I 
~' —i 
TURTLE-TURNING' AU NATUREL."
I Frontispiece. 
THE TWO AMERICAS;
AN ACCOUNT OF SPORT AND TRAVEL.
NOTES ON LIEN AND M{ANNERS IN NORTK
AND SOUTH AMERICA.
BY
MAJOR SIR ROSE LAMBART PRICE, BART., F.R.G.S.,
(LATE R.M.L.L)
WITH ILLUSTRATIONS.
PHILADELPHIA
J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO.
1877.
WFITH
I I  
TO
MY COUSIN,
GUSTAVUS LAMBART BASSET
OF TEHIDY,
THESE WANDERINGS ARE AFFECTIONATELY
Ititoibeb. 
I 
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER L
Leave England-The inducements-Slow progression-An awkward
cropper-Fishing at Madeira-The English cemetery-A sea waif
proves a sell-St. Vincent-Quail-shooting-Ship-wrecked mariners
-Quail cc la banana-A good evening's sea-fishing-Soap-fish-A
porcupine fish-Eels-Leave St. Vincent-Crossing the "Line" Neptune's visit- Curious coincidence-The ceremony-Night in the
tropics-The Argonaut-Efects or a bad cook-Anchor at Rio
Janeiro.,....,.    Pages 1-19
CHAPTER IL
Description of Rio Janeiro-Recent improvements-The Corcovado A  Brazilian forest- Villa  Isabella- Botanical  gardens -'1 he
market-Stupidity of post-office officials-Opposition of Brazilian
priests to public education-Growth of Romanism in England Leave Rio-Cobwebs on the La Plata —ionteo Video-Hotel del
Prado-Santa Lucia-TlThe country-Extravagance of cleanliness
and the price of soap-The Gaucho -Wretched misgovernment of
Uruguay.......          20-37
CHAPTER IIL
Leave Monte Video-Coast of Patsgonia-Port San Julian-Wild
ostrich- Thie Tehuelches, or natives of Patagonia- Early dis coverers-Stalking guanaco-De-cription of guanaco-A bad shot
-Patagonian partridge- Wild fowl - Wide-awakes- Tale of a
skunk-Leave Man Julian-Possession Bay-More guanaco and
ostrich-Death of a guanac-A successful shot-Terrific effects of
Express bullet........    88-54 
vi                CONTEYTS
CLCHAPTER IV.
Gregory Bay-Camp out-Duck-shooting in the Straits of Magellan A quiet little l()ugh-IHard work for Major-Contents of the bag Elizabeth Island-Sold-Upland geese-Santa Magdalena-Laredo
Bay-Black-necked swan-Punta Arenas-Don Enrique-Gold and
Coal-Friendly relations with the natives-Ladies of Patagonia Chus-Terra del Fuego —The Fuegans-A Chilian feed-Scenery in
the Straits of Magellan-Williwaws-Extraordinary growth of mnoss
-Ladies of Terra del Fuego-Seals...    Pages 55-73
CHAPTER V.
Borja Bay-Coast scenery-Wild geese-Puerto Chutrruca-Terrible
aspect of the country-The otter islands-Enormous bee-Mount
Burney-First view of the Cordilleras-Trip for a yachtsman with
a predilection for sport- Mayne Harbour-Puerto Buena —Alarm of
Martin at strange sounds-Quarts versus Quartz-Guia Narrows Chasm Reach-Quantities of seals-Grey Harbour-A tough old
warrior-A  tempting  river-I air my  rods-Halt Bay-Island
Harbour-Fly-fishing in Patagonia a pitfall, a snare, and a
delusion-Sombrero Island-We get on shore-Gulf of Peias Utter inefficiency of the RLocket and Boxer class of gun-bot Remarkable kelp in the Straits of Magellan-Slaughter of the
innocents.....               74-97
CHAPTER VL
Valparaiso-Cleanline,s of the streets-Powers of an Intendente-Union
Club at Valparaiso-The mountain of Aconcagua-Trip to Santiago A refieshment room absolutely worse than those in England-Good natured  Chilian-Muzzling  the  priests-Fruit-SSantiago-Santa
Lucie-The Alameda-Plaza Indepentdencia-The park-The clubs The fire brigade-The theatre-Chilian dinner-Pisco-A large herd
of sea-lions-Coqnimbo-The Gunyacon copper works-Serana-The
line to Ovalle-Mit'eral wealth of Chili-Gran Hotel de Francia Lirmari-Chilian country-life-Farming-The lasso-Chilian moiunted
-A beggar on horseback-Compa~iia-Chili a well-goverlle(l and
progressing country......   98-124
CITAPTER VIL
Callao- Lima-Ho'els- Ladies -The manto- Cathedral- Pizaro's
bones-Midnight funeral-Priestcraft in Peru-Frequency of murders
vi
CONTELVTS. 
c(NhNS                   vi
-Fate of the brothers Gutierrez-Earthquakes-A bull-fight-Bullbaiting-The Oroya railway-Highest point on the line 15,645 feet
above the sea-Aztec cultivation-Distances from Callao and height
above the sea of the various stations on the Oroya railway-Chorrillos
-Corruption of all classes of government officials in Peru-Death of
Maj.r-Payta-Cross the equator-The  Cocos Islands-SharksTurtle-turning au naturel....    Paes 125-148
CHAPTER VIII.
Acupulco-Mfssacre of the Protestant inhabitants by the fanatic Roman
Catholics-Intolerance of the priests-Pira de la Questa-Tickle an
alligator with small shot-Mexican cuisine-Wild-fowl shooting on
the lagoon-A ride in the dark-Manzanilla-A wild-goose chase  Kill an alligator-Fight between sharks and alligators-St. Bias  Cigars-Magnificent duck-sho:)ting-on the river Santiago-Alligators
and dogs-Diagreeable rencounter-Mazatlan-Freight for H.M.
ships....e.....  149-184
CHAPTER IX.
Deductionscbncerning "universal suffrage" in South America and Mexico
-How they apply to England-Deductions concerning priestcraft in
South America and Mexico-How it applies to England-San Diego
-Los  Angeles- Californian  wine- Quail- Ground-squirrels Californian  driving-Sold-San  Francisco-Expectoration-Pecu liarities of dress-The fourth of July-Soda Springs-Siskiyou Co. Hlead waters of the Sacramento-Salmon-fishing extraordinary Head-waters of the McLeod-" Dolly ~arden" trout-Watching a
deer-lick-Night-watch  for a bear-A  game  salmon - IRtiilway
comianies and guns..               *             185-227
CIIAPTER.
Lathrop-3Terced-American politicians-Tuolumne Grove-The Yo Semite valley-Garrote-Mammoth grove of" big trees," Calaveras Co.
-South Park grove of "big trees "-Lake Tahoe-Fishing on Tahoe
-Carson-Night ride on a "cow-catcher "-Visit to a silver mine Gold-Earthliquakes-Virginia City-Nevada-Land of Mormon Funeral of George A. Smith-The Tatbrnacle-A MIormon sermon
-S,ilphur springs-The tiowel-Layonet-The Great Salt Lake Jackass rabbits.......  228-270
vii
CONTENTS. 
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XI.
Cache valley-Cbicken-shooting —A bear hunt-A few words concern  ing bears-Ogden-Laramie City-Fort Sanders-A scout on the
Rocky Mountains-Amnerican tents-Rarefaction of the air-A long
shot-Sage-(hens-Beaver-dams-My first elk-Lost on the moun  tains-ur game-bag-Murders by the "Noble savage "-A few words
about Indians-The Pi-Utes superstition-Chiefs-Squaws-Religion
-Cards-Sioux or Dakotas-Preparation for war-TlThe Black Hills
-The beginning of the end-Prtsident Grant-North Platte  Buffalo-Tle Loup Valley-Anec(lotes of the frontier-Fort Hartsuff
-Prairie fires-Prairie do(gs-Tame elk-A close shave-Another
elk hunt-" Buckshot "-A large band of elk-Not dead yet-Wolves
-A complete spill......   Pges 271-332
CHAPTER XIL
Leave Fort Hlartsulff-Rapid growth of Western towns-Omaha  Chicago —Hotel  life in America-Canada- Toronto - Sleighing
- Niagara-Montreal- Sumrl)ing-up-A chivalrous  American  Hospitality of the U.S.A. Officers-Tale of a snuff-box-The
end....... 333-359
APPENDICES.
PAGE
A.-The Boxer and Rocket class of gun-boat...  360
B.-The "Trowel-bayonet" of the United States troops..  362
C.-Moode of dealing with the Indians in America... 363
eve
VIII 
TIlE TWO AMERICAS.
CHAPTER I.
Leave England-The inducements-Slow progression-An awkwar(l
cropper-Fishing at Madeira-The English cemetery-A sea waif
proves a sell-St. Vincent-Quail shooting-Shipwrecked mariners Quail a lgo banana -A  good evening's sea-fishing-Soap-fish-A
porcupine fish-Eels-Leave St. Vincent-Crossing the "Line" Neptune's visit-Curious coincidence-The ceremony-Night in the
tropics - Tbf Argonaut- Effects of a bad cook - Anchor at Rio
Janeiro.
ON  Sunday, the 4th of October, 1874, I took up
my quarters on board  H. u.S. Rocket, a doublescrew composite gun-vessel, 464 tons, and 120
horse-power, bound for the Pacific station, where
she was to relieve H.M.S. Boxer, then stationed at
Esquimault, a small harbour containing a dockyard,
in Vancouver Island.
Lieut. H., who commanded her, had been with
me in Beauchamp Seymour's "Flying Squadron,"
where he was first lieutenant of the Volage, after
F. got promoted; and very kindly offering me half
his accommodation-a cabin opposite his own-prevailed on me to sail with him for the cruise.
The inducements were considerable; including a
trip through the Straits of Magellan, a look at the
B 
THE TWO AMIERICAS.
Patagonians, and several places on the Pacific coast
of America; possibly some good salmon-fishing and
shooting in British Columbia, and an undoubtedly
interesting journey home by the' Union Pacific
Railway from San Francisco, visiting ez routte the
celebrated Yo-Semite Valley, the Salt Lakle City of
Brigham Young and the Mormons, and the Falls of
Niagara.  I took with me a tent, canteen, and indiarutbber boat, besides my guns, rifles, and rods; and
with a good-looking young retriever, called c"Major,"
felt tolerably prepared for anything that might turn
up on our arrival at the "happy hunting-grounds"
of the far West.
Within half an hour of my arrival on board we
were under weigh, and, passing Mount Edgecombe
and the breakwater, soon left Plymouth behind us;
night rapidly cast her duskly wings around, and the
last shadowy visions of old England soon fa,ded from
our view.
Our voyage to Madeira was varied by light winds,
foul winds, and gales of wind; one of the latter, off
the Bay of Biscay, being unusually severe.  Many of
the young hands were very sea-sick, and Martin, a
queer kind of factotum of the captain's, and a most
original character in his own way, looked the perfect
picture of misery and unhappiness, as he crawled
with uncertain shambling footsteps and pallid woebegone countenance about the upper deck, his short
neck and square  under-sized  frame  considerably
resembling a disconsolate turtle.
Before long we discovered that, though an excel:Jent sea-boat, the Rocket was by no means a clipper,
2 
3IADEIRA.
and that a very strong inducement was required to
prevail on her to go more than four knots an hour
under either sail or steam, and that, unless running
before the wind, her average lee-way was seldom less
than two and a half points. Slowly but steadily we
ploddedl onward, and on the 20th of October anchored
at Funchal, having taken sixteen days to get there.
The scenery of Madeira when viewed from the
ocean entirely depends on the time of year and state
of the atmosphlere.  To do it simple justice, both
were on this occasion unfavourable, and the appearanlce of the island may be described in a somewhat
graphic remark of Martin's, which lost none of its
quaintness through being delivered in his broad
Devo,ishire dialect.  Seeiug him wNatching the island
which we were now rapidly closing with a strong
wind right abaft, I said, 1"Well, Martin, what do
you think of foreign lands?"  "I don't see noa
land," replied he; "I only sees a monsterous rock
a-raising of itself out of the sea." And such indeed
it appeared on this occasion merely to be, and had I
not seen it at other seasons a mass of verdure, its
high, sharply-outlined mountains, in bright relief
against the clear blue sky, its plots of waving sugarcane, and terraces of vineyards, I also might have
thought it but "a monlsterous rock, a-raisinlg of itself
out of the sea."
H.Ml.S. Albatross was in harbour. She had left
Plymlouth a week after we did, aid arrived that
morning.
Few places pall on one more than Madeira. On
my first visit, I thought it a paradise; on my second,
2
1)
-D 
4        TH   W   MRCS
not a bad substitute for one; three years back, a
pretty little place for a very short visit; and this
time it seemed merely commonplace and decidedly
slow.  H. and myself planned a shooting expedition to a distant part Gf tLe island, which was to
have extended over three days.  It required eight
hours' riding to reach the ground, which necessitated
an early start; but on getting out of bed on the
morning of our intended departure, we found such
a storm raging, with torrents of rain, that to start in
it would have been simple madness, and so, reluctantly, we had to give it up, and  content ourselves with the usual thing that everyone seems to
do, i.e., the Little Curral -a slide down a steep hill
from the convent in a bask&et- sledge, and a gallop
along the new road.
Our ride to the Curral gave exercise to our dogs,
who had been for some time cooped up on board,
and they certainly enjoyed their galiop as much as
their masters. The scenery, whlen' once well up the
mountain, was very lovely, and my enjoyment of it
was only marred by the pony I was riding having
an awkward trick of stumbling at the worst places;
and once coming a regular "burster" on the top
of his head at a spot where he miglit have shot me
a few hundred feet down a ravine, had good fortune
not tumbled him over on the safe, instead of tlhe
unsafe side of the pathway.
Another day we visited a small fishing-village, just
as the boats arrived to unload their cargoes of scaly
monsters, conspicuous among wl-lichl was a huge ugly
shark, with teeth strong, large, and sharp enough
4
THB TWO AMBBICAS. 
MADEIRA.               5
to have bitten a man in two with one snap of its
powerful-looking jaws.  Most of the boats had a few
albicore, the largest about a hundredweight and a
half, and quantities of other fish whlichla I knew not
the names of, and probably had never seen before.
We were much struck with the rapid and dexterous
manner the albicore were cleaned and prepared for
salting,; and after inspecting the lines and different
paraphernalia of the fishermen's gear, and crossquestioning them as to the means of capture, came to
the conclusion that albicore-fishing must be rather
good fun.
The Consul put our names down for the club and
reading-room, and what with studying old newspapers
and feeding at Miles's Hote], we managed to get
through our visit.
The English cemetery has a certain sad interest
about it, from the dreadful number of consumptive
victinis whose graves lie thick around, the average
age on the tombstones being only about twenty-two;
poor C.'s, a midshipman I met out here last time I
visited the island, being among the number.
On Saturday, the Albatross steamed out of harbour,
and on Sunday, the 25th of October, we" again urged
on our wild career," taking with us as much stock
as we could bring, and some of' the dirtiest washing,
from an old Portuguese hag, a Madame Rosa, that I
ever remember carrying to sea.
Next afternoon, while meditating with my eyes
closed,-a very usual occupation with idlers on board
ship after luncheon,-the quartermaster on watch
awoke me to say a large spar was in sight, and that
MADEIRA.
5 
THE TWO AME,RICAS.
the captain thought I milght like to see it.  On
reachling the bridge I saw a long spar (forty-eight
feet, it turned out to be afterwards) some short way
ahead, and which, lying but a little distance out of
our trac!, we had altered our course to inspect.  The
captain, first lieutenant, and  chief carpenter, were
in solemn confab, and on the carpenter pronouncing
judgment that the spa,r was a good one, it was determined to get it in-board without delay.  Shoals
of fish were round it, (a bad sign, I thloughlt, for its
utility,) and hlalf-a-dozen lovely dolphin, leaving the
barnacle-coveredcl attraction, sailed, as if on a tour of
inspection, round the slhip.  Two liours' hard work
of all hands secured the prize, but darklness having
set in before it could be examined carefully, we could
only speculate as to its probable value, until next
day cltermined tlhe result.  IH. was  delighted.  "It
must be worth from 201. to 351."  "Hie would sell
it at Rio."  B., the first lieutenant," thought it would
fetch much paint;" and the lowerdeck thought, that
perhaps an appropriate splicing of the main-brace,
wvithl the proceeds of Neptune's gift to his children,
would not come in amiss on  some future  festive
occasion.   Alas!  dclaylighlt  next  morning  rudely
scattered all visions of money, paint, and grog; the
spar  was discovered to be so th-oroughly  boneyconlmbed by sea worlis, as to be utterly useless for all
purposes of sale or barter, and on removing its thick
coating of barnacles, nothling but fire-wood could be
thought of as a use.
We  expected, shortly after leaving Madeira, to
havo found the Northl-East Trades  which should
c 
VINCENT             7
have taken us within 5~ of the Line oil our road
to Rio Janeiro; but as day after day we steadily
steamed onward, without the slightest trace of a
wind approaching, and our consumption of coal
was gradually making our balance look unpleasantly
small for so distant a journey as that which still
lay before us, H. determined on touching for fuel at
St. Vincent, one of the Ctape Verde Islalnds, which
lay almost in our trackl.
On the?,rd of November, we sighted St. Antonio
at daylight, its high peak, 7400 ieet above the level
of the sea, just peeping out of the clouds by whicht it
was surrounded, and at one o'clock were safely at
anchor at Porto Grande, the chief town and coaling
station at St. Vincent.
Few places are more uninviting  than the town
and harbour of Porto Grande.   The ground  is
parched, sandy, and arid; hardly any vegetation is
perceptible from the anchorage, and the entire place
looks dismal and woe-l, egone in the extreme.  The
island is of volcanic formation and the mounltains,
though high, are not sufifcieiitly so to attract tl)he
clouds and receive their moisture as in the neighlbouring island of St.  tAntonio, which, only a fewv
miles distant, and of similar volcanic origin, possesses
a fair amount of vegetation; sufficient, at any rate,.
to provide fruit and vegeta-tbles for their own consumiption, as wvell as enabllin,g them to send a few
boat-loads to Porto Grande, not a single tliing of
any kind being proeduced in St. Vincent.
In the afternoon, IH. and self, taking with us our
guns and the dogs, wen-t to call on the Acting
7
S I'. VINCE, IV T. 
TTHE TWO AMERICAS.
Consul, Mr. J. V. M., who, hearing that it was our
intention to try for some quail, kindly lent us horses
to ride to the ground and a guide to show us the
way.  After jo-ging along for about a mile and a
half, we came to a kind of thin scrub partly cleared,
and  planted  with young Indian corn.   Among
this stuff, the guide, and a couple of niggers who
had  joined  him,  commenced  beating  for  quail,
and in a short time put some up.  They  were a
very small sort, generally known as "button quail,"
and being the same colour as the ground, and flying
low through the scrub, were as difficult to knockl over
as hard to find afterwards, there not being an atomn
of scent for the dog,s to work by.
Next morning, before daylight, taking Martin with
me, I started from the ship; and, landing about three
miles, from the town, steadily beat up a large open
plain, scantily covered with some green substitute
for grass, but bearing a plentiful crop of loose angular stones, in many places as thickl and sharp as those
on a newly macadamised road, which I had been
recommended to try. Not finding anything here,
we crossed over a mountain-ridge to the ground we
had beaten the previous evening, and where we
soon got several shots.  A  negro milking goats told
us the birds lay higher up; but the heat of the sun
had by this tirne got so intense, that, had we continued our sport, the dogs could not possibly have
stood it, so, after getting a drink of new goat's
milk, which was uncommonly good, we turned our
steps towards the town and got on board again for
breakfast.
8 
SHIPWRECKED MARINERS.
At some seasons of the year thle quail-shooting
at St. Vincent is really excellent, an average shot
being known to kill over twenty brace in a few
hours.
In the afternoon we went on shore to prospect the
town, and found it a wretched place almost entirely
populated by niggers. Some shipwrecked mariners
were lo(afing about, one of whom, a sailmaker, H.
endeavoured to persuade to join the Rocket.  Shipwreckled mariner had, however, once before been her
Majesty's servant, and did not seem at all inclined to
covet the honour of serving again.
One of the crew, a very decent fellow, appeared
considerably distressed at what he told me  was a
common custom in the Merchant Service, but which
nevertheless appeared to me as a rank injustice.  It
seems that the owners of a vessel stop the pay of the
crew from the date they hear their ship is lost. The
wives therefore of the men who happen to le married,
and who have their husbands' pay allotted for their
support during his absence from home, are suddenly
rendered penniless, through no fault of either themselves or the father of their children., Piece by
piece their household comforts are converted into
bread, each visit to the pawnshop bringing them
nearer starvation.
As nine times out of ten the ship and cargo are
amply insured - that often vessels are purposely
wrecked, burned, or founder  at sea, through dishonest owners seeking to defi'aud the insuranc e
com[panies, is unhappily a well-assured fact-and
that rarely any well-mranaged firm of shipowners
9 
TTHE TWO A.MEPbICAS.
suffer from a wreckl, their insurance covering all
losses-it does indeed seem hard, that the wife arid
clhildren of a common sailor, whlo firom his position
must be entirely blameless for the disaster, should
be tlhe only sufferer by the affair.
WThile I was shlooting in tle morning, ]T. made
one of those accidental yet valu(ble discoveries, thlat
so often lead to great results. From a culinary
point of view, he had achieved greatness in a no less
remarkablle manner than by inventing a new method
of coolkig quail, which only requires to  become
known to completely supersede all others.
Having ordered for his breakfast some of the birds
we hlad shlot thle previous evening, he remembered
thlat there were no vine-leaves to cookl them with
and lookling about him in despair for a substitute,
saw,a plate of bananas.  It suddenly occurie,ed to
him to try the peel of one over the slice of thin
bacon whlich envelopes the bird; he did so, andcl tlhe
result was one of tl-hose marvellous successes which
for ever after renlder their discoverer famious.
Joking  apart, the birds thlis cooked were  far
superior to any I have ever taLsted dressed in the
conventional vine-leaf, and the receipt may prove a
usefutl wrinklle to travellers, vhio, likle myself, may
have frequently enljoyed capital qutil-slhootillg, in
places wherie banana peel was plentiful, but vineleaves scarce.
Mr. M. took us in the evening to a large rock at
the entrance  of the harbour, called Bird Island,
where, being provided wvith rods and bait, we conmenced fishing sl-hortly after the sun had gone down.
10 
AN EVE.XING'S SEA-FISHING.
The native boats had just given up as we arrived,
which was a pretty good sign that the best part of
the day was over; however, we went to work, and
as M.'s blacklc boat's-crew instructed us in the piscatorial art as practised at St. Vincent, I will try and
describe their operations.
Thie rods, stout bamboos about fourteen feet long,
with the lines fastened half-way down and leading to
the top, having been taken out of the boat, an active
darky commenced spearing small crabs; quantities of
whom were running over the side of the rock, as the
waves rising and falling exposed them momentarily to
the quick eye of the sharp-sighlted negro, whlose unerring dart seldom failed to secure its aim. Hiaving killed
a couple of dozen, he commenced mashing them up
with a stone into paste, whlich, formied into balls, he
immediately cast into the sea to attract the fislh;
and then baiting our hlooks with legs of crabs or
barnacles, we watched the result of his mode of
attack with some anxiety.
We had not long to remain in suspense.  "I've
got one," was soon the cry, and shortly all the rods
were bending at different angles according to the
weight and resistance of their various captures.
iTothing could have been more exciting than this
sport, which for over aii hour wais steady and unceasing. Neearly all the fish were of different varieties,
and had we been unattended by M.'s "darkies," I am
confident some of us would have been hurt, if not
seriously injured, by the fishi in unhllooking themn, as
nearly all were  armed  with some  description of
prickle.   Many of their prielle3 were  poisonous, and
11 
THlE TWO AMERiCAS.
all of them bit like mad at everything within reach
on coming out of the " briny."
A handsome red fish, about two pounds in weight
and something like a perch, called by M. "the king
of the seas," was the best eating of the lot, and well
merited his proud appellation, as a finer flavoured
one I have seldom tasted.   A black uglyv-looking
thing, about a pound weight, was called "the soapfish," and was uneatable; but on being stirred about
in a small pool of salt water, soon caused it to lather
like suds. A porcupine-fish (D)iodon hystrix), weighing
about seven pounds, one of the Plectognathes, was
perhaps the most curious one we caughlt. The men
treated this gentleman with the greatest possible
caution, evidently regarding him as a dangerous
brute. A more awkward one to handle it is quite
impossible to conceive, as he was entirely covered
with small spikes, dispersed over sides, back, and
abdomen, in such a manner as to prevent effectually
anyone touching him.  On b)eing hauled up he came
grunting loudly out of the water, and as he lay on
the rocks, commenced swelling himself out by successive gulps of air, which he inhaled with such
noise and vigour that he soon resembled a cross between a distended football and an angry toad. Its skin
was so tough that it resist'ed easily the pikle-thrusts
which saluted it, and only after several efforts was
it dispatched with a sharp and strong clasp-knife.
Its mnaxillary and intermaxillary bones are soldered
together so as to render the upper jaw immoveable; its entire mouth appeared plated with some
hard kind of enamel, and M. told us that its powers
12 
AN EVENING'S SEA-FISHING.
of crushing were so great, that when fresh from the
water one of them could easily crumble any of the
lumps of scoria lying about, were a piece placed
between its powerful jaws.
We caught several large eels, which caused more
alarm than anything  else —thie  niggers skipping
away like nionkleys the instant they were thrown
upon the rocks.   They certainly were formidable
brutes, and the bare-legged boatmen were amply
justified for the  activity they displayed.    Their
jaws, shape,l something like a duck's bill, were
capable of great expansion, and their teeth were
strong and sharp as razors.   One that we  had
speared turned viciously round and bit a large piece
out of his own tail, and then, seizing a bamboo he
had been struck with, severed the tough cane as if it
had been, a simple carrot.   We  afterwards spiced
and pickled our ill-tempered friend, and found him
excellent eating; but though the flesh was perfectly
white and delicate, his bones were all deep purple,
and strong as steel.  The vertebral bone was marvellously formed for strength, having a kind of extra
flange through its entire length, which must have
given the brute an amount of power I h(ave never
seen developed in any other kind of eel, or in any
skeleton of snake or viper.   All the small bones
terminated in a kind of fang or fork which I never
observed ill any other fish.
We killed many other varieties of fish which it
would be tedious to describe, and got back to the ship
when it became quite dark, after having enjoyed an
evening's sport as unusual as it was interesting.
13 
THE TWO AMIERICA.S.
On our return we found Il.M.S. Basilisk at anchor.
She had come in for coal, on her way to England,
after a commission of nearly four years in Australia.
On the 5th of November we steamed out of Porto
Grande, H.M.S. Coqutette standing in as we left.
The heat at St. Vincent was intense, and though
Europeans find it healthy according to their account
(half of them never show out for a moment during
the heat of the day, and running no risk, are not
likely to get ill), we were aill precious glad to get
away.  I lost a new and excellent purse there, which
tumbled out of my  pocklet whlile shooting;  this
annoyed me a good deal, and as we evidently had
not hit off the cream of the quail season, I was
delighted that our stay was of no longer duration.
On the evening of the 15th of November, Neptune
coming on board, announced his intention of next
morning visiting the slhip in a more formal manner
(which would by that time have arrived at his own
particular dominion), and that he would require a
toll from all those who had not already paid their
footing. The engines were stopped, sides piped, and
his MIajesty received by the captain on the quarterdeckl, who, after expressing the delight he felt at again
malting his Royal Ilighness's acquaintance, asked,
" What kind of weatlher are we likely to have?"
"Stormy weather," replied Neptune; "and I also
prognosticate much wet very shortly;" which propliecy was almost instantly fulfilled by the donkeyengine, which had been  secretly rigged for the
occasion, immediately commencing to play on the
mob of "greenhorns" who had come aft to see the
14 
1VEPTUATE'S VISIT.
ceremony, not knowing exactly what they might
expect;  and shortly afterwards, Neptune  having
received a bottle of cold tea from the captain (very
strong, and smelling suspiciously of irum) for Amphitrite his wife, took his departure over the stern iii a
chariot of fire, which "as seen  long  afterwards
floating miles behind us.
"Reed," a huge boatswain's mate over six foot,
and "bearded like a pard," represented the great sea
god, and really mnade a most excellent illustration of
the mythological deity.  His chariot of firie was
manufactured out of a tar-barrel, which was ignited
and cut adrift, as he disappeared over the stern to
uprig out of sight of the youngsters who were gazing
open-mouthed at the interview  with IH., which had
just taken place, and whose mnouths were only closed
again lby the judicious application of salt-water
already al\luded to.
Next morning, the 16thl of November, we crossed
the line in Long. 25~ 34' W.  A  very remarkable
coincidence here took place.  Shortly after divisions,
the hands went to "fire quarters." as being the most
convenient method for filling, by all the pumnps, a
large b,ath made out of a sail which was to be used
for duckilng Neptune's victims in, after their being
shlaved.
The bell had not been rung two minutes, whichl
summoned the men  to their stations, when a bona'
fide fire was discovered in one of the coal bunkers.
The bath had to be taken down, and the fire engines
were actively employed for some time in extinguishing the smouldering coal, which threw out volumes
15 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
of smoke during the operation. In less than an hour
the danger was reported over, and not to be done
out of their fun, again the hands commenced rigging
bath and platform for the coming ceremony.
All preparations been duly made, Neptune, Amphitrite, and  their  son, (a sturdy little Triton,)
attended by a brilliant staff, having  promenaded
round the quarter-deck to the soul-inspiring strains
of a penny whistle, three Dot-lids, and a banjo, took
up their position on a dais raised for the occasion,
and conveniently placed to the bath, which was some
four feet deep, and large enough to contain half-adozen lusty bears, who, bedaubed with paint like red
Indians,  growled  and disported themselves  gtaily
in tl,e huge tank while waiting anxiously for their
prey.
Hiis Majesty, being provided by the assistant paymaster with a list of all hands on board who had not
previously crossed the line, commenced in a stern
tone of voice by demanding that his first unpresented
servant should be brought before him. Immediately
the individual was seized by some myrmidons, blindfolded, and led up a ladder to the dais, where he
was handed over to the tender mercies of a barber
and doctor, well supported by a staff of assistants
sufficiently numerous to render resistance quite out
of the question.
He was then placed sitting crossways on the extreme end of a bench, close to, but with his back
to the bath, which was about eight feet below him.
The doctor at this juncture, fearing that excitement might cause ill effects to his patient, kindly
16 
NE1>TUNE'S VISiT.
administered his smelling-bottle, a most odoriferous
stimulant, the cork being well provided with sharp
pins, which-as a description of counter-irritantwas considerately rammed in his nose.  This naturally
caused him to ejaculate "Oh!" and immediately a
pill, the ingredients of which we will not inquire
into, was dexterously popped into his open mouth.
The amount of medicine depended to a great
extent on the popularity, or otherwise, of the initiated;  and the words "Scrub him,"  and "Werry
obstreperous, your mojesty-resisted hawfuil!" hinted
to the executioners the amount of torture they were
expected to inflict.
The barber then commenced, and having completely enveloped his patient's head, nose, ears, and
eyes, with a thick coating of soft-soap and soot,
shiaved it pff with a lhuge razor of either rusty iron,
or jagged wood, according to Neptune's mandate
for No. 1 or No. 2 weapon to be used; and then
hasving entirely finished, at a sudden signal,  the
novice was tumbled over backwards into the bath,
where he was seized upon by the expectant "bears,"
and soundly ducked and belab)oured, until hle crawled
out at the other end, heartily glad, I have no doubt,
that his initiation into the mysteries of the deep had
at length been completed.
About five-and-thirty "tyros" were operated on,
and though much of the play was somewhat rough
and boisterous, there was not a single instance in
whichl any of the men lost their temper, or looked
upon the whole affair as other than a good joke.
Night at sea, whlile in the "trades" is always
c
17 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
delightful, and I frequently slept on deck, or lay
there watching the stars, so refulgent and glorious,
that I often wondered vaguely what they really
were, almost ready to believe in the faith of the
ancients,  who  peopled  them  with  creatures  and
gave them gods. The brilliancy of Venus at times
equalled that of the moon. I don't know whether
her transit taking place about this period liad anythling to do with her illuminating powers, but she
often threw regular and distinct rays across the
water, and gave sufficient light to read by.  Sirius
and Orion's Belt seemed vivid, and even the overrated Southern Cross grew brighter.
On nights likle these, a gentle balmy air stealing
along  the  bosom  of  the  deep countless  stars
sparkling in the flirmament -the pleasant ripple of
the water mnaking music as the ship glides almost
motionless through it-and all around, save watch
and helmsman, hushed in sleep, one feels thankful to
be away from  cities or towns- from  their foetid
atmosphere and discordant noise.
Shortly after crossing  the line we saw a most
lovely "argonaut," or "Portuguese man-of-war," as
nearly all the nautili are called by sailors. It was
the largest I had ever seen, its sails being over a
foot above the water, and of a bright violet colour.
It passed quite close to the side of the ship, and as
we were going very slowly at the time, had opportunity of admiring its excessive beauty. With the
exception of the Spirula, it is the only one among its
species, the dibranchiate cephalopod., who possesses an
outward shlell, and was supposed by the ancients to
is 
EFFECTS OF A BAD COOK.
have been the model from which man took his first
idea of navigation.
A passenger on board ship must make occupation.
To a man devoid of resources in himself I can
honestly say- avoid ship life; and perhaps we hlad
much to be thankful for, in that it pleased fate to
bestow on us, in the shape of cook, one Thomas
Smith, the most utter fool and spoiler of food I ever
came  across.   His  extreme  incapacity  gave  us
plenty to do, as not wishing to be poisoned we
always made the b)read.   From bread making we
soared to other flights, and if all trades fail, I thinkl
that either of us might take the billet we trained for
in the Rocket.
Time somehow passes more rapidly at sea than in
any other place: so little occurs to mark  the days
by, they seem positively to fly; and Ol" finishing a
journey, one is lost in astonishment at the manner
it got so soon over.
We jogged quietly along, seldom averaging over
seven hundred miles a week, and on the 1st of
December, 1874, anchored in the harbour of Rio de
Janeiro, the capital of Brazil.
19 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
CHAPTER II.
Description of Rio Janeiro-Recent improvements-The Coreovado A Brazilian forest-Villa Isabella-Botanical gardens-The market
-Stupidity of the post-office officials-Opposition of Brazilian priests
to public education-Growth of Romanism in England-Leave Rio
-Cobwebs on the La Plata-Monte Video-Hotel del Prado-Santa
Lucia-The country-Extravagance of cleanliness and the price of
soap-The Gaucho-Wretched misgovernment of Uruguay.
IT would be difficult to do adequate justice, in merely
attempting to describe the magnificent harbour of Rio
de Janeiro.   The artist only has power to convey
an idea where mere description fails, and to the
brush of a "Bierstadt" lies thie task of truthfully
delineating a harbour that, for size and beauty, is
generally supposed to be the finest in the world.
Those who have seen Queenstown can get a falint
idea of its genera] character, by magnifying the Irish
harbour about ten times, diminishing its entrance to
less than half, studding the vast expanse of sheltered
water with innumerable palm-clad islands, surrounding it on all sides with lofty mountains covered to
near their summit with  thie rank luxuriousness of
trolical vegetation, and  throwing up against the
azure sky so fantastic an outline, that onre beconmes
lost in amazement whlile conten,plating a scele so
full of beauty anld yet so wveird.
20 
RIO DE JANEIRO.
These distant mountains are called the Organs,
possibly from their similarity to the pipes of that
instrument, and are of extraordinary formation; the
peaks running almost like the teeth of a comb, up
and down  the entire  range.   They are  several
hundred feet lhigh, and quite inaccessible to the foot
of man.
We found H.M.SS. Albatross and Dart in harbour, the former having only got in five days before
us  in  her passage from Madeira.   The E~inont,
an old storeship, was in the act of being abolished,
and H. did not feel particularly  delighted  when
Capt. B., the senior officer, ordered him to send a
working party for two days to assist in clearing
her out.
Improvements much needed had been going on at
Rio since.my last visit, and that energetic monarch
Pedro the Second was still busy in further utilizing
and doing good.
Facility of locomotion had been increased, by the
laying down of tramns in all directions for street cars.
The line of railway had been pushed on a considerable distance from its then terminus, and public
schools had been opened for free education in more
places than one.
The morning after our arrival, we were made
aware at daybreak, by the mlost terrific cannonading(,
that it was the Emperor's f.;te day; at nioon we
were  again reminded, and at sunset it was  once
more dinned into our tortured ears.  However, the
Brazilians have a worthy good monarch whlo unceasingly and unselfishly works for their benefit, and
21 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
few crowned heads deserve such thundering applause
mnore than the one for whose honour our slumbers
had been so premnaturely disturbed.
He opened a new stone pier at the principal landingplace in honour of the event, thus supplying a Want
long neglected, and much  felt  by all maritime
visitors to his capital. We found letters waiting for
us on board.the Egmont, and among mine I discovered
the purse I had lost while out shooting at St. Vincent.
Before leaving, I had offered the contents as a reward
should the purse be discovered and sent me. Twenty
niggers had scoured the country after we sailed, and
the Consul forwarded the result of their diligence by
post.
The Navy and the British Merchant do not seem
to "hit it off" at Rio.  Whether the latter are too
hlunible to take the initiative, and call on men their
superiors in station, or whether they be so wedded
to their dollar-bags that dinner-giving and gaiety
might incommode them, it would be hard to say, but
certainly no cordiality exists between the classes;
and the latter seldom attempt the slightest hospitality
or politeness to men who in their interests are compelled to serve for years on one of the most unhealthy
and uninteresting stations w e possess.
Mr. T., the Navigating-Lieutenant of the F,'S;)ont,
was kind enough to put IH. and myself down for admittance to a reading-room, withl billiard tables and a
bar attached to it, called "The English and American
Club." It was well supplied with the periodicals and
newspapers of both countries; but not being able to
get. either luncheon or dinner, it was rather an under
22 
THE CORCOVADA.            23
taking to go there, as it was at least two miles from the
town, and three fiom the landing-place where we
embarked.  I visited it some three or four times, but
only saw one member, who appeared astonished at
a stranger's entrance, but who did not honour me
with either attention or remark, after apparently
satisfying himself that I was not likely to steal the
papers.
One morning, shortly after daylight, I walked to
the top of the "Corcovada," a small but exceedingly
steep mountain, from which in clear weather the
most perfect view of the harbour and surrounding
country may be obtained.  B., a Sub-Lieutenant, but
occupying on board the proud position of "First
Lieutenant" of the Roc'et, came with me, and after
being put down by a "tram car" near the foot of
the mountain, we commenced our ascent.
The path led in a zigzag manner almost to the
summit, by the most gradual of inclines.  It was
most beautifully kept, and completely shaded from
any sun by the trees, whose branches, covered with
creepers, orchids, and vegetable parasites of all
descriptions, met far above our heads.   A  deep
humming but not unpleasant sound, caused by the
myriads of beetles, bull-frogs, and flying insects, sc
prevalent in all Brazilian forests, accompanied us oI
our way, and occasionally a butterfly, of a size and
brilliancy only to be met with in South America,
fluttered gaily before our eyes.
Dense walls of vegetation, through which  occasionally we got a glimpse of the distant sea, rose
high on each side.  Palm-trees of every  variety,
23
THB CORCO VADA. 
THE TWO AMIERTA,S.
reared their tall and stately heads above the deep
masses  of green,  bending gracefully to  the sea
breeze, just setting in, as if almost bowing it a
welcome. The broad-leafed banana peeped modestly
from the jungle, and the tree-fern strigglede for existence mid the thickly piled masses of growth.  Huge
giant-like trees, towering above their fellows, were
covered with a profuision of creepers to their )iglest
boughs, from which they dropped in pendants, lilke
long leaf'-clad ropes, to the verdant depths beneath.
A faint odour of musk and orange-blossoms seemed
to float through the atmosphere, and the general
sensuous influence of the whole  scene made  one
instinctively long for cooling drinks, a grass hammock, and a firagrant cigar.
Half-way up, we  came to a reservoir, prettily
situated, and laid out withl ornamental skill of no
mean order. A cool and crystal torrent dashing
down the mountain side, taking its last plunge over
a large boulder of rock, was here arrested in its
career, and from six large tanks made to receive it,
conveyed through a covered aqueduct along the path
we had come up, to the town of Rio, a grateful and
wholesome supply for its many dwellers.
Farth-er on, we met a well-built and commodious
summerhouse, and from this spot the climbing part
of our ascent commenced. It was nothing very
dreadful, and we soon reached the top, 2272 feet
above the level of the sea.
Fortune had  not favoured  ns in the day  slhe
selected for our ascene. as a heavy mist dritting in
irom the ocean just as we arrived at the top pre
24 
Se Page ~2,'-.)
A   I,IVL[;IY   SAIIbON.
.1
.E)i
i  
VILLA ISABELLA.
vented our seeing much  beyond our own  noses;
and had it not been for the exquisite beauty of
the forest scenery wle had passed through on our
way up, our toilsome walk of over two hours would
have finished with unmitigated disgust at our bad
luck.
The city of Rio Janeiro being in itself somewhat
low and crowded, its suburbs stretch in many directions.  Among these, Tjuca seems the most favollrite
abode for business men, who gladly resort from their
stores and countirg-houses to its cool and shady
heights 3316 feet above the level of the sea.  Several
hotels are generally in the hot weather quite full,
and as there are chlarinirg swimming-bathls, and the
temperature is many degrees lower than in the town,
it is not surprising that the people flock there. H.
and myself went one afternoon, and half meditated
on taking up our quarters at "White's Hotel," where
we dined; I)ut I got so bitten by a vicious blood-thirsty
beast of a fly, called a "borrachluta," far worse than
either Canadian "black fly, oi Afiican "mosquito;"
and my friend, the capl)fail, got so badly-cooked at
dinner that neither of us w\as inclined to carry out
our half:ormed intention.
Owing to work that h-ad to be done on )board, H.
was unable to leave the ship for any lelgth of time,
and not caring to travel alone, having on a prior
occasion gratified nmy curiosity by a couple of
hundred miles' trip into the interior of the country,
I remained during our whole stay in the vicinity
of the town, amusing myself by drives on the various
tramroads which radiated for many miles round Rio.
2,5 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
Villa Isabella was one of the places thus visited.
An interesting drive of about six miles along a road,
at times abounding on each side with daintily laidout gardens and villas of the Brazilian gentry, while
at others, it passed through parts of almost primitive
jungle, affording a pleasing diversity of scene exceedingly chariming.
A  "matadero" which we passed, though hardly
embellishing the beauty of the landscape, was
singular in appearance and not devoid of interest,
on account of its entirely un-European-like character.  Long before we  reacled it, my  attention
was attracted by the thousands of vultures which
seemed to be hovering over one particular spot.
This turned out to be the establishment where all
the animals required for the use of the town are
executed. It occupied a considerable space, and in
places large heaps of heads and horns lay drying in
the sun.
The sky was darkened by these horrid birds, but
not the slightest unpleasant odour tainted the air,
though we passed sufficiently close to the ghastly
heaps to have easily found it out, had these hideous
yet most useful and necessary scavengers, failed in
doing their duty.
The town of Villa Isabella, except in being beautifully siiuat-ed, some height above the sea, exactly
resembled I)iclkens's "City of Salem."  Not a single
house was to be seeli, but a large plot of ground was
laid out and staked off for future building. The
names of the different streets in contemplation were
already painted in a conspicuous manner on large
26 
-~    TEMRE.2
boards, marking their position, and the distinct site
of every edifice in this most embryo of towns was
already most carefully and accurately put down.
It seemed to me that the ground selected was
somewhat swampy for building, but with regard to
effect and charm of position, hardly anything could
have been more perfect, and I have no doubt that
but a short time will elapse ere the young embryo
will burst forth in full life, strength, and vigour.
Rio does not possess many plaices of much interest
to the traveller. The Botanical Gardens are fairly
kept, and have a fine avenue of cabbage-palms, but
perhaps the market is best worth seeing of the whole,
though much necessarily depends upon the time of
year at which it is visited.
All kinds of tropical productions, and almost every
variety'of fruit, may here be obtained, but by no
manner of means for nothing; indeed, the price of
provisions, vegetables, fruit, and every kind of necessary, is most exorbitant.
A  small mean-looking fish, of dark colour and
about five pounds in weight, but whose Brazilian or
Portuguese name I forget, they asked 12,000 Reas
for (about 27 shillings), and most other things were
pretty well in proportion.   Tile prawns were the
finest I had ever seen, many of them being over six
inches long, and exceedingly delicious ill either
curry or salad. The small crab, with sharp spikes
on the shoulder of his shell, large prominent eyes,
and colour a light blue before boiling, can compete
for excellence with i.ts celebrated brother, the West
Indian land-crab; and the avocado, or alligator pear,
.THE MARKBT.
27 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
arrives at a perfection here not to be met with in
any other part of the world.
Some of the hotels had fairly good cooking; the
Hotel de Glose, where I generally dined, probably
the best.   For the rest of the town there is not
much to be said. Everything is exceedingly dear.
The beetles and humming-birds  exhibited  in the
shops you can buy cheaper in either London or
Paris. The best diamonds go to Europe, and those
exposed for sale are generally "off colour'd "and most
unmistakeably "Cape," and all things that are of
interest, as being either peculiar to Brazil or manufactured in Rio, are to be had cheaper out of it.
The streets are narrow and crowded, the places of
amusement, the Alcazar, etc., very second rate and
French, and I was not sorry when our visit drew to
a clos.
We had much trouble with the post-office people,
who were without exception the most utterly inefficient, useless, insolent, and ugly set of officials
I ever came across.  We  had the very greatest
difficulty in getting our letters from them, and the
cool  manner in which  they lied was  absolutely
bewildering.
The tidings of an insurrection stirred up by the
priests in the neighbourhood of Parahyba, and the
fear of a demand for an English war-vessel near the
seat of action, made us still more anxious to quit.
It appears thiat the Emperor, among hiis numerous
improvements and reformations, has encouraged and
fostered the growing demand for education among
the lower classes, which the Roman Catholic priest
28 
MONTE VIDEO.      29~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
hood have for so many years successfully suppressed
and neglected.   This has caused the latter gentry
to kick rather over the traces, which his MaIjesty
promptly endeavoured to arrest, by placing two of
their ringleaders, who happened to be bishops, in
durance vile, and has consequently raised a perfect
clerical wasps'-nest round his ioyal ears.
He has also, with the full consent of his people,
put the curb on maniy other priestly abuses far too
numerous to enter upon.
We were getting very tired of the place.  The
scenery was certainly very lovely, but looking
constantly even at tlhe finest harbour in the world,
with the thermometer at 85~ in the shade. and not a
breath of air before the arriival of the "doctor," a
namne given to a sea breeze which in the hot weather
sets in eyery afternoon regularly, is apt to grow
monotonous, and we were quite ready to clear out,
which we eventually managed to do on the 11th of
December, 1874.
Our run to Monto Video was for I.MA.S. Rocket a
good one, our best day bein)g 143 miles.
On the afternoon of the 19th, we sighted the low
coast of Uruguay, as it extended for miles and miles
in one unbroken plain, with a few ranges of hills in
the far off distance.  The land was thickly interspersed with cattle and horses, and occasionally a
low-built rai'ic/ie betokened the habitation of their
owners, but not a tree was to be seen anywhere.
After passing the little town of Maldonado, which
we did early next morning, we were fairly in tlhe
great river La Plata, one of the largest in the world.
29
MONTE VIDEO. 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
Rising in the far off Andes, 2210 miles from its
mouth, it wends its way through some of the finest
and most productive lands on the great continent
it waters, and debouches into the South Atlantic at
the part we had now entered.
The water became muddy and the current strong,
but the most singular and peculiar characteristic of
the river was the strange manner with which our
rigging became completely covered with long gossamer-like cobwebs, betokening, according to some
of the authorities on the sul)ject, the  close approach of the much dreaded'"Pamnpero."
On the 20th of December we anchored off
Monte Video, finding there H.M.SS. Amethyst and
Cracker.   A  considerable  quantity  of merchant
shipping lay in the harbour, many of them moored
close to the shore, while others were anchored at
least four miles off it. We were about to pick up
our quarters among the former, but the senior officer
in the Anietliyst signalled for us "to close," and
take up a billet close to him.  We had to obey the
order, and were consequently located at the inconvenient distance of almost two miles from the
nearest landing-place, though only drawing eight
feet of water.
Monte Video, a name taken from the small solitary
hill overlooking the city, is a clean, well-built town;
it possesses a few handsome buildings, and is laid out
in blocks on the American plan. The principal
streets have tramways in, them, the cars four horses,
and the fares moderate.
Why this system of cheap passenger traffic should
so 
MONTE VIDEO.
not be more generally adopted in our large towns I
cannot conceive, as, if managed with the smallest
amount of care, it would certainly pay the proprietors
a handsome profit on their outlay, and be a considerable boon to the poorer classes of pedestrians into
the bargain.
Th-e English merchants hleave a comfortable club
house, provided  with papers,  periodicals, billiard
tables, and a bar. They invariably invite all officers
of H.M. ships to become honorary members during
their stay in harbour, and the officers on the station
speak highly of their hospitality and kindness. At
Buenos Ayres, the same good feeling exists between
the classes, and it appears that only at Rio Janeiro
is there any difference of opinion.
In a handsome square overlooked by the club,
ornamented by trees, and possessing a fountain,
every night, from eight to ten, plays a military band.
The music is very  dreadfiil, chiefly consisting of
cymbals and big drum; but eis the people are pleased
and satisfied, what does it matter?
All the fair damsels put on their best attire, and
thus armed  for conquest in costumes varied and
numerous, bright eyes glance, and looks are thlrown
such as the daughters of sunny Spain alonie can
send, and it is with regret one listens to the final
crash of execrable torture, which  warns the  promrnenaders that the time has come for tl-heni toi return
home.
I had  intended visiting Buenos Ayres, but our
stay was so very short, and the weather so unsettled,
it could not be managed; so with regret I had to
31 
TTHE TWO AMERICAS.
relinquish the idea, and instead of taking my passage
in the Villa del Saluto, for the capital of the opposite
Republic, went with H. to the Hotel del Prado, a
few miles  from the  town  instead.   This is tho(
Uruguayan "Star and Garter," and was designed
and built by a German, who amassed a large fortune
in the country, and at that time inhabited it himself.
After his death it became an hotel, and is now the
chief riesort for the upper classes of the town to dine
and lunch at during the summer months.
The house was situated in the centre of a wellkept garden, and was approached by a handsome
avenue of trees; but the general effect  was  to a
certain extent mniarred by the quantity of execrable
statues in stucco of all the gods and goddesses in
heathen mythology, who displayed their misshapen
limbs and features on every pedestal and at every
corner it was possible to place them.
Next day I took the train to Santa Lucia, a small
town some twenty-five or thirty miles from  Monte
VAideo.  T''he engine and carriages were English, the
former provided with a cow-catcher, a necessary
appendage where the line is quite unprotected, and
cattle as numerous as in Uruguay.
After  leaving  the town, we  passed  for some
distance through the picturesque suburban residences
of the gentry.   They were flat-roofed villas, gaily
decorated with thl)e brightest colours, had pretty,
little well-kept gardens, with generally a statue or
large ball of coloured glass by way of ornament, but
which in reality spoiled, through its tawdry vulgarity,
an otherwise very pleasing effect. They seemed
32 
SANTA LUCIA.
quite toy-houses, beautifilly clean (outside) and
brilliant with paint, but fair too small to be compatible with an  Englishman's ideas of comfort;
indeed, by no amount of ingenuity could one swing
a cat in any of them.
The slowness of our progression gave ample time
for inspecting the country, which extended far as the
eye could reach in one vast gently-undulating plain,
studded with cattle or cornfields, but bearing on all
its uncultivated spots enormous crops of thistles
The abundance of this weed was quite surprising,
and consisted chiefly of two kinds-one a species of
creeper or undergrowth, and the other a large plant
over six feet high, bearing a head with a bright blue
flower on it as large as a moderate-sized artichoke,
which indeed i. greatly resembled.
Aloe, on cactus hedges were the only kind of
protection  the  fields under cultivation had from
cattle; and the corn, which was being gathered,
was taken without a particle of straw, which remained on the field, fine stubble over two feet high,
as cover for the partridges which abound here during
the season.
The soil, where exposed by any cutting, was both
deep and rich, and as from the excessive flat and
level nature of the land all kinds of agricultural
machines might easily be applied, any farmer with
skill and capital could shortly acquire a fortune, the
purchase of land, or mere rent of the farm, being
comparatively speaking nothing; and the soil being
so rich, that superphosphates, guano, or manure, are
things unheard of.
D
33 
THE TWO  AIMERICAS.
Santa Lucia was a scattered sort of place, chiefly
consisting of hotels. I got a fair luncheon at the
Hotel Oriental-a capital omelet and an odd-tasted
preserve of tomato.   The water supply for Monte
Video comes fronm here; but I was so plagued by flies
that, finding no good-natured MI(ses to drive them
away, I returned by the next train to my original
quarters at the other Hotel Oriental in the Calle
de Solis. It is a comfortable hotel, fairly clean, at
least in comparison with other foreign hotels and by
far the best in Monte Video.
Cleanliness out of England, or away from hotels
frequented and chiefly patronized by Englistmen, is
simply not to be had in the world. I have been in
many parts of it, entirely round, and ill most of its
corners, but have never yet met cleanliness of habits,
person, and habitations combined, away from our
egotistical selves.
Why this should be the case I cannot even hazard
a conjecture.  In some lands I have sojourned in,
cleanliness is a part of the inhabitants' faith; but if
they are clean in person, owing to the frequency of
ablutions prescribed by their religious tenets, their
other habits are filthy; while in others, the extraordinary value placed upon soap and water (for
outsiders) shows that at any rate they recognise a
virtue they do not seek to attain themselves.
On paying my bill at the Oriental I found I was
charged two shillings and ten pence for a very small
cake of scented soap, and three shillings and lour
larce a day for my cold bath.
Two singular and picturesque characteristics of
34 
TH  GAU7!TO.                     35
Uruguay  must not be overlooked.   Her military
officer, and her gaucho. The former is chiefly noticeable for the excessive pegtopiness of his trousers.
Red or white, they are alike bowed out to such an
extent by some virile kind of crinoline, that, either
coming or going, he resembled a young balloon,
which his very small feet seemied quite insufficient
to anchor to the ground.  His appearance, though
singular  and  almost  grotesque,  was  hardly  incongruous with the muliplicity of habiliments here
met with, embracing as they do every costume in
South America.
The gaucho really is a picturesque fellow, whether
mounted on his mustang in ordinary working attire,
his loose trousers fluttering in the breeze, his poncho
streaming behind him, as galloping in full career he
swings the lasso; or when, got up for purposes of
effect, hle comes into town a pompous dandy for his
three days' spree. On the latter occasion he is very
grand indeed.  His hair, long  as a woman's, is
carefully combed out; his poncho is of the finest
and most costly material; his sombrero of the
smartest and most cavalier-like style, and his saddle,
harness, stirrups and spurs, one mass of solid silver.
I have never yet seen a costume more picturesque and graceful, than that of a well-turned-out
gaucho.
Uruguay, though at present uncommonly shaky,
may one day become  a desirable country  to live
in.  Its climate is healthy and temperate, its land
fertile and cheap, and its chief products of hides,
tallow, cotton, and wool, much sought after, yet
D2
35
THE. GA UCHTO. 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
most abundant. All European fruits and vegetables
thrive under cultivation, and its water communication, both by river and sea, is almost the most perfect
in the world; and yet with all these advantages,
a resident of nine years' standing, a shrewd and
sensible man, singularly capable of forming an unprejudiced opinion,.told me that he would as soon
think of throwing spare capital into the country,
situated as it is at present, as he would dream of
pitching it into the sea.
Notwithstanding all its natural advantages, which
are numerous, it is so handicapped by a miserable
Government, that industry becomes  paralysed and
life insecure.
The people to whom one looks for protection are
the greatest robbers, and its rulers so many legalised
thieves. Discontent prevails on all sides, constant
rebellions are the consequence, and on either side
the foreign settler, like the man between two stools,
falls to the ground.
Should the party in revolt approach the Ranche
his neutrality as a foreigner is an unavailing plea.
The "he who is not with me is against me" style of
argument prevails, and his cattle and  horses are
swept ruthlessly away.   Should the Government
troops  be the visitors, his property  is quite as
certainly harried, on the excuse that it must be
prevented from falling into the enemy's hands. An
acknowledgment to that effect is invariably tendered
with a promise to pay attached to it, but as the
reimbursement is quite  as invariably refused or
indefinitely postponed, on the ground of there being
36 
WRETCHED MIISGOVERYIMENT.
no available funds for that purpose at present, the
unfortunate settler is bound to lose on both sides.
Patriotism  among  Uruguayan  legislators is as
extinct as the dodo in Madagascar, and each man
during his tenure of office merely seeks to feather
his own nest.
This state of things cannot go on for ever.
Brazil has had longing eyes on the rich provinces
watered by the La Plata, and ere many years elapse
she will certainly stretch forth and seize the ripe
fruit only too willing to drop into her mouth; and
the Uruguayans will surrender their nationality and
insecurity for amalgamation and peace.
37 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
CHAPTER III.
Leave 3fonto Video-Coast of Patagonia -- Port San Julian -Tild
ostrich-The Tchuelches, or nativesofPatagonia-Earlydiscoverers —
Stalking guanaco-Description of guanaco-A bad shot-Patagonian
partridge-Wild fowl-Wide-awakes-Tale of a skunk-Leave San
Julian-Possession Bay-M-ore guanaco and ostrich-Death of a
guanaco-A successful shot-Terrific effects of Express bullet.
ON the 23rd of December we left Monte Video, and
next day picking up a rattling fair wind, logged
our greatest number of klinots in an hour, i.e. ten:
a very unusual rate of speed for the old " dummy."
We were in great glee, and anticipated a wonderful
run to MIagellan. However, next day we had a gale
in our teeth, a regular "pampero," or violent wind
from across the pampas, and for the next four days
we were knocking about under close-reefed top-sails
in a heavy cross sea, that reminded us most unpleasantly of the weather we had experienced in the
Bay of Biscay.
On the 3rd we sighted Cape Blanco. The weather
was most unsettled; barometer low, and even the
standard compass affected to such a degree that the
needle jumped about in an erratic and uncertain
fashion, which rendered it most difficult to steer by.
The wind came strong from the south-west, and we
38 
COAST OF PATAGONIA.
shaped our course for Port Santa Cruz, to get shelter
until the gale should have moderated.
Next morning, on approaching the land, we found
that we would be unable to fetch the harbour, and
being utterly incapable of doing anything against
the strong southerly wind, ran up the coast for Port
San Julian, a well-sheltered uninhabited inlet on the
east coast of Patagonia, Lat. 49~ 15' S., and Long.
67~ 42' W.  The seaboard here very much resembled
that of Kent between Ramsgate and Margate. Perp3ndicular white cliffs, about three hundred feet
high, form the coast line, and where any indentation
occurred we were able to get glimpses of the country,
which consisted of gently undulating plains, covered
with short herbage, something similar at a distance
to park land at home.  A few small patches of short
thick scrub were the only cover, and not a tree or
mountain was to be seen.
As we neared the inlet, several distant mountains
of considerable magnitude appeared in view, all
singularly flattened out  at apparently  the same
elevation above the sea. Some extended in long
ranges for miles, forming l)lains of table-land on
their summits; while others ran up in c(liic;:l foems,
but with the apex of the cone cut off, to make a
diminutive plateau in uniformity with the longer
ranges about them: but every hill, no matter how
rugged or precipitous its sides might be, invariably
exhibited the same flat-topped peculiarity.
On the 5th of January, 1875, we reached Port San
Julian.  It was rather ticklish work entering  the
harbour, no chart of it being supplied, and the
39 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
weather still squally and uncertain. A long reef
uncovered at low water ran for about a mile across
the entrance. after which we had to work over a bar
of sand on which at one time the leadsman reported
only ten feet of water, i.e., one foot more than the
Rlocket's draught.
A heavy squall, against which the engines were
powerlesss to force us, suddenly broke down, and,
though not at our intended anchorage, we were
compelled to "let go" until it was over.
In half an hour it cleared up and we were again
able to get under weigh, and again a severe squall
compelled us to anchor before we had steamed two
hundred yards.   Again  we  made an effort, and
this time anchored off "Sholl point," so called from
a monument being erected there over the grave
of a lieutenant of that name belonging to a surveying ship.
The weather with unusual capriciousness suddenly
cleared up, and four ostriches being seen close to the
ship, H. and self got our rifles and set out after them.
The ground was most unfavourable for stalking:
we not knowing exactly where the birds were, they
saw us before we saw them, their long necks enabling
them, even when lying down, to command a very
considerable extent of country. They did not appear
much alarmed, and looked at us for some time before
they moved slowly away, leaving, however, one of
their number to keep a watch over our movements.
So unembarrassed, indeed, was their exit, that I
fancied, if we waited until the sentry had crossed a
little ridge to which he was slowly making, that by
40 
STALKING GUANACO.
running hard after he had disappeared, we might
get a shot at him before he had gone many yards.
We accordingly waited patiently until he had got
over the ridge, and then ran as hard as we were
able for our shot, expecting to find him close to us.
However, it was not to be, as, much to our disgust,
we saw he had joined the main body, who were by
this time quite half a mile away and still going on,
their long necks pokled clumsily out before them, as
they covered the ground at a pace which put all
idea of pursuit out of the question.
A little further on we saw a herd of guanaco, but
too far off to do anything with, and as it was rapidly
getting dark we retraced our way to the ship.  On
our way back I got a snap shot at some animal about
the size of a wolf; but he ran into some scrub, from
which it Wvas useless at this time of the night and
without dogs to attempt to dislodge him.
Though devoid of either water or inhabitants, Port
San Julian must always command a certain interest,
as being mixed up with the early discovery of the
country.
Magellan, three hundred and fifty years ago,
anchored at and named this port. Starting from
it, the pilot Serrano explored the coast to the southward and discovered a rinver, which he named Santa
Cruz, where also'he unfortunately lost his ship.
Magel!an remained at Port San Julian and Santa
Cruz friom April till October, 1520, when he sailed
southward and discovered the straits that bear his
name.  Two months after his arrival at Port San
Julian, a man of gigantic stature appeared on the
41 
THE TWO AM3ERICAS.
beach, larger and taller than any of his crew; and
shortly afterwards eighteen natives arrived, dressed
in cloaks of skins and shoes of gua,naco hide, which
made huge foot-markls, whence they were called
"Patagone's," or "Large feet," by the Spaniards;
and thus originated in a nickname, the name of the
country of Patagonia.
The "Tehuelches," or P.taIgonilns, have not by
any manner of means feet in reality so extraordinarily
large as those ascribed to them by the Spaniards.
All Indian races have naturally small feet; and
Musters in his interesting work states that on exchanging boots he found their feet to be smaller and
better shaped than his own. On certain occasions,
and in wet or snowy weather, hide overshoes are
worn similar to our galoshes, which so disenchanted
Leech's lover in Punlt/, that seeing his fair one's
foot-prints in the sand, —horrior-stricken he exclaimed,
"Beet, —crushlers, by Jove!" and fled incontinently
to distant climes; so might the early Spaniar;ds have
been mnistaklen about the Teluelches, and the term
"patagon," or large feet, as applied to the inhabitants
by  their early discoverers, really be a complete
misnomer, owing to the extra covering  on their
"potro" boots.
DIralke next visited Port San Julian in 1578, and,
curiously enough, as Ma'gellan had in this place put
to death two, and marooned a third of his captains
who had mutinied, so also Sir Francis Drake executed
MIr. Doughty, who chose rather to be beheaded than
to be put on shore.
In the year 1581 Sarmiento was sent from Spain
42 
EARLY DISCOVERERqS.
with t-o thousand five hundred men, in twenty-three
ships, to found new colonies in the Straits and Patagonia.  On his way back his ship was captured by
the English, the colonists were forgotten, and five
years afterwards Thomas Ct(tvendishi, visiting the
Straits, found at Port Famine twelve men and three
women alone surviving.  Starvation and disease had
killed the rest.
In the reign of Charles II. Sir John Narborough
took possession of the country near  Port Desire
in the inamne of the king.  In the eighteenth century
Byron  and Wallis visited  Patagonia, and  again
Spain made an effort to colonize;  Francesco, and
Antonio Viedina were sent in commlntd.  Antonio
selected Port S. Julian as the site of another colony,
and from it explored to the foot of the Cordillera.
No further knowle(dge was gained of the interior
until the survey of the Beagle described by Fitzroy
and Darwin, and lately the manners and customs of
the natives by Musters.
The morning after our arrival I started at daybreak, taking with me Martin and Major, the former
happy in carrying my gun and the latter delighted
at once more being on shore.
We had a long and tedious walk for many nailes,
over sandy and pebbly ground thickly covered with
small prickly shrubs and stunted evergreens.  I had
selected this line of country the previous evening;
having perceived from the top of a high hill that
it contained the only cover of any extent within
reach, and that being apparently rushy in places, it
might probably hold a little water.
43 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
The ground was covered in all directions with the
tracks and droppings of many animals.  I picked
up several lamellated shells of armadillo, and some
ostrich eggs, and though we saw no spoor of any
carnivorous beasts, we perceived most unmistakeable evidences of their occasional presence, from the
skeletons of guanaco, whose bones were scattered in a
manner that showed quite plainly what had been the
way they perished.
Finding that it was hopeless to continue in this
valley and that the rushes only grew in sandy
patches and were quite devoid of moisture, we
ascended to the higher land, and shortly after
discovered a herd of guanaco quietly feeding about
a mile off.
The ground was dreadfully unpromising for
approaching them; however, the herd was to windward, which gave me a slight chance, and, leaving
Martin in charge of my dog, I commenced to stalk,
crawling on hands and knees, and taking advantage
of every bush, though none of them were much
larger than a cabbage. Gradually and with the
utmost caution I worked my way within four
hundred yards of where they were feeding.  There
were ive females, four young ones, and one very large
male, whose head was fully nine feet from the ground.
Itie was a noble-looking fellow, large in the body as
a fair-sized cow, and meat enough on him for the
entire shlip's company, could I only succeed in
bowling him over.
I saw there was not a twig to conceal me any
further; so, taking out my  field-glass, I watched
44 
DESCRIPTION OF GUANACO.
quietly in hope that they might take it into their
head to feed up to where I was lying hid.  My rifle
was an Express, and very uncertain at anything over
two hundred yards.
The guanaco (Aucleniea Huanaca) is a singularlooking animal, and may perhaps be best described
by analogy. Thle legs are like a deer; his feet like
a camel, only very much smaller; his barrel (that of
a full-grown male) as large as a cow's, but resembling in shape a sheep, and covered with a long
light-red wool; his neck rises straight and somewhat
ungracefuilly from his shoulders, like a llama's; and
his tail is bushy, like a Cape sheep's. Their action
when galloping is clumsy, and though they cover
the ground at a great pace, from the straight and
awkward way they carry their long necks, which are
poked clumsily out before them, and their lolloping
stride, they appear to be going much slower than
they actually are.
They are, however, fine animals, not particularly
shy, and well worthl a sportsman's attention, though I
believe when mounted it is easy enough to kill them.
All this time the herd were quietly feeding away
from me, so my only chance lay in trying to wriggle
within shot.   I commenced  my crawl, got about
forty yards nearer, and was then found out.   The
does immediately formed group, placing their young
ones in the centre, and commenced neighing fiercely,
while the buck, detaching himself from the herd,
reconnoitred my position, neighling and chattering
most vociferously the whole time. The does then
moved slowly away at a gentle trot, halting from
45 
THE TWO AM1ERICAS.
tinme to timle and looking round, the buck remaining
well in rear guarding them from the danger, and
rather circling round, as if to get my wind,  evidently being bothered to make out what so unusual
an object on his feeding-ground could possibly be.
The chances are a hundred to one he never saw a
human creature before, the country being, as far as
we  could  judge,  entirely devoid of  water, and
consequently unable to support the wandering tribes
of Tehluelches who inhabit Pata(gonia.  As for vessels,
nothing but the stress of weather  whlile in the
absolute vicinity of the port would ever induce them
to call here.
The herd soon trotted away over the brow of a
little hill and were out of sight, and as my inquisitive
friend was about to follow their example, I let drive,
and; much to my satisfaction, saw him go over. He
immediately recovered himself, and, at a slinging
gallop, made for the herd, now some distance ahead.
My feet, unaccustomed to much exercise on board
ship, were blistered from my long walk; my right
leg, which I smashed two years ago, had broken
down, and I was quite unequal to following up the
wounded guanaco; however, I mustered up a "spurt"
for the occasion, and ran on as fast as I was able, to
cut him off; the rest having circled to my left, and
the buck being quite unable to reach them.
It was hard work, but I succeeded; and turning
away for a line of his own, he gave me two more
shots, at from five to seven hundred yards, both of
which I missed, and to my inexpressible mortification, saw him go away, slowly certainly, but still
46 
PATAGONIANV PARTiIDGE.
much too far for a cripple to think of following himn
up, and much to my disgust I hobbled away towards
the ship, not at all certain of getting there without
assistance.
On our way back Major found and put up some
very large partridges, one of which I managed to bag.
IHe was of a dusky-browvn colour, had short wings,
lonr, reck, remarkably small head, no tail, and about
the size and weight of a well-fed hen pheasant, and
proved excellent eating a day or so afterwards.
On getting near the coast, I pickled up a goose,
a few wild duckl, and several banduria, the latter
a large and handsome species of ibis; but I was
precious glad of a pair of slippers, and enjoyed my
bath uncommonly when I got on board.
In the afternoon a party went away with the seine,
under charge of the gunner; but not appearing to
understand the business they caught no fish, though
there must have been quantities about, judging fiom
the number of birds we saw diving after them, and
the shoals of porpoise cruising inside the harbour.
IH. and self, after visiting the seining party in the
galley, sailed down to a small island about five miles
friom our anchorage, which was literally alive with
sea-birds.
The quantities of wide-awakes even exceeded those
at Ascension, and anyone who has ever witnessed
the celebrated "wide-awake fair" at that most abominable of islands will be able to judge what numinbers of them must have been here. The ground was
so thickly covered with their eggs, that it was quite
impossible to walk about without treading on them,
47 
TtE TWO AMiEPERICAS.
and the skly was absolutely darklened by the clouds of
birds who, alarmed at our approach, were wheeling
and screaming in frightened circles round our heads.
They are pretty, graceful little biI(Ids; pure whlite
body, with a black cap and forked tail, about the
size of a golden plover, and have a flight not unlike
them. Their eggs, both in size, colour, and taste, resemble the lapwing's.  We took away about a bushel,
and found them excellent for cakes and omelettes,
as well as eaten cold, hard boiled.   They are a
species of tern, and it was interesting to watch them
dashing from a height into the water, throwing up a
splash like the rise of a large front in their headlong dive after their fishy prey. Another island was
inhabited by shags, both black and white breasted,
and quantities of geese, duck, and all kinds of wild
fowl. were to be found everywhere.  We killed a
good many different kinds during the afternoon, and
fired at a couple of magnificent black-necked swans
(Cygnus?igricollis).  On our way back, IH. landed
with the dogs to look for guanaco, and my feet being
still tender, I remained in the boat and shot wild fowl
of various descriptions as we coasted along.
Failing to get within shot of some guanaco which
he saw, he vented his rage on a skunk, which he
made Martin carry down to the boat, and as long as
I live never shall I forget the odour.  Major, who
was with him, had been permitted to retrieve it, and
smelt as badly as the "varmint" itself, and everything that even went near the brute became tainted
with its dreadful smell.
The whole ship stank, as he very foolishly brought
48 
LEAVE PORT SAN JULIAN.
it on board, and the galley retained its stench for
days, though carbolic and other disinfectants were
freely used. In the cabin we burned brown paper,
pastiles, and sprinkled carbolic acid. Poor Major
was rubbed with traini oil and sulphur, to, if possible,
deaden the smell; but it was weeks  before  the
"bouquet de sklunk" became entirely eradicated.
Eaily next morning we went after guanaco again.
H. got a shot, which hle missed, and they did not
come  near  me.   I was  much  struck  with  the
enormous  quantities  of huge  fossil  oyster-shells
which we saw everywhere;  on all the hills they
were strewn thickly, and even on Mount Wood,
nearlyva thousand feet above the level of the sea,
they were lying in hundreds; while in the sea, at
the very lowest water, we were unable to find any
live ones. *On the 7th of January we left Port San
Julian, and after experiencing all kinds of unsettled
weather, the wind  often  shifting  all round  the
compass in a single day, we anchored in Possessi( ni
Bay, off Tandy Point, on the 1Otlh of January,
about thirty miles from Cape Dungeness, and well
inside the Straits of Magellan.
The aspect of the country was somewhat similar
to that in the vicinity of Port San Julian, excel t
that the herbage was thicker, more luxuriant, and
evidently far better feeding-ground.  The land was
undulating, and consisted of a succession of small hills,
with occasional patches of what would be in winter
swampy ground, but which were now perfectly dry,
and only marked by the luxurious growth of grass,
which was at least four feet high in parts of them.
E
49 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
Not a single tree was to be seen, and far off in the
distance, across the pampas, were lofty ranges of
mountains flattened into table-land on the summit,
and of similar appearance to those we had already
remarked more to the nortlhwvard. IHI. and self went
on shore as early as possible, and after some little
difficulty in landing, in consequence of the long
extent of beach and shallow water occasioned by the
tide being out, succeeded in settling our camp for the
day, and lit a fire for the boat's crew to cook by
during our absence.
We had not gone many hundred yards before the
innumerable paths made  by guanaco  (wl-ose disposition in this iespect, i.e., that of following  a
leader on the line of maich, strongly reseimbles that
of shleep) convinced uls we were in a country abounding with game, and allnost immediately afterwards,
by way of corroborating the idea, we saw a large
troop of ostrichles, who were however far too wary to
allow us to get within shot.  As we went farther
inland guanaco appeal'ed all round.  Singly and in
hlerd(s tlhey were grazing in all directions, nor did
those whlo saw us seem particularly alarmed at our
presence, for, after having apparently satisfied their
curiosity by a prolonged stare, they  recommenced
their grazing Ias if nothing had happened to disturb
the usual serenity of their existence.
We got witllin four hundred yards of one herd
before they shlowed any alarm, and on lying flat
down were surprised at their actually approaching
us, an old male neighing fiercely, stamping his feet,
and always some distance in advance.   He was
50 
MORE GUANACO AND OSTRICH'.
much larger than any of the others and of a darker
colour, his head in particular being more massive and
coarser in appearance.
We remained quiet, hoping their curiosity would
induce them to come still nearer; but something
happening to alarm them in another quarter, some of
the herd took to flight, anrd fearing we should lose
our shot, we both fired, and both missed, when they
were about three hundred yards distant.
Men missing a fair shot invariably find an excuse
for their clumsiness, and I certainly ascribe the fault
to my Express rifle, whose shooting at anything over
two hundred yards is faulty in the extreme.
I aimed with the greatest care and caution, resting
on my elbows, and can only say that withl an ordinary
service rifle I have more than once put twenty shots
runnring on a smaller target and at a greater range.
An Express is the best of weapons for a short range
aIt dangerous game, but is not to be depended on at
anything over one hundred and fifty yarids.
On returning to camp for our breakfast, we heard
that another party friom the ship had been more successful, and had succeeded in getting a guanaco, and
catching a young ostrich alive; so sending some men
to assist in carrying it to the boats, we( started off in
an opposite direction to try our Iueck anew.
The game on our fresh beat was by no means as
numerous as on the ground w-e had tiavelled over in
the morning; and though we saw several guanaco,
they were generally alone, very wary, and seemed to
be young males, not yet sufficiently dignified to be
trusted with the duties and responsibilities of a harem.
E 2
61 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
After walking some miles without being able to get
close enough to risk a shot at any of them, we agreed
to separate at the foot of a range of hills, so that
by each taking a different side, one of us might get
a chance at the quarry disturbed by the other.
For over an hour I tramped along without seeing
anything except a couple of wolves and some foxes;
the latter were very numerous, and later on we saw
still more of them at all the harbours along this
part, of the coast until we reached Punta Arena.
The spoors of many wild animals crossed my path,
chiefly puma and wolf, and somewhat despondent
fLom our bad luck in the morning, and seeming to
starve in the midst of plenty, the traces of game both
from tracks and droppings being so very plentiful, I
was thinking of retracing my way to camp, when
through my glasses, on a distant hill, I observed a
guanaco feeding by himself, and on examining tllhe
ground carefully, found that it was tolerably favourable for a stalk.
Leaving Martin with my spare gun and Major,
I set off; and having taken bearings with great
care, managed mny ground so that I got within one
hundred and fifty yards of him, without either seeing
the guanaco or being suspected myself, and then lying
quite flat I wriggled on both elbows to a slightly
rising ground where I expected to get my first view,
and where I got it.
The ground was covered with small but needlelike thorns, which went thlrough my light tweed
shlooting-coat as if it had been paper; elbows and
knees were like a pin-cushion and bleeding frieely,
52 
A SUCCESSFUL SHOT.
but I do not think I knew it or felt the slightest
pain, as I watched this noble-looking animal quietly
grazing at little over one hundred yards from where
I lay panting with excitement and fatigue.
To get an inch nearer without discovery was an
impossibility, and not daring to risk a shot in my
present breathless and excitable condition, I remained
motionless watclhing his movements and llop)ing he
would come a little nearer.
He was feeding quietly, occasionally scratching
himself, but being almost broadside on did not lessen
the distance, and having quite recovered my breath
I raised myself on my elbow to take aim.
He saw me instantly, and uttering the usual shrill
neigh of alarm and challenge, half turned to where I
lay; the movement was favourable, and the same instant my Express bullet crashed thlrough his shoulder,
smashing the bone completely, but not sufficienltly
high to pierce the body or cause instant death; and
plunging madly forward, he galloped and stumbled
some five hundred yards down the hill, where he lay
down, and without a struggle permitted me to put
him out of pain with my hunting- knife.
Sending Martin to the camp for help, I lighted my
pipe and had a nice quiet sm-noke. Major, and the
dead guanaco, formed a picture in the foreground,
while far away in the distance stretched these grand
unconfined plains, extending into boundless sp(ace,
one great undulating meadow, inconceivable in extent
and alive with game.
Shortly afterwards I had the good fortune to see
H. and a couple of men in the distance.  I fired at
53 
TlE TWO AMERICAS.
few shots in the air to attract them, and was exceedingly glad when they joined me, not being at all
confident in " Mr. Martin's" powers of finding the
spot agtain, and not relishing the idea of being left
by myself half the night.
Ilaving cleaned the guanaco, which proved to be
a young buck about three years old, we set to work
to drag him to the camp which was about four miles
off, by a couple of dog clains round the liind-legs;
but afterwards getting more men, we slung himn on
an  oar and eventually got him on board, where,
minus head and interior, he weighed one hundred
and eighty pounds.
In firing signals, one of my cartridges in the shotgun burst in the breech, and gave me a nasty burn
in the wrist, driving in grains of unconsumed powder
in at manner which has slightly tattooed me for life,
and may in the event of a disputed identity help to
prove me-myself.
Having abused the Express rifle as a weapon for
guanaco-shooting at long ranges, I mrnust now testify
to its truly terrific powers when the bullet gets well
hiomnie, as it did in the instance I have just narrated.
On examining the guanaco next day, I was, astonished
at the terrible wouind produced by so light a ball,
the large bone of the shoulder just below the socket
having not only been broken to bits, but the pieces
themselves actually driven through the thick hide
(thinker if anything than a bullock's) on the opposite
side, where they camne through with the ball in
several small holes, covering a space a little larger
than the palmn of my hand.
54 
GREGORY BAY.
CHAPTER IV.
Gregory Bay-Camp out-Duck-shooting in the Straits of Miagellan
-A quiet little lough-Hard work for Major-Contents of the bag
Elizabeth Island-Sold-Upland geese -Santa Magdalena-Laredo
Bay-Black-necked swan —Punta Arenas-Don Enrique-Gold and
Coal-Friendly relations with the natives-Ladies of Patagonia Chus-Terra del Fuego-The Fuegans-A Chilian feed-Scenery in
the Straits of Magellan - Williwaws - Extraordinary growth of
moss-Ladies of Terra del Fuego-Seals.
EARLY in the morning of the 12th of January, we
left Possession Bay, and after passing through the
"first narrows,"-the country on the Patagonian
side much resembling what we had already seen,
while that of Terra del Fuego was more stony,
barren, and cheerless,-we anchored the same afternoon in Gregory Bay, and shortly afterwards II.
and myself, taking with us my tent and canteen
(both of which I can recommend if portability be an
object, though of course more comforts are obtained
by more weight), set off to camp out on the banks of
a small river some six miles from our anchorage, and
where we hoped, on the principle of the early bird,
to get good sport the next morning.
After pitching our tent and rigging up a sail for
a couple of the boat's crew, and Martin  and the
steward who remained with us, we collected firewood
55 
TEE TWO AMERICAS.
and dried guanaco dung, the latter proving excellent
fuel for the canteen stove; and, after a mess of
guanaco hash for all hands, turned in and slept most
comfotrtably, though it was blowing half a gale of
wind all nighlt. From the exposed position in which
we were placed, which enabled an unusually strong
blreeze to act freely on the tent, I was most gratified
at finding the next morning that it stood successfully
so severe an ordeal.
Next morning, a little before daylight, I sounded
the "rouse, and after a cup of hot cocoa, H. and I
started along the banks of the little stream, which
ran a few yards from our encampment. The country
we shot over consisted chiefly of a line of small hills,
making  a well-watered valley between  them  and
Gregory Range-a high and long line of mouIntains
some seven miles distant, rather rugged and precipitous onl the sides, but flat-topped, with apparently
table-land on the summit.
A  few stunted bushes grew along the coast line,
but nowhere else, the country being either marsh or
pampas, while the low hills were plentifully covered
with califate berries (Berberis axifolia), and  wild
celery, which afford at this time of the year the
principal food of the upland goose.
A bird so fed we discovered afterwards formed a
dish well worthy of niotice.
Little seemed to be stirring in the early dawn, and(
for the first half-hour a stray snipe, and a couple of
crafty-looking foxes returning from their nocturnal
rambles, were all we met  The ground was wellmarked with guanaco paths, though we saw nothing
56 
DUCK-SHOOTING IN THE STRAITS OF MAGELLAN. 5 
of them. Shortly afterwards we entered a thick bed
of long rank grass and water-weed(s, covering sonme
swamrpy ground, through the centre of which percolated a small sluggish stream.  Here the fun commenced, and for about twenty minutes we got some
of the prettiest duck-shooting, imaginable, the birds
rising singly and in pairs, and affording most excellent sport.
Major retrieved them very creditably, and after
picking up a snipe, and getting a few very long
shots at geese, we passed over a hill, from the brow
of which we saw a small lagoon completely covered
with wild fowl of all descriptions.   Sea-gulls and
wide-awakes hovered in hundreds over the water,
on whose bosom floated in stately pride two magnificent black-necked swans; while  nunierous flocks
of duck apd teal disported and plumed themselves
on its tranquil and sunlit depths.
A  more beautiful sight I have seldom witnessed
than this quiet little lough, so seldom  disturbed
by man in these unfriequented wilds of Southern
Patagonia.
Being pressed for time, we were unable to contemplate its charms for many minutes, and, rapidly
descending, soon altered its peaceful character by
rapid discharges at the geese and duck who  came
flying round us.  The edges of the lake were covered
with floating lilies, and as the ground near it was
soft minud, merely covered with a thick matting of
aquatic plants, which were only strong enough to
support a man's weight in certain parts, we were
unable to get many of the birds that fell in the 
THE T WO AMER[CAS.
water, the thin lace-workl of weeds preventing Major
from swimming. We constantly went up to our
waists through these plants, into the soft slush they
covered, but had some exceedingly pretty shooting,
which far more than compensated for our wetting.
Unfortunately we were obliged to be back at the
camp by nine o'clock.  Had we continued shooting
all day, our list I am  confident would have been
something worth recording.  As it was, our two men
were quite satisfied with their load; and considering
that we had some miles to marcl back to the camp,
and that we packed up, struck tents, and embarked
by 9 A.M., I think our bag, for a before-breakfast
one-consisting of seventeen ducks, three geese, five
snipes, five large water-hens (I1ulica chilensis), one
teal, and a grebe-was not a bad one.  Could we
have, picked up all we knocked over, it would have
been colnsiderably larger; but at any rate it is sufficient to give an idea of what might have been done
had we been enabled to remain for a whole day
instead of only for a few hours. On our way back
we crossed some plains quite covered with califate
berries; and saw several large flocks of geese feeding
on them; but they were much too wary to allow us
to get within shot.
The ship having dropped down from her anchorage
(close to a long isthmus at the head of the bay) to
pick us up, we passed through the "second narrows,"
some nine miles long and from three to five broad,
and went on to Elizabeth Island, where we expected
to get the creamn of Magellan shooting, but where we
were doomed to be bitterly disappointed.
58 
ELIZABETH ISLAND.
This island, named after our virgin queen by Sir
Francis Drake, is about eight miles long, and seldom
more than one broad. It is composed of ranges of
heights extending in ridges in the direction of its
length, thie highest hil], on the north-east side, being
one hundred and seventy feet above the sea. The
sides are precipitous, and at the time we visited it,
some half-dozen dried up lagoons constituted the
only signs of fresh water.  The hills were covered
with berries of various kinds, and wild celery grew
in profusion everywhere, affording excellent feeding
for the swans and geese who visit it at various
seasons for breeding purposes.
We heard such accounts of the number of geese
]killed here on different occasions by ships visiting
the island, that we went on shore regularly prepared
for slauglter.  We  brought several sacks which we
expected to fill-the ship's company, some of whom
had been here before in the Nassau and other
surveying vessels, knowing the capabilities of the
island, anticipated fresh rations for some days-and
visions of foi qras, which was not only to last the
entire commission, but to be given away wholesale,
crossed our eager imagination.
"L'honmme propose," etc.-the birds had all flown;
and these grand anticipations ended in our only
killing three geese.  We were just a fortnight late;
and the island, which appears to be inhabited in
rotation during the summer months by these different birds for a nursery, was  now occupied by
immense flocks of tern (the wide-awake), whose eggs
and young ones were in thousands at a point not far
59 
THE  TWO AMERPICAS.
from where we landed. We got enough fresh eggs to
keep us in omelettes, and to serve for other culinary
purposes for some time, but it was a poor compensation for our disappointment  concerning the wild
geese.
These geese, commonly called "upland," to distinguish them friom the "kelp," or coast goose, are
the very handsoiimest of their species; and though I
have shot many different kinds in China (which
abounds with all sorts of wild fowl), as well as in
other parts of the world, I never yet met any which
could compare with them in personal appearance.
Quite as large as the ordinary wild goose of Europe,
they are distinguished by a more gamey look, and
a far more brilliant plumage.   The head and bill are
smaller, the breast is covered with feathers very like
those on a cock grouse, and exhibiting the same
glossy sheen so noticeable in a healthy bird; the
head and neckli are of a delicate brown; the underneath pai-t of the wing pure white; the upper, white
and indigo black; the latter feathers in the sunshine
taking the brilliant colouring seen in the plumage of
a magpie or mallard.
Many other islands in the Straits of Magellan are
during the breeding-season thus occupied, and to the
innumerable foxes who trcqiient the mainland may
be ascribed the reason that the birds wisely resort
to those sea-protected abodes to escape their ravages.
Passing close to Santa Mlagdalena, an island covered
with penguins, and having traces of the recent visit
of some whaling or sealing vessels, whose old casks
and useless spars were scattered about the beach, we
60 
LAREDO BAY.
anchored at Laredo Bay, where we entered on our
first experience of wooding. A profusion of excellent
drift wood for firing purposes was lying along the
beach, and in a short time our decks were piled with
huge stacks in every direction.
The country here began to change in appearance,
and the first signs of wooded land showed themselves.
A large plain of high grass, with a few swampy
places in it, lay opposite our anchorage, and in it we
killed a few brace of wild duck and snipe. A mile
across it was situated a large circular lagoon about
two miles in diameter, on which were almost always
eight or a dozen black-necked swaTns; they, however, carefully remained in or about the centre. The
sides of the lale were partly wooded, and the scenery
very  pretty;  clumps  of timber  being  scattered
on the -hills resembling ornamental planting, so
admirably were they placed by nature with regard
to picturesque effect.  The ground was covered with
thick herbage well adapted for horse and cattle
pastures, and the sheltered little valleys running
towards the lake were covered with all kinds of
flowers and berries, chiefly black and red currant.
Outside these wooded and wind protected spots,
the country was bleak and desolate, and ran in one
vast undulating pampa  far away to some distant
snow-capped  mountains;   dreary,  uninteresting,
covered with patches of tussac grass and clumps of
moss, through which we sank above our knees, and
utterly devoid of game.
A couple of Chilians had in charge a considerable
number of horses belonging to the settlement at 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
Sandy Point which were being summered here, and
we also saw two encampments or "toldos" of the
Patagonians. They resembled gipsy huts in England
in shape, only guanaco hides were substituted for
the usual canvas covering used at home. Apropos
of guanaco, the one I shot at Possession Bay was
excellent eating; it had dark flesh, like Highland
mutton, and tasted something like veal. As fresh
meat was utterly unprocurable, and owing to the
steward getting drunk at Monte Video we had left
harbour without any sheep (a great, sell, as they only
cost six shillings apiece there), the guanaco was a
perfect god-send —  soups, steaks, haunch, hashed,
boiled and roast; in fact, in every conceivable form
we consumed our friend, and the dogs came in for a
share of meat and scraps which I have no doubt they
considered a very favourable addition - to their usual
diet of ship's biscuits and chicken-hones.
A severe gale of wind delayed us a day longer at
Laredo than we first intended, which quieted down
towards evening.  A  short passage of a few hours
enabled us to reach the Chilian Colony of Punta
Arenas, named after a sandy point near whicli it is
built, and by which name it also is not unfrequently
known.   A  Chilian  man-of-war,  the  C/Iaca)uca,
commanded by Captain Enrique Simpson, was lying
at anchor, being on her way to place some pyramids
for observation purposes on Cape Dungeness; and
her captain kindly constituting himself master of the
ceremonies, rendered our stay at the Settlement,
through his exceeding kindness  and  hospitality,
unusually jolly and pleasant.
62 
PUNTA ARENAS.
Punta Arenas is a penal settlement, but has various
colonists of different nationalities, all of whom are
given grants of land by the Government on declaring
their intention of fencing them in and undertaking
their cultivation.  This land becomes bona fide their
own property on these conditions being complied
with.  The inhabitants, a(ll told, nmuster about fifteen
hundred, and live in small wooden  houses  with
shin-le roofs.  The town is laid out on the principle
of all Spanish-American ones, and has places marked
out for fiuture greatness, in squares and plazas, but
whichl at present look somewhat straggling and
unfinished.   The  military element  consists  of a
small guard of soldiers; and as none of the convicts
are very desperate characters, and are allowed almost
perfect liberty under certain restrictions, and the
natives whlo approach the settlement for purposes of
barter are well disposed and friendly, their duties
can hardly be termed onerous.
The settlement is ruled by a governor, his
Excellency at present being Senor Doii D., a shrewd,
intelligent  Chiliani, who,  though  quite  recently
appointed, will, I feel certain, soon develop manny
resources at present lying dormant, having far less
of the fatal  Tmatana in his disposition than  the
generality of his countrymen.'He was exceedingly
good-natured, placed his house at our disposal, and
kindly gave us the run of his stud.
Situated in the centre of the Straits of Magellan,
and possessing a coal mine of considerable dinmensions (though badly worked, and at present producing
an inferior quality of coal) Punta Arenas may at any
63 
THE TWO A'lERICAS.
time make a sudden jump into prosperity. No shafts
of any depth have as yet been sunk, and there is
every reason to suppose that a stratum of superior
quality exists, should they but take the trouble of
working down on it.
Gold has been found in paying quantities in
nearly  all the small streams  in  the immediate
vicinity of the town, and the Governor showed me a
small portion, of great purity, which in a slhort time
he had collected out of one of them himself   That
other metals exist I have not the slightest doubt, and
should coal, which is of course the first qualification
towards success, only 1e properly worked, and prove
of a superior quality to that already produced, all
the other advantages to the colony will necessarily
follow;  and situated on  the high  seas between
Europe and the west coast of South America, a prospector could hardly pitch upon a more favourable
spot for an outlay of capital.  With the Tehuelehes
the colonists do a very considerable trade, the former
easily recognising the benefits of having a ready sale
for their guanaco skins and ostrich feathers; and
being quite alive to the advantages of breech-loaders
and gunpowder, over the bolas and spl)ear, are peaceable
and well conducted.  Both parties are amicable in
their relations and willing to conciliate, so that each
may obtain the benefit of trade, and a considerable
amount of cordiality exists between them.  Guanaco
robes are made out of the skins of the young guanaco
when they are only a few days old, the full-grown
animal's hide being in every respect as tough and
coarse as a bullock's.
64 
PATAGONIAN LADIES.
A large tribe hlad left the day previous to our
arrival, but a few remained either to complete their
purchases or to finish a quantity of skin robes, at
which we found some of their women employed when
we visited them.
They were slightly above the average heighlt of
European females, but  much  broader  across the
shoulder and back, though  without the slightest
appearance of being fat.  Their limbs were beautifully formed on massive proportions, their flesh hard
and firm; but their features were quite as ugly,is the
Southern Chinese, to whose low-bridged noses, and
ugly long eyes, their own had a remarkable simi
larity. Their hair was black and coarse, confined
round the forehead by a fillet, which gave the skull a
peculiar conical appearance; their teeth were beautifully white and regular; their skin a light brown; but
they were all so filthily dirty that it mnight have
been almost any colour beneath the mask of grime
with which they waere covered.  The children were,
if possible, more dirty than their parents, and more
unprepossessing savages I have seldom come across.
What their behaviour may be, away from the temptations of civilization and strong drink, I cannot
pretend to say; but all the tribes who visit Punta
Arenas, if they have any morality, invariably leave
it behind them.
Having arranged a shooting-party, for which the
Governor provided horses and a guide, II., myself,
the Chilian captain, and Dr. P., a young Cornishman in the Chilian service, started for the day; but
though we rode as far as the Rio Negro, with the
F
65 
THE TWO AM]ERICAS.
exception of a few wild duck and some banduria, we
killed nothing.
The  country  being  thickly  wooded  near the
settlement, we were obliged to keep for some miles
to the sea coast, where, as little in the shape of game
could be expected, our Chilian friends,  who  had
lately seen some Indian hunting at Rio Santa Cruz,
amused themselves in describing and illustrating the
mysteries of the Tehuelches' circle formed for driving
guanaco and ostrich.   When  completed  and sufficiently narrow, the magic  word caus is given,
upon which, with loud yells, the warriors armed with
the "bolas" rush upon their*encircled prey.  Our
horses appeared perfectly acquainted with this
familiar sound, as at each "chus" given they started
off at full speed, which was anything but pleasant
over the log-encumbered ground, as we were seated
in high wooden saddles, with stirrups formed out of
great balks of timber, each of them at least seven
pounds in weight, and much larger than a quartern
loaf. On emerging from the forest, we got to some
pampas land, which was covered in many places
with a very pretty evergreen, having a leaf something like a rhododendron, but bearing a bright red
pendulous flower growing  in  clusters.   Nothing
could be more ornamental or more adapted for park
growth at home; and as the weather here is infinitely severer than any experienced in England,
there would be little fear of its not thriving in
nmany exposed situations at home, where the more
delicate rhododendron fails to flourish.
In conversing about Patagonia and Terra del
66 
TERRA DEL FUECANS.
Fuego with Captain S., who having been lately on a
government survey of both coasts was naturally well
acquainted with the subject, he gave me a good deal
of information about them.
The Chilians claim both lands, and point to the
ancient maps  drawn  up by  their early Spanish
ancestors in proof of the country having been
formally annexed by Spain many years ago. For
similar reasons Buenos Ayres claims Patagonia, and
both nations pay rations of cattle to native chiefs,
whom they endow with honorary rank in their
respective armies.
A  Frenchman who commenced his career with
Jules Gerrard, " Thle lion slayer," had lately been
prospecting in Fuego and its neiglhbouring isles; and
getting some people to join him, had appareled them
in fantastic attire, and gone, after the bombastic
manner of his countrymen, to conquer or to die;
having obtained, by some means or another, immense
grants of land from the Chilian Government.
The inducements he offered to his followers were
of the most high-flown description, but the expedition
proved a fiasco, and, neither dying nor conquering,
returned to Punta Arenas, where I saw a couple of
his men loafing about the settlement, their chief
having returned to Europe with fresh schemes for
further development.
The Fuegans are mostly cannibals, and looking
upon Europeans not only in the light of enemies, but
also as game, have a double object in their destruction: firstly, in self-preservation, and secondly as
food. They are a miserable race, and inhabit a
F 2
67 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
country which, if judged by the outline I saw of it,
has but little to tempt the most greedy of promoters
for annexation.
Captain S. gave me an arrow taken by one of the
Frenchmen before alluded to. HIe had been attacked
by five natives, and had (so he said) killed them all,
but had been wounded by five arrows which had
been discharged simultaneously by his foes.  The
arrow I had was beautifully finished, the barb being
made of a piece of glass, evidently a bit of broken
bottle picked up along the shore, and fitted so as
to come out of the wood and remain in the wound
on the arrow being witlhdrawn.  The othler arrows
taken at the same time were almost all flint-leaded,
and from the extra care taken in the finish of the
glass one, it was evidently lookled upon as a great
advance in the warlike art.
The settlers at Punta Arenas seemed industrious
and contented, but even their little community had
gone through certain state convulsions, and about
twenty years ago had a revolution, in which they
killed their governor and the chaplain, and, placing
their dead bodies on a fire, danced hand-in-land
round the flames.
Having had many clauses, seen the lasso used by
our guide, and experienced thoroughly the discomforts of a native saddle and wooden stirrups,
Captain S. insisted on our finishing the day with wlhat
he termed the appropriate "wind up" of an entirely
Chilian dinner, which he provided for us at S('nor
Ballester's, the most original of Bonifhces.  Cazuela
was our "'pijce de re8istance."  It is the national dish
6 Q 
CAZUELA.             69'
of Chili, and a more excellent one I have seldom
tasted; and though Senor Bal]ester was more than
slightly inebriated, and showed his adherence to
liberty, equality, fraternity, and the rights of man,
as became the citizen of a free and enli,ghtened
republic  untrammeled  by social  distinctions,  by
insisting on embracing us all round, I must take
off my hat and do homage to his pre-eminence as a
cook.   Cazuela is a kind of " cock a leeky," only far
superior, highly seasoned, and eaten with its soup.
Another dish was a pie, with a potato crust, of
minced meat, chicken, olives, raisins, pepper and
spices, uncommonly good also, and the whole was
washed down  by native wines, agreeable  to  the
taste, and, leaving no ill effects the next morning,
were I presume sound in quality also.
Early in the morning on the 20th of January we left
Punta Arenas, and, by the time I found my way on
deck, discovered that a complete change of scenery
had taken place.   It seemed as if the ship was on a
lake, so surrounded were we on all sides by land.
The shores were thickly wooded and mountainous,
varying in hleight, from Mount Tarn, 2602 feet, to
Mount Sarmiento, covered entirely with snow, 6800
feet above the level of the sea, lying some distance
off in Terra del Fuego.  Thie view was exquisite.
The mountains, rugged and precipitous, took every
conceivable formn, and varied in aspect as each
yard we steamed past them disclosed fresh beauties.
They were covered with a variegated foliage which
somewhat reminded me  of the autumnal tints at
Killarney; the trunks of the trees showinrg, in a
6 9t
CAZUE, L.A. 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
white-thread-like and peculiar nmanner,  where the
biting winds had at some period checked the unldergrowth and apparently nipped the lower branches.
The summits were occasionally fringed with the
brightest of very bright green verdure; and in the
crevices, and on some of the highest peaks, the snow
still remained unthawed, though the time of the year
was midsummer. Nearly opposite Cape Froward, a
bold promontory of 1200 feet, we saw an extensive
glacier. Towards evening the wind freshening up
prevented our proceeding; and as a succession of
williwaw,s came on we anchored in San Nicolas Bay
at the mouth of the De Gennes River.
San Nicolas is a picturesque and well-protected
harbour, surrounded by high mountains whose
rugged peaks were covered with snow. A dense
and impenetrable forest ran close to the water's edge.
A  small islet lay in the centre of the bay, exactly
opposite the river, and, nailed upon a tree growing
in the middle, we saw several boards recording the
times it had been visited by various vessels.  We
got a quantity of drift wood similar to that picked
up at Laredo, and our seining party were particularly
fortunate, bringing over two hundred salmon bass on
board with them.  We tried to pull up the river, but
found it so fuill of old trees and snags that it could
not be managed, and as it was impossible to penetrate
through the entangled mass of undergrowth and
moss skirting the forest, but little could be done
with the guns.   We got a few shots at duck on the
river, the only birds worth mentioning that we came
across, though we saw some green parrots also, which,
70 
WILLIWAWS.              71
for want of better, make a tolerable pie.  We met
quite fresh footmarks of Indians, but were unable to
discover their wigwams.
Our next halt was under the lee of Cape Holland,
in Woods Bay; rain and williwaws driving us there
for shelter.  "Wil]iwaw" is the Magellan name for
the sudden bursts of wind which come rushing down
between the mountains.  They vary much in degree
of strength, but are at times so powerful that a ship
is utterly unable to resist them, and for sailing
vessels they are dangerous in the extreme. Fortunately the Straits abound in excellent and wellprotected harbours, where safe anchorage and shelter
can generally be obtained, and as those storms are
seldom of long duration, common caution enables the
mariner to avoid any very seri us damage, by taking
refuge in time.
Inside a belt of trees encircling the harbour, lay
about two miles of as likely looking snipe ground
as I ever walked over; but though we worked it
carefully, not a bird was to be seen. In some thick
swampy undergrowth I put up a brace of woodcock.
They were smaller than our English birds and much
lighter in colour, but had the same kind of flight, and
required very close beating to induce them to rise.
The depth of moss and luxuriousness of its growth
exceeded anything I had ever seen. All the small
shrubs were choked by it; fallen trees, so thlicklly
covered that they lay completely screened, and often
we went over our knees through the soft velvety
covering.
Lichens were equally abundant, many of them
71
WILLIWAWS. 
T-UE TWO AMERICAS.
thlrowing  out large letves like brocoli.  Quantities
of parasites, more or less resembling mistletoe, hung
from the various trees; and a profusion of edible
berries of several varieties grew everywhere.  Most
of the shrubs were in flower, and several of them had
delicious perfumle, whlile the common  fuichsia grew
quite luxuriantly, and attained  a size seldom net
with in Europe.  We left early next morning.   The
day wAas wet and misty, but what little could be seen
of the coast was truly magnificenrt.  Opposite Port
Gallant, on both sides of the Strait, it was exquisite.
Lofty and precipitous mountains, based with forests,
and capped with snow-black-looking valleys and
ravines-huge  boulders  of rock  and  precipicesglaciers-long, partly wooded islands, topped  with
plains of grass-rockly islets of different sizes, bare
or wooded, jutting out of the sea-and thie whole
marked by a variety of different colourings, so rich
and varied, that it would be almost  impossible to
even imagine a scene more full of beauty.
Off Rupert's Island, a ship's boat, with a crew of
Fuegan women, came alongside, evidently with the
intention of bartering their sealskin clothing. They
were considerably smaller than the Patagonian ladies
we met at Punta Arenas, of slighter make  and
different features; but, being in a hurry to get to our
next anchorage before the tide turned, we could not
stop to trade, and, as we took no notice of their solicitations, in a short time they shoved off.  Ihow they
came by — a ship's boat it would be hard to say; they
looked in good condition, and had probably eaten
the original proprietors. Cne woman had a terrible
72 
LADIE$S OF TERRA DEL FUEGO.
mnouth; as she grinned it extended from ear to ear,
disclosing a set of fangs capable of crunching anything; a more unprepossessing female I never saw.
During the day shoals of whales were seen spouting all round, and as from the winding nature of the
passaige wve always appeared in a lake of not particularly extensive dimensions, it seemned odd how
such  big fish could  inhlabit such  small  waters.
Occasionally we met seals and otters.  A large rock
near lWhale Sand was so completely covered with
the former animals, that it was only lwhen they took
to the water that we discovered what they were.
Some hundreds must have been on it. The fish
Indians wear  no  covering  but seal skins, sewn
together with threads of sinew, and, if we judge by
the readiness of their owners to part with them for
any rubbish offered in exchange, they must be easily
enough procured; as a matter of choice, they will
most likely prefer tobacco.
73 
7THE TWO AMERICAS.
CHAPTER V.
Boija Bay-Coast scenery-Wild geese- Puerto Churruca-Terrible
aspect of the country-The otter islands-Enormous bee-Mount
Burney-First view of the Cordilleras-Trip for a yachtsman with
a predilection for sport-Mayne Harbour-Puerto Buena-Alarm of
Martin at strange sounds-Quarts versus Quartz-Guia Narrows Chasm Reach-Quantities of seals-Grey H,'rbour-A tough old
warrior - A tempting river - I air my ro Is-Halt Bay-Island
Harbour-Fly-fishing in Patagonia a pitfall, a snare, and a delusion
-Sombrero Island-We get on shore-Gulf of Peflas-Utter ineffi ciency of the Rocket and Boxer class of gun-boat-Remarkable kelp
in Straits of Magellan-Massacre of the innocents.
O- the 23rd of January we arrived at Borja Bay,
the Island Bay of Byron. It is situated on the
northern shore of Crooked Reach, two miles to the
eastward of Cape Quod. At the entrance are some
small islands-the Ortiz Islets, or Big and Little
Borja-on the larger of which we found a wooden
cross, but without any inscription to say what it
meant. The shores are wooded with many different
descriptions  of trees,  red  and white  cedar predominating; and a variety of shrubs, most of tlhemrn
covered with  sweet-scented flowers, grow in wild
profusion. A bright and sparkling stream runs
into the bay near its centre, and a few hundred yards
from its mouth, but concealed from the anchorage
by a wooded hill, lies a small lake most exquisitely
74 
COAST SCENERY. 
situated. The mountains on its distant side rise
almost precipitously out of the water and are thickly
covered with trees for about half-way up; at the
head, a deep gorge led over the mountains towards the interior.  The day was bright and sunny,
and the reflection of the snow-clad mountains on
the smooth mirror-like surface of the little treeembowered lough, the perfume of the flowers, and
the caroling of the birds, exulting in such unusual
warmth and sunshine, combined to make a picture
quite fairylike and chlarming.
In the afternoon we rowed along the coast, finding
plenty to admire in the wonderful shades of moss
and lichen which covered the rocks to the tide-mark.
Every creek and corner formed a morsel varied and
distinct, and some of these little pieces of colouring
quite beggar description. The vegetation was of
rank luxuriousness, but far more beautiful than anything tropical, which, thoughl luxurious, undoubtedly
wants that exquisite variety of colouriing and depth
of tone so perfect in Magellan.
The trees in places grew overhanging the water,
which was deep enough close to the rocks, to have
floated an  "ironclad," and occasionally from  sonme
little precipice would project the gnarled remains of
some old cedar of gigantic proportions, covered with
mosses and mistletoe, and growing through them a
profusion of long, pendulous, bright magenta-coloured
blossoms, not unlike the foxglove in shape, flowers
of the prevailing creeper.
I shot a couple of very handsome geese, one a pure
white, and the other white body, black wings, and
75 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
grouse - coloured breast. We killed some woodpeclers anid several kinds of water-fowl, all of them
afterwards eaten by the boat's crew and pronounced
excellent, though I fancy a somewhat monotonous
diet on ship's provisions must have assisted materially
in disguising a fishy taste.  Mussels were in abundance, but so full of small pearls as to be almost
uneatable.
We made an early start from Borja Bay, leaving
at daylight, i.e., about 3 A. M.; our next anchorage
being some distance off. The scenery grew wilder,
and vegetation scarcer as we advanced, the mountains being only wooded at their bases, and all more
or less covered with snow.  We passed a mnagnificent glacier, running apparently into the sea; but
the weather was too cloudy to discern very distinctly,
and.the mist occasionally enclosing the mountains
prevented our obtaining a satisfactory view.
It was almost dark wllen we arrived at Puerto
Churruca, our anchorage for the night. The entrance
was exceedingly narrow, and we had almost to feel
our way in with the lead, a matter of no small difficulty owing to the extreme depth of water so close to
shiore.  Puerto Churruca is without exception the
most weird splot I ever saw; and Desolation Island,
wliich it is on, well deserves the name.  We left
"Nassau" anchorage at eleven next morning.  The
day was clear and bright; the scenery can only be
described as being terrible; and as we steamed slowly
throughl the narrow entrance, we had ample opportunity for looking about us.  Such a combination of
the horrid and the beautiful I feel utterly powerless
76 
TERRIBLE ASPECT OF THE CO UJNTR Y.
to portray, and no one but a Dore' could possibly
imagine, or a Bierstadt paint.
Precipitous mountains, towering one above the
other in indescribable confusion; the coast line,
slightly wvooded but steep and rocky; brilliant round
its edges with the deep colourings of moss, lichen,
and flowering shrubs so noticeable throug-h MtIgellan
where the coast touches the water, but they soon
become lost in a mass of huge boulders, entire]y bare,
which continue for some thousand feet above the sea,
until they reach the snow, which in its turn becomes
buried in the clouds.
Deep  and  gloomy gorges, fi'igltful  precipices,
black and unfathomable water, inlets and fiords,
scooped as if with mighty power by a Viril-ya race
out of the solid rock; glaciers, cataracts, and a scattering of. wild fowl;  group all these during some
nightmare in their wildest and most te(rrible combination, and you may form a slight idea of Puerto
Churruca.  "Right iii the jaws of hell rode  the
six hundred;"  and a very slight attack of "the
blues" might  have  led its possessor to imagine
we were steaming out of the entrance to the same
locality.
Sighting Cape Pillar, the south point of the
western entrance to Ma,gellan, and passing Westminster Hall and Los Evaangelistos, four sing,ularlooking roclky islets, rugged and barren, we bid iadieu
to the strait and entered Smrnytl-'s Channel, whlichl
separates a succession of islands of considerable
magnitude —Wellington  Island, one 1iundred and
thirty-eight miles long, being the largest —from the
i7 
THIE TWO AMERICAS.
western coast of Patagonia, ending at the entrance
to the Gulf of Penas.
The general features of the coast consist of innumerable peaks, bold headlands, and rock-covered
mountains capped with snow when anythling over a
fthousand feet high; all remarkably like in character,
and desolate in the extreme.  In the evening we
anchored at a snug  little billet among the Otter
Islands, opposite Mount Burney, a lofty mountain,
5800 feet above the sea.
These islands-evidently well named, the ground
being covered with the runs of the animal they are
christened after-are a pretty little group, situated in
the centre of Smyth's Cllannel.   They  afford an
excellent harbour, the anchorage being well  protected, and t,e holding,-ground in six and seven
fatlhms of water, clean and good.  They were fill
of sweet-scented flowering shlrubs, the fuchsia attaining quite a tree-like size. Our wooding-party got
some excellent fuel, chiefly cedar, and the seiners
had a fair haul of fish.  We killed some wild fowl,
and saw besides a variety of singing birds, and
several diminutive specimens of humming bird, some
of them quite as small as many of the same species I
had met in the Wrest Indies.  I also saw-and an
extremely unpleasant obiject I considered it as it
buzzed viciously in close proximity to my nose-an
enormous bee, quite as laige as a wren, and considlerably bigger than most of the hummring birds.
I had not the slightest curiosity to examine it closer,
and felt considerably relieved wlien it took itself off.
Oni the 27th of January, we left the Otter Islhands
78 
MOUNT BURNEY.
at daybreak, passingo close to Vereker and Foley
islands. The weather was quite altered, and, instead
of the usual misty covering to the mountains, half
obscuring their altitude, the atmosphere was  dry
and clear, and the view as we steamed along perfectly magnificent.
Mount Burney, covered with snow, was visible to
its very summit-a somewhat unusual phenomenon
in this cloudy locality; and as we progressed
further, we saw for the first time the magnificent
Cordilleras, standing in bold relief against the
bright blue sky, some distance in the interior.
Pinnacle upon pinnacle, of the purest white,
towered like clouds above the dark outline of the
nearer mountains.  The sea was smooth and landlocked; the numerous bays well wooded and bright
with the exquisite varieties of colouring, for which
the seaboard of southern Patagonia is so remarkable.
Streamrner-duck, a species peculiar to these latitudes
(Mficroptereus cinereus), and wild fowl, plumed their
feathers, rejoicing in the unusual heat and sunshine;  and enormous seagulls poised themselves,
motionless, as they watched their prey. The sides
of the mountains near us were rugged and torn,
streaked with silvery cascades foaming and dashing
over boulder and through glen; all these, with the
snow-clad Cordilleras as a back-ground, formed  a
picture once seen not easily forgotten.
Columbine Cove was our next halt.  We wooled,
caught fish, and then went to Mayne Harbour on
Owen Island, a most picturesque and lovely anchorage.   The day was dreadfully wet, and we had
79 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
reason to congratulate ourselves on the good fortune
which enabled ius to see the Cordillera, as had we
passed it in weather like we experienced afterwards,
one of the miost magnificent views it is almost possible
to conceive would have been lost. I cannot help
feeling that in this very feeble description of the
country we passed through there is a certain amount
of sameness of expression, and that each place I
attempt to describe has the never-failing characteristic of being lovely or beautiful. It would almost
be a relief to have to write of something flat and
uninteresting, but it cannot be helped.  The entire
scenery is so perfectly lovely everywhere.   Each
harbour visited, though possessing the same characteristics, differed so entirely in the grouping, that
though descriptions of re-occurring scenes may pall
on thle reader, I can assure him that witnessing them
would never satiate.
To any one with a predilection for yachting, a love
of nature in its most charming garb, and a fondness
for sport, I could not recommend any part of the
world where the three combined can be had to such
an extent as during a cruise between Monte Video
and the western entrance to Magellan.  Fromn Cape
Corrientes to Punta Arenas, a distance of over a
thousand miles, there is not a single harbour in
wh-cse immediate vicinity a sportsman, using his
yacht as a base for operations, mnight not obtain
shooting to almost any extent.
From the Rio  ecgro to Cape Virgins the country
absolutely swarms with guanaco and ostrich; while
to a naturalist a land so little known, yet possessing
so 
MIAYNE HARBOUR.
such mines of hidden wealth, would be a positive
Utopia. The climate is more than merely healthy;
it is re-invigorating and salubrious.  The natives
are seldom seen, but whlen met with are friendly
and predisposed towards Englishmren; and I only
regret that circumstances prevent my again taking
a cruise I can so strongly recommend to others.
After leaving Laredo Bay, the shooting becomes
indifferent, but the scenery grander; still, talking the
limits I have defined, no other part of the world
affords such a combination to a yachtsman.
AIayne Harbour, which has an outer and an inner
anchorage, is about a mile long, narrow in parts, and
has several small islands scattered about it, on wlhicli
were nailed the names of various vessels who had
visited it for the same purpose as ourselves i.e., shelter
for a night and filel; indeed, at every place we
touched, the wooding party provided sufi~cient to
take us to our next anchorage with scarcely any
consumption of coal.   Among  its recent visitors,
H.M.S. All)batoss's card was conspicuous, a large
board nailed to a tree on one of the rocky islets
announcing that she had been there about a fortnighlt previous to our arrival.
From a small lough, " Lake William," a stream
r     uns                into the  head of the bay, firming a   picturesque
cascade at its entrance. The rock scenery on the
small islets and shores was perfect. Growing close
to the water were many varieties of shrubs in blossom,
or with bright red and purple berries. Twisted and
crooked cedars, covered with moss and pretty bellshaped flowers, overhung the banks. Massive boul
G
1-, I 
THE TWO AMEERICAS.
ders, with every conceivable shade of mossy green,
front the lightest pale to the darkest olive, intermyingled with various lichens and ferns, lined the
coast; and to an amateur in artificial rockleries, such a
lesson from nature would have been invaluable. Each
creekl was in itself a study, eack nook a perfct gem.
It rained in torrents while we remained here, and
judging from the luxuriousness of rnoss, which over
the fallen logs of timber nearly reached a man's
shoulders, I should fancy that incessant rain was its
abnormal state.
The mountains after we left Maiyne Harbour became barren and rocky, streaked with deep fissures,
but holding less snow. Some of the headlands were
very grand, and one precipice in particular, rising
like a wall for over a thousald feet, was extremely
fine.. The wind was against us all day, and though
the distance we had to travel was only twenty miles,
it was evening before we anchored in Puerto Buena,
an excellent and well-shl-eltered harbour on the eastern
shore of the channel; beautiful, of course, like every
other anchorage we had visited.
Above the inner harbour a large freshwater lalke
empties itself by a cascade into a little bight at its
head. On ascending the mountains, I found that thlis
lake was but the last of a series of four others, which,
connected by a smnall stl'eam running over a succession
of falls between each of them, stretches a considerable
distance into the interior of the country, hidden in a
valley between the lofty mountains which  spread
away for miles from the seaboard.
Next morning, though the weather was anything'
82 
ALARMf OF MARTIN AT STRANGE SOUNYDS. 83
but promising, IT., his factotum Martin, and myself,
landed at the cascade.  We worlked the dogs over
some good-looking ground round the border of the
lake-(H. had a great, ugly, useless, long —legged brute,
called "Joe," that hle set great store by, and always
tookl with himi), —but without success; and finding
nothing on the lowlands, I determined on climbing
to the top of the range of hills to see if any game
lay hi,ier up.
The day was showery, and, disgusted with our bad
luck, H. returned to the ship, sending Martin on to
join me.   The sides were steep and  bare, and in
places our only means of ascent lay in the watercourses, where the tangled scrub and small trees
enabled us to crawl from plateau to plateau; tlhough
on gaining a couple of thousand feet, the walking
became Vasy enough, and we were able to admire
the magnificent view as it opened out more fully to
our gaze.
Loughs, woods,  snowy cascades, and rivers lay
in a vast panorama at our feet.  Miiles and miles
of unoccupied land, as far as the eye could reach,
stretched away into misty indistinctness; not one
human creature inhabited its vast space, and a couple
of eagles, soaring high, even above the snowy ranges
still above us, alone seemed monarchs of a land so
uninhabited by man.
Our solitude was occasionally interrupted by strange
sounds, which added to the weird aspect of all around;
possibly wild cats, or wolves.  On my asking Martin
if he heard them, I was a good deal amused by his
solemnly replying, "Aye, and I be thlinking the
G 2 
84              THE TWO AMIERICAS.
captain must a heard them tew; they be wild beastesses,
lions or bears most like, for he went on board uncommon quick, when he told me as how I was to go to
you."  H. had been chaffing him to such an extent
about bears, pumas, and Indians, that though in an
undeniable fright at the curious noises we both heard,
he jumped at a chance of turning the tables on his
master; firstly, for thinking so lightly of his personal
c(ourage; and, secondly, for leaving him in a moment,
of what he evidently thought considerable peril.  I
remarked he kept unusually close to "heel" for the
remainder of tlhe day, though he constantly assured
me he feared iothing.
We walked for three or four hlours after gaining
the first brow, over ranges of hills varying in height,
and making for the highest peak, found that the
same. mountain formation continued as far as we
could see.  With the exception of some small birds
like grey plover we met nothing, and sport being
so very indifferent, I did a little prospecting for gold
in the streams which flowed over masses of quartz
rock, explaining to Martinl at the same time that the
precious metal was found in considerable quantities
at Punta Arenas, where the river washed ground of
similar formation, and that where he saw quartz he
might possibly see gold also.
Shortly after, on lookling back, I found him
paddling about in a large splash of rain-water, which
had accumulated in a slight hollow on the mountain
side.  " Hullo!" I shouted, "what are you doing
there?  It's getting too late for dawdling."  "I be
a-looking for gold," was the answer.  "Whyli, you 
QUARTS VE:RSUS QUARTZ.               85
muff," I replied; "you are seeking in a splash of rain water, that did not exist yesterday and may be dry
to-morrow."  "Well," he sung out, withi a grunt of
discontent; "yoga said as how I mighlt find it when I
seed quarts, and I be certain shure there be gallons
here; but I iever does nothink rilght;" and lie
shambled on, much disgusted with my evident want
of appreciation for his talents as a prospector.
Leaving Porto Buena, we passed through the Guia
Narrows, named after Sarmiiento's boat.  They lay
between Hanover and Chatham islands; and are
about six miles long, and from one to one and a half
broad, except at the north end, where it is only two
cables across.   High  precipices, of from  two  to
nearly three thousand feet, were on either side; but
the incessant rain prevented our seeing as well as we
should have wished, though what we could make out
was extremely grand.  Off Innocents' Island we saw
several large whales, and shortly afterwards anchored
in Walker's Bay for the night.  The weather was
too wet and stormy to progress very far in such an
infamous sailer and steamer as the Rocket, which,
even in the smoothest water, was quite unable to
steam against the slightest puff of wind; so our next
halt was only four miles off, being at Molyneux
Sound, which we left the morning after.
The scenery was fine on the Wellington Island
side of the Channel; but on entering Chasm Reach,
it became simply exquisite.  The channel was  the
narrowest we had yet passed through, and, most
fortunately, the sea was smooth and the day bright
and clear. 
THE  TWO AMERICAS.
The sides were precipitous masses of almost bare
granite, trees only growing at the bottom, and along
the clefts which occasionally cut into the surface.
Cascades on each coast, like streaks of silver, came
dashing with- sullen roar into the sea.  The spirepointed summits  of  the distant mountains  were
draped in white.   Occasional glaciers, sparkling in
the sun, peeped firom their snow-enshrouded beds.
Quantities of otters and seals sported about in the
dark, tranquil, o'ershadowed water, and a couple of
small icebergs were seen floating slowly past the ship.
To add extra picturesque effect to this romanticlooking spot, we went to "general quarters; " and
the bright flashes from the guns, the reverberation
after each shot or shell, as echo upon echo came
ringing through the mountains, added considerably
to the charmn of all around.
Our destination for the night was Port Grappler,
but, owing to extreme darkness by the time we got
opposite it, we missed the entrance, and had to
renmain under steam until next morning, when we
anchored in Eden Harbour-an anchorage formed
by a group of thickly wooded islands on the western
shore of Indian Reach, about five miles southi of the
English Narrows.  The harbour was full of seals,
who played and tumbled  about in all directions,
occasionally jumping several feet clean out of the
water as they chased each other in the exciting
game of "follow my lead(er," at which they evidently
were proficients.   We tried hard to find some game
or wild fowl, but one wretched snipe was the sole
rewal'd of our industry. The seining party were
86 
A TOUGH OLD  WA12RIOR.              87
fairly successful, They caught several fish beside
the inevitable "bass," and among them a curious
little pig-headed creature (Agriopus  Peruvianus),
which I kept alive in a bason of water for some
hours before returning him to his native element.
After passing through the charming little archipelago of islands that form Eden Harbour, we came
to the English Narrows, with its lofty, thickly wooded
sides, and entered Messier Channel, a fine piece of
water, extending for a distance of seventy-five miles,
from the north end of the English Narrows to Tarn
Bay in the Gulf of Penias; free from all impediments,
and containing safe and convenient anchorages
throughout its length-an important consideration in
these latitudes, where for ten minutes it is impossible
ever to reckon on a contiuiiance of fine weather.
On the 6th of February we anchored in Grey
Harbour, two mniles east of Halt Bay, at the head
of Liberta Bay, and found it a well-protected
anchorage surrounded by high, thickly wooded hills.
At the head of the harbour, a channel afflords easy
boat passage at all times of the tide to a large freshwater lough, about two miles in length, into the
top of which flows a river of considerable size.
The lake was extremely beautiful; but though we
rowed nearly all round it and hunted in various
directions, saw no wild fowl except a streamer-goose,
who, compassionating with us on our want of sport,
kindly afforded us an hour's very fair shooting.
The old story of the Jack-snipe, who lasted a man
two years, and was eventually killed by a friend, to
whom in a weak moment he offered a day's shooting, 
THE TWO AM_ERICAS.
and Puncl's "Frenchman," "whose woodcock remained to himi for the season," rose vividly in my
mind, as shot after shot was fired by II. and myself
at this invincible old bird, who received our fusilade
with the most extreme indifference. After each discharge he simply dived, swam a hundred yards or so
under water before rising to the surface, and then, with
the most insouciant sang-froid, flapped his wings in
seeming derision of our efforts, before quietly settling
down'as if nothing unusual had happened. WTe fired
at least twenty shots at this invulnerable abomination whose only value was to the boat's crew-men of
"Jack Tar's" true definition for the word epicure:
"kind of beggars as will eat anything,"-before a
successful cartridge from the captain laid the tough
old warrior low. A. more unprepossessing goose I
never saw.  Its head was ugly and enormous, and
the thick matting of down and feathers which protected its body accounted to some extent for its
immunity from small shot.
Tempted by the similarity of the river to a fine
salmon stream in Europe, we brought our rods next
day, and diligently strove with small fish, which had
been taken the previous evening in the seine,
artificial minnow, and spoon-bait, to allure some of
the finny monsters who, by all the rules of similitude,
should have inhabited its waters.
The lake seemed formed for pike, or its opposite
numuer south of the Equator, whatever they might
happen to be, should our own fresh-water shark not
exist in propria' persona; and the clear sparkling
river dashing over its rock-strewn bed, with whirl
88 
FISHING IN PATAGONIA.
and foam, or gliding- dark, swift and deep-by the
black, tree-o'ershadowed, precipitous sides of the
stream, appeared absolutely created for some Patagonian fish, answering in habits to the salmon. We
trolled round the most likely parts of the lake, over
spots that a fisherman would have expected every
instant to have got a run, but without success;
and H. at length, disgusted with our bad luck,
landed to make a cazuela, and left me to try the
river alone.
The forest grew so thick, and the under-cover was
so dense, we were unable to go beyond the water
commanded from the boat. The scenery was exquisite, and the day, for a wonder, almost tropical.
The river, as far as we could see, ran in a torrent
over  crag and  boulder,  forming  a succession of
cascades'nd pools, until it became lost by a sudden
bend in a forest of cedar-trees.   The wooded hills
ran up on either side to a great height, and in the
distance a waterfall of nearly a thousand feet fell
into the river friom the higher mountains, whose
summits were covered with perpetual snow.
After a few casts in the rapids I got a run, and
before our luncheon was ready succeeded in landing
a dozen and a half fish about herring size. They
were shaped somewhat like a trout, but longer in
proportion to their size, had no scales, and were a
greenish colour, like the hue on a mackerel's back;
not bad-lookiing fish, and turned out eventually to be
)retty good eating also.  They were  all killed with
a small fish caught -by a seining party the previous
evening, which I mounted on a flight of hools with
89 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
a spinner; but I was a good deal disappointed at not
getting something heavier, as more  likely-looking
water I never threw a line across.
It was, however, a pleasant ouiting.  The  thin
cloud of blue smoke from our wood fire, the perfiime
of flowers, the warbling of birds, the splashing of
rapid water as it dashed over the roclks(sweet music
to a fisherman), the knowledge  that a chef was
preparing food, that the drinks were cooling, and
the magnificent scenery all around, unsurpassed I
truly believe, in the world, all combined to make a
"marked day," even in the eventful career of such
wanderers as ourselves.
The weather, which for a couple of days had been
quite delilghtfu], next morning charT,-ed to wind and
rain, anid on our starting, compelled us to put into
Halt Bay, only three miles from Grey HIarbour; a
short distance that took our "old tub" three hours'
hard steaming to accomplish.   Thie water here is
deep, but space confined; and before anchoring in
twenty-four fathoms, we were dodging about alternately from side to side of the little bay, and could
have easily jumped on shore dry-shlod.  The coasts
are lofty, precipitous, and wooded; and were marked
by a line of trees, torn in a lane from about half-way
up to the sea by some avalanche which had carried
them away bodily, roots and all.
Our next anchorage was at Island Harbour, on
the eastern shore, twenty miles from the Gulf of
Penas-a  small  but land-locked  anchorage, well
placed for vessels entering or leaving these channels,
and possessing good holding-ground, with plenty of
90 
FLY-FISHIN(G ILN PATAGONIA.
wood and water. Its position is marked by an island
a short mile to the southward, and near the entrance
are two small islets, called Brown and Phipps islands.
A bank or bar of rocky ground stretches across from
Phipps Island to the main on each side. Tempted
by the appearance of a small river at the head of the
harbour, I took my rod, and following the course of
the stream, arrived at a picturesque little lake overhung with trees, but having on one side a gently
shelving bank of pebbles and sand, which enabled
me to wade well out of reach of the trees, and fish
in comparatively deep water. A more propitious
day for fishing one could hardly have wished for.
It was cloudy, yet without any sign of rain, and
sufficient wind to raise a gentle curl over the water;
just, in fact, what a man would order were there
any choice in the matter. The water looked most
alluring.  Sand and gravel on one side, and deep
water with peat-like banks on the other; rushes
and lilies to afford shelter, and a strong current
of running water passing through the centre, carried
food from the mountains to the fish who ougyht to
have inhabited so fair a territory.
I worked for some hours with many kinds of fly,
and tried both natural and artificial minnow without
success. The streams also I searched diligently, and
at last was reluctantly compelled to admit that the
promising appearance of both lake and river was
merely a pitfall, a snare, and a delusion, and that
the angler has no place for his calling in the lovely
but deceitful waters of Patagonia.
The country was very lovely, but the ground
91 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
lying in ridges about a hundred feet high, the
valleys between them, being thickly timbered with
the usual amount of undercover and fallen trees
covered with moss, and which had to be got through
somehow, we found it hard work getting along; and
after beating several likely-looking covers without
seeing anything except a few green parrots, we gave
up all hopes of sport, by either land or water, and
returned to our floating home.
Next morning we again attempted to get into the
Gulf of Penas.   It had been our object to effect
this without any stoppages ever since leaving Ilalt
Bay; but again squalls of wind and blinding rain,
shortly after starting, compelled a premature anchoring on the lee-side of Sombrero  Island-a small
thickly wooded spot, with one very high precipitous
hill iin the centre, which gives an outline, when seen
from a distance, sufficiently resembling a man's hat
to warrant the island receiving its name.
The gale continuing, we remained here a couple of
days, amusing ourselves by catching some bright red
perch-like fish, which were excellent eating, shooting
a few small birds, and sending parties to cut wood;
and on the 13th of February we again made an
effort to cross the gulf.
Fate, however, as well as the wind, was dead
against us, and no sooner had we cleared the island,
than a succession of "williwaws" drove us back to
our old quarters under Sombrero.   As  we  were
coming to an anchor, the wind suddenly shifted
completely round; and the ship, as was constantly
the case, not answering her helm, we tailed, before
92 
WE GET ON SHORE.                 93
the anchor which weve let go could prevent it, quietly
on to the rocks. A kedge was immediately got out;
another hawser was fastened to a convenient tree on
shore; the ship was lightened where she struck, and
in about-five hours, with the help of a rising tide, we
managed to hawl her off.  Had there been a swell on
we should have found it rather inconvenient; as most
likely, in that case, we should have broken up and
gone to pieces in about a quarter of an hour, and
had to camp on Sombrero for perhaps months before
anyone even heard of us.  As  it was, we only
touched once very lightly, and succeeded in hauling
off with but comparatively little trouble, and no
apparent damaoge. Next day we again tried to cross
this troublesome gulf, which was rapidly becoming
to us what the Cape of Good  Hope was to the
"Flying. Dutchmban;" and again, after burning any
quantity of coal and wood, we were driven into
harbour at Port Ballinas, not more than ten nmiles
from Sombrero Island, and not over two on our
straight road.  I never remember a continuance of
more unpleasant weather-very cold and squally,
with rain and hail; and this, too, in the height of
summer, with flowers and fruit in profusion, and
humming-birds fluttering over the open blossoms in
every sheltered vale.  I wonder what the winter can
be like-cold, I expect, very.
On the 15th we left Port Ballinas, a swell, but no
wind, being all we had ag,ainst us; and at last got
fairly into the Gulf of Penias, after five separate
attempts, and bein)g six days doing fifty mniles.
Of all the utterly useless, makleshift, waste-of-money 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
ships, we have in the British Navy, these doublescrew coniposite  gun-vessels  of the  PRocket  and
Boxer* class are the most so.  They are badly built,
can neither sail nor steam, and are at times utterly
unmanageable, answering neither screw nor helm
when wanted to go round, and are even unfitted
for carrying the 7-inchl 62-ton gun they are armed
with, the concussion, when fired with a battering
charge,  shaking them  far more  than  they  can
properly bear.   Tile few  shots fired by  way of
practice once a quarter are all they can stand; but if
required for a bombardment, half a day's incessant
firing would completely knock them out of time.
As a matter of course, they were built for purposes
of economy, i.e., by way of utilizing the engines of
a very small class of gun-boat no longer required
after the Crimean War, by putting two of them
together to do the work of one.
Had the brilliant originator studied the fifth
chapter of St. ItLuke, and remembered the 36th and
37th verses, he never would have built new ships
for his old engines. As it is, his neglected religious
education has caused the country considerable expense,
and given our Navy the disgrace of possessing a
class of vessel like the Rocket, whlich took five weeks
going through the Straits as far as Port Ballinas
and the Boxer, who was ninety-six days going from
Esquimault to Callao. That the constructor should
b)e able to say "he never heard any complaints about
them," is more  than  probable,  and  very easily
accounted for.  Notwithstanding their utter useless                  * See Appendix A.
94 
REMiARKABLE KELP.
ness, they are the best commnands a lieutenant can
have; and as it is far more pleasant to be captain
of one's own ship, no matter what her defects may
be, than subordinate in another, no growl is ever
likely to reach their Lordships; and if the accommodation is pretty good, and the rate of speed only four
knots, except in very exceptional cases, what does it
matter? A commission can only last a certain time,
and going four knots, or fourteen, will not shorten its
duration, nor render the expected day of promotion
or orders for England one moment the sooner.
Before bidding farewell to these regions, I must
not omit to notice one of the most striking features
of the Straits, and that is, the immense quantity of
kelp, or sea-weed, which over the entire sea-board
envelopes tlhe coast.   Through  all the numerous
bays and channels of Tierra-del Fuego and Southern
Patagonia are to be found enormous fields of Jlacrocystis pyrifera;  many  of the plants attaining  a
length of between three and four hundred feet. On
shl-aking a bunch, which, as it is perpetually fouling
boats, anchors, and fishing-lines, I had to do more
than once, innumerable crustacea are discovered
adhering to its leaves. Cuttle-fish, crabs, small fish,
shells, sea-eggs, star-fish, holothurit, planarir,  and
nereidous animals of a thousand forms, all tumble
about together.   The leaves below the surface of
the water are so thlicklly encrusted with corallines,
their natural dark olive is rendered entirely white
with the delicate lace-lilIe tracery.
Amid these vast aquatic forests are found quantities of fish who prey on the crustacea, and who are
95 
THE TWO AM.ERICAS.
in their turn preyed upon by cormorants, kelp-geese,
seals, and porpoises, so that each gigantic bed teams
with life and animation.
Their advantage to the mariner can hardly be
overrated.  The sea inside these huge  masses  of
_/facrocystis pyrifera, in the  roughest weather, is
smooth as a mill-pond, no storm being capable of
affecting their tough but yielding beds; so that a
"kelp harbour" becomes a term synonymous with
a safe one. As buoys they are even more useful,
and no ship keeping the most ordinary look-out need
fear sunken rocks, even in chartless and unsurveyed
localities, every place of danger being distinctly
marked by patches of kelp.
Off Cape Tres Moltes, a bold and remarkable
headland rising from the sea to a height of 2000 feet,
at tlh southern extremity of the peninsula of the
same name, which we wished to get round, the wi,d
shifted, and for a short time we thou,ght it possible
that once more we should be driven back; but our
ill-luck at length deserted us, and rounding the Cape
we at last started fairly for Valparaiso, everybody
in the ship except myself being heartily glad to get
clear of the Straits, hard work and bad weather
having completely extinguished all traces of their
love (if it ever existed) of the picturesque.   Off
the Chonos Archipelago, we met with quantities
of albatross, and one day, being nearly becalmed,
caught eighteen in less than two hours.
The process of capture is simple. A stout line
and hook, baited with pork and floated with pieces
of wood, is dropped astern.   Should the ship be
96 
ALBATROSS.
moving,, it is necessary to retain in hand  a sufficient quantity of line to enable the fisher to play out
enoulgh to prevent the bait being dragged before the
bird, after ligllting in the water, has time to seize it.
On the albatross taking the bait, the hook sticks in
his strong horny beaklc, and after a good deal of
hauling he is landed on deck.
The largest I caught measured ten feet six inches
across the wings, and was as large and hleavy in the
body as a big swan.  The long pinion bones make
admirable pipe stems, the feet tobacco-pouches, the
heads paper-weights, and the bodies were invariably
skinned and eaten by the least particular of the
shlip's company, to whom nothing in the shape of
fresh food ever seemed to come amiss.
The slaughter of these birds seemed to act on our
fortunes.in a manner very different from the fate
which pursued the "Ancient Mariner," who "with
his cross-bow did kill the albatross, as after their
destruction we were blessed with strong favourable
gales, which sending us one hundred and sixty-two,
and one hundred and fifty miles in two succsesive
days, culminated in a run of one hundred and ninletytwo on the third, and landed us on the 25th of
February, 1875, at Valparaiso.
a
97 
TIHE TWO AMERICAS.
CHAPTER VI.
Valparaiso-Cleanliness of the streets-Powers of an Intendento Union Club at Valparaiso-The mountain of Aconcagua-Trip to
Santiago-A refreshment room ab:olutely worse than those in England
-Good-natured Chilian —Muzzling the priests-Fruit-Santiago-.
Santa Lucie-The Alameda-Plaza Independencia-The park The clubs-The fire brigade-The theatre-Chilian dinner-Pisco A large herd of sea-lions-Coquimbo-The Guayacon copper works
-Serana-The line to Ovalle-Mineral wealth of Chili-Gran Hotel
de Francia-Limari —Chilian country-life-Farming-The lasso Chilian mounted-A beggar on horseback-Compailia-Chili a well governed and progressing country.
THE  first view of Valparaiso on entering the harbour is disappointiig in  thle extreme.  A  steep
hill of bare red earth, on which are perched wooden
shanties, apparently  hanging  to  the sides of an
almost perpendicular mountain by scaffolding and
supports, are the first objects that catch the eye.
Sh-ould the wind  be blowing  off-shlore, clouds of
blinding dust are wvhirled far beyond the shipping
into the bay, covering everything it touches with
a thick coating of red grit, which penetrates like
-coal-dust thlrough the minutest openings, -and fills
-one's mouth, nose,  and  eyes,  most  unpleasantly.
The hill gives one the idea of a human rabbit-warren,
the habitations being so burrowed into its sides;
and the houses near the sea being hlalf-hidden by
98 
-~~~APA~IO                      99
the slipping, my first impressions  were decidedly
unfavourable of the most prosperous and important
sea-port of all South America.
On landing I was agreeably surprised to find a
street of fine houses, withl shops which would  i)e
creditable in either London  or Paris; while for
scrupulous cleanliness it infinitely surpassed either of
themn.  Two long streets, one of them  extending
nearly round the bay as far as the railway station,
are the principal thorou,ghfitres; and in them are
the finest shops  and  most  important  houses of
business.   Street-cars  run  through  their entire
length on tramways, and  are  fairly horsed and
runuierous; but decidedly the most striking feature
of the town is its extreme cleanliness.  On remarking afterwards to one of its inhabitants how much
I had been struck  by this unusual feature in a
foreign town, he irrformed me that it was entirely
owing to the caie and determination of the Intendente
Eclhaurrin, who, on t:king the reins of office, had
found the place as notorious for its filth and dirt, as
it was now celebrated for its cleanliness; but who,
by establishing a system of fines, most vigorously
enforced, aided by a keen personal supervision, had
succeeded at length in rnak.ng Valparaiso one of the
cleanest towns I was ever in.
The powers of an Intendente appear to be almost
absolute, and that such despotism should be accorded
to an individual in a republic appears to me somewhat incongruous; not that personally I object to it,
as, quite on the contrary, I think a little absolutismi:
a most admiiriable tonic, which, if only applied at home,
a 2
99
VALPAP,,AISO.
. I
..,::.1 
THE TWO AM3IERICAS.
where treason can be spouted unchecked in Trafalgar
Square, or park railings torn down with impunity,
would do an infinity of good; but it anmused me,
when I thoughlt of the so-called "Liberalism" of
Beales, M.A., Dilke and Odger; of a model Republic
got up under their auspices; and what it would
eventually lead to.
The "Intendente" is a kind of military Lord
Mayor, who has not only the entire control of the
municipality, but also command of the troops, and is
answerable to the President alone for his actions.
A  short time back, an inferior actor, an unappreciated play, or some other reason, caused a certain
amount of hissing to take place  at one of the
theatres.  Tlhe hissing was done by some young men
of the best Chilian families, but was none the less a
decided nuisance to the audience, from the persistent
mainner in which it was conducted.  Senor Echaurrin
immediately publishled a ulase prohibiting  hissing
at all.  7ext evening the young men applauded so
vociferously that the play could not proceed, and
Senor Eclhaurrin promptly ended the difficulty by
sending in a party of soldiers, who cleared them all
out and put them in prison.
He derives for the municipality, from fines alone,
chiefly breaches of decency  and  cleanliness, over
$80,000 a year.   He fined a doctor $;50 for not
turning out one night whlen called upon to attend a
sick person; and caused, or nearly caused, a stirilke
amniong their learned fiaterr)ity In fact, hle is the
Governor of Valparaiso, and he does govern it, and
right well to. He has converted the dirtiest town
100
.  0        i
- I  i. 
SATJ GO                     0
in Chili into the cleanest, and has given monarchists
a lesson they might well lay to heailt.
The consul (at whose office we found a large mail
waiting our arrival) was kind enough to get us
made honorary members of the Union Club, an
excellent and well-conducted establishment; and I
accordingly deserted the Rocket during her stay in
harbour.
One of the greatest drawbacks to Valparaiso is
the plague of dust with which it is invariably
afflicted.  From  the houses on  the hill-side the
shipping was at times hidtdeni by clouds blown across
the bay; and even Aconcagua, the second highest
mountain in the world- 23,910 feet above the level
of the sea —was seldom visible except throu,gh its
murky colouiing.  The time of the year,  unfortunately, was most ill-adapted for obtaining a good
view, and though  we could generally see  Aconcagua every day, the atmosphere was so heavy and
lurid with dust, that the view was never sufficiently
satisfactory to be termed a good one,  though tl-he
whole of the huge monster was constantly visible.
Santiago, the capital of Chili, is about a lhundred
miles from Valparaiso by rail.  The morning HI. and
myself started to visit it, the train was so crowded
with people returning from a course of sea-batlling
-Valparaiso being one of their only fashionable
watering-places-that we had difficulty in getting
seats at all, and then only in different secondcliss compartments; the President-I)-Don Frederico
Eirrazuriz-  travelling by the sanme train perhaps
making it extra full.  I was fortunate in getting in
101
SANTRAGO. 
TIIE TWO A.UMEPICAS.
with pleasant people, agreeable and polite. IH., less
luclky, fell in with a lot of mothers and babies, and
was half smothered by small children.
Shortly after leaving, a gentleman taking out his
case of cigarettes offered them to a couple of goodlooking ladies, and then commenced smoking without
any further permission, though the ladies did not on
this occasion join him.  The journey was to a certain
extent interesting, from the extremely high grade of
the line where we crossed a mountain range, but lay
throughl  a perfectly hideous country.  Bare hills of
rock and red earth, with a few stunted bushes or
prickly-pear, extended far as the eye could reach.
Occasionally a patch of cultivated land was to be
met with; but not until we reached Llaillai, where
we remained  twenty minutes  to  breakfast,  was
anything like  farming to be seen.
Having been recommended to breakfast here, and
having eatien nothling prior to starting, i was uncommonly sharp  set on  our arrival, and  rushed
with a crowd of others to the refreshment-rooms.
Alas! infamously as our own refreshment-rooms are
conducted, here was something worse; and, not
spcalkin-g Spanishl  very fluently, I found I had not a
chance withl ilie ravenous Chilia,ns, whio pounced on
everything eatable, like b)irds of prey.
At lI,st I succeeded in getting hold of something,
wIiclh on inspection appeared to be half-cooked hide
with ilie hair scraped off and a little fat left adhering.
I tried to cut it, but could not: in desperation,  I
adopted the national method I saw in use around
nme, of fingers and teeth, but failed rmost signally;
102 
MIlTZZLING THIE PRIESTS.
and before I could devise another plan, the engine
whistled, and hungry as when I entered the rooms I
regained my c!Lrriag,e.  MAy expression of countenance was possibly so unamiable, that a Chilian
gentleman remnarked lie feared I had not made a
good breaklfast; and entering into a general conversation, we had a long talk about the state of
Chili,  its  government, and  its  resources.   The
President being in the train naturally became the
subject of inquiries and remarkls.
It seems that he owed his election mainly to the
influence of the priests, whose nominee he apparently
was. On obltaining- office, however, his views underwent a sudden change, and he brought forward sonme
admiral)le measures for curbing the sacerdotal power
and obtaining freedom of religious worship for all
sects, colours, and creeds in Chili.  This in itself wvas
a severe blow to the bigotry of the clerical party,
who up to this period had been as intolerant as they
were powerful:  but when shortly afterwards, he
brou,ght forward a measure to subject the priesthood
to common  law,  viz., that if a priest committed
murder, theft, or any other misdelneanor, he was to
be tried like any other Clilian, before the "judge of
crime," their rage klnew no bounds, and every effort
was  ma.de to prevent  the  bill passing  through
Congress.
Thie warmnest supporters of the priests were the
ladies; and imany a senator, though convinced in
himself of the wisdom of the nmeasure, had little
peace in the domestic circle whlile the question still
pended.   One obdurate member, who persisted in
log
lp 
TIIE TWO AMIERICAS.
his determination to vote against the priests, was
rendered non-effective on the day that his presence
in the house was most absolutely required, by the
wife of his bosom admninistering, a strong dose of
croton oil; while another member wa,s locked up in
his own study by three strong-minrded femnales, wlho
assured him that tl,ey were quiite determined to save
his soul, and that go to the House he should not.
All these artifices were how ever  insufficient to
prevent the bill passir.g, and though  there is no
doubt buit that the clericals worked to the utmost
the Jesuitical doctrine of the end justifying the
means, and used freely and with the lisual uiscrupulousness of Rome whatever methods they imagined
would  gain their ends, the measure  was successfully carried, and the b,.oly fathiers became amenable
to the common law of their country.
After leaving Llaillai the ascent became exceedingly steep, the grade in some places bleing one foot
in forty.   On  the right-hand side we  passed  an
immense triact of perfectly level land, lying in a
valley  almost  entirely  cultivated  with  wheat.
Huge  unthirashed  heaps were lying on  the plains
waiting for mares to tread it out, such being still the
primitive custom on  tlheir farmns, thoughl  why  a
country, whose most important export next to copper
is corn, should still resort to siuch a tedious  and
uneconomical habit is more than I can understand.
I observed one small li(rd of alpacas in a field
near the rail, and occasionally herds of cattle and
horses; but the country we were passing thlrough
wvas evidently but ill-adapted for cattlc-brce(ding oIi
104 
ii
I,
~ )'                                                   1*
JIM  UFFELD,AN'  TlEM EIL'lb  Y VISIT'ING CAltD&
i
I
I
. 1 1 i
I
1, I 
I i I
i,,I
I.   i   I 1 
i  - I
i
.  i   1  1 1 I
I,
; I'
11
i,,
1,
---
-1
See 1)(t.(Ie II] 2.  
FR~~~~~~~~~iT.      1()5~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
any very extended scale, the south of Chili, about
Valdivia  and Lota, being the chief seats of that
particular branch of agriculture.   Apples,  pears,
grapes, melons, and peaches  were  to  be had in
abundance; but though the latter attain a fair size,
are perfect in appearance, and have a delicious
perfume, I never tasted one worthl eating in Chlili.
Anything more dusty than railway travelling in
this country it is hard to imagine.  However, our
journey was drawing to an end; my new acquaintance was a friend of the genial old Captain of the
Cl/acal),:co whom we had met at Punta Arenas.  He
gave me his card and insisted on our both dining
with him,  promising  to get  us  made  honorary
members of the two best clubs in the town during our
stay there; indeed, to my new friend Don C. R.'s
liospitali4y and kindness I owed an extra-agreeable
visit to the capital, and a considerable amount of
useful information.
Santia,go-perhaps best known in Europe as the
scene of that terrible fire in a church, where over
two thousand women of the first families in Clili
were burned to death- is a toxwn of about 130,000
inhabitants, and situated on a plain at tlhe foot of the
Cordillera  Mountains.   Admirably  supplied  with
water, running stieams of whichl flow through every
house, it has a pleasant general aspect, fi'om the
trees and flowers which this plentiful supply enables
people to grow in thle patio attached to all the houses
of the upper classes.
Santa Lucie, a curious rock, to the summit of
which has been constructed a carriage-drive, is one
].(115
r, P,, Ul T. 
THE TWO  AlIERICAS.
of the remarkable objects of the town.  From the top
on a clear day a chaiming view is to be obtained.
It reminded me a good deal of the one seen from the
roof of Milan Cathedral, when looking at the distant
Alps across the plains of Lombardy.
Though  neither trouble nor expense has been
spared to render Santa Lucie an attraction and a
success, the execrably bad ta,ste of the designer of
the works has completely nullified the object in vievw.
Tawdry statues, badly  miade paths, artificial rocks,
with labels onl them in badly printed characters informing the world in general  that this is "The
abode of bliss," "The home of love," or sometlhing
equally absurd, are the prevailing features; and a
general meretricious and intensely artificial appearance characterizes the whole affair.  It rcally i- a
pity,.as a tenth part of the money, exlpended with
only average good taste, mighlt have made the huge
rocklc a vely great ornament.
The Alameda, a promenade with rows of trees and
streams of running water, is of considerable extent,
and  adorned with equestrian statues of the principal lhistorical characters of the country. One of
O'Iliggins, a celebrated leader at the time of thfir
war of independence, is noticeable for the extreme
vivacity of thle gentleman on horseback.  lle is
depicted as  having just ridden down  a Spaniiih
standard-bearer, wlio  is lying under  his  horse's
feet, still graspljing the f-ilen banner; the reins are
on the horse's neck, who is rearing madly, while thb,
great O'Iliggins, with hands and arms elevated in
the air, one flourishing a sword towards iteaven, and
106 
PLAZA INDEPD.NDENCIA.
the other pointing before him, is, with thle widest
possible stretch of open-mouth conceivable  ill an
Irishman, calling (on his comrades to follow.
The Plaza Iridependencia is another fashionable
resort, being a large square, containing a frionta(ge of
the cathedral, post-office, some well-built slhops, and
a lhandsome arcade.  In the centre is placed a fountain, surrounded by ornamental trees and beds of
flowers.  The cathedral is entirely without architectural beauty of exterior, and the inside is equally
plain and uniinteresting.
On the site of the great fire, whlich did not occur
at the cathedral, as is sometimes erroneously stated,
but at a clhutrchl  a few hundred yards behind it, a
handsome statue has been erected to commemorate
the catastrophe.  Facing it are the new Holuses of
Congress,  Nearly all the buildings are one-storied,
the prevalence of earthquakes (there was a slight one
the morning of our arrival) rendering it iunsafe to
erect any more pretentious structure, though the hotels
and a few public buildings are exceptions to the rule.
Strieet-cars on the American system are in abundance; and owing to the roads being execrably kept
and full of ruts, are a far more colmfortable mnode
of progression than  ti'avelling in the twvo-hlorsed
hackney-carriagces, which jolt and throw one about
most unpileasantly.  The track thlrough the towvii to
the suburbs is between three and four miiles long;
the fashion of one-storied houses, all the better classes
having a patio, naturally extends the city over a considerable space, wlichl is otherwise out of all proportion to the number of its inhlabitants.
I 0 -i 
T0THE TWO AMERICAS.
Some of the dwelling-places of the poorer classes
were very wretched, worse thlan the most miserable
cabins in Ireland; still, on the whole, SanTtiago is a
handsome, well kept town, and may be fatirly coinpared with the generality of European ones.  If; from
their system of building all houses in one story, much
of the poverty of the lower orders is exp)osed to the
inquisitive gaze of strangers, we must not forget the
filth, dirt, squalor, and wretchledniess we  have concealed in all the back slums of our own towns, which
is probably greatly inl excess of anything to be met
with out here.
The Park was quite deserted wl-hen we visited it,
but possessed nothing attractive.  A flat badly turfed
piece of ground, with a few scattered poplars, a cafe,
and a pond of dirty-looking water, containing a steamlaunch and a fewv pleasure-boats, were the prevailing
features.   In the seasoni, however, it is different.
Handsome equipages, with really pretty and welldressed ladies, crowd the scene; and gazing at the
attractive features of the Chilian fair ones, you forget
the barrenness of thleir surroundings, their hideous
poplars, and the dusty park.
There are two excellent Clubs, "The Union" and
"The September," and each of them kindly made us
honorary members.   Tl]e  Uniion, which  faces the
Allame1a, is the most luxurious, and has a handsome
billiard-room, witlh five tabl)es in it.   The patio is
ornamented with statuary and trees; and a goodsized garden, with a few of tlle appliances of a gymnasiuln, stietchles some distance in riear of the building.
The cooking was good; but the constant succession
ios 
THE  FIRE BRIGADE'.
of solids, and the quantity of substantial  er7tees
which are handed round, is rather trying to the
novice at a Chilian dinner.  They certainly are very
heavy feeders; and had the old Roman custom of
serving out emetics at stated intervals during the
banquet been adopted, it would not have surprised
me. A few of their customs strike one at first as
being a little singular. Large slices of melon are
handed round imniediately after soup; an occasional
cigarette is tallen between the courses, and no win(
is drunk after dinner.
What volunteering is among us, the Fire Brigade
is at Santiago; and nearly all the young men, no
matter what their position in society may be, belong
to some such corps.  They elect their own officers,
under whose orders they drill, wear an attractive
uniform,.and are ready to turn out on the faintest
sound of the word "fire."  The engines are either
English or American, and are beautifully kept; in facet
"fire duty" is the prevailing hobby, and all classes
enter thoroughlly into the spirit of the institution.
Of all the different features connected with thlis
city, the Santiiganis have more reason to be proud of
thieir theatre than anytling  else.  A little smaller
than " Drury Lane," it is most beautifully proportioned, and exquisitely fitted up.  The tiers of boxes,
whiclh are open, are supported on the outspread wings
of angels;  the decorations are in admirablh, good
taste; and the furniture, such as chairs in the boxes,
ard faiutellil stalls, are most comfortable, and of the
vely finest worlmansllip.   The stage is amply proportioned, and I certainly consider that witlhout any
109 
THUE TWO AtEPtICAS.
exception the theatre at Santiago is one of the most
beautiful I have ever seen.  The exterior is quite
simple and unattractive.
Existence at Valparaiso must be somewhat monotonous.  In the morning(r we rode to Fisherman's Bay
bcfore breakfast and hlad a swim.  Once we had a
cricket-match, and once A. P. took me for a morning's paitridge-shcoting.  We  started faiirly early,
but tlhe ground was so parched up that nowhere did
we find the slightest particle of sccilt.  I shot a bird,
which Maijor saw falll on the off-side of a small ravine;
and though he made a pretty good guess at the place,
and went so near the partridge that at times it lay
under his hiid-feet, hle could smnell nothing, and at
last only blundered upon it by accident.
Business even appeared st,agnant.  The town was
slow].y recovering fromi  a commercial crisis, caused
by over-speculation in the mining transactions which
marilked the time, and vwhicl had been carried to an
extent bordering on extreme rashness.  Numbers
were ruined, and  the others, either hard hit, or,
rendered more prudent by the fate of their compatriots, viewed the miost remunerative speculations
with an eye of suspicion, so that enterprise and
capital were equally -lhard to move.
We had broug-ht an introduction to the Intendente
Senor Don  - Echaurrin, fromn Captain S., and shlortly
after presenting it were asked to fix any  day  it
would be convenient for us to dine with him.  A
large party assembled on the appointed da, a good
proportion of the fair sex being'  present, and, among
others, Setior Eehauririni's sister, Madame Errazuriz,
110 
CHILIAN DINNER.           ill
wife of the President.   Several  notabilities were
among the men, all being either diplomatic or legal.
The gentlemen wore frock-coats and coloured trousers;
the ladies morning - dresses, which however they
changed after dinner for the purpose of going to the
opera.
The dinner was like the generality of Chilian
feeds, namely, a great deal of solid food, commencing
with cazuela and melon.  Cazuela is rather a puzzler,
as part of a young head of Indian corn, which is
invariably in it, requires to be eaten with the fingers,
it being utterly impossible to get off the grain ill any
other manner.   I remember trying once to scrape
them off witlh a fork, and found a very pretty Chilian
lady watching me with a mixed expression of amusement and surprise.  "Well, you are a'Gringoe,'
she said,''to eat cazuela likle that;" so for the future
[ ate like the natives whlile I was in their country.
They are all very expeit with their fingers, and can
manage a knife for the purpose of picking up peas
and gravy nearly as cleverly as the Germans, wllo
are the best hands at the knife trickl in Europe.  I
shall never forget an'old German lady, with a face
like a baboon, polishing off, by the help of a large
dinner-lknife, a soft-boiled egg one morning at a tab)led'hote in Rome.   l[Iowever, we went through our
dinner very comfortably, getting, besides Etiropean
wines, two native beverages called pisco and chicca.
The pisco was excellent.  It is a kind of brandy, the
finer qualities being made with great care from particular grapes, and has a delicious flavour about it of
muscatel.
III
CHILIAN DINNER. 
TIIE TWO AMERICAS.
After dinner we adjourned to the opera, where
we  heard'Trovatore'  vey-v ftirly performed  by
an Italian company.   To  the Intendeute's box a
large retiring-room was attached, and between the
acts we were given tea and refreslhments.  In fGet,
for a republic, I was astonished to see the prominent
citizens going in for what in Europe we consider a
privilege and exclusiveness only to be afforded to
royalty.   Senor Echaurrin walked  back  with us
bIefore the opera was quite over, and from the way
he pitched into all the vigillantes we canme across, and
the life he put into what were at other periods a
somewhat phlegmatic body, when they detected l]is
approach, it was very evident that he constantly
kept tlemn up to the mark by personal slupervision.
I learned two things fiom my intercourse with his
Excellency not quite patent to me before-thlat a
republican is by no means necessarily a democrat,
and that republican institutions are far more despotic
than anythling monarchill.
On the 11th of Marchll we  left Valparaiso, and
after a somewhat rouigh time of it, during whlichl  we
passed thlrou1gh a larg,e herd of sea-lions, we arrived
at Coquimbo.  These curious animals (Otaria jubtata)
are to be met withl in considerable numbers all over
the Pacific ocee(in; and  in Ferrol Bay  enormous
herds appear to reside all through tl-he year.   They
vary in size from ten to eighteen feet, the males
hatving large manes, which flowing round their neck
and breast have probably caused the name of sealion to be given them.  The females have no mane,
and are ratlher darlker coloured.   Notwithstanding
112
4
I -' - I;6
:..i-. 
COQITIMBO.       113~~~~~~~~~~~
their formidable appearance they are perfectly harm less and at a distance are not unlike the common seal.
Coquimbo is a most uninteresting-looking place,
bei)g merely a few rows of houses facing the bay,
with a high background of rocks, sand, and brown
earth.   Not a vestige of vegetation is anywhere to
be seen: indeed, nearly all the northern parts of
Chili possess the same sterile features; burt, as the
land is rich in mineral prodtuctions, and has such
quantities of wealth buried beneath, it may be
conritented with its unattractive surface.   Metals pay
better than grain, and much of this wretched-lookin,
country was more valuable than land covered with
the finest crops.
A couple of miles from Coquimbo, in a little bay
of sufficient depth to allow vessels to load alongside
a wooden.pier, are situated the celebrated Guayacon
copper works.   The manager, Mr. B., was kind
enoigh to take us round and explain the process of
smeltirng, and the qualities of the different piles of
rough ore waiting for the fiurnace.   Much of this
ore differed in quality and character, so that a
"charge" of the one differed very materially from a
"charge" of the other.  This term is applied to the
mixture of ores when prepared for the furnace in the
proper proportions, found, by previous experiments
in the laboratory attached to the works, to be best
adapted for producing pure metal.  In all of them
the mixture differs; alld I noticed that among some
were placed considerable quantities of slag, to assist in
the development required. Some of the ores underwent quite a different treatment, and were, after a
I
113
COQUIMBO. 
4THE TTVO AMERICAS.
process of pounding, suibmitfed to the action of
sulphuric acid in a large bath; however, it is not
my intention to enter on a critical dissertation on
copper smelting, beyond saying that the process
is  interesting  to a visitor,  and  particularly remunerative to the proprietors.
Two Cliilian gentlemen, Messrs. Urmaneta and
Errazuriz are the joint owners of these valuable
works;  and  though  they  purchase  considerable
quantities of rough oie, by far the greater portion of
copper smelted is produced from their own mines.
They also possess coal, which, though of inferior
quality for mercantile purposes (the stuff I saw at
Guayacon being mere dust), is sufficiently inflammable
to smelt their metal, and must of course be an
enormous advantage in works like these.
Nearly opposite Coquimbo, and about seven miles
across the bay, lies the town of Serana, to which
indeed Coquimbo  is but the seaport.   After the
latter wretched place, Serana looks lovely.  It is a
quiet little town, built entirely of adobe, and kept
very clean.   The alanteda is more than a mile long
and leads almost to the sea, having a greater portion
of the way a row of poplars on each side. The plaza
has a fountain, surrounded by a small garden in
which were some very fine roses and carnations;
a few trees grew round it, among which I noticed a
fair-sized magtolia.
Having heard that pretty good partridge-shooting
was to be had more in the interior of the country,
H. and I procured a letter of introduction to a
Chlilian gentleman, Don it., and, taking Major, started
114 
THE LINE TO OVALLE.
by train to Ovalle, a town about sixty miles from
the coast, and near which was the estate we were
going to visit.
The line ran over the mountains, in the highest
part two thousand feet above the sea, and the driver
being an Englishman we availed ourselves of his
offer of a -seat on the engine to see better some of
the steepest grades. The first five-and-twenty miles
of our road ran through fairly level land, cultivated
in the vicinity of the town wherever irrigation
could be brought to bear;  but as we got further
tillage became less, and at last disappeared entirely.
The characteristics of the country always maintained
the same uniform appearance common to the north of
Chili; namely ranges of hills in all directions, among
which we seemed to wind in and out; pa,rched-up
plains, and bare red hills of earth, covered with rocks,
cacti, and prickly pear.
The actual ascent of the mountains is by a zigzag
road, in places having a grade of one foot in twentyfour.   It, was curious to watch from the engine the
road we had travelled over lying beneath us; the
one we had still to pass being close over our heads.
The driver, a most intelligent man, pointed out all
the places of interest we passed; showed us several
copper mines just visible on the distant hills, and was
in fact to his line the pleasant, communicative, well
informed guide, that long ago was four d in the
driver and guard of the old mail coach.   Coming to
Chili originally as a fireman in one of the Pacific
steamers, he soon gave it up for his present billet
and has, I take it, as easy and pleasant a life as could
I 2
113 
THE TWO A1IERICAS.
well fall to the lot of a working man. About six
hours' driving a day, no nightwork, no work on
Sundays, and ~20 a month pay.
One cannot help being struck by the apparent
vastness of mineral wealth in Chili.   Fresh copper
and silver mines are daily being discovered, and as
the network of railways which are gradually being
pushed throughl the country open up and develop
its resources, so will its immense mineral wealth
expand and create for itself fresh outlets to the
European mnaret; and ere many years elapse, Chili
will become the great copper emporium for the
world.   Several of the ores I saw contained eighty
per cent. of pure metal; one specimen ran as highll as
ninety, and as most of these rich veins run close to
the surface, and are to be got at with but little labour
or expense, I fear the good times for the Cornish
proprietors may be considered as having past.
The railway station at Ovalle is about three miles
fiom the town.   The road leading to it is steep and
dusty.   Carriages being in attendance, we hired a
ricketty conveyance, with three horses harnessed
abreast, to take us there.   Some of the private carriages had four horses harnessed in the same manner.
All small towns in Chili are so much  alike, that
describing tlhem becomes miere repetition.  All are
built of adobe  (large sun-dried mud bricks) constructed in blocks, have single-storied houses, the
better cliss with a pgatio; a cathedral, a plaza, or
large square with a fountain in the centre of it, and
an ala(meda somewhere, and to this general description O)valle was not dissimilar.
116 
LI]!ARL                  17
We put up at the "Gran Hotel de Francia," kept
by Senor Juan Christian, a Frenchman of wandering
disposition, who appeared to have been kicked all
over the world in his search for gold.  He  had
picked up English at the diggings in Australia, and
further perfected his education in California by
learning to swear;  and  as his conversation  was
fieely interlarded with expletives more forceable than
polite, the natives who could partly understand him
must have had a queer idea of our national tongue.
A surveying party who had been prospecting for
gold  in the Andes,  and were now  going  south
to work a rich quartz deposit, were staying at the
hotel. What their nationalities were it would be
difficult to guess; but all spoke English, and had
been much about the world. One of them informed
us he hag been a lieutenant in the Royal Navy; but
he told us so many other curious things at the same
time, it became utterly impossible to separate fact
from fiction, so we took the whole as the workings of
a somewhat heated imagination. In California he
had grown beetrioot, one plant of which four men
were unable to lift from the ground after it had been
dug up.  In British Columbia he had chased deer
with a steamboat among the numerous islands of
the Gulf of Georgia; while, in Vancouver, he had
hunted salmon up the small creeks in such numbers,
that on arriving at the end they all jumped on shore
to avoid capture.
We drove to Limari, and presented our letter
to Don R., who most kindly pressed us to stay.
Learning, however, that his house was overfull for
117
II-IRABI. 
118          THE TWO AMERICAS.
the night, we determined on returning to the hotel,
Don R. promising that early next morning we should
be provided with horses and a guide to take us to
the most likely parts of his estate for partridge, and
that he would afterwards send for our luggage.
No Chiilian has the slightest idea of the value of
time, and it was nearly twelve o'clock before the guide
and horses put in an appearance- quite too late for
any shooting. Even had we been ardent enough to
have ventured, the birds, more sensible, would have
declined rising. During the heat of the day you
may kick a partridge before he will take wing in
this part of the world. Our guide took us a long
ride in the evening, but not a partridge did we come
across, nor any kind of game.
On our return to the house we found that Don
R.'s friends had departed, that our traps had arrived,
and that comfortable quarters had been found for us
in a bedroom overlookling the farm, having a small
sitting-room attached to it.
A large party assembled at mealtimes, the head
farm-servants messing with the family.  I was much
amused one evening, when twelve of us were seated
round the table, at number thirteen coming in rather
late, and being laughingly packed off to find someone
else to enter with him, or to eat his dinner elsewhere.
I had often heard that thirteen was an unlucky number,
but this was the first time I had ever seen summary
justice dealt out to the individual that made it.
Next morning, with a fresh guide, an old French
gardener devoted to "la chaw?," we  again  tried
our luck, but only killed a brace of banduria and a 
CHILI.4N COUNTR  Y LIFE.
couple of dozen tortolita, not having even seen a
partridge.  The tortolita-shooting was rather good,
as they were very numerous and are a quick-flying
bird, not easily to be hit.  They belong to the dove
tribe, and are excellent eating; much better than
the partridge, which are dry and tasteless. The
immense number of hawks and kites we saw everywhere, fully accounted for the scarcity of gatme, and
I only wondered how any birds could exist wheie
these latter pests were in such abundance.
Giving up all idea of shooting, we devoted the
remainder of our time to riding about the property,
and indulging in the dolce fa(r niente which forms
no inconsiderable portion of life in Chili.
The farm, which was of considerable size, having
a large proportion of acres under actual cultivation,
chiefly produced wheat  and  cattle.   Charmingly
situated on a level plain between two high moulntains, through which ran a sparkling little river, it
was also supplied by the hills on each side of it with
an extra quantity of water, thus enabling the owner
to completely irrigate every foot of his land. The
great scarcity of moisture, and the entire absence of
rain except at certain seasons, is what makes the
country at this time of the year so arid and bare of
natural vegetation. In the winter, and after the
rains, these apparent deserts are clad with wild
flowers and a redundancy of verdure, and even the
barren hills of Coquimbo are carpeted with nature's
loveliest garb.
Where an ample supply of water can be commanded, everything will grow that is simply put
119 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
into the ground.  Manuring land is a thing unheard
of, the natural richness of the soil being so great, that
suchl  a process would be merely time lost.  Farm
labour is from eighteen pence to two shillings a day.
The most ancient methods are still retained for treating
grain, the ears of which being merely collected, it is
then trodden out by mares, and winnowed by hand.
The system of irrigation is wastefill and laborious, no
wooden sluices or floodgates being constructed in the
waterways. When the water requires turning, a
cumbersome process of digging a dam on the spot
has to be resorted to; yet, notwithstanding all these
drawbacks, Don R. assured me that, after deducting
all expenses connected with the farm and house, it
returned hir  ten per cent. clear money.   The cattlebreeding farm was a day's ride from Limari, the
beasts being generally brought in when required for
sale, so as to undergo a fattening process on the
vast fields of long stubble and  lucern, prior  to
appearing for sale. Lucern thrives in a remarkable manner, as many as five crops being frequently
taken from the same ground in the course of a
twelvemonth.
The Chilians are very expert in the use of the
lasso, which forms part of the equipment of every
mounted man.   Don R. showed me what  is considered their neatest feat, namely taking the two*
fore-legs of a horse at the gallop. In doing this the
lasso is not swung in the usual manner above the
head, but trailed, and cast underhand. We went
into the " corral," where some hundred horses were
running about, and, making me select an animal out
120 
A BEGGAR ON HORSEBACK.
of the crowd, we drove all past where he was
standing as hard as they could gallop. In a
moment the lasso flew, and sure enough there was
the victim I had pointed out, with the rope round
each fore-leg.  The swinging cast is comparatively
easy, and I soon managed after a few lessons to get
it out pretty straight, but the peons can place it
unfailingly on the horns of the wildest bull going at
the top of his speed across the country.
The natives may almost be said to live on horseback, and their costume is exceedingly picturesque;
high-peaked wooden saddle padded with skins, bootshaped stirrups of solid wood, elaborately carved,
and weighing about ten pounds the pair, knee-boots,
with solid silver spurs weighing frequently over
three pounds, the rowels being sometimes  much
larger than a Mexican dollar; and a gaily-coloured
poncho and straw hat complete the attire.  The bits
are terribly severe, the very slightest touch being
sufficient to bring a horse on his haunches. Ladies
dress much the same as everywhere else; but the
black manto, covering the upper part of head and
body, is common to all classes, though generally
worn during Divine service.
No one could have been kinder or more hospitable
than our friend, Don R., and though we were
disappointed about the shooting, we had a very
pleasant time and enjoyed our visit immensely.  On
our way back we met a veritable beggar on horseback. HIe was old and dilapidated, but his mount
was by no means a "screw," and looked in very
good condition.  I thought of the old saying, "Put
121 
THE TWO  A]MERICAS.
a beggar on horseback," etc., which I certainly
never expected to have seen so literally realised;
and thought that if our old ancient undertook the
journey mentioned in the proverb, his gallop would
be a very quiet one, as he certainly looked, poor old
man, quite unable to travel fast.
Going through the town poor stupid old Major,
getting bewildered by some carts that were passing,
ran under the wheels of our carriage, and got one of
the small bones of his fore-paw broken. It did not
appear to pain him very much, and it might have
been worse.
The only pretty place near Coquimbo is Compania,
a property belonging to Mr. L., a namie well-known
on the Pacific station from his excessive kindness and
hospitality. Plentifully supplied with water, he is
enabled to keep the land in the immediate vicinity of
his house well irrigated; and large green fields of
lucern, and quantities of flowers and trees, make the
place a veritable oasis in the desert. His copper
works, though not so extensive as those of Guayacon,
were very interesting; and we saw there the process
of moulding bars or ingots firom the molten meta],
which we had missed at the other establishment.
I-Ie has gone in largely for planting the Australian
.Eucalyptus, which appears suited to tile cliniate'and
grows well. It is to be hoped lie may succeed,
and that, prompted by his example, it may soon
be extensively cultivated, and banish in time the
hideous  poplars which  at present  disfigure  the
country.
Since going on shore at Sombrero Island the ship's
122 
CONDITION OF CHILL
bottom had not been looked at.  A  diving-dress
being available in the Nereus (the store-ship for the
station), her gunner went down (old D., our own
diver, was too big and fat to get into it), and aftar
examination reported a small portion of the false
keel knocked off some eight feet from the stern-post,
and two or three sheets of copper-not very serious
damages, and easily repaired when occasion offered.
On the 20th of March we left Coquimbo, which was
the last port in Chili we touched at.
From Lat. 24~ S. to Punta Arenas, the coast-line on
the Pacific belongs to this Republic. Every kind of
climate can be had in their country, from burning
heat On the northern deserts to the icy cold of their
southern glaciers. Almost everything that grows can
be produced. Though still in its infancy, property
is respected and life cared for in a manner very
unusual among South American Republics. Her
leading men have expanded ideas, encourage emigration, and protect the foreigner who casts his lot
among them, offering in many parts of the country
considerable inducements to settle. Notwithstanding
the diplomacy of England (who treated her exactly
as she did Denmark at her moment of trial), the
individual Englishman is rather liked, and his good
opinion courted.   Bigoted and intolerant as is the
opposition of the Romnan Catholic priest, freedom of
religious worship and general education of all classes
is becoming common. Railways are being pushed
into the interior, and the vast mineral and agricultural wealth of the country is being rapidly developed.
The people are proud of their country, which is
123 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
always a good sign in these new lands; and they
have reason to be so, which is perhaps better.
Her  statesmen are  patriotic and  incorruptibleanother novelty in Southern and Central American
Republics; and on the whole, Chili is a rapidly
progressing country, and may, with every prospect
of its hopes being realised, look forward to a
brilliant future.
124 
CALLAO.                125
CHAPTER VII.
Callao-Lima-Totels-Ladies-The  manto - Cathedral - Pizarro's
bones-Midnight funeral -Priestcraft in Peru-Frequencyof murders
-Fate  of the brothers Gutierrez-Earthquakes —A  bull-fight Bull-baiting-The Oroya railway-Highest point on the line 15,645
feet above the sea-Aztec cultivation-Distances from Callao and
height above the sea of the various stations on the Oroya railway Chorrillos-Corruption of all classes of government officials in Peru
-Death of Major-Payta —Cross the equator-The Cocos Islands Sharks-Turtle-turning a, naturel.
ON tlhe 30th of March we anchored in Callao Bay,
formed.by Callao Point and a long spit that stretches
off from it towards San Lorenzo Island. A part of
this spit, termed the "Whale's Backl," just shows at
the water's edge, the sea breaking violently along
its ridge. Callao Point is low, and consists of a
bank of small round stones. The roadstead, assisted
by the climate and prevalent southerly winds,
becomes a fine harbour; the island of San Lorenzo
protecting it from the long swell from the ocean.
Before sighting the harbour we passed through a
large herd of sea-lions, who did not appear in the
least alarmed at our presence.   They reared  their
huge bodies half out of the water to gaze on us, and
then continued their gambols with the most perfect
unconcern.
Passing HIorladada, a curious rocky islet with a
125
CALLAO. 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
hole quite through it, we saw clouds of birds.
Pelicans, wide-awakes, and sea-gulls of every descrip tion were in myriads. The rocks were white with
their droppings, and without seeing the "Chinchas"
one was able to form a tolerable idea of what a guano
island would be like.
The town of Callao extends about a mile along
the beach that fronts the bay.   Some of the houses
are fairly built, and it has an excellent mole with a
well protected inner harbour for boats.  The railway
station connecting it with Lima is close to the
landing-place, but on the whole the town is dirtylooking and dilapidated, its streets ill-paved, and
a general neglected and seedy appearance prevails
everywhere.    Such   should   not  be  the  case.
-Hundreds of large vessels engaged in the guano
trade  are  constantly  here.  The  Pacific  Steam
Navigation Company make it the head-quarters for
their magnificent fleet of vessels.   A large export
trade in nitre and metals necessitates much shipping,
so that the harbour dues must be enormous, and the
money spent in the town by merchant seamen alone
very considerable.
Nothing  about  Callao  rendered  a stay  there
desirable; and as Lima, the capital of Peru, was
only six miles off by rail, we soon took our departure.
Any person having read Prescott's charming book
of the history of the conquest of Peru, and the fate
of the unfortunate Incas  who  governed  it, will
naturally take an interest in the town of Lima,
which was founded by Pizarro in 1535. It stands
on a plain at the foot of a lofty range of mountains,
126 
LISA.                  127
and through it runs the river Rimac, a turbulent,
rapid stream, subject at seasons to considerable floods.
The houses are mostly one-storied, flat-roofed, and,
in fact, of precisely the same style of architecture
as at Santiago or Valparaiso.  The Plaza Mayor,
Cathedral of San Francisco, and the Alameda del Acho,
on the banks of the Rimac, are among the sights;
but the streets are ill-paved and dirty, and in no way
can Lima be compared to either of the Chilian cities.
We put up at the Gran Hotel, in the Plaza, first
of all; but shifted afterwards to H6tel Maury,
where Mr. R. B. N., one of the lieutenants of the
Tenedos, was  also  staying.   He had been there
some time waiting for his ship (to which he had
recently been appointed) to come into harbour.   He
knew most of the Lima people worth knowing, and
was very good-natured to H. and myself, introducing
us to his friends and rendering our stay up there
an exceeding,ly pleasant one.   With regard to the
hotels, there is little to choose between any of them;
all alike being dirty, exceedingly expensive, and
cooking execrable.
The  quantity of solid meat got through  by a
Peruvian in one sitting is simply marvellous.
No sort of an attempt at delicacy of cooking is
required to tempt his ravenous appetite: solid
after solid disappears with extraordinary celerity,
until one marvels how such a miserable undersized little animal, as nine-tenths of them are,
should possess such Gargantuan appetites and be
able to stow away so much.  The working classes
and lower orders among the Peruvians are  genierally
127
LIMA. 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
a mixed breed called llestizos, and are as ugly a
race as can well be met with.   The pure  bi-ed
Indians are not bad-looking, but the Lima ladies are
exceedingly pretty, and, as a rule, particularly well
dressed also.  All classes of females wear the manto.
The middle and poorer habitually, and the higher
when they go to church or wish to be unrecognized.
No feminine costume is more charming than the
black dress and manto. It is becoming to all classes,
whether rich or poor. A Peruvian servant is as
gracefully dressed as her mistress, and looks some
hundreds of degrees better than any of our own
female domestics, got up in their mistresses' cast-off
finery or in the cheap tawdry imitation they delight
to stick on themselves.'
This wearing of the manto gives the women a
certain amount of licence not accorded in any other
country, and as all classes usually dress in black
devoid of ornament, when wearinig it to recognize
onle's most intimate acquaintance bccomnes almost an
impossibility.   Sometimes half the face is exposed,
at others but one eye.   One eye is often quite sufficient to do much execution, for I douibt if anywhere
are they softer or more expressive than in Limna.
Byron, in one of his poems, makes a very pertinent
allusion to the peculiar effects of a sultry climate.
Lima is only 12~ from the equator; and absolution,
where almost every other man  you meet in the
streets is a priest, is neither difficult to obtain nor
costly to purchase.
I was disappointed on visiting the cathedral to
find the interior so tawdry  and filthy.   A  few
128 
-~~~~~DA              12
paintings, concealed under a coating of dirt, adorned
its principal altars; some revolting images of our
Saviour, covered in blood, were scattered about the
building; and even poor Pizarro's bones, which are
exhibited to the curious for a trifling douceur, seemed
to have caught the general infection and looked
more dirty than bones have any right to do.   The
stalls were handsome carvings in walnut wood, the
subjects-saints, prophets, and patriarchs;  but so
covered with dirt, that all the delicate arabesque
traceries by which  they  were  surrounded  were
completely  hidden.    Considering  the  enormous
wealth the Spaniards got out of Peru, they certainly
might have left some more  lasting monument of
their occupation than the miserable  cathedral at
Lima. The other churches, if not absolutely so
dirty as. the cathedral, were far from being clean.
Funerals  constantly  take  place  after  dark.   I
followed one I met in the streets at about eleven
o'clock at night, into a neighbouring church, and
watched the ceremony.  The effect was theatrical,
still impressive. The coffin lay on a raised marble
slab; the lofty arched roof, the dim light, the solemn
music, and the long rows of white-clothed priests,
each holding a lighted taper, made me feel quite
creepy, so that I was glad to get out of the holy
precincts.
The priesthood in Peru are omnipotent: for which
reason it is probably the worst governed and most
miserable  country  in  America;  except  perhaps
Mexico, where the priests having been allowed their
own way until quite recently, things are much in
K
il-) 9
LIIIIA. 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
the same state. In exchange for this power, they
amuse the populace with religious spectacles. On
Good Friday, an image of our Saviour is placed on
an ass, and lead about the streets, accompanied by a
begging-box of course. The Last- Supper is acted in
the cathedral, a table being spread with all the
luxuries in season.   Images to represent Christ and
the twelve Apostles are seated round it, each figure
having a cigarette placed in its mouth, except our
Saviour's, who gets a capital cigar. Judas is dressed
as a soldier.   The populace gaze with holy fervour
on the pious scene, after which they are turned out
and the priests devour the banquet.
Life and property are equally unsafe, and no one
dreams of going out after dark unarmed, or riding
in the country alone. Shortly before our arrival, an
Englishman's house was attacked while the family
were at dinner; several were wounded, but in the
end they managed to beat off their assailants, one of
whom was badly hit. His comrades carried him
some  distance; but  finding  themselves  pursued,
stabbed the miserable wretch, cut his head off, and
took it away with them. One murder a day is
about the regular allowance for the town, and it is
very rare indeed to hear of the assassin being dis,covered( and brought to justice.   One man, Jose'
Chacamago, or some such name, whose photograph
was exposed for sale among other notorieties and
celebrities of Peru, was known to have committed
fourteen murders; and how many more the miscreant polished off without detection, it would be
,hard to guess  Affairs being in such a condition, the
130 
THE BROTHERS GUTIERREZ.
country lives in a state of chronic insurrection.
The mob, as a rule (cowardly, and brutal as mobs
always are), generally allow the parties most
interested to fight it out among themselves, after
which they join in and finish off the vanquished.
In July 1872, three brothers Gutierrez were implicated in a rebellion which they appear to have
made a complete hash of. The mob waited very
quietly until there was no doubt that the Gutierrez
had lost the day, and then murdered them with
every description of barbarity.
One brother was shot at Callao while walking on
the platform of the railway station. The other two
brothers were seized while endeavouring to escape
from Lima, dragged to the cathedral, and hung upon
one of the turrets over a hundred feet from the
ground. They were then cut down, their bodies
being dashed on the pavement, after which they
were burned in the Plaza, and portions of them I
believe actually eaten by the rabble.  When  the
Lima people heard that a Gutierrez had been shot at
Callao and was buried there, they went down, dug
him out of his grave, and with every species of
indignity dragged him along the road to the capital,
just in time to join his brothers for their auto
da fe.
The Zoological Gardens are worth a visit, being
exceedingly well kept and very ornamental.  The
collection of beasts is poor, but the grounds being
more botanical than  zoological, the deficiency of
animal life is made up for by a profusion of everything beautiful in the veg,etable.  A magnificent hall
'K 2
131 
]32- TH  TW   MliA
for dancing-it would make a grand skating-rink —is
at the entrance, opening on the gardens, and a handsome building, sometimes used as an hotel, contains a
fine picture of the death of the last of the Incas; a
scene which, with most questionable taste, is occasionally engraved-on some of their bank-notes.
Perpetual revolutions, corruption among all classes
of governument officials from the President downwards,
and an uncertainty of life quite bewildering, are the
chief characteristics of the people. An absence of
thunder and lightning, and a prevalence of earthquakes are the most striking features of the country.
A slight earthquake took place early one morning
while I was at Lima; but thlloughl it awoke most of
the people, I did not feel it. I got so accustomed to
shaking in the Rocket, that it would require a very
rude.shock to awake me now. Of course the shocks
vary considerably in severity; but one curious fact
about them is, that instead of people getting accustomed to these unpleasant visitations, the more they
feel the less they like them, and the oldest inhabitants
are invariably the greatest cowards.
In October 1746, Lima was visited with a most
destructive earthquake, on whichl occasion Callao
was suddenly submerged by a huge wave and completely destroyed. Out of 4000 people only 200 are
said to have escaped.
The bull-ring at Lima is a very large one, and
during thie season a fight talkes place nearly every
Sunday. The operations are conducted in a manner
very similar to those I have witnessed in Spain, but
are not quite so brutal, their horses being very rarely
132
THE TWO AMERICAS. 
-~~      BULFGT                 13
killed; whereas, in Spain, the chief delight of the
audience consists in seeing the wretched blindfolded
screws they send to the arena gored to death. I
remember seeing one bull at Algesiras kill six horses
in less than five minutes, amid the frantic plaudits of
a crowded house, among  whom were many ladies,
whose shrill voices screamed "bravo toro" with the
loudest of them.  The bull-fight we went to at Lima
was given in honour of General Prado, a candidate
for the presidency; and shortly after the time
announced for the sports to commence, the judges
having taken their seats, a flourish of trumpets
announced that operations were about to begin.
The performers first promenaded the arena and
made their bow to the judges; the parts of Picador,
Banderille'ro, Toread6r, and Matad6r, being similar
to those in the mother country. They were equally
beautifully dressed, their jackets being one mass of
gold embroidery.  The gaily decked team of mul]es
for carrying out the defunct bulls was similar, but
there were only t4vo Toreadors, instead of a dozen.
Instead of being on wretched screws, blindfolded for
the attack, they were beautifully mounted, arid their
horses permitted to see; and instead of being armed
with lances, they only carried a bright-coloured cloak
over their arm.  Another feature in the procession
not met with in Spain, were twelve bull-dogs, fantastically clothed, and led by niggers in rear of tihe
procession.
The cavalcade having retired, the doors were once
more opened, and the two Toread6rs again making
their appearance, waited calmly in the centre of the
133
A B ULL-FIGHT. 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
ring for the rush of the bull, who, mid a flourish of
trumpets, shortly afterwards dashed towards them.
The mastery these men had over their horses was
simply wonderful. Wheeling round, as the animal
was in the act of charging, the man attacked dropped
his cloak over his horse's quarter, holding it about
six inches from him; and then just keeping it, not
certainly more than two inches in front of the bull's
horns, galloped round the ring, the bull all the time
tossing at the flag, and almost touching the horse;
who, though snorting with alarm, was kept at this
exact distance, until in disgust master Toro ceased
the pursuit.  These men were not padded like the
Spanish Toreadors, whose legs are cased in steel
and leather (something like a cricketer's pads), and
bandaged up to- the waist, and every instant the
bu]l'~ horns appeared on the point of striking them;
but during the entire day, though several bulls were
brought forward, not once did any of the horses
receive the slightest scratch.  This much of their
bull-fighting is without any cruelty; the bull up to
this period had not been tormented or received a
tingle dart; and tbe man's sole defence lay in his
matchless horsemanship and three yards of coloured
cloth.
The rest of the performance was similar to those
of Spain, and it is needless to recapitulate so wellknown and oft-repeated a story.   The most brutal
pait of the exhibition was reser'ved for the last.  A
bull having undergone sufficient tormenting to
make him wielked, was left in possession of the
ring.  His human assailants having withdrawn, from
134 
THE OROYA RAILWAY.
all sides of the arena came racing up to the wretched
animal the dogs we had seen in the procession, who
stuck literally all over him.   The bull appeared
perfectly paralyzed, and after the first dog had seized
him did not offer the slightest resistance. The bulldogs held on with their usual tenacity to every part
of his body) amid the frantic plaudits of the crowd),
till at length, overcome with pain and exhaustion, the
wretched beast fell to the ground, where for some
minutes he lay, being eaten alive, until at last lie
was happily "pithed " by some of the attendants and
put out of his misery.
A more cruel and brutal sight I never witnessed.
There was nothing in it but sheer wanton barbarity,
as the wretched bull never nmade the slightest resistance, or even attempted to shake the dogs off, who
for sorme minutes after he had fallen were simply
eating him alive.  Before the dogs had succeeded in
pulling the bull down, one of the brutes in the ring
passed a sword twice through the wretched animal's
body, avoiding a vital spot, but causing sufficient
hemorrhage to render the dogs' task of pulling him
down the more easy.
I am happy to say that no ladies were present,
and but a small sprinkling of women belonging to
the lower classes.
During our visit to Lima, I got an opportunity of
seeing the celebrated Oroya Railway, which, running
over a pass in the Cordillera, 15,645 feet above the
sea, connects the rich and fertile valley of thile river
Amazon with the seaboard of Peru. It was c(onstructed by a Mr. M., sometime  a banker at San
135 
TTHE TWO AMERICAS.
Francisco, where he failed for a very lalge sum of
money.  He is now a kind of"'HllIdson, or "Pailway
King," of Peru, and I believe made several million of
dollars through the Oroya contract.  As lick would
have it, N. heard that he was taking a party up the
line, and succeeded through one of his friends in
getting us askled to join them.
A regiment of red-breecl-hed warriors were washing
their clothes by the river-b.nk as we left at eight
o'clockl in the morning by a special train, and passing
up the valley of the Rimae, cultivated on each bank
with fields of maize and sugar,r-cane, soon got to the
foot of the Cordillera. All along this valley lay the
deserted towns and villages of the Aztecs, the extraordinary dry clima(te still preserving their walls
intact. We halted for about an hour at one c)f the
stations, where we found provided for us an excellent
breakfast; and after leaving this, the zig,zag ascent
up the mountains commenced.
The difficu]tv of laying down a line of rails across
the Cordillera can hardly be over-estimated, and as a
great feat of engineering skill it is undoubtedly one
of the most wonderfifl in the world. As a commercial
speculation it is as absurd as it well can be, the traffic
being utterly insufficient even to keep the line in repair. Landslips constantly carry away great portions
of the track; people, owing to the extreme rareficetion
of the air at the summit, are unable to remain there
beyond a very limited time; and a few years will
probably see the entire line deserted  it being an
exceedingly expensive one to keep in repair.  Its
construction was a government job, started for the
136 
AZTEC CULTIVATION.
purpose of robbery, and by all accounts it has answered the purpose to perfection, enabling the various
ministries to plunder their wretched country to the
tune of millions.
As we travelled up the mountains, traces of the
ancient Aztec cultivation became more apparent. To
the highest brow of many of the hills, and for miles
along the mountain, lay the distinctly marked terraces
which Prescott alludes to in his interesting account
of the Conquest. In layer above layer, like huge
steps, they covered entire mountains; and the labour
necessary for such gigantic farming must have been
fabulous.
In parts of southern China, where the population
is greater to the square acre than in any other country in the world, and where every inch of ground is
brought under cultivation, I had seen similar means
adopted for planting and irrigating the sides of steep
hills; and from the knowledge I possessed of the
amount of labour requisite for such an undertaking
out there, could form an approximate idea of what
the population must have been here, to have produced the stupendous works I saw in all directions
around me.
As the ancient Aztec cultivation of these mountains by means of terraces, greatly exceeded in extent,
owing to their altitude, the similar method in use
among the Chinese who are the most thickly populated people in the world, so is it only reasonable to
suppose that, in the same proportion, the Aztek population must have exceeded that of the Chinese; in
which case, the enormous number of two hundred
137 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
millions, supposed by some authors to be about the
population of Peru at the time of Cortez, would not
be greatly out of reason.   The' Indian population
Low is under two millions.  When one remembers
that Peru was only discovered in 1524, and conquered in 1536, it is simply fearful to think of the
cruelty and oppression the Spaniards must necessarily
have been guilty of, to have reduced so populous a
country to its present state.
These terraces are the chief, I may almost say the
only, traces left of the original possessors of the soil,
and they had for me a sad and mournful interest, as
looking on them I thought of the many millions of
happy, peaceful, and industrious Indians they helped
to support under the mild rule of their Incas princes,
before Pizarro and his successors, aided by the Jesuits,
caused their extermination.  With all its benefits,
Christianity has much to answer for; and as foul
crimes have been perpetrated in its name, and by its
ministers, as ever disgraced Mahometanism or idolatry; but in all its history, never was our Saviour's
name more prostituted than it was among these unfortunate Aztecs, who, under the plea of conversion,
their Christian conquerors barbarously annihilated.
Shortly after starting, Mr. M. presented us with a
railway ticket, to keep as a souvenir of our trip,
having on it the names of the different stations, their
distances from Callao, and the height of each above
the level of the sea. The carriage we travelled in
was quite gorgeous, but exceedingly comfortable, and
as we pursued our tortuous course, it was strange to
see the line we had to travel on just over our heads,
138 
-~~~CORILS                   3
while that we had just left lay equally plain below
us. The entrance to two tunnels, one exactly over
the other, looked very curious; but it was undoubtedly the most extraordinary line I ever travelled on,
or am ever likely to see again.  The Americans talk
a great deal of theirs over the Rocky Mountains,
which at Sherman, their highest point, is eight thousand two hundred and forty-two feet above the sea;
a very considerable altitude certainly, but one which
sinks into insignificance when compared with the
highest point on the Oroya, namely the Tu'nel en la
Cima, fifteen thousand six hundred and forty-five feet
above the ocean, and only a distance of one hundred
and four miles and a half from Callao, which is at
its edge.
From time to time, as we approached particularly
interesting portions of the line, the train would stop,
and the passengers get out and examine them. VWe
walked over a high and spider-like bridge, spanning
a ravine about two hundred feet below us, which was
of a construction far more delicate in appearance
than ailythinrg    had ever seen in Europe.  During
our journey, servants were constantly handing round
ices and cunning drinks, and a pleasaniter railway
trip, or a more interesting one, I have never taken.
Chorrillos, a small town on the coast, and the
Brighton of Peru, was well worth a visit.  During
the summer months nearly all the better classes from
Lima go there for sea-bathing and promenade each
night, most wonderfully attired, until past twelve
o'clock. I wentwith N. one evening after dinner.
The band was playing, and hundreds of well-dressed
139
CHOBBILLOS. 
THE TWO AMERPICAS.
ladies were strolling up and down listening to its
strains.   In the verandahs, ladies might be seen
swinging in grass hammnocks, occasionally smoking
cigarettes. The rooms were brilliantly lighted, and
their occupants appeared to court observation, everything evidently being done for effect.  The effect
was however very pretty, and as the Peruvian ladies
are really good-looking, one can only feel grateful to
them for being so fond of showing themselves.
With the exception of Havannah, Lirna is the
most expensive town I was ever in.  Everything is
extravag,ant, and generally bad.  Tile commonest
necessaries of life are terribly exorbitant; and as
everyone knows that the country is on the verge of
bankruptcy, where all the money comes from to support this wilful waste it is hard to say.
The Government, and every official connected
with it, are corrupt to a degree almost inconceivable. Always hard up for money, they resort to any
means to obtain it, and it is not unusual for merchants to get from Government as much as thirty
per cent. on money advanced by them, through
taking advantage of the customs, and passing
goods to the amount of their high rate of interest.
If anything could thorotughlly disenchant some of
our Radicals in England with their ultra-republican
proclivities, it would be a visit to Peru; and I
doubt if even Mr. Odger, or Sir Charles Dillke, would
stand the ordeal. Our visit was drawing to a close,
and after a couple of days' dawdling about Callao, a
wretched place to stay in, on the 8th of April we
started for Payta.
140 
ENSANG UIANED SEA.
The day after leaving, we passed through many
patches of discoloured water of various sizes, at times
only a few hundred yards in diameter, and at others
extending for several miles, but invariably markedl
by the deep blue which immediately surrounded
them. There was no toning down or blending of
these blood-like-coloured patches round their edges,
though occasionally a bright blue streak of clear water
would be seen distinctly  passing  through them.
We brought some on board, and on examining it in
a tumbler saw particles of apparently red dust
floating through it.  We had no microscope, but I
believe they were animalculm. A merchant skipper
told me afterwards that whales were supposed to
feed on them. The effect of sailing through this
ensanguined sea was very peculiar, and I should
fancy that it must have astonished the early and
somewhat superstitious mariners considerably, as it
really seemed as though we were steaming through
blood.
We passed close to Ferrol Bay, celebrated as being
a haunt and breeding-place for sea-lions.  We  saw
two or three outside the harbour, but it was getting
dusk, and IH. would not go in.
N. visited it once, and told me they lay in
thousands along the beach, and were perfectly indifferent to his party, who walked about among
them without causing the slightest alarm.
Several were eighteen feet long, and had great
manes like a lion; from his description the sight
must have been one of extreme interest, and I was
sorry we missed going into the Fay.
141 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
Poor old Major, who had quite recovered from
his accident at Ovalle, about; this time began to
show symptoms of strange excitability.
From being the greatest possible friends with the
other dog on board, he became cross and snappish,
and thrashed him whenever they met.  At first we
thought it was merely jealously, owing to Joe having
gone on shore by himself while Major's foot was in
bandages; but the poor fellow got from bad to worse,
and the morning after we reached Payta died raving
mad, and was buried in the harbour.
Poor dog! he was a general favourite on board
and had served us well in the Straits.
Without him we should not have picked up a
quarter of the birds we shot, the other animal being
utterly useless, and he deserved a better fate than to
perish thus miserably at the most wretched hole of a
place in Peru.
Payta is situated on the slope at the foot of a hill
on the south-east side of the bay.   At a distance it
is scarcely visible, the houses built of mud and
bamboo being the same colour as the surrounding
cliffs. It is the sea-port for the province of Puira,
and does a considerable export trade in salt.  Petroleum has recently been found there.  The necessaries
of life, such as meat, poultry, fruit, vegetables, and
eggs, are reasonable in price and fairly good.   The
mangoes rival the celebrated kind at Bombay, and
the alligator pears were excellent, both coming from
a well-watered valley sixteen miles from the port.
Even on the east coast of Africa, or in Madagascar,
I have never seen a more miserable or more dirty
142 
PAYTA.                 143
town than Payta. Not. a vestige of grass is to be
seen, and not a single tree, or even bush, is to be
met within miles. Many people living in the town
have positively never seen a tree, if we except some
wretched daubs that are painted on the walls of the
cemetery. Tradition says they were once painted
green, but the colour being so attractive to the
donkeys, they soon eat it all off the walls; so they
are now exhibited with bright blue foliage, and red
trunks, in hopes that the more unnatural colour may
preserve them. Over the door is a picture of our
Saviour lying on a bench after the Crucifixion; and
at each side are figures of Adam and Eve, the former
with a battle-axe over his shoulder, and the latter
carrying a sickle and bundle of corn.
The population is chiefly Indian, and on going to
market. early one morning, I was surprised at the
number of pretty girls I saw, several of whom had
ridden in on mules from the country. Their complexionl was light bronze, features regil lar, with nose
slightly inclined to be aquiline; eyes large and soft;
and figure, slight, well formed, and graceful.
Considering Payta is only five degrees south of
the equator, the climate is wonderfully  cool.  A
light blanket is requisite in the early morning, and
the temperature of the sea is delicious.   Sharks
seldom visit the harbour, and the bathing is the
nearest approach to perfection I have ever had;
indeed there was nothing else to do but swim about.
We had a tremendous haul of the seine one night,
catching several thousands of fish about the size of
herring.   The Indians who assisted in pulling the
143
PAYTA. 
THE  TWO  AliEPRICAS.
net on shore were given as many as they could
carry; we supplied every vessel in the harbour; fed
the ship's company until they were tired, and afterwards had to throw overboard a couple of cartloads
which we could not use. Their flavour was not bad,
but they were too full of bones for any person to
eat them with comfort.  On the 20th of April we
crossed the Line, Long. 84~ 15', and I felt a certain
species of satisfaction at once more being in my own
hemisphere.
Going through the "doldrums" we saw quantities
of turtle, and lowered a boat to try and pick some
up.   They allowed the boat to come right on them;
but the clever individual who took on himself their
capture, merely poked the slumnibering reptile about
with his boat-hook, and Master Turtle went away.
Orn the 24th we anchored in Chattham Bay, Cocos
Islands, an uninhabited but beautifully wooded and
picturesque little spot, Lat. 5~ 32' 57" N., and Long.
86~ 58' 22" W.  Tihe shores appear to be composed
of broken perpendicular rocky precipices, beyond
which the surface rises unevenly to the summit of
the island.  Near the shore the jungle is composed
of small trees, thick undergrowth, and a profusion
of vine or supple-jack; but in the interior, large
spreading trees and cocoa-nuts are numerous.
Bright sparkling streams of deliciously cool water
dash down the mountain sides, and a profusion of
feins and exotic leaves line its banks. Wild goats
and pigs are on the island, but the cover is too thick
to get at them, the only apparent way  into the
interior lying in the bed of a watercourse. Off the
144 
COCOS ISLANDS.
coast are several pretty little detached rocks a,rid
islets, particularly on the south-west side of the
island, where they run off fully two miles.   Colnett,
who visited it in 1794, compares it in beauty of scenery
to Tahiti, but without the advantages of its climate
or hospitality of its inhabitants.   Quantities of sea birds were flying about, many of tlhemn pitching on
the rigging as we came in. Pretty little birds the
size of pigeons and perfectly white were flying in
pairs through the woods; and far above all, floated
stately frigate birds, sailing in majestic circles, many
of them so high up as to resemble mere specks in the
firmament.
With the exception of parts of the Mozambique
Channel and Port Royal, Jamaica,, I never saw a
harbour so full of sharks as Chatham Bay.   We
caught two very large ones with hooks, and shot
several others, but still the brutes kept swimming
round the ship, constantly cuotting the lI'nes which
the men were trying to catch smnall fish with.
Every variety seemed to have a representative: the
dreaded ground-shark were the most numerous; but
several of their hammer-headed brethren (Squalus
zygcena) honoured us with a visit also.
We left Cocos Island the same afternoon, passing
through quantities of floating and sleeping turtle. On
many of their backs were perched birds, and almnost
invariably, when a boat approached them, the bird
would give three or four sharp pecks on the turtle's
back, to apprise him of his danger, before flying off
themselves.   The  temperature, which  up  to the
equator had been quite cool and pleasant, at about
L
145 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
5~ north became disag,reeably warm, the thermomleter constantly showing as much as 90~  in the
shlade.   The sea was smooth as a mlill-pond, and as
considerable quantities of turtle still floated on the
surface, I determinied to try my hand at catching one.
Getting a boat one afternoon, and arming the
crew with boarding-pikes to keep off sharks, a large
one having been seen swimming round the ship in
tbhe morning, I toolk a log-line with a running noose,
and set off; my intention being to swim up gently to
the sleeping turtle, fasten the line round one of his
back fins, and allow the boat's crew to haul him in.
A turtle was soon sighted from the ship, and pulling
in the direction pointed out to us, we saw his shell
shining above the water as the long gentle ocean
swell caused him  slowly to rise and fall.  When
witlhn fifty yards of where he lay, the boat stopped
rowing, and  taking the end  of the line between
my teeth I swam silently towards him, one of the
boat's crew paying out rope to me as I wanted it.
When, however, within a few strokes of my still
sleeping fi'iend, lie put his head out of water, looked
at me, and was off before I could reach him. It was
rather discouraging; however, I determined to try
again, and another and larger one being soon discovered, we pulled very quietly up, and I resirmed
the same tactics.   This time I slipped extra noiselessly into the water and swam  with the utmost
caution, but just as I was getting tlie noose ready, up
ame the head and down went the turtle. This time,
however, I was not to be done.  Turtle, though they
swim at a fair pace when they once get "way on,"
146 
TURTLE TURNING "AU NATUREL."
are slow starters; and never under any circumstances, no matter how greatly alarmed, do they dive
perpendicularly.   Knowing this, the instant I saw
his head rise I threw away the log-line, and gave
way all I knew after the alarmed and fast disappearing chase.   It was pretty hard swimming to
collar him, but knowing that unless I got level in
less than thirty strokes I might shut up, I did all
I knew, and coming up before he got steam on, I
seized him by a hind-flipper and held on like grim
death.  It was a regular case of "pull devil, pull
baker," the turtle doing his best to get down, and
I trying equally hard to prevent him. He was uncommonly lively and kicked like mad, cutting my
hands a good deal with the sharp nails on his fins.
Once he got my head under water; however, when
he did.so I managed to get hold of his other flipper
with my left hand, and succeeded in getting him
over on his back, where I held him, until the boat
coming up, hauled us both in together.  I caught a
smaller one by fair swimming, as from some reason
best known to himself he did not dive more than
three feet below the surface. Starting at about
ten yards behind him, I got level and had his fin
in about a minute's spin, judging from the time he
detected the presence of an enemy, and succeeded in
taking him to the boat. It was capital fin, and had
it not been for the dread of sharks I might have got
any number of them. Nothing can be simpler or
more easy, and any moderate swimmer, when he
once learns the way, will have no difficulty in
catching them.   The great object is to get them on
L2
147 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
their backs, and this once accomplished, holding
them until the boat's crew come to the rescue is-easy
enough.   Occasionally these turtle (Testudo caretta)
are very heavy, weighing sometimes  as much  as
nine  hundred  pounds.   These  were  very  much
smaller; but the buoyancy of the animal causes it to
float, and the slightest exertion prevents it sinking
when once turned over.   Until this is done  the
fight is'pretty equal, and the sole art lies in quickly
doing the trick.
148 
-~~~ACPLO                  14
CHAPTER VIII.
Acupulco - Massacre of the Protestant inhabitants by the fanatic
Roman Catholics-Intolerance of the priests-Pira de la Questa Tickle an alligator with small shot-Mexican cusine -Wild-fowl
shooting on the lagoon-A ride in the dark-Manzanilla-A wild goose chase —Kill an alligator-Fight between sharks and alligators St. Blas-Cigars-Magnificent duck-shooting on the river Santiago Alligators and dogs-Disagreeable encounter-Mazatlan-Freighlt
for H.M. ships.
ON the 6th of May, we anchored in the much-abused
harbour of Acupulco, in Mexico. Fromrn the different accounts I had read, as well as from what
had been told me, I expected to find a perfect oven,
and was most agreeably surprised at discovering by
experience that it was far cooler than it had been
anywhere since leaving the equator: the thermometer one morning before sun-rise being as low as
75~, while outside, it had run as high as 94.
For safe anchorage, the harbour is unsurpassed in
the world, and the lofty ranges of densely wooded
high volcanic mountains render it as beautiful as it
is secure.  The bay is a mile and a half deep, having
an extent from east to west of about three mriles, and
is perfectly land-lockled, the town lying on the west
side of the port.
Acupulco, though once of some importance, has
149
ACUPULCO. 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
gradually been  going  down  hill.   Prior  to its
occupation by  the French, during their late war
with Mexico, it almost enjoyed the privilege of
a free port, paying a reduction so considerable on
the imports, that the resident merchants were
enabled to do a brisk trade with the interior, as
well as with the capital. After the French left, the
custom-house duties were again enforced, and shortly
afterwards, the railway being completed between
Vera Cruz and Mexico, all commerce went round to
the other coast, and the final death-blow was given
to Acupulco.  Everything in connection with the
government of this republic is managed by bribery.
The salaries of the officials are small, and  it is
distinctly understood on both sides, that any appointment conferred carries with it the privilege of
extorting as much money from the public as ever
they can possibly screw out of them, and whoever
can bribe the highest gets served the best.  The
Vera Cruz merchants mianage this so well, that they
are able to land their goods, and not only undersell
the towns on the wvest coast up at the city of Mexico,
but can also take away all their trade with the
small villages and towns in their immediate neighbourhood.  The town of Acupulco is clean, and the
country, particularly after the arid hills and sandy
plains of northern Chlili and Peru, appeared a veritable garden of Eden. Once more we saw the graceful feathery palm-trees waving in the breeze; the
verdant manigo laden with its golden fruit, and the
broad-leafed banana glistening in the sun. Alligator
pears, oranges, limes, and pine-apples were abundant
150 
ITASSACRE OF PROTESTANTS.
and inexpensive, and quantities of fish could be had
by hauling the net.
Shortly before our arrival, Acupulco had b(een the
scene of a shocking massacre of Protestants by the
Roman  Catholic  inhabitants of  the place, while
the former were engaged in Divine worship; and
the ruined remains of the little chapel were pointed
out as we passed them on our way to the old fortress
of San Diego castle.
It appears thlat a Protestant mission, being
successful at the capital, had determined on pushing
its way thlroughl the country: and there being some
eighty converts and believers at Acupulco, it was
determined, at their request, to establish among them
a small place of worship.  Unfortunately for the
success of the und(lertaking, the local priest, one Padre
Justo Pastor Nava, a bigoted and most intolerant
papist, had in this particular district his cure of
souls.  His notoriety in this respect, as being a
dangerous fanatic, was so generally known, that in
1859 on being taken prisoner at a battle fought
against the Liberals at Casta Chica, he was tried by
General Alvarez and sentenced to be shot. As illluck would have it, some influential  friends succeeded in getting his sentence of death commuted
into one of banishment: the temporary establishment
of Maximilian's empire broughlt him back to Mexico,
and the ordinary course of events took him here.
On the 26thl of January, while the Protestants
were at church, the building was surrounded by a
mob armed with guns, and their deadly machetes,
the doors were forced, and men and women prc
151 
THE l'WO AMERICAS.
miscuously  butchered.   Fortunately some  of  the
congregation had pistols; and others, rendered
desperate by their terrible emergency, with  arms
wrested from the murderers, and stools, forms, or
anything they could lay their hands on, drove the
assassins through the doors, which they succeeded in
barnicading Until help arrived, but not before seven
men  and  women  killed, and ten others severely
wounded, had fallen victims to religious fanaticism.
The intolerance of what is termed the priest
party in Mexico is beyond belief in these days of
enlilghtenment  and  freedom  of religious opinion.
Yery many, indeed almost the majority, of the better
classes of Mexicans are in favour of liberty of conscience for all persuasions;  but the unscrupulousness and vindictiveness of the plriests and their more
immediate followers, nullify the efforts of the enlighltened few.   Until  these  bigoted  and  fanatic
gentry get thoroiughly well trodden downq no peace,
prosperity, or happiness, will be possible for the
country.
I had a long talk on the subject with a Protestant
Miexican.    le was armed to the teeth, and told me
that he considered it almost certain that some day he
would Le assassinated, and that his chief consolation
lay in a knowledge that with. the weapons he carried
about himn, unless completely surprised, he would at
any rate send some half-dozen of his assailants to
travel the unlknown path before him.  I commended
his truly Christian spirit; advised him to emulate
Joshua, David, Samuel, and the rest of the hardsmiting holy ones given to us for an example,  to
152 
PIRA DE LA Q UESTA.
read his Bible, and burn powder freely whenever he
got the chance.
The day after our arrival, IH. and myself, getting
mules and a guide, started for Pira de la Questa,
a small Indian village about twelve miles from
Acupulco, and situated near the extremity of a large
lagoon, some thirty miles in circumference, which
we were informed was full of wild fowl.
Over many a rough road, and in many lands have
I ridden, but never did I travel a highway like unto
this.  The path ran over the mountains through a
thickl forest, and more resembled the b)ed of a watercourse than an actually connected route. Nothing
but mules, whlose cat-like propensities enable themi
to overcome apparently insurmountable difficulties,
could possibly have done the journey.  In places the
path wqs so narrow that two of these animals were
unable to pass abreast, so that one would be obliged
to back into a convenient corner, or scramble up  a
bank, to permit the other to go by. The forest was
dense, but, as it was just prior to the rains, almost
leafless, everything being burned and parched up
except in the valleys and bottoms of ravines, where
running water rendered the vegetation luxuriant
and flourishing.  This absence of foliage, though
detracting  considerably  fromn  the beauty of  the
forest, permitted  us  to  view  all the  better its
feathered denizens, and in few tropical countries
have I seen such lovely birds, or in such numbers,
as out here.   To  classify or name  them would
require a man to b)e a perambulating encyclopedia
of natural history;  but among  them all, I was
most struck with the number of specimens of the
3.53 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
woodpecker  class,  several  of  which  were  very
beautifull. One in particular with a blood-red topknot, which glittered vividly in the sun, I envied
muclh for my fishing-book, and regretted the guide
had my gun in his possession nearly a mile
behind.
As the sun was setting we entered the village,
which consisted of a few mud huts with sideless
roofs, and, halting before one of them, were informed
by the guide that it was to be our quarters for the
night. It was simply a roof of palm-leaves over a
mud floor, there being no kind of wall or even screen,
and it formed the universal dormitory of men, women,
and children, pigs and poultry, at the principal hotel
-the Claridge's, in fact-of Pira la Questa.  Leaving
the proprietress and her numerous progeny engaged
in huiting down an active-looking fowl for our evening repast, we rode to the lagoon, and giving the
guide our mules to hold, shot a few of the curiouslooking aquatic birds, which he pronounced to be
"bue'no," or good for eating, that were feeding round
the banks.  It was rapidly getting dark, and seeing
at a distance some birds that I took to be duck, I
noiselessly crept down onI them. To do so I had to
pass over a small spot of white sand, concealed, until
I was on  it, by a clump  of bushes.  While still
silently watching the birds I saw something move a
little to my right, and on turning round discovered a
huge alligator, whom I had almost cut off from the
lake. The bushes had hidden us until absolutely
face to face, and he came by me with his teeth grinning, and tail half cocked, in the most unamiable
frame of mind I ever  saw in  one of his tribe.
154 
TICKLE AN ALLIGATOR WITH SMALL SUOT. 155
Without intending it, I had very nearly cut him off
from his native element; and though naturally a
cowardly brute, feeling himself to a certain degree
cornered, he had evidently made up his mind to
fight.  Not being prepared, with only small shot in
my gun, for a duel with the reptile, I stopped short
and gave him riglht of way, and, as he cleared me at
about two yards, let him have both barrels behind
the shoulder to expedite his movements, and had the
satisfaction of seeing him give a jump into the water
that would have done credit to a performer for the
"Grand National." They are cowardly brutes, and,
though I have been frequently in parts of the world
they inhabit, I have never yet heard of an instance of
a man being attacked by one on land. In the water
it is different. A boy had, while bathing, been taken
down some months since close to this very spot, and
from what I saw of tlhe lagoon next morning, I would
not have ventured a swim there for untold gold. HIad
I been a little quicker, and unintentionally barred this
fellow's way to-the lakle, I am quite certain he would
have attacked me, as he must have passed somehow.
These creatures never take to the jungle, and, like
a rat driven into a corner, he would  have been
obliged to fight.
On returning to the village we found our dinner
nearly ready; bread and liquor we had brought with
us; but the hunted fowl, new-laid eggs, and hot tortillas, formed no bad mreal for travellers sharp set by
a mountain ride. After feeding, we visited some of
the principal houses in the village, chaffed some of the
good-humoured and pretty little Indian girls, and 
THE TWO AMERICA,q.
arranged about a canoe for the following morning.
We then slung our grass hammocks among the miscellaneous company, and wooed the drowsy god of
slumber, our guide slinging his hammock up between
us, and sleeping with his machete buckled round him,
ready for attack or defence at a moment's notice.
The machete is the invariable companion of the poorer
and middle classes of Mexicans, and the multiplicity
of uses to which it is dedicated are something wonderful to the uninitiated.   With it lie clears the
tangled paths in the forest; it helps to build his hilt,
to cut his firewood, and eat his dinner; he uses it for
purposes of warfare, and too frequently also for purposes of assassination. The blade is broad, slightly
curved, a little shorter than an infantry officer's regulation sword, and about twice as heavy.  The handle
is generally made of wood, the scabbard leather, and
the edge invariably as klieen as a razor. Occasionally
the blades are ornamented with gold or silver, but the
ordinary machete is perfectly plain.
Next morning we were up before daylight, and
hastened to the banks of the lagoon, where according
to agreement we should have found our canoe; none
was forthcoming, however, and not until the sun
broke fiercely on our heads, and our patience was
completely exhausted, did the guide prevail on the
man who was to have provided it, to go in search of
another. After a still further considerable delay, at
last he arrived, but with a rickety conveyance that
would only hold one gun beside the paddler; and II.
taking the canoe, I walked along the edge, and our
shooting commenced.
156 
WILD-FOWL SHOOTING ON A LAGOON.  157
The place was full of all kinds of odd-looking waterfowl. Geese, duck, teal, pelicans, flamingo, and spoonbills were in hundreds, and many kinds of waders
unknown  to me;  in fact, such an extraordinary
variety of fresh-water birds I had never seen together
before.   The ducks were  particularly handsome,
having bright bronze breasts, which shone like burnished metal in the sun.   Of teal I shot several
varieties, many of them with exceedingly beautiful
and brilliant plumage; but I think among the "queer
ones" I killed, there was none more beautiful in
plumage than the spoon-bill; for though his singular
and uncouth beak did not improve his countenance,
he had the most lovely and delicate tinge of rosecolour through his white feathers it is possible to
conceive. We had him for dinner two days afterwards, and found him excellent. Not knowing a
quarter of the birds that got up, and many of them
being fishy and unfit for food, whenever one rose,
the guide would cry either "bueno," or "no bueno,"
as it happened to be fit or unfit for culinary purposes; and so on for nine miles along the banks,
sometirmes through mud, at others through sand, and
at others through jungle or water, did I plod along,
taking whatever was termed "bueno," and occasionally peppering an obtrusive alligator when he came
anything inside twelve yards.
The heat was intense, and to add to the discomfort
of walking the paths through the jungle and mangrove swamps occasionally bordered the edges of
the lake, and were so thickly crossed by cobwebs, that
they were perpetually knocking off my hat, getting 
T1E TWO ANIERICAS.
in my mouth and eyes, and at times almost impeded
my  progress.   I never saw anything like them.
Occasionally large forest-trees were entirely covered
from top to bottom, and so thickly shrouded, that not
a leaf or twig could be seen through its unnaturallooking winding-sheet. The lagoon seemed full of
fish, who were jumpirng in shoals all over it; but not
once during the entire day did we see a single bird
settle on its surface, and from the number of alligators
swimmning about, I think they showed their wisdom.
It was capital sport, but precious hard work also,
and I was just about "played out," when we reached
a "rance," where, after a pull of cold water that
must have somewhat alarmed my constitution, I
tumbled into a grass hanmmnock, uncommonly glad to
get out of the burning sun.
A pleasant-featured young Mexican woman, with
a dark-eyed good-looking sister, soon dispatched
between them one of the many chickens running
about the house; and while the cazuela was preparing, they very good naturedly washed out my shirt,
lending me, ad interim, some embroidered garment
of their own. The rest of my clothes were hung up
to dry, every stitch on me being thoroughly saturated.
H. and the canoe soon after arrived; and how we
did enjoy the homely but excellent fare our hostess
put before us!  Then came pipes and a siesta, and a
couple of hours' rest saw us fit to return. H. had got
enough of it, and borrowing a horse rode back to the
village; I returned in the canoe, and got a good
many shots en route.  Our bag was a mixed one,
and consisted of the birds I have already mentioned,
158 
A RIDE IN THE DARK.
with several others whose names we did not know,
and four rabbits. Wild duck and teal predominated;
and the guides could hardly stagger fromn the canoe
to the houses wvithl our united bag.
The sun was fast setting as we left Pira la Questa on
our return journey, and ere we reached the mountain top it was quite dark. Unable to see a yard before
us, but knowing that we must go on, I threw the reins
on my mnule's neck, and, lighting a pipe, resigned
myself implicitly to his sagacity, not only to find the
path, but to avoid the obstacles which at every step
lay before him.  My confidence was not misplaced.
With nose almost touching the ground, he seemed to
smell his way along, and not once during our long
ride did he deviate for a second from the proper
trackl, or make a single false step or stumble. Thle
sounds a,nd strange cries during the dark stillness of
the night were very remarkable.   Whether caused
by bird or insect I could not tell; but one in particular, resembling the prolonged whistle of a locomotive steam-engine, was frequently of more than a
minute's duration without ceasing, and of such volume
and intensity, that unless I had been aware of the
utter impossibility of a train being within hundreds
of miles, I would have almost sworn to so familiar a
sound.  The lights of Acupulco at last came in sight,
and our animals soon after deposited us safely, after
a somewhat trying but very agreeable trip.
The chief amusement of the Acupulcites appears
to be cock-fighting. On Sundays and feast-days the
pit is crowded all the afternoon, and the noise of
crowving from the warriors in waiting all round the
159 
TI1E TWO AMERICAS.
building is quite deafening. I observed that the men
never carried their machetes in the cockpit-a very
wise precautionary measure. No women were ever
present.  The population of the town is about four
thoulsand inhabitants, chiefly mixed breeds, with an
occasional dash of the nigger. Very few of its
people showed any pure Spanish descent; but on
the whole they were fairly good-looking and were
certainly very civil.
On the 10th of May, we ]eft Acupulco and steamed
quietly along the Mexican coast in sight of land until
we reached Manzanilla Bay, on the south-east part of
which are situated the few wretched huts that constitute the village.  The harbour is well protected
from southerly winds but not from those directly from
the westward.   Behind the village, and only a few
hundred yards from the sea-beach, is a large shallow
lagoon which runs nearly forty miles into the
interior, and at the end of the dry season becomes
almost empty. The exhalations at this time rising
from the mud and stagnant water are most dreadful,
and even at our anchorage the stench during the
night was almost unbearable. Hlow anything can
exist in such a f(etid atmosphere is in itself a puzzle;
but being the port of Colirna, a large city of forty
thousand inhabitants, lying some ninety miles inland,
persons connected with the customs, and merchants
doing business with the interior, are compelled to
keep it open.  Colimna is, I believe, healthy enough,
and near it is an active volcano a little over 12,000
feet high, bearing the same name, and occasionally
visible from the anchorage.
160 
l!rANZANILLA.               161
About three miles north-west from the harbour,
across the bay, a small brook is marked on the charts
as a watering-place.  Immediately after anchloring I
started for it, the sailing directions having stated
that duels, geese, snipe, and alligators, abounded
there.  Thie only one of the four mentioned that we
came across, was the latter, and on inquiring froin
the nativ-es, they assured us that none of the others
ever frequented tlie stream.  There wvere, however,
several kinds of water-fowl, which we knew from
experience wvere tolerably good eating, and plenty of
parrots and brilliant-plumlaged birds, whose feathers
were valuable for salmon-flies, so that we mtanged
to get plenty of shots at something, t'oiig,h we were
considerably disappointed in our expectations concerning the duck and geese.
While thus innocently amrnusing, ourselves, we little
knew  the excitement we were creating among the
harbour authorities at  Manzanilla.   That  people
should deliberately go out shooting in the heat of
the sun, or move in it at all without some particularly
strong inducement, was more than Mexican Customhouse officials could possibly conceive; and seeing
our boat put off from the ship for a distant part of
the bay, as soon as we had anchored, they at once
fancied some grave offence against the state was
about to be perpetrated, and despatched a boat after
us in hot haste; at the same time sending eight
mounted men (armed to the teeth) by the coast, to
intercept us in that direction also.  We were quietly
paddling about in the stream, intent on discovering
the whereabouts of the game mentioned by Mr. Imray
3I
161
MANZANILLA. 
THE TWO AM3IERICAS.
in his book of coast directions (a very wild-goose
chase we found it), while the excitement was going
on; and before our return to where we left our boat,
the Mexicans, by talking with the crew, became awvare
of the interesting fact that they had found a mare's
nest, and of course when we arrived concealed from
us the fact that they suspected smuggling, and had
actually planned our arrest.
On returning after the day's shooting, we saw a
strange boat lying near our cutter; her crew were
very civil and gave us some water-melons. On the
way down we lhad met a couple of men  with two
revolvers each, holding horses with holsters on their
saddles, but they said nothing to us; and only when
we returned on board did we find out, through the
American Consul, Mr. J. H. D., the excitement we had
been.creating in the quiet little village of Manzanilla.
INext morning, before daylight, we started with
Mr. D. across the lagoon, to a place about an hour's
row from the villa,ge, whlere he was in the habit of
getting wild duck.  The lake was so shallow that our
boat often grounded, and the oars at ea(h stroke disturbed the black ink-like mud that constituted the
bottom.  The sides were  beautifully wooded,  and
surrounded by ranges of hills extending far into the
interior, the edges of the water being fringed by a
belt of ma-rgrove-trees, whose peculiarly bright green
foliage contrasted pleasingly with the somtbre colouring of the leafless trees behind them.   The perfetly
stagnant water was of a light yellow tint, and as
full of alligators as it could well be. On reaching
;the shooting-ground, large patches of reeds, scattered
1,62 
KILL AN -ALLIGATOR.
along the edges of the lake, with fields of water-lilies
and aquatic plants growing around them, wTe saw
several flocks of duck, as well as spoon-bills, flamingo,
pelicans, jackana, and water-fowl innumerable.  Any
number of small alligators were basking on the thick
matting of weeds, through which the native boatmen,
bare-leg-ged and wading with the utmost indifference
pushed our canoe. They did not seem to care three
straws about even the largest of them; and at last,
familiarity breedinig contempt, we  also  got over
our knees in water, and waded about among them
perfectly unconcerned, intent only on the ducks.
Several eagles and hawks were hunting the ground
as well as ourselves, and once on winging a jackanaa very beautifill bird, with a spur on each wing and
large spider-like claws peculiarly adapted for enabling thieir possessor to run over the floating leaves
of the water-lilies  a  large and  handsome eagle
swooped down to whlere I was standing, and seizing
on the wounded bird who lay not fifteen yards from
me, carried -himn off, until a dose of No. 1 shjot, properly
administered, reminded him somewhat forcibly of
the laws of "meum  and tuum," and he paid the
penalty of petty larceny with his life. The boldness
of all the eagle, hawkl, kite, and vulture tribe in
these climates is quite remarkable; and as they are
never molested by the natives, they are not only
numerous, but so bold that thley will sit on a tree
without attempting to fly, though a man passes
within ten yards of them. After firing a good many
shots, and gatlhering a somewhat miscellaneous ba,,
(11. knocked over five ducks with one barrel), Mr. D.
2
163 
THE  TWO A lEl?.I CA 3
saw a large alligator asleep on some mud, lying half
in and half out of the water, and as I was the only
one of the party who had brought any bullets, he
sent one of the guides to show me where it lay, in
hope that I might get a shot.
Slowly and with the gieatest caution, I waded
through the water until I got within twelve yards of
where the brute lay, and  aiming about an inch
behind the eye, drove a bullet clean into his brain.
He gave a convulsive kind of shudder and lash withl
his tail, and was, I believe, dead; but to make certain
I gave him the second barrel at about four yards'
distance behind the shoulder, and  then felt quite
confident that I had indeed "wound him up." It
was some time before we could irnduce the natives to
assist in pulling him on dry land.  Though they do
not mind them living and swimming about, they are
particularly careful of a wounded one, a single sweep
of its powerful tail, even when  mortally stricken,
being known to break both legs of a man, like a
pipe stem.  Though dead enough to all intents and
purposes, an alligator, like either a shark or a turtle,
will continue possessed of a certain amount of vitality
and motion for a long period after life is really
extinct.  This fellow was still gently swaying his
tail about while we bent on a rope to it, and, all five
of us clapping on, soon hauled him to the dry mud
on the bank, where we took his length, opened his
Jaws, and generally examined the formidable-lookirng
reptile at our leisure. Ite was albout fifteen feet long
and inconceivably hideous. The first bullet had
rmashed a large hole exactly where I aimed, namely
164 
FIG.ITT BETIVEEN SHARKS AND ALLIGATORS. 165
about one inch behind the eye; the skull seemed
comparatively thin there, was unprotected by any
thick skin, and a large lump of his brain was oozing
through the wound. The second bullet went through
his heart; but I am convinced that it was unnecessary,
as the first shot had done all that was needful. Much
as people have written to the contrary, I am  quite
satisfied now that an alligator is as easily slain as a
rabbit, if only hit in the right place; and that place is
not in the eye, as is generally stated; but on the same
level, and from an inch to an inch and a half behind
it. The brain in all reptiles lies rather far back in
the head, joining almost to the neck. By striking
one in the eye from many positions it is quite possible
that the brain may not be touched at all; while, if
the-ball hits the slightest degree in front of it on the
creature's long,gly snout, the bullet might as well
be chucked in the river for all the harm it will do
the alligator.  Unsightly as these gentry are the
Indians occasionally eat them. The skins are sometimes tanned; but they smell so strong,  it is an
awkward job to handle them. During dry seasons
they collect in vast quantities in the small pools still
left unevaporated, and are then killed in large
numbers  for their hides, which  when tanned are
found serviceable for many -purposes.   They  are
tougher than ordinary leather, and resist water
better. Only the belly pieces are used.
Some few years ago, during a very heavy rain,
a number of alligators got taken out of the lake by
a small river running into the sea, which was greatly
flooded.   They were immediately attacked by the 
THE TWO AiMERICAS.
sharks, and a strange battle ensued between these
equally voracious monsters, which all the people of
the village flocked out to witness.  The battle lasted
all day, and thie noise of the combat could be heard
half a mile off. Johln Shlark was, however, more at
homne in his native element than his scaly antagonist,
and eventually the alligators were all eaten up or
killed.
The chief exports of MAanzanilla are cedar and
ornamental woods, any quantity of which grow in
the forests. Many of these woods are rare, one in
particular, "rainbow-wood," being particularly valuable. Rose-wood, mahog(any, and ebony, are quite
common; bilt the country is so little opened up, and
the inhabitants are so letlhalrgic, that hardly any
trade exists.  Colimal coffee is celebrated, but very
little is grown, and the whole country is gradually
going fiom bad to worse.
The  seining  party  had  a  pretty  good  haul,
getting quite a mixed bag —-a fislh, not unlike a
salmon, weighing about thirty pounds, and a very
fine well-conditioned turtle, being among the number.
We left Manzanilla on  thle 15th of Mlay,  continuing our course close to the shore up to Cape
Corrientes. The scenery was picturesque and diversified, consisting of raniges of wooded mountains,
extending as far as the eye could reach into the interior.   Not one single tract of flat or table-land
appeared anywhere, and the whole of Mexico seemed
nothing but a succession of mounlains all over the
coulntry; at any rate, for sixty mluiles or more
bordering the Pacific.
166 
-~~~~T BLS                6
On thie 17th we anchored at St. Bias, a small
village built near the mouths of the River Santiago.
It consists of one street, a custom-house, and a
quantity of huts rather picturesquely situated among
cocoa-nut, palmn, and banana trees. St. Blas is the
port of Tepec, a town of some importance, with a
population of 20,000 inhabitants, about sixty miles
inland, and does a small export trade in ebony,
mahogany, rose-wood, cedar, india-rubber, and tortoiseshell; it also has a cigar manufactory belonging to a
Seiotr Maardrasso, which turns out a very smokeable
weed. They are superior to those made at Tepec,
and although only $2 a hundred, are certainly better
than any cigars I have bought at Manilla, Brazil, or
Gibraltar, all of which places manufacture largely.
In fact, the only cigar that is superior to them is tne
genuine' Havannal, and that luxury few people ever
get  hold  of,  though they have Julian Alvarez,
Cabanna, or Partegas stamped on the boxes they
smoke  them  from.   Some  years  ago  I visited
lavannah, and smoked on the premises  of  the
above-mentioned  celebrated firms  many  of thehr
different brands.   I can only say that they were
very unlike the same cigar as sold by most of the
tobacconists and at half the clubs in London;  and
I do not believe one man in twenty in Eng(rland has
ever had a genuine Cabanna or Partegas even in
his mouth.
We were fortunate in meeting here a very nice
fellow, an American, who, having gone somewhat
throuoh the role of the Prodigal Son, was doing his
husk-feeding among the swine at St. Blas, prior to
167
ST. BLAS. 
THE TWO AMERIC.I4S.g
the execution of the fatted calf by his relations in the
States, who will, I believe, come to the front xvlwhen
they consider his penance sufficient. He was very
fond of shooting, and offered to show us the ground
if we liked to come withl  him; so takingr our guns,
in the afternoon we did a little pottering about the
settlement, prior to a longer expedition next morning,
for which we had to make arrangements.  We  met
during our strioll a few rabbits, crested quail, doves,
and p.arrots;  but owing to the cover being very
thick, and the sand-flies after sunset as active and
fierce as tigers, we did not make much of a hand at
them.  The rabbits were well-sized and heavy, and
the quail remarkably handsome birds, about tlhe size
of young partridges, and carrying a small Prince-oWal'ies-like plumne on the top of their heads.
Mr. F. having provided horses and a guide, we
started next morning at four o'clock for the shootingground, which we imamgined, from our guide Fokia's
description the previous evening, to be about five
or six miles off.  We rode along at a briskc pace for
aboult an hour, and then asked: "IHow far had we
to go?"  "Some way! " was the reply.  In another
hour wve again ventured to inquire, and again received the like answer; and at the end of the tlhird
hlour could only elicit the  same information to our
cross-questioning.  Our horses, who were wretched
screws, were about this period unmistakably pumped,
owing to our having, in ignorance of the distance,
pressed them somewhat at the commencement of our
journey, and we were uncommonly glad at hearing
irom a cottn.5'er, whom we found looking after a lot ot
168 
DUCK SHOOTIVG ON THE PIVER SANTIAGO.  169
bee-hives, that a cigarette, i.e., tle time taken to
smoke one, would bring us to our destination, which
eventually proved to be about a mile off.  The entire
distance, we afterwards learned, was twenty-four miles.
The village wvhichl we stopped at wvas called Autan;
and consisted of merely a few detached huts built
near a ford across the River  Satntiago;  a miudcoloured stream about the size of the Thames at
Richmond.  At the best-lookling and cleanest of the
shanties we took up our quarters, stabled our tired
n'lgs, prepared food, and made ourselves generally
at homre.  It is the custom of the country, and in
Mexico a man must do everything for himself. After
watering and feeding the nags, and getting some
brealkfast, we set off, but lost much time in finding
the proper place, having been directed first of all to
a lagoon at least a mile out of our road. On getting
there, a peasant told us that thoulgh there were lots
of duck, they were hard to get at, as no canoes were
to be had, and the sides of the lakle were thiclly
coated with mangroves, in many places impenetrable.
He strongly recommended us to try the river, where
he declared them to be in thousands; but all through
the village, and wherever else we inquired, the same
pleasing intelligence greeted us, namely, that "mocho
pattico" abounded.  With some difficulty we secured a
couple of canoes, and at last got fairly off on our
way down the river; and witlhin ten nminutes of the
time of starting, saw wild duck pluming themselves
on the bank, and had opened the ball by knocking
over a brace.  The further we went the more we
saw oi them, and at last we came to a kind of shallow 
TI[E TIVO AIIERICAS.
spit in the centre of the river, where they literally
were in clouds. Ewen in China-one of the finest
countries for duck-shooting in the wor]d-I never
saw them in such quantities.  They rose in thousands,
and though repeatedly fired at, constantly returned
to the same spot.
There were many var'ieties, some of them being,
larger than Muscovys, and of almost black plumage.
The teal tribie were  well represented by several
be:autiful species; but by far the majority were
widgeon, like those we had shot at Manzanilla, whose
prevailing colour was an exquisite light bronze.
Thlat we were to have come in for such sport,
never for a imoment entered our wildest ilnagination;
and though we both brought some  No. 1 shot, it
soon became expended, and No.5, our other kind,
was too small.  We lost a number of wounded birds,
the alligators took  a fewv  more, but  we  carried
home  twenty-nine couple and  a half, which  was
pretty good work for one afternoon, firing chliefly
with No. 5, which was not half large enough for
the heaviest kind of duck, or for some of the ranges
we often had to take them at.  I am quite certain
that, had we known our ground, had proper ammunitionr, and been on it by daylight, we would have
killed at least a hundred ducks each.  Had we gone
at them  with duck-guns we might have loaded a
waggon.
The country for a considerable extent on each
bank consisted of large fields of Indian corn, in
which the birds feed every night, and on which
they get fat as butter, well-flavoured, and deliciously
170 
ALLIGATORS AND DOGS.                171
tender, losing  all fishy taste completely.   Their
crops wlben opened were full of this grain, and the
damage and loss they cause the farmer must be very
considerable.  The river was full of alligators, whose
ugly heads were to be seen in aill directions.  Coming
back, we saw three large ones sleeping on a bank of
sand, about fifty yaids off.   I gave  the largest a
bullet, but as it evidently was not propetrly applied,
it merely caused him to hop into the river with
extraordinary agility and quickness, and his slumberingi comrades followved suit.
Alligators are desperately fond of dogs, not with
the same kind of love that we bear for the constant
companion of our wanderings, but with a carnivorous
affection, particularly unpleasant for the recipient.
Apropos of it,, I heard a story, to the truth of which
seveial.people vouched, but which is still so mnarvellous, that, although I believe it myself, I will not
ask anybody else to believe it unless they please.
Along the banks of the Santiago, on each side,
are numerous little villages, and in each village
are any quantity of dogs.  Now, on certain  occasions, even the most moral dogs become particularly
amorous, and when the fit is on them, naturally feel
desirous of visiting their kindred on the opposite
bank.  But how to cross the river?  Long acquaintance withl its dangers, and possibly experience handed
down from a long line of canine ancestors, have made
them so dread these yellow waters, that on ordinary
occasions they dare hardly drink, and swimming they
never think of.  Behol(l now the cunning, as well
as the power of love. IIalf-a-dozen go to the water's 
THE TTWO AMERICAS.
edge and commence howling.   In a few minutes
some twenty fearful heads gently protrude themselves
from the turbid depths, in eager expectation of their
prey. The curs slowly retire down the river, followed by thle heads; fresh slimy figures join the procession; and occasionally going so near the water as
to tempt their enemies, and still keeping up their
music, they lead the alligators a mile from home.
At this point the dogs redouble their barking, and
for an hour render night hideous by their constant
and incessant cries.  All the alligators within reach
of the noise are irresistibly attracted by its (to tl-em)
seductive sounds.  The river, opposite this nocturnal
concert, is alive with excited caim)en; and having
thus succeeded in obtaining an immense audience,
the cunning dogs turn tail, and race like lmad up the
riveF, dash across the now deserted ford, and from
the midst of their expectant companions chuclkle over
the alligators, who are left to crawl up the stream
again as best they may, labouring under the pleasant
conviction of h,aving been sold.
One of our boatmen was very clever at bringing
the canoe on birds, but was equally talented at getting
our brandy-bottle, which he seized and emptied in the
most barefaced manner whenever lie could claw hold
of it, wvithout so much as saying "By your leave."
On our way out we shot some cltic/ilaca, which we
had cooked, and found excellent.   They are noisy,
chattering birds, about the size of an English waterhen, but with bright brown pluinage, aiid long tail,
like a pheasant. They inhabit the dense forests in
considerable numbers, and are considered by the
172 
DISAGREEABLE ENCOUNTER.
Mexicans a great delicacy.   We  had a charming
moonlight night for our return ride, and reached St.
Bias about four o'clock in the morning, after a good
solid twentvyfoir hours' worlk; all day in the sun,
and all night in the saddle, but certainly after thle
best day's duckl-shooting I ever had.
On arriving at the town, sounds of revelry and
music proceeded from a house we were passing, before which a number of men were lounging about;
one of them gesticulating frantically drew his revolver, and stopped before my horse, which happened
to be leading.  It was rather startling, particularly
with the knowledge that, of all places in the world,
the cut-throat ruffian exists to greater perfection in
Mexico than in any other part of it. Having a pistol
handy, I instantly drew it, and was on the point of
shootiig the fellow down (which I would have been
perfectly justified in doing-nineteen out of twenty
Americans would not have hesitated), whlen, fortunately for the Mexican, Mr. F., who was behind, cried
out that he was drunk, so keeping my revolver cocked
I waited quietly, resolving to shoot him as quickly
as possible- should he point his pistol at me, trusting
to luck to get first fire.
The man, however, was not drunk, though he might
have been drinking; he wallked steadily enough, and
his speech, though loud and vociferous, was perfectly
distinet   To me it mattered little which he was, it
being quite as unpleasant being killed by a drunken
Mexican as a sober one; and though wishing much
to avoid bloodshed, and quite satisfied with my bag
of duck, I kept my finger on the trigrger, and watched
173 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
his everv movement as I never watched man (but
once) before.
For about half a minute we thus stood facing each
othier, and at last, much to my satisfaction, the brute
turned on his heel and walked off.
It seems that the ruffian was a captain of cavalry,
who had that evening come in on escort duty, and
had been on the drink ever since.  During the night
he had been firing off his revolver, much to evelybody's alarm; no one dare go near or prevent him,
and virtually he had taklen charge of the town.  The
fright every one appeared to be in of this exceedingly
disagreeable person was almost amusing, as one of
the authorities, who came up shortly after this little
episode had taken place, devoutly exclaimed, when
I told him I was on the point of firing, that "he
wished to God I had, as shooting would have done
him good."
The amount of briganda ge, robbery, and murder
that goes on in the immediate  neighbourhood of
St. Blas is simply dreadful, and life in Mexico seems
quite a drug on the market.  I may, for all I know,
have had a close shave of mine; but I can answver for
it, that my friend was as close to death that night as
he had ever been.  We were not three paces apart;
I felt as cool as a cucumber; and had the muzzle of
his pistol for one second covered my body, I should
have let drive at him like lightning before he could
have drawn the trigger, and IH., who was a few yards
off, would have let him have it also.  These brutes
are like vermin, and are generally treated as such,
being killed without any mercy when they show their
174 
MAZATLAN          17
teeth; but my little adventure ending as it did, I
cannot help feeling sincerely thankful that, much as
he deserved shooting, I did not fire.
Being somewhat short of fuel, and no coal being
obtainable in the place, we bought twenty tons of
coquito, or palm-nuts, from a German Jew, who considerately charged us, we afterwards discovered, five
times its market price.  This fellow proved  himself
an exceedingly sharp practitioner, as just when we
were leaving harbour,-indeed, we were under weigh
at the timne, he came alongside with a log of rosewood, which the first lieutenant had ordered for ship
adornments, but which turned out on examination
by the carpenter to  le only  mahogany,  and of
course not a quarter of the value of the money paid
for it.  We  left St. Bias on the 19th of May, and
reached.lazatlan the following day.
Mazatlan is by far the most important, as well as
the largest, town on this side of the Mexican coastline.  Some of the houses are well built; it has a
considerable population, and is the outlet for the products of the valuable mining district of St. Sebastian.
The town is fairly lhealthy, being built on the crest
of some heights clear of mangrove and swamp.  It
is comparatively clean, and has a good hotel, where
we manacged to get a decently cooked dinner.
On Sunday and Thursday evenings a military band
plays in the square, and until eleven at night the
fair damsels of the period promenade to its enlivening
strains.  The river, bearing the same name, is aIbout
a third of a mile wide at the entrance, and about
twenty miles from its mouth lies old Mazatlan, well
175
MAZATLAN. 
T1EB TWO AM1fRICAS.
known to ancient navigators as fair back as 1587,
when "Master Thomas Cavendish in the talle shippe
Desire, refreshed his gallanit company before cruizing
off Cape Lucas for a Spanish galleoll."  There was
no shooting to be had, the wvild fowl having all
migrated, and I felt the five days we remained
here, waiting for a chance of "freight," hang very
heavy on my hands, having nothing whatever to do.
zlpro])(s of fieight, I cannot help feeling that the
action taklen by England in this matter  is both
cowardly and disgraceful.  WYith the laws of Mexico,
whether they be right or wriong, just or unjust, we
have nothing whatever to do; and permitting H.M.
vessels to engage even sulrreptitiously in smuggling,
is certainly not acting up to the high tone of moral
policy which, in public, our statesmen are so fond
of vaunting as the leading characteristic of English
diplomacy.
With a view to prohibit the enormous and continua-l drain of bullion from the country, the Mexicans
have placed the crushing impost of nine per cent. on
all silver leaving their shores; to avoid this the
people having dollars or bars  which  they  wish
shipped, smuggle them on  board our mnen.of-war,
which-our diplomatic relations -with the country
having long ceased-seern to cruise in Mexican
-vaters for no other purpose than that of aiding and
abetting the subjects and residents in the country to
break her laws.
That nine per cent. is an arbitrary and unjust tax,
I do not for a minute attempt to deny; but that her
Majesty's ships should be mixed up with smiuggling,
176 
FREIGHT FOR H.M. SHIPS.
the officer in command having a direct monetary interest in the transaction, I consider still more arbitrary, unjust, and disgraceful on the part of England.
What should we say, iF German or Frenchl vesselsof-war systematically engaged in traffic in contraband
on our own coasts?  Or dare we attempt the same
game with any nation as powerful as ourselves? We
certainly have a kind of precedent for our conduct
in encouraging the people of foreign countries to
break their excise laws, inasmuch as for many years
we protected opium smuggling in China; but I am
unlaware of any instance in which we have so acted
with regard to any country able to hold her own, or
defend her constitution.
No people in the world are more apt to brag of
their national character for honesty and justice than
ourselves.  We  thrash the Cliinese, Japanese, and
Abyssinians, on the smallest provocation; we  go
friantic with delight at the great military achievement of a well-armed and disciplined force licking a
few miserable niggers in Ashlantee; yet we  let our
councils pass unheeded in Europe, sneak out of our
defensive treaties with Demark-(how bitterly now
must France regret her conduct in that affair),-and
submit to many  a cousinly kick from America.
Truly we have a deal to be proud of; but, I take it,
more so of the past than the present.  Our foreign
policy for ncai]y the last twenty years is enough to
make any person with the slightest spark of honour
in his composition, who takes the trouble to think on
the matter at all, perfectly sick with disgust.
Oni the 24th of May we left Mazatlan, and next
N
1 77 
THE TWO A3JERICAS.
morning saw a most remarkable and interesting sight.
On going on deck I found the ship in the midst of a
huge slhoal of porpoises, who were performing the
most extraordinary antics I had ever yet seen that
agile but otherwise sedate animal go through.  Not
content with takling unusual and terrific bounds out
of the water, they varied the entertainment by occasionally turning complete somersaults; while, at
other times, they  leaed perpendicularly from the
ocean, their entire bodies shivering like a fresh-hooked
spring salmon, or a lively sea-trout on first feeling
steel. Occasionally some thousands of them would
form line, whleel, and change front, with military precision, charging occasionally in perfect order. The
cause of all this commotion was an immenerse school of
small fish who had the misfortune to fall in the way
of the porpoises, and who were now having a particularly hot time  of it.  While these relentless
enemies pursued them in the depths and pushed
them towards the surface, thousands of birds had
congregated  over  the animated scene, and were
swooping down on the luckliless fish, who in avoiding
Scylla perished on Charybdis.  All manner of birds
seemed present; and, above all, soared the graceful
-frigate-bird, a predatory and rapacious gull, whose
stretch of wing almost equals that of an albatross;
but who, disdaining to work  for himself, chiefly
,exists by plundering others.  This game lasted for
'hours; and as we  passed  away  in the distance,
the occasional plunges just faintly visible on the
horizon showed that the work of death  was still
continued.  
178 
ISLANDS OF CERPROS AND NATIVIDAD. 179
Next day we sighted Cape St. Lucas.  We here
met a stiffish head-wind, and from this point commencecd the only miserable period of our long cruise
from England; for I honestly confess that the next
five weeks were the most irksome I ever passed on
board ship.  We ran out of coal, and had to beat iup
under sail, making occasionally twenty miles on our
course in one day, only to find ourselves the next
thirty farther off.  The coast-line was uninteresting
and desolate.  Barren, rugged, arid mountains of
volcanic formation, devoid of the smallest particle of
verdure, was the character of the only land we ever
sanw, and my cruising off Lower California will long
be remembered only as a species of hideous nightmare.
The coast was misplaced on the chart, and as our
chronometers were several miles out also, our track
occasionally showed us as being from ten to twenty
miles inland.  Shortly we ran out of beer and all
fresh provisions, and the  ship's company had to
go on half-allowance of bread, with every prospect
of its being still further reduced; so, what  with
one thing and another, everyone felt thoroughly
disgusted.
On the 9th of June we passed the islands of Cerros
and Natividad.  The former is twenty miles long,
and consists of a succession of high and abrupt
mountain peaks, ranging up to 2500 feet.  A  few
pine-trees are on some of the highest of these sharp
ridges, but nct a blade of grass or other sign of
vegetation is visible. Indications of quartz rock and
copper abounded, and many of the southern slopes
presented a dark red hue, interspersed with high
N 2 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
variegated cliffs, perfectly devoid of the smallest
particle of green.   About  this  locality we saw
numerous whales, and indeed for several days we
seemed  to be passed by incessant schools of them.
Many rose within a few feet of the ship, and
watching these huge mionsters-for they were of the
very largest size I ever saw-sport about, gambol
and  blow, helped  to relieve our monotony,  and
gave us something  besides our own  bad luck to
talk about.
On  the 16th we passed Guadaloupe, an island
about fifteen miles long by five broad, and containi)ng
a range of mountains varying from 2000 to 3412
feet in elevation. On the south side of the island
are two rocky islets at some distance from the shore,
the outermost of which presents a bare face of cliff
500 feet high.  On the northern extremity there is,
in comparison to the rest of the coast in the immediate vicinity, a considerable growth of timber.  The
island is uninhabited.  I noticed two very perfect
craters of an extinct volcano. The cones were still
marked by streaks of lava, and deep indentations
at the apex showed that at some not vely remote
period it must have been in a state of action.  The
slopes  of the mountains  were  gradua-l and  very
diferent from the abrupt foilations on Cerros.
A  day or so after leaving Guada,loupe we were
followed for many miles by a very beautiful little seal,
who was quite alone. At night he made several efforts
to come into the ship, and often rose to smell the
hands that were extended towards him.  We lowered
a grating and made several efforts to assist our little
180 
INEFFECTIVE GUN-BOATS.
friend on board, but without success; and at last,
though evidently reluctantly, he left us, but I cannot
help thinking he must have been some tame seal got
adrift, as such perfect confidence I never witnessed
before. About this time we were really hard up.
Biscuit all gone, except two days' half-rations; water
allowanced; coal only sufficient to anchor by; and
everything else equally short; so on the 28th we
sent the cutter to beat and pull up to San Diego (a
distance of a hundred miles) and get us assistance.
After she left we had a slice of luck, and succeeded
in making port on the last day of June (just as the
boat was coming out of harbour again to meet us),
after having been over five weekls doing the wretched
little distance of one thousand miles.
This brings my wanderings by sea to a close.
Owing to the incredible time of eight months which
the Rocket had taken in reaching San Diego, my
ob)ject in going to Vancouver had been entirely
frustrated. IKnowing something about ships arind
average passages, in talking the matter over,it my
club with H., prior to leaving England, we both
allowed, with every possible margin for delays, and
taking into due consideration the character of craft
she belonged to, that six months was the very longest
time we could possibly be in reaching Esquimault.
Had our deductions been right, our arrival would
have been on tlhe 4th of April-almost a pity it was
not the 1st, as it would have rendered the sell more
complete; but even then we both expected to havo
arrived sooner, and only allowed six months as being
the extreme limit.
181 
THE TWO A7ME RICAS.
AIy  intention  was to have  fished during  the
summer monthls in the various rivers of Vancouver,
British Columbia, and Alaska; howxiever, "L'hIommnte
propose et D)ieu di,pose," and to attempt doing all I
had intended, particularly as I wished to penetrate
as far north as possible in the new possessions of tlhe
United States, would have been, so late in the season,
simple folly.
rTo pretend indifference would be absurd.  Passionately fond of salmon-fishing, it was at the time
a bitter disappointment; and if I mentally blessed
the designer of such a piece of rubbish as the Ptocket,
it is only what he deserves.
His answer, I know,  would  be, "She is only
intended for river work, not ocean passages."
I have been in her in river work, and slhe is not
fit ftorit.  In the river La. Plata, H. lost his handkerchief overboard,  and shle  took  half  an  hour
cruising about the harbour, on a perfectly fine day, in
lier endeavours to get round to pick up a boat which
hbad looked for it.   The scene was somewhat ludicious.  H., in taking off his cap, dropped overboard a
l)andkerchief which was in it and a merchant-skipper's
b)oat happening to be near at the timie, he hailed her
to drop astern and pick it up, promising in return to
give him a towv.  Down  went the hlelm-scruncli,
s(runch, went the starboard screw to get the old
beast round -  and  away goes  the  good-natured
d1ipper to look for the lost rag.  After  a short
S(arch, the handkerchief, which lhas been floating
tranquilly astern, goes down, and the skipper again
tt:rns his boat's head towards his ownl ship.  Scruilch,,
182 
TNEFFECTIVE GUNBOATS.
scrunch, still go the Pocket's screws, as HI. again
sings out, "I am coming to pick you up!"  So apparently was Christmas. The skipper held up his hand,
the recognised sign among seafaring men of having
heard and understood, but continues at a slow
leisurely stroke on his way to his own ship.  Away
we go all over the harbour wildly endeavouring to
get round, a very sligllt wind and a two-knot tide
completely humbugging us.  Perseverance is however ultimately crowned with success; but as we pass
the skipper's ship, we see him on the quarter-deck,
and his boat all'eady at the davits. "I was coming to
tow you up," shouts H. The silent skipper smiles,
and again raises his hand.  "D —n it," says H.
turning to me, "if thie fellow had only waited, I'd
have towed him up."
All tllroughl  the Straits of Magellan and Smrnyth's
Channel, where the sea, owing to its tortuous course,
narrow passages, and high protecting mountains, is
far smootl-her than three-fourths of the navigable
rivers in the world, she behlaved equally badly, and
took five weeks in doing a distance performed by th
ordinary mail steamers in five days. In a dead calm
but with a little swell against her, she could never
go beyond three knots.   Under sail, her leeway
was something incredible, and nothing but a perfect
gale on her quarter ever induced her to go over
five knots. A battering charge from the 7-inch
gun invariably tore up everytl-Jing about it, nor do
I consider it possible that any number of shots in
the event of bombardment couild be fired from her in
rapid succession. Lookling, therefore, at her in every
1.83 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
possible light, her class is a rank failure; and it is
much to be regretted that a class of vessel which
almost above all others is most necessary to the
service in titie of war, should be merely represented
by the miserable failllres3 which are at present the
only kind we possess.
184 
>See page  32};.
BUCKSHOT'S ESCAl'E. 
I 
CONCERNING "UNIV'ERSAL SUFFRAGE."  185
CHAPTER IX.
Deductions concerning "universal suffrage" in South America and
Mexico-How they apply to England-Deductions concerning priest craft in South America and Mexico-How it applies to England San Diego - Los Angeles - Californian wine -- Quail - Ground squirrels-Californian driving —Sold-San Francisco-Expectoration
-Peculiarities-of dress-The 4thl of July-Soda Springs, Siskiyou
Co.-Headwaters of the Sacramento-Salmon-fishing extraordinary
-HeaIwaters of the McLeod-Dolly Varden trout-Watching a deer lick-Night-watch for a bear-A game salmon-Railway companies
and guns.
IN-DEPEXN-DENT of the mere interest inseparably attached( to visiting strange countries, much is to be
learned from observing their manners and customs,
and, I take it, few lessons are more beneficial than
thle one gained by travel.
Shooting, fishing, and becoming acquainted with
nature in its grandest and most exquisite features,
aire strong inducemenlts to most men; but to enjoy
these the traveller has to sojourn in many  lands,
peopled by  strange races, and living under laws
widely different from his own. By mixing freely
with these people, putting  all narrow  prejudices
entirely aside, and by endeavouring as far as possible to blend and amalgamate with those around,
a stranger invites confidence, and learns their civil 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
and relig,ious state, as well as renders himself more
welcome by the delicate and judicious flattery implerceptibly conveyed by endeavouring to adopt their
habits.
By these means I picked up a good deal of information in South America and Mexico, which, added to
what I actually saw, enabled me to arrive at satisfactory deductions concerning many things not quite
patent to me on leaving England; and, at the risk
of l:eing considered a bore, I shall erndeavour, in
as few words as possible, to put these conclusions
before my reader.
For some years past there has been  a steady
growth of what I call "Republican," and others
term "Liberal," ideas in England; and many advocates have sprung up who have freely given vent
in puilic, with an exuberance somewhat contagious,
to certain wild fantasies which ha'e been  eagerly
grasped at by the uneducated or idle.  Of all these
partisan cries, I know of none more mischievous than
the one for "universal suffrage," or, in still plainer
Eng,lish, the government of thle ignorant upon the
principle of being the most numerous.
The extension of the franchise has done mischief
enough, and is rendered none the less obnoxious
for hleaving been helped through Parliamlent by a
Conservative ministry; but "universal suffiage" is
an evil wl)icli at any rate may be prevented, and
hlaving lately observed its workings  in all thle
principal Republics of South America, the chief
countries in the world where it is most in vogue, I
think I may  be permitted to state what I havo
186 
CONCERNING "UNIVERSAL SUFFRAGE."   1S7
seen in connexion with its many and most notorious
evils.
I commence with Uruguay, it being the first of
these so-called "free countries" I went  to.  The
result of universal suffrage there may  be summed
up very shortly.  Everyone was discontented.  -The
men selected for holding the reins of office  were
invariably those who bribed highest, and, when once
chosen, as invariably repaid themselves out of the
public treasury for the expenses of their election, with
a considerable bonus to boot.  The country was in a
state of bankruptcy, and revolutions were incessant.
No  foreigner had the slightest guarantee  for the
safety of either his life or his property, and the
government for the time being was almost despotic.
A  few months after I left it, Monte Video was in
a state of siege, and such, without entering into a
lengthy dissertation, are a few of the chief characteristics of "universal suffrage" in UruLiguay.  In
Buenos Ayres, the nei,ghbouring state, things aro
equally  bad, and  they  were, at the time I am
speaking of, in an active state of absolute revolution,
and busily engaged in cutting one anrother's throats.
In Chlili affairs are managed better, but chiefly
owing to the accident which has placed efficient men
at the head of the government.   Were incapables,
armed  with the  powers  conveyed  to  the rulers
of this republic, in possession of the reins of office,
instant revolution would be tihe result; and I much
doubt if the most ardent)t admirer of republican institutions in England would approve of some of the
arbitrary acts of government  alluded to  by  me 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
already, in giving an account of Valparaiso and its
surroundings.
This strength of government, judiciously exercised,
is the one only thing among, republican institutions
t'hat I at all admire-the power as well as the will
to curb sedition Band cheek a mob.  Strange as it may
appear, all the republican governments that I have
ever cseen have invariably held the people in control
by a firmness of administration, mingled occasionally
with a little judicious (or injudicious) blood-letting,
that too plainly shows of itself the necessity for there
being strong measures always in immediate readiness
for the "universal suffrage" gentry when they overstep the bounds of prudence, and which my reader
may be quite certain would be equally necessary at
home if such a measure ever became law.
llhe republic of Peru is in a worse state than either
Urtuguay  or the Argentine  confederation.   Misappropriation of the public funds, corruptness of
tlJe ministry and all classes of government officials,
and a fearfutl prevalence of unpunished assassination,
are its chief characteristics-  none of them  very
favourable as exponents of the benefits to be derived
from an extended franchise.
Bolivia, Ecuador, and Central America, present
pretty nearly the same features; but the entire system
culminates in Mexico, where universal corruptness of
government, combined with individual dishonesty
and lack of all honourable feelings, again points out
the miserable effects of a "universal suffrage," terminating in universal misery.
WAVhat good, I should like to kriow, has tihe already
iss 
HOW IT APPLIES TO ENGLAND.. lS9
extended franchise done our country.  I could point
to many counties and  boroulghs in England and
Scotland which would certainly be better represent-ed
without it, while in Ireland it has ended in a perfect
fiasco.
The absurdity of giving a man a thing he does not
want, and has no use for, ought to be patent to the
meanest comprehension; yet the great bulk of voters
brought in by the Reform Bill neither wanted a vote,
or (bribery being pretty well checked) bad any use for
it.  A lot of unscrupulous agitators make thl)e "great
unwashed" inflammatory speeches, endeavouring to
persuade them that the country is going to the dogs,
because they do not takle an active part in the elections, and endeavour to show them, according to their
own lights, the difference between Conservative and
Liberal..
This political education of the masses is, however,
not quits disinterested.   Thie first object of a man
who has a thing he does not wvant, is to get rid of it;
but with these newly created voters, the difficulty is
how.  Of course they would prefer selling; but not
always finding a market, they naturally say, "Soand-so got us this thing; it is of no use, as we cannot
make an honest penny by it, so we'll just vote as he
tells us."  But as for using any personal discretion
in the exercise of their newly acquired rights, they
cale far too little about the matter to do so, unless
indeed some person comes forwtard whlo pronmises
them impossible and outrageous concessions, Iwhen
they generally vote for him.
This latter case in a country where the govern 
TTHE TWO AM.VERICAS.
ment of the ignorant upon the principle of being the
most numerous, is the law, is the great danger to be
feared, and is the one creative of so many evils in the
South American republics already alluded to.  So
also in England, the masses of the people, being in
numerical preponderance, and comprising the leasteducated or entirely ignorant of the population, are
always liable, like their prototype in South America,
to be influenced by false and seductive promises;
and in giving such people a vote, one is arming
them with a dangerous weapon, which, like a loaded
firearm in the hands of an inexperienced child, is
liable at any moment to explode, and possibly injure
their truest friend.
In a country where universal suffrage obtains, a
candidate for election must be prepared to flatter
andy laud the fools he intends gulling.  Accommodating himself to his audience, he appeals to their
vanity and not their judgment, their passions and
not their reason; and he who can lie most fi,eely
as to the transcendent abilities of the "great unwashed," has the strongest chance of being selected
for their representative.  With ministers taken from
such an elected Parliament, what has a country to
look for, save dis]ionour and disgrace? Their sole
object in the first place being to obtain office for
the emoluments it confers, they eventually become
subservient  to their tools to  retain it; and  the
masses, instead of being elevated in the scale of intelligence by the exercise of political power, aire
lowered by the delusion and craft to which they
become the willing victims.
190 
DED UCTIONS CONCERNIN'G PRIESTCRAFT. 191
As a rule, the Irish uneducated  voter is in favour
of some avowed rebel disguised in the flimsy garniture of " IHomne Rule," but in case of doubt generally
goes to his priest for advice, and a very particularly
nice lot they usually return; so, on the whole, I don't
think the country has gained much by an extended
franchise.
How very few people who advocate extreme
Liberal views know anything about the working of
their ideas except in theory! Italf of them have
never been out of Enland, and nine-tenthls never
beyond Europe; and yet they talk as confidently,
and lay down the law as plainly, in support of their
principles, as if they had from personal supervision made themselves acquainted with the interior
economy of every republic that exists.
Wit}} the exception of the United States (who
have, after all, very little to brag about) and Switzerland, those governments based on the principle of
universal suffrage have been proved an utter failure,
and, having so very lately travelled in nmost of them,
I consider myself justified in pointing out a few
of the evilIs that exist, with a distant hope of
inducing people holding these views to inquire for
themselves how the countries where they are
actually in play get on, and to learn also how
far  republican  institutions,  or  what  some  more
modestly term "extreme liberal" ones, would add
to the happiness, prosperity, and freedom of
England.
Next to the decided failure of universal suffrage
in the countries I visited, I was most struck with the 
TiTE TWO AMERICAS.
rapid decline of the sacerdotal power of the Riomish
priesthood.  In Peru they still manage  to  hold
their ground, chiefly owing to the influence they
possess over women and Indians.  A  strong feeling
is however growing against them, and a very few
years  wvill see their position  alter.  Chlili, wljile
preserving its religion, has entirely fieed itself fiom
priestly trammels.
Uruguay and most of the other republ:cs have
followed suit, and even Mexico, degraded and corrupt as she is, makes at any rate from time to time
spasmodic efforts to shake off the yoke of bigotry and
superstition that for so many years has sapped and
undermined her energies, and now neither monasteries nor nunneries are to be found throughout the
country.
It. is impossible for anyone reading the early
history of these republics, and visiting them afterwards, to avoid attributing their present deplorable
condition to the government and teaching of the
priests, who for so many years held unbridled sway
and were quite omnipotent.
In making these statements, I wish it to be distinctly understood that I am not urging a crusade
against their religion, and that I would not willingly
say one single disrespectful word that could wound
any person belonging to it. All the South American
republics are as much Catholic now, and as likely to
continue so, as they ever were; so are the Italians
and other Catholic nations in Europe; but, after long
experience, they have determined to check the palpable evil influences of its teachers with regard to
192 
HOTV THEY APPLY TO ENGLAND.
their perpetual interference in secular matters, to
suppress both monasteries and nunneries in every
part of their kingdom,  and  prevent  an  undue
monopoly by the sacerdotal power.  That is all I
would wish done at home.
Prior to the Reformation we suffered under the
curse of priestcraft, and very wisely made a clean
sweep, such as all sensible nations are doing now;
but why we should let things get quietly back to their
old standing-and they very quietly are,-is more
than I can understand. At the present moment I
firmly believe there are more monasteries and nunneries in Great Britain and Ireland, than in every
other Roman Catholic country in Europe put together. Surely the present condition of Ireland, the
most utterly priest-ridden country in the world, is
sufficient warning to us of the danger of such a
policy. Yet notwithstanding all this, and in spite
of the example we have set us by every Roman
Catholic country on the face of the globe, a man in
England holding my views on the subject, is, by
the greater number of its inhabitants, either looked
upon as a bigot or ridiculed as a fool.
Having sufficiently bored my reader, and relieved
my own feelings, by abusing universal suffrage and
priesteraf't in South America and Mexico, I can now
start fairly on my travels over new ground. Independent of slow progression, I had enjoyed my
trip in the R?ocket up to this date well enough:
time had rarely hung heavily on my hands; but
nothing to eat and nothing to drink for the last
month, with every prospect of just such another fate
continually overtaking one, was too much for the
0
i9li
, 1) 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
de]licate state of my nervous system, so, soon after
anchoring, I cleared out, and, wishiing my late companions "Bon  voyage," performed the rest of my
wanderings by land alone.
San Diego was originally an old mission settled
by the Jesuits as far back as 1769.  As a harbour it
is almost perfection. The climate is exceedingly
fine, the thermometer never falling below 45~ in the
winter, or rising above 85~ in the summer. Should
it ever become the western terminus of the Southern
Pacific Railroad, its rise in importance will be rapid
and certain; at present it is merely a sanitary resort
for the delicate and consumptive, and its inhabitants
can  merely  speculate on what  may result when
the all-hoped-for railroad meets them. It is only
fourteen  mriles fromn  the  Mexican  frontier;  and
fror  the Horton  House, a most comfortable  and
well-conducted hotel, stage lines run in all directions.
The lions of San Diego were soon visited, and
the same evening witnessed my departure for Los
Angeles, the chief town of the county of the same
name, and the principal seat for all branches of the
wine trade in California.
We left San Diego at seven in the evening, and
travelled during the night over as bad a road as it
is almost possible to imagine. Deep fissures on each
side, caused by the sudden and heavy rains in wet
weather acting on a kiln-di-ied and friable soil, sometimes became perfect ravines. Occasionally we drove
along the edge of a canon some thousand feet deep,
with thbe road so constructed that the off-wheels must
rass within six iincles of certain death.  At others,
194 
-~~~~O ANEES 
we descended places where the horses were almost on
their haunches the whole way, and the severe drag
on the wheels almost powerless to hold us. However,
it was nothing particularly out of the way for
California, and after a time I got sufficiently reconciled to my situation to be ab)le to look about me,
and rather enjoyed hanging friom my outside seat
over the brink of a can,on, and gazing on the
diminished objects right beneath me.
At about eleven the next morning we got to San
Juan, another of the old Jesuit mission-towns, where
portions of the stone and adobe church were still
visible. On our way we passed some magnificent
"ranches"-one I remember  in particular as belonging to an Englishman called F., which was over
eighty thousand acres in extent, fully stocked with
cattle, and beautifully situated on a level plain at
the foot of the coast range of mountains facing the
sea.  At 6.30 P.M. we reached  Anaheim, a small
town, from which a two hours' railway trip brought
us to Los Angeles, after twenty-fouir hours' driving
over the most dangerous roads I ever saw. The
coachman, like most other far-western Americans,
was well informed, and had gone through the usual
amount of hair-breadth escapes from Indians that all
these early settlers are so fond of talking about.
The day was fine, the weather warm, the atmosphere
clear, and I enjoyed greatly my  long drive, the
complete pleasure of which was only marred by
a blackguard at the principal hotel in Anaheim
stealing my favourite umbrella, after having in
vain endeavoured to make me late for the train.
The country in the immediate vicinity of Los
195
L OS ANGELES. 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
Angeles is highly cultivated and productive. Corn,
grapes, olives, oranges, castor-oil beans, and I know
not how many more fruits or vegetables are to be
had in the greatest abundance. The population of
the town is about thirteen thousand, and it is situated
on the Los Angeles river, twenty-three miles from
the port of San Piedro. Los Angeles is the chief
seat of the wine trade, and as most Californians
are exceedingly proud of their supposed ability to
produce a marketable vintage, and as they talk a
great deal about wines, and klnow almost nothing,
I may  as well warn my reader against forming
pleasing anticipations of good or cheap drinking
when he visits their country. Having heard Californians speak so rapturously of their wines, and
having from experience discovered the excellent
quality of many cheap and unmarketable vintages in
France, Spain, and Italy, as well as Madeira and
the Cape of Good Hope, which are never seen in
England, I was quite prepared to be delighted with
the native wines here, and was doomed to be disappointed.   During my journey through California,
(which  afterwards  extended  from  the Mexican
frontier to within a few miles of Oregon), I never
once tasted a commonly decent glass of wine.
Hardly anything was ever sold under a dollar a
bottle, and though I martyred myself in tasting it
on every possible occasion in hopes of something
wonderful at last turning up, I never once came
across even a moderately good specimen throughout the entire State.
Several enormous vineyards are in this district,
but none of the grapes beings ripe, and the season
196 
CALIFORlNIAN WVINE.
of the year being unfavourable for witnessing any thing connected with the working of this particular
branch of industry, I determined to push on for San
Francisco, so as to arrive there in time to witness
the patriotism invariably displayed by our American
cousins onl the 4th of July, the anniversary of their
independence.
The beginning of the journey having to be performed by rail, it necessitated a start at 3 A.M.; a
most inconvenient, and I am happy to say unusual,
hour for commencing a trip, but one which was in
this instance quite unavoidable, no other way being
available during the day. At 4.30 A.M. we met the
stage, and after an excellent breakfast we were
packed inside and outside as close as herrings in a
box, and commenced our journey.
The first portion of our drive was quite delightful.
The morning air was keen enough to render an overcoat desirable; the scenery up the mountain-passTurner's, I think, they call it - was very beautiful;
and the team, consisting of six horses in admirable
condition and full of go, rendered the whole thing
exhilarating and delightful. From the time of starting until past one in the afternoon, we were occupied
in reaching the summit of the hills, after which, for
several hours, we passed through a perfect desert.
On leaving Lake Elizabeth, the dust became unbearable. Huge whirlwinds, over a hundred feet high,
traversed the parched and sandy plain, and clouds of
red dirt obscured all things from our vision, and
penetrated to the inmost recesses of our wearing
apparel. After passing the desert, a complete change
came over the aspect of the country, and the hills,
197 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
which since leaving San Diego had been quite devoid
of trees, now became covered with handsome forests,
the pine, oak, fir, and ilex predominiiating.
The  country  seemed  alive  with  quail  (Ortyx
Californica, Autdubon), and I constantly saw at least
a couple of hundred birds in one bevy.  These birds
are about twice the size of the European quail, have
a darker plumage, and are crested. A worse bird
for the table I have seldom tasted, as they are dry
and flavourless to a degree; but they afford very fair
sport, and are certainly a pretty bird to look at.
Cotton-tail and jackass rabbits abounded, and on the
plains we saw the coyote (Canis latrans), a kind of
prairie wolf, thousands of ground-squirrels, and a few
deer.  The ground-squirrel, or chipmunk  (Tanias
striatus), is a curious, lively little animal, found in
great quantities over the western parts of the States.
From San Diego to Oregon they abound. I was
often amused by their quick, singular movements,
and the extraordinary curiosity, which, quite overcoming their natural timidity, frequently induced
them to jump upon a log or again leave their holes
after having been thoroughly fri'ightened. They are
about ten inches from end of tail to snout, of a light
yellowish brown, darker anteriorly, and on the thighs
toning into chestnut.   The under-parts are white,
and on the body are five distinct black stripes, one
dorsal and two on each side. Grizzly bears I heard of.
The old Vaqueros, or Californian gaucho, constantly
lassoed them; but there are not many left, and what
few there are have it pretty much their own way,
everyone treating them with much respect.
The latter portion of our drive into Caliente was
198 
CALIFORNIAN DRIVING.              199
down hill, and the way we raced along was wonderful. And now for a few words on coachmen. I
have had a good deal of coaching during my life in
various places-  in Ireland and Wales before the
days of railroads, and in many foreign lands since
then, but I can honestly say that I never saw any
men  handle their ribbons  like  these  Californian
drivers. Their teams, nearly always consisting of
six horses, are as well turned out, with regard to size,
pace, and condition, as any four-in-hand one sees
in the Park during the London season; of course I
do not allude to appointments or harness, or even
grooming-these are rough and homely enough.
The roads as a rule are simply frightful; often
hanging over the edge of a precipice, constantly
crossing at this time of the year the dried-up bed of
a river paved with huge round boulders, or going
down a declivity that many fellows would funk out
hunting.  They have no guard or anyone to assist
them, but work the brake themselves, go full spin
round  corners almost sharp enough to hide the
leaders, avoid bad ruts (chuck-holes they call them
here) in the most extraordinary manner, have less
accidents, and get more out of their horses, keeping
them at the same time in perfect condition, than any
other men in the world.  I am fond of driving, and
nothing gives me greater pleasure than to see good
driving. These men I consider the finest " whips"
in creation, and it is worth coming all the way to
California if only to learn what coaching really is.
Plenty of the members of our" Four-in-hand Club"
look very workmanlike in their tight-fitting trousers,
white box-coats, and curly brimmed hats.  Their 
THE TWO A3IERICAS.
teams are perfectly matched, and a long purse, or
long credit, procures them pace, size, blood, and bonle.
They  carry their  legs  straight, their  reins are
properly arranged in the orthodox fashion, and if
the two grooms they generally take behind, elaborately attired in buckskin anid tops, are moderately
active, they can get round a tolerably sharp corner,
or succeed in doing Hyde Park mucl-h to the
admiration of griffins or women, and to their own
entire satisfaction; but as to driving, in the real
sense of the word-well, ignorance is bliss, though
in their case it would not be folly to be wise. Our
old  coachmen  could  drive.  Between  Cork  and
Dublin and Limerick and Galway; and before those
days between London and York, there were many
real workmen. Friench, German, and continental
coaQlhmnen generally, are nearly all tailors. Like
most Englishmen, I always fancied that driving was
our speciality; but after going about a thousand miles
over Californian roads and with Californian drivers, I
confess that we cannot so much as touch them.
It was quite dark when we drove into Caliente,
and much as I appreciated the coaclhmanship of the
Far-West, I was delighted at the opportunity of
testing the convenience and (to me) novelty of a
palace sleeping-car, being  pretty wvell  exhausted
from my long day.
About ten miles before reaching Caliente, while
going quietly up a small hill, we were somewhat
startled by hearing a man's voice, in the most
distressed  tone  begging for help.   The  accents
were piteous, and the sounds seemed to corime from
a little wood, a short distance off the road.  We
200 
"SOLD."                 201
sung out, "What's the matter?" but could get no
other answer save, "Help! help!" and at last hlad
to pull up and consider what was to be done. Several
people suggested that" some one "should go and see
what was the matter, but no one seemed inclined to
move. One good-natured man offered to lend his
pistol to anyone that liked to go, but did not stir
himself; and for my own part, looking on the affair,
whatever it might be, as a purely American transaction, of which nationality all but myN-self were citizens,
I quietly determined to let them settle their own affairs
their own way, having however a shrewd suspicion
that there was a "plant" somewhere, though I could
not tell what form it might assume. My impression
was, that it was a dodge to separate our party, and
then attack the coach, while some of us were looking
for the individual requiring assistance.  A  naturalized Dutchman from the inside was evidently of the
same opinion, as, leaning his head out of the carriage,
he lustily bawled to our " coachy," "Mein gott, man,
why for you not drive? Drive, drive, drive like
h-11!" and fell back exhausted with contending
emotion and excitement. I never saw men in such a
fix. No one liked to go into the dark wood from
whence the sounds proceeded, yet no one liked to
drive on and possibly leave a fellow-creature in
mortal distress. Again the voice besought help, and
much to our relief a gentleman from behind, imnme
diately exclaimed, "By thunder! It's a ventriloquist
on the coach."  So indeed it was.  He knew the
Dutchman had money on his person for the purpose
of buying some property he was going up to purchase, and he merely did it to get a rise out of our
201
" SOLD." 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
fat friend, who was notorious for his timidity and
wealth.
I found the sleeping-cars delightfil; but unfortunately had the Dutchman in the opposite bunk, and
as he trumpeted variations through his nose with an
amount of power and vig,our I have seldom heard
equalled, the best part of my night was occupied in
stealing his boots and throwing them at his head, it
being perfectly impossible to sleep through his fearful
snoring. In the morning we stopped at Lathrop for
breakfast.  Not a hurried, scrambling, badly-served
meal, like we get in England on similar occasions, but
a good wholesome repast, consisting of fish, fruit,
three or four meats, and a dozen kinds of bread, and
all for little over two shillings.  Onr each side of the
line the country was perfectly flat, and every inch of
it cultivated. Corn-fields of from one hundred to a
thousand acres, without either break or fence, seemed
common enough. The carriages led from one to another, so that passengers could walk the entire length
of the cars, and at last arriving at Oaklands we crossed
the ferry to San Francisco; and, tired and dusty from
my almost incessant journeying by rail and coach
for three days, I drove up to the Lick House Hotel.
I was a good deal disappointed about San Francisco,
having been led to expect too much. The harbour
is a very fine one, undoubtedly, and well sheltered.
Some of the streets are well built; the houses are
large; and property is valuable; but the chief thing
about San Francisco is said in announcing that fiveand-twenty years ago it was merely a sand hIeap,
and that probably in another five-and-twenty it will
again have doubled itself. The climate, when I was
202 
SAN FRANCISCO.
there in July, was simply detestable cold, raw mornings and evenings, occasional fogs, burning hot noons,
and a running accompaniment of dust and sand at
all times. I was struck by the number of extremely
pretty faces I met in the streets, and nearly all their
owners were well dressed and graceful. The predominating cast of countenance among the men is Irish.
California Street is as busy and seems as much
crowded as any of our own thoroughfares in the City.
People jostle each other, expectorating profusely, and
as trade prospers, so in proportion does saliva seem
to flow. This shocking habit is not, however, confined
to one locality. All the pavements in the best streets
and vestibules in the hotels are similarly befouled;
but nobody seems to mind it, and well-dressed ladies
trail their dresses through it all with perfect unconcerp.  Habit, I suppose, accustoms them to what
Englishmen view with disgust; but a stranger cannot help noticing a custom at once so repulsive and
notorious. I do not think, however, any person giving
his views of the town and its inhabitants will find
any other fault, and as spitting is looked on by
them as being quite legitimate, their amour propre
cannot be wounded by its being mentioned. The
mere fact of being an Englishman-and somehow
they seem to know it instinctively seems to predispose everyone to be kind and civil. Everyone I met
appeared willing to go out of his way to do me a
kindness. I invariably met with the greatest courtesy
when brought in contact with perfect strangers; and
I think it almost impossible for any foreigner to leave
San Francisco otherwise than favourably impressed
with the natives he may have been thrown among.
203 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
They are a little given to brag about the wonderful resources of their State, but as what they are so
fond of talking about is, after all, only the common
truth, one can hardly find fault with their very
natural pride on such a subject. Tile markets are
most interesting, indeed about the best-worth-seeing
thing in the town. The Chinese quarter, to a person
who has never been in China, is of course extremely
singular; but having wanidered all over the Celestial
kingdom, from Canton to Pekin, many years ago,
it possessed but few charms for me. Woodward's
Gardens, the Park, and the Cliff House, should be
visited; after which very little else remains to be'
seen that one has not already habituated oneself to
looking at in every other decent-sized town all over
the world.
The Cliff Hlouse is an hotel and restaurant facing
the sea, a short distance from the" Golden Gate;" its
great attraction a couple of rocks a short distance
friom it, which are covered with seals and sea-lions.
The sight is an extremely singular one, and as very
excellent feeding is combined with this curious
sFectacle, and a charming view obtainable of all the
vessels entering and leaving one of the most thriving
seaports in the world, it naturally becomes a favourite,
resort for all holiday seekers. The Palace Hotel
one of the emtploye's was kind enough to take me all
over, and I need only say that at present it is the
largest in thle world, and seems well planned and
2omfortable.  The "Lick House" was quite the reverse, and I heard several complaints as to the "go-ahead" nature of the visitors' bills on leaving. There
are two clubs, "The Union" and "The Pacific," both
204 
PECULIARITIES OF DRESS.
of which were kind enough to extend their hospitalities to me during my stay in their town.
Some of the restaurants are admirable, and at one,
"The Poodle Dog," an American gentleman gave a
dinner to which he was kind enough to invite me,
which equalled in every respect any 1 ever saw in
similar establishments in either London or Paris. The
gentlemen's customs with regard to costume are at
times somewhat bewildering, and an Englishman
unwittingly may occasionally give offence through
not knowing exactly how, on their festive occasions,
he should apparel himself.  Our ordinary dress-coat
seems to be reserved for very great occasions, and a
kind of demi toilette, consisting of an open waistcoat,
black frock-coat and black trousers, seems to be de
rigzueur —the kind of "get up," in fact, one occasionally
sees a respectable mechanic wearing in England on
a Sunday. Of course one would be safe in adopting
ordinary evening-dress, but still most of us dislike
being singular, and, being unaware of the happy
medium, Englishmen are apt to plunge into extremes.
A  certain nobleman visiting the West fell into
such a trap, and I suppose for the next fifty years
one of the first things an Englishman will hear will
be that the Duke of    went to a party in a coloured
shirt. San Francisco is however so well known, and
described so fully in hundreds of works, that I will not
say any more about it. It is interesting chiefly on
account of the immense strides it has taken towards
prosperity in so short a time, but I do not think any
stranger having seen it once will ever care to do
so again, and certainly not if his first visit, like
mine was, should be in July.
20a 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
The celebration of American Independence unfortunately happened, when I was there, to fall on a
Sunday; and anxious as I naturally was to view
one of their characteristic and most popular fetes, I
must warn my readers against undergoing a similar
infliction.
From early on Saturday until the following
Tuesday morning, the town appeared to be handed
over to the tender mercies of hordes of children
of both sexes, who for three entire days kept up
an incessant and terrible discharge of fireworks.
Their chief amusement appeared to consist in
dropping crackers in the most crowded and principal
thoroughfares, with rather long pieces of touch-paper
attached to them, so that they might explode under
the dresses or feet of pedestrians who did not
diligently avoid walkiiig over tlhe smallest spark.
For carriages and horses they had another and far
more dangerous description of weapon. It was a
large bomb,-I think in the trade they are called
maroons or some such nai-ie, but often in a pyrotechnical display have I seen a discharge of them
usher in the more refined novelties about to follow.
The noise they produce is as loud as a small fieldpiece, and when scientifically exploded beneath an
unwary street-car, the result is occasionally extremely
gratifying to all part;es, and must add considerably
to the patriotic feelings which no doubt animate
them. The fourth, falling on a Sunday, the following Monday was selected by the Municipality
for the national holiday, and on Monday came the
usual procession. Most civic processions unaided by
military display are ponderous and stupid, and this
206 
THE FOUR THi OF JUL Y.
was certainly no exception.  All kinds of guilds,
crafts and interests, straggled loosely in semi-martial
array for a couple of hours past the windows of the
Union Club, where I perched myself to watch them.
Among the most numerous were a band of "The
Ancient Order of Hibernians," carrying a green flag
with a harp on it, and so large that the unfortunate
standard-bearer could hardly stagger.
I do not think at this period there is a single man
in England, unless he happens to be a lunatic, who
begrudges the Americans  their independence, or
who would have them otherwise than what they are
-prosperous and powerful; but why, in the name of
goodness, they should turn one of their chief towns
into a pandemonium for three days, and suffer the
inconvenience of crackers being fired at their legs,
and squibs at their faces, in honour of an event that
ought to be a source of pleasure, is more than I can
quite understand.
Disappointed through the lateness of the season
about getting up to Alaska, I cast about for
information respecting salmon-fishing nearer  San
Francisco, and hearing favourable accounts of the
sport obtainable in the head-waters of the SacraInento and McLeod rivers, away in the heart of the
Sierra Nevada mountains, I determined on joining
an American gentleman who was going up there,
and trying my luck on these little-known and
certainly imperfectly-fished streams.
Fortune was more than kind when she sent Joe
G. to be my companion.  Particular]y well read, a
first-class fisherman, brought up fromn childhood to
a life requiring a capability of roughing it, and
207 
THE TWO AMIERICAS.
accustomed to' all the shifts and expedients of a
backwood life, had I secured a comrade made to
order I could not have got a better one, and to his
companionship I certainly owe thlree-fourths of the
pleasures of the trip.
As far as Redding we were able to travel by rail,
passing  through  the San  Joaquim  valley,  two
hundred and fifty miles in length by about thirty
miles broad, and celebrated as being the great grainproducing farm of California. The size of the fields
is astonishing, and twenty miles of standing wheat
without a single break or enclosure is neither extraordinary nor uncommon.
At Redding we took the stage, and travelling all
night, with the usual team of six horses, arrived
next afternoon at the Soda Springs, Siskiyou
County, which was to be head-quarters during our
campaign against the scaly monster.
The drive from Redding lay through a forest of
pine, fir, and cedar; and as morning broke we
found ourselves well into the Sierras, whose high
peaks ranged for many miles on all sides. The size
of the timber was very remarkalale, particularly some
of the sugar-pines, whose broad, clear trunks rose
like huge giants to incredible heights above the
ground before the smallest branch broke the exquisite
symmetry of their appearance. I never saw more
magnificent timber; but at present its growth is
more ornamental than useful, there being no means
of carrying it from its native spot.
The road more or less ran the whole way near the
banks of the Sacramento, which at times lay many
hundred feet directly below us, and amid whose clear
208 
THE SIERRA NEVADA MOUNTAINS.
waters, even at these great heights, we could see the
salmon swimming about distinctly, some of the pools
being black with them.  The further we advanced
among the Sierras the grander the scenery became.
Castle rocks, rugged and fantastic of outline, a sudden
turn revealed to our astonished gaze, and Mount
Shasta, nearly 15,000 feet above the sea, covered with
perpetual snow, reared its majestic head far above
the neighbouring "butes," towering like a huge
bully towards the sky-monarch of all around it.
The hotel at the "Soda Springs" is kept by two
backwoodsmen-George Campbell and Uncle Dick;
who have for many years been settled in the FarWest.   The  house was  scrupulously  clean  and
comfortable, the charges exceedingly moderate, and
the two hosts, not only thorough sportsmen, but
well informed intellectual men, not too conceited to
work hard themselves, and only happy when they
were making their guests comfortable.
A  good many visitors come  here  from Yreka
and other places, merely to drink the water, which
from a small well opposite the house comes bubbling
and effervescing from the earth. It has a strong
pungent taste which grows rapidly in favour with
its habitual drinker, and is supposed by many to be
a sovereign remedy for all the ills the flesh is heir
to. Strange to say, it has not been analysed, but
people coming here with a multiplicity of complaints invariably declare themselves benefited by
its waters; though I think myself that it is quite
probable that regular living, good air, and total
abstinence from all intoxicating beverages (and I
never saw a drop of wine, beer, or spirits for the
P
209 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
month I was up here) may have had much to do
with their rapid recovery. For nay own part, I got
to like it immensely, and as I left the Soda Springs in
the same excellent state of preservation I arrived in,
I can at any rate guarantee that it will not make
any one ill.
The river is about a hundred yards  from  the
house, one of the best pools being the nearest spot.
We found it full of fish.  They would not rise at fly,
but took bait greedily, and were so easy to catch and
so little sought after, that having all the river at our
sole command we took it very easily, never commencing before breakfast and invariably returning to
dinner. The proof of the pudding is in the eating,
and without entering into any lengthy dissertation
on a sport so well known and frequently described
as salmon-fishing, I give the result of a week's work
to my own rod, the record for the remaining period I
stayed here being very similar.
23rd of July, 4 salmon, weighing, 12, 1221, 7-2, 82- lbs., each.
24th,,    7,,,,       12, 9, 7, 17, 12, 151, 17 lbs. each.
26th,,    7,,,,       13, 15, 6-21, 2321, 11, 21, 10 lbs. each.
27th,,   15,,,, 3,8,14,10,4,1521,7, 9, 17-, 18-,
12, 224, 6-, 16, 16 lbs. each.
29th,,   27,,,       7,192,9,15,14,13,13,92,,15,10,11,
15, 14-2, 151l-, 21, 15, 2, 6'-, 15, 13,
92, 15, 2,-, 12L,7 7l, 13, 15 lbs. each.
The 29th was the only day I really worked hard,
and then did not commence fishing until 7 A.3M.,
and, having allowed myself an hour for luncheon
and a meditative pipe, ceased operations at 6.30
P.M. Nearly half these fish I gaffed and landed without assistance, and I very much doubt if there is
any record of any one person having killed a greater
210 
SALLION-FISHING EXTRAOR?DINARY.
number in a shorter time, in any other river in the
world.
For eleven hours and a half, excepting luncheon,
which is only a polite name for a rest much needed,
I was in salmon, as hardly a minute elapsed after
one was captured before another was on, and back
and arms bore testimony the next day to the
severity of the contest.
This fishing, gentle reader, is yours if you like
to come for it.  Without one penny of cost, all the
rivers of the West are at your disposal; and whern
I remember the prices charged on the Lochy, the
Thurso, Castle Connell, and a host of other places,
where the sport obtainable is not one quarter as
good, I am surprised ingenuous youth does not
occasionally find its way out here, where deer, bear,
and salmon are only waiting their disposal.
To  my idea, one of the greatest  luxuries connected with salmon-fishing lies in not being hurried.
At Lough  Tay I was always bustled off before I
l,ad half finished my bre(akfast; and how distinctly
I remember, at a well-known  river not a hundred
miles from Connemara, the rush, and bad feeling engendered by the perpetual anxiety daily displayed
to get first on the best throws. To keep a favourite
pool, a man would either remain all night or start
long before daylight the next morning.
Once I was tempted by the enthusiastic "gossoon"
who constituted himself my attendant, to attempt to
cut out a Manchester tradesman, who, more energetic
than skilful, invariably got the best water to make
the worst use of.  At  an hour, horrible to contemplate, some  small  pebbles struck against my
p 2
211 
THE TWO AMEIBICAS.
window, and as I opened it, a subdued voice from
without-'-" Whist! Whist! yer honour; kape quiet
what iver you do, and don't be after waking thimn
blackguards below yer. Bedad! we'll do them this
turn any how."   With  the  utmost  caution  and
carrying my boots in my lhand, I proceeded to arouse
my comrade, a Scotch Baronet, invariably' eager for
the "fisly fray," and in the shortest possible space
of time we were wending our wvay to the favourite
pool with the delighted Pat, who  was exuberant
at having, as he thought, done the tradesman.
Imagine our horror when, a few minlutes afterwards,  we  found  "Manchester"  hard  at work
thrashing the river in the very place we were going
to, and all our trouble taken for nothing.  Our  bete
noir, though an unskilful fisher, was a keen man of
busii4ess, and having paid his t3  for the week's
sport, was determined to get his pound of fish if
possible.
Hlere one rarely finds the slightest competition,
and as salmon are quite at a discount, the only
anglers one ever meets are those who confine their
attention entirely to trout.  The trout-fishling is as
first-class proportionately as the salmon, and Mr. G.,
who generally devoted himself to that branch of
the gentle art, usually brought back from nine to
eighteen dozen, the largest running to about three
pounds.
T-The fishing was so good, I paid little attention
to the shooting; but deer must have been round the
locality in very la'rge numbers, as the ground in
places wals quite cut up by their trails, and I do not
reimeIl-ber Ca-mpl:ell ever having a blank day when
212 
MOUNT SHASTA.
he went out to provide venison for the table.
There were a few coveys of mountain-quail about
the house; but for bear and deer, at certain seasons,
a man could not get a much better starting-point.
From the Soda Springs I went to Sissons, a prettily
situated  ranche  at the  foot  of Mount  Shasta,
intending to climb to the crater for the view, it
being one of the highest "butes," as they are called,
of the Sierra Nevada, and with a chance also of
getting a shot at a mountain-sheep on the way
there.  When, however, I arrived, the country was
so overwhelmed with the smoke of burning forests,
that the view part of the undertaking was at once
demolished, and as a crack at the mrnountain-sheep
seemed somewhat problematical, I retraced my steps
and got ready for camping out with Mr. G. on the
banks 0of' the McLeod.
The McLeod river lay by a rough trail through the
forest about twenty miles from the Soda Springs, and
having chartered a light waggon and pair of horses
for the job, we started one morning with rods, tent,
&c., and all the necessary paraphernalia for an
outing.  Sam McNeil, our driver, was the slowest and
most careful "whip" I met in California, and gave
us ampler time than was perhaps quite requisite to
admire the magnificence of the forests of stately timber
through which our road lay;  however, all things
have an ending, and after making, a trail for the
last couple of miles through somie scrub and brushwood, we at length halted in a beautiful grove of
trees on the banks of the river, and set to work
pitchling our camp. This done, we caught a large
basket of trout, the best of which we had for dinner:
213 
TIHE TWO AMERICAS.
and piling heaps of wood as it grew dark on our
fire, until the flames illuminated the tall pine-trees
to their highest points, we smoked and chatted by
its cheerful light.  Voting that the tent, though
an ornamental addition to the picturesque effect of
the surroundings, was utterly unneedful in such a
chatrming climate, we cast ourselves on a luxuriant
couch of friagrant boughs; and canopied only by the
blue vault of heaven, and soothed by the music of
the rushing stream whose murmuring waters acted
as a sweet lullaby to our wearied framnes, tired and
worn out with prolonged slaughter, we slept as sound
as the proverbial "top" of innocence and childhood.
The  MIcLeod  is, without  any  exception,  the
" gamest" river I ever fished on, and in no other
water in the world have I ever seen trout so perfectly
conditioned or so well-fed.  Thlough but ten  miles
from its source, it possessed a body of water almost
equal to the Shannon at Castle Conrnell, and of so clear
and transparent a quality, that in pools of from
twenty to thirty feet deep the smallest object could
be discerned on the bottom, and the movement of
every fish watched as he darted at the hook.
Daily we killed large baskets of trout, among
whom  were many "Dolly  Vardens,"  but  unfortunately the salmon had all either spawned or were
spawning.   The river was absolutely full of them,
and while fishing for trout we were perpetually
hooking the huge brutes, who played the mischief
with our tackle, and were utterly useless when
banked.  Spoon or bait, it was all the same; they
would take anything, and I seldom managed to get
through a day without killing at least six or seven,
214 
THE MOLEOD RIVER.
though I did all I could to avoid them, constantly
lifting my rod when I saw them coming. The
average weight of these ill-conditioned gentry was
about 18 lbs. I saw some dead ones —(the mortality
that prevails among them after spawning is inconceivable; so much so, that many of the inhabitants
firmly believe they all die)-that weighed at least 40
lbs., and hooked several that were even larger. I am
quite convinced that at the right season the salmonfishing in this river mulst be simply wonderful, and
as they take a fly in the Shasta, which is but a few
miles distant, it is more than probable they would
rise to it here also.
The " Dolly Varden " is looked upon by the
natives as, if not a lusus nature, at any rate a fish
peculiar to the waters of the McLeod, and they are
consequ~ently proud of possessing what they believe
to be a singularity. Nothing annoys a Welchman
more than to tell him his cherished "sewin" is a
sea-trout. For my part, though I have killed many
of the former, and several hundredweights of the
latter, I am unable to distinguish the difference, and
for a like reason am equally convinced that the
"Dolly Varden" is a genuine trout.  The ordinary
trout inhabiting the waters of all rivers west of the
Rocky Mountains, bears no specks of red like his
English prototype; instead of which, he carries a
bright vermilion lateral line, extending from the
gills to the tail on each side of his body. The trout
in the McLeod are beautifully shaped, and indeed
possess the most perfect forms of symmetrical excellence I have ever seen exhibited in any other of their
species. Their bodies are deeper, their heads smaller,
215 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
and their general colouring more brilliant, than the
trout (salino fario) of our native land; but above all
those attributes, they have a gameness and deter mination when hooked which is only equalled by our
sea-trout (salmo trutta), a totally different fish. We
killed none above 321 lbs., and from what I could
gather from old fishermen on the river, they seldom
exceed that size.
The " Dolly Varden" (and not having, I regret to
say, the slightest claim to be considered a naturalist,
I shall not attempt to classify, but merely allude to
it by the local name) possesses far more of the
attributes of the salmo jario than the ordinary
trout of the Pacific rivers. Its markings are similar
to our lake - trout, except that the red spots are
brighter and more distinctly perceivable above the
lateral line than in any home species I have ever
observed.'   Their weight varies  considerably.   I
have heard of them running as heavy as 10 lbs., but
our largest was 421 lbs.  Its head is large and coarse,
and stretch of jaw prodigious enabling it to swallow
with little difficulty fish of certainly a quarter its own
size. Its body is thicklset and round, but unduly long
in proportion to its depth; and though undoubtedly
rapacious, takling freely spoon,  phantom  bait, or
minnow, it is when hooked a sluggish, cowardly fish,
affording but little sport, and is not particularly good
eating either.  Its shape is, in fact, as like a' pike's as
it well can be, or, describing by trout analogy, it
Would look like an ill-conditioned cross between the
salmo ferox and gillaroo.  To  my  unscientific eye
it is only a badly conditioned species of the salmo
ferox, whose ungai ily proportions are more promi
216 
"DOLLY VARDEN" TROUT.
nently brought to notice through being unusually
placed in juxtaposition with the ordinary trout of the
McLeod,  the  most symmetrical  and beautiful in
existence.
In the neighbourhood of our camp, and along the
banks of the river, were situated several deer-licks,
and, tempted by the number of beaten tracks leading
to and from them, I determined one night to experimentalise on this very ordinary method of shooting
them out here.
A deer-lick is generally a small spring of saline or
sulphur-impregnated water, to which, should it be a
tasty one and not too frequently disturbed, all the
deer in the country for miles and miles will come
to "liquor up."   The modus operandi is simplicity
itself, and consists merely in concealment and waiting
for a shot,-not particularly sportsman - like, or as
good fun as stalking, still in the backwoods sport is
not always the only object; occasionally one wants
food, and it requires a little endurance to lie entirely
alone all night amid the profound stillness of a
primeval forest, with no fire, no pipe, no companion,
and not even a dog. One afternoon, shouldering my
blankets and food, I started for a neighbouring lick,
which at some distance from our camp lay close to
the river's bank, and, concealing myself on the
opposite side, conmmenced the vigil.
Reader,-h ave you ever been alone all night? I
do not mean in your bedroom, or even riding or driving on a beaten road; but absolutely companionless
in the hearit of a great forest, extending with but
little intermission for hundreds of miles, without
either fire or pipe, and entirely occupied with watch
217 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
ing, while vision lasted, a small opposing space? If
you have-well, I hope you liked it; for I cannot say
that I did; but still, I wanted to judge of the sensation,
and having made up my mind to get a deer, would
have stopped a fortnight rather than be baulked.
The shadows lengthened on the water. The sun
went  down.   Mosquitos and  bats succeeded  the
butterfly and blue jay, but still no sign of deer.
Darkness set in.  In the intentness of my watch
prior to nightfall, I had neglected to select a comfortable spot to lie on. I now found myself apparently
balanced on sharp stones, like the needle of a compass, in whichever direction I turned. It occurred
to me that bears often came along the river to feed
on deaid salmon (indeed, we had seen many of their
tracks), that at times they are clumsy and stupid, and
that one might stumble over me by accident  and
cause a fight.
We killed a lot of rattle-snakes at the Soda Springs
while I was there. It appeared to me now that this
place was full of them. I heard their rattling distinctly. I longed for a pipe, but with stoical resolution I refrained from tainting the atmosphere. The
trees assumed a thousand curious and fantastic
shapes, quite incompatible with well-behaved vegetable life; in fact, I spent a particularly unpleasant
night of it, and felt much relieved when the dawn
of morning dispelled the gloomy visions and imaginations of darkness.  Still, however, my long guard
was unrewarded, and at nine o'clock Sam McNeil,
who brought a pack-horse to carry back the expected
buck, found me still watching, but unsuccessful.
Would I ride back to camp for breakfast? No. I
218 
WATCHING A DEER-LICK.
still had a morsel of bread. In the evening he might
bring me provisions, but stir I would not till a buck
lay slain. Sam went off possibly thinking me a
lunatic, and for another hour I watched, now, however, varying the monotony with a book. At last
my patience was rewarded, for on looking up to turn
a page a deer stood before mne.
So soft and noiselessly had it approached, I never
detected the slightest sound.  The rest was simple
enough. A second after my bullet crashed through
its heart, and thus ended my first experience of
watching a lick. Another time I think I could (and
did) improve on it; but having got through the first
attempt, I felt that the next would be simple enough,
and I learned from experience that I could soon
accustom myself to solitary hunting if it became
necessary.  Except for the sake of food, I do not
recommend anyone to undergo this ordeal, as deer
are not worth it; but still, as bears are best got at
by midnight watching, and an occasional vigil in
darkness and solitude is at times a necessity during
a sportsman's life, perhaps one trial by way of
practice will do no harm, and I can guarantee that
the second, if taken, will be far less irksome than
the first.
A  few Indians, "Diggers," occasionally camp for
salmon-spearing near the river's banks, and it is not
bad fun on a "lazy day" to see them picking them
out. They seem quiet and well-disposed, though the
distance from the "lava beds" is only seventy miles.
These are famous as the scene of the last Modoc war,
during which "Captain Jack," a noted Indian chief,
baffled the vigilance and energy of the United States
219 
TiE TWO A MERICAS.
troops, killing several of them, though at length slain
himself.
On several occasions, after fishing in the Sacramento, dead salmon were unavoidably left on the
banks; as they were invariably taken off by bears,
Mr. G. and myself determined one night to watch
for them. Baiting a spot convenient to our ambuscade, which lay on the opposite side of the river,
we took our blankets one afternoon to the selected
place, and  watched  diligently all night, without,
however, any success. No bear came near us, and
a solitary wild duck, wl-ich I decapitated with a
bullet after giving up all hopes of getting game
more distinguished, was our sole reward.
Notwithstanding my- own want of success, I can
strongly recommiendanyone staying here to "go in" for
bears, as hardly a day passed that their fresh trails were
not seen inr the vicinity of our fishing, and immense
numbers must be in the neighbouring mountains.
The mortality among salmon both in the McLeod
and Sacramento rivers after spawning is very remarkable, and as the bears are in the habit of regaling themselves on the savoury morsels thus provided, to leave
a few fish as a lure early in the season, becfore the
novelty by repletion becomes worn out, is the best
inducement I klnow of to get the generality of them
to offer a shot. I nearly forgot to mention that the
salmon of these rivers is as game a fish as ever swallowed hook.  The  niere fact of my  having killed
twenty-seven of them in one day, might induce
people to fancy that strong tackle and muscle was all
that was necessary, and an account of my successes,
published in the Field newspaper, actually did pro
220 
FISHING IN THIE SACRAMENTO.
duce a letter from some ignorant or jealous person,
who, writing under the assumed name of" Phoenix,"
stigmatized the sport I had been  enjoving "as a
mere slaughter of useless and worn-out fish utterly
unable to afford sport."
Owing to my having been on the Rocky Mountains  on a shooting expedition, some time elapsed
before this unwarrantable attack was brought to my
notice; but as my letter in reply embraces pel ty
well the whole pith of Sacrametto salmon-fishing, at
any rate so far as the sporting qualifications of the
fish are concerned. I give my letter on the subject at
full length:
"Fis/?hi  in the Sacramento, Cal!fornia.
"Hav'ing been for the last few months shooting in
some of the most out-of-the-way places in the western
portions of the United States, I have only just had
brought to my notice a letter by'Phoenix,' who,
writing from California, criticises somewhat severely
an account sent by my brother to your paper of the
salmon-fishing in the head-waters of the Sacramento.
"Of all the bores a man can ble inflicted by on this
transitory sphere, a newspaper controversy is about
the greatest; and were it not that' Phoenix's' letter
is calculated to mislead many fishermen, who next
year may visit America for the centennial comnmeinoration, I should not trouble you with  this
letter.
"Salmon, as' Phoenix' observes,  will  look at
nothing in these waters but roe. Day after day I
have vainly endeavoured to tempt them with every
221 
TTHE TWO AMLERIICAS.
description of lure.  Every sort of fly-and I had
some hundreds with me- failed to move them.
'Worms' was not their'diet'; phantom and small
trout they would not look at; they could not even
be induced to' spoon.'  This being the case it merely
became a question of fishing or not fishing.
"Now, salmon, with the assistance of a rod, are
either killed by fly or bait, and I should imagine
that only a lunatic would employ the latter where
the former would answer his purpose.  Still, during
the seasons on particular waters, where a man might
as well thrash a turnpike-road as cast a fly over the
uncompromising fish, the latter method is constantly
employed, and I have paid as much as ~5 a week for
permission to fish on Loch Tay at a time when no
other could be used.  At the commencement of the
season at Castle Connell and other places I have been
compelled to fish in like manner.
"I may be singular, but to me (as relative to flyfishing) all bait work is alike, whether, roe, worm,
trout, phantom, or minnow, and I only use them after
experience has told me that flies are worthless.
"The use of roe in Europe is most properly condemned, as being unsportsmanlike and wrong; but
in the Sacramento, not only will the fish look at no
other kind of bait, but the river is so overstocked
that hundreds of thousands of salmon perish annually
during spawning time, and instead of the river
suffering from so deadly a manner of killing fish,
almost any method employed to thin their number
would improve it.
"If' Phoenix' tlhought proper to employ an Indian
to spear him salmon, and thlen fished for them out of
222 
CALIFORNIAN SALMON-FISHING.
season, when they neither afforded sport nor were
good for food, it is his own affair-' Chacun a son
gout.' I neither did the one nor the other.
"Almost every day we ate salmon for luncheon,
which we cookled ourselves by the river's bank, and
most of us preferred them infinitely to trout.
" As to their affording no sport, I can only say that
I have fished ill Norway, Nova Scotia, Scotland, and
Ireland, and have never handled gamer fish.
"One of my favourite casts (not with the two-hooked
implement so well appreciated by' Phoenix') was at
the hlead of a large deep pool, into which flowed a
heavy rapid. Close to where I stood a shelving
l)ankl afforded good landing-ground, but a steep rock
and some overhanging trees prevented a fish being
followed. The pool was so large and deep that a
salmon.seldom tried to leave it; still, occasionally
they did, and when they did, used-ip and powerless
as' Phoenix' describes them to be, I, at any rate, was
unable to control their headlong rush.  In case this
inability might be attributed to either inexperience
or personal decrepitude, I may as well state that I
hlave killed salmon for over twenty years, commencing at the tender age of thirteen, when I landed
my  first fish.   That the tackle I used  was  the
strongest and best I ever had, thl,at I walk over 14
stone, and was never a weelk sickl or sorry in my life,
and yet no less than five different fish compelled me
to swim, with my riod in one hand, this long deep
stretch of water, ice-like in temperature, from the
small streams flowing from the perpetual snows of
Shasta and otlher high points of the Sierra Nevada
Mountains, and by no means the kind of water one
223 
THE TWO A31ERICAS.
would select for a bath in a shooting-coat. I could
not get round the bank; I had to follow my fish or
lose him, and I preferred to follow.
"On another occasion I saw a salmon, after ruening out eighty yards of line, take a great big backwoodsman a quarter of a mile down the river. A
rapid here prevented his following, and as a last
chance he threw his rod over after the fish. Fortunsately no accident happened, and at the bottom the
rod was secured. No sooner was the line tightened,
than away rushed thie fish; but Mr. Goodman getting
before him, and beating the river with his gaff, he
once more turned and again went up the rapid, the
holder of the rod this time following, owing to
having more line on the reel, and after twenty
minutes' more severe play he was lkilled.
"These are the fish tlhat' Phoenix' characterises as
'having neither strength nor pluck,' the killing of
which he designates as'mere slaughter.'
"I do not know where'Pllenix' fishes, or what kind
of salmon he is in the habit of catching; but for my
part, unless we can ci'oss them with either a fox or a
flying-fish, so that after an hour or so at the end of a
line we can clap on a packl of hounds, or try them
with a hawk, I do not know where to get a gamer fish
than the salmon of the Sacram.ento.  My friend, Mr.
J. T. Goodman, one of the best fishermen in America,
and a well-known man in San Francisco and all the
West, saw these events occur, and will corroborate
my statement, should corroboration be considered
necessary.
"I shall not trouble you on this subject again.
Should'Phoenix' think proper to do so, I hope it
224 
FERRIES.                225
may be with proper name and address. I shall be
in California for salmon-fishinig in July, and should
much like to thank him for the courteous manner in
which he criticised my brother's letter."
The Sacramento, Klamath, Shasta, and McLeod
rivers, are not more than' twenty miles apart, and
come into order in succession.   So that the very
cream of each may be gathered by a man visiting
them one after the other.  In the Klamath and
McLeod the salmon run very heavy, and in the
Shasta they take a fly.
I felt quite sorry at leaving the Soda Springs. The
fishing was so superb, everything was so clean, comfortable, and homely, and Campbell and Uncle Dick
were such unaffected thorough sportsmen, and so
very obliging and kind.
On the 16th of August we left by the Oregon
stage, and after a somewhat dusty drive in an unpleasantly over-crowded coach, reached Redding at
12 P.M.  We passed innumerable worked-out mining
operations on the banks of the Sacramento, where
some years ago the search after gold had been ardent
and unceasing, and still a few straggling camps
showed that there remained sufficient of the precious
metal to render the river attractive to the industrious
or sanguine.   The ferries across the Sacramento,
McLeod, and Pitt rivers, seemed excellent contrivances.   We  drove our six horses straight on
board, and one man took the boat across by means of
a windlass, without our having either to unharness
or unload the coach. Notwithstanding the boasted
q
225
FERRIEF S. 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
superiority of American railway travelling over
everything similar in the world, a European finds
pretty well as many faults here as at home. Tihe
train leaves ledding at twelve o'clock at night with
the mail and passengers from Oregon. These people
are four days and nights on about as bad a road as
can well be found, and will not reach San Francisco
until late next afternoon-about double the time it
takes in going between London and Edinburgh; yet
there were no sleeping-cars, and American ordinary
travelling ones are without exception the most unpleasant for purposes of slumber of any conceivable.
Should the wearied trayeller, notwithstanding the
cramps and pains that attend the stowing away of
legs and feet ill the confined space obtainable on the
two seats which form a single bench, succeed in getting
to sleep, he is pretty certain to be awoke ere long by
some garrulous native, and as each carriage holds
thlirty-six passengers, he has small chance of getting
a nap.
Their regulations also with regard to baggage are
to a sportsman inconvenient to a degree.   Portmanteaus containing wearing apparel are checked
and much trouble doubtless saved; but gun-cases,
fishing-rods, cartridge-box, and  fishing-basket, are
religiously tabooed; and as there are no porters, I had
to stagger from place to place with my accumulated
load of woes occasionally increased by a small portmanteau for immediate necessity, a bundle of wraps,
and an odd book or paper.
My gun-cases were particular objects of suspicion,
and each guard had a peculiar theory of his own in
9.26 
!
EXTRA BAGGA E. 
connection with them. Though withlin the margin of
the recognised weight for luggage, none of them
would allow them to be registered with my portmanteaus, and frequently would not permit them to be
taken in the cars. Often I had to carry them to the
luggage-van, where they were  charged extra for.
The rods, cartridge-box, and basket,.were generally
allowed in the Pulmans; but I always had to carry
them about myself, which when changes were
numerous, loose parcels many, and time limited, was
excessively unpleasant. ThIe railway officials were
always civil and wished to be obliging, but they have
their crotchets, and this crusade against the very
ordinary baggage of an English gentleman, namely,
his guns and rods, seems one of their hobbies.
I found that several English words in America had
rather' peculiar significations.   Sportsman, for instance, means "blackleg;" shooting, they call huntilg; and "democrat" is the term selected for their
particular cognomen by the party who represent the
Conservative interests of the country.
227 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
CHAPTER X.
Lathrop-Merced-American politicians-Tuolumne Grove-The Yo Semite Valley-Garrote-Mammoth Grove of "Big Trees," Calaveras
County-South Park Grove of "Big Trees "-Lake Tahoe-Fishing
on Tahoe-Carson-Night ride on a "cow-catcher "-Visit to a silver
mine- Gold- Earthquakes -Virginia City -Land of Mormon Funeral of George A. Smith-The Tabernacle-A Mormon sermon
-Sulphur Springs-The trowel-bayonet-The Great Salt Lake Jackass rabbits.
AT Lathrop we halted for dinner, and here I parted
with my friends, Mr. and Mrs. G., who continued
their journey to San Francisco. The next passengertrain for Merced did nriot go for five hours, and I was,
after they left, somewhat disconsolately contemplating
a large grizzly bear confined on the platform in a
cage, and anatomically considering the best place for
driving in a bullet if ever I got a shot at one,-a
favourite habit of mine when examining captive wild
beasts,-when I heard the whistle of a goods train,
and finding that I could go by it at once if I liked,
and save a long delay, I jumped on board and
started.
Our track lay through a perfectly flat stubblecovered plain, and though it was interesting to know
that much of the land we were passing over, though
a common prairie and covered with shaparall and
scrub not six years ago, was now yielding from fifty
228 
MERGED.       229~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
to a hundred bushels of grain an acre, the monotony
became unbearable, and I was heartily glad when the
journey ended.  These great plains are horribly irlksome. In England a man can amuse himself for
hours-at any rate, I can —by selecting the places in
a fence we are coming at, that, out hunting, I should
ride for, and looking as the train passes to! see
whether my judgment was sound, or if I should have
got a "cropper."  Here the land was flat as a pancake, not a fence or tree to be seen, or even a bird,
to break the never-ending stagnation of sameness
Merced is a town of but little over two years'
growth.   It has a first-class hotel, "El Capitan,"
which is four stories high, and can accommodate two
hundred visitors; and a handsome Court House,
which would be an ornament to a town ten times its
size and importance. From Merced the tourist starts
by coach for Yo-Semite.
The rivalry that exists between the different
companies renders a decision as to the route to be
taken somewhat baffling, each tout swearing that the
other's road is uninteresting or wrong, and that the
unavailing regret of a lifetime will follow its selection. Being hard up for amusement to kill time,
I made no choice until the different stages were
actually about to start, and Was considerably entertained by the skirmishes which continually took
place at intervals during the day, between the rival
agents to secure my dollars.
In the evening I was fortunate enough to hear a
couple of republican members of Congress, who
were what is usually termed "stumping the
229
MERCED. 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
country," give vent to their pent-up patriotism by a
violent attack on another body of political opponents
termed "independents." The speeches took place
opposite the hotel, and though the audience chiefly
consisted of people belonging to the Democrat persuasion, they listened to the address of their antagonists with attention and forbearance, and gave
them a far more liberal hearing, than a Radical
audience at home would ever dream of giving Conservatives similarly situated.
A gentleman, called Bidwell, candidate for the
post of Governor, was the chief object of their vituperation; and the fact of his owning a farm of some
fifty thousand acres, which was all highly cultivated,
and had been rniade so entirely by his own energy
and capital, seemed their principal grievance and
cause'of complaint against him.
In the course of the speeches, one of the honourable gentlemen described how, from the summit of a
neighbouring hill, he had beheld the vast plain
covered with standing crops, amid which was situated
this gentleman's country-house, and how his blood
boiled at such an act of monopoly. "Am I," he
ciied, "in England or America? Is this the castle of
some feudal baron-or the house of an American
citizen?  Am I under the Cross of St. George-or
the glorious'Stars  and  Stripes' of liberty and
freedom? Citizens, this land should have belonged
to you. Each hundred and sixty acres should have
supported a happy family," &c., &c. As the property
in question was by no means an unusually large one
for California, and as there are any amount'of millions
230 
AMERICAN POLITICIANS ON THE "STUMiP." 231
of acres of equally valuable land in the States, still
lying idle and uninhabited, I thought it a little
rough on Mr. BidwNell, that, after taking so much
trouble, an outsider should quietly distribute his property into one-hundred-and-sixty-acre lots; though
goodness knows such political reasoning is not uncommon, as one of our own shiining lights attempted
a line of policy not very dissimilar with regard to
other people's estates in Ireland.
-All staging in America commences abominably
early, and six o'clock one morning saw me start with
a four-horse team for the Yo-Semite via' Coulterville.
I was fortunate in having pleasant companions for
the trip, and during my stay in the valley we
generally did our sight-seeing togethler. Coulterville
is an almost deserted mining-town.  In its immediate
vicinity. the surface of the land is burrowed and
turned over in every direction, lasting monuments to
all ages of the race for gold, which rendered California
once so famous; but not till we reached Dudley's, a
comfortable little crib where we spent the night, did
the aspect of the country becomne a bit inviting, or
show the slightest approach to pretty scenery. Next
day the drive becamie more interesting.  For miles
we passed through the Foot Hills, covered with endless acres of forest; and gradually getting into the
Sierra Nevadas, beheld the magnificent timber for
which this part of the world is so justly celebrated.
All the trees were large, but occasionally we mnet
some veritable giants among the sugar-pines, which
ran frequently up to two hundred feet in height, often
having a diameter of as much as nine'feet at their 
2THE TWO AMERICAS.
base. Great, however, as these trees undoubtedly
were, the Tuolumne grove of "big trees" (Sequoia
gigantea), which we drove through in the afternoon,
quite surpassed them. The stump of one, partly
burned out, wvas over twenty feet in diameter, and
many of the others were but little inferior to it in
size.  MIost of them ran to a height of from two
hundred to two hundred and fifty feet, and tl-heir huge
stature and bulk certainly produced an effect on all of
us of more astonishment and wonder than any trees
had ever done before. One of our party, an American
colonel, who had lost an arm during their late civil
war, was justly indignant at the manner in which
many of the trees were disfigured by idiots hacking
their names on the bark.  All through the Yo-Semite
I afterwards found this to be the prevailing custom,
and though I thought our own people were the
greatest snobs in existence for cutting, hacking, and
disfiguring trees, churches, and buildings of all sorts,
I am glad to be able to add as a rider, to gratify my
national conceit, that in this most unpleasant family
failing our Yankee cousins lick us hollow.
We  passed through some exquisite morsels  of
scenery, and at last reached the crowning point of all
that is enchanting —the great valley of the Yo-Semite
itself.  Words are quite inadequate to do it justice,
or convey to the reader anything of an idea of this
mnarvel]ously beautiful spot. I not only never saw,
but cannot even conceive anything more soul-inspiring or grand. -What so many skilled writers
have failed in attempting to describe, I shall not
venture on; for I never read an account yet that
232 
THE YO-SEMi TE VALLEY.
brought the picture to my mind's eye that I now saw
before me.
The road into the valley was just sufficiently wide
to allow our leaders room to move along, but nothing
could have passed us on the way. In some places the
grade was exceedingly steep; the corners were irvariably as sharp as they could possibly be made with
the slightest regard to safety, and, the whole way
down, the smallest move off the road would have
entailed certain destruction for all of us. I occupied
the box-seat, and was delighted with the manner our
driver (the "Buffalo" he was called, and I do not
know his real name) handled his team of five horses,
the three leaders being harnessed abreast. With the
brake hard on, we went at first a fair trot all the way.
Over such ground a man should have a nerve of iron,
a hand of steel, and the eye of a hawk, and my friend
"the Buffalo" seemed to possess all of them.  As I
have observed before, there are no "whips" in the
world that can touch the Californians-I do not mean
to say that there are not a few "muffs' among them;
but the general lot are marvels, and if you sit by the
side of a good man on visiting the Yo-Semnite for the
first time, I do not think ages will ever efface your
enjoyment of the drive.
There is little to choose in the matter of hotels.
They are not bad, but, considering the ler)ngth of
time the valley has been declared a " national park,"
none of them are as good as they ought to be. Sminith's
Cosmopolitan Saloon and Bath-house is the only
establishment among them that shows any of the
enterprise and improvement that the Americans as a
233 
THE TWO AMIERICAS.
rule are famous for.  If, immediately after your hot
and dusty drive, Mr. Smith makes hirmself for the
thirsty traveller one of his celebrated iced claret
punches, a very happy termination to the day's
journey will have been satisfactorily arrived at, as he
is certainly one of the most clever manipulators of
liquor in the States.  Apropos of drinks, much as the
Californians praise their wine to strangers, I o served
they studiously refrained from  drinking it themselves; and though San Franciscan bars are invariably crowded, I never heard any of the habitues ever
call for the beverage they so frequently vaunt as
equalling the wines of France or Spain.
Next morning we rode to the Nevada falls, 700
feet high and called by the Indians, Yo-wi-e; had
luncheon at Snow's hotel, and after a swim in a
deliciously cool little pond just above them, sent our
ponies round, and walked to the Vernal, or Pi-waack, which signifies a cataract of diamonds, and has
about 350 feet of clear descent.
Our next expedition was to Mirror Lake, on whose
surface during a clear still morning, the reflection of
the" South Dome," 4737 feet above the Merced river,
and the perpendicular face of smoothly cut granite on
the side towards Tenaza Canon, are as distinctly
visible as one's own countenance when looking at a
glass. The "Bridal Veil" fall, Po-ho-no, or Spirit of
the Evil Wind, 940 feet, was also done. This was
a very easy day's work, as, with the exception of a
slight scramble of a few hundred yards over rocks to
get to the immediate base of the Bridal Veil, both
places were visited by carriage.
234 
THE YO-SEMITE FALLEY.
Glacier Point and South Dome formed the next
tril). This, in my opinion, is the cream of the whole
lot of points of observation to which trails have been
cut, and strangers recommended to visit. By a winding zigzag path an altitude of over 4000 feet is
gradually attained.  As each grade in the road is
ascended, fresh beauties in the valley are brought to
view; cattle and horses become mnere specks; until
at last the grand old E1 Capitan- Tu-tock-a-mu-lalies almost beneath us, and on looking over a rock at
the summit, an apparently perpendicular wall shows
a sheer descent to the bottom, and startles the gazer
by its terrible abruptness and fearful depth. From
this point one not only gets an entire view of the
valley, absolutely looking down on the Yo-Semite
falls, themselves 2634 feet, but gains also an extended range of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, which
rise in serried peaks, pine-clad or snow-capped, far, far
away in the distance. Nothing can be more beautiful
or grander; and if time should be an object, and only
one day be devoted by the hurried traveller to see the
valley, he cannot do better than select Glacier Point
as the one thing to be visited.
In the Yo-Semite are several very beautiful trees
for cabinet purposes, and a German residing here
has manufactured many pieces of inlaid work formed
entirely from the woods found in the valley. The
Manzaneta (Arctostaphylos8 glauca), the Buck-eye
(.Esculus Paira), and the Laurel ( Ttrant/era Californica), all take a beautiful polish, and are much
sought after for veneering.
I killed a few dozen small trout with fly in the
I
235 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
Merced river. The fish run small, and the water is very
clear and much hacked in the immediate vicinity of
the hotel; but by riding about eight miles down the
river, tolerably fair sport can be obtained, and any
one possessed of ordinary skill will easily capture
friom three to six dozen.
My friend Mr. G., who is, however, a first-class
fisherman, constantly made much larger bags; but
ordinary anglers will easily manage the numbers I
have given them, though the hotel-keepers invariably
talk of their extraordinary shyness, and pretend that
the Indians alone are able to kill trout on the Merced.
Having exhausted the principal views of the YoSemite, though still wishing to linger, we tore ourselves away, and at the usual disagreeably early hour
started one morning for the Mammoth and South
Parl Grove of Sequoias in Calaveias County, a
three days' drive by stage from the valley. Our
intention was to have halted for the night at Chinese
Camnp, which, with any regard to equalising the
distance and comfort of next day's drive, would
undoubtedly have been our wisest plan; but at
Garrote we were seized upon by a predatory and
plausible inn-keeper, who by the bribe of a butterfly
to one man, and a swim to another, prevailed on the
whole party to halt there, and I was perforce obliged
to follow their example, though much against my
will. The butterfly was described as being rare and
beautiful; the bathing as refreshing as divine.  The
road, like all Californian ones, was dusty in the
extreme, and cleanliness being next to godliness,
only a good deal easier of attainment, I became
236 
CAI?ROTE.                237
somewhat reconciled to my fate, and cross-questioned
our plausible friend as to the locality of the stream
he had been describing.  HIow far off was it?  Oh,
quite close- not a quarter of a mile,-and he
would show us  the way.   Was  it deep?   Not
very, but we could wade in nicely. Away started
the Colonel and myself in the direction pointed out,
and at last, after a hot and tiresome walk, of at least
a mile and a half, came on the long-looked-for water.
It was a dirty little mud ditch, not four feet wide,
used for conveying water to some neighbouring
hydraulic and placer mines. Not two inches of
water ran over its slimy-looking bottom, and the
wading in could only be accomplished by wading
through two feet of soft mud.  The butterfly, I am
happy to say, was as great a sell as the bath; but I
will do the fellow justice by saying that his feeding
was good, his charges reasonable,  and his house
scrupulously clean.
Our next day's drive lay through a country
burrowed and excavated in every possible direction
by the seekers after gold.  Round Senora parties
were still busily engaged at this captivating species
of toil, and several mines were pointed out by our
driver which were yielding very heavy receipts
above their working expenditure.   Parts  of the
country were pretty, and particularly so near where
we crossed the Tuolumne river by a ferry kept by
an old Yorkshire man, who gave us several bunches
of fine grapes. At Murpheystown, a small village
entirely supported by a mining population, we
halted for the night, and a good plunge in the clear
237
GARROTE. 
THE TWO AMEBICAS.
blue water of an old workled-out and deserted mine
over a hundred feet deep, reconciled us to our
disappointment on the previous-day.
The elections were still being busily pushed, and
noisy politicians loudly proclaimed their individual
opinions, until gradually in the small hours of the
morning I went to sleep with the sounds of Republican, Independent, Democrat, and Dolly Varden,
rapidly chasing one another through my bewildered
brain, till Morpheus reigned triumphant, and temporary oblivion at last conquered all things. Next
morning we again started, but this day only sixteen
miles had to be accomplished, and a four hours' drive
-the horses were bad and the roads hilly-landed us
at the Mammoth Grove. In one of the narrowest
and worst parts of the road we suddenly came onl a
waggon load of "campers."  To pass abreast was
impossible, and I soon had an opportunity of judging
of one of the many resources of Californian travel.
The driver of the waggon, unhitching his team,
fastened them behind, and we, all getting out of our
coach, clapped on to the pole and quietly dragged
the obstructive conveyance over the almost precipitous bank, locked the wheels to prevent its
sliding, and passed above in safety.
The hotel kept by Messrs. De Briges and Sperry
at the " big trees" is comfortable and clean, and the
cuisine far superior to anything we met with in the
Yo-Semite. The approach to it passes between the
Two Sentinels, each over three hundred feet high;
the largest is twenty-three feet in diameter, and on the
right-hand side lies the celebrated Mammoth Grove.
238 
31AMMOTH GROVE OF "BIG TREES."
Description almost fails to give a person an adequate idea of the vastness and grandeur of these huge
vegetable monsters, and even aftelr viewing them, one
is obliged to measure, to get inside, to walk round
or crawl on the fallen ones, to gradually comprehend
their enormous structure. One of these trees which
has fallen is called the "Father of the Forest," and
must have been four hundred and fifty feet high,
and forty feet in diameter before it fell. Through a
hundred feet of the trunk, which is hollow, I rode
a moderate-sized horse without stooping my head.
In 1853 one of the largest trees, ninety-two feet in
circumference, and over three hundred feet high,
was cut down. Five men worked twenty-five days
in felling it, and as many as thirty-two dancers have
figured together on its stump.
Near. the stump lies a section of the trunk, twenty
five feet in diameter. And beyond lies the immense
trunk as it fell, measuring three hundred and two
feet from end to end. Upon this was constructed a
bar-room and a bowling alley, which stretching along
its upper surface for a distance of eighty-one feet,
afforded ample space for two alley-beds side by side.
I believe there are ninety-three of these sequoias in
the grove, not including those under twenty years'
growth, but out of the number there are ten, each
thirty feet in diameter; and over seventy, between
fifteen and thirty feet for the same measurement.
All the largest have names nailed upon them, and
"Starr King," three hundred and sixty-six feet high,
is, I believe, the biggest standing in the group.
Having dawdled for a couple of days among these
239 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
monsters, and varied the amusement by catching a
few trout in a small stream ("creek," they always
call them here) running within a couple of miles of
the house, we determined on visiting the South Park
Grove, six miles distant from our hotel.
Horses, guides, and luncheon being forthcoming,
we started off, and after an exceedingly pleasant ride
arrived at a likely-looking stream about a mile from
the grove, where, having my trout-rod with me and
a cast of flies, I soon managed to kill sufficient fish to
form an acceptable addition to our mid-day meal.
The South Park Grove is far away the finest of all
the groups of Sequoia yigantea yet discovered.  It
contains one thousand three hundred and eighty of
these trees, many of them of immense size. Into a
hollowed portion five of us rode our horses, which
had.plenty of room to turn without the slightest
inconvenience, and the guide declared he had seen
fifteen mounted people inside at the same time. A
tall, wiry-looking man has located himself in this
grove, and pre-empted the usual allowance of land
about it. He took us to his house, which is formed
in the hollow of a nobly-grown sequoia. It made
a first-rate chamber, affording plenty of space for
bed, table, and chair, and even allowed him room to
offer, during very severe weather, stabling and protection to his trusty steed. In this singular abode,
for eleven years, he had resided alone and happy.
No rent to pay, taxes to afflict, or wife to torment
him. He ate when hungry, and slept when tired;
fished during the summer, and hunted bear and
deer and did his trapping during winter, and was,
240 
SOUTHi PARK GROV E.
accordi,)g to his own  account, perfectly contented
with his lot. One of the chief charms of this grove at
present, independent of its vast size, is that everything
is in a perfect state of nature. The trees are undoubtedly much larger and better grown than any
of those at the Mammoth Grove, and are not spoiled
by having a lot of names; like so many signboards,
stuck upon them. They are less visited, and are consequently less disfigured by Tom, Dick, and Ilarry
hacking their uninteresting designations all over the
bark; and, as no hotel or bar-room is in the immediate vicinity, silence and nature reign supreme. Onil
the embers of an oak-bark fire I cooked our trout,
and a delightfiul afternoon was passed in wandering
quietly about this wonderful grove. The sugar-pines
(Pinus sa)ininai) seem  to attain more astonishing
proportions in the immediate vicinity of these "big
trees" than in any other locality.  Some of them
attain a height of two hundred and seventy feet, and
not unfrequently a diameter of from nine to eleven
and a half and twelve feet. Their proportions are,
to my mind, far more symmetrical than the sequoia;
and, notwithstanding the latter's enormous growth,
I was often puzzled to tell, while looking at them
together, which tree I admired most.
After leaving Calaveras our party broke up. Some
went east, and others west; and, tumbling across
another wandering baronet, we directed our steps
towards Virginia City, the great centre of all silver
mining; the modern Potosi in fact of North America.
Mr. G. had given me a letter of introduction to Messrs.
Mackay and Fair, the managers and part proprietors
R
241 
THE TWO AIMERICAS.
of the California and Virginia Consolidated Mines, at
the present moment the most wealthy and best paying
ill the world, and H., thinking the opportunity of
seeing tlhemrn under their auspices too good to be lost,
came with mne, though he was in a red-hot hurry to
get to Denver for the shooting.
The scenery from the train in the neighbourhood
of Cape Horn was undoubtedly grand, and as the
guide-books have it: "Timid ladies draw backl with
a shudder, one look into the awful chasm being sufficient to unsettle their nerves, and deprive them of
the wish to linger near the grandest scene on the
whole line of the transcontinental railroad."  Had I
not so very recently seen Yo-Semite, I might have
admired it more, but under the circumstances I was
rather glad when at 10 P.M. our train arrived at a
statipn called Truckee, where, at a second or third rate
kind of inn attached to the railway station, we were
obliged to pass the night.
Our drive next morning from Truckee to Lake
Tahoe, along the banks of thle River Truckee, was one
to be remembered.  A well-kept road followed the
river's bank througlh forest and meadow, forming a
kind of canion.   On  each side rose steep mnouintains, in some places showing extraordinary rock
formations, whose fantastic outlines and queer conformation added considerably to the general effect of all
around us. The river was clear as crystal and formed
a very beautiful piece of water, spoiled, however, for
trout fishing by the numberless saw-mills and milldams that are established along its banks; this part
qtf X~Ta~Ia&hxig t,y %Mffat,'Lwh~  eizm "At tf-+,
242 
LAKE TAHOE.             243
state, and Truckee City (almost every town of halfa-dozen streets, or even houses, in America is called
a city) the principal dep6t and chief market.
On our ioad we were pointed out the scene of a
recent coach disaster, in which a couple of people
were killed, and a few more badly injured. It seems
that in going down a steep incline with a high bank
on one side and a precipice on the other, the brake
had carried away.  The horses became unruly, and
finally the stage was pitched about sixty or eighty
feet down an almost precipitous declivity, killing and
wounding the people mrnentioned.  The horses were, I
believe, all killed, and on examining the place, my
only surprise was that the whole party had not suffered the same fate.
Our intention had been to cross Lake Tahoe at
once and go on to Virginia City, but while waiting
for the steam-boat which was to convey us across the
lake, H. became so enamoured of a beautiful dish of
trout, some of them rulining about fine pounds, that
he determined on staying to try his luck, a local
fisherman promising to provide the necessary equipment, and I was only too glad of the delay. Lake
Tahoe is really very beautiful. The water is singlularly clear. Even on coral banks in the Indian
Ocean, atolls rising from an almost unfathomable
depth nearly perpendicularly, and celebrated for
the extraordinary translucency of the blue water
that surrounds them, have I never seen to greater
depths. On a calms clear, bright day, when the
surface of the lake is unruffled, a white plate can
easily be discerned a hundred feet beneath its trianquil
R 2
243
LAKR, TAHOE 
TlE TWO AMERICAS.
waters. The counties of Eldorado and Placer in
California, and Washoe, Ormsby, and Douglas in
Nevada, share it between them. Its greatest depth
is 1700 feet, its length twenty-two miles, and width
about ten miles.
After a swim we repaired to the boat, where our
fisherman awaited us, and judge of our surprise when
the means of capture met our astonished gaze.  A
huge cod-line, armed with a hook large enough to
kill a shark, was the rude and unsportsmanlike implemenrt used for killing the speckled beauties, whose
good looks we had both so much admired.  No play
and no sport could possibly be obtained, as neck and
crop by main force the wretched fish is bundled into
the boat.  Of course fishing under such circumstances
was a "dead sell," and not having our own gear with
us, nothing could be done. Tile Tahoe hotel was
exceedingly comfortable, and I can haidly recommend
a pleasanter or more charming spot for any one
willing to linger a week amid delightful scenery,
with the certain knowledge of returning each day
after his wajderings to a good dinner; but sl-hould he
be an angler, let him remember to bring his own rod.
Our next day was somewhat eventful.  It was
polling day for California, and instead of being conveyed directly across the lake to meet the coach for
Carson, we were trotted round to accommodate the
different voters whose patriotism demanded their
presence at the poll.   The cruise was certainly
pleasant enough, and one could hardly fail to admire
the beu(ty,f atll around, but the delay nearly necessitated oni,;I)endi-ig thie night in Carson, an event,
244 
NIGHT RIDE ON A "COW-CATCHER."
under the peculiar circumstances of our being pressed
for time, devoutly to be dreaded. On arriving at the
pier, we were, as I expected, several hours late for the
train; and not even the driving of Hank Monk,
Mark Twain's " bete noir," served to do us any good.
Carson, the capital town of Nevada, seenmed a
bustling thriving spot. The shops appeared good
and the streets crowded, but there was nothing of any
particular interest to be seen or done, and we wanted
to get on. All the passenger trains for that day had
departed, and our only chance being that the manager
of the line would give us permission to travel up on
one of the freight trains during the night, we sent in
our cards and requested an interview. This gentleman was no exception to the rest of his countrymen
with whom I have had the pleasure of being brought
into contact; and being as kind and obliging as all
the educated Americans I have ever come across
invariably are to Englishmen who require a favour
and ask for it civilly, he readily gave the necessary
order, which enabled us to reach Virginia City without stopping.  At 10 P.M. our train started.  The
waggons were all quite full; the standing room on
the engine (already pretty well crowded  by  the
driver, stoker, and conductor) was hot and dirty; so
a good-natured clerk belonging to the company, who
came down to see us off, recommended our sitting just
over the cow-catcher in front of the engine.
I remember once seeing in' Punch' a cartoon which
represented a director somewhat similarly placed, with
the exception, that I think he had a glass of grog and
an arm-chair. I did not envy his position even then,
245 
THE TWO AIERICAS.
but little thought that circumstances over which I
bad no control would have ever led me to be situated
infinitely worse off.  Up  we both scrambled,  the
whistle screamed, and holding on tightly by a
stanchion, we dashed forward into darkness.  Our
billet had certainly the sensation of novelty to recommend it, and after confidence became restored by
getting over the first half-dozen miles in safety, we
lighted our pipes, and began somewhat to relish our
queer ride. As well as we could make out, thle line
seemed occasionally to run over ground somewhat
similar in places to Cape Horn on the Union Pacific.
Lights and fires at times glimmered in the valleys
many feet beneath us, and an occasional streak like
silver told us that we passed a stream. Going through
the tunnels produced an odd sensation. However, on
the whole we both enjoyed the trip, and in a few hours
our journey ended by the engine suddenly detaching
itself from its burden, and hialting at a" Round house"
about a mile from the city.
The conductor I imagine went with his freight, as
he did not take our fare and we never saw him again;
the stoker disappeared likewise, and the driver was
of an uncommunicative and slightly morose disposition, not given to answer questions.  "Where are we
to go? " asked H.  "The engine stays here," was his
laconic reply; and almost intimating by his silence
thlat we might go to the d —1 if it pleased us, he also
vanished from our view.
Our position was so ludicrous and absurd that we
both fairly screamed with laughter.   Alone on an
engine, in the dark, hampered with a lot of luggage,
246 
VIRGINIA CITY.             247
and not knowing where on earth we were, for a few
minutes we could only look at each other and roar.
There seemed every prospect of our spending the
night by the wayside, when fortunately we discovered
a couple of men smoking in the engine-house, who
were of a more friendly and amiable disposition than
the driver.  They allowed us to leave our baggage
in a place of safety, and telling us the town was about
a mile off, pointed out the way, and H. shouldering a
light portmanteau, we  again started in the dark.
Tripping over railway sleepers, barking our shins
against unseen obstacles, at last we reached the
town, a couple of as disreputable looking objects as
well could be imagined. The road between Lake
Tahoe and Carson is far and away the dirtiest in
the West, which is saying a very great deal; and
the blaqks gathered on the engine, lying over the
coating of dust picked up during our drive with
Hank Mionk, rendered us simply filthy. H. also
carried his portmanteau himself, a thing very few
free-born Americans ever dream of doing, and the
remarks that greeted us on passing through a somewhat disreputable portion of the town were, if not
complimentary, at least good-natured and amusing.
"Where are you poor beggars going to?" "Pretty
well played out I guess?" and "Have a drink?"
were the various comments of the sympathising
"innocents," who evidently took us for discharged
miners or workmen on the tramp. At last we succeeded in getting comfortably settled in an hotel,
and were glad enough to turn in after our adventurous but somewhat fatiguing journey.
247
VIRGINIA CITY. 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
Next day I presented my introduction to Messrs.
Mackay and Fair, who were exceedingly kind, and
sent one of their foremen to showv and explain the
workings of their mine.
Our first visit was to the robing-room, where, after
divesting ourselves of every stitch of clothing, wewere soon equipped in filll miner's costume, of shirt,
trowseis, thick stockings, boots, and an old hlat. Thus
apparelled we were conducted to the mouth of the
shaft, and holding tightly to an iron bar running
across the cage which held us, we rapidly descended
into the bowels of the earth. Fifteen hundred feet
were soon run down, and stepping out of the cage
we were introduced to Mr. Laimb, the leading foreman
of the gang of hands at present working, who giving
us each a lantern, conducted us round the various
workings, passages, and shafts; pointing out what he
deemed interesting, and explaining everything we
saw. The heat in places was intense, but ventilation effected by engines worked by compressed air
rendered it perfectly healthy. No noxious gases are
ever developed, and naked lights are carried freely
and without danger. In each shaft was placed a
barrel of iced water, from which the tired mniners
drank copiously, as, stripped to their trowsers and
pouring with sweat, they from time to tic repaired
to them for this grateful refreshment.
The quality of ore obtained in the various workings varied considerably, but some was of immense
value, and so thoroughly impregnated with gold
that even by the dull light of the miner's candle
we could see the yellow flecks that betokened the
218 
VISIT TO A SILVER MINE.
presence of the precious metal. In these places we
were literally surrounded by silver.  The ground we
trod on was silver, almost pure, and the sides of the
shaft and the roof were formed of the same substance.
A square, formed by cuttings some 200 feet long,
was almost entirely composed of this extraordinarily
valuable deposit, and according to the most reliable
authority the estimated value of what we ourselves
beheld was ~74,000,000 sterling.  The work on the
men is severe, but as none receive less than sixteen
shillings a day, and a foreman gets ~750 a year,
there is little dificulty in providing as many hands as
are required. As the ore is excavated from the mine
the vacant space is carefully shored up with timber,
and eventually a solid mass of wood replaces the
abstracted metal. It was singular to observe the
commencement of the "find" in the shafts.  As
regular as possible were the marks which betokened
the presence of the metal, which was preceded by dirt,
clay, and porphyry. The end of a worked-out shaft
always finished by showing silver, porphyry, clay, and
dirt, in as regular a succession as the strata through
which we entered. I was surprised at the extreme
dryness of the workings; hardly a drop of water was
to be found in any of them except what was used for
drinking purposes, and occasionally water had absolutely to be pumped on the timbers to prevent dry rot.
Such enormous excavations as are here perpetually
being carried on necessarily take proportionately
enormous  masses  of  timber  to  replace  them.
Hundreds of thousands of square feet of ore have to
be replaced by an equally great quantity of wood,
249 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
and whole forests are soon buried deep in the inmost
recesses of the earth, peradventure after the lapse of
many years to undergo a strange reconstitution, and
bother some scientific discoverer as to how on earth
such enormous masses of-whatever it may be got
together. The mere conveyance of these forests,
doomed to such premature burial, was in itself a
herculean labour, until the managers of the mine, at
the cost of about a quarter of a million of dollars,
built a water flume fifteen miles in length, which,
from the heavily-wooded summits of the Sierras
west and north-west from Huffaker, belonging to
the company, conveys at little expense and with
extraordinary rapidity all the timber they can
possibly require. The flume is constructed of planks
two inches thick, and built in the shape of the letter
V..To gain a unifoirm grade it was found necessary
to build it on trestle work and stringers from one end
to thte other, and this framework, which in some places
is forty-eight feet high, is substantial enough to support
a narrow-gauge railway, it being thoroughly braced
longitudinally and across. All the main supports,
which are five feet apart, are firmly set in mud sills;
the boxes rest in brackets placed four feet apart, and
these again rest upon substantial stringers.   Mr.
Fair described a trip he took by nailing a piece of
board at the end of one of the V-shaped boxes, and
being floated downil by the workmen.
A  strip of wood nailed across furnished a seat,
and being once started, away hlie flew at the rate of
twenty miles an hour for a commencement. The
average grade is sixteen inches to sixteen feet, but
250 
EARTHQUAKES.- ~   2-I
the sharpest fall is three in six, which is, however,
only for two hundred feet, and over this he flew at
such a pace that he could hardly gain breath. II.
and myself were both extremely anxious for a sail on
such queer waters, and begged hard for a ride. Mr.
Fair, however, declared the risk too great, that he
had only gone down as a matter of duty, and that
nothing would ever induce him to do so again. As the
workmen go down it almost every day, this was all
rubbish; however, he would not give us a mount, and
we were both a good deal disappointed at his raising
our curiosity without gratifying it.
At one of the richest deposits our guide begged
we would take a sample of the ore, and seizing a
pick, I set to work at the part being cleared out. It
was astonishing with what surprising ease the pick
detached large masses of metal, and selecting a small
piece strongly marked with gold, I took it away in
remembrance of our visit.   I never saw anything
more interesting than these extraordinary mines, and
we both felt quite bewildered at the enormous
amount of wealth we behleld all round us.
In connection with these mines, Mr. G. related a
singular fict which I fancy is not generally known,
but which must I imagine upset many a cherished
theory on the subject of earthquakes.
Wliile he was a resident in Virginia City, an
earthquake of unusual severity one day terrified all
its inhabitants.  Houses  shook, roofs fell in, and
friightened women  and children rushed into  the
streets thinking their last hour surely had arrived
After a few terrible shocks, the commotion subsided
251
EA R THQ UA KE, S. 
THE TWO AIMERRCAS.
and tranquillity again reigned in the shaken town.
Immediate apprehension for their own safety having
ceased, the cryinstantly became, "The miners!" Away
rushed mothers and children to the mouths of the
various  shafts  that  honeycombed  the  mountain.
Again terror, more intense than that caused by the
fear of personal safety, seized the mother and the
wife, and half dead with excitement, they reached the
pit's mouth. The miners, astonished, looked at them,
and could not make out what was the matter.  The
earthquake!  "Guess they had felt no earthquake.
What the thunder was up?" So indeed it was; and
fifteen hundred feet under ground not the slightest
movement of a shock, so severe on tfhe surface as to
cause the most intense alarm even among a population comparatively inured to such visitations, was
even felt.
Having been through all the workings, a task that
took nearly three hours in an atmosphere somewhat
resembling the hot room in a Turkish bath, we bid
adieu to our good-natured conductor, regretting that
our unscientific education had not enabled us better
to follow and comprehend the many descriptions he
so kindly tried to make us understand; and once
more getting on the cage we ascended to earth.
On our arrival we found a warm bath in readiness,
and a glass of excellent whisky-and-water soon made
nS fit to examine the next process in the working of
the metal.
Mr. John Mackay now kindly became our pilot,
and showed the first process, where the large lumps
of ore, having been brought up from the mine, are
252 
GOLD.                 253
crushed by what, not knowing its correct name in
machinery, I shall call a "mouth of iron."  These
iron jaws having broken in pieces the larger lumps,
they are passed under stanmpers, ponderous iron rods
shod with steel, which, rising and falling heavily with
unceasing regularity, soon  pulverise  the already
broken ore lying beneath their massive hammers.
Water passing through this latter machinery turns
the crushed metal into a kind of thick paste, which
then passes into large circular pans; where water,
quicksilver, and certain chemicals being added, the
whole is kept constantly in motion by iron rakes
radiating from the centre of the vat and revolving
rapidly round it. The quicksilver seizes on the gold
and silver, and finally settles in large flannel bags
placed in boxes separate from but near the bottom of
the val, and this amalgam is fit for the furnace.
Water carries off the superfluous. dirt, but as this is
often charged with precious metal, it is subjected to
a still furither examnination by being caused to pass
over coarse blankets Jlaid on a small wavy kind of bed,
which being charged with more quicksilver soon
grasps the minute particles which have escaped
seizure in the former process, and forming  more
amalgam  likewise becomes  fit for smelting.   The
amalgam being now all collected is placed in iron
retorts and subjected to the action of fire. The gold
and silver mass soon becomes liquid, the quicksilver
passing away in a vapour, which being caused to
pass through water, again consolidates itself and
becomes  available for further  use.   The molten
metal is- then cast into bricks which contain a certain
253
GOLD. 
THE TWO AMIERICAS.
amount of silver and a certain quantity of gold.  To
determine the accurate value of each is the next
process. A corner of each brick is chlipped off and
sent to the assayer, who, determining the exact value
of each metal in the brick it belongs to, registers the
same and has the correct value stamped on the huge
ingot, which is then fit for the market, and, I need
hardly observe, finds a ready sale.   The whole
process, even to a tyro lile myself, was exceedingly
curious; but to a man versed in maclinery, who
could understand the beauty of the powerful engines,
etc., he saw in play all around him, I can imagine it
to be still more interesting and instructive.
Virginia City is well worth a visit on its own
account, even without a trip to the mines.   Few
towns in the world are so lively, and a very few
years back the lively nature of its inhabitants
exhibited itself in constant shootings when  they
imagined things were getting slow. I was told by
an old resident before I went there that it was a
somewhat rapid place.   "If you are in luck," he
said, "you ought to get a man for breakfast;" which
expression, I  afterwards  learned, meant that an
account of a murder should be served up in the
morning paper with my mnatutinal meal. Every
other shop in the principal streets seemed to be a
drinking saloon, and in most of them were established
"hells" for the carrying on of the popular game of
"faro."  Drinking, gambling, and other unmentionable vices seem the chief occupation of the aboveground population. Underground I had seen theIn
hard at work, and now I could witness their ideas of
254 
H. AND THE MINERL.
enjoyment.  The two principal streets run parallel
to each other and are about half a mile long.  One
consists of shops, stores, gambling-houses, and drinking-bars, the latter greatly predominating; and the
other entirely of houses kept by Phrynes of various
and  manifold  nationalities.   Wages  being high,
everything was proportionately extravagant, and the
ordinary charge of the commnon street shoe-black
was a quarter-dollar (a shilling) for cleaning one's
boots.
I had expected to have seen people wearing the
proverbial red flannel that is supposed to designate
the son of toil in this particular industry, but it
was quite the reverse; "biled shirts," the western
American name of white onles, were the rage, and
H. and myself suffered severely by our contrast to
these wonderfully got-up gentry. Mr. F. had put
our names down as hon. members of the Washloe
Club, but never dreaming that there was more than
one club in such a place, we omitted to inquire its
name, thinking "the club" would be sufficient.  On
going there we missed our way, and H., addressing
a gentleman with flashy diamond studs in a very
much " bilcd shirt," asked him to be kind enough to
tell us the way to the club.  "The club!" he replied.
"What club?"  IH. was nonplussed, but managed,
Englishman-like, to stammner, "Oh-ah-why-don't
you know?  the club."   Our friend looked at us
both from top to toe with a perplexed expression of
countenance, evidently taking stock of our probable
social position. Neither of us had diamond studs or
a black coat. I wore a rather seedy hat. I think the
255 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
hat decided him, for with a spit of relief he answered,
"Guess you want the Miner's Club: straight down
two blocks and turn to your right." Il. looked
bewildered, but it was somewhat more than delicious
to see a member of "White's," the "Marlborough,"
and goodness knows how many of the best clubs in
London,  quietly pooh-poohed  for not wea ring a
"biled shirt," and when the possessor of the diamond
studs was out of hearing, we both laughed till our
sides ached.  Eventually we did arrive at the club,
and found it an exceedingly nice and comfortable one,
and every member in it quite willing to be kind and
obliging.
Before 1861 the State of Nevada, now the richest
mining country in the world, formed part of Utah;
and prior to that, in 1848, being a part of Alta
CalifQrnia,  it belonged  to  Mexico.   The whole
country is more or less covered with mines, good,
bad, or indifferent, and their names on the "Share
List" are legion. The Comstock lode is pretty well
known throughout the world; for the others, those
who care about such things know well enough where
to get detailed accounts, and those who do not would
not care to see them enumerated here.  With regard
to its wealth, I may state without exaggeration that
the streets of Tirginia City are paved with silver.
A curious statement, but nevertheless a true one, as
the metal used in laying down the roads has been
found on analysis to be composed of dirt which if
worked would return a very fair profit per ton.
At about two o'clock one morning I was aw-akened
by bugles, horns, whistles, and all kinds of music.
2 r5 6 
VIRGINIA CITY.
Wondering what new and peculiar phase of life in
America I was about to witness, I jumped out of bed,
and on throwing open my window needed no inter preter to explain the cause.  The whole town seemed
in a blaze.  Fire-engines shrieked, men shouted, and
women in scanty apparel rushed wildly about the
passages of the hotel.  I proceeded to rouse out; my
companion, and after a couple of bad shots at his
door, of which I forgot the number, discovered him
sleeping tranquilly through  all the turmoil.   On
getting into the street we found that a livery stable
about a block off had been entirely destroyed, and
that the Odd fellows' Hall, a handsome brickl edifice,
was now battling with the flames.   At one time
there was every prospect of Virginia City emulating
Chicago in its holocaust.  The houses are nearly all
built of.wood, and on their shingle roofs a perfect
hailstorm of fire was being rained down. Many
people packed up all their effects, and piling them
in the streets, quietly sat on them, waiting to see
how thlings would turn out; while others repaired to
the saloons, considerately opened for so festive an
occasion, and nerved themselves by a morning cocktail for the coming  struggle.   The fire brigade,
a volunteer one, did its duty well, and after a hard
fight the flames were got under and the excitement
subsided.
Ilaving exhausted the chief wonders, and visited
the commencement of a shaft Messrs. Mackay and
Fair intend running 4000 feet deep, we took our
departure, and after a tiresome delay at Reno, an unimportant little town, twenty-one miles from Virginia
S
257 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
City, we once more Ifound ourselves in a Palace
sleeping-car, and en routte to the East.
We had breakfast at Humbolt, a snmall station with
a scanty garden, in vwhich was a pond and a couple
of Mandarin ducks.  The country all around is barren
and arid.   Alkali incrustations render white the
surface of the ground, a)d sage-brush seems the only
vegetable produtce. On the platform lay a huge mass
of sulphur in a solid l1tmnp; it was a desolate place,
and we were glad to get on.
The Humbolt canon is curious; the river running
through it rather slimy and green.   We dined at
Battle Mountain; elevation 4508 feet.  Slight improvement in the  aspect of the country.   More
grazing land, and a few cattle were to be seen from
the train.  A  lot of clildren were in the car who
raced about from end to end, knocking over books
and incessantly disturbing one's papers. Occasionally
they varied the amusement by howling loudly, while
their mothers looked complacently on witl-hout endeavouring to stop them, evidently well pleased with
the healthy condition of the disagreeable little animals'
lungs. I certainly did pine for the ease and quiet
of an English first-class carriage, in which, thank
Heaven, such bores can be avoided.  We fed again at
Elko; elevation 5065 feet.  Badly divided time, only
a few hours having elapsed since the previous meal.
We passed the one thousand mile tree west fromr
Omaha, and at last arrived at the Mormon town of
Ogden, in the territory of Utah. HTere we had
breakfaist and parted company-H. going to Denver,
to shlloot in the North and South Parks;  while I
258 
FUNERAL OF AN APOSTLE.
continued my journey towards Salt Lake City, to
study Mormonism in its own headquarters.
I arrived there on Sunday September 5th, in time
to wetness the funeral solemnities of one of Brigham
Young's shining lights-Mr. George A. Smith.; his
First Councillor, Church historian, and President of
the Twelve Apostles.  This Apostle became identified
with the Mormon Church in its very infancy, and
participated in its travels and trials from New York
to Ohio, to Missouri, to Illinois, and finally to Utah.
Most people in Utah suspected him of having been
the willing instrument that Brigham used in compassing the massacre of the emnigrants at Mountain
Meadows; and had Mr. Smith lived another year, he
would in all probability have been indicted and tried
for that fearful crime.   The Tabernacle-a  huge
building, looking at a distance more like an enormous
inverted boat on a pedestal than anything else I can
think of —was crowded to suffocation.  Over ten
thousand people were  congregated within its walls,
and it would hlave been impossible to have had a
better opportunity for inspecting these strange beiiigs.
I was chiefly struck by the extreme ugliness of the
greater portion of their women, and by the shocking
manner in which thley were dressed.  I never saw
such a lot of frights, and can quite understand their
jumping at polygamy, as a last chance of becoming
entitled to even the firactional part of a husband,
after failing to secure an entire one in the various
parts of tlhe world they may have come from.  The
plainest women find no difficulty in getting married
Becomnling servants immediately after the ceremony,
s2
259 
THE TWTO AMERICAS.
in a country whlere domestic labour is almost im possible to be procured, unprepossessing as they
generally are, they represent a certain amount of
value to their owners; and as they are systematically
worked, they soon a good deal more  than pay for
their keep.  The men looked thick and brutish, and
in no part of the world have I seen so unprepossessing
a set of whites, or such a vast quantity of ugly men
and women congregated together, as were assembled
here to assist in burying their departed ApostleMr. Smith.
WhVile Brighlam Young, and some of the Apostles
were eulogisinrig the departed saint, whom they endowed with every earthly virtue, I had time to
examine the interior of the building.  It was tastefully decorated with flowers, and round the gallery
were yarious inscriptions, such as, "Brigham, our
leader and friend'; "We thank Thee, 0 God, for a
Prophet "; "Utah's best crop-children."  In the
afternoon I again attended service in the Tabernacle,
and this time heard a sermon on secular matters.
The service  was  tedious  and  dragged out  and
lengthlened to a considerable extent by the administration to thie entire congregation of the sacrament.
Several loaves of bread having been broken in small
firagm-ents were handed round to the people, who
never left their pews; and shortly after large mugs
of water followed.  The organ was a fine one, and
the music and singing fairly good.   One of the
"Twelve Apostles" addressed tile saints (thley all
call themselves saints in Utah) and took them  to
task roundly on their various short-comings.  He
260 
A HOrJroON SERMlONl.
complained that they wvere paying too muchl attention
to the laying up of wealth, while at the same time
they begrudged the Church her accustomed share;
that they were adopting the vices and bad habits of the
Gentiles who had thrust themselves in among them,
and that while walking in the streets he had absolutely seen saints smoking pipes and cigars, without
even having the grace to seem ashamed of such a
thing,.  He believed some of them drank; but at any
rate they would never prosper if they smoked or
took snuff.  The women caught it next.  Thley were
going to the bad also.  Many of them used tea and
coffee, and perhaps sugar.   They were departing
from the simplicity of that mode of life laid down as
best by their teachers, and he could hardly tell to
what depravities such behaviour might not lead.
He gave tongue for about half an hour, and talked
more bosh during that space of time than any man I
ever heard before or since.
I put up at a Mormon  hotel, "The Townsend
Hlouse,"  and  can  strongly recommend  it.  The
proprietor, a Mormnon, was extremely obliging, and
does all in his power to make his guests comfortable.
HIe took me to call on Brigham Young, and drove
me about the city, showing and explaining the
various objects of interest.  Just about this time the
excitement caused by the trial of Lee for his participation in the Mountain Meadow massacre was still
going on; and many of the atrocities perpetrated by
the Mormons were constantly being published in the
daily papers. There is not the slightest doubt but
that the leaders of the Mormon Church encouraged
261 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
assassination in the most methodical and wholesale
manner; the confessions of some of their own
disciples who were actually engaged in these outrages showed that such atrocities actually did occur;
and to me it seems strange that the Government of
the country did not, and do not; take soirme active
steps in avenging the victims.
Putting aside the wickledness and absurdity of the
religion, and the unscrupulous villainy of the sacerdotal power, which in Mormonism is omnipotent, there
is much to be admired in the industrious, frugal, and
simple customs of the people.  Finding a desert,
they converted it into a garden, and Salt Lake City
is laid out with the strictest regard to both health
and convenience. Every street is about eighty yards
wide, and has broad side walks well sheltered by
locuist.or other ornamental trees; streams of clear
running water border each side, and every house is
surrounded by a garden laden with fruit-trees. The
town is built on a gentle slope, behind it are the lofty
ranges of the Wahsatch Mountains, and I doubt if it
be possible to find any town in the States better
planned for either comfort or scenic effect.
Gradually handsome buildings are beginning  to
be constructed.  The  Telmple, when finished, will
certainly be an attractive and ornamental structure,
its very unusual style of architecture perhaps constitutinig  its  principal  charm.   ThIe  Prophet's
favourite wife, Amelia, has had a handsome house
just finished for her particular benefit; and wealthy
Mormons in various parts of the town are building
residences that would be considered fine anywhere.
2G2 
THE TROWEL BAYONET.
Fresh discoveries of mineral wealth are almost daily
taking place;  and  lwhen  confidence, so  entirely
destroyed by that gigantic swindle  the "Emma
3iline," again returns, and once more Gentile capital
becomes invested in the country, I expect to see not
only Salt Lakle become a wealthy and prosperous
town, but the Mormon faith rapidly become shaken,
and the power of their Prophet and his apostles
sensibly decline.
Not far from the town are two sulphur springs,
over one of which has been built a bath-house.  The
water is kept at a temperature of 90~, and besides
hip-baths they have constructed a very fair plunge
one. A mile farther another stream of stronglyimpregnated sulphur water, with about 130~ of heat,
rushes from beneath a solid rock.  The odour, which
is extremely unpleasant, can be detected at least
half a mile off, and the stonies and herbage growing
near its banks are both tinted with a brilliant
emerald green.
A  small garrison of United States troops are
quartered at Camp Douglas, which is built commanding the town and about two miles from it.
Mr. A., the brother of an old sclhoolfellow, living at
the hotel I was staying at, drove me over, and I metwith every kindness and attention from the officers.
I saw here, for the first time, the new American:
bayonet, "Rice's trowel bayonet with the Chillingworth attachment,"* and cannot speak too highly of
its admirable qualities.  It is simply a sharp-pointed
strongly-built trowel, of eleven inches in length,
* See Appendix B.
263 
THE TWO AMIERICAS.
exclusive of handle, and three and a half inches
broad-quite sufficiently formidable as a weapon of
offence; while for throwing up cover rapidly for
infantry troops exposed to an  enemy's fire it is
simply, as a tool, unparalleled.   With it a man
can  chop wood, build  a wall, bake a cake, and
stab or cut down his enemy. I see no reason why,
without impairing its efficiency, one side should not
be partially filed into a saw.  An officer, who had
seen troops drilled to its use, informed me that in
less than ten minutes he saw a company completely shelter themselves (on rather hard ground
into the bargain) from rnusketry.   Our "sheltertrench drill," with its necessary accompaniment of
picks and shovels, is as childish and' grotesque in
comparison to the handy implement used  by the
Americans, as the Indian bow in modern warfare
would  be  to  the Henry - MAlartini  breecliloader.
Another exceedingly usefiul invention employed by
them is the stacking "swivel," i.e. a small hookswivel placed on the upper band of the rifle, which
weighs almost nothing, and enables the men to stack
their arms regardless of any inequality of ground.
Were it the slightest use to urge our War Department to adopt any improvement not emanating from
themselves, I could not advocate too stron,,gly the
adoption of both these plans in our own service.
Clintons station and hotel on the Great Salt Lake
is about a three hours' ride from the town.  The
country on each side of the line leading to it is flat,
.and in some parts miarshy.  A  few wet splashes,
which we passed through just before first coasting
264 
THE GREAT SALT LAKE.
the lake, were covered with wild duck; I also saw a
few snipe, and should fancy the shooting there in
winter would be pretty good.  The mosquitos on
this part of the line were fierce and bloodthirsty as
tigers, and quite took possession of the cars, driving
most of us who were not extra thick-skinned to talke
refuge on the platform, where the current of air
prevented them effecting a lodgment. After passing
Black Rock we stopped at Clintons, nicely situated on
the Lake, and looking directly on Church and Antelope islands. On the former Brigham is accused of
having stowed away the plunder so fearfully obtained
by the massacre at Mountain Meadows.   A  small
steamboat for the use of excursionists lay at a pier
near the hotel, and a few bathing boxes were erected
for the use of visitors.
I was somewhat curious to test the buoyancy of
these waters, and shortly after arriving was floating
about on their surface.   The  sensation  of such
extreme buoyancy is certainly curious, and for an
indifferent swimmer  I daresay pleasant.   I could
stand uprilght without motion.  Lying on my back
I could keep both feet entirely out of the water, with
my arms also at the same time extended upwards
to their full stretch. In breast swimming I could
keep both legs above water from the knee joints,
merely paddling with my hands; in fact, in any
position it was difficult to sink. Swimming a distance
was, however, difficult and tedious, as when on my
breast the extraordinary buoyancy of the Water had
a tendency to throw the feet and legs right up in the
air, which naturally forced the head forward and
265 
THB TWO AMERTCAS.
kept an unpleasant strain on the neckl to secure its
elevation.  Diving was next to impossible, and the
slighte-t drop of water getting into one's eyes caused
extreme pain.  The day was fine and the lake as
smooth as glass, arind I pottered about very pleasantly
for over an hour, floating  and paddling on its
surface experimcntalising with its peculiarly buoyant
properties, when in one of my efforts  I got and
swallowed a mouthfill of water.   Great goodness!
what a mouthful it was. The most nauseous medicine
I ever tasted was nectar to it, added to -which, it
possessed a burning acrid power that almost took the
skin off my mouth. I tried no more tricks, and feel
convinced that the strongest swimmer in the world,
even the famed Captain Webb, would be unable to
live beyond thirty minutes in rough weatlher on Salt
Lake.  Three such mouthfuls as I swallowed would
kill a water-buffalo "let alone" a man.
Round the lake, and extending for many miles on
each side of the long flat valley in which it is situated,
runs a curious but distinctly marked water line on the
hills, a hundred feet or so above the water's present
level; and at some distant and long past period, Salt
Lake must have covered an extent of ground at least
double its present area.
Among  the  sage-bruslh growing  on  the  large
alkali plains in the vicinity of Salt Lake, there are
at certain seasons innumerable hares, or as people
persist in calling them here, "jackass rabbits." They
really are the true prairie hare (Lepus Camnpestris,
Bachman), and not the jackass rabbit (Lepus callotis,
Yayler), who is not to be found in either Utah or
266 
-~ ~ ~ SL   AK   IY                    6
California; but as every description of hare or rabbit,
with the exception of the "cotton tail," is called
"jackass," I suppose we must let it pass and adopt the
national cognomen. A couple of Mormon gentlemen, hearing I was anxious to get a day at thlem, very
kindly drove me out some ten miles across the plains,
and passing the River Jordan, a muddy sluggish
stream that runs into Salt Lake, we shortly afterwards commenced operations. Although not the
best season of the year, immense numbers of them
were scattered through the sage-brush, the only plant
growing on these alkali bottoms. We found them
rather wild, still they afforded good sport, and as the
cover was in places somewhat thick, it required
tolerably quick shooting to knock them over.
Judge H., to whom I had an introduction, and
who hadl been residing for some years among the
Mormons, explained many of their eccentricities, and
told me many stories about these extraordinary
people; and though tempted to give some of the
benefits of his experience along with my own impressions; and "let out" on them, I will be merciful to
my readers and spare them a dissertation on such a
well-worn sublject as Mormonism, contenting myself
with an adoption of Bret Harte's remarks concerning the "long-tailed gentry," to wvhom in some things
they are very similar, viz." ways that are dark and
tricks that are vain."
Salt Lakle City could hardly be visited at a more
favourable time of the year for witnessilng it under
its brightest garb than during the month of September. The fruit-trees were laden with peaches, apples,
267
SALT LAKE CITY. 
TTHE TWO AMIERICAS.
plums, and pears. Tile gardens were brilliant with
flowers of many  colours.  Trees with their spread ing branches threw a cool arnd grateful shade on
all the side walks.   Sparkling water rippled by
their sides. A delicious friagrance perfumed the air,
and whatever one may think of the Mormons, it
is impossible to go away otherwise than charmed
with their capital town. Utah, like Nevada, Cali fornia, and many of the Western States, abounds in
silver. For some inexplicable reason the wise people
of Salt Lake City got it into their heads that I was a
capitalist, and I was constantly beset with offers of
mines for a mere song, that only required some
of my superfluous wealth to develop into second
editions of the Comstock Lode.
It is quite impossible for any man with an ordinary
amount of brains to shut his eyes to the indisputable
fact, that from the immense quantities of silver being
poured into the market, a very serious and important
change must shortly take place in this great circulating medium, and one which, coming with such
extraordinary celerity as it really is doing, is certain
most seriously to affect the whole world.
Financiers and legislators cannot look to this
matter too soon; and accepting for a solution of the
difficulty the argument of- short-sighted or wilfully
blind people, who assume  that  the adoption  by
America and other countries of specie payments will
be sufficient to absorb the surplus, will only lead
them more and more astray.
Up to a very recent period, Mexico was the only
silver producing country of any importance in the
268 
SILVER AS A CIRCULATING MEDIUi]I.
world, and the greater portion of the bullion even
sent from there came from but one mine-that of
Potosi. Since those days, silver has been discovered
in all directions, and were the country in a fit state
to warrant the introduction of foreign capital, most
of these mines could be made to pay.
The mines of Utah are many of them returning a
high dividend on the very small capital expended in
their primary working, and fresh deposits of ore are
being discovered daily by people without any capital
at all, and are consequently untouched. The Emma
Mine is strongly suspected by the knowing ones at
Salt Lalke of having a rich" Bonanza" but a very
few hundred feet below the distance worked by its
present shareholders.
On the mines in Nevada it is impossible to touch
without going into a matter of statistics and figures
too wearisome for a short gossiping book of travels,
but let it be borne in mind that, in only one mine
out of the several hundred that exist in a small
portion of Nevada, I saw myself ore which, still
unraised, represented seventy-four millions of pounds
sterling.
It has only been very recently that people have
systematically looked for silver at all.  Up to this
the rag,e has merely been for gold.  Experienced and
resolute men are now prospecting in all kinds of wild
and out of the way places for metals that a fewv
years ago were rarely searched for by men educated
to their task.  Silver, more or less, exists in all
the Western States; even Alaska contains it; but
were not anothller mine to be discovered, those that
269 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
exist at present are more than sufficient to halve
the present market value of silver, if they were only
properly worked.
In San Francisco the vulgar but successful speculator in mines has his dinner menu engraved on a
silver plate, which each guest puts in his pocket and
takes awa.y; but if it even became the fashion to
pockcet the spoons, the flow of silver is too incessant
and steady to feel the drain.
I have studied this subject at far greater length
than it is necessary to enter upon here, and feel
convinced that the depreciation of the metal, owing
to the immense quantities produced, will soon become
so decided that statesmen will be compelled to take
the matter very seriously up, and the sooner they
take their task in hand the better.
270 
CACHE VALLEY.
CHAPTER XI.
Caheh Valley-Chicken shooting-A bear hunt-A few words concern ing bears-Ogden-Laramie City-Fort Sanders-A scout on the
Rocky Mountains-American tents-Rarefaction of the air-A long
shot-Sage-hens-Beaver-dams-My first elk-Lost on the mountains
-Our game bag Murders by the "Noble savage"-A few words
about Indians-The Pi-Utes superstition-Chiefs-Squaws- IReligion
-Cards-Sioux or Dakotas Preparation for war-The Black Hills The beginning of the end-President Grant-North Platte-Buffalo The Loup Valley-Anecdotes of the frontier-Fort Hartsuff-Prairie
fires-Prairie dogs-Tame elk-A close shave-Another elk hunt Buckshbpt-A large band of elk-Not dead yet-WVolves-A complete
spill.
FROM.t Salt Lake City, I travelled about one hundred
miles north throulgh the land of the Mormon, to the
small town of Franklin in the territory of Idaho,
where I heard good prairie chicken shooting was to
be obtained.  Mr. A. came with me, and we got confortable quarters at Keeney's hotel.  Enl route, we
joined forces with another gentleman who was bound
on the same errand, and during our stay in Idaho
we hlad a very pleasant time.
The greater portion of the road to Franklin lay
through Cache Valley, one of the most fertile and
best-cultivated pieces of land in the territory. Mormon
towns, designed on plans similar to that of Salt Lake
City, lay like so many gardens nestled at the foot of
2,fl 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
the hills; Corinne, situated near the west bank of
Bear River, being the most important. A large salt
sloiugh of several miles in width was passed just before
getting there, and a large river crossed by a substantial looking bridge, under which floated a solitary
pelican quite undismayed at the strange racket above
him and a pistol shot with which he was saluted from
one of the cars.
This town does a considerable freighting trade with
forntana and other Northern sections, but for any one
visiting the Yellow-stone I should recommend their
going straight through  to the  end of the Utah
Northern line, then taking coach for Virginia City
lvlontana, and to fit out and make all other necessary
arrangements from there.  Logan is anotl-her Mormon
town of some importance on this line.  It has a brass
and iron foundry, saw and planing mills, a fine new
temple, and is, to use a common expression out here,
"quite a place."
In comining over the divide from Bear River  to
Logan River a fine view is to be obtained.  To the
southward,  Corinne, Brigham  City,  Call's  Fort,
Iloneyvillc, Deweyville, and Hampton lay before
us; while to the nortihward some half-dozen treeembowered towns could be taken in at the same
glance.
The prairie chlicklen shooting turned out quite as
good as it had been represented, and my companions
knowing, the habits of the bird, wfe had little difficulty
in miaking large bags each day we went out.  During
the mornings and evenings they were scattered about
the prairie and in the neighlbouring grain fields, but
272 
CHICKEN-SIO 0 TING.
during the hle.t of the day they all crowded for shelter
to the small willow-shladed streamrs, where there was
no difficulty in finding, themn, and wheire we got shlots
at times quite as fast as one could in any "hot
corner" of a well-preserved covert ill Elg) land.
ThIeir flig!it is likle our own grouse, to which bird
they bear a strong family'resemblnnce, and indeed to
which class they belong.  As every species of ha]e
in the WTest is called a "jackass rabbit," so is every
kind of grouse called a prairie chl-icken.  Blue grouse,
sage hens, pin-tailed grouse, and willow grouse are
all chicklens; and these birds about- Franklin, tl-hough
called clhickens on all sides, are iu reality willow
grouse (Layoptus  albus,  Aztdit)bon).   The shooting
was as good as it could be; we soon fired away all
our cartridges, and were medlitating a flight, when
one evaning news was brought to the hotel that a
bear had been tracked soine distance up the hills by
a noted Alormon hunter, who, singularly enough, was
christened Orson Broadbent.
MIr. Broadbent was quite a local celebrity from his
successes as a bear hunter, and, offering next morning
to pioneer us to the spot, we made the necessary
arrangements for starting. The following account of
the hunt I afterwards found published in the editorial
correspondence of the'Ogden Freeman,' and give it
in ezxtenso, as a sample of American journalism.  The
story chiefly existed in the editor's imagination, who
happenedl to be staying at Franklin at the time, the
only correct part of his statement being that we
really did kill the bear. Orson Broadbent, getting
the circass, sold it, and it was eaten quite as rapidly
T
...
27.'Dv 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
iS described.   My friend,Ir. A. has been given
"brevet rank." and the skin fell to me.
TWO ENGLISH LORDS ON A BEAR HUNT-HOW THEY BAY THE GRIZZT,IES
-BEASTS MORE FEROCIOUS THAN THE BENGAL TIGER-A FAMILY
D)RIVEN OUT OF THE COUNTRY BY THEM.
Soda Springs, Idaho, Sept. 18,'75.
THE CHASE.
Sir Rose Price, an English Baronet, and Sir B. Argall, another
English nobleman, who has invested largely in Utah mines, came to
Franklin, ana enjoyed the sport of a grizzly bear hunt while we were
there, a few days ago. A noted bear hunter, Mr. Orson Broadbent, had
discovered that one of these mountain terrors was feeding in Birch
Creek Canyon, about four miles from town, and notified the two
British Lords that he would pilot them to the spot if they thought
they had lost any bears. The gentlemen accepted the proposition,
were furnished by their landlord, J. W. Keeney, with a most suitable
covered carriage, drawn by a handsome span of blood bays, driven by
John C. Barrow, familiarly known as "Rambling Jack;" and after a
cautious journey of three hours' duration, the great uncouth hunterBroadbent-accompanied by Jas. H. Handy, announced that they were
in the vicinity of the game, when every weapon was made ready, the
dogs brought to presence, and action prepared for. It was soon known
that his majesty, Bruin, watching the party from his closely ensconced
point of observation in a thicket of birch willows, wild rose bushes,
service and hawthorn brush, and when Broadbent entered the lair, a
rush, accompanied by a hoarse growl, made chills creep over the nerves
of some of the party, but only gave confidence to Sir Rose Price, who
had tried and proven his famous breechloader among the jungles of
Patagonia and Central Africa; nor was Sir Argall at all disconcerted,
although he was a neophyte in the chase of such monsters. And now
that both the Lords had an open field and a fair fight, at the crack of
their trusty weapons the grizzly dropped, rolled,reared, and pitched with
headlong ferocity, and unearthly yell after Sir Rose, but when within ten
,feet of the African hunter, a well-directed shot from Argall gave him
another tumble; and then the two powerful dogs took part in the
sport. One giant canine, best described as a cross between a bull
and a mastiff, was reduced to jelly by a single blow of the left paw,
while his mate was torn half in two by a grab with the right. Then
,did bruin renew the charge against Sir Rose Price, and before he could
4"
274 
A BEAR HUNT.            275
recover his wits he too lay sprawling under the bear. All the
spectators were horror-stricken and stood aghast, as they supposed the
brave man was so completely within the jaws of death, that rescue
would be an impossibility, though all were in a moment agreeably
surprised when they saw the long knife, dripping with hot blood,
withdrawn from the heart of the brute, and all gave a prolonged cheer
as the bear rolled over, dead, and Sir Rose leaped to his feet unharmed.
The fine specimen of game was taken to Franklin, and after being
dressed for the butcher's stall, weighed eight hundred and seventy-five
pounds, and yet he was only three years of age. The robe was placed in
the hands of Broadbent to be tanned for the Lords.  The game was put
on sale at the market of H. T. Smith, who sent one quarter to the
Beardsley House, Ogden, and a choice piece to THIE OGDEN  FREEMAN:,
the remainder going off like hot cakes to residents of Franklin. We
must not omit to mention that Mr. Black, route agent of the Utah
Northern R. R., was a participant in the hunt, and that he and
H. W. O. Margery also received each a present of the rarity. The
fat on the tenderloin was three inches thick.
The public are notified that such game is so plentiful about
Franklin that in many places they have made serious inroads upon
the stock; and the family of Wm. Bradshaw, comprising himself, wife,
and four children, were so annoyed t)y their inroad upon their hogs
that, after nine swine had been taken out of the pen and devoured,
Mr. Bradshaw considered it unsafe to remain with his family, and
therefore left his homestead-driven away by bears.  This was on
a travelled road along Deep Creek, six miles from Malad City, Idaho.
Mr. Keeney will furnish the most superb outfits for hunting parties,
and Broadbent will admirably guide any persons desiring a grand bear
hunt in the neighborhood of Franklin.
Sir Rose Price expresses himself as fully impressed that the Bengal
tiger is not near so spirited a battler as the Rocky Mountain grizzly.
He is delighted with the sport.  Sir Rose presents the appearance of
a much travelled man and an intrepid hunter.
A great number of bears have this year been seen
in many parts of the country. Within thirty miles
of Salt Lake City I heard of several being noticed,
but almost invariably they are given a wide berth.
A man will tell you of having seen "grizzlies," but
if asked" Did he kill any?" generally replies, "Guess
I never lost no bar, and don't want to find none."
T2
275
A BEAR HUNT. 
THE TWO A]iIER?ICAS.
Notwithstan(ling all this, the bear is not half so
formidable a beast as he is represented, and killing
a tiger on foot (not from a tree or an elephant remember-any "muff" can do that-.but fairly face to
face in the jungle) is far and away a more dangerous
game in every respect, and requires much more
nerve to do it. A ball properly placed wvill kill
a bear as easily as a snipe; and this bear who
was  so near eating  thle two' English  Lords"
fell stone dead at the very first fire, which was
delivered at about five yards' distance and tookl effect
in the brain, the ball entering one inch over the
left eye.
A man hunting grizzly bears alone should always
have a dog. Not "' a giant canine best described as
a cross between a bull and a mastiff," but a wellplucked ordinary cur, such as all really valuable bear
dogs generally are. I have passed within a few
feet of a bear in cover without being aware of it,
until a dog brought to the place immediately afterwards found out and started him from the very spot
I had almost walked over. A couple of good active
curs who will bark and snap at the bear is all one
wants. At this time of the year Master Bruin is
found in thick copses of fruit-trees or berries, where
it would be almost impossible, as well as extremely
dangerous, for a man to get out a bear without their
assistance.  Thle instinct of nine bears out of ten is
to retire when they first discover the presence of
men; but if wounded, or with cubs, they will quite
as generally show fight.  It is worth remembering
that, when taking a body shot at bear, their heart
276 
OGDEN.
lies low.  I had been told this by old hunters, and
took the first opportunity of convincing myself, by
anatomical examination, of the correctness of their
statement. A knife blade four inches long can reach
it comfortably.   In tolerably open ground, a cool
man armed with a breechloading rifle has nothing
to fear, as a bear nearly al,ways stops when wounded,
no matter how slightly, to bite and growl, and could
be filled with bullets, even before coming unpleasantly
near.   This latter plan, however, spoils the skih,
and one express bullet, properly placed at close
quarters, will generally be found quite sufficient.
Franklin is at present the terminus of the Utah
N:,orthern in Idaho and point of departui  for mails
and passengers going north; the line is, however,
gradually being pushed on towards  Monitana, and
I fancy the importance enjoyed by the town at
present will soon decline. It is built on the usual
plan of all MIormon settlements, i.e. in large blocks,
every house with a garden and plenty of firnit-trees,
streams of water on each side of the broad streets,
and trees planted on the side-walks for shade..taving
slaugh,teied chickens until I was tired of firing at
them, I retraced my steps to Ogden, where, as on
a previous occasion, I had to pass a night, waitin(,
for my train.  Ogden is built at tlhe entrance of a
canon which runs from the Wahlsatchn Mountains,
and is a nice-looking town on the usual Mormon
plan.  Fair trout-fishing can be had on the liver,
blt at some distance from the town.   Two  rival
hlotels are at the station, andl only a few yards apart.
One is on the Union Pacific line, the other on the
277 
THE TWO A3IERICAS.
Utah Northern.   On the arrival of every train they
both bang gongs, and as they seem to fancy that the
fellow who hits hardest and longest will attract the
greatest amount of custom, the noise they kick up by
both night and day is simply fiendish.  There are
plenty of better hotels in the town, which is about
half a mile off, and one escapes this horrid row by
going there.
I nearly omitted mentioning that any one desirous
of seeing the "noble savage" can get plenty of him
all over Utah.  At Corinne, just before I went there,
about three thousand camped near the town.  Ogden
has generally a tribe or so loafing about; and as
the Mormons encourage and feed them for purposes
of their own, there are usually plenty idling the
time away, with dirty blankets, painted faces, and
half drunk.
A  ride of twenty-four hours in a Pullman, with
rather over the aveiage number of children and
i)abies, brought me to Laramie, in the territory of
Wyoming, which I had been recommended to make
my headquarters for shooting in the Rocky Mountains, and where I accordingly made a halt.
Laramie City is situated on the east bank of the
Big Lairamiie River, one mile below the crossing of
the old California emigrant road of 1849, and seven
miles below the crossing of the overland mail and
stage road near the centre of Laramie plains.  This
magnificent plain or park, comprising two million
acres of land at an elevation of 7170 feet above the
sea, is entirely surrounded by two spurs of the
Rocky M3ountains-on the eastern side by the range
278 
WOMENS RWHTS.          279
of the Black Hills, and on the western by  the
Medicine Bow range.
The Territory of Wyoming boasts of enjoying real
universal suffrage, the franchise being actually extended to females; and Laramie is celebrated as
being the first (and I trust it may be the last) place
in the territory, and pr6bably in the world, where
a female jury was ever empannelled. The enactment
passing this singular ordination by the Council and
House  of Representatives  of  the  Territory  of
Wyoming is dated the 10th of December, 1869, aind
runs, "That every woman of the age of twenty-one
years, residing in this territory, may, at every election
to be holden under the laws thereof, cast her vote.
And her rights to the elective franchise and to hold
office shall be the same under the election laws of
the territory as those of electors."  On the 7thl of
March, 1870, at the District  Court, several ladies
sat on the jury, hearing and deciding on various
cases. From this date, women's rights in Wyoming
seem to have been firmly establislhed, and a licence
legally given them by their territory to neglect
their domestic duties as wife and mother as much
as seemeth to them fit.
Fort Sanders, a military post established in 1866
for the protection of workmen engaged on the Union
Pacific line and the then infant town of Laramie,
is about two miles from Laramie Station.   1 had
with me a letter of introduction to Colonel B., who
was commanding the post, and shortly after my
arrival I delivered it in person.  My reception was
both courteous and hospitable.  The Colonel would
279
WOM7fEN'S RIGHTS. 
THE TWO AMIE,RICAS
not hear of my remainilrg ill the hotel at Laramie,
where I lhadtl engaged rooms. He senit off immediately
for my traps, and once more I w-as comfortably living
my  old barrack life, and enjoying  the novelty of
witnessing  and  critici,ing  a inew. service, while
waiting'for the shooting party which  the goodnatured Colonel had almost immediately offered to
get up.   The hleadquarters and band of the 2nd
Cavalry and one company of the 4th Regiment of
Infantry formed the little garrison, the remaining
portion of both regiments bteing engaged in looking
after Indians in different places about the post,
varying in distance from one hundred to a thousand
miles.  Three troops of the former were on escort
duty to the commissioners, at the great council being
held for negotiating the purchase of the Black HIlills
from tlhe Indians, so that but few officers were at the
post.
Some fair duck and hare shooting is to be had in
the imniediate vicinity of the post, and antelope are
within a couple of miles.  At this season of the year
the climate was all that one could wish for, and the
clear blue of an Italian sky seemed added to an
atmosphere indescribable for its extreme clearness
and invigorating purity.  The Ilocky Mountains are
indeed during the early autumn months the very
quintessence of perfection of climate. For these few
months I know  of nothling in Europe or anywhere
that can touch them, but preserve me from being
here in winter. Sanders is on a blea,k flat plain,
without the slightest protection of tree or hill to
shelter it from the fearful storms so common on the
280 
FORT SANDERS.            281
mountains;  "blizzards" they call tlem.   During
these blizzards man and beast alike sufler, and on
one occasion during the winter of'74 the spirit
thermomieter showed a register of 490 below zero.
A couple of days after my arrival the following
appeared in garrison orders:
IIEADQUAP,TERS, FOnT SANDERS, W. T.
&Sptember  19th, 1875.
SPECIAL ORDERS, }
No. (       1.  
0 *                  *          *          *         *
III. Captain  Wm. H. Powell, 4th Infantry, TV  P. Clark, Adjutant,
2nd Cavalry, and 1st Lieutenant, J. L.,'owl(r, R. Qr.-Mr., 2nd Cavalry,
with an escort of eight (8) men, will proceed to-morrow on a scout to
the vicinity of Sabille Pass and Laramie Peak, making a careful
examination of all roads and passes leading from the country known
as the Black IIills to the Laramie Valley.
An itinerary of the march and accurate account of the distance
travelled, as determined by an odometer, will be kept, and on return
of the party a map of the country scouted over, with a full report of
the trip, will be submitted.
The topography of the country as compared with the maps now
made will receive especial attention, and changes needed carefully
noted.
The Quartermaster's Department will furnish the necessary transportation. 
*         *         $         *         *         *
By order of
LIEUTENANT-COLONEL A. G. BRACKETT,
W. P. CLARK, LT. & ADJT., 2ND CAV.
This order entailed the most perfect coimbination
of duty with pleasure that it has ever been my lot to
witness, and on the day specified off we started in
tlhe highest possible spirits.   A  four-mule waggon
281
FORT SANDEIRS.
(Ef xti-act.) 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
carrying tents, bedding, and food, and a light
ambulance formed our transport. The escort were
mounted, and we each had a led horse for the chase.
Springfield and Express rifles, witlh a thousand
rounds of ammunition, and several varieties of shotguns formed our "battery," and thus equipped we
were fully prepared for grizzly bear or Indians, the
only two dangerous animals we were likely to colme
across.
The Indians anywhere within a hundred mniles of
their reservation are never to be trusted. Thley rob
and scalp inildiscriminately any small or unwary
parties they fall in with, to use a common western
expression, "all the time;" and as the Government
rarely permits their being followed into their reservations, even when troops are in hot pursuit of stolen
cattle, they are in my opinion rather encouraged to
run the risk than otherwise.   Officers have told me
that they have constantly seen the stolen cattle they
were in pursuit of over the border, having just
crossed  before they could seize it, and  that  the
"noble savages," knowing well the existing order
which protected them, testified their confidence in its
efficiency by derisive motions of exultation and
contempt.
On a wet snowy morning, unusual to find at this
time of the year, we left Fort Sanders, our route lying
over the plains that stretch away for many miles to
the north and south.   Our first day's niarchl was
uneventful, and chiefly exemplified the comfort of
travelling in a well-covered and easygoing ambulance, in contradistinction to riding in the blinding
282 
A SCOUT ON THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 283
sleet; my only experience hithlerto, during bad
weather, while on hunting parties.   A  few  hours
brought us away from all signs of civilisation.  As
far as the eye could reach towards north and south
lay a huge rolling prairie well sprinkled with
antelope, both single and in herds;  we had not
time, however, to wasted in stalking these  wary
creatures, and after a march of twenty-seven miles
we camped for the night not very far from Wyoming.
The government tent of the American service is a
far more comfortable habitation than the regulation
"bell" of our own.   The men are provided with
what are termed "A," and the officers with "wall,
tents; and as the canvas they are constructed of is
lighter and easier to pack than ours, they combine the
advantages of having more room with less weight to
carry..Our beds were formed of buffalo robes, and
the amount of luxuries forthcoming at dinner-time
fairly surprised me. A comfortable table to sit at,
and arm-chairs to smoke in afterwards, were good
things I little dreamed of ever enjoying on a hunting
expedition in the wildest part of the Rocky Mountains.
Next morning we had a sharp frost, severe enough
to throw a coating of ice over the water in my bath.
The snow and rain had disappeared, and for the rest
of our trip we had the most charming weather conceivable.   The extreme purity and lightness of the
atmosphere at this great elevation above the sea
gives to out-of-door life in these mountains a charm
that I have never felt elsewhere. Everything under
its seductive influence becomes couleur de rose, and one
seems to inhale exhilarating draughts of pure ozone 
THE TWO AMEERICAS.
morc vivifying than all the brandy-cocktails in a
San Franciscan bar.
Our line of march ran for some miles-close by and
parallel to thlo Union Pacific Railwvay.  Laige shleets
of zi'nc or tin, torn from thlle roofs of the carriages
by the prodigious force of thie wind during winter
storms, strewed the way, and at intervals snow.sheds
and snow-fe-nces protecting the line showed tl)e kind
of weather one mliglt look forward to in January or
Deceimber.
On  strilking off from  the railway  the country
becaime wilder  and  game  more  abundant.   We
passed over a succession of bluffs, and from the top
of each invariably saw hlerds of prong-horned antelope
(Antilocapra  Am)ericana, Ord), the only  representative of its species inlIal)iting the continent. They
were extremely shy, seldom offering a shot closer than
four hundred yards, and a good number of rounds
weire fruitlessly expended.  AWe only got one during
the day, which I kilied by a chance shot at ratl,er
over a thousand yards witll anl American Springfield
rifledcl musklet, calibre forty-five. The ball went in at
thle eye, passing through the necklc, and it being such
a singtular shot we measured the distance, wljich was
exactly a thlousand and ninety yards.
Thlough tolerably familiar with the appearance of
many of the vast tribes of the antelope species inhabitirig Eastern Africa, I had never before met the
"prong-hlorned," and was glad of an opportunity
that added a new head to my collection.
This  animial is nearly the size of our ordinary
fallow deer.  The hair is everywhere very coarse,
284 
PRONG-HORNED ANTELOPE 2.
thick,  spongy, and  easily torn  apairt,, sonmewhat
resembling the South Afiican "klip-springler," whose
hide is so eagerly sought after by the Dutclh boers
for saddle cloths, and I thinkl these antelope skins
would answer very well for thle same purpose.  The
head is broad, much hollowed on the forehead; the
ridge of the muzzle narrow, high, and convex; the
outline of the head narrow and tapering.  The horns
are situated very far back, are much compressed
antero-posteriorly, with a broad, compressed, pointed
snag directed upwards and forwards; beyond this
anterior snag the horn becomes rounded and tapers
to an acute and compressed tip; vwhen near the tip the
direction of the horn, instead of being upwards with
a slight outward divergence, changes abruptly and
bends inwards and a little backlwards.  The terminal
portion.of the horn is smooth and polished; the basal,
on the contrary, is generally warty and roughened
by angular tubercles of greater or less size.
The geographical distribution of the American
antelope is pretty well indicated.   According  to
Dr. Richardson, it is found as far north as the north
branch of the Sasklatchewan in lat. 53.  It is spread
all over the plains between the Missouri River to the
Rocky Mountains, and as far wvest as the coast range
of California and Oregon.  To the south it reatches
the Rio Grande at its mnouth, and probably extends
some distance into Mexico.
In some places we passed large tracts covered
with sage-bush, and frequently put up and shot a
very handsome bird called the "sage-cock" (Centrocercus8 u'rophasia)us, Swaii2son).  They are one of
285 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
the numerous birds that come, as I have described,
erroneously under the head of "chickens,"  being
often confounded with the "prairie-hlen" of the
plains.   This bird varies much  in size, the male
being considerably larger and heavier than the
female.  They are like lhug,e grouse, feathered to the
toes, about the size of turkeys; and one of unusual
growth, which I shot during our trip, measured
forty-eig,ht inches from tip to tip of its extended
wings.  The weather still continued magnificent, and
moving quietly onward by easy marches averaging
twenty-eight miles, we reached on the third day our
camping-ground on the North Fork of the Laramie
River, about nine miles from Laramie Peak.
Our tents were pitched on a level sward at the
mouth of a canon, through which for about eighteen
miles coursed the North Fork of the Laramie, a
small  stream  apparently full of  beavers, whose
beautifully-built dams shored up and kept from
drying during the heat of summer many a mile of
river. When first I saw these wonderfully-con
structed works of art, I felt certain that I was
looking at some new description of fish-trap made
by the Indians; and wondered if they were in the
habit of visiting them often to get what I supposed
they contained, and if many came together. The
sticks were planted with an evenness and regularity
that quite surprised me; and unless I had been told
by one of our party who the builders really were,
should have been quite satisfied in my own mind
that it was a particularly clever fish-catch.
Shortly after camping, Lieutenants C., F., and
286 
MY FIRST ELK.
myself mounted and started up the caion. Mr. F.
knew the country wvell, and  had  only a month
previously killed two bears, besides elk and mountain
sheep, while hunting over the same ground, and was
consequently sanguine enough about our getting
sport. We had some terribly rough ground to ride
over along the river bank, and for the first eight
miles saw nothing. C. was on one side, and F. and
self on the other.  I began to fancy we should have
a blank day, when suddlenly F., who was leading,
sprang off his Indian pony, and crouching down
motioned with his hand to look ahead. I did so;
'and there, not a hundred yards from us, standing in
the river and almost concealed by its high banks,
stood a band of four magnificent ellk. I did not get
the "elk-fever," but I was certainly for a few seconds
quite lost in admiration as I gazed on these superb
creatures.
Some confusion exists in the name of this animal,
the term "elk" having been applied by several
European writers to the moose (Cervus alces, or Alces
7lalchis), an animal entirely different and not half so
handsome, though of about same size. These were,
however, the true American elk (Cervus Canadensis,
Erxleben), sometimes called wapiti by Barton and
Leach. They evidently were quite unaware of our
presence as we were well to leeward; and the ground
being favourable, I really believe we might have got
within forty yards undetected, had not the mule
Lieutenant C. was riding suddenly given a most
hideous bray. The elk immediately sprang in alarm
upon the bank, and simultaneously C. and myself
287 
UTHE TWO AMERPICAS.
opened fire.  The band now gained an open space,
and I can  hardly conceive a more beautiful siglht
than that of tlhese four lordly beasts, with their
imimense antlers tlrown well balck on their shoulders,
trotting in bewilderment about the plain as the
bullets fromn they knew not where came whizzing
by them..
The whole picture was replete with beauty.  The
winding river, the hleavily-mneadowed plain, the lofty
and precipitous sides of the canion on one bank of
the stream slightly wooded, and the beautiful clear
volatile atmosphere  of the Rocky MIountains, all
combined to render the sight one never to be forgotten.  The two elk we had first fired at were hard
hit, and leaving the band, who soon trotted out of
silght, cane back towards the river, evidently with
the intention of staniding at bay.  One of them took
to the water close by where I was standing, and was
soon put out of paiin by a bullet behind the shoulder
delivered at about twelve  yards, and the other
received its coUp de grace from C. about a hundred
y-ards farther up thle river.
They were both in splendid condition, and had
macrgnificent well-antlered heads.  Had it not been
for C.'s musical mnule I believe we should have killed
the entire baid; but, as it was, getting two out of
four was pretty good luckl; after having performied the
obsequies for the dead, and hlung the heads on a tree
out of reachl of wolves, we returned to camllp highly
elated with our fortune.
Next day was devoted to getting in thie elk, and
looking for bear.  We saw plenty of signs of bruin,
288 
_ MM
- - __
~'J
PliE   FltiST.-" I  (,UES,,'  HiE',   I)UAI)  1,NOL~Gl."
,-/,/  I                 I 
S,,e 1)(ifle 29.  
LOST ON THE MO UNTAINS.
some not twenty minutes old, but had no bear-dog
and were unable to get him out of cover. Once Mr.
C.'s dog, a setter, came bolting out of a thicklet, and
rushed, with tail depressed and hackles standing,
between his master's legs. C.'s backlc was turned at
the time, and I never saw a fellow hop round quicker,
as he certainly thought the bear was right upon him.
We beat the ground with almost recklless closeness,
but were unable to unearth Master Bruin, who seemed
somehow to be aware of the hot reception awaiting
him, and was quite determined not to show.
Thle whole of the country is so intersected with
canons travelling on horseback becomes extremely
difficult, and a novice can lose himself with most
uncomfortable ease. Once while rIuating "mountain
sheep" (Ovis 3fontana), an animal similar to the
mouflon.(Caprovis Husinmon) of Sardinia, with Lieutenant C. and a sergeant, we lost our bearings, and
after some hours'wandering became quite bewildered,
those horrible-looking ravines being on every side.
After riding many miles, we determined on venturing
to cross a canon along whose sides we had crawled a
long time vainly endeavouring to find a practicable
place for descent, and which we felt certain lay between
us and the one containing our camp. The more we
looked, the less we liked it; but the sun was getting
terribly low, and in a short time we knew darkness
would close upon us and our fate for the night be
sealed.
C. had gone on an exploring expedition by himself,
and had we imagined most probably either broken
his own or his pony's neck long before this.  One
u
289 
THLE TWO AMERICAS.
thing was quite evident, the canon must be crossed;
so the sergeant and myself began a closer inspection
of the yawning abyss preparatory to attempting the
descent.  Had it not been for an accident it is quite
certain we should have never got down. Seeing a
couple of openings, I led my mule towards one,
telling my companion to try the other, and arranging
that whloever found a practicable road should shout
for the other to come to him.
Half an hour spent in a state of extreme nervousness in endeavouring to lead down places where only
monkeys could climb, convinced me of the impossibility of descending by my route, and retracing my
steps I went to the place reconnoitred by the sergeant.
It looked quite as bad as my  own, but I saw his
trail for some distance until it became lost on the
roclis, and arguing that, bad as it looked, where one
mule could go another could follow, I pushed on, considering at the same time the odds were at least fifty
to onre in favour of my animal furnishing a meal in a
very few hours for coyotes and wolves, and wondering how on earth the sergeant managed to get down.
Several times I tried to go back, but that really was
impossible, and, to make a long story short, I at last
succeeded in reaching the bottom. What was my
surprise on getting there to hear a shout, and to see
my friend the sergeant hard at work half-way up the
side, looking uncommonly like a fly on a wall, on the
old route I had deserted, as being impracticable.
It appears that he had given up his first attempt, as
I had mine; we had both crossed to the places first
tried by tile other, and both went down them, fancy
290 
MURDERS BY THE "NOBLE SAVAGE."
ing the other had already accomplished the feat. On
looking from the bottom at the place we had descended, it seems as if we must have dreamed we
came down there, and had any one told me that he
had taken any four-footed animnal over such a place,
it vwould have required considerable experience of his
veracity ere I could have believed it possible. Our
good luck stuck to us, for more by that than by good
management we had stumbled into the very canon
which contained our camp, and got back by nightfall; but it was the merest chance in the world, and
we narrowly escaped being three or four days lost on
the hills. We had neither blankets nor food, and considering the amount of Indians in the vicinity always
on the qui vive for scalps, had we not blundered
on the right trail, our position would have been
dangerous as well as disagreeable.
On our return journey we passed some beautiful
natural meadow land, well watered and admirably
adapted for agricultural purposes, but unsettled owing
to its dangerous vicinity to Indian reservations. All
along the North  Fork of fie Laramie this land
seemed equally valuable, and it appears hard that a
country so fertile should still remain in its native and
primitive condition, owing to the dangerous proximity
of these savages, who would most certainly run off
with both scalps and cattle, were settlers to venture,
situated as things are at present, to establish themselves in the locality.
Lieutenant F., who was guide and had arranged the
expedition, intended on starting to have hunted on
the IHorse Shloe, a two days' farther march from the
TT 2
291 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
North Fork; but the journey up quite tired our
animals, who were rather a poor lot owing to the
best teams being away in the Black Hills with the
troops at the "great council," and we had to return
without getting the cream of the sport we expected.
We hutited instead on and about Laramie Peak, the
highest point of the Rocky Mountains, and, thl-ough
we should probably have killed more game on the
Horse Shoe, our trip was en,joyable and pleasant as
it well could be, and the bag, which consisted of 2 elk,
17 antelope, 35 blue grouse, 54 sage-hens, 28 duck,
25 hares, 2 rattlesnakes, and a badger, was sufficiently mixed to show that the sport obtained was
both excellent and varied.
One of the first things we heard on our arrival at
Fort Sanders was that three white men  had been
killed and scalped on the very ground we had been
shooting over, while we were up there. The following is from a local paper; but the account of the
other poor fellows, who were both scalped, I lost.
.pecial. to tte' Sentine.'
FORT LARAMIE, Sept. 23.
The body of a man by the name of John Little was just brought
into this post. He was killed by Indians near the mouth of the North
Fork of the Laramie, about twenty, miles from this post and not far
fr(om F. M  Phillip's ranch.  Some of his stock had been run off, and
he went in pursuit of it last Sunday, which was the last time he was
seen alive. His body was found yesterday. The ears are cut off, and
his nose and chin look as if they were shot off. He is also shot
through the body.  There were suppos-ed to have been only three
Indians in the party that killed him.
As hunting on the Indian frontier is invariably
attended with considerable danger to small or badly
292 
ABOUT INDIANS.
armed parties, and as the most unceasing vigilance
even in large ones is required to prevent the loss of
cattle, an unprotected train of horses and mules being
a temptation no Indian can withstand, a few words
concerning these people may not come in amiss, particularly now that the Black Hill question is directing
general attention to Indian affairs.  My host had
been many years on the frontier, and much of my
Indian information I got from himn.*
The principal Indian tribes between the Pacific and
about here are the Pi-Utes (or Water Utes) and the
Utes, many of whoni reside in Utah, and are some of
them converts to the Moirmon religion; the Shoshones
or Snakes; Ihe Dakotas or Sioux, and their cousins
the Arapahoes and Cheyenrnes. The Pi-Utes are the
same, or nearly the same, as the Di',ger Indians of
California, though perhaps not as degraded. There
are two reservations in the State of Nevada possessed
almost entirely by these Indians.''Thle first is on the
Truckee River, and near the southern extremity of
Pyramid Lake, where the Indians are headed by
Wini-ne-muck-a, who is the war chief of the nation;
the second is on Walker Lake and along Walker
River, where the Indians have for their leader a
gigantic and at the same time amiable savage, named
Big George, who is their peace chief.  These Indians
are still nearly in a wild state, and seem to have very
little respect for any authority save that of the
military. They wvander about at will, and seem to
have direct connection with the tribes of the north,
by means of trails which reach out to the N.W.
* See Appendix C.
293 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
across the Mud Lake Plain, on to the Madeline Plains,
and thence to the head waters of the Sacramenlto
and McLeod rivers, where I was salmon fishing some
pages back. There is a considerable quantity of
game on the reservations, but the principal reliance
of the Indians is on fish. For winter supplies great
numbers of rabbits are killed, their meat smoked and
dried, and their skins made into robes. Besides the
Indians on the reservations, there are other small
bands which roam through the northern portions of
thie State of Nevada, and commit many depredations
on the white settlers. With these frequent skirmishes
occur, and their numl)ers are rapidly diminiishing.
These figlts, however, sometimes assume the proportions of respectable actions, and the stand made by the
Pi-Utes on the Truckee reservation in 1860 is even now
spoken of with terror by the people of that-region.
In this action young Win-ne-miuck-a moved about
like the genius of destruction and incited his braves
to deeds of daring and cruelty. Ormsby, the leader
of the whites, was killed, and the volunteers driven in
confusion off the field.
The Indians are very superstitious, and some of
their proceedings are of the most puerile description.
Their doctors or medicine-men depend in great part
on their knowledge of sorcery to effect a cure, and it
requires considerable fortitude to become an Indian
doctor, inasmuch as he who loses a patient forfeits
his life.  Wlien  one of their number falls sick, the
Indians gather about and dance near the patient
during the whole night, singing in the meantime
a weird  monotonous song until daybreak, when,
294 
THE PI-UTES.
becoming almost frantic in their gestures and movements, they chase the witch far off on the plain. They
claim that the patient is bewitched, and that they can
hear the voices of the witches in the night breeze.
One Pi-Ute doctor said that when he died, if the
Indians would cut him to pieces, the pieces would all
unite again immediately,,and that he would ascend
into the heavens in a cloud of smoke.  This was too
much for Indian curiosity, and a bystander despatched
the doctor with a blow of his knife. The body was
then cut to pieces, but much to the disgust of all
present the remains of the poor wretch refused to
move, and were left on the ground as food for wolves.
It is a mistake to believe that their chiefs, as such,
have much power over the members of the tribe.  If
their war expeditions are of considerable importance,
their chjief leads; but in making war or preparing
for any enterprise of moment, the darling wish of the
Indian heart is to meet, and smoke, and speak in
council.  It is here that the leaders are most at
horne, and it is here that they make their greatest
effort to impress their superiority upon the other
members of their tribe. In these councils everything
is carried on with the greatest decorum, and' no
speaker of any nation is more careful of his oratory.
They have a war and a peace chief, whose power is
very limited; and several sub-chiefs, who occupy
about the relative position of a county justice of the
peace in civilised communities. The laws of property
are well understood among them, and he who owns
several ponies is considered a person of no mean
importance, and is respected accordingly.
29.5 
THE TWO AliERICAS.
Labour devolves upon the squaws, and in summertime they are engaged in getting grass seeds, pine
nuts, &c., which are preserved for winter use.  In
fact they do all the drudgery of the camp, and while
travelling carry the loads.  An Indian who has any
pretension to being a leading man has as a general
tIling two or three wives, who roam about in the
most abject and miserable condition.  As to cleanliness among the Pi-Utes, it does not exist even in
name. Filth, morning noon and night, is always to
be found. Their lodges are poorly constructed, and
when a locality becomes so dirty as to be no longer
endurable, the lodge poles are pulled up and the band
moves off to some new and clean place. So it is from
vyear to year, always moving, always careworn, and
always, when outside of thle reservations, in constant
dread of the American soldiers.
In the summer of 18S65 the Pi-Utes were very
troublesome, and killed Lieutenant-Colonel MeDermot,
who was at that time in command of the district of
Nevada, while he was out on a scout.  Active operations were at once instituted against them, and two
most successful actions were fought against them by
MIajor Smith and Captain Conrad. These, in addition
to several minor skirmishes, taught the savages that
it would be well for them to be more careful of their
behaviour in future.   The northwestern portion of
the state has been kept quiet for a long time, and
the bands about Quins or Queen River were nearly
all brought in as prisoners through the exertions of
my friend Colonel Brackett in the autumn of 1867.
As to religion, it is doubtfuil wlhether these Indians
296 
INDIAN CHIEFS.
have any belief whatever of this kind. An Indian
religion at best is but a miserable affair, and the
Pi-Utes seem destitute of any.  They are a revengefiul and cruel race, but are not devoid of industry, as
their labour upon the farmis iii Long Valley and upon
the Truckee attest. They do a little workl in Virginia
City at sawing wood and& other light jobs, but it is
impossible to get them to work underground in the
silver mines.
Young Win-ne-muck-a is a man of a good deal of
mind, and is moreover one who is really anxious to
improve the condition of his people.  Hle wishes
them to have farrns, and to raise large herds of cattle
and horses. Old Win-ne-muck-a is among the wild
Indians of the north, where he has gathered about him
a large band of renegades from the Pi-Ute, Shoshonee,
and Snake tribes. He became incensed against the
whites on account of the cruel and unnecessary
murder of his wives and children near the banks of
the Pyramid Lake by a party in 1864, and then and
there swore he would have a terrible and unrelenting
revenge against civilised people.  He has more than
made his threat good, and several massacres which
have taken place in Northern Nevada can be traced
directly to him.  In early times the Pi-Utes had a
terrible war with the Waslhoes, and after desolating
them carried off all their horses and many of their
best-looking women. For years the Washoes were
kept in subjection, and it was only after the whites
settled the country that they again got the right to
own horses and arms, and keep their women for
themselves.
297 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
As a tribe the Pi-Utes are singularly free from the
vice of intemperance. Most tribes take to intoxicating liquors with a love which is only given up at
death, but these Indians do not like liquor, and as a
rule it is difficult to get them to take it. Their
women are virtuous, and unchastity is punished with
death. This may appear strange among a people
who seem to be so utterly degraded, but still it is
true. The poor women lead a sad and unhappy life,
and one which to a civilised being seems utterly
hopeless, but among all the sins committed by them
that of unchastity is not numbered.
Gambling is a besetting sin of the Indian men, and
they risk all they have, ponies, horses, bows, arrows,
and whatever else they own, on a game called by the
whites "Pi-Ute Poker." In this game five cards are
dealt out to each man, and one pile is left in the
centre.  The one nearest the dealer picks up a card,
and if necessary discards one, and he who can first
get three pairs takes the stakes. I remember watching one of these games for some time at Virginia
City, and a queer-looking card party they made, as
"bucks" and "squaws" sat in a circle under the
shade of a deserted house, perfectly indifferent to the
din of engines and machinery at work all round
them. The men were all painted with red and yellow
colours, and wore white low-crowned felt hats,
evidently recently purchased. The women sat together, some of them with children in the curious
wicker-work cages slung on their backs, and appeared,
as far as I could judge, to play against the men.
Plenty of silver was in circulation, and one good
298 
SHOSHONEE OR SNAKE INDIANS.
looking squaw, who was gambling freely, had quite a
pile of dollars by her.  As to the number of these
Indians it is a difficult matter to judge, but there
cannot be over four thousand of them in Nevada,
with perhaps two thousand more in Oregon, Idaho,
and Utah. There is also a small band in Northern
Arizona.   Outside of the reservations  they  are
rapidly diminishing, and a few years hence all of
them will be numbered with the things that were.
They are departing for ever; the smoke of their
council fires is becoming less frequent; the plains and
mountain sides of Nevada will soon cease to echo
back their footsteps, and all will be gathered to "the
land of the hereafter."
The Shioshonee or Snake Indians number about eight
thousand, and wander through Idaho, Northern Utah,
Wyoming, Montana, Southern Oregon, and California. The small tribe who under Captain Jack gave
so much trouble at the lava beds, about sixty miles
from where I was fishing in Northern California, was
composed of about equal numbers of Modocs and
Snakes. The tribal relationship between the Shoshonees, Bannacks, and Comanches is very close, and
any one speaking the Shoshonee language could
travel without difficulty from Mexico to Oregon. Of
course each band has its peculiarities, but in the main
they are i'much alike, and if they could be combined,
would form one of the most powerful Indian confederations in America.
A Shoshonee brave in full dress is a very great
dandy, and thinks no "small beer" of himself.  He
has a hunting shirt of tanned buckskin, with heavy
fringes of the same, ornamentedl with rows of white
299 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
and pink beads on the shoulders and outside of the
sleeves. His hair is carefully combed out and adorned
withl brass bosses. Large hoops of brass form his
earrings.   His moccasins are highly embroidered.
His trowsers are gay-coloured and fit loosely. An
embroidered belt hangs over his left shoulder, and a
tomahawk completes his equipment.
The Sioux are a nation numbering nearly forty
thousand, and are by far the most numerous and
powerful tribe of the North American Continent.
In their own dialect these Indians call tl.hemnselves
Dakotas. For centuries past they have held sway
over the whole of the northwestern portion of
the United States lying near the head( waters of the
Mississippi River, and along a great portion of
the Missouri. They have been and are "the lords
of the plains;" and every man and animal that has
passed through their country for ages past has done
so only with their permission.   They  are brave,
hardy, and warlike, and able to bring into the field
such numbers of men as to override their weaker
neighbours and keep them in the proper degree of
subjection. In general terms, all Sioux Indians
living north and east of the Missouri River are
Santee Sioux, while those living south and west of
that stream are Teton Sioux. Of late years, however, these names have got greatly mixed up.  This
tribe is divided into several bands; named respectively,  Sisseton,  Warpeton,  Cuthead,  Brule',
Ogallala or Red  Clouds, Minneconjou, Yanctonai,
Yankton, Uncapa, Two Kettle, Sans-Arc, Blackfeet,
and Santees Proper. It must not be understood
from this that all these bands are clearly and fully
300 
SIOUX OR DAKOTAS.
defined. The Indians have a way of mixing themselves up from time to time, so that it is utterly out
of the question for a white man to make out much
in regard to them.  Wbhen  any  depredation of a
peculiarly aggravated character is committed, the
Indians help one another, and endeavour to makle it
appear that they themselves are unable to find the
criminals, on account of the number of different
bands. These bands occupy an immense extent of
country, and are able on occasions to bring into the
field more than five thousand warriors well armed
and mounted.
For years past they have dictated their own terms
to both white and red men, and have declared their
intention to continue such a course in the future.
The members of this tribe are personally brave, and
all the.men are trained soldiers and hunters. They
make no concealment of their supposed ability to
defeat the people of the United States whenever and
wherever they are so minded, and point to the
various  battles in  which  they  have  beaten the
whites in proof of this assertion.  Nothing but an
overwhelming defeat and humiliation will convince
them of the absurdity of this Lelief.
They have plenty of horses, the very best kind of
arms, a full supply of ammunition, and it will be
no joke to conquer them; but whatever may be the
cost, it will have to be done sooner or later, and the
recent discovery of gold in the Black Hiills must
shortly bring things to a climax.*
* This was written prior to the recent war and the slaughter of
General Custer and his entire command.
301 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
The Sisseton and Warpeton bands have two
reservations.  One at Lake Travense, Dakota, containing 1,241,000 acres, where there are 1500 Indians.
The other is near Devil's Lake, Dakota, where
there are over 700 Indians, including the Cutheads.
These Indians lived in Minnesota at the time of the
frightful massacres in that state, and murdered
many people, including both women and children,
in cold blood.
The Yanktons, numbering about 2000, are located
in the extreme southern part of Dakota Territory,
on the east side of the Missouri River, about fifty
miles from the town of Yankton, upon a reservation
of 400,000 acres.  This reservation is nearly all
rolling prairie set apart for them by the treaty of
1858, of the tract then ceded by them to the United
States  They have not been much inclined to work,
and, although there is good land within their
reservation, are poor, having still to be supported in
a great measure by the Government.
The Uncapapa, Blackfeet, Yanctonai, Sans-Arc,
Brule', Two Kettle, Minneconjou, and Ogallala bands
are located at five different agencies-viz. the
Upper  Missouri or Crow Creek Agency, on  the
east side of the Missouri; Grand River Agency, at
the mouth of the Cheyenne River; the Whetstone
Agency (so called from its former location at the
junction of the Whetstone with the Missouri River),
on the White River, about 225 miles west of the
lMissouri;  and the Red  Cloud  and Spotted Tail
Agency in Nebraskla.
The Indians at the agencies number in the
302 
SIOUX OR DAKOTAS.
aggregate over 22,000. They have a reservation set
apart for them by the treaty of 1868, containing
about 25,000,000 acres lying west of the Missouri
River and north of Nebraska.   For years these
Indians have been hostile. They are doing everything in their power to prevent the completion of
the Northern Pacific Railroad, and show their
deep-rooted hatred to the whites on every possible
opportunity.
For several years past the Sioux have been laying
in an ample supply of arms and ammunition, for the
purpose of commencing a war upon the people of the
United States; and late atrocities committed by them
would seem to indicate that they are now, not only
ready, but anxious, to have the war commence.
The Northern Pacific Railroad has always been a
thorn in the side of the Sioux, and many of them
have sworn by the ashes of their fathers that it shall
not be built. They say the road will destroy their
land, and the engines will sing the death-knell of
their people.  The Great Spirit is angry with them
for allowing the road to be started west of the Mississippi River, and the shades of the dead of their deserted
graveyards watch at night in the hollow caves of the
mountains, while they wail over the degeneracy of
their children, who are about to be overcome by the
white men.  The sun goes down in blood; the storm
clouds gather in the Spirit Land; and the children of
thle nation-if any are left-will become pigmies, who
will have no dwellings except in the branches of
thorn bushes.
It is impossible to tell how long the Sioux have
303 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
had possession of the country which is now occupied
by them.  They were found on the grounds they now
occupy when the French discovered them, and were
known as Naudowisses.  As they required new lands,
they made war upon the neighbouring tribes, and
carried their conquests far to the north and west.
They always had able leaders, and this no doubt
is the secret of their successes. They are a stolid
race of men, and only seem to get thoroughly waked
up when murdering or robbing.   Their cruelty to
prisoners taken by them knows no bounds.  When
found they were a powerful nation of Indians, and
have held that power until the present day. At times
they have pretended to be friendly with the whites,
but this was only to get some great advantage over
their Indian enemies.  In diplomacy they are fully
equal to the whites, and in almost every instance
where they have made treaties they have retained a
decided advantage to themselves. In peace and wMar
they are cunning, revengeful, and sneaking, and little
or no dependence can be placed on what they say.
As winter approaches these Indians become very
friendly to the whites, as they wish to get as much out
of them as they possibly can in the way of food and
ammunition; but when spring-time returns they commence depredations which last until the grass begins
to die on the prairies, and there is no longer anything
left for their horses to eat. In the summer it is easy
for them to hide their women and children in the
mountains, where there is no difficulty about getting
enough for them to subsist on; but during the cold
winter months they live in the thick bushes near the
304 
TEE BLACK HILLS.
margins of the streams, and behave comparatively well.
Soldiers might almost as Well attack a whisp of snipe
as attack those Indians during the summer months,
as they disappear with almost equal facility; but in
winter, when they have all their camp equipage with
them, they can easily be overcome and severely
punishied.
Red Cloud and Spotted Tail, two leading merl of
the Sioux, have been at Washington to visit the
Great Father, and both have an abiding sense of the
power of the United States.  This seems, however, to
have very little effect upon the majority of their tribe,
who are panting to be on the war-path with all its
dangers and excitements. The older Indians are colntent to stay in comfortable lodges and behave themselves; but the young men scorn such effeminaey,
and long for the day when they may meet their
foenen (no matter who) in the shock of battle.  One
of them, talking in his brolken way, made this statement, as related by Colonel Brackett: " Me got heap
of horses; heap of squaw; plenty good grub; but me
no go)t scalp.  All the time squaws say,' Why you no
get scalp, same like oder Injen?'" Here is the seeret
of the desire to go on the war-path-it is to get scalps,
in order that they may make a great figure in the
eyes of their nation, and be honoured as becomes a
great warrior.
This desire to get scalps may soon be gratified.
At the time I write news has just been published
of the utter failure of the Commissioners sent by the
United States to treat with the Sioux for the purchase of the Black Hills.  Spotted Tail, Chief of the
*                           A;~~~
305' 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
Brules; Red Cloud, Chief of the Ogalla]ahs; Red
Dog, Orator of the Sioux nation; Little Bad Man,
Chief of a northern band; Swift Bear, a Chief of the
Two Kettle band from the Cheyenne Agency; Lone
Horn, Chief of the Arrapahoes; and nearly three
hundred chiefs of lesser note were present. After a
council which lasted about four weeks, the Indian
demands were so preposterous the Commissioners
had to break up the conference, and both parties
retired disgusted. A short explanation concerning
the cause of this unusual Commission is perhaps
necessary to some of my readers, and a very few
words will suffice to put them in possession of the
leading facts,
In the Black Hills, a part of the Sioux reservation,
large and valuable deposits of gold have recently
been discovered.. This news becoming widely
spread, numbers of men rushed to the spot regardless of the fact that the land belonged exclusively to
the Indians. The United States troops were then
despatched to preserve the integrity of the Indian
reservation, and soon, by a judicious mingling of
the suaziter in modo and fortiter in re, persuaded the
miners to retire; informing them that a Commission would shortly be appointed from Washington
to treat with the Sioux for the purchase of this part
of their territory, and that they might then legally
R'esume their labours.  The miners retired, and the
Comimission sat. The Indians demanded $70,000,000
as the price of the land. Red Cloud, in his speech,
said six generations of Indians had passed away.
The only condition on which the Sioux nation would
306 
THE BEGINNING OF THE END.
sell the hills would be a guarantee that the Indians
should be provided for during the next six generations. An Indian generation is one hundred years.
He said he considered the hills more valuable in the
precious metals than the entire wealth of the United
States. Hie proposed to ask a large sum for them;
the principal to be put at interest, and from  the
latter to derive sufficient to keep the Sioux nation.
In addition he wanted for each head of an Indian
family six yoke of oxen, a waggon, a span of horses,
harness, a bull, a cow, a sow, a boar, a sheep, a ram,
chickens, coffee, tea, sugar, rice, cracked corn, beans,
dried apples, and a host of other articles. Ile enumerated also house and furniture, the same as white
men. Ile said the Government were trying to make
a white man out of him, and he wanted to indulge
the white men. The other chiefs' demands were
equally preposterous, and seeing that there was not
the most remote probability of a settlement ever
being arrived at, the parties engaged separated, each
mutually disgusted with the other.
The miners all this time were quietly watching the
conference, and those who left the Hlills upon the
understanding that the Government were about to
purchase themn are now preparing to return   All
negotiations having failed, neither fear of the Indians
nor dread-of the troops will scare these hardy and
desperate men from their race for gold. There is not
a town of the smallest importance anywhere near the
Hills where these men are not quietly fitting out.
The Government being unable to manage affairs,
they will do so themselves; and a very short time
x2
207 
THE TWO AMIEP, ICAS.
will see the ambition of the young Sioux braves
realised, and every opportunity be given them for
gathering scalps.  A few stray murders have already
been committed. During the time I was hunting in
the vicinity of Laramie Peak, three white men were
killed and scalped in the very section of country we
were wandering over.  It is, however, the beginning
of the end-Gold, the great civilising agent of the
world, is hard at work-and nothing can now stop
the tide of adventurous and desperate men flocking
in on the coveted possessions.  These forerunners
of civilisation, though in themselves unscrupulous,
vindictive, and cruel as the savages they are destined
to replace, will soon become possessed of a firm
footing.  The legitimate trader will rapidly follow in
their footsteps; the settler will gradually appear; and
in time railroads and a distinct form of municipal
government will render the at present dangerous
and formidable Sioux as innocuous and peaceable as
the few remaining Indian tribes so rapidly becoming
extinct.
During my stay at Fort Sanders, President Grant
passed through Larainie, and, all the officers going to
pay their respects, Colonel B. was good enough to
invite me to join them.   Onl arriving at the railway
station I found a small crowd of people waiting for
the President's arrival, and not long afterwards his
train drew up and halted by the platform.  I never
saw less enthusiasm at the reception of any distinguished individual than was displayed here.  For
some moments the crowd seemed undecided as to
who was the President, and a man near me shouted
308 
PRESIDENT GRA.NT.
out, " Which is Grant?"  "I guess he's that redfaced coon in a plug hlat," replied another, in a by no
means sotto voce tone; and this information seemingd
to be sufficient, the mob shortly afterwards  raised
a faint clieer.   The Governor of the territory now
announced to the assembly that hle had the pleasure
of introducing to them the President of the United
States; and General Grant, coming forward and
leaning over the platform of the car on wliich he
was standing, extended his hand mechlanically to be
shaken by the crowd assembled to do him honour.
Every one so disposed gave it a wring, but during
the entire operation, which la,sted for several minutes,
I never once saw his Excellency open lhis mouth.
The hand-shakling business having at length terminated outside, Colonel B. and the rest of us went into
the car, and shortly afterwards I had the honour of
being, presented to the President of the United States
and Mrs. Grant, who was travelling with him.   His
Excellency evidently thoulght it hard enough work
to do all the hand-shaking required, as he rarely said
a word to any of us.  Withl Mrs. Grant I had a fev
minutes' conversation, and on making my cone' she
was kind enoughl to express a hope that I would call
on them  at Washington.   Accuistomed to witness
the enthusiasm xwlticli invariably welcomes not only
Her Gracious Majesty, but all people of any eminience
visiting England, I was certainly astonislhed at the
quiet undemonstrative manner with whllich the Chlief
Magistrate of their nation was welcomed in America;
and  considering the President's great successes as
a soldier, as well as his abilities as a ruler, I certainly
309 
310            THE TWO AMERICAS.
expected  that some kind of ovation would have
welcomed his arrival.
Shortly after the little episode of the presidential
visit one of the officers was ordered to Nebraska on
court-martial duty. Prairie chicken shooting in this
state is celebrated; there was also a chance of getting
elk, and I willingly accepted an invitation to join
him for the trip.  Our first halt was at North Platte,
a mushroom town named after the river, which winds
along the fine alluvial bottoms of the prairie, affording
plenty of opportunities for irrigation, then an increased population provides the necessary labour.
At present agricultural enterprise appears limited to
the raising of stock, but very few years can elapse
ere thriving farms line, at any rate, the immediate
vicinity of the railway that passes through such
favourable ground.  A one-company post is situated
about a quarter of a mile from the town, and sixteen
miles farther off is Fort Macpherson, which generally
contains a more considerable garrison.
From North Platte one gets into the buffalo
country.  Close to Macpherson they are often found
in large quantities, and even near the town of North
Platte they are frequently killed But a very few
years back these prairies were covered with them,
though the accounts of slaughter which everywhere
greeted me renders it more than probable that by the
time my prophecy concerning the farms is fulfilled a
buffalo will be as rare as a dodo. At present the best
place to find themr is on the Republican, where they
still abound in herds occasionally so large that as far
as the eye can reach the plains seem alive with them. 
THE LOUP VALLEY.
Our next halt was at Grand Island, a small town
named after an island on the Platte about two miles
distant.   A  good deal of the country here seems
cultivated, but it has the same level unpicturesque
appearance that characterises for many miles each
bank of the river, and I was glad to break the spell of
monotony inseparably attached to travelling through
flat land in a railway carriage. Our party consisted
of six officers besides myself, and our destination was
Fort Hartsuff, a post on the Loup River, two days'
drive from our starting-point. In pleasant company
one can dispense with, or at any rate cease to crave
after, lovely scenery; and though our route lay along
the side of the Loup River, through, for many miles,
a rolling prairie without a tree or hill to enliven it,
we all managed to enjoy the drive immensely. The
non-shooters went in a trap by themselves, and the
shooters in a light spring waggon with a four-mule
team. We had plenty of time to take things leisurely,
and as each field of Indian corn was invariaby full of
prairie chickens we had some very pleasant sport
along the road, until we arrived at Beebys, a small
wayside farmhouse, where we halted for the night.
The houses in the Loup Valley are built in a style of
architecture quite peculiar to the locality, and only
on the island of Feenish, a small barren sandbank
on the coast of Connemara, have I ever seen anything
like them. Partly owing to the extreme severity of
the winter, and partly owing to a great paucity of
timber for building purposes, the ground selected
for the site of a house, in nine cases out of ten, is
so close to a steep hill, that by a little judicious
311 
TTHE TWO AMIERICAS.
engineeriing the occupant is enabled to burrow a room
out of the' mountain.  These lhouses, tllough small,
are comfortable enough, being cool in summer and hot
in winter, but their appearance l)as a look of orig,inalitv and  desolation not  to  be found  elsewhere.
E)cebys was no  exceptioi), and  a queerer-looking
crib I have seldom put up at.  Accommnodaition was
necessarily somewhat scanty, but we found a capital
hostess, got excellent food, and our party of seven
vere glad enourgh to settle down for the nig-lit in
a room of some twelve by fourteen feet, withl but
three beds between us, where we chatted and smoked
well into midnight.
VWhat fun it was listening to the stories my companions told of frontier life.  They had all been for
years away fronm  civilisation, and had all  passed
through the extraordinary scenes consequent oni first
settling strange lands, many hundreds of miles from
the arm of law or the reign of order.  Some of the
early episodes of life in Arizona, where a rush upon
mining had collected hordes of the greatest ruffians
on the continent into a comparatively small space,
would have afforded groundwork to a sensational
novelist for at least a dozen volumes.   One gentleman, a Mr. James Dufficld, figured prominently
among those most celebrated. for a contempt of life in
the small community that had the honour of his society.
"A man for breakfast," was to him quite an ordinary
affair, and among the desperadoes in Arizona he
was looked up to and reverenced as became so prominent a citizen. Envy, inseparable from greatness,
however, took possession of a neighbourin, ruffian,
312 
ANECDOTES OF THE FRONTIER.
whose fame as a quick shot was completely eclipsed
by the greater villainies of Duffield, and actuated by
acute jealousy he stated publicly his intention of
whipping the immortal Jlames on the very first convenienlt opportunity. News of this sudden usurpation
of authority was soon brought to Duffield, and shortly
after the rival claimants tnet in Arizona.  The new
man, well primed with whisky, swaggered loudly into
a saloon frequented by Duffield, and,  with much
bluster and many strange oaths, demanded  to bo
shown his enemy, whom he did not even know by
sight. Duffield with extreme courtesy, for he prided
himself on manners, came forward, and offered to
point out the man 1le was looking for, if the gentleman in question would come into the street, and on
his accepting the proposition, immediately shot him
down when clear of the doors; then raising his hat
to his prostrate foe, said, " ly name is Jim Duffield,
and them ere," pointing to the bleeding orifices in the
bewildered sinner, "are nmy visiting cards." After
this no one disputed his authority until his death,
which occurred somewhat suddenly about six months
afterwards.
Another story was told of a stranger, who, while
on a visit to a resident in the town, was invited by
his host to take a drink.  Having decided on the
tipple, the barman, with the peculiar grace which
belongs to professors in this particular branch of
industry, commenced manipulating the liquors. i.e..
pouring them from glass to glass, sometimes over a
shoulder, and at others from above the head, varying
the operation, however, by occasionally seizing  a
313 
314            THE TWO AlMERICAS.'
shot-gun, and presenting it at the door right across the
stranger's nose, which unfortunately appeared always
to be getting in the way.  On looking round to find
out what had caused this unusual pantomime, he just
saw a figure bob back, and again the manufacture of
the drink went on, only, however, to be interrupted
by the again sudden production of the fowling-piece,
which was always as conveniently handy as lemon
squeezers or nutmeg, grater to the presiding genius
of the bar. This comedy was gone through some
four times before the drinks were handed over; no
remarks on the subject were made, and his friend
quietly smoked his cigar as if it were an affair of no
kind of importance.  Would he have another drink?
Thank you, no.  He had particular business at home.
A letter to answer-a telegram to send-anytliing, he
mentally added, to get away from this confounded
,place. They reached the house, and were shortly
-afterwards at dinner, when suddenly the host's child,
a boy of ten years old, rushed into the room in the
highest state of glee.'"Bill got him Pa-Bill got
him," lie loudly exclaimed.  "Got him; got who?"
Why, Pa, Bill got that fellow he was trying to
shoot when you and Mr.  were having your
cocktail."  It seems that Mr. Bill, the barman had
turned the gentleman who  was shot out of the
saloon; and that individual, very drunk, had retaliated
by trying to shoot Mr. Bill, who with a shot-gun was
equally anxious to pot him.  Neither party could for
some time get a favourable chance of doing execution
u,ntil at last virtue was triumphant, and Bill the
barman reigned supreme. 
PORT~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~ HATSi!  315..II-, -I
These stories owe everything to the manner in
which they are told, and lose much by being written,
but still they serve to illustrate, both being perfectly
true, the extraordinary state of existence of the first
inl)abitants of mining towns in thle settled territories
Our next day's drive was more interesting.  Settlements were more scattered, hills began to crop up,
we constantly passed for miles close to the banks
of the river, and prairie chickens were sufficiently
numerous to keep us in active employmnent until we
reached Fort Hartsuff, just in time for dinner.
Fort Hartsuff, a small one-company post, was, when
I visited it, held by a detachment from  the 23rd
Regiment of Infantry.  It is situated a few hundred
yards from the North Fork of the Loup, and under
its protecting wing has lately sprung into existence
the few log-houses that constitute the city of Calamus..
The  Commanding-Officer, a Brevet Colonel, highly
distinguished in the late war, during which he had
been severely wounded, happened to know many of
my old friends in the ".old country,   and on the
duties of the court-martial being satisfactorily concluded, I accepted his very kind offer to remain behind
and have a hunt from his command after black-tailed..
deer and elk.
Six miles dtlistant from Fort Hartsuff, along the
banks of the river (and there are no fiarms over a
mile from them) civilisation and the latest settlement
end.  Both forks of the Loup, as well as the Loup
River itself, are somewhat singular, their breadth
being greatly in excess of their depth.   In no
other country have I seen the bottom so uniformly
315
POBT HAR,TSUPP. 
THE,1  Tr7 TO AM'I'CAS.
treacherous, and in few l)laces on either are there
any really good fords. For many miles the average
depth seldom exceeds six inches, yet, owing to quicksands and shifting bottom, no crossing is possible. In
this respect the Platte and all other rivers in the State
of Nebraska are very similar, and the few fords that
exist are generally only known to the herds of buffalo
and wild Indians who wander thlrough the country.
Forty miles to the south-east, on the South Fork of
the Loup, lies the Pawnee preservation; the Yanktons are sixty miles farther; and eighty to the northeast are planted the Santees. The Missouri lies
eighty-five miles due north through a country possessing but little water and very imperfectly known;
indeed, up to the present I fancy it has never been
surveyed, and possessing few attractions for white
settlers, is generally tenanted by small wandering
bands of Indians, who unhesitatingly scalp any small
parties of whites they may come across during their
peregrinations on this debatable land.
Once I Went on  a four days' hunt among  the
sand hills.   We  camped  each night  by  a small
water-hole and carried fuel with us.  Like waves of
the sea the hills extended far beyond our sight.
Sparse vegetation covered them, but occasionally
some  of the valleys were fairly meadowed; and as
farther to the northward the head waters of the
Elkhorn and Beaver rivers are known to flow,
I should fancy that a party sufficiently strong to be
able to afford to defy Indians might get good
hunting, as certainly the ground must be perfectly
undisturbed.  We killed black-tailed deer, antelope,
,I I q
x 
PRAIPIE I'IR~S.             317
and white-tailed deer, besides a few pin-tailed grouse,
but. met with no elk, though occasionally we  saw
some old trails.
It is hard at this season of the year to count with
any degree of certainty on finding game even in
their favourite and most-resorted-to feeding grounds.
The reason was obvious enough.  Each  night the
distant horizon was illumtinated to the slky by
gigantic prairie fires, which at times  completely
surrounded us. The long grass is now likle tinder,
and when  once  fired,  no  one  can possibly tell
where the conflagration will end.  For days, weeks,
or months the fire may still sweep unrelenting,ly
onward, destroying winter pasture, and scaring the
timid denizens of the plains to places unfrequented
and pasturages unknown. Hunting parties cannot
be too.(careful at this season both in lighlting anid
extinguishling their fires. If I heard of one case I
heard of at least twenty, where incautious men had
burned up their camps, wa-ggons, and even mules,
through  carelessly firing  the grass;  and on one
occasion I narrowly escaped being burned out myself.
In lighting our camp fire the grass about it became
ignited, and had it not been for the prompt manner
with which Buckshot, our guide, seized his coat and
beat out the flame, we most undoubtedly would have
lost our tents.  The safest plan is to dig a small
trench round the intended fireplace; the party should
then arm themselves with horsecloths to beat out
the flames in case of their extending, and carefully
burn all grass within a radius of five yards from the
fire to be, whiich will then be comparatively sale.
317
PRAIP,,IE, RIRES.
I 
THE TWO AMEiRICAS.
, Apropos of fires, lwhen  travelling in an Indian
country much precaution should be taken, particularly by small parties at all desirous of retaining
their scalps. Because a man is not afraid of Indians,
it does not at all follow that he should be such an
egregious ass as ever to give them  a chance of
getting what frontier men term " dead  wood on
him;" an expression,I take it,indicativc of the seasoned
stock of a rifle being brought into close proximity
with a sleeping white man's head.  The hunters on
such occasions should halt at least an l hour before
sunset.  The fire should be made of the driest wood
obtainable, so as not to make any perceivable smokle,
it being remembered that an Indian can see smoke
where a white man sees nothing; and after having
cooked and eaten their dinners, watered their horses,
alnd.smoked. their pipes, by which time it will be
nearly or quite dark, they should quietly march on
for a couple of miles farther, and sleep without fires
till dawn.  In very dangerous places, of course one
of the party should remain awake, but unless they
are  all very thick-headed, the mules  will make
quite enough noise on the approach of Indians to let
any average hunter know that something unusual is
up.  No  man with the slightest pretension to be
called a hunter will neglect these precautions, and,
as a general rule, in hunting parties, it is only fools
who get scalped. If any one thing more than another
"riles" a good man, it is for some. lazy idiot to say,
"I ain't afraid of Indians," as an excuse for hlis not
troubling himself with ordinary means  of safety.
No man  worth his salt is afraid of Indians, or
319 
PR      T     I..C,._.x.,.1.,,1_9                            
afraid of anything on earth (barring the tip of a
bailiff or a protested bill, and I've known  a few
plucky fellows funk them most confoundedly); but a
good hunter and brave man will never be above
circumventing, by his own caution and kniowledge of
woodcraft, the savage on whose native prairie love
of sport and adventure may send him wandering.
One more hint may be useful. If; uotwitlhstandino
these precautions, the  cheerful war-whoop  of the
noble savage should in the small hours of morning
echo round the camp, don't seize your rifle and rush
out like a stampeded mule, but seize it and crawl
out.  Youl will pretty scon know whether their little
game is-cattle or scalps, but in either case  you will
be better able to forim an opinion and decide on
further action lying oni the ground than standing
exposed to the bullets of the Red-skins probably
concealed in the neighbouriing bushes, who may after
all have raised the shout to stampede your cattle, and
who will only give a few volleys from their place of
vantage without risking a closer engagement.
During the prairie fires two or three farms near
Ilartsuff-were entirely destroyed, through their owners
neglecting to make a "fire-guard," i.e. burning with
care a belt twenty yards  wide round  their most
valuable land and houses, as a preventive to the spread
of any fires so common on the prairie. Round the fort
a good-sized guard was cleared out, and farmers who
neglect such precautions deserve to suffer for their
carelessness.
In this part of Nebraslka there are a fair sprinkling
of prairie dog towns.  Whiy the odd little beast should
319,
Pl?ArP,,I,r,.''DOGS. 
THIE TWO A.MEIE?ICAS.
be called a dog (Sper),o?-ihilts l[tlovieiazzus) I don't
know, as hle certainly is nol; a bit likle one.  Tliey
are small rodent animals of a brown colour with white
bellies, and somewhat reseml)le a guinea-pig both in
size -and sliape.  The Indians eat them, and as lhey
live prinrcipally on gr;ss and roots I dont see wlhy
they should not be pretty good.  Their burrows are
the miischlief; and many a cropper and many a curse
have they cause;t the rckless or excited sportsman
when galloping after wounded elk or buffalo.
1 was chlarmed with the numiber of tanie elk about
Hartsuff.  Some of them were a co1uple of years old,
and fed quietly with the cattle, whom they never car-ed
to leave, and were quite as tame and domesticated.
When pleased they ymakel    a little plaintive cl'y, more
melodious than the squeak of an infant, and not so
loud as the cry of a hare; but I know no sound so
touching in its sweet tonle of entreaty, or so perfect
a combination of an appeal and salutation coaxingly
blended, as the beautiful cry of a young elk.  Occasionally thley have  been  trained  to harness, and
" Buckshlot" drove a pair about Omaha.  They are,
however, liable to sudden  frights, and sometimes
startle horses in other men's traps not accustomed to
seeing them; but for sleighing in such a wild outlanldish place as this, where there atre few horses to
frigliten and no trees to run against, I cannot imagine
a more delightful team.
I had a rather close shave one day while out
shooting with Colonel C.  I had just killed a prairie
chicken, and was firing at anothler with tlhe same
barrel, when my gun burst badly.  One barrel flew
320 
A CLOSE SHAVE.
about twenty yards to my right, and fell within a few
feet of the Colonel, the other went fifteen yards to
my  left; the stock  was shattered, and the small
wooden portion which acts as a lever to the gun
opening and closing went, I kcnow not where,  as
we never saw it again. The cartridges, which I had
loaded myself, only contained three and one quarter
drams of powder. No foreign substance could
possibly have been in the barrel, as I had discharged
it not a minute previously, and of what could have
caused. such a terrible blow-up I have not the
faintest idea.* Nothing but the oldfashioned way I
have of holding my gun saved my left hand. When
an exceedingly small boy, my father (who was about
the very best all-round sportsman I ever met) taught
me to carry my left hand just touching and partly
inclosing tbe trigger-guard; explaining at the same
time that by doing so I should save my fingers in
the event of a blow-up. This habit, contracted ill
extreme youth, stuck to me through life; and though
orce tempted by a very crack pigeon shot to alter my
style, the old leaven was too strong, and instinctively
I returned to the first taught lesson, and by doing
so unquestionably saved my hand, the wooden piece
before mentioned, which nine out of tell among the
dove-slayers at Hurlingham' hold  on  to, having
been blown, I naturally presume, to "smithereens."
As it was, I only had my head slightly cut and the
forefinger of my left hand bruised.
* I discovered afterwards that the fault lay through the extractor
being improperly bored by a drunken foreman. The maker, after
inspecting the barrels, acknowledged the error as one for which he was
responsible and supplied me with a new gun.
Y
321 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
On the strength of my remarlkable escape, for I
never before even read of such an unusually bad
burst in a fowling-piece where the holder of it was
not seriously injured, I do most strongly recommend
every one to adopt my system of holding a shot-gun,
whliceh is quite as handy as any other, and infinitely 
s(Lfer;. In adopting this plan, allow the left hand to
slide close hlome to the trigger-guard during the up
swing to the shoulder.  Quick shooting is as easy
this way as any other, and, though no pigeon shot, I
have lkilled from twenty to thirty-five brace of snipe
a day in China with the old muzzleloader, and
walked all my birds up into the bargain, having no
dog.  This is quite quick enough for any sportsman,
and thlough nowadays the bursting of a gun is, I
am happy to say, more unusual than when muzzleloaders were in vogue, and excitable spirits in a hot
corner were apt to ram two charges into one barrel,
still accidenits may occur; and I must again urge, at
any rate, young men who have not contracted the
HIurlingham system to endeavour to adopt mine.
Having failed in finding elk to either the north
or east of the post during the three and four days'
trips we lhad taken, the Colonel determined on trying
a more extended journey to the north-west, on the
land lying between the North Fork of the Loup and
the River Calamus.  Our outfit comprised a strong
epringless waggon with four mules, which wvas to be
.game bag; anrid another light hunting-waggon with
ah fister team, in which we ourselves were to ride,
and which was so full of springs that at sharp turns
there was no small difficulty in sitting so lively a
322 
THE LIVELY WAGGON.
conveyance. The Colonel having built this trap
himself was exceedingly proud of the performance;
and on smooth roads with no sharp corners it really
did himt credit.
Since a certain distinguished statesman, who shall
be nameless, ruined promotion (as well as some other
things in the British army he interfered witl) by
his iion-purchase system, I think this waggon mnight
be adopted with a certain degree of benefit to the
service, and am certain it would soon become popular
with at any rate the younger officers, if their seniors
would only ride in it.
We carried tents, had led horses, and were guided
by the scout and hunter of the post-Conrad Wentwortl, better known  as Little B,ickshot.   Buckshot was quite a type of his class, and an uncommonly good type into the bargain. Rather under
the average height, but perfectly formed and wiry
as steel, about five-and-thirty, and weighing little
over ten stone, he was just the very cut of man
suited to hunt elk, Indians, or buffalo, and he knew
the tricks of the one quite as well as he did the habits
of the other. His duties as scout were varied and
numerous.  At one time he hunted Indians, and at
another game, and was pretty successful with both.
Of  course such men  have many  narrow escapes
during a life spent on the Indian frontier, and at
least one of Buckshot's will bear reciting, as illustrative of the caution and presence of mind requisite in
such a calling.
He had been on a hunt with a couple of other
men, in a country known to be  pretty hot with
Y 2
823 
TfE TWO AMERICAS.
Indians, and on camping for the night was much
annoyed to find that, during his temporary absence
to water the mules, his two companions had lighted
a large fire. Kicking off some of the blazing logs,
hle pointed out the folly of such a proceeding, and
urg,ed them to shift camp after eating, and sleep
without any fire.  The night unfortunately was cold,
and the men would not hear of moving.  They knew
as much of Indians as he did, they said, and had
frequently hunted over the ground before; one
would remain awake, and nothing was to be feared.
A strange feeling, Buckshot told me, made him
uneasy; an indescribable sense of something, he
knew not what, being about to happen prevented
his getting any rest; but permitting himself to
be overruled-indeed, his arguments were quite
unheeded- -he lay down, telling the man who
watched first to call him when the moon rose, at
which time vigilance became more necessary.   A
few hours afterwards the mules commence l snorting,
to which Buckshot directed the attention of the m'n
on watch.   He went towards them, but returned
almost immediately saying it was only a coyote;
and on his way baclk threw a lump of bark on the
fire, which immediately blazed up; and said, in reply
to the remonstrance of his more sensible companions,
"Oh, Indians be d    d! I ain't going to freeze to
death."  IHe had hardly crept under the blanket
when there was a sudden yell.  The war-whoop of
the Indians resounded in the night air, and a volley
was fired into their bed-place from the bushes.  Olie
man never spoke again; the other merely said,
324 
BUCKSHOT'S ESCAPE.
"0 Jesus;" and Buclkshot, who lay betwveen them,
rolled unhurt over his dead comrade away from the
fire. One Indian, who was close to him, he shot with
a revolver, and then tea,ring off a white handkerchief he wore round his neck, he dashed towards the
mules, bending to the ground and under cover of
some bushes.  On reaching themn he found an Indian
untying the lariat, who, in the dark mistaking him
for a brother savage, addressed hlim in the native
tongue.  Hle was on the point of sending a bullet
thlrough him when he recollected that the shot would
at once attract the others, and struck him over the
head instead with the pistol as hard as hle could let
drive.   The mule, half untied, broke  loose  and
galloped down the canon; and this saved his life.
The Indians, hearing the mule make off at such a
pace, imagined she must have been ridden, and
immediately commenced firing at her.  It was too
dark to distinguish a rider even had there been one,
and as the mule was not shot down for nearly two
minutes, Buckshot had time to get well away from
the immediate vicinity of the fatal scene.  For some
time he was undecided how to act; however, hlie at
last determined to makle for his post, some twenty
miles off.  He had no shoes, and the ground was
covered with cactus plants, which penetrated and cut
to pieces his feet, as well as the coat which he
wrapped round them.  The twenty miles, however,
had to be done, and daybreak saw him reach the
fort, unharmed by Indians, but so lacerated about
the feet that three months elapsed before he could
again put on a boot.
325 
T-UE TWO AMERICAS.
On our first day's mnarch we forded the Calamus,
and camped on the banks of the Northl Loup; and
on the second and following ones we hunted a few
miles off among the hills nearly parallel to the line
of march taken by the waggons.  The weather was
d,lightful: clear sunny d:ays with a sharp keen air,
and hard fircst at night,  sufficiently cold to freeze
water in our tents, though a small stove for wood
was burned in each of tlheml.  White-tailed deer,
antelope, grouse, and chicken fell before us, but still
no signs of elk. We had a capital cook, a German,
who dressed venison wonderfully;so we shot, and
ate, and prayed for better luck in future. At this
season of the year elk are always in bands, and are
consequently not easy to find, owing to their not
being scattered; and in such a country as we were
hunting in, consisting as it did of innumerable hills
and canons, a large band might easily be passed
without detection, unless, of course, one hit upon
their trail.
At  last the  happy  day  arrived.   Early one
morning Buckshot came on the trail of a large band
of elk, and soon after we were in hot pursuit. The
wind was in  the right direction, and ablout three
lhours' riding, following carefully the trail, brought
us in sight of the band, who were entirely unsuspicious of the slightest danger. Picketing our horses,
we now commenced the stalk on foot, and the ground
being favourable got within forty yards of where
they were making their -aid-day halt. It would be
difficult to imaigine a more perfectly beautiful sight.
I should fancy about eighty of these magnificent
'an 2 to' 
A LARGE BAND OF ELK.
animals, of different  ages, sexes, and sizes, were in
the band. Some were lying down, and others quietly
feeding. Our position was on the brow of a small
steep sand-ridge, thickly covered with long grass at
the top, through which we could watch quietly the
movements of the band without a chance of being
discovered. A good stiff breeze blowing directly
from them to us prevented the possibility of their
getting our wind, and there being no danger of
anything alarming them, we  lay for at least five
minutes perfectly still, to admire so grand a sight,
and get quite cool and collected after our long stalk.
How poor Landseer or Rosa Bonhlleur would have
enjoyed such a sight! Of all animal creation, I
consider the elk is beyond question the handsomest.
The bulls were full maned, and almost black about
the neck and muzzle. Some of the old ones had
grand heads, but the greatest number were about
one and two years old, and with antlers not fully
grown.   The cows were very handsome, and in
splendid condition; and there were many this year's
calves, as graceful and pretty as they well could be.
Picking out our favourites, we now got ready. I
selected a fine lull, who was certainly not over fifty
yards from where I lay, and taking a deliberate aim,
sent a bullet directly through his heart. Buckshot's
rifle missed fire, and the Colonel knocked over a
grand old bull, who was sent kicking to the ground.
We then blazed away at the nearest elk, and knocked
over three others. In the excitement of firing at
the retreating elk, we paid no attention to those
already fallen, and were disgusted and surprised to
27 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
see the Colonel's first love, who was the finest of the
lot, trotting steadily away and well out of range.
Cutting the throats of the fallen ones as quickly as
possible, we mounted and galloped after the band,
who, having neither seen nor smelt us, were by no
means greatly alarmed; and after a sharp spin of
some four miles, keeping well to leeward and out
of sight, again struck the band.  This time we got
within about a hundred yards from where they were
quietly feeding at a walk, and once more did considerable execution. It was now getting late; we
had as much meat as the waggon could carry, and
though we might certainly have struck the band a
third time, as they had never either seen or smelt
us, we tempered mercy with prudence and rode back
to camp.
It is surprising what a numbl)er of elk get off, after
hlaving been apparently mortally wounded, and considered even beyond the assistance of another shot.
Lieutenant H. once shot a fine bull who rolled
over, like the Colonel's had done, seemingly in
articulo m)ortis.  He had on the occasion a new knife,
whichl he was most anxious to christen, and laying
down his discharged rifle he advanced to flesh his
weapon. The elk, however, appeared to object to be
operated on, and kicked lustily whenever  he apI)roaclhed to put his charitable project into execution.
]Now an elk's kick is worse than one from an unshod
horse, and the Lieutenant, being well aware of his
danger, dodged about from side to side in a decidedly
cautious and wary manner, trying vainly to get a
safe chance. This game lasted over two minutes, at
328   
-~ ~~NTDEDYT                       2
the end of which time the animal, disg,usted with the
clumsy efforts being made to send him to a better
world, concluded to remain a little longer in this
one, and, quietly jumping up, galloped off and was
never seen again.
A still more amusing incident happened to Buckshot.   He also one day  knockel over a fine bull
who fell apparently quite dead, as he pitched right
over on getting the shot, with one of his fore-legs
entangled mid his branching  antlers.   Buckshot
came up to cut his throat, and to save the trouble of
picketing his pony, tied the end of the lariat to the
elk's hind-leg, while he dragged the body round to
a  more  convenient  position  for performing the
obsequies.   The movement cleared the entangled
limb, and the elk, who was only "creased," i.e. shot
through the thick part of the neck and momentarily
paralysed, jumped up, and, with the pony fastened to
him, galloped off as strong and well as if he had
never been even touched. The sight must have been
as ludicrous a one as well could be imagined.  Buckshot raced after the pair, shouting, "Whoa, whoa,
Billy!" not daring to fire lest he should hurt his
pony.   How it would have ended one can hardly
tell, had the elk, instead of keeping up the gallop,
not foolishly turned round tofight the pony, whom
he could not stand any longer dragging at his heels,
while still within easy range of the scout's rifle.
The movement was favourable.  This time a bullet
sped more true, and the poor elk really tumbled over
dead.
On going with the waggon next day to bring our
329
NOT DEAD YET. 
THEE TWO AMERICAS.
game to camp we found a most unusual thing had
happened. A large pack of wolves had been before
us and eaten all up but five, and some of these were
also partially torn.  None of our party had ever
known  an instance of these brutes touching game
the first night before, and though there were any
quantity of them in the Rocky Mountains, and we
often left game out when killed far from camp late
in the evening, I never knew it occur.
We got some very pretty deer-shooting occasionally. Once I remember leaving a long and very
interesting stalk  after three  white-tailed fellows
with Buckshot.   It lasted over an  hour on not
particularly easy ground; however, we came within
range at last and killed them all.
By this time we had loaded our large four-mule
waggon with ell, deer, and antelope, until it would
not hold another beast. We had eaten parts of
others, and  had  varied  the  entertainment with
duck, pin-tailed grouse, and prairie chliclens, so
nothing was left us but to return to Hartsuff, lest
our meat from being so long packed should go bad.
On our way we saw any quantity of geese, and
the river at times appeared alive with wild-fowl.
On starting for our hunt, I think I mentioned the
lively nature of the Colonel's pet waggon, and on the
return journey it gave us a sample of what, under
unfavourable circumstances, it really could do.
We had successfully forded the river, and were
trotting quietly down a rather awkward ravine with
a stream running at the bottom of it, when something
startled our team, and to our horror away they
330 
A COM,PLETE SPILL.
stretched at a gallop down the hill; a corner was
turned rather sharply, and in a moment all save the
Colonel were sent flying. The driver and a sergeant
on the box-seat first shot into the air; I flew about
three yards over where they lay sprawling, pitching
on my  shoulder; and Buckshot, who was on the
back seat, being the lightest of the party, took a spin
over all of us, a shower of rifles and guns coming
with him.   The waggon, which had never fallen
over, then riighted itself, and the mules, with the
reins hanging at their heels, took their now greatly
diminished load over the little stream in their stride,
the waggon jumping like one quite accustomed to
such cross-country usage.   Up  the opposite  hill
they then tore madly, the Colonel sticking to his post
like a man, and trying, though unsuccessfully, to
fish.up the reins.   This pace was, however,  too
good to last, and on reaching the top the solitary
inmate jumped out, and, running across a small place
where the  road made  a turn, stopped the team
without further damage.
I have seen a good many fellows upset, but never
witnessed such a complete clearance before without
the trap coming to grief also. I had been riding all
the morning; nay spurs were still on when the spill
took place, and to give an idea of the force with
which we must have been shot out, one of my strong
hunting spurs was torn off my boot and left in the
waggon, yet, notwithstanding this very considerable
drag, I was sent spinning through the air well clear of
the wheels.  The inventor-a true Hibernian-was
delighted with the agility displayed by his favourite
331 
THE TWVO AMER?ICAS.
trap, and fervently expressed his opinion that not
another vehicle in the two Americas was capable of
such a performance.  I really believe he was right;
but it would be a sweet thing for a "Seniority
Corps," and the service might adopt it with advantage. 
This little episode wound up our hunt, and we
shortly after arrived safely at Fort IHartsuff. We
had enjoyed a very jolly trip, had somne really fine
shooting, and notwithstanding the eccentricity of
the lively waggon, and the several attemnpts it made
to break our necks, I cannot thank my friend the
Colonel too much for all the kindness and hospitality
I received at his hands, and the "good time" I had
at Hartsuff.
After our hunt the weather got decidedly cold.
Once or twice the thermometer went several degrees
below zero, and occasionally a keen icy wind struck
across the prairie which cut into one's bones like
a knife. Life under canvas, with one's cattle picketed
out, is not under such circumstances generally very
pleasant, and once more I got ready for a start east.
332 
LEAIVE FORT HARTSUFF.
CIIA PTER XII.
Leave Fort Hartsuf - Rapid growth of Western towns -Omaha —
Chicago -Hotel life in America-Canada - Toronto - Sleighing Niagara- Montreal-Summing-up —A chivalrous American-Hos pitality of the U.S.A. Officers-Tale of a snuff-box-The end.
ON the 28th of November, 1875, we left Fort
Hartsuff. A considerable amount of snow covered
the prairie, and large masses of ice floated down the
Loup, chasing each other over tl.e shallow rapids
finally t) be chleclked and piled up in a large heap at
the first still and frozen pool of water below them.
On this occasion, I am happy to say, the lively
wacgon was not brought into requisition, and comfortably ensconced in a well-hung and cosily-covered
carriage, we gazed over the desolate-looking plain,
and watched the flocks of wild geese and ducks, who
appeared intent on migrating  to warminer climates.
Even the wolves seemned tamed by the cold, as at
times they waited on the road until almost within
pistol, -ot, and Buckshot more than once handled
his revolver, and got ready to fire.
At Beebys we halted for the night, getting, however, a little more room than on the occasion of my
former visit; and after another cold drive the following day, the piercing wind being far more responsible
-OD 3 3 
TEE TWO AMERICAS.
for our discomfort than any particular lowness of
temperature, the thermometer being only 4~ below
zero, we arrived in the evening at Grand Island,
where we put up for the night at the railway station
hotel.
The rapidity of growth peculiar to these Western
towns is very striking to an Englishman accustomed
to the slow progression of our rural districts. How
very few villages or small towns that we remember
in our early youth that are not still either villages
or small towns, now that old age has bent our
frames, and remorseless Time stands watching the
few remaining grains of sand still to run before he
mows us over.  IHere they never cease to grow.
Grand Island lad increased considerably even during
my short hunt on the Loup. A new hotel of very
considerable dimensions was about to be opened,
several fresh edifices had commenced making their
appearance, and the bustle and activity displayed
everywhere showed that this little town was no
I
exception to the general rule of rapid progression so
noticeable all over the West.
An uninteresting railway journey brought us to
Omaha, where we arrived on Thanksgiving Day, and
of course found everything shut 11p and stupid; the
inhabitants being too busily engaged in either eating
or getting ready to eat turkeys to think of opening
their shops or anything else. It is a disagreeable
time for a traveller to arrive in a strange town, and
I advise others to avoid doing so.
There is nothing of any' particular interest in or
about Omaha.  It is at prcsenit the headquarters of
334 
C-CGO                   3
the army for service on the nearest Indian frontier,
or the military department of the Platte, and is built
on the western bank of the Missouri, which was
almost frozen over when we got there. During my
stay a rifle match formed one of the holiday attractions.  Major iHeniry Fulton, the champion shot of
the late American team, was one of the competitors,
and put, fifteen shots in succession into either centre
or bull's-eye, at a range of eight hundred yards, and
during a by no means favourable day either. It was
magnificent shooting, but I should very much like
to see his practice at antelope, judging his own
distance. In 1854 a few squatters settled on the
site of the present town. In 1870 the construction
of tlte Omaha and South Wrestern Railway gave a
fiesh impetus to what was even then a fast-increasing
city, and-now a population of over 20,000 inhabit the
state capital of Nebraskla, with every likelihood of
atta.iniing far 1hig,rher num}ers.  Some of the public
buildings are creditable, still the town is not a
particularly attractive one to visitors unconnected
with it by business, and I was not sorry when a run
of little over twenty-four hours farther east brought
us to Chicago.
/Of all the extraordinary towns in the United
States, Chicago may certainly be looked upon as
being the most so. Twice almost entir-ely destroyed
by fire within an unprecedentedly short space of tinme,
it has on each occasion risen like a Phoenix from its
ashes, invariably improved by the fiery ordeal.  If it
continues burning and improving at the same rate,
there is no telling to what pitch of magnificence it
335
CHICA GO.  
THE TWO AMERICAS.
may not ultimately arrive. It is built on the shore
of Lake Michigan, one ofthe huge inland seas of fresh
water for which this continent is famous, and owes
much of its prosperity to its favourable situation.
The last great fire was during the Fall of 1871, when
the town was almost entirely destroyed.  It is now
quite restored.   The streets are well paved and
broad (very  different in this respect from  New
York, which without any except ion I consider the
most disgracefully paved town I have ever visited),
the business houses are large stone buildings and
very handsome, and the town is of immense
extent and still growing.  A  charming  drive in
course of construction along the border of the lake
and a small parkl outside the town are worth looking
at. The municipality have every reason to be proud
of the city waterwioks, the  entire supply being
obtained from Lake Michigan, about a mile and a
half out from its banks, whence by means of two
immensely powerfil engines, the largest I believe in
America, a constant and liberal flow of deliciously
pure water is conducted over the town.  We put up
at the Palmer House lHotel, without any exception
the finest, best conducted, and most comfortable one
I ever saw in America.  The reception-rooms we,e
almost regal; the bedrooms, were simply the perfc —
tion of comfort, each having a handsome marble bath
in a small chamber attached to them; the cuisine was
excellent and liberal; attendance the best I have ever
seen; and the charges not a bit higher than the tariff
at any ordinary first-class house.
IHotel life in America is an institution peculiar to
336 
HOTEL LIFE IN AMERICA.
the country.  Owing to the difficlity in the first place
of obtaining good servants, and the uncertainty of
keeping them afterwards for any length of time, when
the great fundamental principles of all republics
(liberty  and  equality)  firmly  take  root,  many
families reside entirely in hotels.   These people
therefore become a fixed income to the proprietors,
and all possible means are adopted to attract them
to their establishments, and to retain them afterwards. Year after year families inhabit the same
suite of apartments, only too glad to escape the
expense and annoyance of housekeeping in a country
where, notwithstanding the theoretical advantages
of equality, very few care about introducing it to
social life, or tolerating it among their domestics.
Chicago is well supplied with newspapers; indeed,
the amount of this class of literature all through the
United  States is very remarkable.  The  smnallest
towns have a "Daily," and even Calamiis City, which
only consisted of a few miserable log huls, sported a
printing-press and a, weeklly paper. The Chicago
style is somewhat unique, if not absolutely bewildering. For instance, in one of the leading journals,
dated Novenmber 27th, I noticed an article containing
an account of a recent execution, which, headed in
large black letters, announced the following startling
intelligence: "Jerked to Jesus"; "Four Senegarnbian butchers were wafted to heaven yesterday from
scaffolds"; "Four  of them died  with  the sweet
confidence of pious people," &c. &c. &c. Some of
the other articles were well written, and I was
astonished at seeing such indecent vulgarity in what
z
337 
THIE TWO AMERICAS.
was in other respects a clever and well-conducted
newspaper.
From Chicago we went to Toronto in Canada, our
luggage undergoing a slight inspection at Sarnia, a
small town on the fi'ontier. I was surprised at the'
marked difference in the aspect of the country and
appearance of the people, and could hardly have
believed it possible that the distinction between two
races of sinilar origin and language should have
been so decided. The farms were smaller, the fields
and inclosures smaller, and the people  more intensely English in appearance, speech, and costume.
The refreshments at  the  railway  stations  were
cheaper, but savoured more of the " stale bun" and
"scalding soup" system we are cursed with at home,
than the liberal tariff that generally eharacterises
American tables similarly situated; and though
delighted with the unmistakable evidences of English
nationality in other respects, we did not find the
feedintg a change for the better, and occasionally
pined for the well-supplied tables of Lathrop and
Merced in the " Far West."
Toronto is a handsome well-built town, situated on
the shore of Lake Ontario. Some of the public
buildings are fine, and the university is exceedingly
beautiful and well worth a visit. We put up at the
Queen's Hotel, and though it did not rival the
Palmer House in magnificence, it certainly deserves
a word of praise as being one of the most comfortable houses I ever stayed at, and far superior to
anything at Montreal or other parts of Canada we
passed through.
338 
TORONTO.      339~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I find myself now getting on such a well-worn and
beaten track that I am disinclined to bore my reader
with an account of places he in all probability knows
more of than I do, and shall therefore touch but very
lightly on the few remaining towns we visit before I
cease my wanderings. King Streetis the fashionable
promenade. A heavy fall of'snow and an unusually
"cold snap," as it was termed, had arranged everything for sleighing, and every vehicle was at once
called into requisition and every waggon  put on
sliders.  Nothing could be gayer than the scene in
the principal streets during the fashionable hours of
from three to five, when  all the well-appointed
equipages turned out with handsome fur robes
trailing far behind them, almost touching the snow.
Sleighing is certainly a delightful amusement, and
if a man be fortunate in having a crack tea(m and a
pleasant companion of the opposite sex, I am unaware
of any sort of driving thlat can touch it.  Tl,e calm,
cold, clear atmosphere, the tinkling of the bells, the
pure snow, the warm robes, and the pretty girl —all
form a combination which, added to the smooth
gliding action of the sleigh, rendersthe experience
one often to be longed for when snow and sleighs
can only be thought of among the long-departed and
never to be recalled pleasures of the past.
The theatre was pretty good.  I went one night a-d
saw a wretched play badly acted, but the interior of
the building was well got up and of larger size than
those of most provincial towns in England of more
than double the population.
From Toronto I went to Niagara, and find some
z2
339
TORONTO. 
THE TWO AIMERICAS.
difficulty in analysing my feelings in connection with
its extraordinary and wonderful Falls. My first sense
was one of disappointment. From earliest childhood
I had heard and read such gushing accounts that
reality naturally fell short of expectation; but after a
time their magnificence seems to grow on one, and
eventually their marvellous grandeur unrolls  and
steadily impresses itself most thorouighly. What I
had expected( to see, I am sure I don't know; but
with such food for fancy as one gets in Niagara, I
imagine the first impression of many must be that of
disappointment at the first sight.
The pleasures of Niagara are, to me at any rate,
dreadfully marred by its surroundings. Guides,
touts, photographers, vendors of curiosities, Jewesses
and harpies of every description abound. All kinds
of Cockney ridiculous names are given to every
point, rock, or extra spray of water. You are besieged
at every step with solicitations to purchase rubbish.
A perpetual demand for fifty cents seems to be
the" current" topic of conversation  If you look over
a rock, it is fifty cents; if you look up one, it is fifty
cents; for everything you do, it is the same price;
and I was rather surprised when a stranger to me
said, "Good morning," that he did not charge fifty
cents for his civ:lity.  Photographers chase you witl
a prepared plate for a Niagara in the background.
Pertinacious anid brazen-faced Jewesses insist on your
shelling out dollars, and show unmitigated disgust if
your expenditure falls short of their expectations;
and when, to escape from these nuisances and enjoy
a solitary weed, I found what I imagined to be
340 
NIAGARA.               341
a secluded spot on Goat Island, before I had been
allowed a quarter of an hour's quiet enjoyment of the
truly magnificent rapids, I heard a voice from
behind request me to remain perfectly still, and that
he would shoot me in twenty seconds, and on turning
round found a ruffian quietly " covering me" from
under a cloth-covered camera.
Of course lots of people like all this. They enjoy
their guide's twaddle. They purchase Indian curiosities (manufactured on the spot) with sweet confidence as to the genuine nature of the commodity.
They get photographed at every possible opportunity, tl)e picture being very much of themselves and
very little of Niagara.  If it were not so, the nuisance
would cease to exist; but with it all, they certainly
spoil at least three-fourths of the pleasures an
ordinary mortal can derive from one of the most
marvellous sights in nature.  One sees and becomes
impressed, but enjoyment is out of the question.
As well talk of enjoying Nilsson or Patti, in their
favourite and most exquisitely rendered passages of
Opera, with a monkey chattering in the stall behind
you; playing a salmon with an enthusiastic crowd
criticising your actions (I went through that experience once on Galway bridge, and did not like it);
or enjoying a cref's most sublime effort, ten minutes
being allowed for the trial.
I hardly know what to recommend, as escaping these
bores altogether is impossible. I can only suggest that
the best plan is to see the Falls during the day, and
enjoy them at sunrise, before the tormentors are out of
bed. - Such early rising is a little rough perhaps on some
341
NIAGARA. 
I
THE TWO AMEF RICAS.
people, but nevertheless it is one;s only chlance, and
it will repay them amply. The majesty of Niagara
is stupendous, but cannot make itself properly felt
with a running accompaniment of photographers
and touts.
From Niagara I went to Montreal, a curious old
town with a large population of French extraction,
who still retain the language. The St. Lawrence
was frozen across, and I came in for an exhibition of
some of the wonderfill skating Canadians of both
sexes are celebrated for. Not being provided with
letters, and not knowing a soul in the town, there
was not much to be done in the way of amusement.
I heard a good many people regret the loss of the
English regiments, and friom the enthusiasm displayed at the parade of a volunteer corps I can
quite imagine what a "good time" the regiments
fortunate enough to have been quartered here in the
old days must have had.
There is a wild natural park overhanging the town;
rocks, trees, and their surroundings being quite il' a
state of primeval simplicity. From some points of it
a most exquisite view is to be obtained of the surrounding country. For many miles the River St. Lawrence
winds away in the distance, a lofty range of mountains
in the States being also occasionally visible.  There
are not many views better worth seeing, and on a
fine day it is quite enchanting. Some of the public
buildings and a few private residences are handsome
well-built stone edifices. The streets were well laid
o~:t, and as the weather was cold, bright, and clear,
gaily-painted sleighs, with their musical accompani
342 
SUMMING UP.             343
ment of bells outside and "belles" in, enlivened the
scene, and gave an air of festivity to all about them.
After a few days devoted to sight-seeing, an
account of which I will mercifully spare my ieader,
I started for New York, and after an uninteresting
railway journey, and a rigid examination of luggage
by the custom-house authorities, arrived safely at the
great commercial capital of the United States.
Here as an author my wanderings end. Washington, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Richmond, Boston, and
all the great eastern cities are far too well known to
require description, and are only interesting to the
European as being the means of giving  him  an
insight to Ameiican society, their manners,  their
customs, and the working of their municipalities and
legislature.
On these few topics I shall lightly touch ere concliding, and having had ample opportunities and
facilities for judging of each, will be at any rate
impartial in my "summing up" of the people among
whom I have been living for over a year, and from
whom  I  have experienced great and unvarying
kindness and hospitality.
Unmitigated flattery would be a sorry recompense
for such treatment, and I even confess, but without
departing from  my "platform"  as  ail  impartial
witness, that holding political views diametrically
opposite to anything republican, it has almost beeit
a source of satisfaction to find, on inspection, inquiry,
and diligent investigation, that the institutions of the
country are very far indeed from being perfect; that
bribery and corruption is reported common in both
343
SUM711ING UP. 
THE TWO AMIERICAS.
Senate and Congress; and that the suppositious
virtues which, according to the reiterated statements
of our leading Radicals in England, appertain to all
republics in general, and the United States in particular, only really exist in their own over-imaginative
and lighlly-wronght conceptions of a modern Utopia
based on republican principles.
While at Washington I witnessed the impeachment of a Cabinet Minister (General Belknap) for
selling Government appointments.  Another miember
of the same council was roundly accused by some of
the leading newspapers of having in various ways
benefited himself to a very large amount at the
expense of his country, and though we are informed
by Scripture "that a little leaven leaveneth the whole,"
the undoubted high personal character of Mr. Fish,
the Secretary of State, one of the few men of social
rank and fortune who have entered the political
arena, seemed utterly unable to leaven the immediate
associates he was brought directly into contact with.
That corruption to a very lamentable extent exists
in the country, I have not only the personal statements of very many prominent and distinguished
citizens, who deplore an evil they are unable to
remedy, but also the accounts given almost daily
in the public press, whole columns of which are filled
with histories of the swindling operations of what
they felicitously term "rings," on the principle, I
suppose, of there being "no end" to them.  There
are Indian rings, whisky rings, municipal rings "a
la Boss Tweed," and every conceivable ring that can
lbe thought of; but none with the ring of true metal.
344 
SUMMING UP.            845
Universal suffrage, unaccompanied by either an
educational or property qualification, is the fundamental root of all these evils;  and to universal
suffrage all the existing ills, in all existing republics,
distinctly can be traced.
No one but a mule in stupid obstinate perversity,
or a mole in blindness, can fail to see these glaring
evils in the Constitution, or can help noticing that, in
consequence of them, men of the highest social and
hereditary rank are conspicuous by their absence
from the legislative councils of their country; and
yet, after a few weekls' sojourn in the States, our
Radical members of Parliament come back bursting
with false information, and give vent, ill lectures and
addresses to confiding and credulous constituencies,
to their ill-conceived ideas of republican purity.
Some people are possibly misled by results, and
unintentionally draw false conclusions from apparent
facts. This is a mistake a superficial observer is
very liable to fall into, and merely looking at the
growing prosperity and wealth of the "Far West"
as an  accomplished and bona fide realization, he is
apt, having republican proclivities, to ascribe the
cause to an adoption of his political views, of which
mistake a very slight study of the true reason would
soon disabuse him.
The future greatness of the American nation will
undoubtedly  come from  the West;  and, without
having been  West, an individual, no matter how
far-sighted and deep-thinking he may imagine himself, will fail, not only in grasping whence the real
wealth and prosperity of the nation must eventually
945
SUMMING UP. 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
be derived, but where also already much of the
primary causes of success and contentment exist in a
degree not to be met with in Europe.
A boundless extent of territory teeming with agricultural and mineral wealth is still entirely unoccupied. Crop after crop can be raised for many
years to come of the very finest grain, simply by
scratching the earth and dropping in seed. None of
the artificial resources known to older and impoverished lands are here ever thought of, and superphosplhates and guano, bone-dust and top-dressing,
are subjects entirely unknown and seldom even read
about.  The mineral wealth of the Pacific States is
simply incalculable, and will assuredly cause a revolution in the value of precious metals which will make
itself felt with startling severity ere very many
year   go  by.   For  years to come the Western
emigrant will be entitled to claim his one hundred
and sixty acres of land; and, undoubtedly, none but
the idle, the vicious, or the infirm need suffer poverty
in America. There is no country in the world whose
prospects of future greatness are so apparent to the
meanest comprehension, but to ascribe such prosperity
to the peculiar republican form of its government, or
to the effect of universal suffrage, is as ridiculous as to
suppose the worn and impoverished land of Europe,
decrepit from the hundreds of years of close and
exhaustive agriculture to be simply the effect of
monarchical institutions or hereditary legislation.
Had the Americans that strong sentiment of loyalty
to a reigning family which happily pervades most
European countries, it would serve as a cement to
346 
SU'iL7IUNG UP.                347
bind them together; but lacking this adhesive quality,
and being governed entirely by individual interests,
each unit in the community feeling an inward consciousness that ill luck alone prevents his being Chief
Magistrate, a position that he feels eminently fitted
to adorn, the conflicting interests of east and west
must eventually rise to -the surf-ice, and though
nothing seems likely to disturb the Union for at
least another seventy years, my ghost will be much
surprised if it ever witnesses another Centennial.
The reply to my remarks, from a native, I know
well enough, would be that I misjudged entirely;
and that their sentiment to the Union was as strong
in every degree as ours to a monarch.  He would
refer with pride to the late civil wai, and point to
the lives laid down, and treasure expended, in a
cause far which he also would possibly be willing to
die, forgetting, or at any rate losing sight of, the fact,
that lives and money were being spent quite as
recklessly by the Confederates to abolish the Union
he so fondly loves, and that the wealth and intellect
of the country were at one time pretty equally
divided in the matter of that sentiment which most
Americans now imagine pervaded the entire nation.
To prove that my ideas are not singular or even
original, I may  as well quote the words of  the
celebrated "Fisher Ames," an American of nmuch
eminence, who, living as far back as the revolutionary
period, saw even then the growing tendency of the
rapidly thriving young Republic.  While speaking
of the future state of the country, his prophecy
ran as follows: "We will eventually become too
347
S UILUI.LY G UP. 
THEE TWO AMERICAS.
expansive for Union, too sordid for patriotism, and
too democratic for liberty." How far these warnings
have proved correct, or are likely to prove so, the
reader can judge for himself; but I certainly have
found nothing myself in the republican institutions of
the Two Americas to make me wish to see such a
form of government introduced among us in England.
It is a positive relief; after having found so many
faults in the constitution, to be able to allude  to
other  American traits of which  one  can  speak
nothing but the highest praise.
In no part of the world, England or anywhere
else, will a traveller meet with more uniform kindness and hospitality. With all classes it is precisely
the same. During my wanderings I was brought
into close contact with every description of person;
the rich, the poor, the cultivated, and the rough;
but never once iii any part of the United States, in
the meanest ranche or most primitive mining camp,
did I ever experience the slightest discourtesy or
lack of kindness. Often and often perfect strangers
put themselves out of their way to do me a good
turn, and nothing can ever  obliterate from  my
memory the remembrance of the unmitigated goodnature, hospitality, and friendliness of feeling I have
invariably experienced.
That such a feeling should exist many  people
who  have merely read the occasional bitter outpourings of the American press, when  the "Bird
of Freedom" is on one of his lofty flights, will
hardly conceive possible; but, notwithstanding their
occasional caustic speeches, there is a deep under
348, 
A CHIVALROUS A3IERICANlr.
current of goodwill towards all Englishmen, which
only requires "circumstance" to bring out in its
brightest and most genuine character.
It may not be out of place while on this topic to
allude to my first experience of this good feeling,
which I assert that all true Americans (not Fenian
Irish counterfeits) entertain in their hearts for us;
and I use the words "in their hearts" advisedly,
as occasionally the surface outpourings of tlhe nation
very much belie their innermost sentiments, and a
momentary bitterness of speech is only like the
hasty quarrel of really dear friends, who each may
be ashamed afterwards of a sharpness of temper
which betrayed them both into expressions which
neither seriously meant.
In June 1859 I was present at an attack on the
Ta-ku Eorts at the mouth of the Pei-ho River in the
north of China, an affair which I regret to say
terminated ill our receiving a very severe repulse.
In a most disagreeably short space of time three
gun-boats and two despatch vessels were sunkl by the
severity of the enemy's fire. Admiral Sir James
Hope; who commanded,. was seriously wounded, and
after about three hours' further sharp practice all the
gun-boats were so knocked about and hard pressed
in engaging the enemy's batteries, that hardly any
were available for towing the" storming party" (who
were waiting. in junks anchored off the forts out of
range) into action.
At this juncture the captain of an American frigate
Commodore Tattenal -volunteered his services.
During the very severest part of tlhe action he pulled
349 
THE TWO AMERICAS.
in his galley to visit Admiral HIope, who had hoisted
his flag on one of the gun-boats, to express sympathy
and volunteer assistance; and not to be behindhand
in good feeling, his boat's crew, during their chief's
visit to the cabin (where the Admiral lay wounded),
improved the occasion by "falling in" at one of the
guns and fighting it until he returned on deck.
Commodore Tattenal then permitted a small steamer
under his command to assist in towing the boats containing the storming party into action, an affair
which I came out of with a bullet through my leg,
my clothes cut to ribbons by others, and considering
myself exceedingly lucky in getting off so cheaply,
as nineteen men out of my small company of fifty-three
were either killed or wounded. In proportion to the
numbers engaged, our "butcher's bill" was one of
the severest on record, and on leaving our Admiral's
ship the American Commodore had  his coxwain,
who was sitting beside him, cut in two by a round
shot.
I make particular mention of the severity of the
fire, as I wish to show that Commodore Tattenal's
courtesy was no mere holiday form, but thie deep-seated,
true, chivalrous feeling which men of the same blood
should always entertain. He had no earthly necessity
to do what he did. His nation was at peace with
China.  He risked his commission and whole prospects
in the service by his undiplomatic behaviour, and all
-to use his own memorable words-because "blood
was thicker than water."  So may it ever prove, and
may the English-speaking races always entertain,
irrespective of differences in government, the same
350 
SUl'rMIN(} UP.                35]
undercurrent of good feeling so nobly exhibited by
Tattenal and his mnen at the Taku Forts.
The more one sees of America, both of people and
country, the better one likes both; and I trust that
the present Centennial Exhibition now going on at
Philadelphia nmay be the means of inducing many
Englishmen to travel through the States, and return
with that feeling of friendship and goodwill for their
American cousins which propinquity with them is
certain to engender.
Should any visit America after reading these
lines, let me advise them to pay particular attention to
three subtjects-i.e. Canvas-back ducks, Terrapin, and
Madeira. This to the uninitiated is a hint worth
remembering.
In the streets of New  York I have seen more
pretty girls, in a shorter space of time, than in any
other town I have been in.  Nearly all have beautiful
hands and feet, and dress both expensively and well,
though there is rather too imuch of a display of
diamond earrings and jewelry in the daytime to
constitute what we should consider exactly consistent
with "good foirm" in El-gland.  It must surprise a
stranger, the first fine Sunday he walks down the
Fifth Avenue, to see not only so many pretty women,
but the extraordinary number of undoubtedly expensive costumes all of them appear in.  This extravagance of apparel is by no means confined to a
particular "set," and where on earth so many people
find the money to dress in the way they do is to me
a perfect wonder.  I don't think the men are so
extravagant as we are, and as the greater portion of
351
s UMMING UP. 
TH7E TWO -A3IERICAS.
them occupy all their time,in making money, they
seem to derive their chief pleasure and satisfaction
from seeing their wives and daughters spending it,
having neither time nor inclination for such frivolities
themselves.  A few among them buy pictures, but as
tlhey have neither expensive country-houses with
estates to keep up, grouse moors and deer forests to
pay for, nor even amuse themselves by maintaining
large studs of horses to chase the "wily fox," their
personal expenditure is necessarily comparatively
small, while their generosity to their wives naturally
becomes proportionately greater than that of poor
beggars living under "effete monarchies," who have
to pay like fuin for amusements that can be had for
nothing in America. No wonder American ladies
proudly and emphatically declare that their men are
the best husbands in the world.
The jeunesse doree of New  Yorkl endeavour to
assume English  manners,  and  do so  with only
indifferent success.   This is, however, a defect in
their education that time will gradually correct; and I
daresay, with constant study, in a few more gene'ations, they may become nearly as affected as the
class at home they so vainly attempt to imitate.
American  society  is sociable,  charming,  and
delightful; and experience soon tells one that the
shoddy representatives so frequently met while travelling in Europe are but very poorspecimens of the nicest
people in New Yorkl, Washlington, or the " Hub."
I do not mean to say that tlhe power of money is
not occasionally felt.  A yacht and four-in-hand are
as powerful passports to society in New York as tho
352 
U.S.A. OFFICERS.
same appendages most unquestionably are in London,
and  a wealthy snob is as attractive  to fortunehunting  mothers in  one  town  as  in the other.
Shoddy, however, to be tolerated, must be polished,
and the specimens one occasionally meets with in
New York are less objectionable than members of
the same fraternity abroad.
In the Western States money reigns supreme, nor
is society particular as to how it was come by, so
long as thie possessor has a decent cook and is liberal
in dinners. Two of the elite of San Francisco kept a
fifthl-rate drinking saloon before a lucky mining speculation raised them in the scale of social importance,
and their partners, who are equally distinguished for
enormous wealth, commenced life in an even less
ostentatious manner. The L-oston people consider intellectual qualifications a necessity and the Washlingtonians some kind of raink, either political or diplomatic; but any English gentleman is certain to get
on well with all of them, and will like the people.
Of all the good fellows in the world I really believe
the U.S.A. officers are about the best.  It is simply
impossible to do them justice in describing their kindness and hospitality to any one bringing letters of
introduction who may visit their posts. No trouble
is too great if they can only give you a "good time,"
and no inconvenience you can possibly put them to is
considered of the slightest moment if they can add
to your comfort or enjoyment. They are all highly
educated, the course at West Point being one of the
most thorough a man can receive, and among the
many pleasant recollections I calry withl  me, there
2A
i,El 1.
a ii) 
THIE TWO ATIERICAS.
will be none more highly valued than the remembrance of davs and niglits, in camp  and prairie,
passed in their society.
During the early part of the winter, in New York,
I constantly met General George A. Custer of the
United States Army.  IHe was a fine, dashing, gallant
officer, with a splendid record, earned in many a wellcontested field during the war against the South.
A mutual love of all field sports brought us a good
deal together whenever we met casually in society,
and eventually led to his asking me to serve on his
staff as a volunteer aide-de-camp during the coming
spring, when he had been promised the command of
an expedition being fitted out for a march into the
Yellowstone country, promising, in the event of my
accepting his offer, that he would guarantee I should
kill bear, elk, mountain sheep, and buffalo.
Knowing the General to) be as charming a companion as lie was a thorough sportsman, it did not
take long to make up my mind to join him; and for
the rest of the season we had long conversations,
whenever we met, as to the "good time" we should
have together when we had once started on our
hunt.
The  spring approached and everything was  in
Teadiness for the field.  We expected an occasional
brush with the Sioux Indians, into whose country we
were about to Fenetrate, but as to anything really
serious in the way of fighting, it never for an instant
entered either of our heads.
I got my hunting-gear together, and Custer, passing through Nlew York on his way to Washington,
354 
GENEIRAL C(USTER.
breakfasted with Lord M. and myself the morning
before hle went there, and arranged that I'should have
everything packed and ready to start within an hour
after receiving his telegram; his command at Fort
Abraham Lincoln only waiting his return to take
the field.  I little thought tne day I heard General
Belknap, the Secretary of State for \War, imnpeached
before Congress for selling Post Traderships, that
that very impeachment should have been the indirect
means of saving nmy life.
General Custer proceeded to Washington and gav
his evidence, which unfortunately for himself was so
indirectly damnatory to the President's brother, as
well as to the Miiister of War, that General Grant,
takling advantage of his position as Commander-inChlief (through being Piresident), vindictively superseded him in the command, after having in a most
insulting manner kept him waiting a whole day
in a chamber at the White House, when seeking an
audience.  Poor Custer wrote me word he was not
to go; but the press took the matter up so warmly,
and public opinion ran so high on the subject of the
injustice of his treatment, that eventually the President, as a kind of compromise, permitted him to join
the expedition he was to have commanded, though
only in a subordinate capacity.
His last letter to me from Fort Lincoln said he
was about to take the field in command of his regiment,
under General Terry, who had superseded him; that
of course he could not put me on his staff, not being
in his altered position entitled to one; and that as
he had only received twenty-four hours' notice of his
2 A 2
355 
THIE TTVO AJIE1RICAS.
being permitted to go at all, was unable to ask me
to join him; and that also it was dang,erous, from the
quantity of hostile Indians being on the war-path, to
travel thlrough the country without an escort, which,
as all the available men -were away on duty, of course
I could not get.
The rest is a matter of history.  General Custer,
while on a scout in the vicinity of the Little Big
Horn River, with a force chiefly composed of men
belonging to his own regiment, and numbering some
three hundred sabres, striiuck the Sioux Indians under
their celebrated chief, "Sitting Bull."  What exactly
transpired will never be known with any degree of
accuracy, as not one single soul out of the entire
party lived to tell the tale.
General Custer, his brother and  nephew, with
fourteen officers were among the slain, and lhad I
received his last letter a few days sooner, or had a
Cabinet Minister not been impeached, there can be
no doubt but that I should have shared their fate,
and that probably at the present moment my scalp
would be adorning an Indian lodge-pole.  I was
greatly disappointed when I first heard I was not to
go.  My traps were packed, and all was ready, but
it only shows the truthl of the old proverb, "A man
never knows when he is well off," and I can truly
say I have much to be thankfiil for, but I little thought
while writing my impressions of the Sioux or Dakotas
in the Rocky Mountains, that my prognostications
concerning them should to a certain extent be fulfilled actlually before the words I had written could
be put in print.
,')' 5 6 
TALE OF A SNUFF-BOX.
A  singular incident happened shortly after my
arrival in New York, which speaks so highly for the
people connected with it, and really is in every way
so remarkable and almost romantic, that I cannot
help relating the story.
Having taken up my quarters at the Everitt IHouse,
my name, among many others, was announced in the
list of arrivals.  A few days afterwai,ds I received a
1'tter from a firm of lawyers, stating that they had
received instructions from one of their clients, who had
seen my arrival in the papers, to find out if I was any
relation to a baronet of my name, who many years
ago had been travelling through the country, and
who had left some property in the possession of their
family for more tlhan fifty years, which they were
extremely anxious to return.  On  replying in the
affirmative, an interview was appointed, and, very
much to my satisfaiction and surprise, an exceedingly
handsome and valuable gold snuff-box, with my coat
of arms engraved  on  the lid, and an enamelled
mortuary tablet in the interior, containing a list of
names, dates, and deaths of various members of nmy
family for many generations, was handed over to me.
As I was perfectly unaware of the existence of the
box, and had never even heard a soul speakl of such
a thing, obtaining possession thus unexpectedly of so
valuab)le a fiamily relic was extremely gratifying, and
in the warmest manner I expressed to the lawyers
my gratitude to the lady for the great obligation she
had placed me under.  The gentleman who conducted
the matter, smiling blandly at my warmth, said, "My
dear Sir Itose, it is almost impossible for you to be
357 
TTHE TWO AMllERICAS.
mnore delighted at obtaining so interesting a family
relic, than my client is in getting rid of it. Mrs.
P. is a very old lady, and was left it many years ago
by her husband, who I)e,gged her if possible to return
it to your fatiily.  This on various occasions slie
attempted to do, writing frequently to England, and
once to yourself, her letteis never apparently reaching their destination.  On  seeing, your name, quite
accidentally, she inmnediately coiimmunicated with me,
and her delight, in at last being able to fulfil her
dead husb(and's wishes, and return your snuff-box,
quite equals yours in receiving it."
Hiaving spent an entire season in New Yorlk
society, as well as six weeks at Washington during
the very gayest part of the y)ear, I feel tempted to
give niy impressions; but reme mlbering the manner
in which I was received, and the very gleat hospitality
I enjoyed, I will not venture on so delicate a subject,
notwithstanding my advantages, lest unwittingly I
should wound some one.
I know well enough by not doing so I shall
disappoint many  of  my  Ameiican  friends  who
occasionally lilke their literature " highly seasoned."
This cannot be hjelped.  It will be sufficient merely
to say, that I thank them much for their very great
kindness, having really had in the very fullest acceptation of the tei'm, "Such a good time."
My yarn is now spun.  I have  endeavoured to
curtail it as much as possible, and avoid prosiness.
It being only a gossipping narrative of wiat came
under my  own  iimmediate  observation, the  first
personal pronoun unavoidably comes somewhat pro
358 
THE END.             359
minetitly into play; however, that is an infliction
that all readers of travels become accustomed to,
and if I have bored them very much, I can only
apologize, express sorrow, and regret for their sakes
that a more experienced writer had not undertaken
a description of an uncommonly pleasant rambling
journey through "The Two Amiericas."   Vale.
359
THE END.
I
I 
(  360   )
APPENDIX A.
THE'BOXEP,.'   (See page 94.)
IHAvING seen by tile Times of a recent date, under the lead
of "Naval aId AIilitary Iiitelligence," the official trial of the
Boxe,';, I find it necessary to call attention to the subject.
It states-" A triial of the engines of the Boxer, composite
s.rewv guln-vessel, at the measured mile off tile 5faI)lin Sands,
has been very satisfactory, an average speed of about nine
and a  qualter knots per hour  having  been attained-a
higher rate than had been expected.  The vessel has returned to Cllathlam Dockyard, and has been moored in the
3Ied\ay.   I1er fitments are almost completed, and she will
soon be ready to be coirnmissioned."
This is evidently the ol(1 gun-boat rejuvenated.   Now a
ship on trial doilag its measured mile is a very different
thing from the ordlinary steamring, of the same vessel, and
should bv no means be accepted by the uninitiated public as
a sample of the sliii,'s ordinal'y performances.
')uringr a tiial of this sort, the boilers are kept at fill
pressure by picked stokers who do not usually belong to the
ship's company; the coal is the best the dock!yard can supply,
and naturally very far superior to coal unselected and picked
up anyhow at out-of-the-way coaling-stations in foreign parts;
and the whole trial is superintended  by a class of men
attached to the dockyards who are employed especially for
these purposes.
I was )on board the Rocket during her trial trip at Shoeerness,
during whiclh trial niothing could have been more satisfactory,
and yet she proved afterwvards to be a veritable dummy.
It is impossible to attach too great importance to the
necessity of having efficient and serviceable gun-boats, and
one cannot overrate their immense utility in time of war. 
APPEvD'Xx A.                      361
That there are considerable dimculties in the construction
of what I must term "effi('ient gun-boats," I will readily
allow; but Adhile millions hlave been squandered in expensive
failures like the Captaite, and many others it is needless to
enum(rate, coinparatively nothing has been attempted in
perfecting a class of vessel that has invariably proved itself
of vast consequence on many important occasions, and whose
very economy in construction should  alone render  it at
any rate an oblject of consideration for those who have the
designing of our Navy.
bpeed under steam; strength to carry two guns (one of
heavy calibre) and fight them continuously if needed, as in
case of boailbardment, withiout rackin,g herself to pieces;
capa(ity for turning rapidly in a confined space; suiffi(cieint
sailing property to enable iler to take long voyages by these
means alone, within a reasonable space of time, and thus save
fuel for important occasions-all these combined in a vessel
with not overi eight feet draughit of water are the chief
qualifications for success, but which up to the present time
have certainly never been arrived at.
There are manydifficulties in arriving at these combinations,
though I feel certain they can be overcome.  Being compelled to have so small a drau,ght of water as eight feet
neces.sit tes a gull-boalt's bottom to be almost fiat, and consequently having no hold in the water, wlhile sailing as "close
hauled" as she sometimes is obliged to be, her amount of
lee way is incredib'e.  This being allowed, why should not
a lee-board be adopted?  It will certainly make a man-ofwair look like a Thames barge, but 1 take it appearance is of
small importance where utility can be arrived at-; and many
a time (luring our tedious passag,e from 5iazatlan to San
Diego, I felt certain, from observation, that had the  iocket
been so provided, our days of discomfort would have been
considerably shortened.
I quite expect to have my idea either ridiculed or poohpoohied, still it is worth a trial; and as fitting up a lee-board
would cost comparatively nothing, it certainly ought to be
attempted, unless some other better plan can be suggested
361
APPE-YDIX A. 
APP1-NDIX B.
for enabling a round-bottomed shallow-drauglhted vessel of
considerable leng,th and no hold whatever on the water to
beat to windward in a rou,ghisli sea. One thing is at any rate
quite evident. Our present class of gun-vessels are defective,
and it is some one's duty to see that a more useful and better
sort be forthcoming, and that shortly, as the time when they
will be needed cannot befar off.
I see by a recent paper the following intelligence.  "Loss
of a gun-vessel.-H.1l.S. Lapwing has been reported lost in
a great gale near Cliefoo.  The Lapwing was a double-screw
gun-boat, with three guns and was of 774 tons and 882
(nominal 160) horse-power."  I am only surprised we do not
see this sort of thii,g oftener, and it is only owving to the
very great care aid caution of the officers that it does not
occur.
APPENDIX B.
(See page 263.)
THr, trowel-bayonet.   While in the vein for maling suggeslions, I wish again to draw attention to the trowel-bayonet,
a description of which is given at page 263.  In these days
of military progress, when arms of precision are so equally
distributed among European nations, a very little weight on
either side of the scale may turn the balance, and most
unquestionably whichever side holds the smallest advantage
has immense odds in its favour.
-lost people who pay any kind of attention to military
matters will, I fancy, allow that the days when battles were
won by charg,es of the bayonet are practically end(led; and
a Governiment like that of the United States, who have
ltely had all the experience of a long and severe war in
their own country, ought to be c(nsiderecd no mean judges
of a weapon which, without hesitationl, they have adopted
for their army.
The system of tactics most liklely to find favour (at any
362
i 
APPENDIX C.          363
rate for the commencement of all great battles) will cause
the frequent use of long lines of skirmishers on each side,
and where the ground is open a decided advantage must
necessarily accrue to the men who, armed with the trowelbayonet, have the ready means always at hand of throwing
up or otherwise improving any natural cover they mnjay take
shelter in.
With an army so numerioally, welk as ours, it behoves the
authorities to render the small force they have the control of
as efficient as possible; and though the adoption into the
service of this novel weapon would possibly meet with
opposition from the pipe-clay school of soldiers who study
al)p)earances more than utility, I cannot help believing that
the practical man would immediatetly see its advantages
over the present comparatively useless bayonet, and gladly
approve of the change. Shelter-tren(ch drill, as taulglht when
I had the honour of serving, was a harmless amusement,
utterly inapplicable to active service or the requirements
of advancing or retiring lines of skirmishers; it, however,
pleased tle authorities of the d(lay, and the details for its
pcriormance may even now be given in our drill-book.
APPENDIX C.
(See page 293.)
3MY chapter about Indians was written shortly after a
lhunting expedition in the Rocky 3fountains, where wNe had
been over ground frequently visited by Sioux, and during
lwhich hunt three white men had been murdered by tlhemin
withini  a very short distance of our beat.  Colonel Brackett,
commlaniding Fort Sanders, kind(ly gave me his copious notes
on the various tribes hlie hlad lived among, and hlis evident
know,ledge of the subject, particularly as relatilig to the
Sioux or Daklotas, has been amply exemplified by recent
events connected witll their rising.
My prophecy, written after the Great Council at the
363
APPEI.LYDIX C. 
3~~~~~~~~~~4  APPENDIX C.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Black Hills, has already been literally fulfilled (page 905),
as to the eagerness of the yotin- "Brave" to get scalps,
though I hardly thoil-ht it possible that those of a general
officer and three hundred soldiers would have formed the
contribution of a single day.
A general press despatch from the mouth of the B'g Horn
on the 1st July, 1876, gives the following particulars of
General  Custer's disastrous expedition  against, the Sioux
Ilndlians.
At noon on the 23d June, 1876, General Custer, at the head of his fine
regiment of the twelve veteran companies, left camp at the mouth of
the Ro3ebud to follow the trail of a very large band of hostile Sioux
leading up to the river and westward in the direction of the Big Horn.
The signs indicated that the Indians were making for the eastern
branch of the last-named river, marked on the map as the Little Big
Horn. At the same time General Te ry, with Colonel Gibbons in
command of five companies of infantry, four of cavalry, and the Gatlin
Battery, started to ascend the Big Horn, aiming to assail the enemy in
the rear. The march of the two columns was so planned as to bring
Colonel Gibbons's forces within co-operating distance of the anticipated
scene of action by the evening of the 26th.  In this way only could
the infantry be made available, as it would not do to encumber General
Custer's march with foot-soldiers.  On the evening of the 24thl Colonel
Gibbons's command was landed on the south bank of the Yellowstone,
near the mouth of the Big Horn, and on the 25th was pushed twentythree miles over a country so rugged that the endurance of the
men was tested to the uttermost.   The infantry  then  halted for
the night,. blut the department commander, with the cavalry, advanced
twelve miles farther to the mouth of the Little Big Horn, marchling
till midnight, in the hope of opening communication with General
Custer.   The morning of the 26thl brought  the intelligence, communicated by three badly-frighltened Crow scouts, of the battle of the
previous day, and its results.  The story wIas not credited, bedause it
was not expected that an attack would be made earlier than the 27th,
and chiefly because no one could believe that a force such as General
Custer commanded could have met with disaster.  Still the report
was in no way disregarded. All day long the toilsome march was
plied, and every eye bent upon a cloud of smoke resting over the
southern horizon, which was hailed as a sign that General Custer was
successful and had fired the village.  It was only when night was
falling that the weary troops lay down upon their arms. The infantry
had marched twenty-nine miles. The march of the next morning
revealed at every step some evidence of the conflict which had taken
364
APPE.V-DI-Y 0. 
-~~~~APNI 0'             G
place two days before. At an early hour the head of the column
entered a plain, half a mile wide, bordering the left bank of the Little
Big Horn, where had recently been an immense Indian village extending
three miles along the stream, and there were still standing funeral
lodges with horses slaughtered around them, and containing the
bodies of nine chiefs. The ground was strewn everywhere with bodies
of horses, cavalry equipments and buffalo robes, packages of dried
meat, and weapons and utensils belonging to Indians. On this part
of the field was found the clothing of Lieutenants Sturges and Porters
pierced with bullets, and a blood-stained gauntlet belonging to Colonel
Yates.  Farther on were found bodies of men, among whom  were
recognised Lieutenant M'lntosh, the interpreter from Fort Rice, and
Reynolds, the guide. Just then a breathless scout arrived with the
intelligence that Colonel Reno, with a remnant of the 7th Cavalry, was
entrenched on a bluff near by, waiting for relief. The commander
pushed rapidly on, and soon came in sight of a group surrounding a
cavalry guard on a lofty eminence on the right bank of a river.
General Terry forded the stream, accompanied by a small party, and
rode to the spot. All the way the slopes were dotted with the bodies
of men and horses. The General approached, and the men swarmed
out of the works and greeted him with hearty and repeated cheers.
Within was found Major Reno, with the remains of seven companies
of the regiment, with the following named officers, all of whom are
unhurt:  Colonels Benteen and Wier; Captains Felix Mayland and
Macdougal; Lieutenants Godfrey, Mathey, Gibson, Deruded, Edgerly,
Wallace, Varnum, and Hare.  In the centre of the inclosure the
wounded were sheltered, covered withcanvas.  MajorReno'scommand
had been fighting fromi Sunday noon, the 25th, until the night of the
26th, when Terry's arrival caused the Indians to retire.  Up to this
tine Major Reno and those with him were in complete ignorance of
the fate of the other five companies which had been separated from
them on the 26th to make an attack, under General Custer, on the
village at another point. While preparations were being made
for the removal of the wounded, a party was sent on General
Custer's trail to look for traces of his commnand.  They found awaiting
them a sight fit to appal the stoutest heart. At a point about three
miles down the right bank of the stream General Custer had evidently
attempted to ford, and attack the villages from the ford.  The trail was
found to lead back uip to the bluffs and to the northward, as if the
troops had been repulsed and compelled to retreat, and at the same
time -had been cut off from regaining the forces under Major Reno.
The bluffs a'ong the right bank come sharply down to the water, and
are interspersed by numerous ravines all along the slopes and ridges,
and in the ravines, lying as they had fought, line behind line, showing
where defensive positions had been successively taken up and held till
3G5
APPE-NDIX C. 
APPEN.DIX C.
none were left to fight, lay ihe bodies of the fallen soldiers. There,
huddled in a narrow compass, horses and men were piled promiscuously.
At the highest point of the ridge lay General Custer, surrounded by a
chosen band.  Here were his two brothers and his nephew, IMr. Reed,
Colonel Yates, and Colonel Cool'e, and Captain Smith, all lying in a
circle of a few yards, their horses beside them. Hlere, behind Colonel
Yates's company, the last stand had been made, and here, one after
another, these last survivors-of General Custer's five companies had met
their death. The companies had successively thrown themselves across
the path of the advancing enemy, and had been annihilated. Not a
man had escaped to tell the tale, but a story was inscribed on the
surface of the barren hills in a language more eloquent than words.
Two hundred and sixty-one bodies have been buried from  General
Custer's and Major Reno's commands.  The last one found was that of
Mr. Kellegg, the correspondent of the'Tribune'
The'New York Herald's' correspondent says: "I write from the
scene of Custer's magnificent but terribly fatal charge from a plateau,
on which but a few hours since I saw at a glance 115 heroic soldiers of
the 7th United States cavalry lying where they fell at the hands of a
savage foe, cold and dead. Near the top of a little knoll in the centre
of this plateau lay Custer himself, and it touched my heart to see that
the savages, in a kind of human recognition of human clay, had
respected the corpse of the man they knew so well.  Other bodies
were mutilated.   Custer's was untouched, a tribute of respect from
such an enemy more real than a title of nobility. Hle lay as if asleep, his
face calm, and a smile on his lips. Near him were eleven dead
officers.",
Notwithstanding the cruelties committed by the Indianq
-who have a decided predilection for pegging their male
captives "spread-eagle" fashion on the ground, lighting a
small fire over their stomachs while in that position, and
almost invariably treating the females with still greater
barbarity even as regards physical torture-they have unquestionably real and just cause of complaint.  Their territory has been annexed; they have been d(frauded in the
most shocking and sf'andalous manner by agents appointed
from Washlington, who were supposed to attend to their
interests; and in their different wars against the United
States they have occasionally had tribes almost or quite
annihilated by men who spared neither age nor sex.
No one with the smallest particle of humanity can uphold
366 
vP~]I C.              367
such treatment, and Enolishmen are apt, when talking on
the subject, to refer to the superior condition of our tribes in
Canada, and proudly descant on the merits of a humane and
generous policy, which treats the Indian as a subject, and not
as a noxious reptile who should be civilized off the face of
creation.
This comparison betweon ourselves and the Americans is,
however, neither fair nor generous, the conditions respecting
the peculiar position of the respective tribes of Indians in
the two countries being widely different. In " the Dominion"
they inhabit land which nothing but immense labour and
the expenditure of capital (-an ever render available for
agricultural purposes.  Their territories are almost absolutely
valueless, owing to the density of timber and dearth of labour
required to clear them.  In fact, we do not want the land
occupied by our Indians, yet we make  a virtue  (while
criticising the Yankees) of permitting them to use it.
With the Americans it is different Muclh of the land
occupied by Indians is of the very lighest agricultural value.
I have frequently hunted over miles and miles of magnificent
country, which remains entirely unoccupied, simply on account
of the danger settlers would incur from close proximity to
such disagreeable neiglibours, and when it is remembered
that owing to the unproductive nature of the Red man, who
lives entirely by the capture of wild animials, and does not
even breed cattle for his support, that at least a thousand
times the acreage occupied by a "white" is necessary for
]his support, one will see that the position of the Americans
is by no means as easy as our own.
The national wish of the United States is most unquestionably to treat these people fairly, though the means they
adopt are wrong in every respect. An often quoted though
much to be deplored maxim, particularly in the vicinity of
the Sioux, is, that " No Injen is a good In)jen until he is a
dead Injen," and under the existing state of affairs the
proverb is literally true.
If the Americans really wirsh to preserve these people
whose lands they have arbitrarily possessed themselves of,
APPEVDIX C.
367 
36            AZN1C
there is only one possible method of doing so, and it should
be done at once. An accurate register of all young children
and births should be kept at the reservations, and for these
young children there should be compulsory edu(-ation. As
they grow up, agricultural schools should be added; land
should be taken up andl tilled by their labour, and all the male
lndians who have been educated at the schools, and tau,lght
Christiaiiity, compelled, if necessary by force, to work and
become self-supportin)g.  This workI should be superintendedrl
by I)edople sufficiently well paid to induce men of probity and
character to accept the situation. The surplus money derived(
from this source (and it would be considerable, were the plani
properly carried out) should be applied solely for purposes
of ameliorating the condition of the tribe-in fact, from the
time the Indian child wenlt to school unitil hle had his own
farm, his house, and possibly had married and had children
of his own, aid given the very strongest proofs of the improbability of his ever relapsing into his native barlarisnm,
he should be entirely and solely under the control of the
State, and almost a slave, except that whatever he succeeded
in making would be entirely for his own benefit.
The grown-up Indian of the present might be permitted
to die out quietly.  As well attempt to teach a hippopotamus
algebra as a "Buck" or "Brave" civilization.  Continue,
therefore, to feed him on the reservation as of old. and
keeping him out of mischief as muchl as possible, devote
attention solely to his children.
This plan requires time, patience, and much determination,
but it is the only one that Will ever succeed; and, if adopted,
in thirty years from now the old Indians will have mostly
disappeared, and thie reservations might entirely be handed
over to their reformed children, who will have become an
agricultural or pastoral race, and require their nurse-tenders
no longer.
368
APEATDLX 0.