A 404643 I til 'Oo~^^^ ^ ^RA. (C)MPIMENTS OF THE AUTHOR. 1101 - C-, - 0~! ], ~~, ~~~~ 7ti:, -; -S / 1 71o? -S ' ; -:ii:;:i i:i --- —l-::::ii:i.i;:;:. ~;..~.~~;:;;: ~;:.: -' -:i-:;-ii- i:-ii:;~iiii-i-i -:;; i- ~ NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND - BOOK OF HAVANA AND CUBA CONTAINING FULL INFORMATION FOR THE TOURIST, SETTLER, AND INVESTOR; ALSO AN ACCOUNT OF THE AMERICAN MILITARY OCCUPATION WITH HANDSOME ILLUSTRATIONS AND A MAP OF HAVANA BY c ALBERT J. NORTON, MEMBER OF CHICAGO BAR CHICAGO AND NEW YORK: RAND, McNALLY & COMPANY, PUBLISHERS F! 7evI' I,/v8s. Copyright, 900o, by Albert J. Norton. TO "CUBA LIBRE" THIS BOOK IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY THE AUTHOR. CONTENTS. PART I. Page IN THE GULF STREAM................................. 9 THE PILOT'S STORY................................ I2 MUNSON AND THE MERRIMAC..................... 15 IN THE HARBOR..................................... 8 HAVANA, GENERAL PLAN OF THE CITY.................. 22 THE HARBOR................................... 28 THE M ARKET........................................ 30 MARIANAO............................... 35 GEN. LEE'S HEADQUARTERS............ 37 MORRO CASTLE....................................... 43 FORTIFICATIONS OF HAVANA.......................... 53 LA ZARZUELA........................................ 60 THEATERS........................................... 65 THE GARROTE.................................... 69 OFFICIAL EXECUTIONER............................... 78 OBISPO STREET.............................I...... 81 DRIVE TO COLON CEMETERY........................... 88 COLON CEMETERY.................... 93 EL VEDADO............................ 99 THE CATHEDRAL..................3............... I03 CHURCHES............................... CENTRO ASTURIANO................................... 13 CLUBS............................................... I I6 HOSPITALS AND ASYLUMS.....121............. 12 OTHER PLACES OF INTEREST................. 25 CONTENTS. Page CUBAN INDEPENDENCE DAY........................... 130 THE CARNIVAL............................... 133 HOTELS........................................ 38 NEWSPAPERS.............................. 42 CIGAR FACTORIES................................ I45 EDUCATIONAL, FINANCIAL, ETC........................ 148 LIFE IN HAVANA AND CUBA........................... 152 SOCIETY IN THE CAPITAL.................. 152 THE CUBAN LADY.......................... 55 THE CUBAN GENTLEMAN....................... 158 CUBAN COURTSHIP.......................... I59 RESIDENCES AND BUILDINGS.................... 60 LIFE IN A GREAT HOTEL.................... I62 VEHICLES.................................... 68 STREET SCENES..................... 170 OTHER THINGS OBSERVED.................... 172 FEELING OF CUBANS TOWARD AMERICANS AND SPANIARDS............................. 74 ADIEU TO HAVANA.......................77 APPENDIX TO PART I..................i....... I80 RAILROADS................i.......... 180 STREET RAILWAYS.............................. I8 STEAMSHIP COMPANIES........... 82 TABLE OF DISTANCES FROM HAVANA.............. I85 HAVANA AND THE CENSUS OF 1899............... 86 TABLE OF SEX, GENERAL NATIVITY AND COLOR.... i86 AGE AND SEX AND CONJUGAL CONDITIONS.... I86 BIRTHPLACE AND CITIZENSHIP............. 186 SCHOOL ATTENDANCE, LITERARY AND SUPERIOR EDUCATION.................... 187 HAVANA CITY...................... 87 CONTENTS. Appendix to Part I-Continued. Page CITIZENSHIP, LITERACY AND EDUCATION..... 187 OBSERVATIONS ON THE PRONUNCIATION OF SPANISH.. 190 PART II. CUBA............................................. 95 RESOURCES, ETC.......................... 95 AREA AND POPULATION......................... 96 TABLE OF SUMMARY FOR THE ENTIRE ISLAND...... 197 SCHOOL ATTENDANCE, ILLITERACY AND SUPERIOR EDUCATION............................... I98 TOTAL OF ISLAND..............99 TOPOGRAPHY.............................. 202 ANIMALS...................................... 204 CLIMATE, ETC.................... 204 DISEASES..................................... 205 EARTHQUAKES, HURRICANES, ETC................ 206 MINERALS.................................... 206 TIMBER..................................... 212 AGRICULTURE............................. 217 FRUITS............................ 223 RAILROADS........................... 227 TABLE OF RAILROADS FOR ISLAND.............229-234 INVESTMENTS,........................ 234 CUBA —ITS ADMINISTRATION UNDER SPANISH RULE...... 237 MILITARY OCCUPATION OF CUBA BY THE U. S....... 245 GENERAL BROOKE, MILITARY GOVERNOR.......... 245 ORGANIZATION OF MILITARY GOVERNMENT........ 247 CIVIL DEPARTMENTS............................ 248 MILITARY DEPARTMENTS....................... 248 CONTENTS. Cuba-Continued. Page ORGANIZATION OF SUPREME COURT............... 249 RE-ORGANIZATION OF THE AUDIENCIAS.....253 COURTS OF FIRST INSTANCE AND MUNICIPAL COURTS 258 PAYMENT OF THE CUBAN ARMY................... 259 DEPARTMENT OF POSTS.......................... 260 COLLECTION DISTRICT-CUSTOM DUTIES........... 26i AUDITOR.................................,,. 262 SCHOOL SYSTEM, ELEMENTARY AND SUPERIOR SCHOOLS.................................. 262 BOARD OF EDUCATION-PUBLIC SCHOOLS.......... 263 TEACHERS............................... 264 SUPERINTENDENT OF SCHOOLS.................... 265 ORDER FOR TAKING CENSUS IN ISLAND OF CUBA.... 265 ONLY CIVIL MARRIAGES VALID................... 266 GENERAL LEONARD WOOD, MILITARY GOVERNOR OF CUBA 267 REGISTRATION OF SPANIARDS UNDER TREATY OF PARIS............................ 268 MUNICIPAL ELECTIONS-QUALIFICATION OF VOTERS. 269 CONVENTION TO FRAME A CONSTITUTION FOR CUBA. 270 BOARDS OF REGISTRATION....................... 273 NOMINATION OF CANDIDATES..................... 274 MINORITY REPRESENTATION...................... 277 PROVINCIAL BOARD OF CANVASSERS............... 277 LIST OF DELEGATES TO FRAME CONSTITUTION FOR CUBA..................................... 278 THE FORAKER RESOLUTION AND AMENDMENT...... 280 DUAL GOVERNMENT OF THE ISLAND-CIVIL AND MILITARY.................................... 281 POLITICAL PARTIES....................... 287 CONCLUSION.......................................... 290 PREFACE. This book is the sequel of a visit to Havana in February of the present year, although neither while there nor for several months after my return, did the idea of writing a book upon Havana and Cuba enter my mind. The beauty, the antiquity and the importance of that city, together with its numerous interesting objects and quaint and curious scenes, made such an impression upon me, that at last I decided to write of it more at length and more systematically than has heretofore been attempted. I describe the Havana of to-day. This work is in no sense a history of Havana or of Cuba, although a considerable number of historical dates and'some historical matter will be found scattered throughout the book. The resources of Cuba have been concisely set forth, for the reason that the scope of this work did not permit greater detail than I have employed in relation to the various interesting subjects coming under that head. Some account of the Spanish civil and military administration of the island seemed desirable, and even necessary, to a proper understanding of the dual administration of its affairs under the native civil authorities and the military govern7 8 PREFACE ment of the United States, since its occupation by the latter. Only the more salient facts of the history of the very important period during which the United States has had control of the island could be given. Some of the illustrations have been specially taken, and the map of the city of Havana has been expressly made for this work. To Sefior Benjamin Hurtado, of Havana, I am deeply indebted for various and efficient services rendered. His familiarity with that city, his wide acquaintance and his sources of information have been of especial value to me in the preparation of Part I. Sefiors Rodolf Betancourt, Abel Linares and Zaragosa Cabrera, all of Havana, have done me favors which I highly appreciate. Mr. Henry M. Trimble, of Quemados, Cuba, has also rendered services which I take much pleasure in acknowledging. To those other gentlemen in Cuba, who have expressed an interest in my efforts and who have, in different ways, contributed to make them more efficient, I take this opportunity to return my thanks. Lastly, I am under obligations to Mr. Morris P. Barnett, of this city, for much valuable assistance given me in the preparation of this book. ALBERT J. NORTON. Chicago, Illinois, Nov. 15, I900. NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF HAVANA AND CUBA. PART I. IN THE GULF STREAM. The Prince Edward left Miami at one o'clock in the morning. She steamed out of Biscayne Bay into the ocean and along the Florida Keys. I awoke early. With rhythmic roll the vessel was making profound courtesies to the deep. The sun, not yet above the horizon, was tinting the sky with brilliant hues and spreading a soft glow over the sapphire sea. There were about two hundred passengers on board, many of whom, after breakfast, gathered on deck to enjoy the beauty of the scene. A few paid unwilling tribute to Neptune, while one gentleman, at intervals, paced rapidly up and down the deck, in order to fortify himself against the old sea god's exactions. About nine o'clock we passed close to Sombrero Key and lighthouse, thirty-five miles almost due 9 IO NORTON S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK south of Cape Sable, and about one hundred and twenty miles from Miami. At this point the steamer altered her course and soon entered the Gulf Stream. One is immediately struck with its transparency and its deep blue color. The Gulf Stream varies in width from forty-five to one hundred miles, and its rate of flow is from two and a half miles to five miles an hour, the rate depending upon the width of its channel and local peculiarities as it sweeps along its course. The velocity is considerably greater in its center than at its edges. The current was especially strong that day, the pilot said. I strolled about the staunch ship admiring its fine accommodations and complete appointments. The vessel is a credit to the Florida East Coast Steamship company, in whose service it is employed. Curious about various nautical instruments and appliances which attracted my attention, I asked the pilot, Charles B. Munson, to enlighten me in regard to their uses. Our conversation drifted to his experience as a sailor, and I found that he had had a long and varied career. I was especially interested in the fact that he had been the pilot of our blockading fleet off Santiago harbor, in the late war with Spain. At my request, he agreed to give me an account of some of his experiences, especially as pilot of the blockading fleet. We went below into OF HAVANA AND CUBA II his elegantly furnished stateroom, and there he narrated to me the story of his part in some of the stirring events of the war. 12 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK THE PILOT'S STORY. Educated at a military academy, Munson early took to a seafaring life, sailed to China and other parts of the world, and for many years navigated south Atlantic and West Indian waters, thereby acquiring an extensive and accurate knowledge of their harbors and of their dangers. On April 2I, I898, Munson received a telegram, of that date, from Key West, signed "Captain Sampson," who that very day was appointed RearAdmiral, requesting Munson's services as pilot for a period of ten days. The latter, who was at Jacksonville, Florida, at once went to Key West and thence to the blockading fleet off Havana, where he reported to Admiral Sampson on the 25th of April, and was assigned to the battleship Indiana, Capt. H. C. Taylor being her commander. Munson was with the fleet when Admiral Sampson bombarded San Juan, Porto Rico. As our fleet was nearing its destination, where it was supposed Cervera's fleet lay, Captain Taylor, pointing to four flags fastened to the flagstaff of the Indiana, said: "Pilot, do you see those flags nailed to the flagstaff? OF HAVANA AND CUBA I3 They will never be hauled down. The Indiana is slow and can't run, but she can fight and will never be captured." On May 27, Admiral Sampson sent for Munson, questioned him about the harbors on the south coast of Cuba, informed him that Admiral Cervera's fleet was in the harbor of Santiago, told him that a coller was to be sunk at the entrance to that harbor, and directed him to report to Commodore Schley, then off Santiago. On May 3I, Munson reported to Commodore Schley on board the Brooklyn. On June I, Admiral Sampson arrived off Santiago, with the New York and the Oregon, and preparations were then made for sinking a vessel at the mouth of the harbor. Munson's account of the affair is very interesting. Sampson sent for him, and a consultation was held that day on the New York. Admiral Sampson, Captain Chadwick, of the New York, Lieutenant Hobson and Munson were present, and discussed the best method of sinking the Merrimac. Munson says: "I proposed keeping on the starboard side of the channel until up to Estrella Cove, then starboard the helm gradually and sink the ship abreast of Estrella Point, in four fathoms of water," the water on either side of this place having a depth of from forty-two to forty-eight feet. But Captain Chada 14' NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK wick was of the opinion that the helm should be put to port. As everyone knows, Hobson made an effort on the morning of June 2 to enter the harbor and failed in the attempt. The pilot gives an excellent reason why Hobson was unsuccessful: "The reason Hobson did not enter Santiago on first attempt was, he did not know where the entrance was, it being hard for a stranger to find in daytime, let alone at night." The chroniclers of this episode have found other reasons not half so good. It is in no way discreditable to Hobson that he was unable to get into the harbor on this occasion. The account usually given is that it took so long to dismantle the Merrimac and fit her with torpedoes, that it was nearly four o'clock in the morning when Hobson started on his perilous mission. But Munson says that Hobson started before midnight, cruised until daylight before he found the mouth of the harbor, when it was so late that Admiral Sampson would not allow him to enter the channel. In the afternoon of June 2, Admiral Sampson asked Munson if he would pilot the Merrimac to the entrance of the harbor, so that the plan determined upon should not again miscarry. Munson agreed to this, on condition that a launch should be OF HAVANA AND CUBA I5 sent to take him off the Merrimac when his duty was performed. MUNSON AND THE MERRIMAC. "Everything being ready, Lieutenant Hobson and myself left the flagship New York at about 6:20 p. m., and went on board the Merrimac. My orders were to take charge of the Merrimac and see that Lieutenant Hobson had a good rest, and not call him until 2 a. m. After we were put on board, the launch went back to the New York, and returned with the relief crew for those who were going in on the ship and needed rest for the ordeal before them. After we came on board, Lieutenant Hobson retired and I took charge of the ship. I ran her until the Morro bore N. E. 3 miles, then I lay to, keeping those bearings on until 2 a. m., when I called Lieutenant Hobson and his crew, who then had lunch and made final arrangements for going in. All were cool and showed no signs of fear. I never saw a braver set of men; they knew that in an hour or two certain death awaited them, but still they kept on with their work as only seamen can. By 3 a. m., everything being ready, we started ahead slowly for the entrance; it being moonlight, the Morro could be plainly seen." In iae early part of the night, Cadet Powell came I6 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK alongside the Merrimac in a launch, telling Munson that he had orders to remain by him till the latter was ready to leave the vessel. When the Merrimac was within half a mile of the Morro, about 3:20 a. m., Lieutenant Hobson told Munson that he thoroughly understood all the instructions which he had given him as to how to enter the channel; that Munson could do nothing more for him, and advised him to go with the relief crew. Munson left the Merrimac with Cadet Powell, when, having gone about three ships' length, Hobson hailed the launch and it went back to the vessel, taking off Mr. Crank, assistant engineer of that boat, and then proceeded on its way toward the Texas, which it reached about 3:45 a. m. By this time the Merrimac was inside the harbor entrance, and the hills around were a "mass of fire.' At seven o'clock in the morning Munson went on board the New York. The newspaper correspondents took his name and his statement, but they afterwards told him that Captain Chadwick had had all reference to him in the despatches cut out. Munson's opinion is, that the reason why the collier did not sink at the point selected was because she was kept on the west side of the channel instead of on the east side, as he had advised. He was the only American employed as a pilot. Munson is now the OF HAVANA AND CUBA 17 captain of the steamer Cocoa, a coasting vessel, formerly the Spanish ship Argonauta, captured on April 29, I898, by the Nashville, having on board a number of Spanish officers and a large amount of specie. I8 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK IN THE HARBOR. After the pilot had finished his narrative I again went on deck. A "tramp" steamer going in an opposite direction passed us, and, in about an hour, another showed itself in the distance, the only vessels sighted during the whole trip. Soon we crossed the Tropic of Cancer, and the dim outlines of Cuba appeared on the southern horizon. As we approached, its headlands stood out in bold relief. And now we are nearing our destination. All is eager expectation. At last we are rewarded with our first view of old Morro and the beautiful city of Havana. The soft air, the bright sunshine, the exquisite blue of the Gulf, the low but massive stone buildings painted in various colors, the harbor winding gracefully around the eastern and southern sides of the city, and all encircled by hills, with openings here and there disclosing fine vistas beyond, formed a scene befitting the Pearl of the Antilles. The ship's course was now southeasterly. As we entered the channel Morro Castle rose proudly on our left, while directly opposite, on our right, La Punta showed her battlements. The Prince Edward continued on in the same direction for about a mile OF HAVANA AND CUBA 19 and a half, and anchored within three hundred feet of the wreck of the Maine. This was Monday, February 19, 1900. After some delay occasioned by the visit of a health officer and of another official, we passed from the Prince Edward to the steamer Tarpon, used by our government as a transport in the late war, which had come to take us across the harbor to the customhouse. Passports were required until January 5, I899, when the Military Governor issued an order rescinding all decrees relating to passports. In former days, the passport had to be delivered to the proper official, a license to travel on the island, not to exceed three months, was given, for which a considerable fee was paid, and another fee was exacted when the passport was returned on departure from the country. There was much good natured strife among the "interpreters" on the Tarpon in their efforts to secure the largest number of passengers as guests for their respective hotels. These interpreters are usually young Spaniards and Cubans of good education, who speak several languages with fluency. They are polite and thoroughly reliable. The larger hotels, like the Inglaterra and the Pasaje, have two representatives at the steamers. 20 NORTON S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK Before we left the Prince Edward, I caught the eye of one of the interpreters for the Pasaje, and pointed to its tags on our valises. When we stepped on board the Tarpon, Mrs. Norton and myself were taken by him to a group of passengers who had selected that hotel. Similar knots of people, who had made their choice of hotels, were standing about the deck. There was no lack of interesting objects to view while waiting for the steamer to take us to the landing-Morro to the north, La Cabania a little nearer, the village of Casa Blanca opposite, Regla, a thriving city half a mile south, Havana to the west, ships of every nation anchored in various positions in the harbor, the wreck of the Maine almost within a stone's throw, and those of our fellow passengers who, not having decided where to stay while in Havana, were halting not merely between two opinions, but, so to speak, among half a dozen, and who, one after another, of course, finally succumbed to the suave interpreters. The fare to the wharf was fifty cents for each passenger. The Tarpon, so I was told, made its first trips that day, as the little sail and row boats, with which the harbor abounds, had before that time taken passengers to and from the steamers-an unsatisfactory and unsafe means of transfer. Escorted by one of the Pasaje interpreters, we passed OF HAVANA AND CUBA 21 through the gates at the custom-house, were put into a coach drawn by a small horse, and rattled over the rough pavements through alley-like streets to our hotel. 22 NORTON S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK HAVANA. GENERAL PLAN OF THE CITY. It will be well at this point to take a survey of the general plan of the city. Havana is bounded on the north by the Gulf of Mexico; on the northeast and east by the harbor; on the south by the harbor, the Loma,l Hill of Atares and, with a little valley between, the rising ground whose crest is nearly half a mile west of Atares, and which terminates farther southwest in the Hill of Cerro; on the southwest by a valley, about a mile in width, lying between this lower portion of El Cerro and the Hill of the Castle of Principe, the small Hill of Las Animas being situated about half way between the Hill of Principe and the Cerro slope; and on the west, by a portion of this valley, the Hill of Principe, the latter nearly a mile from the north shore, and a range of hills running in a somewhat northeasterly direction to within about two hundred feet of the shore of the Gulf. Such are, roughly speaking, the boundaries of the city of Havana as they are generally known, but 1 For the pronunciation of Spanish words, see "Observations on the Pronunciation of Spanish," at the close of Appendix to Part I. OF HAVANA AND CUBA 23 these are by no means its legal limits, as will be shown a little later. Some of the main thoroughfares and the location of a few of the more important objects of interest within the boundaries of the city as just described are worthy of note. In 1633 the construction of the old walls of the city was begun. These walls started from the place where the Arsenal now stands, not far from the western extremity of the harbor on its inner shore, following Zulueta street north and terminating at the channel, a quarter of a mile southeast of La Punta. These walls were finished in I702, and were almost completely demolished between I863 and I880. That portion of the city to the east of the walls was called intramuros and the newer portion to the west, was called extramuros. The intramural or older portion of the city contains many buildings and places of great historic interest. Obispo, O'Reilly and Teniente Rey streets are the most important ones in this district, and run from the harbor west to the Prado. Beginning at La Punta, the fortress at the entrance to the harbor, the Prado, a wide and beautiful drive, extends in a southwesterly direction for a distance of nearly three quarters of a mile to Parque Central (Central Park), thence south along the west side of Central Park, of Parque de Isabel La Cat6 - 24 NORTON S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK lica and of Parque de La India, terminating at Calzada del Monte, or del Principe Alfonso, within half a mile of the western extremity of the harbor. The whole length of the Prado is not more than a mile and a half. It is the first street west of Zulueta street. West of the Indian Park is Colon Park, formerly Campo Marte, or military drill ground and park. Running west from Colon Park for more than half a mile, Calle de La Reina, (Queen's street), opens into the splendid drive known as Paseo, (promenade) de Carlos III, or Paseo de Tacon, and sometimes spoken of as Paseo Militar, extending due west about a mile, to Principe Hill. The western half of this Paseo borders, on the south, the Quinta de los Molinos, or the summer residence of the captain-generals, and its gardens. Here also are the famous Botanical Gardens. Beginning near the Gulf shore, the fine street Calzada de La Infanta, for some distance south, skirts the range of hills before spoken of as bounding the city on the west, then goes in a southerly direction until it intersects the Calzada del Monte more than a mile south of Paseo de Tacon. More than half a mile east of Calzada de La Infanta, and running nearly parallel to it, is the important Calzada de Belascoain, starting from the Gulf, just east of Ba OF HAVANA AND CUBA 25 teria de La Reina, (Queen's Battery), and also intersecting Calzada del Monte about half a mile south of Paseo de Tacon. The coach tariff for one or two persons anywhere in the city east of Belascoain street, is a peseta, Spanish silver twenty-cent piece. The Calzada de San Lazaro runs westerly, along the shore of the Gulf, from La Punta to the Queen's Battery, a distance of about a mile. This street is also called Calzada Ancha del Norte. In the old portion of the city the streets are only about twenty-two feet wide, and the sidewalks from eighteen inches to two feet in width. In the newer portion they are thirty-three feet wide with five-foot sidewalks. The streets in the old part are mostly paved with large square stones. Underlying the northern part of the newer portion of the city, within a few feet of its surface, there are tertiary and quarternary rock formations, which easily absorb liquids. Along the harbor and in the southern portion of the city, generally, these rock formations are of a chalky character, and are much less permeable to liquids. Hence, sinks and other receptacles often overflow. Such are the main features of Havana, as the city is generally known. The limits of Havana were fixed by ordinance bearing date August 23, I879, and are to-day the legal boundaries of the city. Without attempting 26 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK to describe them in detail, a brief statement respecting them will here be given. The Gulf of Mexico, as before stated, forms the northern boundary, and the harbor or Bay of Havana, except as hereinafter noted, forms a part of its eastern boundary. Ascending the Martin Perez River, which flows into the arm of the harbor called Ensenada de Guasabacoa, to the bridge over that river at the Calzada de Guanabacoa, the line runs an irregular course to the point where the Calzadas of Luyano and Guanabacoa cross; again pursuing a devious course, the place where the Gfiines road crosses Rio Hondo marks a point in the boundary line. The Giiines road is followed from this point to its intersection with Camino Viejo de Giiines, a distance of nearly seven miles southeast of Plaza de Armas. The village of Calvario lies seven miles nearly south of Plaza de Armas, and is within the limits of the city of Havana. Where the main road of Managua crosses the Almendares, or Chorrera River, more than eight miles southeast of Plaza de Armas, is another point in the boundary line, which latter follows the river west and north to Villate y Aguas Claras, thus including the city of Arroyo Naranjo, seven miles southwest of Plaza de Armas, within the limits of Havana. OF HAVANA AND CUBA 27 Again pursuing an irregular course, leaving the river on the east, the boundary line includes the town of Puentes Grandes, about four and a half miles southwest of Plaza de Armas. The line crosses the Almendares River once or twice after leaving Puentes Grandes and ends at the mouth of the Almendares River and the Gulf of Mexico. It will be seen that the cities of Carmelo, Vedado, Cerro, Jesuis del Monte, Tulipan, La Cienaga and Puentes Grandes, usually spoken of as suburbs of Havana, are really within its boundaries. The caserio, or village, of Casa Blanca, with its territory is a part of Havana. Casa Blanca's territory includes the fortifications of La Cabania and Morro Castle; from the latter its boundary line runs eastward along the shore to Playa de Chino, a distance of perhaps three-fourths of a mile, and from this place in a circular direction, terminating at the Bay of Triscornia a little east of Casa Blanca. Regla, a city across the Bay of Havana, though often spoken of as a part of Havana, lies outside of the limits of the latter. The following are some of the more notable lomas, or hills, within the city limits, as last defined: Loma de Mazo, also called the "Key Hill," it being considered the most important strategic position in the vicinity of Havana. It is nearly four miles southwest of Plaza de Armas. 28 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK This hill is about 800 feet long in an east and west direction, and its highest point is 200 feet above sea level. A mile north of this hill is that of Jesus del Monte, 220 feet high. At the western extremity of the Bay is Loma de Atares, 1 I feet in height. The ledge of rock on which Morro Castle is situated is probably about 25 feet in height at its extremity, but rises to a height of 75 feet a quarter of a mile to the southeast. At one point the ridge on which La Cabania is situated reaches a height of 157 feet. The hill of San Diego, east of Cabania is I90 feet above sea level. Principe Hill is I50 feet high. THE HARBOR. The channel, between the extreme points of Morro and La Punta, is a quarter of a mile in width, narrowing a little farther on to one thousand feet, then widening to a quarter of a mile, and is about a mile in length. This part of the harbor is sometimes called the River of Havana. The general direction of the harbor, usually designated on maps as the Bay of Havana, from the termination of the channel is southwest. Its average width is a mile, but in some places its width is a mile and a half. Its eastern and southern shore is indented with three small bays, ensenadas, the Bay of Regla, of Guasabacoa and of Atares. The harbor, from Morro to Taei n r?"kt; Reui a d A gugh 80is fl a vkl I OF HAVANA AND CUBA 29 the hill of Antares, at its southwestern extremity, is about three miles long. The natural depth of the harbor is said to be from thirty-five to forty feet, but its bottom is covered with a layer of filth fifteen or twenty feet in thickness. A thousand ships can easily find here a secure shelter in case of storm. Vessels from all parts of the world enter the harbor, and it presents a varied and animated scene. The old name of the Bay of Havana was Carenas Bay. I shall use simply the term harbor in speaking of this body of water. 8 30 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK THE MARKET. The next morning after our arrival a force of men in white duck suits was at work sweeping the Prado in front of our hotel. The dirt was gathered into piles and taken away in carts. I found New York and Chicago papers at the news-dealers. The former were from three to four days, and the latter from four to five days, late. At seven o'clock people were beginning to make their appearance on the streets. The newsboys were crying "La Lucha," "Havana Journal," and so forth, which they sold at five cents apiece, Spanish money. There, too, were the shoe-polishers, each perched on a stool beside a high platform on which was a chair of ample proportions. They were equipped with the regulation brush and polishing cloth, and did their work after the American style. Breakfast over, we were ready for the sights of Havana. One thing, however, remained to be done before we started on our rounds, and that was to get a five or a ten-dollar note changed into Spanish money. Hotel bills must be paid in American money or its equivalent. Excursion tickets can only be purchased with the same currency. But nearly all OF HAVANA AND CUBA 3I other expenses of visitors on the island can be paid in Spanish coin, and this is a pecuniary advantage, as Spanish silver is worth considerably less than American money of similar denominations. The value of Spanish currency fluctuates somewhat from day to day. On December 29, 1898, President McKinley issued an order to the effect that on and after January I, 1899, until otherwise provided, the following Spanish silver coins then in circulation in the island of Cuba should be received for customs, taxes, public and postal dues, at the following fixed rates in American money: TABLE. Equivalent Silver Coin. Value. in U. S. Money. El peso..............$I.oo $o.6o El medio peso......... 50. 30 Una peseta..........20.I2 Una real...............o6 Medio real......... 05.03 There is a dos peseta-piece, Spanish $0.40, worth in American money about $0.24. There are also copper and bronze coins in circulation. American money is exchanged for Spanish silver coin nearly on the basis of equivalent valuations given in the foregoing table, but probably on a somewhat higher average valuation of Spanish coin. 32 NORTON S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK We arranged to go that afternoon with an excursion party to Marianao, and then paid a visit to one of the great markets, mercados. This market covers a square, is two stories in height, and is completely surrounded by great pillars reaching to the second story, forty feet high, connected at their upper ends with arching masonry. A stone pavement supports these massive pillars. The pavement, extending from the pillars to the wall of the building, is probably twenty-five or thirty feet broad, while a ceiling, resting on the columns and the wall of the building, roofs over this great space and forms a portion of the floor of the second story. Immense awnings are stretched between the columns, some from the inner side of the crowns of the arches, some from their capitals, and reach to within a few feet of the pavement, thus protecting from sun and rain. Against the walls are stalls and booths for small tradesmen, where all sorts of articles such as cheap jewelry, curios, gentlemen's furnishings, ladies' trimmings, silks, ribbons, thread, etc., cutlery, glassware, fruits, confectionery, drugs and drinks of various kinds, are sold. These stalls surround the building, there being space enough between them and the pillars for the customers and passers-by to move freely. The columns are ornamented with the signs of the proprietors of the stalls. OF HAVANA AND CUBA 33 Within the building wide avenues or aisles at convenient distances traverse it at right angles to one another. Here are many articles similar to those on the outside. All kinds of fruits known to the island are to be found here, in their season, many with names wholly unfamiliar to dwellers in northern climes. Vegetables of many varieties lie about in heaps and are piled on platforms, some, such as Irish potatoes, tomatoes and corn, familiar to residents of the states; fish of every variety, fowls, dead and alive; birds of brilliant plumage, carcasses of beeves, dry goods, clothing, millinery goods, notions, hats, caps, shoes, harness, saddles, whips, hardware; in fact, nearly everything that can be obtained in a great department store in the United States, and many articles peculiar to the country and climate, which are never seen in our stores and markets. The smells are almost as various as the articles are numerous. At the center of the second story there is a large court. Standing here and looking about and below, the scene is extremely animated. The place is a very Babel. A miscellaneous crowd of merchants, clerks, buyers, laborers, visitors, men, women and children, black, white, yellow and all the intermediate shades, passing up and down the broad stairs and about the floors, some at their stands 34 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK showing their goods, others haggling over prices, disputing as to weight or quality, inspecting articles, gesticulating, laughing, talking, roosters crowing, turkeys gobbling, birds whistling and singing, monkeys chattering-form a lively picture. There is, however, no real disorder in any part of the building, and there is a classification and a grouping of the various kinds of merchandise into a natural juxtaposition not at first obvious. There are several of these great markets-Mercado de Tacon, Calzada de la Reina and Aguila streets; Mercado de Colon, Zulueta, Monserrate and Animas streets; Mercado del Plaza Vieja, or de Cristina, Ricla and San Ignacio streets, and Mercado del Plaza Vapor, Dragones and Aguila streets, each covering one or two blocks, and surrounded with peristyles whose square columns are probably six or eight feet in width at the pavement and of proper proportions throughout their length. Vastness and solidity are the two qualities most impressed upon the mind of the stranger. By this time, if not before, we began to realize that we were in a foreign city and land, with many scenes new to us, quaint, amusing and instructive. OF HAVANA AND CUBA 35 MARIANAO. At two o'clock we left the hotel with an excursion party for the Estacion de Concha (Concha station), where we took a train for Marianao, a place of I,500 or 2,000 inhabitants, eight or nine miles southwest of Havana. The cars were clean and had comfortable rattan seats. Their ceilings were high, which gave them a rather peculiar appearance. The effect of this method of construction is to secure better ventilation and to make the cars cooler. Half a mile out from the station and something over a quarter of a mile on the right, the low hill of Las Animas with its incomplete fortifications was seen, and a little farther on, to the left, a mile away, Castillo de Atares sat frowning on its rounded eminence. Now the train is bearing to the southwest, and is skirting the suburb of El Cerro. The country to the right is a valley broken here and there with low hills, like that of Ermita Monserrate, formerly called the hill of the Jesuits, half a mile from the railroad, while the ground on the left is higher. Soon the train stops at the neat depot of a pretty town with the musical name of Tulipan. At this place the road crosses the Zanja, or old aqueduct, which for more 36 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK than two hundred years was the only channel conveying to Havana its water supply from the Almendares River. A little later we are at La Cienaga, four miles from Central Park, and about the same distance from Marianao. At Cienaga, to the left of the railroad within a stone's throw, is a Catholic cemetery, hardly a block in size, surrounded by a wall six feet high. There is a large stone entrance, and in a direct line with it, built against the opposite wall, is what appears to be a large tomb, also built of stone. No graves can be seen from the cars. This cemetery is more than two hundred years old. The Marianao Railroad intersects the Havana Railroad at Cienaga. For more than a mile the former runs through a beautiful valley, then, after passing through a tunnel, crosses the Almendares River over an iron bridge, and continues through Puentes Grandes, where it turns to the south. From this point the road runs through a valley under fine cultivation, while the rounded hills at no great distance are dotted with trees. Soon there is a gradual ascent. Then the train enters a cut through the solid granite. The rock sometimes rises to the height of the car windows and sometimes towers above the train. Ali~;li I~ ~~~~~~;IR! s rl *~b Ii~ ~; ~ |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~c;~S: I ~ z Eigr ~"iI"" ~ ~ |~ ~~~,E: isi~ I I | sl a, ~~~ ~ ~ ~~G:nru itihqg Beet Heauae A fw OF HAVANA AND CUBA 37 Tiny waterfalls leap from the rocky sides of this open tunnel and flow in little streams alongside the railroad track. This steep grade extends a distance of nearly two miles, I should say. We pass through Quemados and quickly arrive at our destination, Marianao. Here the main line of this railroad terminates, while a spur track goes north to La Playa de Marianao, two miles away on the sea shore. GENERAL LEE'S HEADQUARTERS. At the station we took carriages for General Lee's headquarters. We crossed a ravine not far from the depot. A stream of water flows through the gorge, and this creek is spanned by a massive stone bridge. I should judge the ravine to be a thousand feet wide. I am unable to say whether the roadway across the ravine is solid stone masonry, but if not, the retaining walls are of stone or brick. The surface of the road is hard and smooth, and is probably from fifty to seventy-five feet above the level of the valley. All admired the strength, massiveness and excellence of this embanked highway. We continued along the calzada past pretty stone houses, mostly one story, but some of them two stories in height, painted in the usual red, yellow, blue and green colors. Some of the residences are very fine, surrounded by large yards filled with beau 38 NORTON S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK tiful flowers, plants, shrubs and trees. Then we came to the business portion. Some of the stores are substantial, well preserved stone structures; others appeared somewhat dilapidated. Little knots of people were standing about the sidewalks, and a few persons could be seen within the stores making purchases. The carriages stopped in front of a large building on an eminence, a fine palace, owned, our guide informed us, by a wealthy nobleman living in Madrid. This building is the headquarters of Gen. Fitzhugh Lee, then Military Governor of the provinces of Havana and Pinar del Rio. General Lee was in the city that afternoon, we were told, in consultation with General Wood. The Cuban people of all classes are very fond of General Lee. We passed along a corridor with numerous rooms opening upon it, took a peep into the kitchen, went through the little garden, shut in on three sides by the palace walls, full of tropical plants and flowers. Then we inspected the stables, close by, and admired the fine horses and carriages belonging to the General's establishment. We ascended the broad marble staircase to the second story, and passed out upon the terrace extending along the front of the palace. Here is a OF HAVANA AND CUBA 39 fine promenade. In one part stands a beautiful little kiosk with its lattice work and rustic seats. From this terrace there is unrolled before the eye one of the most beautiful panoramas in the world. To the southwest and south lies an undulating country, dotted with houses, gardens, trees, cultivated fields, grassy slopes and silvery streams. To the southeast and east are lovely valleys, interspersed among high hills, and beyond are mountains towering hazy in the distance. To the northeast, north and west are seen hamlets, towns and cities, valleys and streams, hills, gentle and rugged, royal palms dotting the surface of the landscape, Havana with its harbor lying in full view, and farther on, in a majestic curve of deepest blue the mighty Gulf Stream, while over all is spread a canopy of azure and gold-a truly noble prospect of sea, hill, valley, distant mountain, town and city. Marianao, with its beach, Playa de Marianao, two miles away, is the most fashionable summer resort of Havana. Every house and villa in the town is occupied by the first of June. An excellent authority says of the place: "Marianao is located on a ridge which runs northeast to Habana and is elevated I40 to I60 feet above the sea, which can be seen beyond an intervening green slope some two miles in width. It is the cleanest, most attractive, and the most beau 40 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK tiful town in Cuba." In the outskirts of the town there is a great banyan tree, which covers five acres. This tree is an object of much interest to visitors. We again took carriages. Leaving the main road, we followed two tan-bark colored strips of earth, which stretched in serpentine curves through field and plantation. Much of the soil here is of a dull red color, very rich, and especially adapted to coffee and tobacco growing. The soil in the valleys is black. We drove through a large tobacco field. Then we followed the cart track into a vast pineapple plantation. The pineapples were less than half grown. The fruit surmounts a stem but a few inches in height, and has growing from its top a cluster of leaves in the shape of a pine cone, hence its name of pineapple. There was a banana plantation near by, which we visited. Royal palms were scattered about. Some stood solitary, some in clusters, and some in groves. Royal they are, indeed, towering to a height of sixty, eighty and one hundred feet, green-tufted at the top, smooth-bodied, with a ring for each year's growth, noble, stately, majestic, yet graceful, tender, beautiful-peerless. Then we drove through Camp Columbia, near Quemados. This is the place where the Seventh Army Corps under General Lee was stationed. Long OF HAVANA AND CUBA 4I rows of barracks with avenues between them and tents scattered about lined the railroad track on either side. The camp is beautifully situated on high and rolling ground overlooking the Gulf a mile or more in the distance. Many soldiers had been sent away, and although there were a number to be seen, there was something of a deserted appearance about the quarters. We came out upon a splendid drive bordered with trees, passed a large tobacco plantation, where some men were picking leaves and putting them on poles to dry. Our guide gathered oranges off the tree for us. We saw, zapotes, mameys, caimitos, mangoes and other tropical fruits growing. We passed mule teams and ox teams drawing great carts loaded with hay and other farm produce, timber, and merchandise of various sorts. We drove by General Lee's private residence, at Quemados, a large, handsome stone house, with fine grounds. Quemados is a village half a mile northeast of Marianao, and is really a part of the latter. Some hovels were passed on the outskirts of the town. The roofs were thatched. Some were without windows, others had only small openings answering that purpose. At Quemados station, we drank the milk of the green cocoanut. It has a rather sweetish taste not altogether agreeable at first, 42 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK but most people soon learn to like it, and the Cubans are exceedingly fond of this drink. It is said to have medicinal properties, and to be especially beneficial in kidney troubles. Before we reached Havana the lamps were lighted in the cars. They are placed so high up that they cast but a dim light. We arrived at our hotel about six o'clock, thoroughly tired, hut feeling that our first day on Cuban soil had been one of extreme pleasure. OF HAVANA AND CUBA 43 MORRO CASTLE. The next morning we went with an excursion party to Morro Castle and La Cabania fortress. Mr. Manuel Fuente acted as guide. When the Cuban rebellion broke out he was living in the United States, but went at once to Cuba, with despatches from the Cuban Junta at New York for General Gomez, and joined the insurgent army. He was captured early in the war, but being a naturalized citizen of the United States, the American Consul intervened in his behalf, and after a five days' imprisonment he was released. The only way of getting from the city across the channel to Morro is by means of small sail boats called feluccas. They are generally rowed when loaded with passengers. These boats will hold about ten persons, and are covered with awnings for about two-thirds of their length. The canvas is stretched over arches rising from the sides of the boats, and these arches are kept firm by several long crossstrips. We were told to be very careful not to fall overboard, as in that case we surely would become the prey of the hungry sharks which infest the harbor. The story of a carpenter, who while at work 44 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK a few days before fell from the docks, was related to the horrified passengers. His fellow-workmen heard an agonized shriek, and hastening to the spot, were just in time to see first an arm and then a leg disappear, while the waters around were discolored with the life-blood of their unfortunate companion. We were soon on the farther shore, a quarter of a mile distant from our starting point, and not one of the company had become the food of sharks. Right in front of us rose the steep wall of La Cabania fortress to a height of about seventy-five feet. A marble monument to commemorate the valor and loyalty of those who fell in battle with the Filibusters of Lopez in I851 looks down upon the visitor. We proceeded in a northwesterly direction toward Morro. Almost under the Cabania walls lies a work known as La Pastora. It was formerly a battery commanding the harbor and the city, but it is now used as a storehouse. The cliffs for some distance toward Morro recede from the shore. In this enlarged space there are a few huts. Some children were playing in front of one of these hovels. One little fellow was stark naked. The inexorable kodak soon made this youngster its victim, and the result was a fine specimen of the nude in art. We now ascended a pathway, protected on either ititigH Wmgjua Aoq4M — opsup opon~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~' I OF HAVANA AND CUBA 45 side by walls seven or eight feet high. Old cannon can be seen at intervals pointing toward the city from the walls of the Cabafia to the Morro. A battery lies at the foot of Morro at the harbor entrance, which is called the Battery of the Twelve Apostles, as each cannon bears the name of one of the Apostles. These guns are the largest on the island. We entered a secret passage along the summit of the cliff on which Morro stands. This passage is several hundred feet in length, its outer wall being about three feet thick, with loop holes, through which glimpses of the harbor and of the city below were caught. We came out upon a path leading in the direction of Cabania, and soon found ourselves in a large field sloping gradually to the Gulf. We followed a road till we crossed a bridge over a deep, dry moat, and, passing through a massive archway, we were within the extensive fortifications known as La Cabania. The construction of this fortress, whose full name is Castillo de San Carlos de La Cabafia, was commenced in 1763 and finished in I774. A redoubt stood on Cabafia hill, and was captured by the English in I762, as was also Morro. Authorities differ as to the cost of the fortification, some giving it as $14,000,000, some as $23,000,000 and some as $40,000,000. 4 46 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK Including all its appurtenances, the fortification is about 5,700 feet in length, from north to south, and is about 840 feet in width. Probably Io,ooo men could find quarters within the fortress. It lies about a quarter of a mile southeast from Morro Castle. A road with shade trees on either side passes from the entrance to Cabania across the large enclosure. Trees are scattered about in various places within the walls. There are officers' headquarters, soldiers' barracks and a little chapel, all located in this part of the fortification. The officers' quarters consist of parlor, dining room, two sleeping apartments, kitchen and bath room. The Governor of Cabania, of the rank of brigadier general, formerly occupied a pretty little house near the road before mentioned. From the ramparts a fine view of the harbor, city, and surrounding country is obtained. Spanish cannon, highly ornamented, some of them two hundred years old, mounted on high carriages, overlook the low parapet. Acres of roofs, paths, roadways, ramparts, parapets, bastions, and other appurtenances to fortifications present themselves to the bewildered view. We walked between two long, massive, one-story buildings. In one building there is a succession of arched rooms, about forty feet long and sixteen feet wide, with heavy doors and grated windows. Here I Shib X iiuX t SO& Wh&X Thalnd dShot fit aJet d I dt CUN-The L646 D atl I ~I _ i~ _,rxe tt tasla-ieIr lst OF HAVANA AND CUBA 47 Cuban prisoners were confined. Wooden beams extended the whole length of the rooms, two or three feet from the walls. The prisoners slept in hammocks stretched between the walls and these beams. The filth in these rooms, while the place was used as a prison, was indescribable. On the opposite side of the lane, at short intervals, are sentry-boxes, and in the other building Spanish soldiers guarded the poor victims across the way. We passed out through the archway and over the bridge by which we had entered, and made a long circuit in the open field, until we stood on an eminence whose side had been walled up. We were looking at Cabafia, in the direction of the city. A few rods in front of us was a thick wall, not so high as the one on which we stood, and in that wall, opposite our position, a large opening disclosed another wall a few rods farther on. Steps led down from our location twenty-five or thirty feet into a long, narrow space between our wall and the middle wall. The space between the middle wall and the third one widens out into several acres, somewhat to the right, and was often used as a drill ground for the Spanish troops in the fort. Cuban prisoners who were to be executed were marched to this third wall, made to face it, kneeling close to it, with their arms pinioned behind them. 48 NORTON S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK The firing squad then took position a short distance in their rear and at a given signal fired a volley at the prisoners. The bullets, passing through the bodies of the victims, in time traced along the wall the famous "dead-line," eighty-five feet long. A picket fence, enclosing on three sides a strip of ground a rod in width and several rods in length, with the side of the middle wall facing us for its fourth boundary, marks the spot where the remains of many of the victims of the firing-squad now repose. Above this consecrated ground there is a wooden slab on the wall, with an inscription to the martyrs who died for their country, in which is expressed the hope that a marble slab will replace the wooden one, that thus the memory of their sacrifice for the independence of the country may be forever perpetuated. Prisoners who were to be confined at La Cabaia were taken across the harbor and landed at the Cabania dock. A long stone staircase leads up from this dock. At the foot of the steps these prisoners bade their friends a last farewell, and with their hands tied behind, staggered up and along this passageway to the dungeons and cells ready to receive them. Many of them never reached these loathsome places, but, as the bullet holes in the walls on either hand attest, were shot on the way. OF HAVANA AND CUBA 49 When they were to be executed they were first taken to the little chapel where the last religious rites were performed, after which they began their death march through the official entrance, down dark stone steps to a great wooden door-the postern-gate-to the "dead-line." This latter is also frequently spoken of as Los Fosos de Los Laureles, the "Laurel Ditch," because of the laurel trees along the ditch or moat where the executions took place. BACK TO MORRO. We retraced our steps, once more going through the secret passage before mentioned, which is a great opening along an outer wall of Morro, facing the harbor. We followed a path leading to a road passing through a great archway which was guarded by an American soldier. We climbed stairs and went down steps, passed over roofs, and at last came to the outer walls of the castle, on the ledge of rock at the harbor entrance. Several of us walked carefully to near the edge of the wall, and looked cautiously over it into the "sharks' nest," on the gulf side of Morro. Many Cuban prisoners were shot, and their bodies hurled from this wall to the sharks forty feet below. The top of the wall is perfectly smooth and nine feet across. A few days after our visit to Morro, I saw the spray breaking over the spot where we had 50 NORTON S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK stood, and it sometimes dashes over the top of the tall lighthouse, O'Donnell, built from one of the roofs a little distance from our position. Entering a long vaulted room we saw piles of cannon-balls, some very large and others not larger than a baseball. A trap-door on one of the roofs stood open. A stairway, with steps two or three feet apart, leads to what is- supposed to be a secret passage and dungeons far below. There is a signal service station, a large stone building, rising from the roof of Morro on the side overlooking the harbor and the city. It is well equipped with the necessary instruments, and when we were there was in charge of Seiior Narciso Valdez Mir, a Cuban gentleman, who had the honor of lowering the Spanish flag when the American military authorities took possession of the city. The erection of Castillo del Morro, by some authorities also called Los Tres Reyes, "The Three Kings," and by others, spoken of as distinct from the latter, was begun in I589 and finished in 1597. Additions have been made to it from time to time until the original castle is hardly recognizable. It was partly destroyed. in I762, when the English captured Havana, but was soon rebuilt. The battery of the Twelve Apostles is part of Morro, as is that of Velazo, a little to the northeast along the Gulf OF HAVANA AND CUBA 5I shore. Farther east near the abrupt shore are earthen redans Nos. I and 2. A few cattle were grazing on the rocky plateau east of Morro at the time of our visit. There is a secret passage leading from the officers' headquarters at Cabafia to the sea. It has been cut through rock, and ends at the mouth of a sewer, which empties into the Gulf. This subterranean passage is over I,ooo feet long, a little over 8 feet wide and slightly more than 6 feet high. There is another secret passage leading to the same exit. This is more than 350 feet in length, about 4~ feet in width and about 5- feet in height. It is a road cut through the rock and an entrance leads to it from the surface road going from the Morro wharf to Cabania. This latter entrance is covered and is several hundred feet from the wharf. As seen from the sea the common exit at the mouth of the sewer has the innocent appearance of a sewer-grating. Some 3,000 feet east of Cabania, on the Hill of San Diego, is a stone bastioned fort by the same name. This fort is about I90 feet above sea-level. The day was hot, the wind blew in fitful gusts and threatening clouds overspread the sky. We returned to the little boat which had taken us across the channel. The shark story of that morning came again into our thoughts. Every one kept quiet, 52 NORTON S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK while our thin boatman struggled hard at the oars, and finally deposited his load of ten at the Machina, or landing place. LOuerza, Mp60 Plad Aeni* OWdst strueterin ia avM OF HAVANA AND CUBA 53 FORTIFICATIONS OF HAVANA.1 Besides the forts of Morro, Cabania, San Diego and other defenses already mentioned, there are other fortifications of great importance, and some of them of much historic interest. The oldest structure existing in Havana is the Castillo de la Fuerza, on O'Reilly street, opposite the Plaza de Armas. It was constructed in 1538 by Hernando de Soto, the discoverer of the Mississippi River, who was then Governor of Cuba. The French had burned Havana, and the fort was built to prevent another disaster of this kind. It is a small building with a tower of two stories. The French, however, again burned Havana in I554. The fort is used as barracks, as an armory, and for public offices. From La Fuerza, there extends an old sea wall along the channel to within a quarter of a mile of La Punta. A portion of the way there is a parapet, but no guns are now mounted on this wall.2 The 1The account here given of the fortifications of Havana is based on that to be found in "Military Notes on Cuba," 68 et seq., Government Printing Office, Washington, 1898. 2 Since this was written it appears that the old cannons lying along this wall are being mounted and will, undoubtedly, be objects of much curiosity to visitors. 54 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK bastion at its end is used as a barrack and an ordnance storehouse. The wall is about twelve or fifteen feet above the water level. San Salvador de la Punta, at the entrance to the harbor, and opposite Morro Castle, was begun in I589 and finished in I597. Its walls are limestone, and from eight to ten feet thick. There is a small bastion on shore, and a redan in front surrounded by water. The Presidio and Carcel are opposite, on the Prado. The three castles, La Fuerza, La Punta and El Morro, are the ones seen on the coat of arms of the city of Havana. They appear, argent, upon a field of azure. A golden key is also seen. Above these is a crown bordered by the necklace of the Golden Fleece. A royal decree of May 24, 1634, gave Havana the title of "Llave del Nuevo Mundo y Antemural de las Indias Occidentales," that is, "Key of the New World and Bulwark of the West Indies." Although previously adopted by the city, the coat of arms was not confirmed by royal order until I665. There are artillery and engineer storehouses near La Punta. Its "command" is only about twelve feet above the sea. About a mile west of La Punta, on the Gulf shore, immediately east of San Lazaro Inlet, stands Bateria de La Reina, Queen's Battery. It has a command of about thirty feet above the sea. The shore OF HAVANA AND CUBA 55 here is about two feet above the water, and the walls of the fort rise twenty feet higher. It is, in shape, a segment of a circle. Across San Lazaro Inlet, is La Vigia or San Lazaro Tower-Torreon. It is what is known as a Martello tower, and was built in I556. In 1763, or soon thereafter, Count de Ricla, or de Santa Clara, became Governor of the island, and began the construction of several of Havana's fortifications. The Battery of Santa Clara was named after him, and was completed in I797. It stands three hundred feet from the Gulf, somewhat west of Calzada de Infanta, at the beginning of the range of hills extending back to Principe Castle. There are a number of quarries near this fort. The parapet of the sea front of Santa Clara is about ten feet thick. The wall of the fort is six feet thick at the bottom and four feet thick at the top. The work is partly built of soft limestone and partly of loose stones and cement called "mamposteria." There are three shore batteries between Santa Clara and Chorrera. They are earthen redans, and are known as No. 3A, No. 3B and No. 4. There is a very ancient stone fort at the mouth of the Almendares, or Chorrera River, about four miles west of Havana harbor. There is also one at Cojimar, three miles east of Cabania, and one at 56 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK La Playa de Marianao, seven miles west of Havana. Castillo del Principe, Castle or Fort of the Prince, was begun in 1774 and finished in I794. It is on Principe Hill and about two miles west of Plaza de Armas. It has five bastions. The ditch or moat about this fort is fifty feet wide. Its scarp walls are about forty feet above the bottom of the ditch, and the counterscarp is about twenty feet high. This fort will hold a large garrison. There are a number of secret passages at Principe, one extending from Principe Castle to Morro and Cabania, a distance, in a straight line, of I2,000 feet. There are numerous other secret passages connecting the different parts of the city. Campamento del Principe was an old fortified military camp a little northeast of Principe Fort. The work known as San Nazario, about half way between Fort Principe and Santa Clara Battery, was used latterly by the Spaniards in connection with a cartridge factory. The Arsenal, between Egidio and Factoria streets and fronting the harbor near its western extremity, was built about 1725, as a ship-yard. At the entrance to the Arsenal, is a small guard house. Next to this is the lieutenant's house. There are marine barracks and mess rooms. There are also a fireengine house, a small machine shop, a storehouse, a OF HAVANA AND CUBA 57 boiler house, a larger machine shop and numerous other shops. Near the Arsenal are the Artillery Barracks and a Military Hospital. Near the Cathedral there are ordnance repair shops. On Zulueta street, not far from La Punta, are the old headquarters for the Spanish artillery force of the island. It is a very extensive warehouse for military stores. There is a Military School near the intersection of Paseo de Tacon and Calzada de Belascoain. One of the most interesting of the fortifications of Havana is the Fort or Castle of Atares, situated on a conical hill, at the western extremity of the harbor. It is reached either by taking one of the small boats in the harbor or by the Jesus del Monte street car line. A road leads from Cristina Station directly to the castle. The visitor enters a guard room. Opening from this room, down two or three steps, is a little room about four feet wide, six feet long and eight feet high. Possibly it may be a little larger. It is said that as many as thirty Cuban prisoners were often crowded into this contracted space. A little beyond the guard room, several steps lead down into a room at the right, about ten feet long and eight feet wide. Here are seen several holes in the floor, a pair of stocks, the "dead-cart," —a large 58 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK box with handles at each end-and rings in the walls. The arms and legs of prisoners were stretched and fastened to these rings, and in this position, these victims of Spanish cruelty were shot. The only light from the outside is admitted into this room by a window about eighteen inches long by twelve inches wide. An alcove opens from the room just described. The floor of this alcove is somewhat concave, and in it is a hole, where the blood of the slaughtered prisoners drained away before their bodies were taken from the place on the dead-cart. There are magazines, storerooms and various other apartments in Atares Castle, common to other forts.' This castle is small, and is a double or triple tiered bastioned stonework, somewhat circular in shape. It is nearly surrounded by a deep moat. "For some act, a century or more ago, on the part of its garrison, it is the only Habana fortification that is permitted to fly a silk flag."2 The fort was constructed I763-I767. It was on the slope of Atares Hill, over1 For the foregoing facts in relation to this castle, I am indebted to Frank W. Mechener, of Chicago, Captain of Company I, Second Illinois Infantry, formerly Adjutant of the Second Illinois Volunteer Infantry. While stationed at Camp Columbia, Captain Mechener visited this and other fortifications at Havana several times. 2 "Military Notes on Cuba," 86. OF HAVANA AND CUBA 59 looking the harbor, at the foot of the castle, that Col. W. S. Crittenden, of Kentucky, and fifty men, followers of the Filibuster Lopez, were shot in I85I. 6o NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK LA ZARZUELA. We decided to go to the theater that evening, and selected the Albisu as the one to visit. This theater is but a short distance from the Pasaje Hotel. We traversed the arcade, which extends along the west side of the building in which the Albisu is situated. We looked for the theater entrance, did not find it, but, instead, came upon a man at the farther end of the arcade who was selling tickets for the evening's entertainment. As he spoke only Spanish and I employed only English in my conversation with him, the result of our interview was satisfactory to neither. Mrs. Norton suggested that there was something rather suspicious about this man's selling tickets outside of the ticket office, and in this view I readily acquiesced. We held a consultation in a low tone, why I do not know, unless it was to prevent his hearing what we said, overlooking the fact that he had just demonstrated that he couldn't understand a word of English. At her suggestion we started back to find a policeman. We met one about half way down the arcade. He was a pleasant looking young Cuban in a suit very much resembling the dress of the American OF HAVANA AND CUBA policeman. His white gloves and club added greatly to his handsome appearance. "Do you speak English?" I questioned. "No," came the prompt reply in most excellent English. Thinking the laconic style best adapted to our mutual linguistic acquirements, I said, "teatro." He lifted his hat, bowed gracefully and led the way to the north end of the building, where the entrance to the theater is. Here another man was selling tickets on the outside. Our guide took us to him, and explained to him, as I inferred from the former's manner and language, the situation. The latter looked at me as though he wished to address me in my native tongue, but was restrained from doing so by inability to utter a word of English. I rose to the occasion, and made known my wishes-in the following remarkably pure Castilian: "Deseo dos billetes," which, except as somewhat altered by me to suit the circumstances of the case, may be found in that classic "What to Say in Spanish and How to Say It," gratuitously distributed to tourists by the Plant System. Adhering to the laconic style of expressing myself in Spanish, which seemed so admirably suited to the persons and to the situation, I signified my further desire that the two tickets should be accompanied by reserved seats, "asientos reservados." An inquiry, in Spanish as a matter of course, a 62 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK as to the price of the tickets brought a reply something like this: "Un peso y una peseta," that is, $I.20 Spanish silver. Unwittingly I dropped into English, and asked the policeman the senseless question whether this ticket seller was "all right," and received a nod of assent. The latter then led the way into the theater and down one of the aisles of the parquet to the third row of chairs from the orchestra. The lights burned dimly, and we were entirely alope. Evidently we were in time for the entertainment. In a few minutes a gong sounded, apparently to warn the people on the streets that a performance was to be given. This was repeated about every ten minutes until the play opened. The curtain was bright with various colors, was covered with mottoes, and in its center were the words "Cuba Libre." There were eighteen musicians in the orchestra. Among them were several coal-black negroes who mingled freely with the other members. The orchestral music was excellent, and that and the instruments were quite similar to those of theater orchestras in the United States. By eight o'clock the theater was full. Just before the first selection by the orchestra, a young man took up the tickets, leaving the coupons, which were also gathered up as the act closed. OF HAVANA AND CUBA 63 The performance was of the kind known as the zarzuela, or operetta, so called from La Zarzuela, the royal residence of the Kings of Spain, who were very fond of this kind of diversion. There were three acts, or tandas, each containing several scenes, and each a complete opera in itself. In fact the zarzuela is a Spanish vaudeville with a larger intermixture of the serious and of a rather higher order than the vaudeville plays seen on the American stage. The acting was excellent and the singing good. The audience was well-behaved and appreciative. I caught myself a number of times laughing heartily with the audience at the witticisms of the comic characters, one of whom seemed deservedly an especial favorite. One of the actors chanted a recitative celebrating the cause of "Cuba Libre" in a most inspiring manner. Love and jealousy played their usual parts on the stage, the gambling passion, rustic scenes and city life, the patriot's aspirations and the adventurer's schemes, all were portrayed with fidelity to nature. There were no straining after fine effects, no ranting, and no mannerisms. The predominant quality of the acting was its realism. On the night of February 8, 19oo, about three weeks before we were at the Albisu, a sleight of hand performer was giving an entertainment at this 64 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK house. Among other tricks, he drew forth an American flag. It is said that the audience greeted our flag with hisses, cheered the Spanish flag when it was produced, and went wild with excitement when the performer unfolded before its gaze the Cuban flag. The first act lasted about an hour. The coupons were taken up, the orchestra played a selection and the audience, with the exception of a few who had purchased tickets for the three acts, left the theater for their homes or to buy tickets for the second act. The Albisu is known as an "un acto," "one-act," theater. We were tired and went back to our hotel, feeling repaid, however, for the time spent at the Albisu. The night was glorious. The blue vault seemed just overhead and its jewels, so large and bright, could be plucked, one might almost think, from the places which they adorned. Central Park, brilliantly lighted, was still gay with people, the coaches were hurrying recklessly through the streets, the cafes were filled with good natured crowds, laughing and chatting, sipping their glasses, discussing the questions of the day, the political situation, and venturing opinions as to how soon Cuba would be absolutely "libre." OF HAVANA AND CUBA 65 THEATERS. For a city of its size, Havana is well provided with theaters, and has one of world-wide celebrity. The Cubans are an amusement-loving people, and are liberal patrons of the play house. The Tacon Theater.-This theater bears the name of a celebrated Captain-General of the island. It is on the west side of the Prado, and fronts on Central Park. It was built by Sefior Francisco Marti, in 1837, at a cost of 500,000 centenes, in gold coin, or about $2,ooo,ooo, was named after General Tacon, and is now owned by an American syndicate. It occupies a superficial area of 6,176 square yards, has three entrances on the Prado front, six on San Rafael street, three on Consulado street and one on San Jose street. There is nothing particularly striking in its exterior appearance. Its auditorium is in the shape of a horse-shoe and is very handsomely decorated. The boxes are screened in front by light and graceful lattice-work. This is ornamented with gilt and so open that not only the costumes, but the daintily slippered feet, of the fair occupants of the boxes may be seen. The frescos are executed in good style. A magnificent chandelier depends from the ceiling in front of the 66 NORTON S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK stage, and I,034 gas jets brilliantly illuminate the place. The stage is 42.83 meters, or I41.69 feet, long by 20.68 meters, or 68.4I feet, wide. The entrance is I7.63 meters, or 58.33 feet, wide. The seating capacity of the theater is as follows: There are 28 boxes on the first floor, 6 persons each, or I68 persons; 28 boxes on the second floor, 6 persons each, or I68 persons; 8 boxes on the third floor, 6 persons each, or 48 persons; 2 stage-boxes on each of the three floors, 6 persons each, or 36 persons; 112 reserved seats on the third floor; 552 orchestra chairs on the second floor; IOI chairs on tiers and front; 1,203 chairs front and back tiers; and 6I2-seats in the pit, making the total seating capacity 3,000, which, with standing room for about I,ooo, makes the total capacity 4,000. The seats in the pit not being reserved, are not generally counted. The property room of the house contains 75 shifting scenes and 782 pieces of furniture and fixtures; its armory possesses 605 weapons; its wardrobe, I3,787 costumes; its archives contain a repertoire of about 1,200 selections of operatic music, and a large number of piano and military pieces. Italian and French opera troupes principally fill the season at this theater. It ranks as third largest OF HAVANA AND CUBA 67 in the world, and, when all its excellencies and beauties are considered may, perhaps, be regarded as unsurpassed by any other theater. The Payret.-The Payret is on the southeast corner of the Prado, or more strictly speaking, Parque de Isabel La Catolica, and Calle de San Jose, with its main entrance on the Park. Central Park is just across San Jose street on the north, and the Pasaje Hotel adjoins on the south. Its architecture is of a high order. Massive marble columns support its porch and marble steps, with one or two landings, lead to the auditorium. This theater was partially destroyed, in I883, by the settling of one of the corners, and abandoned until I890, when it was restored to its former condition. It has four galleries and seats 3,000 people. Many opera troupes fill engagements here, and it is a favorite theater with American companies. Hermann, the prestidigitateur, was giving exhibitions of his art at this house, when we were in Havana. The Albisu.-Opposite Parque Central in a building occupying the square bounded by Zulueta, San Jose, Monserrate and Obispo streets. This is an elegant theater. It is the only house that is open during the whole year. Spanish zarzuelas, or comic operas or operettas, are here given by the act, that 68 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK is, in the Spanish style. The audience leave the theater at the close of each act, and purchase tickets for the next, and so on until the entertainment ends. If, however, tickets have been purchased for more than one act, the holders keep their seats for the next act. Good Spanish talent is always to be seen at this theater. It has three galleries and seats 2,500 people. Teatro Marti.-A handsome summer garden and theater, in the block south of the Pasaje Hotel, and opposite Parque de Isabel La Catolica. It is very commodious and well ventilated. It seats about 1,200 persons, is used by home talent and balls are held there every Sunday. Teatro Cuba.-This is a small variety garden, at the corner of Neptuno and Galiano streets. It holds about 500 people. Teatro Lara.-This is a theater for men only. It holds about 600 persons. It is a one-act theater, like the Albisu, and ballet dancing is performed after each act. This theater stands at the corner of Neptuno and Consulado streets. The Alhambra.-A new theater, for men only, and nearly ready to open. It is situated at the corner of Consulado and Virtudes streets. er3 SI rj Q CL3 aj;sr D 1 r Q B ~1i~: I cs ka lli C.ii; ~""" (1~ I OF HAVANA AND CUBA 69 THE GARROTE. Having a letter of introduction from the war department to General Wood, I went the next day to the governor's palace and paid my respects to him. I was greatly interested in what he said to me about the political situation on the island. He impresses the visitor as being a man of quick apprehension, of great decision of character, and of great executive ability. I also had an interview with "Sam" Small, the editor of the Havana Journal. He talked with all the old-time force and originality which made him so famous in the States. He is thoroughly informed on all questions of public interest in Cuba, having had exceptional opportunities for acquiring information at first hand. I obtained the opinions of various classes of persons on the business, social and political conditions and prospects of the island. As we were to leave Havana on the following Monday, I took a hack to Mercaderes street, numero 22, where the office of G. Lawton Childs & Co., agents of the Plant line of steamers, is located, and selected a stateroom on the Olivette. It is a good plan to engage a stateroom, whether going to or from Havana, four or five days in advance, in order 70 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK to secure one in a desirable location. The narrow streets in that part of the city were crowded with carts and coaches, and at one point there was a blockade which caused a delay of ten or fifteen minutes. On some streets there are signs reading "up" and on others reading "down," thus indicating that, on those streets, vehicles can go only in one direction. In the afternoon I visited the Presidio, or penitentiary, and the Carcel, or jail. They are in the building known as the Presidio, at the foot of the Prado, opposite La Punta. The portion of the building devoted to the purposes of a carcel was built in 1830, while the presidio, or penitentiary part, was erected in I855, on the site of the old Royal Prison, built in I77I. The Presidio, under Spanish rule, was used as a royal prison and barracks. From this place the chain-gang, composed of political prisoners, clanked forth each morning to their daily toil. It is now used as a penitentiary. The Carcel is a common jail. The Presidio is a handsome three-story, yellowish-colored building. It occupies a square and a half, fronts the Prado on the west and La Punta on the north. There are a number of guards at the immense arched entrance to the Carcel on Zulueta street. After my exhausting efforts in Spanish of the previous O11 HAVANA AND CUBA 71 evening, I concluded to attempt to break into jail in plain English. My efforts in this direction were rewarded by one of the guards calling the "interpreter" of the Carcel, Sefor Bombalier. The latter came forward, and in excellent English invited me to accompany him. The immense iron grating at the entrance parted and we passed through the archway into the interior of the building. A passage-way surrounds a great quadrangular court. From this corridor open rooms and cells. At the time the American occupation began, January I, 1899, this prison was in a very filthy condition, but it was cleaned up at once, and presents a wholesome appearance. There are a cigar manufactory, a shoe-factory, a carpenter shop, a blacksmith shop and other work-shops for those prisoners who are skilled in some trade. Sefor Bombalier said that there were then 228 prisoners in the jail. We stepped into a vaulted room with a stone floor, one of a number of cells for solitary confinement. One of the half dozen prisoners who followed us about, talking in a lively manner as though something unusual was taking place, gave me a very handsome rose made of paper. I scattered a few pennies among them, and thereafter all manifested for me unmistakable signs of friendship. Sefior Bombalier took me to a part of the court 72 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK where there is a great stone trough filled with pure water. Here the prisoners can take a daily bath. Not far from this place there is another stone trough where the prisoners wash their clothes. The sunlight came into the court, and gave the surroundings a somewhat cheerful aspect. We then went into the kitchen. Large kettles stood filled with soup which was made of beans, mutton, and vermicelli. It was seasoned with garlic, salt, pepper and butter. I tasted it and found it very palatable. The prison bill of fare showed a dietary composed of a large variety of foods. In a room on the first floor, separated from the passage-way by an iron grating, stood that terrible instrument of execution-the garrote. Sefior Bombalier unlocked the iron door and we went into the room. A post, three or four feet high with a wooden block about a foot in length fastened to each side of its upper end, stands on a somewhat V-shaped box, in which the executioner keeps the implements needed in connection with his business. Near the top of the post, and projecting from it in front, is a short steel bar with two prongs, a kind of neck-rest with a protuberance on the inside of the hand which presses against the back of the victim's neck, and a part of the so-called iron collar. Slightly below, two longer parallel bars, with a steel OF HAVANA AND CUBA 73 bar swinging loosely from one of them, pass through the post, and are fastened to a collar, with grooves inside, enclosing a large screw, which latter passes through a hole in the post. This screw is a foot or more in length, and at its farther end, a steel bar extends back a foot. At the end of this latter bar, a cross-bar, or lever, two and a half or three feet in length, is attached. Two pieces of iron, slanting backward and upward from the post, about a foot and a half from its top, connect with the bar, to which the cross-bar is fastened, and support the former. A gigantic negro, black as ebony, was seated on a stool in front of the post and within the angle of the box. The stool was properly adjusted. The steel prongs closed about the man's neck, and the swinging bar before mentioned, was fastened in front of his throat. A turn or two of the lever brought the end of the screw near the base of the brain, drew back the steel bar in front of the neck, and thus the iron collar tightened upon its victim. Another turn of the wheel, and I might have witnesed an execution by the garrote. The projection at the back of the neck-rest strikes against the uppermost vertebra, thrusts the head forward slightly as the iron collar tightens, and snaps the spinal cord, causing instantaneous death. The prisoner 74 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK may, however, be tortured for hours, if it is so determined, by the alternate tightening and loosening of the collar. On this very stool had sat Narciso Lopez and had had his life extinguished at La Punta across the way. Hundreds of others, the distinguished and the humble, had felt the fatal pressure of that cold iron collar. When an execution is to take place, the garrote is fitted up on a platform twelve feet square and eight feet high. Seven steps lead to this platform. The prisoner, in a white shroud, a white cap on his head, with hands manacled, preceded and followed by priests, with a priest on either side, who prays for his soul, and surrounded by officials and soldiers, walks from his prison to the place of execution. His body, rigid in death, remains seated on the stool for twenty-four hours, to be gazed at by the public. During the ten years war, I868-I878, two brothers, Gaspar and Diego Aguero y Betancourt, born in the province of Puerto Principe, and belonging to one of the finest Cuban families, with 26 followers, were about to give battle to 5,000 Spanish soldiers. Their followers fled, but the brothers fired upon the advancing foe, killing General Balmaseda's bugler and one of his officers. Fired upon in turn by the Spaniards, Captain Gaspar OF HAVANA AND CUBA 75 was wounded and taken before the General, who had never been known to pardon a prisoner. Balmaseda offered to pardon Gaspar if he would join the Spanish army, but Gaspar refused. He was sentenced to be transported to Fernando Po, Africa. He was sent there, but soon made his escape and, after many adventures, found himself once more on Cuban soil, joined the insurgent army, was taken prisoner by the Spaniards, and met his brother Diego, who had been captured at the same time. Again Balmaseda promised them pardon if they would pledge their word not to fight against the Spaniards. They refused, and were sentenced to be garroted in front of the Carcel, at Havana. The two young men mount the scaffold. Diego seats himself on the fatal stool. Gaspar stands by his side, gives him words of comfort, and exhorts him to die like a brave man. And now, Gaspar sits calmly down to death. He looks around on the vast and awe-struck multitude. In a voice beautiful and clear, from the midst of the noise of drums and bugles, rise the words: "How awful it is to die unheard," and then, in clarion tones-"Vive Cuba Libre." None braver than Gaspar and Diego ever lived. Months after this scene, venerable General Domingo Goicuria, walks, hands tied, with firm step 76 NORTON S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK and head erect, to his death for Cuba Libre. He mounts the platform. Sixty-seven years have made his hair and long beard snow white. His countenance is angelic. Finding that his feeble voice can not be heard, because of the noise of drums and bugles, he looks first upon the immense concourse come to witness his martyrdom, then toward the North, then toward Heaven, smiles and sits down before the relentless instrument of death. At last Heaven heard his prayer, and sent the legions of the North for an answer. Has not Cuba purchased her freedom with the blood of such martyrs as Gaspar and Diego and Goicuria? Among the notable executions by garrote which occurred during the last war for independence, those of the Romero brothers were perhaps the most celebrated. Formerly executions by garrote, in Havana, took place at La Punta, but since the execution there of the bandit Machin, in I892, at which a panic took place, executions have occurred either at Principe Castle or at La Cabaiia. The last person to die by the garrote was Gamoneda, a desperate murderer. This was in I897. At present, by law, executions are to take place inside the Carcel. The Supreme Court, established since the military occupation of the island by the United States, the Audiencia of the province of Havana, and the courts o 1 * f Old Cty Walla, o *. i.~ i** ^. p. i g *, *" 5 *t i -.* r. *.,.* i '' ju g. l x..'.'.'''' '",f.'.5.% ' 9. '. ' ' '.. ' ''i '' 01-a3 I- I Eliji 39,Mf 1l '-~ 1 ~''. +'i ' 1XZ }.id.t~ IrZ1.~ $. '.3 itSS~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 1 _r f~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~~~r.i. ~~fk~rl~i. a~d Ca11 Pxs~dxeat Wot vr a avii OF HAVANA AND CUBA 77 of the First and Second Instance, corresponding more or less closely to our Circuit and County Courts, respectively, hold their sessions in the Presidio. Out of respect for the memory of Washington, there were no courts in session on the day I was there. The city is divided into thirty-nine wards and there are four judicial districts, known as those of the North, South, East and West, each district having a judge of the First and Second Instance and a Municipal judge. There are six election districts within the city. There is a police station, the Vivac, which is celebrated in the city's history, and which, perhaps, ought to be mentioned in this connection. It is situated at the corner of Empedrado and Monserrate streets, and was formerly the Cuartel de los Municipales, or Municipal Police Barracks. A military officer always presided over the court held in the Vivac. But last spring, at the municipal election, two correctional judges were elected to take his place. The court may impose fines ranging from five to thirty dollars, or sentence prisoners to thirty days in Atares Castle. 6 78 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK THE OFFICIAL EXECUTIONER. About midnight, June 20, I899, Senor Benjamin Hurtado, an "interpreter" for the Pasaje Hotel, at Havana, placed on board the transport Buford that historical instrument, heretofore described, the garrote. With him was Valentine Ruiz, the verdugo, or official executioner, at Havana. Valentine was afraid of being stoned by the people, and for that reason he left the jail at night. Senior Hurtado was the assistant manager of the Cuban village at the Omaha Exposition. Here the garrote was on exhibition during the months of July, August and September of that year. It excited great curiosity. The garrote was taken back and placed in the Carcel at Havana, in January of this year. Valentine, afraid to return to Cuba, remained in the United States. Valentine is a negro more than six feet in height, and is said to be the strongest person ever born in Cuba. He was a mechanic, and worked on a sugar plantation. He committed a number of murders, was at last convicted, and sentenced to hard labor in the Havana Carcel. The old executioner having served out his term as such, Valentine applied for the position, which he obtained. He was paid as OF HAVANA AND CUBA 79 official executioner $40 a month, and was to be paid $I7 for every person executed, but it is said that he never received any of this latter money promised him. After having, in the course of his official career, garroted fifty-seven persons, he was pardoned, but being afraid of his life, he was allowed to live at the Carcel. Valentine acted as one of General Weyler's escorts, when the latter took the field, and was often spoken of as his official executioner. Weyler presented a sword to Valentine which he wore at the Omaha Exposition, and which Sefior Hurtado now possesses. Valentine claimed to hate a coward, and if a prisoner exhibited signs of fear would often torture the victim by turning slowly the lever of the garrote. If the condemned bore himself firmly, Valentine quickly ended his sufferings. Prisoners often gave him their jewelry and money, at the same time begging him not to torture them. Avelino Cabrera, a murderer, sentenced to seventeen years of hard labor in the Carcel, has succeeded Valentine as verdugo. Avelino was saved from the garrote by pleading guilty of the crime of which he was accused. He is a negro thirty-four years old, about six feet three inches in height, and very muscular. He has served six years, and for good be NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK havior four years more have been taken from his sentence. He will have to serve as executioner for about seven years. He will be paid $8.50 extra for each person whom he garrotes. Avelino is not of a bloodthirsty nature like Valentine. He lives at the Carcel in a well-furnished room. Whenever he goes about the jail he has a strong escort, and is locked in his room at night to prevent the possibility of his being killed by the prisoners. OF HAVANA AND CUBA 8I OBISPO STREET. Thursday afternoon Mrs. Norton and I traversed the whole length of Obispo and O'Reilly streets. First we strolled through Parque Central, about half a block north of our hotel. This park is in the very heart of the city, and occupies two squares. There are beautiful laurel trees scattered through the park. The branches of these trees grow high up on the trunks, the foliage is very heavy, and of a beautiful green. Little triangular plots of shrubs, trees, flowers, and urns with tropical plants, adorn the park. In its center is a circular platform of stone with two steps, and on this base stands the pedestal which formerly supported the statue of the ill-fated Isabella II. During the troublous times of I875-6, in Spain, the populace of Havana dragged the statue from its pedestal with ropes, and in so doing broke off one of the arms. The statue was restored to its original position soon after Alphonso XII ascended the throne. In the early part of the present year it was again taken down and placed at the Fosos Municipales, fronting Punta Park, at the foot of Zulueta and Monserrate streets. The Spanish government requested of the military 82 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK authorities that the statue might be sent to Spain, which was done, the effigy, like its original, having experienced the resentment of an outraged people. The statue was erected in 1857 to commemorate the defenders of the island against the Lopez filibustering expeditions quite as much as to pay a tribute of respect to the Queen. The inscription on the stone pedestal reads: "Honor to the memory of General Ena and the braves that defended their Queen and country in I85I." Iron chairs are ranged around the platform, and scattered about the park. The fine police band of Havana plays here Thursday evenings and Sundays. Those occupying the chairs pay to the city concessionaire from two to four cents each, Spanish silver. At these concerts may be seen the wealth and beauty of Havana. East of Central Park a broad short street or square, with the Albisu theater a block on the right, opens into Albear Plaza, a little park lying between Obispo and O'Reilly streets at their western extremities. Palms, plants, shrubs and flowers beautify this Plaza, which is enclosed by a low stone curbing. In the center of the Plaza on a handsome pedestal, surrounded by a low iron fence of graceful pattern, stands the celebrated statue of a great and noble man-General Albear. A Cuban OF HAVANA AND CUBA 83 by birth, an engineer by profession, he became a brigadier-general in the Spanish regular army. To him Havana owes, in large measure, its supply of the purest water. Havana now receives its water from the Vento Springs, about 400 in number, situated nine miles south of the city. The springs are enclosed in a structure of masonry open at the bottom, 250 feet in diameter at its top, and 60 feet deep; their waters are brought to the city, by the Canal de Albear, or Vento aqueduct, which passes under the Almendares River, near which the springs are situated, are received at the deposito de las aguas de Vento in the suburb of Cerro, and thence distributed by pipes throughout the city. This work was begun in I859, is practically completed, and cost $5,030,000. In I566 construction of the Zanja, or ditch, was begun, and completed in I597. This connected Havana with the Almendares River at Husillo, about five miles southwest of the city. This Zanja was covered in a part of its course, but the water supplied the city through this means was very impure. In I835, the aqueduct of Ferdinand VII, from the Almendares River, at a point near Husillo, improved greatly the quality and increased the quantity of Havana's water supply, but was inadequate to the needs of the city. 84 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK In spite of many obstacles, General Albear brought his project for furnishing the city with an abundant supply of pure water to a successful issue. The Ayuntamiento, or City Council, at a special session held October 24, I887, unanimously decided to erect to the memory of General Albear, the statue which now adorns this Plaza. The workmanship is of the finest quality. The celebrated Cuban artist Saavedra was the sculptor. Several beautifully executed figures stand at the foot of the pedestal. A little to the south of the Plaza is the western end of Obispo, Bishop's, street. The first thing that attracted our notice as we entered the street, were the awnings stretched across it from the tops of the buildings on either side. This was as novel a sight as it was agreeable, for the sun burns fiercely down into the narrow streets. These awnings protect from its rays and from the rain. We had gone but a little distance when I found myself constantly stepping off the walk to allow the ladies we met to pass without discomfort along the ledge of stone, which by courtesy is called a sidewalk, varying from eighteen inches to two feet in width, in front of the stores. Signs in large letters were stretched across the street from the tops of the buildings, or, fastened to posts, appeared over the doors, and were of as varied a character and form ~~"~ii* ii;lial:~a.,l". ;':;~;"" """'.''" ~iii~ag~;::n;s ilrC~rxr il, ri~J~; LI~,,~~~1;Ea:,ji::Cll"nnl,,,,,i aB" llk1k m -asni, 111111113 *.i/-:: ""' ;ilLs-~~rls ~~~I',, i r~8 ~I,,;,i,.,,~~g~,,~~;a ~;it ~~; .3 s.,,,.L~ ai~.ilirri """'": 3:i """ ~~..1 ~"i~ ~lii ~i.;;~r. ~r;-;t;an iII 7~ ~s:-t~r irPiS illll GentsEaii PEfsf, II IEE:,t?l]lAI3,1+ 6f;iag aatrjl Fli%Xisu rfjl5lji3~]r" jfj OF HAVANA AND CUBA 85 as can be found in any of our large cities. In front of many of the stores signs read, "English spoken here." There was also the "fresh paint" sign, for the paint on casings, mouldings, panels and pillars of the stone buildings gets scratched and faded, and new coats of red, white, blue, yellow and green must be put on in order to give the buildings a handsome appearance. The first impression of the stores as one glances through the grated windows, for no glass is used, is one of disappointment. They look so small. But a little further observation shows such impression to have been erroneous, for one is surprised at the extent of some of these places. In the rear of the room or rooms used for the sale of merchandise, may often be seen a court with a fountain and flowers, and stone or marble stairways leading to a luxurious residence in the second and third stories. Obispo street has a large number of curio stores. Books, confectionery, notions, jewelry, dry goods, and a great variety of other articles attract the attention of the visitor. One of the most celebrated places in Havana is Carranza's Fan Store, II9 Obispo. Here fans of every style, and costing from five cents to $200, and, perhaps, in some cases much more, can be purchased. The designs of many are exquisite. Rare old Spanish fans, behind some of 86 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK which beautiful princesses and stately queens have shot fair glances at grandees and courtiers, are here displayed. There are several other fan stores on this street scarcely second in size and importance to Carranza's. Many ladies were shopping. Some came in carriages, and remained in them, where they inspected the articles which they wished to purchase, but many went into the stores. There were quite a number of American tourists from various states, like ourselves strolling through this interesting street, enjoying the sights and securing mementos of their visit. The cafes were full of people. On the north side of Obispo street, between San Ignacio and Mercaderes streets, in the old convent building of Santo Domingo, is the Universidad, or University of Havana. The next block east, on the same side of the street, is covered by the Governor's Palace, which faces the Plaza de Armas, or Military Headquarters, of the former CaptainGenerals. In the Palace, the Ayuntamiento, or City Council, holds its sessions. The Palacio General looks eastward over the Plaza de Armas, and is a handsome, yellowish, twostory building with a portico in front supported by clustered pillars. There is a court within, in which are plants and flowers. The Governor's office and OF HAVANA AND CUBA 87 reception room are on the second floor, reached by a marble staircase. The Plaza de Armas covers a square. It has four little gardens of flowers and plants and a row of fine trees just within the sidewalk which surrounds the Plaza. A statue of Ferdinand VII, facing the east, stands in front of the Palace. The pedestal, like the statue itself, is of Cararra marble, and bears an inscription in Latin expressing the affection of the people of Havana for their sovereign. The statue was erected in I833. The palace of the Military Governor of the city is on O'Reilly street, facing the Plaza de Armas; El Templete, or the Columbus Memorial Chapel, is on the same street, just east of the Plaza. 88 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK DRIVE TO COLON CEMETERY. Sefior Rodolf Betancourt, a gentleman belonging to one of the old aristocratic families of Cuba, of fine education and extensive travel, accompanied Mrs. Norton and myself the next afternoon on a drive about the city. We went south on the Prado along Parque Isabel La Catolica-a promenade lined with a row of Spanish laurels on either side, bordered on the west by the Prado and on the east by a drive. At Dragones street this Park ends, and Parque de la India, somewhat wider than the former, continues south two blocks, to Calzada del Principe Alfonso. In the center of this Park is the celebrated Indian statue, Estatua de La India. A marble base, whose four corners project from its body, rises high from the center of a fountain. A semi-circular arch, with a lion's head carved on the smooth surface enclosed by it, adorns the western face of the base. A handsome pedestal rests upon the base, on each side of whose four corners a great dolphin with tail issuing from just beneath the cornice of the pedestal, spouts water from wide-open mouth. The figure of an Indian maiden in the garb of a huntress, with a quiver full of arrows slung over her shoulder, a a 3 ~.~ ii, Bs;:i~r UX",,: BW ~j-rs -= i,,,!, "i -". IE~ LI~:si ii `S3 I 1J.,::;:~:i~: ,~-~i:n Be ii r;:Fa ~u. ii~~- fadiro k cnd rrzllo Oit~t;B o Gtrrr;rs fil, fle~c~, I OF HAVANA AND CUBA 89 cornucopia resting against her left arm, and a hound lying at her feet, is seated on a mass of marble at the top of the pedestal. An iron railing surrounds the basin of the fountain. The Indian maiden sits in serene majesty forever looking westward into unknown depths. Across the Prado, opposite the Indian statue, is Colon Park, occupying four large squares. It was formerly Campo de Marte, or military drill ground, and was surrounded by an iron fence with four handsome gates, named respectively Colon, Cortes, Pizzaro and Tacon. The fence and gates were taken down about six years ago, and a low wooden fence painted in white and blue colors was built around the grounds. Two wide avenues intersect each other at the center of the Plaza, where a fountain plays. This is a beautiful park and the largest one in the city. Many kinds of trees, shrubs, plants and flowers are enclosed in handsomely designed plots, while trees border the avenues. From Colon Park, we went west along Calzada de Reina, the most fashionable shopping street in Havana. This avenue opens into the grand Paseo de Carlos III, or de Tacon, as both names are applied to it interchangeably. The broad driveway is bordered on either side by a promenade, lined with double rows of trees. At the entrance to the Paseo 90 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK two tall columns, fluted for more than half their height and finely ornamented beyond, stand one on each side of the oldest statue in the city and one of the most celebrated pieces of the sculptor's art-the statue of Carlos III. This is the work of the great artist Canova. In I794 it was removed to the Prado at the Indian Park, but by order of General Tacon, some forty years afterwards, it was restored to the place where it now stands. The statue and the pedestal are of Carrara marble. The carvings on the dados are exquisite. The mouldings of the pedestal are plain and beautifully proportioned. The statue is majestic and, with the pedestal, reaches the height of the trees along the avenue. Near each walk two lions, reposing on tall pedestals, guard the entrance to the Paseo. Farther towards the west is the statue of the "Five Goddesses." Pretty fountains, but without great artistic merit, occur at frequent intervals along the Paseo. The drive along this magnificent boulevard is one which no visitor in Havana should miss. Palaces and villas are passed in succession, each with beautiful gardens. Not far from the western end of the Paseo we turned to the right, through a splendid gateway, into the Botanical Gardens and those adjoining, the latter attached to the Quinta de Los OF HAVANA AND CUBA 9I Molinos, or summer residence of the former Captain-Generals. All kinds of tropical fruits, flowers, plants, shrubs and trees are to be found in these celebrated grounds. The Botanical Gardens have for years belonged to the University of Havana, having been given to that institution for scientific purposes. Artificial waterfalls, grottoes and bowers make these grounds an earthly paradise. The entrance to the Quinta is between two rows of trees whose branches interlace. Little retreats, pavilions, statuary, graceful palms, rare plants and flowers make this an ideal country home. Here was the residence of General Maximo Gomez, for several months in the early part of I899, as the guest of the military authorities of the United States. In this elysium the aristocratic and the wealthy of the luxurious city, in former days, gathered in the late afternoons to promenade and to enjoy its beauties. At present, owing to the political troubles of the last few years, these gardens have a somewhat neglected appearance; but the avenue of royal palms compensates for all defects. It is worth going a thousand miles to see. The Hill of Principe, just west of the Botanical Gardens, stands at the foot of the Paseo. A calzada, leading to Colon Cemetery, leaves the Paseo de Tacon at this hill. It skirts the base of the hill, 92 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK and gradually ascends the rising ground to the west. There are a row of trees and a cactus hedge on each side of the road. Just after leaving the Paseo de Tacon, the Calzada passes the large private hospital, or casa de salud, La Integridad. The day-was simply perfect. Every object stood out in bold relief. The city lay back of us. Pretty villages, fertile valleys, broken by hills, crowned often with stately structures, graceful palms, fields of growing corn, trim little gardens, grazing cattle, streams winding through green pastures-such was the picture to the southeast. We passed neat Cuban farm houses and hamlets with their little stores and "corner groceries." When to the north and west the blue waters of the Gulf broke upon our view the whole scene was one of entrancing beauty. Soon we were at the Cementerio de Colon. W I~~~~~~~~~~~~M OF HAVANA AND CUBA 93 COLON CEMETERY. The gateway is of majestic 'proportions, and has three semi-circular arched entrances, the one in the center being the largest. The arch of each entrance has three recesses in front and three in rear, with a column standing in each angle. The mouldings of the three arches contain scroll, embattlemented and chevron work. The body of the gateway is granite, with projections where the two smaller entrances are placed, and the cornice is decorated with dentels and serrate ornamentations. The portion above the central entrance slants inward for a proper distance, as it rises, and then continues in a perpendicular direction, giving the appearance of a low square tower surmounting the gateway, embellished with columns and with cornice ornamented in a manner similar to that of the remaining portion. An acroterium stands in the center of this tower, and one on each side of it stands at the outer edge of the tower, on which are to be placed marble shafts. Above the central arch, both in front and rear, is a semi-circular panel, on each of which are carved figures and a landscape. We entered the cemetery, and went to the spot where the Maine victims were first buried. It is a 7 94 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK consolation to know that their bodies did not become a prey to the sharks which infest the harbor, and that their remains now repose in our own beautiful Arlington. We next visited General Garcia's tomb, soon to be replaced by one much more elaborate. Near by is the Students' Monument. Gonzalez Castanon, colonel of volunteers, was killed by the Cuban, Mateo Orosco. It was claimed that on November 25, 1871, some medical students of the University of Havana had broken into Castanon's tomb, in the Cementerio de Espada, and had scratched the glass on the coffin. The forty-two members of the class were arrested, but their innocence being shown, they were released. This enraged the volunteers. They procured the trial of the students by courtmartial. All were sentenced to death. Eight students were shot at La Punta November 27, I87I, the sentence of the remainder being commuted to imprisonment for life. Twenty years later Castanon's son, who came to Havana to take his father's remains back to Spain, stated that the scratches had been made by masons while repairing the tomb. The monument is of Carrara marble. On the pedestal, at the base of the shaft, stands Justice with broken sword and unbalanced scales on one side; on the other, History is pointing to the figure of Innocence, issuing from an open door below, bearing a OF HAVANA AND CUBA 95 scroll on which is written Truth. The top of the column is covered with a mantle, falling in graceful folds about the shaft. Both in design and effect this is a noble work of art. The sculptor has succeeded admirably in symbolizing sorrow, and the triumph of truth over error. The finest memorial in the cemetery, and, perhaps, as a work of art, the finest of its kind in the world, is the Firemen's Monument, erected in honor of the firemen who perished in fighting a great conflagration on the i7th of May, I890. Five steps lead to the top of the marble base upon which the pedestal rests. On the panels, between columns, in high relief, are carved, on the four sides of the pedestal, the busts of the thirty firemen whose bravery is commemorated. Another mass of marble rests on the pedestal, with four pillars supporting a thick slab having a pediment on each of its four sides, each pediment containing appropriate inscriptions. On the side of the shaft facing the avenue which passes the monument, is a disk with a star in the center, and in the circular band around the star are the words, "Habana, 17 De Mayo, I890." There are carvings of helmets, speaking trumpets, ladders, and the like. A battlemented cornice, on which rests a large octagonal piece of marble with carvings, terminates the column. A great cross rises 96 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK from this last piece, and resting against the cross an angel with wings outspread is supporting the lifeless body of a fireman. A beautifully chiseled figure sits at each corner of the pedestal, Faith, Hope, Love and Sorrow. Marble pillars project above its base, with ornamental iron railing between them. Appropriate inscriptions are carved in various places on the monument. It is all of pure Carrara marble and is the work of an Italian sculptor. The monument is very tall. If I am not greatly mistaken, I was told that it is one hundred and fifty feet high. It was completed in I897, and is nominally the tribute of the city of Havana to the memory of these brave men. Cubans and Spaniards alike joined to raise this magnificent shaft to perpetuate the martyrdom of these victims to their duty. Hundreds of other monuments of exquisite workmanship adorn the cemetery. Among them Gothic temples in miniature, most delicately ornamented, are to be seen on every hand. Italy has been most largely drawn upon for designs. From four o'clock until six, in the afternoon, is the time for burials. Here may be seen the magnificent funeral cortege, the modest procession, and the coffin borne on the shoulders of four stout negroes, for poverty cannot hire a hearse. In Cuba, the friends of the deceased are invited to the funeral. I St s Monment Colon Cmeer Freen's Monuent, ol C yemet. OF HAVANA AND CUBA 97 They come in their carriages. Women and children never attend funerals. They go to the house of the deceased, and pay their respects to the family. After the interment, the friends in attendance return to the bereaved family and shake hands with them in token of sympathy and friendship. In one part of Colon Cemetery is the celebrated "boneyard." We did not visit the spot, and should not have seen its ghastly contents had we done so, as it has been covered. A grave for one person in this cemetery for a term of five years costs $Io, and a grave for three persons costs for each person $3. The church duties in the former case are $8, and in the latter $4. At the end of five years, if the remains are not claimed, they are thrown by the cemetery authorities into the boneyard. Those who cannot afford to purchase a plot in the cemetery, for which must be paid 43.50 centenes, or about $225, but who are able to buy a coffin, themselves carry the remains in it to a large ditch and deposit it in this common grave. Those unable to procure even a coffin, and who do not wish to have the remains thrown into the boneyard, are allowed to take them to this ditch in a coffin loaned to them for that purpose by the cemetery authorities, but which they must return. The American Baptist Cemetery Association, whose cemetery is located a 98 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK short distance from Colon Cemetery, follows, it is said, the same rules in respect to its dead. Some American soldiers were accustomed to take skulls and bones from the boneyard, and to drive through the streets of Havana with them. General Brooke heard of this, put a stop to it and ordered the great hole to be covered, which was done. The Asiatic Cemetery, frequently called the Chinese, is a short distance south of the Colon. We left this beautiful city of the dead, and followed a rough cart track for some distance to El Vedado. OF HAVANA AND CUBA 99 EL VEDADO. This is a beautiful suburb of Havana, and is situated partly on a rocky elevation and partly on level ground between this plateau and the Gulf. The low land is but a few feet above the level of the sea, and is underlaid with coral rock. We descended from the plateau between villas and pretty houses, all of stone or marble, with grand views of the Gulf. Everything bore an air of comfort and luxury. The surf was breaking upon the coral rock, for there was a fresh breeze off the water. We stopped at the Hotel de Trotcha. This was for a long time General Brooke's headquarters, and was a residence for officers of the American army at the time we were in Havana. It stands on the level ground, and fronts on the Calzada de Vedado. Going into the building, we were shown through it by the wife of the gentleman who has charge of the place. Everything was neat and the rooms were cool and pleasant. We passed out upon a veranda extending along the west side of the building. In a great basin filled with water, there was an alligator five or six feet in length, sunning himself. The broad Calzada is lined on either side with buildings of stone and marble one, two, and, some I00 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK of them, even three stories high. The grounds surrounding most of them are very spacious. Many wealthy and fashionable people of Havana have residences in the Vedado. As we drove eastward the Calzada approached the shore. We passed several batteries. The breakers came rolling in and dashing themselves against the coral ledge, throwing up airy clouds of spray which floated off in rainbows. The range of hills extending from near the shore southward to Principe Hill rose before us like a rampart. Coral rock was being placed along the drive, and a great steam-roller, the first, it is said, ever seen on the island, was crushing it down. We passed limestone quarries, quanteras, then Santa Clara Battery on our right, a little farther on the Lepers' Hospital, and opposite, at our left, the old round tower, El Torreon. We curved about the Inlet, Coleta, of San Lazaro, and struck the Calzada, Ancha del Norte. On the left of the Calzada, immediately to the east of the inlet stands the Queen's Battery. Soon we came to the public baths, on some of which men were at work. These baths, banos, are four in number and are all on the Playa de San Lazaro, or Beach of San Lazaro. Their names are: Campos Eliseos, San Rafael, Las Delicias and La Revoluci6n. The Faoe of Cathedae Empdrdo street, avana OF HAVANA AND CUBA 10I Campos Eliseos are the best and most fashionable. These baths are carved out of the coral rock, and the pocetas, or pools, of the largest ones are about I8 yards long by 6 wide and 4 deep. The water in them is at no time deeper than 6 feet. The pocetas of the smaller baths are about I8 feet long by 12 wide. The end of each poceta nearest the Gulf is about 6 feet from the water. Two openings in this end, about 9 feet long by 6 feet wide in the larger baths, and about 4 feet long by 2 feet wide in the smaller, allow a constant inflow and outflow of the water, which is thus at all times kept pure. When the tide is low there is little water in the pools. For that reason bathers generally wait until full tide, which rises to a height of about two feet, so that the pools will be well filled. Light frame structures are built over the pocetas, which are taken down when the bathing season is over, and kept safe until the next season, when they are placed in their former positions. The water outside of these baths is probably from 30 to 40 feet deep. Sharks have never been seen in any of the pools, although they often come near them, but swim away to avoid being dashed by the waves against the honeycombed coral rocks. The "season," La Temporada de Banos, begins 102 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK about the first of June and closes about the middle of October. A single bath costs 40 cents; 20 baths not "reserved" cost $2.50, and 20 baths "reserved" cost $5. These prices are in Spanish silver. Baths reserved for the whole season for the use of all the members of a family cost 15 centenes, or $79.50. Just beyond the Campos Eliseos baths is a small arm of the Gulf where draft horses are driven in and washed. It seemed to me that they take some chances with the sharks. We drove by La Punta fortress. It was in front of this fort that the eight medical students whose monument we saw in Colon Cemetery were shot. Opposite, are the Presidio and the Carcel, and a little east of the latter, the small circular Parque de La Punta, with its eight walks, and as many ornamented plots of ground, in which there is a fine monument to Neptune. A block southeast of the Park is the Morgue or Necrocomio, and a little farther on the church of Santo Angel, at Monserrate and Cuarteles streets. Two or three blocks farther along we reached the Columbus Cathedral. ~~`~ niii3 ~ ~~i ~il i"iB i;~~ 8~,..li..:,::..,:::::u 1.. '"i "i~~" "Li ~ wl~w:~ ~i;,E lir Iii 6Eai ';":"~ '"t~ ~ iC s~t siis.ililIi' s ~I. "" ;:;8~~-,, ~-ii Fi:~. ili:i...,. ~~I~~:~~~-~~~~~ ~~i I~ ~i~1 IICcxliOr C~rttdrlQLzeall-(irrzloa mllt;ir, OF HAVANA AND CUBA 103 THE CATHEDRAL. Seminario de San Carlos extends along the east side of San Ignacio street, from Empedrado street to Chacon street. This seminary building presents a very massive and weather-beaten appearance. In connection with it and adjoining it on the east, stands The Cathedral, whose full name is Catedral de la Virgen Maria de la Concepcion. Several steps lead to the three doorways of the Cathedral, which fronts on Empedrado street. On either side of each of the doors stands a column with elaborate cornice above its capital. Several other columns ornament the lower part of the faqade and several more, its upper portion. There is a niche on either side of the middle and larger door, and three niches in the upper story. A moderate-sized, semicircular quatrefoil window with square shoulders between the arches, adorns this story, and there is a small window above each of the two smaller doors, of the same general character with the larger window, but its arches are only slightly curved. A tower consisting of several stories, rises from the ground at each corner of the Cathedral front. The eastern tower is the larger. There are bells in each story. The Cathedral belongs to the Latin-Gothic style of architecture, and is built of coral rock. 104 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK The interior of the Cathedral is ornate. Two rows of massive columns separate the nave from the aisles. These columns are highly polished mahogany of the finest variety. Their capitals are bronzed. The rich vault impresses by its lofty height. The floor is composed of moderate-sized marble blocks, which are arranged after the reticulated pattern. From the nave three marble steps lead to the chancel, or choir. Three marble steps also lead from the marble pavement of the chancel to the grand altar, whose base is composed of various kinds of marble, from which rise eight Corinthian columns supporting a dome, both columns and dome being of polished porphyry. This altar stands in the center of the choir. A marble block, supporting a globe, stands in the center, and on this globe is a beautiful figure with hands clasped in prayer, the statue of the Immaculate Conception. There are side-altars and service-tables. Back of the high altar is a reredos or screen, with handsome panels, heavy cornice, supported by fluted pilasters, and a Greek porch with acroteria, on which are placed finely carved images. Beneath the porch is the bishop's throne. The cornice of the screen is surmounted by a crest of candelabra, between which ornamental marble slabs stand, whereon busts of the apostles are carved. The pulpit is adorned OF HAVANA AND CUBA 105 with delicate tracery. Candlesticks of beautiful patterns stand on the altars, on the service-tables and on fluted Ionic columns. In the chancel are mahogany stalls for the priests. One of the very interesting objects of the Cathedral is the Chapel of the Virgin of Loretto, commemorating the legend of the transportation by angels of the house wherein was wrought the mystery of the Incarnation, from Nazareth to the mountain of Tersato, in Dalmatia, thence a few years later to the territory of Recanati, into a forest belonging to a lady called Loretta, and shortly afterwards to the spot, a short distance removed, which it now occupies, where the village of Loretto has since sprung into existence. The interior of the Cathedral presents an array of costly and beautiful objects. The walls are frescoed, and the spandrels of the arches of the vaults are ornamented with vignettes and other kinds of delicate tracery. It is often called the Columbus Cathedral, but this appellation properly has no other significance than to designate the place where reposed for a century the remains of the discoverer. Columbus died at Valladolid, May 2o, I506, and his body was deposited in the convent of San Francisco in that city. In I5I3, his body was transported to Seville, and in the year 1536, his remains, with those of his son Diego, were removed to the prin io6 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK cipal chapel of San Domingo, Hispaniola. December 20, I795, the bones of Columbus were taken from the leaden coffin, which had been deposited in the wall on the right side of the altar of the Cathedral, and placed in a case of gilded lead, about twenty-two and a half inches in length and breadth and about fifteen inches in height. This case was secured by an iron lock and key, and was inclosed in a coffin. On the following day, this coffin was put on board the ship San Lorenzo, which immediately sailed for Havana, where it arrived January I5, 1796. Amid much pomp, after the safe transportation of the remains had been authenticated, they were deposited in a niche or vault in the wall, on the right side of the grand altar of the Cathedral of Havana. A marble slab, on which was carved the bust of Columbus, sealed up the vault. On this slab is the following inscription: 0 Restos e' Imagen del grande Colon! Mil siglos durad guardados en la Urna, Y en la tremembranza de nuestra Nacion. Translation: Oh, rest thou, image of the great Colon, A thousand centuries remain guarded in the urn, And in the memory of our nation. .Leaden Casklet in which Remis of Coumu were N' he inf~ij, Cahedrawhr iColn -eposited in Nlehe in Wan of Catbedml. were deposk6& Bust of Columbus. L kt IhR t ~~~ b he Wall~~tedi ire~~ol h a Dpt~N X~" l p Bt' OF HAVANA AND CUBA 107 Above the marble slab which sealed up the tomb is a beautifully carved wreath of flowers with a knot at the top from which two ribbons hang gracefully down, whereon are carved the words: La Ciudad de la Habana a. C. Colon, I2 Octubre, 1892. The City of Habana to C. Colon, October 12, 1892. Some years ago the "Tumba Monumento de Colon," or Columbus Monument, was erected in the Cathedral. It stood about twenty feet from the main entrance, and faced the grand altar. A very large granite pedestal, perhaps three feet high, supported at each of its four corners a noble figure with crown on head and alb falling about the feet. Over the shoulders of each of the two foremost figures hung a cope with flowing front, on one of which was carved a castle and on the other a lion, representing Castile and Leon. On the shoulders of these four figures rested a marble bier of handsome design, over which was a pall of elaborate pattern. The remains of Columbus were taken from the niche in the wall of the Cathedral and placed in this bier. At the close of the Spanish-American War, in I898, they were taken to Spain on the cruiser Conde Venadito. Nothing except the pedestal of this monument is left. Io8 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK The foundations of the Cathedral were laid in 1656 and the structure was finished in I724. It was used by the Jesuits for a college until 1789, when they were expelled from the city, and their church became the Cathedral of Havana. It marks the site of a church erected in I5I9. Solemn high mass is celebrated in the Cathedral every Sunday. Our next point was El Templete, The Little Temple, or Columbus Memorial Chapel, opposite the Plaza de Armas, between O'Reilly and Ena streets. It is a little white chapel in the Grecian style of architecture. On the walls of the anteroom hang three great pictures. The one on the left shows Columbus taking formal possession of the island of Cuba and swearing the allegiance of the Indians to his sovereigns. The picture on the wall facing the visitor as he enters the room, portrays the reception of Columbus at the court of Spain after his first voyage. The picture at the right commemorates the celebration of the first mass in Havana. These paintings are by Murillo. A handsome fence encloses the little yard in which E1 Templete stands, and in one corner of this yard is a large Ceiha tree, marking the very spot where the first mass was celebrated in Havana in I519. The Ceiba tree under which the first mass was said was cut down in 1753, and its off-shoot, in 1828. -~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~rEl Temlplete, or Columbu Memorial Chapel, Showi~ng Ceiba Tree on the. Left. OF HAVANA AND CUBA I09 The off-shoot of this latter is the one which now marks the spot. A sprout is always kept growing, to take the place of the tree destroyed or removed. The site of the present city was first visited by Captain Sebastian Ocampo, in I508, who called the place Puerto Carenas. On July 25, 1515, Don Diego de Velasquez founded a city on the southern coast, where Bataban6 stands, which he called San Cristobal de la Habana. In 1518 this city was removed to the mouth of the Almendares, or Chorrera River, where the town of Chorrera is situated, four miles west of Havana, and was called Pueblo Viejo, or Old City. A few months later, in 15I9, it was transferred to its present location and its former name of Havana was resumed. It then had 50 inhabitants. Havana was authorized to call itself a city in 1592, at which time its population was 14,000. We were very fortunate in gaining entrance to this celebrated chapel, as it is open to the public but once each year, and very few visitors ever view its interior. It was built in 1528 by Colonel Antonio de la Torre y Cardenas. Here, on the 25th of February, 900o, the newly-appointed bishop of Havana, Bishop Sabaretti, received the miter, the crozier and the episcopal robes; prayers were said, and a grand procession marched to the Cathedral, where the closing ceremonies of his investiture took place. 8 110 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK CHURCHES. Besides the churches already sufficiently described, Havana has a number of others interesting from their historical associations, interiorly beautiful and exteriorly impressive. Belen Church and Jesuit Convent.-This church and group of buildings, occupying nearly or quite a block, are at the corner of Compostella and Luz streets. Bishop Diego Avelino de Compostella had built, in his private garden, in I695, a church called San Diego de Alcala. The present group of buildings was erected in I704. The Franciscan monks of this church maintained a free school in Havana up to the latter part of the last century. In I854, the buildings were given to the Jesuits, who established the Royal College of Belen. The walls of this building are from ten to twelve feet in thickness. The observatory is one of the best in Cuba. It has a fine collection of coins, medals, shells and a museum of natural history. The church has a high altar, a side altar, a sacristy and vestry back of the latter. Its floor is of marble. San Augustin.-This is one of the oldest churches in Havana —dating from I608. It is situated at OF HAVANA AND CUBA III the corner of Teniente Rey and Cuba streets. It is a long stone building with a high tower. Santa Clara.-This church is on Cuba street, between Sol and Luz streets. It was founded in I644 and is connected with the largest and wealthiest nunnery in Cuba. Santa Catalina.-This church is on O'Reilly street, at the corner of Compostella street. It was built in I698, and dedicated in I700. The bodies of the martyrs, Celestino and Lucido, were brought as relics from Rome and deposited in this church. Santo Domingo.-"More men go to the church of Santo Domingo than to any other because more pretty women go there." It is situated at the corner of Mercaderes and O'Reilly streets. San Felipe, located at the corner of Obrapia and Aguiar streets, has a large library. Las Mercedes, at the corner of Cuba and Merced streets, is elsewhere described at length. These churches are richly decorated, and some of their statuary and images are adorned with costly ornaments and jewels. There are a number of other Catholic churches but those just noticed are the most interesting from the historical point of view. There are several Protestant churches in Havana located at the following places: 112 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK Baptist, corner of Dragones and Zulueta streets. Dr. Diaz is the pastor. Methodist Chapel, 120 Consulado street, between Animas and Trocadero streets. Rev. George N. MacDonnell, pastor. Episcopal Chapel, at 5 Zulueta street. Mission of the Church of Christ, at 63 Prado; Rev. Lowell C. McPherson, pastor. OF HAVANA AND CUBA II3 CENTRO ASTURIANO. From the Templete, we drove east one block on Ena street, and south along San Pedro street, past Muelle Cabellaria, Cabellaria Wharf, and Muelle Carpineti, to the Plaza de San Francisco. Here is the Custom-house, formerly the monastery of San Francisco. This vast stone structure possesses the highest tower and is one of the oldest buildings in the city. The cells, quadrangles and cloisters can yet be seen, as also the paintings on the ceilings. When the English captured Havana in 1762, it became the Protestant church, but when the city was restored to Spain, in 1763, the building was not allowed again to be used as a Catholic convent or church. On the harbor side of the building is Custom-house Wharf, Muelle de San Francisco, and immediately south of the latter, Muelle Machina. From the Custom-house we were driven through the lowest quarter of the city to the Casa de Recojidas, or Prison for Abandoned Women. It is on Compostella street, between Fundicion and O'Farrill streets, and is only two blocks from the harbor. It is a long, one-story building of coral rock For many months the beautiful Sefiorita, Evan 114 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK gelina Cosio y Cisneros, a victim of Weyler's cruelty, was confined here among the most degraded creatures. The story of her escape from this place, on the night of October 6, 1897, accompanied by her rescuer, Mr. Karl Decker, a reporter for the New York Journal, is familiar to the public. We went around into Calle O'Farrill, and viewed the little house upon whose roof Miss Cisneros climbed, by means of a ladder reaching from the parapet of the prison to the roof of the house. We drove along Vigia street, and out upon Egido street, the route taken by Mr. Decker and Miss Cisneros in their flight. Coming out upon Zulueta street, we went north until we were opposite the Pasaje Hotel, which faces on that street as well as on the Prado. Here are two or three vacant squares surrounded by a fence. Debris of various kinds was strewn over the ground. At a corner of one of these blocks, crumbling here and there into ruins, is all that is left of the old walls of the city. The last place visited wasthe home of the great club, Centro Asturiano. Its furnishings are splendid. It has a well-selected library of 5,000 volumes, and occupies several floors. The staircase is of Mexican onyx, but the most notable feature, perhaps, is the great dancing hall, with its polished marble floor OF HAVANA AND CUBA ~ II5 and magnificent chandeliers. These latter were imported at a cost of $II,500. The club spent $35,000 in merely fitting up its ball room. This is L-shaped and capable of accommodating a thousand couples on the floor at the same time. A corridor extends the full length of each side of this ball room. The ceilings of the corridors are supported by handsome Corinthian columns, upon whose central portions are delicate carvings. The entablatures of these corridors are beautifully ornamented. Rooms open from the inner corridor. Splendid chandeliers depend from the ceilings of these passageways. Great square, sunken panels, whose sides are finely decorated but whose central portions are perfectly plain, adorn this noble room. At the angle of the L there is a dais. A few evenings after this visit, we attended a masked ball at this place. The floor was crowded with dancers, some with and some without masks. The scene was brilliant. The dances were, most of them, of a rather stately order. Ten thousand members, among whom are several hundred Americans, enjoy the hospitality of this magnificent home. I 6 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK CLUBS. There are numerous clubs in Havana, some of them with large memberships and luxurious appointments. Many of them seem to be conducted somewhat on the mutual benefit plan. Some account of the more important ones will here be given. The Union Club.-This club has its home, which looks out upon Parque Central, in a building at the corner of Neptuno and Zulueta streets. It has upon its list of members the most distinguished men in the island. While Spaniards and Americans, and perhaps men of other nationalities, belong to this club, its affairs are controlled wholly by Cubans. Most of the former Captain-Generals of the island, since its organization about twenty years ago, have been members. The club has a reading room, library, cardroom, billiard-room, bathroom and restaurant. It is a purely social organization. There are two classes of members, a comparatively small number who vote on questions relating to the conduct of the affairs of the club, and a much larger number who, while having all the benefits and privileges of the society, have no voice in regulating its policy. El Casino Espafiol.-The Spanish Casino is on the Prado a few blocks from the north shore. Only Centro Astarisno-BaiE ll Room~l, Zulueta Stre4Opposite Cntral Par, Havana."~ OF HAVANA AND CUBA II7 peninsulars, persons born in Spain, can become members of this club. Even their children born in Cuba are excluded from membership. It has a beautiful club-house, with marble halls, fine paintings and all the accessories which wealth and luxury can provide. Many masked balls and social fetes take place within its walls. The membership is about I,200. Centro Asturiano.-This club is, in some respects, the most interesting one in the city. It occupies several floors in the Albisu Theater Block, on Zulueta street, opposite Central Park. The club was organized more than thirty years ago. It has a membership of over Io,ooo. The club spent $35,000 in fitting up its great ball-room. The chandeliers in this hall are imported, and cost $ 1,500. There are schools kept up by the club for the benefit of its members. A special class has been organized for the American members, who wish to learn Spanish, over 400 of whom have joined since January I, I899. The club has an annual income of about $23,000. Not very long ago it purchased the Quinta de Leonor Herrera, country-seat of Leonor Herrera, in Cerro, and converted it into a fine private hospital for the use of its members. This is a most beautiful place. 18 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK The grounds are very large, and are adorned with gardens and fine trees. Splendid hospital buildings stand in the center of the grounds. The entrance to the buildings is through avenues of royal palms and laurel trees for a distance of half a mile. Pavilions have been erected in various places. Each ailment has its separate department. The rooms for the sick are light and airy. No more than four patients are kept in one room at a time, and most of the rooms are for but one person. The sanatorium is the finest in the island. The building is constructed of coral rock and marble. The ceilings are about sixteen feet high. The kitchen is very large, has all the modern improvements, and the cooks are the best that can be procured. The very best physicians are in attendance. The surgical instruments employed are the latest and of the most approved character. Since the opening of the sanatorium fouryears ago,the books show 1,337 sick, 1,177 of whom have been sent away cured; 5,423 consultations, and 145 operations performed, all of which were successful. The attending physician is the celebrated Dr. Bango. This Quinta is called "La Covadonga." To become a member, all that is necessary is to apply to the secretary, who takes the name and the address of OF HAVANA AND CUBA II9 the applicant. In a few days the collector appears and is paid $I.50 Spanish silver. After a month has elapsed, the new member is entitled to all the benefits of the society. These are entree to the balls or concerts given every fifteen days, and a right to attend the schools of the club, whose sessions are held at night. The society elects a president, a vice-president, a secretary, a treasurer and a committee of 40 members, which holds its meetings each week. Centro Dependientes.-This club is quite similar in its organization and objects to those of the Centro Asturiano. It has a membership of I2,000 and has its own beautiful hospital called "Purissima Concepci6n," on Alejandro Ramirez street, Jesuts del Monte. The club's home is in the building in which the Centro Asturiano is situated, and is next to that club's rooms. The Centro Dependientes is the clerks' club. Havana Yacht Club.-This is the oldest club in Havana. Its club house is very fine and is located at Marianao. Other clubs are: Club Antillano; Carridad del Cerro, a very aristocratic society; Sociedad del Vedado, the Sport Club; Centro de Artesanos; Club San Carlos; and the German Club. The colored people have two societies, one called Centro Cocinero and the other, Divina Carridad. These latter have schools for the children of their members. 120 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK The Catalan Club.-Many years ago the sons of the province of Cataluna, Spain, organized this club, erected a beautiful club house, and spent a large sum of money in building a wall around the Hill of Monserrate, about a mile south of Principe Hill, and in ornamenting the grounds enclosed for pleasure purposes. The place was to be similar to the fairy grounds on the Hill of Monserrate, in Cataluna, Spain, dedicated to the Virgin, the patron Saint of the Catalans. The club has either disbanded or is nearly broken up, and its lovely structures and grounds are almost in ruins. OF HAVANA AND CUBA 121 HOSPITALS AND ASYLUMS. There are several excellent hospitals in Havana. Some are government institutions; some are under the direction of church societies; some are maintained by the benefit societies or clubs for their own members, like that connected with the Centro Asturiano Club, and some are private hospitals. Reina Mercedes Hospital.-This is perhaps the best institution of its kind in the city. It is situated between El Vedado and Principe Castle. It is a civil institution. Under the direction of the Department of Engineers this hospital is to have an electric light plant, new floors, a new system of plumbing, and is to be improved in other respects. Hospital de San Lazaro.-This hospital is on San Lazaro street and fronts on the Gulf. Its location is excellent, and the buildings are handsome. This institution is maintained by the municipal government, but was built with money contributed for that purpose by Cubans, all of whom are dead. The hospital is an institution for the care of lepers, and is divided into two sections, one for men, the other for women. There are nearly 200 cases of leprosy in it. There are 6o female lepers, and the 122 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK remaining cases are those of men and boys. It is under the care of forty Sisters, who are never allowed to leave the institution. The place is kept scrupulously clean. Its medical corps is excellent. At the head of the hospital is a physician director. While some of the patients are pitiable objects to look upon, all of the inmates, it is said, appear to be happy. They laugh and chat gaily with one another. Some years ago, in a meeting of distinguished physicians held at Havana, some expressed the belief that leprosy is contagious. But a majority declared it to be hereditary, and adduced as a proof of this assertion the fact that, of the forty Sisters, who, for twenty years, had taken care of these unfortunates, not one had the least taint of leprosy about her, and that all were rosy and healthy. If a healthy person and a leper marry, it is quite likely that their children will never show any signs of leprosy, but the next generation will surely be lepers. In the whole history of the building, there has been but one case of suicide, that of a Chinaman, who threw himself from the roof of the building and was killed by the fall. Military Hospitals.-The finest military hospitals are situated at the foot of Principe Hill. These are occupied as hospitals for American soldiers. These OF HAVANA AND CUBA i,5 123 -hospitals were well conducted under Spanish rule. The buildings are large and imposing. There is a Hospital Militar on Diaria street fronting the harbor. The remaining institutions are private "quintas" or are connected with the various clubs and social organizations of the city. ASYLUMS. Of these, the most noteworthy is the Casa de Beneficia, whose full title was La Real Casa de Beneficia y Maternidad, established about I790, on Belascoain street near the Gulf. It is an immense building, and is an almshouse or asylum for old and infirm persons, for orphan and destitute children, and for the insane. Asilo de San Jose, on San Lazaro and Soledad streets, is a reformatory for boys. The Casa de Recojidas, corner of Compostella and O'Farrill streets, is a place where female convicts and abandoned women are confined. There is an asylum for aged men at 442 Calzada del Cerro; St. Vincent de Paul, for girls, is at 797 Calzada del Cerro; Home for Aged Men and Women, at 3 Buenos Aires, Cerro; Orphan Asylum, at 129 Cuba street, and the Society for the Relief of Children, at 77 San Ignacio street. The Mazoera, or Insane Asylum, about nine or ten miles from the city, near Vento and the Al 124 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK mendares River, is a very fine institution with handsome grounds. It is reached by taking the Villanueva Railroad, at the Villanueva Station, corner of the Prado and Dragones street. Wr.*n.::~ ~~i ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~~t g crl c: cJ OF HAVANA AND CUBA I25 OTHER PLACES OF INTEREST. There are other drives, parks and places in and about Havana which deserve notice. La Alameda de Paula extends from the foot of Paula street along the harbor to the foot of Luz street. It is bordered on one side by Officios street, here called Paseo de Paula, and by the Paula Wharf on the harbor side. In its center there is a fountain, from which rises a marble column adorned with national emblems and trophies. At the Paula street end of the park is Paula Church, while farther west fronting the harbor are the Almacenes, or Magazines, of Havana, Almacenes Hacendados and Almacenes de San Jose, with their wharves. At the other extremity is the Plaza de Luz. From the Luz Pier the ferryboats of the United Railways of Havana ply across the harbor to Fesser Station, Regla, and from this pier also the ferryboats of the Cuban Electric Company run across the harbor to its station at Regla. The Herrera Docks are immediately north of Plaza de Luz. Adjoining these on the north is the Muelle Machina, Barge Office, or Landing Place. One of the prettiest plazas in the city is that of San Juan de Dios, at the corner of Aguiar and Empe9 126 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK drado streets. Cortina de Valdes extending along the channel, sometimes called River of Havana, from the foot of Empedrado and Mercaderes streets to the foot of Chacon street, is a paseo and park. Parque de Trillo occupies a square at the corner of San Rafael and Aramburu streets, and Almendares Park, or the baseball grounds, is situated on Carlos Tercero. A fine drive may be taken along the Calzada del Monte and Calzada del Cerro, through the suburb of that name, and through Tulipan. There are many beautiful residences to be seen along the route. At the terminus of Calzada de Palatino, some three or four miles southwest of Plaza de Armas, lies Quinta de Palatino, about half way between the Vento Canal, to the east, and the Aqueduct of Ferdinand VII to the west. In the old days this country seat was a center of wealth, beauty and fashion. It is approached along an avenue of royal palms about a mile in length. It is also known as "Las Delicias," and was the scene of splendid entertainments and banquets given by an aristocratic and wealthy Cuban, with the title of Conde de Pozos Dulces. The place is now nearly in ruins and the palace is used for a school of Puentes Grandes. Another famous country residence is that of Quinta del Obispo 6 Peialver, a short distance west OF HAVANA AND CUBA I27 of Tulipan. It is about three or three and a half miles southwest of the Plaza de Armas, and is reached by the Marianao Railroad. It was, long ago, the residence of the Bishop of Havana. It is now almost in ruins, and broken statues, shafts of columns and moss-covered stones lend an air of antiquity to the place. There are still to be seen cascades, swimming pools, fountains and little lakes. A stream also runs through the grounds. Playa de Marianao, on the coast, seven miles west of Havana, and two and one-half miles north of Marianao, is a fashionable seaside resort. There are music and dancing at the Playa every Saturday during the summer. It is reached by the Marianao Railroad. Regla, across the harbor from Havana, is a city of 11,363 inhabitants. Here are the great sugar storehouses, or Almacenes de Regla, and a large bull-ring. Ferry boats run from Luz Pier to Regla. The tourist will be amply repaid for a visit to that quaint old city with an Indian name, Guanabacoa, about two and a half miles east of Havana. It is beautifully located among hills, and is one of the healthiest cities in the island. The mineral baths of Santa Rita are much patronized by residents of Havana. Its population is I3,965. The Cuban Electric Railway runs from Regla to Guanabacoa. 128 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK Cojimar is a summer bathing resort at the mouth of the Cojimar River, and lies about three and a half or four miles northeast of Plaza de Armas and about two and a half miles north of Guanabacoa. Stages run from Guanahacoa to Cojimar. One end of the cable to Key West terminates here. Some nine miles south of Morro Castle is a hill which rises to a height of 732 feet, with two round hummocks, called Tetas de Managua, or Managua Paps. Fifteen miles southeast of Havana is the remarkable cave of Cotilla. Lake Ariguanabo, twenty miles southwest of Havana, is about six square miles in area, and lies among high hills. The Rio San Antonio, or Ariguanabo, which drains Lake Ariguanabo, disappears beneath a great ceiba tree in San Antonio de los Bafios. One of the most interesting places to visit is the city of Matanzas, about sixty miles east of Havana. This city has a population of 36,374 persons. About three and a half miles from the city are the wonderful caves of Bellamar, three miles long, and beautiful with crystal walls and immense stalactites. Here, too, is the famous valley of the Yumuri. "The valley of the Yumuri, which is situated in the province and near the city of Matanzas, has the reputation of being the most beautiful in the world. OF HAVANA AND CUTBA 129 It is a combination of mountains and ocean inlets and a river, and a broad plain of exquisite loveliness, and it is the scene of many romantic stories and much pathetic history."' Another interesting city to visit is Pinar del Rio, I I3 miles west of Havana, in the center of the Vuelta Abajo district, celebrated as producing the finest flavored tobacco in the world. Cienfuegos, Batabano, Giiines, and Santiago de Cuba are frequented by many persons visiting Havana. 1 Murat Halstead, "The Story of Cuba," 485. I30 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK CUBAN INDEPENDENCE DAY. Saturday, February 24, 900o, was ushered in with the noise of firecrackers and the booming of cannon. On February 24, I895, near Manzanillo, Bartolome Maso proclaimed the independence of Cuba. The eastern portion of the island at once rose in revolt against Spanish rule, and thus was inaugurated a rebellion which terminated in Cuba's separation from Spain. In this manner Cuban Independence Day had its origin. We strolled through Central Park, visited a great market near the Park, and watched the people, subdued, I thought, in their manner of celebrating so important an event, owing perhaps to the fact that the American government was in control of the island, and to the uncertainty existing in their minds as to Cuba's future. There were baseball games, horse races and cockfights. These latter are no longer allowed in Havana, as the Ayuntamiento, or City Council, issued an order, which took effect July I, I900, prohibiting this sport. Cock-fighting is as dear to the Cuban heart as bull-fighting is to the Spanish and as prizefighting is to the American. The insular Spaniard now has to forego the pleasure of his favorite pastime, for General Brooke, at that time Military Gov OF HAVANA AND CUBA I3I ernor of the island, on October io, I899, issued an order prohibiting bull-fighting under a penalty of $500 for its violation. It is not thought that the Cubans will revive the sport. Cock-fights are held every Sunday at Marianao. The first bull-ring in Havana was built in I796; but the first bull-fight there took place at the Plaza Publica, in 1759, in honor of King Charles III. About three years ago the large bull-ring in Havana was burned. There is one at Regla, across the harbor, which holds about four thousand people. We went to Central Park towards evening. A dozen children were romping and playing ringaround-a-rosy about the pedestal on which had rested the statue of Isabella II. We were sitting in iron chairs watching the children and the people, when a park officer came and collected a medio real, five cents, for each chair. Later in the evening there were fireworks. The park and the city around were brilliantly illuminated. There was an immense crowd, and carriages blocked the streets enclosing this plaza. Roman candles were fired, rockets shot skyward, pinwheels revolved, and some set-pieces had been touched off, when we felt a few drops of rain. The sky had become entirely overcast. We started for our hotel a block distant. A thick mist came down, 132 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK and we were glad to reach the shelter of the Payret Theater and Pasaje arcades. The air grew cool, and it seemed as though we were to have a drizzling rain. But soon the crash of thunder and the flashes of lightning became incessant. The rain came down almost in bucketfuls. The wind blew with violence. We were not very much disturbed by the storm, which lasted the greater part of the night, as our room opened upon the arcade running through the central part of the hotel from front to rear. Such was Independence Day in Havana, February 24, 900o, and such its ending. ~ 4 11~ Thitoror of Las Mercedos Churoh. OF HAVANA AND CUBA 133 THE CARNIVAL. The next morning it was quite cool. I found a light overcoat none too warm on the street. According to the Havana Journal, Monday, February 26, 900o, the coldest day of the winter in Havana was Sunday, January I4, and the next coldest day was Sunday, February 25. The thermometer, as reported by the United States weather bureau, registered on the latter day 55~ above zero. I saw a few ladies wearing fur capes that day. The rainfall of the previous night was.42 inches and the wind blew at the rate of 30 miles an hour. The thermometer rarely goes below 55~, and almost never goes higher than 90~, in Havana. The mean annual temperature is 780 for the hottest month and 70~ for the coldest. The atmospheric humidity averages something over 80 per cent at all seasons. There are rarely more than twenty rainy days in any month, and the average is from three to ten days. As we were to leave Havana on the following day, we must procure health-certificates within twenty-four hours of our departure, and as I had been told when I selected our stateroom on the steamer a few days before, that the best time to obtain the certificates would be early on Sunday, we I34 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK went to the Health Office, 22 Mercadares street, that morning. We were there before any others on like mission came in, and as we were both able to show vaccination scars, we soon had the necessary documents. A health certificate from the authorities of Havana is as complete an identification of its possessor as could possibly be desired. To.expiate the sin of which we had just been guilty, we drove to Las Mercedes Church, corner of Cuba and Merced streets, and heard mass. This is the richest and most aristocratic church on the island. Its exterior is handsome. A tower rises from its roof, three stories in height. The last story is surmounted by a dome supporting a belfry. The church was built in I746. Its interior far surpasses any intimation of beauty gained from its outward appearance. A cupola rises over the place where the nave and the transept intersect and another over a chapel in the rear. The grand altar is wonderfully elaborate, with its tabernacle and dome, missal stand, crosses, candlesticks, and other usual accompaniments. There are fine oil paintings; that of the "Last Supper" is considered perfect. The statue of the Virgin on the altar is adorned with jewels valued at $70,000. There are handsome frescoes and finely carved figures on the walls. OF HAVANA AND CUBA I35 Confessionals of mahogany are ranged along side the walls in various parts of the church. There are several chapels. Fine statues on brackets and in niches add to the beauties of the interior. A marble floor of variegated pattern, foliage and scroll-work, is one of the most noticeable features of this edifice. Its pews are cane-bottomed chairs ranged in rows. The music at mass was exceedingly fine, the service impressive, and, though this is the most aristocratic church in Cuba, many communicants who evidently did not belong to the wealthy class were in attendance. After returning from church to our hotel, we took a walk north through Parque Central, and on to the Spanish Casino, which faces the Prado. Seeing persons engaged in decorating the interior with flags and green boughs, we stepped inside, and were politely asked if we would like to go through the club rooms. We were shown about this splendid place. The corridor, with its polished marble shafts, its magnificent chandeliers, its mirrors, and its numerous fine portraits of illustrious Spaniards, is worth going a long way to see. In the afternoon we went to that part of the Prado extending from Central Park to La Punta, about a mile in length, to see the driving. We strolled down to San Lazaro Beach, where the break 136 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK ers were rolling far upon shore, and watched the spray breaking over Morro Castle. The sea was running high from the effects of the storm of the previous night. We went back to the Prado, where large numbers of people were assembling. It was the first day of the carnival season. Three days are given over to all sorts of merrymaking. This portion of the Prado consists of a central promenade, perhaps a hundred feet wide and several feet high, which is enclosed within a retaining wall. Steps lead up to the promenade. Just within the retaining wall, is a row of Spanish laurel trees on each side of this grand walk. The promenade is bordered by a fine driveway, probably fifty feet in width. Along the broad top of the wall, iron chairs were placed for those who wished to watch at their ease the driving. For these seats a real, or ten cents Spanish silver, was paid. Soon carriages and vehicles of various sorts began to come into the Prado from all directions. Their occupants wore masks of different patterns, some handsome and some grotesque. The maskers generally wore bright-colored costumes. There were some splendid equipages, and there was one low yellow-painted automobile in the procession. There were many horseback riders, whose horses, OF HAVANA AND CUBA I37 gaily caparisoned, had their tails braided and fastened to the saddles with ribbons. Soon the riding and driving became fast and furious. Vehicles and horsemen circled round and round the promenade, while on the latter, groups of boys in masks and clownish costumes went up and down, turning handsprings and performing other acrobatic feats. Streams of people walked back and forth chatting gaily and enjoying themselves in an unrestrained manner. The sidewalks, balconies, windows, and even the roofs of the buildings along the Prado were filled with spectators. Some of them participated in the gaieties by throwing paper streamers and confetti, but this was indulged in rather sparingly, as the Civil Governor of Havana, Senior Nunez, had issued, some time before, a proclamation restricting the people to the hours between six o'clock in the morning and six o'clock in the evening for masking on the streets, and had prohibited the throwing of any material which might inflict bodily harm or soil garments. In former days people had sometimes been injured, and their clothes had been ruined by being covered with flour and other substances thrown in merriment. Several bands played along the Prado. In the evening there were mask-balls at the theaters and clubs. 138 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK HOTELS. The Pasaje.-This hotel is on the east side of Parque de Isabel La Catolica, and is only half a block south of Central Park. The Payret theater adjoins it on the north. An arcade or central passage way extends from the front of the building to the rear on Zulueta street, and from this passage-way, pasaje, the hotel takes its name. It is the largest hotel on the island, is four stories high and has one hundred and fifty rooms. It was erected in I87I and is the only building in the city constructed strictly for hotel purposes. The first story is 25 feet in height, the second story, io feet and the third and fourth stories are 20 feet each, in height. The upper story has recently been added, and is in the oriental style of architecture, its ornamentation being exquisite. It has fifteen rooms with baths. The rooms are large, double rooms all en suite, and are lighted by electricity. It has an elevator, an electric light plant and all the modern improvements. It is built of limestone and granite and its floors are all of marble and mosaic. It is in the very heart of the city, and from its roof can probably be obtained a finer view of Havana and the surrounding scenery than from any OF HAVANA AND CUBA I39 other place. The well-known and accomplished interpreters, Sefiors Alvarez and Hurtado represent the hotel at the steamer landings. This house has for many years been the favorite hotel for Americans. Here General Grant, General Sherman, Ex-President Cleveland, William K. Vanderbilt, the Count of Paris, and many other famous persons, have made their temporary homes while in Havana. The Inglaterra.-This fine and well-known hotel is on the west side of the Prado, and fronts Central Park. Across San Rafael street, on the south, is the Tacon theater. The Inglaterra is three stories in height. A fine colonnade extends around the two sides of the building fronting on the Prado and San Rafael street. The pillars are very massive. It has about eighty rooms. This is also a favorite hotel for Americans, but does not, like the Pasaje and several other hotels, employ any Englishspeaking help. The Telegrafo.-Adjoining the Inglaterra on the north, the Telegrafo faces Central Park, and some of its rooms look out on San Miguel street. Its location could hardly be better. It is a two-story building, and its apartments are furnished in the latest style. Its table is excellent, and its help all speak the English language. It can accommodate 140 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK about one hundred and fifty people. Its interpreters meet passengers at the steamers. The Mascotte.-This is a Spanish hotel, but is frequently patronized by Americans. It fronts the harbor at No. 35 Officios street, and is rather too far from the parks, theaters and other places of amusements, to suit many visitors. Its rooms are large and fine, and its grounds very handsome. It accommodates about two hundred people. The Louvre.-This is a finely furnished hotel at the corner of San Rafael and Consulado streets, and is run on the European plan. The prices of these hotels, during the winter season, are from $3.50 to $5 a day, American money. La Perla de Cuba, La Isla de Cuba, American plan, No. 45 Monte street; La Francia, The Washington, American plan, Prado near Central Park; The United States, American plan, Amistad and Dragones streets; Hotel Thrower, No. 24 O'Reilly street, American plan; The Florida, American plan, No. 28 Obispo street; and the Roma, American plan, No. I6 Monseratte street, will each accommodate from one hundred to two hundred persons. Their charges are from $I.50 to $2 a day in Spanish gold, except that the American hotels just named make their prices in American money. There are some excellent restaurants and good ~rl ~6 ii i CY.:.: II ii ilVffLjll I~flnrl Itcttcl Iicjaij~r IILbr -~; ~~~ ~iu~a,.,,,, S)bxlllla. ItaOTI1, Pqe afiea, I"1VSI;, OF HAVANA AND CUBA I4I boarding houses. The best way for those who expect to be in the city for a considerable time, and who do not wish to make their homes at a hotel during their entire stay, is to go to a good hotel for a few days, and there obtain a list of desirable boarding houses. Both money and anxiety will be saved by following this plan. 10 142 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK NEWSPAPERS. There are more than one hundred newspapers, daily and weekly, in Havana. As a general thing, it may be said that these papers hardly conform to the American idea of newspaper enterprise. The following are the more important papers. El Nuevo Pais.-This was the official organ of the late Autonomist party. Its editor is Senior Ricardo Delmonte, one of the strongest writers on the island. It has the support of men like Seniors Montoro, Govin, Varona and other well-known Cubans. It has about IO,ooo subscribers. El Diario de la Marina.-This is one of the oldest newspapers in the island. It is the Spanish liberal organ, and was the official paper of the late Spanish Government. It has always been on the side of good order, and has refrained from the radical views which some other papers have often advanced, frequently thereby leading the masses to riot and crime. It has about 20,000 subscribers. Its editor is Senor Nicolas Rivero. La Lucha.-This paper is in some respects the most important one in Cuba. It is supposed to be the best dispenser of news. It is an evening journal. Two pages of each issue are printed in the English language. Its circulation is very large. In politics, OF HAVANA AND CUBA I43 it supports the Cuban National party, but is liberal in tone. Senor Antonio San Miguel is the editor, Mr. E. W. Guyol having charge of the part in English. La Discusi6n.-This is an important journal. It is the official organ of the Republican or radical party. It has among its supporters men like Senior Juan Gualberto Gomez, General Sanguilly, and others of that class. Its editor and owner is Senor Manuel M. Coronado. La Nacion.-This paper is the official organ of the Union Democratic party. Three columns of each issue are printed in English. General Enrique Collazo, one of the ablest writers in Cuba, is its editor. El Figaro.-This is a weekly illustrated journal, and is ably conducted. Seiior Manuel Pichardo, the editor, is a gentleman of wide culture, and a facile writer. The Havana Post.-This is the only American daily newspaper on the island. It is a wide-awake journal. Its editorials, written by Dr. Charles E. Fisher, formerly of Chicago, are specimens of vigorous English. It is intensely American. It succeeded to the Havana Journal and the Havana Herald, American newspapers published in Havana for nearly a year after the American occupation began. 144 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK The circulation of the Post is rapidly increasing. Sefior Casanova, a Cuban, and Mr. Ernest Lee Conant, an American, are the proprietors. Both are gentlemen of much ability. Another paper of much interest to Americans is "The Cuban Financier and Havana Advertiser," published weekly at 76-78 Cuba street, in both English and Spanish. This paper is specially devoted to matters of interest to the tourist and settler, immigrant and investor. It was established in October, I898, just previous to the change of flag in Havana, and is edited by Mr. George Eugene Bryson, former chief of the New York Herald's LatinAmerican bureau at Panama, and an expert upon Cuban, Central and South American affairs. Mr. Bryson is also editor and proprietor of "The Cuba Immigrant," a fortnightly review of Cuban matters of interest to the tourist and settler; office 76-78 Cuba street, Havana. It is a five-column folio. This publication is approved by the military government of Cuba, and by the Secretary of Agriculture and Superintendent of Immigration for Cuba. Other papers which may be mentioned are "La Patria," "El Cubano," "Avisador Commercial," "Commercial Journal," "El Commercio," the retailers' organ, and "Union Espafiola." OF HAVANA AND CUBA I45 CIGAR FACTORIES. Havana is known the world over as containing the largest cigar and cigarette manufactories in existence. This industry is, by all odds, the most important in the city. Of the I20 large factories, without taking into consideration numerous small ones, only a few will be mentioned. One of the largest factories is that of La Corona, owned by an English syndicate. It is a fine four story building, and stands at the corner of Reina and Amistad streets, facing Colon Park. It possesses historical interest. From I86o to I868 it was the palace of Miguel de Aldama, a Cuban hero who was proclaimed President of the Republic, by the Cuban convention, in I868. A Spanish friend informed him that the Spanish Volunteers were about to attack the palace and slay him and his family. One night in November, I868, he fled with his family and took steamer for New York, where he died six years later. The Volunteers, finding the palace deserted, broke the great mirrors and destroyed the fine paintings in the palace, together with furniture valued at $Ioo,ooo. Beautiful paintings are still to be seen on its ceilings, and its floors are of the richest marbles. The factory employs about 450 cigarmakers, and 146 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK about 200 young ladies for the cigarette departments. The English syndicate purchased the plant last year for $800,000. This syndicate is known as the Henry Clay & Bock & Company, Limited. It has a paid up capital of $7,000,000, and controls thirteen cigar factories and an equal number of cigarette factories. The general offices and sample rooms of the company are at the corner of O'Reilly and Cuba streets, Havana. There is an American syndicate, known as the Havana Commercial Company, with a capital stock of $20,000,000. This company controls eleven cigar factories, which it purchased at a cost of $3,870,000. The handsomest and best cigar factory building on the island, is owned by Calixto Lopez & Co. It occupies a square, is at the corner of Zulueta and Gloria streets, and faces the Arsenal. It is a stone building and was erected in I888. The brands of this firm date back for fifty years. They employ about 500 cigarmakers. Their cigars are sold all over the world. They have a cigarette factory attached to the cigar factory employing about 200 young women. Their cigarettes are among the best, as the tobacco used in them is the clippings from the Vuelta Abajo district. They own two large tobacco farms in the Vuelta OF HAVANA AND CUBA I47 Abajo district. They are also wholesale tobacco dealers. They were offered $650,000 by each of the two trusts already named, but refused to sell. Among their most celebrated brands are those known as El Eden and Flor de C. Lopez. La Escepcion factory of Jose Gener, maker of the celebrated brand of Hoyo de Monterey, is situated at the corner of Zulueta and Reina streets. It has four floors, employs about 550 cigarmakers and about Ioo cigarettemakers in its cigarette department. Another great firm is Suarez Murias and Company, manufacturers of the celebrated brand of La Flor de Suarez Murias Co. Their building was originally the palace of Marques de Villalba, No. 2 Ejido street. Later, and until recently, it was the Spanish Casino, and afterwards the Senate and Congress building during the Autonomist regime. Its interior finish is of marble and fine mosaics. Franklin Mathews, in his "New-Born Cuba," tells of an admirable custom which has been in vogue for many years among the larger cigar factories of Havana. Twice a day a person, chosen because of his fitness, reads selections from the standard works of fiction, history, biography, travel, science, and so forth, to the employes of the factory. About half an hour is thus spent at each session. I48 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK EDUCATIONAL, FINANCIAL, ETC. At the head of the educational system of Cuba stands the University of Havana, Universidad de la Habana. It is located in the convent building of San Domingo, on Obispo and Mercaderes streets. The cloisters and quadrangles of the building, more than three centuries old, are still there. The University has five faculties: The Faculty of Sciences, of Philosophy and Belles-Lettres, of Pharmacy, of Medicine and of Law. Including a preparatory period of two years, it requires a period of six years to obtain the degree of licentiate, or bachelor of arts, from the University. Its courses of study are very numerous and comprehensive. In order to follow the notarial profession, a course of four years in law, political economy, treasury institutions, commercial law, and theory and practice in the preparation of public documents, is required. As many as two thousand students have attended the University in some years. Havana has, also, a school of Painting and Sculpture, Escuela de Pintura y Escultura, an Economical Society, Sociedad Economica, and a Public Library, Bibleoteca; all located in a building on Dragones street, between Rayo and San Nicolas streets. The Alule Teaml -aindeal. die 6 Iend O(-l 'P, OF HAVANA AND CUBA 149 Conservatorio de Musica, or Conservatory of Music, is on Dragones street, immediately east of the building just mentioned. There is a Technical School of Arts and Trades, No. 32 Empedrado street. The branches usually taught in the public schools of the United States, are taught in the public schools of Cuba. The city of Havana has 20I school rooms. In 1899 there were in Havana 42,11 children under ten years of age of whom 9,98I attended school; of those over ten years I0,792 attended. The total number of those who attended school last year was 20,673, or 33 per cent of 62,833, the total number of children in Havana between the ages of five and seventeen years. There are about 6,000 children in the city who attend private schools. The North Amercian Trust Company of New York City, 27 Cuba street, is the fiscal agent of the United States Government in Cuba. This company is putting up a five-story office building at Officios, Lamparilla and Baratillo streets. The building will have a very large entrance, and a court, with a fountain and flowers. There are to be safe-deposit and savings-bank departments. Other leading banking houses are: J. Balcells, 43 Cuba street; J. A. Bances, 21 Obispo street; N. Getals, o08 Aguiar street; Zaldo & Co., 76 Cuba street; G. Lawton Childs & Co., 22 Mercaderes street; L. 150 NORTON S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK Ruiz & Co., 8 O'Reilly street, and H. Upman & Co., 3 Amargura street. The Spanish Bank of the Island of Cuba is located at 8i Aguiar street. This is a very old and wealthy institution. The Bar Association of Havana numbers five hundred members, having its headquarters at 2 Mercaderes street. The leading express companies of Havana are: The Southern Express Company, Pan American Express Company, and the Wells-Fargo and Adams Express Companies. A Spanish-American Company owns the gas works. The chief office of this company is in New York. The same company owns an extensive electric light plant. Both are situated near the harbor at Tallapiedra and Florida streets. There are three ice plants and one brewery in the city. There is a very good telephone system, the Red Telefonica. Its central station is at 5 O'Reilly street. Havana has a well-drilled, efficient police force of about i,ooo men, composed entirely of Cubans. This force was organized early in I899, by John McCullagh, ex-chief of police of New York City, assisted by Col. Geo. M. Moulton, of Chicago. Prior to this time, there were 300 municipal police, appointed by the City Council, to enforce the city or OF HAVANA AND CUBA 151 dinances; 300 government police, appointed by authorities of the province, and 1,200, belonging to the orden publico, who were really soldiers.1 These policemen, as a general rule, are neither so tall nor so heavy as the average American policeman. Their uniform and equipment are very similar to those of the police in the American cities. The police headquarters are at 82 San Isidro street. The Fire Department of Havana consists of two branches, the Municipal, and the Commercial. The former is partly supported at public expense. The latter, with the exception of the drivers and the engineers, who are paid by private contributions, receive nothing for their services. The department has five first-class fire-engines. There are 78 alarm stations and 356 fire plugs throughout the city. The headquarters of the Bomberos Municipales, Municipal Firemen, are at Zulueta and Apodeca streets, those of the Bomberos del Commercio, Commercial Firemen, front Parque Central, at the corner of the Prado and San Jose street. Many of the best citizens belong to the Commercial branch. The members of the latter must be at least twenty-one years of age and have to furnish their own uniforms. Many heroic deeds are performed by them, and Havana is very proud of her firemen. 1 Franklin Mathews, "The New-Born Cuba," 380. 152 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK LIFE IN HAVANA AND IN CUBA. SOCIETY IN THE CAPITAL. While there is at the present time much gaiety in society circles and numerous receptions are constantly occurring among the fashionable people of Havana, it is, nevertheless, largely true that much of the splendor of former days in the aristocratic life of the capital is lacking. For this condition the last war for Cuban independence is, undoubtedly, responsible. Nearly all of the young men who were the leaders of society in the great city, joined the ranks of the insurgent army. Havana's best families gave their sons, and in many cases their husbands and fathers, to the revolutionary cause. This is also true of the other cities and of the whole island. An erroneous impression prevails in the minds of many Americans that the Cuban army was composed almost wholly of desperate and worthless characters. This impression is due to the misleading articles of some newspaper correspondents, and to statements in some histories, so-called, of the Cuban revolt and the Spanish-American war, written with evident desire rather to laud the American OF HAVANA AND CUBA I53 soldier at the expense of the Cuban patriot, than to give the facts. In the insurgents' ranks there were, as there always have been in the armies of all other nations, desperate and worthless men, but in the main, the Cuban army was composed of the island's best blood. A very large number of these young men did not live to return to the club room and to the salon, where they had been leaders among the wealthy, the fashionable and the distinguished. The land was in mourning, many were impoverished as the war progressed, and society became, in large measure, disorganized. Previous to the breaking out, in 1895, of the last war for independence, fashionable society in Havana was divided into two sets,-the Spanish coterie and the Cuban circle. The leader of the former was Conde de La Mortera, Count of Mortera, a Spaniard, and of the latter, the Countess of Fernandina. The Count, twenty years ago, arrived in Cuba from Spain, with his worldly possessions tied up in a large handkerchief. By force of natural talent, by dint of hard work and by the aid of army contracts, he became, in a few years, a multi-millionaire. The entertainments given by the Count were magnificent. The Countess of Fernandina had long been at the head of society in the capital, when the Count of Mortera appeared on the scene. Her early married I54 NORTON S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK life was spent in Paris during the brilliant days of the Second Empire. She was a welcome visitor at the Tuilleries and at Compiegne, while the entertainments given at her mansion on the Champs Elysees were the sensation of all Paris. Napoleon III and the Empress Eugenie were often her guests. The ten-years war for independence, 1868-1878, considerably reduced Count Fernandina's fortune. He and the Countess returned to Havana, and lived at their beautiful villa in the Cerro. The Calzada del Cerro passes by this estate, which is so situated as to command a splendid view of Havana and the Gulf. The house was furnished with luxurious taste. Its marble floors, frescoed walls and painted ceilings, its ample grounds, with a garden of tropical flowers and plants, made this home one of the finest, if not the finest, on the island. Here the Countess held grand levees, gave great balls and entertained in a style not excelled, and perhaps, not equaled anywhere else in the world. Many others, like the Marques Ploclamaci6n, the Marquise of Balboa and the Marquise of O'Reilly, then figured prominently in society. But those days are gone. Still, Cuban society, like everything else Cuban, seems to have great recuperative powers, and there are signs of a revival of something like the old splendor. Cubans, Spaniards and Ameri OF HAVANA AND CUBA:r55 cans mingle together, sometimes, in the social gatherings of the day. In the other large cities of Cuba, society exhibited much the same characteristics found in that of the capital. Wealth and luxury, elegance and taste, were everywhere seen. Among the rich planters and country gentlemen, there was considerable social intercourse. The hospitality of Cubans has become almost proverbial. To admire in a special manner an article belonging to one's host, is immediately to have it offered as a gift. To refuse the present would give offense. To offer a Cuban gentleman money by way of reimbursement for any outlay made by him in doing a favor, or as compensation for time and trouble spent in the matter, would be regarded by him as an insult. The opera is the principal society event during the winter season in Havana. The boxes are nearly all owned by the prominent families, who purchased them over fifty years ago when the Tacon theater was built. These boxes have passed from father to son, as a sort of heirloom. THE CUBAN LADY. There is a fascination about the word "seforita" that is irresistible. It sums up, to most persons, all 156 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK that is coquettish, graceful and beautiful in woman. It pictures to the imagination a bewitching face, half-hidden behind a fan of exquisite pattern, eyes that sparkle like jewels or melt in tenderness, at their owner's will, a form whose every movement is grace itself, dainty feet in bespangled slippers, a hand perfect in its proportions, and dark lustrous tresses falling over fair shoulders. Women of the Spanish race, the world over, have been noted for their beauty, and those of Cuba are no exception to the rule. But not all senioritas are beautiful; some are commonplace in appearance, and a few, a very few, are positively homely. As the senorita grows into the senora she, not unnaturally, loses that sylph-like quality of form that distinguished her as a sefiorita. The Cuban matron, however, retains her good looks much longer than some writers on the subject would lead one to suppose. A young lady must never appear alone in public. Her mother, or a chaperon, always accompanies her on a drive, or when promenading in the park or on the paseo. The habit of powdering the face is very common, and is often carried to excess. The women of the higher class dress in good taste. I was surprised at the number of dark colored and black costumes OF HAVANA AND CUBA I57 worn by the ladies in Havana, as I had supposed, from what I had read, that Cuban ladies wore only the most gaudy colors. Many ladies, especially the younger ones, were dressed in white and some were seen in bright-hued toilets. One of the most common articles of dress is the mantilla of lace or other similar material. Ladies, in many instances, ride in their carriages late in the afternoon, and promenade in the park or along the paseo, without any covering upon their heads. Nature supplies the Cuban woman with a luxuriant growth of hair, which she arranges in becoming fashion. At home she attires herself in thin white or light colored fabrics, as most comfortable and suitable to her surroundings. The Cuban woman among the wealthier and well to-do classes, learns to embroider and becomes skilled in fancy-work. She spends her time at home in reading, in light sewing, and often in a listless manner. After the heavy breakfast, or midday meal, comes the siesta, and usually not until about five o'clock in the afternoon, does she leave the cool court-yard with its fountain and its flowers, for the drive along the fine avenues and the fashionable shopping streets. In Havana, however, it is a common thing to see, in the early part of the day, a row of carriages on 11 158 NORTON S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK either side of Calzada de la Reina, each equipage with one or more fair occupants, examining and purchasing, without the inconvenience of alighting and entering the store, such articles as necessity or fancy may dictate. The Cuban lady, it is said, smokes cigarettes and cigars, the latter much less frequently than the former.' The mother is solicitous of her children's welfare, and is at home with them, supervising in various particulars, their education, their manners and their morals, while the father passes much of his time, except the few hours devoted to business, at the club. In the homes of wealthy country gentlemen, there is such modification of the routine of life in the city as would naturally be expected from the difference of environment, and, on the whole, there is more domesticity in the country than in the city among the educated and wealthy. THE CUBAN GENTLEMAN. The life of a Cuban gentleman is one of ease. He rises at ten o'clock, takes his bath and is served with a cup of coffee. After this he has breakfast. 1 Since writing this sentence I have been informed by a Cuban gentleman, who certainly should be good authority, that a "Cuban lady does not smoke," but that a few "old women do." OF HAVANA AND CUBA I59 He goes to his office about one o'clock in the afternoon, and his work is finished at three. He returns home, takes his siesta, and then prepares for dinner and the opera or the dance. Fencing is one of the chief points of a man's education. Young men and old spend from two to four hours each day practicing with the foils. Many are masters of the fencing art. A duel is rarely fought in Cuba, without at least one of the principals being seriously hurt. One of the largest fencing classes is held at the Union Club, and it was at this place that a celebrated French fencing master was defeated by several Havana swordsmen. Cubans never walk, if they can help it, a fact which accounts for their rather ungraceful gait. Very few ladies ride horseback in Havana. The reverse is true of the men, who are expert horsemen. The carriages and liveries are Parisian, English or American. CUBAN COURTSHIP. After a young lady becomes engaged, she no longer attends social functions, but remains at home, where every evening she receives her future husband, who is expected to let no day pass without a visit to the prospective bride. The young I6o NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK couple are never left alone. As a rule, engagements are very long, covering a period of from two to six years and rarely less than one year. The first steps in a love affair are carried on secretly, in spite of the watchfulness of the mother or of the dueAa of the girl. Once engaged, the behavior of the lovers betrays the fact to their friends, as from that time forward, they conduct themselves after the conventional manner of betrothed couples. Weddings invariably occur at night. After marriage a young couple rarely go to balls or dinners, until one or two months have elapsed. The jilting of a young lady by her lover, is a thing almost unknown in Havana. Only an unexceptionable excuse, in such a case, would save the young man from dire punishment at the hands of an irate father, brother or cousin.' RESIDENCES AND BUILDINGS. Many of the fine residences are over stores, especially on such streets as the Prado and Calzada de la 1 It may not be out of place to remark here that a Spanish-born son or daughter takes the names of both parents in families of any consequence. Thus: Salvador Cisneros y Betancourt signifies that the name of Salvador's father is Cisneros and that his mother's maiden name was Betancourt. The y, pronounced ee, is the conjunction "and" in English. It takes the place of the hyphen in English, to designate two surnames. OF HAVANA AND CUBA Reina. One sees through the great open doors courts within, flowers, perhaps fountains, and staircases leading to the upper stories. Within these homes evidences of luxury and refinement present themselves on every hand,-statuary, costly paintings, books and all that a cultivated taste could desire. The rooms are large, the floors of marble or tile. In the poorer quarters of the city, the people are huddled together in small rooms, and live under the most unsanitary conditions. Havana is without any proper system of sewers. It is probable, however, that this greatest defect of the city will be remedied within a reasonable time. In many cases, even in the homes of the wealthy, the stables, with horses, cows, and poultry, adjoin the living rooms. In the less thickly populated portions of the city, in the smaller places and in the country, the homes of the wealthy are often surrounded by spacious grounds, with gardens, flowers and trees. A patio, or court yard, with its fountain and flowers, surrounded by a quadrangular porch, offers a pleasant retreat from a tropical sun. Piazzas extend along the front and sides or rear of the residence, according to its situation. These are often protected from the sun by canvas or shutter awnings. The poor live in huts thatched with palm leaves. I62 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK The first story of the buildings in the business part of the city is usually very high, thirty feet being a not uncommon height. Many buildings have porticos, and colonnades surround some. In the narrow streets of the old portion, these are not common. There are massive double doors to each store, very high, and windows without glass, on each side of the doorway, often of the length of the door. The shutters are thrown open during the day, but an iron grating prevents entrance through the windows. The buildings are of stone or stucco, painted in bright colors, white or yellow, with blue, yellow, or red stripes on the panels of doors, posts, and portions of the front wall. LIFE IN A GREAT HOTEL. Our room was on the third floor of the Pasaje Hotel. It opened upon a stone balcony which ran around the court. Standing on this balcony we could look down into the arcade, passage-way, or pasaje, extending through the central portion of the hotel, from the Prado in front to Zulueta street in the rear. There were tables in the arcade, at which men sat, drank, smoked cigars and discussed the questions of the day. Across the arcade, there were the barberia, or barber-shop, the cigar store, etc., and the "American OF HAVANA AND CUBA 163 Exchange in Havana," where the tourist could obtain all sorts of information about hotels, boarding houses, and other matters of interest, and from which place excursion parties to various points were organized. Our room was twenty feet high, with great open rafters of mahogany. There were two brass bedsteads, over each of which was the inevitable canopy of mosquito netting, a large, marble-top dresser, a wardrobe, a marble-top stand, two rocking-chairs and two other chairs, a commode and a rug. The floors throughout the Pasaje are marble. The furniture was all in good condition and made of mahogany. The large, double door was probably sixteen feet high, with a transom reaching well toward the ceiling, Opposite the door was the great double window, as large as the door, opening out upon the balcony. On the outside were heavy wooden shutters, just within, great wooden frames for each half of the window, in which were openings, but no glass, and lastly an inside set of heavy shutters. The window frames and shutters were fastened by bolting at top and bottom and a latch in the middle, the door by bolting one half, locking the other and sliding a bolt across both. We never felt the slight I64 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK est insecurity. Blue was the prevailing color in our room. There was a sort of sub hotel-office on the third floor, where two or three young men sat at a table, looked after the interests of the hotel on the upper floors, answered questions asked by hotel guests and made themselves useful in many other ways. One of them, Joseph Milliken, a young man of twentytwo, but who seemed not more than sixteen or eighteen because of his small stature, was exceptionally courteous, and spoke English fluently, having lived in Key West all his life until he went into the employ of the hotel, a year and a half prior to our visit. He was a member of the Commercial or Volunteer branch of the fire department, and was very proud of the fact. We immediately became good friends. On the same floor, in front, and separated from each other by a broad hall, are two parlors, first and second, looking out upon rows of laurel trees lining the Prado. Great mirrors and pier glasses are placed short distances apart all round the rooms and beautiful curtains drape windows and doorways. Near the rear wall of the first parlor, at right angles to it, were placed two rows of rocking-chairs, four or five in each row, the two rows facing each other, with a stand in the center. This is an arrangement ~~~~ a~~~~ Typicegl BedilYObQn, bisaie flLIlftFl, HavB~f1na-I I OF HAVANA AND CUBA I65 seen in all Cuban homes. In the other parlor the arrangement was similar. On the first floor in front, is the large dining room, with its ceiling twenty-five feet above the marble pavement. The office is at one side, but not separated in any way from the dining room. The waiters were, I think, all or nearly all, Spaniards, some of whom spoke English well, some indifferently, and some, not at all. They were civil and obliging. The Cubans, except perhaps in some of the rural districts, eat three meals a day. The first is the light breakfast, the second or midday meal, is the heavy breakfast, and the third, corresponding to our dinner, is the supper. Coffee, rolls, bread and butter, and if desired, at the hotels, eggs, are served at the early breakfast. A great platter of oranges, invariably peeled, is always placed on the table at this meal. They are eaten from the fork. Cuban oranges are sweet and of good flavor, but full of seeds. At the other two meals several kinds of fish and of meats, together with vegetables, and a great variety of other articles, including many tropical fruits, are served at the hotels. No cake or pie ever appears on the hotel tables. At our first meal an "English ice cream" was served. It came in a glass and had, as I recollect, a greenish color. I thought it especially fine, and I66 NORTON S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK perhaps that is the reason why it never again made its appearance while we were at the Pasaje. One evening Mrs. Norton called my attention to something on another table, in a glass, having somewhat the appearance of ice cream, with two pointed objects, three or four inches long, points downward, projecting from it in opposite directions. I asked the waiter to bring us "some of that." "That" turned out to be Guanaba ice cream, and was more like one of our ices than like the ice creams to which we are accustomed. The projecting objects were wafers, rolled to a point, hollow, and of most delicate flavor. There was one article of food of which all were loud in its praise. That was the bread. In its appearance it was something like our Vienna bread. Its positive qualities of goodness, if they existed, could hardly be described, but it was, after all, the most insidious article of diet I ever tasted. One could munch that dry bread by the hour and then want more. Perhaps this was due to the fact of its having been baked on banana leaves. The butter was of a golden color, but slightly strong in taste. My interest, however, centered in the fruits. I tried every kind that came upon the table, and liked them all. Many of them are rather sweet, and are not at first relished. Most visitors have to acquire OF HAVANA AND CUBA a taste for those tropical fruits with which they are not familiar at the north. It was too early for pineapples. There were the zapote, small, russet-colored and very sweet; the caimito, large, dark-skinned with a white pulp and also very sweet; the mamey, resembling a cantaloupe somewhat in its appearance, with a taste that reminded me a little of that of the squash; the mango, not unlike a California pear in its shape, and something like the pineapple in its taste, and others. There were, as a matter of course, a number of grumblers at the hotel. "Garlic" was the burden of their song. This was the conventional complaint. They had come to Havana expecting to find fault with the food and cooking, and especially to declare that everything tasted of garlic. These people were in a perpetual state of starvation, were just on the eve of leaving the island and going back to the States where they could once more get decent food, but kept staying right along and eating three hearty meals every day. The food and the cooking were excellent. There was a great variety of wholesome dishes and a reasonable number of desserts and other delicacies. The Pasaje had one elevator, which ran from seven in the morning until one o'clock in the after I68 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK noon, then took a siesta until four, from which time it served guests until half past ten in the evening. There were a number of people from various countries staying at the Pasaje. It is the favorite hotel for Americans. A fourth story had been added to the hotel, but it was not completed. This has since been finished, and fitted up in elegant style. From the top of the Pasaje, is obtained a finer view of the city than can be had anywhere else within the thickly populated portion. VEHICLES. Little further need be said about the fine turnouts which may be seen in Havana. Prior to the last war, probably no other city could boast a greater number of elegant equipages. The street cars are drawn by mule teams, each with a leader. There are as yet no electric cars in Havana. It is probable, however, that they will be running in various parts of the city not later than January I, I9OI. Omnibuses run to the different parts of the city. The most usual way of getting about the city is in hacks of the Victoria style, drawn by a single pony. The drivers are Spaniards, Canary Islanders, Cubans, and negroes. There are about 5,200 of these cabs, and out of all the cabmen only one, I was OF HAVANA AND CUBA I69 told, speaks English. As a consequence his services are in great demand by tourists. The ponies are fed only in the morning, and at night after their day's work is done. They are hardy little animals and can get over the ground with surprising speed. One peculiarity about these little carriages is that the top extends forward so far as admirably to protect from the sun and the rain, and in case of the latter, an oil-cloth stretched from the top to the high seat of the driver completely shuts in the occupant. There should be windows in the sides of the top, so that the passenger can view the surroundings. Carts are used for heavy teaming. Their wheels are from five to seven feet in diameter. These carts are drawn by oxen and by mules. I saw an ox team standing in front of the governor's palace. Two, three, four, five, and even six mules, tandem, frequently draw a single cart through the narrow crowded streets of the city. Loads of lumber, hardware, green fodder, hay, wood, great timbers fifty feet in length, are at all times to be seen in the streets of Havana, drawn by oxen or by mules. There is a constant jingling of bells, fastened to the harness of the mule teams, as they move slowly along. I saw a few wagons on the streets. Some I70 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK times the carts are drawn by a mule team and a leader. Women often drive these teams. Much has been said and written about the cruelty of Cubans toward animals. No doubt there is far too much practiced, but it is no worse in that respect in Havana than in any of the larger cities of the States. The method of yoking the oxen by confining their heads in wooden frames allows less freedom of movement than the method employed in the United States, and is the way oxen are yoked in a number of European countries. The yokes seemed to me to be lighter than those generally used in the States. STREET SCENES. Loads of fodder and hay are sometimes carried on the backs of mules, often only the head and tail of the animal being visible. The mule, with a pannier on each side, filled with milk cans and bottles, in Havana, becomes an animated milk wagon. The milkman rides or leads the mule, as is most convenient in the delivery of the cans to his customers. Until about the first of January of the present year, it was a common thing to see cows driven through the streets, stopping before the customer's door where they were milked, then driven on, and the same operation repeated until all patrons had re OF HAVANA AND CUBA I7I ceived their day's supply, but the City Council passed an ordinance forbidding this practice. The poultry seller may be seen perched upon a great bag-like saddle thrown across his pony's back, from which hang clusters of chickens and turkeys fastened to the bag with stout cords. The water peddler goes about with a wooden framework suspended from his mule's back, the frame holding, on each side, from two to four kegs of water. There, too, is the notion vender leading his horse about on whose back is a pannier framework which holds his stock of small articles, laces, light fabrics, slippers, and the like. So, too, the charcoal vender should receive a passing notice. Charcoal is the fuel of the island. The mule, with the usual wooden framework loaded with bags of charcoal, is led, and sometimes ridden, about the streets, the charcoal being sold in small quantities to regular customers. Long lines of mule teams and many ox teams are to be seen coming in from the surrounding country bringing vegetables and other garden produce from the truck farms. The farmer still plows with a crooked stick. That curious and formerly stylish vehicle, the volante, a two-wheeled covered carriage with very long shafts, generally drawn by at least two horses, one of which is ridden by a postillion, is 172 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK now rarely seen in the streets of Havana, but is in common use in the country. Men and women go about the streets carrying great wicker baskets on their heads, the baskets resting on pads. These baskets are filled with loaves of bread, three or four feet long, or with fruits, vegetables, laundry articles and the like. Havana is a cosmopolitan city and types of almost every nationality are to be seen on the streets. SOME OTHER THINGS OBSERVED. I saw, at a store near Central Park, Panama hats marked from $3 to $Io6, and a tourist told me that she saw one marked $I75. The more costly hats are closely woven, with the straw under the water, I was told; they can be washed and folded up, and will last a lifetime. It is the ambition of the Cuban men to own a costly Panama. There is an astonishingly large number of drug stores in Havana. When one becomes aware of the defective drainage of the city and the unsanitary conditions generally prevailing, it can readily be understood why drug stores should flourish. It is said that the Cubans are "immune" to yellow fever. Its victims are the Spaniards and other foreigners. There are many fondas, that is, second or third class restaurants. There are numerous large if U U OF HAVANA AND CUBA I73 fashionable restaurants, ice cream parlors and confectionery stores. The only confectionery store in Havana kept by an American, when we were there, was owned by a lady. She told me that her business was excellent, and that Cubans, and in fact all other classes, patronized her place. The number of drinking places in Havana is legion. I saw no one drunk, but presume that there is some drunkenness. If so, it is hidden from ordinary observation. The Cubans drink light wines, coffee, chocolate made after the Mexican fashion, naranjada, or orangeade, of which they are very fond, limonada, or lemonade, and some other drinks of a non-intoxicating character. There are many book stores, especially of the second-hand variety, where rare and valuable books abound. They seem to be well patronized. Spanish books, naturally, are more numerous than those in other languages. Probably French works come next in the list. THE CUBAN PEOPLE. Cubans are, as a rule, of smaller stature than Americans. They dress much as Americans do, except as their dress is modified by the requirements of the climate. At the time the American occupation began, many persons could be seen on the streets of 12 174 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK Havana so lightly apparelled as to shock the sensibilities of Americans generally, and an order of the Military Governor was issued, or some other steps taken, which resulted in the clothing of the naked portion of the population in accordance with American ideas. The Cubans are fond of bright colors, of music, and of flowers. They love praise and are sensitive to criticism. They are naturally quick to learn and gentle, but, like people of warm climates generally, they are passionate and resentful. Some have as fair complexions as any that can be found in the States. Most of them are bronzed by the climate. In a general way the negroes of the island are called Cubans. In a more restricted sense they are not Cubans. It is sometimes asserted that there is perfect social equality between the whites and the negroes in Cuba. This is a mistake, although there is a considerably greater commingling between the two races there, socially and otherwise, than in any part of our country. FEELINGS OF CUBANS TOWARD AMERICANS AND SPANIARDS. So far as my experience and observation while I was in Havana are concerned, nothing occurred that OF HAVANA AND CUBA I75 led me to believe that Cubans, in general, entertain feelings of hostility against the people of the United States. I was told by some Americans, some temporarily in Cuba, and some permanently located there, that the Cuban people are lazy, treacherous, filled with ingratitude toward this country, and that they bitterly hate Americans and everything American. I set such opinions down as coming from the malicious, the misinformed, and the annexationists, who hope to create an irresistible sentiment among our people which will ultimately lead to the annexation of the island in any event, based on the theory that the Cubans are a semi-civilized community incapable of maintaining an independent government. Undoubtedly there are some just such Cubans as these persons describe, but they are neither many nor influential. This latter statement is based on my observation and more particularly on information furnished me by those whose opinions should carry great weight with them. Some things have occurred since we were in Cuba, that may have emphasized any ill-feeling which the Cubans had against Americans. Probably they are getting somewhat tired of us, and are irritated at what they regard as a long delay in delivering to them complete possession of their island. 176 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK The Spaniards seemed uniformly polite and friendly to Americans. I believe that there is considerably more social intercourse between the more educated class of Cubans and of Spaniards than is, in this country, generally supposed. OF HAVANA AND CUBA I77 ADIEU TO HAVANA. The hour of our departure had arrived. For the last time we rattled over the rough pavement, and found ourselves again on board the Tarpon, which was to take us to the Olivette, lying not far from the Regla side of the harbor. The interpreter of the Pasaje looked after the hand baggage which was delivered to us on board the Tarpon. Again we paid fifty cents apiece for passage to the Olivette. The captain of the Tarpon told me that in a short time this fare would be included in the price of the ticket at the time of purchase by the passenger. The Olivette lay about one hundred and fifty feet from the "restos," or wreck of the Maine. All that could be seen of the ill-fated vessel was the huge twisted mass of iron shown in all pictures of the wreck, a bare spar, two or three short pieces projecting slightly above the surface of the water and, at each end of the sunken vessel, a signal to show its location. As we approached old Morro's jutting rock, the resounding waves were dashing underneath and over it, and falling in cascades down the steep sides. When the Olivette reached the harbor entrance, 178 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK her prow shot high in the air, and then plunged forward to meet an advancing billow, for the sea still ran high as the result of the preceding Saturday night's storm. Soon the parti-colored buildings and the red-tiled roofs of the city and the high tower of the old San Francisco Convent faded from view, then majestic Morro, with its tall lighthouse, vanished out of sight, and wonderful, quaint and beautiful Havana became, to us, but a memory. Now and then a flying-fish leaped from wave to wave, or sailed through the air for a considerable distance, before it disappeared in the billows. The sun set in golden glory in those strange romantic waters. We reached Key West about seven o'clock in the evening, having left Havana at 2:30 o'clock that afternoon. A physician came on board. The passengers were ranged in line on the deck, their names were called, and as they passed, one by one, in review before the doctor, were greeted with "all right," and thus the health certificates had performed their office. We reached Port Tampa about ten o'clock the next morning. With valises a little open the passengers, in turn, placed them on a counter, where a custom-house officer glanced at the contents, or perhaps thrust a hand into the valise, fumbled OF HAVANA AND CUBA I79 about a moment, and then marked "0. K." on the bottom of the bag. This was the last gauntlet run. A short stay at that palace of luxury and art, the great Tampa Bay Hotel, and we hastened into the northern part of Florida for a considerable sojourn at beautiful Crescent City. I80 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK APPENDIX TO PART I. RAILROADS-FERROCARRILES. Ferrocarriles Unidos de la Habana, or The United Railways of Havana.-Their station is called Villanueva, and toward the south, faces Colon Park, while the Prado passes along the east side of their grounds. The lines of this company run from Havana to Guanajay; from Havana to Matanzas and Bemba; from Havana to La Union, and from Havana to Giiines. There is a station at Regla across the harbor and the trains on the Bemba or Jovellanos branch start from this point. Ferryboats ply across the harbor to Regla. The company ran its first train from Havana to Giiines, in 1838; from Jovellanos or Bemba, in 1845; from Palos, in I845; from Guanajay, in 1846; from La Union, in 1848. Habana Bay Railroad Company runs from Regla to Matanzas and other places. There is a connecting branch between Havana harbor and the Coliseo and Matanzas railroads, and also a connecting branch between Havana harbor and the Havana United Railways, between Regla and Cienaga. OF HAVANA AND CUBA i8I Ferrocarril de Marianao, or Marianao Railroad Company.-From Concha Station, Paseo de Carlos III to Marianao about six miles from Havana. There is a branch line running from Marianao to La Playa de Marianao, a seaside resort, two and a half miles north of Marianao. It ran its first train in 1863. Ferrocarril del Oeste, or Western Railway.-This road runs from Havana to Pinar del Rio. Its trains leave from the Cristina Station, Havana, at Calzada del Monte near Atares Castle. It began running in I859. STREET RAILWAYS. The corporation known as the Ferrocarril Urbano de la Habana controls all the street railways. All street cars start from Aguiar and Empedrado streets and run through the central part of the city. The street cars will soon be run wholly by electricity. I. The most important line runs from Aguiar street along Empedrado street to Monserrate street, thence to Bomba street, one block west to Zulueta street, thence south to Calzada del Principe Alfonso or del Monte, along Calzada de Cristina and Calzada de Jesuis del Monte to the suburb of that name. 2. A line runs over the same'route just described to Calzada de Belascoain and thence southwest along 182 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK Calzada del Monte and Calzada del Cerro to the suburb of that name. This is known as the Cerro branch. 3. This is the Principe branch and runs from the heart of the city to Principe Castle. A line connects these lines with the terminus of the dummy line at La Punta, to El Vedado and Chorrera. The company's gross receipts last year amounted to $6oo,ooo. Havana has about 27 miles of street railway. 4. The Havana Electric Railway Company is laying tracks to Jesuis del Monte, Cerro, Vedado and various other parts of the city and suburbs. 5. The Cuban Electric Railway Company has a line from Regla to Guanabacoa, and ferryboat connections between Havana and Regla. STEAMSHIP COMPANIES.1 Ward Steamship Company.-Steamers of this line arrive from New York at Havana on Mondays and Saturdays, and leave for Mexican ports on Tuesdays. They arrive at Havana from Mexican ports on Tuesdays, and leave for New York on Tuesdays and Saturdays. A fine steamer of the same line 1See Map of Havana, "Directory," for location of steamship companies' offices and wharves. OF HAVANA AND CUBA I83 arrives at Havana on Wednesdays and leaves on Saturdays. This company also runs steamers from New York to Havana and return by way of Nassau, Guantanamo, Santiago and Cienfuegos. Munson Line. - This is a new line and is a competitor of the Ward line. Its steamers leave New York on Saturdays for Nuevitas and Matanzas, but do not go to Havana. Passengers sail from Matanzas for New York on the 15th and 29th of each month, and from Nuevitas on the I2th and 26th of each month. These boats touch at various points along the north coast of Cuba. Peninsular and Occidental Steamship Company.This is the name of the newly consolidated Florida East Coast Steamship Company and the Plant System. Its steamers arrive at Havana from Tampa, Fla., on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays, and from Miami. The steamers touch at Key West. It is probable that during the winter season one steamer a day will arrive from and leave for these ports. Morgan Line.-Southern Pacific.-Steamers run between New Orleans and Havana. Will have line of first-class steamers running during winter months. South Coast Line.-Its steamers start from Bata 184 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK bano, which is reached from Havana by the Villanueva R. R. Trains connect with the boat on Sundays and Thursdays, which touches at Cienfuegos, Casilda, Tunas, Juicaro, Santa Cruz del Sur and Manzanillo, and returns to Batabano Sundays and Thursdays, from which place trains make close connections with Havana. Compafiia Transatlantic Espaniola.-This is a Spanish line. The steamers are all first-class. Their charges to New York are $Io less than those of the American lines, and the table is said to be more excellent. Their second-class accommodations are very good. They leave Havana for Cadiz, by way of New York, Barcelona and Genoa, on the 27th of each month. Steamers leave New York on the Ioth of each month and arrive at Havana on the I5th. They leave New York for Vera Cruz on the 6th and I6th of each month, for Colon, Puerto Caballo, La Guaira, and Porto Rico on the 4th of each month, and Coruna and Santander, Spain, on the 20th of each month. Compafiia Vapores, or the Herrera Line. - Its steamers go to all the northern ports of the island. This is one of the oldest lines. The steamers leave Havana on the 5th, I5th and 25th of each month for Nuevitas, Puerto Padre, Gibara, Sagua, Tanamo, Baracoa, Guantanamo and Santiago de Cuba. OF HAVANA AND CUBA I85 Steamers leave Havana for Porto Rico on the ioth and on the 2oth of each month. Two small steamers ply between Havana and Sagua and Caibarien and leave Havana Wednesdays at 2 p. m., returning on Sundays. The steamer Humberto Rodriguez leaves Havana for Nuevitas on Saturdays at 3 p. m., and leaves Nuevitas for Havana on Tuesdays at 3 p. m. The steamer Alava sails from Havana on Wednesdays for Sagua and Caibarien, and touches at Cardenas. The steamer Guaniguanico leaves Havana on the Ioth, 20th and 30th of every month for Arroyos La Fe y Gaudiana and returns on the I7th and 27th of each month. The steamer Guadiana sails from Havana on Saturdays for Rio del Medio, Dimas, Arroyos La Fe y Guadiana. These four steamers leave Havana from the Herrera Docks, at the foot of Luz street. TABLE OF DISTANCES FROM HAVANA.1 Miles. Miles. Key West.......... oo00 Quebec............ 2,421 New Orleans 69o Vera Cruz.......... 809 Mobile 640 Rio de Janeiro..... 3,536 Tampa......... 350 Buenos Ayres...... 4,653 Savannah.......... 613 Montevideo........ 4,553 Charleston........ 662 Port of Spain....... 1,521 Philadelphia........ 1,137 Bermuda........... I,150 New York......... 1,215 Gibraltar........ 4,030 Boston............. 1,348 Plymouth (Eng.).... 3,702 1 "Military Notes on Cuba," 5. i86 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK HAVANA AND THE CENSUS OF i899.1 TABLE II.-SEX, GENERAL NATIVITY, AND COLOR. HAVANA CITY. Total population.. 235,98i Negro. 28,750 Males......123,258 Males. 11,2I2 Females......II2,723 Females.....57,538 Native white.. 11.I5,532 Mixed.......36,004 Males......52,940 Males. 15,179 Females.....62,592 Femnales.....20,825 Foreign white.... 52,901 Chinese......2,794 Males. 41,190 Males. 2,737 Females.. 1...1,711 Females.5 TABLE III.-AGE AND SEX AND CONJUGAL CONDITION.2 HAVANA CITY. Under 5 years 17,791 21 to 44 years.I02,404 Males. 8,700 Males. 57,382 Females. 9,09i Females. 45,022 5 to 17 years....62,833 45 years and over. 36,263 Males. 30,615 Males..1... 7,923 Females. 32,218 Females. 18,340 18 to 20 years. 1i6,690 Single. 16o,780 Males......8,638 Married......42,071 Females. 8,052 Living together as husband and wife by mutual consent.......18,253 Widowed......14,799 Unknown 78 TABLE IV.-BIRTHPLACE AND CITIZENSHIP.3 HAVANA CITY. Born in Cuba....178,670 Citizens of Cuba... 151,553 Born in Spain....46,855 Citizens of Spain..- 7,7I3 Born in ot h er Citizenship in suscountries.. 10.,456 pense......64,1i26 Unknown......Other citizenship. 1 2,545 Unknown..... 44 1"Census of Cuba," Bulletin No. II, 13, Govt. Printing Office, igoo, Washington, D.- C. 2 "Census of Cuba," Bulletin No. II., 14. 3 Ibid., 14. O1V HAVANA AND CUJBA 7 i87 TABLE V.-SCHOOL ATTENDANCE, LITERARY AND SUPERIOR EDUCATION.' HAVANA CITY. Under i0 years of age...............42,11I1 Attended school...............9,881 Did not attend scol32,230 Ten years of age and ovr.93,70 Attended school................0,792 Can neither read nor write...........48,1I22 Can read, but cannot wie7,822 Can read and write..............127,039 Not stated.................. 95 Have superior education.............7,282 Have not superior education...........-228,699 HAVANA CITY. CITIZENSHIP,~ LITERACY, AND EDUCATION.2 0 0 0 0 0~~~r Total of vo ting age.. 75,305 23,790 32,779 2,787 I15,949 Cuban citizens.' ' 35,460 22 729 23 37 I2,671 Can neither read nor write........8,304 2,565 1 2 5,736 Can read but cannot write........975 345. — — 630 Can read and write. 22,790 i6,507 20 23 6,240 With superior education. 3,39I 3,312 2 12 65 Spanish citizens. 4,136 39 4,089 5 3 Can neither read nor write........327 I 324 1 I Can read but cannot write. 52... 52 Can read and write. 3,623 30 3,588 3 2 With superior education........ 134 8_ 125 I '"Census of Cuba," Bulletin No. II, i. 2 "Census of Cuba," Bulletin No. III, 8 I88 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK x' X n' O e O C cn a n a ~n. O 'O O *T. ~- s ~ 0~ r: 3 3:: Citizens in suspense.... 29,079 450 28,589 I5 25 Can neither read nor write............ 3,215 37 3,170 I 7 Can read but cannot write............. 389 5 381 I 2 Can read and write... 24,581 347 24,211 8 15 With superior education............. 894 6I 827 5 I Foreign and unknown citizens......... 6,630 572 78 2,730 3,250 Can neither read nor write............ 2,623 8 6 139 2,470 Can read but cannot write............ 48 I.... ii 36 Can read and write.. 3,253 386 64 2,067 736 With superior education.............. 706 77 8 5I3 8 In the city of Havana, the native whites amount to 49 per cent of the total population. The number of foreign born persons in the city of Havana amounts to 22.4 per cent of its total population. The colored element, including the negro and mixed races, is 27.3 per cent of the city's population.' The proportion of the total population of the city, born in Spain, is nearly 20 per cent; 64.2 per cent of the population are Cuban citizens; and only 5.3 per 1"Census of Cuba," Bulletin No. II, 6. ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... I OF HAVANA AND CUBA I89 cent claim citizenship other than Cuban or Spanish.1 The number of children from 5 to 17 years of age in the city is 62,833; the number who attend school is 20,673, and the per cent of school attendance is 33.2 The number of "potential" voters in the city of Havana is 32 per cent of its entire population; of this number, the whites born in Cuba amount to 32 per cent, and of this latter number 96 per cent are Cuban citizens. Only 39 native white Cubans are Spanish citizens.3 In Havana, 44 per cent of all the males of voting age are white persons born in Spain. Twenty-three persons born in Spain are Cuban citizens. Of the potential white voters of the city about 4 per cent are citizens of other countries than either Cuba or Spain.4 The colored potential voters of the city amount to 21 per cent of the total voting population and about four-fifths of this number are Cuban citizens, the remainder being chiefly Chinese.5 The literate Cuban citizens of voting age amount to 45 per cent of all literates of voting age.6 1 "Census of Cuba," Bulletin No. II, 9. 2 Ibid., II. 3 Ibid., Bulletin No. III, 9. 4 Ibid., 9. 6 Ibid., 9. 6 Ibid., 9. 13 I90 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OBSERVATIONS ON THE PRONUNCIATION OF SPANISH. The following rules for the pronunciation of Spanish words are inserted in the hope that they may be found useful to those of my readers who may have no, or only a very limited, acquaintance with the Spanish language. The large number of Spanish names and expressions occurring in this book would seem to justify the innovation here introduced. Accent.-When a word of two or more syllables ends in a vowel, or in one of the diphthongs ia, ie, io, ua and uo, the accent, as a rule, falls on the syllable before the last. Examples: Ca'-lle, street; Calza'-da, highway or turnpike, fa-mi'-lia, family. There are some exceptions to the rule. Examples: Pri'nci-pe, prince; na-vi'o, ship; ho-mi-li'a, homily. If the word has two or more syllables, and ends in a consonant, the accent falls, as a rule, on the last syllable. Examples: cor-de'l, cord; ca-fe-ta'l, coffeeplantation. There are exceptions. Examples: Ca'rcel, jail; ca'r-men, country-house and garden. Nearly all words ending in n, take the accent mark over the final syllable. Vi'r-gen and some other words are exceptions. Nouns in the singular number ending OF HAVANA AND CUBA I9I in s generally take the accent on the last syllable. There are a few exceptions to this rule. In Spanish, when the accent mark "'" is used, it appears just above the vowel in the accented syllable. Thus Ca'-lle, pri'n-ci-pe, cor-de'l, ca'r-cel, etc. Syllables.-A single consonant between two vowels begins the syllable to which the second vowel belongs. Example: Ca'-sa, house. Exceptions: nos-o'tros, we; vos-o'-tros, you. In the case of two consonants coming together between two vowels, the first consonant belongs to the preceding syllable, and the second consonant begins the following syllable. Examples: Ac-ce-si'-ble, accessible; tie'm-po, time. Exceptions: ch, II and rr cannot be separated and are to be regarded as simple consonants. Examples: ca'-lle, street; gue'-rra, war; chin-cho'-so, peevish. In the combinations bl, cl, ft, gl and pi, br, cr, dr, fr, gr, pr and tr, the consonant preceding the I or the r begins the syllable. Examples: Ha'-bla, idiom; cons-tru-i'r, to build. Vowels.-Every vowel is sounded: A has the sound of a in ah-Example: Ca'lle, street, pronounced Kah'-lay. E has the sound of a in may-Example: Me'ta, I92 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK limit, pronounced may'-tah; sometimes like e in met. I has the sound of ee in see-Example: Vi'no, wine, pronounced vee'-no. 0 has the sound of o in go-Example: Go'do, Gothic, pronounced go'-do. U has the sound of oo in choose-Example: Pu'nta. point, pronounced poon'-ta. Y has the sound of ee in flee-Example: Mu/'y, very greatly, pronounced moo'-ee.1 A and o written together are each sounded, but so rapidly as to have nearly the sound of ow. Example: Caca'o, cocoa-tree, or cocoa-bean, pronounced Kahkah'-ow. The same rule will apply to a and u written together. Ei, as in Rei'na, queen, should properly be pronounced ray-ee'-nah, but in Latin-American countries is generally pronounced ray'-nah. So, ley, law, lay'-ee, is pronounced lay. Consonants.-The letters, b, d, f, I, m, n, p, s, t, v and x are pronounced as in English. C before e and i has the sound of th in think. 1 This is the sound when y stands alone, follows a vowel, or stands at the end of a word. When it stands before a vowel in the same syllable, or between two vowels in the same word, it is a consonant and sounds like the English j, but somewhat softer. When it begins a word it has the sound of the English y. OF HAVANA AND CUBA I93 Examples: Pince'l, pencil, is pronounced peenthayl'; ci'ma, summit, is pronounced thee'-mah. In fact, however, the usual pronunciation of c in these and similar cases, except by those who affect extreme nicety in pronunciation, is simply s. C, in all other cases, has the sound of k. Examples: Cato'lico, Catholic, is pronounced Kah-to'lee-ko; Colla'r, collar, is pronounced koh-lahr'; decu'rso, course, is pronounced day-koor'-so. Ch has the sound of ch in cheer. Example: Chappara'l, an oak thicket, pronounced chap-ah-ral'; tro'cha, a military barrier, is pronounced, tro'-cha. G before e and i has the sound of h strongly aspirated. Examples: Genera'l, general, is pronounced hay-nay-rahl'; Gi'ga, jig, is pronounced hee'-gah. Before a, o, ui, all consonants, and after vowels, it sounds like g in go. If followed by u before e or i it sounds like g in go. Examples: Guerre'ro, warrior, is pronounced Gay-ray'-ro; Guio'n, a standard, is pronounced Gee-on', the u in all except a few cases being silent. The exceptions are marked with a diaeresis, thus: AgiLe'ro, augury, is pronounced ah-gway'-ro. Gua is pronounced gwah. Example:: Guari'smo, cipher, is pronounced gwah-rees'-mo. H is silent, except when followed by the diphthong ue, when it is slightly aspirated. Example: Hida'lgo, a nobleman, is pronounced ee-dahl'-go. 194 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK J has in all cases the sound of h strongly aspirated. Examples: Jose', Joseph, is pronounced Ho-say'; Junta, junta, is pronounced hoon'-tah; pasa'je, passageway, is pronounced pah-sah'-hay. L1 is very similar in sound to that of ly in English. Example: Bello, beautiful, is pronounced bayl'-yo. N (fi), n with the tilde', has the sound of ni in pinion. Examples: A'-no, year, is pronounced ahn'yo; se'iori'ta, miss or young lady, is pronounced sayn-yo-ree'-tah. Q is always followed by u and has the sound of k. The u is always silent. Examples: Que, that, which, what, is pronounced kay; qui'nta, country-seat, is pronounced keen'-ta. C is now generally used for q in words beginning with qua and quo. R has two sounds, a soft sound, when the letter is placed between two vowels or at the end of a syllable, like r in bar, and a hard sound when r begins a word, or occurs in the middle of a word, if it follows 1, n, or s. Rr has the hard sound of r. Example: Ferrocarri'l, railroad. Z has the sound of th. Examples: Felil', happy, is pronounced fay-leeth'; zarzamo'ra, blackberrybush, is pronounced thar-thah-mo'-rah. But in Latin-American countries, z is sounded like ss. OF HAVANA AND CUBA I95 PART II. CUBA. ITS RESOURCES, ETC. At the time that the military occupation of Cuba by the United States began, January I, I899, the condition of the people and of the island was deplorable. Many persons were starving, and over 6,ooo,ooo rations were distributed, through various agencies, among the famishing population. Society was disorganized in a great degree; agriculture, industry, trade and commerce prostrated; mail service, public instruction and local governments at a standstill; and the whole country in an almost bankrupt condition. The departments of state and government, finance, justice and public instruction, and agriculture, commerce, industries and public works, which took the place of the Spanish civil departments or secretaryships, went vigorously to work, under the supervision of the military authorities, to lay the foundations of the future prosperity of the country. The results already accomplished have been marvelous. The recuperative powers of the people and of the land have been demonstrated in a remarkable manner. 196 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK AREA AND POPULATION. The area of Cuba is 43,319 square miles, and from its eastern point to its western extremity, through the center on a curved line following the general shape of the island, the distance is about 730 miles, with an average breadth of 80 miles. Its coast line is about 2,200 miles in length, or with all its indentations, about 7,000 miles.1 It is about the size of the State of Pennsylvania, with a population considerably less than one-third of the population of that State, and is about four times larger than Belgium, with only about one-fourth the population of that kingdom. The following table presents at a glance a number of very interesting facts and figures regarding the population of Cuba.2 1 In the preparation of this account of the resources, etc., of Cuba, the "Civil Report" of Military Governor, Maj.-Gen. John R. Brooke, Government Printing Office, Washington, I9oo, has been freely consulted, as well as "Military Notes on Cuba," published by the government in I898. I take this occasion to acknowledge the courtesy of the War Department in fuinishing me with this report and especially to thank the Adjutant General's Office for the copy of "Military Notes on Cuba" sent me, as it has been of great service to me in the preparation of portions of this book. 2 "Census of Cuba," Bulletin No. II, 12, Table I. The facts and figures here given as to the population, etc., have been obtained through the courtesy of Gen. J. P. Sanger, Director of the Cuban Census, I899, Washington, D. C. .. i.i.............. OF HAVANA AND CUBA '9 197 TABLE I.-SUMMARY FOR THE ENTIRE ISLAND. RACE, NATIVITY AND SEX. Total population. I,572,797 Male... 815,205..Female.....757,592 Native white.. Male..... Female. Foreign white Male..... Female.... Under 5 years of age. Male..... Female. 5 to 17 years.... Male..... Female.... i8 to 20 years... 910,299 447,373 462,926 I42,I98 1 15,740.26,458 AGE AND 130,878 65,904 64,974 552,928 276,881 276,047 111,575 Colored..... 520,300 Negro......234,638 Male. 111 i,898 Female. 122,740 Mixed. 270,805 Male.......25,500 Female..1.. 45,305 Chinese. 14,857 Male..1....4,694 Female.1.... 63 SEX 21 to 44. Male...... Female. 45 years and over. Male...... Female. 553,922 297,765 256,157 223,494 120,228 I03,266 Male......54,427 Female.....57,148 Single. Married..... Cuba. Spain...... Cuban..... Spanish..... CONJUGAL CONDITION. 1,10 8,709 Living together... 13I,787 246,351 Widowed. 85,II2 BIRTHSPLACE. 1,400,262 Other countries... 43,207 129,240 CITIZENSHIP. 1,296,367 In suspense. 175,8I1 20,478 Other citizenship. 79,525 198 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK SCHOOL ATTENDANCE, ILLITERACY, AND SUPERIOR EDUCATION. Urnder Io years of age.......................... 356,87 Attended school....................... 40,658 Ten years of age and over..................... 1,215,8Io Attended school....................... 49,414 Can neither read nor write................. 688,555 Have superior education................... 19,158 Inferences Drawn From This Table by the Census Officials.-The native whites constitute 57.8 per cent of the total population of the island. The foreign whites constitute 9 per cent; the negro and mixed elements, 32 per cent; and the Chinese less than I per cent. Of the total population of the island, 89 per cent were born in Cuba, 8 per cent in Spain, and 3 per cent in other countries. Three-fourths of the foreign-born are Spanish. Eighty-three per cent of the population at the time of taking the census, October I6, I899, claimed Cuban citizenship, i per cent that of Spain and I per cent were in suspense, not having declared their intentions. Five per cent claimed citizenship other than Cuban or Spanish. In the province of Santiago 91.7 per cent of the inhabitants claimed Cuban citizenship, and in the city of Havana only 64.2 per cent were citizens of Cuba. About one-sixth of all the children in Cuba attended school during the year 1899. OF HAVANA AND CUBA I99 The average number of inhabitants of Cuba per square mile is 35.7 or about that of the State of Iowa. The urban population, including all cities down to,000o inhabitants, is 741,273, or 47.I per cent of the total population, or down to 8,000, as is the rule in the United States, there are only 499,682, or 32.3 per cent. The following table gives the male population of Cuba, variously classified, 21 years of age and over:1 TOTAL OF THE ISLAND. CITIZENSHIP, LITERACY, AND EDUCATION. n * o * *. O. ~... Total of voting age..417,993 187,813 96,088 6,794 I27,298 Cuban citizens......290,905 184,471 I42 78 I06,214 Can neither read nor write.......172,627 94,301 34 13 78,279 Can read but cannot write......... 4,132 2,089.... I 2,042 Can read and write. 10o5,285 79,452 99 39 25,695 With superior education......... 8,86I 8,629 9 25 198 Spanish citizens..... 9,500 144 9,341 6 9 Can neither read nor write...... 1,149 I8 I,I26 I 4 1"Census of Cuba," Bulletin No. III, 5-6. 200 NORTON'S COMPLETE HIAND-BOOK Can read but cannot write.... o.18 2 io6 Can read and write 7,929 105 7,8i6 3 5 With superior education...... 3I4 19 293 2 Citizens in suspense 76,669 I,296 75,249 37 87 Can neither read nor write.....6,9405 312 16,590 7 36 Can read but cannot write..... 858 I8 837 I 2 Can read and write. 56,704 86I 55,771 24 48 With superior education. 2,i62 105:2,051I 5 I Foreign and unkn'o w'n, citizens.......40,919 1,902 I11,356 6,673 20,98& Can neither read nor write.....26,641 I91 7,434 872 I8,144 Can read hut cannot write.... 293 8 I53 34 9& Can read and write. 11,914 I, 152 3,682 4,377 21,703 With superior education......2,071 551 87 1,390 43 The number of males of voting age in Cuba is 26 per cent of the total population, being but i per cent less than the proportion in the United States. according to the census of i890. Of the "potential" voters in Cuba, 70 per cent were Cuban citizens, 2 per cent were Spanish citizens, i8 per cent were holding their citizenship in OF HAVANA AND CUBA 20I suspense, and Io per cent were citizens of other countries, or their citizenship was unknown. The number of males of voting age who could read was 200,63I, or a little less than one-half the total number of males of voting age. Of those 22,629 were of Spanish or other foreign or unknown citizenship. The number whose citizenship was in suspense was 59,724 and the number of Cuban citizens able to read was II8,278, or 59 per cent of all Cuban citizens of voting age. The following table shows in what proportion the total population of Cuba on October i6, I899, was distributed among the six provinces:' Habana......... 424,804 Puerto Principe.. 88,234 Matanzas........202,444 Santa Clara...... 356,536 Pinar del Rio..... I73,064 Santiago......... 327,715 The direct and indirect losses in the population of Cuba by the late Cuban war for independence and by the reconcentration policy amounted approximately to 200oo,ooo. The people of Cuba may be divided into the following classes: I. Cubans proper,-descendants of Spaniards. 2. Persons with a tincture of negro blood from a slight trace down to and including quadroons. 3. Negroes and mulattoes. 4. Spaniards,-natives of Spain. 1 "Census of Cuba," Bulletin No. I., 10. 202 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK 5. Americans, English, French, Germans and other white persons. 6. Coolies, i. e., Asiatic laborers. It may be a question whether the mulattoes should not be placed in the second class rather than with the negroes as above. TOPOGRAPHY. It may be stated as a general proposition, that ranges of mountains extend throughout the length of the island from its eastern to its western extremity. The highest mountains are in the province of Santiago de Cuba, the Blue Peak, belonging to the Sierra Maestre range, attaining an elevation of nearly 9,ooo feet, the average elevation of the range being about 5,ooo feet. Detached groups of mountainous elevations characterize the province of Puerto Principe, and there are many hills. Cubitas is famous for two wonderful caves-Cubitas and Resolladero Guacanaya-and several others of note in the Cubitas range. Here, too, was the seat of the Cuban government during the last war for independence. El Pico del Potrillo is the highest point in the province of Santa Clara, with an elevation of about 3,000 feet, and belongs to the San Juan group, near the coast. This province has a very large number of lakes. OF HAVANA AND CUBA 203 Along Matanzas Bay, in the province of that name, there is a range of headlands whose highest point is 1,300 feet, and which is called Pan de Matanzas, from its real or fancied resemblance to a loaf of sugar. The famous caves of Bellamar are located three and a half miles from the city of Matanzas. There are some other portions of the province of a mountainous nature. In the central part of the province of Havana is the range of mountains known as the Sierra San Francisco de Janvier, and farther west, the Sierra de Bejucal. In the west and northwestern part are the Sierra de San Martin, Sierra Guanabacoa, and Sierra Sibarimar ranges. About the city of Havana there are many hills, some of which attain a considerable height. This province has a number of pretty lakes. There are many hills and rocky mountain ranges in the western and northwestern part of the province of Pinar del Rio. It also contains some remarkable caves. The southern coast of Cuba is mostly low and marshy and the same is true of considerable parts of the northern coast. There are some large swamps and vast savannahs in the interior. Four-fifths of the island is composed of low lands. The longest and largest river is the Cauto, in the 204 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK province of Santiago de Cuba. It is navigable for a distance of 60 miles. The island abounds in rivers, generally short, and, if navigable at all, only for a little distance. Still, these rivers form a means of communication between the interior and the coast, and explain, it is said, in some measure, the fact that Cuba is practically without roads in the greater part of the island. ANIMALS. There are a few deer, and many wild dogs, pigs and cats in the island. There is an animal, a foot or more in length and resembling the rat, called the jutia. The manati, or sea-cow, is found along the coasts. The horse, mule, ox, dog, sheep, goat and hog are the domestic animals found there. There are more than 200 species of birds, and turkeys, geese and pigeons are among the domestic fowls. More than 700 varieties of fish are found in the waters of Cuba and those surrounding the island. There are not many snakes, and none are poisonous. The maja is a large snake, IO to 15 feet in length. The crocodile, or cayman, abounds. CLIMATE, ETC. Cuba lies wholly within the tropics. There are but two seasons, a wet season, or summer, and the dry season, or winter. The rainy season begins OF HAVANA AND CUBA 205 early in June and continues until about October. The dry season lasts from October until about June. One-third of the rainfall of the year occurs, however, during the dry season. The rains generally occur in the afternoon, and there may be several showers in a single afternoon. The showers are usually very heavy and almost always accompanied by thunder and lightning. The average annual rainfall is from 50 to 52 inches. The average number of rainy days in a month is Io. The atmospheric humidity averages for the year 8o per cent. The mean annual temperature at Havana is 75~ for the hottest month and 70~ for the coldest. The thermometer sometimes reaches 9go in the shade, but rarely goes above 86~, in the summer. The mean temperature during the day in the winter is 80~. The thermometer once in a great while goes as low as 50~. The heat is oppressive because of the great amount of moisture in the atmosphere. Frost occurs in the interior at considerable elevations. The trade wind from the east is the prevailing breeze. From io o'clock a. m. to 2 o'clock p. m. is the hottest part of the day. DISEASES. Yellow fever, malarial fever, intermittent fever, 14 206 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK diarrhoea, dysentery, lock-jaw, consumption, resulting in a larger percentage of deaths than that from any other disease, and leprosy are the principal diseases. The disease most to be dreaded is the vomito, or yellow fever. Care by the unacclimatized should be exercised in the matters of diet, clothing, and exposure to the sun's rays and to cold and wet. No work should be performed, in the sun at least, between I a. m. and 3 p. m. EARTHQUAKES AND HURRICANES. Earthquakes are mostly confined to the eastern part of the island, but occasionally shocks somewhat severe are felt in its western portion. Cuba is less liable to hurricanes than are the other West Indian islands. Severe hurricanes are infrequent visitors on this favored isle. MINERALS. Copper.-This is found in nearly all parts of the island. In Pinar del Rio are the mines of Buenas, Aguas, Recompensa, Union and Caridad. In the province of Havana are the mines of Bacuranao and Guanabacoa, Jaruco and others. Many mines exist in the province of Matanzas. Copper is found in Santa Clara and also in Puerto Principe. The pro OF HAVANA AND CUBA 207 vince of Santiago de Cuba has the largest and bestpaying copper mines in the island. Iron.-Iron ore is found in the provinces of Santiago de Cuba, Santa Clara and Puerto Principe. It probably exists in all the other provinces. The province of Santiago is very rich in deposits of this ore, and three companies, the Juragua Iron Company, Limited, the Spanish-American Iron Company and the Sigua Iron Company do all the business.1 Lead.-Several lead mines have been opened in the province of Santa Clara. Very little has been done in the way of developing this business. Coal.-Some coal is said to exist in Cuba, especially in the province of Santiago de Cuba. B Gold.-Deposits of gold have been found in Santa Clara province. The most important mine is that of the Meloneras, near Guaracabuya. There are gold mines in the Holguin district. Gold deposits have been found in the Isle of Pines. It is probable that Cuba is richer in this metal than is generally supposed. Silver.-Silver deposits have been found in the provinces of Santiago, Puertol Principe, and Santa Clara, and in some other places in Cuba. Silver has also been found in the Isle of Pines. 1 Robert P. Porter, "Industrial Cuba," I899, page 319. 208 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK Manganese.-This is found in large quantities in the province of Santiago. Asphaltum.-There are important mines of this mineral in the provinces of Pinar del Rio and Havana. The mines of Jesuis del Potosi and Santa Rosa are those best known in the province of Havana, and those of Rodas, Concepcion and Madgdalena, in that of Pinar del Rio. It is found in various other places. Bituminous Oils.-Petroleum is found in many places. Oil oozes from the rocks and underlies asphaltum beds in different parts of the island. Sulphur.-There are mineral springs near the city of Havana and in many other places in Cuba. These all show the presence of sulphur. Salt.-Salt deposits are found all over the island. Nickel.-"Nickel is also said to exist."1 Quicksilver.-This has been found in small quantities.2 Marble.-There are very fine qualities of marble and granite, for monumental purposes, in various localities in Cuba and especially in the Isle of Pines. Building stone is also abundant. Much of it is a "soft carbonate of calcium." There are various kinds of clays both in Cuba and 1 Porter, "Industrial Cuba," 328.? Ibid. OF HAVANA AND CUBA 209 in the Isle of Pines; lime is manufactured from different sorts of limestones. There are numerous limestone quarries in the vicinity of Havana; ochre is found in Santiago province and in Santa Maria del Rosario and Guanabacoa, suburbs of Havana; there are deposits of chrome in the island; talc is also found; lodestone, or magnetite abounds, and moulding sand of very fine quality exists near Nueva Filipina. Rock-crystal is found in the Isle of Pines and in other localities. Slate exists in Santiago province. It is probable that the mineral wealth of the island is much greater than is generally believed. Under the Spanish law all mines belong to the state in its right of sovereignty. For the purposes of the law, all minerals in Cuba are classified under three heads: I. Mineral products of a terreous nature, silicious rock, slate sandstone, granites, basalt, limestone, chalk sands, marls, and generally, all others used in building materials taken from quarries. 2. The metalliferous sands and alluviums, iron minerals, emery, ochre, and almagra, the metalliferous soils derived from former concessions, pyritic, alumish, and magnesium soils, saltpetre, lime phosphates, sulphate of baryte, fluor spar, steatite, kaolin. and all kinds of clay. 210 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK 3. Seams of metalliferous substances, anthracite, pit coal, lignite, asphalt, mineral tars, petroleum and mineral oils, graphite, saline substances, including the alkaline and terreous alkaline salts, found either in solid form or dissolved in water, sulphates of iron, sulphur and precious stones. Subterranean waters belong to this group. When the minerals of the first group are found in the public lands, they are of common use. When found in private lands, the title to the minerals is granted by the state to the owner of the surface, and he may work them or not. The minerals of the second group are on the same footing, but, if the owner does not operate the mine, the state may condemn the surface, indemnifying the owner therefor, and grant the possession and enjoyment of the mineral to other persons. The third class can be worked after a grant for that purpose is made by the state. "In this case the property of the surface and that of the subsoil become different properties, and when one of them must subserve the ends of the other condemnation and indemnity therefor ensues."' Concessions of mines are made by the government in perpetuity. In public lands belonging to the state, any one can make excavations, but not to 1 General Brooke's "Report," 246. OF HAVANA AND CUBA 211 exceed io meters in length and in depth. Notice must be given to proper local authority. In private lands, consent of owners to make such excavations must be obtained. In case of the second and third classes of mines, the unit of measure is called a pertenencia, and is o00 meters square, but unlimited as to depth. Four or more of these pertenencias may be obtained in a single concession. Four pertenencias are the least number that can be included in one concession. Application in writing must be made to the civil governor of the province. Priority in filing application for that concession determines the right of preference. In the second class, the owner of the surface has the preference, if he agrees to commence operating the mine within a period fixed by the government, which must not be more than 30 days. There is an annual surface impost ranging from $20 to $30. The slags and terriers pay $I for each I,ooo square meters of surface extension. Permits for investigation must pay $20 a year. The state receives 2 per cent of the gross proceeds of the mines. Mining legislation in Cuba is not in a satisfactory condition, and, owing to the disorganization resulting from the war of independence and the SpanishAmerican war, it is, in many cases, difficult to know 212 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK to whom mining concessions have been made. The Foraker amendment at present stands in the way of any new concessions from the state, though provisional "permits" continue to be granted by the Civil Governors of the several provinces. TIMBER. Cuba, together with its islands, contains more than 28,000,000 acres, of which about 20,000,000 acres are uncultivated, and about 13,00o,000 acres are covered with forests. About 1,226,920 acres of these timber lands belong to the state. The provinces of Santiago de Cuba and Santa Clara and the Isle of Pines possess the largest areas of timber lands. The best building material is found in the interior of the provinces. Many parts of the island are, however, not well wooded, and some persons advise the planting of forests in scantily timbered districts. Cedar.-Cuba has furnished the United States with more cedar than any other kind of wood; it is found in many parts of the island. Mahogany.-The finest mahogany in the world is found in Cuba. Ordinary varieties are worth from $Ioo to $I50 per I,ooo feet, and the finest varieties range in price from $400 to $1,200 and $I,500. The trees stand far apart, often in the midst of the jungle. OF HAVANA AND CUBA 213 Some of these trees are Io feet in diameter, and are usually cut from IO to 15 feet from the ground. The province of Santiago de Cuba has the finest mahogany. It is found in many other parts of the island.1 Palms.-There are about 30 varieties of palms, among them the sago palm, cabbage palm, the guano, the yarey, the guano de Cana, which produces the vanilla bean, the cocoanut palm, and, most important of all, the royal palm. Nearly all the different varieties of palm can be put to at least several uses, and the royal palm probably serves twenty-five or thirty different purposes. It is used in the manufacture of baskets, certain kinds of cooking utensils and canes. It is an excellent building material, retaining the warmth in winter and excluding the heat in summer. Its leaves make good roofing and thatching; its tuft may be eaten like cauliflower; its seeds will fatten hogs; its fibers may be wet and then folded and worked into cordage. Ebony.-Grows in many places in Cuba. All are familiar with its uses. Lignum Vitxe.-This hard wood is found in many parts of the island. Acana.-This is a very hard, reddish wood; when 1 Porter, "Industrial Cuba," 340. 214 NORTON S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK polished it looks somewhat like cherry. There are at least two varieties. They are very beautiful and valuable woods. Guyacan.-A very hard wood and polishes finely. It has somewhat reddish streaks with intervening lighter ones when polished. Ginebrahacha.-This is a species of fir-tree. Majagua.-There are at least three varieties, one of a light color, with dark streaks, and quite hard; another darker, of more even color, whose wood is moderately hard, and a third, still darker and very hard. All three varieties polish nicely. From the bark of this tree cordage is made. The tree grows to a height of forty feet. Jigui.-A very hard wood and lasts well. Cayguaran.-Also a hard and desirable wood. Marai6nn.-A gum like gum arabic is obtained from this tree. Oak.-There are several kinds of oak. An evergreen variety flourishes in some parts of the island, but the supply of oak timber is, on the whole, small. Pino de Tea.-This is a pitch or Lorch pine. Cuia.-Very durable in water. Caimitillo.-Useful for building and furniture purposes. Nogal or Walnut.-There is the nogal or common OF HAVANA AND CUBA 215 black-walnut, and several other varieties not differing greatly from it. Sabicu.-There are several varieties of this very hard and beautiful wood, of yellowish and reddish color. It takes on a splendid polish. Yaya.-A useful wood in the construction of houses and for various other purposes. Ocuje.-Several varieties. A very hard wood. Polishes finely. A yellowish red. Wide dark red streaks alternating with narrower light ones. Held in certain positions in the light, it has the peculiar property, when polished, of presenting an appearance almost wholly different from its ordinary character, much like the shimmering of silks. It is used for furniture and interior finishing purposes. Baria.-A small hard-wood tree. Canes are made from this wood. Sabina.-A valuable hard-wood tree. Cuen.-From this tree are made barrel hoops, and other similar articles. Aceitillo.-An exceedingly hard wood. At least two varieties, somewhat resembling the common beech. Very fine grain. Polishes handsomely, and can be used for making furniture and for other purposes. Granadillo.-This tree grows to a height of 12 feet. Canes and other small articles are made from it. 216 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK Macurije.-A moderately hard wood which polishes well, and has a sort of grayish-green color, with a narrow dark stripe and a wider light-colored stripe. Can be used for a variety of purposes. Maboa.-A wood useful for many ordinary purposes. Ayti.-Several varieties. Very hard and takes a beautiful polish. Straw-colored or a little darker, with a heart somewhat resembling walnut but harder and finer, its grain alternating light and dark, while the "sap" resembles maple, and is as hard as the center. This wood probably far surpasses any timber in the United States for the purpose of interior finish. Jagiiey.-This is a parasite tree. Various small articles are made from it. Chicharron.-A hard wood of several varieties, the darker variety being extremely ha.rd. In color it considerably resembles the black walnut. Ceiba.-The silk cottonwood, so called from the fact that it bears a pod containing silk, but the fiber cannot be used for spinning. It grows to a great height, and is a splendid shade tree. Vera.-Very hard, almost like petrified wood, with a sound, when struck, similar to that of stone, susceptible of a high polish, and of a light yellow with flecks and streaks running lengthwise. OF HAVANA AND CUBA 217 Banyan.-A tree whose branches droop and take root in the ground and often cover several acres. Rosewood.-This beautiful wood is found in the island. Agracejo.-A beautiful, almost straw-colored, hard wood. Juicaro.-A very hard wood, not unlike the walnut, and serves a variety of purposes. The mango, and Spanish laurel, are fine shade trees. The narango, or wild orange, and agraceje are hard woods of a light yellow color and polish nicely. The sand-box tree explodes its fruit, producing a sharp report. After the explosion, the monkeys gather about to eat the seeds, and hence the natives have given this tree the name of the "monkey's dinner bell." The trumpet tree makes a hollow sound, when struck. Other woods such as fustic, capeche wood and Brazilian wood are found in the island. AGRICULTURE. Cuba is one of the richest agricultural countries in the world. Its fertility has become proverbial. Its leading product is sugar, and tobacco comes next on the list. The first sugar plantation on the island was established in I535. Sugar.-Cuba is the greatest cane-sugar pro 218 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK ducing country in the world. The black soil is the best for sugar-cane growing. The cane should be renewed about every seven years. Some sugar plantations cover vast areas. The Constancia plantation, the second in rank in the island, about a dozen miles from Cienfuegos, contains 66,ooo acres. Cane is sometimes brought 50 miles to be worked up.' A plantation where both the cane is raised and the juice manufactured into sugar, is called an ingenio; one which merely grows the cane, to be worked up elsewhere, is called a colonia. In case of a large plantation, there is a plant consisting of buildings for many different purposes, such as machine shops, electric light plants, repair shops, etc. This is known as the Central. Railroad tracks run to different parts of the plantation. A large number of men, horses, mules and oxen are needed in the business. There are many plantations of only Ioo to 500 acres.2 About 2,000,000 acres were employed before the late war in sugar-cane growing. Beet sugar has become a formidable competitor of that made from sugar-cane. With improved machinery and careful attention to details of the busi1 Franklin Mathews, "The New-Born Cuba," Chap. I5. 2 The term Caballeria is often used in connection with land measures. It is a quantity of land equal to 331/ acres. OF HAVANA AND CUBA 219 ness, capitalists may, nevertheless, expect good profits on their investments in the sugar business in Cuba. The United States imports about 80 per cent of all the sugar produced in Cuba. The yield in I894 was I,040,000 tons of sugar, and about 400,ooo tons of molasses, but the war nearly destroyed this industry. Santa Clara and Matanzas are the two great sugar producing provinces; they, together, furnished for many years 80 per cent of the entire amount exported by the island. For the year I898-I899, their exports were 1,444,000 sacks, worth $11,828,000. At present the outlook in this industry, all over the island, is very encouraging. Tobacco.-No other product of Cuban soil brings so large a profit in return for so small an outlay. One person can attend to three or four acres. The plants are set out in October, November and December. The crop is ready to harvest in three or four months after the plants are placed in the ground. The tobacco produced in the Vuelta Abajo (Lower Valley), a tract about go miles long by io to 15 wide, at the foot and south of a range of mountains in the northwestern part of the province of Pinar del Rio, is without a rival in its flavor. The province of Havana has much excellent soil for 220 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK tobacco growing, and many plantations. The red soil is best for raising tobacco. Tobacco farms contain from 3 to 30 acres. A tobacco plantation is called, in Cuba, a vega. The province of Santa Clara, also, produces large quantifies of fine tobacco. About 80,000 persons are engaged in tobacco raising in Cuba. The Germans take the lead in the manufacture of cigars. Coffee.-This industry ranks third in magnitude and value of product. The coffee plant is said to have been introduced into the island from Haiti about the middle of the eighteenth century. A coffee plantation is called a cafetal. The trees are planted wide apart, in rows, with shade or fruit trees between as a protection against the injurious effects of a tropical sun. Coffee plantations range in extent from I50 acres to 1,ooo acres or more. From 40 to 60 negroes are employed on a plantation of I,ooo acres. More coffee is grown in the eastern part of the island, especially in the province of Santiago de Cuba, the most important coffee-raising district in Cuba, than in the western, although considerable is grown in the province of Pinar del Rio, and coffee of very fine quality is raised in the province of Havana. In its wild state the coffee tree reaches a height of 20 feet, ................................iii i................................ iiii................................ iiii................................i i i i................................iiii................................s s s s OF HAVANA AND CUBA 221 but for convenience in gathering the crop, it is kept down by the coffee-grower to a height of about I2 feet. A coffee plantation is a beautiful sight, with its pretty trees, whose leaves are smooth and of a darkgreen color. The harvest begins in July and ends in December. Cattle Raising.-As this is the next most important industry of the island, a brief account respecting it is here inserted, it being thought sufficiently germane to the general subject to warrant its introduction at this point. So acute and accurate an observer as Gen. James H. Wilson, former Military Governor of the provinces of Matanzas and Santa Clara, expressed his belief that a "more prompt return and larger profits can be realized in the next five years in that [the cattle] business in Cuba than in any other possible industry, unless Cuban sugar should be permitted to enter the United States free of duty."t There were considerably more than I,ooo,ooo head of cattle in the island in I894, before the Cuban war for independence, while at the close of the Spanish-American war in the middle of I898, there were only about 75,000 head. Nearly the whole island is covered with grass and is well adapted to 1 General Brooke's "Report," 337. 15 222 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK cattle raising. Matanzas and Santa Clara provinces are, perhaps, better adapted to this business than any of the other provinces. The tables below show the importations of cattle into Cuba, at Havana, for the month of July, Igoo:1 Excellent returns could probably be had from the raising of horses, mules and hogs. Corn.-Two or three crops of corn a year can, be raised; and in the form of fodder, four or five crops a year can easily be obtained. Rice.-Rice is grown in the provinces of Havana and Matanzas, and along the lowlands of the coast. Potatoes.-Two or three crops of Irish potatoes can be raised each year in Cuba. The yield is very large. I was told at Marianao, a town about seven miles southwest of Havana, that a crop of sweet potatoes could be raised every forty days, or about nine crops a year. This may be an exaggeration, but it is undoubtedly true that in some parts 1 The figures here given are taken from a statement in "The Havana Post," of Friday, Aug. Io, I900. From Florida................................ 5,156 Vera Cruz................................ i,916 " Puerto Cabello............................ 756 Mobile.................................... 33I " Tampico..........................~....... 304 Honduras....................... 6 New Orleans............................. 42 Total................... 8,666 OF HAVANA AND CUBA 223 of the island three immense crops can be obtained yearly. Cotton.-Cotton is grown but little, but there is every probability that it will be raised much more extensively in the future than it has been in the past. Beans, radishes, cabbage, cucumbers, lettuce, yuca, from which tapioca is made, celery, beets, onions, peanuts, mustard, pepper, ginger, licorice, sarsaparilla, vanilla, copal, china root, and other plants and vegetables grow in Cuba. Honey of the finest quality is one of the articles of export. The following table will give a good idea of the state of agriculture in the island, shortly before the breaking out of the Cuban war for independence. There were in 1894:1 Breeding farms......................... 3,300 Sugar-cane plantations.......................... 1,500 Coffee plantations............................... I,ooo Herds of horses................................ 6,ooo Cocoa-bean plantations.......................... I3 Tobacco fields................................ 9,500 Bee farmers.............................. 2,300 In all, 100,000 city and 20,000 country estates corresponding to 70,000 proprietors. The imports are mainly jerked beef from South 1 The figures here given are taken from "Military Notes on Cuba," 28. 2 "Military Notes on Cuba," 28. 224 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK America, codfish from British NorthAmerican provinces, flour from Spain, rice from Carolina, Spain and the East Indies, wine and olive oil from Spain, boards for boxes, etc., from North America, coal from Europe and North America (charcoal is mainly used as fuel in Cuba), petroleum from the United States, and many other articles from England, Germany and Belgium, especially hardware, and cattle from Florida and the coasts of the Gulf of Mexico.1 The exports are mainly sugar, tobacco, coffee, brandy, copper, wax, honey, leather, horn, cocoanut oil, timber and fruit.2 There is little manufacturing business in the island outside of that of making cigars in Havana. As to the population which Cuba is capable of supporting, the estimates differ greatly. No one places the number at less than 5,000,000 people, while some put the number at 15,ooo,ooo and even as high as I8,000,000. FRUITS. While people living in the temperate zones are familiar with many kinds of tropical fruits, there is a large number whose names are not even known 1 "Military Notes on Cuba," 28. 2 Ibid., 28. OF HAVANA AND CUBA 225 to most persons residing outside of tropical and subtropical countries. Banana.-There are a number of varieties of this most valuable of tropical fruits. It grows wild along the coast and, in fact, throughout the island. Cocoanut.-Cocoanuts can be raised in all parts of the island, but they are mostly grown in the province of Santiago de Cuba, in which a large business in cocoanut oil is done. Cocoanuts grow in bunches on the cocoanut palm. Some of these cocoanuts attain a very large size. The natives are very fond of the milk (almost colorless) of the green cocoanut. Pineapple.-There are several varieties in the island. The province of Havana contains many large pineapple plantations. It grows wild in various places in Cuba. One crop a year, after the first crop, which requires about I6 to 18 months to mature, can be secured. Each plant bears one apple a year. Grapes.-Grapes can be raised in Cuba, but little has been done in that direction as yet. Strawberry.-Two or three crops of strawberries a year can be grown in Cuba. Melons.-Watermelons, muskmelons and cantaloupes grow well in the soil of Cuba. Zapote.-The zapote chico is a small fruit about the size of an apricot. Its skin is rough and of a brown color. The fruit is sweet and very agreeable 226 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK to the taste of most persons, although some people find it rather mawkish. The melon zapote is also grown in Cuba. Roseapple.-This fruit is about the size of an apricot or a little larger. It has an odor of the attar of roses. Custard Apple.-A green-colored fruit with a very white pulp. Star Apple.-Has the appearance of a star when cut open.- Its flavor is rich, and the pulp is of a greenish color. An6n.-A fine, richly-flavored fruit, also called sugar apple. Mamey.-Spelled also mammee. It grows on a tree of considerable height, and is about the size of a cantaloupe. It has a peculiar flavor, and is greatly relished by the natives. Aguacate, or Alligator Pear. - It is generally eaten with salt and pepper, and is also used as a salad and in soups. It is from 2 to 31 inches in length, and has a somewhat oily flavor. It grows upon the taste. It is very nutritious and is an aid to digestion. It also has a number of other names, as ahuacate, chico, avocado and vegetable butter. Zapotilla.-The fruit is the size of a small apple, and is very pleasant to the taste. Mango.-A fine fruit not unlike, in color and OF HAVANA AND CUBA 227 shape, the California pear. It grows on a tree resembling very much the common apple tree. It is very juicy and has a pleasant acid taste. Guava or Guayaba.-This grows on a good-sized tree. It is always on the table in the form of a brownish-colored jelly and paste. The natives are extravagantly fond of this jelly. The citron, tamarind, guanabana, bread fruit anl other varieties of fruit not grown in temperate climes are common to the island. Oranges.-Comparatively little has as yet been done in the way of orange growing, except by a few fruit-growers from Florida. The Cuban orange is very sweet, of a good flavor, and full of seeds. It has been doubted whether Cuban oranges can ever be made to attain the excellence in flavor of the Florida orange. That remains to be seen. Thousands of orange trees from Florida have within the last year been planted in Cuba, and are giving fine results. Groves of several hundreds of acres in extent will be very common there within a few years. It is the opinion of some growers of experience that fertilizers should be used in Cuba in this business. A grove, if carefully attended to, should be in full bearing in from five to seven years. Many advise setting pineapple plants between the rows, until the grove is in bearing. 228 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK Lemons and limes, as well as oranges, grow wild in Cuba. There are some lemon groves, and the annual sales of lemons now amount to $I5,000,000, but this industry is only in its infancy. Peaches, pears and plums, of the varieties raised in the Southern States and in California, can also be grown in Cuba, and experienced fruit-growers have already set out orchards of these fruits. In a comparatively short time, it will undoubtedly be demonstrated that the soil and climate of Cuba will produce them in great abundance. With cheap ocean freights, there is no reason, it would seem, why Cuba should not successfully compete in respect to these fruits with the Southern States and with California, in the markets of the North. RAILROADS. The following table gives the names of the railroads of Cuba together with other important information:1 Table of the extension of the operating railroads of this island divided according to the law on the matter. General Brooke's "Report," 319-320. ffi OF HAVANA AND CUBA29 229 Operating ExNames of the tension. Companies. Lines Included. Partial. Total. General Service. Kilo- KiloUnited Railway of Habana R. R. Co.: meters.' meters. Habana. Habana to Giiines....- 7:2.087 Giiines to Palos....30.899 Palos to Union.....2 I.323 Rincon to San Antonio I2.874 San Antonio to Guanajay......... 21.246 San Felipe to Bataban6 15.550 Gilines to Matanzas.. 57.950 Sabana de Robles to Madruga. 6.440 Habana Bay R. R. Co.: Regla to Matanzas.... 87.000 Matanzas to Coliseo..- 37.515 Coliseo to Bemba.1.. 7.735 Regla to Guanabacoa..- 4.800 Connecting branch between Habana Harbor, Coliseo and Matanzas Railroads....8oo Connecting branch between Habana Harbor and the Habana United between Regla and Cienaga... 8.ooo 394.219 Nuevitas to Pto. Principe R. R. Co.......Nuevitas to Pto,. Principe. 7I.3,56 Extension to the Guincho inlet.......2.334 Branch between the station and the NueC~rena an J' vitas warehouses... 313 caro R. R. Co.- C~trdenas to Bemba.... 27.935 Bemba to Navajas (Montalvo). 1 — -. 5.883 Ja'caro to Pijuan....34.039 Recreo to Sabanilla... 6.900 74.003 1 A kilometer is 3,280.8 feet. 230 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK Names of the Companies. Operating Extension. Lines Included. Partial. Total. General Service. Kilo- KiloHabana R. R. Co.: meters. meters. Connection with the, line of Ji~icaro to Palmilla. 27.708 Bemba to Agtiica....42.309 Agilica to Macagua... I0.943 Connecting branch between the lines of C~irdenas and J~caro 6.366 Sabanilla to Itabo.. 1. 6. i09 Macagua to Esperanza 73.579 Pijuan to Calimete.... 27.360 Connecting curve between the lines of Pinillos and Ceruti streets..250 Ca'rdenas to Pizarro-. 6,330 295,7I1 Matanzas R. R. Co. Matanzas to Navajas.. Navajas to Isabel... Isabel to Mulato (Bar6)...... Navajas to Tramojos (Pedroso). Tramojos to Claudio (Torriente)..... Mulato to Guareiras.. 57.129 I4.483 24.145 8.5oo I11.317 10.360 I925.934 La Prueba R. R.;ICo. Regla to Guanabacoa (tramway). 4.000 Extension by Guanabacoa streets......oI8 A.0,18 Cuban Central Rwy. Cienfuegos to Santa Clara. 68.528 Caibarien to Remedios. 9.1 I30 Remedios to San Andr6s.........36.850 San Andre's to Placetas 8.073 Connecting branch between the line of Caibarien R. R. and that on the Marina street, Caibarien. 2.400 OF HAVANA AND CUBA 231 Operating ExNames of the tension. Companies. Lines Included. Partial. Total. General Service. Kilo- KiloHabana R. R. Co.: meters. meters. From Sagua port or Concha to Cifuentes. 36.I47 Cifuentes to Encrucijada................ 20.165 Encrucijada to Camajuani............... 24.629 Sitiecito to Cruces.... 55.927 261.849 Guantanamo R. R. Co......... Santa Catalina to Cerro Guayabo............ II,500 From half a mile before Cerro Guayabo to the Caimanera....... 8.925 Santa Catalina to Jamaica............... 5,400 Cuatro Caminos to Soledad............ 723 26.548 Santiago de Cuba R. R. Co...... From Santiago de Cuba to Cristo and branches to Sabanilla and Maroto.............. 33.507 Marianao R. R. Co.......... Habana to Marianao.. 9.650 Connecting br'nch with the Habana R. R. in Cienaga.............298 Branch from Marianao to the Playa......... 3.349 13.297 Urbana de la Habana..........From San Francisco to Carmelo, San Juan de Dios to Cerro, and from Cristina bridge to Jesus del Monte (street cars).............. 19.882 Tunas a Sancti Spiritus R. R. Co...........Tunas to Sancti Spiritus...................... 38.623 Gibara to H. R. R. Co..........Gibara to Holguin........... 36425 232 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK Names of the Companies. Lines Included. General Service. Habana R. R. Co.: Operating Extension. Partial. Total. Kilo- Kilometers. meters. Western Rwy. of Habana.....Habana to Pinar del Rio.721 Connecting br',nch with the Habana United R. R. in Rincon.... 41I Private Service and Public Use. United Kwy. 01 Habana. Matanzas R. R, Co....... t Connecting br'nch fr'm Union Station of the United R. R. to Alfonso X. 6.i96 And from Coliseo Station to the Guamnacaro Valley......i6moo Guareiras to Colon.... io.ooo Navajas to Atrevido... 15-500 Torriente to Jaguiey Grande. I4.000 Branch from Gdiiira 't'o several plantations toward the south.... 14.000 Guareiras to Cumanayagua.........14.650 Branch to Cabezas...-. i8.6oo Jagiiey Grande to Murza...4 I77.621 22. 1 96 98.235 38.846 ICatrdenas and Jitcaro R.R....... Calimete to Amarillas. 6.374 Amarillas to Aguada.. 13.1I22 Cuba CenralAguada to Yaguaramas 19.350 Rwy.. Palmira to Parque Alto 25.000 From tAe 43rd kilometer of the Cienfuegos line to San Juan de los Yeros.......8.000 Caibarien to Zaza in Placetas (narrow gauge)........35.700 OF HAVANA AND CUBA 233 Names of the Companies. Emilio Terry (concessionary)........... Operating Extension. Lines Included. Partial. Total. General Service. Kilo- KiloHabana R. R. Co.: meters. meters. Sagua to Chinchilla (narrow gauge)..... 8,720 Chinchilla to Caguaguas (narrow gauge) 6,600 Branch from the 52d kilometer of the Sagua line to Calabazar................. 3.000 87.020 From the Caracas sugar plantation to the Limones district. 25.000 From the x8th kilometer of Caracas line to the Salado River.... I6.ooo Private Service. 244 of this kind have been authorized from the Spanish Government, with 660 kilometers of total length. We do not specify in this division as before, because we have not been able yet to obtain exact notices of all the lines of this class that are operating again. 41.000 SUMMARY. ~SUMMARY. Kilometers.' General service.............................1,502.537 Private service and public use. 287.297 Private service (nearly)................... 660.00o Total......................................2,449.834' GUILLERMO F. RIVA, Inspector of Railroads for the Island of Cuba. Habana, August 15, 1899. 1A kilometer is.62137 of one mile. 234 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK The total number of miles, therefore, is something over 1,400. Sir William Van Home, formerly president of the Canadian Pacific Railway, is at the head of a syndicate of English, Canadian and New York capitalists, which has purchased many of the railroads of Cuba and intends to secure the remainder, with a view to consolidating all the railroads in the island under its control. Cuba will unquestionably have, within a comparatively short time, an excellent and complete railroad system, as this syndicate intends to extend some of the lines already acquired and to build new ones in the immediate future. INVESTMENTS. With one of the richest soils and finest climates in the world, with vast mineral resources, with its capacity for growing not only a great variety of tropical and subtropical fruits and vegetables, but also many of those raised in the temperate zones, with its numerous fine harbors, and with many other advantages, among which is its location in close proximity to numerous other islands and to the United States, Mexico, Central and South America, Cuba would seem to offer unexcelled opportunities for profitable investments. OF HAVANA AND CUBA 235 Sir William Van Home, to whom reference has just been made, has for himself and other capitalists, purchased vast tracts of timber lands in the island, showing his and their confidence in the future prosperity of that country. A very large amount of English, German, French and Spanish capital is already invested there in different enterprises. Within the last year or two many New England and New York capitalists have made large investments in Cuba, and Southern capitalists have also invested heavily there. With a population of only about I,5oo,ooo, and with the capability of easily supporting at least Io,ooo,ooo of people, it can readily be seen that a vast amount of money will be required for the purposes of opening up and settling the island, for building roads and for improvements of every kind. There is probably no other field where a person with even moderate means can obtain better returns for the money invested than in Cuba. 236 NORTON S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK CUBA. ITS ADMINISTRATION UNDER SPANISH RULE.1 The government of Cuba by Spain was essentially that of a military despotism. At its head was the Captain-General, who, by virtue of his office, was also Governor-General of the island. He bore both titles. He was appointed by the Crown and his term of office was from three to five years. His military rank was that of Lieutenant-General. He had a Spanish army of I3,000 troops. The Cubans paid for its maintenance. He was the supreme head of the civil, ecclesiastical, military and naval organizations in the island. He appointed one of the three persons selected by each provincial assembly to be the speaker of that assembly. But he could, if he chose, appoint any other member to this position. As Governor-General, he could overrule any decision of any court, and could "suspend any law or order emanating from the government." The Governor-General had a "Council of Admin1 The account here given of the Spanish system of government for Cuba is taken from General Brooke's "Report," from "Military Notes on Cuba," and especially from "Census of Cuba," I899, Bulletin No. I. .................................................... | I I I iiiiiiiiiiiiii~~~~~~~~......................rr. I OF HAVANA AND CUBA 237 istration," composed of 30 members, 15 appointed by the crown and 15 elected by the provinces. Elections were manipulated in such a way that the Government generally had a large majority. The Governor-General could suspend from I to 14 of the members at his will. The Governor-General was assisted in the duties of his office by a "Council of Authorities." This was an advisory body, and, besides, it prepared the budget and passed resolutions on necessary public matters. The Governor-General could affirm or reject these resolutions. The Council of Authorities was composed of the Archbishop of Santiago, the Bishop of Havana, the commanding officers of the army and navy, the Chief Justice of the Audiencia of Havana, the Attorney-General, the head of the Department of Finance, and the Director of the local administration. The heads of the departments, except that of the Executive Department, were members of the Council. The Council met whenever a case arose requiring its action. Each province had a Governor, who was appointed by the Captain-General, and who could be removed by the latter. The provincial Governor's salary ranged from $4,000 to $6,ooo, Spanish gold, according as to whether his province was a first, second, or third class province. The provincial Gov16 238 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK ernor was generally an officer of the army with the rank of Major-General or Brigadier-General. He was responsible to the Captain-General. Each province had an Assembly, or "Provincial Deputation," composed of from 12 to 20 members, who were elected by the voters of the province. The elections were held early in September, and the Assembly had two sessions a year, one in November and the other in April. The members were elected for four years. Three candidates for the speakership were balloted for by the Assembly, and the Captain-General appointed one of the three selected, to be its Speaker. He might, however, appoint any other member of the Assembly to this office. The Governor of the province, could, if he so desired, preside over the Assembly, and could vote if he wished. He had power to prorogue the Assembly and report his action to the Governor-General, who in turn, might prorogue any of the provincial assemblies and report the fact to the Government in Spain. The provincial Governor nominated five members of the Assembly, for the Governor-General to confirm, as a local Cabinet, or "Provincial Committee." The Governor of the province inspected the councils and the municipalities, and reported to the Governor-General. He was responsible for the OF HAVANA AND CUBA 239 public order of the province, and its military authorities were under his control. The Assembly, or Provincial Deputation, had control over the public roads, harbors, navigation, immigration and all kinds of public works of the province, of charitable institutions, of those of instruction, of fairs, expositions, and the like, and of the provincial funds. The Governor appointed a secretary, auditor and treasurer of the Deputation on its recommendation. The American Military Governor of the island abolished the Provincial Deputation by an order, dated February 24, 1899, and the government of the provinces is now vested in the civil governors. The political unit of the Spanish system of government is the "Municipal District." "Under the laws of Spain a municipality is the legal association of all persons who reside in a municipal district, and is represented by a municipal council as a financial administrative corporation. A municipal district is the territory under the administration of a municipal council."1 A municipal district nearly corresponds to the township or to the county in the United States, and each district must contain at least 2,000 inhabitants. Each municipal district forms part of a judicial dis1 "Census of Cuba," Bulletin No. I, 5. 240 NORTON S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK trict. The six provinces of Cuba contain, all told, 31 judicial districts and 132 municipal districts. Each municipal district is divided into subdistricts, the latter into barrios, or wards, and, for political purposes, the sub-districts are also divided into electoral districts, and the latter into electoral sections. The seat of government of the municipal district is the principal town or city in the district. Each municipal district has a "Municipal Council" and a "Municipal Board." The Council is composed of a mayor, deputy-mayors, and aldermen selected from the members of the Council. The latter governs the district, subject to the control of the provincial governor and of the military governor of the island. Each district is entitled to a number of councilors as follows: Up to 500 inhabitants, 5. Between 500 and 800 inhabitants, 6. Between 800 and I,000 inhabitants, 7. Between I,ooo and 1o,ooo inhabitants, an additional councilor for each additional 1,ooo. Between I0,000 and 20,000 inhabitants, an additional councilor for each additional 2,000. For more than 20,000, one for every additional 2,000. Thirty councilors is the greatest number any municipal district is allowed. A municipal district containing less than 800 inhabitants has no deputy mayor. If it contains between 800 and I,ooo inhabitants, it has one deputy mayor. OF HAVANA AND CUBA 241 If it contains between I,ooo and 6,ooo inhabitants, it has two deputy mayors. If it contains between 6,oo00 and Io,000 inhabitants, it has three deputy mayors. If it contains between Io,ooo and I8,000 inhabitants, it has four deputy mayors. If it contains more than I8,000 inhabitants, it has five deputy mayors. Up to 800 inhabitants there is one sub-district. Between 800 and,000o inhabitants there are two subdistricts. Thereafter the number corresponds to the number of deputy mayors. Each deputy mayor has charge of one sub-district, under the direction of the mayor. Up to 3,000 inhabitants there is one electoral district. Between 3,000 and 6,000 inhabitants there are three electoral districts. Between 6,ooo and Io,ooo inhabitants there are four electoral districts. Between Io,ooo and I8,00o inhabitants there are five electoral districts. For I8,000 or more inhabitants there are six electoral districts. The members of the council are elected by the voters of the municipality, one-half being renewed every two years. The regular elections occur the first two weeks in May. The qualified voters are male citizens over 25 years of age. They must have lived at least two years in the municipality. The council elected its mayor from its own members. At present, the Military Governor appoints the mayor and deputy-mayors of each municipality from among the councilors, on their recommenda 242 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK tion, but may, if he choose, appoint a person as mayor not belonging to the council or municipal district. Each ward has a mayor, appointed by the mayor of the municipality, who keeps a register of the horses, mules and cattle in his ward, and who acts in other matters under the direction of the deputy-mayor of the sub-district to which his ward belongs. Each Municipal Council has a secretary, now appointed by the Military Governor, on the recommendation of the Council. The Council appoints from among its members, one or more procuradores sindicos, or fiscal attorneys, who represent the Council in litigation, and who revise and audit all local accounts and budgets. Those members of the Council who, after it is fully organized, have not been appointed to other offices in the Council are called aldermen. The mayor and secretary of the Municipality are the only officers who have a salary. The mayor and deputy-mayors must vote on every resolution, and they and the fiscal attorneys have the right to speak on all questions. The mayor presides over the meetings of the Council and represents it at all times. In case of a tie his vote decides. He cannot veto nor can he exercise the appointing power. The Council makes OF HAVANA AND CUBA 243 up committees, which are similar in their duties and powers to departments and boards of municipal governments in the United States. The Municipal Council must meet at least once each week. If members are absent from the meeting they pay fines. The provincial Governor can suspend the mayor, the deputy-mayors, the aldermen, and also the resolutions of the Council. The Military Governor can remove all municipal officers, and appoint others to their places, and can modify or annul the proceedings of the Council. The Municipal Board consists of the Municipal Council and an equal number of Associate Members, elected from among the taxpayers of the district. The associate members hold office for a year. This Board has the duty of revising the annual budget of municipal expense as prepared by the Council, and to fix the amount of taxes according to the law. The mayor is called in Spanish Alcalde and the Municipal Council is named the Ayuntamiento. The Municipal Board is also called the Municipal Junta. "The Judicial system of the island, beginning with the lowest court, consisted of the municipal courts, the jurisdiction of whose judges was local, for minor criminal offenses; the courts of first instance' and 1 Primera instancia. 244 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK instruction, which formed the lower branch of the judicial organization of the state; the audiencias, or provincial courts, one for each province, but only three of which (those at Habana, Matanzas and Santiago) had both civil and criminal jurisdiction; the other three had criminal jurisdiction only, the civil cases in the province of Pinar del Rio coming before the audiencia at Habana, those of the province of Santa Clara going to Matanzas, and those of Puerto Principe to Santiago. The supreme court (tribunal supremo) was at Madrid."1 The first class of audiencias were called territorial, and the second, de lo criminal. On January 9, 1879, an act was passed allowing Cuba representation in the Spanish Cortes. The Province of Havana sent three senators to Madrid, and the other provinces, two each. The Archbishopric of Santiago sent one, the University of Havana one, and the Society of Friends of the Country, one. Thirty deputies, one deputy for every 50,000 of inhabitants, elected by the people, represented the island in the House of Deputies at Madrid. Only a few native Cubans were sent to the House, the majority of those to which the island was entitled being natives of Spain. 1 General Brooke's "Report,' I65, 249. fI~~B~A i:~ l i~F~'S~ii~ ~~~~ V ~~~~ ~;~) Si S OF HAVANA AND CUBA 245 MILITARY OCCUPATION OF CUBA BY THE UNITED STATES.1 The last fight of the war in Cuba was the bombardment of Manzanillo during the afternoon and night of August 12, I898. On that day, a protocol was signed at Washington, providing for the immediate cessation of hostilities, and for the meeting of commissioners at Paris, not later than October I, I898, for the purpose of negotiating a treaty of peace. The treaty of Paris was the result of the conference of the peace commissioners. This treaty was signed at Paris, December 12, I898. On July I7, I898, Gen. Jose Toral, the Spanish commander, surrendered, under the terms of a military convention July I6, I898, the city of Santiago de Cuba together with that portion of the province of Santiago lying east of a line drawn through Acerraderos, Dos Palmas, Cauto and Aguilera, to General Shafter, and Gen. C. McKibben was appointed Military Governor.2 On July 20, 1898, Gen. Leonard Wood was appointed Military Governor 1 General Brooke's "Report" has been made the basis of the account here given of the Military Government of the island by the United States. 2 George Clarke Musgrave, "Under Three Flags in Cuba," 346. 246 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK of that city and of that part of the Province of Santiago surrendered by the terms of the military convention of July I6, I898, and later became Military Governor of all that province together with that of Puerto Principe. The military occupation of the island, in the strict sense of that term, except the portion under General Wood's governorship, did not begin until January I, I899.1 During the period between the close of the war and the commencement of the military occupation of Cuba, the civil government of the island was in a chaotic condition. In many cases the judicial, municipal and provincial officials resigned, and their places were filled by the Spanish commanders from the Autonomist party. Cubans were in many cases elected to municipal offices. In some portions of the island all civil government ceased. In fact, it is difficult to characterize the exact condition of Cuba during this period, so far as it relates to the administration of civil government. 1 Prior to this date, however, the other provinces had come, one after another, under the command of different generals; the province of Puerto Principe, under that of Gen. G. H. Carpenter; of Matanzas, under that of Gen. James H. Wilson: of Santa Clara, under that of Gen. John C. Bates; of Pinar del Rio, under that of Gen. Geo. W. Davis, and of Havana, under that of Gen. Fitzhugh Lee. Charles M. Pepper, "Tomorrow in Cuba," 294. OF HAVANA AND CUBA 247 ORGANIZATION OF MILITARY GOVERNMENT. December 13, 1898, President McKinley issued an order (General Orders, No. 184), creating a division to be known as the Division of Cuba, "consistting of the geographical departments and provinces of the island of Cuba, with headquarters at the city of Habana." Maj.-Gen. John R. Brooke, by the same order, was appointed Military Governor of the Division of Cuba, and was to continue in command of the troops in the island. December 27, 1898, General Brooke arrived in Havana, and January i, 1899, at 12:30 p. m., the last Spanish troops were on board transports in the harbor of that city. At 2:oo o'clock noon on that day, the ceremonies of the relinquishment by Spain of sovereignty over the island of Cuba, took place in the Governor-General's Palace. There were present Jimenez Castellanos, the Captain-General, and his staff, Military Governor John R. Brooke and his staff, Maj.-Gen. Fitzhugh Lee, Maj.-Gen. William Ludlow, Maj.-Gen. J. Warren Keiffer, and their staffs, and nine Cuban Generals, the guests of General Brooke. The Captain-General made a speech and this was replied to by General Wade, Chairman of the United States Evacuation Committee. 248 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK CIVIL DEPARTMENTS. On January II, I899, General Brooke issued an order creating four departments to administer the civil affairs of the island: I. The Department of State and Government. 2. The Department of Finance. 3. The Department of Justice and Public Instruction. 4. The Department of Agriculture, Commerce, Industries and Public Works. January I2, I899, General Brooke appointed the following gentlemen secretaries of these departments: Domingo Mendez Capote, Secretary of Department of State. Pablo Desvernine, Secretary of Department of Finance. Jose Antonio Gonzales Lanuza, Secretary of Department of Justice, etc. Adolfo Saenz Yanez, Secretary of Department of Agriculture, etc. MILITARY DEPARTMENTS. The Division of Cuba was subdivided into four military departments as follows: I. Department of the West, composed of the OF HAVANA AND CUBA 249 provinces of Pinar del Rio and Havana, exclusive of the City of Havana. 2. Department of the Center, composed of the provinces of Matanzas and Santa Clara. 3. Department of the East, composed of the provinces of Santiago de Cuba and Puerto Principe. 4. Department of the City of Havana, including the municipalities of Regla, Guanabacoa and Santa Maria del Rosario,-55 square miles. Gen. William Ludlow was appointed Military Governor of the Department of the City of Havana, General Orders, No. I34, December 13, I898; Gen. Fitzhugh Lee was appointed Military Governor of the Department of the West; Gen. James H. Wilson was appointed Military Governor of the Department of the Center, and Gen. Leonard Wood was appointed Military Governor of the Department of the East. ORGANIZATION OF SUPREME COURT. Under Spanish rule, the court of last resort for insular litigation was the supreme court at Madrid. When Spain relinquished her sovereignty over Cuba, the jurisdiction of the supreme court at Madrid ceased, so far as that island was concerned. It became necessary for the military government, when the island came under its rule, to organize a 250 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK supreme court to take the place of the one which had disappeared with the fall of Spanish sovereignty. The Military Governor published an order April 14, I899, creating a Supreme Court, to sit in the capital, Havana, and to have jurisdiction throughout Cuban territory. It was to be composed of a president, or chief justice, and six associate justices, with a fiscal (prosecuting attorney), clerks, etc. This court acts in two characters, as a court of justice and in an administrative capacity. As a court of justice it sits as a single body, and consists of the president and his six associate justices. Five justices constitute a quorum for the purpose of rendering judgment, except in cases of appeals from sentences involving capital punishment or "perpetual" penalties, when the seven members must all sit at the hearing. In all cases a majority of the court must concur in the decisions. This court as a court of justice has jurisdiction in five kinds of criminal actions, which are designated in the order creating the court; in actions for civil liabilities against the chief justice, and certain other persons named; in the matter of the review of the rulings of the audiencias denying the right of appeal to the supreme court, in cases in which are alleged errors of law, of legal doctrine, or defects in pro OF HAVANA AND CUBA 25I cedure; in cases of petitions for annulment of judgment for alleged error in law or legal doctrine, when the hearing of such petitions has been admitted; in cases of petitions for amendment of judgments for defects of form in procedure, where the petitions have been admitted; in cases of petitions for revision in civil, criminal, and administrative matters (contencioso administrativo); in the execution of decisions rendered by foreign courts in accordance with treaties and laws; in extradition proceedings in such cases wherein the supreme court has jurisdiction, and in some other cases. Criminal cases coming under any of the five heads before mentioned, over which the supreme court has original and exclusive jurisdiction, are to be tried orally and in public. When in administrative session, the supreme court is composed of the president and associate justices of the court, but in this case the fiscal, or assistant fiscal, must be present and shall have the right to speak and vote. Five members of the court constitute a quorum for business. All decisions must be made by a majority of the members present. Sitting in its administrative capacity, it is to supervise the administration of justice throughout Cuban territory, to make reports when the govern 252 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK ment requests, concerning the administration of justice, organization of courts and the like, and it has a number of other somewhat similar duties to perform. The president receives an annual salary of $6,000, the fiscal $5,700, and each associate judge $5,000. "The supreme court which we have now in Cuba can be said to reproduce in its essentials the supreme court of Spain."' The supreme court for Cuba, as organized under the military government, differs from the supreme court of Spain, in that it has but one court of justice, while the one in Spain has three branches, one for civil affairs, one for criminal cases and a third which decides as to the admission of the "recourses"2 called "'for error in law or legal doctrine.'" "But in the essential character this court, like the one in Spain, is a court of abrogation and revision (casacion and revision), appeals for annulment of judgment and revision to determine whether appeal shall be admitted or denied."3 Appeals for annulment of judgment carry before the supreme court mere questions of right. The audiencias decide in a final manner as to the facts. 1 Report of J. A. G. Lanuza, Secretary of Justice, etc., to General Brooke, dated Sept. I6, I899. General Brooke's "Report," 252. 2 That is, appeals. 3 General Brooke's "Report," 252. OF HAVANA AND CUBA 253 The supreme court deals, in this case, merely with the question of error in law or error in the essential form of procedure. The insular court has original jurisdiction in certain criminal cases, as before stated, which the supreme court of Spain did not have. The Spanish supreme court decides whether appeals from the judgments of the audiencias shall be admitted, and if admitted, it then renders judgment upon the main question. As now organized, the supreme court of Cuba simply passes upon the main question, the audiencias determining whether appeals shall be allowed or denied. REORGANIZATION OF THE AUDIENCIAS. Under the Spanish administration of the island of Cuba, there were six audiencias, or provincial courts, viz.: Those of Pinar del Rio, Havana, Matanzas, Santa Clara, Puerto Principe and Santiago de Cuba, one for each of the provinces of the island. The audiencias of Havana, Matanzas and Santiago de Cuba had both civil and criminal jurisdiction, and were known as "territorial" audiencias; the audiencia of Havana had cognizance of the civil cases of the province of Havana and of Pinar del Rio; that of Matanzas, of the civil cases of that province and of those of Santa Clara, and that of 17 254 NORTON S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK Santiago de Cuba, over the civil cases of that province and of those of Puerto Principe. The audiencias of Pinar del Rio, Santa Clara and Puerto Principe had jurisdiction of criminal cases only, each being limited in its jurisdiction merely to the criminal cases of its own province. These latter three audiencias were known as de lo criminal. It will be seen that "each province had thus its own' criminal jurisdiction, and every two provinces had a court of appeals with civil jurisdiction." The audiencia of Havana had a special and higher rank, those of Matanzas and Santiago de Cuba came next, and the lowest in rank were the three de lo criminal courts. As now constituted under an order of the Military Governor, published June I5, I899, all six audiencias have both civil and criminal jurisdiction, limited to their respective provinces. All are of equal rank, except that the audiencia of Havana has a superior rank in certain respects, viz.: it has a larger number of judges and other officials, its officers receive somewhat higher salaries, and it has the contencioso administrativo jurisdiction in addition to its civil and criminal jurisdiction.1 1The Military Governor of the island appoints the judges of each audiencia. The audiencias have original jurisdiction in all criminal cases from petit larceny to murder. OF HAVANA AND CUBA 255 Questions of an administrative character gave rise, under Spanish rule, to suits brought by parties against the administration. If the government published an order not appealable before a higher authority of the government, the question, contencioso administrativo, could be taken before a court having jurisdiction of the matter. There were various cases in which this jurisdiction might be exercised, but it could not be exercised in any case over which the ordinary civil or criminal courts had jurisdiction, nor in any case where the officer of government had discretional authority. Under the Spanish system, a special court, composed of associate justices of the sala de lo civil of the Havana audiencia and members of the "'permanent commission'" of the provincial deputation, administrative officers, exercised this jurisdiction. Under the reorganization of the audiencias this contencioso administrativo jurisdiction was assigned to the audiencia of Havana. The audiencia of Havana in its civil and administrative branch (sala de lo civil y contencioso) has a president and four associate justices; in its criminal branch, (sala de lo criminal), it has a president of the court (sala), who presides over one section of this court, and two associate justices; the other section of this court is composed of three associate 256 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK justices presided over by the senior associate justice; sitting in administrative session, or sala de gobierno, it is then composed of its president, the presiding justice of the criminal court, the two senior associate justices of the audiencia, and the fiscal. The audiencias of Matanzas, Santa Clara, and Santiago de Cuba are composed of a president and four associate justices, each; and those of Pinar del Rio and Puerto Principe are composed of a president and three associate justices, each. The audiencia of Havana has a fiscal (prosecuting attorney), an assistant fiscal and five deputy fiscals. The other audiencias have each a fiscal and assistant fiscal. In all the audiencias there are secretaries, clerks, etc., and "substitute justices," who must be lawyers in good standing, to sit in case a number of justices are unable to be present, sufficient to decide the issue. All the other audiencias, as well as that of Havana, also sit in administrative session (de gobierno). The president of the audiencia of Havana receives an annual salary of............ $5,500 The president of the criminal court of Havana receives an annual salary of...... 5,ooo The fiscal of the audiencia of Havana receives an annual salary of.............. 5,000 The associate justices of this audiencia receive, each, an annual salary of........ 4,500 The presidents of the other audiencias receive, each, an annual salary of........ 4,500 OF HAVANA AND CUBA 257 The fiscals of the other audiencias receive, each, an annual salary of.............. $4,250 The associate justices of the other audiencias receive, each, an annual salary of....... 4,000 Sitting as courts of justice, the audiencias have jurisdiction over business and decide cases referred to them by the laws of procedure, and other provisions relating to this subject. In administrative session, they exercise powers similar to those exercised by the supreme court, when sitting in administrative session, but their powers and jurisdiction are confined to their judicial territory. They also exercise certain powers of recommendation to the Military Governor, as to the filling of some particular positions in cases of vacancy. "Wherein the audiencias have remained as they were is in their jurisdiction, or rather (as civil jurisdiction has been given to three that did not have it), in what constituted the essential being of such judicial organizations. In fact, now, as formerly, the audiencias, in whatever concerns their civil jurisdiction, are courts of appeal that have cognizance of cases established against judgments rendered by judges of primera instancia; and in whatever concerns criminal jurisdiction they are courts composed of several justices with original jurisdiction, who have cognizance of 'oral and public trials' in criminal cases whose preliminary proceedings 258 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK have been carried before the judge of instruction."' COURTS OF THE FIRST INSTANCE AND MUNICIPAL COURTS. Merely to present a symmetrical view of the whole insular judicial system, a brief account of the courts of first instance (primera instancia) and of the municipal courts, is here added. In each municipal district there is one municipal court, and in some districts there are two or more such courts, composed of a judge, a secretary and a clerk, the latter also acting in the capacity of constable or bailiff. The audiencias appoint the judges. The municipal courts have jurisdiction in civil suits involving an amount not to exceed $200, and jurisdiction over all misdemeanors such as the violation of municipal ordinances. They keep registers of births, deaths, marriages and property, and act as substitutes of the judges of the first instance in cases in which the latter cannot for any reason act. Several municipal districts form a judicial district, and the Military Governor appoints a judge who presides over its court of the first instance and instruction. This court consists of the judge, four notaries, four clerks, a doctor and two constables, and has civil jurisdiction in all cases where 1 General Brooke's "Report," 264. OF HAVANA AND CUBA 259 the amount involved exceeds $200, and appellate jurisdiction in cases appealed to it from the municipal court. It makes preliminary examinations in all criminal cases. Appeals from this court go to the audiencia.1 PAYMENT OF THE CUBAN ARMY. There were many millions of money due, at the close of the war, to the Cuban army, officers and privates, as salary and wages. Many of them were without any means of subsistence, and to disband the army without, in some way, providing its members with means to start in peaceful pursuits, would be to drive many of them to desperation and crime. It was finally determined that $3,000,000 should be paid to the members of the army. Robert P. Porter, as special commissioner, represented the United States in the negotiations and Gen. Maximo Gomez represented the Cuban army. It had been the intention to give to each officer and to each soldier $Ioo based on an estimate of 30,000 men. The actual number of men as shown by the rolls was 39,966. It was finally determined to omit such officers and soldiers as had been employed by the military government as rural police, clerks, etc.; 40,000 was taken as the divisor, and 1 "Census of Cuba," Bulletin No. I, p. 9. 260 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK this gave each man $75. After deducting from the total number of enrolled men those employed as just stated, there were 33,930 men who were paid $75 each, making a total of $2,544,750 actually disbursed, and leaving a balance of $455,250 which was returned to the United States. The total expenses of the distribution were $35,518.96, and this amount was paid from the revenues of Cuba. The first payment was made on May 27, 1899. The disbursement was made under the supervision of the Military Governor.' DEPARTMENT OF POSTS. On December 21, I898, Estes G. Rathbone was appointed Director-General of Posts for Cuba, and assumed the duties of his office, at Havana, January I, 1899. He at once proceeded to organize the postal service of the island, which had been left by the Spanish authorities at the time of the relinquishment of sovereignty over Cuba in a chaotic condition. The following bureaus, as part of the postal system were created: Bureau of Finance, " Postal Accounts, " "Translation, 1 General Brooke's "Report," I6, I29. OF HAVANA AND CUBA 26I Bureau of Appointments, "( " Transportation, " Special Agents. Money-Order Bureau, Registry " Dead-Letter " COLLECTION DISTRICT-CUSTOMS DUTIES. General Orders, No. I86, December I3, 1898, constituted the island of Cuba and all the islands of the West Indies west of 74~ west longitude, evacuated by Spain, into a collection district for the collection of customs duties. Havana was made, by this order, the chief port of entry. Matanzas, Cardenas, Cienfuegos, Sagua la Grande, Caibarien, Santiago, Manzanillo, Nuevitas, Guantanamo, Gibara and Baracoa were made sub-ports of entry, each with a collector. Later the ports of Trinidad, Santa Cruz del Sur, Tunas de Zaza and Batabano were also made sub-ports of entry. Several of these ports were afterwards discontinued. Col. Tasker H. Bliss was, on December 20, 1898, by Special Order, No. 299, appointed Collector of Customs for Cuba, with his office at Havana. He began his duties as collector at noon, January I, 1899. It became necessary to reorganize the whole 262 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK system of collecting duties, and Collector Bliss immediately set about the task. The total receipts from customs duties from all the ports during the six months ending June 30, I899, were $6,983,705.58. The total number of foreign vessels which entered at all ports during the same period was 2,226, with a total tonnage of 2,806,816; and for the same period the total number of coastwise vessels entering all the ports was 4,473, with a tonnage of 740,920. The number of vessels clearing for the same period was somewhat less. The total number of native employes in the customs service of Cuba on the first day of July, 1899, was 545; of Americans, 50; total 595. AUDITOR. The office of Auditor of the island of Cuba was created by order issued March I4, I899, and on March I8, I899, Maj. E. F. Ladd was appointed Auditor. SCHOOL SYSTEM-ELEMENTARY AND SUPERIOR SCHOOLS. BOARD OF EDUCATION. An order, December 6, I899, provided, in its essential features, as follows: For a Board of Education in each municipality of OF HAVANA AND CUBA 263 the island. The mayor is ex officio a member and president of the Board. In Havana the Board of Education consists of the mayor and eight other members; in the capital cities of the provinces and in the cities of Cardenas and Cienfuegos, of the mayor and six other members; and in each of the other municipalities of the island, of the mayor and four other members. The mayor appoints the other members of the Board, who hold office for two years. No salary is attached to the office. PUBLIC SCHOOLS. In every city or town of more than 500 inhabitants, there is one public school for boys and another for girls, or if so determined by the Board of Education, one school for both sexes. If more than 50 pupils are allowed in one room, an assistant teacher may be employed. These schools are designated as "complete" schools. Any town or village of less than 500 population with not less than 15 boys of school age-6 to I4 years, may organize an "incomplete" school, and the same provision applies to organization of a school for girls in such town. The minimum number of pupils for a "complete" school shall be 35. All children between the ages of 6 and 14 years, inclusive, must attend school, public or private, for 264 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK at least 30 weeks in each school year. For failure to comply with this requirement, parents are liable to a fine of from $5 to $25. TEACHERS. Any person, male or female, possessing the requisite scholarship and of proper character, may be employed as a teacher in the public schools. The salaries of teachers in the public schools, as fixed by this order are: In Havana, $75 per month; in the capitals of the provinces and in Cardenas and Cienfuegos, $60, and in all other municipalities, $50. Assistants in "complete" schools receive $30 a month. Beginning with the year 900o, the schools open on the second Monday of September each year. The first term ends December 24; the second term begins on January 2, and ends on Friday next preceding Holy Week, and the third term begins on the first Monday after Holy Week, and ends on the last Friday in June. There are 5 days of school in each week, each daily session not exceeding 5 hours. The course of study for elementary schools is: Reading, languages (Spanish and English), writing, arithmetic, geography, history, hygiene, music, drawing, and nature studies. OF HAVANA AND CUBA 265 The text books, pens, pencils, crayons, ink, etc., under this order, are furnished free. SUPERINTENDENT OF SCHOOLS. A Superintendent of Schools of Cuba has charge of the organization and management of the elementary, superior, and normal schools of the island, and is to report to the Secretary of Justice and Public Instruction. The Military Governor created the office of Superintendent of Schools of-Cuba, and November 2, 1899, Alexis E. Frye was appointed to that office. ORDER FOR TAKING CENSUS IN ISLAND OF CUBA. On August 31, I899, the Military Governor published an order, issued by the War Department, August 19, 1899, for the purpose of having a census of the "population, agricultural products, and of the educational conditions of Cuba" taken the work to begin on October 16, 1899, and to be completed on or before November 30, 1899. Lieut.-Col. J. P. Sanger, Inspector-General, was made Director of the Census, with his office in Washington, D. C., and Mr. Victor H. Olmsted was made Assistant Director, with his office in the city of Santa Clara, Cuba. Six Cubans were appointed as supervisors of the census, one for each province. The expenses 266 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK of taking the census are to be paid from the revenues of Cuba. ONLY CIVIL MARRIAGES VALID. On May 31, I899, General Brooke issued an order declaring that thereafter civil marriages alone should be legally valid. The parties marrying were at liberty to have any religious ceremony they might wish celebrated in addition to the formalities required to contract the civil marriage. General Wood has lately issued a decree modifying the former decree relating to marriage, making it optional with the contracting parties whether the marriage be civil, or religious, but declaring that marriage, so far as its validity is concerned, continues to be a civil contract. Religious marriages, solemnized as provided in the modifying decree, are to have the same force and effect as civil marriages have.1 1 "Havana Post," Sunday, Aug. 12, 90oo. OF HAVANA AND CUBA 267 GENERAL LEONARD WOOD, MILITARY GOVERNOR OF CUBA. On December 20, I899, General Brooke relinquished his command of the Division of Cuba, and transferred to Gen. Leonard Wood, his successor, the duties of the office of Military Governor of Cuba. General Brooke sailed from Havana December 23, I899, on the steamer Mascotte, at I:30 p. m. When the steamer passed Cabafa and Morro, seventeen guns at Cabafia were fired as a salute.' Under General Brooke's rule, the foundation of the island's future prosperity was laid. A very difficult and delicate task had been imposed upon him, and he performed it with wisdom and a large measure of success. General Wood has continued the good work inaugurated by General Brooke with credit to himself and to the administration which appointed him. Under his mild but firm rule, Cuba has steadily advanced in material prosperity and good government. On April 9, I900, an order was issued abolishing the Military Department of the City of Havana, and 1 "Havana Journal," Friday, April 20, I900. 268 NORTON'S COMPLETE IAND-BOOK consolidating it with the Military Department of the West-that of the provinces of Havana and Pinar del Rio. General Ludlow's duties as Military Governor of the City of Havana were, by this order, to terminate, and its civic affairs were to be in the hands of local officials, under the supervision of insular authorities. General Ludlow issued his last order under date of May I, I9o00. REGISTRATION OF SPANIARDS UNDER TREATY OF PARIS. Under Article IX of the Treaty of Paris, all Spanish subjects, natives of the Peninsula, residing in Cuba, or in other territory over which, by that treaty, Spain relinquished her sovereignty, were allowed to remain in such territory, and to carry on their commerce, industry and professions, "being subject in respect thereof to such laws as are applicable to other foreigners." "In case they remain in the territory they may preserve their allegiance to the crown of Spain by making, before a court of record within a year from the date of the exchange of ratifications of this treaty, a declaration of their decision to preserve such allegiance; in default of which declaration they shall be held to have renounced it and to have adopted the 1 "Havana Post," Saturday, May 5, I900. OF HAVANA AND CUBA 269 nationality of the territory in which they may reside." MUNICIPAL ELECTIONS-QUALIFICATIONS OF VOTERS. In June, I900, elections took place for the purpose of choosing officers to administer the civil affairs of the municipalities of the island. The elections passed off quietly. The qualifications which voters were required to possess were as follows: I. The voter must be a male of Cuban birth; or son of a native born Cuban, born while his parents temporarily resided abroad. 2. A Spaniard who had not registered his purpose of allegiance to the crown of Spain within the time required by the Treaty of Paris. And every voter must be able either, I. To read and write the Spanish language, or, 2. Must possess personal or real estate of the value of $250, or, 3. Must have served in the Cuban Army before July 18, I898. Criminals, lunatics, and other classes of persons usually prevented from exercising the right to vote, were by this order excluded from the elective franchise.1 1 "Havana Journal," Friday, April 20, I900. 18 270 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK CONVENTION TO FRAME A CONSTITUTION FOR CUBA. The Secretary of War made public July 31, I900, an order for holding an election to select delegates to a convention to be held for the purpose of framing a constitution for Cuba. The text of the convention order, as published in "The Havana Post," Tuesday, August 7, 900oo, is as follows: "The official order of the United States providing for a convention to form a constitution for Cuba is an interesting and historical document. It reads as follows: "'Whereas, the Congress of the United States, by its joint resolution of April 20, I898, declared: "'That the people of the island of Cuba are, and of right ought to be, free and independent. "'That the United States hereby disclaims any disposition or intention to exercise sovereignty, jurisdiction or control over said island, except for the pacification thereof, and asserts its determination, when that is accomplished, to leave the government and control of the island to its people.' "And, whereas, the people of Cuba have established municipal governments, deriving their authority from the suffrages of the people given under just and equal laws, and are now ready in like manner to proceed to the establishment of a general OF HAVANA AND CUBA 271 government, which shall assume and exercise sovereignty, jurisdiction and control over the island. "Therefore, it is ordered that a general election be held in the island of Cuba on the third Saturday of September, in the year I900, to elect delegates to a convention to meet in the city of Havana at I2 o'clock noon on the first Monday of November, in the year 900oo, to frame and adopt a constitution for the people of Cuba, and as a part thereof to provide for and agree with the government of the United States upon the relations to exist between that government and the government of Cuba, and to provide for the election by the people of officers under such constitution and the transfer of government to the officers so elected. "The election will be held in the several voting precincts of the island under and pursuant to the provisions of the election law of April I8, 900o, and the amendments thereof. "The people of the several provinces will elect delegates in number proportioned to their populations as determined by the census, viz.: "The people of the province of Pinar del Rio will elect three delegates. "The people of the province of Havana will elect eight delegates. 272 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK "The people of the province of Matanzas will elect four delegates. "The people of the province of Santa Clara will elect seven delegates. "The people of the province of Puerto Principe will elect two delegates. "The people of the province of Santiago will elect seven delegates." The following additional points relating to the elections were published in "The Havana Post," Thursday, August I6, I900: "Each province will also elect substitutes for its delegates." The following are the qualifications which each voter must possess: "The voter must be a native male Cuban or the son of a native male Cuban, born while his parents were temporarily residing abroad, or a Spaniard included within the provisions of Article IX of the Treaty of Paris, who has not made declaration of his decision to preserve his allegiance to the crown of Spain, as provided in said article. "He must be of the age of twenty-one years or upward on the day preceding the election. "He must have resided in the municipality in which he intends to vote at least thirty days immediately preceding the first day of registration,-and OF HAVANA AND CUBA 273 in addition to the above he must possess any one of the following qualifications: "Ability to read and write; ownership of real or personal property to the value of two hundred and fifty dollars, American gold; service in the Cuban army prior to July I8, I898, and honorable discharge therefrom, whether a native Cuban or not." BOARDS OF REGISTRATION. "Any person may be a candidate in any province who has the qualifications necessary to be an elector, even though he be not registered, no matter where he may reside or be domiciled at the time of the nomination or election, nor does the holding of public office disqualify, but he must be able to read and write. "On or before the 14th day of August, 900o, the mayor of each municipality shall appoint for each barrio of his municipality, as a board of registration, three persons and their substitutes, who have the qualifications of electors within their municipal districts. "The mayor must appoint for each such board one member and his substitute proposed by each of the parties now locally organized; but if a sufficient number of members or substitutes for any barrio be not proposed by noon of August I4, I900, the ayun 274 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK tamiento shall at a meeting called specially for this purpose, fill the vacancies without regard to party affiliations of those selected. "A period of ten days beginning August 15, 1900, is hereby declared as a period for additional registration for each municipality in the island of Cuba." NOMINATION OF CANDIDATES. "Any political party now organized within the province may nominate its candidates not in excess of the number to be elected from said province, as provided by Article I of this order, by filing a certificate of such nominations with the civil governor of the province. Independent candidates may also be nominated by filing a certificate of such nomination with the civil governor of the province, said certificate to be signed by at least two hundred registered voters of said province. Signatures to a certificate of nomination of an independent candidate must be followed by a statement of the residence of each signer. Qualified electors who are unable for any reason to write their names may specially request other electors to sign for them. Electors signing for others who cannot write must also sign their own names and state their residence. "All certificates of nomination must state the full name of the candidate or candidates nominated as OF HAVANA AND CUBA 275 members of the constitutional convention, and must also state the full name of the candidate nominated as alternate for each individual candidate for member of the convention. "The board of registration shall also act as the board of election, and the polls shall be held at the same place where the registration boards met. If, however, the registration lists show more than four hundred names there shall be appointed as many boards of election, consisting of three qualified electors, as may be necessary to have one polling place for every four hundred registered electors, each additional board of election to be named in the same manner as provided for the appointment of members of the board of registry by paragraph 5 of this order. "The alcalde will see that the proper number of voting places be provided for and publicly announced. "There shall be provided at each voting place separate apartments, or if this is not practicable, desks or tables sufficiently screened from observation of bystanders, at which the voter may prepare his ballot with absolute secrecy. "Any voter otherwise qualified, who is unable for any reason to mark and prepare his ballot, may call upon any member of the board of election present to assist him in preparing his ticket. 276 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK "Any person offering to vote may be orally challenged by any elector of the municipality at any time after he enters the polling place and before the ballot is actually deposited in the ballot box. "As soon as the polls are finally closed and the list certified the board must immediately proceed to count the votes given at such election, and the counting must be continued without adjournment until all the votes are counted and the result announced. Any political party organized or independent candidate may designate, in writing, to the board of election of any voting place, the name of any qualified elector who may represent such candidate at the polling place of the barrio, and who shall be entitled to be present during the continuance of the count. No other person shall be present during the counting of the votes. "No ballot or part of ballot must be rejected because of any obscurity therein, if the board from an inspection of the ballot can determine with certainty the person voted for. "If the names of more persons are designated on any ballot found in the box than are permitted by the provisions of Article XXVI, then the entire ballot must be rejected, and such rejection must at the time thereof be noted on the ballot, and signed by a majority of the board. OF HAVANA AND CUBA 277 "In case of a tie vote between two candidates, one of whom would be entitled to be declared elected, the board will withhold certificates of election and report the fact, so that the Constitutional Convention may decide which of the candidates shall be seated. MINORITY REPRESENTATION. "For the purpose of minority representation an elector in the province of Santiago shall only vote for four members and their substitutes; an elector in the province of Puerto Principe shall only vote for one member and his substitute; an elector in the province of Santa Clara shall only vote for four members and their substitutes; an elector in the province of Matanzas shall only vote for three members and their substitutes; an elector in the province of Havana shall only vote for five members and their substitutes and an elector in the province of Pinar del Rio shall only vote for two members and their substitutes. PROVINCIAL BOARD OF CANVASSERS. "On or before September 15, I900, each of the political parties locally organized in each province shall send to the military governor of the province a list, not to exceed six names, of the persons whom they may desire to nominate as the members of the 278 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK provincial board of canvassers. The military governor shall select from such lists nine persons, giving equal representation to each party when possible, and these shall form the provincial boards of canvassers. "The board shall meet on the i6th day of September and shall be in session continually until the votes shall have been counted." LIST OF DELEGATES TO FRAME CONSTITUTION FOR CUBA. Pursuant to the order issuing a call for the election of delegates to frame a constitution for Cuba, the people of the several provinces, on Saturday, September 15, 900o, elected delegates for that purpose. The following list of delegates to the convention is taken from "The Havana Post," Tuesday, November 6, I900: LIST OF CONSTITUTION FRAMERS. SANTIAGO DE CUBA. "Dudaldo Tamayo Pavon, Rafael Portuondo Tamayo, Antonio Bravo Correosa, Juan Gualberto Gomez, Jose Fernandez de Castro, Rafael Manduley, Joaquin Castillo Duany. "Alternates-Manuel Puentes Garcia, Augustin Cebreco Sanchez, Eduardo Yero Budden, Angel OF HAVANA AND CUBA 279 Clarnens, Francisco Chavez Milanes, Jose Ramon Torres, Jose Nicholas Ferrer. PUERTO PRINCIPE. "Manuel Ramon Silva y Rayas, Salvador Cisneros y Betancourt. "Alternates-Juan Ramon Xiques, Octavio Freirie. SANTA CLARA. "Jose Miguel Gomez, Enrique Villendas de la Torre, Jose Braulio Alerman Urquia, Jose do Jesus Monteagudo Consuegra, Pedro Gonzalez Llorente, Martin Morua Delgado, Jose Luis Robau Lores. MATANZAS. "Pedro E. Betancourt, Domingo Mendez Capote, Eliseo Giberga Fali, Louis Fortun. "Alternates-Juan A. Garmendia, Ernesto Castro Lajonchere, Ramon Pages Jimenis, Eduarda Dias Martinez. HABANA. "Jose Lacret Morlot, Alejandro Rodriguez, Emilio Nufiez Rodriguez, Miguel Gener y Rincon, Manuel Sanguily, Diego Tamayo, Leopold Berriel, Alfredo Zayas Alfonso. "Alternates-Manuel Serafin Pichardo, Leonardo 280 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK Rodriguez, Francisco Leyte Vidal, J. Lorenzo Castellanos, Carlos Font Sterling, Fernando Figuerdo, Federigo Mora, Gaston Mora Narona. PINAR DEL RIO. "Juan Rius Rivera, Joaquin M. Quilez, Gonzalo de Quesada. "Alternates-Antonio Gonzales Beltran, Jose R. Villalon, Manuel J. Manduley." The seats of several delegates will be contested. THE FORAKER RESOLUTION OR AMENDMENT. The following amendment, introduced by Senator Foraker, of Ohio, was added to the military appropriation bill, which Congress passed March 3, I899: "No property, franchise or concessions shall be granted by the United States or by any military or other authority whatever in the Island of Cuba during the occupation thereof by the United States." This resolution was passed with a view to protecting the people of the island from the rapacity of contractors with all sorts of plans for improvements, or alleged improvements, and the granting of railway and other concessions, which, during the military occupation of the island, might otherwise be allowed, thereby fastening upon the people millions of dollars of indebtedness, and fostering all sorts of extravagant and fraudulent schemes. OF HAVANA AND CUBA 28i Many concessions, it was claimed, had been granted by the Spanish authorities, and were binding contracts between the authorities granting and the persons obtaining the concessions. Investigation often showed these concessions to be incomplete, and of such a character as to demand their rejection. The military governors were relieved by this amendment of great responsibility and embarrassment in regard to these claims. On the whole, this prohibition has undoubtedly been beneficial to the people of Cuba, but at the same time it has prevented the prosecution of some public works and private enterprises which would have been very much to the interest of certain cities and localities. DUAL GOVERNMENT OF ISLAND-CIVIL AND MILITARY. January I, I899, the Military Governor issued a proclamation declaring it to be the object of the United States government, among other things, to give protection to the people, to restore confidence and to afford full protection in the exercise of all civil and religious rights. To that end these objects, it was announced, would be carried out through the "civil administration, although under military control," in the interest of the Cuban people and others possessing property in the island. 282 NORTON S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK "The civil and criminal code which prevailed prior to the relinquishment of Spanish sovereignty will remain in force, with such modifications and changes as may from time to time be found necessary in the interest of good government." The commanding generals of military departments exercise supervision, within their departments, over all matters not specially excepted from their jurisdiction. They are to examine into and report upon the administration of civil offices within their departments, and are to make immediate reports of any case of maladministration or lack of proper qualification of any public officer for the performance of the duties of his position. The better to illustrate the general character of the simultaneous working of the civil and military governments, in reference to some of the more important subjects of administration, Schedule No. 15, appended to the report of Dr. Domingo Mendez Capote, Secretary of the Department of State and Government, dated September i6, I899, to Military Governor Brooke, and shown in the latter's report, on pages 202-203, is here given: "No. I5-Synopsis of powers and attributions corresponding to the military governor, through this department; to the civil governors, to the mayors, and to the city councils. OF HAVANA AND CUBA 283 CCHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. "Military Governor.-Approval of the regulations, by-laws, budgets, accounts, classifications, creation, suppression of all institutions. "To authorize same to litigate; to name and appoint boards of patrons (directors), doctors, managers, stewards, and counsel. "To divide and assign estates without heirs as per article 956 of the civil code. "Civil Governor.-Appoints and renews the municipal boards (not councils); approves the regulations and budgets of same not above $IOO. "Inspection of the institutions. "Mayor.-Preside[s] over the municipal board and represent[s] by special delegation the civil governors. "City Council.-The sustenance of the municipal institutions under the inspection and surveillance of the civil governors. "SANITATION OF PUBLIC HEALTH. "Military Governor.-Inspection of all kinds of service annexed to this branch. Appointment of directors of all watering stations, and of the doctors of ports. "Authorize[s] the creation of cemeteries, and the approval of their regulations and tariffs. 284 NORTON S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK "Civil Governor.-To watch for the public health; appoint the municipal boards of health and the delegates and under-delegates, pharmaceutical, veterinary, and medical. "Mayor.-Preside[s] over the local boards of health. "City Council.-To hear and propose in everything connected with health of cities, towns, etc. "PENAL ESTABLISHMENT. "Military Governor.-General supervision over all penal establishments; general distribution of prisoners; appointment of high employees. "Appointment of the jail boards. "Civil Governor.-He is the head of these establishments and appoints all petty employees. "Mayor.-Presides over the local jail boards. "City Council.-Has the sustenance of the jails of their judicial districts. "POLICE. "The authorities of the [this] section of government, from the military governor down to the mayors, are in special charge, in their respective territories or districts, of the maintenance of order and peace. OF HAVANA AND CUBA 285 CrGENERAL AFFAIRS. "The military governor resolves in last resort of all claims and appeals against the resolutions of the civil governors. "The civil governor grants permissions to carry arms (weapons) for hunting or fishing; he presides over all theater boards; authorizes the creation of newspapers, and has to know of all the rules, regulations, and by-laws of all societies not mercantile. "CITY COUNCIL. "Military Governor.-He decides over territorial divisions; elections; appointment of mayors and assistant mayors; deeds [deals] with the administration. "Approves of municipal taxes and assessments. "Civil Governor.-Appoints councilmen and secretaries of city councils. "Imposes fines; suspends city councils and investigates. "Approves police regulations for rural and urban districts. "Authorizes the resolutions for the suppression or reform of any municipal institution of charity or school and all contracts with the municipality. "Revises municipal budgets. 19 286 NORTON S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK "Mayor.-Presides over the corporation and represents it. Is the executor of its resolutions and can suspend same whenever he thinks it does not lay [lie] with the city council to take it, by infringement of law, prejudice to general interest, or danger for order and peace. "He appoints the assistant mayors in the wards and decides over the inversion to be given to municipal funds. "City Council.-Appoints its municipal board and decides over"First-Opening of streets and roads. "Second-Paving, lighting, and sewerage. "Third-Water supply. "Fourth-Promenades and parks. "Fifth-Washing places, markets, and slaughterhouses. "Sixth-Schools and sanitation. "Seventh-Rural guard. "Eighth-Municipal regulations, urban and rural police. "Ninth-Appoints its employees. "Tenth-Makes its budget. "Eleventh-Census of neighbors. "Twelfth-Inscribes all rights of the municipality. "Thirteenth-Municipal police." OF HAVANA AND CUBA 287 POLITICAL PARTIES. There are three political parties in Cuba: I. The Cuban National Party. Among its most prominent leaders are: Gen. Maximo Gomez, Miguel Gener, Senior Messonier, Sefior Tamayo and Gen. Alejandro Roderiguez, now mayor of Havana. Nearly all the members of the insurgent army and the great mass of the common people belong to this party. It has within its membership nearly all of the revolutionists. The fundamental principle of this party is "Cuba Libre," "Free Cuba." It demands immediate and absolute independence, and declared, through General Gomez, that only revolutionists should be delegates to the convention which is to frame a Constitution for Cuba. So far as numbers are concerned. it is the strongest party in Cuba. 2. The Republican Party. Among its most distinguished leaders are: Jose Antonio Gonzalez Lanuza, Juan Gualberto Gomez and Estrada Mora. This party is largely made up of those who. formerly followed the leadership of General Gomez, but who are now his pronounced enemies. This party upholds the acts and principles of the late Assem 288 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK bly. Its platform is similar to that of the National Party. It opposes the military element in the island. It is thought that many of the members of this party supported the candidates of the Union Democratic party in the election of delegates to the Constitutional Convention, and that its members will ultimately join the latter party. It may be considered as the "third party" in the politics of the island. 3. The Union Democratic Party. The following are a few of its most distinguished leaders: Sefior Rafael Montoro, Signor Antonio Govin, Gen. Mayia Roderigues, Gen. Eusebio Hernandez, Gen. Garcia Velez, Fidel Pierra and Marcos Garcia. This is the conservative party of the island. Its followers are, as a whole, the wealthiest and best educated men in Cuba. Among its adherents are many of the most intelligent Cubans, probably all of the late Autonomist party, nine-tenths of all the Spaniards in the island, and some of the insurgent generals and other members of the insurgent army. It has generally been supposed that this party is fully committed to the idea of the annexation of the island to the United States, and that it is secretly, if not openly, working for the accomplishment of that object. This annexation sentiment seems to have prevailed up to within a few months, but there OF HAVANA AND CUBA 289 is hardly a doubt that this party would now prefer "Cuba Libre," if this result can be attained without revolution and anarchy. It also desires a republican form of government for the island, but not a republic of the disorderly, irresponsible kind, like some of the Central and South American republics, nor like that of Santo Domingo. The cardinal principles of this party are: Friendly relations with the United States, commercial and otherwise; such laws and institutions as shall give all elements in Cuba proper representation in the government of the country; and such a degree of autonomy for the provinces and the municipalities as shall be consistent with a liberal, but strong, supreme authority for the whole island. this party favors white immigration, and especially encourages those men who come to Cuba with their families. Such are, briefly, the political parties of Cuba, as they exist in the city and province of Havana; but in the other provinces their principles, on some points, may not be quite so definitely determined, nor quite the same. 290 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK CONCLUSION. Cuba, the beautiful and fertile, is about to take her place among the nations of the earth. For centuries an oppressed colony, afterward, for a short period, under the protection of a sympathetic neighbor, she will soon become a free and sovereign state. To attain this high destiny has been the noble ambition of her patriots in every generation. The American people saw her struggling with a heroism born only of sublime ideals, against a relentless foe-military despotism-and went to her rescue. Their sons joined her own in freedom's battle and laid upon its altar many lives as a sacrifice for Cuba's independence. The birth of a nation is an event which must turn the eyes of all civilized peoples toward the new state. The romantic, but sad, history of this isle, more favored by nature than, perhaps, any other territory on the face of the globe, has appealed to the imagination of the poet, to the powers of the descriptive writer, to the pen of the historian, to the brain of the statesman, and to the heart of the world. On Monday, November 5, I900, at twelve o'clock noon, there assembled in the city of Havana, Cuba, OF HAVANA AND CUBA 29I thirty-one delegates elected by the voters of the island for the purpose of framing a Constitution for the new state. Among these delegates are some of the most distinguished men of Cuba. All are men of ability and education. Will they give to Cuba a Constitution framed with a view to securing the greatest liberty to the individual consistent with the public welfare? Will they place the Constitution upon the solid rock of liberty, equality and fraternity? Will they so combine the ideal and the practical in the Constitution as to make this document a rule of lofty national conduct and at the same time an efficient working instrument in the affairs of state? Time alone can tell. Cuba's enemies assert that her people are incapable of self-government. Her friends are solicitous on this point. Whether the Cuban people are capable of forming and maintaining a strong, free government, can neither be absolutely affirmed nor denied, until they have been given a fair trial. Perhaps no person is better qualified to express an opinion in relation to the character of the islanders and their capacity for self-government than Gen. James H. Wilson, formerly Military Governor of the provinces of Matanzas and Santa Clara. In a report to General Brooke, then the Military Governor of Cuba, dated September 7, I899, General 292 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK Wilson stated (General Brooke's "Report," 330) that peace and tranquillity, at the time, prevailed "between all classes, colors, and races, and there is no apparent reason to fear that this is not a stable condition of the people. "When it is remembered that the white race is largely in the majority; that both the white Spaniards and Cubans, as well as colored people, are sober, orderly, law-abiding, and generally industrious, it may be fairly hoped that with the re-establishment of a reasonable degree of prosperity this gratifying state of affairs will continue to prevail." In the same report, 332, he says: "As before stated, the natives are naturally a sober, orderly, and inoffensive people, who willingly obey the constituted authority and rarely give violent cause for arrest." Before leaving Cuba for his new command in China, General Wilson was interviewed by a representative of the Havana Post. As reported in the issue of that paper dated July 24, 900o, the General said: "'Cuba is a good country and I have no fear whatever for her future. Her people are competent for self-government, and I have no doubt that at some time in the near future they will apply to the United States for admission.' " As quoted by the Havana Post, of July 20, I900, Gen. Leonard Wood, Military Governor of the OF HAVANA AND CUBA 293 island, said to a reporter for the Washington Star: "'As to the Cubans, they are a more intelligent race than they are believed to be by the people of the United States. They are, in my opinion, competent to govern themselves, a fact which I am sure they will demonstrate when the constitutional convention has been held.'" Perhaps no other American has had equal opportunities of judging the character and the capacities of the Cuban people for organizing and maintaining a stable government. His opinion, for many reasons, is entitled to great weight. The Cuban people have established municipal governments throughout the island. These are conducted in an orderly manner. Cuba has passed through two elections of an important character. In both cases the behavior of her people has been commendable. So far as they have had the opportunity, they have shown great self-control as well as intelligence in dealing with questions of government. It is generally understood that, after the constitution has been framed, it will be inspected by the President of the United States, and by Congress. The question at once arises, What, if any, control the United States government should exercise over the form or the contents of this instrument? This is a question concerning which there will be great differences of opinion. 294 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK The United States intervened in behalf of the oppressed Cubans on the single ground of humanity. Other considerations may have entered, in some degree, into the question of interference, but there was, and justly could be, only one all-sufficient reason for thus coming between the mother country and her colony-humanity. On the same ground, the United States having been successful, and having taken the Cubans under protection, would seem to have the right to insist that no provision shall be contained in the constitution which savors of oppression, or outrages the general sense of humanity. Suppose the constitution as finally framed defines treason against the new government, and declares that any person convicted of this crime shall be sentenced to die by the garrote; that every means shall be taken to prolong to the utmost limit, the victim's life while undergoing the sentence, in order that thereby the greatest amount of suffering may be inflicted; suppose that a provision is found in the constitution to the effect that Spanish residents of the island, accused of crime, shall not have the right to be tried in the courts, but shall be dealt with in a summary manner; is there any one who will for a moment question the right of this government to demand the erasure from the instrument of such provisions? While improbable, it is not impossible, OF HAVANA AND CUBA 295 that such excrescences will make their appearance in the constitution. Perhaps the United States may have the right to insist that strong guarantees of the personal liberty of the citizen and of protection to life and to property shall affirmatively appear in the fundamental law of the land. If such right is claimed it should be placed upon the one sufficient ground-that of humanity. The United States has assumed certain responsibilities toward the Cuban people, and must fully discharge these self-imposed duties. There should be no officious intermeddling, however, on the part of the government of the United States with the constitution framed by the delegates. Some have demanded an Anglo-Saxon constitution for Cuba. What would a Latin race do with an Anglo-Saxon constitution? What would one of the Anglo-Saxon nations do with a Latin constitution? The Anglo-Saxon peoples have no monopoly of virtue, patriotism and governmental wisdom. Neither have the Latin peoples. Each can borrow, with advantage, from the other. Cuba will no doubt profit by the many admirable things to be found in the constitution of the United States, as she likewise will by those to be found in other constitutions. What she needs is an instrument framed in a manner suited to the genius of her people. 296 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK Should the delegates adopt the constitution of the United States verbatim, so far as it could by any possibility be applied to the circumstances in which the Cubans find themselves placed, these representatives would not present to Cuba a constitution such as her people need and could use to the best advantage. Differences in race, in language, in modes of thought, in political experiences and aspirations, and in environment, render it impossible for one people successfully to adopt, in large measure, the fundamental instrument of government employed by another people. Certain language employed in the order fixing a date for the election of delegates to frame a constitution, has been the subject of much unfavorable comment in the United States, and has aroused the indignation of many Cubans. The order for an election recites, that, "Whereas, the Congress of the United States, by its joint resolution of April 20, I898, declared: "That the people of the island of Cuba are, and of right ought to be, free and independent. "That the United States hereby disclaims any disposition or intention to exercise sovereignty, jurisdiction or control over said island, except for the pacification thereof, and asserts its determination, OF HAVANA AND CUBA 297 when that is accomplished, to leave the government and the island to its people." The order further recites the fact that the people of Cuba have established municipal governments, and are "now ready in like manner to proceed to the establishment of a general government, which shall assume and exercise sovereignty, jurisdiction and control over the island." The order then declares that a general election shall be held on the third Saturday in September, 900o, to elect delegates to a convention to meet in the city of Havana on the first Monday of November, I900, to frame a constitution, "and as a part thereof to provide for and agree with the government of the United States upon the relations to exist between that government and the government of Cuba." It is the language last quoted that has given rise to so much adverse criticism. This language, at first glance, seems out of place. A constitution is the fundamental law of the land. It regulates the division of the sovereign powers of the state, and directs to what persons each class of powers is to be confided and the manner in which these powers are to be exercised. Its main function is to provide for the administration and the government of the state. It generally contemplates certain future relations with foreign countries, to be estab 298 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK lished through the medium of treaties, and for that purpose declares with what department or departments of the government the treaty-making power shall reside. Did the president in authorizing the order for the holding of an election of delegates to frame a constitution for Cuba, intend to convey by the use of the language in question, the idea that the government of the United States will insist upon the establishment, by means of that instrument, of certain definite and permanent relations between the two governments? It can hardly be supposed, after quoting the language of the joint resolution of Congress, and stating that the people of Cuba are now ready to form a general government "which shall exercise sovereignty, jurisdiction and control over the island," that the declaration in the order concerning the establishment of relations between the two governments, such relations to be fixed by the terms of the constitution, was meant to convey the idea that the United States government would coerce, if necessary, the delegates into providing in the document for such relationship and the Cuban people into adopting the instrument in this form. Had all reference to the fixing of a relationship between the two governments been omitted in the order, the fact might have been interpreted by the OF HAVANA AND CUBA 299 delegates that, under no circumstances, would the government of the United States allow either the annexation of Cuba to this country or assume a protectorate over her, however much her people might desire the accomplishment of either of these two objects. It is also to be noted that the delegates are to provide for and "agree with" the government of the United States upon the relations to exist between the two governments. There can be no agreement between two parties without the concurrence of both in the terms of the contract. If the delegates do not "provide for and agree with" the government of the United States as to the relations to exist between Cuba and the United States, the matter will be settled, so far as making such provision a part of the constitution is concerned, and must be left for future adjustment by treaty or other proper method, if the two governments mutually desire such relationship. Undoubtedly both nations will desire to negotiate a commercial treaty, perhaps in the form of a treaty of reciprocity, and will assume toward each other the most friendly relations. It is claimed by some that the United States must exercise a certain control over Cuba, must keep a garrison of troops in the island, and must insist that she shall not make 300 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK treaties with other countries, unless with the consent of the United States, and must not be permitted to maintain an army and a navy. If such is the case, it is difficult to see wherein the people of Cuba are, and of right ought to be, free and independent, as Congress declared in its joint resolution; wherein the government of the United States, having accomplished the pacification of the island as it claims to have done, leaves the government and control of the island to its people, as Congress declared in its joint resolution should be done; and wherein the government of the United States allows the Cuban people to establish a central government "which shall assume and exercise sovereignty, jurisdiction and control over the island," as set'forth in the order for the election of delegates to frame a constitution. It is said that the treaty with Spain has imposed upon the United States obligations which make it imperative that our government should retain control of the island. Article I6 of the treaty is a sufficient answer to this assumption. It reads as follows: "It is understood that any obligations assumed in this treaty by the United States with respect to Cuba are limited to the time of its occupancy thereof; but it will, upon the termination of OF HAVANA AND CUBA 3o0 such occupancy, advise any government established in the island to assume the same obligations." Suggestions of permanent control of Cuba by the United States, generally speaking, emanate from persons who desire that Cuba shall become a part of the United States, and who would, if they had it in their power, annex the island at once and by force. The American people, as a whole, wish to see Cuba a free state. Some of their countrymen, however, both in Cuba and in the United States, would be only too glad to see the island wrested from its people. Such Americans are both selfish and cruel. Thus far their rapacity has been held in check. The sentiment among the residents of the island is, as a whole, undoubtedly in favor of Cuba's complete independence. They wish to see her a sovereign nation. There are probably many exceptions in favor of either annexation to this country, or of a protectorate over the island by the government of the United States. Until within a few months the sentiment of the Spanish residents of the island was overwhelmingly in favor of annexation, but such is no longer the case. Several reasons may be assigned for this change of feeling on the subject. The Cuban people have latterly shown a disposition of friendliness toward the Spaniards. This is a result which might have been anticipated. The two 20 302 NORTON'S COMPLETE HAND-BOOK peoples are of one race, one blood, one speech, and one religion. The Cubans did not rebel against the Spaniards, but against Spanish military oppression and civil misrule. Here and there the spirit of hatred toward Spaniards, on the part of Cubans, may be manifested, but for the most part, the relationship between the two classes has become so much closer, that the Spaniards no longer fear retaliation at the hands of a Cuban government. Both Cubans and Spaniards are tired of foreign rule, whether military or civil. The Cubans feel that the land is theirs, and that they should possess it, while the Spaniards, provided their lives and property are safe, would much rather live under Cuban than under American rule. They probably realize that for a time they cannot hope to share very largely in the honors and the emoluments of office under Cuban administration, but believe, no doubt, that gradually they will receive the recognition in political affairs to which their wealth and abilities entitle them. There is another consideration of weight in the mind of the Spaniard against annexation. Annexation to the United States means free trade between the latter and Cuba. The Spaniards largely do the commercial business of the island. They are traders, money-makers. They do not want annexation OF HAVANA AND CUBA 303 for the same reason that the tobacco-growers throughout the United States, the fruit-raisers of the Southern States and of California and the sugarplanters of Louisiana, do not want it, namely, competition as the result of free trade between the two countries. All of Cuba's friends hope that a liberal constitution will be framed; that the government organized in pursuance of its provisions will be capable and strong; and that the welfare of the country will always be uppermost in the minds of those who are chosen to administer the nation's affairs. Above all it is to be hoped, while cherishing the memory of their departed heroes, and appreciating the virtues and illustrious deeds of those still living, that the Cuban people will not allow a military system to become the predominating element in the administration of government. The history of the island since its discovery by Columbus is an awful warning against military rule. To the people of Cuba must be left the task of demonstrating to the world their capacity for selfgovernment. Her destiny is in large measure in their hands. The blood of her martyrs cries out against oppression. The deeds of her patriots have made liberty possible to her. She will be true to herself, will become and will remain CUBA LIBRE. INDEX. Page Acana........................ 213 Accent............... 190 mark..................... 199 Aceitillo.............. 215 Administration of Cuba, under Sph. rule........ 236 Agraceje................ 217 Agracejo................. 217 Agriculture...............217-225 beans................... 223 beets................ 223 cabbage................. 223 cattle................ 221 celery................. 223 chinaroot.............. 223 coffee................. 220 copal.................... 223 corn..................... 222 cotton................. 223 cucumbers............... 223 ginger................. 223 honey.................... 223 lettuce................. 223 licorice.................. 223 mustard............... 223 onions.................... 223 peanuts................. 223 pepper................. 223 potatoes................. 222 radishes................. 223 rice................ 222 sarsaparilla.............. 223 sugar................ 217 tapioca............... 223 tobacco................. 219 vanilla................. 223 yuca................ 223 Aguacate................ 226 Page Aguero y Betancourt, Diego and Gaspar................. 74 execution of.............. 95 Ahuacate.................... 226 Alameda de Paula, La...... 125 Alb6ar, Gen., Statue of..... 82 Plaza of.................. 82 Albisu Theater..........60, 70 Alcala, San Diego de, Church of.................. 110 Alcalde, meaning of......... 243 Aldama, Miguel de.......... 145 Aldermen.................... 242 Alhambra, The............... 68 Almacenes, meaning of...... 125 Alligator pear................ 226 Almendares River.......... 36 Park.................... 126 Alvarez, Senior............... 139 Am. Bapt. Cem. Assn........ 97 Am. Exch., Havana......... 163 Ancha del Norte........... 25 Animals.................... 204 cats, wild................. 204 cayman.................. 204 crocodile................. 204 deer..................... 204 dog, wild................. 204 domestic................. 204 horses................... 222 jutia............... 204 manati................... 204 maja.............. 204 pig................ 204 seacow.............. 204 Animas, Las, Hill of....22, 35 An6n................. 226 Antillano Club............. 119 305 306 INDEX. Page Appendix to Part I......... 180 Aqueduct of Ferd. VII....... 83 Vento................... 83 Vento, cost of........... 83 Ariguanabo, River of........ 128 Lake of................... 128 Armas, Plaza de............. 87 Area of Cuba................ 196 Arms, Coat of C. of Hav... 154 Army, Cuban, character of. 152 payment of............... 259 Arroyo Naranjo.............. 26 Arsenal, The..............23, 56 Artillery Barracks........... 57 Asiatic Cemetery.............. 98 Asphaltum................... 208 Assembly of province........ 238 powers................... 239 Associate members.......... 243 Asylums.................... 123 for Aged Men............ 123 Casa de Beneficia....... 123 Casa de Recojidas...... 123 Home for Aged Men and Women................ 123 Insane................... 123 Maternity................ 123 Orphan................... 123 St. Vincent of Paul.... 123 San Jos.................. 123 Society for Relief of Children............... 123 Atares, Bay of.............. 28 Castle of.................. 57 construction of........... 58 Hill of.................22, 28 Attorney (fiscal)............. 242 Auditor of Cuba.............. 262 Audiencias...............244, 258 jurisdiction of........244,.................253, 254, 256 provincial court......253, 256 de lo criminal.......244, 253 territorial............... 244 Mil. Gov. appt's, judges of..................... 254 Page Audiencias-Continued. judges, salary of, etc... 256 of Havana.............76, 255 of Havana, organization. 256 Automobile.................. 136 Avisador Commercial........ 144 Avocado..................... 226 A yti.......................... 216 Ayuntamiento, City Council 243 Balboa, Marquise of......... 154 Banana...................... 225 grove................... 40 Bango, Dr..................... 118 Bankers..................149, 150 Balcells, J................ 149 Bances, J. A............. 149 Getals, N................. 149 G. Lawton Childs & Co.. 149 Ruiz & Co............... 150 Sph. Bk. of Cuba....... 150 Upman & Co............. 150 Zaldo & Co............... 149 Bafios, meaning of.......... 100 Banyan tree.................. 217 the great.................. 40 Baptist Church............... 112 Bar Assn. of Havana........ 150 Barberla, meaning of........ 162 Barge office................... 125 Baria........................ 215 Barracks, Municipal Police. 77 Barrios, meaning of......... 240 Baseball grounds............ 126 Bates, Gen. John C......... 246 Bathing season............... 101 Baths........................ 100 Campos Elfseos.......... 100 Las Delicias.............. 100 La Revoluci6n........... 100 San Rafael............... 100 cost of................... 101 dimensions of............ 101 Batteries................... 54 BaterIa De La Reina.25, 54 Santa Clara.............. 55 INDE Page Bay of Atars................ 28 of Carenas................. 29 of Guasabacoa........... 28 of Havana................ 28 of Regla.................. 28 of Triscornia........... 27 Beans........................ 223 Beets........................ 223 Belascoain, Calzada de...... 24 Belen Church................ 110 Royal College............ 110 Bellamar, caves of.......... 128 caves of................. 203 Betancourt, Sefior Rodolf... 88 Birds, species of............. 204 Bishop, country residence of 126 Blockading fleet, pilot of the 12 Bliss, Col. Tasker H........ 261 Blue Peak................... 202 Bombablier, Sefior........... 71 Bomberos del Commercio... 151 Municipales............. 151 Boneyard, Colon Cem....... 97 Bookstores in Hav........... 173 Botanical Gardens........24, 90 Brazilian wood............... 217 Bread fruit................... 221 Bread....................166, 172 Brewery..................... 150 Brooke, Gen. John R., Mil. G ov........................ 247 Brooklyn, The................ 13 Bryson, Mr. Geo. Eugene. 144 Bull-ring.................... 131 Cabafia, La................... 20 burying ground at....48, 49 cost of.................... 45 "dead line" at.......48, 49 description of.........46, 47 dimensions of............ 46 dungeons of...........48, 49 dock...................... 48 inscription to martyrs.. 48 Laurel Ditch at.......... 49 stone staircase at........ 48 Caballeria, measure......... 218 sX, 307 Page Cabbage..................... 223 Cable to Key West......... 128 Cabrera, Avelino............. 79 Cabs in Havana............. 168 Cafetal, meaning of......... 220 Caimitillo.................... 214 Caimitos..................41, 167 Calixto, Lopez & Co........ 146 Calvario, Village of.......... 26 Camp Columbia.............. 40 Campo Marte..............24, 89 Campos Elfseos, baths...... 100 Cancer, Tropic of........... 18 Capeche wood................ 217 Cape Sable................... 10 Capital, foreign in Cuba.... 235 Capote, Domingo Mendez, rept. of..................... 248 Capote, Domingo Mendez, Secy. of State............ 282 Capt. General.............236, 237 summer res. of........24, 91 Carcel, the................... 70 meaning of............. 70 visit to.................71, 72 Cardenas & Jfcaro R. R. Co......................229-232 Carlos III, Paseo de........ 89 statue of................ 90 Carenas Bay................. 29 Carmelo, city of............. 27 Carnival, The................ 133 description of........136, 137 Carpenter, Gen. Geo. H..... 246 Carranza's fan store......... 85 Carridad del Cerro Club.. 119 Carts......................... 169 Casa Blanca, Village of..20, 27 territory of............... 27 Casaci6n and revision, meanling of....................... 252 Casa de Beneficia........... 123 Casanova, Sefior............. 143 Caserio, meaning of........ 27 Casino Espafiol.............. 216 description of.......... 135 308 INDEX. Page Castellanos, Capt.-Gen. Jimenez........................ 247 Castle of Atares............. 57 Principe............ 22 Catalan Club................. 120 Cathedral............... 103 description of.........103-107 erection of................ 108 full name of............ 103 Virgin of Loretto....... 105 Cattle raising................ 221 statistics of...........221-222 Cats, wild................... 204 Cauto, River of............ 203 Caves of Bellamar...... 128, 203 Cotilla................... 128 Cubitas.................. 202 Resolladero Ouacanaya.. 202 Cayguaran................... 214 Cayman..................... 204 Cedar.................. 212 Ceiba tree................208, 216 Celery.................... 223 Celestino, martyr............ 111 Cemetery.................... 93 American Baptist........ 97 Asiatic................... 98 Chinese.................. 98 Colon.................... 93 Drive to Colon.......... 88 of Espada................ 94 Census, 1899, citizenship, etc.......................... 199 of Cuba, 1899.........197, 198 of Cuba, order for taking.................... 265 of Cuba, Havana......186-189 school attendance........ 198 summary for island...... 197 Centen, value of......66, 97, 102 "Central," meaning of..... 218 Central Park...........23, 81, 82 Centro Asturiano............ 113 ball at.............. 115 description of.114, 115,117-119 membership of........... 117 Page Centro Asturiano-Continued. private hospital of..117, 118 Centro Cocinero Club....... 119 Artesanos Club........... 119 Dependientes............ 119 private hospital..... 119 Cerro, Hill of............... 22 City, etc., of..........27, 35 Calzada del.............. 126 Cervera's fleet................ 12 Chadwick, Capt............. 13 Charcoal vender............. 171 Chicharron.................. 216 Chico........................ 226 Children, Society for Relief of.......................... 123 China root................... 223 Chinese Cemetery........... 98 Chino, Playa de.............. 27 Chrome..................... 209 Christina Market............ 34 Churches, Alcala, San Diego de.......................... 110 Baptist................... 112 Belen.................... 110 Cathedral, the............ 103 Templete, El...........87, 108 Episcopal................ 112 Mercedes, Las........111, 134 Mission, Ch. of Christ.. 112 Methodist Chapel........ 112 San Francisco............ 113 Paula................... 125 Protestant of Havana... 111 San Felipe................ 11 Santa Catalina........... 111 Santa Clara.............. 111 Santo Angel.............. 102 Santo Domingo........... 111 Cienaga, La...............27, 36 Cigar factories of Havana.. 145 La Corona................ 145 La Escepcin............ 147 Calixto Lopez & Co.... 146 Suarez, Murias & Co... 147 statistics of........... 146, 147 INDEX. 309 Page Cisneros, Evangelina........ 114 Citron................. 227 Clays................. 208 Climate.................. 204 Clubs, Havana............... 116 Antillano, The........... 119 Carridad del Cerro....... 119 Casino Espafiol.......... 116 Catalan, The............. 120 Centro Asturiano........ 113 description of.....117-119 Cocinero................. 119 Centro de Artesanos..... 119 Dependientes............ 119 Divina Carridad.......... 119 German, The............. 119 Havana Yacht.............119 San Carlos................ 119 Spanish Casino.......... 135 Sociedad del Vedado..... 119 Sport, The................ 119 Union, The............... 116 Crank, Asst. Engr. Merrim ac........................ 16 Crescent City................ 179 Crittenden, Col. W. S....... 59 Crocodile.................... 204 Coal.................. 207 Cock-fighting............... 130 Cocoanut............... 225 Coffee...............220, 221 Cojimar River............ 128 village.................. 128 Collazo, Gen. Enrique...... 143 Colon Cem., boneyard..... 97 entrance to............... 93 drive to................... 88 Park..................24, 89 Market................... 34 Colonia, meaning of......... 218 Columbus, Christopher, death of.................... 105 Inscription to.......106, 107 Memorial Chapel......... 108 Monument............. 107 remains taken to Spain. 107 Page Columbus, Christopher - Continued. removal of remains to Havana............105, 106 Commercio, El, newspaper.. 144 Compafiia Translant. Espahola........................ 184 Vapores, Herrera Line.. 184 Compostella, Bishop of Diego Avelino de.......... 110 Copper....................... 206 Conant, Mr. Ernest Lee.... 143 Concessionaire, meaning of. 82 Concha Station............... 35 Conclusion...............290-303 Conde, meaning of........... 153 Consonants, sounds of....... 192 Consumption................ 206 Constancia plantation....... 218 Contencioso Administrativo. 251 Constitution, Canvassers, Prov. Bd. of................ 277 character of, for Cuba.. 295 convention to frame..... 270 delegates to frame...... 291 list of delegates to...... 278 supervision of by U. S.........................294, 295 Convent, Jesuit.............. 110 Santo Domingo........... 86 Convention, candidates to, nomination of.............. 274 delegates to.............. 271 election of delegates to.. 271 Elect. Bds................ 275 Mil...................... 245 minority represent....... 277 criticism of language in order calling............. 297 reason for suchlanguage 297 order calling for......... 270 Copal.........................223 Coronado, Sefior Manuel M.. 143 Corn......................... 222 Cotilla, Cave of............. 128 Cotton....................... 223 3Io INDEX. Page Council of Authorities, Composition of.................. 237 Administration.......... 236 City, composition of.... 240 City, powers of......... 285 City, number of councilors..................... 240 Courts of First Instance.243, 258 and Second Instance. 97 Municipal, jurisdiction of..................243,258-9 Provincial............... 253 Supreme..............76, 244 appeals to from Auds 253 creation of........... 250 organization of....249-253 Audiencias......244, 253-258 crim. branch of...... 253 of Havana prov...... 76 juris. of........... 256 sees. of........... 255 jurisdiction of....253, 256 Military Governor appts. judges of.... 254 audiencias, salary of judges, etc.............. 256 territorial........... 253 contencioso administrativo of........... 118 Covadonga, La............... 118 Country Gentleman, home of........................ 158 Courtship, Cuban............ 159 Cuba, area of in sq. miles.. 196 area of in acres......... 211 acres uncultivated....... 217 census of................ 265 census of, 1899..........197-8 convention to frame constitution for............ 270 control of by U. S....... 301 control of, Americans desirous of............. 301 division of................ 247 forests, no. acres of.... 211 life in.................... 152 Page Cuba-Continued. lowlands of............... 203 people of, classes....... 201 population of............. 196 prostration of, after war 195 railroads of............... 228 table of railroads of..229-234 recuperation of.......... 195 representation of in Spanish Cortes......... 244 its resources, etc........ 195 rivers of................ 204 southern coast........... 203 acres of timber lands belonging to state........ 211 prosperity of............. 202 Immigrant, The.......... 68 Theater.................. 68 Cuban Cent. Ry. Co....230, 232 Financier and Havana Advertiser............. 144 National Party.......... 287 Elec. Co., St. Ry.125, 127, 182 Cubano, El, newspaper.... 144 Cubans, cruelty of toward animals................ 170 feelings of toward Americans................ 179 hospitality of............ 155 Cubitas, caves of............ 202 seat of Cuban revolutionary government... 202 Cucumber.................. 223 Cuen......................... 215 Cuia......................... 214 Custard apple................ 226 Custom house................ 113 Customs..................... 261 Customs, Col. Tasker H. Bliss, collector of...... 261 statistics............... 262 Davis, Gen. Geo. W....... 46 Dead-cart................... 57 Decker, Karl............... 114 D eer.......................... 204 De Gobierno............ 256 INDEX. 31I Page Delegates to Convention.... 272 number of for each province................... 272 qualification of voters for..................... 272 Delicias, Las................. 126 baths..................... 108 De lo criminal, meaning of..........................244, 253 Departments, civil........... 245 of Agriculture........... 248 Finance.................. 248 Justice, etc............... 248 Posts.................... 260 State..................... 248 M ilitary................. 248 of Center............. 249 of East............... 249 of City of Havana abolished.......... 267 of West............. 248 Deputies, House of, at Madrid....................... 244 House of, Cubans in.... 244 Desvernine, Sefior Pablo, Secy., etc................... 248 Divina Carridad, club of... 119 Diario de La Marina, newspaper...................... 142 Diarrhcea................... 206 Diaz, Dr..................... 112 Discusi6n, La newspaper... 143 Diseases..................... 206 consumption............ 206 diarrhcea................. 206 dysentery............... 206 intermittent fever....... 206 leprosy................... 206 lock-jaw................. 206 malarial fever............ 206 yellow fever.............. 206 District, collection.......... 261 election.................. 77 electoral..............240-241 judicial of Havana...... 77 organization of........... 261 Page Dock, Herrera............... 125 Dogs, wild.................... 204 Drinks, Cuban............... 173 Drinking habits of Cubans.. 173 Drives about Havana, etc.. 88 to Colon Cemetery...... 88 along shore of Gulf..100-103 Drug stores in Havana...... 172 Dry season................... 204 Dulces, Conde de Pozos.... 126 Duties, customs.............. 261 Dysentery................... 206 Earthquakes................. 206 Ebony....................... 213 Economical Society.......... 148 Education, Board of........ 262 City of Havana........... 263 Election, Municipal........ 269 Voters, Qualification of. 269 Emilio Terry, Concessionary 233 Ensenada, meaning of...... 28 Episcopal Chapel............ 112 Ermita Monserrate, hill of. 35 Escepci6n, La................ 147 Espada, Cemetery of........ 94 Estrella, Cove of............ 13 Executioner, Official......... 79 Exports...................... 224 Express Companies.......... 150 Adams Ex. Co........... 150 Pan-American Ex. Co... 150 Southern Ex. Co......... 150 Wells-Fargo Ex. Co...... 150 Extramuros................. 23 Fan Store, Carranza's...... 85 Fare, Coach Tariff.......... 25 Farm, Truck................. 171 Feluccas, description of..... 43 Fencing..................... 159 Ferdinand VII, Statue of.. 87 Fernandina, Countess of.. 153 Ferrocarriles, meaning of.. 180 Ferrocarril Urbana de la Habana, lines of........... 181 Ferryboats of United Railways of Havana........... 125 312 INDEX. Page Fesser Station............... 125 Fevers....................... 205 Intermittent............. 205 Malarial................. 205 Yellow.................. 205 Figaro, El.................... 143 Fire Department of Havana 151 branches of.............. 155 Firemen's Monument........ 95 Fiscal, meaning of......250, 256 Fish, flying................. 178 Fish, varieties of........... 204 Fisher, Dr. Chas. E......... 143 Florida East Coast Steamship Co..................10, 183 Florida Hotel, The.......... 140 Keys..................... 9 Fondas, meaning of......... 172 Foraker Resolution or Amendment............... 280 Foraker Amendment, Mining Concessions....... 212 Fortifications of Havana.... 53 Arsenal................ 56 Artillery Barracks...... 57 Atares, Castle of........ 57 Baterfa de la Reina..... 54 Battery of 12 Apostles. 45 Castillo de la Fuerza.... 53 Cabafia, La, dimensions of...................... 46 burying ground...48, 49 cost of................ 45 description of.....46, 47 dock of.............. 48 dead line at.......... 48 La Pastora.......... 44 Mouth of Chorrera River 55 Prfncipi Camp........... 56 Prlncipi Castle........... 56 Old sea walls............ 53 Redans 1 and 2.......... 51 Redans 3A, 3B-4......... 55 San Diego.............. 51 San Nazario.............. 56 Page Fortifications of Havana - Continued. San Salvador de la Punta.................. 54 Santa Clara battery..... 55 Velazo battery........... 50 Francia, La, Hotel.......... 140 Frost....................... 205 Fruits....................224-229 Alligator Pear........... 226 Andn..................... 226 Aguacate................ 226 Banana.................. 225 Bread Fruit.............. 227 Caimito.................. 167 Citron................... 227 Cocoanut................ 225 Custard Apple........... 226 Grapes................... 225 Guanabana.............. 227 Guava.................... 227 Guayaba................. 227 Lemons................. 228 Limes.................... 228 Mamey...............167, 226 Mango...............167, 226 Melons................... 225 Oranges.................. 227 Peaches.................. 228 Pears.................... 228 Pineapples............... 225 Plums................... 228 Rose Apple............... 226 Star Apple.............. 226 Strawberries............. 225 Tamarind................ 227 Zapotilla................. 226 Frye, Alexis E., Superintendent of Schools............ 265 Fosos Municipales........... 81 Fuel......................... 171 Fuente, Manuel.............. 43 Fuerza, Castillo de la....... 53 Funerals, Cuban............. 96 Fustic....................... 217 Gamoneda................... 76 INDEX. 313, Page Garcia, Gen'l, Tomb of..... 94 Gardens, Botanical........24, 90 Los Molinos.............. 24 Garrote, The................ 69 description of............ 72 march to the............. 74 method of execution.... 73 former place of execution.................... 76 at Omaha Exposition.... 78 Gas Works................... 150 Gener, Seiior Jos........... 147 Gentleman, A Cuban....... 158 German Club................. 119 Gibara to Holguin, R. R. Co......................... 231 Ginebrahacha................ 214 Ginger.................... 223 Goddesses, The five.......... 90 Goicuria, Gen. Domingo, Execution of............... 75 Gold......................... 207 Gomez, Gen. Maximo....90, 259 Sefior Juan Gualberto.. 143 Gonzalez, Castanon.......... 94 Government, dual........281, 282 dual, synopsis of powers, civil and military...................... 283-287 Governor's Palace............ 86 Governor-General, powers of.................... 236, 237 of Provinces............. 237 powers and duties of.........238, 239, 243 Govin, Sefiors................ 142 Grapes....................... 225 3ranadillo.................. 215 Gluanaba Ice-Cream........ 166 Guanabacoa................ 127 Population of........... 127 Calzada of................ 26 Guasabacoa, Bay of.......... 28 Guanabana................. 227 Guantdnamo R. R. Co...... 231 Guayaba..................... 227 Page Guava.................... 227 Guige........................ 223 Gulf of Mexico............... 22 Gulf Shore, drive along..100, 103 Stream................... 9 transparency of...... 10 width of.............. 10 velocity of current.. 10 Guyol, Mr. E. W............ 143 Guyacan..................... 214 Habana Bay R. R. Co...... 180 Habana Province, minerals of.........................206-9 Hacendados, almacenes..... 125 Hacks in Havana, number of......................... 168 H agiiey...................... 216 Harbor of Santiago.......... 13 of Havana.............18, 28 Hats, Panama, price of.... 172 Havana, Bay of.............. 28 boundaries of............ 22 census of..............186-189 Conservatory of Music of 149 departure from........... 177 distances, table of....... 185 drug stores of............ 172 Econom. Society of..... 148 Elect. districts of........ 77 fire department of....... 151 founding of............... 109 general plan of.......... 22 hills about............... 203 judicial district of....... 77 public library of......... 148 life in..................... 154 legal limits of........... 25 magazines of............. 125 first mass in............. 108 newspapers of............ 142 police station of......... 77 population of in 1519, 1592..................... 102 province of............... 203 lakes................. 203 rainfall in............... 133 3I4 INDEX. Page Havana-Continued. River cf...............88, 126 public schools of......... 149 private schools of....... 149 Technical School of Arts, etc............... 149 School of Painting, etc.. 148 society in................. 152 temperature............. 133 mean av.............. 205 University of.........86, 148 first view of............ 18 old walls of...........23, 114 wards of.................. 77 water supply............. 83 cost of water supply.... 83 Commercial Co........... 146 Electric Ry. Co.......... 182 Post, The................. 143 Yacht Club............... 119 Health certificates........... 138 Health, public.............. 283 Henry Clay & Bock & Co., (Ltd.)..................... 146 Herrera docks................ 125 lines..................... 184 Quinta de Leonor....... 117 Hills of Havana.............. 22 of Atares............... 28 of Cerro.................. 22 of Ermita Monserrate.35, 120 of Jesuits................. 35 of Jesis del Monte...... 28 of Las Animas........22, 35 of Managua Paps........ 128 of Mazo, or Key Hill... 27 of Principe............22, 28 of San Diego..........28, 51 Hobson, Lieut................ 13 first attempt to enter harbor.............. 14 Home for Aged Men and Women.................. 123 Honey...................... 223 H orses....................... 222 Hospitals and Asylums...... 121 Page Hospitals and Asylums-Continued. of Covadonga............. 118 Quint. de Leonor Herrera......... 117 Integridad............... 92 Lepers'.......... 100, 121 Militar.................. 122 Military...............57, 122 Purissima Concepcion... 119 Reina Mercedes.......... 121 of San Lazaro............ 121 Hotels of Havana............ 138 dining room of Pasaje.. 165 food and cooking in.... 167 life in..................... 162 rates per day............ 140 typical room of........... 163 Francia, La.............. 140 Florida................... 140 Inglaterra............... 139 Isla de Cuba............. 140 Louvre................... 140 Mascotte................. 140 Pasaje................... 138 Perla de Cuba........... 140 Roma.................... 140 Telegrafo................ 139 Thrower................. 140 Trotcha.................. 79 U. S....................... 140 Washington............. 140 Tampa Bay............... 179 Humidity, atmospheric...... 205 Hurricanes.................. 206 Hurtado, Seflor Benj., interpreter...............78, 139 Husillo, village of............ 83 Ice Plants.................... 150 Immaculate Conception, statue of.................... 104 Imports..................223, 224 Independence, Proclamation of.......................... 130 Day, Cuban.............. 130 INDEX. 3I5 Page Indiana, Battleship........ 12 Indian Park.................. 88 Indian Statue, description of......................... 88 India, Parque de la........ 24 Infanta, Calzade de la....... 24 Ingenio, meaning of........ 218 Inglaterra, The.............. 139 Insane Asylum............... 123 Institutions Charitable, Government of................. 283 Integridad, La............... 92 Intermittent Fever.......... 205 Intervention of United States...................... 294 of United States, ground of....................... 294 Intramuros.................. 23 Interpreters................. 19 Investments................. 234 Isabella LaCat6ica, Parque de la.....................23, 88 Isabella II, Statue of........ 81 Isla de Cuba, La, Hotel... 140 Iron.......................... 207 Jesuit Convent............... 110 Jesuits, Hill of the......... 35 Jesis Del Monte, Hill...... 28 Jesis Del Monte, City of.. 27 Jigui......................... 214 Journal, New York......... 114 Judicial Districts, number of.......................... 240 system of................ 243 Jfcaro....................... 217 Jutia........................ 204 Keiffer, Maj.-Gen. J. Warren......................... 247 Key West, Health inspection at......................... 178 Kilometer................229, 233 La Corona Cigar Factory.. 145 Ladd, Maj. E. F., auditor.. 262 Lady, The Cuban........... 155 Habits of.............156, 157 Lakes, Ariguanabo.......... 128 Page Lanuza, Jose Antonio, Sec'y Department of Justice..... 248 La Pastora Battery.......... 44 La Prueba R. R. Co........ 230 Lara Theater................. 68 Lead......................... 207 Lee, Gen. Fitzhugh......246, 247 Headquarters............ 38 Mil. Gov. Dept. of West. 249 Lemons..................... 228 Lepers' Hospital.........100, 121 Leprosy..................... 206 facts about............... 122 Lettuce...................... 223 Library, Public.............. 148 Licorice...................... 223 Lighthouse, O'Donnell...... 50 Lignum Vite.................. 213 Life in Havana and Cuba.. 152 Lim e......................... 209 Lim es....................... 228 Lockjaw..................... 206 Lodestone................... 209 Lomas, meaning of.......22, 27 Loma de Atares.............. 28 de Mazo................. 27 Lopez, Narciso............. 44 garroted................. 74 Loretta, legend of........... 105 Chapel of Virgin of.... 105 Louvre, The.................. 140 Lucha, La.................... 142 Lucido, Martyr.............. 111 Ludlow, Maj.-Gen. Wm.247, 268 Mil. Gov. Dept. of Havana City............... 249 Luyan6, Calzada de......... 26 Luz, Plaza de............... 125 Pier..................... 125 M aboa....................... 216 MacDonnell, Rev. Geo. N.. 112 Machina, meaning of........ 52 MacPherson, Rev. Lowell C. 112 Macurije..................... 216 Magazines, Hacendados..... 125 Magazines, San Jos......... 125 3I6 INDEX. Page Magnetite.................. 209 Maine, Wreck of......19, 20, 177 victims, burial of....... 93 Mahogany................... 212 Majagua..................... 214 Maja, the..................... 204 Malarial Fever............... 205 Mamey............ 41, 167, 226 Mamposteria, meaning of... 55 Mass, First................ 108 Managua Paps.............. 128 Manati, the........... 204 Manganese................... 208 Mango..........41, 167, 217, 226 Marafi6n.................. 214 M arble...................... 208 Marianao.................... 35 Banyan Tree............. 40 Beauty of................ 39 Bridge and Embankment 37 La Playa de.........37, 127 R. R. Co.............181, 231 Market, The.................. 30 description of............ 32 Colon.................... 34 Christina................ 34 Plaza Vapor...............34 del Plaza Vieja........... 34 Tacon.................... 34 Marriages, only civil valid. 266 Marti Theatre................ 68 Martin Perez River.......... 26 Mascotte Hotel............... 140 Maso, Bartolome............. 130 Matanzas, Bay of............ 203 City................. 128, 203 Province, minerals of......................206, 209 Pan de.................... 203 Population of............. 128 Province of............... 203 R. R. Co.............230, 232 Maternity Asylum........... 123 M ayors....................... 241 Deputy...............240, 241 Duties of................. 242 Page Mayors-Continued. Powers of................ 242 Of wards.................. 242 Mazoera, meaning of........ 123 McCullagh, John............. 150 McKibben, Gen. C., Military Governor.................. 245 Meals, Cuban................ 165 Mechener, Capt. Frank W... 58 Melons....................... 225 Melon Zapote................ 226 Men, Aged, Asylum for.... 123 Mercados, meaning of....... 32 Mercedes, Las, Church..... 111 description of.........134, 135 Merrimac, plan of sinking.. 13 sinking of................ 16 Methodist Chapel........... 112 M iam i.......................9, 10 Militar Hospital............. 122 Paseo.................... 24 Military Governor, powers of......................... 243 Government, organization of................. 247 Occupation of Cuba, beginning of..........195, 246 Condition of Island beginning of....... 246 by United States.... 245 Military Hospital........... 122 Milliken, Jos................ 164 Milkman..................... 170 Minerals.................... 206 Asphaltum................ 208 Bituminous Oil......... 208 Chrome................. 209 Clays.................... 208 Coal...................... 207 Copper................... 206 Gold...................... 207 Iron..................... 207 Lead..................... 207 Lodestone............... 209 Lime..................... 209 Magnetite.............. 209 INDEX. 317 Page Minerals-Continued. Manganese.............. 208 Marble................... 208 Nickel................... 208 Ochre................... 209 Petroleum............... 208 Quicksilver.............. 208 Rock crystal............ 209 Salt...................... 2CS Sand, moulding........ 209 Silver................... 207 Slate..................... 209 Sulphur.................. 208 Talc...................... 209 Mines, Foraker Amendment....................... 212 Mining Law of Cuba....209, 211 Permits.................. 211 Surface Imposts......... 211 Minerals, classification of under Spanish law....209, 210 Mineral wealth of Cuba.... 209 Mir, Narciso Valdez......... 50 Mission Church of Christ.. 112 Money, Spanish, value of... 31 Monkey's dinner bell....... 217 Monserrate, Hill of.......... 120 Monte, Calzade del.......24, 126 Montoro, Sefior............. 142 Monument, Cabafia wall.... 44 Columbus................ 107 Firemen's............... 95 Neptune................. 102 Students'................ 94 Morgan Line S. S. Co...... 183 Morgue, The................ 102 Morro Castle...........20, 43, 49 Called 3 Kings.......... 50 Captured by English.... 50 Construction of......... 50 First view of............ 18 Light House at.......... 50 Redans 1 and 2.......... 51 Secret Passage........45, 51 Sharks' nest.............. 49 Signal Service station.. 50 21 Page Morro Castle-Continued. Velazo Battery.......... 50 Mortera, Count of........... 153 Moulton, Col. Geo. M........ 150 Mountains...............202, 203 Blue Peak............... 202 Pan de Matanzas........ 203 Pico del Potrillo........ 202 San Juan Group........ 202 Sierra de Bejucal........ 203 Sierra Guanabacoa...... 203 Sierra Maestre........... 202 Sierra San Francisco de Janvier............... 203 Sierra de San Martin... 203 Sierra Sibarimar........ 203 Muelle Machina, meaning of 125 Mules........................ 222 Mule Team.................. 41 Municipal Board............ 240 Composition of...... 243 Council.................. 240 Secy. of.............. 242 Court............... 243, 258 Jurisdiction of....... 259 District, definition of... 239 Barrios............. 240 Deputy Mayors...... 241 Electoral district.... 241 Number of........... 239 Sub districts......... 240 Number of........ 241 Wards............... 240 Junta................... 243 Munson, Pilot Chas. B...... 10 Munson and the Merrimac. 15 Line..................... 183 Music, Conservatory of...... 149 Mustard..................... 223 Nacidn, La.................. 143 Narango.................... 217 Necrocomio, meaning of.... 102 Negroes, social status of.... 114 Neptune, Monument to..... 102 Newspapers of Havana..142, 144 Advisador Commercial.. 144 318 INDEX. Page Newspapers of Havana - Continued. El Commercio........... 144 Cuba Immigrant, The.. 144 Cuban Financier and Havana Adv........... 144 Cubana, El............... 144 Diario de la Marina.... 142 Discusi6n La............. 143 Figaro, El............... 143 Havana Post............ 143 Lucha, La................ 142 Naci6n, La.............. 143 Nuevo Pais, El.......... 142 Number of............... 142 Patria, La................ 144 Union Espafiola......... 144 New York, The.............. 13 Nogal........................ 214 North American Trust Co.. 149 Notion vender............... 171 Nickel....................... 208 Nuevitas to Pto. Principi R. R. Co....................... 229 Nuevo Pais, El.............. 142 Oak........................ 214 Obispo St..................23, 81 description of........... 84 Ocampo, Sebastian.......... 109 Ochre................... 209 Ocuje........................ 215 O'Donnell Light House..... 50 O'Farril, Calle.............. 114 Officios St.................... 125 Oil, bituminous.............. 208 Omnibuses.................. 168 Onions...................... 223 Opera, The Havana.......... 155 Oranges.................... 227 Orden Pfblico............... 151 O'Reilly St................... 23 Marquise of.............. 154 Orosco Mateo................ 94 Orphan Asylum.............. 123 Oxen, Method of Yoking.... 170 Ox Team...................... 41 Page Palace, Governor's.......... 86 Palatino Calzada De........ 126 Quinta de................ 126 Palm......................... 213 use of..................... 213 Royal.................... 40 Variety of................ 213 Cabbage................. 213 Cocoanut................ 213 Guano de Cana.......... 213 Guano................... 213 Royal.................... 213 Sago..................... 213 Yarey.................... 213 Parks, Alameda de Paula.. 123 Albear.................. 82 Almendares.............. 126 Botanical Gardens....... 90 Campo de Marte........ 89 Campo Marte............ 24 Central...............23, 81 Colon.................24, 89 Cortina de Valdes....... 126 Plaza De Armas......... 87 Indian................24, 88 Isabel la Catolica....23, 88 Plaza de Luz............. 125 San Juan de Dios........ 125 Trillo.................... 126 Pasaje Hotel................ 138 meaning of.............. 162 origin of name.......... 138 Paseo, meaning o'....... 24 De Carlos III............ 89 De Paula................ 125 De Tacon................. 89 Passage, Secret at Morro.. 45 Passports.................... 19 Patria, La................... 144 Paula Church............... 125 Payret Theater.............. 67 Peaches...................... 228 Peanuts..................... 223 Pears........................ 228 People, Character of.....173, 174 Cuban, The..........173, 174 INDEX. Page JPeople-Continued. capacity for self-government.........291, 293 of Cuba, classes of..... 201 Cuban, opinions as to capacity for self-government...........291, 293 recuperative powers of. 195 self-control of.......... 293 sober, etc................ 292 Peninsular & Occidental S. S. Co.................... 183 Pepper...................... 223 Perla de Cuba, La, Hotel.. 140 Pertenencia, meaning of.... 211 Peseta, value of.............. 25 Petroleum.................. 208 Piehardo, Sefior Manuel.... 143 Pico del Potrillo, El........ 202 Pigs, wild................... 204 Pinar del Rfo, caves of.... 203 City of.................. 129 Province of.............. 203 Minerals of.......206, 209 Pineapple..................... 225 Grove.................... 40 Pino de Tea.................. 214 Plant System................ 187 Playa, meaning of.......... 100 Playa de Marianao.......... 37 Plaza Vapor Market......... 34 Vieja Market............ 34 Ploclamacion, Marques..... 154 Plow, Cuban................ 171 Plums....................... 228 Poceta, meaning of.......... 101 Policeman, Cuban.......... 60 Police, Government of...... 284 Force of Havana........ 150 Organization of...... 150 Station................... 77 Political Parties............ 287 Cuban National......... 287 Democratic, The Union.. 288 Republican, The......... 287 Page Population of Cuba.......... 196 Havana, 1519, 1592....... 109 Number capable of sustaining.............224, 235 Port Tampa, custom duties at........................ 178 Porter, Robert P., Special Commissioner............. 259 Posts, Department of....... 260 Potatoes..................... 222 Poultry seller............. 171 Powell, Cadet............... 15 Prado, The............. 23 description of..........136 length of........... 24 Presido, The................ 70 meaning of........... 70 Primera Instancia, courts of 258 meaning of.............. 258 Prince Edward, The......... 9 Principe, Alfonso Calzada del......................... 24 Camp....... 6... 56 Castle.................22, 56 secret passage...... 56 Hill...................... 28 Prison for abandoned women..................... 113 Casa de Recojidas...... 113 interpreter.............. 70 the Royal................ 70 Procuradores S i n d i c o s, meaning of................. 242 Protestant Church.......... 111 Protocol..................... 245 Provincial Deputation abolished....................... 239 Powers of............238, 239 Puentes Grandes............ 27 Bridge................... 36 Puerte Principi, Province of 202 Minerals of.........206, 209 Punta, erection of........... 54 Punta, La................... 18 San Salvador, de la..... 54 Purlssima Concepcion...... 119 320 INDEX. Page Quanteras, meaning of..... 100 Queen's Battery............ 25 Quemados................... 41 Quicksilver.................. 208 Quinta del Obispo 6 Pefialver........................ 126 Quinta Molinos...........24, 90 de Palatino. Radishes.................... 223 Railroads............180, 228-234 of Cuba............ 228 table of...............229-234 total number of miles.. 234 summary................ 233 cars...................... 34 Habana Bay R. R. Co.. 180 Cardenas & Jucaro R. R. Co..................229, 232 Cuba Central Ry. Co.230, 232 Emilio Terry, concessionary................ 233 Gibora to Holguin R. R. Co................. 231 Guantdnamo........... 231 La Prueba R. R. Co..... 230 Marianao R. R. Co....181-231 Matanzas R. R. Co..230, 232 Nuevitas to Pto. Principe R. R. Co.......... 229 Santiago de Cuba........ 231 Tunas A Sanctus Spiritus R. R. Co.......... 231 Urbana de la Habana... 231 United Rys. of Habana..................... 229, 232 Western Ry. of Habana......................181, 232 Railroad depots. Concha Station........... 35 Fesser Station.......... 125 Railway, Cuban Electric.... 127 I-ainfall in Cuba............ 205 Havana.................. 133 Rainy Season................ 204 days in a month........ 205 Page Rathbone, Estes G., Director of Posts.................... 260 Recojidas, Casa de......113, 123 Recourses, meaning of...... 252 Redans, 1 and 2.............. 51 3A, 3B and 4.............55 Red Telefonica.............. 150 Regla, Bay of................ 28 City of................20, 27 population of............ 127 sugar storehouses at.... 127 Reina, Baterfa de la......25, 54 Calle de la................ 24 Calzada de la............. 89 Mercedes Hospital...... 121 Republican Party........... 287 Residences in Havana....... 160 Resources of Cuba.......... 195 Restaurants of Havana..141, 172 Restos, meaning of.......... 177 Revoluci6n, La, bath........ 100 Res6lladeros Guacanaya cave..................... 202 Ricardo, Sr. del Monte. Rice........................ 222 Rivero, Sr. San Nicolas... 142 River Almendares........... 36 Ariguanabo.............. 128 Cauto..................203 of Havana............28, 126 San Antonio............ 128 Rivers of Cuba.............. 204 River Martin Perez......... 26 Rock crystal................ 209 Roma Hotel................. 140 Romero brothers, execution of........................ 76 Roseapple................... 226 Rosewood................... 217 Ruiz, Valentine............ 78 Sabaretti, Bishop of Havana 109 Sabicu....................... 215 Sabina....................... 215 Salt.......................... 208 Sampson, Admiral........13, 12 San Antonio de los Bafios.. 128 IND Page San Antonio River.......... 128 Sand box tree.............. 217 Sand, moulding............. 209 San Carlos Club............ 119 Seminario de............. 103 San Diego, Fort.............. 51 H ill...................28, 51 San Francisco, Monastery of 113 Felipe Church........... 11 Sanguilly, Gen.............. 143 San Jose Almacenes....... 125 Asilo de............. 123 Juan group.............. 202 de Dios Park......... 125 Lazaro Beach......... 135 Calzada de........... 25 Hospital............ 121 Tower................ 55 San Miguel, Sefior Antonio. 142 San Nazario................. 56 Rafael Baths............ 100 Santa Catalina Church...... 111 Clara Battery........... 55 Santa Clara Church......... 111 Province of.............. 202 lakes of.............. 202 minerals.........206, 209 Santa Rita mineral baths.. 127 Santiago Harbor............ 13 de Cuba, Province of... 202 minerals of.....206-209 R. R. Co............. 231 Santo Angel Church......... 102 Domingo Convent....... 86 Church.............. 111 Sarsaparilla................. 223 Schley, Commodore........ 13 School System.............. 262 Board of Education. 262 Complete................ 263 Course of study.......... 264 Elementary..........262, 264 Incomplete............. 263 Military................. 57 Painting................ 148 Public................... 149 EX. 321 Page School System-Continued. organization of..... 263 statistics............. 149 Private.................. 149 Sculpture............... 148 Superior.............. 262 Superintendent.......... 265 Sea-cow..................... 204 Seasons, two.............. 204 Sea wall, old............ 53 Self-government capacity of Cubans for..............291, 293 Opinions as to........291, 293 Sefiorita................ 155 Seminario de San Carlos.... 103 Shafter, Gen. Wi........... 245 Sharks in Harbor............ 43 Sidewalks, width of......... 25 Sierra de Bejucal........... 203 San Martin.............. 203 Guanabacoa............ 203 Maestre................. 202 San Francisco de Janvier.................... 203 Sibarimar.............. 203 Silver........................ 207 Slate......................... 209 Small, "Sam," interview w ith....................... 69 Snakes....................... 204 Soil, color' of............ 40 Society in Capital........... 152 Sociedad del Vedado Club.. 119 Society, Relief of Children.. 123 Sombrero Key.............. 9 Light House............. 9 South Coast Line............ 183 Spain, Relinquishment of Sovereignty............... 247 Spaniards against annexation........................ 301 reasons for.......... 302 feelings toward Americans................... 176 Registration of under Treaty of Paris........ 268 322 INDEX. Page Spanish-American Co........ 150 Spanish, pronunciation of............................190-195 Consonants.......... 192 Vowels.............. 191 Syllables............. 191 Laurel................... 217 'Spbrt Club, The............. 119 Springs, Vento.............. 83 Star Apple.................. 226 Statistics, Cigar Factories...........................146, 147 Station, Fesser R. R........ 125 Statues. Albear, Gen..........;. 82 Carlos III.............. 90 Ferdinand VII........... 87 Five Goddesses......... 90 Indian................... 80 Immaculate Concepcidn. 104 Steamship Co. Compania Vapores....... 184 Transatlantic Espafiola................. 184 Florida East Coast....10, 183 Herrera Line........... 184 Morgan Line............ 183 Munson Line........... 183 Peninsular & Occidental 183 Plant System............ 183 South Coast Line........ 183 Southern Pacific....... 183 Ward................... 182 Storm, Tropical............ 132 Story of Pilot Munson...... 12 Strawberries................ 225 Streets, width of............. 25 Scenes................... 170 Ancha Del Norte, Calzada.................... 25 Belascoain, Calzade de.. 24 Carlos III. Paseo de..24, 89 Cerro, Calzada del....... 126 Guanabacoa, Calzada de 26 Infanta, Calzade de la.. 24 Luyan6, Calzada de..... 26 Page Streets-Continued. Militar, Paseo........ 24 Monte, Calzada del...24, 126 Obispo..............23, 81, 84 O'Farril, Calle......... 114 Officios.................. 125 O'Reilly................. 23 Palatina, Calzada de.... 126 Paula, Paseo de......... 125 Prado, The...........23, 136 Principi Alfonso......... 24 Reina, Calzada de....... 89 Calle de la........... 24 San Lazaro, Calzada de 25 Tacon, Paseo de.....24, 89 Teniente, Rey.......... 23 Cars................... 168 Railways of Havana.... 181 Cuban Elec. Ry Co...................125, 182 Ferrocarril Urbana de la Habana...... 181 Havana Electric.... 182 Miles in Havana.... 182 Students, Execution of..... 94 Monument............... 94 St. Vincent of Paul Asylum 123 Suarez Murias & Co........ 147 Sugar........................ 217 Beet..................... 218 Imports to U. S........ 219 Value of 1898-99......... 219 Yield of 1898-99.......... 219 Sulphur..................... 208 Surnames, Cuban........... 160 Syllables, formation of...... 191 Syndicate, the English...... 145 Tacon market............... 34 Paseo de.............24, 89 Theater.................. 65 cost of.............. 65 dimensions of....... 65 property of.......... 66 seating capacity of.. 66 Talc......................... 209 Tamarind.................. 227 INDEX. 323 Page Tandas, meaning of......... 63 Tapioca..................... 223 Tarpon, The................. 19 Taylor, Capt. H. C........ 12 Teachers..................... 264 wages of................ 264 Team, mule, ox.............. 169 Teatro, meaning of......... 61 Technical School of Arts, etc......................... 149 Telegrafo Hotel............ 139 Telephone system.......... 150 Temperature in Havana.... 133 mean annual............ 205 Templete, El............87, 108 erection of.............. 109 Teniente Rey, street......... 23 Territory surrendered to Gen. Shafter.............. 245 Texas, The.................. 16 Theater, Albisu..........60, 67 Alhambra............... 68 Cuba..................... 68 Lara.............. 68 Marti.................... 68 Payret.............. 67 Tacon................... 65 one-act.............. 64 Thrower, Hotel............. 140 Tide, height of............ 101 Timber...................211-318 acana.............. 213 agraceje................. 217 agracejo................. 217 aceitillo................. 215 ayti...................... 216 banyan tree............ 217 baria..................... 215 brazilian wood.......... 217 capeche wood.......... 217 caimitillo............... 214 cayguaran............... 214 cedar.................... 212 ceiba..................... 216 chicharron.............. 216 cuen................ 215 Page Timber-Continued. cuia...................... 214 ebony.................... 213 fustic.................... 217 granadillo............... 215 ginebrachacha.......... 214 guyacan................. 214 hagiiey.................. 216 jigui..................... 214 jicano................... 217 lignum vitae.......... 213 maboa................... 216 macurije........... 216 mahogany............... 212 majagua................. 214 mango................... 217 marafin................ 214 narango................. 217 nogal.................... 214 oak...................... 214 ocuje..................... 215 palms.................... 213 pino de tea.............. 214 rosewood............... 217 sabicu................... 215 sabina................... 215 sandbox tree............ 217 Spanish laurel.......... 217 trumpet tree........... 217 walnut................... 215 wild orange............. 217 vera..................... 216 yaya.................... 215 lands, largest areas of.. 217 Topography................. 202 Torre, Col. Antonio......... 109 Torreon, El................. 100 Vigia, La..................... 55 Tower, San Lazaro.......... 55 Tobacco..................... 219 farms.................... 220 field...................... 40 planting................. 219 Toral, Gen. Jose............ 245 Trade Wind................ 205 Treaty of Paris.............. 245 324 INDEX. Page Tree, ceiba................. 108 Tribunal, supremo.......... 244 Trillo Park................. 126 Triscornia................... 27 Trotcha Hotel.............. 99 Trumpet tree............... 217 Twelve Apostles, battery of 45 Tulipn............ 27, 35, 135 Tunis a Sancti Spiritus R. R. Co...................... 231 Union Club, The............ 116 Democratic Party, The.. 288 Espafiola................ 144 United Ry. of Havana........................... 180, 229, 232 United States, future relations between and Cuba.........................296, 299 Obligations under Paris Treaty................. 300 Hotel, The.............. 140 University of Havana....86, 148 Faculties of............. 148 Urbana de la Habana....... 231 Valdes Park, Cortina de.... 126 Van Horn, Sir Wm......234, 235 Vanilla...................... 223 Varona, Sefior............... 142 Vedado, El.................. 99 City of.................. 27 Vegetable butter............. 226 Vehicles..................... 168 Veja, meaning of............ 220 Velazo Battery............. 50 Velasquez, Don Diego de... 109 Vento Springs.............. 83 Vera......................... 216 Verdugo, meaning of........ 78 Vigia, La................... 55 Villalba, Marqu6s de........ 147 Villate Y Aguas Claras...... 26 Vivac, The................. 77 Volante...................... 171 Page V6Orito...................... 206 Voters, Qualifications of.........................241, 269, 272 Vowels, sound of............ 191 Vuelta Abajo.............129, 219 Wade, Gen.................. 247 Wagon....................... 169 Walls of I3avana, old...... 23 Old City................ 114 Walnut...................... 214 Wards of Havana........... 77 Ward Steamship Co......... 182 Washington Hotel, The..... 140 Water pedlar................. 171 Weyler, Gen................. 79 Western Ry., The........... 181 Co. of Habana........... 232 Wharf, Paula............... 125 Wild orange................ 217 Wilson, Gen. James -1..246, 249 opinion or cattle raising. 221 Cuban people.....242, 291 Wood, Gen. Leonard........ 249 interview with........... 69 Military Governor...... 267 Santiago............. 246 Opinion of Cuban People............. 292 Yanez, Adolfo Saenz, Sec'y Department of Agriculture 248 Yaya......................... 215 Yellow Fever............... 205 Cubans immune to...... 172 Yuca........................ 223 Yumurf, Valley of.......... 128 Zanja, The.................. 83 or Aqueduct............. 35 Zapote................41, 167, 225 Chico.................... 225 Zapotilla..................... 226 Zarzuela, meaning of...... 63 La....................... 60 THE UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN GRADUATE LIBRARY DATE DUE A I 1 99 9 MUTILATE CAKU UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN 3 9015 03017 4133 ci;il~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~