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SIGNPOSTS OF ADVENTURE















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Cop yr ig t by Ii
OLD MAN MOUINTAIIN (MOUNTT CL-EVELANTO) AND) MANTIFOLD
(BELLY) RIV7ER


-I





Signposts of Adventure
Glacier National 'Park as the Indians Know it
BY
JAMES WILLARD SCHULTZ
(APIKUNI)
Author of 'My Life as an Indian,' 'Friends
of My Life as an Indian,' etc.


WITH ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAP


BOSTON AND NEW YORK
HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY
Tbe  iberSibe Vrcess Cambribge
1926





COPYRIGHT, 1926, BY JAMES WILLARD SCHULTZ


ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
lbec iberoibe re%%
CAMBRIDGE. MASSACHUSETTS
PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.





Contents
I. INTRODUCTORY                           3
II. BLACKFEET INDIAN NAMES OF THE TOPOGRAPHICAL FEATURES OF GLACfER NATIONAL
PARK UPON ITS EAST SIDE                20
III. KUTENAI INDIAN NAMES OF THE TOPOGRAPHICAL FEATURES OF THE WEST SIDE OF GLACIER
NATIONAL PARK                        204










Illustrations


OLD MAN MOUNTAIN AND MANIFOLD RIVER
Frontispiece
SACRED DANCING LAKE AND OLD MAN DOG MOUTNTAIN                                     8
FORT UNION, 1833                          16
From a drawing by Bodner
FORT BENTON                               16
From a lithograph
BULL'S BACK FAT AND EAGLE RIBS            22
From Catlin's Illustrations of the Manners, Customs, and
Condition of the North American Indians
CAPTAIN JAMES KIPP                        28
RUNNING EAGLE FALLS AT Low WATER          46
RISING WOLF MOUNTAIN                      50
Fox WOMAN MOUNTAIN                        50
SACRED SHIELD MOUNTAIN                    54
No CHIEF MOUNTAIN                         68
ICE FORMATION ON BLACKFEET GLACIER        82
TWIN BUTTE PEAKS IN CUTBANK VALLEY        86
vii





Illustrations
EAST FROM LITTLE CHIEF PASS             I00
GUNSIGHT LAKE                           Io6
KENNETH MACKENZIE                       I I
MAJOR ALEXANDER CULBERTSON              114
BEAVER CHILD MOUNTAIN                   118
GOING TO THE SUN MOUNTAIN               118
LOWER LAKE-INSIDE                       122
GRINNELL GLACIER AND LONE WOMAN LAKE  1140
GRINNELL MOUNTAIN                       140
HEAVY SHIELD MOUNTAIN AND JEALOUS WOMAN'S
LAKE                                   144
ICE LAKE                                148
OLD SUN MOUNTAIN FROM RED GAP PASS      162
LONE MAN LAKE AND GOOD EAGLE TAIL MOUN- 178
TAIN
CHIEF CURLY BEAR -                      192
RED BIRD MOUNTAIN                       216
MAP OF GLACIER NATIONAL PARK WITH KEY TO
INDIAN PLACE-NAMES                  At end
The Photographs of Glacier Park scenery are all by Hileman,
Kalispell, Montana.





SIGNPOSTS OF ADVENTURE










Signposts of Adventure
Glacier JVational Park as the Indians Know It
I
INTRODUCTORY
IN the summer of 1915, five years after Glacier
National Park was established, a number of
families of the Pikuni - or, as they are officially misnamed, the Blackfeet - set up their
lodges on the shore of Two Medicine Lodges
Lake, which lies just outside the east line of
the Park. From there, every morning, the old
hunters rode out in quest of the few elk and
deer remaining in the timbered foothills of
their reservation, the while their women
gathered great store of berries to dry for winter use.. A few of the hunters were successful,
and around the evening lodge-fires we feasted
upon fat roasted ribs. Then, while the big pipe
was going around the circle, we talked of many
3





Signposts of Adventure
things; often of encampments and adventures
in this very place, when buffalo meat was the
staff of life and buffalo robes and buffalo
leather the clothing and the shelter of the
people. But the talk was not always of the
past. One night, when it turned upon matters
of the present day, my old friend, Tail-Feathers-Coming-over-the-Hill, spoke bitterly of
that which he named 'The most recent wrong
that the whites have put upon us.'
Said he: 'It is true that, nineteen winters
ago, we sold to the whites this Backbone-ofthe-World portion of our reservation. But
did we at the same time sell to them the names
that we--and our fathers before us--had
given to these mountains, lakes, and streams?
'No! We did not sell them!' And now the
whites have wiped them out, and upon the
map of the country have put their own names;
foolish names of no meaning whatever! Our
names for the region were, in a way, the history of our people to far-back times. My
friends, the whites' names should at once be
4





In Glacier National Park


wiped out and our names restored to the maps
of the region, that our children who, come after
us may be ever reminded of the bravery, the
dignity, the in-,every-way fine character of
their once powerful ancestors, and so be ever
proud of the blood in their veins!'
"Ai! Ai! True! That should be done!' the
old man's listeners exclaimed.
Pointing to me, the old chief continued:
'Right here is one of us who can do it.' Ap'ikuni, we name you for this important work!'
'Ai! Ai! You can do it! You must do it!'
chorused the little circle.
'I shall be glad to do it, but not this summer; other work prevents,' I replied.
Summer after summer, when I came again
and again to camp and visit with my friends
of the old buffalo days, they urged that the
work be done, but other and pressing matters
always necessitated its postponement, and it
was not until the spring of this year of I925
that, with the assistance of one deeply interested in the early history of the Northwest,
5





Signposts of Adventure
Mr. Ralph Budd, of Saint Paul, the way was
opened for us to carry out our long-cherished
plan.
On June I, 1925, I again camped with the
older men of the Pikuni and their families
upon the shores of Two Medicine Lodges Lake.
But how many were missing of those who had
been there with us ten years before! Gone
to the Sand Hills - dread abode of the dead
of the Blackfeet tribes - were the shadows
of Tail-Feathers-Coming-over-the-Hill, Medicine Owl, Boy Chief, and a host of less noted
friends.
Counseling together around the evening
lodge-fire in Curly Bear's sacred beaver medicine lodge, we soon came to agreement upon
the prosecution of the work. Briefly, it was
decided that -
i. We should erase all the white names of
the topographical points of our side - the
east side -of the Park, with the exception of
the names of the white men who were, or had
been, members of the Blackfeet tribes, or who
6





In Glacier National Park


had been closely identified with them as their
true friends.
2. That we should ourselves give names to
the various east-side points that our tribes
in the past had neglected to name.
3. That as the west side of the. Park had
been a part of the vast country of the Kutenai
and other tribes, they should be asked to restore to it the names that they had given its
various features.
4. That Takes-Gun-First or Eli Guardipee
- as he is known to the whites - and Curly
Bear should be my close and constant assistants in the prosecution of the work.
So ended our council. Camp was broken and
we went our various ways, Guardipee, Curly
Bear, and I, north to Fort McLeod, Alberta,
Canada, to meet some members of the North
or Canadian branch of the Kutenai tribe. One
of them was a half-Kutenai half-Pikuni man
of great intelligence, named by his Pikuni
mother, Kakitos' (Star), who gladly acted as
7





Signposts of Adventure
our interpreter. When he told his companions
the object of our visit to them, they became
quite excited over the opportunity we offered
to restore to the west side of Glacier Park the
names that their ancestors had given its various features. Beginning on the following
morning, and during daily sessions of a week,
they named them one by one, and with utmost care for accuracy, until we had them all,
from the International Boundary south to the
southern line of the Park. I was more than
pleased with the descriptive quality of some
of these Kutenai names; particularly so when
I learned that the Baby Glacier is 'TheIce-where-the-Goats'-Children-Play,' and that
Lake Macdonald is 'Sacred Dancing Lake.'
During our Two Medicine Lodges Lake
council, it had been enthusiastically decided
that two of our mountains should bear the
names of Mrs. James Kipp and Joseph Kipp,
widow and son respectively of that fearless
and enterprising member of the old American
Fur Company, Captain James Kipp. They
8





copyrigt lby flieniall
SACRED DANCING LAKE AND OLD MAN DOG MOUNTAIN (MOUNT CANNON)


I ~ &
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In Glacier National Park
had been for many years, and until they died,
respected and honored members of the Pikuni.
Further to honor them, we desired to give to
their mountains, not only their Pikuni names,
but their Mandan names as well; so, upon our
return from the North, we joined the Upper
Missouri Historical Expedition to the site of
old Fort Union, at the mouth of the Yellowstone River, North Dakota.
We there met delegations of Indians of
many tribes: Gros Ventres, Assiniboines,
Yanktonais Sioux, Crows, Minnetarees, Mandans, Arickarees, and Chippewas. We found
the Mandans busily erecting upon the river
bluff a facsimile of the heavily timbered
earth-covered commodious lodges in which
their ancestors had lived for centuries. A
lodge like those which had sheltered Sieur de
la Verendrie and his hardy followers in 1743;
like those in which the members of the Lewis
and Clark Expedition had passed many a
pleasant hour in the winter of 18o4-o5. When
we told the lodge-builders that their deceased
9





Signposts of Adventure


relatives had been our close friends, they
gladly gave us their names. Mrs. Kipp was
I-pa-sha' (Good Eagle Tail), and Joseph Kipp
was Mato'-i-karup-tahe (Bear Looking Back).
Their pleasure and pride was boundless when
we told them that we were to name two peaks
of the Shining Mountains for their loved
relatives.
It was an occasion never to be forgotten by
those participating in it, that gathering of
governors of States, members of the bar,
educators, librarians, authors, journalists,
and Indians, upon the very spot where, in
1828, Kenneth Mackenzie built Fort Union,
and so obtained for the American Fur Company, of which he was a member, absolute
control of the fur trade in the whole Upper
Missouri country. With impressive ceremony
the ten-acre tract in which the fort had stood
was made an Historical Monument. But I was
glad that the delegations of Indians did not
grasp the meaning of the beginning of the
ceremony, the hoisting to the top of the long
10





In Glacier National Park


pole of first, the flag of France, then the flag of
England, and last, the Stars and Stripes, in
honor of the successive occupants by force of
this Northwest country. The while the orator
of the day told of the history of Fort Union,
spoke of it as the opening of the door to the
settlement and civilization of the Dakotas and
Montana, the Indians sadly told of-the days of
the buffalo; of the days when they knew not
want.
Returning to Glacier Park from Fort Union,
and ably assisted by Guardipee and Curly
Bear, Sacred Posse Ribs, Mountain Chief,
Many Tail Feathers, and others, the renaming
of the topographical features of the Park was
carried on to completion, after several months
of time, and amid a rising tide of protest.
Florence, Josephine, and Elizabeth- did not
want Indian names restored to the lakes that
had been named for them; Stark Point. should
continue to be the name for the point of the,
mountain which, in deepest gratitude. for his
aid when in dire need, the Pikuni had- long
HI





Signposts of Adventure


since named for Dr. George Bird Grinnell, or
'Fisher Cap,' as they affectionately call him.
And several religious organizations insisted
that Heaven's Peak was far more appropriate
for a certain mountain than any old Indian
name by which it had been known.
And now, before listing the Indian names of
the various features of Glacier National Park,
a brief account of the Indian tribes who once
roamed it is in order.
According to Blackfeet history, the Shoshonies, Salish, and Kutenais roamed both
slopes of the Rocky Mountains, and the Crows
the eastern foothills and adjacent plains, from
the Saskatchewan to the Missouri, before the
advent of the horse; the Blackfeet tribes
occupying the forests and swamps of the
Great Slave Lake country. In the eighteenth
century, obtaining horses from more southern
tribes, particularly the Shoshonies, or Snakes,
and firearms from the early traders, the Blackfeet moved south, driving the Crows before
them, and laid claim to the east slope of the
I2





In Glacier National Park


Rockies as far south as the Yellowstone River,
and to the plains as far east as the mouth of
that river. They successfully held all of this
vast territory against aggression by enemy
tribes until it was taken from them by the
whites, some of it by honest purchase, the
greater part by plain theft. Proof of this migration of the Blackfeet tribes is found in their
names for the cardinal points of the compass:
North, is Aput'ososts (back, or behind, direction);: south, Amska'pots (ahead direction);
east, penah'pots (down direction); west, ahme'tots (up direction).
Before the Crows were finally driven to the
Yellowstone by the Blackfeet, the Shoshonies,
or Snakes, a far more timid tribe, took refuge
in the mountains of what is now Wyoming,
where they have since remained. The Salish
tribes, Kalispels, Pend'Oreilles, Okanagans,
and Spokanes, and the Nez Perc6s, ceased
coming out upon the plains after buffalo, and
only occasionally crossed the range to hunt
them in the foothills, and then only at the
13





Signposts of Adventure


risk of their lives. The Kutenais and the
Stonies - the latter a branch of Assiniboine
Sioux, and newly come to the Rockies-remained, upon the whole, on friendly terms
with the Blackfeet tribes but both were essentially mountain hunters and. timid. They
preferred the fastnesses of the great range to
life upon the plains, where they were exposed
to attack, not only by the Blackfeet, but also
by war parties of other plains tribes. The
Stonies, particularly, were of most retiring
nature, never going upon raids against other
tribes; they counted coups upon grizzly bears
instead of upon human foes. As late as 1888,
I camped with both of these tribes at the
Lakes Inside - Saint Mary's Lakes - and
learned much about their sure and destructive
methods of hunting mountain game.
In the remote past, doubtless, the so-called
Blackfeet were one small tribe of Algonkian
stock, inhabiting the forests and muskegs of
the Slave Lakes and Peace River country.
Increasing in number until they could no
14





In Glacier National Park


longer live and hunt together, they separated
into different bands which in time became
three great tribes: the Siksika' (Blackfeet);
the Kai'na (Many Chiefs, incorrectly named
by the whites, the Bloods); the Pikuni (Faroff Robes), meaning buffalo robes that have
come from a far place. My own name, Ap'ikuni, which I long believed meant Spotted
Robe, proves to be White-far-off-Robe. One
of the clans of the Pikuni, the Inuk'siks
(Small Robes), was so numerous and aggressive that it often traveled and hunted independently of the tribe, and so was considered
by early adventurers and writers to have been
a tribe in itself. Early in the eighteenth century these tribes made alliance with the Saksis', a tribe of Athapaskan stock, and the
Utse'na (Big Bellies, or Gros Ventres), and so
was formed the group of tribes that the early
traders named the Blackfeet Confederacy. It
should have been named the Pikuni Confederacy, for the Pikuni was by far the largest
and most powerful of all these tribes. My old
15





Signposts of Adventure
friend Hugh Monroe, or Rising Wolf, informed me that, when he arrived at Mountain
Fort, on the Saskatchewan, in 1816, the confederacy numbered about forty, thousand
people.
The earliest traders and travelers in the
Northwest found the Siksika' and Saksis' occupying the plains and mountain slopes of
the Upper Saskatchewan River; the Kai'na
roaming the country between the Saskatchewan and the northernmost tributaries of the
Missouri; the Pikuni and Utse'na holding the
rest of the vast hunting-ground against the
depredations of the southern, eastern, and
west-of-the-Rockies enemy tribes. With the
advent of the American Fur Company in the
Upper Missouri River country, however, all
of the tribes of the Confederacy gathered in
the southern part of their vast territory, and
traded in their furs and buffalo robes at the
posts of that company, instead of going,
each spring, to the posts of the Hudson's Bay
Company, in the North. After the American
16





FORT UNION, 1833
From a drawing by Bodner, who accompanied Maximilian, Prince of Wied, on
his journey through the Northwest in 1833


FORT BENTON
From a lithograph published in Explorations for a Route for a Railroad from
the Mississippi to the Pacific, by Isaac I. Stevens, 186o


0
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In Glacier National Park


Fur Company went out of business, in 1864,
and until the extermination of the buffalo
herds, in 1883, they traded almost exclusively
with the firms and itinerant traders whose
headquarters were in Fort Benton, Montana.
At the present time, the Siksika' (Blackfeet) number about twelve hundred, and reside
upon their reservation, thirty miles east of
Calgary, Alberta; the Kai'na (Bloods) about
two thousand, are on Belly River, Alberta;
the Pikuni, twenty-five hundred, have a
reservation of sixty square miles, adjoining
the east side of Glacier Park. The Utse'na,
or Gros Ventres, one thousand, have a reservation in the Bear Paw country, south of
Chinook, Montana. The Kutenais are in two
small bands, one in British Columbia, the
other with the various Salish tribes of the
Flathead Reservation, Montana. The few
hundreds of the Saksis' and Stonies are on a
"smaIl reservation just west of Calgary.
During these months of our work in restoring the old names - and adding others - to
17





Signposts of Adventure


the topographical features of Glacier National
Park, we have had a by no means joyous time.
For we have constantly been obliged to contrast the days that were with the present
time: days when Fort Benton was the only
settlement upon the Montana plains; days
when, from Canada south to the Yellowstone, and from the Rockies eastward far out
upon the plains, we followed the buffalo herds,
lived contentedly upon them, and firmly believed that all of that vast territory was ours,
absolutely ours. We had no thought that our
Government had broken its I855 Stevens
Treaty with the Blackfeet tribes. We did not
dream that we were to live to see the buffalo
exterminated, the country criss-crossed with
railroads, and all fenced up.
Said Curly Bear, when our task was finished:
'Well, in this we have anyhow done good
work; lasting work. When we old Pikuni die,
our knowledge dies with us. But the whites
put their knowledge upon paper before they
die, and that knowledge lives forever. But
I8





In Glacier National Park
now our children are learning the whites'
ways; they will read this our work, and their
hearts will be glad. Kyi! Let us smoke and
rest.'
The Indian words 'in this book are given the Italian
pronunciation of the vowels, with the addition of several diacritical marks., as follows:


a as in father.
at as in hat.
e as a in ate.
e, as in then.
i as e in eat.
i as in it.


o as in oat.
o as 00 in coon.
u as in cute.
fl as in but.
' the accent.
ai as i in kite.





II
BLACKFEET INDIAN NAMES OF TOPOGRAPHICAL FEATURES OF GLACIER NATIONAL
PARK UPON ITS EAST SIDE, FROM ITS
SOUTHERN BOUNDARY NORTH TO
THE CANADIAN LINE
I. Makakin'si Istfiki. Backbone Mountain.
Summit Mountain..
So named because it is a crest peak of the
Rockies, the Backbone-of-the-World.
2. Pi'tamakan Oksokwi'. Running Eagle's
Trail. Marias pass.
Running Eagle was a virgin woman warrior
of the Pikuni, and the only woman in the
Blackfeet tribes ever given a man's name.
She became so successful in raids against
enemy tribes that the greatest of the Pikuni
warriors eagerly followed her lead. Her favorite trail to the country of the west-side tribes
was the one running through this mountain
pass. For a last time she led a large war party
20





In Glacier National Park


through it, and was killed when attacking a
camp of Kalispels on Flathead Lake. For the
complete story of this remarkable woman, see
'Running Eagle, The Warrior Girl.' Published by Houghton Mifflin Company, Boston.
3. Mokap' Oksokwi'. Bad Pass.
4. StUimiks' Osak IstfikLi Bull's Back Fat
Mountain.
Bull's Back Fat was a great chief of the
Kaina (Bloods) and one of the earliest members of the Blackfeet Confederacy of whom
we have any written record. Arriving at Fort
Union, in June, 1832, on the steamboat
Yellowstone, George Catlin, the noted artist,
writes of the chief as follows:
Letter No. 5
MOUTH OF YELLOWSTONE
UPPER MISSOURI
I have this day been painting a portrait of the
head chief of the Blackfeet Nation; he is a goodlooking and dignified Indian, about fifty years of
age, and superbly dressed; whilst sitting for his
2I





Signposts of Adventure
picture he has been surrounded by his own braves
and warriors, and gazed at by his enemies, the
Crows and the Knisteneaux, Assiniboines and
Ojibbeways; a number of distinguished personages
of which tribes have lain all day around the sides
of my room; reciting to each other the battles they
have fought, and pointing to the scalp-locks worn
as proof of their victories, and attached to the
seams of their shirts and leggings. This is a curious
scene to witness, when one sits in the midst of such
inflammable and combustible materials, brought
together, unarmed, for the first time in their lives;
peaceably and calmly recounting over the deeds of
their lives, and smoking their pipes upon it, when
a few days or weeks will bring them on the plains
again, where the war cry will be raised, and their
deadly bows will be drawn against each other.
The name of this dignitary of whom I have just
spoken, is Sttimiks Osak (the buffalo's back fat).'
June, 1832, was a red-letter month to the
American Fur Company, for then were accomplished two events of the utmost importance to it: (i) the successful steamboat navigation of the Missouri, from its confluence
with the Mississippi to the mouth of the
1 Letters and Notes on Manners, Customs, and Conditions of
the North American Indians. By George Catlin. New York:
Wiley and Putnam, 161 Broadway. 1841.
22





Cr'
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Cr'


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116n
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In Glacier National Park


Yellowstone and Fort Union, a distance of
twenty-two hundred miles by the channel;
(2) the arrival at the fort of a large party of
members of the different tribes of the Blackfeet Confederacy, for the purpose of trading
in their winter take of furs and buffalo
robes.
After building Fort Union, in i8z8, for the
purpose of securing the trade of all of the
tribes of the Upper Missouri country, Kenneth Mackenzie sought in vain for a way to
obtain that of the Blackfeet tribes.. They had,
in 18io, brought to naught Manuel Liza's
attempt to establish a fort at the Three Forks
of the Missouri, for the purpose of trade with
them, and since that time they had killed all
the American trappers that they had discovered in their territory. But when, in 183o,
Mackenzie had given up all hope of the
Blackfeet trade, there arrived at Fort Union
a deserter from the Hudson's Bay Company,
by the name of Berger. How he came, if
alone, or with a party of Assiniboines or
2j 3





-Signposts of Adventure


Crees, is not known. Anyhow, there he was,
the one man in all the Upper Missouri country
who intimately knew the Blackfeet tribes and
could speak their language. Mackenzie had
little difficulty in inducing him to attempt to
find some members of the Confederacy and
bring them to Fort Union for a peace talk.
Though it was known to be a very dangerous
undertaking, five of the Company engages
volunteered to accompany Berger, and early
in the fall of 183o the little party struck out
westward from the fort. They traveled day
after day without seeing Indians of any tribe,
until, at last, fresh signs of them were found
in the valley of Badger Creek, a tributary of
the Marias Fork of the Missouri, close up
under the Rockies. That evening, as usual in
making camp, Berger set up a long pole to
which was attached a large American flag.
This was discovered by a party of early
morning hunters from a near-by mixed camp
of Pikuni, Bloods, and Blackfeet. They had
never before seen the Stars and Stripes, but
1 24





In Glacier National Park


they considered a flag a signal of the peaceful
intentions of its carriers, and, riding in, were
pleased to find that the leader of the little
party of whites was their old North friend,
Apikaiyi Istsimokan (Skunk Cap).
Berger and his men accompanied the
hunters to their camp, where they were well
received, and after giving out the presents
that he had for them, and after many talks,
Berger induced a number of the chiefs and
leading men of the camp to accompany him
and his party to Fort Union. With their women, they were seventy-two in all, and Bull's
Back Fat was the principal chief. None of
the members of the Blackfr.et tribes.. had ever
been so far east as the mouth of the Yellowstone, and after passing the mouth of Milk
River, some of the warriors began to object
to going farther. They did not believe that
the whites had a trading-post at the mouth of
the Yellowstone; they suspected that Berger
was leading them to some remote point where
they were to be ambushed by the Assiniboines
Z5





Signposts of Adventure


or other enemies. Although Bull's Back Fat
did all that he could to allay their fears, they
became more and more surly and suspicious,
and at last, when near Fort Union, threatened
to kill the whites and back-trail to Badger
Creek. It is likely that they would have made
good their threat, in spite of the remonstrances
of Bull's Back Fat, had not Berger told them
that, if he failed to lead them into the whites'
fort on the following day, they were welcome
to kill him and his men. At about ten o'clock
the next morning, the party rounded a large
cottonwood grove, and lo! there was the fort
plainly in sight. Their approach was discovered, the flag was run up, and cannons
boomed them a salute. Dressed all in his best
and with a sword at his side, Kenneth Mackenzie came out through the big gateway and
greeted them, led them into the fort, and
lavishly entertained them, loading them with
valuable presents. A few days later, he had
no difficulty in getting them to make a treaty
of peace with him, whereby it was agreed that
z6





In Glacier National Park


he should establish a trading-post in some
favorable locality in their country.
Mackenzie selected James Kipp, the Company's trader at Fort Clark, the trading-post
for the Mandans, for the leader of this most
difficult and dangerous undertaking, and allowed him twenty-five men - one of whom
was Berger, the Blackfeet interpreter-and
three large bateaux, loaded with trade goods
and the necessary tools for building purposes.
The party left Fort Union on August 25,
1831, and arrived at the mouth of the Marias
River early in October. There a very large
camp of the Blackfeet tribes was eagerly
awaiting their arrival, in order to trade their
beaver skins for much-needed guns, ammunition, and traps. Kipp informed them that he
could not build a fort and trade at the same
time, and, after much argument, he prevailed
upon them to go out and trap more beavers,
and return in eighty days, when he would be
in shape quickly to trade for all their furs.
Bull's Back Fat, who, with the other members
27





Signposts of Adventure


of the Berger party, had returned from Fort
Union to this great camp, ably assisted Kipp
in getting the postponement of the trading.
At the end of the stipulated time, the Indians
trailed back to the mouth of the Marias, where
they found, to their astonishment, a substantially built log fort. Kipp at once opened
trade with them, and in the first ten days took
in over the counter twenty-four hundred
beaver skins and some hundreds of welltanned buffalo robes. Long before spring
came, he disposed of all his trade goods, and.
the Indians still had many beaver skins and
buffalo robes in their lodges. When, therefore,
he and his men set out for Fort Union in their
deeply laden mackinaws, Bull's Back Fat led
a very large party of Pikuni, Bloods, and
Blackfeet, overland to that fort, to trade, and
so it was that Catlin met them there.
I Kipp was unable to persuade any of his
men to remain at Fort Piegan until he could
return with more goods, and soon after he
arrived at Fort Union a belated party of the
28





CAPTAIN JAMES KLPP
March 29, 1873
~I f
-Z)










In Glacier National Park


Pikuni brought word that Fort Piegan had
been burned by traders of the Hudson's Bay
Company. As Kipp wished again to take
charge of Fort Clark, the Mandan post, Mackenzie sent D. D. Mitchell, with a fine outfit
of men, mackinaws, and goods, to build
another post for the trade of the Blackfeet
tribes. He chose a location on the left bank of
the Missouri, about six miles above the mouth
of the Marias River, and there built Fort
Mackenzie, in which he was ably assisted by
Bull's Back Fat, who kept him supplied with
meat,Wand also kept the Indians of the various
tribes at a distance, until the work of construction was completed.
It is said of Bull's Back Fat, that he was one
of the bravest chiefs of the Blackfeet tribes
who ever lived, and at the same time of most
kindly and generous disposition. He led
many war parties against the Sioux, Crees, and
Crows, always with great success. Some years
previous to 1832, a hunting party of his tribe
-the Bloods  was attacked by avwar party
29





Signposts of Adventure


of Crows, and during the fight his son and
son's wife were killed and their son, a boy of
two or three years, captured by the enemy.
News of this disaster soon reached camp, and
Bull's Back Fat hurriedly gathered a number
of his warriors and led them upon the trail of
the raiders, overtook and killed the most of
them., and recovered his grandson.
For some strange, unknown reason, one of
the members of the Crow tribe wanted the
boy, and a few months later again succeeded
in stealing and making off with him, when the
boy was playing in the outskirts of the camp.
Declining any assistance, Bull's Back Fat set
out in quest of him. After many nights of
-travel., he sighted the Crow camp, near the
Beaver Head, an island in the Yellowstone
River not far above the mouth of the Bighorn
River. Night after night the chief stalked
about in the camp of the enemy, unrecognized,
until at last he located the lodge of the boy's
captor. He then brought a Crow horse close
to the doorway of the lodge, rushed into it,
30





In Glacier National Park


drove his lance into the breast of the captor,
seized the boy, and rode off with him, disappearing in the darkness of the night before
the Crows could get to their horses to pursue
him. Several years later, Catlin made a portrait of the boy, Kinuk Ahahchista, at Fort
Union, in the presence of members of the Crow
tribe and of his grandfather, who doubtless
stared triumphantly at those kin of the dead
captor, the while he told them, in the sign
language, how he had regained possession of
the child.
5. Inis'kimahki O'mfiksikimi. Buffalo-Stone
Woman Lake.
This lakelet, close under Bull's Back Fat
Mountain, was named after one of that chief's
women. On page 30, of his 'Letters and
Notes,' Catlin says of her:
The wife (or squaw) of this dignitary, Eeh-niskim (the crystal stone), I have also placed upon
my canvas (plate 13); her countenance is rather
pleasing; her dress is made of skins, and being the
youngest of a bevy of six or eight, and the last one
31





Signposts of Adventure


taken under his guardianship, was smiled upon
with great satisfaction, whilst he exempted her
from the drudgeries of the camp; and keeping her
continually in the halo of his own person, watched
and guarded her as the apple of his eye.
The iniskim (buffalo-stone) is a joint of a
fossilized sea-plant, found here and there in
the Bad Lands of the Upper Missouri and its
tributaries. It is the sacred stone of the
Blackfeet tribes, because, as tradition has it, it
once saved them from starvation. In the very
long-ago the buffalo disappeared and the
people starved. When they were beginning to
die from want of food, a woman, staggering
to the stream for water, heard a peculiar crying noise, and, after some search, found that
it came from a queer-shaped stone that was
lying under a cottonwood log.
'Take me, listen to my song, and learn it,
and I will bring you food,' the stone said to her.
The woman sat down upon the log, held the
stone in her lap and listened to the song, sang
it herself, again and again, until she well knew
it. She then took the stone to her lodge, and
3Z





In Glacier National Park


taught her man and others the strange song.
They sang it over and over, all through the
night, and prayed also to the stone to give
them food. Lo! when morning came, the
plains in every direction from camp were
black with buffalo herds. True to its promise,
the sacred stone saved the people from  starvation. Since that time, stones of this kind
have ever been powerful bringers of good to
those who have found and kept them.
6. Pita Pikists' Istfiki. Eagle Ribs Mountain.
Eagle Ribs was a noted warrior of the
Pikuni tribe, and a member of the trading
party of Blackfeet tribes that Catlin met at
Fort Union, in 1832. The artist says of him:
This man is one of the extraordinary men of the
Blackfeet tribe. Though not a chief, he stands
here in the fort and deliberately boasts of eight
scalps, which he says he has taken from the heads
of trappers and traders with his own hand. His
dress is really superb, almost literally covered
with scalps, savage and civil. I have painted him
at full length (plate 14), with a head dress made
entirely of ermine skins and horns of buffalo.
33





Signposts of Adventure
This custom of wearing horns beautifully polished
and surmounting the head dress, is a very curious
one, being worn only by the bravest of the brave;
by the most extraordinary men in the nation.
7. Inu'kos Istfukl. Buffalo Child Mountain.
Buffalo Child was a member of the Blackfeet tribe, whose portrait (plate 16) Catlin
painted at Fort Union. The artist spelled the
name In-ne-o-cose, which would be dead
child, and gave as the meaning of the word,
'the iron horn.' Little is remembered of the
man.
8. Ikah'ki Istfuki. Small Woman Mountain.
Small Woman died at Two Medicine Lodges
Lake, near this mountain named for her,
about sixty years ago. She was one of the
most sacred women of the Pikuni, in her lifetime having been the chief builder of six different 'medicine lodges,' as the early traders
and trappers misnamed the great lodge built
annually by each of the Blackfeet tribes as a
supreme offering to the sun. Their name for
34





In Glacier National Park


the lodge is Okan' (The Vision). Small Woman
herself had a vision, in which the great travelerof-the-blue gave her certain instructions which
she faithfully observed: she had the hunters of
the tribe bring to her the one hundred buffalo
tongues required for the ceremony, and while
she and her women helpers were cutting them
open for drying, she had the sun priests -
so-called 'medicine men' -sing one hundred
different sacred songs, in which they implored
the sun to look with favor upon this food that
they were preparing for him. Including herself, there were sixteen Okan' women that summer, women who, during the year, had publicly made a vow to the sun, promising that, if
he would make well a certain loved one, husband or father or son, or bring him safely home
from war, they would build the great lodge.
In due time, in the Berries-Ripe moon, the
men, with due ceremony, put up the huge
lodge of posts, poles, and brush. Ikah'ki and
her fifteen women helpers went into it, and
there fasted and prayed for four days, each
35





Signposts of Adventure
day giving to all who entered a small piece of
sacred dried tongue. The recipients ate half
of the small portion, and buried the other half
in the ground, the while they prayed the sun
and earth mother to pity them, and give them
and theirs long and full life. This Okan', of
which Ikah'ki was the chief builder, proved
to be very successful. The prayers of all of
the vow women were heard by the sun, and
granted, and the tribe as a whole prospered in
every way - in health, in the hunt, in war
against enemy tribes. And Ikah'ki, as the
main cause of the great prosperity of the
people, was greatly honored by them.
9. Ni'na Okai'yo Istfiki. Chief Bear Mountain.
In his sixteenth year (about 181o), this
noted member of the Pikuni tribe, Chief Bear,
went with a war party on a raid against the
Assiniboines, who at that time were encroaching upon the eastern part of the great territory
claimed by the Blackfeet Confederacy. One
night, when the party was threading its way
36





In Glacier National Park


across a high sagebrush bottom of the Missouri, the youth stopped to put on a fresh pair
of moccasins, and, while so engaged, heard
some one approaching him. He was quite sure
that the person was not of his party - he had
not noticed any one drop out of it; but to be
absolutely certain that the oncomer was a
foe, he sprang up and seized him, demanding
who he was. The man said something in a
strange language, struggling to free himself:
the other clung to him with all his strength.
They fell and rolled over and over on the
ground, and while Chief Bear held the
enemy's arms closely pinioned against his
sides   6L, i J.110 X adcalU e in contact.WILIt IPC
knife of the struggling man, and, suddenly
drawing it from its sheath, he plunged it into
his breast and killed him. He then shouted to
his companions, and they came running back,
and, building a small fire, discovered that
the dead one was an Assiniboine. So began
Chief Bear's long and successful career as a
warrior. He was also noted for his kindness
37





Signposts of Adventure


to the old and the afflicted of his people, and
was highly thought of by the traders of the
American Fur Company.
In planning this renaming work with the
other members of our council, I suggested that
we give to the topographical features of the
Two Medicine drainage the names of the
earliest of the people of the Confederacy of
whom we have any record, oral or written.
Objection was made to that, as several of the
points had long since been named, as, for
instance: Red Crow Mountain, Bear Head
Mountain, Ap'fitstoki Mountain, and others.
But when I explained that we could give these
names to points 'farther north, I had my way
about it. And after further talk, it was agreed
that the names of the features of the east side
of the Park, from south to north, should be
also,, as Tail-Feathers-Coming-over-the-Hill
had long since said, a history of the Blackfeet
Confederacy down to the present time. So,
having so far named the various mountains
for members of the Confederacy whom Catlin
38





In Glacier National Park


met at Fort Union, in 1832, we continue with
the members of the tribes met and described
by Alexander Philip Maximilian, Prince of
Wied-Neuwied, during his sojourn at Fort
Mackenzie, from August 9 to September 14,
1833. Of these, Maximilian had much to relate
about Chief Bear, in his 'Travels in the Interior of North America, in the Years 1832,
1833, and 1834.'
Soon after Maximilian arrived at Fort
Mackenzie, the Factor in charge, D. D.
Mitchell, gave a feast to the chiefs of the
tribes there assembled. Says the Prince:
While the company of Indians were employed
in smoking, Mr. Mitchell took Ninoch-Kiaiu,
(Chief Bear) who had always been very faithful
and devoted to the Whites and the Fur Company,
into his own room, and presented him with a new
uniform, half red and half green, with red and green
facings, and trimmed with silver lace; a red felt
hat, ornamented with many tufts of feathers; in
short, a complete dress, and a new double-barreled
percussion gun. Mr. Mitchell wished particularly
to distinguish this man, because he had never been
to the north to trade with the Hudson's Bay Comy. When he had equipped himself iwnhis hneew
39





Signposts of Adventure


uniform, which was worth r5o dollars, and entered
the assembly of the chiefs in the courtyard of the
fort, it immediately became evident that the distinction conferred upon him made no favorable
impression upon them; some chiefs who had made
presents to Mr. Mitchell, and had not yet received
anything in return, for instance, MrhkskehmeSukahs, could not conceal their feelings; the latter
hid his head behind the person who was next to
him, while others hung down their heads, and
seemed lost in thought.... The Chief Bear was
then made to mount his gray horse, that he might
show himself out of the fort in his new dress. In a
rather constrained manner he made a speech to the
warriors assembled before the fort, then rode to
camp, returned, and alighted. It must be observed that this man was not popular, and that
at this time his situation was very dangerous; and
we afterward saw him sitting, with his head drooping, like a proscribed person, and afterward retiring
to Mr. Mitchell's room, where he remained alone.
Soon there arose violent debates among the chiefs;
and as Berger, the proper interpreter for the
Blackfeet language, was absent, this circumstance,
perhaps, increased the misunderstanding....The
Blood Indians were offended; they spoke loudly
of shooting Chief Bear, between whom and his
friends, long conferences took place.
The result of this was that, a few mornings
later, the Blood Indians, not daring to attack
40





In Glacier National Park


Chief Bear, killed his nephew, at some distance from the fort, and then that particular
band of the tribe hurriedly fled from the
vengeance of the Pikuni chief. He would have
pursued them had not a band of six hundred
Assiniboines and Crees, early on the following
morning, made a sudden attack upon the Pikuni and Blackfeet who were encamped around
the fort. In the battle that ensued - most
thrillingly described by Maximilian - Chief
Bear played a very important and brave part.
Other matters then required a postponement
of his vengeance; and at last he was persuaded
by the whites, and by his relatives, to make a
peaceable settlement with the murderers. I
shall have more to say of him, later on.
io. Mik'skim Aso'kas Istfiki. Iron Shirt
Mountain.
Iron Shirt was the Blackfeet chief who was
so chagrined when Bear Chief appeared in the
gorgeous uniform given him by the Factor of
Fort Mackenzie, as related by Maximilian.
41





Signposts of Adventure


The early or youthful name of this chief is not
remembered. While upon a raid into the far
south, the Always-Summer Land, probably
New Mexico or Arizona, he obtained a shirt
of mail when he and his large war party attacked and looted a small Spanish settlement.
Upon his return home, in the following summer, he announced at the time of the Okan'
ceremony that he took the name Mik'skim
Aso'kas (Iron Shirt), as he had killed its
Spanish owner. He died on Belly River, in
the eighteen-fifties, and his prized shirt was
buried with him.
iI. Stfim'iks Otokan' Istfiki. Bull's Head
Mountain.
The mountain was so named because of its
fancied resemblance to the head of a buffalo
bull.
12. Staht'si Stfimik Istfiki. Under Bull
Mountain.
Under Bull was one of the Pikuni warriors
42





In Glacier National Park


who took a prominent part in the fight with
the Assiniboines and Crees, at Fort Mackenzie in August, 1833.
13. Na'toki Okan' Isisak'ta. Two Medicine
Lodges River.
The early name of the Blackfeet tribes for
this river is not remembered. Its. present
name was given to it when, in the long-ago,
the Pikuni held their annual religious ceremony, the Okan', in its valley, at the foot of
the mountains, and shortly afterward, only a
few days later, the Bloods trailed in from the
north and built their Okan' close beside the
one of the Pikuni. As I have already explained,
the meaning of the word Okan' is 'The
Vision'; so, rightly, this would be 'Two
Vision Lodges River.' However, as the early
traders' word 'medicine' is now generally
known to have been applied to the spiritual -
religious - life and rites of the Indians, it is
well to let the name remain as it is upon the
maps of the region: Two Medicine River.
43





Signposts of Adventure


The river's three lakes are named, respectively, Lower, Middle, and Upper Two Vision
Lodges River Lakes.
14. Sokapin'i Pahwakwi'. Big Eyes' Ridge.
This long high ridge, running from Fox
Woman Mountain down past Lower Two
Medicine Lake and well out upon the plain,
lies mostly within the Blackfeet Reservation.
Bears, elk, and deer are still to be found upon
its timbered slopes. Upon a day in the BerriesRipe moon of 1900, Big Eyes, or Francois
Monroe, son of Rising Wolf, Hugh Monroe,
with his nephew, Siksikai'kwan, William Jackson, and I, made camp at the foot of the Lower
Lake. After we had set up our lodge and
cooked and enjoyed a good lunch of trout,
dough-gods, and coffee,. Big Eyes saddled and
mounted his slow old horse, and, crossing the
outlet of the lake, went up onto the ridge in
quest of deer or elk, his weapon a forty-four
caliber rim-fire Winchester carbine.
An hour or so passed, and then we heard a
44





In Glacier National Park


shot; then three more shots in quick succession.
'Meat! Fat roast ribs, broiled liver, for our
evening meal,' said IL
'God!- I'm sure hungry for it! I hope it is a
fat bull elk that he killed,' said Jackson.
A half-hour or more later we saw Big Eyes
emerge from the brush and ford the outlet.
There. was no bulging load of meat and hide
behind his saddle; he was all humped over,
weaving in his seat; and soon after making the
crossing he slumped down upon the ground.
We ran to him, found him covered with. blood,
his clothing torn to shreds. We dashed water
upon his face, and b *rought. him out of his
faint. We examined his body and found a
shoulder torn and broken,. a badly broken and
mangled right hand, deep gashes across his
face and breast. Haltingly he told us that he
had shot at a big grizzly 'in a patch of service
berry brush, whereupon three more grizzlies
had risen up. He then fired at two of them.
One came for him; he fired a last shot, and the
wounded animal at tacked him. The long
45





-Signposts of Adventure
bridle of his horse was wrapped around his left
arm. As he was fainting from the pain of the
bear's bites and clawings, he saw his horse
kicking backward at the bear, and knew no
more. Upon coming out of his faint, he saw
that the bears were gone. He believed that his
horse, unable to get free, and wildly kicking at
the bear, had saved his life. Jackson and I
were not so sure that he would recover from
his terrible wounds. We feared that blood
poisoning would set in, so we hurried him down
to the Blackfeet Agency and placed him under
'the Government physician's care. His wounds
healed, but he was crippled for life. Returning
to the lake, Jackson and I went up to the scene
of the bear fight, and there found and followed
a bloody trail of one of the bears, but lost it in
the heavy timber. From that time, the high
ridge has been known as Big Eyes' Ridge.
Near eighty years of age, Big Eyes is at this
time, and with his stiff and deformed hand,
making a very realistic pictograph in colors of
his fight with the bears.
46





it-.






RUN~NTIING EAGLE FALLS AT LOW WATER


X,. 4,










In Glacier National Park


I5. Pi'tamakan Awhtuihkwi'. Running Eagle
Falls.
These falls were named, as well as the mountain previously mentioned, after the virgin,
long-ago warrior woman of the Pikuni. A
half-mile below the Middle Two Medicine
Lake the river sinks under a mass of boulders,
and does not reappear until it gushes from a
dark cavern in a high ledge across the valley,
a mile farther down, making, perhaps, the
most unique falls in the country. The warrior
woman had great adventure at this place,
as is related in 'The Dreadful River Cave,'
published by Houghton Mifflin Company,
Boston.
16. Mahkwi' I'pwoatsin Istfiki. Wolf Rising
Mountain.
We say in English, of course, Rising Wolf.
That you may rightly pronounce this name,
which brings back to the old Indians, and the
whites associated with them, so many memories of the long-ago: Mah-kwi': a as in father;
47





Signposts of Adventure


z the sound of e in eat; the accent on the last
syllable. I'-pwo-at-sin: first I as e in eat; a as
in father; last i as in hiti; accent on the first
syllable, I'.
The tourist tens of thousands who annually
look up at this great red-and-gray mountain,
can have no least conception of our feelings
whenever we look upon it, we who named
it. for the imposing and lasting monument of
one who was dear to us. Yes, every time we
look upon it, or hear its name, poignantly sad
memories come to us of the long-ago days
when we camped and' hunted with our true
friend., Rising Wolf; memories of the long-ago
days when the buffalo blackened 'the plains,
days of plenty and of high adventure; days.when we firmly -and foolishly - believed
that,, from the Canadian line south to the
Yellowstone River, 'and from the Rockies
eastward for more than three hundred miles,
the country was ours, all ours!1
Our old friend Hugh Monroe, Rising Wolf,
was born in Three Rivers Township, Province
48





In Glacier National Park


of Quebec, July 9, 1798. His father was a
gallant Scotchman, Captain Hugh Monroe, of
the English Army, and his mother was a
daughter of a noble family of French emigres,
Amelie de la Roche. In 1814, after much argument, his family permitted him to become
an engage of the Hudson's Bay Company, and
in the spring of the following year he arrived
at Mountain Fort, the Company's post on
the Saskatchewan close up under the Rocky
Mountains. There the Factor of the fort at
once detailed him to live and travel with the
Pikuni tribe of the Blackfeet Confederacy, in
order that he might thoroughly learn that
language and then become post interpreter.
Under the protection of the head chief, Lone
Walker, he went south with the tribe, even to
the Yellowstone River, and thus was the first
of his race to traverse the foothills of the Rockies between the Saskatchewan River and
Badger Creek, a tributary of the Missouri
River, and the farthest north point of the
Lewis and Clark expedition of 18o4-o6.
49





.Signposts of Adventure


In the spring of the following year, I816,
Rising Wolf returned with the Pikuni to
Mountain Fort, having had great adventure
and having learned the language of the tribe.
But he was not to remain there: the Factor
wanted the trade of the Kutenai Indians, then
trading with the Northwest Fur Company at
their posts on the tributaries of the Columbia
River, and he again sent the youth out with
the Pikuni, with instructions to try to find the
Kutenai tribe and induce its trappers to bring
their beaver skins to Mountain Fort. Again
the youth was absent from the fort for a year,
and was successful in getting the Kutenai trade.
He never became the post interpreter, however, as he much preferred living and traveling and hunting and trapping with the Pikuni,
with whom he came to have great influence,
always for their good. Later on, he was for a
time post hunter for the American Fur Company at Fort Union, Fort Lewis, and Fort
Benton; but for the greater part of his life he
was a free trapper. He early married a Pikuni
50





RISING WOLF MOUNTAIN


FOX WOMAN MOUNTAIN










In Glacier National Park
girl, and by her had three stalwart sons and
three fine daughters.
One of the greatest pleasures of my long
life on the plains was my intimate friendship
with Rising Wolf. During his last years he
lived much with his grandson, William Jackson, who was my partner, and we loved to have
him with us. He died in his ninety-eighth year,
and we buried him in the Two Medicine Valley, under the shadow of the cliffs over which
he had many times helped the Pikuni stampede herds of buffalo. For the story of his
first year with the Pikuni, see 'Rising Wolf,
the White Blackfoot,' published by Houghton
Miffin Company, Boston. Volume II of his
life and adventures is in preparation.
17. Sinopah'ki Istfiki. Fox Woman Mountain.
Sinopah' is the name for the little swift or
kit fox of the plains. Sinopah'ki, daughter of
the great Pikuni chief, Lone Walker, was the
wife of Rising Wolf, his faithful and loving companion whose passing, in 1874, he deeply
51





Signposts of Adventure


mourned. She was a wonderful mother to her
children, a neat lodge-keeper and tireless
worker, and was highly respected by all the
Blackfeet tribes. Uncomplainingly, fearlessly,
she accompanied her man upon his dangerous
trapping expeditions, and during her lifetime
built her lodge-fires in every remote mountain
canyon and in every plains valley in the vast
territory of the Confederacy. We thought it
eminently fitting that we should name this
mountain for her, so near is it to the one that
is her loved man's monument.
1i8. Natowap' Ahwo'tan Istfiki. Sacred Shield
Mountain.
Sacred Shield was one of the Pikuni warriors Maximilian met at Fort Mackenzie.
19. Kfit'-Aina Istfiki. No Chief Mountain.
No Chief was one of the greatest Pikuni
warriors of whom there is any recollection.
Only once during his long career did he fail in
his raids upon the enemy, and then most dis52





In Glacier National Park


astrously. He organized a party of thirty to
raid the Crows, who at that time were encroaching upon the territory of the Blackfeet
Confederacy on the north side of the Yellowstone. A member of the party was his younger
brother, Kinuk' Ah'wekas (Little Antelope),
whom he dearly loved.
Leaving the camp of the Pikuni, then at the
mouth of Sun River, where the city of Great
Falls now stands, and traveling only at night,
the party in due time came to the valley of the
Yellowstone (Ponokah' Isisakta, Elk River)
and then proceeded up it, and more cautiously
than ever. At dawn, they went into hiding
upon a pine-crowned bluff of the river, and
No Chief, going a little apart from the others,
got out his sacred pipe - he was a sun priest,
or so-called 'medicine man'-and ceremoniously smoked to the sky god, and to his own
sacred helper, an animal of his dreams. Long
and earnestly he prayed them to give him a
vision of what the future held for him and
those he led: if danger threatened, to show him
53





Signposts of Adventure
how to avoid it. Then, after carefully putting
his ceremonial things back in their cases, and
after eating the food that his youthful servant
brought to his side, he lay down and slept.
He awoke in the middle of the day, much distressed. Rejoining his party, awakening the
sleeping ones, and calling in those who
watched at the edge of the bluff, he told them
that he had been given, by the All-Powerful
Ones, a vision which, he feared, meant that
they should go no farther up the valley, for
somewhere ahead terrible danger was in wait
for them. During his sleep he had been given
two visions: first, he had seen men fiercely
fighting, some of them falling; and then, after
that vision had faded, he-had again - his
shadow had - gone forth from his body and,
after some traveling, had discovered dead men
in a grove of timber. They were partly hidden
from him by the underbrush, but from what he
could see of them, they had the appearance of
Pikuni men. He started to go nearer to them,
to examine the bodies, and just then the vision
54
I,,





SACRED SHIELD MOUNTAIN (PUMPELLY PILLAR).&v.










In Glacier National Park
faded, his shadow came back to his body, and
he awoke. Yes, he was quite sure that this
was warning for the party to go no farther up
the valley of Elk River.
There followed great argument about the
visions. A few of the party believed, as their
leader did., that they were warning for them to
back-trail. The majority, how ever, argued
that the visions were warnings of victory to
come: No Chief had not examined the dead.,
had not ascertained that they were Pikuni
warriors. It was more than likely that they
were dead Crows,. or other enemies. Of all the
party, Little Antelope was the most insistent
that they should not turn back; and at last',
when he said to his brother, 'As you love our
mother, our brothers and sisters,, as you love
me, I beg you to lead- us on up the valley.,' why,
t hen, No Chief shortly replied: 'I cannot refuse anything you ask of me. Against my
warning vi s-ions, against my every feeling: that
I should not do it, I will lead you on.'
No Chief himself then took the watch for the
55





Signposts of Adventure
rest of the day. From the edge of the bluff he
looked down at a peaceful scene: all up and
down the valley, and out upon the great plain,
buffalo and antelope at rest or lazily grazing.
When the sun was low in the west, his men
awoke and joined him. They too saw that the
animals of the open were quiet. They saw
elk and deer coming from their long rest in
the river groves, to feed and wander about
in the brush-and-grass bottoms; they saw
wolves and coyotes trotting about in the deepworn game trails, never once pausing to sniff
the air - to show that they detected the odor
of their one enemy, man. Said Little Antelope:
'Brother, elder brother, you see how it is, nowhere enemies traveling; your visions surely
meant that we should go on and on in quest
of the enemy.'
No Chief slowly shook his head. 'Would
that we could see, somewhere, the animals in
flight, for then we could locate the enemy,
know how to attack them. Now, more than
ever I have the feeling that we should turn
56





In Glacier National Park
back. Not that we are cowards, no, but for the
reason that my visions are warnings that, however brave we may be, there awaits us, somewhere ahead, the end of the trail for many,
perhaps all of our party.'
'No, not so,' Little Antelope replied. 'Your
visions were of dead enemies, not of us. You
see how quiet the food animals are out there
across and up and down the valley: they will
give us warning of the approach of any enemy,
and if, when we see them, they prove to be too
many for us to attack, why, we can remain
hidden until they pass. Elder brother, do not
turn back! Lead on! Lead on!'
'Yes! Lead on!' cried all but three or four of
the others of the party.
No Chief arose, sighed heavily; looked down
and up the valley and off upon the plains and
answered: 'It shall be as you demand. Come,
we go on.'
At the upper end of the pine-clad bluff,
they turned into a deep, brushy coulee and
followed it down to the river, where they
57





Signposts of Adventure


drank and bathed, and in the shelter of the
grove, ate sparingly of their dried meat.
Came night, dark night,.and they went on; up
one after another of the river bottoms and over
the high points of the plain that separated
them. When the first light of coming day made
white the eastern sky, they had just come into
a long, treeless, brushless bottom, and said No
Chief::'Faster! Faster, my friends! We must get
into a good hiding-place before day fully comes.'
They ran up the long bottom; up over a bare
rocky point of plain and down into the next
bottom, which was also long and treeless,
except for a small grove of cottonwoods near
its upper end. But, though running fast, before
they were halfway to the timber they saw a
lone horseman appear upon the rim of the plain
opposite it; saw him wave his robe, and knew
well the meaning of the sign. Almost at once
he was joined by a large number of riders,
fifty or more, and down the slope they came,
quirting their horses and shouting their Crow
war song.





In Glacier National Park


'My brave ones,' cried. No Chief, 'onward to
the timber! Shoot with true aim; waste not a
bullet or an arrow!'ý
He led them up along the rivetbank, which
for the whole length of the bottom dropped
straight down 'into the water. So it was that
the crows could attack on only one side of
them. On they came, riding fast, shooting as
they charged down past the scattered line of
the runners, who, pausing, returned the fire.
Two of the riders went down, and one of the
Pikuni, shot through his body, staggered to
the edge of the cutbank, and, crying out; 'I
die,, but they shall not get my hair,' dropped
into the deep, swift river.
Wheeling their horses about the Crows
charged up past the line of No Chief and his
men, and down past it again, and up and
down., but never very close in. Riding fast,
they could not shoot with true aim. Now and
then one of their bullets or arrows found its
mark and a Pikuni warrior fell, to rise no more;
but more often, one of the Crow force was.59





Signposts of Adventure


killed or wounded. Steadily-the Pikuni kept
on toward the timber. As they neared it, the
Crows gathered at its edge for one last charge,
came on swiftly, and one, their chief, turned
out from the line of them and rode straight at
No Chief, who, constantly encouraging his
men to make a good fight and to press on
toward the timber, had not once fired his gun.
But now he stopped, took steady aim at the
Crow chief, and down he fell from his horse
when the gun boomed, rolled over and over,
got upon his knees, gasped, and tumbled
forward upon his face, a dead man. With a
last and fast run, the Pikuni passed the body
and gained the shelter of the timber.
Cried No Chief: 'Brother! Where are you?'
'Here, and unhurt,' Little Antelope answered from the opposite side of a thick stand
of willows. And just then a Crow bullet struck
him in his breast and he fell and died. Those
near him called to No Chief; he came and
knelt beside the body and mourned. 'Little
Brother,' he said, 'it is all my fault that you,
6o





In Glacier National Park
and those down there along the river-bank, are
dead. Oh, why, why did I not heed the warning of my visions!'
At that, he sprang up and stared out into
the open. The Crows, down along the riverbank, were beginning to take up their dead
and wounded, and scalp and despoil the
Pikuni dead. 'They shall not count coup upon
our dead!' he cried, and, as one gone crazy., ran
from the timber out to the horse of the Crow
chief, and easily caught it, for its long bridle
rope had become entangled in a bunch of
sagebrush and it was running around and
around in an ever-narrowing circle. He then
took up the lance of the dead chief, and.,
mounting- the animal and roaring like a mad
grizzly, rode straight down at the scattered
Crows.
Said one of his party: 'He surely has gone
crazy. We must try to save him!'I
"Or die with him!' said another.
And at that, they came out from the timber and followed him as fast as they could run.
61





Signposts of Adventure


The nearest Crow was down off his horse,
counting coup upon one of the dead Pikuni.
He sprang up, fired a useless shot, and No
Chief lanced him through his breast; and rode
on at the others, roaring louder than ever,
heedless of the shots that they fired at him,
thrusting, thrusting with his lance, sinking it
deep in Crow breasts and backs. Two he
killed; another; and still another. The rest
fled before him, down the bottom and up the
steep point of plain at its lower end, and over it
and out of sight. Then, as he rode up the rocky
slope, his horse suddenly went very lame and
he left it and came back and joined the
survivors of his party, who at once began
carrying their nine dead to the little grove at
the upper end of the bottom, there to bury
them. A tenth one was Little Antelope, and
No Chief would accept no assistance in preparing the body for its last resting-place.
Wrapping it in several blankets, he carried it
to the upper end of the grove, and there lashed
it firmly upon a platform of poles which he
6:z





In Glacier National Park


built in the spreading branches of a large
cottonwood tree. And then, sitting beneath
it, he mourned. His men went to him, told
him to take heart, for he had himself killed
five of the enemy, and all together there were
seventeen Crows dead out there in the bottom.
He replied that the death of ten times that
many could not repay him for the loss of his
brother, his dearly loved brother, dead through
his own fault,, his disregard of his revealing
visions. They urged. that they should leave
that place at once before the defeated party of
Crows could go to their camp, probably somewhere near, and return with all the warriors of
the tribe to wipe them out to the last man.
Slowly he arose, took up his weapons, and,
looking up into the tree, said sadly: 'Brother,
dead by my own fault, I go, but I shall return
to you.'
No Chief was a wise man; very cunning in
the ways of war. He now led his party up into
the next bottom of the river, and there upon
one of its rocky points they made small rafts of
63





Signposts of Adventure
driftwood, piled their weapons and clothing
upon them, and swimming and pushing, they
crossed to the south shore, where they tore
apart the rafts, scattering the pieces naturally
along it, and then concealed themselves in a
large grove. While crossing the river, the swift
current had carried them quite a long way
down it, so that they were straight across from
the scene of their fight. Soon after Sun had
passed the middle of the blue, they saw a
multitude of Crows ride down into the bottom;
saw the men make a quick charge through the
little grove, and then scatter out to search for
the vanished Pikuni, the while the mourning
women gathered around their dead, wrapped
the bodies in robes, and prepared to haul them
away upon travois, for burial elsewhere. Up
the valley and down it rode the Crow fighters,
and found no least sign of the trail of their
enemy; and, rejoining the wailing women,
they all rode up out of the valley, toward the
north.
Came night and No Chief and his men went
64





In Glacier National Park


south and east, and some days later discovered
a small camp of Crows in the valley of the
Bighorn River., They entered it that night,
took many of the fast buffalo horses tied close
to the lodges, and safely got away--- withthe
When No Chief arrived home from this
raid, he was so thin, so worn and sad that his
women hardly knew him. All through the
following winter he mourned for his brother,
and in the New Grass moon of spring he told
his women that he was going alone on a long
journey, and that they must depend upon his
relatives and theirs, for meat and other things,
until he returned. Came night, and on foot he
struck out south from camp.
A moon, two moons passed, and then, early
in the-next moon, No Chief appeared one day,
driving a fine band of horses and riding a big
black stallion. As he came into camp, it was
seen that he carried a coup stick to which were
attached four fresh scalps. He even had a fine
saddle, and tied to it were several painted and
fringed leather sacks, one of them quite large.
65





Signposts of Adventure
'Oh, Chief! Those horses, those scalps, and
other things, from what tribe are your takings?'
one asked.
'Crow. All Crow belongings,' he replied.
And at that the people crowded around,
shouting his name, praising him for his
bravery as they followed him to his lodge. His
women came out and cried and sang as they
embraced him. They started to untie the sacks
attached to his saddle, and he cried out to
them quickly: 'No! That large sack, do not
touch it, do not ever touch it! I alone shall
take care of it.' And taking it off, he carried it
into the lodge and attached it to a pole at the
back of his couch.
"What is in that sack?' his sits-beside-him
woman asked, later in the day, when he was
fed and rested.
'My brother!' he shortly replied.
'What? Have you gone crazy? I asked you
what that sack contains.'
"And I told you. My brother, Little Antelope, is in it, all of his bones, every one of them.'
66





In Glacier National Park


The women cried out with fear.
'Carry it away; to the timber or elsewhere,
and leave it!lI cannot, cannot live where is so
fearful a thing!' the y oungest woman said.
"Nor can iI! At once remove it!', said her
elder sister.
'Then go, both of you, and never return. So
long as I live, my dear brother remains with
me!' No Chief replied, and looked inquiringly
at-the eldest of the three sisters, his sits-besidehim woman.
'Your brother., so kind., so gentle he was in
life. Dear, he surely will not harm us,' she
softly said.
The two women ran from the lodge, and
from a distance. watched it during the remainder of the day. Their man did not carry
out from it the thing that they feared. Came
night, and they returned and sat down each
upon her couch, each of them trembling. Their
fearless sister set food before them, but they
could not eat. They passed a sleepless night.
Morning came; they- had not been har med.
67





Signposts of Adventure


Little by little they lost their fear of the sack of
bones, and in time were as happy and contented, there with their brave man, as they
ever had been.
When camp was moved, No Chief himself
took care of that sacred sack of bones, and
when the lodge was set up, again tied it to a
pole above his couch. Looking up at it frequently, he would say: 'Younger brother,
through my fault you are there, instead of
sitting here beside me, alive and happy. But
you shall be still further revenged upon those
who killed you. I am again going to war
against the Crows.' And then, a few days
later, he would lead a large party of men
against that tribe, and always they would
return with many horses and scalps that they
had taken from the enemy. Very dearly the
Crows paid for killing Little Antelope.
As time went on, No Chief more and more
talked to that sack of bones, just as though it
were his brother alive and well there in the
lodge. He told it the news of the camp; asked
68





V


H
z
0
U
0
z,- f i










In Glacier National Park


its advice about different matters; and actually
seemed to get replies to his question. Whenever he did this, people coming to visit and
smoke with him stopped at the doorway of the
lodge, and shivering, turned away.
In his old age, when he sickened and knew
that he was about to die, he said to his sitsbeside-him woman: 'You have ever been good
and true to me. I ask one last favor of you:
Bury my brother with me.'
'Yes,' she sobbed.
It was so done. His women, the whole
Pikuni tribe, mourned long over the passing of
that brave, that kind and generous chief.
20. Punak'iksi Otsitfum'iso. Cutbank Pass.
This pass was much used by the Salish and
Kutenai tribes in their journeyings to and fro
across the great range.
21. Stum'ik  Oksokwi' Istfiki. Bull Trail
Mountain.
Bull (buffalo) Trail was a noted warrior in
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Signposts of Adventure
the long-ago time when the tribes of the Blackfeet Confederacy were driving the Crows
south to the Yellowstone. He first became
noted for his bravery when, inra battle with
the Crows, he saved a close friend from being
killed by them. The friend, Thunder Chief,
was surrounded by a number of the enemy and
badly wounded, when Bull Trail charged into
their midst, breaking their heads with his war
club, and, pulling his wounded friend up onto
his horse, bore him safely out beyond the line
of battle.
Later on, when the Pikuni were encamped
upon South Bear River, the Musselshell River,
buffalo became scarce, and Bull Trail led out in
quest.of them eight lodges of his close friends,
members of the Seizer Band of the All Friends
Society. It was past the middle of the day
when they left the river and rode off to the
south. Late in the day, they discovered a herd
of buffalo, successfully ran it, and then set up
their lodges beside the many kills. As they
were skinning and butchering the fat cows,
70





In Glacier National Park


they discovered a large number of riders
approaching from the South, and, upon examining them with his telescope, Bull Trail
saw that they were a war party of Crows, all
of a hundred men; and he had but twenty-two
fighting men. The women and children, sure
that they were soon to be killed, began to cry.
He Silenced them; told them and his men that
he had thought of a plan by which he might
save them, and., calling to his sits-beside-him
woman to follow with his pipe and tobacco
sack, went out alone to meet the enemy, making the peace sign. as they neared him.
The Crows did not know what to make of
this; perhaps they thought that, as this man
and his few friends were in their power, they
would play with him, tease him, before making
their big killing. They drew up in front of Bull
Trail, and, when he asked them to smoke with
him, their chief, with a queer smile., replied
that they would do so. They got off their
horses and sat down before him. He filled his
pipe, and then, laying it aside, signed to the
7'





Signposts of Adventure
Crow chief: 'I know your heart. You intend
to kill me and these few men, women, and
children in my small camp. I say to you now,
don't you do it! Why not? Because Sun is my
protector; if you kill me and mine, he will
destroy you and yours. You do not believe
that - well, I will prove to you how near I am
to him.'
Now, upon his way out to meet the Crows,
Bull Trail had unscrewed the big end glass of
his telescope, and had his woman put it in his
tobacco sack and hide the telescope under her
robe. This instrument was the first one of its
kind ever owned by the Pikuni, so Bull Trail
felt sure that it was new to the Crows, that
they knew nothing of its power. He took the
end glass from the sack, his pipe from the
ground, and, holding the glass in the right
position toward Sun, began to draw upon the
pipestem. Smoke soon curled up from the
bowl, and then he drew in and blew to the
sky a great mouthful of it, and saw the eyes of
the Crows grow wide as they stared at it.
72





In Glacier National Park


One and all, they flinched back as though they
had been struck with a great whip. He blew
smoke to the sky again; to the ground; to the
four world directions; and then offered the
pipe to the Crow chief. In fear the man drew
back from it and spoke to his followers: as one
man, they sprang up, mounted their horses,
and rode away up the valley of the little creek,
and disappeared in a small grove of cottonwoods.
Bull Trail and his woman went back to
camp. His friends surrounded him, and, when
they learned how he had put fear into the
hearts of the Crows, they said that that fear
would not last, and proposed that they at once
pack up and return to the big camp on South
Bear River. Bull Trail was against it. 'No.
We must not show fear. Should we do so, it
would be the end for us,' he replied. He put
his telescope together and with it saw that the
Crows had built a fire in the little grove, a nd
would likely remain there during the night.
He waited until it was dark, and then sent one
7:3





Signposts of Adventure
of his friends to call out all of the men of the
Pikuni who were able to fight. They arrived
before morning, and concealed themselves
and their horses in the brush back of Bull
Trail's few lodges. As day was breaking, the
Crows were discovered advancing toward the
little camp. When they had come quite near
and were about to charge into it, the Pikuni
warriors mounted their horses and rushed out
upon them; and began a killing that did not
end until the last one of the enemy was dead.
So was it that Bull Trail became a great and
honored chief of the Pikuni.:2z. Ikotsi' Istfiki. Red Mountain.
So named because of its prevailing color.
23. Siko Kaiyo Istfiki. Black Bear Mountain.
Spot Mountain.
Black Bear was a Pikuni warrior who,
prior to 1832, led a party of his friends into
the Far South. They returned a year later,
with many horses and weapons which they
74





In Glacier National Park


had taken in raids upon the Spanish - Mexican - settlers of that country.
24. Kutonap'i Istiki. Old Kutenai Mountain. Basin Mountain.
Old Kutenai was a Siksika - Blackfeet
- chief whom Maximilian met at Fort Mackenzie.
25. Kai'yi Stoan Istuki. Bear Knife Mountain.
Bear Knife, born about 18oo, was a noted
Pikuni warrior. He was killed by a party
of Crows, in 1853.
26. Ponoka' fJtsini Istuki.  Elk Tongue
Mountain.
Elk Tongue, of the Pikuni tribe, was noted
for going alone upon raids against the enemy.
He is mentioned in Maximilian's Journal.
27. Nioks'kai Itfktai Istuki. Three Rivers
Mountain. Triple Divide Mountain.
So named because from   it flow waters
75





Signposts of Adventure


running to the Saskatchewan, the Missouri,
and the Pacific Ocean.
28. Nitum' Ispitsi Istfiki. Tall Man Mountain. Norris Mountain.
Tall Man was Henry Norris, a white man
who, in the long-ago, married one of Chief
Running Crane's daughters, and became a
member of the Pikuni tribe. He lived for years
at the outlet of Upper Saint Mary's Lake, and
was a noted mountaineer and hunter. He was
the first white man, after Rising Wolf and his
family, to see Iceberg Lake. He died in 1918.
29. Nitai'na Istfiki. Lone Chief Mountain.
Mount James.
Lone (or Only) Chief, was a Pikuni chief,
and the first signer of the treaty that the
United States made with the Blackfeet, and
other tribes, in 1855. This treaty, the so-called
"Stevens Treaty,' was made on the Missouri
River, at the mouth of the Judith River, in
October, 1855, and was a most momentous
occasion. Gathered there were all the tribes
76





In Glacier National Park


of the Blackfeet Confederacy, including the
Gros Ventres, and delegations of Kalispels,
Pend'Oreilles, Kutenai, and Nez Perces, from
the west side of the Rockies. In due time the
Government officials, Governor Isaac I. Stevens, Commissioner A. Cumming, and others,
arrived on one of the steamboats of the American Fur Company, and after some days the
terms of the treaty were agreed upon. It
specifically acknowledged that the Blackfeet
tribes, including their allies, the Gros Ventres,
were sole owners of all the vast territory
bounded on the north by the Canadian line,
on the south by the Yellowstone River, on the
west by the summit of the Rocky Mountain
range, and on the east by a north-and-south
line intersecting the junction of the Missouri
River and Milk River; provided, however,
that the west-side tribes should have the right
to hunt upon the plains between the Musselshell River and the Yellowstone River. The
treaty was ratified by act of Congress in the
following year, 1856.
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Signposts of Adventure


When the treaty at the mouth of the Judith
was signed, Governor Stevens distributed
among the Indians gathered there a whole
steamboat load of supplies. The recipients
curiously examined them: there were sacks of
rice, coffee, bacon, and sugar. They kept the
sugar, scattered to the four winds the contents
of the other sacks, and joyously went their
various ways, happy in the thought that the
whites could never take from them their vast
and rich hunting-ground. Some of the Indians
who signed the treaty lived to learn that, without their consent or knowledge, our Government had broken it, as will be related farther
on.
30. Nioks'kai Otski'na Istfiki. Three Horns
Mountain. Amphitheater Mountain.
In the long-ago, when upon a raid against
the west-side tribes, Three Horns, a member
of the Pikuni tribe, killed a Nez Perc6, captured the man's woman and a large band of
horses, and brought them home. The woman
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In Glacier National Park


lived happily with him, and never had any
desire to leave the buffalo plains and return to
her people.
31. Punak'iksi Pahwakwi'. Cutbank Ridge.
32. Ai'yaknmikwl. Separated Mountain.
Split Mountain.
33. Mekotsi'pitan Kokwito'. Red Eagle Ice.
Red Eagle Glacier.
This glacier was named for Red Eagle, one
of the most noted of the old-time Sun priests,
or medicine men, of the Pikuni tribe. He was
owner of the very ancient Thunder Bird
medicine pipe, believed to be greatly favored
by the Sun. In the spring, when the first thunder of the season was heard, he called to his
lodge other Sun priests of the tribe, to aid him
in an especial ceremony with his pipe, during
which he prayed the Thunder Bird to bring to
the country plenty of rain-storms, so that
there would be, later on, a great abundance of
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Signposts of Adventure


the various kinds of berries, for the people to
gather and dry for winter use.
Red Eagle was a youth when Fort Piegan
was built at the mouth of the Marias River, in
1831, and he lived to see the Great Northern
Railway built across the site of it. He died in
1897, and was buried just east of the old
piskan (buffalo trap) in the valley of Two
Medicine Lodges River, and a mile from Holy
Family Mission. I was a member of his clan,
the Inuik'siks (Small Robes) and therefore
very intimate with him. Wonderful tales of
adventure he told me; tales of far raids against
enemy tribes; reminiscences of the early traders in the country, Kipp, Culbertson, Dawson; and of days when that heroic Jesuit,
Father de Smet camped with him.
34. %.Stum'ik  Otokan' Istfki. Bull Head
Mountain. Mount Logan.
Bull Head was a Pikuni, and in his prime
was the chief of the Mut'siks (Braves) Band
of the All Friends Society of the tribe. He is
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In Glacier National Park


chiefly remembered for his bravery in saving
from annihilation by the Snake Indians a war
party that he led. At the foot of the Buttesof-Odorous-Pines, somewhere in Wyoming, he
and his party were surprised by a large number
of the Snakes, and were obliged to retreat to
the top of one of the buttes. From that eminence they saw in the distance the camp of the
enemy, several hundred lodges, and one of
their attackers hurrying to it for reinforcements. Said Bull Head then: 'My children,
those who surround us are ten to our one, but
we have got to fight them now, or be wiped
out, later on, all of us. So I say to you
just this: Call upon Sun to aid you and follow me.'
Now, Bull Head was a Sun priest as well as a
great warrior, and was therefore privileged to
use for various purposes the hide and fur of
the nita'po kai'yo (real bear), the grizzly. At
that time his wrap was a well-tanned grizzly
robe, secured to his person with a belt around
his waist. With shield upon his left arm, knife
81





Signposts of Adventure.
in his right hand, and bow-and-arrows case
upon his back, he. waited for his men to finish
their prayers, and then, roaring like an angry
grizzly, he led them- out against the enemy,
springing upon them, knifing them, almost at
once stabbing -five of them to death. And so
fierce was he in his onslaught, so dreadful of
appearance, just like a terrible, mad grizzly,
that the Snakes turned and fled down the steep
butte and never stopped running until they
arrived in their camp. They had lost nineteen
of their number in the fight, and not one of the
Pikuni was even slightly wounded. Said Bull
Head: 'Well, there is plenty of mourning down
in that camp. But now the Snakes will carefully guard their horses, and they are too many
for us to attack; we cannot wipe out the
whole tribe of them. We will go on farther
south.'
Some days later, they raided a camp of
Bighorn. Eaters (Bannocks) and secured a great
number of horses', and in due time arrived
safely home with. them.
8z





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0
0
z
C)
H
C)
C)










In Glacier National Park


35. Siksika' Kokwito.' Blackfeet Ice. Blackfeet Glacier.
The United States Geological Survey named
this the Blackfeet Glacier; an appropriate
name for this, the largest glacier in the Park.
The Kutenai Indians, however, have a far
better, far more romantic name for it, as will
appear in the list of names of the west side of
the Park.
36. Mount Jackson.
Named for one of the bravest, most loved
and respected members of the Pikuni, long
before this region was made a National Park.
Siksikai'kwan (Blackfeet Man) was William
Jackson, son of James Jackson, an old engage
of the American Fur Company, and Amelie,
daughter of Hugh Monroe, or Rising Wolf.
William Jackson was born in Fort Benton,
in 1858, and in his early youth roamed the
Saskatchewan-Upper Missouri plains and
mountains with his grandfather, and his
uncles, John and Francois Monroe. In 1870,
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.Signposts of Adventure


with his father, mother, and brother Robert,
he went to Fort Buford, and a little later, boy
though he was, enlisted as a scout in the
United States Army. Remaining in the service,
he was with General Custer in his Black Hills
Expedition of 1874, and in the later war with
the Sioux and Cheyennes. He was one of the
scouts who, on the evening before that fateful
day of June 25, 1876, warned General Custer
that, with his small force, he should not attempt an attack upon the camp of the hostiles, numbering as they did something like
three thousand well-armed warriors. But
Custer would not heed their advice - and on
the following day, heý detailed the scouts to go
with Major Reno's command, and himself
set out.upon his last ride. When Reno began
his retreat before an overwhelming number of
the hostiles, Jackson, Lieutenant De Rudio,
the interpreter Frank Girard, and private
soldier O'Neil, were cut off from it, and lay
in a small patch of rosebrush all that day and
a part of the following night, constantly sur84





In Glacier National Park


rounded by the hostiles. In the darkness of
the night, Jackson stripped the bodies of some
dead Sioux, and, dressing themselves in the
blankets and leggings and moccasins, the
four set out to rejoin their command, at bay
upon the bluffs of the opposite side of the
river; and after repeated escapes from the
surrounding hostiles, they managed to do so.
After the defeat of Custer, Jackson scouted for
General Miles, and rendered him valuable aid
in subduing the various bands of the Sioux
and Cheyennes, and later, in the pursuit and
capture of Chief Joseph and his Nez Perc5
warriors. From that time until the buffalo
were exterminated, in 1883, Jackson was engaged in the fur trade. He scouted for the
Canadian North-West Mounted Police during theRiel Rebellion, and came to the Blackfeet Indian Reservation to live with his grandfather Hugh Monroe and his Pikuni relatives.
He died from tuberculosis, in I902, on his
ranch on Cutbank River.
From 1879, when I met him on the Judith
85





Signposts of Adventure
River, until he died, William Jackson and I
were almost inseparable companions. We spent
far more time camping, hunting, fishing in
the mountains, than we did upon our ranches.
He was a fine story-teller, and from long
association with army officers, with whom he
was ever a favorite, he obtained a wonderful
command of the English language and all the
manners of a gentleman, which he was in
every sense of the word. And he was a gentleman by birth; he had in him the blood of the
Scotch Monroes; the De la Roches, an aristocratic family of French 6migres; the Jacksons,
of American Revolutionary stock; and of
Lone Walker and Fox Woman, of the best
families of the Pikuni.
During long winter evenings at our ranches
and around our camp-fires in the mountains,
year after year, I heard My friend tell over and
over his wonderful adventures, from his boyhood days in Fort Benton to the close of the
Indian wars. The result of it all is the story of
the life of William Jackson, which will be one
86







Copyright by llit
TWIN BUTTE PEAKS IN CUTBANK VALLEY


-










In Glacier National Park


of the Houghton Mifflin Company books of
1927.
37. Punak'iksi Itufktai. Cutbank River.
So named by the Blackfeet tribes on account of the. cliff-like banks along its lower
course.
38. Kinufk'si-sakta Pahwakwi'. Little River
Ridge. Milk River Ridge.
See following name.
39. Kinuik'si-sakta. Little River. Named by
the whites Milk River.
Only the south fork of this stream rises
within the border of the Park, the two other
forks heading in springs and swamps along the
east side of the Hudson's Bay Divide. The
Blackfeet tribes might well have named this
Long Little River, for it meanders for more
than three hundred miles across the plains
before emptying into the Missouri. The Blackfeet had a Milk River, however. It is the
87





Signposts of Adventure
Tansy River of Lewis and Clark, the Teton
River of the American Fur Company.
40. Onistai'-Pokah' Istuki. Wonderful Child
Mountain. White Calf Mountain.
The earliest interpreters of the Blackfeet
tribes language, engages of the Hudson's Bay
Company and the American Fur Company,
gave the meaning of Onistai'-Pokah' as White
Calf, albino buffalo calf; and unthinking, careless interpreters have ever since so translated
it. Actually, onistai' is the Blackfeet word for
wonderful or miraculous; and pokah' means
child, and nothing else.
The man for whom this mountain was named
was the last one of the long line of great chiefs
of the Pikuni. When born, about 1835, a Sun
priest christened him Mahmin' (Feather) and
under that name he was one of the signers
of the Treaty of 1855, concluded at the mouth
of the Judith River. The interpreters for
the treaty, however, mistakenly informed the
Government officials that he was a member of
88





In Glacier National Park


the Kai'na, or Blood, tribe. While still a very
young man, he became noted for his bravery,
for his intelligence, and for his kindness to the
widows and orphans and to the old and poor.
In 1865, while the Pikuni were encamped north
of Fort Benton, on the Marias River, he was
with a number of hunters who discovered a
war party of forty Crees sneaking southward
over the plain. The enemy at once took refuge
upon a small hill that is a mile north of what is
now Concord Station of the Great Northern
Railway, and, furiously digging up the light
soil with their knives, they pretty well entrenched themselves while the Pikuni hunters
were still at some distance from them. The
latter were only eighteen men, too few to
attack the Crees in their strong position. They
sent one of their number to camp for reeanforcements, and, dismounting, waited for
them to arrive. But that waiting became irksome to Mahmin', and he proposed to his
companions that they surround the little hill,
ascend it as far as possible, and try to kill
"89





Signposts of Adventure


some of the enemy behind their breastworks.
Leaving one of their number in care of their
horses, Mahmin' and the others soon encircled
the hill, and, under cover of the sage and
greasewood brush, began ascending it like so
many snakes; going forward a few inches at a
time; making pauses of long duration. After a
long time, Mahmin' saw a fold of a blanket
slowly rise above a little bank of freshly
thrown-up earth. He carefully sighted his
gun at it, fired, and with a wild shriek the
man under the blanket sprang up, pitched forward, quivered, and died. At that, several of
the Crees fired at Mahmin', or rather at the
brush in which he lay concealed. After reloading his gun, he crawled a little way to the
right, and then again up toward the breastworks. Several of his companions now and
then exchanged shots with Crees. After a
time one of the Pikuni was killed; and then
another. The rest of them made no further
attempt to ascend the hill; it was too dangerous work, they decided, all of them but
90





In Glacier National Park


Mahmin'. Before starting to surround and
ascend the hill, they had agreed that each of
them should carry a stone with which to
mark his progress, the one placing his marker
nearest the enemy would, of course, be the
bravest of them all. Mahmin' alone of them
now continued his slow and. snake-like advance, at intervals firing at the enemy and'
being fired at. To those of his companions
who were able to watch his progress, it seemed
that Sun was protecting him. During the long
day, steadily, slowly, surely, he neared the
enemy breastworks, and shrieks of pain and
fear that followed his shots were proof that he
had killed or wounded five of them, up to the
time that the great crowd of the Pikuni arrived from camp. There was then a grand
rush to the top of the hill, and the Crees were
almost at once wiped out. And when it was all
over, it was found that the stone marker of
Mahmin' lay but thirty steps from the enemy
breastworks, and that he had actually killed
five of the war party. The stone lies there to
9'





Signposts of Adventure


this day. Many are the pilgrimages that young
Pikuni men have made to it, to see with their
own eyes the scene of the great warrior's
brave act, and to vow that they would themselves be brave in battle with the enemy.
Soon after this killing of the Cree war
party, the Pikuni built their annual great lodge
for the sun; and when, during the four days'
ceremony, Mahmin' counted his coups before
the great gathering of the people, the Sun
priests honored him with a new name: Onistai'-Pokah'. Then, as time went on, he became of more and more prominence in the
councils of the tribe; and when, in 1873,
Chief Big Lake died, Onistai'-Pokah' was, by
common consent, named head chief of the
tribe. He died in Washington, D.C., in 1903,
while there upon matters pertaining to the
welfare of his tribe.
This man's greatest service to his people, and
and to the whites as well, occurred in March,
188o. In the fall of 1879, the Pikuni, and the
Kai'na, from Canada, went into camp on the
92





In Glacier' National Park
Judith River, at the mouth of Warm Spring
Creek, there to winter and hunt. Buff alo were
very plentiful upon the plains, and there were
countless herds of deer and elk in the near
mountains. With our bull train, several fourhorse teams and wagons, all heavily loaded
with goods, and our employees, Joseph Kipp
and I went out ahead of the Indians, and built
a small post at the junction of the two creeks.
We had agreed to do this., in order to keep the
two tribes supplied with the various articles of.trade goods that they would need during the
winter. 'A few miles above us,. on Warm
Spring Creek, T.. C.. Power & Brother, of
Fort Benton., had recently established a cattle
ranch, at that time the only ranch on the Montana plains south of the Missouri, Its manager
was one 'Governor' Brooks, a fiery-tempered
German who was furious when we moved into
that which he said was 'My cattle country, by
Gott! You fellers got no right here!'
In November, when fur became prime, the
Ininsbga   iliggreat numbers of buffalo,,
93





Signposts of Adventure
and tanning the hides into soft robes for their
own use and for trade for our goods, and they
continued this during the winter. They reported now and then that they saw numbers of
cattle running with the buffalo.
In March came one day a detachment of
mounted infantry from Fort Benton, commanded by Lieutenant Crouse, who informed
us that he had Orders to move the Indians
north to their agency on Badger Creek, up
near the Canadian line, where T. C. Power &
Brother had a trading store. At Crouse's request, we called a council of chiefs in our living
quarters and, when Kipp had interpreted to
them the object of the soldiers' coming, they
were at first so angry that they were speechless.
Finally, Onistai'-Pokah" said-to the Lieutenant:
'This is our own country. The Great Father
has no right to order us to leave this part of it,
and move north to our agency, where are now
no buffalo.'
94





In Glacier National Park
'But it is not your country, this south of the
Missouri country,' the Lieutenant replied.
'You lie!' roared Onistai'-Pokah'. 'At the
mouth of this river, when I was of age twenty
winters, we made a treaty with your Great
Father. On the paper of that treaty, it was
written that we own all of this country, from
the country of the Red Coats south to the
Yellowstone River, and from the Backbone-ofthe-World east to the mouth of the Yellowstone. The Great Father's men signed that
paper; we signed it. I myself, in my twentieth
winter, I signed it.'
'Yes. But afterward, one of our Great
Fathers took from you all of this south of the
Missouri country; and a later Great Father
took some of your north of the Missouri
country. The south line of your country is
now the Marias River.'
At that, the gathering of chiefs stared at
the Lieutenant in dumb amazement. And at
last, Onistai'-Pokah' said to Kipp:" 'Is it true
that the soldier chief says? Have the Great
95





Signposts of Adventure


Fathers he mentions really stolen from us the
greater part of our country?'
'They have stolen it, as he says,' Kipp replied.
'Then let us kill these soldiers! These and
all others who may come against us! Let us
keep our buffalo country, or die all of us trying
to keep it!' cried Bear Chief, a young Pikuni
warrior, and then ran out into camp, calling
upon all men of the All Friends Society to
arm themselves and get ready to attack the
soldiers.
At that, Kipp began urging Onistai'-Pokah'
to quiet the warriors. He explained that to kill
the soldiers would be useless, as the Great
Father would then send thousands of soldiers
against us, and we should be wiped out to
the last man, the last woman, child, babe in
arms.
'It is as our true friend and brother says,'
Onistai'-Pokah' said to the other,chiefs.
'Come, let us hurry to camp and make our
children lay aside their weapons.'
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In Glacier National Park


Many of the chiefs, particularly several of
the Kai'na tribe, were reluctant to do that, but
in the end, Onistai'-Pokah' had his way about
it, and the hundreds of fierce and angry warriors were dissuaded from attacking the soldiers. More councils were held, and at last
came a day when, escorted by the troops, the
Indians broke camp and trekked north, out of
the buffalo country. Hundreds and hundreds
of their poor and overloaded horses died by the
way. But they did not go to their agency: they
went to camp and to hunt antelope at and
around Fort Conrad, our trading-post on the
Marias River, and we, not the agency traders, got the remainder of their robes and
furs.
I learned that by an executive order of
President Grant, in 1873, and an executive
order of President Hayes, in 1878, and without
the knowledge or consent of the Blackfeet
tribes, or their allies, the Gros Ventres, their
vast hunting-ground had been ruthlessly taken
fromuthem. And now, after all these years,
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Signposts of Adventure


the case of the Blackfeet versus the United
States, is in the Court of Claims. Let us hope
that they may get at least one sixth of the
$60,ooo,ooo worth of land which they lost by
our Government's breaking of the Treaty of
1855 -41. Divide Mountain.
The Blackfeet name for this is 'Mountainfrom-which-the-Water-goes-to-the-Behind-Direction-and-to-the-South-Direction'; so long
a name in their language that we mark it
as it is upon the white men's map, Divide
Mountain.
42. Kutenai' Istfiki. Kutenai Mountain.
In the summer of 1885, when camping at
the foot of Upper Saint Mary's Lake with a
band of Kutenai Indians, one of them who
could speak Blackfeet, said to me, one day:
"Saddle your horse, go with me, and we will
kill some fat meat.' He took me to a fine lick
upon the side of this mountain, where we
98





In Glacier National Park


made a killing of three bighorn rams. I therefore named it the Kutenai Lick, and the mountain, Kutenai Mountain.
43. Divide Creek.
The Blackfeet name for this stream is the
same as that for Divide Mountain.
44. Nitsi' Pahwakwi'. Real Ridge. Hudson's
Bay Divide.
The Blackfeet realized that this ridge was
the high point between the waters of the Saskatchewan, and those of the Missouri, and so
named it the Real, or Only, Ridge.
45. Mekotsi'pitan  lye'tfiktai.  Red  Eagle
Creek.
Named for the Sun priest, Red Eagle, as
under the heading of Red Eagle Ice (Red
Eagle Glacier).
46. Makotsi'pitan O'muksikimik. Red Eagle
Lake.
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Signposts of Adventure
47. Mekotsi'pitan Istfiki. Red Eagle Mountain.
48. Kinuiks'-Inah Istuiki. Little Chief Mountain.
Little Chief was a great warrior of the
Inuk'siks, the Small Robes Clan of the
Pikuni. In 1865, or thereabouts, when running buffalo, his horse fell and he was trampled to death by the great herd.
49. Isapa'ki Iye'tfiktai. Crow Woman Creek.
Virginia Creek.
Crow Woman, as she was called by the
Blackfeet tribes, was really a Minnetaree.
When about sixteen years of age, during a
fight between her people and the Crows, she
was captured by a warrior of the latter tribe,
and became one of his women. Twenty years
later, a large war party of the Kai'na, or Blood,
tribe of the Blackfeet, attacked a hunting
party that she was with, she was captured by
one of the Bloods, and became his fourth
woman. Although this man treated her very
I00





tpO:


EAST FROM LITTLE CHIEF PASS


I'lw










In Glacier National Park


kindly, she was very unhappy in his lodge,
and was contemplating committing suicide
whenI in Fort Benton., she met Good Eagle
Tail, the Mandan. mother of my friend the
late Joseph Kipp. The two had been friends
in their girlhood days, in the villages of the
Mandans and the Minnetarees, and Good
Eagle Tail. lost no time in inducing the Blood
to free his captive. From that time and for
many years, to the time of her death', in 1907,
the two women were inseparable companions.
Crow Woman never had a child of her own.
She adopted two young girls, orphans of the
Blood tribe., and both of them died of tuberculosis, to her great and lasting sorrow. From
the time I first met her, in 1877, she was. a
mother to me. All. the members of the Black-.
feet tribes mourned her passing; none. of them
more. than I, her white son.
Said Curly Bear, just now: 'This white
woman, this Virginia, for whom the white
map-makers named this creek, and its falls,
who is she? A chief-woman, perhaps?'
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Signposts of Adventure
CWho knows! There be ten thousand white
women of that name!' Guardipee replied.
'Ah! And in all the world there was never
but the one Crow Woman! She of pure and
generous heart! Loved and honored by all us
People of the Plains!' the old man grievedly
muttered.
50. Sap'iachis O'muksikimik. Mirror Pond.
5i. Is'okwiomakan Istfuiki. Heivy Runner
Mountain. Citadel Mountain.
Heavy Runner was one of the bravest bighearted chiefs of the Pikuni who ever lived,
and at the same time he was a true friend to
the whites. In the fall of i868, when he led his
tribe to hunt buffalo on Milk River, just north
of the Sweetgrass Hills, he had his women set
up his lodge about a half-mile from the main
camp, telling them that he did not want to be
disturbed by visitors, as he was going to pray
the gods, that evening, to give him a revealing
vision.
102





In Glacier National Park


Refusing to share with his family the evening meal, he smoked and prayed for' the
vision, and had his five women join him in
singing a number of sacred songs. It was late
when the women and children retired. Heavy
Runner went outside, took a last look at his
fast buffalo horses staked close around the
lodge, and then he went to his couch. Soon
after the fire died out, a large war party of
Crees began shooting into the lodge, and,
seizing his Henry rifle and pouch full of cartridges, the chief ran out and fought them,
charging at them like a bear, boasting that he
had the protection of Sun and that they could
not kill him. Actually, he killed five of them
and the rest fled off into the darkness before
the men of the camp could come to his assistance. Though his lodge was riddled by the
bullets and arrows of the Crees, none of the
inmates were killed, one woman getting a
slight wound in the shoulder. Of the many
valuable horses tied around the lodge, only
three were shot down.
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Signposts of Adventure


In the fall of 1869, during a row over family
matters,, Malcolm Clark was killed by relatives
of his Pikuni wife, and the War Department
ordered Major Baker, at Fort Shaw, to take
the field against Black Weasel's band of the
Pikuni., and capture or kill the murderer of
the rancher. My friend Joseph Kipp was at
the time an army scout, and attached to
Baker's command.
At daylight, January 1, 1869, from the edge
of a steep. bank in the valley of the Marias
River, Baker and his men looked down upon a
large camp of the.Pikuni; and as soon as Kipp
saw the painted lodges of the Sun priests, he
told Baker that it. was not Black Weasel's
camp, but that it surely was the camp of
Heavy Runner,, a chief very friendly to the
whites.
Baker's reply to that was to order two sobdiers to stand behind Kipp, and shoot him if he
made any attempt to communicate with the
Indians. He then told his men that, when he
gave the order, they were to begin shooting
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In Glacier National Park
into the lodges of the sleeping Indians and to
keep shooting until all of them were dead.
Then began the greatest slaughter of innocent Indians that ever occurred upon the
Western plains. As. the first deadly volley was
poured into them, Heavy Runner rushed from
his lodge, waving a packet of papers that had
been given him by army officers and fur
traders, testimonials to his friendly attitude
toward the whites. A half-dozen bullets
pierced his body, and he was dead as he
dropped to the ground. The slaughter con-.
tinued. A few, a very few of the Indians took
to the brush and escaped. The soldiers finished
their work by going down into the lodges and
killing the wounded: principally women, children., babes in arms. Then they tried to burn
the dead upon piles of the dismantled lodges,
but they would not burn. They then returned to Fort Shaw, Baker boasting over
his great victory.
So passed Chief Heavy Runner, friend to
the whites of the Upper Missouri country.
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Signposts of Adventure
52. Imut'sit Omita' Istfiki. Almost-a-Dog
Mountain.
The man for whom this mountain was
named was one of the few survivors of the
Baker Massacre. With his father, mother,
wife, and little daughter, he was asleep in his
lodge when the soldiers opened fire upon the
camp. All five of them sprang from their
couches, the father and mother being immediately killed by the bullets tearing into the
lodge. As the three others ran from the lodge,
his wife was killed, and, as Almost-a-Dog
took up his little daughter and started for
the brush, she was shot through the heart,
and he fell with a wound that badly tore the
muscles of his right leg above the knee and
another wound in his right shoulder. However,
he managed to crawl into the brush without
being again struck by the terrific fire of the
soldiers, and, going slowly and painfully on
and on, finally secreted himself in a patch of
very thick willows at the upper end of the
bottom. On the previous day, a number of the
io6





H
z
C)
Ci2
z
C)
fr










In Glacier National Park


younger men of the camp, with a few of their
women, had gone north out upon the plain to
make a big killing of buffalo, and they returned
late in the day to find their relatives murdered,
their camp destroyed. But they found Almosta-Dog and several women and children who
had survived the massacre, and tenderly
cared for them.
Almost-a-Dog was one of the gentlest, kindliest Indians that I ever knew. Crippled for
life by his wounds, he had bitter hatred for
soldiers, but was ever very friendly to all other
whites. His strange name was a very ancient
and honorable one of the Pikuni tribe. It
originated, of course, in a dream of a Sun
priest. Almost-a-Dog died in 1894. His body
rested under the buffalo trap cliffs of Two
Medicine Lodges River, a short distance above
Holy Family Mission.
53. Ahkai'nuskwona Iye'tflktai. Many Chiefs
Gathered River. Saint Mary's River.
This name properly applies to that part of
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Signposts of Adventure
the river below the Saint Mary's Lakes, where,
in the very long-ago, there was a great gathering and council of the chiefs of the Blackfeet
tribes, their allies, the Gros Ventres and
Saksis, and several West-Side tribes.
54. Gunsight Lake.
Named by Dr. George Bird Grinnell, in the
summer of 1890.
55. Gunsight Pass.
Named by Dr. George Bird Grinnell.
56. Gunsight Mountain.
Standing at the east edge of Gunsight Lake,
and looking west through the narrow pass,
Gunsight Mountain juts up at its far end in a
way to remind one of the sight on a rifle barrel.
So was it that Dr. Grinnell most appropriately
named these three topographical features of
the Park.
57. Ahkai'skunufksin Istufki.  Many  Shots
Mountain. Fusillade Mountain.
At the time Gunsight Lake, Gunsight Pass,
io8





In Glacier National Park


and Gunsight Mountain were named, members
of Dr. Grinnell's party climbed this mountain,
and fired countless shots at a band of goats,
without result. Hence its name.
58. Nistsimi O'muksikimiks. Twin Lakes.
59. Pai'ota Oh'tokwi. Flying Woman Falls.
Florence Falls.
Again Guardipee remarked: 'Of white women
named Florence, there are countless thousands.'
'There was never but one Pai'ota, that
brave, virtuous, sacred lodge-builder woman
of our tribe. We give to this falls her name,'
said Curly Bear.
6o. Kinfuk' Suyiap'wikwan   Istufki. Little
Water-White-Man    Mountain.    Reynolds Mountain.
Kinfik' Suyiap'wikwan (Little Water-WhiteMan) was the name that the Blackfeet tribes
gave to Kenneth Mackenzie, who, through
his engage, Berger, induced them to make a
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Signposts of Adventure


treaty of peace with him at Fort Union, in
1831.
In 1821, Kenneth Mackenzie, Joseph Renville, Daniel Lamont, and William Laidlaw,
severed their connections with the North-West
Fur Company of Montreal, and, founding the
Columbia Fur Company, built a trading-post
near the mouth of the Yellowstone River,
which they named Fort Floyd. In 1827, they
sold their interests to the American Fur
Company, and Mackenzie became identified
with it, and built its Fort Union, just above the
mouth of the Yellowstone, in 1828. His treatment of the Blackfeet was so kindly and
generous that they had no little respect and
affection for him. They had two names for the
early traders in the Upper Missouri country:
Water-White-Men, and Big-Knives WhiteMen. It is not remembered why they named
Mackenzie, Little Water-White-Man. Mackenzie conducted affairs at Fort Union with
great pomp and ceremony, as is attested by the.writings of Catlin the artist, and Maximilian,
IIO





4


UJZNMYDVItHPTNtYAX


*                    V
A/I










In Glacier National Park
Prince of Wied, who were his guests in 1832
and 1833. He was frequently called the 'Lord
of the Upper Missouri country.'
61. O'mfiktsisin  Itsi'nita.  Big-Feet was
Killed. Hanging Gardens.
In the long-ago, several hunters of the
Kai'na (Blood) tribe discovered and killed a
large big-feet (caribou) bull at this place.
These animals were so rarely found so far
south, on the east side of the range, that the
place was named after the occurrence.
6z. Tsis'tfuki Pokah' Istuiki. Beaver Child
Mountain. Clements Mountain.
Beaver Child was Alexander Culbertson,
who became the head of the American Fur
Company in the Upper Missouri country upon
the retirement of Kenneth Mackenzie, in 1836.
He entered the employ of the Company in
1834, and was placed in charge of Fort Mackenzie, a few miles above the mouth of the
Marias River, in the autumn of that year.
III





Signposts of Adventure


Several years later, when the Kai'na (Blood)
tribe of the Blackfeet arrived at the fort, to
trade in their winter take of robes and furs, he
fell in love with a very beautiful girl of the
tribe, Natowap' Tsis-Tseksin Ahki (Sacred
Snake Woman). Girls of the Blackfeet tribes
were always closely chaperoned by their
mothers or other female relatives, and several
months passed before Culbertson managed to
get speech with Naitowap' Tsis-Tseksin Ahki
beyond hearing of her guardians. Finding her
alone one day, just outside the trade room, he
asked her if she could care enough for him to
become his woman, and she shyly replied that
she had long been hoping that he would ask
her parents to give her to him.
'You do, then, really care for me?'
She replied only with her eyes, but that was
answer enough. He went at once to his office
and sent an engage for her parents. They
soon came in, and, lighting and passing them
a pipe, he asked them to give him their
daughter.
IIZ2





In Glacier National Park


" She is still too young to have a man,' tbhe
mother quickly replied.
Said the father', after some. thought: 'I am
going to make you prove that you are worthy
to have my daughter. At this time, this moon
of next summer., if you are still without a
woman, that will be evidence that you love her
and she shall then be your woman.'
In vain Culbertson pleaded that the girl and
he loved one another and wanted to become
mates at once.
The father replied: 'I am not of two minds,
two tongues. I have told you the condition
upon which you may have my daughter, and I
keep my word.'
Having finished trading, the Kai'na tribe
moved out upon the plains, but during the
following year kept in close touch with
the fort, and the girl's parents were pleased
that Culbertson remained single and eagerly
awaited the fulfillment of their promise to him.
Two Suns was a powerful', proud, and very
wealthy chief. He ordered his wive~s and"13





Signposts of Adventure
female relatives to prepare for the girl an outfit, a bridal trousseau as one may say, such as
no girl of the plains had ever had before:
numerous gowns of soft buckskin, beadembroidered, quill-embroidered, strung with
elk tushes; moccasins of dainty shape and
brilliant embroidery; snow-white buckskin
leggings; a large new lodge, completely fitted
with painted lining, willow back-rests for the
ends of the couches; a new woman's saddle
with gorgeous crupper and breast-band; fourteen new pack-saddles for the fourteen snowwhite horses that were to be her gift to her
white man; and last, many new, brightly
painted  parfleches, filled  with  pemmican,
choice dried meats and dried berries, for a
feast for the engages of the fort and their
women.
As the appointed time drew near, a messenger from the tribe arrived at the fort with
word that, four days hence, the bridal party
would arrive. The party proved to be the
whole Kai'na tribe, men, women, children, all
114.







MAJOR ALEXANDER CULBERTSON
(Beaver Child)










In Glacier National Park


of them in their beautiful ceremonial clothes,
Sun priests, chiefs, warriors in the lead, riding
painted, feathered horses, singing a mighty
song of friendly greeting to the time of a hundred drums. Behind themJ, escorted by her relatives., was beautifully gowned Na'towap' Tsi'sTseksi'n Ahki, upon a coal-black, fast buffalo
horse, and closely followed by the fourteen
white pack-horses loaded with all of her belongings; and after them the long caravan of the
tribe, four thousand strong. In the fort,. cannon boomed, flags fluttered, and in front of the
wide and open gate stood Culbertson and his.engages, dressed all of them in the best that
they had. They escorted the Sun priests,.
chiefs, and the bride and her relatives into the
wide court, and Culbertson assisted the girl
to dismount. She falteringly told him that
the black buffalo runner and the fourteen
white horses were her gift to him. He told her
that he had gifts for her and for her parents,
and at that, the engage's brought from the
trade room four guns., a keg of powder and
115





Signposts of Adventure


sack of balls, many blankets, much tobacco,
and other things for the father and mother, and
made glad their hearts. Then, while the engages
and their women feasted the party, Culbertson
escorted Naftowap' Tsis-Tseksin Ahki to his
office, his living quarters, and she cried when
she saw all that he there had for her: beautiful
shawls; gown lengths of silk, of wool, of cotton;
earrings, necklace, and bracelets of gold. There
was also a newly made gown of red silk, and an
engage's woman waiting to put it and more
intimate things upon her. Culbertson stepped
outside while that was being done; and then
she appeared in all her finery, and he proudly
escorted her to the great feast that he was giving in her honor. So began a happy union that
lasted until she died, many years later, when
on a visit to her Kai'na relatives.
Abandoning Fort Mackenzie, Culbertson
built Fort Lewis, in 1843, but the location
proving unfavorable for trade with the various
tribes, he moved back down the river six
miles and built Fort Benton, which he made
116





In Glacier National Park


his headquarters until 1861, when he severed
his connections with the American Fur Company and with his family went to live in St.
Louis and Peoria. Sacred Snake Woman, in
her old age, went to visit her Kai'na relatives,
on Belly River, Alberta, and there died.
63. Misum' Oksokwi'. Ancient Road. Logan
Pass.
Legend has it that this pass was traversed
from earliest times by the West-Side tribes;
first by the Snakes, and later by the Salish, and
the Kutenai tribes.
64. Tsis'tufki Ahki lIye'tuiktai. Beaver Woman
Creek. Reynolds Creek.
Beaver Woman was the sits-beside-him wife
of Nioks' Kaitos (Three Suns), a noted Pikuni
chief who died in 1898. Beaver Woman died a
few years later, of extreme old age. She was
a very noted natoyi', or sacred woman, and
always had a prominent part in the building of
the annual lodge for the sun and its attendant
ceremonials.
"117





Signposts of Adventure
65. Natos' Ai'tupo   Istuki. Sun   Going-to
Mountain. Going to the Sun Mountain.
The original name of this mountain was
Nitai' Ispi Istuki, Lone High Mountain. In
1885, when hunting along its base with my old
friend, Tail-Feathers-Coming-over-the-Hill, I
suggested that we give it a more appropriate
name, Sun Going-to Mountain. He replied:
'Ai! That is a better name for it; a very
sacred name. We will so name it. When
we arrive home, we will tell our people about it,
and their hearts will be glad. Next to Chief
Mountain, as you know, we regard this as the
most beautiful of all our mountains: so is it
right that it bear so sacred a name.'
66. Nitai' Kokwito'. Lone Ice. Sexton Glacier.
This glacier was so named for the reason
that it is at quite a distance from other glaciers.
67. Ap'ah Owapspi Iye'tfktai. Weasel Eyes
Creek. Baring Creek.
The basin in which this creek heads is
II8





BEAVER CHILD MOUNTAIN


GOING TO THE SUN MOUINTAIN


(OF
4 - D










In Glacier National Park


noted for the very large huckleberries or
blueberries that grow there; hence its name.
Weasel Eyes is a most appropriate name for
huckleberries, for they very closely resemble
the eyes of that animal. Actually, ap'ah is the
white or winter weasel. The summer or
yellow-furred weasel is otah'; from otokwe'
(yellow) and nitah' (lone one).
68. Apo'mfikikini Istfiki. Goat Mountain.
The literal translation of apo'mfukikini is
'white big head.' The bighorn, in Blackfeet,
is o'mfikakini, 'big head.' Why the former
should have been regarded as related to the
bighorn is not clear, except that both are
animals of the mountains and badlands cliffs.
Goats were always very numerous upon the
slope of this mountain that faces the lake;
hence its name.
69. Otoko'mi Kahwakwi'. Yellow Fish Valley.
Rose Basin.
This high valley was named for Otoko'mi
119





Signposts of Adventure
(Yellow Fish), son of Charles Rose, engage of
the American Fur Company at Astoria, and
later at Fort Benton. Yellow Fish also bears
his father's name. His mother was a woman of
the Lone Eaters Clan of the Pikuni. He is
now about seventy-five years of age, but is
still actively engaged in ranching on Badger
Creek, a fertile valley of the Blackfeet Reservation. In his earlier years he was a noted hunter,
and in the Saint Mary's country this basin was
his favorite hunting-ground.
70. Otoko'mi Iye'tufktai. Yellow Fish Creek.
Rose Creek.
71. Ahmi'tohts    Pufh'tomfiksikimi.  Upper
Lake-Inside. Saint Mary's Lake.
(See note on Lower Lake-Inside.)
72. Otoko'mi Istufki. Yellow Fish Mountain.
Whitefish Mountain.
Like the adjacent basin and creek, this
mountain was also named for Yellow Fish, son
of the old-time engage, Charles Rose.
120





In Glacier National Park


73. Nitsku'nufksin Istuki. One Shot Mountain.
Single Shot Mountain.
In the fall of 1885, we were three hungry
hunters climbing the slope of this mountain, in
quest of meat: Dr. George Bird Grinnell, J. B.
(Jack) Monroe, and I. As we approached the
slide rock, between timber-line and the summit
cliff, we saw, at a distance of about three
hundred yards, a lone bighorn ram staring
at us. Whereupon Dr. Grinnell brought his
heavy Sharps rifle to his shoulder, took quick
aim, and shot the animal fair in the heart.
That evening, in camp at the head of the
lower lake, we feasted upon broiled fat ribs, and
named the mountain for the remarkable shot
that saved us from going supperless to bed. The
former name of the mountain was Stone Head
Mountain, for the reason that, as seen from
the trail along the lower lake, its southeast
summit has the shape of a head of gigantic size.
74. Itokit'sawki' Istufki. On-Top Flat Mountain. Flat Top Mountain.
121





Signposts of Adventure


75. Kit'sitsim Iye'tfuktai. Grouse Creek. Wild
Creek.
76. Pinahp' Pfih'tomiksikimi. Lower LakeInside. Lower Saint Mary's Lake.
As the two Saint Mary's Lakes run well
back into the heart of the mountains, the
Blackfeet name for them, ' Lakes-Inside,'
perfectly describes them. In the eighteenfifties, when encamped at the foot of the
Lower Lake, the Reverend Father Lacombe,
S. J., and Hugh Monroe (Rising Wolf) there
erected a large wooden cross, and the priest,
with appropriate ceremony, christened the
lakes for the Virgin of their faith. (Albeit
Rising Wolf himself had no little faith in the
Sun religion of the Pikuni, of which tribe he
had long since become a member.)
77. Meksokfit'siks O'mfiksikimi. Red Feet's
Lake. Duck Lake.
Named for the immense numbers of ducks
that frequent it. The Blackfeet generic name
for ducks is 'red feet.'
122





U~y- ull ty  ilea


LOWE R LAKE-INSIDE










In Glacier National Park


78. Ik'sikwoyi lye'tufktai.  Swift Running
Creek. Swift Current Creek.
79. Is'ikutoyi Pahwaqui'. Blacktail Ridge.
Boulder Ridge.
Named in the long-ago, by Rising Wolf
(Hugh Monroe), for the plentitude of blacktail deer upon it.
80o. Is'ikutoyi lye'tutktai. Blacktail Creek.
Boulder Creek.
Also named by Rising Wolf.
81. Sai'yi Istufki.  Mad Wolf Mountain.
Mount Siyeh.
Mad Wolf, a noted warrior of the Pikuni,
was about eighty years of age when he died, a
few years ago. He had more bitter hatred for
white men than any other Indian that I ever
knew. A tourist once asked the old man to give
him a Blackfeet name. He grimly complied
with the request, and then, raising hands to
the sky, said fervently: '0 Sun! Oh, Power123





Signposts of Adventure


ful Traveler-of-the-Blue! Because I am very
poor; because I sorely need whatever this dogwhite-man may give me, I have given him a
name of our people. And now, 0 Sun, pity me.
I pray you to give this white man continuous
unhappiness under that name. Utterly destroy
him, and soon.'
'What did he say?' the tourist asked of the
interpreter.
'Oh, he made big talk, good talk to the sun,
about you, that was all.'
The tourist gave the old man the wherewith
to buy a little tobacco and tea, and went
happily upon his way: and ever afterward and
at every opportunity, he let it be known that
he had been adopted by the Pikuni tribe of the
great Blackfeet Confederacy.
Mad Wolf was so recklessly brave that, after
some years, none would go with him upon
raids against the enemy. Once, when he led a
small party and discovered a large camp of
Crows in the valley of the Bighorn River,
he mounted a large flat rock on top of the
124





In Glacier National. Park


ridge, in plain sight of the Crow camp, and
shouted his favorite song of war and defiance.
His followers begged him to cease and take to
cover, but he would not listen to them, and
they crept down into the timber and started
homeward. After a time he overtook them.
'That I was singing was a song of good luck
for us. Sun protected me; none in that great
camp saw or heard me. Therefore, turn back
again. We will rest in the timber upon the
ridge, and to-night take many fast buffalo
horses,' he said.
Reluctantly, fearfully, they did turn back
with him, and in the darkness of the night
they cut out from the camp more than a hun-W
dred horses and arrived safely home with
them.
Again, Mad Wolf led a small party across
the mountains, and,, despite the protests of his
men, boldly attacked a small camp of Kalispels,
on the Flathead' River, just after daybreak.
While his followers stubbornly fought the
much larger number of the enemy, Mad Wolf
125





Signposts of Adventure


chased one of the Kalispels into the timber;
and around and around a great fir tree which
was as a shield between them. At last,
managing to reload his gun, the Kalispel
fired, and shot off Mad Wolf's left hair-braid,
close to his head:-and then the latter overtook
and stabbed him to death. Returning to his
men, Mad Wolf encouraged them by word and
deed to fight more aggressively, and in the end
they killed fourteen of their opponents and put
the rest to flight; but not until seven of their
own number were dead among the lodges. A
far too big a price to pay for their victory,
they bitterly protested. And thereafter Mad
Wolf went alone to war upon the enemy.
8z. Piku'ni Istfiki. Piegan Mountain.
Piegan is, of course, a corruption of Pikuni.
The meaning of the latter word is Far-off-Robe
- buffalo robe, of course.
83. O'mftksi Stoin lstfiki. Big Knife Mountain. Pollock Mountain.
Our council of old men decided that this
iz.6





In Glacier National Park


fine mountain should be named for one whom
they respected and loved, Andrew Dawson,
the last Factor of the American Fur Company,
at Ahkap'ioyis (Many Houses), as the Blackfeet tribes named Fort Benton.
Andrew Dawson was born in Dalkieth,
Scotland, in 1817, and, determining to seek
fortune and adventure in America, he arrived
in New Orleans in 1843, and a year later, in
St. Louis, entered the service of the American
Fur Company. After some years at Fort
Pierre, Fort Clark, and Fort Union, he became
chief clerk for Alexander Culbertson at Fort
Benton. In 1854, during the latter's absence
in St. Louis, he completed the reconstruction
of the fort, in adobe, material absolutely
uninflammable and fairly durable. As late as
1883, the fort was still in good condition, but
thereafter, when abandoned by the several
companies of United States Infantry which
had been quartered in it for some years, it
rapidly deteriorated; it seemed to melt away.
To-day naught remains of it but its southeast
127





Signposts of Adventure


bastion, roofed over by a public-spirited citizen of the modern town.
In 1861, when Alexander Culbertson severed
his connection with the American Fur Company, Andrew Dawson became its Factor in
Fort Benton, and held that position until the
spring of 1864, when the Company sold out its
interests there to Carroll and Steele, two men
who had been its faithful clerks for many
years. Because, upon all formal occasions, he
wore a long sword, the Blackfeet tribes named
Dawson, O'mflksi Stoa'n (Big Knife). A keen
sportsman, his favorite pastime was the buffalo chase, in which he was as good as any of
his Indian friends in selecting and killing fat
cows. Only once, in his long life with them, did
he have any trouble with the Indians. Angered
because he would not sell them any whiskey,
several chiefs of the Kai'na (Blood) tribe once
stalked into his living quarters, which were in
the upper story of the northwest corner of the
fort, and announced that, if he did not at once
comply with their request, they would then
i18





In Glacier National Park


and there stab him to death. He had been
apprised of the purpose of their coming and
was prepared for it. Calmly enough he leaned
back in his big chair, cane in hand, and replied:
'You cannot stab me before I strike the floor
with this stick, and, if I do that, this room and
all in it will be blown to pieces as though struck
by Thunder Bird.'
'What do you mean?' one asked.
'Go out and down the stairs, and look into
the room under us: that will be my answer to
your question,' he replied.
The chiefs uneasily stared at one another, at
him, and whispered together. One of them
slipped out, went down and looked into the
room, and saw Charles Chouquette standing
with lighted candle over three open kegs of
powder. Through the open doorway above, his
companions heard his cry of fear. 'Come out!
Quick! Here stands one with fire, ready to
drop it into much powder!' he shouted to
them. Out they came, tumbling over one
another down the stairs: with the swiftness of
129





Signposts of Adventure


antelopes they fled from the fort and did not
return to it for many a moon. When at last
they did return, it was with peace offerings
of a fast buffalo horse and many beaver pelts to
Big Knife.
By his Gros Ventre woman, Dawson had
two sons, James and Thomas. When, in 1864,
the American Fur Company went out of
business, he took them to his old home in
Scotland, and there educated them. He had
made quite a large fortune, but when he died
his Scotch relatives in some way obtained
possession of it, and gave the two sons only
sufficient funds for their passage back to
America. They remained together in Canada
for about a year, and then, one summer day,
Thomas came into the trading-post of his
boyhood friend, Joseph Kipp, at Birch Creek,
the southern border of the Blackfeet Reservation. At the time Charles Robearre, ex-engage
of the American Fur Company, old, feeble,
half-blind, was in the trade room, and, turning
to him, Kipp said, in Blackfeet: 'Old man, this
130





In Glacier National Park


newcomer, you do not recognize him. Be
ashamed of yourself: he is Little Chief, son
of Big Knife.' There followed the most touching scene that I ever witnessed. With a pitiful
cry the old man went down upon his knees before Dawson, and, seizing his hands, repeatedly
kissed them; pitifully wept the while, and in
French and English and Blackfeet he gave
thanks for this great day of meeting again the
son of his long-ago chief, the bourgeois, the
great and last lord of Fort Benton. Thomas
Dawson is a resident of Glacier Park, where
for many years he has been, and still is, a most
competent outfitter and guide for parties touring the Park or hunting big game to the south
of it.
84. Pikuni Otsitfim'iso. Pikuni Pass. Piegan
Pass.
85. Ini'kokawa Istfiki. Buffalo Painted Lodge
Mountain. Cataract Mountain.
The name is that of the sacred or Sun priest
lodge, which has upon its right side from the
131





Signposts of Adventure*


doorway a large buffalo bull in black paint,
and upon the other side, a buffalo cow in black.
Each with a life-line in red, extending back
from the mouth to the heart, also in red. Buffalo Painted Lodge was an old-time Pikuni
warrior of great renown, and is principally
remembered for the following unique incident
in his career: One night, when a large war
party of Crees attacked his camp, he rushed to
meet them, stooping low to pass the doorway
of his lodge. At the same time one of the
enemy, in the same position, was entering it,
and their heads came together with such
terrific force that the Cree dropped dead. The
other was not stunned, though he did drop to
his knees for a moment. He then went on and
fought tirelessly until, after losing fourteen of
their number, the Crees turned and fled. The
Pikuni loss was five men and two women.
When day came, careful examination of the
body of the Cree in the doorway proved that
the one mark upon it was the crushed top
of the head.
132





In Glacier National Park


86. Si'kfimamakan Istfiki. Running Crane
Mountain. Gould Mountain.
Running Crane was a chief of the Lone
Eaters Clan of the Pikuni; a man of great
intelligence, bravery, and kindly disposition.
He counted his greatest coup at a time when
the Pikuni were encamped on the Musselshell
River, due south from the Snowy Mountains.
With his sits-beside-him woman, he went out
with a small number of other hunters and their
women to get a supply of meat. Sighting
a large herd of buffalo, and cautiously approaching it, the hunters made a good run in
which they killed a large number of fat cows.
Then, when they gave up the chase and had
turned back upon their all but winded horses,
they discovered a party of mounted Crows
bearing down upon their women, who were
already beginning to butcher the first of their
kills. The Crows suddenly changed their
minds about attacking the women and sheered
away from them, all but one, who, shouting a
song of defiance, came on and seized Running
'33





Signposts of Adventure


Crane's woman, drew her up onto his horse,
and rode off with her. Running Crane pursued
him and soon overtook him, whereupon the
Crow dropped the woman and fired, but the
shot went wild. Then Running Crane fired,
but also with no effect. By that time the two
were riding side by side; they seized one
another, slid from their horses, each seeking to
free himself and get at his knife. Running
Crane suddenly realized that his right hand
had closed upon the head of a tomahawk that
was thrust under the Crow's belt; with mighty
and sudden effort, he took the weapon, freed
himself from the other's grasp, and killed him
with it.
When Running Crane was born, a Sun
priest christened him, Ap'ikuni (Far-off-WhiteRobe). After he had been to war and had
counted several coups upon the enemy, he was
given the name of Running Crane; and still
later, for the same reason, was named Stfi'miks
Otokau'pi (Bull Turns Around). When I became a member of the Pikuni, he gave me his
134





In Glacier National Park


first name, Ap'ikuni, a name nearly as old as
that of the tribe itself.
87. Grinnell Glacier.
In recognition of Dr. George Bird Grinnell's
great friendship for the Pikuni and his untiring
services in their behalf, our council emphatically decided that the name for this great icesheet should remain, as it is upon the map of
the whites, simply Grinnell Glacier.
Said Curly Bear: 'Had he not come to our
aid, in our time of dreadful need, our tribe, to
the last man, woman, and child, would have
perished. Be sure, Ap'ikuni, that you write
the full account of it.'
'Yes! Gladly, thankfully, I shall tell all that
he did for us,' I replied. And so
For some years prior to the winter of 1-883 -84, one Young by name, a member of a
Brooklyn, New York, Methodist Church, had
been the Agent for the Pikuni, and in his annual reports to the Commissioner of Indian
Affairs he had represented that he had, by his
135





Signposts of Adventure


untiring efforts, made prosperous farmers of
the tribe, and that they were practically selfsupporting. Actually, he had rarely seen any
of them, for they were still following their
nomadic life and subsisting upon buffalo meat,
supplying their other needs by the sale of welltanned buffalo robes. But in the winter of
i88z-83, the buffalo were exterminated, and
the Pikuni returned to their agency, on Badger
Creek, and asked Young to supply them with
food. He had none for them, and in the face of
his reports did not dare ask the Washington
authorities to come to their aid. So during
the summer of 1883, the tribe killed off all of
the antelope, deer, elk, rabbits, and grouse
upon their reservation, and in the autumn
began to starve.
The late Joseph Kipp and I were at our
trading-post, Fort Conrad, on the Marias
River, sixty miles east of the agency. There
came to us, in November, Little Dog, Little
Plume, and Tail-Feathers-Coming-over-theHill, and told us of the sad plight of the tribe. I
136





In Glacier National Park


saddled a horse and rode up there, and found
that their report was all too true. I saw men,
women, children, even the dogs, dying daily
from want of food. Upon returning to Fort
Conrad, I wrote Dr. Grinnell about all that I
had seen on the r~eservation, and he. gave. the
matter wide publicity in his weekly journal,
Forest and Stream, and he himself went to
Washington and interviewed the President
and the lesser officials in behalf of the Pikuni.
The result was that Inspector Gardiner was
sent out to dismiss Agent Young, to install
another agent in his place, and to get food to
the tribe as soon as possible. The winter was
bitterly cold and the snow was deep. Relief
was not obtained until March, when mule
trains from Fort Shaw, the army post on.Sun River, arrived with all the provisions
that its commissary could spare. But by that
time more than five hundred of the Pikuni
were dead from starvation. The survivors
well knew who it was who had saved them.,
and in i885, when -Dr. Grinnell came out
'37





Signposts of Adventure


to visit them, they called a great council,
at which they made him a member of the
tribe and named him Pinutoyi Istsimokan
(Fisher Cap): a most ancient and honorable
name.
In 1896, when the Pikuni sold to the Government that part of their reservation that
is'now Glacier National Park, Dr. Grinnell
was a member of the treaty party from Washington, and it was entirely due to his influence
that they obtained a fair price for the strip,
$1,500,000.
It was in the fall of 1887 that Dr. Grinnell,
J. B. Monroe, and I camped one evening under
the great ice-sheet on Swift Current Creek, and
the next morning climbed up onto it. Just as
he had done on Single Shot Mountain, in a
previous autumn, Dr. Grinnell brought his
heavy Sharps rifle to his shoulder and killed an
immense bighorn ram that was staring at us at
a distance of more than two hundred yards.
We had no little difficulty in getting the
heavy head and meat down off the glacier,
138





In Glacier National Park


down over the cliffs, and to camp. And that
evening, as we feasted upon fat broiled ribs,
Monroe and I named the ice-sheet, Grinnell
Glacier. Later on, the name was enthusiastically approved by the council of Pikuni
chiefs.
88. Grinnell Lake.
Named for Dr. George Bird Grinnell.
89. Grinnell Mountain.
Named for Dr. Grinnell at the same time'
that we named the glacier for him.
9o. Fisher Cap's Mountain. Stark Peak.
Our council strenuously objects to this, the
name that has been given by the Geological Survey to the extreme point of Grinnell
Mountain, and we urgently ask the United
States Geographical Board to obliterate it.
'Who is Stark? None of us knows. He is a
stranger to us and to our country. From one
end of it to the other, this is Fisher Cap's
'39





Signposts of Adventure
Mountain! So mark it!' Curly Bear roars,
and I hasten to comply.
91. Nitah'ki O'miksikimi. Lone     Woman
Lake. Lake Josephine.
Named for a long-ago woman of the Pikuni,
who was noted for her love of the war trail.
92. Miniks' Ahkiks O'mufksikimi. Jealous
Woman's Lake.
In the long-ago, so legend has it, the two
women of a man bitterly hated one another -
wanted, each of them, the whole of their man's
love. They were sisters. To decide the matter,
they agreed to swim in this lake until one of
them should drown. Side by side they swam
to the head of the lake, back to its lower end,
and turned; and then the elder sister sank, to
rise no more.
93. Pahta'ki O'mfiksikimi. Carrier Woman
Lake. Cracker Lake.
Carrier Woman, widow of the noted warrior,
140





6opyri
GRINNELL GLACIER AND LONE WOMAN LAKE


GRINNTELL MOUNTAIN (on right)


or\










In Glacier National Park


Black Eagle, and afterward sits-beside-him
woman of the equally renowned warrior,
Yellow Wolf, was one of the most respected
and loved women of her time. She was noted
for her kindness to the old, the sick, and the
orphans. She was a frequent visitor in Fort
Benton, as her sister was the wife of Baptiste
Champine, a well-known engage of the American Fur Company. Her tales of life in the post
in pre-steamboat days, and later, were wonderfully interesting. She was a member of the
Small Robes Clan of the Pikuni.
94. Pi'ta Siksinuim Istfuki. Black Eagle Mountain. Allen Mountain.
Named for the Pikuni warrior, Black Eagle.
He was killed in a fight with the Assiniboines,
in about 1870.
95. Is'okwi Ahwo'tan Istfiki. Heavy Shield
Mountain. Mount Wilbur.
One summer day in the eighteen-sixties,
Heavy Shield, a noted warrior of the Pikuni,
141





Signposts of Adventure


went out hunting with two friends. The camp
of the tribe was at the junction of the North
and the South Fork of Cutbank River. The
three went up the valley of the North Fork,
the main stream, and killed an elk at the east
edge of the pines upon its north slope. Having
skinned and butchered the animal, they sat
down side by side, and were smoking contentedly, when they were suddenly attacked by a
party of Kutenai Indians. The man on Heavy
Shield's right, Running Wolf, was instantly
killed, as was he, apparently. The other one,
Little Otter, unharmed by the shots of the
enemy, sprang upon his horse, and, hurrying to
camp, reported the death of his companions
and called out a hundred or more men of the
All Friends Society to avenge their death.
They found Heavy Shield still living, but unconscious from a bullet wound that had torn
open his scalp, but had not pierced his skull,
and they saw that the first, Second, and third
fingers of his right hand, and the second and
third fingers of his left hand, had been cut off.
142





In Glacier National Park


The enemy had disappeared, and no trace of
them could be found. Very gently they car-.
ried Heavy Shield down to the river, bathed
him with the cold water, bound up his wounds.,
and brought him to life, whereupon he told a
most remarkable tale of his experience with
the enemy. Pain in his fingers, he said, brought
him to life, and he opened his eyes. just enough
to see what was being done to him. Unable to
pull his rings off, so tight were they, a man of
horrible face Was cutting -off his fingers at their
first joints, so as easily to obtain them. The
cutter had no nose., no upper lip, and his cheeks
were seared with deep red scars. So much he
saw of the man, and again lapsed into unconsciousness.
The relief party hurriedly buried Running
Wolf and carried Heavy Shield home-, where
he soon recovered from his wounds. In the
following summer the Pikuni made a peace
agreement with the Kutenai tribe, and it was
then learned that the man of horrible faceCut Nose, they called him - was a renegade, a
'43





Signposts of Adventure
man of temper so bad that, when he had
killed his woman, they had driven him off,
after informing him that they would kill him
if he ever returned to their camp. As that had
occurred three winters back, and they had
not since seen him, it was evident that he
had joined some other tribe. No members of
their tribe, they asserted - and undoubtedly
truthfully - had gone upon raids against the
Pikuni at any time during the past four winters. This Cut Nose, they said, had once been
a man of good disposition, but after being
attacked and terribly mangled by a she realbear - a grizzly - he had surely acquired the
temper of that fierce animal. Not only had he
killed his woman, but it was quite certain that
he had killed three different men of the tribe,
whose lives, in his ungovernable rage, he had
threatened.
When Heavy Shield learned all this about
his enemy, he went out from his lodge, and in
the center of the great camp, in the presence of
all the people, he made a vow to Sun that, from
'44





HEAVY SHIELD MOUNTAIN AND JEALOUS WOMAN'S LAKE


01
C










In Glacier National Park


that time, all of his raids against the enemy
would be confined to quest of Kah'kan - Cut
Nose - the Kutenai renegade.
At times, during the next few winters and
summers, Cut Nose made his presence known
'by attacking and sometimes killing stray
hunters from the camp of the Pikuni, and the
other tribes of the Blackfeet Confederacy; but
now, when seen, he was always alone, and it
was believed that he had been cast out by
whatever enemy tribe he had joined.
Frequently making rich sacrifices to Sun,
praying for the great one's help in fulfilling his
vow, Heavy Shield eagerly sought Cut Nose,
hurrying to this place and to that place where
his enemy had been seen, but always failed to
find him. And then
In the New Grass moon of a later summer,
the Pikuni chiefs, in council at the mouth of
the Marias River, decided to move camp to
the Divided Buttes, later named by the
North-West Mounted Police the Cypress
Hills. Some days later, as the great caravan
'45





Signposts of Adventure

of the tribe neared the place, Heavy Shield and
several other chiefs, far in the lead, saw two
riders come up out of a coulee, and went after
them; a man and a woman, they perceived.
With their powerful and swift horses, they
rapidly gained upon them. The man halfturned in his saddle, and they saw that he was
their terrible enemy, Cut Nose, he of frightful face, he and no other. And Heavy Shield
shouted to his companions: 'My friends, Sun
has granted my prayer. Leave this, my
enemy, to me; touch him not, I beg you, unless
he kills me.'
'You for it! But oh, be careful!' they replied.
When the pursuers were almost upon the
two, Cut Nose suddenly aimed back and fired
his gun at Heavy Shield, nearest to him, and
the shot went wild! Cried Heavy Shield then:
'Faster, my friends: surround the two and
bring them to a stand.'
They did so. Facing Cut Nose, Heavy
Shield signed to his enemy: 'Now, after all
146





In Glacier National Park'


these many winters and summers, you are to
pay for cutting off my fingers, for killing many
of my people. See, my gun is loaded, yours is
empty. I can shoot -you, but I will not do that.
Get you down from your horse and we will
fight one another with our knives.'
At that, the woman made great outcry and
quickly signed to Heavy Shield: 'No! No!
Do not fight him; he is very powerful. Shoot
him! Shoot the. dog!'
But even as she signed that, the two were off
their horses, and., with man-bear-like roars and
ready knife, Cut Nose sprang at Heavy Shield.,
who had not drawn his knife. He warded off
the other's stabbing thrust and with mighty
grip around his body bound his arms close at
his sides. Cut Nose. struggled fiercely to free
himself, and more and more frightful became
his face - his noseless., lipless, and scarred
face: Long, long they struggled, until, at last,
with sudden shift of arms, Heavy Shield
seized the other's right hand and obtained
possession of his knife.. And then he stabbed
' 47





Signposts of Adventure
him in his shoulder, and he let out a shriek Of
pain. Heavy Shield stabbed him again and
again until with one last thrust he cut his
heart, and, with a last gasp, the man fell, to
rise no more. At that, raising hands to the
Above One, Heavy Shield gave him thanks for
his victory, and presented him with the knife
with which he had killed his enemy.
He turned., then, and looked at the womnan,,
singing, laughing, dancing. He made the
query sign, and she signed back: "I am a woman
of your enemies, the Crees. Kill me., if you will.
I will gladly give my life to you, now that you
have freed me from that dreadful skeleton
face, there lying. He stole me, made me go
with him, work for him. Many times he
beat me, pinched me, tore my hair, told me
that when, soon, he would get tired of me, he
would kill me,, and then steal another woman
of my tribe.'
'We pity you. Live. Remain with us as long
as you will: and when you wish to return to
your people, a good horse and plenty of food
148





ICE LAKE


o xy -~










In Glacier National Park


you shall have for your long journey,' Heavy
Shield replied. So was it that that poor
woman's heart was made glad.
Such was the passing of Cut Nose. A great
man, a great chief, was Heavy Shield.
96. Suyi'kaiyi Iye'tufktai. Mink Creek. Wilbur Creek.
97. Kokwito' O'mufksikimi. Ice Lake. Iceberg Lake.
Rising Wolf (Hugh Monroe) and his son,
Kinuk Apisi (Little Wolf, John Monroe), discovered and named this lake in a summer of
the eighteen-fifties. It had, of course, long
before that been visited by hunters of the
mountain tribes, the Snakes, Kutenais, and
Stonies. A live glacier keeps it partly filled
with blocks of ice.
98. Ikai Pini Istuki. Red Sore Eyes Mountain. Mount Henkel.
Red Sore Eyes was Joseph Henkel, familiarly known as Joe 'Butch.' He became a
149





Signposts of Adventure
member of the Pikuni in the fall of 1870, by
marriage to the half-blood daughter of Joseph
Cobell, a noted one-time engage of the American Fur Company. Henkel had for many
years a ranch at the foot of Lower Saint
Mary's Lake.
99. O'tatso O'mfiksikimi. Walking Stooped
Lake. Kennedy Lake.
Walking Stooped was the Pikuni name of
John Kennedy, a noted Indian trader, who
married a Pikuni woman in the eighteen-sixties. In 1874, he built a trading-post at the
junction of the outlet of this lake with Saint
Mary's River, and did a successful trade with
the Pikuni and others for several years, when
he abandoned the place and moved to the
Sweetgrass Hills. After the buffalo were exterminated, he was in business in Fort Benton,
and later in Great Falls, where he died in 1905.
He was liked and respected by all who knew
him. His son, John Kennedy, has a store at
Heart Butte, Blackfeet Reservation.
150





In Glacier National Park


ioo. Sapwo' Mfiksika Istfuki. Crow     Feet
Mountain. Altyn Peak.
Crow Feet was the last great chief of the
Blackfeet tribe of this once great Confederacy
of Blackfeet tribes. When the North-West
Mounted Police entered the country that is
now the Province of Alberta, Canada, it was
through Crow Feet's influence that his tribe
made a treaty of peace with the British Government, and decided to remain in the territory,
instead of crossing the line and living in Montana, under the Blackfeet tribes' 1855 treaty
with the United States. However, when the
buffalo left Alberta, in 1878, never to return,
he led his people southward in the trails of the
great herds. The Crees, under their chief,
Big Bear, came south later on, also in quest of
buffalo. In the fall of i88o, the two tribes,
one-time bitter enemies, camped side by side
on the Missouri, about thirty miles above the
mouth of the Musselshell River, and from there
hunted buffalo upon the plains south to the
Snowy Mountains and north to the Little
iSI





Signposts of Adventure
Rockies. During the entire winter, owing to
Crow Feet's powerful hold upon his warriors,
there was not a single unpleasant occurrence;
it was as though the two tribes were one great
family of happy, contented people. They were
encamped all around the trading-post that the
late Joseph Kipp and I had built at that point
on the Missouri. There, too, was Louis Riel
with his following of several hundred families
of Red River French-Cree mixed bloods, sowing the seed of discontent under Canadian
rule, which culminated in the Riel Rebellion
of 1884. Black Bear and his Crees were completely carried away by Riel's smooth oratory
and promises of riches to come, but Crow Feet
would not listen to him. In our trading-post,
he said to him one day: 'For the last time, I
say to you, No! No! Fight the Red Coats if
you will. I and my children shall remain ever
friendly with them!'
Our trade with the Blackfeet and the Crees,
that winter of i88o-8i, amounted to 4000
tanned buffalo robes; 7000 pelts of beaver,
ISa





In Glacier National Park


wolf, deer, elk, and antelope; 6o,ooo pounds of
dried buffalo meat and pemmican. In the fall
of i88i, the Blackfeet returned to their reservation, just east of Calgary, never again to
follow the buffalo. In the following summer,
the Crees departed for their Northern country. During the following winter, the last of
the buffalo were killed by Riel's followers and
white men hunting north from the Yellowstone. And where our fine trading-post stood,
in its grove of big cottonwoods, now flows the
turbid current of the Missouri.
Last month, with three old, gray-haired
members of the Blackfeet tribe, I visited
Crow Feet's grave. Long and silently we stood
there, and turned away, our hearts so full of
memories of the dead and gone buffalo days
that speech was impossible.
io0. Ap'ikuni Iye'tfiktai.
Far-off-White-Robe Creek.
Appikunny Creek.
Named for the writer of this volume.
'53





Signposts of Adventure
1oz. Ap'ikuni Istfiki. Far-off-White-Robe
Mountain. Appikunny Mountain.
Also named for the writer - how many
years ago!
103. Kai'yoiks Otsitait'ska O'mfiksikimiks.
Fighting Bears' Lakes. Sherburne
Lakes.
Between these lakes, in the long-ago, Rising
Wolf (Hugh Monroe) and a party of the Pikuni
witnessed a fight to the death between two
large male grizzlies; hence the name. Literally, it is 'Bears-Where-They-Fought-Lakes.'
104. Ik'sikwoyi Pahwakwi'. Swift Flowing
Ridge. Swift Current Ridge.
105. O'tatso Iye'tfiktai. Walking Stooped
Creek. South Fork Kennedy Creek.
Also named for John Kennedy, old-time Indian trader who had a trading-post at the
mouth of this stream. (See 'Walking Stooped
Lake.')
154





In Glacier National Park


io6. So-oh'iks Otsitum'iso. War Parties' Pass.
Ahern Pass.
The Kai'na (Blood) tribe of the Blackfeet
Confederacy had this name for the pass, as its
members frequently used it when going upon
raids against the West-Side tribes.
107. Pai'ota-pamakan  O'mfiksikiml. Came
Running Back Lake. Helen Lake.
Came Running Back was Miss Helen Clark,
eldest daughter of Malcolm Clark, who was
killed at his ranch by relatives of his Pikuni
wife, in 1868. Miss Clark was a woman of high
education, and was a teacher in various Montana schools, previous to her death in Glacier
Park, a few years ago.
108. Sisuk' Kokwito'. Spotted Ice. Ahern
Glacier.
So named because its surface is spotted with
many deposits of rock.
109. Ikotsi' Sakuim. Red Earth. Red Gap.
155





Signposts of Adventure"
nio. In-Un'stam   Istfiki. Long-Lodge-Pole
Mountain. Seward Mountain.
Long-Lodge-Pole, a noted war chief of the
Pikuni, counted his greatest coup in the killing
of White Dog, war chief of the Assiniboine
branch of the Sioux Confederacy. In his frequent night raids upon the camps of the various Blackfeet tribes and their allies, White
Dog often made his presence known by shouting in their own language, 'Nisto'ah Apio'mita!' (I am White Dog!) Having with his
followers, successfully removed some of the
best horses from a camp, his men would hold
them while, alone, he would go back, raise
the door flap of a lodge, and shoot at its
owner as he shouted his name, his cry of defiance, as it were. Always he managed to
elude pursuit, and, rejoining his party, go
back safely to the Assiniboine camp with the
horses that they had taken. Summer after
summer, and sometimes in winter, war parties
of the Blackfeet tribes sought White Dog,
even in his own country- at the mouth of
156





In Glacier National Park


Milk River and beyond - but sought him in
vain.
In the last moon of a winter when the Pikuni
were encamped at the east end of the Sweetgrass Hills, White Dog and his many followers
raided them, killed one of their women, and in
the darkness of the night got away with more
than a hundred fine horses, among them the
fast buffalo horse of Long-Lodge-Pole. During
the remainder of the night, Long-Lodge-Pole
organized a large party to go in pursuit of the
enemy, and at break of day they were off, but
not upon the trail of the Assiniboines, the
Pikuni chief reasoning that, if they were not
followed, they would leisurely travel homeward
by way of the valley of Milk River, in which
they could obtain plenty of shelter and fuel for
their cooking-fires. Striking out well south of
the enemy trail and urging their horses on to
the utmost of their endurance, three days
later Long-Lodge-Pole and his men rode down
into the valley of Milk River, not far above its
junction with the Missouri, and cached their
157





Signposts of Adventure


weary animals in the depths of a large grove
of cottonwoods and willows; and then, on foot,
criss-crossed the valley, but found no fresh
trails other than those of the buffalo. With
the morning came a cold snowstorm from the
north. The Pikuni mounted their weary and
shivering animals and rode up the valley, keeping well back in the timber, and avoiding the
open bottoms as much as possible. Near noon,
when halted in the outskirts of a long grove,
they saw the enemy coming down the center
of the valley, their leader far in advance, with
his blanket shielding his face from the storm.
They let him pass, and then, ordering his men
to attack the main party, Long-Lodge-Pole
rode out from the timber and shouted, mockingly, 'I am White Dog!'
The Assiniboine was startled. He looked
back, slid from his horse, fired at LongLodge-Pole, and broke a foreleg of his horse.
As the animal went down, the latter sprang
lightly to the ground and shot White Dog, the
bullet breaking his thigh. Down he went, and
1.58Q)





In Glacier National Park
Long-Lodge-Pole ran to him, knocked his knife
from his hand, and, seizing it, began scalping
him. He cut a gash all the way across his forehead, and, as he peeled back the scalp, the man
gave loud roars of fear and pain, and in the
sign language pleaded for mercy. Said the
other, 'Who are you, to ask for pity? You,
night killer of my people in their lodges!' And
at that, with a last sweep of the knife, tore off
the whole scalp. The skin of the man's forehead dropped down, covering his eyes; he
tried to hold it up so that he could see, the
while he cried with fearful voice and with one
hand made signs for pity. He was so sickeningly cowardly that, unable to bear it, LongLodge-Pole finished him with a knife thrust in
his heart. He then took the dead man's gun
and horse, and, mounting, hurried to join his
men and help them chase the fleeing Assiniboines. They killed many of them and recovered all of the Pikuni horses that they had
taken. A few days later, Long-Lodge-Pole in
the lead and waving the scalp of White-Dog,
159





Signposts of Adventure
they rode into the home camp, singing the song
of victory. So was it that Long-Lodge-Pole
counted his greatest coup!
ii. Otoka'pis Istuki. Yellow Wolf Mountain. Yellow Mountain.
This fine long mountain was long since
named for Yellow Wolf, a noted warrior of the
Small Robes Clan of the Pikuni. Trachoma
put an end to his activities, but he was a
thrilling, a dramatic personality when, during
the annual ceremonials of the Sun's lodge, he
vividly counted his more than forty coups upon
the enemies of his tribe.
S12. Insi'maki Istfki. Seed Woman Mountain. Sherburne Peak.
Named for the widow of Yellow Wolf.
I113. Am'unis  O'mufksikimi.  Otter Lake.
Elizabeth Lake.
In the long-ago, this lake was noted for the
many otters that made their homes along its
16o





In Glacier National Park


shore and obtained their food in its clear
water. Small parties from the various Blackfeet tribes often went to it to trap the valuable
animals, for their own use, never for sale to
the fur-traders. The otter is believed, by the
Blackfeet, to be the most sacred of all the water animals, the most desired by Sun. Their
name for it, amunis, is, literally, wind hair.
Thin strips of its fur were used for winding and
fastening the ends of the men's long braids of
hair, and the beautiful pelts were in large
numbers given to Sun, hung to the center post
of the great lodge that was annually built in
his honor.
114. Natos' Api Istuiki. Old Sun Mountain.
Mount Merritt.
The name is actually Sun Old. Its last
bearer was a Sun priest of the Blackfeet tribe.
He once dreamed that Sun appeared to him,
and asked that, in the coming summer, a
white buffalo robe be tied to the center post of
the lodge that the people would build for him.
161





Signposts of Adventure
There was not an albino robe in any of the
camps of the Blackfeet Confederacy, but it
was known that the Earth People (the Mandans) possessed one. With an escort of twenty
men of the Mutsiks (Braves) of the All
Friends Society, Old Sun made the long journey to the Mandan village and purchased, the
robe, giving in exchange for it thirty fine
horses and one hundred perfect eagle tailfeathers. Upon the return journey, when near
the mouth of Milk River, his little party was
attacked by more than fifty Assiniboines. Old
Sun called upon his men to fight valiantly, to
give their lives, if need be, to protect the
sacred robe, and he himself led them against
the enemy; and so fiercely, courageously, that
the Assiniboines soon turned and fled, leaving
eleven of their number dead upon the field.
The Blackfeet lost not a single man; none was
wounded. The great Traveler-of-the-Blue,
ever watchful, had protected them from the
arrows of the enemy. They arrived safely
with the robe, and in due time, and with
I6z





OLD SUN MOUNTAIN FROM RED GAP PASS












In Glacier National Park


great rejoicing and fervent prayer, it was
hung upon the very top of the Okan' center
post.
115. Sistsa'ki O'mafksikimi. Little Bird Woman Lake. Margaret Lake.
Named for Little Bird Woman, sits-besidehim woman of Old Sun. She was a noted
leader in the building of Sun lodges: a very
sacred woman, who had great success in curing
the sick of her tribe.
I16. Sistsa'ki Kokwito'. Little Bird Woman
Ice. Chaney Glacier.
117. Mato'-i-karup-tahe Istuki. Bear-Looking-Back Mountain. Mount Kipp.
Bear-Looking-Back was the Mandan name
of the late Joseph Kipp, son of Captain
James Kipp, and Good Eagle Tail, a very remarkable woman of the Mandan tribe of Indians. He had also a Blackfeet name, given
him by one of his friends of the Blood tribe of
163





Signposts of Adventure
the Confederacy: Mas-tun'opachis (Raven
Quiver).
In 1864, Captain Kipp severed his connection with the American Fur Company, and,
leaving his son and Good Eagle Tail to the
care of Alexander Culbertson, he went to
Missouri, took to himself a French wife,
bought a farm, and there lived until he died,
in 1881. He did, however, make occasional
trips up-river, to visit his son and Mandan
woman, the last one in 1868. It will be remembered that Captain Kipp was a valued
employee of the great fur company. He it was
whom Kenneth Mackenzie selected to build
Fort Piegan, at the mouth of the Marias River,
in 1831, and to secure the trade of the Black--
feet tribes and of their allies. Before that time,
and afterwards, he was in charge of the Company's Fort Clark, at the Mandan villages,
and of other posts on the Missouri.
Culbertson installed mother and son in comfortable quarters in Fort Benton, where the
boy made himself useful in the various activi164





In Glacier National Park


ties of the post, and there the two remained
until the summer of 1870, when the son began
trading on his own account with the various
Blackfeet tribes, he having acquired perfect
command of their language and established
very close relations with them, particularly the
Pikuni. So long as he lived, the latter tribe
went to him for advice in all matters pertain-.
ing to its welfare. In 1876, he married DoubleStrike Woman, beautiful daughter of Chief
Heavy Runner, one of the first to fall in the
Baker Massacre, and by her he had three
children, James, George, and Mary Kipp, all
of them still living. He died from a sudden
attack of pneumonia, at Browning, in 1913,
i n his sixty-sixth year, and his passing was
mourned by all the residents,, Indian and white,
of northern Montana.
As Kipling-s Kim said of the old lama,
Joseph Kipp was a friend to all the world. He
was always eager to help those in distress, the
old, the sick, the poor, and his love for children was boundless. He was a father to me.





Signposts of Adventure


When, a youth of eighteen I arrived in Fort
Benton, he took me under his watchful care,
taught me the ways of the buffalo plains, gave
me real help and advice in all my undertakings, and twice prevented my going with
Pikuni war parties upon raids against enemy
tribes, from which they never returned.
Usually of most happy, cheerful disposition,
there were times when my more than friend
had fits of terrible depression. Although the
Montana Territorial Legislature had passed
a bill by which he was made a citizen, and
though he was a member of the Montana
Pioneers and the Montana Historical Society,
by invitation, he would tell me that he felt
that the whites despised him because of his
Indian blood, and relate the saddest of all his
experiences:
Carroll and Steell, clerks of the American
Fur Company, who took over Fort Benton
when it went out of business, were deeply
interested in young Kipp, and decided that he
must have a good education. So, one fall,
166





In Glacier National Park


they gave him a thousand dollars, and sent
him down-river in one of their keel boats.
Arrived in St. Charles, Missouri., he set out to
visit his father, and met him in the road near
his farm. Kipp, senior, was pleased to see
him, but at the same time showed great un-"
easiness. He at last told young Joseph that he
was married to a French lady, and had never
told her that he had a woman and son in the
Upper Missouri country; therefore, he would
have to introduce him as a friend., newly arrived from there. As such, and deeply humiliated, the youth entered his father's home and
was introduced to the lady as Joseph Spearson,
of Fort Benton. He. did not long remain there;
but retraced his steps to St. Charles, attended
school there during the winter, and in the
spring returned to Fort Benton with a trunkful
of textbooks with which he educated himself.
James Ki pp had several children by his white
Wife., but always declared that he loved most.his Mandan son, and really proved it by often
coming-up-river to visit him and his mother;
167





Signposts of Adventure


and, dying, he left the two the greater part of
his money in bank, the farm going to the other
children.
In 1867, with the permission of Carroll and
Steell, young Kipp went on a prospecting expedition with John Wren, Charles Thomas,
and several other one-time employees of the
American Fur Company. With a team of
eight bulls and wagon, and a number of saddle
horses, they skirted the foot of the Rockies
from the Teton River north to the Saskatchewan, prospecting every stream for placer gold,
and finding none. En route north, they reshod
one of the bulls when they were camped beside
a small stream, and in the next camp, having
occasion to shoe another bull, missed the
blacksmith pincers with which they heated
and reshaped the shoes. Kipp rode back and
found the pincers where they had shod the
bull, so they named that stream Pincers Creek,
the name that it bears to-day.
When the prospectors arrived at Calgary,
the Hudson's Bay Company refused to sell
168





In Glacier National Park


them supplies of any kind, so they took the
trail back to Fort Benton, all but young Kipp,
who chose to remain for a time with a camp of
Blackfeet hunting near the spot. Late in the
fall, the buffalo disappeared, the Indians broke
camp and went eastward in quest of the herds,
and Kipp took quarters with some families
of French-Crees -.so-called Red River halfbreeds - encamped at the post. He became
more and more homesick, and in January, and
in bitterly cold weather, accompanied by one
of the Red Rivers, who wanted to see the Missouri River country, he struck out for Fort
Benton. They had no supplies, the Factor of
the H.B.C. refusing to sell them even a little
tea, but that did not matter: they would soon
run into buffalo and kill all the meat that they
wanted. The snow was so deep that their
sturdy horses could travel no more than fifteen
miles between sunrise and sunset. Day after
day passed and they sighted no buffalo, not
even antelope, but wolves were very plentiful,
and so shy that they kept ever beyond range
169





.Signposts of Adventure
of the. travelers' rifles. But Kipp had a vial of
strychnine, and one evening he put a little of
the poison into three mice that he. caught, and
then placed the carcasses. at a distance of
several hundred yards from camp. Day came,.and revealed a dead wolf where the baits had
been. The two hungry men broiled and ate
some of its fat meat. Their three days' fast
ended, they went on south, and on the following day struck a herd of buffalo on Belly River',
and had a real feast. From there on, they had
plenty of meat until they arrived in Fort Benton.
Until the very end, Joseph Kipp's. life was
one. of high adventure and romance.. I regret
that lack. of space forbids further 'mention of
him here. You who are interested,, however., in
reading about a real man will find much about
him in two of my tales: 'My Life as an Indian,'
and 'Friends of my Life as an Indian.' In
the first one of these, he appears under the
name of 'Berry.' Would that I could rewrite
that book, and tell more about the fine char170





In Glacier National Park
acter of my dear, dead friend, under his real
name!
II8. Sah-ta' Kokwito'. West Man's Ice.
Shepard Glacier.
Sah-ta' (West Man, or more correctly, OtherSide Man) was the half-Pikuni, half-Kalispel
Indian who was Father De Smet's guide during
his travels in the country of the West-of-the
Rockies Salish tribes and of the Blackfeet
tribes of the plains. In his 'Life, Letters and
Travels' the noted Jesuit says of 'Sah-ta"
that the word is undoubtedly the heathen
version of Satan, and that he is very thankful
that he has converted his faithful guide to
belief in the Christian faith. And again, we
read that Sah-ta' spends long hours around the
evening camp-fires in exhorting the Indians to
forswear their heathen gods and turn to the
Christian faith.
I knew Sah-ta' well. He was greatly amused
when I told him that the good father had
believed his name had the same meaning as
171





Signposts of Adventure


the whites' name for the bad Fire-MakerSatan. And then I asked him what it was that
he talked about around the priest's campfires.
'Well, what would we talk about? Hunting.
Our war trails. Far-back adventures of our
ancestors, of course.'
'Then you didn't urge your relatives, your
friends, to believe in the white men's god?'
'No. Why should I? Ap'ikuni, well you
know that I am a Sun priest,' he shortly
replied.
When I knew him Sah-ta' lived a part of
each year with his Pikuni relatives. He died
on the Flathead (Kalispel) Reservation, sometime in the eighteen-nineties.
119. I-pa-sha' Istfiki.  Good Eagle Tail
Mountain. Pyramid Peak.
Named for the mother of the late Joseph
Kipp. I-pa-sha' was her Mandan name. Her
Blackfeet name was Sak'wi Oyis Ahki (Earth
House Woman). Good Eagle Tail's father
172





In Glacier National Park


was the noted Mandan chief, Mahtotopa
(Four Bears), of whom Catlin wrote so highly
in his ('Eight Years among the Indian Tribes
of North America.' Tall, slender, of fine figure and straight as an arrow, light-colored,
as many of the Mandans were, Good Eagle
Tail, even in her old age was a very beautiful
woman. She was born in about 1815, and was
married to James Kipp according to tribal
custom, in about 1837. She well knew
Sacajawea, the heroine of the Lewis and Clark
Expedition. She knew the Chouteaus, Mackenzie, Culbertson, Dawson, Carroll and Steell,
and the great chiefs, Sun priests, and warriors
of all the plains tribes that traded at the
various posts of the American Fur Company.
She saw the keel boats and mackinaws of the
early fur-traders superseded by steamboats,
and these in turn disappear when the Great
Northern Railway entered the Upper Missouri
country. Like some men and women of other
tribes whom I have known, she was very proud
of her ancestry, a real aristocrat, and yet her
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Signposts of Adventure
kindliness of heart and her sympathy for all in
distress were boundless. When, in the winter of
1883-84, the Pikuni were starving, she and her
inseparable companion, Crow Woman, sold
the more than five hundred buffalo robes that
they owned, and devoted the entire proceeds
to the relief of about thirty lodges of the tribe
that were at our post on the Marias River,
Fort Conrad. Wherever her son and I went,
in our trade with the various tribes, there
went she and Crow Woman, eager to do all
that they possibly could for our comfort and
our success. There were intervals when we
summered at our home place, Fort Conrad,
and then, at the lower end of the bottom where
the Dry Fork enters the Marias, the two
women would make plantings of Mandan
corn and squash, and laboriously irrigate the
little garden with buckets of water from the
stream. I spent long afternoons there with
them, under the little shelter of poles and buffalo leather that they had built. While they
embroidered fine furred buffalo robes with
'74





In Glacier National Park


quill patterns of rainbow hues, they told me -
in the Blackfeet language - the life-story of
Sacajawea; intimate tales of long-ago heroes
of the Mandan and the Minnetaree tribes; and
gave many revealing lights upon the character and the idiosyncrasies of the early furtraders, the men who blazed the trails for the
people of the later 'covered wagon' days.
Heavy, indeed, is my heart as I write these
lines. Gone are my almost-mothers, Good
Eagle Tail and Crow Woman; gone my more
than brother, Raven Quiver; gone, forever
gone, that which was our joy, our supreme
contentment, the life of the buffalo plains!
1zo. Onistai'yi Istfiki. Calf Robe Mountain.
Cathedral Peak.
Official, careless interpreters have made a
mistake in the translation of this name; its
actual meaning is Sacred, or Miraculous, Robe.
A story is told of the bearer of the name that is
firmly believed by all the members of the
Blackfeet tribes:
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Signposts of Adventure
Onistai'yi, a warrior of the Pikuni, went with
a number of friends upon a raid against the
Crows, and, in a fight with them on the Musselshell River, was badly wounded. Having
killed some of the Crows and driven off the
others, Onistai'yi's companions wanted to get
him home by drawing him upon a buffalo hide,
but he insisted that they build a little lodge,
supply him with meat and water, and leave
him there to recover. They did as they were
told, and went upon their way. Days passed.
The wounded man ate the last of his meat,
drank the last of his water, and faced death
from starvation. As he prayed for help, he
heard steps outside, and presently a huge
grizzly came into the lodge, stopped and looked
at him a long time, and then came on and stood
beside his couch, looking down at him, and in
turn at his own back, as much as to say that he
wanted the wounded one to mount upon it.
Onistai'yi did so. The bear gave a low growl
and carried him outside and upon the homeward trail. On and on they went, resting dur176





In Glacier National Park


ing the day, traveling at night. When meat
was wanted, the bear would leave the man,
stalk and kill a buffalo, and then take him to
it. Onistai'yi would then partly butcher the
animal, and build a fire and roast a large quantity of the meat. At first, the bear refused to
touch it, but after a time preferred it to raw
meat. So traveling, resting, feasting, they
came, at last, to the bank of the Missouri
opposite Many Houses Fort (Fort Benton),
and there the rider told the bear that they
must part, else the people of the fort would
kill him. The bear whimpered, started off,
turned and looked back, whimpered again and
again, and at last went on. The wounded one
then shouted for help, and engages of the fort
came with a boat and took him across, and
their women cared for him until he became
well.He told how the bear had brought him
all the way from the Musselshell, killed meat
for him, and Beaver Child (Alexander Cubbertson) and his engages laughed and made
fun of his tale. But their women believed; they.
'77





Signposts of Adventure
knew that he told the truth about it. Such
was the experience of Calf Robe in the longago.
121. Stonies' Pass. Indian Pass.
Kutenai Brown, a white man who lived for
many years at Kutenai Lake, now Waterton
Lake, named this pass for the Stonie tribe
of mountain Indians, a branch of the Assiniboine Sioux. The Blackfeet name for the tribe
is Soksis'okitfiki, which is 'Saksi'-Trying-toCut': what the Saksi' is trying to cut is not
specified. It is evident that when the Blackfeet first met them, they gathered that the
little tribe was of the same stock as their ally,
the Saksis'. But in that they were very much
mistaken, as the latter are of Athapaskan
stock. The Stonies have dwindled to only a
few score of people, and reside upon a small
reservation just west of Calgary. Their immediate ancestors roamed both sides of the
Rockies, from the Saskatchewan south to Sun
River, in Montana. I met some of them, last
178





LONE MAN LAKE AND GOOD EAGLE TAIL MOUNTAIN


All~










In Glacier National Park


month, in Fort McLeod, Alberta, and to my
great surprise learned that they could not give
me the Stonie name of a single topographical
feature of Glacier Park.
i22. Stonie Lake. Indian Lake.
123. Nitsitu'pi O'mfiksikimi. Lone Man
Lake. Glenns Lake.
Named for Lone Man, of the Pikuni tribe.
In his time he was the wealthiest man of the
tribe, the owner of more than five hundred
horses. His women were three very handsome
sisters, who were always beautifully clothed;
their lodge was a model of barbaric splendor
and neatness, inside and out. In the diary of
the late A. B. Hamilton, under date of December i9, 1877, written on the Marias River,
and never published, I found the following: 'A
dull, cloudy day. Nothing happened of any
importance. Traded for only twelve robes.
Lone Man punished his eldest woman for
adultery: cut off her nose.'
'79





Signposts of Adventure


124. Pi'ta-tokan' Pahwakwi'. Eagle Head
Ridge. Crossley Ridge.
From about 1850 to 1870, Eagle Head, a
member of the Pikuni tribe, was a warrior of
great renown. He twice led a large following
of friends upon raids far south, and each time
they returned with numbers of horses that
they took from the Spanish settlers.
125. Pi'ta-tokan' O'muksikimi. Eagle Head
Lake. Crossley Lake.
126. Kinuk' Oh'tokwi. Little Falls. Dawn
Mist Falls.
127. Issis'tsikwan Istuki. Fat One Mountain.
Gable Mountain.
Issis'tsikwan (Fat One) is the Blackfeet
name for the wolverine.
128. O'tatso Iye'tfiktai. Walking Stooped
Creek. Kennedy Creek.
See note under O'tatso O'muksikimi (Walking Stooped Lake).
180





In Glacier National Park


129. Nina Istfuki. Chief Mountain.
The outstanding mountain of a sharp bend
of the Rockies, this ten-thousand-feet, wallfaced mountain was most aptly named by the
Blackfeet tribes, as it has every appearance of
being the leader, the chief of a procession of
peaks encroaching upon the great plain. The
Blackfeet, and the Kutenais as well, regard it
as a sacred mountain. Youths of the Blackfeet
tribes frequently climbed to its summit, there
to fast and pray, and by a vision - dream -
obtain a sacred helper, a protector along the
dangerous trail of life.
130. pfiumi'-stfipistan. Rope Stretched across.
East Fork Lee's Creek.
The   Blackfeet  name    is  simply  Rope
Stretched across, no mention of the stream.
The reason for so naming it is no longer known.
131. Ipfimi'-stfipistan. Rope Stretched across.
Middle Fork Lee's Creek.
The two forks of the creek are distinguished
by the prefixes, east and middle.
181





Signposts of Adventure


132. IpfUmi'-stupistan. Rope Stretched across
Lee's Creek.
Has the same name as its forks.
133. Stak'tsikyi Pahwakwi'. Middle Ridge.
Lee's Ridge.
134. Mo'kwansk Iye'tuiktai. Manifold River.
Belly River (South Fork).
This river was named for a ridge of rocks
rimming its valley which has the appearance
of a huge manifold - the second, or digestive
stomach of ruminant animals.
I35. Nap'i Istufki.  Old  Man    Mountain.
SMount Cleveland.
Our council decided that this, the highest
mountain in the Park, should bear the name of
the once greatest god of the Blackfeet tribes.
The actual meaning of the word is light - the
light of breaking day. Old Man made the
world and all life upon it; he performed miracles; and at the same time was a trickster of
182





In Glacier National Park


no little cruelty. Worship of him largely declined when, several centuries ago, the Blackfeet obtained the Sun religion from more
southern tribes, perhaps the Arapahoes. Light
personified, the faint white light that gives
warning of the coming of the sun, is the supreme god of other tribes of Algonkian stock.
The Miche-Wabun (Great White Rabbit) of
the Crees, for instance, is, literally, Great
White-Light.
136. Aput'osi Mo'kwansk Iye'tufktai. North
Manifold River. North Belly River.
137. Sik'tsisu Istfiki. Moose Mountain. Goathaunt Mountain.
The literal meaning of sik'tsisu, the Blackfeet name for the moose, is 'black-going-outof-sight'; 'black-disappearing.'
138. Kutenai O'muiksikimi. Kutenai Lake.
Waterton Lake.
This fine sheet of water was Kutenai Lake,
183





Signposts of Adventure


to the Blackfeet and to the whites as well.
Waterton Lake is the name recently given it
by the Canadian Government.
139. Mok'ikini Istufki. Red Head Mountain.
Campbell Mountain.
Named for Superintendent F. C. Campbell,
of the Blackfeet Indian Reservation, Montana,
because, as Curly Bear most emphatically
says, 'He has accomplished more in teaching
us to follow the white men's trail than any
other Father [Agent] we Pikuni have ever
had.'
140. Sikopi'-utsaps Istuki. Crazy Gray Mountain. Olson Mountain.
Crazy Gray was the most noted of all the
war horses of the Blackfeet tribes. Foaled by
a mare owned by the Pikuni warrior, Bear
Head, he was stolen by the Crows when a
year old, and a year later recovered by his
owner. Bear Head then broke him to ride.
He proved to be useless as a buffalo horse, for
184





In Glacier National Park.


his temper was so fierce that, once among the
buffalo, he would become unmanageable, and
try himself to make a killing by biting the
fleeing animals. Bear Head rode him in twenty
battles with enemy tribes, and then sold him
to Black Eagle, who rode him in twelve victorious fights with the Crows, Assiniboines,
Yanktonais, and Cheyennes. When Black
Eagle died, the horse was killed at his grave so
that the shadow animal could carry its shadow
master to the Sand Hills, drear abode of the dead.
141. Natowap' Tsis-Tseksin. Lake Janet.
Ahki O'mfiksikimi Sacred Snake Woman
Lake, of the Kai'na (Blood) tribe of the Blackfeet, was the respected and loved wife of Alexander Culbertson. (See Larpenteur's 'Forty
Years a Fur-Trader on the Upper Missouri,'
for illuminating light upon the remarkable
woman, and her equally remarkable husband.)
142. Awtonaks'-Istfukists. Needle Mountains.
Citadel Peaks.
185





Signposts of Adventure
143. Otsi'nipits Istuki. Frozen One's Mountain. Kutenai Peak.
In the long-ago, a party of Kai'na (Blood)
hunters here found the frozen body of a man of
some mountain tribe.
144. Kutenai Otsitum'iso. Kutenai-WhereThey-Crossed. Kutenai Pass.
145. Itsi'tawakotsip  Kutenai. Where We
Fought the Kutenais. Kutenai Valley.
The Blackfeet tribe here had a hard fight
with the Kutenais, in about I8io, in which the
Blackfeet were the victors. The Kutenai
River, one of the branches of the South Saskatchewan, bears the same name as this valley.
146. Api Pi'ta Iye'tiktai. White Eagle Creek.
Valentine Creek.
147. Saksisokitukiks Otsitawt'simota. The
Stonies, where-they-fled-across. Jefferson Pass.
Attacked by a war party of Gros Ventre
186





In Glacier National Park


Indians, in the long-ago, a camp of Stonies, on
White Eagle Creek, abandoned their lodges
and here fled across the range, with some loss
of their number.
148. Kaiska'pi Pahwakwi'. Porcupine Ridge.
149. Utse'na Kokwito'. Entrails People Ice.
Dixon Glacier.
Entrails People is the Blackfeet name for
the Gros Ventres, as this tribe was named by
the early French traders and explorers, perhaps
by the Verendries, 1738-39. The early English travelers named them the Falls Indians.
150o. Nitai' Istfiki. Lone Mountain. The
Sentinel.
151. Mutsiawo'tan Ahki O'mfiksikimi. Fine
Shield Woman Lake. Lake Francis.
Fine Shield Woman (Mutsiawo'tan Ahki),
also called Natah'ki, was the daughter of
Black Eagle and Carrier Woman, of the Small
187





Signposts of Adventure
Robes Clan of the Pikuni. She was the writer's faithful, self-sacrificing wife, the proud
and loving mother of our artist son, Lone
Wolf. In 'My Life as an Indian,' I have tried
to do justice to her noble character. She died
in 1903.
152. Nitoh'-Kwiyi Kokwito'. Lone Wolf Ice.
Logan Glacier.
Named for my son, Hart Merriam Schultz,
by Curly Bear and Many Tail-Feathers. Lone
Wolf is not a name of the Blackfeet tribes. It
was given him by the Navajos, when, some
years ago, he was doing some sketches of them
in their Painted Desert country.
153. Kutenai' Apikwan Otsi'tfimiso. Kutenai
White Man Pass. Brown Pass.
Named for Kutenai Brown, who lived for
many years at Kutenai Lake, now Waterton
Lake. He was the only white man of our acquaintance who could speak the, to-the-whiteman, difficult Kutenai language, with its
188





In Glacier National Park


strange clickings and tongue-paralyzing aspirants.
154. Is'inamakan Istfuki. Takes-Gun-First
Mountain. Chapman Peak.
Named for Takes-Gun-First (in battle), Eli
Guardipee, as he is known to the whites. His
father was of French-Shoshone stock; his
paternal grandmother, a relative of the family
of Sacajawea, the heroine of the Lewis and
Clark Expedition. Eli's mother was also of
French-Shoshone stock. He was born in 1857,
near Fort Union, at the mouth of the Yellowstone, and with his parents and other relatives
frequently went to that post to trade. One of
his uncles, Frangois Guardipee, was killed by
the Sioux, just across the river from Fort
Union. Guardipee's Crossing, of the Saskatchewan, was named for his grandfather. When
Eli was ten years of age, his family joined
fortunes with the Blackfeet, and he himself, a
little later, became a member of the Pikuni
tribe of the Confederacy. Upon his fifteenth
189





Signposts of Adventure
birthday, his father gave him a rifle. On the
following morning, he killed an Assiniboine
with it, when a war party of that tribe attempted to drive off his father's horses. In all,
he has counted coup upon three Assiniboines,
three Crees, and a Yanktonais Sioux. In our
youthful days, Eli and I had many adventures
together in the Judith Basin country, and in
the badlands and bottoms of the Missouri, and
upon the plains running north and south of it
to the Little Rockies and the Snowy Mountains. We often recall a narrow escape that we
had one summer day, when hunting whitetail
deer in a Missouri River bottom. We entered a
large grove of cottonwoods and willows, and
were halfway through it when Eli, off to my
left about thirty yards, shot a fine buck. The
report of his rifle stampeded a herd of about a
thousand buffalo that were drinking at the
edge of the river, and they came swarming toward us. I made about three jumps into the
branches of a fallen dead cottonwood of no
great size, and Eli hugged the side of a tree that
190





In Glacier National Park


was not ten inches in diameter. On came the
frightened animals in a mad rush for the open
bottom and the breaks of the valley, crushing
the tall willows as though they were but ryegrass stalks and raising a stifling cloud of dust.
They brushed against Eli, almost tearing him
from his protecting little tree., and they snapped
off several of the branches of the tree in which
I stood, and one big bull actually knocked me
off the trunk and I was nearly trampled by
others of the herd thundering past its lower
side. And then they were gone, and we stared
at one another through the haze of the settling
dust and laughed foolishly. Together we went
on to examine Eli's buck. We shivered when
we found it: just a shapeless mass of hide and
flesh and splintered bones!
Away back in the buffalo days, when hunters
were hunters,, Guardipee was perhaps the best
shot, the most successful of them all. I once
saw him', mounted upon Kipp's iron-gray
buffalo horse Jerry, and with a.44t rimfire
Winchester carbine, kill twenty-three fat
'9'





Signposts of Adventure
buffalo cows on one run of a herd. Another
time, we raised three whitetail deer in a dense
grove of cottonwoods, and saw that they must
pass across an open space of no more than ten
feet and seventy-five yards off. As one by one
they came into it with flying leaps, Guardi-'
pee's rifle spat three times. Then we went on
and found all three deer lying close together,
each one shot through the heart!
just now I said to Curly Bear: 'What last
and best word can we say about our friend?'
'This,' he instantly replied: 'Takes-GunFirst in all his life has never told a lie. The
poor, the afflicted, have never come to him in
vain.'
155. Kai'yo Ksusi Kokwito'. Curly Bear Ice.
Hudson Glacier.
Curly Bear was born in about I185o, and at
an early age began accompanying Pikuni war
parties as pipe-bearer and servant of the Sun
priest partisans or leaders. Later on, he became the owner of the Beaver or Water
192





r7 T


C)
C). el"


*\ \


~r7..sk:
r9;~"':, ''"


-4










In Glacier National Park


'medicine' of the Blackfeet tribe, and led
many successful raids against enemy tribes.
Curly Bear's knowledge of the history of the
Blackfeet Confederacy, is far greater than that
of any other member of the Pikuni now living.
He sorrows over the ways of the present generation of his tribe: their lack of faith in the
Sun religion and the power of the various Sun
priests. He himself goes North every spring to
aid the Blackfeet Sun priests in planting the
seed of the sacred and ancient tobacco that
they use in their various sacrificial ceremonies, Nicotiana quadrivalvis, and so obtain a
share of it for his Beaver medicine. Briefly,
his account of the last planting of the sacred
seed is as follows:
'The women and children having piled
great heaps of dry brush upon the garden spot
and burned it, we Sun priests planted the-seeds
with song and prayer. We then retired to a
large double lodge in which were two fires, and,
when night came, we began praying Sun,
Thunder Bird, Ancient Beaver, Ancient Otter,
193





Signposts of Adventure


and all the other water animals, and the birds
of the water, for rain to fall at once upon our
planting. We prayed and prayed; smoked to
the gods; sang the one hundred different songs
of the sacred tobacco, and no rain came. Then,
at last, we tied two otter skins to a pole and
shoved its tip up through one of the smokeholes, and sang over and over the otter songs;
and prayed again and again. And lo! just
before daybreak, the Above Ones and the
Ancient Ones of the Water, they heard us;
they took pity upon us; they gave us a hard
rain that lasted far into the day. And with
thankful hearts we all lay down and slept. I
hear that we are to have a fine harvest of the
sacred plant. Next moon, I go North to receive my share of it.'
x56. Ahko'mfikaiyi  O'mflksikimi.  Many
Swans Lake. Lake Nooney.
Many Swans, a great Pikuni chief of the
long ago, suddenly had great desire to do that
which was and is forbidden, to see his mother'94





In Glacier National Park


in-law, to see the inside of her lodge, to see
what she did there. He resisted the obsession,
but in the end it proved too strong for him.
One evening he stole across the great camp
circle, raised a corner of the door-flap of her
lodge, and peeked in. He saw her sitting before the fire, singing happily the while she
quill-embroidered one of a pair of moccasins
that he knew she was making for her daughter
to give to him. He was terribly ashamed of
what he had done; he went back to his lodge
and became more and more distressed about
it. He decided that there was but one way for
him to recover from the terrible disgrace that
he had brought upon himself, and that was to
go to some far place and remain away from his
people for a long time. He told his woman to
pack up all their things and be ready to leave
camp in the morning. When day came, he
brought in his band of horses and the two
struck out with their lodge and all of their belongings. South they went, and, after many
days of travel, they sighted, one evening, a
'95





Signposts of Adventure


large Crow camp in a bottom of Elk River
(the Yellowstone River). Waiting until night
came., they went in close to it and set up their
lodge, staked all of their horses close around
it, and lay -down and slept.
In the early morning, when the Crows got ~
up., they were very much surprised to see a
strange lodge set up near them, and after some
talk their chief went to it., and was still more
surprised when Many Swans told him that he
was a member of the Crows' greatest enemy,
the Pikuni tribe of the Blackfeet. Said Many
Swans to him,, in the sign language, and a lie
it was:. '0 Chief! Pity me, protect me. I have
killed one of my own people, and to save my
life I have been obliged to flee from the dead
one's relatives. Allow me to live in your camp.,
to become a member of your tribe.',
The Crow chief did not hesitate about this
strange request; he at once told Many Swans
that he welcomed him, and at once to set up
his lodge right beside his own lodge. The two
of them soon became great friends. This campý
196





In Glacier National Park


that Many Swans joined was that of the
Plains Crows; the other camp of the tribe,
the Mountain Crows, was then located on the
head of the Bighorn River.
Now, sometime previous to leaving his
people, Many Swans, going one morning to
round up his horses, came suddenly upon two
Crows that were sneaking upon the band, and
with bow and arrows he killed one of them,
and the other fled with an arrow deep i i his
shoulder, and, in the thick brush and timber of
the river bottom, he managed to elude pursuit.
The summer passed, and in the Falling
Leaves moon the two Crow camps were pitched
side by side on Elk River, and Many Swans
soon learned that the Mountain Crows chief
was very jealous of his friend, the chief of the
Plains Crows. One day, during a feast and
smoke in the lodge of a Crow Sun priest, to
which Many Swans had been invited, the
Mountain Crows chief boasted that he had
counted a greater coup than any man of either
of the two camps. He and his war partner, he
197





Signposts of Adventuresaid, had been attacked by a large war party
of Pikuni, who at once killed his companion,
but he himself, fighting them, had killed four
of their number, and at last had been forced to
run from them, as they had put an arrow into
his shoulder, and there was the arrow to prove
it. With that he laid the arrow upon the
ground before the fire, where all present couldsee it.
Many Swans saw it, instantly recognized
his own arrow, and shouted to his woman to
bring. his bow-case and quiver of arrows. When
it was handed to him, he proved that the arrow
the Mountain Crow exhibited was actually his
own arrow. There could be no doubt about
it, for it had the identical private mark that
was upon all the arrows that he took from his
quiver. And he then went on to tell, in the sign
language, that he had come upon this Mountain Crow chief and another Crow, attempting
to steal his band of horses, and that he had
killed the companion, and this other, wounded.
in the shoulder, the arrow sticking in it, had
198





In Glacier National Park


managed to get away in the near-by heavy
timber.
At that, the Plains Crow chief, and all the
great warriors assembled there in that lodge,
sprang upon the Mountain Crow chief and
dragged him outside, and there beat him, tore
his hair, and told him that he was a coward
and a liar. So was it that they punished him
for counting a false coup. And then his
women deserted him, after destroying his
lodge, and from that day he was an outcast,
a beggar so long as he lived.
From that time, Many Swans and the Plains
Crow chief were closer friends than ever, and,
at last, Many Swans told him that he had come
to his camp with a lie upon his lips: he had
killed none of his people, but had fled from
them because he had shamelessly looked in
upon his mother-in-law in her lodge.
Said the Crow   chief: 'My friend, your
mother-in-law will overlook that; she will forgive you your error. I see that you are homesick, that you long to return to your people.
199





Signposts of Adventure


Go, then, and take with you my pipe and
tobacco, and tell the chiefs of all of your
Blackfeet tribes that I ask them to smoke
with me, and meet me, next summer, at the
foot of the Snowy Mountains, and there make
a treaty of peace with me. Now, what say
you to that?'
'You have spoken my very own thought.
Now, as to the time, I propose that we all
meet at that place in the first moon of the
mating of the buffalo, when the bulls begin
roaring and pawing the ground, and rushing
about from herd to herd.'
The Crow chief agreed to that. Many
Swans returned to his people. In the following
summer at the appointed time, the Blackfeet,
Bloods, Pikuni, Saksis, and Gros Ventres, and
the Crow tribes, all camped together at the
foot of the Snowy Mountains, and there made
a treaty of peace that lasted for several winters. But, of course, at last, as with every
other treaty of peace, the young men broke it,
and again there was war between the Blackzoo





In Glacier National Park


feet tribes and the two Crow tribes: war that
endured until the whites exterminated the
buffalo, and so brought an end to our free life
upon the plains.
157. Nistsim'i O'mtiksikimiks. Twin Lakes.
North Lakes.
i58. Piksi' Ahwtina O'mfiksikimi. Bird Rattle
Lake. Lake Wurdeman.
Bird Rattle was a long-ago Pikuni warrior.
He counted his greatest coup as follows: When
out hunting, one day, with his woman and
little son, he discovered a large war party of
Crows chasing a small band of buffalo. They
killed one of the animals, and, taking the meat,
went into camp in a small grove of timber
on Two Medicine Lodges River. Bird Rattle
watched them build little fires, and roast and
eat the meat, and at last lie down and sleep.
He then drove all of their horses to the place
where his woman and child awaited him, and,
h~aving them_againmo~unted and herdingsthe
201





Signposts of Adventure
animals, he went back and shot two of the
Crows, and then, with his two helpers, drove
the fine band home. On the following morning
he led a large party in search of the enemy, but
they found only the two of them that he had
killed.
159. Inus'pi Istfiki. Long Hair Mountain.
Mount Custer.
The Blackfeet never saw General Custer,
but they heard much about him from other
tribes. The Sioux and the Cheyennes, on three
different occasions, sent messengers to the
Pikuni and the Kai'na, asking their aid in
fighting the Long Hair chief and his many
soldiers, but they asked in vain.
16o. Nitoh' Kai'yo Kokwito'. Lone Bear
Ice. Herbst Glacier.
Our council enthusiastically declared that
this ice-sheet should be named for their generous friend of many years, Nitoh' Kai'yo, as
they named Charles Phelan, of Chicago. Sumz20oZ





In Glacier National Park
mer after summer he and his wife visit the
Pikuni, and are helpful to them in their not
easy task to follow the white men's trail.
161. Paio'taki O'mfiksikimi. Flying Woman
Lake.
Our council decided that this lake should be
named for their good friend, Mrs. Charles
Phelan, who they long ago named after a
famous woman of the Pikuni, a sacred-lodge
builder, Paio'taki (Flying Woman).





III
KUTENAI INDIAN NAMES OF THE TOPOGRAPHICAL FEATURES OF THE WEST SIDE OF
GLACIER NATIONAL PARK, FROM ITS
SOUTHERN BOUNDARY NORTH TO
THE CANADIAN LINE
THESE names were furnished us by John Star
and other members of the North Branch of
the Kutenai tribe, now residing in Flagstone,
British Columbia. This section of the Rockies
was, in the long-ago, their favorite huntingground. Upon visiting and questioning members of the South Kutenais, residing upon the
Flathead Indian Reservation, in Montana, we
found, to our great surprise, that they could
not aid us in this work, for the reason that
neither they nor their fathers for several
generations back, had camped and hunted
north of the Two Medicine Lodges River Pass
(Marias Pass) of the mountains. In common
with the various tribes of the Salish stock, they
204





In Glacier National Park
had obtained their livelihood in the mountains
from the pass south to the Yellowstone.
Unlike the Blackfeet tribes' names of the
east-side features of the Park, there is little of
romantic interest attached to these Kutenai,
west-side names, with the exception of the
names of various glaciers. They are, for the
most part, simply the names of men of the
tribe who were successful hunters, or 'magicians.' The Kutenais were not warriors; their
coups were the killings of grizzly bears. They
were a timid people, passing their lives in the
remote fastnesses of the mountains.
i. A'nan Ahkowokalet'. Magpie Mountain.
Blacktail Hills.
2. Tiah'kat Ahkowokalet'. Broken Straw
Mountain.
3. Nuk'sahk Ahkowokalet'. Martin Mountain. Mount Shields.
4. Kanu-us'tsaota Ahkowokalet'. Red Bear
Mountain. Snowslip-Mountain.
205





Signposts of Adventure
5. Nokstokuk'wim  Ahkowokalet'. White
Crow  Mountain.   Running Rabbit
Mountain.
6. Kahnukiu'ko Ahkin'mitok.  Buckskin
Creek. Ole Creek.
7. Kokokfit'ah Ahkowokalet'. One Lodge
Mountain. Scalplock Mountain.
8. Kahkam'in Ahkin'mit6k. Far Buffalo
Creek. Park Creek.
9. Nut'ka Ahkin'mitok. Liar River. Flathead River.
So named for the reason that, in certain of
its stretches, the river frequently changes its
channel.
10. Maitiknai'na Ahkowokalet'. Small Weasel Mountain. Rampage Mountain.
II. Su'okfin  Ahkowokalet'.  Good  Nose
Mountain. Soldier Mountain.
206





In Glacier National Park


12. Tahkat'in Ahkowokalet'. Has Gloves
Mountain. Sheep Mountain.
13. Kos'kaahksfiman  Ahkowokalet'.  Big
Knife Mountain. Little Dog Mountain.
14. Kfitowat'Ahkowokalet'. Gambler Mountain. Skeleton Mountain.
15. Ahmakit'awtan Ahkowokalet'. Ground
Bear Mountain. Barrier Buttes.
I6. Nupka-ah'min. Sacred Ground. Lost
Basin.
17. KokwunokTh'na Ahkin'mit6k. Sacred
Rock Creek. Debris Creek.
18. Tsan'ta Ahkowokalet'. Arrow In Ground
Mountain. Pompey's Pillar.
19. Ku-ufska Tsao'tan. Ahkowokalet'. Big
Bear Mountain. Grizzly Mountain.
207





Signposts of Adventure
20. Kukmin'ska Ahkowokalet'. Crazy Mountain. Statuary Mountain.
21. Kiah'kats Ahkowokalet'. Broken Leg
Mountain. Salvage Mountain.
22. Kfitsani'taniku  Ahkowokalet'. Three
Moons Mountain. Church Butte.
23. Tiasko'pi Ahkin'mitok.  Two   Owls
Creek. Muir Creek.
24. Ik'itan Ahkowokalet'. Patches of Hair
Mountain. Riverview Mountain.
25. Kupfinka'mint Ahkowokalet'. Shakes
Himself Mountain. Double Mountain.
26. Kahsikwo'an Ahkowokalet'. Two Feathers Mountain. Mount St. Nicholas.
27. Kutwiak Tsao'tan Ahkowokalet'. Left
Bear Mountain. Battlement Mountain.
208





In Glacier National Park


28. Tsao'ta Kah'sin Ahkowokalet'. Bear
Dog Mountain. Mount Despair.
29. Ahwakah'nuk Ahkowokalet'. Cut-hisThroat Mountain. Vigil Peak.
30. Kukipaskin' Ahkok'nufk. Lone Woman
Lake. Lake Isabel.
31. K'ni^kah'ota Ahkowokalet'. Sacred Gun
Mountain. Caper Peak.
32. Ikutskots' Ahkok'nflk. Small Woman
Lake. Aurice Lake.
33. Nitsiksah'man Ahkin'mitok. Bull Robe
River. Coal Creek.
34. Sinahkaiu'kwa Ahkin'mit6k. Beaver Hat
Creek. Elk Creek.
35. Nihtsikakotsu'ka Ahkowokalet'.  Bull
Feather Mountain. Mount Doody.
209





Signposts of Adventure


36. K'sawo'ta Ahkowokalet'.
tain. Cloudcroft Peak.


Bear Moun

37. Skin'kut Ahmin.
woody Basin.
38. K'tata'ostananan
Bear Mountain.


Coyote Basin. DunAhkowokalet'. Little
Wolftail Mountain.


39. Kahtim'ahkat Ahkin'mit6k.
River. North Fork.


Wolftail


40. Kowiste' Ahkin'mitok.
Peril Creek.
41. Nah'kin Ahkowokalet'.
Threetops Mountain.


Big Horn River.
Fox Mountain.


42. Kahkin'ahkitska Ahkin'mit6k.
Finger River. Nyack Creek.


Wolf


43. Kokin' Ahkok'nfik. Crow Lake. Half
Moon Lake.
21O





In Glacier National Park


44. Kahkinka'wo Ahkowokalet'. Wolf Gun
Mountain. Loneman Mountain.
45. Kakinahk'sam Ahkowokalet'. Wolf Head
Mountain. Eaglehead Mountain.
46. Kowisk'wat Ahkowokalet'.  Big  Ear
Mountain. Peril Peak.
47. Kokin'okwuto'man Ahkwaiswil'ko.
Thirsty Woman Ice. Lupfer Glacier.
48. Kisuh'sin Ahkowokalet'. Elk Mountain.
Mount Helen.
49. Inuksina Otsitfumiso (Blackfeet name).
Little  Chief When-he-Crossed-over.
Dawson Pass.
This pass was most appropriately named foi
the man who made it passable: Thomas Dawson, son of Andrew Dawson, last Factor of the
American Fur Company at Fort Benton.
211





Signposts of Adventure
50. Ko'tahk  Ahkowokalet'.   Long   Arm
Mountain. Mount Phillips.
51. Kotswe'kim. Tickling Ground. Martha's
Basin.
52. Surprise Pass.
This pass is a surprise to me. I have traveled
both sides of the Range for the past fifty
years or so, but I never knew this pass.
53. Kanu-fisswi'yit Ahkowokalet'. Red Sky
Mountain. Three Suns Mountain.
The name that the Geological Survey gives
this mountain, Three Suns, is not at all appropriate, for the reason that Three Suns was a
great chief of the Pikuni tribe of the Blackfeet
Confederacy.
54. Kokinim' Ahkowokalet'. Fisher Mountain. Mount Pinchot.
55. Katsku'ta Ahkowokalet'. Flint Lodge
Mountain. Mount Stimson.
212





In Glacier National Park
56. Ahkao'whats   Ahkowokalet'.  Otter
Mountain. Mount Morgan.
57. Nitsta'hahn Ahkowokalet'. Young Man
Mountain. Camel's Hump.
58. Kantsupskanok'im Ahkowokalet'. Running  Fox  Mountain. Razor-Edge
Mountain.
59. Mekotsi'pitan Otsitufmiso. Red Eagle
Where-he-Crossed. Red Eagle Pass.
60. Kahk-kitaha'kii Ahkin'mitok. Stabbed
Inside Creek. Thompson Creek.
61. Kitis'sahk Ahkowokalet'. Straight Legs
Mountain. Mount Thompson.
62. Kwishukaht Ahkin'mit6k. Large Ribs
Creek. Harrison Creek.
63. Kwishukaht Ahkok'nfik. Large Ribs
Lake. Harrison Lake.
213





Signposts of Adventure
64. Sinaahk'si Ahkin'mit6k. Beaver Foot
Creek. Walton Creek.
65. Sinaahk'si Ahkowokalet'. Beaver Foot
Mountain. Walton Mountain.
66. Kaintsao'tan Ahkwaiswil'ko. No Bear
Ice. Pumpelly Glacier.
67. Kotopchi Ahkwaiswil'ko. Old Man's
Daughter's Ice. Harrison Glacier.
68. Konits Ahk6k'nufk. Equal Lake. Little
Saint Mary's Lake.
69. Kwishatsaik  Ahkowokalet'.   Greedy
Mountain. Lincoln Peak.
70. Kitsimah' Ahk6k'nuik. Handling Bones
Lake. Lake Ellen Wilson.
71. Miskotowom Ahkwaiswil'ko. Blossom of
Wild Rhubarb Ice. Sperry Glacier.
214





In Glacier National Park


72. Kahspituk Ahkowokalet'. Crane Mountain. Edwards Mountain.
73. Kahspitukah'na  Ahkin'mit6k.  Crane
Collar Creek. Little Saint Mary's
Creek.
74. Tahksistik Ahkowokalet'. Spotted Foot
Mountains. Belton Hills.
75. Tapsut'otwuk'o  Ahkowokalet'.  EarFastened-to-Skin Mountain. Snyder
Mountain.
76. Yakolawilnamki  Ahkok'nfik.  Sacred
Dancing Lake. Lake McDonald.
It was so named in the long-ago because
every summer the tribes gathered there to have
their annual religious ceremonies.
77. Yakolawilnamki Ahkin'mit6k. Sacred
Dancing River. McDonald Creek.
78. Kahkinkaiu'kwa  Ahkowokalet'. Wolf
Hat Mountain. Mount Brown.
215





Signposts of Adventure
79. Tapsut'otwuk'o Ahk6k'nik. Ear-Fastened-to-Skin Lake. Snyder Lake.
80. Sinahahk'tam Ahk6k'nuik. Beaver Head
Lake. Avalanche Lake.
81. Sinahahk'tam  Ahkin'mit6k.  Beaver
Head Creek. Avalanche Creek.
82. Sinahahk'tam. Beaver Head    Basin.
Avalanche Basin.
83. K'sa wotakaiu'kwa Ahkok'nufk. Bear
Hat Lake. Hidden Lake.
84. Nuuk'anatsa tsin Ahkowokalet'. Old
Man Dog Mountain. Mount Cannon.
85. Kahhuwustoposka'na Ahkowokalet'. Red
Bird Mountain. Heaven's Peak.
86. Ahkwaiswil'ko. Glacier Wall.
87. Uskun'an Ahkowokalet'. Crossing-overVictor Mountain. McPartland Mountain.
216





X355ve


RED BIRD MOUNTAIN










In Glacier National Park


88. Koskanawh'kana   Ahkowokalet'.  Big
Old Man Mountain. Mount Vaught.
89. Inmut-too-yah-lat-lat Ahkowokalet'.
Thunder - Traveling - over - the - Mountains. Stanton Mountain.
This mountain was named for that wonderful old Nez Perces leader, Chief Joseph.
90. Camas Ahkin'mitok. Camas Creek.
91. Kahkwuttiah'win Ahkok'nuik. Traders'
Lake. Rogers Lake.
92. Kahkwuttiah'win Ahkowokalet'. Traders' Mountain. Rogers Peak.
93. Kasahk'uttet Ahkok'nufk. Spotted Lake.
Trout Lake.
94. Camas Ahkowokalet'. Camas Mountain.
Camas Ridge.
95. Kapa-akokinok-kuni Ahk6k'nufk. Small
Camas Lake. Arrow Lake.
217





Signposts of Adventure


96. Camas Ahkok'nuk. Camas Lake.
97. Skinkatpaskin' Ahkowokalet'. Coyote
Woman Mountain. Longfellow Peak.
98. Kum'sakahmamhan Ahkok'nfik. Shells
Woman Lake. Lake Evangeline.
99. Skinkotpaskin' Ahkin'mitok.  Coyote
Woman Creek. Longfellow Creek.
Ioo. Yakilkana-ik-hakaki-kalahagin  Ahkowokalet'. Kicking Horse Mountain.
Anaconda Peak.
toI. Yakilwilkaki-sina Ahkok'nuik. Big Beaver Lake. Logging Lake.
So named for the reason that in the long-ago
a beaver was found there about twenty feet in
length.
102. Yakilwilkaki-sina Ahkowokalet'.  Big
Beaver Mountain.   Logging Mountain.
218





In Glacier National Park
103. Hakhastsa'man Ahkok'nfk. Skunk Robe
Lake. Grace Lake.
104. Kakannanusk'a Ahkowokalet'. Chasedin-Woods Mountain. Mount Geduhn.
105. Nui'ma Ahkowokalet'. Thunder Mountain. Trapper Peak.
o16. Aklumis-womal Ahkok'nufk. Head of
Rhubarb Lake. Quartz Lake.
107. Yakilwokaki-womal Ahk6k'nuk. Long
Rhubarb Lake. Lower Quartz Lake.
o08. Akokala  Ahkok'nuk.  Rotten  Lake.
Bowman Lake.
109. Nahsu'kin Ahkwaiswil'ko. Chief Glacier.
Vulture Glacier.
Iio. Nahsu'kin Ahkowokalet'. Chief Mountain. Vulture Mountain.
219





Signposts of Adventure


iII. Ahkknuksutam Ahkowokalet'. Gyr Falcon Mountain. Carnelian Cliff.
112. Kamkwosk'si Ahkowokalet'. Red Horn
Mountain. Bighorn Peak.
113. Nuwoka'iukwa Ahkok'nfik. Black Bear
Hat Lake. Cerulean Lake.
I14. Ahkokwatka'kin Ahkwaiswil'ko. Otter
Woman Ice. Rainbow Glacier.
I15. Maiiikah'na Ahkowokalet'. Weasel Collar Mountain. Mount Carter.
116. Nuwoka'iukwa Ahkowokalet'. Black
Bear Hat Mountain. Cerulean Ridge.
117. Kamkanuknus'sak Ahkowokalet'. Sitting  Porcupine Mountain.   Square
Peak.
n8. Maiukah'na Ahkwaiswil'ko. Weasel Collar Glacier. Carter Glaciers.
220





In Glacier National Park
119. Ahkokwatka'kin Ahkowokalet'. Otter
Woman Mountain. Rainbow Peak.
120. Yakilwilkokoka  Ahkin'mitok.   Big
Strawberries River, Bowman Creek.
I21. Kahkaswin' Ahkwaiswil'ko. Stilts Glacier. Boulder Glacier.
i22. Hole-in-the-Wall Falls.


123. Kahkaswin' Ahkowokalet'.
tain. Boulder Peak.
124. Kahtwhom Ahk6k'nuk.
Lake. Pocket Lake.


Stilts MounBroad Body


125. Kahkawiskiu'tahk Ahkowokalet'. BackComing-in-Sight Mountain. Gardner
Peak.
I26. Kawfispah'tin Ahkin'mitok. Red Woman River. Agassiz Creek.
221





Signposts of Adventure


127. Kintla-Nuna Ahkok'nfik. Little Sack
Lake. Upper Kintla Lake.
128. Kintla Ahkin'mitok. Sack River. Kintla
Creek.
129. Tsikkaputniket' Ahkowokalet'.  Deaf
Mountain. Kinnerly Peak.
130. Kintla Ahkowokalet'. Sack Mountain.
Kintla Peak.
131. Yakilwokakitawo Ahkwaiswil'ko. Long
Bow Ice. Harris Glacier.
According to the legend, years ago there was
a giant man named Red Medicine. Traveling
one day by this glacier, he found a long bow;
hence its name.
132. Ahkako'was Ahkowokalet'. Green Mountain. Parke Peak.
133. Kintla Ahkwaiswil'ko. Sack Glacier.
Kintla Glacier.
222





In Glacier National Park


134. Kawfispah'tin Ahkwaiswil'ko. Red Woman Glacier. Agassiz Glacier.
135. Kiwakastamak'an Ahkowokalet'. Coming-on-Top-Victor Mountain. Mount
Peabody.
136. Atski-yakila-achiki   Ahkwaiswil'ko.
Ice -where -the- Goats'- Children - Play
Glacier. Baby Glacier.
In former days the Kutenai Indians slid
down this glacier at the time they were having
their annual religious ceremony at Sacred
Dancing Lake.
137. Unahtwaku'tek Ahkowokalet'. TookMany-Guns Mountain. Reuter Peak.
138. Kintla Ahkok'nfik. Sack Lake. Kintla
Lake.
139. Ahkako'was Ahkowokalet'. Green Mountains. Parke Ridge.
140. Kintla Nuna Ahkin'mitok. Little Sack
River. Ford Creek.
223





Signposts of Adventure
141. Akokala Ahk6k'nfik. Rotten Lake. Indian Lake.
142. Akokala Ahkin'mit6k. Rotten River.
Indian Creek.
143. Akokala Ahkowokalet'. Rotten Mountain. Indian Mountain.
144. Tepee Flat.
145. Yakilwokaki Ahkowokalet'. Long Rhubarb Mountain. Quartz Ridge.
146. Yakilwokaki Ahkin'mitok. Long Rhubarb River. Quartz Creek.
147. Yakilwilkaki Ahkin'mit6k. Big Beaver
River. Logging Creek.
148. Pas'kin Ahkowokalet'. Woman Mountain. Adair Ridge.
149. Kintla Ahkowokalet'. Sack Mountain.
Starvation Ridge.
224





In Glacier National Park


I50. Inuk'ahkionspa'na  Ahkok'nfik.  Lost
Rider Lake. Howe Lake.
151. Inuk'ahki6nspa'na Ahkowokalet'. Lost
Rider Mountain. Howe Ridge.
152. Kol-woma-kinowonok Ahkok'nuik. Big
Belly Man Lake. Dutch Lakes.
In the long-ago a giant cut a trail to this
place. He had a tremendous belly, and when
his enemies would shoot at him, even at close
range, they could not hurt him, for he was too
large to feel the effect of their arrows. He was
a medicine man.
153. Kol-woma-kinowonok    Ahkowokalet'.
Big Belly Man Mountain. Dutch
Ridge.


THE END










S  a o s
GLACIER       NATIONAL        PARK                         ^     /-   '   ^^
^cSIGNPOSTS      Or ADVENTURE9                         X    ^    y     ^                            7
BY JAME'S WII-LARD SCHULTZ                         VYf/         /^    ^l
Drawn by Charles R Berry, \Ws.  The numbers refer to lists of       J    VSl  ~i~^\          "^    ^
Cf-rm  thip ritvvwrrtort  Man  India  plce  narie  In hebo   f\\             ^c'^*" ^/'^  \ '' --
and Data furnished  by author,  to the Blackfeet list. those, within  >   / ~ -?e  /^  /:} c -
broken  lines to th  e uenai list.  ^.  /--/ ^ ^ ^'   *ia3tfi   *^
130,L
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