one would not be forgotten by one's friends it is
necessary to keep up a regular epistolary fire; but what novelty
can I furnish, vegetating as I do in the midst of a sunburnt
Andalusian plain, to you, surrounded by the bustle of a diplomatic life and the gayety and gossip of a capital?  What can
I tell you of Seville that you have not heard a thousand times?
I know nothing of its inhabitants, for I have not mingled with
them.  As to the famed beauty of its women, I am inclined to
set  it down as one of those traditional things that has commenced in fact, and been handed down from  age to age, and
from  traveller to traveller, though it has long since become a
falsehood.  There are beautiful women in Seville as (God be
praised for all HIis mercies) there are in all other great cities;
but do not, my worthy and inquiring friend, do not come to
Seville as I did, expecting a perfect beauty to be staring you
in the face at every turn, or you will be awfully disappointed.
Andalusia, generally speaking, derives its renown for the beauty
of its women and the beauty of its landscapes, from the rare
and captivating charms of individuals.  The generality of its
female faces are as sunburnt and void of bloom  and freshness
as its plains.  I am convinced, the great fascination of Spanish
women arises from  their natural talent, their fire and soul,
which beam  through their dark and flashing eyes, and kindle
up their whole countenance in the course of an interesting conversation.  As I have but few opportunities of judging of them
in this way, I can only criticise them  with the eye of a sauntering observer.  It is like judging of a fountain when it is not
in play, or a fire when it lies dormant and neither flames nor
sparkles.  After all it is the divinity within which makes the




.ET. 45.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   333
divinity woithout; and I have been more fascinated by a woman
of talent and intelligence, though deficient in personal charms,
than I have been by the most regular beauty.
I presume your secretaryship  multiplies your labors, and
with your usual Duende habits keeps you in a continual bustle.
You repine at times at the futility of the gay and great world
about you.  The world is pretty much what we make it; and
it will be filled up with nullities and trifles if we suffer them
to occupy our attention.  My dear Prince-I ask pardon-my
dear Dolgorouki-you have everything before you, and heaven
has given you talents to shape and omould this gay chaos to
your own purposes if you will but set about it rightly.  Fix
your attention on noble objects and noble purposes, and sacrifice
all temporary and trivial things to their attainment. Consider
everything not as to its present importance and effect, but with
relation to what it is to produce some time hence. If a pursuit-whether it is to lead to a valuable accomplishment, to
add to your stock of serviceable knowledge, to increase your
intellectual means, and give future dignity to your name.  In
society, let what is merely amusing occupy but the waste moments of your leisure and the mere surface of your thoughts;
cultivate such intimacies only as may ripen into lasting friendships, or furnish your memory with valuable recollections.
Above all, mark one line in which to excel, and bend all your
thoughts and exertions to rise to eminence or rather to advance
towards perfection in that line.  In this way you will find your
views gradually converging towards one point, instead of being
distracted by a thousand objects.  You will be surprised how
* The Prince, before an Attach6, was now Secretary of Legation to the
Russian embassy.




334                  LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1828.
soon you will become disentangled from  the thousand petty
cares, and petty pleasures, and petty troubles that are now
spun round you like spiders' webs, and you will be surprised
also to find how full of really great objects the world is around
you, but which you were prevented from  seeing by the intruding trifles at the end of your nose.
Have you heard from Wilkie since his arrival in London?
I am extremely anxious to know how he finds himself after his
return in his own native country, and how his late paintings
are relished by his countrymen. I saw lately the portrait he
made of a little girl after his return to Madrid;  it was sent
here to be forwarded to London. W;hen I recollect how slowly
he used to work and how laboriously to finish, I am astonished
to perceive the facility with which he has adopted so opposite
a manner.  I think he has gained greatly in the freedom  of
his pencil and the general effect of his paintings.
You once offered me a Spanish work, entitled, I think,
El orzgen cle las Indias.  I am just now engaged in some researches in which I wish to consult it, but cannot procure it in
this place. If you have an opportunity, I wish you would send
it to me, and I will return it when I have done with it.
I regret extremely that there is no likelihood of your visiting Seville while I am  here.  *   *  *  The chances of my
return to Madrid are very slight, yet I cannot endure the idea
that I am to leave Spain without seeing anything more of any
of your household. But to return to Madrid would interfere
with all my plans, and throw  me again into the midst of
friendly connections from which it would cost me painful exertions again to tear myself.  * *   e
Farewell, my dear Dolgorouki.  Your fiiend,
WASHINGTON IRVING.




LET. 45.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   335
[To alfr. Alexander IH. Everett.]
SEVILLE, July 31, 1828.
MY DEAR SIR:I feel much obliged to you for your kindness in
repeating to me the favorable things which have been said of
my work.  I am almost entirely out of the way of hearing any
thing here. There is one fact in my history which I have not
seen pointed out, but which I think' places the character of
Columbus and his enterprises in a different light from that in
which I had previously contemplated them; it is his advanced
age.  Mufioz, and I think Robertson, had made him  born
about 1445 or'6.  I make him  about ten years older; a fact
established by the authority of the curate of Los Palacios, his
friend and host, and corroborated by various other circunmstances in his life and his letters. It is singular that the passage in the manuscript of the curate of Los Palacios should have
been overlooked by the historians who had it in their hands.
I think all the actions of Columbus, his perseverance, his fortitude, his undaunted enterprises, receive wonderful additional
force from his advanced age.
I find Mr. Sparks is in London, prosecuting his researches
and endeavoring to bargain with Murray for his correspondence, &c., of Washington, though, according to Aspinwall,
Murray fights rather shy; being deterred by the size of the
work.  He cannot fail to make a valuable speculation as well
as a very interesting work of it.
I observe from your letter that Murray has not written to
you on the subject of your work. I do not wonder at it. He is
the most negligent man in his correspondence (for a man of business) that I ever had any dealings with.  I have felt extremely
vexed at times, until I found that he was so to everybody.




336                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1828.
The work  of Mr. Everett, here alluded  to, was
entitled 6 America; or, A  General Survey of the Political Situation of the several Powers of the Western
Continent, with Conjectures upon their future Prospects," which Murray had engaged to publish, and
which was published by him  before the close of the
year.
The arrangement with Messrs. Carey, Lea & Carey
of Philadelphia, alluded  to  in  the  following  letter, was an  assignment of the right of publishing
four of his works-Knic rbocboker's History of New
York, the Sketch  Book, Bracebridge Hall, and the
Tales of a Traveller, for seven years at $600 a yearan  arrangement already  referred  to  on  a previous
page.
[To Peter Irving.]
SEVILLE, August 2, 1828.
MY DEAR BROTHER:
*         I have been hard at work, notwithstanding the
heat of the weather.  The corrections of Columbus have cost
me more time and labor than I had anticipated, for when I
once begin to alter and correct, I know not when to finish. I
have completed them, however, and shall send off the books by
the first opportunity.
I am working at the Chronicle of A.gapida, and am getting
the part that I have finished copied; but this last is slow business, and will cause some delay. I trust, however, to get it
ready for the fall season.  My chief fear of the work is that
there will be found to be too much in it of the same kind of
thing-that it may prove monotonous, and in some parts




iET. 45.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   337
heavy.  I shall work it up, however, as much as possible, and
endeavor to lighten it where it is vefyihty. * e  *
The letters from  E. Irving are very satisfactory.  I am
glad he has made the arrangement with Carey, as it will probably be more profitable, and it will certainly relieve him from a
vast deal of trouble.  The works also will be put into wider
and more active circulation. As to money matters, I feel cuite
easy at present in respect to them.  I have no great care to
make much money; my only wish is to be placed out of the
reach of embarrassment, and I feel confident now that we shall
neither of us have any further perplexity or troutle on this
head.
Nine days after the date of the preceding letter,
M/r. Irving set out in a calesa, on a rough journey to
Palos, fourteen leagues distant, whence the little squadron of Columbus made sail for the new  world.   HIe
gave to the public an interesting sketch of this visit
in the Appendix to the second edition of Columbus,
and the reader will also find some allusion to it in the
following letter to AMr. Everett, which is in reply to
one froml  that gentleman, enclosing a letter from   tr.
Salmon, the Secretary of State, announcing the king's
permission  for him  to  inspect the  archives of the
Indias, and giving him  an extract from  a critique on
Columbus, which  he was preparing  for the North
American Review.
VOL. II.-15      (22)




338                  LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1828.
[To AM. Alexander H. Everett.]
SEVILLE, August 20, 1828.
MY DEAR SIR:
Yori- letter of the 12th inst. has made me most deeply and
irretrievably your debtor.  I thank you a thousand times for
your persevering kindness in procuring me the royal permission
to inspect the archives of the Indias; and I cannot but feel
gratified by the very handsome manner in which it was communicated to you by the prime minister. I believe the keeper
of the archives had not received the order, but the moment he
read the letter of Mr. Salmon, he put everything at my disposition, and he and his colleagues have shown me the most particular and unremitted attentions whenever I have visited the
archives since. I find nothing relative to Columbus that has
not been published by Navarrete, excepting the documents in
the lawsuit between the heirs of Columbus and the Fiscal,
from which I have nmade some minutes.
You are the best judge of the propriety of presenting a
copy of my work to the king, and I will thank you to do as
you think proper in the business.  I should have felt diffident
of such a thing, as savoring of the vanity of authorship, had
the idea originated with myself, but I have no hesitation when
sanctioned by your advice.  I beg you will also express to Mr.
Salmon how much I feel indebted to him for his repeated courtesies.
The extract from  your critique on Columbus is so exceedingly flattering, that it quite agitates me.  If I thought I could
really merit the extent of your encomiums! yet they are opinions which you are deliberately giving to the press, and I know
you do not commit your judgment lightly or rashly.  "' *
I regret that I shall be deprived for a considerable time of




XET. 45.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   339
the benefit of your general criticism on lmy writings, for I perceive there must be much in your critique that would be extremely valuable to me, in the daily exercise of my pen.  The
high eulogiuni with which it concludes is extremely exhilarating to cheer me forward, but your particular remarks and occasional censures would let me know where to put down my
feet.   e  *  *
Last week I made a journey to Palos, to visit the place
from whence Columbus sailed on his first voyage of discovery.
The journey was rather rough, and I had to put up with the
usual evils of Spanish posadas, but I was extremely gratified.
I had a letter to one of the descendants of the Pinzons, a most
respectable and pleasant old gentleman, seventy-two years of
age, healthful, cheerful, and active.  He entertained me with
great hospitality, made me acquainted with his family connection, and accompanied me to eveiy place memorable in the history of the expedition. The Pinzon family is still numerous
and apparently flourishing, and ever since the time of Columbus has continued in the neighborhood, principally at Moguer,
where the best houses are occupied by members of the family,
and they, for centuries, have filled the posts of trust and dignity
of the little city. I visited Palos, the convent of La Rabida,
the church at which Columbus read the order for the caravals,
the church where he watched and prayed all night after his
return, according to a vow which he had made in a storm at
sea; in short, I sought everything that had any connection
with him and his history.  *      *




340                    LIFE AND LETTERS                         [1828.
CHAPTER XX.
CHANGE OF QUARTERS TO PORT ST. MARY-EXTRACTS FROM LETTER TO PETERTRANSMITS SAMPLE OF CONQUEST OF GRANADA TO LONDON-SENDS OFF CORRECTED EDITIONS OP COLUMBUS TO ENGLAND AND AMERICA-LITERARY PLANS
-LONGING- TO RETURN TO AMERICA-EXTRACTS FROMB DIARY-REMOVAL FROM
THE CERILLO TO THE CARACOL-BUSY ON VASCO NUNEZ-EXTRACT FROM A
LETTER TO PRINCE DOLGOROUKI-LETTER TO EBENEZER IRVING-SENDS MSS.
OF THE CONQUEST OF GRANADA-MURRAY S OFFER TO HIM TO CONDUCT A
MAGAZINE, AND TO WRITE FOR THE QUARTERLY-REPUGNANCE TO THE PROPOSAL-LETTER TO ALEXANDER H. EVERETT, NOTICING MURRAY'S OFFERCONQUEST OF GRANADA AS AN HISTORICAL PRODUCTION-EXTRACT OF LETTER
TO PRINCE DOLGOROUKI ON THE SUBJECT.
FINDING  the heat too  great at their cottage  on
the  sunburnt " tablada" of Seville, Mr. Irving
and Mr. Hall removed to  a little  country  seat about
three quarters of a mile from  the town  of St Mary,
about eight miles from   Cadiz, on  the  opposite  side
of the Bay.
It stands on a hill, [writes WVashington to his brother
Peter, Sept. 2, the day after they had taken possession], commanding an extensive prospect of sea and land, with Cadiz and
its beautiful bay on one side and the distant mountains of
Ronda on another.
The letter continues:




ET. 45.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING                    341
I have just sent off to the steamboat Duke of York, which
sails immediately for England, a part of the MS. of the Conquest of Granada, and shall forward the residue as fast as I can
get it copied-which is in truth but slowly.  I have sent about
half of the first volume; a full and favorable sample of the
work, and have authorized Col. Aspifiwall to dispose of it to
Murray, or to any other leading and respectable bookseller for
2,000 guineas, or as near that sum  as he can get.  I should
have preferred waiting until the whole manuscript was completely copied, that I might have given it a careful revision in
its entire state, but the delays of the copiers are so intolerable
that I was in danger of losing the season.  
I have sent off my corrected editions of Columbus to England and America, but, in consequence of my visit to Palos,
and my inspection of some documents in the archives of the
Indias, I shall have to make a few corrections, which I must
forward by letter.
I shall remain here until the end of September, perhaps a
little longer, and think I may then pay another visit to Seville,
to look into the archives of the Indias.  Mr. Everett procured
me the royal permission to inspect the archives of the Indias,
but it did not arrive until about a week before I left Seville,
when the weather was so hot that it was almost impossible to
do anything.
I shall remain some little time longer in Spain, until I can
get more manuscript in sufficient train to ensure its completion
hereafter without difficulty-the getting up the work on Granada and the correcting of Columbus have hitherto engrossed
me, and may occupy me some little time longer; after which
I will endeavor to arrange other things, so as to be beyond the
reach of chance or change of mind.  I have quiet and leisure




342                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1828.
here to work, and with a little assiduity may make ample provision for all future wants; but when I once leave Spain, I fear
I shall for a long time be unsettled and incapable of working.
I am  haunted by an incessant and increasing desire to visit
America, and if I once get in motion it is a chance if I come to
anchor again until I find myself at New York.  I will endeavor, therefore, to provide against the possibility of such restlessness.
I give a few extracts from his diary, commencing
the third day after he and Mr. Hall had taken possession of Cerillo, the country seat about a mile from
Port St. Mary, before mentioned.
Wednesday, Sept. 3d.-Rewrite  article  about  Martin
Alonzo Pinzon in the illustrations of Columbus.
Saturday 6th.-Finish articles about Pinzon-write one in
a letter to Murray-inclose the others in letters to Murray and
E. I.-evening write introduction to History of Granada.
Monday 8th.-Go to Cadiz-two and a half hours crossing
-write to E. I. —send letter via Gibraltar, containing corrections for Columbus-leave with Mr. Burton [the American
consul] MS. of the first half volume of Granada, to be sent to
E. 1.
Weednesday 10th.-Incapable of working-walk out with
Mr. Hall-latter on horseback  walk to seaside-bathe near
an old tower-in the afternoon walk to town.
Thursday 11th. —Find the persons of Mr. Crowley's house
are coming out to take refuge in the Cerillo, through fear of
the fever-cross to Cadiz to consult with Mr. Burton what
course to take, as we must leave the Cerillo, and the country is




J3T. 45.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 343
alarmed by reports of fever in Gibraltar, and cordons are
drawing in various places.
Friday 12th.-Make preparations to return to Sevillelearn that the steamboats are not permitted to come from
Seville-our retreat in that direction cut off.
Saturday 13th.-Seeking for a house in the country.
iafonday 15th.-Agree to take the Caracol at about $15 a
month, partly furnished-move there this afternoon-[This
little retreat was a short distance from Port St. Mary, and
commanded a fine view of the bay and city of Cadiz —Here
Hall was destined to find his end.]
Satcrday 20th.-For several days past busy myself copying
Conquest of Granada.
-Tednesday 24th.-Read MS. of various things to Hallcannot work-evening write letter to Mlle. Bolviller-give
account of visit to Palos.
Sunday 28th.-Begin MS. of Vasco Nufiez-write but
little.
Mionday 29th. —Write all day at Vasco Nu~iez.
October 2d.-Vasco Nuez all day-write till 1 o'clock at
night-[Vasco NuFiez de Balboa, one of the companions of
Columbus.]
The same day he addresses a letter to Dolgorolkii
giving some interesting particulars respecting Wilkie
and himself, of which I have space only for the following extract:
I have received a long letter from Murray, and a very gratifying one. The first edition of Columbus was nearly exhausted,
and he was waiting for my corrected copy to put a new edition




344                  LIFE AND LETTERS                     [1828.
to the press.  The sale continues excellent and steady, and he
appears to be very well satisfied.  He has purchased from
Wilkie the sketch he made of my likeness, which he means to
have engraved in the best line manner for the new edition.  I
have sent part of the manuscript of a new work to London for
publication; if it meets with ready acceptance from the publishers, I will talk more to you about it.  I never feel very
sanguine about a work I have just finished.  I can think of
nothing but its faults.
Gessler is as happy as a man in love and not married can
be.  He is full of the bustle of furnishing a house to which to
conduct his bride when the Great Autocrat of all the Russias
shall have time to think about the matter and give his consent.
The Pope has already given his holy sanction.  It is a sublime
thing for a man to have to gain the consent of these two great
spiritual and temporal potentates before he can kiss his bride.
It is really, according to the old saying, "moving heaven and
earth " to effect his purposes.
I am staying at a small country seat called the Caracol, just
outside of Port St. Mary's, and commanding a fine view of the
bay and city of Cadiz.  Here I live quite out of the world; my
principal walk is on the terrace roof of the house, and I rarely
receive a visit or pay one, but amuse myself reading and scribbling.
[To Ebenezer Irving.]
PORT ST. MARY'S, Oct. 16, 1828.
MY DEAR BROTHER:
By the ship Florida, Capt. Trip, about to sail from Cadiz
for New York, I send you the greater part (if not all) of the
manuscript of my new  work, The Conquest of Granada.  It
will make about a thousand pages of the Sketch Book size.




MET. 46.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                     345
I wish you to sell the work to Carey, Lea & Carey; that
is to say, sell them the right of publishing an edition of a certain number of copies.  They offered me terms in a letter received some time since, but which I have not at hand.  In
case I published a work like the Sketch Book or Bracebridge
Hall, they offered specific sums for the right of publishing 3,000
or 4,000 copies, or for the copyright.*        *'*  *
Murray writes me word that he intends to publish a popular
edition of Columbus-that is to say, one in a duodecimo form.
He seems to be highly gratified by the success of the work.
I think it probable an edition of the same size would answer in
America.  However, you had better bargain with Carey for
the right of publishing that work also.  It is not worth while
giving yourself trouble and perplexity for the sake of making a
little more profit.  The works will be profitable enough for my
wants.  Let the booksellers find them advantageous works for
their trade.  The last letter I- have received from  Murray is
the best critique I have ever had as to my general reputation
with the public.  He is about to set up a monthly magazine,
free from  any political or party bias, purely literary and scientific.  He has offered me a thousand pounds a year to conduct
it, besides paying me liberally for any articles I might contribute to it.  In fact, the salary and other offers for casual
writing would ensure me at least seven thousand dollars a year,
besides what I might make by works published independently.
I have declined his offer, principally because I will not bind
The American copyright of the Conquest of Granada was sold to
Messrs. Carey & Co., of Philadelphia, by the brother to whom this letter is
addressed, for five years, for $4,750, payable in 2, 4, 8, 12, and 18 months
from the day of publication.
-VoL,. II-15*




346                LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1828.
myself to any undertaking, however lucrative, that would oblige
me to fix my residence out of America. I trust after this you
will believe me sincere in my inclination and intention to return
home. The offer, however, is highly flattering, considering
that Murrray has the best talent of England at his command.
The entry in Mr. Irving's memorandum  book, four
days prior to the date of the foregoing extract, is as
follows:
October 12.-Receive letter from Murray; offers ~1,000
a year to conduct a monthly magazine, and to pay liberally
besides for any original articles I may insert; offers one
hundred guineas an article for contributions for the Quarterly
Review.
The letter just given does not notice this last part
of Murray's proposition, but in a communication to
Peter, which includes an allusion to the entire offer,
he says: " As for the Review itself" [the Quarterly],
" it has always been so hostile to our country, I cannot
draw a pen in its service."
It is a noteworthy fact in this connection, that it
was afterwards made matter of opprobrium  against
him, that he was a frequent contributor to the London
Quarterly, at a time when that periodical was distinguished for its hostility to the United States.  But of
this I may speak hereafter.
The following letter, among other matters of literary interest, also touches upon Murray's offer of 100




AT. 45.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                    347
guineas an  article  for contributions to  the  London
Quarterly.
[To'Mr. Alexander HS. Everett.]
PUERTO STA. MARIA, Oct. 21, 1828.
MY DEAR SIR:
*  *  *  I have had two letters from  Murray lately, in
which he seems disposed to make up for past neglect.  He is
about putting a new edition of Columbus to press, and is eager
for all kinds of graphical illustrations, fac-similes, &c., that can
be procured for love or money. Had he written this some time
since, I could have procured him something of the kind; now
it will be difficult.  He wishes also similar illustrations for a
Life of Cervantes that Mr. Lockhart is writing, and wishes me
to employ any competent person to take fac-similes of letters,
unpublished poems, drawings of Cervantes' house, apartment,
&c., giving me a carte ilacnche as to expense.  Do you know
if anything of the kind is to be had?
Murray has offered me a thousand pounds a year to conduct
a periodical magazine he is about setting up, to be devoted entirely to literature and the arts, without the least mixture of
politics or personality, and to pay me liberally besides for any
articles I may contribute to it.  I have declined, as I do not
wish to engage in any undertaking that would oblige me to fix
fmy residence out of America; and, indeed, I am  unwilling to
shackle myself with any periodical labor.  He also offers me a
hundred guineas an article for contributions to the Quarterly.
This is extremely liberal, but, unfortunately, his review  has
been so hostile to our country, that I cannot think of writing a
line for it. Had it been otherwise, I could hardly have resisted
such a temptation.  Since my tour in the old kingdom  of




348                 LIFE AND LETTERS                       [1828.
Granada, I have finished and transmitted a work for publication on the subject of the Conquest by Ferdinand and Isabella.
I collected materials for it about two years since, having been
struck with the subject while writing the Life of Columbus.
My brother assisted me in my researches, but after I had
roughly thrown it into form, I felt distrust on the subject, and
let it lie.  My tour reassured me, and I took it up resolutely
at Seville, and worked it into regular form.  Col. Aspinwall,
to whom  I remitted the first part some weeks since, appears
highly pleased with it, and has put it in Murray's hands, from
whom I await a reply.  It is in the form of a Chronicle, made
up from all the old Spanish historians I could lay my hands on,
colored and tinted by the imagination so as to have a romantic
air, without destroying the historical basis or the chronological
order of events.  I fancy it is as near the truth as any of the
chronicles from which it is digested, and has the advantage of
containing the striking facts and achievements, true or false, of
them  all.  Of course it will have no pretensions as a grave
historical production, or a work of authority, but I cannot help
thinking it will present a lively picture of the war, and one
somewhat characteristic of the times, so much of the materials
having been drawn from contemporary historians.
I have been residing for some weeks in the country in the
neighborhood of Port St. Mary's, and I had intended to proceed to Gibraltar, but the fever prevented me.  I expect to
leave this before long to return to Seville.  *  *  *
Can you give me any idea how the Presidential election is
like to be determined?  I have had no intelligence on the subject for a long while.  -  *
In  a letter of a later date (Dee. 13), Mr. Irving




JET. 45.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                     349
writes of the Conquest of Granada to Prince Dolgorouki as follows:
The work which I forwarded to England for publication
some time since, is on the subject of the Colquest of Granada
by Ferdinand and Isabella.  It is a kind of Chronicle, made up
from  all the old chronicles and histories, printed or in manuscript, that I could meet with.  I have introduced nothing that
is not founded on historical authority, but I have used a little
freedom of pencil in the coloring, grouping, &c., &c., and have
brought out characters and incidents in stronger relief than
they are to be met with in the old histories.  Notwithstanding
these liberties (which are intended to give it a romantic charm),
I really believe the work will contain a fuller and more claracteristic account of that remarkable war than is to be found elsewhere.




350                     LIFE AND LETTERS                         [1828.
CHAPTER XXI.
TIE AUTHOR RETURNS TO SEVILLE TO MAKE RESEARCHES IN LIBRARIES-HEARS
OF A THREATENED ABRIDGMENT OF COLUMBUS-RESOLVES UPON AN EPITOME
HIMSELF-A RAPID OPERATION-LETTER TO PETER ON THE SUBJECT-LETTER
TO ALEXANDER H. EVERETT RESPECTING SOME POINTS IN THE HISTORY OF
COLUMBUS-HIS IMPRESSION OF THE ABRIDGMENT AS A LITERARY COMPOSITION
-ABRIDGMENT GIVEN GRATUITOUSLY TO MIURRAY-SENDS COPY TO AMERICA
-BARGAIN WITH THE CARVILLS FOR SECOND EDITION OF COLUMBUS AND
THE ABRIDGMENT-RECEIVES TIDINGS OF THE DEATH OF HALL-LETTER TO
A RELATIVE ON THE SUBJECT-PASSAGE RESPECTING HIM FROM A LETTER TO
BREVOORT-ANECDOTE OF INVOCATION-LOCKHART AND COLERIDGE'S OPINIONS
OF CONQUEST OF GRANADA-BARGAIN WITH MURRAY FOR IT-LETTER TO
PETER ON THE SUBJECT-MEDITATES ARTICLE FOR A CHRISTMAS WORK OF
ALLAN CUNNINGHAM-BUSY ON DON RODERICK-CLOSE OF 1828.
N~1  the third  of November, Mr. Irving  carried  out
-  his intention  of returning  to  Seville, " to make
researches in  the library left by Fernando  Columbus,
and  in  the archives of the Indias," leaving  his companion at the " Caracol," expecting soon to follow  him.
A  fortnight later, as appears  by  his diary, Nov. 18,
he received  a letter from  his brother Peter, informing
him   that some  anonymous  person  in  America  was
about to  publish  an abridgment of his Life of Columbus, which, in  his view, would  be extremely injurious




RET. 45.]      OF WASHINGTON IRVING.              351
to both the work and himself: " as," he writes, " he
must of course garble it, and mangle the style by
alterations to avoid the law respecting copyright."
As the history would probably come to an abridgment as a class or school book, Mr. Irving had intended to make one himself, but had delayed, fearing it might prejudice the sale of the larger work, if
issued too soon; but now  that he found  himself
menaced with this interference with his rights and the
produce of his labors, before the extended history had
been six months fiom  the press, he set to work at
once to carry out his purpose, writing immediately
to his brother Ebenezer, to announce a forthcoming
epitome by himself. To this course, he was strongly
urged by his brother Peter, to whom  it appeared
important to his interest, and -the reputation of his
work, that he should prepare an epitome of it to prevent its being garbled and mangled in the manner
threatened.  "' Gibbon," he reminds him, "' abridged
his Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire; Goldsmith abridged his Histories of Rome and Greece,
and the public was thus put in possession of valuable
school books from the pens of those original authors."
Then after one or two suggestions as to the reasons
for the abridgment it might be well to state in the
preface, to prevent the charge of book making, he
adds pleasantly:   By the way, your case is similar
to that of Goldsmith, stated in the preface to a collection of his scattered Essays. You recollect his story




302                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1828.
of the fat voyager, who was to furnish slices of his
own bacon, to support his shipwrecked companions, and
insisted on having the first cut himself."
In his reply, dated Nov. 19, the day succeeding
the receipt of this  unpalatable  news, Washington
writes:
Your information of the intended piracy upon Columbus
annoyed me at first excessively, for I have had so much fa.g
ging already with that work, that the idea of attempting an
abridgment was intolerable, especially as I have so much other
matter to employ my time upon during the short period I can
yet linger in Spain.  Still I cannot endure the idea that a paltry poacher should carry off the fruits of my labors.  I sat
down; therefore, this morning, and have already written about
twenty pages, and now think I shall be able to digest the work
into a very spirited and compact form, that will eventually be
more profitable than the more bulky one, if not a better piece
of literature.
In a subsequent letter to Peter, of November 30,
he writes that he was getting on easily and rapidly,
with the abridgment; convinced that it would make
a most compact, interesting, and entertaining work
in one volume, of a size to be widely and permanently
saleable.  " I think," he adds,' the literary pirate will
eventually prove a benefactor."
A fortnight later, he writes to the same brother:
I have finished the Abridgment, and shall send it off to
America by the brig Francis, which sails from Cadiz for New




XET. 45.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  353
York about the 22d inst.  I have had it copied, that I might
forward a copy to Murray.  It will make about five hundred
pages of the Sketch Book, or four hundred good full pages of
ordinary printing.  I finished it in nineteen days-hard work,
but I think it will be all the better for being written off at a
heat.  I have no doubt that it will prove a work of extensive
and durable sale.  All the passages and scenes of striking interest are given almost entire, and the other parts are compressed with clearness and fluency, and without losing in language, I think they gain in spirit by conciseness.  The vessel
by which it goes to America was originally advertised for the
15th, and to enable me to forward the MSS., man, woman,
nrd child of ny acquaintance here that understood English,
volunteered to assist in copying it, so that I had it copied in
the course of a very few days.
I have had no intelligence fiom Col. Aspinwall of any definite arrangement with Murray for the Conquest of Granada.
From  the tenor of his last letter, however, I feel satisfied he
will get full terms; but I begin to fear the work will not be
published until spring.
The copy of the abridgment for Murray, mentioned
in this letter, he gave to that publisher without charge,
who, it may be stated incidentally, disposed of an edition  of ten  thousand  for his Family  Library.   If
he failed of reimbursement from  the more costly and
extended  history, the deficiency was no doubt made
up by the gratuitous compendium.
The same day he writes to Mr. Everett, in reply
to a letter not in my possession, respecting some points
in the History of Columbus, as follows;
VOL. II.-(23)




354                  LIFE AND LETTERS                   [1828.
[To Mfr. Alexander H. Everett.]
SEVILLE, Dec. 13, 1828.
MY DEAR SIR:
I am  not certain whether I have seen anything of the
work of Count Napione on the question of the birthplace of
Columbus, but I have an idea that I found the amount of his
arguments stated in some other work.  It appears, however,
that after writing two dissertations on the subject, he left it
still undecided. I examined carefully and painfully every work
and document I could find relative to the subject, and it cost
me several days of hard and dry investigation. I came to the
opinion in favor of Genoa from the reasons stated in my illustrations, and from various other trivial reasons that I did not
think it important to state. I conceived it proper to pay this
respect to a question which has been made a subject of such
voluminous controversy among grave men, but having once
settled my opinion, I will take especial care not to unsettle it
again.  I have determined never to enter into disputes upon
any of these contested points. They will continue to be contested until the day of judgment, and there will never be
wanted champions on both sides in Italy to draw their pens and
write volumes in the cause on the least provocation. As to the
portrait at the Lonja, it is not likely to be a portrait of Columbus, but rather of his son Diego. It is too young for the admiral, and it is painted in a ruff, which article of dress was not
worn in Spain until some years after his death, in the reign of
Charles V.  Should Count Massimino send you the work of
Napione, I shall feel much obliged to you if you will let me
have a sight of it.
I have been indefatigably engaged for three weeks past in
preparing an abridgment of Columbus. I found that some liter



ET. 45.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 355
ary pirate in America had advertised an intention to do so,
which would not merely have robbed me of part of the fruits
of my labors, but would have presented my work in a mutilated and garbled state to my countrymen.    -, 
On the 19th of December, Mr. Irving transmits
to his brother Ebenezer, " by Midshipman Farrand,
who was recently in Seville," a copy of the abridgment for publication in America.
I beg you will have it published as quick as possible [he
writes].  Print a good number; let it make a volume of moderate size, and full, though clear and legible page, and let the
price be moderate.  Profit is of secondary importance.  Manage the matter so as to command a circulation, and to drive the
pirate ashore.  *  *-     If you have made a bargain with
any bookseller for the publication of the second edition of Columbus, you may modify the bargain so as to include the publication of this work, which I am confident will ultimately have
a wide and general sale, for it has the marrow of the large
work, and is abridged, I think, both spiritedly and fluently.
The brother to whom this letter is addressed, it may
be here stated, made an arrangement with the Carvills,
of New York, the purchasers of the first edition of
Columbus, by which he disposed to them of the right
of printing the second edition, and the abridgment for
five years, for $6,000.
It was before the transmission of this abridgment,
which was to find an undisputed field, and in the midst




356                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1828.
of the incessant labor of his hurried preparation, that
M[r. Irving received the news of the death of the companion whom  he had left at the " Caracol," and with
whom  he had spent so many months of lonely fellowship on the tablada of Seville, and outside the walls
of Port St. Mary.  The mournful event drew from him
the following letter, which I give from a copy preserved among his papers, and which is endorsed as
having been addressed to Mrs.    -, the cousin and
heir of 3Mr. Hall.
SEVILLE, Dec. 5,1828.
MADAM:
Before this letter reaches you, you will doubtless have
received intelligence of the death of your relation and my
lamented friend, Mr. Hall.  Having lived for several months
together in a state of perfect seclusion in the country, I had
become intimately acquainted with the unassuming worth and
amiableness of his character, and had conceived a regard for
him  which it would have taken years to form in the casual
intercourse of general society.  It has been a matter of deep
affliction to me that I should have been absent at the time of
his death: had I apprehended such an event as being at hand,
nothing should have induced me to part from him.  The residence in the vicinity of Port St. Mary had agreed extremely
well with him.  For three months he had been free from any
spitting of blood, and was altogether so much better than when
I had first known him, that I began to entertain sanguine
hopes of his recovery.  Unfortunately, he mounted his horse
one day after the animal had been for several days without exercise. It was extremely restive, and reared and plunged, and
worried Mr. Hall to such a degree as to render him unwell for




2ET. 45.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  357
two or three days, and to bring on a return of the spitting of
blood.  He recovered from this, and for a fortnight appeared
to be doing very well.  I then took leave of him, and came to
Seville, where he was to rejoin me in the course of a week or
two.  I had looked out for lodgings for him for the winter, and
was daily expecting his arrival, when I was shocked by the
news of his death.  It appears that he had again imprudently
mounted his horse, which at about a mile's distance from the
house became restive, reared, and fell with him, and rolled upon
him. He never mentioned this circumstance, but it was related
after his death to his servant by a Spanish gentleman who was
present and assisted him to remount.  He returned home extremely ill.. Another violent attack of spitting, or rather
vomiting blood, was brought on, which proved fatal.
I had repeatedly entreated him to give up his exercise on
horseback, which I had feared would be' productive of some
unfortunate accident; but he felt confident of his horsemanship, and thought the exercise of service to him.
It has been some consolation to me to feel convinced that,
though I was absent at the time of his death, he was in want
of no assistance; for he had with him an excellent and most
attentive servant, a German of the name of Sebastian Becker,
who had been with us all the summer, and had become much
attached to Mr. Hall, and was much liked by him.  There
were also several English gentlemen in Port St. Mary disposed to
render him every attention, and a German gentleman, Mr. Bohl
(distinguished in the literary world), who during the whole time
of our residence in that neighborhood showed us the most hospitable civilities.  The latter superintended the funeral of Mr.
Hall, which was extremely private, for such is the bigotry of
this country, that a Protestant is regarded with hostility even




358                LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1828.
after death.  He had to be buried in the evening, in a field not
far from the house.  The English gentlemen resident in Port
St. Mary, and the Russian consul of Cadiz, &c., attended his
funeral. He left ~20, all his clothes, horse, &c., &c., to his
servant, in recompense for his kind and devoted attentions to
him during his illness.  His books and papers were to be sent
to England, and I understand Mr. Bohl undertook to forward
them.
I have given you these details, as I presumed his friends
would be anxious to learn something of the particulars of his
death, and because I thought it would be a consolation for them
to know that though he died among strangers, he was not
neglected, but was attended faithfully and kindly to the very
last.' I have the honor to be, madam, very respectfully, your
obedient servant,
WASHINGTON IRVING.
In alluding to the death of this amiable and interesting companion in a letter to Brevoort, of December 20, fifteen days after the date of the letter just
given, Mr. Irving writes:
He was intelligent, well bred, and accomplished.  His malt
ady confined him almost entirely to the house.  Sometimes he
rode out a little, and I accompanied him, either on horseback or
on foot, but most of our time was passed at home, I writing,
he drawing and studying Persian and Arabic.  -*  *  -'  I
cannot tell you, my dear Brevoort, how mournful an event
this has been to me. It is a long while since I have lived
in such domestic intimacy with any one but my brother. I
first met with this young gentleman in the house in Seville




JET. 45.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   359
where I am now boarding, and was insensibly interested in his
precarious situation, and won by the amiableness and correctness of his manner.  I could not have thought that a mere
stranger in so short a space of time could have taken such a
hold upon my feelings.
It was the spirit of this young Englishman that
the author invoked, and as the anecdote has already
found its way into print, I will give it in the words in
which I had it from his own lips:
"Hall," said Mr. Irving, " was rather sceptical, and prone to
speculate dubiously about the reality of a future life and the
possibility of spectral visitation.  In one of these moods, during a talk about ghosts, he turned suddenly towards me, and
asked me somewhat abruptly whether I would be willing to
receive a visit from him after death, if he should go before me,
as he was so likely to do?   "'Why, Hall," I replied, "you
are such a good fellow, and we have lived so amicably together,
I don't know why I should fear to welcome your apparition, if
you are able to come."  "Nay," said Hall, "I am serious, and
I wish you to say you will consent, if the thing is practicable."
"Well, then," said I, "I am serious too, and I will."  "Then,"
said Hall, "it is a compact; and, Irving, if I can solve the
mystery for you, I engage to do it."
After his death, the horse of Iall was brought to
him  at Seville, and one evening he rode him  to their
old retreat, at Casa Cera, near that city.  Here, solemnized by the scene and its associations, and recalling




360                LIFE AND LETTERS                 [1828.
their strange compact, he breathed an appeal for the
promised presence of his departed friend.  But, said
he, he did not come, and though I have made similar invocations before and since, they were never answered;
adding half playfully, half mournfully: " the ghosts
have never been kind to me.'
It would seem  from  a letter of Hall, addressed to
Mr. Irving at Seville, only a week before his death,
that their residence at the Caracol had not been without its romance.  "G Sebastian," he writes, "had got
hold of a story of several robbers secreted in a cave, in
the bank surrounding the Caracol.  He has seen several crawl in and out on their hands and klnees of the
holes in the bank. The Capitaz says lie fears to inform  against them, lest they should have money to
release them  from  prison, and then we should all be
assassinated.  We shall have thieves in the water jars
next."
It is a little singular, also, that their residence at
Casa de Cera, on the tablada of Seville, was proved
to have been a sort of robber rendezvous, and the
keeper and his wife, before Mr. Irving left Spain,
were arrested for giving harbor to robbers, who were
traced to their cottage.
Decenmber 20th.-Mr. Irving writes to his brother
Ebenezer:
I have just received a letter from Col. Aspinwall.  He had
received the last portion of my Conquest of Granada, but by




,ET. 45.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   361
some accident which I cannot comprehend, chapters 34 and 35
are wanting.  This will check the publication until I can supply them.  Unluckily, I have no copy by me, nor anything
but my rough draft of the work, and cannot for the life of me
conceive what those chapters treat of, otherwise I could supply their place.  I shall endeavor to devise some mode of getting out of the dilemma, but at all events, I wish you to have
those chapters copied immediately, and forwarded by the first
packet to Col. Thomas Aspinwall, American Consul, London.
This is a most unlucky circumstance, as Murray seemed disposed to make a bargain out-and-out for the work.  His
"Elbow Critic " [Lockhart, Sir Walter Scott's son-in-law] had
read a considerable portion of the MS., and pronounced it a
first rate work.
Coleridge also had read it, Aspinwall wrote him, and pronounced it " a chef d'oeuvre of its kind."
[FROM THE DIARY.]
December 21.-Unsettled all day, thinking of sailing for
England to supply the loss of the MS. of Conquest of Granada.
Mlonday 22.-Search all my papers this morning.  By the
merest chance find a memorandum in lead-pencil stating the
contents of the two missing chapters.  Draft one from  my
notes.
Wednesday 24.-Conclude chapters missing.  Send letters
to Col. Aspinwall, with chapters.
It turned out that the two missing chapters had
been  sent in  duplicate by  his own  mistake to  his
brother Ebenezer.
VoL. I. — 16




362                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1828.
On the 2Tth of December, Mr. Irving received a
letter from Col. Aspinwall, informing him that he had
made an arrangement with Murray, for the purchase
of the Chronicles of Granada: 2,000 guineas, at long
dates.  "I have concluded everything with Mr. Murray," writes that gentleman, Dec. 12.  " le gives you
your own price, but the notes are to be at eight, twelve,
sixteen, twenty and twenty-four months, fiom January
10, 1829; the last note for ~500, and all the rest for
~400 each. The assignment is to be exactly like the last
in terms, so that the property in the copyright will
remain with you till the notes are paid."
In noticing this arrangement in a letter to Peter,
of December 27, Washington writes:
You see, therefore, that the colonel has gone for the whole,
and got me the outside price of 2,000 guineas.  As to the
length of the dates it is a matter of minor importance; between the old funds lying in the hands of the colonel and what
I have in the hands of myv banker at Madrid, I shall be able to
get on until within reach of the first instalment, and shall probably have other funds arising, as I slall have to comply with the
earnest request of an old literary friend, Allan Cunningham, to
furnish him with an article for a Christmas work, to be illustrated by Newton, Leslie, Wilkie, &c. He offers me for a
short sketch and tale, or for either, any sum I may ask, from ~50
to ~100.  His object is, of course, to get my name in the list
of his contributors.  Murray also is very anxious for me to fur.
nish him with a small popular volume.




AET. 45.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  363
I close the history of this year of the author's life
with the following inemoranda fiom  his diary, beginning on the clay succeeding the date of the foregoing
extract.
December 28th. —Write a little at Don Roderick-evening
at home.
29th.- Write a little at Don Roderick-could not work
freely-went to Clerigo to purchase books.
30th.-Incapable of working-change my room-evening
at the opera-Crocciato-introduced to the Marchioness of
Arco Hermoso, daughter of Mr. Bohl.
WTednesday 31st.-Call this morning with Mr. and Mrs.
Hipkins on the Marchioness of Arco Hermoso-make a long
visit.  The Marchioness relates many village anecdotes of the
village of Dos Hermanos-return home and make a note of
two of them-evening at home.
Thus ends the year-tranquilly.-It has been one of much
literary application, and, generally speaking, one of the most
tranquil in spirit of my whole life.  The literary success of the
History of Columbus has been greater than I anticipated, and
gives me hopes that I have executed something which may have
greater duration than I anticipate for my wiorks of mere imagination. I look forward without any very sanguine anticipations,
but without the gloom that has sometimes oppressed me.  The
only future event from which I promise myself any extraordinary gratification is the return to my native country, which, I
trust, will now soon take place.




3634                   LIFE AND LETTERS                         [1829.
CHAPTER XXII.
STILL AT SEVILLE-LITERARY PLANS AND PURSUITS-LETTER TO PETER-LETTER
TO PRINCE DOLGOROUKI-RECEIVES DIPLOMA OF THE ROYAL ACADEMY OF
HISTORY-LETTER TO PETER-THE BOLIVAR SHARES, AND WHAT BECAME OF
THEM-LETTER TO ALEXANDER H. EVERETT-THE PRESIDENTIAL ELECTIONHIS IMPRESSIONS OF ANDREW JACKSON-REASON FOR ADOPTING A NOM DE
GUERRE FOR THE CONQUEST OF GRANADA-EXTRACTS FROM DIARY-LETTER
TO PETER-LONGING DESIRE TO RETURN TO AMERICA-UNPUBLISHED CHRONICLES-LETTERS TO PETER-PUBLICATION OF CHRONICLES OF GRANADALETTER TO ALEXANDER II. EVERETT-LETTER TO PETER-ABOUT TO LEAVE
SEVILLE FOR GRANADA.
rT   HE  period  of Mr. Irving's sojourning  at Seville,
where he had  been  since the third  of November, was continued  through  the  months of January,
February, March  and  April;  a visit to  the Barbary
States which  he had meditated in  the interim, having
failed  of its  accomplishment.   In  pursuance  of the
purpose which  I keep  steadily in view, to make  the
author his own biographer, I intermingle some passages
from his letters and diary, which will illustrate in his
own  words  his  life  and  literary  plans and  pursuits
during these four months.




AT. 45.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   365
[To Peter Irving, at Icavre.]
SEVILLE, Jan. 3, 1829.
MY DEAR BROTIIER:
I shall endeavor to get up the chronicle of the invasion as
soon as possible.  The fag at the abridgment has rather thrown
me out of the writing mood for a little while, but the ft is reviving. *  *  *
In my last I mentioned my having received a letter from
Allen Cunningham, begging me to furnish him with a short
sketch and tale, or either one, for a yearly miscellany to be
published next autumn, similar to the German almanacs.  I
have not yet replied, for I fear to crowd myself with work.
Yet I remember Cunningham  for a worthy, pleasant, clever
man.  He is a friend of Wilkie's, and his miscellany is to be
illustrated by engravings from  Wilkie, Newton &  Leslie.  I
shall endeavor to prepare something for him."  I feel anxious
to make the most of my present sunshine, but the very anxiety
agitates me, and I feel at times a little perplexed what to take
hold of.
[DIARY.]
January 3d. —Write part of story of Enchanted Soldier of
the Alhambra.
Telednesday 7th.-Finished in a lame way the story of
Enchanted Soldier.
Saturday   0th. —Write a little at the tales of the Alhambra
-write to Prince Dolgorouki and to Don Diego Clemencia.
SEVILLE, Jan. 10, 1829.
MY DEAR DOLGOROUKI
I am very greatly obliged to you for your attention in forwarding me the diploma of the Royal Academy of History,
* He sent Cunningham " The Widow's Ordeal."




366                   LIFE AND LETTERS                     [1829.
and will thank you to remit the enclosed reply to Don Diego
Clemencia, the Secretary.  e  *   I feel very sensibly the
compliment which the Royal Academy has paid me in making
me a member, and shouldc like to know  to what member's
proposition I am indebted for the measure.'
I fear my chronicle of the Conquest of Granada will not
answer the high anticipations you appear to entertain of it.  I
have been hazarding a kind of experiment in literature, and the
success is in some degree a matter of chance.  The Conquest
of Granada has hitherto been a fertile theme for tales of
romance and chivalry; in the account I have given of it, there
is nothing of love or gallantry, and the chivalry is the chivalry
of actual life, as it existed at the time, exhibited in rugged and
daring enterprises and rough, hard fighting.  I have depicted
the war as I found it in the old chronicles, a stern, iron conflict,
more marked by bigotry than courtesy, and by wild and daring
exploits of fierce soldiery, than the gallant contests of courteous
cavaliers.  However, the work will soon be published, and
then you will be able to judge of its merits; but do not indulge
in high expectations nor form any romantic idea of its nature.
[To Peter lrving.]
SEVILLE, Feb. 7, 1829.
I am sorry I cannot give a good account of myself for some
weeks past. I have done little or nothing. I believe I overworked myself in preparing the Abridgment, a great part of
which I had also to copy in a hurry to get it ready for a ship
about sailing. For some time after I was quite out of order,
and was threatened with a return of the malady that once
afflicted me in consequence of a similar fit of vivid excitement
* The proposition came from Navarrete.




.rT. 45.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                    367
and application.  Spots appeared on my skin in various places,
and I thought I should have had to take baths; but fortunately
all have passed away, and I am  in good health.  I cannot,
however, get myself fairly  and warmly at work.  I have
sketched two or three light tales, and have written a few of the
early chapters of Don Roderick, but feebly and unsatisfactorily.
I shall soon, however, get in train again.  The mind ebbs and
flows in these matters like the tide.    *  *'
I wish a thousand times you could be here to pass the
winter with me.  This climate, throughout the greater part of
the year, would exactly suit you.  There is almost perpetual
sunshine.  For the last five weeks I have had fire in my room,
but there is very little occasion for it.  We make occasional
parties into the country'  chiefly to St. Juan de Alfarache, a
convent situated on the site of a famous old Moorish castle,
about two miles from Seville.  It is on the. brow of a hill; commandingl   a beautiful view  of the city, the windings of the
Guadalquivir and the distant mountains of Ronda, &c.  Here
we dined on the grass in the open air on the third of January.
The country looks as fresh and green, and the air is as soft and
genial as in the month of May in other countries.  On last
Sunday we had a little junketing party at a country seat about
three miles from  this, and I cannot tell you how delicious it
was to ramble about the fields and gardens.  In fact, you have
in this country for eight months of the year the delightful temperature of spring; excepting that the sun at midday is apt to
be too powerful even in the winter.  *    *
I had letters lately from     -. I am sorry to find he has
paid two more dividends on my shares of 15s. each, which
makes the cost of the shares amount to ~30 each.  He says
he has written to you fully on the subject.  Do give it a




36                  LIFE AND LETTERS                   [1899.
thought, and decide for me.  I am  content to lose all that I
have paid, so that I can get completely exonerated.  These
demands always produce an indignation and irritation of spirit,
that no profit can compensate for.  *  *  ~
This last allusion refers to his unfortunate investment in the Bolivar mines, made at Paris in 1825,
and which had ever since remained without productive
value, while his resources were tasked  to meet the
recurring  demands  for new  assessments.   lie subsequently preferred  to forfeit the shares rather than
submit to further exactions of the kind, sinking in
this adventure, and the " shipments' before glanced at,
more than  the entire profits of the English edition
of the Life and Voyages of Columbus.
The following is in reply to a letter of Mr. Everett,
received  on the 10th, giving him  the result of the
Presidential election, in which  Andrew  Jackson  received 178 votes; John Quincy Adams 83.
[To 1Mr. Alexander II. Everett.]
SEVILLE, Feb. 14,1829.
MY DEAR SIR:
Your statement of the relative number of votes for General
Jackson and Mr. Adams' quite surprises me.  It shows how
fallacious are all calculations upon the humor of the people,
since many of our electioneering astrologers were confident in
their predictions that Mr. Adams would be reelected.  I was
rather sorry when Mr. Adams was first raised to the presidency, but I am much more so at his being displaced; for he
has made a far better president than I expected, and I am




JET. 45.1         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                    369
loth to see a man superseded who has filled his station worthily.
These frequent changes in our administration are prejudicial to
the country; we ought to be wary of using our power of
changing our Chief Magistrate when the welfare of the country
does not require it.  In the present election there las, doubtless, been much honest, warm, grateful feeling toward Jackson,
but I fear much pique, passion, and caprice as it respects Mr.
Adams.
Since the old general was to be the man, however, I am
well pleased upon the whole, that lie has a great majority, as it
will, for the reasons you mention, produce a political calm in
the country, and lull those angry passions which have been
exasperated during Mr. Adams' administration, by the close
contest of nearly balanced parties.  As to the old general, with
all his hickory characteristics, I suspect he has good stuff in
him, and will make a sagacious, independent, and high-spirited
president; and I doubt his making so high-handed a one as
many imagine.  *   As I give the old fellow credit for
some degree of rough chivalry, I have no idea that he will play
a petty, persecuting game with his opponents, when their opposition las been fair and honorable.  I do not apprehend, therefore, many changes of office from  mere political pique, and I
believe that a person like yourself, who has filled his office
faithfully, abl,  a and respectably, will never be molested.  ^
The London newspaper has blundered withi respect to the
title of mv new work  It is called "A Clronicle of the Conquest of Granada," by  Fray  Antonio  Agapida.  I  have
adopted a norm ce guerre, as allowing me a freer scope in touching up and coloring the subject from my imagination.
I received recently a diploma as corresponding member of
VTOLT. II. 16      (24)




370                   LIFE AND LETTERS                     [1829.
the Royal Academy of History of Madrid; for wlich, I understand, I am indebted to the friendly services of Mr. Navarrete.
I am quite anxious to see this third volume of voyages, which,
I am told, is only waiting for a preface to be published.
I am glad to hear Don Jorge is likely to get his little work
through the press.  A Mr. Hackley, whlo arrived here not long
since from Madrid, and who knows Dol Jorge, gave me a most
amusing account of his perplexities with the censor, who saw
libel and treason against the king in the Spanish version of
Rip Van Winkle.         e,
P. S. I can say nothing positive as to a return to Madrid,
but I do not think it probable. I.regret that I did not set off
some weeks sooner for the capital, for I have been out of order,
and the journey would have done me good; but I am now
getting in train again, and, having my books' and papers about
me, I do not like to unsettle myself for the present.  I have
been disappointed in my hopes of being able to make researches
in the archives of the Indias.  I find the permission was confined to the papers relating to Columbus, and the keeper of the
archives, though extremely civil and friendly, is rigorous in
obeying the very letter of his instructions. I found it impossible, therefore, to obtain an inspection of other papers relative
to the early discoveries, and have not thought it worth while
to make further application.
[FROM THE DIARY.]
February 14th.-Receive letter from  Peter, inclosing copy
of letter from  Carey, of Philadelphia, mlentioning his having
purchased copy of Granada.
Tuesclay, -1 7th.-This evening arrived thirteen British officers




ET. 45.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  371
-nine of them  of the Frigate Dartmouth-among them  are
Lieutenant Washington, &c.
Wednesday, 18th.-Visit cathedral with officers-dinner in
memory of General "Washington.
February 22d.-Saw  the officers off in the steamboatwrote a little at Don Roderick.
Miarch 1 st.-Wrote all the morning at Don Roderick-3Write to Peter, informing him  of my thoughts of going to
America.
[To Peter Irving.]
SEVILLE, March 3, 1829.
MY DEAR BROTHER:
"*  *      I have had a partial return of the writing mood,
and have been laboring at Don Roderick; but I shall have to
go over and work up all that I have done, for it is not executed
to my mind.  Still it is a considerable advance in the execution
of the work.  I trust in a few days to finish the narrative of
the invasion and perdition of Spain.  You will probably be
disappointed in the manner in which the work will be executed.  I throw out a great deal, and reduce the whole to a
chronicle or legend that will take up perhaps but part of a
volume.  I have many reasons for so doing that I cannot detail in a letter.  The original plan would be too much like a
transcript of the old chronicle by the Moor Rasis, and would
probably be stigmatized as such; at the same time the material
of the chronicle was too coldly extravagant and flimsy to please
as romance, and could possess no merit as history. It also has
been so much harped upon by Scott and Southey as not to
possess novelty with literary persons.  A  large work, therefore, resting upon such materials, would run a risk of being a
literary failure.  The story condensed into a short chronicle or




372                  LIFE AND LETTERS                      [1829.
legend, containing the most striking scenes at full length and
with full effect, appears to me more likely to be successful, and
may be supported by succeeding chronicles of Don Peiayo, &c.,
so that the entire two volumes will contain a variety, part of
which will be entirely new to the British public.  However, I
shall judge better of this as I proceed.  In all my writings I
have to be governed by a certain tact which I cannot well explain.  I feel how a thing ought to be done and how I can
render it effective, and if I go counter to this feeling I am
likely to come off lamely; yet I cannot reduce this feeling to
any rule or maxim  by which I can make my plan comprehended in its essential points by others.  As to this chronicle
of Don Roderick, it ]has always been a flimsy kind of story that
I could not grasp firmly.  It seemed to want substance in my
hand.  I think I now feel it, and have brought it to a sound,
substantial form, which I can expand and ornament and render
attractive.  *  *  *
Lent has just begun, and every amusement here is at an
end.  I shall remain in Seville to see Holy Week in April,
which is celebrated here with great splendor.  I shall then
take my departure, and hope that by, that time I shall have
some manuscript in such forwardness as to be able to finish a
work while moving from place to place, so as to have it out in
the course of the summer.  The loss of this winter has put me
sadly behind my calculations.  I have a craving desire to return to America, which has been increasing on me for the
two years past, until now it incessantly haunts my mind and
occupies all my dreams.  I have said nothing positively on the
subject in my letters to our friends in America, nor shall I say
anything, for so many circumstances and considerations hlave
arisen to prolong my stay in Europe from  year to year, that I




JET. 45.]       OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 373
do not like to state plans which may be frustrated.  I am now
resolved to go as soon as I can arrange my papers, so as to have
materials to work upon for some few months without the necessity of much invention or planning. I know that otherwise,
on returning home, I shall be so much distracted by society,
&c., that I shall not be able to carry on any literary labor that
requires leisure and calm thinking.
I may never have a more favorable time to return home
than the present year, when I shall have one work just
launched and another launching, and materials in hand for easy
arrangement.  If I defer it, God knows what may arise to prevent me.
"The work just launched," was the Conquest of
Granada, and the other A" launching," was the Voyages
of the Companions of Columbus, now  in readiness.
The materials on hand for easy arrangement 9 were
a Sketch of the Life of  lIahomet, prepared while at
UMadrid, and intended as introductory to other writings, which he had in contemplation connected with
the Moorish  domination in  Spain; Legends of the
Conquest of Spain; Chronicles of Don Pelayo, and
the successors of Don Pelayo; Chronicles of the Ommiades (or the house of Omeya, one of the two lines
descended  from  Mahomet), Chronicle of Don  Fernando Gonzalez, Count of Castile; Don Garcia Fernandez (his successor); the Seven Sons of Lara; and
Chronicle of Fernando el Santo  (the Conqueror of
Seville); all of which, with the exception of Mahomet
and the Legends, remained for a, long time in a crude




314                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1829.
state in his portfolio, and were afterwards worked
upon, though he never gave them to the press, except
some fragments in the Knickerbocker Magazine.  We
shall hereafter find, that as he was diverted from
Columbus to engage upon the Conquest of Granada,
so he was led aside awhile from his Life of Washington
to take hold of these still unpublished chronicles
[FROM THE DIARY.]
iMalrch 5th, 6thi, 7th.-Don Roderick.  8th.-Write all
morning at Pelayo.  9th.-Visit the cathedral library, and
make notes.  10th. —Write at Pelayo-receive a letter from
P. 1. enclosing one from E. I., and an agreement with Carey
& Co.
[To Peter Irving,.Esq.]
SEVILLE, March 11, 1829.
MY DEAR BROTHER:
I have yours dated February 24, inclosing the articles of
agreement of Carey, Lea., & Carey.  I am right glad to have
such spirited, off-hand booksellers to deal with in America as
these gentlemen.  *  *' 
I sent a copy of the abridgment of Columbus to Murray by
a vessel which sailed from  this port some time since.  He
probably has it before this time.
I have a long letter from Wilkie, dated 30th January. He
said he had met with Price * a few days before at a jovial dinner at Liston's; he enquired much after you and me.  His
theatre, WTilkie says, is now the favorite one, and even excels
Covent Garden in pantomime; there is a moving picture in one
* Stephen Price, formerly manager of the Park Theatre, New York.




JET. 46.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   375
of the pieces, painted by Stanfield, and said to be one of the
finest works of art ever seen in a theatre. Young Braham and
Liston form  the strength of Drury Lane.  Liston has twenty
guineas a night.  Wilkie had met Kenney at Mr. Samuel
Rogers'.  Kenney wears well.  He had met with Leslie and
Phillips (the portrait painter) and their whole families, men,
women, and children, at Petworth, the seat of Lord Egremont.
Such is the princely style in which that nobleman entertains.
Leslie is a rising man, both in the esteem of his friends and the
favor of the public.  Newton has lately been elected associate
of the Royal Academy by a great majority.  He is painting a
picture of Gil Bias receiving in the posada the first visit of the
Queen of the Philippine Islands.  Newton, Wilkie says, is
more sought after, for his society, by the great people than any
one in the profession. The very favorable notice of Columbus
that appeared in the Literary Gazette, the first notice that was
published of the work, was written, Wilkie says, by Lockhart.
Sir Walter Scott has applied to Wilkie, Leslie, and Newton,
for illustrations for a complete and new edition of the Waverley
novels.
[To Peter Irving, Rouen.]
SEVILLE, April 10, 1s29.
MY DEAR BROTHER
I have this day received a copy of the Conquest of Granada, sent to me via Gibraltar.  Murray informs me that he
keeps back the publication of it in England until the Catholic
question is settled, as the public can read, talk, and think of
nothing else.  He says he has begun to print Moore's Life of
Lord Byron; he adds, " he has executed his task in the most
masterly manner, and it will be, I feel confident, one of the
most interesting pieces of biography that ever was written."  I




g31^~ aLIFE AND LETTERS                              [1829.
heartily rejoice to hear this; for Moore's Life of Sheridan did
not seem to give sufficient satisfaction.  I know lie feels this
subject ten times as much as he did the other.  His Life of
Sheridan was always a job that went against the grain with
him.  Murray concludes his letter with a painful piece of intelligence concerning Moore, that he was " in daily apprehension
of losing his only daughter.'  Let me know if you hear anything on the subject.  She was a lovely little girl, and her
death would be a terrible blow to both her parents.
Murray has published the Chronicle in a beautiful style.
I observe lie has altered the title page.  I had put "A Chronicle of the Conquest of Granada by Fray Antonio Agapida."
Hie has inserted my name; I presume to make the work more
immediately salable, but it is an unwarrantable liberty, and
makes me gravely, in my own name, tell many round untruths.
I here openly make myself responsible as an author for the existence of the manuscript of Agapida, &c., &c.  Literary mystifications are excusable when given anonymously or under
feigned names, but are impudent deceptions when sanctioned
by an author's real name.
I have just looked into the work.  It reads smoothly, and
I trust will have a good success among thle literary; but I suspeet it will be heavy in the hands of mere readers for amusement.  The former kind of success is most desirable and most
advantageous in the long run.  Should I find the Chronicle
takes, I will be able to follow it up soon with the Invasion,
The Chronicle, however, though regarded by Coleridge and other critical authorities as a " masterpiece
of romantic narrative," and pronounced by our own




lET. 46.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   377
noble poet, William  Cullen Brvant, " one of the most
delightful of his works," was not destined to achieve
a sufficient popularity to encourage him to persevere
in the same line.
Two days after the date of this letter to Peter,
Prince Dolgorouki arrived in the diligence from Madrid,
to whom  Mr. Irving had written a fortnight before,.in looking forward to his speedy coming:
I am quite overjoyed at the prospect of soon meeting with
you.  I shall certainly remain in Seville until you come, and
shall feel a new delight in revisiting with you all the lions of
this place.  I feel so attached to Spain, that the thoughts of
soon leaving it are extremely painful to me; and it will be
gratifying to me to take a farewell view of some of its finest
scenes in company with one who knows how to appreciate this
noble country and noble people.
Mir. Everett sent by him, as Mr. Irving had requested in a previous letter, the Edinburgh Review,
containing Jeffrey's critique on Columbus, and also, it
would seem  by the epistle which follows, the January
number of the North American, containing the Minister's own review of the work.
[To Alexander HI. Everett.]
SEVIILE, April 15,1829.
MY DEAR SIR:
Prince Dolgorouki has delivered me your letter and the two
reviews you have had the goodness to send me. I have read
with the greatest interest and satisfactioln your am]ple, masterly,




378                  LIFE AND LETTERS                     [1829.
and beautiful review of my writings.  I do not know how you
can imagine that there are any passages to which I could take
objection.  You have, indeed, in giving a discriminating piece
of criticism, pointed out certain errors into which I have run,
and deficiencies which-are incident to my nature  it was your
duty to do so.  I am  conscious of the truth of your remarks,
and in making theIn you enhance the value and the authority
of the exuberant encomiums you have passed upon me.  A
mere friendly eulogium  would have had no weight with the
public, and would have been very unsatisfactory to myself.
Having spoken your mind fieely about my defects, I feel the
more confidence in your praises, and after making all due allowance for the effects of personal intimacy and kindness, I assure
you it is deeply gratifying to receive such praise from  such
hands.
x1 *x- I feel certain that there must be many incorrectnesses in my writings, for though I labor sometimes carefully
at parts, I often write very rapidly; and what I wite with
facility and spirit I am  not apt to retouch with any great solicitude.  I labor more to bring up careless and feeble parts to
a tone and keeping with the rest, than nicely to finish what
appears to me already good.  Columbus had more slovenliness
of style in one stage of its preparation than any work I ever
wrote; for I was so anxious about the verity of the narrative,
and had to patch it together from  so many different materials,
that I had no time to think of the language.  It was not until
I had completely finished it as to facts, that I went over the
whole of it and endeavored to bring up the style.
I give a few of the entries in his diary between the
date of the foregoing letter and that which is to follow:




JET. 46.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                379
April 16th.-Miserere in the cathedral in the eveningwalked in the cathedral with Dolgorouki until half-past eleven.
17th. — ent with Prince Dolgorouki to the church of St.
Thomas, to see the painting by Zurbaran-wrote letter to
Madame D'Oubril-walked about Seville by moonlight with
Dolgorouki.
18th.-Rending of the veil at the cathedral.
22d.-Sat for likeness to Escacena-write letters to the
little D'Oubrils.
This last employment, in one naturally disinclined
to letter writing, illustrates his fondness for children,
of which, and their fondness for him, there are many
indications in the letters addressed to him:
"The children  desire to be remembered to the
chocolate merchant, and to assure you that they have
not forgotten Hempen House, nor the German princess
with the long nose;"  writes Mr. Thomas Aspinwall
to him at one time, and again at another; " iadarme
and all the young fry desire their kindest remembrance.  They have picked out a tree for you to lie
under, and tell them  stories when you come to Highgate next summer."
In the following letter we find Mr. Irving about to
take another look at Granada.  "  I had intended," he
writes to Mr. Everett,' to visit the African coast;
merely Tangiers and Tetuan, for a few days to get a
peep at the turbaned Infidels in their own towns, but
I fear I shall have to abandon the intention, as I find
the Austrians are blockading Tangiers.'  IHe was the




380                  LIFE AND LETTERS                   L1829.
more desirous to visit Granada a second time, as he
would now see it in all the beauty of its vegetation,
and when he was there before, the spring was not far
enough advanced " to leave a full idea of the charms
of the scenery.'
[To Peter Irving, Rouen.]
SEVILLE, April 29,1829.
MY DEAR BROTIER:
E  The day after to-morrow I set off on horseback
with Prince Dolgorouki for Granada, where I mean to indulge
myself with a luxurious life among the groves and fountains
of the Alhambra. I shall be there in the most splendid season,
with moonlight nights.  If I have a writing vein there, of
which I am in hopes, I shall remain there for a month or six
weeks. I beg you, therefore, to continue to write to me to the
care of Don Miguel Walsh.
I have just received Navarrete's third volume, and will
look over it to see what corrections it will be necessary for me
to make in my History of Columbus.
I write in extreme haste.  Let me hear from  you often.
You have the true art of letter writing, for your letters always
present the bright side of things, and put me in good humor
and good spirits.
I will write to you at more length from  Granada.  The
prince and myself travel alone. He came down here in company with the French ambassadress and a large party, but deserted them all to remain with me.  He is of an amiable temper and a most affectionate disposition. * a *
Your affectionate brother,
WAASHINGTON IRVING.




^T. 46.]            OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                       381
CHAPTER XXIII.
SOJOU RN   IN   THE   A LHAMBRA.
THE GOVERNOR'S QUARTERS-AN UNEXPECTED VISITOR-PASSAGES OF LETTERSTHE CONQUEST OF GRANADA PUBLISHED IN LONDON-FINISHES THE LEGENDS
OF THE CONQUEST OF SPAIN-LETTERS TO PETER ON THE SUBJECT-LETTER
TO DOLGOROUKI-DUKE DE GOR-EXTRACTS FROM LETTERS TO EBENEZER
AND PETER-HEARS OF HIS APPOINTMENT AS SECRETARY OF LEGATION TO
LONDON-LETTER THEREUPON TO MR. WETHERELL AT SEVILLE-INDIFFERENCE TO OFFICIAL HONOR-LETTER TO LOUIS MCLANE-TO MR. EVERETT —
HIS PLAN OF RETURN BROKEN UP-LETTER TO PETER-REPLY TO THE OBJECTION THAT THE APPOINTMENT WAS BELOW HIS TALENTS AND POSITIONA TRAVELLING COMPANION TURNS UP, WITH WHOM HE PROPOSES TO LEAVE
GRANADA.
[R. IRVING  left Seville on  the first of May, in
company  with  the  Prince   Dolgorouki, and
after a pleasant journey of five days on horseback,
of which he has given us some particulars in the Tales
of the Alhambra, arrived  at Granada.   On the 12th
of May, he left the Posada de la Espada, in which he
had lodged  on his arrival, and took  up  his residence
in the Governor's quarters in the Alhambra, who had
given  him  permission  on  the day previous to  occupy
his vacant apartments in that august old pile.
His letters speak with delight of this romantic
residence




382                LIFE AND LETTERS                   [1829.
You see [he writes to Peter, May 13] I date my letter
from the old Moorish palace itself; for yesterday, by permission
of the Governor of the Alhambra, the Prince and myself moved
into one of its vacant apartments.  You may easily imagine
how delightfully we are lodged with the whole pile at our command, to ramble over its halls and courts at all hours of day
and night without control. The part we inhabit is intended
for the Governor's quarters, but he prefers at present residing
down in the city.   e have an excellent old dame and her goodhumored, bright-eyed niece, who have charge of the Alhambra,
who arrange our rooms, meals, &c., with the assistance of a tall
servant boy; and thus we live quietly, snugly, and without
any restraint, elevated above tle world and its troubles.  I
question if ever poor Chico el Zogoyby was as comfortable in
his palace.
On the very evening of his occupation, he was
surprised by a visit from  his nephew, Edgar Irving,
son of his brother Ebenezer, a midshipman in the navy,
who was returning home from a cruise in the Mediterranean, when he heard of his being there, and left his
ship at Gibraltar to pay him  a visit.  His sudden appearance in this romantic abode, was, writes his uncle,
" as if he had dropt from the clouds, or been conveyed
by some enchantment of the palace."  On the morning
of the 16th, the prince set off to continue his tour
through Andalusia, and the following day his nephew
took his departure for Andujar, Cordova, Seville, and
so back to Gibraltar, leaving him the solitary tenant
of the Alhambra.




iET. 46.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  383
Though I felt rather lonely and doleful after your departure [he writes to his nephew at Seville], yet I considered it
fortunate that you departed when you did,'for you would have
found it excessively dismal here; the weather being wet and
gloomy, and so cold that for a day or two I had to remain the
whole of the time wrapped in my cloak.  For my own part, I
managed to occupy myself with my pen and papers, but I apprehend you would have found it a cheerless life to stroll about
the'cold marble halls even of a palace.  The return of fine
weather and sunshine has again restored all the charms of the
Alhambra.  I take my breakfast in the saloon of the ambassadors or the court of the Lions; and in the evening, when I
throw  by my pen, I wander about the old palace until quite
late, with nothing but bats and owls to keep me company.
Little Dolores, the bright-eyed Spanish girl who waits upon
me, cannot comprehend the pleasure I find in these lonesome
strolls; as nothing would tempt her to venture down into the
great dreary courts and halls of the palace after dark; and
Matteo Ximenez, the ragged historian who brushes my clothes
is sadly afraid I am very melancholy.
To the father he writes:
I really felt heavy at heart when I bid him farewell, as he
mounted his horse at the lower gate of the Alhambra, and I
was for a long time on the top of the tower of Gomares, watching him with a spyglass, as I caught glimpses of himl  at the
turnings of the road across the Vega, until I lost sight of him
and his tall trudging guide, as they disappeared behind the foot
of the mountain of Elvira.  It reminded me of some of the
poor Moors, who must lhave often watched from this tower the




384                  LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1829.
march of armies in that direction, as he departed by the Bridge
of Pinos and the Puente de Lope, the most famous pass in the
time of the Moorish wars.
Seven days after the departure of the prince, he
writes to him:
ALHAMBRA, May 23, 1829.
MY DEAR DOLGOROUKI:
I have had great pleasure in receiving your letter from
Malaga, by which I found that you had arrived so far in safety.
*  For a day or two after the departure of yourself and my
nephew, I felt somewhat solitary, especially while the weather
was clouded and rainy; but I got at work among my books
and manuscripts, and have become quite busy and cheerful.
*  *  The evening of the day of your departure, the Duke of
Gol paid me a visit in the Alhambra.  -  The next day I
dined en famnille with the duke; there were two or three gentlemen present besides the family, and I found the party extremely
agreeable.  I have since called at the house in the morning,
and found the duchess surrounded by.her beautiful children, and
occupied in teaching some of them  to write.  The duke has
many old chronicles, &c., and some curious manuscripts, which
he has offered to lend me, and has undertaken to procure me
access to the conventual libraries; so that I liave no doubt I
shall find him  and his family an acquaintance exactly to my
taste.
The day before yesterday the Alhambra was invaded by a
detachment of British officers, no less than seven.  I dine with
some of them to-day, who are quartered in a Fonda, just at the
foot of the hill of the Alhambra.  *  *  *
The death of the Queen has completely closed the opera for




AT. 46.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                    385
a long time. I shall have therefore little inducement to descend
into the city.  I have been down but once in the course of
several days.  I feel perfectly delighted with the sweetness and
tranquillity of my quarters, and as they will be daily improving
in their charms as the weather settles and grows warmer and
more sunny, I think I shall feel some difficulty in tearing myself away from them.'   e'
Dolores and the Tia send you a thousand expressions, but
given with such volubility, and in such an Andalusian dialect,
that I cannot understand half of them.
I am, my dear Dolgorouki. ever your attached friend,
WASHINGTON IRVING.
To his friend Henry Brevoort, he writes the same
day:
I have this morning received your most welcome letter of
the 30th March, which you forwarded to my brother Peter.
You see I am still lingering in Spain, and I declare to you, I
feel so much interested by this noble country and noble people,
that, though I have from  time to time made resolutions and
preparations to leave them, I have as often postponed my departure.  By the date of my letter you will perceive I am
royally quartered. I came to Granada about three weeks since,
to pass a little time here during the finest season of the year,
in company with a young Russian prince, the Secretary of the
Russian Legation; and the Governor of the Alhambra finding
us poorly lodged in the town, gave us permission to take up
our residence in a corner of the old Moorish palace, which had
been assigned to him for his quarters, but which he had not
taken possession of.  Here, then, I am  nestled in one of the
VOL. IT.-1 7      (25)




386                  LIFE AND LETTERS                      11829.
most remarkable, romantic, and delicious spots in the world.  I
have the complete range, and I may say, control of the whole
palace, for the only residents beside'\ myself are a worthy old
woman, her niece and nephew, who have charge of the building, and who make my bed, cook my meals, and are all kindness and devotion to;ne.  I breakfast in the saloon of the ambassadors, or among the flowers and fountains in the court of
the Lions, and when I am not occupied with my pen, I lounge
with my book about these oriental apartments, or stroll about
the courts, and gardens, and arcades, by day or night, with no
one to interrupt me.  It absolutely appears to me like a dream;
or as if I am spell-boundi in some fairy palace.:' 
I think I shall be tempted to remain here for three or four
weeks longer at least.  I wish to enjoy the delights of this
place during the hot weather, and to have a complete idea how
those knowing Moors enjoyed themselves in their marble halls,
cooled by fountains and running streams.
I thank you for the information you give me concerning the
publication of my works.  I am not sorry that the publication
of the second edition of Columbus is retarded, as I may have to
make a few alterations and corrections, in consequence of having
just received Mr. Navarrete's third volume of documents, containing some relative to Columbus.  For the same reason I am
willing the Abridgment should be held back.  If there is any
particular reason, however, for hastening the publication of the
latter, let it take place, as the corrections would not be very
material.
During my sojourn in the Alhambra, I shall have leisure
and quiet to look over my manuscripts and to get them in order,
so as to present some other work to the public before long.  I
shall also note down the corrections to b)e made in the History




.iET. 46.        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   387
of Columbus.  *  -x*  *  Your particulars concerning our an-.cient cronies are peculiarly gratifying to me.  Indeed, my dear
friend, you cannot imagine how I dote on the remembrance of
old friends and old times.  I have laughed heartily at your
account of that bulbous little worthy, Jack Nicholson.  Give
my hearty remembrances to him, and tell him  I set as much
store by him  as ever, notwithstanding he does not write me
any more letters.  I am rejoiced to hear that  *         has
at length come uppermost in the political wheel. -What a
whirligig world we live in! and then to have  *  e   for
his faithful Squire! I think it a pity fat Jack Falstaff had not
lived in these piping times. I'll warrant me he would have had
the robbing of the exchequer.
Your account of yourself is particularly encouraging'-" that
you might pass yourself off for a fresh bachelor of 35 "-God
bless us! who knows but I may be the same-though I
must confess, I think I am beginning to wax old as doth a garment, and am, like Jack Nicholson, gradually increasing in the
belt.  However, I begin to grow hardened and shameless in
the matter, and have for some time past given up all gallanting,
and declared myself an absolute old bachelor.
You seemn to be all masking mad in New York.  I am
afraid our good city is in a bad way as to both morals and
manners.  AWhat the cities of the old world take moderately.and cautiously she gets roaring drunk with.. I must say all
tllis rioting and dancing at the theatres, with public masquerades every night in the week, has a terribly low-lived, dissolute, vulgar look.  We are too apt to take our ideas of English
life from such vulgar sources as Tom and Jerry, and we appear
to be Tom and Jerrying it to perfection in New York.
Give mv kindest remembrances to your good parents and




388                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1829.
to all the Renwick family. It gives me sincere delight to hear
that Mrs. Renwick enjoys such good health and good spirits.
My dear Brevoort, the happiest day of my life will be when I
once more find myself among you all. We will then talk over
old times, and vaunt as much of our old feats and old frolics as
did ever Master Shallow and Fat Jack.  I have got so entangled, however, in literary undertakings here in Europe that I
cannot break away without interrupting all my schemes, and
sacrificing profits which a little time, patience, and perseverance
will enable me to realize, and which I trust will secure me a
moderate independence for the remainder of my existence. This
alone keeps me from immediately returning.  My dearest affections are entirely centred in my country.
Your affectionate friend,
W. IRVING.
It was on the day of the date of this letter, that
the Chronicles of Granada, which  had  appeared in
[New  York on the 20th of April, were published in
London, the work, though ready, having been kept
back by Murray in consequence of the Catholic Emancipation question, which then occupied the minds and
attention  of everybody.  In  July, Aspinwall wrote
him  that Murray said it did not sell well, but that
Newton was delighted with it, and Coleridge considered
it the chef dg^uvre of its kind.  Peter, who had set his
heart upon his sticking to his imaginary chronicler,
and completing his projected history of Moorish domination in, Spain, under the guidance of that delusive
personage  Fray  Agapida, wrote  him  that though




lET. 46.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   389
some disliked the fiction of Agapida, and the dashes
of comic humor gravely given through him, yet that
many persons of taste and judgment, whose favorable
opinion was no slight sanction, were delighted with
the amusing manner by which censure is conveyed by
the bigoted  and ill-directed praises of the old chronicler. The moral and  the lesson, he observed, were
both perfectly given in his view, while the mode of
effecting the object was both original and highly entertaining.
At the date of the following letter, the author was
about putting the finishing touches to The Legends of
the Conquest of Spain, which were brought to an end
"in the Alhambra, June 10, 1829," though six years
elapsed before their publication.*
[To Peter Irving. Rouen.]
ALIIAMBEA, May 30, 1829.
MY DEAR BROTHER:
*  *' ~  I have been working for some days past upon
the story of the Invasion by the Moors; part of what I have
done I think will please, but I cannot help contracting the
whole into very moderate limits. There are no substantial materials for an ample chronicle like the Conquest of Granada.
The history of Don loderick, as generally admitted by chroniclers, lies within a narrow compass.  To follow the chronicle
of the Moor Rasis in all its details would be to ride the invention of another, for it is just as much a fiction as the Gonsalvo
* The Legends close as follows: "Written in the Alhambra, June 10,
1829." " Finished Don Roderick," is the entry in his diary of June 11.




39(                  LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1829.
of Cordova of Florian, and a great part of the fiction is flimsy
and in bad taste.  I will do what I can with it, but I have an
internal feeling in tlese matters which is tyrannical with me,
and which I vainly strive against; or if ever I do work against
it I am sure to come lamely off.  I have picked some parts out
of the chronicle of the Moor whtich worked up with materials
from  other writers are admirable, and will add great richness
to the usual course of his history.  But the greater part of his
Episodes I have had, on much reflection, and after repeated
trial, to reject.  I am anxious before I leave my present quiet
retreat to put other manuscripts in order, so that I may have
materials to work upon with facility, even in the midst of distractions; but I find it difficult just now to apply myself with
the vigor and assiduity I could wish.  MAy mind is not sufficiently quiet and composed.  I am  full of anxiety to return
home, &c.  *, 
The day preceding the date of the letter which follows, Mr. Irving vacated the Governor's apartments in
the Alhambra, and  moved  his bed  into  the little
chamlber looking into the garden of Lindaraxa.
The arrangement with the Carvills, referred to in
the opening extract, was the sale of the copyright of
the second edition of Columbus and the abridgment,
for five years, for $6,000.
[To Peter lrving, Rouen.]
ALrAMBRA, June 13, 1829.
MY DEAR BROTHER:
*       *  *  The arrangement made by E. I. with the Carvills is very satisfactory. I am sorry, however, to find that




AT. 46.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  391
Carey has published the Conquest of Granada on the 20th of
April; I repeatedly requested that the work should not be
published in America until he received news that it had actually been published in England.  By a letter received this
day from Col. Aspinwall, I find that Murray has not yet published it, and probably will not do so until the proroguing of
Parliament.   
a*  "  *:  Nothing could be more favorable for study and
literary occupation than my present abode.  I have a room in
one of the most retired parts of the old palace.  One window
looks into the little garden of Lindaraxa, a kind of patio, full
of flowers with a fountain in the centre; another window looks
(own upon the deep valley of the Darro, which murmurs far
below, and in front of the window, on the breast of a mountain
covered with groves and gardens, extends the old Moorish
palace of the Generalife.  I have nothing but the sound of
water, the humming of bees, and the singing of nightingales to
interrupt the profound silence of my abode; and at night,
stroll until midnight about the galleries overlooking the garden and the landscape, which are now delicious at night from
the brightness of the moon.
I am determined to linger here until I get some writings
under way connected with the place, and that skall bear the
stamp of real intimacy with the charming scenes described.
It is a singular good fortune to be thrown into this most romantic and historical place, which has such a sway over the imaginations of readers in all parts of the world, and I think it
worth while departing from my original plan and remaining
here a little while to profit by it.
I am so delightfully situated that I descend but rarely into
Granada.  I have a very excellent place of resort there, how



392                  LIFE AND LETTERS                     [1829.
ever, in the house of the. Duke of Gor.  He is between thirty
and forty years of age, extremely prepossessing in his appearance, frank, friendly, and simple in his manners; one of the
best informed and most public-spirited men in the place.  The
duchess is perfect amiability, and they have a charming family
of children.  The duke has a curious library, which he has
offered for my use.  He has procured me permission also to
visit when I please the old Jesuit library of the university,
where I am left to myself with the keys of the bookcases, to
pass the whole day if I please, rummaging at perfect liberty.
At the duke's table I have made two or three very pleasant acquaintances, particularly the Marquis of Salar (Hernando del
Pulgar), the regular descendant of El de las IIazancas.  I-e is
a young man, of pleasant manners and with pleasant countenance, full of good humor.  I am  to have the rummaging of
the archives of his family on Monday next, and to see the
grants, &c., given to his ancestor by the Catholic sovereigns for
his exploits.  The caper of entering Granada and dedicating
the chief mosque to the Virgin appears to have been a real
fact, as it is particularly specified in the grant of Charles V.,
allowing the descendant of Pulgar always to sit in the choir.
There are various circumstances concerning this madcap hero
and his privileges which are current among the good people of
Granada, with whom  his memory is held in great regard.  I
shall carefully gather them and dress them up for use.''  *
The Chronicle of the Conquest of Spain is grave throughout; perhaps in one or two places there is a gleam of humor;
but I thought it misplaced in such a subject, and likely to displease the reader. Nothing has a more trivial or indeed heartless appearance than a jest introduced amidst scenes of real dignity and distress.       * * 




iET. 46.1         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   393
[To Prince Dolgorouki.]
ALHAMBAI, June 15, 1829.
MY DEAR DOLGOROUKI:
Your letter from Seville was highly gratifying to me.  
How I regret you could not have remained here some time
longer with me.  With all your raptures about Granada you
scarcely know anything of its real charms. The Alhambra requires warm  summer weather to make one sensible of its peculiar delights, and as to the beauties of the scenery, they are
only to be found out by quiet strolls in all directions.  Such
delicious walks as I have found out! and such enchanting
prospects! really surpassing anything we have seen together.
And then I have such a chamber!  You remember the little
suite of rooms locked up, where the Italian artist worked who
had been repairing the Alhambra.  It is an apartment built
either by Charles V. or Philip, and terminates in the open gallery where Chateaubriand wrote his name on the wall. I have
taken possession of that apartment, and one room is very comfortably fitted up as my bedroom and study.  I never had such
a delicious abode.  One of my windows looks into the little
garden of Lindaraxa; the citron trees are full of blossoms and
perfime the air, and the fountain throws up a beautiful jet of
water; on the opposite side of the garden is a window opening
into the saloon of Las dos Hermanas, through which I have a
view of the fountain of Lions, and a distant peep into the
gloomy halls of the Abencerrages.  Another window  of my
room looks out upon the deep valley of the Darro, and commands a fine view of the Generalife. I am so in love with this
apartment that I can hardly force myself from  it to take my
promenades.  I sit by my window until late at night, enjoying
VOL. 11.-1~*




394                  LIFE AND LETTERS                    11329.
the moonlight and listening to the sound of the fountains and
the singing of the nightingales; and I have walked up and
down the Chateaubriand gallery until midnight.  There is
something so completely solitary and tranquil in thus being
shut up in the centre of this great deserted palace.  The good
Tia and little Dolores remonstrated at first at my remaining
alone in such a remote part of the old building, out of the reach
of all assistance, especially as there was no fastening to any of
the doors and windows, excepting a slight lock to the outer
door.  I could not resist the. temptation of such a chamber,
however, and passed several nights here, in defiance of robbers
and JMoros encantado.s.  This day Mateo Ximenes has summoned up all his mechanical powers, and has been at work securing the doors and windows with bars and bolts, so that at
present I am in a state to stand a tolerable siege.
Little Dolores is very grateful for your remembrances
of her, and desires me to say a thousand kind things on her
part.  She is an excellent little being, with a great deal of
natural cleverness united with great naivete.  She takes good
care of me in consequence of your parting recommendation.
Mateo Ximenes, the historiador, continues to be my valet le
chlambre, messenger, and occasional guide and companion in
my strolls about the country, and has really taken me to several charming points of view which I should not otherwise have
discovered.  The Duke de Gor is just the kind of acquaintance
here that I could have wished. I have dined repeatedly with
him, and experienced many other friendly civilities.  He is
amiable, intelligent, frank, and obliging, with a simplicity of
manners that is peculiarly to my taste.  I have the use of his
library, which contains many curious works, and he has procured me the free use of the library of the university. I only




JET. 46.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  395
wish I could afford to spend a year in this place, I find myself
so charmingly situated.  i*
If you can put me up a parcel of French and English newspapers, and forward them  to me by any Corsario, you will do
me a vast kindness, for I am totally behindhand in the news
of the day, and do not know which way the world is rolling.
I do not care how old the papers are, for it is two or three
months since I have seen any.  Give my affectionate remembrances to the family, and believe me, my dear Dolgorouki,
Ever your attached friend and fellow traveller,
WASIINGTON IRVING.
[To Peter Irving.]
ALIIAMBRA, July 4, 1S29.
"  *' -' 1 shall remain here some little time longer. The
weather is intensely hot for travelling, while here I am living
in a Mussulman's paradise.  I cannot tell you how delicious
these cool halls and courts are in this sultry season.   *
My room is so completely in the centre of the old castle that I
hear no sound but the hum of bees, the notes of birds, and the
murmuring of fountains.
A day or two since the Duke of Gor passed the day with
-me, with his family of lovely children, the eldest a beautiful
girl of about nine years of age.  They came to breakfast, and
stayed until night, and a pleasant day we had of it.     * **
I live in the old palace as absolute and independent as the
Xey Chico himself.  *  *    My room is separated from the
residence of the family by long galleries and halls, and the winding staircase of a tower; and when I barricade myself in it for
the night, the little Dolores crosses herself to think I should'
venture to remain alone in such a remote part of this enchanted
palace.  In one of the great patios or courts there is a noble.




396                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  [IS20.
tank of water, one hundred and twenty feet long and between
twenty and thirty feet wide. The sun is upon it all day, so
that at night it is a delightfully tempered bath, in which I have
room to swim at large.
The gardens in the neighborhood abound with fine fruits,
strawberries, apricots, &c., &c., and brebas or early figs of that
large delicious kind which we met with one morning in a garden near Madrid.'What I would give, my dear brother, if you
were here to pass some time with me. It is just the kind of
place that your imagination could conceive for a summer residence; one really lives here in a species of enchantment.
At the  date  of the following  letter, the  diary
has this memorandum:  "Finished  MS. of Moor's
Legacy.  Received letters informing me of my appointment as Secretary of Legation to London."  The letter
is addressed to an English acquaintance, who had just
returned to Seville from  Mladrid, and is from  a copy
preserved among the author's papers.
ALHAMBRA, July 1S, 1S29.
MY DEAR DON WETHERELL:I
-*:*   *  You will be sorry to hear that Mr. Everett is
superseded by a new  minister, among the sweeping changes
made by our new president.  Another piece of news will probably surprise you almost as much as it has me, viz.: that I am
appointed Secretary of Legation to London.  So goes this mad
world; honors and offices are taken from those who seek them
and are fitted for them, and bestowed on those who have no
relish for them. I received news of my appointment this morning, with packets of letters from  my friends, urging me to
accept a mark of respect conferred on me without any solicitation.  I confess I feel extremely reluctant to give up my quiet




AT. 46.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                39
and independent mode of life, and am excessively perplexed.
There are many private reasons, independent of tie mere
wishes of my friends that urge me on, while my antipathy to
the bustle, show, and business of the world incline me to hold
back. I only regret that I had not been left entirely alone,
and to dream away life in my own way.
You tell me that Don Juan Nicasio Gallego is translating
my life of Columbus.  If he will wait a little while, the second
edition will be published in America, with many alterations,
and I will take care to forward him a copy.
I am scribbling this in a great hurry, as you may suppose,
having to reply to the letters received this morning, and my
mind being confused by their contents.  When you write to
your sister, give my kind remembrances to her and to the
girls.
Give my kind regards also to your father and mother, and
to all the folks of our little Tertullia, andc believe me ever very
truly,                      Your friend,
WASHINGTON IRVING.
The allusion to Nicholson in the following letter,
will be better appreciated when the reader is told that
Brevoort had credited to him the first idea of the appointment.  Nicholson, it seemed, had written a familiar epistle to the Secretary of State, suggesting such
an appointment as one that would redound to the honor
of the administration.  IMr. Van Buren in a letter to
John T. Irving, inquired if his brother would be likely
to accept if the office were tendered him, and being
affirmatively advised, the appointment followed from
President Jackson.




398                  LIFE AND LETTERS                      [1829.
[To Peter Irving, Fsq.]
ALIIAMrIRA, July 18, 1529.
MY DEAR BROTHEPR:
I received by the last post your letter of July 1st enclosing
letters from  E. I. and Brevoort, relative to a proposition to
appoint me Secretary of Legation to London, and by your
letter of July 5th, received this morning, I find the appointment has been made.  I regret that you have not expressed
your opinion or your wishes on this subject.  I am only left to
guess at them  by your enclosing the note written to you by
Beasley, wherein he says I must accept.  Such seems to be the
opinion and the desire of my brothers and friends in America.
I[ have a thorough indifference to all official honors, and a
disinclination for the turmoil of the world: yet having no
reasons of stronger purport for declining, I am  disposed to
accord with what appears to be the wishes of my friends.  My
only horror is the bustle and turmoil of the world-how shall I
stand it after the delicious quiet and repose of the Alhambra?
I had intended, however, to quit this place before long, and,
indeed, was almost reproaching myself for protracting my sojourn, having little better than sheer self-indulgence to plead
for it; for the effect of the climate, the air, the serenity and
sweetness of the place is almost as seductive as that of the castle
of Indolence, and I feel at times an impossibility of working,
or of doing anything but yielding to a mere voluptuousness of
sensation.  I found, therefore, that, like the Knight of Industry, it was necessary to break the charm and escape; and had
resolved to depart for England preparatory to my embarkation
for America.  This appointment, therefore, will not much alter
the course of my movements.  e    -    I shall prepare
for my departure  for England;  but I will not commit




.ET. 46.j        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 399
myself as to this appointment until absolutely necessary, as I
may hear from you in the interim, and be induced to change
my plans.  My Spanish materials I can work up in England,
where I can have all the necessary works, and where you will
be within reach to consult with.  Should I find the office of
Secretary of Legation irksome in any respect, or detrimental to
my literary plans, I will immediately throw it up, being fortunately independent of it, both as to circumstances and as to
ambition.
I cannot help smiling at the real source of this unlooked-for
honor. That I should have that fat, jolly little tar, Jack Nicholson, for a patron  I confess there is something so extremely
whimsical in this caprice of fortune that I cannot help feeling
in good humor with it.  Little Jack has had a kind of dogged,
determined kindness for me now for about twenty-five years,
ever since he took a liking for me on our getting tipsy together
at Richmond, in Virginia, at the time of Burr's trial. It is a
proof of the odd way in which this mad world is governed,
when a Secretary of State of a stern republic gives away
offices of the kind at the recommendation of a jovial little man
of the seas like Jack Nicholson.
The next day Mr. Irving was informed that his
old friend Paiilding, who was at Washington at the
time, had  earnestly seconded  the appointment, and
indeed, had been. a principal hand in promoting it.
A day or two after, he received a letter from Paulding
strongly urging his acceptance, and advising him in
that event to repair immediately to London to meet
Mr. iMcLane, the newly  appointed  Minister to  the




400                  LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1 29.
Court of St. James, about the time of his arrival.  lie
wrote to that gentleman the next day as follows:
[To Louis MceLane, London.]
ALHAMBRA, GRANADA, July 22, 1829.
MY DEAR SIR:
I have just received intelligence of my being appointed
Secretary of Legation to the Court of St. James, and that I am
expected to join you in London as soon as possible.  It gives
me great satisfaction, sir, to be associated in office with one of
whom  public report and the private communications of my
friends speak in the highest terms of eulogy. I shall make all
possible despatch in arriving at London, but must crave indulgence should I not be there as early as you could wish.
This intelligence has been entirely unexpected, and has found
me in the midst of occupations and engagements of a literary
nature, from which it will require a few days to disentangle
myself.  The travelling in Spain, also, is slow, particularly at
this sultry season. I trust, however, I shall be able to join
you towards the end of August.
In the mean time, my dear sir, I remain with great respect
and esteem,               Your very humble servant,
WASHINGTON IRVING.
To Mr. Everett he wrote the same day:
ALIIAMBRA,.July 22, 1829.
MY DEAR SIR:
It is with great regret that I perceive your name among
the number of those who have fallen beneath the edge of the
old: general's sword; which certainly spares not.  As you
seemed to be in some measure prepared for the event, and are




ET. 46.]           OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                     401
so ind-ependent of official honors by vouir varied talent and resources, I presume it has not much shaken your philosophy.  I
fancy you: must have been somewhat surprised among the list
of appointments to see my name as Secretary of Legation at
London.  You could not be more surprised than I was myself.  I have neither sought nor desired office, nor has any
application been made for me by my family or friends.  But
so it is in this world; they take from those.who are willing and
capable, and give to the indifferent and incompetent.  I have
been completely perplexed by this matter for a few days past.
I have no inclination for office  and I question wlether I have a
turn for it; my recluse literary life, for some time past, las
almost unfitted me for the bustle and business of the world, and
I have no political ambition to urge me forward in an official
career.  My brothers and my most particular friends, however,
have all written to me, urging me so strongly to accept this
that I have yielded to their wishes, in opposition to mly own.
As the office has been unsought by me, so in accepting it I
shall have it clearly understood that I commit myself to no set
of men or measures, but mean, as heretofore, to keep myself as
clear as possible of all party politics, and to continue to devote
all my spare time to general literature.
I am  much gratified by the favorable opinion
you express of the Chronicle of Granada.  I have had no intelligence fiom England since its publication.' *  *  I have
been passing eight or ten weeks delightfully in this old enchanted palace, and know not how I shall relish the smoke, the
noise, the hurry, and the commonplace of London after such a
tranquil and poetic abode.'  *  * I am glad that Don Jorge *
* The translator of the Sketch Book into Spanish.
VOL. II.-(26)




402                  LIFE AND LETTERS                     [1825
is likely soon to get his work into print; as the old wives say,
he has had a trying time of it.
Ever faithfully, your friend,
WASHINGTON IRVING.
To his brother Ebenezer he wrote the same day
(July 22) that his first thought on receiving the news
of his appointment was to decline, but perceiving it
was the earnest wish of his relatives, he had resolved
to accept.
I lave been il a great measure inclined also to this determination (he adds) by the very handsome manner in which the
office has been offered me by government, without any view
to party purposes, and without any solicitation by me or my
friends. I consider it, therefore, as emanating from my counr
try, and a proof of the good will of my countrymen, and in this
light it is most flattering and gratifying to me.  It is singular
how circumstances conspire to prolong my absence from home.
I had made up my mind to return to America this year.
When I left Seville, I packed up my books in trunks and left
them  there ready to be shipped for New York.  It was my
plan, after making a tour in Andalusia and revisiting Granada,
to embark for England, make literary arrangements in London,
pay a farewell visit to Peter and our connections in Birmingham, and set sail in the autumn for New York.  This appointment breaks up all this plan, and again puts off my return to
an indefinite period.  This is a great source of regret, for the
desire to return home has been continually growing upon me,
and all my schemes for a long time past have been shaped
towards that end.




A]T. 46.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                     403
[To Peter Irving, Rouen.]
ALIIAMBRA, July 22, 1829.
iMY DEAR BROTHERL:
I received yesterday your letter of July 6th, enclosing those
of J. K. Paulding and Beasley.  You will have seen by my
previous letter that I had guessed at your wishes with respect
to my appointment; but your letter gives me great satisfaction
in expressing your opinion so decidedly.  I now feel assured
and contented in the decision I had made.  Never hesitate to
give me your advice in all matters, whether trivial or impor.
tant.  You are my better half, and in most matters I have
more confidence in your jfidgment than in my own.
I shall leave the Alhambra in the course of a very few
days, but I shall leave it with great regret.  Never in my life
have I had so delicious an abode, and never can I expect to
meet with such another.' The weather is now intolerablvy lot,
and even reaches some of the main halls and courts of tlhe
p1):lace, but I have a delightful retreat in the halls of the baths,
which are almost subterranean, and as cool as grottos.  For a
fortnight past the old Count of Luque has been living in the
Alhambra for his health.  His chief infirmity, however, is old
age, whicl even tie airs of the Alhambra cannot cure.  He is
the lineal descendanlt of the Grand Captain, Gonzalvo of Cor(lova, and appears to have some remains of gunpowder propensities, as he has been a great chasseur in lhis time, and
even now  amuses himself with firing at swallows froml  the
balconies of the hall of ambassadors in the lofty tower of
Comares.  The old gentleman  and myself eat our meals together in the Patio de los Leones, amongst flowers and fountains, and in the evening the countess comes up to the Alhambra with a little party to play at Tresillo.     hlave this morning




404                   LIFE AND LETTERS                       [1829.
accompanied the old gentleman to town, and been over the
whole of his palace, which is of his own planning and building,
and an odd piece of architecture it is.  In his archives I found
a sword of the grand captain-and in the garret, covered with
dust, several unwieldy arquebusses, witlh matcllocks, which,
doubtless, made a great noise in the time of the conquest of
Granada.
A  day or two after his despatch to MIr. McLane,
he received a letter from  his brother Peter, conveying
the opinion  of some friends, that the office conferred
was below  his talents and standing in the world, to
which he replied as follows:
ALIAMnBRA, July 25, 1829.
I llave just received your letters of July 9 and 1'2.  It is
too late to be influenced by the afterthouglhts of honest,
suggested by the conversation of  ~, as I have already written to Mr. McLane that I would join him  iln London.  There
is much force in what they say; but after all, their objections
are merely on motives of self-pride; that I ought to hold myself above such minor appointments, &c.  Such objections have
little weiglit with me; the only reputation of which I an ambitious is not to be increased or decreased by official station.
Had the office of minister to London or consul to the same
place been offered, mere considerations of convenience would
lhave determined my choice between the two.  Whatever amIition I possess is entirely literary.  I cannot express to you
how much the hlabit of turning my thoughts to this point continually has made me careless about all others.  I accepted
this appointment, therefore, because it would gratify my friends,
and would link me witl myi country.  -   *I am  perfectly




LET. 46.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                    400
content, therefore, for a time to be Secretary of Legation.  If
the world thinks I ought to be minister, so much the better;
the world honors me, but I do not degrade myself.  I have
the same feeling in this respect that I have always lad on
points of precedence; I care not who takes the lead of me in
entering an apartment, or sits above me at table.  It is better
that half a dozen should say why is he seated so low down.
than any one should casually say what right has he to be at
the top.  So much for these objections.*  e  X
[To Ebenezer Irving, Esq.]
ALUAMBRiA, July 25, 1829.
MY DEAR BROTHER:
*  *  *AN While I was balancing in my mind what route
to take for England, a young English gentleman, by the name
of Sneyd, arrived here, bringing letters of introduction to Ine.
lie appears to be well bred, well informed, and of higlly prepossessing  appearance.   Fortunately, his plans require him
likewise to be in London about the end of August, and lie had
marked out a route for himself precisely the one I most wished
to take, but which I had felt unwilling to travel alone in this
sultry season, where one must travel much at night, and be
more exposed to robbers, &c.  WVe have agreed to travel together, therefore, and shall set off in the course of three days.
Our route lies through the Mediterranean provinces of Spain;
viz., Murcia, Valencia, Catalonia, &c., some of the finest and
most interesting parts of the peninsula.  We enter France at
Perpignan, and go from thence to Montpelier, up the Rhione to
Lyons, make a little detour to Geneva and from  thence direct
to Paris.  It is a wonderfully interesting route; I only regret
that we have to travel rather rapidly and in so sultry a season.




406                  LIFE AND LETTERS                     [1829,
To Peter he writes, July 28th:
I have just received your letter, covering that of Edward
Livingston, Mr. Van Buren, &c.  I leave Granada this afternoon at five o'clock in a kind of rumble tumble called a Tartana,
o0  two wheels.  We put in mattresses on which we lounge,
and knock our heads together; but it is better than travelling
on horseback in this hot weather.  I am now about to run the
gauntlet along the Mediterranean provinces, and if I get out of
Spain without being robbed, I shall really consider myself remarkably fortunate.  The great part of our baggage, however,
goes on by Corsarios, who are numerous and well-armed.
Your affectionate brother,
WASHINGTON IRVING.




AiT. 46.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING                       440'
CHIAPTER XXIV.
DEPARTURE FRO3I GRANADA-LAST LOOK OF THE ALHAMBRA-JOURNEY IN A
TARTANA-UNEXPECTED CIVILITY OF THE DUKE DE GOR —ROBBER MEMENTOES-SPANISH TRAVELLING-MOURNFUL FATE OF HIS TRAVELLING COIPANION-FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF DIPLOMATIC LIFE AT LONDON-BARGAIN IN
AMERICA FOR MOORE'S LIFE OF BYRON-TWO LETTERS FROM MOORE ON THE
SUBJECT-NEWTON-WILLIAM E. VWEST-DETERMINES TO ESCIEW LITERARY
DRUDGERY, AND GIVE DIPLOMATIC LIFE A TRIAL-RESOLVES UPON A LIFE
OF WASHINGTON.
TIWELVrE  days after his departure from  Granada,
Mr. Irving writes as follows from  Valencia  to
Henry Brevoort:
I had intended writing to you from  the Alhambra, but the
time for my departure arrived before I had half finished with
my correspondents.  I cannot express to you how sensibly I
feel the interest you have taken in my late appointment.  I
am gratified that my brothers consulted you concerning it, as I
know  you to consider my affairs both with blrotherly feeling
and with knowledge of the world.  As it appeared to be the
general wish of my friends that I should accept this appoint.
ment I have done so; but I assure you when I took my last
look at the Alhambra from  the mountain road of Granada, I
felt like a sailor who has just left a tranquil port to launch
upon a stormy and treacherous sea.  *'  *




408                  LIFE AND LETTERS                   [18S9.
I left the Allambra on the 29th July, after llaving passed
between two and three months there in a kind of oriental
dream.  Never shall I meet on earth with an abode so muach
to mny taste, or so suited to my habits and pursuits.  The sole
fault was, that the softness of the climate, the silence and serenity of the place, the odor of flowers and the murmur of
fountains had a soothing and voluptuous effect that at times
almost incapacitated me for work, and made me feel like the
Knight of Industry, when so pleasingly enthralled in the Castle
of Indolence.
I set out for Granada on my long journey for England in
company with a young Englishman, Mr. Ralph Sneyd.  Ile is
an Oxonian,    -     and well bred, intelligent, and amiable.
We have made our journey to this place in a kind of covered cart
called a Tartana, drawn by a mule.  In this we put two mattresses, on which we lolled as we were trundled along the mountain roads at the average of about twenty-eight miles a day.
The heat of the weather at this season of the year made it
unadvisable to travel on horseback, and as it was, we were
obliged to lie by several hours during the heat of the day, and
travel very early in the mornings and in the evenings.
To his brother Peter, he writes six days before
from  Mlurcia, when only about two hundred miles on
his journey:
Our Tartania resembles a covered English market cart. * *
It is the most lounging mode of travelling I ever knew.  We
walk a great part of thle way where the road is pleasant. and
good.  Our journey lhas been through a mountainous, sunburnt




XAT. 46.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   409
country, wild and solitary, with here and there little valleys of
great verdure and luxuriance, contrasting  strongly with the
general sterility.  *  *  In the course of our journey I met
with unexpected marks of the kindness and friendship of the
Duke of Gor.  Within a league of Guadix a carriage was
waiting for us in wllich was the administrator of the duke's
estates in that neighborhood.  He conducted us to the duke's
house in Guadix, which he informed us was at our command as
long as we chose to remain there.  Several canons of the
cathedral and other persons of the place called to see us in the
course of the evening.  Ices and other refreshments were
served us, and an excellent supper prepared for us. Sancho
Panza would have considered himself in paradise in such an
abode, but we left it about daybreak, and proceeded to Gor,
a small village from which the duke takes his title.  It is situated in a little green valley at the foot of lofty and rocky
mountains.  Here we passed the heat of the day and dined in
the old family castle, now almost a ruin and inhabited as a
farm house by one of the administrators of the duke, who had
received orders to entertain us.  I was extremely gratified by
these marks of attention of the duke, as he had said nothing to
me On the subject.
I have been unexpectedly pleased with Murcia, of which I
had heard nothing. It is situated on the banks of a little river,
in the midst of delightful gardens and orchards, filled with the
finest southern fruits, with here and there lofty palm trees to
give an oriental character to the scenery.  *  *  *
Two  days later, August 6th, he writes to Peter
from  Alicant:
Vor,. II.-18




410                  LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1829.
We arrived here yesterday after a very interesting journey
from Murcia.  The road lay along the valley of the Seguras to
avoid the Sierra of Crevellente, the passes of which are very
much infested by robbers.  We slept one night at Orchuela,
where Tadmor of yore played off the trick of manning his walls
with women armed with reeds.  It is in a most romantic, delicious country. Indeed, the whole valley of the Seguras is one
of the most lovely parts of Spain.  It is level as a table, and is
a continued garden for many leagues, covered with groves of
oranges, citrons, pomegranates, &c., with palm and date trees.
This fertile and beautiful country, which is compared to the
Delta of the Nile, is bordered by great rocky mountains, pic-,
turesque in their outlines and sublime from  their very nakedness and sterility.  We passed part of a day at Elche, which
has the complete appearance of an oriental town. The houses
are flat-roofed, the domes are of glazed tiles, an imitation of
brass and copper, that glisten against the deep blue sky, and
seem to increase the sultry look of the place, and the town is
surrounded by immense groves of date trees.  I felt as if suddenly transported into Egypt.
-W e leave this at two o'clock in the afternoon in a Tartana,
and have procured of the governor the escort of two soldiers,
to continue with us for two days, until we have passed through
some dangerous defiles of the mountains, and have reached the
main post road to Valencia; after which I trust we shall have
little more to apprehend fronl this kind of gentry.
In  the two  days  here  mentioned, in  which  he
passed through some of the most dangerous parts of
the country for robbers, he writes:




ET. 46.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 411
We have seen innumerable crosses by the road side; mementos of unfortunate travellers; and also the skulls of robbers
hanging in iron cages. At one place four robbers were brought
in who had been recently captured. In another, the dead body
of a robber chieftain who had been shot through the head by
the alcalde of the village. We have had the good fortune,
however, to travel unmolested, and have at length reached a
place from whence a line of diligence continues on to France.
From  this place, which was Valencia, his letter to
Brevoort was dated from which I have given an extract
at the commencement of the chapter.  I continue with
some further extracts from the samne letter:
We have traversed the ancient kingdom of Miurcia; have
touched at Alicant, and passed over a part of the rich plain of
Valencia.  In our route we bordered along the country lately
desolated by earthquakes, where the-earth is still in a feverish
state, and where we saw traces of the effects of the recent convulsions, in the walls of the churches, convents, and houses.
Though the towns through which we passed were not those
which had most suffered, yet we found many of the inhabitants
still living in huts of reeds and clay slightly put together, so as
to yield to any agitation of the earth.  We heard one still
morning the rumbling of an earthquake, but were not sensible
of any movement of the earth; we have since heard that it
was more violent in another part of the country.  Our route
has led us through many very wild and picturesque scenes and
many delicious valleys, but the general character of the Spanish
scenery is stern, mountainous, and arid; partaking more of a
melancholy sublimity than of luxuriance or beauty.  We have




412                  LIFE AND LETTERS                   [1829.
been through some of the tracts also most noted for robbers,
but have escaped without being obliged to pay toll; though
for the greater part of the way, we had no other escort but a
long-legged Portuguese, with a musket, who acted as our seirvant along the road.  Travelling through the greater part of
Spain is pretty much the same at present as it was in the days
of Don Quixote.  The posadas and ventas have seldom  anything to give you; you must either bring your provisions with
you, or forage for them  through the village.  Our beds at
night were the mattresses we brought in the cart, which were
spread on the floor, and we laid on them  in our clothes.  The
mattresses of the inns, where they possess such conveniences,
are not to be trusted at this season of the year.
We have now  arrived at the diligence road, and shall
henceforth travel more rapidly.  To-morrow evening we start
in the diligence for Barcelona, and in the course of a few days
I hope to cross the Pyrenees and find myself in the gay country of France. I assure you, however, I shall leave Spain with
feelings of great regret.  A  residence of between three and
four years in it has reconciled me to many of its inconveniences
and defects, and I have learned more and more to like both the
country and the people.
Mr. Irving remained in Paris a fortnight with his
brother Peter, when  hearing  of the arrival of Mr.
MeLane at Portsmouth, he set off to  meet him  in
London.
In a letter of October 6, to his sister, Mrs. Paris,
dated from  that city, to which he had now  returned
after an absence of more than five years, he has this
allusion to the fate of the travelling companion with




.ET. 46.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 413
whom he left Granada, and whom he describes to her
as " of an old family in Staffordshire, the Sneyds, a
young lady  of which  family, if you recollect, was
engaged  to  be married  to  the unfortunate  Major
Andre."
For three or four days that we continued at Barcelona I
was engrossed by the illness of my travelling companion, who
was laid up by a fever, the consequence of too much exposure
to the sun.  As soon as he could bear travelling we set off in
the diligence, and such was his eagerness to get to England
that we did not go to bed until we arrived at Paris; travelling
nine days and nights incessantly.  The consequence was a return of his fever, which confined him to his bed for several
days at Paris.  His object was to get to England by the beginning of September, as he was to be presented to a living of
one thousand pounds sterling a year.  Another living of about
the same income would fall to him in the course of a few years,
and he was to have about fifteen thousand pounds from his
mother. He had engaged himself to be married next spring to
a beautiful girl, the daughter of the British consul at Cadiz;
and was anxious to make every arrangement for a speedy
return to Spain.  All these prospects which had animated him
throughout our journey, and had been the themes of our frequent conversation, had made him more and more impatient to
get on the nearer he arrived to his journey's end. After being
several days in bed at Paris, he took advantage of the first return of strength to set off' with all haste for England. Poor
fellow! on my arrival in London I was shocked at receiving
intelligence of his death! The scenes I have had with his
afflicted parents are too painful to be repeated.




414                 LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1829.
The letter from  which this extract is taken, concludes:
As yet I can form no idea how diplomatic life will agree
with me.  So far it has been a complete interruption to all my
literary avocations. I am willing to give it a fair trial for the
satisfaction of my friends; but I doubt whether I should not
have consulted the interests both of them  and myself more
truly by adhering entirely to my literary career.
I am anxious to pay our relations in Birmingham  a visit,
but at present it is out of my power to leave London; nor
shall I be able to do so until I have accompanied Mr. McLane
in his visits of ceremony to the principal officers of the government and the foreign ambassadors, &c.  It is extremely tantalizing to be within ten hours' journey of the family at Birmingham, after a separation of between five and six years, and
not be able to pay it a visit; but this is one of the privations
attendant upon being no longer my own master.
An impatience of restraint, a love of leisure and
of ample freedom, a hatred of all tasks upon time or
talent, were characteristic of the author, and would no
doubt incline him  at first to chafe at these trammels of
official station, which he felt bound to respect, and
would not willingly slight.  It was not long, however,
before he became reconciled to his new  functions, as
will appear from the following letter, which gives also
some glimpses of old acquaintances.




gT. 46.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                    415
[To Peter Irving, Esq., Roueen.]
LONDON, Oct. 16, 1829.
MY DEAR BROTHER:'  ~f  "  Ever since my arrival in London I have been so
unsettled and so hurried about by various concerns that I have
not had a moment to devote to literary matters.  Mr. McLane
being a stranger in London, and for a part of the time confined
to his bed by illness, has needed my assistance incessantly.
MWe have also had all our visits of ceremony to perform, which
in this huge wilderness of a city take up a great deal of time.
I trust the hurry and bustle is now over, and that I shall begin
to have more time to myself.  Mr. McLane is settled in a very
commodious house No. 9 Chandos street, Cavendish Square;
and I have taken lodgings immediately opposite in the same
street, so that in half a minute I can step from my own sitting
room to the office of the legation, which is a very comfortable
one and entirely at my command.  There is likely to be but
moderate scribe work in the legation, and Mr. McLane seems
disposed to take the greater part of that off my hands, by employing young Walsh, who is attached to the legation, and
whose father wishes him to be considered by Mr. McLane as a
kind of private secretary.  *   *.
Leslie continues rising in reputation. I have not seen any
of the paintings he has produced during my absence, as they
are dispersed in the collections of various noblemen.  He is
about a large picture, which will be a very rich one-Falstaff
regaling at the table of Justice Shallow.  In this he introduces
most of the characters of the Merry'Wives of Windsor, &c.
He is at the same time painting a smaller piece-Uncle Toby
looking into the Widow  Wadman's eye.   It is admirable
— the figures much larger than those he used to paint, and ex



416                  LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1829.
ecuted with great spirit and freedom, and a happy union of
beauty and humor.
King Stephen has opened Drury Lane with very tolerable
prospects, considering the depressed state of theatres. He has
kindly put me on his free list.  He looks like the description
of the " old commodore," who had been so terribly knocked
about by the bullets and the gout, having chalkstones forming
on his knuckles, and rolling heavily in his gait.
I had a letter from Frank Ogden a few days since.  He is
quartered in our old lodgings under the care of the gentle Mrs.
Kay, now a little more advanced in life, and a demure widow.
She has tucked him into the French bed which she says Mr.
Peter Irving used to think the most comfortable in the world;
though Frank finds it rather short for his long legs. He has
Mr. Peter's easy chair also, and keeps Mr.'Washington's room
and bed for the accommodation of a friend.  He says he shall
always have a bed and plate and knife and fork for you and
myself when we choose to come to Liverpool.  Mrs. Kay
speaks of you with kind remembrance as one of the nicest men
she ever knew; and includes me also in her grateful eulogies.
Your affectionate brother,
WASHINGTON IRVING.
To his brother Ebenezer he writes:
Y*'*   *  The reception I have met with among my Eng.
lish friends, after my long absence, has been most flattering,
and I have received repeated expressions of kindness and good
will from various officers of the government, who have taken
occasion to express their satisfaction at my having been appointed to the legation. As I am now settled in lodgings, I




ET. 46.1        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.               417
shall have more time to myself, and intend immediately to take
hold of the large edition of Columbus and make the proposed
corrections in it. *  *  *
I requested in my last that you would let me have a statement of my pecuniary affairs that I might know how I stand,
and what income I can calculate upon.
It may seem  strange that he should be obliged to
solicit explicit information respecting the amount of his
funds in America, but he was always extremely easy
about money matters, and his brothers Ebenezer and
John thought it best that he should be kept in the
dark on the subject, lest le should remove them  to
England, or invest them  in solme hazardous speculations on the Continent.  " Your investment in Bolivar
mines" writes John to him, " and in steamboats in
France, had given me uneasiness on your account, and
I was satisfied that if the funds which had been accumulated  for you in this country were suffered to
remain here that they would be in the hands of those
who would keep them secured to you, and enable you
to reap a permanent benefit from them.'"  Ebenezer
lent himself the more readily to this reserve, that he
feared the generous disposition of Washington would
give away too freely, before he had secured an ample
independence.   " You  should  first determine,"  he
writes to him  on an occasion when his brother had
directed tie payment of $2,000 in wedding presents;
"what is necessary for the support of yourself and
VOL. II. 18*     (2{)




418                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1829.
Peter, and put that amount securely by, before you
undertake to give way to your generous feelings."
I notice your kind solicitude [writes Washington in reply
to this caution] lest I should give away my funds too freely,
but you need not be apprehensive on that account.  I am
guided in all these matters by proper calculations. x*    You
say that I ought to determine what amount per annum is sufficient for Peter and myself, and to realize and keep that untouched, before disbursing to others.  This leads me to request
that one provision should be made on Peter's account. Let
sufficient amount be invested in stock to produce him 
dollars annually.  Let it be placed apart, free from all pledge,
lien, or other embarrassment, and quite disconnected with your
own money matters, and as secure as possible from the risks
and vicissitudes of trade.
In the following letter we find the author undertaking  to make a bargain in America for MIoore's
Life of Byron, and Godwin's Cloudesley.  For the
English copyight of The Life, M[oore was to receive
from  lMurray 4,000 guineas, and he intimates in his
diary that he should be satisfied if he got from America
~300.  It will be perceived hereafter that his wishes
were gratified.
[To Ebenezer Irving.]
LONDON, Nov. 6, 1829.
MY DEAR BROTHER:
Either by the present or the ensuing packet ship, you will
receive a parcel of manuscript, being the first part of 7The Lfe




ET. 46.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 419
of Byron, by Thomas Moore, the poet.  I wish you to act in
respect to this work, as you would if it were my own; that is
to say, make the best bargain you can with some principal
bookseller for the purchase of it.  Moore is my particular
friend; our friendship is of several years' standing, and has
ever been of the most unreserved and cordial kind.  I am
deeply interested in his welfare, and for the ease and comfort
of his amiable family; and it will be very important for him
just now to make something additional from  the American
publication of his work.   The work will be published in London in two quarto volumes, but I presume may be published in
America in two octavos.  It will be extremely interesting,
and cannot fail to have a great sale. As you will be enabled
to give a bookseller a decided start so as to distance all competition, if not virtually to secure a copyright, you ought to receive
a very large sum  for the work.  The bargain, however, must
be struck quickly, and the work put to press without delay.
Should there be any demur or slowness to make a bargain on
the part of the publishers, you may tell them you are instructed
in such case to print and publish the work at my expense and
risk for the benefit of the author.  I cannot think, however,
but that there will be an eagerness to secure a work which,
it is expected, will make more noise and have a wider circulation than any work that has appeared for some time past.
There must be one or two provisos made; viz., that the
MSS. or printed sheets of the work be not shown about, and
that no scraps be permitted to appear beforehand in the public
papers; and, that the publication of the work shall not take
place until authorized by Mr. Moore himself, who will state,
by letter, the day when it may be given to the public. Should
anything prevent your attention to this matter, I wish you to




420                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1829.
place it in the hands of Brevoort, or, if he be absent, of some
other person in whom you can have full confidence. I am
extremely anxious that something very handsome should be
procured for this work; therefore do not hesitate to ask a
round sum.
In a few days I shall likewise have another commission of
the kind for you to execute.  You will receive a manuscript
copy of the first volume of a novel by Mr. Godwin (author of
Caleb Williams, &c.)  The novel will be in three volumes.
The two last volumes will be sent in sheets as printed. I have
likewise promised Mr. Godwin (who is in very limited circumstances) to procure for him  as much as possible from  some
American bookseller for ]is work. The bargain must be made
promptly, and the work put to press, to secure the advantage
of this early copy.  As Mr. Godwin has great celebrity, and,
as his work must form a contrast to the general run of novels
of the day, I should think it would command a ready and extensive sale.  A publisher, therefore, ought to pay you a very
handsome sum for thus effectually securing him the sole publication of the work.
It appears  by his brother's reply, that Messrs.
Carey, Lea & Carey, first made an offer to him of $150
for the  Life, which  they  afterwards  increased  to
$1,000.   James  and  John  Harper offered $850  at
first, but concluded a contract at $1,500; a sum which
came very opportunely  to  Moore to pay  for some
repairs on Sloperton cottage.  Both publishers were
loath to take hold of Cloudesley. The Harpers promised
to look over the manuscript, and if it met their ap



JET. 46.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 421
proval, said  they  might give  $100;  but on  receiving it they returned it and declined offering anything.
I give two characteristic letters of Moore, which
I find among Mr. Irving's papers, connected with the
successful result of this negotiation.
SLOPEPRTON COTTAGE, Jan. 31, S131.
MY DEAR IRVING:
I don't like to bother a great diplomat such as you are
about matters of the shop-particularly as you won't come and
be bothered here where I could have my wicked will of youbut time flies, and the golden moment (or rather silver one) for
the arrival of my dollars from America ought to be here.  Do,
like a good fellow, poke them up a little about it, as, if the cash
doesn't come, I must-go.
I would (but for the same dislike of pestering, &c.) have
asked you to send out my sheets of Lord Edward for me-but
sufficient to the day are the dollars thereof, and if you but get
me these three hundred and thirty-three pounds sterling out of
the fire, I shall give you a dinner when I come next to town,
at the Literary Union, and have Tom  Campbell (who is now
my particular friend) to meet you.  He has indeed written
me a letter which does him the highest honor, and shows him
to be a sound fellow at bottom, whatever he may be at top.
Seriously, nothing  could be more manly and warm-hearted
than the abandon with which he has again thrown himself upon
my friendship and forgiveness.
God bless you, my dear Washington.  Mrs. Moore, who
pines for you, sends her best regards with those of,
Ever yours,
THOMAS MOORE.




422               LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1829.
March 11, 1831.
MY DEAR IRVING:
You are the very man for my money.  A thousand thanks
for all the trouble you have taken, and you shall reap the usual
reward by having more inflicted upon you, as I mean to avail
myself of your kind services in the same way about my Lord
Edward.  It grieved me not to see you while I was in town;
though for neither seeing, hearing, or smelling had I a single
sense left from a most outrageous cold caught on my way from
Ireland.  I stayed but three days in town, and made one
effort to reach you, but fruitlessly.
As to my precious bill, I must beg you to pay it into the
hands of my partners in the Row, and I would say, the thirteen
pounds too, but that Bessy has put in a claim for that fraction
for herself; but then how to get hold of it-couldn't you just
run down with it to her some fine morning? it would be a
yccanterie worthy of you.        Ever yours,
T. MOORE.
The following extract, with some report of his old
cronies, is from  a letter to his brother Peter, dated
December 7, written just after he had returned from a
visit of three or four days to his sister's at Birmingham, with an account of which the first part is occupied.
Newton is quite the fashion; everything he paints, his
very sketches and studies are eagerly bought up.  Leslie is
working assiduously at his great picture, Falstaff and his
companion banqueting at Mlaster Shallow's.  It will be his
greatest work as to study and execution.  His picture of Uncle




ErT. 4.]j        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 423
Toby looking into Widow Wadman's eye (which is a capital
hit), is half done, and put by until the large picture is completed.
Little West, the painter, is at the country seat of Francis
Baring, or at some seat in the neighborhood; being fully employed in painting up the whole county.  He has been in
town but once in two or three days since I have been here,
when we had a merry dinner, lie, Newton, and myself, at Mills'
lodgings.  I expect him shortly in town, to remain.
Father Luke is in Ireland, where he has been very successful. He has long had a hankering to return to London, and
wrote to Newton a few days since, mentioning that the tidings
of my residence here had determined him-having a grateful
recollection of the strong green tea he used to drink at our
lodgings. He has authorized Newton, therefore, to look out
for lodgings for him.
Soon after, having received from his brother Ebenezer the " financial report' for which, as we have seen,
he had applied, presenting a satisfactory statement of
the alount of funds in his hands, the proceeds of his
American  copyright, he gives Peter to  understand
that ie should not think it essential to labor in his literary vocation.
My idea [he says] is not to drudge at literary labor, but to
use it as an agreeable employment. We have now sufficient
funds to ensure us a decent support, should we choose to retire
upon them. We may therefore indulge in the passing pleasures
of life, and mingle amusement with our labors.




424                 LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1829.
I feel disposed, now that I am in diplomatic life, to give it
some little trial. The labors are not great, especially in my
present situation.  It introduces me to scenes and affairs of
high interest, and in that way perhaps prepares me for higher
intellectual labors.  The very kind and flattering manner, also,
in which I am treated in all circles is highly gratifying.
Between one and two months prior to the date of
this extract, I find the following entry in Mr. Irving's
diary, now about to be laid aside.
November 23dc.-Dined at Sir Robert Inglis' —present Sir
James Mackintosh and daughter, Mr. and Mrs. Wilberforce
and daughter, Mr. Miller-Sir James Mackintosh proposed
to me to join him, Sir Walter Scott, and Moore in their historical project.
At the close of this year, Mr. Irving was bending
his thoughts to a Life of -Washington, and vainly flattering himself that he would begin upon it at once, as
we gather from  this intimation in a letter to his brother
Peter, dated December 18, written soon after some
overtures from Dr. Lardner for a Iistory of the United
States, to which he was at first inclined to listen.
I have abandoned the idea of the History of the United
States, but have determined immediately to undertake a work
in lieu of it, which will be more universally popular; and which,
if tolerably executed, must be a valuable and lasting property.
I mean a Life of Washington.  I shall take my own time to




YET. 46.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.               425
execute it, and will spare no pains. It must be my great and
crowning labor.
Years, however, were to elapse before this final
labor of his pen was even commenced.




426                   LIFE AND LETTERS                       [1829.
CHAPTER XXV.
LETTER TO GOUVERNEUR KEMBLE-AWARD OF A GOLD MEDAL BY THE ROYAL
SOCIETY OF LITERATURE-THE OXFORD HONOR-SKETCH OF WILLIAM IV.LETTER TO PETER IRVING-ARTICLE IN THE LONDON QUARTERLY-LETTER
TO LOUIS MICLANE FROM PARIS AFTER THE ELEVATION OF LOUIS PHILIPPE
-EXTRACT FROM A LETTER TO THE SAMEE-TALLEYRAND-LITERARY CONCERNS-BREVOORT-DOLGOROUKI-PETER POWELL-JOHN RANDOLPH- THE
VOYAGES OF THE COMPANIONS OF COLUMBUS IN THE PRESS-INTERRUPTIONS
OF HIS OFFICIAL SITUATION-DISTRACTIONS OF LONDON LIFE-THE KING AND
THE MISSION-NEWTON-LESLIE-KENNEY-PAYNE-RECEIVES NOTES FROM
MURRAY FOR THE VOYAGES.
T   OPEN  this chapter with  a letter of Mr. Irving to
his early friend, Gouverneur  Kemble, who  was
now occupying his bachelor home in the noble solitude
of the highlands of the Hudson.  It was situated nearly
opposite West Point, and  a few  miles north  of the
old colonial seat of Captain Philipse, that favorite
haunt of Irving, Brevoort, Kemble, and Paulding, in
days long gone by.  Kemble was now  the proprietor
of an  extensive foundery, from  which he occasionally
supplied  the government with  cannon, and  to  "the
forges and fires" ofwhich the letter alludes:
LONDON, Jan. 18, 1830.
MY DEAR IKEMBLE:
I am  most heartily obliged to you for your letter, which
smacks so much of old times and early fellowship; and I take




4ET. 46.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 427
it the more kindly of you, because I believe I was in your debt
for one or two previous letters, which from the hurry of various
affairs I had suffered to remain unanswered.  I had hoped and
designed to have been by this time once more among you all
in New York, and had trusted to find in you a boon companion, to keep me in company and countenance in my old bachelorhood, and to have philosophized good-humoredly with me
on all we had seen and experienced. This diplomatic appointment, however, has toppled down all my air castles, and has
fixed me for a time amidst the smoke and fog of London.  I
have a most craving desire to visit old friends and old scenes;
and there is no place I should feel greater delight in beholding
than our ancient nest in the highlands.  The poor captain is
gone! and I should miss him sadly, but I have an idea that I
should relish your stronghold of Cold Spring hugely.  I cannot act up to your advice in keeping myself thin, to mount
your hill without blowing; I have a villainous propensity to
grow round and robustious, and I fear the beef and pudding of
England will complete the ruin of my figure.
I was surprised a few days since by a visit from our old
convive S —, whom I have often dined in company with at
your house and the captain's. He looks a little the worse for
wear; his face has grown to a dusky red, heightened by a
very scanty shock of white hair.  We had a good deal of talk
about old times, and he expresses a resolution to revisit New
York immediately, should we be successful in reopening the
direct trade with the West Indies; in which case he seems
sanguine of making a great deal of money.        *  Ile introduced to me a young gentleman by the name of Brush, whose
father I used likewise to see at your house, and who is on the




428                 LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1830.
point of sailing for Spain, for which country I shall give him
some letters.
I often see a lady who boasts of having enjoyed your intimacy while in London.  I mean Miss- -, who now is an
ancient spinster, but a very merry and bustling one.  Her
mother is about eighty years of age, and a relic of the ancient
tory times of New York; being one of those who left it, I believe, at the close of the Revolution. Bating her high tory
notions, she is a thorough American; that is to say, as far as
love for the soil goes; for otherwise, I believe she looks upon
the nation as little better than a rebellious race.
AWlhy cannot you leave your forges and fires in the highlands for a season, and take a lounge for a few months in London? The crossing of the ocean at present is nothing; and you
might be back before your fires had gone out or your irons
grown cold; and return too with a whole budget of materials
for after thought and after talk.  By all accounts you must
have made money enough to be able to take the world as you
please; and having neither wife nor child to anchor you at
home, I do not see why you should not now and then take a
cruise.  Think of this.  I should be delighted to meet you in
London, and you and Peter and myself would have some cozy
hours together.
Give my affectionate regards to James Paulding and his
wife, and to such of our old cronies as are within hail.
I am, my dear Kemble,
Ever very affectionately your old friend,
W ASHINGTON IRVING.
On  his birthday, the third  of April, the author
received verbal intelligence that the Royal Society of




LET. 47.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 429
Literature had that day voted him  one of their fifty
guinea gold  medals.  " What makes tllis the more
gratifying," he writes to Peter at Birmingham " is
that the other medal is voted to Hallam, author of the
Middle Ages."
Two days afterwards, he received the following
official announcement of the intended honor:
ROYAL SOCIETY OF LITERATUREE,
PARLIAMENT STREET, April 5, 1330.
SIR:-I have the honor to acquaint you that at a meeting
of the Council of the Royal Society of Literature, held on Saturday last, for the purpose of awarding the two Royal Medals
annually placed by his Majesty at the Society's disposal, to be
adjudged to the authors of Literary works of eminent merit, or
of important Literary Discoveries, one of the Medals was adjudged to you.
You are consequently requested to attend at the anniversary meeting of the Society, to be held at this place on Thursday the 29th instant, at three o'clock, in order to be presented
with the said Medal.
I have the honor to be, Sir,
Your most obedient humble servant,
RICHARD CATTERMOLE,
Secretary.
This medal has a figure of Mercury on one side; on
the other the head of George IV., with the inscription
Georgius IV. Reg: Soc: Litt: Fundator et Patronus:
MDCCCXXIII.  Round the rim  of the medal is inscribed: Washington Irving.  Litt: Human: Insigni.
It is a curious incident connected with its history,




430                LIFE AND LETTERS                [1830.
that after his return to America, this medal was once
secretly stolen, and as furtively restored; the thief,
during the confusion of a fire in the neighborhood,
taking it from the safe of his brother's office, where it
was deposited, and afterward slyly opening the door
of that brother's residence at night and throwing it
into the hall; -a compunctious restitution to which
the inscription no doubt contributed.
In less than a month after the presentation of the
gold medal, as if honors, like misfortunes, should not
come single, the modest author found himself committed for the degree of LL.D., which the University
of Oxford proposed to confer on him.' Overruling
the ultra-modesty of your scruples," writes the RIev.
Arthur Matthews, May  19, " I have not hesitated
to commlit you with the academical authorities of
Oxford, where you will be  due  on  the  23d  of
June, the day fixed for the ceremony of annual commemoration in the theatre, at which it is usual to
confer honorary degrees."  It was not without great
diffidence and reluctance that Mr. Irving yielded to
a compliment which so many are found to covet.
The reception of the proposed honor, however, was
deferred to another year, in consequence of the dangerous illness and impending death of the king, which
would throw  a gloom  over everything, and deprive
the ceremony of all eclct.
I have heard nothing further on the subject of
the Oxford honor," he writes to Peter, June 6, 1831,




AET. 47.]      OF WASHINGTON IRVING.            431
when the year had nearly rolled round, and the appointed time was approaching,' and hope the matter
may be dropped."  It was not dropped, however,
for after sealing his letter, he opens it again to inform
his brother in a postscript that the degree was unanimously awarded him; that the day of the ceremony
was the 15th of June, when he must certainly be there.
lie accordingly repaired to Oxford at the appointed
time, when the proposed dignity of LL.D. was conferred.  The ceremony was somewhat embarrassing
to the modest recipient of the honor, who, on advancing to receive the complimentary degree, was
greeted with prolonged acclamations from  the  tundents, mingled with cries of Diedrich Knickerbocker,
Ichabod Crane, Rip Van Winkle, Geoffrey Crayon,
Columbus, Sketch Book, Bracebridge Hall, &c. I have
heard him  say that he was quite overcome, though
all the time contending with a laugh at the vociferous
and saturn alian applause.  The ceremony over, he
hurried back to London to take leave of Mr. McLane,
who was then on the eve of returning to America.
Though by no means insensible to this compliment
to his character and literary fame, he never used the
title. In a letter of Nov. 25, 1851, to Donald G.
Mitchell, the popular author of Reveries of a Bachelor, whose writings he had enjoyed " with peculiar
relish,' and who was proposing to dedicate some new
volume to him with the title appended to his name,
he writes in accepting what he deems the "overflat



432                LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1830.
tering" compliment: " I would only suggest that in
your dedication you would omit the LL.D., a learned
dignity urged upon me very much' against the stomach of my sense,' and to which I have never laid
claim."
The following  letter, addressed July  27, to his
brother Peter, then on a visit to his sister at Birmingham, after the death of George IV., and before the
coronation of his successor, gives a playful sketch of
the new monarch, William IV.
*  *  ^  The king keeps all London agog; nothing but
sights, and parades, and reviews. He is determined that it
shall be' merry old England once more. Yesterday morning
there was a splendid review in St. James's Park, at which all
the world was present. Then a royal breakfast at the Duke of
Wellington's, attended by the dignitaries of the court and several of the foreign ministers, Mr. McLane among the number.
In the afternoon there was held a chapter of the order of the
Garter, for the installation of the King of Wurtemburg.  Then
a grand dinner at the palace, at which Mr. and Mrs. McLane
"assisted."  Mr. McLane and the king became so thick that
some of the corps diplomatique showed symptoms of jealousy.
The king took to him especially, when he found he had begun
the world by being a midshipman. The king and Mrs. McLane
also had some pleasant discourse.  *  *  In the evening there
was a brilliant dress ball at the Duke of Wellington's, at which
I was present.  The king was there in great spirits, notwithstanding the busy day he had been through.  He spoke to
everybody right and left in the most affable manner, and I ob



ET. 47.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                438
serve he has an easy and natural way of wiping his nose with
the back of his forefinger, which I fancy is a relic of his'old
middy habits.  Upon the whole, however, he seems in a most
happy mood and disposed to make every one happy about him,
and if he keeps on as he is going, without getting too far out
of his depth, he will make the most popular king that ever sat
on the English throne.
The following letter was written just after news
of the flight of Charles X. from the French capital,
and touches briefly upon some literary arrangements.
The "article in the Quarterly" for which Lockhart,
its conductor, sends him  fifty guineas, was a review
of the Conquest of Granada, published in that periodical in May.  It was a mere illustrative and explanatory review, written by him at the special request of
Murray, a year after the publication of the work, to
clear up some misconceptions, to which the use of that
fictitious personage, Fray Antonio Agapida, had led,
and did not contain a line commendatory of the work,
though it was afterwards made the foundation of an
ignoble charge against him, that he was not above
puffing his own works.  He had not asked or expected
any compensation for it.  Some of the observations in
this article were afterwards embodied by him in a
"Note to the Revised Edition " of the Chronicles, published at New York by G. P. Putnam, in 1850.  The
reader will find the Note at the end of the Introduction
to the volume.
VOL..-1. 9     (58)




434                  LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1830.
[To Peter Irving, B~irmingchctml.]
LONDON, August 3, 1830.
MY DEAR BROTHER:
Henry and myself set off this evening at six o'clock for
Southampton, to cross on the steamboat to  Havre.   Mr.
McLane has been kind enough to permit me to make out
Henry's passport as attached to the legation; this will be a peculiar protection to him in entering and coming out of France.
I trust, however, the sanguinary struggle is over; by the last
accounts all is tranquil at Paris.  It has been a brilliant revolution.  I cannot but regret that I was not at Paris at the
time.  However, I shall get there in time to witness some of
the effects.  The excitement and exultation of the Parisians,
&c., &c.
I hope they will make no terms with the Bourbons.
I shall now expect to see Spain in a complete combustion.'  I received a letter from  Lockhart this morning
from  Scotland, enclosing me Murray's check on a banking
house in London for fifty guineas, for the article in the Quarterly, and hoping that I would contribute further articles occasionally.
Six days later (Aug. 9) he writes to Mr. McLane
from  Paris:
I have just returned from  the Chamber of Deputies, where
the Duke of Orleans has taken the oath, signed the charter,
and been hailed king.  His appearance, manner, and language
were manly, frank, and dignified.  The whole ceremony was
simple and noble, and conducted with perfect good sense and
good taste.  The English papers will, of course, give all the




ET. 47.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   435
details.  Mr. Rives was the only member of the diplomatic
corps present, except a young gentleman of the name of
Cradock, who is attached to the British embassy.  The new
king will be called "Louis Philippe."  His elevation to the
throne appears to give general satisfaction. There is no great
show of enthusiasm, for, in fact, the feelings of the Parisians
are a little exhausted by their recent excitement.  There is,
however, what is likely to wear much better than enthusiasm;
universal cheerfulness and rational content.  People seem generally convinced that they have taken the most effectual measure to produce tranquillity and to ensure the perpetuity of the
great political blessings they have attained. All Paris is quiet;
everything goes on as usual, and yolr, would scarcely credit
your senses that this capital a few days since was a scene of
civil war, and at the mercy of the rabble.
McCG     is here, under the military title of colonel.  He
witnessed some of the scenes of the revolution from  his window, with pen in hand, writing reams of letters to his friends
in America.  He is hotter in the head than ever, and seems to
think a revolution one of the simplest and safest remedies possible for any political malady.  He thinks he knows exactly
how  to administer the dose and superintend its operation.
C-    is here, and they have consultations together.  God
help the inflammnable South!
After M/r. Irving's return to London, Mr. Mclane
took  a little holiday to visit the curiosities at Paris,
during which interval, his Secretary of Legation addressed  him   a letter (dated  Sept. 17), of which  I
give the following extracts:




436                  LIFE AND LETTERS                      [1830.
*       *  *  Before you receive this, you will doubtless have
read in the newspapers the shocking accident that has befallen
Mr. Huskisson at the great ceremony of opening the Liverpool
and Manchester railroad, where he was run over by one of the
steam carriages, and one of his thighs and legs crushed and
lacerated in so dreadful a manner as to render it impossible at
the time to perform  an amputation.  His life is despaired of,
and it is very probable we shall this evening hear of his death.
It is said that the Duke of Wellington but very recently
made overtures to Palmerston, the two Grants, and Melbourne,
to receive them  into the cabinet, but that they refised unless
Huskisson should be admitted.  It is added, that after much
demur and consideration the duke intimated that even this
point might be accommodated.  If such should really be the
case, the melancholy accident in question has effectually removed a great obstacle to an important change in the cabinet.
At any rate it has relieved the present cabinet from  a formidable opponent, who, if not propitiated, would have made himself felt in the coming session.  It is a heavy loss, however, to
the country.
Talleyrand's appointment * seems to be but little relished
in this country, and indeed it is an unworthy one.  The new
government should have shown some regard to morals as well
as talents in such a conspicuous appointment.  And, in fact,
the talents of Talleyrand are not of the kind suited to the day
and the crisis.  The policy is of the dissolute, heartless kind of
the old school; the trickery and intrigue of cabinets and saloons; not the policy suited to a free country and a frank and
popular government.  I question the greatness of any political
talent that is not based upon integrity.
Talleyrand was appointed minister to England.




ZT. 47.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.               43'
As to Talleyrand, he cares foi nobody and nothing.  His
patriotism is a mere local attachment, like that of a cat which
sticks by the house, let who will inhabit it.
On Mr. McLane's return to London, the Secretary
took a diplomatic furlough which he passed in the
family group at Birmingham, suspending the printing
of "The Voyages of the Companions of Columbus,"
then in progress, and taking down with him  some
manuscripts upon which he hoped to get to work.
My visit to Birmingham [he writes to Peter.firom London,
October 19] was for ten days, and it was a truly delightful one.
Irving was there, and Will returned a few days before I came
Bway from a tour in Wales, so that we had a gathering of all
the family.  I cannot tell when I have enjoyed myself so serenely.  It was such a treat after the hurry and scurry, and
heartless bustle of London.  Every morning I wrote in the
nice little study, and every evening chatted, and laughed, and
dozed in the necromantic arm chair which you must well remember.  -' * 
I have finished three of the Alhambra tales, and worked
upon three others. Dolgorouki, who has read those finished,
speaks in the most encouraging terms of them, and from his
knowledge of the country, and the places and people, he is
enabled to judge of their local verity.
Brevoort is here, and will not return to Paris before the
early part of next month; we are rambling about London together.
Poor Mrs. McLane is confined to her bed with an attack
of acute rheumatism, that deprives her of the use of her limbs,




438                LIFE AND LETTERS                 [1830.
and subjects her to excruciating pain.   It throws quite
a gloom over our home circle, for she is our sunshine.
Brevoort had crossed the ocean in the spring.  Mr.
Irving had written to him from London, May 31, when
his brother Peter was with him:
I look forward with the greatest delight to the prospect of
our once more meeting, and should have endeavored to be at
Havre to greet you on your landing on this side of the Atlantic, but I am so trammelled by official and other duties that I
find it impossible to leave England. Do let me hear from you
and tell me your plans, and whether it is probable you will
soon pay London a visit. Peter is with me, and will be rejoiced to take you once more by the hand.
In another letter to Peter, three days later (Oct.
22), he has further allusion to Brevoort and Dolgorouki, and gives us likewise a glimpse of John Randolph, and Peter Powell.  " Peter Powell has come
back from  Italy," said Wilkie to him, " and we shall
now have him  serving up to us the Last Judgment
of Michael Angelo."  In the view of the painter, there
was no  grotesque  perversion to  which  his daring
mimicry was not equal.
I received last evening your letter dated Sunday, 17th,
which, though you set out by saying you had nothing of any
interest to say, proved one of the most pleasing and satisfactory that I have received from you for a long time, for it
showed me that you were enjoying a cheerfulness of spirit and




ET. 4g.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                    439
golden serenity of mind, worth all the world's wealth and
glory, and quite above it all.  Your dreamy morning in the
Louvre and Tuilleries was quite in character.   I hope and
trust, my dear brother, you will be spared to enjoy many,
many such, and that the rest of your life will be passed in an
easy literary leisure among those scenes that are most to your
taste and fancy.
I have been profiting also by the late fine weather to make
a few rambles about the metropolis and its vicinity, with Brevoort and Dolgorouki.  Yesterday, which was such a delicious
autumnal day as is rarely seen in England, we went down to
the Gallery at Dulwich, and afterwards dined at a country inn;
returning to town part of the way on foot, part per coach.
Peter Powell returned lately from his Italian tour, or rather
sojourn; as short and merry as ever, and still more learned in
painting, intending, I believe, to devote himself to landscape
painting, by way of helping to make both ends meet.
Randolph is here, and more meagre and eccentric than
ever.  He says lhe left St. Petersburg on account of ill health;
the climate not agreeing with him, and because it was no
longer necessary for the object of his mission that he should
reside there.  He gave me a very minute account of his presentation to the emperor and empress, with each of whom  he
had long conversations, and I believe made the empress laugh
at least as much by the point of his conversation as by any
peculiarity of manner. The story of his kneeling to the emperor must have arisen from what he relates himself; that in.
advancing, as one of his legs is contracted and somewhat
shorter than the other, he limped with it in such a manner that
lie supposes the emperor thought he was about to bend one
knee, as he made a movement as if to prevent such a thing and




440                LIFE AND LETTERS                 [1830.
said " No, no."  Randolph, however, is too well informed on
points of etiquette, and too lofty a fellow to have made such a
blunder.  I have no doubt, however, that he has left behind
him the character of a rare bird.
Randolph, however "well informed on points of
etiquette," had his own notions about doing things,
and I have heard Ir. Irving give an amusing account
of his presentation at court in London, as it came
under his own notice.  Mr. McLane and Mr. Irving
called for him  in a carriage, and they found him  prepared to accompany them with black coat, and black
small clothes, with knee buckles, white stockings, and
shoes with gold buckles, a sword, and a little clack
hat.  They looked wonderingly at his dress, so likely
with his odd figure to attract observation.  He pointed
to his gold buckles.' No sham  about them.  Rundell
and Bridge, by!!" To some observation, as to
the propriety of his dress, " I wear no man's livery,
by -! "  But, said Mr. Irving, the object of a court
costume is to avoid awkwardness and challenge; there
is a convenience in it; and at all events you don't
want a sword.  " Oh now, Irving, as to a sword, you
need not pretend to teach me about that; my father
wore a sword before me, by   -!" Mr. Irving explained that the sword belonged to a different costume, but was out of place in that dress.  This seemed
to strike Randolph, and he unbuckled his sword afterwards, and left it in the carriage.  As he was about to
enter the antechamber, where the foreign ministers are




JEi, 47.]      OF WASHINGTON IRVING.              441
in waiting, he was, as Mr. Irving had feared, stopped
by the usher. Mr. Irving immediately explained who
he was, and  he was permitted  to pass.  "There
now, Randolph," said he, " you see one of the inconveniences of being out of costume."  In the antechamber, the foreign ministers eyed him  curiously.
Admitted to the presence chamber, he preceded Mr.
Irving, made his bow to royalty in his turn, and then
passed before other members of the royal family.  As
he went by the Duke of Sussex, the latter beckoned
Mr. Irving; " Irving," said he, with his thumb reversed over his right shoulder, and moving it significantly up and down, half suppressing a laugh
at the  same time; " who's  your  friend, Ilokey
Pokey? "  Mr. Irving, jealous for the honor of his
country, replied with emphasis: "That, Sir, is John
Randolph, United States M]inister at Russia, and one
of the most distinguished orators of the United States."
Some time afterwards, Mr. Irving was dining with
the Duke of Sussex, and he inquired after McLane,
who had returned to his own country; then, pursuing
his inquiries, he added with a significant smile,' and
how is our friend Hokey Pokey?"
Ranldolph, said Mr. Irving, in concluding these anecdotes, a long, gaunt, thin, poke of a fellow, with no
beard, small features, bright eyes, attracted attention
wherever he went-lhe was queer, but always wore
the air and stamp of a gentleman.
I asked what impression he made by his conversaVOL. II.-1 9*




442                  LIFE AND LETTERS                   [1830.
tional powers.  " le was remarkable in this respect,"
he replied; " but he was not at home among the London wits.  I dined with him  when Sidney Smith and
others were present, but he did not shine..lie was
not in his beat."
The following extract of a letter to Peter Irving,
dated  London, Oct. 29, 1830, gives a little insight
into his literary labors:
I am jogging on with the printing of the voyages. Murray
has returned from Scotland, and expresses himself highly pleased
with the part of the work that is already ill print.  I have received the sketches from  Spain of the convent of La Rabida,
Palos, the arms of the Pinzons, &c., which will be engraved as
illustrations.  The whole of the edition of the abridgment of
Columbus (ten thousand copies) is, I am told, already sold.'
The three legends that I have finished are, The Three Beautiful Princesses, The Moor's Legacy, and the Garden of Lindaraxa; they are considerably altered and improved; and the
hints you noted down have been of great service.
To his brother Ebenezer, to whom  he had been
transmitting a duplicate copy of the Voyages of the
Companions of Columbus for publication in America,
simultaneously with  its publication  in  England, he
sends, Nov. 22, this glimpse of his difficulty in making
his diplomatic and literary life go hand in hand.
I hope to be able in tile course of the winter to complete
somne writings of a fanciful nature which I have in hand, but
*It will be recollected he had given the Abridgment to Murray.




ET. 47.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                    443
really I am so hurried and hampered in London that I have
no time for anything.  I feel my official situation a terrible
sacrifice of pleasure, profit, and literary reputation, without furnishing any recompense.
Ten days later (Dec. 3) he writes to Peter, snugly
quartered " in the old Hotel de Breteuil " at Paris:
My literary concerns remain in statu quo. I have not been
able to think of them since last I wrote you.  As this gust of
diplomacy is now blown over and the bustle of visiting, &c., incident to a change of ministry, I hope to be able to resume my.pen a little on my own account.
*-  -- *-  The court continues to be a busy one.  There
are levees every week, and we have attended all except the
last one.  The queen has likewise given a grand evening party
at the palace, to which I was invited.  It was really brilliant.
The magnificent suite of state apartments were thrown open,
admirably lighted up, and crowded by the rank, fashion, and
beauty of the country-the gentlemen all in uniform  or full
dress, and the ladies befeathered like so many birds of paradise.
I was presented to the queen, and received by her in a very
kind and complinentary manner.  Tlere had been a grand
dinner that; day at court, at which Mr. McLane was present.
It was just after the issuing of the order in council, which completed the arrangement between the two countries.  The king
was particularly attentive to him, drank wine twice with him,
and the second. time gave as a kind of toast to him, " Perpetual
friendship between my country and yours."  WVhen Mr. McLane
had his formal audience to present his new letter of credence,
the king received him quite in a hearty, sociable manner, and




444                   LIFE AND LETTERS                      [1830.
after expressing his sincere intention of cultivating the most
friendly relations with our country, took occasion to speak in
very handsome terms of General Jackson; and charged Mr.
McLane to communicate to the old general his personal good
will and his esteem for lis character and conduct.  Our diplomatic situation, therefore, at this court is as favorable and gratifying as we could desire, being treated with marked respect
and friendliness by the royal family, and by the various members of the administration, both of the old and new ministry;
and all this appears to be spontaneous; as, while we have fulfilled all the usual forms of mere civility and etiquette, we have
never courted any favor or attention, but have rather held ourselves in reserve, and let the advance be made from  the other
party.
I trust the general effect of our mission here will be to
place the relations of the two countries on a more amiable
footing, generally, and at the same time to establish freer intercourse personally for our diplomacy at this court, where it
was formerly received with coldness and reserve.  Nothing
can be more easy and frank than the manner with which at
present we are enabled to carry on our business with the ministers and at the public offices.  These considerations in some
measure reconcile me to the interruption this diplomatic episode
has made in my quiet literary life, and console me amidst the
official bustle, and the distractions of court pageantry and London life, which after all have no longer novelty or charm for
me, and are a grievous tax upon my spirits.
Dolgorouki has received orders' from  his court, regularly
attaching him to the embassy here, with a great augmentation
of his appointments.  He will therefore remain in London.
This is very gratifying to me, as he is a very interesting




BET. 47.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                     445
and valuable companion, and I believe is most sincerely and
strongly attached to me.  He has taken up  his quarters in
Maddox street, so that he is close at hand.  I find him a great
stimulator to me in literary matters.
I. dined a few  days since with David Wilkie, who  is
getting  on with  his picture  of John  Knox  preaching.  I
believe you have seen the study for it.  It will, I think, be'his
grandest production, and will distance all modern competition
in his art.  It is admirable to see the simplicity of the man,
surrounded by the splendid productions of his genius.  Theodore * called on him a few days since with a young American
about his own age, who had a great desire to see Willie.
Honest David laid by his pencil, and attended to the two lads
as if they had been the most important connoisseurs.  He
showed them all his paintings, sketches, drawings, &c.  Theodore came home quite in raptures.
Newton has three subjects in hand: One, Bassanio reading
the letter, and his wife anxiously watching him. The subject is
not striking, but he will make a beautiful picture of it by the
effect of coloring, dresses, &c.  Another is, Lear reclining in a
chair, with, the physician on one side, and Cordelia on the
other.  The figure of Lear, as merely sketched, is very grand.
I think the picture will be very effective.  The third is a pretty
little thing from  Pope's Rape of the Lock-Belinda contemplating herself in her toilet glass.  It will have the charm of
Newton's grace and color.
Leslie is employed on a small picture of Petruchio in the
scene with the tailor, &c.  I have not seen it.
A son of his brother Ebenezer, who had visited him at Madrid in
1828, and was now about to return to the United States.




446                 LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1830.
Kenney has made his appearance of late, more weazen
than ever.  He has a romantic drama in blank verse coming
out at Drury Lane, founded on a Spanish subject, and I believe taken originally from a Spanish play.  It has some striking scenes, but I think the: situations" are produced by rather
extravagant means.  Still John has a coarse palate and strong
stomach, and relishes powerful dishes.
Payne has also revisited the glimpses of the sun, and has
dined with me.  He is as fresh and fair as a rose, and appeared
to be in marvellous good spirits, notwithstanding that he was
as usualI up to the ears with negotiations for some half a dozen
pieces of various kinds.  He left a three act comedy with me
for perusal a long time since, which has really some very good
scenes, and is accepted at the theatre on condition that he will
reduce it to two acts, which, in fact, would be an improvement.
As I have heard nothing from Payne on-the subject for some
time past, I apprehend that he has forgotten this one of his
multifarious offspring.
I close the record of this year with the following
passage from  a letter to his brother Peter, who was
now suffering under a return of his headaches, which
had made him  sensitive to all the noises and interruptions of Paris, without being  able to  enjoy  its
amusements.  IIe had therefore retired to Havre, for
6 a little quiet life, under the wing of the worthy Tom
Tug," as Washington was fond of styling Peter's true
and kind-hearted friend, the American Consul Beasley.
" Give Tom  Tug a hearty embrace for me," is one of
his affectionate messages to Peter.




.iE. 47.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                44:7
The letter from which the extract is taken, is dated
December 21, 1830.  The volume is the Voyages of
the Companions of Columbus; a work to which he
had been prompted by Peter.
A  few days since I sent the last page of the volume of
Voyages to the printer, and have since received three notes of
hand from Murray, dated Dec. 17, at six, nine, and twelve
nmoiths, for ~175, making five hundred guineas, or ~525. I
have endorsed them over and remitted them to H. Van WVart,
with orders to pass them to your credit.  They will form a
fund, therefore, which you can draw against whenever you
please.




448                   LIFE AND LETTERS                      [1830.
CHAPTER XXVI.
VISITS BIRAINGHAM-VERPLANCK-PAULDING-SLIDELL'S YEAR IN SPAIN, AND
THE REVIEW IN THE LONDON QUARTERLY-BARGAIN WITH CAREY & LEA
FOR THE VOYAGES OF COLUMBUS-LETTER TO BREVOORT-A CHANGE IN THE
EMBASSY-THE AUTHOR CHARGE-LETTER TO LOUIS MCLANE-ARRIVAL OF
MR. VAN BUREN, THE NEW MINISTER-LETTER TO LOUIS MCLANE-RELIEVED
FROM THE LEGATION-LAST MEETING WITH SIR WALTER SCOTT-NEWTON'S
SECOND LIKENESS-LETTER TO MRS. PARIS-BARLBOROUGH HALL-HARDWICKE
CASTLE - NEWSTEAD ABBEY-DERANGEMENT OF LITERARY PLANS-REFORM
AND CHOLERA.
IN  the beginning  of this year, Mr. Irving  went to
his sister's at Birmingham, where  he remained
four or five weeks, hoping to do something " in the
way of composition," and whence he writes to Peter,
February 3:
It will grieve me to leave this most comfortable and delightful little nest, where one is surrounded by so many domestic enjoyments, with nothing from without to "molest one
or make one afraid."  I should have enjoyed my visit much
more, however, could I have turned it to advantage in a literary way.  I came down prepared for the purpose, with my
trunk half filled with manuscripts; but, though I had every
convenience and facility for literary occupation, I have been




ET. 47.]          OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  449
visited by one of the most inveterate fits of mental inertness
that I have ever experienced.  It is excessively provoking, as
I had counted upon this quiet recess to put all my literary
plans for the spring and summer in a state of forwardness, and
now they are thrown completely aback; but there is no helping these matters, any more than there is the winds and tides
when they set against one.  *  *  *
In a postscript he adds:
In a letter which I have just received from Verplanck, who
is reelected to Congress, he says: "I have a copyright bill
before Congress with which I have taken great pains.  It consolidates, enlarges, and explains our laws on that subject,
which are full of confusion and doubt.  It extends the term  to
twenty-eight years, with powers of renewal for a like term by
the author or his widow at the expiration.  I hope to get the
bill through before the 4th March puts an end to this Congress."
E. I. writes.me that James Paulding has just concluded a
work in two volumes, called The Dutchman's Fireside, for
which the Harpers have given him  $1,400.  I see by the
papers that James has likewise gained the prize offered by one
of the theatres for the best three act comedy.  It is called
The Lion of the West; his hero a rodomontading Congressman from the Western States.  It does not appear to be as
yet on the stage.
It had afterward  great success on the stage, witi
Hackett as Nimrod Wildfire.
On his return to London he writes to Ebenezer,
February 22:
VOL. II.-(29)




4:0                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1831.
I send a copy of Slidell's Year in Spain, which I corrected for the press, and got Murray to publish in a very creditable style.  It will give the lieutenant a complete launch in
literature.
Send the copy, and also the number of the Quarterly Review, to Mr. Slidell's father, with my kind regards.
The copy of the Quarterly, which he here requests
to be sent to Mr. Slidell's father, contained a Review
of the Year in Spain, which was written by himself,
and  no  doubt helped  the success of the work  in
England.
This review was given gratuitously to the Quarterly,
and with the explanatory article on the Conquest of
Granada before alluded to, constituted his only contributions to that periodical, of which he had before
written, when M/urray had offered him  100 guineas an
article: " It is so hostile to our country that I cannot
bear to lift my pen in its service."  The Review was
most distinguished for this hostility during the editorship of William Gifford, now dead.
[To Peter Iving.]
LONDON, March 1, 1831.
MY DEAR BROTHER:
*  *  *  I have been unwell, with a slight fever for four
or five day's past, but am once more abroad.  I fancy it was
partly bilious and partly brought on by the hurry, excitement,
and distraction of this London life, particularly at this season
and in the present times.  I had attended the queen's drawing




JET. 47.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   451
room, a dinner at the Duke of Somerset's, and a full dress ball
at the Duke of Devonshire's; so that I had to change my dress
four times in the course of the day, to racket about from post
to pillar, and did not get to bed until two o'clock.  The next
morning I woke with a pain in my back and limbs, and in the
course of the day was taken with chills, &c.  The attack, however, has been but slight, and would scarcely be worth mentioning, except that it is so rare a thing for me to be troubled
in this way.
I had a letter from E. I. lately.  He had made a bargain
with Carey and Lea of Philadelphia about the "Voyages;"
they are to give fifteen hundred dollars for the privilege of
printing three thousand copies, and he binds himself to allow
them three years to sell off the edition, though he trusts they
will sell it in less than two.  I observe they advertise it to be
published in one octavo volume.  I think the arrangement a
good one.  *  *  e  I believe I told you Murray's first edition of the abridgment of Columbus, of which he printed ten
thousand copies, is sold, and he is putting another edition to
press.  The "Companions " seem  to be very successful, and
what is a good sign, are favorites with tile publisher.
*  *  Kenney has been trying all the season to get a
tragedy performed at Drury Lane, but has been kept in suspense until he is as thin as an apothecary's spatula.  I had a
note from him a few days since, telling me he was to have a
few  "vagabonds" to dine with him  to-morrow, and begging
me to give him my company, as Macready was to be there and
my presence might be of service to him (Kenney).  If I feel
well enough I shall go.




452                  LIFE AND LETTERS                     [1881.
The following letter, addressed to Brevoort at Paris,
will help to fill up the picture of his London life.
LONDON, March 31, 1831
MIY DEAR BREVOORT:
I will not pretend to apologize to you for not having written to you for so long a time.   I am weary of apologizing on
this head, and by this time my friends must know the nature
of my life in this tremendous Babel, which leaves me no leisure
or quiet.  As long as I remain in London, I shall be worth
nothing either to my friends or to myself, and this I foresaw
and foretold when I was advised to come here.  However,
this like all things else will have its end.  *  e  *
I am just recovering from a four days' fit of illness-rather a
long spell for my regular constitution. I believe it was brought
on more by the excitement and the hurry, and harassing life I
lead here in this time of political, literary, and fashionable
tumult than by anything else.  The misfortune with me is,
that I embark in it with ill will, and worry myself by trying
to stem the current, which after all bears me away in spite of
every exertion.
I am  looking out daily for Jack Nicholson, who will no
doubt come charged to the very muzzle with all kinds of revolutions, conspiracies, brawls, and battles, having taken all the
belligerent towns of Belgium and Holland in his route.  I expect to see him rounder and more robustious than ever, having
all the affairs of the world under his belt.  What Jack will
have to relate when he returns to New York! I think, like
the innkeeper in Rabelais, he ought to invite all the quidnuncs of Wall street to a general meeting to see him burst.
We are in the beginning of an eventful week.  This even



AET. 47.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  453
ing will determine the fate of the present cabinet, which is in a
tottering condition, and we are looking daily for decisive news
from  Paris.  We must have tidings of moment, too, from
Poland, though I fear we shall have dismal news from  that
quarter.  However, the great cause of all the world will go on.
What a stirring moment it is to live in.  I never took such
intense interest in newspapers. It seems to me as if life were
breaking out anew with me, or that I were entering upon quite
a new and almost unknown career of existence, and I rejoice
to find my sensibilities, which were waning as to many objects
of past interest, reviving with all their freshness and vivacity
at the scenes and prospects opening around me. I trust, my
dear Brevoort, we shall both be spared to see a great part of
this grand though terrible drama that is about to be acted.
There will doubtless be scenes of horror and suffering, but
what splendid triumphs must take place over these vile systems
of falsehood in every relation of human affairs, that have been
woven over the human mind, and for so long a time have held
it down in despicable thraldom.
Do, when you have leisure, as leisure you surely must have
in abundance, write me a line, and do not stand upon the ceremony of my answering you regularly. If you could but know
how I am cut up to very bits in my time and how totally I am
destitute of leisure, you would not stand upon any ceremony
of the kind with me.
I received your letter by Mr., the gentleman who
brought the poem some time since.  There was a long letter,
too, from the authoress, which it was quite out of my power to
answer.  I left the poem with Murray, on my going out of
town, saying everything I could in its praise.  He wrote me
word that he had declined publishing it, as he did not think it




454                 LIFE AND LETTERS                 [1831.
calculated to advance either the author's interests or reputation.
I am continually applied to by writers to help their works into
the press.  Now there is no person less able to do so than I.
My only acquaintance among the publishers is Murray, who is
the most difficult being on earth to please. * * e
June 6, he writes to his brother Peter at Birmingham:
*  - "- Mr. McLane has received permission to return
home, and an invitation to a seat in the cabinet.  The former
he avails- himself of immediately, and will sail from this port
either on the 22d inst. or on the 1st July, most probably the
latter.  The seat in the cabinet will be a matter of further consideration.  I remain here as chcrge'ccaffaires; though it is
expressly stated that I remain on secretary's p2ay. I trust,
however, another minister will be appointed with as little
delay as possible, so that I shall be relieved by autumn at
farthest.   *
The following letter is addressed to Mr. McLane,
who had arrived in the United States from  London,
early in August, and now filled the place of Secretary
of the Treasury, made vacant by the recent dissolution of General Jackson's cabinet; to which the resignation  of Mr. Van  Buren in April, as Secretary
of State, had led the way.  Mr. Van 1Buren was now
coming out to London to succeed Ar. McLane as
American Minister to the Court of St. James; Mr.
Irving in the interim  acting as charge.




lET. 48.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   455
[To Louis McLane.]
LONDON, Aug. 30, 1831.
MY DEAR SIR:
I was greatly gratified and obliged by your letter of July
31, and rejoiced to find that you were all once more safely
landed on our own shores.  I hope and trust that everything
will go prosperously with you, and that your situation at
Washington will prove as happy to yourself as I am  sure it
will be advantageous to the country.  I am sick to very loathing of the correspondences with which our papers have been
filled for some time past, and my only consolation is, that the
European papers are so taken up with their own concerns, and
the public mind here se bewildered with reform, revolution,
and cholera llorbus, that there is no space or leisure for comments upon our follies.  Yet it is grievous to think that we
should so shamefully use the advantages which all the rest of
the world are striving at the cost of heart's blood to obtain.  I
look forward for better things from  the new cabinet, and trust
that it will not suffer private feuds and private interests to take
up the time that should be devoted to the great questions and
concerns of the nation.  Affairs are going on here "as lit
pleases God," that is to say, very little to the satisfaction of
man.  The whigs have been so long out of harness that they
do not understand well how to draw  together, and the great
reform omnibus moves but heavily, and has great difficulty in
surmounting the impediments continually put in its way. Lord
John is almost knocked up by the fatigues and perplexities he
has undergone; not understanding very clearly, it is insinuated, the nature of the mighty egg he has been employed to
hatch, and being worn out by being obliged to sit so long upon
the nest.  The anti-reformers swear that the egg is already




456                  LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1831.
addled, and they begin to crow with some heart on the supposition. There is certainly some misgiving and anxiety among
the conductors of the measure, and a very general discontent
and impatience throughout the country. Still I trust the measure will ultimately prevail.
I will deliver your message to Lord Holland when I see
him.  He has asked most kindly after you whenever I have
met with him; indeed you have reason to be highly gratified
with the impression you have left behind you generally.  It is
exactly such a one as a man of honorable ambition and kind
feelings should covet; a mixture of the highest esteem  and
respect with the most cordial good will.  *  *  *
I trust the government will perfectly understand that in declining to continue here as secretary, I am influenced by no
feeling of petty pride or mistaken etiquette. I have no idea of
any derogation in returning from a casual and transient elevation as charge d'affcares to the duties of the secretaryship, and
should have made a point of discountenancing such false punctilio by my example, did not other considerations, of which you
are well aware, induce me to desire for the present a total
emancipation from official duties.
I am looking forward with great pleasure to the arrival of
Mr. Van Buren, and to my release from London and its harassing life, as soon as I shall have put him up to the routine
of affairs and the usages of the town. I shall then turn my
attention to my own private affairs, and make preparation for
my return to the United States; but I begin to fear I shall
not be able to arrange them so as to return before next year.




.ET. 48.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING. 
[To Louis MlcLane.]
LONDON, Sept. 14, 1881.
MY DEAR SIR:
Mr. Van Buren arrived in town last evening and put up at
Thomas's, where I had engaged apartments for him.  I have
not yet seen him, as I dined last evening at the palace and did
not get away until late. After dinner, when we had withdrawn
to the grand saloon, I had a long and very interesting and satisfactory conversation with the king, who, I should observe, has
always treated me with marked attention ever since I have had
charge of the legation. In the course of this conversation he
alluded to Lord Palmerston who -was present, and said he believed we found him a very pleasant man to transact business
with. I assented to the observation fully, but added that we
might testify in the same way to the members of his majesty's
government generally.  And I took this occasion to speak in
the strongest manner of the sense entertained by you and myself of the prompt, frank, and friendly treatment we had experienced both in our official and private intercourse since we
had resided at this court; of the great facilities it had given
you in your negotiations, and the favorable effect it had produced in the relations between the two countries.  *  
You will perceive that the storm of war which we thought
ready to burst over Europe early in the spring, still keeps
back.  It is whimsical that all this intestine turmoil and commotion, which has so long been rumbling in the bowels of
Europe, should end in a windy explosion in the Low Countries.
It is quite a subject for a caricature. All Europe armed to
the teeth and drawn out in battle array to witness the sham
fight between the vaporing Belgian and pugnacious Dutchman.
Vor. IT.-20




458                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1831.
I have just seen Mr. Van Buren, and do not wonder you
should all be so fond of him. His manners are most amiable
and ingratiating, and I have no doubt he will become a favorite at this court, and will continue those amicable relations you
have so advantageously established.
I am going out with him to put him in the routine of the
town.  Should Mrs. McLane and Rebecca be with you, I beg
you to remember me to them most affectionately, as well as to
all the other members of the family, ever most especially singling out my dear, darling little Sally.  I am, my dear sir,
Yours ever most truly,
WASHINGTON IRVING.
On the 20th of September, Mr. Irving retired frorm
the legation, and two days after he informs his brother
Ebenezer that he should set off in a few  days with
Peter for Birmingham, where be should occupy himself diligently in preparing some writings for the
press, and that he should not be able to return home
till next year.
On the 28th of September, two days before his
departure for Birmingham, Scott arrived in London
on his way to Italy, and Lockhart,.thinking he would
enjoy the society of a friend, sent for Mr. Irving to
dine with him.  It was just after the fatigue of travel,
and though Scott rallied a little afterwards, and made
a better appearance; in this his final interview witlh
Mlr. Irving, he showed sadly the eclipse of his powers.
It was a family dinner, Lockhart and wife;'Anne Scott,
himself and Scott, being all.  Scott was seated when




.ET. 48.]      OF WASHINGTON IRVING.              459
he entered; and as he approached him and took him
by the hand, " Ah! my dear fellow," said he, " time
has dealt lightly with yon since last we met."  At dinner, amid the conversation of the others, his mind
would occasionally gleam up, and he would strike in
with some story in his old way; but the light would soon
die out, and his head would sink, and his countenance
fall as he saw that he had failed in giving point to what
he was telling.  The others would resume, and attempt
to divert attention by talking of matters in which he
might not be disposed to join.  "How different," said
Mr. Irving in relating this mournful experience, " from
the time I last dined with him, when Scott was the
life of the company, all hanging on his lips; every
body making way for his anecdote or story."  After
dinner the ladies went up stairs, and Lockhart said
to his guest, "Irving, give Scott your arm."  As
the latter approached, and Scott took his arm, while
he grasped his cane with the other hand; " Ahi!" said
he, " the times are changed, my good fellow, since we
went over the Eilclon hills together.  It is all nonsense
to tell a man that his mind is not affected, when his
body is in this state."
This was his last meeting with Scott, that noble
spirit in  whom  he had  so much  delighted, and
who, in his estimation, was only second to Shakespeare. Lockhart, in the Memoirs of his Life, errs in
saying that Mr. Irving saw him  frequently at this
time, for though Scott remained in London for several




460                 LIFE AND LETTERS                   [1831.
weeks, Irving left the second day after this interview for an absence of more than a month, which was
divided  between  Birmingham, Sheffield, and  Barlborough Hall.
From  Sheffield, where he was on  a visit to  his
nephew, Irving Van Wart, a temporary resident of
the place, he addressed a letter to his sister, Mrs. Paris,
dated October 14, from  which  it will be seen that
Newton had embarked for his native country, carrying
with him a likeness for which Mr. Irving had recently
been sitting, and which he pronounces the best that had
ever been taken of him.  " My friend Newton," is his
language, " who sailed from  London a few days since,
took with him  a small portrait of me, for which I had
sat at your request.  It is the most accurate likeness
that has ever been taken of me." *
A fortnight later, Mr. Irving addressed to the same
sister  the  following  account of some carious and
interesting visits and excursions.
BARLBOROUGII HALL, Oct. 28, 1831.
MY DEAR SISTER:;' -  I left Sheffield about five days since to pay a
long-promised visit to the owner of this mansion, which is in
Derbyshire, about twelve miles from Sheffield. It is an old
hall, built in the time of Queen Elizabeth, and the owner declares it is the original of Bracebridge Hall, for which in truth
* This second likeness of Newton's, taken about nine years after the
first for his friend Brevoort, is now the property of his niece, Mrs. Storrow,
a daughter of the sister to whom it was sent.




iET. 48.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  461
it might have stood for a model. It is in the midst of a beautiful country, and stands in the centre of one of those princely
domains which render English country gentlemen little sovereigns.
I am writing in my bedchamber, one of the most delicious
old panelled rooms, with stone-shafted windows, ancient portraits, silk curtains of old-fashioned needlework by some of the
family dames of the olden time.  Mine host, the Rev. C. R.
Reaston Rodes, is a man of great wealth and greater eccentricity; a kind of wet parson, if I may borrow that phrase from
the Quakers; as he is a complete bon-vivant, hunts, shoots,
races, and keeps a kind of open house. His neighbors say that
hospitality is his greatest vice. With all this he is an excellent
scholar, something of a poet, and a most kind, generous, and
warm-hearted man.  He has restored the old mansion in the
ancient style; keeps up the old usages, particularly the ceremonials of Christmas, and, notwithstanding his extreme buoyancy of spirit and bustle of existence, manages all his affairs
and conducts his whole establishment with admirable system.
Such a character and such a mansion, as you may easily suppose, furnish me much food for amusing speculation.
My worthy host has taken me all about the neighboring
country to see the curious old edifices with which it abounds.
We were yesterday at Hardwick Castle, an antiquated pile belonging to the Duke of Devonshire, but which he never inhabits except on a casual visit of a day at a time.  The castle
is maintained in its old style, with the  ancient furniture,
tapestry, &c.  There are state apartments which Queen Elizabeth once occupied in one of her progresses through the kingdom, and there is another apartment in which poor Mary, Queen
of Scots, was once confined.  The bed and all the furniture re



462                  LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1831.
main as in her time.  There is an immense picture gallery,
with the portraits of all the Cavendishes and their connections,
and of various of the British monarchs.  This curious old pile
stands on the brow-of a hill with a lordly park about it, and
commanding a wide and beautiful prospect.
The duke's agent, iTr. Ashby of Ashby Hall, was passing
a few days at the castle collecting the rents of the estate.  He
was absent at the time of our visit, but having been informed
of'it beforehand, he had ordered a lunch to be prepared for
us in one of the huge chambers of the old castle. His daughter,
a young lady of about eighteen or nineteen, did the honors
of the castle, and received us in the most charming manner.
I cannot express to you, my dear sister, my emotions when
I beheld in this charming little creature, almost a counterpart
of what I recollect you to have been at her age.  The same
figure, the same height, the same or nearly the same features,
the same color and expression of eyes, the same carriage, and
almost the same voice. The effect was so strong upon me, and
increased so much as I gazed upon her, that I had to turn
off to a window to conceal my agitation.  *  * *
Oct. 30th.  Since I wrote the above I have made an excursion with Mr. Rodes to Newstead Abbey, once the seat
of Lord Byron, which is about seventeen miles from this.  It
is now in the possession of a Colonel Wildman, who was once
school mate of Lord Byron's at Harrow, and who has an
enthusiastic veneration for the bard.  He is a gentleman of
immense fortune, and is expending enormous sums in putting
the old abbey in complete repair. It is a most ancient, curious,
and beautiful pile, of great extent and intricacy; and when
restored will be one of the finest specimens of the mingled
conventual and baronial buildings in England.  Everything




JET. 48.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   463
relative to Lord Byron is preserved with the most scrupulous
care.  The bedroom  he occupied, with all its furniture as it
stood, many of his books; his boxing gloves, &c., &c.
Tlhie monument erected by him  to the memory of his
favorite Newfoundland dog, Boatswain, still stands in the
garden; and a descendant of Boatswain, a huge cog which
had accompanied Lord Byron to Greece, and returned with
his dead body to England, now  strolls about the abbey, and
is a cherished favorite of Colonel Wildman.  Our visit was a
most interesting one, and was rendered still more agreeable
by the polite attentions of Colonel WVildman, who accompanied
us all over the abbey, and explained everything to us. At
parting. he invited me to pass some days with him whenever
I should have an interval of leisure, and expressed a wish to
consult with me about various inscriptions he proposed to
put up in different parts of the edifice.  I had nearly omitted
one little memento of poor Byron, that peculiarly touched me.
On the bark of an elm, in a grove of the abbey garden, are
engraved the names of himself and his sister:  ByronAugusta.  These were cut by himself on his last visit to the
abbey, on the day when he sold and transferred it to another.
His sister was with him  at the time, and they took a melancholy farewell stroll through this grove.  She since pointed
out the inscription, and mentioned the particulars to Colonel
Wildman.
I am  now  on the point of taking leave of Barlborough
Hall, and of my most hospitable host and his charming wife,
whom I ought to have mentioned more particularly.  I have
promised, should I be in England, to pass the Christmas holidays with them.
London, Nov. 5th-I have just time to add a line in con



Z464                 LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1831.
elusion to this letter.  I arrived in London about four days
since, where I shall pass a little time, and then pay a visit
or two in different parts of the country.  I am  at this time
excessively busy in correcting  and finishing  some of my
writings, and getting my literary matters in order, after the
long interval of busy life that has interrupted them.
His literary plans, however, were destined to further
derangement.   He writes  to  Peter  the  next  day
(Nov. 6):
The restlessness and uncertainty in which I have been
kept, have disordered my mind and feelings too much for
imaginative writing, and I now  doubt whether I could get
the Alhambra ready in time for Christmas.  -  *  The
present state of things here completely discourages all idea
of publication of any kind.  There is no knowing who among
the booksellers is safe. Those who have published most are
worst off, for in this time of public excitement nobody reads
books or buys them.  There is the double risk of a work falling
dead from the press, and of the bookseller failing before the
payment falls due. Those publishers who are safe, are wary of
publishing until the present crisis is past, lest they should be
only filling their ledgers with bad debts.  You have no idea of
the gloom  that hangs over "the trade," and will continue to
do so until reform and cholera have passed by.




AT. 48.1           OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                      465
CHAPTER XXVII.
LETTER FROM NEWSTEAD ABBEY-JOURNEYINGS WITH IMR. VAN BUREN-LETTER
TO PIERRE PARIS IRVING-ARRANGEMENTS FOR THE PUBLICATION OF THE
ALHAMBRA-LETTER FROM WILLIAM C. BRYANT, TRANSMITTING VOLUME OF
HIS POEMS FOR ENGLISH PUBLICATION-LETTER FROM GULIAN C. VERPLANCK
-DEDICATORY EPISTLE TO SAMUEL ROGERS-REJECTION OF MR. VAN BUREN
AS MINISTER-LETTER TO PETER IRVING-MILLS-MATHEWS -LESLIE-PETER
POWELL-BARGAIN WITH COLBURN & BENTLEY FOR THE ALIIAMBRA-EMBARKATION-LANDS AT NEW YORK-RECEPTION-PUBLIC DINNER-SPEECH.
T    HE following letter finds Mr. Irving again at " the
romantic old pile" of Newstead, where he tells
his brother Peter, he is lodged in Lord Byron's room
and bed, and only vexed " that he cannot catch some
inspiration froml  the place."
[To ilM.rs. Paris.]
NEWSTEAD ABBEY, Jan. 20, 1832.
MY DEAR SISTER:
Upwards of a month since I left London with Mr. Van
Buren and his son, on a tour to show them  some interesting
places in the interior, and to give them  an idea of English
country life, and the festivities of an old-fashioned English
Christmas.'Ve posted in an open carriage, as the weather
was uncommonly mild and beautiful for the season.  Our first
stopping place was Oxford, to visit the noble collegiate buildVOL. II. —20*       (30)




466                  LIFE AND LETTERS                   [1832.
ings; thence we went to Blenheim, and visited the seat of the
Duke of Marlborough, one of the finest palaces in England.
We next passed a night and part of the next day at Stratfordon-Avon, visiting the house where Shakespeare was born and
the church where he lies buried.  VWe were quartered at the
little inn of the Red Horse, where I found the same obliging
little landlady that kept it at the time of the visit recorded in
the Sketch Book.  You cannot imagine what a fuss the little
woman made when she found out who I was.  She showed
me the room I had occupied, in which she had hung up my
engraved likeness, and she produced a poker which was locked
up in the archives of her house, on which she had caused to be
engraved, "Geoffrey Crayon's Sceptre."  From Stratford we
went to Warwick Castle, Kenilworth, and then to Birmingham, where we passed a part of three cays, dining at Van
Vart's; continuing our tour we visited Lichfield and its beautiful cathedral, Derby, Nottingham, Newstead Abbey, Hardwick Castle, &c., &c., and finally arrived on Christmas eve. at
Barlborough Hall,' where we had engaged to remain during
the holidays.  Here, then, we passed a fortnight, during which
the old hall was a complete scene of old English hospitality.
Many of the ancient games and customs, obsolete in other parts
of England, are still maintained in that part of the country,
and are encouraged by Mr. Rodes.  ATe accordingly had mummers, and morris dancers, and glee singers from the neighboring villages; and great feasting, with the boar's head crowned
with holly; the wassail bowl, the yule clog, snap dragon, &c.,
&c.  There was dancing by night in the grand tapestried
apartments, and dancing in the servants' hall, and all kinds of.merriment.  The whole was to have wound up by a grand
fancy ball on Twelfth Night to which all the gentry of the




ET. 48.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  467
neighborhood were invited, when Mr. Rodes received news of
the death of a relative, which put an end to the festivities.
*  *  *  After leaving the hospitable mansion of Mr.
Rodes we came to Newstead Abbey; on an invitation from Col.
WVildman, the present proprietor. Mr. Van Buren and his son
remained but a couple of days, but I was easily prevailed upon
to prolong my visit, and have now been here about a fortnight;
and never has time passed away more delightfully.  I have
found Col. Wildman a most estimable man, warm-hearted, generous, and amiable, and his wife charming both in character
and person. The abbey I have already mentioned to you in a
former letter as being the ancestral mansion of Lord Byron,
and mentioned frequently in his writings. I occupy his room,
and the very bed in which he slept. The edifice is a fine mixture of the convent and the palace, being an ancient abbey of
friars granted by Henry VIII. to the Byron family. At one
end is the ruin of the abbey church; the Gothic front still standing in fine preservation and overrun with ivy.  My room immediately adjoins it, and hard by is a dark grove filled with
rooks, who are continually wheeling and cawing about the
building.  What was once the interior of the church is now a
grassy lawn with gravel walks, and where the high altar stood,
is the monument erected by Lord Byron to his dog, in which
he intended his own body should be deposited.  The interior
of the abbey is a complete labyrinth.  There are the old monkish cloisters, dim and damp, surrounding a square, in the centre
of which is a grotesque Gothic fountain.  Then there are long
corridors hung with portraits, and set out with figures in armor,
that look like spectres.  There are ancient state apartments
that have been occupied by some of the British sovereigns in
their progresses, and which still bear their names.  These have




468                  LIFE AND LETTERS                     [1832.
been restored by Col. Wildman with great taste, and are hung
with ancient tapestry, and quaintly furnished.  There are large
halls, also, some splendidly restored, others undergoing repairs;
with long vaulted chambers that Iave- served for refectories
and dormitories to the monks in old times.  Behind the edifice
is the ancient abbey garden, with great terraced walks, ballustrades, fish ponds, formal flower plots, &c., all kept up in admirable style, and suiting the venerable appearance of the building.  You may easily imagine the charms of such a residence
connected with the poetical associations with the memory of
Lord Byron.  The solemn and monastic look of many parts of
the edifice, also, has a most mysterious land romantic effect, and
has given rise to many superstitious fables among the servants
and the neighboring peasantry.  They have a story of a friar
in black who haunts the cloisters. and is said to have been seen
by Lord Byron.  He certainly alludes to him  in his poems.
Then there is a female in white, who appeared in the bedroom
of a young lady, a cousin of Lord Byron, coming through the
wall on one side of the room, and going into the wall on the
other side.  Besides these there is " Sir John Byron, the little,
with the great beard," the first proprietor of the abbey, whose
portrait in black hangs up in the drawing room.  He has been
seen by a young lady visitor, sitting by the fireplace of one of
the state apartments reading out of a great book.  I could
mention other stories of the kind, but these are sufficient to
show you that this old building is more than usually favored
by ghosts.
We are here in the centre of Robin Hood's country, what
once was merry Sherwood forest, though now it is an open
country.  There are some tracts of the forest, however, remaining in ancient wildness, with immense oaks several hundred




JET. 48.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                   469
years old, mostly shattered and hollow, and inhabited by jackdaws. I have rode through the green glades of these monumental forests, and pictured to myself Robin Hood and all his
renowned band of outlaws; and I have visited many points of
the neigborhood which still bear traces of him, such as Robin
Hood's chair, Robin Hood's stable, his well, &c., &c., and I
have the line of Robin Hood's hills in view from the windows
of my apartment.  I am thus in the midst of a poetical region.
For several days past the Duke of Sussex (brother to the
king) has been on a visit at the abbey.  His presence has
caused a succession of dinners and f6tes, which has drawn to
the abbey the most agreeable company of the neighborhood,
and given me an opportunity of seeing all the " flowers of the
forest."  It has been delightful to see the old cloisters and the
terraced walks of the garden enlivened by beautiful groups of
ladies, and to hear the balls resounding in the evening with the
harp and piano.  The Duke of Sussex is a most amiable man,
and puts every one at ease by his sociable and good-humored
manner.  I had frequently seen him at court and met him at
formal diplomatic dinners, on which occasions lie had always
been extremely civil in  lis conduct toward me; but in thus
meeting him in the country I experienced a more familiar cordiality.
I shall remain here a few days longer and then return to
London, to attend to my literary affairs, which from  various
circumstances have been a little retarded.  *  *  Give my
love to all your household.  Ever most affectionately your
brother,                                             W. 1.
On returning from  the home of Byron to London,
he addressed the following letter to his nephew, Pierre




470                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  L1832.
Paris Irving.   The latter had just written  to  him
respecting the manuscript of a second production of
the author of the Year in Spain, which had been forwarded to him, with  a view  to its publication by
Murray.   It was  entitled  Spain  Revisited..Mr.
Irving  had already, as we have seen, procured  the
publication of the first named work, and written a
review of it for the Quarterly.
[To Pierre Paris Irving.]
LONDON, Feb. 6,1832.
MY DEAR PIERRE:
I forwarded to your father by the last Liverpool packet
ship a portion of a work E which I am preparing for the press,
and had intended to send more by the present occasion; but I
have been a little out of order and unable to get it ready, so
must defer sending it until the next packet. I presume this
will occasion no loss of time, as he will hardly have made the
necessary arrangements for the publication of the work.  I
have as yet made no bargain with any bookseller here, nor
shall I until my manuscript is altogether complete.  Indeed,
the book trade is in such a deplorable state that I hardly know
where to turn to; some are disabled and all disheartened.
There is scarce any demand for new works, such is the distraction of the public mind with reform, cholera, and continental
revolutions.
I wrote to Mr. Slidell some time since, acknowledging the
receipt of his son's manuscript, and explaining the difficulties
under which I lay, as to executing his wishes concerning it.
I will thank you, however, to call on him and tell him how the
* The Alhambra.




ET. 48.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 4:1
case stands.  Had the MS. been sent to me early last year,
when I wrote for it, I might have had leisure to prepare it for
the press, and an opportunity to make a good bargain for it.
But when it arrived, every moment and mood that I could
devote to literature was completely engrossed, and has ever
since been engrossed in working at my own manuscripts which
had long lain neglected, and which I am toiling and' struggling
to finish that I may return home.  Besides thus leaving no
leisure to attend to the correcting of the manuscripts of Mr.
Slidell, there is no longer a favorable opening for the publication
of the work.
" *       i *  I have received recently a volume of poetry
from Mr. Bryant, in which are many things really exquisite,
yet I despair of finding a bookseller that will offer anything forit, or that will even publish it for his own benefit, such is the
stagnation of the literary market.  When reform and cholera
have passed away, and the public mind becomes a little tranquil, there will doubtless be a revival, but until then authors,
like the manufacturers, must suffer.  * 
It was a few days before the date of the preceding
letter, which gives such a deplorable account of the
literary market, and  while Mr. Irving was still at
S'ewstead, that he received the following letter from
the American  poet, mentioned  at the close of the
extract, William Cullen Bryant, now one of the throned
names of modern literature, who, having achieved a
well-earned celebrity in his own country, was disposed
to try what welcome he was likely to meet at the
hands of a kindred nation.




472                 LIFE AND LETTERS                   [1832.
[William Cullen Bryant to Washington Irving.]
NEW YORK, Dec. 29, 1831.
SIR 
I have put to press in this city a duodecimo volume of 240
pages, comprising all my poems which I thought worth printing, most of which have already appeared.  Several of them I
believe you have seen, and of some, if I am rightly informed,
you have been pleased to express a favorable opinion.  Before
publishing the work here, I have sent a copy of it to Murray,
the London bookseller, by whom I am desirous that it should
be published in England. I have taken the liberty, which I
hope you will pardon a countryman of yours, who relies on the
known kindness of your disposition to plead his excuse, of referring him to you.  As it is not altogether impossible that the
work might be republished in England, if I did not offer it
myself, I could wish that it might be published by a respectable
bookseller in a respectable manner.
I have written to Mr. Verplanck, desiring him to give me
a letter to you on the subject; but as the packet which takes
out my book will sail before I can receive an answer, I have
presumed so far on-your goodness as to make the application
myself.  May I ask of you the favor to write to Mr. Murray
on the subject as soon as you receive this? In my letter to
him I have said nothing of the terms, which of course will depend upon circumstances which I may not know, or of which
I cannot judge.  I should be glad to receive something for
the work, but if he does not think it worth his while to give
anything, I had rather that he should take it for nothing, than
that it should not be published by a respectable bookseller.
I must again beg you to excuse the freedom I have taken.
I have no personal acquaintance in England, whom I could ask




iET. 48.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 473
to do what I have ventured to request of you; and I know of
no person to whom I could prefer the request with greater certainty that it will be kindly entertained. I am, sir,
With sentiments of the highest respect,
Your obedient humble servant,
WILLIAM C. BRYANT.
P. S.  I have taken the liberty to accompany this letter
with a copy of the work.
The letter from Verplanck which follows, probably
reached Mr. Irving at the same time with the foregoing.
[Gulian C. Verpolanck to cWashington Irving.]
WASHINGTON, Dec. 31, 1831.
DEAR IRVING:
My friend Bryant, some of whose poetry I know you have
read and admired, has been correcting, collecting, and is about
to publish a volume of his poems in New York.  I need not
praise them to you.  A letter received from him this morning
informs me that he has sent a copy of them  to Murray, and
has referred him to you as to the character of the work.  I
believe that I am answerable myself for this libertyj though he
asks me " to inform him (you) of the liberty he has taken."
His object is an honorable publication in Europe, though I
take it for granted that profit would be acceptable, which I am
happy to say is not necessary. You will receive a copy of the
book, which I have not yet seen in the present shape; but his
"Lines to the Past," "Lament of Romero," " Southern Wind,"
and everything painting our own scenery, I am sure can be
eclipsed by nothing of our own day; the first I have thought
by nothing in the language.




474                LIFE AND LETTERS                 [1832.
Few but would agree with Verplanck in this eulogy
of Bryant's " Lines to the Past."  MIr. Irving immediately addressed Mlurray on the subject, as will appear
from  the date of the following reply from  his son,
which I find among his papers.
[To Washington Irving.]
ALBEMARLE STREET, January 30.
MY DEAR SIR:
Mr. Bryant's volume of poems has not yet made its appearance, though I believe it is on its way. Knowing as I do
my father's antipathy to everything in the shape of poetry of
the present day, I doubt whether he will be disposed to publish
it. If so, I will forward the volume to you when it comes to
hand.                      Very truly yours,
J. MURRAY.
Murray, whose affairs were very much embarrassed
at this time, did not incline to any poetical venture.
Mr. Irving accordingly took the poems to Mr. Andrews, a fashionable bookseller, who agreed to publish
them on condition that he [Mr. Irving] would edit them,
and write a dedication, to which he cheerfully consented.
But the literary market, as we have seen, was at low
water at this time, in consequence of the prevalence
of reform  and cholera, and while the poems were
passing  through  the  press, the  publisher became
alarmed for the effect of an offensive line in the poem
of " Marion's Men,"
And the British soldier trembles
When Marion's name is heard



ET. 48.]         OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 475
fearing that it would prejudice the sale of the work
with the English public, and bring him in a loser..In deference to his scruples, though giving little
weight to them  himself, Mr. Irving thoughtlessly consented to expunge the obnoxious adjective British, so
as to make the line read
And the foeman trembles in his campIt was an act done in a spirit of kindness to bookseller
and author, without pausing to inquire whether he
had authority to make the change without the sanction
of the latter, and though it never formed a ground of
complaint by Mr. Bryant, it will be seen hereafter
that Mr. Irving was assailed for the alteration  by
another, and replied, as Bryant himself has remarked,
with " mingled spirit and dignity."  I now give, as a
part of the history of this transaction, Mr. Irving's
Letter of Dedication to Rogers, prefixed to the Poems,
with that poet's and Bryant's rejoinders.
[To Samuel Rogers, Esq.]
MY DEAR SIR:
During an intimacy of some years' standing I have uniformly remarked a liberal interest on your part in the rising
character and fortunes of my country, and a kind disposition to
promote the success of American talent, whether engaged in
literature or the arts.  I am induced, therefore, as a tribute of
gratitude, as well as a general testimonial of respect and friendship, to lay before you the present volume, in which, for the
first time, are collected together the fugitive productions of one




476                  LIFE AND LETTERS                   [1832.
of our living poets, whose writings are deservedly popular
throughout the United States.
Many of these poems have appeared at various times in
periodical publications; and some of them, I am  aware, have
met your eye and received the stamp of your approbation.
They could scarcely fail to do so, characterized as they are by
a purity of moral, an elevation and refinement of thought, and
a terseness and elegance of diction, congenial to the bent of
your own genius and to your cultivated taste. They appear to
me to belong to the best school of English poetry, and to be
entitled to rank among the highest of their class.
The British public has already expressed its delight at the
graphic descriptions of American scenery and wild woodland
characters contained in the works of our national novelist,
Cooper.  The same keen eye and fresh feeling for nature, the
same indigenous style of thinking and local peculiarity of imagery, which give such novelty and interest to the pages of that
gifted writer, will be found to characterize this volume, condensed into a narrower compass and sublimated into poetry.
The descriptive writings of Mr. Bryant are essentially
American.  They transport us into the depths of the solemn
primeval forest, to the shores of the lonely lake, the banks of
the wild, nameless stream, or the brow  of the rocky upland,
rising like a promontory from amidst a wide ocean of foliage;
while they shed around us the glories of a climate, fierce in its
extremes, but splendid in all its vicissitudes.  His close observation of the phenomena of nature and the graphic felicity of
his details, prevent his descriptions from ever becoming general
and commonplace; while lie has the gift of shedding over them
a pensive grace that blends'them  all into harmony, and of
clothing them with moral associations that make them speak to




JET. 48.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 477
the heart. Neither, I am convinced, will it be the least of his
merits in your eyes, that his writings are imbued with the independent spirit and buoyant aspirations incident to a youthful,
a free, and a rising country.
It is not my intention, however, to enter into any critical
comments on these poems, but merely to introduce them,
through your sanction, to the British public.  They must then
depend for success on their own merits; though I cannot help
flattering myself that they will be received as pure gems,
which, though produced in a foreign clime, are worthy of being
carefully preserved in the common treasury of the language. I
am, my dear sir,         Ever most faithfully yours,
WASHINGTON IRVING.
LONDON, March, 1832.
MY DEAR IRVING:
I wish I could thank you as I ought, but that is impossible.
If there are some feelings which make men eloquent, mine are
not just now of that class. To have been mentioned by you
with regard on any occasion, I should always have considered
as a good fortune. WThat then must I have felt, when I read
what you have written?  If I was a vain man before, I am
now in danger of becoming a proud one; and yet I can truly
say that never in my life was I made more conscious of my unworthiness than you have made me by your praise.
Believe me to be
Your very grateful and very sincere friend,
SAMUEL ROGERS.
MARCH 6, 1882.
NEW YORK, April 24, 1832.
MY DEAR SIR:
I have received a copy of the London edition of my poems
forwarded by you. I find it difficult to express the sense I en



478                LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1832.
tertain of the obligation you have laid me under, by doing so
much more for me in this matter than I could have ventured,
under any circumstances, to expect. Had your kindness been
limited to procuring the publication of the work, I should still
have esteemed the favor worthy of my particular acknowledgment; but by giving it the sanction of your name, and presenting it to the British public with a recommendation so
powerful as yours, on both sides of the Atlantic, I feel that you
have done me anl honor in the eyes of my countrymen, and of
the world.
It is said that you intend shortly to visit this country.
Your return to your native land will be welcomed with enthusiasm, and I shall be most happy to make my acknowledgments
in person.            I am, sir, very sincerely yours,
WM. C. BRYANT.
lMr. Irving was crossing the ocean on his way home
at the date of the foregoing letter, which was intended
to reach him in Europe.  As soon as Bryant heard of
his return, he addressed him this second letter of acknowledgment, which was the first received:
PHILADELPIIIA, May 22, 1S82.
MY DEAR SIR:
I wrote to you some time since, to express my thanks for
the kind interest you have taken in the publication of my book
in England, but perceiving your name in a morning paper
among those of the passengers in the last Havre packet, I conclude that my letter has not reached you. I take this opportunity, therefore, of doing what my absence from New York
will not permit me to do at present in person, namely, to say




JET. 48.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                 479
how exceedingly I am obliged to you for having done so much
more for my book than I was entitled, under any circumstances,
to expect. I was not vain enough to hope that you would give
it to the British public with the sanction of your name, or take
upon yourself in any degree the responsibility of its merit. To
your having done so, I ascribe the favorable reception, for such
it is, so far as I am able to judge, which it has met with in
Great Britain, as well as much of the kindness with which it is
regarded in this country.
I am, sir, very gratefully and truly yours,
W. C. BRYANT.
Having anticipated a little to give the foregoing
letters, I must now go back to a period just preceding
the London publication of the poems.
February 14th, Washington writes to his brother
Ebenezer from London:
It is a deplorable time for publishing in England: reform
and cholera! The latter has just made its appearance about
the lower skirts of the city.  The panic about it, however, has
in a great measure subsided. I feel no apprehension of it, and
even if it spreads shall not leave town until all my literary arrangements are complete.
Two days later he writes to Peter:
You will perceive, by the papers, that there are repeated
cases of the cholera about the skirts of London.  Never did a
nation take more pains to put itself into a panic and a scrape
than this. I doubt very much whether these cases are anything




480                LIFE AND LETTERS                 [1832.
worse than what they have almost every year, and certainly
the experience of three or four months during which this cholera has been raging in various parts of the island shows it to be
one of the most moderate epidemics that ever laid a country
desolate.
Mr. Irving was, on all occasions of peril or panic,
the reverse of an alarmist.
The letter which follows bears date on the sixth
of March, and will show, among other matters of
interest, how Mr. Irving regarded the Senate's refusal
to confirm  the nomination of Mr. Van Buren as Minister to England.  The pretext for this rejection, it
may be remembered, was found in a passage of that
gentleman's instructions when Secretary of State, to
Mr. McLane, respecting  his negotiations with  the
English Ministry for the reopening of the trade with
the British West Indies; a privilege which had been
forfeited in former administrations, and which was
restored under the Presidency of General Jackson.
Webster and Clay opposed the confirmation, and it
was lost by the casting vote of the Vice-President,
John C. Calhoun.
[To Peter Irving.]
LONDON, March 16,1832.
MY DEAR BROTHER:
Your delightful long letter of the 27th February, was quite
a treat, and was rendered the more acceptable from my having
become a little uneasy (from your long silence) lest you should




.ET. 48.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.               481
be suffering under an attack of your headaches, as you had
complained slightly of it in a previous letter.
I sent off the first volume of the Alhambra by the Liverpool packet of the 1st, and am now treating, through Col. Aspinwall, with Colburn and Bentley about the publication of it
here. I have directed it to be published in New York on the
1st of May. The second volume is nearly ready; but I am
not determined as to whether I shall bring it out at the same
time, or suffer a few weeks to intervene
Mr. Van Buren pursues pretty much the plan you thought
of, when you spoke of the possibility of his nomination being
rejected.  Some of his friends were urgent for his immediate
return, to throw himself into the Senate, and attack his foes
sword in hand.  We had long talks on the subject; the result
was, that he determined to remain here a few weeks until he
had put the affairs of the legation in a fair train; then to visit
some parts of the continent, and to sail for the United States so
as to be there in June; by which time the public sentiment will
have had time to express itself fully and sincerely, without any
personal agitation on his part. This is certainly the most dignified course, and I think will be the most popular. I look
upon his rejection as a very short-sighted and mean-spirited act
of hostility; and regret that Clay should have suffered party
politics so far to have corroded his naturally generous and
chivalrous nature as to have been concerned in it. But such a
long and losing game as he has been playing, is apt to spoil the
noblest temper.
The rejection by the Senate was unexpected by Mr. Van
Buren, as it was by myself. We both thought there would
have been talking and threatening on the subject; but that he
VOL. II.-21     (31)




482                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1832.
would have been confirmed by a bare majority.  This news
took him, therefore, by surprise, and when he was suffering
under indisposition; but he bore it with great equaniminity.
There were just at the time levees, and drawing room and state
dinners, in honor of the Queen's birthday.  He was in doubt
whether to appear at them; as it had been represented in the
papers that the vote of rejection stripped him of his diplomatic
functions, and rendered all that he had done nugatory, unless
sanctioned by the Senate.  I advised him to take the field and
show himself superior to the blow levelled at him; at the same
time I had the statement in the papers corrected and the fact
made known, that his appointment and all his acts were valid
until the end of the session of Congress, unless he should be
previously recalled by the President.  He accordingly appeared
at all the court ceremonials; and, to the credit of John Bull,
was universally received with the most marked attention
Every one seemec. to understand and sympathize in his case;
and he has ever since been treated with more respect and attention than before by the royal family, by the members of the
present and the old cabinet, and the different persons of the
diplomatic corps. This I consider an earnest of the effect that
will be produced by the same cause in the United States. I
should not be surprised if this vote of the Senate goes far
towards ultimately elevating him to the presidential chair.
The more I see of Mr. V. B., the more I feel confirmed in
a strong personal regard for him.  He is one of the gentlest
and most amiable men I have ever met with; with an affectionate disposition that attaches itself to those around him, and wins
their kindness in return.
I presume you will see, by the papers, how royally King




.BT. 48.]        OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                  483
Stephen* has been acting.  You know he went from here, released from all his debts by an act of bankruptcy, and in bad
odor with his creditors and the public.  He returned, a short
time since, with money in both pockets, and paid off all his
debts with interest to the amount of several thousand pounds.
Cooper, the actor of Covent Garden, received ~1,000, which
he had considered lost.  One of the creditors had died in the
interim; but King Stephen sought out his heirs and paid the
money punctually.  The papers are all loud in his praise, and
it is pronounced   a splendid instance of honesty."
Robert the Devil is brought out in a higgledy-piggledy
manner at various theatres; the music but partially picked lup
by ear and by scraps. The real score of the music is purchased
for the opera.
Frank Mills has caught a dramatic mania, and aided in cooking up the piece for Drury Lane.  He wrote the songs, and a
Mr. Beasley (not Reuben) the dialogue. The success at the two
great theatres is not as great as was expected.  I am glad to
find Mills taking to the theatre, instead of the turf.  He is
likely to lose less money by Pegasus than by a race horse. I
called on him a day or two before the first performance of the
play, not having seen him for many months.  His servant said
he was not up; but I sent word that the manager of the theatre wanted to see him, and he must come out in his robe de
chambre. There was no resisting the summons of a king of
shreds and patches, and Mills was caught by one of those small
hoaxes of which he is so fond.  I had a very pleasant breakfast
with'him. We brigthened the chain of old friendship.  I have
since dined tete-a tete, and been to the play with him, and been
much amused with his gossip and vagaries in his new vein.
* Stephen Price, formerly manager of the Park Theatre in New York.




484               LIFE AND LETTERS              [1832.
The relation of this little hoax practised on Mills,
who, it may be remembered, was an Oxonian, with
whom  he had become intimate some years before,
brings to my mind a similar piece of fun which Mr.
Irving played off on Mathews, the eminent comedian,
to whom he had" given letters to America. IHe was
in the theatre in London, when the great mimic, after
his return from his professional tour in this country,
gave a dramatic monologue in which he served up
Brother Jonathan in racy and relishing caricature.
The travesty was very successful and was received by
John Bull with great applause.  After the performance, Mr. Irving stepped behind the scenes, and sent
in a message to the player that an Americcan was outside and wished to speak with him. 3fathews, who
was changing his dress, when startled at the unexpected summons, came out at once in a state of nervous
excitement, still struggling into the sleeves of his coat.
On seeing who his visitor was, his countenance immediately brightened, and seizing him by both hands,
he exclaimed: " My God! Irving, is it you, my dear
fellow? I am very glad to see you."  " Yes, it is me,"
said Mr. Irving, " but confess that you expected to
find a tall Kentuckian with a gun on his shoulder."
In some further extracts from the letter to Peter,
of March 6, already given in part, he writes:
I shall endeavor, in the course of a few days, to make a
flying visit to Birmingham, which must be my last one prior to
my sailing for the U. S. I shall endeavor to arrange my affairs,




ZET. 49.]       OF WASHINGTON IRVING.                485
so as to cross from Southampton to Havre about the 1st of April,
and to sail from thence by the first packet that departs.'   *   *   ~  Leslie will have three pictures at the Exhibition-a fine scene from  Catharine and Petruchio-a very
charming family picture of the family of the Marquis of Westminster (ci-devant Lord Grosvenor) and a pretty picture of two
figures from  Sterne's Tristam  Shandy, where  the French
Grisette is untwisting the papers from her hair and throwing
them into Tristam's hat, who is examining one of them with
an air of whimsical annoyance, finding it to be his travelling remarks.
I passed an evening at Leslie's not long since, when Peter
Powell acted his melodrama in great style, and gave his oratorio
into the bargain; it was a great comic treat.
Mr. Van Buren will leave London about the 1st April, and
will probably visit Holland before coming to Paris.
I write nothing about the cholera, because I scarcely think
about it.
On the 23d of March, Colonel Aspinwall had concluded a bargain with Colburn and Bentley for 1,000
guineas, for the two volumes of the Alhambra, at six,
nine, and twelve months; and Mr. Irving was now all
anxiety to be on the high seas, on his way to the
home from   which he had  so  long  been  severed.
March 2Sth, he sends the dedication for the American edition; and April 2d, he was to leave London
for Southampton, and embark on the 3d for Havre,
where he expected to meet and take leave of Peter,
who remained behind unable, from  the infirm  condition of his health, to attempt the voyage. He em



486                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1832.
barked at Havre April 11, and arrived at New York
May 21, after a passage of forty days.
Our voyage [he writes to Peter] was rather boisterous and
wintry, excepting the latter part, when we ran to the south into
the latitude of the Bermudas, and found smooth seas and summer
weather.  The wind headed as we approached our port, and
the ship had to come to anchor outside of the bar at the Hook;
but I got into a newsboat at sea, had a delightful sail up the bay,
and landed on one of the wharves of the city about sunset.
His reception. was most cordial.  The delight with
which he renewed his acquaintance with his native
country overflows in his letters.
I have been absolutely overwhelmed [he writes to Peter]
with the welcomes and felicitations of my friends.  It seems as
if all the old standers of the city had called on me; and I am
continually in the midst of old associates who, thank God, have
borne the wear and tear of seventeen years surprisingly, and are
all in good health, good looks, and good circumstances. This,
with the increased beauty, and multiplied conveniences and delights of the city, has rendered my return home wonderfully
exciting.  I have been in a tumult of enjoyment ever since my
arrival; am pleased with everything and everybody, and as
happy as mortal being can be.
The day on  which  the letter was written from
which  these extracts are taken, Mr. Irving  had to
undergo the severe ordeal of a public dinner, given to
him  by his early friends and townsmen, to express
their gratification at his return, and to welcome him




ET. 49.]       OF WASHINGTON IRVING.            487
to his native city. The warm  and affectionate zeal
which had been displayed in getting it up could not
but be deeply gratifying, and the testimonial was so
cordial that he could not decline the invitation, though
loth at all times to any public exhibition of himself,
or anything that savored of parade or display. "I
look forward to it with awe, he writes to Peter,' and
shall be heartily glad when it is over."  What made it
the more trying to his nerves, was that a speech would
be expected from him of course, and though bred to
the bar, as we have seen, he was altogether unpractised
in speaking in public, and from an over sensibility of
temperament could not rely upon the control of his
powers on such occasions.  Some of his friends, to
whom he expressed his apprehensions of a breakdown,
advised him to put himself in training, but he shrunk
from the idea of studied preparation, and said, though
in danger of a breakdown under any circumstances,
he would be sure of such a result if he undertook to
marshal his thoughts, and arrange his words beforehand. HIe must therefore trust to luck.
I was absent from the city when the dinner took
place, but I have heard his early and honored friend
Charles King, the President of Columbia College, pronounce it, years afterward, the most successful public
banquet ever given in the United States-the occasion
was so rare, the homage so spontaneous, the hilarity
so inspiring. It took place at the City Hotel. When
Chancellor Kent, the eminent jurist, who presided on




488                 LIFE AND LETTERS                11832.
the occasion, had concluded a very complimentary address, he gave: " Our illustrious guest, thrice welcome
to his native land."
The rest I quote from one of the newspapers of the
day, the Morning Courier:
Mr. Irving on rising was greatly agitated by the warm
cheers with which he was hailed.  He observed that he believed most of his hearers were sensible of his being wholly
unused to public speaking, but he should be wanting in the
feelings of human nature if he was not roused and excited by
the present scene.-After renewed cheering, he proceeded in,
as nearly as can be recollected, the following words:-" I find
myself, after a long absence of seventeen years, surrounded
by the friends of my youth-by those whom in my early days
I was accustomed to look up to with veneration-by others,
who, though personally new to me, I recognize as the sons of
the patriarchs of my native city. The manner in which I have
been received by them, has rendered this the proudest, the
happiest moment of my life.  And what has rendered it more
poignant is, that I had been led, at times, to doubt my standing in the affections of my countrymen.  Rumors and suggestions had reached me [here Mr. I. betrayed much emotion]
that absence had impaired their kind feelings-that they considered me alienated in heart from my country.  Gentlemen,
I was too proud to vindicate myself from such a charge; nor
should I have alluded to it at this time, if the warm  and
affectionate reception I have met with on all sides since my
landing, and the overpowering testimonials of regard here
offered me, had not proved that my misgivings were ground



IET. 49.]        OF WASHINGTON' IRVING.                  489
less. (Cheers and clapping here interrupted the speaker for a
few  moments.)  Never, certainly, did a man return to his
native place after so long an absence under happier auspices.
On my side I see changes, it is true, but they are the changes
of rapid improvement and  growing  prosperity;  even the
countenances of my old associates and townsmen have appeared to me but slightly affected by the lapse of years, though
perhaps it was the glow of ancient friendship and heartfelt
welcome beaming from them, that prevented me from seeing
the ravages of time.
" As to my native city, from the time I approached the
coast I had indications of its growing greatness. ~We had scarce
descried the land, when a thousand sails of all descriptions
gleaming along the horizon, and all standing to or from  one
point, showed that we were in the neighborhood of a vast
commercial emporium.  As I sailed up our beautiful bay,
with a- heart swelling with old recollections and delightful
associations, I was astonished to see its once wild features
brightening with populous villages and noble piles, and a
seeming city, extending itself over heights I had left covered
with green forests [alluding, probably, to Brooklyn and Gowanus].  But how shall I describe my emotions when our city
rose to sight, seated in the midst of its watery domain, stretching away to a vast extent-when I beheld a glorious sunshine
lighting up the skies and domes, some familiar to memory, others
new and unknown, and beaming upon a forest of masts of
every nation, extending as far as the eye could reach.  I have
gazed with admiration upon many a fair city and stately harbor,
but my admiration was cold and ineffectual, for I was a stranger,
and had no property in the soil.  Here, however, my heart
VOL. ITT.21*




490                  LIFE AND LETTERS                    [1832.
throbbed with pride and joy as I admired-I had a birthright
in the brilliant scene before me:
"This was my own, my native land."
Mr. Irving was here interrupted by immense applause:
when the cheering had subsided, he went on as follows: "It
has been asked' Can I be content to live in this country?
Whoever asks that question, must have but an inadequate idea
of its blessings and delights.  What sacrifice of enjoyments
have I to reconcile myself to? I come from gloomier climes to
one of brilliant sunshine and inspiring purity.  I come from
countries lowering with doubt and danger, where the rich man
trembles, and the poor man frowns-where all repine at the
present and dread the future. I come from these, to a country
where all is life and animation; where I hear on every side the
sound of exultation; where every one speaks of the past with
triumph, the present with delight, the future with growing and
confident anticipation. Is this not a community in which one
may rejoice to live? Is this not a city by which one may be
proud to be received as the son?  Is this not a land in which
one may be happy to fix his destiny, and his ambition-if possible-to found a name?  (A  burst of applause, when Mr.
Irving quickly resumed:)-I am asked how long I mean to remain here?  They know but little of my heart or my feelings
who can ask me this question. I answer, as long as I live." The
roof now rung with bravos, handkerchiefs were waved on every
side, "three cheers," again and again, and plaudit upon plaudit
following in such quick succession, begun, ended, and begun
again, that it was some time before the toast with which Mr.
Irving concluded, could be heard.  It was as follows-'Our City-May GOD continue to prosper it."




JET. 49.]       OF WASHINGTON IRVING.               491
Mr. Irving got through his speech better than he
had hoped, but not so well, perhaps, as if he had not
been so frequently interrupted by cheers, which had a
tendency to disturb the current of his thoughts. He had
no idea of closing when he did, I have heard him say,
but the acelamations which followed the declaration " as
long as I live," were so prolonged that it gave him time
to think it was as well to stop.  I-Ie had got on so far
so rmuch better than he anticipated, that he felt, he
said, it might be a tempting of Providence to continue,
and so he wound up. Newton, who sat near him, and
feared for the effect of his nervous perturbation, observed afterwards to a relative from whom I have the
anecdote:'" I trembled for him, until I saw him  seize
the handle of a knife and commence gesticulating
with that; then I knew he would get on."
The day succeeding the dinner, Newton addressed
the following letter to Peter Irving, who had been
warmly remembered by his old friends at the festivity,
with many regrets for his continued absence, which
had now been prolonged to twenty-three years.
NEW YORK, May 31.
MY DEAR SIR:
The packet sailing to-day, and Washington being out of
town, I seize a moment to write you a few lines that you may
be, as soon as possible, aware of the happiness which he and all
around him are enjoying from his welcome arrival here-his
delight seems to be boundless, and it ought to be so, for I do
not know how either his pride or his affections could be more




492                 LIFE AND LETTERS                  [1832
gratified than by the enthusiastic and kind reception he meets
with-it is really an era in this place  A public dinner was
given to him yesterday, attended -by all the dite of the place
and neighborhood-an assembly of nearly three hundred persons: it was the most interesting occasion of the kind I ever
witnessed-conducted in the best taste and demonstrating the
best feelings.  Washington was a little nervous at the prospect
of a speech; but the real feeling of the moment burst forth, and
he not only got on well, but with real eloquence.
Among the many genial and happy speeches made
on the occasion, that of John Duer, the accomplished
scholar and  elocquent advocate, which  preceded  his
toast to
" The Memory of the Dutch Herodotus, Diedrich Knickerbocker,"
is still remembered with delight by those who had the
good fortune to hear it, for the brilliancy of its wit and
the refinement and delicacy of its humor.
END OF VOLUME II.